Frommer's Vienna Day by Day (Frommer's Day by Day - Pocket) [1 Pap/Map ed.] 0470715561, 9780470715567

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Frommer’s

™

Vienna

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™

BY

20 Smart Ways to See the City

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Vienna

day day BY

1st Edition

by Teresa Fisher

A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication

™

Contents 14 Favorite Moments

1

1 The Best Full-Day Tours

7

The Best of Vienna in One Day 8 The Best of Vienna in Two Days 14 The Best of Vienna in Three Days 20

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours Imperial Vienna 26 Jugendstil Vienna 32 City of Music 36 Kids’ Vienna 42 Jewish Vienna 46 ‘The Third Man’ in Vienna Best Churches 52 The Ringstrasse 56

50

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks Stephansdom District 62 The Belvedere 66 Schottenring & Alsergrund 70 The MuseumsQuartier (MQ) 74

4 The Best Shopping

79

Shopping Best Bets 80 Vienna Shopping A to Z 85

5 The Great Outdoors Stadtpark 94 Prater 96 The Danube 100 Grinzing 102 Schönbrunn 104

25

93

61

6 The Best Dining

109

Dining Best Bets 110 Vienna Dining A to Z 116

7 The Best Nightlife

123

Nightlife Best Bets 124 Vienna Nightlife A to Z 129

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 134 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 137

9 The Best Lodging

141

Lodging Best Bets 142 Vienna Lodging A to Z 148

The Savvy Traveler

155

Before You Go 156 Getting There 159 Getting Around 160 Fast Facts 161 Vienna: A Brief History 167 Vienna’s Art & Architecture 170 Useful Words & Phrases 172

Index

174

133

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777 Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): [email protected]. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6-10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to [email protected], or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. UK Publisher: Sally Smith Executive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey Commissioning Editor: Mark Henshall Development Editor: Lindsay Hunt Project Editor: Hannah Clement Photo Research: Jill Emeny Cartographer: Tim Lohnes Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-470-71556-7 Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in China by RR Donnelley 54321

A Note from the Editorial Director Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Would you like to wind back the clock to Imperial times at the Hofburg, visit Mozart’s house, cruise the Blue Danube or admire Lipizzaner horses strutting to Waltz music? Or catch a tram along epic Viennesse boulevards and visit the Prater ferris wheel of Vienna’s cult movie, The Third Man? Hoping to sample some of Viennese legendary coffee houses or snack on a large Wiener schnitzel? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides

About the Author Freelance travel writer and photographer Teresa Fisher has been a regular visitor to Vienna for over 25 years, lured by the art and architecture, the coffee houses and especially the city’s rich musical heritage. Although this is her first book for Frommer’s, she has authored more than twenty guidebooks for a variety of publishers (including Thomas Cook, Lonely Planet and the AA). A fluent German speaker, a music graduate and a specialist in European city breaks, Teresa was the obvious choice to write Vienna Day by Day.

Acknowledgments To Angelika Grzebyta and Margot Neugebauer at WienTourismus for patiently answering my endless queries; to my two sons, George and Timothy, for showing me how child-friendly and fun the city is by day, and to Carl for baby-sitting by night; and finally to Mark, Jill and Hannah at Frommer’s for all their support and help.

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a starrating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee cup–shaped bullet .

=

P

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers. com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree (main meal) at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotels under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

Restaurants under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–$40 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Vienna Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-577

14 Favorite Moments

Dr..-K K.-Renn e er Ring

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Vo lks ga rte ns tr.

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Ballhausplatz

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e

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Justizministerium

Volksgarten

tr. rs ne all W asse eng Herr

Schmerlingplatz

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Bo g Na ner ga gl s er ga s ss e 6b

HERRENGASSE U

Minoriten- Minoritenkirche platz

. lstr we

sttr. Auers

arlament Parlament

Burgtheater Burgtheate

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ngasse

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14 Favorite Moments gass ic enburg Wick

14 Favorite Moments

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ike a catchy waltz tune, Vienna makes my heart beat faster. Much more than Mozart and museums, this stately city is constantly reinventing itself. Modern art and vibrant nightlife are as much part of the Vienna of today as the grand concert halls and baroque architecture of its imperial heyday. Amid the pomp and splendor of its stately parks and palaces drifts an air of romance and easy living—a seductive charm at once relaxing yet compelling.

1 Admire the discipline and control of the Spanish Riding School, as meticulously schooled Lipizzaner horses strut and pirouette to waltz music. Nothing can match a full performance, but if you can’t get tickets, watch the informal morning exercises instead. Not all the classic moves, such as the croupade, the levade, or the capriole, are practiced every day, but, if you’re lucky, you should certainly witness some startling equine ballet. See p 44, bullet 5.

2

Crack the code of the coffee menu at one of the city’s legendary Kaffeehäuser. Viennese coffee houses range from basic, boho and nicotine-stained to the sophisticated fin-de-siècle grandeur of my favorite, Café Sperl. Many have long literary associations. Coffee-drinking is virtually an art form in Vienna: choose a Melange (coffee

Vienna’s vineyards are just a short tram ride away.

with frothy milk); a kleiner or grosser Brauner (large or small coffee with cream); an Einspänner (mocha with whipped cream); a Fiaker (mocha

Kids large and small love to ride the Riesenrad.

5

14 Favorite Moments

with brandy)... the list goes on. See The Best Dining, p 109.

3 Wind back the clocks to imperial times at the Hofburg and see how the 19th-century Habsburg Empress Sisi, darling of Viennese society, lived in these grandiose palace apartments. Discover how all that glittered was not gold for Vienna’s own ‘Princess Diana’ figure, whose tragic life came to an abrupt end in 1898. See p 29, bullet 5.

4

Tuck into the largest Wiener schnitzel in the world at Figlmüller. This tiny, pseudo-rustique restaurant is always crowded and a bit touristy. But who cares when the legendary schnitzels are so big that they overlap the plates? They taste pretty good too, washed down with a G’spritzter (white wine spritzer). Be prepared to queue. See p 10, bullet .

2

5 Take photos from the top of the Prater ferris wheel. Aerial views of the city and the Vienna Woods beyond are especially enticing at sunset, when the city glows in mellow evening light and lamps begin to twinkle. You can also relive the key scene in Vienna’s cult movie, The Third Man, when the two antiheroes finally meet on the wheel. See p 98, bullet 4.

6 Indulge in some serious retail therapy in the shops of Graben, Kohlmarkt, and Kärtnerstrasse. Take the pulse of the city’s young fashion designers in the trendy Neubau district; gather home-furnishing ideas at the MAK (the Museum of Applied Arts) boutique; then shop for a picnic at the bustling Naschmarkt, where the photogenic food stalls are a feast for the senses. See The Best Shopping, p 79.

7 Stroll through the Vienna Woods and taste some local wines. Few of the world’s capitals grow wine within the city limits. A visit to some of the cozy Heurigen

Tour the Ringstrasse on tram 1 or 2.

(wine taverns) in the romantic winegrowing villages on Vienna’s outskirts always makes an enjoyable excursion. Take your camera to capture stunning views over Vienna from the vine-striped hills. See The Great Outdoors, p 93.

8

Forget the calories and enjoy “Kuchen mit Schlag” at Café Sacher. Vienna is cake-andwhipped-cream heaven. It’s hard to stick to the straight and narrow when confronted by a formidable choice of gooey gâteaux. Some of my favorite cakes are the ones called Mozart, Esterhazy, Imperial, and Klimt. Then there’s a divine specialty known as Mohr im Hemd (warm chocolate cake with fudge sauce) and of course the ubiquitous Apfelstrudel (apple strudel). If you can manage only one cake during your stay, make it the city’s most famous indulgence—the irresistible chocolate Sachertorte. See The Best Restaurants, p 109.

9 Take a tram-ride round the Ringstrasse. Catch Tram numbers 1 or 2 for a complete circuit of the epic boulevard surrounding the

14 Favorite Moments

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medieval city, trundling past a monumental assortment of palaces, parliament buildings, and grand hotels. See The Ringstrasse tour, p 56.

0 Soak up the magical atmosphere of the Christmas markets. Search for Christmas goodies, decorations, and beautifully carved cribs amid a winter wonderland of twinkling trees and snow-capped wooden huts. After buying your stockingfillers, gather round the fireside for carols, Glühwein, and warm gingerbread. The main Christmas market takes place at Rathaus-Platz. See p 60, bullet 7.

! Get lost in the maze of the Schönbrunn Palace. Join the Viennese in one of their favorite pastimes—strolling in the Schönbrunn’s magnificent formal gardens. This massive park is larger than the Principality of Monaco. Don’t miss the zoo, tucked in one corner, with its adorable twin polar bears and panda; and Maria Theresa’s grand apartments inside the palace. See p 108, bullet 5.

@ Party until the small hours at the nightspots under the arches

of the U6 U-Bahn tracks and Gürtel highway. As the trains roll overhead, enjoy the latest sounds from international DJs and top bands, including the very best in ‘Viennese electronica’. End the night snacking on sausages from a streetside Wiener Würstelstand. See The Gürtel Party tour, p 131.

# Swim in the not-so “Blue Danube” and chill out on the beach. Yes... there really is a beach in Vienna, and in summer it’s packed with sunbathers, swimmers, and watersports fanatics. If you’d rather be on the water than in it, take a mini-cruise along the river. See The Great Outdoors, p 93. $ Pay homage to Vienna’s musical Wunderkind. Visit Mozart’s house and hear his works at the celebrated Musikverein. Wherever you go in Vienna, you’ll hear the strains of classical music emerging from open windows. Besides Mozart, Vienna was home to Haydn, Beethoven, Schubert, the Strausses, and many other musicians through the centuries. See p 12 and 13, bullets 4 & 7.

Johann Strauss—the most celebrated statue in town.

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The Best Full-Day Tours

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here better to start exploring Vienna than at its historic heart? On this tour you can soak up the atmosphere of imperial Vienna; admire the Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral and national emblem of Austria); tuck into the finest schnitzels in town; and take a reverential peep inside Mozart’s only surviving Viennese home . . . all in a single day. START: Hofburg (U-Bahn 3 Herrengasse).

1 ★★★ Hofburg. Home to the powerful Habsburg dynasty which ruled Austria for six centuries, the grandiose Hofburg buildings are a remarkable long-term record of Viennese lifestyle and architecture. Don’t be put off by the daunting tally of 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600 rooms. This rambling complex has been manageably packaged into neat clusters of attractions. The Sisi Museum vividly portrays the moving life of Vienna’s beloved empress, Elisabeth of Bavaria (1837–98). The Imperial Apartments include the study, waiting room, and audience room of Sisi’s husband, the Emperor Franz Joseph I (1848–1916). Sisi’s exercise room contains some surprisingly modern gym apparatus. The Hofburg’s first bathroom (which wasn’t installed until 1876) featured the latest rage—a linoleum floor, while its tiny tiled closet was considered the last word in luxury at the time. Elsewhere within the vast Hofburg The Hofburg’s central courtyard.

complex, make sure you don’t miss the Schatzkammer (Treasury), a glittering hoard of Habsburg jewels amassed over more than a millennium, and the celebrated Spanische Reitschule (Spanish Riding School), where magnificent and beautiful Lipizzaner stallions cavort to Viennese waltz music. @ 1–4 hr. Hofburg.

www.hofburg-wien.at. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). See p 28–31 and p 44, bullet 5.

2

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★★★ Figlmüller. Don’t miss this cozy little restaurant, tucked down a narrow arcade. It’s much visited by tourists and often very crowded, but it reputedly serves the best schnitzels in Vienna, bigger than a dinner-plate. These are traditionally accompanied by a mixed salad and wine from the owner’s own vineyard in Grinzing (see p 103). Booking is essential.

Wollzeile 5. y 01 512 6177. $$.

11

The eccentric, reclusive, and beautiful Empress ‘Sisi’ was born Elisabeth, Duchess of Bavaria, in 1837. At the tender age of 15, she agreed to marry her cousin, Franz Joseph of Austria, and took up residence in the Hofburg. Thrust unwillingly into the public eye, she hated imperial life and declined to fulfill the traditional roles of empress, wife, and mother. Her eldest child died aged two, and her fourth child committed suicide. She eventually became estranged from her husband, wrote increasingly melancholic poetry, and travelled incessantly. In 1885 she wrote: ‘I am a seagull, of no land, I call no shore my home, I am bound to no place, I fly from wave to wave.’ She was assassinated in Geneva in 1898 by an Italian anarchist, who later remarked: ‘I wanted to kill a royal. It did not matter which one.’

3 ★★ Stephansdom. The Vien-

the correct size for a loaf of bread.

nese affectionately call their majestic cathedral the ‘Steffl’. Dominating the city center, its skeletal spire towers 137m above the rooftops. Literally and figuratively, it represents a high point in Viennese Gothic architecture. The cathedral is now a national emblem. Its graceful pillars and lofty ribbed vaulting were described by architect Adolf Loos as ‘the most spiritual church interior in the world’. Take the elevator (and your camera) up the north tower for exceptional views of the city center and the cathedral’s eye-catching yellow, blue, and green rooftop, which, consists of a quarter of a million brilliantly glazed tiles. The Stephansdom’s ‘Pummerin’ (Boomer) bell is Austria’s largest and heaviest. It is used just once annually—to ring in the New Year. Beethoven discovered the totality of his deafness when he realized he could no longer hear the bells. The square in front of the cathedral was once a marketplace. Medieval measuring marks are still visible in the masonry by the main west entrance. Two are ancient measures of length (the shorter ‘Bohemian’ and the longer ‘Viennese’ ell), while another indicates

@ 1hr; go early on weekdays or

during the evening to avoid the tour groups. Stephansplatz 3. y 01 515 52 3520. www.stephanskirche. at. Free admission. Mon–Sat 6am– 10pm, Sun 7am–10pm. Elevator daily 8.30am–5.10pm (
4.50 adults, St. John Capistrano rallied the people to crusade in 1454 from this pulpit, to hold back the Muslim invasions of Christian Europe.

The Best of Vienna in One Day

Sisi—A Tragic Empress

The Best Full-Day Tours

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and musical memorabilia. @ 1hr.

Domgasse 5. y 01 512 1791. www. mozarthausvienna.at.
9 adults,
7 concessions,
7 students,
3 kids 3–12 (free under 3),
18 family (2 adults, 3 kids under 15); audio guides for adults and kids are included in the price. Daily 10am–7pm. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

5 ★★ Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK). The

Stained glass window in the Museum of Applied Arts.


1.50 kids). U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

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4 ★★ Mozarthaus. There’s no escaping Mozart’s association with Vienna—from Mozartkugeln chocolates to ticket touts dressed in his typically flamboyant style. Of his fourteen addresses across the city, only the Mozarthaus remains—a most desirable residence even in Mozart’s time. On arrival in Vienna in 1781, he wrote to his father ‘This is a magnificent place here and the best place in the world for my profession’. He lived in this apartment from 1784 to 1787. They were his happiest and most productive years, during which time he composed countless chamber works and his opera The Marriage of Figaro. Here, Mozart’s career reached its peak, but a taste for the highlife, especially gambling, ruined him. Just four years later, he died a pauper, buried in a mass grave in St Marx cemetery. It’s well worth getting an audio guide here (there’s a special one for kids too). Start at the top of the house and work your way down. Although lacking any of the composer’s personal possessions, the house vividly portrays his life and times, through period furnishings

Applied Arts Museum is one of Vienna’s most eclectic museums, showcasing eight centuries of Austrian decorative arts and design. Treasures range from Renaissance jewelry and Biedermeier furniture to the world’s first fitted kitchen—the Frankfurter Küche (Frankfurt Kitchen). The rooms are arranged in chronological order from the Gothic era to the present day. Highlights include the Jugendstil (the German equivalent of the Art Nouveau movement) rooms, where the evolution of chair design is cleverly shown through a series of shadow screen silhouettes; and the exquisite Arts and Crafts exhibits from the Wiener Werkstätte The view from Mozart’s window down ‘Bloody Alley’.

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The Best of Vienna in One Day

Musikverein façade.

(see p 35). Allow time to visit the superb museum shop, full of design objects, arty gifts and weird and wonderful gadgets and gizmos. @ 1hr;

the museum gets very crowded on Saturdays, when admission is free. Stubenring 5. y 01 711 36-0. www. mak.at.
7.90 adults,
5.50 concessions,
6.30 with Vienna Card,
11 family ticket (free under 6). Tues 10am–midnight, Wed–Sun 10am– 6pm. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor).

6

★★ Österreicher im MAK. This ultra-stylish, minimally furnished museum café with its elaborate coffered ceiling and big windows is the perfect venue for an early evening meal. Resident chef Helmut Österreicher’s light, experimental cuisine offers a refreshing twist on the usual Viennese repertoire. If the weather’s fine, ask for a table in the garden. Stubenring 5.

y 01 7144 0121. $$. 7 ★★ Musikverein. If you can get to only one concert in Vienna, make sure it’s at the Musikverein— the city’s most prestigious classical

music venue. Each year, the sumptuously decorated Golden Hall hosts Vienna’s celebrated New Year’s Day concert, performed by its worldfamous resident orchestra, the Vienna Philharmonic (see p 137). An awe-inspiring roll-call of former concert directors includes Johannes Brahms, Herbert von Karajan and, more recently, Leonard Bernstein, Claudio Abbado and Riccardo Muti. The building itself, designed by Theophil Hansen in Greek Renaissance style, with lavish use of terracotta capitals, balustrades, and gilded statuary, was opened in 1870 for the Viennese Society of Friends of Music. Bösendorferstrasse 12.

y 01 505 8190. www.musikverein.at. Tickets
4 (standing room)–
85. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

8 ★★ Onyx Bar. Enjoy a nightcap at this sleek rooftop bar in the curvaceous, hi-tech Haas Haus building (see p 63). The cocktail menu is almost as impressive as the photogenic views of the Stephansdom steeples. Stephansplatz 12.

y 01 5353 9690. $$.

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The Best Full-Day Tours

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The Best of Vienna in Two Days

ries

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The Best Full-Day Tours

16

O

n your second day, you can start to get to the heart of the city. This tour unwraps more of Vienna’s remarkable history and its dazzling art treasures, with a relaxing interlude to soak up the atmosphere and flavors of the Naschmarkt (Vienna’s most colorful market). Some of the world’s finest museums and art galleries await you after a snack or picnic lunch in the park. In the evening, a visit to the opera rounds off a perfect day. START: U-Bahn 1/2/4 Karlsplatz.

1 ★★ Wien Museum. Don’t let the ugly exterior of the Vienna Museum put you off. Inside, three floors trace the history of the city from the Neolithic Age to the mid20th century, illustrated by some of its finest treasures. My favorite exhibits are the early maps and large-scale models of Vienna, showing vividly how the city has grown over the centuries. A clear overview of Vienna’s eventful past makes exploring the city infinitely more rewarding. @ 1hr. Karlsplatz. y 01

505 8747-0. www.wienmuseum.at.
6 adults,
4 concessions,
3 students,
13 family card (free on Sun). Tues–Sun 9am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

2 ★★ Karlskirche. This church is one of the most accomplished examples of the European baroque style, and deserves a close look both inside and out. Commissioned by Emperor Karl VI for the citizens of Vienna, this architectural masterpiece served to assert the Habsburg claim to European supremacy after the Siege of Vienna in 1683, when the Turks were finally driven from the empire. See p 67, bullet 5.

3

Café Otto Wagner. Sit and watch the world go by in one of the former city railway stations (see p 33, bullet 2), designed by pioneering Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner in 1899, now converted into a delightful café. Karlsplatz.

y 01 505 9904. $.

4 ★★★ Secession Building. This unusual white block was created in 1898 by Otto Wagner’s student, Joseph Maria Olbrich, as a ‘Temple of Art’—a celebration of the ‘Secessionist’ artistic movement— reflecting the fluid, functional yet decorative style of a new generation of artists (led by Gustav Klimt) who rebelled against the meaningless excesses of Viennese ornamentation. An inscription above the door proclaims ‘Der Zeit ihre Kunst, der Kunst ihre Freiheit’ (‘To the age, its own art; to art, its own freedom’). Garlands and floral patterns adorn Karlskirche’s imposing dome dominates the skyline.

17

The Best of Vienna in Two Days

Watch the world go by at the Café Otto Wagner.

the façade, while the entrance is decorated with a golden tree and the heads of the three Gorgons (representing architecture, sculpture, and painting). The crowning glory, however, is a dome of gilded laurel leaves—supposedly symbolizing the interdependence of art and nature—which has earned the Secession Building the affectionate nickname the ‘Golden Cabbage’. The airy interior remains true to its original purpose, hosting exhibitions of contemporary art. In the basement, Klimt’s Beethoven frieze is essential viewing (see p 33, bullet 3).

@ 30min. Friedrichstrasse 12. y 01 587 5307. www.secession.at.
6 adults,
3.50 concessions (free under 10). Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm; guided tours (in German) Sat 3pm, Sun 11am. UBahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). 5 ★★★ = Naschmarkt. The colorful Naschmarkt is Vienna’s largest and liveliest market—a must for all food lovers and perfect place to look for picnic provisions. Mouthwatering displays of seasonal produce—fruit, vegetables, flowers, fish, cheese, and wine—give visitors an extraordinary culinary tour around the world. It stands in the valley of the River Wien, a site once

occupied by medieval vineyards and an 18th-century milk market. Traditional wooden stalls lend it an oldfashioned air. It also has a dazzling choice of eateries to suit all tastes and budgets, ranging from the snack bars which kick-start market traders with early-morning caffeine shots to seafood brasseries that seduce city sophisticates with platters of oysters. The Karlsplatz end tends to have the smartest (and most expensive) Viennese-run stalls, along with luxury delicatessens and elegant pavement cafés. This gives way to a less formal multi-ethnic Tempting displays at the Naschmarkt draw crowds of shoppers daily.

The Best Full-Day Tours

18

section, selling exotic produce and spices from all over the world. Further west (near Kettenbrückengasse), a popular farmers’ market takes place on Fridays and Saturdays (Mar–Oct), and a Saturday morning fleamarket hawks a jumble of antiques, clothing, and bric-abrac to bargain hunters. @ 1hr.

Naschmarkt. Stalls: Mon–Fri 8am– 6pm, Sat 6am–1pm; snack bars: times vary, some open until 10pm or 11pm, closed Sun. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz), U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse).

6 ★★★ = MuseumsQuartier Wien. Built as ‘an urban cultural oasis’ and housed within former riding stables dating from baroque times, this huge museum complex is one of the great success stories of contemporary Vienna. Several art galleries surround a vast central courtyard. The Leopold Museum contains Austrian art from the 19th and 20th centuries; MUMOK is the nation’s largest modern-art museum; and the Kunsthalle stages temporary art exhibitions. Add to this an architecture center, a kids’ museum, and a cluster of shops, open-air restaurants, cafés and bars, and you have one of the most popular cultural venues in town for locals and visitors alike (see p 74). @1–6hr. Museumsplatz 1.

y 01 523 81-1730. www.mqw.at. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

Egyptian friezes adorn the walls of the KHM.

7 =

★ Picnic lunch in Burggarten. Join Mozart, Goethe, and other sculpted luminaries in this shady park (see p 58, bullet 2) and tuck in to your Naschmarkt picnic; or snatch a sausage with crusty bread and a dollop of mustard from the Wienerwürstlstand by the main entrance to the park. Burgring, opposite Eschenbachgasse. No phone. $.

8 ★★★ Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM). Vienna’s superlative Museum of Fine Arts occupies a monumental Renaissance-style building on the Ringstrasse. It contains the Imperial collection assembled over centuries by the Habsburgs, who were keen patrons and avid collectors of art. It’s a staggering haul of treasures from all around the world, displayed in room after room on three floors. There’s far too much to see properly in a single visit, be sure to see the Old Master paintings in the Gemäldegalerie (Picture Gallery) on the first floor.

9 ★★★ Staatsoper. The State Opera holds a special place in the hearts of the Viennese, and is recognized by music-lovers everywhere as one of the world’s most illustrious opera-houses. You can visit the interior, with its grand staircase and plush red-and-gold auditorium, on a guided

19

The Best of Vienna in Two Days

Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna B

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Start on the ground floor in the _ Ancient Egyptian collection, to see the mummies (Room I), Ka-NiNisut’s ancient tomb (Room II), the statue of King Thutmosis III and a charming blue ceramic hippopotamus (both Room IX). In + Greek and Roman Antiquities, look out for the impressive 2nd-century mosaic of Theseus and the Minotaur (Room XII), exquisite Roman cameos (Room XVI), and rare textiles (Room XVIII). The first-floor picture gallery represents all the major schools of European art and many of the world’s greatest artists too. { German,

Gift Shop Information Rest Rooms

include Brueghel the Elder’s The Seasons cycle (Room X), Dürer’s Madonna with the Pear (Room 16),

Rembrandt’s Large Self-Portrait (Room 21), and Vermeer’s The Art of Painting (Room 22). } Italian and Spanish paintings feature Archimboldo’s extraordinary Seasons and Elements paintings (Room 7), and Velazquez’s portrait of the eightyear-old Infanta Margarita Teresa in Blue Dress (Room 10), who married Leopold I just seven years later. The paintings of early 18th-century imperial palaces and Viennese views by Canaletto’s nephew Bellotto commissioned for the Empress Maria Theresa (Room VII) are especially fascinating. The second floor contains one of the world’s most extensive | coin collections and over 1,000 : miniature portraits collected by Emperor Ferdinand II.

tour. Even if you wouldn’t normally consider seeing an opera, you may well be lured by the glitz and glamour of the Staatsoper. If you do, try to make Mozart your first performance.

@ 40min tour (start times vary but are usually advertised on a board at the entrance daily). Opernring 2. y 01 514-44 7810 (box office). www. staatsoper.at. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

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The Best Full-Day Tours

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The Best of Vienna in Three Days

Gros s Sta dtgu tgass e

The Best Full-Day Tours

22

A

fter two days of art, architecture, history, and culture, today’s trip takes in some of the city’s best-loved attractions, including the famous Prater Riesenrad (ferris wheel), some eccentric modern architecture, the city zoo, and Schönbrunn, the most-visited palace in Austria. It requires an early start and a bit of stamina, but you will be well rewarded for your efforts. Don’t forget your camera! START: U-Bahn 1 (Praterstern).

1 ★★★ = Prater (Riesenrad). See p 98, bullet 4. 2 ★★ = Danube Canal cruise. The Danube, Vienna’s lifeblood since Roman times, was partly canalized at the end of the 19th century to reduce flooding in the built-up areas of the city. A minicruise provides an entirely new perspective of the city. The DDSG (Blue Danube Shipping Company) offers two short trips or a round tour. My favorite route is Strecke A (Stretch A), which takes just under two hours (starting from Schwedenplatz), and passes some of Vienna’s lesser known but nonetheless intriguing sights.

3 ★★ = Hundertwasserhaus. You can’t fail to spot the quirky Hundertwasserhaus! With its The Prater amusement park—fun for all the family.

See the sights by boat.

vividly-colored patchwork façade, gleaming gold onion-domes, distinct lack of straight lines (even inside) and tree-clad roof, this building stands out among the dull AustroHungarian empire architecture that surrounds it. Designed by Austrian artist, Friedensreich Hundertwasser in 1986 as a public housing complex, it provoked fierce debate among the Viennese who described it as ‘an unbearable display of newmoney pomposity.’ Now it is a much loved part of the Viennese cityscape. Löwengasse (on the corner of Kegelgasse). www.hundertwasserhaus.at. Tram N (Hetzgasse).

4 ★★★ = KunstHausWien. Just round the corner from the Hundertwasserhaus is one of my favorite

23 VORGARTENSTRASSE VORGARTENST ORGARTENSTRASSE ASSE U E

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The first eye-catching sight on this tour is the cupola of the j ★ Sternwarte Urania. Built in 1910, this Austria’s oldest astronomical observatory and also contains a cinema, puppet theater and a café with superb canal vistas. Further east, look out for glimpses of the k ★★★ KunstHausWien (See p 22, bullet 4), designed by Vienna’s radical architect, Hundertwasser. Beyond lies a curious structure known as the l ★ Gasometer. These four rotund brick towers were used to store the city’s gas supply from 1899 to 1969. In the 1990s, they were converted into 615 apartments, a vast shopping center, and leisure complex. As you pass through the massive Freudenau lock

on to the New Danube, you’ll see the gravel beaches of the Donauinsel (Danube Island) to your right and the m Prater park (see p 96) on your left. Look out for three Prater landmarks: the Buddhist pagoda; the Ernst Happel Stadium (venue of the Euro 2008 football tournament); and the Riesenrad (see p 98, bullet 4). The tour ends at the Reichsbrücke, a bridge near Mexikoplatz. The most prominent building on this square is the multi-turreted n Franz-vonAssisi-Kirche, built in 1898 by Emperor Franz Joseph I to commemorate his golden anniversary. DDSG

museums—the KunstHausWien. This is not your usual museum experience but rather an adventure of creative architecture, and the chance to

experience the extraordinary range of Hundertwasser’s creative genius, which encompassed art, graphics, models, tapestry, kites, sculpture,

Information Desk, Handelskai 265. y 01 58880. www.ddsg-bluedanube.at. U-Bahn 1 (Vorgartenstrasse).

The Best of Vienna in Three Days

Rossauerr

24

The Best Full-Day Tours

shiny, irregularly shaped pillars; a roof garden and no straight lines (even the floor is uneven). When it was created in 1989, critics described it as ‘tasteless’, resembling ‘a half-melted slab of liquorice’. Come and see what you think.

@ 1hr. Morning is the quietest time

to visit; avoid weekends if possible. Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13. y 01 712 0495. www.kunsthauswien.com.
9 adults,
7 concessions,
3 kids.
20 family. Daily 10am–7pm. Tram N/O (Radestzkyplatz).

5

KunstHausWien, designed by the undeniably eccentric Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

even postage stamps. His brightly colored paintings are as distinctive as his architectural constructions. The building (a converted furniture factory) features all the artist’s characteristic trademarks—vivid colors contrasting with black and gold;

=

★★★ KunstHausWien Café. As you might expect from Hundertwasser, this café is quirky and informal, with a delightful shaded patio area. Its simple menu includes a good choice of vegetarian dishes. Untere Weissgerber-

strasse 13. y 01 712 0495. $–$$.

6 ★★★ = Schönbrunn Palace & Park. See p 104. 7 ★★ = Schönbrunn Zoo. See p 108, bullet 7.

•

Hundertwasser When the flamboyant Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928–2000) left the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts in 1948 after just three months of study, it seemed unlikely that he would become one of Austria’s most celebrated (albeit controversial) artist-designers. He felt that design was stagnant (‘our real illiteracy is our inability to create’) and in an effort similar to the Secessionist movement 100 years previously, he strove to find harmony between nature and the creativity of man. His style frequently reflected two of his beliefs in particular: that ‘the straight line is alien to mankind’ and ‘our whole life proceeds in spirals’. He made his mark on Vienna with the Hundertwasserhaus, the KunstHausWien, and one of Vienna’s oddest tourist attractions—the Fernwärme—Europe’s brightest municipal rubbish incinerator out at Spittelau (U-Bahn 6 Spittelau).

2

The Best SpecialInterest Tours

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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T

he Hofburg, residence of the mighty Habsburg dynasty for over 600 years, should be on every visitor’s itinerary. Originally a medieval castle, it was extended by each successive emperor to demonstrate the power and riches of the Habsburgs, until it effectively became a ‘city within a city’. The resulting labyrinthine complex, and the astounding treasures within it, established Vienna’s reputation worldwide as a place of unrivalled elegance, wealth, and splendor.

1 ★ Michaelerplatz. Layer upon layer of history has been unearthed in Michaelerplatz, the monumental square adjacent to the Hofburg. Roman remains and medieval foundations were recently excavated at the centre of the square. Then there’s the grandly colonnaded Michaelertrakt (St. Michael’s Wing) and Michaelertor (St. Michael’s Gate) entrance to the Hofburg—both added by Emperor Franz Joseph in 1893. The fountains on the outer limits of the main gateway (see below) symbolize Habsburg power both on land and at sea. The gigantic copper-clad cupola above the Michaelertor looks especially striking (and photogenic) from Mastery of the Seas sculpture in Michaelerplatz.

Kohlmarkt. The Michaelerkirche opposite was once the parish church of the Imperial Court (see p 55, bullet 7). Also in the square, Loos Haus (designed by Adolf Loos) broke architectural boundaries in 1912 with its functional design and unadorned green marble façade (see p 34, bullet 7).

2 ★★★ = Spanish Riding School. See p 44, bullet 5.

3

Demel. This charming café and cake shop named after the imperial confectioner was founded in 1786. For centuries it has drawn wealthy Viennese shoppers to its old-fashioned mirrored and gilded interior for exquisite coffee, cakes, and confectionery, including Empress Sisi’s favorite, sugared violets. Kohlmarkt

14. y 01 5351717–0. $$.

4 ★★ Silberkammer. The Imperial Silver Collection is a dazzling array of priceless tableware in glass, silver, and porcelain. Some of these precious pieces are still used today for state banquets. The Grand Vermeil dinner service (Room 7), containing 4,500 pieces, is one of the world’s largest silver-gilt services. Porcelain highlights include the flower plates of keen botanist, Emperor Franz II (Room D); the Hunting Lodge porcelain given by Sisi to Franz Joseph in 1870 (Room

29

Imperial Vienna

Traditional costumes on display in Franz Josef’s waiting room.

6); floral baroque Meissen, Minton, and Sèvres porcelain services (Rooms H and J); and 60 pictorial plates from the Viennese Manufactory (Room 23), decorated with local scenes, including Schönbrunn, Belvedere, and Prater. @ 45 min.

Hofburg. y 01 533 7570. www. hofburg-wien.at.
9.90 adults,
4.90 kids (6–18),
8.90 concessions. Audio guides available free of charge. Ticket price includes the Sisi Museum and Imperial Apartments. Daily 9am–5pm (5.30pm July–Aug). Arrive before opening time to beat the crowds in high season. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

5 ★★★ = Imperial Apartments and Sisi Museum. The Imperial Palace accommodated the Habsburg royals for over six centuries (1282-1918), during which time the Hofburg complex developed into one of the great powerhouses of Europe. The first six rooms form the Sisi Museum, where a host of artifacts (poems, recipes, dresses, toiletries, portraits, jewelry,

and so forth) offer a fascinating insight into the tragic empress’s private life. Some items reveal her passions for travel, poetry and sport, as well as her obsession with beauty and diet. Among her favorite beauty treatments were a leather facemask lined in raw veal and worn overnight, and a shampoo recipe for egg yolk and cognac to wash her floorlength hair—a process that took all day. From her early 30s onwards she refused to allow her portrait to be painted, so that she would always be remembered as a great beauty. @ 1hr; visit early to avoid

the crowds. Hofburg. y 01 533 7570. www.hofburg-wien.at.
9.90 adults,
4.90 kids (6–18),
8.90 concessions. Audio guides available free of charge. Ticket price includes the Sisi Museum & Imperial Apartments. Daily 9am–5pm (5.30pm July–Aug); kids’ tours: 10.30am, 2.30pm Sat, Sun and public holidays. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

6 ★★★ = Schweizerhof (Swiss Court). The oldest part of

The Best Special-Interest Tours

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The grandiose Imperial Library.

the Hofburg, the Swiss Court, was originally a 13th-century fortress complete with a moat and drawbridge, built by King Ottokar of Bohemia to defend himself against Rudolf von Habsburg. He failed, and the Habsburgs moved in. The name recalls the Swiss Guards who were once posted here. Enter through the striking red, black, and gold Schweizertor (Swiss Gate), one of Vienna’s finest Renaissance constructions, into the ancient

courtyard. The Gothic Burgkapelle (Castle Chapel), up the steps to your right, was restored in baroque style in the 17th and 18th centuries. Mass is famously performed here every Sunday (except July–Sept) by the Wiener Sängerknaben (Vienna Boys’ Choir—see p 137). The sparkling Schatzkammer (Treasury), whose entrance is beneath the chapel, is one of the world’s most impressive national collections, containing a breath-taking hoard of jewels, crowns, and sacred relics spanning 1,000 years of both the Habsburg and the Holy Roman empires. @ Schatzkammer: 3⁄4 hr. Hofburg. y 01 525 24-0. www.khm. at, www.hofburgkapelle.at.
10 adults,
7.50 concessions,
3.50 kids,
20 family card (2 adults plus up to 3 kids),
3 audio guide. Wed– Mon 10am–6pm. (chapel:
1.50. Open Mon–Thurs 11am–3pm, Fri 11am–1pm) U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

7 ★ Josefsplatz. An equestrian statue of Emperor Joseph II marks the center of this sun-baked square, once used as a training ground for the Spanish Riding School. It is flanked by two fine palaces, the Renaissance Stallburg (stables) and

The mighty equestrian statue of Franz Josef dominates the entrance to the Albertina.

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Dine in the emperors’ greenhouse—the Palmenhaus!

the Prunksaal (State Hall). This magnificent building is a gem of baroque architecture, decked with marble statuary, nutwood bookcases, and lavish frescoes. Once the Imperial Library, it remains the largest room of its kind in Europe, and contains a major part of the National Library’s extensive collection of manuscripts, maps, books, and music scores. @ 20min. Prunk-

saal, Josefsplatz 1. www.onb.ac.at.
5 adults,
3 concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (until 9pm Thurs). Guided tour: Thurs 6pm (
2). U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

8 ★ Augustinerkirche. See Best Churches p 55, bullet 5. 9 ★★ Palais Albertina. One of the world’s finest collections of graphic art is housed in the Albertina Palace at the southern end of the Hofburg. Named after Duke Albert of Saxony-Teschen, it contains his extensive collection of a million etchings, engravings and lithographs, over 65,000 watercolors

@ 1hr; quietest over lunch-hour. Albertinaplatz 1. y 01 534 83-0. www.albertina.at.
9.50 adults,
8 concessions,
7 students,
3.50 kids (free under 6). Daily 10am–6pm (until 9pm Wed). U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

0 ★★ Palmenhaus. You’ll love the beautiful Jugendstil Palmenhaus (Glass House) brasserie in the former Imperial Garden. It is a stylish setting for lunch, serving delicious Viennese and Mediterranean dishes and fine wines. Burggarten. y 01 533 1033. $$–$$$. Tram 1/2/D/J (Burgring).

! ★ Neue Burg. See p 60, bullet 5. @ ★ Volksgarten. This beautiful garden between Heldenplatz (see p 47, bullet 5) and the Burgtheater (see p 60, bullet 8) is surely Vienna’s most romantic, famed for its beautiful roses (each carefully labeled) and its Theseus temple, built for Sisi in 1822 as a gift from her husband, Franz Joseph. @ 30 min. Tram 1/2/D/J (Dr-Karl-RennerRing).

Imperial Vienna

and drawings, and around 70,000 photographs. Virtually every major artist from the 15th century to the present day is represented. Highlights include works by Dürer, Michelangelo, Rembrandt, and Rubens. There are no permanent exhibitions; the artworks are rotated in temporary displays due to their sensitivity to light. Since its reopening in 2003, following extensive renovation, the magnificent neoclassical Habsburg State Rooms of the Palais Albertina are now open to the public for the first time in 200 years.

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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33

ienna is the birthplace of Jugendstil—Austria’s answer to Art Nouveau—and its spin-off movement, the Secession. This tour takes you on a ‘greatest-hits’ trip around their ground-breaking, Modernist art and architecture, including the pièce de résistance, the Secession Building—a daring structure with a cupola of golden laurel leaves, known locally as the ‘Golden Cabbage’.

1 ★★★ Upper Belvedere. The best collection of Austrian Modernism can be found in the Belvedere (www.belvedere.at), a glorious baroque palace, where pride of place goes to the celebrated work known as The Kiss by Gustav Klimt (founder of the Secession movement), alongside paintings by French Impressionists and Austrian contemporaries Schiele and Kokoschka. See p 68, bullet 8.

2 ★★ Otto Wagner Pavilions. These two symmetrical Jugendstil railway stations were built as part of Otto Wagner’s scheme for Vienna’s horse-drawn rail network. Made of green-painted steel with white marble slabs, they have striking decorative golden flower motifs. Both stations fell into disuse when the modern U-Bahn was built. They The sunflower motif on Wagner’s pavilions is a recurring Jugendstil theme.

The striking Secession building.

were dismantled in the 1960s but re-erected in 1977, following extensive protests. One is now a café (see p 16, bullet ); the other contains a small museum devoted to Wagner.

3

@ 20min. Karlsplatz. y 01 505 874

785 177. www.wienmuseum.at.
2 adults,
1 concessions, free on Sun. Apr–Oct ,Tues–Sun 9am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

3 ★★★ Secession. This gallery is the finest example of Jugendstil architecture in Vienna, reflecting the Secessionist ideals of purity and functionalism. Be sure to visit the fascinating interior, if only to see Gustav Klimt’s remarkable 34m-long Beethoven frieze in the basement. Based on the composer’s 9th Symphony (and, in particular, his musical setting of German poet Schiller’s

Jugendstil Vienna

V

34

The Best Special-Interest Tours

they represent Wagner’s ultimate fusion of Art Nouveau decoration with modern materials. @ 5min.

Linke Wienzeile 40 and 38. y No phone. Closed to the public. U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse).

6 ★★★ Leopold Museum. The main draw of this gallery of 19thand 20th-century Austrian art is the world’s largest collection of works by the provocative artist, Egon Schiele. It also contains some significant Klimt canvases. While you’re here, check out the exquisite Arts and Crafts furniture designs of the Wiener Werkstatte. See p 76, bullet 2. Wagner’s ornate Majolikahaus.

Ode to Joy), it is one of the masterpieces of Viennese Art Nouveau. See p 16, bullet 4.

4

=

★★★ Naschmarkt. You’ll find some of the best snack bars in the city at Vienna’s top market, serving everything from Wienerwurst to sushi and satay. My favorites include the Naschmarkt Deli for brunch (Stand 421-436, y 01 585 0823, $); Umar Fisch (Stand 76, y 01 587 0456, $$) for shellfish; and the Indian Pavillion (stand 74-75, y 01 587 8561, $–$$) for a taste of the exotic. See The Best Dining, p 109.

5 ★ Wagner Apartments. Few façades in Vienna are as beautiful as the Jugendstil MajolikaHaus. Designed by pioneering architect Otto Wagner in 1899, it is named after the majolica tiles he used to create the colorful, flowing, floral patterns covering the exterior. Together with its neighbor (on the corner of Köstlergasse), whose curvaceous façade is further embellished with gold embossing by Secessionist artist Koloman Moser,

7 ★ Loos Haus. Loos Haus, designed by Adolf Loos in 1921, caused an outcry when it was first built. Its austere design, geometric lines, and lack of ornamentation offended public taste during a period when florid façades were still de rigueur. The ornament-loving Emperor Franz Joseph found the house so hideous that he kept the curtains of rooms overlooking Michaelerplatz drawn shut and refused to use the Hofburg’s Michaelertor exit ever again. Nicknamed ‘the house without eyebrows’, it is now Fiaker passing Loos Haus—the ‘house without eyebrows’.

35

The Wiener Werkstätte (Viennese Workshop), founded in 1903 by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser as a direct offshoot of the Secession movement, was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, popular in Britain at the time. The aim was to bring Jugendstil design into homes throughout Vienna. By turning functional, everyday objects such as cutlery, crockery, furniture, and curtains into unique items of great beauty and quality, they sought to transform daily life into a ‘Gesamtkunstwerk’ (total work of art). By 1905, the Wiener Werkstätte had over 100 craftsmen, including Klimt, Loos, and Kokoschka, but it was forced to close in 1932, unable to compete financially with the cheap, mass-produced items made by rival companies. Nowadays, the best collections of Wiener Werkstätte artifacts can be seen in the Leopold Museum and MAK (see p 12, bullet 5). Some upmarket design shops still sell products along similar lines, notably Augarten, Lobmeyr, Woka, and Thonet (see The Best Shopping, p 79).

considered a masterpiece of modern design. The interior (currently a bank) reflects the exterior’s simple, stylish elegance. @ 10min. Herrengasse

2–4. y No phone. www.designzone looshaus.at. Bank opening hours (to glimpse inside): Mon–Wed, Fri 9am–3pm, Thurs 9am–5.30pm. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

8 ★★ Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK). The Jugendstil and Wiener Werkstätte rooms are a must-see here. See p 12, bullet 5.

9 ★ Postsparkasse. This marvelous example of Secession architecture was designed by Otto Wagner in 1904–6. He won a competition to create a novel structure capable of reflecting the Post Office Savings Bank’s innovative procedures, and came up with this extraordinary gray marble façade, held together by 17,000 metal studs and topped by stylized Jugendstil

angels. The lofty, light-infused interior (and tiny Wagner museum) can be viewed during bank opening times. @ 10min (30min including

museum). Georg-Coch-Platz 2. y 01 534 533 3088. www.ottowagner.at. Museum:
5 adults,
3.50 concessions (free under 6). Mon,Thurs 8.30am–8.30pm, Tues–Wed, Fri 8.30am–3pm, Sat 10am–5pm. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

0

★★ American Bar. Designed by Adolf Loos in 1908, this cocktail bar is an absolute gem, characterized by clever use of mirrors (to create an illusion of space), beautiful Art Nouveau glass cabinets, onyx, marble, and—a Loos’ hallmark— mahogany paneling. Come for early evening drinks, before the crowds arrive. Kärntner Durchgang 10.

y 01 512 3283. www.loosbar.at. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

Jugendstil Vienna

The Wiener Werkstätte

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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his lengthy but fascinating tour pieces together the extraordinary legacy of one of the world’s leading musical cities from Mozart the musical whiz-kid to the kings of the Viennese waltz. It also includes some lesser known sights and historic buildings closed to the public, which you can easily skip if you are short of time or energy. wonderfully evocative. In the back room, enjoy listening to excerpts of his ‘greatest hits’ while gazing over the city rooftops. When Beethoven lived here, he would have had sweeping views of the Vienna Woods. @ 45min. Mölker Bastei 8.

y 01 535 8905. www.wienmuseum. at.
6 adults,
4 concessions,
3 kids,
13 family ticket; free on Sun. Tues–Sun 10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor). 2 ★ Dreimäderlhaus. See p 72, bullet 5. 3 ★ Collalto Palace. Even

Pasqualati House—one of Beethoven’s numerous residences.

1 ★★ Pasqualati Haus. The German-born composer Ludwig van Beethoven moved to Vienna at the age of 22 to take lessons with Haydn and Mozart. During his 35 years in the city, he moved house a staggering 68 times. The Pasqualati house on the old city ramparts (named after its long-time owner Josef von Pasqualati) is the most interesting of three Beethoven houses currently open to the public. The composer lived in this house from 1804 to 1818, and wrote many of his best-loved works here, including the opera Fidelio, Symphonies 4, 5, 7, and 8, and his 4th piano concerto. His rooms (on the 4th floor) contain just a handful of mementoes, portraits, scores, and personal belongings, but they are

though you can’t go inside, all Mozart fans make their pilgrimage to see the simple plaque on the wall of the unremarkable baroque building situated in Vienna’s largest enclosed square. It commemorates the site where Mozart made his first public appearance, aged just six, in 1762. The boy-wonder had recently arrived by boat from his native Salzburg and wowed the audience with his mastery of the clavichord and violin. Am Hof 13. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

4 ★ Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente. It seems fitting that such a musically-rich city should have an impressive musical instrument collection, and you won’t be disappointed by this collection of Ancient Musical Instruments. Started by Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol, this now contains the finest ensemble of Renaissance instruments in the world, including an extraordinary 16thcentury claviorgan, which can

City of Music

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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6

★ Café Frauenhuber. Fortify yourself with coffee and cake in Vienna’s oldest café. Mozart once lived in this building, and Beethoven used to perform piano sonatas here. Himmelpfortgasse 6. y 01 512 8383. $–$$.

7 ★★★ Staatsoper. Vienna’s reputation as a ‘City of Music’ focuses largely on its prestigious State Opera, which has for centuries staged premieres of many leading works. It continues to enjoy a dazzling reputation, with 300 performances annually taken from its vast repertoire of ballets and opera An Italian 19th century mandolin in the ‘greats’ (including Mozart’s The Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente. Magic Flute, Wagner’s Ring Cycle, and Beethoven’s Fidelio). It is also reproduce special effects like birdthe venue for the annual Opera song; some early serpents (snakeBall, the most glittering event in shaped horns); violins with the Austrian social calendar, held elaborately carved scrolls; and on the last Thursday of pianos once owned by Haydn, Vienna’s Fasching (Carnival) Beethoven, and Schubert. season celebrations. @ 45min. Neue Burg, Stage and stalls are Heldenplatz. y 01 transformed into a 525 24–4602. gigantic flowerwww.khm.at.
8 filled ballroom. I adults,
6 concesthoroughly recomsions,
3 kids,
16 family; mend a guided tour of price includes admission to the interior, for a closer the Ephesus Museum and look at its grand stairArms and Armor Colleccase and plush red-andtion;
3 audio guide. gold auditorium. Tour Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. times vary depending Tram 1/2/D/J on rehearsal sched(Ringstrasse). ules, but they are 5 ★★ usually advertised Mozart graces Burggarten. This informal the Burggarten. on a daily billboard by the park in the city center (see entrance. @ 40min tour. p 58, bullet 2) contains a Opernring 2. y 01 514 magnificent marble statue of Mozart 44–7810 (box office). www.staatsoper. by Viktor Tilgner (1896), and scenes at. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). in bas-reliefs from his opera Don 8 ★★ Arnold Schönberg CenGiovanni. Burgring (just inside the ter. Somewhat off the tourist track, main gates, opposite Eschenbachthis small archive center is essential gasse). Tram 1/2/D/J (Ringstrasse). viewing for any aficionado of 20thcentury classical music (see Jewish

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The plodding, triple-time German folk dance known as the Ländler was transformed by the Viennese into a merry, whirling dance during the 1820s. It first became popular in Viennese dance-halls thanks to the composer and leader of a small ensemble, Joseph Lanner. Johann Strauss I (also known as ‘the Elder’) was one of his viola players and, in 1825, he broke away to form his own waltz orchestra. The two band-leaders conducted a lengthy ‘waltz war’, performing in the cafés of the Prater, but the rivalry ended amicably when Strauss played waltz tunes (at slow speed) at Lanner’s funeral in 1843. After his death, the Strauss family dominated the Viennese waltz scene for over half a century—thanks largely to Johann Strauss II, the second-generation ‘Waltz King’, who composed nearly 400 new dance tunes, including the Blue Danube (1867). Today Strauss the Younger’s house can be visited at Praterstrasse 54 (Tues–Thurs 2pm–6pm, Fri–Sun 10am–1pm). His statue graces the Stadtpark (see p 94) and his music is performed nightly in venues throughout the city (see The Best Arts & Entertainment, p 133).

Vienna p 48, bullet 9). Schönberg famously developed 12-tone compositional technique, stretching the boundaries of 19th-century tonality to new dimensions. He founded the Second Viennese School of Music (along with fellow Viennese composers Alban Berg and Anton von Webern). Their music was not well received at the time, and Schönberg eventually moved to America. Today he is considered to be one of the most influential and distinguished composers of the 20th century. This

fascinating modern center enables you to see the man behind the music—through his photos, brilliant artworks, reconstructed study, and homemade work tools (many from recycled materials)—and to listen to compositions by Schönberg, Webern, and Berg. @ 45min. Zaunergasse 1–3 (take elevator in inner lobby area to the 1st floor, then ring on the doorbell). y 01 712 1888. www. schoenberg.at.
6 adults,
3 kids,
2.70 students. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Tram 1/2/D (Schwarzenbergplatz).

Arnold Schönberg—a highly regarded teacher.

City of Music

The Viennese Waltz

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In ? ★ Ressel Park, a statue of the German romantic composer, Johannes Brahms, faces the Musikverein where he was once director. Brahms lived in nearby Karlsgasse, and was charmed by Vienna, calling it a ‘village’. The Venetian baroque composer Antonio Vivaldi is buried at the Á ★ Technische Universität nearby. Richard Strauss, famed for his symphonic poems, lived at ª ★★★ Mozartgasse from 1919 to 1925. The Jugendstil ‘Mozart Fountain’ outside illustrates scenes from Mozart’s opera The Magic Flute. German composer Christoph Willibald Gluck (director of Empress Maria Theresa’s court orchestra) lived at £ ★ Wiedner Hauptstrasse 32. The Finnish composer Jean Sibelius lived at ¢ ★ Waaggasse 1 from 1890 to 1891. He left Vienna having

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

St fer iahil Mar

failed an audition to join the Vienna Philharmonic as a violinist. A plaque at ° ★ Johann Strauss Gasse 4 marks the last home of Johann Strauss II. The opening bars of his celebrated Blue Danube waltz decorate the wall at number 10. Czech composer Antonín Dvorák frequented the former Hotel Goldenen Lamm at ¤ ★ Wiedner Hauptstrasse 7. The ¦ ★ Theater an der Wien (Linke Wienzeile 6) pays homage to Mozart with its Papageno statue (a reference to The Magic Flute). It premiered Beethoven’s opera Fidelio in 1805. Franz Schubert died in 1828 at ¥ ★★ Kettenbrückengasse 6. Today it contains a small museum with a handful of poignant mementoes. y 01 581 6730. www.wien museum.at.
2 adults,
1 kids, free on Sun. Fri–Sun 2pm–6pm.

41

City of Music

9 ★★ Wieden. If you have time, explore the bohemian musicians’ district of Wieden, just south of another great musical focal-point, the Musikverein (see p 13, bullet 7). Here it is easy to see why Vienna is called the ‘City of Music’, as nearly every street bears a plaque to one musical genius or another. Start: Karlsplatz.

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0 ★★★ Haus der Musik. In a city full of musical museums, this one is truly unique, focusing not only on Vienna’s legacy of classical music but also on the science of sound and the listening process. Housed in the former residence of Otto Nicolai, founder of the celebrated Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, it seems fitting that the first floor hosts the orchestra’s archives (including sketches, letters, batons, posters, and scores by various composers including Bruckner, Brahms, and Richard Strauss), and a film of Vienna’s illustrious New Year’s Day concert. See p 43, bullet 4. ! ★★★ = Mozarthaus. See p 12, bullet 4. @ ★★ Central Cemetery. Visit the final resting-places of many of the city’s great musicians, including Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Schönberg, and all the Strausses at this vast cemetery which contains over 21/2 million graves. Look out also for a monument to Mozart (who ended up in a paupers’ grave in the evocatively overgrown St. Marx Cemetery). The cemetery’s beautiful Jugendstil church was built in 1910 by Max Hegele, a pupil of Otto Wagner. A map near the entrance helps locate the celebrity

This elegant fountain representing Mozart’s Magic Flute is tucked down a side street in Wieden.

graves. Simmeringer Hauptstrasse 232–244. y 01 767 1507. Free admission. Nov–Feb 8am–5pm; Mar–Apr, Sept–Oct 7am–6pm; May–Aug 7am–7pm (last admission 30min before closing). Tram 6/71 (Zentralfriedhof).

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★★ Griechenbeisl. Tuck into hearty Austrian cuisine in the cozy vaulted dining rooms (or shaded pavement terrace) of one of Vienna’s oldest inns, located beside the ornate Greek Orthodox Church, and once frequented by Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, and Mark Twain. Fleischmarkt 11, y 01 533 1977. $$.

$ ★★ Musikverein. A concert here marks the perfect ending to a musical day! See p 13, bullet 7.

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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ienna may not seem the obvious choice for a family break but, believe me, my young family think it’s quite the best city they’ve ever visited. Fiakers (horse-drawn carriages), tram rides, boat trips, the Prater ferris wheel, parks, playgrounds, and a host of childfriendly museums ensure kids of all ages will find plenty to amuse themselves.

1 ★★★ = Prater. Kids young and old love the Riesenrad (big wheel), dodgem cars, and thrill-rides at the amusement park, as well as the green open spaces of the Prater for picnics, playgrounds, and sporting fun. See p 96.

2 ★★ = Danube Canal cruise. See p 100, bullet 2.

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3 ★★★ KunstHausWien. Explore the curved and colorful world of the eccentric Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. There’s a special kids’ tour and even a goodie bag for them to design their own KunstHaus (ask at reception). The café here is child-friendly too, with a lovely shaded patio garden. See p 22, bullet 4.

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4 ★★★ Haus der Musik. This eccentric venue describes itself as an ‘interactive sound museum’. As well as the archives of the Vienna

KunstHausWien’s café patio is ideal for family refreshments.

Philharmonic Orchestra, and a vivid portrayal of Vienna’s classical composers, you can also explore the

The Prater amusement park—fun for all the family.

Kids’ Vienna

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

44

mechanics of sound and the experience of listening, through hands-on exhibits and instruments, state-ofthe-art interactive toys, and touch screens. Test your hearing, compose your own waltz, record your own electronic CD and, best of all, conduct the Vienna Philharmonic using an electronic baton. The entire museum is like a giant musical theme park—especially enjoyable for older kids. @ 1hr. Seilerstätter 30. y 01 51648. www.hdm.at.
10 adults,
8.50 concessions,
5.50 kids (free under 3),
26 family ticket; combined ticket with Mozarthaus also available. Daily 10am–10pm. Make use of the late opening hours and go in the evenings. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

5 ★★ = Spanish Riding School. The image of white Lipizzaner stallions performing dazzling dressage steps to waltz music is perhaps Vienna’s most powerful marketing tool. A grand performance of these amazing equestrian gymnastics is an unforgettable treat. If you can’t get tickets, attend a Privatissimum—a demonstration (in German and English) of their rigorous training routine. Alternatively, watch the dashingly uniformed riders perfect the art of classical horsemanship at the morning exercises. All events take place in the Hofburg’s Winter Riding School, the world’s oldest indoor riding school in a stately baroque style. Michaelerplatz 1, Hofburg, Reitschulegasse 2.

y 01 533 9032–0 for Privatissimum and performance dates (most Fri 7pm, Sat 11am, Sun 11am except July–Aug). www.srs.at. Tickets:
22–165 (available online or from Michaelerplatz 1). Kids under 3 may not attend performances, but those aged 3–6 may attend free of charge if they sit on an adult’s lap. Sit in the stalls or gallery I if possible). www.srs.at. Morning exercises: 10am–noon Tues–Sat Sept–June. Tickets:
12 adults,
6 kids (same

Fun and games at the KunstHausWien.

day only, at Josefsplatz, Gate 2). U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

6 =

★ MQ cafés. The MuseumsQuartier is crammed with eateries to suit all ages, tastes, and budgets. My two favorite lunch spots with kids are MQ Daily (y 01 522 4524, $) or the Dschungel Wien Café (y 01 522 0720, $) right outside Zoom Children’s Museum (see below). If you eat al fresco, your offspring can run around outside and burn off some excess energy.

7 ★★★ = Zoom Kindermuseum. This Children’s Museum is brilliant. Designed exclusively for kids, it offers a wide variety of hands-on exhibitions and activities including the ‘Ocean’ play area (age 8months–6years); ‘Let’s get colorful’ messy, arty workshops (age 3–12), and an exciting multimedia ‘Zoom lab’ (age 8–14). @ workshops last 1–11/2hr. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 524 7908. Phone for times and prices. Reservations essential. Workshop staff speak German and English. www.kindermuseum.at. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

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Kids’ Vienna

8 ★★★ = Technisches Museum Wien. This huge Technical Museum is a little out of town, but easy to reach by U-Bahn. Kids love the old trams and planes, the hands-on technology displays, and interactive science experiments. There’s even a special adventure area (‘Das Mini’) devoted to kids aged 2–6 (but also enjoyed by older kids) with activities such as changing the wheel on a car, running in a humansized mouse wheel, and dressing up as fire-fighters. The café is reasonably priced and child-friendly too.

@ 2hr. Mariahilferstrasse 212. y 01

899 98–6000. www.technisches museum.at.
8.50 adults,
5 students & kids (free under 6),
7 senior citizens,
11 family ticket (1 adult plus 1 child) or
17 (2 adults plus 1 child), then
1.50 for each additional child. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Tram 52/58 (Penzingerstrasse) or 10 (Johnstrasse/Linzerstrasse). The Kindermuseum—just for kids.

Get lost in the maze at Schönbrunn!

9 ★★★ = Schönbrunn Palace and Park. There’s a huge amount for kids to do at the Schönbrunn Palace, including a puppet theater, a maze, a wacky playground, the zoo (see p 108, bullet 7), and even a special Kindermuseum (Kids’ Museum), where kids can experience something of the imperial way of life while playing with toys of the era, laying the table for a banquet, and dressing up in Habsburg costumes. See p 104. @ 1–4hr. Kindermuseum. y 01 811 13-239. www.kinder.schoenbrunn.at.
6.50 adults,
5 concessions,
4.90 kids (3–18),
10.50/
17 family. Sat–Sun 10am–5pm (last admission 4pm), also daily 10am–5pm during school vacations. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).

0

=

★★ Hofbackstube— Apple Strudel Show. Watch confectioners making traditional apple strudel in the old-fashioned ‘Court Bakery’, then eat one, piping hot, straight from the oven. @ 1hr. Kava-

lierstrakt 52. y 01 811 13–239. www.schoenbrunn.at.
3.90. Hourly demonstrations daily 10am–5pm, mid-Mar–Oct. U-Bahn 4 (Schloss Schönbrunn).

=

! ★★★ Schönbrunn Zoo. See p 108, bullet 7.

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47

1 ★★ Judenplatz. This square marks the heart of the medieval Jewish ghetto. The first expulsion of Vienna’s Jews took place in 1421. You can learn more about the ghetto during that period at the Judenplatz Museum, and visit the remains of one of Europe’s largest medieval synagogues, excavated in 1995. In the square, I love the stark poignancy of the modern stone monument devoted to the Holocaust. Designed by British sculptress Rachel Whitbread, and erected in 2000, it resembles an inside-out library of nameless books lined up on bookshelves with their spines facing inwards, symbolizing the many stories of the victims left untold. @ 30min. Judenplatz.

Museum: Judenplatz 8. y 01 535 0431. www.jmw.at.
4 adults,
2.50 concessions. Sun–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–2pm. U-Bahn U1/3 (Stephansplatz).

2

Ella’s. This bright, modern caférestaurant serves a superb range of coffee, and a mouth-watering menu of ‘Mediterranean soul food’ on its sunny terrace. The lemon risotto with haloumi is especially tasty. Judenplatz 9-10. y 01 535 1577. $–$$.

3 ★★★ Documentation Center of Austrian Resistance (DÖW). Fascinating but inevitably harrowing, this small museum documents the early history of National Socialism and the persecution of its opponents. @ 1hr. Altes Rathaus,

Wipplingerstrasse 8. y 01 228 9469 0319. www.doew.at. Free. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (7pm Thurs). U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

4 ★ Freud Museum. See p 73, bullet 8. 5 ★★ Heldenplatz. ‘Heroes Square’, in front of the Neue Burg

Austria’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier—Castle Gate at Heldenplatz.

Jewish Vienna

I

‘ t is impossible to imagine what it means for one-sixth of the population to be made pariahs overnight, deprived of all human rights . . .’ wrote a wartime correspondent in 1938, describing the plight of Viennese Jews. Jews have been persecuted in this city on more than one occasion, despite their outstanding contribution to the arts, science, and politics. Their remarkable story is intrinsic to the history of Vienna.

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(see p 60, bullet 5) was built by the Habsburgs as a symbol of imperial strength. But it will go down in history as the scene of Hitler’s 1938 fateful speech to thousands of cheering Austrians when he announced the infamous Anschluss (Annexation), assimilating Austria into the Third Reich. By 1945, Heldenplatz had been ploughed up to plant vegetables to feed Vienna’s suffering citizens. Since 1955, the Burgtor (Castle Gate) on the south-western side of the square has served as Austria’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. @ 15min. Heldenplatz. Tram 1/2/D/J (Burgring).

6 ★★ Jüdisches Museum. The world’s first Jewish Museum opened in Vienna in 1895, but the exhibits were confiscated by the Nazis in 1938. Today’s museum opened in 1993 and contains an important collection of Judaica and an extraordinary fresco-like ‘Installation of Remembrance’. @ 45min. Dorotheer-

gasse 11. y 01 535 0431. www. jmw.at. Sun–Fri 10am–6pm.
6.50 adults,
4 concessions (free under 10). U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

7 ★★★ Staatsoper. The State Opera has always attracted top Image of Mahler in the Leopold Museum.

international conductors, including Richard Strauss, Herbert von Karajan, and Claudio Abbado. Its most controversial appointment was Jewish-born Gustav Mahler, who directed the opera-house for 10 years from 1897 to 1907. As this was an ‘imperial’ post and thus barred to Jews under Austro-Hungarian law, Mahler converted to Catholicism. During his tenure, Mahler made radical changes to operatic conventions, such as dimming audience lighting during the performance, shortening intervals, and seating late arrivals only during intermissions—now all standard practices worldwide. See p 38, bullet 7.

8 ★ Schwarzenbergplatz. This grandiose square was the seat of the military government during World War II, when it was known as ‘Stalinplatz’ and used for military parades. The giant bronze Russen Heldendenkmal (Russian Heroes Memorial) was created in 1945. Weighing 15 tons, it was made out of hundreds of melted-down busts of Hitler. Schwarzenbergplatz. Tram 1/2/D (Schwarzenbergplatz).

9 ★★ Arnold Schönberg Center. This archive center provides a unique insight into the life and

49

Many historians date the beginning of the Holocaust to November 9, 1938, when the Nazi government launched a vicious attack on the Jewish community throughout Germany and Austria. This was particularly ruthless in Vienna, where the Jewish population was around 200,000 (over 10% of the city’s inhabitants). Stormtroopers torched 42 of Vienna’s 43 synagogues, looted shops and businesses, and ransacked homes. The event became known as Kristallnacht—the ‘Night of Glass’—because of the shattered glass found on the pavements outside Jewish premises the following day.

music of the Jewish composer, who is now recognized as a profound influence on modern classical music. Initially, however, Schönberg’s innovative 12-tone compositions received a poor reception in Vienna and in 1933, perturbed by the rise of National Socialism, he emigrated to America. See p 38, bullet 8.

0 ★ Stadttempel. The City Synagogue, designed in 1826 by the renowned local architect Kornhäusel, was the only Viennese synagogue to survive Kristallnacht (see below), thanks largely to its concealed façade. Today it remains at the heart of Vienna’s Jewish community. Its impressive elliptical interior features a blue dome, marble columns, and a three-tiered gallery. Seitenstettengasse 2–4. y 01 531 04–0.
3 adults,
2 concessions. Guided tours only: 11.30am and 2pm, Mon–Thurs (except Jewish holidays). Bring your passport for ID and arrive 15 minutes beforehand. UBahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

! ★ Leopoldstadt. The city’s ancient Jewish district was created north of the Danube Canal in the Leopoldstadt quarter, following an imperial decree in 1624 that Jews had to live outside the city walls.

Half a century later, Emperor Leopold I expelled all Jews from Vienna, and the great synagogue was converted into the Church of St. Leopold. Today, parts of Leopoldstadt retain a Jewish atmosphere, with synagogues, kosher shops, and Jewish schools. Four slim columns (at Tempelgasse 5) mark the location of the former Great Temple, destroyed on Kristallnacht. U-Bahn 1 (Nestroyplatz). These four columns mark the site of Leopoldstadt’s former Great Temple.

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se

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T

he classic 1949 thriller The Third Man is an undisputed masterpiece of British film noir. Scripted by Graham Greene and directed by Carol Reed, it features a legendary performance by Orson Welles, who plays the central character Harry Lime. A multilayered film of friendship and betrayal, it provides a unique and authentic testimony of life in the bombed-out ruins of post-WorldWar-II Vienna.

1 ★★ Third Man Private Collection. Any fan of the cult movie should visit this tiny museum, which provides a fascinating insight into the making of The Third Man.

@ 45min. Pressgasse 25. y 01 586

4872. www.3mpc.net.
7.50 adults,
6 concessions,
5 kids (10–16). Sat 2pm–6pm (also Tues 6pm–8pm by prior arrangement). U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse).

2 ★ Beethovenplatz. The Beethoven statue here is featured at the start of the movie. Note the

advertising kiosk nearby. During police raids, black-market crooks would disappear into such kiosks, and then down a manhole into the sewers. Beethovenplatz. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark).

3 ★★ = Sewers. The climax of the movie takes place in the sewers, when Lime is eventually cornered by police and shot dead. The police enter the sewer system via a steel hatch (in Friedrichstrasse). This also marks the start of the city’s thrilling sewer tour. @ 1hr. Karlsplatz-

51

‘The Third Man’ in Vienna

Graham Greene’s favorite café.

Esperantopark. y 01 4000 3033.
7 adults,
5.50 concessions (minimum age 12). May–Oct, Thurs–Sun 10am–10pm (tours every hour). UBahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

4 ★ Imperial, Bristol & Sacher Hotels. In 1945 for ten years, Vienna was divided into international zones by the occupying Allied powers. The centre was an ‘international’ sector, with the American Intelligence based at Hotel Bristol, the Russians at the Imperial, and the British at the Sacher—where Martins stays in the film, and where Greene conceived the film from his intelligence cronies in the bar, including his boss the famous KGB double agent Kim Philby, the inspiration for Harry Lime. Kärtner Ring & Philharmonikerstrasse. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

5

Café Mozart. Inspired by Greene’s favorite café, musician Anton Karas composed a ‘Café Mozart Waltz’ for the movie. The café scenes were actually shot in a mocked-up set near the Kapuzinerkirche (Capuchin Church), because the square was still full of wartime rubble in 1948. Round the corner is Harry’s house, Palais Palavincini (in Josephsplatz). Albertinaplatz 2. y 01 241 00–0. $-$$. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

6 ★ Schreyvogelgasse 8. This is the site of one of the most dramatic moments in the movie when Harry emerges from the shadows, very much alive, in the doorway here on the Mölker Bastei. Schreyvogelgasse 8. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

7 ★★★ = Prater—Riesenrad. Ride on the 200ft Riesenrad ferris wheel, one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks, immortalized in the movie as the pivotal scene when Martins and Lime eventually meet and Martins learns the awful truth about his friend. See p 98, bullet 4. A cult address—Schreyvogelgasse 8.

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I

love Viennese churches. They showcase the city’s best architecture, and they also contain some of Vienna’s finest artworks and treasures. What’s more, they provide a fascinating historical record of the customs, traditions, and extraordinary burial rituals of the Viennese over the centuries.

1 ★★★ Stephansdom. There has been a church in Stephansplatz for over 800 years, but all that remains of the original 13th-century Romanesque building is the Riesentor (Giants’ Doorway) and the twin towers at the main entrance. The glorious Gothic nave, choir, and side-chapels date from the 14th and 15th centuries (some baroque chapels were added later). After extensive damage at the end of World War II, the citizens of Vienna financed the rebuilding of the cathedral as a symbol of national solidarity after the horrors of the Nazi regime. See p 11, bullet 3. 2 ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. See p 65, bullet !. 3 ★★★ Karlskirche. Vienna’s most impressive baroque church, and its most important sacred building after the Stephansdom. Visit it at sunset to see the magnificent dome at its best. See p 67, bullet 5. The Stephansdom’s intricately tiled roof is a sight to behold.

This angel on the façade of Karlskirche represents the New Testament.

4 ★★★ Kapuzinerkirche. The Church of Capuchin Friars resembles a country church, charming in its simplicity. Its main appeal is the spine-chilling Kaisergruft (Imperial Burial Vault), which served as the Habsburgs’ burial place for over 350 years—12 emperors and 19 empresses lie here in elaborate sarcophagi. A rather gruesome Habsburg mortuary ritual was to inter the hearts of the imperial family separately in the crypt of the Augustinerkirche (see below), while the intestines were placed in copper urns in the catacombs beneath the Stephansdom. @ 45min. Tegethoffs-

trasse 2. y 01 512 6853–16. www.kaisergruft.at.
4 adults,
3 concessions,
1.50 kids,
9 family. 10am–6pm (last admission 5.40pm). Tram D/J/1/2 (Oper).

55

strasse 3 (entrance on Josefsplatz). y 01 533 7090. www.augustiner kirche.at. Free admission. Open 8am–6pm. U3 (Herrengasse).

6

Augustinerkeller. Head here for hearty Austrian specialties washed down by local wines or beer on tap, in a snug, brick-vaulted bar set in former monastery cellars. Jolly live music plays every evening from 6.30pm. Augustinerstrasse 1.

y 01 533 1026. $$. 7 ★ Michaelerkirche. St. Michael’s Church is a hotchpotch of Hard to believe the beautiful Maria am Gestade was once used as an arsenal and stables.

Best Churches

5 ★ Augustinerkirche. The former Court Church has witnessed numerous imperial weddings over the centuries, including Marie Louise’s marriage to Napoleon in 1810 and that of Franz Joseph I to Sisi in 1854. Besides a stunning Gothic interior, it is renowned for the pyramidal tomb of Maria Christina by the Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova. Its crypt houses 54 silver casks containing the hearts of the Habsburgs (see above). @ 20min. Augustiner-

This lion guards Maria Christina’s tomb in Augustinerkirche.

styles from Romanesque to baroque. Its main point of interest is the crypt. During the 17th and 18th centuries, parishioners were usually buried beneath their church—wellpreserved corpses are still visible in open coffins. @ 1hr (including 40min tour of crypt). Michaelerplatz.

y 0650 533 8003. www.michaeler gruft.at.
5. Mon, Tues, Thurs–Sat 11am, 1.30pm, Wed 11am (Easter– Nov), by appointment only in winter. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

8 ★★ Peterskirche. See p 63, bullet 5. 9 ★★★ Maria am Gestade. ‘St. Mary on the Riverbank’—my favorite church—is a jewel of Gothic architecture, with slender vaults, buttresses, and a canopied porch. Built on a steep bank, it originally overlooked the Danube. The main door resembles a ship’s prow, and its delicate seven-sided filigree tower served as a landmark for boatmen approaching the city. Don’t miss the Gothic stained glass in the choir inside. More would have survived, had Napoleon’s troops not used the church as an arsenal and stables during their occupation of Vienna in 1809. @ 20min. Salvator-

gasse 12. y 01 533 9594–0. www.maria-am-gestade.redemptoristen.at.8am–3pm. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

58

W

ith the demolition of the old city walls and the construction of the magnificent Ringstrasse, Emperor Franz Josef ushered in a new era of grandeur in his expansion of the inner city in the 19th century. Today this circular boulevard still separates the historic city center from the suburbs. It is as grand now as it was then, and it’s fun and easy to explore by tram. Just hop aboard tram 1 or 2 for a whistle-stop tour.

1 ★★★ Staatsoper. The world1955 with a triumphant performance of Beethoven’s Fidelio. See famous State Opera was the first of p 18, bullet 9. the monumental new public buildings on the Ringstrasse. It was 2 ★★ Burggarten. built in the Historicist (neoWith its duck pond, butterfly Renaissance) style in house, fine statuary, and 1861–9 by architects Nüll magnificent Jugendstil and Sicardsburg. Harsh glasshouse (see criticism from the pubp 35, bullet ), this lic, who thought the beautiful English-style opera-house looked park was originally like a railway station, reserved for the drove Nüll to commit emperor’s family. It suicide and, a few was opened to the weeks later—before public in 1919 and is the project was comnow one of the city’s pleted—a distressed most popular open Sicardsburg died from spaces. Burgring. Daily a heart attack. The This sculpture of King 6am–10pm. Tram building was badly Thutmosis III at the KHM 1/2/D/J (Burgring). damaged in World War dates from around 1460BC. 3 ★★★ KunsthisII. Ironically, the Vientorisches Museum (KHM). See nese were keen to restore it to its p 18, bullet 8. former glory after the war, and the opera-house finally reopened in

=

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59

Museum (NHM). Trace the history of the planet and admire a multiplicity of animal species on display at the Natural History Museum. This huge museum is a mirror-image of the grand Renaissance-style

Kunsthistorisches Museum on the opposite side of the Ringstrasse. Within its majestic display halls lies a bewildering array of archeological, anthropological, mineralogical, zoological, and geological specimens.

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The ground floor’s B mineralogical collection contains over a thousand different mineral specimens (Halls I–III) and one of Europe’s most valuable gem collections (Hall IV). Look out for the valuable bouquet of jewels given by Maria Theresa to her husband. C Halls V–VI display hundreds of meteorites and moon-rocks, and show how the earth is affected by day, night, the changing seasons, ocean currents, and ozone layers. The D prehistory section contains the world’s largest display of human skulls. Kids love the mezzanine floor and especially E Room 10 with its massive dinosaur skeletons,

including a Diplodocus—the longest terrestrial vertebrate that has ever lived at 90ft (27m). In F Room VII, a fossil of the world’s largest spider is not for the squeamish. The first floor covers ecology, with room after room of every type of G stuffed animal imaginable, including numerous species now extremely endangered or extinct. @ 2–3 hr. Maria There-

sien-Platz, Burgring 7. y 01 521 77-0. www.nhm-wien.ac.at.
8 adults,
6 concessions,
3.50 kids (free under 5),
16–
10 family card. Wed–Mon 9am–6.30pm (until 9pm Wed). Tram D/J/1/2 (Dr-Karl-Renner Ring, Naturhistorisches Museum).

The Ringstrasse

4 ★★★ = Naturhistorisches

60

The Best Special-Interest Tours

New Town Hall is the showiest building on the Ringstrasse. Atop the main tower is a statue of a knight holding a lance, affectionately called the Rathausmann. There is a flag attached to the lance, with a star at the top, which also serves as a lightning conductor. The large square in front of the town hall always seems to have some sort of festivity: openair cinema in summer; ice-skating in winter; and—my favorite—the Christmas market (Christkindlmarkt). Rathausplatz. y 01 52550. Guided tours Mon, Wed, Fri 1pm. Free admission. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). Skeleton of a Tryceratops head, Natural History Museum.

5 ★ Neue Burg. Emperor Franz Joseph had plans for two crescentshaped buildings in his Neue Burg (New Castle), but only one was completed before the Habsburg Empire collapsed in 1918. Today, this vast edifice, with its colonnaded façade, houses several museums. The Ephesus Museum (Greek and Roman antiquities), the Imperial Armory (Europe’s most comprehensive weaponry collection), and the Old Musical Instruments Collection (see p 37, bullet 4) are all worth a visit.

@ 1–2hr. Heldenplatz. y 01 525

24–0. www.khm.at. Combined admission for all three museums:
8 adults,
6 concessions,
3 kids,
16 family,
3 audio guide. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. Tram 1/2/D/J (Burgring).

6 ★ Parliament. The Greek-style Parliament building makes a dignified landmark with its classical columns and statues of Greek philosophers. The first Austrian Republic was proclaimed from the Parliament steps in October 1918. Dr-Karl-Renner-Ring 3. Free admission. Mon–Fri 7am–7pm. Tram D/J/1/2 (Dr-Karl-Renner Ring, Naturhistorisches Museum).

8 ★★ Burgtheater. The most prestigious theater venue in the German-speaking world is known not only for drama but also for its grand staircases and frescoes by Gustav Klimt. Constructed in Italian Renaissance style in 1888, the theater was rebuilt following severe damage during World War II. Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2. y 01 514 444 140. www.burg theater.at. Tours daily 3pm (also 2pm July–Aug). Tram D/1/2 (Burgtheater).

9

Café Landtmann. Ignore the ugly modern sun-terrace outside and step indoors to a fin-de-siècle wonderland of ornate mirrors and paneled wood. Coffee and cake here is a quintessential experience. No wonder this was Freud’s favorite café. DrKarl-Lueger-Ring 4. y 01 24100. $$.

0 ★ Votivkirche. See p 72, bullet 6. ! ★ Börse. See p 72, bullet 7. @ ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. See p 65, bullet !. # ★★ Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK). See p 12, bullet 5.

7 ★★ = Neues Rathaus.

$ ★★ = Stadtpark.

Festooned with ornamental tracery, loggias, and spires, the neo-Gothic

See p 94.

3

The Best Neighborhood Walks

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Stephansdom District

63

his is a walk to suit the whole family. It takes you right to the historic heart of Vienna, to the foundations of ancient Roman Vindobona, and to some of the city’s oldest inns and churches. Explore the atmospheric maze of medieval alleyways surrounding Stephansdom, visit the Mozarthaus, and enjoy the smart shops of the Graben—as well as the best apple strudel in town.

1 ★★★ Stephansdom. See p 11, bullet 3. 2 ★★ Haas Haus. Created by Hans Hollein in the 1980s, this curvaceous building of polished granite, concrete, and glass, which houses a boutique hotel on the 6th and 7th floor, is one of Vienna’s most controversial pieces of modern architecture. Love it or hate it, it offers tremendous views of the Stephansdom from the rooftop bar (6th floor) and restaurant (7th floor). Stock-im-Eisenplatz. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

3 ★★ Graben. This broad, pedestrianized shopping street was once the town moat, hence the name Graben (ditch). It later became a marketplace and is now one of the city’s finest boulevards. All the buildings date from the baroque, 19thcentury or Belle Époque eras, and many still bear their K.u.K. (Kaiserlich und Königlich—Imperial and Royal) warrant. The exuberant baroque Pestsäule (Plague Column) in the middle of the street was erected to commemorate Vienna’s deliverance from the plague of 1679. Graben. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

4

★★★ Meinl am Graben. Join shoppers on the sun-terrace for coffee and cake at Vienna’s most elegant café-delicatessen. At the junction of two fashionable shopping streets, it’s a prime spot for peoplewatching (see p 63). Kohlmarkt 1.

y 01 532 3334. $–$$$.

The Plague Column on the Graben.

5 ★★ Peterskirche. St. Peter’s is my favorite baroque church. Full of pomp and grandeur, yet intimate at the same time, its superb acoustics make it a marvelous concert venue. I love the graceful oval nave and the pews, each decorated with three carved angels’ heads, but the artistic pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the spectacular fresco on the domed ceiling entitled The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, by Michael Rottmayr. @ 30min. Peter-

splatz. y 01 533 6433. Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat–Sun 8am–8pm. Occasional free concerts (including daily organ recitals at 3pm in summer). U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

Stephansdom District

T

The Best Neighborhood Walks

64

6 ★★ Neidhart Frescoes. One of Vienna’s best-kept secrets, these richly colored wall paintings are the oldest secular frescoes in the city. They were commissioned by a cloth merchant around the year 1407. Their scenes of love and revelry (depicting the four seasons) were inspired by the songs of the lyrical poet Neidhart von Reuenthal, who revived the courtly love song in the early Middle Ages. Fun and frivolous, they give a lively and humorous insight into medieval life.

@ 30min. Tuchlauben 19. y 01 535 9065. www.wienmuseum.at.
2 adults,
1 concessions, kids, free admission on Sun. Tues 10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm, Fri–Sun 2pm–6pm. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

The fez-wearing Meinl Moor—the symbol of Vienna’s finest deli and a reminder of the city’s Turkish coffee origins.

7

8 ★★★ = Mozarthaus. It is

★★★ Café Korb. The main reason to take a break here is to try the scrumptious Apfelstrudel (apple strudel)—quite the best I’ve tasted. The pavement terrace with its tiny fountain is a pleasant place to sit and write postcards, or to catch up with the news from the pile of international newspapers. Brandstätte 9.

y 01 533 7215. $–$$. Peterskirche is hidden just off the Graben.

easy to imagine Mozart living in this apartment for four years with his young family, a dog, and a songbird, thanks to the paintings, estate deeds, letters, death mask, manuscripts, and musical instruments on display. See p 12, bullet 4.

9 ★ Franziskanerkirche. The Franciscan Church is the only church in Vienna with a Renaissance façade. The interior is a striking blend of Gothic and northern Renaissance style, with numerous later baroque features. The square outside contains a copy of an 18thcentury Moses Fountain (the original was melted down by the Nazis) and the charming pint-sized Kleines Café. @ 20min. Franziskanerplatz. y 01 512 4578. Daily 8am–6pm. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). 0 ★ Jesuitenkirche. The Jesuit Church, built in 1627, is one of the city’s finest baroque churches, decked in a profusion of pink granite and gilt. The Italian tromp-l’oeil artist Andrea Pozzo remodeled the interior in the early 18th century,

65

Stephansdom District

adding its impressive frescoes and a false ‘dome’ on a flat part of the ceiling. Stand in the nave on the spot marked with a white stone to see this ingenious illusion. @ 20min.

Dr Ignaz Seipel-Platz. y 01 512 5232. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat–Sun 8am–7pm. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor).

! ★★★ Ruprechtskirche. I love the simplicity of this tiny ivy-clad Romanesque church—Vienna’s oldest. Set in a quiet, cobbled square off the beaten tourist track, it is dedicated to St. Rupert, the patron saint of salt merchants and the first Bishop of Salzburg. Salt barges would once have passed by this church on the banks of the Danube. A statue of St. Rupert, clutching a barrel of salt, can be found halfhidden among bushes behind the church. Visit in the morning when the ancient stained-glass windows bathe the interior in brightly colored light. @ 20min. Ruprechtsplatz. y 01 535 6003. Mon, Wed, Fri

10am–noon, Tues, Thurs 2–4pm, Fri 9pm–midnight. Free admission. UBahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

@ ★★★ Hoher Markt. Most visitors head towards Vienna’s oldest square, site of a medieval fish-market, to see the splendid Jugendstil clock known as the Ankeruhr. Every hour on the hour, historical figures You’re never far from a Wuerstelstand in Vienna.

The Anker clock at Hoher Markt.

(including the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius, Duke Rudolf IV, and Joseph Haydn) parade across the golden clock-face. It’s best viewed at noon, when all the figures emerge. Beneath the square, you can see the city’s best-preserved Roman remains in the small but fascinating Römermuseum, where the legionary fortress of Vindobona stood nearly 2,000 years ago.

@ 45min. Hoher Markt 3. y 01 535

5606. www.wienmuseum.at.
4 adults,
3 concessions (OAPs, VCs, kids), free under 6,
10 family, free Sun. Tues–Sun 9am–6pm. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

# ★ = Würstelstand. Night owls meet early birds here (open 8am-4am) for coffee, refreshments, or a snack—sausages, kebabs, pizza and so on. After an evening partying in the bars of the nearby ‘Bermuda Triangle’ night zone (around Rotenturmstrasse), I recommend the hearty Käsekrainer sausages, made with grilled meat and cheese. Schwedenplatz. No phone. $.

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The Bestr. Neighborhood Walks

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love the extravagance of the Belvedere district. Vienna’s aristocracy built their lavish summer residences in the countryside here during the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, this charming district of palaces and parks takes life at a sedate pace, despite being so close to the city center.

1 ★★ Musikverein. See p 13, bullet 7. 2 ★ Kunstlerhaus. The Artists’ House was commissioned in 1868 by the Austrian Artists’ Association as an exhibition hall for its members, and is still a popular venue for temporary exhibitions. Its architecture is a typical example of the Ringstrasse’s pompous historical style. Karlsplatz 5. y 01 587 9663. www.k-haus.at. Daily 10am–6pm (Thurs until 9pm). U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

3 ★★ Otto Wagner Pavilions. See p 33, bullet 2. 4 ★★★ Wien Museum. See p 16, bullet 1. 5 ★★★ Karlskirche. The colossal dome of this high-baroque church dominates the square of Karlsplatz on which it stands. Designed in 1716 by Fischer von Erlach, the Karlskirche showcases the work of the most important

architects and artists of the time. It was originally commissioned by Emperor Karl VI, who made a solemn vow to build a great church during a virulent outbreak of plague in 1713. It is dedicated to the emperor’s namesake, St. Carlo Borromeo, the patron saint of plagues. Its remarkable architectural complexity pays homage to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, to the Roman emperors Augustus and Trajan, and to the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem. St. Carlo sits happily on top of the portico alongside statues of Religion, Mercy, Repentance, and Piety, flanked by two angels representing the Old and New Testaments. The triumphal pillars (modeled on Trajan’s Column in Rome and crowned by imperial eagles) show scenes from Borromeo’s life. Unlike some baroque churches, the oval interior is light and airy, and its decoration is agreeably restrained. The frescoes by Michael Rottmayr are especially

It’s hard to beat Karlskirche for Baroque architectural extravagance.

The Belvedere

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The Best Neighborhood Walks

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fine. Karlsplatz. y 01 504 6187. www.karlskirche.at.
6 adults,
4 students & kids (free under 10). Open Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm, 1–6pm, Sun 1–6pm. Holy Mass Mon–Sat 6pm, Sun 11am & 6pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

6 ★ Lower

(Beautiful View). @ 30min. Rennweg 6/Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27.y 01 7984 1120. Apr–Oct 6am–6pm (until 8pm May–June, 9pm July–Aug), Nov–Mar 6.30am–6pm. Free. Tram 71 (Unteres Belvedere), Tram D (Schloss Belvedere).

8 ★★★ Upper Belvedere. The

finer of Prince Eugene’s two summer palaces now contains the AusEugene of Savoy, the trian Gallery, with art most important milidating from the tary commander of Middle Ages to his day, had not the present day. one but two Medieval and grandiose baroque baroque summer resiart is Statue from the Upper Belvedere— dences built by on the ground Prince Eugene’s grand summer palace. Johann Lukas von floor, with neoHildebrandt on a classicism, low hill with exceptional views over Romanticism, and Viennese Biederthe city center. The state rooms of meier on the second floor. The real the lower palace provide a fascinatcrowd-puller, however, is Austrian ing insight into baroque interior art from the 19th and 20th cendesign, and create an impressive turies, which includes the world’s backdrop for temporary exhibitions. largest collection of works by Klimt.

Belvedere. Prince

@ 45min. The quietest time to visit is during lunch-hour. Rennweg 6. y 01 795 5720-0. www.belvedere.at.
9.50 adults,
7.50 concessions,
3.50 kids (free under 5),
20 family (combined tickets with the Upper Belvedere are also available). Daily 10am–6pm (9pm on Wed). Tram 71 (Unteres Belvedere).

7 ★★ = Belvedere Gardens. The two Belvedere palaces are linked together by a strictly symmetrical French-style garden laid out on a gently sloping hill. Look out for the white marble fountains, stone sphinxes (symbols of strength and intelligence), and 12 charming putti (cherubic statues) on the steps (representing months of the year). On the upper terrace, the spectacular cityscape has barely changed over the centuries and is especially dramatic at sunset. Little wonder the palace is called ‘Belvedere’

9

★★ Belvedere Café. This traditional café in the Upper Belvedere is the perfect spot to enjoy a drink and a gooey cream-cake after viewing the galleries. Try the specialty ‘Klimt’ coffee (served with amaretto cream)—it’s delicious. Prinz-Eugen-

Strasse 27. y 01 798 8888. $–$$.

0 ★★ Alpine & Botanical Gardens. Vienna’s Botanical Gardens were created in the 18th-century to cultivate medicinal herbs. Few people discover the tiny adjoining Alpine Garden. It’s one of my favorite spots to sit and relax in summer. @ 45min. Landstrasser

Gürtel 3. y 01 798 3149. www. bundesgarten.at.
3.20 adults,
2.80/
2.50 concessions,
1.30 kids (over 3). Daily 10am–6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Tram D (Schloss Belvedere).

69

T HI R D FL O O R

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Featured Exhibits Stairs Food & Drink

FIR S T FL O O R Start on the first floor in the ‘Vienna 1880–1900’ section to admire an early Klimt portrait of _ Sonja Knips (1898) in an Impressionistic style, and + Spring at the Prater by Tina Blau (1882). The next section—’Vienna around 1900’—marks a shift from historicism to modernity, through a series of { French Impressionist paintings by Monet, Renoir, and Van Gogh. The highlights of the museum’s Jugendstil collection are in Room 3, with Klimt’s two famous ‘golden phase’ pictures: } The Kiss, and Judith. Further noteworthy works by Klimt include

Gift Shop Information

Room 4) and the unfinished

: Bride (1918, Room 5). The remaining rooms move towards Expressionism with important works by Schiele, Gerstl, Oppenheimer, Boeckl, and Munch.

@ 1hr. Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27.

y 01 795 57–0. www.belvedere.at.
9.50 adults,
7.50 concessions,
3.50 kids (free under 5),
20 family (combined tickets with the Lower Belvedere are also available),
3 audio guide, 30min guided tours cost
3 extra (11am, 12.30pm in German; 11.30am in English; noon in Italian). Daily 10am–6pm. Tram D (Schloss Belvedere).

| Adam and Eve (1917–18, ! ★★ = Museum of Military History. Housed within the impressive, fortress-style Arsenal building, this superb museum presents the nation’s military prowess from the 16th century to the present. @ 1hr. Arsenal: Objekt 18,

Ghegastrasse. y 01 795 61–0. www.hgm.or.at.
5.10 adults,
3.30 concessions,
7.30 family, free under 10, free on the first Sun of each month,
1.50 audio guide. Daily 9am–7pm, tank garden 9am–4.45pm. Tram D (Südbahnhof).

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The Best Neighborhood Walks

Schottenring & Alsergrund

71

hese intimate districts just north of the city center claim a surprising variety of sights, from the Freyung’s handsome palaces to the laid-back university district of Alsergrund. The Serviten quarter is especially picturesque: its cobbled streets, boutiques, and pavement cafés are Vienna’s answer to Paris’s St-Germain-des-Prés.

1 ★ Schottenkirche. Vienna’s ‘Scottish Church’ has nothing to do with Scotland. It was founded in 1155 by Duke Heinrich II who brought monks to Vienna from Ireland (which was then known as Scotia Maior). The adjoining monastery (Schottenkloster) remained independent of ducal authority, and had the right to shelter asylum-seekers, hence the name of the square here—Freyung (from frey meaning ‘free’). The church was remodeled during the baroque period, and it’s worth a peep inside to see the rich if somewhat gloomy interior. Frustratingly, the main nave is locked to visitors except during services.

@ 10min. Freyung 6. y 01 5349

8200. www.schottenpfarre.at. Daily 9am–8pm. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

2 ★★★ Freyung. This spacious, triangular, cobbled square is essential viewing for architecture fans. Dominated by the Schottenkirche, it was once the city’s main rubbish dump. Now, together with adjoining Herrengasse (Lord’s Lane), it is lined with imposing baroque palaces formerly owned by the Viennese aristocracy. Many of these are currently used as government offices and embassies. They include the beautifully restored Palais Kinsky, Palais Harrach (where Joseph Haydn’s

The Freyung’s ‘Austria Fountain’.

mother was the family cook), and Italianate-style Palais Ferstel, which housed the Vienna Stock Exchange until 1877. The quaint covered alleyways and courtyards of this district contain alluring boutiques and upmarket restaurants. Freyung Passage, leading to the famous Café Central (see below), is particularly elegant. In the middle of the square is the celebrated Austria Fountain, whose four bronze figures symbolize the principal rivers of AustriaHungary (the Elbe, Vistula, Danube, and Po), crowned by an allegorical statue of Austria. The Schottenkirche’s tower dominates the Freyung square.

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The Best Neighborhood Walks

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On alternate weekends the square is transformed into a farmers’ market (y 0664 531 7301 for details), providing a chance to taste delicious organic produce from Lower Austria. Freyung. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

3

★★ Café Central. This splendid coffee house was once Vienna’s most important literary rendezvous, frequented by eminent local writers such as Kraus, Bahr, and Altenberg. Trotsky used to play chess with Stalin under the vaulted arches. Now popular with tourists, it serves reliable (if pricey) café cuisine. Herrengasse 14 (corner Strauchgasse). y 01 533 3764–26. $$.

4 ★★★ Pasqualati Haus. See p 37, bullet 1. 5 ★ Dreimäderlhaus. Just round the corner from the Pasqualati Haus, you’ll find one of Vienna’s most appealing Biedermeier houses. Legend has it three sweethearts (drei Mäderl) of Franz Schubert once lived here, as recounted in the 1920s’ operetta of the same name, which contains the Viennese composer’s Votivkirche—easy to confuse in appearance with Stephansdom.

Café Central—a celebrated tourist honey-pot.

melodies. Schreyvogelgasse 10. UBahn 2 (Schottentor).

6 ★ Votivkirche. The striking white sandstone Votive Church, designed by Heinrich von Ferstel, was erected as a thanksgiving after a failed attempt on the life of Emperor Franz Joseph in 1853. It was one of the first buildings constructed on the new Ringstrasse, and is Vienna’s most important example of the neoGothic style, distinguished by its patterned roof and lacy twin spires. The interior is rather impersonal, but it does contain some notable frescoes and a carved altar depicting the Passion of Christ. Rooseveltplatz 8.

y 01 405 1192. www.votivkirche.at. Sun 9am–1pm, Tues–Sat 9am–1pm, 4pm–6pm, closed Mon. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

7 ★ Börse. Vienna’s Stock Exchange is one of the most elegant buildings on the Ringstrasse. Constructed in 1877 by the acclaimed architect Theophil Hansen (who also built the Parlament and Burgtheater), it is noteworthy for its handsome red brickwork (known locally as Hansenrot) and white stonework cornices. Schottenring 20. y 01 531 650.

73

8 ★ Siegmund Freud Museum. One of Vienna’s most famous citizens, the physician Siegmund Freud (1856–1939) lived in this apartment for most of his life. The museum has few original artifacts or furnishings, but a fascinating photogallery casts a revealing light on the father of psychoanalysis. For decades, Freud was regarded as a leading figure in world of medicine, but his Jewish background prevented him from becoming a professor of Vienna’s University until 1902. He was eventually driven from the city by the Nazis in 1937. @ 30min.

Burggasse 19. y 01 319 1596. www.freud-museum.at.
7 adults,
5.50/
4.50 concessions,
2.50 kids.
2 audio guide. Daily 9am–5pm (6pm July–Sept). U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

9 ★ Servitenkirche. You’ll find this little church in the middle of the atmospheric Serviten quarter. Even though it is a little out of the way, it’s Dine al fresco at the Summer Stage.

worth a visit to admire the extravagant baroque interior, which served as a model for the Karlskirche. Frustratingly, you have to peer through iron railings, as the nave is only open during services. Servitengasse 9. y 01 317 6195–0. U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände).

0

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★★★ Summer Stage. A holiday atmosphere spreads along the Danube Canal during the summer months. This lively open-air bar and restaurant zone, open from May through September, offers plenty for all the family. Tempting eateries and cool cocktail bars line the canal banks, providing live music and entertainment most nights. Try Oasia (y 0699 8128 5540, $) for Asian cuisine or Piranha (y 0699 1501 5013, $–$$) for steaks and burgers. There’s also trampolining, boules, beach volleyball, and a kids’ club at weekends. Rossauer Lände. y 01 315 5202. Mon–Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 3pm–1am. U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände).

Schottenring & Alsergrund

Closed to visitors. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

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The Best Neighborhood Walks

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I

t would be easy to spend all day at the MuseumsQuartier (Museum Quarter)—one of Vienna’s most popular areas. It has a superb mix of modern architecture, world-class galleries, and family attractions. However, just round the corner, two of the city’s most attractive and beguiling quarters also await your discovery—Spittelberg and Josefstadt—with their cobbled streets and enticing bars and restaurants. unremarkable red-brick building. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 521 8933. www.kunsthallewien.at.
7.50 adults
6/
4 concessions (depending on exhibition). Daily 10am–7pm (until 10pm Thurs). U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

4

=

Relax in the MQ complex.

★★ My two favorite lunch spots here are the cheap, familyfriendly MQ Daily (Museumsplatz 1, y 01 522 4524, $) for soups, salads, and pasta; or the more sophisticated MUmokka terrace café (Museumsplatz 1, y 01 525 001 440, $$), which serves tempting open sandwiches, cheese platters, and fresh juices.

1 ★★★ = ZOOM Kindermuseum. A superb interactive

5 ★ Architekturzentrum Wien. This small Architecture Cen-

museum devoted solely to kids. See p 44, bullet 7.

2 ★★★ Leopold Museum. This major gallery hosts a leading collection of 19th- and 20th-century Austrian art, belonging to Viennese aficionados Rudolf and Elizabeth Leopold. The main Jugendstil and Secessionist collections are on the ground floor, alongside some important canvases by Klimt, Gerstl, and Moser, but the main draw is the world’s largest assembly of works by Egon Schiele. 3 ★ KUNSTHALLE wien. The temporary exhibitions of modern art at the Vienna Art Gallery enjoy international repute, despite their location within an architecturally

ter provides a vivid account of 20thand 21st-century Austrian architecture, through models, interactive displays, and photographs. The only controversial omission is Hundertwasser (see p 22), who is apparently considered to be more of an artist than an architect. @ 45min. Muse-

umsplatz 1. y 01 522 3115. www.azw.at. Daily 10am–7pm.
5 adults,
3.50 concessions,
8 family, free under 6. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

6 ★ MUMOK (Museum of Modern Art). The dramatic cuboid exterior of the Museum of Modern Art (MOMUK) is undeniably impressive, clad in sleek gray basalt. The interior, although it lacks natural

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The lower ground floor contains the great j Egon Schiele Collection with numerous drawings by one of the most notable early Existentialists and Expressionists, including the poignant Mother and Daughter (1913) and Edith Schiele in a Striped Dress (1915). On the ground floor, the k Jugendstil

Oppenheimer; and the n winter landscapes of Alfons Walde,

and Secessionist paintings

p Wiener Werkstätte furniture and decorative items by

include canvases by Schiele, Gerstl, and Klimt. The l second-floor café is worth a stop, before moving on to the brilliant collection of

who worked for years to perfect his portrayal of snow. The 4th floor contains yet more impressive paintings by Klimt, including Attersee (1901), and the celebrated o Death and Life (1911–15). Some exquisite

Moser, Loos, and Hoffmann can also be seen on this floor. @ 2hr.

gems here are works by Schiele (including Self-Portrait —1910), Kokoschka, Huber, Boeckl, and

Museumsplatz. y 01 525 70–0. www.leopoldmuseum.org.
10 adults,
6.50 concessions,
3 audio guide. Daily 10am–7pm (until 10pm Thurs). U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

light, contains a significant collection of modern and contemporary art, covering a broad spectrum of genres from Cubism and Expressionism to Photo Realism, Fluxus, and Nouveau Réalisme. Its

acclaimed Pop Art section contains works by Warhol, Jasper Johns, Liechtenstein, and Rauschenberg. The highly controversial Viennese Actionism collection—one of the most extreme of all modern-art

m Expressionist and inter-war paintings on the 3rd floor. The real

The MuseumsQuartier (MQ)

Leopold Museum

The Best Neighborhood Walks

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The distinctive grey basalt façade of the Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK).

movements—is the largest in the world. Frustratingly, only a small selection of the museum’s artworks is ever on view at a time. @ 1hr.

Museumsplatz 1. y 01 52500. www.mumok.at.
9 adults,
6.50 concessions,
7.20 OAPs. Daily 10am–6pm (to 9pm Thurs) U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

7 ★★★ Spittelberg. Just behind the MuseumsQuartier (between Breitergasse, Siebensterngasse, Sigmundgasse, and Burggasse), this romantic, pedestrianized district of narrow, cobbled streets—with pretty Biedermeier houses and fountainsplashed squares—epitomizes oldworld Vienna at its most appealing. Formerly a red-light district servicing the nearby barracks, Spittelberg became a fashionable place to live in the 1970s and is now one of the city’s most desirable addresses: an enclave of galleries, cosy Beisls (traditional Austrian country-style inns), and pavement cafés. The Christmas market held here is one of Vienna’s best (and certainly the most picturesque), selling high-quality handicrafts and Glühwein. www.spittelberg.at. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

8 ★★ Josefstadt. When I’ve had my fill of the grand museums and monumental architecture in the city center, one of my favorite districts to

explore is Josefstadt, named after Josef I, as the plans for the area were laid out during his reign. This genteel residential quarter still feels like an 18th-century Viennese village, with its mix of Biedermeier architecture, handsome churches, curious shops, and small leafy parks. At its heart is the popular Josefstadt Theater (Vienna’s oldest), and some friendly bars and restaurants. The Maria Treu Kirche (1716) is the finest church here, containing an organ once played by the composer Anton Bruckner. Bring your binoculars to examine the frescoes on its splendid baroque ceiling. Beethoven’s funeral took place in the nearby Dreifaltigkeitskirche (Holy Trinity Church) in 1827. Just round the corner, the charming Museum für Völkskunde (Folklore Museum) portrays rural Austrian life through handcrafted sculptures, rural paintings, and furniture from throughout the region. Josefstadt’s elegance fades as you approach the Gürtel ring-road, where a host of late-night bars and clubs compete for your attention. Josefstadt. Volkskundemuseum: Laudongasse 15–18. y 01 406 8905. www.volkskundemuseum.at.
5 adults,
3.50 kids,
9 family. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Tram 5/33 or Bus 13A (Laudongasse). Atnon Bruckner once played at the Maria Treu Kirche in Josefstadt.

4

The Best Shopping

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Shopping Best Bets Most Trendy Interior Design

Best for Treasure-Hunting

★★ das möbel > das geschäft, Gumpendorferstraße 11 (p 85)

★★ Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17 (p 85)

Best for Gourmands

Best for Classical Music

★★★ Meinl am Graben, Graben 19 (p 88)

★★ Arcadia, Kärtnerstrasse 40 (p 92)

Best Austrian Designs

Best Lederhosen

★★★ artup, Bauernmarkt 8 (p 87)

★★★ Tostmann Trachten, Schottengasse 3a (p 88)

Best Boutique for Fashionistas ★★ Mühlbauer Mode, Seilergasse 5 (p 87)

Best Foot Forward ★★★ Ludwig Reiter, Mölkersteig 1 (p 87)

Best Hot-Date Lingerie ★★ Wolford, Graben 16 (p 88)

Best for Chocoholics ★★★ Xocolat, Freyung 2 (Im Passage) (p 90)

Best Glass ★★ J & L Lobmeyr, Kärtnerstrasse 26 (p 86); ★★ Swarovski, Kärtnerstrasse 8 (p 91)

Best Cakes ★★★ Sacher Confiserie, Philharmonikerstrasse 4 (p 89); ★★★ Demel, Kohlmarkt 14 (p 88)

Best to Placate the Kids ★★★ Mädchen und Buben, Servitengasse 4A (p 90)

Best Quirky Gifts ★★★ MAK Design Shop, Stubenring 5 (p 92)

Best Picnic Supplies ★★★ Naschmarkt, Naschmarkt (p 89)

Most Unusual Shop ★★★ phil, Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12 (p 86)

Most Environmentally Friendly Lifestyle ★ Grüne Erde, Mariahilferstrasse 9 (p 86)

Best for Posh Porcelain ★★★ Augarten, Stock-im-EisenPlatz 3 (p 85)

Best for Maps & Travel Guides ★★ Freytag & Berndt, Kohlmarkt 9 (p 85)

Most Stylish Jugendstil Souvenirs ★★ Lichterloh, Gumpendorferstrasse 15-17 (p 86)

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Art & Antiques ★★ Dorotheum CITY CENTER Pick up some unusual and authentic treasures at this world-renowned auction house, which holds regular sales of paintings, furniture, jewelry, decorative objects, and toys. Dorotheergasse 17. y 01 515 60-0. www.dorotheum.at. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★ Galerie Anno 1900 NEUBAU Quaint and quirky, this Aladdin’s Cave is full of specialist Art Deco and Jugendstil antiques—especially ornaments, glassware, clocks, and lamps. Burggasse 24 (corner Kirchengasse).

y 01 523 8477. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 84.

Beauty Products ★★ Kiehl’s CITY CENTER It’s hard to believe this cult cosmetics brand started out over 150 years ago in a small New York apothecary. This is Austria’s only branch. Their ‘Facial Fuel’ moisturizer is a great pick-meup for weary travelers. Tuchlauben 23. y 01 532 2011. www.kiehls.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.

★ Olivarium SCHOTTENRING Pamper yourself with delicious soaps, toiletries, and beauty products—all made with olive oil. Also olives, oils, tapenades, and handcarved olivewood items. Passage im Palais Ferstel, Freyung 2. y 01 252 3535. www.olivarium.com. DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.

24. y 01 512 1945. www.britishbook shop.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 81.

★★ Freytag & Berndt CITY CENTER A staggering collection of maps and travel guides (many in English) on Vienna, the Wienerwald, Austria, and the rest of the world, housed in a magnificent Jugendstil house. Kohlmarkt 9. y 01 533 8685. www.freytagberndt.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82. ★★ Shakespeare & Co CITY CENTER I could spend hours browsing in this higgledy-piggledy, old-fashioned bookshop, containing a huge array of English-language books (including Austrian authors in translation). Sterngasse 2. y 01 535 5053. www.shakespeare.co.at. MC. V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 82.

Design & Interiors ★★★ Augarten CITY CENTER Some of the exquisite patterns of the former imperial porcelain manufacturer are centuries old, including hand-decorated rose chinaware, designed in the 18th century for Empress Maria Theresa. Stock-imEisen-Platz 3. y 01 512 1494. www. augarten.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

★ Butlers NEUBAU This jampacked shop is full of tempting ideas for holiday gifts, including fun household gadgets and interesting knick-knacks. Mariahilferstrasse 17.

Books & Maps ★ British Bookshop CITY CEN-

y 01 585 7108. www.butlers.at. MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84.

TER There’s an excellent choice of English-language volumes here, from the latest blockbuster novels and kids’ books to coffee-table books about Vienna. Weihburggasse

★★ das möbel > das geschäft MQ This spacious store, laid out like an exclusive apartment, is the place for seriously cool furniture

Vienna Shopping A to Z

Vienna Shopping A to Z

The Best Shopping

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and innovative accessories by young up-and-coming Austrian designers. Gumpendorfer Straße 11.

y 01 924 3834. www.dasmoebel.at. MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84. ★ Grüne Erde MQ A modish lifestyle department store, containing stylish, eco-friendly household items, kitchen utensils, ceramics, candles, and other home comforts. Mariahilferstrasse 9. y 07615 203 410. www.grueneerde.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84. ★★ Lichterloh MQ This ultra-hip shop is filled with iconic designer furniture, objets d’art ,and lighting from Art Deco through pop art to classic modernism. Gumpendorferstrasse 15-17. y 01 586 0520. www. lichterloh.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84. ★★ J & L Lobmeyr CITY CENTER The former imperial glass-makers specialize in fine crystal glassware— rejuvenating designs from the Wiener Werkstätte in their glamorous chandelier-lit showroom. Kärtnerstrasse 26. y 01 512 0508. www. lobmeyr.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81. Phil’s—Not just a shop, but a café too.

★★★ phil MQ No two chairs or tables are alike in this unusual café/shop, where guests come not just to eat and drink but also to buy the constantly changing retro furniture. Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12. y 01 581 0489. www.phil.info. MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84. ★ Thonet CITY CENTER This flagship store is famous for inventing bentwood chairs in the early 19th century. They are still sold today alongside other fashionable items of furniture. Hegelgasse 11. y 01 310 2002-0. www.thonet-vienna.com. MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Schwarzenbergplatz). Map p 81. ★ Woka Lamps Vienna CITY CENTER Specialists in early 20thcentury light designs, with authentic handmade replicas of Bauhaus, Jugendstil, and Secessionist lamps (plus some originals too). Singerstrasse 16. y 01 513 2912. www. woka.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★ Zur Schwäbischen Jungfrau CITY CENTER Buy upmarket, luxurious table- and bed-linen, eiderdown quilts, and swimwear in this grand, old-fashioned shop with

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house. It sells ladies’ footwear too.

Graben 26. y 01 535 5356. www. schwaebischen-jungfrau.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

Mölkersteig 1. y 01 533 420 422. www.ludwig-reiter.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor). Map p 82.

Fashion & Accessories ★★ 2006Feb01 CITY CENTER Top designer fashions for men and women, in an architecturally striking, very fashionable shop near Stephansdom, offering exemplary service. Plankengasse 3. y 01 513 4222. www.2006feb01.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★★★ artup CITY CENTER My favorite shop for Austrian style— with bright, stylish, often unusual, and at times eccentric fashion, jewelry, ceramics, and accessories by new designers. Bauernmarkt 8.

y 01 535 5097. www.artup.at. DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82. ★★ Fürnkranz Couture CITY CENTER Get your ball gowns at one of Vienna’s most exclusive fashion boutiques. The top address for evening wear, including luxurious creations by couturiers such as Armani, Lacroix, and Valentino. Kärntner strasse 39. y 01 488 4426. www.fuernkranz.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81. ★★ Knize CITY CENTER This oldfashioned, wood-paneled shop, created by interior-design genius Adolf Loos, offers classy, tailor-made and prêt-â-porter menswear, with traditional service at its finest. Graben 13. y 01 512 2119. www.knize.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82. ★★★ Ludwig Reiter SCHOTTENRING Arnold Schwarzenegger buys his shoes at this elegant family establishment in a beautiful Biedermeier

★★★ Michel Mayer CITY CENTER Mix and match daytime separates and rub shoulders with floaty feminine designs in extravagant fabrics at this bijou designer boutique. Singerstrasse 7. y 01 967 4055. www. michelmayer.at. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81. ★★ Mühlbauer CITY CENTER Eye-catching modern millinery and accessories add the finishing touches to any outfit at this spacious, sophisticated shop. Seilergasse 10. y 01 512 2241. www. muehlbauer.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★★ Mühlbauer Mode CITY CENTER The labels at this shop should set any keen fashionista’s pulse racing. In a modern setting of blackand-white minimalism, it stocks state-of-the-art creations by local and international designers. Seilergasse 5. y 01 513 7070. AE, DC,MC, V. www.muehlbauer.at. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★★★ R Horns Wien CITY CENTER Visit this internationally celebrated designer to buy stylish but functional leatherware: purses, bags, briefcases—perhaps some extra luggage to carry all your souvenirs home. Bräunerstrasse 7.

y 01 513 8294. www.rhorns.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 81. ★★★ Steffl CITY CENTER Vienna’s top department store sells high-end fashions, trendy mainstream collections, and chic lifestyle artifacts to brand-conscious customers. Kärtnerstrasse 19. y 01 514 31-0. www.kaufhaus-steffl.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

Vienna Shopping A to Z

stucco ceilings and chandeliers.

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88 ★★★ Tostmann Trachten SCHOTTENRING For traditional Austrian fashions and hand-embroidered dirndls, lederhosen, felt slippers, and beautiful patchwork in a genial rustic setting. Schottengasse 3a. y 01 533 5331. www.tostmann. at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor). Map p 82. ★★ Vienna Bag CITY CENTER A tiny shop displaying feather-light, ultra-chic handbags of deceptive simplicity made of fibreglass. They come in a dazzling range of colors, including my favorites—apple green and fuchsia, and are currently all the rage. Bäckerstrasse 7. y 01 513 1184. www.vienna-bag.at. DC, MC, V. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82. ★★ Wolford CITY CENTER Austria’s best-known fashion brand is famed for its high-quality hosiery, but Wolford has now diversified into slinky lingerie and flattering swimwear. Graben 16. y 01 535 1576. www.wolford.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

Food & Wines ★★ Altmann & Kühne CITY CENTER The trademark mini-chocolates sold by this old-fashioned confectioner make perfect gifts, beautifully packaged in tiny handmade boxes decorated with traditional Viennese scenes. Graben 30.

y 01 533 0927. www.altmannkuehne.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82. ★★★ Böhle CITY CENTER This miniscule deli-bistro is gourmand heaven, crammed with delectable treats: fine cheeses, charcuterie, preserves and pickles, cakes, superior wines, and seasonal fruit and vegetables. Wollzeile 30. y 01 512 3155. www.boehle.at. DC, MC, V. UBahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 82.

There’s always a mouth-watering display at the former Imperial confectionery, Demel.

★★★ Demel CITY CENTER The imperial confectioners have baked cakes and sweets for the rich and famous for several centuries, and the proof is in the eating. These traditional tearooms are pricey but popular. Kohlmarkt 14. y 01 535 1717-0. www.demel.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.

★★★ Meinl am Graben CITY CENTER Vienna’s top delicatessen is known for its superb coffee, tea, chocolates, wines, and its impressive array of top-notch produce from Austria and around the world. Graben 19. y 01 532 3334. www. meinlamgraben.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82. ★★★ Lipizzaner CITY CENTER Delicious Lipizzaner chocolates (a white-chocolate version of the ubiquitous Mozartkugel (Mozart chocolates), Lipizzanertorten, and other horse-themed treats are the specialties here. Stephansplatz 6. y 01 512 5455. www.lipizzaner-austria. com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

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★★★ Naschmarkt NASCHMARKT Vienna’s best and liveliest produce market is the perfect place to shop for a picnic, but with such a bewildering choice of food-stalls it’s difficult to know where to start. Appealing stands to look out for include Strmiska (248) for superb sauerkraut and pickled gherkins; Käseland (172) or Der Urbanek (46) for cheese and cold cuts; Poehl (158) for breads and olive oil; Gegenbauer (111–114) for unusual, flavored vinegars; and Oberlaa (175) for cakes and confectionery. Naschmarkt. Stalls: Mon–Fri 8am– 6pm, Sat 6am–1pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 Karlsplatz, U4 Kettenbrückengasse. Meinl - the best coffee in town.

Vienna Shopping A to Z

★★ Manner CITY CENTER Vienna’s favorite biscuit—a delicious blend of wafer and hazelnut cream— makes an ideal snack to keep you going between museums and galleries. Stephansplatz 7. y 01 513 7018. www.manner.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephans-platz). Map p 82.

Käseland—a paradise for cheese lovers at the Naschmarkt.

★★ Piccini NASCHMARKT Not only does this Italian delicatessen sell sensational antipasti, cold cuts, cheese, olives, oils, biscotti, nougat, and wine, but it also has an adjoining gourmet restaurant. Linke Wienzeile 4. y 01 587 5254. MC, V. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 84. ★★★ Sacher Confiserie CITY CENTER Indulge yourself with Vienna’s most celebrated cake—the rich, chocolate Sachertorte. You can even ship them home beautifully packaged in wooden boxes of varying sizes. Philharmonikerstrasse 4. y 01 514 56–0. www.sacher.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram D/J/1/2 (Oper). Map p 81. ★★ Schönbichler CITY CENTER A fragrant, wood-paneled shop, selling over 150 varieties of teas, teapots, storage jars, and other tea accessories. Seasonal blends include ‘snowflake tea’ and ‘Christmas tea’. Wollzeile 4. www.schoenbichler.at.

y 01 512 1816. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

★ Trze1niewski CITY CENTER This tiny, old-fashioned bar/shop sells the most delicious, bite-sized

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Vienna’s traditional wooden toys always make special presents.

open sandwiches, just right for preventing hunger pangs during shopping or sightseeing. Dorotheergasse 1. y 01 512 3291. www.speckmitei. at. No credit cards. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 81.

★★ Vom Fass CITY CENTER Choose your container from an attractive display, then decide what to put in it from an enormous selection of oils, vinegars, schnapps, liqueurs, and whiskies. Brandstätte 5. y 01 532 2525. www.vomfasswiencity.at. MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

flavored cocoa powders, sauces, and fondue mixtures. Freyung 2 (Im Passage). y 01 535 4363. www.xocolat. at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.

For Kids ★★★ Herzilein Wien CITY CENTER A pretty pastel-colored shop containing adorable clothing for boys and girls (under nine), shoes, tasteful toys and teddies, and gorgeous appliquéd bed-linen. Wollzeile 17. y 0699 1092 9654. www. herzilein-wien.at. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 82.

★★ Wein & Co NASCHMARKT This specialist wine supermarket offers a comprehensive selection of wines from around the globe, including some excellent Austrian wines at affordable prices. Try before you buy in the adjoining winebar! Getreidemarkt 1. y 01 585 7257. www.weinco.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 84.

★★★ Mädchen und Buben SCHOTTENRING This small, neighborhood toyshop is great for gifthunting, brimful of appealing dolls, puppets, educational games, and old-fashioned wooden toys. Servitengasse 4A. y 01 968 6233. www.handpuppen.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände). Map p 82.

★★★ Xocolat SCHOTTENRING Essential viewing for chocoholics, this little shop displays an eyepopping selection of bar chocolate,

★★ Zauber Klingl CITY CENTER An enchanting choice of fancydress costumes, party decorations, magicians’ tricks, accessories, and

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Jewelry ★ Elisabeth Krainer CITY CEN-

strasse 6. y 01 512 6868. MC, V. Tram D/J/1/2 (Oper). Map p 81.

TER Tucked away in a small courtyard, this workshop welcomes visitors to watch the production of elegant, vivid jewelry using a wide variety of precious stones. Tuch-

Gifts & Viennese Souvenirs ★★★ Duft und Kultur CITY CENTER A fragrant treasure trove with an unusual combination of witty gift ideas, luxury toiletries, costume jewelry, scented candles, vases, and exotic oriental artifacts. Tuchlauben 17. y 01 532 3960. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

★ Petit Point CITY CENTER Fine petit point inspired by the embroidery of Viennese court ladies during the rococo era. Delicate evening bags and brooches make classic souvenirs. Hofburgpassage 2. y 01 533 6098. AE, DC, MC, V. www. maria-stransky.at. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 81. ★★ Swarovski CITY CENTER The glittering crystal vases, jewelry, and accessories produced by this celebrated Tyrolean glass-maker enjoy an international reputation. Kids especially love the distinctive miniature animals. Kärtnerstrasse 8. y 01 903 3233. www.swarovski. com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

lauben 17 (Innenhof). y 01 522 0633. www.krainerschmuck.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 82.

★★★ Frey Wille CITY CENTER Distinctive gold jewelry, scarves, ties, and cufflinks with striking designs in luminous enamel colors, inspired by artists such as Monet, Klimt, and Hundertwasser. Lobkowitzplatz 1. y 01 513 8009–14. www. frey-wille.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram D/J/1/2 (Oper). Map p 81.

★★ Schullin CITY CENTER The unusual modern wood-and-marble façade of this family-run jeweler reflects the contemporary design and quality craftsmanship on display inside. Kohlmarkt 7. y 01 533 9007. www.schullin.com. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 82.

Museum Shops ★★★ Albertina CITY CENTER This expansive museum shop stocks an artistic A–Z of quality Viennese souvenirs plus a superb choice of

Snow Globes Vienna is the home of the snow globe, invented by Erwin Perzy in 1890. The cheap, mass-produced imitations found elsewhere may seem no more than tourist kitsch, but those made here in Vienna’s Hernals district are lovingly crafted by hand. The original company (now run by Perzy’s grandson) makes over 200,000 snow globes a year. A small museum at the factory displays some of the myriad designs. Schumanngasse 87. y 01 486 4341. www.viennasnowglobe.at. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs 9am–3pm. Tram 42 (Antonigasse).

Vienna Shopping A to Z

gimmicks is on display at this longestablished emporium. Fuhrich-

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family—such as paper vases, mobiles, puzzles, and doodle books—as befits a trendy, modern art gallery. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 52500. www.mumok.at. AE,DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 84.

★★★ MAK Design Shop CITY CENTER Even if you don’t visit the museum, it’s worth coming here for the latest Austrian lifestyle trends, and to pick up some special-edition pieces by local designers. Stubenring 5. y 01 711 36228. www.mak designshop.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 82. Schulin’s unusual façade was designed by Hans Hollein.

art history and coffee-table books. Albertinaplatz 1. y 01 534 83–552. www.albertina.at. AE, MC, V. Tram D/J/1/2 (Oper). Map p 81.

★★★ Belvedere Museum BELVEDERE Presents inspired by Klimt and his peers dominate this gift shop. It’s also great for kids’ gifts, as well as posters, scarves, calendars, and ties. Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27. y 01 795 57–0. www.belvedere. at. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram D (Schloss Belvedere). Map p 84. ★★ MUMOK MQ This shop is crammed with eccentric goodies and amusing presents for all the

Music ★★ Arcadia RINGSTRASSE Under the arcades of the State Opera House, this music store contains a wide assortment of quality opera, ballet and classical recordings, books, and musical memorabilia. Kärtnerstrasse 40. y 01 513 9568. www. arcadia.at. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

★★ Musikhaus Doblinger CITY CENTER One of Europe’s largest specialist shops for sheet music, specialist books, and magazines covering all musical genres from classical to rock and pop. Dorotheergasse 10. y 515 03–0. www. doblinger.at. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

You’ll come across plenty of music themed souvenirs.

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ust outside the Ringstrasse, the ‘City Park’ was once open ground outside the city walls. Flanking the River Wien, it was laid out in English landscape style in 1862. With its expansive lawns, shaded areas, playground, and duck pond, it is a popular and tranquil destination for tourists and locals alike just on the fringe of the inner city (although it is best avoided after dark). START: U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark).

3 ★ Statuary. Scattered around

The Kursalon—the place to hear Strauss waltzes.

1 ★★★ = Stadtpark entrance. The main entrance (off Johannesgasse) is flanked by magnificent Jugendstil portals of carved stone. The chase scene through the sewers at the end of The Third Man movie—one of the most famous in the history of cinema— was produced under the bridge here. See p 51.

2 ★ Kursalon Wien. See p 137.

the park you’ll find busts commemorating some of the many musicians and artists associated with Vienna— Schubert, Bruckner, and Lehár are here, together with landscape painter, Emil Schindler (1842–92) and the hugely influential artist, designer, and ‘magician of colors’, Hans Makart (1840–84). The park’s most famous tenant, however, is Johann Strauss II. The rather tacky, gilded statue of the ‘King of the Waltz’ playing his violin near the Kursalon is without doubt Vienna’s most famous (and much photographed) statue.

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★★ Meirerei. This riverside ‘milkbar’ café, with trendy whiteon-white décor (adjoining the celebrated gourmet restaurant Steirereck), serves superb breakfasts, light snacks, 120 different cheeses, and traditional Austrian desserts. Am Heumarkt 2. y 01

713 3168. $$.

Kids’ Playgrounds Viennese playgrounds are generally excellent, featuring plenty of sturdy swings, slides, sandpits, and tree-houses. The Stadtpark has one of the best. Others can be found beside Karlskirche, in the Rathauspark, at Börseplatz and, further afield, at Schlichplatz (in Alsergrund) and Schönborn Park (in Josefstadt). The Prater has several wonderful playgrounds too (see p 97). The Schönbrunn Park’s Irrgarten (‘Crazy Garden’, see p 108, bullet 5) is the most eccentric, but most parents like the one at the University campus best, as it’s right next to a beer-garden.

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n sunny days, all year round, there’s nothing I enjoy more than strolling in this vast and famous park alongside the Danube. Here you can wander at will past the Wiener Prater amusement park with its famous giant ferris wheel, through woodland and vast sunbathing meadows to one of its fine beer-gardens. This is undoubtedly one of the best places in the city to watch the Viennese at play.

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1 ★★★ Prater. In 1766, Josef II opened the old imperial hunting grounds to the public, creating a huge tract of recreational parkland. The Prater is now Vienna’s most popular park and one of its main ‘green lungs’, criss-crossed by a maze of quiet paths and streams which meander through open fields and mixed woodland. The less-lit parts of the park are best avoided after dark, however, as the Prater is a well-known hotspot for petty crime. It is a major sporting venue, containing the Ernst Happel football stadium (venue of the Euro2008 football tournament) and a trotting stadium, which stages international trotting races from September The Lusthaus restaurant was once an imperial hunting lodge.

through June. Its golf course, tennis courts, and swimming pool appeal to sports enthusiasts, while kids love the vast open spaces for picnics, games, and tree-climbing. It has well-equipped playgrounds, skateboard and BMX courses for older children, pony-riding (on the fringes of the Wurstelprater), and even a mini-train (the Liliput-Bahn) which tours the park every 30 minutes from 10am–7pm (from the Riesenrad). You can hire a bike or some rollerblades (see Bike Rentals, p 162) or take a small boat on the Heustadlwasser. A broad avenue (known as the Hauptallee), planted with ancient chestnut trees, represents the park’s backbone, stretching 5km (3 miles) from the idyllic Green Prater to the Wurstelprater funfair zone. U-Bahn 3 (Erdberg)/U-Bahn 2 (Ernst Happel Stadion). www.prater.at.

2 ★★ Lusthaus. This unusual 18th-century octagonal pavilion at the heart of the Prater woods was originally built as a hunting lodge. Now converted to a restaurant, it retains its imperial dignity and is a popular choice with locals for special occasions. Try the game dishes in season—the version with fresh herbs and cranberries is especially tasty. Freudenau 254. y 01 728 9565. $$–$$$.

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3★ Wiener Prater. At the western end of the Prater, you can travel on a ghost train, ride an oldfashioned merry-go-round or drive a

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100-year-old structure was built by an Englishman named Walter Basset, and is one of the city’s great landmarks, immortalized in the movie The Third Man. It takes 20 minutes to complete one circuit and is especially magical (and therefore often busier) at night. As well as the ride there’s also a charming small museum in the entrance area, which illustrates the history of the wheel and the city in miniature—all contained within some of the Riesenrad’s old red cabins. For a really special occasion, you can hire out a cabin for a romantic dinner or drinks. Wurstelprater. y 01 729

High-adrenalin action at the Wiener Prater.

dodgem car at the Wurstelprater— the world’s oldest amusement park. In the 19th century, it consisted of a few inns, coffee houses, badminton courts, a bowling alley, and a ferris wheel, built to amuse the Viennese working classes. Now, with over 250 hi-tech rides, sideshows, and fastfood stands, it’s one of Vienna’s top leisure attractions—a colorful, noisy spectacle for all the family. Don’t miss the watery Donau-Jump; the revolting Dizzy Mouse; or the highoctane Volare roller-coaster for the ultimate adrenalin rush. y 01 728 0516. www.prater.at. Free admission; rides cost between
1–
10. Mar 15–Oct 10am–midnight. U-Bahn 1 (Praterstern).

4 ★★★ = Riesenrad. My favorite ride at the Wurstelprater funfair is undoubtedly atop the worldfamous Riesenrad, or ferris wheel. Gliding slowly to a height of 67m above the rooftops, you catch awesome views of Vienna, UNO City (see p 101, bullet 6), and the Wienerwald beyond. This giant

5430. www.wienerriesenrad.com.
8 adults,
3.20 kids,
20 family card. Jan–Feb 10am–7pm, Mar–Apr 24, Oct 10am–9.45pm, Apr 25–Sept 9am– 11.45pm, Nov–Dec 10am–7.45pm. U-Bahn 1 (Praterstern). There’s plenty to amuse the kids at the Prater.

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A Danube tourist boat passes the Franz-von-Assisi-Kirche.

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5★ Zeiss Planetarium. The state-of-the-art Zeiss projector enables budding astronomers to star-gaze into the skies above the Prater—over 9,000 stars are visible on a clear night—or to enjoy one of the exciting film shows, which are geared towards a young audience.

6

Oswald Thomas-Platz 1. y 01 729 5494. www.planetarium-wien.at.
8 adults,
6 kids. Phone for show times. U-Bahn 1 (Praterstern).

Strasse des ersten Mai 116. y 01 728 0152. $$. Mid-Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–11.30pm).

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★★★ Schweizerhaus. There’s always a lively crowd in this enormous beer-garden, which seats 1,300 people. Try the specialty crispy Stelzen (pigs’ trotters), or one of several other authentic Bohemian specialities, all washed down by the best Czech Budvar beer in town.

Danube Boat Trips The longer Danube cruises offered by the Blue Danube Shipping riverboats pass some of the finest river scenery in Europe. A summer day tour into the wine country of Austria’s Wachau region (with time to visit Melk’s impressive baroque abbey) is especially scenic. Visit the Slovakian capital, Bratislava, just 11/4 hours away by highspeed catamaran (five sailings daily, Apr–Sept). Or take a half-day trip (daily departures 9am from Salztorbrücke, May–Sept) to explore the Lobau National Park—a beautiful, unspoilt wetland area with exceptional flora and fauna just outside the city, and a must for nature lovers (y 01 4000 49 480 for details).

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love the majestic River Danube (known as the Donau in Vienna), even if it isn’t strictly blue, as Strauss’s celebrated waltz insists. Its status as a major European waterway is indisputable, flowing 2,860km from Germany’s Black Forest through Austria to the Black Sea. Yet in Vienna it simply offers a huge recreational area in which to relax, sunbathe, sail, and swim—all just a stone’s throw from the city center.

1 ★★★ = Danube Canal cruise. See p 22, bullet 2.

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2 ★★★ Alte Donau. The ‘Old Danube’ carried the main flow of the river until 1875 when its course was changed to prevent flooding, turning it into a vast, landlocked expanse of water. Ever since, it has been a favorite destination for Viennese bathers and boating enthusiasts. The largest and most popular of several beach complexes here is Gänsehäufel (Goose Island),

which has kids’ pools, water slides, beach volleyball, cafés, playgrounds, and mini-golf. Alte Donau: @ 2hr.

U-Bahn 1 (Alte Donau). Gänsehäufel: Moissigasse 21. y 01 269 9016. www.gaensehaeufel.at. Daily (May–Sept only): Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat–Sun 8am–8pm.
4.50 adults (
3.50 for half-day),
1.50 kids (
1.50 half-day). U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen), then free Bäderbus (baths bus) every 15 minutes from the UBahn to the beach (late May–Aug).

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Donau 47. y 01 271 53 36. $$.

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4 ★★ Donauinsel. The Danube Island was created in the 1980s when the Neue Donau (New Danube) was constructed parallel to the main river to prevent flooding. Criss-crossed by paths and with over 40km of Schotterstrände (gravel beaches), this tiny sliver of land is a paradise for cyclists, walkers and sunbathers, with bikes, inline skates and boats to hire. The tips of the island are designated nudist zones. In late June the island hosts the hugely popular Donauinselfest—a three-day festival of rock, pop, and folk music which draws up to 3 million fans annually. @ 1hr.

www.donauinsel.at, www.donauinsel fest.at. U-Bahn 1 (Donauinsel).

5 ★★ = Danube Park. Vienna’s second-largest park was laid out in 1964 for the first Vienna International Garden Show. Located on The Donauinsel is popular with cyclists.

y 01 263 3572. www.donauturm.at. Daily 10am–midnight.
5.50 adults,
4.10 kids. U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen).

6 ★ Vienna International Center (VIC). This ultra-modern cluster of Y-shaped skyscrapers is home to numerous international organizations. It serves as one of the United Nations’ four headquarters (along with New York, Geneva, and Nairobi), hence its local nickname ‘UNO City’. Take a guided tour for a rare insight into the varied work of the UN. Boats can be hired at Eppel Boote (Wagramer Strasse 48a) or Kukis Kombüse (Wagramerstrasse 48d). @ tours last one hour; you

need a passport to get in. Wagramerstrasse 5. y 01 260 60-3328. www. unvienna.org.
5 adults,
3 concessions,
2 kids. Mon–Fri 11am and 2pm (also 12.30pm from June–Aug). U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen/Vienna International Center).

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★ Copa Cagrana. It’s party time all summer long at the exotic cafés, bars, and clubs of UNO City’s Copa Cagrana complex (this strip was once known as Kagran and is now amusingly named after Rio’s Copacabana Beach). Although some of the eateries here are a little tacky, it’s worth checking out the Greekstyle Taverne Sokrates (y 0650 587 4111, $) or romantic Fisch + Mehr (y 0650 535 9224, $$).

The Danube

3

★★★ Strandgasthaus Birner. Little has changed since this oldfashioned beach restaurant on the Alte Donau opened in the 1930s. It has a sunny riverside terrace, superb fish specialties, and traditional Viennese cuisine. Obere Alte

the site of a former military parade ground called Kagran, it is much loved by locals for its maze of cycle lanes and footpaths, rose-garden, playgrounds, giant chess, mini-train, open-air theater, beaches, and petting zoo. Vienna’s tallest structure, the Donauturm (Danube Tower) rises 252m above the park. Whizz up the lift on a clear day to admire the sweeping vistas extending as far as Hungary and the Alps. There’s a revolving café and restaurant at the top. @ 2hr. Donauturmstrasse 4.

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n the northwestern outskirts of Vienna lies a region of picturesque old wine villages and vineyard-striped hills. This is where the prestigious Grüner Veltliner white wines are produced. Grinzing is one of the best-known and popular wine villages, noted for its quaint old houses and gemütlich (cosy) wine taverns, or Heurigen, usually marked by a bunch or wreath of pine sprigs. START: Cobenzl

Parkplatz (U-Bahn 4 (Heiligenstadt) then bus 38a (Cobenzl Parkplatz)).

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1 ★★★ Reisenbergweg. character, despite the large number On arrival at Cobenzl (450m), pause of tourists who frequent its numerawhile to admire the breathtaking ous Heurigen. Most of the romantic views over Vienna (there’s a old vintners’ houses date from the coffee house and petting 16th and 17th centuries. farm here too). Cross the Grinzing has many associroad and descend a narations with historical row country lane (Oberer celebrities: Schubert Reisenbergweg) through wrote some of his songs the vineyards to the vilon local outings, and lage of Grinzing, stopping Strauss composed for your first tipple of local his Tales from the Vienna wine at Weingut am ReisenWoods nearby. The secret berg (Thurs–Sat 5pm–11pm, of dreams was revealed to Sun 1pm–11pm (9pm in winFreud here, and Mahler is Each Heurige has ter)) halfway down. Mozart buried in the village cemeits own crest. wrote to his father in 1781 tery. Bus 38a (Grinzing). ‘I live just one hour away from Vienna. It’s called Reisenberg and ★★★ Two of my favorite Heuriit’s very pleasant here’! Bus 38a gen lie close together. Zum Martin (Cobenzl Parkplatz). Sepp (Cobenzlgasse 34, y 01 320 2 ★★★ Grinzing. Grinzing has 3233, $$) has a jolly courtyard garpreserved its charming village den and serves nourishing bar meals. Hans Maly (Sandgasse 8, The view from the Reisenbergweg. y 01 320 1384, $) also has a picturesque garden, but serves simpler fare. Like many Heurigen, both often offer live music. They are less touristy out of season.

3

4 ★★ Heiligenstadt. Beethoven spent a number of summers in Heiligenstadt, hoping that the country air would alleviate his deafness. You can visit one of his apartments (Probusgasse 6, y 01 370 5408, Tues–Sun 10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm). Nearby, rustic Mayer am Pfarrplatz is one of Vienna’s top Heurigen (Pfarrplatz 2, y 01 370 1287, $$). Bus 38A (Fernsprechamt).

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hat Versailles is to France, Schönbrunn is to Austria. This grandiose baroque palace was once the summer residence of the imperial family. It is hard to believe that it began life as a simple hunting lodge, built by Maximilian II in 1569, taking its name from the ‘beautiful spring’ found here. Now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is Vienna’s most-visited historic building.

1 ★★★ = Schönbrunn Palace. Leopold I commissioned the great architect Fischer von Erlach to build a monumental palace here for his son in the 17th century. It remained incomplete until Empress Maria Theresa added another floor to accommodate her 16 children, supervised the interior design and the layout of the grounds, and painted it her favorite color—Schönbrunnergelb (Schönbrunn yellow). See bullet 2.

2 ★★★ Imperial Apartments. Maria Theresa is the monarch most closely associated with the palace. She lived here with her entourage of 1,500 staff and courtiers. The state rooms with their extravagant rococo décor give an evocative insight into her lifestyle. Of the two guided tours on offer, choose the ‘Grand Tour’ which visits 40 rooms (out of nearly 2,000 in total)—the Imperial Tour

covers only 22 rooms, not including the impressive west wing.

3 ★ Wagenburg. It is fun to wind the clocks back to olden times at the Imperial Carriage Collection, with its magnificent horse-drawn carriages, sedan chairs, and fairytale sleighs housed in the Winter Riding School. @ 30min. Schönbrun-

ner Schlossstrasse. y 01 525 24–0. www.khm.at.
4.50 adults,
3/
3.60 concessions,
2.50 kids,
9 family. Daily Apr–Oct 9am–6pm, Nov–Mar Tues–Sun 10am–4pm. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).

4 ★ Orangerie im Schloss Schönbrunn. This grand 18thcentury edifice is the world’s second-largest baroque orangery after Versailles. Part of it is still used to over-winter citrus trees. The other section hosts nightly Mozart and Strauss concerts, performed by the Schönbrunn Palace Orchestra. In

Schoenbrunn Palace—Vienna’s most visited attraction.

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The tour starts in the private rooms of Elisabeth (Sisi) and Franz Josef. A highlight of the state apartments is the j ★★ Hall of Mirrors, where the six-year-old Mozart first played the clavichord to Maria Theresa in 1762. His virtuoso performance was soon the talk of the town, laying the foundations for his meteoric rise to fame. The k ★★ Great Gallery is dominated by three enormous ceiling frescoes celebrating the glory of the Habsburgs, and illuminated by magnificent chandeliers. In the painting of Isabella’s wedding procession in l ★ Hall of Ceremonies, each of the 98 coaches belonging to the aristocracy of Europe is identifiable by its family insignia. Maria Theresa

this setting in 1785, Mozart and his lifelong adversary Antonio Salieri vied for supremacy in a composers’ competition (one of the most memorable scenes in the movie Amadeus).

clearly had expensive tastes; she spent a million silver florins on the rosewood paneling and priceless miniatures in the m ★★★ Million Room. Finally, don’t miss the n ★★ Blue Chinese Room where Karl I abdicated in 1918, ending a remarkable six centuries of Habsburg rule. @ 2hr. Early morning

is very busy; lunchtime is the quietest time to visit. Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse. y 01 811 13–239. www.schoenbrunn.at. Grand Tour (40 rooms)/Imperial Tour (22 rooms):
12.90/
9.50 adults,
11.40/
8.50 concessions,
7.90/
5.90 kids (6–18). Apr–Oct 8.30am–5pm (6pm July–Aug), Nov–Mar 8.30am–4.30pm. U-Bahn 4 (Schloss Schönbrunn).

In case you’re wondering . . . Salieri won. Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse.

y 01 812 5004–0. www.image vienna.com. Tickets (
39–
75) available online. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn).

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5 ★★★ Schlosspark. It’s hard not to feel rather superior as you stroll among the statues, fountains, immaculately clipped hedging, and bright flower-filled beds of the vast and beautiful Palace Park. Laid out by Maria Theresa’s son, Joseph II (a keen gardener), in the strict symmetry of French-style gardens of the era, it’s a wonderful place to watch the Viennese at leisure. The grandest follies in the park include the Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain) after which the palace is named, complete with grotto and nymph in true baroque style; the Fountain of Neptune facing the palace; and the majestic Gloriette—a neoclassical arcade. The magnificent iron-and-glass Palm House (a replica of the one in London’s Kew Gardens), is full of exotic plants collected over centuries. A Desert House contains plants from arid regions. Kids large and small will love the Maze and the adjoining Irrgarten (Crazy Garden)—an eccentric kids’ playground full of unusual wooden toys, crazy mirrors, sandpits, and wacky climbing frames.

@ 2hr. Schlosspark. y No phone. www.schoenbrunn.at. Free admission. Apr–Oct 6am–dusk; Nov–Mar 6.30am–dusk (phone for exact times). Palm House:
4 adults,
2 kids. Daily 9.30am–5pm. Maze/ Irrgarten:
2.90 adults,
1.70 kids,
5.80 family ticket. Apr–June, Sept 9am–6pm; July–Aug 9am–7pm; Oct 9am–5pm. U-Bahn (Schönbrunn).

6

★★ Gloriette. This immense neoclassical arcade was built to commemorate the Austro-Hungarian victory over the Prussians in 1775. Sited high on a hill overlooking the palace and gardens, with the city as a distant backdrop, its

Children just love the Palace’s Irrgarten (‘Crazy Garden’).

upmarket café affords sensational views, especially at sunset. Schlosspark. y 01 879 1311. $$.

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7 ★★★ Schönbrunn Zoo. Take a break from all the art, music, and culture, and visit the zoo— Vienna’s most-visited attraction after Schönbrunn Palace. It’s the oldest zoo in the world, founded in 1752 by Emperor Franz I. Some of the 750-plus animals are housed in original baroque buildings. You can travel round the enclosures by minitrain. Current crowd-pullers include a set of polar bear twins and Fu Long the panda, all born in 2007.

@ 2hr. Avoid weekends and school holidays if possible. Maxingstrasse 13b. y 01 877 9294. www.zoo vienna.at.
12 adults,
5 kids & concessions (free under 5). Feb 9am–5pm, Mar 9am–5.30pm, Apr– Sept 9am–6.30pm, Oct–Jan 9am– 4.30pm. U-Bahn 4 (Hietzing).

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The Best Dining

The Best Dining

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Dining Best Bets Most Eccentric Loos

Best Fish

★★ Steirerek, Am Stadtpark (p 121)

★★ Lobsterdock, Karlsplatz 5 (p 119)

Best Noodle Bar ★★★ Ra’mien, Gumpendorferstrasse 9 (p 120)

Best for Carnivores ★ Ribs of Vienna, Weihburggasse 22 (p 120)

Best for Afternoon Tea and Cake

Best Ice-Cream ★★★ Zanoni & Zanoni, Lugeck 7 (p 121)

Best Asian Cuisine ★★ Indochine 21, Stubenring 18 (p 118)

Best Brunch

★★★ Café Sacher, Philharmonikerstrasse 4 (p 117)

★★★ Naschmarkt Deli, Naschmarkt 421-436 (p 120)

Best Wiener Schnitzel

Best Beer Cellar for a Meal

★★★ Figlmüller, Wollzeile 5 (see p 10, bullet ) (p 8)

★★★ Zwölf Apostelkeller, Sonnenfelsgasse 3 (p 122)

2

Best Neighborhood Italian

Best Museum Café

★★★ Osteria Numero Uno, Burggasse 25 (p 120)

★★★ Milo, Museumsplatz 1 (p 120)

Best Boho Café

★★★ Witwe Bolte, Gutenberggasse 13 (p 121)

★★ Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 6 (p 118)

Most Traditional Coffeehouse ★★★ Café Sperl, Gumpendorferstrasse 11 (p 117)

Best Alfresco Meal

Best Bohemian Cuisine ★★★ Zu den 3 Buchteln, Wehrgasse 9 (p 122)

Café Sperl—one of the oldest and most popular coffeehouses in town.

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Dining Best Bets

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The Best Dining

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Vienna Dining A to Z ★ Akakiko CITY CENTER ASIAN This trendy chain of Japanese fastfood cafés reflects the city’s current craze for exotic cuisine, with sushi, noodle dishes, and bento lunchbox meals to eat in or take out. Rotenturmstrasse 6. y 057 333 190. Entrees
8.70–
20.70. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★ Alte Backstube JOSEFSTADT VIENNESE Tuck into real Viennese home-cooking in this old-fashioned, country-style, candlelit tavern, housed in a former 17th-century bakery. The lunch menu is especially good. Lange Gasse 34. y 01 406 1101. Entrees
13.80–
18.90. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner Sun. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). ★★ Augustinerkeller HOFBURG VIENNESE Hearty local dishes, beer on tap, and jolly Heurige music in the evenings are the order of the day within the ancient brick vaults of this cosy former monastery cellar. Amerlingbeisl—a true locals’ wateringhole.

Augustinerstrasse 1. y 01 533 1026. Entrees
10.90–
22. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

★★ Amerlingbeisl SPITTELBERG An informal eatery serving simple but varied light bites, including a good vegetarian selection. Sit outside in the pretty, cobbled courtyard. Stiftgasse 8. y 01 526 1660. Entrees
6.20–
10.90. AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Tram 49 (Stiftgasse). ★★ Bräunerhof HOFBURG CAFÉ Join the locals in this genteel tearoom to enjoy a variety of coffees and strudels. At weekends, a quartet plays in the afternoons. Stallburggasse 2. y 01 512 3893. Entrees
6.70–10.50. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat 8am–7pm, Sun, hols 10am–7pm. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

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★★ Café Cuadro MARGARETEN CAFÉ A trendy organic café, serving bio-breakfasts (until 4pm), square ethno-burgers, salads, vegetarian strudels, and affordable cocktails (from 5pm). Margaretenstrasse 77. y 01 544 7550. Entrees
3.90–
9.20. V only. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 4 (Pilgramgasse).

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★ Café der Provinz JOSEFSTADT CAFÉ This low-key, mellow café draws students and locals to its simple menu of salads, savoury and sweet pancakes, not to mention delicious organic brunches at the weekend. Maria-Treu-Gasse 3. y 01 944 2272.
4.80–
7.80. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus).

= Café Meirerei Volksgarten HOFBURG CAFÉ Come

★★★

to this tiny garden pavilion for its

117

Vienna Dining A to Z

sensational al fresco buck’s fizz breakfasts, gooey gateaux, and icecream sundaes. Volksgarten. y 01 533 2105. Entrees
3.80–
12.60. AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 4.

★★★ Café Sacher CITY CENTER CAFÉ The place to try Vienna’s famous chocolate cake, Sachertorte, made to a secret recipe and served with whipped cream in a posh, traditional tea-room. Philharmonikerstrasse 4. y 01 51 456-0. Entrees
15.60–
19.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). ★★★ Café Sperl MQ CAFÉ One of Vienna’s best-loved cafés, serving local dishes in a plush, fin-de-siècle setting. Newspapers and billiardtables add to the relaxed ambience. Gumpendorferstrasse 11. y 01 586 4158. Entrees
7.10–
9.80. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 11am–8pm (closed Sun in summer). U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★★ Cantinetta Antinori CITY CENTER ITALIAN Enjoy sophisticated Italian cuisine and top-notch wines al fresco or in a spacious, chandelier-lit dining-room. Popular for business lunches. Jasmirogottstrasse 3/5. y 01 533 7722. Entrees
20.50–
34. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★ Café Leopold MQ CAFÉ Hip, arty types frequent the Leopold Museum’s cool café-bar for tasty brunches, bagels, and wraps during the day, followed by cocktails and funky DJ sounds at night. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 523 6732. Entrees
3.90–
10.50. MC, V. Daily 10am– 2am (4am Thurs–Sat). U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). ★ Fabios FREYUNG MEDITERRANEAN See and be seen in this sophisticated, minimalist retaurant

Café Sperl—the archetypal Viennese coffee house.

where the décor is sleek, the waiters suave, and the modern-Mediterranean cuisine impeccable. Save room for dessert. Tuchlauben 6.

y 01 532 2222. Entrees
24–
33.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

★★ Fratelli CITY CENTER ITALIAN Hugely popular Italian restaurant serving home-made pastas and pizzas. Ask for a table on the lovely shaded terrace or in the wittily frescoed, brick-vaulted basement. Rotenturmstrasse 24 (entrance on Ertlplatz).

y 01 533 8745.
7.90–
24.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

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★ Fresh Soup & Salad CITY CENTER The simple but tasty homemade soups, curries, and salads at this modern, unfussy café make an ideal lunch-break for shoppers and sightseers. Wipplingerstrasse 1. y 0664 857 5871. Entrees
3.90–
5.70. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 11am–7.30pm. Sat 11am–5.30pm. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

= Kunsthistorisches Museum MQ CAFÉ Grab a

★★

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118

coffee or a light snack between galleries in the KHM’s grand cupola hall. Book in advance for the special Sunday Art and Buffet brunch and art tour. KHM, Maria-TheresienPlatz. y 01 526 1361. Entrees
6.90–
9.90. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Tram 1/2 (Burgring).

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★★ Gösser Bierklinik FREYUNG BEER CELLAR One of the top drinking haunts in Vienna, this jolly beer cellar—with a level of noise to delight parents of toddlers serves superb ales and hearty Viennese Schmankerln (delicacies), including beer soup. Steindlgasse 4.

y 01 535 6897. Entrees
7–
18. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

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★ Gulaschmuseum CITY CENTER AUSTO-HUNGARIAN Fifteen different types of gulasch (a meaty casserole seasoned with paprika) are served here, including even a chocolate gulasch for dessert. Schulerstrasse 20. y 01 512 1017. Entrees
8–
14. MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★ Hawelka CITY CENTER CAFÉ This scruffy, bohemian café has long attracted artists and local literati.

Join them here at 10pm when hot Buchteln (jam doughnuts) are served. Scrumptious with coffee. Dorotheergasse 6. y 01 512 8230. Snacks
3.50–
4.30. No credit cards. Mon, Wed–Sat 8am–2am, Sun 10am–2am. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★★ Hollmann Salon CITY CENTER AUSTRIAN This stylish restaurant serves high-quality three- and four-course menus of organic, regional cuisine, and beautifully crafted desserts. Grashofgasse 3 (entrance in Heiligenkreuzerhof). y 01 96 11 960–40. Menus
13–
49. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 4 (Schwedenplatz). ★★★ Indian Pavilion NASCHMARKT INDIAN Try the specialty thali (mixed curry platter) on the pavement terrace of this tiny market café, washed down by Cobra beer, a mango lassi (yogurt drink), or Darjeeling tea with cardamom. Naschmarkt 74-75. y 01 587 8561. Entrees
9.50–
12.50. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 11am–6.30pm, Sat 11am–5pm. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★ Indochine 21 CITY CENTER ASIAN Transport yourself to Indochina via the spicy hotpots, fish dishes, and exotic fruits of this chic restaurant, which specializes in

Indochine 21—the ultimate in French-Vietnamese cuisine.

119

y 01 513 7660. Entrees
23–
35. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram 1/2 (Stubentor).

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★ Inigo CITY CENTER AUSTRIAN This modern locals’ caférestaurant serves affordable international cuisine, including plenty of vegetarian choices. The sofas and armchairs add warmth and comfort. Bäckerstrasse 18. y 01 512 7451. AE, DC, MC, V. Entrees
5.40–
10.60. Mon–Sat 9.30–midnight, Sun 10am–4pm. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). ★★ Kaffee Alt Wien CITY CENTER CAFÉ Simple, boho and nicotine-stained, the nooks and crannies of this friendly, fun café are packed with students, actors, and journalists into the early hours. Bäckerstrasse 9. y 01 512 5222. Lunch & dinner daily. Entrees
10. No credit cards. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★★ La Pasteria SERVITEN ITALIAN Each dish is a work of art at this small, modern deli-restaurant. The antipasti and pasta dishes are especially tasty. Ask for a table on the pavement terrace. Servitengasse 10. y 01 310 2736. Entrees
10.50–
19.50. V only. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände). Kaffee Alt Wien—a cozy locals haunt.

★★ Little Buddha CITY CENTER ASIAN Beyond the imposing entrance, this dramatic black-andred restaurant serves state-of-the-art trans-Asian cuisine to Vienna’s chic set. There’s also a plush, intimate basement cocktail bar. Lugeck 1. y 01 512 1111. Entrees
17–
19. AE, DC, MC, V. Noon–3am daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansdom). ★★ Lobo y Luna NEUBAU SPANISH There’s a tiny restaurant hidden behind the sleek bar here. It serves a select choice of tasty tapas dishes including chorizo in rioja sauce and prawns in garlic. Mondscheingasse 2. y 01 944 9966. Entrees
7.50–
11.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. U3 (Neubaugasse).

★★ Lobsterdock CITY CENTER FISH The sensational clam chowder and seafood platters will appeal to fish fanatics. Right next to the Musikverein, it’s handy for pre- or post-concert dinners. Karlsplatz 5. y 01 505 3839. Entrees
19.50–
48. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner, Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★ Martinelli FREYUNG ITALIAN Enjoy fine Italian cuisine in this traditional trattoria, or served alfresco in the shady courtyard of an elegant

Vienna Dining A to Z

outstanding modern French–Vietnamese cuisine. Stubenring 18.

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The Best Dining

twist in a series of cosy, romantic dining-rooms. The Zwiebelrostbraten (steak heaped with crispy onions) is especially tasty. Kurrentgasse 8. y 01 533 8844. Entrees
13.50–
18.50. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★★ Osteria Numero Uno NEUBAU ITALIAN The owners make you feel like house guests at this tiny, quirky restaurant. There’s no menu: Silvia cooks as many courses as you can eat while Luca serves the wines. Burggasse 25. y 01 526 0357. Allow
30 for three courses. No credit cards. Dinner Tues–Sat. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Lobsterdock—the address for shellfish in town.

baroque palace. Excellent wines. Palais Harrach, Freyung 3. y 01 533 6721. Entrees
19.50–
24. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. UBahn 3 (Herrengasse).

★★★ Milo MQ CAFÉ The best bet in the MuseumsQuartier, with a mouth-watering bistro-style menu, and scrumptious home-made cakes. The geometric tiled ceiling lends the airy, modern café a Moorish feel. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 523 6566. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

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★★★ Naschmarkt Deli NASCHMARKT CAFÉ Come here for hearty all-day breakfasts, market-fresh salads, and mighty tripledecker sandwiches. It’s also a trendy bar by night. Naschmarkt 421-436. y 01 585 0823. Entrees
4.50–
5.50. No credit cards. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★ Ofenloch FREYUNG VIENNESE This traditional restaurant serves classic Viennese fare with a modern

★★ Oswald & Kalb CITY CENTER VIENNESE A hugely popular Beisl (bistro), serving upmarket variations on Viennese cuisine to the city’s beautiful people, in a modern, candlelit setting. Bäckerstrasse 14.

y 01 512 1371. Entrees
12.90–
25.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). ★★ Plachutta CITY CENTER VIENNESE One of the city’s finest restaurants, where the local specialty Tafelspitz (boiled beef) has been raised to an art form, with 10 cuts of beef to choose from. Wollzeile 38. y 01 512 1577. Entrees
15.10–
25.40. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram 1/2. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor).

=

★★★ Ra’mien MQ ASIAN This hip, Asian fast-food joint combines delicious (and often spicy) noodle dishes from China, Vietnam, and Thailand, with minimalist canteen-chic. Gumpendorferstrasse 9. y 01 585 4798. Entrees
6.50–
10. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★ Ribs of Vienna CITY CENTER This dark but lively cellar restaurant

121

Weihburggasse 22. y 01 513 8519. Entrees
11.60–
21. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, 5pm–midnight. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★ Steirerek im Stadtpark STADTPARK MODERN AUSTRIAN Viennese gossip magazines always feature celebrity diners at this upscale riverside restaurant, long ranked Austria’s top gourmet temple. The restrooms count among Europe’s quirkiest. Am Stadtpark. y 01 713 3168. Entrees
22–
45. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark).

=

★ TokoRi NASCHMARKT ASIAN There’s a friendly, studenty atmosphere at this informal sushi restaurant at the heart of the Naschmarkt. It’s ideal for a swift, cheap lunch. Naschmarkt 261-277. y 01 587 2616.
7.10–
15.90. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Enjoy the informal ambiance of this trendy noodle bar.

★★ Umarfisch NASCHMARKT FISH It’s worth squeezing round the tiny tables at this Mediterraneanstyle market-café, as it serves the freshest fish and shellfish in town. Naschmarkt 76-79. y 01 587 0456. Entrees
18.90–
24. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★★ Witwe Bolte SPITTELBERG AUSTRIAN Enjoy classic regional dishes, fish, game and steaks at this tiny, traditional locale, or on its beautiful tree-shaded terrace in a fountain-splashed, cobbled square. Gutenberggasse 13. y 01 523 1450. Entrees
15.20–
23. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

=

★★★ Zanoni & Zanoni CITY CENTER ICE-CREAM PARLOUR Over 50 different ice-cream flavors await you at this popular gelateria, including blueberry, nougat, yogurt, and biscuit. In winter the pavement terrace is heated. Lugeck 7. y 01 512 7979. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7.30am–midnight. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★ Zu Ebener Erde und Erste Stock SPITTELBERG BOHEMIAN

Expect a cozy Biedermeier atmosphere at this family-run café, as you tuck into hearty gulasch and similar Austro-Hungarian dishes. Burgstrasse 13. y 01 523 6254. Entrees
6.90–
12.90. AE, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

=

★★★ Zu den 2 Lieserl’n NEUBAU VIENNESE The pea-green façade hides a well-kept secret: This little-known rustic restaurant with a courtyard garden serves some of the finest (and largest) schnitzels in Vienna. Burggasse 63. y 01 523 3282. Entrees
7–
11.90. No credit cards. Daily 11am–11pm. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater).

Vienna Dining A to Z

is paradise for carnivores, serving sticky barbeque ribs and juicy steaks. I challenge anyone to complete the specialty ‘meter of spare-ribs’.

The Best Dining

122

Zwölf Apostelkeller—fine wines, Heurige music and a rustic beer-hall atmosphere.

★★★ Zu den 3 Buchteln MARGARETEN BOHEMIAN/RUSSIAN Come to this tiny, old-world restaurant for delicious Bohemian and Russian country-style fare, Czech beers, and tasty hot desserts, served in a homely atmosphere. Wehrgasse 9. y 01 587 8365. Entrees
8.40–
13.75. V only. Dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn 4 (Pilgramgasse).

★ Zum Basilisken CITY CENTER VIENNESE A pretty rustic inn at the heart of the old city center, serving Altwiener Küche (Old-Viennese cuisine), with specialty seasonal game dishes. Schönlaterngasse 3–5. y 01 513 3123. Entrees
10.50–
17.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). ★★ Zum Roten Elefanten MQ AUSTRIAN The ‘Red Elephant’ has become part of Vienna’s in-scene, with a daily-changing menu of straightforward seasonal dishes. The set lunch menu (
7.50 for two courses) is excellent value; dinner is

à la carte. Gumpendorferstrasse 3.

y 01 966 8008. Entrees
12.50–
17. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

★ Zur Goldenen Glocke MARGARETEN VIENNESE Entering this ancient tavern is like arriving in the countryside. Gingham-checked tablecloths and hunting scenes decorate the interior. The menu features authentic Viennese cuisine. Kettenbrückengasse 9. y 01 587 5767. Entrees
8.80–
14.80. DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2.30pm, 5.30pm–midnight, Sun 11.30–3pm. U-Bahn 4 (Kettenbrückengasse). ★★★ Zwölf Apostelkeller CITY CENTER HEURIGE There’s always a jolly atmosphere at this medieval, vaulted Heurige in the heart of the old town. It offers superb wines, a lengthy menu of Austrian dishes, and live music every night. Sonnenfelsgasse 3. y 01 512 6777. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

•

7

The Best Nightlife

The Best Nightlife

124

Nightlife Best Bets Best for Party Animals

Best Canalside Venue

★★★ Passage, Babenburgerpassage, Burgring 1 (p 130)

★★★ Summer Stage, Rossauer Lände (p 73)

Best Jazz Club

Best Dressed Crowd

★★ Jazzland, Franz-Josefs-Kai 29 (p 131)

★★★ Red Room, Stubenring 20 (p 129)

Best Bar to Wear a Bikini

Best for Romance

★★★ Badeschiff, Donaukanallände (p 130)

★★★ Aux Gazelles, Rahlgasse 5 (p 129)

Best for Celebrity-Spotting

Best People Watching

★★★ Eden Bar, Liliengasse 2 (p 131)

★★★ Volksgarten, Burgring 1 (p 131)

Best Beer

Best for Cutting-Edge Sounds

★★★ Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus, Siebensterngasse 19 (p 130)

★★ rhiz, Stadtbahnbögen 37-38, Lerchenfelder Gürtel (p 132)

Best for ‘Chilling’

Most Eccentric Bar

★★★ Icebar Vienna, U-Bahnbögen 186-188, Döblinger Gürtel (p 132)

★★★ phil, Gumpendorfer Strasse 10-12 (p 129)

Best Wines

Best Country-Style Bar

★★★ Meinl’s Weinbar, Näglergasse 8 (p 129)

★★ Landsknecht-Treff, Naschmarkt 217-219 (p 129)

Best Dance Club

Best Views

★★★ Flex, Donaukanal (by the Augartenbrücke) (p 130)

★★ Onyx, Stephansplatz 12 (p 13)

Best Cocktail Lounge

★★ American Bar, Kärntner Durchgang 10 (p 35)

★★ Planter’s Club, Zelinkagasse 4 (p 131)

Best Jugendstil Bar

Best Beach Party in the City ★★ Strandbar Herrmann, Herrmannpark/Urania (p 130)

Most Eccentric Bar: Phil’s.

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The Best Nightlife

128

129

Bars ★★★ Aux Gazelles MQ This tiny oriental-themed club is great for chilling out to mellow Arabian rhythms. While away the evening sipping exotic cocktails Bedouin-style on comfy cushions in its intimate, sumptuous interior. Rahlgasse 5.

y 01 585 6645. www.auxgazelles.at.
10 cover. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 125. ★ La Divina CITY CENTER Founded in homage to the operatic heroine, Maria Callas, this unique champagne bar relays live opera transmissions (minus the soundtrack) from the nearby Staatsoper. It’s a popular place for pre- or postperformance drinks. Hanuschgasse 3. y 01 513 4319. www.ladivina.at. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). Map p 126.

★★ Landsknecht-Treff NASCHMARKT Stepping into this small, rustic bar in the heart of the Naschmarkt is like walking into a cosy Austrian country pub. Pineclad, warm and homely, you’re sure to receive a warm welcome, excellent local wines or beers and, if you’re lucky, some snacks fresh from the market. Naschmarkt 217-219. y 0676 723 8880. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 125. ★★ Lutz MQ A lively crowd frequents the trendy Lutz bar with its gleaming cocktail bar, wraparound leather banquettes, and cigar menu. There’s a choice of over 200 cocktails, long drinks, and champagnes. Arrive after 10pm. Mariahilferstrasse 3. y 01 585 3646. www.lutzbar.at. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 125.

★★★ Meinl’s Weinbar CITY CENTER Informal yet classy, this beautiful basement wine-bar is part of the

This tiny city-centre wine bar is an atmospheric venue for some wine-tasting.

city’s celebrated Meinl delicatessen empire. It serves an impressive menu of wines, grappas, champagnes, and brandies by the glass. Näglergasse 8.

y 01 532 33 34 6100. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 126. ★★★ phil MQ A quirky bar/funky furniture shop resembling a large sitting-room, except that everything has a price tag attached. Join the laid-back (non-smoking) crowd, and browse through the books and vinyl records. Gumpendorferstrasse 10–12. y 01 581 0489. www.phil. info. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). Map p 125. ★★★ Red Room RINGSTRASSE Located beneath Comida (a smart Hispano-Caribbean restaurant), this über-chic red bar serves exemplary cocktails to the smart set while the DJ spins lively Black beats on an illuminated dance floor. Stubenring 20.

y 01 512 4024. www.comida.at/ redroom. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 126.

Vienna Nightlife A to Z

Vienna Nightlife A to Z

The Best Nightlife

130 ★★ Sektcomptoir NASCHMARKT Just off the Naschmarkt, this diminutive locals’ bar is an ideal place to relax and relish a glass of Sekt (sparkling wine) after a long day’s sightseeing. Schleifmühlgasse 19. y 0664 432 5388. www.sektcomptoir.at. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). ★★ Strandbar Herrmann CITY CENTER Soak up the holiday mood at this lively summertime beach bar beside the Danube Canal, with its golden sandy beach, Mediterraneanstyle bar, cheerful cocktails, and trendy DJ sounds. Herrmannpark/Urania. y No phone. www.strandbarherrmann.at. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 126. ★★★ Weinorgel CITY CENTER A tiny brick-clad wine-bar in the vaults of a former Gothic monastery. Peanuts and sawdust bestrew a simple wooden floor. World wines by the glass. Bäckerstrasse 2. y 01 513 1227. www.weinorgel.at. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 126.

Beer Cellars ★★ Plutzer Bräu SPITTELBERG This hugely popular loft-style Bierkeller with brick vaulting and long, blond-wood tressel tables is a Spittelberg stalwart. In summer, the tables spill on to a lovely cobbled terrace. Schrankgasse 2. y 01 526 1215. www.plutzerbraeu.at. Tram 49 (Stiftgasse). Map p 125.

★★★ Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus NEUBAU A lively brew-pub with its own range of eight distinctive beers brewed in situ and served in rustic cellar

rooms or under the shade of chestnut trees in the beer-garden. Try the Chili Beer. Siebensterngasse 19.

y 01 523 8697. www.7stern.at. Tram 49 (Stiftgasse). Map p 125. Dance Clubs ★★★ Badeschiff CITY CENTER Enjoy cocktails and DJ sounds from hip-hop and Indie to Turbo-Folk and Balkan beats on this funky summertime moored ‘ship’ on the Danube Canal. There’s a swimming pool too. Donaukanallände (between Schwedenbrücke and Urania). y 0699 1513 0749. www. badeschiff.at. UBahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 126.

★★★ Flex ALSERGRUND The best dance club in town, famous for its awesome sound system, with topnotch DJs and a huge variety of cutting-edge beats, including techno, indie, and underground rock. Go on Tuesday nights for Viennese electronica at its best. Donaukanal (by the Augartenbrücke). y 01 533 7525. www.flex.at.
3 cover. U-Bahn 2/4 (Schottenring). Map p 126.

★★★ passage RINGSTRASSE This futuristic club in a former subway has minimalist décor and an ultra-cool lighting system. Backdrops morph to suit varying sounds (house, disco, hip-hop, funk, etc.) on different nights. Babenburgerpassage, Burgring 1. y 01 961 8800. www.sunshine.at. Tram 1/2/D/J (Burgring). Map p 125.

★★ Planter’s Club ALSERGRUND The leather seats and potted palms of this colonial-style bar attract a

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Vienna Nightlife A to Z

chic set for cocktails and a wide choice of rum and whisky, plus lively Latin beats on the small dance floor. Zelinkagasse 4. y 01 533 3393-15. www.plantersclub.com. U-Bahn 2/4 (Schottenring). Map p 126.

★★★ Volksgarten RINGSTRASSE Vienna’s beautiful people love this hot and happening party complex. It’s all here—house, hip-hop, soul, techno, funk, salsa . . . plus an idyllic garden and an electronic roof that opens for moonlit dancing in summer. Burgring 1. y 01 485 8924. www.volksgarten.at.
5–
15 (depending on event). Tram 1/2/D/J (Burgring). Map p 125.

Gay & Lesbian ★★ Café Willendorf NASCHMARKT The affectionately named Rosa Lila Villa (pink-purple villa) is at the heart of the Viennese gay and lesbian scene. There’s a lovely courtyard garden in summer.

Sekt (sparkling wine) is a popular aperitif in many of Vienna’s bars, and especially here at the Sektcomptoir.

Linke Wienzeile 102. y 01 587 1789. www.cafe-willendorf.at. UBahn 4 (Pilgramgasse). Map p 125.

Live Music ★★★ Eden Bar CITY CENTER

Indie and underground rock at Flex.

Anyone who’s anyone in Vienna drinks at this atmospheric, sophisticated bar with its plush-red, ArtDeco interior and live music nightly from 10pm. Dress smartly (men must wear ties). Liliengasse 2.

y 01 512 7450. www.edenbar.at. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 126. ★ Fluc Café PRATER This rugged bar is one of the best places in town to hear live, experimental, electronic, and indie acts, while Fluc Wanne in the basement stages electro and disco parties putting on a broad range of DJ sounds. Praterstern 5. y No phone. www.fluc.at. U-Bahn 1/2 (Praterstern). Map p 126. ★★ Jazzland CITY CENTER For over 30 years, this brick-built club in a cellar under Ruprechtskirche (St. Rupert’s Church) has showcased the best of Austrian and international

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jazz, from blues, Dixie, and swing to modern jazz. Franz-Josefs-Kai 29.

y 01 533 2575. www.jazzland.at. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 126. ★★ Porgy & Bess STADTPARK This relaxed, modern jazz joint in a former porn cinema is hugely popular thanks to its eclectic program of world-class, home-grown and international modern and non-traditional jazz acts. Riemergasse 11. y 01 512 8811. www.porgy.at. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). Map p 126.

Gürtel Party Tour The Gürtel ring-road is currently the nerve center of Vienna’s nightlife. Beneath the Jugendstil arches of the city railway designed by Otto Wagner lies a mixed bag of dance clubs, pubs, and bars. It’s the in-place to party all night long to the sound of trains rumbling overhead. Start: Josefstädter Strasse U-Bahn station. ★★ rhiz One of the cradles of Vienna’s renowned electronica scene, this laid-back Internet cafébar remains a popular platform for new projects and experiments in electronic music. Stadtbahnbögen 37-38, Lerchenfelder Gürtel. y 01 409 2505. www.rhiz.org. Map p 128.

★ B72 Situated under Arch 72 of the Gürtel (ring-road), this oldtimer’s specialty is alternative live music and electronic sounds. Dark, smoky, and split-level, it draws a lively young crowd. Stadtbahnbögen 72, Hernalser Gürtel. y 01 409 2128. www.b72.at. Map p 128.

★★★ Q [kju:] There’s always a great party mood at Q, where the clientele are young and carefree, the cocktails potent, the barmen flashy and the dance music loud. It’s easy to find, occupying three arches bathed in pink, red, and green fluorescent light. Relaxed door policy. Stadtbahnbögen 142-144, Währinger Gürtel. y No phone. www.kjubar.at. Map p 128.

★★ Weinstadt This soothing wine-bar, simply decorated with bare brick vaults, is the perfect place to relax with friends. It offers an excellent choice of local and international wines, including chalkboard specials, to wash down platters of cold cuts, cheeses, and olives. Stadtbahnbögen 154, Währinger Gürtel. y 01 319 6538. www.weinstadt.cc. Map p 128.

★★★ Babu The place to see and be seen, this long-standing cocktail lounge and dance club attracts a cool crowd. It’s a lively venue on several floors. Dress smartly, there’s a strict door policy. Stadtbahnbögen 181-184, Nussdorferstasse. y 01 479 4849. www.babu.at. Cover charge varies. Map p 128.

★★★ Icebar Vienna Chill out literally here. Everything is made of ice: the bar, the seats, even the glasses. Never mind the temperature (minus 5°). You get suitable clothing when you arrive. Stadtbahnbögen 186-188, Döblinger Gürtel. y 01 367 0216. www.icebarvienna.com.
18 cover charge (includes first cocktail). Map p 128.

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Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Best Acoustics

Best Ecclesiastical Sounds

★★★ Musikverein, Karlsplatz/Bösendorferstrasse 12 (p 137)

★★ Augustinerkirche, Augustinerstrasse 3 (p 137)

Most Angelic Choirboys

★★★ Burgkino, Opernring 19 (p 138)

★★★ Wiener Sängerknaben, Schweizerhof (p 137)

Best Cinema to Snooze in

Best Show for Kids

Best Place to Meet a Mozart Look-alike

★★ Lilarum Puppet Theater, Göllnergasse 8 (p 139)

strasse 7 (p 137)

Best “Jungle” in Town ★★ Dschungel Wien, Museumsplatz 1 (p 139)

Most Palatial Setting for a Concert ★ Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte, Orangerie Schönbrunn (p 137)

The Hottest Ticket in Town ★★★ Staatsoper, Opernring 2 (p 139) Best acoustics at Musikverein.

Konzerte im Mozarthaus, Singer-

Best Chance of Getting Standing-Room Tickets ★★ Volksoper, Währingerstrasse 78 (p 139)

Best Ballet ★★★ Das Ballett der Wiener Staatsoper und Volksoper, Opernring 2 (p 138)

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Classical Music ★★ Augustinerkirche HOFBURG The Gothic Augustinian Church boasts fine acoustics, and sacred works by Haydn, Mozart, and Schubert are frequently performed here during Sunday Mass (11am). Augustinerstrasse 3 (entrance on Josefsplatz). y No phone. www. hochamt.at. Free admission. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse). Map p 135.

★★ Konzerthaus STADTPARK A major venue for classical symphony and chamber music, played by the resident Vienna Symphony Orchestra and other renowned ensembles. Lothringerstrasse 20. y 01 242 002. www. konzerthaus.at. Tickets (Prices vary). U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Map p 135. ★ Konzerte im Mozarthaus CITY CENTER Listen to Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, and Beethoven chamber music in the intimate Sala Terrena of the Deutschordenshaus, where Mozart used to live and play in 1781. Concerts Thurs–Sun. Singerstrasse 7. y 01 911 9077. www.mozarthaus.at. Tickets
35,
42. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). Map p 135. ★ Kursalon Wien STADTPARK Cheerfully enjoyable (albeit very touristic) soirées of Viennese waltz

classics with the Salonorchester Alt Wien. Johannesgasse 33. y 01 512 5790. www.kursalonwien.at. Tickets
39–
90 (
66–
123 including dinner). U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Map p 135.

★★★ Musikverein CITY CENTER Venue for the city’s celebrated New Year’s Day concert, played by the resident Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, one of the finest in the world. Karlsplatz/Bösendorferstrasse 12. y 01 505 8190. www.musikverein.at. Tickets
4 (standing only)–
85. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 135. ★ Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte SCHÖNBRUNN Step back in

time at one of the daily concerts of popular Viennese classics staged in the Orangery of the Schönbrunn Palace, where Mozart once performed. Orangerie Schönbrunn.

y 01 812 5004-0. www.image vienna.com. Tickets:
39–
75. U-Bahn 4 (Schönbrunn). Map p 136.

★★★ Wiener Sängerknaben HOFBURG Founded over 500 years ago, the Vienna Boys’ Choir is perhaps the most famous of its kind in the world. Hear them sing Mass at the Hofburg’s ancient Burgkapelle on Sundays (mid-Sept–June) at 9.15am. Schweizerhof. y 01 553 9927. www.hofburgkapelle.at

The Kursalon—the place to hear Strauss waltzes.

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How to Get Tickets Get details of what’s on when from tourist offices, or in the listings magazine Falter (www.falter.at), published every Wednesday and available from a Tabak (newsagent) or a sidewalk kiosk. Tickets can be bought in advance directly from the individual venues or online at ticketing agencies such as Austria Ticket Online (www. austriaticket.at) or Club Ticket (www.clubticket.at). The Wien-Ticket Pavillon ticket-booth beside the opera-house (Karajanplatz. y 01 58885. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm) sells tickets for all venues. The Bundestheaterkassen (State Ticket Office) sells tickets for the Akademietheater, Burgtheater, Staatsoper, and Volksoper (Hanuschgasse 3. y 01 514 447 880. www.bundestheater.at. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–noon. U-Bahn 1/2/4 Karlsplatz). Book as early as you can: ticket sales at many venues (including the Staatsoper, Volksoper, Theater an der Wien, and Musikverein) begin one month ahead of the performance. Some venues offer limited numbers of last-minute standing-only tickets. The Staatsoper, for instance, releases 567 of these standing room tickets just 80 minutes before the performance starts—a bargain if you’re patient enough to queue.

www.wsk.at. Tickets
5–
32. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

Dance ★★★ Das Ballett der Wiener Staatsoper und Volksoper CITY CENTER World-class ballet productions by the crème-de-la-crème of these two recently merged companies—plus a glittering list of guest artistes. Opernring 2. y 01 51444–0. Tickets
2 (standing only),
7–
254. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). Maps p 135 & 136.

★★★ Tanzquartier Wien MQ Vienna’s leading dance center hosts an ambitious program of local and international troupes, with the main emphasis on experimental dance. Halle G, Kunsthalle, MuseumsQuartier, Museumsplatz 1. y 01 581 3591. www.tqw.at. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 136.

Cinema ★★★ Burgkino RINGSTRASSE This tiny, old-fashioned cinema

shows only English-language movies, and regular late-night screenings of The Third Man (set in post–World War II Vienna) in its original British version. Opernring 19. y 01 587 8406. www.burgkino.at. Tickets
6–
8. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). Map p 135.

★★ Muskfilmfestival RINGSTRASSE Vienna has 15 different venues for open-air cinema during the summer festival season. Most popular is the Muskifilmfestival in Rathausplatz. When darkness falls, free screenings of opera and concerts are shown against a dramatic illuminated backdrop of the City Hall (Jun–Aug). Rathausplatz. y No phone. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). Map p 135.

Opera & Musicals ★★ Kammeroper CITY CENTER This small opera-house puts on a varied repertoire of everything from classic operetta and opera buffa (comic opera) to rock opera and more

139

Währingerstrasse 78. y 01 514 44–3318. www.volksoper.at. Tickets
1.50/
2 (standing only),
4–
75. U-Bahn 6 (Volksoper). Map p 136.

Theater ★ Akademietheater STADTPARK

Book in advance for a night at the Opera.

quirky contemporary musical theater. Fleischmarkt 24. y 01 512 0100–77. www.wienerkammeroper.at. Tickets
5 (standing only),
15–
65. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz). Map p 135.

★★ Raimund Theater MARIAHILF In recent years, this theater has made its name as the definitive venue for musical comedy, premiering the German-language versions of blockbuster hits such as Cats and Phantom of the Opera. Wallgasse 18–20. y 01 599 77–0. www.musicalvienna. at. Tickets
10–
98. U-Bahn 6 (Gumpendorfer Strasse). Map p 136. ★★★ Staatsoper CITY CENTER One of Europe’s finest opera-houses, with daily performances from September to June and kids’ opera in summer. Opernring 2. y 01 514 442

250 (information); y 01 513 1513 (tickets). www.wiener-staatsoper.at. Tickets
2 (standing only),
7–
254. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). Map p 135.

★★ Theater an der Wien NASCHMARKT Founded in 1801 as an opera-house, this plush theater premiered Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte, Beethoven’s Fidelio, and Johann Strauss’s Die Fledermaus. Today it hosts opera and musical theater. Linke Weinzeile 6. y 01 58885. www. theater-wien.at. Tickets
11–
140. U-Bahn 1/2/ 4 (Karlsplatz). Map p 135. ★★ Volksoper ALSERGRUND Affordable and fun, the ‘People’s Opera’ is the city’s leading

This excellent repertory theater (a second venue for the Burgtheater) covers everything from classic to contemporary drama. Lisztstrasse 1.

y 01 514 44–4740. www.akademie theater.at. Tickets
1.50 (standing only),
4–
48. U-Bahn 1/4 (Stadtpark). Map p 135. ★★★ Burgtheater RINGSTRASSE The National Theatre is one of the best German-speaking theaters in the world. The resplendent foyer has stairway frescoes painted by Klimt. Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2. y 01 514 444440. www.burgtheater.at. Tickets
1.50 (standing only),
4–
48. Tram D/1/2 (Dr-Karl-Lueger-Ring). Map p 135.

=

★★ Dschungel Wien MQ Language is no barrier for kids at the lively ‘Jungle’ family arts center with theater, dance, puppet shows, video, and music workshops for kids aged 2 and over. Museumsplatz 1. y 01 522 0720–20. www.dschungel wien.at. Tickets
7.50. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier). See p 136.

= Lilarum Puppet Theater LANDSTRASSE Kids (aged

★★

3–10) find the Lilarum’s mini-plays enchanting, with their charming handand rod-puppets. The stories seem to transcend any language barriers. Göllnergasse 8. y 01 710 2666. www. lilarum.at. Tickets
7.60. U-Bahn 3 (Kardinal-Nagl-Platz). Map p 135.

★★★ Schauspielhaus ALSERGRUND Of Vienna’s 50-plus theaters, the Schauspielhaus is at the forefront of contemporary productions—often of a thought-provoking, controversial, or alternative

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operetta-house. It also stages light opera, classical musicals, and ballet.

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Vienna Boys’ Choir The Vienna Boys’ Choir (Wiener Sängerknaben, www.wsk.at) was founded in 1498 as part of the imperial choir. Originally it had just 12 boys. Over the centuries it grew in size, and counted musical luminaries such as Haydn and Schubert among its members. Nowadays Vienna’s leading choir is a highly commercialized and rather overhyped organization. Four separate choirs, each consisting of 24 angelic choirboys, continuously tour the world, no longer dressed in imperial costumes, but in twee blue sailor-suits. In Vienna, they sing Sunday Mass in the Burgkapelle and give occasional concerts in the Musikverein.

nature. Porzellangasse 19. y 01 317 0101-11. www.schauspielhaus.at. Tickets
18 adults;
9 students;
12 concessions. Tram D (Bauernfeldplatz). Map p 136.

oldest English-language theater was founded in 1963, and offers yearround showings of English and American classics, comedies, and contemporary works. Josefgasse 12.

★ Theater in der Josefstadt JOSEFSTADT One of Vienna’s oldest, best-loved, and most ornate theaters, founded in 1788, and known for its lightweight plays, comedies, and farces. Josefstädterstrasse 24-26. y 01 42700-300. www.josefstadt.org. Tickets
5–
63. Bus 13A (Theater in der Josefstadt). Map p 136.

y 01 402 1260. www.english theatre.at. Tickets
19.50–
38. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). Map p 136.

★★ Vienna’s English Theater JOSEFSTADT Continental Europe’s

★ Volkstheater MQ With an auditorium holding nearly a thousand, this is one of the city’s largest theaters. It puts on an exceptionally broad repertoire, embracing classic and modern plays and operetta. Neustiftgasse 1.

y 01 52 111–400. www.volkstheater. at. Tickets
8–
40. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). Map p 136.

•

Head upstairs at the Volkstheater to the swanky chandelier-lit Rote Bar.

9

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Lodging Best Bets Best Urban Luxury ★★★ Do & Co $$–$$$$ Stephansplatz 12 (p 149)

Best Cosy Bed & Breakfast ★★★ The Rooms $ Schlenthergasse 17 (p 154)

Best ‘Beach’ Hotel ★★ Strand Hotel Alte Donau $ Wagramerstrasse 51 (p 153)

Best Boutique Hotel ★★★ Altstadt $$ Kirchengasse 41 (p 148)

Best for a Romantic Getaway ★★★ Hollmann Beletage $$ Köllnerhofgasse 6 (p 150)

Best Spa Hotel ★★ The Ring $$$$ Kärtner Ring 8 (p 154)

Sacher—Vienna’s most historic hotel.

Best See-and-be-Seen Hotel ★★★ Le Méridien $$–$$$$ Opernring 13 (p 151)

Best for Families ★★ Lassalle $$–$$$ Engerthstrasse 173-5 (p 151)

Most Historic Hotel (also best for chocolate cake) ★★★ Sacher $$$$ Philharmonikerstrasse 4 (p 153)

Worst for the Wallet ★★★ Palais Coburg Residenz $$$$ Coburgbastei 4 (p 152)

Best for Design Buffs ★★★ Das Triest $$ Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12 (p 148)

Best for Design Buffs on a Tight Budget

= Roomz $ Paragonstrasse 1

★★ (p 152)

Most Eccentric Decor ★★ Kuchlmasterei $$ Obere Weissgerberstrasse 6 (p 151)

Most Humble Abode ★★ Benediktushaus $ Freyung 6a (p 148)

Most Environmentally-Friendly Hotel ★★ Hotel am Stephansplatz $$–$$$ Stephansplatz 9 (p 150)

Most Spectacular Cityscapes ★★★ Schloss Wilhelminenberg $$–$$$ Savoyenstrasse 2 (p 153)

Best for Wine Connoisseurs ★★★ Rathaus Wein & Design $$ Lange Gasse 13 (p 152)

Most Royal Welcome ★★★ Imperial $$$$ Kärtner Ring 16 (p 150)

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Vienna Lodging A to Z ★★★ Altstadt SPITTELBERG Exotic and decadent yet homely, this boutique hotel in a converted patrician house oozes style, with lavish wallpapers, velvets, and freestanding baths. Kirchengasse 41. y 01 522 6666. www.altstadt.at. 42 units. Doubles
129–
189 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). ★ Ambassador CITYCENTER Add your name to the visitors’ book alongside such luminaries as composer Franz Lehár, actress Marlene Dietrich, and writer Mark Twain at this upscale hotel. Kärtnerstrasse 22/Neuer Markt 5. y 01 961 610. www.ambassador.at. 80 units. Doubles
230–
270. AE, DC, MC, V. UBahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

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★ Arcotel Kaiserwasser DANUBE A large, modern hotel next to UNO City, with its own gardens, wellness center and beach area, all just a 10-minute U-Bahn ride from the city center. Wagramer Strasse 8. y 01 224 24-0. www. arcotel.at. 282 units. Doubles
109–
650. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1 (Kaisermühlen).

★★ Austria Trend Hotel Europa CITY CENTER Ideally

located on a pedestrian street in the city center, this business-class hotel combines modern furnishings with Austrian charm. Kärtnerstrasse 18.

y 01 51594. www.austria-trend. at/euw. 158 rooms. Doubles
340. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★ Benediktushaus FREYUNG A convenient, affordable alternative to a standard city-center hotel, this guesthouse is run by Benedictine monks, with simple rooms overlooking tranquil cloisters. Freyung 6a.

y 01 5349 8900. www.schottenstift. at. 21 units. Doubles
99–
107 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

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★★ Bristol RINGSTRASSE The exuberant marble lobby of this landmark hotel belies the tasteful fin-de-siècle charm of its rooms. For the ultimate indulgence, reserve the Prince of Wales suite. Kärntner Ring 1. y 01 515 160. www.luxury collection.com/bristol. 140 units. Doubles
235–
630. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). ★★★ Das Triest MARIAHILF Formerly used as a stable on the Vienna–Trieste stagecoach route in the 17th century, this boutique hotel now has chic modern interiors designed by Sir Terence Conran, attracting an arty clientele. Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12. y 01 589 180. www.dastriest.at. 72 units. Doubles
265–
273 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 62/65 (Paulanergasse). The stylish Altstadt.

149

Vienna Lodging A to Z

Arcotel Kaiserwasser.

★★ Das Tyrol MQ This small luxury hotel near the MuseumsQuartier offers friendly service, comfortable stylish rooms, and an impressive collection of contemporary Austrian art. Mariahilfer Straße 15. y 01 587 5415. www.das-tyrol.at. 30 units. Doubles
149–
259 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Museumsquartier).

★ Deutschmeister SERVITEN Just a few minutes’ walk from the Ringstrasse, this friendly hotel offers good value, with clean, simple rooms and a superb buffet breakfast. Grünentorgasse 30. y 01 310 3404. www.city-hotels.at. 52 units. Doubles
98–
240 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Rossauer Lände). ★★★ Do & Co CITY CENTER Sophisticated suede walls, teak floors and deep sofas are the hallmarks of this glossy, bulbous hotel and rooftop restaurant in the iconic Haas Haus, with unparalleled views over Stephansplatz and the cathedral. Stephansplatz 12. y 01 24188. www.doco.com. 43 units. Doubles
220–
450. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★ Domizil CITYCENTER This charming hotel has light, spacious rooms and a homely atmosphere. It is ideally placed for shopping and sightseeing in the city center. Schulerstrasse 14. y 01 513 3199. www.hoteldomizil.at. 40 units.

Doubles
125–
185 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★ Drei Kronen NASCHMARKT The ‘Three Crowns’ (of Austria, Hungary and Bohemia) are carved on the façade of this simple but comfortable hotel. Ask for a room overlooking the Naschmarkt. Schliefmühlgasse 25. y 01 587 3289. www.hotel3kronen.at. 41 units. Doubles
70–
115 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/2/4 (Karlsplatz).

★★ Falkensteiner Hotel am Schottenfeld NEUBAU Dramatic

colored-lighting effects distinguish this trendy, modern hotel. It attracts a young and savvy clientele. Schottenfeldgasse 74. y 01 526 5181. www.falkensteiner.com/schottenfeld. 95 units. Doubles
129–
219 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 48 (Zieglergasse/Burggasse).

★★ Franz SCHOTTENRING Furnished in Old-Viennese baroque style, this cozy pension is a popular budget choice. Its interconnected rooms are well suited to family groups. Währingerstrasse 12. y 01 310 4040-0. www.hotelpensionfranz. at. 24 units.
89–
95 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

★★ Graben CITYCENTER Smart and central, there’s no better location

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Boutique Hotel Das Triest.

if you want to hit the main shopping streets. Ask for a superior double room. Dorotheergasse 3. y 01 512 1531. www.kremslehnerhotels.at. 41 units. Doubles
180–
255 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

★★★ Hollmann Beletage CITY CENTER Spacious rooms, designer furniture, and plenty of home comforts make this inner-city sanctuary a welcoming bolt hole. Köllnerhofgasse 6. y 01 961 1960. www. hollman-beletage.at. 16 rooms. Doubles
140–
180 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

= Hotel am Stephansplatz CITY CENTER The central

★★

location of this hotel (right next to the cathedral) is unbeatable. Run on eco-friendly lines (sustainable wood, organic meals, recycling), its organic breakfasts are delicious. Stephansplatz 9. y 01 53 405–0. www.hotelamstephansplatz.at. 56 units. Doubles
190–
250 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

=

★★★ Imperial RINGSTRASSE This sumptuous hotel conjures up the glory days of the Habsburg empire with its palatial rooms. It’s the pick of the bunch for visiting heads of state. Kärtner Ring 16. y 01 501 10–0. www.luxury collection.com/imperial. 138 units.

Doubles
355–
880. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Schwarzenbergplatz).

★ Imperial Riding School Vienna BELVEDERE This elegant

neoclassical hotel near the Belvedere is set in a former riding school. It has an indoor pool, fitness center, and garden. Ungargasse 60. y 01 711 75–0. www.imperialrenaissance.at. 360 units. Doubles
129–
159. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram O (Rennweg).

★ Intercontinental Wien STADTPARK The stark modern façade conceals a palatial interior of lavish décor and top-notch amenities, including business and fitness centers. Johannesgasse 28. y 01 711 22–0. www.intercontinental. com/vienna. 453 units. Doubles
180–
400. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). ★★ Kärtnerhof CITYCENTER Hidden down a tiny lane, this quiet, friendly hotel has traditional furnishings and a roof terrace. It makes a popular choice for budget-conscious visitors. Grasshofgasse 4. y 01 512 1923. www.kartnerhof.com. 44 units. Doubles
85–
167 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

★★ Kahlenberg JOSEFSDORF Among the vineyards of the Vienna Woods with superb views of the metropolis, this ultra-modern hotel

151

www.austria-trend.at/kaw. 20 units.
250–
450. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Heiligenstadt) then Bus 38A (Kahlenberg).

★★ Kaiserin Elisabeth CITYCENTER Formerly frequented by Mozart, Wagner and Liszt, this hotel offers traditional Viennese elegance with sumptuous (if slightly over-thetop) furnishings. Weihburggasse 3.

y 01 515 26–0. www.kaiserin elisabeth.at. 63 units. Doubles
208–
245 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★★ König von Ungarn CITY CENTER Step inside and take a time-warp trip to the days when this grand hotel served as a guesthouse for cathedral dignitaries and Mozart lived next door. Schulerstrasse 10. y 01 515 84–0. www.kuv.at. 33 units. Doubles
215 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★ Kuchlmasterei PRATER Small, stylish, and quirky, Kuchlmasterei began life as a restaurant before adding several opulent suites. Treat yourself to the special bath menu. Obere Weissgerberstrasse 6. y 01 712 9000. www. kuchlmasterei.at. 7 units. AE, DC, MC, V. Suite
247. Tram N/O (Hintere Zollamtsstrasse).

Living room, Hollmann Beletage.

★★ Kugel SPITTALBERG The perfect choice for an affordable romantic break in the picturesque Spittalberg area, not far from the MuseumsQuartier. Ask for a room with a fourposter bed. Siebensterngasse 43. y 01 523 3355. www.hotelkugel.at. 34 units. Doubles
80–
120 w/breakfast. No credit cards. Tram 49 (Neubaugasse).

=

★★ Lassalle DANUBE Near the Donauinsel (Danube Island) beaches and the Prater funfair, this hotel is superb for families, with a games room, toddlers’ play-room, and babysitters available upon request. Engerthstrasse 173–5. y 01 213 15–0. www.austria-trend.at/law. 140 units. AE, DC, MC, V. Doubles
150–
300 w/breakfast. U-Bahn 1 (Vorgartenstrasse).

★★★ Le Méridien RINGSTRASSE Relax in the sophisticated spa, then join the smart set for cocktails in the glamorous Shambala Bar. Bedrooms are sleekly minimalist. Opernring 13. y 01 588 900. www.vienna.le meridien.com. 294 units. Doubles
180–
320. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper). ★★ Mailbergerhof CITYCENTER A gorgeous small hotel in a small baroque palace with stables and its own chapel, just a stone’s throw from the cathedral and the opera-house. Annagasse 7. y 01 512 0641. www. mailbergerhof.at. 40 units. Doubles

Vienna Lodging A to Z

makes an idyllic retreat from urban life. Josefsdorf 2. y 01 328 1500.

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Terrace, Rathaus Wein & Design.


180–
260 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

and frequent special offers (check the website for details). Habs-

★ Mercure Wien Zentrum CITYCENTER The most central of several Mercure chain hotels, well placed for exploring the lively Bermuda Triangle nightlife zone. Accommodation is predictably functional, but good value. Fleischmarkt

burgergasse 5. y 01 534 49–0. www.pertschy.com. 50 units. Doubles
105–
167 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz).

1a. y 01 534 60–0. www.mercure. com. 154 units. Doubles
150–
190. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 1/4 (Schwedenplatz).

=

★★ Nossek CITY CENTER Sample true Viennese hospitality in an excellent central location at this friendly little guesthouse, furnished in baroque style. Graben 17. y 01 533 7041–0. www.pension-nossek. at. 32 units. Doubles
115–
143 w/breakfast. No credit cards. U-Bahn 1/3 (Stephansplatz). ★★★ Palais Coburg Residenz CITY CENTER The ultimate in traditional luxury, this regal palace has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a vast wine cellar, and a rooftop pool. Coburgbastei 4. y 01 518 180. www.palais-coburg.com. Doubles
490–
2,140. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Stubentor). ★★ Pertschy CITYCENTER Stay in this pension in a beautiful baroque palace for its pretty, well-proportioned rooms, central location,

★★★ Rathaus Wein & Design JOSEFSTADT This bijou hotel features a different Austrian vintner in the design (and mini-bar) of each room, together with frequent winetasting evenings for its guests. Lange Gasse 13. y 01 400 1122. www.hotel-rathaus-wien.at. 33 units. Doubles
148–
198. U-Bahn 2/3 (Volkstheater). ★ Regina SCHOTTENRING Located in a grand city palace, the main appeal of this traditional, family-run hotel is its rather faded elegance. Ask for a room overlooking the Votivkirche. Währingerstrasse 1.

y 01 402 7995. www.kremslehner hotels.at. 148 units. Doubles
150–
225 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Schottentor).

=

★★ Roomz SIMMERING A ‘budget design hotel’ offering smart, minimalist rooms to designsavvy visitors who can’t afford citycenter prices. An added bonus—it’s right by the funky Gasometer development. Paragonstrasse 1. y 01 743 1777. www.roomz-vienna.com. 152 units. Doubles
63–
109. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Gasometer).

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★★★ Schloss Wilhelminenberg OTTAKRING This former cas-

tle surrounded by parkland in the western outskirts is now a contemporary-style hotel with sensational city vistas. Savoyenstrasse 2. y 01 485 03–0. www.austria-trend. at/wiw. 87 units. Doubles
200–
300. AE, DC, V. U-Bahn 3 (Ottakring) then Bus 46B/146B (Schloss Wilhelminenberg).

★★★

= Starlight Suiten

Hotel am Heumarkt STADTPARK Light, airy apartments and cheerful service are the hallmarks of this central hotel. Ideal for families. Am Heumarkt 15. y 01 710 7808. www. starlighthotels.com. 50 units. Doubles
183–
211 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 4 (Stadtpark). Strand Hotel Alte Donau.

Vienna Lodging A to Z

★★★ Sacher RINGSTRASSE Vienna’s most famous hotel, founded in 1876, retains its palatial 19th-century style, reveling in opulent, romantic rooms and rococo furniture. Its famous Sachertorte is on the musteat list of every tourist. Philharmonikerstrasse 4. y 01 514 560. www.sacher.com. 152 units. Doubles
376–
650. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D (Oper).

Smart apartment at the Starlight Suiten Hotel am Heumarkt.

= Strand Hotel Alte Donau DANUBE A city ‘beach’

★★

hotel, with cheerful rooms, al fresco breakfasts in summer, bikes to hire, and its very own beach complete with rowing boats. Wagramerstrasse 51. y 01 204 4040. www.strand hotel-alte-donau.at. 33 rooms. Doubles
55–
118 w/breakfast. U-Bahn 1 (Alte Donau).

★★ Style Hotel CITY CENTER Housed in a striking Art Nouveau building, this hotel oozes modern urban-chic—think dark wood and plush velvet. Bonuses include superb bathrooms, an Italian-inspired

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restaurant, and the popular H12 bar. Herrengasse 12. y 01 227 800. www.stylehotel.at. 78 units. Doubles
200–
300. U-Bahn 3 (Herrengasse).

★★ The Levante Laudon JOSEFSTADT This chic, minimalist apartment-hotel, within a beautiful Biedermeier house, is popular with business clientele and families for short or extended stays. Laudongasse 8. y 01 407 1370. www.the levante.com. 39 units. Doubles
110–
165, family rooms
160–
230. Tram 5/33 (Laudongasse). ★★★ The Levante Parliament RINGSTRASSE A striking turn-ofthe-century designer hotel, just behind the Austrian Parliament building, with an ultra-modern interior of light natural stone, dark wood, glass, and chrome. Auerspergstrasse 9. y 01 228 28–0. www.thelevante.com. 70 units. Doubles
170–
355 w/breakfast. UBahn 2 (Rathaus). ★★ The Ring RINGSTRASSE Tradition meets modernity at this fivestar hotel near the opera-house. Behind a beautiful 19th-century façade, the stylish but comfortable rooms, snazzy suites, and fitness The contemporary Style Hotel.

spa ooze casual luxury. Kärtner Ring 8. y 01 221 22–0. www.thering hotel.at. Doubles
330–
2,550. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

=

★★★ The Rooms DANUBE This tiny, family-run bed & breakfast near the Old Danube is the perfect retreat for a summer weekend. It has a tranquil garden, delicious home-made breakfasts, and exotically furnished rooms. Schlenthergasse 17. y 0664 431 6830. www. therooms.at. 4 units. Doubles
65–
110 w/breakfast. U-Bahn 1 (Kagran).

★ Wombat’s NEUBAU Billed as the ‘city hostel’, this clean, lively youth hotel is in a trendy quarter near lots of shops and bars. It serves food to hungry clubbers until after midnight. Grangasse 6. y 01 897 2336. www.wombats-hostels.com. 300 beds (mixed or female dorms, double rooms).
19–
25. MC, V. U-Bahn 3/6 (Westbahnhof). ★ Zipser JOSEFSTADT Don’t be put off by the plain façade of this contemporary hotel. It’s a friendly place with beautiful, generously sized bedrooms—some have tranquil, tree-shaded balconies. Lange Gasse 49. y 01 404 54–0. www. zipser.at. 47 units. Doubles
85–
145 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn 2 (Rathaus). ★ Zur Wiener Staatsoper RINGSTRASSE In a prime location near the opera-house, this welcoming family-run hotel oozes Viennese charm. Bedrooms have high ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and floral wallpapers. Krugerstrasse 11. y 01 513 1274. www.zurwienerstaatsoper. at. 22 units. Doubles
111–
140 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram 1/2/D/J (Oper).

•

The Savvy Traveler

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Before You Go Government Tourist Offices In the US: 120 West 45th Street, 9th floor, New York, NY 10036 (y 1 212 944 6885); 6520 Platt Avenue, # 561 West Hills, California, CA 91307-3218 (y 1 818 999 4030). In Canada: 2 Bloor Street West, # 400 Toronto, ON, M4W 3E2 (y 1 416 967 4867). In the UK & Ireland: 9-11 Richmond Buildings, London, W1D 3HF (y 020 7440 3830 or 0845 101 1818 (UK); 0189 093 0118 (Ireland)). In Australia: 1st Floor, 36 Carrington Street, Sydney NSW 2000 (y 02 9299 3621). Wherever you live, the best place for information is the official website of Vienna Tourism at www.vienna.info.

The Best Time to Go The best time to visit is from May to October. May, when the lilac and chestnut trees are in bloom, marks the start of beer-garden season. Months from June to August, when the days are long and hot, are ideal for lazy afternoons in Vienna’s extensive parks; for swimming and sunbathing at the city’s beaches; and for river trips and watersports on the Danube. However, Vienna can get very crowded at the height of summer, especially during school vacations. September marks the start of the theater season as all the major venues launch their new programs and, in October, the new wines from the Wienerwald vineyards are toasted in the city bars and country Heurigen. Another popular time is Christmas, when snow has often fallen, festive decorations and lights illuminate the city, and the streets are filled with stalls selling roasted chestnuts and Glühwein (mulled wine). Many visitors come to shop at the Christmas markets or to enjoy the city’s celebrated New

Year’s Eve festivities. Whenever you choose to visit, there’s always a superb choice of theater and music and over 80 museums to provide entertainment for all the family, whatever the weather.

Climate Vienna’s mild climate means that you can enjoy visiting the city yearround. As a general rule, Vienna has cold winters, hot summers, and a mild climate during spring and fall. May marks the start of balmy days, and al fresco dining (until September). Months between June and August are the hottest with temperatures ranging from 64° to 70° F (18–22° C). This is also the wettest time of year, but the rain helps to keep the city cool and pleasant. September is one of the best months for sightseeing, with crisp, sunny days, comfortable temperatures, and fewer visitors than during high summer. October too, can be very mild and pleasant, when the leaves in the city parks and vineyards start to change color. The notorious Föhn wind can blow at any time of year. This warm, dry Alpine wind often brings crystalclear days (beautiful light for photographs), but it is also blamed for headaches and bad moods. November heralds the first chills of winter. January and February are the coldest months. Snow is frequent, although it rarely settles for long in the city center. It can be surprisingly cold, so remember to bring plenty of warm clothes.

Festivals & Special Events For further information on what’s on, check out the ‘Events’ section of the website www.vienna.info.

157

Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

26 -3 38

35 2 41

53 12 40

55 13 50

59 15 60

64 18 72

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

68 20 60

70 22 62

62 17 42

53 12 40

42 6 50

35 2 42

The Spring Marathon takes place from the Schönbrunn Palace to the Rathaus in April. The Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival) of classical music runs from April to mid-May, alternating each year between the Musikverein and the Konzerthaus. The Wiener Festwochen (Vienna Festival) follows in May. This is Vienna’s main arts festival of opera, theater, and performing arts (from mid-May to mid-June). Spring also marks the start of the Schönbrunn Palace concert season (Mar–Oct), the Prater funfair (Apr–Oct), and performances of the Spanish Riding School (until June).

SPRING

Highlights of this glorious season of balls and open-air entertainment include the Mozart Opera series, performed nightly in the Schönbrunn Park until mid-August, and the Donauinselfest (last weekend in June), a three-day pop festival on Danube Island. The free Musikfilm Festival at the Rathaus (midJuly to mid-Sept) is one of several open-air cinema venues throughout the city. The Vinova wine fair takes place in the Prater (2nd week June), and Vienna’s gay community celebrates late June with the frivolous Regenbogen Parade (Rainbow Parade). On the music front, there’s the Klangbogen music festival (July–Aug) of opera and orchestral music in some of the city’s most celebrated venues, and a Jazz Fest (first two weeks July) at the State Opera House and Volkstheater.

SUMMER

FALL Fall is the cultural start of the year, when the major theaters and opera-houses reopen for the season and launch their new programs. The Spanish Riding School starts to perform again (Sept–June), the trotting races begin in the Krieau at the Prater (until June), and the Vienna Boys Choir sings Mass once more on Sundays (mid-Sept–June) after their summer break. On the Lange Nacht der Museen (1st Sat in Oct), all the museums in the city open from 6pm to 1am, and one ticket allows entry to all of them. At the end of the month, the National Holiday (26 Oct) is an annual holiday celebrating the withdrawal of Allied troops in 1955, following the passing of the Neutrality Act. October also sees the start of Wien Modern (Oct–end Nov), a modern music festival at the Konzerthaus, and the Viennale, Austria’s leading film festival. In November, the Schubertiade concert series takes place at the Musikverein, and Christkindlmärkte, the city’s much-loved Christmas markets open (mid-Nov–end Dec). WINTER Christmas markets are in full swing right across the city for the month of December, at Freyung, Karlsplatz, Spittelberg, Schönbrunn, and Heilgenkreuzerhof. On December 6, St. Nicholas and his wicked companion Krampus make their annual appearance in various St. Nicholas festivities and parades. Christmas is marked by Midnight

Before You Go

VIENNA’S AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE & MONTHLY RAINFALL

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Mass (arrive early to get a seat in the Stephansdom). Christmas Day and Stefanitag (Boxing Day) are public holidays. New Year’s Eve is traditionally celebrated with a performance of Die Fledermaus at the Opera House and Volksoper (shown on large screens in Stephansplatz); Beethoven’s 9th Symphony is performed at the Konzerthaus; and the glittering Kaiserball takes place at the Hofburg. The nation’s largest Silvester (New Year’s Eve) party takes place in the city center, with street entertainment, revelry, and dazzling fireworks. The famous New Year’s Day concert is performed by the Vienna Philharmonic at the Musikverein (requests for tickets for the following year’s concert must arrive in writing at the Musikverein on Jan 2, no sooner, no later). Then there’s ice-skating for everyone (midJan–Feb) in front of the city hall at Vienna Ice Dream, followed by the Fasching carnival season (Jan 6–Ash Wed). Fasching festivities include the Opera Ball (last Thurs before Shrove Tues), one of the grandest society events of the year, climaxing at the lavish Heringschmaus (Ash Wed) buffet. The Haydn Tage concert series (mid-Feb–1st week Mar) takes place at the Konzerthaus.

Useful Websites • www.vienna.info The official website for the Vienna Tourist Board contains lots of useful information on where to stay (including a hotel booking facility); what to do (museums, galleries, sights); where to go (restaurants, theaters, nightlife) and much more. • www.wien.at The city’s municipal online information service, run by local government, contains maps and all sorts of useful information, with sections on business, culture, health, leisure, history, and politics.

• www.aboutvienna.org A fun, English-language website devoted to the city’s sightseeing, culture, and cuisine. • www.austria.info The Austrian National Tourist Board’s website contains everything you need to know for holidaying in Austria, plus a facility for booking accommodation. • www.austriatoday.at Vienna’s sole English-language newspaper is only available online. • www.niederoesterreich.at Information on Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), the region surrounding Vienna. • www.viennaairport.com Useful for flight planning, with details of airport services and transport to and from the city center. • www.oebb.at Timetables, fares, and online booking for the national rail system, the Österreichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB). • www.wienerlinien.at Schedules and routes for the city’s public transport network, including bus, tram, U-Bahn and night-bus systems, plus details of all the various ticket types on offer. • www.ddsg-blue-danube.at Details of sightseeing cruises and special day-trips on the waterways of the Danube.

Cellphones (Mobiles) Austria is on the GSM 1800 (Global System for Mobiles) wireless network, which means that world phones are the only US phones that can be used in Vienna. In Europe, check with your local network provider before leaving home, and confirm that your phone is unlocked (and therefore able to receive international calls). GSM phones work with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number

159

Car Rentals Don’t bother! Driving in Vienna is a nightmare. You’re much better

sticking to the city’s highly efficient public transport system. Vienna is surprisingly compact and many of the main sights are all within easy walking distance. If you really want to rent a vehicle, it is usually cheaper to reserve a car before leaving home, ready for collection at the airport. Try Avis (y 01 7007 32700, www. avis.at); Budget (y 01 7007 32711, www.budget.at); Europcar (y 01 7007 32699, www.europcar.at); Hertz (y 01 7007 32661, www. hertz.at), or Sixt (y 01 7007 36517, www.e-sixt.at).

Getting There By Plane Most visitors fly into Vienna International Airport (y 01 7007-0. www. viennaairport.com) at Schwechat, 20km southeast of the city center, although some European charter flights make use of the cheaper Airport Letisko Bratislava (y +421 2 4857 3353. www.airportbratislava.sk), just 60km east of Vienna. At Vienna International Airport, the Vienna Tourist Service desk at Baggage Reclaim (y 01 7007 32875, daily 8.30am–9pm) can provide general maps and pamphlets and help you find a hotel room if you haven’t reserved ahead. To reach the city center, follow signs to the S-Bahn suburban train station (y 01 05 1717, www.oebb.at, 5.39am– 00.09am) for cheap, easy connections to the city center (running every 9 and 39 minutes past the hour). It takes 24 minutes on the S7 to reach Wien Mitte central station and costs
4.40. Note that to return to the airport, you need to catch the S2 (not the S7), which runs at 22 and 55 minutes past the hour. The City Airport Train (CAT, y 01 252 50, www.cityairporttrain.com, 5.38am–11.08pm,
9)

takes 16 minutes, but it is the more expensive option. Airport Express buses (y 01 7007 32300, 5am–midnight,
6) shuttle every 30 minutes to Schwedenplatz in the city center, where there are U-Bahn connections. Journey time is usually about 20 minutes, depending on traffic. Expect to pay around
30 for a taxi-ride to the city center. When travelling to and from the airport, be sure to request airport rates in advance. On arrival at Airport Letisko Bratislava, a shuttle bus operates 11 times a day to Vienna’s Südtiroler Platz. It takes roughly 90 minutes and costs
9. Alternatively catch bus 61 (every 10–20 minutes, 5am–11pm) to the main station, then take a direct train to Vienna’s Südbahnhof (almost hourly, 6:50am–11:50pm,
10.30). From April to October you can arrive by hydrofoil along the Danube from Bratislava in 75 minutes (y 01 588 80, www.ddsg-blue-danube.at. Five sailings daily, from
16). Alternatively, a taxi-ride from Bratislava airport to Vienna city center takes around 45 minutes, and costs approximately
200–
300.

Getting There

and account information. You can buy a cheap pay-as-you-go cellphone at any phone store in Austria for about
50–
80. The major networks—A-1, Drei, One, and T-Mobile —all sell SIM cards with
10 worth of calls for
39. You can top this up using phone cards purchased from supermarkets and Trafik (a chain of tobacconists) for
20 or
40. Local cellphone numbers start with 0650, 0660, 0664, 0676, and 0699.

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By Car Austria has an excellent network of motorways but you need an Autobahnvignette (toll-sticker) in order to drive on them. These are available at gas stations, tobacconists and border-crossing points, and must be attached to the inside of your windscreen. A 10-day vignette costs
7.70. The main access route from the north is on the A22 Danube motorway (Donauuferautobahn); from the west on the A1 western motorway (Westautobahn); the A2 and A23 southern motorways (Südautobahn); and the A4 eastern motorway (Ostautobahn)— the route from Schwechat International Airport. The motorways converge on the Gürtel (outer ringroad). From here, follow signs to Zentrum (city center).

By Train Vienna has several mainline railway stations, three of which have international connections. As a general rule, trains from the west (and some from Budapest) arrive at the Westbahnhof; trains from the south and east at the Südbahnhof; and trains from the

north at Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof. Facilities at each include a travel agency, snack-bars, newsagents, and shops. If you’re arriving by Eurocity train, book in advance (you have to pay a supplement if you book within 72 hours of departure). Reserve a bed if you’re traveling overnight. Many of the night trains have no buffet service, so bring some drinks and snacks with you.

By Bus International coach connections can be long and uncomfortable so I don’t really recommend them. There is no central bus station, so your arrival destination will vary, depending which company you’re traveling with. Wien Mitte coach station handles most of the international coach services as well as domestic routes from eastern Austria. Domestic coach routes from southern and southwestern Austria terminate at the Südbahnhof coach station. Eurolines (y 01 798 2900, www.eurolines.at) offer coach services throughout Europe, arriving at the bus station at the U3 U-Bahn station of Erdberg, and occasionally at Südbahnhof.

Getting Around On Foot Vienna is easy to explore on foot. Most of the major attractions lie within the Ringstrasse, and the Tourist Office has an excellent, free map to help you. Don’t worry if you get lost—the graceful tower of the Stephansdom is never far from sight and always useful for orientation.

Public Transport Ticket System Vienna’s comprehensive public transport system is clean, fast, and very efficient. It comprises the UBahn (underground trains), S-Bahn

(regional trains), trams, and buses and it’s easy to use. Flat-fare tickets are valid for all modes of transport, and can be purchased at tobacconists and in U-Bahn stations from automatic machines (with instructions in English) and occasionally staffed ticket offices. Before boarding a train, you must put your ticket in the blue validating machine (Entwerter) in the entrances to the U-Bahn stations. On buses and trams you must immediately stamp your ticket upon boarding. Traveling without a valid ticket can result in a heavy fine. Tickets and passes

161

By U-Bahn The U-Bahn (underground train) is the fastest way of getting about town, although admittedly it’s not as scenic as the trams. There are five color-coded routes (U1—red, U2— purple, U3—orange, U4—green, U6—brown). Transport maps are posted in all stations; free maps are available from Wiener Linien (y 01 790 9100, www.wienerlinien.at); and an electronic board on the platform indicates the destination of the next train and the waiting time until its arrival. The U-Bahn runs daily from about 5am until just after midnight, with trains at approximately 5-minute intervals (more frequent at

rush hour); every 7–8 minutes after 8.30pm.

By Tram or Bus Trams are my favorite mode of transport. I especially enjoy touring the Ringstrasse by tram (numbers 1 and 2 go right round) to admire the fine architecture of the city center. As with buses, trams are identified by numbers and/or letters. Bus routes 1A, 2A, and 3A are city-center minihoppers. Most routes operate from 5am until midnight, when a useful network of night buses (marked with a blue ‘N’) operates until 5am. Details of individual routes can be found at www.wienerlinien.at.

By Taxi There are taxi-ranks at many busy junctions, and outside most large hotels. You can hail a taxi in the street if its yellow sign is lit up, or book one by phone (y 01 601 60; 01 401 00; 01 313 00; 01 814 00).

By Car Vienna’s maze of narrow one-way streets, its expensive, restricted parking, and ubiquitous trams (which always take priority over other traffic) make driving in the city center decidedly stressful and best avoided. If you do drive anywhere in Austria, remember to keep to the right-hand side.

Fast Facts APARTMENT RENTALS For long-term accommodation (including shortterm lets), look at Bazar magazine, or online at www.bazar.at, for the latest listings of apartments or rooms to rent. The previous chapter (The Best Lodging) contains details of a couple of apartment-hotels.

The easiest way to get euros is via bank or credit card at one of the many ATMs (called Bankomats), which are dotted about the city. Be warned, however, you may be charged a fee for withdrawing money from your home bank account, and credit-card companies charge interest.

ATMS

Fast Facts

include an Einzelfahrschein (Single Ticket,
1.70/
2.20 if purchased on trams and buses, correct change required); a Streifenkarte (Strip Card,
6.80, for four journeys); a 24-Stunden Wien-Karte (24 hours unlimited travel,
5.70); a 72-Stunden WienKarte (72 hours unlimited travel,
13.60); an 8-Tage-Karte (valid for 8 days—not necessarily consecutive ones,
27.20) and a Wochenkarte (valid Mon–Sun only,
12.50). The Vienna Card (
18.50) also provides 72 hours of unlimited travel plus other discounts (see Passes, p 165). Kids under six travel free; kids under 15 travel free on Sundays and during the Viennese school holidays.

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162 BABYSITTING Many mid- to upperrange hotels can arrange babysitting services. Otherwise, contact WienXtra-Kinderinfo (y 01 4000 84 400, www.kinderinfowien.at) for details of reputable babysitting agencies.

Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm (4.30pm Thurs). BANKING HOURS

BIKE RENTALS Vienna has over 300km of marked cycle paths and plenty of bike-hire outlets (Mar–Oct), including Pedal Power, Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (y 01 729 7234, www.pedalpower.at); Bicycle Rental Hochschaubahn, Prater 113, by the roller-coaster ride (y 01 729 5858); and Bicycle & Skate Rental Copa Cagrana, Reichsbrücke, Am Damm 1, Danube Island (y 01 263 5242, www.fahrradverleih.at). Prices start at around
5 (1 hour),
15 (half-day) and
24 (full day). There’s also a bike-hire system called Citybike (Herrengasse 1-3, y 0810 500 500, www.citybikewien.at), with over 50 pick-up points around town—look out for the distinctive circular red ‘Citybike’ sign. All you need is a credit card (MC or V) to release a bicycle at one of the bike stations. You can only hire one Citybike per card. The first hour is free of charge, then rates increase from
1 for 2 hours to
4 for 4 hours. You can return the Citybike to any bike station. The fee debited will depend on the time you return the bicycle to an empty bike box. If you don’t have a credit card, you can buy a Tourist Card (
2 per day plus a small deposit) from Royal Tours, Herrengasse 1-3 (9am-11.30am; 1pm-6pm daily) or Pedal Power, Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (9am-7pm daily) and then pay the accrued fees when you return the card. BUSINESS HOURS Most shops open Mon–Fri 9am–6pm (5pm Sat). Some larger stores open late on Thursdays

until 9pm. Supermarkets open Mon–Fri 8am–6pm or 7pm; until 5pm Sat. General office hours are Mon–Fri 8am–3.30pm (or sometimes 4 or 5pm). CLIMATE

See ‘Weather’.

CONCERTS

See ‘Theater Tickets’.

American Embassy, Boltzmanngasse 16 (y 01 313 39–0, www.usembassy. at). Canadian Embassy, Laurenzerberg 2 (y 01 531 38 3000; www. kanada.at). British Embassy, Jauresgasse 12 (y 01 716 130; www. britishembassy.at). Irish Embassy, Rotenturmstrasse 16-18 (y 01 715 4246, www.embassyofireland.at). Australian Embassy, Mattiellistrasse 2 (y 01 506 740, www. australian-embassy.at). For other embassies and consulates, consult the Austrian Foreign Ministry website at www.bmaa.gv.at. CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

Anyone arriving from outside the EU is allowed to bring into Austria up to 200 cigarettes, two bottles of wine, and one bottle of liquor, duty free. There are no limits for anyone arriving from another EU country. For specifics on what you can bring home with you, Americans should consult US Customs (y 202 354 1000, www.customs. gov). Canadians should contact the Canadian Customs & Revenue Agency (y 800 461 9999, www. ccra-adrc.gc.ca). British should contact HM Revenue & Customs (y 0845 010 9000, www.hmce. gov.uk). Australians should contact Australian Customs Services (y 02 6275 6666, www.customs. gov.au). New Zealanders should contact New Zealand Customs (y 1800 428 786 60, www. customs.govt.nz).

CUSTOMS

DENTISTS

See ‘Emergencies’.

Breakfast in Vienna traditionally consists of a cup of coffee accompanied by a bread roll or DINING

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DOCTORS See ‘Emergencies’.

Like most of Continental Europe, Austria uses the 220-volt system (two round prongs). American (110-volt) appliances will need both a transformer and an adapter plug. Some electronic items, including most laptops, have built-in transformers but will still need a simple adapter. UK 240-volt appliances need a continental adapter, widely available at home but difficult to find in Austria.

ELECTRICITY

EMBASSIES See ‘Consulates and Embassies’.

Dial 133 for police, 122 for fire, 144 for an ambulance, 141 for an emergency doctor. Hospitals (Krankenhäuser) with emergency facilities (open 24 hours a day, seven days a week) include: Allgemeines Krankenhaus, Währinger Gürtel (y 01 40400, www.akhwien. at); Unfallkrankenhaus Meidling, Kundratstrasse 37 (y 01 601 50–0, www.ukhmeidling.at); and Lorenz Böhler Unfallkrankenhaus, Donaueschingenstrasse 13 (y 01 33110, www.ukhboehler.at). A EMERGENCIES

dentists’ emergency service operates after hours and at weekends on y 01 512 2078. See also ‘Pharmacies’. EVENT LISTINGS The main listings magazine (German only) for what’s on in the city is Falter (www.falter.at), published every Wednesday and available from kiosks and newsagents. The Tourist Office produces a monthly events listing covering theater, concerts, film festivals, spectator sports, exhibitions, and more, as well as a seasonal magazine, Vienna Scene. Look out also for the free monthly magazine Enjoy Vienna available in bars and hotels, and the Friday edition of the free newspaper Heute (in German) for further listings. Online, www.hauptstadt.at is a useful site to source information on nightlife, pop concerts, and cinema venues.

Vienna is a surprisingly child-friendly city, with lots of attractions that appeal to youngsters. Look for the items tagged with a icon in this book. There’s even a tourist office, WienXtraKinderinfo, devoted solely to kids (see Tourist Offices). FAMILY TRAVEL

=

The best gay and lesbian resources in Vienna are the Tourist Board’s Queer Guide, and the Gay Guide, available in various bars and at the Tourist Info Wien office in Albertinaplatz. The Rosa Lila Villa, Linke Wienzeile 102 (www.villa.at) offers information, advice, and counseling in its Lesbian Center (y 01 586 8150) and the Gay Men’s Center (y 01 585 4343).

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS

Most shops and all banks and services are closed on public holidays, which are as follows: New Year’s Day, Epiphany (Jan 6), Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Labor Day (May 1), Ascension Day (6th Thurs after Easter), Whit Monday (6th Mon after Easter), Corpus Christi, HOLIDAYS

Fast Facts

croissant with butter, jam and sometimes a selection of cold cuts and cheeses. If your hotel doesn’t include breakfast in its rates, it’s the perfect excuse to indulge at one of the city’s legendary coffee houses. Most cafés and coffee houses open from 7am to midnight, although some stay open later. Restaurants generally open 11am–3.30pm and 6pm–midnight. Some remain open all day. Dress codes are relaxed, except in a handful of more upmarket restaurants. Many restaurants require table reservations in advance, but they are generally not necessary in cafés, Heurigen, and less formal eateries. Ask your concierge to help with any arrangements on arrival in Vienna. Young children are welcome in most venues, with the exception of the more exclusive restaurants.

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Assumption Day (Aug 15), National Holiday (Oct 26), All Saints Day (Nov 1), Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8), Christmas Day, and Stefanitag (Dec 26). It is important to take out adequate personal travel insurance for your trip, covering medical expenses, theft, loss, repatriation, personal liability, and cancellation. Private medical insurance is essential for all non-EU visitors. However, thanks to a reciprocal agreement, citizens of the UK and other EU countries are entitled to reducedprice medical treatment on presentation of a valid European Health Insurance Card (EHIC—apply online at www.dh.gov.uk/travellers). Dental care, except emergency accident treatment, is not available free of charge and should also be covered by private medical insurance.

INSURANCE

Most Viennese hotels have Internet access in guest rooms, or an Internet terminal in the lobby. Many cafés offer the opportunity to log on to the Internet via WiFi with your own wireless-enabled laptop. Internet cafés are scattered around town. A popular one is the Netcafé at the Künstlerhaus Kino, Karlsplatz 5 (corner of Academiestrasse, www.k-haus/at/kino/netcafe, daily 11am–9pm,
4 for 1 hour).

INTERNET CAFÉS

LOST PROPERTY Inform all credit-card

companies immediately if your credit cards are stolen, and file a report at the local police station for any missing items if you intend to make an insurance claim. For help in finding lost property on a train, phone Südbahnhof (y 01 580 022 222); or on a tram or bus, phone the General Information Office (y 01 790 943 500). Otherwise, try the central lost property office, Zentrales Fundamt, Bastiengasse 36-38 (y 01 4000 8091; Mon–Fri 8am–3.30pm (until 5.30pm Thurs)).

MAIL & POSTAGE Austria’s postal service is generally swift and reliable. Stamps (Briefmarken) can be bought at post offices, tobacconists, and some newspaper kiosks. Letter-boxes are plentiful and easy to find—they’re bright yellow. Most post offices open Mon–Fri 8am–noon, 2pm–6pm. Some also open Sat 8am–noon. The post offices at Südbahnhof, Westbahnhof, and Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof open for longer hours (including Saturday and Sunday mornings), and the main post office at Fleischmarkt 19 (y 0577 677 1010, www.post.at) is open daily 6am–10pm. MONEY Austria’s currency is the euro, with notes issued in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 euros, and coins of 1 and 2 euros and also 1, 2, 10, 20, and 50 cents. Credit cards are widely used in Vienna (especially Visa and MasterCard) but it is a good idea to carry cash to use in bars and cafés, and to check the payment methods available before you order a meal or run up a bar bill. If you do get caught short, there are numerous bureaux de change around town, and most international banks’ cash cards can be used to obtain cash in local currency from some ATMs, although the commission charged can be high. For up-to-date currency conversion information, go to www. xe.com. ORIENTATION TOURS See ‘Tours’.

In most streets within the Gürtel, you need a 30-, 60- or 90minute Parkschein (parking ticket), available from tobacconists, banks, train stations, and Wiener Linien ticket offices. To validate it, cross out the appropriate time, date, and year and leave it visible on the dashboard. Parking restrictions are in force in the Innere Stadt from 9am–7pm (maximum 90min). If your car gets clamped for illegal parking,

PARKING

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PASSES The Vienna Card (available from hotels and tourist offices,
18.50) provides 72 hours of unlimited travel by subway, bus, or tram plus 190 discounts at a variety of museums, attractions, cafés, restaurants, shops, and Heurigen. The card is available from the Tourist Info Wien office in Albertinaplatz, hotels, and all ticket offices of the Vienna Transport Authority. (Highschool kids and students are already eligible for discounts at various Viennese sights with their international student card and so may not benefit from a Vienna Card.) If you are planning to visit the Imperial Apartments, the Sisi Museum and silver collection at the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace and the Imperial furniture collection (20min from Schönbrunn at Andreasgasse 7, y 01 524 3357–0, www.hofmobiliendepot.at, Tues– Sun 10am–6pm), you should invest in a Sisi Ticket (
22.50 adults,
11.50 kids aged 6–18,
46.90 family, valid for one year), making a saving of around 20% on the normal admission prices. It also means you don’t have to wait if there are queues for any of the attractions— a big bonus during peak season. PASSPORTS Citizens of the USA, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand need only a valid passport to enter Austria. Take a photocopy of your passport’s information page and keep it somewhere separate. This will speed up the replacement process at your embassy if it gets lost or stolen. While in Vienna, keep your passport and other valuables in your room/hotel safe.

Pharmacies (Apotheken) are recognizable by their red serpentine ‘A’. Most open Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 8am–noon. After hours, there is a rota system. Either dial 1550 for information, or check at a local pharmacy—they all display a sign indicating the nearest one open. PHARMACIES

SAFETY Crime rates are low in Vienna although it is advisable to take sensible precautions against petty crime: don’t carry excess cash, and use the hotel safe for valuable goods; don’t leave anything visible in a parked car; beware of pickpockets in crowded places (especially in the Naschmarkt); and stick to well-lit, populated areas by night. In particular, steer clear of parks after dusk (especially the Prater and the Stadtpark) and Karlsplatz underground station at night, which is a notorious drug-dealing hotspot. If you need a police station, ask for a Polizeiwachzimmer. For emergency police assistance, dial 133. SENIOR TRAVELERS Discounts for seniors are available (with proof of age) for most museums, public transport, and entertainment. SHOPPING

See ‘Business Hours’.

The Viennese are big smokers and unlike many countries in the EU, at the time of publication the ban on smoking in public places has not yet come into force. There are some no-smoking (Nichtraucher) restaurants, and many others have no-smoking areas. Smoking is banned in all Austrian airports and railway stations. SMOKING

The Austrians are football-crazy, especially having hosted the 2008 European Championships, with the national football league running from the fall until early spring. Two of the nation’s top teams—Austria Memphis and Rapid—are based in Vienna. The

SPECTATOR SPORTS

Fast Facts

the fine for releasing it is
350. Car parks are marked with a blue P and charge around
2–
5 per hour. You’ll find further information on parking in the Transportation section of www.wien.gv.at.

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166

main stadium is Ernst-Happel Stadium in the Prater, which seats nearly 50,000 (Meiereistrasse 7, y 01 728 0854. U-Bahn 2 (Stadion)). Also in the Prater is the Freudenau race course (Rennbahnstrasse 65, y 01 728 9531, www. freudenau.at, races Mar–Nov) and Krieau trotting arena (Nordportalstrasse 274, y 01 728 0046, www.kreiau.at, races Sept–June). The Stadthalle (Vogelweidplatz 14, y 01 981 000. www.stadthalle. com, U-Bahn 6 (Burggasse/ Stadthalle)) hosts a variety of sporting events (and pop concerts), including ice hockey (Sept–Feb). Visitors from non-EU countries are entitled to reclaim VAT (20%, called Mehrwertsteuer), which is included in the price of any purchase over
75. To claim, a taxrefund cheque must be filled out by the shop at the time of purchase (remember to take your passport). This is then stamped by border officials when you leave the EU. The refund is most easily claimed when leaving the country—there’s a counter for instant refunds at Vienna International Airport, also one at Westbahnhof, Südbahnhof, and at major border crossings. TAXES

TAXIS

See ‘By Taxi’, p 161.

Austria’s country code is y 0043, Vienna’s is y 01. When calling a Viennese number from within the city, the local code is not required. Most public phone booths accept phone cards (available from post offices and newsagents) and coins. A minimum of
0.20 is needed to make a local call. Some post offices have phone booths where national and international calls can be made. Cheap rate calling is Mon–Fri 6pm–8am and at weekends. Avoid making international calls from your hotel as hefty surcharges are often added. For directory enquiries in Austria and TELEPHONES

the EU, dial 118877; for international directory enquiries, dial 0900 118877. International country codes for ringing home are as follows: USA and Canada y 001; UK y 0044; Irish Republic y 00353; Australia y 0061; and New Zealand y 0064. TICKETS

See ‘How to Get Tickets’,

p 138. TIPPING There are no fixed rules for tipping, but a tip of around 10% is expected in taxis, and
1 per bag is normal for porters in hotels. Restaurant prices usually include a cover charge. If not, this has to be stated on the menu. It is customary to give a 10% tip or to round up the bill. Announce the total sum (including tip) to the waiter when they take your money. They will normally then pocket the tip and return your change. TOILETS There are over 300 public toilets throughout the city (marked WC), mostly open 9am–7pm daily, although some are open 24 hours a day. Those with attendants cost around
0.50. At some stage, be sure to visit the beautiful Jugendstil toilets on Graben, which still retain their original 1905 green railings, lanterns marked Damen (for women) and Herren (for men), and brass washstands.

Vienna’s main tourist office, Tourist-Info Wien, Albertinaplatz/corner of Maysedergasse (y 01 24555, www.vienna. info, daily 9am–7pm) provides maps, pamphlets, hotel bookings, souvenirs, and a ticket booking service. There’s also a small tourist information office, Tourist-Info Wien Airport, in the airport Arrivals hall (y 01 7007 32875, daily 8.30am–9pm). WienXtra Jugendinfo, Babenbergerstrasse 1 (y 01 1799, www.jugendinfo wien.at, Mon–Sat noon–7pm) is an information service, aimed at TOURIST OFFICES

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TOURIST TRAPS Be careful not to be taken in by the sales pitches of the smooth-talking ticket touts dressed as Mozart look-alikes, who hang around the main tourist attractions waiting to pounce on unsuspecting visitors. The concert packages they offer tend to be touristy and overpriced. A couple of the more reputable establishments are listed in the Arts & Entertainment chapter, see p 133. TOURS Vienna has several tour companies. Cityrama, Börsegasse 1 (y 01 534 13–0, www.cityrama.at) offers tours lasting from one hour (in central Vienna) and longer excursions to the Vienna Woods and nearby cities, including Salzburg, Prague, and Bratislava. An excellent way to explore the city is on the Vienna Line buses, Graf Starhemberggasse 25 (y 01 712 4683-0, www.viennasightseeingtours.com). Buy a ticket for one hour (
13), 2 hours (
16), or 24 hours (
20) then hop on and off at the main sights as many times as you want between 10am and 8pm (buses run every 15–20 minutes, June–Aug, less frequently out of season). For something a little different, I recommend

a nostalgic hour-long tour in a vintage open-top coach with Oldtimer Bus Tours, Siedengasse 32 (y 01 503 744 312, www.oldtimertours.at, departing Heldenplatz daily 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 4pm, adults
18, kids
10) or, for the energetic, a 3-hour City Segway Tour (y 01 729 7234, www.citySegwayTours. com, departing 2pm daily from the Staatsoper;
70 per person, must be at least 12 years old). Pedal Power, Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (y 01 729 7234, www.pedalpower.at) offers two guided bike tours, each 2 1/2–3 hours long, taking in many of city’s historic sights. For boat tours, see ‘Danube Boat Trips’, p 99. TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Vienna caters reasonably well for travelers with disabilities (Behinderte), although some of the older museums and attractions have limited facilities. Most museums have ramps, and many U-Bahn stations have wheelchair lifts, but buses and older trams don’t. The newer trams have doors at ground level. A plan of U-Bahn stations for sight-impaired visitors is available from Wiener Linien (see p 158). The tourist office website (www.vienna.info) has excellent advice and detailed information on suitable hotels, restaurants, and attractions with disabled facilities, together with parking information, toilet locations, and much more in their ‘Specials’ section. VAT

See ‘Taxes’ above.

WEATHER

See ‘Climate’.

Vienna: A Brief History First Indo-Germanic tribes settle in the region.

c2000BC

Celtic tribes create a settlement called Vindebona at Hoher Markt.

c400BC

Roman legions occupy Vindebona. A further settlement (in today’s Belvedere district) becomes a Roman garrison town.

15BC

Vienna: A Brief History

visitors aged 14–26. It also sells reduced-rate tickets for various events and pop concerts. WienXtraKinderinfo, MuseumsQuartier (y 01 400 084 400, www.kinder infowien.at) is devoted solely to kids, with a small indoor playground and stacks of information on kids’ activities.

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168

The Romans introduce viticulture to the region.

c280

Vindebona is destroyed by Huns, leading to a period of invasions by Goths, Avars, and Slav tribes.

433

Charlemagne deposes the Duke of Bavaria and founds the Carolingian Empire. First mention (in the Salzburg Annals) of the name ‘Wenia’ on the borders of the Eastern March or Ostmark (later renamed Ostarrichi).

8TH CENTURY

The Babenbergs become margraves of the Eastern March.

976

Vienna receives its town charter; construction of the Stephansdom begins.

1137

1200

The city walls are erected.

The last of the Babenbergs, Duke Frederick II, is killed. Control of Austria passes to King Otokar of Bohemia.

1246

Otokar is killed in the Battle of the Marchfeld against King Rudolf I von Habsburg. This marks the start of the Habsburg dynasty (which rules until 1918).

1278

The Habsburg court becomes a cultural hub of central Europe, attracting numerous musicians and minstrels.

LATE MIDDLE AGES

1365

Vienna University is founded.

The Plague almost wipes out the entire population of Vienna.

1349

A period of political and economic instability follows the massacre and expulsion of the Jews in 1421. After the Hussite Wars, Vienna temporarily falls under Hungarian rule.

15TH CENTURY

Albrecht V is elected Holy Roman Emperor and Vienna becomes the seat of the Empire.

1438

1469

Vienna is made a bishopric

and the Stephansdom becomes a cathedral. 1493 Emperor Maximilian I drives

the Hungarians out of Austria. Maximilian I founds the Vienna Boys’ Choir.

1498

Ferdinand I becomes sovereign of Lower Austria and abolishes Vienna’s special privileges. The citizens revolt and Ferdinand responds with violent suppression. Following the King of Hungary’s death, Ferdinand I lays claim to the Hungarian crown and attempts to expand his authority throughout the region. In reaction, the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire declares war on the Habsburgs.

1521

The first Turkish siege takes place. After the withdrawal of the Turks, Vienna is transformed into a fortress to protect it from continued Ottoman threat.

1529

Following the Reformation, Protestant Maximilian II allows religious freedom. At this time, 8% of the city is Protestant.

1571

A Bohemian rebellion starts the Thirty Years’ War. In 1623 the Counter-Reformation begins.

1618–48

A further plague claims 30,000 lives.

1629

The Turks invade again, bringing with them a lasting ‘gift’—bags of coffee.

1638

Prince Eugène of Savoy leads the Imperial Army to victory against the Turks and the French, and reasserts the Habsburg Empire’s status as a major power. Vienna becomes an international center of arts and music.

1683–1736

Maria Theresa—the greatest of all Habsburg rulers—ascends the throne. Her 40-year reign ushers in a golden era.

1740

169

Music flourishes in Vienna. Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, and Schubert all live and work in the city.

1750–1830

The reign of Franz II begins. He is later appointed Holy Roman Emperor.

1792

Napoleon lays siege to Vienna; Franz II gives up the title of Holy Roman Emperor in 1806, becoming Franz I of Austria.

1805

Napoleon invades again and takes up residence in the Schönbrunn Palace. In 1810 he marries Franz I’s daughter, Archduchess Marie Louise.

1809

The onset of industrialization leads to a rapid increase in Vienna’s population.

EARLY 19TH CENTURY

Johann Strauss forms his first waltz orchestra, and his two sons, Johann and Josef, follow in his footsteps.

1825

The citizens rise up against political repression. Ferdinand I abdicates in favor of his nephew, Franz Josef.

1848

Franz Josef transforms Vienna into a magnificent modern metropolis. The Ringstrasse becomes a grand boulevard with elegant public buildings.

1848–1916

Franz Josef becomes the dual monarch of Austria-Hungary.

1867

The State Opera House opens with a performance of Mozart’s Don Giovanni on May 25.

1869

The association of artists known as the ‘Secession’ is founded, led by Gustav Klimt.

1897

New mass political parties start to emerge, including German Nationalism and the Social Democrats. Anti-Semite Karl Lueger, leader of the Christian Socialist Party, becomes Vienna’s mayor.

1897–1910

The Wiener Werkstätte is founded.

1903

Archduke Franz Ferdinand is assassinated in Sarajevo, starting the chain-reaction slide towards World War I.

1914

World War I ends, the dual monarchy collapses and Austria becomes a republic on November 12.

1918

Socialism prevails in socalled ‘Red Vienna’.

1920–34

Anschluss: Hitler annexes his home country, and Austria becomes his ‘Ostmark’ in the Third German Reich.

1938

World War II ends. The Russians occupy Vienna on April 11, followed by the other Allies.

1945

A treaty signed in the Belvedere Palace marks the end of the Allied occupation and guarantees Austria’s sovereignty and neutrality.

1955

With the building of the International Center, Vienna becomes the third United Nations city, after New York and Geneva.

1979

Austria joins the EU and the Eurozone.

1995

Austria assumes presidency of the EU.

2006

Vienna hosts the 2008 European Football Championships.

2008

Vienna celebrates the 200th anniversary of Haydn’s death.

2009

Vienna: A Brief History

Vienna develops from a court-based feudal society into the dazzling bourgeois capital of a great European power. The death penalty is abolished and there is greater tolerance towards Jews and non-Catholic Christians. Majestic palaces, churches, summer residences, and parks spring up throughout the city.

18TH CENTURY

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Vienna’s Art & Architecture

F

ew cities can match Vienna’s architectural riches. Indeed, the entire city center has been declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site due to the remarkable diversity and quality of its buildings. Early Architecture Little survives of Vienna’s earliest architecture except some Roman remains at Michaelerplatz and in the Römermuseum in Hoher Markt. Few buildings retain any Romanesque features either. The rounded arches, thick walls, and small windows typical of this period were mostly replaced by the medieval Gothic style in the 13th century. The finest example is the city’s oldest church—the Ruprechtskirche.

Gothic: 1150–1550 The Gothic style imported from France enabled builders to make walls thinner and taller, with large windows to let in more natural light. Other Gothic features included pointed arches, delicate stonework tracery, flying buttresses (freestanding exterior pillars to support the building), and elaborately constructed ceilings, using the newly acquired techniques of cross-vaulting and fan-vaulting. The intricate filigree work of the Maria am Gestade Church and the soaring proportions of the magnificent Stephansdom are both textbook examples of the Gothic style.

Renaissance: 1550–1650 The Renaissance style was first developed in Florence, Italy, as a conscious revival of certain aspects of ancient Greek and Roman design, with an emphasis on geometry and regularity, enlivened by decoration. Symmetry, proportion, and the use of a classical ‘vocabulary’ of

columns, lintels, arches, domes, and niches are the main characteristics of this architectural style. Surprisingly few Renaissance buildings survive in Vienna. The city was frequently under attack during this period, so precious resources of building materials were used to strengthen the fortifications. Fine examples include the Stallburg, the Schweizertor, and the striking gabled façade of the Franziskanerkirche (the interior is a mishmash of Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque styles).

Baroque & Rococo: 1650–1800 Vienna is best known for the splendor of its baroque palaces and churches. This was Vienna’s golden age, and baroque became the favored style of the Habsburgs who, finally freed from the financial burdens of repeated wars and invasions, embarked on an unprecedented building spree. Originating in Italy, the baroque style modified the classical ground-rules of Renaissance architecture, using them in a more theatrical way, which appealed to the emotions. Running in tandem with the Counter-Reformation, the baroque style also clearly underlined the wealth and power of the Catholic Church and the Habsburg rulers. Key features of baroque include classical forms enhanced by grand curving lines, exuberant ornamentation and carving (often in gilt, stucco, or marble), monumental ceiling frescoes, a

171

Biedermeier: 1815–1850 A new bourgeois culture known as Viennese ‘Biedermeier’ emerged after the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna in 1815. This left its mark not only on architecture, but also on interior design and the visual arts, paving the way for the later styles known as Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and the Secession. The main characteristics of the Biedermeier style are simplicity, elegance, and functionality of design. Splendid examples of Viennese Biedermeier architecture include the Stadttempel and the Dreimäderlhaus.

Historicism (Neoclassicism): 1800–1880 At the peak of his power following the 1848 Revolution, the young

Emperor Franz Josef I set about upstaging Napoleon III’s radical makeover of Paris. He invited the most famous architects in Europe to create a magnificent new boulevard right round the heart of Vienna’s historic city center, or Innere Stadt. Known as the Ringstrasse, it became a showcase for bombastic imperial buildings, which lined it on either side. The fashionable style at that time was a version of neoclassicism known in Vienna as ‘Historicism’. This was a reaction against the fussy complexities of baroque and rococo architecture, and a reversion to the purer classicism of yesteryear. Historicism was characterized by clean, elegant lines, balance and symmetry, and the use of neoclassical motifs and columns. Typical examples of Viennese Historicism on the Ringstrasse include the Burgtheater, the Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM) and the Naturalhistorisches Museum (NHM) epitomizing the Italian neo-Renaissance style. The Parliament Building evokes a Greek interpretation of Historicism with its columns and statues of Greek philosophers. Also along the Ringstrasse are several fine neoGothic edifices, including the Votivkirche and Neues Rathaus.

Jugendstil & Secession: 1880–1920 The collision of tradition and modernity in Vienna around 1900 created an unusually fertile climate for the arts. Architects felt constrained by neoclassicism, although they found the clean lines and elegant styles appealing. As the Art Nouveau movement emerged in other parts of Europe, Vienna spawned its own distinctive version, known as Jugendstil (Young Style). Classic hallmarks of the style include simple, functional lines; organic, flowing motifs (often flowers, flames, waves

Vienna’s Art & Architecture

dramatic use of color, light and shade, plus illusory effects like trompe l’oeil. The rococo style developed in the early 18th century as an even more ornate, blousey version of baroque, involving vast quantities of gilded stucco and brightly colored frescoes. This was the favorite style of the Empress Maria Theresa, hence Austrian rococo is sometimes referred to as ‘late-baroque Theresian style’. Karlskirche is the crown jewel of Vienna’s baroque treasures, designed by the Austrian architect Fischer von Erlach, who also built the Schönbrunn Palace and the Prunksaal—Austria’s finest example of secular baroque—in the Nationalbibliothek. The Belvedere Palace, Schwarzenberg Palace, and St. Peter’s Church—all impressive baroque edifices—were created by his successor, Lukas von Hildebrandt. To see the finest rococo interiors in the city, visit the Schönbrunn Palace and the Academy of Sciences.

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or flowing hair); extensive use of iron, stucco, and stained glass. In 1897, an iconoclastic splintergroup called the Secession was formed, led by Klimt, Wagner, Olbrich, and Hoffman. This uniquely Viennese style stripped away some of the more decorative aspects of Jugendstil, focusing more on functionalism and geometry. The best examples of the style in Vienna include the iconic Secession Building, Wagner’s Pavilions, the Postsparkasse, Majolika Haus, and Loos’ American Bar.

Modern Architecture: 1970– The post-war years marked a lean architectural period in Vienna as Austria struggled to cope with the ignominy of military defeat and economic recession. However, during

the early 1970s and 80s a new generation of architects emerged to create some highly imaginative structures. Pre-eminent among them was the eccentric genius, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, whose multicolored KunstHausWien, Hundertwasserhaus, and Fernwärme incinerator brighten the modern cityscape. Hundertwasser died at the turn of the millennium, but this creative trend has continued into the 21st century. No single style predominates, but the use of glass and steel is widespread. The innovative Gasometer development and Hans Hollein’s hugely controversial Haas Haus, right at the heart of the UNESCO-protected Innere Stadt (city center), are noteworthy examples of the quirky modern style.

Useful Words & Phrases ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

Good day How are you? very well thank you you’re welcome goodbye please yes/no excuse me/sorry Where is/are . . . ? left/right straight on I would like... Do you have a . . . ? How much is it? When? What? yesterday today tomorrow good/bad better more/less Do you speak English?

Guten Tag Wie geht es Ihnen? Sehr gut Danke Bitte sehr Auf Wiedersehen Bitte Ja/Nein Entschuldigung Wo is/sind . . . ? links/rechts geradeaus Ich hätte gerne... Haben Sie ein . . . ? Wie viel kostet es? Wann? Was? Gestern Heute Morgen gut/schlecht besser mehr/weniger Sprechen Sie Englisch?

goo-ten tag vee gait es ee-nen zair goot dan-ke bi-te zair owf vee-der-zain bi-te yah/niyn ent-shool-di-gung Voh ist/zint links/rekhts ge-raa-de-ows Ick he-te ger-ne Hah-ben zee eyn Vee feel kos-tet es Van Vas ges-tern hoi-te mor-gen goot/shlekt be-ser mair/vay-niger Shpre-khen zee eng-lish

173 GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

I don’t understand The bill please I’m looking for . . . the station a hotel the market a restaurant a toilet a bank a pharmacy a doctor breakfast lunch dinner coffee and cake The menu please

Ich verstehe nicht die Rechnung bitte Ich suche . . . der Bahnhof ein Hotel der Markt ein Restaurant eine Toilette eine Toilette eine Apotheke ein Arzt Frühstück Mittagessen Abendessen Kaffee und Kuchen die Karte bitte

ich fer-shtaia nikht die rekh-nung bi-te ich zoo-khe dair baan-hof eyn ho-tel dair mahrkt eyn res-tow-ron ey-ne twa-le-te ey-ne bank ey-ne a-po-tay-ke eyn artst froo-shtook mi-taak-essen ar-bend-essen ka-fe unt koo-khen dee kaar-te bi-te

ins zwei rei vier ünf sechs sieben acht neun zehn

intz tsvai drai feer fuenf zeks zee-ben akht noin tsen

Montag Dienstag Mittwoch Donnerstag Freitag Samstag Sonntag

mawn-taag deens-taag mit-vokh do-ners-taag frai-taag zams-taag zon-taag

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Days of the Week Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Useful Words & Phrases

ENGLISH

Index

174

Index

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

A Abbado, Claudio, 13, 48 Academy of Sciences, 171 accessories, 87–88 airports, 159 Akademietheater, 139 Allied Powers, 51 Alpine Gardens, 68 Alsergrund, 70–73 Alte Donau, 100 American Bar, 35, 172 amusement parks, 43, 97–98 Annexation (Anschluss), 48 antique shops, 85 antiquities, Greek and Roman, 19 apartment rentals, 161 archaeology Kunsthistorisches Museum, 19 Michaelerplatz, 28, 170 Naturhistorisches Museum, 59 architecture Baroque, 16, 31, 54, 63, 67–68, 71–73, 106, 170–171 Biedermeier, 72, 78, 171 early, 170 Gothic, 11, 30, 170 historicism (neoclassicism), 58, 171 Jugendstil and Secession, 16–17, 31, 33–35, 41, 171–172 modern, 63, 172 Renaissance, 13, 18, 19, 30, 64, 170 Architekturzentrum Wien, 76 Arcimboldo, Giuseppe, 19 Arnold Schönberg Centre, 38, 39, 48–49 art Art Nouveau, 12, 33–35, 171–172 Arts and Crafts exhibits, 12–13, 34 Biedermeier, 68 Jugendstil and Secession, 171–172 Rococo, 171 shopping, 85 Viennese Actionism, 77–78

art museums and galleries KUNSTHALLE wien, 18 Kunsthistorisches Museum, 18, 19 Leopold Museum, 18, 76 MUMOK Museum, 18 Museum für Angewandte Kunst, 12 MuseumsQuartier Wien, 18 Palais Albertina, 31 Upper Belvedere, 68, 69 Art Nouveau, 12, 33–35, 171–172 Arts and Crafts movement, 12–13, 34, 35 arts and entertainment, 134–140 best bets, 134 cinema, 138, 157 classical music, 38, 39, 137, 138, 157 dance, 138 maps, 135–136 musicals, 138–139 opera, 18, 19, 38, 48, 58, 138–139, 157 theater, 139, 140, 157 tickets, 138 Vienna Boys’ Choir, 30, 137–138, 140, 157 ATMs, 161 Augustinerkeller, 55 Augustinerkirche, 55, 137 Austria Fountain, 71 Aux Gazelles (nightclub), 129

B Babu (nightclub), 132 babysitting, 162 Badeschiff (nightclub), 130 ballet, 138 Ballett der Wiener Staatsoper und Volksoper, 138 banking hours, 162 Baroque architecture, 170–171 Freyung, 71–72 Karlskirche, 16, 54, 67–68 Peterskirche, 63 Prunksaal, 31 Schönbrunn Palace, 106 Servitenkirche, 73 Baroque art, 170–171 Peterskirche, 63 Upper Belvedere, 68 bars, 129–130 beaches, 6, 100 beer cellars, 130

Beethoven, Ludwig van Beethovenplatz, 50–51 Central Cemetery, 41 Dreifaltigkeitskirche, 78 Heiligenstadt, 103 Konzerte im Mozarthaus, 137 9th Symphony, 158 Pasqualati Haus, 37 Secession Building, 17, 33–34 Stephansdom, 11 Beethovenplatz, 50–51 Bellotto, Bernardo, 19 Belvedere, 66–69 Belvedere Gardens, 68 Belvedere Palace, 171 Berg, Alban, 39 Bernstein, Leonard, 13 Biedermeier art and architecture, 68, 72, 78, 171 bike rentals, 101, 162 Blau, Tina, 69 boat rentals, 101 boat tours, 22, 23, 99 Boeckl, Herbert, 69 books in English, 85 Börse (Stock Exchange), 72–73 Botanical Gardens, 68 Brahms, Johannes Central Cemetery, 41 Musikverein, 13 statue, 40 Bruckner, Anton, 95 Brueghel (the Elder), 19 B72 (bar), 132 Burggarten, 18, 38, 58 Burgkapelle, 30 Burgkino, 138 Burgtheater, 60, 139, 171 buses, 159–161 business hours, 162

C Café Willendorf (bar), 131 Callas, Maria, 129 Canova, Antonio, 55 cellphones, 158–159 cemeteries Central Cemetery, 41 St Marx, 12, 41 chamber music, 137 children. See kids, Vienna for Christkindlmärkte, 157 Christmas Day, 158 Christmas markets, 6 Christkindlmärkte, 157 Neues Rathaus, 60 Spittelberg, 78

175

D dance centre, 138 dance clubs, 130–131 Danube boat tours, 99 Danube Canal cruise, 22, 23 Danube Park, 101 Danube River, 6, 100–101 design and interiors, 85–87

dining, 162–163. See also Restaurant Index best bets, 110 fast facts, 162–163 maps, 111–115 disabilities, travelers with, 167 Documentation Centre of Austrian Resistance (DÖW), 47 Donauinsel, 101 Donauinselfest, 101, 157 Donauturm, 101 DÖW (Documentation Centre of Austrian Resistance), 47 Dreimäderlhaus, 72, 171 driving, 160, 161 Dschungel Wien, 139 Dürer, Albrecht, 19, 31 Dvorák, Antonin, 40

E Eden Bar, 131 electricity, 163 embassies, 162 emergencies, 163 entertainment. See arts and entertainment Ephesus Museum, 60 Erlach, Fischer von, 106, 171 event listings, 163

F family travel, 163 farmers markets, 18, 72 Fasching, 158 fashion and accessories, 87–88 Ferdinand II, Emperor, 19 Fernwärme, 24, 172 Ferstel, Heinrich von, 72 festivals, 156–158 film. See cinema flea market, 18 Fledermaus (Johann Strauss), 158 Flex (nightclub), 130 Fluc Café (bar), 131 food shops, specialty, 88–90 Franziskanerkirche, 64, 170 Franz Joseph I, Emperor, 11 Augustinerkirche, 55 Franz-von-AssisiKirche, 23 Hofburg, 10 Imperial Apartments, 107 Loos Haus, 34 Neue Burg, 60 Ringstrasse, 58, 171 Votivkirche, 72

Franz-von-Assisi-Kirche, 23 frescoes Imperial Apartments, 107 Karlskirche, 67–68 Maria Treu Kirche, 78 Neidhart Frescoes, 64 Peterskirche, 63 Freud, Siegmund, 60, 73, 103 Freyung, 71–72 Frühlingsfest, 157 full-day tours, 8–24 one day, 8–13 two days, 14–19 three days, 20–24

G Gänsehäufel, 100 Gastometer, 23, 172 gay and lesbian travelers, 131, 157, 163 German language, 172–173 Gerstl, Richard, 69, 77 ghetto, Jewish, 47 gifts and souvenirs, 91 Gloriette, 108 Gluck, Christoph Willibald, 40 Gothic architecture, 170 Augustinerkirche, 55 Maria am Gestade, 55 neo-Gothic architecture, 72 Stephansdom, 11 Graben, 5, 63 Greek antiquities, 19 Greene, Graham, 50, 51 Grinzing, 102–103 Grüner Veltliner white wines, 103 Gürtel Party Tour, 131–132

H Haas Haus, 63, 172 Habsburg, Maria Christina, 55 Habsburg, Rudolf von, 30 Habsburg dynasty Heldenplatz, 47–48 Hofburg, 10, 11 Imperial Apartments, 107 Kapuzinerkirche, 54 Kunsthistorisches Museum, 18 State Rooms, 31 Hansen, Theophil, 72 Haus der Musik, 41, 43–44 Haydn, Franz Josef, 37, 71, 137 Haydn Tage, 158 Hegele, Max, 41 Heiligenstadt, 103 Heldenplatz, 47–48

Index

churches and synagogues, 49, 52–55 Augustinerkirche, 55, 137 Baroque, 170–171 Burgkapelle, 30 Dreifaltigkeitskirche, 78 Franziskanerkirche, 64 Jesuitenkirche, 64–65 Judenplatz, 47 Jugendstil, 41 Kapuzinerkirche, 54 Karlskirche, 16, 54, 67–68 Maria am Gestade, 55, 170 Maria Treu Kirche, 78 Michaelerkirche, 55 music in, 137 Peterskirche, 63 Ruprechtskirche, 65, 170 St Peter’s Church, 171 Schottenkirche, 71 Servitenkirche, 73 Stadttempel, 49 Stephansdom, 11, 54, 170 Votivkirche, 72 cinema Burgkino, 138 Musikfilmfestival, 157 “The Third Man,” 5, 50–51, 95, 138 classical music, 38, 39, 137–138, 157 climate, 156, 157 coin collections, 19 Collalto Palace, 37 concerts, 157, 158 Musikverein, 6, 13, 41, 137 Orangerie im Schloss Schönbrunn, 106, 107 Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte, 137 Schönbrunn Palace concert season, 157 Schubertiade, 157 consulates, 162 cosmetics, 85 customs, 162

Index

176 Heringschmaus, 158 Hildebrandt, Lukas von, 171 historical attractions, 5, 10, 106 historical museums Ephesus Museum, 60 Jüdisches Museum, 48 Museum of Military History, 69 Römermuseum, 65, 170 Sisi Museum, 29 Wien Museum, 16 historicism (in architecture), 58, 171 history of Vienna, 16, 167–169 Hitler, Adolf, 48 Hofbackstube (Apple Strudel Show), 45 Hofburg, 5, 10, 11. See also Imperial Vienna Hoffman, Josef, 35, 77 Hoher Markt, 65 holidays, 157–158, 163–164 Holocaust, 49 hotels. See Accommodations Index Hundertwasser, Friedensreich, 22–24, 43 Hundertwasserhaus, 22, 24, 172

I Icebar Vienna, 132 ice skating, 158 Imperial Apartments, 29, 106, 107 Imperial Armory, 60 Imperial Silver Collection, 28–29 Imperial Vienna, 26–31 insurance, 164 interior design, 85–87 Internet cafés, 164

J Jazz Fest, 157 Jazzland (nightclub), 131 Jesuitenkirche, 64–65 jewelry, 91 Jewish ghetto, 47 Jewish Vienna, 46–49 Johann Strauss Gasse 4 (house), 40 Josefsplatz, 30–31 Josefstadt, 78 Joseph II, Emperor, 30–31 Judenplatz, 47 Jüdisches Museum, 48 Jugendstil, 12, 77, 171–172

Jugendstil architecture, 31, 35, 41, 171–172 Jugendstil Vienna, 32–35

K Kaiserball, 158 Kammeroper, 138–139 Kapuzinerkirche, 54 Karajan, Herbert von, 13, 48 Karas, Anton, 51 Karl I, Emperor, 107 Karl VI, Emperor, 16, 67–68 Karlskirche, 16, 54, 67–68, 171 Kärtnerstrasse, 5 Kettenbrückengasse 6, 40 KHM. See Kunsthistorisches Museum kids, Vienna for Alte Donau, 100 amusement parks, 43, 97–98 Arcotel Kaiserwasser, 148 Belvedere Gardens, 68 Bristol, 148 Burggarten, 18, 58 Café Cuadro, 116 Café der Provinz, 116 Café Meirerei Volksgarten, 116–117 Danube Canal cruise, 22, 23 Danube Park, 101 Donauinsel (outdoor activities), 101 Dschungel Wien (theater), 139 family travel, 163 Figlmüller (restaurant), 5, 10 Fresh Soup & Salad, 117 Gösser Bierklinik, 118 Gulaschmuseum, 118 Haus der Musik, 41, 43–44 Hofbackstube (Apple Strudel Show), 45 Hotel am Stephansplatz, 150 Hundertwasserhaus, 22 Imperial (hotel), 150 Imperial Apartments and Sisi Museum, 29 Inigo (café), 119 KunstHausWien, 22–24, 43 Kunsthistorisches Museum (café), 117–118

Lassalle (hotel), 151 Lilarum Puppet Theatre, 139 Mozarthaus, 12, 64 MQ cafés, 44, 76 MUmokka (café), 76 Museum of Military History, 69 MuseumsQuartier Wien, 18 Naschmarkt, 17–18, 34, 120 Naturhistorisches Museum, 59 Neues Rathaus (Town Hall), 60 Nossek, 152 playgrounds, 95, 108 Prater (park), 97 Ra’mien (fast food), 120 Reisenbergweg, 103 Riesenrad, 43, 51, 98 The Rooms, 154 Roomz, 152 Schlosspark, 108 Schönbrunn Palace and Park, 45, 106 Schönbrunn Zoo, 108 Schweizerhaus (beer garden), 99 Schweizerhof (Swiss Court), 29–30 Sewers (film tour), 51 shopping for, 90–91 Spanish Riding School, 44 special interest tours for, 42–45 Stadtpark, 95 Starlight Suiten Hotel am Heumarkt, 153 Strand Hotel Alte Donau, 153 Summer Stage, 73 Technisches Museum Wien, 45 TokoRi (restaurant), 121 Zanoni & Zanoni (restaurant), 121 Zeiss Planetarium, 99 ZOOM Kindermuseum, 44, 76 Zu den 2 Lieserl’n (restaurant), 121 Klangbogen, 157 Klimt, Gustav Belvedere Museum, 92 Leopold Museum, 35, 77 Secession Building, 16, 17, 33–34 Upper Belvedere, 68, 69

177

L La Divina (bar), 129 Landsknecht-Treff (bar), 129 Lange Nacht der Museen, 157 Lanner, Joseph, 39 Lehár, Franz, 95 Leopold I, King, 106 Leopold Museum, 18, 34, 76, 77 Leopoldstadt (Jewish district), 49 Lilarum Puppet Theater, 139 Lipizzaner stallions, 4, 10, 44 Lobau National Park, 99 lodging. See also Accommodations Index best bets, 142 maps, 143–147 Loos, Adolf, 34, 35, 77 Loos Haus, 34, 35 lost property, 164 Lower Belvedere, 68 Lutz (bar), 129

M Mahler, Gustav, 48, 103 mail, 164 Majolika Haus, 34, 172 MAK (Museum für Angewandte Kunst), 5, 12–13, 35 Makart, Hans, 95 marathons, 157 Maria am Gestade, 55, 170 Maria Christina, Archduchess, 55 Maria Theresa, Empress, 106, 107, 171 Maria Treu Kirche, 78 markets Christkindlmärkte, 157 Christmas, 6, 60, 78 farmers, 18 flea, 18 Naschmarkt, 5, 17–18, 34

Meinl am Graben, 63 Meinl’s Weinbar, 129 Michaelerkirche, 55 Michaelerplatz, 28, 170 Michelangelo, 31 mineralogical collection, 59 mobilphones, 158–159 modern architecture, 63, 172 Monet, Claude, 69 money, 164 Moser, Koloman, 34, 35, 77 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus Augustinerkirche, 137 Collalto Palace, 37 Konzerte im Mozarthaus, 137 Mozarthaus, 12, 64 Musikverein, 6 Orangerie im Schloss Schönbrunn, 106, 107 Reisenbergweg, 103 St Marx cemetery, 12, 41 Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte, 137 statue, 38 Mozartgasse, 40 Mozarthaus, 12, 64, 137 Mozart Opera, 157 MUMOK (Museum of Modern Art), 18, 76–78 Munch, Edvard, 69 Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK), 5, 12–13, 35 Museum of Military History, 69 Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK), 18, 76–78 museums Architekturzentrum Wien, 76 Ephesus Museum, 60 Haus der Musik, 41, 43–44 Jüdisches Museum, 48 KUNSTHALLE wien, 18, 76 KunstHausWien, 22–24 Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM), 18, 19 Leopold Museum, 18, 34, 76, 77 MUMOK (Museum of Modern Art), 18, 76–78 Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK), 12–13, 35 Museum of Military History, 69

MuseumsQuartier Wien, 18 Naturhistorisches Museum (NHM), 59 Römermuseum, 65, 170 Siegmund Freud Museum, 73 Sisi Museum, 29 Technisches Museum Wien, 45 Third Man Private Collection, 50 Wien Museum, 16 ZOOM Kindermuseum, 44, 76 museum shops, 91–92 MuseumsQuartier, 18, 74–78 music chamber music, 137 in churches and synagogues, 137 classical, 38, 39, 137–138, 157 festivals, 101, 157 Haus der Musik, 41, 43–44 live music, 131–132 maps, 36, 40 musicals, 138–139 opera, 18, 19, 38, 48, 58, 138–139, 157 Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente, 37–38, 60 shops, 92 musicals, 138–139 Musikfilmfestival, 138, 157 Musikverein, 6, 13, 41, 137, 158 Muti, Riccardo, 13

N Napoleon Bonaparte, 55 Naschmarkt, 5, 17–18, 34 National Holiday, 157 National Socialism and Nazis, 47–49 Naturhistorisches Museum (NHM), 59, 171 Neidhart Frescoes, 64 neighborhood walks, 62–78 Belvedere, 66–69 MuseumsQuartier, 74–78 Schottenring and Alsergrund, 70–73 Stephansdom district, 62–65 neoclassicism (art and architecture), 68, 171 neo-Gothic architecture, 72

Index

Kohlmarkt, 5 Kokoschka, Oskar, 33, 35 Konzerte im Mozarthaus, 137 Konzerthaus, 137, 158 Kornhäusel, Joseph, 49 Kristallnacht, 49 KUNSTHALLE wien, 18, 76 KunstHausWien, 22–24, 43, 172 Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM), 18, 19, 171 Kunstlerhaus, 67 Kursalon Wien, 137

Index

178 Neue Burg, 60 Neues Rathaus (Town Hall), 60, 171 Neutrality Act, 157 New Year’s Day concert, 13, 158 New Year’s Eve, 158 NHM (Naturhistorisches Museum), 59, 171 Nicolai, Otto, 41 nightlife, 6, 124–132 bars, 129–130 beer cellars, 130 best bets, 124 dance clubs, 130–131 gay and lesbian, 131 Gürtel Party Tour, 131–132 live music, 131 maps, 125–128 “Night of Glass,” 49 Nüll, Eduard van der, 58

O Olbrich, Joseph Maria, 16 Onyx Bar, 13 open spaces Burggarten, 18, 38, 58 Freyung, 71–72 Hoher Markt, 65 Volksgarten, 31, 131 opera, 18, 19, 38, 48, 58, 138–139, 157 Opera Ball, 38, 158 Oppenheimer, Max, 69 Orangerie im Schloss Schönbrunn, 106, 107 Ottokar, King of Bohemia, 30 Otto Wagner Pavilions, 33 outdoor activities, 94–108 The Danube, 100–101 Grinzing, 102–103 Prater, 96–99 Schönbrunn, 104–108 Stadtpark, 94–95

P Palais Albertina, 31 Palais Ferstel, 71 Palais Harrach, 71 Palais Kinsky, 71 parking, 164–165 parks Burggarten, 18, 38, 58 Danube Park, 101 Prater, 97 Schlosspark, 108 Parliament Building, 60, 171 Pasqualati Haus, 37 passage (nightclub), 130 passes, 165

passports, 165 Peterskirche, 63 pharmacies, 165 phil (bar), 129 Planter’s Club (nightclub), 130–131 playgrounds, 95, 108 Plutzer Bräu (pub), 130 Pop Art, 77 Porgy & Bess (jazz club), 131 portraits, miniature, 19 postage, 164 Postsparkasse, 35, 172 Pozzo, Andrea, 64 Prater, 5, 23, 43, 96–99 Prater funfair, 157 Prunksaal, 31, 171 psychoanalysis, 73 public transport ticket system, 160–161 Pummerin bell, 11

Q Q (bar), 132

R races, trotting, 97, 157 railway stations, 33 Raimund Theatre, 139 rainfall, monthly, 157 Red Room (bar), 129 Reed, Carol, 50 Regenbogen Parade, 157 Reisenbergweg, 103 Rembrandt, 31 Renaissance architecture, 170 Franziskanerkirche, 64 Kunsthistorisches Museum, 18, 19 Musikverein, 13 Schweizertor, 30 Renaissance art, 64, 170 Renaissance musical instruments, 37–38 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste, 69 rentals apartment, 161 bike, 101, 162 boat, 101 Ressel Park, 40 Reuenthal, Neidhart von, 64 rhiz (bar), 132 Riesenrad, 43, 51, 98 Ringstrasse, 5–6, 56–60, 171 Rococo art and architecture, 106, 171 Roman antiquities, 19, 65 Römermuseum, 65, 170 Rottmay, Michael, 63, 67 Rubens, Peter Paul, 31 Ruprechtskirche, 65, 170

S safety, 165 St Marx cemetery, 12, 41 St Nicholas festivities, 157–158 St Peter’s Church, 171 Salieri, Antonio, 107 Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente, 37–38, 60 Schatzkammer (Treasury), 10, 140 Schauspielhaus, 139–140 Schiele, Egon, 33, 34, 69, 77 Schiller, Friedrich, 33–34 Schindler, Emil, 95 Schlosspark, 108 Schönberg, Arnold, 39, 41, 48–49 Schönbrunn, 104–108 Schönbrunner Schlosskonzerte, 137 Schönbrunn Palace and Park, 6, 45, 106, 171 Schönbrunn Palace concert season, 157 Schönbrunn Palace Orchestra, 106 Schönbrunn Zoo, 108 Schottenkirche, 71 Schottenring, 70–73 Schreyvogelgasse 8, 51 Schubert, Franz Augustinerkirche, 137 Central Cemetery, 41 Grinzing, 103 Kettenbrückengasse 6, 40 Konzerte im Mozarthaus, 137 statue, 95 Schubertiade, 157 Schwarzenberg Palace, 171 Schwarzenbergplatz, 48 Schweizerhof (Swiss Court), 29–30 Schweizertor, 30, 170 Secession Building, 16–17, 33–34, 172 Secessionism, 16–17, 33–35, 77, 172 Sektcomptoir (bar), 130 senior travelers, 165 Servitenkirche, 73 sewers (film tour), 50 shopping, 80–92 accessories, 87–88 art and antiques, 85 beauty products, 85 best bets, 80 books and maps, 85 children, 90–91 design and interiors, 85–87

179 Strauss, Johann, II Grinzing, 103 Johann Strauss Gasse, 4, 40 statue, 95 Viennese Waltz, 39 Strauss, Richard, 40, 48 Summer Stage, 73 Swiss Court, 29–30

T Tanzquartier Wien, 138 taxes, 166 taxis, 161 Technisches Museum Wien, 45 Technische Universität, 40 telephones, 166 temperatures, average, 157 theater, 139, 140, 157 Theater an der Wien, 40, 139 Theater in der Josefstadt, 140 theater tickets, 138 Theseus temple, 31 “The Third Man” (film), 5, 50–51, 95, 138 Third Man Private Collection, 50 tipping, 166 toilets, 166 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, 48 tourist offices, 156, 159, 166–167 tourist traps, 167 tours, guided Danube boat trips, 99 Imperial Apartments, 106, 107 Mozarthaus, 12 sightseeing, 167 Staatsoper, 38 Vienna International Centre (VIC), 101 trains, 160–161 trams, 5–6, 161 Trotsky, Leon, 72 trotting races, 97, 157 Twain, Mark, 41

U U-Bahn (underground trains), 6, 160–161 United Nations, 101 UNO City, 101 Upper Belvedere, 33, 68, 69

V Van Gogh, Vincent, 69 Velazquez, Diego, 19

Vermeer, Johannes, 19 VIC (Vienna International Centre), 101 Vienna architecture, 170–172 favorite moments in, 2–6 history of, 167–169 Siege of, 16 Vienna Boys’ Choir, 30, 137–138, 140, 157 Vienna Card, 161, 165 Vienna Ice Dream, 158 Vienna International Airport, 159 Vienna International Centre (VIC), 101 Viennale, 157 Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, 13, 41, 43, 158 Vienna’s English Theatre, 140 Vienna Symphony Orchestra, 137 Vienna Woods, 5 Viennese Actionism, 77–78 Viennese School of Music, 39 Viennese waltz, 39, 137 Vinova wine fair, 157 Vivaldi, Antonio, 40 Volksgarten, 31, 131 Volksoper, 139 Volkstheater, 140 Votivkirche, 171

W Waaggasse 1, 40 Wagenburg, 106 Wagner, Otto, 16, 34, 35 Wagner Apartments, 34 Walde, Alfons, 77 walking around, 160 weather, 157 Webern, Anton von, 39 websites, useful, 158 Weinorgel (wine bar), 130 Weinstadt (wine bar), 132 Welles, Orson, 50 Whitbread, Rachel, 47 Wieden, 40–41 Wiedner Hauptstrasse 7 (house), 40 Wiedner Hauptstrasse 32 (house), 40 Wiener Festwochen, 157 Wiener Prater (amusement park), 97–98 Wiener Sängerknaben, 30, 137–138, 140 Wiener Werkstätte, 12–13, 35, 77 Wien Modern, 157

Index

fashion, 87–88 food and wine, 88–90 gifts and souvenirs, 91 jewelry, 91 maps, 81–84 museum shops, 91, 92 music, 92 snow globes, 91 Sibelius, Jean, 40 Sicardsburg, August Sicard von, 58 Siebenstern Bräuwirtshaus (pub), 130 Siegmund Freud Museum, 73 Silberkammer, 28–29 Silvester (New Year’s Eve party), 158 Sisi, Empress, 5, 10, 11, 55, 107 Sisi Museum, 10, 29 Sisi Ticket, 165 smoking, 165 snow globes, 91 souvenirs, 91 Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule), 4, 10, 44, 157 special events, 156–158 special interest tours, 26–60 churches, 52–55 city of music, 36–41 Imperial Vienna, 26–31 Jewish Vienna, 46–49 Jugendstil Vienna, 32–35 for kids, 42–45 Ringstrasse, 56–60 “The Third Man” in Vienna, 50–51 Spittelberg, 78 sports Prater, 97 spectator, 165–166 Spring Marathon, 157 Staatsoper, 18, 19, 38, 48, 58, 139 Stadtpark, 94–95 Stadttempel, 49, 171 Stalin, Joseph, 72 Stallburg, 30–31, 170 Statuary, 95 Stefanitag (Boxing Day), 158 Stephansdom (cathedral), 11–12, 54, 170 Stephansdom district, 62–65 Sternwarte Urania, 23 Strandbar Herrmann (bar), 130 Strauss, Johann, I Central Cemetery, 41 Viennese Waltz, 39

Index

180 Wien Museum, 16 wine, 5, 89, 90 wine bars, 129, 130, 132 wine fair, Vinova, 157 wine villages, 5, 103 World War II Nazi Germany, 48, 49 post-war period, 50, 51 Schwarzenbergplatz, 48 Staatsoper, 58

Z Zeiss Planetarium, 99 zoo, 108 ZOOM Kindermuseum, 44, 76

Accommodations Index Altstadt, 148 Ambassador, 148 Arcotel Kaiserwasser, 148 Austria Trend Hotel Europa, 148 Benediktushaus, 148 Bristol, 148 Das Triest, 148 Das Tyrol, 149 Deutschmeister, 149 Do & Co, 149 Domizil, 149 Drei Kronen, 149 Falkensteiner Hotel am Schottenfeld, 149 Franz, 149 Graben, 149–150 Hollmann Beletage, 150 Hotel am Stephansplatz, 150 Hotel Bristol, 51 Imperial Hotel, 51, 150 Imperial Riding School, 150 Intercontinental Wien, 150 Kahlenberg, 150–151 Kaiserin Elisabeth, 151 Kärtnerhof, 150 König von Ungarn, 151 Kuchlmasterei, 151 Kugel, 151 Lassalle, 151 Le Méridien, 151 Mailbergerhof, 151–152 Mercure Wien Zentrum, 152 Nossek, 152

Palais Coburg Residenz, 152 Pertschy, 152 Rathaus Wein & Design, 152 Regina, 152 Roomz, 152 Sacher, 153 Sacher Hotel, 51 Schloss Wilhelminenberg, 153 Starlight Suiten Hotel am Heumarkt, 153 Strand Hotel Alte Donau, 153 Style Hotel, 153–154 The Levante Laudon, 154 The Levante Parliament, 154 The Ring, 154 The Rooms, 154 Wombat’s, 154 Zipser, 154 Zur Wiener Staatsoper, 154

Restaurant Index Akakiko, 116 Alte Backstube, 116 Amerlingbeisl, 116 Augustinerkeller, 116 Belvedere Café, 68 Bräunerhof, 116 Café Central, 72 Café Cuadro, 116 Café der Provinz, 116 Café Frauenhuber, 38 Café Korb, 64 Café Landtmann, 60 Café Leopold, 117 Café Meirerei Volksgarten, 116–117 Café Mozart, 51 Café Otto Wagner, 16 Café Sacher, 5, 117 Café Sperl, 117 Cantinetta Antinori, 117 Copa Cagrana, 101 Demel, 28 Ella’s, 47 Fabios, 117 Figlmüller, 5, 10 Fratelli, 117 Fresh Soup & Salad, 117 Gösser Bierklinik, 118 Griechenbeisl, 41 Gulaschmuseum, 118

Hans Maly, 103 Hawelka, 118 Hollmann Salon, 118 Indian Pavilion, 34, 118 Indochine 21, 118–119 Inigo, 119 Kaffee Alt Wien, 119 Kaffeehäuser, 4–5 KunstHausWien Café, 24 Kunsthistorisches Museum, 117–118 La Pasteria, 119 Little Buddha, 119 Lobo y Luna, 119 Lobsterdock, 119 Lusthaus, 97 Martinelli, 119–120 Mayer am Pfarrplatz, 103 Meinl am Graben, 63 Meirerei, 95 Milo, 120 MQ cafés, 44 MQ Daily, 76 MUmokka, 76 Naschmarkt Deli, 34, 120 Oasia, 73 Ofenloch, 120 Osteria Numero Uno, 120 Österreicher, 13 Oswald & Kalb, 120 Palmenhaus, 31 Piranha, 73 Plachutta, 120 Ra’mien, 120 Ribs of Vienna, 120–121 Schweizerhaus (beer garden), 99 Steirerek im Stadtpark, 121 Strandgasthaus Birner, 101 TokoRi, 121 Umar Fisch, 34 Umarfisch, 121 Witwe Bolte, 121 Würstelstand, 65 Zanoni & Zanoni, 121 Zu den 2 Lieserl’n, 121 Zu den 3 Buchteln, 122 Zu Ebener Erde und Erste Stock, 121 Zum Basilisken, 122 Zum Martin Sepp, 103 Zum Roten Elefanten, 122 Zur Goldenen Glocke, 122 Zwölf Apostelkeller, 122

181

Front Matter Credits: i: © Shutterstock; © Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Alamy; © FAN travelstock/Alamy. All images: © Teresa Fisher with the following exceptions: © Arcotel Kaiserwasser: p 149. © Daniela Beranek/Altstradt Vienna: p 148. © Hollmannn Beletage: p 151. © Petr Blaha/Hotel Rathaus – Wein & Design: p 141, p 152. © Radisson SAS Style Hotel: p 154. © Strandhotel: p 153 bottom. © Victoria Schaffer/Hotel Das Triest: p 150. Courtesy of Alamy: p 12 top (© Rob Crandall); p 123 (© allOver Photography); p 131 bottom (© LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH). Courtesy of PCL: p 155 (© Charles Bowman).

Photo Credits

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02928

Europe

v To call Austria from another country: Dial the international access code (US or Canada 011, UK or New Zealand 00, Australia 0011) followed by the country code (43), and then the local number. To make a direct International call from Austria: Dial 00 followed by the country code (US or Canada 1, UK 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), the area code, then the local number.

UK 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

US 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

Europe 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

US 36 38 40 42 44

UK Metric (cm) 91 97 102 107 112

110˚ F 100˚ F 90˚ F

40˚ C

30˚ C

80˚ F 70˚ F

20˚ C

60˚ F 50˚ F

10˚ C

Europe 46 48 50 52 54

UK Metric (Ht cm) 109 122 140 147 152 157

US 4 6 8 10 12 14

To convert......................... multiply by inches to centimeters.................... 2.54 centimeters to inches...................... .39 feet to meters...................................30 meters to feet................................3.28 yards to meters.................................91 meters to yards..............................1.09 miles to kilometers........................1.61 kilometers to miles......................... .62 1 ft = .30 m 1 m = 3.3 ft

1 mile = 1.6 km 1 km = .62 mile

40˚ F 32˚ F

0˚ C

20˚ F 10˚ F 0˚ F

-10˚ C -18˚ C

-10˚ F -20˚ F

-30˚ C

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

32˚ F = 0˚ C

To convert..........................multiply by Ounces to grams......................... 28.35 Grams to ounces.............................035 Pounds to kilograms....................... .45 Kilograms to pounds.....................2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

To convert......................... multiply by Gallons to liters........................ 4.55 .22 Liters to gallons....................... .56 Pints to liters............................ Liters to pints........................... 1.76

20 Self-guided Tours. 47 Maps. One Great Trip. At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see the best of everything—in the smartest, most time-efficient way.

• The best of Vienna in one, two, or three days • Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste • Hundreds of evocative photos • Bulleted maps that show you how to go from place to place • Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets • A tear-resistant foldout map—enclosed in a handy plastic wallet you can also use for tickets and souvenirs

Frommer’s. The best trips start here. Visit us online at Frommers.com Front cover photos, left to right: ©Shutterstock ©Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Alamy ©FAN travelstock/Alamy Back cover photo ©Teresa Fisher

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