Frommer's Portable Bahamas [4 ed.] 0764538772, 9780764538773, 9780764555657

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P O R T A B L E

Bahamas 4th Edition

by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

P O R T A B L E

Bahamas 4th Edition

by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8700. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-3877-2 ISSN 1094-7655 Editor: Amy Lyons Production Editor: Heather Wilcox Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5

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Contents 1

List of Maps

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The Best of The Bahamas

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1 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 2 The Best Honeymoon Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 3 The Best Family Vacations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

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Planning Your Trip to The Bahamas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

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The Islands in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 What Things Cost in The Bahamas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Getting There: Flying to The Bahamas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 For the Cruise-Ship Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Package Deals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Fast Facts: The Bahamas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

New Providence (Nassau/Cable Beach)

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1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Fast Facts: New Providence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Junkanoo Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 5 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .84

6 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 8 New Providence After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99

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Paradise Island 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

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Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . .122 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Paradise Island After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125

Grand Bahama (Freeport/Lucaya)

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1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 Fast Facts: Grand Bahama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 5 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . .158 6 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 8 Grand Bahama After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 Index

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General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178

List of Maps The Bahamas 2 New Providence Island 49 Nassau Accommodations 56 Cable Beach Accommodations & Dining 63 Nassau Dining 72 Paradise Island Accommodations 107

Paradise Island Dining 115 Grand Bahama Island 129 Freeport/Lucaya Accommodations 136 Freeport/Lucaya Dining 146

ABOUT THE AUTHORS Darwin Porter, while still a teenager, began writing about The Bahamas for the Miami Herald and has been a frequent visitor ever since. His writing partner is Ohio-born Danforth Prince, formerly of the Paris bureau of the New York Times, who has co-authored numerous Frommer’s bestsellers with Darwin, including the Caribbean, Bermuda, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and the Virgin Islands. Together, they share their secrets, discoveries, and opinions about The Bahamas with you.

AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Portable Bahamas, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • • • •

Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

1 The Best of The Bahamas elow you’ll find our carefully compiled and opinionated lists of B fabulous beaches, the best hotels for honeymooners and families, and the best restaurants. For more information on choosing the island that best suits your taste and provides the getaway you’re looking for, refer to “The Islands in Brief ” in chapter 2. It’ll give you a complete rundown on the pros and cons of each island in more detail.

1 The Best Beaches • Old Fort Beach (New Providence Island): With pristine white sands and turquoise water, this is the least developed major beach on New Providence Island, near the relatively unpopulated western tip of The Bahamas’s most crowded island. Many of its biggest fans are homeowners from nearby Lyford Cay, whose homes are among the most expensive in The Bahamas. The beach is least crowded on weekdays, and windiest throughout the winter. There’s great water-skiing in summer, when waters are the calmest. See “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 3. • Cable Beach (New Providence Island): The glittering shoreline of Cable Beach has easy access to shops, casinos, restaurants, watersports, and bars. It’s a sandy 6.5km- (4-mile-) long strip, with a great array of facilities and activities. See chapter 3. • Cabbage Beach (Paradise Island): Think Vegas in the tropics. It seems as if most of the sunbathers dozing on the sands here are recovering from the previous evening’s partying, and it’s likely to be crowded near the megahotels, but you can find a bit more solitude on the beach’s isolated northwestern extension (Paradise Beach)—which is accessible only by boat or on foot. Lined with palms, sea grapes, and casuarina trees, the sands are broad and stretch for at least 3km (2 miles). See “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 4.

The Bahamas 0 0

50 mi

N

50 km

WALKER'S CAY STRANGER'S CAY

Freeport 1

Nort

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NORTH BIMINI

GREEN TURTLE CAY GREAT GUANA CAY

Marsh Harbour

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Freeport/Lucaya

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BIMINI ISLANDS Miami

LITTLE ABACO

GRAND BAHAMA

F LO R I D A

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ABACO ISLAND

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GREAT HARBOUR CAY

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ELEUTHERA ISLAND

PARADISE ISLAND

Governor's 4 Nassau Harbour 5 3 NEW PROVIDENCE 7 ISLAND Andros Town HAWKSBILL

8

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STANIEL CAY

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Congo Town

Arthur's Town

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ANDROS ISLAND

Rock Sound

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HARBOUR ISLAND

Ton

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Spanish Wells

BERRY ISLANDS

Oce

GREAT GUANA CAY

EXUMA ISLANDS

an

GREAT EXUMA George Town

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LITTLE EXUMA FLAMINGO CAY JAMAICA CAY

THE BEST BEACHES Old Fort Beach 3 Cable Beach 4 Cabbage Beach 5 Xanadu Bach 1 Tahiti Beach 2 Pink Sands Beach 6 Ten Bay Beach 8 Saddle Cay 7 Stocking Island 9 Cat Island’s Beaches 10

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RAGGED ISLANDS

CAY SANTO DOMINGO

CUBA

Tamp a

300 km

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BAHAMA BAHAMA ISLANDS ISLANDS

A T L A N T I C O C E A N

TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS

CUBA CAYMAN ISLANDS

HAITI

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

JAMAICA C a r i b b e a n

VIRGIN ISLANDS

PUERTO RICO

S e a

A T L A N T I C O C E A N

CAT ISLAND 10 SAN SALVADOR

Cockburn Town Stella Maris

300 mi

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N FLORIDA

RUM CAY TROPIC OF CANCER

LONG ISLAND Deadman's Cay

CROOKED ISLAND ACKLINS ISLAND

MAYAGUANA ISLAND

PINE CAY

NORTH CAICOS MIDDLE CAICOS

PROVIDENCIALES

LITTLE INAGUA

GREAT INAGUA

Grace Bay CAICOS

ISLANDS

EAST CAICOS

GRAND

SOUTH TURK CAICOS ISLAND SALT CAY TURKS

ISLANDS

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CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BAHAMAS

• Xanadu Beach (Grand Bahama Island): Grand Bahama has 97km (60 miles) of sandy shoreline, but Xanadu Beach is most convenient to Freeport’s resort hotels, several of which offer shuttle service to Xanadu. There’s more than a kilometer (1⁄ 2 mile) of white sand and (usually) gentle surf. Don’t expect to have Xanadu to yourself, but if you want more quiet and privacy, try any of the beaches that stretch from Xanadu for many miles in either direction. See “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 5.

2 The Best Honeymoon Resorts • Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino (New Providence Island; & 800/222-7466 or 242/327-6200): If you’re bored with the idea of honeymooning in an isolated village, with just you, your loved one, the moon, and the stars, head to this flashy, high-tech megacomplex, where bright lights and a mind-boggling assortment of diversions will help you while away your time. See p. 66. • Sandals Royal Bahamian Hotel (Cable Beach, New Providence Island; & 800/SANDALS or 242/327-6400): This Jamaican chain of male-female couples-only, all-inclusive hotels is a honeymooners’ favorite. The Bahamas’s branch of the chain is more upscale than many of its Jamaican counterparts, and it offers 27 secluded honeymoon suites with semiprivate plunge pools. Staff members lend their experience and talent to on-site wedding celebrations; Sandals will provide everything from a preacher to flowers, as well as champagne and a cake. It’s more expensive than most Sandals resorts, but you can usually get better rates through a travel agent or a package deal. See p. 65. • Compass Point (New Providence Island; & 800/688-7678 or 242/327-4500): This choice is the charming and personalized statement of record-company impresario Christopher Blackwell; it’s purely for those who shun megaresorts. The accommodations are found in floridly painted huts or cottages, some of which have kitchenettes and some of which are raised on stilts. Completely in harmony with the lovely natural setting, it’s nevertheless state-of-the-art. See p. 68. • Ocean Club (Paradise Island; & 800/321-3000 in the U.S. or 242/363-2501): It’s elegant, low-key, and low-rise, and it feels exclusive. The guests are likely to include many older couples

T H E B E S T F A M I LY V A C A T I O N S

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celebrating honeymoons. With waterfalls, fountains, reflecting pools, and a stone gazebo, the Ocean Club’s formal terraced gardens were inspired by the club’s founder (an heir to the A&P fortune) and are the most impressive in The Bahamas. At the center is a French cloister, with carvings from the 12th century. See p. 106. • Old Bahama Bay (Grand Bahama Island; & 800/572-5711 or 242/350-6500). Perfect for honeymooners seeking a quiet hideaway, this boutique-style hotel has cottages adjacent to a marina. The casinos, entertainment, shopping, and dining of Freeport/Lucaya are 40km (25 miles) away, but here you can sneak away to luxury, solitude, and romance. See p. 144.

3 The Best Family Vacations • Radisson Cable Beach Hotel (Cable Beach, New Providence Island; & 800/333-3333 or 242/327-6000): A family could spend their entire vacation on the grounds of this vast resort. There’s a pool area that features the most lavish artificial waterfall this side of Tahiti; a health club at the nearby Crystal Palace that welcomes both guests and their children; Camp Junkanoo, with supervised play for children 3 through 12; and a long list of in-house activities that includes dancing lessons. See p. 65. • Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino (Paradise Island; & 800/ATLANTIS in the U.S., or 242/363-3000): This is one of the largest hotel complexes in the world, with endless rows of shops and watersports galore. Both children and adults will enjoy the 5.5-hectare (14-acre) sea world with water slides, a lagoon for watersports, white sandy beaches, and underground grottoes plus an underwater viewing tunnel and 240m (800 ft.) of cascading waterfalls. Its children’s menus and innovative, creative children’s programs are the best in The Bahamas and perhaps even in the Caribbean. See p. 105. • The Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino (Grand Bahama Island; & 800/545-1300 or 242/350-7000): Many guests come here just to gamble and work on their tans, but others bring their kids. To divert them, the hotel maintains a pair of playgrounds and a swimming pool inspired by a tropical oasis, and offers children’s platters in some of the restaurants. The architecture features lots of “Aladdin and His Lamp” accessories, such as minarets above a decidedly non-Islamic setting. See p. 135.

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CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BAHAMAS

• Best Western Castaways (Grand Bahama Island; & 242/3526682): Here’s a good choice for families on a budget. The pagoda-capped lobby is set a very short walk from the icecream stands, souvenir shops, and fountains of the International Bazaar. Children under 12 stay free in their parent’s’ room, and the in-house lounge presents limbo and fire-eating shows several evenings a month. The hotel offers a babysitting service and a free shuttle to Xanadu Beach. See p. 138.

2 Planning Your Trip to The Bahamas ou can be in The Bahamas sipping a Goombay Smash after a Y quick 35-minute jet-hop from Miami. And it’s never been easier to take advantage of great package deals that can make these islands a terrific value.

1 The Islands in Brief The Bahamian chain of islands, cays, and reefs stretches from Grand Bahama Island, 121km (75 miles) almost due east of Palm Beach, Florida, to Great Inagua, the southernmost island, which lies about 97km (60 miles) northeast of Cuba and fewer than 161km (100 miles) north of Haiti. The most developed islands for tourism in The Bahamas are New Providence Island, site of Nassau (the capital) and Cable Beach; Paradise Island; and Grand Bahama, home of Freeport and Lucaya. If you’re after glitz, gambling, bustling restaurants, nightclubs, and a beach-party scene, these big three islands are where you’ll want to be. Package deals are easily found here. Set sail (or hop on a short commuter flight) for one of the Out Islands, such as Andros, the Exumas, or the Abacos, and you’ll find fewer crowds—and often lower prices, too. Space doesn’t permit us to cover all these islands in this small guide, so if you are interested, please pick up a copy of Frommer’s Bahamas for complete coverage of all the Bahamian Islands. NEW PROVIDENCE ISLAND (NASSAU/CABLE BEACH) New Providence isn’t the largest of the Bahamian Islands, but it’s the historic heart of the nation, with a strong maritime tradition and the largest population in the country. Home to about 125,000 residents, it offers groves of pines and casuarinas; sandy, flat soil; the closest thing in The Bahamas to urban sprawl; and superb anchorages sheltered from rough seas by the presence of nearby Paradise

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C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO T H E BA H A M A S

Island. New Providence has the country’s busiest airport and is dotted with hundreds of villas owned by foreign investors. Its two major resort areas are Cable Beach and Nassau. The resort area of Cable Beach is a glittering beachfront strip of hotels, restaurants, and casinos; only Paradise Island has been more developed. Its center is the Marriott Resort & Crystal Palace Casino. Often, deciding between Cable Beach and Paradise Island isn’t so much a choice of which island you prefer as a choice of which hotel you prefer. But it’s easy to sample both, since it takes only about 30 minutes to drive between the two. Nassau, the Bahamian capital, isn’t on a great stretch of shoreline and doesn’t have as many first-rate hotels as either Paradise Island or Cable Beach—with the exception of the Bahama Hilton, which has a small private beach. The main advantages of Nassau are colonial charm and price. Its hotels may not be ideally located, but they are relatively inexpensive; some offer very low prices even during the winter high season. You can base yourself here and commute easily to the beaches at Paradise Island or Cable Beach. Some travelers even prefer Nassau because it’s the seat of Bahamian culture and history—not to mention the shopping mecca of The Bahamas. PARADISE ISLAND If high-rise hotels and glittering casinos are what you want, along with some of the best beaches in The Bahamas, there is no better choice than Paradise Island, directly off the coast of Nassau. It has the best food, the best entertainment, terrific beaches, casinos, and the best hotels. Its major drawbacks are that it’s expensive and often overcrowded. Boasting a colorful history, yet a host of unremarkable architecture, Paradise Island remains perhaps the most intensely marketed piece of real estate in the world. The sands and shoals of the elongated and narrow island protect the wharves and piers of Nassau, which rise across a narrow channel only 180m (600 ft.) away. Owners of the 277-hectare (685-acre) island have included brokerage mogul Joseph Lynch (of Merrill Lynch) and Huntington Hartford, heir to the A&P supermarket fortune. More recent investors have included Merv Griffin. The island today is a carefully landscaped residential and commercial complex with good beaches, lots of glitter (some of it tasteful, some of it way too over-the-top), and many diversions. GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND (FREEPORT/LUCAYA) The island’s name derives from the Spanish term gran bajamar (“great shallows”), which refers to the shallow reefs and sandbars that, over

V I S I TO R I N F O R M AT I O N

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the centuries, have destroyed everything from Spanish galleons to English clipper ships on Grand Bahama’s shores. Thanks to the tourist development schemes of U.S. financiers such as Howard Hughes, Grand Bahama boasts a well-developed tourist infrastructure. Casinos, beaches, and restaurants are now plentiful here. Grand Bahama’s Freeport/Lucaya resort area is another popular destination for American tourists, though it has a lot more tacky development than Paradise Island or Cable Beach. The compensation for that is a lower price tag on just about everything. Freeport/Lucaya offers plenty of opportunities for fine dining, entertainment, and gambling. Grand Bahama also offers the best hiking in The Bahamas and has some of the finest sandy beaches. Its golf courses attract players from all over the globe, and the island hosts major tournaments several times a year. You’ll find some of the world’s best diving here, as well as UNEXSO, the internationally famous diving school. Grand Bahama Island is especially popular with families.

2 Visitor Information Travel conditions are ever changing, and you’ll want to marshal other resources as well. The two best sources to try before you leave home are your travel agent and The Bahamas Tourist Office nearest you. The nation’s official tourism office can be located on the Web at www.bahamas.com, or by phone if you dial & 800/ BAHAMAS. There are also walk-in branch offices at the following locations: Chicago: 8600 W. Bryn Mawr Ave., Suite 820, Chicago, IL 60631 (& 773/693-1500) Miami: 1200 S. Pine Island Rd., Suite 750, Plantation, FL 33324 (& 800/224-3681, or 954/236-9292) Los Angeles: 3450 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1204, Los Angeles, CA 90010 (& 800/439-6993) New York: 150 E. 52nd St., New York, NY 10022 (& 212/ 758-2777) Toronto: 121 Bloor St. E., Suite 1101, Toronto, ON M4W 3M5 (& 416/968-2999) United Kingdom: 3 The Billings, Walnut Tree Close, Guildford, Surrey SE1 8XP (& 01483/448900) You may also want to contact the U.S. State Department for background bulletins, which supply up-to-date information on crime, health concerns, import restrictions, and other travel matters.

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C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO T H E BA H A M A S

Write the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402 (& 202/512-1800). A good travel agent can be a source of information. Make sure your agent is a member of the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA). If you get poor service from an ASTA agent, you can write to the ASTA Consumer Affairs Department, 1101 King St., Alexandria, VA 22314 (& 703/739-8739; www.astanet.com).

SEARCHING THE WEB Bahamas websites include: The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism (www.bahamas.com): Official tourism site. Bahamas Tourist Guide (www.interknowledge.com/bahamas): Travelers’ opinions. Bahamas Vacation Guide (www.bahamasvg.com): Service listings.

3 Entry Requirements & Customs ENTRY REQUIREMENTS DOCUMENTS

To enter The Bahamas, citizens of the United States, Britain, and Canada coming in as visitors for a period of less than 8 months need to bring proof of citizenship, such as a passport, a birth certificate with photo ID, or an official photo ID. (We strongly recommend that you bring a passport anyway, since you’re traveling to a foreign country.) Onward or return tickets must be shown to immigration officials in The Bahamas. Citizens of other countries, including Australia, Ireland, and New Zealand, should carry a valid passport. For information on how to get a passport, go to the Fast Facts section of this chapter—the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the “foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. State Department at http:// travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html. The Commonwealth of The Bahamas does not require visas. On entry to The Bahamas, you’ll be given an Immigration Card to complete and sign. The card has a carbon copy that you must keep until departure, at which time it must be turned in. You’ll also have to pay a departure tax before you can exit the country (see “Taxes” under “Fast Facts: The Bahamas,” later in this chapter).

E N T RY R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S TO M S

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CUSTOMS

What You Can Bring into The Bahamas Bahamian Customs allow you to bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 1 pound of tobacco, plus 1 quart of wine and a quart of “spirits” (that is, hard liquor). You can also bring in items classified as “personal effects,” and all the money you wish. What You Can Take Home from The Bahamas Visitors leaving Nassau or Freeport/Lucaya for most U.S. destinations clear U.S. Customs and Immigration before departing The Bahamas. Charter companies can make special arrangements with the Nassau or Freeport flight services and U.S. Customs and Immigration for pre-clearance. No further formalities are required upon arrival in the United States once the pre-clearance has taken place in Nassau or Freeport. Collect receipts for all the purchases you make in The Bahamas. Note: If a merchant suggests giving you a false receipt, misstating the value of the goods, beware—the merchant might be an informer to U.S. Customs. You must also declare all gifts received during your stay abroad. If you purchased an item during an earlier trip abroad, carry proof that you have already paid Customs duty on the item at the time of your previous reentry. To be extra careful, compile a list of expensive carry-on items and ask a U.S. Customs agent to stamp your list at the airport before your departure. Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $600 worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate of 10% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On gifts, the duty-free limit is $100. You cannot bring fresh foodstuffs into the United States; canned or packaged foods, however, are allowed, and you can bring back 1 liter of alcohol. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.customs. gov. (Click on “Traveler Information,” then “Know Before You Go.”) Or contact the U.S. Customs Service, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/287-8867) and request the pamphlet. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.ccra-adrc. gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you’re

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allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, 1 can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under $60 value”). All valuables should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. U.K. citizens returning from a non-EU country have a customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250g of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 or 020/8929-0152) or consult U.K.’s customs website at www.hmce.gov.uk. The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/ 363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au. The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

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4 Money The currency is the Bahamian dollar (B$1), pegged to the U.S. dollar so that they’re always equivalent. (In fact, U.S. dollars are accepted widely throughout The Bahamas.) There is no restriction on bringing foreign currency into The Bahamas. Most large hotels and stores accept traveler’s checks, but you may have trouble using a personal check. It’s a good idea to exchange enough money to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel before you leave home. Change currencies at a local American Express or Thomas Cook office or your bank. If you’re far away from a bank with currency exchange services, American Express offers travelers checks and foreign currency with a $15 fee and additional shipping costs (www.americanexpress.com; & 800/807-6233).

ATMS The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; www.visa. com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you’re on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to What Things Cost in The Bahamas US$/B$

Taxi from airport to Nassau’s center 20.00 Local phone call 25¢ Double room at Graycliff (deluxe) 290.00 Double room at Holiday Inn Junkanoo Beach (moderate) 154.00 Dinner for one at Chez Willie (expensive) 75.00 Dinner at Avery’s Restaurant (inexpensive) 20.00 Bottle of beer in a bar/hotel 2.00–4.50 Rolls of ASA 100 color film, 36 exposures 8.00–10.00 Movie ticket 6.00

UK£

12.50 16p 181.25 96.25 46.90 12.50 1.25–2.80 5.00–6.25 3.75

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Tips Small Change When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that it’s readily accessible and you’ll be less of a target for theft.

find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than $1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks’ ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. Also remember that the interest rate that credit card companies charge for cash advances can be substantially higher than the normal credit purchases rate. On New Providence Island and Paradise Island, there are plenty of ATMs, some three dozen or so, including one at the Nassau International Airport. There are far fewer ATMs on Grand Bahama Island (Freeport/Lucaya), but those that are here are strategically located—including ones at the airport and the casino (of course).

TRAVELER’S CHECKS Traveler’s checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler’s checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen. These days, traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. However, keep in mind that you will likely be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own, so if you’re withdrawing money every day, you might be better off with

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traveler’s checks—provided that you don’t mind showing identification every time you want to cash one. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and for cardholders only $1,000. You’ll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling & 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee. AAA members can obtain checks without a fee at most AAA offices. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call & 800/732-1322 for information. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. Call & 800/223-9920 for a location near you. Foreign currency traveler’s checks are useful if you’re traveling to one country, they’re accepted at locations such as bed & breakfasts where dollar checks may not be, and they minimize the amount of math you have to do at your destination. American Express offers checks in Australian dollars, Canadian dollars, British pounds, euros and Japanese yen. Visa checks come in Australian, Canadian, British and euro versions; MasterCard offers those four plus yen and South African rands. If you choose to carry traveler’s checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, they provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN number. If you’ve forgotten yours, or didn’t even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Your credit company will likely charge a commission (1% or 2%) on every foreign purchase you make, but don’t sweat this small stuff; for most purchases, you’ll still get the best deal with credit cards when

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you factor in things like ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates. In Nassau, Paradise Island, Freeport/Lucaya, and all the big resorts—even some (though certainly not all) of the smaller inns— credit cards are accepted. However, if you intend to patronize small, out-of-the-way establishments, it’s wise to carry sufficient amounts of U.S. cash as a backup.

5 When to Go THE WEATHER The temperature in The Bahamas varies surprisingly little, averaging between 75°F and 85°F (24°C–29°C) in both winter and summer, although it can get chilly in the early morning and at night. The Bahamian winter is usually like a perpetual May, so that’s naturally the high season for North Americans rushing to escape snow and ice in their own hometowns. Summer brings broiling hot sun and humidity. There’s a much greater chance of rain during the summer and fall.

THE HURRICANE SEASON The curse of Bahamian weather, the hurricane season, lasts (officially) from June 1 to November 30. But there is no cause for panic. More tropical cyclones pound the U.S. mainland than The Bahamas. Hurricanes are actually fairly infrequent here, and when one does come, satellite forecasts generally give adequate advance warning so that precautions can be taken. If you’re heading for The Bahamas during the hurricane season, you might phone the nearest branch of the National Weather Service. Look it up under the U.S. Department of Commerce listing. If you want to know how to pack just before you go, check the Weather Channel’s online 5-day forecast at www.weather.com. You can get the same information by calling & 900/WEATHER, though it does cost 95¢ per minute. Average Temperatures & Rainfall (in.) in The Bahamas

Note that these numbers are daily averages, so expect temperatures to climb significantly higher in the noonday sun and to cool off a good deal in the evening. Month

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

Temp. °F

70

70

72

75

77

80

81

82

81

78

74

71

Temp. °C

21

21

22

24

25

27

27

28

27

26

23

22

Rainfall (in.)

1.9

1.6

1.4

1.9

4.8

9.2

6.1

6.3

7.5

8.3

2.3

1.5

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Tips Avoiding Spring Break Throughout March and into mid-April, it’s spring break season in the Caribbean for hell-raising vacationing college and high school students. This season is filled with beach parties, sports events, and musical entertainment, but if the idea of hundreds of partying fraternity kids doesn’t appeal to you, beware. When you make your reservations, ask if your hotel is planning to host any big groups of kids.

THE “SEASON” In The Bahamas, hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period from mid-December to mid-April, when visitors fleeing from cold north winds flock to the islands. Winter is the driest season. So take heed: If you plan to visit during the winter, make reservations at least 2 to 3 months in advance if possible. And bear in mind that, at certain hotels, it’s sometimes impossible to book accommodations for Christmas and the month of February without even more lead time. S AV I N G M O N E Y I N T H E O F F S E A S O N

The Bahamas is a year-round destination. The island’s “off season” runs from late spring to late fall, when tolerable temperatures (see “The Weather,” above) prevail throughout most of the region. Trade winds ensure comfortable days and nights, even in accommodations without air-conditioning. Although the noonday sun may raise temperatures to uncomfortable levels, cool breezes usually make the morning, late afternoon, and evening more pleasant here than in many parts of the U.S. mainland. Dollar for dollar, you’ll spend less money by renting a summer house or fully equipped unit in The Bahamas than you would on Cape Cod, Fire Island, Laguna Beach, or the coast of Maine. The off season—roughly from mid-April to mid-December (rate schedules vary from hotel to hotel)—amounts to a summer sale. In most cases, hotel rates are slashed from 20% to a startling 60%. It’s a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially families who like to go on vacations together. In the chapters ahead, we’ll spell out in dollars the specific amounts hotels charge during the off season.

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6 Travel Insurance TRAVEL INSURANCE AT A GLANCE Buying insurance might make sense because The Bahamas is not necessarily a “safe” destination. Although crimes against individual tourists are rare, your property, if left unprotected, could be stolen. Tour operators, airlines, and cruise ships can all go out of business suddenly, making default insurance a wise move on some Bahamian trips. Trip delay insurance might cover expenses that rise suddenly, as in the event of a hurricane. Check your existing insurance policies and credit-card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age, health, and the type of trip you’re taking. TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowable reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears, though, as many travelers discovered in Oct 2001 after canceling trips because they were wary of flying.) In this unstable world, tripcancellation insurance is a good buy if you’re getting tickets well in advance—who knows what the state of the world, or of your airline, will be in 9 months? Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print—and especially make sure that your airline or cruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. For information, contact one of the following insurers: Access America (& 866/ 807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (& 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (& 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (& 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance. com). MEDICAL INSURANCE Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home—but check, particularly if you’re insured by an HMO. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment—even hospital care—overseas. However, most out-ofcountry hospitals insist you pay your bills up front, then send you a refund after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork.

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Tips Quick I.D. Tie a colorful ribbon or sturdy piece of yarn around your luggage handle, or slap a distinctive sticker on the side of your bag. This makes it less likely that someone else will mistakenly appropriate it. And if your luggage gets lost, it will be easier to find when it does eventually turn up.

In a worst-case scenario, that could include the high cost of an emergency evacuation. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX International (& 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance. com). For general information on services, call the company’s Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at & 800/777-8710. LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE On domestic flights, checked baggage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package or buy Travel Guard’s “Bag Trak” product. Don’t buy insurance at the airport, as it’s usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, as many valuables (including books, money and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free.

7 Health & Safety STAYING HEALTHY Even on the remotest island, you’ll find, if not a hospital, a local medicine man (or woman, in many cases). Many Bahamians are fond of herbal remedies. But you don’t need to rely on these primitive treatments, as most resorts have either hospitals or clinics on site. The major health risk here is not tropical disease, as it is in some Caribbean islands, but rather the bad luck of ingesting a bad piece

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of shellfish, exotic fruit, or too many rum punches. If your body is not accustomed to some of these foods, or they haven’t been cleaned properly, you may suffer diarrhea. If you tend to have digestive problems, drink bottled water and avoid ice, unpasteurized milk, and uncooked food such as fresh salads. However, fresh food served in hotels is usually quite safe to eat. The Bahamas has excellent medical facilities. Physicians and surgeons in private practice are readily available in Nassau, Cable Beach, and Freeport/Lucaya. Medical personnel hold satellite clinics periodically in small settlements, and there are about 35 other clinics, adding up to a total of approximately 50 health facilities throughout the outlying islands. (We’ve listed the names and telephone numbers of specific clinics in the individual island coverage that follows throughout this book.) If intensive or urgent care is required, patients are brought by the Emergency Flight Service to Princess Margaret Hospital (& 242/322-2861) in Nassau. Some of the big resort hotels have in-house physicians or can quickly secure one for you. There is also a government-operated hospital, Rand Memorial (& 242/352-6735), in Freeport, and several government-operated clinics on Grand Bahama Island. Nassau and Freeport/Lucaya also have private hospitals. Dentists are plentiful in Nassau, somewhat less so on Grand Bahama. Even if your interior plumbing is working fine, you face a danger of overexposure to the sun, which can be a real issue in The Bahamas. You must, of course, take the usual precautions you would anywhere against sunburn and sunstroke. Your time in the sun should be wisely limited for the first few days until you become accustomed to the more intense rays of the Bahamian sun. Also bring and use strong UVA/UVB sunblock products.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET SICK AWAY FROM HOME In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead (see the section on insurance above). Bring your insurance ID card with you wherever you travel. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a Medic Alert Identification Tag (& 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through Medic Alert’s 24-hour hotline.

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Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; & 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www. iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in The Bahamas. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (& 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening. You may not get immediate attention, but you won’t pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

STAYING SAFE Travelers to The Bahamas should take the usual precautions they would in traveling to California or Florida. The Bahamas are not as safe as Bermuda, but they are a lot safer than, say, Jamaica. Motorists should never leave valuables in their vehicle, even in a locked trunk. Don’t flash your jewelry, cash, or wallet, or leave valuables lying about unguarded. If your hotel doesn’t have an in-room safe, ask to check valuables at the front desk. All hotels have safety-deposit boxes, except for the small inns and guesthouses. Nassau at night is the most dangerous place to go walking in The Bahamas, especially in the slums away from the port. Paradise Island and Cable Beach are both far safer for walking and exploring after dark. If you wish to visit a place in the center of Nassau at night, it’s best to take a taxi to its door. Freeport/Lucaya is, in general, a safe destination. Even so, it’s best to avoid deserted areas at night, including (unfortunately) romantic walks along deserted beaches. Traveling around the island is also reasonably safe, though there have been occasional reports of carjackings. In general, local police are fair in dealing with foreign travelers, although they rarely retrieve stolen property.

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8 Specialized Travel Resources TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES A disability should not stop anyone from traveling. There are more resources out there than ever before. Because the Bahamian islands are relatively flat, it is fairly easy to get around, even for persons with minor disabilities. You can obtain a free copy of Air Transportation of Handicapped Persons, published by the U.S. Department of Transportation. Write for Free Advisory Circular No. AC12032, Distribution Unit, U.S. Department of Transportation, Publications Division, 3341Q 75 Ave., Landover, MD 20785 (& 301/322-4961; fax 301/386-5394; http://isddc.dot.gov). Only written requests are accepted. Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (& 507/451-5005; fax 507/451-1685; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access Adventures (& 716/889-9096) offers customized itineraries for a variety of travelers with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (& 800/ TINGLES or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include the Moss Rehab Hospital (& 215/456-5995; www.moss resourcenet.org), which provides helpful phone assistance through its Travel Information Service. The Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (& 212/447-7284; fax 212/725-8253; www.sath.org) offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services. Annual membership costs $45 for adults; $30 for seniors and students. The

Tips Finding an Accessible Hotel You can call the Bahamas Association for the Physically Disabled (& 242/322-2393) for information about accessible hotels in The Bahamas. This agency will also send a rented van to the airport to transport you to your hotel for a fee and can provide ramps.

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American Foundation for the Blind (& 800/232-5463; www. afb.org) provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net/ channels/travel/index.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), which costs $14.95 annually, $19.95 outside the U.S; Twin Peaks Press (& 360/694-2462; http://disabilitybookshop.virtualave.net/ blist84.htm), offering travel-related books for travelers with special needs; and Open World Magazine, published by the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (see above; subscription: $18 annually, $35 outside the U.S.). TIPS FOR BRITISH TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London, EC1V 8AF (& 020/ 7250-3222; fax 020/7250-0212; www.radar.org.uk), publishes holiday “fact packs,” three in all, which sell for £2 each or all three for £5.

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS Think twice before choosing The Bahamas. Although many gay people visit or live here, the country has very strict anti-homosexual laws. Relations between homosexuals, even when between consenting adults, are subject to criminal sanctions carrying prison terms. If you would like to make visiting gay beaches, bars, or clubs part of your vacation, consider South Miami Beach, Key West, or Puerto Rico instead. Of course, the big resorts—with one exception—welcome one and all. That exception is the all-inclusive Sandals Royal Bahamian on Cable Beach, which refuses to accept same-sex couples and does so without apology. You must be heterosexual and arrive in a manwoman combination, or else you’ll be forbidden entry. Generally speaking, then, The Bahamas cannot be considered a gay-friendly destination. Single gays or gay couples should travel here with great discretion. If you’re still intent on visiting, the International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; & 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; fax 954/776-3303; www.iglta.com) links travelers up with gayfriendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives. It offers monthly newsletters, marketing mailings, and a

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membership directory that’s updated once a year. Membership is $200 yearly, plus a $100 administration fee for new members. Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (& 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (& 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known, gay-owned and operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (& 800/631-6277 or 510/655-0364; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. The following travel guides are available at most travel bookstores and gay and lesbian bookstores, or you can order them from the bookstore Giovanni’s Room, 1145 Pine St., Philadelphia, PA 19107 (& 215/923-2960; www.giovannisroom.com); Out and About (& 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.outandabout.com), which offers guidebooks and a newsletter 10 times a year packed with solid information on the global gay and lesbian scene; Spartacus International Gay Guide and Odysseus, both good, annual Englishlanguage guidebooks focused on gay men; the Damron guides, with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians; and Gay Travel A to Z: The World of Gay & Lesbian Travel Options at Your Fingertips, by Marianne Ferrari (Ferrari Publications; Box 35575, Phoenix, AZ 85069), a good gay and lesbian guidebook series.

SENIOR TRAVEL The senior citizen will find few specific discounts in The Bahamas. Usually, the standard adult rate applies to all ages more than 21 years of age. The careful, frugal travel shopper, however, might find some deals if arrangements are made before you go. Members of AARP (formerly the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 10049 (& 800/424-3410 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine (formerly Modern Maturity magazine) and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over the age of 50 can join. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (& 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4

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weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (& 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers age 50 and older. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (published by Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (& 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; www.gct.com); The 50+ Traveler’s Guidebook (from St. Martin’s Press); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures that You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (from McGraw-Hill).

FAMILY TRAVEL The Bahamas is one of the top family-vacation destinations in North America. The smallest toddlers can spend blissful hours on sandy beaches and in the shallow seawater or in swimming pools constructed with them in mind. There’s no end to the fascinating pursuits offered for older children, ranging from boat rides to shell collecting to horseback riding, hiking, or even dancing. Some children are old enough to learn to snorkel and to explore an underwater wonderland. Some resorts will even teach kids to swim or windsurf. Remember that for children and teens age 15 or under, a passport is valid for only 5 years, costing $40, whereas for those 16 and up a passport is valid for 10 years, costing $60. Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753; www.learn.unh.edu/family hostel) takes the whole family, including kids ages 8 to 15, on moderately priced domestic and international learning vacations. Lectures, field trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team of academics. Tips Entertaining Your Kids Many of the island’s resorts realize that Mom and Dad’s idea of fun may not be quite what the kids had in mind. So they offer extras like daily supervised children’s activities, babysitters, family discounts, and kids’ meals, helping your children to have a great vacation while their parents gain some freedom to relax, too.

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You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Network (www.familytravel network.com); Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. How to Take Great Trips with Your Kids (from The Harvard Common Press) is full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere.

AFRICAN-AMERICAN TRAVELERS Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (& 215/473-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), a Philadelphia-based travel agency with an extensive menu of tours in destinations worldwide, including heritage and private group tours; and the African-American Association of Innkeepers International (& 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com), which provides information on member B&Bs in the U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean. The Internet offers a number of helpful travel sites for the black traveler. Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts

Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers.com (www.frommers.com). We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popular Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions); the Frommers.com newsletter, for the latest travel bargains and insider travel secrets; and Frommer’s Destinations Section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,000 destinations around the globe. When your research is done, the Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online partners for booking your vacation at affordable prices.

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news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travelbooking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a more comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

9 Getting There: Flying to The Bahamas Lying right off the east coast of Florida, the archipelago of The Bahamas is the easiest and most convenient foreign destination you can fly to unless you live next to the Canadian or Mexican borders. Nassau is the busiest and most popular point of entry (this is where you’ll fly if you’re staying on Paradise Island). Freeport, on Grand Bahama, also has its own airport, which is served by flights from the U.S. mainland, too. Flight time to Nassau from Miami is about 35 minutes; from New York, 21⁄ 2 hours; from Atlanta, 2 hours and 5 minutes; from Philadelphia, 2 hours and 45 minutes; from Charlotte, 2 hours and 10 minutes; from central Florida, 1 hour and 10 minutes; and, from Toronto, 3 hours.

THE MAJOR AIRLINES From the U.S. mainland, about a half dozen carriers fly nonstop to the country’s major point of entry and busiest airline hub, Nassau International Airport (& 242/377-1759). Some also fly to the archipelago’s second-most-populous city of Freeport. Delta (& 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) has several connections to The Bahamas, with service from Atlanta, Orlando, and New York’s LaGuardia. The national airline of The Bahamas, Bahamasair (& 800/ 222-4262; www.bahamasair.com), flies to The Bahamas from Miami, landing at either Nassau (with seven nonstop flights daily) or Freeport (with two nonstop flights daily). US Airways (& 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) offers daily direct flights to Nassau from Philadelphia and Charlotte, North Carolina. Smaller carriers include Continental Airlines (& 800/5250280; www.continental.com), with daily flights to North Eleuthera from both Fort Lauderdale and Miami, and Twin Air (& 954/ 359-8266; www.twinair.com), flying from Fort Lauderdale three times a week to Rock Sound and Governor’s Harbour and four times a week to North Eleuthera.

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Air Canada (& 888/247-2262 in the U.S. or 800/268-7240 in Canada; www.aircanada.ca) is the only carrier offering scheduled service to Nassau from Canada. A direct flight from Toronto leaves once weekly on Sunday; other flights from both Toronto and Montréal, as well as other Canadian cities, make connections in the U.S. British travelers opt for transatlantic passage aboard British Airways (& 800/247-9297 in the U.S. or 0845/773-3377 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com), which offers four weekly direct flights from London to Nassau. The airline also has at least one flight daily to Miami. From here, a staggering number of connections are available to Nassau and many other points within the archipelago on several carriers. GETTING THROUGH THE AIRPORT

With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight. Bring a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport, and if you’ve got an e-ticket, print out the official confirmation page; you’ll need to show your confirmation at the security checkpoint, and your ID at the ticket counter or the gate. (Children under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights.) Security lines are getting shorter than they were during 2001 and 2002, but long ones still remain. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles or clanky earrings. If you’ve got metallic body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for folks escorting passengers with disabilities or children. Federalization has also stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine—but that security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it, as explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carryon bag, plus a “personal item” such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop

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bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s still considered a personal item. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its website (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for details. In 2003 the TSA began phasing out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you’re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. If you’re checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines’ kiosks; again call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, although a few airlines still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go. At press time, the TSA is also recommending that you not lock your checked luggage so screeners can search it by hand if necessary. The agency says to use plastic “zip ties” instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.

FLYING FOR LESS: TIPS FOR GETTING THE BEST AIRFARE Passengers sharing the same airplane cabin rarely pay the same fare. Travelers who need to purchase tickets at the last minute, change their itinerary at a moment’s notice, or fly one-way often get stuck paying the premium rate. Here are some ways to keep your airfare costs down. • Passengers who can book their ticket long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at lesstrafficked hours will pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans. • You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off-months, you may snag a bargain. • Search the Internet for cheap fares. • Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are sources for international tickets, although they usually can’t beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S, travelers should focus

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on the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami Herald. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. FlyCheap (& 800/FLYCHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (& 800/ 778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; it’ll also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won’t touch, such as Cuba. • Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue enough miles, and you’ll be rewarded with free flights and elite status. It’s free, and you’ll get the best choice of seats, faster response to phone inquiries, and prompter service if your luggage is stolen, your flight is canceled or delayed, or if you want to change your seat. You don’t need to fly to build frequent-flier miles—frequent-flier credit cards can provide thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. • Book a seat on a charter flight. Discounted fares have pared the number available, but they can still be found. Most charter operators advertise and sell their seats through travel agents, thus making these local professionals your best source of information for available flights. Before deciding to take a charter flight, however, check the restrictions on the ticket. You may be asked to purchase a tour package, to be amenable if the day of departure is changed, to pay a service charge, to fly on an airline you’re not familiar with (this usually is not the case), and to pay harsh penalties if you cancel—but be understanding if the charter doesn’t fill up and is canceled up to 10 days before departure. The most prominent charter operator in The Bahamas is Nassau/Paradise Island Express, P.O. 1004, 284 Millburn Ave., Millburn, NJ 07041 (& 800/722-4262; www.18007 bahamas.com). The company contracts for the entire aircraft. No advance booking is required, and there are no restrictions on travel dates. You can stay for a day or as long as you like. The company contracts an entire Continental Airlines aircraft, which operates daily from Newark. Airfare can be sold alone or in conjunction with hotel packages at New Providence, Paradise Island, and Freeport/Lucaya.

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• Join a travel club such as Moment’s Notice (& 718/2346295; www.moments-notice.com) or Sears Discount Travel Club (& 800/433-9383 or 800/255-1487 to join; www. travelersadvantage.com), which supply unsold tickets at discounted prices. You pay an annual membership fee to get the club’s hot-line number. Of course, you’re limited to what’s available, so you have to be flexible.

10 For the Cruise-Ship Traveler Cruises to The Bahamas are usually either 3- or 4-day weekend getaways or weeklong itineraries in which the ship may stop at Nassau, Freeport, and/or one of several privately owned Bahamian islands for a day at the beach en route to Caribbean ports farther south. If you’ve never been to The Bahamas, consider a cruise to Nassau, where you can also enjoy Paradise Island and Cable Beach on the same visit. It has better shopping possibilities, better restaurants, and more entertainment than any other site in The Bahamas, including Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island. A summary of cruise lines that offer diversions in The Bahamas is outlined below, but for much more detailed information, and reviews of each of the ships spending significant time in either the Caribbean or The Bahamas, consider picking up a copy of Frommer’s Caribbean Cruises & Ports of Call 2004. Regardless of the ship you choose, there’s a strong possibility that your cruise will depart from the cruise capital of the world, Miami. A handful of vessels also depart for Bahamian waters from Port Everglades (adjacent to Fort Lauderdale), Port Canaveral, and, in very rare instances, from New York. Many cruise-ship passengers combine a 3- or 4-day cruise with visits to Orlando’s theme parks, Miami’s South Beach, the Florida Everglades, or the Florida Keys and Key West. Nearly all cabins aboard ships today have two twin beds that can be pushed together, plus storage space (of varying size), a shower and a toilet (ditto), and sometimes a TV showing a rotating stock of programs. If you want to keep costs to a minimum when booking, ask for one of the smaller, inside cabins (one without windows). If you’re the type who likes to be active all day and then stay out late enjoying the ship’s bars and nightclubs, you won’t miss the sunshine anyway. On the other hand, passengers of means are being offered suites today that have an amazing array of pampering options (including hot tubs on their own private verandas!).

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Because they buy in such bulk, cruise lines typically offer some of the best deals on airfare to your port of embarkation, and also typically offer extension packages that allow pre- or post-cruise stays at a hotel or resort. Getting around Freeport/Lucaya or Nassau is relatively easy, and the official shore excursions offered by most ships are dull and sometimes restrictive, so it’s best to decide what you want to do (shopping, swimming, snorkeling, or gambling) and head off on your own during your stop at each port of call. You’ll certainly have time to relax at the beach if you choose, or to enjoy watersports (the chapters that follow will give you details on what companies or outfitters to contact for equipment, so you needn’t feel dependent on the cruise line for everything). See chapter 3, for more details about sports in Nassau, or chapter 5, for information about sports in Freeport/Lucaya. In Nassau, cruise ships anchor at piers along Prince George Wharf. Taxi drivers meet all arrivals and will transport you into the heart of Nassau, center of most shopping and sightseeing activities. Duty-free shops also lie just outside the dock area, but for that, you’d do better to go inside the city’s commercial and historic core. As you disembark, you’ll find a tourist information office in a tall pink tower, where you can pick up maps of New Providence Island or of Nassau itself. One-hour walking tours are conducted from here if you’d like an overview of the city, with a guide pointing out historic monuments. Outside this office, an ATM will supply you with U.S. dollars if your cash is running low.

11 Package Deals Before you start your search for the lowest airfare on your own (see earlier), you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a package, since there are so many good-value packages often available to The Bahamas. A package deal is primarily a way of traveling independently but paying group rates. A package tour is not the same as an escorted tour. An escorted tour where you’re hauled around by a guide is not the way one visits The Bahamas, unless you consider cruise ships an escorted tour. An escorted tour is for those who want to see—say, “all of Europe” in 13 days. Except by cruise ships visiting certain islands, the option of being escorted around six or so Bahamian islands on an escorted tour does not exist.

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Packages are simply a way to buy airfare and accommodations at the same time. For popular destinations like The Bahamas, they are a smart way to go, because in many cases, they can save you a lot of money. Often, a package that includes airfare, hotel, and transportation to and from the airport will cost you less than just the hotel alone would have had you booked plane tickets, hotels, and car rentals independently. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators who resell them to the public at a cost that drastically undercuts standard rates. Packages, however, vary widely. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, while others book charters. In some packages, your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. Some packages let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations; others will allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted day trips (also at lower prices than you could locate on your own) without booking an entirely escorted tour. Each destination usually has one or two packagers that are usually cheaper than the rest because they buy in even greater bulk. It’s important to spend a little time shopping around; just be sure to compare apples to apples, since the offerings can vary. You can use the reviews and rack rates given in this book to evaluate whether a package is really a good deal. Here are a few tips to help you tell one package from another, and figure out which one is right for you: • Read the fine print. Make sure you know exactly what’s included in the price you’re being quoted, and what’s not. Are hotel taxes and airport transfers included, or will you have to pay extra? Conversely, don’t pay for a rental car you don’t need. Before you commit to a package, make sure you know how much flexibility you have, say, if your child gets sick or your boss suddenly asks you to adjust your vacation schedule. Some packagers require ironclad commitments, whereas others will go with the flow, charging only minimal fees for changes or cancellations. • Use your best judgment. Stay away from fly-by-nights and shady packagers. If a deal appears to be too good to be true, it probably is. Go with a reputable firm with a proven track record. This is where your travel agent can come in handy; he or she should be knowledgeable about different packagers.

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The best place to start your search is the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Also check the ads in the back of national travel magazines like Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, Travel Holiday, and Condé Nast Traveler. Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel always has lots of ads and frequent articles about good-value packages. Vacation Together (& 800/839-9851; www.vacationtogether. com) allows you to search for and book packages offered by a number of tour operators and airlines. The United States Tour Operators Association’s website (& 212/599-6599; www.ustoa.com) has a search engine that allows you to look for operators that offer packages to a specific destination.

RECOMMENDED PACKAGE-TOUR OPERATORS Liberty Travel (& 888/271-1584 or 201/934-3888; www.liberty travel.com) is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, and it usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (& 800/321-2121; http://aav8.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (& 800/221-6666 or 800/872-7786; www.delta vacations.com), US Airways Vacations (& 800/455-0123 or 800/ 422-3861; www.usairwaysvacations.com), and Continental Airlines Vacations (& 800/301-3800; www.coolvacations.com). The biggest hotel chains and resorts also offer package deals. If you already know where you want to stay, call the resort itself and ask if it can offer land/air packages. There’s also TourScan, Inc., P.O. Box 2367, Darien, CT 06820 (& 800/962-2080 in the U.S., or 203/655-8091; fax 203/655-6689; www.tourscan.com), which researches the best value vacation at each hotel and condo. Two catalogs are printed each year. Each lists a broad choice of hotels on most of the islands in The Bahamas, in all price ranges. Catalogs cost $4 each, the price of which is credited to any TourScan vacation. Prices are based on travel from New York, Newark, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C., although the company will arrange trips originating from any location in the United States or abroad on request. For one-stop shopping on the Web, go to www.vacation packager.com, a search engine that will link you to many different package-tour operators offering Bahamas vacations, often with a company profile summarizing the company’s basic booking and cancellation terms.

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ALL-INCLUSIVE TOURS Just-A-Vacation, Inc., 2910 Hamilton St., Hyattville, MD 20782 (& 800/734-0730 or 301/559-0510; www.justavacation.net) specializes in all-inclusive resorts on the islands of The Bahamas, plus other destinations in the Caribbean including Barbados, Jamaica, Aruba, St. Lucia, and Antigua. Club Med (& 800/258-2633; www.clubmed.com) has various all-inclusive options throughout the Caribbean and The Bahamas.

SPECIAL TOURS FOR FISHERMEN Frontiers International (& 800/245-1950 or 724/935-1577; www.frontierstrvl.com) features fly- and spin-fishing tours of The Bahamas and is a specialist in saltwater-fishing destinations.

FOR BRITISH TRAVELERS Package tours to The Bahamas can be booked through Harlequin Worldwide Connoisseurs Collection, 2 North Rd., South Ockendon, Essex RM15 6QJ (& 01708/850-300). This agency offers both air and hotel packages. The company also specializes in scubadiving and golf holidays. Another specialist is Kuoni Travel, Kuoni House, Dorking, Surrey RH5 4AZ (& 01306/742-222; www.kuoni.co.uk), which offers both land and air packages to The Bahamas, including Nassau and Freeport. They also offer packages for self-catering villas on Paradise Island.

12 Getting Around If your final destination is Paradise Island, Freeport, or Nassau (Cable Beach) and you plan to fly, you’ll have little trouble in reaching your destination.

BY PLANE The national airline of The Bahamas, Bahamasair (& 800/2224262; www.bahamasair.com), serves 19 airports on 12 Bahamian islands.

BY RENTAL CAR Many travelers don’t really need to rent a car in The Bahamas, especially those who are coming for a few days of soaking in the sun at their resort’s own beach. In Nassau and Freeport, you can easily rely on public transportation or taxis. Most visitors need transportation only from the airport to their hotel; perhaps you can arrange an island tour later, and an expensive

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private car won’t be necessary. Your hotel can always arrange a taxi for you if you want to venture out. You may decide that you want a car to explore beyond the tourist areas of New Providence Island, and you’re very likely to want one on Grand Bahama Island. Just remember: Road rules are much the same as those in the U.S., but you drive on the left. The major U.S. car-rental companies operate in The Bahamas, but not on all the remote islands. There are also a handful of local car-rental companies, some of which may charge a few dollars less. We always prefer to do business with one of the major firms if they’re present because you can call ahead and reserve from home via a toll-free number; they tend to offer better-maintained vehicles; and it’s easier to resolve any disputes after the fact. Call Budget (& 800/527-0700; www.budget.com), Hertz (& 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com), Dollar (& 800/800-4000; www.dollarcar.com), or Avis (& 800/331-1212; www.avis.com). Budget rents only in Nassau. Liability insurance is compulsory. Visitors may drive with their home driver’s license for up to 3 months. For longer stays, you’ll need to secure a Bahamian driver’s license. As you emerge at one of the major airports, including those of Nassau (New Providence) and Freeport (Grand Bahama Island), you can pick up island maps that are pretty good for routine touring around those islands

BY TAXI Once you’ve reached your destination, you’ll find that taxis are plentiful in the Nassau-Cable Beach-Paradise Island area and in the Freeport/Lucaya area on Grand Bahama Island. These cabs, for the most part, are metered—but they take cash only, no credit cards. See “Getting Around” in the chapters on each island that follow for further details.

13 Tips on Accommodations The Bahamas offers a wide selection of accommodations, ranging from small private guesthouses to large luxury resorts. Hotels vary in size and facilities, from deluxe (offering room service, sports, swimming pools, entertainment, and so on) to fairly simple inns. There are package deals galore, and they are always cheaper than “rack rates.” (A rack rate is what an individual pays if he or she literally walks in from the street; these are the rates we’ve listed in the

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chapters that follow, though you can almost always do better at the big resorts.) So it’s sometimes good to go to a reliable travel agent to find out what, if anything, is available in the way of a land-and-air package before booking into a particular accommodation. See section 11, “Package Deals,” earlier in this chapter, for details on a number of companies that usually offer good-value packages to The Bahamas. There is no rigid classification of hotel properties in the islands. The word “deluxe” is often used (or misused) when “first class” might have been a more appropriate term. “First class” itself often isn’t. For that and other reasons, we’ve presented fairly detailed descriptions of the properties so that you’ll get an idea of what to expect. However, even in the deluxe and first-class resorts and hotels, don’t expect top-rate service and efficiency. When you go to turn on the shower, sometimes you get water and sometimes you don’t. You may even experience power failures. The winter season in The Bahamas runs roughly from the middle of December to the middle of April, and hotels charge their highest prices during this peak period. Winter is generally the dry season in the islands, but there can be heavy rainfall regardless of the time of year. During the winter months, make reservations 2 months in advance if you can. You can’t book early enough if you want to travel over Christmas or in February. The off season in The Bahamas—roughly from mid-April to mid-December (although this varies from hotel to hotel)—amounts to a sale. In most cases, hotel rates are slashed a startling 20% to 60%. It’s a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially for families who can travel in the summer. Be prepared for very strong sun, though, plus a higher chance of rain. Also note that hurricane season runs through summer and fall.

MAP VERSUS AP OR DO YOU WANT TO GO EP? All Bahamian resorts offer a European Plan (EP) rate, which means that you pay for the price of a room. That leaves you free to dine around at night at various other resorts or restaurants without restriction. Another plan preferred by many is the Continental Plan (CP), which means you get a continental breakfast of juice, coffee, bread, and jam included in a set price. This plan is preferred by those who don’t like to “dine around” at breakfast time. Another major option is the Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one main meal of the day, either lunch or dinner. The final choice is the American Plan (AP), which

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What the Hotel Symbols Mean As you’re shopping around for your hotel, you may see the following terms used: • AP (American Plan): Includes three meals a day (sometimes called full board or full pension). • EP (European Plan): Includes only the room—no meals. • CP (Continental Plan): Includes continental breakfast of juice, coffee, bread, and jam. • MAP (Modified American Plan): Sometimes called half board or half pension, this room rate includes breakfast and dinner (or lunch instead of dinner if you prefer).

includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At certain resorts you will save money by booking in on either MAP or AP, because discounts are granted. If you dine a la carte often for lunch and dinner, your dining costs will be much higher than if you stay on the MAP or AP. Dining at your hotel at night cuts down on transportation costs. Taxis especially are expensive. Nonetheless, if dining out and having many different culinary experiences is your idea of a vacation, and you’re willing to pay the higher price, avoid AP plans or at least make sure the hotel where you’re staying has more than one dining room (see above). One option is to ask if your hotel has a dine-around plan. You might still keep costs in check, but you can avoid a culinary rut by taking your meals in some other restaurants if your hotel has such a plan. Such plans are more rare in The Bahamas, which does not specialize in all-inclusive resorts the way that Jamaica or some other islands do. Before booking a room, check with a good travel agent or investigate on your own what you are likely to save by booking on a dining plan. Under certain circumstances in winter you might not have a choice if MAP is dictated as a requirement for staying there. It pays to investigate, of course.

A RIGHT ROOM AT THE RIGHT PRICE Ask detailed questions when booking a room. Don’t just ask to be booked into a certain hotel, but specify your likes and dislikes. There are several logistics of getting the right room in a hotel. Entertainment in The Bahamas is often alfresco, so light sleepers obviously won’t want a room directly over a steel band. In general, back rooms cost less than oceanfront rooms, and lower rooms cost less

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than upper-floor units. Therefore, if budget is a major consideration with you, opt for the cheaper rooms. You won’t have a great view, but you’ll pay less and save your money for something else. Just make sure that it isn’t next to the all-night drummers. Of course, all first-class or deluxe resorts feature air-conditioning, but many Bahamian inns do not. Cooling might be by ceiling fans or, in more modest places, the breeze from an open window, which also brings the mosquitoes. If sleeping in a climate-controlled environment is important to your vacation, ascertain this in advance. If you’re being your own travel agent, it pays to shop around by calling the local number given for a hotel and its toll-free number if it has one. You can check online and call a travel agent to see where you can obtain the best price. Another tip: Ask if you can get an upgrade or a free night’s stay if you stay an extra few days. If you’re traveling during the marginal periods between low and high season, you can sometimes delay your travel plans by a week or 10 days and get a substantial reduction. For example, a $300 room booked on April 12 might have been lowered to $180 by April 17, as mid-April marks the beginning of the low season in The Bahamas. Tip for seniors: Ask if an AARP card will get you a discount. Transfers from the airports or the cruise dock are included in some hotel bookings, most often in a package plan but usually not in ordinary bookings. This is true of first-class and deluxe resorts but rarely of medium-priced or budget accommodations. Always ascertain whether transfers (which can be expensive) are included. When using the facilities at a resort, make sure that you know exactly what is free and what costs money. For example, swimming in the pool is nearly always free, but you might be charged for use of a tennis court. Nearly all watersports cost extra, unless you’re booked on some special plan such as scuba package. Some resorts seem to charge every time you breathe and might end up costing more than a deluxe hotel that includes most everything in the price. Some hotels are right on the beach. Others involve transfers to the beach by taxi or bus, so factor in transportation costs, which can mount quickly if you stay 5 days to a week.

THE ALL-INCLUSIVES A hugely popular option in Jamaica, the all-inclusive resort hotel concept finally has a foothold in The Bahamas. At most resorts, everything is included—sometimes even drinks. You get your room and all meals, plus entertainment and many watersports (although

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some cost extra). Some people find the cost of this all-inclusive holiday cheaper than if they’d paid individually for each item, and some simply appreciate knowing in advance what their final bill will be. The first all-inclusive resort hotel in The Bahamas was Club Med (& 800/258-2633; www.clubmed.com) at its property on Paradise Island. This is not a swinging-singles kind of place; it’s popular with everybody from honeymooners to families with kids along. There’s another mammoth Club Med at Governor’s Harbour on Eleuthera. Families with kids like it a lot here, and the resort also attracts scuba divers. There’s a third branch in San Salvador, in the southern Bahamas, which has more of a luxurious hideaway atmosphere. The biggest all-inclusive of them all, Sandals (& 800/SANDALS; www.sandals.com), came to The Bahamas in 1995 on Cable Beach. This Jamaican company is now walking its sandals across the Caribbean, having established firm beachheads in Ocho Rios, Montego Bay, and Negril. The most famous of the all-inclusives (but not necessarily the best), it caters only to male-female couples, having long ago rescinded its initial policy of “Any two people in love.”

RENTAL VILLAS & VACATION HOMES You might rent a big villa, a good-size apartment in someone’s condo, or even a small beach cottage (more accurately called a cabana). Private apartments come with or without maid service (ask up front exactly what to expect). This is more of a no-frills option than the villas and condos. The apartments may not be in buildings with swimming pools, and they may not have a front desk to help you. Many cottages or cabanas ideally open onto a beach, although others may be clustered around a communal swimming pool. Most of them are fairly simple, containing no more than a plain bedroom plus a small kitchen and bathroom. In the peak winter season, reservations should be made at least 5 or 6 months in advance. Hideaways International (& 888/843-4433 in the U.S. or 603/430-4433; www.hideaways.com) publishes Hideaways Guide, a 148-page pictorial directory of home rentals throughout the world, with full descriptions so you know what you’re renting. Rentals range from cottages to staffed villas to whole islands! On most rentals you deal directly with owners. At condos and small resorts, Hideaways offers member discounts. Other services include specialty cruises, yacht charters, airline ticketing, car rentals, and hotel reservations. Annual membership costs $145. Sometimes local tourist offices will also advise you on vacationhome rentals if you write or call them directly.

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THE BAHAMIAN GUESTHOUSE The guesthouse is where many Bahamians themselves stay when they’re traveling in their own islands. In The Bahamas, however, the term “guesthouse” can mean anything. Sometimes so-called guesthouses are really like simple motels built around swimming pools. Others are small individual cottages, with their own kitchenettes, constructed around a main building in which you’ll often find a bar and restaurant serving local food.

FAST FACTS: The Bahamas American Express Representing American Express in The Bahamas is Destinatinos, on Shirley Street (between Charlotte and Parliament sts.), Nassau (& 242/322-2931). Hours are 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday. The travel department is also open Saturday 9am to 1pm. If you present a personal check and an Amex card, you can buy traveler’s checks here. Area Code The area code for The Bahamas is 242. ATM Networks See “Money,” earlier in this chapter. Business Hours In Nassau, Cable Beach, and Freeport/Lucaya, commercial banking hours are 9:30am to 3pm Monday through Thursday, 9:30am to 5pm on Friday. Most government offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and most shops are open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Camera & Film Purchasing film in Nassau/Paradise Island or Freeport/Lucaya is relatively easy, if a little expensive. Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter. We do not recommend renting a car in The Bahamas. Climate See “When to Go,” earlier in this chapter. Crime See “Safety,” below. Currency See “Money,” earlier in this chapter. Drug Laws Importing, possessing, or dealing in unlawful drugs, including marijuana, is a serious offense in The Bahamas, with heavy penalties. Customs officers may at their discretion conduct body searches for drugs or other contraband goods. Drugstores Nassau and Freeport are amply supplied with pharmacies (see individual listings).

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Electricity Electricity is normally 120 volts, 60 cycles, AC. American appliances are fully compatible; British or European appliances will need both converters and adapters. Embassies & Consulates The U.S. embassy is on Queen Street, P.O. Box N-8197, Nassau (& 242/322-4753), and the Canadian consulate is on Shirley Street Shopping Plaza, Nassau (& 242/ 393-2123). The British High Commission is at Ansbacher House (3rd floor), East Street, Nassau (& 242/325-7471). Emergencies Throughout most of The Bahamas, the number to call for a medical, dental, or hospital emergency is & 911. To report a fire, however, call & 411. Etiquette & Customs When encountering a person, even if a stranger in the Out Islands, it is customary to exchange greetings. A “good morning” or “afternoon” will suffice. But that custom doesn’t prevail in bustling Freeport and Nassau. It is impolite anywhere to rush up to someone and demand that they supply you with directions to a place; Bahamians gently lead into conversations with a greeting and friendly comments before getting down to business. Business in offices is conducted rather formally with exchange of business cards, elaborate handshakes, and the like. If you’re doing business in The Bahamas, wear business clothes as you would to any office in America. Don’t show up in resort wear or shorts for any formal meetings or functions. When leaving the beach, it’s recommended that men put on a shirt and pants, even a pair of jeans, before heading into a town. Women should wear a cover-up for their bathing suit, or else slip into a tropical dress or pants. If you’re planning to attend religious services, wear the best clothes you brought along. Bahamians believe in dressing up for their “Sunday-go-to meeting.” Regardless of how colorful an islander may look, it is extremely rude to photograph anyone without his or her permission. Holidays Public holidays observed in The Bahamas are New Year’s Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Whitmonday (7 weeks after Easter), Labour Day (the first Fri in June), Independence Day (July 10), Emancipation Day (the first Mon in Aug), Discovery Day (Oct 12), Christmas, and Boxing Day (the day after Christmas). When a holiday falls on Saturday

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or Sunday, stores and offices are usually closed on the following Monday. Information See “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter. Internet Access Access is limited on the islands, but it can be obtained. Cybercafe, in The Mall at Marathon in Nassau (& 242/394-6254), is open daily from 10am to 8pm, charging 15¢ per minute; there are four computers available. Language In The Bahamas, locals speak English, but sometimes with a marked accent that provides the clue to their ancestry—African, Irish, Scottish, or whatever. Liquor Laws Liquor is sold in liquor stores and various convenience stores; it’s readily available at all hours though not sold on Sundays. The legal drinking age is 18. Lost & Found Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s U.S. emergency number is & 800/847-2911 or 410/ 581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call & 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call & 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at & 800/555-1212. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (& 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Identity theft or fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (& 800/ 766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (& 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (& 800/680-7289; www. transunion.com). Finally, if you’ve lost all forms of photo I.D. call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow

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you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. Mail & Postage Rates You’ll need Bahamian (not U.S.) postage stamps to send postcards and letters. Most of the kiosks selling postcards also sell the stamps you’ll need to mail them, so you probably won’t need to visit the post office. Sending a postcard or an airmail letter (up to 1⁄ 2-oz. in weight) from The Bahamas to anywhere outside its borders (including the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.) costs 65¢, with another charged for each additional half-ounce of weight. Newspapers & Magazines Three newspapers are circulated in Nassau and Freeport: the Nassau Guardian, the Tribune, and the Freeport News. You can find such papers as the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, USA Today, The Miami Herald, Times of London, and Daily Telegraph at newsstands in your hotel and elsewhere in Nassau. Passports Passport requirements vary according to your country of origin. For Residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http:// travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (& 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (& 900/ 225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls. For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at & 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk. For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 12† 3-year passport. You

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can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (& 021/272-525) or at most main post offices. For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at & 0800/ 225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www. passports.govt.nz. Pets You’ll have to get a valid import permit to bring any animal into The Bahamas. Application for such a permit must be made in writing, accompanied by a $10 processing fee and a $5 fax fee, to the Director of Agriculture, Department of Agriculture, P.O. Box N-3028, Nassau, The Bahamas (& 242/ 325-7413), at least 4 weeks in advance. Police Dial & 911. Safety When going to Nassau (New Providence), Cable Beach, Paradise Island, or Freeport/Lucaya, exercise the same caution you would if visiting Miami. Whatever you do, if people peddling drugs approach you, steer well clear of them. Women, especially, should take caution if walking alone on the streets of Nassau after dark, particularly if those streets appear to be deserted. Pickpockets (often foreigners) work the crowded casino floors of both Paradise Beach and Cable Beach. See that your wallet, money, and valuables are well secured. If you’re driving a rental car, always make sure your car door is locked, and never leave possessions in view in an automobile. Don’t leave valuables such as cameras and purses lying unattended on the beach while you go for a swim. If you are traveling with valuables, especially jewelry, don’t leave them unguarded in hotel rooms. Many of the larger hotels will provide safes. Keep your hotel room doors locked at all times. Taxes Departure tax is $20 ($22 from Grand Bahama Island) for visitors ages 7 and up. An 8% tax is imposed on hotel bills; otherwise there is no sales tax in The Bahamas.

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Telephone To call The Bahamas from the U.S. or Canada, dial 1-242 plus the seven-digit local number. From the U.K., dial 001-242 plus the local seven-digit number. To make a direct international call from The Bahamas to the U.S. or Canada, dial 1 plus the area code and local number. To call other countries, dial 011 plus the country code (the U.K. is 44, for example), the area code (usually without its initial zero), and the local number. For local calls within The Bahamas, simply dial the sevendigit number. To call from one island to another within The Bahamas, dial 1-242 and then the seven-digit local number. Note that the old coin-operated phones are still prevalent and still swallow coins. Each local call costs 25¢; you can use either Bahamian or U.S. quarters. Those old phones, however, are gradually being replaced by phones that use calling cards (debit cards), similar in appearance to a credit card, that come in denominations of $5, $10, $20, and $50. They can be bought from any office of BATELCO (Bahamas Telephone Co.). BATELCO’s main branch is on Kennedy Drive, Nassau (& 242/ 302-7000), although a popular local branch lies in the commercial heart of Nassau, on East Street off Bay Street. To get directory assistance within The Bahamas, dial & 916. To reach an international or a domestic operator within The Bahamas, dial 0. There is no distinction made in The Bahamas between the two types of operators. To reach the major international services of AT&T, dial & 800/CALLATT from any phone, or head for any phone with AT&T or USA DIRECT marked on the side of the booth. Picking up the handset will connect you with an AT&T operator. These phones are often positioned beside cruise-ship docks to help passengers disembarking on shore leave for the day. MCI can be reached at & 800/888-8000. Time Eastern Standard Time is used throughout The Bahamas, and daylight savings time is observed in the summer. Tipping Many establishments add a service charge, but it’s customary to leave something extra if service has been especially fine. If you’re not sure whether service has been included in your bill, don’t be shy—ask. Bellboys and porters, at least in the expensive hotels, expect a tip of $1 per bag. It’s also customary to tip your maid at least $2 per day—more if she or he has performed special

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services such as getting a shirt or blouse laundered. Most service personnel, including taxi drivers, waiters, and the like, expect 15% (20% in deluxe restaurants). Tourist Offices See “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter, and also specific island chapters. Water Technically, tap water is drinkable throughout The Bahamas. But we almost always opt for bottled. Resorts tend to filter and chlorinate tap water more aggressively than other establishments; anywhere else, bottled water is available at stores and supermarkets, and tastes better than that from a tap. Weddings To marry here, bride and groom must both be in The Bahamas at the moment they apply for the $40 wedding license. If both are single and U.S. citizens, they must obtain an affidavit to that effect from the U.S. embassy in Nassau. The fee is $55 per person; you’ll need to appear in person with ID such as a passport (and, if applicable, proof of divorce). If all of these requirements are met, you can then get married after staying for 24 hours in The Bahamas. No blood test is necessary. Contact the Ministry of Tourism at P.O. Box N-3701, Nassau, The Bahamas (& 888/NUPTIAL) for more details.

3 New Providence (Nassau/Cable Beach) O

ne million visitors a year have cast their vote: They want to visit Nassau, adjoining Cable Beach, or Paradise Island (which is covered separately in chapter 4). This is the center of all the action: the best shopping, the best entertainment, the most historic attractions— plus some of the best beaches in The Bahamas. The capital of The Bahamas, the historic city of Nassau is a 35minute flight from Miami. Despite the development and the modern hotels, a laid-back tropical atmosphere still hangs over the city, and it still offers a good dose of colonial charm. The commercial and banking hub of The Bahamas, as well as a mecca for shoppers, Nassau lies on the north side of New Providence, which is 34km (21 miles) long and 11km (7 miles) wide at its greatest point. Cable Beach, a stretch of sand just west of the city, is lined with luxury resorts—in fact, the Nassau/Cable Beach area has the largest tourist infrastructure in The Bahamas, though there’s another concentration of luxury hotels on Paradise Island. (If you want to stay right on the sands, don’t choose a hotel in downtown Nassau itself. Head for Cable Beach or Paradise Island. You can easily reach the beach from a base in Nassau, but it won’t be right outside your window.) When you’re based in Nassau/Cable Beach, you have an array of watersports, golf, tennis, and plenty of duty-free shopping nearby— not to mention those fine, powdery beaches. In addition, the resorts, restaurants, and beaches of Paradise Island, discussed in the next chapter, are just a short distance away. (Paradise Island, which lies just opposite Nassau, is connected to New Providence Island by a toll bridge that costs $2 for cars, 25¢ for pedestrians; there’s also frequent ferry and water-taxi service between Nassau and Paradise Island.) As the sun goes down, Cable Beach and Paradise Island heat up, offering fine dining, glitzy casinos, cabaret shows, moonlight cruises, dance clubs, and romantic evening strolls. (We’d confine that evening

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stroll to Cable Beach or Paradise Island, though, and not the streets of downtown Nassau, which can be dangerous at night.) The shops might draw a lot more business than the museums, but no city in The Bahamas is as rich in history as Nassau. You can take a “royal climb” up the Queen’s Staircase to Fort Fincastle. These 66 steps lead to a fort said to have been cut in the sandstone cliffs by slaves in the 1790s. Other Nassau attractions include Ardastra Gardens, which feature 2 hectares (5 acres) of landscaping and more than 300 exotic birds, mammals, and reptiles. (Most popular are the trained pink flamingos that march for audiences daily to their trainer’s commands.) It’s surprising that Nassau has retained its overlay of British colonial charm despite its proximity to Florida. Yet, it truly hasn’t become Americanized; despite new development, traffic, and cruiseship crowds, Nassau’s a long way from becoming another Miami. Stately old homes and public buildings still stand proudly among the modern high-rises and bland government buildings. Tropical foliage lines streets where horse-drawn surreys still trot by, carrying visitors on leisurely tours. Police officers in white starched jackets and colorful pith helmets still direct traffic on the main streets as they have long done. It could almost be England—but for the weather, that is.

1 Orientation ARRIVING BY PLANE Planes land at Nassau International Airport (& 242/377-1759), which lies 13km (8 miles) west of Nassau by Lake Killarney. There is no bus service from the airport to Cable Beach, Nassau, or Paradise Island. Your hotel may provide airport transfers if you’ve made arrangements in advance; these are often included in package deals. There are also any number of car-rental offices here if you plan to have a car while on New Providence Island (see “Getting Around,” below), though we don’t really think you need one. If you don’t have a lift arranged, take a taxi to your hotel. From the airport to the center of Nassau, expect to pay around $20; from the airport to Cable Beach, $15; from the airport to Paradise Island, $25 to $27 including toll. Drivers expect to be tipped 15%, and some will remind you should you “forget.” You don’t need to stop at a currency exchange office before departing the airport: U.S. currency is fine for these (and any other) transactions.

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BY CRUISE SHIP In recent years, Nassau has spent millions of dollars expanding its port so that a number of cruise ships can come into port at once. Sounds great in theory. Practically speaking, however, facilities in Nassau, Cable Beach, and Paradise Island become extremely overcrowded as soon as the big boats dock. You’ll have to stake out your space on the beach, and you will find shops and attractions overrun with visitors every day you’re in port. Cruise ships dock near Rawson Square, the heart of the city and the shopping area—and the best place to begin a tour of Nassau. Unless you want to go to one of the beach strips along Cable Beach or Paradise Island, you won’t need a taxi. You can go on a shopping expedition near where you dock: The site of the Straw Market is nearby, at Market Plaza; Bay Street—the main shopping artery—is also close; and the Nassau International Bazaar is at the intersection of Woodes Rogers Walk and Charlotte Street.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism maintains a tourist information booth at the Nassau International Airport in the Arrivals terminal (& 242/377-6806). Hours are from 8:30am to 11pm daily. Information can also be obtained from the Information Desk at the Ministry of Tourism’s Office, Rawson Square (& 242/328-7810), which is open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm.

THE LAY OF THE LAND Most of the hotels in Nassau are city hotels and are not on the water. If you want to stay right on the sands, choose a hotel in Cable Beach (later in this chapter) or on Paradise Island (see chapter 4). Rawson Square is the heart of Nassau, lying just a short walk from Prince George Wharf, where the big cruise ships, usually from Florida, berth. Here you’ll see the Churchill Building, which contains the offices of the Bahamian prime minister along with other government ministries. Busy Bay Street, the main shopping artery, begins on the south side of Rawson Square. This was the street of the infamous “Bay Street Boys,” a group of rich, white Bahamians who once controlled all political and economic activity on New Providence. On the opposite side of Rawson Square is Parliament Square, with a statue of a youthful Queen Victoria. Here are more government houses and the House of Assembly. These are Georgian and neo-Georgian buildings, some dating from the late 1700s.

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The courthouse is separated by a little square from the Nassau Public Library and Museum, which opens onto Bank Lane. It was the former Nassau Gaol. South of the library, across Shirley Street, are the remains of the Royal Victoria Hotel, which opened the year the American Civil War was launched (1861) and once hosted blockade runners and Confederate spies. A walk down Parliament Street leads to the post office, and philatelists may want to stop in, since some Bahamian stamps are collector’s items. Going south, moving farther away from the water, Elizabeth Avenue takes you to the Queen’s Staircase, one of the major landmarks of Nassau, leading to Bennet’s Hill and Fort Fincastle. If you return to Bay Street, you’ll discover the site of the Straw Market, a former emporium where you could buy all sorts of souvenirs; check with local officials for the status of this landmark as its restoration continues in the wake of a fire that gutted it. At the intersection of Charlotte Street is another major shopping emporium, the Nassau International Bazaar. In Nassau, and especially in the rest of The Bahamas, you will seldom, if ever, find street numbers on hotels or other businesses. Sometimes in the more remote places, you won’t even find street names. Get directions before heading somewhere in particular. Of course, you can always ask along the way, as most Bahamians tend to be very helpful.

2 Getting Around BY TAXI You can easily rely on taxis and skip renting a car. The rates for New Providence, including Nassau, are set by the government. Working meters are required in all taxis, although you will also find gypsy cabs without meters. When you get in, the fixed rate is $3, plus 35¢ for each additional .5km (1⁄ 4-mile). Each passenger over two pays an extra $3. Taxis can also be hired at the hourly rate of $45 for a fivepassenger cab. Luggage is carried at a cost of 75¢ per piece, although the first two pieces are transported free. The radio-taxi call number is & 242/323-4555. It’s also easy to get a taxi at the airport or at one of the big hotels.

BY CAR You don’t need to rent a car. It’s a lot easier to rely on taxis when you’re ready to leave the beach and do a little exploring.

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However, if you choose to drive anyway, perhaps for a day of touring the whole island, some of the biggest U.S. car-rental companies maintain branches at the airport, downtown, and on Paradise Island. Avis (& 800/228-0668; www.avis.com) operates at the airport (& 242/377-7121 locally), and also has branches at the cruise-ship docks at Bay Street and Marlborough Street, behind the British Colonial Hilton (& 242/326-6380), and in the Paradise Island Shopping Plaza (& 242/363-2061). Budget Rent-a-Car (& 800/527-0700; https://rent.drivebudget.com/Home.jsp) has a branch at the airport (& 242/377-9000) and another on Paradise Island at the Hurricane Inn SunSpree next to the police station (& 242/363-3095). Dollar Rent-a-Car (& 800/800-4000 or 242/377-7231; www.dollarcar.com) rents at the airport. Hertz (& 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com) has an airport location (& 242/ 377-8684) and is also in downtown Nassau at East Bay Street (& 242/393-2326). Again, we remind you: Drive on the left!

BY JITNEY The least-expensive means of transport is by jitney—medium-size buses that leave from the downtown Nassau area to outposts on New Providence. The fare is 75¢, and exact change is required. They operate daily from 6:30am to 7pm. Some hotels on Paradise Island and Cable Beach run their own free jitney service. Buses to the Cable Beach area leave from the Navy Lion Road depot. Buses to the eastern area depart from the Frederick Street North depot, and buses to the malls leave from Marlborough Street East.

BY BOAT Water-taxis operate daily from 9am to 5:30pm at 20-minute intervals between Paradise Island and Prince George Wharf at a roundtrip cost of $2 per person. There is also ferry service from the end of

Tips On Your Own Sturdy Feet This is the only way to see Old Nassau, unless you rent a horse and carriage. All the major attractions and the principal stores are close enough to walk to. You can even walk to Cable Beach or Paradise Island, although it’s a hike in the hot sun. Confine your walking to the daytime, and beware of pickpockets and purse-snatchers. In the evening, avoid walking the streets of downtown Nassau, where muggings occur.

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Casuarina Drive on Paradise Island across the harbor to Rawson Square for a round-trip fare of $2 per person. The ferry operates daily from 9:30am to 4:15pm, with departures every half-hour from both sides of the harbor.

BY SCOOTER OR BICYCLE Lots of visitors like to rent mopeds to explore the island. Unless you’re an experienced moped rider, stay on quiet roads until you feel at ease. (Don’t start out in all the congestion on Bay St.!) Many hotels have rentals on the premises. If yours doesn’t, try Knowles (& 242/356-0741), outside the British Colonial Hotel, which rents scooters for $50 per day. Included in the rental price are insurance and mandatory helmets for both drivers and passengers.

FAST FACTS: New Providence American Express The local representative is Destinations, 303 Shirley St., between Charlotte and Parliament streets, Nassau (& 242/322-2931). Hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Climate See “When to Go,” in chapter 2. Dentist Try the dental department of the Princess Margaret Hospital on Sands Road (& 242/322-2861). Doctor For the best service, use a staff member of the Princess Margaret Hospital on Sands Road (& 242/322-2861). Drugstores Try Lowes Pharmacy, Palm Dale (& 242/322-8594), open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 6:30pm. They also have two branches: Harbour Bay Shopping Center (& 242/ 393-4813), open Monday through Saturday 8am to 8:30pm and Sunday from 9am to 5pm; and Town Center Mall (& 242/ 325-6482), open Monday through Saturday 10am to 9pm. Nassau has no late-night pharmacies. Embassies & Consulates See “Fast Facts: The Bahamas,” in chapter 2. Emergencies For any major emergency, call & 911. Eyeglass Repair The Optique Shoppe, 22 Parliament St. at the corner of Shirley Street (& 242/322-3910), is convenient to the center of Nassau. Hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm and on Saturday from 9am to noon.

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Hospitals The government-operated Princess Margaret Hospital on Sands Road (& 242/322-2861) is one of the major hospitals in The Bahamas. The privately owned Doctors Hospital, 1 Collins Ave. (& 242/322-8411), is the most modern private health care facility in the region. Information See “Visitor Information,” above. Laundry & Dry Cleaning The Laundromat Superwash (& 242/ 323-4018), at the corner of Nassau Street and Boyd Road, offers coin-operated machines; it’s open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In the same building is the New Oriental Dry Cleaner (& 242/323-7249). Another dry cleaner a short drive north of the center of town is the Jiffy Quality Cleaner (& 242/3236771) at the corner of Blue Hill Road and Cordeaux Avenue. Photographic Needs The largest camera store in Nassau is John Bull (& 242/322-3328), on Bay Street a block east of Rawson Square. Police Dial & 911 or & 919. Post Office The Nassau General Post Office, at the top of Parliament Street on East Hill Street (& 242/322-3344), is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm and on Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm. Note that you can buy stamps from most postcard kiosks. Safety Avoid walking in downtown Nassau at night, where there are sometimes robberies and muggings. (Most tourists are never affected, but better safe than sorry.) Cable Beach and Paradise Island are safer places to be in the evening. Taxes There is no sales tax, though there is an 8% hotel tax. Each visitor leaving The Bahamas pays a $22 departure tax.

3 Where to Stay In the hotel descriptions that follow, we’ve listed regular room prices or “rack rates,” but these are simply for ease of comparison. They are likely to be accurate for smaller properties, but you can almost always do better at the larger hotels and resorts. Read the section “Package Deals” in chapter 2 before you book a hotel separately from your airfare, and if you do book yourself, always inquire about honeymoon specials, golf packages, summer weeks, and other discounts. In many cases, too, a travel agent can get you a package deal that would be cheaper than these official rates.

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Hotels add an 8% tax “resort levy” to your rate. Sometimes this is quoted as part of the price; at other times, it’s added to your final bill. When you are quoted a rate, always ask if the tax is included. Many hotels also add a 15% service charge to your bill. Ask about these charges in advance so you won’t be shocked when you receive the final tab. Taxes and service are not included in the rates listed below. We’ll lead off with a selection of hotels within the heart of Nassau, followed by accommodations in Cable Beach. Most visitors prefer to stay at Cable Beach since the resorts here are right on the sand. But it is possible to stay in Nassau and commute to the beaches at Cable Beach or Paradise Island; it’s cheaper but less convenient. Those who prefer the ambience of Old Nassau’s historic district and being near the best shops may decide to stay in town.

NASSAU VERY EXPENSIVE Graycliff Now in a kind of nostalgic decay, Graycliff remains

the grande dame of downtown Nassau hotels even though her tiara is a bit tarnished and her age showing. In spite of its drawbacks, this place still has its devotees, especially among older readers. Originally an 18th-century private home and an example of Georgian colonial architecture, it’s now an intimate inn, with an old-fashioned atmosphere. Even though the inn isn’t on the beach, people who can afford to stay anywhere often choose Graycliff because it epitomizes the old-world style and grace that evokes Nassau back in the days when the Duke and Duchess of Windsor were in residence. Churchill, of course, can no longer be seen paddling around in the swimming pool with a cigar in his mouth, and the Beatles are long gone, but the three-story Graycliff continues without the visiting celebs, who today head for Paradise Island. Beach lovers usually go by taxi to either nearby Goodman’s Bay or to the Western Esplanade Beach, nearly adjacent to Arawak Cay. The bigger British Colonial Hilton is Graycliff ’s main competitor; they both have a rather staid, deliberately unflashy ambience. The historic garden rooms in the main house, are large and individually decorated with antiques, though the better units are the more modern garden rooms. The Yellow Bird, Hibiscus, and Pool cottages are ideal choices, but the most luxurious accommodation of all is the Mandarino Suite, with Asian decor, a king-size bed, an oversize bathroom, and a private balcony overlooking the swimming

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pool. Bathrooms are spacious, with shower-tub combinations deluxe toiletries and robes. W. Hill St. (P.O. Box N-10246), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/688-0076 in the U.S. or 242/322-2796. Fax 242/326-6110. www.graycliff.com. 18 units. Winter $290–$400 double, $400 cottage; off-season $200 double, $310 cottage. AE, MC, V. Bus: 10 or 21A. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; 3 pools; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; room service available 7:30am–11:30pm; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

EXPENSIVE British Colonial Hilton

In the restored British Colonial Hilton, there’s a palpable air of the long-ago days when The Bahamas was firmly within the political and social orbit of Britain. This landmark seven-story hotel has seen its share of ups and downs over the years. Plush and glamorous when it was built in 1900, it burned to the ground in 1920, and was rebuilt 3 years later before deteriorating into a flophouse. Between 1996 and 1999, a Canadian entrepreneur poured $68 million into its restoration. Don’t expect the glitz and glitter of Cable Beach or Paradise Island here—the Hilton is after business travelers rather than the casino crowd. It also lacks the aristocratic credentials of Graycliff (see above). Nonetheless, it’s a dignified and friendly, but rather sedate, hotel with a discreetly upscale decor (no Disney-style themes or gimmicks). Bedrooms are a bit on the small side, but capped with rich crown moldings and accessorized with tile or stone-sheathed bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. The staff, incidentally, is superbly trained and motivated; we’ve found them upbeat and hardworking. There’s a small beach a few steps away, but it’s not very appealing (it’s on the channel separating New Providence from Paradise Island, with no “cleansing” wave action at all). 1 Bay St. (P.O. Box N-7148), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/HILTONS in the U.S. and Canada or 242/322-3301. Fax 242/302-9009. www.hilton.com. 291 units. Winter $239–$299 double, $350–$1,133 suite; off-season $130–$160 double, $299–$800 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 10. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; pool; health club; Jacuzzi; bike rentals; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe.

M O D E R AT E Holiday Inn Junkanoo Beach

Value West of downtown Nassau, this hotel overlooks Junkanoo Beach. Although not as fine as Cable Beach, Junkanoo is also a safe beach with tranquil waters, white sands, and a lot of shells; the hotel offers lounge chairs on the beach but no waiter service for drinks. This place is a good value for those

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who don’t want to pay the higher prices charged by the more deluxe hotels along Cable Beach. All the motel-style bedrooms have a view of either the beach or Nassau Harbour, and they come with extras you don’t always find in a moderately priced choice, such as alarm clocks, two-line phones, and a working desk. All come with wellmaintained bathrooms containing shower-tub combinations. The on-site Bay Street Grille is not reason enough to stay here, although you can dine outside in a tropical courtyard overlooking the pool. The West Coast Bar and Grill is another dining option. W. Bay St. (P.O. Box SS-19055), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/465-4329 or 242/356-0000. Fax 242/323-1408. www.basshotels.com/holiday-inn. 183 units. Winter $154 double, $179 suite; off-season $129 double, $149 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 10 or 17. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; 2 pools; health club; spa; tour desk; shopping arcade; salon; room service available 7am–2am; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe.

INEXPENSIVE Buena Vista Hotel

Although this place really revolves around its restaurant (reviewed in “Where to Dine,” later), it rents a few spacious bedrooms upstairs. It’s a good bargain if you don’t mind the lack of resort-style facilities. The building, with a pale pink facade, started out a century ago as a private home, and stands about 1km (2⁄ 3-mile) west of downtown Nassau. Expect a pastel decor, with a tasteful mix of antiques and reproductions. Each room comes with a small bathroom containing a shower-tub combination; staff might be a bit distracted because of the demands of the busy restaurant downstairs. Delancy and Augusta sts. (P.O. Box N-564), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/322-2811. Fax 242/322-5881. www.buenavista-restaurant.com. 5 units. Mid-Apr to mid-Dec $65 double, $75 triple; mid-Dec to mid-Apr $90 double, $100 triple. AE, MC, V. Bus: 16. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service available for dinner only; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker.

Dillet’s Guest House Value This is New Providence’s only B&B. It is not for everyone, however, as it suffers from some drawbacks; it does not really achieve the quality level of, say, a similarly priced B&B in an American city. Each room has such amenities as cable TV, a ceiling fan, a clock radio, a good bed, and a minibar stocked with soda (no alcohol) and chips. Five of the rooms have full kitchenettes, though the bathrooms are small, each with a shower-tub combination. One of the main drawbacks is that the Chippingham section in which the B&B lies is not entirely safe at night. Dillet’s posts an armed guard outside at night. Reaching the nearest bus

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stop is an unpleasant 7-minute walk, often past roadkill. After you come to the bus stop, it’s still a 5- to 10-minute bus ride to the nearest beach. You can catch the no. 10 or 38 bus to Cable Beach for $1. You can also rent a bike at Dillet’s and tour the area for $15 a day. After a breakfast of freshly baked pastries, you might request an authentic Bahamian dinner that night for around $30 per person; Iris can also arrange a picnic for you to take to the beach. The Guest House now has a Livery car service especially for guests to be picked up at the airport for $25 for two (one way). Dunmore Ave. and Strachan St., Chippingham, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/ 325-1133. Fax 242/325-7183. www.islandeaze.com/dillets. 7 units. Winter $125 double; off-season $100 double. Extra person $35. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. Bus: 10. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, no phone.

El Greco Hotel Across the street from Lighthouse Beach, and a short walk from the shops and restaurants of Bay Street, El Greco is a well-managed bargain choice that attracts many European travelers. The Greek owners and staff genuinely seem to care about their guests—in fact, the two-story hotel seems more like a small European B&B than your typical Bahamian hotel. The midsize rooms aren’t that exciting, but they’re clean and comfortable, with decent beds and small tile bathrooms, containing shower-tub combinations. After an extensive post-hurricane refurbishment in 1999, the bedrooms have a brighter decor—a sort of Mediterranean motif, each with two ceiling fans and carpeted floors. Accommodations are built around a courtyard that contains statues crafted in the Italian baroque style, draped with lots of bougainvillea. There is no on-site restaurant, but you can walk to many places nearby for meals. W. Bay St. (P.O. Box N-4187), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/325-1121. Fax 242/ 325-1124. www.bahamasnet.com. 30 units. Winter $109 double, $150 suite; offseason $89 double, $129 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. Amenities: Bar; pool; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV.

Nassau Harbour Club

Don’t expect lush and sprawling gardens, or much peace and privacy here—this hotel is in the heart of Nassau’s action and is usually overrun in March and early April with college kids on spring break. A compound of two-story pink buildings from the early 1960s arranged like a horseshoe around a concrete terrace, it occupies a bustling strip of land between busy Bay Street and the edge of the channel that separates New Providence from Paradise Island. From your room, you’ll have views of yachts and boats moored at a nearby marina, and there is easy access to the

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shops, bars, and restaurants of downtown Nassau and within the Harbour Bay Shopping Centre, a few steps away. Throughout, it’s down-to-earth and just a bit funky—a huge contrast with the glitter of such megaresorts as the Atlantis. Bedrooms are simple and small but comfortable and equipped with bathrooms containing shower-tub combinations. However, they are a little worn and located near the animated hubbub of the busy bar. E. Bay St. (P.O. Box SS-5755), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/393-0771. Fax 242/ 393-5393. 50 units. Winter $90–$130 double, $140 suite; off-season $80–$110 double, $110 suite. Extra person $25. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 11 or 19. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

Ocean Spray Hotel

This modest four-story corner hotel is a short stroll from the shopping district and across the street from a good beach. Midsize bedrooms have comfortable twin beds, carpeting, and your basic Miami-motel decor. Although furnishings show some wear, they’re clean and reasonably comfortable, though bathrooms are small, each with a shower-tub combination. Students on spring break would be happy here. This hotel is better known for its on-site restaurant and bar, Europe, than it is for its rooms.

W. Bay St. (P.O. Box N-3035), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/322-8032. Fax 242/ 325-5731. www.oceansprayhotel.com. 30 units. Winter $80 double; off-season $70 double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

CABLE BEACH The glittering shoreline of Cable Beach, located west of Nassau, is topped only by Paradise Island (see chapter 4). It has loyal fans, many of whom think Paradise Island is too snobbish. Cable Beach has for years attracted visitors with its broad stretches of beachfront, a wide array of sports facilities, and great nightlife, including casino action. Deluxe or first-class resorts, two of which are all-inclusive, line the shoreline. VERY EXPENSIVE Breezes Bahamas SuperClubs, which competes successfully

with Sandals (see below) in Jamaica, spent $125 million transforming a tired old relic, the Ambassador Beach Hotel, into this all-inclusive resort. The nearby Sandals is more imposing, elegant, stylish, and upscale, with better amenities and views. Rowdier and more raucous, and located on a prime 450m (1,500-ft.) beachfront along Cable Beach, Breezes attracts a more middle-of-the-road crowd; it’s unpretentious and more affordable (though it ain’t exactly cheap, and we

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Moments Junkanoo Festivals No Bahamian celebration is as raucous as the Junkanoo (which is also the name of the music associated with this festival). The special rituals originated during the colonial days of slavery, when African-born newcomers could legally drink and enjoy themselves only on certain strictly predetermined days of the year. In its celebration, Junkanoo closely resembles Carnaval in Rio and Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Its major difference lies in the costumes and the timing (the major Junkanoo celebrations occur the day after Christmas, a reminder of the medieval English celebration of Boxing Day on Dec 26, and New Year’s Day). In the old days, Junkanoo costumes were crafted from crepe paper, often in primary colors, stretched over wire frames. (One sinister offshoot of the celebrations was that the Junkanoo costumes and masks were used to conceal the identity of anyone seeking vengeance on a white or on another slave.) Locals have more money to spend on costumes and Junkanoo festivals today than they did in decades past. Today the finest costumes can cost up to $10,000 and are sometimes sponsored by local bazaars, lotteries, and charity auctions, though everyday folks from all walks of Bahamian life join in, too, usually with their own homemade costumes, many of which are sensual or humorous. The best time and place to observe Junkanoo is New Year’s Day in Nassau, when throngs of cavorting, music-making, and costumed figures prance through the streets. Find yourself a good viewing position on Bay Street. Less elaborate celebrations take place in major towns on the other islands, including Freeport.

think it’s rather overpriced for what it is). This U-shaped beachfront resort has two wings of rooms plus a main clubhouse facing a large pool area. Except between March and May, when no one under 21 is admitted, both couples and single travelers over 16 are accepted here (unlike at Sandals, which accepts only heterosexual couples in love). Everything is included—the room, meals, snacks, unlimited wine (not the finest) with lunch and dinner, even premium brand liquor at the bars, plus activities and airport transfers.

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P.O. Box CB-13049, Cable Beach, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/GO-SUPER or 242/327-5356. Fax 242/327-5155. www.breezes.com. 400 units. Winter $580–$680 double, $780 suite; off-season $430–$540 double, $660 suite. Rates include all meals, drinks, tips, airport transfers, and most activities. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. No children under 16 year-round; no one under 21 Mar–May. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars; 2 pools; 3 tennis courts; health club; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

Radisson Cable Beach Hotel

Kids Right in the middle of Cable Beach (its best asset) this high-rise is connected by a shopping arcade to the Crystal Palace Casino. The nearby Wyndham Nassau Resort is glitzier and has better facilities, but the Radisson is still one of the most desirable choices for families, as it has the best children’s programs in the area, and because many of its bedrooms contain two double beds, suitable for a family of four. The nine-story property has an Aztec-inspired facade of sharp angles and strong horizontal lines, built in a horseshoe-shaped curve around a landscaped beachfront garden. You’ll think of Vegas when you see the rows of fountains in front, the acres of marble sheathing inside, and the four-story lobby with towering windows. Big enough to get lost in, but with plenty of intimate nooks, the hotel offers an almost endless array of things to do. Note, however, that readers frequently complain of staff attitude and slow service at this sprawling resort. Bedrooms are modern and comfortable if rather standard, with big windows that open onto views of the garden or the beach. Units are equipped with one king-size bed or two doubles, along with phones with voice mail, plus tiled combination bathrooms (tub and shower).

W. Bay St. (P.O. Box N-4914), Cable Beach, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/333-3333 or 242/327-6000. Fax 242/327-6987. www.radisson.com. 691 units. Winter $450 double; off-season $390 double; year-round $700–$1,450 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 3 bars; 6 pools; tennis courts; concierge; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

Sandals Royal Bahamian Hotel This is the most upscale Sandals resort in the world. It’s shockingly expensive, though you can often get special promotional rates that make it more reasonable. It originated as a very posh hotel, the Balmoral Beach, in the 1940s. In 1996, the Jamaica-based Sandals chain poured $20 million into renovating and expanding the property, which lies on a sandy beach a short walk west of the more glittery megahotels of Cable Beach. Everywhere, you’ll find manicured gardens, rich cove moldings, hidden courtyards tastefully accentuated with sculptures, and many of the trappings of Edwardian England in the tropics.

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Note that only heterosexual couples—and no children at all—are admitted to this resort. A favorite for honeymoon getaways, Sandals offers well-furnished and often elegant rooms, all classified as suites. Some are in the Manor House, while others are in outlying villas. The villas are preferred because they have romantic, secluded settings and easy access to nearby plunge pools. Some units have Jacuzzis and private pools, and some of the bathrooms are as spacious as many big-city apartments. The bedrooms have thick cove moldings, formal English furniture, and shower-tub combination bathrooms loaded with perfumed soaps and cosmetics. The rooms that face the ocean offer small, curved terraces with ornate iron railings and views of an offshore sand spit, Sandals Key. W. Bay St. (P.O. Box CB-13005), Cable Beach, Nassau,The Bahamas. & 800/SANDALS or 242/327-6400. Fax 242/327-6961. www.sandals.com. 403 units. Winter $4,690–$10,290 per couple for 7 days ($1,340–$2,940 per couple for 2 days); off-season $4,550–$8,540 per couple for 7 days ($1,300–$2,440 per couple for 2 days). Rates include all meals, drinks, and activities. Special promotional rates available. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. Couples only; no children or singles allowed. Amenities: 8 restaurants; 6 bars; 5 pools; 2 tennis courts; health club; spa; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino

This big, flashy, megaresort on the lovely sands of Cable Beach is so vast and all-encompassing that some of its guests never venture into Nassau during their stay on the island. When Carnival Cruise Lines ran it, it was shamelessly glitzy and nicknamed “The Purple Palace,” because of its garish color schemes. But under new Wyndham management, it is more subdued and elegant. It’s a great place for an action-packed vacation or honeymoon, complete with a fine beach of white sands, swaying palm trees, and good snorkeling right offshore. If you have a choice, stay here and not at Radisson’s Cable Beach Hotel (see above) where food, service, and maintenance are not as good. The complex incorporates five high-rise towers, a futuristic central core, and a cluster of gardens and beachfront gazebos—all linked by arcades, underground passages, and mini-pavilions. Guest rooms are spacious and well furnished, and come in several different price brackets ranging from standard island view to deluxe ocean vista, each with private balconies. If you’re a big spender, corner suites with lots of space are the way to go, complete with wraparound balconies and king-sized beds looking out onto the water through floor-to-ceiling glass. Combination bathrooms (shower and tub) most often come with spacious dressing areas and dual basins.

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Aside from a massive casino, the largest in The Bahamas, the complex contains a wide array of dining and drinking facilities. Two of its restaurants, Black Angus Grille for succulent steaks and other American fare, and Sole Mare with a gourmet Italian cuisine, are among the finest in New Providence. Even if you’re not a guest of the hotel, you might want to avail yourself of the drinking and dining options or the casino action here. W. Bay St. (P.O. Box N-8306), Cable Beach, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 800/222-7466 in the U.S. or 242/327-6200. Fax 242/327-6818. www.wyndham.com/hotels/NASBS/ main.wnt. 857 units. Winter $179–$250 double, $250–$500 suite; off-season $119–$139 double, $220–$230 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free self-parking; valet parking $5. Bus: 10. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 3 bars; pool; golf course; 10 tennis courts; health club; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

M O D E R AT E Nassau Beach Hotel

Kids This place has been somewhat overshadowed by the glitzy properties a short walk away, but a crowd of loyal fans—often families—comes every year, enjoying a 900m (3,000-ft.) white-sand beach. Guests here avoid the carnival at such neighboring megaresorts as the Wyndham Nassau Resort. A good value, the Nassau Beach is a conservative, moderately priced choice with a lively but restrained atmosphere. The place has been enhanced by fresh landscaping and touches that include ceiling fans and mahogany, English-inspired furniture. Each of the midsize accommodations contains summery rattan pieces, comfortable beds, and a marble bathroom with a tub and shower combination. On-site are seven restaurants (including the Beef Cellar, which is reviewed under “Where to Dine”), plus entertainment in the evening (including live bands and dancing). It’s also near the Crystal Palace Casino.

P.O. Box N-7756, Cable Beach, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 888/NASSAUB in the U.S., or 242/327-7711. Fax 242/327-8829. www.nassaubeachhotel.com. 400 units. $145–$250 double; $300–$350 1-bedroom suite, $400–$450 2-bedroom suite; $550–$600 2-bedroom penthouse. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 10. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 3 bars; 6 tennis courts; health club; watersports equipment/rentals; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

West Wind II Kids Set on the western edge of Cable Beach’s hotel strip, 9.5km (6 miles) from the center of Nassau, the West Wind II is a cluster of two-story buildings that contain two-bedroom, twobathroom timeshare units, each with a full kitchen (there’s a grocery store nearby). The size and facilities of these units make them ideal for traveling families. These units are available to the public whenever

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they’re not otherwise occupied by investors. All the diversions of the megahotels are close by and easily reached, but in the complex itself, you can enjoy a low-key, quiet atmosphere and privacy. (A masonry wall separates the compound from the traffic of W. Bay St. and the hotels and vacant lots that flank it.) Each unit has a pleasant decor that includes white tiled floors, rattan furniture, bathrooms with shower-tub combinations, and either a balcony or a terrace. Since units are identical, price differences depend on whether the units face the beach, the pool, or the garden. The manicured grounds feature palms, flowering hibiscus shrubs, and seasonal flower beds. Don’t stay here if you expect any of the luxuries or facilities of the nearby Nassau Beach Hotel (see above). West Wind II is more for do-ityourself types. W. Bay St. (P.O. Box CB-11006), Cable Beach, Nassau, The Bahamas. & 866/3695921 or 242/327-7019. Fax 242/327-7529. www.westwindii.com. 54 apts. Nov–Apr $1,490–$1,825 per week for up to 4 people; May–Oct $1,210–$1,400 per week for up to 4 people. MC, V. Bus: 10. Amenities: 2 pools; 2 tennis courts; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, safe.

WEST OF CABLE BEACH Compass Point

Finds Charming, personalized, and casually upscale, this is an alternative to the megahotels of Cable Beach, which lie about 9.5km (6 miles) to the east. It’s part of the Island Records empire of music-industry mogul Chris Blackwell. Think British colonial hip, with guests straight out of Soho (either London or New York) and a smattering of music-industry types. The place isn’t as snobby as Graycliff, but for those who want an intimate inn and like the vibrant Bahamian colors, there is no other place like it on the island. Scattered over .8 hectares (2 acres) of some of the most expensive terrain in The Bahamas, the property lies beside one of the few sandy coves along the island’s northwest coast, about 20 minutes from downtown Nassau and near a great snorkeling beach. The beach is very small, a sandy crescent that virtually disappears at high tide. Each unit is a private, fully detached “hut” or cottage painted in pulsating, vivid colors. Everything larger than a studio has a kitchenette. Designed for privacy, all the units have exposed rafters, high ceilings with fans, and windows facing ocean breezes. Some of the huts are raised on stilts. All the units have been renovated, the furnishings replaced, the bathrooms and kitchens redone, and an airconditioning system installed. The most deluxe accommodations are the two-story cottages, each with a small outdoor kitchen and dining area. The Restaurant at Compass Point is recommended separately in

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“Where to Dine,” later. There’s also a bar that frequently hosts live music. W. Bay St., Gambier, Love Beach, New Providence, The Bahamas. & 800/688-7678 in the U.S., or 242/327-4500. Fax 242/327-3299. www.islandoutpost.com. 19 units. Winter $245 studio double, $280–$310 1-bedroom cottage, $390–$470 2-bedroom cottage; off-season rates 20% lower. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: Western Bus. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool. In room: TV, minibar, coffeemaker, iron/ironing board, safe.

Orange Hill Beach Inn Finds This hotel, set on 1.4 landscaped hillside hectares (31⁄ 2 acres), lies about 13km (8 miles) west of Nassau and 1.5km (1 mile) east of Love Beach, which has great snorkeling. It’s perfect for those who want to escape the crowds and stay in a quieter part of New Providence Island; it’s easy to catch a cab or jitney to Cable Beach or downtown Nassau. The welcoming owners, Judy and Danny Lowe, an Irish-Bahamian partnership, jokingly refer to their operation as “Fawlty Towers Nassau.” Rooms and apartments come in a variety of sizes, although most are small. The bathrooms, likewise, are small but well maintained, each with a shower unit. Each has a balcony or patio, and a few apartments are equipped with kitchenettes. Many of the guests are European, especially in summer. It has been renovated with updated furniture in the rooms, as well as upgrading the bathroom units. W. Bay St., just west of Blake Rd. (P.O. Box N-8583), Nassau, The Bahamas. & 242/ 327-7157. Fax 242/327-5186. www.orangehill.com. 30 units. Winter $119–$130 double, $157 apt; off-season $102–$117 double, $114–$140 apt. MC, V. Free parking. Bus: Western Bus. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

South Ocean Golf, Beach, and Dive Resort Set in an isolated position near the extreme western tip of New Providence, this is the only hotel in this area, which mostly consists of scrubland dotted with some upscale private villas. Centered around a well-known golf course, it’s divided into two distinctly different sections. The larger and older of the two, with 152 rooms, lies across the coastal road from the sea, adjacent to the golf course, with low-rise, comfortable, but not particularly dramatic accommodations. Newer and better are the 111 oceanfront rooms, which seem like an upscale condominium complex built in Bahamian style, with large bathrooms containing showers and whirlpool baths. Clients run the gamut here between young married couples and more sedate older folk. Most are relatively conservative, enjoying golf and the beach, and not minding the resort’s isolation and lack of flashiness. A talented team of social directors keeps a stream of wholesome activities flowing, organizing lots of group activities like volleyball games on the beach.

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P.O. Box N-8191, S. Ocean Rd. Nassau, The Bahamas. & 877/766-2326 or 242/362-4391. Fax 242/362-4810. www.southoceanbahamas.com. 228 units. Winter $165–$300 double; off-season $130–$175 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; 4 tennis courts; 2 pools; watersports equipment/rentals; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

4 Where to Dine NASSAU Nassau restaurants open and close with alarming regularity. Even if reservations aren’t required, it’s a good idea to call first just to see that a place is still functioning. European and American cuisine are relatively easy to find in Nassau. Surprisingly, it used to be difficult to find Bahamian cuisine, but in recent years, more places have begun to offer authentic island fare. VERY EXPENSIVE Buena Vista CONTINENTAL/BAHAMIAN/SEAFOOD

Although it’s not quite up there with Graycliff or Sun And . . ., this is definitely third runner-up in Nassau’s culinary sweepstakes. It’s a block west of Government House (Delancy St. is opposite the cathedral close off St. Francis Xavier, and only a short distance from Bay St.). It opened back in the 1940s in a colonial mansion set on 2 hectares (5 acres) of tropical foliage. Traditional elegance and fine preparations have always characterized this place. You’re likely to be shown to the main dining room, unless you request the cozy and intimate Victoria Room or, even better, the Garden Patio, which has a greenhouse setting and a ceiling skylight. The chef scours Nassau’s markets to collect the freshest and finest ingredients, which he puts together in menus bursting with flavor and full of originality. Look for impromptu daily specials such as breaded veal chop or Long Island duckling. There is not only nouvelle cuisine here but also a respect for tradition. The rack of lamb Provençal is a classic, but you might want to try instead some of the lighter veal dishes. The cream of garlic soup has plenty of flavor but never overpowers. Instead of wildly fanciful desserts, Buena Vista sticks to the classics—say, cherries jubilee or baked Alaska flambé au cognac. Service is deft, efficient, and polite. Calypso coffee finishes the meal off nicely as you listen to soft piano music. Delancy and Meeting sts. & 242/322-2811. Reservations recommended. Main courses $32–$40; fixed-price dinner $45. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7–9:30pm. Bus: Western Bus.

Chez Willie FRENCH/BAHAMIAN Elegant and romantic in aura, Chez Willie is now a hot dinner reservation along Bay Street,

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luring visitors at night. Up to now many patrons had no real reason to visit at night. Jackets are preferred for men, and you can dine alfresco, listening to live piano music. Somehow this place recaptures some of the grandeur of Nassau in its cafe society days. In this relaxing atmosphere, you are likely to meet Willie Armstrong himself, the host. You’ll recognize him by his bow tie with jeweled clip, kissing the hand of female guests. In the courtyard is a fountain and regal statuary. The food is exquisite. Launch into your repast with the stone crab claws with a Dijon mustard sauce or perhaps a fresh Bahamian tuna and crab mousse in a light sauce. The main courses are prepared with first-rate ingredients. Much of it is familiar fare but beautifully prepared, ranging from lobster thermidor to sautéed Dover sole in a tarragon and tomato-laced sauce. We often opt for the broiled seafood platter in a sauce made with fresh herbs. The chef’s special is grouper in puff pastry with crabmeat, served with a coconut cream sauce. Special dinners for two, taking an hour, feature beef Wellington, a delicate chateaubriand, or roast rack of lamb. W. Bay St. & 242/322-5364. Reservations required. Jacket preferred for men. Main courses $30–$48; fixed-price menu for 2 $45 per person. AE, MC, V. Daily 7–10pm.

Graycliff CONTINENTAL Part of the Graycliff hotel, an antiques-filled colonial mansion located opposite Government House, this restaurant is the domain of connoisseur and bon vivant Enrico Garzaroli. The chefs use local Bahamian products whenever available and turn them into an old-fashioned, heavy cuisine that still has a lot of appeal for tradition-minded visitors, many of whom return here year after year. Young diners with more contemporary palates might head elsewhere, though, as the food has fallen off a bit of late. The chefs, neither completely traditional nor regional, produce such dishes as grouper soup in puff pastry, and plump, juicy pheasant cooked with pineapples grown on Eleuthera. Lobster is another specialty, half in beurre blanc and the other sided with a sauce prepared with the head of the lobster. Other standard dishes include escargots, foie gras, and tournedos d’agneau. The pricey wine list is the finest in the country, with more than 175,000 bottles. The collection of Cuban cigars here—almost 90 types—is said to be the most varied in the world. W. Hill St. & 242/322-2796. Reservations required. Jacket advised for men. Lunch main courses $20–$28; dinner main courses $38–$48. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:45pm; daily 7–9:30pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

The Humidor INTERNATIONAL Its theme derives from the growing popularity of cigars, and the way they mix well with

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people, liquors, beer, and food. You’ll find it within a stone outbuilding of the previously recommended hotel, Graycliff, where two dining rooms and a highly accommodating bar area present a large selection of cigars from virtually everywhere. Part of the space is devoted to a factory, where a team of carefully trained “rollers” produced the house brand (Graycliff) of cigars. Drop in just for a drink and a smoke if you wish. Head to either of the two elegantly decorated dining rooms for a meal where patrons often puff away between courses. The cuisine is the kind of hearty fare types like Jackie Gleason or Frank Sinatra enjoyed back in the ’50s—that is, well-prepared and unfussy selections of fresh fish and high-quality meat, even such bistro fare as lobster or crab cakes, stuffed mushroom ravioli and a decent roast lamb with the inevitable mint sauce. Fresh oysters and clams—often washed down by champagne—are savory delights as well. At the Graycliff Hotel, West Hill St. & 242/322-2796. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7–10pm. Bar also Mon–Sat 10pm. Bus: 10 or 21A.

Sun And . . . FRENCH/SEAFOOD Near Fort Montagu, this place seems to have been here forever and can name-drop better than anyplace but Graycliff. Sun And. . . is the classic Nassau restaurant, a citadel of top-notch cuisine and service with a hearty dose of British colonial charm. To get to this hard-to-find place, you pass over a drawbridge between two pools and then enter a Spanishstyle courtyard, complete with fountains. In this fine old Bahamian home, you can order drinks in the patio bar and then dine cozily inside or alfresco around the rock pool. Start with the spicy conch chowder; there’s none better in Nassau. The chef shines with ingeniously prepared dishes such as braised duckling with sweet and sour sauce. Sure, it’s been done before, but it’s prepared ever so well here. The grilled veal chop with portobello mushrooms is another of the more admirably executed dishes, as is the classic roast spring lamb, almost melt-in-your-mouth tender and perfectly seasoned without being overpowered with herbs and garlic. Local foodies always praise Ronny Deryckere’s incomparable soufflés (even better than the Grand Marnier soufflé at Graycliff, and that’s saying a lot). Our favorite is prepared with rum raisins and Black Label Bacardi. More than 100 wines complement the well-thought-out menu. Lake View Rd., off Shirley St. & 242/393-1205. Reservations required. Jacket preferred for men. Main courses $32–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6:30–9:30pm. Closed Aug–Sept. Bus: 10 or 17.

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EXPENSIVE Pink Pearl Café

BAHAMIAN/CONTINENTAL This winning restaurant is set across from the Nassau Yacht Haven Marina in a dark pink colonial building with a wraparound porch. Some of the restaurants nearby, such as the Poop Deck, do lots more business and become a lot more animated, but this place stands in stark contrast, simply because it’s relatively uncrowded and relatively formal, though there is after-hours dancing every Friday and Saturday night. (In Nov 2002, a new club called Ocean Avenue opened here.) The menu mingles Bahamian staples with continental flair. The best examples include creamy conch chowder with chives; angel-hair pasta with crabmeat and fresh cream and green onions; grilled breast of chicken with mango glaze and sweet mango mash; and filet of snapper and plantain with sautéed spinach.

E. Bay St. & 242/394-6413. Reservations recommended. Lunch $14–$17; main courses $18–$30. MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–3pm and 6:30–11pm. Bus: 11 or 19.

M O D E R AT E Café Matisse

INTERNATIONAL/ITALIAN Set directly behind Parliament House, in a beige building that was built a century ago as a private home, this restaurant is on everybody’s short list of downtown Nassau favorites. It serves well-prepared Italian and international cuisine to businesspeople, workers from nearby government offices, and all kinds of deal-makers. There are dining areas within an enclosed courtyard, as well as on two floors of the interior, which is decorated with colorful Matisse prints. It’s run by the sophisticated Bahamian-Italian team of Greg and Gabriella Curry, who prepare menu items that include an enticing cannelloni with lobster sauce; mixed grill of seafood; grilled rack of lamb with grilled tomatoes; a perfect filet mignon in a green pepper sauce; and a zesty curried shrimp with rice. There are also meal-size pizzas.

Bank Lane at Bay St., just north of Parliament Sq. & 242/356-7012. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $13–$24; dinner main courses $17–$30. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–10pm. Bus: 17 and 21.

East Villa Restaurant and Lounge CHINESE/CONTINENTAL You might imagine yourself in Hong Kong during the 1980s in this well-designed modern house across the road from the headquarters of the Nassau Yacht Club. It’s somewhat upscale, sometimes attracting rich Florida yachters to its dimly lit precincts, where aquariums bubble in a simple but tasteful contemporary setting. Zesty Szechwan

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flavors appear on the menu, but there are less spicy Cantonese alternatives, including sweet-and-sour chicken and steamed vegetables with cashews and water chestnuts. Lobster tail in the spicy Chinese style is one of our favorites. Dishes can be ordered mild, medium, or zesty hot. E. Bay St. & 242/393-3377. Reservations required. Lunch $7.50–$14; main courses $8.75–$30. AE, MC, V. Sun–Fri noon–3pm and daily 6–11pm. Bus: 11 or 19.

Europe GERMAN/CONTINENTAL Attached to an inexpensive hotel, Europe offers the best German specialties in Nassau. Admittedly, that may not be the kind of food you came to Nassau for, and it’s a little heavy for the tropics; but the dishes are properly rendered and politely served, and the price is fair. This is where you go when you think you can’t stare another grouper or conch in the face. Robust flavors have traveled across the ocean rather well—at least the horde of German visitors on our last visit agreed. When the waiter suggests hearty soups to begin with, he means it—perhaps lima bean and sausage. Naturally, there is bratwurst and quite good sauerbraten. If you don’t opt for the Wiener schnitzel, you might settle for a perfectly done pepper steak cognac. The chef will also prepare two kinds of fondue: bourguignon and cheese. Everybody’s favorite dessert is the meltingly moist German chocolate cake. All right, we said it was heavy. Diet tomorrow. In the Ocean Spray Hotel, W. Bay St. & 242/322-8032. Lunch main courses $8–$21; dinner main courses $12–$22. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 8:30am–11pm. Bus: 10.

Gaylord’s NORTHERN INDIAN

The Indian owners of this restaurant arrived in The Bahamas via Kenya and then England, and they are wryly amused at their success “in bringing India to The Bahamas.” Within a room lined with Indian art and artifacts, you’ll dine on a wide range of savory and zesty Punjabi, tandoori, and curried dishes. Some of the best choices are the lamb selections, although such concessions to local culture as curried or tandooristyle conch have also begun cropping up on the menu. If you don’t know what to order, consider a tandoori mixed platter, which might satisfy two of you with a side dish or two. Any of the korma dishes, which combine lamb, chicken, beef, or vegetables in a creamy curry sauce, are very successful. Takeout meals are also available.

Dowdeswell St. at Bay St. & 242/356-3004. Main courses $14–$30; fixed-price lunch $12–$25; fixed-price dinner $25–$50; vegetarian dinner $23. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and daily 6:30–11pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Green Shutters Restaurant & Pub BAHAMIAN/BRITISH

Almost two centuries old, this landmark British-inspired pub with

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an adjoining restaurant is still a Nassau favorite, patronized by locals and visitors alike. Green Shutters features the best selections of beers in town, and the food is good, too. You can sip a pint of Guinness in the pub and enjoy such grub as steak-and-kidney pie, or else go into the restaurant and peruse the menu. Appetizers are savory, including tomatoes stuffed with minced lobster and mozzarella. Bahamian conch chowder appears daily on the menu, given zest by a tomato base, and Cuban black-bean soup is also a regular feature. Main dishes are very familiar fare—nothing innovative or experimental here. We usually select the grilled Nassau grouper, or else you can go fancy and order the fish stuffed with minced lobster and topped with a spicy sweet glaze. The fresh catch of the day is always sold at market price. Beef lovers get a wide array of offerings, everything from beef Wellington to pan-seared New York sirloin. On Friday and Saturday nights a calypso band entertains. 48 Parliament St., off Bay St. & 242/322-3701. Reservations recommended in restaurant. Main courses $15–$31; pub platters $8.95–$23. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight.

Montagu Gardens STEAKS/SEAFOOD/CONTINENTAL

At the edge of Lake Waterloo, this restaurant is installed in an old mansion at the eastern end of Bay Street. The dining room is in a courtyard garden. The chefs get some of the best seafood and beef on the island, and they are especially noted for their Angus beef, which they carve into succulent T-bones, filet mignons, and rib-eyes, all prepared to order. In addition, they also offer baby back ribs and, on most occasions, a perfectly seasoned and cooked rack of lamb. The stuffed lobster tail is a mite ordinary, but they do wonders with that old Bahamian standby, grouper, and also serve some moist and well-seasoned dolphinfish. If you eat too much here, you can dance the night away (and the calories) at the adjoining Club Waterloo.

E. Bay St. & 242/394-6347. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $10–$20; dinner main courses $15–$40. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm and 6–10pm.

Poop Deck BAHAMIAN/SEAFOOD This is a favorite with

yachters and others who find a perch on the second-floor, open-air terrace, which overlooks the harbor and Paradise Island. If you like your dining with a view, there is no better place in the heart of Nassau. At lunch, you can order conch chowder (perfectly seasoned) or some juicy beef burgers. The waiters are friendly, the crowd is convivial, and the festivities continue into the evening with lots of drinking and good cheer. Native grouper fingers served with peas ’n’ rice is the Bahamian

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soul food dish on the menu. Two of the best seafood selections are the fresh lobster and the stuffed mushrooms with crabmeat. The creamy homemade lasagna with crisp garlic bread is another fine choice. Nassau Yacht Haven Marina, E. Bay St. & 242/393-8175. Lunch $10–$30; main courses $15–$42. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–4:15pm and 5–10:15pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Shoal Restaurant and Lounge BAHAMIAN Many of our good friends in Nassau swear that this is the best joint for authentic local food. We’re not entirely convinced this is true, but we rank it near the top. The place is a beehive of activity on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of Nassau shows up for the chef’s specialty, boiled fish and johnnycake. This may or may not be your fantasy, but if you’re Bahamian, it is like pot liquor and turnip greens with cornbread to a Southerner. Far removed from the well-trodden tourist path, this restaurant is a real local favorite. After all, where else can you get a good bowl of okra soup these days? Naturally, conch chowder is the favorite opener. Many diners follow the chowder with more conch, “cracked” this time. But you can also order more unusual dishes such as Bahamian-style mutton using native spices and herbs. The seafood platter, with lobster, shrimp, and fried grouper, is more international in appeal. Peas ’n’ rice accompanies everything. The restaurant even offers to transport you to and from the restaurant from your hotel free of charge. Nassau St. & 242/323-4400. Main courses $9–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE Avery’s Restaurant

There is not a more Finds BAHAMIAN authentic or native dining spot in all of New Providence. Occupying a pink-painted, two-story cinderblock house and set beside the main road passing through Adelaide Village, this is the hamlet’s prominent bar and restaurant. Avery Ferguson, the owner, is likely to be tending her own bar or taking orders at the time of your arrival. Menu items focus on fresh seafood and imported meat items such as pork chops and steaks. Snapper and grouper are likely to be available either fried, grilled, or smothered (stewed) with onions, spices, and tomatoes. No one here will mind if you opt for a drink or two at any hour of the afternoon. The local brew (Kalik) is always available, as is virtually any drink you can think of that’s made with Bahamian rum. Adelaide Rd. & 242/362-1547. Main courses $10–$35. MC, V. Daily noon–midnight.

Bahamian Kitchen

Value Kids BAHAMIAN Next to Trinity Church, this is one of the best places for good Bahamian food at

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modest prices. Down-home dishes, full of local flavor, include lobster Bahamian style, fried red snapper, conch salad, stewed fish, curried chicken, okra soup, and pea soup and dumplings. Most dishes are served with peas ’n’ rice. You can order such old-fashioned Bahamian fare as stewed fish and corned beef and grits, all served with johnnycake. If you’d like to introduce your kids to Bahamian cuisine, this is an ideal choice. There’s takeout service if you’re planning a picnic. Trinity Place, off Market St. & 242/325-0702. Lunch $6–$13; main courses $11–$32. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Café Skans

Value INTERNATIONAL This is a straightforward, Formica-clad diner with an open kitchen, offering flavorful food that’s served without fanfare in generous portions. It’s next door to the Straw Market site, attracting local residents and office workers from the government buildings nearby. Menu items include Bahamian fried or barbecued chicken; bean soup with dumplings; souvlakia or gyros in pita bread; and burgers, steaks, and various kinds of seafood platters. This is where workaday Nassau comes for breakfast.

W. Bay St., adjacent to the Straw Market. & 242/322-2486. Reservations not accepted. Breakfast $3–$9.50; sandwiches $5.95–$9.95; main-course platters $5.95–$15. MC, V. Daily 8am–5pm.

Conch Fritters Bar & Grill BAHAMIAN/INTERNATIONAL A true local hangout with real island atmosphere, this light-hearted restaurant changes its focus several times throughout the day. In the morning, folks stop in for a quick breakfast before heading off to work in downtown Nassau. Lunches and dinners are high-volume, high-turnover affairs mitigated only by attentive staff who seem genuinely concerned about the well-being of their guests. Live music is presented every day except Monday from 7pm until closing, when the place transforms again into something of a singles bar. Food choices are rather standard but still quite good, including cracked conch, fried shrimp, grilled salmon, six different versions of chicken, blackened rib-eye steak, burgers, and sandwiches. Specialty drinks from the active bar include a Goombay Smash. Marlborough St. (across from the British Colonial Hilton). & 242/323-8801. Burgers, sandwiches, and platters $9.95–$36. AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–midnight.

Crocodiles Waterfront Bar & Grill INTERNATIONAL/ BAHAMIAN One of the most appealing, funky bar/restaurants in Nassau lies about a 2-minute walk from the Nassau side of the Paradise Island Bridge, with a view over the water. Set on a deck that’s partially protected with thatched parasols but mostly open to

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the sky and a view of the channel, it’s completely casual. (You’ll recognize the place by the hundreds of stenciled crocodiles happily cavorting on the wall that separates the place from the dense traffic of E. Bay St.) After one of the rum concoctions from the bar, you might get into the swing of things. If you’re hungry, order up cracked or grilled conch, a grilled 10-ounce sirloin steak, teriyakimarinated tuna, grilled lobster tail, Bahamian-style fried chicken, crab cakes, or a standard but creamy lasagna. A particularly good sandwich choice is blackened mahimahi. There’s a lounge on the premises with frequent live entertainment. E. Bay St. & 242/323-3341. Main courses $11–$33. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–5pm and 6–10:30pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Double Dragon CANTONESE/SZECHWAN The chefs hail

from the province of Canton in mainland China, and that’s the inspiration for most of the food here. If you’ve ever really wondered about the differences between Cantonese and Szechwan cuisine, a quick look at the menu here will highlight the differences. Lobster, chicken, or beef, for example, can be prepared Cantonese style, with a mild black-bean or ginger sauce; or in spicier Szechwan formats of red peppers, chilis, and garlic. Honey-garlic chicken and orange-flavored shrimp are always popular and succulent. Overall, this place is a fine choice if you’re eager for a change from grouper and burgers. Bridge Plaza Commons, Mackey St. & 242/393-5718. Main courses $8–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat 4–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Bus: 10 or 17. Value BAHAMIAN/AMERICAN Mama Lyddy’s Place This restaurant occupies the homestead of a Bahamian matriarch, Lydia Russell, who died in the 1980s and never had a hand in actually establishing the place. That honor belongs to her children, who used their extensive experience at a neighboring takeout place (The Palm Tree Restaurant; & 242/322-4201) to re-create a sense of wholesomeness and The Bahamas the way it used to be. This place is set within a white-and-tangerine-colored stucco house in the heart of Nassau. Inside, you’ll find lots of exposed wood, a color scheme of hot pink and black, and lots of local paintings inspired by Junkanoo. Menu items are as down-home as you can get (cracked conch, baked pork chops, fried or steamed grouper, minced or broiled lobster, and baked chicken) and are served with two of at least seven side dishes like potato salad, creamed corn, beets, coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, peas ’n’ rice, or fried plantain.

Corner of Market St. at Cockburn St. & 242/328-6849. Main courses $7–$16. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 7:30am–6pm; Sun 8am–2pm. Bus: 18.

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CABLE BEACH VERY EXPENSIVE The Black Angus Grille

INTERNATIONAL/STEAKS/ SEAFOOD This is your best bet for dining if you’re testing your luck at the Crystal Palace Casino nearby (and you may need to win to pay the hefty bill here). The Rotisserie in the Sheraton Grand Resort Paradise Island has the edge and is also more reasonably priced, but this is a close runner-up. Serving some of the best beef and steaks along Cable Beach, it’s the favorite of hundreds of casinogoers. Set one floor above the gambling tables, it has a boldly geometric decor of brightly colored tilework and comfortable banquettes. Although steaks are frozen and flown in from the mainland, they are well prepared—succulent, juicy, and cooked to your specifications. The filet mignon is especially delectable, although the T-bone always seems to have more flavor. Prime rib is a nightly feature. The kitchen also prepares a number of sumptuous seafood platters, and Bahamian lobster tails here are fresh and flavorful.

In the Wyndham Nassau Resort and Crystal Palace Casino, W. Bay St. & 242/ 327-6200. Reservations recommended. Main courses $28–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–11pm (hours may vary, call in advance). Bus: 10.

Sole Mare

NORTHERN ITALIAN This is our top choice for elegant dining along Cable Beach, and it also serves the best Northern Italian cuisine along the beach strip. The chefs are well trained and inventive. A filet of whatever fresh fish is available that day appears on the menu and is the keynote of many a delectable meal here. Many of the other ingredients have to be imported from the mainland, but the chefs still work their magic with them. Our lobster tail stuffed with crabmeat was a splendid choice, as was our dining partner’s veal scaloppine sautéed with fresh mushrooms. Veal also appears rather delectably sautéed with endive, a dish you might enjoy in an upmarket tavern in Northern Italy. The dessert soufflés are hardly the equal of those served at Sun And . . ., but they’re still excellent, especially when served with a vanilla sauce.

In the Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino, W. Bay St. & 242/ 327-6200. Reservations required. Main courses $17–$39. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Sat 6–11pm (hours may vary, call ahead). Bus: 10.

EXPENSIVE Androsia Finds STEAKS/SEAFOOD

The location in a shopping plaza is not the most romantic on New Providence Island, but this place turns out some of the finest steak and seafood in or

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around Nassau. Menu items would be familiar to Eisenhower were he to return; succulent meats and fresh food are used to cook the specialties, including the chef ’s pride, a pepper steak Café de Paris style. This New York sirloin comes with a sauce flavored with cracked peppercorns, cognac, mustard, and cream. Grilled grouper is another specialty, appearing topped with onions, garlic, and sweet green and red peppers. A classic duck a l’orange is also enticing. A nautical ambience predominates. Shoppers Haven Plaza, W. Bay St. & 242/327-7805. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$35. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6:30–10pm.

The Beef Cellar

STEAKS/SEAFOOD If you like steak, look no farther than Cable Beach and its Nassau Beach Hotel. The steaks here are juicy, succulent, and tender—and cooked just as you like. Located downstairs from the hotel’s lobby, within a short walk of the casino at the neighboring Wyndham Nassau Resort, the Beef Cellar features a warmly masculine decor of exposed stone and leather, two-fisted drinks, and tables that have individual charcoal grills for diners who prefer to grill their own steaks. The seafood platters are also superb, including shrimp kebab and grilled salmon in a dill sauce. The prices here are more reasonable than those at the Black Angus Grille in the Wyndham Resort.

In the Nassau Beach Hotel. & 242/327-7711. Main courses $18–$35. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 6–10:30pm. Bus: 10 or 38.

M O D E R AT E Capriccio ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL

Set beside a prominent roundabout, about .5km (1⁄ 4-mile) west of the megahotels of Cable Beach, this restaurant lies within a grandly Italian building with Corinthian columns and an outdoor terrace. Inside, it’s a lot less formal, outfitted like a luncheonette, but with lots of exposed granite, busy espresso machines, and kindly Bahamian staff who have been trained in their understanding of Italian culinary nuance. At lunch you get pretty ordinary fare such as fresh salads, sandwiches, and a few hot platters like cracked conch. But the cooks shine at night, offering dishes such as chicken breast with sage and wine sauce, spaghetti with pesto and pine nuts, and seafood platters. W. Bay St. & 242/327-8547. Reservations recommended. Lunch items $5.95–$17; dinner main courses $9.75–$27. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 5–10pm.

The Poop Deck at Sandy Port INTERNATIONAL/SEAFOOD

This is the largest and most imposing restaurant west of Cable Beach, convenient for the owners of the many upscale villas and

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condos that surround it. It’s set within a pink concrete building that’s highly visible from West Bay Street—but despite its impressive exterior, it’s a bit sterile-looking on the inside. This simple island restaurant evolved from a roughneck bar that occupied this site during the early 1970s. Lunch is usually devoted to well-prepared burgers, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. Dinners are more substantial, featuring filet mignon, “surf-and-turf ” (seafood and steak combo), cracked conch, and fried shrimp caught off the Bahamian Long Island. The house drink is a Bacardi splish-splash, containing Bacardi Select, Nassau Royal Liqueur, pineapple juice, cream, and sugar-cane syrup. Poop Deck Dr., off W. Bay St. & 242/327-DECK. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $10–$19; dinner main courses $15–$60. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–4pm and 4–10:30pm.

INEXPENSIVE Café Johnny Canoe

Kids INTERNATIONAL/BAHAMIAN There’s absolutely nothing stylish about this place (it was originally a Howard Johnson’s), but because of its good value and cheerful staff, it’s almost always filled with satisfied families. Within a yellowpainted interior that’s accented with Junkanoo memorabilia, you can order filling portions of diner-style food with a Bahamian twist: cracked conch and lobster, grilled mahimahi, grouper fingers with tartar sauce, homemade soups, and fried fish. Sandwiches always come with one side order; platters always come with two. The place is named after the legend of a Bahamian slave who escaped in the canoe of a junkanoo band. Friday through Sunday nights between 8 and 10pm, there’s live junkanoo music, accented with goatskin drums and synchronized cowbells.

In the Nassau Beach Hotel, W. Bay St. & 242/327-3373. Breakfast $2.75–$10; salads, sandwiches, and lunch and dinner platters $9.95–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–midnight.

WEST OF CABLE BEACH The Restaurant at Compass Point Finds CALIFORNIAN/ CARIBBEAN/INTERNATIONAL This is one of the best restaurants on New Providence, and the only one to join the stellar ranks of Graycliff and Sun And . . . in years. It’s not as formal as either of those, but instead it has a low-key, casually hip style that attracts lots of entertainment-industry types and local foodies. The dining room is indoor/outdoor, outfitted in island colors; the interior is capped with slowly spinning ceiling fans.

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The cuisine is a combination of California and Caribbean, with many innovative dishes, some of which even show a Thai influence. Lunch offerings include warm grilled-chicken sandwiches, salade niçoise garnished with strips of grilled mahimahi, and tandoori fried calamari and jerk chicken salad. At night, many of the chef ’s dishes exhibit touches of whimsy, as in the case of agnolotti filled with conch (a masterful, original dish), snails in puff pastry, a delectable rack of lamb with a guava-roasted garlic glaze, and grilled or blackened snapper. The risotto with a variety of mushrooms and fresh herbs is the best we’ve sampled on the island. In the Hotel at Compass Point, W. Bay St., Gambier, Love Beach. & 242/327-4500. Reservations required. Lunch main courses $9.75–$22; dinner main courses $19–$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–11:30pm. Value BAHAMIAN/SEAFOOD Travellers’ Rest Set in an isolated spot about 2.5km (11⁄ 2 miles) west of the megahotels of Cable Beach, this restaurant feels far away from it all. Its owners will make you feel like you’re dining on a remote Out Island. Travellers’ Rest is set in a cozy cement-sided house that stands in a grove of sea-grape and palm trees facing the ocean. It was established by Winnipeg-born Joan Hannah in 1972, and since then has fed ordinary as well as famous folks like Stevie Wonder, Gladys Knight, spy novelist Robert Ludlum, Julio Iglesias, Eric Clapton, and Rosa Parks. You can dine outside, but if it’s rainy (highly unlikely), you can go inside the tavern with its small bar decorated with local paintings. Many diners use the white-sand beach across from the restaurant to get here; others pull up in their own boats. In this laid-back atmosphere, you can feast on well-prepared grouper fingers, barbecue ribs, curried chicken, steamed or cracked conch, or minced crawfish, and finish perhaps with guava cake, the best on the island. The conch salad served on the weekends is said to increase virility in men.

W. Bay St., near Gambier (14km/9 miles west of the center of Nassau). & 242/3277633. Lunch main courses $9.50–$24; dinner main courses $13–$30. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10pm. Western Transportation bus to and from Nassau $2 each way.

5 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits One of the great sports centers of the world, Nassau and the islands that surround it are marvelous places for swimming, sunning, snorkeling, scuba diving, boating, water-skiing, and deep-sea fishing, as well as tennis and golf. You can learn more about most of the available activities by calling The Bahamas Sports and Aviation Information Center

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(& 800/32-SPORT or 954/236-9292) from anywhere in the continental United States. Call Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, EST. Or, write the center at 1200 South Pine Island Rd., Suite 750, Plantation, FL 33324.

HITTING THE BEACH Lovely Cable Beach , is the most popular beach on New Providence Island, which offers all sorts of watersports, as well as easy access to shops, casino action, bars, and restaurants. The beach offers 6.5km (4 miles) of soft white sand, and the different types of food, restaurants, snack bars, and watersports offered at the hotels lining the waterfront are incredibly varied. You can arrange snorkeling or scuba diving, order fresh fruit juices or cold beer, or get your hair braided by one of the locals. The beach also functions as a kind of bazaar, with many Bahamians parading up and down, hawking various crafts. You’ll need to hunt for a spot on the strip that’s suitable for you. Waters can be rough and reefy, then calm and clear a little farther along the shore. Cable Beach is far superior to the meager beach in Nassau, the Western Esplanade (also called Junkanoo Beach), which sweeps westward from the British Colonial. But if you’re staying in a Nassau hotel and don’t want to make the trip to Cable Beach, you might use the local beach instead; it has restrooms, changing rooms, and a snack bar. At some point in a visit, even Cable Beach beach buffs like to desert the sands here in favor of Paradise Beach on Paradise Island (see chapter 4). Paradise Beach is even more convenient to residents of Nassau hotels, because all they have to do is walk, drive, or take a boat to nearby Paradise Island. Paradise Beach can be reached by boat from the Prince George Wharf. Round-trip tickets cost $4 per person. It’s also possible to drive to the beach across the Paradise Island Bridge for a toll of $2, or you can walk across for only 25¢. To reach Saunders Beach, where many of the local people go on weekends, take West Bay Street toward Coral Island. This beach lies across from Fort Charlotte. On the north shore, past the Cable Beach Hotel properties, Caves Beach lies some 11km (7 miles) west of Nassau. It stands near Rock Point, right before the turnoff along Blake Road that leads to the airport. Since visitors often don’t know of this place, it’s another good spot to escape the hordes. It’s also a good beach with soft sands. We often head for Old Fort Beach when we want to escape the crowds on weekdays, a 15-minute drive west of the Nassau

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International Airport (take W. Bay St. toward Lyford Cay). This lovely sandy beach opens onto the turquoise waters of Old Fort Bay near the western part of New Providence. The least developed of the island’s beaches, it attracts many homeowners from swanky Lyford Cay nearby. In winter, the beach can be quite windy, but in summer it’s as calm as the Caribbean Sea.

BOAT CRUISES Cruises from the harbors around New Providence Island are offered by a number of operators, with trips ranging from daytime voyages for snorkeling, picnicking, sunning, and swimming, to sunset and moonlight cruises. Barefoot Sailing Cruises, Bay Shore Marina (& 242/393-0820) runs the Wind Dance, which leaves for all-day cruises from this dock, offering many sailing and snorkeling possibilities. This is your best bet if you’re seeking a more romantic cruise and don’t want 100 people aboard. The cruises usually stop at Rose Island, which is a charming, picture-perfect spot, with an uncrowded white sandy beach and palm trees. You can also sail on a ketch, the 16m (54-ft.) Riding High, which is bigger than the 12m (41-ft.) Wind Dance. Cruise options are plentiful, ranging from a half day of sailing, snorkeling, and exploring ($49) to a full day ($69) to private dinner cruises of 3 moonlit hours ($570 for two people). If the cruise becomes a party, $500 is charged for the first two guests, then $60 for each additional person. Flying Cloud, Paradise Island West Dock (& 242/393-1957), features catamaran cruises carrying 50 people on day and sunset trips, or a maximum of 30 for dinner. It’s a good bet for people who want a more intimate cruise and shy away from the heavy volume carried aboard Majestic Tours catamarans (see below). Snorkeling equipment is provided free. A half-day charter costs $45 per person; a 21⁄ 2-hour sunset cruise goes for $45. Bookings are on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday only. Majestic Tours Ltd., Hillside Manor (& 242/322-2606), will book 3-hour cruises on two of the biggest catamarans in the Atlantic, offering views of the water, sun, sand, and outlying reefs. This is the biggest and most professionally run of the cruise boats, and it’s an affordable option; but we find that there are just too many other passengers aboard. The Yellow Bird is suitable for up to 250 passengers. It departs from Prince George’s Dock; ask for the exact departure point when you make your reservation. The cost is $15 per adult, $7.50 for children under 10, and snorkeling equipment is $10 extra.

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The outfitter has also added another boat, the Robinson Crusoe, holding 350 passengers. On Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, there are cruises from 10am to 4:30pm, costing $45 for adults and half price for children 11 and under. Sunset dinner cruises Tuesday and Friday cost $50 per adult, again half price for children.

FISHING May through September are the best months for the oceanic bonito and the blackfin tuna; June and July for blue marlin; and November through May for the amberjack found in reefy areas. Arrangements can be made at any of the big hotels, but unfortunately, there’s a hefty price tag. Prices are usually $350 for a half-day boat rental for parties of two to six or $700 for a full day’s fishing. One of the most reliable companies, Born Free Charters (& 242/ 393-4144), offers a fleet of 3 vessels that can seat six comfortably; they can be rented for a half-day ($400–$600) or a full day ($800–$1,200). Each additional person is charged $50 depending on boat size. Fishing choices are plentiful: You can troll for wahoo, tuna, and marlin in the deep sea, or cast in the shallows for snapper, amberjack, grouper, and yellowtail. Anchoring and bottom-fishing are calmer options. We recommend this charter because they offer so many types of fishing and give you a lot of leeway regarding where you want to fish and how much time you want to spend. Occasionally, a boat owner will configure him or herself and their boat as a venue for deep-sea fishing, and unless you’re dealing with a genuinely experienced guide, your fishing trip may or may not be a success. Two of the most consistently reliable deep-sea fishermen are the father-son team of John and Teddy Pratt, who maintain 11m (35-ft.) and 13m (42-ft.) boats, either of which is available for fullor half-day deep-sea fishing excursions. Both boats dock every night at the island’s largest marina, the 150-slip Nassau Yacht Haven, on East Bay Street (& 242/393-8173), where a member of the staff will direct you toward either of the two boats. Alternatively, you can call & 242/422-0364 to speak to one of the men directly. It takes about 20 minutes of boat travel to reach an offshore point where dolphin and wahoo may or may not be biting, depending on a raft of complicated seasonable factors.

GOLF Some of the best golfing in The Bahamas is found in Nassau. The following courses are open to the public, not just to guests of the hotels that operate the properties.

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Cable Beach Golf Course on West Bay Road, Cable Beach (& 242/327-6000), is a spectacular 18-hole, 7,040-yard, par-72 championship golf course, but it’s not as challenging as the one at the South Ocean Golf Course (see below). The Cable Beach course is under the management of the Radisson Cable Beach Hotel, but it’s often used by guests of the other hotels nearby. Greens fees are $45 for residents of Radisson, $100 for all other players. Carts are included. South Ocean Golf Course on Southwest Bay Road (& 242/362-4391), the best course on New Providence Island and one of the best in The Bahamas, is a 30-minute drive from Nassau on the southwest edge of the island. The course has palm-fringed greens and fairways. Overlooking the ocean, the 6,706-yard beauty has some first-rate holes amid trees, shrubs, ravines, and undulating hills. The 18-hole, USPGA-sanctioned course has a par of 72. The lofty elevation of this course offers panoramic water views, including an area of the Atlantic called Tongue of the Ocean. Golf architect Joe Lee designed the course with four challenging water holes and made very effective use of the rolling terrain. Guests at the South Ocean Golf and Beach Resort next to the course pay $65 for 18 holes, $40 for 9 holes; nonguests are charged $80 for 18 holes, $55 for 9 holes. It’s best to phone ahead in case a golf tournament is scheduled for the day you had planned to play.

HORSEBACK RIDING Happy Trails Stables, Coral Harbour, on the southwest shore (& 242/362-1820), offers a 90-minute horseback trail ride for $95, including free transportation to and from your hotel. Riders must weigh less than 200 pounds. The stables are signposted from the Nassau International Airport, which is 3km (2 miles) away. Children must be 12 or older, and reservations are required, especially during the holiday season.

SNORKELING, SCUBA DIVING & UNDERWATER WALKS There’s great snorkeling off most of the beaches on New Providence, especially Love Beach. Most any of the hotels and resorts will rent or loan you snorkeling equipment. Several of the companies mentioned above under “Boat Cruises” also offer snorkel trips, as does Bahamas Divers, below. See also “Easy Side Trips to Nearby Islands,” later, for additional snorkeling excursions. There are more dive sites around New Providence than you can see in one visit, so we’ve included a few of our favorites. Shark

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Wall is the most intriguing, which is a diving excursion 16km (10 miles) off the coast; others include the Rose Island Reefs, the Southwest Reef, the Razorback, and Booby Rock Reef. All dive outfitters feature one or more of these sites. Bahama Divers, East Bay Street (& 242/393-5644), has packages that range from a half-day of snorkeling at offshore reefs for $30 per person, to a half-day scuba trip with preliminary pool instruction for beginners, for $70 for two tanks or $45 for one tank; other equipment is an additional cost. Half-day excursions for certified divers to deeper outlying reefs, drop-offs, and blue holes can be arranged. Participants receive free transportation from their hotel to the boats. Children must be 12 or older, and reservations are required, especially during the holiday season. Hartley’s Undersea Walk, East Bay Street (& 242/393-8234), offers an exciting and educational experience. They take you out from Nassau Harbour aboard the yacht Pied Piper. On the 31⁄ 2-hour cruise, you’re submerged for about 20 minutes, descending through shallow water until you walk along the ocean bottom through a “garden” of tropical fish, sponges, and other undersea life. As you’re guided through the underwater world, you’ll wear a helmet that allows you to see and breathe with ease. Entire families can go on this safe adventure, which costs $150 (no reduced child’s fare). You don’t even have to be able to swim. Two trips run per day, at 9:30am and 1:30pm, Tuesday through Saturday. Arrive 30 minutes before departures, and make reservations 2 to 3 days in advance. There is free transportation to and from your hotel. Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas, Southwest Bay Street, South Ocean (P.O. Box CB13137, Nassau; & 800/879-9832 in the U.S. or 242/362-4171), is about 10 minutes from top dive sites, including the coral reefs, wrecks, and an underwater airplane structure used in filming James Bond thrillers. The Porpoise Pen Reefs, named for Flipper, and steep sea walls are also on the diving agenda. A two-tank dive in the morning costs $80, or an all-day program goes for $125. All prices for boat dives include tanks, weights, and belts. An open-water certification course starts at $695. Bring along two friends, and the price drops to $395 per person. Escorted boat snorkeling trips cost $40. A special feature is a series of shark-dive experiences priced from $125. In one outing, Caribbean reef sharks swim among the guests. In one dive, called “Shark Arena,” divers kneel down while a dive master feeds the sharks off a long pole.

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Another experience, a “Shark Buoy” in 1,800m (6,000 ft.) of ocean, involves a dive among silky-skinned sharks at about 9m (30 ft.). They swim among the divers while the dive master feeds them. Another popular outing is the Shark Wall dive along a 24m (80-ft.) coral wall, with shark feedings at 15m (50 ft.). The outfitter has generated much excitement with its introduction of yellow “submarines,” actually jet bikes called Scenic Underwater Bubbles. An air-fed bubble covers your head as these self-contained and battery-powered jet bikes propel you through an underwater wonderland. The subs are popular with nondivers, and they’re viewed as safe for kids as well (that is, those older than 12). An underwater armada is escorted along to view the reefs, all for a cost of $95. The whole experience, from pickup at your hotel or cruise ship to return, takes about 3 hours.

6 Seeing the Sights Most of Nassau can be explored on foot, beginning at Rawson Square in the center. Here is where Bahamian fishers unload a variety of produce and fish—crates of mangoes, oranges, tomatoes, and limes, plus lots of crimson-lipped conch. To experience this slice of Bahamian life, go any morning Monday through Saturday before noon.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS Ardastra Gardens The main attraction of the Ardastra Gardens, almost 2 hectares (5 acres) of lush tropical planting about 1.5km (1 mile) west of downtown Nassau near Fort Charlotte, is the parading flock of pink flamingos. The Caribbean flamingo, national bird of The Bahamas, had almost disappeared by the early 1940s but was brought back to significant numbers through the efforts of the National Trust. They now flourish in the rookery on Great Inagua. A flock of these exotic feathered creatures has been trained to march in drill formation, responding to the drillmaster’s commands with long-legged precision and discipline. The Marching Flamingos perform daily at 10:30am, 2:10pm, and 4:10pm. Other exotic wildlife at the gardens include boa constrictors (very tame), kinkajous (honey bears) from Central and South America, green-winged macaws, peacocks and peahens, blue-and-yellow macaws, capuchin monkeys, iguanas, ring-tailed lemurs, red-ruff lemurs, margays, brown-headed tamarins (monkeys), and a crocodile.

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There are also numerous waterfowl to be seen in Swan Lake, including black swans from Australia and several species of wild ducks. Parrot feedings are at 11am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm. You can get a good look at Ardastra’s flora by walking along the signposted paths. Many of the more interesting and exotic trees bear plaques with their names. Chippingham Rd. & 242/323-5806. Admission $12 adults, $6 children 12 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 10.

Seaworld Explorer If you are curious about life below the waves but aren’t a strong swimmer, hop aboard this submarine, which holds about 45 passengers. Tours last 90 minutes and include 55 minutes of actual underwater travel at depths of about 3.5m (12 ft.) below the waves. Big windows allow big views of a protected ecology zone offshore from the Paradise Island Airport. About 20 minutes are devoted to an above-water tour of landmarks on either side of the channel that separates Nassau from Paradise Island. Deveaux St. Docks. & 242/356-2548. Reservations required. Tours $37 adults, $19 children ages 3–12. Tours daily 11:30am year-round; additional departure at 1:30pm Dec–June.

MORE ATTRACTIONS Balcony House The original design of this landmark house is a

transplant of late-18th-century southeast American architecture. The pink, two-story structure is named for its overhanging and much photographed balcony. Restored in the 1990s, the House has been returned to its original design, recapturing a historic period. The mahogany staircase inside was thought to have been salvaged from a wrecked ship in the 1800s. You visit the house on a guided tour. Trinity Place and Market St. & 242/302-2621. Free admission but donation advised. Mon–Wed and Fri 10am–4:30pm; Thurs 10am–1pm.

Blackbeard’s Tower

These crumbling remains of a watchtower are said to have been used by the infamous pirate Edward Teach in the 17th century. The ruins are only mildly interesting—there isn’t much trace of buccaneering. What’s interesting is the view: With a little imagination, you can see Blackbeard peering out from here at unsuspecting ships. Blackbeard also purportedly lived here, but this is hardly well documented.

Yamacraw Hill Rd. (8km/5 miles east of Fort Montagu). No phone. Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Reachable by jitney.

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Botanical Gardens More than 600 species of tropical flora are found in this 18-acre park, located within a former rock quarry near Fort Charlotte. The garden features vine-draped arbors, two freshwater ponds with lilies, water plants, tropical fish, and a small cactus garden. After viewing them, you can take a leisurely walk along one of the trails. Chippingham Rd. & 242/323-5975. Admission $2 adults, $1 children under 12. Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat–Sun 9am–4pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Central Bank of The Bahamas The nerve center that governs the archipelago’s financial transactions is also the venue for a yearround exhibition of paintings that represent some of the emerging new artistic talent of the island. The cornerstone of the building itself was laid by Prince Charles on July 9, 1973, when the country became independent from Britain. His mother in February of 1975 officially inaugurated the bank. Trinity Place and Frederick St. 9:30am–4:30pm.

&

242/322-2193. Free admission. Mon–Fri

Fort Charlotte

Begun in 1787, Fort Charlotte is the largest of Nassau’s three major defenses, built with plenty of dungeons. It used to command the western harbor. Named after King George III’s consort, it was built by Gov. Lord Dunmore, who was also the last royal governor of New York and Virginia. Its 42 cannons never fired a shot, at least not at an invader (only seven cannons remain on site). Within the complex are underground passages and a waxworks, which can be viewed on free tours. Tour guides at the fort are free but are very happy to accept a tip.

Off W. Bay St. on Chippingham Rd. & 242/325-9186. Free admission. Mon–Sat 8am–4pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Fort Fincastle Reached by climbing the Queen’s Staircase, this fort was constructed in 1793 by Lord Dunmore, the royal governor. You can take an elevator ride to the top and walk on the observation floor (a 38m-/126-ft.-high water tower and lighthouse) for a panoramic view of the harbor. The tower is the highest point on New Providence. The so-called bow of this fort is patterned like a paddle-wheel steamer, the kind used on the Mississippi; it was built to defend Nassau against a possible invasion, though no shot was ever fired. Although the ruins of the fort hardly compete with the view, you can walk around on your own. Be wary, however, of the very persistent young men who will try to show you the way here. They’ll

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try to hustle you, but you really don’t need a guide to see some old cannons on your own. Elizabeth Ave. No phone. Free admission to fort; tickets to water tower 50¢. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Fort Montagu

Fort Montagu was built in 1741 and stands guard at the eastern entrance to the harbor of Nassau. It’s the oldest fort on the island. The Americans captured it in 1776 during the War of Independence. Less interesting than Fort Charlotte and Fort Fincastle, the ruins of this place are mainly for fort buffs. Many visitors find the nearby park, with well-maintained lawns and plenty of shade, more interesting than the fort. Several vendors peddle local handcrafts in the park, so you can combine a look at a ruined fort with a shopping expedition if you’re interested.

Eastern Rd. No phone. Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Bus: 10 or 17.

Junkanoo Expo This museum is dedicated to Junkanoo, that colorful, musical, and surreal festival that takes place on December 26 when Nassau explodes into a riot of sounds, festivities, celebrations, and masks. It is the Bahamian equivalent of the famous Mardi Gras in New Orleans. If you can’t visit Nassau for Junkanoo, this exhibition is the next best thing. You can see the lavish costumes and floats, which the revelers use during this annual celebration. The bright colors and costume designs are impressive if for no other reason than the sheer size of the costumes themselves. Some of the costumes are nearly as big as one of the small parade floats, but they are worn and carried by one person. The Expo has been installed in an old customs warehouse at the entrance to the Nassau wharf. The Expo also includes a souvenir boutique with Junkanoo paintings and a variety of Junkanoo handcrafts. Prince George Wharf. & 242/356-2731. Admission $2 adults, 50¢ children 12 and under. Daily 9am–5:30pm.

Pirates of Nassau Kids This museum celebrates the dubious “golden age of piracy” (from 1690–1720). Nassau was once a bustling and robust town where pirates grew rich from plundered gold and other goods robbed at sea. Known as a paradise for pirates, it attracted various rogues and the wild women who flooded into the port to entertain them—for a price, of course. This newly opened museum re-creates those bawdy, lusty days in a series of exhibits illustrating pirate lore. You can walk through the belly of a pirate ship (the Revenge) as you hear “pirates” plan their next attack.

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You can smell the dampness of a dungeon, and you’ll even hear the final prayer of an ill-fated victim before he walks the gangplank. It’s fairly cheesy, but fun for kids. Exhibits also tell the saga of Captain Woodes Rogers, who was sent by the English crown to suppress pirates in The Bahamas and the Caribbean. Marlborough and George sts. & 242/356-3759. Admission $12 adults, $6 children 3–18, free for children 2 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

Pompey Museum

Vendue House was built of cut limestone blocks around 1769. The property served as the island’s commodity market, where palm and coconut oil, lumber, dried fish, hardware, and slaves were bartered and sold. The slavery aspect of the place continued until 1834, when an act of Parliament outlawed the practice throughout the British Empire. Full emancipation was activated in 1838. Named after the leader of a 19th-century slave revolt in the Exumas, the museum houses an exhibition on Bahamian life and culture, including many mementos on what the museum refers to as “the enslavement experience,” 19th-century agriculture and sea trading, and 19th-century Bahamian culture.

At Vendue House, Bay St. at George St. & 242/326-2566. Admission $1 adults, 50¢ children 12 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm; Sat 10am–1pm. Bus: 10 or 17.

ORGANIZED TOURS There’s a lot to see in Nassau, and many tour options to suit your taste and take you through the colorful historic city and outlying sights of interest. Goombay Guided Walking Tours, arranged by the Ministry of Tourism, leave from the Tourist Information Booth on Rawson Square at 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, and 2:30pm daily. Tours last for 1 hour and include descriptions of some of the city’s most venerable buildings, with commentaries on Nassau’s history, customs, and traditions. The hour-long tours require advance reservations, as schedules may vary. The cost is $10, $5 for children under 12. Call & 242/326-9772 to confirm that tours are on schedule. Majestic Tours, Hillside Manor, Cumberland Street, Nassau (& 242/322-2606), offers a number of trips, both night and day, to many sites. A 2-hour city-and-country tour leaves daily at 2pm and goes to all points of interest in Nassau, including the forts, the Queen’s Staircase, the water tower, and the former site of the Straw Market (passing but not entering it). The tour costs $25 per person. An extended city-and-country tour also leaves daily at 2pm and includes the Ardastra Gardens. The charge is $32 per person, half

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price for children 12 and under. Combination tours depart Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday at 10am and combine all the sights you see on the first tour listed above, plus the Retreat Gardens and lunch. It costs $40 per person, half price for children. Many hotels have a Majestic Tours Hospitality Desk in the lobby, for information about these tours, as well as for reservations and tickets. Other hotels can supply brochures and tell you where to sign up.

7 Shopping The major change occurring in Nassau shopping is that it is going more upscale than decades past. Swanky jewelers and a burgeoning fashion scene have appeared. There are still plenty of T-shirts claiming that “It’s Better in The Bahamas,” but in contrast you can also find platinum watches and diamond jewelry. The range of goods is staggering; in the midst of all the junk souvenirs, you’ll find an increasing array of china, crystal, or watches from such names as Bally, Herend, Lalique, Baccarat, and Ferragamo. But can you really save money on prices stateside? The answer is “yes” on some items, “no” on others. To figure on what’s a bargain and what’s not, you’ve got to know the price of everything back in your hometown, turning yourself into a human calculator about prices—well, almost (see below). There are no import duties on 11 categories of luxury goods, including china, crystal, fine linens, jewelry, leather goods, photographic equipment, watches, fragrances, and other merchandise. Antiques, of course, are exempt from import duty worldwide. But even though prices are “duty-free,” you can still end up spending more on an item in The Bahamas than you would back in your hometown. It’s a tricky situation. How much you can take back home depends on your country of origin. For more details, plus Customs requirements for some other countries, refer to “Entry Requirements & Customs,” in chapter 2. The principal shopping areas are Bay Street and its side streets downtown, as well as the shops in the arcades of hotels. Not many street numbers are used along Bay Street; just look for store signs.

ANTIQUES Marlborough Antiques This store carries the type of antiques

you’d expect to find in a shop in London: antique books, antique maps and engravings, English silver (both sterling and plate), and unusual table settings (fish knives and so on). Among the most appealing objects is the store’s collection of antique photographs of the islands.

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Tips To Bargain or Not to Bargain Don’t try to bargain with the salespeople in Nassau stores as you would do with merchants at the local market. The price asked in the shops is the price you must pay, but you won’t be pressed to make a purchase. The salespeople here are courteous and helpful in most cases.

Also displayed are works by Bahamian artists Brent Malone, Davide White, and Maxwell Taylor. Corner of Queen and Marlborough Sts.

& 242/328-0502. ART Kennedy Gallery Although many locals come here for custom framing, the gallery also sells original artwork by well-known Bahamian artists, including limited-edition prints, handcrafts, pottery, and sculpture. Parliament St. & 242/325-7662.

CIGARS Remember, U.S. citizens are prohibited from bringing Cuban cigars back home because of the trade embargo. If you buy them, you’re supposed to enjoy them in The Bahamas. Tropique International Smoke Shop Many cigar aficionados come here to indulge their passion for Cubans, which are handpicked and imported by Bahamian merchants. The staff at this outlet trained in Havana, so they know their cigars. In Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino, W. Bay St. & 242/327-7292.

CRYSTAL, CHINA & GEMS Solomon’s Mines

Evoking the title of a 1950s MGM flick, this is one grand shopping adventure. This flagship store, with many branches, is one of the largest duty-free retailers in either The Bahamas or the Caribbean, a tradition since 1908. Entering the store is like a shopping trip to London or Paris; the amount of merchandise is staggering, from a $50,000 Patek Philippe watch to one of the largest collections of Herend china in the West. Most retail price tags on watches, china, jewelry, crystal, Herend, Baccarat, Ferragamo, Bally, Lalique, and other names are discounted 15% to 30%—and some of the merchandise here isn’t available in the States. There are even such oddities as a stunning collection of African diamonds and some Spanish pieces of eight embedded in

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gold settings. The selection of Italian, French, and American fragrances and skin-care products are the best in the archipelago. W. Bay St. & 242/332-1239. Charlotte and Bay St. & 242/325-7554.

FASHION Barry’s Limited

One of Nassau’s more formal and elegant clothing stores, this shop sells garments made from lamb’s wool and English cashmere. Elegant sportswear (including Korean-made Guayabera shirts) and suits are sold here. Most of the clothes are for men, but women often stop in for a look at the fancy handmade Irish linen handkerchiefs and the stylish cuff links, studs, and other accessories. Bay and George sts. & 242/322-3118. Bonneville Bones The name alone will intrigue, but it hardly describes what’s inside. This is the best men’s store we’ve found in Nassau. You can find everything here, from standard T-shirts and designer jeans to elegant casual clothing, including suits. Bay St.

& 242/328-0804. Cole’s of Nassau This boutique offers the most extensive selection

of designer fashions in Nassau. Women can be outfitted in everything from swimwear to formal gowns, from sportswear to hosiery. Cole’s also sells gift items, sterling-silver designer and costume jewelry, hats, shoes, bags, scarves, and belts. Parliament St. & 242/322-8393. Fendi This is Nassau’s only outlet for the well-crafted Italianinspired accessories endorsed by this famous leather-goods company. With handbags, luggage, shoes, watches, cologne, wallets, and portfolios to choose from, the selection may well solve some of your gift-giving quandaries. Charlotte St. at Bay St. & 242/322-6300. Mademoiselle, Ltd. The store specializes in the kinds of resort wear that looks appropriate at either a tennis club or a cocktail party. It features locally made batik garments by Androsia. Swimwear, sarongs, jeans, and halter tops are the rage here, as are the wonderfully scented soaps and lotions. Their on-site “Body Shop” boutique supplies all the paraphernalia you need for herbal massages and beauty treatments. Bay St. at Frederick St. & 242/322-5130.

HANDICRAFTS Island Tings

Everything inside “Tings” pays homage to Bahamian artisans and their ability to craft worthwhile pieces from humble and sometimes-unlikely materials. Expect a minilibrary of books on the archipelago’s culture and cuisine, as well as sculptures crafted from driftwood and conch shells, utilitarian jewelry, straw

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goods such as baskets, natural sea sponges, wall hangings, and Junkanoo masks made from all-natural traditional materials as well as newfangled versions molded from fiberglass. Bay St., between East St. and Elizabeth Ave. & 242/326-1024.

Sea Grape Boutique This is the finest gift shop on New Provi-

dence, with an inventory of exotic decorative items that you’ll probably find fascinating. It includes jewelry crafted from fossilized coral, sometimes with sharks’ teeth embedded inside, beadwork from Guatemala, Haitian paintings, silver from India, and clothing that’s well-suited to the sometimes-steamy climate of The Bahamas. There’s a second branch of this outfit, Sea Grape Too, in the Radisson Hotel’s Mall, on Cable Beach (& 242/327-5113). W. Bay St. (next to Travelers Restaurant). & 242/327-1308.

JEWELRY Colombian Emeralds

Famous around the Caribbean, this international outlet is not limited to emeralds, although its selection of that stone is the best in The Bahamas. There is an impressive display of diamonds, as well as other precious gems. The gold jewelry here sells for about half the price it does Stateside, and many of the gems are discounted 20% to 30%. Ask about their “cyber-shopping” program. Bay St. & 242/326-1661. John Bull The jewelry department here offers classic selections from Tiffany & Co.; cultured pearls from Mikimoto; the creations of David Yurman, Carrera y Carrera, and Sea Life by Kanbana; Greek and Roman coin jewelry; and Spanish gold and silver pieces. It’s the best name in the business. The store also features a wide selection of watches, cameras, perfumes, cosmetics, leather goods, and accessories. It is one of the best places in The Bahamas to buy a Gucci or Cartier watch. Corner of Bay and Charlotte sts. & 242/322-4253.

MARKETS The Nassau International Bazaar consists of some 30 shops selling international goods in a new arcade. A pleasant place for browsing, the $1.8 million complex sells goods from around the globe. The bazaar runs from Bay Street down to the waterfront (near the Prince George Wharf ). With cobbled alleyways and garreted storefronts, the area looks like a European village. Prince George Plaza, Bay Street, is popular with cruise-ship passengers. Many fine shops (Gucci, for example) are found here. When you get tired of shopping, you can dine at the open-air rooftop restaurant that overlooks Bay Street.

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The Straw Market seems to be on every shopper’s itinerary, and hopefully the government will finish rebuilding it soon (a fall 2001 fire gutted nearly the entire original facility). It may be operating again by the time you read this, though a 2005 reopening seems more likely. Even if it’s not yet up and running, you’ll still find Bahamian craftspeople weaving and pleating straw hats, handbags, dolls, placemats, and other items—including straw shopping bags to hold your purchases—in a temporary site between the waterfront and Bay Street, just east of the British Colonial Hilton. (A warehouse sitting on the 1st dock of Prince George Wharf is being prepared as its new and enlarged home.) Part of the fun here is bargaining with merchants for the lowest price you can get. The market opens Monday through Saturday at 8am, and starts winding down by 3pm.

PERFUMES & COSMETICS Nassau has several good perfume outlets, notably John Bull and Little Switzerland, which also stock a lot of nonperfume merchandise. The Beauty Spot The largest cosmetic shop in The Bahamas, this outlet sells duty-free cosmetics by Lancôme, Chanel, YSL, Elizabeth Arden, Estée Lauder, Clinique, Christian Dior, and Biotherm, among others. It also operates facial salons. Bay and Frederick sts. & 242/322-5930. The Perfume Bar This little gem has exclusive rights to market Boucheron and Sublime in The Bahamas. It also stocks the Clarins line (though not exclusively). Bay St. & 242/322-3785. The Perfume Shop In the heart of Nassau, within walking distance of the cruise ships, the Perfume Shop offers duty-free savings on world-famous perfumes. Treat yourself to a flacon of Eternity, Giorgio, Poison, Lalique, Shalimar, or Chanel. Those are just a few of the scents for women. For men, the selection includes Drakkar Noir, Polo, and Obsession. Corner of Bay and Frederick sts. & 242/322-2375.

8 New Providence After Dark Gone are the days when tuxedo-clad gentlemen and elegantly gowned ladies drank and danced the night away at such famous nightclubs as the Yellow Bird and the Big Bamboo. You can still find dancing, along with limbo and calypso, but for most visitors, the major attraction is gambling. Cultural entertainment in Nassau is limited, however. The chief center for this is the Dundas Center for the Performing Arts, which sometimes stages ballets, plays, or musicals. Call & 242/393-3728 to see if a production is planned at the time of your visit.

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ROLLING THE DICE Note that you also can easily head over to Paradise Island and drop into the massive, spectacular casino in the Atlantis resort. See chapter 4. Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino This dazzling casino—the only one on New Providence Island—is now run by Wyndham Nassau Resort. Although some experienced gamblers claim you get better odds in Vegas, the Crystal Palace stacks up well against the major casinos of the Caribbean. The 3,252-sq.-m (35,000-sq.-ft.) casino is filled with flashing lights, and the gaming room features 750 slot machines, blackjack tables, roulette wheels, craps tables, a baccarat table, and a big six. W. Bay St., Cable Beach.

& 242/327-6200. THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE Club Waterloo

They’ve seen it all over the years at the Club Waterloo, located in an old colonial mansion set beside a narrow saltwater estuary known as Lake Waterloo. To qualify for the $5 cover charge, you can purchase a visitors’ pass from most taxi drivers, which will get you inside the door. If you’re not registered at a hotel, the cover charge is $20 Sunday to Thursday, going up to $30 on Friday and Saturday. But despite these high prices, you’ll get the feeling that very few people actually pay full price: It’s management’s way of screening out the bad drunks. The main bar is open nightly from 8pm to 4am, and the sports bar is open from midnight to 4am. Three other minor bars include the Shooters Bar, where shots go for $2, an open-air pool bar, and a Bacardi Bar, which specializes in its namesake. The crowd tends to be an eclectic mix of locals, Europeans, and American vacationers, both singles and couples.

E. Bay St. & 242/393-7324. Cover $5–$30, including 1 or 2 drinks.

King & Knights This is the only folkloric Bahamian show on New Providence. Its linchpin is Eric Gibson (“King Eric”), a talented musician and calypso artist from Acklins Island. He has functioned as the semiofficial ambassador of Bahamian goodwill, conducting concert tours throughout North America, Europe, and Australia. A musical staple here since the late 1950s, his act includes a half-dozen musicians, four or five dancers, a “calypsonian” who might double as a comedian, and a limbo contortionist. The shows are a little short (only 90 min.), but end with a sequence that emulates the Junkanoo festival. If you opt for a dinner here, you can schedule it for whenever you want, before, during, or after the show. Shows are Tuesday through Saturday at 8:30 and 10:30pm, and

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Sunday through Monday at 8:30pm. In the Nassau Beach Hotel, Cable Beach. & 242/327-5321. Reservations recommended. Cover charge $15–$25, including 1 drink. The Zoo

Set midway between Cable Beach and the western periphery of Nassau, this is the largest and best-known nightspot of its kind on New Providence. It’s housed on two floors of what was once a warehouse, with five bars, an indoor/outdoor restaurant (Zoo Cafe), and a sometimes-crowded dance floor that attracts mainly an under-30 crowd. Each of the five bars has a different theme, including an underwater theme, a jungle theme, and a Gilligan’s Island theme. The sports bar is complete with pool tables and wide-screen broadcasts. The most raucous area of the complex is on the street level, where a young crowd congregates to drink and dance. If you’re looking for a respite from the brouhaha below, climb a flight of stairs to the “VIP Lounge,” which offers stiff drinks and the chance for conversation. Most of the complex is open nightly from 9:30pm to 4am. W. Bay St. at Saunders Beach. & 242/322-7195. Cover $5–$40, some-

times including the 1st drink.

VEGAS-STYLE SHOWS Palace Theater

This 800-seat theater is one of The Bahamas’s major nightlife attractions. With fake palm trees on each side and lots of glitz, it’s an appropriate setting for the Las Vegas–style extravaganzas that are presented on its stage. Two shows are presented every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, at 9pm and midnight. On Thursday and Sunday, only one show is presented, at 8pm. Except during periods of exceptionally heavy demand, the theater is usually closed on Monday. Advance reservations are recommended, especially for shows on Tuesday and Saturday, when many of the seats might be filled with cruise-ship passengers. In the Crystal Palace Casino, W. Bay St., Cable Beach. & 242/327-6200. Admission to show plus dinner in any resort restaurant $59; admission to show with 2 drinks but without dinner $39.

THE BAR SCENE Charlie’s on the Beach/Cocktails 7 Dreams The focus within

this sparsely decorated club is local gossip, calypso and reggae music, and stiff drinks, all of which can combine into a high-energy night out in Nassau. The setting is a simple warehouse-like structure a few blocks west of the British Colonial Hotel, though management warns that during some particularly active weekends (including spring break), the entire venue might move, short-term, to a larger, and as

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yet undetermined, location. Open only Wednesday and Friday to Sunday 9pm to 4:30am. W. Bay St. near Long Wharf Beach. & 242/328-3745. Cover $10–$30.

Crocodiles Waterfront Bar & Grill Look for the hundreds of crocodiles stenciled into the wall that shields this watering hole from busy East Bay Street, and venture into this funky bar for a rum drink. There’s a relaxed vibe on the deck, which offers a bit of shade under thatched parasols. You can order up moderately priced steak, seafood, or sandwiches (this place is reviewed under “Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter). Both the restaurant and bar are open daily 11am to midnight. E. Bay St. (a 2-min. walk from the Nassau side of the Paradise Island Bridge). & 242/323-3341.

The Drop Off

Every harbor town has a rowdy, raucous, and sudsy dive with whiffs of spilled beer and ample doses of iodine from the nearby sea, and in Nassau, this is it. Most of its clients are either local residents, or workers aboard one of the fishing and cargo boats that bob at anchor in nearby Nassau Harbor. The setting is a cavernous room lined with murals of underwater life, all within a cellar that’s usually several degrees cooler than the baking sidewalks outside. There’s live music some evenings after 11pm, and a short list of two-fisted platters that includes grilled or fried snapper or grouper, steaks, burgers, and sandwiches. Call for hours. E. Bay St. at

East St. & 242/322-3444.

Out Island Bar/The Beach Bar

These bars, both within the same hotel, are used primarily by its guests, but both of them are open to all, attracting everybody from newlyweds to those who married when Eisenhower was in office. The more central of the two is the Out Island Bar, set adjacent to the lobby and outfitted in a breezy wicker and rattan theme that goes well with the party-colored drinks that are its specialty. If you want a view, head for the thatch-covered beach bar, set directly on the sands of one of the best beaches in the area. Call for hours. In the Nassau Beach Hotel, Cable Beach.

& 242/327-7711.

4 Paradise Island L

ocated just 180m (600 ft.) off the north shore of Nassau, Paradise Island is a favorite vacation spot for East Coast Americans, who flee their icy winters for the stunning white sands of Paradise Beach. In addition to its gorgeous beaches, the island boasts beautiful foliage, including brilliant red hibiscus and a grove of casuarina trees sweeping down to form a tropical arcade. Now the priciest real estate in The Bahamas, the island once served as a farm for Nassau and was known as Hog Island. Purchased for $294 by William Sayle in the 17th century, it cost A&P grocery chain heir Huntington Hartford $11 million in 1960. He decided to rename the 6.5km- (4-mile-) long sliver of land Paradise before selling out his interests. Long a retreat for millionaires, the island experienced a massive building boom in the 1980s. Its old Bahamian charm is now gone forever, lost to the high-rises, condos, second homes of the wintering wealthy, and gambling casino that have taken over. The centerpiece of Paradise Island is the mammoth Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino, which has become a nightlife mecca and a sightseeing attraction in its own right. Although Paradise Island is treated as a separate entity in this guide, it is actually part of New Providence, to which it is connected by a bridge. (You must fly into Nassau to get to Paradise Island.) You can travel between the two on foot, by boat, or by car. So you have the option of staying in Nassau or Cable Beach and coming over to enjoy the beaches, restaurants, attractions, and casino on Paradise Island. You can also stay on Paradise Island and easily go into Nassau for a day of sightseeing and shopping. So view this section as a companion to chapter 3. Please refer to “Fast Facts: New Providence” in chapter 3 for transportation details, nearby sights, and a wider array of sports and recreation choices.

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1 Orientation ARRIVING When you arrive at the Nassau International Airport (see chapter 3 for information on flying into Nassau), there is no bus service to take you to Paradise Island. Many package deals will provide hotel transfers from the airport. Otherwise, if you’re not renting a car, you’ll need to take a taxi. Taxis in Nassau are metered and take cash only, no credit cards. It will usually cost you $28 to go by cab from the airport to your hotel. The driver will also ask you to pay the one-way $2 bridge toll (this charge will be added onto your metered fare at the end).

VISITOR INFORMATION Paradise Island does not have a tourist office of its own, so refer to the tourist facilities in downtown Nassau (see “Orientation,” at the beginning of chapter 3). The concierge or the guest services staff at your hotel can also give you information about the local attractions.

ISLAND LAYOUT Paradise Island’s finest beaches lie on the Atlantic (northern) coastline; the docks, wharves, and marinas are located on the southern side. Most of the island’s largest and glossiest hotels and restaurants, as well as the famous casino and a lagoon with carefully landscaped borders, lie west and north of the roundabout. The area east of the roundabout is less congested, with only a handful of smaller hotels, a golf course, the Versailles Gardens, the Cloister, the airport, and many of the island’s privately owned villas.

2 Getting Around You don’t need to rent a car. Most visitors walk around Paradise Island’s most densely developed sections and hire a taxi for the occasional longer haul. For information on renting a car, refer to “Getting Around,” at the beginning of chapter 3. The most popular way to reach nearby Nassau is to walk across the toll bridge. Pedestrians pay 25¢. If you want to tour Paradise Island or New Providence by taxi, you can make arrangements with either the taxi driver or the hotel reception desk. Taxis wait at the entrances to all the major hotels. The going hourly rate is about $50 in cars or small vans. If you are without a car and don’t want to take a taxi or walk, you can take a ferry to Nassau. The ferry to Nassau leaves from the dock on Casino Drive every half hour, and the 10-minute ride costs $3

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one-way. Quicker and easier than a taxi, the ferry deposits you right at Bay Street. Daily service is from 9:30am to 4:15pm. Water-taxis also operate between Paradise Island and Prince George Wharf in Nassau. They depart daily from 8:30am to 6pm at 20-minute intervals. Round-trip fare is $6 per person. If you are a guest at one of the properties of Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino, you can take a complimentary tour of the island, leaving Monday and Wednesday through Friday at 2pm. Unlike New Providence, no public buses are allowed on Paradise Island.

3 Where to Stay In the off-season (mid-Apr to mid-Dec), prices are slashed by at least 20%—and perhaps a lot more, though the weather isn’t as ideal. But because Paradise Island’s summer business has increased dramatically, you’ll never see some of the 60% reductions that you might find at a cheaper property in the Greater Nassau area. Paradise Island doesn’t have to lower its rates to attract summer business. For inexpensive accommodations, refer to the recommendations on New Providence Island (see chapter 3). Paradise Island ain’t cheap!

VERY EXPENSIVE Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino

Kids The megaresort of The Bahamas, the Atlantis is massive, opening onto a long stretch of white-sand beach with a sheltered marina. Think Vegas in the tropics, with a fairly interesting ancient mythology theme thrown in, and you’ll get the picture. The advantage is that you’ll never be bored; the downside is that it’s sprawling and the service just can’t keep up with the number of guests here. The Atlantis is a self-contained “water world,” with the Lost Continent of Atlantis as its theme. It’s a great choice for a family vacation, since kids love all the facilities and gimmicks, and the children’s program is outstanding. Singles and young couples who want a lot of action like it, too, though some people find it too over-the-top and impersonal. The Atlantis proudly offers so many sports, dining, and entertainment options that many guests never set foot off the property during their entire vacation. A soaring “Royal Tower”—the tallest building in The Bahamas— is replete with decorative sea horses, winged dragons, and mega-size conch shells sprouting from cornices and rooflines. The casino and

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entertainment complex lie in an area over the watery depths of a lagoon. The best and most plush accommodations are in the Royal Tower. (Rooms in the Royal Tower’s Imperial Club have a personal concierge and upgraded amenities.) But even in the older, less expensive sections, rooms have a comfortable tropical decor. Every unit sports a balcony or terrace with water views, individually controlled air-conditioning, in-room movies, voice mail and modem access, plus roomy bathrooms with tubs and showers. The most deluxe accommodation is the “Bridge Suite,” renting for $25,000 a day and sometimes occupied by Michael Jordan while hosting his celebrity invitational at the on-site golf course. Any old hotel might sport tropical gardens, but the Atlantis goes one better by featuring the world’s largest collection of outdoor open-air marine habitats, each of them aesthetically stunning. A few of these were conceived for snorkelers and swimmers, but most were designed so guests could observe the marine life from catwalks above and from glassed-in underwater viewing tunnels. Even folks who don’t stay here—including thousands of cruise-ship passengers—come to check out these 11 distinctly different exhibition lagoons containing millions of gallons of water and at least 200 species of tropical fish. They include a shark tank, a stingray lagoon, and separate holding tanks for lobsters, piranhas, and underwater exotica. Swimmers can meander along an underwater snorkeling trail (Paradise Lagoon) and explore a five-story, Disney-style replica of a Mayan temple complete with 18m (60-ft.) water slides. The focal point of this extravagance is the massive Paradise Island Casino, the best-designed casino in The Bahamas. There are 13 bars, nightclubs, and lounges, including a cigar bar (see “Paradise Island After Dark,” later in this chapter). There are also 17 restaurants, some reviewed under “Where to Dine,” below; expect to pay a lot to dine in most of them. Casino Dr. (P.O. Box N-4777), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/ATLANTIS in the U.S. or 242/363-3000. Fax 242/363-6300. www.atlantis.com. 2,349 units. Winter $290–$440 double, from $810 suite; off-season $205–$410 double, from $395 suite. Many package deals available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking free, valet parking $5 day. Amenities: 17 restaurants; 18 lounges and clubs; 11 pools; 10 tennis courts; spa; sauna; watersports equipment/rentals; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe.

Ocean Club

Sun International’s Ocean Club is the most exclusive address on Paradise Island, with sky-high prices that match the pampering service (the best in The Bahamas) and refined

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ambience. The white-sand beach that lies adjacent to the hotel is the finest in the Nassau/Paradise Island area. This is also one of the bestdeveloped tennis resorts in The Bahamas. In 1999, Sun International began a major expansion and renovation that was completed in 2000. A favorite honeymoon spot, it’s more upscale than the megahotel Atlantis, which is really a fun family resort. Guests can revel in the casino and nightlife activities of Atlantis nearby, then retire to this more tranquil, secluded, and intimate retreat. The tasteful and spacious rooms are plushly comfortable with king-size beds, gilt-framed mirrors, dark-wood armoires, and one king-size or two double beds. The marble bathrooms in the suites are massive, and each contains a bidet, twin basins, and both a tub and shower. The real heart and soul of the resort lies in the surrounding gardens, which were designed by the island’s former owner, Huntington Hartford. This resort, in fact, was once his private home. Formal gardens surround a French cloister set on 14 hectares (35 acres) of manicured lawns. The 12th-century carvings of the Cloister are visible at the crest of a hill, across a stretch of terraced waterfalls, fountains, a stone gazebo, and rose gardens. Larger-than-life statues dot the vine-covered niches on either side of the gardens. Begin your tour of the gardens at the large swimming pool, which feeds a series of reflecting pools that stretch out toward the cloister. Arguably the best dining on Paradise Island can be found at the resort’s Dune restaurant, creation of culinary legend Jean-Georges Vongerichten. In addition, a pair of fountains illuminates the Courtyard Terrace at night. See “Where to Dine” later in this chapter for a review of both restaurants. Another option is a beachfront restaurant and bar, where you can dine under cover but still in the open air. Ocean Club Dr. (P.O. Box N-4777), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/321-3000 in the U.S., or 242/363-2501. Fax 242/363-2424. www.oceanclub.com. 119 units, 5 private villas. Winter $695–$975 double, $1,250–$1,750 suite, $1,250–$1,350 villa; off-season $400–$645 double, $715–$1,100 suite, $810 villa. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 4 bars; pool; golf course; 9 tennis courts; health club; spa; babysitting; shuttle to casino. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe.

EXPENSIVE Club Land’ or

Across the saltwater canal from Atlantis, these self-sufficient timeshare apartments are in three-story motel-like buildings set in a landscaped garden dotted with shrubs and reflecting pools. Although the club isn’t located on the bay, the beach is a short drive away. There’s a small freshwater swimming pool, as well as a

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walking path beside the canal where guests can take in a little salt air. If you’re itching to try your luck at the casino, you’ll have to drive there or take a taxi. Each of the accommodations includes a separate bedroom, a patio or balcony, and a fully equipped living room. Bathrooms are utilitarian, with showers but no tubs. Some apartments are said to be suitable for four, but we think you’d really have to be into togetherness. The rates depend on the view (garden or water). Facilities include the Blue Lagoon restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” below). Paradise Dr. (P.O. Box SS-6429), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. (Reservations: 7814 Carousel Lane, Suite 200, Richmond, VA 23294; & 800/552-2839 in the U.S.) & 242/363-2400. Fax 242/363-3403. www.clublandor.com. 72 units. Winter $279–$338 apt; off-season $195–$215 apt.AE, DISC, MC,V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool; massage; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, safe.

Club Med Paradise

This all-inclusive resort occupies 8.4 hectares (21 acres) with lush gardens; its two wings of three-story pastel bungalows curve along 5km (3 miles) of white-sand beach. It appeals to visitors who like lots of activities and watersports. In 1996, Club Med began a $30-million renovation project that continued through 1998, turning the hotel into a “Finest Village,” the most deluxe version of the club. The midsize rooms feature a mix of furniture and art from Asia and the Caribbean, and the bathrooms were redone in white marble. They’re small, with twin beds (the norm for Club Meds—but why?), comfortable white-cane furniture, and little else. The theory is that you’re going to be outdoors all day. In the middle of the complex stands a Georgian-style mansion housing public rooms and restaurant facilities. A walk through the landscaped garden brings members harborside and to the main restaurant. The resort accepts children under 12, but there are no special facilities for them. The place is mostly for people without children. It attracts lots of honeymooners and singles in their 30s. The biggest draw is the tennis facilities, which are among the best in The Bahamas.

Casuarina Dr. (P.O. Box N-7137), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/CLUB-MED in the U.S. or 242/363-2640. Fax 242/363-3496. www.clubmed.com. 306 units. Winter $190–$280 per person daily, $1,232–$1,351 per person weekly; off-season $176–$193 per person daily, $1,064–$1,232 per person weekly. Yearly membership $55 per person. Rates include all meals, drinks, tips, airport transfers, and most activities. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool; 18 tennis courts; health club; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort This older, 12-floor property adjacent to the waters of Nassau Harbour opens onto a marina with very little beach, although there is a large swimming pool. It was

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rescued from oblivion in the late 1990s when a Florida-based investment group, Driftwood Ventures, renovated it. This group turned it into an all-inclusive resort, which lies just a short stroll away from the popular Atlantis and all its attractions. Bedrooms are midsize with twins or king-size beds, plus well-maintained private bathrooms with tub and shower combinations. The decor is comfortable, airy and sunny, and outfitted with tropically inspired colors and upholstery. All third-floor rooms and select units on the fourth floor are designated for nonsmokers only. The food is palatable but needs much improvement, and service is very slow, so be duly warned. Harbour Dr. (P.O. Box SS-6249), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/331-6471 in the U.S. or 242/363-2561. Fax 242/363-3803. www.paradiseislandbahama.com. 246 units. Winter $386–$488 double; off-season $342–$422 double. Rates include all meals, drinks, tips, airport transfers, and most activities. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; tennis courts; health club; sauna; watersports equipment/rentals; children’s programs; room service; massage. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe.

Paradise Harbour Club

Set near the eastern tip of Paradise Island, adjacent to a relatively isolated strip of spectacular beachfront, this two- and three-story timeshare complex was built in 1985. Managed by Marriott, it’s more of a self-catering condo complex than a full-fledged resort. Many guests cook at least some meals in their own kitchens and head elsewhere, often to bigger hotels, for restaurants, watersports, gambling, and entertainment. Views from the bedrooms are usually ocean panoramas; overall, the setting is comfortable and, at its best, even cozy. You’ll feel like you have your own Florida apartment, with easy access to the beach. Apartments have two bedrooms, with wicker and rattan furnishings, and luxuries that include double basins in each bathroom, plus a tub and shower. On the premises are both a round and a triangular-shaped swimming pool, one with a simple snack bar that’s open only at lunchtime. The entertainment and casino facilities of the more densely developed sections of Paradise Island are just a short walk away. The major drawback here is the service, which is very laissez-faire.

Garden View Dr. (P.O. Box N-10600), Paradise Island,The Bahamas. & 800/845-5279 in the U.S. or 242/363-2814. Fax 242/363-2130. www.phclub.com. 44 units. Winter $459; off-season $359–$389. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 pools; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, safe. Kids Sheraton Grand Resort Paradise Island Opening onto a 5km (3-mile) stretch of sandy beach, the first Sheraton in either The Bahamas or the Caribbean, this hotel was radically rebuilt and

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renovated to the tune of $10 million after substantial damage during the 1999 hurricanes. This 14-story pink high-rise offers some of the most comfortably renovated bedrooms on Paradise Island. This place is more understated than the Atlantis, a lot cheaper, and more userfriendly and manageable in terms of size and layout. Your kids will be happier with all the spectacular events at the Atlantis, but the Sheraton is a viable runner-up for the family trade. Guests can leave the shelter of the poolside terrace and settle almost immediately onto one of the waterside chaise lounges at the beach. The hotel is within walking distance of the casino, restaurants, and nightlife facilities of the Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino properties. Welcoming drinks are served while you relax on comfortable chairs in the lobby bar amid palm trees and tropical foliage. All the spacious accommodations here are deluxe and tastefully decorated, and equipped with medium-size bathrooms containing tub and shower combos. Many have spacious balconies that afford sweeping water views. Two floors are nonsmoking. Casino Dr. (P.O. Box SS-6307), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/782-9488 in the U.S. or 242/363-3500. Fax 242/363-3500. www.sheratongrand.com. 340 units. Winter $335–$365 double, from $735–$990 suite; off-season $255–$285 double, from $550–$735 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars; pool; 4 tennis courts; health club; watersports equipment/rental; salon; room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe. Kids Sunrise Beach Club and Villas This cluster of Spanishinspired low-rise town houses occupies one of the most desirable stretches of beachfront on Paradise Island. You’ll find it midway between the Sheraton Grand and the Ocean Club, a short walk from the casino and a variety of sports and dining options. Accommodations are clustered within five separate groupings of red-roofed town houses, each with access to the resort’s two swimming pools (one of which has a waterfall) and a simple snack bar. The hotel is usually full of lots of Germans, Swiss, and Austrians, many of whom stay for several weeks, preparing most of their own meals, since units have kitchens. Expect pastel colors, summery-looking furniture, and a private patio or veranda, plus king-size beds and floor-to-ceiling mirrored headboards, as well as average-size bathrooms with tub and shower. This is a good bet for “quieter” families who want a more subdued and relaxed vacation, and who want to avoid the “circus” going on 24 hours at the Atlantis.

P.O. Box SS-6519, Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 242/363-2250. Fax 242/363-2308. www.sunrisebeachvillas.com. 15 units. Winter $315 1-bedroom apt.,

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$551 2-bedroom apt., $859 3-bedroom apt.; off-season $245 1-bedroom apt., $428 2-bedroom apt., $668–$953 3-bedroom apt. for 1–8. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 2 pools; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen.

MODERATE Bay View Village More than 20 kinds of hibiscus and many varieties of bougainvillea beautify this 1.6-hectare (4-acre) condo complex. If you get the right nest here, you’ll find the accommodations better than those at the more expensive Club Land’ or, its major competitor (see above). Although it is near the geographic center of Paradise Island, it’s only a 10-minute walk to either the harbor or the white sands of Cabbage Beach (the complex has no beach of its own). The restaurants, nightlife, and casino of Atlantis are only a few minutes away. We particularly recommend rooms near the center of the resort, because they are closest to the swimming pools and facilities. Each accommodation has its own kitchen with dishwasher, plus a patio or balcony and daily maid service. Some units open onto views of the harbor. A full-time personal cook can be arranged on request. The units come in a wide variety of sizes; the largest can hold up to six. Rates are slightly less for weekly rentals. Penthouse suites contain roof gardens that open onto views of the harbor. Bedrooms come with king-, queen-, or twin-size beds. Bathrooms are medium in size, well maintained, and equipped with tub and shower combos. Bayview Dr. (P.O. Box SS-6308), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/757-1357 in the U.S. and Canada or 242/363-2555. Fax 242/363-2370. 30 units. www.bayview village.com. Winter $205 1-bedroom suite, $290 penthouse, $340 town house, $360–$525 villa; off-season $140 1-bedroom suite, $210 penthouse, $245 town house, $270–$370 villa. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 3 pools; tennis court; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, hair dryer, safe.

Comfort Suites Value A favorite with honeymooners and a good value, this three-story, all-suite hotel is across the street from the Atlantis. If the mammoth Atlantis seems too overpowering, Comfort Suites is a nice alternative. You get the splash and wonder of the Atlantis, but you don’t have to stay there all night or when the cruise-ship crowds descend. Although there are both a pool bar and a restaurant on the premises, guests are granted signing privileges at each of the drinking-and-dining spots, as well as the pool, beach, and sports facilities of the nearby Atlantis. Accommodations are priced by their views, over the island, the pool, or the garden. The medium-size bathrooms have beach towels, and ample vanities. Bedrooms are standard motel size with two double beds or one king. Paradise Island Dr. (P.O. Box SS-6202), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/5174000 or 242/363-3680. Fax 242/363-2588. www.comfortsuites.com/hotel/bs003.

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228 units. Winter $245–$295 double; off-season $185–$235 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; massage; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, fridge, hair dryer, safe, iron/ironing board.

INEXPENSIVE Paradise Harbour Club & Marina

The noteworthy thing about this place is its sense of isolation on heavily developed Paradise Island. Set near its extreme eastern tip, a few steps from the also-recommended Columbus Tavern, it was built in 1991. It’s pale pink, with rambling upper hallways, terra-cotta tile floors, and clean, well-organized bedrooms. If available, opt for one of the topfloor accommodations so you can enjoy the view.

Paradise Island Dr. (P.O. Box SS-5804), Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 800/HOTEL411 in the U.S., or 242/363-2992. Fax 242/363-2840. www.phclub.com. 22 units. $120–$220 double; $180–$300 suite; $250–$360 1-bedroom apt., $350–$550 2-bedroom apt. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; tennis court; Jacuzzi; bike rentals; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

The Pink House This place might remind you of a bedFinds and-breakfast in a verdant corner of England, thanks to its stately nature and the rigorous standards of its owner, Minnie Winn. It was built in the 1920s by Howard Major, the architect who designed many of the mansions of Palm Beach, Florida. Comfortable and commodious, it sports wide wraparound verandas, a brick facade, and a wood-paneled interior. Once part of an estate owned by the heirs to the Sears-Roebuck fortune, it sits on land that’s now owned by Club Med (though neither Ms. Winn nor her house is associated with Club Med in any way). For access, you’ll have to pass by a security guard at the entrance to the fenced-in Club Med Compound. And although Ms. Winn’s establishment doesn’t have any particular sports or entertainment facilities of its own, you can pay a fee between $35 and $50 per person for unlimited daylong access to Club Med’s buffet tables, swimming pools, tennis courts, and watersports facilities. Many guests of Ms. Winn, however, skip Club Med and swim on the beach (a 5-min. stroll across the narrow island), rest on one of the covered verandas where views extend out over the channel between Paradise Island and Nassau, and read in their simple but dignified and slightly worn midsize bedrooms, each with a shower unit. P.O. Box SS-19157, Casuarina Dr., Paradise Island, The Bahamas. & 242/363-3363. Fax 242/469-8102. www.bahamasnet.com/pinkhouse. 4 units. Dec–Apr $120 double; May–Nov $100 double. No credit cards. Amenities: Laundry service. In room: A/C, TV.

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4 Where to Dine Paradise Island offers an array of the most dazzling, and the most expensive, restaurants in The Bahamas. If you’re on a strict budget, cross over the bridge into downtown Nassau, which has far more reasonably priced places to eat. Meals on Paradise Island may be expensive, but they’re often unimaginative. (Surf and turf appears on many a menu.) Unfortunately, you may not get what you pay for. The greatest concentration of restaurants, all near the casino, is owned by Sun International. There are other good places outside this complex, however, including the Courtyard Terrace at the Ocean Club and The Rotisserie at the Sheraton Grand Resort, which is that hotel’s showcase restaurant.

VERY EXPENSIVE Bahamian Club

FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL Overall, this is our favorite restaurant at the Atlantis. With an upscale British colonial-era feel, it’s a big but civilized and clubby spot, with spacious vistas, mirrors, gleaming mahogany, and forest green walls. The excellent food is served in two-fisted portions. Meat is king here, all those old favorites from roasted prime rib to Cornish hen, plus the island’s best T-bone, along with a selection of veal and lamb chops. The retro menu also features the inevitable Dover sole, lobster, and salmon steak. All of these dishes are prepared only with top-quality ingredients imported from the mainland. Appetizers also harken back to the good old days, with fresh jumbo shrimp cocktail, baby spinach salad with a bleu cheese dressing, and onion soup. Side dishes are excellent here, especially the penne with fresh tomato sauce and the roasted shiitake mushrooms. Proper attire required—no jeans or sneakers

In the Atlantis. & 242/363-3000. Reservations required. Main courses $41–$45. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 6–10pm.

Blue Lagoon SEAFOOD Lying across the lagoon from Atlantis, this restaurant is located two floors above the reception area of the Club Land’ or. Come here to escape the glitter and glitz of the casino and the restaurants along Bird Cage Walk. Views of the harbor and Paradise Lake, and music from an island combo, will complement your candlelight meal. Many of the fish dishes, including stone crab claws or the Nassau conch chowder, are excellent. The chef even whips up a good Caesar salad for two. The ubiquitous broiled grouper almandine is on the menu, or try some of the other dishes such as steak au poivre with a brandy sauce, or duck a l’orange.

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Anthony’s Caribbean Grill 6 Bahamian Club 7 Blue Lagoon 3 Café at the Great Hall of Waters 7

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Cabbage Beach

The Cave 8 Columbus Tavern 11 Courtyard Terrace 12 Dune 12

The Cloister

Versailles Gardens

Fathoms 8 Mama Loo’s 5 News Café 1 The Rotisserie 10 Seagrapes Restaurant 8 Villa d'Este 8 Water's Edge 3

Harbour

Paradise Isla

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Bayview Dr.

Nassau

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Ridge Rd.




Dr. Ocean Club

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Eleuthera

Abaco

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Smugglers Beach

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Honeymoon Cove Beach

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CUBA Great Inagua

TURKS AND CAICOS

Paradise Cat Island Island San Salvador Andros Long Island Great Exuma Crooked Island Crooked Island

Grand Bahama

Shell Beach

Paradise Island Golf Club

Snorklers Cove Beach

FLORIDA

Pirate’s Cove

Paradise Island Dining

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Yes, you will probably have had better versions of these dishes elsewhere, but they are competently prepared and served here, even though the meats are shipped in frozen. In the Club Land’ or, Paradise Dr. & 242/363-2400. Reservations required. Main courses $28–$65. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

Courtyard Terrace

CONTINENTAL/BAHAMIAN Okay, so the food isn’t the island’s finest, which it ought to be for these prices. The on-site Dune is better. But when the moon is right, an evening meal here can be heavenly for people who don’t have to watch their wallets. You dine amid palms, flowering shrubs, and a fountain in a flagstone courtyard surrounded by colonial verandas. Live music wafts from one of the upper verandas to the patio below. This isn’t the most glittering dining room, but it’s the most sophisticated. Women should bring some kind of evening wrap in case it becomes chilly. The menu includes a strong showing of the classics: beefsteak tartare, prime sirloin, lobster quiche, and chateaubriand. Such a menu also calls for rack of lamb; though the shrimp Provençal or the calf’s liver lyonnaise, if featured, may have more zest. With candles flickering in the breeze, music floating down, and tables set with Wedgwood china and crisp linen, you might not even mind the slow service.

In the Ocean Club, Ocean Club Dr. & 242/363-3000. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required for men. Main courses $32–$45 (highest price for a Maine lobster; most dishes under $45). AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30–9pm.

Dune

INTERNATIONAL The most sophisticated and cutting-edge restaurant on Paradise Island is in the west wing of the lobby level of the Ocean Club. If you approach the place from the grounds, rather than from the interior of the hotel, you’ll pass by the herb garden from which many of the culinary flavorings are derived. The chefs here invariably select the very finest ingredients, which are then handled with a razor-sharp technique. Every dish has a special something, especially shrimp dusted with orange powder and served with artichokes and arugula. A splendid choice is tuna spring rolls with soybean salsa. Also charming to the palate is a chicken and coconut milk soup served with shiitake cakes. The goat cheese and watermelon salad is an unexpected delight. Filet of grouper—that standard throughout The Bahamas—is at its savory best here when served with a zesty tomato sauce.

In the Ocean Club, Ocean Club Dr. & 242/363-2000, ext. 64739. Reservations required. Lunch main courses $12–$22; dinner main courses $22–$46. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am, noon–3pm, and 6–9:30pm.

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Fathoms SEAFOOD You’ll feel as if you’re dining under the sea in this very dark seafood palace, with menus printed on stainless-steel sheets and an almost-mystical decor. Illuminating its glossy, metallic interior and four enormous plate-glass windows, sunlight filters through the watery aquariums that surround The Dig, Atlantis’s re-creation of an archaeological excavation of the underwater ruins of the Lost Continent. At first you’ll think the best appetizer is a selection of raw seafood in season. But then you’re tempted by the blackened sashimi flavored with red ginger as it passes by. The lobster gazpacho is the best on the island, and you can also dig into a bowl of steamy black mussels flavored with chardonnay, garlic, and tomato. The wood-grilled yellowtail appears perfectly cooked with a wasabi potato mash and caviar, and the grilled Atlantic salmon is made extra inviting with its side dish of Parmesan garlic fries, a first for many diners. Save room for dessert, and make it a light, feathery soufflé—a different one is served every night. In the Atlantis Aquarium. & 242/363-3000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $27–$50. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–11pm.

Five Twins

PACIFIC RIM This is one of the most dramatic, cutting-edge, and upscale restaurants in the Atlantis. It’s all about conspicuous consumption, and is very plush, with a high-tech maritime decor that incorporates lots of wrought iron and tones of metallic silver and gold. Five Twins offers a cigar bar, ventilated well enough to keep nonsmokers content, a satay and sushi bar, and an urban club-style setting with a DJ booth suspended 4.5m (15 ft.) above the dance floor. Menu items fuse Indonesian satay with sushi and touches from California, Thailand, Japan, and other parts of the Pacific Rim. Begin perhaps with the beluga caviar with cucumber refresh or pepper-cured salmon with vegetable tempura. The main courses are a savory kettle of goodies, especially the crispy fried jumbo shrimp or the steamed sea bass with oven-baked chicken given extra flavor by a shrimp truffle sauce. The sweet and spicy lamb is delectable, appearing with red chard, white beets, and fresh spinach.

In the Casino and Entertainment Complex of the Atlantis Resort. & 242/363-3000. Reservations required. Main courses $34–$60. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–10pm, with a sushi and satay bar open daily 6:30–11pm.

Villa d’Este

ITALIAN Paradise Island’s most elegant Italian restaurant offers classic dishes prepared with skill and served with flair. It’s become less oriented to Tuscan dishes and is more Americanized

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Italian now. Italian murals decorate the walls. Main dishes have flair, including pan-fried chicken breast with artichokes and mushrooms in a lemon-laced white-wine sauce, or a whole roasted rack of lamb coated with red-wine sauce and rosemary potatoes. The freshly made fettuccine tomato sauce and basil is almost perfect. The sea bass is quite delectable here, served with a perfect seafood broth. In the Atlantis, Bird Cage Walk, Coral Tower, Casino Dr. & 242/363-3000. Reservations required. Main courses $30–$65. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues 6–10pm.

EXPENSIVE Café at the Great Hall of Waters

Kids INTERNATIONAL This restaurant gives you a splashy look at the mega-resort and water wonderland of Atlantis, even if you’re not a guest of the hotel. Paradise Island has better restaurants, notably Five Twins, but none is this dramatic. You feel like a scuba diver as you peer through gigantic picture windows displaying the illuminated “ruins” of Atlantis. Everywhere you look, rainbow-hued fish swim past stone archaeological remains, and rows of lobsters parade through the sand. With a ceiling that seems miles away, the Café’s multilevel dining areas are located on the lower floor of the Royal Towers. There’s a kids’ menu, and little ones love taking walks along the aquarium walls between courses. In such a setting, the food becomes almost secondary, although it’s quite good. The chef imports topquality ingredients for such dishes as rack of lamb with an arugula pesto. Lobster is a specialty, and you can also order well-prepared versions of smoked salmon with lemon grass and jumbo lump Andros crab cakes. Desserts are uniformly delicious.

Royal Towers, Atlantis Resort. & 242/363-3000. Reservations required. Main courses $21–$38. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 7–11am, noon–2:30pm, and 6–10pm.

Mama Loo’s ASIAN Many people come here just to hang out in the bar, but if you’re in the mood for a good Chinese meal, you’ll be ushered to a table in a dining room with spinning ceiling fans, flaming torches from an overhead chandelier, and lots of potted palms. It evokes Shanghai during the British colonial age. The menu includes dishes from the Szechwan, Cantonese, Polynesian, and Caribbean repertoire. The best dish on the menu is Mama Loo’s stir-fried lobster, beef, and broccoli with ginger. Two specialties we also like are shrimp in spicy chili sauce with a peanut sauce, and deep-fried chicken filets with honey-flavored garlic sauce. In the Coral Tower, Atlantis, Casino Dr. & 242/363-3000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–10pm.

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Value INTERNATIONAL Marketplace Decorated with old vases and terra-cotta tiles, this large buffet-style restaurant is reminiscent of a sprawling market. It serves the best buffet on Paradise Island. You come here to fill up at bargain prices, not to eat meals as good as those at the Pink Pearl. Before you start loading onto your plate, browse past the various cooking stations and do some strategic planning. From fresh fruit to omelets, you can make breakfast as light or as heavy as you want. At lunch and dinner, you’ll find everything from fresh seafood and made-to-order pastas to freshly carved roast beef and lamb. No intimate affair, this place seats some 400 diners. Sit inside or on the patio overlooking a lagoon.

Royal Towers, Atlantis Resort. & 242/363-3000. Full dinners $46. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am, 11:30am–2:30pm, and 5:30–10pm.

The Water’s Edge EURO/MEDITERRANEAN Three 4.5m (15-ft.) waterfalls splash into an artificial lagoon just outside the dining room’s windows. Huge chandeliers illuminate the room, which has views of an open kitchen, where a battalion of chefs work to create such dishes as paella Valencia or grilled salmon with French beans, potatoes, olives, and artichokes. The oak-smoked and spitroasted duckling with figs and braised cabbage may win your hearts. Many guests come here just to sample the pizza and pasta specialties. The pizzas are standard, but some of the pastas have a bit of zest, including penne a l’arrabbiata, with a spicy tomato sauce. The chef pays special attention to the antipasti, which evokes the tangy flavors of the Mediterranean, especially the soup au pistou (vegetables with basil and roasted garlic). Depending on the night, some of these dishes are better than others. The main problem here is that the food has a hard time competing with the ambience. At the Atlantis, Casino Dr. & 242/363-3000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$60. AE, DC, MC, V. Fri–Wed 7:30am–noon and 6–10pm.

MODERATE Blue Marlin

This could be Finds BAHAMIAN/SEAFOOD both your nightclub and dining choice for the evening. With a name like Blue Marlin, you expect and get fish and seafood dishes, although there are other choices as well. The catch always tastes fresh, and it’s well prepared. If you’ve never had that famous Bahamian dish, cracked conch, here is a good place to introduce yourself to it. (Think breaded veal cutlet.) That favorite of the 1950s, lobster thermidor, is still a popular choice here, and the chef always fashions a linguine studded with morsels of fresh seafood.

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Finds Going Native with Conch Just once in your life, you’ve got to sample a Nassau conch salad. The best we could find on the island is at the Sundeck Bar and Grille, at the Sheraton Grand Resort on Casino Drive (& 242/363-3500). The uncooked conch is marinated in Old Sour, a hot pepper sauce, to break down its tissue and to add an extra tangy flavor. It’s served with diced small red or green peppers along with chopped onions. Sundeck chefs make it fresh daily but only on a limited basis. They warn, “When it’s gone, it’s gone.” You’d better go early.

For the meat or poultry fancier, there are tender spare ribs basted with guava and Eleuthera coconut chicken. Each night except Monday, a steel-pan band and limbo show is presented along with a slightly gruesome live glass-eating act. You have a choice of dining inside or out. Hurricane Hole Plaza. & 242/363-2660. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$23. MC, V. Daily 11am to “last customer.”

Columbus Tavern CONTINENTAL/BAHAMIAN Far removed from the glitz and glamour of the casinos, the tavern seems relatively little known, even though Erika and Peter Kugler have been running it for years now. It deserves to be discovered, because it serves good food at reasonable (for Paradise Island) prices. The tavern has the typical nautical decor (don’t come here for the setting), with tables placed both inside and outside overlooking the harbor. The bar is worth a visit in itself, with its long list of tropical drinks. You can go local by starting off with the conch chowder, or opt for cheese-stuffed mushrooms with foie gras. Even though they’re imported frozen, both the chateaubriand and the rack of lamb are flawless. You can also order a decent veal cutlet and a quite good filet of grouper with a tantalizing lobster sauce. Paradise Island Dr. & 242/363-2534. Reservations required for dinner. Lunch main courses $11–$26; dinner main courses $20–$42. MC, V. Daily 5:30–10:30pm. Value ITALIAN Julie’s Ristorante Italiano For moderately priced, down-home Italian cooking, check out this place. The gimmick is that you get to create your own pasta dish, choosing from a wide selection of pastas and sauces. Veal and chicken dishes dominate the menu, and most, especially the chicken parmigiana, are quite acceptable. A house specialty is Bahamian lobster tail with

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shrimp, scallops, and mushrooms topped with Alfredo sauce. You can also order fish, various shrimp dishes, or the ubiquitous grouper, appearing this time decorated with tricolor peppers. In the Sheraton Grand Resort Paradise Island, Casino Dr. & 242/363-2011. Main courses $14–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm.

The Rotisserie

AMERICAN This place competes with the better-known steakhouses on New Providence Island but does it at substantially lower prices. The setting includes lots of masculine dark paneling that’s softened somewhat with a ring of hand-painted pink and red hibiscus borders. Enjoy sea views through the big open windows, or watch what’s going on in the showcase-style glassed-in kitchen. Begin with a grilled chicken salad, conch fritters, or grouper coated with chopped plantain and served with a ginger-flavored butter sauce. Main courses include perfectly prepared roasted rack of lamb, spit-roasted chicken, filet mignon, and either sirloin or porterhouse steaks.

In the Sheraton Grand Resort Paradise Island, Casino Dr. & 242/363-3500. Reservations required. Main courses $18–$33. AE, MC, V. Wed–Mon 6–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE Anthony’s Caribbean Grill AMERICAN/CARIBBEAN Its own-

ers think of this place as an upscale version of Bennigan’s or TGI Fridays. But the decor is thoroughly Caribbean, thanks to psychedelic tropical colors, underwater sea themes, and jaunty maritime decorative touches. A bar dispenses everything from conventional mai tais to embarrassingly oversized, 48-ounce “sparklers”—with a combination of rum, amaretto, vodka, and fruit punch that is about all most serious drinkers can handle. Menu items include burgers, pizzas capped with everything from lobster to jerk chicken, barbecued or fried chicken, ribs with Caribbean barbecue sauce, and several meal-size salads. Paradise Island Shopping Center, at the junction of Paradise and Casino drives. & 242/363-3152. Lunch platters and main courses $5.95–$14; dinner platters and main courses $10.95–$39. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm.

The Cave

Kids BURGERS/SALADS/SANDWICHES This burger-and-salad joint is near the Atlantis’s beach, catering to the bathing-suit and flip-flops crowd, most often families. To reach the restaurant, you pass beneath a simulated rock-sided tunnel illuminated with flaming torches. The selection of ice cream will cool you off in the midafternoon sun.

At the Atlantis, Paradise Dr. & 242/363-3000. Lunch platters $3–$22. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–6pm.

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News Café DELI Low-key and untouristy, this is where you’ll find most of the island’s construction workers, groundskeepers, and hotel staff having breakfast and lunch. They maintain a stack of the day’s newspapers, so you can have something to read as you sip your morning cappuccino or latte. You can also stock up here on sandwiches for your beach picnic. In the Hurricane Hole Shopping Centre, Paradise Island. & 242/363-4684. Reservations not accepted. Pizzas, breakfast, lunch sandwiches, and platters $6–$9. Assorted coffees $2–$3.50. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10:30pm.

Seagrapes Restaurant

Kids INTERNATIONAL Buffet lunches and dinners are the specialty of this pleasantly decorated tropical restaurant. This is the most affordable and family-oriented choice in the Atlantis, offering Cuban, Caribbean, and Cajun dishes. It’s pretty straightforward fare, but you get a lot of food for not a lot of money— a rarity on pricey Paradise Island. The restaurant, which can seat 200 to 300 diners at a time, overlooks the lagoon and has a marketplace look, with buffet offerings displayed in little stalls and stations.

In the Atlantis, Casino Dr. & 242/363-3000. Breakfast and lunch buffet $19; dinner buffet $32. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am, 12:30–3pm, and 6–10pm.

5 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits Visitors interested in something more than lazing on the beaches have only to ask hotel personnel to make the necessary arrangements. Guests at the Atlantis (& 242/363-3000), for example, can have access to a surprising number of diversions without so much as leaving the hotel property. They can splash in private pools; play tennis, Ping-Pong, and shuffleboard; ride the waves; snorkel; or rent Sunfish, Sailfish, jet skis, banana boats, and catamarans from contractors located in kiosks.

HITTING THE BEACH For comments about Paradise Beach, refer to “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 3. Paradise Island has a number of smaller beaches, as well. Cabbage Beach is among these, with broad sands that stretch for at least 3km (2 miles). Casuarinas, palms, and sea grapes border it. It’s likely to be crowded, but you can find a little more elbowroom by walking on to the northwestern stretch of the beach.

FISHING Anglers can fish close to shore for grouper, dolphinfish, red snapper, crabs, even lobster. Farther out, in first-class fishing boats fitted

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with outriggers and fighting chairs, they troll for billfish or giant marlin. The best way to hook up with this pastime is to go to the activities desk of your hotel. All hotels have contacts with local charter operators who take their passengers out for a half or full day of fishing. For other possibilities, refer to “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 3.

GOLF Ocean Club Golf Club on Paradise Island Dr. (& 242/3633925), at the east end of the island, is an 18-hole championship golf course, designed by Tom Weiskopf, and overlooks both the Atlantic Ocean and Nassau Harbour. Attracting every caliber of golfer, the par-72 course is known for its Hole 17, which plays entirely along the scenic Snorkelers Cove. Greens fees, including cart, are $245 per player, and rental clubs and shoes are available. Golfers who want more variety will find two other courses on New Providence Island (see “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” in chapter 3).

SNORKELING & SCUBA DIVING For more scuba sites in the area, see “Snorkeling, Scuba Diving & Underwater Walks,” in chapter 3. Bahamas Divers, Sheraton Grand Resort, Casino Drive (& 242/ 393-8724), is the best all-around center for watersports on the island, specializing in scuba diving and snorkeling. A one-tank dive, all equipment included, costs $60; a two-tank dive goes for $85. Snorkeling reef trips depart daily at 8am and 1pm, costing $35 with all equipment included.

6 Seeing the Sights Most of the big hotels here have activity-packed calendars, especially for that occasional windy, rainy day that comes in winter. Hordes of Americans can be seen taking group lessons in such activities as backgammon, whist, tennis, and cooking and dancing Bahamian style. They’re even taught how to mix tropical drinks, such as a Goombay Smash or a Yellow Bird. But to an increasing degree, hotels such as the Atlantis have configured themselves as destinations in their own right. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino Regardless of where you’re staying—even if it’s at the most remote hotel on New Providence—you’ll want to visit this lavish theme park, hotel,

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restaurant complex, casino, and entertainment center. It’s Paradise Island’s big attraction. You could spend all day here—and all night, too—wandering through the glitzy shopping malls; sampling the international cuisine of the varied restaurants; gambling at the roulette wheels, slot machines, and blackjack tables; or seeing Vegasstyle revues. And once you’re here, don’t even think about leaving without a tour of The Dig, a Disney-style attraction that celebrates the eerie and tragic legend of the lost continent of Atlantis. During the day you can dress casually, but at night you should dress up a bit, especially if you want to try one of the better restaurants. The most crowded time to visit Atlantis is between 9am and 5pm on days when cruise ships are berthed in the nearby harbor. (That’s usually every Tues and Sat 9am–5pm.) The most crowded time to visit the casino is between 8 and 11pm any night of the week. There is no cover to enter: You pay just for what you gamble away (and that could be considerable), eat, and drink. The big shows have hefty cover charges, although some entertainment in the bars is free, except for the price of the liquor. Casino Dr. & 242/363-3000. Free admission. Daily 24 hr.

The Cloister

Located in the Versailles Gardens of the Ocean Club, this 12th-century cloister, originally built by Augustinian monks in southwestern France, was reassembled here stone by stone. Huntington Hartford, the A&P heir, purchased the cloister from the estate of William Randolph Hearst at San Simeon in California. Regrettably, after the newspaper czar originally bought the cloister, it was hastily dismantled in France for shipment to America, but the parts had not been numbered—they all arrived unlabeled on Paradise Island. The reassembly of the complicated monument baffled most conventional methods of construction, until artist and sculptor Jean Castre-Manne set about to reassemble it piece by piece. It took him two years, and what you see today, presumably, bears some similarity to the original. The gardens, which extend over the rise to Nassau Harbour, are filled with tropical flowers and classic statues. Unfortunately, although the monument retains a timeless beauty, recent buildings have encroached on either side, marring Huntington Hartford’s original vision.

Ocean Club, Ocean Club Dr. & 242/363-3000. Free admission. Daily 24 hr.

7 Shopping For serious shopping, you’ll want to cross over the Paradise Island Bridge into Nassau (see chapter 3). However, many of Nassau’s major stores also have shopping outlets on Paradise Island.

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The Shops at the Atlantis, in the Atlantis (& 242/363-3000), is the largest concentration of shops and boutiques on Paradise Island, rivaling anything else in The Bahamas in terms of size, selection, and style. The boutiques are part of the recently rebuilt Crystal Court Arcade within the sprawling Atlantis. Most of them are set adjacent to the resort’s casino, in a well-appointed arcade that meanders between the Royal Tower and the Coral Tower, although a handful, as noted below, are scattered strategically throughout the resort. It’s all very upscale and all about conspicuous consumption, so if you want to do more than browse, bring your platinum card. There are two separate branches of Colombian Emeralds (one in the Crystal Court arcade, another closer to the beach within the Atlantis’s Beach Tower), where the colored gemstones far outnumber the relatively limited selection of diamonds. Other choices include Mademoiselle, with branches in both the Beach Tower and the Coral Tower, where chic but simple clothing for women focuses on festive beach and resort wear. The richest pickings lie within the Crystal Court arcade. Here, 3,252 sq. m (35,000 sq. ft.) of merchandising space features Lalique, France-based purveyor of fine crystal and fashion accessories for men and women; Cartier; Versace, the late designer to the stars (this boutique also has a particularly charming housewares division); Armani, whose clothes make almost any woman look like Michelle Pfeiffer and any man at least a bit thinner; Façonnable, a youthful, sporty designer for young and beautiful club-hoppers; Bulgari, purveyor of the most enviable jewels in the world, as well as watches, giftware, and perfumes; and Gucci and Ferragamo, in case you forgot your dancing shoes. And if you want a bathing suit, Coles of Nassau sells swimwear by Gottex, Pucci, and Fernando Sanchez. Finally, John Bull, known for its Bay Street store in Nassau and as a pioneer seller of watches throughout The Bahamas, also has an interesting assortment of watches, jewelry, and designer accessories at this outlet.

8 Paradise Island After Dark Paradise Island has the best nightlife in The Bahamas, and most of it centers on the Atlantis. The Atlantis Resort’s Casino and Discothèque There’s no other spot in The Bahamas, with the possible exception of the Crystal Palace complex on Cable Beach, with such a wide variety of afterdark attractions, and absolutely nothing that approaches its inspired brand of razzle-dazzle. Even if you stay in Nassau or Cable Beach,

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you’ll want to drop into this artfully decorated, self-contained temple to decadence, even if gambling isn’t really your passion. Love it or hate it, this place is simply a jaw-dropper. The casino is the most lavishly planned, most artfully “themed” casino this side of Las Vegas. The only casino in the world built above a body of water, it was designed as an homage to the lost continent of Atlantis, and it appears to have risen directly from the waters of the lagoon. The gaming area is centered on buildings representing a Temple of the Sun and a Temple of the Moon with a painted replica of the zodiac overhead. Rising from key locations in and around the casino are five of the most elaborate sculptures in the world. Massive and complex, they were crafted by teams of artisans spearheaded by Dale Chihuly, the American-born resident of Venice whose glass-blowing skills are the most celebrated in the world. Other than the decor, the casino’s gaming tables, open daily from 10am to 4am, provide the main attraction in this enormous place; in addition, about a thousand whirring and clanging slot machines operate 24 hours a day. One side of the casino contains Dragons, a disco that manages to attract a few local hipsters as well as guests of the Atlantis. Come here anytime during casino hours for a drink. A sweaty, flirty crowd parties all night on the dance floor. Often, you can catch some of the best live music in The Bahamas, as bands take to the stage that’s cantilevered above the dance floor. Live music begins around 9pm nightly. On Friday and Saturday, there’s a cover charge of $30, payable by anyone not a guest of the Atlantis. Ringing the casino are some 3,252 sq. m (35,000 sq. ft.) of retail shopping space (see “Shopping,” above) and an impressive cluster of hideaway bars and restaurants. Also in the same Atlantis complex, Joker’s Wild (& 242/3633000) is the only real comedy club in The Bahamas, with a talented company of funny people who work hard to make their guests laugh. Show times are Tuesday through Sunday at 9:30pm. At least three comedians will appear on any given night, most of them hailing from The Bahamas, with occasional appearances of performers from London and New York. Midway between the Royal Tower and the Coral Tower.

& 242/363-3000. No cover charge for casino, but cover charges apply to clubs and shows.

THE BAR SCENE Dune Bar

Previously recommended as the top restaurant on Paradise Island, this deluxe dining room is also the setting for the

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island’s most elegant and sophisticated lounge; it’s becoming increasingly popular as a plush, appealing (and permissive) meeting spot for singles. The bar is centered around a translucent white marble bar skillfully illuminated from behind. At the Ocean Club, Ocean Club Dr. & 242/363-2000, ext. 64722.

Oasis Lounge

Some of the best lounge music on Paradise Island is performed here. You can listen to singers, enjoy live piano music, or check out the band playing calypso music nightly in the bar area. It’s open nightly from 5pm to 1am. There’s also a dining area open until 11pm, with main courses costing from $7 to $9 each. At Club

Land’ or. & 242/363-2400.

Plato’s Lounge This is the Atlantis resort’s most romantic bar, a sensual spot where you can escape the din of the slot machines. There’s a glow from dozens of flickering candles set within lavish candelabras, and ocean views through the oversize windows. A pianist sets the mood during cocktail hour and early evening. In the morning, the site doubles as a cafe, serving pastries and snacks. It’s open daily from 6am to 1am. On the lobby level of the Royal Towers, Atlantis Resort. & 242/363-3000.

5 Grand Bahama (Freeport/Lucaya) ig, bold, and brassy are the words that best describe Grand B Bahama Island, where you’ll find the resort area of Freeport/Lucaya. Though there’s a ton of tourist development, it doesn’t have the upscale chic of Paradise Island, but it does have fabulous white-sand beaches and a more reasonable price tag. It may never return to its high-roller days with the gloss and glitz of the ’60s, when everybody from Howard Hughes to Frank Sinatra and Rat Packers showed up, but recent improvements and massive redevelopment have brought a smile back to its face, which had grown wrinkled and tired over the latter part of the 20th century. The second-most-popular tourist destination in The Bahamas (Nassau/Cable Beach/Paradise Island is 1st), Grand Bahama lies just 81km (50 miles) and less than 30 minutes by air off the Florida coast. That puts it just 122km (76 miles) east of Palm Beach, Florida. The island is the northernmost and fourth-largest landmass in The Bahamas (118km/73 miles long and 6.5km–13km/4 miles– 8 miles wide). Freeport/Lucaya was once just a dream—a low-lying pine forest that almost overnight in the 1950s turned into one of the world’s major resorts. The resort was the dream of Wallace Groves, a Virginia-born financier who saw the prospect of developing the island into a miniature Miami Beach. Today, with the casino, the International Bazaar, high-rise hotels, golf courses, marinas, and a bevy of continental restaurants, that dream has been realized. The Lucaya district was developed 8 years later, as a resort center along the coast. It has evolved into a blend of residential and tourist facilities. As the two communities grew, their identities became almost indistinguishable. But elements of their original purposes still exist today. Freeport is the downtown area and attracts visitors with its commerce, industry, and own resorts, whereas Lucaya is called the “Garden City” and pleases residents and vacationers alike with its fine sandy beaches.

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Grand Bahama is more than an Atlantic City clone, however. If you don’t care for gambling at one of the island’s two casinos, or if you’re not interested in Vegas-style cabaret revues, there are alternatives. Because the island is so big, most of it remains relatively unspoiled. There are plenty of quiet places where you can get close to nature, including the Rand Memorial Nature Centre (see later) and the Garden of the Groves. Lucayan National Park, with its underwater caves, forest trails, and secluded beach, is another major attraction. Just kilometers from Freeport/Lucaya are serene places where you can wander in a world of casuarina, palmetto, and pine trees. During the day, you can enjoy long stretches of open beach, broken by inlets and little fishing villages. The reviews of Grand Bahama Island are definitely mixed. Some discerning travelers who could live anywhere have built homes here; others vow never to set foot on the island again, finding it “tacky” or “uninspired.” Judge for yourself.

1 Orientation For a general discussion on traveling to The Bahamas, refer to chapter 2.

ARRIVING A number of airlines fly to Grand Bahama International Airport from the continental United States, including American Airlines (& 800/ 433-7300; www.aa.com) and Bahamasair (& 800/222-4262; www. bahamasair.com), both with daily flights from Miami. Lynx Air International, Inc., a Fort Lauderdale–based commercial carrier (& 888/596-9247), flies from Fort Lauderdale to Freeport. GulfStream Continental Connection (& 800/231-0856) flies to Freeport from both Fort Lauderdale and Miami. US Airways (& 800/428-4322) flies daily from New York’s LaGuardia Airport, and also has a daily flight from Charlotte, North Carolina. Many visitors arrive in Nassau, then hop a Bahamasair flight to Freeport. These 35-minute hops run $158 round-trip. No buses run from the airport to the major hotel zones. But many hotels will provide airport transfers, especially if you’ve bought a package deal. If yours does not, no problem; taxis meet arriving flights and will take you from the airport to one of the hotels in Freeport or Lucaya for about $11 to $14. The ride shouldn’t take more than about 10 minutes.

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VISITOR INFORMATION Assistance and information are available at the Grand Bahama Tourism Board, International Bazaar in Freeport (& 242/3526909). Another information booth is at the Freeport International Airport (& 242/352-2052). There’s also a branch at the cruise-ship docks. Hours are 9am to 5pm Monday through Saturday.

ISLAND LAYOUT Getting around Freeport/Lucaya is fairly easy because of its flat terrain. Although Freeport and Lucaya are frequently mentioned in the same breath, newcomers should note that Freeport is a landlocked collection of hotels and shops rising from the island’s center, while Lucaya, about 4km (21⁄ 2 miles) away, is a waterfront section of hotels, shops, and restaurants clustered next to a saltwater pond on the island’s southern shoreline. Freeport lies midway between the northern and southern shores of Grand Bahama Island. Bisected by some of the island’s largest roads, it contains the biggest hotels, as well as two of the most-visited attractions in the country: the Resorts at Bahamia Casino and the International Bazaar shopping complex. The local straw market, where you buy inexpensive souvenirs, lies just to the right of the entrance to the International Bazaar. To reach Port Lucaya from Freeport, head east from the International Bazaar along East Sunrise Highway, then turn south at the intersection with Seahorse Road. Within about 4km (21⁄ 2 miles), it will lead to the heart of the Lucaya complex, Port Lucaya. Set between the beach and a saltwater pond, Port Lucaya’s architectural centerpiece is Count Basie Square, named for the great entertainer who used to have a home on the island. Within a short walk east or west, along the narrow strip of sand between the sea and the saltwater pond, rise most of the hotels of Lucaya Beach. Heading west of Freeport and Lucaya, the West Sunrise Highway passes industrial complexes such as The Bahamas Oil Refining Company. At the junction with Queen’s Highway, you can take the road northwest all the way to West End, a distance of some 45km (28 miles) from the center of Freeport. Along the way you pass Freeport Harbour, where cruise ships dock. Just to the east lies Hawksbill Creek, a village known for its fish market. Much less explored is the East End of Grand Bahama. It’s located some 72km (45 miles) from the center of Freeport and is reached

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via the Grand Bahama Highway, which, despite its name, is rather rough in parts. Allow about 2 hours of driving time. First you pass the Rand Memorial Nature Centre, about 5km (3 miles) east of Freeport. About 11km (7 miles) on is Lucaya National Park, and 8km (5 miles) farther lies the hamlet of Free Town; east of Free Town is High Rock, known for its Emmanuel Baptist Church. From here, the road becomes considerably rougher until it ends in MacLean’s Town, which celebrates Columbus Day with an annual conch-cracking contest. From here, it’s possible to take a water-taxi across Runners Creek to the exclusive Deep Water Cay club, catering to serious anglers. In Freeport/Lucaya, but especially on the rest of Grand Bahama Island, you will almost never find a street number on a hotel or a store. Sometimes in the more remote places, you won’t even find a street name. In lieu of numbers, locate places by prominent landmarks or hotels.

2 Getting Around BY TAXI The government sets the taxi rates, and the cabs are metered (or should be). If there’s no meter, agree on the price with the driver in advance. The cost is $3 for the first kilometer (3⁄ 4-mile), plus 40¢ for each additional half-kilometer (1⁄ 4-mile). You can call for a taxi, although most taxis wait at the major hotels or the cruise-ship dock to pick up passengers. One major taxi company is Freeport Taxi Company, Old Airport Road (& 242/ 352-6666), open 24 hours. Another is Grand Bahama Taxi Union at the Freeport International Airport (& 242/352-7101), also open 24 hours.

BY BUS There is public bus service from the International Bazaar to downtown Freeport and from the Pub on the Mall to the Lucaya area. The typical fare is $1 for adults, 50¢ for children. Check with the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above) for bus schedules. There is no number to call for information.

BY CAR If you plan to confine your exploration to the center of Freeport with its International Bazaar, and Lucaya with its beaches, you can rely on public transportation. However, if you’d like to branch out and explore

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the rest of the island (perhaps finding a more secluded beach), a rental car is the way to go. Try Avis (& 800/331-2112 or 242/352-7666; www.avis.com) or Hertz (& 800/654-3001 or 242/352-9277; www. hertz.com). Both of these companies maintain offices in small bungalows outside the exit of the Freeport International Airport. One of the best local companies is Star Rent-a-Car, Old Airport Road (& 242/352-9325), which rents everything from a new-style Volkswagen Beetle to a Toyota Corolla. Rates range from $69 per day with unlimited mileage, plus another $14 per day for a CDW (Collision Damage Waiver). Gas is expensive, usually costing about $7 per gallon.

BY SCOOTER This is a fun way to get around as most of Grand Bahamas is flat with well-paved roads. Scooters can be rented at most hotels, or, for cruise-ship passengers, there are motor scooters for rent in the Freeport Harbour area. Helmets are required and provided by the outfitter. There are dozens of stands along the road in Freeport and Lucaya and also in the major parking lots. Rentals cost $50 per day. Call & 242/352-9661 for more information.

ON FOOT You can explore the center of Freeport or Lucaya on foot, but if you want to venture into the East End or West End, you’ll need to rent a car, hire a taxi, or try Grand Bahama’s erratic public transportation.

FAST FACTS: Grand Bahama Climate See “When to Go,” in chapter 2. Currency Exchange Americans need not bother to exchange their dollars into Bahamian dollars, because the currencies are on par. However, Canadians and Brits will need to convert their money, which can be done at local banks or sometimes at a hotel, though hotels tend to offer less favorable rates. Dentists A reliable dentist is Dr. Larry Bain, Sun Alliance Building, Pioneer’s Way, Freeport (& 242/352-8492). Hours are Monday through Wednesday from 8:30am to 5pm and Thursday and Friday from 8:30am to 1pm. Doctors For the fastest and best service, just head to Rand Memorial Hospital (see “Hospitals,” below).

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Drugstores For prescriptions and other pharmaceutical needs, go to Mini Mall, 1 West Mall, Explorer’s Way, where you’ll find L.M.R. Prescription Drugs (& 242/352-7327), next door to Burger King. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 8am to 9pm and Sunday 8am to 3pm. Embassies & Consulates See “Fast Facts: The Bahamas,” in chapter 2. Emergencies For all emergencies, call & 911, or dial 0 for the operator. Eyeglass Repair The biggest specialist in eyeglasses and contact lenses is the Optique Shoppe, 7 Regent Centre, downtown Freeport (& 242/352-9073). Hospitals If you have a medical emergency, contact the Rand Memorial Hospital, East Atlantic Drive (& 242/352-6735 or 242/352-2689 for ambulance emergency). This is a government-operated, 90-bed hospital. Information See “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter. Laundry & Dry Cleaning Try Jiffy Cleaners and Laundry, West Mall at Pioneer’s Way (& 242/352-7079), open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 6pm. Newspapers & Magazines The Freeport News is a morning newspaper published Monday through Saturday except holidays. The two dailies published in Nassau, the Tribune and the Nassau Guardian, are also available here, as are some New York and Miami papers, especially the Miami Herald, usually on the date of publication. American news magazines, such as Time and Newsweek, are flown in on the day of publication. Police In an emergency, dial & 911. Post Office The main post office is on Explorer’s Way in Freeport (& 242/352-9371). Safety Avoid walking or jogging along lonely roads. There are no particular danger zones, but stay alert: Grand Bahama is no stranger to drugs and crime. Taxes All visitors leaving The Bahamas from Freeport must pay an $22 departure tax—in cash. (Both U.S. and Bahamian dollars are accepted.) There is no sales tax, but there’s an 8% hotel tax. Taxis See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter. Weather Grand Bahama, in the north of The Bahamas, has temperatures in winter that vary from about 60°F to 75°F

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(16°C–24°C) daily. Summer variations range from 78°F to the high 80s (26°C to the low 30s). In Freeport/Lucaya, phone & 242/352-6675 for weather information.

3 Where to Stay Your choices are the Freeport area, near the Bahamia Casino and the International Bazaar, or Lucaya, closer to the beach. Remember: In most cases, a resort levy of 8% and a 15% service charge will be added to your final bill. Be prepared, and ask if it’s already included in the initial price you’re quoted.

FREEPORT EXPENSIVE Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino

Kids This mammoth complex actually consists of two differently styled resorts combined under one umbrella: the 10-story Crowne Plaza at Bahamia and the less glamorous, three-story Holiday Inn SunSpree at Bahamia. Reinventing itself to stay competitive, the resort spent some $42 million on its once-tired, built-in-the-1960s properties, hoping to revive some of their old glitz and glamour. Flanked by a pair of fine golf courses, and thus catering to the convention crowd, the resorts are set on 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres) of tropical grounds. As it lies inland from the sea, the complex doesn’t have its own natural beach. One of the grandest additions is a marine park and a man-made, landlocked beach; otherwise, you can take frequent shuttle buses to good natural beaches nearby. The two “Bahamias” also jointly share one of the largest casinos in the entire country, a serviceable site that’s functional—though nowhere near as flashy or cutting edge as, say, the Atlantis Casino on Paradise Island. The Holiday Inn at Bahamia attracts families, honeymooners, frugal couples, golfers, and others who don’t need or want luxury. The hotel’s design is rather like an enormous low-rise wagon wheel, with a Disney-inspired minimountain surrounded by a swimming pool at its core. The hotel is so spread out, guests often complain that they need ground transport just to reach their bedrooms. (Nine wings radiate from the pool.) Some of the rooms have kitchenettes and are sold as timeshare units. Regular accommodations come in several classifications; even standard rooms are well equipped, with two comfortable double beds, dressing areas, and full-size bathrooms. Rooms in the 900 wing are the largest and best furnished—

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and are usually the ones that sell out first. Both resorts also rent out a number of suites, each furnished in summery fabrics plus beachy but durable furniture. Crowne Plaza, lying across the Mall from its larger sibling, is smaller and more tranquil, and a bit more posh, containing 22 suites and 352 luxuriously furnished large units. The tower structure adjoins the Casino and the International Bazaar. The somewhat passé and even vaguely campy Arabic motif, the crowning glory of which is the Moorish-style tower (with turrets, arches, and a white dome), continues through the octagon-shaped lobby. Lots of conventioneers and folks on quick getaways from Florida tend to stay here, as do high rollers. The Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. (P.O. Box F-207), Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 800/545-1300 in the U.S. and Canada, or 242/350-7000. Fax 242/350-7002. http://cpgrandbahama.crowneplaza.com. 965 units. Winter Holiday Inn $145 double, $210 1-bedroom suite, $250 2-bedroom suite; winter Crowne Plaza $175 double, $350 1-bedroom suite, $420 2-bedroom suite; off-season Holiday Inn $130 double, $195 1-bedroom suite, $240 2-bedroom suite; off-season Crowne Plaza $160 double, $300 1-bedroom suite, $360 2-bedroom suite; $99 extra per person for all-inclusive items. Up to 2 children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 6 bars; 2 pools; tennis courts; health club; spa; watersports equipment/rentals; room service (available 7:30am–10pm); massage; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

M O D E R AT E Island Seas Resort

A timeshare property open to nonmembers, this resort opens onto a secluded beach, although it also offers its own water fun in the form of a pool, hot tub, and waterfall. Also on site is a Tiki-hut restaurant and bar. The location is convenient for the Port Lucaya Market and the Lucaya Golf and Country Club. Depending on their individual owners, each condo is different, ranging from one-bedroom units to large two-bedroom suites. Each contains a full bathroom with tub and shower, plus a kitchenette and balcony. Although not part of the hotel facilities, there are many water sports outfitters available right on the beach.

William’s Town, Freeport, Grand Bahamas, The Bahamas. & 242/373-1271. Fax 242/373-1275. www.islandseas.com. 149 units. Winter $159–$210 double; off-season $130–$180 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; tennis court; bike rentals. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker, iron/ironing board, safe.

INEXPENSIVE Best Western Castaways

Kids Castaways is a modest and unassuming hotel despite its platinum location adjacent to the International Bazaar and the casino. You stay here because of its location

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and the low price. It’s not on the beach, but a free shuttle will take you to nearby Williams Town Beach or Xanadu Beach. Surrounded by gardens, the four-story hotel has a pagoda roof and an indoor/outdoor garden lobby with a gift shop, a clothing shop, a game room, and tour desks. Rooms are your basic motel style, and the best units are on the ground. The Flamingo Restaurant features remarkable Bahamian and American dishes, though only on Friday and Saturday from 6 to 10pm; Monday to Friday from 7:30 to 11am, it also serves one of the island’s best breakfasts. There’s also a swimming pool area with a wide terrace and pool bar serving sandwiches and cool drinks. A children’s playground adjoins the pool. International Bazaar (P.O. Box F-42629), Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/352-6682. Fax 242/352-5087. www.grand-bahama.com/castaways. 118 units. Winter $120 double, $150 suite; off-season $95–$104 double, $140 suite. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool; bike rentals; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV.

Island Palm Set within the commercial heart of Freeport, this

simple three-story motel, completely renovated in 1999, consists of four buildings separated by parking lots and greenery. Within an easy walk from virtually everything in town, and 2km (11⁄ 4 miles) from the International Bazaar, it offers good value in no-frills, eminently serviceable rooms with well-kept bathrooms equipped with shower-tub combinations. Complimentary shuttle-bus service ferries anybody who’s interested to nearby Williamstown Beach (also called Island Seas Beach), where you can use the beachfront facilities (including jet skis and snorkeling equipment) of its sibling resort, a timeshare unit known as Island Sea. The Safari Restaurant, under separate management next door, is recommended separately (see “Where to Dine,” below). E. Mall Dr. (P.O. Box F-40200), Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/ 352-6648. Fax 242/352-6640. 150 units. $105 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; pool. In room: A/C, TV.

Lakeview Manor Club Today this 1970s-era resort is a timeshare, but it was originally built as private apartments. It’s a good bargain for those who want peace and privacy, but the staff seems a bit lax. Catering to self-sufficient types, it offers midsize one-bedroom and studio apartments, each with tropical furniture, a private balcony, plus small bathrooms with shower stalls. The club overlooks the fifth hole of the PGA-approved Princess Ruby Golf Course. It’s 8km (5 miles) from the beach, but it’s ideal for golfers

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or for anyone to whom a sea view isn’t important. A complimentary shuttle bus travels to International Bazaar and beach areas. Cadwallader Jones Dr. (P.O. Box F-42699), Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/352-9789. Fax 242/352-2283. www.bahamasvg.com/lakeview. 52 units. $75 double, $450 weekly double; $100 1-bedroom apt., $600 1-bedroom apt. weekly. MC, V. Closed 1 week in Nov. Amenities: Pool; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV.

Royal Islander Don’t be fooled by the corny-looking, stormbattered exterior of this place. It was built during an unfortunate Disney-style period in Freeport’s expansion, during the early 1980s, with an improbable-looking pyramidal roof inspired by a cluster of Mayan pyramids. Inside, it’s a lot more appealing than you might think, with rooms arranged around a verdant courtyard that seems far, far removed from the busy traffic and sterile-looking landscape outside. Rooms have white-tile floors and bathrooms that are on the small side, with tiny sinks and shower stalls. Otherwise, the motif is Florida/tropical, with some pizzazz. There’s a coffee-shop-style snack bar on the premises, but other than that, you’ll have to wander a short distance, perhaps to the International Bazaar just across the street, to find diversions and dining. E. Mall Dr., Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/351-6000. Fax 242/3513546. www.bahamasvg.com/royalislander.html. 100 units. Winter $124 double; offseason $82–$92 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; pool; Jacuzzi; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV.

LUCAYA EXPENSIVE The Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya

This massive $400 million resort, one of the largest in The Bahamas, is firmly anchored at the center of two of the best white sandy beaches in The Bahamas—Lucayan Beach and Taíno Beach. The first of the three sections was completed late in 1998 under the name The Reef Village. It’s the only one of the three branches of Our Lucaya to focus exclusively on all-inclusive holidays, whereby all meals, drinks, and most activities are included in one set price. With a vague South Beach Art Deco design, it’s a massive, open-sided hexagon, with rooms facing the beach and the swimming pool. The resort is contemporary but relaxed; the developers have created a young vibe that draws a high number of families. Bedrooms are whimsical and fun, thanks to fabrics you’d expect on a loud Hawaiian shirt from the Elvis era and maple-veneered furniture, all put together with the kind of artful simplicity you’d expect in a California beach house.

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There are smaller subdivisions of the property neither of which is marketed as an all-inclusive property. The smaller and somewhat more private of the two is Lighthouse Pointe, a 221-unit, low-rise complex that focuses specifically on an adult clientele. Its larger counterpart is the 550-unit Breakers Cay, a grand, 10-story, whitesided tower. The three sections stretch in a glittering profile along a narrow strip of beachfront, allowing residents to drop into any of the bars, restaurants, and gardens. A complex this big contains a staggering diversity of restaurants, each designed with a different theme and ambience. The best of the resort’s cuisine selections will be reviewed under “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter. A spa and fitness center, a quartet of tennis courts, a convention center, a stateof-the-art casino, and a shopping mall have all also been added in recent years, and there’s an increasing emphasis on golf thanks to the opening of the spectacular Reef Course (separately recommended later in this chapter). Children aged 2 to 12 can be amused and entertained throughout daylight hours every day at Camp Lucaya, whose headquarters lie adjacent to the pool at the Reef Village. P.O. Box F-42500, Royal Palm Way, Lucaya, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 800/ LUCAYAN in the U.S., or 242/373-1333. Fax 242/373-8804. www.ourlucaya.com. 1,350 units. Reef Village (all-inclusive) winter $165–$205 double; off-season $120–$160 double; $30 extra per day for 3rd and 4th occupant. Lighthouse Pointe or Breakers Cay winter $275–$325 double; off-season $195–$245 double; $30 extra for 3rd and 4th occupant. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 16 restaurants; 16 bars; 3 pools; 2 golf courses; 5 tennis courts; health club; spa; watersports equipment/rentals; children’s programs; 24-hour room service; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, iron/ironing board.

M O D E R AT E Pelican Bay at Lucaya

Here’s a good choice for travelers with champagne tastes and beer budgets, a hotel with more architectural charm than any other small property on Grand Bahama. It’s built on a peninsula jutting into a labyrinth of inland waterways, with moored yachts on virtually every side. Pelican Bay evokes a Danish seaside village, with rows of “town houses,” each painted a different color and sporting whimsical trim, and each overlooking the harbor. Its location couldn’t be better, right next to Port Lucaya Marketplace, where restaurants and entertainment spots abound. Lucayan Beach, one of the best stretches of white sand on the island, is just across the street, and Taíno Beach, with equally good sands, lies immediately to the east of the hotel. UNEXSO, providing some of the best dive facilities in The Bahamas, is next door.

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The spacious accommodations have Italian tile floors and whitewashed furniture, with either a king-size bed or twin beds. The end rooms have cross ventilation and are the ideal choices for those who don’t want to rely entirely on air-conditioning. Nonsmoking accommodations can also be requested. Each unit comes with a wet bar and satellite TV, as well as a balcony with a view of the nearby waterway and marina. Bathrooms, although of standard size, contain oversize cotton robes and tub and shower combos. Port Lucaya (P.O. Box F-42654), Lucaya, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 800/ 600-9192 in the U.S., or 242/373-9550. Fax 242/373-9551. www.pelicanbayhotel. com. 69 units. Winter $155–$195 double, $360 suite; off-season $125–$165 double, $250 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe.

Port Lucaya Resort & Yacht Club

With its own 50-slip marina lying next to the Port Lucaya Marketplace, this club opened in 1993. The resort consists of a series of pastel-colored two-story structures that guests reach via golf cart after checking in. The wings of guest rooms separate the piers—site of some very expensive marine hardware—from a verdant central green space with a gazebostyle bar and a swimming pool. All of this is in the heart of the Port Lucaya restaurant, hotel, and nightlife complex. Although set back inland on a waterway, Lucayan Harbour, this resort lies within a few minutes’ walk of Lucayan Beach, one of the island’s finest, and is also close to Taíno Beach. Even though it’s not right on the beach, it’s such an easy walk that no one seems to complain. Some guests actually prefer the nautical, yachting look of the place and the nearness to Port Lucaya Marketplace. The medium-size rooms have tile floors and are attractively and comfortably furnished with rattan pieces and big wall mirrors. The rooms are divided into various categories, ranging from standard to deluxe, and open onto the marina (preferred by yachting guests), the Olympic-size swimming pool, or the well-landscaped garden. (If you don’t want to hear the sounds coming from the lively marketplace, request units 1–6, which are more tranquil and away from the noise. Nonsmokers can reserve a room in units 5 or 6.) Bathrooms with newer shower-tub combinations are tidy and well maintained, with adequate shelf space.

Bell Channel Bay Rd. (P.O. Box F-42452), Lucaya, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 800/582-2921 or 242/373-6618. Fax 242/373-6652. www.portlucayaresort. com. 160 units. Winter $100–$145 double, $175–$250 suite; off-season $80–$120 double, $125–$200 suite. Extra person $25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool; Jacuzzi; room service for breakfast only 7am–11pm; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV.

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INEXPENSIVE Coral Beach Built in 1965 as privately owned condominiums,

this peacefully isolated property near a sandy beach sits amid gardens and groves of casuarinas in a residential neighborhood. Some of the apartments and rooms have verandas, and four contain kitchenettes. More suitable for older travelers, the complex rents large but rather sparsely furnished units. The Garden Cafe provides international food at reasonable prices and is open daily for breakfast and dinner. You’re also within walking distance of the Port Lucaya Marketplace. Coral Rd. at Royal Palm Way (P.O. Box F-42468), Lucaya, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/373-2468. Fax 242/373-5140. 10 units. Winter $113 double, $129 triple; off-season $91 double, $100 triple. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool. In room: A/C, TV.

OUTSIDE FREEPORT/LUCAYA EXPENSIVE Club Viva Fortuna

Think of this as an Italian Club Med. It caters to a mostly European, relatively young crowd, who appreciate the 14 secluded hectares (35 acres) of beachfront and the nonstop sports activities that are included in the price. Some guests like to go topless, not the norm in The Bahamas. Established in 1993, Club Fortuna lies 9.5km (6 miles) east of the International Bazaar in the southeastern part of the island, amid an isolated landscape of casuarinas and scrubland. Midsize bedrooms lie in a colorful group of twostory outbuildings. About three-quarters have ocean views; the others overlook the garden. Each has a private balcony, and two queen-size beds, with a small bathroom with shower stalls. Singles can book one of these rooms, but they are charged 40% more than the per-person double-occupancy rate. All meals, which are included in the rates, are served buffet-style in a pavilion near the beach, and the Italian cuisine is actually some of the best on Grand Bahama Island. In addition to the buffet, there is a casual Italian restaurant, La Trattoria, where you can order sit-down dinners within a candlelit setting. Bahamian and Italian performers provide nightly entertainment.

1 Dubloon Rd. (P.O. Box F-42398), Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas. & 242/373-4000. Fax 242/373-5555. www.vivaresorts.com. 276 units. Winter $160–$320 double, $207–$407 triple, $256–$456 quad; off-season $200–$230 double, $261–$306 triple, $304–$364 quad. Children under 7 stay free. Children 7–11 50% off per day in parent’s room (maximum of 2 children). Rates include meals, and land and watersports. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, bar, pool; health club; watersports equipment/rentals; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, safe, no phone.

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Deep Water Cay Club The ultimate hideaway, even more Finds so than Paradise Cove, this is a secret address passed around privately by bonefish devotees. Bahamian-style cottages are strung along a pristine beach of white sand on a private island. The bonefishing is first-rate among these saltwater flats. The club has been a tradition since it was established in 1958 by Gilbert Drake, a sportsman and avid fisherman. The club continues today as the premier bonefishing lodge in The Bahamas. Bonefish here average 4 to 5 pounds, and licensed guides head a fleet of customized Dolphin Super Skiffs. Bedrooms are exceedingly spacious and well-furnished, with private entrances and roomy bathrooms with tub and shower. Some 22 guests at a time are housed here in an intimate, relaxed setting. Everyone dines together on a well-prepared but simple continental and island cuisine. Naturally the favorite dish is the catch of the day. Deep Water Cay (1100 Lee Wagener Blvd., Suite 352, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315). & 242/353-3073 or 954/359-0488. Fax 242/353-3095. www.deepwatercay.com. 11 units. Dec–Feb $1,465 per person double occupancy; Mar–Nov $1,555–$1,630 per person double occupancy. Rates all-inclusive for 3 nights and 21⁄ 2 days of fishing. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; 2 tennis courts; watersports equipment/rentals; babysitting. In room: A/C, fridge, coffeemaker, no phone.

M O D E R AT E Old Bahama Bay

A cottage-style resort, this former Jack Tar Village is the centerpiece of an 11-hectare (28-acre) site with home sites and a marina. Its opening is hailed as part of the overall renaissance of Grand Bahama Island. In an oceanfront setting, the boutique hotel has cottages adjacent to the marina complex; a private beach is only steps away. The colonial-style architecture graces a setting 40km (25 miles) west of Freeport, consisting of suites set in six two-story beach houses and three spacious buildings overlooking the marina. The living space is the most generous on the island, with custom-designed furnishings along with private beachfront terraces. Bathrooms are luxurious with deluxe toiletries, and a tub and shower combo. Dockside Grill serves quite good Bahamian and American dishes for three meals a day. West End (P.O. Box F-42546), Grand Bahama Island, The Bahamas. & 800/572-5711 in the U.S. or 242/350-6500. Fax 242/346-6546. www.oldbahamabay.com. 47 units. $360–$560 double. $8 extra per child. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; 2 tennis courts; health club; watersports equipment/rentals; massage. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, safe.

Paradise Cove Deadman’s Reef sounds unappetizing but Finds teems with rainbow-hued tropical marine life and a vast array of

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coral to delight the snorkeler in you. This is a secluded hideaway on a beach, an informal series of one-bedroom apartments and twobedroom cottages rented to those who like to escape the glitz and glam of Freeport or Lucaya. Away from the crowds, Paradise Cove is like Grand Bahama used to be before the tourist hordes invaded. Yet you are only a 20-minute drive east of West End. Snorkeling, swimming, kayaking, and sunbathing fill the day here. All units are good size and have full kitchens for those who want to cook their own grub. Deadman’s Reef (P.O. Box F-42771), Freeport, Grand Bahama Island. & 242/3492677. Fax 242/352-5471. www.bahamasnet.com/paradisecove. 7 units. Nov–Apr $100 apt., $125 cottage, $175 2-bedroom villa; off-season $75 apt., $105 cottage, $175 2-bedroom villa. Extra person $12.50 per day. Amenities: Bar; watersports equipment/rentals. In room: A/C, kitchen, no phone.

4 Where to Dine Foodies will find that the cuisine on Grand Bahama Island doesn’t match the more refined fare served at dozens of places on New Providence (Nassau/Paradise Island). However, a few places in Grand Bahama specialize in fine dining; others get by with rather standard fare. The good news is that the dining scene is much more affordable here.

FREEPORT EXPENSIVE The Rib Room

SEAFOOD/STEAKS The Rib Room serves the island’s best steaks, in huge portions. Everything is served in the atmosphere of a British hunting lodge. If you don’t want one of the steaks, opt instead for the blue-ribbon prime rib of beef with a passable Yorkshire pudding. Special praise goes to the broiled Bahamian lobster, but steer clear of the grouper. Shrimp can be succulent when it’s not overcooked, and steak Diane, although rather fully flavored, is meltingly textured. The wine list is reasonably priced. In Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, the Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. & 242/352-6721. Reservations recommended. Jackets required for men. Main courses $20–$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 5:30–10:30pm.

M O D E R AT E Silvano’s ITALIAN

This is the only authentic Italian dining spot in Freeport. The 80-seat restaurant with its Mediterranean decor serves a worthy but not exceptional cuisine. The standard repertoire from Mama Mia’s kitchen is presented here with quality ingredients, most often shipped in from the United States. Service

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is polite and helpful. The grilled veal steak is our favorite, although the home pastas are equally alluring. They’re served with a wide variety of freshly made sauces. The chef also works his magic with fresh shrimp. Other traditional Italian dishes round out the menu. Ranfurley Circus. & 242/352-5111. Reservations recommended. Lunch $5.50–$11; main courses $13–$36. MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 5:30–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE Beckey’s Restaurant BAHAMIAN/AMERICAN

This pinkand-white restaurant offers authentic Bahamian cuisine prepared in the time-tested style of the Out Islands. Go here to rev up before a day of serious shopping at the International Bazaar, which is right at hand. Owned by Beckey and Berkeley Smith, the place offers a welcome dose of down-to-earth noncasino reality. Breakfasts are either all-American or Bahamian and are available all day. Also popular are minced lobster, curried mutton, fish platters, baked or curried chicken, and conch salads. Stick to the local specialties instead of the lackluster American dishes.

E. Sunrise Hwy. and E. Beach Dr. & 242/352-5247. Breakfast $5–$10; lunch items $7–$17; dinner main courses $8–$24. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

Geneva’s BAHAMIAN/SEAFOOD If you want to eat where the locals eat, head for Geneva’s, where the food is made the oldfashioned way. This restaurant is one of the best places to sample conch, which has fed and nourished Bahamians for centuries. The Monroe family will prepare it for you stewed, cracked, or fried, or in a savory conch chowder that makes an excellent starter. Grouper also appears, prepared in every imaginable way. The bartender will get you into the mood with a rum-laced Bahama Mama. Kipling Lane, the Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. & 242/352-5085. Lunch sandwiches and platters $8–$11; dinner main courses $10–$25. DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

Kokonuts Beach Bar & Restaurant BAHAMIAN

Kids This south Seas restaurant attracts both visitors and islanders. With picnic tables placed outside to take advantage of the view, it is beautifully situated on the ocean before kilometers of white sand stretching in either direction. The menu is wisely limited, the chef preferring to concentrate on grilled seafood. The catch of the day is usually done to perfection. Nothing is too fancy or elaborate here. The place is also a real family favorite because of its location on the beach. It lies about a 10-minute drive from the center of Freeport.

St. Andrew Dr. & 242/351-5656. Lunch $7–$13; main courses $13–$24. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am.

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The Pepper Pot BAHAMIAN

This might be the only place on Grand Bahama that specializes in Bahamian takeout food. You’ll find it after about a 5-minute drive east of the International Bazaar, in a tiny shopping mall. You can order takeout portions of the best guava duff on the island, as well as a savory conch chowder, the standard fish and pork chops, chicken souse (an acquired taste), cracked conch, sandwiches and hamburgers, and an array of daily specials. The owner is Ethiopian-born Wolansa Fountain.

E. Sunrise Hwy. (at Coral Rd.). & 242/373-7655. Breakfast $3–$5.50; main courses $7–$8.25; vegetarian plates $2.50–$5.50. No credit cards. Daily 24 hr.

The Pub on the Mall INTERNATIONAL Located on the same floor of the same building and under the same management, three distinctive eating areas lie across the boulevard from the International Bazaar and attract many locals. The Prince of Wales serves such Olde English staples as shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, platters of roast beef or fish, and real English ale. One end of the room is devoted to the Red Dog Sports Bar, with a boisterous atmosphere and at least three TV screens blasting away for dedicated sports fans. Silvano’s (see above) is an Italian restaurant serving lots of pasta, usually with verve, as well as veal, chicken, beefsteaks, and such desserts as tiramisu. The Bahamian-themed Islander’s Roost has a tropical decor of bright island color and a balcony overlooking the Bazaar. The food is good if not great; the main platters are a good value, usually very filling and satisfying. Menu items include sandwiches, salads, grilled fish, beefsteaks, and prime rib. Ranfurley Circle, Sunrise Hwy. & 242/352-5110. Reservations recommended. Main courses in Prince of Wales Pub and Red Dog $5.95–$36; main courses in Silvano’s $13–$36; main courses in Islander’s Roost $13–$37. AE, MC, V. Prince of Wales and Red Dog daily noon–1am; Silvano’s daily noon–3pm and 5–11pm; Islander’s Roost Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm.

Safari Restaurant INTERNATIONAL At breakfast or lunch,

you’ll place your order at a kiosk-style snack bar and carry simple paper plates to an outdoor table near the pool. But at dinner, more formal meals are served in a large, conventional, sit-down restaurant, which has a bar and a stage for live music. The menu is full of straightforward staples like New York strip steaks, pork chops, hot roast beef, broiled or grilled snapper, broiled chicken, or seafood platters. After 10:30pm every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, the place becomes a disco (with a $10 cover charge that includes the first drink). Locals often stop by for dinner and nightclubbing. Women are admitted free on Wednesday and Sunday night.

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E. Mall Dr. & 242/352-2805. American breakfast $4.95; lunch main courses $3.75–$9.75; dinner main courses $10–$34. AE. Daily 7:30–11am, 11am–5pm, and 5:30–10pm.

IN THE INTERNATIONAL BAZAAR INEXPENSIVE Cafe Michel BAHAMIAN/FRENCH The name implies that

you’ve found a real French bistro set amid the bustle of the International Bazaar, but alas, it turns out to be a mere coffee shop. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for refueling when you’re shopping the bazaar. There are about 20 tables outside, placed under red and white umbrellas and bistro-style tablecloths. Inside are about a dozen more. Local shoppers know to come here not only for coffee, but also for platters, salads, and sandwiches throughout the day. Both American and Bahamian dishes are served, including seafood platters, steaks, and, of course, grouper. The house specialty is a Bahamian lobster platter with all the fixings. International Bazaar. & 242/352-2191. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $4.95–$35. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–8pm.

China Temple CHINESE This is a Chinese joint—not a lot more—that also does takeout. Over the years it’s proved to be the dining bargain of the bazaar. The menu is familiar and standard: chop suey, chow mein, and sweet-and-sour. It’s certainly not gourmet Asian fare, but it’s cheap; and it might hit the spot when you’re craving something different. International Bazaar. & 242/352-5610. Lunch $6.75–$8:506.758.50; main courses $10–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

Le Rendezvous INTERNATIONAL Under one roof is practically a United Nations of a restaurant. What you get isn’t bad, but the chefs can hardly be expected to excel in all cuisines, especially those that travel from India to the West Indies, from Mexico to sunny Rome, with stops around the world in spicy Thailand and exotic Indonesia. They even feature Bahamian food. For a main course, we generally opt for the Thai stir-fries, which we find to be the best items on the menu. Because of its diverse menu, there is no more appropriate restaurant for the International Bazaar than this one. International Bazaar. & 242/352-9610. Lunch main courses $5–$13; dinner main courses $10–$23. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10:30pm.

LUCAYA EXPENSIVE The Stoned Crab

SEAFOOD Tired of frozen seafood shipped in from the mainland? Come here for the sweet stone crab claws and

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the lobster, both caught in Bahamian waters. There’s none better on the island. You can’t miss this place—a triple pyramid (1968) whose four-story wood and steel framework is strong enough to withstand any hurricane. Swiss-born Livio Peronino is the manager and chef, preparing a seafood platter with everything on it, including grouper, conch fritters, and all kinds of shellfish. The best pasta on the menu is linguine al pesto with lobster and shrimp. For starters, try the zesty conch chowder. Have a salad and home-baked raisin bread with your meal, and finish with Irish coffee. At Taíno Beach, Lucaya. & 242/373-1442. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$39. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–10:30pm.

Willy Broadleaf INTERNATIONAL At the first-class Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya, you’re treated to one of the most lavish buffet dinners in the entire Bahamian chain. The chefs conceive of their lavish offering as a giant spread of exotic dishes based on recipes from around the globe. The decor fits the cuisine, evoking a courtyard patio in Mexico, a marketplace in old Cairo, the dining hall of an Indian maharajah, even an African village; from India comes tandoori chicken, from Greece moussaka. Another tasty treat is a sausage made from wild boar. Expect freshly made salads, both hot and cold dishes, and luscious, often fruit-based desserts. The Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya, Royal Palm Way. & 242/373-1333. Sun–Thurs $30 buffet, Fri–Sat $38 buffet. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11pm.

M O D E R AT E Barracuda’s INTERNATIONAL

With high ceilings and big windows, this space is the size of an airplane hanger, and it’s done up with playful art and a whimsical, hip decor that would be at home in Miami’s South Beach. The kitchen turns out light international dishes that are loaded with flavor. The best examples are a tantalizing red snapper in a Bahamian pepper and thyme sauce. Chicken breast appears in a savory lemon and thyme sauce, and there are all means of steaks, including a grilled sirloin served with baked potato topped with a dollop of sour cream. A selection of seafood and pasta dishes also appears daily. If you want to drink your dessert, consider a China Beach, a chocolate-laced affair that’s made with crème de cacao, Kahlúa, and Carolans Irish cream.

In the Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya, Royal Palm Way, Lucaya. & 242/373-1333. Main courses $15–$21 AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–10:30am and 5:30–9:30pm.

Captain’s Charthouse Restaurant INTERNATIONAL In a casual, treetop-level dining room, guests can select from a menu of

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1950s favorites, such as prime rib of beef, teriyaki steak, and grouper filet, along with some other good seafood dishes. You don’t come here for New Wave cooking; this is the place for the old standards that mom and pop enjoyed. The chunky lobster thermidor, baked in its shell, is a taste treat. Meals are served with tasty homemade bread and a do-it-yourself salad bar. Portions are large, but if you still have an appetite, the homemade desserts include Key lime pie. A happy hour is held in the Mates Lounge from 5 to 7pm, with complimentary hors d’oeuvres. In winter, there’s nightly entertainment and courtesy transportation to and from your hotel. E. Sunrise Hwy. and Beach Dr. & 242/373-3900. Early-bird dinner $7–$16 (5–6:30pm); main courses $16–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm (last seating).

China Beach ASIAN FUSION At the Westin & Sheraton, you can cruise the Pacific Rim, feasting on exotic delights, including the spicy hot cuisines of Vietnam and Thailand, with calls at Korea, Indonesia, and Malaysia. The menu changes every month but some dishes appear with regularity. Our favorites among these are a savory Hong Kong roast duckling and a zesty Thai chicken. The beef marinated in soy sauce is served with fresh spring onion, and the grouper filet appears with fresh ginger and scallions. Other Far East specialties include a seafood teppanyaki and stir-fry conch. At the Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya. & 242/373-1333. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–10:30pm.

Churchill’s AMERICAN One of the island’s most elegant restaurants, Churchill’s lures discerning palates to Our Lucaya— even guests staying in Freeport. We like to arrive early for drinks in the colonial-style bar with its dark wood floors, potted plants, and ceiling fans, even a grand piano. (All the setting needs to feel complete is a new Bogie-and-Ingrid-Bergman combo willing to remake Casablanca on-site.) This is the island’s best chophouse, featuring both succulent steaks flown over from the mainland and locally caught seafood. The manor house setting is a perfect foil for the finely honed service and top quality ingredients, deftly prepared. At the Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya. & 242/373-1333. Reservations required. Main courses $8.75–$65. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–11pm.

Oasis Café

Kids BAHAMIAN/AMERICAN This restaurant on the lobby of the Royal Oasis resort adjoins the casino. As you eat, you can view the gamblers winning and losing (mostly the latter). If you order a la carte, the menu consists mainly of snacks and sandwiches. But many diners come here for the hot and cold dishes on

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the buffet. The chefs do a good job with their roasting at night, especially with the prime rib, which can be carved for you. Homemade soups are featured daily, and there are many choices of fresh salads and tasty desserts. The best time to come for island flair and fun is on Bahamian night each Friday. At the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, The Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. & 242/ 350-7000. Buffet lunch $17.50–$18.50 daily; buffet dinner $22.50 daily. AE, DC, MC, V. Call for hours.

Palm Grill & Coconut Bar BAHAMIAN/INTERNATIONAL/ SEAFOOD Off the lobby at the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, this eatery offers two distinct dining experiences. The Palm Grill is a fashionable bistro with tables inside or out; the kitchen serves a beautifully roasted prime rib at whatever doneness you prefer, fettuccine Alfredo with the tantalizing addition of fresh shrimp, and Bahamian snapper cooked just right—still moist—and served with grilled vegetables. At the more convivial Coconut Bar, you can order your fill of well-stuffed sandwiches, juicy burgers and fries, freshly made salads, and, of course, conch and other main courses from the same kitchen. Crown Plaza at Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, The Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. & 242/350-7000. Palm Grill lunch main courses $6.25–$12; dinner main courses $12–$22. Coconut Bar main courses $7.50–$18. AE, DC, MC, V. Palm Grill daily 6:30–11:30am, noon–3pm, and 5:30–11pm. Coconut Bar daily 10am–1am.

Paradiso

ITALIAN This is an oasis of fine Italian dining, its setting of dark woods and high booths both elegant and tasteful. As you enjoy an aperitif, peruse the menu of selections representing some of the best recipes from the Italian kitchen. Veal saltimbocca (the word literally means “jump in your mouth”) is a concoction with cheese and ham, and is most rewarding, as is the marinated filet mignon wrapped in pancetta. Nothing is finer nor more expensive than the lobster al Sardinia (with fresh tomatoes and vegetables). Dishes for the most part, are spiced, flavored, and sauced, especially the tender cutlets of oregano-flavored scaloppine and the fettuccine with “fruits of the sea,” including Bahamian conch, scallops, lobster, and shrimp (among other seafood). Waiters are prompt and attentive, and there’s a good wine list.

Crown Plaza at Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino. & 242/352-7000. Reservations required. Main courses $18–$22. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues, Thurs–Sun 5:30–11pm.

Prop Club AMERICAN/INTERNATIONAL With a name like Prop Club, you expect a kind of laid-back airplane hangar decor.

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Instead, you get parts of aircraft that crashed off the coast of Grand Bahama Island. When the weather’s right, which it is most of the time, large doors open to bring the outdoors inside, and the party overflows onto the beach. This is not the most enticing menu on the island, but the place is a lot of fun—and the offerings far exceed most pub grub. Dig into a “mountain of ribs,” or else savor the crab cakes (which actually contain a lot of crab, not just stuffing). Ever had a grilled margarita chicken sandwich? You can order one here, along with juicy burgers, fajitas, and the like. At the Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya. $12–$23. AE, DC, MC, V. Call for hours.

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242/373-1333. Main courses

AT PORT LUCAYA MARKETPLACE EXPENSIVE Luciano’s CONTINENTAL Its tables usually occupied by local

government officials and deal makers, Luciano’s is the grande dame of Freeport restaurants, with a very European atmosphere. It’s the only restaurant in Port Lucaya offering caviar, foie gras, and bouillabaisse, all served with a flourish by a formally dressed waitstaff wearing black and white. You can go early and enjoy a cocktail in the little bar inside or on the wooden deck overlooking the marina. Lightly smoked and thinly sliced salmon makes a good opener, as do snails in garlic butter. Fresh fish and shellfish are regularly featured and delicately prepared, allowing their natural flavors to shine through, with no heavy, overwhelming sauces. Steak Diane is one of Luciano’s classics, along with an especially delectable prime rib of beef. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-9100. Reservations required. Main courses $21–$59. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm (last seating).

M O D E R AT E Ferry House

Kids BAHAMIAN/CONTINENTAL This restaurant’s bar floats on pontoons, beneath a canvas canopy, above the waters of Bell Channel, the waterway that funnels boats from the open sea into the sheltered confines of Port Lucaya Marina. On the waterside deck, you can order breakfast every day between 7 and 10am, joining a crowd of locals. Lunches are relatively simple affairs, consisting of pastas, catch of the day, and meal-size salads. Dinner might feature a seafood platter laden with calamari, fish, and shrimp; a delectable broiled chicken breast stuffed with crabmeat or shrimp; fresh salmon with hollandaise sauce; and savory grilled lamb chops with garlic sauce. But our favorite meal here is the ginger and honey glazed tiger shrimps with a lobster bisque.

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Beside Bell Channel, Port Lucaya. & 242/373-1595. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch platters $9–$18; dinner main courses $19–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm and Tues–Sun 6–9pm.

Giovanni’s Cafe

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD Tucked away into one of the pedestrian thoroughfares of Port Lucaya Marketplace, you’ll find a yellow-sided clapboard house that opens into a charming 38seat Italian trattoria. The chefs (including head chef Giovanni Colo) serve Italian-influenced preparations of local seafood, specializing in seafood pasta (usually prepared only for two diners) and a lobster special. Giovanni stamps each dish with his Italian verve and flavor whether it be Bahamian conch, local seafood, or scampi. Dishes show off his precision and rock-solid technique, exemplified by sirloin steak with fresh mushrooms, delectable shrimp scampi, and fattening but extremely good spaghetti carbonara.

Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-9107. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $5–$8.50; dinner main courses $11–$20. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–10pm.

La Dolce Vita ITALIAN Next to the Pub at Lucaya (see below), this small upscale Italian restaurant has a modern decor and traditional food. Enjoy freshly made pastas and Italian-style pizzas on a patio overlooking the marina or in the 44-seat dining room. Start with portobello mushrooms, fresh mozzarella with tomatoes, and a vinaigrette, or else carpaccio with arugula and spices. Homemade ravioli appears with different fillings such as cheese, lobster, or spinach. An excellent risotto flavored with black ink is served, or else you can order roast pork tenderloin or a crisp and perfectly flavored rack of lamb. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8652. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Closed Sept.

Pisces

BAHAMIAN/INTERNATIONAL This is our favorite among the many restaurants in the Port Lucaya Marketplace, and we’re seconded by a healthy mix of locals and yacht owners who pack the place every weekend. Decorated with Tiffany-style lamps and captain’s chairs, it boasts the most charming waitstaff on Grand Bahama Island. Lunches are relatively simple affairs, with fish and chips, sandwiches, and salads. Pizzas are available anytime and come in 21 different types, including a version with conch, lobster, shrimp, and chicken. Dinners are more elaborate, with a choice of curries (including a version with conch); lobster in cream, wine, and herb sauce; all kinds of fish and shellfish; and several kinds of pasta.

Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-5192. Reservations recommended. Pizzas $3–$27.; dinner main courses $13–$30 AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5pm–2am.

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Pub at Lucaya ENGLISH/BAHAMIAN

Opening onto Count Basie Square, this restaurant and bar lies at the center of the Port Lucaya Marketplace. Returning visitors might remember the joint when it was called Pusser’s Pub, named after that popular brand of rum. You can come here to eat, but many patrons visit just for the drinks, especially rum-laced Pusser’s Painkillers. You can order predictable pub grub such as shepherd’s pie or steak-and-ale pie. Juicy American-style burgers are another lure. But you can also dine on substantial Bahamian fare at night, especially Bahamian lobster tail, cracked conch, or the fresh grilled catch of the day. The tables outside overlooking the water are preferred, or else you can retreat inside under a wooden beamed ceiling, where the rustic tables are lit by faux Tiffany-style lamps.

Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8450. Sandwiches and burgers $6–$12; main courses $10–$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–1am.

Shenanigan’s Irish Pub CONTINENTAL

Dark and beerstained from the thousands of pints of Guinness, Harp, and Killian’s that have been served and spilled here, this is the premier Irish or Boston Irish hangout on Grand Bahama Island. Many visitors come just to drink, sometimes for hours at a time, soaking up the suds, and perhaps remembering to eventually order some food. If you get hungry, there’s surf and turf, French-style rack of lamb for two, seafood Newburg, and several preparations of chicken.

Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-4734. Main courses $12–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10:30am–midnight; Fri–Sat 10:30am–2am.

INEXPENSIVE Fatman’s Nephew

BAHAMIAN In another location, “Fatman” became a legend on Grand Bahama Island. Although he’s no longer with us, the Fatman must have left his recipes and cooking skills to another generation of cooks. Today the place, which used to cater mainly to locals, has gone touristy, but much of the same traditional fare is still served with the same unflagging allegiance to Bahamian ways. The restaurant overlooks the marina at Port Lucaya from an eagle’s-nest position on the second floor. You can enjoy drinks or meals inside, but we like to head out to an outdoor covered deck to watch the action below. There are usually at least eight kinds of game fish, including both wahoo and Cajun blackened kingfish, plus curried chicken, mutton, or beef. Bahamian-style shark soup, made from the flesh of hammerheads (“little tender

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ones,” according to the chef ), is sometimes featured on the menu. Most dishes, except for expensive shellfish, fall at the lower end of the price scale. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8520. Main courses $5–$35. DISC, MC, V. Mon and Thurs–Sat 10am–midnight; Tues–Wed and Sun 5pm–midnight.

Georgie’s BAHAMIAN/AMERICAN

This laid-back, informal restaurant allows you to dine harborside at Port Lucaya for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It gets particularly busy at happy hour in the late afternoon when prices on drinks are reduced. Service shows more effort than polish, but dishes do arrive and they are quite flavorful time-tested recipes, a repertoire of old favorites like cracked conch (similar to breaded veal cutlet) served with tasty coleslaw. The catch of the day is usually pan-fried grouper or snapper served with peas ’n’ rice. The chef almost daily prepares hot roast beef, serving it with mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables; for lunch, try one of the island’s better chef ’s salads, loaded with turkey, ham, fresh tomatoes, cheese, and other good things. Other favorites here include fresh lobster, conch fritters, and barbecue chicken.

Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8513. Lunch main courses $78–$11; dinner main courses $8–$17. DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

Outrigger’s Native Restaurant/White Wave Club BAHAMIAN Cement-sided and simple, with a large deck extending out toward the sea, this restaurant was here long before the construction of the nearby Port Lucayan Marketplace, which lies only 4 blocks away. The restaurant area is the domain of Gretchen Wilson, whose kitchens produce a rotating series of dishes that include such lip-smacking dishes as lobster tails, minced lobster, steamed or cracked conch, pork chops, chicken, fish, and shrimp, usually served with peas ’n’ rice and macaroni. Every Wednesday night, from 6pm to 1am, the restaurant is the venue for “Outrigger’s Famous Wednesday Night Fish Fry,” when as many as a thousand diners will line up for platters of fried or steamed fish, priced at $10 each, which are accompanied by live music. Drinks are served within the restaurant, but at any time of the week, you might consider stepping into the nearby ramshackle bar, the White Wave Club, which serves only drinks. Smith’s Point. 4pm–1am.

& 242/373-4811. Main courses $8–$15. No credit cards. Daily

Zorba’s Greek Cuisine BAHAMIAN/GREEK First thing in the morning, you’ll see locals standing in line for the Bahamian breakfasts served at Zorba’s. From chicken souse to corned beef and grits,

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all the island eye-openers are on the menu. Eggs and fluffy Greek pastries snag less daring early risers. Lunch could be a fat gyro or a souvlakia kebab. Dinner can begin with a Greek salad and then move on to moussaka, with baklava for a sweet finish. We won’t pretend the food here is like a trip to the Greek isles, but it’s satisfying and filling. At this casual dining spot, you can eat either inside or enjoy your meal al fresco. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-6137. Lunch main courses $7–$13; dinner main courses $10–$23. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

OUTSIDE FREEPORT/LUCAYA Bishop’s Restaurant

For those real Finds BAHAMIAN down-home favorite dishes, known mainly by locals, this is a little known East End favorite. The restaurant opens onto views of the sea. Far from the high-rise hotels, this little restaurant and lounge looks the way they did in The Bahamas of the 1920s and 1930s. Some of the best cracked conch we’ve sampled on Grand Bahama Island is served here, rolled in a light batter and fried in piping hot oil so that its crust is slightly crunchy. Another favorite, always on the menu, is fried grouper with classic peas ’n’ rice. Or, for a savory dish, order the chicken barbecued in zesty sauce. High Rock. 9am–9pm.

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242/353-4515. Main courses $9–$12. No credit cards. Daily

Club Caribe AMERICAN/BAHAMIAN Set about 11km (7 miles) east of the International Bazaar, beside a beach and an offshore reef that teems with underwater life, this restaurant is a funky and offbeat charmer. You can spend a day on the beach here, renting the club’s snorkeling equipment, sunbathing or swimming, and perhaps enjoying one of the house-special cocktails (try a Caribe Delight, made with bananas, banana-flavored liqueur, and rum). When it’s lunchtime, you might order up a heaping platter of cracked conch; barbecued ribs; snapper or grouper that’s fried, steamed, or grilled; or a sandwich or salad. This place is simple, outdoorsy, and a refreshing change from the more congested parts of Grand Bahama. Churchill Beach, Mather Town, off Midshipman Rd. & 242/373-6866. Lunch $5–$14; main courses $7.50–$35. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm.

5 Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits HITTING THE BEACH Grand Bahama Island has enough beaches for everyone, the best ones opening onto Northwest Providence Channel at Freeport and

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sweeping east for some 97km (60 miles) to encompass Xanadu Beach, Lucayan Beach, Taíno Beach, and others, eventually ending at such remote eastern outposts as Rocky Creek and McLean’s Town. Once you leave the Freeport/Lucaya area, you can virtually have your pick of white sandy beaches all the way east. Once you’re past the resort hotels, you’ll see a series of secluded beaches used mainly by locals. If you like people, a lot of organized watersports, and easy access to hotel bars and restrooms, stick to Xanadu, Taíno, and Lucayan beaches. Though there’s fine snorkeling offshore, you should book a snorkeling cruise aboard one of the catamarans offered by Paradise Watersports (see below) to see the most stunning reefs. Xanadu Beach is one of our favorite beaches, immediately east of Freeport and the site of the famed Xanadu Beach Resort. The beach may be crowded at times in winter, but that’s because of those gorgeous, soft, powdery white sands, which open onto tranquil waters. The beach is set against a backdrop of coconut palms and Australian pines. You can hook up here with some of the best watersports on the island, including snorkeling, boating, jet skiing, and parasailing. Immediately east of Xanadu is Silver Point Beach, a little white sandy beach, site of a timeshare complex where guests are out riding the waves on water bikes or playing volleyball on the beach. You’ll see horseback riders from Pinetree Stables (see below) taking beach rides along the sands. Most visitors will be found at Lucayan Beach, right off Royal Palm Way and immediately east of Silver Point Beach. This is one of the best beaches in The Bahamas, with kilometers of white sand. It might be crowded for a few weeks in winter, but in general there is beach-blanket space for all. At any of the hotel resorts along this beach, you can hook up with an array of watersports or get a frosty drink from a hotel bar. It’s not for those seeking seclusion, but it’s a fun beach-party scene. Immediately to the east of Lucayan Beach is Taíno Beach, a family favorite and a good place for watersports. This, too, is a fine, wide beach of white sands, opening onto generally tranquil waters. Another choice not too far east is Gold Rock Beach, a favorite picnic spot with locals on weekends, although you’ll usually have this beach to yourself on weekdays. Gold Rock Beach is a 19km (12mile) drive from Lucaya. At Gold Rock you are at the doorstep to the Lucayan National Park (see below), a 16-hectare (40-acre) park

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filled with some of the longest, widest, and most fabulous secluded beaches on the island.

BOAT CRUISES Ocean Wonder, Port Lucaya Dock (& 242/373-5880), run by Reef Tours, is supposedly the world’s largest twin-diesel-engine glass-bottom boat. Any tour agent can arrange for you to go out on this vessel. You’ll get a panoramic view of the beautiful underwater life that lives off the coast of Grand Bahama. Cruises depart from Port Lucaya behind the Straw Market on the bay side at 9:30, 11:15am, 1:15pm, and 3:15pm, except Monday and Friday, when only two tours leave at 9:30 and 11:15am. The tour lasts 11⁄ 2 hours, costs $25 for adults and $15 for children 6 to 12, and is free for children 5 and under. When calling for a reservation, confirm the departure times mentioned above, because there may be seasonal variations. Superior Watersports (P.O. Box F-40837, Freeport; & 242/3737863), offers trips on its Bahama Mama, a two-deck 22m (72-ft.) catamaran. Its Robinson Crusoe Beach Party, offered daily from 11am to 4pm, costs $59 per person. There’s also a sunset booze cruise that goes for $35. (In summer, these cruises are on Tues, Thurs, and Sat night from 6–8pm.) For an underwater cruise, try the company’s quasi-submarine, the Seaworld Explorer. The sub itself does not descend; instead, you walk down into the hull of the boat and watch the sea life glide by. The “sub” departs daily at 9:30 and 11:30am, and 1:30pm, and it costs $39 for adults and $25 for children 12 and under.

THE DOLPHIN EXPERIENCE A pod of bottle-nosed dolphins is involved in a unique dolphin/human familiarization program at Dolphin Experience, located at Underwater Explorers Society (UNEXSO), next to Port Lucaya, opposite Lucayan Beach Casino (& 888/365-3483 or 242/373-1250). This “close encounter” program viewed as “politically incorrect” by some groups allows participants to observe these intelligent and friendly animals close up and to hear an interesting talk by a member of the animal-care staff. This project seems very eco-sensitive; this is the world’s largest dolphin facility, so there are no cramped conditions. Dolphins can swim out to sea, and if they don’t like the project, they could in theory never return to it. But they seem to enjoy interacting with humans and do return. You can step onto a shallow wading platform and interact with the dolphins;

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the experience costs $59 and is a highly educational, yet fun adventure for all ages. Children under 5 participate free. You’ll want to bring your camera. An “Assistant Trainer” program is an all-day interactive experience in which a maximum of four people, ages 16 or older, learn about dolphins and marine mammals from behind the scenes. Participants help feed the animals and swim with them for a cost of $219. Dolphins also swim out from Sanctuary Bay daily to interact with scuba divers from UNEXSO in a “Dolphin Dive” program, costing $169.

FISHING In the waters off Grand Bahama, you can fish for barracuda, snapper, grouper, yellowtail, wahoo, and kingfish, along with other denizens of the deep. Reef Tours, Ltd., Port Lucaya Dock (& 242/373-5880), offers one of the least expensive ways to go deep-sea fishing around Grand Bahama Island. Adults pay $80 if they fish, $45 if they only go along to watch. Four to six people can charter the entire 42-foot craft for $480 per half day or $950 per whole day. The 32-footer can be chartered for $320 half day and $620 for a whole day. Departures for the half-day excursion are at 8:30am and 1pm, 7 days a week. Bait, tackle, and ice are included in the cost.

GOLF This island boasts more golf links than any other in The Bahamas. The courses are within 11km (7 miles) of one another, and you usually won’t have to wait to play. All courses are open to the public year-round, and clubs can be rented from all pro shops on the island.

Moments Land & Sea Eco-tours If you’re a nature lover, escape from the casinos and take one of the East End Adventures (& 242/373-6662 or 242/373-1652; www.bahamasecotours.com/safari.cfm) bush and sea safaris. You’re taken through dense pine forests and along deserted beaches, going inland on hikes to such sites as blue holes, mangrove swamps, and underground caverns. You may even learn how to crack conch. A native lunch is served on a serene beach in Lightbourne’s Cay, a remote islet in the East End. Most of the tour is laid-back, as you can snorkel in blue holes or shell hunt. Safaris are conducted daily between 8am and 5:30pm, costing adults $110 and kids ages 2 to 12 $55.

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Bahamia’s Emerald Golf Course, the Mall South, at the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino (& 242/350-7000), was the site of The Bahamas National. Open some years back, and more recently, in conjunction with the Ruby course (see below), it’s the site of the annual January Grand Bahama Pro-Am Tournament. The course has plenty of trees along the fairways, as well as an abundance of water hazards and bunkers. The toughest hole is the ninth, a par 5 with 545 yards from the blue tees to the hole. In winter, greens fees to either of these courses are $95 per day, reduced to $85 in summer. The championship course Bahamia’s Ruby Golf Course, Sunrise Highway, also at Royal Oasis Resort & Casino (& 242/350-7000), received a major upgrade in 2001 by Jim Fazio Golf Design, Inc. The Ruby course was lengthened to increase the rating and to enhance play. A fully automated irrigation system was installed. For greens fees, see the Emerald Golf Course, above. It’s a total of 6,750 yards if played from the championship blue tees. Fortune Hills Golf & Country Club, Richmond Park, Lucaya (& 242/373-4500), was originally intended to be an 18-hole course, but the back 9 were never completed. You can replay the front 9 for 18 holes and a total of 6,916 yards from the blue tees. Par is 72. Greens fees are $31 for 9 holes, $43 for 18. Electric carts cost $34 and $44 for 9 and 18 holes, respectively. The best-kept and most-manicured course on Grand Bahama is the Lucayan Park Golf & Country Club, Lucaya Beach (& 242/ 373-1066). Recently made over, it is quite beautiful and is known for a hanging boulder sculpture at its entrance. Greens are fast, and there are a couple of par 5s more than 500 yards long, totaling 6,824 yards from the blue tees and 6,488 from the whites. Par is 72. Greens fees are $65 for 18 holes. This includes a mandatory shared golf cart. We’ll let you in on a secret: Even if you’re not a golfer, sample the food at the club restaurant—everything from lavish champagne brunches to first-rate seafood dishes. The first golf course to open in The Bahamas since 1969 made its premiere late in 2000. The Reef Course at Royal Palm Way, Lucaya (& 242/373-2002), was designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., who called it “a bit like a Scottish course but a lot warmer.” The course requires precise shot-making to avoid its numerous lakes: There is water on 13 of its 18 holes and various types of long grass swaying in the trade winds. The course boasts 6,920 yards of linksstyle playing grounds. Residents of Our Lucaya, with which

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the course is associated, pay $65 for 18 holes or $40 for 9 holes. Nonresidents are charged $120 for 18 holes, but the same price, $65, for 9 holes.

HORSEBACK RIDING The Pinetree Stables, North Beachway Drive, Freeport (& 242/ 373-3600), are the best riding stables in The Bahamas, superior to rivals on New Providence Island (Nassau). Pinetree offers trail rides to the beach in winter Tuesday through Sunday at 9am, 11:30am, and 2pm, but only at 9am and 11am off-season. The cost is $65 per person for a ride lasting 2 hours. No children under 8 are allowed. There is a 200-pound weight limit per person.

SEA KAYAKING If you’d like to explore the waters off the island’s north shore, call Kayak Nature Tours (& 242/373-2485), who’ll take you on trips through the mangroves, where you can see wildlife as you paddle along. The cost is $69 per person, and trips are offered daily from 9am to 4pm, with a meal included. Both single and double kayaks are used on these jaunts, and children must be at least 5 years of age.

SNORKELING & SCUBA DIVING Serious divers are attracted to such Grand Bahama sites as the Wall, the Caves, Theo’s Wreck, and Treasure Reef. Other sites frequented by UNEXSO include Spit City, Ben Blue Hole, and the Rose Garden. Keep in mind that UNEXSO’s specialty is diving, while Paradise Watersports primarily entertains snorkelers. Paradise Watersports, located at the Xanadu Beach Resort & Marina (& 242/352-2887), offers a variety of activities. On the snorkeling trips, you cruise to a coral reef on a 14m (48-ft.) catamaran, “Lady Paradise.” The cost is $30 per person. Kayaks rent for $8 for a half hour, $12 per hour, and water-skiing is priced at $20 for a 2.5km (11⁄ 2-mile) ride. Parasailing costs $50 for a 5-minute ride. See “Boat Cruises,” above, for their offerings. Underwater Explorers Society (UNEXSO) (& 888/3653483 or 242/373-1250) is one of the premier dive outfitters in The Bahamas and the Caribbean. There are seven dive trips daily, including reef trips, shark dives, wreck dives, and night dives. This is also the only facility in the world where divers can dive with dolphins in the open ocean (see “The Dolphin Experience,” above). A popular 3-hour learn-to-dive course is offered daily. Over UNEXSO’s 30-year history, more than 50,000 people have

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successfully completed this course. For $99, students learn the basics in UNEXSO’s training pools. Then, the same day, they dive the beautiful shallow reef with their instructor.

6 Seeing the Sights Several informative tours of Grand Bahama Island are offered. One reliable company is H. Forbes Charter Services Ltd., the Mall at West Sunrise Highway, Freeport (& 242/352-9311; www.forbes charter.com). From headquarters in the International Bazaar, this company offers half- and full-day bus tours. The most popular option is the half-day Super Combination Tour, priced at $35 per adult and $25 per child under 12. It includes guided visits to the botanical gardens, drive-through tours of residential areas and the island’s commercial center, and stops at the island’s deep-water harbor. Shopping and a visit to a wholesale liquor store are also included on the tour. Departures are Monday through Saturday at 9am and 1pm; the tour lasts 31⁄ 2 hours. See also “Beaches, Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits,” above, for details on UNEXSO’s Dolphin Experience, and “Shopping,” below, for coverage of the International Bazaar and the Port Lucaya Marketplace. Hydroflora Gardens At this artificially created botanical wonder, you can see 154 specimens of plants that grow in The Bahamas. A special section is devoted to bush medicine, which is widely practiced by Bahamians (who have been using herbs and other plants to cure everything from sunburn to insomnia since the native Lucayans were here centuries ago). A guided tour starts at 10:30am and costs $6 per person. On East Beach at Sunrise Hwy. & 242/352-6052. Admission $3 adults, $1.50 children. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm; Sat 9am–4pm.

Lucayan National Park

This 16-hectare (40-acre) park, filled with mangrove, pine, and palm trees, contains one of the loveliest, most secluded beaches on Grand Bahama, a long, wide, dune-covered stretch of sandy beach that you’ll reach by following a wooden path winding through the trees. There’s a coral reef offshore; bring your snorkeling gear along so you can glimpse the colorful creatures that live beneath these turquoise waters. As you wander through the park, you’ll cross Gold Rock Creek, fed by a spring from what is said to be the world’s largest underground freshwater cavern system. Two of the caves can be seen, because they were exposed when a portion

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of ground collapsed. The pools in the caves are composed of 2m (6 ft.) of freshwater atop a heavier layer of saltwater. Spiral wooden steps have been built down to the pools, and there are 36,000 passages in the cavern system. The freshwater springs once lured native Lucayans, those Arawak-connected tribes who lived on the island and depended on fishing for their livelihood. They would come inland to get fresh water for their habitats on the beach. Lucayan bones and artifacts, such as pottery, have been found in the caves, as well as on the beaches. Settlers Way & 242/352-5438. Admission $3; tickets available only at the Rand Memorial Nature Centre (see below). Daily 9am–4pm. Drive east along Midshipman Rd., passing Sharp Rock Point and Gold Rock.

Parrot Jungle’s Garden of the Groves

Kids One of the island’s major attractions is this 12-acre garden, which honors its founder, Wallace Groves, and his wife, Georgette. Eleven kilometers (7 miles) east of the International Bazaar, this scenic preserve of waterfalls and flowering shrubs has some 10,000 trees. Tropical birds flock here, making this a lure for bird-watchers and ornithologists. There are free-form lakes, footbridges, ornamental borders, lawns, and flowers. Parrot Jungle of Miami, the new managers, have introduced a number of animals to the site, including macaws, cockatoos, pygmy goats, potbelly pigs, and American alligators. Other species introduced include the park’s first Bahamian raccoons and the white-crowned pigeon, the latter on the endangered species list. The park also has a children’s playground. A lovely little nondenominational chapel, open to visitors, looks down on the garden from a hill. The Palmetto Café (& 242/373-5668) serves snacks and drinks, and a Bahamian straw market is located at the entrance gate.

Midshipman Rd. and Magellan Dr. & 242/373-5668. www.gardenofthegroves.com. Admission $9.95 adults, $6.95 children 3–10, free for children under 3. Garden daily 9am–4pm; Palmetto Café daily 9am–4pm.

Rand Memorial Nature Centre

This 100-acre pineland sanctuary, located 3km (2 miles) east of the center of Freeport, is the regional headquarters of The Bahamas National Trust, a nonprofit conservation organization. Nature trails highlight native flora and “bush medicine” and provide opportunities for bird-watching; as you stroll, keep your eyes peeled for the lush blooms of tropical orchids or the brilliant flash of green and red feathers in the trees. Wild birds abound at the park, and a freshwater pond is home to a flock of West Indian pink flamingos, the national bird of The

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Bahamas. There is a bird-watching tour on the first Saturday of every month at 8am and a wildflower walk on the last Saturday of the month, also starting at 8am. Other features of the nature center include native animal displays, an education center, and a gift shop selling nature books and souvenirs. E. Settlers Way. & 242/352-5438. Admission $5 adults, $3 children 5–12, free for children under 5. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm. Guided tours must call in advance to book.

7 Shopping Shopping hours in Freeport/Lucaya are 9:30am to 3pm Monday through Thursday, 9:30am to 5pm on Friday. Many shops are closed on Saturday and Sunday. However, in the International Bazaar, hours vary widely. Most places there are open Monday through Saturday. Some begin business daily at 9:30am; others don’t open until 10am, and closing time ranges from 5:30 to 6pm.

THE INTERNATIONAL BAZAAR One of the world’s most unusual shopping complexes, the International Bazaar, at East Mall Drive and East Sunrise Highway, covers 4 hectares (10 acres) in the heart of Freeport. Although it remains one of the most visited sites in The Bahamas, it frankly is a bit tarnished today and is due for a makeover. Looking better every day is its rising competitor, the Port Lucaya Marketplace (see below). There is a major bus stop at the entrance of the complex. Buses aren’t numbered, but those marked INTERNATIONAL BAZAAR will take you right to the gateway. Visitors walk through the much-photographed Torii Gate, a Japanese symbol of welcome, into a miniature World’s Fair setting (think of it as a kitschy Bahamian version of Epcot). Continental cafes and dozens of shops loaded with merchandise await visitors. The bazaar blends architecture and cultures from some 25 countries, each re-created with cobblestones, narrow alleys, and authentically reproduced architecture. True, it’s more theme-park-style shopping than authentic Bahamian experience, but it’s fun nevertheless. In the nearly 100 shops, you’re bound to find something that is both unique and a bargain. Here you’ll find African handcrafts, Chinese jade, British china, Swiss watches, Irish linens, and Colombian emeralds— and that’s just for starters. The Straw Market, next door to the International Bazaar, contains items with a special Bahamian touch—colorful baskets, hats, handbags, and place mats—all of which make good gifts or

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souvenirs from your trip. (Be aware that some items sold here are actually made in Asia.) Here’s a description of the various shops in the bazaar. ART Flovin Gallery

This gallery sells original Bahamian and international art, frames, lithographs, posters, and Bahamian-made Christmas ornaments and decorated coral. It also offers handmade Bahamian dolls, coral jewelry, and other gift items. Another branch is at the Port Lucaya Marketplace (see below). In the Arcade section of

the International Bazaar. & 242/352-7564.

C R Y S TA L & C H I N A Island Galleria There’s an awesome collection of crystal here.

Fragile, breakable, and beautiful, it includes works of utilitarian art in china and crystal by Waterford, Aynsley, Lenox, Dansk, and Swarovski. Anything you buy can be carefully packed and shipped. Another branch is located in the Port Lucaya Marketplace (& 242/ 373-8400). International Bazaar. & 242/352-8194. FA S H I O N Cleo’s Boutique

This shop offers everything from eveningwear to lingerie, and all in between. A warm and inviting destination, Cleo’s prides itself on capturing the Caribbean woman in all of her moods. You can also find a wide array of costume jewelry beginning at $25 per piece. International Bazaar. & 242/351-3340. HANDICRAFTS & GIFTS Bahamian Souvenir Outlet This place, just below the Ministry

of Tourism, has lots of inexpensive souvenirs and gifts: the usual array of T-shirts, key rings, mugs, and all that stuff. International Bazaar. & 242/352-2947.

Caribbean Cargo

This is one of the island’s best gift shops, specializing in such items as picture frames, candles, clocks, and clothes. In the Arcade section of the International Bazaar. & 242/352-2929. Far East Traders Look for Asian linens, hand-embroidered dresses and blouses, silk robes, lace parasols, smoking jackets, and kimonos here. There’s also a branch location inside the Island Galleria at the Port Lucaya Marketplace. International Bazaar. & 242/352-9280. Paris in The Bahamas This shop contains the biggest selection of luxury goods under one roof in the International Bazaar. The staff wears couture black dresses like you might have expected in Paris,

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and everywhere there’s a sense of French glamour and conspicuous consumption. There are both Gucci and Versace leather goods for men and women; crystal from Lalique, Baccarat, Daum, and Kosta Boda, and a huge collection of cosmetics and perfumes. International Bazaar. & 242/352-5380.

Unusual Centre Where else can you get a wide array of items made of eel skin or goods made from exotic feathers such as peacock? There’s another branch at the Port Lucaya Marketplace (& 242/352-3994). International Bazaar. & 242/352-3994.

JEWELRY Colombian Emeralds International This is a branch of the

world’s foremost emerald jeweler, offering a wide array of precious gemstone jewelry and one of the island’s best watch collections. Careful shoppers will find significant savings over U.S. prices. The outlet offers certified appraisals and free 90-day insurance. There are also two more branches at the Port Lucaya Marketplace (& 242/373-8400). South American Section of the International Bazaar. www.dutyfree.com.

&

242/352-5464.

PERFUMES & FRAGRANCES Les Parisiennes This outlet offers a wide range of perfumes,

including the latest from Paris, and it also sells Lancôme cosmetics and skin-care products. There’s a branch office at the Port Lucaya Marketplace (& 242/373-2974). In the French section of the International Bazaar. & 242/352-5380.

The Perfume Factory Fragrance of The Bahamas This is the top fragrance producer in The Bahamas. The shop is housed in a model of an 1800s mansion, in which visitors are invited to hear a 5-minute commentary and to see the mixing of fragrant oils. There’s even a “mixology” department where you can create your own fragrance from a selection of oils. The shop’s well-known products include Island Promises, Goombay, Paradise, and Pink Pearl (with conch pearls in the bottle). The shop also sells Guanahani, created to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s first landfall, and Sand, the leading Bahamian-made men’s fragrance. At the rear of the International Bazaar. & 242/352-9391. www.perfumefactory.com.

PORT LUCAYA MARKETPLACE Port Lucaya Marketplace on Seahorse Road is a shopping and dining complex set on 2.4 hectares (6 acres). Free entertainment, such as steel-drum bands and strolling musicians, adds to a festival

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atmosphere. A boardwalk along the water makes it easy to watch the frolicking dolphins. The complex rose on the site of a former Bahamian straw market, but the craftspeople and their straw products are back in full force after having been temporarily dislodged. The waterfront location is a distinct advantage. Many of the restaurants and shops overlook a 50-slip marina, home of a “fantasy” pirate ship featuring lunch and dinner/dancing cruises. A variety of charter vessels are also based at the Port Lucaya Marina, and dockage at the marina is available to visitors coming by boat to shop or dine. Bandolera The staff can be rather haughty here, but despite its drawbacks, this store carries a collection of chic women’s clothing that’s many, many cuts above the usual run of T-shirts and tank tops that are the norm within many of its competitors. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-7691.

Coconits by Androsia This is the Port Lucaya outlet of the famous batik house of Andros Island. Its designs and colors capture the spirit of The Bahamas. Fabrics are handmade on the island of Andros. The store sells quality, 100%-cotton resort wear, including simple skirts, tops, jackets, and shorts for women, and it also offers a colorful line of children’s wear. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8387. Flovin Gallery II This branch of the art gallery located in the Port Lucaya Marketplace sells a collection of oil paintings (both Bahamian and international), along with lithographs and posters. In its limited field, it’s the best in the business. It also features a number of gift items, such as handmade Bahamian dolls, decorated corals, and Christmas ornaments. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8388. Harley-Davidson of Freeport This is one of only two registered and licensed Harley outlets in The Bahamas. You can special-order a motorcycle if you feel flush with funds from a casino, but it’s more likely that you’ll content yourself with T-shirts, leather vests, belts, caps, sunglasses, and gift items. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8269. Jeweler’s Warehouse This is a place for bargain hunters looking for good buys on discounted, closeout 14-karat gold and gemstone jewelry. Discounts range up to 50%, but the quality of many of these items remains high. Guarantees and certified appraisals are possible. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-8400. UNEXSO Dive Shop This is the premier dive shop of The Bahamas. It sells everything related to the water—swimsuits, wet

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suits, underwater cameras, and video equipment, shades, hats, souvenirs, state-of-the-art diver’s equipment, and computers. Port Lucaya Marketplace. & 242/373-1250.

8 Grand Bahama After Dark Many resort hotels stage their own entertainment at night, and these shows are open to the general public.

ROLLING THE DICE Casino at Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya

This is the newest and the best casino on the island, far exceeding the glamour of the rival casino in Freeport. The casino’s 30 tables offer guests their choice of games, ranging from baccarat to Caribbean stud poker. Blackjack and roulette are also popular games of chance here; for the frugal gambler, some 400 slot machines await. The casino is open daily from 10am to 2am. Entrance is free. The Westin & Sheraton

at Our Lucaya, Royal Palm Way. & 242/373-1333.

Royal Oasis Casino

Most of the nightlife in Freeport/Lucaya centers around this glittering, giant, Moroccan-style palace, one of the largest casinos in The Bahamas and the Caribbean. Under this Moorish-domed structure, visitors play games of chance and attend Las Vegas–inspired floor shows. Open daily 10am to 2am. Entrance is free. In the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, the Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy.

& 242/350-7000. THE CLUB & BAR SCENE Located in the center of the Port Lucaya Marketplace waterfront restaurant and shopping complex, Count Basie Square contains a vine-covered bandstand where the best live music on the island is performed on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings from about 7:30 to 8pm. And it’s free! The square honors the “Count,” who used to have a grand home on Grand Bahama. Steel bands, small Junkanoo groups, and even gospel singers from a local church are likely to be heard performing here, their voices or music wafting across the 50-slip marina. There are several bars in the complex where you can sip a beer or a tropical rum concoction. (See “Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter, for details on a few of these, including Fatman’s Nephew and Shenanigan’s Irish Pub.) Club 2000/The Ruthnell Deck The setting is a sprawling green and white Bahamian-style house with a wraparound veranda, immediately adjacent to the International Bazaar. There’s a large interior

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with a dance floor that offers a high-tech lighting system and lots of gyrating bodies, but lots of people gravitate to the wraparound deck, where beer and drinks are passed through open windows to the crowd outside. Frequent contests reward anyone who qualifies for the “sexiest black dress” or “most muscular male.” It’s open daily from 10pm until at least 2am. In the International Bazaar. & 242/3512692. $10 cover for men only; women admitted free.

Holiday Inn SunSpree at the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino Inside a formidable pile, this club offers some of the best

live entertainment on the island. At the outdoorsy John B Lounge, live music is presented Wednesday through Monday. The bar lounge and adjoining dance club are open nightly from 9pm to 2am. Most visitors attend, however, for the Goombaya production on Tuesday and Saturday. If you want dinner and a show, arrive at 6:30pm; otherwise, showtime is at 7:30pm. The cost of both is $45.Or you can attend just to see the show, paying from $5 per drink. In the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, The Mall at W. Sunrise Hwy. & 242/350-7000.

Prop Club This sports bar and dance club is the most actionoriented of them all at Lucaya, and you can also dine here on hearty fare. Each night something different is happening: karaoke on Tuesday, Sumo wrestling on Wednesday, cultural show nights on Thursday, island “jam nights” on Friday, and ’70s revival nights on Saturday. But also expect a “get down with the DJ” snooze-a-thon on Sundays, and game nights on slow Mondays. The highlight is the cultural show with a live Junkanoo finale. You can also dine here, enjoying the likes of beef and chicken fajitas and baby-back ribs, paying from $10 for a full meal. For decor, as the name suggests, remnants of an old airplane and antique propellers adorn the walls. Lunch is served daily from noon to 3pm and dinner daily 6 to 10:30pm, but the bar is open 11am to 2am. The Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya, Royal Palm Way. & 242/373-1333.

Index See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes below.

GENERAL INDEX A ARP, 24, 39 Access Adventures, 22 Access America, 18 Accessible Journeys, 22 Accommodations. See also Accommodations Index best for family vacations, 5–6 best honeymoon resorts, 4–5 Cable Beach, 62–68 Grand Bahama Island, 135–145 New Providence, 55–70 Paradise Island, 105–113 tips on, 36–41 African-American travelers, 26–27 Air Canada, 28 Airfares, 29–31 Airlines, 27–28 Airport security, 28–29 Air Tickets Direct, 30 All-inclusive resort hotels, 39 American Airlines, 130 American Airlines Vacations, 34 American Express, 41, 54 traveler’s checks, 15 American Foundation for the Blind, 23 Antiques, Nassau, 95–96 Ardastra Gardens (Nassau), 90–91 Area code, 41 Art galleries Grand Bahama Island, 167 Nassau, 96 Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino, 123–124 The Atlantis Resort’s Casino and Discothéque (Paradise Island), 125–126 ATMs (automated teller machines), 13–14 Avis car rentals, 36, 133

Bahama Mama, 160 Bahamasair, 27, 35, 130 Bahamas Divers, 89, 123 The Bahamas Tourist Office, 9 Bahamian Souvenir Outlet (Freeport), 167 Bahamia’s Emerald Golf Course, 162 Bahamia’s Ruby Golf Course, 162 Balcony House (Nassau), 91 Bandolera (Lucaya), 169 Barefoot Sailing Cruises, 86 Barry’s Limited (Nassau), 97 Bars Nassau, 101–102 Paradise Island, 126–127 Beaches. See also specific beaches best, 1, 4 Grand Bahama Island, 158–160 New Providence, 85–86 Paradise Island, 122 The Beauty Spot (Nassau), 99 Bicycling, New Providence, 54 Blackbeard’s Tower (Nassau), 91 Black Travel Online, 26 Boat cruises, New Providence, 86–87 Bonneville Bones (Nassau), 97 Born Free Charters, 87 Botanical Gardens (Nassau), 92 British Airways, 28 Bucket shops, 29–30 Budget car rentals, 36 Business hours, 41 Bus travel, Grand Bahama Island, 132 C abbage Beach, 1, 122 Cable Beach, 1, 8, 85 accommodations, 62–68 restaurants, 81–83 Cable Beach Golf Course, 88 Cameras and film, New Providence, 55 Caribbean Cargo (Freeport), 167

GENERAL INDEX Car rentals, 35–36 Grand Bahama Island, 132–133 New Providence, 52–53 Casinos Grand Bahama Island, 170 Nassau, 100 Paradise Island, 106 Caves Beach, 85 Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 21 Central Bank of The Bahamas (Nassau), 92 Charlie’s on the Beach/Cocktails 7 Dreams (Nassau), 101–102 Charter flights, 30 Cigars, Nassau, 96 Cleo’s Boutique (Freeport), 167 The Cloister (Paradise Island), 124 Club Med, 35, 40 Club 2000/The Ruthnell Deck (Freeport), 170–171 Club Waterloo (Nassau), 100 Coconits by Androsia (Lucaya), 169 Cole’s of Nassau, 97 Colombian Emeralds (Nassau), 98 Colombian Emeralds (Paradise Island), 125 Colombian Emeralds International (Grand Bahama Island), 168 Consolidators, 29–30 Continental Airlines, 27 Continental Airlines Vacations, 34 Count Basie Square (Port Lucaya), 131, 170 Credit cards, 15–16 frequent-flier, 30 Crocodiles Waterfront Bar & Grill (Nassau), 102 Cruise lines, 31–32, 51 Crystal Court arcade (Paradise Island), 125 Currency and currency exchange, 13 Customs regulations, 11

Delta Airlines, 27 Delta Vacations, 34 Dentists, 54, 133 Disabilities, travelers with, 22–23 Doctors, 54, 133 Dollar car rentals, 36

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Dolphins, swimming with, 160–161 Dragons (Paradise Island), 126 The Drop Off (Nassau), 102 Drug laws, 41 Drugstores Grand Bahama Island, 134 New Providence, 54 Dundas Center for the Performing Arts (Nassau), 99 Dune Bar (Paradise Island), 126–127

E ast End (Grand Bahama Island), 131–132 East End Adventures, 161 Elderhostel, 24 ElderTreks, 25 Electricity, 42 Embassies and consulates, 42 Emergencies, 42, 54 Entry requirements, 10 Etiquette and customs, 42 Eyeglass repair Grand Bahama Island, 134 New Providence, 54 Families with children, 25–26 Familyhostel, 25 Far East Traders (Grand Bahama Island), 167 Fashions (clothing) Grand Bahama Island, 167 Nassau, 97 Fendi (Nassau), 97 Ferries, Paradise Island, 104–105 Fishing Grand Bahama Island, 161 New Providence, 87 Paradise Island, 122–123 tours, 35 Flamingos, pink, 90, 165 Flovin Gallery (Grand Bahama Island), 167 Flovin Gallery II (Lucaya), 169 FlyCheap, 30 Flying Cloud, 86 Flying Wheels Travel, 22 Fort Charlotte (Nassau), 92 Fort Fincastle (Nassau), 92–93 Fort Montagu (Nassau), 93

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Fortune Hills Golf & Country Club, 162 Freeport, 131. See also Grand Bahama Island accommodations, 135–140 restaurants, 145–150 Freeport International Airport, 131 Freeport Taxi Company, 132 Frequent-flier clubs, 30 Frommers.com, 26 Frontiers International, 35

Gay and lesbian travelers, 23–24 Gold Rock Beach, 159 Golf Grand Bahama Island, 161–163 New Providence, 87 Paradise Island, 123 Goombay Guided Walking Tours (Nassau), 94 Grand Bahama Island, 128–171. See also Freeport; Lucaya accommodations, 135–145 arriving in, 130 brief description of, 8–9 fishing, 161 layout of, 131–132 map, 129 nightlife, 170–171 restaurants, 145–158 shopping, 166–170 sights and attractions, 164–166 swimming with dolphins, 160–161 transportation, 132–133 visitor information, 131 Grand Bahama Taxi Union, 132 Guesthouses, 41 Gulf-Stream Continental Connection, 130 H andicrafts, Grand Bahama Island, 167 Handicrafts, Nassau, 97–98 Happy Trails Stables (New Providence), 88 Harlequin Worldwide Connoisseurs Collection, 35 Harley-Davidson of Freeport (Lucaya), 169 Hartley’s Undersea Walk, 89

Health concerns, 19–21 Health insurance, 18–19 Hertz car rentals, 36, 133 H. Forbes Charter Services Ltd., 164 Hideaways International, 40 Holiday Inn SunSpree at the Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino (Grand Bahama), 171 Holidays, 42–43 Horseback riding Grand Bahama Island, 163 New Providence, 88 Hospitals Grand Bahama Island, 134 New Providence, 55 Hurricane season, 16 Hydroflora Gardens (Grand Bahama Island), 164

I Can, 23 Information sources, 9–10 Insurance, 18–19 International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT), 21 International Bazaar (Freeport), 166 restaurants, 150 Internet access, 43 Island Galleria (Grand Bahama Island), 167 Island Tings (Nassau), 97–98 J eweler’s Warehouse (Lucaya), 169 Jewelry Grand Bahama Island, 168 Nassau, 98 Jitneys, New Providence, 53 John Bull (Nassau), 98 Joker’s Wild (Paradise Island), 126 Junkanoo Beach (Western Esplanade), 85 Junkanoo Expo (Nassau), 93 Junkanoo festivals, 64 Just-A-Vacation, Inc., 35 K ayak Nature Tours, 163 Kennedy Gallery (Nassau), 96 King & Knights (Nassau), 100–101 Kuoni Travel, 35

GENERAL INDEX

L aundry and dry cleaning Grand Bahama Island, 134 New Providence, 55 Les Parisiennes (Grand Bahama Island), 168 Liberty Travel, 34 Lost and found, 43–44 Lost-luggage insurance, 19 Love Beach, 88 Lucaya. See also Port Lucaya; Port Lucaya Marketplace accommodations, 140–143 restaurants, 150–154 Lucayan Beach, 159 Lucayan National Park, 159–160, 164–165 Lucayan Park Golf & Country Club, 162 Lynx Air International, 130

MacLean’s Town (Grand Bahama Island), 132 Mademoiselle (Nassau), 97 Mademoiselle (Paradise Island), 125 Mail and postage rates, 44 Majestic Tours, 86–87, 94–95 Markets, Nassau, 98 Marlborough Antiques (Nassau), 95–96 MEDEX International, 19 Medic Alert Identification Tag, 20 Medical insurance, 18–19 Moment’s Notice, 31 Money matters, 13–16 Mopeds, New Providence, 54 Moss Rehab Hospital, 22

Nassau, 8 accommodations, 58–62 map, 56–57 layout of, 51–52 nightlife, 99 organized tours, 94–95 restaurants, 70–80 shopping, 95–99 sights and attractions, 90–94 Nassau International Airport, 27, 50 Nassau International Bazaar, 98 Nassau/Paradise Island Express, 30 Nassau Yacht Haven, 87

175

New Providence Island, 48–102. See also Nassau accommodations, 55–70 map, 56–57 taxes and service, 58 arriving in, 50–51 beaches, 85–86 boat cruises, 86–87 brief description of, 7–8 fishing, 87 golf, 87 map, 48–49 restaurants, 70–84 sights and attractions, 90–95 transportation, 52–54 Newspapers and magazines, 44 Grand Bahama Island, 134

Oasis Lounge (Paradise Island), 127 Ocean Club Golf Club (Paradise Island), 123 Ocean Wonder, 160 Off season, 17 Old Fort Beach, 1, 85–86 Open World Magazine, 23 Organized tours, Nassau, 94–95 Out Island Bar/The Beach Bar (Nassau), 102 Out Islands, 7 Package tours, 32–35 Palace Theater (Nassau), 101 Paradise Beach, 85 Paradise Island, 103–127 accommodations, 105–113 arriving in, 104 beaches, 122 brief description of, 8 layout of, 104 nightlife, 125–127 outdoor activities, 122–123 restaurants, 114–122 shopping, 124–125 sights and attractions, 123–124 transportation, 104–105 visitor information, 104 Paradise Island Casino, 106 Paradise Watersports, 163 Paris in The Bahamas (Freeport), 167–168

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INDEX

Parrot Jungle’s Garden of the Groves (Grand Bahama Island), 165 Passports, 44–45 The Perfume Bar (Nassau), 99 The Perfume Factory Fragrance of The Bahamas (Freeport), 168 Perfumes and cosmetics Grand Bahama Island, 168 Nassau, 99 The Perfume Shop (Nassau), 99 Pets, 45 Pinetree Stables, 163 Pink flamingos, 90, 165 Pirates of Nassau, 93–94 Plato’s Lounge (Paradise Island), 127 Police, 45, 55 Pompey Museum (Nassau), 94 Port Lucaya, 131 Port Lucaya Marketplace, 168–170 restaurants, 154–158 Post office Grand Bahama Island, 134 New Providence, 55 Prescription medications, 21 Prince George Plaza (Nassau), 98 Princess Margaret Hospital, 20 Prop Club (Lucaya), 171

R ainfall, average, 16 Rand Memorial, 20 Rand Memorial Nature Centre (Grand Bahama Island), 165–166 The Reef Course, 162–163 Reef Tours, Ltd., 161 Restaurants. See also Restaurant Index Grand Bahama Island, 145–158 New Providence, 70–84 Paradise Island, 114–122 Rodgers Travel, 26 Royal Oasis Casino, 170 Safety, 21, 45 New Providence, 55 Sandals, 40 Saunders Beach, 85 Scooters Grand Bahama Island, 133 New Providence, 54

Scuba diving Grand Bahama Island, 163–164 New Providence, 88 Paradise Island, 123 Sea Grape Boutique (Nassau), 98 Sea kayaking, Grand Bahama Island, 163 Sears Discount Travel Club, 31 Seasons, 17 Seaworld Explorer, 91, 160 Seniors, 39 Senior travel, 24–25 Shark Wall, 88–89 Shopping Grand Bahama Island, 166–170 Nassau, 95–99 Paradise Island, 124–125 The Shops at the Atlantis (Paradise Island), 125 Silver Point Beach, 159 Snorkeling Grand Bahama Island, 163–164 New Providence, 88–89 Paradise Island, 123 Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality, 22 Solomon’s Mines (Nassau), 96–97 South Ocean Golf Course, 88 Spring break, 17 Star Rent-a-Car (Grand Bahama Island), 133 Straw Market (Freeport), 166–167 Straw Market (Nassau), 99 Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas, 89–90 Superior Watersports, 160

Taíno Beach, 159 Taxes, 45 Taxis, 36 Grand Bahama Island, 132 New Providence, 52 Paradise Island, 104 Telephone, 46 Temperatures, average, 16 Tipping, 46–47 Tourist information, 9–10 Tours all-inclusive, 35 package, 32–35 TourScan, Inc., 34

AC C O M M O DAT I O N S I N D E X Transportation, 35–36 Grand Bahama Island, 132–133 New Providence, 52–54 Paradise Island, 104–105 Traveler’s checks, 14–15 Travelex Insurance Services, 18 Travel Guard International, 18 Travel insurance, 18–19 Travel Insured International, 18 Trip-cancellation insurance, 18 Tropique International Smoke Shop (Nassau), 96 Twin Air, 27 Twin Peaks Press, 23

U nderwater Explorers Society (UNEXSO; Port Lucaya), 160, 163–164 Dive Shop, 169–170 United States Tour Operators Association, 34 Unusual Centre (Grand Bahama Island), 168 US Airways, 27, 130 US Airways Vacations, 34

V acationpackager.com, 34 Vacation Together, 34 Villa rental and vacation homes, 40 Visitor information, 9–10, 51 Walking, Nassau, 53 Water, drinking, 47 Water-taxis, 53–54, 105 Weather, 16 Websites, 10 Weddings, 47 Western Esplanade (Junkanoo Beach), 85 Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino, 100 X anadu Beach, 4, 159 Z oo (New Providence), The, 101

177

ACCOMMODATIONS Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino, 5, 105–111 Bay View Village, 112 Best Western Castaways, 6, 138 Breezes Bahamas, 62, 64–65 British Colonial Hilton, 59 Buena Vista Hotel, 60 Club Land’Or, 108–109 Club Med Paradise, 109 Club Viva Fortuna, 143 Comfort Suites, 112–113 Compass Point, 4, 68–69 Coral Beach, 143 Deep Water Cay Club, 144 Dillet’s Guest House, 60–61 El Greco Hotel, 61 Graycliff, 58–59 Holiday Inn Junkanoo Beach, 59–60 Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort, 109–110 Island Palm, 139 Island Seas Resort, 138 Lakeview Manor Club, 139–140 Nassau Beach Hotel, 67 Nassau Harbour Club, 61–62 Ocean Club, 4–5, 106, 108 Ocean Spray Hotel, 62 Old Bahama Bay, 5, 144 Orange Hill Beach Inn, 69 Paradise Cove, 144–145 Paradise Harbour Club, 110 Paradise Harbour Club & Marina, 113 Pelican Bay at Lucaya, 141–142 The Pink House, 113 Port Lucaya Resort & Yacht Club, 142 Radisson Cable Beach Hotel, 5, 65 Royal Islander, 140 The Royal Oasis Golf Resort & Casino, 5, 135 Sandals Royal Bahamian Hotel, 4, 23, 65–66 Sheraton Grand Resort Paradise Island, 110–111 South Ocean Golf, Beach, and Dive Resort, 69–70 Sunrise Beach Club and Villas, 111–112 The Westin & Sheraton at Our Lucaya, 140

178

INDEX

West Wind II, 67–68 Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino, 4, 66–67

RESTAURANTS Androsia, 81–82 Anthony’s Caribbean Grill, 121 Avery’s Restaurant, 78 Bahamian Club, 114 Bahamian Kitchen, 78–79 Barracuda’s, 151 Beckey’s Restaurant, 148 The Beef Cellar, 82 Bishop’s Restaurant, 158 The Black Angus Grille, 81 Blue Lagoon, 114, 116 Blue Marlin, 119–120 Buena Vista, 70 Café at the Great Hall of Waters, 118 Café Johnny Canoe, 83 Café Matisse, 75 Cafe Michel, 150 Café Skans, 79 Capriccio, 82 Captain’s Charthouse Restaurant, 151–152 The Cave, 121 Chez Willie, 70–71 China Beach, 152 China Temple, 150 Churchill’s, 152 Club Caribe, 158 Columbus Tavern, 120 Conch Fritters Bar & Grill, 79 Courtyard Terrace, 116 Crocodiles Waterfront Bar & Grill, 79–80 Double Dragon, 80 Dune, 116 East Villa Restaurant and Lounge, 75–76 Europe, 76 Fathoms, 117 Fatman’s Nephew, 156–157 Ferry House, 154–155 Five Twins, 117 Gaylord’s, 76 Geneva’s, 148

Georgie’s, 157 Giovanni’s Cafe, 155 Graycliff, 71 Green Shutters Restaurant & Pub, 76–77 The Humidor, 71, 74 Julie’s Ristorante Italiano, 120–121 Kokonuts Beach Bar & Restaurant, 148 La Dolce Vita, 155 Le Rendezvous, 150 Luciano’s, 154 Mama Loo’s, 118 Mama Lyddy’s Place, 80 Marketplace, 119 Montagu Gardens, 77 News Café, 122 Oasis Café, 152–153 Outrigger’s Native Restaurant/White Wave Club, 157 The Palmetto Café, 165 Palm Grill & Coconut Bar, 153 The Palm Tree Restaurant, 80 Paradiso, 153 The Pepper Pot, 149 Pink Pearl Café, 75 Pisces, 155 Poop Deck, 77–78 The Poop Deck at Sandy Port, 82–83 Prop Club, 153–154 Pub at Lucaya, 156 The Pub on the Mall, 149 The Restaurant at Compass Point, 83–84 The Rib Room, 145 The Rotisserie, 121 Safari Restaurant, 149–150 Seagrapes Restaurant, 122 Shenanigan’s Irish Pub, 156 Shoal Restaurant and Lounge, 78 Silvano’s, 145–148 Sole Mare, 81 The Stoned Crab, 150–151 Sun And . . ., 74 Sundeck Bar and Grille, 120 Travellers’ Rest, 84 Villa d’Este, 117–118 The Water’s Edge, 119 Willy Broadleaf, 151 Zorba’s Greek Cuisine, 157–158

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FROMMER’S® BEST-LOVED DRIVING TOURS Britain California Florida France

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Hanging Out in France Hanging Out in Ireland

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SPECIAL-INTEREST TITLES Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Australia & New Zealand Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Central America Frommer’s Adventure Guide to India & Pakistan Frommer’s Adventure Guide to South America Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Southeast Asia Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Southern Africa Frommer’s Britain’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Caribbean Hideaways Frommer’s Exploring America by RV Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart

Frommer’s France’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe Frommer’s Italy’s Best Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns Frommer’s Road Atlas Britain Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe Frommer’s Road Atlas France The New York Times’ Guide to Unforgettable Weekends Places Rated Almanac Retirement Places Rated Rome Past & Present

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