Frommer's Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands, 2nd Edition 9780470445860, 0470445866

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ISBN 978-0-470-44586-0

Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands 2nd Edition by Eliot Greenspan Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —BOOKLIST

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —GLAMOUR MAGAZINE

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A B O U T T H E AU T H O R Eliot Greenspan is a poet, journalist, musician, and trav el writer who took his backpack and typewriter the length of Mesoamerica before settling in Costa Rica in 1992. S ince then, he has worked steadily as a travel writer, freelance journalist, and translator, and has continued his travels in the region. He is the author of Frommer’s Belize, Costa Rica For Dummies, Frommer’s Guatemala, and The Tico Times Restaurant Guide to Costa Rica, as well as the chapter on Venezuela in Frommer’s South America. Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be r eproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 U nited States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the P ublisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center , 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. R equests to the Publisher for permission should be addr essed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/7486008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademar ks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any pr oduct or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-44586-0 Editor: Matthew Brown with Melinda Quintero Production Editor: Lindsay Conner Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Galápagos: Blue-footed boobies standing on rocky outcrop Back cover photo: Manto de la Novia falls, Río Pastaza Gorge, Baños For information on our other pr oducts and services or to obtain technical suppor t, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a v ariety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be av ailable in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1

CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS

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WHAT’S NEW IN ECUADOR & THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS 1 THE BEST OF ECUADOR 1 The Best Purely Ecuadorean Travel Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 2 The Best of Natural Ecuador . . . . . . . .6 3 The Best Historical Sites & Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 4 The Best Outdoor Adventures . . . . . .8 5 The Best Bird-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . .9 6 The Best Destinations for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 7 The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .11

3 8 The Best Moderately Priced & Budget Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 9 The Best Ecolodges & Haciendas. . .13 10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 11 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 12 The Best Shopping & Markets . . . . .16 13 The Best After-Dark Fun . . . . . . . . . . .17 14 The Best Websites About Ecuador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

2 ECUADOR IN DEPTH 1 2 3 4

Ecuador Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Looking Back at Ecuador . . . . . . . . . .21 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Art & Architecture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

19 5 Ecuador in Popular Culture: Books, Music & Films . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 6 Llapingachos, Cuy & Pilsener: Ecuadorean Food & Drink . . . . . . . . .30

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ECUADOR 1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Ecuador Calendar of Events. . . . . . . . . 35 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . .36 3 Getting There & Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

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Car-Rental Tips. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 The U.S. Dollar, the British Pound & the Euro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 5 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

CO N T E N T S

E C UA D O R & T H E G A L Á PAG O S I S L A N D S

iv

What Things Cost in Ecuador . . . . . . . 44 6 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .47 8 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 General Resources for Green Travel. . . 50

9 Spanish-Language Programs . . . . . .50 10 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Online Traveler’s Toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . . 54 11 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .54 12 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

4 SUGGESTED ECUADOR ITINERARIES 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 2 Ecuador in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 3 Ecuador in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

4 Ecuador for Families. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 5 Ecuador for Adventure Travelers. . .65 6 Quito in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

5 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER 1 Organized Adventure Trips . . . . . . . .70 2 Activities A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Hummingbird Heaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 The Big Peaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 3 Ecuador’s Top National Parks & Bioreserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87

6 QUITO 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . 97 Breaking the Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Fast Facts: Quito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 The Quito School of Art . . . . . . . . . . . .118

7 THE NORTHERN SIERRA 1 Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Otavalo Globalized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Tree Tomato. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156

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Searching for Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 4 Tips on Health, Safety & Etiquette in the Wilderness. . . . . . . .92 5 Ecologically Oriented Volunteer & Study Programs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

95 Getting High in Quito . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 6 Outdoor Activities & Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 8 Quito After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Plaza Foch: Ground Zero in Mariscal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 9 Side Trips from Quito. . . . . . . . . . . . 135

142 2 Ibarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 The Minga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 3 Tulcan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165

8 THE CENTRAL SIERRA

It’s Chicha Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 4 Baños . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Tungurahua: Back with a Bang . . . .194 5 Riobamba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199

9 CUENCA & THE SOUTHERN SIERRA 1 Cuenca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 The Panama Hat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 2 Loja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

The Virgin of El Cisne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229 2 Vilcabamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232

10 GUAYAQUIL & THE SOUTHERN COAST

4 Puerto Lopez & Machalilla National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Having a Whale of a Time . . . . . . . . .265 5 Machala & South to the Peruvian Border. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Going Bananas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269

11 NORTHERN PACIFIC COAST & LOWLANDS 1 Manta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 The Manta Airbase. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278 2 Bahia de Caraquez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 3 Canoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 4 Esmeraldas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293

12 EL ORIENTE Down & Dirty in the Jungle . . . . . . . .308 1 Lago Agrio & Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Cofán Chief Randy Borman . . . . . . . .312 2 Coca & the Lower Rio Napo . . . . 314

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Esmeraldas: Ecuador’s African Coast? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 5 Atacames & the Beaches West of Esmeraldas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 6 Santo Domingo de los Colorados. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Red-Haired Boys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303

306 Orellana’s Journey of Discovery . . . .316 3 Tena & the Upper Rio Napo . . . . . 321 4 Puyo & the Southern Amazon Basin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Farther down the Road: Macas . . . .329

CO N T E N T S

1 Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 La Rivalidad: Quito & Guayaquil . . .240 A Meeting of Giants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 If You’re Short on Time . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 2 Salinas & The Santa Elena Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 3 Montañita. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

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E C UA D O R & T H E G A L Á PAG O S I S L A N D S

1 Cotopaxi National Park . . . . . . . . . 168 Andean Condor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 2 Latacunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 3 Ambato. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

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E C UA D O R & T H E G A L Á PAG O S I S L A N D S

vi

13 THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 The Islands in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334 Not Your Typical Passenger: Charles Darwin & the Galápagos Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336 2 Cruises. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Organizing a Last-Minute Trip to the Galápagos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342

330 3 Puerto Ayora & Santa Cruz Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Unwanted Guests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .347 4 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno & San Cristobal Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 5 Staying on Other Islands . . . . . . . . 361 An Island Whodunit?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .362 The Galápagos Tortoise . . . . . . . . . . . .364

APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 1 Fast Facts: Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365

2 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental Websites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371

CO N T E N T S

APPENDIX B: GLOSSARY OF SPANISH TERMS & PHRASES 1 Basic Words & Phrases. . . . . . . . . . . 374 2 Menu Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 3 Hotel Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378

INDEX

374

4 Travel Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 5 Typical Ecuadorean Words & Phrases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379

APPENDIX C: ECUADOREAN WILDLIFE 1 Mammals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 2 Birds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 3 Amphibians. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387

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4 Reptiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 5 Invertebrates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 6 Sea Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392

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LIST OF MAPS The Best of Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Ecuador in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Ecuador in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Ecuador for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Ecuador for Adventure Travelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Quito in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Ecuador’s National Parks & Protected Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Quito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Side Trips from Quito . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 The Northern Sierra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Around Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 The Central Sierra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cotopaxi National Park . . . . . . . . . . 171 Quilotoa Loop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

Baños. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Riobamba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 The Southern Sierra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Cuenca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Vilcabamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 The Southern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Machalilla National Park . . . . . . . . . 267 Northern Pacific Coast & Lowlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Manta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Bahía de Caráquez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 El Oriente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Río Napo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 The Galápagos Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Puerto Ayora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345

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AC K N OW L E D G M E N TS I got some very valuable support and input on this book from friends and experts in Ecuador and abr oad. F or the second edition r unning, D anielle Leyla Walters made many v aluable contributions and corrections. I would also like to thank Patricio Gaybor, Natalia Santa María, and N ubia J aramillo, of the F ondo M ixto de P romoción Turística del E cuador, for major logistical suppor t. I n Q uito, D ominic H amilton of the Q uito Visitor’s B ureau was a huge help, while in G uayaquil, a team of industr y professionals, including Joseph Garzozi, Andre Barona, José Carrion, Ilse Tugendhat, and Peter Rodriguez, all chipped in with information, ideas, and mor e. F inally, muchas gracias ar e due to M atthew B rown, my editor , for his patience, deft editorial touch, and personal exper tise in Ecuador. —Eliot Greenspan

A N I N V I TAT I O N TO T H E R E A D E R In researching this book, w e discovered many wonder ful places—hotels, r estaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands, 2nd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E Please be advised that trav el information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held r esponsible for the experiences of r eaders while trav eling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so w e encourage you to stay aler t and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close ey e on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Argentina Frommer’s Brazil Frommer’s Chile & Easter Island Frommer’s Panama Frommer’s Peru Frommer’s South America

F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality , value, service, amenities, and special featur es using a star-rating system. I n countr y, state, and regional guides, w e also rate to wns and r egions to help y ou narrow down your choices and budget y our time accor dingly. H otels and r estaurants ar e rated on a scale of z ero (r ecommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, to wns, and regions are rated accor ding to the follo wing scale: z ero stars (r ecommended), one star (highly r ecommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate trav elers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders kno w about

Fun Facts

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids

Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories ar e made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not wor th your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

Warning!

Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC D iscover DC D iners Club MC M asterCard

V Visa

F R O M M E R S.CO M Now that y ou have this guidebook to help y ou plan a gr eat trip, visit our w ebsite at www. frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features r egularly to giv e y ou instant access to the most curr ent trip-planning information available. A t Frommers.com, y ou’ll find scoops on the best air fares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can ev en book y our trav el online thr ough our r eliable trav el booking partners. Other popular features include: • • • • • •

Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

What’s New in Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands PLANNING YOUR TRIP Due to delays, the ne w international airpor t being built on the outskir ts of do wntown Q uito is now slated to open sometime in 2010. All international passengers leaving Ecuador by air must pay a depar ture tax, which is $26 (£17.33) fr om G uayaquil, and $41.80 (£27.87) fr om Q uito. S ee chapter 3. QUITO The ne w and modern Museo Mindalae (& 02/2230-609) features five floors of displays dedicated to the traditional arts and crafts of E cuador’s indigenous peoples. Set right on the P laza Foch, nü house (& 02/2557-845; www .nuhousehotels. com) is a stylish and chic ne w boutique hotel with an excellent location. On the outskir ts of the city , sitting on the flanks of the Pichincha Volcano, Hacienda Rumiloma (& 02/2548-206 or 09/ 9703-130; www .haciendarumiloma.com) is a new boutique hotel, with an ex cellent fusion r estaurant and a gr eat vie w of the city and valley below. For Q uito dining, I r ecommend the excellent nuevo latino cuisine ser ved up at Azuca Latin B istro (& 02/2907-164), located on the P laza Foch. And while I’ m less enthusiastic about the food at the ne w El C afé de S an F rancisco (& 09/9034164), you can’t beat the view and location.

Up in the cloud forests of Mindo, Casa Divina (& 02/3900-457; www.mindocasa divina.com) is a pr etty, new option, with its own zip-line canopy tour. See chapter 6. THE NORTHERN SIERR A The Quitsato Mitad del Mundo Monument (& 02/ 2363-042; www.quitsato.org) has r ecently opened a S olar C ulture M useum, which features an audio-visual exhibition on the history, geography, and astr onomy of the Equator. Otavalo’s Hotel Alishungu(& 06/2920750; www.alishungu.com) has added central heating to all its r ooms. See chapter 7. THE CENTR AL SIERR A Hostal Tiana (& 03/2810-147; www.hostaltiana.com) is a new downtown budget option in Latacunga, gear ed to backpackers and adv enture travelers. It serves as a good jumping-off point for trips around the Quilotoa Loop. Baños has a new luxury spa by the name of Samari Spa Resort (& 03/2741-855; www.samarispa.com). Built on the gr ounds of a 300-year-old Jesuit monastery, this place offers the most elegant and upscale accommodations in the area. See chapter 8. CUENCA & THE SOUTHERN SIERR A

If you’re looking for a comfortable, contemporary hotel near the bus station in Loja, try the new Quo Vadis Hotel (& 07/2581805; www.quovadishotel.com.ec), which is just a block away fr om the city ’s main terminal. See chapter 9.

W H AT ’S N E W

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GUAYAQUIL & THE SOUTHERN C OAST

Housed in a beautiful home dating to 1942, the Museo Presley Norton (Presley Norton Museum; & 04/2293-423) is a new incarnation of the B anco del Pacífico Archeological Museum, with a small but impressive collection of ar cheological r elics, par ticularly fr om E cuador’s coastal regions. The ne w Manso B outique H ostal (&/fax 09/6034-054; www .manso.com. ec) has attractive and arty accommodations right on Guayaquil’s riverfront Malecón. Guayaquil’s r estaurant scene is hopping, and one of the top ne w spots is the restaurant Sucre (& 04/2838-068), in Urdessa, which serves up top-notch fusion fare in a stylish space. Those looking to combine sur fing and beach time with S panish lessons should check out the ne w Montañita S panish School (www.montanitaspanishschool. com), which will let y ou combine y our language-learning with personaliz ed instruction on riding the waves. For semiplush beachfront digs in Puerto López, check out the ne w Hostería Oceanic (& 09/6211-065; www.oceanic-pl. com), whose cabins are some of my favorite along the Ecuadorean Pacific coast. See chapter 10. THE NORTHERN P ACIFIC C OAST & LOWLANDS Bahía de Caráquez has a

new main bus terminal, which is located about 6km (3 3/4 miles) outside of town. Also in B ahía, Casa Grande Boutique Guesthouse (& 09/9754-773) has added televisions to all guest rooms. Over in Canoa, the Surf Shak (& 09/ 7942-293) has been r ebuilt from scratch, although it r emains a do wn-home and funky beachfr ont bar , r estaurant, and hangout. While the Hotel Linda O nda (& 05/2616-339; www.lindaonda.com) and Hotel Canoa’s Wonderland (& 05/ 2616-363; www.hotelcanoaswonderland. com.ec) are two new hotel options.

Volando E cuador (& 09/8571-144; www.volandoecuador.ec) is a ne w tour operator specializing in parasailing and hang-gliding tours in Ecuador, particularly around Canoa. See chapter 11. EL ORIENTE The ne west addition at Sacha Lodge (& 800/706-2215 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/2566-090; www . sachalodge.com) is a 275m-long (902-ft.) canopy walkway located some 30m (98 ft.) above the forest floor. Meanwhile, Sani Lodge (& 02/2558881; www.sanilodge.com) has added four new rooms and spruced up their camping area with the addition of clean and comfortable bathrooms and showers. See chapter 12. THE GAL ÁPAGOS ISL ANDS I n July 2008, eggs were discovered in the nest of a female tortoise that shares a pen with, and is closely related to, Lonesome George, the sole sur viving I sla P inta tor toise. H opes ran high that the offspring would pr event the extinction of the I sla Pinta. However, none of 13 incubated eggs successfully hatched. There is a ne w $10 (£6.65) “transit tax” that you must pay at a special booth in the airport befor e checking in and checking your bags for your flight to the Galápagos. On S anta C ruz, the Red M angrove Adventure Inn & 888/254-3190 in the U.S. and Canada, or 05/2526-524; www . redmangrove.com) is under ne w management and has r eceived a good amount of upkeep and r emodeling. They hav e also opened ne w sister lodges on both I sabela and Floreana islands. Also on S anta C ruz, the formerly budget-oriented Hotel Sol y Mar (& 05/2526139; www.hotelsolymar.com.ec) has been totally rebuilt, and is a ne w, upscale, bayfront option. See chapter 13.

The Best of Ecuador Ecuadoreans like t o boast that their c ountry is r eally f our distinc t

destinations: the Galápagos Islands, the Amazon basin, the high Andean sierra, and the Pacific coast. I n fact, it ’s much mor e. Quito offers up both colonial gems and modern pleasures in a compact urban environment. Cuenca is another colonial treasure, with the Inca ruins of Ingapirca nearby. You can visit not only the rainforests of the Amazon basin, but also the cloud forests of Mindo and Bellavista, the dry forests of the southern Pacific lowlands, and the high-altitude paramo of the Central highlands. Those Central highlands are home to numerous colonial-era haciendas that have been converted into lovely and cozy hotels and inns. Active travelers can ride horses on the Andean plains, or mountain bike down the slopes of active volcanoes. Bird-watchers can add to their list from the more than 1,600 species found her e. With so much physical and cultural v ariety, there are plenty of ex cellent experiences and adv entures for any type of trav eler. B elow is a selective list of some of the best that E cuador has to offer.

1 T H E B E S T P U R E LY E C UA D O R E A N T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S • Stepping B ack in Time in Colonial Quito: F ounded in 1534, Q uito was the first city to be declar ed a World Heritage S ite b y UNESCO. I ts O ld Town seems in many ways to hav e changed little o ver the centuries. Walk the rough cobblestone str eets and visit the numer ous, beautifully r estored colonial-era chur ches, monasteries, convents, private mansions, and public plazas—you’ll feel as if y ou’ve trav eled back in time. See chapter 6. • Straddling the E quator: The country isn’t called E cuador for nothing—the Equator passes right thr ough it. D on’t miss the chance to hav e y our photo taken with one foot in either hemisphere. There are several popular tourist attractions and marked spots where you can do this. M y fav orite is Quitsato Mitad del Mundo Monument (& 02/ 2363-042; www.quitsato.org), located

just off the highway fr om Q uito to Otavalo. See p. 137. • Eating Cuy: You’ll see them roasting on spits at little stands along the highways, or on side walks in cities and to wns. You’ll also find them on the menus of some of E cuador’s fanciest r estaurants. It’s guinea pig to y ou and me. The skin is served crisp and crackling, and y ou’ll have to wor k to get much meat fr om cuy. But when it ’s good, it ’s moist and flavorful. S ee r estaurant r eviews throughout the book. • Searching for the F ountain of Youth in Vilcabamba: The small and isolated village of Vilcabamba is said to hav e a disproportionately high number of centenarians. M ost folks cr edit the clean water, air, and living. While it may not actually add y ears to y our life, this is a great place to come for a quiet getaway with superb scener y. And whether or

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The Best of Ecuador CAYAPAS-MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

San Lorenzo Pasto

Ríoverde

Esmeraldas Alacames Atacames

PAC I F I C OCEAN

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T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

Santo Domingo de Los Colorados

2

Embalse Daule-Peripa

Puerto López

CO T O P AX AXI OTOP Latacunga

Colimes

BOLÍV B OLÍVAR

I. Sta. Clara (El Muerto)

CAÑA C AÑAR Naranjal

6 CAJAS NAT'L PARK

Talara

National Capital Provincial Capital Panamericana

LOJ L OJA

Gualaquiza EL CÓNDOR BI-NATIONAL PARK

El Pangui

ZAM ORAMOR CH C H IINCH N C H IPE IPE Loja

Vilcabamba Macará Ayabaca

Cueva de los Tayos

Amaluza

Zumba

Zamora 5

PODOCARPUS NAT'L PARK

PE P E RU RU

ta

Taisha

Morona

Sígsig

San Felipe de Oña Saraguro

Cisne

Puyango Petrified Forest Pindal

M O R ONA MOR ONASAN NTIA TIAGO

Cuenca

AZUA AY Y Pasaje Santa Rosa

ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL EL O OR RO Tumbes RES. Arenillas Zorritos

Zapotillo

Azogues

Balao

Machala

Ingapirca

Macas

Pa s

imi

Isla Puná

Go l f o Golfo de de Gu a ayy aq aqu uil il

SANGAY NATIONAL PARK

shu

MANGLARES-CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE General Villamil (Playas)

PA TA P AST AZA

Guamote Alausi

GUAYAQUIL

La Libertad

Namo

HIMB OR CH IMBO RAZO

Milagro

GU UAY AYAS

po

Santa Clara

Puyo

7

Riobamba

Montalvo

Babahoyo

Salinas

Baños

Guaranda

Palestina

4 Montañita

TU NG HU T UN GURAH UA

Chimborazo

Na

LLANGANATES Tena NATIONAL PARK

Ambato

LOS L OS R ÍÍOS OS

Loreto

8

9

Quevedo

Jipijapa Paján

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ANTISANA SUMACO-NAPOGALERAS ECOLOGICAL NAT'L PARK Coca RESERVE NAPO Cotopaxi NAPO

L. Quilotoa

Portoviejo

La Joya de los Sachas

14 Sangolqui

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ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

Junín

Manta

MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK

QUITO

Flavio Alfaro LOS ILINIZAS

MANA M A N A BÍ BÍ

Bahía de Manta I. de I. de La La Plata Plata 3

Lago Agrio CAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

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PIC P I C HINC H I N C HA HA

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T H E B E S T P U R E LY E C UA D O R E A N T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S

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Pedernales

COFÁN BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

Ibarra 13 Otavalo

Puerto Quito

Jama

Orilo El Ángel

IIM MB BA AB BU URA

Cojimíes

San Vicente Bahía de Caráquez

CA C ARCH HII

COTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

MACHE-CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

Equator Equator

Tulcán

ESS ME E MERAL LDA DAS

Same Muisne

za

5 0

40 mi

0

N

40 km

COL C O L OMBIA OMBIA Pu

San

tum

ue

ayo

Puerto El Carmen del Putumayo

l

Equator

SSU UCU UM MB BÍOS ÍOS CUYABENO WILDLIFE RESERVE Añangu

Pañacocha Nap

15

16

Güeppi

OR O REL LLA L A NA NA

Pantoja

Nuevo Rocafuerte

YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK Cononaco Cu r a

ra y

PE P ERU

The Galápagos Islands Darwin

N

Pinta

Pucacuro Marchena Genovesa

Wolf

Equator

Wolf Darwin

Santiago

La Cumbre Santa Cruz

17

Fernandina 18

Isabela

Puerto Villamil

Santa María 0 0

50 mi 50 km

San Cristóbal

Puerto Ayora

19

Puerto Baquerizo

20 Concordia

Española

THE BEST BIRD-WATCHING The Cloud Forests of Mindo and Bellavista 12 El Oriente 16 The Galápagos Islands 17 Podocarpus National Park 5 THE BEST FAMILY DESTINATIONS Baños de Agua Santa 7 El Telefériqo & Vulqano Park 14 The Galápagos Islands 18 Hacienda La Alegría 11 Nauta Parinari

1 T H E B E S T P U R E LY E C UA D O R E A N T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S

THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Climbing Volcán Cotopaxi 9 Playing Cowboy or Cowgirl on the High Mountain Paramo 9 Scuba Diving in the Galápagos Islands 20 Surfing Lonely Waves Along Ecuador's Pacific Coast 2 Watching Whales Breach & Breed off the Pacific Coast 4 White-Water Rafting & Kayaking 8

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THE BEST OF NATURAL ECUADOR The Beaches West of Atacames 1 Cajas National Park 6 Cotopaxi National Park 10 Cuicocha Lake 13 The Galápagos Islands 19 Isla de la Plata 3 The Rainforests of Ecuador's El Oriente 15

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not ther e’s any science behind it, a spa treatment or two at Hostería Izhcayluma (& 07/2640-095; www .izhcayluma. com) will definitely cure whatever’s ailing you at the moment. See chapter 9. • Starting Off Your Day with a Glass of Tree-Tomato Juice: Don’t be put off by the name, or think that it tastes anything like a traditional tomato . A tr ee tomato (tomate de árbol or tamarillo) is a unique fr uit ser ved just about ev ery which way in E cuador. M y fav orite is the juice, although y ou’ll also find tr ee tomatoes in salads; cooked into jam; or boiled, peeled, sweetened, and served as dessert. • Riding a Train Past the D evil’s Nose: Earthquakes, landslides, and v olcanic eruptions hav e wiped out most of the rail-line that used to connect Q uito to Guayaquil. O ne r emaining operational section is also one of the most spectacular, a white-knuckle ride of sharp switchbacks and hairpin turns down the side of a steep r ock mountain affectionately known as the Devil’s Nose. See p. 203. • Buying a P anama H at: You shouldn’t leave the countr y without buying one of these stylish straw wonders, which are made in E cuador, not P anama (for

an explanation, see p . 216). C uenca is currently the primar y center for pr oduction of P anama hats; Homero Ortega P. & H ijos (& 07/2809-000; www.homeroortega.com) is that city ’s top manufactur er. True aficionados might ev en head to the small to wns of Montecristi or Jipijapa to find their special superfino headpiece. See chapter 9. • Drinking Chicha: Homebrewed liquor made fr om fermenting corn, potatoes, yuca, and just about anything else on hand, chicha is consumed by indigenous peoples thr oughout the Andean highlands as well as in the lowland forests of El O riente. M ost chicha is r elatively mild, but if y ou drink enough of it you’ll definitely feel its effects—especially at high altitudes. S ee chapters 8 and 12. • Visiting the Amaz on B asin: While officially just tributaries of the gr eat river, the lo wland rainfor est riv ers of eastern E cuador form an impor tant part of the Amaz on basin. This area is loaded with impressive wildlife, and it’s home to traditional indigenous tribes. You’ll get to interact with both on any trip here. See chapter 12.

2 T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L E C UA D O R • Cuicocha Lake: Formed thousands of years ago in the extinct crater of a massive v olcano, this beautiful, clear , blue lake is a popular destination. You can choose between hiking ar ound the rim of the crater or scrambling do wn for a boat ride on the waters of the lake. The lake is named after the popular dish cuy (guinea pig), because locals thought the islands in its center r esembled guinea pigs. See p. 88. • Cotopaxi National Park: With 33,393 hectares (82,516 acres) surrounding the

park’s namesake and emblematic v olcano, this is E cuador’s most popular national par k, after the G alápagos. A t 5,897m (19,347 ft.), the sno w-covered Cotopaxi is the countr y’s second highest peak, and allegedly the highest active volcano in the world. Tour options here range from leisure hikes at lo wer elevations to full-on summit climbs, with other options including mountain biking, horseback riding, and camping. The best general tour operators running trips to Cotopaxi ar e Metropolitan

3 THE BEST HISTORICAL SITES & MUSEUMS • Iglesia de S an F rancisco (Old Town; Quito): Quito’s first chur ch, San Francisco r emains one of its most impr essive, especially when y ou factor in the attached monaster y, museum, massiv e altar, and wide stairway ascending from the plaza. The chur ch and its ornate interior are in the midst of a major r estoration, which should only make this

classic, colonial-era chur ch that much more impressive. See p. 121. • La Compañía de J esús (O ld Town; Quito): There’s so much gold and gold leaf adorning this unbeliev ably ornate 17th-century bar oque chur ch that I often feel the need for sunglasses. I n fact, the J esuits who built this chur ch incorporated several sun symbols, which

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short section of P acific coast w est of Atacames has sev eral small and beautiful beaches. S ua and S ame ar e my favorites, and Tonsupa, Tonchigue, and Galera ar e also pr etty. F or someplace really unique and isolated, you can head to the small island of Muisne. See chapter 11. • The Rainforests of E cuador’s El Oriente: When Amaz on rainfor ests ar e mentioned, most people think of B razil. B ut E cuador’s E l O riente is a v ast area of lo wland tropical rainforest that is par t of the Amaz on basin. I n fact, Francisco O rellana, who first named and navigated the Amazon River, began his long journey her e in Ecuador. Over 500 species of bir ds and some 15,000 species of flora can be found her e, as well as freshwater dolphins, 11 different species of monkeys, anacondas, caimans, and jaguars. See chapter 12. • The G alápagos I slands: E cuador’s prime attraction is a naturalist ’s paradise. In fact, if we were talking religion, this would be Holy Ground. It was here that Charles D arwin dev eloped many of his ideas that would later emerge as the theor y of natural selection and the theory of ev olution. N ot only ar e the Galápagos famous for their wildlife— on land, in the sea, and in the air—but this unique and isolated v olcanic archipelago is a living geology laboratory. See chapter 13.

T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

Touring (& 02/2988-200; www. metropolitan-touring.com) and Surtrek (& 02/2231-534; www.surtrek.com). For hard-core climbing and adventures, try Safari E cuador (& 02/2552-505; www.safari.com.ec). S ee chapters 5 and 8. • Cajas National Park: Located just outside C uenca, this beautiful national park is famous for its 232 high montane lakes and misty cloud for ests. It is also an excellent place for hiking and bir dwatching. Easily accessible, it ’s a gr eat change of pace fr om the cobblestone streets, colonial-era chur ches, and P anama-hat shops of Cuenca. See p. 87. • Isla de la Plata: The crowning jewel of Machalilla National Park is I sla de la Plata, an offshore island often touted as “the poor man ’s G alápagos.” Whether or not that ’s an appr opriate or ev en worthy moniker, Isla de la P lata offers excellent bird- and wildlife-viewing and snorkeling. What’s more, from late June through early October, you have a good chance of seeing humpback whales on the boat ride out to the island. On land, Machalilla has some fabulous trails and beaches. See chapter 10. • The Beaches West of A tacames: In general, E cuador is not a gr eat beach destination. I t cer tainly can ’t hold a candle to beaches found in the Caribbean, South Pacific, or ev en Mexico or Costa Rica. H owever, the r elatively

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T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

•

•

THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

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•

•

some say was a nod to the I ncas who preceded them on this spot. The level of detail and ar tistry on display her e is unparalleled. See p. 122. Museo N acional del B anco Central del E cuador (N ew Town; Q uito): Ecuador’s largest museum is also arguably its best. The anthr opological and historical displays of the pre-Columbian inhabitants ar e extensiv e, inter esting, and beautifully display ed. There ar e also v ery good collections of colonialera and r eligious ar t, as w ell as a fine representation of E cuador’s best modern art and artists. See p. 125. Fundación G uayasamín (B ellavista, Quito): O swaldo G uayasamín was Ecuador’s gr eatest and most famous modern artist. His striking large paintings, murals, and sculptur es had an impact on ar tists acr oss Latin America and ar ound the world. This extensiv e museum displays both his o wn wor k and pieces fr om his priv ate collection. Combined with the neighboring Capilla del H ombre, this is a must-see for any art lover or Latin American histor y buff. See p. 126. Catedral N ueva (C uenca): This massive cathedral took o ver 80 y ears to complete. Its two towering blue domes dominate the skyline of C uenca, especially when vie wed fr om one of the hillside lookouts outside to wn. D on’t miss a chance to tour its beautiful inside, which has white marble floors, stained-glass windo ws, and a R enaissance-style main altar. See p. 212. Museo del B anco Central (C uenca): This modern museum features an excellent collection of ar chaeological finds

and r elics, ethnographic displays, and colonial-era figurative and religious art; it’s also built right on top of a major Inca ceremonial site that has been semiexcavated. As if that w eren’t enough, there ar e extensiv e botanical gar dens here, a small aviary, and llamas roaming the grounds. See p. 213. • Ingapirca (outside C uenca): I ngapirca is the gr eatest sur viving I nca r uin in Ecuador. A visit her e will allo w you to appreciate the famous I nca masonr y, with its seemingly impossibly tight joints. E ven befor e the I ncas arriv ed, this spot was inhabited b y the Cañari, and some of their original constructions are also on display . The site is believ ed to have been sacred to both the Cañari and Incas. See p. 224. • La Tolita (North P acific coast): This unique archaeological site is found on a small island outside S an Lor enzo. It is believed that it was inhabited by one of the oldest pr e-Columbian cultur es, a people skilled at wor king with gold, silver, and ev en platinum. O ne whole beach her e contains millions of shar ds of ancient pottery. See p. 297. • Museo Antropológico y de Ar te Contemporáneo (Guayaquil): Large, modern, and well laid out, this is Guayaquil’s best museum. There ar e extensiv e archaeological collections her e from all over E cuador, as w ell as a wonder ful wing dedicated to contemporar y Ecuadorean art. One of the best featur es of this museum is its prized location at the northern end of G uayaquil’s M alecón, allowing easy access to both the popular riverside boar dwalk and neighboring Cerro Santa Ana. See p. 246.

4 THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES • Climbing Volcán Cotopaxi: Although it’s actually only the second highest peak in the countr y, Cotopaxi is E cuador’s most coveted summit. At 5,897m

(19,347 ft.), this is no leisur ely climb, yet most people in r easonably good condition, with the pr oper guides and acclimation, can r each the top . The

5 T H E B E S T B I R D - WATC H I N G • Enjoying the M ists and M ultitude of Species Found in the Cloud Forests of

Mindo & Bellavista: Cloud forests are unique ecosystems, r enowned for their

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1 T H E B E S T B I R D - WATC H I N G

breaks can be found up and do wn the Pacific coast. Montañita and Canoa are the countr y’s top sur fing destinations, and good bases to use for y our sear ch for the perfect wave. See chapters 5, 10, and 11. • White-Water R afting & K ayaking: With high Andean peaks plunging down to coastal lo wlands in two dir ections, Ecuador is blessed with a host of white-water riv ers per fect for rafting and kayaking. The small town of Tena, in El Oriente, is the countr y’s hot spot for these spor ts, with easy access to everything fr om Class III to Class V rapids. The most popular riv ers are the Upper Napo, or Río Jatunyacu, and the Río Misahuallí. There are also opportunities accessible fr om Q uito and other cities around the country. Ríos Ecuador (& 06/2886-727; www.riosecuador. com) is an excellent operator with offices in both Tena and Quito. See chapters 5 and 12. • Scuba D iving in the G alápagos Islands: While most visitors spend their time mar veling at the tur tles, iguanas, boobies, and finches, diving the G alápagos may just provide the archipelago’s most rewarding wildlife-viewing opportunities. The rich and pr otected waters here are home to large quantities of sea life, fr om schools of hammerhead sharks, to manta rays, to large masses of jacks, barracuda, and other schooling fish. Lucky divers enjoy playful encounters with sea lions and penguins. Your best bet for enjo ying the diving is to sign up for a cr uise on a dedicated div e boat. You can also book dive trips out of Puerto Ay ora or P uerto B aquerizo Moreno. See chapters 5 and 13.

T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

views on the way up , at the summit, and coming back down are spectacular. Compañía de G uías de M ontaña (& 02/ 2901-551; www .companiadeguias. com.ec) and Safari E cuador (& 02/ 2552-505; www.safari.com.ec) are two excellent local operators who can get you to the sno wcapped summit. S ee chapters 5 and 8. • Playing Co wboy or Co wgirl on the High M ountain P aramo: In E cuador, cowboys are called chagras, and the chagra tradition is aliv e and w ell. Whether you sign on for a shor t ride or actually get to join in a round-up of wild bulls or horses, you’ll feel like a chagra as you ride your steed o ver the r ugged scrub of the high Andean paramo . Hacienda La Alegría (& 02/2462-319; www.hacienda laalegria.com) offers multiday rides. S ee chapters 5 and 8. • Watching Whales Breach & Breed off the P acific Coast: From late J une to early O ctober, humpback whales congregate in large numbers off E cuador’s Pacific coast. They come to the warmer waters fr om Antar ctica to mate, giv e birth, feed, and nurse their y oung. The whales her e ar e v ery social, and they often giv e spectacular displays of breaching. Whale-watching tours ar e offered up and down this coastline, but Salinas and Puerto López are your best bases for setting out on a whale-watching excursion. See chapter 10. • Surfing Lonely Waves Along E cuador’s P acific Coast: Surfers lo ve isolated or undisco vered br eaks, and Ecuador is loaded with them. I n fact, even the most cr owded br eaks her e could be consider ed deser ted b y California standar ds. B each and point

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biological abundance. Located less than 2 hours nor th of Q uito, the cloud forests of M indo and B ellavista ar e rich and r ewarding stops for bir ders and nature lo vers of all stripes. Ov er 400 species of bir ds hav e been r ecorded here, and exper ts believ e the actual count is much higher. El Monte (& 09/ 3084-675; www .ecuadorcloudforest. com) and Bellavista Cloud F orest Reserve (& 02/2116-232; www .bella vistacloudforest.com) ar e two ex cellent lodges fr om which to base y our bir dwatching expeditions of this ar ea. S ee p. 139, as well as chapter 5. • Spotting Some of the More Than 600 Species in Podocarpus National Park: This remote national par k runs from a high of 3,700m (11,139 ft.) do wn to some 1,000m (3,281 ft.) abo ve sea level, and contains ecosystems that range from high paramo to cloud forest and rainfor est. The most common jumping-off points for visiting her e are Loja and Vilcabamba. If you’re looking for an excellent personal guide, contact Jorge L uis at Caminatas Andes S ureños (& 07/2673-147). See p. 231. • Catching S ight of H undreds of S pecies in E l O riente: The mid-elev ation

and lowland rainforests of Ecuador’s El Oriente are prime bir d-watching areas. Many lodges in this region have on-site bird-species lists that number 400 or more. S everal species of macaws fr olic overhead, while the pr ehistoric hoatzin inhabits the lo w branches of riv erside trees. Just about any of the lodges in E l Oriente can be consider ed top bir dwatching destinations, but I r ecommend the Napo Wildlife Center (www. napowildlifecenter.com), which has a couple of parr ot licks right on their grounds, where as many as several thousand mixed-flock parrots may gather on any day to extract minerals and nutrients fr om an exposed clay riv erbank. See chapter 12. • Seeing Endemic Species on the G alápagos I slands: What can y ou say? From the 13 species of Darwin’s finches, to the only subtr opical penguin, to the unique flightless cormorant, the G alápagos provide the greatest one-stop spot to check off a whole host of once-in-alifetime bir ds fr om y our life ’s list. I n fact, around half of all the bird fauna on the Galápagos is endemic, meaning you can only see them her e. S ee chapter 13.

6 T H E B E S T D E S T I N AT I O N S F O R FA M I L I E S • El Telefériqo & Vulqano Park (Quito; & 02/3250-076): I f y ou spend any time in Q uito, and if y ou have kids in tow, this is a must-stop . The fast and thrilling ride up the mountain in this cable-car gondola is usually enough to put a smile on most kids ’ faces, and there’s also an amusement par k ( Vulqano Park) at the base of the cable car . See p. 120. • Hacienda La Alegría (Aloag; & 02/ 2462-319; www.haciendalaalegria.com): This beautiful old hacienda is also a working farm. Kids can watch and even

lend a hand when the co ws are milked. Horseback riding is the specialty , and they hav e par ticularly good horses, trails, and trainers for intr oducing young riders to the spor t. Their safety concern and r ecord ar e exemplary. See p. 174. • Baños de A gua S anta: While best known as a backpacker and adv enturetravel hot spot, B años is also gr eat for kids. Vacationing E cuadorean families come her e, and many of the hotels and r esorts cater to families. Sangay

Spa-Hotel (& 03/2740-490; www. sangayspahotel.com) has a ton of ex cellent facilities and activities gear ed towards all ages. See chapter 8. • The G alápagos I slands: M any of the Galápagos cruise ships and tour companies offer specific family-oriented tours. There is a ton to see and do, and plenty

of science, natur e, and adv enture to keep the whole family inter ested and entertained. Tauk (& 800/788-7885 in the U.S. and Canada; www .tauck bridges.com) is an excellent soft-adventure company with distinctiv e family package tours to the G alápagos. S ee chapter 13.

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7 T H E B E S T LU X U R Y H O T E L S

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makes it one of the closest hotel options to the airport. See p. 111. La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa (Cotacachi; & 800/327-3573 in the U.S. and Canada, or 06/2915-237 in E cuador; www.mirage.com.ec): Arguably the most ex clusive and opulent boutique hotel in the countr y, La M irage offers refined accommodations, fine dining, and a spectacular spa. I f that ’s not enough, a range of ex cellent hikes and adventure activities is av ailable, and Otavalo is just a fe w minutes away. See p. 154. Samari S pa R esort (outside B años de Agua S anta; & 03/2741-855; www . samarispa.com): This plush and luxurious new hotel and spa sits at the base of Volcán Tungurahua, on the outskirts of Baños. R ooms hav e all the modern conveniences (a rarity in this ar ea), and there ar e beautiful design touches throughout. The spa is large and expansive. See p. 195. Hotel O ro Verde G uayaquil (Guayaquil; & 04/2327-999; www .oroverde hotels.com): Located in the center of the city, close to all the parks, museums, and scenic riv erside walkways, this is the top hotel in G uayaquil. R ooms have all been beautifully r emodeled, and the ser vice is refined and attentive. See p. 217. Finch B ay H otel (Santa C ruz I sland, Galápagos; & 02/2988-200 for r eservations office in Q uito; www.finchbay

T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

• JW M arriott H otel (Quito; & 800/ 228-9290 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/2972-000 in Ecuador; www.marriott hotels.com): With an imposing glassatrium-covered lobby, gorgeous r ooms, attentive ser vice, and good r estaurants, this is one of the top business-class hotels in E cuador. The pool, spa, and recreational facilities are excellent, as are the business services. See p. 105. • nü house (Quito; & 02/2557-845; www.nuhousehotels.com): H ip and contemporary, this ne w hotel sits right on the popular Plaza Foch, at the center of all the action in New Town. A host of great shops, restaurants, bars, and clubs are just outside its doors. S ee p. 105. • Hotel P atio Andaluz (Quito; & 02/ 2280-830; www .hotelpatioandaluz. com): This place just oozes colonial-era charm. The spacious restored old mansion featur es two large interior cour tyards. A ccommodations ar e super comfortable, and the ser vice is ex cellent. Plus it’s located in the heart of Old Town, right off the Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Grande). See p. 108. • Sheraton Q uito (Quito; & 800/3253535 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/ 2970-002 in E cuador; www .sheraton. com): A massiv e r emodeling, meticulous attention to detail, and fabulous service have made the S heraton one of my favorite hotels in Q uito. The facilities are all top-notch, and the location

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hotel.com): The only beachfr ont hotel on Santa Cruz is also the best. You’ll be pampered and w ell looked after at this posh and secluded r esort hotel. You’ll

also feel apart from the hustle and bustle that often characteriz es tourism in the Galápagos. See p. 351.

T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

8 T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E LY P R I C E D & BUDGET HOTELS

T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E LY P R I C E D & B U D G E T H O T E L S

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• Hotel Vieja Cuba (Quito; & 02/2906732; www.hotelviejacuba.com): Beautifully restored and wonder fully located, this M ariscal-district hotel pr ovides great v alue. H ardwood floors, mosaictile bathr ooms, a central cour tyard fountain, and an ex cellent r estaurant are just some of the per ks. See p. 106. • Hotel San Francisco de Quito (Quito; & 02/2287-758; www.sanfrancisco dequito.com.ec): O ffering tidy and comfortable r ooms in a wonder fully preserved 17th-centur y conv erted home, this is my favorite budget option in Q uito. This hotel is situated in the heart of O ld Town. You get colonial charm and a gr eat deal all in one. S ee p. 110. • Hacienda G uachala (Cangahua, Cayambe; & 02/2363-042; www . guachala.com): D ating back to 1580, this rustic old hacienda pr ovides all the colonial-era vibe and experience offered up by its fancier br ethren, at v ery reasonable prices. The r ooms ar e quite rustic, but y ou’ll hav e the undeniable feeling of staying at what was once a thriving colonial-era hacienda. A host of tours and activities ar e av ailable, including a number of horseback-riding adventures. See p. 156. • Hostal La P osada del Ar te (B años de Agua S anta; & 03/2740-083; www . posadadelarte.com): Ar tistic touches abound in this cozy and friendly hostal. The best rooms here have waterfall vie ws fr om priv ate balconies. S ee p. 197.

• Hacienda E l P orvenir (Cotopaxi; & 02/2231-806; www.tierradelvolcan. com): Wonderfully located on the flat paramo just belo w Volcán Cotopaxi, this humble hostel offers comfor table and inviting r ooms fr om which to explore the surr ounding ar ea. S ee p. 175. • Posada del Angel (Cuenca; & 07/ 2840-695; www .hostalposadadelangel. com): It’s hard to believ e you can find such a charming room in such a charming conv erted old colonial home for such a bargain. The building is over 120 years old, y et the place is liv ely and cheery. There ar e a couple of classic interior cour tyards and second-floor lounge areas. If you want more privacy, and a bit of a vie w, ask for a r oom on the third or fourth floor. See p. 220. • Manso B outique H ostal (Guayaquil; &/fax 09/6034-054; www.manso.com. ec): Located right on G uayaquil’s riverfront Malecón Simón Bolívar, this ne w boutique hotel offers up w ell-designed and equipped rooms in a remodeled old downtown building. The r estaurant here is also excellent. See p. 250. • Hostería Alándaluz (south of P uerto López; & 04/2780-686; www.alandaluz hosteria.com): An envir onmentally conscious and eclectic collection of rooms and bungalo ws on a beautiful spot along the P acific coast, this is one of my fav orite beach hotels in all of E cuador. R ooms come in a wide range of styles and prices, fr om semirustic doubles to almost opulent suites.

Even the least expensiv e options ar e quite nice. H eck, y ou can ev en camp here. See p. 263. • Farallón D illon (Ballenita; & 04/ 2953-611; www.farallondillon.com): Set on a steep hillside abo ve a beautiful stretch of beach, this eclectic and rambling hotel is one of the most unique along the E cuadorean coast. Antiques and nautical memorabilia abound, the

9 T H E B E S T E CO LO D G E S & H A C I E N D A S also hav e a condor r escue pr oject on their grounds. See p. 158. • Black S heep I nn (Chugchilán, Cotopaxi; & 03/2814-587; www.blacksheep inn.com): This isolated high-altitude ecolodge is built on a hillside o verlooking a beautiful riv er cany on. S ituated about midway along the famed Q uilotoa Loop , this is hands-do wn the best place to stay while taking par t in the hiking, biking, tr ekking, and other adventures av ailable in this pr etty and pristine area. See p. 182. • Hacienda Leito (outside Patate, Baños; & 03/2859-329; www .haciendaleito. com): This isolated hacienda provides a fabulous mix of old and new. The original ranch building, with its original cobblestone driveway, central fountain, and antique ar tworks and furnishings, is a classic example of a colonial-S panish hacienda. B ut the extensiv e spa, up-to-date r ooms, and fr ee Wi-Fi let you kno w y ou’re in the 21st centur y. See p. 187. • Hacienda S an A ugustín de C allo (Lasso, Cotopaxi; &/fax 02/2906-157; www.incahacienda.com): M y pick for the most unique hacienda in E cuador, this place is built upon the ruins of both an Inca palace and a colonial-era monastery. S ome of the r ooms her e hav e walls laid b y I nca masons, with their

1 T H E B E S T E CO LO D G E S & H A C I E N D A S

Two distinct, y et in some ways similar , lodging options in E cuador ar e small, converted old haciendas and isolated ecolodges. While the haciendas tend to be located on the high Andean plains, the ecolodges are mostly found in the Oriente or the Amaz on basin. Both tend to be small and isolated, and natur e-viewing and activ e adv enture activities ar e the order of the day. • Hacienda Cusín (San Pablo del Lago, Otavalo; & 06/2918-013; www. haciendacusin.com): This 17th-century hacienda was sold originally at auction in Spain by King P hillip II. It’s located just outside O tavalo, beside the pr etty San P ablo Lake. A ccommodations, food, and ser vice are all top-draw , and the surr ounding gar dens and v olcano views are delightful. See p. 154. • Hacienda Z uleta (Angochahua, Imbabura; & 06/2662-182; www . zuleta.com): With sprawling grounds; a working cheese, cattle, and horse farm; and the largest original entrance plaza of any hacienda in E cuador, this place exudes authenticity. Once the home of President G alo P laza, and still in his family, the hacienda offers wonder ful and comfor table r ooms, tasty familystyle meals, and a host of tour options. Horseback riding is excellent here. They

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T H E B E S T O F E C UA D O R

views are fabulous, and the restaurant is excellent. See p. 259. • Hotel C asablanca (P uerto B arquerizo Moreno, Isla San Cristóbal; &/fax 05/ 2520-392; jacquibaz@yahoo .com): When y ou can scor e a bayfr ont r oom with a balcony on the Galápagos Islands for under $100 (£67), you know you’ve found a good deal. A ccommodations here hav e loads of unique ar tistic touches. See p. 360.

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T H E B E S T B E D - A N D - B R E A K FA S T S & S M A L L I N N S

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distinctive stone work. All are stunning and unique, with ar tistic touches that range fr om hand-painted murals to working stone fireplaces. See p. 174. • Hostería La Andaluza (Chuquipogyo, Chimborazo; & 03/2949-370): Located on the outskir ts of Riobamba, in the shadow of Chimboraz o peak, this converted old hacienda is the best hotel for many miles ar ound. A r elaxed and cozy vibe and colonial-era authenticity ar e prevalent. The r estaurant her e is ex cellent, and a number of activities are available. See p. 204. • Kashama (outside S anto D omingo de los Colorados; & 02/2773-193; www. kashama.com): This is a beautiful and relaxing jungle lodge and spa set on the shores of the Río B lanco. C reative design elements and ar ty touches abound. The inviting pool featur es a tall, sculpted waterfall, and the excellent spa her e offers a wide range of tr eatments and cur es. All sor ts of tours and adventures are also offered. See p. 305. • Napo W ildlife Center (lo wer Río Napo; & 866/750-0830 in the U.S.,

or 02/6005-819 r eservation office in Quito; www .napowildlifecenter.com): Run as a joint v enture with the local Añangu Q uichua community , this is one of the top ecolodges in the Amazon basin. The 12 lakefr ont bungalows are rustically luxurious, and the guides, food, and service are superb. Tours and adventures ar e offer ed, including visits to local indigenous communities and tours of the riv ers, lagoons, and cr eeks of this lo wland rainfor est r egion. S ee p. 319. • Kapawi E colodge & R eserve (on the Río P astaza; & 02/6009-333; www. kapawi.com): This pioneering ecolodge is located deep in the Amazon rainforest among the villages of the A chuar tribe. You can only reach Kapawi on a private charter flight, and the isolation is par t of the charm. Beautiful cabins (built on stilts o ver a black-water lagoon), gr eat food, and fantastic guides don ’t hur t, either. This place pr ovides a top-notch Amazon rainfor est experience. S ee p. 328.

1 0 T H E B E S T B E D - A N D - B R E A K FA S T S & SMALL INNS • Mansión del Angel (Q uito; & 800/ 327-3573 in the U.S., or 02/2557-721 in E cuador; www .mansiondelangel. com.ec): With crystal chandeliers, O riental r ugs, and four-poster beds, this boutique hotel, in the hear t of Q uito’s New Town, offers all the elegance and style of a b ygone era. Located steps away from the bustle and blur of all the restaurants and clubs of the M ariscal district, this place is a quiet and calm oasis inside. See p. 107. • Hotel Café Cultura (Quito; &/fax 02/ 2224-271; www.cafecultura.com): Hip and European in feel, this cozy Mariscal

hotel featur es unique, ar tistically designed and decorated r ooms, an excellent r estaurant, and super ser vice. Hand-painted murals abound, and many of the bathrooms are works of art in themselves. See p. 106. • Hotel S anta L ucía (C uenca; & 07/ 2828-000; www.santaluciahotel.com): Set right in the heart of colonial Cuenca, in a house that dates to 1859, this is one of the best boutique hotels in E cuador. The colonial vibe is maintained throughout, but the r ooms also featur e plasma-screen televisions and fr ee Wi-Fi. The central cour tyard her e is

decor her e. When that stops piquing your inter est, y ou can mar vel at the ocean views from the hillside perch. See p. 281. • Red Mangrove Adventure Inn (Puerto Ayora, I sla S anta C ruz, G alápagos; & 888/254-3190 in the U.S. and Canada, or 05/2526-524 in E cuador; www.redmangrove.com): Located right on the bay, this hip hotel offers up the best r ooms right in P uerto Ay ora. A rambling str ucture filled with nooks and crannies, this hotel boasts tasteful and comfor table r ooms and the best restaurant on the island. These folks also run hotels on Isla Floreana and Isla Isabela. See p. 351.

1 1 T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S • Hacienda R umiloma (Quito; & 02/ 2548-206): I t’s wor th the shor t taxi ride to this elegant and eclectic r estaurant on the slopes of Volcán Pichincha. The menu is br oad, inv entive, and wonderfully ex ecuted. And the cozy dining room features an ex cellent view of the city below. See p. 111. • Hotel Ali S hungu (Otavalo; & 06/ 2920-750): H oused inside a popular hotel, this is my fav orite r estaurant in Otavalo. The healthy and creative international cuisine is ser ved in a cozy and inviting ambience. Locally gr own organic pr oduce is used wher ever possible. This is a welcome treat for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. See p. 152. • Café M ariane (Baños de Agua S anta; & 03/2740-911): I kno w B años is a backpacker and budget-hound hangout, but ev en if that description fits you, be sur e to tr eat yourself to an elegant F rench-Mediterranean meal at the best little r estaurant in to wn. S ee p. 198.

1 T H E B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S

• El A trio (Quito; & 02/2520-581 ): With an eclectic menu, elegant ambience, and wonder ful setting o verlooking the P laza F och, this is one of my favorite restaurants in Quito. The menu here is equally rewarding whether you’re coming for a snack, light lunch, or full meal. See p. 112. • Azuca Latin B istro (Quito; & 02/ 2907-164): Loud and lively most of the time, this ne w spot ser ves up ex cellent nuevo latino far e. M ojitos ar e the specialty drink, and ther e’s quite a v ariety of them on the menu her e. See p. 113. • Zazu (Quito; & 02/2543-559): Brash and bold, Q uito’s hippest ne w r estaurant is also one of its most satisfying. The Peruvian-born chef uses his nativ e sensibility, fr esh local ingr edients, and ample imagination to cr eate a consistently successful string of ne w and exciting dishes. J ust about ev erything on the menu shines, but my fav orite way to dine here is to trust the chef and sign on for his nightly tasting menu. See p. 117.

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home to a to wering magnolia tr ee, as well as an ex cellent r estaurant. S ee p. 219. • Mansión Alcázar (Cuenca; & 800/ 327-3573 in the U.S. and Canada, or 07/2823-918 in E cuador; www . mansionalcazar.com): Like the S anta Lucía (above), this charming little hotel is housed in a r emarkably well-restored old colonial mansion. The Alcázar has a pretty gar den and sev eral sumptuous sitting areas and lounges. See p. 218. • Vistalmar (Manta; & 05/2621-671; www.hosteriavistaalmar.com): From the two large jade horses near the entrance to the large B uddha sculptur e in the main lounge ar ea, y ou’ll be str uck at every turn b y the ar t, sculptur e, and

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THE BEST SHOPPING & MARKETS

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• Villa Rosa (Cuenca; & 07/2837-944): Excellent Ecuadorean cuisine is matched with an elegant setting and superb service in this Cuenca restaurant. Although traditional E cuadorean dishes ar e the mainstay here, they often are given little twists and turns that set them abo ve what y ou’ll find at most other local joints. This place is almost always busy—and it’s closed on most w eekend evenings—so reservations are essential. See p. 221. • Lo N uestro (Guayaquil; & 04/2386398): E legant and r elaxed, this is the best place in G uayaquil to enjoy classic Ecuadorean cooking in a r efined setting. The r estaurant is located a little outside do wntown, but it ’s definitely worth the ride. See p. 252. • Sucre (Guayaquil; & 04/2838-068): Guayaquil is experiencing a major boom in high-end dining, and this new fusion r estaurant is leading the way . The decor is chic and contemporar y, the bar is w ell stocked and beautiful,

and the food hits all the right mar ks. See p. 252. • Martinica (Manta; & 05/2613-735): Creative and hip, this homey restaurant stands head and shoulders abo ve the rest in Manta. The eclectic fusion menu is bolstered by a wide-ranging wine list. See p. 282. • Sea Flower Restaurant (Same; & 06/ 2733-369): It’s almost wor th a trip to Ecuador’s P acific coast just to dine at this delightful spot. P resentations ar e eye-catching, and the food liv es up to the fanfar e. B e sur e to hav e a r eservation—this place fills up fast. S ee p. 301. • Red Sushi (Puerto Ayora; & 05/2526524): With so much fresh seafood available just outside this r estaurant’s fr ont door and back do