Field Guide to California Rivers 9780520952195

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C A L I F O R N I A N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y G U I D E S

FIELD GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA RIVERS

California Natural Histor y Guides Phyllis M. Faber and Br uce M. Pavlik, General Editors

F ield Guide to

CALIFORNIA RIVERS T im Palmer With illustrations by William E. Avery

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS Ber keley

Los Angeles

London

University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu. California Natural History Guide Series No. 105 University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, England © 2012 by The Regents of the University of California All photos © 2012 by Tim Palmer Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Palmer, Tim, 1948Field guide to California’s rivers / Tim Palmer.—1st ed. p. cm.—(California natural history guides) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-520-26643-8 (hardback)—ISBN 978-0-520-26644-5 (paper) 1. Rivers—California—Guidebooks. 2. Rivers—California—Pictorial works. 3. Natural history—California. I. Title. GB1225.C3P348 2012 551.48'309794—dc23 Manufactured in China 16 15 14 13 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4

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The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (R 1997) (Permanence of Paper). Cover image: Klamath River. Photo by Tim Palmer. Title page image: Stanislaus River in the Central Valley. Photo by Tim Palmer.

The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Gordon and Betty Moore Fund in Environmental Studies and the General Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation.

C ONT E NTS

Welcome to the World of California Rivers Acknowledgments A Word of Warning

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS The Network of Rivers The Natural History of Rivers

ix xv xvii

1 2 8

The Problems, Protection, and Restoration of California Rivers

27

Fifty Common Species of River Plants and Animals

44

RIVER PROFILES North Coast

67 71

Sacramento Basin

129

San Joaquin Basin

173

Central and South Coast

221

Eastern Sierra Nevada

257

Deserts

279

Appendices Sources Additional Captions Index

291 313 317 319

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WELC OME TO TH E WO RLD OF C A LIF ORN IA RIV ERS

From the Pacific Coast to the desert, silvery riffles, thrilling whitewater, and peaceful winding ribbons of life all appeal to me, and I think that they call to many of us: Come and explore! Learn about these vital waterways. Enjoy these valleys and canyons from their mountaintop origins down to their tidal estuaries. The state’s 90 named rivers plus hundreds of forks, branches, and smaller tributaries—all considered “rivers” in this book—form a 172,000mile network of flowing water that provides for our city and farm needs, sustains fish and wildlife, and gives us an opportunity to walk along the riparian edge, to fish for sport and for dinner, and to paddle with the flow for a few hours, days, or weeks. Some streams grace the greenways of cities, some drift through farmland, and many plunge from mountain ranges with memorable passages through enchanting terrain. Unequalled in its breadth of climate, geography, and habitat, California has the most diverse system of rivers in America. Scores of major streams and thousands of small ones carry runoff from mossy forests receiving 100 inches of rain a year and also in the driest of deserts where alkali washes are rarely dampened. Streams flow from the height of Mount Whitney—highest peak in 48 states—and to sea-level estuaries where they replenish the ocean and complete the hydrologic cycle. Superlatives apply to many streams. The powerful Klamath is the largest relatively intact watershed on the West Coast and the largest river mouth that’s completely natural—no jetties or dredged harbor. The American River has one of the most-used urban river greenways in the country, and its South Fork has some of the most-paddled rapids. The Merced plunges over an incomparable collection of waterfalls in Yosemite National Park. The Tuolumne offers an unequalled canyon hike and a premier whitewater run. The Kings has the greatest undammed vertical drop in the nation and the deepest canyon. The free-flowing mileages of the Klamath, Sacramento, and Eel are among the longest on the West Coast. This short list of superlatives offers just a sample. Taking it all in, Field Guide to California Rivers presents an introduction to the state’s free-flowing waters. Think of it as a reference for play no ix

Whitney Creek flows from California’s highest peak.

matter what your age or abilities, for work if you’re professionally involved with rivers, and for daily living if you simply want to know more about your watery backyard. If you’re a river enthusiast of any kind—or if you want to be—this handy field guide and sourcebook was made for your bookshelf, boat, backpack, and car. Rivers can give us all the opportunity to see and enjoy the outdoors close to home without the costs that longdistance trips entail. Beyond its useful and playful modes, this book is also intended to fill another need. With massive damage already done to our rivers and more on the way, these are not ordinary times. So the following pages will arm the reader with information and insights to bolster both appreciation and involvement. More fundamentally, our impressions of places are often formed principally by the human history of what has happened there, along with the current clutter of artifacts from our society, and those impressions can lack an awareness of the natural environment that makes all life possible. This book humbly aims to reorient that perspective and give the rivers and their life-giving nature the spotlight. Let me say this another way: if we know a river only as the source of gold that was mined, then we might expect nothing else from that stream. But if we know it as a place that has nourished an abundance of life and represented the finest of beauty since the beginning of time, then we will expect—and perhaps demand—that the life and beauty of the stream be sustained, protected, or restored for all the generations to come. With thoughts such as these in mind, I’ve explored and enjoyed streams throughout the state for the past 40 years. Wanting to see it all, I’ve paddled my canoe or rowed my whitewater raft on 50 different rivers and streams, x

WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA RIVERS

Fly fishing in the Truckee River near Martis Creek.

Kayaking on the Kings River above Rogers Crossing.

and hiked along the shorelines of many other waterways wherever I could find trails and in a lot of places where I couldn’t. Guidebooks of various kinds were helpful for boating, fishing, or hiking, but none offered a revealing overview or covered all these activities. None provided a context for enjoying or learning about the rivers in all the complexity of their nature. Through these years I’ve also written about rivers and photographed them for other books, and along the way I’ve consulted hundreds WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA RIVERS

xi

of sources and interviewed dozens of experts. All this has enhanced my appreciation and ongoing experience with rivers. Drawing from that background, this book combines the most useful, interesting, and important information for each stream. Beyond the basics about places to go, I offer an interpretative approach—a view of the big picture about how the river systems fit together, which rivers exemplify a particular opportunity or trait, which plants and animals, along with geologic and hydrologic processes, you’ll find along a particular stream. This is the book I always wished I’d had as I explored the streams and pondered their nature. One thing I don’t want this guidebook to do is dampen the sense of adventure that each of us can experience when we head out into the natural world. I feel that exploring on my own and without expectations is the best way to go. But I also believe that there’s much to be gained by learning about a river and its features. I know that having some help along the way can make the experience better and save a lot of gas and time while avoiding unwelcome danger. So I’d be honored to help you figure out where to go. Yet I make no pretenses about running your trip. Unlike some guides, I don’t offer advice about how to run the rapids, and I don’t tell you what’s around the next bend in the trail. That’s for you to determine and see. I do try to identify which rivers, and which sections of them, are appealing given different interests, skills, and commitments of time. I hope that all this complements the remarkable feeling of going out and discovering something new and rewarding on your own. Let me admit that on every page I had to trim to keep this field guide from bulging to three times its practical size. So if there’s something you wanted to hear more about, rest assured that I, too, wanted to be more comprehensive. The list of sources will help if you want to follow up for more information. “The Network of Rivers” gets us to the water and describes California’s network of streams. “The Natural History of Rivers” introduces the nature and ecology of rivers and riparian lands and discusses how the natural processes of rivers are important. “The Problems, Protection, and Restoration of California Rivers” offers a primer on the problems of rivers, and on the solutions. I include tips on how to identify threats that your river faces. With sketches and descriptions, “Fifty Common Species of River Plants and Animals” identifies the most common or important plants and animals you might see. The river profiles form the heart of the book—river-by-river dispatches for all major streams and many smaller ones. I explore each river’s characteristics, the features that make it valuable, the life it supports, notable environmental history including the troubles the river now faces, and the ways to see and enjoy the stream by hiking, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, or rafting. Photos focus on nature rather than human culture along the rivers. While I note significant waterworks, this is not a book about water delivery systems. For that, see David Carle’s Introduction to Water in xii

WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA RIVERS

California. Nor does this field guide consider reservoirs. When rivers are dammed, they are rivers no more; as human-made flatwater, their hydrology and biology are completely altered. Some reservoirs are officially named “lakes,” but I call them “reservoirs” for the simple reason that— formed by dams rather than natural processes—that’s what they are. While I briefly cover the history of river protection, I leave general history, including that of Native Americans, to a stack of other volumes. The rivers of California have undergone egregious changes, yet priceless values remain. I hope that having this book in hand will help you enjoy the rivers more and will lead you to new outlooks, expectations, and commitments about the future and fate of these special places.

WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA RIVERS

xiii

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AC K NOWL ED G M EN T S

My wife, Ann Vileisis, has contributed endless amounts of encouragement, support, and love from the beginning of this project to the end. A rivers enthusiast when we met years ago, she accompanied me on many trips in her kayak, introduced intriguing ideas at every turn, applied her sharp editing skills, kept our computers and household running with special attention to healthy meals, and supported my efforts throughout, even while working on several fascinating and demanding books and other projects of her own. At the University of California Press, Jenny Wapner responded to my idea for a new type of field guide with great enthusiasm, as did natural history series editor Phyllis Faber. Editor Kim Robinson carried my work through the maze of publishing with skill and a dedicated sense of purpose. Assistant Julia Uelman helped with important details, and it was also a pleasure to work with science editor Chuck Crumly and the entire UC Press staff. Chiefly for inspiration these days, I remain grateful to Ernest Callenbach, who was my first editor at the Press. For the illustrations in “Fifty Common Species of River Plants and Animals,” I cannot offer enough thanks and praise to Ph.D. biologist and artist Bill Avery. When finding and using existing drawings proved to be more troublesome than I had assumed, I called Bill and he immediately went to work detailing most of the drawings in that section. For permissions or additional drawings, Bill can be reached by email at averyw@csus. edu, or through the biology department at Sacramento State University. Likewise, Andrea Pickart generously provided her exquisite renderings of trees, originally published in Trees and Shrubs of California. Jerry Meral provided a wealth of information and read my text, offering excellent suggestions from his perspective as an inveterate river runner, the past director of the Planning and Conservation League, a former and once-again Deputy Director of the State Department of Water Resources, and Ph.D. zoologist. Paddler and photographer Jeff Pfleuger also reviewed the manuscript with an eye toward whitewater. With rare knowledge of both conservation issues and streams in the field, Steve Evans of Friends of the River was generous in his review and in filling important gaps about conservation and access. Fish biologist Peter Moyle and geologist Jeffery Mount at the University of California at Davis reviewed much of the xv

manuscript and offered helpful suggestions. Dr. Moyle’s incomparable Inland Fishes of California is a source that I drew from constantly and only sometimes cited. Geographer Steve Cunha at Humboldt State University and naturalist/guidebook author John Muir Laws reviewed parts of “The Natural History of Rivers” and “Fifty Common Species of River Plants and Animals.” Data regarding length, volume, and watershed area were largely calculated by global information systems (GIS) specialists Matthew Mayfield, Ian Shives, and Amy Haak of Conservation Geography; many thanks for an enormous amount of work. Surprising as it may seem, this appears to be the first such compilation of these basic statistics for California rivers. Tom Hicks and Mark Dubois provided insight and encouragement. A cast of other local experts—a veritable who’s-who of California rivers—read portions of the manuscript, checked for errors, and contributed wisely; much appreciation to Stan Bales, Bob Barnes, Pete Bell, Scott Bowman, Bill Center, Stacy Corless, Katherine Evatt, Donn Furman, Phil Garone, Bob Hackamack, Larry Hogue, Paul Martzen, Brad Monsma, Nadananda, Aida Parkinson, Eric Peach, Mike Prather, Jenny Price, Jason Rainey, Greg Reis, Chuck Richards, Brian Roth, Monty Schmitt, Rick Stock, Ron Stork, Craig Tucker, Lisa Wallace, and Grant Werschkull. I’m indebted to other guidebook writers, and especially Jim Cassady. For information throughout, I’m grateful to many fine writers, researchers, and scientists; see the list of sources. For logistical and other support varying from canoe and raft trip shuttles to campsites and personal tours of their streams, I’d like to thank Mike Prather, Grant Werschkull, Patty McCleary, Bill and Robin Center, Phil Garone, John and Patty Brissenden, Joe Antrim, and Patrick Koepel. Steve Sweringen of the Camera Clinic in Sparks, Nevada, kept my photo equipment in top shape, and David Fortney and Steve Thompson offered guidance about digital photography, although the images you see here were shot with film. Keith Miller of California Canoe and Kayak was my source of excellent boating gear.

xvi

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

A WORD O F WA RN IN G

The author and publisher assume no responsibility or liability with respect to personal injury, property damage, loss of time or money, or other loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by activities in or near the rivers covered in this book. Much of this book is dedicated to interpretive narrative about California’s rivers, but it also includes information about hiking, boating, and fishing. These river sports are inherently hazardous and involve risks. This book assumes that each person is responsible for his or her own safety, and each accepts all risk for actions that are taken. Because the skills of readers are unknown to the author, information here cannot be construed to be a recommendation for any particular individual to visit the rivers covered, and makes no representations that any activity mentioned here is safe for you or your party. Information here is no substitute for experience, training, skill, prudence, common sense, adequate equipment, safe levels of flow, and competent personal assessment of dangers. The book has been written as accurately as possible, but mistakes can occur and conditions change. Information is included from other books and websites written by other highly experienced authors. Because of the large number of river reaches in California and the difficulty of paddling some of these, not all the information from these other sources has been verified by this author; I have paddled on many but not nearly all the reaches referred to in this book. People paddling or rowing in difficult whitewater should consult other guides and other information sources for further details. Always beware: judgments of hazards—even in the international system of whitewater difficulty—vary with the individual, and conditions change daily and annually. Regardless of what any guide says, river users need to know their own limitations and those of the conditions at the time of their outing. Fluctuations in water level and weather can alter risks greatly from assessments covered here or elsewhere, and hazards such as fallen logs or landslides can happen at any time and change conditions dramatically. Be prepared. Get the necessary training for the activities you pursue. Exercise your own observations and judgment in all cases. If you go boating, see the Safety Code of American Whitewater (www.americanwhitewater.org/content/Wiki/safety:start) and follow it. Regarding boating information in “River Profiles,” see important explanations at the beginning of that section. xvii

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

A N IN T ROD UC TIO N TO THE R IVER S

T H E N E T WORK O F RI V E RS

Most California rivers flow into the Pacific, but some flow into landlocked basins of the interior deserts. This field guide groups the rivers into six hydrologic regions. Each includes a specific basin (also called a watershed, which is all the land that drains into a river), or a collection of smaller but similar basins, such as the North Coast region. Most water flows in just four rivers: the Sacramento, Klamath, Eel, and San Joaquin. The combined North Coast rivers along with the Sacramento and San Joaquin carry 90 percent of the state’s total runoff. Most people and most farmlands lie south of Sacramento, and so the development of California’s rivers has been a story of tapping these northern and Sierra Nevada rivers and diverting them south or to the coast.

California’s Largest and Longest Rivers The state’s largest river in volume of flow is the Sacramento, followed by the Klamath and Colorado, though by the time the Colorado leaves the state it’s diverted with little left in the channel. The longest river under one name is the 374-mile Sacramento, though substantial mileage is tidal in the delta and San Francisco Bay. The Pit, however, is the upper Sacramento’s largest source, and when combined with the Sacramento River below its mouth, totals 540 miles. Similarly, though small in volume, the San Joaquin with its South Fork source totals 393 miles—longer than the Sacramento or Klamath. The table that follows lists the volume of the largest rivers plus the mileage of major rivers plus their key headwaters tributary—in effect the same stream under a separate name. For data methods, see the beginning of the river profiles.

North Coast Rivers The North Coast region is soaked by winter rains, and rivers here account for 43 percent of California’s runoff. They wind through conifer-clad mountains and green valleys that are fog-shrouded or sun-basked depending on the month of the year, and they carry powerful winter flows to sea-level estuaries or ocean beaches at the dramatic coastal escarpment that continues almost uninterrupted from San Francisco to Oregon. The Klamath is the largest waterway here, beginning in the interior mountains of Oregon and cutting an epic course across the southern Cascade, Klamath, and Coast ranges. 2

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

California’s Largest and Longest Rivers River

Volume (mean cfs)

Watershed (square miles)

Length (miles)

Sacramento (without San Joaquin) Klamath

25,408

374 to Golden Gate (384 with SFk)

20,520

Colorado Feather

11,995 at Parker Dam 7,933

Eel Trinity American Pit

7,673 4,866 3,685 4,952

San Joaquin Smith American, NFk Owens Salinas

4,375 4,014 2,261 684 388

257 (387 with Williamson in Oregon) 240 in California 1,450 total 74 (185 with MFk and its headwaters) 200 166 32 (120 with NFk) 207 (241 with SFk; 540 with SFk + Sacramento) 342 (393 with SFk) 18 (59 with SFk) 88 180 188

21,350 (without San Joaquin and delta) 14,836 242,000 5,844 3,681 2,969 2,120 4,887 38,103 679 1,844 1,832 3,955

MFk, Middle Fork; NFk, North Fork; SFk, South Fork. Note: For data methods, see the beginning of “River Profiles.”

Ukonom Creek—a Klamath tributary—illustrates the lush forests, clear water, and undeveloped watersheds of the North Coast.

THE NETWORK OF RIVERS

3

The other major river of the north is the Eel, with tributaries including the Van Duzen, Middle Fork, and South Fork. From the Smith, at the Oregon border, through the Eel, the rivers are relatively dam-free and clean, with much of their watershed acreages in public ownership, with surviving though imperiled runs of salmon and Steelhead, and with far less development pressure than elsewhere. Though not without problems, this watery hinterland of northern California is one of the most outstanding regions of wild rivers in America. South of the Eel, the rivers are relatively small, except for the Russian as it flows through an interior valley toward San Francisco Bay but then turns sharply out to sea.

Sacramento Basin Draining the interior of northern California, this is the state’s largest river, carrying about 31 percent of total runoff. Steep headwaters foam through shading forests until trapped behind Shasta Dam, followed by a long passage through the northern half of the Central Valley, where most of the frontage is confined by levees and farmland. The Pit—a tributary that’s larger in volume and longer than the Sacramento where they meet—collects hearty spring discharges of the Fall River along with Hat and Burney creeks. This remote northeastern corner of California is the fly-fisherman’s paradise, with spring creeks that rival the legendary streams of Yellowstone. Farther south, a series of fairly intact

A Sacramento tributary, the South Fork American is California’s most popular paddling stream. 4

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

creeks aim west from Lassen Peak at the southern limits of the Cascade Mountains. A small set of Sacramento tributaries drains the eastern slope of the coastal mountains, but most streams there sink into gravel or are depleted for irrigation before reaching the river. In the lower basin, Cache Creek is the largest Sacramento tributary from the west and carves wild canyons. The third set of tributaries drains the Sierra Nevada and provide by far the greatest flows to the Sacramento, beginning with the Feather River and continuing through the American. The lower Sacramento eases past the state capital nearly at sea level, and just below, the Sacramento Delta is one of the largest deltas in the nation.

San Joaquin Basin California’s third hydrologic region, the San Joaquin River Basin covers the southern half of the Sierra and occupies the southern Central Valley. Though it’s larger than the Sacramento Basin in area, precipitation decreases in the south, so this river carries only 11 percent of the state’s runoff—one-third the Sacramento’s volume—and most is diverted by irrigators. Nearly all the water comes from Sierra Nevada tributaries extending from the Cosumnes south through the high-mountain headwaters of the San Joaquin.

The Tuolumne River typifies the granite canyons of higher elevations in the San Joaquin Basin. THE NETWORK OF RIVERS

5

South of the San Joaquin, the added volume of the Tulare Lake Basin, which historically overflowed into the San Joaquin, would raise the greater San Joaquin’s total to about 16 percent of California runoff. Flowing toward the dried-up Tulare Lake, the Kings River churns from alpine terrain through its Middle and South forks in Kings Canyon National Park. The Kaweah, Tule, and Kern likewise flow from high mountains to the southern Central Valley. All the major San Joaquin tributaries are dammed except the diminutive Cosumnes and Clavey, along with some forks of the larger streams. Hydropower dams were built even at high elevations. Yet impressive freeflowing mileage remains. Stellar reaches in the Sierra Nevada later tumble with rapids through the pines, oaks, and chaparral of the foothills, followed by languid windings through the Central Valley. These lower reaches are typically entrenched with wooded banks 10 to 20 feet high and farmland just beyond. Occasional parks are found, but most valley reaches are inaccessible to the public. The west side of the San Joaquin Valley—draining the interior Coast Range—sees little runoff because of a dry climate, the intervening Salinas River Valley to the west, and the rain-shadow effect of coastal mountains.

Central and South Coast The state’s fourth hydrologic region is composed of the rivers at the Central and South coasts and accounts for 5 percent of statewide runoff. Streams flush quickly from the 500-mile-long Coast Range that rises south of San Francisco—longer than the Sierra but producing a small fraction of the water. Springtime—with streams flowing, riparian forests leafing, and hillsides green with grass and flowers—is the best time to see these small rivers. The San Lorenzo is a major stream of the Central Coast as it bubbles down from redwood forests of the Santa Cruz Mountains. On the east side of the coastal mountains, the depleted Salinas riffles north to Monterey Bay. Along the South Coast, streams are even smaller. As they exit rugged canyons they drop bedloads of gravel in broad alluvial plains where remaining water seeps underground except during peak storms.

Eastern Sierra Nevada Rivers of the Eastern Sierra account for only 4.5 percent of statewide runoff but are spectacular with steep gradients; this is unlike any other group of streams in America. The Truckee, Carson, and Walker fall from the Sierra escarpment. To the south, the Owens River picks up Sierra snowmelt from stunning tributaries and takes a remarkable path through the desert before being diverted to Los Angeles. 6

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

Deserts In one of America’s driest regions, these streams provide only 0.3 percent of the California runoff, not including the giant Colorado River, whose volume comes entirely from other states. In the heart of the Mojave Desert, the Amargosa River ends in Death Valley. Palm Canyon Creek nourishes rare oases of fan palms. Marking the border of California and Arizona, the Colorado carries prodigious runoff from the Rocky Mountains but is completely tapped before reaching its estuary at the Gulf of California in Mexico. All these rivers and streams are formed and governed by the great natural systems that surround them. Geologic processes and climate shape the hydrologic makeup of each stream and ultimately determine what plants and animals will thrive. Those natural processes and the life forms they support are the topics of the next section.

THE NETWORK OF RIVERS

7

T H E N AT U R AL H I STORY O F R I VE R S

The fundamental nature of any river—the way it looks and works—is a result of five factors. First, geologic events created the mountain ranges, topography, and bedrock that a river flows through—the big backdrop. Second, climate governs the amount and timing of the all-important rain and snow. Third, the forces of geology and climate together determine the hydrology, or characteristics of flow, including cycles of floods and drought. This flow is what has sculpted valleys and canyons into the profiles we recognize today, and it continues to determine the morphology or shape of riverbeds as well as that of shorelines and floodplains. Fourth, the combined effects of geology, climate, and hydrology govern what plants can live in and along a river. Finally, plant life and all the other factors define what fish and wildlife will thrive. Fascinating relationships between flora and fauna affect the population and health of each species. The extraordinary physical and biological diversity of California rivers is due to the multitude of ways that all these interactions vary across the state.

The South Fork Mokelumne nourishes its green corridor of life near the Hwy. 26 bridge. 8

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

Geology Plate tectonics is the process that initially created the landscapes we now know. Distinct sections of the earth’s crust float on a mantle and molten core, which allow the surface crust to move. In and along California, the Pacific Plate is slowly migrating north along the edge of the North American Plate, and the abrasive meeting place of the two is the San Andreas and related faults. The Pacific Plate boundary turns sharply out to sea at Cape Mendocino (not the town of Mendocino, but the westwardjutting headland north of the Mattole River), where the undersea Gorda Plate lies next to the North American Plate. Most of this heavier seabottom plate is pushed underground while the larger, lighter terrestrial plate glides westward over it. In the process, fragments of the down-bound crust break off at the subduction zone and accumulate as the Coast Ranges. As the subducted material is buried deeper and deeper, it heats, melts, and later erupts in volcanoes of the southern Cascade Range including Shasta and Lassen. A similar tectonic process formed the Sierra Nevada. Here a pluton of molten underground rock hardened into granite and then through faulting emerged to become the spectacular mountain chain we know, once overlying rock eroded away. Meanwhile, the Great Basin landscape east of the Sierra has been rifting or spreading apart to form parallel ranges that trap waters traveling between them. With this creation story of plate tectonics and mountain formation in mind, we’ll now consider some of the geologic forces specifically affecting rivers (for individual streams, see the river profiles). In northwestern California, ancient plates or terranes long ago collided with the West Coast and pushed up today’s more easterly outliers of the Coast Range complex—for example, the Marble and Yolla Bolly ranges. Rivers forming in these mountains and progressing seaward became blocked by the rising of the newer and westerly coastal ranges and repeatedly found their paths of least resistance along the weakest rock strata following fault lines. These typically run northwest to southeast (parallel to the plate boundaries), and a number of streams flow on strikingly similar northwest routes to the ocean. This cant is evident at the lower Smith, Klamath, and Trinity; also in the northwest aim of Redwood Creek, Mad River, and the Mattole; and along much of the Eel and its South Fork (see map). The more southerly Russian and Salinas rivers parallel northwest–southeast fault lines in similar ways. Pushed up by tectonic action where the Pacific and North American plates meet, and stretching north to south along much of the coastal edge of northern California, the Franciscan Complex is a large formation of mixed rock scraped off the bottom of ancient seafloors. Thoroughly fractured by seismic action, it was crumpled against the western edge of North America as part of the Coast Ranges. This broken, bent, and altered rock is highly susceptible to weathering, and is one reason that North Coast rivers have exceptionally erodible watersheds. The Eel, for example, carries N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

9

the highest load of sediment as a percentage of water volume in the United States—even higher than the muddy Mississippi (one would not guess this from the Eel’s lucid green pools in summer; the silt is transported mostly during winter floods). Farther inland, but still within the Coast and Klamath ranges, millions of years of seismic activity have mixed soft rock strata with outcrops of harder sandstone and granite. Where these resistant formations intersect with rivers, they create rapids. Gabbro and basalt are also hard rocks that resist erosion and result in gorges such as Oregon Hole on the Middle Fork Smith and Burnt Ranch on the Trinity. Throughout the greater coastal ranges, metamorphic and sedimentary rocks from previous ocean floors generally characterize the stream channels, unlike the northeast and the Sierra Nevada, where igneous rocks either monopolize or dominate. In the northeastern reaches of the state, the Cascade Mountains were formed by volcanic eruptions. These included the great volcanoes, Shasta and Lassen, and also widespread lava flows at lower elevations. Once it hardens, lava is porous and allows water to accumulate in air spaces. These subterranean reservoirs ultimately discharge as groundwater and contribute to the network of spring-fed streams at the Modoc Plateau and Cascades. The Fall, Pit, McCloud, upper Sacramento, and Shasta rivers are all fed by spring discharges that emanate from hardened lava. Lava serially seeped out of the earth in sheets, forming layers up to several hundred feet thick. This hard rock now resists erosion, and so streams in the volcanic regions drop over falls when they come to a fracture or to the edge of a lava formation. Burney Falls and the falls of the McCloud are spectacular examples. All these northeastern groundwater-fed streams have cold currents due to the dark and chilled nature of their underground sources. They also have relatively steady flows, because the groundwater seeps slowly as spring discharges from natural reservoirs. The dual qualities of coldness and steadiness make these rivers prime trout habitat. Though it’s not plentiful in the north or statewide, limestone is another ingredient that makes for biologically rich waters. Where it does occur, the carbonate breakdown products provide excellent building blocks for aquatic life. Even without limestone, many California streams are somewhat endowed with calcium, and with it, mussels and crustaceans readily form their shells and carapaces, and aquatic insects multiply, together forming the basis of aquatic food chains that support a host of fish, birds, and other wildlife. South of the volcanic Cascades, the signature rock of the Sierra Nevada’s 400-mile-long range is granite. Boulders, cobbles, and gravel of gray and nearly white granite typify rivers from the North Fork of the Feather southward through the Kern. Unlike the porous volcanic rock of the Cascades, the Sierra granite sheds snowmelt rapidly in flushes of springtime and early-summer runoff followed by several months of low flow. In the high Sierra, rapids are often formed when rockslides of 10

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

Headwaters of Shadow Creek gather from snowmelt beneath the towering metamorphic monolith of Mount Ritter in the Middle Fork San Joaquin Basin.

the resistant granite clog river channels. The magnificent waterfalls that characterize upper sections of many Sierra streams—especially from the Tuolumne southward—occur where water flows over massive slabs of granite. Other waterfalls occur where tributary streams from “hanging valleys” enter larger valleys scoured deep by glaciation. Ice filled these larger valleys to a height where the tributaries and their own glaciers flowed directly onto the great mass of trunk ice, and were unable to keep pace with the erosive rate, as side streams usually do. One of the most consequential geologic factors affecting California rivers has been the presence of gold. In foothill elevations along the edge of the Sierra’s granite pluton, the northern Sierra has an eclectic mix of metamorphic, sedimentary, and volcanic rocks, including veins of quartz that were intruded from deeper plutonic sources and into the overlying mix of rocks. From these quartz intrusions, gold deposits broke free when the parent rock eroded, and eventually the gold fragments washed into rivers. Even tiny specks of gold are dense, and they settled on gravel bars and in low spots in the riverbeds. These water-delivered (placer) deposits extend from the Feather Basin to the Merced, and are also found in northern California streams such as the Trinity and Salmon. Placer deposits ultimately accounted for 40 percent of the gold extracted in California. Beginning with the Gold Rush of 1848, rivers in gold country suffered what may have been the greatest devastation ever incurred upon riverscapes anywhere in America. Streambeds and floodplains were literally N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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turned upside down by dredgers, and the high-powered water cannons of hydraulic miners washed whole mountainsides into streams. The resulting silt and debris wreaked havoc on all they touched including salmon spawning beds, downstream wetlands, riparian farmland, and San Francisco Bay. More than a century later the effects can still be seen, especially in rivers where dredging was done at a massive scale such as the Yuba above Marysville, Tuolumne below LaGrange, and Merced near Snelling. In today’s beautiful foothill reaches of the Feather, Yuba, American, Stanislaus, Mokelumne, Tuolumne, and Merced, piles of cobbles still indicate where the floodplain and riverbed were excavated. Sharp rocks, poorly sorted alluvium, absence of mature floodplain forests, and depauperate streamlife all remain the legacy of the often-revered ’49ers as well as the miners that followed. Toxic mercury remains from the processing of the gold. Though thousands of people enjoy rafting, kayaking, and swimming in these rivers today, their fisheries and related life remain compromised by mining abuse. However, tremendous recovery has occurred, and further recovery continues. On the east side of the Sierra, geologic characteristics of the desert and the rifting of the Great Basin shape the region’s rivers. Historically the Susan, Truckee, Carson, Walker, Mono Lake tributaries, and Owens nourished unique systems of life and eventually evaporated in vast landlocked lakes. Today the rivers are heavily tapped and depleted before they reach their ends, and their historic lakebeds are exposed by receding water levels. With no outlets, the remaining runoff becomes more and more saline as water evaporates. Mono and Pyramid lakes are two lakes now being renourished with the flows they need, at least to a partial extent. Beyond the reach of Sierra streams, the extremely arid valleys of California’s southeastern desert are landlocked; most runoff sinks into alluvial fans, though flash floods surge briefly in rivers that empty onto alkali playas. During the ice ages the desert rivers carried vast surging glacial runoff from the Sierra Nevada, most of which drained into Death Valley through a vast network of lakes and linked rivers. In geologic time, the western base of the Sierra Nevada was once the Pacific Coast, and lowlands there subsided and filled with silt washed down from the mountains, eventually accumulating to a depth of 20,000 feet, and the inland sea became today’s Central Valley. Later, the Coast Range uplift blocked the Sierra rivers from former exits to the Pacific, leaving them to accumulate in the north–south alignment of today’s Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. With the flush of rain and snowmelt, these arteries historically ponded into extensive wetlands, riparian forests, and plains of native grasses so fruitful they were called an “American Serengeti.” The Sacramento and San Joaquin now join and advance out to sea through the Golden Gate—the only remaining gap that completely penetrates the Coast Range south of the Klamath. California’s southern mountains, including the Coast, Transverse, and Peninsular ranges, arose as a result of tectonic activity along the San Andreas and related faults. These precipitous, fractured, youthful ranges 12

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are cut by steep-gradient streams that show some of the most vivid examples of raw erosion in America. Loosened by earthquakes and exposed to periodic fire, enormous volumes of soil, rock, and mud are flushed down southern California’s steep watercourses when the mountains are pounded with rain.

Climate The climate that delivers the water determines the flow of streams everywhere. This all starts with the Pacific High—a vast weather system that governs California’s weather. It originates with the constant warming of air in the tropics. That hot air rises in elevation over the equator until it cools and spreads north and south. Then, being colder and heavier, it descends once again as a high-pressure block at mid-latitudes. All summer—and in much of spring and autumn—the Pacific High pushes cloudy low-pressure systems away from California and keeps the skies clear. With autumn’s changing orientation of the earth relative to the sun, and subsequent winter cooling at California’s latitudes, the high-pressure belt migrates south, allowing wet low-pressure fronts to approach from the Pacific. This annual cycle gives the state a Mediterranean climate—dry hot summers and cool wet winters. Following temperature gradients, the Pacific High is strongest to the south and grows weaker to the north, and so the climate is progressively wetter to the north. All the North Coast rivers benefit from heavy winter rains and a long wet season. The rivers rise and fall in cadence with the storms, and on queue, the salmon and Steelhead enter from the ocean and swim upstream to spawn. Even in the north, summers are dry, and so rivers drop to a fraction of their winter levels. Plants that require yearround moisture, such as redwoods, are forced to depend on fog or on groundwater present on floodplains. The Sierra Nevada rivers are also affected by the northern storm phenomenon: 80 inches of precipitation is common in the northern Sierra while southern peaks typically get 40 inches, and the rivers respond accordingly. With a shorter rainy season and smaller storms, coastal southern California receives about 15 inches of rain a year; rivers there are small and easily depleted during the dry season. Throughout California, extended droughts can last for several years. Likewise, some years have torrential amounts of rain and flooding, peaking from November through February. The hemispheric influence of the Pacific High and its adjacent lowpressure systems is the master governor of precipitation, but mountain ranges also acutely influence rain and snow. The western, windward sides of California’s north–south ranges force saturated clouds blowing in from the Pacific to rise and cool, and the atmospheric vapor condenses into N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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rain. In some areas annual precipitation increases a full inch for every 50 feet of rise in the Coast Range. Mountainous areas thus generate far greater runoff than lowlands. The leeward (downwind) sides of the ranges experience a rain-shadow effect; because the air warms when descending, it retains its water vapor more effectively and yields less precipitation. This results in low stream volumes on the east side of the Coast, Peninsular, Cascade, and Sierra Nevada ranges. The higher the mountains, the greater the elevation (orographic) effect on precipitation (up to the point where the moisture within the air mass is largely spent). Rising to 7,000–14,000 feet, the Sierra Nevada is one of the continent’s premier moisture-raking topographies with snowfields reaching consolidated depths of 12 feet by spring. Even once the weather warms, this snow takes a long time to melt, and so the snow feeds the rivers through midsummer or longer. Likewise, high summits of the Klamath Mountains, Mount Shasta, and Lassen Peak accumulate tremendous depths of snow that melt slowly and nourish local rivers directly or through groundwater. Mountains of the Central and South coasts get deluged with occasional winter storms, but most of this is rain, so the water runs off the steep, rocky, sparsely forested slopes quickly, leaving the streams dry for most of the year. The tallest mountains of the Central and South coasts are high enough to accumulate at least some snow, and these peaks are the sources of most of the region’s perennial streams. Light precipitation in the south due to the dominance of the Pacific High combined with rain shadows results in extremely arid conditions inland. The Mojave Desert receives about 5 inches of rain a year and has

Snow accounts for most of the river runoff in the Sierra Nevada. A late-season storm covers the shores of the North Fork Stanislaus above Spicer bridge. 14

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no perennial rivers except for one short section of the Amargosa and a few palm oasis streams east of the San Jacinto Mountains. Penetrating this arid landscape, the Colorado River brings its voluminous flow the entire distance from the Rocky Mountains, 1,400 miles away. North of the Mojave, the Great Basin Desert likewise gets scant water other than the runout of the eastern Sierra streams. The massive snow accumulations and colder temperatures of the ice ages created glaciers across much of the upper Sierra Nevada and in the highest mountains of the north. Inching their way downward in slow but plastic movement, the glaciers scraped and gouged their way to mid-elevation valleys such as Yosemite and Cedar Grove, creating the spectacular scenery and river courses we know today. U-shaped canyons signify former glaciation, while V-shaped canyons indicate erosion entirely by water. The glaciers carried rock that had fallen onto the ice from mountainsides above and ridden the slow-moving ice, as if on a conveyor belt, to the terminus where the ice stopped advancing and the rock settled as terminal moraines. These barricaded the streams behind them, and remnants of moraines stand today as significant features that dam high mountain lakes, create rapids with boulders they’ve pushed into place, and contribute gravel that blankets floodplains far below. During the ice ages, glacial melt in landlocked basins east of the Sierra formed the ancient Lake Lahontan, larger than New Jersey and covering much of northeastern Nevada. The terminal lakes of Pyramid and Walker are now supplied by the Truckee and Walker rivers, respectively, but represent just the lowest lying remnants of that vastly larger ice age lake. Lahontan Cutthroat Trout evolved as a distinct species found only in the rivers of the giant glacial meltwater basin; vestigial populations of these endangered fish survive in a few streams even though the lake is long gone. With runoff that persists all summer, shrinking glaciers still contribute flows to the Walker, Owens, Sacramento, Shasta, and Trinity basins, often by way of groundwater discharges. Because of global warming, the days of California’s glaciers are numbered, except perhaps on Mount Shasta, which for the time being is high enough and sufficiently far north to receive large amounts of snow instead of rain. Dramatic year-to-year variations in the weather have been a fact of life throughout California’s history, but the climate is now changing with warmer temperatures worldwide, and the ramifications for rivers are extreme. Climatologists predict that more precipitation will come as rain and less as snow, which will result in more winter floods, lower summer runoff, and a sharp reduction of the snowpack that now stores water so effectively. The Sierra snowpack may exceed the content of the region’s reservoirs, but the total snowpack will probably be reduced by 50 to 80 percent within this century. Because of climate change, water supplies for cities and farms will be reduced and natural ecosystems will be heavily stressed (see “The Problems, Protection, and Restoration of California Rivers”). N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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Hydrology The timing, volume, and other qualities of rivers’ flows define the character of waterways and are critical to all the life within them. In northern California, rivers are principally fed by rainfall in winter, yielding big flows that can occur October through April; storms cause floods especially from November to February. Salmon and Steelhead wait at the mouths of streams, and when the first high water comes, they enter the rivers on their spawning runs. This is when they can be seen or caught while finning their way up riffles or waiting in clear pools for spawning opportunities. The high water likewise creates superb whitewater for kayakers, rafters, and canoeists. The smaller streams of the Central and South coasts likewise swell when nourished by winter rains, and some channels open up to remnant runs of Steelhead. While enormous flows flush off the northern mountains during winter rains, the extended river flows in California come from snowpack. This takes time to melt, and so the snow-fed rivers generally rise more slowly than the rain-fed rivers and subside more slowly. They peak from April to June, months after the precipitation occurs. Seeing the high waters of the north usually requires going out in the rain, but experiencing the flush of runoff in the Sierra is done in summer sunshine. The higher elevations of the northern ranges, the tallest peaks in the south, and the Sierra Nevada in its entire length accumulate vast amounts of snow. Fed principally by snowmelt, Sierra streams from both the east and west sides of the range contribute 52 percent of all the runoff in California, together topping even the volume of the rainy North Coast. In the northern Sierra, the Feather carries twice the volume of the nextlargest Sierra river, the American, which is the next basin southward. In the southern Sierra, the storms drop less snow but the elevation is higher, so the snow lasts a long time and continues to deliver water even in late summer. Sierra meltwater typically peaks in late May or early June, though it’s coming progressively earlier. Extended summer flows are found in rivers with the highest basins and in streams draining north faces of mountains. They provide critical cold runoff to rivers that would otherwise warm up in summer. These waters will be increasingly important to freshwater ecosystems in the warming climate of the future. Saturated soils continue to discharge water and maintain sizable flows for weeks or months after the rains and snowmelt stop, though this spongelike effect has been reduced by watershed disturbance. Logging, farming, grazing, and land development all eliminate or alter the porous and organic surface layers of soil. Even worse, roadcuts intercept subsurface water moving through the soil and sluice it away in concentrated form and in ditches that cause erosion. Some water sinks deeper beneath the soil to become groundwater, which slowly seeps through underground cavities, gravel deposits, and 16

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water-permeable formations such as sandstone, limestone, and basalt. Except for deep groundwater and low-elevation aquifers, these flows reemerge as springs, which feed streams longer than does surface runoff. In the Central Valley, deep deposits of gravel and soil hold enormous quantities of groundwater that accumulate when the rivers spill over their banks. However, flood-control dams, levees, channels, and diversions have reduced groundwater recharge, and with excessive pumping for irrigation, underground reserves stored up over the millennia are rapidly receding. The seasonal variation of flows is a crucial part of a river’s natural cycle. High water dislodges silt, sand, and gravel from channels and banks and washes it downstream. The river then deposits this bed load on the insides of bends where the current is slower, and it erodes yet more material on the outsides of bends, constantly renewing the shape and condition of the shores. The biological health of floodplains and riparian forests depends on this cyclical deposition, erosion, and periodic flooding; the riparian zone is called a “disturbance ecosystem”; its health and functioning depend on high-water disturbance. High flows affect rivers in many ways, including the scouring out of pools where fast water picks up the bed load and flushes it downstream. Alternately, they deposit the heaviest parts of their cargo—large cobbles— at riffle and rapid sites where the incoming rocks further congest the runoff and create whitewater. The pools keep water cold in summer and

Floods like this one on the Smith River are important to the health of streams and their communities of life; they shape the riverbed, recharge underground aquifers, and nourish riparian habitat. N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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provide shelter for fish. The riffles aerate the water and increase its oxygen supply while shallow rocks provide anchoring structures for invertebrates at the base of the food chain. The pool-and-riffle sequence is essential to a healthy river. Where floods are eliminated, pools tend to fill and riffles to subside, evening out the gradient and leading to a constant and lessproductive glide of current. This can be seen in the Central Valley rivers below flood-control dams. High water also plays a critical role in nourishing riparian forests and wetlands beyond the riverbanks—habitat once miles in width along many of the streams but now reduced to narrow strips or eliminated. The long-standing flood-based maintenance of stream channels has been upset by watershed disturbances—logging, roads, grazing, and development—that cause runoff to peak higher, erode deeply, and trigger landslides. For example, the exceptional floods of 1955 and 1964 in northern California came in the wake of widespread logging clear-cuts, and the silt and gravel that washed down as a massive surplus have yet to flush through the system and won’t for many years. Where rivers were once deeper, colder, and more constant, we now see wide and shallow channels, warm water, and intermittent runoff. This phenomenon can easily be seen at massive gravel bars where the South Fork Eel meets the main stem along Hwy. 101 in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The nuances of streamflow shape and govern not only the river channel but also the shorelines, floodplain, and entire riparian zone, including the plant life growing in and near the water.

Vast gravel bars along the Eel River indicate an aggrading, or rising, riverbed due to erosion of geologically unstable slopes, which is worsened by logging. 18

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Plant Life Riverfronts, floodplains, and related low-lying areas nourish riparian habitat. In a natural river system, trees and shrubs shade the streams and keep them cool, protect banks from erosion, and provide fish with cover, feeding, and spawning habitat during high water. Riverfront vegetation delivers nutrients to the water in the form of leaves, detritus, and insects that drop from overhanging branches. Groundwater naturally stored here nourishes plant life and later seeps slowly back into the stream. In arid places, streamside habitat is even more vital as a refuge for wildlife, because riparian forests are the only forests. In all regions, the health of riparian plant life is a key indicator of the health of the streams themselves. Black or Fremont cottonwoods thrive along many rivers. Other important trees are black and red willows, box elders, California sycamores, alders, black walnuts, and valley oaks, which can tap groundwater supplies even far from streambanks. Small trees include a variety of willows—the most common family of trees along rivers—and red osier dogwoods. Dense growths of shrubs and vines on floodplains include grapes, poison oak, elderberries, and blackberries—together providing a rich mix for wildlife. On many shores, cottonwoods are keystone species; other plants and animals depend on them. The largest tree of the riparian forest, they cast the most shade and produce the greatest quantities of nutrient-bearing leaves. They provide food for beavers, deer, Elk, and other species. Their

Riparian forests are needed by most bird and many other wildlife species. These white alders guard the shores of Cottaneva Creek north of Westport. N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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crowns make ideal nesting habitat for songbirds, and plentiful dead snags or limbs provide nest sites for Ospreys, eagles, and herons. Cavities in the trees make nest sites for woodpeckers, Wood Ducks, mergansers, and Raccoons. Cottonwoods might be considered the ultimate riparian tree, because they require floods to reproduce; the seeds ripen just after the high water of springtime and generally need a freshly scoured floodplain or new deposit of sand or silt to germinate. An entire new “class” of young trees will arise in the wake of a specific flood. When floods are controlled, cottonwood forests die out. Riparian corridors in the rainy north tend to be heavily forested except for scoured gravel bars that are part of the active channel. Black cottonwoods, white alders, and willows dominate, along with other trees that also excel beyond the floodplains—bigleaf maples, western red cedars, redwoods, and Douglas-firs. Sierra Nevada riparian zones are often smaller, but they and associated wet meadows feature cottonwoods, willows, alders, and aspens. In the Central Valley, flood zones once lush and miles wide are now restricted to narrow corridors often riprapped with rock and construction debris. But even there, thin belts are shaded by Fremont cottonwoods, box elders, willows, alders, walnuts, and oaks. In arid regions, Fremont cottonwoods and willows—even single trees— provide important ecosystem functions where flows are not depleted by diversions. In the extremely arid deserts of the southeast, California fan palms are a highlight, growing only along streams and at springs.

Fish Fish are the most direct indicator of all the other factors determining a river’s character, and they are a key indicator of river health (see river profiles for river-by-river highlights of fish and fishing opportunities). California has 123 species of native fishes, counting subspecies and distinct populations, and 69 without counting the subgroups. Another 50 species are nonnative aliens—introduced from other parts of the country or globe. Largely because of native fish diversity, California is the only state west of the Mississippi where the overall “freshwater biological distinctiveness” is considered “globally outstanding,” according to Freshwater Ecoregions of North America (Abell et al.). However, it’s also one of two regions where the health of native fish populations is considered “critical,” meaning threatened because of dams, diversions, habitat loss, and alien species. The fish depend on a whole chain of food supply, and at the bottom of this are algae. Unlike in lakes, where free-floating algae are the norm, in rivers the constant movement of water means that most visible algae are usually filamentous and cling to the bottom with a holdfast. These are the waving microforests of “seaweed” seen in many rivers, especially at low flows in summer. Also essential to the rivers’ algal food chains, 20

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diatom and desmid species form slimy mats over rocks—slippery but nutrient-rich. Up the trophic chain, aquatic insect larvae that consume algae include stoneflies, mayflies, caddisflies, and dragonflies. These and other invertebrates are important food for predatory fish such as trout. The entire continuum of life along the food chain is essential to the fish community. California’s native fish assemblages are distinctive, and University of California fish biologist Peter Moyle has noted a number of general characteristics about them: large body size, high fecundity, low numbers of species in any given reach of river (one to seven is typical), prevalence of anadromous fishes (discussed later) in streams that reach the sea, spring spawning schedules, and ability to survive in extreme environmental conditions of one kind or another. The native fish have evolved in their home basins for millennia and are uniquely suited to natural conditions. Many exist here and nowhere else; these endemics account for 63 percent of the native species, which is a very high rate nationwide. They include such magnificent creatures as the Little Kern Golden Trout in brilliant red, orange, and gold, and the Lahontan Cutthroat that are spectacularly colored and spotted. Other natives have broad ranges of habitat; the 4-inch-long Speckled Dace, for example, is the only fish native to all major rivers from Canada to Mexico. Four distinct runs of Chinook Salmon exist in the Sacramento—more than in any other river system. Many of the alien species pose fatal problems to native fish by preying on them, consuming the natives’ food, preempting habitat, and introducing exotic diseases. Alien species thrive in the artificial environments created by dams, diversions, warm water, and other alien plants and animals, all of which are now widespread. While recognizing the appeal that some of the nonnative fish have to anglers, this field guide gives emphasis to native fish and the need for their protection. Apart from the native/nonnative distinction, California fishes occur in a spectrum of cold-water to warm-water habitat groups, and also as either anadromous or resident species. Cold-water fishes include trout, Steelhead, Chinook and Coho salmon, Mountain Whitefish (one of the most widely distributed fishes in North America), suckers, and sculpins. Warm-water fishes include the introduced and ubiquitous bass, perch, and catfish, a host of minnows, Sacramento Blackfish, and Sacramento Perch—a native with exceptional survival abilities even when water temperatures reach the high 80s F. Anadromous fishes live most of their lives in the ocean but migrate up rivers to spawn, while resident fishes remain in the rivers. Anadromous species include several kinds of salmon, Steelhead, two species of sturgeon, several kinds of lamprey, Cutthroat Trout, Longfin Smelt, Eulachon, Threespine Stickleback, and nonnative Striped Bass and shad. Salmon and Steelhead are popular game fishes, salmon are a traditional mainstay of the commercial fishery at sea, and both species indicate river health because of their need for long reaches of clean and undammed water. N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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American Shad, introduced from the East Coast in 1871, move up the rivers in springtime, and have become popular with anglers on the lower American, Feather, and Yuba rivers. Anadromous and especially salmon species have been central to river ecosystems. Dozens of other species have depended directly on them as a food source. More fundamentally, salmon bring much-needed nutrients back from the sea—where they are plentiful—to the rivers, where they are more limited. Entire ecosystems have been served by the substantial nutrients that are left along the rivers as fish bodies when, after spawning, the fish die. All these benefits are nominal today because of extreme reductions of salmon populations. For proper functioning of the entire ecosystem, restoration of salmon numbers is needed. Principal native game fishes include Rainbow and Cutthroat trout and their many forms, Sacramento Perch, Green and White sturgeons, and Chinook Salmon. Nonnative game fishes include shad, Largemouth and Smallmouth bass, Bluegills, Striped Bass, brown trout, brook trout, and catfish. The state Fish and Game Commission has designated 30 rivers and creeks (plus some lakes) as Wild Trout Waters for special management to benefit wild or nonstocked trout (see Appendices). The designation sometimes means special angling regulations, such as catch-and-release, and usually means no stocking of hatchery fish, which can harm the natives by eating their food, displacing them from their habitat, introducing hatchery-based diseases that are common in the feedlot environment of the hatcheries, and compromising the native gene pool through interbreeding. Each region of California has its ichthyologic specialties. Northern California is renowned for salmon and Steelhead, though these fish have been decimated by habitat destruction from logging, watershed disturbance from roads, and dams and diversions, plus overharvesting and the

Rainbow Trout are California’s most popular cold-water game fish; this catch is being returned to the Kings River below Garnet Dike. 22

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harmful effects of hatcheries on native fish. The best native runs survive in the Smith and a few other northern California streams. Determined efforts are being made to improve habitat in many waters, including the Mattole (one of few major streams without hatchery influence), through reinstatement of flows to rivers such as the Trinity and San Joaquin, and through dam removal on the Klamath and some Sacramento tributaries. Many of the northern rivers become too low and warm in summer for strong resident trout populations. Chinook Salmon smolts cope with this problem by moving out to the ocean before stream levels subside and temperatures rise. Streams of northeastern California feature cold, spring-fed waters that support native Rainbow Trout. Trout fishing is popular there and in the Sierra Nevada, though the granite bedrock of the Sierra does not yield highly productive water for fish. Isolated by rapids and waterfalls, virtually all the Sierra lakes above 6,000 feet had no fish until trout were planted after the Gold Rush, and most of the upper reaches of Sierra rivers were likewise without fish of any kind. Exceptional here, Golden Trout evolved in the upper Kern. Today, artificially stocked nonnative trout provide a sport fishery in hundreds of mountain lakes and streams but also pose extinction threats to native fauna such as the Mountain Yellowlegged Frog, Yosemite Toad, and other amphibians. The eastern side of the Sierra has excellent trout fishing for introduced Rainbows in streams such as the Owens River and Bishop Creek, but the region’s impressive native Lahontan Cutthroat Trout have been eradicated from nearly all their historic range by irrigation diversions, dams, and nonnative trout. Small streams of the Sierra foothills often become warm and intermittent in summer, leaving isolated pools where the California Roach and a few other native species survive when not eradicated by introduced Green Sunfish. Native Sacramento Suckers, Hardhead, and pikeminnows spawn in foothill streams during high flows in winter and spring. Rivers of the Central Valley were once home to an extraordinary assemblage of deep-bodied fishes including Sacramento Perch and Tule Perch, along with pikeminnows, suckers, and anadromous fishes on their spawning runs. But wetland drainage, dams, and diversions have severely reduced most of the native populations. Today’s Central Valley fish are mostly introduced bass, catfish, and other aliens. Striped Bass migrate up from San Francisco Bay and are a popular fishery in lower reaches of rivers. Delta Smelt and other native fishes of the delta are nearing extinction because of massive water diversions, exotic species, and pollution. Central and South coast streams once supported plentiful Steelhead, and remnant populations of them and resident Rainbows remain. But rivers here have been so affected by dams, withdrawals, urbanization, and channelization that native fish have mostly been reduced to remnants or are dominated by alien species and hatchery-raised trout. Rivers of the desert region once supported rare fishes that had evolved in ice-age basins when water was plentiful. A few species including pupfish survive in isolated springs and creeks. The lower Colorado has been completely N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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transformed by dams and diversions; the Bonytail Chub, Colorado Pikeminnow, and other natives are now extinct or rare in California. Each region supports species that are endemic to its own set of rivers— found there and nowhere else—yet many of these have low numbers and some are gone. Moyle’s Inland Fishes of California lists seven species that are extinct in California or globally, 13 threatened or endangered, and 19 Species of Special Concern (likely to become threatened). The magnificent, 3-foot-long bull trout is now extinct in the state (a few survive in Oregon tributaries to the Klamath). Pink Salmon are virtually gone from coastal streams. California’s Chum Salmon survive mostly in remnant runs in the Smith, Klamath, and Trinity. The Thicktail Chub was last seen in 1957. The High Rock Spring Tui Chub went extinct in 1989 after the California Department of Fish and Game issued a permit for a fish farm that introduced Mozambique tilapia near the sole desert spring where the little tui had managed to survive. Threatened or endangered fishes include the Delta and Longfin smelts, Little Kern River Golden Trout, Lahontan and Paiute Cutthroat trout, and Central Valley winter- and spring-run Chinook Salmon. Sacramento Perch, which once amply fed the Indians of the Central Valley, are now extinct in their namesake, the Sacramento River, as a result of the elimination of overflow wetlands and of competing alien fish (the native perch have been introduced elsewhere). Wild Coho Salmon survive in less than 1 percent of their historic numbers and are extinct in large portions of their historic range. The following list includes some of the most important streams for native fish diversity. In 2009 researcher Moyle and his students found that 83 percent of the native fishes statewide are either extinct, endangered, or in decline. In an even more alarming study conducted for California trout, Moyle and others found that two-thirds of our salmonid species, including salmon, Steelhead, and trout, will be driven to extinction within 100 years or sooner unless we “collectively and immediately embark on a series of sweeping, innovative and long-term solutions.” The implications go beyond sport fishing; 80 percent of the commercial fishing fleet has been forced out of business because of declining fish stocks according to the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations. Better returns of salmon on the North Coast from 2009 to 2010 offered little optimism that the underlying causes of decline have changed. The problems, which Moyle lists in Inland Fishes of California in order of severity, are water diversions, habitat loss, pollution, alien species, hatcheries, and overfishing. Short of catching fish, it’s difficult to see them, which is one reason this book gives more attention to game species, but fish-watching is one of the great rewards of spending time on rivers. From the front of a canoe or raft, trout and suckers can often be seen while the boat moves quietly downriver. Sculpins can sometimes be seen in shallow waters. A snorkel and mask are excellent additions to river gear. If you use them in quiet water between rapids, you can often see fish below. After the first good rains of late fall or winter, salmon enter the rivers of northern California and can be seen swimming upstream or spawning over beds of gravel in 24

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SELECTED STREAMS OF GREAT IMPORTANCE (native fish diversity and/or significance)

Amargosa River: endangered pupfish and dace (mostly in springs) Clavey River: native Sierra fishes Deer Creek: salmon and native fish diversity Eel River, South Fork: Coho Salmon (once rich, possibly restorable) Fall River: trout, springwater, endangered species, endemic native sculpins Independence Creek and Lake: Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, native fishes Kern River, South Fork, and Little Kern River: Golden Trout Kings River: best big-river Rainbow Trout stream, native fishes Klamath River: salmon, Steelhead, sturgeon; greatest anadromous diversity Lagunitas Creek: Coho Salmon Lassen Creek, Goose Lake: Redband Trout, native fishes Mill Creek: salmon and native fish diversity Putah Creek: restored native fish assemblage Sacramento River: greatest fish diversity, sturgeon, salmon, native warm-water fishes Salmon River: salmon, Steelhead, native fishes, best of Klamath tributaries Smith River: best salmon and Steelhead river Truckee River: native eastern Sierra fishes Walker River: native eastern Sierra fishes

some places: the lower Yuba, Smith, Sacramento above Redding, and Lagunitas Creek. The health of fish populations governs the lives of other wildlife that depend on them, and the conditions of the rivers that determine the status of fish also affect an entire suite of birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates, and insects.

Wildlife Riparian areas are the most important habitat for wildlife; statewide, 225 species of birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians depend on this zone for food, water, and shelter according to the Atlas of the Biodiversity of California (California Resources Agency and Department of Fish and N AT U R A L H I S T O R Y

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Game). Seeing these birds and other animals is a highlight to many people’s experience along the water. Most common among waterfowl is the merganser, a diving duck that subsists mostly on fish. Dabbling or plant-eating ducks include Mallards, Wood Ducks, and Common Goldeneyes. Wading birds that spear minnows, crayfish, and other small animals include the Great Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, and Green Heron. Kingfishers perch on limbs above the water and dive for small fish. Black Phoebes perch on shrubs along Central Valley and northern shorelines and pluck insects out of the air. Swallows and flycatchers dart above the water to catch insects. Ospreys soar high and dive for fish. Spotted Sandpipers bob along wet shorelines and peck for insects in the sand. These species account for many of the birds likely to be seen along California rivers, but dozens of others frequent streamfronts, including some of the rarest birds; in deciduous riparian groves in the south, the imperiled Yellow-billed Cuckoo and Bell’s Vireo are occasionally sighted. The quintessential riverfront mammals are furbearers, capable of staying warm in cold water. Beavers are known for their prowess in building dams of sticks, grass, and mud; they raise the level of small streams, arrest damaging down-cutting of streambeds that comes with land disturbance, and create wetlands that benefit a host of creatures. Otters live on fish and crayfish. Once hunted and trapped to near extirpation, they’re now common even in urban Sacramento’s American River. Much smaller, mink can be seen scurrying along the water’s edge and slipping in when frightened. Terrestrial mammals, such as deer, Elk, squirrels, foxes, bears, and Coyotes all come to the water to drink, or for cover in the riparian zone, which is often the only natural habitat remaining. These and others also use the riverfronts as corridors that link otherwise fragmented natural landscapes. Common amphibians include the newt—a three-inch orange salamander. Yellow-legged frogs in uplands and red-legged frogs in slower waters are natives that have been severely reduced by alien species and habitat loss. Arroyo Toads were once one of the most common amphibians along South Coast streams but are now endangered. Western Pond Turtles can be seen sunning themselves on logs in Central Valley rivers. Common Garter Snakes often swim to cross streams and have been drawn to my canoe, probably sensing that it was a land mass. Other invertebrates including insects, crustaceans, and mollusks are vital in the food chains of fish and larger wildlife. Illustrations in “Fifty Common Species of River Plants and Animals” identify plants and animals discussed here. Unfortunately, many of these remarkable life forms and ecosystems are imperiled because of the overuse and abuse of our rivers since the Gold Rush and even before. As “Problems, Protection, and Restoration of California Rivers” reveals, the threats continue to increase, though determined efforts to protect and restore our rivers have been started. 26

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T H E PROBL E MS, PROTE CTIO N , A N D R E S TO RAT I ON O F C A L I F OR NI A RI V ER S

California rivers make possible a diverse assemblage of fish, birds, and other wildlife. They deliver the water used in cities and towns, and provide for a large share of the nation’s food production. They nourish important fisheries in the ocean. They transport sand needed to replenish ocean beaches, and they offer recreation to millions of people, along with the opportunity for everyone to know a small part of the original California. But most of the streams have been severely diminished from what nature once provided. Regarding just one species of fish, the charismatic Chinook salmon, biologist Peter Moyle wrote in Inland Fishes of California, “Through the 21st century our society will be making decisions that will determine whether we have just a few ‘museum runs’ supported by hatcheries or whether we continue to have a diversity of Chinook salmon runs in the major rivers of the northern part of the state. We are in danger of turning what was once a major cultural resource into a curiosity known to only a few.” If rivers are to continue to support fish, wildlife, recreation, enjoyment of many kinds, and practical uses that are essential to our society, then the problems affecting them need to be addressed. This chapter presents an overview of the difficulties and of protection and restoration strategies, with attention to how threats can be identified in the field, and with notes about where both degradation and solutions can be seen on the ground. The problems of streams today are water pollution, dams that block the flow and inundate the rivers along with their valleys and canyons, shoreline and riverbed destruction through channelization along with levees and riprap, depleted flows caused by diversions for water supply and power, floodplain development causing loss of riparian habitat, alien species that displace the natives, climate change, and population growth, which is a fundamental source of many of the other problems.

Water Pollution Pollution can cause sudden and traumatic effects in rivers, such as the poisoning of 40 miles of the upper Sacramento when the spill of a toxic soil fumigant from a derailed train in 1991 killed all animal life in the P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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water and endangered the health of people along the shores at Dunsmuir and below. But according to state and federal data, the more hidden scourge of agricultural runoff is the leading cause of pollution today. Escaping the news, and escaping regulations aimed at the pipe discharges of cities and industries, farm runoff carries feedlot waste, pesticides, chemical fertilizers, and silt into rivers. The lower San Joaquin has abysmal water quality, and polluted irrigation return flows can be found in the Sacramento, Salinas, and other valleys. Recommended management practices include organic farming, reducing the use of pesticides, increasing water use efficiency, shunting surface water around feedlots instead of through them, establishing riparian buffers that allow silt to settle before reaching the water, fencing cattle from streams, and retiring farmlands that contribute the most salt, selenium, and other troublesome elements to the water. Towns and cities have built sewage treatment plants but some of these are overloaded, outdated, and unable to accommodate forecast demands. A new round of upgrading will be needed. Logging (especially clear-cutting) on steep slopes causes erosion and— along with the destruction of coastal estuaries where the Coho rear when young—is the greatest single cause of the Coho Salmon nearing extinction. The South Fork Trinity is one of many streams where heavy logging and resulting landslides destabilized gravel and destroyed spawning habitat. In contrast, conservation efforts in the Smith basin exemplify a strategy of forest management designed to bring back the fishery; siltbleeding roads have been removed along tributary Mill Creek. Road removal and replanting are also improving Redwood Creek in Redwood National Park. Mining and the residual legacy of mercury from gold processing are a problem in the Sierra foothills where the gold was mined, and also in the Coast Range where the mercury was extracted in watersheds such as the Guadalupe near San Jose. Statewide nearly 50,000 abandoned mines leak toxins such as mercury, lead, and arsenic. Even though Sierra streams appear clean, the Sierra Nevada Alliance reported that 23 of 24 watersheds were impaired for water quality. Many problems come from abandoned mines like those seen from Rte. 89 along Monitor Creek above the East Fork Carson. State and federal programs have strived to reclaim past mining sites, and the Sierra Fund has launched an effort to address the dark legacy of pollution from past mining. The spoil piles of dredged gravel and the transformation of riverbeds and floodplains during the gold mining era can still be seen along the Yuba River above Marysville and the Merced above Snelling. The ravages of hydraulic mining remain evident at Malakoff Diggins State Park near Nevada City. Restored sites from gold dredging can be seen at the Turlock Lake State Recreation Area along the Tuolumne and Henderson Park below Merced Falls. Proposals to reclaim the massive spoil piles of the lower Yuba offer the promise of cleaner water, a productive riparian zone, and better salmon habitat. Suction dredge mining has caused extensive 28

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Suction-dredge gold miners, shown here at Iowa Hill on the North Fork American, have caused siltation of rivers and destabilized fish-spawning gravel beds. California enacted a temporary ban on dredge mining in 2009.

damage to California rivers, and after extensive debate, that activity has been banned, at least temporarily. Elevated water temperature due to logging, farming, sprawl, reservoirs, depleted flows, and mining is another form of pollution harming native fish; temperatures over 70 degrees F are lethal to many anadromous species. At the Klamath, water impounded behind hydroelectric dams warms in the sun and becomes a hothouse for toxic algae. Green mats of aquatic algae cover the river’s edges for miles below Iron Gate Dam. Coastal streams suffer elevated temperatures from past logging, and new vineyard development exacerbates this threat on streams such as the Navarro. Reformed management under the State Forest Practices Act, including the requirement for buffers of uncut or lightly cut forest along the water, are slowly reclaiming some of the conditions of the past along streams such as Big and Noyo rivers with the likelihood of lower water temperatures and improved habitat. Though pollution by toxic chemicals is often difficult to detect without testing, other problems are apparent from a simple view or a float down a river. Sewage, feedlot, and organic wastes can often be smelled or seen in plumes of gray, milky, or brown water coming from pipes or ditches. While many of these have been eliminated, troublesome discharges can still be seen along some Central Valley rivers. Silt plumes from eroding areas can be seen along the edges of streams. The most evident source of streambank erosion and muddy water is virtually ignored: in many areas bank erosion by motorboats is evident in silt plumes along the water’s edge every time a motorboat’s wake breaks onto the shore, and the problem is multiplied every time another motorboat passes. Introduced P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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Toxic algae and overly warmed water in the Klamath River result from irrigation withdrawals, polluted return flows, and upstream dams. Dam removal and reduced diversions in low-flow years will help remedy these problems.

aquatic plants and alien fishes such as carp often indicate warmed and nutrient-laden waters. Citizen monitoring of water quality is important for the cleanup of California’s waters. One of the larger programs is run by the South Yuba River Citizens League, which trains volunteers. For citizen action, Killam’s The Clean Water Act Owner’s Manual is a superb handbook available from River Network.

Dams Pollution degrades our rivers, but dams cause their complete loss. California’s 1,400 dams over 25 feet high have provided water, power, flood control, and flatwater recreation opportunities, but in the process converted thousands of river miles into reservoirs and eliminated the moving water, gravel beds, and floodplains. Migration of fish is halted or restricted; 80 percent of the Central Valley rivers’ salmon habitat has been blocked by dams. Water below the dams is often depleted, the annual cycles of high and low flows altered, and the temperatures changed in ways that native fish cannot tolerate. Alien species thrive under the new regimes and displace, out-compete, or directly kill native animals and plants. Dams capture silt and gravel being washed downstream by rivers, and this withholds deposits from floodplains on the insides of bends and even affects beaches on the seacoast, which erode faster when they lack the sand 30

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Hetch Hetchy Valley was the only twin to Yosemite, but it was flooded to provide water for San Francisco.

historically delivered by flooding rivers. Principally because of the 500 dams on coastal rivers, but also gravel mining, the sand now making it down the rivers to replenish ocean beaches has been reduced by 25 percent statewide according to Griggs’s Introduction to California’s Beaches and Coast. As a result of the dams and other problems, acute beach erosion is occurring along the South Coast, where 45 percent of the ocean-bound sand is trapped behind dams. Because dams were already built on the most economical sites, and with a growing awareness of the problems of further development, the era of big-dam construction in the United States ended in the 1980s. Large new dams are seldom discussed today, though proposals are likely to arise again as water and power demands increase with a growing population. Already one is proposed at Temperance Flat on the San Joaquin above Millerton Reservoir. Also, water suppliers propose to raise the level of Pardee Dam on the Mokelumne, which would flood an important recreational stream, and to raise Exchequer Dam on the Merced, which would flood a section of now-protected National Wild and Scenic River.

Channelization, Levees, and Riprap Channelization, stream straightening, building levees too close to the rivers, and lining the banks with rock or construction debris (riprap) have all been done with the intent to protect adjacent land from floods and P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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Construction of Auburn Dam was started at this site but halted because of earthquake hazards, rising costs that greatly exceeded benefits, and environmental problems.

bank erosion, but these activities destroy the bottom life of the streams, eliminate natural meander and pool-and-riffle sequences, warm the water by removing trees and vegetation, and halt the interaction between the river and its floodplain along with groundwater reserves. What was once a biologic bonanza of streamfront forest becomes an excavated embankment of rock or concrete. Fish, including juvenile salmon and Sacramento Splittail, need the periodically flooded vegetation of natural floodplains for cover, feeding, or spawning. Affecting thousands of stream miles, rock or construction debris have been dumped on riverbanks; this can be seen at one scale or another along virtually any mile of river in the Central Valley. Levees constrain urban and agricultural rivers; the Sacramento and lower Feather are examples. Even more graphic, channelization, with the complete loss of natural habitat, is seen at rivers of the Los Angeles Basin, lower Alameda Creek, and other urban areas. Commendable efforts are under way to widen the flood channel between levees in a few sections of the Sacramento Basin, however, this task is challenging because of development that has been built up to the edge of today’s levees.

Diversions Nearly all California rivers flowing to farm or urban areas suffer from the diversion of their waters into canals and pipelines, and many streams even 32

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The San Gabriel River and other streams in the Los Angeles Basin have been relegated to cement channels in an effort to flush flood flows away.

in high mountains are diverted for hydropower. Vibrant rivers have been transformed into depleted channels, anemically low if not totally dried up. The diminished flows fail to provide enough water for fish and wildlife, they cause temperatures to increase, alter the ability of streams to maintain their channels through periodic flooding, favor alien species such as catfish and carp that tolerate warm polluted water, concentrate pollutants, eliminate recreation opportunities, and make less water available for other uses downstream. In addition, canal headgates, unscreened ditches, and pumps can entrain fish, trap them, and funnel them into turbines and irrigated fields. Even many flows that might appear to be normal have been depleted or altered by diversions. Natural rivers run high in the winter, spring, and early summer, but the combined effects of dams and diversions often result in streams that are either completely shunted off into canals or that run low in the spring and high in the summer. These summer releases might benefit water supply and recreation, but the inverted schedule plays havoc on fish and streamlife that evolved under natural conditions through the millennia. Wild salmon and Steelhead, for example, typically need high flows in the fall, winter, and spring, and not in the summer when dams now release water to supply irrigation canals downstream. Diagnostic signs of severe diversions are dry or mud-caked riverbeds where perennial streams used to flow. A thick growth of willows and other plants within the stream channel can also indicate that the flushing effect of natural floods no longer occurs. Invasions of alien plants, such as tamarisk in southern California and French broom in the north, often indicate P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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Diversions and water held in upstream dams have reduced the Salinas River to a trickle through Paso Robles.

the lack of natural surges. High temperatures and exotic fish, such as bluegills, sunfish, Red Shiners, and bass, often indicate flows that are lower—and therefore warmer—than in natural regimes. The San Joaquin and Salinas have been completely desiccated in some reaches for irrigation. Dry streambeds below diversions can also be seen at the lower Kings, Kaweah, Tule, Kern, and Owens. Groundwater is likewise overdrawn in farm areas, causing water tables to decline. Because of overpumping, some parts of the San Joaquin Valley have subsided 70 vertical feet, and the ability to store groundwater has been permanently lost. Groundwater overpumping also depletes rivers that depend on underground supplies during low-runoff seasons. Among others, the Cosumnes and Carmel rivers are affected in this way. In a class by itself, the Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta is the ultimate example of the problems and complexities involved with the diversion of water. Upstream irrigation has reduced inflows to this estuary, and then up to 60 percent of the water is pumped southward to serve agriculture and urban areas. A crisis of massive economic and ecologic proportions has resulted. The delta diversions have contributed to the collapse of California’s Chinook Salmon fishery and its related commercial fishing industry. Already depressed by a century of abuse, and plagued by a large suite of problems, the fall-run Chinook in the Sacramento numbered 750,000 in 1986 but plummeted to 5,000 in 2010. Fishing groups maintain that a better managed delta would help to reinstate fish runs and create 94,000 jobs; the Environmental Defense Fund reported that the loss of salmon costs the California economy $250 million per year. But salmon 34

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and other species continue to be drawn in the wrong directions by artificial currents created by the pumps, hampered by temperature and pollution excess, preyed upon by alien species that thrive in the new regime, and entrained in the pumps—young larval fish (alevins) have little chance of being filtered out even where screens are installed. Further complicating matters, islands of the delta are surrounded by levees, and the farmland within them has been subsiding. Peat soils here oxidize and blow away when cultivated, leaving the fields as much as 30 feet below sea level, and dropping, and putting the farmland at great risk. The inevitable outcome of ruptured levees during floods or earthquakes is aggravated by the ongoing rise in sea level and the heightened chance of record floods coming with global warming. When the unstable levees rupture, brackish water may intrude deep into the delta and mix with freshwater that’s relied upon for municipal and farm supplies the whole way to southern California. Even if withdrawals from the delta are reduced, the flood hazards remain, and a better means of water conveyance around the delta may be needed, according to the Public Policy Institute of California in 2008. While political and legal battles for the delta raged, the diversions increased until courts ordered protection of endangered species, causing diversions to level off, but at a high level. Diversion problems can be solved at least partly through better efficiency of irrigation, according to a Pacific Institute study of 2008 and other sources. Large amounts of water can also be saved by retiring hundreds of thousands of acres laced with selenium, boron, and other troublesome elements, plus the fallowing of additional expanses where salt leaches heavily into the water. Over a million acres of these drainageimpaired lands lie on the west side of the San Joaqun Valley, and the U.S. Geological Survey in a 2008 study considered the retirement of 300,000 acres there. Though agriculture uses 80 percent of the water withdrawals in California, and can save great amounts, new efficiencies can also be realized in cities and suburbs. In the past 40 years, Californians reduced per capita use by nearly half. Additional cuts are possible and recommended in the 2005 State Water Plan, which found that a significant 5 million acre-feet per year (roughly the total amount now diverted from the delta) can be generated through conservation and wastewater recycling. The Planning and Conservation League maintained that these savings can be realized at far less cost than new dams. Hydroelectric diversions result in daily flushes of high water when power is being produced, and low releases when the water is stored in reservoirs. Such dramatic daily variations are devastating to native life. Effects are sometimes evident by simply looking at the riverbeds; gravel bars and beaches cyclically swept clean by water even in the summer indicate the flush of hydropower releases, as do rapidly fluctuating flows— sometimes up or down a vertical foot in an hour. The de-watering effects of hydropower can be seen below Spaulding Dam (just off Interstate 80 on the South Yuba River), on the Bear River, and at other sites. The P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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flushing nature of hydroelectric releases can be seen every day in the highand-low sequence at Chili Bar on the South Fork American, which, after long negotiations, at least now provides for predictable recreational rafting.

Floodplain Development The water and channel are only part of a river. Floodplains and riparian habitat are the rest, and they’re no less important to the health of the entire system. With the current lull in dam development and new diversions, building on floodplains may now be the greatest new and increasing damage occurring to rivers in California. Many counties and communities have floodplain regulations, but most of them reflect only minimum standards intended to make subsidized federal flood insurance available. Though this program requires communities to zone the floodplain, loopholes including flood “proofing” of buildings are allowed, and structures may be built on floodplains if the first floor is elevated. Testament to its failure to minimize flood damage by steering development away from flood zones, the insurance program was in effect for 30 years when high water in 1997 destroyed or severely damaged 16,000 California homes, many of them relatively new. Because of floodplain development and other degradation of riverfronts, 80 to 90 percent of the state’s riparian habitat has been eliminated or badly damaged, according to the California State Lands Commission. New lowlying development can be seen on the floodplain of the American River north of Sacramento and other Central Valley streams including the Stanislaus, where expensive new houses are being built with the expectation of flood control from dams and levees. For zoning purposes, floodplain delineation is a technical matter based on hydrologic analysis. But an informed view can reveal much. The floodplains are the lowlands next to the water. The floodplain is within the riparian zone, which includes plant life that depends on the water of the stream or its related groundwater. Development on the riverfront and in zones subject to powerful floods poses the greatest safety and investment problems, but any building in riparian habitat degrades the natural river. To address these problems, effective floodplain zoning by local and county planning agencies is needed. Acquisition of land or easements by land trusts or governments is another strategy to reduce new development in flood-prone corridors.

Alien Species Alien or exotic species pose some of the greatest threats to native plants and animals in rivers and along their shores. Aliens eliminate natives 36

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Development on floodplains is vulnerable to high-water damage, destroys wildlife habitat, and removes riparian forests important to river health. Better floodplain zoning can reserve floodplains as open space and reduce costs of flood damage.

through competition, predation, disease, habitat changes, and hydridization. The majority of fish in many streams are aliens introduced deliberately as game fish or from ballast water or bait cans. Bluegill and Largemouth Bass, for example, are among the most abundant fishes in California and have come to dominate many freshwater systems. California and Florida have more alien fish species than any other states. While streams are overrun with Redeye Bass, catfish, carp, Green Sunfish, and a host of aquatic invaders, floodplains can become overgrown with Scotch and French brooms, English ivy, Russian olive, and tamarisk. New Zealand Mudsnails have appeared in some streams and can multiply to phenomenal densities that eliminate native snails and mussels. Depleted flows enable the aliens to thrive; thus, to limit damage, a reinstatement of periodic floods and natural flow cycles may be required. This has been key to restoring native fish to Putah Creek and the Trinity River. The poisoning of noxious plants and alien fauna is sometimes the only way to reinstate native species and ecologic balance. Anglers and boaters should inspect their boots and gear for hitchhiking snails, and clean their equipment thoroughly to avoid spreading exotics from one stream to another. Invasive plants include the thorny Armenian blackberry, gorse, star thistle, bull thistle, and Russian olive. Though unwanted weeds usually regrow by sprouts or seeds, pulling or cutting them can give native plants a competitive advantage. Hand-pulling of aliens has become a part of most of my river visits as I paddle downstream or simply go to the water. Though the effort might seem futile, helping to restore natural streamfronts by pulling alien weeds can be a surprisingly satisfying activity. P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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Climate Change The 16 warmest years on record have come since 1989, and 2010 was the warmest on record worldwide. This is just one of many indicators of global warming—the most troublesome of the climatic changes that are occurring because of increasing carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. The overwhelming consensus of climate experts, including those composing the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, is that the warming will increase with dire consequences to the earth and humankind. The state’s California Climate Change Center predicts that increases in atmospheric carbon dioxide, principally from burning fossil fuels and deforestation, will cause temperatures to rise 4.7 to 10.5 degrees F by 2100. This conservative estimate assumes that much will be done to reduce the problem. Yet little is being accomplished, and the amount of carbon dioxide continues to increase with no end in sight. The unfolding reality has already proven more severe than the worst-case scenarios of top scientists. The warming will cause hotter and drier summers, increased evaporation of moisture on the land, rising sea level, intensified storms, more frequent floods, elevated temperatures in freshwater, acidification of the oceans, and elimination of species that can’t tolerate the new conditions or migrate quickly to places already occupied by other species. These phenomena will affect rivers in egregious ways. The Scripps Institution projects that Sierra Nevada snowpack will be cut in half or less by 2090 even if corrective measures are taken, and scientists reported in August 2004 in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences that Sierra snowpack may be reduced by 90 percent. That means that the water now held in snowbanks for runoff in the late spring and summer will come earlier—or immediately—from rain rather than snow. The 2005 State Water Plan projected that April–July could see a 52 percent reduction in runoff and that farms could lose 25 percent of their supply. Researchers at Scripps in 2008 indicated a 50 percent chance that Lake Mead on the Colorado River will be dry by 2021 if climate change and consumption go uncurtailed. This has grave implications for southern California and all the rivers that supply it, including the Feather and Owens. Because of global warming, the California Climate Change Center reported in 2009 that sea level is likely to rise 2 to 4.6 feet by 2100. A 1-foot rise would increase floods in the delta from once in 100 years to once in 10, endangering the water supplies that are shipped to southern California. Statewide, the sea-level rise will threaten cities and degrade both estuaries and lower reaches of virtually all of California’s ocean-bound rivers. With more precipitation coming as rain rather than snow, floods may be more frequent, but overall, runoff is likely to decline, and already has in one-third of the world’s rivers, according to the National Center for Atmospheric Research. Already the effects of drought on agricultural and urban water supplies have been severe, and with global warming, the call for more dams will 38

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grow, even though many gains in storage will now be offset by evaporative losses in California’s already heavily dammed rivers. Species now stressed by warm water and low runoff, including salmon, Steelhead, and trout, will be pushed further toward extinction. Forest and chaparral fires could increase by 55 to 90 percent according to California’s Climate Change Center, and in the wake of those infernos we’ll see intensified erosion of watersheds, more sediment clogging rivers, and heated runoff from burned land. Because of rising temperatures, demand for electricity in California is predicted to increase 20 percent by 2100—without considering population growth, which could roughly quadruple in that interval if immigration is not reduced. Meanwhile, because of the loss of the snowpack, hydroelectric production might be curtailed by 30 percent. Thus, more power will be needed but less power will be available, and new hydrodam proposals may surface as society scrambles for ways not only to maintain the status quo in energy use but to reduce the portion coming from fossil fuels. To cut the rate of warming by reducing the principal causes of the problem—fossil fuel burning and deforestation—is only one of three great climate-change challenges ahead in regard to rivers. The second challenge is to address the inevitable by helping river ecosystems remain as resilient as possible. The same conservation measures that are needed today will become doubly urgent tomorrow. For example, reserving adequate flows for ecosystems will be more important because depleted streams will become even lower and warmer than they already are. Riparian habitat will become more necessary as a refuge for native life, and as a buffer that separates streams from warming fields and cities. The health of streams that deliver cold runoff from high elevations, the north side of mountain peaks, and cool groundwater springs will become more important. Larger areas of floodplains will have to be protected from development, because the floods are going to get worse. In short, everything river conservationists have been trying to do for the past half-century will have to be done more, better, and faster. The third great challenge is to address population growth.

Population Growth More people live in California than in the rest of the West combined, and the population in recent decades has grown faster than ever in history. At the rates of the 1990–2010 era, the state population would double in about 40 years. Even at a reduced rate in 2011, the state will still gain about 4 million people per decade, or four times the population of San Francisco (growth-rate declines such as the current one have been short-lived through the past century). Nearly all the growth is due to immigration, including the children of new immigrants, but Congress thus far has shown no inclination to reduce rates of growth. Even with efficiency P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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improvements and the “greening” of some types of development, additional people ultimately mean greater demands for water, food, electricity, and housing, and all those demands affect rivers. Through the past 40 years Californians have admirably cut their per capita use of water in half. Halving the rate again during the coming four decades will be challenging, but even if that happens, the savings will merely keep pace with the projected population growth, leaving the next generation in the same difficult position of needing to sacrifice the qualities and amenities of our rivers, our environment, and our communities just to keep pace with relentless growth. And without changes in the rate of growth, the population will be poised to double again. Furthermore, the easy conservation options are quickly being exhausted. Stabilizing population or at least reducing the rate of growth is the only long-term option that will avoid a fate of unending diminishment of our rivers and natural environment. While the policies and social changes necessary to reduce immigration (by far the largest component of growth) are far beyond the scope of this modest guidebook, I urge readers to pursue information and a dialogue about this difficult topic.

Protecting and Restoring California’s Rivers Two primary approaches address the problems of rivers: protection of values that remain, and restoration of at least some aspects of the natural ecosystem. Protection programs seek to save what remains of value and to stop the problems from getting worse. One of the chief means of protecting natural streams is Wild and Scenic River designation under national or state laws. National status is conferred by Congress, or by the Secretary of the Interior at the request of a governor. It bans new dams or other projects requiring federal funds or licensing, including private hydroelectric dams. On federal land, a designated river must be protected from damaging activities, including destructive logging and mining, within a quarter mile of the river. The program encourages but does not require local zoning of private property. The state Wild and Scenic program is similar but less effective, and cannot clearly limit federal actions. Thanks to Friends of the River and other groups, California has the best collection of Wild and Scenic Rivers in the nation. Sections of many of the finest streams have been designated. At the request of Governor Jerry Brown, most major rivers of the North Coast were enrolled in one sweeping action in 1981. Threatened rivers of the Sierra Nevada were later safeguarded. In recent years, smaller streams in southern California and the desert have been included. Important rivers for future designation are the Mokelumne, North Fork Stanislaus, Clavey, Kings above Pine Flat Reservoir, and lower Kern. 40

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The Wild and Scenic programs have not been effective in protecting the habitat of native fishes. Biologist Peter Moyle reported that 70 percent of the fishes have less than 10 percent of their habitat safeguarded, and that most have no reserved areas at all. Most of state government’s attention to fisheries has gone to game fish, but among 69 major species in California, only 11 are important harvestable fishes (another 12 once were but have been depleted). Moyle proposed a system of Aquatic Diversity Management Areas where essential habitat for all native fishes would be recognized and managed for biologic value. Another key protection technique is acquisition of land or easements for open space. Public agencies and land conservancies have done much to safeguard natural assets along rivers by buying private property, for example, along the Sacramento River above Red Bluff, Big Chico Creek above Chico, West Fork Carson in Hope Valley, and Big River upstream from Mendocino. Open-space acquisition could benefit virtually every river. Land use regulation through floodplain zoning is another protective strategy. One of few measures affecting private riverfronts, this could become the most important of all protection techniques. Though largely ignored by conservation organizations, better floodplain regulation has potential to safeguard the greatest mileage of riverfront at the least cost. The importance of this task will become increasingly evident with climate change and intensified flooding. Restoration of rivers means repairing damage of the past and reinstating at least some of native fish and wildlife, natural runoff cycles, water quality, undeveloped shorelines, and reconnected ecosystems. Full restoration is rarely possible, but even partial success can improve the qualities of rivers and the life in them. Though it’s harder and more expensive to restore a river that’s been damaged than to stop the damage before it occurs, restoration is popular; people and governments are often more willing to fix problems, spend money, and reclaim values of the past than to take steps to halt new development. Partial restoration is under way for the Trinity where dam releases now mimic natural floods, and for the San Joaquin, where diversions are being moderated. At a smaller scale, volunteers have repaired streambank erosion along Lagunitas Creek, replanted vegetation along the lower Tuolumne, and removed alien weeds along dozens of streams. The most dramatic restoration efforts have involved the removal of antiquated, unsafe, and harmful dams. In 2003 the National Park Service removed Cascade Dam on the Merced; the free-flowing stream can now be seen where Hwy. 41 enters the west end of Yosemite Valley. Dams have been removed for salmon on Butte Creek. The gates of Red Bluff Diversion Dam on the Sacramento River are slated to be permanently opened by 2012. Other plans are being considered for the Ventura River at Matilija Dam, Malibu Creek at Rindge Dam, and the Carmel River at San Clemente Dam. On the Klamath River, Boyle, Copco, and Iron Gate dams are scheduled to be dismantled in what may become the largest river restoration P R O B L E M S , P R O T E C T I O N , A N D R E S T O R AT I O N

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Iron Gate Dam on the Klamath River is slated for removal; this will be the most significant river restoration of its kind.

anywhere. Further candidates are Daguerre Point and Englebright dams on the Yuba. A group called Restore Hetch Hetchy even strives to eliminate the dam that John Muir tried to stop in Yosemite National Park. In another approach, the regulatory and relicensing processes for dams have been used to improve the flow regimes of many streams, including the North Fork Feather, Pit, and Mokelumne to favor native fishes, trout fisheries, and recreation. Long-sought changes in federal water projects brought improvements to the Trinity below Lewiston Dam. On Putah Creek, legal action has revived fish populations in a once-dry streambed. Friends of the River has identified 450 miles of streams including sections of the Kern, San Joaquin, Stanislaus, Mokelumne, American, Feather, and Pit where part of the natural flow regime has been restored. Most of this has been through hydropower relicensing; nonfederal power dams are required to be licensed by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission, and every 50 years those licenses must be renewed on the basis of current laws, including new environmental regulations. By 2020 half of California’s 300 private power dams will be up for new licenses, and the Hydropower Reform Coalition aims for some level of improvement of flows at nearly all of them.

Get Involved Protection and restoration programs of one form or another are under way for many streams with public agency and watershed groups working together. As part of your own exploration, enjoyment, or living along the 42

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waterways, inquire what’s being done to safeguard or improve your stream. Friends of the River staff are familiar with local efforts. Many smaller river conservation groups can be found on the Internet. Fishing organizations including Trout Unlimited and California Trout do excellent work. Land trusts including local groups, the Western Rivers Conservancy, the Nature Conservancy, and the Trust for Public Land save open space by buying it. County and local planning commissions welcome citizen involvement, or at least they should. Anyone interested in the future and fate of a favorite stream can learn about it through local groups or agencies, by searching on the Internet and at the library, and by simply going to the river and taking time to look. Use this knowledge to engage others. Teach children, and encourage schools to become involved with nearby streams. Join groups that are doing good work. Become politically active by supporting better care for our streams and by electing politicians who will do the job. Adopt a river as your own, because the qualities we have today will be lost unless people protect these lifelines running from mountains to sea.

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FIFT Y C OMMO N SPE CI E S O F R I VE R PL AN TS AND AN I MALS

Drawings and descriptions of 50 plants and animals in and along California’s rivers follow. This limited cast of characters barely scratches the surface of what you’ll see along the water, but it includes many of the most common or important life forms.

Trees and Shrubs Box Elder (Ashleaf Maple)

Acer negundo

A valuable member of the riparian community offering shade, shelter, and food, box elders grow at streamfronts across much of California except the desert. Maplelike seeds are relished by squirrels and songbirds, and the seeds, bark, and twigs are especially important in the diets of Evening Grosbeaks, porcupines, and deer. Compound trifoliate leaves look a lot like poison ivy, except that ivy has alternate rather than opposite leaves and grows as a shrub or vine.

Red Osier Dogwood

Known by its maroon-red stems, this shrub can reach up to 15 feet along rivers. It does well under a partial canopy and makes tangled and matted thickets along streambanks from high mountains to lowlands. Berrylike fruits are eaten by songbirds. Bears foraging along the shores of wilder streams gorge on the berries, and twigs are nourishing to deer, Elk, rabbits, and other mammals.

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Cornus sericea

California Black Walnut

Juglans californica

The only California tree having compound leaves with 11–19 leaflets, walnuts grow to 40 feet and have multistemmed or stout trunks up to 3 feet across. Spherical nuts are enclosed in a fleshy husk an inch in diameter, a powerhouse of fat and protein favored by squirrels. Walnuts grow on drier ground but do well on high banks above rivers. They readily hybridize with commercial English walnuts, and are used as rootstock for orchard walnuts because they resist soil pathogens.

California Sycamore

Platanus racemosa

Along with cottonwoods and valley oaks, sycamores tower as giants of the floodplain forests, reaching 80 feet with big limbs and umbrella canopies. The state’s largest is 8 feet in diameter. Bark has mottled patches of brown, white, tan, green, and gray. Thriving in warm regions but not the desert, fast-growing sycamores throw large shadows and keep streams cool. Their limbs provide nesting sites for birds, and older trees develop nesting cavities. Many birds eat the seeds, which ripen together in spheres, then crumble and release snowy-white filaments to drift in the wind. Deer and Muskrats eat the twigs. Anthracnose fungus kills the leaves of many sycamores in spring, but a second crop of foliage saves most trees. Gnarled old sycamores are the highlight of southern California streams. A few of the more exceptional groves grow along Arroyo Seco River, the Salinas River, Big Sycamore Canyon at Point Magu, and Malibu Creek.

Black Cottonwood

Populus balsamifera trichocarpa

The black cottonwood is the classic giant of California’s riverfronts, 1–3 feet or more in diameter with deeply furrowed bark. Leaves are somewhat triangular and longer than wide. Cottonwoods are identified by the lighter green undersides of leaves—easily seen from a distance in rustling wind. They appear on floodplains except in the desert, but thrive in coastal zones, the north, high elevations, and wetland edges. Thick pure stands germinate after FIFTY COMMON SPECIES

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floodwaters scour or deposit fresh silt. The trees grow quickly with roots that protect riverbanks. Shade-intolerant and short-lived, the groves die out in the absence of floods, which provide for germination and also prevent encroachment of conifers and other competitors. This keystone species offers food and shelter for many animals. Fallen trunks are crucial in streams, where the wood shelters fish, provides anchorage for invertebrates, and forms log jams that add variety and ecological diversity to the streambeds.

Fremont Cottonwood

Populus fremontii

Reaching a diameter of 1–3 feet, this riparian mainstay has leaves more coarsely toothed than those of the black cottonwood and wider than long. It grows tall in groves, but also singly with magnificent spreading canopies in arid regions. It favors dry country in low elevations of the Central Valley, central and southern Coast Ranges, and desert, where it can indicate groundwater seepage even far from surface water. Being the only large tree in many dry areas, cottonwoods are important habitat for wildlife. The trees die where surface water or groundwater is depleted by ditches or pumping; sun-bleached wood can show where streams once flowed.

Valley Oak

Quercus lobata

Signature tree of grassland savannas in California, this is the largest of western oaks and can reach 100 feet with a diameter of 5 feet, though the trunks are relatively short and stocky compared to the broadly spreading crowns. Small deciduous leaves are 2–4 inches long with rounded lobes. Two-inch acorns are long and thin. Oaks often live 400–600 years. Valley oaks do best in alluvial or floodplain soils, but also thrive on somewhat higher ground because the roots can burrow down 90 feet for water. Acorns provide food for deer, Acorn Woodpeckers, and a host of other wildlife; oak woodlands are second only to riparian zones as critical habitat. Valley and blue oaks—the two largest California species—fail to regerminate or survive as seedlings through much of their Central Valley and foothills range as a result of the introduction of cattle and related ecological transformations: alien grasses, weeds, booming rodent populations, and suppression of natural fires. The long life of this master shade tree is the principal reason valley oaks are still common. Wild, cattle-free riparian zones are among few areas where young valley oaks can be found. 46

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Black Willow

Salix gooddingii

The largest California willow, this tree can reach 100 feet (although 20–50 feet is typical) and grows in fascinating contorted shapes. It’s one of the most common large riverfront trees throughout the Central Valley and southern California, and also thrives in wetlands. Superb remnant groves lie along the Owens River north of Rte. 168. Long, slender, hairless, finely toothed leaves are pale green on both sides. The red willow is another substantial member of this family growing to 45 feet along the South Fork Kern and statewide, but the upper surface of its leaves is white and waxy. A keystone species of the riverfront, willows provide nesting sites for birds, and the buds and twigs are eaten by birds and mammals including grouse and beavers.

Narrowleaf Willow

Salix exigua

While the black and red willow gallantly shade the riverfront community, a host of other willow species green the sandbars and floodplains with brush-height groundcover. With long, thin leaves that are gray-green and covered with silky hairs, this shrubby willow thrives especially on sandbars. Like California’s 30 other wild willow species, it’s fast-growing but shortlived. Cut stems root easily, allowing it to resprout after harvest by beavers and making it important in the restoration of damaged riverbanks.

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Shining Willow

Salix lucida

This multistem tree can grow to 60 feet and has wide lance-shaped leaves that are shiny green on top and pale green underneath. It’s found in wetlands throughout the state. Like many willows, it hybridizes easily, making identification difficult.

White Alder

Alnus rhombifolia

The most common of four California alders, the white grows along streams throughout the state except in southern deserts. Leaves are finely serrated. Growing to 80 feet but usually less, alders are short-lived. A disturbance species, they germinate readily after floods or fires. Slender drooping male flower clusters form in spring, and female catkins later develop into woody “cones” a half-inch in diameter. Alders frequently dominate streamfronts throughout their range and are so common that they’re taken for granted, but their role in riverfront ecosystems is crucial; they are among few nonlegumes that harbor root swellings that host nitrogenfixing bacteria in the soil. These convert atmospheric nitrogen, which is plentiful, into soil-based nitrogen, which is scarce but needed by plants. For this reason, alders are important in areas recovering from fire or depleted by the washing away of leaves and other organic matter on floodplains. In dense thickets, alders provide food for North American Beavers, rabbits, deer, Mountain Beavers, moose, Elk, porcupines, grouse, and others. While white alder is most common, red alder is found along coastal streams south to San Luis Obispo and has doubly toothed leaves whose edges roll under. Sitka alder grows only in the north and has leaves with shiny, sticky undersides. Mountain alder grows above 4,000 feet with irregularly patterned veins on the undersides of its leaves.

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Armenian (Himalayan) Blackberry

Rubus discolor

This alien blackberry grows in massive bramblemounds formed by new stems growing on top of dead ones. The weed has escaped its original incursions along fencerows and roadsides and now plagues riverfronts in the Central Valley, foothills, and north. The long reach of the viney stems allows these briars to sprawl in impenetrable mats over riverbanks. Thorns are larger than those of native blackberries. Fruits are savored by birds in late summer, but this aggressive invader displaces native forbs, shrubs, and trees.

Poison Oak

Toxicodendron diversilobum

Included here because of the high consequence of catching a rash merely by touching it, poison oak has three shiny irregularly lobed leaflets and grows as a shrub several feet high, occasionally as a small tree to 15 feet, and as a vine on trees even 100 feet above the ground. It does well on riverbanks and riparian zones as well as on drier ground. Most people are sensitive to toxins in the leaves and bare stems, which cause rashes, blisters, and itching. The toxic oils can be transferred from clothing, shoes, or dogs. Immediate washing can remove the oil before it affects the skin. Most remedies for infection work poorly; the rash often runs its course for up to 6 weeks. Hot compresses of concentrated saltwater temporarily relieve itching and dry out the blisters.

Mollusks Clams and Mussels

Families Sphaeriidae and Unionidae

Like seashore clams, these freshwater cousins are bivalves: a ligament attaches two opposing shells, which protect soft body tissue in between. They are evident in many rivers through single shells that wash to shore after the clam dies; pea clams are often found in great numbers. Mussels (Unionidae)—a similar family of bivalves—anchor in sand or gravel among rocks with the use of a foot, which is a muscular structure shaped FIFTY COMMON SPECIES

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like an axe. Two tubular siphons draw water in and out, filtering algae. Eggs are incubated in the gills of the female, who then releases several thousand or more embryos. For some mussels, these drift but soon anchor to the gills or scales of fish; a particular species may be required. The fish’s migrations disperse the embryos, which pea clam fall into the riverbed and grow into adults. Mussels and clams are important food for shorebirds, ducks, turtles, fish, crayfish, raccoons, Muskrats, mink, and otters. Indians dined on hem extensively. They are highly sensitive to pollution, disturbance of natural flows, and siltation; conversely, the presence of native shellfish is an indicator of aquatic health. Exotic species, including the Asian Clam and striped Zebra Mussel, pose major threats to native populations and aquatic ecosystems.

Crustaceans Signal Crayfish

Pacifastacus leniusculus

Four-inch-long crustaceans with lobster-like claws and segmented body, crayfish have five pairs of legs. Common in quiet or slowly riffling waters, they cling to the bottom and eat carrion of worms, fish, insect larvae, and other crustaceans. On silty shorelines they burrow and in the process build diagnostic hollow dirt columns of pelletized mud an inch high. Large fish and frogs prey on crayfish, and they are occasionally caught on a fishing line simply because they cling to bait so firmly. The tails and claws are considered a delicacy. California has four native species, including the threatened Shasta Crayfish (P. fortis), but the introduced Red Swamp Crayfish is most common—a dark-red invader with raised red spots covering the body and claws, plus black stripes on top of the abdomen.

Insects Mayflies

Order Ephemeroptera

Adult mayflies are 1-inch-long insects with two to three upturned tails and large transparent upturned wings. They live only a day or two and do

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not feed, but hover over the water in great masses known as a “hatch.” These are a favorite meal of trout and young salmon; many dry-fly patterns are modeled after mayflies. Abundant hatches indicate a healthy aquatic ecosystem. During their nymph (larval) stage these common insects cling to the undersides of stones in moving Californian Speckled Dun water. Grazing on algae, they are (Callibaetis californicus) important converters of plant nutrients to animal protein. In a similar ecological niche, stoneflies are also important feed for fish; adults are 0.7 inch long and nearly black, with long translucent wings that rest against the body. Adult stoneflies leave the water and are found along shore but rarely fly. Caddisflies are likewise important and can be noticed by gently turning over rocks in shallow riffles and looking for larval shelters of sand particles glued together in thin columns.

Dragonfly

Infraorder Anisoptera

Among the largest insects, dragonflies reach 2–3.5 inches with impressive bulbous compound eyes and double sets of translucent wings spanning 3 inches. They flutter over water and eat flying insects including mosquitoes. Eggs are laid on water or aquatic plants. These hatch into larvae that eat mosquito and other insect larvae and in turn become important food for fish, shorebirds, and waterfowl. The Blue-eyed Darner male, with one of the widest ranges Blue-eyed Darner among California’s 68 dragonfly (Aeshna multicolor) species, has bright-blue eyes, a blue face, and blue stripes on the thorax.

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Damselfly

Suborder Zygoptera

Like the dragonfly, the damselfly has a double set of wings but is slender and shorter—usually no more than 1.5 inch long. Dragonflies rest with wings outstretched, but most damselflies rest with wings folded against their bodies. The Vivid Dancer has one of the widest ranges among California’s 40 species and is found throughout the state. It has bright blue eyes, thorax, and body, with a black stripe behind the head. Colors of other species range from blue to green and red. Damselflies prey on mosquitoes and smaller insects, and their larvae become food for shorebirds and waterfowl.

Water Strider

Family Gerridae

Skating on the surface of quiet eddies and pools, water striders stay afloat through surface tension; their feet have nonwettable hairs that do not disrupt the surface film of water. When alarmed, they dive but stay dry with water-repelling scales covering their bodies. While submerged they breathe oxygen from air bubbles trapped among tiny hairs. Less than an inch long, they dart quickly across the surface several inches at a time. Riffle bugs are similar but smaller, with relatively broader shoulders, and occur in dense agitated swarms on quiet pools. The heavier bodied water boatmen swim in erratic patterns as if randomly bouncing back and forth on the surface. All three groups eat aquatic insects or flying insects that drop onto the water.

Fishes White Sturgeon

Acipenser transmontanus

This largest freshwater fish in North America historically reached a staggering 20 feet and 1,400 pounds. Individuals can live more than 100 years, gaining weight the whole time. Sturgeons are ancient species with cartilaginous skeletons and bony scutes, or plates showing as lumps on the back and sides. They live in estuaries and the ocean but swim up large rivers to spawn. With mouths like flexible hoses, they feed on 52

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bottom-dwelling invertebrates. White Sturgeon range from Alaska to the Sacramento River; in California they spawn mainly in the Sacramento from late winter to early spring. Eggs are laid in deep, stony sites where they can tumble in the current and spread before anchoring onto the bottom. The largest population is in the San Francisco estuary, where they are subject to the problems of water withdrawals in the delta. The species appears to be declining though not as sharply as other delta natives. Sturgeon up to 300 pounds are caught in northeastern reaches of the delta. The less-common Green Sturgeon grows to 7 feet. A threatened species in the Sacramento and Feather rivers, it’s more common in the Klamath and Trinity, where it migrates far upstream after spending most of its life in the ocean. Both species have slow sexual maturation rates, which makes them vulnerable to overharvest and poaching for caviar. Both species were nearly fished to extinction by 1917, when the fishery was closed for 50 years.

Channel Catfish

Ictalurus punctatus

Inhabiting the deep, languid, warm waters of lowland California, catfish of seven species were all introduced from elsewhere in the United States. Channel Catfish have deeply forked tails and black spots along their sides and grow to 3 feet in the Sacramento–San Joaquin basins and Central–South Coast. They lie beneath overhanging banks and among sunken roots, and tolerate brackish and polluted water. All catfish have four pairs of barbels—intimidating whiskerlike stingers around the mouth—and shiny gray skin lacking scales. The Black Bullhead, Brown Bullhead, and Channel Catfish have the widest ranges; the white catfish is the prime sport species of the Sacramento–San Joaquin basins.

Riffle Sculpin

Cottus gulosus

California’s eight freshwater sculpin species are native and difficult to tell apart, though distinctive as a family. They are small, with two extended dorsal fins that cover much of their back, long anal fins, wide pectoral fins, protruding eyes, and large mouths. Bottom dwellers, they rest in eddies behind rocks. Though camouflaged, they can be seen in swift but shallow water, in small-creek riffles, and in sand or gravel backwaters. The Riffle Sculpin is found in clean water in the Sacramento Basin. FIFTY COMMON SPECIES

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Chinook (King) Salmon

Oncorhynchus tshawytscha

Truly a king of the rivers they inhabit, Chinook Salmon have distinct black spots on the back and the adipose fin (just forward from the tail) and on both lobes of the caudal (tail) fin. Up to 4 feet long, adults are larger than Coho Salmon, which migrate up some of the same streams. Though difficult to distinguish, Chinook fry have a whitish adipose fin compared to the Coho’s slightly darker fin. Chinook range from the Arctic to the Ventura River, but are seldom seen south of the San Joaquin. These are the most plentiful salmon in California. They spawn in coastal streams from the Sacramento north; fall runs enter the rivers with the first heavy rains of autumn. Eggs are laid in November or December and hatch in March or April. One adaptation to California waters is the young parr’s ability to escape quickly downstream after hatching in 3–4 weeks. This enables adults to spawn in streams that get too warm and low in summer. “Spring runs” of Chinook enter rivers in late winter and remain for the summer before spawning in the fall. Once they leave the ocean, they don’t eat, but subsist on a reservoir of body oils—a feature that has made them a favored delicacy. However, throughout California the spring runs are nearly extinct while the fall runs are in serious jeopardy as a result of dams, delta diversions, habitat loss, exotic predators, hatcheries, and historic overharvest.

Coho (Silver) Salmon

Oncorhynchus kisutch

Sharing the Chinook’s central role in river ecosystem health by delivering nutrients from the sea, Coho Salmon are similar but generally under 3 feet long. With black spots on their backs and on the upper half of their caudal fins, they have pinkish red sides during the breeding season and develop a hooked jaw. Young parr have a uniformly speckled adipose fin and a sickle-shaped anal fin with a white edge. They range from the Arctic to the San Lorenzo River; the only remaining native populations south of San Francisco are on the verge of extinction in Scott and Waddell creeks north of Santa Cruz. Unlike the larger Chinook, Coho spawn in small streams, and the fry stay a year before going out to sea. This makes them dependent on clean water, adequate flows, and cool water temperatures. Coho have thus become the “canary in the coal mine” of coastal watersheds; their decline (legally endangered south of San Francisco Bay and functionally endangered

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north of it) indicates watershed damage, stream temperatures rising above a fatal 77 degrees F, and silt pollution that harms the gills.

Rainbow Trout/Steelhead

Oncorhynchus mykiss

The most popular game fish in California, Rainbow Trout have small irregular spots on their sides with a long pinkish red stripe. In part because of hatcheries, these are the most abundant trout in California and the West, and their range was expanded even farther into fishless and Cutthroat Trout waters. Native stocks of Rainbows can be genetically compromised by hatchery strains, and some disappear when stocked fish dominate. Rainbows like cold riffling currents, and drifting insects are favored food, especially larvae and adult caddisfly, stonefly, and mayfly. Positioned in eddies behind rocks, trout await insects in the downstream drift. Steelhead are anadromous Rainbow Trout that go to sea where they grow larger. More silvery, they return to spawn after 2 years. Coho, which enter rivers at the same time, appear similar, but Steelhead generally develop a less prominent hook in the jaw and are often more slender. Young Steelhead and Coho both prefer small cold streams, but Steelhead generally like riffles while Coho prefer pools. Unlike salmon, Steelhead don’t always die after spawning and can return to the ocean and then come back again to their natal stream. These trout grow to 45 inches and range the entire California coast but are rare south of San Francisco. Both resident Rainbows and Steelhead trout spawn in the spring, though Steelhead may move from the ocean into the rivers in autumn and remain there until spawning season. Winter runs of Steelhead are favorites of anglers; unlike salmon, they feed while moving upriver. Spring runs that stay in rivers through summer are also present in some streams. Unlike resident Rainbows that seek shelter in eddies and deep pools, migrating Steelhead like to stay in the current, behind rocks, or at the top of riffles. The fastest fish in freshwater, they can cover 27 feet per second. These and other trout are at the front line of injury from warming flows, diversions, and dams. Sport fisheries are generally limited to stocked fish, identified by a clipped adipose fin.

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Golden Trout

Oncorhynchus mykiss aguabonita, O. m. whitei, O. m. gilberti

This rare but most-colorful western trout has 10 parr marks (dark ovals) on its golden sides, red belly and cheeks, and large black spots on the back and caudal fins. It takes three different forms that are subspecies of Rainbow Trout. The state’s official freshwater fish, the California Golden Trout is endemic to the upper Kern Basin and evolved with distinct characteristics in high-Sierra isolation. It’s also been introduced at hundreds of other high-country locations in California and the West, where it often hydridizes with Rainbow Trout. Hatchery-raised Rainbow, Brown, and Brook trout released into the Golden Trout’s native habitat have compromised much of the gene pool of this distinctive fish.

Brook Trout

Salvelinus fontinalis

Colorful introduced trout, “brookies” have blue halos around pink-to-red spots on their sides. The back is dark or green; breeding males have a red underbelly blending to yellow. A native of the East, they favor small spring-fed streams and have been introduced to thousands of Sierra lakes. Among California trout, these are second in numbers only to Rainbows. Some lakes and streams teem with so many that their growth is stunted to 6 inches and they completely displace native Cutthroat, Golden, and Rainbow trout.

Brown Trout

Salmo trutta

Introduced from Europe, the Brown Trout has black and red spots over most of its body, including the gill cover. A voracious eater, this large trout preys upon and decimates native species including Rainbows. Browns excel in streams with deep pools, where they are exceptionally wary of anglers. They often wait a long time to take a lure, and then do so slowly. Favored angling technique is to drift bait or spinners underwater through deep pools.

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Delta Smelt

Hypomesus transpacificus

This endemic fish of the delta is included here because it’s nearing extinction as a result of diversions of water and predation by exotic Striped and Largemouth bass. The species rebounded slightly in 2011 with increased delta flows. The delicate, silvery blue, almost translucent, 3-inch smelt once populated the delta by the hundreds of thousands. Most live only 1 year and die after spawning, making the species sensitive to environmental problems. In 1993 the fish was listed as threatened; because of continuing steep decline and vulnerability to the effects of water diversions, the smelt are a pivotal point in negotiations about delta water withdrawals. The Longfin Smelt is similarly troubled but less endangered, because it lives for 2–3 years. The related Eulachon is a larger smelt once central to Indian fisheries and the food chain in northern rivers but now threatened and largely gone from California; its remnant populations are mostly in the Klamath.

Striped Bass

Morone saxatilis

A game fish from the Atlantic Coast, “stripers” were introduced in 1879 and are now found in the delta and lower Central Valley rivers up to the first barrier dams such as Folsom, Red Bluff, and Daguerre Point. They have also been introduced to the lower Colorado and many reservoirs. Reaching 4 feet, they have diagnostic body-length black stripes. Unlike other fishes, Striped Bass can move freely between freshwater and saltwater. They typically enter San Francisco Bay from the ocean in September through April and then move upstream to the Sacramento and San Joaquin in April through May to spawn. In recent decades populations of juveniles have been slashed 80 percent or more by delta withdrawals and other problems including alien species, though the stripers themselves have probably contributed to declines of native fishes, including salmon, in the past.

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Smallmouth Bass

Micropterus dolomieu

This popular game fish from the East now inhabits large rivers and lower elevation reservoirs. Bass, like other sunfish, are large-bodied with elongated dorsal fins. Smallmouth Bass prefer relatively cooler waters and streams (but still warm), while the Largemouth Bass are found in warmer reservoirs. Both eat a variety of food, prey on young salmon, and can decimate crayfish and native fish populations.

Sacramento Sucker

Catostomus occidentalis

With a belly tainted yellow-gold and a blunt nose, the Sacramento is one of 11 sucker species in California. All are natives with thick lips adapted to sucking invertebrates from the bottom, and a single dorsal fin. The Sacramento Sucker is found from the Mad River southward to the Salinas, including the Sacramento–San Joaquin basins, and it’s one of few native fishes that has thrived despite massive changes to the rivers. They prefer clear cold pools of larger streams and reservoirs. Endemics include the Razorback Sucker, found only in the Colorado River; the Klamath Largescale Sucker of the upper Klamath and Lost rivers; the Owens Sucker from the Owens Basin; the Tahoe Sucker from the northeastern Sierra; and the Santa Ana Sucker of the Santa Ana and nearby rivers. Browsing off the bottom and eating mainly algae, suckers offer little competition to predatory game fishes and serve as a valuable link in river food webs.

Sacramento Pikeminnow

Ptychocheilus grandis

(formerly Sacramento Squawfish)

A fine-tasting, hard-fighting, underrated game fish, the pikeminnow is the largest member of the minnow family in California. It has a slender body and elongated nose, and can exceed 3 feet (slightly larger, the Colorado Pikeminnow is extinct in California’s portion of the Colorado River because dams block migration). This native top predator lives in the Sacramento and San Joaquin system plus the Pit, Russian, Salinas, and Pajaro. It was introduced to the Eel with disastrous results for young salmon. Preferring clear streams, the pikeminnow was a major food for Indians and early settlers.

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Amphibians and Reptiles California Newt

Taricha torosa

These common salamanders are the most-seen amphibians in streams or on land. Bright orange below and reddish brown above, they are 4 inches long. In late winter adults leave underground shelters and roam across the land where they show no fear of predators; tetrodotoxin in their bodies is powerful enough that ingestion of one newt could be fatal to a person. Their slow pace and peregrinating tendencies put them at high risk at road crossings, where many are killed. They enter the water and develop a fin for swimming; in flatwater, hundreds can occasionally be seen in wiggling masses. Eggs hatch into pale-yellow larvae with gills. When 2 inches long, these tadpoles metamorphose, grow lungs, and exit the water for their terrestrial stage when they’re called efts. Three newt species inhabit California.

Foothill Yellow-legged Frog

Rana boylii

From 1.5 to 3 inches long, these frogs have black, brown, gray, or green coloring with irregular dark spots; undersides are whitish with some yellow. They live in Sierra foothill streams below 6,000 feet and spawn in spring after the water level begins to drop. Egg masses form a jellylike clump a quarter-inch in diameter on rocks. Tadpoles hatch and transform into tiny frogs in summer. The slightly larger Mountain Yellow-legged Frog occupies highcountry lakes and streams but has been driven nearly to extinction by the introduction of nonnative trout. Both frog species are imperiled and absent from much of their original range. Airborne agricultural chemicals drifting onto waters are suspected as a cause of the foothill species’ decline; upwind of farmlands, Coast Range populations do better. The similar Red-legged Frog of lowlands is even more threatened. Alien Bullfrogs have aggravated the native amphibians’ decline and have become the most common frog along many lowland rivers.

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Western Pond Turtle

Clemmys marmorata

Five to eight inches long, these turtles are olive brown or almost black on top with yellowish tints below. The only native turtles of interior California, they live in quiet streams of the Central Valley and foothills as well as the Coast, Transverse, and Peninsular ranges. They line up on partly submerged logs near the shores, basking in the sun, and eat aquatic plants, insects, and carrion. Females lay one to 13 eggs in a hole excavated on shore. Turtles hibernate in the winter. A species of special concern because of riparian habitat loss, their numbers have sharply declined.

Birds Wood Duck

Aix sponsa

Found in many slow-moving, tree-shaded streams in the Central Valley and northward, male Wood Ducks sport a slicked-back crest of green and white feathers and ornate patterns of blue, maroon, black, and white on their heads, wings, and breasts. Quick to flush at the approach of a boat, they fly with a squeaking sound as their wings beat. They navigate through thick woods and depend on cavities of large trees for nesting. Unusual for waterfowl, they eat mostly seeds and acorns. These colorful ducks were nearly driven to extinction in the early 1900s by market hunters, but populations have recovered.

Mallard

An everyday duck of city parks and slow water, Mallards are also one of the most common wild ducks on rivers. Males have handsome iridescent green heads and maroon breasts; females are mottled brown. They dip their heads into the water and tip their bodies to eat aquatic vegetation. Mallards nest on the ground in grassy areas. 60

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

Anas platyrhynchos

Common Merganser

Mergus merganser

This is the most common duck on rivers and large streams of California and the United States. The female’s red head feathers are swept back into a crest; males have a striking green head with white and black body. Quintessential diving ducks, they are fast and adroit underwater and snag fish in serrated beaks. In early summer females are seen with broods of three to seven chicks; the very young climb onto their mother’s back for safe travel. Some mothers inherit broods and can accumulate 20 chicks. Like other fish eaters, mergansers are a sign of good fish populations and usually indicate a healthy aquatic ecosystem.

Great Blue Heron

Ardea herodias

Like statues, these largest birds of the California riverscape stand up to 46 inches tall. With stiltlike legs for wading in shallows, a long neck, and dagger-shaped beak for spearing fish, crayfish, and frogs, they are often seen at the shoreline waiting for prey. Herons sometimes occupy rookeries with nests made of sticks in tall cottonwoods. When disturbed, they croak in a raspy voice and fly away with elegantly slow wingbeats.

Osprey

Pandion haliaetus

The “fish hawk” is the principal raptor of the riverscape and has a white breast, striped tail, and mottled wings that span up to 5 feet and angle back at the wrist, or what seems to be an elbow. They call in a piercing whistle, especially when aggravated if you get too near their nests—masses of sticks atop tall snags. They perch on limbs with good vantage to slow-moving water, or they soar overhead until they spot a fish. Then they dive nearly straight down, tucking wings partway, and hit the water with their talons to snatch fish. FIFTY COMMON SPECIES

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Ospreys are found along many California rivers; on some reaches of the Klamath they are seldom out of sight.

Spotted Sandpiper

Actitis macularia

This is the most common shorebird along rivers. Seven inches long, with a graybrown back and white breast that’s spotted in the breeding season, they scurry on flats plucking nymphs of caddisflies and dragonflies, plus beetles, ants, and other insects out of the sand. When standing they bob their tails up and down. When flying with their double wingbeat, they let out a shrill piping cry.

Belted Kingfisher

Megaceryle alcyon

These charismatic 12-inch birds with blue and white plumage have a sharply raised crown of feathers and a powerful beak. With gliding and dipping flights, they cry out in rattling, chattering calls. Kingfishers perch on overhanging limbs or on rocks where trees are not available, watch for small fish, then dive, occasionally submerging completely. For nesting, they dig burrows 3–6 feet deep into the sides of sandy banks above their stream.

Black Phoebe

This 7-inch, black-and-white flycatcher is often seen at riverfronts. Dark gray with a white breast, it perches in streamside brush and flutters over the water to snatch insects out of the air. This is the only member of the large flycatcher family that lingers so much along rivers.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE RIVERS

Sayornis nigricans

Cliff Swallow

Petrochelidon pyrrhonota

In numbers of birds along California rivers, the swallow family ranks first. All species soar in acrobatic flight over the water, zooming as they catch insects on the wing or swoop low for a drink. The Cliff Swallow has a squared-off tail, buff forehead, and blue cap. It builds a mud-dabbed, gourdshaped nest under the shelter of an overhanging rock or bridge. The Tree Swallow is green-backed and nests in tree cavities. The Bank Swallow is brown with white under its chin and a white breast with a brown breast band below the chin. It nests in holes excavated in exposed banks. The Rough-winged Swallow looks much like a Bank Swallow but lacks the brown breast band.

American Dipper (Water Ouzel)

Cinclus mexicanus

This 6-inch bird is the star of mountain streams. It stands at the edge of rapids and in the spray of waterfalls, bobs up and down, plucks insects from wet rocks, then dives into the stream where it walks on the bottom to snag larvae as deep as 20 feet. Slate gray, it has yellow feet and gives a chattering call, occasionally bursting forth with a melody of trills. Dippers are the only songbirds living entirely along mountain streams, wintering over at unfrozen spots. Their specialized circulatory system enables them to endure icy water by temporarily shutting off circulation to the legs.

Canyon Wren

Catherpes mexicanus

A delight along drier riverfronts and canyons, especially in the Sierra foothills, this 5-inch bird has a rusty back, white upper breast, and a slightly down-turned long yellow bill that probes for insects in rocky terrain. It’s best identified by the distinctive call—a loud series of descending whistles that come more slowly at the end.

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Mammals North American Beaver

Castor canadensis

North American Beavers can reach 60 pounds and live in streams in the northern two-thirds of California from sea level to 7,000 feet. They eat twigs, bark, and inner bark of willows, aspens, cottonwoods, and alders, plus other trees when favored foods are scarce. Special bacteria and protozoa in North American Beavers’ stomachs enable them to digest cellulose; scat resembles coarse sawdust. Only occasionally seen in daylight, North American Beavers are most active at night, when the staccato slap of their tail can sometimes be heard. Evidence of North American Beavers is often seen in cut stumps and limbs along waterways, large webbed tracks, and the drag-lines of branches showing in the sand. Most North American Beavers in California live in riverbank holes dug in soft soil. Beaver dams reverse erosive down-cutting of the streams and allow the reestablishment of riparian plant and animal communities.

River Otter

Lontra canadensis

The quintessential river mammal, otters are playful swimmers. One of the largest members of the weasel family, these sleek furbearers grow to 30 inches. Their size and thick furry tails set them apart from mink and Muskrats, which also swim and scurry at the edges of rivers. Scat is often an unshaped mass of bone and shell fragments. Five toes show in tracks about 1.5 inches wide. In the water, their porpoiselike roll is often all that can be seen, but occasionally whiskered heads surface, stare curiously, and hiss. Otters can also be seen romping on shore or lying together in a pile as a family unit. Populations were decimated by hunting and trapping, but since the elimination of commercial trapping in 1961 numbers have increased. They range throughout northern California and the Central Valley, and eat shellfish, crayfish, frogs, and fish such as carp and suckers.

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American Mink

Mustela vison

This sleek member of the weasel family lives along streams throughout northern California, the Sierra, and the northern Central Valley, and reaches 17 inches. Minks eat mostly invertebrates such as crayfish and frogs, but also fish, and occasionally kill Muskrats, which can be similar in size but have ratlike tails and prefer marshes. Minks are typically seen hurrying along the shore and slipping into the water when threatened.

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66

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R IV ER P ROF IL ES

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As the heart of Field Guide to California Rivers, this part of the book offers profiles of 150 different waterways and mentions many others. Streams have been selected based on importance, size, biologic significance, and appeal for hiking, fishing, and nonmotorized boating. They’re organized by larger hydrologic regions and appear from north to south. Space doesn’t allow for some of the finer details about hiking, fishing, or boating, but I strived to include enough guidance for you to successfully explore on your own. Keep in mind that conditions change, and always watch for hazards not identified here. I find surprises all the time related not only to the vagaries of weather and water level, but also landslides, fallen trees, and people’s varying assessment of danger. I’ve personally visited most of the streams and I’ve paddled my canoe or rowed my raft on many, but not all, and so I’ve also drawn on other guidebooks, especially for the difficult Class V rivers, many of which I’ve not run. I’m indebted to Jim Cassady and Fryar Calhoun for California Whitewater, Dick Schwind for West Coast River Touring, and Chuck Stanley and Lars Holbek for A Guide to the Best Whitewater in the State of California. The website “California Creeks,” by Bill Tuthill, is a source that covers small and large streams and updates information from other guidebooks, as does American Whitewater’s website. Friends of the River’s website also includes excellent descriptions of many of California’s streams. If you’re paddling Class IV and up, detailed guidebooks should always be consulted. Yet be aware that every guide includes mistakes or information that has changed over time. I was not able to field-check all the information from other guides, and some of the directions to river sites are gleaned from these other guidebooks and from the DeLorme California atlas. See “A Word of Warning” at the opening of this book, and if you are paddling or rowing on rivers, see American Whitewater’s Safety Code and follow it. Tom Stienstra’s guide, California Fishing, covers almost any questions about fishing, not to be confused with the fish themselves or their biologic status. For this, see Dr. Peter Moyle’s masterful and thoroughly readable Inland Fishes of California. The difficulty of running rivers changes dramatically with water level. My recommendations are most relevant for low-to-medium flows. As levels rise, hazards increase. When the river descriptions that follow include flow figures for boating, these numbers are largely drawn from other guidebooks and represent not a recommendation but rather a range of what other experienced paddlers have considered a boatable flow. This can include unexpected difficulties and hazards. Levels can most easily be checked on the Internet from www.dreamflows.com. The National Weather Service provides excellent data on current and predicted runoff (www.cnrfc.noaa.gov). Data are also available from the State Department of Water Resources (http://cdec.water. ca.gov/), or the U.S. Geological Survey. The difficulty of paddling or rowing is rated according to the International Scale of River Difficulty, as described by the organization American Whitewater. Ratings cited in this field guide are largely taken 68

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CLASSIFICATIONS OF RAPIDS

Class I: Moving water with a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions. Class II: Easy rapids with waves up to 3 feet, and wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting. Some maneuvering is required. Class III: Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore. Class IV: Long, difficult rapids with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore is often necessary, and conditions make rescue difficult. Generally not possible for open canoes. Boaters in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to roll. Class V: Extremely difficult, long, and very violent rapids with highly congested routes that nearly always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult, and there is significant hazard to life in event of a mishap. Ability to roll is essential for kayaks and canoes.

from other guidebooks. In the past few decades some boaters have downgraded ratings because of new equipment and rising skill levels. I tend not to do that, and to see rapids from a whitewater canoeists’ perspective. The standard difficulty ratings are detailed above. Your own analysis is the final test. Beware of launching on a rising river, especially during winter storms. A lesser but common hazard is poison oak, which occurs along so many of California’s low-elevation streams that I omit it from my descriptions. In the following pages I sometimes note when guided trips are offered, but for more complete coverage of commercial trips, search the Internet. Unfortunately, precautions must be taken to not spread alien and noxious species of animals and plants from one stream to another on boating and fishing gear. Boating is prohibited in a few areas because of this hazard—inquire locally when in doubt. If there’s any chance of encountering the exotic Zebra or Quagga mussels, New Zealand Mudsnails, or other alien species, such as in the delta or low-elevation waters, wash your gear thoroughly before going to another stream. I always check my boots and carefully dispose of seeds after hiking. In the descriptions here, you’ll see more information on hiking and boating than on fishing. But the hiking and boating information is useful RIVER PROFILES

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or essential for fishing as well. The best way to see a stream is by traveling down it. Much of the best fishing is done from a boat, and access areas for river trips are sometimes the only places where anglers can legally fish from shore. Trails follow along sections of some rivers but not nearly all; I’ve noted what I could find, as well as the occasional chance to take a mountain bike for a riverfront spin. Basic data on length, volume, and watershed area are surprisingly difficult to find; no official gazetteer of such information exists. Mileages, flow amounts, and watershed areas given here were mostly calculated through GIS and related computer systems by GIS-trained specialists of the consulting firm Conservation Geography specifically for this book. Other published sources vary with one another to an unexpected degree. Lengths were taken from the USGS National Hydrography Dataset (high resolution of 1:24,000). For specific subreaches that are also covered in popular paddling guidebooks, I use their mileages to avoid confusion. I round off distances to the mile. Some rivers’ names begin with the confluence of two tributaries (such as the Kings, which begins at the Middle and South Fork confluence). When this occurs, I also note the mileage of the combined main stem and its extension up the largest headwater tributary (these are essentially the same river with two names). The size of a river (“second-largest,” etc.), refers to amount of flow—not length— and I use mean (average) cubic feet per second (cfs). There can be considerable ambiguity in measurements of flow. Most data were collected by the Conservation Geography analysts using a Unit Runoff Method [(MAFLOWU as a component of dataset NHDPlus, established by the USGS and Environmental Protection Agency, though in some cases I used USGS gauge numbers, which may differ (gauges are not available for many streams)]. Diversions are one of the big variables when reporting flow; estimates are generally from the lowest station on the stream, though some figures are taken upstream to avoid reflection of extreme withdrawals at the bottom ends of the rivers. Flows vary radically through the year; I cite the average principally so that streams can be compared to each other. Watershed area in square miles was determined by use of a GIS program, CUMDRAINAG, as a component of NHDPlus. Regional maps here locate featured rivers, but anyone going out will want a state highway map and probably better coverage such as the two DeLorme Map books of California—the most information for the least cost. I would have a hard time exploring without these maps. National forest maps are excellent, especially for hiking, and USGS topographic maps offer the most detail. All these can be found in outdoor stores or on the Internet.

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NO RTH COAST ORE GON

I D AH O

5 101

395

Redding

North Coast 99 5

NEV AD A

1

80

20

Sacramento

101

50

80 49

395

Stockton

San Francisco

San Jose

99

1

Fresno

Salinas 5 101

395 99

1

Bakersfield

15

Barstow 40 101

5

Santa Barbara San Bernardino

Los Angeles 10

5

N

0 0

San Diego 100 miles 100 kilometers

8

B AJ A N O R TME H X CIOCAOS T

71

N Fk Smith

it Sm

ath R 97

sta S ha

th

Klam

k

C Mill

SF

Crescent City

OREGON

ith Sm

S mi

h

k MF

Ck ley

Scott R

W

R

k Prairie Ck

oo

Sal

m

on R

Trin i

Ma tt

ole

k

ty R

Trinity Dam

it rin kT SF

Van Duzen

Canyon C

R

Ne

d Ck woo R d Ma

Elk

wR

Red

Eureka

5

N Fk Trinity

101

Redding

y

R

S Fk Eel Fk

Eel R

Ee l

Quincy

M

99

Chico

101 1

Noyo R Mendocino

Albion R

Big R

80 20 20

ro

Nav ar

5

Garcia Auburn

n sia R us R

Gu ala R la Fk la S ala Gu

50

Sacramento pa Na

99

80

R

Santa Rosa 1

Napa

n gu

La 49

s

ita

North Coast

80

Stockton

Redwood Ck

Oakland

San Francisco

Ala me Ck da

101

RIVER PROFILES

50 kilometers

u dal

50 miles 72

0

Gua

N

0

San Jose

1

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R

99 5

Smith River

The Smith is the largest completely undammed river in California, and the entire watershed is one of the best-protected major basins on the West Coast. It empties into the Pacific 3 miles south of Oregon. The main stem forms at the South Fork– Middle Fork confluence, and the final 12 miles glide across a coastal plain to a spectacular natural mouth. The entire watershed lies within the Siskiyou Mountains and Coast Range, and cuts through erodible rocks including the Josephine ophiolite—a large formation of former oceanic crust overlying peridotite (upper mantle rock), which is often altered to serpentinite and accounts for the greenish color of many outcrops. Unusual worldwide but common in the Smith Basin, this assemblage is rich in magnesium and heavy metals but lacks potassium, phosphorus, and nutrients needed by most plants, resulting in stunted trees and rare endemic species. Located 5 miles south of the mouth, Lake Earl was the Smith’s ancestral outlet 10,000 years ago and remains the largest coastal lagoon south of Canada. The adjacent Tolowa Dunes—windblown sand from the Smith—are a hotspot of biodiversity on the West Coast. The Smith’s 3,100 miles of tributaries drop through canyons where 100 inches of rain yield California’s highest runoff per acre (255 inches of annual precipitation at Camp Six in 1982 is among the highest recorded Length: 18 miles (59 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 4,014 cfs Watershed: 679 square miles

Smith River at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.

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in the 48 states, though ungauged sites in the Olympic Mountains get more). With its unusual variety of soils, the basin supports at least 27 species of rare or endangered plants and the most diverse collection of conifers on the planet—30 species. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, which flanks the river for 5 miles, includes one of the finest redwood groves anywhere. The Smith is also the cleanest large stream on California’s coast— crystal-clear except during floods. Even then, with relatively little surface disturbed by recent logging, the river clears faster than other streams. Having both its watershed and natural flood cycle intact, this is one of few places where one can see high flows that remain transparently clear, and one of few where natural floods still scour extremely deep pools that maintain cold water for native fish. Roadless areas account for one-third of the basin, which is largely in public ownership except for some frontage on lower tributaries and downstream from the state park. The Smith has the best remaining Steelhead and salmon runs in the state, with a strong Steelhead season from December through April. Chinook and Coho salmon come in from the ocean October through December. Coastal Cutthroat are abundant and occur in other basins southward only to the Eel River. The Wild Salmon Center has named the Smith California’s only Salmon Stronghold—a distinguished river with viable salmon runs. The entire Smith and many tributaries were designated in the State Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 1972. At the request of Governor Jerry Brown, the federal government amplified protection by adding the entire length of the three forks and main stem to the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 1981. Forty-eight smaller streams were also named for a total of 338 miles, making the Smith the most completely designated watershed in the National Rivers System. Most federal land was likewise enrolled in the 305,000-acre Smith River National Recreation Area in 1990; recreation and protection goals now trump extraction. Subsequent reforms in timber management averted Forest Service plans to clear-cut 100 million board feet from watersheds prone to landslides, according to the state Resources Agency’s Smith River Draft Management Plan of 1980. Protection notwithstanding, sediment loads are heavier than natural conditions because of past logging and mining, and roads, and fish populations have declined by 50 to 80 percent from original numbers according to the Management Plan. For 30 years the Smith River Alliance has worked for protection, including hard-fought gains to designate the National Recreation Area, prevent open-pit nickel mines, and acquire cutover land for restoration. WHERE TO GO

The main stem flows along Hwys. 197 and 199, and two riverfront trails in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park reach the water. The Hiouchi Trail starts on the west side of the 199 bridge half a mile downstream from the state park campground and runs upstream. The Stout Grove Trail can be visited via a footbridge in summer 74

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at the campground. In other seasons, the exemplary grove can be reached by driving east on Hwy. 199 past Hiouchi, south on South Fork Road, then right on Howland Hill Road for 2 miles. Also, a fine view can be seen from a short path to the confluence of the Middle/South forks: east of Hiouchi turn south and cross the Middle Fork bridge, then turn right to the boat ramp and walk downriver. Ruby Van Deventer County Park has access 3 miles east of Hwy. 101 along 197. To view the river’s mouth, drive north from the Hwy. 101 bridge 6 miles and turn west on Smith River Road. To see the interesting south side of the lower river, go just south of the 101 bridge, turn west on Lake Earl Drive, north on Bailey, west on Moseley, north on Lower Lake, and west on Pala to the end, where a 1-mile walk in Tolowa Dunes State Park reaches the mouth. In late March thousands of once-rare Aleutian Geese congregate on grasslands there. Salmon fishing is popular on the lower river in late fall, and Steelhead draw anglers in winter. The Smith is renowned for large fish, with the state record Steelhead and Chinook of 27 and 86 pounds, respectively. In most years a number of 50-pound Chinook are caught. The lower river is one of California’s finest for driftboat angling. The Smith also has the best sea-run Cutthroat Trout population in California, fished in summer. Some upper tributaries have excellent angling for resident Rainbow and Cutthroat. With mostly broad riffling currents, the main stem offers Class I–II canoeing for 16 miles from the Middle Fork–South Fork confluence to below Hwy. 101. After 3 miles, access is available below the 199 bridge on the south side, and farther down at Van Deventer Park. For the full 16 miles, take out a mile below the 101 bridge; drive to the north side and turn west on Fred Haight Drive for 1 mile to a county ramp. The upper part of this run is one of the premier rivers for seeing redwoods, and the whole main stem is one of few coastal streams that can be canoed all summer, though winter/spring offers a rare chance to paddle on high, clear water. Expect windy afternoons, especially in summer.

North Fork Smith River

This is the Smith’s wildest fork, beginning on Chetco Peak in Oregon’s Kalmiopsis Wilderness. It flows 12 miles to the California border and another 16 miles to the Middle Fork at Gasquet. Water is exceptionally clear thanks to the lack of roads and logging. Much of the North Fork has lateritic soils, which lack calcium, nitrogen, sodium, and potassium needed by most plants. Furthermore, nickel, chromium, and cobalt in the soil stunt trees, and an unusual assortment of forbs, shrubs, and carnivorous plants excel. Deep green pools are a signature of the North Fork. Elsewhere even in remote basins of the North Coast, pools are generally filled at least partly Length: 28 miles, including 12 miles in Oregon Average flow: 942 cfs Watershed: 158 square miles

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by gravel and cobbles. Many believe that this aggradation occurred with the great floods of 1955 and 1964, which followed heavy logging. But because of the North Fork’s stunted forests, almost no logging had occurred here. Today, the stream’s deep pools illustrate the important relationship between watershed conditions and streambed morphology. Baldface Creek is a tributary 2 miles north of the state boundary, where excellent salmon spawning habitat could become threatened by claims for nickel mining. WHERE TO GO

No roads follow this river, and trails are few. To reach the lower basin’s Stony Creek Trail, take Hwy. 199 to Gasquet, turn left on Middle Fork Road (Forest 314), cross the Middle Fork, turn left on Forest 318, and go to the end. A mile-long path ends at the striking mouth of the creek; a lush stand of pitcher plants grows just upstream along this tributary. To take the long drive to Baldface Creek, follow the directions below to the boaters’ put-in, then continue east 3 miles and turn left (a gate is closed until summer) on a 6-mile road to Baldface. In California Whitewater, Cassady and Calhoun call the North Fork “one of the loveliest wilderness whitewater runs in the country.” The stream receives relatively little use because of its remoteness, difficulty, and short winter/spring season; unlike the South Fork, the basin lacks high peaks and their extended snowmelt. A 13-mile expert raft or kayak run begins near the Oregon border and ends at Gasquet—continuous Class III–IV with no road or trail access, making rescue difficult. To reach the put-in from Hwy. 101, turn east on Rte. 197, then north on Low Divide Road (Forest Road 305) for 9 miles, turn sharp right where Rowdy Creek Road joins from the left, then go another 13 miles on Low Divide (also called Wimer Road) to the North Fork bridge— 22 slow miles of dirt road in all.

Middle Fork Smith River

Middle Fork Smith headwaters plunge from Bear Mountain to the South Fork confluence. Steep rapids are formed by outcrops of the Josephine ophiolite with its mix of both soft and resistant ocean-floor rocks. In 2002 the Biscuit Fire burned large areas to the north, which are recovering with new forest. Length: 28 miles Average flow: 787 cfs Watershed: 131 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 199 parallels the stream with pullouts for fishing and swimming. At Patrick Creek, entering from the north 7 miles east of Gasquet, spawning salmon can be seen after the first autumn rains. A nature trail at the Myrtle Creek Botanical Area on the north side near the Middle–South Fork confluence features the rare California pitcher plant. 76

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Middle Fork Smith River in Oregon Hole Gorge.

Gravel roads offer good mountain biking; on the north side of the river, Forest Service 316 follows Patrick Creek for 4 miles and continues in a long mountainous arc with views to the Middle Fork canyon. Winter/spring runoff of the Middle Fork bounds through steep Class III whitewater for 9 miles from Patrick Creek to Gasquet, with one Class IV rapid. At Gasquet the Middle Fork is joined by the larger North Fork and continues with one of California’s superb Class II–III paddling reaches from an access just west of Gasquet to the entrance of Oregon Hole Gorge. Before the trip, walk down to the obscure takeout below Hwy. 199, five miles west of Gasquet, and mark it from the river—the one-mile Class V Oregon Hole gorge lies immediately downstream! A scenic highlight of North Coast rivers, that gorge can be seen from pullouts along the highway.

South Fork Smith River

The South Fork rushes from headwaters near Bear Mountain to the Middle Fork. There is only nominal road access to the upper 24 miles, while the South Fork Road parallels the lower river. This rugged basin supports rare plants, Coho, Cutthroat, and Steelhead. Before the area’s protection, the Gasquet-Orleans (GO) Road was planned to connect Hwy. 199 through the South Fork canyon with Hwy. 96 in the Klamath Valley and open the region to heavy logging. The east side of the upper basin now lies in the Siskiyou Wilderness, and the entire South Fork and 17 tributaries are designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers system. Length: 41 miles Average flow: 1,738 cfs Watershed: 292 square miles

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South Fork Smith River in South Fork Gorge, 2 miles upstream of the main stem.

WHERE TO GO

Take Hwy. 199 east from Crescent City to Hiouchi, and just beyond turn right on the South Fork Road and cross the Middle Fork bridge. Five miles of the upper South Fork can be seen from the South Kelsey Trail; take the South Fork Road 13 miles to Big Flat Bridge, go another 4 miles, turn left on Forest Service 15N39, and go to the end. The river is a popular Steelhead and salmon fishery, and resident trout are caught in upper reaches. A number of pulloffs along South Fork Road have paths to the water. During the winter rainy season, and with snowmelt from 5,000foot peaks lasting as late as June, the South Fork offers excellent Class III–V boating. From the fourth South Fork bridge, 13 road miles above Hwy. 199, Class III rapids continue for 12 miles with one III+. This run ends at the Craigs Beach Trail, which climbs to the South Fork Road and a parking lot 2 miles south of Hwy. 199. Visit and flag the takeout first! You must recognize this obscure spot from the river, because below there, a 1-mile section of experts-only Class V rapids roils down to the Middle Fork confluence.

Mill Creek Length: 6 miles (17 with the West Fork) Average flow: 209 cfs Watershed: 37 square miles

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This tributary to the lower Smith joins at Stout Grove in Jedediah Smith State Park. The lower 5 miles drift through

East Fork, Mill Creek, which is being restored after past logging damage.

ancient forest as one of California’s foremost redwood streams. Even with headwaters damage, Mill Creek remains one of the state’s best spawning streams for threatened Coho, and supports an uncommon five species of salmonids. Upper reaches, including the 6-mile East Fork and 11-mile West Fork, were severely logged in the 1960s and are now overgrown with thick mixed conifers. In 2002 the Save the Redwoods League acquired 25,000 cutover acres for addition to Redwood National and State parks, and the basin is on the way to becoming a model of restoration with 1,600 acres reforested, 34 miles of eroding roads removed, and 72 landslides stabilized at last count. Large logs and woody debris have been restored in the water—essential for habitat complexity, pool and riffle formation, and spawning beds. WHERE TO GO

Mill Creek Trail follows the stream’s lower 4 miles through oldgrowth redwoods. This enchanting path can be reached from Howland Hill Road—a dirt route running east from the southern end of Crescent City and linking with the South Fork Smith Road east of Hiouchi. Hidden at the lower end of the creek, a massive logjam, roughly 10 feet high and river-wide, indicates what large woody debris once looked like throughout the big-trees belt of northern California. Beneficial to fish and stream morphology, the big logjams were mostly removed decades ago before their value was realized.

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Klamath River

Epic in the river geography of the West, the Klamath is the second-largest and fourth-longest stream in California counting its Williamson River headwaters; only the Sacramento is larger, while the Pit–Sacramento combination, San Joaquin, and Sacramento are longer. The Klamath carries 18 percent of the state’s discharge. After being dammed five times near the Oregon border, it flows freely for 193 miles to the Pacific. On the West Coast south of Canada, this is the third-largest river and, among major basins, has the most intact forests and undammed mileage. The California portion of the basin has a population density less than that of Idaho or Montana. In Oregon, the Williamson River is the upriver extension of the Klamath, winding for 93 acutely sinuous miles. The river feeds 23-milelong Upper Klamath Lake. Called the Link River where it emerges from a dammed outlet, the Klamath is immediately impounded again by Keno Dam and then J.C. Boyle Dam on its 45-mile route to California. From the Boyle power plant to Copco Reservoir, the river careens with Class V rapids in the 17-mile Hells Corner Gorge—some of the biggest whitewater in the Northwest, though foaming and brown with algae. Four-mile-long Copco Reservoir is followed by 6-mile Iron Gate Reservoir, but then the Klamath sweeps undammed to the Pacific and is continuously runnable by whitewater boaters except for Ishi Pishi Falls. This is one of only three rivers in the West that begins east of the Cascade Mountains and passes through both them and the Coast Range (others are the Columbia and the Pit–Sacramento). Upstream from Weitchpec the river passes through many miles of land traditionally held by the Karuk Tribe, and the lower river wends through the Yurok Reservation and Redwood National Park, where forests are beginning to recover from clear-cutting that predated the park. With no jetty or harbor, the Klamath has the largest natural river mouth on the West Coast south of Canada. Length: 257 miles (212 miles in California; 373 miles with Klamath Lake and the Williamson River) Average flow: 20,520 cfs Watershed: 14,836 square miles

NATURAL HISTORY

Geologically fascinating, Klamath headwaters lie in the volcanic landscape east of the Cascades and remain biologically linked to the Great Basin with fishes native to the ice-age Bonneville Lake. Though the massive Snake River of Idaho now turns north through Hells Canyon to the Columbia, its ancestral route probably reached the Pacific via the Klamath drainage, connecting this river all the way up to today’s Yellowstone National Park. The Klamath was also hydrologically connected to the upper Pit River before lava deposits separated them. After an initial 15 miles below Iron Gate where the Klamath winds from the Cascades to the Klamath Mountains, the river cuts steep canyons 80

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Klamath River, Bluff Creek Rapid, upstream from Weitchpec.

past subranges called the Scott Bar, Marble, Salmon, and Siskiyou mountains. These combined Klamath Mountains include a massive block of marine deposits later intruded with granite, which resists erosion and results in rapids. The river detours left or right as it encounters this and other hard strata, and finally confronts the Coast Range, where it slides 30 miles north along a band of relatively soft mica deposited at the edge of this comparatively new range. The basin’s geologic complexity is evident in river rocks varying from green, blue, black, white, brown, and mottled patterns representing metamorphosed marine sediments, marble, chert, slate, and ocean-basin crusts with serpentinite. All but the highest peaks in these mountains remained untouched by glaciers, and the basin lies at the intersection of several ecosystems, resulting in extraordinary diversity of 53 tree species and 3,500 plants, 280 of them endemic. In 1992 the International Union for the Conservation of Nature named the region one of seven in North America critical for “global botanical significance.” Rich in bird and mammal life, the Klamath has one of the highest densities of Osprey nests that I’ve seen in the West, and I’ve spotted more Black Bears here than along any other river. A tribute to its geographic complexity, the upper Klamath in Oregon sustains populations of the endemic Lost River Sucker, 2 feet long. The similar Shortnose Sucker is found only in the Klamath. West of its Cascade Mountains crossing, the lower Klamath supports 21 native fishes dominated by anadromous species. This was once among the greatest Steelhead and salmon streams on the continent, with Chinook, Coho, Steelhead, and Cutthroat trout of one run or another in the river all year. Chinook migrate upstream in fall and early winter. Steelhead come in late fall, late NORTH COAST

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winter–early spring, and late summer–early fall. The Klamath remains California’s most important Coho and Steelhead stream, and for Chinook it has ranked second only to the Sacramento (whose runs are now in serious jeopardy). Hatcheries at Iron Gate and on the Trinity account for much of the beleaguered Coho population, though the hatcheries ironically threaten native Coho by competition and interbreeding with wild fish. Green Sturgeon migrate up to Ishi Pishi Falls and to Butler Flat on the Salmon River, and the Klamath population is the largest reproducing run in California (Green Sturgeon also spawn in the Sacramento and Oregon’s Rogue River). A small oily smelt called Eulachon was important to the tribes but is threatened today. In upper tributaries, resident Rainbow, Cutthroat, and introduced Brook trout are found. CONSERVATION

All the native Klamath fish populations are just a fraction of what they once were. The upper river is plagued by irrigation diversions decimating local fish including the Blue Chub and endemic suckers, and the stream is overloaded with polluted return discharges from farms and dams that affect fisheries the whole way to the sea. The lower river is diminished by interbasin diversions from the Trinity and scars from past mining and logging. Native wild spring-run Chinook are nearly extinct (hatchery fish remain). Other runs are jeopardized. Nonetheless, the river remains an important fishery for tribes, sport anglers, and commercial fleets along the California and Oregon coasts, where people hope to bring back a viable salmon season.

Wild mouth of the Klamath River, from the northern overlook. 82

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Many anadromous fishes spawn in Klamath tributaries including Bogus Creek; Shasta and Scott rivers; Indian, Elk, and Clear creeks; Salmon River with Wooley Creek; Bluff and Blue creeks; and the Trinity River. The Forest Service found 26 tributaries eligible for designation in the National Wild and Scenic River System; the Eel is the only other river in the state and perhaps nationwide with so many eligible but undesignated tributaries, and the Klamath streams tend to be wilder and more intact. The river is rich in environmental history, and its pending restoration tops the current list of river conservation efforts in California. Further damming below the Shasta River was averted by a statewide initiative in 1924—one of the nation’s earliest political acts to protect a river from dams. Nonetheless, the Bureau of Reclamation in 1964 sought to build Ah Pah Dam—the most mind-boggling of all dam proposals in America. Planned for a record-breaking 813 feet, 12 miles above the mouth, it would have flooded the Klamath for 70 miles and inundated the Trinity and Salmon with a 15-million acre-foot impoundment dwarfing every other California reservoir. Putting this ill-conceived idea to rest, the Klamath’s free-flowing stretch from Iron Gate Dam down was designated a state Wild and Scenic River in 1972. Along with the Salmon, Scott, and Trinity, the Klamath was named a National Wild and Scenic River in 1981. The action banned further damming, though it has not deterred the Bureau of Reclamation’s upper basin withdrawals, and did little to limit effects of widespread suction dredge mining (a temporary statewide ban is in effect as of 2012). The lower river is California’s only major stream with tribal management of fisheries. The lower Klamath has been plagued by reduced flows of the Trinity River following the construction of Lewiston Dam in 1963. The Central Valley Project Improvement Act of 1992 remedied part of this problem by authorizing greater releases for the Trinity. Little, however, was done for the upper Klamath. Manipulation of flows for farms has also severely depleted the Upper Klamath National Wildlife Refuge, vital to 3.7 million waterfowl on the Pacific Flyway. The effects of irrigation withdrawals and dams became starkly apparent in 2002 when an estimated 35,000 adult salmon were killed from diseases stemming from warm water—one of the worst fish kills in California history. Steps by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service had been taken the year before to restore nominal flows for fish; however, after crop losses and rowdy opposition from upper basin farmers, G.W. Bush Administration appointees blocked the releases in 2002 and returned full amounts to the farmers, which was followed by the fish kill. The tribes, anglers, conservationists, and commercial fishermen next sought to eliminate several Klamath hydropower dams owned by Pacificorp. These block 600 miles of spawning streams and create warm reservoirs that incubate a toxic blue-green alga, Microcystis aeruginosa, which causes rashes on contact and when ingested harms the liver. In the reservoirs, the alga’s toxin accumulates to 4,000 times the amount deemed risky to humans, and effects can be seen all the way downstream. As a NORTH COAST

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result of this troubling suite of problems that include agriculture, dams, logging, and mining, Klamath salmon runs have faded to 3 percent of their historic levels, decimating the West Coast fishing industry. After years of negotiation, restoration agreements were reached between Pacificorp, farmers, agencies, tribes, and some environmental groups in 2010. The settlement called for eventual removal of four dams including the 210-foot Copco and the 173-foot Iron Gate by 2020, some restoration of upper Klamath wildlife refuges, and a cap on irrigation diversions. Critics, including The Northcoast Environmental Center, argued that loopholes can enable Pacificorp to keep the dams, that money may not be available to do the work, that irrigation trumps endangered species, and that wetlands essential for migratory birds are foregone while 22,000 acres of National Wildlife Refuge will continue to be leased inexpensively to farmers. Supporters maintained that the agreements improve on the status quo, and they believed that the effort will constitute the largest dam removal and river restoration in history. While dam removal is essential to recovery, the water in the lower Klamath may still be too warm in summer, and additional efforts will be needed to address water quality issues associated with agriculture, logging, and mining. Working on a separate front, the Western Rivers Conservancy plans to acquire 47,000 acres along the lower Klamath and Blue Creek from Green Diamond logging company for protection and sustainable management by the Yurok Tribe. With its size, geographic span, and diversity of life, the Klamath remains unique throughout the West; I consider it the most significant restorable large river in America. WHERE TO GO

The Klamath can be seen by driving Hwy. 96. Occasional paths lead to the water, but no trails follow the shore for long. Dirt roads penetrate tributary canyons—excellent for mountain biking—but trails ascend along the lower reaches of only Portuguese Creek, 3 miles west of Seiad Valley; Fort Goff Creek, 4 miles west of Seiad Valley; and Dillon Creek, 20 miles south of Happy Camp. Though it’s several miles up from the river, the best tributary hiking follows Clear Creek—a fine stream with a summer Steelhead run. It can be seen from a 21-mile-long National Recreational Trail reached from Clear Creek Road; turn west from Hwy. 96 about 7 miles south of Happy Camp. The lower reach of Clear Creek offers Class III paddling in spring. The mouth can be visited by walking down from the east side of the Hwy. 96 bridge. Though hiking to Ishi Pishi Falls is discouraged by Karuk tribal members who use the site for ceremonial purposes, this steep rapid can be seen in the distance from a pullout off Hwy. 96 just north of the Somes Bar Store. At the Klamath’s mouth, a one-of-a-kind walk can be taken on the final sandbar that constricts the outlet; from Hwy. 101 just south of the Klamath River bridge, turn west on gravel road D8 for 3 miles, and walk 84

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north on the beach to the mouth of the river. A sensational view of the outlet can be seen from high bluffs on the north side; from 101, go north of the river 3 miles, turn west on Requa Road, and drive 3 miles to the overlook. Fishing is popular throughout the Klamath. Fall Chinook enter the river in late June and peak in September with crowds of anglers. The Steelhead run spans 9 months—among the longest in America—and peaks October–December. Steelhead fishing remains popular in upper reaches, though toxic algae and the depleted runs have turned this world-class fishery into a limited sporting event. Drift boats are popular among anglers on many reaches. Yurok Indians fish the lower river, especially in the fall. With some major rapids and hundreds of minor ones, the Klamath offers the longest whitewater rafting trip on the West Coast—193 miles with one portage, best done by vehicle. Hwy. 96 deters boaters who prefer wilderness, but much of the road is perched high above and in forest. While homes are scattered, most of the mileage is open space. Inviting campsites and wildlife are all a part of this extraordinary extended trip. Boaters should be aware that Karuk Indians hold ceremonies along the middle river between Wingate Bar (10 miles south of Happy Camp) and Camp Creek, just downstream from Orleans, mid-July to late August. Prescribed sites should be avoided by boaters, even in passing; call Klamath National Forest in Happy Camp for annual details. Though I have had no problems, boaters should also be aware that health risks associated with toxic algae can occur in summer. While the Klamath offers California’s only semiwild river journey of more than 150 miles, trips of all lengths and challenges are possible. From Iron Gate Dam to Fort Goff is 64 miles of mostly Class II water at low– medium levels with an occasional Class III rapid and many access points. In summer, upper reaches are overloaded with algae from the dams, but below the Scott River, tributaries begin to chill the river, and it’s delightful, though still posted with algae warnings after June. From Fort Goff to Thompson Creek, Class III rapids extend for 3 miles followed by 16 miles of Class I to Happy Camp. From Happy Camp to Reynolds Creek, Class III resumes for 36 miles. While none of the river gets heavy use, this is the most popular section, and the Klamath takes on a large feel with powerful hydraulics and huge boulders. Eighteen miles below Happy Camp, and reached only by boat, an outstanding 1-mile scramble can be taken up Ukonom Creek on a difficult unmaintained trail to Twin Falls. Then, 5 miles above the Salmon River, Reynolds Creek access is the last takeout before Ishi Pishi Falls, a long Class VI cataract 4 miles downstream. I have my shuttle driver meet me at Reynolds and take me to the next put-in below the falls; turn west from 96 immediately north of the Somes Bar Store, cross a high bridge (an attraction in its own right, with a view of the Salmon River confluence), and drive down toward the river. The next 6 miles feature the Ikes—three NORTH COAST

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III–IV rapids with massive waves and holes; in high water they present significant dangers and have the power of big rapids in the Grand Canyon. Then 18 miles of Class II–III rapids lead to the Trinity River. With Class I–III water but mostly gentle currents, the lower Klamath’s 37 miles cross Yurok tribal land; boaters should avoid camping on Indian sites, which are just about everywhere. I sleep on my boat or travel straight through. For the first 18 miles below Weitchpec, Rte. 169 is used mostly by Indians; below the village of Johnsons an unroaded reach follows to Hwy. 101. Broad waters, forested mountains of recovering redwoods, cool misty mornings, windy afternoons, and Indian fishermen running motorboats lend an Alaska-like feel. Below 101 the river makes two more bends to the ocean; mandatory takeout is on the right above the final bar. During winter the Klamath swells to torrential floods, and springtime offers truly formidable big water. By July, levels decline but remain powerful. Unlike most California rivers, the Klamath is floatable all year— even in drought—and ample flows of 5,000 cfs often extend through autumn.

Shasta River

Porous volcanic basalt surrounds California’s tallest volcano—Mount Shasta—where snowmelt supplies underground aquifers that later feed the Shasta River in its troubled route to the Klamath. The small springwater stream immediately encounters 3-mile-long Shastina Reservoir. Then it meanders through a sagebrush plain receiving only 14 inches of precipitation a year, and where diversions for pasture and hay withdraw water at 14 low dams and pumping stations. What remains enters a basalt canyon 3 miles north of Yreka and churns 6 miles to the Klamath. For its size, the Shasta was once the most productive salmon stream in the state and one of the Klamath’s prime spawning grounds for Coho, spring Chinook, and Steelhead—100,000 fish—a remarkable producer of food where mostly alfalfa is grown today. Groundwater discharges provided cold steady runoff, and the natural chemical productivity and extensive wetlands made the Shasta the archetypal spring-fed stream, like the classic trout-fishing waters of the Rocky Mountains or the nearby Hat Creek and Fall River. But because of diversions and related warming of water, only remnant runs of salmon and Steelhead survive. Runoff is thick with algae, and portions of the river nearly dry up. Threatened Coho soon may go extinct; in 2010 only nine adults returned, all males. The Department of Fish and Game prepared to issue an “incidental take permit” for ranchers’ irrigation withdrawals and their return of warm water, with requirements for conservation measures, but a coalition led by Klamath Riverkeeper sued the agency in 2009 in an effort to improve the enforceablilty of the requirements. Adding to the river’s problems, Length: 57 miles Average flow: 183 cfs Watershed: 679 square miles

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Shasta River and its depleted flows east of Grenada.

Dwinnell (Shastina) Dam blocks about a fourth of the spawning grounds, and for safety reasons the ailing dam cannot be filled. The river will become especially significant as the climate and streamflows elsewhere warm and fail to support cold-water fish. Mount Shasta is the only place in California where snowpacks and some glaciers are thickening rather than disappearing. This is because the 14,162-foot peak is both high and far enough north to continue accumulating snow rather than rain. If restored, the Shasta River could become a vital source of cold water to the Klamath, a unique cold-water refuge, and a “world class steelhead fishery,” according to biologist Peter Moyle. Ranch-oriented restoration at one Nature Conservancy preserve has improved water quality and fish habitat, pointing the way toward compatibility between ranching and potentially extraordinary fishing. WHERE TO GO

No trails follow along the river, and little public land exists except for the lower canyon. A Nature Conservancy Preserve below Shastina Reservoir can occasionally be visited by appointment; otherwise the upper basin with its spectacular views of Mount Shasta can be seen only from local bridges. To visit the lower canyon, go to Yreka and head north on the Shasta River Canyon Road, notched into steep slopes. To see the confluence with the Klamath, go 3 miles west of Interstate 5 on Hwy. 96. For the lower 7 miles of the Shasta, Schwind in 1974 reported a Class III kayak route complicated by concrete debris, brush, and a low cable. NORTH COAST

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Scott River

The Scott is an important Klamath Basin salmon stream 35 miles west of Interstate 5. Headwaters begin in remote reaches of the Marble and Salmon mountains, followed by winding waters through gold mine tailings and ranchland. The small river finally plunges through a gorge to its confluence with the Klamath. This was once one of the top Coho streams in the Klamath Basin, and some tributaries remain important refuges. The state’s Draft Waterway Management Plan in 1980 warned that, because of sediment from past mining and logging, only a fraction of the historic fish numbers remained. Despite National Wild and Scenic River designation, conditions have only worsened; a study by biologists Robert Van Kirk and Seth Naman revealed that only half the decline in flows since the 1970s is due to less precipitation, and that irrigation has doubled, principally through unregulated groundwater pumping. The river’s chemistry and ecology remain productive, and the stream’s recovery is crucial to the Klamath’s anadromous fishery, but efforts to moderate the depletion have been contentious. Along with the Shasta River, the Scott presents one of the most important but difficult restoration opportunities in the basin. Length: 57 miles Average flow: 899 cfs Watershed: 806 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Views of the lower canyon can be seen along the Scott River Road and at several access sites and campgrounds.

Scott River below Callahan, where degraded salmon habitat can be restored. 88

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Local routes cross the river in the Fort Jones area, and former golddredging sites lie along Rte. 3 north of Callahan. During high runoff, Schwind reported Class I–II runs on the upper reach from Callahan to the Scott River Canyon—34 miles with two portages at low dams, 5 miles of dredge fields, and several fences. A scenic 5-mile Class II–III section (500–4,000 cfs at Fort Jones) follows to Indian Scotty Campground. Then Class IV–V whitewater plunges for 10 miles to Scott Bar, with portage at Boulder Creek Falls half a mile below the campground. Beyond Scott Bar, the lower 4 miles offer a scenic but difficult Class III run to the Klamath.

Elk Creek

This outstanding tributary surges north to the Klamath at Happy Camp and is recognized by the Forest Service as a key watershed for Coho and Steelhead recovery. Headwaters drain the Marble Mountain Wilderness. Partly logged and burned, the watershed is also heavily forested with old-growth conifers and contributes important cold runoff to the Klamath. In the wake of a 2008 fire, the Forest Service intended to log burned acreage of tributary Bear Creek. The plan was waylaid after a Klamath-Siskiyou Wildlands Center lawsuit but reemerged in 2010. To see this stream, turn south from Happy Camp on the Indian Creek Road and drive 5 canyonside miles to a water-level crossing, or 13 miles to the Norcross Trailhead. Here a path follows the creek for several miles and continues to headwaters in the Marble Mountain Wilderness. In high runoff, a few expert kayakers run the 9-mile Class IV+ waterfall-laced reach from Sulpur Springs Campground to the Klamath (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Length: 22 miles Average flow: 347 cfs Watershed: 95 square miles

Salmon River

With wilderness headwaters, crystal-clear pools, and steep rapids, the Salmon is the Klamath’s second-largest tributary, the basin’s last stronghold for wild spring-run Chinook, and a premier run for expert paddlers. The upper North Fork courses 15 miles through the Marble Mountain Wilderness (the entire North Fork is 37 miles long and averages 484 cfs). A narrow road then parallels down to the South Fork. This larger branch begins on high flanks of the Trinity Alps and continues with road access (the South Fork totals 39 miles with 677 cfs). Nearly all the watershed is in Klamath National Forest, though scattered private holdings date to mining claims. Length: 20 miles (59 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 1,798 cfs Watershed: 749 square miles

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Salmon River in its famous whitewater reach below Butler Creek.

The basin’s Marble Mountain (242,500 acres) and Trinity (517,000 acres) Wilderness areas rank among California’s largest, and the South Fork’s headwaters (along with adjacent Grizzly Creek of the Trinity Basin) collect meltwater from the only remnant glaciers in the Coast Range south of the Olympic Mountains. This snowmelt source gives the South Fork a refreshing volume almost the whole way to its headwaters even into July of wet years. Gold miners dredged both forks as well as the East Fork of the South Fork, but the roughshod effects are not as apparent as they are along other mined rivers, and natural flows have prevailed (unlike in the nearby Scott and Trinity). Vivid green-and-white water rushes through gorge-bound rapids interspersed with pools. Riparian vegetation thrives on 80 inches of rain annually. This is the Klamath Basin’s ranking wild Chinook spring spawning run now that the Shasta and Scott rivers have been crippled. The Salmon River is the largest relatively undeveloped Klamath tributary, although the salmon and Steelhead are influenced by strays from the Trinity and Iron Gate hatcheries. The entire main stem is included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System along with the North Fork plus the South Fork below Cecilville. When combined with the Klamath, a contiguous 100-mile reach from the North Fork to the ocean is the second-longest reach protected as Wild and Scenic from source to mouth (the Middle Fork Eel–Eel is longer). WHERE TO GO

The 18-mile Salmon River Road from the Klamath to Forks of Salmon is one of the extraordinary driving experiences along California rivers; not for the fainthearted, 90

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this cliffhanger affords amazing views. Narrow paved roads continue along the steep canyonsides of the North and South forks, with intermittent views of whitewater ranging from Class II to waterfalls. Travel is slow on the acutely winding remote roads, but, to me, it’s one of the epic river-road journeys in California. A number of tributaries have trails; see a map of Klamath National Forest. The Little South Fork Trail leads toward (but doesn’t reach) a dwindling glacier remnant clinging to the north slope of Caesar Cap Peak. Many forest roads are excellent for mountain biking. Though I’ve not yet had the chance to do it, the Salmon–South Fork–Scott River–North Fork Salmon– Salmon loop would make a fabulous extended bike trip with 130 miles of river frontage, dizzying canyon views, two long mountain passes, and many campsites; I think it is probably the finest river-centered extended bike journey in America on paved (though potholed) roads with light traffic. Springtime is beautiful with water running everywhere; summer sizzles. The North Fork, South Fork, and main stem are among California’s prized Steelhead and salmon fishing rivers. With colder water than the Klamath, Steelhead here grow larger. The North Fork has expert Class IV kayaking for 8 miles (800– 1,500 cfs) from Idlewild Campground to Sawyer’s Bar. A Class II–III run for several miles continues to the Little North Fork, followed by 11 miles of Class V. The South Fork has a Class III run from Methodist Creek to the North Fork confluence, and many miles of exquisite and variably runnable and unrunnable water upstream, not mentioned in guidebooks. On the main stem, a Class III section runs from the public school at Forks of Salmon to Nordheimer Campground (mandatory takeout), and a separate Class III length lies on the lower river—2 delightful miles from Brannons Bar to Geary access. But the big run here is the main stem below Nordheimer—one of the premier Class V expert whitewater runs in the nation (500–4,000 cfs at Somes Bar) in an intense 10-mile reach to Brannons Bar, which lies 1.6 miles above Oak Bottom Campground on the Salmon River Road (see Cassady and Calhoun 1995, Holbek and Stanley 1994, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

Wooley Creek

Wooley Creek foams through the Marble Mountain Wilderness—one of few sizable California streams entirely protected as wilderness and one of the largest—and joins the Salmon River 3 miles upstream from the Klamath. The lower 8 miles are designated as a National Wild and Scenic River, and the stream is critical to spring-run salmon and Steelhead. The Wooley Creek Trail starts 3 miles up the Salmon River Road from the Klamath. It first climbs high, in 2 miles descends toward the creek, then ascends the canyon to the headwaters, penetrating Length: 23 miles Average flow: 379 cfs Watershed: 149 square miles

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some of the wildest country remaining in northern California, but lacking a lot of river views (at least on the lower section). Old-growth Douglas-firs crown lush vegetation, including poison oak. A few expert kayakers occasionally hike boats up the trail for an extraordinary Class V run (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

Trinity River

A major California river, the heavily forested, clear-water, canyon-bound Trinity supports salmon and Steelhead along with excellent whitewater boating, and has some wild tributaries. Following a headwaters section reached by a remote road, the upper river is blocked by Trinity Dam, which forms the state’s third-largest reservoir (2.5 million acre feet). Just below, Lewiston Dam diverts more than half the volume by tunnel to the Sacramento. What’s left of the Trinity travels 113 dam-free miles to the Klamath. The basin includes gold deposits found among slate and quartz. Mudstones, sandstones, and metamorphosed greenstones from ancient ocean floors are seen along the river. Below Cedar Flat (40 miles west of Weaverville), the geologic and topographic highlight looms as the Ironside Mountain Batholith—a monumental granite intrusion incised by the severe rapids of Burnt Ranch Gorge. Length: 166 miles Average flow: 4,866 cfs Watershed: 2,969 square miles

Trinity River, with recently restored high springtime flows, below Big Flat. 92

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The Trinity once supported excellent runs of fall- and spring-run Chinook plus Steelhead and Coho; a hatchery at Lewiston now produces Steelhead and fall Chinook. Other fishes include resident Rainbow Trout, introduced Brown Trout, and alien Smallmouth Bass. Chinook spawning waters include the main stem, North and South Forks, New River, and Hayfork and Canyon creeks. Most of the basin lies in the Trinity National Forest, but private tracts and mining claims border the channel in places. Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America lists the Trinity among the state’s 12 most important streams for the conservation of biodiversity, and the reach from Lewiston Dam down is a National Wild and Scenic River. Gold miners excavated more here than along any other river in northern California; massive dredges completely mulched the floodplain above and below Junction City. Logging had devastating effects as well, but the fishery was on the way to recovery when Trinity Dam was built as part of the federal Central Valley Project. Above the dams, 109 miles of main stem and tributary spawning habitat were lost, but even greater harm came with altered flows downstream. Beginning in 1964, up to 90 percent of the water was diverted southward, typically leaving 150 cfs in the onceroaring river. Runs of 19,000–75,500 Chinook were cut by 80 percent. Worse, the morphology of the riverbed became inhospitable to spawning; the lack of flooding led to a berm of silt building up along the shores with thickening mats of vegetation, which further accentuated the levee buildup by trapping more silt. These artificial berms—which can be seen today below the dams and above the North Fork—replaced gravel bars and side channels that had been the most important salmon spawning and rearing habitat. Decades of reform attempts and appeals by the Hoopa Tribe culminated in the Central Valley Project Improvement Act of 1992 and a decision to reinstate 43 percent of the Trinity’s flows. Implementation was immediately blocked by a Central Valley irrigators’ lawsuit, but in 2004 the federal court sided with Hoopa Indians and let the restoration proceed. The Trinity River Restoration Program optimistically aims to reinstate a run of 62,000 wild Chinook. With dam releases that mimic natural floods, this fascinating hydrologic experiment seeks to recreate spawning habitat but at a smaller scale than in the original river. Releases include 1,500 cfs from April to July, with a 4,500-cfs spike in early June, followed by 450 cfs through mid-October. Some of the artificial silt berms below Lewiston Dam have been physically removed by bulldozers. Fixing the river remains a challenge; the program was funded at half the intended level, and Central Valley agribusinesses continued to oppose reforms. WHERE TO GO

Above Clair Engle Reservoir (Trinity Dam) the upper river can be seen from Rte. 3. The major headwaters tributary, Coffee Creek, has a paved and then dusty dirt road running 18 miles to a dead end; a trail up its North Fork includes a beautiful section of trout water starting 2 miles up from Coffee Creek. NORTH COAST

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Below Lewiston Dam, the Trinity is occasionally crossed by back roads for 30 miles. Then a long reach is paralleled by Hwy. 299 with frequent access. No trails parallel the stream, though Forest Service campgrounds and picnic areas from North Fork to Cedar Flat offer places to walk. To see the dramatic Burnt Ranch Gorge, follow a crumbling steep trail down the canyonside from Burnt Ranch Campground, located along Hwy. 299. The grand lower river canyon can be seen at Tish-Tang Campground, 10 miles north of Willow Creek on Hwy. 96. Anglers fish for hatchery Chinook and Steelhead as well as resident Rainbow Trout. Fishing for salmon occurs during two runs, May–June and late summer–October. Stienstra says in California Fishing that the lower river in October has some of the best salmon fishing in California, and he considers the upper Trinity the best shoreline Steelhead angling in the state; 8-pound fish are taken from the small trout stream. Above Clair Engle Reservoir, the Trinity in springtime reportedly has a section of Class III whitewater with one Class IV drop above Bear Creek (600 cfs minimum at the takeout). Start at Tangle Creek and take out at Trinity River Campground (11 miles) or at a bridge near the reservoir (16 miles). Tuthill, in “California Creeks,” calls this one of the finest Class III runs in the state. From Lewiston Dam to the North Fork, Class II water runs for 37 miles, followed by a Class III–IV canyon of 8 miles to Big Flat Campground, especially challenging with turbulent holes during the high-water releases of early summer. Most people float this as a day trip; along with the South Fork American, it’s one of the finest Class III summertime runs in California. A 15-mile reach of Class II–III water continues to Cedar Flat. This mandatory takeout lies just above the Class V Burnt Ranch Gorge, which California Whitewater calls “one of the best expert runs in the Western U.S.” The 47-mile lower reach below Burnt Ranch is one of California’s few canoeable canyons. It begins at Hawkins Bar, off Hwy. 299 about 10 miles southeast of Willow Creek. Class II+ water runs for 14 miles to the Willow Creek airport (500–8,000 cfs at Hoopa). Below, a Class II+ rapid lies 3 miles upstream from Tish-Tang Campground, which has river access. Below there the river eases through the Hoopa Reservation; be respectful of fishermen and avoid camping. Class III Weitchpec Falls, about half a mile above the Klamath confluence, can be portaged on the right. Take out on the Klamath just below the Weitchpec bridge at the first dirt road going left off Hwy. 169. Don’t leave vehicles overnight.

Canyon Creek Length: 23 miles Average flow: 113 cfs Watershed: 64 square miles

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This Trinity tributary flows southward for 20 miles from the Trinity Alps Wilderness. Draining Sierra Nevada–like high country, the creek has far more

Canyon Creek and its granite bedrock below Bear Creek.

boulders and cobbles of white granite than most other North Coast streams, and its headwaters draw from the largest south-facing snowfields in the Trinity Alps, which contribute cold water. A gravel road serving trail users and scattered cabins begins at Hwy. 299 at Junction City (west of Weaverville) and dead-ends 14 miles up the canyon—a fine bike ride with some access to the cascading creek. A trail continues north and crosses beautiful Bear Creek before heading up Canyon Creek 9 miles to popular backpacking destinations among glaciated headwaters. Anglers cast for wild Rainbow Trout. In springtime the 9-mile lower creek is paddled by a few expert Class IV kayakers.

North Fork Trinity River

With tributary Grizzly Creek, which drains the largest glacier remaining in the Trinity Alps, the North Fork contributes essential cold water to the Trinity, which it meets at Pigeon Point, 15 miles west of Weaverville. The entire fork is designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System and supports wild Steelhead. A gravel road extends upstream from Pigeon Point 17 miles to Hebo Gulch, where a trail climbs 9 miles to the confluence with Grizzly and then 8 miles up this wild creek through oldgrowth conifers to Grizzly Meadows at the base of a spectacular 100-foot waterfall. The Grizzly “Scramble” continues to the left of the waterfall as Length: 28 miles Average flow: 288 cfs Watershed: 152 square miles

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Grizzly Creek (North Fork Trinity tributary) at the outlet of Grizzly Lake.

a rough and difficult climb to Grizzly Lake. Runoff comes from a vast snowy basin and the remnant glacier of Thompson Peak—at 9,002 feet the highest summit in the Trinity Alps. From Hobo Gulch down to the Trinity, Holbek and Stanley called the North Fork with its Class V rapids and multiple portages “the steepest and most difficult run in the north coast mountains.”

New River

The New River flows from the Trinity Alps Wilderness to Burnt Ranch Gorge. The stream is designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System, and supports summer Steelhead. Though gold mining degraded habitat, the New River along with the North Fork delivers important cold water to the main-stem Trinity and its beleaguered salmon and Steelhead. The bottom end of this cascading stream can be seen from an overlook on Hwy. 299 a mile northwest of Burnt Ranch Campground. The lower 7 miles have no road access, but Rte. 402, north of Hwy. 299 at Hawkins Bar, leads northeast for 20 miles to Denny Campground and then another 5 miles through the New River valley. From Forest Road 7N15, about 6 miles northeast of Denny, a trail follows the New River to its twin headwaters of Virgin and Slide creeks with old-growth forests. Anglers fish for resident Rainbow Trout. Several Length: 21 miles Average flow: 432 cfs Watershed: 234 square miles

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New River from the Hwy. 299 overlook.

Class IV+ kayak runs with portages are run on the lower stream, and the final reach to the Trinity has Class V rapids with portages; see Holbek and Stanley, and Tuthill, “California Creeks.”

South Fork Trinity River

The South Fork is the longest completely undammed river in California. This largest Trinity tributary begins by flowing west and north through Trinity National Forest to Hwy. 36. Below there the river courses through steep canyons and is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River. Immediately to the west, South Fork Mountain parallels the waterway in a strikingly straight 35-mile ridge marking the fault that separates the Klamath Mountains from the Coast Range uplift. Before heavy logging, the South Fork was a legendary fishery. Clearcutting, roads, fires, and debris flows have since decimated what was California’s champion Steelhead and spring-run Chinook stream; a run of 11,000 fish declined to 350 and sometimes nearly zero, while warming waters have allowed alien Green Sunfish to multiply. The logging was brought to a halt with an important court case that recognized the Forest Service’s obligation to protect salmon-bearing waters. The stream has since recovered to some extent and could again become an important Steelhead refuge if further logging damage is avoided. The South Fork Length: 87 miles Average flow: 1,740 cfs Watershed: 932 square miles

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South Fork Trinity River above Hwy. 36.

represents one of California’s most significant opportunities for restoration of a major stream to near-pristine conditions. WHERE TO GO

The South Fork National Recreation Trail follows the river upstream 15 miles from Hellgate Campground, south of Hwy. 36. Below there, middle reaches have Class V whitewater though multiple portages—reportedly extremely arduous. Tuthill, in “California Creeks,” reports that the bottom 8 miles of the river are Class II.

Home Creek

The smallest stream featured in this field guide, Home Creek runs through the famed Fern Canyon of Prairie Creek State Park. Fern-clad cliffs can be reached via the 4-mile James Irvine Trail beginning at the park visitor center off Hwy. 101. This elegant walk through redwoods climbs gently and then descends into the Home Creek basin, ending with a short loop through Fern Canyon within sound of Pacific surf. For less walking but more driving, take the gravel Davison Road, west of Hwy. 101, for 6 miles to the beach at Gold Bluffs Campground, then walk 1 mile north to Home Creek and Fern Canyon. Roosevelt Elk can often be seen along this route. Length: 2 miles Average flow: 7 cfs Watershed: 2 square miles

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Home Creek in Fern Canyon, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.

Redwood Creek

Undammed and undeveloped except for lower reaches, Redwood Creek winds past some of the tallest redwoods. For years one tree on the floodplain at Grove of the Giants was thought to be the tallest in the world. From Coast Range headwaters the stream flows to Orick and the Pacific Ocean, and its northwest alignment echoes that of other North Coast rivers that follow fault lines. The creek supports Chinook, Steelhead, and one of California’s five best Coho runs, diminished as they all are. After the 1964 flood, 3 miles at Orick were channelized by the Army Corps of Engineers, including the estuary, where important sloughs and salmon rearing areas were cut off from the river. Efforts are under way to remove the lower levee and restore coastal wetlands important to Coho and other fish. In 1968 Redwood National Park legislation protected 12,000 acres in the lower watershed but excluded the rest. While park expansion was hotly debated, redwoods were aggressively logged before further protection took effect. Restoration of the damage was begun with replanting, road retirement, and bank stabilization. Coho habitat now appears to be improving, and river temperatures that had reached 75–82 degrees F in the 1970s have moderated to 68–72 degrees F maximums. The upper basin is still in industrial forest ownership, but the entire watershed could afford an excellent opportunity to restore a vital free-flowing waterway, with potential to bring back not only redwoods and Coho but also the nearly absent Eulachon. Length: 65 miles Average flow: 838 cfs Watershed: 282 square miles

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Redwood Creek upstream from Orick.

WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 101 crosses in Orick with a glimpse of the stream, but most of the national park frontage is accessible only by foot. On Hwy. 101 a mile north of Orick turn east on Bald Hills Road, drive 1 mile, and go right to a trailhead. The path aims upstream for 1.5 miles to a ford, crossable only at low flows (or on a summer footbridge). For 7 more miles the trail passes through dense forest and undergrowth, recrosses the creek, and finally enters the big-trees grove. To reach the creek’s spectacular mouth, turn west off Hwy. 101 just north of the Redwood Creek bridge, follow Hufford Road, and bear left on a potholed lane. A modest Steelhead run has been fished in winter here at the lower creek. Coastal wetlands at the mouth can be seen from the south shore; 2 miles south of Orick turn west off 101 at the visitor center, stroll the boardwalk to a Redwood Creek slough, and continue north across beautiful sandy flats to the outlet. For the middle river, Schwind reported a seldom-run 16-mile Class II paddle from Hwy. 299 to Stover Road, with an intermediate takeout at Bair Road, 5 miles from the start. The next 25-mile section through the big trees can be boated (600–1,500 cfs) but is greatly complicated by restricted access; see Tuthill, “California Creeks.” The first 11 miles pass recovering clear-cuts; the lower section runs through majestic redwoods. This mostly Class II–III run has some Class IV and a requisite difficult waterfall portage, which can become dangerous with high water and log jams. A final Class I+ reach in winter/spring can be run for 3 miles from Hwy. 101 to the mouth and may be the best opportunity to paddle to a Pacific beach (but not into the ocean!). Put-in is possible at a U.S. Geological Survey gauge along Hwy. 101 half a mile north of Orick. 100

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Prairie Creek in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.

Prairie Creek

Flowing through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, 30 miles south of Crescent City, this small waterway offers some of California’s best streamside access to ancient redwood groves. South of the park, Hwy. 101 parallels the stream before it enters Redwood Creek. With virgin forests intact, clean spawning gravels, and no dams, the diminutive Prairie Creek remains one of California’s top Coho salmon streams, and perhaps the most restorable, though its fish suffer from degredation of rearing habitat at Redwood Creek’s estuary. For 9 miles, trails follow or reach near the creek and its tributaries through the park, beginning in the south with the Davison Trail at the Davison Road west of Hwy. 101, followed by a nature trail near the visitor center, and paths upstream. Length: 12 miles Average flow: 138 cfs Watershed: 40 square miles

Mad River

The Mad River is uniquely sandwiched between the ridgeline of South Fork Mountain, which separates it from the South Fork Trinity, and the perfectly paralleling Mad River Ridge, to the west, resulting in the skinniest major watershed in California. The upper river winds through remote private and national forest land, and then Ruth Reservoir impounds 7 miles for Eureka’s water supply. The Length: 111 miles Average flow: 1,247 cfs Watershed: 496 square miles

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Mad River and the remains of Sweasey Dam, breached in 1969.

middle river crosscuts industrial forests of the Coast Range with severe rapids. Below Butler Valley Road the stream continues to Blue Lake, then traverses coastal flats north of Arcata. Like the Eel River to its south, lower reaches erode the soft Franciscan Formation and carry high sediment loads. The final 3 miles are separated from the ocean by only a sandbar— the longest barrier-bar reach of river in California. In the 1970s a dam was proposed at Butler Valley. Citizens won a county referendum against it, but other problems remain. Coho salmon— once a mainstay here and throughout the North Coast—are now threatened by dams, hatcheries, diversions, and sediment from logging, grazing, and roads. WHERE TO GO

The upper river can be seen from Mad River Road, south of Ruth Reservoir, 8 miles above the Hwy. 36 crossing (61 miles east of Fortuna). The lower river can be accessed for fishing from pullouts along Rte. 200 just east of 101. Frontage is largely private except at the mouth. To see a rare example of a barrier-bar river, take the 101 McKinleyville exit and go to Hiller Park, just west of 101, and walk west. Here the river pushes north behind its barrier bar; paths follow bluffs with enchanting groves of shore pines and some of the southernmost Sitka spruce—one 4 feet in diameter. The mouth is an excellent perch fishery in August and September; Stienstra considers this one of the best summer shoreline fishing spots on the North Coast. A state hatchery above Blue Lake raises 102

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Steelhead, Chinook, and Coho for stocking on the lower river; Steelhead draw anglers in winter. Anadromous fish stop at a 25-foot falls near Wilson Creek on the middle river. Resident Rainbow Trout are caught above. Below Ruth Reservoir, Schwind reported an 8-mile Class II reach (400 cfs) in springtime above the Hwy. 36 bridge. A long reach of unrunnable rapids and waterfalls lies below the bridge. A lower, 16-mile reach of Class I–II plus a difficult portage runs from the Butler Valley Road to Blue Lake. For the put-in, go east of Eureka via Myrtle Avenue, Freshwater-Kneeland Road, and Butler Valley Road. Just downstream from the bridge was the proposed site of Butler Valley Dam. In another 3 miles a Class IV rapid is portaged with difficulty over boulders on the left. At about 9 miles the substantial concrete remains of Sweasey Dam can be seen—a historic site in the restoration of rivers. Built in 1938 for Eureka’s water supply, the reservoir rapidly filled with silt. In 1969 the dam was finally blasted apart in one of the first large dam removals in America. Take out at a bridge 0.5 miles south of Blue Lake.

Elk River

Flowing from Coast Range hillsides recovering in second-growth forests and then through dairy pastures and into Humboldt Bay north of the Eel, this small stream remains silty from past logging, roads, and related landslides, but still supports salmon and Steelhead. The 10-mile-long South Fork can be seen from a 6-mile bike trail and footpath leading to a grove of redwoods called Headwaters Forest—site of a heavily contested old-growth battle of the 1980s and now administered by the Bureau of Land Management. Length: 10 miles (20 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 165 cfs Watershed: 57 square miles

Eel River

This fifth-largest California river drains the Yolla Bolly and Coast ranges and flows west and north through a magnificent landscape of forests and oak grasslands. The stream begins in remote country north of Clear Lake. After 20 miles it is impounded, and substantial runoff is tunneled southward to the Russian River. Outlet Creek pours into the river below the dams, and then 40 miles downstream from the diversion, the Middle Fork enters and becomes the default source of much of the Eel’s water. Soon the much smaller 35-mile North Fork joins, and then the valley widens with conifers, oak savanna, and steep grasslands. In sweeping bends the Eel meanders over immense gravel bars past ancient groves in Humboldt Redwoods State Park where the South Fork joins, and then passes logging towns and farms before it enters the Pacific at a broad sandy outlet. Length: 200 miles Average flow: 7,673 cfs Watershed: 3,681 square miles

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The river cuts through rock masses from several terranes that have docked onto the proto-West Coast of the continent. Reflecting this geologic history, the main stem, Middle, and North Forks all curiously begin by flowing south for 10 to 30 miles, much like the Russian River to the south. But responding to the mountains’ seismic rise, the Eel’s forks angle sharply west, then north when they encounter the newly uplifted Coast Range. The wide lower valley was formed through the erosion of soft sedimentary mud deposits. The Eel’s particular latitude makes it vulnerable to storms coming from the northwest but also southwest—the tremendously saturated “Pineapple Express.” The Christmas day flood of 1964 crested at 752,000 cfs—195,000 cfs larger than the Klamath, even though that basin is four times larger and experienced its own record flood the same day. This and a 1955 flood substantially altered the Eel’s channel with an enormous influx of sediment and gravel. Record-breaking runoff eroded slopes that had recently been clear-cut, and plucked stones from landslides and from bank cave-ins. The resulting bed load movement has caused aggradation, or a rising of the riverbed. In the South Fork tributary, Bull Creek, logging resulted in extreme erosion and torrents of mud debris. At Cuneo Creek, just upstream of the current bridge over Bull Creek, the remains of an older bridge nearly buried in alluvial debris illustrates the extent of erosion and bed load buildup that occurred in the wake of steep-slope logging. The 1955 flood uprooted hundreds of redwood trees that had survived on the Bull Creek floodplain for 2,000 years until the era of upstream clear-cutting. Full restabilization of the Eel may require many years for the forest to recover and hold runoff and soil in place, and for the bed load to work its way downstream while the channel is re-formed once again by smaller floods into deep pools and rapids. Because of logging disturbance, and without snowpack on the low coastal mountains, the water level drops sharply when winter rains end, leaving only 1 percent of the Eel’s volume for summer. This makes deep pools all the more critical to fish needing cool water. The wealth of the historic fishery is legendary with 58-inch Chinook. The single haul of a net in the 1800s once collected 4,500 fish—more than the total of all anadromous fish that now return to the entire river system in a year. Historic runs of up to a million fish have been reduced to 3,500 or less (Chinook counts have been as low as five), and biologists Yoshiyama and Moyle projected in 2010 that the Eel’s salmon will be extinct by 2025 if the current decline continues. Only winter Steelhead seemed likely to endure for more than 50 years without a strong program of restoration; the most likely chance for success is in the South Fork. Adding to the salmon’s woes, Sacramento pikeminnows introduced in 1979 found the river hospitable, because its deep pools had been lost to shallow warm waters. The pikeminnows prey on juvenile salmon and Steelhead, and have become a major cause of continuing decline even as watershed conditions start to recover. A few Coho manage to survive in 104

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the South Fork and in the main-stem tributary, Outlet Creek. Resident Rainbow Trout are found in headwaters. Pacific Lamprey were once so common here that Indians caught them by hand as a primary food source. Most of the lamprey’s life is spent in larval form, embedded in riverbottom mud for 7 years before growing into adults and going to sea for 2 years, then migrating back to spawn. Less noticed than the salmon, the lamprey are imperiled even on this river that was named for them (the lamprey were considered eels). The main stem was included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System for 156 miles from Van Arsdale Dam to the Pacific. This designation put to rest a 1960s Bureau of Reclamation proposal for a 553-foot dam 12 miles below Van Arsdale. The Eel is unusual in the wild and scenic system because it’s a large river with 80 percent of its frontage in private ownership. In the public-land portions, the Forest Service has found 26 tributaries eligible for wild and scenic status. Though most frontage remains sparsely settled, scattered rural development has proliferated for 30 years. New residents draw water from surface or underground supplies, further reducing summer flows; increased development is likely. The greatest problem of diminished flows, however, has been headwater diversion. Though the mouths of the Eel and Russian are 200 miles apart, hydropower developers took advantage of the Eel’s initial headwaters’ aim south, and tunneled through Middle Mountain for one mile to shunt water into the Russian. Pillsbury Reservoir stores runoff, and 12 miles farther at Van Arsdale Reservoir the tunnel takes the water out. Pillsbury blocked many miles of Steelhead spawning and rearing habitat, and the diversion takes up to 90 percent of the water, reducing downstream releases in April and cutting summer levels to a 5-cfs trickle. California Trout and Friends of the Eel River sued to prevent even larger diversions from occurring, and in 2006 secured somewhat better flows. Now that diversions from Mono Lake and the Trinity have been addressed, the Eel may be the most flagrant example of damage to a California river through interbasin transfer. Against all odds, over 2,000 Chinook returned to the river in the fall of 2010—the largest run since 1933. The slightly improved releases from upstream dams since 2006 may have helped the fish, and less landslideinduced erosion is reportedly occurring along a riverfront railroad line that has sat unmaintained for a decade and may be abandoned. Some Eel River watchers believe that streambed recovery is under way with more bedrock beginning to show. The returning fish offered hope that river restoration efforts can hasten the recovery of this once-great artery of California. WHERE TO GO

At the mouth, the Eel River Wildlife Area presents a rare chance to walk to the undeveloped outlet of a major river. The site has an expansive beach and massive amounts of driftwood brought to sea level by the river. From Hwy. 101 at Loleta, take Cannibal Road west to the end and walk south. Upstream, the river can be reached at various NORTH COAST

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Eel River between Dos Rios and Alder Point.

points, including Fortuna’s River Walk just west of 101, and especially in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. A mile below the mouth of the South Fork, along the Avenue of the Giants Highway, the short High Rock Trail offers a river view. An adjoining trail follows the Eel for a mile downstream and offers an excellent illustration of ancient forests thriving on riparian floodplains. Tributaries entering through miniature canyons erode sharply into the deep flood deposits of the main stem. Though the fishery has been in serious decline, a catch-andrelease sport season still exists for Steelhead. By midwinter the Eel often clears of silt delivered by the largest storms, and anglers cast from drift boats and from shore. Salmon begin entering the mouth in October during high tides and wait in the lower reach for rain before migrating upstream. On the upper Eel, a difficult 9-mile Class III+ run between Pillsbury and Van Arsdale reservoirs is kayaked on the high waters of springtime and as a rocky technical run later (300–800 cfs). Because of dam releases, this reach has a rare distinction of being runnable in October. Below Van Arsdale, 30 miles offer Class II–III rapids in early spring, but starting in April the diversion reduces the flow. A 17-mile reach from Hearst to Outlet Creek is mostly Class II with one Class III rapid through a wooded canyon, but a suitable level (600 cfs) is rare. To try to estimate flow when it has not rained within 2 days, take the Eel’s flow at Fort Seward, subtract the Middle Fork at Dos Rios, and then divide by two. Only 2 inches of rain here can yield a whopping 20,000 cfs, so watch out! 106

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The classic float on the Eel runs for 46 miles from Dos Rios to Alderpoint, 20 miles east of Garberville, with six Class III rapids (1,000– 3,000 cfs at Fort Seward). This is one of California’s choice multiday river trips without extreme whitewater, and can be combined with 30 miles upstream on the much more difficult Middle Fork. The splendid roadless reach passes through conifers, oak woodlands, and hillside savanna with fantastic rock pinnacles, excellent campsites, and a remoteness uncommon on a large river outside the confines of deep canyons. Beware of rattlesnakes and afternoon headwinds. Ideal for rafts in spring, the water level drops too low in June, though as it drops it turns vividly green and clear. The takeout is on the west side, upriver from the Alderpoint bridge. Shuttles are available in Alderpoint; don’t leave cars overnight. Below there the Class II river traverses mostly wild country for 32 miles to the South Fork. This is one of America’s great multiday canoe trips in late spring–early summer, drifting from oak savanna to redwoods, and with fine campsites, but afternoon headwinds require an adjustment in traveling schedules; paddle early in the day! Above 2,000 cfs, expect powerful surges and eddy lines. At McCann, 8 miles below Eel Rock, a low bridge could require portage in high flows. Take out on the bar just downstream from the South Fork confluence, reached via the Avenue of the Giants Highway. Below the South Fork, the broadening Eel winds 40 miles (Class I–II) to the ocean. In summer, a low bridge at Holmes requires portage, and afternoon headwinds can halt progress. Impressive sandstone cliffs rise below Pepperwood. At Scotia the remains of a once notoriously deadly mill dam can be seen jutting out from the right bank. Vivid mollusk fossils are embedded in the sandstone shoreline on the south side 3 miles below Rio Dell. Then gentle but windy water crosses a coastal plain of dairy farms to the ocean. The final road-accessible takeout is at Cock Robin Island bridge south of Cannibal Road, 1 mile from the sea. Flows in late summer are nominal, but in springtime the Eel offers California’s only opportunity to cautiously canoe on an immense river through a relatively undeveloped valley; the broad gravel bars, cottonwoods, fog-shrouded evergreens, bird life, otters, and seals in the lower miles all characterize this great river drifting toward the sea. The mouth is one of few rivers where you can canoe within sight of Pacific breakers; judiciously paddle downstream a few hundred yards from Cock Robin Bridge and back again.

Middle Fork Eel River

The Middle Fork is undammed and mostly wild through mountains and ranchland, headwaters to mouth. After 6 miles in wilderness, it drops through a 54-mile-long canyon with ponderosa pines, scattered oaks, and vast sweeps of enchantingly beautiful grassland in steep erodible terrain. Length: 70 miles Average flow: 968 cfs Watershed: 754 square miles

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Middle Fork Eel River below Coal Mine Falls.

The river supports winter- and spring-run Chinook, resident Rainbow Trout, and California’s largest remaining run of spring-run Steelhead, though all anadromous fish are grossly reduced from historic levels. Bald Eagles winter here and Peregrine Falcons nest in the canyon. The Middle Fork–main-stem Eel combination flows for 189 dam-free miles to the Pacific—the third-longest undammed reach in California. From the Yolla Bolly Wilderness boundary to its confluence at the main Eel, the Middle Fork is included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. Counting the upper wilderness reach, the Middle Fork–Eel combination is the longest free-flowing stream anywhere protected in the Wild and Scenic System from source to mouth and from source to ocean. The river is also an important landmark in the environmental history of California. In 1968 the state Department of Water Resources and Army Corps of Engineers agreed that the Corps would build Dos Rios Dam, 730 feet tall and holding an enormous 7.6 million acre-feet. This would flood Round Valley, including Indian lands and most of the wild Middle Fork. Water would be diverted by tunnel to the Sacramento Basin and southward. Rancher Richard Wilson led an effort to halt the dam, and in 1972 Senator Peter Behr’s State Wild and Scenic Rivers Act designated the Middle Fork and other rivers in a protected program. In 1981 the Middle Fork became a National Wild and Scenic River as well. 108

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In 2006 the tributary Black Butte River was also designated in the National Wild and Scenic System for 23 miles from headwaters to mouth, as was its tributary, Cold Creek, for 5 miles. These remote streams provide some of the Middle Fork’s best spawning habitat for Chinook and Steelhead. Black Butte can be seen at its mouth east of Covelo; Cold Creek can be seen at its headwaters south of the Plaskett Campground via long dirt roads in Mendocino National Forest. WHERE TO GO

The Middle Fork can be seen at Dos Rios; from Laytonville on Hwy. 101, turn east on the Laytonville-Dos Rios Road and go 10 miles. The upper river can be seen at the Black Butte River, 11 miles east of Covelo, and the Travelers Home National Recreation Trail offers distant glimpses of the wild Middle Fork above the Black Butte confluence. Nearby trails reach headwaters, but lower reaches have no hiking access. The Middle Fork’s 30-mile whitewater run from Black Butte to Dos Rios is a classic California springtime river trip with rapids, sandbars, and deep pools (800–2,000 cfs), though it’s not heavily visited because of its remoteness, short season, and required portage. Much of the run is Class II and III, but there are several Class IV rapids, plus the hazardous Coal Mine Falls—a boulder sieve where most boaters carry. Though the river flows through Mendocino National Forest, much frontage is private. Put in at the Forest Service Black Butte River campground; take out on the left bank just downstream from the Middle Fork bridge in Dos Rios. This exquisite 3-day trip can be combined with the main Eel from Dos Rios to Alderpoint, making a 76-mile expedition of a week. Though it has its complications of difficult water, a portage, headwinds, and long shuttle, this is one of the best extended river trips statewide.

South Fork Eel River

This is California’s longest river flowing through redwoods. Headwaters begin in the Coast Range southwest of Laytonville and flow north in mostly wild mileage to Leggett. Then, sharing its valley with Hwy. 101, the river runs through California’s most extensive stands of redwood trees. Centerpiece is Humboldt Redwoods State Park where the river runs for 32 miles; 17,000 acres of old-growth include the Rockefeller Grove along tributary Bull Creek, which has more trees over 350 feet tall than anywhere. Though little traveled, the South Fork in springtime offers one of California’s finest extended canoe trips. Bounded by low mountains that get little snow, the river rises and falls with winter rains; normal high runoff of 2,000 cfs shrinks to a trickle of 50 cfs in late summer. This is the Eel basin’s leading producer of Chinook Length: 107 miles Average flow: 1,874 cfs Watershed: 724 square miles

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South Fork Eel River and Steelhead anglers.

and Coho, though the runs are just a shadow of past abundance. Winter Steelhead do somewhat better. Other fishes include an occasional Chum Salmon and Pacific Lamprey, along with a few roaming Green Sturgeon and Shad in lower reaches. The South Fork is a National Wild and Scenic River for 101 miles from near Branscomb down. With much of its forest corridor above Leggett reasonably intact, and some tributaries offering shade and clean water, the South Fork has the best potential for recovery in the Eel basin if restoration programs aimed at improving tributary spawning streams are undertaken. WHERE TO GO

Wild upper reaches of the river can be seen along the Branscomb Road, west of Laytonville, and on public trails at the University of California’s Angelo Coast Range Reserve; from Hwy. 101 in Laytonville turn west on Branscomb Road, go 13 miles to Branscomb, and in another three miles turn right on a paved road, go right on Wilderness Road for 4 miles, cross the South Fork, and park at the reserve headquarters on the right. Along the lower South Fork, many excellent forest paths lead to the river from pullouts along Avenue of the Giants Highway in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The River Trail parallels the South Fork 110

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for 4 miles on its west side from Bull Creek south to Burlington Campground, passing through grand floodplain forests but lacking views of the river. Footbridges with river access are erected in summer at Bull Creek, the Burlington Visitor Center south of Weott, and the Williams Grove 1 mile north of Myers Flat. Upstream, Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area has 2 miles of frontage, and Richardson Grove State Park has a summer bridge that crosses to stately coast live oak groves among redwoods on the east shore. At low flows toxic blue-green algae or cyanobacteria infests the water; avoid swimming and keep dogs out of the water in late summer. Steelhead fishing is popular in winter, especially after runoff begins to subside and the river turns blue-green. Access is plentiful with private and public recreation sites. Shorelines are fished upstream to Leggett, and drift boats are used in mid- and lower reaches. Trout, salmon, and Steelhead are all catch-and-release; Sacramento pikeminnows should be kept. Always check fishing regulations, which are adjusted with changing conditions. The upper South Fork from Branscomb to Big Bend has a deeply forested, experts-only, Class IV+ whitewater reach sometimes requiring a portage, runnable with winter rains. Put in on Ten Mile Creek to avoid the portage and have an easier shuttle (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). From Leggett to the main stem, the South Fork courses through a 64-mile forested valley offering excellent Class I, II, and some III paddling in the rainy season (500–1,400 cfs at Leggett), often runnable until June. From a roadside access at the Smithe Redwood Grove, 2.6 miles below Standish-Hickey State Park, the river has lively Class II+ rapids to Piercy (upstream at Standish-Hickey, access is gated until summer). Below Piercy a low-water bridge requires portage; another lies above Benbow Lake State Park. The seasonal 15-foot Benbow Dam 5 miles above Garberville is not installed until summer; in winter and sometimes year-round, the river runs through the open dam (Class II). Below Benbow, the river eases to Class I–II. The South Fork is the boaters’ criterion redwood tour of California, passing through ancient groves at Standish-Hickey, Richardson Grove, and Humboldt Redwoods state parks. Enchanting spots include the bends below Benbow, tall groves behind gravel bars at Eagle Point (above Myers Flat), and the entire Humboldt Park passage. Though traffic pounds on Hwy. 101 nearby, many sections are buffered, and this is one of the longest seminatural canoe trips in the state. Access is available at Smithe Grove, Richardson Grove, Benbow, west of Garberville, plus Lansdale Bar, Williams Grove, Burlington, Gould Bar, Bull Creek, and Dyerville (acquire a Humboldt State Park map). A fine gravel bar for takeout lies above the lowest 101 bridge near the mouth, reached from the Avenue of the Giants via a lane to the west. The run from Smithe Grove can be combined with 40 miles of the main Eel, which offers remarkable contrast of immense springtime flows, for a superb expedition of 102 miles to the ocean. NORTH COAST

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Van Duzen River

This major Eel tributary drains the northern portion of the basin and enters the main stem 3 miles upstream from Fortuna. The watershed is heavily logged and grazed but largely undeveloped, with wild mountain country and steep slopes annually prone to mudslides. Remote headwaters among conifers and oaks drop to a lower valley with redwoods at Grizzly Creek State Park and at Van Duzen County Park below. The river has struggling but surviving runs of summer Steelhead and Chinook, along with resident Rainbow Trout in upper tributaries. From Dinsmores Bridge (about 23 miles from the headwaters) to the mouth, 48 miles are designated as a National Wild and Scenic River. Length: 74 miles Average flow: 1,244 cfs Watershed: 429 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The best place to see the river is Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park, 22 miles east of Fortuna via Hwy. 36, which otherwise has surprisingly few views of the stream. Here the Fisher Wolk Trail follows the river for a half mile, and in summer a footbridge below Grizzly Creek crosses the Van Duzen to redwood groves. The old-growth of Van Duzen County Park lies 5 miles downstream. To protect Steelhead, fishing is prohibited from Eaton Falls downstream to Bridgeville, but resident trout are caught above the falls. Grizzly Creek is a fine put-in for a Class II+ trip, running III at high water. After 1.5 miles of rapids the gradient eases to Class II for another 4 miles to Van Duzen Park. To skip the larger

Van Duzen River at Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park. 112

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rapids, put in below Grizzly along Hwy. 36. This reach offers the North Coast’s clearest illustrations of riverbank landslides and the erosive nature of Franciscan Formation geology combined with the effects of watershed disturbance from logging. Below the county park, Schwind listed Class I+ boating, but I failed to find any access areas above the main stem.

Mattole River

An isolated river of the North Coast, the Mattole runs undammed entirely within the Coast Range and winds out to sea at an undeveloped beach 25 miles south of the Eel River. The mouth is one of the most magnificent in California but lacks the wetland sloughs and estuarine habitat once present and still needed by rearing Coho salmon. Headwaters start within a few miles of the Pacific, but the river wraps northward around the King Range. Kings Peak’s 4,087-foot rise within 3 miles of the ocean is the second-steepest climb to a summit along the Pacific south of Canada (Big Sur’s Cone Peak is higher). The basin gets up to 200 inches of rain a year, making it one of the wettest watersheds in California. This is the largest river flowing entirely in the Coast Range without drawing water from older subranges to the east. Earthquakes have heavily fractured the basin, and the San Andreas Fault lies just offshore. Only 12 miles to the north, and south of diminutive Bear River, Cape Mendocino is the site of the seismically monumental triple junction: the San Andreas Fault veers out to sea, and the Pacific, North American, and Gorda plates Length: 71 miles Average flow: 1,314 cfrs Watershed: 297 square miles

Mattole River in its isolated valley below Honeydew. NORTH COAST

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converge. The wildest Pacific shoreline in the United States outside Alaska extends south from the mouth of the Mattole for 70 miles. The river’s Chinook, Coho, and Steelhead have suffered all the usual problems of habitat destruction through logging of 90 percent of the basin, road building, and siltation. Chinook runs of 100,000 fish plummeted to 7,400 in 2004. The Coho could be at the brink of extinction; three fish were counted in 2010. Intensive restoration efforts have been waged by the Mattole Restoration Council, Mattole Salmon Group, and Sanctuary Forest. Though the forests have begun to recover, the river now faces severe low-water problems related to rural population growth, which started with the back-to-land and marijuana-growing boom of the 1970s. Flows in 2008 were the lowest ever, and 7 of the previous 9 years all ranked among the lowest in 57 years. Sanctuary Forest implores residents to conserve water and curtail pumping, and made 50,000-gallon home storage tanks available to collect rainwater. WHERE TO GO

The river is reached by turning west off Hwy. 101 in Humboldt Redwoods State Park and negotiating a twisting road over the Coast Range to Honeydew, or by driving west from Garberville and Redway on Thorne Road and then the Ettersburg-Honeydew Road—all tortuous routes. From Honeydew to the ocean the narrow byway offers wonderful views of the valley. Because land is privately owned, the only hiking is at the ocean. From a Bureau of Land Management campground, a spectacular half-mile beach walk takes you to the river’s mouth. Anglers fish for Steelhead in lower reaches; late winter is often best (the mouth is closed to fishing, and regulations change with water level). During the rainy season and sometimes extending through spring, the Mattole has been canoed for 38 miles from Ettersburg to the Petrolia bridge, 6 miles from the sea (450 cfs). The upper 18 miles from Ettersburg to Honeydew traverse remote forest where the Class II run reportedly has two Class III drops (see Schwind, West Coast River Touring, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). The lower 20 miles from Honeydew to Petrolia bridge are Class I–II through a charming rural landscape. Inquire about the put-in with a purchase at the Honeydew store.

Noyo River

This river begins on Mendocino Ridge, west of Willits, and twists through the wooded tangle of coastal mountains to Fort Bragg. The area has been heavily cut, but second- or third-growth forests are growing tall, giving the corridor a deeply shaded feel. Some Steelhead survive, and the river supplies water to Fort Bragg. Length: 34 miles Average flow: 187 cfs Watershed: 113 square miles

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Noyo River and its riparian forest 3 miles upstream of Fort Bragg.

Half the watershed is owned by the forest industry including the Mendocino Redwood Company, which is well regarded for addressing watershed, wildlife, and ecosystem concerns. The company also owns land along the Big, Navarro, and Garcia rivers. As a result of reforms in the state Forest Practices Act and improved management, forests along the Noyo and other North Coast rivers are beginning to recover from clear-cutting as old-growth conditions evolve once again within 150-foot-wide riparian buffers and as old logging roads are closed. Just south of the Noyo, in Russian Gulch State Park, an excellent 2-mile trail leads up one of the best-protected small coastal streams to an elegant waterfall. The gulch’s mouth is one of the best protected coves for paddling in the ocean. WHERE TO GO

Remote reaches of the Noyo can be seen from 14 bridges between Fort Bragg and Northspur on the Skunk Train, run out of Fort Bragg for tourists. Paddlers can take inflatable kayaks upriver by train and be picked up at lower stations. Contact the Skunk Train ahead of time for arrangements. According to Schwind, the only road access involves a difficult fourwheel drive route to Northspur; from Hwy. 20 about 8 miles west of Willits he took Irmulco Road north for 7 miles of rough travel. From there to Fort Bragg he reported a 21-mile Class II–III springtime float with a least one portage and log hazards. Much easier, the lower river can be seen by paddling upstream from the south side of the Fort Bragg harbor for several NORTH COAST

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tidal miles, starting in town but soon entering a forest corridor with seals and abundant bird life. Plan your trip with the tides.

Big River

This undammed stream sweeps from the Coast Range divide northwest of Ukiah to Mendocino in cutover forests recovering with second-growth, and through one of California’s longest estuaries. Coho and Steelhead spawn in tributaries, and the canyonlike course provides excellent rearing habitat. In one of the outstanding river conservation accomplishments of recent years, the lower corridor was bought from industrial forest companies by the Mendocino Land Trust and others and became the 7,334-acre Big River State Park in 2002. Length: 42 miles Average flow: 323 cfs Watershed: 182 square miles

WHERE TO GO

An excellent hike or bike ride can be taken from a parking lot below and east of the Hwy. 1 bridge at Mendocino for 8 miles along the abandoned Big River Haul Road. Back at the mouth, a stroll from the Hwy. 101 bridge offers an excellent view of the stream meeting the sea. Schwind reported a challenging trip of 40 miles from the South Fork to Mendocino during spring rains. He took the dirt Orr Springs Road west from the northern end of Ukiah and put

Big River east of Mendocino, protected as a state park in 2002. 116

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in at a South Fork bridge 20 miles from Hwy. 101. In 13 miles the South–North Fork confluence marks the beginning of the main stem. With brush, low water, tight Class 2+ bends, and portages over logs, Schwind’s adventurous 29 miles to the Little North Fork were followed by 11 mostly tidal miles. The lower reach offers some of California’s finest tidal-river paddling year round. Park at the Hwy. 1 bridge and paddle on an incoming tide for 8 miles. The estuarine waterway narrows to an intimate passage through recovering forests where otters are often seen. Beware of getting caught in mud behind an outgoing tide. Immediately south of Big River, the Little River enters the ocean in an exquisite cove with sea caves and marine life at Van Damme State Park, and offers an unusual opportunity to paddle in a river-mouth cove of the sea (inquire with local guides).

Albion River

The short Albion eases from the Coast Range to the Pacific 7 miles south of Mendocino. Undeveloped industrial forest land is recovering from heavy cuts of the past. Coho and Steelhead spawn in tributaries, and Great Blue Herons, Ospreys, cormorants, grebes, mergansers, and kingfishers can be seen. In 2003 a bizarre proposal surfaced to capture the river’s discharge in giant bags and tow them south for sale. In response, 3.5 miles of the Length: 18 miles Average flow: 54 cfs Watershed: 43 square miles

Albion River estuary 1 mile from the ocean. NORTH COAST

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lower Albion were designated as a State Wild and Scenic River to block the plan. The lower 3 miles are tidal and can be paddled upstream from two commercial campgrounds under the Hwy. 1 bridge (fees). From Hwy. 1 turn east on the north side of the bridge. This is my favorite coastal estuary, with Douglas-firs, grand firs, and redwoods in a fjordlike setting lending a British Columbia-type rainforest atmosphere. Seals and waterfowl bob in eelgrass, and floodplain meadows are lush with willows.

Navarro River

Beginning at the confluence of Anderson Creek and the 37-mile-long Rancheria Creek northwest of Boonville, the Navarro glides to the Pacific 10 miles south of Mendocino. The upper watershed has been developed into vineyards; below, the river winds through recovering redwoods and Douglas-firs with Coho and Steelhead habitat. This North Coast gem is deeply forested, and the frontage is mostly unroaded from Hendy Woods State Park to the ocean. Navarro Redwoods State Park protects 8 miles of waterway. Length: 28 miles (65 with Rancheria Creek) Average flow: 473 cfs Watershed: 315 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The upper river and its redwoods can be seen from trails in Hendy Woods State Park. The lower river lies in Navarro Redwoods State Park, which has paths along Hwy. 128 and at

Navarro River at Navarro Redwoods State Park. 118

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Dimmick Campground, 8 miles east of Hwy. 1. At one of California’s more spectacular river mouths, you can beach-walk among giant driftwood; turn west from Hwy. 1 on the south side of the river. Steelhead can be caught in winter in the lower river and are sometimes seen at Dimmick. A splendid 16-mile Class I+ trip on springtime runoff (300– 2,000 cfs) goes from Hendy or the nearby Greenwood Road bridge near Philo to Dimmick Campground. Take Rte. 128 from Cloverdale to Philo and then another 3 miles to the Hendy picnic area. Sandbars are excellent for camping. Recovering redwood forests line this route, which I regard as California’s finest Class I+ overnight river trip for canoeists. Another 6 miles of Class I continue to a takeout on the left a few hundred yards before the ocean, making a 22-mile trip after spring rains. Upstream, the Navarro’s major tributary, Rancheria Creek, makes an excellent and well-known 13-mile Class II+ trip in the rainy season (300– 2,000 cfs; estimate 30 percent of Navarro gauge). Schwind considered this wilderness run a rare gem with rapids and gorges. He took Hwy. 128 west from Cloverdale to Boonville, went west on Mountain View Road and proceeded 4.5 miles to the Rancheria bridge. Takeout is on the Navarro at Hendy Woods State Park; visit and mark this spot ahead of time, as the park will not likely be identified from the water. The run can be combined with the Navarro for a choice 35-mile springtime trip. Another Class II–III reach reportedly lies above (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

Garcia River

Rising among the logged and grazed hills of the Coast Range, the Garcia reaches the ocean at Point Arena. For 12 miles the lower river follows along the San Andreas Fault before turning west for its final 6 miles. This and the neighboring Gualala are the most notable rivers to flow directly on the famous fault line (the much smaller and dammed West Union, Stevens, and Los Gatos creeks also follow the fault in the South Bay). The west side of the Garcia valley is seismically moving northward on the Pacific Plate, while the east side lies on the North American Plate. During the 1906 earthquake the west side of the valley moved 15 feet downstream (northwest) relative to the east side. The small river has residual but threatened runs of Coho and some Steelhead, and it is curiously one of few California streams where Pink Salmon are found. Threats to the fish now include increasing diversions for vineyards. Length: 36 miles Average flow: 182 cfs Watershed: 114 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Private land leaves few opportunities to access the river, though it can be seen at Mountain View Road, east of Hwy. 1 near Point Arena. To reach the mouth from Point NORTH COAST

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Arena on Hwy. 1 drive north about 4 miles, turn west on Stoneboro Road, go to the end, walk half a mile to the beach and then south for a mile to the sizable estuary. Steinstra reported that Steelhead can be caught near the mouth in January–February at high tides when they enter the stream. Paddling this Class I river is difficult because of private access, wind, and shallows, but a takeout is possible on the south side of the Hwy. 1 bridge.

Gualala River

The Gualala’s North, Wheatfield, and South forks gather from minor heights of the Coast Range west of Cloverdale and reach the ocean at picturesque Gualala village. The principal stream here is the South Fork, which starts only 4 miles from the sea but then flows parallel to the shore and virtually on top of the San Andreas Fault for 30 tightly meandering miles northwestward—much like the Garcia, only longer. The Gualala supports small runs of fall- and winter-run Steelhead and Coho salmon, though the Coho are almost extinct with problems ranging from post-logging silt to diversions for vineyards. Resident Rainbow Trout populate some upper reaches. Along with the Albion, the Gualala’s estuary was threatened by the “big bag” water export scheme. To stop this imaginative interbasin transfer, 11 miles of the lower river were added to the state Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 2003. Length: 3 miles (34 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 398 cfs Watershed: 299 square miles

Gualala River, along the San Andreas Fault, below the Wheatfield Fork confluence. 120

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WHERE TO GO

A beautiful view of the river’s mouth can be seen in Gualala Point County Park, where you can beach-walk for a mile between the river and ocean. At low tide the river knifes through deep sandbars that are rebuilt when the tide returns. From Hwy. 1 go south of Gualala 2 miles and turn west into the park (fees), or park outside and walk in. The river and fault line can be crossed on bridges at Stewarts Point Road, 3 miles east of Stewarts Point, and at Annapolis Road, east of Sea Ranch airport. For geology buffs, the west side of the valley is the Pacific Plate, and more specifically the Salinian block, which has drifted many miles north on the seaward side of the San Andreas Fault. The Franciscan formation’s highly erodible amalgam of sandstones, siltstones, chert, and serpentinite lie east of the river on the North American Plate. However, from the river it all simply looks riparian. Steelhead anglers flock to the lower Gualala; from town, go east on Old Stage Road and turn right on Gualala Road. The upper limit for fishing is Annapolis Road. A 9-mile Class I (300–1,200 cfs) reach begins at Annapolis Road and ends just below the Hwy. 1 bridge on the north side, reached by a gated lane. Done on high water during the rainy season and in the morning before winds kick up, this is a nice forested canoe run for beginning and intermediate paddlers. Tuthill (“California Creeks”) and Schwind (West Coast River Touring) identify several other winter runs on Gualala forks.

Russian River

The Russian flows south from its source between the Coast Range uplift and the North Coast’s interior mountains near Willits, and the valley follows a fault line parallel to the San Andreas though well east of it. The river aims directly toward San Francisco Bay for 80 miles but then veers west at Healdsburg and cuts through a gorge populated with old resorts and redwood-shaded cottages in the Coast Range’s Mendocino Mountain province. At Jenner, the Russian takes its last turn through a broad sandy beach. As geography suggests, the river was probably once connected to the Sacramento Basin via San Francisco Bay, presumably through Sonoma Creek; nine of 20 native fishes in the Russian are also found in the Sacramento. This biological linkage could also date to Clear Lake’s ancient overflow into the Russian basin (see Cache Creek of the Sacramento Basin). For decades the Russian has been augmented by transfers from the Eel River for hydropower. The river has a history of flooding, and in 1986 carried a torrential 102,000 cfs. Length: 115 miles Average flow: 1,647 cfs Watershed: 1,479 square miles

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Russian River in its popular recreation reach near Guerneville.

Historically a cherished sport fishery, the Russian drew anglers worldwide. Owing to pollution, silt from logging, diversions, development, and vineyards, the river’s wild fish are now imperiled. This was once the state’s third-most productive Steelhead river (behind the Sacramento and Klamath), but despite a new hatchery, that fishery has declined since the construction of Warm Springs Dam on Dry Creek and the older Coyote Dam on the upper river. The Russian has also become known for excessive gravel mining; floods in 1995 and 1997 broke through levees only perilously separating gravel excavations from the channel, and the water filled the pits, severely altering stream morphology. Wild Coho have been depleted even more than Steelhead, but in 2006 these fish spawned in Austin Creek, 8 miles up from the mouth. The Russian remains popular for fishing, and is the most-used canoeing and swimming river in California—local and Bay Area crowds flock to its shores in summer. WHERE TO GO

An ocean-edge walk can be taken to the mouth; from the Hwy. 1 bridge drive south half a mile and turn into Goat Rock Beach Regional Park (fees). The tidal Russian is one of the most beautiful coastal rivers, with steep slopes of grass and recovering woods. If you’ve missed the morning calm for canoeing, take a mountain bike up the Willow Creek Road; just south of Hwy. 101 turn east and go a quarter mile, unload at the state park lot, and bike upriver to a campground or up Willow Creek several miles for a traffic-free tour of a rare, undeveloped lowland coastal stream. 122

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Though this river’s glory days of salmon and Steelhead are over, anglers fish for hatchery runs of winter Steelhead, October–April, and American Shad migrate upriver April–May (barbless hooks are required, and no salmon may be kept). Bass are caught in summer. The Russian attracts droves of canoeists because of its relatively easy water, year-round runoff, and liveries with rental craft. Fees are required at most access areas; expect crowds on summer weekends. For local liveries and shuttles, see River’s Edge Kayak and Canoe, Get Away Adventures, SOAR boat company, and Burke’s canoes. At the upper river, Hopland to Cloverdale is a 13-mile reach (Class I–III) with a difficult big plunge at Squaw Rock, seen from a pulloff on Hwy. 101 southbound. The Hopland access is at the Rte. 175 bridge. From Cloverdale to the Alexander Valley bridge, a popular 17-mile (Class I–II) reach can be run (500–1,500 cfs at Healdsburg). To put in at Cloverdale’s River Park, take the Cloverdale/128 exit from 101 and go east on McCray Road. A more scenic 14-mile (Class I–II) reach from Alexander Valley to Healdsburg offers swift water but no major rapids, excellent birding, little development until Healdsburg, wide gravel bars, and redwoods. To reach the put-in from Healdsburg, drive 4 miles north on Healdsburg Avenue, turn right on Alexander Valley Road, and go 2 miles to the RV park. The takeout is at Veterans Memorial Beach; from 101 northbound take the Healdsburg Avenue exit and go a mile to the park, on the left (River’s Edge livery sits on your right). Below the mandatory left-side portage around a dangerous rock dam at Memorial Beach, the river is boatable (Class I+) to the Pacific with an inflatable dam sometimes requiring portage 10 miles down, just past the Wohler Bridge, plus a few lower temporary dams to portage in summer. Expect strong headwinds 8 miles south of Healdsburg where the Russian turns decidedly west. Two miles beyond Wohler, Steelhead Beach is a popular access: from the Hwy. 101 downtown Healdsburg exit take Westside Road west for 10 miles to Wohler; in another 4 miles turn left on River Road to Steelhead Beach. Through these sections, the riparian corridor is surprisingly natural considering the solid coverage of vineyards just above the floodplain. From the south, take Hwy. 101 north from Santa Rosa 5 miles to River Road exit, go west 6 miles to Riverfront Regional Park, or 8 miles to Wohler, or 9 miles to Steelhead Beach. Five miles east of Guerneville, Sunset Park has half a mile of floodplain trails, and in central Guerneville, beach access is free. For access to the lower river, go to Monte Rio Beach Park; from Guerneville drive west on Hwy. 116 about 5 miles and turn left on the Bohemian Highway. Three miles below there, tides reach up to Austin Creek (8 miles above the mouth). Above the mouth, Sonoma Coast State Beach’s Willow Creek access is on the left upstream from Hwy. 1; going south on 101, cross the bridge, turn left, and go a quarter mile. Access is also possible in Jenner at the state park visitor center; sandy beaches downstream might be closed for seal pupping. NORTH COAST

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Lagunitas Creek

Lagunitas is the principal freshwater source of Tomales Bay, the best remaining Coho Salmon stream from Marin County south, and a surprisingly natural waterway through redwoods at the edge of America’s fourthlargest urban area. The swift creek begins on the north slope of local landmark Mount Tamalpais and then cuts east of Bolinas Ridge. Four Marin County reservoirs tap runoff and block half the spawning habitat. Remaining flows continue to support imperiled Coho, though their population has declined radically in recent years despite restoration work done since the 1980s. Lagunitas also provides for a rare freshwater shrimp and for Steelhead, which enter from Tomales Bay after the first fall storms. Coho survive, but barely, in two tributaries: Olema and San Geronimo creeks. The stream can be seen from trails at Samuel P. Taylor State Park along Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, 9 miles west of Fairfax. In December–January, Lagunitas is one of the best places in California to see spawning Coho; go to the state park and also to the Leo Cronin Viewing Area on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard 8 miles west of Fairfax, just west of Shafer Bridge. A fire road here allows for walking along the creek. Brush and logs make boating nearly impossible, and access closures for salmon would limit boating as well. Length: 24 miles Average flow: 98 cfs Watershed: 105 square miles

Lagunitas Creek and its Coho Salmon habitat at Samuel P. Taylor State Park. 124

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Redwood Creek

Unique in the San Francisco Bay area as a seminatural stream with public access throughout, Redwood Creek begins on the south flanks of Mount Tamalpais, then flows 2 miles through ancient redwoods in Muir Woods National Monument before reaching Muir Beach in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Trickling flows in summer swell to floods during winter storms. Threatened Coho, Cutthroat, and Steelhead all spawn and rear in this tiny stream and estuary, and the fish used to be seen migrating after fall rains breach the sandbar at the mouth. However, no Coho appeared in the 2007–2008 season, and only 45 returned in 2009. The loss of rearing habitat was identified as a key problem, and the National Park Service and Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy rushed to reinstate large woody debris and recreate wetlands in a $13 million restoration effort. Returns in 2010 were better, but these fish, in one of the California’s most-visited salmon creeks, could become California’s next anadromous run to go extinct. Length: 5 miles Average flow: 9 cfs Watershed: 9 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The Bootjack Trail follows the stream from its headwaters below the Mountain Theater in Mount Tamalpais State Park down to Muir Woods, where old-growth redwoods tower over the stream and its tributary, Fern Creek. Below Muir Woods the Redwood Creek Trail, popular with walkers and equestrians, continues through alders and coast live oaks to Muir Beach, where the creek curves gracefully into the ocean only 15 miles from the Golden Gate. This may be the only stream in

Riparian forests protect the banks of Redwood Creek in Muir Woods. NORTH COAST

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California where one can walk from headwater source to ocean on public trails the entire way—all in one day.

Napa River

While the Napa Valley is renowned for its vineyards and wineries, the river that supports these enterprises is little known. The stream begins on the southern flank of Mount St. Helena—tallest peak in the North Bay region. It’s immediately dammed with a small reservoir at Kimball Canyon and then curves through the intensively farmed Napa Valley. Though relatively undammed, the stream is heavily altered with riprapped banks, vineyard encroachments, channelization, groundwater withdrawals, and diversions. Vegetation chokes the streambed, banks erode, and bridge placements collect flood debris causing further damage. A small run of Steelhead hang on in the Napa River, with an occasional spawning Chinook. Extremely unlikely, a few Chum Salmon—virtually extinct in California—are also seen here. Below Napa, the river’s sinuous tidal channel feeds expansive wetlands of San Pablo Bay. The lower river is the focus of progressive flood-control reforms. Inundated in 1986 and with a failing system of levees, the city had appealed to the Army Corps of Engineers. But the agency’s straightening and channelizing plan was rejected by townspeople not wanting to ruin public access, and by conservationists aiming for restoration. An award-winning alternative proposed by a consortium of community members features “living river” principles including reconnecting the stream with its historic floodplain, reinstating meanders and wetlands, opening up bridge obstructions, and protecting natural features. Implementation of parts of this plan is under way. Length: 58 miles Average flow: 255 cfs Watershed: 415 square miles

WHERE TO GO

As the river enters its tidal zone it can be seen via the 1.2-mile Napa River bike, foot, and handicapped-accessible trail, from Trancas Street down to Lincoln Avenue (to be extended farther). Paths lead from the paved trail to the narrow, muddy, tidal river amid its riparian corridor of sycamores, willows, and hybrid valley-Oregon white oaks, while kingfishers chatter on the wing. Take Hwy. 29 to the Trancas exit, go east 2 miles, park in the Silverado Plaza, and walk to the stream. In center city, festive public walkways reach the river. The lower estuary can be seen by paddling inlets and sloughs that lead to San Pablo Bay. Boat ramps lie at the southern end of Napa and at Cuttings Wharf; from Napa go south on Hwy. 29 about 3 miles and turn left on Cuttings Wharf Road. Though the water quickly becomes big, this is one of the best places to see a river estuary in San Francisco Bay. Anglers catch Striped Bass in fall and sturgeon in winter–spring. 126

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Other sizable streams of the North Bay are the 21-mile-long Petaluma, curving through wetlands north of Navato, and 19-mile Navato Creek, which is a rare suburban stream stocked with Rainbow Trout at O’Hare and Miwok parks.

Alameda Creek

Alameda Creek flows through Niles Canyon. Though crowded with Hwy. 84, this is perhaps the best seminatural Bay Area canyon, which transects the Berkeley Hills and was probably antecedent, or established before the current Coast Range arose (the hills are still rising at a rapid rate of 6 inches per century). The lower 11 miles are channelized, with levees running the whole way to the bay. Alameda’s watershed includes the highest peaks in the region: Copernicus, Mount Isabel, and Mount Hamilton (4,360 feet). Even with dams and blockages, the creek supports 12 native fishes—one of the best assemblages in the Bay Area—and has residual runs of Steelhead and lamprey. Rainbow Trout are stocked in the canyon, and the Alameda Creek Alliance works to improve passage for Steelhead. An unusual case of a federally threatened species surviving within an urban area, the sizable Alameda Whipsnake is found here and occasionally suns itself on the bike trail. The principal tributary, Arroyo Hondo, carves the deepest gorge in the Bay Area, cutting through a private roadless canyon between the Mount Hamilton Road and Calaveras Reservoir. Length: 45 miles Average flow: 76 cfs Watershed: 654 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The creek can be seen from a small East Bay Regional Park 11 miles east of Fremont and just above the Dumbarton Bridge (immediately south of Hwy. 84). A paved bike trail on the south side and gravel trail on the north side follow the levees downstream to the bay, with a surprising amount of bird life given the channelized nature of the stream. Inflatable dams are erected here to slow floodwaters, and offer an example of temporary dam structures that can be removed for seasonal fish passage. Upstream, Hwy. 84 curves through Niles Canyon with its thick riparian forest for 5 miles with nominal pullouts. Kayakers occasionally paddle the brushy Class III run after winter rains.

Guadalupe River

The Guadalupe rises with runoff from the northeast side of the Santa Cruz Mountains and flows through San Jose and along the Silver Creek Fault. The heavily developed basin includes six reservoirs, and mercury contamination from Gold Rush–era mines is detected in sediments, fish, and birds’ Length: 16 miles Average flow: 67 cfs Watershed: 177 square miles

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eggs. But even with the problems, some fall Chinook and winter Steelhead are seen—probably hatchery strays. Elimination of two fish barriers in 1998 and addition of a fish ladder at a Santa Clara Valley Water District dam in 1999 benefited the struggling runs. Yet other changes, including freeway construction and upper river channelization for flood control, have made conditions worse, and the fish have continued to decline. At the river’s outlet in San Francisco Bay, salt evaporation ponds covering 15,000 acres are being restored. The Guadalupe River Park and Gardens is a major urban park along 3 miles of the river, and trails have been built along 11 miles through San Jose. See city maps. Draining into the South Bay just east of the Guadalupe, neighboring 60-mile-long Coyote Creek is one of few Bay Area streams stocked with Rainbow Trout. A 15-mile trail and bike path follows the stream south of San Jose, with easy access off Hwy. 101, including Morgan Hill; from 101 take Cochrane Road east a mile to the creek and Coyote Hellyer County Park. The riparian corridor has fine sycamores and coast live oaks. Fishing is limited to catch-and-release with artificial lures; boating on the rare high and brushy flows is prohibited because of precautions against alien zebra snails.

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I D AH O

5 101

395

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Sacramento Basin 99 5

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80

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101

50

80 49

395

Stockton

San Francisco

San Jose

99

1

Fresno

Salinas 5 101

395 99

1

Bakersfield

15

Barstow 40 101

5

Santa Barbara San Bernardino

Los Angeles 10

5

N

0 0

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Pit R

ram ent oR McClo ud R

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Shasta Dam

Ck Hat

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Sac

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Redding

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99

eat kF

Quincy

NF

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hico

her

Ck

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F Fk

er eath

N Yuba Oroville Dam

Fordyce Ck

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Bear R 5

M

che

Ca

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Ck

99

e Am

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merican N Fk A n a c ri R me kA

on

Yuba R

Ru bic

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Sacramento R 20

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Pyramid Ck Fk A m e r i can

an ric Folsom Dam

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Silver Fk American

Putah Ck Sacramento Monticello Dam

99

1 80

49

N

Stockton

Sacramento Basin 0 130

0

99

50 miles RIVER PROFILES

50 kilometers

5

49

Sacramento River

As California’s largest river, the Sacramento flows south from Mount Shasta to tidewater at the city of Sacramento, then wends westward through the delta to San Francisco Bay. Only the giant Columbia carries more water into the Pacific south of Canada. The San Joaquin enters the Sacramento Basin within the delta but is considered separately in this book. The river begins with runoff from both the Trinity Mountains and Mount Shasta of the Cascade Range and is soon impounded at Box Canyon Dam. Below this, the Sacramento runs through 36 miles of forested canyon with I-5 slicing into higher slopes and a railroad curving through the gorge. The river then enters backwaters of California’s largest reservoir—4.5 million acre-feet behind the 602-foot-high Shasta Dam. Keswick Dam lies 8 miles below Shasta, and then from Redding to Red Bluff the river passes 55 miles of riparian forests, farms, homesites, and volcanic cliffs. Below the Red Bluff Diversion Dam levees appear, but a riparian corridor of at least some extent continues for 99 miles to Colusa. Then levees and industrial farmland tightly constrain the river for 84 miles to Sacramento. Finally, the 113-mile-long route through the delta to the Golden Gate is California’s largest estuary, with 700 miles of intertwined sloughs, mostly bordered by levees intended to protect farmland. Notable small tributaries include Battle Creek, north of Red Bluff, where 17 miles of calm water ease through thick riparian habitat. This is the Central Valley’s only stream where all five runs of salmon and Steelhead Length: 374 miles to Golden Gate (384 miles with the South Fork; 113 miles tidal) Average flow: 23,490 cfs Watershed: 21,350 square miles

Sacramento River and cottonwood forest above Red Bluff. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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still spawn; stocked Rainbow Trout fishing can also be found. Restoration of Battle Creek, including dam removal, is one of the most important needs for the Sacramento Basin’s endangered winter-run Chinook. To see the creek, drive east from Red Bluff on Rte. 36 for 41 miles to a campground. Southward, 34-mile long Paynes Creek is another notable stream with an undeveloped 7-mile gorge that leads to the Sacramento. Next, Antelope Creek’s 23 miles (Class III–IV) of springtime whitewater end at Cone Grove municipal park southeast of Red Bluff (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). From the west, Clear Creek carries the added volume of Trinity River diversions, enters the Sacramento south of Redding, and is the site of a major Chinook restoration project. Joining the river north of Anderson, 21-mile-long Cottonwood Creek is the longest undammed west-side tributary, though it has diversion weirs. After winter storms, its Middle Fork features Class III–IV rapids for 24 miles between Platina Road and the North Fork; the South Fork’s 10-mile Class II+ run extends from Pettyjohn Road to Rte. 36 (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). The Middle Fork’s principal tributary, Beegum Creek, is crossed by Hwy. 36, where a hillside scramble upstream on the south side overlooks the rugged Beegum Gorge. Flowing off the Coast Range west of Chico, Stony Creek is dammed twice but has two Class II paddling runs in winter (800–1,600 cfs at Black Butte Reservoir) above and below Stony Gorge Reservoir (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). These runs showcase pastoral hill country with oaks and sycamores. Just downstream from Colusa, 92-mile long Butte Creek enters the Sacramento from the east after passing through 12 miles of wetlands at the base of the Sierra Buttes. Important spring Chinook runs here benefitted from a set of small dam removals in 1987; 14 salmon returning that year increased to 20,000 in 1999. This is the best spring Chinook stream in California, though still beleaguered by warm water temperatures that block fish from advancing on their spawning runs. Tuthill’s “California Creeks” rates Butte Creek as an excellent paddling run in spring with 6 miles of Class II+ from a PG&E powerhouse to the Honey Run Road covered bridge; go just south of Chico on Hwy. 99, turn east on Honey Run Road, and go 6 miles to the bridge. Four miles east of Hwy. 99 on the Honey Run Road, the 93-acre Butte Creek Ecological Preserve is a recovering mining site with a mile of creek frontage and trails open to the public. NATURAL HISTORY

Natural highlights of the Sacramento include the upper river’s Rainbow Trout and Class III–V rapids above Shasta Reservoir. Below Redding and especially for the 25 miles above Red Bluff, volcanic cliffs rise and cottonwood forests green the edge. Vernal pools support rare plants, and the riverfront zone is alive with birds and wildlife. Having ample runoff, low elevation, and mild climate, this middle Sacramento remains one of the state’s more important riparian refuges. The greater basin (including the 132

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San Joaquin) is one of the richest for native fish diversity, with 40 species including 17 endemic and 10 anadromous fishes. The unusual cluster of speciation is due to the basin’s large size, varied habitat, and isolation from other fish populations for the past 10–17 million years. Though beleaguered, all four runs of Chinook plus Steelhead still return on their spawning journeys. Other native fishes include Speckled Dace, Hardhead, Riffle Sculpin, Pacific Lamprey, Sacramento Sucker, and one of California’s two populations of endangered Green Sturgeon. The Sacramento’s late-fall-run Chinook are the largest salmon in California, surviving here in the ample summer dam-controlled releases where smolts—unlike in most rivers that get low in summer—can hold over for a year. The reach from Keswick Dam to Red Bluff provides the only spawning beds for the Sacramento’s once great winter-run Chinook—unique to the Sacramento and once strong in the McCloud subbasin. A plethora of introduced species include Green Sunfish, Bluegill, bass, shad, Black and Brown bullheads, white and Channel catfish, and Striped Bass, and together they’ve dramatically altered the river’s ecosystem. Beavers, mink, and otters can be seen at least down to Colusa, along with Bald Eagles, Ospreys, and Sandhill Cranes—200 bird species in all. CONSERVATION

The main-stem Sacramento suffers from a daunting suite of problems that are typical of California rivers but writ large here. Salmon and Steelhead— once among the richest anadromous runs in the world according to the American Fisheries Society—have been reduced by more than 90 percent,

Sacramento River and levees upstream of the Feather River.

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from 1 to 2 million a year down to a few thousand. All wild salmon and Steelhead runs are either declining, threatened, endangered, or extinct. These fish had accounted for two-thirds of the salmon commercially caught off the California coast, supporting a vibrant industry that’s now shut down. Shasta Dam alone erased half the spawning habitat, while tributary dams cut off the majority of other spawning grounds, and Red Bluff Diversion Dam killed many migrants. Sacramento Perch went locally extinct as a result of the elimination of backwater wetlands, plus an influx of alien predators. Silt from gold mining filled the riverbeds. Channelization and levees truncated riparian forests. Land development consumed floodplains and further restricted channels, while population growth and industrial agriculture require massive withdrawals. Pollution and warming water threaten aquatic life. More subtly, the transformation of river flows redefined the entire fishery; high cold flows in spring had historically receded as snowmelt waned, but after Shasta Dam was built, the seasonal cycle was replaced with artificially high and cold releases in summer. The effect blurred the discrete runs of salmon and Steelhead that had been attuned to natural cycles, and headlong decline soon followed. The winter and spring runs of salmon had collapsed because their long spawning runs to mountain streams had been dammed, but the fall-run Chinook were holding at a viable level until 2008, when that run also collapsed. Managers had regarded 122,000 returning fish as the viable minimum, but the count plummeted to 58,000, and commercial salmon fishing on the West Coast was closed. Meanwhile, the river’s wooded riparian corridor, which once covered 800,000 acres, was reduced to less than 12,000 because of clearing for farms and levees. More than 42 miles of riverbank have been transformed from a biological bonanza to a wasteland riprapped by the Army Corps of Engineers, and many more miles were rock-lined by farmers. Proposals in the 1980s to protect the scarce remaining woodlands were met by hostility. A more cooperative atmosphere has since evolved with some landowners opting to steward their forestlands or even to sell easements for protection. Exceeding other problems, diversions averaging 5 million acre-feet per year are taken from the delta and shipped southward to farms and cities, altering currents in the estuary and exposing migrating fish to fatal hazards. Responding to one of the challenges—the loss of riparian habitat—the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and land trusts have protected 17,000 acres above Red Bluff in recent decades and hope to acquire more as private landowners become willing to sell. Several small dams have been eliminated on tributaries including Battle Creek, which increased salmon spawning. The Red Bluff Diversion Dam—a major killer of sturgeon, salmon, and Steelhead—has been altered to allow more fish to pass. But the nettlesome problems of the delta persist, with managers deadlocked in a three-way political contest: restoration through decreased diversions southward, the construction of a peripheral canal that could solve some of the problems but facilitate further diversions, and some elusive 134

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compromise to improve delta conditions, protect undiverted waters of the North, and also facilitate sending water south. WHERE TO GO

A short trail follows along the rapids and pools of a wild shoreline above Shasta Reservoir in Castle Crags State Park. The upper river can also be seen at the Forest Service’s Pollard Flat Campground; take I-5 north of the reservoir to exit 712 and Pollard Flat. Downstream, the 9-mile Sacramento River Trail extends from Keswick Dam to Redding; two pedestrian bridges provide for loop options. The trail is part of the 60-mile-long Sacramento River Parkway between Shasta Dam and Redding. From I-5 take the Hwy. 299 exit, go west through downtown Redding, turn right on Court Street, go half a mile, and park before the Sacramento bridge. North of Red Bluff, the 8-mile Yana Trail on BLM land leads downriver through grasslands and lava rimrock; from Red Bluff go north on I-5, exit Jellys Ferry Road, go north, cross the river, and find the trail to the right. Red Bluff Diversion Dam has a viewing area where people can watch salmon swimming upstream through a television monitor in August– mid-September (though this dam has been the worst death trap for salmon on the Sacramento). From I-5 take Antelope Boulevard east, then turn right on Sale Lane and go 2 miles. It’s also possible to see salmon from Redding’s SunDial Bridge, on the Sacramento River Trail near Turtle Bay Aquarium. Public access areas are plentiful with riverfront parks at Redding, Anderson, Red Bluff, Tehama, Woodson Bridge east of Corning, Bidwell– Sacramento River State Park west of Chico, Butte City, Colusa, Knights Landing, and other locations. Within Sacramento, Discovery Park is at the American River confluence; take I-5 north from downtown, go west on Richards Boulevard, then immediately north on Jibboom Street to the park (fees). An urban parkway is being developed by Sacramento and West Sacramento with a bike trail from Discovery Park south to Old Sacramento State Historic Park. Fishing for Rainbow Trout is popular in the river’s upper reaches at Dunsmuir, where the water has recovered from a notorious toxic railroad spill in 1991. Trout are stocked downstream to Castle Crags State Park. The park and Forest Service sites have public access. Below Shasta Dam, Rainbow Trout thrive in the cold, clear, plentiful summertime releases from the reservoir, and the tailrace fishery below Redding is considered the best place in California for large numbers of trout; catch rates are among the highest in the West, October–November and spring–early summer. Fishing from drift boats is popular, especially at levels above 9,000 cfs when the river is truly big. Salmon fishing for hatchery stock has historically been a draw, peaking in September– October. Shad are caught below Red Bluff in June–July. Down to Colusa, anglers come for trout, shad, salmon, Striped Bass, and sturgeon; most SACRAMENTO BASIN

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fishing is from boats on these large waters. Tehama Riffle is a favorite spot for shoreline fishing; from I-5 take the Tehama exit and head east, turn right on A8, cross the river, and go left on a dirt road. Bass fishing is popular the whole way downriver, and catfish are hooked in lower reaches. Striped Bass draw thousands of anglers in spring near Colusa, in Sacramento, and through the delta. Sturgeon are caught in the delta and the Knights Ferry–Colusa reach. The Sacramento above Shasta Reservoir has expert whitewater paddling in spring–early summer. A 7-mile reach (Class IV–V) without railroad intrusion lies between Box Canyon Dam and Dunsmuir (see Cassady and Calhoun, California Whitewater, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). From Dunsmuir to Gibson another 29 miles of expert Class IV–V whitewater flow in spring (750 cfs is a good low level) through a forested canyon with views to Mount Shasta. The 55-mile Redding–Red Bluff reach offers an outstanding Class I–II canoe, dory, or raft route with occasional campsites, strong yearlong flows (5,000–12,000 cfs), and some powerful and tricky currents but no major rapids. This reach is one of the state’s few desirable multiday river trips on relatively easy water and on large summer releases. Salmon may be spawning September–May. The first of two popular segments is the 22 miles from Redding to Balls Ferry (southeast of Anderson) with riffles, riverfront houses, riparian forests, and farmland. Put in at Turtle Bay Park north of Hwy. 299 or at the South Bonnieview Bridge in south Redding, which is immediately followed by the swift Tobiason Rapid. The wilder 33-mile (Class I–II) run from Balls Ferry to Red Bluff curves through farmland, volcanic bluffs, riparian forests, and oak savanna, with several ramps and campsites on BLM land. Inexperienced paddlers should be wary of turbulence downstream from Bend and at several other places. Logs and driftwood can challenge unwary boaters. Below here, the gates of the Red Bluff Diversion Dam are closed in summer and require portage but are open from mid-September through mid-May for fish, making an uninterrupted canoe trip possible (the Red Bluff dam is soon scheduled to remain open year-round). The 99-mile reach from Red Bluff to Colusa makes a good Class I Central Valley meander through riparian forests, though farmland and levee encroachment increase. Within the first 25 miles to Woodson Bridge, the Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge highlights the west bank for 9 miles. At Woodson, a State Recreation Area of oak woodlands is adjoined by a riparian preserve that supports roosting Bald Eagles in winter, rare Yellow-billed Cuckoos nesting in summer, and a large population of Bank Swallows. The preserve presents a rare chance to see what the original Sacramento riverfront once was. Beyond, beaches and intermediate access spots make the 74 miles from Woodson Bridge to Colusa an attractive trip for paddlers and motorboaters. From Colusa to the city of Sacramento, the increasingly muddy river offers 84 miles of Class I canoeing, but levees and farmland line the banks, and motorboats are the main craft. I’ve found riverfront campsites even 136

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in this industrial agricultural valley, but have also been sprayed by aerial crop dusters at my campsite. The delta’s 700 intertwined miles of windy open channels and murkywater sloughs lined by weed-infested levees are best seen from motorboats. But Suisun Marsh, south of Fairfield, is an excellent place to paddle in rare semiwild wetlands and see what the original delta once resembled. Launch at Suisun City on the south side of Fairfield and Hwy. 12.

McCloud River

A classic among trout anglers and whitewater boaters, the McCloud has clear water, springflows, and good trout habitat in two wild reaches. It’s the finest Cascade Mountain river in California. It runs west and south, is interrupted by McCloud Reservoir, and later empties into Shasta Reservoir. The upper stream meanders through a broad valley shared with Hwy. 89. At Falls of the McCloud the river foams over three cataracts in a basalt gorge; the spectacular middle falls is 81 feet high and 100 feet wide. Below the lower falls the river churns for 10 miles of whitewater before hitting 4-mile-long McCloud Reservoir. Downstream the river descends another 24 miles through deep woodlands, basalt gorges, big rapids, and resounding wildness. The final 15 miles are buried under Shasta Reservoir. Prodigious storms spilling rain and snow on Mount Shasta produce runoff that sinks into the region’s porous lava. The water later reemerges as frigid 42-degree F springwater, giving the McCloud one of the steadiest, Length: 77 miles Average flow: 1,254 cfs Watershed: 613 square miles

McCloud River at Middle Falls. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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clearest, and coldest flows in California. It rarely floods and rarely gets low. As a result, ferns, Indian rhubarb, bigleaf maples, and coniferous forests grow to the stream’s edge, making this one of the greenest riverfronts anywhere. A hydroelectric project diverts water of the lower reach to the Pit River, but the McCloud remains a prized trout stream and is designated in the State Scenic Rivers System. In addition to native Rainbows that are popular among anglers, exotic Brown Trout reign in the warmer waters of the reservoir, migrate into the river, and grow to 30 inches. Native Riffle Sculpins thrive, and this is sole habitat of the McCloud River Redband Trout in upper reaches and small creeks where the voracious Brown Trout can be avoided. The stream once had the southernmost Bull Trout, whose historic presence probably dated to the former, ancient route of the Snake River westward. Suffering from hydropower withdrawals and competition by Brown Trout, the last bull trout was seen in 1975. In what must have been a truly magnificent fishery, salmon and Steelhead also migrated here but were blocked by Shasta Dam. The McCloud has been threatened by Bureau of Reclamation proposals to raise Shasta Dam, which would flood more of the lower McCloud including sacred sites of the Winnemem Wintu Indians. Meanwhile, the Nestle Corporation proposed a bottled-water facility that would export 1,600 acre-feet per year. The McCloud Watershed Council, California Trout, and Trout Unlimited opposed the plan, which in 2008 was abandoned. PG&E once wanted to increase diversions from McCloud Reservoir by 50 percent, but that threat was likewise blocked, and a relicensing of the existing hydropower facility is under way, with possibilities for improvements to river flows. WHERE TO GO

An excellent trail follows the upper river with easy access to the Falls of the McCloud. From Hwy. 89 at McCloud go 4 miles east, then south to Fowlers Camp and the river. Downstream, below the PG&E reservoir, excellent waterfront paths on both sides pass through old-growth forest near Ah-Di-Na Campground. Farther downstream, one of the choice riverfront trails in northern California runs for 3 miles through Douglas-firs and wild frontage of the Nature Conservancy’s 2,330-acre McCloud River Preserve. This protects 6 miles of the lower stream and is popular with anglers and hikers in nonwinter months. From Hwy. 89 at McCloud drive south on Squaw Valley Road 9 miles to McCloud Reservoir, stay right for 2.4 miles, turn right to Ah-Di-Na, and go another mile to the preserve. The preserve’s lower 4 miles are closed to the public. Anglers flock to the McCloud for excellent Rainbow Trout fishing, especially in the Falls area with its National Forest access and campgrounds. Below Ah-Di-Na Campground, 2 miles of Klamath National Forest frontage are open for fishing, and the Nature Conservancy offers catch-and-release angling by preregistration limited to 10 people per day. 138

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The McCloud has two outstanding paddling reaches (600–1,500 cfs) in springtime according to Holbek and Stanley’s Guide to the Best Whitewater, and Tuthill’s “California Creeks.” From the lower falls to McCloud Reservoir, 10 miles of Class III flow with one Class IV rapid at 200-cfs minimum for kayaks; low flows at the top are soon augmented by the impressive Big Springs. A 24-mile Class IV run with one V drop begins at the Ah-Di-Na Campground, flows through private land posted by two fishing clubs, and ends in Shasta Reservoir.

Pit River

A relatively unknown giant of the northeast, the Pit is far larger than the Sacramento where the two meet in the backwaters of Shasta Dam and can account for 80 percent of the reservoir’s inflow. In this sense, the Pit is the true source of the Sacramento, and the combined mileage of the Pit and the Sacramento downstream from it is 540 miles—by far the longest river in California and one of the longest in the West. In its route across the Modoc Plateau and Cascade Mountains, the Pit picks up springflows from the volcanic landscape and winds through harsh basalt canyons before its final 30 miles beneath Shasta Reservoir. Much of the river has been converted into a stairstep of 11 PG&E power dams, altering the ecosystem and hydrology Length: 207 miles (241 miles with the South Fork; 540 miles including the South Fork and Sacramento downstream) Average flow: 4,952 cfs Watershed: 4,887 square miles

Pit River in its wild canyon below Fall River Mills. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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of this unique river. But some valuable pieces remain, including unusual fish associations and excellent angling spots for trout. The Pit and Klamath are the West’s only rivers that rise in the Great Basin and flow west to the Pacific. Buffeted by uplifts of volcanic cones across the Modoc Plateau, the circuitous stream begins with its North Fork, which once drained Goose Lake, and its South Fork, which begins with Warner Mountains runoff. This Great Basin uplift looks more like the Rocky Mountains than anyplace else in California. Enormous ice-age lakes in the upper basin evaporated, leaving silt-filled remnants called Goose Lake, Moon Lake, and Big Sage (now a reservoir). Goose Lake drained to the North Fork until the early 1900s when ranchers’ diversions dropped the level below the outlet. Isolated there, a race of Redband Trout and five other native species survive in lake tributaries, principally Lassen Creek, plus Thomas Creek in Oregon. These and the South Fork headwaters have been the target of successful restoration efforts with attention to grazing on Modoc National Forest. Heavily diverted and channeled through ranchland, the upper Pit meanders sharply, and variously heads north, south, and west. Fourteen native fishes reflect the stream’s ancient linkage to the Great Basin and Klamath River, and also its current connection to the Sacramento, which began when lava blocked the previous route north. In an interesting interplay of geology and biology, lava-formed cataracts such as Pit River Falls separate upper river fish assemblages of the Great Basin from lower river groups of the Sacramento. For all its epic geology and geography, the upper Pit is small to begin with and then is diverted to a trickle, its banks riprapped, its edges pastured. Big Valley—15 miles east of Fall River Mills—was once one of California’s great wetlands; Rte. 299 crosses five Pit River sloughs in flats now thoroughly grazed or mowed for hay. At Fall River Mills, where the Fall River contributes runoff from Mount Shasta, the Pit comes into its own with strong, steady currents. The protean stream at this point is variously a glassy spring-fed artery much like legendary trout waters of the Rocky Mountains, a desert stream in arid canyons, and a tumult of whitewater at lava outcrops not yet smoothed into a steadier profile. It crosses the sagging backbone of the Cascade Mountains between Mount Shasta and Lassen. The lower river is alternately flooded behind dams and de-watered by hydroelectric diversions. Even in undammed sections, overgrown vegetation clogs channels deprived of water. The relicensing of power dams has improved some of the minimum releases in recent years. A few tributaries still harbor the rare Modoc Sucker, and undeveloped reaches are habitat of the Rough Sculpin and a total of eight threatened or endangered species, including the Shasta Crayfish, which may go extinct as a result of competition from exotic crayfishes. The Pit River Watershed Alliance and fishing groups have worked for better stewardship, and the BLM has recommended an upper and lower reach for National Wild and Scenic River designation. 140

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WHERE TO GO

The diminutive, depleted upper river can be seen from Rte. 299 south of Canby, and with more water at Lookout and at Bieber. Pit Falls can be reached by a remote gravel road south of Fall River Mills but is more easily seen from a distant overlook on Hwy. 299 about 2 miles west of town. Four miles west of town, on the south side of the 299 bridge, a trail leads upstream and passes through an oak savanna. Respect rattlesnakes throughout this basin; in relatively little hiking here, I’ve encountered several. Fishing is popular in a number of reaches including the South Fork, where Brown and Rainbow trout are stocked. Also at the headwaters, Mill Creek offers wild-trout angling. Good trout fishing can be found at a BLM campground off Hwy. 299 about 3 miles west of Fall River Mills, and in another mile at the Hat Creek confluence west of the 299 bridge. Lower reaches, below each of the power dams, have some excellent trout water. Wading is necessary but difficult with ledges and slippery algal rocks. The 6-mile “Pit 3” section immediately below Britton Reservoir is the place for fly-fishing, reached by turning west off Hwy. 89; it has had no stocking since the 1980s. Relicensing of this dam increased flows from 150 to 300 cfs, yielding colder water, deeper pools, and more habitat. Other reaches below Powerhouse 3 and Pit 4 and 5 dams are popular and had no special fishing regulations at last notice. The river is accessible at Fender Ferry; from Redding head east on 299 for 31 miles to Fender’s Ferry Road, turn left, and drive into the canyon. Big Bend is another good spot: go 40 miles east from Redding on 299, turn left on Big Bend Road, and continue 17 miles to the Pit. Bald Eagles and Ospreys nest along this reach. In Sierra Whitewater, Charles Martin reported Class IV–V rapids in several Pit River reaches. The most reliable of these, from Fall River Mills to the Hwy. 299 bridge, offers 10 miles of Class IV paddling (600–2,000 cfs) in spring or early summer with a portage at the 30-foot Pit Falls.

Fall River

Largest spring creek west of the Rocky Mountains, Fall River is a quintessential fly-fishing stream. Headwaters in Bear Creek grow with springflows and with snowmelt from southeast of Mount Shasta and riffle into ranchland. With the water of “Thousand Springs,” the stream is transformed into a broad, glassy, gin-clear spring creek, fed by cold underground aquifers of the volcanic landscape. The Fall supports not only trout but also an endangered crayfish and endemic sculpins. Not wild—drifting almost entirely through mowed and fenced ranchland— the Pit slips by tall or overhanging banks where large Brown and Rainbow Length: 24 miles (52 miles with Bear Creek) Average flow: 441 cfs Watershed: 342 square miles

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Fall River at the California Trout access north of Fall River Mills.

trout lurk. Coming from similar spring-fed sources, the 7-mile-long Tule River joins above Fall River Mills. A low dam blocks the lower Fall, and silt caused by logging, grazing, and fires in the Bear Creek drainage have somewhat degraded the river’s legendary water quality and habitat, but the Fall remains a California phenomenon for trout. WHERE TO GO

Frontage is nearly all private, but California Trout acquired a small access for fishing; from Fall River Mills turn north on A20 (Glenburn Road), go 8 miles, turn north on Island Road, and go 2 miles. The bridge here is a good spot to see trout in transparent water. This California Trout site becomes crowded, and the only other publicly used frontage is an old PG&E dredge site: from Fall River Mills drive north on A20, turn right on A19, cross the river, and turn right at an abandoned dredge machine. Except for property owners and their guests, fishing is from small boats or canoes, which can navigate up and down the languid stream. Catch-and-release regulations here call for barbless hooks and artificial lures.

Hat Creek

A legendary trout stream, Hat Creek has a clear, cold, steady flow that tumbles through a lava landscape. This chalkstream—rich in calcium carbonate— nourishes insects and invertebrates, and thereby fish. Length: 40 miles Average flow: 439 cfs Watershed: 375 square miles

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Hat Creek and its fine trout waters southeast of Burney.

The West Fork drops from snow-covered slopes on the east side of Lassen Peak and from the plug-dome of Chaos Crags, while the East Fork sips from lakes on Lassen’s southeast flank. The main stem then curves through forest, fenced range, and volcanic meadows in Hat Creek Valley. About 10 miles up from the mouth, the Rising River enters with cold water from linked mirrorlike pools, much like trout waters of the Yellowstone Plateau. Diversions and hydroelectric plants mar the lower creek, which includes a barrier dam installed to stop Sacramento Suckers in Britton Reservoir—downstream on the Pit River—from migrating, though the efficacy of this action to benefit trout is considered questionable. WHERE TO GO

Headwaters can be seen at Hat Lake, northeast of Lassen Peak along Hwy. 89. Trails extend upstream and downstream. Rte. 89 follows close to Hat Creek through much of its valley, has several public recreation sites, and serves a number of fly-fishing resorts. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses 3 miles south of Hwy. 299. Hugely popular among fly fishermen, this stream is regarded as one of the foremost spring creeks in the West. The upper reach has fast water stocked with Rainbow and Brown trout, and no special fishing regulations. The lower river is a Wild Trout fishery where anglers are limited to lures and barbless hooks. For 3 miles from Powerhouse 2 to the fish barrier above Fall River, the stream is challenging to anglers with its deep glassy pools, volcanic ledges, clear water, aquatic plants, and multitudes of insects. The creek is not known or recommended as a paddling stream. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Burney Creek at McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park.

Burney Creek

With runoff from the volcanic cone of Burney Mountain, west of Hat Creek, Burney Creek heads north through pine forests and ranchland meadows. In summer, all the water soaks underground upstream of McArthurBurney Falls Memorial State Park (the second state park established in California), but near the boundary groundwater recharges the stream before it plunges over a waterfall that an exuberant President Theodore Roosevelt called “the eighth wonder of the world.” The 129-foot drop gets perhaps half its volume from springs perched in rock ledges partway down. These spray in white ribbons against black basalt; the falls dramatically shows how groundwater percolates through lava tubes and conduits. The deeply forested stream then foams to Britton Reservoir on the Pit. A superb loop trail leads to overlooks and the misty base of the falls, then follows the river for a mile to the reservoir. The state park is popular for trout fishing. Length: 33 miles Average flow: 281 cfs Watershed: 180 square miles

Mill Creek Length: 57 miles Average flow: 197 cfs Watershed: 132 square miles

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From the southwest flank of Lassen Peak, Mill Creek rushes through wild country to the Sacramento River, and is considered one of the top three streams

Mill Creek at the remote Black Rock, Ponderosa Way Bridge.

of the southern Cascade–Sierra Nevada area for native fishes and intact aquatic ecosystems according to Moyle and Randall in the Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project. Lower reaches become nearly dry by late summer. Mill Creek is one of few streams that still support threatened springrun Chinook. These have the longest spawning journey among all Sacramento salmon and reach one of the highest spawning locations of Pacific Salmon south of the Columbia Basin. In the 1950s, 16,000 spawned here; after 1992 the average fell to 1,036, but this was still one of the best Sacramento tributaries. The creek supports a resident Rainbow Trout fishery and nine to 12 native fish species in all. This and neighboring Deer Creek were used by Yahi Indians, commemorated in Kroeber and Kroeber’s Ishi in Two Worlds and in the naming of the Ishi Wilderness, which includes parts of both creeks. The Forest Service recommended that 32 miles of Mill Creek be added to the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. Though not a part of the State Wild and Scenic System, special protections were granted here under California legislation. Freshwater Ecoregions of North America (Abell et al.) lists this among the state’s 12 most important waterways for conservation of biodiversity. WHERE TO GO

Rte. 36 crosses the upper creek south of Lassen National Park. South of 36, Rte. 172 follows the stream with pullouts and waterfront paths. Below Hole in the Ground Campground, a 14-mile trail leads from Rough Gulch to Ponderosa Way bridge; beware of poison oak. A long, rough dirt road also leads to this spectacular site, called Black SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Rock: from Red Bluff take Rte. 36 east for 23 miles to Paynes Creek, go south on Plum Creek Road for about 9 miles to Ponderosa Way, and continue south for 20 miles, including a rocky, rutted final descent to the creek and a campground. The magnificent Black Rock pool lies just upstream, and a trail leads downstream on the north side. It reportedly continues for about 10 miles but quickly becomes brushy with poison oak. During high runoff of late spring and early summer, Mill Creek offers one of California’s more challenging experts-only whitewater trips. A Class V run with multiple portages has been done on the upper river below Hwy. 172 for 17 miles to Black Rock. More often run—but still at the outer edge of expert boating—another 30 miles of Class V with portages continues with private land and hazards to a crossing near Hwy. 99 (500–1,500 cfs at Los Molinos). Two diversion dams with fish ladders block the lower stream (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

Deer Creek

A twin to Mill Creek, with headwaters draining forests south of Lassen Peak, Deer Creek tumbles through Cascade foothill canyons and joins the Sacramento River east of Corning. This is among the southernmost streams of the Cascade Mountain’s volcanic landscape. Along with Mill Creek and the Clavey River, Deer Creek ranks among the top three in the Sierra-Cascade region of California for biological integrity and native fishes, and also among the top sites listed for the Length: 68 miles Average flow: 324 cfs Watershed: 223 square miles

Deer Creek below Potato Patch Campground, along Rte. 32. 146

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conservation of biodiversity in Freshwater Ecoregions of North America (Abell et al.). Nearly 40 miles of excellent spawning habitat make this one of few streams with native spring-run Chinook. In deference to landowners, the state opted against Wild and Scenic protection but did pass a law banning new dams. The Forest Service recommends National Wild and Scenic designation. Residents have formed the Deer Creek Conservancy, which has protected and improved habitat through better logging and grazing. WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 32 northeast of Chico follows along the stream for 15 miles and offers fishing access and forest camping. At the first Deer Creek bridge from the southwest, a 5-mile trail leads downstream to Wilson Cove. Three miles farther up the road (8 miles west of Hwy. 89) a short path leads to Deer Creek Falls. Below it, catch-and-release fishing with barbless hooks is required to protect threatened salmon and Steelhead. The mouth of the creek lies at the northern end of Woodson Bridge State Recreation Area; this riparian grove of the Sacramento owes its health in part to the rich delta formed by Deer Creek. For expert boaters only (Class V+), Deer Creek from Hwy. 32 to the Sacramento is occasionally paddled in springtime. A 30-foot waterfall requires portage on the upper reach; bizarre lava formations appear below Ponderosa Way—a rough and poorly marked dirt road that crosses the wilderness canyon. Three diversion dams require portage on the lower section at posted private land.

Big Chico Creek

This stream draws water from semiwild foothills at the Cascade-Sierra interface and curves through Chico, where Bidwell Park offers the opportunity to stroll or bike along a small free-flowing waterway in both urban and adjacent wild settings. Below Chico the creek is diverted seasonally and in summer dries up at an alluvial plain before entering the Sacramento. Spring, fall, and winter Chinook plus Steelhead spawn in the creek, as do introduced shad. Bidwell Park lies along the stream for 10 miles from Chico upstream, connecting the California State University campus and Bidwell Mansion State Historic Park to wild canyonlands. In 2002 the Western Rivers Conservancy acquired two ranches totaling 5 miles of frontage above the city that became the Big Chico Creek Ecological Reserve, managed by California State University Research Foundation. Length: 46 miles Average flow: 150 cfs Watershed: 100 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Bidwell Park features 86 miles of bike and hiking trails—some along the stream. To reach Brown’s Hole for swimming, take East Avenue east from Hwy. 99 in Chico, go left on Wildwood Road SACRAMENTO BASIN

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to Bidwell Park, and walk three miles upstream on a dirt road. The Big Chico Creek Ecological Reserve (open by permission) is 10 miles east of Chico off Hwy. 32.

Feather River

The Feather is the Sierra Nevada’s northernmost river and largest by far. Its forks join in Oroville Reservoir—primary storage pool for the State Water Project, which serves irrigation and cities to the south. Downstream from the 730-foot earthen dam and its 3 million acre-foot reservoir, the main stem flows with mostly gentle currents to the Sacramento. For 12 miles below the Thermalito Diversion Pool (just below Oroville Dam), house-sized dredges excavated the river and 2-mile-wide floodplain to a depth of 55 feet and left washboards of cobbles as recently as 1952. Riparian vegetation has recovered somewhat along the scarred frontage. Downstream, some of the Central Valley’s better riverfront oak savanna is seen near the mouths of Honcut Creek and the Bear River, best reached by canoe. Length: 74 miles (185 miles with the Middle Fork and its headwaters) Average flow: 7,933 cfs Watershed: 5,843 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Bedrock Park lies just below Oroville Dam; from downtown Oroville go to the north end of Feather River Boulevard and take the riverfront path and bicycle trail. Other access areas lie south

Feather River and valley oaks at Honcut Creek, south of Gridley. 148

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of Oroville, east of Gridley, in Marysville, and at Nicolaus. The Oroville Wildlife Area borders the Feather for 10 miles below Oroville with trails for hiking, bird watching, and fishing west of Hwy. 70. On the lower river, the Bobelaine Audubon Sanctuary has 5 miles of trails and river frontage with excellent birding; from Sacramento drive on Hwy. 99 north, cross the Feather River bridge, and take the second right (Laurel Avenue) to the end. Fishing for Steelhead is popular in Oroville from Bedrock Park to the Thermalito Afterbay Dam; hatchery Chinook also draw anglers in September–October. The confluence with the Yuba in Marysville is fished for salmon, Steelhead, catfish, bass, and also shad in May. Below Marysville, Striped Bass are hooked. Though rarely run, the Feather makes one of the best extended, mostly gentle-water canoe trips in the Central Valley from Oroville to the Sacramento. Excepting floods, 400 cfs are released from Oroville Dam at Bedrock Park. After 7 miles of riffles and a small rapid, the Thermalito Afterbay Dam releases the bulk of the Feather River flows into the channel; the inflow to the river can be extremely hazardous at high levels and especially above 5,000 cfs. Either put in below there or, if you see heavy turbulence on the right at the inflow site, portage or paddle hard to the extreme left. Campsites, sandbars for swimming, and isolated riparian forests are found from Oroville to Marysville, along with levees and farmland. Then the river becomes larger below the Yuba. Roughly 8 miles below Marysville the Feather unexpectedly plunges 4 feet; portage here. After another 6 miles, a long section of excellent riparian habitat, sandbars, and oak savanna begins and continues several miles to the Bear River. The Feather reaches its steep-banked confluence with the Sacramento in another 13 miles; take out at Joe’s Landing downstream on the left. You can continue on the Sacramento for 20 miles of agricultural waterway to the capital city’s Discovery Park—altogether a revealing 94-mile Central Valley canoe trip.

North Fork Feather River

This northernmost river of the Sierra Nevada begins south of Lassen Peak at Crumbaugh Lake and flows through wild country to Almanor Reservoir and then into a deep canyon. The Western Pacific Railroad was built here to take advantage of the lowest elevation route over the Sierra Nevada. Once a world-renowned trout fishery, the North Fork was converted to a stairstep of 10 dams, reservoirs, penstocks, and power plants to Oroville Reservoir—California’s most extreme example of a river converted to a hydropower machine. In the 1990s, American Whitewater recognized that without the hydro projects the North Fork would have been “the premier whitewater Length: 100 miles Average flow: 1,452 cfs Watershed: 1,918 square miles

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North Fork Feather River, with restored flows above Cresta Dam.

destination in the country.” Paddlers and anglers united as the Hydropower Reform Coalition and launched a campaign to reinstate some part of the historic flows, reasoning that only 1 percent of the power would have to be sacrificed to reestablish a unique recreation resource below several of the dams. In 2000 the Rock Creek Cresta Settlement Agreement called for a doubling of base flows, new standards for temperature pollution, recreational releases, and habitat for fish and amphibians. Trout fishing has improved, and thousands of expert paddlers nationwide now flock to the North Fork on the last full weekend of each summer month, creating one of California’s more notable whitewater events. WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 70 parallels the railroad up the North Fork Canyon with occasional access. The roadside rest above Cresta Reservoir is one of the best places to see a section of free-flowing river. The popular stream is heavily stocked with trout. Monthly summer dam releases to the Class IV–V rapids and expert whitewater play spots below Rock Creek, Cresta, and Poe dams have become destination events (see Holbek and Stanley, Guide to the Best Whitewater, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Above Belden, Rte. 70 and the railroad follow the East Branch of the North Fork, leaving the North Fork without traffic, though power lines continue to arc overhead. A narrow paved road provides an excellent riverfront biking route with nominal traffic for 5 miles before turning to gravel and climbing sharply. Campgrounds and free pulloffs along the rushing stream serve anglers fishing for stocked Rainbow Trout. 150

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The East Branch of the North Fork begins at the confluence of Spanish Creek, which comes from Quincy, and Indian Creek, which begins above Taylorsville. The East Branch runs without dams and includes a 10-mile section of Class IV whitewater in springtime, with portages (Holbek and Stanley, Guide to the Best Whitewater). Upstream, Indian Creek Falls is one of the riverine highlights of the far northern Sierra; from the intersection of Hwy. 70 and Hwy. 89 go about 2 miles north on 89, and take a short trail from a gate on the east side of the road.

Middle Fork Feather River

The Middle Fork above Oroville Reservoir is one of the longest freeflowing sections of stream in the Sierra Nevada and one of California’s quintessential wild and natural rivers. Headwaters of Little Last Chance Creek begin east of Beckwourth and include 14 miles of braided channels on a nearly flat plain. The site is geographically like the Great Basin province to the east, and this is the closest that any river comes to transecting the Sierra. After passing the communities of Portola, Graeagle, and Sloat, the Middle Fork begins its remarkable descent through a 39-mile sequence of remote canyons to Oroville Reservoir. Gleaming white gravel bars and deep green forests border the lucid water. Near the end, at Bald Rock Canyon, granite walls rise 2,000 feet. One of the least-accessible reaches in California, the lower Length: 81 miles (111 miles with Little Last Chance Creek) Average flow: 1,500 cfs Watershed: 983 square miles

Middle Fork Feather River at Milsap Bar; South Branch enters on the left. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Middle Fork canyon features some of the clearest water, largest rapids, and wildest riverfronts in the West. The Middle Fork was among 12 rivers (counting tributaries) originally designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 1968. This prevented the Richvale Irrigation District from building dams at Nelson Point, Sherman Bar, Hartman Bar, and Milsap Bar; the Middle Fork’s designation is one of the most significant “saves” in the history of the Wild and Scenic Rivers System. Ironically, it’s also the only river to have mileage deleted after designation; because of pressure from ranchers, a headwaters section of private land was taken out in 1976. Tributary to the Middle Fork, the Fall River is a 25-mile south-side stream that also ends in Oroville Reservoir. A mile up from its mouth, Feather Falls is commonly reported as 640 feet but was recently measured as 410 with a laser rangefinder. Drive east from Oroville on Rte. 162 for 7 miles, turn right on Forbestown Road for 6 miles, left on Lumpkin Road for 11 miles, then left at a sign. The steep trail loops 8 miles. WHERE TO GO

The settled upper valley can easily be seen from Hwy. 70 and at the LaPorte Road bridge downstream from Sloat. In contrast, the Middle Fork below LaPorte Road is accessible by only a few trails and unimproved roads. The Plumas National Forest map shows several remote paths to the river: Minerva Bar, McCarthy Bar, Oddie Bar, Cleghorn Bar (rough four-wheel drive), Onion Valley Creek, Hartman Bar (footbridge), and Hanson’s Bar. Most trails are steep, rough, hot, long, poorly marked, and bristling with poison oak. The only way to drive into the canyon is on the dirt road to Milsap Bar. Take Rte. 162 east of Oroville, and just west of the Brush Creek Work Center turn south onto Galen Ridge Road, then immediately left on Milsap Bar Road for the steep drop to the river. From Milsap you can scramble a mile downriver to the entrance of Bald Rock Canyon. A short path upstream from Milsap on the north side goes to the mouth of the Little North Fork. Anglers regard the Middle Fork as an excellent freestone (swift) stream with 12-inch Rainbow Trout and Brown Trout in pools. Above Sloat the stream is stocked, but the canyon reach was one of California’s original Wild Trout Waters. Nelson Creek, a mile below the LaPorte Road bridge, is a Wild Trout stream with 15-inch Rainbows. For boaters, the upper river from Sloat to Nelson Point is an 8-mile Class II–III paddle in spring–early summer. Below there, the canyon to Milsap Bar is Class IV–V in May–June with 400–1,000 cfs at the put-in (1,000–2,000 at Merrimac) with mandatory portages—a 3-day wilderness excursion for teams of experts only. In California Whitewater, Cassady and Calhoun called this “one of the most spectacular and difficult rivers in the West.” Below Milsap, Bald Rock Canyon with extreme rapids and a major waterfall is even more challenging. 152

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Yuba River

The Yuba carries the water of three forks from deep snowpacks at the northern reaches of the Sierra Nevada and riffles through foothills amid piles of unreclaimed gold dredging interspersed with riparian habitat. The river has rare surviving runs of both fall- and spring-run Chinook, plus Steelhead, sturgeon, and Striped Bass. The main stem begins at the North-Middle Yuba confluence and in about 8 miles enters Englebright Reservoir, which was built to collect silt from hydraulic gold mining (the Yuba Basin produced more gold than any other in America). Below the dam, whose pool now evens out the radical releases of the enormous Bullards Bar hydroelectric dam upstream, the river continues for 28 miles, beginning with heavy whitewater in the narrows and broadening as the stream exits the foothills. A stark wasteland of unreclaimed gold mine dredgings extends for 8 miles—some excavated as recently as 1968. Riparian habitat in this corridor is slowly recovering. Thirteen miles below Englebright, the 24-foot Daguerre Point Dam, with poorly functioning fish ladders, diverts up to half the runoff at certain times of year. Below, the river passes dredge piles, riparian thickets, and orchards on its way to Marysville and the Feather River confluence. In the 1970s the Army Corps proposed Marysville Dam, just above Daguerre Point. One of the last of the big-dam proposals in California, the project was shelved because of poor economics and mounting opposition. Length: 40 miles (105 with the South Fork) Average flow: 2,833 cfs Watershed: 1,338 square miles

Yuba River, with salmon blocked from spawning by Daguerre Point Dam. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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The Yuba’s threatened spring-run Chinook plummeted to a few hundred fish in recent years; Steelhead are likewise threatened, and fallrun Chinook are candidates for endangered listing. Many salmon and all the migrating sturgeon are stopped at Daguerre Point Dam, which blocks 12 miles of spawning habitat. Above, the 261-foot Englebright completely blocks salmon from another 200 miles of habitat. Yet the wild Chinook run here is one of the best and last remaining in California; removal of the dams may offer one of the best opportunities for salmon and Steelhead restoration in the state. Likewise, and in contrast to other Central Valley rivers that are farmed or developed up to the banks, the vacant wasteland of dredgings and undeveloped frontage of the lower Yuba presents a rare opportunity to restore a Central Valley river with flood channels, wetlands, spawning beds, and riparian habitat. The South Yuba River Citizens League seeks restoration along this important reach. WHERE TO GO

The river can be seen at Parks Bar; from Marysville take Hwy. 20 east for 18 miles and turn right on Parks Bar Road. Hammon Grove County Park also lies on the north bank and is reached by turning south off Hwy. 20 about 4 miles west of Parks Bar. The only hiking opportunity near the river is an unmaintained dirt road for a mile down the south side from the Hwy. 20 bridge, though the South Yuba River Citizens League hopes to establish a trail there along the south shore. Anglers flock here for Steelhead in January–February and shad in May; the Hallwood access is a favorite spot; from Marysville, go 7 miles east on Hwy. 20 and turn right on Hallwood Road, go to the end, and walk a quarter mile to the river. Rainbow Trout fishing is popular from Parks Bar Road down to Hallwood. The Yuba makes a desirable 20-mile canoe trip for beginner and intermediate paddlers, with Class I–II riffling current (500– 3,000 cfs) on clear water. Like only a few other Sierra streams (the Feather, American, Mokelumne, and Stanislaus), this one can be run all summer because of releases from dams upstream. Six miles down from Parks Bar, Daguerre Point Dam is a death trap that must be portaged on the left; paddle into an embayment 100 yards above the dam, whose horizon line is dangerously elusive. Eleven miles below Parks Bar, a takeout (with a long carry) is possible at Hallwood Road, but be sure to visit and flag the obscure site beforehand so you recognize it from the river. If boating to Marysville, paddle to the Feather River and then up it a quarter mile to a boat ramp in Riverfront Park. To drive there, take Hwy. 20 to the east side of town, turn south on B Street, right on First, left on Biz Johnson, enter Riverfront Park, and continue to the Feather River boat ramp. From early October to mid-November, paddling from Parks Bar to Hallwood offers the best salmon-watching that I’ve experienced in California. 154

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North Yuba River

Beginning in the red fir forest of Yuba Pass, the North Yuba (not North Fork!) flows west for 45 undammed miles to Bullards Bar Reservoir. Wooded shores and big whitewater lend a surprisingly wild character even with Hwy. 49 nearby. Heavy rain and snow nourish more canyon greenery than along any river to the south. The work of glaciers is evident in the upper river’s broad, U-shaped valley. Below Sierra City, the canyon narrows, showing the incisive erosion of water rather than the broad blade of a glacier. Named for salmon or perhaps Steelhead that can no longer migrate here, Salmon Creek is a high tributary that drains lakes in the shadow of the craggy Sierra Buttes. Extensive gold mining occurred along this river, but the scars are not as stark as along other gold country streams. Length: 61 miles Average flow: 1,247 cfs Watershed: 491 square miles

WHERE TO GO

In the upper basin, Loves Falls is a cataract seen from eastbound Hwy. 49 east of Sierra City. The river then drops into a 30-mile gorge of steep whitewater interspersed with glassy pools favored by anglers after stocked Rainbow Trout. Ten Tahoe National Forest campgrounds or picnic areas—packed on summer weekends—provide access for walking and fishing. As charming as any riverfront town in California, Downieville sits on the north bank at the mouth of the Downie River—now one of the hottest spots for mountain biking in the West.

North Yuba River at Loves Falls, upstream of Sierra City. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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West of there, an 8-mile trail follows the south side from Goodyears Bar down to Rocky Rest Campground; however, most of it is perched well above the shore with a formidable buffer of forest and poison oak. At the lower river, just north of the Hwy. 49 bridge, the 4-mile Canyon Creek Trail leads down through the North Yuba’s remarkable roadless reach to the mouth of the river’s largest tributary. The trail’s first half is an abandoned road, pleasantly wide enough to avoid poison oak, and offers slender views of the river. The second half is a deeply forested path with a few old-growth Douglas-firs, emerging at the confluence with Canyon Creek. Many expert whitewater boaters regard the North Yuba among the top half-dozen challenging rivers commonly run in California. The upper 10 miles (Class V) are a notorious flume on spring runoff (700–3,000 cfs at Goodyears Bar) from Union Flat Campground, 6 miles east of Downieville, to Goodyears Bar. Large rapids cannot be seen from the road. From Goodyears to Carlton Campground, another 9 miles (IV and V) include one or more portages (see Cassady and Calhoun, California Whitewater, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Below Bullards Bar Dam, the North and 56-mile-long Middle Yuba join to form the main stem. Middle Fork headwaters are collected in Jackson Meadows Reservoir; below there the river is mostly inaccessible. Just north of the 49 bridge, at the Oregon Creek picnic area, an atypically languid Middle Yuba can be seen. The river is occasionally run, with portages, by Class V paddlers.

South Yuba River

Though impounded at Spaulding and diminished by water exports, the South Yuba remains a magnificent river with wildness, whitewater, and splendid pools for swimming in the foothills near Nevada City. Restoration could make this an important river for salmon and Steelhead. The South Yuba (not South Fork!) rises in Donner Pass where it catches meltwater from one of the largest snowpacks in America, then plunges down the west slope of the Sierra to the North Yuba above Englebright Reservoir. In upper reaches, I-80 crowds the corridor, but near Spaulding Reservoir the highway bends south. The reservoir diverts water south to the Bear River for hydropower; you can see this massive withdrawal in a canal that crosses Hwy. 20 about 4 miles west of the intersection of Hwy. 20 and I-80. Remaining waters of the South Yuba with its lower tributaries tumble westward through spectacular roadless canyons 1,200 feet deep. The recovering gold-mined river supports native Sacramento pikeminnows, hardheads, Sacramento Suckers, and Rainbow Trout, plus introduced Brown Trout, Green Sunfish, and Smallmouth Bass. Length: 65 miles Average flow: 785 cfs Watershed: 344 square miles

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South Yuba River upstream of Purdon Crossing, north of Nevada City.

The 39-mile-long reach from Spaulding to Englebright was protected in the State Scenic Rivers System after a campaign waged by the South Yuba River Citizens League saved the stream from more dams, including a 600-foot proposal at Edwards Crossing. Since 1984 the state has created California’s premier river-centered state park by acquiring many tracts in the lower, 22-mile, Edwards–Bridgeport reach. WHERE TO GO

Upper sections can be reached at the Rainbow or Big Bend exits of I-80. Anglers’ paths lead to the river, and at a roadside rest west of Rainbow Lodge a trail reaches to the granite-bouldered stream. West of Cisco Grove Exit, Indian Springs Campground hugs the river in the shadow of I-80. Below Spaulding Dam the first access is at Washington Crossing; from Nevada City drive 13 miles east on Hwy. 20, turn left, and go 6 miles. A dirt road continues up the north shore to recreation sites and a trail up Canyon Creek—also dammed above. Downstream from Washington Crossing, a 13-mile hiking and biking trail on the north side follows the canyon to North Bloomfield Road, 1 mile north of Edwards Crossing. To drive to Edwards Crossing from Nevada City, take Rte. 49 north from the Hwy. 20 intersection for 0.4 miles, turn right on North Bloomfield Road, go 0.5 miles to a T, turn right, and go 6 miles. North of Edwards Crossing, North Bloomfield Road continues for 5 miles to Malakoff Diggins State Park—California’s best place to see devastation wreaked by hydraulic mining. A 2-mile trail leads from there to the river. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Back at Edwards, a trail follows the south shore 4 miles down to Purdon Crossing. To drive to Purdon, take Hwy. 49 north from Nevada City for 0.4 miles, turn right on North Bloomfield Road, go 0.5 miles to the T, turn left on Lake Vera Road, and continue 5 miles to Purdon. At a more convenient but busy site, Hwy. 49 bridges the South Yuba 8 miles north of Nevada City with parking on the south side at the historic bridge. From there a northside trail runs upstream. Boulders and gleaming granite bedrock line the river, with superlative swimming holes. Farther downstream, America’s longest single-span covered bridge crosses at Bridgeport; take the Pleasant Valley Road north from Hwy. 20. Trails head upstream and also down to Englebright Reservoir. Anglers fish for stocked Rainbow Trout at many of the accessible sites and especially in the upper river. On springtime runoff and when Spaulding Dam occasionally spills, kayakers paddle an excellent 14-mile Class II–IV run (700–1,500 cfs at the Spaulding Dam release) from Washington to Edwards Crossing with portage of a 12-foot waterfall. From Edwards to Purdon is a 4-mile Class IV–V run (800–3,000 cfs at Hwy. 49) for experts. Purdon to Hwy. 49 is a Class V run with at least four portages, and Hwy. 49 to Bridgeport is a forbiddingly remote 7-mile Class V with portages (1,000–2,000 cfs at Hwy. 49). See Holbek and Stanley, Guide to the Best Whitewater, and Tuthill, “California Creeks.”

Fordyce Creek

This South Yuba tributary is the northernmost exemplar of the Sierra Nevada’s granite-slab and forested wonderland, much like the upper South Yuba would be without the intrusions of I-80, Southern Pacific Railroad, and powerlines. Headwaters churn from Basin Peak, are impounded in Fordyce Reservoir, then roar through a magnificent granite gauntlet with forested interludes to Spaulding Reservoir. To see this remote, north-side tributary to the South Yuba, take I-80 east from the Hwy. 20 exit for 3 miles to the Eagle Lakes exit, turn left, and at the Indian Springs Campground, park on the right at an off-highway-vehicle (OHV) staging area. I started on my mountain bike but soon gave up and walked on the badly chewed OHV route; go north for about a mile to a Y, bear left toward Eagle Lakes, and go another mile to the creek. The trail downstream enters old-growth forest; upstream off-trail walking leads to wonderful river frontage and waterfalls. From the Y, you can instead go right for 1 mile to the creek and then Fordyce Dam. I would avoid weekends when the OHVs are out. Though it’s only for the few, the waterfall- and portage-ridden 10 miles from Fordyce Dam to Spaulding (Class V+) is occasionally kayaked in spring and on summer dam releases. Length: 16 miles Average flow: 134 cfs Watershed: 52 square miles

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Fordyce Creek above Spaulding Reservoir.

Bear River

Just south of the Yuba basin, and tributary to the lower Feather, the Bear River begins at Emigrant Gap near I-80 and heads southwest. This small, highly plumbed stream is dammed three times and de-watered for hydropower. It pulses through a rugged roadless canyon west of Rte. 49, and eases into the Central Valley below Camp Far West Reservoir. Length: 75 miles Average flow: 511 cfs Watershed: 456 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The upper reach can be seen at the Bear River Campground— a popular Placer County park that borders 1.5 miles of river; from Colfax go west on Tokayama Road, which becomes Placer Hills Road. When Rollins Reservoir spills in the winter and spring, a 5-mile section of Class II+ water (450–1,000 cfs) can reportedly be paddled from Ben Taylor Road to Dog Bar Road Bridge. For the put-in, take I-80 to Colfax, follow signs to Old Colfax, go straight on Grass Valley Road, left on Rising Sun Road, and right on Ben Taylor. For the takeout, go to Tokayama Road in Colfax, which becomes Placer Hills Road, then Dog Bar Road. Park on the south side (see Pike, Paddling Northern California, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Martin (Sierra Whitewater) reported a lower 16-mile canoe run (Class I) on high water before irrigation diversions begin in April; he started below a diversion dam a mile below Camp Far West Dam and went to the Feather River. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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American River

The American is the California river. Central in the state’s geography, it’s the waterway of the capital and an urban river showcase—one of the most-used recreational rivers in the nation. Its South Fork has some of the busiest whitewater. This is also where gold was discovered—the event that unleashed the tragic demise of native and natural California. Though heavily dammed and tapped, the American remains an extraordinary stream with wild headwaters and clear water that’s beloved by residents of Sacramento. The main stem begins in the backwaters of Folsom Dam where the North-South fork confluence is impounded. Below Folsom, the river enters the Sacramento urban area and ultimately joins the Sacramento River at Discovery Park. Though now hatchery-based, the American’s Chinook run is considered the fifth most important in California and once accounted for 10 percent of ocean-caught salmon along the California coast. Flowing through the city, the river is lined with levees, but unlike most, these are generally set back from the water’s edge and leave a wide riparian corridor; the river at Paradise Beach (Glenn Hall Park) and elsewhere offers an excellent example of the ecosystem, hydrologic, and recreation advantages of locating levees away from the banks of the river (compared to narrow placement, such as along the Sacramento River upstream from the city). In addition to a recreational trout and salmon fishery, the American supports bird life including Ospreys and Bald Eagles, plus beavers, minks, and otters. A Huck Finn paradise exists here virtually within urban neighborhoods. With many miles of bike, pedestrian, and equestrian trails, the American River Parkway, administered by the city and county, runs along Length: 32 miles (120 miles including the North Fork) Average flow: 3685 cfs Watershed: 2,120 square miles

American River and fisherman below Watt Avenue, Sacramento. 160

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the main stem for 23 miles from Folsom to the Sacramento River. People who swim, walk, bike, picnic, canoe, raft, and inner tube account for 10 million user-days a year. The main-stem American was included in the State Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 1972 and the national system in 1981—the only designated urban river. Though the water looks exceptionally clean for a city, and is adequate for swimming, it’s listed as impaired for mercury, PCBs, and other problems limiting water quality and fish. Industry and urban stormwater both contribute. The flood of 1986 was the largest on record when Folsom Dam releases nearly overtopped the levees. In the wake of that event, the Folsom operation plan was revised and levees upgraded. WHERE TO GO

Dozens of access points in Sacramento have paths, boat ramps, and swimming spots. Fees are charged at most areas if you drive in, but not for walking or biking. A few of the more important sites, from bottom up, are Discovery Park at the confluence with the Sacramento—booming with powerboats on weekends and reached via the west end of Richards Boulevard north of the downtown, then north on Jibboom Street. The excellent Paradise Beach (reached through Glenn Hall Park) is close to center city, has free access, and is the most popular swimming spot, especially for teenagers, but is a long carry for boats. From downtown go 2 miles on H Street; before crossing the river turn left on Carlson Drive, and go to the end. Upstream, a popular access lies on the south side of Watt Avenue bridge, off La Riviera Drive just north of Hwy. 50; also the south side of Sunrise Boulevard bridge. River Bend Park (formerly Goethe Park) is the largest; take Hwy. 50 east to Bradshaw exit and go north, then east on Folsom Boulevard for 1 mile and left on Rod Beaudry Drive. An undeveloped park area of recovering dredge tailings can be seen at Rossmoor Bar and the El Manto access; take Hwy. 50 east to Mather Field Road, go east on Folsom Boulevard for half a mile, left on Coloma Road for 2.3 miles, and left on El Manto Drive to the end. The Sunrise access is reached by taking Sunrise Boulevard north from Hwy. 50 and turning right on the south side of the bridge at the River Parkway sign. Below Nimbus Dam and just below Sailor Bar, salmon can sometimes be seen in late summer or fall; gravel has been added to the river channel here to create spawning habitat where shorelines still show the damage of dredge mining. From Hazel Avenue, north of the river, go west on Winding Way, then south on Illinois Avenue. A bike trail running the parkway length is traveled by commuters and recreational riders—bicyclists, runners, and walkers. Anglers fish for Steelhead in December–March, hatchery salmon in September–November, shad in April–July, Striped Bass on the lower river in April–June, and trout and other fish. Anglers’ paths can be found virtually everywhere. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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The river is one of the most-used in the nation for urban paddling, inner tubes, air mattresses, and you name it. San Juan Rapid is a Class II riffle where the river pours over a clay ledge about 2 miles below the Sunrise Bridge. Another minor Class II rapid appears at Arden, 5 more miles downriver at the lower end of River Bend Park.

North Fork American River

Foaming steeply through narrow wilderness canyons, the North Fork American has trout waters, a wide range of habitat from high elevation to low, and spectacular whitewater only 35 miles from Sacramento. Beginning with snowpacks south of Donner Pass, the upper North Fork drops through Sierra granite and forests, and cuts a 3,500-foot-deep canyon at Royal Gorge, followed by the aptly named Giant Gap, which extends to the Iowa Hill Bridge. There gradient lessens slightly, but rugged canyons continue for a total of 61 dam-free miles to Clementine Reservoir, a mud-filled 5-mile pool built in 1939 to catch silt from gold mining. Passing through chaparral foothills, the river is then joined by the Middle Fork, which is larger and longer, though the river continues to be called the North Fork. The proposed Auburn Dam site lies 3 miles below the confluence, followed by Folsom Reservoir. The North Fork’s remote canyons provide habitat for 238 bird species and imperiled wildlife such as the Foothill Yellow-legged Frog. The river Length: 88 miles Average flow: 818 cfs at Lake Clementine (2,261 cfs below the Middle Fork) Watershed: 1,844 square miles

North Fork American River, Chamberlain Falls. 162

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is also a Wild Trout fishery for 36 miles. Warmer water at lower elevations hosts a native and alien mix of Brown and Rainbow trout, Smallmouth Bass, sunfish, Sacramento Suckers, and Sacramento pikeminnows. In 1972, 48 miles of the North Fork were designated in the California Wild and Scenic Rivers System, stopping a 550-foot dam planned at Giant Gap. Then in 1978, 38 miles from The Cedars to Iowa Hill Bridge were protected in the National Wild and Scenic System, which included a ban on suction dredge gold mining. Yielding to the Auburn Dam proposal, the designation stopped at the Iowa Hill Bridge. The construction of Auburn Dam—planned as a concrete arch 685 feet high—and an associated canal together threatened to deplete the main stem’s cherished flows in Sacramento and to permanently flood 48 miles of wild canyons up the North and Middle forks. A sweet deal for the few, water costing taxpayers $900 per acre-foot to develop would be sold to irrigators for $3.50. After the 1975 Oroville earthquake and the release of federal studies indicating 750,000 people could be imperiled if the dam failed, plans were sensibly put on hold. Safety issues, soaring costs, and environmental losses remained unresolved as Friends of the River, Protect American River Canyons, and other groups fought permutations of Auburn for three decades. After the 1986 flood the proposal resurfaced under the guise of flood control, but opponents proved that levee improvements, floodplain management, and alterations at Folsom Dam would be more economic and effective. In 2008 the State Water Board rescinded the Bureau of Reclamation’s water right for Auburn, nailing another—but not final—nail in the coffin of the uneconomic project. WHERE TO GO

South of the Big Bend exit of I-80, at Loch Leven Lakes, the exhausting Granite Creek Trail descends 5 miles to the bottom of Royal Gorge, where another trail heads upstream for 2 miles before climbing out the southern side. Farther downriver, the American River Trail runs for 6 miles to Mumford Bar. With less walking but more driving, this riverfront trail can be reached via the Mumford Bar or Beacroft Trails 2 miles east of Foresthill (for all these hikes, see the Tahoe National Forest map). A faster way to the river is the Euchre Bar Trail; take I-80 east to Alta exit and go south on Casa Loma Road for 3 miles. A steep 2-mile path leads to a footbridge at the head of Giant Gap and runs 3 miles up the south side. Easier road access and walking along the North Fork can be found for a short distance up or down from the Iowa Hill Bridge; take I-80 to Colfax, head west on Canyon Way, quickly turn left on Colfax-Iowa Hill Road, and go to the bottom. At all these sites anglers fish for Rainbow Trout; downstream reaches also have Smallmouth Bass. Giant Gap extends 14 miles from Euchre Bar to Iowa Hill Road as a Class V expert whitewater run on spring runoff (500–2,000 cfs), which usually ends in June. Below Iowa Hill Bridge, 6-foot Chamberlain Falls highlights difficult Class IV whitewater. Though now SACRAMENTO BASIN

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paddled by many, this reach cannot be taken lightly; several rapids have undercut rocks where swimmers would be at great peril. Five miles below Iowa Hill Bridge, Yankee Jim’s Road (I-80 east to Weimar, then northeast on Canyon Way and right on Yankee Jim’s Road) crosses and marks the beginning of a Class II+ (500–1,200 cfs) springtime and early-summer reach extending 4 miles to Ponderosa Way Bridge (a popular swimming hole), or 9 miles to the backwaters of Clementine Reservoir, reached from Foresthill Road southeast of Auburn. Until late spring the road to upper Clementine is gated, and a 3-mile reservoir paddle is required to reach a ramp. At the lower North Fork it’s now possible to boat through the Auburn Dam site, which was blocked for 30 years by a coffer dam and tunnel until 2008. This Class II–III run can be paddled for 10 miles from the North and Middle forks confluence to Folsom Reservoir. The recommended 200–2,000 cfs runs all year, though in summer the needed release from a Middle Fork dam doesn’t reach the launch until late afternoon. For the put-in, take Rte. 49 south from Auburn to the North Fork, go straight instead of crossing the 49 bridge, and stop under the Old Foresthill Bridge (with arches). To take out, go east on I-80 to the Penryn exit, right on Penryn for 0.5 miles, left on King for 2.4 miles, left on Auburn Folsom Road for 1.3 miles, right on Newcastle Road for 1 mile, and right on Rattlesnake. For more about this and the other American River forks, see The American River, by Protect American River Canyons.

Middle Fork American River

With headwaters in the Granite Chief Wilderness west of Lake Tahoe, the Middle Fork is impounded at French Meadows Reservoir and water is diverted between the Rubicon and Middle Fork for hydropower, with nominal fish releases left in the upper Middle Fork as it courses through wild mountain country. Lower reaches exemplify the utter transformation of the Sierra foothills for mining, as well as their ongoing ecosystem recovery. For example, at Kennebeck Bar, 4 miles above the North Fork confluence, 10,000 people hustled in the gold diggings of the 1800s; nobody lives there today. A river valley that had literally been turned upside down is now recovering with clear water, riparian forests, and chaparral. Yet the recovery lacks the original biological wealth that once existed in this and other gold country rivers, and dams and diversions now channel water out of the stream to supply five power plants. Length: 62 miles Average flow: 1,443 cfs Watershed: 612 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The Western States Trail, once used by Gold Rush pioneers and now popular with horseback riders and hikers from the Pacific Crest Trail to Auburn, passes in and out of the Middle 164

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Fork Canyons, parallels the river for 12 miles, and crosses Hwy. 49 just above the Middle Fork–North Fork confluence. For the intricacies of this and other area trails, see Ferris et al., American River Canyon Hikes. The Middle Fork’s hydropower release is unusual among Sierra foothill streams in remaining at a boatable level all summer (800–2,000 cfs), and so it appeals to expert whitewater paddlers when other rivers are low. A unique problem in this complicated, 25-mile reach, Tunnel Chute is a 30-degree flume followed by a tunnel blasted into sharp rock by miners, and is portaged by many because of unpredictable hazards. Class IV and easier water is mixed with a mandatory difficult carry at Ruck-a-Chucky Rapid, followed by a Class II reach and then another portage at Class V Murderer’s Bar Rapid. For more on this complex run, see Cassady and Calhoun, Holbek and Stanley, and Tuthill, “California Creeks.”

Rubicon River

This largest tributary to the Middle Fork American begins in the Crystal Range of the Sierra. Though flows become heavily manipulated, the scenic river crosses remote terrain. The infamous Hell Hole Dam failure occurred here: under construction in 1964 by the Placer County Water Agency, the dam broke during a flood and a 75-foot wall of water scoured the canyon for 34 miles, destroying bridges down to Folsom. The dam was promptly rebuilt and now diverts water into power plants. The river’s high-country origins can be seen by backpacking to the Rockbound Valley Trail in Desolation Wilderness. Below Hell Hole Dam, the 10-mile Rubicon Trail follows the depleted river through its otherwise-wilderness canyon down to Eleven Pines Road; drive to Georgetown and then east 24 miles on the paved Georgetown-Wentworth Road, then left on Eleven Pines to the river at the bottom end of this trail (Ellicott Bridge). The Rubicon is a noted Wild Trout fishery. A Class V kayak run with waterfall portages is boated by experts when tributaries are running or when water rarely spills from Hell Hole Dam (see Holbek and Stanley, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Length: 58 miles Average flow: 798 cfs Watershed: 312 square miles

South Fork American River

Boatable all year, the South Fork is in many ways the ultimate paddling river in California and one of the hotspots of recreational whitewater nationwide. The river begins near Echo Lake amid granite slopes of Desolation Wilderness. Below, multiple dams divert water into 11 hydroelectric plants, but the Length: 87 miles Average flow: 1,457 cfs Watershed: 844 square miles

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South Fork American River, Troublemaker Rapid above Coloma.

flow is eventually funneled back on a schedule that allows for paddling year-round. In two reaches, spanning Chili Bar to Folsom Reservoir, 130,000 people per year enjoy one of the most popular whitewater rivers in the West. Because of fluctuating levels and the trapping of critical sand and gravel by upstream dams, the South Fork is a poor fishery. California gold was first found along the South Fork at Sutter’s Mill in Coloma in 1848. Dams and diversions proposed in the 1970s would have flooded both popular whitewater reaches but were defeated. At one point in the controversy, El Dorado County tried to ban rafting. Now a model of effective recreation management by the county and BLM, the South Fork is recommended by BLM for National Wild and Scenic River designation. WHERE TO GO

The upper river tumbles along Hwy. 50 from the Sierra crest to Pollock Pines with many Forest Service recreation sites. A trail reaches the top of Lovers’ Leap—a prominent granite dome west of Twin Bridges. Below Pollock Pines the river is relatively inaccessible in its complex of gorges and power dams. Then at Chili Bar—a major access north of Placerville—a path runs downstream. The easiest place to see the lower South Fork is at Coloma State Park, along Hwy. 49 northwest of Placerville, with public land along the water and a replica of Sutter’s Mill. As a result of land acquisitions by the American River Conservancy, the 35-mile South Fork American River Trail follows much of the lower gorge on the north side between Greenwood Creek (3 miles northwest of Coloma) and Folsom Reservoir. Rainbow Trout are 166

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caught at Coloma, but anglers prefer a popular stocked site along Hwy. 50 near Riverton, 7 miles east of Pollock Pines. Several upper South Fork reaches are run by expert paddlers, including the Class V Kyburz run from Indian Falls to Peavine Ridge Road. Below there an extremely popular 6-mile reach from Chili Bar to Coloma has excellent Class III–IV rapids (1,000–4,000 cfs at Chili Bar), challenging intermediate and advanced kayakers and rafters. Commercial rafting companies offer trips through these rollicking rapids, and weekends are crowded. Troublemaker Rapid is a difficult drop that can be seen from a private resort just upstream from Coloma. To reach Chili Bar, take Hwy. 49 north from Placerville, bear right at a Y, and follow Rte. 193 to the river. To reach Coloma, drive north on Rte. 49 from Placerville. Access is also good at the county’s Lotus Park downstream from Coloma; take Hwy. 50 west from Sacramento to Shingle Springs-Ponderosa exit, turn left on Ponderosa, then right on North Shingle Road, and go 11 miles to the park (fees at all sites). For 4 miles from Coloma State Park to Camp Lotus (downstream from the county’s Lotus Park) the river offers an ideal Class II paddle. Camp Lotus (fees) provides an excellent campground, swimming area, and paths to the river; from Hwy. 50 take North Shingle Road 10 miles, turn left on Bassi Road, then right at the sign. Below there, Class III–IV rapids compose the “Gorge” run—exciting whitewater for 10 miles to Salmon Falls Bridge in Folsom Reservoir. The big challenge is Satan’s Cesspool, formed by ledges of dark amphibolite and gabbro. To reach the takeout, follow 49 north from Coloma 8 miles and go left on Salmon Falls Road to the bridge. As of this writing, an inexpensive shuttle bus for Chili Bar–Folsom boaters is available (see http://theriverstore.com). Silver Creek (not Silver Fork) is a South Fork tributary that enters the river north of Pollock Pines. Just above Ice House Reservoir, Silver Creek’s South Fork descends 600 feet through a stairstep of waterfalls, run by a few expert kayakers when runoff declines in early summer. To see this granite-sculpted watercourse, take Hwy. 50 about 20 miles east of Placerville, turn left at Riverton, and take Ice House Road to Ice House Reservoir, park at the upper north side, and scramble up the creek.

Pyramid Creek

This eye-catching tributary to the upper South Fork American flows through the Desolation Wilderness and plunges over Horsetail Falls, followed by granite ledges to a pine-filled valley. Horsetail is one of the Sierra’s most magnificent cataracts outside Yosemite and can be seen in the distance from Hwy. 50, 6 miles west of Echo Summit. The creek has been threatened by a hydropower proposal, and the Forest Service has found it eligible for National Wild and Scenic River designation. Length: 4 miles Average flow: 22 cfs Watershed: 9 square miles

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Park along Hwy. 50 at Twin Bridges (2 miles east of Strawberry Lodge), and follow use-paths to the base of the falls. A rugged, steep scramble up the granite pitch to the west of the falls can take the careful and competent climber to magnificent high country collecting runoff from Pyramid Peak—the snowy Sierra landmark seen on clear days from Sacramento.

Silver Fork American River

Shaded by firs, pines, and cedars, this beautiful stream flows through deep green pools and rapids over granite bedrock. Caples Creek is the main source, dropping from Carson Pass to a reservoir along Hwy. 88 before joining Oyster Creek to form the Silver Fork. This tumbles through forested elevations to a road-accessible valley. After a final cascading reach, the Silver Fork joins the South Fork American a mile below Kyburz. Few streams have a better early-summer display of Indian rhubarb, growing directly in the riffling streambed with broad leaves and tall pink flowers through the road-accessible reach above Kyburz. If you’re in hot Sacramento and want a watery hit of the Sierra Nevada’s green and granite, this is the closest place to find it. Take Hwy. 50 east to Kyburz and then south on Silver Fork Road, which in 2 miles begins to parallel the stream. Paths follow along the northeast bank. At a bridge 7 miles up from Kyburz, a trail continues for several road-free miles. Anglers catch stocked Rainbow Trout. Expect Length: 20 miles Average flow: 130 cfs Watershed: 105 square miles

Silver Fork American River with Indian rhubarb, south of Kyburz. 168

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crowds on weekends at the campground and road. A short, seldom-run Class III whitewater reach in early summer parallels the road and ends at the campground. Go no farther, because the bottom falls out of this stream on its last pitch in waterfalls to the South Fork.

Cache Creek

The highest volume river on the east side of the Coast Ranges in California, Cache Creek tumbles through highly fractured, complex rock formations with a mix of dry forest and chaparral. The stream is surprisingly remote for its nearness to both Sacramento and the Bay Area. It has the state’s largest wintering population of Bald Eagles south of the Klamath, a notable assemblage of native fishes, and the closest raftable whitewater to the Bay Area. Headwaters lie in ancient Clear Lake, where tectonic subsidence of the bed, as a graben, has kept pace with silt buildup for 500,000 years. The lake’s previous outlet to Cache Creek was blocked by lava, forcing the lake to drain from its opposite side to the Russian River via Cold Creek (now a dry channel in summer). But then a landslide blocked that outlet, raising the lake until it spilled once again down Cache Creek. With difficult access, nearly unrunnable rapids, and algae-infested water from the pathetically eutrophic Clear Lake, Cache Creek above its 39-mile-long North Fork is seldom visited, and below there the main stem cuts southeast through an 18-mile roadless reach—rare in the Coast Length: 87 miles Average flow: 963 cfs Watershed: 1,089 square miles

Cache Creek’s oak savanna with moonlight. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Range. Below Bear Creek, Hwy. 16 parallels the olive-brown river through a rugged lower canyon, ending at Capay Valley near Rumsey. Lower Cache Creek is diverted 12 miles below Rte. 57 at the Capay Diversion Dam and withers totally before reaching the Sacramento River. Dramatically upended sedimentary rock can be seen in Rumsey Canyon and is part of the Great Valley Sequence of outcrops from an ancient ocean bed. Grassy hills, chaparral, and oaks predominate in this low-elevation area of temperate winters, verdant springtimes, and hot summers. Bald Eagles can be seen October–April; a few nest in riverfront trees mostly above Bear Creek. Mixed habitat supports 154 species of birds plus Black Bears and the state’s largest herd of free-ranging Tule Elk, dating to a 1922 introduction of 21 animals. Cache Creek and tributary Bear Creek host strong populations of native warm-water fish and once had Steelhead and lampreys that migrated to Clear Lake. Much of the canyon is publicly owned and administered by the BLM, which found 32 miles eligible for the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. The canyon reach was protected in the State Wild and Scenic System in 2005, halting Yolo County Water District plans for a dam. In 2006, 27,245 acres were designated the Cache Creek Wilderness. Combining BLM and other public lands, the local conservation organization Tuleyome proposes a National Conservation Area centered on the creek. Tributary Bear Creek flows through an oak savanna valley, especially beautiful in springtime. The Cowboy Camp BLM access is 1 mile south of the Rte. 29 and 16 intersection. WHERE TO GO

From Woodland, take Hwy. 16 northwest. Above Rumsey the road follows the river with pullouts. Three Yolo County parks offer camping, picnicking, and access for 2 miles below Bear Creek. The Redbud Trail begins at the North Fork BLM access 8 miles east of Clearlake Oaks on Hwy. 20, climbs for a mile, then descends to a delightful oak grove in the wilderness canyon. The trail continues for 5 miles to Wilson Valley but requires a ford—hazardous or impossible in high water. The lower creek has catfish and Smallmouth Bass fishing. Cache Creek offers the only spring and early-summer whitewater boating in the Coast Range south of the Trinity with an excellent 19-mile paddle—Class II plus two Class III rapids through wildlands. Put in at the BLM North Fork access 8 miles southeast of Clearlake Oaks. Here, from May through August, upstream dam releases from the North Fork’s Indian Valley Reservoir create a runnable but brushy introduction for 2 miles to the main stem—beware of logs and strainers—followed by bigger water. Beware of a low bridge 1 mile below the confluence. BLM land is available for camping. A more popular Class II–III run with bigger whitewater and sharp sedimentary bedrock extends for 9 miles from Bear Creek to the Rumsey bridge (500–4,000 cfs at Rumsey), with access along Hwy. 16. This is 170

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enjoyed by commercial rafters, kayakers, inner tubers, and canoeists at the lower flows, and is some of the state’s most popular whitewater because of dependable volume and closeness to cities. A low-water bridge must be portaged. Downstream from Rumsey, Class I water flows 7 miles to Guinda bridge; beware of fences. Cache Creek can swell to 5,000 cfs and more with winter rain; avoid high flows and enjoy fascinating floodwatching of big-water rapids from roadside pulloffs.

Putah Creek

This stream is best known for a short but beautiful riparian reach west of Davis and Winters. Far above, headwaters flow from Rte. 29 to Berryessa Reservoir through a roadless canyon of the Mayacamas Mountains of the Coast Range, where abandoned mercury mines dating to the Gold Rush still pollute the stream. Monticello Dam forms California’s seventh-largest reservoir (1.6 million acre-feet) on this comparatively small stream. Coldwater releases then penetrate the scenic corridor of willows, cottonwoods, and walnuts before being diverted. Nominal flows continue past the southern end of the U.C. Davis campus, where one channel was channelized and another abandoned. Once a distributary system in a swamp, the lower creek’s remnants now empty into Yolo Bypass of the Sacramento River. After decades of de-watering, flows were restored to 22 miles from below the Putah Diversion Dam (Solano Lake), near Winters, to the Yolo Length: 86 miles Average flow: 347 cfs Watershed: 433 square miles

Putah Creek and black willow below Monticello Dam. SACRAMENTO BASIN

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Bypass. Native fishes have recovered with some of the best diversity in the Central Valley—Sacramento pikeminnow, Tule Perch, blackfish, Rainbow Trout, Hitch, and two species of sculpins, along with a few Chinook salmon and lamprey. The Putah Creek Council led this effort in 1990 with a significant court case: seeking enforcement of the California Fish and Game Code, which states that fish must be maintained in “good condition” below a dam, the Council argued for restoration at individual, population, and community levels in order to sustain native fishes. The court required the Solano County Water Agency to release enough water to keep a living stream for the entire 22 miles and to provide spawning and rearing flows for native fishes. The agency voluntarily provides a pulse flow in fall for salmon. WHERE TO GO

To see the restored section below Putah Diversion Dam, take Rte. 128 to Winters, turn south on Railroad Avenue, and go to the downtown park. Walk across the pedestrian bridge, find the path under the south abutment, and stroll downstream a quarter mile through riparian forest. For 5 miles below Monticello Dam, turnouts along Rte. 128 (west from Winters) and four county recreation sites include handicapped access to the streamfront. This section is good for winter birding, with Buffleheads, goldeneyes, Wood Ducks, and Mallards thriving on the algae-thick waterway, plus Black Phoebes, dippers, and kingfishers. This section below Monticello Dam is great for catch-andrelease trout fishing. An unusual Wild Trout fishery, it lies at a low elevation and near both Sacramento and East Bay cities. After the general trout season ends in November, fly-fishing is still allowed, and large Rainbows are caught. Above Berryessa, the upper creek is occasionally paddled during the rainy season by expert kayakers, but with onerous complications (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Below Monticello Dam, a short Class II run, with log hazards, is possible along Rte. 128; respect and avoid anglers who may feel a bit proprietary here.

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SAN JOAQU I N BASIN ORE GON

I D AH O

5 101

395

Redding

99 5

NEV AD A

1

80

20

Sacramento

101

50

80 49

395

Stockton

San Francisco

San Jose

99

1

San Joaquin Basin Fresno

Salinas 5 101

395 99

1

Bakersfield

15

Barstow 40 101

5

Santa Barbara San Bernardino

Los Angeles 10

5

N

0 0

San Diego 100 miles 100 kilometers

8

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Reno 80

N E V AD A 99

50 80

NF

49

ne um ke l o M

kelumne s k Mo lau k Stanis us a l n is

R

395

Sta

5

R

NF

C

50

es u mn os

M Fk

S Fk Stanislaus Clavey

R

Lodi Stockton New Melones Dam

Dana Fk

sR nislau

Lyell Fk

Don Pedro Dam

49

Tuolumne R

Modesto

McClure Dam

oaq nJ

Sa

99

Mer

ced

S Fk Merced

MF k

Sta

R NF

uin

S Fk

k

R

Merced

N Fk

5

k M F S Fk Kings R Marble Fk Kaweah

Friant Dam

Fresno N Fk

King s

99

R

oa

San J

quin R

101

MF

395

k

h S Fk MF

k Tule

5

ern

R

S Fk K

Tule

N Fk Kern

a

Visalia Kawe

1 99

nR

46

Ker

Bakersfield N

San Joaquin Basin 0 174

0

101

50 miles RIVER PROFILES

50 kilometers

5

Isabella Dam

Cosumnes River

Wedged into mid-terrain between the higher elevation American and Mokelumne basins, this watershed does not reach up to the Sierra belt of greatest snowfall, and so the stream is smaller. After winding through miles of forested mountains, the 44-milelong Middle and 49-mile North Fork join just above the Hwy. 49 bridge, 14 miles south of Placerville. The main stem then crosses foothill grasslands to the Central Valley and enters the delta at the far-northern extent of the San Joaquin Basin. The Cosumnes is often cited as the only dam-free Sierra river. Yet the South Fork Merced, Middle Fork Kings, and South Fork Kings are also dam-free, and several diversion dams block the Cosumnes, including a sizable one near Rancho Murieta. Notably, however, the river lacks large storage reservoirs and has an unregulated flow with a natural cycle of seasonal runoff extending into the Central Valley, which no other river still has. Middle and lower elevations have isolated reaches that retain much of their native fish diversity, but Redeye Bass have infested much of the stream with consequences to salmon and other natives. This is one of the top 12 streams in California listed for the conservation of biodiversity in Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America. Just above the delta, the Nature Conservancy’s Cosumnes River Preserve of 46,000 acres was set aside with help from Ducks Unlimited Length: 54 miles (103 miles with the North Fork) Average flow: 914 cfs Watershed: 903 square miles

Cosumnes River at The Nature Conservancy preserve. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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and public agencies. Some levees were removed, and the site is one of few in the Central Valley where floods still regularly nourish wetlands. It’s an excellent place to see Sandhill Cranes, December–January. Though the basin has been spared the intrusion of dams, it has not escaped sprawl; subdivisions south of Sacramento have lowered the water table 55 feet through unregulated groundwater pumping, with corresponding losses in river flows. A 10-mile section near Hwy. 99 now completely dries up, putting native fish at risk. WHERE TO GO

Trails at the Cosumnes Preserve offer rare opportunities to see what the riparian, wetland, and oak savanna habitats of the original Central Valley were once like. Birding is excellent; guided tours are scheduled. Take Hwy. 99 south from Sacramento, north of Gault turn west on Twin Cities Road, and in 8 miles turn left on Franklin Boulevard. Canoeing in tidal sloughs here, you can see a reasonably intact—and therefore rare—part of the Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta. To see the lower Cosumnes by canoe, Park at the Preserve and launch in Willow Slough. After this joins the Cosumnes, paddle upstream (east), pass several inlets and then a straightaway with tall oaks that leads to Wood Duck Slough and its mature oaks and junglethicket of vines. Higher up, some reaches of the Cosumnes and its Middle Fork are paddled but involve Class IV–V rapids, portages, waterfalls, tree blockages, diversion dams, and perhaps surly landowners. Even in the foothills below Hwy. 49, boating surprisingly requires portages and negotiation of severe rapids.

Mokelumne River

This fine small river of the central Sierra curves through high snowy forests, granite canyons, and foothill reaches with a mix of robust rapids along with dam-and-pipeline interruptions. The North Fork and smaller Middle Fork and South Fork unite in the foothills, followed by Pardee and Comanche reservoirs, a long valley reach, and a dam near Lodi. Throughout the basin, 15 dams block the river and its tributaries. Plagued by problems in the delta, the lower Mokelumne’s hatchery salmon run plummeted from 16,000 fall-run fish in 2005 to 412 in 2008, then rebounded somewhat in 2010. About 34 percent of the lower river is exported by pipeline to East Bay cities, and others also tap the stream. A superb recreational river remains in the foothills near Jackson, but it’s threatened by the East Bay Municipal Utility District’s plan to expand Pardee Reservoir and flood 2 more miles of river. Instead, the Foothill Conservancy promotes designation as a National Wild and Scenic River. Length: 79 miles (145 miles with the North Fork) Average flow: 1,858 cfs Watershed: 1,917 square miles

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Mokelumne River along the Electra Road south of Jackson.

WHERE TO GO

For the choice visit to the Mokelumne, go to Jackson, head south 3 miles on Hwy. 49, turn east on the narrow but paved Electra Road, and drive upstream 3 miles to its end. Trout fishing is popular at pullouts, as is swimming, picnicking, walking, and running. An auto tour of the middle basin is easily done by first visiting the Electra reach and then taking Hwy. 49 south 3 miles to Mokelumne Hill; turn east on Rte. 26, and within 20 miles bridge the lower South, Middle, and North forks. Pullouts at each connect with short paths to the water where you can stroll along these lovely shaded streams; the South Fork is my favorite. To check out the lower river, stop at Magee County Park; from Hwy. 12 at Clements turn north on Mackville Road and go a mile. Important to California paddlers far beyond its short length, the 3-mile Electra section is one of few Class II+ (with one Class III rapid) paddling runs in the foothills (500–3,000 cfs at the Pardee inflow). The river runs well all summer and has served as the forgiving training ground for generations of kayakers and canoeists. The shuttle is easily bicycled or run. A surprisingly powerful Class III rapid lies just downstream from the 49 bridge. Put in at the end of the Electra Road. Parking fills on weekends. Take out at Middle Bar; from Hwy. 49 a mile south of Jackson, turn right on Middle Bar Road and go 3 miles to the upper backwater of Pardee Dam. Below Camanche Dam the Mokelumne offers a pleasant 4-mile (Class I) float through riparian woods mixed with ranches and homes to Magee Park. Logs and brush can be hazards. This runs year-round SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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with good birding, and a short shuttle is easily bicycled. Stocked trout along with bass can be caught, and hatchery salmon might be seen September–November. With a thin but green riparian corridor and the clearest water among all San Joaquin tributaries in the Central Valley, the lower Mokelumne could be a classic, extended valley float, but public access is nominal along the lower 50 miles. A takeout is available for fee at an RV park just off Hwy. 99 north of Turner Road; below there, the 15-foot Woodbridge Dam appears to be thoroughly fenced and unnegotiable (good for keeping poachers away from the fish ladder but bad or impossible for portaging). The delta reach, with its “South” and “North” fork distributaries, can be accessed at the New Hope Bridge, west of Thornton on J11, at Wimpy’s Marina (fees), but with a muddy tidal pulse, weedy levees, and farmland all around, the delta is mostly a place for motorboats.

North Fork Mokelumne River

Highlight of the Mokelumne basin, the upper North Fork is the gorgeous stream seen along Hwy. 4 in the Ebbetts Pass area. The river sojourns through Hermit Valley and then disappears in a forbidding 25-mile granite gorge that plunges to Salt Springs Reservoir. Below the dam, the river travels through another 18-mile canyon, where the Bear River enters from the north (this otherwise wild stream is blocked by Lower Bear River Reservoir, with Length: 66 miles Average flow: 460 cfs Watershed: 373 square miles

North Fork Mokelumne River along Rte. 4 above Hermit Valley. 178

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impoverished flows below). Downstream from the confluence, the North Fork riffles past the forested Devil’s Nose to a diversion dam and then Tiger Creek Afterbay Dam, where water is again extracted. Below there the North Fork and 27-mile-long South Fork form the main stem. In the 1980s a dam proposal at Devil’s Nose met opposition and was shelved. Subsequent relicensing for the Mokelumne hydroelectric system in 2001 established an improved flow regime below Salt Springs that mimics the natural hydrograph—high in late spring and low in summer. The Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) have found 37 miles of the North Fork below Salt Springs, plus the main stem to below Hwy. 49, eligible as National Wild and Scenic Rivers, and the Foothill Conservancy champions designation. WHERE TO GO

Headwaters can be seen by hiking on a four-wheel-drive road that runs south from Rte. 4 a mile west of Ebbetts Pass. Downstream lies Hermit Valley, with fishing paths and a campground. Pacific Creek, entering from the south 1 mile east of the campground, is a wild tributary reached by trail. A path and bushwhacking route descends the North Fork’s granite canyon from Hermit Valley. I’ve gone only a mile, but with care one can rock-scramble farther. One north-side tributary, 11-mile Summit City Creek, is among the northern Sierra’s more remote yet trail-accessible streams, best reached from the Forestdale Divide via a four-wheel-drive route 5 miles south of Red Lake Reservoir on the east side of Carson Pass (Hwy. 88). The bottom of the North Fork’s upper canyon can be seen via trail from Salt Springs Dam. To visit this remote area and the canyon that was threatened by Devil’s Nose Dam, drive east from Jackson on Hwy. 88 for 33 miles, turn right on the paved Ellis Road, and go 20 miles to Salt Springs Dam. A trail runs east to the head of the reservoir and then up the canyon for 12 miles before splitting into north and south routes. Below the dam a remote but road-accessible riverfront has campgrounds and anglers’ paths. A 17-mile Class IV–V expert reach begins near Mokelumne River campground and runs to Tiger Creek Powerhouse with one portage just upstream of the takeout, runnable only in high spring flows and during scheduled spring boating releases.

Stanislaus River

Draining the central Sierra, the Stanislaus basin includes forested headwaters, granite-lined canyons, and wild reaches that offer enticing recreation opportunities, though 14 large dams have been built throughout the watershed. The main stem begins at the confluence of the Middle and North forks, 1 mile above Clarks Flat. Length: 94 miles (145 miles with the Middle Fork) Average flow: 1,624 cfs Watershed: 1,169 square miles

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Stanislaus River in the Central Valley 3 miles below Oakdale.

Below New Melones Dam, Tullock and Goodwin Dams immediately follow, but then the Stanislaus flows again, first with dangerous rapids in Goodwin Canyon and then through 70 miles of mostly gentle water that’s heavily floated and visited along a string of waterfront parks. The lower river is one of few in the San Joaquin Basin that still has fall-run Chinook with nominal hatchery influence. A few hundred survivors spawn below Goodwin Dam; agricultural levees and down-cutting have eliminated habitat below. Before 1980, the Stanislaus from Camp Nine to Parrotts Ferry was the most popular paddling river in the West with 9 miles of stellar rapids, idyllic campsites, spectacular scenery, archaeological sites, and tributaries such as Rose Creek with waterfalls and unmatched swimming holes. This was the deepest limestone canyon on the West Coast, but the 625-foot-tall New Melones Dam was planned in the 1960s. Whitewater paddler and biologist Jerry Meral founded Friends of the River in 1973 in an effort to halt the dam, but after the most intense effort ever to save a river, the reservoir was filled in 1980. Though the wild river was flooded, this was the last dam fight at the epic scale in America that was lost. WHERE TO GO

The closest one can get to seeing what disappeared behind New Melones Dam is at Clark Flat, just above the reservoir, though this site offers just a hint of the natural wonders that were once seen in the canyon below. Take Hwy. 4 east of Angels Camp 4 miles to Vallecito, turn right toward Columbia for 1 mile, turn left on Camp Nine Road, drive 9 miles on narrow pavement, stay on the north side at the 180

RIVER PROFILES

Stanislaus River, Mother Rapid, before inundation by New Melones Dam.

bridge, and go to the end. During dry years the level of New Melones is drawn down, exposing some of the normally flooded river at the bridge below Clark Flat. The massive blockage of New Melones Dam can be seen by taking Hwy. 108 west from Sonora to Jamestown, continue 8 miles, and turn north at the sign. The lower river has the premier network of public parks and access areas in the Central Valley, except for Sacramento’s much shorter American River Parkway. A dozen public sites were established as “mitigation” for recreational losses incurred by New Melones Dam. Most have paths and boat ramps; some have campgrounds. Though small and isolated, the parks offer at least an inkling of what the original riparian forest along Central Valley rivers was like before agriculture and development encroached comprehensively. A large park at Knights Ferry has trails, beaches, and access for the popular float below. From Oakdale drive 12 miles east on Hwy. 120 and turn north to Knights Ferry. Downstream, Orange Blossom Park sits on the north shore; from Oakdale take Hwy. 108 east for 3.6 miles and turn north on Orange Blossom Road to the park. The Oakdale access lies on the north shore via River and Liberini roads. Downstream at the town of Riverbank, Jacob Meyers Park lies on the north side, west of Sante Fe Avenue (J7). South of Escalon, McHenry Avenue Park has trails to the SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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river; take J6 south and turn west on River Road. At Ripon, a short path lies on the northeast side of the Hwy. 99 bridge. The best spot on the lower Stanislaus, 258-acre Caswell Memorial State Park lies 10 river miles below Ripon, with one of the paramount riparian forests in the Central Valley. Three miles of trails wind through the gallery of Fremont cottonwoods, black willows, California black walnuts, valley oaks, and ashes. Several beaches offer swimming, and a shaded campground sits atop a high bank. From Hwy. 120 south of Manteca, take Manteca Road south 3 miles, go east on Ripon Road 2 miles and south on Austin Road. At the San Joaquin confluence, River End Park lies on the north side; take Hwy. 120 west from Manteca, turn south on J3 (Airport Way) for 5 miles, left on Avenue D, and right on Two Rivers Road. Fishing for Channel and white catfish is popular throughout. Striped Bass run in the fall, and all year anglers cast for bass, bullheads, bluegills, carp, and Black Crappies, along with native Sacramento pikeminnows. Though the legendary whitewater from Camp Nine to Parrotts Ferry is flooded by New Melones, consecutive drought years such as 1990–1991 can result in draw-downs that expose part of the 9-mile canyon with challenging Class III–IV rapids once again. The “dead zone” and bathtub ring formed by the dam is profoundly ugly, but the rapids reemerge with hydraulics almost identical to pre-reservoir years, and the rare trip offers a poignant experience showing what was lost. The reach from Goodwin Dam (Tulloch Road) to Knights Ferry offers the only whitewater (Class III–V) remaining on the main stem, but it’s deceptively dangerous because of undercut honeycombed rocks with high entrapment potential in turbulent current, and portages are difficult, especially for the first rapid. The best way to see this reach is via paths to cliff-top views on the south side; from Hwy. 120 east of Oakdale, turn north toward Goodwin Dam and get out to look where the road nears the canyon rim. With cold, clear water released from New Melones, easy access, and no dams, the lower Stanislaus is the finest lengthy reach of river in the southern Central Valley that can be floated all summer; rafting, inner-tubing, canoeing, and swimming draw people from the hot valley towns. Knights Ferry to Oakdale is 18 miles of Class I with the sometimes difficult Class II Russian Rapids just below the put-in (portage possible on left). Mostly Class I water follows to the San Joaquin. Volcanic cliffs reveal the geologic history of the foothills but soon flatten as the river enters the Central Valley. Here the stream is generally entrenched beneath 10- to 20-foot banks. Though only a fraction of its original extent, a riparian forest borders the river for much of this reach, and even when it’s only one tree wide, it creates a greenway from the boater’s perspective. Litter and graffiti have increased in recent years and get worse the lower you go. Many of the banks—especially below Ripon—have been riprapped with cement debris or rock; much of this is covered with mats of Himalayan blackberry, red osier, grapevines, and alders. Birding is excellent, with 182

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Wood Ducks, Ospreys, herons, and songbirds. Canoes can be dragged around a weir about 3 miles below Riverbank. Camping is possible in the scattered parks, and on islands and floodplains, though with the high banks and private land, I’ve resorted to sleeping in my canoe here, tied to a tree. Don’t leave vehicles overnight. Summer releases are boosted to 1,500 cfs in October to aid salmon, incidentally making floating easier; without the crowds, autumn is a great time to do this worthwhile trip.

North Fork Stanislaus River

This river pours through a stunning mix of wild headwaters followed by beautiful forested middle elevations and severe foothill cascades. The river aims west to its confluence with the Middle Fork 2 miles above New Melones Reservoir. Headwaters tumble out of the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness north of Rte. 4 but are soon impounded in back-to-back Utica and Union dams. Nearby Spicer Reservoir on tributary Highland Creek, completed in the late 1980s—was one of the last dam and diversion projects built on a California river. Archaeologic discoveries in the now-flooded area were believed at the time to be the oldest evidence of a human structure in North America. Below the dams the river continues 30 miles past gleaming cliffs and forests of fir, pine, and cedar. Several bridges cross, but no roads parallel the shores. Below Calaveras Big Trees State Park, the North Fork presses Length: 43 miles Average flow: 439 cfs Watershed: 272 square miles

North Fork Stanislaus River upstream of Sourgrass Bridge. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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into an impassable canyon of chaparral, house-sized boulders, and waterfalls. The Forest Service has recommended designation in the National Wild and Scenic River System. WHERE TO GO

To reach the upper river, take Hwy. 4 to Lake Alpine and continue 4 miles farther to Stanislaus Meadow, then hike 1 mile south. Downstream, on the south side of Sourgrass Bridge, excellent hikes can be taken along the forested riverfront with rapids and granite bedrock; from Arnold continue east on Hwy. 4 for 5 miles to Dorrington, turn south on Forest Service Route 52 (Boards Crossing Road), go 2.5 miles, and bear left to Sourgrass. Boards Crossing is a similar site downstream; from Dorrington turn south on 52, go 2.5 miles, and bear right. Farther downstream, at Calaveras Big Trees State Park, magnificent sugar pines, incense cedars, and ponderosa pines grow along the river, and paths follow it from the State Park bridge, 4 miles south of Hwy. 4. The rugged canyon of the lower North Fork can be reached by bolt-rattling dirt roads or by walking to Candy Rock; from Murphys, take Hwy. 4 east 6 miles to Hathaway Pines, and go south on Forest Service 4N03. All these sites offer access for Rainbow Trout fishing. Sourgrass Bridge to Calaveras Big Trees State Park is an excellent 5-mile Class IV–V run for expert paddlers (500–2,000 cfs at Avery). This begins only below the dangerous tumult at the Sourgrass Bridge; the unrunnable rapid dates to the flood of 1997 when the old bridge was mangled and thrust downstream. Unlike typical Sierra whitewater runs, which flow through chaparral at lower elevations, this one plummets through evergreen forests with white granite lining the shores and white water frothing into transparent green pools (commercial trips available).

Middle Fork Stanislaus River

Though the Middle Fork is dammed in two of its most spectacular reaches, remaining sections are breathtaking. Emigrant Wilderness headwaters are the virtual northern extension of Yosemite National Park—a wonderland of granite, volcanic rock, highcountry meadows, lakes, and tumbling flumes of whitewater. Below there, the 1.5-mile Relief Reservoir is formed by one of the highest major dams in the Sierra, but Kennedy Creek—the other headwaters arm—flows undammed to the confluence above Kennedy Meadows. A third headwaters branch, Deadman Creek, is paralleled by Hwy. 108 in its spectacular route over Sonora Pass. Below Kennedy Meadows, 108 parallels the Middle Fork for a delightful 7 miles, then turns away as the Clark Fork joins from the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. Below, the roadless Middle Fork enters Donnell Reservoir; Length: 47 miles (51 miles with Summit Creek) Average flow: 613 cfs Watershed: 353 square miles

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Middle Fork Stanislaus River above Pigeon Flat.

from a highway overlook the flatwater can be seen flooding the sides of granite domes as one might imagine in a smaller but impounded Yosemite. Depleted by hydroelectric diversions, the river below Donnell drops 7 miles to Beardsley Reservoir and then another 15 to the North Fork. WHERE TO GO

The Middle Fork can be toured by backpacking to the headwaters of Kennedy, Summit, and Relief creeks—all magnificent, though requiring 3 thoroughly horse-traveled miles above the Kennedy Meadows stables. The 7 roaded miles below Kennedy Meadows offer opportunities to get out and stroll along the river or explore the intricacies of miniature canyons. A striking gorge above Pigeon Flat is hidden from the road but reached with an easy scramble. Below this reach, Forest Service 7N83 turns north from 108 and follows the Clark Fork upstream for 7 miles to Iceberg Meadow, where trails continue in headwaters wilderness. The confluence of the Middle Fork-Clark Fork can be reached with a charming woodland walk below the Middle Fork bridge on the right side. In extreme droughts, I’ve bushwhacked from there to the inlet of Donnell Reservoir and seen the Stanislaus’s amazing flush of whitewater that’s normally flooded. Below Donnell Dam, the Middle Fork’s mileage is nearly inaccessible except for roads servicing the hydropower reservoirs. Trout anglers fish all accessible reaches of the Middle Fork. The river is not regarded as a paddling destination. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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South Fork Stanislaus River

The South Fork begins in the Emigrant Wilderness and flows through ornate granite formations before being dammed and heavily diverted in middle and lower reaches. Now flooded by New Melones Dam, the lower South Fork once had waterfalls and exquisite swimming holes. Length: 49 miles Average flow: 306 cfs Watershed: 201 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Headwaters have virtually no trail access, though one of the most remarkable off-trail hikes along a Sierra river lies above Pinecrest Reservoir, 1 mile east of Hwy. 108. After following a trail around the south side of the reservoir, carefully take the path of least resistance on granite slabs and ledges. With some agile scrambling this is one of California’s most memorable walk-and-swim routes; wear sneakers and a bathing suit on a hot summer day. Deep green cauldrons taper into vertical-wall enclaves. The South Fork is nearly inaccessible in middle and lower reaches through hot forests and chaparral. Most of the water is shunted into penstocks, so the bed is choked with willows and brush—a good illustration of what happens when flows are heavily diverted or floods eliminated by upstream dams. A popular swimming site at Italian Bar is reached by dirt roads northeast of Columbia. The South Fork is not known as a fishing or boating stream, though angling for small stocked and native trout can be done near Strawberry.

South Fork Stanislaus River above Pinecrest Reservoir.

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Tuolumne River

A classic in anyone’s book, the Tuolumne drops from alpine headwaters, vast meadows, and an exquisite canyon, then through a premier whitewater run, and finally through lower reaches important for salmon and Central Valley recreation. With its source at the confluence of Dana and Lyell forks in Yosemite National Park, the river winds through Tuolumne Meadows—largest meadow in the high Sierra. At peak flow, just after the Tioga Pass Road opens in early June, it’s easy to see why the meadows exist: the flooding river makes the flats too wet for trees. Below, the 24-mile Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne ranks as one of America’s superlative scenic canyons. The river then pools into 8-mile-long Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, formed by O’Shaughnessy Dam. Only 75 cfs are released in summer through a 12-mile reach to Early Intake Dam. Below there, the Tuolumne’s lower canyon flows free for 24 miles. The dam-free South Fork Tuolumne and its fine assemblage of native fishes is joined by the Middle Fork, each about 30 miles long, and enters the main stem below Lumsden, at the head of the lower canyon. This empties into Don Pedro Reservoir—2 million acrefeet impounded for the Modesto and Turlock irrigation districts. Just below, at LaGrange, a diversion dam built in 1894 was the first permanent dam in the San Joaquin Basin. Here 47 percent of the river is taken out for irrigation. The remaining stream continues 55 miles, with an initial reach through recovering riparian habitat once dredged for gold. Passing Length: 152 miles (166 miles with the Lyell Fork) Average flow: 1,794 cfs Watershed: 1,883 square miles

Tuolumne River in its classic whitewater reach near Indian Creek. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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lower foothills and farmland, the “T” bisects Modesto and meanders across the Central Valley to the San Joaquin. A showcase of Sierra geology, the Tuolumne’s upper basin is capped by limestone on the rounded southwest side of Mount Dana and by metamorphic slate on Mount Lyell. The Grand Canyon is gleaming granite. In the foothills, the river cuts through sharp-edged, dark and rust-colored metasedimentary schists and slates of the Calaveras formation, typical of Sierra foothill rivers. Fishes from Hetch Hetchy down to Don Pedro Reservoir are affected by introduced trout and severe flow manipulations for hydropower and water supply. Formerly robust runs of 100,000 salmon and Steelhead in the lower river had fallen to 18,000 salmon by 2000 and plummeted to 684 in 2010—grim statistics that vary radically from year to year and reflect a 90 percent loss in spawning habitat, plus problems in the delta. A fall Chinook run survives, though it is strongly affected by hatchery fish. Steelhead have made somewhat of a comeback, with fish of hatchery origin, after summer flows were re-formed with a recent hydropower dam relicensing. For better salmon and Steelhead runs, improved spawning and rearing habitat are needed in the lower river, and delta hazards must be addressed. Severe as the losses are, a rich heritage of conservation began on the Tuolumne with its inclusion as the largest watershed in America’s third national park, and with John Muir’s bid in the early 1900s to spare the river and valley from the dam proposed by San Francisco at Hetch Hetchy—the only twin valley to the renowned Yosemite. Muir and the Sierra Club lost but started a movement to safeguard parks and wilderness nationwide. Then in 1968 the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission and later the irrigation districts proposed three new dams and diversions as the Clavey-Wards Ferry Project. A Sierra Club Task Force and the Tuolumne River Preservation Trust were formed, and they waged one of the nation’s foremost river conservation battles of its time, winning designation of the upper 83 miles as a National Wild and Scenic River in 1984. Subsequent proposals to dam the Clavey and also to divert an additional 25 million gallons a day to San Francisco were fought by the Trust to a standstill, and in 2008 the city’s Public Utilities Commission agreed to delay the withdrawal for 10 years and instead focus on water conservation and recycling. The Trust likewise championed restoration of the lower river for salmon and riparian habitat, and promoted a recreational parkway. As a separate effort, Restore Hetch Hetchy works for the removal of O’Shaughnessy Dam at Hetch Hetchy. WHERE TO GO

Paths reach the upper river throughout Tuolumne Meadows; take the Tioga Pass Road (120) in northern Yosemite. Below the meadows, the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne offers one of the superlative riverfront backpacking opportunities in America. The popular path tours brilliant rapids, inviting pools of crystal-clear water, 188

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and extravagant waterfalls: Tuolumne, Glen Aulin, California, and Waterwheel. At high water in June, the river’s steep plunge is one of the most amazing hydrologic phenomena I’ve ever seen. The trail descends within 3 miles of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir and then climbs out to White Wolf, reached from Hwy. 120. O’Shaughnessy Dam can be seen by turning north off 120 a half mile outside Yosemite’s northwest entrance and following Evergreen and then Hetch Hetchy roads. A trail skirts the reservior’s north side near Wapama and Rancheria Falls and offers a hint of what was buried when the reservoir was filled. Below Hetch Hetchy, the river can be reached at South Fork Campground; from Groveland take Hwy. 120 east 7.5 miles, turn north on Ferretti Road for 1 mile, then right on Lumsden for 5 miles of steep dirt road. Upstream from South Fork Campground a section of the dewatered canyon can be seen by hiking from the Early Intake Dam eastward 4 miles. The Middle Fork of the Tuolumne can be seen by going 9 miles west of the Yosemite entrance on Hwy. 120 and turning north onto Forest Service Route 17 (just east of the Rainbow Pool Picnic Area). The nearby South Fork can be seen south of 120 at Harden Flat Campground. This popular fishing stream is stocked with Rainbow Trout. The lower Tuolumne can be reached at LaGrange and several other downstream sites (see boating section below). Trout fishing is popular in the Tuolumne, though it’s not known for large fish. Anglers catch Striped Bass below Fox Grove County Park near Modesto, and catfish are hooked down to the mouth. Expert whitewater paddling on the Tuolumne is worldrenowned. Upstream from the South Fork, a key tributary, 28-mile-long Cherry Creek, begins in the southern reaches of the Emigrant Wilderness and then ponds in the backwaters of Cherry Reservoir—another part of San Francisco’s Hetch Hetchy project. The companion waters of Eleanor Creek join after being similarly impounded. Water released from these dams surges down lower Cherry Creek and enters the Tuolumne to create the most challenging, regularly run commercial whitewater trip in the United States. From lower Cherry Creek to South Fork Campground, 6 miles of Class V rapids pound over granite falls and bouldered chutes with a few portages (700–1,800 cfs). Permits are required from Stanislaus National Forest for this run that’s only for teams of experts. Less intense but still very challenging, the Tuolumne’s lower canyon is one of America’s revered whitewater destinations. From Meral’s Pool, near South Fork Campground, rafters and kayakers embark on a Class IV+ whitewater run (1,000–5,000 cfs) extending 18 miles to Don Pedro Reservoir. The 2,000-foot-deep canyon features cliffs, ponderosa pines, oak savanna, chaparral, and grassland (now overcome by alien weeds). Steep rocky drops with powerful hydraulics, undercut rocks, and highly technical maneuvering in many Class IV rapids typify the run. Clavey SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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Falls—a 15-foot Class V rapid—is the big whitewater challenge. The trip can be done in a day but ranks as California’s foremost overnight whitewater expedition for expert paddlers or guided rafters. Put in near the South Fork Campground. To reach the takeout from Groveland, go west on Hwy. 120 for 2 miles to Big Oak Flat, then north on Ward’s Ferry Road for 7 miles to the north side of Don Pedro Reservoir (some flatwater must be crossed at the end of the run). Permits are required from Stanislaus National Forest; commercial trips are available. Below Don Pedro Dam and the subsequent LaGrange Dam, 55 miles of mostly Class I canoeing water (300–900 cfs at LaGrange) eases to the San Joaquin. Put in at a pedestrian bridge at LaGrange. Levels in summer are low; releases from upstream dams begin again in October, when salmon can sometimes be seen. Schools of Sacramento Suckers can be watched in quiet water, which harbors mats of the aquatic plant elodea. The first 9 miles to the Turlock State Recreation Area is a pleasant float with fast riffles through recovering fields of gold-mine dredgings. On the lower end of this run, odd 90-degree bends are an artifact of troughs created by the dredge piles. Anglers cast here for rainbow trout, and farther down for bass and Bluegills. To reach the takeout from Modesto, drive east on Hwy. 132 to Waterford, turn south on J9 for a mile, then east on Lake Road to Turlock Lake (fees). Downriver, and above Waterford, a deadly eddy is sometimes created where diversions are returned to the river; if this is occurring, portage on the right (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Access areas can be found 18 miles below LaGrange, just upstream of the Hickman Road bridge in Waterford via Appling Way. Fox Grove Park is another 5 miles downriver; from Modesto drive 7 miles east on Hwy. 132, turn right on Albers (Geer) Road, cross the bridge, and turn left. In Modesto, get access at Legion Park: east of downtown turn south on Santa Cruz Avenue. The remains of Dennett Dam, built in the 1930s as a recreational impoundment near the 9th Street bridge, create a hazard that is slated for removal when funds become available. To reach the lower river, the Riverdale fishing access lies just southwest of Modesto: take Hwy. 99 south across the river, exit Hatch Road west, and go to the river. Shiloh fishing access is 4 miles up from the mouth; take Hwy. 132 west from Modesto for 6 miles, turn left on Hart Road, right on Paradise, and left on Shiloh to the bridge. Don’t leave cars at any of these sites overnight.

Lyell Fork Tuolumne River

This southern fork is the principal Tuolumne headwaters. It begins on Mount Lyell, at 13,114 feet the highest peak in Yosemite, and at the base of Lyell Glacier— second-largest in the Sierra. From rockbound lakes and meadows above timberline, water rushes down to Lyell Canyon. Length: 14 miles Volume: 57 cfs Watershed: 44 square miles

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Lyell Fork, Tuolumne River, downstream from Rafferty Creek.

The John Muir Trail follows the length of the willow-lined, U-shaped glacial trough of the Lyell Fork for 12 miles. The glacier and its river-source outlet can be seen with a rigorous off-trail hike and scramble southward from the John Muir Trail. The smaller, 10-mile Dana Fork is a beautiful stream that can be seen along the Tioga Pass Road above Tuolumne Meadows. Headwaters bubble through a spacious and open expanse of meadows and willow thickets between the heights of Mounts Dana and Gibbs. To see this striking upper basin of Dana Fork, plus its headwater pass overlooking the remnant Gibbs Glacier and distant Mono Lake, go to the Mono Pass Trailhead just west of Tioga Pass on Hwy. 120, hike half a mile south to the diminutive Dana Fork crossing, then walk off-trail upstream for 2 miles.

Clavey River

The Clavey is one of few entirely free-flowing rivers left in California, and the top Sierra stream for diversity of native fishes because it lacks dams, exotic species, and hatchery influence. The watershed begins in the Emigrant Wilderness with Bell Creek, which soon merges with Lily Creek to form the Clavey. The basin doesn’t reach to the high Sierra, and without heavy snowmelt it runs low in summer. Reachable only by remote roads, the Clavey rushes through its narrow basin and enters the wild lower canyon of the Tuolumne 10 miles above Ward’s Ferry. Length: 31 miles (41 miles with Bell Creek) Average flow: 163 cfs Watershed area: 157 square miles

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Clavey River in low summer flows at Cherry Lake Road.

Native species in this designated Wild Trout stream include the Sacramento Sucker, California Roach, Sacramento pikeminnow, hardhead, and Rainbow Trout. The Sierra Nevada Ecosystems Project rated the Clavey as best in the Sierra for ecosystem health and diversity (behind only Mill and Deer creeks, which geologically lie in the Cascade Mountains). The Project recommended designation as an Aquatic Diversity Management Area to protect native fishes and amphibians. Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America listed this among the top 12 California streams for the conservation of biodiversity. In the 1990s the Tuolumne River Trust and other groups opposed Turlock Irrigation District’s plan to dam the river for hydropower, leading to the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission’s denial of the project. The District shelved its plans in 1995. The Trust and the Clavey River Preservation Coalition continue to work for permanent protection. One of California’s top candidates for Wild and Scenic River status, the stream is recommended for designation by the Forest Service. WHERE TO GO

The only easy place to reach the Clavey is at its midsection, and even there, a rugged gorge affords no trail access. From Hwy. 108 in Sonora, take Mono Way exit, go east and turn south on E17 (Tuolumne Road) to its end at Carter Street in the town of Tuolumne, then go left on Forest Service 14 (Cottonwood Road toward Cherry Lake) for 14 paved miles to a right-hand horseshoe bend and the Clavey bridge. A difficult scramble, with some poison oak, can take you to the river. The unimproved Forest Service 1N01 also goes to the river about 20 miles southeast of the town of Tuolumne. 192

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The Clavey is best seen from its mouth via raft on the Tuolumne. The excellent campsite at the mouth of the Clavey (just above the notorious rapid, Clavey Falls) can be used as a base for a short hike upstream to a waterfall and swimming hole. In high runoff the lower Clavey has become a destination of expert kayakers with its tight Class V rapids and mandatory portages.

Merced River

Centerpiece of Yosemite National Park, the Merced boasts America’s most spectacular collection of waterfalls and then flows through rugged foothill canyons to the Central Valley. Headwaters begin on the southwest flank Mount Lyell. Clear water descends dozens of cascades, including the 594-foot Nevada Fall and 317-foot Vernal Fall. Below there the river drifts peaceably through the famed Yosemite Valley before plunging through a canyon to El Portal. Whitewater continues to 19-mile-long McClure Reservoir, followed by 5-mile-long McSwain, plus small dams, Crocker and Huffman. The lower river eases into the Central Valley where it accumulates agricultural runoff. The upper Merced is one of the Sierra’s penultimate granite basins with vast sheets of brilliant rock and surrounding cliffs, domes, and peaks. The granite is typically white or pink feldspar and quartz with black minerals peppered in. Light-colored rocks are tonalite, and the darkest are diorite. The Pleistocene era Merced glaciers carved Yosemite to produce the most idealized glacial valley in America, with a U shape, vertical walls, and hanging valleys of tributary streams that were cut off by the ice’s excavation and left to plunge over waterfalls onto the valley floor. Tributary cataracts including Tenaya, Yosemite, Bridalveil, and Cascade make a stunning background to Merced River scenes. From Yosemite downstream, the Merced’s native fishery is plagued by exotic bass. With the San Joaquin River salmon runs functionally extinct, the Merced now hosts the southernmost Chinook in California, though most fish are hatchery-based. In the early 1980s, the Crane Creek, El Portal, and Indian Flat dams were proposed by hydroelectric developers to block and de-water the river, beginning at the park boundary and extending down to the South Fork. The damming was defeated by the Merced River Canyon Committee and Friends of the River in 1987 when Congress designated the stream a National Wild and Scenic River, including 52 miles of the main stem from its source to Briceburg. In 1992 another 8 miles down to McClure Reservoir were added, though in 2009 the Merced Irrigation District proposed deletions there in an effort to raise Exchequer Dam. Friends of the River has worked to prevent that from occurring and to improve flows through the hydropower relicensing of Exchequer and other dams. Length: 145 miles (151 miles with the Lyell Fork of the Merced) Average flow: 1,390 cfs Watershed: 1,262 square miles

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Merced River at El Portal.

WHERE TO GO

Upper reaches offer some of the most classic high-country riverfront hiking in America. The headwaters of Fletcher Creek, Lewis Creek, and Triple Peak Fork can all be reached by trails from Yosemite Valley or Tuolumne Meadows. A trail along the main stem passes through a wonderland of granite and secluded groves from Merced Lake down the Bunnell Cascade, through the forested Little Yosemite Valley, and alongside Nevada and Vernal Falls. This lower section has one of the most-used river trails anywhere. To see the Merced from the Vernal Falls Trail at the height of snowmelt in June is a heart-pounding experience, and elegant at any time of year. Various Yosemite Valley paths showcase the river; my favorite is the stroll around Leidig Meadow, just west of Yosemite Lodge. At high water in May–June, the flooded Merced reveals what the valley once looked like before its wetlands were drained in the 1800s. The finest riverfront trail in the valley runs from Happy Isles to Lower Pines Campground, but hundreds of horses from the nearby livery will have been there before you; I like to walk this path in the winter. Below the valley, Rte. 140 follows the river, with pullouts, to the park boundary and El Portal. Below El Portal, on the north side, a secondary road follows the riverbank to a dead end where the abandoned Yosemite Valley Railroad bed can be traveled by foot or bicycle. The trail can also be reached downstream by crossing to the north side at Briceburg, which is where Hwy. 140 turns away from the river. 194

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Below McClure Reservoir the river can be seen at several access areas between Merced Falls and Snelling amid gold-dredge tailings. Henderson Park is a popular recreation site upstream from Snelling along Rte. J16. One of few places to walk along the lower river is McConnell State Recreation Area; from Turlock take Hwy. 99 south, exit at Delphi, turn east on South Avenue, then south on Pepper. Just above the San Joaquin confluence, the Hatfield State Recreation Area has access and riparian trees. Trout fishing is possible but not good on the Merced above El Portal; bass and stocked Rainbow Trout are caught below. Catfish are the major sport fish on the lower river; Rainbow Trout are annually stocked even in this warm-water stream. Yosemite Valley offers one of the most beautiful Class I paddling jaunts in America for 3 miles from Stoneman Bridge to Sentinel Beach Picnic Area in the heart of the valley (the takeout is crucial, and the rest of the park is closed to boating). Below the park, from El Portal to the Red Bud Picnic Area, Class V expert whitewater roars May–July. Then a 29-mile reach of difficult whitewater (III–IV) runs from the Red Bud-Foresta Bridge (3 miles west of El Portal) to Bagby in spring–early summer (800–4,000 cfs at Briceburg; commercial trips are available). Within this, a Class II–III segment (but beware of high water) extends for 6 miles from a former footbridge below Ned Gulch Rapid to Briceburg. Class III holes here can be dodged by advanced paddlers. A dirt road continues on the north side for 5 miles, but then ends, leaving a roadless canyon of Class IV rapids. Just above the North Fork confluence (21 miles below Red Bud), a waterfall requires a difficult portage. The lower Merced’s limited access, lack of safe parking, litter, bank-top agriculture, and sometimes surly private landowners have made this 48-mile reach less hospitable than the lower Stanislaus or Tuolumne. If the problems are addressed, this worthy stream could be an exceptional biologic corridor, recreational artery, and economic asset through the Central Valley, with the option of continuing down the San Joaquin for one of California’s longer canoe trips.

Yosemite Creek

Dropping from the north side of Mount Hoffman, this Merced tributary becomes the highlight of Yosemite Valley where it free-falls 1,430 feet (2,425 feet when combined with two lower drops)—widely regarded as the tallest waterfall on the continent. Hwy. 120 crosses the creek east of Crane Flat, and a trail heads downstream for 6 miles to the brink of the falls. This dramatic spot is more often reached by hiking up from the valley; the steep trail leaves from the northwestern end of the Yosemite Lodge complex, eventually switchbacking alongside the airborne creek. Far easier, a paved Length: 13 miles Average flow: 75 cfs Watershed: 43 square miles

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Yosemite Falls, with Merced River floodwaters in the foreground.

trail to the falls’ base is one of the most popular Yosemite attractions, reached across the road from Yosemite Lodge. The high waters of May and June are the best time to see this stream, which completely dries up by late summer.

South Fork Merced River

Beginning in the high country of southern Yosemite National Park, this river winds through forested glades and into a steep canyon—roadless except for a short section near Wawona Hotel. The Fork meets the main stem at Hwy. 140 west of El Portal. This is one of the Sierra’s longer dam-free rivers. In springtime the South Fork canyon is known for its magnificent lupines, poppys, and other wildflowers; in winter it’s a refuge for Yosemite’s deer. A designated Wild Trout stream, it’s one of few in the Sierra with sustaining native Rainbow as well as alien Brook and Brown trout. In 1982 the Merced Irrigation District proposed a 260-foot-high dam on the lower river but, facing stiff opposition, shelved the idea in 1985. From source to mouth the stream was designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers system in 1987—one of the more significant entire rivers protected as wild and scenic. Length: 44 miles Average flow: 327 cfs Watershed: 236 square miles

WHERE TO GO

A good trail heads up the South Fork for 4 miles from Savage’s Trading Post (along Hwy. 140) to Hite Cove—popular in spring before 196

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high-elevation paths open and before the foothills get hot. Anglers come here for trout. Expert whitewater paddlers occasionally hike 3 miles from a remote trailhead to run Class IV rapids in springtime (see Holbek and Stanley, Guide to the Best Whitewater, and Tuthill, “California Creeks”). Rarely done, an extraordinary multiday, self-support, Class V expert kayak run extends from Hwy. 41 to the mouth. The tributary Chilnualna Creek has a magnificent waterfall—690 feet in several pitches, and granite potholes for swimming. Take Hwy. 41 to Wawona and turn north on Chilnualna Falls Road, then hike steeply for several miles. Water is low here by midsummer.

San Joaquin River

Though its volume is relatively small, the San Joaquin with its South Fork headwaters is the second-longest river in California, exceeded only by the Pit/Sacramento combination. Peerless wilderness headwaters drop from the Sierra crest to a chain of hydropower projects and then Friant Dam. Diversions have desiccated portions of the lower river and driven salmon to extinction, though restoration is under way. The North and Middle forks join to form the main stem in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. After 10 miles the South Fork enters at the unique granite uplift, Balloon Dome, and just a few miles farther the river encounters Mammoth Pool Reservoir, where water is diverted into a chain of Length: 342 miles (393 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 4,489 cfs at Vernalis Watershed: 32,000 square miles

San Joaquin River at Durham Ferry below the Stanislaus confluence. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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penstocks, power plants, and dams. Throughout the watershed, eight major and 22 smaller dams provide mostly for hydropower, with Friant Dam providing irrigation. Upstream from Fresno, a 6-mile undammed section enters Friant Dam’s Millerton Reservoir. This Bureau of Reclamation project diverted most water to the Friant Kern and Madera canals but allowed minimal releases downstream required by riparian water-rights owners. Then at Gravelly Ford, 38 miles below Friant, the river was dried up for irrigation since the 1950s. In a complicated and heavily subsidized water rights transfer, the flows taken out are partially replaced by water ironically pumped back up from the lower San Joaquin in the delta through the California Aqueduct and released at Mendota to run down the San Joaquin a second time—and be diverted a second time to farms below Firebaugh. Return irrigation flows add salts, silt, and nutrients; according to the Water Education Foundation, the lower San Joaquin is the most impaired major river in the state. With ditches draining selenium-laced soils, waters on the basin’s west side caused grotesque birth defects in waterfowl where the water was stored, including Kesterson National Wildlife Refuge. Over 1.3 million tons of salt were also washed into the lower river each year. This chemical stew contributed to the municipal water supply of millions of Californians. Some relief comes after 153 miles below Friant when the Merced and then the Tuolumne and Stanislaus add their small, mandated flows. Then the lower San Joaquin splits into two distributaries, the Old and Middle rivers, which bend west through the San Joaquin’s 52-mile delta reach, and the main stem ends at the Sacramento confluence near Antioch. But before that point, depauperate flows are captured by delta pumps of the Central Valley and State Water projects and shunted back southward from the Clifton Court Forebay on the Old River. Much of the delta water is ultimately pumped to farms on the west side of the San Joaquin Valley or continues via aqueduct to southern California cities. Before the dams and diversions, the San Joaquin and its tributaries had one of the best Chinook fisheries in America—an estimated 500,000 spawners per year. In 1990 fewer than 1,000 returned to the Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced, and the runs have remained low. Virtually no fish ventured above the Merced, making it the default source of the San Joaquin as far as salmon were concerned. But, after the Bureau of Reclamation renewed irrigation contracts to continue the de-watering of the San Joaquin for another 40 years, the Natural Resources Defense Council sued in 1988. Sixteen years later a district court ruled mostly in favor of the NRDC. Opposing sides came to an agreement in 2006 to undertake one of the largest river restoration projects in history. Some water is allotted to salmon, some of the pollution will be abated, and the 63-mile dried portion of the riverbed was rewatered for the first time in 60 years with a nominal release that’s expected to increase. The added flows over time, along with riverbed restoration, are intended to provide for a restored spring and fall Chinook Salmon run 198

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and to improve downstream water quality for farms and cities. Legislation appropriated $80 million; the full effort was expected to cost $500–800 million, with farmers paying $250 million and taxpayers shouldering the rest. If the money holds out, unfolding events here could mark one of the more notable river restorations in America. On another front, the San Joaquin River Parkway and Conservation Trust was founded in 1988 and seeks to restore 6,000 acres of riparian habitat near Fresno and to establish a greenway along 33 miles from Friant to Hwy. 99. A state San Joaquin River Conservancy Act in 1992 gave this plan a boost with a temporary influx of funds. The legislature in 2009 passed a water bond including money that could be used to build Temperance Flat Dam above Millerton Reservoir— one of few new dams proposed in recent decades. Expected to cost $3 billion, the dam would store water on only one in four years given all the other dams that are already catching runoff in the Basin. The bond required ratification by the voters, and lacking public support, it was withdrawn and rescheduled for 2012. Because of high projected costs, low benefits, and economic groundwater banking alternatives, dam construction is unlikely. Near the northern limits of the San Joaquin Basin, three small tributaries, not covered in river descriptions below, occupy low elevations of the Sierra: the 75-mile Fresno River comes from Bass Lake Reservoir, passes through Oakhurst, and runs intermittently through Madera to ditches. North of the Fresno, the 65-mile Chowchilla River enters Eastman Reservoir, where one of the best oak savannas is open to the public as a National Recreation Area. The Calaveras River joins in Stockton; though small, its relatively undeveloped North Fork is one of the higher scoring streams biologically in Moyle and Randall, Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project Report. WHERE TO GO

To see the upper main stem, hikes are required. From Oakhurst take Hwy. 41 north for 4 miles, turn right on Forest Service 222 for 5 miles, left on Rte. 7 for about 30 miles, then left on 5S30 to the Mammoth Trailhead. From there, hike to the North Fork and then down to the main stem. Using another approach, the spectacular Balloon Dome over the Middle and South forks confluence can be seen, and the river reached from the French Trail; from the route above, continue on Forest Service 81 for 5 miles beyond the 5S30 turnoff to the Hells Half Acre Trailhead, hike south to the French Trail, then veer left or east to the river. Downstream from there, and on the south side, a narrow, gated road or trail runs along the canyon rim upstream of Redinger Reservoir with views of the wild Chawanakee Gorge; see the Sierra National Forest map for all these sites. To see the Temperance Flat canyon and proposed dam site, head northeast from Fresno on Hwy. 168, left on Auberry Road to Auberry, north on Powerhouse Road, and left on Smalley Road for 6 miles to the BLM’s gorge SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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area and campground. A trail leads to a footbridge over the river and connects to a north-side trail system, popular during the springtime wildflower season. Connecting existing routes and building new sections where needed, the San Joaquin River Trail Council hopes to link Friant Dam and the Pacific Crest Trail with a 73-mile continuous footpath. In the Central Valley below Friant Dam, several public parks with paths and access can be visited. For Lost Lake Park, take 41 north to Friant Road and head east 8 miles to the 305-acre park. For Wildwood Nature Park, take Hwy. 41 north from Fresno, exit at Rio Mesa, go right on the frontage road, and left to Wildwood. For Jenson River Ranch and Woodward Park, take Hwy. 41 north, exit at Friant Road, and turn left on Audubon. Because much of the middle/lower river is girded by farms and private land, the conditions of the waterfront can be difficult to see. The Mendota Pool, just northeast of Mendota, has access for fishing. To see the rewatered segment upstream of the Mendota Pool, take Firebaugh Boulevard east from Firebaugh, turn right on Ripperdan Avenue, right on Chowchilla Canal Road until it leaves the canal, and continue on Road 13 to the San Joaquin bridge. Northeast of Los Banos the small river twists amid an obscure and/or off-limits maze of sloughs and canals, but here the San Luis National Wildlife Refuge and related reserves enfold 45,000 acres of wetlands, offering a hint of the original swamp-and-marsh empire once nourished by Sierra rivers. Thirty waterfowl species migrate through this Ramsar Wetland of International Importance. To see the marshes, if not the river, take Hwy. 165 north of Los Banos 6.5 miles, go east on Wolfsen Road 2 miles to the refuge entrance, and follow signs for Elk and waterfowl auto tours. Though unspectacular, the best place to see the lower San Joaquin is at the Great Valley Grasslands State Park (formerly Fremont Ford State Recreation Area); take Hwy. 140 west of Merced, head south on Hwy. 165 for 1.2 miles to the San Joaquin bridge and a fishing access. Continue south of the bridge 0.2 miles to a gate where a levee doubles as a public trail. Upper reaches of the San Joaquin have small wild trout; Rainbows are stocked below, including at the Friant Dam outlet. On the middle and lower river, anglers catch catfish and Largemouth Bass. Delta reaches offer fishing for catfish, best when the tide is turning, and also for Striped and Largemouth bass. Boating on the San Joaquin is rife with challenges. At peak runoff, when the dams spill, the upper river has four expert Class V runs with portages and complicated access. The first, from Mammoth Pool Dam to Mammoth Pool Powerhouse, is an 8-mile reach followed by the spectacular 8-mile Chawanakee Gorge, then Redinger Dam to Kerckhoff Reservoir, and finally Kerckhoff to a lower powerhouse. Below Friant Dam the San Joaquin can be paddled in summer on mostly Class I water for 33 miles to Skaggs Bridge Park off Hwy. 145; 200

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intermediate access is at Hwys. 41 (Wildwood Park on the north side) and 99. Beware of brush hazards, especially in springtime, plus an 8-foot culvert to pass through 8 miles down. Put in on the south side of Friant Bridge. Below Skaggs Park, diversion structures require portaging. Once restoration flows are established, additional paddling might be possible, at least in the spring, for 74 miles from Mendota Pool to the Merced River, with intermediate access at a public park below the Firebaugh bridge. From the Merced confluence downstream the San Joaquin can be canoed, though some shorelines are trashed and the water becomes murky. To see this recovering California artery, or catch catfish, boaters can put in at Hatfield Recreation Area on the lower Merced or Caswell Park on the Stanislaus and soon enter the San Joaquin, then paddle to the head of the delta at Mossdale Crossing County Park, west of Manteca; from I-5 south, pass the Rte. 120 exit and take the Manthey Road exit, turn right, go a mile, cross the river, and turn left. Don’t leave cars overnight.

Middle Fork San Joaquin River

The Middle Fork San Joaquin begins on the eastern flanks of the central Sierra landmarks, Banner Peak and Mount Ritter. Exiting the incomparably beautiful Thousand Island Lake, the small stream follows a wilderness course the whole way to the North Fork confluence except for a few campgrounds served by the Devil’s Postpile road from Mammoth. The river riffles close to the classic formation of columnar basalt, Devil’s Postpile National Monument, which is also a landmark in river conservation history. While John Muir famously fought to save Hetch Hetchy Valley of the Tuolumne on the other side of the mountains, a prominant Forest Service engineer, Walter Huber, received an application from miners to dam the Middle Fork with rock blasted from the Postpile. He waged a personal campaign to save the unique site, enlisting the Sierra Club to help, and in 1911 President Taft designated it a national monument. Then in 1955 boosters proposed a new transSierra highway here and gained support of Caltrans, the Forest Service, and State Assembly, which ludicrously dubbed the route a “defense” highway. The Sierra Club and State Resources Secretary Ike Livermore succeeded in stopping it, and the corridor was secured as wilderness in a campaign championed by the California Wilderness Coalition in 1984. The river has a prized fishery and, for better or worse, may be the only California stream with all four trout: Rainbow, Golden, Brook, and Brown (the latter three introduced). Nearly as large as the Middle Fork, Shadow Creek joins after a breathtaking descent from the southern flanks of Banner Peak, Mount Ritter, the Minarets, and all their respective glaciers. It forms lakes loaded with Length: 27 miles Volume: 348 cfs Watershed: 189 square miles

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Middle Fork San Joaquin River and Banner Peak.

icebergs well into summer, passes magnificent conifers, and finally drops through a 700-foot rockfall. WHERE TO GO

The Devil’s Postpile bus provides service to the upper river from the Mammoth Ski Area, from mid-June through November. A trail follows the upper reaches of the river, which is flanked by high mountainsides and the Pacific Crest Trail to the east. Trout fishing is popular in the Devil’s Postpile area. Downstream from there, a popular trail leads to Rainbow Falls, which drops 101 feet over a basalt ledge and is considered the tallest waterfall at high elevations of the Sierra. While basalt waterfalls are common in northern California, they’re rare in the Sierra; this is the largest one I know. The trail continues for less than a mile to Lower Falls, which is followed by a vertical-wall canyon that makes the Middle Fork one of the most inaccessible major streams in the state. The trail-free canyon continues for 11 miles to the North Fork confluence. To see tributary Shadow Creek, take the Devil’s Postpile bus from Mammoth, get off at Agnew Meadows, hike north to the Shadow Creek Trail, and begin climbing. The extreme rapids and canyons of this river were first kayaked and portaged with interspersed technical rock climbing by Reg Lake, Doug Tompkins, and Royal Robbins in 1980. Pushing the 202

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limits of their sport, other kayakers and climbers are occasionally repeating the arduous expedition.

North Fork San Joaquin River

Paralleling the Middle Fork, but west of the magnificent Ritter Range, the North Fork San Joaquin is among California’s largest streams entirely in designated wilderness. The remote route is isolated by high peaks of the Sierra in every direction. The river is most easily reached from the Mammoth Trailhead, east of Bass Lake (see “San Joaquin River”). From the trail’s North Fork crossing, a path goes upstream a mile to a waterfall and swimming hole. Farther up, the North Fork is reached by a complex network of trails north of Clover Meadow Campground, 2 miles west of the Mammoth Trailhead. For another way in, take the Devil’s Postpile bus from the Mammoth Ski Area to the Postpile and then hike west to the Granite Stairway south of Iron Mountain and proceed west (see the Sierra National Forest map). Length: 18 miles Average flow: 106 cfs Watershed: 57 square miles

South Fork San Joaquin River Length: 51 miles Average flow: 809 cfs Watershed: 453 square miles

Largest of the San Joaquin’s branches, the South Fork’s source lies in Kings Canyon National Park with two basins considered by many to be the ultimate in

South Fork San Joaquin in Goddard Canyon.

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Evolution Creek in Kings Canyon National Park.

Sierra high-elevation granite. Evolution Creek drains a 10-mile-long, lakedotted, peak-rimmed enclave traversed by the Pacific Crest Trail north of Muir Pass—revered by many hikers as the scenic highlight of the entire Mexico–Canada route. The upper South Fork comes from a narrower basin called Goddard Canyon with fewer lakes and far fewer backpackers, but with an enticing trail nonetheless. Together the two branches plunge past the mouth of Piute Creek and on to the backwaters of Florence Reservoir—uppermost in an elaborate hydroelectric system that dams, diverts, and de-waters the river. Below Florence Reservoir and again at Mono Hot Springs the damcontrolled river enters inaccessible granite gorges and canyons. It picks up Mono Creek, which makes its own breathtaking descent from basins called the First, Second, Third, and Fourth recesses, then is stilled in Thomas Edison Reservoir. Below the mouth of Mono Creek, the lower South Fork plummets to its confluence with the Middle Fork San Joaquin at Balloon Dome. WHERE TO GO

The high country of the upper basin can only be reached by trail on extended backpacking trips starting at Florence Reservoir, from trailheads west of Bishop, from Rock Creek on the east side of the Sierra, or from Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon National Park. The long, contorted road to Florence and Mono Hot Springs begins with Hwy. 168 in the northeast quadrant of Fresno. Don’t even think about driving there without a map. Mono Creek’s sublime recesses are best reached from trails at the head of Rock Creek. 204

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Kings River

South of the San Joaquin, four rivers historically supplied Central Valley lakes that were landlocked in most years, but during exceptionally high runoff spilled to the north and overflowed into the San Joaquin and onward to the delta. The northernmost and largest of these is the Kings. The stunning scenery of Sierra Nevada rivers that builds from north to south climaxes here; in my opinion the Kings Basin is unequaled for mountain grandeur. In other regards as well, the Kings wins any California river contest for superlatives. The main stem begins with the Middle Fork–South Fork confluence in Giant Sequoia National Monument, 18 miles downstream from Kings Canyon National Park’s Cedar Grove. The wild river runs beneath Spanish Peak, which soars 8,300 vertical feet above the north shore. Then massive whitewater plunges 8 miles from the confluence to Garnet Dike. From there the river flows 9 miles through a strikingly beautiful and broadening canyon of oak savanna, visited by trout anglers and whitewater boaters who enter on a dirt road that follows the stream. This popular reach terminates in the backwater of Pine Flat Dam. Below the 429-foot structure, the Kings enters the Central Valley south of Fresno. Historically, the river continued 100 miles through the valley to Tulare Lake—once the largest lake west of the Mississippi, 80 by 70 miles in extent. It supported one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife in California including Tule Elk and a booming commercial fishery. All but forgotten today, this unsung wonder of pre-dam California has been dried up and drained, leaving little but a pathetic rectangular wastewater sump. From its alpine origins the Kings and its Middle Fork drop 11,259 vertical feet without a dam down to the backwaters of Pine Flat at 950 feet above sea level—the largest free-flowing drop in the country (high peaks in Alaska are engulfed in ice that extends down to low elevations, and other rivers of the southern Sierra have reservoirs at higher elevations). Also having the steepest gradient of all major rivers, the basin descends from 14,000 feet above sea level to 1,000 feet in 40 miles. Along the Middle Fork, Sierra peaks rise 8,000 feet above both sides, creating the deepest canyon in America (a claim often attributed to Hells Canyon of the Snake, which carries a larger river but does not cut as deep beneath peaks on both sides). With a basin almost wholly composed of granite, and all the upper watershed protected as wilderness, the water of the Kings above Pine Flat is among the clearest anywhere, and it’s listed in Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America among California’s top 12 streams for the protection of biodiversity. The foothills reach is a Wild Trout fishery and widely regarded as the state’s finest large-river trout stream. It’s also one of the most popular whitewater runs. Above Pine Flat Reservoir, the South Fork and main stem combine for a dam-free length of 65 miles. Length: 131 miles (177 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 1,932 cfs Watershed: 1,897 square miles

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Kings River below Mill Flat, a site proposed for damming in the 1980s.

A pivotal site in conservation history, upper reaches were proposed for a complex of dams and power plants similar to what was built in the San Joaquin Basin. In the Federal Power Commission’s first action to protect a river rather than dam it, the agency in 1923 ruled that the power dams could not be built. Kings Canyon National Park was designated in 1940 but left proposed dam sites unprotected at Zumwalt Meadows, Sentinel, Paradise Valley, Tehipite Valley, Cedar Grove, and the Middle-South Fork confluence. At each of these extraordinary destinations, hikers and visitors today can see what was nearly lost. Fought by Martin Litton of the Sierra Club, the National Park and Conservation Association, and the National Park Service, the plans were eventually scrapped, and Cedar Grove and Tehipite Valley were added to Kings Canyon National Park in 1965. The saga later continued on the main stem above Pine Flat when irrigators proposed a dam at Rogers Crossing. The Committee to Save the Kings River mobilized and in 1987 persuaded Congressman Richard Lehman to sponsor designation of the entire Middle and South forks as National Wild and Scenic rivers, along with the upper 6 miles of the main stem. The remaining 11 miles to Pine Flat Reservoir were named a Special Management Area, prohibiting dams unless Congress acts to approve them. Today, those 11 miles may constitute California’s most valuable natural river lacking National Wild and Scenic protection. WHERE TO GO

The confluence of the Middle and South forks lies in the Monarch Wilderness just outside Kings Canyon National Park, and can be seen from Junction Vista on Hwy. 180 as it descends into the 206

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canyon west of Cedar Grove. Just east of the overlook, the Yucca Point Trail switchbacks down to the river, providing the only access to the main stem above Garnet Dike. From the end of the trail, it’s only a short distance upstream or downstream before cliffs and rapids block passage; adventurous and fit explorers need to swim across pools (late summer only) and rock-scramble to go any farther in this spectacular and figuratively moated canyon. Downstream, the gravel Garnet Dike Road runs upriver 9 miles from the inlet of Pine Flat Reservoir with many places to stop and walk—exquisite in the green of springtime (March–April). Upstream from Garnet Dike, the Kings River National Trail follows the north shore for 3 miles with splendid views. To reach the Garnet Dike–Pine Flat reach from Fresno/Clovis, take Belmont Avenue to Trimmer Springs Road, then 46 miles on a snaking road around Pine Flat Reservoir to its inlet. At the lower limits of the watershed, token remains of the former biologic masterpiece, Tulare Lake, can be seen west of Corcoran. Just a hint of what once existed can be seen at the Pixley and Kern National Wildlife refuges, west of Earlimart and Delano, respectively, with wetlands and relict riparian corridors. The Kings is famous as a Rainbow Trout fishery. Above Pine Flat Reservoir, anglers’ paths lead to pools at the base of many rapids. Fishing is best in spring and autumn, before and after high runoff. Alien Smallmouth Bass move into the river from the reservoir in late spring and remain until fall. A few expert kayakers paddle the extreme Garlic Falls run from Yucca Point to Garnet Dike, including an amazing Class V rapid where Rough Creek and Garlic Meadow Creek waterfall directly into the river half a mile apart. With 14 Class V rapids and dangerously undercut rocks, this is one of the most difficult major paddling runs in California. Popular whitewater starts at the end of the Garnet Dike road and continues 9 miles to Kirch Flat Campground (the head of Pine Flat Reservoir). It begins with the powerful flush of Class III–IV Banzai Rapid, followed by Class III drops (1,000–5,000 cfs) with big waves and holes, runnable on snowmelt into July (commercial trips available). Grand Canyon-style water can be found during peak flows up to 18,000 cfs. With a large part of the watershed in high terrain, runoff comes later and lasts longer than on other rivers, giving the Kings the longest boating season among California’s undammed streams. Below Pine Flat Dam, a nice Class I–II section passes through grassland and oaks to the Central Valley; summer irrigation releases run 2,000 cfs or more. To reach the put-in, take Hwy. 180 east from Fresno 15 miles, bear left on Trimmer Springs Road, and go for 10 miles to a put-in at Piedra (avoid a deadly diversion dam above). Three weirs have to be portaged. Take out at several Fresno County parks downstream, or go 12 miles to Centerville and Pierces’ Park (fee). To drive there, take 180 east to Centerville. Ditches at those and other points divert the river’s flow from SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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its historic route, and the river dwindles until virtually nothing is left to enter Tulare Lake.

Middle Fork Kings River

The Middle Fork begins at the base of Muir Pass and plunges west to the South Fork. The entire basin lies within Kings Canyon National Park or wilderness areas, making it California’s largest entirely protected watershed. Flowing from some of the most spectacular high-mountain country in America, the stream tumbles through hundreds of rapids and over dozens of waterfalls. Shorelines that are not tiered in gleaming granite are shaded with groves of cottonwoods, willows, and lodgepole pines. The upper basin’s Le Conte Canyon is one of the ultimate high-Sierra landscapes, while Cartridge Creek drains the crown of the watershed at the west face of the Palisades, including California’s fourth-highest peak, North Palisade. The lower Middle Fork riffles through Tehipite Valley in the shadow of a uniquely skinny granite dome that rises 3,600 feet. Length: 37 miles Average flow: 419 cfs Watershed: 317 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The Pacific Crest Trail offers access to the stellar upper basin, and is most directly reached via the Dusy Basin west of Bishop—still a long hike. Less traveled, the Middle Fork Trail

Middle Fork Kings River headwaters, Upper Basin, Kings Canyon National Park. 208

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heads downriver from Palisade Creek to Tehipite Valley but leaves the lower 7 miles of river pathless. If Tehipite is the prime destination, enter from the west side, south of Wishon Reservoir. I once got lost during a late October snowstorm in the confusing 13-mile webwork of trails and had some tense moments; take a good map and compass! The pilgrimage to Tehipite is one of the more remote river hiking expeditions in California.

South Fork Kings River

Much like the Middle Fork, the South Fork Kings originates in the granite backcountry of Kings Canyon National Park. The spectacular Woods Creek and Bubbs Creek join the upper South Fork, and then the river rushes through the car-accessible recreation area of Cedar Grove. The lower South Fork plunges through the tumultuous Horseshoe Bend with its metamorphic cliffs before reaching the Middle Fork confluence. Most of the basin lies in the park; lower reaches flow through Giant Sequoia National Monument of Sierra National Forest. Length: 46 miles Average flow: 604 cfs Watershed: 473 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The Pacific Crest–John Muir Trail traverses the rocky terrain and forested groves of the upper basin, but the South Fork is most directly reached by the Taboose Pass Trail—a less-used path

South Fork Kings River below Cedar Grove and Boyden Cave.

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crossing the Sierra crest south of Big Pine. After intersecting with the Pacific Crest Trail, the Taboose extension follows the South Fork for about 3 miles but then ends. Farther south the popular Woods Creek Trail descends from the Pacific Crest Trail to aptly named Paradise Valley and the junction of the Bubbs Creek Trail, and in another 2 miles to the Cedar Grove Road. Cedar Grove’s campgrounds and South Fork frontage are popular carcamping destinations and a great place to see a semiwild river. From Fresno and Sequoia National Park take Rte. 180. On the way into Cedar Grove, and just west of Boyden Cave, a pullout offers a spectacular view of the South Fork’s truly awesome lower canyon at Horseshoe Bend. The South Fork is fished for small native Rainbow Trout. Boating is not allowed in Kings Canyon National Park.

North Fork Kings River

In the King’s otherwise superlative natural basin, the North Fork is the workhorse. It enters the main stem above Pine Flat Reservoir after being dammed for hydropower at Courtright, Wishon, Blackrock, and Balch Camp reservoirs, and is nearly dried up by penstocks. To see the crippled North Fork, drive to the inlet of Pine Flat Reservoir (see Kings River section), and in another mile turn left toward Balch Camp. In less than a mile, a lane on the left heads to the river. Three miles farther up the road, the dried-up North Fork can be seen from a bridge. Highlighting this otherwise tightly plumbed basin, Dinkey Creek is a 29-mile-long tributary. Recreation sites here are popular, and upper reaches showcase an astonishing complex of pools and falls. To hike and swim in this splendid granite-walled stream—much like the South Fork Stanislaus above Pinecrest—take the Tollhouse Road (Hwy. 168) out of Fresno/Clovis to Shaver Reservoir, then go east on Dinky Creek Road for 10 miles to campgrounds and the Trails End Trailhead. Length: 40 miles Average flow: 485 cfs Watershed: 387 square miles

Kaweah River

Just south of the Kings Basin, the Kaweah River watershed remains mostly wild with spectacular drops from high country to foothills. The main stem begins at the confluence of the Middle and Marble forks, 3 miles northeast of the Sequoia National Park boundary, and flows 12 miles to the backwater of Kaweah Reservoir in the Sierra foothills. A few miles below the dam, the river is diverted into canals and dries up long before it reaches its historic Tulare Lake terminus. Length: 34 miles (58 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 533 cfs (at Success Reservoir, before diversions) Watershed: 639 square miles

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Kaweah River downstream of Sequoia National Park.

The Marble, Middle, North, East, and South forks lie mostly within Sequoia National Park. Collecting headwaters from the Great Western Divide, this quintet tumbles through a range of habitats from 10,800 feet down to 694 feet at the reservoir—a dam-free gradient nearly as great as that of the Kings. WHERE TO GO

The main stem can be seen from Hwy. 198 east of Visalia and above Kaweah Reservoir. With riverview pullouts, the road enters Sequoia National Park and curves above the stream to Potwisha Campground near the Middle–Marble Fork confluence. The East Fork is seldom seen in its rugged canyon below the Mineral King Road, which wraps acutely around hundreds of bends to a dead-end trailhead providing access to the Great Western Divide. (Beware: marmots at Mineral King are infamous for chewing through radiator hoses. Not sure what one can do about this except carry Rescue Tape, a versatile selfsealing silicone tape.) The 21-mile North Fork Kaweah can be seen occasionally from a winding biway north of Three Rivers. In 11 miles the road ends at the mouth of Yucca Creek, where a trail continues upriver but offers few views of the stream. The main stem has a 6-mile Class IV+ kayaking run (500–1,000 cfs) from Gateway Bridge, near the park entrance, down to Three Rivers, with access at Three Rivers Hideaway Campground (fees). Below that, a 4-mile Class II–III reach with one Class IV rapid (500–2,500 cfs) in springtime extends from Three Rivers to Kaweah Reservoir. SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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Marble Fork Kaweah River above Lodgepole, Sequoia National Park.

Marble Fork Kaweah River

The Marble Fork drains extraordinary granite high country of Sequoia National Park and, in lower reaches, flows near the largest groves of giant sequoias. The river can be seen rushing past the campground at Lodgepole; here a trail on the north side reaches upstream for several miles to its end below Tokopah Falls. To see the lower river, go to Potwisha Campground, 2 miles north of the Ash Mountain entrance station, and take the Marble Fork Trail upstream about a mile; here a path is reported to descend to the stream at Marble Slide. Length: 15 miles Average flow: 53 cfs Watershed: 51 square miles

Middle Fork Kaweah River

The Middle Fork begins at the Great Western Divide and cuts west through deep wilderness canyons. With headwaters in the northern shadow of Mount Stewart, tributary Lone Pine Creek flows from one of the Sierra’s southernmost glaciers—a rapidly melting remnant. Hwy. 198 presses up the Middle Fork to Buckeye Flat, a few miles above Potwisha, and then turns away from the stream. Near Buckeye Flat Campground a minor trail leads to a stock bridge and excellent swimming pools. Farther up the canyon, the main Middle Fork Trail is reached from a dead-end road east of Buckeye Flat. About a mile beyond the trailhead, a path angles down to swimming holes near Length: 15 miles Average flow: 97 cfs Watershed: 103 square miles

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Middle Fork Kaweah River above Potwisha, Sequoia National Park.

the Dome Creek confluence. Perched on slopes high above the stream, the Middle Fork Trail eventually climbs to high country.

South Fork Kaweah River

The South Fork has the best native fish habitat in the Kaweah basin. Like the 21-mile North Fork, its lower reaches run through private land. South of the South Fork Ranger Station, a landslide in 1867 calved from Dennison Mountain, sweeping up whole sequoia trees from the Garfield Grove and forming a 400-foot-tall debris dam in the South Fork. After one day, the dam broke, spreading a torrent of mud, rock, and splintered wood below. The 18-mile South Fork Road offers some views of the river in its rugged canyon and ends at the South Fork Ranger Station. From there, a trail ascends the river valley 2 miles before ramping up toward headwaters. Length: 24 miles Average flow: 74 cfs Watershed: 89 square miles

Tule River Length: 71 miles (much of it dry; 90 miles with the Middle Fork and North Fork Middle Fork) Average flow: 706 cfs above Success Reservoir and diversions Watershed: 440 square miles

Forested in upper reaches and flowing through chaparral below, this small Sierra river reflects diminishing rain and snow in southern California, and also the lower elevation terrain that the river drains. The main stem forms at the Middle–North Fork SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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Middle Fork Tule River below South Fork confluence, along Hwy. 190.

confluence above Springville and flows to Success Reservoir. Canals then distribute the stream, which no longer nears its former Tulare Lake terminus. The North Fork curves through ranchland north of Springville, while the South Fork flows mainly through the Tule River Indian Reservation. The 7-mile-long Middle Fork and its branches run mostly through Sequoia National Forest, where public access is possible. WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 190 follows the main stem, Middle Fork, and South Fork of the Middle Fork, with occasional steep paths zigzagging down to the water. Above the North/Middle Fork confluence, one of these paths steps down to granite slabs with chutes between rock walls—a spectacular site badly marred by graffiti when I last visited. The best access to the Middle Fork’s delightful swimming holes is at Coffee Camp Campground, 4 miles east of Springville. To hike along the North Fork of the Middle Fork, drive east from Springville on Hwy. 190 for 8 miles and turn left on Forest Rte. 208 (Wishon Drive). In 4 miles park at the Camp Wishon trailhead for the Doyle Trail. It leads upstream with glimpses of the stream, occasional paths to the water, and stately groves of sequoias, and eventually reaches Sequoia National Park. The North Fork of the Middle Fork can also be reached in Mountain Home State Forest northeast of Springville. 214

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Kern River cataracts along Hwy. 178 below Democrat Hot Springs.

Kern River

The main stem of this southernmost Sierra river begins at the confluence of its North and South forks, now flooded under the 550,000 acre-foot Isabella Reservoir (the North Fork is now often called the “Upper Kern”). Below the dam, the “Lower Kern” plunges through chaparral and rocky grasslands of a precipitous twisting canyon in Class III–VI rapids and waterfalls for 40 miles to Bakersfield. In one of the last major diversions statewide, the popular Rio Bravo whitewater run, just downstream of the canyon, was de-watered by a 1,600-cfs withdrawal in 1989. Once out of the canyon, the lower river is diverted into canals and ditches, and water rarely reaches its historic destinations of Kern Lake, once 8,300 acres, and Buena Vista Lake, once 4,000 acres. During highwater years Buena Vista used to spill northward into Tulare Lake, and then to the San Joaquin for a total river length of 535 miles. In this rare instance, the Kern–San Joaquin was nearly as long as the Pit–Sacramento. Length: 70 miles (164 miles with the South Fork) Average flow: 845 cfs Watershed: 2,311 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Hwy. 178 east of Bakersfield passes through a memorable, roadaccessible, 13-mile reach called the Kern River cataracts, with boulder-clogged rapids, waterfalls, Forest Service picnic grounds, and pullouts for walking and fishing. This reach is also the most notorious in the state for drownings; during the past century, several hundred deaths have occurred here. (Common-sense precautions could have prevented SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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most of these.) Most people should simply stay out of the water. An especially striking and turbulent spot lies below Democrat Hot Springs Beach and Democrat Dam, about 21 miles east of Bakersfield. Through much of the year, all but 30 cfs are diverted out of the river for 10 miles from Democrat Dam to Powerhouse #1. Then the water is immediately diverted again from the remaining 2 miles of canyon. The Lower Kern below Isabella but above the cataract section has Class III–IV paddling throughout the summer with the closest reliable whitewater to southern California (commercial trips available). Just below the dam, a 20-mile Class III–IV reach with one portage (1,000–3,000 cfs) is popular. To put in from the town of Lake Isabella, drive north 1 mile on Rte. 155 and cross the river to the Slippery Rock launch. The upper section of this is an 8-mile Class III+ run to a takeout at Sandy Flat Campground, reached by turning off Hwy. 178 onto Borel Road. This section has lower flows because of hydropower diversions, allowing riverbed brush and trees to be troublesome and dangerous. Below Sandy Flat, dependable flows are restored and include Class IV rapids with a portage 13 miles below the original Slippery Rock put-in. Definitely take out at Democrat Beach; a diversion dam just below is followed by deadly waterfalls. Unlike most rivers that are low by midsummer, flows here usually continue through August and often into the autumn as a result of dam releases. Free permits are required from the Forest Service.

North Fork Kern River

Extraordinary for its wilderness, Golden Trout, free-flowing length, and whitewater, the North Fork or “Upper Kern” makes an epic descent from the western flanks of Mount Whitney—highest peak in 49 states—to foothills of the southern Sierra. More than any other Sierra stream—and unusual for mountain rivers anywhere—the North Fork flows not directly away from the high country where it begins but within a trough bounded by towering north–south ridges that parallel the Sierra crest. One of the oldest California rivers, the Kern established its route 80 million years ago, before the uplift of the current range. The stream rises in one of the most starkly rocky, snowbound basins at Lake South America, southwest of 13,180-foot Forester Pass. From a maze of glacier-scraped granite and pothole lakes the river foams into wooded canyons and picks up Whitney Creek’s snowmelt from the highest peak. The North Fork then churns through a 4,000-foot-deep canyon that follows a one-of-a-kind, relentlessly straight path for 30 miles along the Kern Canyon Fault. After running wild for 60 miles from its source, the North Fork passes under the Johnsondale Bridge. Two miles farther, at Fairview Dam, 600 cfs are diverted for 15 miles to Powerhouse #3 above Kernville, Length: 86 miles Average flow: 588 cfs Watershed: 1,026 square miles

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North Fork Kern River at Dry Meadow Creek above Johnsondale Bridge.

de-watering the river at times. Just below Fairview, the stream enters the Calkins Gorge—seen in a short walk from the road. Finally near Kernville, the gradient eases, and 2 miles below town the Upper Kern swirls to its end in Isabella Reservoir. Much of the upper basin was glaciated, but because of its southerly location and aspect, the watershed also includes the largest area of highelevation terrain in the Sierra to escape the ice. Lacking that erosive action, some upper tributaries here (and in the upper South Fork basin) have wide, shallow, meandering streams through valleys filled with alluvium. Down-cutting in the past century has probably resulted from livestock grazing and the accompanying compaction and erosion of soil. Isolated in the high unglaciated basins, Golden Trout evolved from Rainbow Trout here and took three forms according to Moyle’s Inland Fishes of California: Little Kern River Golden Trout, Volcano Creek Golden Trout, and Kern River Rainbow—together the most brilliantly colored trout in America. Though widely introduced elsewhere, the Golden Trout (California’s official state fish) has unfortunately become rare in pure genetic form. Little Kern Golden Trout were listed as threatened in 1977 after pure populations were found in only six small streams. The other varieties are Species of Special Concern. The 303,000-acre Golden Trout Wilderness was designated in the upper basin in 1978 to protect the fish, but habitat losses continue because of grazing. Sacramento Suckers are the only other native fish. From its source to 3 miles above Kernville, the North Fork is designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System (the diversion at Fairview Dam is “grandfathered” in). Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America SAN JOAQUIN BASIN

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listed the North and South forks among the top 12 California streams for the conservation of biodiversity. WHERE TO GO

This stream has the longest riverfront and canyon trail in California, though it doesn’t follow the water continuously. Its first segment begins near Lake South America and runs south about 35 miles to Hole-in-the-Ground. After a substantial detour, it returns to the river and continues downstream to the “Forks of the Kern” (the Little Kern confluence), then follows a fault line far above and away from the river on the east side of the canyon for 10 miles, finally rejoining the river for a conclusive spectacular 4 miles to Johnsondale Bridge. The upper end of this trail complex is reached via a long approach on the Pacific Crest Trail. To reach the bottom end, drive north from Kernville on Sierra Way for 20 miles to the Johnsondale Bridge. On the east side of the bridge the trail leads upstream with views of rapids and tributary chasms such as Dry Meadow Creek, whose tiered stair-step of waterfalls and pothole pools on the other side of the river can be seen by scrambling up the canyon slope above the trail. Dry Meadow’s famed Seven Teacups are another series of falls and pools farther up the tributary. Here above Johnsondale Bridge the Kern’s riverfront trail is pleasant in spring when Sierra high country remains snowed in and when the river is raging, and also in the fall after the low-elevation heat slackens; beware of poison oak. Trails also follow several North Fork tributaries. In one of the most remote areas of the Sierra, Big Arroyo—a valley spectacularly swept into a U-shape by one of the Sierra’s southernmost glaciers—drops to the upper river from the east slope of the Great Western Divide and can be reached by crossing from Mineral King via Sawtooth Pass and Lost Canyon Creek. The trail then follows along Big Arroyo for 10 miles. Larger, the Little Kern River tumbles 24 miles from peaks of the Great Western Divide; its headwaters are reached by trail from Mineral King via Farewell Gap. The trail leads downstream for 8 miles before veering away from the waterway. Below the Johnsondale Bridge the paved Sierra Way parallels the river to Kernville with campgrounds, accesses, pullouts, and paths along forested benches, gravel bars, powerful rapids, and quiet interludes ideal for careful swimming. Below the Johnsondale Bridge, and upstream from Limestone Campground, Brush Creek enters from the east after several miles of steep pitches and transparent swimming holes; the farther up you go, the fewer people you’ll find on summer weekends, when the roaded section of the Upper Kern becomes mobbed, trashed, and noisy. While the basin is famous for its endemic golden trout, the sport fishery is largely stocked. Rainbow Trout are planted between Johnsondale Bridge and Isabella Lake and attract summertime anglers. Smallmouth Bass swim up from Isabella Reservoir and are caught below Kernville. 218

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The North Fork is legendary for whitewater. The “Forks of the Kern” is a 17-mile, Class V (800–3,000 cfs) raft and kayak run from the mouth of the 24-mile-long Little Kern through pristine wilderness (commercial trips available). In California Whitewater, Cassady and Calhoun call it “one of the finest stretches of expert whitewater on earth.” Gear must be packed in—most people prefer mules—via a 2-mile trail; from Johnsondale drive north on Lloyd Meadows Road for 19 miles, turn right on a dirt road at the “Forks of the Kern” sign, and continue 2 miles to the trailhead. Setting this river apart from most other raft runs, the put-in is a lofty 4,680 feet, and so the scenery is mountains, not foothills. Eighty rapids include five Class V drops. Above the Johnsondale Bridge, Carson Falls’ randomly pulsing hydraulic is portaged by some prudent boaters. Below the bridge the North Fork offers another 21 miles of Class IV–V paddling with portages at Fairview Dam, 2.4 miles down, and Salmon Falls at 7.5 miles (see California Whitewater and the “California Creeks” website). Flow here is reduced by diversions. Free boating permits are required from the Forest Service above Powerhouse #3. Below there, 2 miles of Class I–III rapids serve as the local intermediate or whitewater canoe run to Kernville’s Riverside Park; 2 more miles continue to Isabella Reservoir.

South Fork Kern River

Rising south of Mount Whitney and east of the North Fork Kern, the South Fork heads due south for 78 miles and then southwest for another 16 to Isabella Reservoir. This is California’s longest nearly impoundment-free river. It threads its way through inaccessible canyons with native fish and in lower elevations nourishes southern California’s largest cottonwood forest. Collecting waters from the Boreal Plateau and 11,000-foot peaks, the upper South Fork’s forested headwaters cross the Golden Trout Wilderness. The river cuts through deep gorges, granite outcrops, and meadows reached only by unimproved roads and trails. Then it penetrates the Domeland Wilderness—virtually inaccessible bouldered terrain. Even though the river ultimately flows off the west side of the Sierra, it runs most its length on the eastern side of the highest peaks and therefore lies in a rainshadow that collects less runoff. Because it connects both high and low elevations and also the Sierra and Mojave ecosystems, the South Fork hosts exceptionally diverse plant life—whitebark pine to Joshua tree. Audubon California’s Kern River Preserve, California Department of Fish and Game’s Cranebrake Ecological Reserve, and Sequoia National Forest’s South Fork Wildlife Area protect 10 of 14 lower river miles where Fremont cottonwoods and red willows grow large. The Yellow-billed Cuckoo—endangered in the state—can be found in the 2,900-acre Length: 94 miles Average flow: 115 cfs Watershed: 527 square miles

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South Fork Kern River and cottonwood forest above Isabella Reservoir.

Audubon tract. Among 325 bird species found here, the endangered southwestern Willow Flycatcher and rare Summer Tanager can also occasionally be seen. Nearly 72 miles of the South Fork are in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. WHERE TO GO

The upper basin’s Monache Meadows can be reached from the east by foot on the Olancha Pass Trail; take Hwy. 395 about 5 miles south of Rte. 190, and turn west on Sage Flat Road. The trail leads to the Pacific Crest Trail, which crosses the South Fork and follows it south 9 miles to Kennedy Meadows. By car, this popular spot is reached by taking Hwy. 395 north from Ridgecrest 15 miles, then turn west on Nine Mile Canyon and Kennedy Meadow Roads and climb steeply for 25 miles. The Audubon Preserve and Cranebreak Reserve offer good trails: take Hwy. 178 east of Bakersfield for 60 miles to Weldon; just beyond Sierra Way turn north into the preserve. Cranebreak’s entrance is 10 miles farther on 178. The lower South Fork can be seen as it enters Isabella Reservoir; from Hwy. 178 turn north on Sierra Way and drive to the bridge. The South Fork is not considered a boatable river. I’ve taken a 3-mile canoe paddle through the preserve but not without encountering trees, barbed-wire fences, and a dry section where the stream soaks into gravel even in fairly high runoff, forcing me to drag and carry through the woods.

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Redding

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Sacramento

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395

Stockton

San Francisco

San Jose

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1

Fresno

Salinas 5

Central Coast 101

395 99

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Barstow 40 101

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Pescadero Creek

The second-largest stream between the Golden Gate and Monterey Bay, heavily forested Pescadero Creek runs to sea from the Santa Cruz Mountains. It flows through Portola State Park and the expansive Pescadero Creek County Park, which combined with adjacent reserves total 8,000 acres. Steelhead and a few Coho Salmon spawn here, with potential for restoration. The lower creek meanders through one of the larger coastal marshlands. An Army Corps of Engineers dam proposed in 1971 would have flooded much of the creek up to the county park, but was defeated by citizen action. Subsequent plans to develop the area were likewise halted. Now the lightly used parks offer a remote getaway near the Bay Area. Length: 27 miles Average flow: 35 cfs Watershed: 60 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Take Rte. 84 east from Hwy. 101 past La Honda to the northern end of the Pescadero Road, turn south, and go 5 miles to the county park. Paths lead downstream from the bridge through second-growth but large redwoods. Marshes of lower Pescadero Creek are important to Pacific Flyway waterfowl and also threatened Red-legged Frogs. A path leads to wetlands near the southern end of the Pescadero Road, about a mile up from the ocean. Siltation caused by historic logging upstream has reportedly made the marsh shallower and intensified flooding. The creek enters the Pacific at Pescadero Beach State Park, where one can easily walk to the mouth.

Pescadero Creek winds through tidal marshes east of Hwy. 1. 224

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Butano Creek is a 15-mile-long tributary entering Pescadero near the sea. Upstream, Butano State Park features trails along redwood-lined waters.

Gazos Creek

South of Pescadero Creek, this little stream rises in second-growth redwoods bordering Big Basin Redwoods State Park and reaches the Pacific at Gazos Creek State Beach. In the 1990s a large tract was acquired from the timber industry and added to Butano State Park, and stream restoration efforts began. Coho once spawned here, and Steelhead still migrate in winter. On Hwy. 101 just north of Ano Nuevo State Reserve, turn east on the Gazos Creek Road. This paved byway makes for an excellent bike ride of about 7 miles into the recovering redwood canyon, and a short trail follows the creek at the end of the road. The stream empties into the Pacific at a beautiful and accessible beach bordered by cliffs of mudstone, shale, and conglomerate. Length: 10 miles Average flow: 10 cfs Watershed: 11 square miles

San Lorenzo River Length: 29 miles Average flow: 118 cfs Watershed: 115 square miles

Largest river between the Golden Gate and Salinas River, the San Lorenzo takes its headwaters from Big Basin and Castle Rock state parks, riffles through

San Lorenzo River with bigleaf maples upstream from Santa Cruz. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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a developed redwood corridor, enters Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, then bisects Santa Cruz before flushing to sea. This stream has one of the southernmost runs of Coho and some Steelhead (probably hatchery strays), but the once-rich fishery has all but disappeared, prompting efforts by the San Lorenzo Restoration Institute to repair shorelines in hopes of bringing the fish back. WHERE TO GO

Cowell Redwoods State Park features shaded trails and remote passages under Douglas-firs, redwoods, and bigleaf maples that feel wilder than the river’s urban headwaters and mouth might lead one to expect. Drive to the park entrance or to several Rte. 9 pulloffs between Santa Cruz and Felton. The river ends in sand-waves roiling out to sea at a public beach alongside the Santa Cruz Amusement Park. This is an exciting Class III–IV whitewater run after winter rains (500–1,500 cfs), though logs can be serious hazards. Expert paddlers can put in at the state park bridge and take out at the amusement park or at town bridges. Aptos Creek is another notable stream in the Santa Cruz area. From Hwy. 101 in Aptos, trails reach to several stream crossings in the Forest of Nisene Marks State Park.

Salinas River

Draining the interior of California’s central Coast Range and reaching north to Monterey Bay, the Salinas is the seventh-longest river in California and nourishes one of the state’s most extensive (though little known) riparian corridors in mid-reaches. However, because of diversions, groundwater pumping, and natural percolation into gravel, much of the mileage becomes dry or nearly so in summer and when upstream reservoirs don’t spill. The river begins in a valley of chaparral and oak savanna between the dry La Panza Range and Garcia Mountains southeast of Atascadero, then winds through ranchland to Santa Margarita Reservoir. Often reduced to wet algae, the outflow trickles northwestward through Atascadero and Paso Robles, picks up inflow from tributaries, and continues east of Hwy. 101 in a scenic valley with cottonwoods and bluffs, past the San Ardo oil fields, and then through miles of farmland. Santa Margarita is the only large dam. The middle and lower river’s broad valley is sandwiched between the Santa Lucia Range to the west and the Gabilan Range to the east. Pale rock of the Gabilan represents the Salinian block—granite that has migrated north with the Pacific Plate (the San Andreas Fault lies just east of these mountains). The highly erodible basin results in an aggrading river—that is, more sediment is washed in from the crumbling seisimic mountains Length: 188 miles Average flow: 388 cfs (often nearly dry in lower reaches) Watershed: 3,955 square miles

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Salinas River and willows at high flow downstream from San Arno.

than the river can wash away, resulting in shallow braided channels much like rivers in newly glaciated terrain. The lower river passes southwest of Salinas, along public open space at the old site of Fort Ord (closed in 1994), and into Monterey Bay. Before the 1906 earthquake the river emptied into Elkhorn Slough at Moss Landing, 5 miles north of its current site. Like a miniature Central Valley, the Salinas Valley is farmed throughout and intensively cultivated from King City north (downstream), with irrigation drawdowns. As a result, the riverbed is often reduced to dust and the tracks of all-terrain vehicles. The Trust for Public Land reported in 2001 that the Salinas had the worst polluted runoff in the state. However, from Paso Robles to King City, and especially to the oil fields of San Ardo, the midsection of this largely forgotten river has a wide belt of sycamores, black cottonwoods, and black willows in one of California’s best riparian forest corridors. With surrounding hills of oak savanna, abundant bird life, and great beauty in the springtime, this reach has potential for restoration as an important wildlife and scenic waterway. The Salinas’ principal water source is in the Santa Lucia Range to the west where the 65-mile Nacimiento River flows through the Hunter Liggett Army Base and can be seen in a wooded crossing of the Nacimiento– Fergusson Road, which connects the Salinas Valley to the Big Sur Coast. The Nacimiento then traverses an outstanding oak savanna and supports the endangered Arroyo Toad. Below a 350,000-acre-foot reservoir, the lower Nacimiento and its riparian corridor join the Salinas north of Paso Robles. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Similarly, the 40-mile San Antonio River rises on the eastern flanks of Cone Peak. Its diminutive North Fork winds through oak savanna, and the main stem passes through the Hunter Liggett Base, then directly behind Mission San Antonio and into San Antonio Reservoir before joining the Salinas just north of the Nacimiento. The lower ends of both these tributaries can be seen from Hwy. 101. Little-known but interesting, San Lorenzo Creek (not the East Bay stream) rises in the San Andreas Rift Zone and crosses pasture and oak savanna that’s beautifully green in late March. Here, east of King City, the Peachtree Valley makes an excellent springtime road-biking trip with occasional views of the river; California ranch country might have looked like this a century ago. Just south of the San Lorenzo, Pancho Rico Creek cuts a canyon unlike any I’ve seen through 300-foot-deep soil right next to the San Andreas Rift Zone. Posted land prevents a close view of this unusual feature. Just north of the Salinas’ mouth and formerly a part of the lower basin, the 40-mile-long Pajaro River and its San Benito River headwaters drain arid mountains and the agricultural Pajaro Valley, once known for immense cottonwoods. Some riparian habitat remains, but diminished by diversions and pumping, the lower river is ditched through farmland and reaches the sea as a sad victim of channelization at Palm Beach. WHERE TO GO

Some public access is available on riverfront trails in Paso Robles. At King City, San Lorenzo Regional Park borders the river; from the Broadway exit of Hwy. 101 east of the bridge, turn north and immediately left to enter the park (fees). The river can be reached just past the entrance station, and a pedestrian bridge crosses, but no trails follow the river. The mouth of the Salinas can be seen by walking south 2 miles from Salinas River State Beach; going south on Hwy. 1 south of Moss Landing, turn right on Molera Road, pass the Monterey Dunes Colony entrance, park, and walk south. Stay on wet sand at lower tide levels; dry sand is habitat of the imperiled Snowy Plover, fragile native vegetation blankets the dunes, and the condo property is posted. After winter rains, the Salinas has the largest nontidal current entering the ocean south of the Eel and empties with massive turbulence that is well worth the walk. Attempting to canoe the Salinas, Schwind (West Coast River Touring) reported dry channels, barbed wire, trash, and pollution. He also had fiascos kayaking the Nacimiento and San Antonio. However, I’ve found delightful canoeing on the Salinas after winter rains on a few hundred cfs for 12 miles from San Ardo to San Lucas, south of King City. I enjoyed a thick belt of willows, cottonwoods, box elders, and sycamores; no development or roads; and a constant swift current of muddy Class I water (plus stiff headwinds). Birding was excellent, and I saw more beavers than anywhere else in California. Put in on 228

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the west side of the San Ardo bridge, and take out with a bit of a carry on the east side of the San Lucas bridge (turn west from 101 half a mile north of the 101 bridge). Even better, just upstream, the 12-mile Bradley–San Ardo section appears doable in high runoff with elegant scenery of riparian forest, bluffs, and no development, though Schwind years ago reported a culvert to run and some fences. A path to the river lies on the east side of the Bradley bridge. Releases from Nacimiento Reservoir may occasionally make summer canoeing possible. Upstream at San Miguel, the Salinas flows far less often without the Nacimiento’s input. Here a path reaches the Salinas’ west side; from 101 take Mission Street north a mile and then River Road east to the bridge. Though hazards here are unknown, high flows make an interesting network of brushy sloughs through the riparian forest.

Arroyo Seco River

The finest stream on the east side of the Coast Range south of Cache Creek, Arroyo Seco is the only major Salinas tributary without dams, and also has a popular recreation area. Flowing from the western flanks of Junipero Serra Peak, the stream passes cliff faces and eroded streambanks that show the complex geology of the coastal mountains. Arroyo Seco once had the strongest Steelhead run in the region; a small number still spawn here and in 14-mile-long tributary Tassajara Creek—together, the last viable run in the troubled Salinas Basin. The rare Southwestern Pond Turtle also survives here, and below its canyons the river has one of the larger sycamore forests in California in a reach threatened by gravel mining. Rather than heading straight into the Salinas, lower Arroyo Seco is shunted north 8 miles by buildup of its massive alluvial fan where it exits its canyon, and for much of the year it dries up. The Forest Service determined that 18 miles are eligible for National Wild and Scenic River status, and a bill in 2009 included designation for 35 miles including tributaries Tassajara and Church creeks. Length: 45 miles Average flow: 46 cfs Watershed: 295 square miles

WHERE TO GO

From Hwy. 101 in south Greenfield, turn west on G16 and follow Arroyo Seco Road. The canyon has a popular Forest Service picnic area, swimming holes, and hiking sites (fees are aggressively collected by private contractors). From the road’s end, a closed road/ trail heads upriver for 2.5 miles to Santa Lucia Creek, and then on to Willow Creek where a pack bridge crosses. Mountain biking is excellent on Indians Road, which leads south from Willow Creek to the Hunter Liggett Army Base with its magnificent oak savanna. According to Schwind’s West Coast River Touring, a Class III–IV paddling reach on CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Arroyo Seco in winter–spring was complicated by brush and fences between the picnic area and the G16 bridge (also see Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

Carmel River

Meeting the Pacific at the southern end of Carmel, this willow-lined stream and its Miller Fork drain the northern Santa Lucia Range. Flows swell with winter rains, but decades of regulation by upstream dams have left the riverbed thick with vegetation. Diversions, two dams, and development have reduced once-great Steelhead runs to a few hundred fish. The river still supports endangered California Red-legged Frogs. San Clemente Dam—sediment-filled in this highly erodible basin—is considered unsafe, and in 2010 an agreement was reached to remove the 106-foot-high structure. Los Padres Dam’s capacity has likewise been reduced from 3,000 to 2,000 acre-feet (and worsening) by siltation. Determined to build another silt-trap, the Monterey Peninsula Water District and a private company in 1998 proposed a 282-foot-high New Los Padres Dam 25 miles above the mouth. It would flood vineyards, sacred sites to the Esselen Indians, and the Ventana Wilderness, but local opposition halted the project. In 2009 Congressman Sam Farr introduced Wild and Scenic River legislation for the upper Carmel, Arroyo Seco, and San Antonio rivers. Length: 40 miles Average flow: 91 cfs Watershed: 252 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The mouth of the Carmel features a substantial coastal wetland and an example of a lagoon estuary where the river’s outlet is blocked by sandbars except during high runoff. From Hwy. 1 at the southern end of Carmel, take Rio Road west, in 0.6 miles turn left on Lasuen Drive, go 0.3 miles and left on 15th Avenue, then 0.3 miles and left on Carmelo to Carmel State Beach. A marsh on the north side is complemented by a tract of increasingly rare coastal scrub plant community on the south side, reached by trail when the river is not overflowing its bar. Just south, a system of lagoons has been restored by California State Parks. Development fills much of the lower Carmel Valley, but 10 miles up, Garland Ranch Regional Park offers some riverfront walking. Farther upstream, Carmel Valley Road bends away, leaving wilder headwaters. Trails along the upper Carmel and Miller Fork can be reached by turning from the Carmel Valley Road onto the Cachagua or James Burr–Tassajara roads. Boating is not recommended. Knowing little about paddling here, I decided to give it a try, launching my canoe on a swift 600 cfs at Garland Park after a winter storm. I was immediately blocked by hazardous fallen trees and brush, and barely made it to the flooded shoreline. 230

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Big Sur River

The Big Sur River drops through some of the southernmost redwood groves, steep chaparral, and floodplain sycamore forests to a wild Pacific beach. Flowing perennially and lacking storage dams, diversions, and much development, this is the best natural river on the West Coast south of San Francisco and the largest stream on the west side of the Santa Lucia Range. The North and South forks (7 miles each) gather on slopes where tanoak and California bay laurel intermingle with redwoods growing in clustered groves on cooler slopes of the deep canyon. The river riffles through Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and along Hwy. 1, enters Andrew Molera State Park, and finally curves through coastal scrub to a spectacular beach. Three sulfur hot springs bubble up in the canyon, a Rainbow Trout fishery benefits from the foggy microclimate and rugged terrain that limits fishing access, and the river supports a southern Steelhead run. Both North and South forks and 7 miles of the main stem are designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. Seven miles to the north, the Little Sur River also winds to the Pacific and may be the most important spawning stream for the threatened Central Coast Steelhead. The view from a Hwy. 1 overlook south of the outlet is one of the most picturesque among all river mouths on the West Coast. Length: 16 miles (23 miles with the North Fork) Average flow: 101 cfs Watershed: 59 square miles

Big Sur River at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Also on the Big Sur Coast, Willow Creek rushes over a tidal cobble bar 2 miles north of Gorda. This is one of few coastal streams completely protected in public ownership, and still supports threatened Southern Steelhead. For difficult access to its rugged canyon, turn east off Hwy. 1 just north of Gorda on Forest Service 23S01, go 2 miles, and take the overgrown, poison oak–infested trail north. Ten miles farther south on Hwy. 1, Salmon Creek can be reached by a good Forest Service trail that runs 2 miles up from the ocean, climbing steeply and then returning to the creek. Finally, San Carpoforo Creek lies at the southern end of the Big Sur Coast and supports Steelhead, Foothill Yellow-legged Frogs, and California Red-legged Frogs. Most of the basin is in the Hearst Estate, but the outlet can be reached from the Hwy. 1 bridge. WHERE TO GO

Andrew Molera State Park provides access to a mile-long trail to the mouth of the Big Sur River and one of the more memorable river-and-ocean views on the Coast. Hwy. 1 follows the river north of the community of Big Sur. The upper river is reached from Pine Ridge Trail in Los Padres National Forest, east of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The lower river is one of few in the central/southcoast coast region that can be canoed on high winter runoff. For a Class II run of several miles, with portage over a low dam, put in at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and take out west of Hwy. 101 in Andrew Molera State Park (fees).

Sisquoc River

A rare wild and undammed river in the Coast Ranges of southern California, the Sisquoc tumbles in a rugged canyon of dense forest and chaparral bounded by towering ridgelines on both sides. The stream gathers headwaters on the flanks of 6,828-foot Big Pine Mountain, which marks the triple junction of the Sierra Madre, San Rafael, and Santa Ynez ranges. The stream then reaches northwest to the Cuyama River. Most of the Sisquoc lies within the Los Padres National Forest and San Rafael Wilderness, and much of the watershed burned in the 2007 Zaca fire. On tributary Horse Creek, a low dam was removed in 2007 to accommodate Steelhead, which occasionally return to the basin during episodic high water. Trout lurk in the river and tributaries, though the main stem is overrun by alien Redeye Bass. The upper basin offers prime habitat for the endangered California Condor, and Mountain Lions and bears are found. An interesting mix of plants includes Coulter pine, big-cone Douglas-fir, Jeffrey pine, ponderosa pine, California white oak, Fremont cottonwood, California sycamore, and the southernmost stand of rare Sargent cypress. Length: 58 miles Average flow: 11 cfs Watershed: 470 square miles

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Sisquoc River (right center), San Rafael Wilderness.

The lower river crosses through private land, is heavily diverted for farming, and is normally dry. From its source to the lower National Forest boundary, 33 miles of the Sisquoc are in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. East of the Sisquoc, the 108-mile Cuyama River rises on the arid east side of the Sierra Madre where withdrawals, pumping, and an aggrading riverbed quickly exhaust the small flow. Below Twinchell Reservoir (often dry) the Cuyama and Sisquoc form the Santa Maria, which runs intermittently for 25 miles to its mouth north of Point Sal State Beach; the braided, aggrading riverbed can be seen at the Hwy. 1 crossing at Guadalupe. Along with the Amargosa and Mojave, the 133-mile-long Cuyama–Santa Maria is one of the longest intermittent waterways in California. WHERE TO GO

The wild Sisquoc is difficult to reach, with long approaches over rough roads and burnt-over trails. From Los Olivos, east of Hwy. 101, take the scenic Figueroa Mountain Road north and east to the Cachuma Saddle, turn north on the dirt Sunset Valley Road, and go four miles to a trailhead. From there it’s about 5 miles sharply down to the river and to a trail that runs both upstream and down. See the Los Padres National Forest, Santa Lucia Ranger District map. Beware of poison oak, rattlesnakes, and heat. The little-used trail, which I’ve not yet had the opportunity to hike, runs the 31-mile wilderness length of the river and may present one of the greater wild river adventures on the central/south coast. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Santa Ynez River

This small river through rugged crumbling terrain and chaparral begins high in the Santa Ynez Mountains— westernmost of the five Transverse Ranges that angle east–west across southern California. Impounded at Juncal Dam, the Santa Ynez then enters Gibraltar Reservoir, which is nearly filled with silt. A road-accessible recreational reach follows down to the 205,000-acre-foot Cachuma Reservoir. Water is then diverted by tunnel to Santa Barbara, leaving the remains of the lower river normally trickling toward the Pacific west of Lompoc through one of California’s larger tidal marshes. The stream above Cachuma Reservoir retains some rare habitat for the endangered Arroyo Toad, threatened Red-legged Frog, and Western Pond Turtle; a riparian corridor of willows and cottonwoods also supports the endangered Bell’s Vireo. Before it was dammed and reduced to soggy mats of algae during low flows, the Santa Ynez was probably the top Steelhead stream in southern California. Length: 93 miles Average flow: 71 cfs Watershed: 862 square miles

WHERE TO GO

A popular recreation stream, the Santa Ynez passes Forest Service campgrounds, picnic areas, and fishing accesses between Gibraltar and Cachuma reservoirs. The Red Rock Trail leads to swimming holes below Gibraltar. When water is flowing, anglers fish for stocked Rainbows. East of Hwy. 101, take Rte. 246 through Santa Ynez,

Santa Ynez River above Cachuma Reservoir. 234

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turn right on 154 (Armor Ranch Road) past Cachuma Reservoir to Paradise and Gibraltar roads. To see the mouth and its vast wetland, take Hwy. 1 to Lompoc, then Ocean Avenue west toward Surf for 8 miles, and bear right to Ocean Park.

Ventura River

From the Santa Ynez Mountains the Ventura slants south through chaparral and then west to the ocean at the urbanizing north end of Ventura. Steelhead runs of 4,000 per year have dwindled to 200 or less. A dam on the primary tributary, 17-mile-long Matilija Creek, accounts for much of the loss and also traps sand needed on popular Pacific beaches. The local Matilija Coalition seeks to remove the 200-foottall structure, now 93 percent full of sediment and serving no purpose. Nineteen miles of spawning habitat would be opened above the dam. Foster County Park offers nominal access to the uneventful lower Ventura; from Hwy. 101 in Ventura take Rte. 33 north 6 miles. The river begins at the confluence of Matilija and North Fork Matilija creeks; follow Rte. 33 north from the Ojai turnoff for 3 miles, turn left at a bridge, and scramble down to the bouldered confluence. To see Matilija Dam, continue on Rte. 33 for another mile, turn left, and go to a high turnout. A trail ascends the North Fork of Matilija; drive 4 miles past the reservoir to a gate, walk a mile up the road to the North Fork, and swing right up the trail. Length: 16 miles (33 miles with Matilija Creek) Average flow: 39 cfs Watershed: 220 square miles

Santa Clara River

The second-largest watershed in southern California, the Santa Clara for now remains relatively unurbanized and without much channelization of its bed and banks. It begins north of Valencia and runs west through some of the best remaining riparian forest in the south and crosses vast farmlands before reaching the Pacific at Ventura. Flows vary from zero to crests of 160,000 cfs in the broad gravel bed. The valley graphically illustrates the severe hydrologic effect of the fire– flood sequence in chaparral basins of southern California: intense wildfires are followed by erosion and debris torrents that pump sediment into the streams. Massive amounts of unconsolidated alluvium allow river water during low flows to percolate into the bed, often leaving a dry channel. At the Piru and Fillmore Narrows, constrictions of bedrock force groundwater back to the surface and create somewhat perennial flows. Because of the Santa Clara’s size, morphology, southern latitude, and relatively undeveloped condition, it maintains a high but threatened level of biodiversity; the Nature Conservancy lists 38 imperiled species. In an Length: 84 miles Average flow: 190 cfs Watershed: 1,485 square miles

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Santa Clara River at Valencia Village, west of I-5.

interesting twist of morphology/ecology, some rare species are protected by dried-up reaches, which prevent the influx of alien fish that would otherwise swim upstream and displace natives. The Santa Clara and neighboring Ventura rivers host two of the southernmost remnant Steelhead runs. But on the lower Santa Clara the Freeman Diversion Dam reduces migration to the best spawning grounds in Sespe Creek. A fish ladder installed in 1990 proved ineffective. California Trout sued in 2009 to require improved passage; negotiations are under way. Friends of the Santa Clara River has opposed plans to build a new city for 70,000 residents along 5 miles of the stream west of Interstate 5 (I-5). On the lower river, the Nature Conservancy has protected key tracts, and a coalition of land trusts and agencies has organized under the Santa Clara Parkway project of the California Coastal Conservancy, with the intent to acquire one-third of the riverfront below Fillmore for protection. WHERE TO GO

Bridges offer nominal views of the mostly dry channel, but a pleasant willow-lined reach of the middle river can be seen, with permission at the gate, from the Valencia RV Travel Village one mile west of I-5 on Hwy. 126. Public use of the river is limited, but the Parkway Project plans for access and trails, and some Nature Conservancy properties can be visited by appointment. At the mouth, Peninsula and McGrath state beaches are among few undeveloped beaches in the greater Los Angeles urban area and illustrate the importance of sand and silt delivered to the coast by this and other rivers. 236

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Sespe Creek

The largest undammed stream in southern California, Sespe Creek has rare southern trout habitat in a forbidding canyon within the steep erodible amalgam of the Santa Ynez Mountains. It meets the Santa Clara north of Fillmore. Sespe crosses one of the nation’s largest roadless areas (500,000 acres) lying near a major metro area; the stream is accessible by road only at its upper and lower ends. It flows mostly through Los Padres National Forest, including 8 miles in the Sespe Condor Sanctuary. Cliffs rise 500 feet, and the water cuts through layers of flaking sandstones and crumbling conglomerates sharply folded by faults. Remains of prehistoric settlements and rock art lie hidden. Water levels vary from a trickle to torrents of 70,000 cfs, which flush sediment from pools where it accumulates. These deep holes are essential for native trout by providing refuge from the warm water in summer. Sand transported to the ocean by the flooding river is essential to counteract beach erosion from Point Mugu south. With southern California’s finest trout water, 25 miles of the Sespe are designated a Wild Trout fishery. Once-plentiful runs of Steelhead are mostly blocked by the Freeman Diversion Dam on the Santa Clara, where modifications are being discussed. Total regional runs of 60,000 fish have been reduced to 500 spread across San Luis Obispo Creek, Santa Ynez River, Sespe Creek–Santa Clara River, Ventura River, Malibu Creek, and San Mateo Creek. Among these, biologists regard Sespe as the best for Length: 61 miles Average flow: 33 cfs Watershed: 258 square miles

Sespe Creek and cottonwoods at Rte. 33. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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restoration potential. A few Pacific Lamprey enter, and the upper creek has one of the largest populations of the Arroyo Toad. Lion Campground, along the river east of Hwy. 33, was closed because the endangered amphibians were being killed on campground roads. National Wild and Scenic River designation protects 32 miles below Howard Creek but excludes headwaters, a midsection where a dam was proposed between Chorro Grade and Bear canyons, and the lower 8 miles where levees guard farms and housing. Friends of the River has proposed further designation. WHERE TO GO

The stream can be reached north of Ojai on Hwy. 33, which crosses the river and then bends upstream in Sespe Gorge. The creek can also be reached via Rose Valley Road; turn east off Hwy. 33 about 2 miles south of the Sespe Valley, and go 5 miles to the former Lion Campground (give toads the right of way!). Below Hwy. 33 and at the former Lion Campground a rough trail follows the river downstream to Alder Creek before veering away. The wild canyons below Hwy. 33 are visited by backpackers, campers, horseback riders, and occasional expert whitewater boaters who catch high flows and portage in various places. Anglers fish for stocked and resident Rainbow Trout, which manage to survive in some of the deeper pools.

Piru Creek

Piru Creek traverses a semiwild headwaters and then is dammed twice, but in between cuts a dramatic rocky canyon through the formidable south face of the Santa Ynez Mountains before finally joining the Santa Clara River east of Fillmore. Reaping rain and snowmelt from the north side of the Pine Mountain massif as well as the south side of towering 8,286-foot Mount Pinos, Piru wanders east through remote terrain to I-5 south of Tejon Pass. There it’s impounded by Pyramid Dam, which principally stores California Aqueduct water en route from the delta to Castaic Reservoir and points south. Below the dam, a small share of the mixed waters reemerge as lower Piru Creek. The release pushes 10 miles through Falls Gorge and crosses the San Gabriel Fault, replete with tilted strata, crumbling cliffs, and buttery sliding mountainsides 2,500 feet high. This trail-less reach may be the most rugged canyon in all the southern mountains. It emerges in Santa Felicia Reservoir 5 miles upstream from the Santa Clara River. Threatened Santa Ana Suckers survive in the upper river, and below Pyramid Dam the creek supports one of only three catch-and-release trout fisheries in southern California. The Forest Service classified this canyon for high ecologic significance, because it provides habitat for the Length: 71 miles Average flow: 56 cfs Watershed: 413 square miles

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Piru Creek enters a forbidding gorge below Pyramid Dam, west of I-5.

endangered Arroyo Toad, California Red-legged Frog, Bell’s Vireo, southwestern Willow Flycatcher, California Condor, and Southern Steelhead. The California Wild Heritage Act proposed 54 miles of upper and lower Piru as a Wild and Scenic River; 7 miles were designated in the lower canyon in 2009. WHERE TO GO

Along the upper creek, trails lead to scoured pools called the “Fishbowls.” From I-5 just north of Tejon Pass go west to Frazier Park. Two miles farther turn left on Lockwood Valley Road, go about 9 miles, and turn left on Mutau Road; go 6 miles to Piru Creek, and hike upstream 6 miles (see the southern Los Padres National Forest map). The creek can readily be seen from Frenchman’s Flat below Pyramid Dam; exit I-5 at Templin Highway north of Castaic Reservoir, and head north on the weedy old Hwy. 99 paralleling the interstate for 8 miles to a recreation site below the dam. Paths lead to the entrance of the inaccessible canyon. This area gets heavy use and is plagued by litter and graffiti. Fishing for wild and stocked Rainbow Trout is best in January– April below Pyramid Dam; walk upstream from Frenchman’s Flat on an old road with access to the stream. With difficulty, anglers can bushwhack downstream a short distance from the recreation area. Below the dam, Falls Gorge is an expert Class IV kayak run according to Tuthill’s “California Creeks” website, with at least one portage in the 15-mile reach and zero opportunity to walk out. The needed 230 cfs occurs only occasionally with winter dam releases. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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The hydropower relicensing of the lower dam, Santa Felicia, requires releases for kayaking in September–October for the 6-mile Class III run to the Santa Clara River, with brush, a diversion dam, and other obstacles (see www.americanwhitewater.org).

Malibu Creek

One of the most scenic and accessible streams in southern California, Malibu Creek cuts through the Santa Monica Mountains and reaches the ocean at Malibu. For 9 miles it winds through the popular Malibu Creek State Park with twisted sycamores, volcanic cliffs, and a year-round flow. The lower stream supports one of the southernmost Steelhead runs, and the imperiled Arroyo Chub still survives here, but most of the creek’s spawning habitat is blocked by Rindge Dam, 100 feet high in the lower canyon. Built in 1926 to supply water to a local ranch, the reservoir filled with silt in 25 years and has been a repository of mud ever since. Efforts to remove the outmoded dam and return Steelhead to the upper watershed have thus far been stalled. Length: 13 miles Average flow: 10 cfs Watershed: 106 square miles

WHERE TO GO

If you want to walk along a seminatural stream close to Los Angeles, this is a great place to go. Take Hwy. 1 north, turn west onto Malibu Canyon Road, and go 6 miles to the park (fees). Paths lead to swimming holes, small rapids, and excellent views with the rugged Goat Rocks in the background. Rindge Dam lies about 2.5 miles

Malibu Creek and Goat Buttes at Malibu Creek State Park. 240

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up Malibu Canyon Road from Hwy. 1. Though not visible from a car, the startling sight of the dam’s weathered concrete face and silt-choked reservoir can be seen by walking along the shoulder of the road. Of note nearby, Big Sycamore Canyon and its small stream are highlights at the western end of the Santa Monica Mountains. Just off Hwy. 1 at Point Mugu State Park, this canyon is one of the best places to see California sycamores lining a floodplain. Big Sycamore Canyon Trail climbs into the mountains.

Los Angeles River

Collecting runoff from the Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains, this river slants southeast through the San Fernando Valley, turns south at Griffith Park, then continues through downtown Los Angeles to the Port of Long Beach. It is perhaps the most completely urbanized and channelized major stream in America. Three-quarters of the bed is enclosed as a cement drain or box culvert, and 400 miles of tributaries are likewise lined in concrete. Historic intermittent runoff has become year-round in most of the river because of wastewater discharges. The cement enclosures were built to constrain floods, which historically spread in multiple braids across the broad plain. The Los Angeles Basin, in fact, is principally made of an alluvial fan of mud-torrent sediment built up by recurrent spills of the Los Angeles, San Gabriel, and Santa Ana rivers over the millennia. Length: 52 miles Average flow: 181 cfs Watershed: 806 square miles

Los Angeles River in a section not fully channelized south of Griffith Park. CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Portions of the main stem not completely paved over are the Sepulveda flood control basin (a public park behind a dam that’s filled only during floods), the Glendale Narrows for 8 miles east of Griffith and Elysian parks, where shallow groundwater prevented the cementing of the riverbed, and the lower river below Willow Street in Long Beach. The endemic and imperiled Arroyo Chub, Santa Ana Sucker, and Speckled Dace have survived in short sections of tributaries and in the neighboring San Gabriel and Santa Ana rivers. Beginning in 1986, Friends of the Los Angeles River mounted a heroic campaign to restore as much of their waterway as possible, and in 2007 the City of Los Angeles adoped a Revitalization Master Plan for 32 miles of river. A coalition of groups has strived to reconnect Griffith Park with the mountains via the river, and the Los Angeles and San Gabriel Rivers Watershed Council works to restore and enhance the streams. WHERE TO GO

Sepulveda Basin Recreation Area lies north and west of the I-405/ Hwy. 101 interchange in the San Fernando Valley. From 101, take Balboa Boulevard east and immediately turn right. Park at the golf course, and walk a mile south or drive along the same route to the bridge above Sepulveda for a view of the channelized but unpaved river. The Los Angeles River bike path follows the riverbank for 8 miles through the Glendale Narrows, reached in the north at Riverside Drive, Los Feliz and Glendale boulevards, and other street crossings. The Los Angeles River bike path extends for 17 miles from Vernon to the mouth at Long Beach, with access at major streets.

Big Tujunga Creek

Largest Los Angeles River tributary, Big Tujunga churns from the San Gabriel Mountains northeast of the city. Below Big Tujunga Dam it’s the only stream in the Los Angeles River watershed that supports native fishes, including the Santa Ana Sucker and Arroyo Chub. Thoroughly burned in 2009, the basin’s already-unstable geology became a case study in sheet, rill, bank, and landslide erosion. The sheer volume of debris offers a vivid example of an aggrading or rising riverbed: more alluvium is deposited by landslides and tributaries than can be carried downstream by the main channel. Big Tujunga graphically illustrates how a landscape can figuratively melt into its riverbed. Length: 32 miles Average flow: 21 cfs Watershed: 127 square miles

WHERE TO GO

From I-210 (east of I-5) take the Sunland Boulevard exit onto Foothill Boulevard, in 0.2 miles turn left on Oro Vista Way, and go 1.5 miles to Big Tujunga Canyon Road. In 6 miles 242

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Big Tujunga Creek (right) at Clear Creek, with its avalanche of alluvial sediment.

the Wildwood Picnic Area lies along the rocky, silty stream. The road continues with canyon views and two lofty bridge crossings that are a bit of a thrill just to walk across. In winter and spring, before flows approach a trickle, Rainbow Trout are stocked in the creek where it exits the canyon.

Arroyo Seco Creek

The most natural of the Los Angeles River tributaries, upper Arroyo Seco plunges through wilderness and over waterfalls of the San Gabriel Mountains below Rte. 2, then flows by Pasadena. Farther down, the channel is full of silt, aggravated by massive erosion following recent fires. As soon as it exits the canyon, the stream is encased in concrete. Length: 25 miles Average flow: 7 cfs Watershed: 42 square miles

WHERE TO GO

A trail follows along a wild upper reach, making this one of three classic extended streamfront hikes in the Los Angeles region (see also South Fork of the San Gabriel River and Deep Creek in the Mojave basin). The upper trailhead is reached from Rte. 2 west of the Rte. N3 intersection. The trail descends for a long hike to the urban area. In one section it climbs out of the canyon to avoid waterfalls, which are occasionally reached by canyoneers who rappel down with ropes. The lower terminus of the trail is reached by driving 2 miles CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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Arroyo Seco Creek at the start of its short riparian reach below Brookside Park.

north of I-210 on Rte. 2; just past Bay Tree Road park at the trailhead on the right, and walk on pavement to a severely rutted path. This drops 1.5 miles to the stream. The trail extends up and down Arroyo Seco, with washouts. Access is also available off Windsor or Lincoln streets near the Jet Propulsion Laboratory. In winter, Rainbow Trout are stocked at the mouth of the canyon. The channelized lower stream can be seen near the Rose Bowl in Brookside Park; from I-210 take the Seco Street exit west and turn left on Arroyo Boulevard. Downstream, and directly beneath the Hwy. 134 high bridge, a rare quarter-mile of native riparian forest remains with Fremont cottonwoods, willows, box elders, live oaks, alders, and ashes, all seen by trail between the upper and lower channelized sections.

San Gabriel River

The San Gabriel lies east and south of the Los Angeles River, and its headwaters, reaching deep into the mountains, are a river highlight of the Los Angeles region. Several sections are wild and free-flowing through rugged terrain and forests. Like the Los Angeles River, the mid-lower San Gabriel is dammed and channelized. The main stem and its branches are among few remaining habitats of the native Santa Ana Sucker, and the East and West forks are critical as refuges for the native Arroyo Chub and Speckled Dace. Length: 44 miles (64 miles with the West Fork) Average flow: 106 cfs Watershed: 664 square miles

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West Fork San Gabriel River below Cogswell Dam.

WHERE TO GO

One remaining undammed and unchannelized section of the main stem remains below Morris Reservoir as the river emerges from its canyon with rocky cliffs and rapids; from I-210 drive north on Rte. 39 to pullouts that overlook the stream. A bike/pedestrian trail also follows along the lower part of this reach at the edge of a housing development. The 20-mile-long West Fork has a trail nearby in its far upper reaches for several miles below the Hwy. 2 and Mount Wilson Road intersection. At the lower West Fork, a 7-mile reach below Cogswell Reservoir has a single-lane paved road—now closed to cars—for easy and outstanding biking and walking along the water. Though dam-controlled, this scenic reach is extremely wild considering it’s only 45 minutes from Los Angeles. The upper part of the lower West Fork is designated a catch-andrelease Wild Trout fishery with spawning Rainbow Trout, Santa Ana Suckers, and the rare Arroyo Chub, but it also has alien Green Sunfish and Largemouth Bass. The lower 3 miles are stocked. A parking area lies 19 miles north of I-210 on Rte. 39; National Forest parking permit required (this heavily used area is patrolled). Continuing north, Rte. 39 follows along the 5-mile North Fork, which is stocked with trout. The 17-mile East Fork also has road and trail access with heavy use in the deepest canyon in southern California—5,000 feet of vertical rise from the waterfront to Mount San Antonio (Old Baldy). From Rte. 39, turn east on the East Fork Road and go 6 miles to the trailhead. Tempting as a backpacking CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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trip was, I elected to not leave my van here overnight after seeing evidence of break-ins. Five miles up the path, the “Bridge to Nowhere” marks a former road that was washed out by a flood in 1938. Beyond, the trail reaches the Narrows and excellent swimming holes near the Iron Fork confluence. The stream is stocked with Rainbow Trout below Cattle Canyon—a major tributary that also has trail access. Unfortunately trash and graffiti are a plague in this otherwise stellar edge of wildness in the Los Angeles area. The worthy stream is in need of persistent volunteer cleanup efforts. The lower San Gabriel, with concrete channels, freeways, powerlines, inflatable dams temporarily erected during high water, and scattered urban parks, can best be seen from the San Gabriel River Trail, serving bicyclists and walkers for 38 miles from the base of the mountains to the Pacific at Seal Beach.

Santa Ana River

The largest coastal watershed south of the Salinas and the southernmost of the Los Angeles Basin’s rivers, the Santa Ana begins as a clearwater stream through forests and chaparral in the San Bernardino Mountains and then for most of its length passes through San Bernardino, Riverside, Orange, and Santa Ana, finally reaching the ocean at Newport Beach. Length: 97 miles Average flow: 95 cfs Watershed: 1,743 square miles

Santa Ana River at River Trails Park west of Riverside. 246

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At the top of the watershed, the 11,502-foot San Gorgonio Mountain is the highest peak in the entire Coast Range south of British Columbia. Mill Creek drains the south slope of the mountain for 9 miles; the main stem drains the north. Where these join, the Santa Ana enters the urban area. Below its steep, wild headwaters, the river is dammed for hydropower, diverted, and developed. After low-lying housing was flooded in the 1940s, the Army Corps of Engineers began damming and channelizing and in 1989 finished the cement channel that typifies the river in Orange County. On this river that barely trickles in summer, Seven Oaks Dam was finished in 1999 just above the urban area; at a staggering 550 feet, this is the tenth-largest earthfill dam in the nation and the largest built in recent decades. A “dry dam,” it is filled only during floods. The San Andreas Fault crosses virtually at the dam site; to see this bizarre intersection of fault line and gargantuan public works, take Rte. 30 east from I-10 in Redlands. Heavily tapped, the lower river historically dried up except for winter storms, but now has perennial flow from 48 wastewater treatment plants discharging 115 million gallons per day. Lacking such treatment, the Chino sub-basin is reported to have the highest concentration of industrial dairies in the world—300 feedlot-style facilities holding 40 cows per acre. By some accounts the Santa Ana was once the best Southern Steelhead stream, and the fish survived into the 1950s, but the Environmental Protection Agency now lists it among California’s most impaired waterways. In less-developed reaches the Santa Ana Sucker and Santa Ana Speckled Dace survive as endemic species. The Santa Ana River Watershed Alliance and other groups work valiantly to stop pollution and restore natural features; parks and a trail have been proposed for the length of the stream. Also, local water and utility agencies have been leaders in innovation for the reuse of water and for groundwater recharge to minimize dependence on sources outside the Basin. WHERE TO GO

Headwaters can be reached via Hwy. 38 east of Redlands, where pullouts allow fishing access for stocked Rainbow Trout. The outlet of Big Bear Lake, Bear Creek is a Santa Ana tributary and Wild Trout Stream with trail access. Below the confluence, the Santa Ana is diverted for hydropower. Farther down, the Santa Ana River Regional Park through Riverside and the River Trails Park north of Norco offer the best opportunities to walk in riparian open space, though alien giant canes called Arundo are similar to bamboo and have overtaken much of the floodplain. For access, see the parks’ website. The Hidden Valley Wildlife Area includes 25 miles of trails east of Norco; from Hwy. 91 take La Sierra Avenue north 3.5 miles to Arlington Avenue. The Santa Ana Bicycle Trail runs for 30 miles along the river with access at Prado Dam (filled during floods), north of Hwy. 91, and west of Corona (see Santa Ana River Trail website). CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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San Jacinto River

The North Fork San Jacinto tumbles for 12 miles from the towering summit of San Jacinto Peak—at 10,801 feet a regional landmark. With tributary Fuller Mill Creek, the stream rushes through one of the most substantial coniferous belts in southern California, thick with ponderosa pines and incense cedars. The 11-mile South Fork is impounded in Hemet Reservoir—one of the older dams in California, built in 1895—and penetrates a wild canyon to the Rte. 74 crossing and North Fork confluence, where the main stem begins. The Forest Service identified the North Fork as an area of ecologic significance with the southernmost population of endangered Mountain Yellow-legged Frogs, and the stream was designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 2009. Upper Bautista Creek, whose intermittent channel merges with the San Jacinto farther down in Hemet, was also designated Wild and Scenic as habitat for more imperiled species than any other watershed in the San Bernardino National Forest. As the San Jacinto approaches urban flats it becomes intermittent but wraps around the conelike Lakeview Mountains and into Railroad Canyon and Elsinore reservoirs. Water is rarely released from Elsinore, but the Length: 45 miles (55 miles with the North Fork, and 78 miles with the North Fork and Temescal Creek) Average flow: 34 cfs Watershed: 692 square miles (including Temescal Creek)

North Fork San Jacinto River at South Fork along Rte. 74.

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outlet on the northwest side—Temescal Creek (or “Wash”)—continues for 29 miles as a usually dry waterway to the Santa Ana River at Corona. The San Jacinto is distinguished as one of few “rivers” that enters a “creek.” WHERE TO GO

The North Fork and Fuller Mill Creek are crossed by Rte. 243 about 3 miles north of Mount San Jacinto State Park (southeast of I-10 at Banning). Short but scenic woodland walks can be taken along these streams, though access to the water is closed with respect for the rare Mountain Yellow-legged Frog. Eight miles east of Hemet, at the Rte. 74 crossing, the North and South forks join. You can park east of the bridge and walk to the scenic and undeveloped confluence. Just a halfhour drive from the upper river’s cool pine woodlands, the streambanks here grow cholla and prickly pear cacti.

San Mateo Creek

The most natural stream remaining south of the Sespe, San Mateo Creek begins on the western flank of the Santa Ana Mountains in Cleveland National Forest. Centerpiece to the 39,540-acre San Mateo Canyon Wilderness, the creek cuts a 2,500-foot-deep gorge, enters the Pendleton Marine Base, and ends with a 3-mile, usually dry section through the base and San Onofre State Park. Though it rarely spills over its terminal sandbar, the delta deposits at the mouth of the creek account for the extraordinary surf break at Trestles Beach—legendary in the southern California surfing scene and a rare beach with excellent surf that’s removed from traffic and development. The basin is nearly all open space and has virtually no dams or diversions, though groundwater pumping probably affects flows greatly. At the lower creek, the effects of the last ice age can be seen far from where the ice itself advanced; terraces above today’s creek indicate successive glacier-mandated changes in sea level as the stream successively eroded and deposited silt. Today a riparian thicket of willows with some cottonwoods, sycamores, and oaks grows along the river in a broad path near the ocean. With its sharp gradient, southern latitude, and relative lack of disturbance, the basin offers a diverse range of habitats and supports 11 federally threatened or endangered species including the Tidewater Goby, Arroyo Toad, Bell’s Vireo, California Gnatcatcher, and Willow Flycatcher. For years the southernmost Steelhead were believed to spawn in Malibu Creek, but in 1999 one was caught in San Mateo. A subsequent survey by the Department of Fish and Game found a small population. San Diego Trout and other groups have drawn up a restoration plan in hopes of reestablishing a viable run. A toll road was proposed to cross San Mateo Creek and San Onofre State Park and emerge at Trestles Beach. After a lengthy battle, the plan Length: 26 miles Average flow: 6 cfs Watershed: 133 square miles

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San Mateo Creek upstream from Pendleton Marine Base.

was halted with the California Coastal Commission’s rejection of it in 2008. Remaining threats are residential development on national forest inholdings, groundwater withdrawals and pollution from agriculture, and groundwater pumping at the marine base. WHERE TO GO

To see this wildest stream of southern California, take I-15 north from Temecula to the third exit north of the I-215 intersection, and head west on Clinton Keith Road to the Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Preserve—an oak savanna attraction in its own right. Bear right on Tenaja Road (among a confusing maze of roads) and right on the Tenaja Truck Trail (7S04) to the Tenaja Trailhead just inside the national forest. The trail descends 2 miles to the creek, where paths (poison oak!) lead both upstream and down through the Santa Margarita Mountains. The trail stops short of the Pendleton Marine Base, where access is prohibited. The final 3 miles of the creek, along with its post–ice age terraces, riparian thicket, campground, and lagoon, can be reached at the San Onofre State Beach on Hwy. 1 south of San Clemente. Take the San Mateo Campground exit from I-5, park at the exit, walk on a bike trail under the freeway, and go to the mouth and Trestles Beach. The stream can also be seen at the state park campground, 1 mile east, but access to the normally dry channel is barred by the marine base. 250

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Santa Margarita River

The Santa Margarita is another river highlight of far southern California; it passes through a spectacular gorge and supports both endangered species and a sport fishery. Collecting runoff from the Palomar Range, the stream begins at the confluence of 33-mile-long Temecula Creek and Murrieta Creek. A few miles west of I-15 it cuts through Temecula Canyon—the most spectacular gorge in the region, protected as the 4,300-acre Santa Margarita River Ecological Reserve, which is followed by a Nature Conservancy preserve. The river then courses north of Fallbrook and crosses the Pendleton Marine Base to the ocean. The Santa Margarita has been celebrated as the last “free-flowing river” of southern California (Sespe and San Mateo are “creeks”). However, the stream’s upriver extension, Temecula Creek, is dammed in Skinner Reservoir. A hydrologic irony, the Santa Margarita carries virtually no water from its own basin; its source water is completely intercepted and exhausted by groundwater withdrawals in the I-15 urban corridor. Flows seen downstream consist of water taken from the distant Colorado River via the 242-mile-long Colorado River Aqueduct. These enter the Santa Margarita as sewage-plant returns in amounts probably comparable to what would have existed before the groundwater Length: 31 miles (64 miles with Temecula Creek) Average flow: 28 cfs Watershed: 671 square miles

Santa Margarita River at its reserve, west of I-15.

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interception. Nevertheless, the gorge is spectacular, its riparian habitat is irreplaceable, and the river is one of few south of Big Sur that runs— from whatever source—perennially. The river near Fallbrook has a popular fishery but is overrun with alien Redeye Bass. Riparian habitat here is among the region’s finest and supports an impressive 500 plant species, 236 birds, 43 reptiles, and 26 fishes. A large share of the remaining Bell’s Vireos survive here, and the estuary has the strongest population of imperiled Arroyo Chubs. The Fallbrook Public Utility District once planned a large dam in the gorge but was stopped in 1984 by public opposition; the land was ultimately sold to the Nature Conservancy. WHERE TO GO

The Ecological Reserve west of I-15 can be visited only during scheduled events or by special permission with a guide; contact the San Diego State University Field Station Program or Friends of the Santa Margarita River. Less spectacular but more convenient, trails follow the river north of Fallbrook; take I-15 to the Fallbrook exit, go west on S13 (which becomes Mission Road), turn north on Pico (which becomes DeLuz Road), and park at the river. The marine base mileage is closed to the public. Expert kayakers can paddle the gorge when it occasionally runs in winter—reportedly a Class IV+ section with unappealing water quality. This and Piru Creek are among few difficult whitewater reaches south of the Kern (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”).

San Luis Rey River

Intermittent for much of its length to begin with, San Luis Rey is affected by groundwater withdrawals and a network of tributary dams. It receives Mount Palomar runoff, sports one section stocked with trout, and enters the Pacific at Oceanside. Though much of the stream flows only during rainy months, riparian habitat supports one of the larger populations of endangered Willow Flycatchers. The lower 7 miles are channelized with levees, and a bike trail runs alongside. At the upper river, a rich riparian corridor, fed by occasional high water, can be seen at the Rte. 79 crossing. Four miles south from the bridge, the Pacific Crest Trail follows tributary Agua Caliente in a riparian forest upstream from the San Luis Rey. Below Henshaw Reservoir, along Rte. 76, the stream is stocked with trout for 3 miles in the spring. The best and most convenient bet for seeing this river is during the winter rainy season from trails in the 700-acre Wilderness Gardens County Park; from I-15 north of Escondito take Rte. 76 east for 10 miles. Length: 70 miles Average flow: 9 cfs Watershed: 537 square miles

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San Dieguito River

An intermittent, rainy-season river, the San Dieguito begins with runoff from the Vulcan Range. The main stem originates with the confluence of Santa Ysabel Creek (36 miles long) and Santa Maria Creek (18 miles) and meets the Pacific 20 miles north of San Diego. The lower river is heavily developed, while upper reaches are remote and inaccessible through chaparral wildness. The San Dieguito River Park is proposed through the watershed from Vulcan Mountain to the ocean. Length: 23 miles (59 miles with Santa Ysabel Creek) Average flow: 9 cfs Watershed: 238 square miles

WHERE TO GO

For existing trails see the park’s website (www.sdrp.org/). At the mouth in San Dieguito Lagoon, wetlands have been restored. Nearby San Elijo Creek has an ecologic reserve and county park that protect 1,000 acres of wetlands and offer 7 miles of trails between Solana Beach and Encinitas; see the reserve’s website (www.sanelijo.org/ escondido-creek.html). Tributary Santa Ysabel Creek navigates a rugged canyon reached by trail; from Ramona take Rte. 78 north 4 miles to a pullout and trailhead high on the slopes of Clevenger Gorge. The trail switchbacks down to the stream crossing where flows are normally low but after winter rains can be strong.

San Diego River

Beginning west of charming Julian, wild headwaters of the San Diego River pass through grassy mountains and riparian wetlands in an exceptionally beautiful upper canyon with habitat for the threatened California Gnatcatcher and rare reptiles—the Arroyo Toad, pond turtle, Rosy Boa, horned lizard, and Orange-throated Whiptail. Below, a rugged gorge with waterfalls leads to El Capitan Reservoir, which provides water to San Diego. The river’s mouth was shifted to its current location in 1877 by a dam and channel in an effort to keep Mission Bay from filling with silt. The San Diego River Foundation was formed in 2001 to protect the river, and the San Diego River Conservancy seeks to develop a river-long park and trail. Length: 51 miles Average flow: 7 cfs Watershed: 440 square miles

WHERE TO GO

The otherwise inaccessible upper river can be reached by a tantalizing trail to the mouth of Cedar Creek. From Julian take Rte. 78 west 1 mile, turn south on Pine Hills Road for 1.6 miles, and right on Eagle Peak Road for 10 miles to its end at Saddleback. Hike to the right and downhill for 1.5 miles to the river. Springtime green-up CENTRAL AND SOUTH COAST

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San Diego River in its wild canyon west of Julian.

makes this a spectacular route—my favorite river hike in far-southern California. The deep canyon is blanketed with grass and wildflowers in April, while stately live oaks shade the floodplain. Below Cedar Creek, travel along the river is banned by the Helix Water District, though a trail and fire road obviously continue. Cedar Creek carries about the same volume of water as the San Diego, and its 100-foot waterfall, just upstream from the river, is popular enough that I avoid weekends. The lower river is best seen at Mission Trails Regional Park. Northeast of the I-8 and I-15 intersection, take Mission Gorge Road east. A short loop-trail through a lush riparian forest harboring a chatter of bird life follows the river below the historic Old Mission Dam. Near the mouth, the channelized estuary is popular among birders.

Tijuana River

This southernmost river on the West Coast of the United States exists for most of its length in Mexico, passes through Tijuana, then enters the United States near I-5 and seeps through wetlands for 6 miles to its estuary and outlet south of Imperial Beach. Extremely polluted, the stream would be dry except for treated and unfortunately untreated wastewater. A sewage plant built on the U.S. side processes 13 million gallons of raw sewage per day coming from Mexico, but that’s not nearly enough; a second phase of the plant is needed. The cross-border pollution causes frequent closings at Imperial Beach. Length: 120 miles (only 5 miles of the lower river are in the United States) Average flow: 21 cfs

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A 2,531-acre marsh at the mouth is recognized as a “wetland of international importance” by the Ramsar Convention. Administered by San Diego State University, it’s one of five National Estuarine Research Reserves on the West Coast, and by far the most degraded. In sharp contrast, northern tributary Pine Valley Creek flows from the Laguna Mountains and through Cleveland National Forest 20 miles east of El Cajon, and becomes centerpiece to the Pine Creek Wilderness. WHERE TO GO

The river can be seen from Hollister and 19th Streets south of Imperial Beach, but stay out of the water. To see the small but clear waters of Pine Creek, take I-8 east from San Diego to Rte. 79, go south on Japatul Road 7 miles, left on Lyons Valley Road for 2 miles to a trailhead, and walk 2 miles down to the stream.

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Susan River

Beginning in the Caribou Wilderness east of Lassen Peak, this small river runs southeast through a forested canyon to Susanville. The flows that remain undiverted supply the landlocked and evanescent Honey Lake in the Great Basin. Length: 63 miles Average flow: 434 cfs Watershed: 846 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Lower reaches can be seen by walking or mountain biking along a National Recreation Trail—an abandoned railroad grade climbing west from the Susanville Depot through the Susan River Canyon for 16 miles. In Susanville, go west on Rte. 36, turn left on Weatherlow Street, go half a mile, and park at the historic depot. Fall colors are good along the trail in late October. To see the upper river, take Rte. A21 north from Westwood for 15 miles and turn west on Silver Lake Road (National Forest 110). The small stream parallels the road. In spring and early summer, a 7-mile Class II–III kayak run (400 cfs at Susanville gauge) can be done with two portages (Class IV–V rapids in high water). Tubers enjoy the run when flows drop below 100 cfs. Beware of fallen trees. Start at Devil’s Corral; from Susanville go west on Rte. 36 for about 8 miles to the Susan River bridge; in another quarter mile turn right on the old highway and follow it back to the right for half a mile, then follow a dirt road to the right to the Hwy. 36 bridge. Scout or portage at about 2 and 3 miles below the put-in. Take out at BLM’s Hobo Camp picnic area on the river trail, a quarter mile below an old steel bridge. Beware, a Class V rapid lies just below. To reach Hobo, take Main Street in Susanville, go south on South Weatherlow (Richmond Road), in half a mile turn right on South Street, at a T turn right, and follow signs.

Truckee River

Accumulating snowmelt from Echo Summit and the northern Sierra, the Truckee winds through the eastern slope of the Sierra and across mountain meadows. It becomes the principal source of water for Lake Tahoe, which is located in a graben that seismically sank on all sides, resulting in one of the largest high-elevation lakes in the world. It contains more water than all other California lakes and reservoirs combined, and if emptied would require 700 years to refill. Because of the river’s limited ability to flush the lake, even minor pollution is consequential and could turn the famously blue Sierra gem to green. The color change comes from algae, which proliferates on nitrates fed by Length: 166 miles Average flow: 2,037 cfs (804 cfs at Reno) Watershed: 2,330 square miles (without other Pyramid Lake tributaries)

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Truckee River and fly fisherman east of Truckee.

soil erosion and stormwater flushed from disturbed sites and roadcuts. At Tahoe City the lake outlet was raised 6 feet by a dam to control flows for irrigation along the 120-mile Truckee River route from there to Pyramid Lake. Downstream, the river descends the Sierra’s eastern front, passes the town of Truckee, cuts through the final Sierra Nevada canyons as it rushes out to the Great Basin, bisects Reno, and finally angles northeast for 50 miles to landlocked Pyramid Lake—diminished by 80 vertical feet from pre-irrigation levels but still the largest lake in Nevada. One-quarter of the watershed lies in California and the rest in Nevada. The Truckee was shaped by ice-age glaciers that surged into the basin and collected behind an ice dam 600 feet tall at Tahoe’s outlet. Several of these sequentially broke and released massive walls of water that deposited erratic boulders seen today along the river’s path. At the end of the last ice age, Pyramid and Walker lakes, incorporating the lower basins of today’s Truckee and Walker rivers, were part of ancient Lake Lahontan—larger than Lake Erie. As ice melted and water evaporated from this landlocked basin, only remnant lakes remained, but these concentrated unique life forms that evolved in isolation. Today’s Lahontan Cutthroat Trout is one of these. With eight species, the Truckee–Carson–Walker basins of California have the greatest number of native fishes in the West’s entire Great Basin, though no populations are in healthy condition. Lahontan Cutthroat— now threatened—once grew to 17 inches in these three watersheds, and even larger in Pyramid Lake. The endemic Cui-ui Sucker was likewise important to local Indians. However, due to irrigation withdrawals from 260

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the Truckee since 1905, inflows to Pyramid Lake have been reduced, preventing the Lahontans and Cui-ui from migrating, and causing the oncerich ecosystem to wither. Piute Indians’ efforts to reestablish flows and add hatchery fish have been only partly successful. Above Lake Tahoe, isolated populations of Lahontans have been planted in a few streams where competing fish have been eliminated by strategic poisoning. The Truckee and neighboring Carson and Walker basins remain the only habitat of similarly rare but smaller Paiute Cutthroat Trout. WHERE TO GO

Wild headwaters can be reached by driving to Carson Pass on Hwy. 88 and walking north on the Pacific Crest Trail, which climbs over a low pass and leads to the upper basin of meadows and riffling trout waters. In winter, the rolling terrain invites superb crosscountry skiing. In early summer the mosquitoes can be fierce, but the mountain meadows are always beautiful. At the lake outlet in Tahoe City, large Brown and Rainbow trout can often be seen from the bridge (off-limits to fishing). Below Tahoe, campgrounds and anglers’ paths offer trout fishing with easy access. Downstream from Truckee, along I-80 frontage roads, a trophy section with wild and stocked Rainbows and Browns invites fly fishermen; from Hwy. 89 immediately east of downtown Truckee, take Glenshire Drive east to pullouts and paths. Also, take I-80 about 8 miles east of Truckee, exit at Hirschdale, and follow the Hirschdale Road to pullouts. A few miles farther on I-80, take the Floriston exit, turn right, park at the Truckee bridge, and walk upstream. Below Tahoe City and the lake’s outlet, people float the Class I stream for 3 miles to River Ranch resort; rental rafts and inner tubes dominate in a summer mob scene that unfortunately causes damage to riverbanks and wetlands. Rapids pick up with Class II–III water to Truckee (400–1,000 cfs; higher levels create hazards at low bridges). Put in at River Ranch. In heavy snow years, boating can last all summer. Just above Truckee and also downstream from town, rocky drops get steeper. Class III rapids lie below Boca and the mouth of the Little Truckee, and then the Class IV Floriston rapid is located just upstream from that I-80 exit. Below, a hazardous diversion dam washed out in 1997, but several others remain farther down (see Tuthill, “California Creeks”). In center-city Reno, a delightful greenway includes riverfront paths and a whitewater paddling park; exit I-80 on Virginia Avenue, head south to 1st Street, turn right, park, and walk.

Little Truckee River Length: 34 miles Average flow: 238 cfs Watershed: 165 square miles

North of Truckee, and below Webber Lake, this small stream meanders through rapids and meadows, then rushes in a cobble-bottom channel to E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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Little Truckee River in Sierra meadows downstream from Webber Lake.

Stampede Reservoir, followed in 2 miles by Boca Reservoir, and then the river finally enters the main stem 7 miles down from the town of Truckee. Tributary Independence Creek, with glacier-carved Independence Lake, is the only place where the original strain of Lahontan Cutthroat survive in their native waters. From I-80 at Truckee turn north on Rte. 89, and in 10 miles the road parallels the Little Truckee with access and campgrounds. Several miles are stocked with trout; Kokanee Salmon also spawn in autumn. Nearby, the short reach of reservoir tailwater between Stampede Dam and Boca Reservoir is a Wild Trout stream, popular with anglers seeking native Rainbow Trout. To see the upper river, turn west from Rte. 89 onto Jackson Meadows Road, which soon affords an outstanding view of the stream. With a bit of bushwhacking to get in and out, I’ve done a short Class II canoe trip here on spring runoff and enjoyed an uncommon opportunity to paddle through high-elevation mountain meadows and forests.

Eagle Creek

Joining Lake Tahoe at famed Emerald Bay, Eagle Creek is one of the most easily accessible high-Sierra streams north of Sonora Pass. The short but steep basin begins in a series of scenic lakes at a snowbound cirque in Desolation Wilderness. Below Eagle Lake a spectacular waterfall foams down with Lake Tahoe in the background. Another stellar fall sprays over granite Length: 5 miles Average flow: 20 cfs Watershed: 7 square miles

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Eagle Creek and lower falls above Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe.

just below Hwy. 89 at Emerald Bay and is visited by thousands at a big pullout. To see this quintessential Sierra stream, take Hwy. 89 north from South Lake Tahoe for 8 miles and park at a busy lot past the creek crossing. The popular Eagle Lake Trail climbs to the upper falls and eventually connects with the Pacific Crest Trail.

West Fork Carson River

Rising among volcanic peaks, high meadows, and forests east of Carson Pass, the West Fork Carson’s snowmelt meanders through idyllic Hope Valley. Then it cascades through a precipitous gorge in the Carson Range of the eastern Sierra. At sagebrush flats the river enters Nevada and is soon diverted for ranches. Remaining flows meet the East Fork in a pasture north of Dresslerville and continue as the main stem past Carson City to Lahontan Reservoir, wetlands of Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge, and finally Carson Sink (east of Pyramid Lake), where the last trickle evaporates. Through citizen and land conservancy action, the jewel of Hope Valley narrowly escaped damming, subdivision, and high-tension powerlines. Length: 40 miles Average flow: 473 cfs Watershed: 517 square miles

WHERE TO GO

Hope Valley is ideal for easy walks with fishing access from pullouts along Rte. 88 and from a parking lot just west of Hwy. 89, which crosses the river 15 miles south E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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West Fork Carson River gorge below Sorensen’s Resort.

of Lake Tahoe. Below there (just east of the 88/89 intersection) the West Fork gorge can be seen from Forest Service campgrounds and fishing paths near the enticing Sorensen’s Resort and eastward. Fishing is best in Hope Valley, where Rainbow Trout are stocked; larger Brown Trout hide beneath steep banks. A 3-mile Class II canoe run tightly meanders through Hope Valley in spring and early summer—one of few places for easywater paddling at high Sierra elevations. Launch 2 miles south of Hwy. 88 on the Blue Lakes Road; be sure to take out at the parking lot upstream from the Hwy. 89 bridge—unrunnable rapids below!

East Fork Carson River

Popular among anglers and canoeists, the East Fork flows from alpine heights and through forests and granite canyons to the Great Basin desert. It has the longest wild section of river on the east side of the Sierra. A wilderness section is followed by a road-accessible reach and then another wild canyon extending into Nevada. All this is dam- and diversion-free for about 60 miles west of Hwy. 395. In an unusual alignment between two parallel, north–south fault zones, headwaters aim north from the Sonora Pass area and parallel the Sierra crest for 30 miles. This wild reach cuts both volcanic and granite canyons and winds through high-country meadows before dropping into pine forests and along a robust riparian belt where tributaries Wolf and Length: 68 miles (199 miles with the main stem in Nevada) Average flow: 346 cfs Watershed: 402 square miles

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East Fork Carson River below the mouth of Markleeville Creek.

Noble creeks add snowmelt. The river’s tributaries harbor imperiled Paiute Cutthroat; upper reaches are a designated Wild Trout fishery and habitat of threatened Lahontan Cutthroat. Downstream of Silver Creek, Hwy. 4 (east of Ebbett’s Pass) parallels the river in an 8-mile canyon to Hangman’s Bridge, 3 miles south of Markleeville. Below there the river angles 20 roadless miles through mountains that transition from the Jeffrey pine of the eastern Sierra to pinyon pine–sagebrush of the Great Basin. Much of the upper basin qualifies for wilderness designation, and 10 miles from Hangman’s Bridge to Nevada were designated a State Wild and Scenic River in 1989. Because of abandoned mines, the river is listed as impaired for metal pollution. Wetlands at the main stem’s terminus in Stillwater Marsh once covered 100,000 acres but were reduced to 3,100. Legislation in 1991 required that 14,000 acres be restored—a mandate that remains a challenge. WHERE TO GO

The entire upper river is accessible by trail and offers one of the longer river backpacking trips in California; from Sonora Pass on Hwy. 108 take the Pacific Crest Trail north, climb sharply, cross a high pass, and descend into East Fork headwaters. The Pacific Crest Trail then follows the stream for 5 miles, and another trail continues down the wild canyon to Wolf Creek Meadows, which can also be reached by road 5 miles east of Hwy. 4. A lower section along Hwy. 4 can be accessed at turnouts. Stocked Rainbow and Brown Trout are caught along much of the stream. E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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The 8-mile Wolf Creek–Hangman’s Bridge section is popular among experienced whitewater boaters in spring and early summer and has a fast continuous current—one of few reaches in the Sierra with Class II–III whitewater but not larger rapids. Then, from Hangman’s Bridge to a takeout above the deadly Ruhenstroth diversion dam just upstream of Hwy. 395, the East Fork offers the finest 2- or 3-day canoe or easy raft trip in the Sierra with 20 miles of continuous riffles and Class II water and one Class III drop (600–4,000 cfs), runnable in late spring–early summer. Pleasant campsites, views to snowcapped mountains, riparian forests, interesting geology, and a hot spring midway all make this one of the more cherished overnight river trips in the state.

West Walker River

The West Walker emerges from the Hoover Wilderness north of Yosemite National Park, meanders through willow thickets where Leavitt Creek enters, and slants down a steep northbound canyon shared by Hwy. 395. North of the town of Walker the river traverses a classic western ranching valley seen from the highway. Large cottonwoods line parts of the stream, though new stands are hampered by restricted flows and drainage. Along Hwy. 395 at the Nevada state line, waters are shunted into an off-stream reservoir, Topaz Lake. Length: 95 miles (167 miles with main stem in Nevada) Average flow: 699 cfs Watershed: 786 square miles

West Walker River and Jeffrey pine along Hwy. 395. 266

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In Nevada the river meets the East Walker near Yerington, and then the main stem evades Great Basin mountain ranges by looping for 59 miles north, east, and south to its terminus in landlocked Walker Lake, which, like the Carson Sink and Pyramid Lake, is a dwarfed remnant of the giant Lake Lahontan. Walker Lake is receding as a result of upstream diversions. In January 1997 a flood torrent moved massive amounts of rock and eliminated parts of Hwy. 395 in the West Walker Canyon. In response, the river channel was bulldozed from one end of the canyon to the other. Natural flows, smaller floods, and a regrowth of vegetation have since muted the worst of the bulldozers’ moonscaping, but recovery remains a work in progress. WHERE TO GO

To see the headwaters, take a trail from Hwy. 108 near the Leavitt Meadow pack station southward; it eventually merges with the Pacific Crest Trail. Stocked trout can be caught here and also farther downstream where you can scramble to the swift river from the road. Above the pack station, Hwy. 108 continues up the east side of Sonora Pass via Leavitt Creek Canyon, whose elegant narrow waterfall is featured at a pullout. West of Hwy. 395 and alongside the Marine Corps Mountain Warfare Training Center, several miles of meandering river in Pickel Meadow can be canoed without fear of marines’ target practice in early summer (Class II). In 1989 the Trust for Public Land acquired 1,100 acres here for protection. Hwy. 395 through the West Walker Canyon above the town of Walker offers the best roadside view of an eastern Sierra river, with many pullouts and campsites. This reach also has the most challenging paddling among major streams on the Sierra’s east side. I think of the 11-mile stretch of relentless whitewater as California’s longest continuous rapid—Class IV–V at 600 to 2,000 cfs in late spring–early summer. The lower few miles settle into a rollicking Class II–III when the level subsides, and can be reached at several pullouts.

East Walker River

Amid aspen groves, the East Walker begins at the confluence of Virginia and Green creeks, 3 miles south of Bridgeport, and soon flows into Bridgeport Reservoir. Below the dam it runs for 8 dryland miles into Nevada, then north for 40 miles through pinyon-covered mountains and sagebrush-edged ranchland to the West Walker. Wild Lahontan Cutthroat, once legendary here, may be extinct, but the East Walker still supports six of eight native eastern Sierra fishes: Tui Chub, Speckled Dace, Mountain Sucker, Tahoe Sucker, Mountain Whitefish, and Length: 90 miles Average flow: 926 cfs Watershed: 1,201 square miles

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East Walker River’s trout water below Bridgeport Dam.

the small Lahontan Redside—spectacular in breeding colors of scarlet, yellow, and silver. WHERE TO GO

The Virginia Lakes and Green Lakes roads south of Bridgeport lead to trails that ascend these scenic tributaries to high lake basins of colored metamorphic rock, and eventually to the Sierra crest at the Yosemite Park boundary. Joining the East Walker in Bridgeport Reservoir, Robinson Creek drops from Twin Lakes—one of the finest road-accessible examples of glacial lakes formed by a terminal moraine, just southwest of Bridgeport. Tributary Horse Creek cascades from the east flank of Matterhorn Peak and from the outlet of the northernmost glaciers in the Sierra, which are quickly melting. A rigorous hike up Horse Creek and then off-trail leads to a spectacular meadow at the base of Matterhorn and its adjacent walls, spires, and towers of nearly white granite—a stunning view of mountain and stream. All these streams consolidate below Bridgeport Reservoir, where the East Walker is a renowned tailwater trout fishery. Hatchery Rainbow Trout thrive in cold water released from the dam. In good years, it’s one of the revered Brown Trout fisheries in the West, reached from pullouts along Rte. 182 north of Bridgeport and drawing shoulder-to-shoulder anglers. Curtailment of reservoir releases can be troublesome to the fishery, and a massive silt spill from the dam in 1989 killed many trout. 268

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Mill Creek

Originating on high peaks at the Yosemite Park boundary, Mill Creek pummels through Lundy Canyon—a tributary supplying freshwater to landlocked Mono Lake. Five tributary streams provide water to this essential stopover for migratory shorebirds, gulls, and 79 bird species altogether. Beginning in 1941, diversions for the Los Angeles Aqueduct reduced Mono Lake’s supply by 60 percent, and the lake level declined 45 feet, losing half its volume, doubling salinity, and imperiling unique bird life. Fifty years later a precedent-setting court case found that public trust resources must be protected, and that water users cannot destroy a public fishery. In 1994 Los Angeles was ordered to reduce diversions to a degree that will allow the lake’s recovery to an intermediary level that’s expected to be adequate for survival of bird populations. At the southwest end of Mono Lake, 28-mile-long Rush Creek is the lake’s largest tributary, reached via the June Lake Loop off Hwy. 395. The upper creek drains spectacular high country. The lower creek was a famous trout fishery before its desiccation in the 1940s. Restoration efforts are under way. Length: 13 miles Average flow: 29 cfs Watershed: 34 square miles

WHERE TO GO

To reach Mill Creek’s aspen-clad canyon, brilliant in September, take Hwy. 395 north from Lee Vining 7 miles, turn west on Lundy Lake Road, and go to the end. From

Mill Creek with aspens in Lundy Canyon, northwest of Mono Lake. E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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there a trail climbs past cascades and beaver ponds. Upper reaches have Rainbow Trout; below Lundy Reservoir the stream is almost completely diverted, yet springs allow enough water for trout stocking.

Lee Vining Creek

Mono Lake’s second-largest tributary, Lee Vining Creek is easily seen from Hwy. 120 (Tioga Pass Road). Three low dams, including the one forming Saddlebag Reservoir, store water for hydropower generation. On the south side of the Lee Vining Basin, Glacier Creek pours from the flanks of Mount Dana, which is better known for its smoothly sloping pyramidal profile seen from Tuolumne Meadows. The mountain, however, is virtually bisected on its northeast side by the Dana Glacier, whose remains still feed Glacier Creek. Reached by dirt road at 10,100 feet, Saddlebag is the highest caraccessible lake in the state. Above there, the remarkably beautiful alpine stream flows from the cirque recesses of Conness Glacier, beneath the sharp rise of North Peak, and into Greenstone Lake, all seen via a 2-mile trail. I’m hard-pressed to think of a more stunning source of a stream so easily reached. A 2-mile trail to Glacier Creek’s icy source begins at the Tioga Lake overlook just east of Tioga Pass, and offers the easiest access to any of the Sierra’s several hundred remnant (and disappearing) glaciers. An unusual feature of this route, the creek in several pitches disappears beneath steep slopes of rock scree but can be heard roaring underground. Length: 15 miles Average flow: 76 cfs Watershed: 40 square miles

Owens River

Collecting snowmelt from the entire southern half of the Sierra’s east side, the Owens River has a famous introduced trout fishery as well as a unique long canoe route through the desert at the base of the Sierra’s breathtaking escarpment. The Owens is also the principal water supply for Los Angeles and a showcase of volcanism. This is the ninth-longest river in California, though its volume is low. Headwaters are Deadman Creek (12 miles) and Glass Creek (7 miles) at the Sierra crest north of Mammoth, which join and then become the Owens east of Hwy. 395 at Big Springs. Some of the most recent volcanic activity on the continent occurred near here when the Mono and Inyo craters erupted 660 years ago; this is the place to see recent cones, lava deposits, and hot springs. The stream takes shape within the Long Valley Caldera—a 10- by 18-mile depression that occurred 760,000 years ago after a magma explosion 2,400 times the size of the Mount Saint Helens Length: 180 miles (192 miles with Deadman Creek) Average flow: 245 cfs at Pleasant Valley Dam, 390 cfs at Big Pine Watershed: 1,832 square miles

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Owens River with Basin Peak in the background, north of Bishop.

eruption. Pumice and ash buried some places 1,000 feet deep and account for much of the powdery-gray cutbanks along the river downstream (Yellowstone is the only other active resurgent caldera in the United States). During the ice ages the Owens as well as the Mono Lake Basin were hydrologically linked the entire way to Death Valley with a series of sprawling Pleistocene-era lakes and connecting rivers. Within the Long Valley Caldera, the Owens negotiates a steep canyon fed by bubbling groundwater at Big Springs, and then the river is joined by the Mono Lake diversions that arrive through Mono Craters Tunnel. Like a spring creek with glassy water through meadows, the river supports abundant insects and trout. At Crowley Reservoir the Owens is dammed by Los Angeles. All but 90 cfs is diverted into penstocks for hydropower, depleting the 10-mile Owens Gorge below (the entire river was diverted from 1953 to 1991). Water is returned at the outlet of Pleasant Valley Reservoir and riffles past tablelands including Chalk Bluff—an aptly named volcanic escarpment bordering the north bank for several miles. Here north of Bishop the river is dam-free and takes a serpentine course southward within a riparian corridor of willows and occasional cottonwoods providing an oasis for wildlife in an otherwise harsh desert valley. The 60-mile reach is unusual in many respects. With all the land owned by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power, this is one of the longest river reaches in California having no development along its shores, and also one of the longer dam-free sections. With a nearly steady year-round flow of about 390 cfs, the Owens winds with extreme sinuosity; river mileage exceeds two times the straight-line distance. The stream’s E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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path offers a hydrology textbook example of meandering patterns. Below Pleasant Valley Dam the river bends 25 times per mile; below Bishop Creek the stream width increases, but the meander rate remains high. In several places bends reach the 360-degree limit and are being shortcut by breakthrough channels that will soon leave oxbow-bend wetlands on the floodplain—one of few places where this process can be seen in action. Below Pleasant Valley, thick galleries of 15-foot willows arcing from both sides make the river’s course feel like a luge track. Downstream from Hwy. 6, rabbitbrush plains above cutbanks alternate with willow thickets and magnificent mature black willow and cottonwood stands. Below Warm Springs Road, south of Bishop, the stream has the finest black willow forest I’ve ever seen in a desert; sprawling trees with contorted branches protect the shores. Bird diversity is among the best; I’ve counted 50 species in 4 days of canoeing. Beavers—not native but introduced—are active throughout. The Owens supports a robust stocked Brown and Rainbow trout fishery below Pleasant Valley. The Owens Sucker is one of few surviving native fishes (along with the endemic and endangered Owens Tui Chub and the Owens Speckled Dace). Springs near the river remain the only habitat of the endangered Owens Pupfish. This once thrived from Bishop to Owens Lake, but the entire species would probably have gone extinct if renowned fish biologist Phil Pister had not rescued it by carrying the survivors in a mere two buckets of water from a drying slough to an offstream refuge. Cattle graze along much of the Owens; low rates of cottonwood and black willow regermination probably result from heavy grazing and also to controlled releases from Crowley Dam. Attrition of the great trees will no doubt take a toll on native life. This once-great but still free-flowing stream, with stellar views of the Sierra escarpment, ends in Tinemaha Reservoir south of Big Pine. Eight miles farther, the 233-mile Los Angeles Aqueduct conveys nearly all the water to southern California. The lowest 62-mile reach of the river to Owens Lake (just south of Lone Pine) was dried up after the aqueduct was built in 1913, but a 2006 court settlement now requires release of 40 cfs to mitigate the effects of groundwater pumping and restore once-abundant bird life to the river corridor. The 100-square-mile lake was an extraordinary feature in its own right, constantly supplied with water for at least 800,000 years before the Los Angeles diversions. But by the 1920s it had become a dust bowl of caustic alkali that clouded the entire valley up to Bishop and beyond, causing lung ailments to people who breathed it regularly. This problem has been mostly solved by water-based dust control on the Owens Lake bed by Los Angeles. The stream above the lake now exists principally as a linear wetland crowded with tules (bulrushes) and cattails, yet even with minimal water, many bird species returned. Eventual growth of willows might shade out the tules and result in a flowing stream. In 2009 Congress passed National Wild and Scenic River designation for 19 miles of the upper Owens including Big Springs and tributaries 272

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Glass and Deadman creeks. Abell’s Freshwater Ecoregions of North America listed the Owens among California’s top 12 streams for the conservation of biologic diversity. Notable tributaries, in addition to those covered separately here, include Convict Creek, which begins in trail-accessible high country above Convict Lake and continues beneath the towering but highly erodible pyramid of Mount Morrison. Next south, McGee Creek comes from the Sierra’s most colorful metamorphic rocks—psychedelic swirls of russet, red, and gray arched in synclines and anticlines, together a showcase of geology seen from the trail along the stream (another McGee Creek lies east of Bishop). A riparian thicket of cottonwoods lines the lower stream, and farther down the road-accessible canyon has the most charming lineup of Jeffrey pines and aspens rooted along the stream at the base of sagebrush slopes. Farther south, Lone Pine Creek tumbles toward the remnant Owens from the east face of Mount Whitney—highest peak in 49 states. WHERE TO GO

The bubbling waters of Glass Creek can be seen at the Glass Creek Campground; from Mammoth go north 10 miles on Hwy. 395 and turn left. For a better view of the Owens’ headwaters, take 395 about 11 miles north of the Mammoth turnoff, go west on the Obsidian Dome Road to the end, and hike along the creek to an alpine meadow where many springs and seeps mark the Owens’ origin. To reach the anglers’ hot spot of Big Springs on the Owens, go 7 miles north of Mammoth, turn east on Owens River Road, and drive 3 miles to a campground. Fishermen’s paths lead upstream, where the springs can be seen bubbling at the stream’s edge, and downstream through a volcanic canyon for half a mile to private land. The long free-flowing section of the Owens below Pleasant Valley Dam can be reached in many places beginning at the Pleasant Valley Campground; from Bishop go 5 miles west on Hwy. 395, and turn right at the sign. Downstream from there, the Five Bridges Road, Hwy. 6, Line Street, and Warm Springs bridges north and east of Bishop provide access, as does Hwy. 168 east of Big Pine. To see the lower river and its nominal but nourishing flows, take 395 just north of Lone Pine and turn east on Lone Pine Narrow Gauge Road, or take 395 south of Lone Pine for 2 miles and turn east on 136 to the lower Owens. At Big Springs a steady cold flow nourishes a premier sport fishery dominated by introduced Brown Trout but also Rainbow Trout; 7,000–11,000 fish per mile have been counted. Fishing pressure and challenging conditions with glassy water and wary trout make this a place for experts. The river just above Crowley can be reached via the Benton Crossing Road (2S84) east from Hwy. 395. Expect crowds in spring and summer. From Pleasant Valley Dam down, the river supports a popular stocked trout and bass fishery. The Gorge above Pleasant Valley and river below are open to trout fishing all year. E A S T E R N S I E R R A N E VA DA

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The Owens is canoeable from Pleasant Valley Campground to Rte. 168 east of Big Pine—52 miles suited for intermediate paddlers with three Class II drops created by rock diversion dams. The section from Hwy. 6 to East Line Street is popular with tubers. Even though rapids are few, the river is unsuited to beginners because the current constantly pushes boats into banks covered with entangling brush and logs that can be hazardous. This is one of the longer canoe trips possible in California and a rare water route through the desert. It offers breathtaking views to snowcapped peaks and to the arid White and Inyo mountains eastward. I avoid the heat of midsummer; autumn is magnificent with continuing flows. The uppermost put-in is at the downstream end of Pleasant Valley Campground (beware of an unrunnable log jam upstream in the campground). In about 20 miles Hwy. 6 crosses with access, as do two other bridges in the next 15 miles. Rte. 168 is the last easy takeout before Tinemaha Dam, which is posted against visitors by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power.

Hot Creek Length: 31 miles (including Mammoth Creek) Average flow: 120 cfs Watershed: 68 square miles

Unique among California streams, Hot Creek crosses the Long Valley Caldera east of Mammoth Lakes and has extremely hot springs discharging directly into the creekbed.

Hot Creek in front of Laurel Mountain, east of Mammoth Lakes. 274

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The upper extension of this stream is 15-mile-long Mammoth Creek, including the popular Mammoth Lakes and trail access to high-country headwaters. The name is changed to Hot Creek below the Hot Creek Geyser, and the stream trends northeast to the Owens River just above Crowley Reservoir. The hot springs result from snowmelt that infiltrates into porous volcanic rhyolite until it encounters the still-hot rocks heated by the deeper magma of the caldera. The water steams, expands, and jets up to the surface along fissures. The hot springs carry arsenic, boron, fluoride, and sodium bicarbonate from underground geothermal vents, and hydrogen sulfide smelling like rotten eggs bubbles up at the stream’s edge. In 2006 thermal activity intensified with scalding underwater eruptions, and public swimming at the creek and hot springs—a popular local tradition—was closed. WHERE TO GO

Hot Creek will probably remain closed for swimming, but paths along the stream can be used with extreme caution; some land is unstable, and scalding water a hazard. To see this geologic and hydrologic curiosity, go south on Hwy. 395 from the Mammoth turnoff for 2 miles, turn east on Hot Creek Road, and go 5 miles to a parking lot and geologic display. One mile of accessible water here is California’s most popular catch-and-release fishery. (Trout are thought to be caught six times per month!) Yet big 22-inch fish draw skilled anglers. After June, aquatic vegetation puts a damper on fishing. Upstream, a legendary 2-mile private section is available to guests of Hot Creek Ranch.

Rock Creek

This eastern Sierra stream flows from some of the state’s outstanding high peaks and lakes. The creek takes an unusual course out of the mountains; rather than heading directly east, it tracks north in a glaciated trough with the Sierra crest to the west and the barrier of Wheeler Ridge to the east. Beyond Wheeler, the stream elbows southeast to join the Owens River. The Rock Creek canyon provides paramount access to the high Sierra. At 10,300 feet, the trailhead is the highest road-accessible location in the range, and even at lower elevations the valley is one of the best for backcountry skiing. From Mammoth head 18 miles south on Hwy. 395 and turn right at Toms Place on Rock Creek Road. Campgrounds and recreation sites are popular for stocked Rainbow Trout. At the end of the road, a trail up the main stem (principally a chain of lakes) is one of the most leisurely high-elevation paths in the Sierra and attracts walkers by the hundreds. A western fork can be reached from the same trailhead by turning right to Ruby Lake; beyond there, cross-country travel leads to astonishing mountain views Length: 30 miles Average flow: 154 cfs Watershed: 138 square miles

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West Fork Rock Creek and Mount Mills above Ruby Lake.

and the stream’s source in a moonscape of glacial moraines, but travel is rugged over massive rock piles prone to dangerous sliding and steep snowbanks where self-arrest can be challenging in early summer.

Bishop Creek

Bishop Creek draws from spectacular peaks with some of the easiest road access to high-elevation streams and mountains in the Sierra. The North (8 miles), Middle (10 miles), and South forks (12 miles) all start at craggy summits and glaciated terrain with heavy snow cover much of the year. The main stem forms at the South–Middle Fork confluence. Below their high-country reaches, the forks and main stem are dammed and diverted to penstocks and powerhouses by Southern California Edison. Short free-flowing reaches as well as the reservoirs and lakes are stocked with Rainbow Trout and draw many anglers. The native Owens Sucker survives in the main stem. Length: 15 miles Average flow: 129 cfs Watershed: 104 square miles

WHERE TO GO

From downtown Bishop take Rte. 168 west, which leads to three trailheads. First, the South Fork Road dead-ends at the South Fork trailhead, which climbs to Bishop Pass and over to Dusy Basin of the upper Kings watershed. The main road continues to Lake Sabrina (reservoir), where a trail up the Middle Fork 276

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Middle Fork Bishop Creek below Sabrina Reservoir.

reaches alpine country. The final spur becomes North Lake Road, which ends at a trail going up the North Fork of Bishop Creek to Piute Pass, and beyond to Piute Creek in the South Fork San Joaquin Basin. Anglers use campgrounds and pullouts all along the Bishop Creek roads and enjoy big catches after the streams are stocked.

Big Pine Creek

Big Pine is the quintessential stream of the southeastern Sierra. Unlike Bishop Creek, it plunges nearly dam-free (several small dams block lower reaches) from the Sierra’s third-highest peak, North Palisade, and from its glacier, which is the largest in California apart from Mount Shasta. Both the 7-mile North Fork and 5-mile South Fork flow from one of the most spectacular alpine regions in America. As it exits the mountains, the main stem tumbles between two immense lateral glacial moraines. This is the closest major east-side Sierra stream to southern California. To see Big Pine Creek, go to the town of Big Pine on Hwy. 395, turn west on Glacier Lodge Road, and drive along the flanks of the lateral moraines to the end—a popular spot for camping, hiking, and fishing for Rainbow Trout. From here, trails lead up the South and North forks, each with striking views and access to the water. The South Fork Trail soon climbs sharply to the backcountry gem of Brainard Lake and then beyond the maintained trail to Length: 12 miles Average flow: 60 cfs Watershed: 43 square miles

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South Fork Big Pine Creek, with Norman Clyde Peak in the background.

the sublime Finger Lake. Above there, headwaters melt from the Middle Palisade Glacier, rumble under mountainous moraines of broken granite, pool into austere lakes, and pour over cataracts. The North Fork likewise flows from the sizable North Palisades Glacier and a series of lakes including Second Lake with its reflection of the utterly grand Temple Crag, and downward through forested canyons to the South Fork confluence near the road’s end.

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D E SE RTS ORE GON

I D AH O

5 101 395

Redding

99 5

NEV AD A

1

80

20

Sacramento

101

50

80 49

395

Stockton

San Francisco

San Jose

99

1

Fresno

Salinas 5 101

395 99

1

Deserts

Bakersfield

15

Barstow 40 101

5

Santa Barbara San Bernardino

Los Angeles 10

5

N

0 0

San Diego 100 miles 100 kilometers

8

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NE VA DA

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50 miles

0

50 kilometers

osa R

Amarg

AR I Z O N A

395

Mo ja

15

ve

Needles

R 40

ora

do

R

15

Col

San Bernardino 10

Whitewater R

Palm Springs 10

15

10

Palm Canyon Ck Salton Sea

w

R

5

Ne

15

8

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ME XI C O

Colo

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R

8

Amargosa River

The obscure Amargosa is the state’s only reasonably intact river system in the vast Mojave and Sonoran deserts, which comprise 12 percent of the state. It’s also the only California stream that lies fully in the desert area from source to mouth. The channel is usually dry except for one section and for flash floods and very wet years. Responding to the seismically riven landscape of the Great Basin, this watercourse dodges the Amargosa Range and related mountains by trending south, west, and finally north. Its path begins in the aptly named Thirsty Canyon of the Nevada Test Site, flows through the community of Beatty in the Amargosa Desert, and then enters California. It picks up groundwater at Shoshone and Tecopa Hot Springs, passes through the Amargosa Canyon and the Dumont Dunes Natural Area, then bends west and north to Death Valley National Park. The course cuts through colorful claystones deposited by Pleistocene Lake Tecopa, and also past volcanic cliffs. White with alkaline residue, the braided dry channel ends at the ultimate river terminus—the lowest point in America in Death Valley National Park. Here Badwater Basin lies 282 feet below sea level. The river’s course once included 600-foot-deep Lake Manly when ice-age glaciers melted. With willows and cottonwoods, mesquite, alkali flats, and freshwater springs, the river supports the native Amargosa Speckled Dace— threatened by water withdrawals—and rare Amargosa pupfish. Now Length: 183 miles (mostly dry) Average flow: 4 cfs at Tecopa Watershed: 4,176 square miles

Upper Amargosa River (the river is the dry wash in the foreground). DESERTS

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imperiled, pupfishes survived as the glacial lakes shrank, evolving to withstand four times the ocean’s salinity plus 113-degree temperatures. The Amargosa near Tecopa also supports 260 bird species including the endangered Bell’s Vireo, Western Flycatcher, and Yellow-billed Cuckoo. Springflows here are essential to local fish and wildlife, yet the same scarce groundwater is being mined for farming, and proposed pumping by Las Vegas could spell ruin to the river’s unique forms of life, according to Moyle in Inland Fishes of California. In 2009, 26 miles were designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System, though this offers no assurance of groundwater protection. WHERE TO GO

Winter or early spring are the times to see this river; summer temperatures hover well over 100 degrees. At the headwaters, one can drive Rte. 127 in a broad basin along the Amargosa’s braided path from the state line southward to Tecopa, and then on to dry washes at the southeast corner of Death Valley National Park. The lower river course—almost always dry—can be seen from a National Park road leading 16 miles south from Furnace Creek to Badwater. The one, 22-mile perennially flowing section of the Amargosa can be seen south of the community of Shoshone along a 17-mile trail on an abandoned railroad bed. From Baker take Rte. 127 north 48 miles, go right on Old Spanish Trail Highway for 5 miles through Tecopa, turn right on Furnace Creek Road, drive 1.2 miles, veer right on China Ranch Road, and go 1.5 miles to the China Ranch store and the trailhead.

Mojave River

The Mojave begins on the northeast slope of the San Bernardino Mountains where the West Branch (4 miles) and East Fork of the West Branch (5 miles) join in Silverwood Reservoir. Deep Creek (24 miles long) enters just above the Mojave River Forks Dam, built for flood control but rarely impounding water. Then, as it exits the mountains and enters the Mojave Desert, the river dries up in braided desert channels. The mostly dry watercourse heads north through a long reach of desert sprawl in Hesperia and Victorville, and then to Barstow. Off-highway vehicles (OHVs) are more plentiful than water in the dusty channel. The riverbed continues with sand flats south of I-15 and on through Afton Canyon, where bedrock retards percolation and forces minor flows to the surface. Below Afton the sandy expanse of the Mojave River Wash lies in the East Mojave National Scenic Area and enters the dry bed of Soda Lake, which once overflowed via Salt Creek into the Amargosa River and Death Valley. In the wet winter of 2004–2005 the Mojave filled both Soda Lake Length: 132 miles (Silverwood Reservoir–Soda Lake) Average flow: 6 cfs (mostly dry) Watershed: 2,121 square miles

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East Fork of West Branch Mojave River above Silverwood Reservoir.

and Silver Lake, just to the north, with several feet of water. The Mojave Tui Chub is the only native fish of this unusual river, once inhabiting much of the system but now endangered in several isolated ponds. WHERE TO GO

To see water in the Mojave River, go to the headwaters on the northern flanks of the San Bernardino Mountains; from I-15 north of San Bernardino take Rte. 138 east to Silverwood Reservoir. A jeep road ascends the West Fork near the reservoir’s southern end, and a rough OHV road climbs the East Fork of the West Fork for several miles. Clear water runs here in springtime through chaparral, sycamores, and ponderosa pines that are unusually large for southern California. The route is good for walking or mountain biking but has dusty, noisy OHV use on weekends. Below Silverwood, the Mojave River Forks Reservoir is filled only during exceptional floods. Just above the dam, the stream twists through an elegant Fremont cottonwood grove that’s inundated when the lower dam fills, but thus far the stately trees have survived. To reach this unusual and verdant site, take Rte. 173 west from Silverwood for 8 miles to a crossing of the Pacific Crest Trail and walk southeast half a mile. The largest tributary, Deep Creek, joins just above the Mojave River Forks Dam. The Pacific Crest Trail parallels much of this clear stream’s roadless path north and west from the mountains with swimming holes and scenery; hike upstream on the Pacific Crest Trail from Rte. 173. Though I haven’t yet had the chance to do it, the hike down Deep Creek from its headwaters is considered one of the classic long streamfront DESERTS

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backpacking trips in southern California. The upper end of the Deep Creek trail lies to the east of Lake Arrowhead Reservoir. Far downriver, Afton Canyon can be reached by taking I-15 east of Barstow for 36 miles; exit on Afton Canyon Road, and drive south 6 miles to a trail that parallels railroad tracks through the canyon. Surface water is sometimes found here.

Whitewater River

Inaptly named, the Whitewater is mostly dry, though its lively and clear headwaters drop from the east face of towering San Gorgonio Mountain. The stream disappears into the ground as it enters the I-10 corridor, but its flood channel continues southeastward through the sprawl of Palm Springs and Indio and finally reaches the north shore of the landlocked Salton Sea. Isolated pools along the Whitewater’s course still harbor the rare Desert Pupfish. The river’s upper 27 miles have small perennial flows. A tributary, the San Gorgonio River, runs off the southeast side of San Gorgonio Peak and dries up as it reaches the valley floor west of Palm Springs. Length: 88 miles (source–Salton Sea) Average flow: 4 cfs (mostly dry) Watershed: 1,500 square miles

New River

Flowing into the southern end of the Salton Sea, this minor basin carried the raging volume of the Colorado River when the Alamo Canal notoriously failed in 1904. The full flow of the Colorado diversion burst through a breached dike and down irrigation ditches to the Salton Sink for 2 years, re-creating the Salton Sea before repairs were possible. The New River is now loaded with agricultural and municipal wastewater, largely from Mexico but also from fields in California, on its way to the Salton Sea. It has the ignominious reputation as one of the most polluted streams in America. Industrialization at Mexicali in the wake of the North American Free Trade Agreement—and the resulting “rush to the bottom” of environmental regulation—vastly increased industrial waste. A hundred contaminants, including hazardous heavy metals and pesticides, have been detected at the border. Stream standards for diseasecarrying microbes causing tuberculosis, polio, cholera, typhoid, and hepatitis are exceeded by hundreds of times. In the 1990s the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency spent $50 million on a sewage plant for Mexican waste, but it proved far too inadequate. Pollution has killed all fish in the Salton Sea except tilapia, and avian cholera is epidemic in the lake, which continues to attract unwary migratory birds. (Ironically, the lake has the highest bird diversity in southern California.) The 52-mile Length: 81 miles (15 miles in Mexico, 66 miles in California) Average flow: 38 cfs Watershed: 1,000 square miles

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Alamo River similarly empties at the southern end of the Salton Sea and is little more than a toxic ditch choked with vegetation in its 695-squaremile basin.

Cottonwood Creek

Cottonwood Creek is the largest stream draining the White Mountains at the California–Nevada border. This wild freshet drops east from 13,040-foot-high Mount Barcroft, just south of White Mountain Peak, passes through scattered bristlecone pines, and supports Paiute Cutthroat Trout. The Whites are nearly as high as the Sierra Nevada, but because of the formidable rain shadow cast by that range, the Whites lack heavy snow, and so the streams are small. From its source to a diversion dam west of Oasis, Cottonwood was designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 2009 with recognition of it as a rare natural stream in the expansive Great Basin region. The lower creek is reached via the dirt Canyon Road just south of Oasis near the intersection of Rtes. 168 and 266. Beyond a gate, a path continues upstream. The upper creek can be reached by taking Rte. 168 east from Big Pine to the Bristlecone Pine Road; turn north for 10 miles to the Schulman Grove, continue on a rough fourwheel-drive road to Big Prospector Meadow, and go right to North Fork Crooked Creek, where you can begin your hike to the South Fork Cottonwood. The trail apparently goes some distance downstream (take a map). Bristlecone Pine Road—best walked—also continues to the creek’s normally dry headwaters beneath Mount Bancroft. Length: 25 miles Average flow: 9 cfs Watershed: 53 square miles

Palm Canyon Creek

An unexpected little jewel of the desert, Palm Canyon and its tributary creeks, Murray (15 miles) and Andreas (8 miles), riffle from the eastern San Jacinto Range with springflows charged by snowmelt, and they nourish the largest palm oasis in America. The three streams are part of “Indian Canyons,” which also include Chino and Tahquitz creeks nearby. These tiny streams curve whimsically through groves of California fan palms that feel absolutely tropical as warm winter breezes rustle the leaves overhead and the trees shade the waterways within the parched desert. Eight miles of this one-of-a-kind stream were designated in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 2009. This is tribal land of the Agua Caliente band of Cahuilla Indians, who maintain the canyons for hiking and tourist use. Farther down, the creek is diverted and dried up in the Palm Springs area before it reaches the Whitewater River wash. Length: 28 miles Average flow: 1 cfs in lower reaches (mostly dry, but headwaters flow perennially) Watershed: 129 square miles

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Andreas Creek and California fan palms, Palm Canyons.

From Palm Springs go south on Indian Avenue, which turns into Palm Canyon Drive, and continue to the tribe’s entrance gate (fees). Excellent easy hiking trails, busy on weekends, ascend Andreas, Murray, and Palm canyons. Watch for rattlesnakes.

Colorado River

Scribing the boundary between California and Arizona for 240 miles, the Colorado eases languidly between seven dams before it enters Mexico. Counting substantial out-of-state mileage from its Rocky Mountain source, this is the longest river touching California, 1,450 miles in all, but virtually all its water comes from elsewhere. Despite its formidable size when entering the state, the river is entirely dried up by diversions before reaching its end in Mexico, going from California’s third-largest river as it enters from Arizona, to nothing before it reaches the Gulf of California. The river forms the state border downstream from Bullhead City, Arizona. Below the I-40 crossing it enters the 15-mile-long Topock Gorge and curves past spectacular spires called the Needles. This reach ends in Havasu Reservoir behind Parker Dam, followed by Headgate Rock and Palo Verde dams. Another reach flows below Blythe and into the Cibola National Wildlife Refuge before encountering Imperial and Laguna dams, just upstream from Mexico. Length: 240 miles in California (1,450 miles total) Average flow: 11,995 cfs at Parker Dam, 2,228 cfs at Yuma Watershed: 242,000 square miles, nearly all outside California

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Colorado River and the Needles, south of I-40.

The lower Colorado was once an enormous meandering stream supporting unusual native fishes, desert wetlands, and extensive riparian habitat that Aldo Leopold in 1922 called a “milk-and-honey wilderness.” That habitat has been transformed into reservoirs, levee-lined shores, agricultural fields, and ultimately, in Mexico, a dry channel. All native fishes are locally extinct or very rare, while 44 introduced fishes including Green Sunfish and Striped Bass now prohibit native species from making a comeback. Due to the altered ecosystem, successful reintroductions of the natives are unlikely, though one species, the Flannelmouth Sucker, has been replanted. About half of California’s urban population depends to some degree on waters of the Colorado, which are diverted into the Colorado River Aqueduct at Parker Dam, or into the All-American Canal at Imperial Dam. This water irrigates a million acres in the Imperial Valley–Salton Sea area. Under a decades-old multistate compact, California must reduce its withdrawal from the Colorado by 800,000 acre-feet per year, a formidable challenge. Worse, the State Water Resources Department reported that the Colorado Basin’s record drought conditions of 2000–2007 are likely to get far more severe with global warming, intensifying aridity, and uncertainty regarding water supplies. All this makes even the reduced allowance of water unlikely from this overstressed artery of the West. WHERE TO GO

In winter, Havasu National Wildlife Refuge is a place for bird watching, fishing, and access to the undammed river in mountains below Topock, just DESERTS

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south of I-40. South of Blythe, the Cibola National Wildlife Refuge is also reportedly good for birdwatching and catching catfish, sunfish, and bass. Many boat access areas have been built along the river in both free-flowing and dammed sections. Below Bullhead City and above Lake Havasu, Striped Bass can be caught in spring, and stocked trout can be caught in the cooler waters just below Needles in winter. Popular reaches for canoeing, especially in winter, include a 1- or 2-day float below Needles. This 30-mile reach to Lake Havasu City includes reservoir flatwater below the I-40 crossing at Topock and crosses the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge. A 3-day trip can also be taken below Blythe, where the river winds in great bends to the Cibola National Wildlife Refuge.

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A P P ENDIC ES

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LONG DA M -F REE RIVE R R EAC H E S ( 50 MILE S O R M O R E )

Second numbers indicate dam-free mileage of the river plus dam-free mileage of the receiving river downstream. American, North Fork, source to Clementine Reservoir, 61 miles Carson, East Fork, source to Ruhenstroth Dam, 55 miles Eel, Van Arnsdale Dam to ocean, 159 miles Middle Fork, source to mouth, 70 miles; 191 with Eel South Fork, source to mouth, 107 miles; 147 with Eel Feather, Middle Fork, source of headwaters to Oroville Reservoir, 111 miles Kern North Fork, source to Fairview Dam, 62 miles South Fork, source to Isabella Reservoir, 88 miles Kings Middle Fork and main stem to Pine Flat Reservoir, 56 miles South Fork and main stem to Pine Flat Reservoir, 65 miles Klamath, Iron Gate Dam to ocean, 193 miles Mattole, source to ocean, 72 miles Merced Snelling to mouth, 48 miles; 108 with San Joaquin to the delta Source to McClure Reservoir, 63 miles Navarro with Rancheria Creek, source to ocean, 65 miles Owens, Pleasant Valley Dam to Tinemaha Reservoir, 60 miles Sacramento River Keswick Dam to Sacramento (when Red Bluff Dam opens), 240 miles Red Bluff Dam to Sacramento, 183 miles Salinas, Santa Margarita Dam to mouth, 158 miles 292

APPENDICES

Salmon and South Fork Salmon, source to mouth, 59 miles; 125 with the Klamath Smith, with South Fork, source to ocean, 59 miles Stanislaus, Goodwin Dam to mouth, 60 miles; 77 with San Joaquin to the delta Trinity Lewiston Dam to mouth, 113 miles; 209 with the Klamath South Fork, source to mouth, 87 miles; 161 with Trinity and Klamath Tuolumne, LaGrange Dam to mouth, 55 miles; 81 with the San Joaquin to the delta Van Duzen, source to mouth, 74 miles; 98 with Eel

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NATI ON A L W ILD A N D S C ENI C RIV E RS

Mileages are from Wild and Scenic River documents and vary slightly from other figures. Amargosa River, Tecopa Hot Springs and Dumont Dunes area, 26 miles American River, Nimbus Dam to mouth, 23 miles North Fork, The Cedars to Iowa Hill Bridge, 38 miles Bautista Creek, in San Bernardino National Forest, 10 miles Big Sur River, North and South forks confluence to Ventana Wilderness boundary, 7 miles Cottonwood Creek, 22 miles below source Eel River, Van Arnsdale Dam to Pacific Ocean, 157 miles Black Butte River, above Middle Fork Eel, 23 miles Cold Creek, above Black Butte River, 5 miles Middle Fork, Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness to mouth, 54 miles North Fork, Old Gilman Ranch to mouth, 34 miles South Fork, confluence of Section Four Creek to mouth, 101 miles Feather River, Middle Fork, above Oroville Reservoir, 78 miles Kern River, North Fork, source to Tulare-Kern County boundary, 79 miles South Fork, source to south boundary Dome Land Wilderness, 73 miles Kings River, Middle-South forks confluence to Converse Creek, 6 miles Middle Fork, source to mouth, 35 miles South Fork, source to mouth, 41 miles Klamath River, Iron Gate Dam to Pacific Ocean, 188 miles Merced River, source to Halls Gulch below Briceburg, 52 miles Lyell Fork, source to mouth, 6 miles Merced Peak Fork, source to mouth, 5 miles 294

APPENDICES

Red Peak Fork, source to mouth, 4 miles South Fork, source to mouth, 43 miles Triple Peak Fork, source to mouth, 4 miles Owens River, Big Springs to private land, 1 mile Deadman Creek, above Owens River, about 9 miles Glass Creek, above Owens River, about 9 miles Palm Canyon Creek, San Bernardino National Forest, 8 miles Piru Creek, below Pyramid Dam, 7 miles Salmon River, source to mouth, 21 miles North Fork, Marble Mountain Wilderness to mouth, 25 miles South Fork, Cecilville to mouth, 17 miles Wooley Creek, Marble Mountain Wilderness to mouth, 8 miles San Jacinto River, North Fork, source downstream for 10 miles Fuller Mill Creek, above North Fork San Jacinto River, 4 miles Scott River, Shackleford Creek to mouth, 24 miles Sespe Creek, in two sections below Rte. 33, 32 miles Sisquoc River, source to Los Padres National Forest boundary, 33 miles Smith River, source at Middle-South fork confluence to mouth, 16 miles, plus tributaries totaling 23 miles: Rowdy Creek, Dominie Creek, Savoy Creek, Little Mill Creek, Mill Creek West Branch, Mill Creek East Fork, Bummer Lake Creek Smith River, Middle Fork, source to mouth, 32 miles, plus tributaries totaling 70 miles: Siskiyou Fork, South Siskiyou Fork, Packsaddle Creek, Griffin Creek, Knopki Creek, Patrick Creek, Patrick Creek East Fork, Patrick Creek West Fork, Kelly Creek, Shelly Creek, Monkey Creek, Little Jones Creek, Hardscrabble Creek, Myrtle Creek Smith River, South Fork, source to mouth, 38 miles, plus tributaries totaling 141 miles: Prescott Fork, Craigs Creek, Coon Creek, Rock Creek, Gordon Creek, Canthook Creek, Hurdygurdy Creek, Goose Creek, Goose Creek East Fork, Jones Creek, Muzzleloader Creek, Blackhawk Creek, Buck Creek, Quartz Creek, Eightmile Creek, Williams Creek, Harrington Creek Smith River, North Fork, Oregon border to mouth, 14 miles, plus 28 miles of tributaries: Diamond Creek, Diamond Creek North Fork, Bear Creek, High Plateau Creek, Still Creek, Peridotite Creek, Stony Creek

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Trinity River, Lewiston Dam to mouth, 111 miles New River (New Fork), above mouth, 20 miles North Fork, above mouth, 14 miles South Fork, Hwy. 36 bridge to mouth, 55 miles Tuolumne River, source to Don Pedro Reservoir, 83 miles Van Duzen River, Dinsmore Bridge to mouth, 48 miles

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C ALI FORNIA STATE W ILD A N D S C EN IC R IVE RS

Albion River, Deadman Gulch to ocean American River, Nimbus Dam to mouth North Fork, source to Iowa Hill Bridge Cache Creek, Cache Creek Dam to Camp Haswell North Fork, Hwy. 20 to mouth Carson River, East Fork, Hangman’s Bridge to Nevada Deer Creek (Sacramento tributary), protected but not in the Scenic Rivers System Eel River, Van Arsdale Dam to ocean Middle Fork, Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness to mouth North Fork, Old Gilman Ranch to mouth South Fork, Branscomb to mouth Gualala River, North and South forks confluence to ocean Klamath River, Iron Gate Dam to ocean Leavitt Creek (West Walker tributary), Leavitt Falls to mouth McCloud River, Algoma to Huckleberry Creek, McCloud Dam to McCloud Bridge Squaw Valley Creek (McCloud tributary), Cabin Creek to mouth Mill Creek (Sacramento tributary), protected but not in the Scenic Rivers System New River (Trinity tributary), Salmon Trinity Primitive Area to mouth Salmon River and South Fork, Cecilville Bridge to mouth North Fork, Marble Mountain Wilderness to mouth Wooley Creek, Marble Mountain Wilderness to mouth Scott River, Shackleford Creek (west of Fort Jones) to mouth Smith River, South-Middle Fork confluence to ocean Smith River, Middle Fork, North Fork, South Fork, and many tributaries APPENDICES

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South Yuba River, Lang Crossing to Kentucky Bridge (below Bridgeport) Trinity River, Lewiston Dam to mouth North Fork, Salmon Trinity Primitive Area to mouth South Fork, Rte. 36 bridge to mouth Van Duzen River, Dinsmore Bridge to mouth West Walker River, source to Rock Creek (near Walker)

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C ALI FORNIA’ S FIN E ST NATU RA L RIVE RS

These rivers were identified in The Great Rivers of the West survey by the Western Rivers Conservancy. Drawing on a variety of documents as well as interviews with biologists, this survey sought to identify the most outstanding natural rivers of each western state, with a focus on biology but also with consideration of recreation, and ranked them into A, B, and C categories. For the full report, see the website www.westernrivers.org.

A Rivers Carson River, East Fork Clavey River Deer Creek (Sacramento Basin) Feather River, Middle Fork Kern River, North Fork Kern River, South Fork Kings River and Middle and South Forks Salmon River and Wooley Creek Sespe Creek Smith River and Middle, North, South, and Siskiyou forks and tributaries

B Rivers American River, North Fork Big Sur River and North and South forks Eel, Middle Fork and main stem Hat Creek Kaweah River, Marble, Middle, and South forks Klamath River Mattole River McCloud River Merced River and South Fork Merced Mill Creek (Sacramento Basin) San Joaquin River and North, Middle, and South forks Tuolumne River

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C Rivers Amargosa River American River, South Fork Cache Creek Cosumnes River Mokelumne River, upper North Fork Redwood Creek (Humboldt Co.) Rock Creek (Owens Basin) Sacramento River, upper and middle as two separate reaches Santa Margarita River Shasta River Sisquoc River Stanislaus River, North Fork Trinity River and North and South forks and New River Yuba River, North and South

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EXC EPTION A L H IK IN G A LO N G C ALI FORNIA RIV ERS

Up to five stars based on scenery, wildness, and extent that the trail follows the river closely, not including walks that simply go to the river at one or several points. ★★★★★ Tuolumne below Tuolumne Meadows, astonishing at high water ★★★★ Evolution Creek, South Fork San Joaquin up to headwaters, supreme high country Kern, North Fork, Lake South America down to Kern Lake, stark, high, grand Kings, Middle Fork, Tehipite Valley up to Muir Pass, epic Merced, Yosemite Valley and above, America’s greatest falls and granite walls Shadow Creek, glacial outlets beneath Mount Ritter to the Middle Fork San Joaquin Stanislaus, North Fork above and below Sourgrass Bridge, splendid rapids and conifers ★★★ Burney Creek, McArthur Burney Falls State Park, short but exquisite Kern, North Fork, Johnsondale Bridge upstream 4 miles, great in spring and autumn Kings, South Fork, Zumwalt Meadows up to Woods Creek, spectacular canyon McCloud, waterfalls of the McCloud area, also Nature Conservancy Preserve, beautiful San Joaquin, South Fork, Florence Lake up to Goddard Canyon, wild APPENDICES

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Stanislaus, South Fork above Pinecrest Reservoir, no trail, outstanding swimming holes Tuolumne, Dana Fork, above Tuolumne Meadows; wild, open headwaters, off-trail ★★ Andreas Creek, Palm Canyon upstream, best palm oasis Big Pine Creek, South and North forks upstream to glaciers and Palisade Peaks, glaciers Bishop Creek, North, Middle, and South forks, highest trailheads Bubbs Creek, South Fork Kings up to headwaters Canyon Creek, end of road to Canyon Creek Lakes, best of the Trinity Alps Eagle Creek, Rte. 89 (Lake Tahoe) up to Eagle Lake, waterfalls Horse Creek, Twin Lakes to Matterhorn Glacier (off-trail), rigorous, breathtaking at top Kings, Garnet Dike up to Converse Creek, finest of foothills rivers Merced, South Fork, mouth up to Hite Cove, foothills, flowers in spring Murray Creek, Palm Canyon Creek upstream, palm oasis San Gabriel, West Fork up to Cogswell Dam, paved bike trail, green and wild South Yuba, Washington Crossing to Hwy. 49, superb swimming Trinity, North Fork and Grizzly Creek, end of road to Grizzly Lake, oldgrowth forest, stunning waterfall, lake, and glacier at the end ★ American, Sacramento city, best urban paved bike trail American, South Fork, Greenwood Creek to Folsom Reservoir, foothills Big Sur, Andrew Molera State Park to the Pacific, finest river trail to the sea Deep Creek, mouth at Mojave River up to Deep Creek Hot Spring Pyramid Creek, Hwy. 50 up to Horsetail Falls Redwood Creek (Marin County), rare chance to walk along a stream from source to ocean Rock Creek, end of road up to Gem Lakes, lakes and peaks San Diego, Eagle Point Road down to Cedar Creek, expansive grassy canyon San Gabriel, East Fork, end of road up to the narrows, wild San Lorenzo, Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, best of the Central Coast 302

APPENDICES

Sespe Creek below Rte. 33, harsh but wild Silver Fork American, Silver Fork Road up to Caples Creek, scenic forest stream Stanislaus, Caswell State Park, short, but best of the Central Valley Trinity, South Fork, Hwy. 36 upstream, one of few trails along a northern river Tuolumne, Lyell Fork, above Tuolumne Meadows, glaciated canyon, meadows

APPENDICES

303

Best Fishing Rivers Trout

American River Central Valley rivers, below trout or salmon hatcheries Delta East Walker River, below Bridgeport Reservoir Fall River Feather River Kings River, Garnet Dike to Pine Flat Reservoir Klamath River Mad River Mattole River Middle Fork Feather River, Sloat–Oroville Reservoir Middle Fork Smith River Owens River, Big Springs to Crowley Reservoir Pit River, below lower dams Redwood Creek Sacramento River, at Anderson Sacramento River, at Isleton Sacramento River, at Colusa Sacramento River, Redding to Anderson Smith River Trinity River

Steelhead

White Sturgeon

X

Chinook Salmon

Striped Bass

X X

X

X

X X X

X

X X X

X

X

X X X X X X X X X X X

X

Note: Warm-water fish, including Largemouth Bass, Smallmouth Bass, and catfish, are best found in the lower reaches of Central Valley rivers and in reservoirs. Source: Adapted from Tom Stienstra’s California Fishing (2004).

304

APPENDICES

WI LD TROU T WAT ERS

Designated by the State Fish and Game Commission, not including lakes. American River, North Fork Bear Creek (Santa Ana Basin) Clavey River Cottonwood Creek (Owens Basin) Deep Creek (Mojave Basin) Fall River Golden Trout Creek (North Fork Kern Basin) Hat Creek Hot Creek (Owens Basin) Kern River, North Fork Kern River, South Fork Kings River Klamath River, upper Lavezzola Creek (North Yuba Basin) McCloud River, lower Merced River Nelson Creek (Middle Fork Feather Basin) Owens River, lower Piru Creek, upper Rubicon River Sacramento River, upper San Gabriel River, East Fork San Joaquin River, Middle Fork Stanislaus River, Middle Fork Stony Creek, upper Truckee River Yellow Creek (North Fork Feather Basin)

APPENDICES

305

C ALI F O RNIA’S F IN EST C ANOE ING, K AYA K IN G , A ND R A F TING

Reaches may have one rapid of greater difficulty than what is noted, and all runs can become more difficult depending on water level; see text and other sources. See the beginning of “River Profiles” for class descriptions, and see “A Word of Warning” at the opening of this book.

Class I–II (experience needed or advised) American, Nimbus Dam to mouth American, South Fork, Coloma to Camp Lotus Carson, West Fork, Hope Valley Eel, Alderpoint to ocean Eel, South Fork, Richardson Grove to mouth Feather, Oroville to mouth Merced, Stoneman Bridge to Sentinel Beach (Yosemite Valley) Mokelumne, Electra Powerhouse to Middle Bar Navarro, Hendy Woods to mouth Owens, Pleasant Valley Campground to Hwy. 168 Sacramento, Redding to Colusa Smith, South Fork confluence to below Hwy. 1 Stanislaus, Knights Ferry to mouth Trinity, Hawkins Bar to mouth Trinity, Lewiston Dam to North Fork Truckee, Tahoe City to River Ranch Tuolumne, LaGrange to Modesto Yuba, Hwy. 20 to mouth

Class III (difficult) American, South Fork, Chili Bar to Coloma; Camp Lotus to Folsom Reservoir Cache Creek, North Fork to Rumsey Carson, East Fork, Wolf Creek to Ruhenstroth Dam Eel, Dos Rios to Alderpoint Kings, Garnet Dike to Pine Flat Reservoir 306

APPENDICES

Klamath, Iron Gate Dam to Reynolds Creek (above Ishi Pishi Falls) Smith, Middle Fork, Gasquet to Oregon Hole Gorge entrance Smith, South Fork, Big Flat to canyon entrance Trinity, confluence with North Fork to Cedar Flat Trinity, Tangle Creek to Lewiston Reservoir Truckee, River Ranch to Floriston

Class IV–V (experts only; runs may require one or more portages) American, North Fork, Giant Gap and Chamberlain Falls sections Deer Creek, Hwy. 32 to mouth Eel, Middle Fork, Black Butte to mouth Feather, Middle Fork, Nelson Point to Milsap Bar Kern, North Fork, Forks of the Kern to Johnsondale Bridge; Fairview Dam to Powerhouse #3 Kings, Yucca Flat to Garnet Dike Klamath, Salmon River confluence to Orleans (the Ikes) McCloud, Lower Falls to McCloud Reservoir; Ah-di-na Campground to Shasta Reservoir Merced, El Portal to Bagby Mill Creek, Black Rock to Hwy. 99 Sacramento, Box Canyon Dam to Shasta Reservoir Salmon, Nordheimer to Brannons Bar Smith, Middle Fork, Oregon Hole Gorge Smith, North Fork, Wimer Road to mouth Smith, South Fork, lower canyon Stanislaus, North Fork, below Sourgrass Bridge to Calaveras Big Trees State Park Trinity, Cedar Flat to Hawkins Bar (Burnt Ranch) Tuolumne, Meral’s Pool to Wards Ferry; Cherry Creek to Lumsden Walker, West, Hwy. 395 canyon Yuba, North, Goodyears Bar to Carlton Campground

Tidal Estuaries Albion Big Noyo

APPENDICES

307

EX TEND E D RIV ER TRIP S I N C ALIF OR N IA

Listed in order by length.

Sacramento 238 miles, Redding to Sacramento, portage around Red Bluff Diversion Dam if its gates are not opened, Class I–II, all year. The longest dam-free Class I–II canoe trip in the West; the upper portion to Red Bluff is excellent; levees and farmland below.

Klamath 193 miles, Iron Gate Dam to Pacific, portage around Ishi Pishi Falls, Class II–IV, spring, summer, fall. A great river trip, and the longest essentially undeveloped river that can be run on the West Coast south of Canada.

Merced to San Joaquin 108 miles, Snelling to Hwy. 120 bridge over the San Joaquin west of Manteca, Class I with small amount of II, with diversion dam portage, trash, and pollution in lower Merced and San Joaquin, spring and early autumn. The Merced alone is 48 miles.

South Fork Eel to main stem Eel 102 miles, Smithe Redwoods to Cock Robin Island near Pacific (62 miles on the South Fork and 40 on the main stem), Class I, II, one III, with two to three short portages at low bridges and a low dam in summer on the South Fork. Flows are usually adequate in springtime; afternoon winds are likely on the lower Eel. This is the longest Class II canoe trip on a mostly natural river in California; a superb trip through redwoods much of the way.

Feather to Sacramento 94 miles, Oroville to American River confluence in Sacramento, Class I–II, with one III, all year. The Feather alone is 74 miles and, along with the Sacramento from Redding to Red Bluff, is the best canoe trip in the Central Valley. The Sacramento reach is less desirable, with levees and muddy water. 308

APPENDICES

Russian 90 miles, Ukiah to Hwy. 1 at Jenner, Class I, II, one III, and about five low dams to portage, spring, summer, headwinds on lower river, and some development.

Eel 88 miles, Alder Point to Cock Robin Island, Class I–II, and mostly I, with afternoon wind; can be combined with 76 miles of Class III–IV on the Middle Fork and main stem upstream for 164 miles. In spring, the main Eel offers California’s only canoeing on a very large and mostly undeveloped river.

Tuolumne to San Joaquin 81 miles, La Grange to Hwy. 120 bridge over the San Joaquin west of Manteca, Class I and small amount of II, spring and early summer, also October and November. The Tuolumne alone is 55 miles. Lower river and San Joaquin have pollution, development, and trash.

Middle Fork Eel to Eel 76 miles, Black Butte River to Dos Rios (30 miles Class III–IV on the Middle Fork) followed by 46 miles of Class II–III on the main stem to Alder Point. An excellent trip in spring; one portage on the Middle Fork. By switching from raft to canoe, the trip can continue on the Eel for 88 additional (windy) miles, or a total of 164.

Stanislaus to San Joaquin 69 miles, Knights Ferry to Hwy. 120 bridge over the San Joaquin west of Manteca, Class I with small amount of II, all year. The Stanislaus alone is 52 miles; the San Joaquin reach is polluted and less desirable.

Trinity 62 miles, Lewiston Dam to Cedar Flat above Burnt Ranch Gorge, Class II–III with some IV at higher flows. An excellent trip for rafters in early summer or experienced canoeists in the low water of mid- and late summer.

Owens 52 miles, Pleasant Valley Dam to Rte. 168, Class II, spring, summer, fall. An unusual desert canoe trip entirely through undeveloped country with constant views of the Sierra Nevada, excellent birding, and riparian trees.

Trinity 48 miles, Hawkins Bar to Klamath River, Class I, II, plus one or two IIIs, spring, summer, fall. A choice canoe trip; avoid camping on Hoopa Tribal land of the lower river.

Mattole 39 miles, Class I, II, with two II+, Ettersburg to Petrolia bridge, winter to spring. An excellent trip through an enchanting Coast Range valley, but with private land and limited camping. APPENDICES

309

Navarro River with Rancheria Creek 35 miles, Mountain View Road to the ocean after spring rains, Class II+ for 13 miles of Rancheria and then Class I+ for 22 miles of the Navarro. Most of this trip is through roadless, heavily forested mountains. The Navarro portion is California’s premier overnight canoe trip for Class I+ canoeists, and one of few trips the whole way to an ocean beach.

East Fork Carson 27 miles, Cave Rock to Diversion Dam west of Hwy. 395, Class II–III. The upper 7 miles are Class III; the lower 20 are continuous II with one III. A wilderness trip for rafters or experienced canoeists; the state’s top 3-day wilderness run for canoeists (most begin at Hangman’s Bridge for a 20-mile trip).

310

APPENDICES

OR GANIZ ATIO N S IN VO LVED W I TH R I VER CO N SERVATIO N

This is a partial list; for more groups, search by river on the Internet or contact Friends of the River. Friends of the River is the principal river conservation group working statewide: 1418 20th St., Sacramento, Calif., 95811; (916) 4423155; www.friendsoftheriver.org. American River Conservancy Arroyo Seco Foundation California Sportfishing Alliance California Trout California Wilderness Coalition Foothill Conservancy (Mokelumne River) Friends of the Eel River Friends of the Inyo (Owens River) Friends of Los Angeles River Friends of the River Friends of the San Dieguito River Valley Friends of the Santa Clara River Hydropower Reform Coalition Klamath Riverkeeper Los Angeles and San Gabriel Rivers Watershed Council Mattole Restoration Council McCloud River Watershed Council Pit River Watershed Alliance Protect American River Canyons APPENDICES

311

Restore Hetch Hetchy Russian Riverkeeper Sacramento River Preservation Trust San Diego River Coalition San Joaquin River Parkway and Conservation Trust San Joaquin River Stewardship Program Save the American River Association Smith River Alliance South Yuba River Citizens League Toulumne River Preservation Trust Trout Unlimited Truckee Watershed Council Tuleyome (Cache Creek)

312

APPENDICES

S OURCE S

Abell, Robin A., et al. 2000. Freshwater Ecoregions of North America: A Conservation Assessment. Washington, D.C.: Island Press. Alt, David, and Donald W. Hyndman. 2000. Roadside Geology of Northern and Central California. Missoula, Mont.: Mountain Press. California Climate Change Center, California Energy Commission. 2006. Our Changing Climate: Assessing the Risks to California. A Summary Report from the California Climate Change Center. Sacramento. Available at http:// meteora.ucsd.edu/cap/pdffiles/CA_climate_Scenarios.pdf. California Department of Boating and Waterways. About 1990. A Boating Trail Guide to the Sacramento River from Redding to Red Bluff. Brochure. Available at www.dbw.ca.gov/Pubs/Redding/index.htm. California Department of Water Resources. 2005. California Water Plan Update. Sacramento. Available at www.waterplan.water.ca.gov/previous/ cwpu2005/index.cfm. California Resources Agency and Department of Fish and Game. 2003. Atlas of the Biodiversity of California. Sacramento. California State Lands Commission. 1993. California Rivers—A Public Trust Report: Executive Summary. Sacramento. Carle, David. 2004. Introduction to Water in California. Berkeley: University of California Press. Cassady, Jim, and Fryar Calhoun. 1995. California Whitewater: A Guide to the Rivers. Berkeley: North Fork Press. Doll, Pancho. 2008. Day Trips with a Splash: Swimming Holes of California. San Diego: Running Water Publications. Dunning, Harrison. Fall 2008. “Confronting the Environmental Legacy of Irrigated Agriculture in the West: The Case of the Central Valley Project.” Environmental Law, Northwestern School of Law of Lewis and Clark College 23: 943–969. Eel River Reporter. 2003. “The Eel River Watershed: An Overview.” Friends of the Eel River. Environmental Water Caucus. 2010. California Water Solutions Now. Sacramento: contact Planning and Conservation League. Available at www. pcl.org. Evans, Steve. 2002. River Gems: A Guide to Free-Flowing Rivers in California. Booklet. Sacramento: Friends of the River.

SOURCES

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Ferris, Jim, Michael Lynch, and Sheila Toner. 2007. American River Canyon Hikes: Practical Guides to Hikes in the Canyons of the North and Middle Forks American River. Auburn, Calif.: Auburn State Recreation Area Canyon Keepers. Gleick, Peter, Heather Cooley, and Juliet Christian-Smith. 2008. More with Less: Agricultural Water Conservation and Efficiency in California. Oakland: Pacific Institute. Green, Dorothy. 2007. Managing Water: Avoiding Crisis in California. Berkeley: University of California Press. Griggs, Gary. 2010. Introduction to California’s Beaches and Coast. Berkeley: University of California Press. Gumprecht, Blake. 1999. The Los Angeles River: Its Life, Death, and Possible Rebirth. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press. Harden, Deborah R. 1997. California Geology. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Prentice-Hall. Holbek, Lars, and Chuck Stanley. 1984. A Guide to the Best Whitewater in the State of California. Sacramento: Friends of the River Books. House, Freeman. 1999. Totem Salmon. Boston: Beacon Press. (About the Mattole River.) Hundley, Norris Jr. 1992. The Great Thirst: Californians and Water, 1770s– 1990s. Berkeley: University of California Press. Information Center for the Environment, University of California at Davis. 1997. California Rivers Assessment (online). Davis. Available at http:// endeavor.des.ucdavis.edu/newcara/. Killam, Gayle. 2005. The Clean Water Act Owner’s Manual. 2nd ed. Available from River Network. Available at www.rivernetwork.org. Martin, Charles. 1974. Sierra Whitewater. Sunnyvale: Fiddleneck Press. Mayer, Jim. 1989. “The Dying River,” Sacramento Bee, five-part series, 17–21 September. McGinnis, Samuel. 2006. Field Guide to Freshwater Fishes of California. Berkeley: University of California Press. Meral, Gerald H. Fall 2008. “Beyond and Beneath O’Shaughnessy Dam: Options to Restore Hetch Hetchy Valley and Replace Water and Energy Supplies.” Golden Gate University Environmental Law Review. Monsma, Bradley John. 2004. The Sespe Wild. Reno: University of Nevada Press. Mont, Jeffrey F. 1995. California Rivers and Streams. Berkeley: University of California Press. Most, Stephen. 2006. River of Renewal: Myth & History in the Klamath Basin. Portland: Oregon Historical Society Press. Moyle, Peter B. 1993. Fish: An Enthusiast’s Guide. Berkeley: University of California Press. ———. 2002. Inland Fishes of California. Berkeley: University of California Press. Moyle, Peter B., and Paul J. Randall. 1996. “Biotic Integrity of Watersheds.” In Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project: Final Report to Congress. Vol. II, p. 979.

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Moyle, Peter B., Joshua A. Israel, and Sabra E. Purdy. 2008. Salmon, Steelhead, and Trout in California: Status of an Emblematic Fauna. Davis: University of California Center for Watershed Sciences. Moyle, Peter B., Michael P. Marchetti, Jean Baldrige, and Thomas L. Taylor. July 1998. “Fish Health and Diversity: Justifying Flows for a California Stream,” Fisheries (Bethesda) 23: 6–15. (Article about Putah Creek restoration.) Pacific Institute. 2005. California Water 2030: An Efficient Future. Oakland: Pacific Institute. Palmer, Tim. 1980. Stanislaus: The Struggle for a River. Berkeley: University of California Press. ———. 1984. Endangered Rivers and the Conservation Movement. Berkeley: University of California Press. ———. 1987. The Kings River: A Report on Its Qualities and Its Future. Fresno: Committee to Save the Kings River. ———. 1993. The Wild and Scenic Rivers of America. Washington, D.C.: Island Press. ———. 2004. Lifelines: The Case for River Conservation. Lanham, Md.: Rowman and Littlefield. (A primer on river conservation.) Palmer, Tim, and Ann Vileisis. 1993. The South Yuba: A Wild and Scenic River Report. Nevada City: South Yuba River Citizens League. Pike, Charlie. 2001. Paddling Northern California. Guilford, Conn.: Falcon Guides. Planning and Conservation League. 2004. Investment Strategy for California Water. Sacramento. Available at www.pcl.org/projects/investmentstrategy. html. Protect American River Canyons. 1989. The American River: North, Middle, & South Forks. Auburn: Protect American River Canyons. Public Policy Institute of California. July 2008. Research Brief Navigating the Delta: Comparing Futures, Choosing Options. San Francisco: Public Policy Institute of California. Rose, Gene. 1992. San Joaquin: A River Betrayed. Fresno: Linrose Publisher. Schwind, Dick. 1974. West Coast River Touring. Beaverton, Oreg.: Touchstone Press. Sierra Nevada Alliance. 2006. State of Sierra Waters. South Lake Tahoe: Sierra Nevada Alliance. Simon, Ted. 1994. The River Stops Here. New York: Random House. (Subject is Dos Rios Dam.) South Yuba River Citizens League. 2010. A 21st-Century Assessment of the Yuba River Watershed. Nevada City: South Yuba River Citizens League. Stienstra, Tom. 2004. Foghorn Outdoors: California Fishing: The Complete Guide to Fishing on Lakes, Streams, Rivers, and Coasts. 7th ed. Emeryville, Calif.: Avalon Travel Publishing. Trust for Public Land. 2001. The State of California Rivers. San Francisco: Trust for Public Land. Tuthill, Bill. California Creeks. Available at www.cacreeks.com. (Website for whitewater boating.) SOURCES

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U.S. Department of the Interior, Heritage Conservation and Recreation Service. 1980. Draft Environmental Impact Statement, Proposed Designation of Five California Rivers in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. San Francisco. U.S. Geological Survey. May 2008. Technical Analysis of In-Valley Drainage Management Strategies for the Western San Joaquin Valley. Washington, D.C. Van Kirk, Robert, and Seth W. Naman. 2008. “Relative Effects of Climate and Water Use on Base-Flow Trends in the Lower Klamath Basin,” Journal of the American Water Resources Association 44:1035–1052. Western Rivers Conservancy. 2008. The Great Rivers of the West. Unpublished report by Tim Palmer and Ann Vileisis. Portland. Available at www.westernrivers.org. Yoshiyama, Ronald M., and Peter B. Moyle. 2010. Historical Review of Eel River Anadromous Salmonids, with Emphasis on Chinook Salmon, Coho Salmon and Steelhead. Davis: Center for Watershed Sciences, University of California, under contract with California Trout. Yoshiyama, Ronald M., Frank W. Fisher, and Peter B. Moyle. 1998. “Historical Abundance and Decline of Chinook Salmon in the Central Valley Region of California,” North American Journal of Fisheries Management 18: 487–521.

316

SOURCES

A DDITIONA L CA P TIO N S

PAGE i PAGE vi

McCloud River, Middle Falls. Tuolumne River in Yosemite National Park.

PAGES xviii–1

Tuolumne River at Glen Aulin Falls.

PAGES 66–67

Kern River upstream from Bakersfield.

PAGES 290–291

South Fork Stanislaus River before flooding by New Melones

Dam.

ADDITIONAL CAPTIONS

317

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I NDEX

aggrading riverbeds, 241 Agua Caliente, 252 Alameda Creek, 32, 127 Alamo River, 285 Albion River, 117–118, 117 (photo), 297, 307 alder, white, 48, 48 (fig.) alien species, 21, 23, 33–37, 69, 104, 133, 175, 247, 287 Amargosa River, 25, 281–282, 281 (photo), 294, 300 American Dipper, 63, 63 (fig.) American Mink, 65, 65 (fig.) American River, 160–162, 160 (photo), 294, 297, 304, 306 Middle Fork, 164–165 North Fork, 29 (photo), 162–164, 162 (photo), 292, 294, 297, 299, 305, 307 Silver Fork, 168–169, 168 (photo), 302, 303 South Fork, 4 (photo), 36, 165–167, 166 (photo), 300, 302, 306 American Shad, 21–22, 110, 123, 135 American Whitewater, 149 amphibians, 59, 59 (figs.) Andreas Creek, 285 (photo), 302 Antelope Creek, 132 Aptos Creek, 226 Aquatic Diversity Management Areas, 41 Armenian blackberry, 49, 49 (fig.) Arroyo Chub, 240–245, 252 Arroyo Hondo, 127 Arroyo Seco Creek, 243–244, 244 (photo) Arroyo Seco River, 229–230 Arroyo Toad, 228, 235, 238–239, 250, 253 Auburn Dam, 163 Austin Creek, 122 Bald Eagle, 108, 136, 169 Baldface Creek, 76

bass, 21, 34, 123, 133, 136, 149, 178, 190, 193, 195 Largemouth Bass, 37, 58, 200, 245, 304 Redeye Bass, 37, 175, 232, 252 Smallmouth Bass, 22, 58, 58 (fig.), 93, 156, 163, 170, 207, 218, 304 Striped Bass, 21–23, 57, 57 (fig.), 126, 133, 135–136, 149, 153, 161, 182, 287–288, 304 Battle Creek, 131–134 Bautista Creek, 248, 294 beach erosion, 31, 235–236 Bear Creek (Cache Creek basin), 170 Bear Creek (Fall River River basin), 141 Bear Creek (Santa Ana River basin), 247, 305 Bear Creek (Trinity River basin), 95 Bear River (Feather River basin), 35, 159 Bear River (North Fork Mokelumne River basin), 178 Beaver, North American, 64, 64 (fig.), 228 Beegum Creek, 132 Bell Creek, 191 Bell’s Vireo, 234, 239, 250, 252, 282 Belted Kingfisher, 62, 62 (fig.) bicycle routes, 194, 226, 245–246, 252, 259 North Coast, 77, 91, 95, 116, 122, 126–128 Sacramento River basin, 147–148, 155, 160 Big Arroyo, 218 Big Chico Creek, 147–148 Big Pine Creek North Fork, 277–278, 302 South Fork, 277–278, 278 (photo), 302 Big River, 29, 41, 116–117, 116 (photo), 307 Big Sur River, 231–232, 231 (photo), 294, 299, 302 Big Sycamore Canyon, 241 Big Tujunga Creek, 242–243, 243 (photo) birds, 60–63, 60–63 (figs.)

319

Bishop Creek, 276–277 Middle Fork, 276–277, 277 (photo), 302 North Fork, 276, 302 South Fork, 276, 302 Black Butte River, 109, 294 black cottonwood, 45–46, 45 (fig.) Black Phoebe, 62, 62 (fig.) black walnut, California, 45, 45 (fig.) black willow, 47, 47 (fig.) blackberry, Armenian, 49, 49 (fig.) Blackfish, Sacramento, 21 Blue Creek, 83–84 Blue-eyed Darner, 51 (fig.) Bluff Creek, 83 Bogus Creek, 83 box elder, 44, 44 (fig.) Brook Trout, 56, 56 (fig.), 196, 202 Brown Trout, 56, 56 (fig.), 138, 143, 152, 156, 163, 196, 202, 261, 264, 268, 272–273, 275 Brush Creek (North Fork Kern River basin), 218 Bubbs Creek, 209, 302 Bull Creek, 104 Bull Trout, 24, 138 Bullfrog, 59 Burney Creek, 144, 144 (photo), 301 Butano Creek, 225 Butte Creek, 41, 132 Cache Creek, 169–170, 169 (photo), 297, 306 North Fork, 170, 297, 300 Calaveras River, 199 Calhoun, Fryar, 68 California black walnut, 45, 45 (fig.) California Gnatcatcher, 250, 253 California Newt, 59, 59 (fig.) California Roach, 23, 192 California sycamore, 45, 45 (fig.) California Trout, 105 Californian Speckled Dun, 51 (fig.) canoeing, 306–310. See also specific rivers precautions, xvii, 68–69 Canyon Creek (North Yuba River basin), 156 Canyon Creek (South Yuba River basin), 157 Canyon Creek (Trinity River basin), 94–95, 95 (photo), 302 Canyon Wren, 63, 63 (fig.) Caples Creek, 168 Carmel River, 41, 230 carp, 30, 33, 37, 64, 182 320

INDEX

Carson River East Fork, 28, 264–266, 265 (photo), 292, 297, 299, 306, 308 West Fork, 41, 260, 263–264, 264 (photo), 306 Cartridge Creek, 208 Cassady, Jim, 68 catfish, 21, 149, 182, 189, 195, 200, 201 Channel Catfish, 53, 53 (fig.) Cedar Creek (San Diego River basin), 253 Central Valley Project Improvement Act, 93 Channel Catfish, 53, 53 (fig.) channelization, 31–32, 99, 228, 241, 243– 244, 267 Cherry Creek, 189 Chilnualna Creek, 197 Chino Creek, 285 Chinook Salmon, 21, 27, 54, 54 (fig.), 74–75, 78, 81–94, 97, 103–104, 108, 111, 114, 126, 128, 131–135, 145, 147, 149, 153–154, 160, 175–176, 188, 193, 198 Chowchilla River, 199 chubs, 24 Arroyo Chub, 240–245, 252 Tui Chub, 267, 272 Chum Salmon, 110, 126 clams, 49–50, 50 (fig.) Clavey River, 25, 40, 191–192, 192 (photo), 299, 305 Clear Creek (Klamath River basin), 83–84 Clear Creek (Sacramento River basin), 132 Cliff Swallow, 63, 63 (fig.) climate, 13–15 climate change, 15, 38–39, 87 Coffee Creek, 93 Coho Salmon, 24–25, 54–55, 54 (fig.), 74, 77, 81–82, 87–89, 93, 99, 101, 103, 110, 114, 118–125, 224–226 Cold Creek (Cache Creek basin), 169 Cold Creek (Middle Fork Feather River basin), 109, 294 Colorado Pikeminnow, 24, 58 Colorado River, 23, 38, 251, 286–288, 287 (photo) Common Merganser, 61, 61 (fig.) conservation, 40–42. See also specific rivers organizations, 43, 311–312 Convict Creek 273 Cosumnes River, 175–176, 175 (photo), 300 Middle Fork, 175 North Fork, 175 Cottaneva Creek, 19 (photo)

Cottonwood Creek (Great Basin), 285, 294 Cottonwood Creek (Owens River basin), 305 Cottonwood Creek (Sacramento River basin), 132 cottonwoods, 19–20, 219 black cottonwood, 45–46, 45 (fig.) Fremont cottonwood, 46, 46 (fig.) Coyote Creek, 128 crayfish, 140 Signal Crayfish, 50, 50 (fig.) Cuckoo, Yellow-billed, 136, 220, 282 Cui-ui Sucker, 260 Cutthroat Trout, 21–22, 74–75, 81, 125 Cuyama River, 233 Dace, Speckled, 21, 133, 242, 244, 247, 267, 281 dam removal, 41–42, 83–84, 102, 134, 154, 232, 235, 240 dam-free reaches, 73, 97, 108, 175, 205, 237, 251, 292–293 dams, 29–31, 131, 165, 183–184, 187, 247–248. See also specific rivers numbers of, 30–31 threats of, 31, 138, 176 opposition to, 83, 102, 108, 153, 166, 179–180, 188, 193, 196, 199, 202, 206, 224, 230, 252 damselfly, 52, 52 (fig.) Deadman Creek (Owens River basin), 270, 295 Deadman Creek (Stanislaus River basin), 184 Deep Creek, 243, 302, 305 Deer Creek, 25, 146–147, 146 (photo), 297, 299, 307 Delta Smelt, 21, 23, 57, 57 (fig.) Dillon Creek, 84 Dinkey Creek, 210 Dipper, American, 63, 63 (fig.) diversions, 32–36, 226, 230, 234, 261, 269–272, 282, 287 North Coast, 83, 87–88, 93, 103, 105, 114, 117 Sacramento River basin, 150, 164 San Joaquin River basin, 187–188, 198, 210 dogwood, red osier, 44, 44 (fig.) Downie River, 155 dragonflies, 51 Blue-eyed Darner, 51 (fig.) Dry Creek, 122 Dry Meadow Creek, 218

ducks Wood Duck, 60, 60 (fig.) Mallard, 60, 60 (fig.) Darner, Blue-eyed, 51 (fig.) Eagle, Bald, 108, 136, 169 Eagle Creek (Truckee River basin), 262–263, 263 (photo), 302 Eel River, 9, 18 (photo), 103–107, 106 (photo), 292, 294–297, 299, 306, 308 Middle Fork, 107–109, 108 (photo), 292, 294, 297, 299, 307–308 North Fork, 294, 297 South Fork, 18, 25, 109–111, 110 (photo), 292, 294, 297, 308 Elk Creek, 89 Elk River, 103 endangered/imperiled species, 81, 127, 250. See also specific rivers and species estuarine rivers, 75, 80, 82, 84, 99, 102, 113, 116–119, 254 Eulachon, 21, 82, 99 Evolution Creek, 204 (photo), 301 exotic species. See alien species Fall River (Middle Fork Feather River basin), 152 Fall River (Sacramento River basin), 25, 141–142, 142 (photo), 304–305 Feather River, 42, 148–149, 148 (photo), 304 Little North Fork, 152 Middle Fork, 151–152, 151 (photo), 292, 294, 299, 304, 306, 308 North Fork, 149–151, 150 (photo) North Fork, east branch, 150–151 fish, 20–25, 52–58, 133, 145–146, 192 alien, numbers of, 20 endangered, 24, 41. See also specific species endemic, 21, 24. See also specific rivers and species fishing, 304. See also specific rivers and species Flannelmouth Sucker, 287 Fletcher Creek, 194 floods/floodplains, 17–18, 36–37, 41, 104, 126, 161 flow of rivers. See also specific streams; hydrology methods of caculating, 70 websites about, 68 flycatchers Western Flycatcher, 282 Willow Flycatcher, 250, 252 Foothill Conservancy, 176 Foothill Yellow-legged Frog, 59, 59 (fig.) INDEX

321

Fordyce Creek, 158, 159 (photo) Fort Goff Creek, 84 Fremont cottonwood, 46, 46 (fig.) Freshwater Ecoregions of North America, 93, 145, 147, 175, 192, 217, 273 Fresno River, 199 Friends of the Eel River, 105 Friends of the River, 40, 42–43, 68, 163, 180 frogs, 59, 61, 64–65 Bullfrog, 59 Foothill Yellow-legged Frog, 59, 59 (fig.) red-legged frogs, 26, 59, 224, 230, 232, 229 yellow-legged frogs, 23, 26, 59, 162, 232, 248, 249 Fuller Mill Creek, 248–249, 295 Garcia River, 119–120 Gazos Creek 225 geology, 9–13. See also specific rivers Glaciers, 90, 95, 190, 193, 202, 260, 268, 277 Glass Creek, 270, 295 global warming. See climate change Gnatcatcher, California, 250, 253 gold mining, 11–12, 28. See also mining Golden Trout, 21, 23–25, 56, 56 (fig.), 202, 217–218 Golden Trout Creek (North Fork Kern River basin), 305 Great Blue Heron, 26, 61, 61 (fig.), 117 Green Sturgeon, 22, 53, 82, 110, 133 Grizzly Creek (Trinity River basin), 90, 95–96, 96 (photo), 302 groundwater, 10, 34 Guadalupe River, 28, 127–128 Gualala River, 120–121, 120 (photo), 297 Hardhead, 23, 133, 156, 192 Hat Creek, 142–143, 143 (photo), 299, 305 hatcheries, 22–24, 54–56, 176, 178, 188, 191, 193, 226, 261, 268 North Coast, 90, 93–94, 102, 122–123, 128 Sacramento River basin, 135, 149, 160–161 Heron, Great Blue, 26, 61, 61 (fig.), 117 Highland Creek, 183 hiking. See also specific rivers best riverfront hiking, 301–303 Hitch, 172 Holbec, Lars, 68 Home Creek, 98–99, 99 (photo) Horse Creek (Sisquoc River basin), 232 Horse Creek (Walker River basin), 268, 302 Hot Creek, 274–275, 274 (photo), 305 322

INDEX

hydroelectric power, 42, 83–84, 121, 139– 140, 149, 159, 185, 210. See also specific rivers hydrology, 16–18 Independence Creek, 25 Indian Creek (Klamath River basin), 83 Indian tribes, 83, 85, 93, 261 insects, 50–52, 51–52 (figs.) introduced species. See alien species Kaweah River, 210–211, 211 (photo) East Fork, 211 Marble Fork, 212, 212 (photo), 299 Middle Fork, 212–213, 213 (photo), 299 North Fork, 211 South Fork, 213, 299 kayaking, 306–310. See also specific rivers precautions when, xvii, 68–69 Kennedy Creek (Stanislaus River basin), 184 Kern River, 23, 25, 34, 40, 66–67 (photo), 215–216, 215 (photo) North Fork (Upper Kern River), 216–219, 217 (photo), 292, 294, 299, 301, 305, 307 South Fork, 219–220, 220 (photo), 292, 294, 299, 305 Kingfisher, Belted, 62, 62 (fig.) Kings River, xi (photo), 25, 34, 40, 205–208, 206 (photo), 294, 299, 302, 304–307 Middle Fork, 208–209, 208 (photo), 292, 294, 299, 301 North Fork, 210 South Fork, 209–210, 209 (photo), 292, 294, 299, 301 Klamath River, 23, 25, 29, 41–42, 42 (photo), 80–86, 81 (photo), 82 (photo), 292, 294, 297, 299, 304–305, 308 Lagunitas Creek, 25, 41, 124, 124 (photo) Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, 15, 23–25, 259, 264, 266 Lahontan Redside, 267 Lake Lahontan, 259–266 lampreys, 21, 104, 110, 127, 133, 170, 238 land trust activity, 41, 79, 84, 87, 116, 134, 166, 199, 236 Largemouth Bass, 37, 58, 200, 245, 304 Largescale Sucker, 58 Lassen Creek, 25, 140 Lavezzola Creek, 305 Leavitt Creek, 267, 297 Lee Vining Creek, 270

levees, 31–32, 99, 131, 134, 161 Lewis Creek, 194 Little Last Chance Creek, 151 Little Kern River, 217–218 Little Sur River, 231 Little Truckee River, 261–262, 262 (photo) logging, 28, 89, 97, 103–104, 113–115 Lone Pine Creek (Kaweah River basin), 212 Lone Pine Creek (Owens River basin), 273 Los Angeles River, 32, 241–242, 241 (photo) Lost River Sucker, 81 Mad River, 101–102 (photo), 304 Malibu Creek, 41, 237, 240–241, 240 (photo) Mallard, 60, 60 (fig.) mammals, 64–65, 64–65 (figs.) Mammoth Creek, 275 Matilija Creek, 235 Mattole River, 113–114, 113 (photo), 292, 299, 304, 308 mayflies, 50–51 Californian Speckled Dun, 51 (fig.) McCloud River, 137–139, 137 (photo), 297, 299, 301, 305, 307 McGee Creek, 273 Merced River, 28, 31, 41, 193–195, 194 (photo), 294, 299, 301, 305, 308 Merced Peak Fork, 294 Red Peak Fork, 294 South Fork, 196–197, 197 (photo), 294, 299, 302 Triple Peak Fork, 194, 292, 294 Merganser, Common, 61, 61 (fig.) Middle River, 198 Mill Creek (Mono Lake basin), 269–270, 269 (photo) Mill Creek (Sacramento River basin), 144– 146, 145 (photo), 297, 299, 307 Mill Creek (Santa Ana River basin), 247 Mill Creek (Smith River basin), 28, 78–79, 79 (photo) mining, 28, 88, 90, 122, 127, 153, 157, 160, 163, 190 Mink, American, 65, 65 (fig.) Mojave River, 233, 282–284 West Branch, 282 West Branch, East Fork, 282 (photo) Mokelumne River, 31, 40, 42, 176–178, 177 (photo), 306 Middle Fork, 177 North Fork, 178–179, 178 (photo), 300 South Fork, 8 (photo), 176–177 Monitor Creek, 28 Mono Creek, 204

Mono Lake, 269 Mountain Whitefish, 21, 267 Moyle, Peter, 21, 24, 27, 41, 68, 87, 104, 145, 199, 217, 282 Murray Creek, 285, 302 Murrieta Creek, 251 mussels, 49–50 Nacimiento River, 227 Napa River, 126 narrowleaf willow, 47, 47 (fig.) national parks, rivers in, 187, 190, 193–196, 203–204, 208–210 National Wild and Scenic Rivers, 40, 294– 296. See also specific rivers Nature Conservancy, The, 87, 175, 251 Navarro River, 118–119, 118 (photo), 292, 306, 308 Nelson Creek, 152, 305 New River (Salton Sea basin), 284 New River (Trinity River basin), 96–97, 97 (photo), 296–297, 300 Newt, California, 59, 59 (fig.) North American Beaver, 64, 64 (fig.), 228 Noyo River, 29, 114–116, 115 (photo), 307 oak, valley, 46, 46 (fig.), 148 Old River, 198 Olema Creek, 124 Osprey, 61–62, 61 (fig.) Otter, River, 64, 64 (fig.) Outlet Creek, 103 Owens River, 34, 270–274, 271 (photo), 292, 294, 304–305, 306, 308 Owens Sucker, 58, 272, 276 Oyster Creek, 168 Pacific Creek (Mokelumne River basin), 179 Pajaro River, 228 Palm Canyon Creek, 285–286, 295 palm oasis, 285 Pancho Rico Creek, 228 Patrick Creek, 76 Paynes Creek, 132 perch, 21, 102 Sacramento Perch, 21–24, 134 Tule Perch, 23, 172 Pescadero Creek, 224–225, 224 (photo) Phoebe, Black, 62, 62 (fig.) pikeminnows, 23 Colorado Pikeminnow, 24, 58 Sacramento Pikeminnow, 58, 58 (fig.), 104, 156, 163, 172, 182, 192 Pine Valley Creek, 255 INDEX

323

Pink Salmon, 24, 119 Piru Creek, 238–240, 239 (photo), 295, 305 Pit River, 42, 139–141, 139 (photo), 304 Piute Creek, 204 Piute Cutthroat, 24, 265 plant life, 44–49, 44–49 (figs.), 190. See also specific rivers and species poison oak, 49, 49 (fig.) pollution, 27–28, 83, 127, 169, 198, 227, 247, 254, 284. See also specific rivers; diversions; logging; mining population growth, 39–40 Portuguese Creek, 84 Prairie Creek, 101, 101 (photo) protected streams, best, 91, 193, 202–203, 208–209, 216, 219 Public Policy Institute of California, 35 pupfish, 23, 272, 281 Putah Creek, 25, 37, 42, 171–172, 171 (photo) Pyramid Creek, 167–168, 302 rafting, 306–310. See specific rivers precautions, xvii, 68–69 Rainbow Trout, 23, 25, 55, 55 (fig.), 75, 77–78, 94, 105, 108, 111, 120, 132, 135, 137–138, 141–145, 150, 152, 154–156, 161, 163, 172, 177, 179, 184, 189–192, 195–196, 200, 202, 205–207, 218, 231, 237–238, 245, 252, 261–262, 264, 268–269, 272–277, 304–305. See also Steelhead Rancheria Creek, 119, 292, 308 Razorback Sucker, 58 red osier dogwood, 44, 44 (fig.) Redband Trout, 25, 140 Redeye Bass, 37, 175, 232, 252 red-legged frogs, 26, 59, 224, 230, 232, 239 Redside, Lahontan, 268 Redwood Creek (Humboldt County), 99–100, 100 (photo), 300, 304 Redwood Creek (Marin County), 125–126, 125 (photo), 302 redwood forest rivers Central Coast, 224–226, 231 North Coast, 73–74, 78–80, 98–101, 103, 109–112, 114, 118, 121, 125 Relief Creek, 185 restoration, 41–42, 198–199, 238, 242 North Coast, 79, 87–88, 93, 99, 110, 125–126 Sacramento River basin, 134, 140, 150, 154, 171 Riffle Sculpin, 53, 53 (fig.) 324

INDEX

riparian zone, 19–20, 25, 32, 132, 134, 148, 199, 227. See also plant life riprap, 31–32 River Network, 30 River Otter, 64, 64 (fig.) rivers. See also specific rivers dam-free reaches, 73, 97, 108, 175, 205, 237, 251, 292–293 largest and longest, 2–3 mileage in California, ix natural processes of, 8 numbers of, in California, ix Roach, California, 23, 192 Robinson Creek, 268 Rock Creek (Owens River basin), 275–276, 276 (photo), 300, 302 Rose Creek, 180 Rubicon River, 164–165, 305 runoff. See also flow of rivers; hydrology regional, 2–7, 16 Russian River, 121–123, 122 (photo) Sacramento Blackfish, 21 Sacramento Delta, 34–35, 304 Sacramento Perch, 21–24, 134 Sacramento Pikeminnow, 58, 58 (fig.), 104, 156, 163, 172, 182, 192 Sacramento River, 25, 27, 32, 41, 131–137, 131 (photo), 133 (photo), 292, 300, 304–308 South Fork, 131 Sacramento Splittail, 32 Sacramento Sucker, 23, 58, 58 (fig.), 133, 156, 163, 190, 192, 217 Salinas River, 28, 35, 226–229, 227 (photo), 292 salmon, 304 Chinook Salmon, 21, 27, 54, 54 (fig.), 74–75, 78, 81–94, 97, 103–104, 108, 111, 114, 126, 128, 131–135, 145, 147, 149, 153–154, 160, 175–176, 188, 193, 198 Chum Salmon, 110, 126 Coho Salmon, 24–25, 54–55, 54 (fig.), 74, 77, 81–82, 87–89, 93, 99, 101, 103, 110, 114, 118–125, 224–226 Pink Salmon, 24, 119 Salmon Creek (Monterey County), 232 Salmon Creek (North Yuba River basin), 155 Salmon River, 25, 89–91, 90 (photo), 293, 295, 297, 299, 307 North Fork, 89–91, 295, 297 South Fork, 89–91, 295, 297 San Andreas Fault and rivers, 113, 119–120

San Antonio River, 228 San Benito River, 228 San Carpoforo Creek, 232 San Diego River, 253–254, 254 (photo), 302 San Dieguito River, 253 San Gabriel River, 241, 244–245 East Fork, 245–246, 302, 305 North Fork, 245 West Fork, 245, 245 (photo), 302 San Geronimo Creek, 124 San Jacinto River, 248–249 North Fork, 248, 248 (photo), 295 San Joaquin River, 23, 28, 31, 34, 41, 197– 201, 197 (photo), 293, 299 Middle Fork, 201–203, 202 (photo), 299, 305 North Fork, 203, 299 South Fork, 203–204, 203 (photo), 204 (photo), 299, 301 San Lorenzo Creek (Salinas River basin), 228 San Lorenzo River (Santa Cruz County), 225–226, 225 (photo), 302 San Luis Obispo Creek, 237 San Luis Rey River, 252–253 San Mateo Creek, 237, 249–250, 250 (photo) Sandpiper, Spotted, 62, 62 (fig.) Santa Ana River, 241, 246–247, 246 (photo) Santa Ana Sucker, 58, 238, 242, 244–247 Santa Clara River, 235–236, 236 (photo) Santa Margarita River, 251–252, 251 (photo), 300 Santa Maria River, 233 Santa Ynez River, 234–235, 234 (photo), 237 Santa Ysabel Creek, 253 Schwind, Dick, 68 Scott River, 88–89, 88 (photo), 295, 297 sculpins, 21, 133, 138, 140, 172 Riffle Sculpin, 53, 53 (fig.) Sespe Creek, 237–238, 237 (photo), 295, 299, 303 Shad, American, 21–22, 110, 123, 135 Shadow Creek, 11 (photo), 202, 301 Shasta River, 86–87, 87 (photo), 300 shining willow, 48, 48 (fig.) Sierra Nevada Alliance, 28 Signal Crayfish, 50, 50 (fig.) Silver Creek (South Fork American River basin), 167 Sisquoc River, 232–233, 233 (photo), 295, 300 Smallmouth Bass, 22, 58, 58 (fig.), 93, 156, 163, 170, 207, 218, 304 Smelt, Delta, 21, 23, 57, 57 (fig.)

Smith River, 17 (photo), 23, 25, 28, 73–75, 73 (photo), 293, 295, 297, 299, 304 Middle Fork, 76–77, 77 (photo), 295, 297, 299, 304, 306–307 North Fork, 75–76, 295, 297, 299, 307 South Fork, 77–78, 78 (photo), 293, 295, 297, 299, 306 tributaries, 295, 297, 299 Snake River, 80 South Yuba River Citizens League, 30, 154, 157 Spanish Creek, 151 Speckled Dace, 21, 133, 242, 244, 247, 267, 281 Speckled Dun, Californian, 51 (fig.) Splittail, Sacramento, 32 Spotted Sandpiper, 62, 62 (fig.) Squaw Valley Creek (McCloud River basin), 297 Stanislaus River, iii–iv (photo), 179–183, 180 (photo), 181 (photo), 290–291 (photo), 293, 303, 306, 308 Clark Fork, 185 Middle Fork, 179, 184–185, 185 (photo), 305 North Fork, 14 (photo), 40, 183–184, 183 (photo), 300–301, 307 South Fork, 186, 186 (photo), 302 Stanley, Chuck, 68 State Water Plan (2005), 35 State Wild and Scenic Rivers Program, 108, 297 Steelhead, 21–23, 25, 33, 55, 55 (fig.), 304. See also Rainbow Trout in Central Coast, 224–226, 229–240, 304 in North Coast, 74–78, 81–82, 87–94, 97, 103–104, 106, 108, 110–111, 114, 118–128 in Sacramento River basin, 131–134, 149, 153, 161 in San Joaquin River basin, 188 Stickleback, Threespine, 21 Stienstra, Tom, 68 Stony Creek, 132 strider, water, 52, 52 (fig.) Striped Bass, 21–23, 57, 57 (fig.), 126, 133, 135–136, 149, 153, 161, 182, 287–288, 304 sturgeon, 21, 25, 126, 135–136, 153–154, 304 Green Sturgeon, 22, 53, 82, 110, 133 White Sturgeon, 22, 52–53, 52 (fig.) suckers, 21, 24, 64, 82 Cui-ui Sucker, 260 Flannelmouth Sucker, 287 INDEX

325

suckers—cont’d Largescale Sucker, 58 Lost River Sucker, 81 Owens Sucker, 58, 272, 276 Razorback Sucker, 58 Sacramento Sucker, 23, 58, 58 (fig.), 133, 156, 163, 190, 192, 217 Santa Ana Sucker, 58, 238, 242, 244–247 Summit Creek (Middle Fork Stanislaus River basin), 185 sunfish, 23, 182, 190, 245 Susan River, 258 swallows, 63 Cliff Swallow, 63, 63 (fig.) sycamore, California, 45, 45 (fig.) Tahquitz Creek, 285 Tassajara Creek, 229 Temecula Creek, 251 Temescal Creek (Wash), 249 Temperance Flat Dam proposal, 31, 199 Threespine Stickleback, 21 Tijuana River, 254–255 Toad, Arroyo, 227, 234, 238–239, 250, 253 Trinity River, 23, 37, 41–42, 92–94, 92 (photo), 293, 295, 298, 300, 304, 306, 308 North Fork, 95–96, 296, 298, 300, 302 South Fork, 28, 97–98, 98 (photo), 296, 298, 300, 303 trout, 22–23 Brook Trout, 56, 56 (fig.), 196, 202 Brown Trout, 56, 56 (fig.), 138, 143, 152, 156, 163, 196, 202, 261, 264, 268, 272– 273, 275 Bull Trout, 24, 138 Cutthroat Trout, 21–22, 74–75, 81, 125 Golden Trout, 21, 23–25, 56, 56 (fig.), 202, 217–218 Lahontan Cutthroat Trout, 15, 23–25, 260, 265, 267 Piute Cutthroat, 24, 265 Rainbow Trout, 23, 25, 55, 55 (fig.), 75, 77–78, 94, 105, 108, 111, 120, 132, 135, 137–138, 141–145, 150, 152, 154–156, 161, 163, 172, 177, 179, 184, 189–192, 195–196, 200, 202, 205–207, 218, 231, 237–238, 245, 252, 261–262, 264, 268– 269, 272–277, 304–305. See also Steelhead Redband Trout, 25, 140 Truckee River, xi (photo), 25, 259–261, 260 (photo), 305–306 Tui Chub, 267, 272 Tulare Lake, 205, 207, 210 326

INDEX

Tule Perch, 23, 172 Tule River, 34, 213–214 Middle Fork, 214 (photo) North Fork, 214 South Fork, 214 Tuolumne River, vi (photo), xviii–1 (photo), 187–190, 187 (photo) Lyell Fork, 190–191, 190 (photo) Tuolumne River Preservation Trust, 188, 192 Turtle, Western Pond, 60, 60 (fig.), 229, 234, 253 Tuthill, Bill, 68 Ukonom Creek, 3 (photo) urban rivers, 125–128, 147, 160, 190, 241– 247, 252–255 valley oak, 46, 46 (fig.), 148 Van Duzen River, 112–113, 112 (photo), 293, 296, 298 Ventura River, 41, 235–237 Vireo, Bell’s, 234, 239, 250, 252, 282 Walker River, 25, 260 East, 267–268, 268 (photo), 304 West, 266–267, 266 (photo), 298, 307 walnut, California black, 45, 45 (fig.) water conservation, 35, 188 water quality. See also pollution and cleanest streams, 74, 205 water strider, 52, 52 (fig.) water withdrawals. See diversions waterfalls Central Coast, 243 Eastern Sierra, 263, 267, 268 North Coast, 84–85, 95 Sacramento River basin, 137–138, 141, 144, 152, 155, 158 San Joaquin River basin, 186, 189, 193– 195, 197, 202, 212 watershed disturbance, 18, 75. See also pollution; mining; logging Western Flycatcher, 282 Western Pond Turtle, 60, 60 (fig.), 229, 234, 253 Western Rivers Conservancy, 84, 299 white alder, 48, 48 (fig.) White Sturgeon, 22, 52–53, 52 (fig.) Whitefish, Mountain, 21, 267 whitewater. See also specific rivers precautions, xvii, 68 classification of, 69 Whitney Creek, x (photo), 216 Wild Trout Waters, 22, 305

wilderness, best protected streams, 91, 193, 202–203, 208–209, 216, 219 wildlife, 25–26, 49–65. See also specific rivers and species Williamson River, 80 Willow Creek (Arroyo Seco River basin), 229 Willow Creek (Monterey County), 232 Willow Creek (Russian River basin), 122 Willow Flycatcher, 250, 252 willows, 272. See also riparian zone black willow, 47, 47 (fig.) narrowleaf willow, 47, 47 (fig.) shining willow, 48, 48 (fig.) Wood Duck, 60, 60 (fig.) Woods Creek, 209

Wooley Creek, 91–92, 295, 297, 299 Wren, Canyon, 63, 63 (fig.) Yellow Creek (North Fork Feather River basin), 305 Yellow-billed Cuckoo, 136, 220, 282 yellow-legged frogs, 23, 26, 59, 162, 232, 248, 249 Foothill Yellow-legged Frog, 59, 59 (fig.) Yosemite Creek, 195–196, 196 (photo) Yuba River, 28, 35, 42, 153–154, 153 (photo), 306 Middle, 156 North, 155–156, 155 (photo), 300, 307 South, 156–158, 157 (photo), 298, 300, 302

INDEX

327

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A BOUT TH E AU TH O R

Tim Palmer has written 21 books about rivers, the American landscape, conservation, and adventure travel. He has spent a lifetime hiking, exploring, and photographing along streams, and his passion has been a career of writing and speaking on behalf of river conservation. He has paddled on more than 300 rivers nationwide, including 50 in California. Tim’s Rivers of California: Nature’s Lifelines in the Golden State is an artbook of 176 color photos and text about rivers statewide, published in 2010 by Heyday Books, which also published Tim’s 2012 photo book, California Glaciers. His photo book, Luminous Mountains: The Sierra Nevada of California, was published in 2008. Rivers of America was published by Harry N. Abrams in 2006 and features 200 color photos of streams nationwide, and a companion book, Trees and Forests of America, was published by Abrams in 2008. Tim’s book of text and color photos about wilderness in California, California Wild, won the Benjamin Franklin Award as the best book on nature 329

and the environment in 2004. The Heart of America: Our Landscape, Our Future won the Independent Publisher’s Book Award as the best essay and travel book in 2000. The Columbia won the National Outdoor Book Award in 1998. Tim wrote the text for the Yosemite Association’s Yosemite: The Promise of Wildness, which received the Director’s Award from the National Park Service as the best book about a national park in 1997. Among other river books, Endangered Rivers and the Conservation Movement recounts the history of river conservation, The Wild and Scenic Rivers of America covers the national system of protected rivers, and Lifelines: The Case for River Conservation addresses modern issues affecting rivers nationwide. Recognizing his contributions in writing and photography, American Rivers gave Tim its first Lifetime Achievement Award in 1988, and Perception Inc. honored him as America’s River Conservationist of the Year in 2000. California’s Friends of the River has recognized him with both its highest honors, the Peter Behr Award in 2002 and the Mark Dubois Award in 2010. Paddler magazine named Tim one of the 10 greatest river conservationists of our time, and in 2000 included him as one of the “100 greatest paddlers of the century.” In 2005 Tim received the Distinguished Alumni Award from the College of Arts and Architecture at the Pennsylvania State University. Topping off these honors, he received the national Conservation Achievement Award (“Connie”) for communications given by the National Wildlife Federation in 2011. Before becoming a full-time writer, Tim worked for 8 years as a land-use planner. He has a bachelor of science degree in landscape architecture. Tim speaks and gives slide shows for universities, conservation groups, outdoor clubs, and conferences nationwide. You can see more of his work at the website www.timpalmer.org.

About the Photos All photos were taken with film, and none were digitally manipulated in any way to change the color, content, or other aspects. I use Canon A1 cameras with Canon fixed-focal length lenses ranging from 17 to 200 mm. Most film was Fuji Velvia, which captures colors largely as they are in nature. The publisher scanned the slides as accurately as possible to reproduce them for digital printing. Additional photos can be seen in my large-format photography books, Rivers of California and Rivers of America.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

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