Table of contents : The start of the everest trail -- My kingdom for a horse -- The seedy side of Namche -- The plot thickens -- Birthday peanuts -- Acclimatising on Pokalde -- The glare of the Khumbu -- Peace and solitude --Arrival at base camp -- Settling in at base camp -- The puja -- Ladder training -- A walk to Pumori base camp -- Icefall fears -- The icefall -- Tragedy -- A storm brewing -- The sherpa summons -- Rumours -- Rally -- Escape to the hills -- Summit meeting -- Bewilderment -- Escape from base camp -- The double Everest tragedy -- Epilogue one year on.