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Министерство образования и науки Российской Федерации Южно-Уральский государственный университет Кафедра иностранных языков Ш143.21-9 K56
О.И. Ковалёва, Е.Н. Ярославова
ENGLISH FOR BACHELORS: TECHNOLOGY OF ARTISTIC MATERIAL PROCESSING Учебное пособие
Челябинск Издательский центр ЮУрГУ 2018
ББК Ш143.21-923 K56
Одобрено учебно-методической комиссией Института лингвистики и международных коммуникаций
Рецензенты: к.п.н., доцент Л.Б..Довгополова; к.п.н., доцент Т.А. Бояльская
К56
Ковалёва, О.И. English for Bachelors: Technology of Artistic Material Processing: учебное пособие / О.И. Ковалёва, Е.Н. Ярославова. – Челябинск: Издательский центр ЮУрГУ, 2018. – 66 с. Учебное пособие предназначено для студентов второго курса специальности «Технология художественной обработки материалов». Цель пособия – формирование у студентов иноязычной профессионально-ориентированной коммуникативной компетенции. Учебное пособие состоит из двух глав и включает материал для развития навыков чтения с использованием текстов профессионального характера, а также комплекс заданий, направленный на совершенствование лингвистической и дискурсивной компетенции. ББК Ш143.21-923
© Издательский центр ЮУрГУ, 2018
PART I. ART AND DESIGN Unit 1. What is Art Lead-in 1. What is art? 2. What are the main constituencies of art? 3. What forms of art do you know? Look at the pictures below and match them with the pieces of art : a. Composition by Kandinsky b. The Thinker by Auguste Rodin c. Starry Night by Vincent Van Gogh d. Venus de Milo by Alexandros of Antioch
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Read the following quotations and discuss Painting is poetry that is seen rather than felt, and poetry is painting that is felt rather than seen. ~Leonardo da Vinci Why should you think that beauty is a stone on the beach, for any passerby to pick up? Beauty is something wonderful and strange, that the artist creates in torment, out of chaos. It isn't always easy to recognize at first. For that you must have knowledge, and sensitiveness, and imagination. ~W. Somerset Maugham (1874–1965) and Albert Lewin, The Moon and Sixpence Art is the desire of a man to express himself, to record the reactions of his personality to the world he lives in. ~Amy Lowell 3
We all know that Art is not truth. Art is a lie that makes us realize truth, at least the truth that is given us to understand. The artist must know the manner whereby to convince others of the truthfulness of his lies. ~Pablo Picasso Art is a collaboration between God and the artist, and the less the artist does the better. ~André Gide
Lesson A. The Main Concepts of Art Reading and vocabulary 1. diverse – различный, разнообразный 2. imaginative –одарённый богатым воображением, образный, обладающий богатым воображением 3. skill – умение, мастерство 4. to appreciate – ценить, оценивать, различать 5. decorative arts– изобразительное/декоративное искусство 6. visual arts – изобразительное/визуальное искусство 7. fine arts – изящные искусства 8. visual media – наглядная информация/средства наглядной информации 9. craft – ремесло, искусство, умение, промыселa 10. to refer – ссылаться, упоминать, относиться 11. to distinguish – отличать, различать, распознавать 12. to acquire – приобретать, получать, достигать, овладевать 13. to apply – обращаться, применять, прикладывать 14. to constitute – составлять, основывать, образовывать 15. mimesis – подражание 16. to сonsider – признавать, считать , рассматриваться 1. Skim the text for general understanding. Think of the title to the text. Art is a highly diverse range of human activities engaged in creating visual, auditory, or performed artifacts – artworks – that express the author’s imaginative or technical skill, and are intended to be appreciated for their beauty or emotional power. The oldest documented forms of art are visual arts, which include images or objects in fields like painting, sculpture, printmaking , photography, and other visual media . Architecture is often included as one of the visual arts; however, like the decorative arts, it involves the creation of objects where the practical considerations of use are essential, in a way that they usually are not in another visual art, like a painting. Art may be characterized in terms of mimesis (its representation of reality), expression, communication of emotion, or other qualities. Though the definition of what constitutes art is disputed and has changed over time, general descriptions center on the idea of imaginative or technical skill stemming from human agency and creation. When it comes to visually identifying a work of art, there is no single set of values or aesthetic traits. A Baroque painting will not necessarily share much with a contemporary performance piece, but they are both considered art. Art is often examined through the interaction of the principles and elements of art. The principles of art include movement, unity, harmony, variety, balance, contrast, proportion and pattern. The elements include texture, form, space, shape, color, value and line. The various interactions between the elements and principles of art help artists to organize sensorially pleasing works of art while also giving viewers a framework within which to analyze and discuss aesthetic ideas. (1541 п.зн). https://courses.lumenlearning.com/boundless-arthistory/chapter/what-is-art/ 4
2. Read the text once again and mark the statements as true (T), false (F). 1) Wide variety of human activities dealing with artworks creation that are aimed at being appreciated for their beauty or emotional power is considered to be art. 2) Visual arts including painting, sculpture, printmaking, photography, and other visual media are stated as the oldest recorded art forms. 3) Architecture is one of the forms of visual arts. 4) The interaction of elements and principles of art help to examine art. 3. Match the words with the definitions. 1) skill 2) object 3) media 4) literature
5) quality
6) philosophy
7) beauty
a) degree of excellence; characteristic, attribute; nature, character; excellence b) study of the principles of existence behavior and knowledge, study of the nature of human thought and of the world c) he quality of being pleasing, especially to look at, or someone or something that gives great pleasure, especially when looking at it d) article, thing; goal; objective; focus of a thought or action; (Grammar) recipient of action; (Computers) image or part of a document that can be embedded within another document; (in OOP) self-contained unit of data with its own built-in procedures e) the learned ability to carry out a task with pre-determined results often within a given amount of time, energy, or both. In other words, the abilities that one possesses f) writings having lasting artistic value (i.e. poems, novels, essays, etc.); body of writing from a particular country (or time period, etc.); body of writing dealing with a certain subject; literary work; any printed material; profession of a writer g) means by which something is accomplished; means of expression; channel of communication; middle man, intermediary; substance or environment through which something is affected; broker; psychic (Spiritual)
4. Read the sentence pairs. Choose which word or phrase best fits each blank. visual arts / decorative arts A. The ________ are art forms that create works that are primarily visual in nature, such as ceramics, drawing, painting, sculpture, printmaking, design, crafts, photography, video, film making and architecture. B. The _____ are arts or crafts whose object is the design and manufacture of objects that are both beautiful and functional. It includes interior design, but not usually architecture. skill/craft A. Fine art refers to a __________used to express the artist's creativity. B. A _____ is an activity such as weaving, carving, or pottery that involves making things skilfully by hand, often in a traditional way. fine arts/visual media A. Picasso exhibition will be held at the Pushkin _____Museum in Moscow and the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. B. ________are sources of information in the form of visual representations 5
Listening and watching Watch the video and complete https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwK4zv5rdbA 1. There is no one universal definition of art, because __________________ 2. Art can be _____________________ 3. It’s not just delightful but can also show ___________________ 4. It’ s not just the beautiful but _______________________ 5. Art can be in _______________________ 6. The definition of art has transformed ____________________ 7. As the saying goes, “Art is _________________ 8. According to Pablo Picasso “The purpose of art __________________ 9. Science says “Art makes________________________ Speaking Look at the picture, study definitions of art.
6. With a partner discuss different views on what art is. Use language such as For agreement: For disagreement use: – I fully agree – I don’t think that’s right – It goes without saying – Well, I’m not sure if it’s true – I believe it’s correct – Actually, I disagree – I think it is right – Frankly speaking, I disagree – I quite agree – I can’t agree with it
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Lesson B. Theory of Art Before you read talk on the following What is considered as art? What are the major art movements? Reading 1. Read the text about different art theories and fill in the table. Theory Contemporary craft thinkers
Key concepts
Examples
How best to define the term "art" is a subject of constant contention, many books and journal articles have been published arguing over even the basics of what we mean by the term "art". The main recent sense of the word "art" is roughly as an abbreviation for creative art or "fine art." Here we mean that skill is being used to express the artist's creativity, or to engage the audience's aesthetic sensibilities, or to draw the audience towards consideration of the "finer" things. Often, if the skill is being used in a functional object, people will consider it a craft instead of art, a suggestion which is highly disputed by many Contemporary Craft thinkers. Likewise, if the skill is being used in a commercial or industrial way it may be considered design instead of art, or contrariwise these may be defended as art forms, perhaps called applied art. Some thinkers, for instance, have argued that the difference between fine art and applied art has more to do with the actual function of the object than any clear definitional difference. Art usually implies no function other than to convey or communicate an idea. Even as late as 1912 it was normal in the West to assume that all art aims at beauty, and thus that anything that wasn't trying to be beautiful couldn't count as art. The Cubists, Dadaists, Stravinsky and many later art movements struggled against this conception that beauty was central to the definition of art, with such success that, according to Danto, "Beauty had disappeared not only from the advanced art of the 1960's but from the advanced philosophy of art of that decade as well.. Proceduralists often suggest that it is the process by which a work of art is created or viewed that makes it art, not any inherent feature of an object, or how well received it is by the institutions of the art world after its introduction to society. If a poet writes down several lines, intending them as a poem, the very procedure by which it is written makes it a poem. Whereas if a journalist writes exactly the same set of words, intending them as shorthand notes to help him write a longer article 7
later, these would not be a poem. Leo Tolstoy, on the other hand, claims in his what is art? (1897) that what decides whether or not something is art is how it is experienced by its audience, not by the intention of its creator. Functionalists like Monroe Beardsley argue that whether or not a piece counts as art depends on what function it plays in a particular context; the same Greek vase may play a non-artistic function in one context (carrying wine), and an artistic function in another context (helping us to appreciate the beauty of the human figure). ' Marxist attempts to define art focus on its place in the mode of production, such as in Walter Benjamin's essay The Author as Producer,] and/or its political role in class struggle. Revising some concepts of the Marxist philosopher Louis Althusser, Gary Tedman defines art in terms of social reproduction of the relations of production on the aesthetic level (2515). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_art
2. Read the text once again once again and present it in the form of associogramme.
The concepts of art
The aim of art
Producti on value of art
The role of art
Extra practice Art idioms. Read and discuss. Make comments . Act out situations. Art is long and life is short. Works of art last much longer than human lives. Life is too short to learn everything you need to know about a particular discipline. Alan: You ought to do something besides paint pictures in your spare time. Come out with us, have some fun. Bob: Having fun will not win me immortality. Only my paintings can do that. Art is long and life is short. I always feel a sense of awe when I look at the Babylonian statues in the art museum. They were made thousands of years ago. Art is long and life is short. 8
2. Blank canvas A person or thing that has nothing of substance or permanence within or imprinted upon him, her, or it, such that it can be easily filled with entirely new things. Refers to a painter's canvas that has yet to be painted on. Children's minds are blank canvasses, so we have to be sure to provide them with enriching education and opportunities so as to give them the best possible future. I love moving into a new house and having a blank canvas to make my own! 3. Fine art Something requiring highly developed techniques and skills. This term alludes to the fine arts, such as music, painting, and sculpture, which require both skill and talent. It is now often used to describe anything that takes skill to do. 4. Paint (something) with a broad brush To describe or characterize something in very general, vague, or broad terms, ignoring or neglecting to include specific details. When asked about how she would stabilize the economy, the candidate painted her plan with a broad brush, resorting to vague claims about creating jobs and getting people back to work. 5. State of the art Having or using the most advanced, up-to-date technology available. Our new state-of-the-art facility will be at the forefront of cancer research. After working in such a drab, old-fashioned office for so long, it's refreshing to work somewhere that's so state of the art.
Lesson C. Purpose of Art Before you read talk on the following. What does art do? What is the purpose of art? Look at the pictures below. What type of art do they demonstrate?
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Reading 1. Read the text and choose the headings (A-E) to the paragraphs A. Art as a "free zone" B. Art for social causes C. The Avant-Garde. Art for political change. D. Art as entertainment E. Communication. Art has had a great number of different functions throughout its history, making its purpose difficult to abstract or quantify to any single concept. The different purposes of art may be grouped according to those that are non-motivated and those that are motivated (Lévi-Strauss). Motivated purposes of art refer to intentional, conscious actions on the part of the artists or creator. These may be to bring about political change, to comment on an aspect of society, to convey a specific emotion or mood, to address personal psychology, to illustrate another discipline, to (with commercial arts) sell a product, or simply as a form of communication. (I)_______________________ Art, at its simplest, is a form of communication. As most forms of communication have an intent or goal directed toward another individual, this is a motivated purpose. Illustrative arts, such as scientific illustration, are a form of art as communication. Maps are another example. However, the content need not be scientific. Emotions, moods and feelings are also communicated through art. (II)____________________. Art may seek to bring about a particular emotion or mood, for the purpose of relaxing or entertaining the viewer. This is often the function of the art industries of Motion Pictures and Video Games. (III) ______________.One of the defining functions of early twentieth-century art has been to use visual images to bring about political change. Art movements that had this goal–Dadaism, Surrealism, Russian constructivism, and Abstract Expressionism, among others–are collectively referred to as the avante-garde arts. (IV) __________ removed from the action of the social censure. Unlike the avantgarde movements, which wanted to erase cultural differences in order to produce new universal values, contemporary art has enhanced its tolerance towards cultural differences as well as its critical and liberating functions (social inquiry, activism, subversion, deconstruction ...), becoming a more open place for research and experimentation. (V) ________________ Art can be used to raise awareness for a large variety of causes. A number of art activities were aimed at raising awareness of autism, cancer, human trafficking, and a variety of other topics, such as ocean conservation, human rights in Darfur, murdered and missing Aboriginal women, elder abuse, and pollution. Trashion, using trash to make fashion, practiced by artists such as Marina DeBris is one example of using art to raise awareness about pollution. The functions of art described above are not mutually exclusive, as many of them may overlap. For example, art for the purpose of entertainment may also seek to sell a product, i.e. the movie or video game. (2447) https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/a0/Castaway_Dress_Designed_by_Marina_DeBris.jpg 2. Read the text once again. Then choose the correct answers. 1) What is the purpose of this text? A. to describe different functions the art has had throughout its history B. to present different groups of art purposes according to those that are non-motivated and those that are motivated C. to speak in detail about motivated purposes of art 2) Which is of the following is NOT true about motivated purposes of art A. they relate to intentional, conscious actions on the part of the artists or creator B. they are integral to being human, and do not fulfill a specific external purpose C. are not mutually exclusive, because they may overlap 10
3) According to the text the social purpose of art aimed at A. raising people's awareness in different problematic issues B. creating a free zone for people's social activity C. sharing new ideas Watch and discuss Watch the video “What is Art for” and discuss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn0bDD4gXrE Art keeps us hopeful Art makes us less lonely Art rebalances us Art helps us to appreciate stuff Art is propaganda for what really matters Art as a therapy
Project work. Present your ideas “What does art do? Writing Write a short essay” What is art to me?”
Unit 2. Forms of Art Lead-in
What are the different art forms? How can we appreciate art? What is the most valuable art in the world?
ART
Visual
Applied
Performing
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Decorative
Look at the pictures below and match them with the chart above. a.
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c.
d.
e.
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Read the following definitions of different forms of art. Add some more information concerning these points. 1. Visual Art is a form of art that uses any medium to signify the artist's idea, sentiment and imagination. Examples of visual arts: Paintings, Drawings, Sculptures, Photography. 2. Applied Art is a portion of visual art and it can be defined as art that has real-world application as well as functionality. Examples of applied art: Architecture, Fashion Design, Wood Crafts, Interior Design. 3. The Decorative Arts are arts or crafts whose object is the design and manufacture of objects that are both beautiful and functional. It includes interior design, but not usually architecture. The decorative arts are often categorized in distinction to the "fine arts", namely painting, drawing, photography, and large-scale sculpture, which generally produce objects solely for their aesthetic quality and capacity to stimulate the intellect. 4. Performing Art is that form of art, which includes dance, music, opera, films, theater, drama, magic shows and stand up comedies. It is the most celebrated and appreciated form of art.
Lesson A. Visual Arts Before you read talk on the following. What is visual arts and examples? What are the three visual arts? What is the purpose of visual arts?
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Reading and vocabulary 1. applied art – декоративно-прикладное искусство 2. auditory arts – театр и музыка 3. artwork – произведение искусства, художественное творчество 4. experience – опыт 5. medium – способ, средство 6. utilitarian – полезный, практический 7. jewelry making – изготовление ювелирных изделий 8. metal crafting – обработка металла 9. woodworking – обработка древесины 10. handicraft – изделие ручной работы 11. vernacular art – местный промысел 12. artist – творческий работник 13. craftsperson – умелец, специалист, ремесленник 1. Read the text and mark the statements as true (T), false (F). 1) Visual arts stimulate people through a visual experience and provoke positive or negative feelings. 2) The decorative arts include ceramics, furniture and interior design, jewelry making, metal crafting, and woodworking and perform utilitarian function and hardly imply artistic style. 3) In Middle English the term "The Arts" was used to denote the seven sciences, or liberal arts. 4) Artist is a person creating artworks and applied art media. The visual arts are those creations that we can see rather than something like the auditory arts, which we hear. These art forms are very common and extremely diverse, from the artwork that hangs on your wall to the movie you watched last night. The visual arts include mediums such as drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, photography, film, and printmaking. Many of these pieces of art are created to stimulate us through a visual experience. When we look at them, they provoke a feeling of some sort, whether good or bad.Within the visual arts is a category known as the decorative arts. This is art that is more utilitarian and has a function but retains an artistic style and still requires talent to create. The decorative arts include ceramics, furniture and interior design, jewelry making, metal crafting, and woodworking. The Arts," as a term, has an interesting history. During the Middle Ages, The Arts were very scholarly, limited to seven categories and they did not involve creating anything for people to look at. They were grammar, rhetoric, dialectic logic, arithmetic, geometry, astronomy, and music. To further confuse matters, these seven Arts were known as the "Fine Arts," in order to distinguish them from the "Useful Arts." Why? Only "fine" people–those who did not do manual labor – studied them. Presumably, the Useful Arts people were too busy being useful to require an education. At some point in the ensuing centuries, people realized there was a difference between a science and an art. The phrase fine arts came to mean anything that had been created to please the senses. After losing the sciences, the list now included music, dance, opera, and literature, as well as what we normally think of as "art": painting, sculpture, architecture, and the decorative arts. Current usage of the term "visual arts" includes fine art as well as the applied, decorative arts and crafts, but this was not always the case. Before the Arts and Crafts Movement in Britain and elsewhere at the turn of the 20th century, the term 'artist' was often restricted to a person working in the fine arts (such as painting, sculpture, or printmaking) and not the handicraft, craft, or applied art media. The 13
distinction was emphasized by artists of the Arts and Crafts Movement, who valued vernacular art forms as much as high forms. Art schools made a distinction between the fine arts and the crafts, maintaining that a craftsperson could not be considered a practitioner of the arts. Vocabulary practice 1. Find English equivalents for the following Russian words and word-combinations. 1) средство 2) создание гравюр и эстампов 3) визуальный 4) ремесло 5) различать 6) ручной труд 7) требовать 8) разнообразный 9) прагматический 10) общеупотребительный 11) художник, работающий в определённом стиле 12) различать 13) чувство 14) прикладное искусство 15) ограниченный 2. Find synonyms in column A to the following words in column B. 1) comprise a) create 2) induce b) require 3) suppress c) confuse 4) claim d) include 5) compose e) retain 6) embarrass f) provoke 7) gratify g) please 3. Match the given terms with their definitions. creation a) relating to seeing or sight. 1) drawing b) the knowledge or skill acquired by a period of practical experience of something, especially that gained in a particular profession. 2) visual c) natural aptitude or skill. 3) experience d) the activity or skill of making things from wood; woodwork. 4) talent e) personal ornaments, such as necklaces, rings, or bracelets, that are typically made from or contain jewels and precious metal 5) woodworking f) the action or process of bringing something into existence. 6) jewelry g) a picture or diagram made with a pencil, pen, or crayon rather than paint. 4. Study the following groups of derivatives. Pay attention to the word-formation process. Make sentences of your own. 1) art-artist-artistic-artless-arty 2) create-creation-creative-creator-creativity 3) category-categorical-categorize 4) require-requirement-required-requisite 14
5) craft-craftiness-craftsman-craftsmanship 6) distinct-distinction-distinctive-distinctly-distinctness 7) restrict-restricted-restriction-restrictive 8) use-used-useful-user-useless; 9) decorate-decorated-decorative-decoration-decorator 10) sense-senseless- sensible-sensibility-sensitize 5. Read the sentence pairs. Choose which word or phrase best fits each blank applied art / auditory arts A. The _________ includes fields such as industrial design, illustration, and commercial art. B. In humanities, ______ is art that is heard at one particular time. Examples of ____ include music and poetry artist/craftsman A. A person who makes beautiful objects by hand is a _____________ B. An ___________ is person who creates art , a person who is skilled at drawing, painting, etc. jewelry making /craft A. If you're considering turning your hobby into a business, ______ might be just the ____ for you. 6. Read the text once again and answer the questions: 1) What kinds of art does the term “visual arts” comprise? 2) What are the differences between a craftsperson and a practitioner of art? 3) What were the Art during the Middle Ages? 4) What is an artist? craftsperson?
Lesson B. Applied Art Before you read talk on the following. What are the fine and applied arts? What are the different types of applied arts? Reading and vocabulary 1. Read the text and choose the (A-E) to the paragraphs (I-V). A. Commercial Design B. What does Applied Art include? C. Decorative Art D. Architecture E. Applied Art: Definition and meaning (I)_______________ The term "applied art" refers to the application of artistic design to utilitarian objects in everyday use. Whereas works of fine art have no function other than providing aesthetic or intellectual stimulation to the viewer, works of applied art are usually functional objects, which have been "prettified" or creatively designed with both aesthetics and function in mind. Applied art embraces a huge range of products and items, from a teapot or chair, to the walls and roof of a railway station or concert hall, a fountain pen or computer mouse. 15
(II )_________________For the sake of simplicity, works of applied art comprise two different types: standard machine-made products which have had a particular design applied to them, to make them more attractive and easy-to-use; and individual, aesthetically pleasing but mostly functional, craft products made by artisans or skilled workers. Artistic disciplines that are classified as applied arts, include industrial design, fashion design, interior design, and graphic art and design (including computer graphics), as well as most types of decorative art (eg. furniture, carpets, tapestry, embroidery, batik, jewellery, precious metalwork, pottery, goldsmithing, basketry, mosaic art, and glassware). Illuminated manuscripts and later book illustration are also classified as applied arts. Architecture too is best viewed as an applied art. (III)______________The first applied art to be practised in a major way was architecture. From the Egyptian Pyramids, the Ziggurats of Sumer and the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, to the precisely organized proportions of Greek temples and the enduring engineering quality of Roman viaducts and bridges, architects combine aesthetics with mathematics to design a functional but pleasing structure. Since then, the demands of the modern world have included housing and commercial projects, notably high-rise buildings and skyscrapers. (IV)________________Aside from architecture, applied art received its biggest boost from the growth in commerce during the 19th century, following the Industrial Revolution. Suddenly, competitive manufacturers and service providers needed to ensure that their products and services "looked good" as well as functioned properly. This demand for improved aesthetics led to the establishment of numerous design schools and courses, from which a new generation of industrial designers emerged. Later, as the range of products multiplied, and new printing techniques appeared, they were joined by fashion designers, graphic designers and most recently computer graphics designers. (V)________________In addition to architecture and design, applied art also includes decorative arts: pottery, jade carving, lacquerware, porcelain ,enamelwork, fine-furniture, textiles, glassware and other objets d'art. (2368) 2. Read the text one again paying attention to the words and word-combinations in bold. Use dictionary. 3. Match the English word combination with their Russian equivalents. 1) refer to application a) ассортимент продукции 2) utilitarian object b) конкурентоспособные производства 3) particular design c) получить наибольший импульс 4) aesthetically pleasing d) гобелен и витраж 5) precious metalwork e) полезный объект 6) competitive manufactures f) особый дизайн 7) the range of products g) эстетично 8) tapestry and stained glass h) драгоценные металлы 9) demand for i) относиться к использованию 10) receive the biggest boost j) спрос на 4. Make up word-combinations using the words from the table 1) functional a) workers 2) to make b) attractive 3) craft c) products 4) skilled d) designers 5) graphic e) art 6) printing f) objects 7) industrial g) techniques 16
5. Read the text again and complete the sentences. 1) The term "applied art" refers_____________________________. 2) Works of applied art are usually__________________________. 3) Applied art embraces___________________________________. 4) Works of applied art comprise two different types______. 5) Artistic disciplines that are classified as applied arts__________. 6) The first applied art to be practiced__________________. 7) Applied art received its biggest boost_____________ 8) )In addition to architecture and design, applied art also includes________________. Watch and discuss Watch the video about different forms of art https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9uTtTTQs2I Answer the questions 1. Why is it impossible to imagine our world without any creative arts? 2. What are the major forms of art? Watch again and fill in the table Form of art Type of art Key concepts Genres/types Medium/material Visual arts Drawing
Speaking Discuss the following: 1.What are the differences between applied and fine arts? 2. What items and products of applied can you mention? Have you got any of them in your household? 3. Can you name any famous works of applied art? 4. What are the main tendencies of "contemporary" applied art?
Lesson C. Decorative Arts Before you read talk on the following. What is an example of a decorative art? What is the difference between fine art and decorative art? Reading 1. Skim the text paying special attention to the words in bold. Broadly understood, the decorative arts comprise objects that possess artistic qualities and were created by skilled makers, but do not belong to the general categories of painting, sculpture, or architecture. They include, but are not limited to, the decoration and furnishing of interiors, personal adornment (costume and jewelry), and, later, with the rise of industrialization, product design.
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Furniture, made of a variety of woods according to regional availability and preference, forms another basic category, with tables, chairs, beds, case furniture (chests, cupboards, commodes, etc.), and frames representing the major types. Plain, carved, or painted, frequently inlaid (intarsia) or veneered (marquetry) in patterns or pictures with a variety of materials, or at times gilt and embellished with metal mounts, furniture could range from the mundane to the highly sophisticated in design and manufacture. Ceramics, one of the most ancient crafts, also experienced an increase in variety, artistic attention, and refinement. Major categories of metalwork are associated with cooking and the table, arms and armor, liturgical objects, lighting and heating, and jewelry. Depending on the rarity and qualities of the materials used, such works comprised utilitarian objects (bronze, brass, iron, steel, pewter) as well as more decorative ones (gold, silver, gilt silver, gilt bronze), intended mainly, but not exclusively, for show and status. Because of their high value, works in gold and silver received particular artistic attention, leading to an extraordinary sophistication of all the related techniques: the raising of sheet through embossing and chasing; the successful casting of detailed models, large and small, as well as natural objects; the development of hollow lost wax casting to achieve series of identical pieces; and enameling in translucent and opaque colors on flat (champlevé, basse taille, painted enamel) and round (en ronde bosse) surfaces. The art of glass, retained in Europe since the Roman Empire, flourished a new from the early sixteenth century in particular in Venice, where clear crystal glass was rediscovered and fashioned into vessels, stemware, and mirrors (backed with an amalgam of mercury and tin). Centers in northern and central Europe (Nuremberg, Munich, Potsdam, Prague, Dresden, Switzerland) continued to produce stained glass and hard crystal suitable for etching and engraving (the latter a specialty in Holland) while geometric cut glass decoration was developed in England in the mideighteenth century and widely manufactured in Ireland (Cork, Waterford), Germany, and Bohemia. Among the works preserved today, those made for the wealthy elite far outnumber those made for les economically strong consumers. https://www.encyclopedia.com/literature-and-arts/fashion-design-and-crafts/arts-andcrafts/decorative-arts 2. Fill in the correct prepositions. 1) The decorative arts comprise objects that possess artistic qualities and were created…skilled makers. 2) Related to textiles, costume history examines the development of forms and techniques of dress and body ornament, which from the beginning, but especially since the eighteenth century, focused increasingly….. female dress. 3) Although production was tailored in an increasingly commercial way…… demand and changing fashion, consumption was massed in the upper social classes, which set the tone for others. 4) Depending…the rarity and qualities of the materials used, such works comprised utilitarian objects. 5) Although production was tailored …. an increasingly commercial way toward demand and changing fashion, consumption was massed …. the upper social classes, which set the tone for others.
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Writing Focus on summarizing information. Summary Writing Format When writing a summary, remember that it should be in the form of a paragraph. A summary begins with an introductory sentence that states the text’s title, author and main point of the text as you see it. A summary is written in your own words. A summary contains only the ideas of the original text. Do not insert any of your own opinions, interpretations, deductions or comments into a summary. Identify in order the significant sub-claims the author uses to defend the main point. Copy word-for-word three separate passages from the essay that you think support and/or defend the main point of the essay as you see it. Cite each passage by first signaling the work and the author, put “quotation marks” around the passage you chose, and put the number of the paragraph where the passages can be found immediately after the passage. Using source material from the essay is important. Why? Because defending claims with source material is what you will be asked to do when writing papers for your college professors. Write a last sentence that “wraps” up your summary; often a simple rephrasing of the main point. https://courses.lumenlearning.com/englishcomp1v2xmaster/chapter/how-to-write-a-summary/
Extra practice Art idioms. Read and discuss. Make comments To paint (oneself) into a corner – загнать себя в угол = поставить себя в безвыходное положение. Looks like you've painted yourself into a corner – Похоже, ты загнал себя в угол. A picture is worth a thousand words – «картинка стоит тысячи слов». Аналог пословицы: лучше один раз увидеть, чем сто раз услышать. Everyone knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – Все знают, что лучше один раз увидеть, чем сто раз услышать. To paint the town red – Отпраздновать по полной программе, удариться в веселье. Well, don't you know how to paint the town red! – Что ж, а ты умеешь повеселиться! To see / look at the big picture – Смотреть шире, видеть картину в целом. Perhaps you should look at the bigger picture – Возможно, тебе следует смотреть шире на вещи. Speaking Discuss the following. Who sets the tone for application of this or that thing? What types of material are usually used for making household things? What countries are world famous leaders in production of ceramics goods? How do you understand the term “utilitarian object”? 19
What items are considered to be the most valuable and valued in interior decoration? What items of interior can be produced from metal? What is enameling and etching used for? Project work Split into groups. Choose one of the art forms. Make up a poster presentation.
Unit 3. Design and Composition Lead-in Is design connected with engineering? What fields of industry and technology is design connected with? What are the names of outstanding designers? Look at the photos below. Name the ones you know . What are they famous for?
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Read the following quotations and translate them. Discuss them in pairs and make your comments. “Good design is like a refrigerator–when it works, no one notices, but when it doesn’t, it sure stinks.” –Irene Au Creativity is nothing but a mind set free.” –Torrie T. Asai “Design transcends agenda. It speaks to the politics of optimism.” –Paul Bennett “It’s through mistakes that you actually can grow. You have to get bad in order to get good.” –Paula Scher “Creativity is nothing but the way to solve new problems.” Diana Santos, Product Strategist and Manager at Intelia “Make it simple, but significant.” –Don Draper “Design can be art. Design can be simple. That’s why it’s so complicated.” –Paul Rand “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” –Leonardo da Vinci “Look at usual things with unusual eyes.” –Vico Magistretti “Design is thinking made visual.” –Saul Bass “The best way to predict the future is to create it” –Abraham Lincoln “To design is much more than simply to assemble, to order, or even to edit: it is to add value and meaning, to illuminate, to simplify, to clarify, to modify, to dignify, to dramatize, to persuade, and perhaps even to amuse. To design is to transform prose into poetry.” –Paul Rand “Good design is obvious. Great design is transparent.” –Joe Sparano “The goal of a designer is to listen, observe, understand, sympathize, empathize, synthesize, and glean insights that enable him or her to ‘make the invisible visible.’ – Hillman Curtis
Lesson A. The Сoncept of Design Before you read talk on the following What is design according to designers? What is the concept of design? What is the synonym of design? Reading and Vocabulary 1) design, v, n – сконструировать; рисовать; изображать; нарисовать; изобразить; делать эскизы (костюмов и т. п.); сделать эскиз;
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разрабатывать; схема; образец; конструирование; проектирование; 2) interaction, n – диалог; обмен данными; взаимодействие; реакция; взаимовлияние 3) measurable, adj – поддающийся измерению; измеримый; заметный; ощутимый; не особенно большой; умеренный; поддающийся количественной оценке 4) convention, n – условные обозначения; условный знак 5) dimension, n – размеры; величина; протяжение; измерение; размер; размерность 6) adjustment, n – регулировка; пригонка; настройка 7) identity, n – тождественность; идентичность; тождество; подлинность; личность отличительные черты; особенности; 8) substantive, adj – самостоятельный; независимый; субстантивный; содержательный 9) approach, n, v – метод расчёта; подход; концепция; приниматься, браться за дело, подходить к решению 10) specification, n – технические характеристики; спецификация; уточнение; определение; характеристика 11) compose, v – создавать; задумать 1. Read the text. Then complete the table. Notion Key words design designing designer Design is the creation of a plan or convention for the construction of an object, system or measurable human interaction. Design has different connotations in different fields. In some cases, the direct construction of an object (as in pottery, engineering, management, coding, and graphic design) is also considered to use design thinking. Designing often necessitates considering the aesthetic, functional, economic, and sociopolitical dimensions of both the design object and design process. It may involve considerable research, thought, modeling, interactive adjustment, and re-design. Meanwhile, diverse kinds of objects may be designed, including clothing, graphical user interfaces, products, skyscrapers, corporate identities, business processes, and even methods or processes of designing. Thus “design” may be a substantive referring to a categorical abstraction of a created thing or things (the design of something), or a verb for the process of creation as is made clear by grammatical context. Another definition for design is “a roadmap or a strategic approach for someone to achieve a unique expectation. It defines the specifications, plans, parameters, costs, activities, processes and how and what to do within legal, political, social, environmental, safety and economic constraints in achieving that objective.” Here, a “specification” can be manifested as either a plan or a finished product, and “primitives” are the elements from which the design object is composed. The person designing is called a designer, which is also a term used for people who work professionally in one of the various design areas usually specifying which area is being dealt with (such as a textile designer, fashion designer, product designer, concept designer, web designer or interior designer). A designer’s sequence of activities is called a design process while the scientific study of design is called design science. Another definition of design is planning to manufacture an object, system, component or structure. Thus the word “design” can be used as a noun or a verb. In a broader sense, design is an applied art and engineering that integrates with technology. While the definition of design is fairly broad, design has a myriad of specifications that professionals utilize in their fields. Major examples of design are architectural blueprints, engineering drawings, business processes, circuit diagrams, and sewing patterns. 22
Vocabulary practice 1. Give Russian equivalents to the following words and word-combinations. 1) creation of convention 2) to use design thinking 3) considerable research 4) sewing patterns 5) substantial disagreement 6) amateur or professional 7) architectural blueprints 8) a designer’s sequence of activities 9) disagreement concerning 10) safety and economic constraints
2. Match the words with their synonyms. 1) 2) 3) 4) 5)
diverse activity pattern achieve utilize
a) b) c) d) e)
occupation put to use various specimen accomplish
3. Match the given words with definitions: 1) connotation
a)
2) dimension 3) process 4) abstraction
b) c) d)
5) element
e)
6) circuit
f)
7) blueprint
g)
a systematic series of mechanized or chemical operations that are performed in order to produce something. something which exists only as an idea. an essential or characteristic part of something. an idea or feeling which a word invokes for a person in addition to its literal or primary meaning. a measurable extent of a particular kind, such as length, breadth, depth, or height. something which acts as a plan, model, or template for others. a roughly circular line, route, or movement that starts and finishes at the same place.
Speaking 1. Present your ideas about design using the mind map. Designing
Designer Design
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Lesson B. Design and Designers Before you read talk on the following What is a clothes designer called? Do fashion designers actually make the clothes? What skills do you need to become a clothes designer? Reading and vocabulary 1. Read the text for general understanding. Pay attention to the words in bold.
A DESIGNER OF CLOTHES Some people may think that designing of clothes is sitting in a splendid office and drawing pretty pictures. But most people understand that designer's activity is a creative one, and a pretty hard work precedes the birth of an idea of the design. First of all the designer has to study the records of a ready-to-wear clothes, to know the designs that are no longer selling well – perhaps because they failed to strike the public fancy, perhaps because they have served their time and are no longer fashionable, or because they no longer serve the current way of life. These designs are replaced with new ideas, which are carefully planned to please the customer tastes. The designer gleans her ideas from a variety of sources. She attends fashion shows, art exhibitions, current movies, and she is an avid reader of fashion magazines. As a matter of fact the good designer must be a student of today's world and well-read in every subject because our way of life, our financial circumstances, the way we spend our leisure time, the art we currently prefer, and even home furniture and automobiles are reflected in our choice of clothing. The designer studies the trends of the ready-to-wear industry and market and follows the buying habit of the public sometimes mingling with the crowds in large department stores. The designer knows the new fabrics, how they affect design. She is a student of historic costume, for there is a close correlation between the history of a period and the clothing tastes of the public. The designer must have inherent good taste and a sense of fashion-rightness as well as the ability to predict customer desires several months in advance. So you see that designing is far more than sitting in a splendid office and drawing pretty pictures! 2. Read the text. Choose the correct answers 1) What is the text mostly about? A. education needed for a job od design B. skills and knowledge needed to be a designer C. the process of clothes designing 2) What DOES NOT refer to the designers activity? A. studying the records of a ready-to-wear clothes B. attending fashion shows, art exhibitions, current movies, reading fashion magazines C. sitting in a splendid office and drawing pretty pictures 3) According to the text a good designer must 24
A. be financially independent B. be a student of today's world and well-read in every subject C. be strike the public fancy 3. Find English equivalents for the following Russian words and word-combinations. 1) деятельность 2) творческий процесс 3) общественное воображение 4) черпать идеи 5) посещать показы мод 6) финансовые возможности 7) направления моды 8) следовать привычке 9) смешаться с толпой 10) прирожденный вкус
4. Match the words from the text with their definitions. 1) design 2) trend 3) desire 4) 5) 6) 7) 8)
activity market magazine taste idea
9) skill 10) style
a) gathering of people for buying and selling goods; place where they meet b) general tendency or direction c) drawing or outline from which somebody may be made; general arrangement or planning d) specific thing or things done; action; occupation e) wish for smth; want f) a plan or scheme formed in mind; g) the ability to do something well; experttness h) a particular way of speaking,painting,building or of carrying out a skilled action i) a publication containing articles,stories by various writers, issued at intervals j) one of the five senses; the sense by which the flavour of things is known
5. Match the words with their synonyms. 1) current 2) magazine 3) fabric 4) taste 5) ability 6) new ideas 7) inherent 8) effect
a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h)
possibility innovation present like smth sense cloth paper-covered periodical influence
6. Study the following groups of derivatives. Pay attention to the word- formation process. Make your own sentences. 1) finance-financial-financier 2) design-designate-desination-designedly-desiner 25
3) require-requirement-requisite 4) express-expressible-expression-expressive 5) origin-original-originality-originate-originator Watch and discuss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=367veujwj_Y Watch a video about Zachary Fernandez a fashion student where he describes the process of designing his . Kathmandu 2016 collection. Focus on the following 1. What was his assignment? 2. Stages of creating his collection 3. His traits of character Speaking Group work. Draw a portrait of an ideal designer. Discuss with your groupmates what features of character are necessary for self-realization.
Writing Write a short story, starting with.. I am a student at …. And I want to be a fashion designer….
Lesson C. Outstanding Designers Reading and vocabulary 1. Read the text about Giorgio Armani, an Italian fashion designer. Pay attention to the words in bold. Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani is an Italian fashion designer. He is known today for his clean, tailored lines. He formed his company, Armani, in 1975, and by 2001 was acclaimed as the most successful designer of Italian origin, with an annual turnover of $1.6 billion and a personal fortune of $8.1 billion as of 2017. He is credited with pioneering red-carpet fashion. Armani was born in the northern Italian town of Piacenza, where he was raised with his older brother Sergio and younger sister Rosanna by his mother Maria Raimondi and father Ugo Armani (an accountant for a transport company). While at secondary school at the Liceo Scientifico Respighi in Piacenza, Armani aspired to a career in medicine, particularly after reading A. J. Cronin's The Citadel. He enrolled in the Department of Medicine at the University of Milan, but after three years, in 1953, he left and joined the army. Due to his medical background, he was assigned to the Military Hospital in Verona, where he would attend shows at the Arena. He eventually decided to look for a different career path. After his stint in the armed forces, Armani found a job as a window dresser at La Rinascente, a department store in Milan in 1957. He went on to become a seller for the menswear department, in which capacity he gained valuable experience in the marketing aspect of the fashion industry. In the mid-1960s, Armani moved to the Nino Cerruti company, where he designed menswear. His skills were in demand, and for the next decade, while continuing to work for Cerutti, Armani also freelanced, contributing designs to as many as ten manufacturers at a time. In the late 1960s, Armani met Sergio Galeotti, an architectural draftsman, which marked the beginning of a 26
personal and professional relationship that lasted for many years. In 1973, Galeotti persuaded him to open a design office in Milan, at 37 Corso Venezia. This led to a period of extensive collaboration, during which Armani worked as a freelance designer for a number of fashion houses, including Allegri, Bagutta, Hilton, Sicons, Gibò, Montedoro, and Tendresse. The experience provided Armani with an opportunity to develop his own style in new ways. He was now ready to devote his energy to his own label, and on July 24, 1975 he founded Giorgio Armani S.p.A. in Milan, with his friend Galeotti. In October of that same year, he presented his first collection of men's ready-to-wear for Spring and Summer 1976 under his own name In 1979, after founding the Giorgio Armani Corporation, Armani began producing for the United States and introduced the Main line for men and women. The label became one of the leading names in international fashion with the introduction of several new product lines. In 1983 the designer modified his agreement with GFT. They began to produce both the Mani line for the United States and his high-end ready-to-wear line, rechristened Borgonuovo 21, after the address of the company's headquarters. During the late 1980s, despite Galeotti's death (1985), Armani continued to expand commercial horizons and licensing agreements. He opened Armani Japan and introduced a line of eyeglasses (1988), socks (1987), a gift collection (1989), and a new "basic" men's and women's line for America known as A/X Armani Exchange (1991). After the frenetic expansion of the 1990s (sportswear, watches, eyeglasses, cosmetics, home, and new accessories collections), 2000, the twenty-fifth anniversary of the brand, saw a flurry of investment activity, including stock sales and the acquisition of new manufacturing capacity intended to increase Armani's control over the quality and distribution of his products. Armani's men's and women's skiwear and ski casualwear line was developed in 1995. His 1991 project, A/X: Armani Exchange, represented Armani's attempt to break into the American mass market, offering lower prices for the relaxed chic clothes.In 1996 his long-time friend Eric Clapton composed some songs for Armani's fashion shows and has since dressed in Armani. Later that year Clapton opened two Emporio Armani stores in New York City. In 1998 Armani hosted a party for Clapton Crossroads guitar auction. He also prepared to break into the Chinese market by opening up his first store in that country in 1998. The small shop in Beijing was followed by a flagship store in Shanghai in 2004 and plans for 40 by 2011. In 2000, Giorgio Armani SpA was introducing new lines of cosmetics and home furnishings, and expanding its line of accessories. At the same time, the Guggenheim Museum in New York hosted an exhibition of Armani's work – a first for a living designer – with average attendance of 29,000 a week. In 2008, Armani designed the bullfighting costume, called the "Goyesco", worn by Spanish bullfighter Cayetano Rivera Ordóñez at the "Corrida Goyesca" in Ronda, Spain. They have also collaborated on several fashion shows and other events. As of 2009, Armani has a retail network of 60 Giorgio Armani boutiques, 11 Collezioni, 122 Emporio Armani, 94 A/X Armani exchange, 1 Giorgio Armani Accessori, and 13 Armani Junior stores spread over 37 different countries. Armani was the first designer to ban models with a body mass index (BMI) under 18, after model Ana Carolina Reston starved herself to death due to anorexia nervosa. Armani broadcast his collection live on the Internet, the first in the world of haute couture, on 24 January 2007. The Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2007 fashion show was broadcast via MSN and Cingular cellular phones. After LG teamed with Prada to introduce the LG Prada phone, Samsung joined Armani to design the Giorgio Armani phone. Armani has designed many stage outfits for pop superstar Lady Gaga, including those worn on her record breaking Monster Ball Tour and Born This Way Ball Tour. He has also designed for many high-profile award shows, such as the 52nd Grammy Awards and the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards.
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Giorgio Armani and Emaar Properties PJSC signed an agreement in 2005 for Emaar Properties PJSC to build and operate at least seven luxury hotels and three vacation resorts under the Giorgio Armani name. Giorgio Armani would be responsible for overseeing all aspects of the interior design and style of the hotels.The Armani Hotel was opened in Burj Khalifa on April 27, 2010, comprising the bottom 39 floors of the supertall skyscraper in Dubai, United Arab Emirates; it has 160 guest rooms and suites, and 144 residences. Giorgio Armani is also designing the interiors of the Armani Residences, also within the skyscraper, and its specially designed line of products from the Armani/Casa home furnishings collection.
2. Read the text. Fill in the Profile. Giorgio Armani Profile Early years Design career Innovation Armani Hotel Collection Project work Surf the Internet to learn about the most influential designers of all time. Use language as May be you are wondering why/what What do we already know about…..? Why do you think he’s been so successful? What you probably don’t /didn’t know is that… And were you aware that….? I’m sure you’ll agree that…. I hope you’ll learn a few things about
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Unit 4. Fashion Lead-in What is fashion? Do you think people should always follow fashion? Do you dress to fashion? What is your attitude to“slaves to fashion’? Make comments. Give examples. Would you agree that to be fashionable means to follow certain social rules? What is in fashion this season? Read the following quotations. Translate into Russian. Make comments. “Fashion is an expression of faith. In this world of ours, that seeks to give away its secrets one by one, that feeds on false confidences and fabricated revelations, it is the very incarnation of mystery, and the best proof of the spell it casts is that, now more than ever, it is the topic on everyone’s lips”. (Christian Dior) “If you are not in fashion, you are nobody.” (Lord Chesterfield) “Elegance is a question of personality, more than one's clothing”. (Jean-Paul Gaultier) “Style is primarily a matter of instinct”. (Bill Blass) “ I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men”.(Marlene Dietrich) “Women dress alike all over the world: they dress to be annoying to other women”. (Elsa Schiaparelli)
Lesson A. What is Fashion Reading and vocabulary 1. adornment, n – украшение 2. wear, v, n – быть одетым (во что-либо); носить (одежду и т. п.); ношение (одежды); носка (одежды); износ; изнашивание; носкость 3. sign, n,v – знак; символ; примета; отмечать; помечать; ставить знак, подписываться 4. comprehension, n – понимание; разумение; постижение; понятливость 5. perceive, v – понимать; осознавать; постигать; различать 6. ugliness, n – уродство; безобразие; некрасивая внешность 7. garb, n – наряд; одеяние; костюм; стиль одежды 8. dress style – стиль одежды 1. Skim the text for the general idea. Choose the headings (A – E) to the paragraphs (I –VII). Think of the heading to the text. A. Fashion as a barometer of cultural changes B. Fashion as a sign system C. Roles D. What is fashion? E. The need for tribal belonging 29
(I)________ For centuries individuals or societies have used clothes and other body adornment as a form of nonverbal communication to indicate occupation, rank, gender, sexual availability, locality, class, wealth and group affiliation. Fashion is a form of free speech. It not only embraces clothing, but also accessories, jewellery, hairstyles, beauty and body art. What we wear and how and when we wear it, provides others with shorthand to subtly read the surface of a social situation. (II) ___________Fashion is a language of signs, symbols and iconography that non-verbally communicate meanings about individuals and groups. Fashion in all its forms from a tattoed and pierced navel, to the newest hairstyle, is the best form of iconography we have to express individual identity. It enables us to make ourselves understood with rapid comprehension by the onlooker. (III)___________ How we perceive the beauty or ugliness of our bodies is dependant on cultural attitudes to physiognomy. The accepted beautiful female from Rubens paintings is subliminally undesirable nowadays, if we are to be thought beautiful in a way that the majority accepts in the 21st century. Today an inability to refashion and reshape our bodies whilst constantly monitoring the cultural ideal leaves us failing the fashion test. Those that pass the fashion test invariably spend their lives absorbed in a circle of diet, exercise, cosmetic surgery and other regimes. This includes the rigors of shopping in search of the ultimate garb. (IV)______________ Our reluctance to give ourselves a regular makeover through diet, exercise, and consistently conscious use of specific dress styles signifies that we have the personality flaws of a weak willed human. We become in the eyes of fashion aficionados somewhat inadequate and imperfect in the fashion stakes. Thus we strive to keep a culturally satisfying appearance so that we feel better, whereas in fact we are striving to stay in the tribe, whatever type of tribe that may be. Group affiliation is our prime concern with regard to fashion. As long as some group similarity is identified within the group, our personal fashion whether current or dated can belong to any tribe. It is the sense of belonging marked by how we fashion ourselves that gives us the tribal connection. (VII)______________ An innate characteristic of human beings is the desire to strive for differentiation. The removal of Sumptuary Laws and rigid dress codes has enabled the individual to use fashion as a means to identify clearly the many different roles that a person plays in any one day. Sociologists borrowed the word 'role' from the theatre because, like actors individuals play many parts and each part has to be learnt. Roles are continually learned and rehearsed and relearned. They are also shared, because like the actors on a stage, fluid interaction only occurs if all the performers know the behaviour expected. 2. Read the text once again . Then choose the correct answers 1) What is the main idea of the text? A. to demonstrate how fashion is connected with personality inner world, communication, behavior, culture B. to define what fashion is C. how to pass fashion test, refashion and reshape the body 2) Which of the following does NOT refer to fashion A. form of free speech embracing clothing, but also accessories, jewellery, hairstyles, beauty and body art B. shopping in search of the ultimate garb C. a language of signs, symbols and iconography that non-verbally communicate meanings about individuals and groups 3) How does a person perceive the beauty or ugliness of the body? A. depending on cultural attitudes to physiognomy B. depending on a personal taste C. depending on a person’s mood 30
3. Match the English word combinations with their Russian equivalents. 1) be absorbed in something 2) group affiliation 3)strive for differentiation 4) onlooker 5) identify different roles 6) language of signs 7) perceive the beauty 8) nonverbal communication 9) weak willed 10)shorthand
a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j)
воспринимать красоту определять различные роли объединение в группу слабовольный язык знаков быть погруженным во что-либо стремиться к индивидуальному образу условное обозначение невербальное общение наблюдатель
4. Make up word-combinations , study the text 1) group a) beauty 2) nonverbal b) similarity 3) to stay c) characteristic 4) to indicate d) fashion tests 5) to perceive e) differentiation 6) to identify f) roles 7) to strive for g) communication 8) to pass h) occupation 9) innate i) in the tribe 5. Form different parts of speech. Pay attention to word-formation. Use any five of them to make up sentences. Verb comprehend
Noun comprehension individual
Adjective comprehensive/comprehensible communicative
identify 6. Match the words and word combinations (1-10) to their synonyms (a-g). In the text find the sentences with these words/word combinations and change them using the synonyms: 1) decoration a) in the eyes of fashion 2) strict clothing manner b) ultimate garb 3) to have a sense of a crowd c) to keep a culturally satisfying appearance 4) born feature d) adornment 5) to look right e) innate characteristic 6) a complete look f) rigid dress code 7) in the frames of vogue g) to stay in the tribe
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Writing Read the text once again and make up a mind map.
Fashion
Speaking Discuss the following. 1) What is the main purpose of clothes? 2) Does fashion repeat its history during the time? 3) Is there any relation between a personality and clothes? Does following the fashion encourage the loss of individuality? 4) Do you believe fashion helps us to play different roles? 5) What are the main tendencies of today’s fashion?
Lesson B. Fashion History Before you read the text, talk about these questions. What do you know about fashion history? Can you name any periods? Did you know that it was considered unfashionable for Venetian women, during the renaissance to have anything but silvery blond hair? Reading and vocabulary 1. Skim the text, paying attention to the words in bold. FASHION HISTORY (I)The habit of people continually changing the style of clothing worn, which is now worldwide, at least among urban populations, is generally held by historians to be a distinctively Western one. At other periods in Ancient Rome and other cultures changes in costume occurred, often at times of economic or social change, but then a long period without large changes followed. The beginnings of the habit in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in styles can be fairly clearly 32
dated to the middle of the 14th century, to which historians including James Laver and Fernand Braudel date the start of Western fashion in clothing. The most dramatic manifestation was a sudden drastic shortening and tightening of the male over-garment, from calf-length to barely covering the buttocks, sometimes accompanied with stuffing on the chest to look bigger. This created the distinctive Western male outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers which is still with us today. (II)The pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women's fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex and changing. Art historians are therefore able to use fashion in dating images with increasing confidence and precision, often within five years in the case of 15th century images. Initially changes in fashion led to a fragmentation of what had previously been very similar styles of dressing across the upper classes of Europe, and the development of distinctive national styles, which remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, finally those from Ancien Régime in France. Though fashion was always led by the rich, the increasing affluence of early modern Europe led to the bourgeoisie and even peasants following trends at a distance sometimes uncomfortably close for the elites – a factor Braudel regards as one of the main motors of changing fashion. (III)The fashions of the West are generally unparalleled either in antiquity or in the other great civilizations of the world. Early Western travellers, whether to Persia, Turkey, Japan or China frequently remark on the absence of changes in fashion there, and observers from these other cultures comment on the unseemly pace of Western fashion, which many felt suggested an instability and lack of order in Western culture. (IV)Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, and at this period national differences were at their most pronounced. The "Spanish style" of the end of the century began the move back to synchronicity among upper-class Europeans, and after a struggle in the mid 17th century, French styles decisively took over leadership, a process completed in the 18th century. (V)Though colors and patterns of textiles changed from year to year, the cut of a gentleman's coat and the length of his waistcoat, or the pattern to which a lady's dress was cut changed more slowly. Men's fashions largely derived from military models, and changes in a European male silhouette are galvanized in theatres of European war, where gentleman officers had opportunities to make notes of foreign styles: an example is the "Steinkirk" cravat or necktie. (VI)The pace of change picked up in the 1780s with the increased publication of French engravings that showed the latest Paris styles; though there had been distribution of dressed dolls from France as patterns since the 16th century, and Abraham Bosse had produced engravings of fashion from the 1620s. By 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike (or thought they were): local variation became first a sign of provincial culture, and then a badge of the conservative peasant. (VII) Although tailors and dressmakers were no doubt responsible for many innovations before, and the textile industry certainly led many trends, the history of fashion design is normally taken to date from 1858, when the English-born Charles Frederick Worth opened the first true haute couture house in Paris. Since then the professional designer has become a progressively more dominant figure, despite the origins of many fashions in street fashion. (VIII) Modern Westerners have a wide choice available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect that person's personality or likes. When people who have cultural status start to wear new or different clothes a fashion trend may start. People who like or respect them may start to wear clothes of a similar style. (IX) Fashions may vary significantly within a society according to age, social class, generation, occupation sexual orientation, and geography as well as over time. If, for example, an older person dresses according to the fashion of young people, he or she may look ridiculous in the eyes of both 33
young and older people. The terms "fashionista" or "fashion victim" refer to someone who slavishly follows the current fashions One can regard the system of sporting various fashions as a fashion language incorporating various fashion statements using a grammar of fashion. 2. Read the text once again and mark the statements as true (T) or false (F). 1) Historians argue whether the style of clothing worn nowadays is Western one 2) Economic and social changes make alterations in fashion especially in Western countries. 3) Some items of clothing have been used in everyday wear since medieval times. 4) The increasing affluence of early modern Europe led to the fact that not only bourgeoisie and even peasants followed the trends. The fashions of the West were changing more rapidly than in the East. 5) Men's fashions are less open to changes. 6) The professional designer has become a progressively more dominant figure when haute couture house was opened in Paris. 7) People having cultural status may influence the development of a new fashion trend. 3. Find the topical sentence in each paragraph. Define the main idea. Make a plan of the text. Retell the text using the plan. Speaking Read and discuss Read the blog where people are sharing ideas about fashion https://www.quora.com/What-do-you-think-of-fashion 1) Shweta Singh, studies at Institute of Management Studies, Ghaziabad (2021) Answered Apr 23, 2017 I think Fashion is about expressing your identity, showing someone who you are through your fashion choices and using your clothes to tell someone something about you. It is about you. Fashion is something we deal with everyday. Even people who say they don’t care what they wear choose clothes every morning that say a lot about them and how they feel that day. One certain thing in the fashion world is change. “The apparel oft proclaims the man.” -Shakespeare, Hamlet Fashion is a language which tells a story about the person who wears it. Clothes create a wordless means of communication that w... (more) 2) Hillary Marek, Owner at Hillary's of Houston (2015-present) Answered May 1, 2017 I think about fashion literally every waking moment and a good percentage of time dreaming about it when I sleep. We were watching a horror movie the other day and at a particularly gruesome point I couldn't help thinking those Manolo Blahnik's are canvas she's never going to get the blood out of them. And while everyone else was covering their eyes squirming in their seats or watching with morbid fascination here I was getting so annoyed at the fact that this killer didn't take off her shoes first. My son is seven and the other day I took him to the mall for some school clothes. I promised... (more) 34
3) Marek Cieslik, PhD from Miskatonic University (1998) Answered Jun 15, 2017 ashion changes over time as things go into & out of fashion, clothes get worn out, people get bored of always looking the same, they change over time, lose weight, gain weight, get older, change jobs, etc., all of which have an effect on that, those who follow fashion without consideration if it suits them or not, but have no personal sense of style are like sheep with no imagination, those who have strong sense of personal style yet don't particularly follow fashion are admirable eccentrics. Sometimes fashion is great, sometimes it isn't. Fashion designers are very imaginative. 1.1k views · View Upvoters
2. Discuss what fashion means to you. Extra practice Fashion idioms and expressions Study the following idioms, think of the corresponding sayings in your native language. Act out situations. To have a sense of style – to know what looks good on you and have your own style and taste. To be old-fashioned – to wear clothes or do something that is no longer in style. Strike a pose – to take a particular posture in order to impress. You can strike a pose for the camera. To be dressed to kill – wear something with an intention to stand out/impress people and be noticed. To have an eye for fashion – to have a good taste and know what is “in fashion” and what is not. Dress for the occasion – to wear something in the right place at the right time. Not to wear short skirt to church or bathing suit to a wedding (unless you are in Miami). To be well dressed – attired in clothing that is of fashionable, expensive and properly fitted. https://www.elc.edu/fashion-idioms-english-vocabulary/ Writing. Write a short essay “All about fashion” Project work. Role play “What is in fashion” Split into groups. Study fashion websites. Analyze what in trend is. Student A. Journalist. Interviews students about their preferences Student B. Student C.
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PART II. TECHNOLOGY OF ARTISTIC MATERIAL PROCESSING Unit 1. Textile And Fabrics Lead-in
What is textile? What is fabric? What countries are famous textile-makers? What kind of fabrics do you prefer in your clothes?
Reading and vocabulary scale of production – масштаб производства manufacturing techniques – технология производства plain weave – гладкое переплетение weave n, v – узор (ткани); выработка; переплетение нитей в ткани; ткаться, ткать; ткать плести; вплетать; twill, n – переплетение по диагонали; саржа (ткань); пике (ткань); кретон (ткань); саржевое переплетение 7. satin, n – шёлковый основный атлас; основовязаное полотно; атлас (ткань); основонастилочный сатин 8. composite material – композиционный материал КМ 9. fibre, n – элементарная нить; 'А' синтетическое волокно орлон, волокно 10. spun, n – спряденный из штапельного волокна; кручёный 11. thread, n – нитка; нить 12. ply, v – скручивать 13. hair, n – волос, шерсть 14. camelids, n – верблюдовые 15. string, n, v – верёвка; бечёвка; тесёмка; завязка; вереница; нитка; пронизывать; пронизываться; протягиваться; протянуть; протянуться; прошнуровать 16. preservation, n – защита от старения; предохранение от старения; стабилизация 17. carpeting, n – ковровая дорожка; ковровое изделие 18. upholster, v, n – обить; меблировать; вешать портьеры; обивание; обивка; обойка 19. furnishing, n – убранство; обстановка; оборудование; меблировка; домашние принадлежности; предметы одежды 20. strengthen, v – придавать жёсткость; повышать прочность; усиливать концентрацию 21. fibre glass – стекловолокно 22. cloth, n – материя; униформа; войлок; фетр; товар (текстиль) 23. performance requirements – требования к характеристикам; нормы и правила 24. coat, v – покрывать (краской и т. п.); крыть; облицовывать 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
1. Read the text for general understanding. Pay attention to the words in bold. The production of textiles is an important craft, whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. However, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. Incan Indians have been crafting quipus (or khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounting, although new evidence conducted by Harvard professor, Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections follow general preservation principles and practice. 36
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, cleaning devices, such as handkerchiefs; transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes; strengthening in composite materials such as fibre glass and industrial geotextiles, and smaller cloths are used in washing by "soaping up" the cloth and washing with it rather than using just soap.
Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "selfpowering nanosystems" using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements. Quipu – кипу (узелковое письмо у древних перуанцев) 2. Read the text, then mark the statements as true (T) or false (F). 1) Ancient Indians produced fibres from llamas and camels hair and from cottons. 2) The production of textiles hasn’t been changed since ancient time. 3) Textiles are used both for industrial and household purposes. 4) Technical textiles include textile structures for a variety of applications. 5) Some modern fabrics proved to be “self-powering nanosystems”. 6) 3. Read the sentence pairs. Choose which word or phrase best fits each blank 1) assortment/household A. Textiles have an __________ of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers. B. In the _______ they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels 2) technical textiles / industrial purposes A. Textiles used for _________, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as B __________________ .
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3) fiberglass/ cloths A. __________is made of small glass fibers that are connected together to form a material. B. _____are used in washing by "soaping up" the cloth and washing with it rather than using just soap. 4. In the text find the English equivalents for the following Russian words and wordcombinations. ● масштабы производства ● ткасть/плести ● производственные технологии ● ремесло ● домашнее хозяйство ●покрытие ● прясть ● полотенце ● измениться ● разнообразный ● волокно ● носовой платок ● подбор ● сварщик ● драпировочные ткани ● пуленепробиваемый жилет Speaking Role play Group work/ You are designer students. Your project is to design a students’ backpack/ handbag /phone cover. Think of the design, materials you need, technology you will use. Present you project. Discuss. You may need language such as Suggestions When we want to suggest something in which we are to participate ourselves, we use one of the following forms: Let's... , Why don't we...? Why not...? What / How about ...ing? We could/might... – tentative I suppose we could / might...– more tentative I suggest (that)... + Present Subjunctive – a firmer suggestion, and more formal. e.g. I suggest that we change the timetable. I propose (that)... – even stronger and more formal. Used at meetings, official discussions, etc.
Lesson B. Textiles: Sources and Types Before you read talk on the following. What does the quality of clothes depend on? Could you name any factors? What types of fabrics are used in clothes making nowadays? What is their origin? What characteristics should they have? What requirements should they meet?
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Reading 1. You are going to read the text about the main sources of textiles. Read the text in detail, paying attention to the words in bold. (I) Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources: animal, plant, mineral, and synthetic. In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in deniers. Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier. Animal textiles are commonly made from hair or fur. (II) Wool refers to the hair of the domestic goat or sheep, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with an oil known as lanolin, which is waterproof and dirtproof. Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn that is spun from longer fibres that have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing. Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness. Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuсa wool, llama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets, and other warm coverings. Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500CE. (III) Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm. This is spun into a smooth, shiny fabric prized for its sleek texture. (IV) Grass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir (coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles, and sacking. Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok. Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper. Cotton, flax, jute, hemp and modal are all used in clothing. Piсa (pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fabrics such as cotton. (V) Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas. Seaweed is used in the production of textiles. A water-soluble fibre known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area. (VI) Tencel is a man-made fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a man-made silk equivalent and is a tough fabric which is often blended with other fabrics - cotton for example. (VII) Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting, and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets. Glass Fibre is used in the production of spacesuits, ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres. Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewelry. Hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire, used in construction.
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2. Scan the text. Find English equivalents of the following words. a) натуральное волокно, искусственное волокно, паутинка, холст (канва), денье, прядь, пряжа, гладкая текстура, тростник, конопля, веревка, бечевка (шнурок), крапива, лен, рами (китайская крапива), морская водоросль, растворимый в воде, огнестойкий, фольга, набивка, мех, плотно скрученный, тутовый шелкопряд, ткань из гребенной шерсти (камвольная ткань), материал (материя), балансовая древесина. б) расчесывать, покрывать слоем чего-либо, растворять, расходовать (употреблять), прясть (сучить). 3. Look up the meaning of the words in bold in the dictionary. Classify them into the following categories: Words denoting materials/fibers: canvas, wadmal… etc Words denoting characteristics: fine, waterproof …etc. 4. Read the text and complete the table. Textil
Origin
Qualities
Manufactured goods
wool
animal
Fine, thin
Warm clothing
e
5. Read the text again and answer the following questions. 1. What are textiles made from nowadays? 2. What were they made from in the past? 3. Animal textiles are made from hair or fur, aren’t they? 4. Why is wool coated with lanolin? 5. What types of wool are known for their softness? 6. Where are plant textiles used? 7. Are straw and bamboo mineral textiles? 8. Why is acetate used in silks, velvets and taffetas? 9. Are asbestos and basalt fibers mineral or plant textiles? Writing Make up the summary of the text.
Lesson C. Textiles. Manufacturing Process Before you read talk on the following. Have you even seen how fabrics and textiles are produced? What do you know about major production methods and techniques of textile industry? Reading 1. Scan the text and point out the basic methods and techniques used in textile production. Pay attention to the word in bold. Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanized. Knitting and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The two processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with 40
another loop, while crocheting never has more than one active loop on the needle. Braiding or plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making macrame. Interlocking threads make lace together independently, using a backing and any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine. Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile. Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool. Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dye), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached. In this process, the original colour of the textile is removed by chemicals or exposure to sunlight, turning the textile pale or white. Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the 19th century and early 20th century starching was commonly used to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles. Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free. More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi. 2. Make up sentences using word combinations from the box. 1) Weaving is a textile a) dyed ,with fabrics available in almost every production method colour. 2) Knitting and crocheting b) which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). 3) Braiding or plaiting c) pressing a mat of fibres together,and working them together until they become tangled . 4) Knotting d) making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi. 5) Textiles are often e) involves tying threads together and is used in making macrame. 6) Felting involves f) involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle or on a crocheting hook,together in a line. 41
7)
Bleaching is the process
8) Starching was commonly used 9) Recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements
g) to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles. h) involves twisting threads together into cloth. i) when the original colour of the textile is removed by chemicals or exposure to sunlight,turning the textile pale or white/
3. Answer the following questions. 1) 2) 3) 4) 5)
What are technical textiles? Did industrialization affrect the production of textiles? What is the common use of textiles in the household? What animal wool is used to make natural textiles? What are the main types of textiles?
Writing Write the summary of the text. Speaking 1. Group work. You want to know about textiles and fabrics, their types, characteristics, production methods and techniques. Ask questions to each other. Use language as I’d like to know … I’m interested in … Could you tell me …? Do you know …? Could you find out …? Could I ask …? Do you happen to know …?
To start with … For example … Also, For instance … Take for example ... To give you an idea … Look at the way …
Watch and discuss Watch the video describing how fabrics are made “Fabrics Construction”. Take notes (use the subtitles) . Share with your groupmates https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7P_xy8Jioo0 Extra practice You may follow the video Learning About Fabrics 1: The Who, What, and How https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B4tfduOQ7w
You may also follow “Printed Fabric Production” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuR2x0lorLg
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Unit 2. Ceramics Lead- in What is ceramics? Where can this material be used? What kind of ceramic things do you use in your household? o Look at the examples of ceramics products. Give some more examples of ceramics usage.
A Ming Dynasty porcelain vase dated to 1403–1424
Fire test furnace insulated with firebrick and ceramic fibre insulation.
A selection of silicon nitridecomponents.
Mid-16th century ceramic tilework on the Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Spherical Hanging Ornament, 1575– 1585, Ottoman period. Brooklyn Museum.
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Lesson A . Ceramics Lead-in What elements are in ceramics? What are the types of ceramics Reading and vocabulary 1. solid, a – плотный; сплошной; цельный; непрерывный; чистый; неразбавленный; крепкий; прочный; массивный 2. compound, n – сложный; составной; многократный; многовекторный 3. covalent, adj – гомеополярный 4. earthenware, n – глиняная посуда; гончарные изделия; керамика; глина; горшечный товар; изделия из глины; фаянсовая посуда 5. porcelain, n – фарфор; фарфоровое изделие; фарфоровая вещь 6. amorphous, adj – аморфный; бесформенный; хаотичный; беспорядочный; нечёткий; неясный; неопределенный 7. vitrified, adj – превратившийся в стекло или в стекловидное вещество; остекленевший; 8. stoneware, n – каменная керамика; керамические изделия; глиняная посуда; гончарные изделия 9. insulator, n – непроводник; изоляционный материал 10. ductility, n – тягучесть; вязкость (металла); эластичность; податливость; послушность; послушание 11. glaze, n – лак; глянец; лессировка; слой льда; глазированная посуда; мурава (стекловидное защитно-декоративное покрытие на керамике, закрепляемое обжигом); 12. porosity, n – с пористой структурой; поровость 13. conductivity, n – электропроводность; проводимость; коэффициент проводимости; 14. identifiable, adj – поддающийся учёту; идентифицируемый; опознаваемый; поддающийся опознанию; 15. melting, n – плавление; плавка; таяние; распускание; смягчение; проплав
1. Read the text. Then choose the correct answers. A ceramic is a solid material comprising an inorganic compound of metal, nonmetal or metalloid atoms primarily held in ionic and covalent bonds. Common examples are earthenware, porcelain, and brick. The crystallinity of ceramic materials ranges from highly oriented to semi-crystalline, vitrified, and often completely amorphous (e.g., glasses). Most often, fired ceramics are either vitrified or semi-vitrified as is the case with earthenware, stoneware, and porcelain. Varying crystallinity and electron consumption in the ionic and covalent bonds cause most ceramic materials to be good thermal and electrical insulators (extensively researched in ceramic engineering). With such a large range of possible options for the composition/structure of a ceramic (e.g. nearly all of the elements, nearly all types of bonding, and all levels of crystallinity), the breadth of the subject is vast, and identifiable attributes (e.g. hardness, toughness, electrical conductivity, etc.) are hard to specify for the group as a whole. General properties such as high melting temperature, high hardness, poor conductivity, high moduli of elasticity, chemical resistance and low ductility are the norm, with known exceptions to each of these rules (e.g. piezoelectric ceramics, glass transition temperature, superconductive ceramics, etc.). Many composites, such as fiberglass and carbon fiber, while containing ceramic materials, are not considered to be part of the ceramic family. 44
The earliest ceramics made by humans were pottery objects (i.e. pots or vessels) or figurines made from clay, either by itself or mixed with other materials like silica, hardened, sintered, in fire. Later ceramics were glazed and fired to create smooth, colored surfaces, decreasing porosity through the use of glassy, amorphous ceramic coatings on top of the crystalline ceramic substrates. Ceramics now include domestic, industrial and building products, as well as a wide range of ceramic art. In the 20th century, new ceramic materials were developed for use in advanced ceramic engineering, such as in semiconductors. The word "ceramic" comes from the Greek word κεραμικός (keramikos), "of pottery" or "for pottery",from κέραμος (keramos), "potter's clay, tile, pottery". The earliest known mention of the root "ceram-" is the Mycenaean Greek ke-ra-me-we, "workers of ceramics", written in Linear B syllabic script. The word "ceramic" may be used as an adjective to describe a material, product or process, or it may be used as a noun, either singular, or, more commonly, as the plural noun "ceramics". 1) The purpose of the text is A. to describe how pottery objects were made by humans B. to give general understanding of what ceramics is, the origin of the word, composition, main qualities, sphere of application C. to tell about new ceramic materials were developed for use in advanced ceramic engineering 2) Which of the following does not refer to ceramics A. good thermal and electrical insulators B. high electrical conductivity C. crystallinity 3) The word “ceramic” A. is of Greek origin B. is of Latin origin C. is of Roman origin 2. Give Russian equivalents. 1) an inorganic compound of metal 2) amorphous ceramic coatings 3) high moduli of elasticity 4) low ductility 5) decrease porosity 6) electrical insulators 7) stoneware 8) a wide range of ceramic art 9) a pottery object 10) hardness, toughness 3. Find synonyms to the following words, using the text. 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7)
common range vitrify composite amorphous melt fibre
a) yarn b) textureless c) combined d) dissolve e) glaze f) scope g) general
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4. Replace the words in brackets with a word from the vocabulary of the text. 1) The (distance or measurement from side to side of something; width) of programming is such that corporate evaluations should be undertaken. 2) These confer durability, (ability of an object or material to resume its normal shape after being stretched or compressed; stretchiness) and solvent resistance. 3) Water quality is characterized by high alkalinity and elevated carbonate and magnesium (the quality or condition of being hard). 4) The construction materials were quite simple – granite fragments and (a stiff, sticky finegrained earth that can be moulded when wet, and is dried and baked to make bricks, pottery, and ceramics). 5) Different(the outside part or uppermost layer of something) treatments may fall within the same design types. 5. Match the words with the definitions. 1) ceramics a) pots, dishes, and other articles made of fired clay. 2) fiberglass b) the refusal to accept or comply with something. 3) conductivity c) the art of making ceramic articles 4) resistance d) a textile fabric made from woven glass filaments 5) pottery e) systematic series of mechanized or chemical operations that are performed in order to produce something 6) glaze f) the degree to which a specified material conducts electricity, calculated as the ratio of the current density in the material to the electric field which causes the flow of current. 7) process g) g. enclose or cover with glass 6. Study the following groups of derivatives. Pay attention to the word- formation process. Make up sentences: 1) crystal-crystalline-crystallite-crystallize-crystallization-crycryatallinity; 2) broad-broaden-broadly-breadth; 3) except-excepting-exception-exceptional- exceptionable-exceptionally; 4) vitrify-vitrification-vitreous; 5) ductile-ductility; 6) compose-composed-composing-composite – composition; Speaking Discuss the following: 1. What does ceramics include? 2. What were the earliest ceramic objects? 3. What are the general properties of ceramics as a material? 4. How can smooth surfaces be created?
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Lesson B. Ceramic Processing Before you read talk on the following What are the stages in producing ceramics? What is the purpose of ceramic processing? What is used to make ceramic? Reading and vocabulary 1. Read the text paying attention to the words in bold. Look them up in the dictionary. Ceramic processing is used to produce commercial products that are very diverse in size, shape, detail, complexity, and material composition, structure, and cost. The purpose of ceramics processing to an applied science is the natural result of an increasing ability to refine, develop, and characterize ceramic materials. Ceramics are typically produced by the application of heat upon processed clays and other natural raw materials to form a rigid product. Ceramic products that use naturally occurring rocks and minerals as a starting material must undergo special processing in order to control purity, particle size, particle size distribution and heterogeneity. These attributes play a big role in the final properties of the finished ceramic. Chemically prepared powders are also used as starting materials for some ceramic products. These synthetic materials can be controlled to produce powders with precise chemical compositions and particle size. The next step is to form the ceramic particles into a desired shape. This is accomplished by the addition of water and/or additives such as binders, followed by a shape forming process. Some of the most common forming methods for ceramics include extrusion, slip casting, pressing, tape casting and injection molding. After the particles are formed, these "green" ceramics undergo a heat-treatment (called firing or sintering) to produce a rigid, finished product. Some ceramic products such as electrical insulators, dinnerware and tile may then undergo a glazing process. Some ceramics for advanced applications may undergo a machining and/or polishing step in order meet specific engineering design criteria. Since the Ceramics Industry is so large and covers a wide range of products from traditional ceramics such as pottery and chinaware to a more complicated technical ceramics for chemical, mechanical or thermal applications. Step №1: Milling and Raw Material Procurement – the raw materials used in the process are milled materials typically found in mining sites that have been reduced from a large size to smaller sizes or even in some cases, pulverized depending upon the end product. Step №2: Sizing –During this step in the processing sequence, the materials that have undergone the milling and procurement process must be sized to separate desirable material from non-usable. By controlling the particle size, the result will give you proper bonding and a smooth surface on the finished product. Multiple mesh sizes are available. Screen deck sizes vary depending on slurry thickness and the percentage of the solids present in the mix. Step №3: Batching – This part of the process can also be known as”blending” which calculates amounts, weighing and initial blended of the raw materials. For consistent material flow into a pub mill hopper, Vibratory Feeders can be applied in the process. If you have a light load capacity and a dusty hazardous environment, CF-A Air Powered Feeders are a great option. 47
Step №4: Mixing – To obtain a more chemically and physically homogeneous material prior to forming, the constituents of the ceramic powder is combined using the method of mixing. Most often, pug mills are the preferred piece of machinery used in this step of the process when dealing with dry mixes Step №5: Forming – For this step, the materials such as dry powders, pastes or slurries are consolidated and molded to produce a cohesive body of whatever end product is desired. In the particular case of dry forming, vibratory compaction can be used to achieve the desired shape. Step №6: Drying – The formed materials hold water and binder in its mix that can in turn cause shrinkage, warping or distortion of the product. Generally convection drying is the most commonly used method in which heated air is circulated around the ceramic piece that alleviates the risk of such imperfections in the final product. Step№7: Glazing – Referring back to traditional ceramics, this step is added to the process prior to firing. Typically, the glaze consists of oxides that give the product the desired finish look. The raw materials are ground in a ball mill or attrition mill. The glaze can be applied using the spraying or dipping methods. Step №8: Firing – Also known as sintering or densification, the ceramics pass through a controlled heat process where the oxides are consolidated into a dense, cohesive body made up of uniform grain. 2. Match the English words and word-combinations on the left to their equivalents on the right. 1) smooth surface 2) glazing process 3) batching 4) undergo special processing 5) a cohesive body 6) cause shrinkage 7) Milling 8) physically homogeneous 9) alleviate 10) dipping methods
a)подвергаться специальной обработке b)целостный комплекс c) спровоцировать сжатие d) смягчать, уменьшить e) ровная поверхность f) физически однородный g)метод погружения h) дозирование; комплектация i) лакировка j) измельчение
3. Read the text and fill in the table N
Process
Key words
4. Fill in the correct words from the list below. (processing, methods, shape, particles, molding) 1) In the particular case of dry forming, vibratory compaction can be used to achieve the desired …... 2) Some of the most common forming ……. for ceramics include extrusion, slip casting, pressing, tape casting and injection molding. 48
3) The next step is to form the ceramic….. into a desired shape. 4) The purpose of ceramics….. to an applied science is the natural result of an increasing ability to refine, develop, and characterize ceramic materials. 5) Vacuum ….. is used to make large composite parts with a one-sided tool and a vacuum bag to form the component. 5. Match the processing methods with their descriptions. Batching Batching n Milling and Raw Material Procurement
Forming
Sizing
Batching
Mixing
Drying
Glazing
Firing
mold, cohesive body, desired shape sintering, heat process, cohesive body raw materials, pulverize, procument amount, blended, raw material shrinkage, warping, heated air particle size, bonding, smooth surface oxides, desired finish look, dipping methods Role play “At the Ceramic Workshop” A group of students is visiting the ceramic workshop to be acquainted with ceramic processing. An engineer describes ceramics processing. Students ask questions. Act out the situation.
Lesson C. Surface Treatments Before you read talk on the following Do you know any ceramic processing methods? Have you ever seen how ceramics was processed? Reading and vocabulary 1. Scan the text and point out the ceramics processing methods. Pay attention to the words in bold. Look them up in the dictionary. China painting, or porcelain painting is the decoration of glazed porcelain objects such as plates, bowls, vases or statues. The body of the object may be hard-paste porcelain, developed in China in the 7th or 8th century or soft-paste porcelain (often bone china), and developed in 18th-century Europe. The broader term ceramic painting includes painted decoration on lead-glazed earthenware such as creamware or tin-glazed pottery such as maiolica or faience. Typically, the body is first fired in a kiln to convert it into a hard porous biscuit. Underglaze decoration may then be applied, followed by ceramic 49
glaze, which is fired so it bonds to the body. The glazed porcelain may then be decorated with overglaze painting and fired again at a lower temperature to bond the paint with the glaze. Decoration may be applied by brush or by stenciling, transfer printing, lithography and screenprinting. Slipware is a type of pottery identified by its primary decorating process where slip is placed onto the leather-hard clay body surface before firing by dipping, painting or splashing. Slip is an aqueous suspension of a clay body, which is a mixture of clays and other minerals such as quartz, feldspar and mica. A coating of white or coloured slip, known as an engobe, can be applied to the article to improve its appearance, to give a smoother surface to a rough body, mask an inferior colour or for decorative effect. Slips or engobes can also be applied by painting techniques, in isolation or in several layers and colours. Sgraffito involves scratching through a layer of coloured slip to reveal a different colour or the base body underneath. Several layers of slip and/or sgraffito can be done while the pot is still in an unfired state. One colour of slip can be fired, before a second is applied, and prior to the scratching or incising decoration. This is particularly useful if the base body is not of the desired colour or texture. In sharp contrast to the archaeological usage, in which the term terra sigillata refers to a whole class of pottery, in contemporary ceramic art, 'terra sigillata' describes only a watery refined slip used to facilitate the burnishing of raw clay surfaces and used to promote carbon smoke effects, in both primitive low temperature firing techniques and unglazed alternative western-style Raku firing techniques. Terra sigillata is also used as a brushable decorative colourant medium in higher temperature glazed ceramic techniques. 2. Read the text again and fill in the table Materials
Processing methods
3. Read the text and complete the sentences 1) ________________, or ____________________is the decoration of glazed porcelain objects such as plates, bowls, vases or statues 2) The broader term ceramic painting includes painted decoration ___________________ such as creamware ________________________________________ 3) The glazed porcelain may then be decorated _________and fired again at a lower temperature___________________________ 4) ________________is a type of pottery identified by its primary decorating process. 5) ___________________involves scratching through a layer of coloured slip to reveal a different colour or the base body underneath. 6) ___________describes only a watery refined slip used to facilitate the burnishing of raw clay surfaces. 50
Speaking Read the following conversations from Research Gate. Imagine you are a scientist or a ceramic processing expert. Act the situation out. Ceramic Processing – Science topic Questions related to Ceramic Processing Question: How can I evaluate the tensile strength of a ceramic disc? Answer: I know we can use three point bending test for tensile testing, for rectangular cross sections. Is there a different formula for discs? Question: How can I dissolve alumina? Answer: I have a solid residue which is supposed to be mainly composed by alumina. My goal is to dissolve it or at least weaken it. I have tried concentrated inorganic acids such as HF and HCl, organic acids such as glycolic and citric, bases such as NaOH, Na2CO3... All at 60-90ºC. Nothing seems to attack it. I appreciate any advice or recommendation. Question: Some materials in Ceramics Composites don't undergo sintering or thermal process, yet they are called Ceramics Composites. Don't you think it's wrong? Answer: Some materials are referred to as Ceramics Composites, and its noticed that either the matrix or the filler would not go through fire or any form of sintering process. Yet, such materials are called Ceramics Composites. Going by Ceramics definition, all materials much pass through fire. Don't you think its wrong to give such name to a material that hasn't pass through heat? Question: Where is shot peening of ceramics performed? Answer: By shot peening the surface of objects can be compressively stressed. This is normally done using metal targets, however the same process can also be applied on ceramics. Where is shot peening on ceramics performed ? Watch and discuss 1.Watch the video “Time Lapse: Ceramic Flower Relief Tiles” and ty to act out as the author https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-rCN5CQbak Extra practice 2. Watch the video”Victoria Ellis Carves Fine Bas Relief Figurative Clay Mural” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpfQ3jc0d24 Describe the steps how she produced her artwork
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Unit 4. Mosaic Lesson A. What is a Mosaic? Lead-in What is a mosaic used for? What are some famous mosaics? Where does the word mosaic come from?
Reading and vocabulary 1. tesserae, n – кубик (в мозаике); признак; пароль; плитка (мозаики); тессера (кубик из цветного мрамора, стекла) 2. assembling, n – сборка; установка; монтаж; ассемблирование; сборочное производство 3. glass, n – стекло, стеклянная посуда ; стакан; рюмка; парниковая рама; парник; зеркало; бинокль; подзорная труба; 4. pebble, n – голыш; галька; булыжник; линза из горного хрусталя; толстые линзы; веджвудский фаянс (разноцветный); горный хрусталь; горный хрусталь, употребляемый для очков; искусственная кожа 5. technique, n – техническое оснащение или оборудование; способ выполнения (чего-л.); технический приём; технические приёмы; техническое оснащение; владение специальными приемами; техническое мастерство 6. pattern, n – образец; пример; схема; диаграмма; выкройка; образчик; образ; рисунок 7. Renaissance – относящийся к эпохе возрождения 8. flourish, v – пышно расти; процветать; преуспевать; быть в периоде расцвета; жить и работать 9. beads, n – бусы; бисер; счёты 10. pictorial, n – иллюстрированное периодическое издание; относящийся к живописцу; связанный с живописью; иллюстрированный журнал 11. the sake of – ради 12. appropriateness, n – точность, приспособляемость 13. figurative, a – фигуральный; метафорический; образный; изобразительный; 14. outline, n – набросок; эскиз; план; конспект; схема; очерк; основные принципы; контур; канва; начертание; содержание 52
1. Read the text and mark the statements as true (T) or false (F) 1. Mosaic is created by setting closely small pieces of colored glass, stone etc . 2. "Pebble mosaics’ is made of flat, roughly square and small rounded pieces of stone. 3. Nowadays to make mosaics artists use materials other than stone such as shells, glass and beads . 4. Nowadays mosaics are not limited to professional artists, it has become a popular art and craft A mosaic is a piece of art or image made from the assembling of small pieces of colored glass, stone, or other materials. It is often used in decorative art or as interior decoration. Most mosaics are made of small, flat, roughly square, pieces of stone or glass of different colors, known as tesserae. Some, especially floor mosaics, are made of small rounded pieces of stone, and called "pebble mosaics". Mosaics have a long history, starting in Mesopotamia in the 3rd millennium BC. Pebble mosaics were made in Tiryns in Mycenean Greece; mosaics with patterns and pictures became widespread in classical times, both in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome. Early Christian basilicas from the 4th century onwards were decorated with wall and ceiling mosaics. Mosaic art flourished in the Byzantine Empire from the 6th to the 15th centuries; that tradition was adopted by the Norman Kingdom of Sicily in the 12th century, by the eastern-influenced Republic of Venice, and among the Rus in Ukraine. Mosaic fell out of fashion in the Renaissance, though artists like Raphael continued to practise the old technique. Mosaic was widely used on religious buildings and palaces in early Islamic art, including Islam's first great religious building, the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, and the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus. Mosaic went out of fashion in the Islamic world after the 8th century. Modern mosaics are made by professional artists, street artists, and as a popular craft. Many materials other than traditional stone and ceramic tesserae may be employed, including shells, glass and beads. Mosaics have developed into a popular craft and art, and are not limited to professionals. Today's artisans and crafters work with stone, ceramics, shells, art glass, mirror, beads, and even odd items like doll parts, pearls, or photographs. While ancient mosaics tended to be architectural, modern mosaics are found covering everything from park benches and flowerpots to guitars and bicycles. Items can be as small as an earring or as large as a house. Trencadís or pique assiette (a French term -“stolen from plate”) is a mosaic made from pieces of broken pottery, china, glass, buttons, figurines, or jewelry which are cemented onto a base to create a new surface. Almost any form can be used as a base, and any combination of pieces can be applied, restricted only by the individual creator's imagination
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2. Find synonyms to the following words, using the text. 1) tendency a) reimbursement 2) outline b) exceed 3) covering c) ancient 4) surpass d) current 5) contemporary e) trend 6) shift f) chart 7) antique g) swap 3. Replace the words in brackets with a word from the box. Renaissance, ancient, technique, painting, usage 1. There's (having a high value because of age and quality) a mirror box in your possession. 2. Michelangelo was one of the greatest figures of the (the revival of European art and literature under the influence of classical models in the 14th–16th centuries). 3. Perhaps I can adapt your (a way of carrying out a particular task, especially the execution or performance of an artistic work or a scientific procedure) and improve upon it 4. Evidently we've discovered its (practical use or purpose in design). 5. The (the action or skill of using paint, either in a picture or as decoration) was judged a fake. 4. Match the words with the definitions. 1) interior 2) quality
a) b)
3) mosaic 4) composition
c) d)
5) shell 6) exact
e) f)
7) brilliance
g)
general excellence of standard or level the hard protective outer case of a mollusc or crustacean. intense brightness of light situated on or relating to the inside of something; inner accurate or correct in all details. the nature of something's ingredients or constituents; the way in which a whole or mixture is made up. .a picture or pattern produced by arranging together small pieces of stone, tile, glass
5. Study the following groups of derivatives. Pay attention to the word-formation process. Make sentences. 1) appropriate-appropriation- appropriateness 2) color-colorable-coloration-colored-colorful-coloring 3) flat-flatly-flatness-flatten; 4) common-commonness-commoner-commonly 5) eliminate-elimination-eliminator Speaking 1) Where is mosaics used? 2) What are most mosaics made of? 3) What is tesserae? 4) Where and when were the first mosaics made? 5) Were mosaics in fashion in Islamic world? 54
6) Do mosaics and painting have much in common? 7) Do modern mosaic makers glean ideas from their predecessors?
Lesson B. Methods of Mosaic Production Before you read talk on the following What is mosaic technique? How is a mosaic made? What types of surfaces can the mosaic technique be applied to? Reading and vocabulary 1. Scan the text paying attention to the words in bold. Pick them up in the dictionary There exist three methods: direct, indirect and double indirect methods. The direct method of mosaic construction involves directly placing (gluing) the individual tesserae onto the supporting surface. This method is well suited to surfaces that have a three-dimensional quality, such as vases. This was used for the historic European wall and ceiling mosaics, following underdrawings of the main outlines on the wall below, which are often revealed again when the mosaic falls away. The direct method suits small projects that are transportable. Another advantage of the direct method is that the resulting mosaic in progressively visible, allowing for any adjustments to tile color or placement. The disadvantage of the direct method is that the artist must work directly at the chosen surface, which is often not practical for long periods, especially for large-scale projects. In addition, it is difficult to control the evenness of the finished surface. This is of particular importance when creating a functional surface such as a floor or a tabletop. A modern version of the direct method, sometimes called "double direct," is to work directly onto fiberglass mesh. The mosaic can then be constructed with the design visible on the surface and transported to its final location. Large work can be done in this way, with the mosaic being cut up for shipping and then reassembled for installation. It enables the artist to work in comfort in a studio rather than at the site of installation. The indirect method of applying tesserae is often used for very large projects, projects with repetitive elements or for areas needing site-specific shapes. Tiles are applied facedown to a backing paper using an adhesive, and later transferred onto walls, floors or craft projects. This method is most useful for extremely large projects as it gives the maker time to rework areas, allows the cementing of the tiles to the backing panel to be carried out quickly in one operation and helps ensure that the front surfaces of the mosaic tiles and mosaic pieces are flat and in the same plane on the front, even when using tiles and pieces of differing thicknesses. Mosaic murals, benches and tabletops are some of the items usually made using the indirect method, as it results in a smoother and more even surface. The double indirect method can be used when it is important to see the work during the creation process as it will appear when completed. The tesserae are placed face-up on a medium 55
(often adhesive-backed paper, sticky plastic or soft lime or putty) as it will appear when installed. When the mosaic is complete, a similar medium is placed atop it. The piece is then turned over, the original underlying material is carefully removed, and the piece is installed as in the indirect method described above. In comparison to the indirect method, this is a complex system to use and requires great skill on the part of the operator, to avoid damaging the work. Its greatest advantage lies in the possibility of the operator directly controlling the final result of the work, which is important e.g. when the human figure is involved. This method was created in 1989 by Maurizio Placuzzi and registered for industrial use (patent n. 0000222556) under the name of his company, Sicis International Srl, now Sicis The Art Mosaic Factory Srl. 2. Read the text once again, point out key words to describe methods construction and fill in the table Direct method
Indirect method
Double method
of mosaic
indirect
Writing Make up a summary of the text Lesson C Before you read talk on the following Who made the first mosaic? What is the history of mosaic art? 1. Skim the text and find answers to the questions. Explain the words and word-combinations in bold. Bronze age pebble mosaics have been found at Tiryns; mosaics of the 4th century BC are found in the Macedonian palace-city of Aegean, and the 4th-century BC mosaic of The Beauty of Durres discovered in Durres, Albania in 1916, is an early figural example; the Greek figural style was mostly formed in the 3rd century BC. Mythological subjects, or scenes of hunting or other pursuits of the wealthy, were popular as the centerpieces of a larger geometric design, with strongly emphasized borders. Pliny the Elder mentions the artist Sosus of Pergamon by name, describing his mosaics of the food left on a floor after a feast and of a group of doves drinking from a bowl. Both of these themes were widely copied. 56
Greek figural mosaics could have been copied or adapted paintings, a far more prestigious artform, and the Romans enthusiastically adopted the style so that large floor mosaics enriched the floors of Hellenistic villas and Roman dwellings from Britain to Dura-Europos. Most recorded names of Roman mosaic workers are Greek, suggesting they dominated high quality work across the empire; no doubt most ordinary craftsmen were slaves. Splendid mosaic floors are found in Roman villas across North Africa, in places such as Carthage, and can still be seen in the extensive collection in Bardo Museum in Tunis, Tunisia. There were two main techniques in Greco-Roman mosaic: opus vermiculatum used tiny tesserae, typically cubes of 4 millimeters or less, and was produced in workshops in relatively small panels which were transported to the site glued to some temporary support. The tiny tesserae allowed very fine detail, and an approach to the illusionism of painting. Often small panels called emblemata were inserted into walls or as the highlights of larger floor-mosaics in coarser work. The normal technique was opus tessellatum, using larger tesserae, which was laid on site. There was a distinct native Italian style using black on a white background, which was no doubt cheaper than fully coloured work. In Rome, Nero and his architects used mosaics to cover some surfaces of walls and ceilings in the Domus Aurea, built 64 AD, and wall mosaics are also found at Pompeii and neighbouring sites. However it seems that it was not until the Christian era that figural wall mosaics became a major form of artistic expression. The Roman church of Santa Costanza, which served as a mausoleum for one or more of the Imperial family, has both religious mosaic and decorative secular ceiling mosaics on a round vault, which probably represent the style of contemporary palace decoration. The mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina in Sicily are the largest collection of late Roman mosaics in situ in the world, and are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The large villa rustica, which was probably owned by Emperor Maximian, was built largely in the early 4th century. The mosaics were covered and protected for 700 years by a landslide that occurred in the 12th Century. The most important pieces are the Circus Scene, the 64m long Great Hunting Scene, the Little Hunt, the Labours of Hercules and the famous Bikini Girls, showing women undertaking a range of sporting activities in garments that resemble 20th Century bikinis. The peristyle, the imperial apartments and the thermal were also decorated with ornamental and mythological mosaics. Other important examples of Roman mosaic art in Sicily were unearthed on the Piazza Vittoria in Palermo where two houses were discovered. The most important scenes there depicted are an Orpheus mosaic, Alexander the Great's Hunt and the Four Seasons. In 1913 the Zliten mosaic, a Roman mosaic famous for its many scenes from gladiatorial contests, hunting and everyday life, was discovered in the Libyan town of Zliten. In 2000 archaeologists working in Leptis Magna, Libya, uncovered a 30 ft length of five colorful mosaics created during the 1st or 2nd century AD. The mosaics show a warrior in combat with a deer, four young men wrestling a wild bull to the ground, and a gladiator resting in a state of fatigue, staring at his slain opponent. The mosaics decorated the walls of a cold plunge pool in a bath house within a Roman villa. The gladiator mosaic is noted by scholars as one of the finest examples of mosaic art ever seen – a "masterpiece comparable in quality with the Alexander Mosaic in Pompeii."A specific genre of Roman mosaic was called asaroton (Greek for "unswept floor"). It depicted in trompe l'oeil style the feast leftovers on the floors of wealthy houses. 2. Answer the questions. 1) Where were early mosaic works applied? 2) What were the main themes of mosaic painting? 3) Were there many techniques of mosaic production of that time? 4) Where were mosaics depicting gladiatory contests and hunting discovered?
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Speaking Group work. You want to learn more about mosaics: history, characteristics, production methods and techniques. Ask questions to each other. Use suitable phrases from the list. I’d like to know… I’m interested in… Could you tell me…? Do you know….? Could you find out….? Could I ask…..? Do you happen to know….?
To start with…. For example…. Also,….. For instance….. Take for example… To give you an idea… Look at the way…..
Watch and discuss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-dvd14A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWDR9vRMqTQ 1) How to make mosaic art: how to arrange mosaic pieces into the design. 2) How to cut ceramic tile for mosaic.
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SUPPLEMENTARY READING Text 1. Russian Crafts and Age-Old Folk Crafts of Russia Blacksmithing The most ancient folk crafts in Rus was blacksmithing. Blacksmiths forged instruments of labor, tools (iron shovels, scythes, sickles, knives, saws, paddle locks) and weapons (swards, sables, arrow heads, chain armors and helmets). An independent business was “gold- smithing”, i.e. jewellery. Masters produced ingenious jewels– bronze amulets and jewelries: pendant, buckles, kolts and grivnas (ancient earrings and necklaces). Jewelry was made by granulating technique (an item was soldered with a pattern consisting of a great number of beads) and filigree (a pattern was applied with a fine wire soldered to a metal surface, then the spaces between cloisonné partitions were filled with colored enamel). Thus they produced highly-valued jewelry, made by plique-a-jour technique, typical Russian jewelries. The jeweler's technique of Russian masters was very complicated and their items enjoyed great demand in many countries of the world. Woodworking Pre-Christian Rus was already conversant in molding and embossing, ceramics and embroideries, mastered fine skills of enameling. Kievan artists mastered bone carving, niello, metal engraving, ornamented tiles, and glasswork.But Rus was more skilful in woodworking. Wooden buildings, izbas, (peasant's log huts) and mansions, gates and bridges, fortress walls, as well as boats and household utensils were generously decorated with carving, which formed their appearance. Art Painting From time immemorial Rus was famous for its china and art painting skills. Different schools and various directions of these folk crafts were even established, namely: Gzhel is chinaware with a stylish blue painting on a white background. Its name originated from the locality, near Moscow. Pottery has been existed there as early as in the XIV century. Gzhel ceramics is famous and popular all over the world.The Zhostovo floral painting (by name of a village near Moscow) is a decorative oil painting on metal trays with a subsequent lacquering: brightly colored flowers and fruits painted on a black background. The Palekh miniature painting (by name of a district center in Ivanovo region) is painting applied to varnished items, made of paper-maché. Jewel boxes and chests with popular, folk, literature, historical, and religious subjects were painted in bright colors on black background. The art of the Palekh miniature painting dates back to the XV century. Initially the Palekh artists were engaged in icon painting. The ancient painting technique is handed down from generation to generation. The Khokhloma painting is a hand painting on wood. This craft is more than 300 years old. Plates, saltcellar, chairs, shelves are painted with outlandish, flame-scarlet flowers. Their know-how is that they are lacquered two-three times and then tempered in ovens. As a result the laquer is getting yellow and wooden painted plates look like precious gilded dishware. Lubok, the cheap popular print is a Russian folk picture made by means of impression on paper, applied by a wooden printing block. Sold in the fairs as early as in the XVII century up to the beginning of the XX century, this popular print was considered one of the most mass arts of Rus. The subject of the popular prints was quite various: ranging from religious and moral ones from folk epos and fairy tales to historical and medical ones normally captioned by edifying or jocular texts, narrating about the customs and every-day life of that time, comprising a popular wisdom and humor.
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Text 2. From the history of batik Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth, or cloth made using this technique originated from Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting, or by printing the resist with a copper stamp called a cap. The applied wax resists dyes and therefore allows the artisan to colour selectively by soaking the cloth in one colour, removing the wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colours are desired.A tradition of making batik is found in various countries; the batik of Indonesia, however, may be the best-known. Indonesian batik made in the island of Java has a long history of acculturation, with diverse patterns influenced by a variety of cultures, and is the most developed in terms of pattern, technique, and the quality of workmanship. In October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Wax resist dyeing of fabric is an ancient art form. It already existed in Egypt in the 4th century BC, where it was used to wrap mummies; linen was soaked in wax, and scratched using a stylus. In Asia, the technique was practised in China during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), and in India and Japan during the Nara Period (645-794 AD). In Africa it was originally practised by the Yoruba tribe in Nigeria, Soninke and Wolof in Senegal. These African version however, uses cassava starch or rice paste, or mud as a resist instead of beeswax.The art of batik is most highly developed in the island of Java in Indonesia. In Java, all the materials for the process are readily available - cotton and beeswax and plants from which different vegetable dyes are made.Indonesian batik predates written records: G. P. Rouffaer argues that the technique might have been introduced during the 6th or 7th century from India or Sri Lanka. On the other hand, the Dutch archaeologist J.L.A. Brandes and the Indonesian archaeologist F.A. Sutjipto believe Indonesian batik is a native tradition, since other regions in Indonesia such as Toraja, Flores, Halmahera, and Papua, which were not directly influenced by Hinduism, have an age-old tradition of batik making.
Text 3. Batik technique Batik craftswomen in Java drawing intricate patterns using canting and wax that are kept hot and liquid in a heated small pan. Firstly, a cloth is washed, soaked and beaten with a large mallet. Patterns are drawn with pencil and later redrawn using hot wax, usually made from a mixture of paraffin or beeswax, sometimes mixed with plant resins, which functions as a dye-resist. The wax can be applied with a variety of tools. A pen-like instrument called a canting (Javanese pronunciation: [tʃantiŋ], sometimes spelled with old Dutch orthography tjanting) is the most common. A tjanting is made from a small copper reservoir with a spout on a wooden handle. The reservoir holds the resist which flows through the spout, creating dots and lines as it moves. For larger patterns, a stiff brush may be used.Alternatively, a copper block stamp called a cap (Javanese pronunciation: [tʃap]; old spelling tjap) is used to cover large areas more efficiently. After the cloth is dry, the resist is removed by boiling or scraping the cloth. The areas treated with resist keep their original colour; when the resist is removed the contrast between the dyed and undyed areas forms the pattern. This process is repeated as many times as the number of colours desired. The most traditional type of batik, called batik tulis (written batik), is drawn using only the canting. The cloth needs to be drawn on both sides, and dipped in a dye bath three to four times. The whole process may take up to a year; it yields considerably finer patterns than stamped batik. Many Indonesian batik patterns are symbolic. Infants are carried in batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring the child luck, and certain batik designs are reserved for brides and bridegrooms, as well as their families. Some designs are reserved for royalties, and even banned to 60
be worn by commoners. Consequently, a person's rank could be determined by the pattern of the batik he or she wore. Further study to the geometry of symbolism in Indonesian batik showed the applicability of fractal geometry in traditional designs. Batik garments play a central role in certain Javanese rituals, such as the ceremonial casting of royal batik into a volcano. In the Javanese naloni mitoni ceremony, the mother-to-be is wrapped in seven layers of batik, wishing her good things. Batik is also prominent in the tedak siten ceremony when a child touches the earth for the first time. In October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve its heritage. The day, October 2, 2009 has been stated by Indonesian government as National Batik Day, as also at the time the map of Indonesian batik diversity by Hokky Situngkir was opened for public for the first time by the Indonesian Ministry of Research and Technology.
Text 4. Texture In the visual arts, texture is the perceived surface quality of a work of art. It is an element of two-dimensional and three-dimensional designs and is distinguished by its perceived visual and physical properties. Use of texture, along with other elements of design, can convey a variety of messages and emotions. The bumpy texture of tactile paving. The physical texture (also known as actual texture or tactile texture) are the patterns of variations upon a solid surface. This can include -but is not limited to- fur, wood grain, sand, smooth surface of canvas or metal, glass, and leather. Physical texture differentiates itself from visual texture by having a physical quality that can be felt by touching the surface of the texture. Specific use of a texture can affect the smoothness that an artwork conveys. For instance, use of rough surfaces can be visually active, whilst smooth surfaces can be visually restful. The use of both can give a sense of personality to a design, or utilized to create emphasis, rhythm, contrast, etc. Light is an important factor for identifying the physical texture because it can affect how a surface is being viewed. Strong lights on a smooth surface can obscure the readability of a drawing or photograph, whilst they can create strong contrasts in a highly textural surface such as river rocks, sand, etc. Visual texture or implied texture is the illusion of having physical texture. Every material and every support surface has its own visual texture and needs to be taken into consideration before creating a composition. As such, materials such as canvas and watercolour paper are considerably rougher than, for example, photo-quality computer paper and may not be best suited to creating a flat, smooth texture. Photography, drawings and paintings use visual texture both to portray their own subject matter realistically and with interpretation. Texture in these media is generally created by the repetition of the shape and line. Decorative texture "decorates a surface". Texture is added to embellish the surface either that usually contains some uniformity. This focuses more on the process of the visual creation; the marks of texture made also creates the shapes. These are often "accidental" forms that create texture.
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Text 5. Interior designer Interior designer implies that there is more of an emphasis on planning, functional design and the effective use of space, as compared to interior decorating. An interior designer in fineline design can undertake projects that include arranging the basic layout of spaces within a building as well as projects that require an understanding of technical issues such as window and door positioning, acoustics, and lighting. Although an interior designer may create the layout of a space, they may not alter load-bearing walls without having their designs stamped for approval by a structural engineer. Interior designers often work directly with architects, engineers and contractors. Interior designers must be highly skilled in order to create interior environments that are functional, safe, and adhere to building codes, regulations and ADA requirements. They go beyond the selection of color palettes and furnishings and apply their knowledge to the development of construction documents, occupancy loads, healthcare regulations and sustainable design principles, as well as the management and coordination of professional services including mechanical, electrical, plumbing, and life safety–all to ensure that people can live, learn or work in an innocuous environment that is also aesthetically pleasing. Someone may wish to specialize and develop technical knowledge specific to one area or type of interior design, such as residential design, commercial design, hospitality design, healthcare design, universal design, exhibition design, furniture design, and spatial branding. Interior design is a creative profession that is relatively new, constantly evolving, and often confusing to the public. It is not an artistic pursuit and relies on research from many fields to provide a well-trained understanding of how people are influenced by their environments. Color is a powerful design tool in decoration, as well as in interior design which is the art of composing, and coordinating colors together to create a stylish scheme on the interior architecture of the space. It is essential to interior designers to acquire a deep experience with colors, understand their psychological effects, and understand the meaning of each color in different locations and situations in order to create suitable combinations for each place. Combining colors together could result in creating a state of mind as seen by the observer, and could eventually result in positive or negative effects on them. Colors make the room feel either more calm, cheerful, comfortable, stressful, or dramatic. Color combination make a tiny room seem larger or smaller. So it is the Interior designer profession to choose appropriate colors for a project.
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GLOSSARY acrylic – paint is acrylic, it is made with water and plastic substances. aesthetics -is the philosophy or way of thinking that deals with beauty. an angle is a measurement of the space in a corner where two lines meet each other. brush is a tool with many hairs at one end that is used to spread a material, such as paint. 3-d printing – the generation of three dimensional objects by printers which implement material sprays. carve –I s to cut out parts of it in order to make a particular shape or design. ceramics – organic, non-metallic solids prepared by heat and resistant to electricity. Ceramic fiber used for insulation is a kind of aluminum silicate fiber chemicals – topics pertaining to various individual chemicals and their properties. contrast – contrast is the degree of difference between colors or lightness and darkness in something. clay is a heavy material that starts as a soft substance but becomes very hard under high heat. composite materials – often called simply composites, materials composed of two or more constituent materials with significantly different characteristics which maintain their distinctiveness when combined. compounds – compounds are substances containing two or more elements, including various silicon, gallium and lead compounds. conductivity & superconductivity – topics related to electrical conductivity, including semiconductors, superconductors and current. crystalline materials – solid materials whose constituent atoms are arranged in an orderly and repeating pattern in three dimensions. curved – if something curved, it is bent or rounded. dielectrics – electrical insulators which can be polarized. elements – chemical elements including carbon, hydrogen and roentgenium. films – thin chemical coverings applied to a material's surface. fluids – substances that continually deform under applied pressure, composing both liquids and gases. geosynthetics – polymers used in civil engineering applications. glass – topics dealing with all aspects of glasses. glaze – a glaze is a liquid substance that dries into a hard, shiny coating. high-temperature materials – materials capable of operating at high temperatures. hue – a hue is a type of color, such as red or green. inorganic materials – properties and topics dealing with inorganic materials. insulation – insulators are materials which resist the flow of electrical current. intermetallics – topics dealing with metals with solid-state phase properties. kiln – a type of oven that gets very hot and is used to harden clay. light – a form of energy, produced by the sun and other sources, that allows the eye to see things. lightweight materials – materials with lightweight properties. material movement and transportation – issues dealing with the movement and transportation of various materials. materials science and technology – various topics dealing with the science of materials including chemical analysis, separation processes and filtration. metals – metals tend to be excellent conductors of electricity and are an invaluable component of electrical engineering. metamaterials – artificial materials engineered to have properties that may not be found in nature, often used in producing optic materials. mineral processing – the process of separating materials from ore. 63
nanotechnology – the science and study of creating and manipulating objects on an atomic scale. opaque – if something is opaque, light cannot shine through it. packaging – preparing products and electronics for commercial distribution. plastics – synthetic materials that are usually polymers derived from petrochemicals. polymers – a large molecule composed of repeating structural units. powder technology – topics dealing with materials separated into tiny particles. resins – the hydrocarbon secretion of some plants, usually conifers, which can produce varnishes, adhesives and other products. rolling & processing – topics related to various metalworking methods involving rolling. scissors – scissors are two connected blades that slide against each other in order to cut something. sculpture – a sculpture is a three-dimensional piece of art that is made by shaping a material, such as stone or clay. sketch – a sketch is a simple drawing or rough outline of something. soft matter – an interdisciplinary area between biology, chemistry and physics. steelmaking – various processes used to create steel, an alloy of iron and carbon. stretch – to stretch something is to pull the sides of something so that it becomes larger in one direction but not in another. style – a style is a particular way that someone does or makes something. translucent – if something is translucent, light can shine through it. utility – utility is how useful something is. woodcut – woodcut is a type of relief printing that involves transferring an image to something from a carved from a carved block of wood.
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REFERENCES 1. Cutting Edge 50 years of British Fashion 1947–1997. – London SW31HW, 1998. 203 p. 2. Evans, V. Art and Design / V. Evans. – Newbury: Express Publishing, 2013. – 39 p. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interior_design https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosaic https://www.britannica.com/art/mosaic-art https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art https://www.mri.psu.edu/mri/research-capabilities/traditional-research/materialscharacterization/materials-characterization https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_design https://www.sokanu.com/careers/fashion-designer/ https://www.prospects.ac.uk/job-profiles/fashion-designer https://www.ancient.eu/Mosaic/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile https://www.advantour.com/russia/crafts.htm https://www.slideshare.net/simiraaj/introduction-on-fashion-designing-concepts-in-fashion
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CONTENTS Part I. Art and Design Unit 1. What is Art...................................................................................................................... Unit 2. Forms of Art ................................................................................................................... Unit 3. Design and Composition................................................................................................. Unit 4. Fashion............................................................................................................................ Part II. Technology of Artistic Material Processing Unit 1. Textile and Fabrics.......................................................................................................... Unit 2. Ceramics.......................................................................................................................... Unit 3. Mosaic............................................................................................................................ Supplementary Reading.............................................................................................................. Glossary...................................................................................................................................... References...................................................................................................................................
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Ковалёва Ольга Ивановна, Ярославова Елена Николаевна ENGLISH FOR BACHELORS: TECHNOLOGY OF ARTISTIC MATERIAL PROCESSING Учебное пособие
Техн. редактор А.В. Миних Дизайн обложки А.В. Коноваловой Издательский центр Южно-Уральского государственного университета Подписано в печать 26.12.2018. Формат 6084 1/8. Печать цифровая. Усл. печ. л. 7,90. Тираж 30 экз. Заказ 589/219. Отпечатано c оригинал-макета заказчика в типографии Издательского центра ЮУрГУ. 454080, г. Челябинск, проспект Ленина, 76.
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