Egypt Part 1. Lower Egypt, with the Fayum and the Peninsula of Sinai [2 ed.]

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B£DEKER’S guide books. GREAT BRITAIN, Second Edition.

with 15 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama 10 marks

1890.

LONDON

ENVIRONS,

AND ITS Seventh Edition. 1889.

BELGIUM

HOLLAND,

and

with

3

Maps and

Maps and

with 13

15 Plans 6 marks

20 Plans

Tenth Edition. 1891.

THE RHINE

6 marks,

from Rotterdam to Constance (the Seven

Mountains, Moselle, Volcanic Eieel, Vosges Mts etc.), with 36 Maps and 22 Plans. Eleventh Edition.

NORTHERN GERMANY, Tenth Edition.

Maps and 8 marks.

Salzkammergut

GREEuBf^l^ 6

,

with

etc.

Seventh Edition.

35 Maps, 8

1891.

marks.

Plans and a Panorama of Athens. 10 marks.

•

NORTHERN -

15

1891.

including the Bavarian High-

12 Pljfcay^^}

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i

HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS EDITED BY

K.

BAEDEKER,

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LOWER EGTPT^WITH THE EAtfjM AND THE

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PENINSULA OF SINAI.

WITH

16

MAPS,

30

PLANS,

7

VIEWS, AND

76

VIGNETTES.

..- 4',,

•

.

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SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. G ;.V'

KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. LONDON: DULAU AND CO 7 37 S OLIO SQUARE LEIPZIG:

,

1885. All rights reserved.

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‘Go, little book, God send tbee good passage. specially let this be tby prayere Unto them all tbat tbee will read or bear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.

And

Chaucer.

,

PREFACE; v '

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The

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velum# is yMsfcc^tfct ol a series rof Handbooks for the East nm$ in course of •preparktio^, and designed, like the Editor’s European h^nd^dpk*; fbr the guidpresent

'

ance of travellers.

The materials from which the first edition of the Handbook for Lower Egypt was compiled were partly furnished by Professor G. Ebers of Leipsic, while articles on special subjects, as well as many additions and emendations, were contributed by a number of other writers. The Editor is specially indebted to Professor Ascherson and Dr. Klunzinger of Berlin, Dr. G. Schiveinfurth and Franz Bey of Cairo, Professor Springer of Leipsic, and Professor Socin of Tubingen. To several English gentlemen who contributed a number of valuable corrections and suggestions, and particularly to the the Editor distinguished Egyptologist Dr. Samuel Birch also begs to tender his grateful acknowledgements. The corrections and additions for the second edition have been mainly furnished by Dr. Schiveinfurth, Dr. Spitta Bey (late and Emil Brugsch Bey all of librarian to the Khedive) Cairo. The Editor lias also repeatedly visited Lower Egypt for the purpose of obtaining the most recent practical information, of the kind most likely to be useful to travellers. As, however, a tour in the East is attended with far greater difficulty than -in- Europe,-, and sources of information are far less abundant, the Handbook must necessarily contain many imperfections, and the Editor will therefore gratefully avail himself of gny communications which his readers may kindly contribute, jus many of them have so generously

Levantines

Armenians and Jews Europeans The Nile Extent of the River Its

.

Turks

.

.

16 17 17 21

23 25

Intercourse with Orientals

.

12 14 16

.

29 29 31 85

36 37 38 39 42 45 48 49 51 52 52 53 53

55 55 56 57

!

Vlll

CONTENTS. Page Inundation

57 59 59

Civilising Effects of the River Embouchures of the Nile

Geology of Egypt and Notice of the Desert (by Professor K. Zittel) The Oases (by Prof. P. Ascherson) Climate Atmosphere Rain

Winds Temperature Thermometers Agriculture and Vegetation

70 71

Autumn

Seasons).

72 74

75 77 77 77

Fruit-Trees Decorative Plants

The Animal Kingdom in Egypt by Dr. M. (

Th.

v.

lin)

Heug..

.

78

.

Domestic Animals Wild Animals

78 79 80 81 83 83

Birds of Passage Other Mammals and Birds Reptiles

Fish of the Nile (by Dr.

C.

B. Klunzinger)

85 86

Outline of the History of Egypt Chronological Table Primaeval Monarchy Middle Monarchy Period of the Hyksos

86 87 88 90 93 96 98 100 101

New Empire Persian Period The Ptolemies

The Romans The Byzantines

Mohammedan

Period

Khalifs

101

Mamelukes Osmans The French

104 105 105 106

Mohammed

IV. V. VI. VII.

67 67 68 69 70

70

Capabilities of the Soil Irrigation Agricultural Periods (Winter, Summer, and Agricultural Implements Farm Produce of Egypt Trees and Plantations Trees in Ancient Times

III.

60 63 67

Ali and his Successors Hieroglyphics Frequently Recurring Names of Egyptian Kings Religion of the Ancient Egyptians Doctrines of El-Islam (by Prof. Socin ) r

.

.

.

Remarks|on Mohammedan- Customs VIII. History of Egyptian Art IX. Buildings of the Mosques

Tombs Dwelling-Houses

Mohammedans (by Franz Bey

of Cairo)

110 118 124 140 153 157 174 183 185 185

ix

CONTENTS.

Page

X. The Arabic Language Arabic Yocabulary XI. Works on Egypt

188 192 200

Route Alexandria 1.

203 203

Arrival Hotels. Cafes. Disposition of

Baths.

Carriages.

Consulates, etc.

.

203-206 206

.

Time

207 208 215 216 218 219

History

Topography of Ancient Alexandria

Mahmudiyeh Canal Public Institutions. Waterworks. Harbours Place and Monument of Mohammed rAli. Pompey’s Column Catacombs. Ras et-Tin Palaces of Nimreh Telateh and MoGinenet en-Nuzha.

harrem Bey Meks and the New Docks Excursion to Ramleh. 2.

From Alexandria

Cleopatra’s Needle.

Nicopolis

.

220 221 222

.

223

to Cairo

Lake Mareotis

223 224 225 226 226 227

From

Tell el-Barud to Bulak ed-Dakrur Winter Aspect of the Delta The Fair of Tanta

From Tanta to Shibin el-Kom From Benha to Kom el-Atrib (Athribis) 3.

231

Cairo Arrival.

Railway Stations. Hotels. Pensions. Private Apart-

ments.

Restaurants. Cafes

231 232

Money-Changers. Bankers. Consulates. Carriages Donkeys. Omnibuses. Commissionnaii’es. Dragomans. Post Office. Telegraph Offices. Theatres. Physicians. Churches. Schools. Chemists. Hospitals. Teachers of Languages. Clubs. Baths. Booksellers. Photographs European Wares. Goods Agents. Barbers. Wine. Tobacco Arabian Bazaars. Woodwork, etc .

233

234 235 236 236 239 239

Mohammedans

Religious Festivals of the Dervishes Sights and Disposition of History of the City

Time

Remarks on the Situation

of the City.

Public Institutions Street Scenes General Characteristics.

.

.

Population

.

.

241 243

.

244

244 Conspicuous Features.

Turbans.

Women.

Street-Cries. Beggars. Water-Carriers (Sakkas, Public Kitchens. Sweetmeats, Fruit, etc. Hemali). .Schools.

Artizans

244-251

251

Bazaars Muski. Suk el-Hamzawi. Suk el- fAttarin. Silk el-Fahhami Sukkariyeh. Shoemakers’ Bazaar. Suk es-Sellaha. Bazaar of the Saddlers. Ghuriyeh Street. Suk es- Sudan. Bazaar of the Booksellers and Bookbinder’s

Khan el-Klialili Suk es-Saigh. Suk el-Gohargiyeh.

Suk en-Nahhasin. Gameliyeh. Smaller Bazaars Ezbekiyeh Place and New Town of Isinadliya Southern Quarters of the Inner City Bet el-Kadi.

...... .

.

253

254 255 256 257

258 260

X

CONTENTS.

Route

Page

Mohammed

Boulevard

Garni 0 Eifaiiyeh.

°Ali.

Garni 0 Sul-

tan Hasan Rumelek and Karamedan (Place Mehemet Ali). Garni Mahmudi and Cami °Abderraliman. Citadel

260

0

0

Garni 0 Mohammed °Ali Garni Salaheddin Yusuf. 0

Pasha Tekiyet epMaulawiyeh. ’

.

Garni 0 Suleman

Joseph’s Well.

264

'

"

.

Sebil

Mother of °Abbas

of the

Pasha. Garni' Ibn Tulun Garni 0 Eait Bey. Garni 0 es-Seiyideh Zenab Viceroyal Library at Derb el-Gamamiz Monastery of Dervishes in the Habbaniyeh Garni 0 el-Benat. Skekh ul-Islam. Bab ez- Zuwelek (Mutawelli), Garni 0 el-Muaiyad. Derb el-Ahmar. Garni 0 el-

Werdani

Mohammed

Sebil of

Garni 0 el-Ghuri North-Eastern Quarters of the City Muristan Kalaun Tomb of Sultan Mohammed en-Nasir ibn Kalaun Bai'kukiyeh Mosque Sebil of °Abder-Rahman Kikhya. Okella Sulllkar Pasha. Medreseh Gameiiveh. Garni 0 el-Hakim Bab en-Nasr and Bab el-Futuh Burckhardt’s Tomb. New Waterworks Tombs of the Khalifs Tomb-Mosques of Sultan Kansuweh el-Ghuri, Sultan elTomb-Mosque of Sultan Ashraf, and Emir Yusuf. °Ali.

....

*

Barkuk Sultan Farag. Sultan Suleman. Seb°a Benab Bursbey. Ma°bed er-Rifa°i. , Okella and Tomb-Mosque of Kait Bey Garni 0 el-Azhar (University) Garni 0 el-Hasanen Bulak and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities .

.

..

.

.

.

4.

Environs of Cairo Old Cairo (Masr el-Atika) Fumm el-Klialig. Old Waterworks Cemeteries. Island of Roda The Nilometer (Mikyas)

.

Husk el-Memalik

Kasr en-Nuzha.

.

.

....

275 275 277 278 279 280 281 282

282 284 285 286 287 292 293

318 319 320

324 324 327 328

328 330 Garden of Skubra.

.

.

331

331

Heliopolis Garni 0 ez-Zahir. 'Abbasiyeh. Palace ofEubbeh. Race-Course

Matariyeh and the Tree of the Virgin El-Merg. Khankah. Birlcet el-Hagg The Mokattam Hills Gebel and Mosque of Giyushi Gebel el-Ahmar Moses’ Spring and the Petrified Forest Gebel Khashab (Small Petrified Wood) Great Petrified Wood near Bir el-Fahmeh ’

332 333 335

335 335 337

337

.

Pyramids of Gizeh

272 274

of the Citadel. Christian

Garni 0 °Amr Tombs of the Mamelukes

Villa Ciccolani.

265 268 269 271

317 317

Castle of Babylon. Abu Sergeh (Coptic Church of St. Mary) Seiyideli Maryam (Greek Church of St. Mary). Mari Mena. Abu Sefen. Synagogue. Church ’of St. Barbara

Imam Shafe°i. Hush el-Basha. Chateau and Park of Gezireh Shuhra Avenue

262 263

.

338 340

340

xi

CONTENTS.

Page

Route

From

Cairo to Gizeh Situation of the Pyramids Disposition of Time History of the Building of the Pyramids according to Herodotus, Diodorus, Strabo, Pliny, and others Structure of the Pyramids according to Prof. Lepsius and others Opening of the Pyramids and Attempts to destroy them Great Pyramid (ascent and interior) .

Second Pyramid Third Pyramid The Sphinx Granite Temple near the Sphinx

Tomb

of

Numbers

.

.

Campbell’s Tomb. Walk round the Plateau of the Pyramids Pyramids of Aim Roasli to Sakkara via Aim sir. Pyramids of Abusir Ancient Memphis and Tombs of Sakkara. ... From Cairo to Memphis via Bedrashen History of Memphis Colossal Statue of Ramses II

From Gizeh Site of

From Mitrahineh to Sakkara Tombs of Sakkara. Structure and Ornamentation •

Dahshur

Quarries of Tura and Baths of

5.

Helwan

The Barrage du Nil From Cairo to Suez to

Suez

Tell el-Maskhuta (Ramses) Suez, Ain Musa, and the Red Sea Natural Products of the Red Sea Submarine Coral Reefs The Red Sea and its Coasts 7. From Suez to Port Sa id. The Suez Canal Topography and History of the Isthmus. Ancient Canals through the Isthmus The present Suez Canal. History and Statistics Monuments of Darius Ruins of Pelusium. Lake Menzaleh 8. Towns of the Central and Northern Delta a. From Cairo to Mansura From Mansura to Behbit el-IIager Ruins of Mendes f

.

.

f

From Mansura

to

Damietta

Environs of Damietta. Mouth of the Nile. Prom Damietta to Rosetta via Lake Burlus c.

From Damietta

to

371 371 372 374 376

408

The Freshwater Canal from Cairo The Ancient Bubastis The Biblical Land Goshen

b.

370 370

402 403 406

Tell el-Yehudiyeh

6.

350 352 354 358 360 362 365 366 367

378 382 383 385 388 401 402

r

of

344

of the

Mastabas Step-Pyramid of Sakkara Pyramid of King Unas. The Serapeum Tombs of the Apis-bulls (Egyptian Serapeum) Mastaba of Ti Mastabas of Ptahhotep and Sabu Mastaba Far un

Pyramids

340 342 343

Tanta

......

408 409 410 411 414

415 415 416 421

421 425 429 432 435

438 438 440 442

442 444 445

445

xii

CONTENTS.

Route

From Maliallet Ruh From Mahallet Ruh d.

Sa'is

e.

Rosetta

pa g e to Zifteh to Desuk

445 447

From Alexandria to Rosetta. From DamanMr to Rosetta f.

445 445

Canopus

The Rosetta Stone San (Tanis) From Abu Shekuk or Abu Kebir to Tanis From Port Sa id to Tanis. The Ancient Tennis From Tanis to Damietta, Mansfira, or Sinbelawin. r

9.

447 448 450

451

.... .

.

.

The Fayum

456

Situation and History of the

Fayum

Excursions from Medinet el-Fayum

Hawara Lake

451 452 452

el-Kebir, the Pyramid of Hawara, and the Labyrinth Moeris. Circuit of the old bed of the Lake

....

Birket el-Kurun and Kasr Karun

Pyramid and Mastaba

of

Medum

Ahnas el-Medineh (Herakleopolis) Beni-Suef. Monasteries of SS. Anthony and Paul 10. The Peninsula of Sinai Preparations. Contract with Dragoman. Camels, etc. Routes. Sea-Voyage to Tur Formation of the Peninsula. Group of Mt. Sinai Atfih (Aphroditopolis).

.... .

.

....

Inhabitants History Exodus of the Israelites From Suez to Mt. Sinai hy Maghara and Wadi Firan. Stations of the Israelites in the Desert, and Number of the .

Emigrants

The Jebel Hammam Far un Mines of Maghara The Wadi Maghara a station f

of the Israelites Sinaitic Inscriptions The Oasis of Firan Rephidim, and the Biblical Narrative

,

.

456 459 459 462 465 467 469 470

470 470 473 477 478 479 481

485 486 488 491 493 493 495 496 497

Mt. Serbal Monastery of St. Catharine on Mt. Sinai 503 Church of the Transfiguration. Chapel of the Burning Bush. 506-509 Mosque. Library. Cemetery. Garden

The Jebel Musa and Ras es-Safsaf

510

The Jebel Fre a. The Wadi el-Leja. Der el-Arba in The Jebel Katherin The Wadi SebaTyeh The Jebel Umm Shomar Route to Mt. Sinai via Tur 1. Through the Wadi es-Sleh 2. Through the Wadi Hebran From the Monastery of Mt. Sinai to Akaba From Akaba to Petra Return-Route from the Monastery of Mt. Sinai to Suez through the Wadi esh-Shekh and via Sarbut el-Khadem Tndex r

r

r

f

513 514

514 515 515

515 517 518

519 520

520 525

MAPS, PLANS,

xiii

etc.

Maps.

Map op the Delta (Routes 2, 5, 7, 8), General Map op Egypt, shewing the

1. 2.

before the Title Page. Character of the Soil, between

pp. 30, 3i. 4.

Map op the Environs of Alexandria (R. Map of the Environs op Cairo (as far as

5.

Special

3.

Dahshur on the

S.;

R.

4),

between pp.

between pp. 222, 223. the Barrage on the N. and

1),

316, 317.

Map of the Eastern Environs of Cairo

(R. 4),

between

(R. 4),

between

pp. 330, 331. 6.

Special

Map of the Southern Environs of Cairo

pp. 340, 341. 7. 8. 9.

Map of the Pyramids of Gizeh (R. 4), between pp. 354, 355. Map of the Ruins of Memphis (R. 4), between pp. 372, 373. The Pyramids and Tomes of Sakkara and Abusir (R. 4), between pp. 378, 379.

10.

Map

of the Gulf of Suez, with Moses

1

Springs (R.

6),

between pp.

414, 415. 11. 12.

Map of the Suez Canal (R. 7), between pp. 434, 435. Map of the Nile from Cairo to Feshn, beyond the FayGm the Pyramids

5

R.

9),

between pp.

(including

456, 457.

14.

Map of the Peninsula of Sinai (R. 10), between pp. 470, 471. Map of the Environs of Mt. Sinai and Mt. Serbal (R. 10), between

15.

Map of the Environs of the Monastery of

16.

Musa (R. 10), between pp. 502, 503. Map showing Routes to the Levant,

13.

pp. 496, 497.

Mt. Sinai and of Jebel

after the Index.

Plans. 1.

2.

Arabian Bath, p. 22. Arabian Dwelling House

4. 5. 6.

7. 8. 9.

10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

16. 17.

18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.

-

-

3.

:

-

Ground Floor, p. 186. First Floor, p. 187.

Plan of Alexandria, p. 202. Plan of*A.ncient Alexandria, Large Plan of Cairo, p. 228.

p. 208.

GamF Sultan Hasan, p. 261. Mohammed Ali, p. 263. f

-

Ibn TulGn,

p. 266.

Mubistan KalaGn, p. 276. Bab en-Nasr and Bab el- Futuh, p. 281. Tombs of the KhalJfs, p. 282. Tomb Mosque of Sultan BarkGk, p. 283. of Kait Bey, p*. 286.

GamF

el-Aziiar, p.’290.

Plan of BClak, p. 294. Museum of Egyptian Antiquities at BGlak, p. Church of AbG Sergeh, at Old Cairo, p. 321.

GamF

'Amk, at Old Cairo,

p. 325.

Hosh el-Basha, p. 328. Park and Palace of GezIreh, The Great Pyramid of Gizeh, The Third Pyramid of Gizeii,

p. 329. p. 355. p. 361.

24. 25. 26.

Granite Temple, adjoining the Great Sphinx, Tombs of the Apis Bulls at Sakkara, p. 388.

27. 28. 29.

Suez and* Port Ibrahim, p. IsMA f iuiyA, p. 434. Port SA fD, p. 435. Mines of Maghara, p. 492.

30.

1.

2.

The Mastaba of

295.

p. 366.

Ti, p. 390. 415.

f

Views. General View of the Tombs of the KhalIfs, p. 284. View of the Tombs of the Mamelukes and the Citadel,

p. 327. i

xiv 3. 4.

VIGNETTES.

View of several of the Tombs of the Khalifs, p. 327. View of the Granite Temple, the Sphinx, and the Great Pyramid of Gizeh,

5. 6.

7.

p. 356.

View of the Sphinx, p. 356. View of the Step-Pyramid of Sakkara,. p. 382. View of the Interior of the Apis Tombs at Sakkara,

p. 382.

Vignettes. 1.

Names

2-27.

of 150 Egyptian Kings, pp. 118-124. Mythological Illustrations, pp. 127-138.

Mohammedan

Postures of Prayer, p. 148. 28. 29. Dancing Dervishes, p. 151. 30-47. Art Illustrations, pp. 158-172. 48. Arabian Barber, p. 235. 49. Lady in Walking Dress, p. 247. and Child, p. 247. 50.

Woman

51. 52. Water-carriers (Sakka, Hemali), pp. 248, 249. 53. Public Kitchen, p. 249. 54. Section of a Pyramid, showing the structure, p. 351. 55. The Great Sphinx, at the time of its excavation, p. 363. 56. Interior of the Apis Tombs at Sakkara, p. 386. 67-75. Reliefs in the Mastaba of Ti, at Sakkara, pp. 390-400.

Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.

r

|irikJ other land and is pre-eminent above all the countries in the world for works that one can hardly describe.'' ,

Herodotus

At

tlie

close of last century

Egypt was in

(B.C. 456).

measure reBonaparte’s Egyptian a great

discovered by the French savants attached to expedition. Since that period it has attracted the ever-increasing its historical and archaeological marvels attention of the scientific have been gradually unveiled to the world it is the most ancient, and was yet at one time the most civilised country of antiquity and it therefore cannot fail to awaken the profoundest interest in all students of the history and development of human culture. Like other countries of the far East, Egypt possesses for the ‘Frank’ traveller the twofold attraction of scenery and history. To the first category belong the peculiar charms of its Oriental climate, the singularly clear atmosphere, the wonderful colouring and effects of light and shade, such as are unknown in more northern climates, the exuberant fertility of the cultivated districts contrasted with the solemn, awe-inspiring desert, and the manners, customs, and appearance of a most interesting, though not always pleasing, population. At the same time Egypt is pre-eminent among the countries of the East, and indeed among those of the whole world, as the At every step we encradle of history and of human culture. counter venerable monuments which have survived the destructive influences of thousands of years and the vandalism of invaders and conquerors, and which are executed on so grand a scale, with so much artistic skill, and with such historical consistency, as at once to excite our highest admiration and command our most pro;

;

;

found respect.

Owing

to its distance from the homes of most travellers, and to expense involved in exploring it, Egypt will never be overrun the by tourists to the same extent as Switzerland or Italy but it is now reached without difficulty by one of the numerous Mediterranean steamboat lines, and increased facilities are afforded to travellers by the recent construction of railways (p. 11) within the country itself, while its unrivalled attractions abundantly reward the enterprising traveller and supply him with a subject of life-long- interest. ;

Baedeker’s Egypt

I.

2nd Ed.

J_

2

Preliminary Information.

I. (1).

Plan of Tour. Season. Companions. Routes.

Plan. The

Egypt are now such that the an outline of his tour at home with intending visitor may make almost as great ease as for most of the countries of Europe. During the travelling season, moreover, the weather is always fine (comp, p. 67), and never causes disappointment and derangement of plans as in most other countries. If, therefore, the traveller from a more northern region retains his energy in this somewhat enervating climate and resists the undoubted attractions of the ‘dolce far niente’, he will have no difficulty in disposing of every day to adfacilities for travel in

,

vantage.

From

the beginning of November till the middle or end of April there are but few days of bad weather in the interior of Egypt the prevalent temperature is that of a delicious spring or moderate summer, and the few drops of rain that occasionally fall will hardly be observed by the European traveller. The fertilising inundation of the Nile (p. 57) has by this time subsided, and the whole face of the country smiles with fresh verdure. About the end of April, and sometimes as early as March, begins the period of the Khamsin (p. 69), a sultry, parching, and enervating wind from the desert, prevailing at longer or shorter intervals for about fifty days (whence the name), though in some seasons it does not make its appearance at all. Winter is therefore the proper season for a tour in Egypt. Those travellers, however, who can endure the fierce glare of an African summer sun will at that season have the advantage of seeing the extent of the overflow of the Nile, and will find that prices are then generally much lower than in winter.

Season.

;

(Compare also p. 74.) Companions. The

traveller can hardly be recommended to start alone for a tour in a country whose customs and language are so entirely different from his own but, if he has been unable to make up a suitable party at home, he will probably have an opportunity of doing so at Alexandria or Cairo, or possibly at Suez or Port Sa id. Travelling as a member of a party is, moreover, much less expensive than travelling alone, many of the items being the same for a single traveller as for several together. Apart, however, from the pecuniary advantage, a party is more likely to succeed in making satisfactory arrangements with the natives with whom they have to deal. (Voyage up the Nile, see vol. ii journey to Mt. Sinai, R. 10.) Routes. glimpse at Lower Egypt, i.e. Alexandria, Cairo, and the Suez Canal, may be obtained in three weeks (exclusive of the journey out) and the traveller may distribute his time as follows ;

r

;

A

:

—

;

;

EXPENSES. Alexandria Railway to Cairo

or including

1,

3

...

Tanta

Cairo and its environs, the Pyramids, etc. Railway to Suez and stay there

Days

Pays.

!

1 /2

10 3

Visit to the Springs of Moses

Railway to Isma'iliya Steamer on the Suez Canal

D /2

1

to Port

...

r

Sa id

1

1

2

of rest

21

These three weeks

,

Days.

however, might he spent very pleasantly

at Cairo alone.

A

visit to

18-24 Days. 4-6

Mt. Sinai requires

The Fayum Voyage up the Nile and hack

—

By steamer, as far as Assuan, and hack, 21 thence, from above the first cataract to Abu Simbel near the second cataract, and hack 11 (b) By dahahiyeh to Assuan, and hack, about

(a)

(c)

By dahahiyeh

to

Abu Simbel and hack

.

32 60 90

-

A

complete tour through Egypt, including the Nile and the peninsula of Mt. Sinai, will thus occupy 3-5 months in all. (2).

Expenses. Money.

The

cost of a tour in Egypt, and in Oriental counconsiderably greater than that of a visit to any tries generally, part of Europe, the reasons being that most travellers cannot conform with the simple habits of the natives, that they are ignorant of the language, and that special arrangements have to be made to meet their requirements. The average charge at the hotels for a day’s board and lodging is 15-25 fr., without wine (compare p. 17). The cheapest wine costs 3-4 fr. per bottle English beer 2-272 fr-5 the traveller’s hotel expenses will therefore amount fee 1 /2“i frto at least 20-30 fr. a day, to which must be added the hire of donkeys and carriages and the inevitable ‘pourboires’. The total day’s expenditure should therefore be estimated at 30 fr. at least. (Steamboat-fares are of course extra p. 10). The traveller whose time is very limited, or who is accompanied ladies, will also require the services of a guide or valet-de-place, by or ‘dragoman’, as they prefer to style themselves (5-8 fr. per day). Money. A small sum of money for the early part of the journey may be taken in English or French gold, os in English banknotes, but large sums should always be in the form of circular notes. These notes, which if kept separate from the ‘letter of indication’ cannot be cashed by a thief or a dishonest finder, are issued by the principal London banks. Fresh supplies may be forwarded from England by post-office order, in sums not exceeding 500 fr.

Expenses.

is

;

5

;

1*

MONEY.

4

The current

exchange should always he ascertained from a hanker (pp. 206, 282; see also Table, p. 5), and money should he changed as rarely as possible at an ordinary money-changer’s, at a For excursions in hotel, in the bazaars, or through a dragoman. the country the traveller should he provided with an ample supply of small change (silver piastres, half-piastres, and copper coin), as the villagers sometimes refuse to change money of any kind, and the traveller may thus he very seriously inconvenienced. They also frequently decline to take a coin if the inscription is worn away by use, and in their examination of gold pieces they attach great importance to the ring of the metal. The traveller should also he on his guard against counterfeit dollars and piastres. A favourite ornament with Oriental women consists of a string of gold coins worn round the head, or as a necklace, and coins with holes in them are accordingly often met with, hut they are very apt to he rejected by the natives. In changing money, therefore, all these points should he attended to. It need hardly he observed that, money should always he carefully kept under lock and key, and that it should he shown as little as possible, in order that the cupidity of the people with whom the traveller has to do may not he aroused. Paper money is unknown in the East. Besides the Egyptian coinage, which moreover has two different rates of exchange!, Turkish, French, English, Italian, Austrian, and Russian gold and rate of

'

silver coins are freely circulated.

The unit of reckoning in the Egyptian currency is the Piastre which contains 40 Paras. In ordinary retail traffic accounts are kept in current-piastres which are worth one-half of the government tariff-piastres. As, however, these do not, as might he supposed, indicate two different coins, this twofold mode of reckoning ,

,

exceedingly puzzling to strangers. It should he particularly observed that at the shops and bazaars the prices are always fixed in current piastres, so that half the number of silver coins only has to he given. The shopkeepers, however, generally convert their prices into francs for the benefit of strangers, and although their demands are then somewhat raised, they are at least more intelligible. On the other hand, in making small purchases, and in dealing with country-people, it is more advantageous to keep to the reckoning in current piastres, as the sellers are very apt to demand as many francs as the amount of the price in piastres.

is

1

There are indeed three rates of exchange: ‘Tariff', ‘Current and and the latter is also liable to considerable fluctuation in the ; interior of the country. * In Cairo, at present, 1 tariff piastre is worth 8 copper piastres. (At Cairo and Alexandria, however, copper money may be declined.) The value of copper increases as we penetrate into the interior. Thus, at the beginning of 1877, 1 Napoleon realised 480 copper piastres at Alexandria, 450 at Cairo and beyond it as far as Slut and 420 only higher up the river. No advantage, however, can be derived from this difference in vahie except when very large payments are made in copper, as is the custom with the peasantry. As all the taxes are +

‘Copper

,

1

MONEY.

5

Vain e ii Egyi itiai i

Val ae

Mo ney

Fren ch Mon ey

i

in

Cu rArabian

Name

European Name

Tariff CO CD

h

rei lt OQ CD

1

co

u

-f-3

CO

co

a

-r4

1

% ro

& •r-

1

Rub

r

a

„

Egyptian pound half quarter

„ „ „ „

Masriyeh fifth Nusseh Masriyeh tenth

Rub

r

a

,,

„ „

twentieth

„ „

Gineh Stambuli Turkish pound Nusseh „

Rub

r

a

Gineh

„

Ingilisi or

quarter „ „ English sovereign

Frengi

Nusseh

„

„

half

„

„

Bintu

Napoleon d’Or

Nusseh Bintu Rutha „ Gineh Moskufi Magar

half

„

„

quarter

„

„

Russian Imperial b Austrian Ducat

Silver Coins. Egyptian Dollar Riyal Masri Nusseh Riyal Masri half „ „ quarter „ Rub a „ „ „ eighth ^ Tumneh „ „ Parisi c Bariseh Nusseh Bariseh half „ quarter „ Rub ra „ Silver piastre Kirsh half Nusseh Kirsh „ „ quarter „ „ Rub f a „ Riyal Shinku 5-franc piece F ranc Ferank r

ft

'

Nusseh Ferank Rubiyeh Nusseh Rubiyeh Rul/a „ Abu Medfa e Riyal Abutera f

half

„

Rupee d half

(25.)

„

quarter „ Spanish Doui*o Maria Theresa dollar

Riyal Moskufi Barbie Riyal „ illarul/a three-quarters ruble NussehR. Moskufi half „ Rubfa „ quarter „ „ f Rub a Fiorini Quarter Austr. florin Shilling

Nusseh

„

£

o

•rH

& U

a CD

o

CM

IP4

Gold Coins. Gineh Masri Nusseh „

EC Cj fH ri

— — — — — —

— — — — — —

Remarks

CO CD CO

— —

100 200 26 50 100 13 50 25 G 50 20 40 5 20 10 20 2 60 1 30 5 10 87 30 175 20 a 22 75 a. In mercantile 43 35 87 30 11 40 transactions fre21 37 43 35 5 70 quently reckoned as 23 fr. 97 20 195 25 25 12 62 .48 30 97 20 77 6 154 12 20 38 20 77 6 10 19 10 38 20 5 79 18 158 36 20 45 b. Not often met 45 37 91 34 12 S with and can-

—

— — —

,

19 20

39

—

not be changed 5

3

without a slight loss.

9 30 4 35 2 17 8 30 4 15 2 7

19 20 9 30 4 35 17 20 8 30 4 15 2

2 50 1 25 60 2 35

— 1

16

— 56 — 25 — 12 — 6 5 — — — 50 2 — 4 10 8 20 — 00 2 5 4 10 19 — 38 — 5 — 17 — 34 — 4 50 14 27 29 14 3 so 11 — 22 — 2 85 7 14 14 27 — 90 3 27 7 14 — 95 2 14 4 — 60 4 35 9 30 25 — 62 2 17 4 35

— — 20 — — 10 — — 19 10 38 20 4 — 8 — 2 — 4 — — 16 — 8 1

—

Egyptian coins struck at Paris.

c.

1

1

1 10

1

The Anglo-Indiancoin, much

d.

circulated. Called ‘father of the cannon

e.

1

by the Arabs, who mistake the columns for cannons.

1

payable in gold and silver only, tlie precious metals flow steadily from the country to the government coffers in the towns, where Greek and Jewish money-changers profit largely by these variations in the exchange. The ‘shekhs-el-beled’, or village-chiefs, who always endeavour to depreciate the value of copper, also gain considerably by similar transactions.

6 (3).

Passports. Custom House.

Passports are usually asked for at all the traveller is unprovided with one he

Egyptian ports, and if is liable to detention and given up at the custom-house tlie

The passport is and reclaimed at the traveller’s consulate. Custom House. The custom-house examination at Alexandria is generally carried out with great thoroughness, though with perfect politeness, and no article of luggage is allowed to escape unopened. One of the objects chiefly sought for is cigars, on which 75 great inconvenience.

per cent of the estimated value is charged. Considerable difficulty made about admitting firearms and cartridges. The customhouse is now under European management, and it is on the whole advisable to refrain from an attempt to facilitate matters by bakis also

shish (p. 16).

On all goods exported, one per cent of duty is charged on the estimated value, and luggage is accordingly examined again as the traveller quits the country. The exportation of antiquities is strictly prohibited (p. 25). If luggage be forwarded across the frontier, the keys must be sent with it but, if possible, the traveller should always superintend the custom-house examination in person. ;

(4).

Consulates.

Consuls in the East enjoy the same privilege of exterritoriality ambassadors in other countries. A distinction is sometimes made between professional (‘consules missi’) and commercial consuls, and there the former alone having political functions to discharge are consuls, vice-consuls, and consular agents, possessing various degrees of authority. In all cases of emergency the traveller should apply for advice to the nearest consul of his country, through whom the authorities are most conveniently approached, and who will effectually watch over his interests. It is therefore very desirable that travellers should take the earliest possible opportunity of entering into friendly relations with these most useful officials, and the more so as access to some of the principal objects of interest cannot be obtained without their intervention. The kavasses, or consular officers, also render important services to travellers, for which they expect a fee, although not entitled to demand payment. On 1st Jan. 1876 an important reform in the Egyptian Legal System came into operation for a provisional period of five years. Foreigners liad hitherto been entirely withdrawn from the civil and criminal jurisas

;

diction of the Egyptian authorities, to take cognisance of cases in

their consul alone being competent

which they were concerned.

Besides the native authorities, there thus existed no fewer than seventeen co-ordinate consular tribunals, each of which administered the law of its own country ; and, as it was often uncertain before which tribunal and by what law a case would ultimately be decided, the system caused serious inconvenience both to the landed and commercial interests. The Egyptian government at length made a proposal which was specially supported by the then minister Nubar Pasha, and was acceded to by the powers ,

'

'

STEAMBOATS.

7

represented by consuls, that mixed tribunals should be appointed, consisting of courts of first and second instance, for the trial of all civil cases arising between natives and foreigners, or between foreigners of different nationalities, in accordance with Egyptian law, founded on that of France and Italy. Cases in which the Khedive himself and the Egyptian government are concerned are also tried before this new tribunal so that the system of appeals, formerly so much abused, is now done away with. The courts of the first instance are at Alexandria and Cairo. The judges consist of natives and foreigners, the latter being elected by the Khedive out of the qualified officials nominated by the Great Powers. The appeal court at Alexandria is constituted in the same manner. Some of the judges of the first instance are also chosen from members of the smaller European states. These courts enjoy a constitutional guarantee for the independence of their jurisdiction, and, so far as necessary, they execute their judgments by means of their own officers. The languages used are Arabic, French, and Italian. From 1881 to 1884 the jurisdiction of these mixed tribunals was prolonged by the consent of the Powers from year to year, and at the beginning of the latter year it was agreed to continue it for another period of five years. Besides these new courts, the consular and local tribunals still continue to subsist, their jurisdiction being, however, limited to criminal cases and to civil suits between foreigners of the same nationality, provided the question does not affect land. At the beginning of 1884 there was called into existence a new system of Native Courts which take precedence of the mixed courts in deciding criminal cases between natives and foreigners. The general procedure is based on the Code Napoleon. Courts of the first instance have been, or are to be erected at Cairo, Alexandria, Tanta, Zakazik, Benha, Beni Suef, Siut, and Kene, while the courts of appeal are at Cairo and With the native judges are associated ten Belgians, two DutchSifft. men, and one Englishman. A scheme is, however, on foot to appoint a commission to extend to the mixed tribunals the criminal jurisdiction in cases where different nationalities are engaged. ,

—

,

—

(5).

Steamboats on the Mediterranean.

Alexandria, the chief seaport of Egypt, is regularly visited by English, French, Austrian, Italian, Russian, Greek, and Egyptian steamers. Whether the traveller returns westwards on leaving Egypt, or intends to proceed to Syria or elsewhere, it is important that lie should be familiar with the principal steamboat services. The time-tables of the Peninsular &• Oriental Steam Navigation Co. may be obtained in London at 122 Leadenhall St., E.C., or at 25 Cockspur St., S.W. Those who purpose including Syria, Greece, and Constantinople in their Oriental tour should also, before leaving home, write to the Administration des Services des Messageries Maritimes 16 Rue Cannebikre -

‘

,

,

Marseilles'' for a 'Livret des Lignes de la Miditerranie et de la Mer Noire', and to the ‘ Verwaltungsrath der Dampfschifffahrtsgesellschaft des Oesterreich- Ungarisehen Lloyd Trieste for 4 Information for Passengers by the ,

Austrian Lloyd's Steam Navigation Company' (published in English). With the aid of these time-tables, the traveller will have little difficulty in making out his programme. See also Baedeker's Palestine and Syria (sold at the bookshops of Alexandria and Cairo). In selecting a route the traveller must of course be guided by 4

circumstances and his own inclination. The shortest sea-voyage is that from Brindisi, three days and a half; from Trieste (via Corfu), or from Venice (via Ancona and Brindisi), live days; from Naples, four days. The last-named route is perhaps the best for returning, as the temperature of Naples and Rome forms a pleasant intermediary

STEAMBOATS.

8

between tlie warmth of Egypt and the colder climate of N. Europe. The vessels of the principal lines are all nearly on a par with regard to comfort and speed, many of them being large and handsomely fitted up, while others are inferior. The First Class cabins and berths are always well furnished; those Second Class, though less showy, are tolerably comfortable, and In autumn and often patronised by gentlemen travelling alone. winter the vessels bound for Alexandria, and ;in spring those returning westwards, are apt to he crowded. The Food , which is included in the first-class fare and usually in the second also, is always abundant and of good quality. Passengers begin the day by ordering a cup of coffee at 7 or 8 o’clock ; at 9 or 10 a dejeuner a la fourchette of three courses is served; lunch or tiffin is a similar repast at 12 or 1; and at 5 or 6 there is a very ample dinner, after which tea is generally provided. Many travellers prefer the cookery on board the French and Austrian steamers as being lighter and better suited to the climate than that of the English vessels. Passengers who are prevented by sickness from partaking of the regular repasts are supplied with lemonade and other refreshments gratis. The Steward’s Fee which the passenger pays at the end of the fr. to 1 fr. per day; but more is expected voyage, is generally from if unusual trouble has been given. The Baths provided for the use of passengers in the English and some of the other vessels may be used without extra charge but the attendant expects a fee at the end of the voyage. of the

are

,

,

Difference in Sola: (in minutes,

+

or

—

signifying that the time of the place at the head cf

tin

Constantinople

Marseilles

Alexandria

Brindisi

Ancona

London

Athens

Assuan

Berlin

Corfu

Cairo

1

Alexandria

Ancona Assuan Athens Berlin Brindisi Cairo Constantin. Corfu

London Marseilles

Messina

Munich Naples

New York Paris

Pesth

Pome Petersb. Trieste St.

Venice Vienna

+ + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + +

0 65 12 25 66 47 6 4 40 119 98 57 73 62 415 110 43 70 2 64 70 54

— — +

— — — + + + +

+ + +

+ + + 4* 18 + 71 + 62 + 26 + 54 + 33 + 8 + 8 + O + 350 + 45 + 22 + 4 + 67 + 1 + 5 + 15 + 65 0 77 41 J

|2

12 77 0 36 78 59 6

+ —

+ +

—

25

66

41

1

— 36 — 0 — 41 23 — 30 — 21 — 15 —

15 52 131 95 110 73 69 4* 33 4S 85 74 4* 38 427 391 86 122 19 55 81 45 10 26 76 40 82 46 66 29

+ + + + + + + + — + + +

+ + — + — + + — + —

2

+

78 41 0

+

1

18

72 62 26 54 32

+ 4

*

+ + + + + + — 1+ + 4+ 12 + 9

7 3 350 44 23 4 68

+ + — +

47 6 18 71 59 6 23 30 18 4“ 72 0 4“ 53 0 53 44 9 8 46 72 125 51 104

+ + + + 10 + 26 + 15 + 368 + 63 + 4 + 22 + 49 + 17 + 23 + 7 +

63

79 68 421 116 49

— 119 — 54 — 3c — 131 — 1K| 15 21 — 15 — 95 — 62 + 26 — 54 — 37 44 + 8 — 72 — 125 — 9 — 46 0 — 36 — 116 — 36 0 — SO — 116 + 80 0 4* 2 94 + 58 — 21 54 + 17 — 62 — 69 + 33 — 46 — 59 + 23 — 57 — 412 + 376 + 296 + 3T 70 — 107 4 9 + IS 40 + 3 — 76 — 66 + 30 — 50 — 28 5 — 42 — 121 — 10 61 + 25 — 55 — 30 — 49 — 21 66 4 44 50 4- 14 — 66 4

+ — + + + — + + + + + + + + +

75 4* 4 70 76 60

— + + +

62

+ —

40 26 52

9S

7?j

5:

-

10-

9* 5f :

(

4:

21

.

31

*

5f

(

3.

*


and for book-packets 10 paras for the same weight. Post-cards cost 20 paras. Parcels not exceeding 6Y2 Iks. in weight may be sent to (17). Post

the countries of the union for 11 piastres tariff. Post-office orders, see p. 3. The Egyptian Telegraph System, the various lines of which are about 3750 English miles in length, extends northwards as far as Palestine, and southwards along the Nile to Khartum, a town at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile, w hence a line diverges to Kassala, and another by Kordofan to Dar-Fur (comp. Map, All the larger towns in the Delta have telegraph-offices, p. 30). and even the Fayum is included in the system. Telegrams to Alexandria, Cairo, Isma iliya, Port Sa id, and Suez may be sent in English, French, or Italian, but Arabic must be used for messages to all the smaller stations. Within Egypt the Egyptian telegraph must be used (5 piastres tariff per 10 words), but telegrams to Europe should be sent by the English wires, via Malta, and certainly not by the Egyptian, via Constantinoiile, a provokingly dilatory route. The following is the tariff of the English telegraph each word (not exceeding ten letters if longer, it is reckoned as two words) to Austria, France, or Germany Is. 8cZ. to London Is. 10 d. to other parts of Great Britain Is. 11 d. to Italy Is. 5 d.\ to 7

r

r

:

;

;

;

;

America

2s.

2 d.

Weights and Measures. grammes 60. 05 grains troy

(18).

Dirhem grammes 1

=

3. 93

=

= avoirdupois (about kilogrammes = (about 2 = 44. kilogrammes — 101. 1 0131 Iks. 2. 7274 lbs. .

1 lb.

5

Ys

1 rotl

02 -)?

= 445. 1 okka =

4C

=

11 Y2 oz.) 1 kantar 100 rotl 540 31 lbs. (about 101 lbs. 5 oz.). The usual weight of a bale of wool in Egypt is about 282 kilo1.237

grammes,

or

5Y2 cwt.

lbs.

;

GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICE.

=

— = =

29

=

= =

Rulra 3. 75 litres 1 wdbeh 30 litres 6^/2 pints 2 7 webeh 210 litres 46 gals. l 3 / 5 qt. 6 gals. 2 /5 qts.; 1 ardeb O.0 7 metre 1 Pik 26.37 inches; 1 pik, land measurement, 11 ft. 29.527 (about 29 V2) inches; 1 kassaba 8.55 metres 7. 763 (about 11 ft. 7 3 / 4 0 inches. 1 Feddan 4200 square metres about 5082 sq. yds. 1

=

=

=

=

=

=

1^20

;

—

=

acre.

II.

Geographical and Political Notice. By

Dr. Schweinfurth of Cairo.

Boundaries and Area (comp. Map, p. 30). The countries subject to the supremacy of the Khedive embrace by far the greater part of N.E. Africa, or nearly the whole of the territory adjacent to the Nile. The natural boundaries of the vassal kingdom founded by Mohammed Ali and bequeathed by him to his successor in 1848 are formed by the Mediterranean Sea on the N., the Libyan Desert on the W., the Red Sea on the E., and Abyssinia, which may be called the Quito of Africa, on the S.E. These boundaries include Egypt Proper, with the five oases of the Libyan desert and part of the peninsula of Sinai, the Nubian Talley of the Nile, with the Nubian desert regions, and lastly the so-called Egyptian Sudan, which consists of the districts of Taka Senndr and Kordofdn. The Khedive Isma il, whose dominions were secured to him as a fief hereditary in the male line, extended his boundaries still farther to the S., S.E., and S.W. Thus he purchased Sauakin and Masau'a on the Red Sea, and Zela' and Berbera on the Gulf of Aden, four important seaports and commercial places, together with the coast districts adjoining them, which formerly belonged directly to the Turkish government and in the same way he acquired part of the coast of the Somali extending to the equator, a district replete with still untouched natural treasures. The districts of the Bogos and Galabat on the frontiers of Abyssinia have been occupied with a view to protect important commercial routes, and together with the Somali territory of Harar have been annexed to the Egyptian empire. Bar-Fur once an entirely independent principality in the Mohammedan Sudan, and the terror of its neighbours, has lately been conquered by the Egyptians, and the empire of the Khedive has thus been increased by four very populous provinces, while Mohammed Ali, who was less fortunate in his designs on that region, succeeded in gaining possession of Kordofan only, the E. part of it. Bogos, Galabat, and the other provinces adjoining the N. frontier of Abyssinia are, however, constantly exposed to the inroads of their warlike neighbours, and it will probably be impossible in the long run to resist the importunate demand of the Abyssinian monarch for their restitution. The rebellion which broke out in most of the Mahommedan provinces of the Egyptian Sudan in 1883 threatens to entail the entire loss of IsmaTl’s acquisitions to the S. of Egypt proper. f

,

,

r

r

;

,

,

r

GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICE.

30

Frontiers.

The boundaries of Egypt in a clue S. direction were still more boldly extended by IsmaTl. They now comprise the whole course of the White Nile and the greater part of the river region of the Bahr el-Ghazal where merchants from Khartum had already for ,

many

years possessed settlements and by force of arms had subdued the negro tribes. At the time of Mohammed Ali’s death the S. boundary of the Egyptian dominions on the White Nile was formed by the corn-magazines of El-Esh and the wharves near it, situated about 13° N. latitude, while it now extends to the military station of Fauira (on the river connecting the Victoria and the Albert Nyanza), situated about 2°N. latitude, so that the whole length of the empire is now about 2000 English miles. The S. frontier, from Dar-Fur to Berbera, a distance of 1560 M., now almost entirely surrounds the kingdom of Abyssinia. Down to 1883 the whole of the vast territory within these boundaries was, nominally at least, immediately subject to the Khedive, though but sparsely occupied by his comparatively small army, and it contained no tributary peoples mediately subject to him. These enormous tracts, on the other hand, are utterly disproportionate to the population, the desert regions are immeasurably more extensive than the fertile districts, and the barbarous and unprofitable inhabitants far more numerous than the civilised and wealth-producing. The geographer and the political economist therefore would vary widely in their description of the real boundaries of the country. The country which (until the most recent events) owned no other master than the Khedive or his representatives is of immense extent, but the cultivable part of Egypt, which forms the sole source of its wealth, is of very limited area. The extensive dominions of the Khedive which lie to the S. of Egypt proper are still entirely profitless, and hence it was that IsmaTl did his utmost to extend the commerce in this direction, and to improve the means of communication. r

Thus while Egypt is nominally as extensive as two-thirds of Russia in Europe, it shrinks to the size of Belgium when the Valley of the Nile, its only productive part, inhabited by a tax-paying population, is alone taken into consideration. The total area of the empire is fully one and a quarter million square miles, including that part of the Libyan Desert which falls within the western boundary drawn from the oasis of Siwa to the west end of DarEur, and which alone measures 525,000 sq. M. in extent. On the other hand Egypt proper, extending towards the desert so far only as it is irrigated by the fertilising Nile, the ‘Bilad Mask’ (the Misraim of the Bible), though 550 M. in length, is the narrowest country in the world. The area of this cultivable tract, which has remained unaltered since the remotest antiquity, is about 11,342 sq.M. only (or 21 sq. M. less than Belgium), excluding Wadi Haifa and the other districts above Assuan. In 1882 Amici Bey calculated the entire in-

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NAMES OF KINGS.

120 Merenptah

Ramses

VIII.

0

20.

I.

(Menephthes).

19.

Ramses IX. (Leps. Ramses X. (Leps. Ramses XI.) 20. Ramses IX.) 20.

Ramses

III.

20.

Ramses VII.

20.

Ramses XI. (Leps. Ramses XII.) 20.

NAMES OF KINGS.

Uahphi’ahet phris.

(IJa-

I-Iophrah). 26.

Amenrut (Amyrteeus). 28.

Ptolemy

II.

121

Kambatet Ntariush AahmesII. (Ama- (Cambyses) (Darius). sis).

26.

Nekht-nebf

Alexander

I.

I.

27.

Philip.-

pus

(Xectanebus). 30.

Philadelphus

27.

32.

33.

An-

deeus. 32.

rish

Darius. (Xerxes). 27.

27.

ptolmis (Ptolemy .

Soter). 33.

I.

NAMES OF KINGS.

122

Ptolemy tes

Euerge-

III. I.

33.

Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II.

(Physcon).

Queen Berenice II.

Ptolemy IV. Philopator

33.

Seven Ptolemaic princesses of

33.

tlie

name

I.

Ptolemy V. Epi-

33.

Ptolemy X. Soter or Philometor II.

phanes.

II

known as Lathvrus. 33.

usually

33.

Cleopatra VI.,

mistress of Caesar and

Anto-

A

^

c NAMES OF

Cleopatra VI., with Caesarion, her son by Caesar, and

nominal co-regent.

123

KINGS.

33.

Autocrator (absolnte

Cleopatra

Z)

and her son Caesarion,

monarch) and

Kisaros (Caesar). Epithets of all the emperors. 34.

rN °

s

emphasised

k

S\

En

as in English.

s

Sad

r

r.

z

14

.

French or German

3

Sliin

18

pronounced d or z.

)

13

•

the

ch.

8

10

em-

c

t

s.

both emphasised by pressing the tongue firmly against the palate.

an emphatic «, now pronounced like No. li or No. 15. a strong and very peculiar guttural. a guttural

resembling a strong French or

19

Glien

20

Fe

f

as in English.

21

Kaf Kaf

k k

emphasised guttural &, replaced by the natives of Lower Egypt, and particularly by the Cairenes, by a kind of hiatus or

22 23 24

t

1

6

Lam Mim

g-li

German

r.

repression of the voice.

1

m i*

26

Nun He

27

Wau

25

28

Ye

o a

h

•>

w

L5

Accentuation.

em ug

n ,

as in English.

y

If a word terminates with a long syllable in a consonant (indicated by a circumflex accent oyer the

;

,

:

191

ARABIC LANGUAGE.

vowel), or with, a syllable ending in a double consonant, the accent is placed on the last syllable (as in maghndtis badingdn afmdz each of which has the stress on the last syllable). ketebt, taghtdmm If the last syllable has any other form, i. e. if it terminates in a vowel only, or in a consonant preceded by a short vowel, the accent in the case of a dissyllable is on the first syllable (as in gezmeh burnus fursha redi), and in the case of a trisyllable or polysyllable on the third syllable from the end (as mdrmala mdhbara mddeneh), except when the penultimate is a long syllable (as in sibdnikh ), in which case the accent is on that syllable. Address. The inhabitants of towns use the 2nd person plural in ador a periphrasis such as gendbak (your honour), hadressing a person dretak (your presence), or to a patriarch ghubtatkum to a pasha sa'adetak. Yd sidi (0 sir) is also frequently used, and to Europeans, ya khawdgeh. Possessives. These are expressed by means of affixes. Thus, binti, my daughter ; bintak ( ik when the person addressed is feminine), thy daughter; bintu his daughter; binthd or bintahd her daughter; bintnd or bintind our daughter; bintJcum or bintuicum your (pi. 1) daughter bintuhum their daughter. The idea of possession is colloquially expressed by the use of the word beta f (‘property’), as el J abd betdH my slave (‘the ,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

;

,

,

,

slave

,

my

property’). Article. The definite article el or al is assimilated before sibilants, and the letters n and r thus, esh-shems the sun, etc.

dentals,

,

Demonstratives. In Egypt the word ‘this’ is rendered by de, fern. di ; as er-rdgil de this man; el-bint di, this girl. The Beduins use the old Arabic and Syrian hddci. ‘These’, ddl. ‘That’, dikha , duklia dukhauwa , dikhaiya; plural dukhamma. Relative elli, omitted after substantives used in a general sense. ,

,

:

Interbogatives. Who, min what, eh, esh. Declension. The substantive is not declinable. The genitive of a substantive is formed by simply placing it immediately after the subthe latter being deprived of its article stantive to be qualified thus, ibn el-bdsha the son of the pasha. The feminine terminations a, e, i are in such cases changed into at, et it: thus mara wife; marat el-kddi, the wife of the judge. Dual. The dual termination is §n fern, eten: thus seneh year; riglen, two feet. seneten, two years rigl, foot Plural. In the masculine the termination is in (as felldhin, peasThe ants); in the feminine at (as hdra, town, quarter, etc., pi. hdrdt). plural is, however, usually formed by a radical change of the vowel sounds of the singular, the change being effected in thirty or forty different ways, so that it becomes necessary for the learner to note carefully the plural form of every substantive: thus, 'am, spring, pi. uydn ; tdgir merchant, pi. tug g dr; gebel mountain, pi gibdl; kabileh, tribe of Beduins, :

,

,

,

,

,

;

;

r

,

.

,

pi. kabdil.

Verbs. Many of the verbs consist of slightly differing cognate roots, connected somewhat in the same manner as the English verbs lay and lie. Each verb consists of a perfect and present inrperfect tense an imperative, a participle, and an infinitive. The above remarks are made merely in order to afford a slight idea of the structure of the language, the difficulties of which are such that few persons will venture to encounter them, unless they make a prolonged stay in the country. should, however, re,

We

commend

the traveller to

commit

and phrases of everyday occurrence, prove useful.

to

a

memory the following words knowledge of which will often

VOCABULARY.

192

Arabic Vocabulary.

— el-divwel the — wahed wahdeh auwaleh — etnen tdni the second two — etnen tdniyeh — the third three — arba four — arba the fourth — rabe — khdmis — khamseh khams the khamseh — — the sixth sddseh six — seventh — sabe seven the eight — temdnyeh teman tdmneh the eighth — tdmin — — ninth nine the — — ashara ten dshra asher the tenth — — 100 11 hadasher miyeh; before nouns, mit. 200 — miten 12 — etndsher 300 — tultemiyeh 13 — 14 — arbatasher 400 — amiy — 15 500 — klmmsemiyeh khamstdsher 16 — 600 — suttemiyeh — 17 700 — amiy d 18 — temantdsher 800 — tumnemiyeh 19 — 900 — tus amiyeh atdsher — 20 1000 — alf — 30 2000 — alfen — 40 3000 — arba in alaf 50 — khamsin 4000 — arbat alaf 5000 — khamast alaf 60 — 70 — 100,000 — mit in — 80 temdnin 90 — in 1,000,000 — milyun — nuss — marra half once marra — third nob a — a — marraten fourth twice — — marrdt three fourths nuss u a four times — arba marrdt khums — suds times sixth khams khamas marred — times seventh marred — tumn seven times an eighth a marrdt — eight times ninth teman marrdt — ushr nine times tenth a marrdt one

fern,

,

first

;

fern, el-

,

or el-ula.

fern,

,

teldteh

teldt

,

tdlet

;

a,

•

tdlleh

,

rdb' eh

,

-

five

fifth

,

,

sitteh ,

sadis,

sitt

seb'

sab' a,

sab' eh

a.

,

-

:

,

•

,

tis a,

tis'

r

r

tdse

;

r

tds eh

,

r

ashir

;

'

-

telatasher

rub'

eh

sub'

eh

sittasher sab' at

tis

'

sher

c

ishrin

teldtin

telat

sittin

sab'

alf

-

tis'

•

wall deb,

a

or

thrice

a

tult

a

rub'

rub'

teldt

r

a fifth

•

five

(

-

six

•

a

)

a

sitt ( sitteh )

sub' eh

seb'

a

tus'

eh

1

a

tis

ten times

'

ashara marrdt

The substantives following numerals above ten are used in the singular; thus: 4 piastres, arba' kurush 100 piastres, nut kirsh. I, ana ; thou, inteh fern, enti he, huweh she, hiyeh we, ehna ; ye or you, entu, or entum they, hum or huma. Yes, eywa to be sure, nabam no, Id no, I will not, la, mush ,•

,

,

not necessary, mush lazim ; not, md ; nothing, md fish; I will, ana b iddi wilt thou, biddak ; biddina will you, biddukum.

'duz, or 'aiz

it is

there is

we wi

11,

;

.

;

;

; ;; ;

; ; ;

;;

;;

;; ;;

;

;

; ;

;

;

;

;;

;;

; ; ;;

;; ;

;

;; ; ; ;

;

193

VOCABULARY. ana rdih ; I will you not go,

shall go,

I go,

ruh

;

See, shiif

I

md

ana ardh

teruh

have seen,

;

we

;

shall go, neriih

;

go,

go ye, ruku.

;

shuft.

I do not speak Arabic, ana md betkallimspeak, betkallim shi bil-arabi; what is your name, ismak e. I drink, bashrab ; I have drunk, ana shiribt ; drink, ishrab.

I

we

kul T

anabdkul

eat,

I

have ridden,

I start,

have eaten, ana kalt

I

eat,

will eat, biddina ndkul.

He sleeps, bindm am resting, besterih I

anawdkil;

or

,

ana

he

,

now

asleep,

huweh ndim get up, kumu

;

or bastaraiyah.

rikibt

besdfir

is

;

I

mount, barkab

;

I

mount, arkab

will

;

or musafir.

am

coming, ana gdi come, ta dleh ta'dla or ta'dl. To-day, en-nahdr-deh to-morrow, bukra the day after to-morthe day before yesterday, yesterday, embdreh row, ba'deh bukra I

r

,

,

auwel embdreli.

Much

shuwaiyeh ( shwaiyeh,); good, tayyib ; not good, mush tayyib ; very good, tayyib ketir; slow, slower shwaiyeh shwaiyeh 'ala mahlak ; go on, yallah yallah. How much, kdm; for how much, bikam enough, bess how or very, ketir

a little,

:

,

,

many

kam

hours,

sa'a. r

For what purpose, min-shdn-eh or ala- shdn- eh no matter, md This last is a favourite expression with the Arabs, who use alesh ' it to express indifference and also as an apologetic interjection. Everything, kull together, sawa sawa; every, kull wahed one after the other, wahed wahed. Here, heneh (Syrian hon) come here, ta'dla heneh come from ,

,

min heneh ; there, hencik (Syrian honlk) above, fok ; over, 'ala; deep, ghamik ghawU below, taht near, far, ba'id kuraiyib inside, guwwa; outside, barra where, fen (pronounced by the Beduins wen ) yet, lissa not yet, md lissa (with a verb) when, emta; after, ba'd; later, afterwards, ba'den; never, abadan always, ddiman tamalli; perhaps, belki, yumkin or yimkin. Old, kebir 'atikkadim; deceitful, khdin; intoxicated, sakrdn\ blind, a'ma stupid, awkward, ghashtm strange, lazy, kesldn gharib ; healthy, saUm, sagh salim tayyib bis-sahha or mabsut (also ‘contented’) hungry, gi'dn small sughayyar short, kusayyar ; long, taw’ll; untruthful, kadddb ; tired, ta'bdn satisfied, shab'dn; weak, da'lf; dead, meyyit mad, magnun (Syrian mejnun ) trustworthy, arnln. here, ta'dleh

;

,

;

;

,

,

,

;

,

,

,

;

murr sour, hdmed sweet, helu. Broad, 'arid; narrow, dayyik; large, azim kebir; hot (weather)^ harr, (of food, etc.) sulchn high, 'dli; empty, khdii fddi new, bad, battdl dirty, wusekh gedid low, wditi dear, ghdli. White, abyad black, dark, iswid red, ahmar yellow, asfar; blue, azrak; green, akhdar. Bitter,

r

,

,

Hour, sd'a; what o’clock Baedekkr’s Egypt

I.

is it, es-sd'a

2nd Ed.

kdm;

it is

3 o’clock, es-

13

VOCABULARY.

194 sd'a telateh

half past 4,

it is

es-sd'a cirba'

khamseh ilia rub'a. Forenoon, dahd noon, duhr

unuss

it

is

a quarter

to 5, es-sd'a set), 'asr

night,

afternoon (2^2 hours before sun-

midnight, nuss-el-lel. nehdr el-had Monday,

lei

Sunday, yom Tuesday, yom et-teldt yom el-khamis Friday,

yom

el-had,

es-sebt.

Yom

yum

or

Wednesday,

yom

el-etnen

Thursday, yom el-gum' a; Saturday, or Sabbath, yom (day) is generally omitted. Week, gum' a el-arba'

pi. ushhur. Instead of the Arabic names of the months used in Syria, the Egyptians employ the Coptic (ancient Egyptian) names of the solar months, which, however, are always about nine days behind the European months. Each Coptic month has thirty days, and in order to complete the year five or six intercalary days are added at the end (in the beginning of September). The European names, however, are gradually coming into general use.

month, shahr

English

Syrian

,

March

April

May

June

shobdt

addr

nisan

eydr

haziran

febratr

mares

abril

mayeh

yunia

bashens

barm a

January February

kanUn et-tdni

European yenair

baramhdt barmddeh

Coptic

tuba

amshir

English

July

August

September

Syrian

tamtiz

db

dldl

tishrin el-aunoel

tishrin et-tdni

el-awwel

aghostds

sebtember

oktdber

november

dezember

baba

hatdr

Tci&lik

European Coptic

ydlia ( Idliyeh )

misra

ebib

ttit

The intercalary days (which come

October November December

after Misra) are called

kdndn

ayyam

en-nesi.

The Muslim months form a lunar year only (comp. p. 149). Their names are Moharrem Safar RaM' el-Awwel RabY et- Tdni Gemdd el-Awwel Gemad et- Tdni Regeb Sha'bdn Ramadan (month of fasting), Shawwal Dhil-Ki'de Dhil-Higgeh (montli of :

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

the pilgrimage).

Winter, shita; summer, sef; spring, rabT; autumn, khartf rain, malar; snow, telg air, Tiawa. Heaven, sema moon, kamar new moon, hildl full moon, bedr sun, shems sunrise, tulu' esh-shems sunset, maghreb ; star,

nigm

,

pi.

nugum;

East, sherk north, sliemdl.

Father, ab y

constellation, kaulcab. west, gharb south, kibla

or,

kibli,

kubli

mother,

umm

southern,

before genitives and affixes, abd

;

;

;;;;; ; ;

; ; ; ;;;;,

;

; ;;

;;

;

;; ;

;; ;;; ;

;

;;

; ;; ;

; ;

;;

;

;

;

;;;;

, ; ;

195

VOCABULARY.

I

;;;;

son, ibn, ox weled pi. xilad daughter, [bint, pi. bendt; grandmother, gidda or sitt brother, akh before genitives and affixes akhu pi. ikhwdn sister, ukht pi. ukhwdt parents, ab u umm, or wdliden ; woman, mara hurmeli women, harim niswan hoy, weled youth, fellow, gada', pi. gid'dn; man, rdgel pi. rig die perpi. nds or son, insdn ddarn (sons of Adam),- friend, hablb sdheb, pi. aslidb ; neighbour, gar, pi. girdn bride, 'arus; bridegroom, ‘arts ; wedding, rwrs. Cord for fastening the kuffiyeh, 'okdl; cloak, 'abdyeh; fez, larbush ; felt cap, libdeh; girdle, hezdm leathern girdle, kamar trousers (wide), shirwdl trousers (of women), shintydn European trousers, bantalun; long white blouse, galabtyeh; jacket, waistcoat, ,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

,

r

anteri dressing-gown, kuftdn coat (European), sitra skull-cap, takiyeh silk, harir; boot, gezma slipper, babdg shoe, marlcub, sarma wooden shoe, kabkdb stocking, shurdb turban, salta

,

'emma. Eye, riglen

;

f

en,

r

hair, sha'r

right hand,

beard dakn, leliyeh foot, rigl, dual yedd, id, dual iden my hands, ideyyeh left hand, shemdl palm of the hand, keff fist,

dual enen

yemin

;

hand

,

,•

,

head, rds; mouth, fumm moustache, sheneb. Diarrhoea, ishdl fever, sukhuna, homma China, kina; quinine, melh el-klna; opium, afiydn pain, wag r a. Abraham, Ibrahim; Gabriel, Gabridn, Gebrall, Gubrdn George, Girgis; Jesus, Seyyidna Isa (the Mohammedan name), Yesu' el-Meslh (used by the Christians ) John, Hanna; Joseph, Yusuf, Yusef Mary, Maryam; Moses, Musa; Solomon, Selimdn, Islemdn. American, Amerikdni, Malekdni Arabian, arabi Arabs (nomads), 'Arab; Austria, Bildd Nemsa Austrian, Nemsdwi Beduin, Iiedawi, pi. Bedwdin 'Arab, ' Orbdn Cairo, Masr, Medlnet Masr; Constantinople, Istambul; Egypt, Bildd Masr Egyptians (noil-nomadic

kabda

c

'

,

Arabs), Uldd'Arab; England, Bildd el- Ingillz English, Ingillzi; Erance, Feransa Erank (i. e. European), Ferangi, Afranki, pi. Afrank; French, Feransdwi Germany, Alemdnia German, AleItaly, Bildd Italia Greek, Rdmi mdtni Russia, Greece, Rum Bildd el-Moskof; Russian, Moskuwi, Moskufi Switzerland, Switzera; Syria, Esh-Shdm; Turkish, Turki. Saint (Mohammedan), wall, weli St. George (Christian), Girgis cl-kaddls, mar Girgis prophet, nebi, or (applied to Mohammed) rasdl.

Army, 'askar baker, khabbdiz farrdn ; barber, halldk, mozeyyin Beduin chief, sketch el-' Arab ; bookseller, Icutbi; butcher, gezzdr caller to prayer, mueddin (jp. 147); consul, konsul consul’s servant ;

(gensdarme), kawwds ruktshi

doctor,

;

,

custom-house officer, gumhukama dragoman, turgemdnfp. 13); goldsmith, sdigh judge, kadi money-changer,

hakim

cook, tabbdkh;

,

plur.

gatekeeper, bawwdb ; sarrdf pilgrim (to Mecca), hagg (Syrian hdjji ), plur. hegdg ; police, zabtiyeh porter, hammdl, sheyydl robber, hardmi, plur. /u/rd-

13 *

VOCABULARY.

196 scholar,

rrilyeh

khadddm

r

diem plnr. ulama f

schoolmaster, filuh ; servant, teacher, mo'allim

,

kheyyat washer, ghassdl

soldier, 'askari;

tailor,

village-chief, shehh el-beled

watchman, ghafir

,

plnr. ghufara.

Apricot, mishmish; banana, moz; heans (garden), ful (lupins) lubiyeh citrons or lemons, Umun cotton, kotn dates, balcih datepalm, nakhleh figs, tin; flower (blossom), zahr, plur. azhar garlic, r melons (water), battikh (yellow) kdturn; grapes, unab 'enctb ftasa? ; oranges, bortukdn wtin shamdm olives, zetun onions plums, berkuk (Syrian dorrak) pistachios, peach, khokh fustuk St. John’s tree (carob), (Syrian khukh); pomegranate, rumman ashgdr. tree (shrub), shagara plur. kharrub Brandy, 'araki; bread, es/i (Syrian khubz ) bread, loaf of, cigarette-paper, warakat sigdra coffee, raghif plur. aghrifeh kahwa ; egg, &ed, (boiled) bed masluk, (baked) bedmakli; honey, 'asal; milk, leben, (fresh) leben haltb (sour) Zedm helmed oil, zet pepper, filfil; poison, simm; rice, rws; salt, meZ/i; sugar, sukkar water, moyeh wine, nebtd. Book, kitab plur. fcwtwft ; letter, gewab maktub. Carpet, siggdda busat chair (stool), kursi, plur. kerdsi gate, M&", bawwdba ; hospital, isbitdlia house, &ef, plur. biyut minaret. mddana; monastery, der, (of dervishes) tekiyeh mosque, gdmV prayer-niche malirdb ; pulpit mambcir (or more rarely mesgid) mirnbar room, oda ; sofa, dlwan ; straw-mat, hastra table, stt/ra ; tent, khema plur. khiyam (Beduins’) r es/is/ia, tent-peg, watad r plur. autdd tent-pole amud ; tomb fcadr, plur. kubur window, shibbdk plur. shebakik or taka. Bridle glass (for ligdm candle sham? a dagger, khangar drinking), kubdyeh gun, bundukiyeh gunpowder, bdrud knife, sikkineh; lantern, fdnus luggage, 'afsh; pistol, tabanga ferd; rope, habl saddle, serp ; saddle-bag, khurg stick asdyeh ; stirrup, rikdb, plur. rikdbdt sword, se/ Bath (warm), hammdm cistern, salmg fountain (public), se6