Dressing the Scottish Court, 1543-1553: Clothing in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland 1783272627, 9781783272624

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MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

DRESSING THE SCOTTISH COURT, 1543–1553

MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE CLOTHING AND TEXTILES ISSN 2044–351X Series Editors Robin Netherton Gale R. Owen-Crocker This series focuses on the study and interpretation of dress and textiles throughout England and Europe, from the early medieval period to the sixteenth century. It seeks to bring together research from a wide variety of disciplines, including language, literature, art history, social history, economics, archaeology, and artifact studies. The editors welcome submissions that combine the expertise of academics working in this area with the more practically based experience of re-enactors and re-creators, offering fresh approaches to the subject. The series is associated with the annual journal Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Proposals or queries should be sent in the first instance to the editors or to the publisher, at the addresses given below; all submissions will receive prompt and informed consideration. Robin Netherton, [email protected] Professor Gale R. Owen-Crocker, [email protected] Boydell & Brewer Limited, PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk

Previous volumes in this series: I The Troyes Mémoire: The Making of a Medieval Tapestry Translated by Tina Kane II Medieval Dress and Textiles in Britain: A Multilingual Sourcebook Edited by Louise M. Sylvester, Mark C. Chambers and Gale R. Owen-Crocker

D R E SSI N G T H E S COT T I SH CO U RT, 15 43– 1553 CLOT H I N G I N T H E A CCO U N TS O F T H E LO R D H I G H T R E A SU R E R O F SCOT L A N D

M E L A N I E S CH U E SSL E R B O N D

THE BOYDELL PRESS

© Melanie Schuessler Bond 2019

All Rights Reserved. Except as permitted under current legislation no part of this work may be photocopied, stored in a retrieval system, published, performed in public, adapted, broadcast, transmitted, recorded or reproduced in any form or by any means, without the prior permission of the copyright owner The right of Melanie Schuessler Bond to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

First published 2019 The Boydell Press, Woodbridge

ISBN 978-1-78327-262-4

The Boydell Press is an imprint of Boydell & Brewer Ltd PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 3DF, UK and of Boydell & Brewer Inc. 668 Mt Hope Avenue, Rochester, NY 14620-2731, USA website: www.boydellandbrewer.com

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

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This publication is printed on acid-free paper Typeset by Sparks Publishing Services Ltd – www.sparkspublishing.com

Contents List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction Organization and Conventions

vii ix 1 15

Pa rt I: Ga r m e n ts 1 Men’s Garments 2 Women’s Garments 3 Specialty Garments, Transport, and Cleaning

27 78 123

Pa rt II: Wa r drobe Bio gr a p hie s 4 James Hamilton: Earl of Arran, Duke of Châtellerault, and Lord Governor of Scotland 147 5 Men and Boys of the Court 279 6 Women and Girls of the Court 381 7 People Serving the Court and the Regent 520 8 Servants to Others and Miscellaneous People 607

A ppe n dice s 1 Sample Precept by the Earl of Arran 2 A Letter on Margaret Douglas’s Wardrobe 3 Sumptuary Legislation Concerning Apparel in Scotland in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries

v

653 657 659

4 References to Clothing in Scottish Poetry

663

R ef e r e nce s Glossary Bibliography

681 685

In de xe s A General Index to the Text B Index of People and Professions C Index of Record Numbers



697 708 714

vi

List of Illustrations 1 Scottish treasurer’s accounts, October 1546 3 2 Partial Hamilton family tree 5 3 James V, from the Seton Armorial (1591) 30 4 Simon George of Cornwall, by Hans Holbein the younger (ca. 1535–40) 33 5 Hector Boece (ca. 1530) 37 6 Will Somers, from The Psalter of Henry VIII (ca. 1538–47) 39 7 Detail of The Field of Cloth of Gold (1545) 40 8 George Wishart (1543) 46 9 Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, by Hans Eworth (1555) 47 10 Detail of The Wedding Dance, by Pieter Bruegel the Elder (ca. 1566) 51 11 Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley, and his brother Charles Stewart, Earl of Lennox, by Hans Eworth (1563) 54 12 Detail of wall painting, Kinneil House, Parable Room (ca. 1550) 55 13 Detail of wall painting, Kinneil House, Parable Room (ca. 1550) 55 14 King James I of England and VI of Scotland (1574) 60 15 Linen shirt (ca. 1540) 62 16 Knitted and felted bonnet (ca. 1500–50) 65 17 Margaret Tudor with a nobleman (possibly Henry Stewart, first Lord Methven) and a servant (ca. 1535–40) 79 18 Marie de Guise (1539) 83 19 Lady Helen Leslie, Wife of Mark Ker, attributed to Willem Key (1551) 84 20 Portrait of a Woman (ca. 1540–50) 86 21 Portrait of a Young Woman, workshop of Hans Holbein the Younger (ca. 1540–45) 88 22 Wooden carved head from Stirling Castle depicting a woman in a smock (ca. 1535–40) 106 23 Wooden carved head from Stirling Castle depicting a woman in a French hood (ca. 1535–40) 112 24 Mary Stewart, by François Clouet (ca. 1549) 113 25 Textile and metal jack or brigandine (ca. 1540–50) 124

v ii

26 Depiction of a mourner, by François Deserps (1562) 2 7 English archer in heraldic display livery (ca. 1540)

133 139

The author and publisher are grateful to all the institutions and individuals listed for permission to reproduce the materials in which they hold copyright. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders; apologies are offered for any omission, and the publisher will be pleased to add any necessary acknowledgement in subsequent editions.



v iii

Acknowledgements Many thanks to The National Records of Scotland for making these manuscripts available and to the NRS staff for their professionalism, patience, and helpfulness. Thanks also to Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, who originally pointed me in the direction of these manuscripts. Dr. Don Ritzenhein was instrumental in finding funding for this publication, and a generous grant from the Josephine Nevins Keal Professional Development Fund at Eastern Michigan University subsidized the image reproduction costs. My personal thanks go to Jeremy Gibson Bond and Linda Schuessler for their time and energy reading and commenting on the drafts and to them and Norm Schuessler for their unwavering belief in me. I also very much appreciate the support of my colleagues, School Directors, and Deans over the course of years. And finally, I owe a large debt of gratitude to Gale Owen-Crocker and Robin Netherton for their support, encouragement, and mentorship as well as the many hours spent on reviewing the manuscript. Without them, this book would never have seen the light of day.



ix

Introduction

A

lthough Scotland has long had a romanticized place in the public imagination, limited published scholarship currently exists concerning the clothing of the Scottish lowlands in the sixteenth century. Most authors have focused on highland dress and the question of the kilt (when it originated, how it was worn, and most importantly, whether clan tartans can be traced back before the eighteenth century).1 The scholarly community seems to agree that there was a difference in fashions between the lowlands and the highlands, and this is supported by a letter written by a priest to Henry VIII in 1542, in which he explains how the practice of going bare-legged outdoors in the highlands had led to Scots from that region being known as “red-shanks.” He follows with this caveat: And althoughe a greate sorte of us Reddshankes go after this manner in our countrethe, yeit never the les, and pleas your Grace, whene we come to the courte (the Kinges grace our great master beinge alyve) waitinge on our Lordes and maisters, who also, for velvettis and silkis be right well araide, we have as good garmentis as some of our fellowis whiche gyve attendaunce in the court every daye.2

A few articles and chapters do deal with lowland dress in this period. For example, three articles focus on the clothing of specific people,3 a chapter revolves around a particular accessory,4 and another article discusses makers and the system of production.5  1

See, for example, John Telfer Dunbar, History of Highland Dress (Edinburgh: Oliver and Boyd, 1962); Dunbar, The Costume of Scotland (London: B. T. Batsford Ltd, 1981); and H. F. McClintock, Old Irish and Highland Dress, and That of the Isle of Man, 2nd and enlarged ed. (Dundalk, Ireland: Dundalgan Press, 1950).  2 Dunbar, Costume of Scotland, 25. Dunbar also notes that royal inventories of the sixteenth century describe certain items with the adjective “hieland” to distinguish them from the rest of the wardrobe (24–25).  3 Rosalind K. Marshall, “‘Hir Rob Ryall’: The Costume of Mary of Guise,” Costume 12 (1978): 1–12; Marshall, “‘To be the Kingis Grace ane Dowblett’: The Costume of James V, King of Scots,” Costume 28 (1994): 14–21; Michelle L. Beer, “‘Translating’ a Queen: Material Culture and the Creation of Margaret Tudor as Queen of Scots,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 10 (2014): 151–64.  4 Helen Bennett, “The Scots Bonnet,” in From the Stone Age to the ’Forty-Five: Studies Presented to R. B. K. Stevenson, Former Keeper, National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland, ed. Anne O’Connor and D. V. Clarke (Edinburgh: John Donald, 1983), 546–66.  5 Margaret H. B. Sanderson, “Clothing Sixteenth-Century Scotland: Crafts, Clothes, and Clients,” Review of Scottish Culture 22 (2010): 35–51.

2

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

Pictorial and documentary evidence about clothing in sixteenth-century Scotland is scarce as well, especially compared to sources regarding England. Few portraits survive,6 mostly due to Scotland’s political and religious upheavals and the mid-century war with England, and images of Scots by people in other countries are rare and usually unhelpful.7 In addition, many documents and images were likely lost to the vagaries of time and chance. However, one surviving source contains numerous and detailed references to clothing and textiles: the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland (fig. 1).8 These accounts report monies disbursed by the royal treasury and detail for whom and on what the money was spent. Most of the textile-related entries detail at minimum the date of purchase and the type, amount, and cost of the textile, and many also list the color, the supplier, the recipient, and the garment for which it was intended. In addition to clothing and textiles of all kinds (including bedding, ecclesiastical vestments, horse trappings, foot rugs, etc.), the Accounts record the purchase of armaments and building materials, payments to messengers and retainers, reimbursement for loss and damage, and many other types of items. Published transcriptions of some of this material already exist, of course. Sir James Balfour Paul did a great service in transcribing and publishing large portions of the manuscripts that contain the Accounts in several volumes.9 As with many historians of his day, however, his interests focused on military and political affairs and did not extend to sartorial matters. Indeed, in one preface he referred to the “multitudinous and often tiresome details” of the clothing in the Accounts.10 It is therefore perhaps not surprising that he omitted many items regarding linings, notions,11 and payments to tailors from his transcription. He also often chose not to contend with damaged portions of the manuscript that contained clothing items. In neither case did he note the omissions. In certain places, his transcription is inaccurate as well. In the vast task of transcribing these manuscripts, he may be forgiven for reading sarkis [shirts] instead of sockis [socks], for example, but he has thereby left modern readers to puzzle over how one might make multiple shirts from 1¼ ells of buckram. Presumably in the interest of making the records more accessible to modern readers, he also added punctuation, extended abbreviations, and (perhaps inadvertently) modernized spellings in some places. In addition to these challenges, modern scholars of dress must cope with the overwhelming amount of information included in the Accounts that is unrelated to clothing as well as  6

In contrast to the wealth of Holbeins from England and Clouets from France, fewer than ten portraits of Scots living in Scotland can be securely attributed to the decade between 1543 and 1553.  7 Most foreigners focused on the “savage” or highland Scots. François Deserps depicted what are probably meant to be lowland Scots in 1562, but they are somewhat fanciful in certain respects. Deserps, A Collection of the Various Styles of Clothing which are presently worn in countries of Europe, Asia, Africa, and the savage islands, all realistically depicted 1562, ed. and trans. Sara Shannon (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2001), 68–69.  8 For the years 1543–53, National Records of Scotland (Edinburgh) [henceforth NRS], E21/39–45.  9 Sir James Balfour Paul, ed., Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, vols. 2–10 (Edinburgh: H. M. General Register House, 1900–13). Accounts from the years 1543–53 appear in vol. 8 (1908), vol. 9 (1911), and vol. 10 (1913). 10 Paul, Accounts, 10:xlv. 11 The word “notions” in American English refers to fastenings, tapes, pins, thread, and similar types of items. British readers may be more familiar with the term “haberdashery.”

In tr od uction 3

Fig. 1: Scottish treasurer’s accounts, October 1546 (National Records of Scotland, E21/42/39r, detail). Published by the kind permission of the National Records of Scotland.

the chronological organization of the original records, both of which make it difficult to do more than pick out bits and pieces that may be of interest. Although Paul included an index with each segment, building a coherent picture of any particular person or topic is laborious. The language of the Accounts is also a barrier to those not familiar with sixteenth-century Scots idiom, spelling, and vocabulary, despite Paul’s helpful glossaries. In addition to the typical inconsistencies of sixteenth-century spelling, the written form of the Scots dialect uses spellings based on the pronunciation of the spoken language (such as quhilk instead of which) and contains words with no cognate in modern English (such as begary, a verb meaning to decorate or trim). The Accounts also include a wide variety of special vocabulary associated with clothing and textiles, some of which can be translated into modern English and some of which cannot.

4

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

This volume is designed to begin the process of making the rich material in the Accounts available in a form that is useful to those focused on the study of dress. It covers the period from 1543 to 1553, when James Hamilton, Second Earl of Arran, acted as regent12 for the young Mary Stewart (later known as Mary, Queen of Scots).13 Limiting the scope to this decade allows for a snapshot of clothing practices in that particular time and place. Fashion for those in the upper echelons began to change more rapidly in the mid- to late-sixteenth century, and generalizations over periods longer than a decade are not reliable. Not only does this limited scope provide a manageable, discrete set of information, it also creates an opportunity to consider recipients both individually and as part of a specific larger social and political context. This analysis includes all clothing and dress accessories, but excludes other textiles (such as bed linens) and purely ceremonial clothing (such as sets of vestments ordered for the church). Studies based on wardrobe accounts have typically focused on a single person and have therefore dealt thematically with analysis and arranged the transcription to match the source document. However, the number and variety of recipients in the Accounts make this approach less useful. In this volume, entries from the Accounts are organized by recipient, and the recipients by gender, social class, and their relationship to the Regent (if known). Because he was the catalyst, as it were, for all of the expenditure, their relationship to him must be considered (see fig. 2 for a partial family tree). Through the thousands of clothingrelated entries it is possible not only to track the wardrobes of a number of people connected to the Scottish court, but also to determine the popularity of many different garments and accessories and some details about their construction. Recipients of clothing ranged from the highest to the lowest, creating a spectrum of wardrobes and allowing for analysis of many variables. Some garments were common to all, while others were confined to the upper levels of society. Qualities and types of fabric were likewise distributed unequally. The Accounts show the social cutoff points for silk fabrics and men’s gowns, for example. Conversely, people of uncertain rank can be approximately placed in the social hierarchy based on the types of garments and fabrics they received. Certain cultural practices are also revealed by grants of clothing for such occasions as weddings and funerals, all carefully graded to the status of the recipient. In order to make the language accessible to all, modern English translations accompany all text from the Accounts. The transcription of the text is rendered as closely as possible to what is in the manuscripts (see “Notes on the Transcription,” page 00, and “Notes on the Text and Translation,” page 00). The grants of clothing in the Accounts reveal the web of relationships, both personal and political, that surrounded the Earl of Arran. These grants were not automatic but were rather actions that he took in order to fulfill his obligations or achieve his goals. Whom did he consider his dependents? Who had a claim on him as part of his larger affinity or household? 12

The Accounts consistently refer to him as the Lord Governor, Governor being the usual title for regents who stood next in line to the throne; Amy Blakeway, Regency in Sixteenth-Century Scotland (Woodbridge, UK: Boydell, 2015), 22. To avoid confusion for modern readers, the term regent is used throughout this volume in reference to the position, and “the Regent” to refer specifically to James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, for the years 1543 to 1553. 13 Although the regency lasted until 1554, the Accounts for this period end in 1553.

Fig. 2: Partial Hamilton family tree. This chart, which illustrates only some of the complexity of the Hamiltons, shows the relationships between James Hamilton, Second Earl of Arran and Lord Governor of Scotland, and his siblings and half-siblings (indicated by underscores) and their children. Not all of his many nieces and nephews are present on this chart. Dashed lines denote extramarital relationships. The names of some members of this extended network are unknown, and they are represented by question marks (each of which stands for more than one person). In several cases, multiple children of one father were given the same name, and those after the first have a number in parentheses after their name to assist in distinguishing them.

In tr od uction 5

6

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

In what ways did he use grants of clothing to further his political aims? How did the years of war during his regency affect his wardrobe? How did he try to assert his political power through clothing? This study aims to begin answering these and other questions. In order to do so, however, some understanding of the political and cultural context of Scotland at that time is vital.

PO L ITICAL AN D CULT UR AL CON TE X T Though the English thought of it as a savage backwater or at best a poor stepchild, Scotland in the midst of the sixteenth century was a separate nation with a proud tradition of monarchy and a history of court culture with links to other powerful nations on the Continent.14 Because England was next door, it probably did have some effect on Scottish fashions, and indeed, a Frenchman named Estienne Perlin traveling in 1551–52 remarked that with a few exceptions “they do not differ from the English, either in dress, conditions, and stature.”15 Scotland’s most important cultural and political alliance, however, was with France. French fashion influence was strengthened by the marriage of the Scottish King James V in 1537 to the French princess Madeleine and in 1538 to Marie de Guise, a French noblewoman who brought her tailor with her.16 Sir John Wallop wrote of James’s first wedding in France that the Scotsmen he had brought with him were “right well apparelled now after the French fashion.”17 Even before his marriages, James V had a French tailor making clothes for an illegitimate daughter,18 and he purchased fabrics and clothing from France on the occasions of both of his marriages.19 It is therefore likely that Scotland was keenly interested in French fashion. The poet Sir David Lyndsay says as much in his Tragedie of the Cardinall: Ane tailyeour, quhilk hes fosterit bene in France, That can mak garmentis, on the gayest gyse …20

[A tailor, who has been trained in France, That can make garments of the loveliest fashion …]

Scotland also had a strong trading relationship with the Low Countries and may have been influenced by styles there as well. At the death of James V in December 1542, his infant daughter Mary was too young to rule, and his wife Marie de Guise was not seen at that time as an acceptable regent.21 Next in line 14

Jon Robinson, Court Politics, Culture and Literature in Scotland and England, 1500–1540 (Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2008), 26. 15 P. Hume Brown, ed., Early Travellers in Scotland (Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1891), 76. 16 Marshall, “Hir Rob Ryall,” 3. 17 Muriel St. Clare Byrne, ed., The Lisle Letters (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1981), 4:234. 18 Paul, Accounts, 6:300. 19 Marshall, “Kingis Grace,” 18–20. 20 Sir David Lyndsay, The Poetical Works of Sir David Lyndsay, ed. David Laing, vol. 1 (Edinburgh: William Paterson, 1879), 152. 21 Jane E. A. Dawson, Scotland Re-formed 1488–1587, New Edinburgh History of Scotland 6 (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2007), 156.

In tr od uction 7

to the throne stood James Hamilton, the Earl of Arran. Through a series of closed-door deals he became regent for the young Mary in early 1543 and for the next eleven years served as the Lord Governor of Scotland.22 Several individuals and parties contested Arran’s regency initially, and they continued to apply pressure at intervals throughout his term. In addition, Scotland was periodically at war with England, which took a heavy toll on Scotland’s people, economy, and infrastructure.23 It is hard to overstate the effect that the war known as the “Rough Wooing” had on Scotland and its regent during this time. In the simplest terms, England wished to gain control of Scotland by marrying Henry VIII’s son Edward to Mary. A summary of a letter of instruction to an English envoy to Scotland from September 1547 gives a good synopsis: “To enjoin the Queen and Council [of Scotland] to deliver the young Queen to the Protector24 to be suitably nourished and brought up with her husband, as a Queen of England – as he promises to do on his honour, failing which, that he will use all means to bring it about by force.”25 Although at some points in the negotiations it seemed as though a marriage between Edward and Mary would result, in the end, hostilities prevailed and Mary eventually married the royal heir of France instead. This vastly simplified summary masks many of the realities of war, but suffice to say here that Scotland was at war for six of the twelve years of Arran’s regency.26 This destabilized the country and consumed resources, including the time and energy (and often lives) of the populace as well as their money. The Accounts record large expenditures on wages for soldiers and military craftsmen, fortifications, ships, weaponry, and ammunition as well as ancillary expenses such as transportation and messengers. Despite the chaos of war, however, the social order seems to have remained largely intact.

SUM PT UARY L AWS IN S CO TL AND The importance of appearance to maintaining social status in the Renaissance has been well established,27 and despite Scotland’s poverty, its people were concerned with fashion. Don Pedro de Ayala, who traveled to Scotland, wrote in 1498 with a certain superciliousness, “They are vain and ostentatious by nature. They spend all they have to keep up appearances. 22

24 25

Ibid., 156–57. Ibid., 174. Lord Protector Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, regent for the young King Edward VI of England. Joseph Bain, ed., Calendar of the State Papers Relating to Scotland and Mary, Queen of Scots, 1547–1603, vol. 1 (Edinburgh: HMSO, 1898), 22. 26 Marcus Merriman, The Rough Wooings: Mary Queen of Scots 1542–1551 (East Linton, UK: Tuckwell, 2000), 355. 27 See, for example, Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000), and Christopher Breward, The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1995), chapter 2. For a discussion of representation via portraiture and pageantry, see any of Roy Strong’s work, especially Splendor at Court: Renaissance Spectacle and the Theater of Power (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1973) and The Cult of Elizabeth: Elizabethan Portraiture and Pageantry (London: Thames and Hudson, 1977). 23

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They are as well dressed as it is possible to be in such a country as that in which they live.”28 The expectation that there would be a visible differentiation in dress among various classes of people is borne out by John Knox’s story of the aftermath of the Earl of Huntly’s death, in which Knox linked the Earl’s shockingly plebeian clothing with his fall from power and demise: Upon the morrow after the discomfiture, the Lady Forbes, a woman both wise and fearing God, came amongst many others to visit the corpse of the said Earl [of Huntly]; and seeing him lie upon the cold stones, having only upon him a doublet of canvas, a pair of Scottish grey hose, and a covering of arras-work, she said, “What stability shall we judge to be in this world: there lieth he that yesterday morning was holden the wisest, the richest, and a man of greatest power within Scotland.”29

The wish to preserve particular sartorial markers of status for certain classes operated in Scotland just as in many other nations. The poet Sir Richard Maitland’s admonition that ladies “weir habulȝement / According to thair stait and rent”30 [wear clothing / According to their status and income] was only one of many repetitions of this theme in his work. The formalization of this process via sumptuary laws was not so extensive in Scotland as it was in England, but sporadic legislation did address clothing.31 In 1429/30,32 the first known Scottish sumptuary law identified three groups: (1) knights and lords having at least 200 marks of yearly rent, (2) burgesses in towns, and (3) yeomen or commoners in the countryside.33 Wives were to dress according to their husband’s status. For the most part, this law was prohibitive in nature, restricting certain high-value materials and embellishments. None below the highest level of society were allowed clothes of silk or furring of marten, pured miniver, or any better fur, nor embroidery, pearl, or bullion, though they were specifically allowed gold wreaths, belts, ouches, and chains. Among the burgesses, none but aldermen, bailies, and councilmen were allowed the previously mentioned furs. Among the commons, none were allowed colored or dagged clothing longer than the knee except those riding with their gentlemen masters, but even then they were limited to narrow sleeves. The commoners’ wives were addressed specifically and were forbidden to wear long 28

Brown, Early Travellers, 44. John Knox, The History of the Reformation of Religion in Scotland, ed. Cuthbert Lennox (London: Andrew Melrose, 1905), 269. 30 Richard Maitland, The Maitland Quarto, ed. Joanna M. Martin (Woodbridge, UK: Scottish Text Society, 2015), 50. 31 Frances J. Shaw, “Sumptuary Legislation in Scotland,” Juridical Review 24 (1979): 81–115. See also J. Chisholm, “The Sumptuary Laws of Scotland,” Journal of Jurisprudence 35 (1891): 291–97; N. B. Harte, “State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-Industrial England,” in Trade, Government and Economy in Pre-Industrial England: Essays presented to F. J. Fisher, ed. D. C. Coleman and A. H. John (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1976), 132–65; and, for a large-scale overview, Alan Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (New York: St. Martin’s, 1996). Much other work has been done on sumptuary laws, both in England and elsewhere. 32 See p. 23 for an explanation of the conventions used to denote calendar years. 33 Records of the Parliaments of Scotland to 1707 [online database; henceforth RPS], http://www.rps. ac.uk, 1430/12, 1430/13, 1430/14 (accessed Oct. 11, 2017). For the full text and my own translation to modern English, see Appendix 3. 29

In tr od uction 9

trains, long-necked hoods, full sleeves, or costly kerchiefs. Punishment for infringement of the law was confiscation of the offending garment. Whereas the first law addressed visible distinctions of class in dress, in 1457/58 another sumptuary law added the justification that extravagant fashions contributed to the impoverishment of the realm, especially in the towns and countryside.34 Therefore, no merchants (except aldermen, bailies, councilmen, and their wives) were allowed silk, costly scarlets, or marten fur. Their wives and daughters were permitted short kerchiefs and little hoods like those worn in Flanders, England, and other countries. No merchants’ wives were allowed marten or lettice fur nor trains of unsuitable length lined with fur except on holidays. Poorer gentry landholders fell into the same category as merchants. Commoners were limited to gray and white except on holidays, when they might wear light blue, green, or red. Their wives were allowed only kerchiefs of their own making, the fabric of which could not exceed forty pence per ell. Clerics, a new category, were forbidden to wear marten fur and gowns of scarlet (with an exception for those of rank). Additionally, no woman was allowed to come to church with her face covered so that she was unrecognizable. Frances J. Shaw, one of the few to address Scottish sumptuary law in the past half-century, suggested that women might come to church thus disguised if they were wearing forbidden apparel.35 Scottish poet William Dunbar, who wrote in the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, was concerned with a different problem in his poem The Tua Maryit Wemen and the Wedo [The Two Married Women and the Widow]. The widow describes her false mourning and in lines 426–31 her impious strategy in church: And drawis my clok forthwart our my face quhit, That I may spy, unaspyit, a space me beside: Full oft I blenk by my buke, and blynis of devotioun, To se quhat berne is best brand, or bredest in schulderis, Or forgeit is maist forcely, to furnyse a bancat In Venus chalmer, valyeandly, withoutin vane ruse36

[And draw my cloak forward over my white face, That I may see, unseen, the area nearby: Often I glance by my book, and leave off devotion, To see what hero is most brawny, or broadest in shoulders, Or is forged most strongly, to furnish a banquet In Venus’ bedroom, valiantly, without worthless tricks]

Sir David Lyndsay also mentioned this apparently widespread concern: Ane uther falt, Schir, may be sene, Thay hyde thair face all bot the ene, Quhen gentill men biddis thame gude day, Without reverence thay slyde away, 34

[Another fault, Sir, may be seen, They hide their face all but the eyes, When gentlemen bid them good day, Without reverence they slide away,

RPS, 1458/3/14; see Appendix 3. Shaw, “Sumptuary Legislation,” 99. 36 William Dunbar, The Poems of William Dunbar, ed. David Laing (Edinburgh: Laing and Forbes, 1834), 1:76. For full text and translation, see Appendix 4.vi. 35

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That none may knaw, I you assure, Ane honest woman, be ane hure … Ye may considder quhat I mene; Bot, in the Kirk, and market placis, I think thay suld nocht hide thair facis37

That none may know, I assure you, An honest woman, is a whore … You may consider what I mean; But, in the Church, and market places, I think they should not hide their faces]

Suspicion of women and their motives being what it was at this time, it is not difficult to imagine other reasons that legislators might have had for including such a provision in the law. Confiscation was again the penalty for wearing forbidden fabrics and clothing, with the caveat this time that the church would police the clergy. The exceptions for those of special rank within each class and for certain occasions speak to the complexity of the social reality that the parliament was trying to legislate. The addition of an economic justification to the underlying wish to demarcate the classes added yet more layers, and the specific prohibitions and allowances regarding women’s headwear may indicate a frustration with the perceived failure of the previous law. The additional specificity of allowable colors for commoners may be another example of this. Though the 1429/30 act generally prohibited the commons from wearing colored clothing, the lists of colors in the 1457/58 act are interesting, perhaps pointing to the local and relatively cheap manufacture of undyed gray and white cloth.38 An additional law from 1471 again cited the poverty of the realm as a reason for restraining expenditure on clothing and added a concern about the importation of fine fabric (“the gret expensis and cost mad apoune the brynging of silkis in the realme”).39 In contrast to some later Scottish sumptuary laws, however, this regulation still sought to control demand rather than supply. Only two categories of people were mentioned, and for the first time, entrance to the privileged tier was also extended to those in certain professions who were not necessarily of high birth as well as those with a certain amount of wealth. That is to say, no restrictions were placed on knights, minstrels, heralds, and anyone worth £100 of land rent. No one aside from these was allowed silks in gown, doublet, or cloak. Wives of men worth less than £100 were forbidden silk in linings but allowed it in collars and sleeves, implying that they had been exploiting a loophole in the previous prohibition against silk clothing by only using it in linings. A new penalty in the form of a fine (£10 for each infraction) was added to confiscation, but now civic officials were to “tak inquisicione” and send it to the king. Curiously, however, the banned clothing was to be given to the minstrels and heralds instead of the crown or the church. While they are allowed any sort of clothing under the 1471 law, it may be that this was meant to add insult to injury in the form of the social mockery that might ensue if, for example, an upstart’s fancy clothes were later seen on a minstrel in the public square. Another category of commoner exempt from sumptuary restrictions was the sole subject of the next law, which did not appear until 1567. It stipulated baldly that no women should wear clothing above their estate except whores.40 37

Lyndsay, Works, 132–33. Both “Scottish gray” and “Scottish white” cloth appear in the Accounts. 39 RPS, 1471/5/7; see Appendix 3. 40 RPS, 1567/12/53; see Appendix 3. 38

In tr od uction 11

As is generally thought of most such statutes, it is unlikely that any of these laws were actually enforced. Their value lies in what they can tell us about the perceptions of class and dress and how those related to the economic situation of Scotland rather than as any indication of what people were actually wearing. At the very least, they demonstrate a wish by the upper crust to visibly demarcate various classes through clothing and a contrary push from those in the lower categories to dress above their assigned station. They also imply a willingness to spend what some thought were inappropriate sums on apparel and accessories in order to create the impression of higher status.

S E L F-FA SH IO N IN G, TH E ATR ICAL IT Y, AND RHETORIC IN CLO THIN G The use of the word “fashion” during the sixteenth century as both a noun indicating styles of clothing and a verb meaning the making of something has led to the theory that the Renaissance saw a new sense of personal identity as something that could be, in part, created through clothing.41 This self-fashioning had many layers and cannot be understood simply as the creation of a stylish and expensive exterior to convince others of one’s inner worth, though that was certainly part of the process. Self-fashioning was also a political act. Seen from a modern standpoint, political self-fashioning through clothing might bring to mind images of rather dull, conservative clothing, such as the ubiquitous navy suit and red tie, but of course the opposite was true at the highest levels in the sixteenth century. Rulers and courtiers were expected to maintain a magnificent exterior, and this went hand in hand with political influence.42 In a polemic first published in 1558, Scottish reformer John Knox equated properly opulent dress with honor: “what if man neglect his honor? he his no lesse to be mocked (saith Chrysostome) then if a king shulde depose himself of his diademe or crowne and royal estat and cloth him self in the habit of a sclaue [slave].”43 Court portraits from sixteenth-century Scotland, England, and the Continent lovingly detail luxurious fabrics, their luscious surfaces broken by slashing or extravagant embroidery and punctuated by fabulous goldwork and gems. The body was remade into ever more stylized shapes by clever cutting and underpinnings. So striking were the fashions that they seemed removed from ordinary life, as if seen in a pageant or play. Even contemporary commentators noted the theatricality of sartorial and political self-fashioning at the time. Thomas More remarked upon this more than once, noting the folly of pride and the danger of the game: If ye shouldest perceive that one were earnestly proud of the wearing of a gay golden crown, while the losel playeth the lord in a stage play, wouldest ye not laugh at his folly, considering that ye are very sure, that when the play is done, he shall go walk a knave in his old coat? Now yet thinkest thy self wise enough while ye art proud in thy players garment, and forgettest 41

Jones and Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing, 1–2. Stephen Rigby, “Political Thought,” in Gale Owen-Crocker, Elizabeth Coatsworth, and Maria Hayward, eds. Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450–1450 (Leiden: Brill, 2012), 423–24. 43 John Knox, The First Blast of the Trumpet against the Monstrous Regiment of Women, ed. Edward Arber (London: Southgate, 1878), 29. 42

12

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

that when thy play is done, ye shalt go forth as poor as he. Nor ye rememberest not that thy pageant may happen to be done as soon as his.44 And so they said that these matters be king’s games, as it were stage plays, and for the more part played upon scaffolds. In which poor men be but the lookers-on. And they that wise be will meddle no farther.45

This metaphor was made literal only two years before the start of the regency, when Sir David Lyndsay of the Mount wrote and produced a play that held up a mirror to the Scottish court, setting before King James V and his courtiers their theatrical counterparts.46 Those at the highest levels aimed not for mere splendor, but for a calculated and crafted image denoting their proper place in the hierarchy. What made it theatrical was not only the sumptuous production and the creation of a reality, but also the presence of an audience, without which the display would be pointless. Creating the proper impression in the minds of others was paramount, regardless of where those others were on the social scale. Time and again the records of medieval and Early Modern Scotland, as of other European countries, bear witness to the complex sensitivities surrounding the process of being seen, of being part of a public scaena, observing others, but, more importantly, being observed by them. These theatrical sensitivities can be traced in records of widely differing types of public actions, but what underlies the events is the common need to control the seeing eye, to determine the response of the onlooker and, if possible, even to ensure that the scene will continue to affect the communal memory or shape the imaginations of children unborn.47 In order to craft the proper scene, one must know one’s audience and use the appropriate visual rhetoric to guide their impressions. Rhetoric, both verbal and written, was a staple of university education at this time, and a simplified form of the intrinsic concepts could easily be applied to visual communication as well. Even without a formal education in it, rulers and courtiers absorbed the fashionable communications of others and created their own. Rhetoric and theatricality were natural partners in the art of constructing a sartorial statement. Several Scottish and English writers addressed clothing both in plays and poetry. English poet John Skelton’s satirical poem Bowge of Court contains extensive sartorial rhetoric constructed as an allegory of court life in 1499. He described the clothing of each character, which represents not only their status but also their attributes. In a straightforward bit of symbolism reminiscent of medieval morality plays, the character Ryotte [Riot] has wild hair, and his hat is decorated with a feather he has just plucked from a rooster. His hose have holes at the knees, and his elbows show through the threadbare cloth over them.48 Other 44

Excerpt from Thomas More’s Four Last Things, quoted in Stephen Greenblatt, Renaissance Self-Fashioning: From More to Shakespeare (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980), 26. 45 Excerpt from Thomas More’s The History of King Richard III, quoted in Greenblatt, Renaissance SelfFashioning, 13. 46 Carol Edington, Court and Culture in Renaissance Scotland: Sir David Lindsay of the Mount (Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 1994), 92–93. 47 John J. McGavin, Theatricality and Narrative in Medieval and Early Modern Scotland (Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2007), 16. 48 John Skelton, “Bowge of Court,” ed. Anniina Jokinen, Luminarium Anthology of English Literature,

In tr od uction 13

characterizations are more subtle and rely on metaphor. Of Hervy Hafter, a sly character, Skelton wrote, “Me thoughte his gowne was all furred wyth foxe,”49 and Favell, a liar and flatterer, had a cloak “That lyned was with doubtfull doubleness.”50 This literary rhetoric drew on the preconceptions of Skelton’s audience and an existing cultural construction of symbolism linking certain attributes with types and conditions of clothing – the same construction that also encompassed the ideas that magnificence should be linked with rulership and that different classes of people should wear different qualities of apparel regardless of their wish to fashion a higher status for themselves. Like sumptuary law, satiric poetry often aimed its rhetoric at depressing the pretensions of the middling and lower sorts. While legislation contained for the most part dry thoushalt-nots, satiric poetry employed razor-sharp critique and pious exhortation in equal measure. Scottish poets in particular honed their blades in this genre to follow the tradition of flyting, or poetic scolding, which permitted attack in poetic form even on those of the highest rank.51 Two poems in particular from sixteenth-century Scotland addressed excessive clothing: Richard Maitland’s Satire on the Toun Ladyes, ca. 1555–85,52 and Sir David Lyndsay’s Ane Supplicatioun directit to the Kingis Grace in contemptioun of Syde Taillis [A Supplication Directed to the King’s Grace, in Contempt of Long Trains], ca. 1538.53 Both criticized women for dressing above their station. Maitland wrote of town wives who were vain and wanton in their expensive clothing and suggested that noble women should not allow it: Bot, wald greit ladyis tak gud heid To thair honour, and find remeid, And thoill na burgesis wyfe to weir Lyik lordis wyffis in ladyis weid, As dames of honour other geir.54

[But if great ladies would pay heed To their honor and find a solution; And suffer no burgess’s wife to wear, Like lords’ wives in ladies’ attire, As if dames of honor, other fashions.]

Lyndsay added his own reproach: Bot I have maist in to despyte, Pure claggokis cled in roiploch quhyte, Quhilk hes skant twa markis for thair feis, Will have twa ellis beneath thair kneis: Kittok, that clekkit wes yestrene, The morne, wyll counterfute the Quene55

[But I hold most in contempt, Poor draggle-tails clad in white raploch, Which have scant two marks for their fees, Will have two ells beneath their knees: Wenches, that were born last night, The next morn, will counterfeit the Queen]

http://www.luminarium.org/editions/bowge.htm (accessed Aug. 22, 2015), lines 350, 366–67, 357, 361. Ibid., line 234. 50 Ibid., lines 177–78. In addition to suggesting his dubious two-faced nature, this is a play on words. In this period, garments that were lined were sometimes referred to as double. 51 Lyndsay, Works, 273–74. 52 Maitland, Quarto, 42–45. See Appendix 4.iii for full text and translation. Although this edition of the Quarto does not give titles, Satire on the Toun Ladyes is the common title for this poem. 53 Lyndsay, Works, 128–33. See Appendix 4.iv for full text and translation. 54 Maitland, Quarto, 45. 55 Lyndsay, Works, 130. 49

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Maitland touched on the same themes as the sumptuary laws and expanded into more general critiques of women of the type found in many other texts of the period.56 He denounced overspending on clothing (“On claythis thay wair monye a croun”57 [On clothes they spend many a crown]), clothing as incitement to lust (“Thair bodyes bravelie thay attyire, / Of carnall lust to eik the fyire”58 [Their bodies bravely they attire, / Of carnal lust to feed the fire]) and sin in general (“Na preiching will gar thame foirbeir / To weir all thing that sinne provoikis”59 [No preaching will make them forbear / To wear all the things that provoke sin]), and wearing clothing that was not age-appropriate (“For sumtyme wyffis sa grave hes bein, / Lyik giglettis cled wald not be sein”60 [For in times past wives have been so sober, / They would never be seen clad like giddy girls]). Lyndsay’s focus was narrower, as the title of his poem suggests, but he managed to fit in criticism of various types nevertheless. In the course of condemning long trains, he noted the dust and mud that collected on them as they dragged on the ground (no doubt metaphorical as well as literal) and the inordinate vanity of excessive fashions. He painted nuns and “men of religioun” with the same brush as burgesses: Bot, I lauch best to se ane Nun, Gar beir hir taill abone hir bun, For no thing ellis, as I suppois, Bot for to schaw hir lillie quhyte hois61

[But, I laugh best to see a Nun, To bear her train above her bum, For nothing else, as I suppose, But for to show her lily-white hose]

Rhetoric, theatricality, and symbolism were the weapons of choice both for those attempting sartorial self-fashioning and those attempting to limit it. This struggle, as it was played out in words and clothes in sixteenth-century Scotland, creates a fruitful space in which to study the range of choices embodied in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer.

56

For an excellent discussion of this, see Evelyn S. Newlyn, “Images of Women in 16th-Century Scottish Literary Manuscripts,” in Women in Scotland c.1100–c.1750, ed. Elizabeth Ewan and Maureen M. Meikle (East Linton, UK: Tuckwell, 1999), 56–66. 57 Maitland, Quarto, 42. 58 Ibid. 59 Ibid. 60 Ibid, 43. 61 Lyndsay, Works, 130.

Organization and Conventions

T

his study proceeds from the general to the specific. Part I (Chapters 1 to 3) offers broad analyses of types of garments and the general composition of wardrobes as found in the Accounts. Each type of garment is treated separately, and they are generally considered in the order in which they tend to appear in inventories and even in the lists in the Accounts, with main outer garments listed first, then inner layers, then undergarments and accessories. Portraits and references to extant garments are included where possible to give a more concrete idea of how these types of clothing looked. The discussion focuses on the commonalities to be found across many recipients and notes the most popular colors and types of fabrics for each garment as well as notions and decoration. Information about the construction of garments is included where available. Consideration is given to garments that tended to be worn together as well as those that might be ordered as matching sets. These chapters also examine how clothing interacted with the social structure of Scotland at this time. This lateral analysis provides context within which the clothing of individual recipients can be placed. Chapter 1 focuses on men’s garments and Chapter 2 on women’s garments. Chapter 3 explores specialty garments, such as liveries and clothing for military use, weddings, and funerals. It also covers the storage, care, and carriage of garments. Part II (Chapters 4 to 8) contain “wardrobe biographies,” in which all of the entries from the Accounts concerning garments given to a particular recipient are gathered together in chronological order. For each person, biographical information is included if it is known in order to give a frame of reference for the items received. A few people received truly large amounts of clothing, and for those, two summarized lists of their wardrobe as shown in the Accounts follow the transcriptions of their entries. The chronological summary shows the development of the wardrobe over time and gives a sense of what garments would have been worn together. The summary by category (such as gown, kirtle, etc.) shows the totality of the wardrobe as it accumulated over the years represented in the regency Accounts. Chapter 4 deals solely with the wardrobe of James Hamilton, Earl of Arran and Lord Governor of Scotland, as he received by far the most clothing of any individual in this section of the Accounts. Some brief context is given regarding his situation during the regency, and this is used as a springboard to discuss the clothing he chose to purchase for himself and others using the national treasury. Chapter 5 examines the men and boys of the court, meaning those who were of high status and could be considered members of the court rather than servants. Chapter 6 covers women and girls of the court, most of whom were the Regent’s family members or dependents such as wards.

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Chapters 7 and 8 address the servants, including those of rank, sorted by their affiliation. Chapter 7 covers servants of the court and to the Regent. This group includes many of the “middling sort” and shows the types and qualities of clothing common to that part of the social spectrum. Chapter 8 turns to servants of others and miscellaneous people. This group, too, includes many of the “middling sort” but also some recipients of charity and helps to illuminate the clothing of the poorest classes. Finally, the Appendices include transcriptions and translations of relevant poetry, Scottish sumptuary laws, and other documents from this period or near it. Also provided are a glossary of terms beyond those defined in Chapters 1 through 3, and several indexes, including a table that cross-references between the record numbers in this volume, the previously published transcription, and the manuscripts.

N O TE S ON FABRIC Many fabrics unfamiliar to modern readers appear in these records. The following tables are intended to assist with identification of fiber content and relative pricing. To aid comparison, prices are given in shillings even in cases where the clerks of the Accounts would have converted them to pounds. For example, a total of £3 5s would almost never be written as 65s, even though these are equivalent sums. Some prices per ell were extrapolated from the totals given for smaller pieces (e.g., ⅝ ell of crimson velvet purchased for 50s was 80s per ell). Fabrics listed without named varieties specified may be assumed to include any varieties not included in another listing. For example, the entry for wool “camlet” includes unwatered, watered, and Turkey camlet, whereas the entry for “gray” includes only fabrics listed in the Accounts without a specific variety (such as English, pile, and Scottish), as all of those are included in the “gray (all named varieties)” entry on the next line. These price ranges often include outliers, but the most common prices are generally in the middle of any given range. Where this is not the case, the range of prices with the most examples is given in parentheses. Silk fabrics

Price range (per ell)

camlet damask damask (crimson)1 satin satin (Bruges)2 satin (crimson)3 taffeta

16s (only one example) 32s–45s 67s 6d 32s–45s 6s–12s 70s–80s 14s–35s (most 14s–18s)

 1

Although crimson is a color rather than a specific variety of damask, its value was so different from damask of other colors that it has been listed separately.  2 One instance simply labeled “satin” [91] has been placed in this category due to its price per ell (12s).  3 Although crimson is a color rather than a specific variety of satin, its value was so different from satin of other colors that it has been listed separately.



Or g aniz ation and Conven tions 17

Silk fabrics (cont.)

Price range (per ell)

taffeta (armosene) taffeta (of cord) taffeta (of four threads, of Genoa) taffeta (of grosgrain)4 velvet velvet (crimson)5

30s–44s 11s–33s (most 18s–22s) 14s–18s 34s–46s 48s–80s 80s–160s

Wool fabrics

Price range (per ell) 6

black (French, English) black (Lille, Paris) black (of the seal of Rouen) black (Scottish) black (unpressed) black gray blue, green7 bombazine brown8 camlet cloth of Mechelen color de roy demigrain demi-ostage English cloth9 frieze gall cloth ?grance (or grauce) gray gray (all named varieties) kersey

 4

28s–60s 32s–42s 54s–65s 16s–24s 32s–46s 2s 6d–5s 5s–9s 12s–15s 30s–50s 6s 8d–22s 46s (one example) 18s–28s 28s–40s 7s–8s 6s 8d–55s 28s–45s 14s–18s (two examples) 32s (one example) 2s 6d–16s (most 2s 6d–5s) 12s–22s 6s–10s

Taffeta of grosgrain was also called taffeta grosgrain and sometimes just grosgrain. Although crimson is a color rather than a specific variety of velvet, its value was so different from velvet of other colors that it has been listed separately.  6 The Accounts include many examples of French black. Judging from the very wide range of prices per ell, it was available in a variety of qualities.  7 There may be another example of green at 16s per ell [172], but the word that may be “green” in the manuscript is unclear.  8 Few examples of brown appear in the regency Accounts, and each of them is described differently (English brown, French brown, French brown of the seal, London brown), so the wide variance in price in this group may result from an insufficiency of examples.  9 Only three examples of “English cloth” appear in the regency Accounts, and this phrase was clearly not a specific descriptor, as fabrics of both very low and very high price are included.  5

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Wool fabrics (cont.) 10

Price range (per ell)

red red (English, broad, broad English, London) red (French) russet scarlet serge serge (of Florence) stemming11 stemming (English) stemming (of Milan)12 twesane utterfine violet in grain white (including broad, English, Scottish) white (French) worsted worsted (double) yellow

5s–30s 25s–40s 8s–28s 18s–40s 46s–100s 14s–16s 46s 14s–50s 14s–16s 36s–50s 36s (one example) 22s–39s 5d 70s–90s 3s–9s 25s–36s 10s–16s 22s–36s 24s (one example)

Linen fabrics

Price range (per ell)

bocasin Bretagne cloth buckram13 cambric canvas (including fine)14 canvas (heavy) Holland cloth Holland cloth (fine) Holland cloth (heavy) lawn trailȝe, trailye, trailze

4s–12s 2s 3d–4s 4d 2s 4d–6s 15s–26s 8d 1s 2d–5s 2s–2s 8d 7s–20s 12s–20s 6s–12s 14s–22s 6s 9d (one example)

10

The Accounts include many examples of red. Judging from the wide range of prices per ell, it was available in a variety of qualities. 11 The Accounts include many examples of stemming. Judging from the very wide range of prices per ell, it was available in a variety of qualities. 12 Almost all examples of stemming of Milan priced 36s–40s are from 1551 and later, which suggests the advent of a cheaper source. 13 Most of the examples at the bottom of this range were used for packing or wrapping clothing. 14 One listing of “canwische claith” at 16s per ell [632] may belong under “canvas,” but the spelling canwische is different from the usual (which would be canves), and that cloth was more than three times more expensive than the next most costly piece of canvas, making that a dubious translation.



Or g aniz ation and Conven tions 19

Mixed-fiber fabrics

Price range (per ell)

bombazine camlet fustian fustian (lining)

12s–15s 8s–22s 3s–10s 3s–6s

To further complicate matters, fabrics in the sixteenth century were produced in many different widths. This may lead to confusion when more lining fabric than outer fabric was purchased or when two halves of a particolored garment required different amounts. Such seeming anomalies occur many times in the Accounts.

N O TE S O N TH E TR ANS CRIPTION In preparing this study, I examined the original manuscripts in the summers of 2014 and 2016 and photographed them for later reference. The manuscripts are currently bound in several volumes. They have been rebound, some of them more than once, so in many cases the ends of the lines are buried in the binding and difficult to read. Some parts of the manuscript are quite damaged, and others are missing entirely. In this volume, all entries related to secular clothing and accessories15 have been included with the exception of text that is crossed out in the manuscript, which has been omitted unless it adds interesting information. The many clothing-related entries that Paul left out entirely are included but not specifically noted. Because i/j and u/v were interchangeable in the sixteenth century, it is conventional to “correct” them to match modern usage. However, the transcriptions in this volume preserve the exact, uncorrected content of the text, as the translation is there to assist with any confusion. Some forms of sixteenth-century scribal notation are difficult to render gracefully in modern type. The medieval character thorn, representing the “th” sound, was still used in Scotland in the sixteenth century, but it was by that time indistinguishable from a lowercase y when written. To avoid confusion, this transcription uses an older symbol for thorn (þ) in places where one appears in the manuscript. Another older character, the yogh, was also still in use at that time. In the Accounts, it usually represented a “y” sound at the beginning of a word such as “yellow” or in the middle of a word like “Spaniard” (the second syllable of which is pronounced “yerd” even though it is not spelled that way in modern English). This transcription uses ȝ for yoghs in the manuscript. The symbol for “half,” which looks somewhat like a 3, has been silently changed to ½ throughout to avoid confusion, and the ampersand, which resembles an elongated modern cursive r, is rendered as &. The clerks of the Accounts used many abbreviations. A common one was to write out the first syllable of a word, skip the middle, and add the last letter as a superscript (as in “govr” for “governor”). While this is simple to transcribe in modern type, others are not, such as one 15

The only exceptions to this are certain armor-related items, especially coverings for helms (which in the Accounts are called “steel bonnets”).

20

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

abbreviation for “summa” (total), which consists of a capital S, lowercase m, and a loop to indicate the missing letters. Where letters were missing in the manuscript, they are supplied in italics in the transcription (“Summa”). Other abbreviation marks such as a line, loop, or other symbol above, below, in the middle, or at the end of a word that indicate missing letters have also been expanded in this way except for monetary units, which are left as abbreviations. Spelling being somewhat idiosyncratic at that time (and differing between scribes), exactly which letters the writers thought were missing is sometimes a matter of educated guessing. Capitalization is for the most part preserved wherever it appeared; however, it is sometimes difficult to tell whether a letter was intended to be capitalized or not, and there are occasions where a word or even the second half of a word was capitalized simply because it appeared at the beginning of a line. These have been handled on a case-by-case basis, as the original line breaks are not preserved in this transcription. The monetary sum at the end of each line in the manuscript is flush with the right margin and connected to summa (or the equivalent term) with a lead line where there is space for one. This is represented with an em-dash (—) where it was present. In some places, the manuscript has degraded since Paul’s day or been conserved in such a way that it is harder to read. In such cases this transcription relies more heavily on Paul’s text when it exists (he often silently omitted items in damaged portions of the manuscript). Items in square brackets are guesses, some of which are Paul’s. These are usually from portions of the manuscript that are missing today, and it is not clear whether they were there a century ago for Paul’s transcription. Paul does not specify whether his guesses were based on barely legible but present text or on other similar items in the absence of any text. In some cases, they were probably the result of simple math, as a missing total could easily be calculated from the number of ells and the price per ell in any given line item. This transcription includes all legible information, even when this results in partial entries. Unreadable sections are indicated with and unreadable single words with . Uncertain words are followed by a question mark (e.g., “elne?”). Places where there is simply a blank space left in the manuscript where there should be, for example, a name or a price per ell, are indicated by […]. Because references to clothing and accessories are scattered throughout the Accounts, a database was the most reasonable way to organize the information. Each record in the database is coded with a number, and these numbers appear in square brackets after the quotation in Scots. For the most part, any list of items that was specified as being for a single person on a specific day was grouped together into a single record. This was not always possible for various reasons, so the numbering is in some cases idiosyncratic, and some records contain dozens of items while others only have one. In some cases, a list of clothing for one person in the manuscript is interrupted in the middle with items for someone else or entries unrelated to clothing and accessories. When a series for the same person on a single day has a hiatus in the middle due to unrelated entries, the entire series is placed in the same record (so it has one record number), but the hiatus is indicated with an ellipsis. Below is an example of a single line item with the translation to the right. In the manuscript, this entry was in a section from April 1546. The italicized letters were abbreviated, and the last three letters of “gouernoris” were superscript. The word “seruitour” was difficult to read due to damage to the manuscript, and a portion after “compn” was indecipherable.



Or g aniz ation and Conven tions 21

This entry contains two instances of the character thorn, represented here by þ. The number at the end of the transcription [199] is the record number. April 1546 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall comd to his gracis seruitour? edward stewart in compn of ane precept direct to furnist þe said edward ane levaray þe soume of—xxx li [199]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant?, Edward Stewart, in composition of a precept direct to furnish the said Edward a livery, the sum of £30.

N O TE S O N TH E TE XT AND TR ANSL ATION The Accounts provide an after-the-fact record of money spent by the office of the Treasurer.16 Because all expenditures had to be approved by the Regent, a system of warrants similar to that used in other courts conveyed his wishes to those who actually spent and accounted for all of the nation’s funds. Each warrant was a permission slip detailing what the bearer could expect to receive. This would be conveyed to the appropriate person depending on the nature of the grant, which could either be items or money to be spent for a specific purpose. Warrants do survive in the Regent’s own hand, and a sample can be found in Appendix 1 detailing garments from the wardrobe of the late James V to be given to the Earl of Moray, his half-brother. The Accounts are a summary of these warrants, divided into sections by month and type of expenditure. Each section had a heading describing its contents, and these headings were generally consistent from month to month. Most of the transcribed material in this volume came from two types of sections. One included expenditures for the Regent and his immediate family and would usually be titled in a way similar to “The expensis debursit upoune my lord governour his graces lady and barnis awne personis in the moneth of Januare 1551” [The expenses disbursed upon my lord governor, his grace’s lady, and children’s own persons in the month of January, 1551]. The other was a record of miscellaneous monies spent on others with a header such as “The expensis debursit be my lord governouris preceptis and speciale command in this moneth of Januare 1551” [The expenses disbursed by my lord governor’s precepts and special command in this month of January, 1551]. Within each section, the content was divided by the clerks into line items. These were discrete expenditures beginning with the word “Item” and ending with a total. Each line item might contain more than one actual purchase, but the purchase price(s) would be summed for each. Those subtotals were then added together at the end of each page, and so on. As might be expected, the Accounts were written in a dialect peculiar to sixteenth-century Scotland using the systems of money, measurement, and dating that were then current. For the most part, prices were listed as money of account in £sd notation, referring to pounds, 16

Thomas Dickson, ed. Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, vol. 1 (Edinburgh: H.M. General Register House, 1877), xxii–xxiii.

22

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

shillings, and pence. A shilling was worth 12 pennies (pence), and a pound was worth 20 shillings, or 240 pence. Money of account was used in record-keeping but did not necessarily match the coinage. There was no such thing as a shilling coin at that time in Scotland, for example, but there were groats (worth anywhere from 12d to 18d, depending on when they were minted),17 nobles (40d to 44d),18 and Abbey crowns (20s),19 among others. The pounds-shillings-pence system of money was also used in England, but Scottish money was worth significantly less, in part because of the values (in terms of weights of gold and silver) set by both governments.20 All amounts in this volume refer to Scots money. Readers may notice certain conventions used by the clerks of the Accounts, who preferred not to note single pounds and shillings. They almost never wrote a total that contained one shilling, instead noting it as 12d (or up to 23d if there were pence added in). For example, a clerk would generally give a total as £5 12d instead of £5 1s or £5 18d rather than £5 1s 6d. In cases where a total was originally written in pounds and pence in this way, the translation includes a “placeholder” 0s in the midst of the total and does not reduce large numbers of pence to the equivalent number of shillings. For example, a total originally written as £5 18d is translated as £5 0s 18d rather than £5 1s 6d. Similarly, the clerks tended to give totals in large numbers of shillings rather than one or even two pounds. For example, they would almost always write 26s rather than £1 6s and would usually write 46s rather than £2 6s. These were left as-is in the translation rather than reduced to the equivalent numbers of pounds and pence. Measurements of fabric were almost always given in ells. The Scottish ell at this time was 37 inches long. Inches were the same in England and Scotland, and they were the same size then as they are now.21 Lengths of less than an ell were not given in the Accounts in inches but rather in fractions of an ell: half, quarter, and nail (one sixteenth). An eighth was usually listed as a half quarter. These fractions were often used additively. For example, the Accounts might list a length as an ell and a half and a half quarter and a nail, which in modern terms would be 111⁄16 ells. Lengths of more than an ell were sometimes listed in quarters (5 quarters instead of 1¼ ell), but readers must be careful to observe the hierarchy of measurements. The largest measurement was always listed first, so “nyne quarterris and ane half ” is 2⅜, not 2¾, because the “and ane half ” means “and a half of a quarter” not “and a half of an ell.” Numbers of ells were written in Roman numerals, but sixteenth-century Scots clerks had a particular way of using them. In contrast to modern usage, Roman numerals were always lowercase. The final i was almost always written as j, and four was written as iiij rather than iv. Silk and linen thread and stuffing (for padding) were generally listed by weight, in pounds and ounces, as was gold for jewelry and ornaments. Gold and silver thread were sometimes 17

Elizabeth Gemmill and Nicholas Mayhew, Changing Values in Medieval Scotland: A Study of Prices, Money, and Weights and Measures (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995), 128, 134. 18 Ibid., 134. 19 Ibid., 135. 20 For a full discussion of currency, coinage, and relative values, see Gemmill and Mayhew, Changing Values, and R. D. Connor and A. D. C. Simpson, Weights and Measures in Scotland: A European Perspective, ed. A. D. Morrison-Low (Edinburgh: Tuckwell, 2004). 21 Connor and Simpson, Weights and Measures, 58.



Or g aniz ation and Conven tions 23

sold by the hank and sometimes by weight. Small items such as buttons were usually sold by the dozen. Very occasionally, a large number of something was counted in scores (units of 20). All entries in the Accounts were dated, so for almost all items, the month and year of purchase are known. However, at this time Scotland still used a calendar in which the new year started on March 25. Any date falling between January 1 and March 24 therefore would fall in the new year by modern reckoning but was listed in the previous year in the Accounts. These instances are noted with a slash between the old calendar year and the new calendar year. For example, a date that would in the Accounts be rendered February 1, 1545, and in the modern calendar February 1, 1546, is noted as February 1, 1545/46. Modern translation of all text from the Accounts appears next to the transcription in this volume. Certain issues required a standard approach in the interests of clarity even though word-for-word equivalency was lost. For example, the measurements of all fabrics are compressed into a single numeral and fraction (“twa elnis ½ quarter ane naill” is translated as 23⁄16 ells) and words are reordered where modern grammar or clarity requires (“Item to Eduard Stewartis tua childer falconarres vj elnis color de roy to be thame cotis” is translated as “Item, for Eduard Stewart’s two children, falconers, 6 ells of color de roy to be coats for them”). Words that were clearly left out of the original notation or that would add clarity of meaning for modern readers (such as “of ” in the previous example) have been silently included in the translations. Some choices depend on context. For example, in the case of “to by him claythis,” it is impossible to tell whether the correct reading would be “to buy clothes for him” or “to buy himself clothes.” These have been translated based on the identities of the recipients and whether it seemed likely that they would be purchasing clothing for themselves as opposed to having it provided for them, but there is of course room to differ. Because the pool of popular names in sixteenth-century Scotland was rather small, in some cases it was difficult to identify the recipient of any given item. For example, a number of garments were designated for Elizabeth, the daughter of the late Sir James (the Regent’s half-brother). This would seem to be a very detailed description, but the late Sir James had no fewer than three daughters named Elizabeth by three different women. Only when an Elizabeth was identified as Lady Calderwood was it clear which one was meant. The unusual number of people named James Hamilton and John Hamilton was similarly confounding.22 Thankfully the uniquely named Cuthbert Hamilton, the Regent’s nephew, provided occasional relief. In addition to this issue, over the course of the years some people changed status and thus were referred to differently. Women married, and men succeeded to their fathers’ estates or changed employment. Widowhood, divorce, and subsequent second or third marriages also complicated matters. Although sorting out identities has been a key part of this study, 22

The prevalence of Jameses in this particular set of Accounts was in large part due to the promiscuity of the Regent’s father James and his half-brother James of Finnart, because the many women with whom they had sons were careful to establish paternity via naming. The Regent’s father also had two sons named John. This had a cascade effect into the next generations, as it was common for the eldest son to be named after the father. The Regent had three half-brothers and five nephews named James and two half-brothers and three nephews named John.

2 4

Dre s sin g the S co t tish Co urt, 15 43–15 5 3

it is possible that some people are conflated while others are listed in more than one place accidentally. Unless cited to another source, all translations in this work are my own. As an American, this author begs the indulgence of readers in the case of errors introduced by the necessary approach to Scots as a foreign language, particularly in place-names and idioms. While this is but a small gleaning from a large pool of documents, hopefully this work will aid those who wish to learn more about the clothing and accessories of mid-sixteenth-century Scotland.

Part I

Garments

Chapter 1

Men’s Garments And Tailyeouris with weil maid clais, Can mend the werst maid man that gaiss, And mak him semely for to se: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

[And Tailors with well-made clothes, Can mend the worst-made man that goes, And make him seemly for to see: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.]

—Amends to the Tailyeouris and Sowtaris by William Dunbar1

T

he rich material in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland includes many references to clothing and textiles for dozens of individuals from across the social spectrum. To make sense of them, it is helpful to understand what the writers meant when they referred to coitis [coats], sarkis [shirts], and the various other types of clothing mentioned. Although fashion in Scotland was probably similar to that in England, France, and the Low Countries, some peculiarities emerge in the Accounts, and it is possible to discern trends in the types of fabrics, linings, and trim used for particular garments. As in any period, each type of garment existed in a range of qualities depending on the status and wealth of the wearer, and some garments and accessories were worn exclusively by certain classes.2 The Accounts also show what garments would have been worn together and which garments would have been made of matching colors or fabrics. Because the Accounts are in colloquial Scots, the vocabulary can prove difficult. Most types of men’s garments mentioned in the Accounts are identifiable, especially when cross-referenced with clothing worn in other countries at this time. A few, however, remain elusive. Some of the listings in the Accounts are quite detailed and include thread, buttons, linings, payment for labor, and everything else that would be needed to complete the garments therein. Others only list the main outer fabric. Sometimes the unnamed other materials

  1

Dunbar, Poems, 60. Sumptuary laws in Scotland pale in comparison to England’s lengthy and detailed legislation at this time. (For more information on Scottish sumptuary law, see pp. 0–0.) However, sartorial divisions between classes do appear in the Accounts.

  2

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were taken from the Regent’s personal wardrobe, though it was more usual for the main fabric to come from his personal store and the rest via the Treasury [693 and 633, below].3 Item archebald dewar for making of thir tway coitis and ane coit of figurate welwet to claude þe welwet and furnessing þairof gottin furt of my lord gouernouris garderobe—xxvj s [693]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of these two coats and a coat of figured velvet for Claude, the velvet and furnishings thereof gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, 26s.

Item coft to lyne ane coit of veluet to him þe veluet gottin out of my lord governouris wardrop twa elnis gray price of þe elne v s Summa—x s [633]

Item, bought to line a coat of velvet for him, the velvet gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe, 2 ells of gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Generally, only the Regent’s immediate family members were favored with materials from his wardrobe. Others who received only the outer fabrics were apparently expected to supply the rest themselves. Indeed, the presence or absence of a full list of materials and labor costs usually seems to indicate which people the Regent considered his dependents and which he was giving materials for clothing for personal or political reasons or because he owed them livery. In general, his dependents received everything necessary for the completion of the clothing. What a man wore in sixteenth-century Scotland depended almost entirely on his status and wealth. A man from the upper reaches of society might begin with a white linen shirt and over that wear legs of hose (on the feet and lower legs) and thighs of hose. The lower hose would be tied with garters just below the knee4 and the upper hose attached at the waist with ties (called points) to a doublet, which was a short, fitted torso garment that usually had sleeves. Beyond that, a coat, bonnet or hat, and shoes might suffice; but for the whole ensemble, one would add a cloak if among the lower sort or dressing more casually. If of higher status and dressing for a formal occasion, instead of a cloak one would wear a gown – a full overcoat reaching to the knees and sometimes lined with fur – and a belt and sword. With the exception of gowns, the real differentiation between social classes came generally with the quality of the materials rather than the types of garments worn. Whereas a nobleman would wear silk and fur, a farmer would wear wool. Children generally wore the same sorts of garments as their parents, though of course clothing for very young children tended to be simplified.5

  3

For the purpose of this study, the clothing entries in the Accounts are divided into records, each of which contains (for the most part) everything ordered for an individual in a particular month. Each record has a reference number, usually found in square brackets, by which it can be located elsewhere in this book. Record numbers are also indexed to match them with Paul’s transcription as well as the original manuscripts.   4 The lower hose were sometimes also stitched to the upper hose.   5 Melanie Schuessler, “‘She Hath Over Grown All that Ever She Hath’: Children’s Clothing in the Lisle Letters, 1533–1540,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 3 (2007): 181–200.



Men ’s G armen ts 29

GOWNS The gown was the outermost formal layer of clothing for both men and women.6 An image of King James V (fig. 3) shows the style of gown popular in Scotland,7 which is very similar to gowns in portraits from England, France, and Germany at this time. Henry VIII wears gowns in most of his full-length portraits, as does another man portrayed dressed entirely in red from 1548.8 Voluminous, knee-length,9 and open at the front, the gown was generally only worn by the higher classes in Scotland. In the regency Accounts, the only gowns ordered for men of lower status, such as the cook and the falconer, were mourning gowns and other specialty types. All other recipients were either members of the Regent’s immediate family or men who could be addressed as Lord, Master, or Dean. The presence of expensive trim such as passementerie (a woven or braided band) and fur linings is another indication of the high status of these garments. Gowns were grouped with the best clothing, which was protected when stored by laying linen between the folds [20, below]. Item deliuerit to him to lay betuix þe faldis of the gownis and fyne claithis in þe gardrop xxiiij elnis blechit bertane clay t price of þe elne iiij s iiij d Summa—iiij li [20]

Item, delivered to him [ John Kirkcaldy] to lay between the folds of the gowns and fine clothes in the wardrobe, 24 ells of bleached Bretagne cloth, price of each ell 4s 4d; total: £4.10

The gown usually had a large collar lying flat over the shoulders, which was often of fur or a different and more costly fabric than the body of the gown. It had sleeves, generally with fullness above the elbow, which might accommodate the arm only to the elbow while the rest hung free. Other sleeve variations appear in portraits of James V, including full sleeves that seem to end at the elbow11 and the wrist12 and hanging sleeves that are open almost to the shoulder.13 The gown might also have bands of matching or contrasting fabric as decoration.14 The examples from the Accounts below include two gowns, one [253] of worsted wool with velvet (probably as decorative bands) and fur (probably as the collar), and the other [254] of silk with velvet decoration that had a matching doublet.   6

For information on gowns from Henry VIII’s wardrobe, see Maria Hayward, Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII (Leeds: Maney, 2007), 97–100.   7 Although this image dates from the late sixteenth century, it is the best full-length depiction of this style in Scotland and seems to have been based on earlier portraits of the king.   8 Portrait of a Man in Red by an unknown artist (1548; Royal Collection, London), reproduced in Hayward, Dress, fig. 6.1 and plate IIA.   9 The earlier fashion of longer gowns gradually gave way to shorter ones. In 1496, the Scottish king received a gown “of the new fassoune to the kne.” Dickson, Accounts, 259.  10 The total should be £5 4s. The given total would be correct if the price per ell were 3s 4d instead of 4s 4d.  11 James V of Scotland by an unknown artist (ca. 1540; Royal Collection, London).  12 James V of Scotland by an unknown artist (date unknown; National Galleries of Scotland, Edinburgh, PG 361).  13 James V and Mary of Guise by an unknown artist (1540; National Trust, Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire, England).  14 See, for example, the extant gown of Prince Elector Maurice of Saxony in Hayward, Dress, figs. 6.2, 6.3, 6.4.

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Part I: G armen ts

Fig. 3: James V, from the Seton Armorial (1591; National Library of Scotland, Acc. 9309, fol. 19r, detail). Reproduced by permission of the National Library of Scotland.



Men ’s G armen ts 3 1

Item xxviijto Januarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces eldest sone and furnist be Archiebald dewar viij elnis Lylis worsate to be him ane goun price of þe elne xv s Summa—vj li

Item, January 28th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s eldest son and furnished by Archibald Dewar, 8 ells of Lille worsted to be a gown for him, price of each ell 15s; total: £6.

Item half ane elne of welwote to it—xxx s

Item, ½ ell of velvet for it, 30s.

Item ane furring of buge and blake lambe skynnes to it—iiij li viij s

Item, a furring of budge and black lamb skins for it, £4 8s.

Item for bukrame to it—viij s [253]

Item, for buckram for it, 8s.

Item fyve elnis and ane iij quartar of taffate armosene to be him ane other goun & ane doublat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa— ix li xv s vj d

Item, 5¾ ells of armosene taffeta to be another gown and a doublet for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £9 15s 6d.

Item half ane elne of welwote to bordour ane goun with—xxx s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to border a gown with, 30s.

Item bukrame to it—ij s [254]

Item, buckram for it, 2s.

Other types of decoration for gowns included passementerie. In the case below [383], it was made half of gold (probably silk thread wrapped with a thin strip of gold) and half of silk threads, but it could also be entirely made of either gold thread or silk. Item xvj elnis pasmentis half gold half silk to my lordes grace goun & cote of blak welwote þe elne x s Summa—viij li [383]

Item, 16 ells of passementerie (half gold, half silk) for my lord grace’s gown and coat of black velvet, each ell 10s; total: £8.

Some gowns were intended for special purposes, such as a “winter” gown [224, below] – made of a woolen fabric with a pile for warmth – and a furred gown to wear at sea [400, below]. Most of the riding gowns listed in the regency Accounts were for women, but there were two with hoods given to a pair of friars [17, below]. It is not clear whether the hoods were integral to the gowns or a separate article, though the wording suggests that they were integral. Other variations in style also appear in the Accounts, such as the gown of the clerk’s (or cleric’s) fashion ordered for the Lord Governor’s half-brother [4, below].15 Several mourning gowns were also ordered. For more information on mourning clothing, see p. 131–6.

 15

For an idea of what this type of gown might have looked like, see the gentleman on the right in Hans Holbein’s famous portrait The French Ambassadors to the English Court (1533; National Gallery, London), reproduced in Stephanie Buck, Hans Holbein (Cologne: Könemann, 1999), 99.

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Item tua elnis and ane half pyle gray to be him ane wyntar goun price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s [224]

Item, 2½ ells of pile gray to be a winter gown for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item for ane furrit goun to him to weir upoun þe see—vj li [400]

Item, for a furred gown for him to wear upon the sea, £6.

Item deliuerit to dauid leper to be ryding gownis witht hudis to freir thomas gilȝame and freir alexander lindsay xj elnis scottis blak, price of þe elne xx s Summa—xj li [17]

Item, delivered to David Leper to be riding gowns with hoods for friar Thomas Gilliame and friar Alexander Lindsay, 11 ells of Scottish black, price of each ell 20s; total: £11.

Item deliuerit to him to be ane gowne of þe clarkis fassoune xv elnis tanny dames, price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxviij li x s [4]

Item, delivered to him to be a gown of the clerk’s fashion, 15 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £28 10s.

Often, gowns were made as part of an ensemble. Sometimes this consisted merely of a gown and doublet (as in [254], above), but other times an entire outfit would be made to match. In the example below [464], the gown, coat, and doublet were all to be made of gray satin, whereas the coordinating hose would be of gray velvet and wool. Item tuelf elnis gray sating to be him ane other goun cote and doublat price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxv li iiij s

Item, 12 ells of gray satin to be another gown, coat, and doublet for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £25 4s.

Item v quartaris gray welwote to be stokis of hois to him price of þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, 1¼ ells of gray velvet to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell £4; total: £5.

Item thre quartaris and ane half gray stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois—xxxviij s vj d [464]

Item, ⅞ ell of gray stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, 38s 6d.

Matching gowns and coats ordered together make up half the total of gowns in the regency Accounts. Sets of clothes all made of the same color were also a feature in Henry VIII’s warrants16 and were worn in the French court as well. For his portrait in 1534–35, Charles de Solier wore a matched set consisting of a black satin doublet with paned sleeves, a black velvet coat (with the top corners turned under, as they are in several other portraits, to show off the doublet), and a black satin gown lined with brown fur.17 All three layers have identical black embroidery for a rich but subtle effect. However, non-matching sets were  16

Maria Hayward, “Dressed to Rule: Henry VIII’s Wardrobe and His Equipment for Horse, Hawk, and Hound,” in The Inventory of King Henry VIII, vol. 2, Textiles and Dress, ed. Maria Hayward and Philip Ward (London: Harvey Miller, 2012), 81.  17 Portrait of Charles du Solier, Lord of Morette by Hans Holbein (ca. 1534–35; Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Dresden), reproduced in Buck, Holbein, fig. 95.



Men ’s G armen ts 33

also worn. A portrait of Simon George of Cornwall from about 1535–40 clearly shows the doublet (red), coat (white), and gown (black) all worn together over a shirt with blackwork embroidery (fig. 4). For another example, see Holbein’s portrait of Thomas Howard, third Duke of Norfolk, whose red doublet, black coat lined with brown fur, and black satin gown lined with lynx also show this type of ensemble.18 Gowns required varying amounts of fabric. The number of ells depended on the type of material, because wools were usually wider than silks. “Paris black” and “French black” (which might have been different names for the same textile) were the most popular choices

Fig. 4: Simon George of Cornwall, by Hans Holbein the younger (ca. 1535–40; Städel Museum, Frankfurt am Main). Photo: © Städel Museum – ARTOTHEK.  18

Portrait of Thomas Howard, Third Duke of Norfolk by Hans Holbein (ca. 1539–40; Royal Collection, London).

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Part I: G armen ts

among wools for making gowns for men, and most wool gowns required six ells. Gowns of silk – usually velvet, damask, or satin – required more length due to the diminished width.19 Silk gowns ranged from approximately seven to nineteen ells for adults, depending on the type of fabric used. Apparently the calculations for how much fabric was required were not always successful, as evidenced by these consecutive entries [471, below]. Item ix elnis taffate armosene to be ane goun & cote to his grace price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xviij li xviij s

Item, 9 ells of armosene taffeta to be a gown and coat for his grace, price of each ell 42s; total: £18 18s.

Item tane fra williame craik to eik furth þis goun v quartaris of þis same sort of taffate þe elne xl s Summa—l s [471]

Item, taken from William Craik to enlarge this gown, 1¼ ells of this same sort of taffeta, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Extant gowns from Germany are consistent with the images that survive from England, Scotland, and France, so it is likely that the cut was similar across western Europe. The large amount of fabric required was, in these examples, given to quite a bit of fullness in the body of the gown. Much of this fullness was concentrated in the back in two gowns at the Bayerischen Nationalmuseum, Munich, and one from the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Dresden, but in the gown of Prince Elector Maurice of Saxony, it was distributed throughout in a circular cut.20 The precise manner of creating the fullness varied, as can be seen from examining the cuts of the extant gowns and comparing them to tailors’ books from the sixteenth century.21 These gowns also show a variety of sleeve styles and schemes of decoration. Gowns were sometimes lined throughout with fur. In the example below [840], the fur in the front of the gown (the forequarters) is different from that in the back, probably to economize by using a cheaper fur where it would not be seen. In at least one case, the fur lining seems to have been made as a separate item and attached to the outer fabric with ties, or points [511, below].

 19

Italian silks from the sixteenth century ranged from 15.5 inches to 34.5 inches wide (38.9 cm to 87.5 cm); Lisa Monnas, Merchants, Princes and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300–1550 (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2008), 320–21.  20 Johannes Pietsch, Zwei Schauben aus dem Bayerischen Nationalmuseum München. Ein Beitrag zur Kostümforschung (Munich: Siegl, 2004), plates 1 and 15. The gown of Prince Elector Maurice of Saxony is shown laid flat in a photo at https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj32004253 (accessed Sept. 28, 2018).  21 For example, Juan de Alcega, Tailor’s Pattern Book 1589, trans. Jean Pain and Cecilia Bainton (New York: Quite Specific Media Group: 1999); the Leonfeldner Schnittbuch, held at the Stadtmuseum in Linz and reproduced online at http://www.elizabethancostume.net/schnittbuch (accessed July 9, 2014); and Diego de Freyle, Geometria y Traça para el Oficio de los Sastres, 1588, held at the Folger Shakespeare Library in Washington, D.C., excerpts online at http://www.renaissancetailor.com/research_freyle. htm (accessed July 9, 2014).



Men ’s G armen ts 3 5

Item to Jhone craig furrour for foure dosoun and fyve cwnyng skynnes put in þe fore quartaris of þis goun and blak skynnes put in þe bak of it—xvj li [840]

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for 53 rabbit skins put in the forequarters of this gown and black skins put in the back of it, £16

Item for þe furring of ane goun of sable poynttit to ane goun of tanny sating of his /g/—xiiij s [511]

Item, for the furring of a gown of sable pointed to a gown of tawny satin of his grace’s, 14s.

Gowns were also sometimes lined with fabric, as in the example below with a buckram lining [210; see also 378]. In some cases, linings for the sleeves and collar might be a different type of cloth from the rest of the gown [474, below]. In another example [464, below], it is worth noting that the satin is only for lining the “scyes” of the gown. In modern terms, a scye is usually an armscye, or the opening into which a sleeve is set. However, this term seems to be used in the Accounts to refer to the edges or openings of a garment more generally. For example, “sychtis at the handis of thir sarkes” [474] would translate to cuffs or sleeve hems. In this case, it probably refers to at least the open front edges of the gown and possibly also to the bottom hem, openings in the sleeves, and/or hems of the sleeves. In a number of instances there was no lining specified for a gown, despite the detailed list of layers in other entries nearby. Item xj ½ elnis blak bukram to lyn þe said goun and cote price of þe elne v s Summa— lvij s vj d [210]

Item, 11½ ells of black buckram to line the said gown and coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 57s 6d.

Item half ane elne of gray to þe collar and slewis of þis goune price—ij s vj d [474]

Item, ½ ell of gray for the collar and sleeves of this gown, price 2s 6d.

Item v quartaris gray sating to lyne þe sychtis of his sating goun price—lvij s ix d [464]

Item, 1¼ ells of gray satin to line the scyes of his satin gown, price 57s 9d.

Other construction details also occasionally appear. Buckram was used in several cases to line the borders of the gown [706, below] – probably for stiffness or to act as facings, sometimes specifically noted as a support for a fur border [171, below]. Buckram appeared in one case to “stuff the shoulders” [808, below], perhaps to achieve the fashionably broad line seen in Henry VIII’s court in England. In a few instances, the thread for sewing the gown was specified [464, below]. Item ane elne bukcrame to lyne þe bordouris of þe said gowne price þairof—iiij s [706]

Item, an ell of buckram to line the borders of the said gown, price thereof 4s.

Item ane elne of bukram to bordour his goun vnder þe furring—iij s vj d [171]

Item, an ell of buckram to border his gown under the furring, 3s 6d.

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Item ane elne of bukrame to stuf þe schulderis of þis goun—iiij s [808]

Item, an ell of buckram to stuff the shoulders of this gown, 4s.

Item thre vnce of sylk to steik his clathis— xviij s [464]

Item, 3 ounces of silk to sew his clothes, 18s.

N IGH T GOWNS The sixteenth-century night gown was not a garment for sleeping in but rather one to wear when not formally dressed. It was more like what would today be called a robe (in the United States) or since the eighteenth century a dressing gown (a term still used in the United Kingdom). It would have been worn for the most part at home, though there are references to such gowns in public.22 It was probably long but not as full as a gown and had long sleeves or hanging sleeves. Specific information about the details of this style in sixteenth-century Scotland is scarce, but sources farther afield may help to paint a picture. A portrait of the Scottish scholar Hector Boece from 1520–30 (fig. 5) and an extant English loose gown traditionally associated with Sir Francis Verney from the early seventeenth century23 might give some indication of the style. Cesare Vecellio, in his Habiti Antichi et Moderni of 1590, gives a detailed description of three types of gowns that were worn at home in Italy at that time. While these were not specifically called night gowns, they had the same function. All were floor-length with hanging sleeves that covered the arm to the elbow, and two had collars that varied in size, lined with fur in winter and lighter fabrics in summer. One was “worn open but belted, with one side wrapped over the other,” and another was “fastened with buttons, at least down to the belt.”24 A painting from 1570 called Death and the Maiden by an unknown artist25 shows a gown that both fits Vecellio’s description of a fur-lined, belted loose gown and closely resembles Verney’s gown. What can be seen of Boece’s gown also corresponds with Vecellio. As there are so few examples of men’s night gowns in the regency Accounts, it is difficult to draw many conclusions about construction. They seem to have required about the same amount of fabric as gowns in some cases, but not in others if one compares, for example, damask to damask to control for fabric width to some extent. A black damask gown and coat for the Regent called for 14½ ells (with the coat probably taking around 3), whereas his three tawny damask night gowns were 15, 12¼, and 10½ ells. Comparable amounts of fabric

 22

See M. Channing Linthicum, Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and His Contemporaries (New York: Hacker Art Books, 1972), 185, for a reference to Count Egmont, who wore a night robe at his 1568 execution, and other examples.  23 Photos and a pattern of this gown appear in Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c1560–1620 (New York: Drama Book, 1993), pp. 38, 98, and pattern 37.  24 Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones, eds., Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni: The Clothing of the Renaissance World (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008), 163.  25 Mark A. F. Weiss, ed., English and North European Portraits (London: Weiss Gallery, 1992), 3.



Men ’s G armen ts 37

Fig. 5: Hector Boece, by an unknown artist (ca. 1530; University of Aberdeen, Marischal Museum, no. ABDUA:31197). Photo: © University of Aberdeen.

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for gowns and night gowns could make sense: instead of being very full and knee-length, like a gown, night gowns were slimmer in shape but longer. The few examples of night gowns in the regency Accounts were even more restricted to men of high status than gowns were. Only the Regent, his sons, and his son-in-law received them. Of the nine night gowns for men appearing in the regency Accounts, four for the Regent were silk (tawny satin or damask), and five for others were wool of various types. Both silk and wool were sometimes trimmed with velvet. At least three were lined with fur. Others may have been as well, but the tendency to pay the furrier in lump sums for work done over a long period of time may conceal this. In the example below [510], the fur lining was to be complete except for the “forescyes,” which might mean the front part of the armscyes. As this is where sweat tends to collect, it would be wise not to put fur there. However, if “scye” is read more generally as an opening or the edge of an opening, another possible definition for “forescyes” is the front edges of the gown. The reasoning for not putting fur on the front edges is elusive unless it was intended that a more expensive fur be used there. Item to þe furrour for þe furring of his graces goun of tanny dalmes all thrt except þe foresytis—iiij li [510]

Item, to the furrier for the furring of his grace’s gown of tawny damask all throughout except the forescyes, £4.

Most of the grants for materials to make night gowns included buckram, and in two cases the use of it is specified [55 and 795, below]. Night gowns with and without fur linings had buckram, and it may be that it was used to stiffen the borders, as it was on gowns. Item thre quarteris bukram to lyne þe nek of þe said goun pryce—iiij s vj d [55]

Item, ¾ ell of buckram to line the neck of the said gown, price 4s 6d.

Item ane elne of bukrum to beir þe furring of þis goun—iiij s [795]

Item, an ell of buckram to bear the furring of this gown, 4s.

COATS In contrast to the gown, apparently all men wore coats. While fewer than fifty gowns appear in the regency Accounts (eight of which were for mourning), there are just over 250 coats (thirty-three of which were for mourning) ranging from double pile silk velvet for the Regent [716] to what was likely the cheapest wool or fustian for a poor boy named Pannycuke [16]. The latter got a coat, shirt, and breeches for a total of £1, while the Regent’s coat alone cost £31. The coat, when part of a full formal ensemble, was worn between the doublet and the gown. It could also be worn without the gown, however, if appropriate for one’s rank or the occasion. Several sixteenth-century depictions of coats survive from England and the Low Countries, such as the illumination showing Henry VIII with Will Somers, who



Men ’s G armen ts 39

Fig. 6: Will Somers, from The Psalter of Henry VIII, illustrated by Jean Mallard (ca. 1538–47; British Library, Royal 2 A XVI, fol. 63v, detail). Photo: © The British Library Board.

wears a long-sleeved green coat that, unusually, also has a hood (fig. 6).26 The painting of The Field of the Cloth of Gold includes numerous coat-wearers, especially in the area around the fountain (fig. 7). The man at the lower right wears a short-sleeved red coat over a tawny  26

Two green coats with hoods were ordered for Somers in June 1535. Maria Hayward, “‘The Sign of Some Degree’? The Financial, Social and Sartorial Significance of Male Headwear at the Courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI,” Costume 36 (2002): 12.

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Fig. 7: Detail of The Field of Cloth of Gold, by an unknown artist of the British School (1545; Royal Collection Trust, RCIN 405794). Photo: © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2018.

doublet, while the man seated near the center left wears a long-sleeved red coat very similar in shape to an extant garment from Germany.27 Sleeveless coats also existed at this time.28 An inventory of 1551 listed two coats without sleeves – one of damask and one of grosgrain.29 Many images of coats from this era show a relatively fitted torso with a waist seam and a skirt either sewn in flat or pleated or gathered into the seam. An extant Italian coat from  27

See Caroline Johnson, The King’s Servants: Men’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII, ed. Jane MalcolmDavies and Ninya Mikhaila (Lightwater, Surrey, UK: Fat Goose, 2009), 10. Johnson notes (18) that although the satin of the coat dates from the fifteenth century, the garment was altered to its present shape ca. 1530s. Mechthild Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation and Research: A Documentation of the Textile Department on the Occasion of the Twentieth Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation (Bern: Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung, 1988), 157, shows photos before and after conservation, and p. 461 has pattern shapes and technical details. See also Katrin Kania, Kleidung im Mittelalter: Materialien – Konstruktion – Nähtechnik, Ein Handbuch (Vienna: Böhlau Verlag, 2010), 332–34.  28 See, for example, Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s Landscape with the Fall of Icarus (ca. 1558; Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, Brussels), reproduced in Wolfgang Stechow, Pieter Bruegel the Elder (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1990), color plate 2; and fol. 26v (September) of the Golf Book by Simon Bening (1540s; London, British Library, MS Additional 24098), online at http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ ttp/golf/accessible/introduction.html (accessed Sept. 29, 2018).  29 James Raine, ed., Wills and Inventories Illustrative of the History, Manners, Language, Statistics, &c. of the Northern Counties of England from the Eleventh Century Downwards, part I (London: J. B. Nichols, 1835), 134.



Men ’s G armen ts 4 1

1549 has a skirt with a circular cut, which would have been sewn flat into the waist seam,30 while the German coat’s skirt is gathered. Simpler styles without waist seams appear in a few images.31 By the 1540s, most coats seem to have opened straight up the center front and had a high neckline in contrast with earlier styles that had a low square neckline and sometimes an asymmetrical closure. Like all garments in the Accounts, not all coats were listed with a full set of information. In some cases, even the main fabric type is missing, while in many others, the fabric is known but not the color.

Coats of Wool Constituting around two-thirds of the total, coats made of wool spanned the social scale from top to bottom. Where the color was specified, coats of wool were most commonly black, but tawny, violet, red, and a few other colors also made isolated appearances. Made most commonly of frieze, stemming, and black of various kinds, coats of wool for adults required around two or three ells. Only the Regent and his immediate family tended to receive trimmings, and those were most often in the form of velvet or satin to make borders. Those who usually received all the materials required for each garment almost always got lining, silk thread for sewing (either to construct the coat or to sew on the borders), and buttons for their coats [205, below].

 30

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris command deliuert to archibald dewar for ane coit of Inglis clay t bocht and deliuert to his grace contenand tua elnis and ane quarter price of þe elne lv s sma—vj li iij s ix d

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s command, delivered to Archibald Dewar for a coat of English cloth bought and delivered to his grace, containing 2¼ ells, price of each ell 55s; total: £6 3s 9d.

Item for tua elnis of welwot to nerve þe said coit price of þe elne iij li Summa—vj li

Item, for 2 ells of velvet to trim the said coat, price of each ell £3; total: £6.

Item thre elnis and ane half of bukrem to lyne þe said coit price of þe elne v s sma— xvij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of buckram to line the said coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 17s 6d.

Item for parys silk to It—x s

Item, for Paris silk for it, 10s.

Item thre dosane of buttonis to þe said coit price—xij s [205]

Item, 36 buttons for the said coat, price 12s.

Roberta Orsi Landini, Moda a Firenze 1540–1580: Cosimo I de’ Medici’s Style (Florence: Mauro Pagliai, 2011), 43.  31 For example, the man in taupe at the tail end of the ox wears one in Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s Census at Bethlehem (1566; Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, Brussels), reproduced in Stechow, Bruegel, color plate 27; as does Deserps’ laborer of 1562; Deserps, Collection, 47.

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Fustian, gray, and buckram appear most often as linings, and in several cases different kinds of lining were specified for various parts of the coat [331, below]. Though linings seem to have been usual for coats in the Accounts, unlined coats also existed. An Englishman described the extreme want of the people of Haddington (a town that the English had just taken) in November 1548 in part by noting that they went about “in their single white coats, for there is small provision of clothing.”32 Only the Regent received silk for facings (decorative linings along the edges) for the fronts and sleeve hems of several of his coats [700, below]. A few coats for the Regent also had pockets made of buckram. Item xxvijto fyve elnis and ane half fyne spanȝe freis to be ane cloke & ane cote to my lord gouernour þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li xviij s

Item, [September] 27th, 5½ ells of fine Spanish frieze to be a cloak and a coat for my lord governor, each ell 36s; total: £9 18s.

Item foure elnis blak bukrame to lyne þis cote þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of black buckram to line this coat, each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item tua elnis blak fustiane to þe bodyis of þis cote price—xvij s [331]

Item, 2 ells of black fustian for the bodies of this coat, price 17s.

Item ane quarter half quarter taffiteis of Janys to lyne þe breistis and handis of þis coit price þairof—vj s [700]

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta of Genoa to line the breasts and sleeve hems of this coat, price thereof 6s.

Many entries for coats also mentioned buttons, with examples of one dozen, eighteen, two dozen, and even three dozen appearing for adults. These buttons were usually not described, but a few were specified as being of silk [206, 615], though whether they are wrapped in silk thread or covered with or made from silk fabric is not clear. Some are “velvet,” presumably buttons covered with or made entirely of velvet [693, 744]. In only a few cases is the location of the buttons mentioned. One wool coat [796, below] had two dozen on the coat and two dozen put in the pocket of it – perhaps as extras in case some were lost? Item foure dosoun of buttonis quhairof tua dosoun put on þe cote, and tua put in þe pvche of It þe dosoun ij s Summa—viij s [796]

Item, 48 buttons, whereof two dozen put on the coat, and two put in the pocket of it, each dozen 2s; total: 8s.

People on the upper end of the social scale often received enough material for a matching coat and cloak, and this may have been a more casual alternative to the coat and gown. Most of the wool coats that the Regent ordered for himself came with a matching cloak. Matched coat/gown and coat/doublet sets do appear, though not as frequently. About 10% of the total number of coats appear in coat/hose/gown sets or coat/hose sets, but many of the coat/hose sets are display livery (see pp. 138–141).  32

The word “single” indicated a lack of lining, and “white” probably referred to Scottish white, an undyed, homespun fabric. Bain, Calendar, 166.



Men ’s G armen ts 43

The few riding coats were mostly confined to the upper reaches of the social spectrum. Most of those for the Regent were bordered with velvet, and one for his heir sported twelve ells of passementerie [92]. They took about the same amount of fabric as non-riding coats. In one example, the lining for the “tails” was listed separately from the lining for the bodies [281], so at least in that case it seems likely that there was a waist seam. Another riding coat certainly had sleeves, because they were specifically mentioned [449], but that does not mean that they all did. At least three of Bruegel’s paintings (The Procession to Calvary, The Slaughter of the Innocents, and The Conversion of Saul)33 show riders in coats with slits up the back of the pleated skirts. This may have been what distinguished a riding coat from any other sort. The skirt of the extant red satin coat from Germany is divided at center back in this way.34

Coats of Silk Silk coats make up around 20% of the total number of coats, and most of those were for the Regent and his sons and one nephew and brother. Almost two-thirds of them were velvet, with the remainder a scattering of satin, damask, grosgrain, and various types of taffeta. As with the wool coats, black predominated, followed by tawny and a few examples of red, white, gray, and purple. Most of the velvet coats were adorned with passementerie, while others tended to have velvet borders for decoration. This was not always the case, however – two velvet coats were bordered with velvet, and several taffeta and grosgrain coats had passementerie. In terms of quantities and types of linings and facings, the silk coats for the most part matched the wool coats. However, they sometimes had more expensive buttons of silver [386], gold [622], or silk and gold (sometimes matching the passementerie [474, 615]). Those of silver and gold might be made of precious metal, but in at least one case, they were made of “sewing gold,” or wrapped gold thread [512]. One set of coat buttons was described by the color, in that case matching the coat material [556], and another set by the location on the breast and sleeves [772, below]. Item xviij buttonis to þe breist & slewis of þis cote of my lorde gouernouris sonnes— iij s [772]

Item, 18 buttons for the breast and sleeves of this coat of my lord governor’s son’s, 3s.

In contrast to the wool coats, however, silk coats were never made with a matching cloak, which lends credence to the idea that the coat and cloak ensemble was considered to be less formal. Matching gown/coat combinations were far more likely among the silks than the wools, and there were several matching coat/doublet and a few gown/coat/doublet and coat/doublet/hose sets as well. Silk coats tended to require from three to six ells to make, depending on the width of the fabric.  33

Pieter Bruegel the Elder, The Procession to Calvary (1564), The Slaughter of the Innocents (ca. 1564), and The Conversion of Saul (ca. 1567), all in Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna; reproduced in Stechow, Bruegel, color plates 17, 19, 31.  34 Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation, 157, 461.

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Coats of Leather Leather coats were not confined to the lower classes, and in fact, the majority in the regency Accounts were given to men of high status. They constitute about 10% of the total number of coats. Most were made of two skins, sometimes described (Bordeaux, Moroccan, Spanish, and in one case, goatskin) and sometimes not. Of those given to people who usually received all of the notions and trimmings required for each garment, most had buttons (from two to twenty-four), but some did not. Only one explicitly included lining [358], but a few others might have been included in the “lining for all of these clothes” that sometimes served as a catch-all line item. A small number of leather coats for the Regent and his heir had trim of velvet or passementerie. No details of cut or construction emerge from these terse listings.

Cassocks Only two cassocks, both for the Regent, appear in the regency Accounts [117 and 383, below].35 Coats and cassocks are sometimes conflated in sixteenth-century records, as evidenced by the inventory of King James V’s clothing, taken in 1542, which lists cassocks among the coats.36 Similarly, an inventory of King Henry VIII’s clothing, taken in 1547, includes two coats with the comment, “The same is but a Cassocke.”37 The Regent’s cassocks have the distinction of being some of the very few coats fully lined in silk.

 35

lyne ane casak þe welwot gottin furth of þe castell of Edinburt foure elnis and ane half of taffate price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li xij s [117]

line a cassock the velvet gotten forth from the castle of Edinburgh, 4½ ells of taffeta, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 12s.

Item v elnis and ane half of reid taffate to lyne my lord gouernoures cassok of reid welwote þe welwote his awyn price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iiij li xix s

Item, 5½ ells of red taffeta to line my lord governor’s cassock of red velvet, the velvet his own, price of each ell 18s; total: £4 19s.

…

…

Item vij elnis of galdyn pasmentis to my Lord gouernoures reid cassok þe elne xiiij s Summa—iiij li xviij s [383]

Item, 7 ells of golden passementerie for my lord governor’s red cassock, each ell 14s; total: £4 18s.

It is possible that these were both the same cassock, as they were both described as being of velvet. However, the entries appeared three years apart, and both noted that the velvet was provided from another source as if the garments were being newly made. Also, they required different amounts of lining.  36 John Harrison, “The Wardrobe Inventories of James V (Particularly BL Royal 18C XIV F. 184–215)” [research report], Stirling Castle Palace Archaeological and Historical Research 2004–2008 (Edinburgh: Historic Scotland, n.d.), 15.  37 David Starkey, ed., The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and British Library MS Harley 1419, vol. 1, The Transcript (London: Harvey Miller, 1998), 435. The conflation of coats and cassocks, along with one of these examples, is also noted in Hayward, Dress, 105.



Men ’s G armen ts 45

CL OAKS Men’s cloaks were simple, loose outer garments worn about the shoulders and usually fastened at the neck. They sometimes also had sleeves. They are not as numerous as coats in the regency Accounts, but they still form a substantial category. Cloaks spread across the social spectrum, though unlike coats they stop short of the very bottom.38 Several cloaks survive from the sixteenth century, including one from 1560–75 at the Museum of London39 and three from the second half of the century in the Metropolitan Museum in New York.40 Janet Arnold took patterns from extant sixteenth-century cloaks of several types, among them full-circle, half-circle, cut in panels, and hooded.41 Most of the extant cloaks are hiplength, but images from the sixteenth century also show longer cloaks.42 A few portraits from Scotland also show men wearing cloaks. The fashion for wearing all black makes them difficult to distinguish, but both George Wishart (fig. 8) and Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley (fig. 9), wear cloaks as their outermost layer.43 Of the cloaks in the regency Accounts, just over half were ordered with matching coats, and three-quarters were made from either frieze or some variety of black (both of which were types of wool). Only two were made of silk [337 and 716], both riding cloaks, arguing for practical rather than decorative use of cloaks in general. Indeed, Sir David Lyndsay described himself getting dressed for a cold morning in his poem of 1528: “With cloke, and hude, I dressit me belyve, / With dowbyll schone, and myttanis on my handis”44 [With cloak and hood, I dressed myself presently / With double {or lined} shoes, and mittens on my hands]. Frieze cloaks usually required 2½ ells, while those made with a matching coat needed 4½ for both garments. Those made of Paris black took 3 to 3½ ells alone or 5 to 6 with a matching coat, suggesting that Paris black was narrower than frieze. As shown in Lord Darnley’s portrait (fig. 9), cloaks were sometimes trimmed with 1¼ to 1½ ells of velvet or satin (usually black, but sometimes tawny or red on tawny cloaks and in one case purple on a russet cloak). A few cloaks were decorated with passementerie. As was common on gowns and coats, a charge for silk sewing thread was often added for sewing on borders or trim. Linings are curiously almost completely absent from listings of cloaks. Only two cloaks were definitely assigned lining [658, 801], though four had velvet or taffeta lining at the neck [222, below; also 337, 498, 658]. Only four had buttons, and of these, one was unusual in that it also had sleeves with “ane dosane lang stalkit buttonis” [666, below]. While sleeved  38

Linthicum, Costume, 193 n. 3, references a letter of 1557 regarding English servants wearing “doublets without cloaks.”  39 Museum of London no. C2116.  40 Metropolitan Museum, New York, nos. 06.941, 36.46.2, 39.53.  41 Arnold, Patterns, pp. 35–37 and patterns 30–35.  42 Arnold, Patterns, 36, and Deserps, Collection, 36.  43 A letter from an English commander in February 1547/48 refers to men in their cloaks as “in maner of Skottes,” suggesting that cloaks were thought to be characteristic of Scottish men’s fashion or that there was a particularly Scottish way of wearing them; Bain, Calendar, 70.  44 Lyndsay, Works, 4. “Double shoes” might refer to shoes that had a lining or to the wearing of both shoes and pantonis (see below). Lyndsay’s imagined cloak seems to have been fairly long, as a few verses later he described himself lying down and curling up in his cloak so that his feet were covered by it (6).

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Fig. 8: George Wishart, by an unknown artist (1543; National Galleries of Scotland, PG 580, bequeathed by Mrs. May, 1898). Reproduced by permission.



Men ’s G armen ts 47

Fig. 9: Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, by Hans Eworth (1555; National Galleries of Scotland, PG 2471). Photo: Antonia Reeve. Reproduced by permission.

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cloaks were not by any means unknown – a 1564 inventory included “ii other cloks, th’one of them wtout sleeves,”45 for example – this is the only example in the regency Accounts that clearly has sleeves. Item half ane elne and ane nale of welwote to lyne þe Innersyde of þe nek of his graces ryding clok price—xxxix s iij d obolus [222]

Item, 9⁄16 ell of velvet to line the inner side of the neck of his grace’s riding cloak, price 39s 3½d.

Item to þe said archebald tobe ane cloik wt slevis to my lord gouernouris said sone tway elnis and ane half quarter fyne blak of þe seile of rowane price of þe elne iij li v s Summa—vj li xviij s j d ob

Item, to the said Archibald to be a cloak with sleeves for my lord governor’s said son, 2⅛ ells fine black of the seal of Rouen, price of each ell £3 5s; total: £6 18s 1½d.

Item to bordour þe samin v quarteris blak welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, to border the same, 1¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe bordouris of þe samin—xiiij s

Item, for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on the borders of the same, 14s.

Item ane dosane lang stalkit buttonis put on þe slevis of þe samyn price þairof—vij s

Item, 12 long-shanked buttons put on the sleeves of the same, price thereof, 7s.

Item for making of þe samyn—x s [666]

Item, for making of the same, 10s.

Of cloaks with identifiable colors, the vast majority were black. Most of the exceptions were part of display liveries (see pp. 138–141).

Pe The Regent’s nephew, James Hamilton (son of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart), is the only male to receive a pe, which was probably a type of cloak, in the regency Accounts [94]. His pe required 2¾ ells of fustian and was trimmed with passementerie of worsted. Because there are several examples for women, more detail can be found in the discussion of women’s garments in the following chapter.

Riding Cloaks The few riding cloaks for men seem for the most part indistinguishable from other types in the Accounts aside from their name. They are for the most part made from the same types and amounts of fabric as others, save that both of the silk cloaks are riding cloaks [337 and 716]. Two of them have velvet lining at the neck, and one of these linings seems to have

 45

Raine, Wills, 220.



Men ’s G armen ts 49

been added after the fact [222, above], implying some kind of discomfort that needed to be alleviated.

Spanish Cloaks Abraham de Bruyn’s image of a Spanish nobleman46 and John Baret’s Alvearie agree on the definition (“a spanishe Cape: a cloke with a hood”47). The addition of a hood would explain the slightly larger quantities of fabric associated with the handful of Spanish cloaks in the regency Accounts. Of these, most were for the Regent.

Jurnales The Regent received two jurnales, or journey cloaks. The Dictionary of the Scots Language defines these as “A kind of cloak worn over the armour, as when travelling,”48 but one was clearly meant for display rather than practicality. Made of fine crimson velvet lined with red taffeta [498], it was decorated with 12¼ ells of gold passementerie and twenty-four gold buttons [507]. The other jurnale was plain taffeta of cord [69]. The late King James V had several journey cloaks in his wardrobe, and they too were made of the finest fabrics and often heavily decorated. These included “ane jurnall of purpor velvot browderit with letters and crownis of gold”49 [a jurnale of purple velvet embroidered with letters and crowns of gold] and “ane uther jurnall of fresit clayth of gold cuttit out upoun crammesy satyn with ane byll with letters gangand about the bordors”50 [another jurnale of friezed cloth of gold cut out upon crimson satin with a scroll with lettering going around the borders].

D O U BL ETS Men’s doublets were a foundational garment in that they served to hold up the hose by means of ties, known as points. In this period, the doublet was typically waist-length, fitted closely to the torso, and had long sleeves. It might fasten in front with points, hooks and eyes, or buttons. Bruegel’s Wedding Dance of 1566 shows several doublets worn without  46

Arnold, Patterns, p. 15 and pattern 34. John Baret, An Alvearie or Quadruple Dictionarie (London: Henry Denham, 1580), s.v. “Cape.”  48 Dictionary of the Scots Language (online database; henceforth DSL), http://www.dsl.ac.uk, s.v. “Journe(e, Journa(y, Jurnay, n.” The DSL includes both A Dictionary of the Older Scottish Tongue (up to 1700) and the Scottish National Dictionary (1700–present). Definitions in this volume have been taken from A Dictionary of the Older Scottish Tongue unless otherwise noted.   49 Harrison, Inventories, 32. If this is the same as the “jornay of yallow greyne and purpour velvott” [jurnale of yellow, green, and purple velvet] in the inventory of 1542, it must have been quite eye-catching. Thomas Thomson, ed. A Collection of Inventories and Other Records of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewelhouse; and of the Artillery and Munitioun in Some of the Royal Castles. M.CCCC.LXXXVIII.–M.DC.VI (Edinburgh, 1815), 99.   50 Ibid, 28. A wool cloth described as friezed would have had a napped surface. In this context, friezed probably meant that the cloth of gold had a surface with raised gold loops, which may have been arranged in a pattern.  47

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coats, including one pointed to the hose and one whose front points have been removed (fig. 10). Simon Bening’s Golf Book of ca. 1540 includes several men wearing only doublet and hose, among them a huntsman with his blue doublet visibly pointed to his red hose.51 Near the end of the regency, the center front waist of fashionable doublets dipped into a lower V shape than it had previously.52 Because it was functional, the doublet was a necessary part of any ensemble,53 and it was generally included when a whole outfit was provided. The following example is a very typical grant for a mid- to upper-level servant of the Regent: velvet doublet, wool and silk hose, wool cloak, leather coat, and bonnet [359, below]. Item be his graces precept and spetiall commande to dauid hammiltoun of orbistoun xj quartaris welwote to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—ix li xvij s vj d

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, for David Hamilton of Orbiston, 2¾ ells of velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £9 17s 6d.54

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak to be him stokes of hois price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furthe þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item to be schankes to his hois—xx s j d ob

Item, to be legs to his hose, 20s 1½ d.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote price of þe skyn xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price of each skin 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item ane blak bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a black bonnet for him, 26s.

Item to him to by lyning to his doublat and hois—xxxvj s ix d [359]

Item, for him to buy* lining for his doublet and hose, 36s 9d. [*The y in by looks like it was written over the top of an e, so it is transcribed as “buy” rather than “be.”]

That the doublet in this grant was made of expensive velvet implies that it would be seen, either visible between the edges of the coat (see fig. 5) or worn with a cloak instead of a coat. A few people received doublets that matched or coordinated with some other part of the  51

See fol. 28v (November) of the Golf Book by Simon Bening (see note 28 above). Arnold, Patterns, pattern 1, and Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 59.  53 See p. 76 for one example of an alternative for hot weather, however.  54 The total should be £9 12s 6d.  52



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Fig. 10: Detail of The Wedding Dance, by Pieter Bruegel the Elder (ca. 1566; Detroit Institute of Arts, no. 30.374, City of Detroit Purchase). Photo: Bridgeman Images.

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ensemble. The Regent, of course, was most notable among these, but even he had relatively few such outfits. One, all of gray, has already been noted [474; see above, under “Gowns”]. Others included a set all of tawny with a grosgrain gown and coat bordered in velvet, a satin doublet, and velvet hose [826]. Such coordinated sets were reserved for the upper end of society and display livery (see pp. 138–141). On the lower end of the social scale, the majority of doublets were made of more utilitarian fabrics (often fustian or canvas) and were probably hidden by the coat most of the time. Even those of highest rank owned doublets made of humbler fabrics, presumably for those occasions when the doublet would be hidden in wear.55 Several recipients got both a silk and a canvas or fustian doublet in the same grant, perhaps to allow for variation [for examples, see 158 and 634]. No doublets of leather appear in the regency Accounts, but there is a reference in Christ’s Kirk on the Green, a poem ascribed variously to James I and James V,56 to a man in a fight whose doublet protected him from a heavy blow: “His doublet made o’ leather / Saift him that day.”57 The distribution of doublet fabrics in the regency Accounts is rather striking in that just over half of them were of silk (usually velvet, satin, or taffeta). The Regent may skew this, as he alone received a third of the silk doublets. Alternatively, it may have been because doublets took a relatively small amount of silk (2½ to 3½ ells of satin, 3 of velvet, and 2½ of taffeta), and thus were a cheaper site for using expensive fabrics. The rest of the doublets are mostly distributed between fustian and canvas, with wool a distant last. Where the color is listed (in about half of the cases) black predominates heavily, and gray, white, tawny, red, and purple occasionally appear. Many grants for doublets also included lining, stiffening, and buttons. Most linings, even for silk doublets, were of fustian or canvas. In a few cases, doublets that were slashed or pinked had a decorative silk lining of taffeta [231, 716, 814].58 Stiffening was usually of canvas, and the amounts imply that the canvas was used as an underlining throughout the body of the doublet but not in the sleeves. Where buttons were included, there were most commonly from twelve to twenty-four of them. In one case, silk thread for binding the buttonholes was specified [797], but it is probably safe to assume that all buttonholes would have been bound with thread, though perhaps not always with silk.59 Only two types of specialty doublets appear in the regency Accounts: harness doublets and false doublets. For harness doublets, see Chapter 3. For false doublets, see Chapter 4.

 55

Sir William Cavendish (husband to Bess of Hardwick) had a fustian doublet in 1550; Santina M. Levey, “References to Dress in the Earliest Account Book of Bess of Hardwick,” Costume 34 (2000): 19.  56 A. W. Ward et al. The Cambridge History of English and American Literature in Eighteen Volumes, vol. 2, The End of the Middle Ages (1907–21; New York: Bartleby.com, 2000), chap. 11, section 3, http://www. bartleby.com/212/1103.html.  57 John Callander, Two Ancient Scottish Poems: The Gaberlunzie-Man and Christ’s Kirk on the Green, with Notes and Observations (Edinburgh: J. Robertson, 1782), 138.  58 For an example of a slashed doublet of this period, see the white velvet giubbone of Pietro of Aragon, 1552, in Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 64.  59 For extant examples of buttonholes, see Arnold, Patterns, 15, 20, 23–27, 29–30, 39.



Men ’s G armen ts 5 3

HOSE Hose covered the male body from waist to feet. Along with a shirt, they were considered the minimum amount of clothing for a man to be decently dressed.60 Two English commanders fielding troops against the Scots in 1547 complained of a lack of basic necessities, one claiming that his men “have neither shirt nor hose, and many fall sick daily”61 and the other that his men were “in a manner naked, having neither shirts nor hose for their backs.”62 There may have been more than one style of hose made from the grants of fabric in the Accounts. It is likely that the upper classes were wearing two-part hose that were full from waist to above the knee but fitted from that point to the foot, like those of Lord Darnley (fig. 11). An unidentified man in red from ca. 1548 also wears hose of this type, though they are less rounded, as was the fashion earlier in the century.63 However, it is unclear whether at this time in Scotland the lower classes were still wearing one-part hose that were fitted all the way to the waist, like those in Bruegel’s Wedding Dance (fig. 10).64 This style of hose is the precursor to the two-part hose and was still worn in other countries through 1540, especially among the lower classes.65 Wall paintings completed during the regency at Kinneil House, the chief seat of the Hamiltons, show one-piece hose with slashes over the thighs (figs. 12 and 13). The terminology in the Accounts is inconsistent, sometimes using “thighs” or “stocks” and sometimes simply “hose” to indicate the upper portion. Some that were only designated as “hose” might possibly have been one-part hose, though the amounts of fabric allowed are consistent with what was given for thighs of hose. However, some “hose” were not allowed sufficient fabric for one-part hose. Both styles of hose were attached to the doublet with points, which were pulled through eyelets (bound with thread) at the waists of both garments. Both one-part hose and the thighs of two-part hose also had a functional codpiece that was tied at the top corners with points and could be undone if the wearer needed to answer a call of nature.66 Lord Darnley’s can be seen peeking between the skirts of his doublet in fig. 11.

 60

This may not be true for the more remote regions of the Highlands, whose dress at this time is still something of a mystery. It was rendered exotically by a sixteenth-century artist from France; see “The savage of Scotland” and “The savage captain” in Deserps, Collection, 70–71. In 1538, King James V ordered a short highland coat, long highland shirts, and hose made from highland tartan (which was not necessarily plaid), clearly distinguishing these “highland” clothes from what he would normally wear; Paul, Accounts, 6:436.  61 Bain, Calendar, 35.  62 Ibid., 49.  63 Portrait of a Man in Red (see note 8 above).  64 For an extant pair of hose made in this style, see Hayward, Dress, 102.  65 For other examples, see fols. 19v, 23r, 23v, 24v, 28v, and 29r of the Golf Book by Simon Bening (see note 28 above).  66 For the logistics of codpieces as demonstrated by sixteenth-century examples, see Arnold, Patterns, patterns 1, 4, 5, 6. Although the latter three are pluderhosen, and thus probably of a different style than those worn in Scotland, the principle of the codpiece is the same.

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Fig. 11: Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley, and his brother Charles Stewart, Earl of Lennox, by Hans Eworth (1563; Royal Collection Trust, RCIN 403432). Photo: © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2018.



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Fig. 12: Detail of wall painting, Kinneil House, Parable Room (ca. 1550; Historic Environment Scotland, SC 1208109). Photo: © HES.

Fig. 13: Detail of wall painting, Kinneil House, Parable Room (ca. 1550; Historic Environment Scotland, SC 1208145). Photo: © HES.

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Stocks or Thighs of Hose Two-part hose consisted of the stocks, or thighs,67 and the shanks, or legs (see next section). The thighs were full and became rounder over the course of the regency. They might be plain, or they might be paned, like Lord Darnley’s (fig. 11). In this case, the main fabric would be used to create the flat panels, or panes, and there would be a wool fabric for lining (to line the back of each of the panes and to create a shorter inner layer to allow the panes to blouse over) plus a taffeta layer “for drawing forth.” In other words, the taffeta would be sewn between the outer layer of panes and the inner wool lining in order to puff out in the vertical spaces between the panes. It is likely that each time they were worn, the taffeta had to be drawn forth between the panes for the best effect. Below is a typical order for this type of hose, with purple velvet for the main fabric, red wool for the inner lining, and taffeta for drawing forth [231, below]. Item þe samyn day tua elnis fyne purpure welwote to be ane pair of stokes of hois to þe said James þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, the same day, 2 ells of fine purple velvet to be a pair of stocks of hose for the said James, each ell £4; total: £8.

…

…

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item to lyne þe said hois iij quartaris reid price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxj s [231]

Item, to line the said hose, ¾ ell of red, price of each ell 28s; total: 21s.

Plain hose (that is, without panes) also had wool inner linings and were sometimes allowed enough of the main fabric that it could be used for both the outer and the lining layers. A small percentage of thighs of hose were part of a matched set all made in the same fabric, usually hose/doublet, hose/coat, or hose/coat/cloak. These combinations spanned the social scale, though as noted above, cloaks stopped short of the very lowest. A very few pairs of hose were part of a grander outfit, of either matched fabrics or fabrics all of the same color but different textures, in full hose/doublet/coat/gown sets. The small numbers of matched sets involving hose may have been due to the fact that coats often had a long enough skirt to conceal most or all of the stocks, so it was not as important that they match the rest of the ensemble. The vast majority of thighs of hose were made from several types of wool, including stemming, utterfine, and several varieties of blacks and grays. Around 10% were of velvet, with only one example of satin. Silk stocks were almost exclusively confined to the very highest part of society. Amounts of fabric cover a wide range, even among examples of the same fabric for the same person, which may speak to a variety of styles. In some cases, silk thread for sewing is also allowed for stocks. A very few were decorated in some way with passementerie or bands of fabric, usually in a contrasting texture, such as

 67

These might, in other countries, also be called “upper hose.”



Men ’s G armen ts 57

velvet on wool or taffeta on velvet. All of the hose with trimming were for either the Regent or his son David. In cases where the color was specified, most thighs of hose were black or gray, with a few examples each of red, purple, tawny, and white. Among hose that might be of the one-piece style, black, gray, and white predominated.68 There are several examples of red hose in this category as well, though many of them were display livery (see pp. 138–141).

Shanks or Legs of Hose The shanks, or legs,69 covered the knees, calves, and feet and were probably sewn to the bottoms of the thighs of hose. The extant hose of Andreas Wild II are attached in this way,70 and hose in Florence were also sewn together: “Today I shall remove the stockings of the grooms and I shall stitch wool ones to the velvet cosciali [upper stocks].”71 The length of legs of hose for men depended on the stocks with which they were worn, because it was unfashionable to have bare skin showing between them. Indeed, legs would frequently be ordered with the thighs of hose they were intended to accompany [512, below]. Because the feet would wear out fastest, sometimes two pairs of legs were requested for one pair of stocks so that they could be swapped out when holes developed [634, below]. Item tua elnis tannye welwote to be ane pair of theis of hois to his grace price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of tawny velvet to be a pair of thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

…

…

Item fyve quartaris fyne stemmyng of myllane to be schankes to þir hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—lvj s iij d [512]

Item, 1¼ ells of fine stemming of Milan to be legs for these hose, price of each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

Item tobe him ane vthir pair of hois wt twa pair of schankis ane elne of gray stemmyng of myllane price þairof—xl s [634]

Item, to be another pair of hose for him, with two pairs of legs, an ell of gray stemming of Milan, price thereof 40s.

Several legs of hose survive to show the cut and construction. Although they vary in the exact design, most have a main portion that wraps around the leg with a seam at the back and extends over the top of the foot in front. This is slashed on both sides to the anklebone  68

The use of simply “hose” rather than “thighs of hose” and the lack of silk for drawing forth indicated possible one-piece hose.  69 These might, in other countries, also be called “nether hose.” Landini (Moda: Cosimo, 88) has translated the Italian as “stockings,” but this term was not commonly used until later in the century.  70 Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation, 222. Although this outfit is probably a costume meant to represent Wild’s grandfather, who had been a mercenary in the late fifteenth century, Wild was a tailor, and it is reasonable to assume that he constructed the hose in a way that made sense to him.  71 Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 78. Landini also notes that “in the inventory of 1553 calze [trunk hose] and stockings are considered as a single item, a further proof of the fact that they were normally stitched together.”

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and triangular gussets added. A sole completes the shape.72 All are cut on the bias73 in order to allow for stretch and a close fit. A few of the legs of hose in the Accounts were allowed silk thread for sewing, and one entry gives more specific information about the uses of the thread [826, below]. Item ane quartar of ane vnce of tannye silk to steik þe buttoune hollis and þe guscheatis and pyis of þir hois—ij s [826]

Item, ¼ ounce of tawny silk to sew the buttonholes and the gussets and eyelets of these hose, 2s.

The buttonholes were probably in a doublet that was ordered earlier in the same grant. The gussets were probably in the legs and the eyelets in the thighs. Because of the need for a certain amount of give, some fabrics were better than others for making legs of hose. The vast majority in the regency Accounts were made from stemming, a lightweight wool. A few other types of wool (among them black, scarlet, and utterfine) were also occasionally used. Usually legs of hose required ⅝–⅞ of an ell of stemming, and it seems likely that the many grants for 1¼ ell were probably for two pairs even though that is not specified. Groups of four pairs required only two ells, because it was far more efficient to cut more pairs at a time from a larger piece of fabric. Among those whose color was specified, the majority were black, with small numbers of gray, red, and white. These latter colors always matched the stocks with which they were ordered (when the color of the stocks was given), but black legs of hose were ordered to go with thighs of other colors as well.

Riding Hose Only two examples of riding hose appear in the regency Accounts. One was certainly a thighs-and-legs combination [428, below], but the other is unclear [94, below]. No information was given that distinguishes riding hose from other types of hose.

 72

For sixteenth-century examples, see Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation, 226; Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 88, 90; Julie Gardiner, ed., Before the Mast: Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose (Portsmouth, UK: The Mary Rose Trust, 2005), 57; and Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland, Textiles and Clothing c. 1150–c. 1450 (London: HMSO, 1992), 189.  73 In British English, “cut on the cross.”



Men ’s G armen ts 59

Item boucht fra James stewinsoun to be ane pair of ryding hois to my lord gouernour thre quartaris and ane half franche blak price—xxix s iiij d

Item, bought from James Stevenson to be a pair of riding hose for my lord governor, ⅞ ell of French black, price 29s 4d.

Item thre quartaris of blak welwote to bordoure þir hois price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet to border these hose, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 56s 3d.

Item vj quartaris taffate of corde to lyne þir hois—xxxiij s ix d

Item, 1½ ells of corded taffeta to line these hose, 33s 9d.

Item ane vnce of silk to sew þir hois—vij s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew these hose, 7s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þir hois—xxij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line these hose, 22s 6d.

Item ane elne and ane quartar of Stemmyng boucht at James barroun to be schankes to þir hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—lvj s iij d [428]

Item, 1¼ of stemming bought at James Barroun to be legs for these hose, price of each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

Item v quarteris quhyte to be him ane pair of ryding hois price of þe elne vij s vj d Summa—ix s iiij d

Item, 1¼ ells of white to be a pair of riding hose for him, price of each ell 7s 6d; total: 9s 4d.74

Item for lynnyng to þame—iij s [94]

Item, for lining for them, 3s.

B REEKS Breeks in modern Scots are simply trousers, but this translation renders this word as “breeches,”75 because it seems likely that in the sixteenth century, breeks were equivalent to the garment sometimes known as “Venetians.”76 These covered the body from waist to just below the knee, full at the top and narrowing at the bottom. A slightly later example can be seen in the portrait of Prince James as a child of eight years old from 1574 (fig. 14). This is appropriate, because the small number of breeks in the regency Accounts were designated for young boys. All four sons of the Regent and a poor boy named Pannycuke received breeks. They were ordered with legs of hose (sometimes in a matching color) and points,  74

The total should be 9s 4½d. Although clothing histories tend to assign this term to a particular eighteenth-century style, the word has been used since the early Middle Ages to refer to a knee-length bifurcated garment. See Oxford English Dictionary, online ed. (New York: Oxford University Press, 2000–; henceforth OED), http://www.oed. com, s.v. “breech, n.”  76 An extant pair survives from 1581. Landini, Moda: Cosimo, figs. 44a, b, and c.  75

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Fig. 14: King James I of England and VI of Scotland, by an unknown artist (1574; National Portrait Gallery, London, NPG 63). Photo: © National Portrait Gallery.



Men ’s G armen ts 61

making it likely that they were secured and worn in the same manner as stocks. Almost all had a matching doublet or coat. There is no certain indication in the regency Accounts that parents in Scotland at this time dressed very young boys in floor-length garments, as would be done later (see fig. 11).77 It is possible that the boys’ coats were simply cut longer than an adult’s would be (this would be invisible in the Accounts). Interestingly, none of the Regent’s sons except for the youngest, Claude, received much in the way of clothing before age six, which at some point became the traditional age of breeching, or dressing a boy in garments more like an adult’s,78 but Claude received breeches at age three or so [460], so either the practice was inconsistent, or it had not yet been adopted.

SHIRTS Shirts provided a washable layer to protect the outer clothing (which could only be aired and spot-cleaned) from the wearer. In order to be launderable, they were almost always of white linen, which could be scrubbed and laid in the sun to bleach. The standard man’s shirt of the second half of the sixteenth century had a relatively full body and sleeves, cut as rectangles, gathered into a standing collar fitted snugly to the neck and cuffs at the wrists. Although there would have been fastenings such as ties or hooks at neck and wrists, no evidence of fastenings appears in the regency Accounts. One of the Kinneil House paintings shows a shirt with a collar that echoes the modern style, but this may just be a depiction of a band collar worn open (fig. 13). At this point in the century, there might have been ruffles, or ruffs, sewn to the edges of collar and cuffs, but they would have been relatively small. Another Kinneil House painting shows a shirt with a very small ruff at the neck (fig. 12). Several shirts with small ruffs survive from the sixteenth century, one of which is from England just before the period of the Earl’s regency (fig. 15). Some shirts listed in the Accounts were made with ruffs of a specific, finer fabric that was listed separately [598, below]. Sir William Cavendish also had shirts with “borders and cuffs” of a finer fabric.79

 77

Item x elnis and ane half lynnyng clathe deliuerit to Besse mwrray to be sarkis to his graces sone Dauid price of þe elne iij s vj d Summa—xxx s vij d

Item, 10½ ells of linen cloth delivered to Bessie Murray to be shirts for his grace’s son David, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 30s 7d.80

Item half ane elne hollande claith to be rwffis to þe craiggis and handes of þir sarkis—x s [598]

Item, ½ ell of Holland cloth to be ruffs for the necks and wrists of these shirts, 10s.

Schuessler, “Children’s Clothing,” 185. Anne Buck, Clothes and the Child: A Handbook of Children’s Dress in England 1500–1900 (New York: Holmes and Meier, 1996), 149.  79 Levey, “References,” 20.  80 The total should be 36s 9d.  78

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Fig. 15: Linen shirt (England, ca. 1540; Victoria and Albert Museum, London, no. T.112-1972). Photo: © Victoria and Albert Museum.



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Of those without such an addendum, it may be that they were made with ruffs of the same fabric as the rest of the shirt, or it may be that some Scots were still wearing an older style of shirt, which would have been cut narrower through the body and sleeves and would not have had ruffs. The latter seems more likely, as there was a clear period of transition in the entries in the Accounts. The first shirts to have ruffs specifically listed were those made in April 1549 for the Regent’s sons David and Claude. Through the rest of 1549, some shirts had ruffs listed and some did not, but from 1550 onward, all shirts had ruffs except for those designated for Robeson, the Regent’s fool. It is almost impossible to tell how much fabric was used to make a single shirt, because fabric for shirts was bought in bulk, to be made up as needed. Quantities from seven to thirty-eight ells at a time were ordered, usually with no indication of how many shirts would be made. Handkerchiefs and nightcaps were often made of the same fabric and would be included in the intended uses, complicating the issue further. In only two cases can a number of shirts be matched with a length of fabric. The Regent’s brother James was granted 10½ ells for three shirts [85], and Jacobus Narratius was given 15 ells for three shirts [415]. The discrepancy could be due to variances in fabric width, shirt style, or body size. The fabrics used for shirts in the regency Accounts fell within a narrow range, including various qualities of Holland, cambric, Bretagne cloth, and more generic linen. Relatively few people received shirts, not because few wore them, but because they were basic undergarments and thus only given to the Regent, those who were personally dependent on the Regent, and those to whom he wished to give a very complete set of clothing. Only the Regent, his sons and brothers, his pages, his fool, and a few others fell into these categories. In several cases, amounts of money rather than amounts of fabric were granted for shirts. This could be a payment for workmanship (and it was sometimes specified as such), a grant of funds intended for the recipient to commission a shirt, or possibly for the purchase of a shirt ready-made. It could also be that for a basic garment like a shirt that required little tailoring or fitting, tailors charged a set amount. As ever, context is important for the interpretation of these items. The payment to Bessie Murray [97, below] is one of many to her for shirts for the Regent. There are others [e.g. 75] that are specifically described as payment for labor, so this may be a similar charge. The second example below [720] is part of a grant of clothing for Robeson, the Regent’s fool. The other items in the grant are fabric and labor for garments to be made up by a tailor, but the wording of this item – “to him to buy himself shirts and shoes with” – seems to indicate either ready-made pieces or pieces commissioned separately by Robeson. The final example below [79] is more enigmatic. It is part of a list of clothing for one of the Regent’s brothers, including grants of fabric to be made up, and could indicate almost any scenario on the bespoke-to-ready-made continuum. The price per shirt is slightly lower than the Regent’s shirts, but high relative to the Regent’s pages and fool, which may argue for the custom-made end of the scale. Item þe vj day of nouember to besse murray for thre sarkis to my lord gouernour—vj li [97]

Item, the 6th day of November, to Bessie Murray for three shirts for my lord governor, £6.

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Item to hyme to by hym sarkis and schone witht—x s [720]

Item, to him to buy himself shirts and shoes with, 10s.

Item for thre sarkis to him—xxxiij s vj d [79]

Item, for three shirts for him, 33s 6d.

H E ADWE AR Men’s headwear in sixteenth-century Scotland can be categorized by time of day: bonnets and hats were worn by day, and nightcaps, kerchiefs, and coifs by night. Headwear had practical as well as decorative and symbolic uses. During the day, bonnets and hats protected the wearer from sun and drizzle. Although one might well wish to avoid exposing a silk-covered hat to the rain, many bonnets were made from felted knit wool that would shed light moisture and remain warm even if wet. At night, medieval and Early Modern people in cooler climates commonly slept with their heads covered for the simple reason that their homes were not necessarily warm during the night, and covering the head while sleeping greatly helps the body to retain heat in a cold room. Headwear, like most other items of clothing and accessories, also indicated status. Whereas any man might wear a bonnet, hats were generally reserved for those high on the social and economic spectrum. Even bonnets could mark status with the quality of their materials, construction, and decoration.

Bonnets The bonnet was the standard male headwear of this period (figs. 3, 8, and 9).81 It was analogous to the English cap but retained its popularity in Scotland for so long that it became regarded as a distinctly Scottish form of headwear.82 Nearly seventy different men, spanning most of the social scale, were given bonnets in the regency Accounts. In general, a bonnet was a flat cap with a circular brim. Two of the Stirling Heads show an older fashion of bonnet, also popular in England, with the flat brim in front but the back extending down towards the ears.83 Bonnets might be made of felted knitted wool or of cut and sewn fabric (fig. 16).84  81

It can also be seen in other paintings and engravings from both England and Scotland and even in sculptures such as the Stirling Heads. See Bennett, “Scots Bonnet,” figs. 231, 232. See also Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, The Stirling Heads: An Account of the Renaissance Wood-carvings from the King’s Presence Chamber at Stirling Castle (Edinburgh: HMSO, 1960), plates 11, 14, 22, 24, 35.  82 Bennett, “Scots Bonnet,” 546.  83 Royal Commission, Stirling Heads, plates 14, 24.  84 The Victoria and Albert Museum and the Museum of London hold many examples of both types from the sixteenth century. See also Gardiner, Before the Mast, 31–35, for woolen caps; Landini, Moda: Cosimo, figs. 97, 99, 100 for velvet ones; and Arnold, Patterns, figs. 212–17, for a felt one with a wool pile. A photo of an extant knitted bonnet from Scotland that is possibly from the late sixteenth century appears in Bennett, “Scots Bonnet,” fig. 233. It is similar in shape but has a narrower brim with strips of cloth knotted



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Fig. 16: Knitted and felted bonnet (London, ca. 1500–50; Victoria and Albert Museum, London, no. 1566-1901). Photo: © Victoria and Albert Museum.

A sixteenth-century Scottish coin known as a “bonnet piece” shows James V wearing this ubiquitous cap.85 Examples in the Accounts include bonnets of velvet, cloth (wool), woven silk,86 and many whose material was not listed. Of those with a specified color, most were black.87 Exceptions were usually part of display livery (see pp. 138–141). through it on the sides. For an extant example of this coin, see Bennett, “Scots Bonnet,” fig. 230, or http://www.gla.ac.uk/media/ media_305437_en.jpg (accessed Aug. 5, 2015).  86 This would be a very unusual description for a silk fabric that was woven on a loom, and it could mean silk strips that were woven into a decorative lattice. Known as strapwork, this technique became popular in the second half of the sixteenth century, especially in England. There is a strapwork bonnet on a carved wooden panel thought to be from 1540s Dundee (National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh, no. H.KL 204, online at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mid-16thC_Judgement_of_Solomon_ carving,_Dundee.JPG, accessed Oct. 28, 2015) and a strapwork caul or coif on one of the Stirling Heads (Royal Commission, Stirling Heads, plate 12). It is possible, however, that the fabric was described in this way because bonnets were most commonly knitted rather than made of woven cloth. Bennett, “Scots Bonnet,” 552.  87 This is consistent with Henry VIII’s inventory of 1547–50, in which 85.7% of caps were black. Hayward, “Sign,” 4.  85

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Bonnets for the Regent and his sons were sometimes custom-made, especially those of velvet. In such cases, a list of materials was given including an exterior fabric, a lining fabric (usually satin), and buckram as an interlining to help hold the shape. Usually ½–⅝ of an ell was required for the exterior, ⅛ of an ell for the lining, and ⅜–½ of an ell for the buckram. Two surviving silk bonnet linings from the Mary Rose (1545) are roughly square with circular patterns of stitching holes, showing that one possible method involved lining only the crown of the bonnet.88 Another extant bonnet, from Sweden in 1567, has a silk lining stitched to the underside of the brim and a circular felt interlining that probably supported the shape of the crown.89 Many of the other bonnets seem to have been ready-made, probably of felted knit or cut and sewn wool. These ranged widely in price (and presumably quality) from 3s to 28s 6d. Ready-made velvet bonnets started at 17s and could be as expensive as 45s. Although many images of bonnets from the sixteenth century show them decorated with metal aglets or feathers, few of the entries in the regency Accounts mention such adornments. Feathers and aglets (in the Accounts referred to as “horns of gold”) each have a single reference [827 and 459, below]. Item ane welwote bonet to him—xxxiiij s

Item, a velvet bonnet for him, 34s.

Item ane fedder to it—ij s [827]

Item, a feather for it, 2s.

Item to James barroun for ane bonet of welwote to my lorde gordoun—xl s

Item, to James Barroun for a bonnet of velvet for my lord Gordon, 40s.

Item for robanis to þe hornis of gold put vpoun þe same bonet—iij s [459]

Item, for ribbons for the horns of gold put upon the same bonnet, 3s.

Some bonnets were apparently fragile enough to warrant special boxes for storage and some valuable enough to require locks. Fourteen bonnet cases appear in the regency Accounts, two of them with locks. At least two of the cases were meant to hold more than one bonnet. The lock added about 10s to 15s to the price of a bonnet case, which ranged from 3s to 4s for cases without locks. Several mentions of “capcases,” including one with a lock, also appear in wills from the area of Durham in the 1550s and 1560s,90 and in Henry VIII’s inventory of 1547.91 Capcases were also apparently used for other purposes, as one is listed “for to carye yor letters in.”92 Riding bonnets and mourning bonnets are the only specialty types mentioned in the regency Accounts. They fall within the same price range as others, and there is no indication of what might have differentiated them from others.  88

Gardiner, Before the Mast, 34–35 and plate 4. Arnold, Patterns, 31, 93.  90 Raine, Wills, 223.  91 Starkey, Inventory, 88, 89, 400 [16025].  92 Daniel Gurney, “XXII. Extracts from the Household and Privy Purse Accounts of the Lestranges of Hunstanton, from A.D. 1519 to A.D. 1578; Communicated by Daniel Gurney, Esq. F.S.A., in a Letter to Sir Henry Ellis, K.H. F.R.S., Secretary,” Archaeologia: or, Miscellaneous Tracts Relating to Antiquity (1834): 559.  89



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Hats Hats at this time were generally made either of felt, molded to shape, or of molded felt covered with fabric. They often had decorations such as hatbands, feathers, and metal pieces (usually in the form of an ensign or brooch). Several extant hats survive from the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries, though apparently none from Scotland.93 The shape and size of hats shifted over time, of course, and there is unfortunately little indication in images from the regency of what the fashion in hats was in Scotland at this time. If the Accounts are anything to go by, hats were quite rare and confined to only the highest-ranked men in sixteenth-century Scotland. Only eighteen hats for men are mentioned in the regency Accounts, and of these, ten were for the Regent. The single low-status recipient of a hat was the Regent’s page, who commonly wore display livery and thus was wearing a hat for his lord’s honor, not his own. In some cases, only a price is given for a hat, ranging from 6s 8d (for the page) to £3 (for the Regent). These may or may not have been ready-made. In other cases, hats were at least partially made to order. A few hats, all of them for the Regent, were specified as being covered with taffeta or velvet and/or lined with taffeta or satin [383 and 392, below]. Only one had trim [797, below]. Item for ane bair hat of felt to mak ane welwote hat to my lorde gouernour—v s

Item, for a bare hat of felt to make a velvet hat for my lord governor, 5s.

Item for ane elne of welwote to couer þe said hat—iij li xv s [383]

Item, for an ell of velvet to cover the said hat, £3 15s.

Item to Danyelstoun tailȝeoure to mak my Lorde gouernoures welwote hat—xxij s vj d [392]

Item, to Danielston, tailor, to make my lord governor’s velvet hat, 22s 6d.

Item quartar & half quartar armosene taffateis deliuerrit to þe said archiebald to lyne ane spanȝe felt hat of my lorde goures— xiij s vj d

Item, ⅜ ell of armosene taffeta, delivered to the said Archibald to line a Spanish felt hat of my lord governor’s, 13s 6d.

Item half ane vnce steking silk to steik þe same—iiij s

Item, ½ ounce of sewing silk to sew the same, 4s.

Item v quartaris pasment silk to put aboute þis hat þe elne xvj d Summa—xx d [797]

Item, 1¼ ells of silk passementerie to put about this hat, each ell 16d; total: 20d.

Night Kerchiefs, Caps, and Coifs It is unclear what, if any, difference existed between night kerchiefs, caps, and coifs. Kerchief implies a simple flat piece of fabric wrapped about the head, while nightcaps were cut and  93

Arnold, Patterns, 32–34.

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sewn items, usually made of several tapered panels, of which several survive from later in the century.94 A portrait miniature of Henry Fitzroy from 1533–34 may indicate the type of headwear indicated by the word “cap” in the Accounts.95 His cap was made round to fit close to the head and seems to have had a tie under the chin. It could have been made in the same manner as the extant caps cited above. The word “coif ” referred to a medieval style of headwear of a different construction but also closely fitted to the head and perhaps tied under the chin, though this is not necessarily what the scribes of the Accounts intended when they used this word. Many French words for clothing and accessories made their way into the Scottish vocabulary during this time due to Scotland’s alliance with France, and in France, coif simply meant a caul or cap for the head.96 However, the shape of the medieval coif did survive in the mid-sixteenth century. Two portraits of young children show it (Edward, Prince of Wales, ca. 1538, and Hercule François, Duke of Alençon, Anjou, and Brabant, ca. 1556–58),97 but there are also adult versions in the portrait record (Henry VIII’s Barber Surgeons, ca. 154398 and John Poyntz, before 1543).99 Two extant versions in silk also survive, these apparently worn by adult men.100 Although none of these are made of linen like those in the Accounts, they provide a possible alternative style that would make sense of a distinction between caps and coifs. Because night kerchiefs, caps, and coifs were made from the same materials as shirts and napkins, and because these materials were bought in bulk, it is impossible to determine how much fabric was used for each piece. Also, it may be that such items, because they required small amounts of fabric that could be drawn from materials that were kept on hand, were often made without a reference appearing in the Accounts. Therefore, it is difficult to even establish how many were made or with what frequency they were replaced. Only the Regent received items in this category. Whether his sons might have had them made from some of the bulk purchases of linen that were sent to them for shirts and napkins is of course unknown. That they were specified only for the Regent implies that they were an even more intimate item than shirts. Some details of construction do emerge from the Accounts. A few caps were lined with linen [821, below], and some had ribbons which in one case were “to bind on the said caps” [509]. They were sometimes decorated with embroidery [533, below] or copious amounts of trim [821, below].  94

Victoria and Albert Museum, London, nos. T.224-1968 and T.55-1947, for example. See also Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women c. 1540–1660 (London: Macmillan, 2008), 12.  95 Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond and Somerset by Lucas Horenbout (ca. 1533–34; Royal Collection, London), reproduced in Hayward, “Sign,” 3.  96 Randle Cotgrave, A Dictionarie of the French and English Tongues (London: Adam Islip, 1611), s.v. “Coiffe.”  97 Arnold, Shirts, Smocks, 18–19.  98 Buck, Holbein, figs. 120, 121.  99 K. T. Parker, ed., The Drawings of Hans Holbein in the Collection of His Majesty the King at Windsor Castle (London: Phaidon, 1945), fig. 54. 100 Gardiner, Before the Mast, 35–37. Kirstie Buckland, the author of the section on the silk coifs, pointed to the portraits of the barber surgeons and John Poyntz. Since one of the extant coifs was found in the barber surgeon’s cabin on the Mary Rose, she speculated that this style of headwear was associated with the medical profession but noted that John Poyntz was not known to have medical connections.



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Item to Couchrane broudstar for ane nycht how to my lorde gouernour wroucht wt gold and blak silk In iiij crounis of þe sone—iiij li x s [533]

Item, to Cochran, embroiderer, for a night cap for my lord governor, wrought with gold and black silk, in 4 crowns of the sun, £4 10s.

Item tua elnis small hollande claith to be nycht quaiffis to my lorde gouernoure price of the elne xiij s Summa—xxvj s

Item, 2 ells of fine Holland cloth to be night coifs for my lord governor, price of each ell 13s; total: 26s.

Item tua elnis rounde hollande claithe to lyne thir nycht quaiffis of my Lord gouernourres pryce of þe elne viij s Summa of the tua elne—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of heavy Holland cloth to line these night coifs of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 8s; total of the 2 ells, 16s.

Item vxx elnis blak trasis to be put vpoun þir quaiffis of my lorde gouernoures þe elne vj d Summa—l s

Item, 100 ells of black traces to be put upon these coifs of my lord governor’s, each ell 6d; total: 50s.

Item thre quarteris of ane vnce blak silk to sew on þir trasis þe vnce viij s Summa—vj s [821]

Item, ¾ ounce black silk to sew on these traces, each ounce 8s; total: 6s.

Shoes Extant men’s shoes from the mid-sixteenth century were almost all made with leather uppers and a flat leather sole. Some were made as slip-ons and some with fastenings.101 During the middle of the century, the square-toed shape popular in the court of Henry VIII coexisted with shoes that had a rounder toe.102 A relatively small number of men and boys received shoes in the regency Accounts. The Regent, of course, got more shoes than the rest combined. The distribution of shoes was similar to shirts, involving mostly the Regent, his family, those to whom he provided a full set of livery clothes, and a few others. Most of the shoes for men and boys other than the Regent were simply listed with a purchase price, ranging from 18d to 3s, with no indication of their style or the materials from which they were made. It could be that these were ready-made. The majority of the Regent’s shoes had uppers of velvet and seem to have been made to order. From ¼ to 5⁄16 of an ell were usually needed for a single pair. Other materials, such as for the soles and stitching, were not specified, but occasionally the cordwainer would send a bulk bill for materials and labor [175, below]. Because these bills sometimes included more than one recipient and more than one type of footwear, it can be difficult to gauge how many 101

Gardiner, Before the Mast, 59–94, and June Swann, History of Footwear in Norway, Sweden, and Finland (Stockholm: Kungl. Vitterheits Historie och Antikvitets Akademien, 2001), 81–87. 102 Marquita Volken, Archaeological Footwear: Development of Shoe Patterns and Styles from Prehistory till the 1600’s (Zwolle: SPA Uitgevers, 2014), figs. 236, 239, 248.

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shoes any one person received [677, below]. Such bills were sometimes recorded long after the work was done. A bill for shoes and boots for the late King James V was entered in 1550, eight years after his death!103 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to thomas myrreleis his gracis cordiner for buttis schone and other necessaris furnist to his grace fra þe xxviij day of december in ao domini xlijto exclusive to þe xxiiij day of december instant as þe said thomas tickat of compt heir present to schaw particularlie beris þe sowme of—lvj li iiij s [175]

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Thomas Myrreleis, his grace’s cordwainer, for boots, shoes, and other necessities furnished to his grace from the 28th day of December in the year of our Lord 1542 exclusive to the 24th day of this December, as the said Thomas’ ticket of account here present to show bears out in detail, the sum of £41 4s.

Item to homeir leis for buttis and schone furnist to my lord gouernour, and schone and pantonis to his graces lady and barnis fra þe xxviij day of september last bipast to þis day conforme to þe said homeris byll of compt heir present to schaw—v li [677]

Item, to Homer Leis for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor, and shoes and slippers for his grace’s lady and children, from the 28th day of September last past to this day, conforming to the said Homer’s bill of account, here present to show, £5.

Almost all of the shoes whose color was specified were black. A very few exceptions in white or gray sometimes matched formal monochromatic outfits made for the Regent. In an era with very little pavement, white velvet shoes were probably only worn indoors and in any case were a very conspicuous form of consumption [40, 80, 435, 521]. Two types of specialty shoes appear in the regency Accounts. The Regent had both a pair of “high” and a pair of “low” shoes made in November 1543 [57]. It is unclear whether “high” refers to the cut of the uppers or perhaps to a raised sole (see “Pantonis,” below).104 The subsequent listing of “low” shoes might simply be an attempt to distinguish them from the previous “high” ones, or it could mean the cut was different.

Pantonis Pantonis, also called pantobles or pantofles, were either slippers or slip-on overshoes. According to June Swann, unlike wooden-soled fifteenth-century overshoes they had cork soles.105 Elizabeth Semmelhack defines a pantoble as a “mule with either a flat or platform 103

NRS E21/42/372r. Jane E. Huggett also notes a pair of high shoes in an Essex will of 1574, and in her opinion they are shoes with heels. “Rural Costume in Elizabethan Essex: A Study Based on the Evidence from Wills,” Costume 33 (1999): 78. Two additional pairs of “heye shoys” appear in the household accounts of the Lestranges of Hunstanton in the 1530s. Gurney, “Extracts,” 512, 549. 105 Swann, Footwear, 86–87, 319. There is a collection of images of pantofles from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries at http://aands.org/raisedheels/Pictorial/illustrations.php#wee (accessed Aug. 5, 2015) and also in Ruth Matilda Anderson, Hispanic Costume 1480–1530 (New York, Hispanic Society of America, 1979), 82. 104



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sole”106 (fig. 13 shows a pantoble of this type worn over a dark shoe in the lower right corner). In 1583, Philip Stubbes described them this way in his Anatomie of Abuses: they have corked shooes, pinsnets, and fine pantofles, which beare them vp a finger or two from the ground; whereof some be of white leather, some of black, and some of red, some of black veluet, some of white, some of green … to what good vses serue these pantofles, except it be to wear in a priuate house, or in a mans Chamber to keepe him warme? (for this is the onely vse wherto they best serue in my iudgement) but to go abroad in them, as they are now vsed al together, is rather a let or hinderance to a man then otherwise …107

Swann also notes that accounts frequently list shoes and pantobles together, implying a matched set of shoes and overshoes,108 and that is often the case in the Accounts as well. Among the men, only the Regent received pantonis, and they made up a relatively small percentage of his footwear. They were usually of black velvet, and in a few cases, demigrain was allowed for a lining for them. A pair with uppers of black velvet survives from Italy, and Roberta Orsi Landini suggests that due to their size they were probably worn as overshoes, possibly over boots when coming in from outdoors.109 A velvet pair from Bohemia110 and a leather pair from Spain,111 both with cork soles, are also extant. These tend to be in the form of mules, having uppers only across the front.

Boots and Buskins Relatively few pairs of boots survive from the sixteenth century. Those that do are knee- or thigh-high like the ones James V wears in his image from the Seton Armorial (fig. 3).112 Only the Regent, his sons, his brothers, and one nephew received boots. Judging from the one pair that was listed separately from other items, at 10s boots were quite expensive compared to shoes. The Accounts give no other details of materials or construction. Buskins were even more valuable, and only one pair is mentioned (for the Regent, of course) for £3 8s, requiring two Spanish skins to make and two more to remake when the first pair proved to be too small [706 and 728]. Ruth Matilda Anderson gives evidence that buskins were thin, close-fitting half-boots,113 and a 1557 portrait of Gustav Vasa shows him in short, supple-looking boots that fit this description.114 Sir Thomas Lestrange of Hunstanton 106

Elizabeth Semmelhack, On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels (Toronto: Bata Shoe Museum, 2009), 103. 107 Philip Stubbes, Phillip Stubbes’s Anatomie of the Abuses in England in Shakspere’s Youth, A.D. 1583, ed. Frederick J. Furnivall (London: N. Trübner, 1877–79), 57–58. 108 Swann, Footwear, 97. 109 Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 160–61, figs. 105a and b. 110 Michal Lutovský and Milena Bravermanová, Hroby a Hrobky Našich Knížat, Králů a Prezidentů (Prague: Nakladetelství Libri, 2007), 175. 111 Antonio Pareja, ed., La Moda Española en el Siglo de Oro: Museo de Santa Cruz, Toledo, 25 de marzo–14 de junio de 2015 (Toledo, Spain: Castilla-La Mancha, Quixote/Fundación de Cultura y Deporte, 2015), 352. 112 Gardiner, Before the Mast, 74–78, 84–86. 113 Anderson, Hispanic Costume, 79–80. 114 Gustav Vasa by Willem Boy (1557; Nationalmuseum, Stockholm), reproduced in Swann, Footwear, fig. 96.

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purchased a pair of white buskins and two pairs of “drye buskyns,” which may have been intended to keep the wearer’s feet dry in wet weather.115

Socks Socks could be distinguished from legs of hose in both materials and function. Though both were designed to fit closely to the lower leg and foot, in the regency Accounts, legs of hose were made of wool and were probably attached to the bottom edge of the thighs of hose, while socks were made almost exclusively of buckram and were probably worn with boots for riding.116 The first pairs in the regency Accounts are listed as riding socks [17, below], and others are listed in conjunction with boots, spurs, or riding coats and cloaks [141 and 524, below; also 616]. One pair for the Regent was even included in expenses for the stable instead of in the section detailing purchases for the Regent and his family, where it would normally be listed [818]. It is not clear whether they were worn instead of legs of hose or over them to protect the hose from the inevitable friction of boots. Item gevin for twa elnis canves to be þame ryding sokkis, price of þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—iiij s viij d [17]

Item, given for 2 ells of canvas to be riding socks for them, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 4s 8d.

Item for buttis spurris and sockis—xix s [141]

Item, for boots, spurs, and socks, 19s.

Item to Robert gourlay þt he gaif for ane pair of sockis and spurris to his grace—xj s x d ob [524]

Item, to Robert Gourlay, that he gave for a pair of socks and spurs for his grace, 11s 10½d.

Socks in the regency Accounts are an exclusively male item. Almost all of the socks went to the Regent, with five other people receiving one pair each. As might be expected, the list of recipients of socks aligns fairly closely with the list for boots. The few made of something other than buckram were of other types of linen save one pair made of red stemming for the Lord Gordon. They almost always required 1¼ ells per pair, suggesting that, like legs of hose, they were cut on the bias for a closer fit.117 Examples may be found in England and Spain as well. An Englishman named Mr. Gostwick had “a payer of boutte hosses” from London in 1555,118 and Philip II of Spain wears thigh-high linen socks under his knee-high boots in his portrait of 1557.119

115

Gurney, “Extracts,” 511–12. These were all purchased in 1537. Marshall, “Kingis Grace,” 15. 117 The need for about twice as much buckram for socks as stemming for legs of hose is due to the difference in the widths of these fabrics. 118 ECRO D/DP A11, 8v. 119 Portrait of Philip II in Armor by Antonis Mor van Dashorst (1557; Monasterio di San Lorenzo, El Escorial, Spain), reproduced in Landini, Moda: Cosimo, fig. 49. 116



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O TH ER ACCE S S ORIE S Gloves Gloves were as much decorative as functional in the sixteenth century. More portraits show people holding gloves than wearing them, and they were frequently given as favors and gifts,120 especially to mourners at funerals.121 George Wishart and Henry Stewart both hold gloves in their portraits (figs. 8 and 9). Gloves might also serve as a type of synecdoche, or symbol of their owner; when the Earl of Lennox attacked a castle, its captain demanded his gloves as proof of his identity before he would surrender.122 Though ecclesiastical gloves were sometimes knitted of fine silk,123 extant secular examples are almost exclusively cut and sewn of fine leather.124 It was common to order multiple pairs of gloves – in one case, the Regent bought twenty-four pairs [498]125 – and most pairs cost in the range of 1s to 2s. The Accounts occasionally include helpful details about materials and purpose, including a pair of leather gloves to go inside the Regent’s gloves of plate [127], two pairs made of dog leather lined with kidskin [774, below], and three pairs of perfumed gloves [774, below].126 The Regent’s son David received two single shooting gloves for archery [556, below, which also lists a brace for his forearm, and 829] as well as the only pair of mittens in the regency Accounts [774, below].127

120

For example, Henry VIII often received them as New Year’s gifts. Hayward, “Dressed to Rule,” 74. Susan Vincent, Dressing the Elite: Clothes in Early Modern England (New York: Berg, 2003), 65–71. 122 Bain, Calendar, 19. 123 See for example a pair of gloves at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, no. 437&A-1892. 124 See for example a pair of gloves at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. C.I.40.194.28a, b, and Henry VIII’s hawking glove at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, no. 1656 p. 49, the latter reproduced in Hayward, “Dressed to Rule,” plate 50. For an overview of various types of gloves and mittens from the period illustrated with extant examples, see Annemarieke Willemsen, “Taking Up the Glove: Finds, Uses and Meanings of Gloves, Mittens and Gauntlets in Western Europe, c. AD 1300–1700,” Post-Medieval Archaeology 49, no. 1 (2015): 1–36. 125 Henry VIII also purchased gloves in bulk. Hayward, Dress, 115. 126 Robert Dudley, later Earl of Leicester, bought several pairs of perfumed gloves for himself between 1558 and 1561. Simon Adams, ed., Household Accounts and Disbursement Books of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995), 57, 134, 147. 127 Two left mittens made of leather were recovered from the wreck of the Mary Rose (1545); Gardiner, Before the Mast, 55–56. The Museum of London also has a fifteenth-century leather mitten (no. 79.142), and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, has a similar one from the sixteenth century (no. T.621-1913). 121

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Item thre pair of perfvmyt gluffis to my lorde gouernour—ix s

Item, three pairs of perfumed gloves for my lord governor, 9s.

Item tua pair of dog ledder gluffis lynit wt cheveronis to his grace—viij s

Item, two pairs of dog leather gloves lined with kidskin for his grace, 8s.

Item to Dauid stewart ane dosoune of pair of gluffis to his grace bairnis—xviij s

Item, to David Stewart, 12 pairs of gloves for his grace’s children, 18s.

Item ane pair of myttanis to his grace sone Dauid—iij s [774]

Item, a pair of mittens for his grace’s son David, 3s.

Item ane bow and ane dosoun arres to him—xxiiij s

Item, a bow and a dozen arrows for him, 24s.

Item brais and schuting glufe to him—v s vj d [556]

Item, brace and shooting glove for him, 5s 6d.

Handkerchiefs Contrary to the modern usage of the term, handkerchiefs were called napkins in sixteenth-century Scotland128 and were usually made of Holland or cambric. Like other intimate linen items, they were confined in the Accounts to the Regent and his children. And like nightcaps, their small size and the bulk purchase of linen might disguise the true number that were made. Those for the Regent stand out, however, due to their often expensive decoration.129

128

Item þe samyn day deliuerit to þe said Robert to be his grace sarkis and naipkynnes xvj elnis small hollande claith quhairof iiij elnis cost xv s þe elne þe other xij elnis & ane half cost xij s þe elne Summa x li ij s vj d

Item, the same day, delivered to the said Robert to be shirts and handkerchiefs for his grace, 16 of ells fine Holland cloth, whereof 4 ells cost 15s each ell, the other 12½ ells cost 12s each ell; total: £10 2s 6d.130

Item gevin to corde þir naipkynnes tua half hankes of sewing gold price—xvj s [412]

Item, given to cord these handkerchiefs, two half hanks of sewing gold, price 16s.

What we call napkins (which were more generally what we might think of as hand towels rather than solely an accessory for the dining table) were in sixteenth-century Scotland referred to as serviettes, after the French, as in this grant for the Regent’s daughter Anne: “Item vj elnis bartane claith to be naipkynnis and seruiettis to hir chalmer þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s” [Item, 6 ells Bretagne cloth to be handkerchiefs and serviettes for her chamber, each ell 4s; total: 24s.] [842]. 129 In this, he followed Henry VIII, who had decorated handkerchiefs even for his bath. Hayward, Dress, 107. 130 Not only do 4 and 12½ not add up to the 16 ells mentioned in this line item, the given total is incorrect for 16½ ells at the prices listed. However, 3½ ells at 15s per ell and 12½ ells at 12s per ell add up to the total amount of fabric and price listed in the manuscript.



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Item xmo octobris deliuerit to besse murray tobe kemmyng claithis ny t quaffis and napkynnis to his grace viij elnis holand clat price of þe elne xij s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, October 10th, delivered to Bessie Murray to be combing cloths, night coifs, and handkerchiefs for his grace, 8 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 12s; total: £4 16s.

Item to hir to by gold to cord ane dosane of Napkynnis witht—xxiij s [649]

Item, to her to buy gold to cord a dozen handkerchiefs with, 23s.

Belts and Garters The belts and garters listed for men in the Accounts were very frequently made as matching sets. The belt was not to hold up the hose, as it would for modern trousers, but rather to support the sword and dagger131 or to put the finishing touch on an outfit. Belts were generally worn over the coat but under the gown or cloak (fig. 9). Garters were tied above or below the knee (or both, if cross-gartered) and served to keep the legs of hose from sagging so that they would lie smoothly on the lower legs. Like many other small accessories, grants of belts and garters were confined to a limited family group: the Regent, his sons, a brother, and a nephew. With only two exceptions, men’s belts and garters in the regency Accounts were made from silk fabric (taffeta of the cord, of Genoa, or of four threads) or ribbons. The exceptions are a sword belt – whose material was not specified except that it was to be ornamented with silver – and a mourning belt of black stemming. The fabric belts and garters were made in several different colors including black, white, gray, red, yellow, and purple, often matching a garment or even an entire ensemble that was ordered at the same time. A typical belt and a pair of garters required one to two ells of taffeta, so they were often cut and sewn rather than woven to shape. Although images of belts from this time period often show buckles and other hardware, there is no mention of these in the regency Accounts.

Points Points were the small ties that fastened the hose to the doublet by passing through stitched eyelets132 and thus were an integral part of any outfit. They also served to attach pieces of armor to arming doublets. Some points survive from the sixteenth century,133 and they show what was probably typical: a narrow woven or braided tape with conical metal aglets at each end. Aglets were decorative as well as making it easier to thread the points through the eyelets, but no aglets for points are mentioned in the regency Accounts. 131

See, for example, three sets of late-sixteenth-century belts and sword hangers in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, nos. 29.158.718, 29.158.719, 29.158.729. 132 Landini, Moda: Cosimo, figs. 37a and b, 38. 133 Ibid., and Hayward, Dress, fig. 6.11. The Museum of London has at least two: no. A12580 and one listed as having no number but reproduced in Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, Dress Accessories c. 1150–c. 1450 (London: HMSO, 1991), fig. 181.

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All of the points whose material was specified were described as “silk” or “silken,” though this reflects the elite nature of their recipients rather than common practice. Unlike most other textile accessories in the Accounts, the type of silk used is never specified, and there was never a charge for making them, so they were probably purchased ready-made by the tailor and re-sold. They were generally sold by the dozen, and prices from 18d to 3s per dozen were common. In only a few cases is the color given, and those seem to have been purchased to match a specific ensemble. As might be expected, most of the points whose purpose was specified were for hose, but one set was for the Regent’s jack apron and sleeves [338]. Another reference to points comes from a mourning coat for the Regent, which had latchets to which he could tie his points in hot weather, thus making it possible for him to wear the coat without a doublet underneath [595, below]. Item half ane elne bukrame to be lachettis to my lorde gouernoures dule cote to knet his pointis to In het wedder—ij s vj d [595]

Item, ½ ell of buckram to be latchets for my lord governor’s mourning coat to tie his points to in hot weather, 2s 6d.

Although points belong to the same category of small accessories as belts, garters, and gloves, a slightly larger group received them, including the Regent, his sons, brothers, pages, and William Bannatyne, Lord Corehouse.

Combing Kerchiefs Only three mentions of combing kerchiefs (in one case called combing cloths) appear in the regency Accounts, all of them for the Regent.134 It is likely that these were cloths to lay over the shoulders while combing the hair in order to protect the clothing from any fallout. Like shirts, napkins, and nightcaps, they were made from bulk orders of linen. The charge of 16s for labor for one set implies that there was more to the making than simply hemming the edges unless a large number of them were made at once [233, below].

134

Item vij elnis fyne small hollande claith to be camyng curchays to his grace price of þe elne xvj s Summa—v li xij s

Item, 7 ells of very fine Holland cloth to be combing kerchiefs for his grace, price of each ell 16s; total: £5 12s.

Item for making of þir curchays—xvj s [233]

Item, for making of these kerchiefs, 16s.

Cosimo de Medici had a number of combing cloths, some elaborately decorated. Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 144.



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Combs The Regent and his son David received combs. Probably made of wood, these combs were likely double-sided, with coarse teeth on one side and fine on the other. Extant combs of this style survive in both wood and ivory135 and were imported into London in large quantities.136

C O N CLU SION The Accounts paint a picture of the range of clothing choices available to men in sixteenth-century Scotland. Many acknowledged the vicissitudes of the climate (cloaks and bonnets) or the particular needs of the wearer (riding gowns). Some were clearly intended to show wealth and rank (silk gowns with silk and gold passementerie), while others represented the day-to-day wear of the majority of men (woolen coats). The Accounts show that, metaphorically speaking, Scotsmen put their hose on one leg at a time just like everyone else. For example, like most of Europe, they held up their hose with points and wore garters to keep the shanks smooth on their calves. More distinctively, Scottish boys wore breeks instead of hose with their shanks. In terms of color, Scotsmen preferred black, it seems. Many others did as well,137 though it is striking just how prevalent black was in the wardrobes of the Accounts. Most clothing was made of wool, with silk reserved for the wealthy or special occasions. The wool came mainly from local sources, France, the Low Countries, and Italy, while the silk came from abroad. Despite intermittent war with England during this period, trade and communication continued to supply Scotland with imported materials and information regarding styles in other countries. Through the Accounts, it is clear that Scotsmen, despite their geographic remoteness, took their place in the midst of European fashion culture.

135

Geoff Egan, Material Culture in London in an Age of Transition: Tudor and Stuart Period Finds c 1450–c 1700 from Excavations at Riverside Sites in Southwark (London: Museum of London Archaeology Service, 2005), 64–65. 136 Joan Edwards and J. L. Nevinson, “The Rates of the London Custom House in 1550,” Costume 4 (1970): 6. 137 See John Harvey’s extensive study of the history of black in fashion: Men in Black (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1995).

Chapter 2

Women’s Garments Sum wyfes of the borroustoun Sa wonder vaine ar, and wantoun. In warlde thay wait not quhat to weir, On claythis thay wair monye a croun: All for newfangilnes of geir.

[Some wives of the borough-town So wondrous vain are, and wanton, They don’t know what in the world to wear: On clothes they spend many a crown; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.]

—Satire on the Toun Ladyes by Richard Maitland1

The women’s clothing records in the Accounts make up about a quarter of the total and include less variety of recipients. They are confined to the Regent’s family, his servants and those of his wife and children, and those whom he considered his dependents. A very few charity gifts of clothing were also granted to women. Many listings are for main garments only, as for the most part only the women of the Regent’s family and his wards received linens and accessories. The grants to those few, however, give detailed information regarding the colors and fabrics most commonly used for particular garments, the ways in which whole outfits might be assembled, and what types of garments were worn by which classes. Most of the women represented in the Accounts were members of the upper reaches of society or their personal servants, so the basic list of clothing worn was similar for all, though the quality and specific style of the garments varied based on the status of the wearer. A woman of high rank would begin with a white linen smock and over that wore a kirtle that might be stiffened in the bodice to provide bust support. The kirtle sometimes had sleeves, or separate undersleeves might have been worn with it. A gown was worn over the kirtle and might have been one of several different styles. A partlet of velvet or satin was sometimes worn over the gown. Hose (reaching to the knee and most likely secured with garters tied around the leg just below the knee), shoes, and some form of headwear would have completed the ensemble. A number of other garments for women are mentioned in the Accounts, among them cloaks, skirts, hoods, hats, safeguards (for riding), and many accessories. It is likely that Scottish fashion closely mirrored that of England, France, and the Low Countries due   1

Maitland, Quarto, 42; see Appendix 4.iii.



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Fig. 17: Margaret Tudor with a nobleman (possibly Henry Stewart, first Lord Methven) and a servant, by an unknown artist (ca. 1535–40; National Galleries of Scotland, PGL 2379). Photo: © Bute Collection.

to proximity, alliance, and trade, respectively, and the garment names and details in the Accounts support that hypothesis. Women’s styles from this period in Scotland are even more elusive than men’s, however. Visual evidence such as paintings or woodcuts is needed to match the textual data, but very little exists from this period in Scotland. A portrait from 1535–40 showing a style heavily influenced by English fashion appears to depict Margaret Tudor along with a man (possibly Henry Stewart, first Lord Methven) and a servant (fig. 17).2 Margaret Tudor, sister to King Henry VIII, was queen to King James IV of Scotland from 15033 to 1513 and lived until 1541. She no doubt brought English fashion to the court during her reign as queen, but normal cross-border traffic would have had the same effect on a broader scale. The Spanish diplomat Don Pedro de Ayala remarked in 1498 that Scottish women “dress much better than [in England], and especially as regards the head-dress, which is, I think, the handsomest in the world,”4 so there was apparently some distinction between English and Scottish styles at the turn of the century.   2

Henry Stewart, Lord Methven, was Margaret’s third husband. These identifications and dates are given by the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, where the painting is currently displayed. The sitters’ identities and the date of the painting are both somewhat speculative, however.   3 Although technically she was married to King James IV via treaty in 1502, Margaret did not travel to Scotland for the wedding until 1503.   4 Brown, Early Travellers, 47.

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This three-quarter-length portrait shows Margaret in a narrow-sleeved, black, probably wool gown with black velvet trim and cuffs over a reddish-brown kirtle and a smock with bands of what may be cutwork or needle lace5 at neckline and sleeve hems. She also wears a black velvet partlet with a high collar (the interior of which is white with a broad band of cutwork or needle lace at the collar – this may or may not be attached to the partlet as a lining), a white kerchief over her shoulders, and an arrangement of layered coifs and caps similar to those worn by some women in England. Completing the ensemble are a metal girdle with two medallions, a double-looped black necklace, several rings, and a small posy tucked into her bodice. A gown of a similar style (though with a closed skirt and a simpler partlet) can be seen on a woman sitting on the steps of the fountain in The Field of the Cloth of Gold (fig. 7). This portrait of Margaret is a bit of a mystery, the exploration of which may shed light on the date of the painting and its accuracy as a source for information on clothing styles. It has elements that are somewhat unusual for the sixteenth century, such as the curved sides of the bodice, the girdle, and the voluminous white sleeves emerging from the cuffs of the gown. Overpainting may have obscured or changed details important to dating this painting, and the paint does have an unusual texture along the sides of the bodice. Although the curved bodice shape suggests a Victorian “correction” to the usual straight-sided sixteenth-century style, it has been this shape since at least 1799, when an engraving of it was published in John Pinkerton’s Scotish Gallery.6 Some overpainting may have occurred in the nineteenth century, as a listing of 1854 referred to its “ruined state,”7 and its “partial restoration” was mentioned in an article of 1893.8 It appears fully restored at present. Consideration of the people depicted and the reason the painting was created may also guide an estimation of its date and its usefulness to scholars of dress. Æneas Mackay argued that the left-hand male figure was John Stewart, Duke of Albany and sometime regent for James V from 1514 to 1524, and that therefore the painting must have been completed by 1524.9 The painting includes a wealth of symbolic content,10 which may imply a political purpose. Mackay posited that the purpose was to quash rumors of an affair between Margaret   5

Thanks to Marie Schorn for her identification of this lace, which may help to establish a date for the painting. The lifetime of Margaret Tudor was early for this type of lace, but it is not inconceivable that she might have had some. A few examples of somewhat similar work can be seen in Italian and French portraits, though they are all dated to the 1540s and ’50s, e.g., Portrait of a Lady by Paris Bordone (ca. 1545; private collection), online at http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2008/old-masterpaintings-evening-sale-l08033/lot.70.html (accessed Dec. 7, 2016), and Anne d’Este, Duchesse de Guise by François Clouet and workshop (ca. 1559; Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris), reproduced in Alexandra Zvereva, Portraits dessinés de la cour des Valois: Les Clouet de Catherine de Médicis (Paris: Arthena, 2011), 361. Mary I wore partlets with standing collars such as Margaret Tudor has in this portrait, but Mary’s were lined with embroidered fabric and appear in portraits from the 1550s.   6 John Pinkerton, The Scotish Gallery; or, Portraits of Eminent Persons of Scotland (London: E. Harding, 1799, unpaginated).   7 G. Friedrich Waagen, Treasures of Art in Great Britain (London: John Murray, 1854), 482.   8 Æ. J. G. Mackay, “Notice of a Portrait Group of Margaret Tudor, the Regent Albany, and a Third Figure; the Property of the Marquis of Bute, at Cardiff Castle, Glamorganshire,” Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland 27 (1892–93): 190.   9 Ibid.  10 See ibid., 199–201, for detailed descriptions.



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Tudor and Albany, but if it depicts someone other than John Stewart, or if the painting was done later in her life or after her death, the intention may have been different, which might have changed the way that the fashions were portrayed and whether they were realistically depicted. For example, Margaret seems to have often dressed in a finer fashion, especially during her reign, but this depiction of her leans towards the bourgeois.11 It could be that Margaret herself never actually dressed this way but that the artist painted her in this light to make a comment about her personally or about her circumstances. Although this painting is tempting as one of very few images of women from this period in Scotland, it must be approached carefully. Despite the need for caution, Margaret Tudor’s clothing in this portrait does resemble that of others from near this period in England. It is, for example, strikingly similar to a portrait sometimes identified as Lady Jane Grey12 and shares aspects (especially the headwear, partlet, and shoulder kerchief) with several others.13 Given the likely influence of English fashion on Scotland, Margaret Tudor’s ensemble may represent a fair summary of what a woman of means might wear every day, though many women in the Accounts seem to have worn black hoods rather than white caps.14  11

See Beer, “Translating,” on the magnificence of Margaret’s wardrobe at the beginning of her reign. For records from a few years later, see Paul, Accounts, 6:20 (cloth of gold), 28–32 (amongst the many items of clothing and unassigned pieces of velvet, damask, satin, taffeta, and ermine and other furs, there are only two instances of wool for gowns), 207–18 (here too the plethora of silks and furs is leavened with two gowns of wool), and 367 (a piece of taffeta). These records are from James IV’s lifetime, and Margaret’s clothing as dowager queen may have been of a simpler character. After James’s death, the Accounts list cash payments to her, but not clothing for her (Paul, Accounts, 5:567, 6:582), and she complained that she had “as simple living as any poor gentlewoman might have”; J. S. Brewer, ed. “Henry VIII: February 1522, 1–15,” in Letters and Papers, Foreign and Domestic, Henry VIII, vol. 3, 1519–1523 (London: HMSO, 1867), 866–83, no. 2054, cited in Mackay, “Notice,” 196 n. 4.  12 Lady Jane Grey (?) by an unknown artist (after 1541; private collection), reproduced in Bendor Grosvenor, ed., Lost Faces: Identity and Discovery in Tudor Royal Portraiture (London: Philip Mould, 2007), cat. 18. J. Stephan Edwards has argued that the sitter was Mary Nevill Fiennes, Lady Dacre, and notes (in the online version of his article) another researcher’s question on whether the linen puffing on the undersleeves (which is oddly cut off on the sitter’s left) might have been added as part of a restoration attempt; J. Stephan Edwards, “A Life Framed in Portraits: An Early Portrait of Mary Nevill Fiennes, Lady Dacre,” British Art Journal 14, no. 2 (2014): 14–20 and online at http://www.somegreymatter.com/wrestpark. htm (accessed Dec. 7, 2016). It is more likely that the gown originally had wide turned-back oversleeves and velvet undersleeves with puffs along the bottom in the common Tudor style and that these were overpainted to create narrow sleeves with wide velvet cuffs. This is of interest since the style of dress as it currently appears is so similar to the painting of Margaret Tudor, but it is impossible to say which might have been painted first or whether there was any connection between them.  13 Jane Pemberton by Hans Holbein the Younger (ca. 1540; Victoria and Albert Museum, London), reproduced in Buck, Holbein, 124; Portrait of a Lady with a Squirrel and a Starling by Hans Holbein the Younger (ca. 1527–28; National Gallery, London), ibid., 62; Portrait of a Woman with a White Coif by Hans Holbein the Younger (1541; Los Angeles County Museum of Art); and Lady Ingram and Her Two Sons Martin and Steven (1557; Denver Art Museum), reproduced in Denver Art Museum, 600 Years of British Painting: The Berger Collection (Denver: Denver Art Museum, 1998), 45.  14 Margaret herself and other members of the Scottish court also wore hoods in earlier years. Melanie Schuessler, “French Hoods: Development of a Sixteenth-Century Court Fashion,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 5 (2009), 136. Paul, Accounts, 4:29, 210, 219, 221, 223, 225, 228, 230–32. See also Beer, “Translating,” 156.

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French fashion probably also influenced Scotland, both indirectly via trade and diplomacy (as France was Scotland’s ally) and directly via Marie de Guise, James V’s French queen.15 James had spent quite a sum on fabrics, fashions, and accessories for himself and his retinue in France16 the year before their marriage as well as paying the French king’s embroiderer 450 francs for his services.17 Marie de Guise arrived in Scotland in 1538 with her French wardrobe and her French tailor,18 and this would of course have directly influenced fashions at court. She also imported gowns from France in 1548.19 A portrait painted in 1539 shows Marie de Guise in half length (fig. 18). She appears in a gown of figured cloth of gold with a low square neckline bordered with gems and a fabric edging snipped to allow white pullings-out.20 The gown’s wide sleeves are lined with ermine and turned back to the biceps to show matching narrower undersleeves with pullings-out of white. The sleeves of her white smock can be seen emerging from the hems of the undersleeves. Several strands of pearls around her neck and a French hood complete the visible portion of the ensemble. This style of gown was worn in France, England, and the Low Countries. In Scotland, it seems to have been reserved for very formal occasions. In the Accounts, even the gowns of this style for formal occasions were rarely made of cloth of gold, perhaps speaking to the distance between a queen’s wardrobe and that of women one or two rungs down the social scale. Another possibility for the shape of Scottish fashion may be seen in a portrait of 1551 said to be of the Scotswoman Helen Leslie (fig. 19), although it was painted by Willem Key, an artist from the Low Countries.21 She wears a black gown with narrow black velvet trim and short puffed sleeves, a black partlet, narrow undersleeves of crimson (possibly attached to a kirtle worn beneath the gown), a high-necked smock with decorated collar and cuffs (or a low-necked smock and a separate linen partlet with a collar), a girdle of chain, and a cap and head kerchief that resemble those worn in the Low Countries. Several portraits by Catharina van Hemessen, an artist from Antwerp, show ensembles very similar to Helen Leslie’s,22 including one without a partlet,23 one with a round partlet24  15

Marie de Guise was James’s second French queen. His first wife, Madeleine, died soon after arriving in Scotland and so had little time to influence fashion.  16 Paul, Accounts, 6:454, 456–62, 465, and 7:3–8, 12, 14, 17–30, 32–34, 37–39, 41, 44–45, 48–50, 52–60, 63–64. Marshall discusses some of these purchases in “Kingis Grace,” 18–20.  17 Paul, Accounts, 6:457.  18 Marshall, “Hir Rob Ryall,” 3.  19 Ibid., 6.  20 That is, white fabric was pulled through the slashes to create a decorative puffed effect.  21 Although there is no substantiation for the identification of the sitter (and no evidence that Key visited Scotland nor that Helen Leslie visited the Low Countries), this painting seems to have been in the family of Leslie’s husband Mark Ker or Kerr since the sixteenth century and was identified in an inventory of 1798; Koenraad Jonckheere, Willem Key (1516–1568): Portrait of a Humanist Painter (Turnhout, Belgium: Brepols, 2011), 67–68. Thanks to Dr. C. Tico Seifert of the Scottish National Gallery for suggesting this source. A portrait said to be of Mark Ker, likewise attributed to Key and dated 1551, also survives.  22 Self-portrait at the Easel (1548; Kunstmuseum Öffentliche Kunstsammlung, Basel) and Maiden at a Virginal (1548; Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & Fondation Corboud, Cologne, Germany).  23 Portrait of a Woman (1551; National Gallery, London).  24 Portrait of a Lady attributed to Hemessen (1550; private collection), online at http://www.christies.com under Sold Lot no. 6034210 (accessed Oct. 5, 2018). The round partlet was more common in German fashion.



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Fig. 18: Marie de Guise, detail of a portrait by an unknown artist (1539; Hardwick Hall, England). Photo: © National Trust Images.

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Fig. 19: Portrait of a Lady, called Lady Helen Leslie, Wife of Mark Ker, attributed to Willem Key (1551; National Galleries of Scotland, NG 1939, bequest of the Eleventh Marquess of Lothian, 1941). Reproduced by permission.



Women ’s G armen ts 8 5

and one with a partlet like that worn by Margaret Tudor in fig. 17.25 Other portraits from the Low Countries show various elements of the fashions in these portraits, some combined with gowns similar to Marie de Guise’s in fig. 18.26 A similar spirit of combination is represented in the variety of influences shown in the portraits of Margaret Tudor, Marie de Guise, and Helen Leslie, and this eclecticism seems to have been the hallmark of upper-class Scottish women’s fashion at this time.

G OWNS As it was for men, the gown for women was the formal layer worn over the rest of the clothing, and a gown was required for a woman of the upper classes to be fully dressed. The Accounts list several types of gowns, such as ganging (walking) gowns, everyday gowns, and riding gowns, but they are designated by their use rather than by their style. As noted above, gowns probably existed in several styles, including those with wide, turned-back sleeves or narrow sleeves or short puffed sleeves, and those with skirts open from the waist down to show the kirtle or worn closed. All would have had a close-fitting bodice extending to the waist with a full skirt sewn to it and sleeves. A few entries give some details suggesting the style of the gowns. For example, the Regent’s daughter Anne had a white damask gown with separate white velvet sleeves [703]. The velvet sleeves were lined with white taffeta, stuffed with buckram, and “drawn with crisp,” suggesting that they might have been undersleeves like those in a portrait by a painter from the Low Countries but depicting English fashion (fig. 20), worn by many in England and by Marie de Guise (fig. 18), though hers were smaller. Such undersleeves might be stuffed – or stiffened – with buckram to keep their shape. Crisp, which was a fine silk, might be drawn out through the slashes and between the points tied together along the bottom to create puffs. Similarly, Katherine Herries’ velvet wedding gown had wide sleeves, and all of the kirtles ordered to be worn with it also had sleeves, which would have served as undersleeves for the gown [645]. Two of Margaret Douglas’s pairs of undersleeves were drawn forth with three ells of taffeta [91, 99],27 which suggests a fairly large sleeve volume and may indicate that they were worn with a wide-sleeved overgown.

 25

Lady in 16th Century Costume (1548–49; Bowes Museum, Durham, England). Portrait of a Young Lady by an unknown artist of the Flemish School (ca. 1530 [this date is probably too early, given the similarity of the fashion to Catharina van Hemessen’s work, which tends to cluster near 1550]; private collection), online at https://www.lempertz.com/en/catalogues/lot/1029-2/1110flemish-school-circa-1530.html (accessed Dec. 12, 2016); Portrait of a Lady by Willem Key (undated; Museum Rockoxhuis, Antwerp); Portrait of Anne van Weluwe by an unknown artist (1548–50; Bowes Museum, Durham, England); Wife of a Member of the de Hondecoeter Family by an unknown artist (1543; National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.); Portrait of Jacquemyne Buuck by Pieter Pourbus (1551; Groeninge Museum, Bruges, Belgium); Portrait of a Woman by Willem Key (1543; Gemäldegalerie Staatliche Museen, Berlin); and Portrait of a Young Girl attributed to Willem Key (mid-sixteenth century; Worcester Art Museum, Mass.).  27 That is, the taffeta was drawn through slashes in the sleeves to create decorative puffs.  26

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Fig. 20: Portrait of a Woman, by an unknown Netherlandish artist (ca. 1540–50; Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 69.282, gift of Winston F. C. Guest, 1969). Photo: Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Some gowns had sleeves with pullings-out (as opposed to those above worn with undersleeves that had puffs). Jane Herries had two velvet gowns and one of armosene taffeta in her trousseau that were granted four ells of cambric to put in the sleeves [713]. Anne’s elder sister



Women ’s G armen ts 87

Barbara probably also had gowns of the same type, as she received 3½ ells of fine cambric cloth to draw forth the sleeves of her gowns [680]. A style with pullings-out on the gown sleeves is shown in a few English portraits from the early 1540s (fig. 21). A gray damask gown of Anne’s required just half an ell of buckram to bolster the sleeves [817]. This small amount suggests that the gown might have been of the style worn by Helen Leslie (fig. 19) with short, puffed sleeves. The buckram would be used inside the sleeves to help them keep their shape. Gown skirts also varied. The Accounts note extra fabric granted for several gowns because they had a train. Margaret Douglas had one [734], and her daughter Barbara had three [436, 673, and 719].28 All of the others were for trousseaux with one exception: Molly Stewart received one when she accompanied the Regent’s daughter Jean to France as a governess and servant (Jean served as a companion to the young Mary Stewart) [390]. Trains seem to have been reserved for those of the highest rank and for occasions requiring impressive clothing. Gowns were roughly evenly divided between wool and silk, though within each category there was a range of qualities. Among the wools used for women’s gowns, the most expensive was black of the seal of Rouen, which at its priciest (£3 5s) was eight times the price per ell of the cheapest camlet (8s).29 Worsted, Lille worsted, and Scottish russet kept camlet company at the bottom end of the scale (8s to 18s), while Lille black, frieze, French black, Paris black, stemming of Milan, and unpressed black were all fairly comparable in the middle of the wool price range (28s to 44s). Of the seventy-three wool gowns, forty-two (about 58%30) were made of French wool (sixteen Paris black, fourteen French black, six Lille worsted, five seal of Rouen, one Lille black), fifteen (21%) were of camlet, six (8%) of frieze, four (5%) of utterfine, three (4%) of unpressed black, and one each of Scottish russet, stemming of Milan, and worsted. The silks used for eighty-one women’s gowns included slightly less variety, with twenty-five (31%) of velvet (one of figured, or patterned, velvet), twenty-four (30%) of damask (one figured31), sixteen (20%) of satin, eight (10%) of armosene taffeta, four (5%) of taffeta, and one each of cloth of gold, cloth of silver, grosgrain, and unspecified silk. The prices for silks were of course much higher, with taffeta ranging from 30s to 44s per ell, damask from 32s to 45s, satin from 32s to 42s, and grosgrain’s single example at 44s. Velvet was by far the

 28

Although this entry could be interpreted to mean that Barbara’s servant Elspeth was receiving the gown, that is unlikely considering the lower quality of the rest of Elspeth’s wardrobe. The next entry, for a buist, strengthens the case that these items were for Barbara, as only she and her sisters received buists.  29 Camlet is counted as wool for the purposes of this analysis, though camlet could be wool or silk or a blend. The camlet in the Accounts tends to be relatively cheap, which argues for wool, but it is also relatively narrow, which argues for at least some silk content. In one entry, the camlet is specified as being of silk, implying that silk was unusual (“quhyte champlat of sylk” [white camlet of silk] [430]), so it was probably usually either a wool or a blend in this context.  30 Percentages are rounded to the nearest whole numbers.  31 It is unclear what makes this particular damask “figured,” as damask was distinguished by having a pattern, although it was monochromatic. An Italian inventor petitioned for a patent in 1583 for a process by which he could “make appear any kind of figure or flower on any kind of silk or wool cloth, as though these cloths were true damasks”; Luca Molà, The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000), 197. For a sixteenth-century example, see the background of green damask in Holbein’s Ambassadors (see chap. 1, note 15).

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Fig. 21: Portrait of a Young Woman, workshop of Hans Holbein the Younger (ca. 1540–45; Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 49.7.30, Jules Bache Collection, 1949). Photo: Metropolitan Museum of Art.

most expensive, costing from £3 to £8, with the luxurious crimson velvet at twice the price of the nearest contender. Of the 106 gowns with a specified color, sixty-two (58%) were black; sixteen (15%) were tawny; a handful were gray, purple, red or crimson, or white; and there were single examples



Women ’s G armen ts 8 9

of orange and yellow. Of wool gowns with a color given, all were black except for those of camlet, which amounted to four out of forty-four. Of sixty-six silk gowns with a color given, twenty-two (33%) were black; sixteen (24%) tawny; eleven (17%) gray; seven (11%) purple; three (5%) each of crimson, red, and white; and one of yellow. Gowns were often trimmed with bands of another fabric, usually of the same color and almost always velvet. In his poem Satire on the Toun Ladyes, Richard Maitland uses velvet trimming as his main description for women’s gowns, emphasizing how common such decoration was: “Barrit with veluous, sleif, nek and taillis”32 [Trimmed with velvet, sleeve, neck, and hem]. Although in this volume several words are translated as “trim” or “trimmed,” they all probably had distinct meanings when written. Some were more general (e.g., begary [decorate]) and some more specific, possibly indicating various widths or numbers of decorative strips (e.g., barrit [barred], narve, welt, vane). The Accounts include many examples of strips of fabric used as trim, including most commonly black satin or damask or wool gowns with black velvet trim, but also tawny damask with tawny velvet, white damask with white velvet, red taffeta with crimson velvet, purple satin with purple velvet, and gray satin with gray velvet. In only one case in the regency Accounts was a gown trimmed with any fabric other than velvet – a gown of tawny velvet was trimmed with tawny satin in a reversal of the usual practice [436]. Only four gowns had contrasting fabric trim (a yellow armosene taffeta, an orange camlet, a tawny camlet, and a tawny damask), and all were trimmed with black velvet. Two women’s gowns were decorated with passementerie, both for daughters of the Regent [668, 836]. Only a few gowns had fur trimmings. They included one for the Regent’s wife, as might be expected, of tawny velvet edged with spotted ermine [613]. The rest went to the Regent’s daughter Barbara and Barbara’s servants. Early in the regency Accounts, Barbara and her gentlewoman33 each received a gown of black wool with cuffs and borders of ermine [73]; at this time they were with the dowager queen at Stirling. A much later grant specified payment to a furrier for twice lining a gown of hers “pikit about wt pulderinges” [picked about with powderings], probably of ermine [442].34 Of Barbara’s mourning gowns after the death of her first husband, one was furred with miniver, and all three had ermine edging [773, 798, 809]. Barbara’s gentlewoman Elspeth Douglas also received a mourning gown during this period that had furring, though type and placement were not specified [782]. A few months later, Barbara and Elspeth each had yet another gown edged with ermine by the furrier [828, 833]. Many gowns had kirtles made to go with them, and some had more than one, though the Accounts also have plenty of examples of gowns made without kirtles. A few had a skirt [757, 811] or a set of skirt and sleeves [673, 713, 718] rather than a kirtle. Of those that had kirtles, most were combinations of a silk gown and a silk kirtle or a wool gown and a wool kirtle. Very few were mixed combinations. Of those with specified colors, a few gown-and-kirtle  32

Maitland, Quarto, 42. Although in [73] the gentlewoman is not named, in [189] Barbara’s “servant and keeper” is Marian Stewart.  34 “Powdering” referred to white ermine ornamented with black tails or pieces of other black fur; Elspeth M. Veale, The English Fur Trade in the Later Middle Ages (Oxford: Clarendon, 1966), 221. This record may also grant furring of ermine for her wedding gown, but it is not clear.  33

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sets were made of matching fabric [390, below], and a few more were made of different fabrics in the same color [348, below].35 Item to be hir ane other goun and ane kirtill xiiij elnis blak sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxv li iiij s [390]

Item, to be another gown and a kirtle for her, 14 ells of black satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £25 4s.

Item be his graces spetiall commande xj elnis of reid dalmes to be þe eldest of þe airris of heres ane goun þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xx li xviij s

Item, by his grace’s special command, 11 ells of red damask to be the eldest of the heirs of Herries a gown, each ell 38s; total: £20 18s.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vij elnis reid sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiiij li [348]

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 7 ells of red satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £14.

Many others featured contrasting colors, including a tawny satin gown with a blue-purple velvet kirtle [739], a brown camlet gown with a red camlet kirtle [409], and a black taffeta gown ordered with three kirtles of tawny taffeta, blue damask, and red satin [391]. Of the gowns with contrasting kirtles, none had contrasting fabric trim. Several gown orders had extra fabric allowed for matching cloaks, all of Paris black or unpressed black. In three cases these were associated with riding: Molly Stewart, servant to the Regent’s daughter Jean, had a riding gown with a matching cloak [390], and both the Regent’s cousin Lady Lyle and Elizabeth Douglas, servant to the Regent’s daughter Barbara, had gowns with matching riding cloaks [162, 456]. In the case of Elizabeth Douglas, the entry specified that the clothes were given “at hir departing In þe north cuntray wt hir said maistres” [at her departing to the north country with her said mistress] and for Molly Stewart, “at hir departing to france.” Molly’s mistress Jean did not receive a cloak or a riding gown for this journey, suggesting that she would be more protected en route and perhaps not on horseback.36 The Regent’s half-sister Jean Hamilton, Mistress of Kilmaurs, also had a riding gown, though without a cloak [174]. The Accounts also give information about the construction of gowns. Many gowns were allowed ½ to 1¼ ells of canvas for the bodies, suggesting that they were stiffened to create the smooth shape seen in portraits from that time. The average was one ell per gown, which probably indicates at the least a single layer of canvas for the whole bodice (not including sleeves, although in one case canvas was used to line the sleeves as well [104]). An ell would probably have been enough for a double layer in the front of the bodice for most women, which would have assisted with keeping a smooth line. Gowns often had an inner lining as well, usually of gray, black gray, or buckram, though bodies and sleeves were sometimes lined with fustian instead. These linings would not be visible to an observer, so cheap wools  35

This latter category was probably larger than the numbers of gowns and kirtles with specified fabrics suggests, with the majority being black wool gowns with black kirtles made of a different type of wool than the gown. Given the enormous prevalence of black amongst wools whose color was specified, it is very likely that many of the wools whose color was not specified were also black.  36 Because Jean received so few clothes via the Accounts, it is possible that she was getting them from other sources and had a riding gown or cloak from another unknown grant.



Women ’s G armen ts 9 1

and linens were used. Some gowns had a lining of silk or more expensive wool, especially in areas where it might show. The scyes (or edges) and foreskirt (the front edges of the skirt of an open-skirted gown) were the most common candidates for a partial lining of nicer fabric [436 and 613, below], usually in combination with gray or black gray in less-visible areas. Item to be ladye Barbara ane goun syde talit ten elnis fyne tannye welwote price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, to be a gown with a long train for Lady Barbara, 10 ells of fine tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 36s.

Item ane elne of tannye sating to narve þis goun—xlij s

Item, an ell of tawny satin to trim this gown, 42s.

Item v elnis blak gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne at iiij s vj d Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 5 ells of black gray to line the same, each ell at 4s 6d; total: 24s 9d.37

Item tua elnis reid stemmyng to þe sychtis of it—xxviij s

Item, 2 ells of red stemming for the scyes of it, 28s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of þis goun price—ij s iiij d [436]

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of this gown, 2s 4d.

Item secundo Nouembris bocht to be my Ladye gouernour ane govne viij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xxx li

Item, November 2nd, bought to be a gown for my lady governor, 8 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £30.

Item to lyne þe foir skirtis of this govne ane elne half quarter taffiteis of foure thredis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xviij s

Item, to line the foreskirts of this gown, 1⅛ ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 16s; total: 18s.

Item to lyne þis govne and ane kirtill of champit veluet gottin out of my lord governouris wardrop vij elnis lynyng gray price of þe elne v s Summa—xxxv s

Item, to line this gown and a kirtle of patterned velvet gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe, 7 ells of lining gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 35s.

…

…

Item to lyne þe bodyis of þis govne vj quarteris of bukrem price of þe elne v s Summa—vij s vj d [613]

Item, to line the bodies of this gown, 1½ ells of buckram, price of each ell 5s; total: 7s 6d.

Taffeta was sometimes used to line the “tails” or hems of gowns.38 A few entries call for re-lining the tails, which unsurprisingly wore out over time.  37

The total should be 22s 6d. The given total would be correct if the number of ells were 5½ rather than 5. A small lining or facing could reduce wear on a hem. See, for example, the burial gown of Eleonora of Toledo; Arnold, Patterns, 104. Although “tail” could be interpreted as either a hem or a train, in only one case did a gown specified as having a train have a lining for the tails [713].

 38

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The Accounts sometimes indicate the fastenings used for gowns. Most gowns with fastenings listed had clasps, which were probably hooks and eyes.39 One gown, however, had a silk cord to lace it [419]. A contemporary poet also noted laces as garment fastenings in a poem titled “Ane Ballat maid to the Derisioun and Scorne of Wantoun Wemen”: “It settis not madynis als / To latt men lowis thair laice”40 [Also, it does not befit maidens / To let men loose their lace]. Sewing silk was sometimes granted for gowns, though always for gowns made of silk. It was also used in some cases for sewing on borders and trim for both silk and wool gowns. In most entries it was simply called “sewing silk” or just “silk,” but in one case, “Paris silk” was specified [495]. The color of the silk was usually not given for sewing silk, with the exceptions of purple silk bought for a purple taffeta gown and a damask kirtle [104], black silk to sew a variety of items possibly including Margaret Douglas’s tawny velvet gown with ermine [613], and white silk purchased to sew a white damask gown with white velvet trim, hood, and sleeves [703]. In a few other instances, silk was granted as a separate line item, making it unclear whether it was for clothing construction or embroidery, and in those cases the color was sometimes given. The word styk (or steik or stek) was occasionally used in the context of silk thread granted for garments for both men and women and could possibly be translated as either “embroider” or “sew.” Given the scarcity of other evidence of decorative embroidery on secular clothing in the regency Accounts, it seems likely that styk was simply an alternative to “sew.”

NIG H T GOWNS Only six night gowns for women appear in the regency Accounts. As they were for men, night gowns for women in this era were warm robes worn in private settings rather than a garment worn for sleeping.41 In 1539–40, Mary Tudor had several night gowns, including one of black velvet lined with satin, one of black damask trimmed with black velvet and lined with fur, and one with a pound of gold embroidery.42 She also had one of black velvet decorated with gold and silver bobbin lace that had pointing ribbons, presumably to tie it closed.43 Night gowns were unfitted, probably cut without a waist seam, and similar in shape to a style of gown that was worn in public, the loose gown. They were alike enough that the two styles were sometimes confused by those writing Mary’s accounts.44 Only Margaret Douglas and her daughters Barbara and Anne received night gowns. Those for Margaret required eight to ten ells of fabric, whereas those for the girls needed four to five ells. All were of satin, damask, or taffeta, and all but one had fur either at the edges or  39

Egan, Material Culture, 51. An extant gown from 1600, now held in Germany, had hooks and eyes at the center front; Arnold, Patterns, 105–6. The Petre accounts also mention clasps just after other purchases for gowns (ECRO D/DP A11).  40 James Cranstoun, ed., The Poems of Alexander Scott (Edinburgh: William Blackwood and Sons, 1896), 20. Scott’s poetry dates from 1545 to 1568.  41 Alison J. Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” Costume 18 (1984): 18.  42 Ibid., 12.  43 Ibid., 24.  44 Ibid., 18.



Women ’s G armen ts 93

as a lining. The gowns with fur were granted buckram, and in three this was specified as being either to bear the furring or for the borders (presumably to stiffen them). Rabbit and lamb furs were used, sometimes in the same garment, with rabbit in the front and sleeves and lamb in the back [675, below]. Item xxo Januarii deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour to be ane ny t gowne to lady anne four elnis blak daimes price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, January 20th, delivered to the queen’s tailor to be a night gown for Lady Anne, 4 ells of black damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item to walt þis gowne ane qrter and half quarter blak welwet price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxvj s iij d

Item, to trim this gown, ⅜ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 26s 3d.

Item ane elne of bukcrame to lyn þe bordouris of þis gowne price þairof—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line the borders of this gown, price thereof 4s.

Item to Johnne crage furrour for furring of þis gowne and slevis þairof wt cunnyngis and þe bak þairof wt blak lambskynnis—iij li x s [675]

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this gown and sleeves thereof with rabbit, and the back thereof with black lamb skins, £3 10s.

Night gowns with trim assigned were decorated with velvet matching the color of the gown. Given the small amount of velvet granted, the trimming was likely narrow.

K IRTL E S The kirtle was worn under the gown and might or might not be visible, depending on the style of gown worn over it. It had a close-fitting, waist-length bodice with a full skirt sewn to it. The basic style in Scotland was probably similar to those in other places, such as an extant kirtle with a square neckline and a pleated skirt held by the Museo Nationale di Palazzo Reale in Pisa.45 In some situations kirtles were worn without a gown, especially by those lower on the social scale. Christ’s Kirk on the Green, a Scottish poem probably written in the early sixteenth century, tells of girls wearing kirtles made of gray, lightweight Lincoln46 and pressed into many pleats.

 45

Mariagiulia Burresi, L’abito della Granduchessa: Vesti di corte e di madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa (Pisa: Soprintendenza per i Beni AAAS, 2000), 67–70, 84–87.  46 Lincoln was a center of wool yarn production, and certain types of cloth were woven there as well.

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There came owr Kittys washen clean, In new kyrtills of gray … Their kirtles were of Lincome light, Weel prest wi’ mony plaits47

[There came our girls, washed clean, In new kirtles of gray … Their kirtles were of light Lincoln, Well-pressed with many pleats.]

Some kirtles had sleeves, but these were mentioned specifically, implying that kirtles were usually sleeveless [390, 555, and 645 (in which there are four examples in one grant, all for a trousseau)]. Mary Tudor’s records from 1553–54 list a number of warrants for “making up of a french kirtle and a peire of sleves,”48 and Henry VIII’s 1547 inventory included a kirtle “with a paier of Sleves to the same,”49 suggesting that in England the sleeves were sometimes separate items that were perhaps temporarily attached to kirtles in wear. That they were closely related, however, seems clear from the ordering of sections in the inventory, in which lists of kirtles were frequently followed by lists of sleeves.50 Kirtles in Scotland might have served as an attachment point for separate sleeves, of which there were many (see below). The ninety-seven kirtles mentioned in the regency Accounts are roughly evenly divided between wools and silks. Of the wools, nearly 40% were worsteds, with the most common being Lille worsted. Second in popularity were camlets, making up 26% of the total. Utterfines came in third at 15%, but all of them were part of a batch order for mourning gowns, which were a specialty item and not necessarily representative of normal practice [3]. Scattered examples of black, brown, and russet also appear.51 Of the silks, satins were by far the most popular at 43%, followed by velvets (25%), damasks (18%), and armosene taffeta (12%). A single gown of camlet of silk makes up the final 2%. The popularity of kirtle colors conformed for the most part to those of gowns, although the color was not given for almost half of the kirtles in the regency Accounts. Of those with a specified color, black, tawny, red or crimson, and gray were roughly equal in popularity while a handful were purple, violet, white, yellow, blue, blue-purple, and brown. Both wool and silk kirtles might be trimmed, though many were plain. The trimming was always velvet and usually black, though in a few cases it was a color that matched the main fabric of the kirtle. Black velvet trim occasionally contrasted with the color of the kirtle, as in the case of a striking outfit consisting of a black damask gown and a white silk camlet kirtle trimmed in black velvet constructed for one of the Herries sisters [430]. A few kirtles had bodies of a different, cheaper fabric: yellow satin bodies for a yellow velvet kirtle [91], green satin for a cloth of gold kirtle [429], black fustian for a crimson damask kirtle [419], canvas for black satin and purple satin kirtles [734], and Bruges satin for a damask kirtle [394, below]. These were likely worn under a gown with an open skirt, so that the kirtle would be visible only from the waist down.

 47

Callander, Scottish Poems, 105, 107. Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 23–24, 26–27.  49 Hayward, Dress, 165.  50 Starkey, Inventory, 218–19, 250, 387, 402, 420.  51 Although these terms may also reflect the color of the wool, they are used in many places in the Accounts as fabric names, often with an origin attached (Paris black, French brown).  48



Women ’s G armen ts 9 5

Item to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis tannye dalmes price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xj li viij s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 6 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £11 8s.

Item ane half elne birge sating to body þis kirtill price—vj s [394]

Item, ½ ell of Bruges satin to body this kirtle, price 6s.

Red seems to have had particular significance for kirtles in the Accounts. Over 40% of them had red lining in whole or in part, and most notably, many had red lining specifically for the “scyes,” or edges. The distribution was general: the red linings were not concentrated with respect to age, family relationship, status, or color or type of kirtle fabric. A few gowns, none of which were red, also had red lining for the scyes. This practice may be linked to the prevalence of red petticoats in Tudor England,52 the source of which was probably a belief in the health benefits of red fabric, especially when worn close to the body.53 Red fabric was recommended by several medieval authorities to ward off or cure illness. Gilbertus Anglicus wrote in 1290 that cloth dyed in grain could cure smallpox, Bernard Gordon advocated wrapping the entire body in red cloth in 1305, and John of Gaddesden claimed in his book of 1315 to have cured the son of Edward I by wrapping him in red fabric.54 In 1542 Andrew Boorde specifically suggested red clothing in order to maintain one’s health: “Let your nyght cap be of skarlet” and “Furthermore as co[n]cerning your apparrell in wynter nexte your sherte vse to were a peycote of skarlet … In so[m]mer vse to were a skarlet petycote made of stamele or lynsye wolsye”55 [Furthermore, as concerning your apparel, in winter you should wear a scarlet petticoat next to your shirt … In summer, you should wear a scarlet petticoat made of stammel or linsey-woolsey]. Portuguese physician Valescus de Taranta mentioned the curative properties of red or purple cloth in 1418 and proposed that it might “move the blood to the exterior, and may hold it there with a moderate heat.”56 This warming property of red fabric was an important weapon against the cold, which was seen as a cause of disease.57 It was no accident that clothing worn near to the body was most likely to have red linings or edges lined with red. Clothing acted as a “protection, or a sealant”58 and might be especially effective in that role if at least the openings were lined  52

Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies, The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (London: Batsford, 2006), 40; Huggett, “Rural Costume,” 83; Anne Buck, “The Clothes of Thomasine Petre 1555–1559,” Costume 24 (1990): 20.  53 Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies, Tudor Tailor, 40–41.  54 H. E. Handerson, “John of Gaddesden, Variola and the Finsen Light Cure,” Cleveland Medical Journal 3, no. 10 (1904): 437–38. It is possible that it was the properties of the dye kermes that were originally thought to be healthful, as Gilbertus Anglicus wrote in 1290, and that this association gradually widened to red fabric in general as authorities borrowed from one another and the initial concept became diluted in the popular imagination.  55 Andrew Boorde, Hereafter foloweth a compendyous Regyment or a dyetary of Helth, made in Mou[n]tpyllier (London: Robert Wyer for John Gowghe, 1542), chapter 8, n.p. Cited in C. Willett Cunnington and Phyllis Cunnington, Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century (Boston: Plays, 1970), 47, and Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies, Tudor Tailor, 40–41.  56 Handerson, “John of Gaddesdon,” 438.  57 Vincent, Dressing the Elite, 49.  58 Ibid.

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with red. These vulnerable places where the cold or noxious vapors of the air might enter and attack the body could be shored up and sealed against invasion with red’s warm and healthful properties.59 The Accounts also specifically link red garments with health. A red petticoat for the Regent’s daughter Barbara was associated with her recovery from illness [660, below]. Item vij elnis reid vnwatterit chamlett tobe ane patycoit to my lady gordoun eftir sche was convalescit furt of hir seiknes price of þe elne viij s Summa—lvj s [660]

Item, 7 ells of red unwatered camlet to be a petticoat for my Lady Gordon after she was convalesced forth of her sickness, price of each ell 8s.; total: 56s.

Men too showed some inclination towards red linings. In the regency Accounts, a small but significant number of hose and doublets that were not themselves red were lined with red fabric, and Henry VIII also had some garments and accessories that were worn close to the body that tended to be lined with red.60 The large numbers of garments with red linings and the many links between the color red and healthfulness point to a specific cultural practice rather than a general preference. Those kirtles not lined in red, or with red only at the scyes, were typically lined with cheap wool (gray or black gray), but it is not always clear in what part of the kirtle these linings were used. Because linings, thread, and canvas were often listed as a bulk item covering several gowns and kirtles, it is hard to decipher how much was used for each garment. One example, however, specifies seven ells of gray for a particular kirtle, suggesting that the bodice and skirt were both fully lined [419], while another example grants just four ells of French red to line two kirtles, which would not have been enough for two complete linings [734]. The bodies of the kirtles often had a canvas or buckram lining to stiffen them, adding bust support and helping to create the fashionable smooth line of the torso. Kirtles from the early sixteenth century in England were also lined with linen in the bodies,61 and extant Italian bodices are lined with linen.62 A few kirtles had sewing silk allotted for their construction, but as with the gowns, only those made of silk fabric. Fastenings were not included. One line item mentions clasps (probably hooks and eyes), but they are part of a bulk list including linings, sewing silk, buckram, canvas, and “other necessities” for a trousseau including gowns, kirtles, hoods, and partlets, so it is not clear on which garment or garments they were used. A Scottish poem from before 1505, however, gives a possible clue to another type of fastening in the midst of constructing an allegory comparing women’s clothing to their conduct:  59

For medieval and seventeenth-century examples of the theory that noxious vapors caused disease, see Luke E. Demaitre, Medieval Medicine: The Art of Healing, from Head to Toe (Santa Barbara, CA: Praeger, 2013), 63, and Vincent, Dressing the Elite, 50–51.  60 Maria Hayward, “Crimson, Scarlet, Murray and Carnation: Red at the Court of Henry VIII,” Textile History 38, no. 2 (2007): 142.  61 Caroline Johnson, The Queen’s Servants: Gentlewomen’s Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII, ed. Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila (Lightwater, Surrey, UK: Fat Goose, 2011), 19.   62 Two extant Italian kirtles have linen linings, and one is reinforced with linen canvas. Burresi, Granduchessa, 57, 67.



Women ’s G armen ts 97

Her kirtill suld be of clene constance, Lasit with lesum lufe, The mailyeis of continuance For nevir to remufe.63

[Her kirtle should be of clean constancy, Laced with honest love, The eyelets of steadfastness For never to remove.]

This passage suggests that some kirtles were fastened with lacing threaded through metal rings or eyelets bound with thread and reinforced with metal rings. The main definition of “mailyeis” is chainmail, but a secondary sense is “A small metal ring to be fixed to a garment to take a hook, clasp, lace, or other fastening; a metal eyelet.”64 An English purchase of 1511 recorded 300 “laten maylls” [brass mails] to be used on kirtles,65 and eyelets of thread worked over metal rings can be found on extant garments.66

W Y LIECOATS A ND P ET TICOATS The words “wyliecoat” and “petticoat” seem to have been interchangeable at this time.67 One grant for the Regent’s daughter Jean refers to a petticoat and four line items later refers to the same garment as a wyliecoat [844, below].

 63

Item fyve elnis reid vnwatterit champlat to be ane pittecote to my Lady Jene þe elne vj s viij d Summa—xxxiij s iiij d

Item, 5 ells of red unwatered camlet to be a petticoat for my Lady Jean, each ell 6s 8d; total: 33s 4d.

Item quartar and half quartar welwote to bordour þe same price—xxx s

Item, ⅜ ell of velvet to border the same, price 30s.

Item ane quartar of ane vnce silk to steik on þe bordoures—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce of silk to sew on the borders, 2s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of þe same—iij s

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of the same, 3s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furring of þis vylecote wt quhite lambeskynnes—xxx s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this petticoat with white lamb skins, 30s.

Item to Jhone andersoun for making of it—vj s

Item, to John Anderson, for making of it, 6s.

Item v quartaris of quhite fustiane to be slevis to it—viij s iiij d [844]

Item, 1¼ ells of white fustian to be sleeves for it, 8s 4d.

Jacqueline Tasioulas, The Makars: The Poems of Henryson, Dunbar, and Douglas (New York: Canongate, 1999), 221.  64 DSL, s.v. “Mailȝe.”  65 Hayward, Dress, 353.  66 Arnold, Patterns, 16, fig. 87.  67 My thanks to Drea Leed for her consultation regarding wyliecoats.

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Similarly, her sister Barbara was allowed materials for a petticoat and shortly thereafter a wyliecoat of the same description was delivered to her [660, 665].68 These are the only two uses of the word “petticoat” in the regency Accounts, but as there are only sixteen wyliecoats and petticoats spread among seven women, perhaps that is not surprising. Wyliecoats were worn by both men and women in sixteenth-century Scotland, though in the regency Accounts, all of the wyliecoats are for women and girls. For men they are most commonly thought to have been waistcoats.69 For women, evidence suggests that they might have taken several forms. Maitland’s Satire includes a verse indicating that wyliecoats had skirts in some cases. Sumtyme thay will beir vp thair goun To schaw thair wylicot hingand doun And sumtyme bayth thay will vp beir To schaw thair hoisis of blak or broun: And all for newfangilnes of geir.70

[Sometimes they will bear up their gown, To show their petticoat hanging down; And sometimes both they will hold up, To show their hose of black or brown; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.]

Wyliecoats in the Accounts were made from amounts of fabric varying from 11⁄16 to 6 ells, which strongly indicates that there were different styles. It could be that the smaller amounts of fabric were used to make something like a waistcoat, perhaps with sleeves. Or if the fabric was wide enough, even a small amount might suffice for an underskirt without a bodice. The wyliecoats include some with bodies but with enough fabric granted that they clearly had skirts as well. One example had bodies stiffened with canvas and sleeves as well as a skirt [844, above].71 Other examples of petticoats with bodies may be found in wardrobes contemporary with the Accounts: Mary I had red petticoats with upper bodies in 1554,72 as did Thomasine Petre in 1556 and 1559.73 The defining characteristic may have been that wyliecoats were intended to keep the wearer warm. Gavin Douglas’s translation of Virgil’s Aeneid into Scots includes a verse describing the sharp force of winter and how to combat it. In dowbill garmont cled and wily coyt, With mychty drink and metis confortyve, Agane the stern wyntir forto stryve.74

[Clad in lined garments and wyliecoat, With strong drink and comforting food, Against the stern winter for to strive.]

The wyliecoats that required the largest amounts of fabric were all furred with white lamb, as was the petticoat mentioned in the “Kirtles” section above [660], and all of the wyliecoats and petticoats were made of wool. Most of the wyliecoats and petticoats, whether fur-lined

 68

For this reason, all instances of the word “wyliecoat” in the line items have been translated as petticoat. OED, s.v. “petticoat, n.”  70 Maitland, Quarto, 43.  71 Although the skirt is not mentioned, five ells was too much fabric for just a bodice and sleeves.  72 Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 23, 25.  73 Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 20, 28.  74 Virgil, The Aeneid of Virgil Translated into Scottish Verse by Gavin Douglas Bishop of Dunkeld, vol. 1 (Edinburgh: T. Constable, 1839), 379.  69



Women ’s G armen ts 9 9

or not, were recorded between September and February, with three in March and April and one in June, reinforcing the idea that they were designed to retain heat. In addition, all but one was specified as being made from red fabric.75 Red petticoats were extremely common in England as well. All of the petticoats for women and children in the Petre accounts of 1555–59 whose color was recorded were red,76 and somewhat later, seventy-one of the seventy-eight petticoats whose color was given in a group of wills from 1571–77 were either red or russet.77 In a large survey of Elizabethan Essex wills, 1,123 petticoats were mentioned, of which 52% were red and 40% were russet.78 The most famous instance of a Scot in a red petticoat is of course that of Mary Stewart, who by some accounts wore one to her execution in 1587.79 This preference for red suggests that in addition to providing insulation, wyliecoats and petticoats served a protective function similar to red-lined kirtles (see discussion on pp. 00–00). Indeed, one entry grants a piece of red stemming (a type of wool) to be used for both a wyliecoat and the lining of kirtle scyes [419]. The available data from the Accounts and other sources imply that women’s wyliecoats and petticoats were, like kirtles, meant to be worn underneath other clothing but, unlike kirtles, served as insulation rather than being visible or even decorative.80 Although Jean’s wyliecoat above had velvet borders, it was the only one to be decorated, and the white fustian of its sleeves was surely not meant to be seen.81

FRO CK Only a single frock, one for the Regent’s daughter Barbara, appears in the regency Accounts. English men and women both wore frocks during this time period, but the shape of them is not precisely defined.82 In an inventory of Henry VIII’s wardrobe, men’s gowns, frocks, cloaks, and mantles were listed together,83 suggesting that a frock was a type of outerwear, and in her commentary on this inventory, Maria Hayward defines a man’s frock as “a loose

 75

The single exception did not have a specified color. Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 20.  77 It is important to note that russet could refer to the cloth rather than the color. Not all russet cloth was red, but given the extreme prevalence of red petticoats, it seems likely that many of the russet petticoats were red. Hugget, “Rural Costume,” 77, 83.  78 Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies, Tudor Tailor, 40.  79 Charles Dack, The Trial, Execution and Death of Mary Queen of Scots (London: Elliott Stock, 1889), 2.  80 Complicating this distinction, however, is the fact that in England, the word “petticoat” was sometimes used for garments with bodies that were worn alone or for separate skirts (which might also be seen) rather than for garments worn for warmth. Huggett, “Rural Costume,” 79, and Janet Arnold, Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d (Leeds: Maney, 1988), 154–55.  81 Maitland’s Satire does, however, also have a verse describing the decoration of wyliecoats: “Thair wyliecoittis man weill be hewit, / Broudrit richt braid with pasmentis sewit” [Their petticoats must be prettily colored, / Embroidered right broadly, sewn with trimmings]. Maitland, Quarto, 42.  82 King Henry VIII had several, as did some of his pages and grooms (though theirs were perquisites from the Wardrobe of the Robes). Hayward, “Dressed to Rule,” 82, 72.  83 Hayward, Dress, 413–16.  76

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outer garment, similar to a coat.”84 One of Queen Elizabeth I’s inventories lists a garment of Edward VI’s as a “frock or cassock,” implying that the two were similar.85 An Englishman’s will of 1527 mentioned “a jakett called my frocke,” adding jackets to the types of garments that frocks resembled.86 Women’s frocks were rarer, but Hayward’s surveys of women’s wills from the late fifteenth to mid-sixteenth centuries reveal a few frocks, all of wool,87 and Cicelie Asheley’s will of 1563 bequeathed “a frocke of right wolstyd and my best cloth frocke” to Anne Breerton.88 Although jackets and coats were generally knee-length or shorter, one reference to a frock in a sixteenth-century Scottish poem reveals that frocks could be longer: “To giff a doublett he is als doure / As it war off an futt syd frog”89 [To give a doublet he is just as dour / As if it were a floor-length frock]. Henry VIII’s frocks came in several colors and were decorated in a number of ways.90 Barbara’s frock was furred, made of wool, and trimmed with velvet. Interestingly, it also required four ells of ribbon, though whether for decoration or fastening is unknown [635, below].

 84

Item xijo februarii coft tobe ane froig to my lady gordoune xj quarteris spanȝe freis price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—vj li xij [d]

Item, February 12th, bought to be a frock for my Lady Gordon, 2¾ ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell 44s; total: £6 12d.

Item half ane elne blak veluet to watt þis froig price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa— xxxvij s

Item, ½ ell of black velvet to trim this frock, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 37s.

Item foure elnis lynyng gray to it price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of lining gray for it, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item to Johnne Craig furrour for furring of þis froig wt cunyng skynnys—xl s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this frock with rabbit skins, 40s.

Item foure elnis florence rubanis to þis froig price of þe elne xij d Summa—iiij s

Item, 4 ells of Florence ribbons for this frock, price of each ell 12d; total: 4s.

Item to Johnne Andersoun for making of it—xviij s [635]

Item, to John Anderson for making of it, 18s.

Ibid., 104. Arnold, Wardrobe, 252.  86 George John Piccope, Lancashire and Cheshire Wills and Inventories from the Ecclesiastical Court, Chester, vol. 1 (Manchester: Charles Simms, 1857), 6.  87 Maria Hayward, Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII’s England (Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2009), 239, 245.  88 Piccope, Wills, 135–36.  89 Dunbar, Poems, 110. These lines are from a poem titled “Of James Doig, Keeper of the Quenis Wardrop.” The queen in question was most likely Margaret Tudor, placing the poem in the early part of the century.  90 Hayward, “Dressed to Rule,” 82, 84.  85



Women ’s G armen ts 10 1

As a comparison to assist in estimating how large a garment Barbara’s frock was, five years earlier, when she would have been about thirteen years old, she received nearly the same amount of Spanish frieze to be a gown. Although she would certainly have grown in those five years, her frock was probably either longer or wider (or both) than, for example, a close-fitting jacket. It required 2¾ ells of frieze, which was only ¼ ell more than was needed for a cloak for her father [293] or a coat for her cousin [379]. Frieze was infrequently used for women’s garments in the Accounts, but it was often used for coats and cloaks for men, which may give a clue as to the purpose of Barbara’s frock. The furring and the fact that it was made of frieze suggest that it was intended to be worn for warmth.91

D OUBL ETS Lady Margaret Douglas was the recipient of the only two doublets granted to women in the regency Accounts [784, below]. Both were accompanied by skirts. The first doublet was black velvet with a matching black velvet skirt, and the other was made of an unspecified fabric but was apparently meant to be paired with a skirt of figured velvet. Given the fine materials of these, they were probably visible rather than being a support layer underneath other clothing as they generally were for men. Although this style of outfit would become popular in less than a decade,92 in 1553 it was less common. Few details about the construction of the doublets appear in the line items. Both were lined with fustian, and one had eighteen buttons, but there is no hint of the stiffening or underlining that would normally be present in a man’s doublet. It is possible that these materials were present but folded in to the Accounts elsewhere.

 91

Hugget (“Rural Costume,” 81) also notes frieze as a fabric for outerwear in her survey of rural Elizabethan wills.  92 See, for example, Mary Stewart’s inventory of 1561, which lists several sets of matching skirts and doublets, all of silk camlet, velvet, or satin; Joseph Robertson, ed., Inuentaires de la Royne Descosse Douairiere de France: Cataloges of the Jewels, Dresses, Furniture, Books, and Paintings of Mary Queen of Scots 1556–1569 (Edinburgh: Bannatyne Club, 1863), 27. Also see Philip Stubbes’ magnificent rant regarding women in doublets later in the century; Anatomie, 73–74.

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Item x quarteris fustiane to lyne ane doublat of blak welwote to my ladye þe welwote furnist in the last compte þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xj s iij d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to line a doublet of black velvet for my Lady, the velvet furnished in the last account, each ell 4s 6d.; total: 11s 3d.

Item ane elne of bukrum to lyne ane skyrt of blak welwote to my ladye—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line a skirt of black velvet for my Lady, 4s.

Item iij elnis and ane half gray fustiane to lyne ane doublat to hir and ane skyrt of fygurat welwote þe welwote gottin furthe of my lorde gouernoures gardrap þe elne v s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of gray fustian to line a doublet for her, and a skirt of figured velvet, the velvet gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, each ell 5s.; total: 17s 6d.

Item ane dosoun and ane half buttonis to þis doublat price—iij s [784]

Item, 18 buttons for this doublet, price 3s.

CLOA K S A ND PE S Cloaks and pes for women were apparently roughly equivalent in mid-sixteenth-century Scotland. One garment is described in a series of line items as “a cloak” and “this pe” [555], while another is called both “a riding pe” and “this cloak” [613]. The shape of pes and cloaks seems to have been variable, however. An open letter written by a Reformation scholar in which he describes Catholic vestments and tonsure compares the pe to a coat of armor: “Where are ye cōmanded to dissagyse your selues lyke players or fooles with shauē crownes, long wide sarkes aboue your clothing, and shorte peies lyke cotes of Armoure aboue all[?]”93 [Where are you commanded to disguise yourselves like actors or fools with shaven crowns, long wide shirts above your clothing, and short pes like coats of armor above all?] The chasuble was the item worn “above all,” or over the other vestments by priests when saying Mass.94 This suggests that at least some pes were comparable to a chasuble or coat of armor, both of which were shaped roughly like tabards: pulled on over the head, hanging down in front and back, and open on the sides.95 However, a Scottish sermon from 1635 describes as a “soldier’s pie” the garment that was put mockingly on Christ at his crucifixion (this garment is translated as “robe” in  93

David Fergusson, Ane answer to ane epistle written by Renat Benedict the Frenche doctor, profesor of Gods worde (as the translator of this epistle calleth him) to Iohn Knox … (1563; Ann Arbor, MI: Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership, 2003–07), second section, page 15b, http://name.umdl.umich. edu/A00685.0001.001.  94 Janet Mayo, A History of Ecclesiastical Dress (New York: Holmes and Meier, 1984), 63.  95 Other styles of coat armor existed, but the herald’s tabard seems most relevant here, given its rough similarity to a chasuble. See numerous examples of extant sixteenth-century chasubles in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. A sixteenth-century English herald in a coat of armor can be seen in The Field of the Cloth of Gold between two men in red gowns carrying ceremonial maces and just above the two white dogs near the center of the procession.



Women ’s G armen ts 103

Tyndale’s translation of the New Testament from 153496). Both of these references were to pes for men, which may have been a different shape from that of women’s pes. Women’s cloaks and pes in the Accounts required on average between three and four ells, and two of them had sleeves [186, 266]. The vast majority were made of various qualities of black wool, some trimmed with black velvet, though there were two of scarlet trimmed with crimson velvet [23, 555] and two of silk [675, 843]. The silk cloaks both contained fur, and one was trimmed with gray velvet while the other sported silk passementerie. Over a third of the women’s pes and cloaks were associated with riding. Whether this was riding for pleasure or for travel is unknown in most cases, though certainly some of the recipients did travel during this time period. The Regent’s daughters in particular made several journeys, and horseback was the most sensible option for traveling on land. Barbara received a riding gown with sleeves, also referred to as “the said riding cloak,” for her journey to the north with the Earl of Huntly (her future father-in-law) [186] and another when she traveled to the dowager queen’s court to become a maiden of Marie de Guise’s chamber [394]. Her servant Elizabeth received a riding cloak for another, later journey “to the northland” [456], and Molly Stewart was given a riding gown and cloak in order to accompany the Regent’s daughter Jean to France [390]. A few cloaks and pes are made with matching skirts, though curiously the total amount of fabric required does not differ much from a cloak or pe made on its own, raising questions regarding the size and shape of these paired garments [757, 785, 789, and 813].

SK IRTS A ND SL E E VE S In addition to skirts made to match doublets and cloaks, the Accounts contain a few solitary skirts and several sets of matching skirts and sleeves as well as many separate pairs of sleeves. Skirts as a separate garment do not appear in the Accounts until 1551, and a few references to a “skirt of a kirtle” may betray a transitional mindset on the part of clerks adjusting to the idea of a skirt as a standalone item rather than as the bottom portion of a kirtle. Although these references could have been describing part of a kirtle with a bodice of a different fabric, no bodice fabric was granted for them, and all were later referred to as “this skirt” or “these skirts” [645, 691]. The handful of skirts not associated with another garment (such as a doublet or a pair of sleeves) were made of various fabrics and colors, in both silk and wool. The word “skirt” was not typically used to describe a separate garment in England during this period. Skirt-and-sleeves sets could have been worn under gowns with open skirts in the same way as kirtles.97 The majority of these sets were made of satin in various colors and required two to three ells of fabric, indicating that the sleeves were relatively narrow. Since the satins were probably approximately 22 to 25 inches wide,98 it may be that only the fronts of these  96

David Daniell, ed. Tyndale’s New Testament (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1995), 59. If a kirtle was worn, the sleeves would have been attached to it, but in the case of a skirt-and-sleeves set, the sleeves were probably tacked into the armscyes of the gown.  98 Molà, Silk Industry, 145–46.  97

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skirts were satin. Some were lined with fustian or buckram, and two sets for the Regent’s wife Margaret Douglas were decoratively slashed. Most of the separate pairs of sleeves were of satin or velvet, and they came in a number of colors. They required ¾ to 2 ells of fabric per pair, which suggests that they were made in a variety of styles.99 Two gowns were made with two pairs of sleeves, both of which matched the gown fabric, so they most likely were of different shapes [673, 713]. One pair of sleeves was made from the same velvet used to trim the kirtle with which they were probably worn [488]. A few pairs of sleeves were made of fustian or Holland cloth. The fustian sleeves were made from 1¼ ells [844], but the grants of Holland cloth included other items such as collars, so it is not clear how much fabric went into the Holland sleeves [752, 842].

S A FE GUA R D S Called a wardegard or wairdegairt in the Accounts, a safeguard was worn while riding to protect the lower garments.100 In other records it was often paired with a cloak to protect the upper garments.101 Made of cheap buckram or fustian, safeguards in the Accounts required two to three ells of fabric. A few had gray, a cheap wool, granted for them, and in two cases it was specified that the gray was to “stuff ” them [837, below]. These same safeguards also included a piece of leather from Bordeaux, though for what purpose is unknown. Item vj elnis bukrame to be tua wardegardes ane to hir and ane other to Effame hir kepar, þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to be two safeguards, one for her and another for Euphemie, her keeper, each ell 4s.; total: 24s.

Item tua elnis gray to stuf þe wardegardes þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to stuff the safeguards, each ell 4s 6d.; total: 9s.

Item ane burdeous skyn to þe said wardegardes—vj s viij d

Item, a Bordeaux skin for the said safeguards, 20s.

Item for making of þe tua wardegardes— xx s [837]

Item, for making of the two safeguards, 20s.

Interestingly, several of them were simply purchased as if ready-made rather than having fabric granted for them. These were far more expensive than the cost of materials and labor combined for the others.102 They included all of the safeguards for Margaret Douglas and  99

Mary Tudor and Thomasine Petre also had separate sleeves of varying styles. Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 12, and Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 20. 100 Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 17. DSL (s.v. “Wardegard”) defines “wardegard” as “A receptacle for clothes, appar. chiefly or only of cloth,” and Jamieson’s dictionary defines “vardingard” as “fardingale”; John Jamieson, Dictionary of the Scottish Language, ed. John Longmuir (Edinburgh: William P. Nimmo, 1867), s.v. “vardingard.” However, neither gives any justification for its definition. 101 Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 17. 102 Although only two safeguards had labor costs associated with them, it was not usually labor that was the major expense in clothing construction. Rather, it is likely that it was the materials that caused the



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Barbara as well as the single one granted to one of the Regent’s nieces. Other recipients included his daughter Anne and her servant Euphemie.

PA RTLETS A ND GORGETS Partlets, small garments covering the upper chest and shoulders that were usually worn over gowns (see figs. 17 and 19), were very common in the Accounts. Because unspecified numbers of them were often ordered in groups, it is hard to know the total or how many were given to each individual. They were distributed among many ladies of the higher classes and extended as far as their gentlewomen and maidens of the chamber (who were also drawn from the upper classes). This concentration in the upper end of the social spectrum is reflected in the fineness of the fabrics, which were all velvets and satins except for a single example of wool (made for one of the Regent’s half-sisters of the same fabric as its accompanying gown) [811]. Colors were similarly constrained, as every partlet whose color was given was black aside from one that was tawny (which also matched the gown with which it was listed) [613]. The lack of variety implies a strongly conventional appearance for partlets. The small size of partlets meant that the fabric for them was usually incorporated into a larger grant for several types of items. Because they were generally made of black velvet or satin, they tended to be grouped with parts of hoods and borders for gowns and kirtles. However, two line items for single partlets reveal that one partlet required ½ to ⅝ ell of velvet [54, 613]. Satin partlets were sometimes lined with taffeta or buckram and velvet partlets with taffeta, buckram, or satin. Notions103 were usually not indicated, but one entry mentioned clasps (hooks and eyes) [638] and another sewing silk [811]. Gorgets, with a name derived from the French word for throat and identical to the name of a piece of armor covering the neck and surrounding areas, were certainly worn at or near the same place as partlets. However, their exact shape and size is mysterious. They were distinct from partlets, as the two were listed together [613], but very few appear in the Accounts and none as separate items, so it is impossible to determine how much fabric they required. They were exclusively made of black satin, but the sample size is so small that this may be coincidental.

UNDERGA RME NTS Smocks The Scots word for this bottommost layer of undergarments for women – sark – was the same as for men.104 Women’s smocks provided a washable layer between the body and the other layers of clothing, so they tended to have long sleeves and reached at least the knee. price differential between the purchased safeguards and the made ones. Notions (fastenings, pins, tapes, thread, etc.) are known in British English as haberdashery. 104 Later terms include “shift” or the French word chemise. 103

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Fig. 22: Wooden carved head from Stirling Castle depicting a woman in a smock (ca. 1535–40; Historic Environment Scotland, no. 000-000-025-067-R). Photo: © Crown Copyright: HES.

Smocks probably came in different styles during this period, with variations in the fullness of body and sleeves as well as the style of the neckline. One of the Stirling Heads, which were produced in the early 1540s, shows a woman105 wearing a full smock gathered into a high neck with a center front slit that is closed with a tie (fig. 22). A similar style appears in a portrait of 1533.106 Gowns such as that worn by Marie de Guise (fig. 18), however, would 105

Although the display at Stirling Castle identifies this roundel as James IV, it seems fairly clearly to be a woman. She has long hair loosely gathered back, and breasts. The conservation report also refers to this figure as female. Historic Scotland Conservation Centre, “The Stirling Heads: Conservation Report STC005,” Stirling Castle Palace Archaeological and Historical Research 2004–2008 (Edinburgh: Historic Scotland, n.d.). 106 Circle of Bartholomäus Bruyn the Elder, Portrait of a Lady of the Chaulnes Family, Half-length, in a Black Dress and White Bonnet, Holding a Carnation (1533; private collection), online under artist and title at



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have required a smock with a low square neckline. An extant piece of this type, ca. 1560–80, survives in the collection of the Manchester City Galleries and is narrower in both body and sleeves than the style shown in fig. 22.107 Smocks were invariably made of white linen,108 though the quality differed greatly depending on the recipient. The cheapest was given to Molly Stewart, Jean’s servant when she went to France as a companion to Mary Stewart [390], and, surprisingly, to Jean herself four years earlier when she was sent to the Abbey of Haddington [84]. These were 20d (or 1s 8d) per ell. The most expensive, at 10s per ell, went to Barbara as part of her trousseau [429]. While much of the fabric was simply listed as “linen,” a few pieces of Bretagne cloth and Holland cloth give clues as to the origin of the linen for some smocks. The same types of fabric were used for handkerchiefs, neckerchiefs, sheets, and “other necessities” for women. Like partlet fabric, smock fabric was granted in large quantities specified as being for multiple items. Unlike partlets, no examples of a single smock appear in the regency Accounts. The smallest amount of fabric granted for smocks was six ells, so a single smock may have required two or three ells depending on the size of the wearer or the style of the smock.109 The largest was thirty ells, but that was intended to furnish sheets as well.110 The most common amounts ranged from twelve to sixteen ells. Few individuals were granted fabric for smocks: the Regent’s wife, daughters, wards (the heirs of Herries), and two servants of his daughters make up the whole list.

Buists This rather obscure item was granted only a few times [675 and 719, below, and possibly 838]. An anonymous sixteenth-century Scottish poem mentions buists – “To mak thame small thair weist is bound / A buist to mak thair bellie round”111 [To make them small, their waist is bound / A buist to make their belly round] – making it clear that a buist was some sort of pad to fill out the figure.112 Item deliuerit to hir seruand tway bwistis for hir breist price of þe peice iij s Summa—vj s [675]

Item, delivered to her servant two buists for her breast, price of each piece 3s.; total: 6s.

Item ane boist for hir breist price—iij s [719]

Item, a buist for her breast, price 3s.

http://www.artnet.com (accessed July 23, 2017). Though the artist is German, the style of dress in the portrait resembles that of the Low Countries. 107 Arnold, Shirts, Smocks, 58, 114–15. 108 Henryson uses this symbolically: “Hir sark suld be hir body nixt, / Of chestetie so quhyt” [Her smock should be next to her skin, / Of chastity so white]. Tasioulas, Makars, 221. 109 According to Caroline Johnson’s archival research, a smock for a grown woman in early-sixteenth-century England required two ells. Queen’s Servants, 20. 110 Bess of Hardwick made a single purchase of 24 ells of fabric for smocks (listed in her accounts that range from 1548 to 1550). Levey, “References,” 20. 111 Maitland, Quarto, 239. 112 The poem, whose date could be as late as the 1580s, could be referring to the French farthingale, a stuffed tube worn around the hips that did indeed “make the belly round.”

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The examples in the Accounts, however, seem largely intended to be worn at the chest, leading to the hypothesis that the recipients felt that their endowments needed enhancement.

Pair of Bodies The phrase “pair of bodies” had more than one meaning in the sixteenth century. It could refer to the bodice of a gown or kirtle or to a stiffened, supportive undergarment that in later centuries was called a corset. This type of undergarment became popular at some point during the mid- to late sixteenth century, but because of the alternate meaning of “pair of bodies,” exactly when is unclear. The Accounts include Jane Herries’ wedding gown from 1552, which had two pairs of bodies, apparently made of the same black velvet as the gown [713]. Since the bodice of the gown was generally sewn to the skirt, a gown with two pairs of bodies was unusual. The second might have been intended as a supportive underlayer or for insulation. This would correspond to the red velvet pair of bodies found under the kirtle in which Eleonora di Toledo was buried in 1562.113 Like other such garments in her wardrobe, this pair of bodies seems to have had no stiffening and may have been worn for warmth. Another reference in the Accounts, from 1553, lists half an ell of canvas to be false bodies to a gown [817]. It is possible that this was an inner layer meant to shape the torso. Barbara received the only pair of bodies in the regency Accounts not associated with a garment in 1550, but unfortunately no detail is given as to its materials or construction [611]. Mary Tudor’s warrants of April 1554 also include a stand-alone pair of bodies of crimson satin, but again there is no evidence of what its function might be.114

Vasquine One reference to a vasquine of white damask trimmed with black velvet for the Regent’s youngest daughter Anne appears in 1553 [842]. According to a late-sixteenth-century French-English dictionary, a vasquine could be a kirtle, petticoat, or farthingale.115 Several appear in the later Accounts but none in the earlier ones. It seems, however, that farthingales had made their way to Scotland by this date, as a poem by William Dunbar dated to the reign of James IV mentions them.116 James’s wife Margaret Tudor, the sister of Henry VIII, could have brought them from England, where they had appeared at the beginning of the

113

Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli, Moda a Firenze 1540–1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza (Florence: Pagliai Polistampa, 2005), 131–32. Landini and Niccoli translate the names of these garments from Italian into English as “stays” and “petticoat.” 114 Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 23. 115 Cotgrave, Dictionarie, s.v. “Vasquine.” At this period, a farthingale was a cone-shaped underskirt stiffened with reed or whalebone. 116 James Paterson, The Life and Poems of William Dunbar (Edinburgh: William P. Nimmo, 1860), 295. For the dating of the poem, see pp. 296–97. More recent scholars have also attributed this poem to Dunbar, who died in 1530: G. David Beebe, “William Dunbar: An Analysis of His Poetic Development” (M.A. thesis, Portland State University, 1976), 26ff.



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century courtesy of Katharine of Aragon.117 The fact that an unusual name was used for this item strengthens the case for it being a farthingale rather than a petticoat or kirtle.

HO SE Hose for women fitted closely to the lower legs and feet and extended high enough to be gartered just below the knee. All of the women’s hose in the regency Accounts were cut and sewn of wool, probably in a similar manner as men’s shanks, or legs of hose (see pp. 57–8). The same types of wool used for men’s legs of hose were also popular for women’s hose: stemming, utterfine, and black make up the majority. The quality varied widely, with prices ranging from 15s to 45s per ell, with the upper end of the range furnishing hose for trousseaux and occasionally for Barbara. Most grants of fabric were in the amount of one or two ells, although in a few cases hose were made of the same cloth as petticoats or cloaks and were therefore folded in with larger amounts of cloth. Only black and red are mentioned with reference to hose, and those infrequently. Only Anne had red hose, and all of her hose were red. How much fabric was needed to make a pair of hose is difficult to discern, though the Accounts give a few clues. Jean received one ell to make four pairs of hose when she was about thirteen years old [387]. The smallest amount of fabric granted for hose was half an ell, which, depending on the size of the person and the width of the cloth, probably provided one to two pairs. Construction details were not given, though in one case the making of several pairs of hose from three ells of fabric cost 4s. All of the hose are represented by grants of fabric, implying that none were ready-made. Given the close fitting required for cut-and-sewn hose, it is not surprising that they were routinely custom-made.

FO OT WE A R Only Margaret Douglas, her daughters, and Katherine Herries received shoes and pantonis in the regency Accounts. Shoes at this time might have had a square or a rounded toe and came in several styles.118 Pantonis, called pantobles in England, might have been either slippers or cork-soled overshoes.119 Maitland’s Satire refers to women wearing to church “Thair schone of velwot, and thair muillis”120 [Their shoes of velvet, and their mules], which could refer to shoes worn with overshoes.

117

A narrative of her arrival in England to wed Arthur, Prince of Wales, includes a description of “certayn rownde hopys beryng owte ther gownes from ther bodies aftir their countray maner.” Gordon Kipling, ed., The Receyt of the Ladie Kateryne (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1990), 43. 118 See Volken, Archaeological Footwear, figs. 236, 239, 248, for examples. 119 For a discussion of pantonis, see pp. 70–1. 120 Maitland, Quarto, 43.

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Details about shoes in the Accounts are sometimes obscured by the tendency of shoemakers to send a single bill for multiple items, but several individual line items help to fill in the picture. Grants for shoes and pantonis were most commonly of velvet, and from the price, it was of a similar quality to the velvet used for garments. Indeed, Margaret Douglas received a single piece of velvet to be sleeves, shoes, and pantonis [822]. Most grants of velvet for shoes were for half an ell, but it is not clear how many pairs of shoes would be made from this amount of fabric. Three-quarters of an ell sufficed for both shoes and pantonis. Velvet shoes were popular in England as well: Mary Tudor had them made dozens at a time,121 and Amy Dudley also had a number of them.122 A few shoes were of cloth (i.e., wool) or leather [816, below],123 and some with only a price given were clearly of some material less expensive than velvet. Cloth shoes only required a quarter of an ell, probably because wool was wider than velvet. The only color given for women’s shoes was black, regardless of material. Item ane quartar of blak claith to be schone to hir price—x s

Item, ¼ ell of black cloth to be shoes for her, price 10s.

Item to Inglische williame for making of tua pair of clayth schone And tua pair of schone of fresit ledder—xvj s [816]

Item, to English William for making of two pairs of cloth shoes, and two pairs of shoes of friezed leather, 16s.

Only one pair of specialty shoes was granted to a woman. Margaret Douglas received a pair of riding shoes, which may have been ready-made, as they were simply listed with a price rather than as a grant of materials. They were far less expensive than a pair of velvet shoes, and it seems likely that for riding shoes leather would be more appropriate in any case.

HE A DWE A R Hoods Quite a few hoods were distributed in the Accounts. They were given to a wide variety of ladies at the upper end of the social spectrum, and hoods were an important marker of social status for this group.124 Maitland’s Satire decries the tendency of burgesses’ wives to dress like the nobility by exclaiming “Betwene thame, and nobillis of bluid / Na difference bot ane veluous huid”125 [Between them, and nobles of blood / No difference but a velvet hood], emphasizing that though the bourgeoisie might copy the clothing of their social superiors, hoods were reserved for those of the noble class. In France, England, and the Low Countries, 121

Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 25, 28. Adams, Household Accounts, 175. 123 Friezed leather might have been a form of suede or treated in some way so as to roughen the surface, as “friezing” was raising the nap on fabric. OED, s.v. “frieze, v.1.” 124 Schuessler, “French Hoods,” 138–39. 125 Maitland, Quarto, 45. 122



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hoods were popular with everyone from royalty to ladies in waiting and maidens of the chamber and are well-attested in wardrobe accounts and other records from this period.126 Although the Accounts do not specify the style of the hoods granted, it is most likely that they were French hoods at this period. Given her background, it is not surprising that Marie de Guise wore French hoods (fig. 18), but it is likely that her influence and the close ties between Scotland and France helped to disseminate the style in Scotland. English hoods, often called gable hoods by modern historians, were generally referred to as bonnets in the sixteenth century, but the regency Accounts do not include any bonnets for women. One of the Stirling Heads shows a woman wearing a French hood, though the artist’s attempt at perspective creates a somewhat awkward representation (fig. 23). The rounded front and flat fall in the back are clear, however.127 Two other Heads depict women in hoods with squarer fronts that may be English bonnets, one with a very long and old-fashioned fall folded up on her head,128 so it is possible that this style was worn in Scotland but was no longer fashionable by the beginning of the regency. It may also be that some of the hoods in the Accounts were English bonnets, but that the clerks made no distinction between different styles and simply called them all “hoods.” A single entry for an “English garnishing” for a hood in 1543 may support this theory [42]. When the word “hood” was used in the Accounts, it usually meant just the portion of the hood covering the back of the head, including the fall, though one entry specified fabric for “tails of hoods” [785]. Hoods for adults were black velvet in every case where the color and fabric was specified. Although most velvet for hoods was part of a larger piece also intended to provide for partlets and/or trim, a few examples show that approximately 1¼ ells were needed for a hood for an adult. Hoods were commonly lined with black satin, taffeta, or occasionally buckram, and sewing silk was sometimes provided. A few specific types of hoods in the Accounts bear mentioning. One “Scottish” hood was given, and the only clue to the difference between it and the other hoods is that it only required half an ell of velvet. Barbara received a mourning hood, which seems to have been, like other mourning clothes, a traditional item not necessarily in line with current fashion. In a few cases, “furnished” hoods were provided. These seem to have required the same amount of fabric as other hoods, but it is possible that a furnished hood was one that had a matching crescent (or cornet; see below) of black velvet and was therefore furnished with all it would need in order to be worn.129 126

See for example Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 22; Levey, “References,” 22; Gurney, “Extracts,” 509, 556; St. Clare Byrne, Lisle Letters, 4:163–64; John Nichols, Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London (London: Camden Society, 1852), 43; Raphael Holinshed et al., The third volume of chronicles, beginning at duke William the Norman … (London: [Henry Denham], 1587), 950; and Nicholas Udall, Ralph Roister Doister, in Five Pre-Shakespearean Comedies, ed. Frederick S. Boas (London: Oxford University Press, 1934), 146. 127 For extensive information on this piece and the restoration work done on it, see Historic Scotland Conservation Centre, “The Stirling Heads: Conservation Report STC016,” Stirling Castle Palace Archaeological and Historical Research 2004–2008 (Edinburgh: Historic Scotland, n.d.). 128 Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, Stirling Heads, plates 17, 28. 129 DSL, s.v. “Furnist.” It is worth noting that there are also a few cases of hoods provided with matching cornets that are not referred to as furnished hoods.

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Fig. 23: Wooden carved head from Stirling Castle depicting a woman in a French hood (ca. 1535–40; Historic Environment Scotland, no. 000-000-025-057-R). Photo: © Crown Copyright: HES.

Although hoods for adults in the Accounts were all of black velvet – and portraiture of the time shows hoods that are almost without exception black – the Regent’s youngest daughter Anne received fabric of many colors for hoods, and several were satin instead of velvet. Her hoods also required far less fabric than usual: ⅜ ell for a single hood or one ell for a hood and a pair of sleeves. This raises the possibility that Anne favored the bag-style hood worn by some younger ladies in the French court, such as that worn by Mary Stewart in a drawing of ca. 1549 (fig. 24).130 This style tended to be made in brighter colors and sometimes matched part or all of the accompanying outfit. Some of Anne’s hoods were “cut See also Jean Clouet’s Charlotte of France (c. 1522; Minneapolis Institute of Art); Jan Gossaert’s A

130

Young Princess (ca. 1530–32; National Gallery, London), whose hood and sleeves match; and Jean Clouet’s Madeleine of France (ca. 1522; Weiss Gallery, London).



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Fig. 24: Mary Stewart, by François Clouet (ca. 1549; Yale University Art Gallery, no. 2009.46.1). Photo: Yale University Art Gallery.

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out” (pinked or slashed) by the tailor, which also makes more sense for bag-style hoods than conventional ones. Anne’s hoods also provide some tantalizing construction details, as the grants for several of them included wire and ribbon to cover it. The wire was probably used to stiffen the edges of the front crescent.131 Covering it with ribbon would soften the hard edge and make the wire easier to sew to the rest of the structure. Unfortunately, there is no indication of whether the ribbon was wrapped spiral-fashion around the wire, folded lengthwise over the wire, or applied in some other way. Anne’s hoods also tended to have a buckram lining as well as a taffeta one, and in one case, the hood was described as being stuffed with buckram [703].

Bongraces, Cornets, and Crepes for Hoods The Accounts contain many references to accessories worn with hoods such as bongraces, cornets, and crepes. Although it is difficult to be certain exactly what these terms denote, it is likely that a cornet in this context was the crescent commonly worn at the front of a French hood, a bongrace was an extra layer that might be worn over the front, possibly to shade the eyes, and a crepe was the narrow pleated edge worn just under the very front of the whole assemblage.132 Very few bongraces appear in the regency Accounts. They are of satin or velvet, and like many other small items, fabric for them was purchased in concert with that for other items. It could be that because they required so little fabric, they might have been made more often than the Accounts suggest as part of the frequently appended “and other necessities” at the end of many line items recording the purchase of velvet and satin. Cornets, however, are relatively numerous. They were sometimes made of black velvet matching the hood but more usually of the same black satin used to line hoods and make partlets. Occasionally they were specified as being made of velvet and lined with satin.133 Every cornet with a color given was black. Even Anne’s single grant for cornets was a length of black velvet. Cornets may have been the crescent-shaped part worn at the front of the hood, but existing records give conflicting information, and it is quite possible that the meaning of the word changed over time as well as from region to region.134 Englishwomen wore cornets as well: Lady Lestrange received two cornets of velvet with her French hood in 1540,135 and Thomasine Petre received fabric billiments (another name used for the crescent),136 a cornet, and a bongrace in the same purchase in 1559, so clearly those items were seen as distinct in some way by the writer.137 Anne of Cleves had a black velvet cornet and one of lawn: “on her head she had a cap as she ware on the saturdai before with a cornet of laune, which cap was so ryche of Perle and Stone, that it was iudged to be of 131

133 134 135 136 137 132

A possible extant example of a crescent wire was found in London. Egan, Material Culture, 52. Schuessler, “French Hoods,” 145–47. This does not necessarily indicate that those made of only satin or velvet were not lined, however. Schuessler, “French Hoods,” 147–49. Gurney, “Extracts,” 556. See also ECRO D/DP A11, 10r, for white satin and black velvet billiments. Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 22, 30.



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great valew.”138 This description seems tantalizingly close to her famous portrait by Holbein, and if it does describe the pictured headdress, the word “cornet” was used to describe a sheer strip of lawn worn across her forehead and over her ears.139 Although none of the cornets in the regency Accounts were made of sheer fabrics, this example combined with the previous ones may point to a more generic use of the word “cornet” to describe a piece of fabric worn at the front of a headdress. Crepes – often called creppins in English records of the period – were the pleated edgings worn at the front of a French hood.140 They were purchased by the piece in the Accounts, presumably ready-made, and were distributed to a far smaller set of people than cornets. They generally cost 22s each. A few grants of one or more ells of crespe (also called crisp), a fine, sheer fabric, might have been intended to be made into crepes, but given how small crepes were, it seems unlikely that such large quantities of fabric would be needed.141

Garnishing for Hoods The part of the French hood called the garnishing in the Accounts was commonly known as a billiment in England. Although the word “billiment” could be used to refer to either the fabric crescent or the gold or jeweled borders,142 garnishings seem to have been the latter. As they were quite expensive, garnishings were granted to few and were often given for a wedding. Garnishings could be worn in pairs (one at the front of the crescent and one on top of the leading edge of the hood which overlapped the back of the crescent) or singly [454 and 712, below]. Item for ane fore and bak garnesing of gold to Ladye barbara hude—xlv li [454]

Item, for a fore and back garnishing of gold for Lady Barbara’s hood, £45.

Item for ane garnissing to hir hude weyand xiiij crownis and ane half crowne—xx li [712]

Item, for a garnishing for her hood, weighing 14½ crowns, £20.

Garnishings were not always of precious metal, however. Margaret Douglas received ribbons for “false garnishings” [785].

Hats Most women’s hats seem to have been purchased ready-made, as only one had a specific amount of fabric granted for it [397]. The rest simply had prices varying from 14s to a very luxurious £4. Hats for women at this time were probably constructed in a manner similar 138

Edward Hall, Hall’s Chronicle; Containing the History of England, during the Reign of Henry the Fourth, and the Succeeding Monarchs, to the End of the Reign of Henry the Eighth … (London: G. Woodfall, 1809), 837. 139 Buck, Holbein, 110. 140 Schuessler, “French Hoods,” 154–55. 141 A poem by William Dunbar, however, twice refers to kerchiefs of crespe, which would make sense of the amounts granted. Dunbar, Poems, 1:62, 66. 142 Schuessler, “French Hoods,” 149–51.

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to those for men, but the Accounts give few details. Most with a designated fabric were velvet, with one in satin and one simply labeled as silk. Two were specified as being felt lined with taffeta [789], and two as thrum hats of silk [30]. It is unclear whether the latter were soft caps like those worn by sailors143 or structured hats with silk thrum pile,144 though the latter seems more likely. The Regent’s wife, daughters, sisters, wards, and one maiden of the chamber received hats, and a significant percentage were given for special occasions – as part of a trousseau or in preparation for service in another court. Only those for Barbara were sometimes supplied with decoration of ribbons or passementerie. Englishwomen were also wearing hats during this period. Lady Lestrange and Lady Hastings both purchased hats, which were listed in the same line item in the Lestrange family accounts, in 1540.145 Lady Hastings’ hat was described as “of velvett,” which may imply that Lady Lestrange’s was felt. Mary I wore hats as well, including a black velvet one decorated with gold and lined with velvet, which she ordered in the spring of 1554.146

Miscellaneous A few entries refer to another sort of head covering that was almost always made of taffeta. Grants were for 1 to 1½ ells of fabric to “put about her head,” “lay upon her head,” and “cover her head.” One slightly more descriptive line item may reveal the real purpose of these coverings: “to cover her face from the sun” [394]. In two cases the fabric was black, but in most examples the color was not given. Only Margaret Douglas and her daughters received grants of fabric for this purpose.

LINEN ACCE SSOR IE S Kerchiefs Only a few kerchiefs were granted in the regency Accounts, and they were of several sorts. All were of linen – Holland cloth, Bretagne cloth, or cambric. Some were specified as being mourning kerchiefs and others night kerchiefs. Mourning kerchiefs were apparently different from everyday kerchiefs, as they occupy two adjacent line items [773, below].

143

Gardiner, Before the Mast, 33. Arnold, Patterns, 32. 145 Gurney, “Extracts,” 555. 146 Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 25. 144



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Item send to Strabogy wt þis dule goune vij elnis camrage clayth to be hir dule curchayes þe elne xvj s Summa—v li xij s

Item, sent to Strathbogie with this mourning gown, 7 ells of cambric cloth to be mourning kerchiefs for her, each ell 16s.; total: 5li. 12s.

Item mair to be hir curchayes xiiij elnis small hollande clayth þe elne xij s Summa—viij li viij s [773]

Item, also to be kerchiefs for her 14 ells of fine Holland cloth, each ell 12s.; total: 8li. 8s.

The fabric granted for kerchiefs was the same as that used for collars, handkerchiefs, and “other necessities” (see below). Like most personal linens, it was given in bulk, with quantities ranging from three to fourteen ells. The recipients were confined to Margaret Douglas, her daughter Barbara, maidens of the chamber to them, and Katherine Herries (the Regent’s ward). How and where these kerchiefs were worn is not immediately apparent, although one model survives in the portrait of Margaret Tudor, who has a white kerchief over her shoulders (fig. 17). They might also have been worn on the head. One can imagine that a night kerchief would be useful for keeping the hair in place or keeping the head warm during sleep.

Collars Fabric for collars was granted to the Regent’s daughters, one niece, and the Herries sisters. Holland cloth was by far the most common, with one example each of cambric and gall cloth.147 Most grants ranged from two to four ells of fabric. The Accounts give no clue as to the shape or style of the collars, but several possibilities emerge from images of the period. It could be that, like men’s shirts, women’s smocks were sometimes made with collars of a finer fabric. Collars were sometimes listed next to smocks, and the fabric used for the collars was generally more expensive. Alternatively, a few portraits from the Low Countries show a layer of sheer white fabric worn between the smock and the gown.148 Because parts of it are hidden by the gown, it is impossible to tell the shape of this item, but it could be similar to a partlet. White linen partlets were also worn outside the kirtle or gown in the Low Countries, as seen in many genre paintings (though more in the 1560s and 70s than earlier).149 Another possibility appears in a portrait of a young girl who has a sheer strip of white fabric on top of her garments, following the square shape of her neckline.150

147

Unlike the Holland or cambric collars, the ones of gall [704] were to be embroidered with gold. Crimson and black silk thread follow in the next two line items, and it is possible that those were also intended for embroidery on the collars. 148 E.g., Anne Stafford by Ambrosius Benson (ca. 1535; St. Louis Art Museum). 149 E.g., Egg Dance by Pieter Aertsen (1552; Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam). 150 La fillette à l’oiseau mort [Girl with a Dead Bird] by an unknown artist (first quarter of the sixteenth century; Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Brussels).

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Necessities “Necessities” was a catch-all word in the Accounts. Often part of the phrase “and other necessities,” it was often part of bills for multiple items sent by tailors and shoemakers. It also described small pieces made of black or white satin or black velvet that might be parts of hoods or other accessories. And it was used to describe miscellaneous things that servants might buy for their master or mistress in line items granting small sums of cash. It was used to refer to both men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Many of the bulk grants of linen (to be collars, smocks, handkerchiefs, etc.) also end with the phrase “and other necessities.” A few line items, however, simply specify several ells of linen simply “to be necessities.” Of course, there were many items that might be made of linen, but one possibility is that “necessities” was in some cases a euphemism for menstrual cloths. It seems clear that some women did use cloth to absorb menstrual blood in the early modern period,151 although it is more likely that they would have cut up old linen rather than new for this purpose.

Handkerchiefs The regency Accounts include very few line items that specifically mention handkerchiefs (called napkins152) for women, but it is extremely likely that they were part of the “other necessities” cut from the large pieces of linen that were commonly granted. Only Barbara and Anne received fabric for handkerchiefs, and they were always mentioned with another item to be made from the same fabric. The linen used for handkerchiefs was on the cheaper end of the range at 4s and under.

OTHER ACCE SSOR IE S Mufflers The fabric given for the few mufflers appearing in this part of the Accounts was velvet or satin and always black when a color was given. All were listed as one of multiple items to be made from the same fabric, usually in company with cornets and partlets. Mufflers may have been used to wrap the lower part of the face and/or throat to protect them from the elements.153

151

Sara Read, “‘Thy Righteousness is but a Menstrual Clout’: Sanitary Practices and Prejudice in Early Modern England,” Early Modern Women: An Interdisciplinary Journal 3 (2008): 5. See also Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies, Tudor Tailor, 24. 152 Although it may be tempting to equate this with the modern American phrase “sanitary napkin,” the word “napkin” in sixteenth-century Scotland was firmly equated with handkerchiefs for both men and women, and the linkage of napkin with menstruation is much more recent. OED, s.v. “napkin, n.2.a.” 153 DSL, s.v. “Missel(l, n.3.”



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Tippets Far from the hanging sleeve decorations of the same name popular in the fourteenth century,154 tippets for women in the Accounts were probably a small accessory like a scarf. Scarflike tippets were part of ecclesiastical dress in the sixteenth century,155 and this meaning of the word may have been borrowed from church usage. Hayward suggests that a tippet was “a short shoulder cape worn with a gown or doublet,”156 although some of the fabric amounts seem too small for that. English ordinances from 1503 outlining formal mourning to wear at funerals specified hoods with tippets (a previously fashionable form of hood with a long decorative tail),157 but a warrant from 1510 gives Margaret Ashley “six ells of sarcenet of various colours for tippets for her head and neck,”158 which suggests that the word “tippet” had multiple meanings and that tippets might have been multipurpose items. The few women’s tippets in the regency Accounts were made of taffeta and varied greatly in the amount of fabric required from ¼ ell [30] to ½ ell [353] to 1¼ ells [668]. This progression may indicate that the dimensions of tippets increased over time, but the sample size is so small that generalizations would be unwise.

Gloves Though well-represented in later sixteenth-century portraiture, few gloves are listed for women in the Accounts. Similarly, a study of Bess of Hardwick’s early accounts yielded only one pair of gloves,159 two large warrants of Mary I include none,160 and the Petre accounts only three.161 Like gloves for men, they were occasionally given in large quantities, perhaps to be used as gifts. Only Margaret Douglas and her daughters received gloves. They ranged in price from 1s 6d to 4s per pair. In only one case was any detail given: Barbara and Jean both received two pairs of goose-skin gloves, which were relatively expensive at 3s 6d per pair.

Belts Although English records mention girdles for women, in Scotland the women wore belts. These terms seem to have been analogous, however, as both were made of ribbon and were probably tied rather than buckled. Barbara, Anne, and the Herries sisters all received either ribbon or “belting silk” for belts. Each belt required 1½ to 2 ells, suggesting the possibility that one or both ends might hang freely. The Petre family also bought ribbon for girdles

154

Robin Netherton, “Tippet,” in Owen-Crocker, Coatsworth, and Hayward, Encyclopedia, 585–87. Mayo, Ecclesiastical Dress, 177. 156 Maria Hayward, The Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII (Woodbridge, UK: Boydell and Brewer, 2012), 298, and Dress, 166. 157 Hayward, Dress, 170. 158 Ibid., Dress, 91. 159 Levey, “References,” 20. 160 Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 23–28. 161 Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 21, and ECRO D/DP A11, 6r. 155

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and “to hang their books by” between 1555 and 1557,162 and Mary I purchased 213 yards of cotton ribbon for girdles in 1554.163

Combs Both Anne and Barbara received cases, or pairs, of combs. These were probably identical to those given to the Regent, most likely made of wood (although ivory combs were also sold) and with teeth on both sides (see p. 77).

Pairs of Knives Women’s knives in the Accounts were probably eating utensils rather than weapons, but they were sometimes rather decorative as well. It is unknown whether they were actually worn or simply carried to the table. Barbara and Anne both received pairs of knives [625 and 668, below], Anne’s as part of a very long list of items given to her in preparation for her to become a maiden of the chamber to Marie de Guise. Their sister Jean sent six pairs of gilt knives in crimson velvet sheaths decorated with silver passementerie as gifts to gentlewomen in France after she returned from her sojourn there with Mary Stewart.164 Item xxiiijo Decembris coft to my lady gordoune ane pair of gilt knyffis with ane scheith of veluet price—xxvj s [625]

Item, December 24th, bought for my Lady Gordon a pair of gilt knives with a sheath of velvet, price 26s.

Item for ane paire of knyvis to hir—xxiij s [668]

Item, for a pair of knives for her, 23s.

Pairs of knives appear in Henry VIII’s inventory as well,165 and extant examples from the sixteenth century can be found at the Museum of London166 and the Victoria and Albert Museum.167

Purses Only one women’s purse appears in the regency Accounts, although there are oblique references to two others. Barbara received a purse of crimson velvet that cost 24s in 1550 [625]. Two years earlier when she traveled north to her new husband’s home, she was given spend162

Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 23. Small books such as psalters were sometimes suspended from the waist. See for example a portrait of Mary Tudor by Hans Eworth (1553; Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, England). 163 Carter, “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe,” 25. It is unclear whether this ribbon was made of the fiber cotton, which was not much used for woven goods in England at that time (although it could have been imported from Italy), or if the surface was “cottoned” (resulting in a raised nap). 164 NRS E21/45/68v. 165 Starkey, Inventory, 248 [11190], 417 [16854]. 166 Nos. 35.22/40, 35.22/38. 167 No. 4303&A-1857.



Women ’s G armen ts 1 21

ing money “to put in her purse,” and her servant also received “a purse” (in the sense that she was provided with money, but it also might have been delivered in a physical purse).168 Henry VIII’s inventory includes two women’s purses: one of crimson satin, the other of white leather with buttons and tassels of gold.169 Several extant small bags, pouches, and purses were recovered from the Mary Rose, which sank in 1545, and though they were likely to have belonged to men, they give a sense of the variety of styles and materials of such items at this time.170

Pins Straight pins were used to fasten all manner of clothing and accessories at this time. The majority of the pins in the regency Accounts were sold in “papers,” most of which cost 2s to 3s. The pins were stuck in rows through pieces of paper in much the same manner as they were in several subsequent centuries.171 This method was used to package relatively small numbers of pins, but they were also sold in very large quantities. The Petre family, for example, bought them a thousand at a time.172 Although some of the entries for pins in the Accounts do not specify that they were in papers, none of the prices are high enough for them to have been bought in bulk.

CONCLU SION Although the Accounts contain fewer women’s garments and accessories than men’s, a sufficient variety exist to show in broad strokes the fashionable preferences of this time in Scotland. The Accounts corroborate a general outline of gown and kirtle, smocks, hose, and shoes with variables in the form of outerwear and accessories. A few types of special-purpose clothing existed, several of them related to riding horseback. Although the most popular color was black, most types of garments and accessories also came in a range of other colors. Wool and silk were almost equally represented, which speaks to the limited, elevated part of

168

NRS E21/42/256v. Starkey, Inventory, 206 [9654]. 170 Gardiner, Before the Mast, 107–13. 171 A fragment of an extant paper of pins was found at a French colony in the Americas that was inhabited from 1541 to 1543; Hélène Côté, “The Archaeological Collection from the Cartier-Roberval Site (1541–43): A Remarkable Testimony to French Colonization Efforts in the Americas,” Post-Medieval Archaeology 43, no. 1 (2009): 75–76. More information on extant pins can be found in Geoff Egan and Hazel Forsyth, “Wound Wire and Silver Gilt: Changing Fashions in Dress Accessories c. 1400–c. 1600,” in The Age of Transition: The Archaeology of English Culture 1400–1600, ed. David Gaimster and Paul Stamper (Oxford: Oxbow, 1997), 222–24; Gardiner, Before the Mast, 329; and Sue Margeson, Norwich Households: The Medieval and Post-Medieval Finds from Norwich Survey Excavations 1971–1978, ed. Stanley West, East Anglian Archaeology Report 58 (Norwich, UK: Norwich Survey / Norfolk Museums Service, 1993), 10–13. 172 ECRO D/DP A11, 8v, 9v. See also Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 22. 169

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female society represented in these accounts. These most fashionable of ladies had access to imported goods and, likely, styles, maintaining the appearance expected of a royal court even during the regency.

Chapter 3

Specialty Garments, Transport, and Cleaning

M ILI TA RY CL OTHING

B

ecause Scotland was at war for a large percentage of Arran’s regency, it is not surprising that the Accounts include items to be worn on the battlefield. This study only considers types of clothing that, while military in nature, were composed partially or wholly of textiles. These include harness doublets, jacks, arm guards, aprons of plate, and a few accessories. Sixteenth-century Scots did not wear uniforms on the battlefield unless they happened to be part of a household that had been issued a livery including military items. Letters sent during the war between England and Scotland sometimes mention details about battlefield wear. In June 1548, the Master of Ruthven “was at Yester with his servants in there jackes and red skarffes,”1 and in July, Pedro Strozzi was carried off, wounded, by “hys men in crymosen and whight velveit.”2 These sets of men in livery were probably identifiable to those on both sides, but humbler soldiers sometimes had to adopt some form of ad hoc insignia in order to show their allegiance. Some Scots along the borders changed sides more than once, so at one point instructions were given for “the assured Scots to wear red crosses fast sewed [on their jacks or coats] and if taken without, to be held as [enemies or] unassured.”3 The invading English army seems to have been in continual need of supplies, not the least of which was clothing for its troops. Numerous requests were sent for “coat money” and clothes for soldiers and sailors: “I humbly beg your grace for the poor mariners and soldiers, who have been these 7 months unpaid, and worn out their clothing …”4 While English troops were “forced to make match[es out] of their shirts for near 3 months,”5 “die[d]  1

Bain, Calendar, 117. Ibid., 139.  3 Ibid., 114.  4 Ibid., 107, 84.  5 I.e., they had to tear pieces out of their shirts to serve as fire-lighters.  2

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every day for lack in the extreme cold” or were “unable to serve, having neither clothes nor money,” an English spy “saw 40 French gentlemen in velvet coats, with swords and targets, land at Dunbarton to be captains to the Scots.”6

Fig. 25: Textile and metal jack or brigandine (Italy, ca. 1540–50; Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 14.25.1531, gift of William H. Riggs, 1913). Photo: Metropolitan Museum of Art.  6

Bain, Calendar, 112, 85, 49, 57.



Speci alt y G armen ts, Tr ansport, and Cl e anin g 125

Predictably, most of the military clothing in the Accounts was for those at the upper end of the social scale, especially the Regent himself, and so was more likely to resemble the French captains in their velvet coats than the shivering common soldiers of the English.

Jacks A jack was a type of torso armor often made of a textile covering and lining with metal plates and often padding or multiple layers of fabric in between.7 For this reason it was sometimes known as a “jack of plates.” Jacks required several different types of materials, including twine or heavy thread to sew them, metal plates, heavy linen or other fabric to hold the plates, and a covering of leather or fabric.8 They might also have other pieces such as sleeves or aprons to guard the arms and hips. These would be tied on with points (fig. 25). Some of the Regent’s jacks in the Accounts are not described, such as one purchased for £8 from John Clerk, his regular jack maker [22]; one whose price is unknown [65]; one he bought for £6 13s 4d [75]; and one that cost £8 15s [195]. Arran did, however, purchase jacks that were described in loving detail, including one with a covering [127], and a very fine matching set of jack, arm guards, and apron covered with purple velvet, lined with fustian and canvas, and decorated with gilt nail heads was made for him in 1547 [321, below]. The original intention had been to cover them with purple taffeta, but this did not prove satisfactory. The next month, an embroiderer corded the cross on the Regent’s jack with gold [328]. Two dozen silk points were ordered in order to affix the apron and sleeves to this jack [338]. A few months later, a covering with a lining was made for the jack, but whether that was a replacement for the purple velvet or was instead some kind of slipcover to be worn over it is not clear [351]. In 1549 the Regent paid for another jack nearly as expensive as the previous one and included a tip for the jack maker’s servants [498]. Jacks were sometimes mended, though this was costly. John Clerk repaired a jack for Arran early in his tenure, charging 22s [96].

 7

Item thre elnis purpure taffate armosene to couer ane Jak of my lorde gouernoures price of þe elne xxx s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 3 ells of purple armosene taffeta to cover a jack of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 30s; total: £4 10s.

Item þe samyn tyme to couer his Jak of new agane becaus his grace stude nocht content wt þe first coueryng thre elnis & ane quartar of purpure welwote price of þe elne iiij li x s Summa—xiij li

Item, at the same time, to cover his jack new again, because his grace stood not content with the first covering, 3¼ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £4 10s; total: £13.9

For extant examples from the sixteenth century, see National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh, no. A.1905.485, the British Museum, and the Royal Armouries (England). The words “jack” and “jacket” have an etymological relationship, and the word “jacket” was used in England at this time.  8 Gurney, “Extracts,” 513–14.  9 Curiously, all of the totals for the three pieces of purple velvet listed here are wrong. This total should be £14 12s 6d. The given total is correct if the price per ell is £4 instead of £4 10s. Unfortunately, that solution doesn’t work for the other two items.

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Item vij quartaris of þis same welwote to couer ane pair of arme splenttis of his graces price of þe elne iiij li x s Summa—viij li v s

Item, 1¾ ells of this same velvet to cover a pair of arm guards of his grace’s, price of each ell £4 10s; total: £8 5s.10

Item ane elne and ane quartar of þis same welwote to couer ane aproun of plate of his graces price—v li ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of this same velvet to cover an apron of plate of his grace’s, price £5 9d.11

Item tua elnis thre quartarris of fustiane to lyne þis aproun & splentis þe elne vj s Summa—xvj s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to line this apron and guards, each ell 6s; total: 16s 6d.

Item for nalis to said aproun and splentis— xxxviij s

Item, for nails for the said apron and guards, 38s.

Item for gylting of þir nalis—iij li

Item, for gilding of these nails, £3.

Item to Jhonne clerk for making of þis Jak aproun and splenttis—x li

Item, to John Clerk for making of this jack, apron, and guards, £10.

Item for fustiane & canves to þe lyning of þis Jak—xxiiij s [321]

Item, for fustian and canvas for the lining of this jack, 24s.

Arran’s favorite nephew James Hamilton (son of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart, the Regent’s half-brother) also received jacks, though his were far less expensive at 34s [155], 38s 9d [61], and 44s 6d [79]. The Regent’s youngest brother James Hamilton was granted a jack worth 30s [141]. Unfortunately, none of these were described. A sixteenth-century Italian jack of crimson velvet with gilt nail heads, possibly very similar to Arran’s purple velvet set, survives in the collection of the Royal Ontario Museum.12 It and other surviving pieces13 may offer clues about the cut and construction of such items. Unsurprisingly, they seem to have followed the fashionable torso line of their period of manufacture as well as mirroring the seam placement and shaping of doublets.

Harness Doublet Harness doublets, also known as arming doublets, were worn underneath armor and served both as padding and as a foundation to which pieces of plate armor or mail could be attached. Only one harness doublet appears in the regency Accounts. It was made of canvas and cost 17s [69], but unfortunately no other details were provided. A possible extant arming 10

The total should be £7 17s 6d. The total should be £5 12s 6d. 12 No. M.1350 933.34.1. For an exploration of this piece, see Jenny Tiramani, “A Spectacular Survivor from the Time of Henry VIII: The Study of a Mid-Sixteenth Century Brigandine” (Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 2010). 13 See, for example, two from the mid-sixteenth century that have sleeves and aprons in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, nos. 14.25.1531 and 14.25.1532. Numerous other sixteenth-century jacks survive in collections of Western European arms and armor. 11



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doublet of ca. 1560 was made of red satin, lightly padded, and provided with eyelets at the top of the armscye and at the waist, possibly for tying on sleeves and an apron of plate or mail.14 Another was made of leather and had mail sleeves attached in a fashion similar to that shown in a mid-century painting by Giovanni Moroni.15

Sleeves and Gloves of Plate Sleeves of plate consisted of plates of metal intended to cover the arms that could be attached to a harness doublet. It is unclear whether these were made in the same way as the arm guards (“arme splenttis”) that were part of the matching set mentioned above [321], though the Privy Council Records from 1552 mention “splent slevis of mailyie or plait,” suggesting that splents and splent sleeves could be made in various ways.16 Interestingly, an extant jack with sleeves also has a pair of forearm guards made of overlapping plates of metal, which could be candidates for “sleeves of plate.”17 Alternatively, they could have been metal sleeves such as would have been worn with a full suit of plate armor.18 John Clerk made Arran a pair of sleeves of plate, a partial payment for which was 22s [156]. The rest of the payment was a substantial £4 8s [165]. The Regent also had at least one pair of gloves of plate, or armored gloves.19 John Clerk mended them and supplied a pair of leather gloves to be worn inside them [127].20

Other Accessories The word “tippet” had many meanings over the course of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. It referred to the tail of a hood in the fifteenth century (called a liripipe in some modern texts), but has also been defined as a clerical scarf 21 and a shoulder cape.22 Worsted tippets – unfortunately with no further description – appear in wills from 1551 and 1561 from northern England.23 A warrant for King Henry VII called for collar tippets for two doublets.24 Accounts from the Scottish treasury from the reign of King James V listed tippets for cloak collars25 and hats with tippets (perhaps a long narrow piece worn as a hatband),26 and a few entries call for a helm, a bonnet to be worn over it, and a tippet for the bonnet.27 14

National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh, no. A.1983.791; Arnold, Patterns, 20, 70–71. Philadelphia Museum of Art, no. 1977-167-240. Giovanni Battista Moroni, A Knight with his Jousting Helmet (ca. 1554–58; National Gallery, London). 16 Paul, Accounts, 10:xxxv, and DSL, s.v. “Splent, 2.” 17 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 14.25.1532. 18 For example, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, nos. 29.158.1e–f. 19 For a discussion of armored gauntlets, see Willemsen, “Taking Up the Glove,” 27–29. 20 For an extant glove of plate, or gauntlet, see Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 1984.72. 21 Netherton, “Tippet,” 586. 22 Hayward, Great Wardrobe, 298. 23 Raine, Wills, 135, 195. 24 Hayward, Great Wardrobe, 23. 25 Paul, Accounts, 2:230, 4:16. 26 Ibid., 4:203, 6:424, 7:104. 27 Ibid., 6:186, 247–48. 15

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However, of the few tippets for men in the regency Accounts, most are associated with the metal helms (commonly called “steel bonnets”) worn as part of the armor in war. The material, when specified, was ½ to ⅜ of an ell of taffeta, and tippets were sometimes part of the same grants as belts or garters. This might have been because they were made of the same fabric rather than because there was an intention that they match. With these clues, it seems likely that tippets at this time and place were decorative items in the form of a long, narrow strip to be worn on the helmet, perhaps similar to the torse in a full heraldic achievement. The Accounts also list a few “coverings” for steel helms. They ranged from 18s to 28s, about the same price as a helm for the Regent [206], although Arran’s youngest brother received a helm and covering together for 24s [141] and a helm, covering, and tippet for 14s 6d [79], so as with most other types of items, quality must have varied. The only helm covering with a specified material was made of black wool [649].28 It is not clear whether these were worn over the helm (as the covering for a jack was) or if they had another purpose.

W EDDING CL OTHING In the mid-sixteenth century, just as today, formal clothing was considered an important part of getting married for those who could afford it. Not only do the Accounts detail the styles, fabrics, and colors used, they also suggest the way that wedding clothing helped to create this important social contract. Women often received not just bridal attire but also a trousseau (a collection of clothing and other items intended to send the bride into her new status with a suitable wardrobe). The brides represented in the Accounts were of course those for whom the Regent felt some responsibility, so the sample is limited, but they do give several examples of what was considered appropriate.29 In most cases, wedding clothing in the sixteenth century did not differ from fashions that might be worn at other times except that it was the finest and most formal that could be afforded. Of course, the expense and type of wedding clothing was scaled to the recipient. Margaret Hamilton, the daughter of one of the Regent’s half-brothers, received a relatively modest but still quite respectable grant for her first wedding [76]. She wore a gown made of imported French wool, possibly black, with tawny velvet trim. The violet camlet of the kirtle was among the most expensive camlets listed in the Accounts. She was also granted purple velvet sleeves. The color suggests a more expensive dye, and the velvet was the most expensive fabric, so it was economical to use it for a smaller item in the ensemble. Her hose were relatively high quality – the utterfine for them cost 25s 6d per ell, while the worsted for her gown cost only 15s per ell. Another set of wedding clothes for a niece of the Regent was probably also for Margaret Hamilton, though it is not certain [712]. If it was the same person, her circumstances had improved; or it may be that the spouse in this case, who was later the seventh Earl of 28

A few coverings for helms that appear in the original Accounts are not included in the transcriptions in this volume, because it was not clear at first that they were made of fabric. 29 The regency Accounts do not include any clothing obviously intended for grooms on their wedding day.



Speci alt y G armen ts, Tr ansport, and Cl e anin g 1 29

Angus, required a finer presentation. Now her whole gown was of tawny velvet, not just the trimmings. It was also grand enough to have a train, and the whole kirtle was purple velvet, rather than just the sleeves. She also received French hoods and a garnishing to wear with them (which in England would have been called a billiment) made of gold. She was granted a small trousseau of silk garments as well, all of which could be worn in combination with the wedding garments. Elizabeth Hamilton, Lady Calderwood, was also Arran’s niece, and her red damask gown bordered with black velvet was paired with a satin kirtle and accessorized with a black velvet hood and partlet [368]. Although damask was silk, the most expensive damasks were three-quarters of the price of plain velvet, so her clothing was grander than Margaret’s first wedding ensemble but not as fine as her second. Grisel Hamilton, another niece, received a cash payment of £46 7s 6d “for a set of clothes” for her marriage that was a bit less than was spent on Elizabeth, but no details were given [344]. Like Margaret, the Regent’s cousin Jean Lyle received a gown of tawny velvet with a train, this one to be worn with a tawny satin kirtle and black velvet hood and partlet [495]. Another gown, of black damask trimmed with black velvet, was listed first but was less valuable than the velvet gown and so was less likely to have been worn at the ceremony. Katherine Herries and her sister Jane were wards of the Earl, so not only were they his dependents, he also had a financial interest in their marriages. The list of garments for Katherine was rather longer than those for his nieces and cousin [645]. In addition to a tawny velvet gown with wide sleeves and a long train and a purple satin kirtle with sleeves, Katherine was provided with a substantial wardrobe of mostly silk garments plus body linen and a wool cloak and petticoat for keeping warm. Katherine’s sister Jane married less than a year later. She received both a purple velvet gown and a black one with a train as well as several sets of satin skirts and sleeves [713]. Jane had a slightly larger trousseau than Katherine, though it was roughly comparable. The exception was the ten ounces of gold garnishing (for her French hood) and chains, which Katherine did not also receive. Interestingly, a few months later an entry appeared for Katherine for ten ounces of gold for garnishing and chains [768]. Barbara was the Regent’s eldest daughter, and as might be expected, her wedding grants were the most extravagant of all and include the only cloth-of-gold and cloth-of-silver garments in the regency Accounts and an extensive trousseau. Her wedding clothes included a royal robe of purple velvet lined with white taffeta and furred with powderings of ermine [429, 442]. A royal robe was apparently an unfamiliar garment, as 12½ ells of canvas were issued to make a pattern for it. According to earlier Accounts, the previous queen, Marie de Guise, had one, also of purple velvet lined in white, as did her husband King James V.30 His was accompanied by a kirtle, cap, and hood in an ensemble that sounds very much like those prescribed for the Order of the Garter in England, which included a blue velvet mantle (or floor-length cape).31 These mantles are listed under the heading Robes in the 30

Paul, Accounts, 7:277. As pictured in illuminations by Lucas Horenbout in the Black Book of the Order of the Garter (1534–51); see “Henry VIII and the Black Book,” College of St. George Archives, Windsor Castle, March 24, 2009, https://www.stgeorges-windsor.org/henry-viii-and-the-black-book (accessed Nov. 2, 2018).

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inventories of Henry VIII’s wardrobe.32 Therefore, it is possible that Barbara’s royal robe for the wedding was a floor-length cape of purple velvet lined in white, and that it was suggested by the dowager queen, for whom Barbara had been a maiden of the chamber for several months. Marie de Guise was certainly involved in the preparations, as she refused a length of white lining fabric for the robe and caused a better piece to be sent. Underneath this mantle, Barbara might have worn the gown of cloth of silver with white satin sleeves mentioned in the account for January (in the list of things specified as being for her wedding [429]) with the kirtle that had a skirt of cloth of gold from the same list. Or she might have worn a cloth-of-gold gown with sleeves of crimson satin that she had received the previous November [419], which would have coordinated nicely with the kirtle of crimson satin in the list from January. Another line item associated with the royal robe describes a white satin stomacher. Stomachers were often mentioned in conjunction with pregnant women as a way to fill in the space between the edges of a gown,33 but they were worn by all. Queen Elizabeth I had numerous stomachers made during her reign (including one from relatively early, in 156234), and there is no evidence that Barbara was pregnant when she married. It could be that the gown was laced across the front but lacked the panel that some gowns had to cover the lacing,35 and the stomacher filled in the gap so that the green satin bodice of the cloth-of-gold kirtle did not show. Barbara’s trousseau included several more gowns, including a furred night gown, kirtles, hoods, and other accessories. A similarly extensive trousseau was assembled for Thomasine Petre, a member of the English gentry, though it did not include fabrics as rich as Barbara’s.36 Thomasine also received gold buttons enameled with black and white and additional buttons enameled in white as well as rings and chains, while Barbara’s wedding featured gold made into targets, tablets, and hearts (harts?); bracelets; a chain; and rings (referred to collectively as “toys”) to be distributed as favors to the guests.37 Interestingly, at least one other person received clothing specifically to wear to Barbara’s wedding. Elizabeth Hamilton (a different person from the one discussed previously) was granted a white damask gown trimmed in white velvet [432]. Two others received gowns interspersed with Barbara’s wedding clothes in the Accounts that may or may not have been wedding-related. One of the Herries sisters was given a gown of black damask and a kirtle of white silk camlet trimmed with black velvet [430], and Margaret Crichton received a gown of satin and a kirtle of damask, both of unknown color [433]. 32

The Order of the Garter was also known as the Order of St. George and is listed that way in the inventory. Starkey, Inventory, 249 [11245], 356 [14177]. 33 For example, John Hussee’s famous letter describing Jane Seymour as “great with child, and shall be open-laced with stomacher by Corpus Christi Day at the farthest.” St. Clare Byrne, Lisle Letters, 4:142. 34 Warrant for the Robes, Oct. 20, 1562 (London, National Archives, PRO LC 5/33), transcribed and compiled by Drea Leed, Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Uploaded (online database), http://elizabethancostume. net/cyte/node/32656 (accessed Aug. 13, 2017). 35 Careful examination of Hans Holbein’s Jane Seymour (1536; Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna) reveals a row of pinheads down the side front of her bodice. These are fastening the edge of the panel down. 36 Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 28–31. 37 NRS E21/42/239. Targets, tablets, and hearts were all small ornaments. See DSL, s.v. “Target, 2,” “Tablet, 1,” and “Hart, 1b.”



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The impressiveness of wedding clothing was clearly important enough for some substantial investment, and it seems that some families of modest means might have a claim on a wealthier patron for assistance. The Regent not only provided wedding clothes or money for several of his dependents and relatives but also gave money for wedding clothing to people like his lawyer’s daughter [764] and the daughter of Helen Ross [484], who had made him an elaborate book cover and case. It should be noted that he was generous enough to give money for her daughter’s wedding even though he had previously paid Helen herself £20 of hush money to “stop her scurrility and evil tongue.” Unfortunately, the story behind that is lost.38 The reasons for a differential in the amount or type of clothing between a first wedding and a second wedding or between two sisters are sometimes clear and sometimes obscure, as are matters of personal taste in style and color. Clearly there was a preference for tawny, purple, black, and crimson, with a few examples of white here and there. This was not too different from the results of the more general surveys of color preference in mid-century Scotland and England, although in non-wedding contexts black features much more heavily. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell how much input most of these brides had on what they would wear for their wedding. They did not control the money used for the purchases, and of course the impressiveness of the wedding reflected on the family as a whole, not just the bride and groom. In some cases it seems that people with political power, such as the Regent and the dowager Queen Marie de Guise, may have had more influence than the bride herself. Of course, the place of the family in society was not the only consideration, and the trousseaux provided for many brides suggest a personal care for the future well-being of the bride as she took her new place in society as a wife.

M OUR NING CL OTHING Specialized mourning clothing in Scotland had been known since at least early 1503/04, when King James IV ordered a mourning gown with a hood and a riding gown for mourning to mark the death of his brother, the Archbishop of St. Andrews.39 The mourning clothing in the Accounts represented a form of livery or ceremonial clothing rather than a personal display of grief. Such clothing was more traditional than fashionable in form for the chief mourners at the funeral. Pieter Bruegel the Elder shows a mantle and a fourteenth-century-style hood with a long tail40 in his Misanthrope of 1568, the legend of which reads, “Because the world is so unfaithful – That is why I go in mourning.”41 A French costume book of 1562 shows various 38

See p. 000. Paul, Accounts, 2:223. 40 This style of hood was still worn at funerals in the late sixteenth century, as shown in a drawing of Sir Philip Sydney’s funeral in 1588. Lou Taylor, Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History (London: George Allen and Unwin, 1983), 88–89. 41 The Misanthrope by Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1568; Museo National di Capodimonte, Naples), reproduced in Stechow, Bruegel, 116 and color plate 35. 39

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styles: a deep hood and full-length, sleeved robe (fig. 26);42 a “village mourner” who merely has an unusual overhang to the front of her French hood; a “mourner of Bayonne” with a hooded cloak; and a damsel in a pleated white mourning barbe.43 The deep hood, robe, and mantle in these images accord well with descriptions of the principal mourners at Prince Arthur’s funeral in 1500: “Therl of Surrey, principall morener, in his sloppe and mantell of blak, havyng his mornenyng hode over his hed … than therlles of Shreuesbury and of Kent with sloppis and hodis only”44 [The Earl of Surrey, principal mourner, in his robe and mantle of black, having his mourning hood over his head … then the Earls of Shrewsbury and of Kent with robes and hoods only]. An English book of ordinances from 1503 laid out the details of formal mourning for several grades of noblewomen, most of whom were to wear surcoats, mantles, hoods, and barbes.45 The hood extending out to obscure the face seems to have been a key element, as it was also mentioned in another set of instructions from the sixteenth century: “as many Lordes as do accompany the corps must be cladde all in blacke … with their hoodes hanginge farre over their eyes.”46 Less exalted personages were also outfitted in black, adding to the performance of grief at a funeral, and sums were often left in wills in order to finance this. Englishwoman Dame Constance Chamberlayn left instructions in her will of 1541 describing the “12 poor men in black hooded gowns who were to stand about the bier holding torches and praying for her soul, and five poor virtuous women similarly arrayed in new black gowns who were to kneel in front of the bier and pray.…”47 Lady Morris left provision for over a hundred mantles, gowns, and coats,48 and a London alderman more than 280 gowns.49 These mourners did not wear the traditional, old-fashioned hoods and robes of the nobles, but their garb might still be somewhat archaic. Even children sometimes had traditional mourning clothes. Sir David Owen left money in his will of 1529 “To make them gownes and hodes after the maner and facon of morners … I wille that everyone of my children have gownes and hodes of blake clothe.”50 42

The verse reads: “Here are the clothes customary to the mourner, / Who wears black in color like darkness, / Sighing heavily, with tears in his eyes, / While the solemn funeral for the deceased takes place.” Deserps, Collection, 53. 43 Ibid., 53, 79, 80, 104. A barbe, probably descended from the wimple, covered the throat and upper shoulders and sometimes the chin. The “white mourning” was not confined to France but was made famous by Mary Stewart (a.k.a. Queen of Scots); see an example in the portrait Mary Queen of Scots by François Clouet (ca. 1559–60; Royal Collection, London). 44 Kipling, Receyt, 82. 45 Hayward, Dress, 169–70. A redrawing of a ca. 1576 drawing of “A Countesse in mourninge apparaill” shows this type of ceremonial dress in Phyllis Cunnington and Catherine Lucas, Costume for Births, Marriages and Deaths (New York: Barnes and Noble, 1972), 209. 46 Cunnington and Lucas, Births, 155. 47 Susan E. James, Women’s Voices in Tudor Wills, 1485–1603 (Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2015), 26–27. The prayers of the poor were considered to be the most effective for expediting a soul’s release from purgatory; Hayward, Dress, 63. 48 Henry Machyn, The Diary of Henry Machyn, Citizen and Merchant-Taylor of London, from A.D. 1550 to A.D. 1563, ed. John Nichols (London: J. B. Nichols, 1848), 6. 49 Ibid., 67. 50 Phyllis Cunnington and Anne Buck, Children’s Costume in England from the Fourteenth to the End of the Nineteenth Century (London: Adam and Charles Black, 1966), 45.



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Fig. 26: Depiction of a mourner from Recueil de la diuersité des habits qui sont de present en vsaige tant es pays d'Europe, Asie, Affrique et Illes sauuages, le tout fait apres le naturel, by François Deserps (Paris, 1562). James Ford Bell Library, University of Minnesota.

In the same way that livery would be issued to a household for a coronation in order to both recognize the occasion and make a grand show,51 a household might collectively be given mourning clothes. The Regent granted a wide variety of mourning clothing to 51

Lisa Monnas, “‘Plentie and Abundaunce’: Henry VIII’s Valuable Store of Textiles,” in Hayward and Ward, Textiles and Dress, 264–72.

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members of his household upon the death of the dowager Queen Marie de Guise’s French father in 1550. This was atypical in that generally the estate of the deceased paid for fabric for mourning clothing for rich and poor mourners alike. That Arran should make such a public point of mourning the demise of a man who had never even visited Scotland was almost certainly a political act in the ongoing competition between him and Marie de Guise for the regency. Curiously, the death of King James V resulted in far fewer mourning clothes in the Accounts. The Regent, his wife and her attendants, his brother, the late king’s master cook and fool, and two other members of his household were the only recipients. These grants did not follow the custom of reserving formal, old-fashioned mourning to the nobility, and anyone might receive black mourning clothing that was more fashionable in style, either in addition to the formal mourning garb or instead of it. The Regent himself had a mourning gown and hood, but also a mourning coat, bonnet [306],52 cloak, hose, belt, and hat [553]. These latter items must have been in some way specific to the occasion, as he certainly had plenty of black clothing in his wardrobe. He and his sons Claude and David had mourning gowns [557], and these were noted as being for the “quenys graces cuming to linlytqw þe tyme of hir dule” [queen’s grace’s coming to Linlithgow at the time of her mourning] – clearly the Hamiltons wanted to demonstrate their mourning during her visit. His daughter Barbara’s husband received a mourning coat and cloak with matching hose [560]. Other lords and members of his household lower down on the social scale were issued mourning coats and cloaks and black hose, some of them in batches [561–67, 575, 585; see as an example 565, below].

52

Item to be ane dule cote and ane cloke to Archiebald prestoun depute to þe maister of houshald fyve elnis and ane quartar vnprest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for Archibald Preston, deputy to the Master of Household, 5¼ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.53

Item fyve elnis and ane quartar of þe same blak to be cote and cloke to Archiebald hammiltoun of þe pantre price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, 5¼ ells of the same black to be a coat and cloak for Archibald Hamilton of the pantry, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

Item to /m/ Robert auchmowtye stewart to be him cote and cloke fyve elnis & ane quartar of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to Master Robert Auchmoutye, steward, to be a coat and cloak for him, 5¼ ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

This record [306] is from May 1547, three years prior to the death of Marie de Guise’s father. The total for this and the next three items should be £12 1s 6d. The given total would be correct if the price per ell were 44s rather than 46s.

53



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Item to his graces seruitour […] baxter fyve elnis and ane quartar of þis same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to his grace’s servant, …, baker, 5¼ ells of this same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

Item to be stokis of hois to þir foure thre elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li xviij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for these four, 3 ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 18s.

Item tua elnis stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li viij s [565]

Item, 2 ells of stemming to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: £4 8s.

Marie de Guise decided to visit France following her father’s death, but she was unsure of the protocol there for mourning clothing. She wrote to Diane de Poitiers, a family connection and the king’s former mistress, asking what would be appropriate and was informed that she should not wear full mourning but might very respectably wear black clothing.54 Scottish widows were expected to wear black for a period of time after their husband’s death, but this custom was not as detailed and rigid as it would be for the upper crust and wealthy bourgeoisie of Victorian England. Still, Scotland had some version of “first mourning” and “second mourning” – the former more recognizable and formal than the latter – and not just for widows. Queen Mary Stewart’s ladies were issued both money and black velvet for their “secund dule” [mourning] in November 1561.55 Widows were so commonly expected to dress in black that more than one Scottish poet employed the custom for symbolism or commentary. Sir David Lyndsay used a widow’s mourning garb as a metaphor in a poem about flowers in winter: I met dame Flora, in dule weid dissagysit, Quilk in to May wes dulce, and deletabyll; With stalwart stormis, hir sweitnes wes supprisit; Hir hevynlie hewis war turnit in to sabyll, Quilkis umquhile war to luffaris amiabyll.56

[I met dame Flora, in mourning clothes disguised, Which into May was sweet and delectable; With strong storms her sweetness was supressed; Her heavenly hues were turned to sable, Which formerly were to the living amiable.]

William Dunbar scolded widows for hiding their lasciviousness under their black clothes in a poem written from the point of view of a duplicitous widow: I busk as I wer bailfull, bot blith is my hert; My mouth it makis murnyng, and my mynd lauchis; 54

Marshall, “Hir Rob Ryall,” 6. Paul, Accounts, 11:84. 56 Lyndsay, Works, 4. 55

[I dress as if I were miserable, but blithe is my heart; My mouth makes mourning, and my mind laughs;

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My clokis thai ar cairfull in colour of sabill; Bot courtly and ryght curyus my corse is ther undir: I drup with a ded luke, in my dule habit57

My cloaks they are careful in color of sable; But my body is courtly and right curious underneath: I droop with a dead look, in my mourning clothes]

The only widow to be granted mourning garb in the regency Accounts was Barbara, the Regent’s eldest daughter, after the death of her first husband, Lord Gordon. She initially received what were probably ceremonial clothes to wear to the funeral in the form of a mourning gown and hood of French wool, the gown furred with miniver and edged with ermine, and the hood furred with lettice. The gown had clasps and linings of fustian and gray like many others, but given that it was paired with a formal mourning hood, it was probably of a more traditional style. Her mourning kerchiefs of cambric were evidently different from the regular kerchiefs of Holland cloth in the next line item [773]. At the same time, her maiden of the chamber Elizabeth Douglas also received a mourning gown with furring and mourning kerchiefs of Holland cloth [782]. A few months later, Barbara was granted more black wool for a gown edged with ermine and also cambric and Holland cloth for mourning kerchiefs [798, 809], and Elizabeth got a mourning cloak and skirt, again of black wool [813]. Although mourning clothing and funeral processions in Scotland were not as formalized as those in England, certain cultural expectations existed with regard to how people of various relationships to the deceased would dress. The formal, ceremonial garb for funerals was probably quite similar in style to that found in England, France, and the Low Countries, but certain items such as mourning kerchiefs might have been peculiar to Scotland.

LIVE RY Livery was the prerogative of rulers and the noble class and was part of the expected remuneration of those working in a noble household. It was also understood to be part of the bond of loyalty that members of a household owed to its head.58 This bond could be personal in nature rather than to the family as a whole. At the funeral of Henry VIII’s elder brother Prince Arthur, his herald took off his coat of arms and cast it into the grave to symbolize that he was a masterless man.59 Livery was given as clothing, as fabric, and as money in the regency Accounts, often just before Christmas.60 In some cases it is clear that the money

57

Dunbar, Poems, 76; see Appendix 4.vi. Hayward, Dress, 244. 59 Kipling, Receyt, 92, 168. 60 Similar provisions can be found in the accounts of the Lestrange family in England. Gurney, “Extracts,” 424 (fabric for livery), 452 (money for livery), 468 (fabric for livery), 469 (money for livery), 498–99 (money and small amounts of fabric for “colors” – perhaps small insignia – and “sleeves”), 540 (fabric for livery and money to buy a livery). 58



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was intended for the purchase of clothing, but in others there is no way to be certain [e.g., 628 vs. 244, below]. Item be my lord governouris precept to his grace foure violaris for þair martymes feis last bipast and toby þame levaray clathis with aganis þis nixt ȝule—lx li [628]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to his grace’s four violists for their last Martinmas fees, and to buy themselves livery clothes with for this next Yule, £60.

Item be my lord gouernoures precept to Jhonne Drummond for his lyfray agane ȝule—xx li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Drummond for his livery for Yule, £20.

Item to Jhonne crauffurd for his lyfray—xij li [244]

Item, to John Crawford for his livery, £12.

Since the Regent provided clothes periodically for many of his servants, it is sometimes difficult to tell what was considered livery and what was not. His master cook John Mont received a length of fabric “for his livery” that was not designated for a particular garment (although a later line item suggests that it might have been a cloak) and several other grants for clothing and accessories that might or might not have also been considered part of his livery [105, below]. Item þe xvj day of December be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Johne mont maister cuke for his Lyveray xj quarteris spanȝe freis price of þe elne þairof xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

Item, the 16th day of December by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Mont, master cook, for his livery, 2¾ ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell thereof 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Item for ane elne of wterfyne to be him ane pair of hois—xxxij s

Item, for an ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, 32s.

Item xj quarteris blak sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxvij s Summa—v li xxj d

Item, 2¾ ells of black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 37s; total: £5 0s 21d.

Item for ane bonet—xx s

Item, for a bonnet, 20s.

Item for x elnis pasmentis to his cloke—xx s

Item, for 10 ells of passementerie for his cloak, 20s.

Item twa elnis taffate to his hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for his hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for tua skynnis and ane half to be him ane cote price thairof—xxxij s vj d [105]

Item, for two and a half skins to be a coat for him, price thereof 32s 6d.

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In general, the livery clothing granted was not a specific color or style shared by multiple members of the household, though the quality and types of the garments and fabric were scaled to the status of the recipients. For example, the Regent’s fool was given a coat but not a gown, which would have been reserved for those higher up the social scale. He was also given a hood [810], which may have been the traditional fool’s hood with asses’ ears, although Henry VIII’s fool Will Somers was depicted in a coat with an attached hood (fig. 6). However, some of the Regent’s retainers did have heraldic display livery, which is to say clothing made from specific colors in a specific style designed to announce visually that they were part of a particular noble household. His trumpeters, his fools, the drivers of his mule and packhorse, and a few others sported red and white particolored livery, which reflected the heraldic colors of the house of Hamilton.61 Although particolored fashion had for the most part gone out of style by the end of the fifteenth century, it survived in royal display livery well into the sixteenth century.62 King James V had liveried servants in red and yellow,63 and of course Henry VIII gave display livery of many kinds to his various retainers, some of which was particolored.64 A Spanish “book of costume” showing fashions from the middle of the sixteenth century includes an English archer in particolored coat and hose, giving a sense of how such livery might have looked (fig. 27).65 The display livery for the Regent’s household may have sometimes had some sort of insignia, as a coat for the trumpeter required the services of an embroiderer [232, below]. The embroidery was fairly expensive, as the £5 charged for the making and embroidering was twenty times the normal cost of making a coat, which was about 5s. Two years later, another livery coat for a trumpeter had a similarly high labor charge, suggesting that it too may have had embroidery although it was not specified [455]. Item þe xxix day of October be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiall commande foure elnis demygrane to be ane part of the trumpetouris cote & hois þe elne xxxij s Summa—vj li vij s

61

Item, the 29th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 4 ells of demigrain to be one part of the trumpeter’s coat and hose, each ell 32s; total: £6 7s.66

The Earl of Arran’s arms are described in a 1542 armorial as “Quarterly: 1st and 4th Argent, a lymphad Sable (Earldom of Arran) 2nd and 3rd Gules, three pierced cinquefoild Argent (Hamilton).” Sir David Lindsay’s Armorial (Edinburgh, National Library of Scotland, Adv.MS.31.4.3 [Mf.Sec.MSS.84]), online at http://www.heraldry-scotland.co.uk/lindsay.html (accessed Aug. 2, 2015). 62 Hayward, Rich Apparel, 139. A particolored piece of clothing was generally made in at least two different colors with the division running vertically down the center of the garment. More elaborate divisions and alternation of colors became fashionable as the style matured. 63 Paul, Accounts, 7:150–2. 64 Hayward, Dress, 245, and Maria Hayward, “Luxury or Magnificence? Dress at the Court of Henry VIII,” Costume 30 (1996): 42. 65 Fol. 35 (“In Engeland”) of Códice de trajes by an unknown artist (sixteenth century; Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de España, MS RES/285), online at http://bdh.bne.es/bnesearch/detalle/bdh0000052132, view page 39 (accessed Oct. 8, 2018). Livery in these colors was issued to certain parts of Henry VIII’s army on campaign in 1544. Hayward, Dress, 245. 66 The total should be £6 8s.



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Fig. 27: English archer in heraldic display livery, from Codice de trajes: Códice Madrazo-Daza, by an unknown artist (ca. 1540; RES/285, fol. 35). Property of and from the collection of Biblioteca Nacional de España.

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Item to be þe other half of þe said cote and hois thre elnis and ane half franche quhite þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, to be the other half of the said coat and hose, 3½ ells of French white, each ell 36s; total: £6 6s.

Item v elnis gray to lyne þe said cote price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xx s

Item, 5 ells of gray to line the said coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 20s.

Item for making of þis cote to þe tailȝeour and Broudstair—v li [232]

Item, for making of this coat, to the tailor and the embroiderer, £5.

The Regent’s personal pages received a subtler form of heraldic livery in addition to plainer clothing, but all of it was in black, red, white, and/or gray. The first page listed in the regency Accounts, Claude Stratoun, received mostly black clothing from 1545 to 1547, but his final grant as a page in March 1547/48 included a red coat and hose and a black cloak [369]. Claude’s successor Arthur Hamilton, whose grants began in 1549, had rather more elaborate livery. His russet cloak and coat were bordered in red and white velvet, possibly in a particolored fashion with red on one side and white on the other side. These were paired with gray hose [476]. A similar outfit substituted English brown for the russet [518], but a variation included a coat and cloak of English scarlet bordered with white velvet, a black doublet, and incarnate hose lined in white [630].67 In the midst of these showy liveries, Arthur also received solid-color black and gray coats and doublets and hose. The final regency page, Thomas Hamilton, also had plain clothes in black and red and white as well as display livery. The latter tended towards red cloaks and coats bordered with white velvet and matching red hose [701, 754, 801]. To cap off the show, both Claude and Thomas had red bonnets, which would have stood out in a sea of black ones. A fool named Janet Curllaw received a russet kirtle trimmed with red and white that may also have been display livery [603]. The regency Accounts include only two instances of display livery in colors other than those of the house of Hamilton. For the first wedding of the Regent’s daughter Barbara, her mother-in-law was granted blue and yellow fabric to be given as livery [440], because those were her son’s heraldic colors.68 A few years later, the Regent ordered a set of livery for one of Barbara’s retainers in blue bordered with yellow, complete with a blue bonnet [746]. Each of the Regent’s retainers who wore display livery would have been very visible. His fools would have been part of any court that he maintained, and the trumpeters might have been employed to provide entertainment or fanfares. Members of the stable staff would have been visible when he traveled and if he went hunting with other members of the nobility. His pages served as personal attendants and were probably present in the background much of the time. This public display was the main purpose of heraldic livery, as can be seen in an account of a muster in London in 1551/52 including the retainers of many different lords: the Lord Treasurer’s men in red and white, the Earl of Rutland’s in yellow and blue, Lord 67

Although scarlet cloth was not necessarily red in color, in this case it probably was. Incarnate was a shade of red or rose, the color of raw flesh. 68 The Gordon arms are described in Sir David Lindsay’s Armorial of 1542 (see note 61, above) as “Azure, three boars’ heads couped Or.”



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Cobham’s in black and white, and many of these with embroidered insignia or badges.69 Members of the Regent’s household arrayed in display livery would have added to his public consequence and reinforced his symbolic role as ruler, an important function considering the contested nature of his regency. The Regent’s uses of livery for display, to form a bond of loyalty, and as payment in various forms were very much in accord with other nobles of similar rank in England. The detailed, particolored display livery and insignia worn by his pages and certain others of his household would have put him among the first rank, although the numbers he provided were far lower than are recorded for the high lords of England. The fact that he chose particolored livery for some of his retainers implies that he meant to follow the royal tradition of James V.

CA R R I AG E , STOR AG E , A ND CA R E OF GA RME NTS The Accounts offer incidental clues regarding transportation, storage, and laundering of garments. Because the Regent and his family traveled frequently, their clothing was often packed for a journey. The most common method for the packing and carrying (“tursing”) of textiles and clothing was to wrap items in cheap fabric and tie the bundle with cord. Numerous purchases of one to three ells of canvas or buckram may be found in the Accounts for the purpose of transporting the family’s wardrobes from place to place or for delivering a gift of clothing. For reference, 1½ ells of canvas were required to wrap four ells of cambric, three ells of lawn, two ells of gall cloth, a petticoat, two skirts, hoods, partlets, a gown, and a cloak [757]. It is not clear whether the canvas was sewn shut, or simply wrapped around and tied. Items in Henry VIII’s household were sometimes “trussed” in this manner and sewn shut to make them secure.70 These bundles were usually carried from place to place by a boy, presumably on foot, who was paid based on the distance, often between 3s and 10s [for example, 815, below] or by someone who was going that way already [210].

69

Item xiiijto Maii ane boy send to linly tqw wt butis and schone to my lorde gouernoures grace—iij s

Item, May 14th, to a boy sent to Linlithgow with boots and shoes for my lord governor’s grace, 3s.

Item xvjto Maii ane boy send to Striuiling wt ane cote and ane goun of growgrane to his grace—vj s viij d

Item, May 16th, to a boy sent to Stirling with a coat and a gown of grosgrain for his grace, 6s 8d.

Item xxo maii ane boy send to Linly tqw and fra þine to hammiltoun wt clathis to my lorde gouernoures sounes Dauid and Claude—ix s vj d [815]

Item, May 20th, to a boy sent to Linlithgow and from thence to Hamilton with clothes for my lord governor’s sons David and Claude, 9s 6d.

Machyn, Diary, 12–13. Maria Hayward, “The Packing and Transportation of the Possessions of Henry VIII, with Particular Reference to the 1547 Inventory,” Costume 31 (1997): 11.

70

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Some garments required more than just transportation, as was the case for a frieze cloak for the Regent that was apparently not ready in time. A boy was paid 10s to wait for it to be finished in Edinburgh, then carry it to Arran at St. Andrew’s, which is roughly fifty miles away [236]. A boy sent with clothes for the Regent from Edinburgh to Elgin, a journey of over 150 miles, was paid 30s for his trouble [748]. More permanent, though still portable, storage came in the form of sewn fabric containers, trunks, and coffers.71 The regency Accounts include only two examples of the first of these: a wallet for storing shirts [79]72 and a bag for the Regent’s night gear [596]. The price of various types of storage and transport no doubt influenced their popularity. Coffers (30s to £3) were far more expensive than bags (5s 7d) and lengths of canvas (2s per ell). When coffers needed to be transported, horses were often rented. The Regent’s eldest daughter took two large coffers full of her wardrobe on a trip north, and two horses and a boy to accompany them were hired [186, 189]. In another case of Arran’s clothing not being ready to travel when he was, a horse was rented to carry a trunk with certain garments that would follow him from Edinburgh to Arbroath [722]. Horses were also hired to carry tailors when they traveled to their clients. In addition to frequent travel, the Regent’s family lived in more than one place (and generally not in Edinburgh, where the tailors were based). In several instances, tailors rode to the town of Hamilton or Linlithgow in order to take measurements, make clothes, or perhaps fit clothes already made. In some cases, two horses were rented: one to carry the tailor, and the other to carry the clothing [793], or horses were rented for the tailors and a “fellow” hired to carry a package of clothes [642]. John Anderson traveled several times to Hamilton in order to make clothing for the family and wards, and once spent twelve days there laboring with two servants on garments for four different ladies [503]. Just as Arran’s family was housed in more than one location, his extensive wardrobe was also located in more than one place. The word “wardrobe,” now a general term for a collection of clothing, was in the sixteenth century a more precise term delineating the store of clothing and textiles for a person or family as well as the physical location in which they were kept. As might be expected, the Regent’s wardrobe included his personal clothing and precious textiles, and these fabrics were sometimes granted to members of his immediate family to make their most elaborate clothing. The phrase “gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe” indicated a piece of fabric given from his personal store rather than purchased through the treasury. In addition to clothing and textiles, the wardrobe included bed linens, cushions, hangings, and other items. The main store seems to have been at Hamilton and was administered by Malcolm Gourlay and John Kirkcaldy (who often dealt with the non-clothing items). Malcolm Gourlay had been a tailor charged with making clothing for James V’s household and textile furnishings such as cushions for the king himself, and he continued on at the beginning of the regency as both a tailor and something of a factor, arranging for the transport of various items. By 71

Coffers were generally wooden chests with rounded tops, while mails (translated here as trunks) could be either boxes or bags, often made of leather. Hayward, “Packing,” 8, and OED, s.v. “mail, n.2.1.a.” 72 This was probably a flat textile container meant to be folded once filled with shirts – something like a modern garment bag but smaller.



Speci alt y G armen ts, Tr ansport, and Cl e anin g 143

May 1544 he was keeper of the wardrobe and in July 1545 was described as a groom of the chamber for Arran.73 By 1547, Robert Gourlay had joined Malcolm as a groom and in the later regency traveled with Arran to take care of necessities for “his grace’s own chamber.” Andrew Gourlay was also a servant in the wardrobe, but he appears fairly late in the regency and may have been a younger relative. One of the responsibilities of the gentlemen of the wardrobe was to care for the Regent’s clothing, properly storing and cleaning it. Garments were generally folded in coffers or chests rather than hung, as evidenced by the twenty-four ells of bleached linen cloth that were purchased “to lay between the folds of the gowns and fine clothes in the wardrobe” [20]. When Arran’s daughter Barbara received items made of cloth of gold and silver, she also received white fabric for this purpose [452]. King James V had similar arrangements, using paper instead of cloth,74 and the keepers of Henry VIII’s wardrobe interleaved precious clothing with buckram in order to protect it.75 For cleaning of non-linen items, numerous sponges and a few linen rubbing cloths were provided to the servants of the immediate family. Only linen underclothes were launderable in the sense of immersing garments in water with soap and agitation. Any other item of clothing, including those such as doublets that might be made of linen canvas, were more likely to be spot-cleaned with a sponge and rubbed dry with a cloth.76 Only a few payments to laundresses, who would have taken linens for cleaning, appear in the regency Accounts.77 A few grants of clothes to them are also included, and these were quite valuable, as they approached or exceeded the payment for a year’s washing [clothes in 15, 467, and 489 may be compared to the payment in 10]. One payment for cleaning was clearly ad hoc rather than sent to the usual laundress: Two items regarding the cleaning and quarantining of clothing follow a section detailing expenses during the time when the dowager queen was suspected of having “the pest” (possibly bubonic plague) and she and her ladies in waiting and maidens of the chamber were moved out of caution [418, below].

73

Item to ane wyf þat clengit þair clathis— xxxiiij s

Item, to a wife that cleaned their clothes, 34s.

Item to þe wyf of /m/ Jhonne thornetownnes logeing with quhome þai war vj dayes efter þai war clengit—xxij s vj d

Item, to the wife of Master John Thorntown’s lodging with whom they were 6 days after they were cleaned, 22s 6d.

Item to þat wyffis seruand—v s [418]

Item, to that wife’s servant, 5s.

Paul, Accounts, 8:291, 385. Marshall, “Kingis Grace,” 18. 75 Hayward, Dress, 147. 76 For an analysis of spot-cleaning recipes from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, see Drea Leed, “‘Ye Shall Have It Cleane’: Textile Cleaning Techniques in Renaissance Europe,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 2 (2006): 101–20. 77 Ibid., 107: an image of laundresses from the 1530s. 74

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CONCLU SION Given the centrality of weddings and funerals as cultural practices in Western Europe, it is not surprising that these occasions prompted relatively high spending. Individuals involved were given grants of much more valuable items than would normally be the case even when the occasion itself did not directly reflect on the Regent or his family. Those weddings and funerals that were connected with the Hamiltons or the Regent as a political figure garnered some of the most extravagant spending in the regency Accounts. Livery, too, reflected on the status of the Regent, and therefore warranted a certain amount of investment. This may be thought of as a working uniform rather than as clothing, and its characteristics and value were directly related to the Regent’s attempt to maintain his authority rather than to the personality or preferences of the wearers. Military clothing was much more practical, but even so, certain items betray how important the proper appearance was, especially to the Regent himself. His opulent velvet-covered jack set with gilt nail heads was more than six times the price of the simpler one given to his youngest brother. Details in the Accounts regarding the care and transport of clothing and garments for special occasions and military use give insight into the daily habits of sixteenth-century Scotland as well as cultural practices, traditions, and practical measures surrounding marriage, death, and war. Most of these habits and practices were very comparable with those in nearby countries, lending support to the idea of an aristocratic commonality of culture and fashion.

Part II

Wardrobe Biographies

Chapter 4

James Hamilton: Earl of Arran, Duke of Châtellerault, and Lord Governor of Scotland

L

ike everything else in his life, the Regent’s wardrobe choices reflected the realities of constant conflict and the demands on him to negotiate with both England and France in an attempt to keep Scotland independent. Though his regency was relatively brief, James Hamilton seems to have made the most of it when it came to his wardrobe. Compared to the subsequent regency of Marie de Guise, Hamilton’s expenditures on clothing for himself and others are rather astonishing in scale. In terms of the quantity of garments, the Regent’s wardrobe can only be compared to other heads of state. He received new clothing in 102 of the 108 months for which accounts detailing purchases for him and his immediate family survive. Via the national treasury, he acquired fifteen gowns and night gowns, sixty coats, forty-three cloaks (many of which formed a matching set with a coat), forty-six doublets, forty-eight pairs of thighs of hose, thirty-five pairs of legs of hose, dozens of pairs of shoes, and many other items. He also took charge of the late king’s “Palace, treasure, jewels, garments, horse, and plate.”1 Some of this was dispersed to the king’s family (see Appendix 1), but some the Regent kept for his own use [58, below]. Item þe xxx day of nouember for half ane quarter of blak satyng, half ane quarter crammesy sating and half ane quarter quhyte sating to eik þe syde semys of thre doublattis quhilkis war þe kingis gracis of before—xx s

  1

Item, the 30th day of November, for ⅛ ell of black satin, ⅛ ell of crimson satin, and ⅛ ell of white satin, to enlarge the side seams of the doublets which were previously the king’s grace’s, 20s.

David Franklin, The Scottish Regency of the Earl of Arran: A Study in the Failure of Anglo-Scottish Relations, Studies in British History 35 (Lewiston, NY: Edwin Mellen, 1995), 11.

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Item to þe broudstar for his laubourris maid vpon þe saiddis doublattis—iij li vj s

Item, to the embroiderer for his labors made on the said doublets, £3 6s.

Item for sewing gold and syluer for sewing on of þe pasmentis of certane þe kingis gracis habulȝeamentis—xxix s [58]

Item, for gold and silver thread, for sewing on of the passementeries of certain of the king’s grace’s garments, 29s.

For the Lord Governor, it was important to maintain the appearance of a head of state. Not only was he next in line for the throne after the young Mary, it was expected that if she lived to adolescence, she might marry into the royal house of either England or France and thus effectively be removed from the governance of Scotland.2 Arran’s regency could have stretched on past the day she reached her majority had events fallen out differently, and it was in his best interest to be seen visibly fulfilling the role of the ruler. This need was especially great early in his tenure, not only because his regency was contested,3 but also because he was rumored to be short of money.4 Not an experienced statesman, he was probably only in his mid-twenties at the outset of his tenure.5 This explains why more than half of the clothing-related entries during the regency are for him personally. He took a personal interest in constructing his image, as is made clear by several entries, including one from 1546 concerning a jack (a piece of torso armor) that he had re-covered in purple velvet because he was not satisfied with the covering of purple taffeta that had just been applied [321] and another from 1553 regarding a “gentill man send to my lorde governour being in Linlithqw, witht ane exampill of tannye dalmes, to se gif his grace thoucht the same ganand to be him ane nycht goun” [gentleman sent to my lord governor, being in Linlithgow, with an example of tawny damask, to see if his grace thought the same suitable to be a night gown for him; 804]. In terms of the opulence of the garments, however, the clothing that the Regent ordered seems for the most part less extravagant than might be expected of a ruler. To be sure, it was made from good-quality wools, silks, and linens and often trimmed rather than plain. However, when compared to the inventory of the late king’s wardrobe, which contained many garments of cloth of gold bedecked with gold and enameled buttons and heavily trimmed with gold and silver passementerie, fur, and embroidery,6 and a letter summarizing part of the Regent’s wife’s similarly lavish wardrobe (see Appendix 2), the clothing that the Regent ordered via the treasury seems for the most part rather modest in character. It could be that because half of his regency was spent at war, his clothing needs were largely for items that could serve on the battlefield, on the road, or in other similar circumstances. Indeed, the Accounts record a servant traveling to meet him with clothes to replace some that were spoiled in the disastrous defeat of the Scots at the battle of Pinkie Cleugh [332]. Arran must have felt quite bereft of wardrobe, as he also bought cloth for new hose directly   2

Arran also put forward a plan to marry her to his eldest son; Merriman, Rough Wooings, 135, 161–62. Franklin, Regency, 9–13 and 124–28. See also Merriman, Rough Wooings, 89, for an overview of the forces arrayed against him.   4 Merriman, Rough Wooings, 82, 93.   5 Franklin, Regency, 8.   6 See Harrison, Inventories, 12–18ff. for examples.   3



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 1 49

after the battle [328]. He was under attack not just by the English, but also sometimes by protesting Scots. In one instance, he was forced to duck through a church to escape a group of “wyffes [who] war lyke to have stoned hym to death.”7 The exigencies of war did not divert him from care of his wardrobe, however. While mustering thousands of troops in June and July 1547,8 he found time to order several items of clothing and to make sure his furs were properly maintained [310, 314, 316, 318, 319]. For certain events, more elaborate clothing was needed. In March 1542/43, he ordered a cap of state and a robe to wear in parliament, which Amy Blakeway suggests were for his inauguration as regent.9 It seems likely that he also wore this ensemble for the coronation of Mary, Queen of Scots, in September 1543. His splendid outfit of grey satin, taffeta, and velvet trimmed with silk and gold passementerie that appears in the Accounts for May and June 1549 [473, 474] may have been made in preparation for the arrival of the new French envoy, Paul de la Barthe, Sieur de Thermes, in late June.10 Such a monochromatic ensemble recalls Hall’s description of Henry VIII and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who both appeared at Mass with “all their apparell white except their bonettes”11 when Charles visited England. Similarly, three French captains wore white satin to present offers of assistance to Scotland in late 1547.12 When Marie de Guise’s brother Claude de Lorraine visited from France in 1550,13 the Regent had clothing sent to Dunfermline [591] in preparation to host a welcoming banquet there [594]. Although the clothing is not described, the tenor of the occasion and the fact that the Regent felt it necessary to have certain items shipped from one place to another suggests that this clothing was probably from the more ostentatious end of his wardrobe. In a few instances, it was Christmas rather than politics that required certain items of clothing. In one year he had more shirts sent [247], and in another he ordered bonnets and a doublet [420]. The bonnets evidently were not finished in time [428]. No doubt his need to “look the part” had a heavy influence on his personal taste in clothes during the regency. Arran seems to have preferred tawny, grey, and black, as these predominate among items of his wardrobe with identifiable colors. A few garments were white, red, and brown, and isolated notes of violet, blue, and purple appeared as well. Among men of his class, time period, and nationality, a preponderance of neutrals was not unusual, but it may also have been that he wished to make himself appear to be a man of serious mind and authority despite his relative youth.   7

Bain, Calendar, 34. Ibid., 8–9.   9 Blakeway, Regency, 56.  10 Gervase Phillips, “Scotland in the Age of the Military Revolution,” in A Military History of Scotland, ed. Edward M. Spiers, Jeremy A. Crang, and Matthew J. Strickland (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2012), 201–2, and Æ. J. G. MacKay, ed., The Historie and Chronicles of Scotland from the Slauchter of King James the First to the Ane Thousand Fyve Hundreith Thrie Scoir Fytein Zeir, vol. 2 (Edinburgh: William Blackwood and Sons, 1899), 110 n. 2, 426.  11 Hall, Chronicle, 640.  12 Bain, Calendar, 55.  13 Joseph Michaud and Jean Joseph François Poujoulat, eds., Nouvelle Collection des Mémoires pour servir a l’histoire de France, vol. 6 (Paris: Firmin Didot Frères, 1839), 39.   8

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His gowns (including night gowns) were all of silk—velvet, taffeta, satin, damask, and grosgrain—aside from the two mourning gowns, which were of wool. The bulk of his wardrobe, however, was of a more everyday character and consisted largely of coats and cloaks (often in a matched set), doublets, and hose. His many coats ran the gamut from plain frieze with no listed decoration to leather to figured velvet trimmed with passementerie of silver and black silk. They might also be taffeta, plain velvet, damask, grosgrain, or one of several different qualities of wool. The variety of his coats speaks to the versatility of this universal male garment, which could serve a multitude of hypothetical situations: on the battlefield (plain wool [278]), on horseback (wool with velvet trim [350]), in council (velvet with gold passementerie [512]), and for formal state occasions (black damask with a matching gown, both trimmed with fine black velvet [725]). Forty percent of his coats came with a matching cloak, but the coats with matching cloaks were exclusively wool, so silk coats were either worn alone, with a non-matching wool cloak, or with gowns instead of cloaks. All of the Regent’s cloaks were wool except for a riding cloak of grosgrain that came with a matching doublet, reinforcing the idea that cloaks were considered to be largely utilitarian in character and were worn more for warmth than display. Arran did, however, have several cloaks trimmed with satin or velvet, occasionally in a contrasting color. Cloaks of his were stolen on three separate occasions [185, 234, 293], suggesting that he tended to take them off indoors and forget them. This is perhaps supported by one record [185], which specifies that the cloak was stolen from his advocate’s lodgings.14 Arran’s doublets were made of either canvas or silk, demonstrating that some (of canvas) were purely a serviceable way to hold up his hose or his harness, while the rest (of silk) were perhaps meant to be seen through the open neck of his coat. The small, mysterious group of canvas false doublets in the Accounts were all ordered for the Regent [592, 607, and 845, below]. They required far less fabric than his other canvas doublets during the same years. Item ane elne and ane quartar canves to be ane fals doublet but slevis to his grace—v s [592]

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to be a false doublet without sleeves for his grace, 5s.

Item vj quarterris canves to be ane fals doublat to his graces self—vj s [607]

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to be a false doublet for his grace’s self, 6s.

Item tua elnis small canves to be ane fals doublat to his grace þe elne iiij s Summa— viij s [845]

Item, 2 ells of fine canvas to be a false doublet for his grace, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

These follow an order to enlarge a doublet for the Regent, and in the midst of them, a pattern of a doublet on canvas was sent “to remane with my lord governouris tailȝeour” [626], though he had supplied many previous doublets. These clues suggest a possible interpretation of the false doublets: They may have been girdles for the burgeoning figure of the Regent.

 14

An advocate in this context was the equivalent of a barrister or lawyer.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 15 1

The single instance of a corselet [717, below] may or may not belong in the same category with doublets. It performs the same function, but the listing gives few enough details that it is not clear how a corselet would differ from a doublet. It may in fact be a false doublet or harness doublet by another name (see pp. 126–7). Like a harness doublet, the corselet below functioned as a base layer to which points could be attached. These could support either garments, like hose, or pieces of armor. Item tway elnis canves to be ane corslett to beir his graces poynttis price of þe elne v s Summa—x s [717]

Item, 2 ells of canvas to be a corselet to bear his grace’s points, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Arran’s silk doublets were most commonly made of satin, but there were some of taffeta, grosgrain, and taffeta of grosgrain. A few were ordered with matching or coordinating hose [383, 435, 473, 498, 512], and two were part of an entire suite of doublet, coat, gown, and hose [474, 826]. A handful were allowed passementerie for trimming, but most were plain. One had half a pound of stuffing for the sleeves [498]. In contrast to his doublets, most of his hose were made of wool, though a fair sampling of silk thighs of hose (all velvet except for one example of satin) punctuates the list. Many thighs of hose, whether of silk or wool, were trimmed with taffeta or velvet and had taffeta for “drawing forth,” indicating that they were paned hose. Although it is tempting to interpret the single pair of “whole hose” [194] as the old style, which were fitted from foot to waist, they clearly have taffeta assigned for “drawing forth.” A few examples of the older-style hose that included slashing can be found on wall paintings in one of Arran’s houses (figs. 12 and 13) as well as in artwork from Germany and Flanders, so it is possible that these are what was meant, but the amount of taffeta seems too large for that type of hose.15 Most of the shirts and other linens for men in the Accounts were for Arran. Many had no indication of decoration and were probably plain linen. Others were embroidered with gold or silver [470 and 494, below] or decorated with passementerie [617, below]. Of all the men’s shirts in the Accounts, only the Regent’s were embellished.

 15

Item xm Maii to margaret creichtoun ane doubill hanke of sewing gold to ane sark of my lorde gouernoures price þairof—xxxij s

Item, May 10th, to Margaret Crichton, a double hank of sewing gold for a shirt of my lord governor’s, price thereof 32s.

Item to hir mair half ane hanke of sewing siluer—xvj s

Item, to her also, half a hank of sewing silver, 16s.

Item mair ane vnce of sewing silk—v s [470]

Item, also, an ounce of sewing silk, 5s.

See, for example, f. 23v ( June) of the Golf Book by Simon Bening (see Chapter 1, note 28) and plates 37 and 40 of The Triumph of Maximilian I by Hans Burgkmair, before 1519, reproduced in Stanley Appelbaum, ed. and trans., The Triumph of Maximilian I: 137 Woodcuts by Hans Burgkmair and Others (New York: Dover, 1964). Most images of this type of hose are earlier than the “whole hose” in the Accounts, which appeared in 1546.

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Item send w t champnay messinger to margaret criechtoun to my lord gouernoures sarkis tua half hankis of gold price xvj s—xxxij s

Item, sent with Champnay, messenger, to Margaret Crichton for my lord governor’s shirts, two half hanks of gold, price 16s; total: 32s.

Item siclike send wt him half ane hank of siluer—xviij s [494]

Item, similarly sent with him, half a hank of silver, 18s.

Item vij elnis quhite pasmentis to be put on þe saidis sarkis price of þe elne iiij d Summa—ij s iiij d [617]

Item, 7 ells of white passementerie to be put on the said shirts, price of each ell 4d; total: 2s 4d.

As with most small accessories for men, the majority of the points in the Accounts were for the Regent. He ordered around 750 points during his tenure. For most, the color is not specified, but in at least two cases [474, 512], the points matched other parts of an ensemble. His belts and garters also sometimes formed part of an outfit [217, 302, 474, 498, 521]. Aside from a stretch in 1545–46, he almost always ordered belts and garters as a set, and he received about three sets per year. Arran’s shoes, when the material was specified, were almost always of velvet. It may be that his leather shoes were included in the bulk bills that his cordwainer tended to send, which charged a lump sum for all the shoes from the household over a specified period of time without itemizing them. Only the Regent and his sons received gloves via the Treasury. Naturally the number received by the Regent was twice that of all others combined, exceeding 130 pairs over the course of ten years, but he might have been giving some of them away as gifts.16 Arran did wear hats (though he had very few), but he more often wore bonnets, which seem to have served as a ubiquitous form of headwear at that time. He received only ten hats in comparison with thirty-nine bonnets, of which twenty-three were velvet. When a color is given, it is always black. As with his cloaks, he could not always hold on to his bonnets. One was bought for him after he lost his [72], and the son of the lord of Kilsyth was reimbursed for a bonnet that the Regent took from him, perhaps to replace his own [149]. He also apparently lost a purse with money in it in the first year of his regency.17 Though men’s purses were worn as decorative accessories in other places during this time, there are few purses for men in the regency Accounts, and it is not clear whether or not they were worn. Overall, Arran’s clothing was of fine quality though for the most part not ostentatious. Though the general circumstances of his regency may have dictated a more utilitarian cast to his wardrobe, he made up for it with an enormous quantity of items and a few truly splendid ensembles.

 16

As a point of comparison, see Landini, Moda: Cosimo, 155–56, for information on Cosimo de Medici’s gloves.  17 Paul, Accounts, 8:235.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 15 3

POLI TICA L G IFTS OF CL OTHING The Regent demonstrated his power not only through his own clothing, but also through the clothing he ordered for others. His gifts of clothes and accessories to those not dependent upon him may well have been given with an eye to shoring up the loyalty of those who might otherwise be swayed by the English, who recruited Scotsmen during the war with promises of money and lands when possible and with threats otherwise. The Earl of Argyll was one of the Regent’s supporters,18 but it may have seemed necessary to strengthen his support with generous gifts of clothing to his son, the Master of Argyll, who appears to have been in residence with the Regent between December 1548 and April 1549. He was gifted with two full formal ensembles including matching silk gowns, coats, and doublets plus hose, shoes, and a few other items [424, 464, 547]. He seems to have been a child, as the nine ells of armosene taffeta that sufficed for a gown, coat, and doublet for him was only enough for a gown and coat for the Regent [471]. As an example of items gifted to those of less exalted status, in March 1545, there is a curious entry in the Accounts for white ribbons given to men of the Merse and Teviotdale [119, below]. Item þe samyn day for thre score elnis quhyte Robanis of sylk to be disponit amang þe gentillmen of þe mers and theviotdaill eftir gevin to þame [el]nis price of þe eln[e] 19 [119]

Item, the same day, for three score ells of white ribbons of silk to be distributed among the gentlemen of the Merse and Teviotdale after given to them ells, price of each ell

This was soon after the defeat of the English at the Battle of Ancrum Moor,20 and the Merse and Teviotdale are both relatively near to the battle site, so it is possible that this was a reward or a badge of honor for their service there. If so, however, it was insufficient to keep their loyalty. At least some of those from the Merse and Teviotdale had apparently joined the English side by October 1547.21 It seems that they were not completely committed, however, because an English commander pondered the wisdom of either threatening them or supplying them with cheap food (or both) to cement their allegiance later that year22 and planned to do what he could to block them from joining the Regent’s forces in 1548.23 The Regent also devoted some resources to advancing Scotland’s relationship with France via clothing. It was in Scotland’s best interest to be seen as a cultured, sovereign nation with whom France might negotiate on more-or-less even footing rather than a poor backwater that France might acquire as a client state. Maintaining the appearance of the former rather than the latter was therefore of some political importance, so before the Regent sent three  18

Merriman, Rough Wooings, 98. The Earl was married to Arran’s full sister Helen; James Balfour Paul, The Scots Peerage (Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1904–13), 1:339.  19 These lacunae are quite large, as a portion of the manuscript is missing.  20 Paul, Accounts, 7:lxvi.  21 Bain, Calendar, 27.  22 Ibid., 32. Merriman (Rough Wooings, 359) rehearses the many battles that took place at the Merse and Teviotdale and calls the area “something of a wasteland.”  23 Bain, Calendar, 124.

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French pages home in 1543, he outfitted them in black satin doublets, grey hose with purple taffeta, grey coats, black wool cloaks, bonnets, and new shirts and gave them a fairly substantial gift of money [44]. Similarly, when he sent Master John Hamilton of Milburn to France as an envoy in 1547, a new black velvet riding cloak and doublet as well as a more practical cloak of black wool added to his consequence [337]. These examples, though small in scope, help to demonstrate the difficulties faced by the Regent as his citizenry gauged what safety their loyalty or treason might buy and his allies decided whether or not to treat with Scotland and on what terms. He had many tools with which to address these problems, and to the usual list of diplomatic and military efforts may be added personal and political gifts of clothing and accessories.

THE END OF A R R A N ’S R E GE NC Y Arran had been negotiating with the English since the beginning of his tenure, but by 1548, he was forced to ally with the French in order to maintain his nation’s security.24 This was also a victory for Marie de Guise, who of course was a proponent of “the auld alliance” with France, and a foreshadowing of her later assumption of the regency.25 During this same period, Henri II of France took steps to consolidate these gains by assuring Arran of his power as regent during the young queen’s minority, allowing him full use of the treasury, and discharging him of financial responsibility once she came to the throne.26 In fact, these assurances were in exchange for the Regent’s agreement to send Mary to the French court, which he did along with some of his own children to attend her.27 Although ostensibly guaranteeing Arran’s regency, Henri II’s real aim was to see Marie de Guise take it over, and to that end he began offering incentives to Arran. Henri had already bestowed upon Arran the honor of membership in the Order of St. Michael,28 also known more informally as the Order of the Cockle because the full formal collar was made of golden seashells representing pilgrimage.29 James V had been a member of the order,30 so Arran may have felt with some justice that membership added to his consequence as a head of state. Although in his later formal portrait Arran wore the full collar,31 for everyday  24

Franklin, Scottish Regency, 165. Ibid., 166.  26 William Fraser, ed., The Manuscripts of the Duke of Hamilton, K. T. Historical Manuscripts Commission 11, app., part 6 (London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1887), 39.  27 Both his eldest son and his middle daughter Jean went to France in 1548. Jean seems to have served as a companion for Mary, but according to Franklin, his son and heir was more of a hostage; Franklin, Scottish Regency, 171.  28 Ibid.  29 See, for example, a portrait medallion from 1547 of François I wearing his collar in Yvonne Hackenbroch, Renaissance Jewellery (London: Sotheby Parke Bernet, 1979), fig. 72. For a full description of the collar and insignia, see D’arcy Jonathan Dacre Boulton, The Knights of the Crown: The Monarchical Orders of Knighthood in Later Medieval Europe 1325–1520 (Woodbridge, UK: Boydell, 2000), 441–42.  30 Jamie Cameron, James V: The Personal Rule, 1528–1542 (Edinburgh: John Donald, 2011), 287.  31 See Arran’s portrait of 1578 in Roy Strong, The English Icon: Elizabethan and Jacobean Portraiture (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1969), fig. 93.  25



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 15 5

wear he seems to have preferred to wear the central pendant on a ribbon or a chain [146, 331, and 397, below; also 341, 441, 597, 658].32 Item þe last day of Junij for mending of ane cheinȝe of my lord gouernoris of þe ordour of þe cokill—xxij s [146]

Item, the last day of June, for mending of a chain of my lord governor’s of the Order of the Cockle, 22s.

Item vj quartares culour robanis to his graces ordoure—ij s [331]

Item, 1½ ells of colored ribbons for his grace’s order, 2s.

Item thre elnis of blak rebanis to his graces ordour—iiij s vj d [397]

Item, 3 ells of black ribbons for his grace’s order, 4s 6d.

In 1549, Henri II also awarded Arran the dukedom of Châtellerault, which had a significant income.33 This may have softened the blow of losing access to the national treasury when he eventually relinquished the regency. Arran’s power continued to wane over the next several years as Marie de Guise took a greater role in governing, all the while working to strengthen French influence in Scotland. She officially took the reins as regent in April 155434 and discharged Arran of all responsibility for the late king’s goods, which in effect meant that he did not need to account for what had happened to any of it.35 This was an important concession in his favor, since he had been altering and wearing some of James V’s wardrobe. The Accounts from Arran’s regency end with September 1553. Until the end of the existing records, he continued to spend as much as ever on clothing for himself and his family, friends, and connections. In August 1553, he ordered a matched set of gown, coat, doublet, thighs, and legs of hose in tawny grosgrain, satin, and velvet, with a fine velvet bonnet to top off the ensemble [826]. The next month’s grant includes a very similar gown lined with fur and a few other items. It is tempting to speculate that he knew that his access to the treasury would soon end, as these kinds of relatively lavish clothes are rare within his large but fairly plain wardrobe. Arran has been criticized for overspending from the nation’s purse,36 and though the largest percentage of his expenditure was for the benefit of his own household,37 his (and Scotland’s) financial situation was complicated by many factors including the additional expenses of war and the lack of income from Marie de Guise’s dower lands, which had been granted from the Crown at her marriage and would not revert to it until her death.38 In fact it appears that the Regent and his family were supporting the war effort with substantial monies from their own coffers: £4,400 from 1543 to 1546.39 It could be that despite the high number of garments he ordered, their relatively plain and practical character represented his attempt at thrift.  32

The chain was allowed by the statutes of the order, and a ribbon was common for other knightly orders. Boulton, Knights, 482.  33 Franklin, Scottish Regency, 169.  34 Ibid., 178.  35 Fraser, Manuscripts, 40.  36 Blakeway, Regency, 89.  37 Ibid., tables 2a and 2b.  38 See Blakeway’s excellent analysis of regency finances (Regency, 89–126) and Merriman’s comparison of Scotland’s and England’s revenues (Rough Wooings, 95).  39 Blakeway, Regency, 91.

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THE R EG ENT ’S CL OTHING A summary of the clothing the Regent received in the Accounts follows the transcriptions and translations below. January 1542/43 Item deliuerit to him to be ane spanȝe cloke to his grace thre elnis thre qrteris parys blak, price of the elne xl s Summa—vij li x s [2]

Item, delivered to him [Alexander Foster] to be a Spanish cloak for his grace, 3¾ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £7 10s.

February 1542/43 In the first the x day of februar deliuerit to thomas mureleis to be schone to his grace quarter ½ quarter frenche blak, price þairof—xv s

First, the 10th day of February, delivered to Thomas Myrreleis to be shoes for his grace, ⅜ ell of French black, price thereof 15s.

Item deliuerit to him to be pantonis to his grace half ane elne blak velvet, price þairof—xxviij s

Item, delivered to him to be slippers [or overshoes] for his grace, ½ ell of black velvet, price thereof 28s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne the pantonis quarter half quarter dimegrane, price þairof—x s vj d [11]

Item, delivered to him to line the slippers [or overshoes], ⅜ ell of demigrain, price thereof 10s 6d.

March 1542/43 In the first the vj day of marche deliuerit to alexander foster to be ane kaip of stait and ane kirtill to my lord gouernour agane the parliament xiiij elnis ½ elne ½ quarter frenche browne of þe seill, price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxvij li xv s ix d

First, the 6th day of March, delivered to Alexander Foster to be a cap of state and a kirtle for my lord governor to wear in parliament, 14⅝ ells of French brown of the seal [of Rouen?], price of each ell 38s; total: £27 15s 9d.

Item deliuerit to lyne the forebreistis þairof thre elnis thre quarteris quhite teffites of Janis, price of þe elne xv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, delivered to line the fronts thereof, 3¾ ells of white taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 15s; total: 56s 3d.

Item deliuerit tobe ane belt þairto ane elne purpuir teffites of Jenis, price—xv s [19]

Item, delivered to be a belt thereto, one ell of purple taffeta of Genoa, price 15s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 157

Item deliuerit to him to lay betuix þe faldis of the gownis and fyne claithis in þe gardrop xxiiij elnis blechit bertane clayt price of þe elne iiij s iiij d Summa—iiij li [20]

Item, delivered to him [ John Kirkcaldy] to lay between the folds of the gowns and fine clothes in the wardrobe, 24 ells of bleached Bretagne cloth, price of each ell 4s 4d.; total: £4.40

Item deliuerit to him to be his grace ane belt and gertennis vij quarteris blak teffites of Janis price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxvj s iiij d

Item, delivered to him [ John Kirkcaldy] to be a belt and garters for his grace, 1¾ ells of black taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 15s; total: 26s 4d.41

Item deliuerit to him to be schone to his grace ane elne blak veluet, price þairof—lvj s [21]

Item, delivered to him to be shoes for his grace, an ell of black velvet, price thereof 56s.

Item gevin to Johnne clerk Jakmakar for ane Jak deliuerit be him to my lord gouernour— viij li [22]

Item, given to John Clerk, jackmaker, for a jack delivered by him to my lord governor, £8.

April 1543

 40

In the first the viij day of aprile deliuerit to dauid hammyltoune to be naipkinnis to my lord gouernour ane elne of cammorage clayt price þairof—xxij s

First, the 8th day of April, delivered to David Hamilton to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, an ell of cambric cloth, price thereof, 22s.

Item þe x day of þe said monet deliuerit to him twa elnis of holland clay t, price of þe elne xj s Summa—xxij s

Item, the 10th day of the said month, delivered to him two ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 11s; total: 22s.

Item þe samin day deliuerit to Johnne kirkcaldy to be gertennis to his grace ½ elne quhite teffites of cord, price—x s

Item, the same day, delivered to John Kirkcaldy to be garters for his grace ½ ell of white taffeta of cord, price 10s.

Item deliuerit to alexander foster to be ane skin coit twa fyne marykin skynnis, price of þe pece xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, delivered to Alexander Foster to be a skin coat, two fine Moroccan skins,42 price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item gevin for pasmentis of gold and silk to geit þe samin viz twa dowbill hankis of sewing gold, price of þe hank xxiiij s Summa— xlviij s [27]

Item, given for passementerie of gold and silk to trim the same, that is, two double hanks of sewing gold, price of each hank 24s; total: 48s.

The total should be £5 4s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 3s 4d instead of 4s 4d.  41 The total should be 26s 3d.  42 This was most likely goatskin. DSL, s.v. “Marykin.”

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Item deliuerit to alexander foster to be ane riding cloke to my lord gouernour thre elnis thre quarteris colour deroy, price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iij li vij s vj d [29]

Item, delivered to Alexander Foster to be a riding cloak for my lord governor, 3¾ ells of color de roy, price of each ell 18s; total: £3 7s 6d.

May 1543 In þe first þe ferd day of maij deliuerit to dauid hammiltoun of brvmehill to be gertennis to my lord gouernour ane elne blak teffites of cord price þairof—xx s

First, the third day of May, delivered to David Hamilton of Broomhill to be garters for my lord governor, an ell of black taffeta of cord, price thereof 20s.

…

…

Item deliuerit to thomas mereleis to be schone to my lord gouernour ane elne fyne blak veluet price—iij li

Item, delivered to Thomas Merelais to be shoes for my lord governor, an ell of fine black velvet, price £3.

Item deliuerit to him to be schone to his grace quarter elne ane naill quhite veluet price þairof—xx s vj d [40]

Item, delivered to him to be shoes for his grace, 5⁄16 ell white velvet, price thereof 20s 6d.

September 1543 Item þe xxiiij day of september for foure elnis ane half and half ane quarter of spanȝe freis to be ane cloke and cote to my lord gouernour pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xv s ix d

Item, the 24th day of September, for 4⅝ ells of Spanish frieze, to be a cloak and coat for my lord governor, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 15s 9d.

Item for gray and buckram to lyne þe said cote—xii s

Item, for gray and buckram to line the said coat, 12s.

Item for ane elne of blak stemmyng to be tua pair of laichis of hois to my lord gouernour price þairof—xlv s [48]

Item, for an ell of black stemming to be two pairs of legs of hose for my lord governor, price thereof, 45s.

Item for fyve quarteris bukram to be ane pair of sockis to my lord gouernour price thairof—v s

Item, for 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for my lord governor, price thereof 5s.

Item ane elne of blak welwet to be schone to his grace pryce thairof—iij li [50]

Item, an ell of black velvet to be shoes for his grace, price thereof £3.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 159

November 1543 Item coft to be ane nyt goun to his grace xv elnis tannye dalmes pryce of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxj li x s

Item, bought to be a night gown for his grace, 15 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 42s; total: £31 10s.

Item thre quarteris tanny welwet to be ane walt to þe said goun pryce—iij li

Item, ¾ ell of tawny velvet to trim the said gown, price £3.

Item thre quarteris bukram to lyne þe nek of þe said goun pryce—iiij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of buckram to line the neck of the said gown, price 4s 6d.

Item fyve quarteris trailze to be his grace ane pair of sockis pryce thairof—vj s ix d [55]

Item, 1¼ ells of trailye to be a pair of socks for his grace, price thereof 6s 9d.

Item for ane quarter and half ane quarter of welwet to be heich schone to my lord gouernour pryce thairof—xxv s ix d

Item, for ⅜ ell of velvet to be high shoes for my lord governor, price thereof, 25s 9d.

…

…

Item þe tent day of nouember for half ane quarter welwet to couer ane pair of laich schone to my lord gouernour—viij s ix d [57]

Item, the tenth day of November, for ⅛ ell of velvet to cover a pair of low shoes for my lord governor, 8s 9d.

Item þe xxx day of nouember for half ane quarter of blak satyng, half ane quarter crammesy sating and half ane quarter quhyte sating to eik þe syde semys of thre doublattis quhilkis war þe kingis gracis of before—xx s

Item, the 30th day of November, for ⅛ ell of black satin, ⅛ ell of crimson satin, and ⅛ ell of white satin, to enlarge the side seams of the doublets which were previously the king’s grace’s, 20s.

Item to þe broudstar for his laubourris maid vpon þe saiddis doublattis—iij li vj s

Item, to the embroiderer for his labors made on the said doublets, £3 6s.

Item for sewing gold and syluer for sewing on of þe pasmentis of certane þe kingis gracis habulȝeamentis—xxix s

Item, for gold and silver thread, for sewing on of the passementeries of certain of the king’s grace’s garments, 29s.

Item for stemmyng blak and quhyte to be my Lord gouernour foure pair of hois—iij li ix s [58]

Item, for stemming, black and white, to be four pairs of hose for my lord governor, £3 9s.

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December 1543

 43

Item þe fourtene day of December half an elne of taffate of cord to be gartanis to my lord gouernour price thairof—xj s

Item, the fourteenth day of December, half an ell of taffeta of cord to be garters for my lord governor, price thereof 11s.

Item þe xv day of December for ane elne of taffate of cord to be belt and typpat to his grace price þairof—xxij s

Item, the 15th day of December, for an ell of taffeta of cord to be a belt and tippet for his grace, price thereof 22s.

Item þe samyn day for tuelf elnis holland claith to be sarkis to my lord gouernour prcye of þe elne ix s Summa—v li xij s

Item, the same day, for 12 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor, price of each ell 9s; total: £5 12s.43

Item for sewing of tua of þir sarkis—x s

Item, for sewing of two of these shirts, 10s.

Item for ane vnce of silk to sew þe thrid sark and sewing thairof—xvij s [63]

Item, for an ounce of silk to sew the third shirt, and sewing thereof, 17s.

Item þe samyn day sex quarteris taffate of genis to be beltis to my lord gouernour pryce þairof xxij s vj d

Item, the same day, 1½ ells of taffeta of Genoa, to be belts for my lord governor, price thereof 22s 6d.

Item þe samyn day for foure elnis round holand claith to be nyt courches to my lord gouernour price of þe elne vj s Summa—­ xxiiij s

Item, the same day, for 4 ells of heavy Holland cloth, to be night kerchiefs for my lord governor, price of each ell 6s; total: 24s.

Item ye xxiij day of December for thre elnis of fyne cammarage claith to be napkynnis to his grace price of þe elne xxij s Summa—[iij li vj s]44

Item, the 23rd day of December, for three ells of fine cambric cloth to be handkerchiefs for his grace, price of each ell 22s; total: [£3 6s].

Item for making of ane Jak to his grace— [xxix s]45 [65]

Item, for making of a jack for his grace,

The total should be £5 8s. This portion of the manuscript is missing, but the total is easily calculated and was included in Paul’s transcription.  45 This portion of the manuscript is missing. This total was taken from Paul’s transcription, but it is not clear whether the page was complete when he saw it or if this was his guess at a probable total.  44



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 161

January 1543/44

 46

Item þe x day of Januar for ane elne of stemmyng to be ane pair of hois to my lord gouernour—xl s

Item, the 10th day of January, for an ell of stemming, to be a pair of hose for my lord governor, 40s.

Item twa elnis and ane quarter of taffate to draw furth þe samyn pryce of þe elne xviij s Summa—xl s vj d

Item, 2¼ ells of taffeta to draw forth the same, price of each ell 18s; total: 40s 6d.

Item for lynnyng and schering of þe said hois—v s iiij d

Item, for lining and shearing of the said hose, 5s 4d.

Item for ane harnes doublat of canves to his grace—xvij s

Item, for a harness doublet of canvas for his grace, 17s.

Item þe samyn day boucht foure elnis and ane half and half ane quarter fyne Spanȝe freis to be ane cote and cloke to his grace pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—[viij li xv s ix d]46

Item, the same day, bought 4⅝ ells of fine Spanish frieze to be a coat and cloak for his grace, price of each ell 38s; total: [£8 15s 9d.]

Item for bukrem and gray to lyne þis cote— xij s?47

Item, for buckram and gray to line this coat, 12s.?

Item for ane dosoun buttonis of sylk to þe said cote—viij s

Item, for 12 buttons of silk for the said coat, 8s.

Item for thre elnis taffate of cord to be ane jurnay cote to his grace pryce of þe elne xx s Summa—iij li

Item, for 3 ells of taffeta of cord to be a journey coat for his grace, price of each ell 20s; total: £3.

Item for bukrem to lyne þe samyn—vij s vj d [69]

Item, for buckram to line the same, 7s 6d.

This portion of the manuscript is missing, but the total is easily calculated and was included in Paul’s transcription.  47 The portion of the manuscript with the price is substantially degraded, so this total may be incorrect. Paul did not include this line item in his transcription.

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March 1543/44 Item þe fyft day of marche for sewing of thre sarkis to my lord gouernour—xxv s

Item, the fifth day of March, for sewing of three shirts for my lord governor, 25s.

Item þe xj day of marche to be my lord gouernour ane pair of gartanis and ane belt fyve quarterris taffate of Genis pryce of þe elne þairof xviij s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, the 11th day of March, to be a pair of garters and a belt for my lord governor, 1¼ ells of taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell thereof 18s; total: 22s 6d.

Item þe xxiij day of marche to draw furth ane pair of hois of my lord gouernoris stekat wt purpour welwot þe welwot gottin furth of þe tresour hous wtin þe castell of Edinburght twa elne and ane half blew taffate of Genis price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xlv s

Item, the 23rd day of March, to draw forth a pair of hose of my lord governor’s, which are sewn with purple velvet, the velvet gotten forth from the treasure house within the castle of Edinburgh, 2½ ells of blue taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 18s; total: 45s.

Item þe xxviij day of marche for ane Jak to my lord gouernour—vj li xiij s iiij d [75]

Item, the 28th day of March, for a jack for my lord governor, £6 13s 4d.

April 1544 Item the xvj day of apprile half ane elne and half ane quarter quhyte welwot to be schone to my lord gouernour price thairof—xxx s

Item, the 16th day of April, ⅝ ell of white velvet to be shoes for my lord governor, price thereof, 30s.

…

…

Item þe xxvij day of apprile for ane elne of blak welwot to be schone and pantonis to my lord gouernour price thairof iiij li [80]

Item, the 27th day of April, for an ell of black velvet to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for my lord governor, price thereof £4.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 163

July 1544 Item þe xxj day of Julii to be ane pair of gartanis and ane typpat to my lord gouernour ane elne of taffate of cord price—xx s

Item, the 21st day of July, to be a pair of garters and a tippet for my lord governor, an ell of taffeta of cord, price 20s.

48

Item þe xxv day of Julii for half ane elne and ane nale of stemmyng to be schankis to ane pair of hois of my lord gouernoris price þairof—49

Item, the 25th day of July, for 9⁄16 ell of stemming to be legs for a pair of hose of my lord governor’s, price thereof

Item for schering of þe saidis schankis of hois and sylk to sew þe guscheattis of þame—viij [s vj d]50

Item, for shearing of the said shanks of hose, and silk to sew the gussets of them, 8

Item þe xxviij day of Julii ane elne of claith of mawchlanis to be schankis to his gracis hois price þairof—xlvj s [87]

Item, the 28th day of July, an ell of cloth of Mechelen to be legs for his grace’s hose, price thereof 46s.

August 1544 Item þe xxj day of August for ane couerring of ane steill bonet to my lord Gouernor— xviij s

Item, the 21st day of August for a covering of a steel helm for my lord Governor, 18s.

Item thre quarterris and ane half taffate of cord to be belt gartanis and typpat to his grace pryce þairof—xix s iij d [89]

Item, ⅞ ell of taffeta of cord to be belt, garters, and tippet for his grace, price thereof 19s 3d.

October 1544 Item þe samyn day to Jhonne clerk Jak maker for mending of ane Jak of my lord gouernoris—xxij s [96]

Item, the same day, to John Clerk, jack maker, for mending of a jack of my lord governor’s, 22s.

November 1544 Item þe vj day of nouember to besse murray for thre sarkis to my lord gouernour—vj li [97]

 48

Item, the 6th day of November, to Bessie Murray for three shirts for my lord governor, £6.

This portion of the manuscript is missing. This portion of the manuscript is missing.  50 This portion of the manuscript is missing. This total was taken from Paul’s transcription, but it is not clear whether the page was complete when he saw it or if this was his guess at a probable total. It is likely that the page was incomplete, as the previous total is not given.  49

164

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Item for ane pair of sockis of bukram to his grace—viij s

Item, for a pair of socks of buckram for his grace, 8s.

…

…

for ane pair of gluvis 51—ij s

for a pair of gloves , 2s.

[Item] boucht to his grace thre dosoun of silken pointtis price þairof—vj s

[Item,] bought for his grace 36 silk points, price thereof 6s.

Item for bukram to be pwichis to ane arrayit cote of sating of his gracis—xij d

Item, for buckram to be pockets for a striped? coat of satin of his grace’s, 12d.

Item half ane elne of taffate of cord to be gartanis to my lord gouernour—xij s [98]

Item, half an ell of taffeta of cord to be garters for my lord governor, 12s.

Item to ane boy send furth of Edinburt wt ane pair of hois to his grace being in Striuiling—iij s [102]

Item, for a boy sent forth from Edinburgh with a pair of hose for his grace, being in Stirling, 3s.

December 1544 Item þe xxiij of December ane elne of blak welwot to be schone to my lord gouernour price—iiij li [103]

Item, the 23rd of December, an ell of black velvet to be shoes for my lord governor, price £4.

January 1544/45

 51

Item þe x day of Januar half ane elne of taffate of cord to be gartanis to my lord gouernour—xij s

Item, the 10th day of January, half an ell of taffeta of cord to be garters to my lord governor, 12s.

Item þe xiiij day of Januar ane typpat to his gracis bonet contenand quarter and half quarter price—ix s

Item, the 14th day of January, a tippet for his grace’s bonnet containing ⅜ of an ell, price 9s.

Item for tua skynnis ekit to þe furring of my lord gouernoris nycht gown & mending þairof—xx s [109]

Item, for two skins to add to the furring of my lord governor’s night gown and mending thereof, 20s.

These portions of the manuscript are missing. Paul did not include any of the line items in this record in his transcription.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 16 5

March 1544/45

 52

Item for tua sarkis to my lord gouernour— iiij li

Item, for two shirts for my lord governor, £4.

Item xijto marchij foure elnis holland claith to be curchayis to my lord gouernour on þe nyt price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxxij s

Item, March 12th, 4 ells of Holland cloth to be night kerchiefs for my lord governor, price of each ell 8s; total: 32s.

Item þe xxiij day of marche iiij elnis thre quarteris freis to be ane cote and ane cloke to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li x s

Item, the 23rd day of March, 4¾ ells of frieze to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £9 10s.

52

Item quarter and ane half quhite taffate of cord to be ane typpat to þe said steil bonet price of þe elne xxij s Summa—[viij s iij d]53

Item, ⅜ ell of white taffeta of cord to be a tippet for the said steel helm, price of each ell 22s; total: [8s 3d.]

…

…

Item þe samyn day for thre elnis rowane russat to be ane cloke to my lord gouernour—iij li x s

Item, the same day, for 3 ells of Rouen russet to be a cloak for my lord governor, £3 10s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter of purpour welwot to narve þe said clok price—l s

Item, ⅝ ell of purple velvet to trim the said cloak, price 50s.

Item tua elnis and ane quarter moran grane to be ane cote to my lord gouernour price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—viij li viij s ix d

Item, 2¼ ells of moran? grain to be a coat for my lord governor, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £8 8s 9d.

Item thre quarteris half quarter and ane nale of welwot to narve þe said cote of moran grane price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vj li xv s vij d

Item, 15⁄16 ell of velvet to trim the said coat of moran? grain, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £6 15s 7d.54

Item þe samyn day thre quarteris of blak to be my lord gouernour hois price—xxx s

Item, the same day, ¾ ell of black to be hose for my lord governor, price 30s.

This portion of the manuscript is missing. Enough survives at the left-hand margin to show that the missing portion contained two line items, but it is badly damaged, so the few words that are present are illegible.  53 This portion of the manuscript is missing. This total, presumably extrapolated from the other information in the line item, is present in Paul’s transcription.  54 The correct total for this amount of fabric at this price would be £3 5s 7d halfpenny, but it is more likely that the error was in the amount of velvet. If 115⁄16 ell of velvet was purchased, the total as written in the

16 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua elnis and ane half of taffate to vane and draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xlv s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta to trim and draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 18s; total: 45s.

…

…

lyne ane casak 55 þe welwot gottin furth of þe castell of Edinburt foure elnis and ane half of taffate price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li xij s [117]

line a cassock the velvet gotten forth from the castle of Edinburgh, 4½ ells of taffeta, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 12s.

April 1545 Item þe first day of appryle be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to Jhonne clerk jak maker for making of ane Jak to his grace furnesing of þe couering and all necessaris belanging thairto And mending of ane pair of gluvis of plait of his gracis—x li

Item, the first day of April, by my lord governor’s special command, to John Clerk, jackmaker, for making of a jack for his grace, furnishing of the covering and all necessities belonging thereto, and mending of a pair of gloves of plate of his grace’s, £10.

…

…

Item for ane pair of gluvis of ledder to be put within his gracis gluvis of plait—iiij s

Item, for a pair of gloves of leather to be put within his grace’s gloves of plate, 4s.

Item þe xxij day of apprile to mereleis cordinar ane elne of blak welwot to be schone and pantonis to my lord gouernour pryce thairof—iiij li

Item, the 22nd day of April, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, an ell of black velvet to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for my lord governor, price thereof £4.

Item ane quarter of domegrane to lyne þe said pantonis price thairof—vij s

Item, ¼ ell of demigrain to line the said slippers [or overshoes], price thereof 7s.

Item þe xxiiijto apprilis for ane spunge and ane Rubbur to my lord gouernoris chalmer—viij s [127]

Item, the 24th day of April, for a sponge and a rubber for my lord governor’s chamber, 8s.

Item þe xxvj day of apprile deliuerit to besse murray tua elnis holland claith to be napkynnis to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xx s Summa—xl s

Item, the 26th day of April, delivered to Bessie Murray, 2 ells of Holland cloth to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, price of each ell 20s; total: 40s.

Item þe samyn day for thre dosoun of sylken pointis to his grace—vj s [129]

Item, the same day for 36 silk points for his grace, 6s.

manuscript would be correct. These portions of the manuscript, including at least one complete line item, are missing.

 55



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 167

Item þe xxiiij day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command deliuerit to alexr forestar his gracis tailȝeour for certane necessaris furnist to my lord gouernour lik as ane bill of compt writtin of þe said alexanderris heir present to schaw beris þe soume of—xiij li ij s v d [134]

Item, the 24th day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Alexander Forester, his grace’s tailor, for certain necessities furnished to my lord governor as a bill of account written by the said Alexander here present to show bears out, the sum of £13 2s 5d.

May 1545 Item þe x day of Maii deliuerrit to alexr tailȝeour to be ane pair of hois to my lord gouernour vj quarteris paris blak price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—liiij s

Item, the 10th day of May, delivered to Alexander [Forester], tailor, to be a pair of hose for my lord governor, 1½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis and ane half blak taffate to draw furth and narve þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of black taffeta to draw forth and trim the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item half ane elne of taffate of cord to be gartanis to his grace price thairof—x s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta of cord to be garters for his grace, price thereof 10s.

Item ane elne of taffate of genis deliuerit to dauid hammiltoun of Brounhill to be ane belt and typpat for his gracis steill bonet price þairof—xvj s [139]

Item, an ell of taffeta of Genoa delivered to David Hamilton of Brownhill, to be a belt and a tippet for his grace’s steel helm, price thereof 16s.

June 1545 Item þe first day of Junij ane half elne of taffate to be gartanis to my lord gouernour price—xj s

Item, the first day of June, ½ ell of taffeta to be garters for my lord governor, price 11s.

Item half ane elne of taffate of foure threidis to be ane belt to his grace—viij s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta of four threads to be a belt for his grace, 8s.

Item þe xiiij day of Junij boucht in glasqw to be my lord gouernour ane belt ane elne of reid taffate of foure threiddis price—xvj s

Item, the 14th day of June, bought in Glasgow to be a belt for my lord governor, an ell of red taffeta of four threads, price 16s.

Item þe xxij day of Junij deliuerit to alexr forestar tailȝeour ane? elne? of stemmyng of myllane to be ane pair of hois to my lord gouernour price—l s

Item, the 22nd day of June, delivered to Alexander Forester, tailor, 1? ell? of stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for my lord governor, price 50s.

16 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for lynnyng to thir hois—vj s

Item for lining for these hose, 6s.

Item for thre dosoun of pointis—vj s

Item, for 36 points, 6s.

Item for thre elnis fustiane to lyne ane doublat to his grace and for stenting to it—xiiij s

Item, for three ells of fustian to line a doublet for his grace and for stiffening for it, 14s.

Item þe samyn day deliuerrit to alexr forestar tailȝeour xj quarteris freis to be ane cloke to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li xix s

Item, the same day, delivered to Alexander Forester, tailor, 2¾ ells of frieze to be a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 19s.

Item for ane elne of taffate to be gartanis to his grace—xxj s

Item, for an ell of taffeta to be garters for his grace, 21s.

Item þe last day of Junij for mending of ane cheinȝe of my lord gouernoris of þe ordour of þe cokill—xxij s

Item, the last day of June, for mending of a chain of my lord governor’s of the Order of the Cockle, 22s.

Item vj quarteris and ane half stemmyng to be tua pair of hois to his grace price—xxxj s vj d

Item, 1⅝ ells of stemming to be two pairs of hose for his grace, price 31s 6d.

Item x quarteris reid taffate to line ane pair of hois stekit wt reid welwot þe welwot gotten furt of þe castell of Edinburgh price—xl s [146]

Item, 2½ ells of red taffeta to line a pair of hose, sewn with red velvet, the velvet gotten forth from the castle of Edinburgh, price 40s.

July 1545 Item þe samyn day to James tailliefeir for ane typpat to his gracis steill bonet—x s [154]

Item, the same day to James Tailliefeir for a tippet for his grace’s steel helm, 10s.

August 1545 Item þe ix day of august be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to Jhonne clerk jak maker In part of paiment of ane pair slewis of plait maid to my Lord gouerno—xxij s [156]

Item, the 9th day of August, by my lord governor’s special command, to John Clerk, jack maker, in part payment for a pair of sleeves of plate made for my lord governor, 22s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 16 9

Item þe xviij day of august be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to alexr forestar tailȝeour for certane necessaris furnist to his grace fra þe xij day of apprile last bypast to þe xxij day of Julij last bypast as his tickat of compt heir present to schaw beris þe sowme of—xlj li xvj s [159]

Item, the 18th day of August, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Alexander Forester, tailor, for certain necessities furnished to his grace from the 12th day of last April to the 22nd day of last July, as his ticket of account here present to show bears out, the sum of £41 16s.

56 spetiall command to Thomas? hammiltoun? of golistoun? quhilkis he debursit for buittis schone and other necessaris boucht to his grace In Richardtoun þe tyme of þe pest being in Edinburgh—xxx s [160]

special command to Thomas? Hamilton? of Gilestoune? which he disbursed for boots, shoes, and other necessities bought for his grace in Riccarton? at the time of the pestilence being in Edinburgh, 30s.

October 1545

 56

Item þe thrid day of october boucht half ane elne of taffate of cord to be ane belt to my lord gouernour price thairof—57

Item, the third day of October, bought ½ ell of taffeta of cord to be a belt for my lord governor, price thereof

Item þe samyn day to Jhonne clerk Jak makar for ane pair of slevis of plait to his grace—iiij li viij s

Item, the same day, to John Clerk, jack maker, for a pair of sleeves of plate for his grace, £4 8s.

Item þe samyn day to besse murray sewistar for sevin sarkis and aucht napkynnis boucht to his grace—xviij li

Item, the same day, to Bessie Murray, seamstress, for seven shirts and eight handkerchiefs bought for his grace, £18.

…

…

Item þe samyn day for thre quarteris of blak welwot to be ane pair of pantonis to his grace—iij li

Item, the same day, for ¾ ell of black velvet to be a pair of slippers [or overshoes] for his grace, £3.

Item þe xj day of october for aucht pair of glwvis boucht to my lord gouernour In sanct Jhonstoun—viij s

Item, the 11th day of October, for eight pairs of gloves bought for my lord governor in St. Johnstone?, 8s.

Item þe samyn day boucht þair to be his grace ane belt half ane elne of taffate of genis price—viij s

Item, the same day, bought there, to be a belt for his grace, ½ ell of taffeta of Genoa, price 8s.

This portion of the manuscript, including at least one complete line item as well as the beginning of this entry for boots and shoes, is missing. The text identifying the supplier is badly damaged.  57 This portion of the manuscript is illegible.

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Item for ane pair of schone þair to his grace—ij s

Item, for a pair of shoes [bought] there for his grace, 2s.

Item for ane dousoun of sylkin pointtis—ij s [165]

Item, for 12 silk points, 2s.

December 1545

 58

Item þe xxiij day of December boucht to be my Lord gouernour ane pair of hois and deliuerit to alexr forestar his gracis tailȝeour vj quarteris and ane half quhyte stemmyng price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, the 23rd day of December, bought to be a pair of hose for my lord governor, and delivered to Alexander Forester, his grace’s tailor, 1⅝ ells of white stemming, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.58

Item þe samyn day deliuerit to alexr forestar to narve ane cote of his gracis tua elnis half quarter purpour welwot the claith of þe coit boucht In drumfreis price of þe elne iiij li Summa viij li x s

Item, the same day, delivered to Alexander Forester, to trim a coat of his grace’s, 2⅛ ells of purple velvet, the cloth of the coat bought in Dumfries, price of each ell £4; total: £8 10s.

Item for tua elnis and ane half blak gray to lyne þis coit—x s

Item, for 2½ ells of black gray to line this coat, 10s.

Item thre elnis fustiane to lyne þe bodyis and slevis of þis coit—xv s

Item, 3 ells of fustian to line the bodies and sleeves of this coat, 15s.

Item for buttonis to þis coit—vij s

Item, for buttons for this coat, 7s.

Item for fustiane to lyne ane doublat of his gracis—xv s

Item, for fustian to line a doublet of his grace’s, 15s.

Item for canves to stent þe samyn—iiij s vj d

Item, for canvas to stiffen the same, 4s 6d.

Item to lyne ane pair of hois of his gracis and sychtis of his said coit tua elnis and ane half of taffate price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, to line a pair of hose of his grace’s, and scyes of his said coat, 2½ ells of taffeta, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item for lynnyng to thir hois—iiij s

Item, for lining for these hose, 4s.

Item for half ane elne and ane naill of welwot to be schone to his grace—xxxix s iiij d [170]

Item, for 9⁄16 ell of velvet to be shoes for his grace, 39s 4d.

The total should be 26s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 17 1

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to thomas myrreleis his gracis cordiner for buttis schone and other necessaris furnist to his grace fra þe xxviij day of december in ao domini xlijto exclusive to þe xxiiij day of december instant as þe said thomas tickat of compt heir present to schaw particularlie beris þe sowme of—lvj li iiij s [175]

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Thomas Myrreleis, his grace’s cordwainer, for boots, shoes, and other necessities furnished to his grace from the 28th day of December in the year of our Lord [15]42 exclusive to the 24th day of this December, as the said Thomas’ ticket of account here present to show bears out in detail, the sum of £56 4s.

January 1545/46 Item þe xv day of Januar for ane couering of ane steill bonet to my lord gouernour—xix s

Item, the 15th day of January, for a covering of a steel helm for my lord governor, 19s.

Item xxv to Jarij for ane blak bonet to his grace—xxxiiij s

Item, January 25th, for a black bonnet for his grace, 34s.

Item for ane bonet cais to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for a bonnet case for the same, 3s.

Item for ane typpat to his gracis steill bonet contenand half ane elne of taffate of cord—x s

Item, for a tippet for his grace’s steel helm, containing ½ ell of taffeta of cord, 10s.

…

…

Item for half ane elne of taffate of cord to be his grace ane belt price—x s [181]

Item, for ½ ell of taffeta of cord to be a belt for his grace, price 10s.

Item to Issobell Keir relicte of vmqle alexr forester tailȝeour for merchandice furnyst be hir said vmqle husband to my lord gouernoris awin persoun—lx li [183]

Item, to Isobel Keir, widow of the late Alexander Forester, tailor, for merchandise furnished by her said late husband for my lord governor’s own person, £60.

February 1545/46 Item þe secund day of februar deliuerrit to archibald dewar tailȝeour to be ane cloke to my lord gouernour his gracis awin cloke being stollin furth of maister henry lauderris logeing tua elnis and ane half of fyne spanȝe freis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, the second day of February, delivered to Archibald Dewar, tailor, to be a cloak for my lord governor, his grace’s own cloak being stolen from Master Henry Lauder’s lodging, 2½ ells of fine Spanish frieze, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item þe samyn day for ane spunge to his gracis chalmer—v s

Item, the same day, for a sponge for his grace’s chamber, 5s.

Item þe samyn day for thre dosoun of pointis to his grace—vij s vj d [185]

Item, the same day, for 36 points for his grace, 7s 6d.

Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to george ferre his gracis furrour debursit be him in my lord gouernoris effaris necessaris concernyng his craft as þe said precept beris—xxxij li ij s [188]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to George Ferre, his grace’s furrier, disbursed by him in my lord governor’s affairs, necessities concerning his craft, as the said precept bears out, £32 2s.

Item þe viij day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept & spetiall command to Elizabeth kar þe relict of vmqle alexr forstar his gracis tailȝeour quhilk was restand awin him for his feis warkmanschip & dewiteis be þe space of thre ȝeris & thre moneths afore his deces þe sowme of—jcxx li [191]

Item, the 8th day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Kar, the widow of the late Alexander Forester, his grace’s tailor, which was still owed him for his fees, workmanship, and duties by the space of three years and three months before his decease, the sum of £120.

March 1545/46

 59

Item þe nynt day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept deliuerit to Archibald Dewar tailȝeour to be his grace ane cote and ane cloke foure elnis spanȝeis freis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—viij li ij s

Item, the ninth day of March, by my lord governor’s precept, delivered to Archibald Dewar, tailor, to be a coat and a cloak for his grace, 459 ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell 36s; total: £8 2s.

Item tua elnis and ane half bukram to lyne þe said cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of buckram to line the said coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 12s 6d.

Item þe samyn day deliuerit to Archibald Dewar to lyne ane pair of hois of his gracis stokkit w t blew welwot þe welwot gottin furth of the castell half ane elne of dalmegrane price þairof—xiij s iiij d

Item, the same day, delivered to Archibald Dewar to line a pair of hose of his grace’s stocked with blue velvet, the velvet gotten from the castle, ½ ell of demigrain, price thereof 13s 4d.

Item tua elnis woolat taffate to draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xviij s Summa— xxxvj s

Item, 2 ells of woolen?60 taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 18s; total: 36s.

The amount of fabric should be 4½ ells, or the total should be £7 4s. The descriptor “woolen” may refer to the surface texture rather than the fiber content of the textile.

 60



 61

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 173

Item tua elnis j qrter blak to be tua pair of schankis to þe saiddis hois stokkit wt welwot and to be his grace ane pair of haill hois price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li xix s

Item, 2¼ ells of black to be two pairs of legs for the said hose stocked with velvet, and to be a pair of whole hose for his grace, price of each ell 44s; total: £4 19s.

Item tua elnis and ane half blak taffate to draw furth and narve þe said haill blak hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of black taffeta to draw forth and trim the said whole black hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item half ane elne of dalmegrane to lyne þe said haill hois price—xl s61

Item, ½ ell of demigrain to line the said whole hose, price 40s.

Item for schering? of 62 of þe said hois

Item, for shearing? of of the said hose

Item thre elnis and ane [quarter f]yne quhite fustiane ane to lyne ane doublat of [sa]63ting to his grace þe sating gottin frame lord secretar price of þe elne of þe said fustiane vj s Summa—[xix s vj d]64

Item, 3¼ ells of fine white fustian, one to line a doublet of satin for his grace, the satin gotten from my lord secretary, price of each ell of the said fustian 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item foure elnis pasmentis of sylk to þe said doublat price of þe elne ij s Summa—viij s

Item, 4 ells of passementerie of silk for the said doublet, price of each ell 2s; total: 8s.

Item tuenty fyve buttonis sylk to þe said doublat and cote of freis before writtin price of þe dosoun iiij s Summa—viij s iiij d

Item, 25 buttons of silk for the said doublet and coat of frieze previously noted, price of each dozen 4s; total: 8s 4d.

Item for blak sylk to sew þe said doublat—ij s vj d

Item, for black silk to sew the said doublet, 2s 6d.

Item for canves to stent þe said doublat—ij s

Item, for canvas to stiffen the said doublet, 2s.

Item deliuerrit to archiebald Dewar ane elne and ane quarter of bukram to be his grace ane pair of sockis price of þe elne v s Summa—vj s iij d [194]

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for his grace, price of each ell 5s; total: 6s 3d.

This is double the highest price of demigrain given elsewhere in these Accounts and may be an error in the manuscript.  62 This portion of the manuscript is missing.  63 Bracketed portions of the manuscript are missing. Paul inserted guesses, but this transcription differs from his.  64 This portion of the manuscript is missing, but Paul calculated the total.

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April 1546 Item þe fourt day of aprile be my lord gouernoris precept to Jhonne clerk for ane Jak to his grace—viij li xvj s

Item, the fourth day of April, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Clerk for a jack for his grace, £8 16s.

Item vijto aprilis boucht to my lord gouernour tua pair of schankis of hois ane elne and half ane quartar of blak stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, April 7th, bought to be two pairs of legs of hose for my lord governor, 1⅛ ells of black stemming of Milan, price of each ell 42s; total: 47s 6d.65

…

…

Item xvjto aprilis for ane elne of taffate of corde to be belt and gartanis to my lord gouernour—xx s [195]

Item, April 16th, for an ell of taffeta of cord to belt and garters for my lord governor, 20s.

May 1546

 65

Item þe thrid day of maij for ane bonet to my lord gouernour—xxix s

Item, the third day of May, for a bonnet for my lord governor, 29s.

Item for ane kays of kamys to his grace— xiiij s

Item, for a case of combs for his grace, 14s.

Item tua dosoun of sylkin poynttis—vj s

Item, 24 silk points, 6s.

Item ixto maij for ane bonet to my lord gouernour deliuerrit to his grace in maister James Foullis—xxx s

Item, May 9th, for a bonnet for my lord governor delivered to his grace in Master James Foull’s, 30s.

Item ane elne of taffate of cord to be his grace garttanis price—xj s

Item, an ell66 of taffeta of cord to be garters for his grace, price 11s.

Item þe xvij day of maij thre elnis holland claith to be his grace nycht cuchayis price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, the 17th day of May, 3 ells of Holland cloth to be night kerchiefs for his grace, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

…

…

The total should be 47s 3d. This may be an error in the manuscript, as 11s for an ell of taffeta of cord is half the usual price.

 66



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 175

Item to myrreleis cordinar half ane elne & ane quartar of welwot to be schone to my lord gouernour price of þe elne iij li x s price of þe thre quartaris and ane half—lij s vj d

Item, to Myreleis, cordwainer, ¾ ell of velvet to be shoes for my lord governor, price of each ell £3 10s; price of the ¾ and a half 67 52s 6d.

Item vj quarteris blak stemmyng of myllane boucht fra clemmot lyttillis wyf & deliuerit to archiebald dewar to be hois to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—iij li vj s [201]

Item, 1½ ells of black stemming of Milan bought from Clemmot Little’s wife and delivered to Archibald Dewar to be hose for my lord governor, price of each ell 44s; total: £3 6s.

June 1546

 67

Item þe vj day of Junij to James hammiltoun of? ormistoun? for gluffis & other necessaris boucht? to? my?68 lord gouernour—xxij s [204]

Item, the 6th day of June, to James Hamilton of? Orbiston? for gloves and other necessities bought? for? my? lord governor, 22s.

Item for v quartaris new bukram to be his grace sockis—vj s iij d

Item, for 1¼ ells of new buckram to be socks for his grace, 6s 3d.

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris command deliuert to archibald dewar for ane coit of Inglis clayt bocht and deliuert to his grace contenand tua elnis and ane quarter price of þe elne lv s sma—vj li iij s ix d

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s command, delivered to Archibald Dewar for a coat of English cloth bought and delivered to his grace, containing 2¼ ells, price of each ell 55s; total: £6 3s 9d.

Item for tua elnis of welwot to nerve þe said coit price of þe elne iij li Summa—vj li

Item, for 2 ells of velvet to trim the said coat, price of each ell £3; total: £6.

Item thre elnis and ane half of bukrem to lyne þe said coit price of þe elne v s sma— xvij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of buckram to line the said coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 17s 6d.

Item for parys silk to It—x s

Item, for Paris silk for it, 10s.

Item thre dosane of buttonis to þe said coit price—xij s

Item, 36 buttons for the said coat, price 12s.

Item for Lyning iij elnis fusteane to lyne ane doublet to his grace price of þe elne v s sma—xv s

Item, for 3 ells of fustian to line a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 5s; total: 15s.

£3 10s is the correct price for ¾ of an ell. The phrase “and a half ” is a mistake. This portion of the manuscript is considerably damaged.

 68

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for iiij elnis and ane half of pasmentis to þe said doublet price of þe elne ij s sma—ix s

Item, for 4½ ells of passementerie for the said doublet, price of each ell 2s; total: 9s.

Item for canves to stent þe said doublet—ij s

Item, for canvas to stiffen the said doublet, 2s.

Item for silk to sew þe samyn—xviij d [205]

Item, for silk to sew the same, 18d.

July 1546 Item the […] day of Julij to archibald Dewar tailȝeour to be ane cote and ane cloke to my lord gouernour foure elnis and ane half fyne spanȝe freis price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xj s

Item, the … day of July, to Archibald Dewar, tailor, to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, 4½ ells of fine Spanish frieze, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.

Item ane dosoun of sylkin buttonis to þe said cote price—iij s

Item, 12 silk buttons for the said coat, price 3s.

Item ane steill bonet boucht to his grace and deliuerrit to malcolm gourlaw price—xxiiij s

Item, a steel helm bought for his grace and delivered to Malcolm Gourlay, price 24s.

Item for half ane elne of taffate of corde to be ane typpat to þe said bonat—xj s

Item, for ½ ell of taffeta of cord to be a tippet for the said helm, 11s.

…

…

Item deliuerit to myrreleis his gracis cordinar to be schone half ane elne & half ane quartar of welwot price—xliij s ix d [206]

Item, delivered to Myrreleis, his grace’s cordwainer, to be shoes ⅝ ell of velvet, price 43s 9d.

Item to the seruandis of Archiebald Dewar his gracis maister tailȝeour for þair labourris sittand vp all nycht vpon his gracis besynes—v s [207]

Item, to the servants of Archibald Dewar, his grace’s master tailor, for their labors sitting up all night upon his grace’s business, 5s.

August 1546 Item þe the xiiij day of august boucht and deliuerrit to archiebald dewar his gracis tailȝeour to be pasmentis for ane cote of velwot of his gracis thre gret hankis and ane quartar of ane hanke of sewing gold—price of þe hank xxx s Summa—iiij li xvij s vj d

Item, the 14th day of August, bought and delivered to Archibald Dewar, his grace’s tailor, to be passementerie for a coat of velvet of his grace’s, three great hanks and a quarter of a hank of sewing gold, price of each hank 30s; total: £4 17s 6d.

Item for ane kais of kamys boucht and deliuerit to his grace—xx s

Item, for a case of combs bought and delivered to his grace, 20s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 177

 69

Item for ane hat couerrit wt taffate boucht and deliuerrit to his grace price—xxvj s

Item, for a hat covered with taffeta bought and delivered to his grace, price 26s.

Item boucht and deliuerrit to James hammiltoun of orbistoun to be hois to his grace tua elnis fyne stemmyng of melane price of þe elne l s Summa—v li

Item, bought and delivered to James Hamilton of Orbiston to be hose for his grace, 2 ells of fine stemming of Milan, price of each ell 50s; total: £5.

Item for ane 69 bonett of welwot boucht and deliuerrit [to] þe said James for his grace price—xxxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet of velvet bought and delivered to the said James for his grace, price 34s.

Item þe samyn day for ane spunge to his gracis chalmer & deliuerrit to malcom gourlay price—iij s vj d

Item, the same day, for a sponge for his grace’s chamber delivered to Malcolm Gourlay, price 3s 6d.

Item boucht sevin quarteris fyne taffate of genis to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xviij s Summa— xxxj s vj d

Item, bought 1¾ ells of fine taffeta of Genoa to be belt and garters for my lord governor, price of each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item to archiebald dewar to bordour ane goun and ane cote of taffate of grawgane the taffate boucht fra Robert craig foure elnis quartar and half quartar of welwot price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xiiij li xviij s vj d

Item, to Archibald Dewar to border a gown and a coat of taffeta of grosgrain, the taffeta bought from Robert Craig, 4⅜ ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £14 18s 6d.70

Item to sew þe said bordouris of welwot thre vnce paris sylk price of þe vnce x s Summa—xxx s

Item, to sew the said borders of velvet 3 ounces of Paris silk, price of each ounce 10s; total: 30s.

Item xj ½ elnis blak bukram to lyn þe said goun and cote price of þe elne v s Summa— lvij s vj d

Item, 11½ ells of black buckram to line the said gown and coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 57s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent ane doublat of his gracis price—xxxij d

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen a doublet of his grace’s, price 32d.

Item thre elnis and ane half fustiane to lyne þe said doublat price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3½ ells of fustian to line the said doublet, price of each ell 6s; total: 21s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged. The illegible section contains only one or two words. The correct total for this amount of velvet at this price would be £15 6s 3d, which is far enough from the total given to raise the question of whether one of the other variables is incorrect. No easy solution presents itself, though the total for 4¼ ells would be £14 17s 6d.

 70

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item foure elnis and ane quartar of pasmentis of sylk to þe said doublat price of þe elne xx d Summa—vij s

Item, 4¼ ells of passementerie of silk for the said doublet, price of each ell 20d; total: 7s.72

Item

Item,

Item for to his grace to 71

Item, for to his grace to

Item for half ane elne of blak welwot to be pantonis to his grace þe pantonis brot to sanctandrois wt alexander guthre—xxxv s [210]

Item, for ½ ell of black velvet to be slippers [or overshoes] for his grace, the slippers [or overshoes] brought to St. Andrews with Alexander Guthrie, 35s.

Item be my Lord gouernoris prept and spetiall comd to thomas myrreleis his graces cordinar for butis schone and vþer necessaris furnist to his grace sen þe xxiiij day of december last bipast to þe Last day of þis instant monet of august and for þe said thomas fe þis instant ȝeir as his compt heir pnt to schaw beris þe sowme of—xij li iij s [214]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Thomas Myrreleis, his grace’s cordwainer, for boots, shoes, and other necessities furnished to his grace since the 24th day of December last to the last day of this current month of August, and for the said Thomas’s fee this current year as his account here present to show bears out, the sum of £12 3s.

October 1546

 71

Item þe xix day of October tua elnis and ane half fyne pareis blak to be tua pair theis of hois to my lorde gouernores grace price of þe elne xlij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the 19th day of October, 2½ ells fine Paris black to be two pairs of thighs of hose for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell 42s; total: £4 4s.73

Item ane elne and ane half quartar of fyne welwote to bordour þe said hois price of þe elne iij li x s—iij li xviij s ix d

Item, 1⅛ ells of fine velvet to border the said hose, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £3 18s 9d.

Item vj elnis taffate to lyne þe said hois to narve þame and to be belt and gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, 6 ells of taffeta to line the said hose, to trim them and to be belt and garters, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 16s.

Item v quartaris fyne stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þe said hois þe elne l s Summa—iij li ij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of fine stemming of Milan to be legs to the said hose, each ell 50s; total: £3 2s 6d.

The manuscript is heavily damaged in this area, and part of the page is missing. The total should be 7s 1d.  73 The total should be £5 5s. The total given would be correct for 2 ells at 42s per ell.  72



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 179

 74

Item for reid to lyne þame—xxij s

Item, for red to line them, 22s.

Item for silk to þame—v s

Item, for silk for them, 5s.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þame In furth of Edinburgh to Sanctandrois—ij s [217]

Item, an ell of canvas to carry them in forth from Edinburgh to St. Andrews, 2s.

Item foure dosoun silkyn pointtis price of þe dosoun ij s viij d Summa—x s viij d [218]

Item, 48 silk points, price of each dozen, 2s 8d; total: 10s 8d.

Item thre elnis thre quartarris color de roy to be ane cote to his grace þe elne xxij s Summa—iiij li ij s vj d [219]

Item, 3¾ ells of color de roy to be a coat for his grace, each ell 22s; total: £4 2s 6d.

Item xxviij elnis thre quartaris holland claith to be sarkis ny t curchays & camyng curchays to his grace price of þe elne xij s Summa—xvj li iiij s

Item, for 28¾ ells Holland cloth to be shirts, night kerchiefs, and combing kerchiefs for his grace, price of each ell 12s; total: £16 4s.74

Item for sewing of þe camyng curchays— xvj s

Item, for sewing of the combing kerchiefs, 16s.

Item tua elnis & a half camrage to be naipkynnis to his grace þe elne xviij s Summa— xxxvj s [220]

Item, 2½ ells of cambric to be handkerchiefs for his grace, each ell 18s; total: 36s.75

Item foure elnis & ane half freis to be cote & cloke to his grace þe elne xxxiiij s Summa— vij li xiij s

Item, 4½ ells of frieze to be a coat and a cloak for his grace, each ell 34s; total: £7 13s.

Item for buttonis to þis cote—iiij s [221]

Item, for buttons for this coat, 4s.

Item half ane elne and ane nale of welwote to lyne þe Innersyde of þe nek of his graces ryding clok price—xxxix s iij d obolus [222]

Item, 9⁄16 ell of velvet to line the inner side of the neck of his grace’s riding cloak, price 39s 3½d.

Item ane elne of bukrame to turs my lorde gouernoures ryding cloke In—v s [226]

Item, an ell of buckram to carry my lord governor’s riding cloak in, 5s.

Item vj pair of glwffis to his grace—xij s [227]

Item, 6 pairs of gloves for his grace, 12s.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne his graces cote of freis þe elne v s Summa—xx s [228]

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line his grace’s coat of frieze, each ell 5s; total: 20s.

The total should be £17 5s. The total should be 45s.

 75

18 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua dosoun of silkyn pointtis to his graces clathis—iiij s [229]

Item, 24 silk points for his grace’s clothes, 4s.

Item to ane boy þt broucht certane clathis of my lorde gouernoures furth of Edinburt to Sanctandrois—v s [230]

Item, to a boy that brought certain clothes of my lord governor’s forth from Edinburgh to St. Andrews, 5s.

November 1546 Item vij elnis fyne small hollande claith to be camyng curchays to his grace price of þe elne xvj s Summa—v li xij s

Item, 7 ells of very fine Holland cloth to be combing kerchiefs for his grace, price of each ell 16s; total: £5 12s.

Item for making of þir curchays—xvj s [233]

Item, for making of these kerchiefs, 16s.

Item foure elnis freis to be his grace ane cloke his awyn being stollyn in Sanctandrois þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s [234]

Item, 4 ells of frieze to be a cloak for his grace, his own being stolen in St. Andrew’s, each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.76

Item þe xxiiij day of November to ane boy þt remanit In Edinburght upoun þe making of ane freis cloke to my lorde gouernour and broucht it with him to Sanctandrois—x s

Item, the 24th day of November, to a boy that remained in Edinburgh waiting upon the making of a frieze cloak for my lord governor, and brought it with him to St. Andrew’s, 10s.

Item to Archibald Dewarris childer In drinksilwer—xij d [236]

Item, to Archibald Dewar’s children77 in drinksilver, 12d.

December 1546

 76

Item þe xvj day of December to be tua pair of schone to my lorde gouernour half ane elne and half ane quartar blak welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xliij s vj d

Item, the 16th day of December, to be two pairs of shoes for my lord governor, ⅝ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 43s 6d.78

Item to be his grace belt and gartanis ane elne and thre quartarres taffate of genis þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, to be belt and garters for his grace, 1¾ ells of taffeta of Genoa, each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item to Besse murray to by certane sewing gold to napkynnes of my lorde gouernouris—xxx s [241]

Item, to Bessie Murray to buy certain sewing gold for handkerchiefs of my lord governor’s, 30s.

The total should be £7 4s. The total given would be correct for 2½ ells. “Children” here refers to his apprentices or other employees, who are being given a tip for their service.  78 The total should be 43s 9d.  77



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 181

Item to ane boy send to Linlithqw for my Lorde gouernoures sarkis and naipkynnes—iij s [245]

Item, to a boy sent to Linlithgow for my lord governor’s shirts and handkerchiefs, 3s.

Item send ane boy furth of Linlithqw w t sarkis of my lorde gouernoures quhilk Besse murray had sewand þair—iiij s [246]

Item, sent a boy forth from Linlithgow with shirts of my lord governor’s which Bessie Murray had sewn there, 4s.

Item send ane boy furth of Linlithqw to sanctandrois wt certane ma sarkes to my lorde gouernour agane ȝule—v s [247]

Item, sent a boy forth from Linlithgow to St. Andrew’s with certain additional shirts to my lord governor for Yule, 5s.

January 1546/47 Item primo Januarii foure elnis Inglische gray to be ane cote to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xv s Summa—iij li

Item, the first of January, 4 ells of English gray to be a coat for my lord governor, price of each ell 15s; total: £3.

Item tua elnis gray welwote to bordoure þis cote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of gray velvet to border this coat, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item tua elnis gray fustiane to þe slevis of þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—x s [248]

Item, 2 ells of gray fustian for the sleeves of this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item half ane elne and ane quartar blak welwote to be schone to his grace price —xliiij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet to be shoes for his grace, price 44s 6d.

Item ane quartar taffateis of þe corde to be my lorde gouernour ane typpat price—v s

Item, ¼ ell of taffeta of cord to be a tippet for my lord governor, price 5s.

Item ane blak bonet to his grace—xxvj s

Item, a black bonnet for his grace, 26s.

Item for ane blak couering of ane steil bonet to his grace—xviij s [249]

Item, for a black covering for a steel helm for his grace, 18s.

Item x Januarii tua spunges to his graces chalmer—x s

Item, January 10th, two sponges for his grace’s chamber, 10s.

Item tua bonet caissis to his grace—vj s viij d [251]

Item, two bonnet cases for his grace, 6s 8d.

182

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to James hammiltoun of Ormistoun þt he gaif for ane welwote bonet to my lorde gouernour—xliiij s [252]

Item, to James Hamilton of Orbiston that he gave for a velvet bonnet for my lord governor, 44s.

February 1546/47 Item secundo februarii for tua spungis to my lorde gouernoures chalmer—viij s

Item, February 2nd, for two sponges for my lord governor’s chamber, 8s.

Item ane bonet cais to his grace—iiij s [268]

Item, a bonnet case for his grace, 4s.

March 1546/47

 79

Item þe first day of marche furnist to his grace be Archiebald dewar foure elnis and ane half spanȝe freis to be him cote and cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—viij li ij s [278]

Item, the first day of March, furnished to his grace by Archibald Dewar, 4½ ells of Spanish frieze to be a coat and cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £8 2s.

Item þe samyn day boucht fra williame craik thre elnis and ane half quartar blak sating to be his grace ane doublat price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xviij s iij d

Item, the same day, bought from William Craik 3⅛ ells of black satin to be a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 18s 3d.79

Item furnist be Archiebald dewar thre elnis ane quartar fustiane to lyne þe said doublat price of þe elne v s Summa—xvj s iij d

Item, furnished by Archibald Dewar, 3¼ ells of fustian to line the said doublet, price of each ell 5s; total: 16s 3d.

Item canves to be stenting to it—ij s

Item, canvas to be stiffening for it, 2s.

Item foure elnis and ane quartar pasmentis to þe samyn—viij s vj d

Item, 4¼ ells of passementerie for the same, 8s 6d.

Item xix buttonis to þe cote and doublat— vj s iiij d

Item, 19 buttons for the coat and doublet, 6s 4d.

Item sewing silk to þe samyn all furnist be þe said Archibald—ij s [279]

Item, sewing silk for the same, all furnished by the said Archibald, 2s.

Item tua elnis half elne of franche tannye to be ane ryding cote to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, 2½ ells of French tawny to be a riding coat for my lord governor, price of each ell 34s; total: £4 4s.80

The total should be £5 18s 9d. The total should be £4 5s.

 80



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 183

Item vij quartarres tannye welwote to bordoure þis cote with price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vj li ij s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of tawny velvet to border this coat with, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £6 2s 6d.

Item tua vnce half vnce and quartar vnce of cording silk to þe said cote price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 2¾ ounces of cording silk for the said coat, price of the ounce 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item tua elnis of blak fustiane to lyne þe bodyes of þe cote price—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of black fustian to line the bodies of the coat, price 16s.

Item x quartaris blak gray to lyne þe talis of þe cote price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s [281]

Item, 2½ ells of black gray to line the hems of the coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item foure elnis of þe same tannye to be his grace an cloke price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vj li xvj s

Item, 4 ells of the same tawny to be a cloak for his grace, price of each ell 34s; total: £6 16s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar of tannye welwote to vane þe said cloke price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xliij s ix d [282]

Item, ⅝ ell of tawny velvet to trim the said cloak, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 43s 9d.

Item to myrreleis cordinar boucht at williame Jhonnesoun to be his grace schone half ane elne & half ane quartar lukes welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xlviij s ix d [283]

Item, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, bought at William Johnson, to be shoes for his grace, ⅝ ell of Lucca velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 48s 9d.81

Item to Malcolme gourlay send towart hammiltoun to addres certane tapessare & habulȝeamentis þair—xxij s [292]

Item, to Malcom Gourlay, sent toward Hamilton to address certain tapestries and habiliments there, 22s.

April 1547

 81

Item septimo Aprilis boucht fra Jhonne Waderstoun tua elnis and ane half of freis to be ane cloke to my lorde Gouernour his graces cloke of before stollyn price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, April 7th, bought from John Waterstone 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for my lord governor (his grace’s previous cloak being stolen), price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item fra þe said Jhonne tua elnis canves to turs certane clathis of his graces furth of Edinburt to Linlithqw price of þe elne xx d Summa—iij s iiij d [293]

Item, from the said John 2 ells of canvas to carry certain clothes of his grace’s forth from Edinburgh to Linlithgow, price of each ell 20d; total: 3s 4d.

The total should be 43s 9d.

184

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item þe samyn day boucht fra James curll to be belt and gartanis to his grace vj quartaris taffateis of foure thredis price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, the same day, bought from James Curl to be belt and garters for his grace, 1½ ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 14s; total: 28s.82

Item for ane bonet to my lorde gouernoures grace bouchte fra williame craik—xl s

Item, for a bonnet for my lord governor’s grace, bought from William Craik, 40s.

Item boucht fra þe said williame ane hat of welwote—lv s [295]

Item, bought from the said William a hat of velvet, 55s.

Item thre elnis and ane half blak sating to be my lord gouernour ane doublat price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, 3½ ells of black satin to be a doublet for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item fyve quartaris blak welwote to be schone & pantonnes to his grace price—iiij li vij s vj d [297]

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for his grace, price £4 7s 6d.

May 1547

 82

Item þe aucht day of Maii furnist be archiebald dewar half ane elne & half ane quarter reid stemmyng to be schankes to ane pair of reid hois of my lord gouernoures price of þe elne l s Summa—xxxj s iij d

Item, the eighth day of May, furnished by Archibald Dewar, ⅝ ell of red stemming to be legs to a pair of red hose of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 50s; total: 31s 3d.

Item half ane quartar of crammosye welwote to eik þe theis of þe said hois—xx s

Item, ⅛ ell of crimson velvet to enlarge the thighs of the said hose, 20s.

Item vj quartaris reid taffate of þe corde to be gartanis to þir hois price of þe elne xx s Summa—xxx s

Item, 1½ ells of red taffeta of the cord to be garters to these hose, price of each ell 20s; total: 30s.

Item to þe said Archiebald for tua skynnes to be ane cote to his grace price of þe pece xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, to the said Archibald for two skins to be a coat for his grace, price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item v quartaris blak welwote to it price of þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet for it, price of each ell £4; total: £5.

Item for gret pareis silk to steik it with—viij s

Item, for great Paris silk to stitch it with, 8s.

Item for tua buttonis to it—viij d [302]

Item, for two buttons for it, 8d.

The total should be 21s.



 83

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 18 5

Item to be ane typpat to my lord gouernouris steill ane quartar & half quartar taffate of þe corde price—vj s

Item, to be a tippet for my lord governor’s steel [helm] ⅜ ell of taffeta of the cord, price 6s.

Item bukrame to be ane pair of sokes to his grace—v s viij d

Item, buckram to be a pair of socks for his grace, 5s 8d.

Item thre quartarres and ane half pareis blak to be ane pair of theis of hois to my Lorde gouernour furnis be Archiebald dewar price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxvij s

Item, ⅞ ell of Paris black to be a pair of thighs of hose for my lord governor, furnished by Archibald Dewar, price of each ell 36s; total: 27s.83

Item vij quartaris stemmyng furnist be him to be the pair of schankes to þe said hois price of þe elne xlviij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, 1¾ ells of stemming furnished by him to be the pair of legs to the said hose, price of each ell 48s; total: £4 4s.

Item thre quartaris welwote to bar þe said hois price of þe elne […] Summa—lij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of velvet to trim the said hose, price of each ell …;84 total: 52s 6d.

Item tua elnis taffate to þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item […] silk to steik þame with—iiij s

Item, … silk to stitch them with, 4s.

Item […] lynyng to þame—x s [304]

Item, … lining for them, 10s.

Item boucht fra James aikman to be ane cote to my lorde gouernour fyve elnis half fyne blak welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xix li v s

Item, bought from James Aikman to be a coat for my lord governor 5½ ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £19 5s.

Item boucht fra Robart cragis wyf xiiij elnis pasmentis and ane half of blak silk and gold price of þe elne v s Summa—iij li xij s vj d

Item, bought from Robert Craig’s wife 14½ ells of passementerie of black silk and gold, price of each ell 5s; total: £3 12s 6d.

Item furnist be williame craig to lyne þe said cote foure elnis & ane half new bukrame price of þe elne v s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, furnished by William Craig to line the said coat 4½ ells of new buckram, price of each ell 5s; total: 22s 6d.

Item to Archiebald dewar for sewing silk & buttonis to it—vj s [305]

Item, to Archibald Dewar for sewing silk and buttons for it, 6s.

The total should be 31s 6d. The total given would be correct if the amount of fabric were ¾ of an ell, so the phrase “and ane half ” may be an error.  84 This space was left blank in the manuscript, but the price per ell would have been £3 10s.

18 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item boucht fra Archiebald dewar to be ane dule goun to my lorde gouernour and ane hude vij elnis and thre quartaris paries blake price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiij li xix s

Item, bought from Archibald Dewar to be a mourning gown for my lord governor and a hood, 7¾ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 36s; total: £13 19s.

Item tua elnis half pareis blake to be ane dule cote to his grace price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iiij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells Paris black to be a mourning coat for his grace, price of each ell 38s; total: £4 15s.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item thre elnis half fyne blak to be his grace ane spanȝe cloik price of þe elne xlviij s Summa—viij li viij s

Item, 3½ ells fine black to be a Spanish cloak for his grace, price of each ell 48s; total: £8 8s.

Item ane dosoun buttonis to þis cote—iiij s

Item, 12 buttons for this coat, 4s.

Item ane dule bonet to his grace price—xiiij s [306]

Item, a mourning bonnet for his grace, price 14s.

Item to alexander robertsoun tailȝeour for furnessing of certane necessaris to ane coit of my lord gouernoures ffurnessing of necessaris and making of ane liveray to his graces paige claud as his tiket of compt heir present to schaw beris—iij li xiij s vj d [309]

Item, to Alexander Robertson, tailor, for furnishing of certain necessities for a coat of my lord governor’s, furnishing of necessities and making of a livery for his grace’s page, Claude, as his ticket of account here present to show bears out, £3 13s 6d.

June 1547 Item þe fyft day of Junii for certane Rebanes to my lorde gouernour—viij s

Item, the fifth day of June, for certain ribbons for my lord governor, 8s.

Item þe x day of Junii thre elnis and ane half color de roy to be ane cloke to my lord gouernour before his ryding to drumfreis price of þe elne xxiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the 10th day of June, 3½ ells of color de roy to be a cloak for my lord governor before his riding to Dumfries, price of each ell 24s; total: £4 4s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar tannye welwote to bordoure þe same cloke— xliiij s ix d

Item, ⅝ ell of tawny velvet to border the same cloak, 44s 9d.

Item thre quartaris & ane half pareis blak to be ane pair of theis of hois to his grace price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxxv s

Item, ⅞ ell of Paris black to be a pair of thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell 40s; total: 35s.

Item for lyning to þame—x s

Item, for lining for them, 10s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 187

Item steking silk to steik þe hois with—v s

Item, sewing silk to sew the hose with, 5s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

Item thre quartaris blak welwote to bordour þir hois—lij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet to border these hose, 52s 6d.

Item for ane elne of reid taffate to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour price xxij s

Item, for an ell of red taffeta to be belt and garters for my lord governor, price 22s.

Item to be his grace sarkes and napkynnes xviij elnis hollande claith price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, to be shirts and handkerchiefs for his grace 18 ells Holland cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: £14 8s.

Item ane bonet send to his grace to drumfreis—xxvj s [310]

Item, a bonnet sent to his grace at Dumfries, 26s.

July 1547

 85

Item þe first day of Julii boucht at Williame craik to be ane ryding cote to my lorde gouernourres grace ix quartaris Inglische russate price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x d

Item, the first day of July, bought at William Craig, to be a riding coat for my lord governor’s grace, 2¼ ells of English russet, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 0s 10d.85

Item boucht at hew douglas wyf to bordour þe said cote half an elne and half ane quartar gray welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xliij s ix d

Item, bought at Hugh Douglas’ wife to border the said coat ⅝ ell of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 43s 9d.

Item þe samyn tyme furneist be Archiebald dewar to be ane cote to my lorde gouernour and ane cloke ix elnis and ane half of spanȝe freis price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xj s

Item, at the same time, furnished by Archibald Dewar to be a coat for my lord governor and a cloak, 9½86 ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.

Item ane dosoun of buttonis to þis cote— iiij s

Item, 12 buttons for this coat, 4s.

Item viij elnis bukrame to lyne baith þir cotis price of þe elne v s Summa—xl s

Item, 8 ells of buckram to line both these coats, price of each ell 5s; total: 40s.

Item tua elnis taffate to be him belt and gartanis price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells taffeta to be belt and garters for him, price 32s.

The total should be £4 1s. The correct amount is 4½, not 9½.

 86

18 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item boucht at hew douglas wyf to be his grace ane doublat thre elnis & half ane quartar of sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li v s

Item, bought at Hugh Douglas’ wife, to be a doublet for his grace, 3⅛ ells of satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £6 5s.

Item to lyne þe said doublat thre elnis & half ane quartar fustiane price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xiiij s j d

Item, to line the said doublet 3⅛ ells of fustian, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 14s 1d.

Item for canves to stent þe said doublat—iij s

Item, for canvas to stiffen the said doublet, 3s.

Item thre dosoun of buttonnes to it and þe russate coate aboue writtin—xij s [314]

Item, 36 buttons for it and the russet coat above written, 12s.

Item thre dosoun silk pointtis to my lorde gouernour—viij s

Item, 36 silk points for my lord governor, 8s.

Item deliuerrit to Besse murray to be his grace naipkynnes ane elne and ane half hollande claith price of þe elne xiiij s Summa— xxj s

Item, delivered to Bessie Murray to be handkerchiefs for his grace, 1½ ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item ane hanke of gold to þe said naipkynnes—xiiij s

Item, a hank of gold for the said handkerchiefs, 14s.

…

…

Item iiij pair of gluffis to his grace—viij s [316]

Item, 4 pairs of gloves for his grace, 8s.

Item þe first day of Julii be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to George ferre furrour send to Linlithgw to handill and dres certane habulȝeamentis thair of my lorde gouernouris quhilkes clathis wes Lynit wt furringes—xx s [318]

Item, the first day of July, by my lord governor’s special command, to George Ferre, furrier, sent to Linlithgow to handle and dress certain habiliments there of my lord governor’s, which clothes were lined with furrings, 20s.

Item to his graces furrour for his expensis in linlithgw be þe space of viij dayes—xliiij s

Item, to his grace’s furrier for his expenses in Linlithgow for the space of 8 days, 44s.

…

…

Item to þe skynnarres boy In drinksiluer for my lorde gouernoures gluffis—xij d [319]

Item, to the skinner’s boy in drinksilver for my lord governor’s gloves, 12d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 18 9

August 1547

 87

Item thre elnis purpure taffate armosene to couer ane Jak of my lorde gouernoures price of þe elne xxx s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 3 ells of purple armosene taffeta to cover a jack of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 30s; total: £4 10s.

Item þe samyn tyme to couer his Jak of new agane becaus his grace stude nocht content wt þe first coueryng thre elnis & ane quartar of purpure welwote price of þe elne iiij li x s Summa—xiij li

Item, at the same time, to cover his jack new again, because his grace stood not content with the first covering, 3¼ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £4 10s; total: £13.87

Item vij quartaris of þis same welwote to couer ane pair of arme splenttis of his graces price of þe elne iiij li x s Summa—viij li v s

Item, 1¾ ells of this same velvet to cover a pair of arm guards of his grace’s, price of each ell £4 10s; total: £8 5s.88

Item ane elne and ane quartar of þis same welwote to couer ane aproun of plate of his graces price—v li ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of this same velvet to cover an apron of plate of his grace’s, price £5 0s 9d.89

Item tua elnis thre quartarris of fustiane to lyne þis aproun & splentis þe elne vj s Summa—xvj s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to line this apron and guards, each ell 6s; total: 16s 6d.

Item for nalis to said aproun and splentis— xxxviij s

Item, for nails for the said apron and guards, 38s.

Item for gylting of þir nalis—iij li

Item, for gilding of these nails, £3.

Item to Jhonne clerk for making of þis Jak aproun and splenttis—x li

Item, to John Clerk for making of this jack, apron, and guards, £10.

Item for fustiane & canves to þe lyning of þis Jak—xxiiij s [321]

Item, for fustian and canvas for the lining of this jack, 24s.

Item for ane dosoun of sylkin pointtis—ij s iiij d [322]

Item, for 12 silk points, 2s 4d.

Curiously, all of the totals for the three pieces of purple velvet listed here are wrong. This total should be £14 12s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were £4 instead of £4 10s. Unfortunately, that solution doesn’t work for the other two items.  88 The total should be £7 17s 6d.  89 The total should be £5 12s 6d.

19 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar blak welwote to be tua pair of schone to my lorde gouernour price—xliij s ix d

Item, ⅝ ell of black velvet to be two pairs of shoes for my lord governor, price 43s 9d.

…

…

Item v quartaris bukrame to be his grace ane pair of sokes price of þe elne iiij s viij d Summa—v s x d [323]

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for his grace, price of each ell 4s 8d; total: 5s 10d.

September 1547 Item þe secund day of September to þe Browdstar for making and browdering of my lord gouernourres pynsaill And cording of þe croce with gold vpoun his graces Jak—iij li

Item, the second day of September, to the embroiderer for making and embroidering of my lord governor’s pennant and cording with gold the cross on his grace’s jack, £3.

Item þe xxv day of September for ane elne and ane half quartar of vterfyne to be hois to my lord gouernour boucht in striuiling efter þe feild of pynke cleuche price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, the 25th day of September, for 1⅛ ells of utterfine to be hose for my lord governor, bought in Stirling after the battle of Pinkie Cleugh, price of each ell 32s; total: 36s.

Item half ane elne of welwote to bordour þir hois—xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to border these hose, 35s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þame—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for them, 32s.

Item reid to lyne þame—ix s

Item, red to line them, 9s.

Item making of þame—vj s [328]

Item, making of them, 6s.

Item to Robert gourlay to by robanys to ane goun of my lorde gouernourres—iiij s vj d [329]

Item, to Robert Gourlay, to buy ribbons for a gown of my lord governor’s, 4s 6d.

Item to Besse murray to by gold to certane napkynnes of my lord gouernoures—vij s [330]

Item, to Bessie Murray to buy gold for certain handkerchiefs of my lord governor’s, 7s.

Item xxo septembris ane blak marrebas bonet to my lorde gouernour—xxviij s

Item, September 20th, a black marabas bonnet for my lord governor, 28s.

Item xxvijto fyve elnis and ane half fyne spanȝe freis to be ane cloke & ane cote to my lord gouernour þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li xviij s

Item, [September] 27th, 5½ ells of fine Spanish frieze to be a cloak and a coat for my lord governor, each ell 36s; total: £9 18s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 19 1

Item foure elnis blak bukrame to lyne þis cote þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of black buckram to line this coat, each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item tua elnis blak fustiane to þe bodyis of þis cote price—xvij s

Item, 2 ells of black fustian for the bodies of this coat, price 17s.

Item for a dosoun buttonnes to þis cote— viij s

Item, for 12 buttons for this coat, 8s.

Item ij dosoun silkyn pointtis—vj s

Item, 24 silk points, 6s.

Item coft ane other bonet to his grace becaus he plesit not þe fynnes of þe first—xxiiij s

Item, bought another bonnet for his grace because he was not pleased with the fineness of the first, 24s.

Item vj quartares culour robanis to his graces ordoure—ij s

Item, 1½ ells of colored ribbons for his grace’s order,90 2s.

Item for making of þir clathis to ane talȝeoure in Striuiling—xxvj s viij d

Item, for making of these clothes by a tailor in Stirling, 26s 8d.

Item to his seruandes quhat sat up be þe space of ane nyt for expeditioun of þir clathis—xxij s [331]

Item, to his servants who sat up for the space of a night for expeditious completion of these clothes, 22s.

Item to Robert gourlay to pas to Striuiling to get agane ane part of my lord gouernoures clathis tynt þe tyme of þe feild & to him to mak his expensis—xliiij s [332]

Item, to Robert Gourlay to travel to Stirling to replace a part of my lord governor’s clothes lost [or spoiled] at the time of the battle and for him to reimburse his expenses, 44s.

October 1547

 90

Item primo Octobris for half ane elne of blake welwote to couer ane pair of pantounes to my lorde gouernour—xxxvj s

Item, October 1st, for ½ ell of black velvet to cover a pair of slippers [or overshoes] for my lord governor, 36s.

Item ane Cais of kamys to his grace—ix s

Item, a case of combs for his grace, 9s.

Item ane bonet Cais—iiij s

Item, a bonnet case, 4s.

Item thre dosoun of pointtis—vj s

Item, 36 points, 6s.

Item ane lokit bonet cais to his grace—xiiij s

Item, a locked bonnet case for his grace, 14s.

The ribbons were to hang a pendant representing the Regent’s membership in the Order of St. Michael (also known as the Order of the Cockle), which he wore around his neck [see record 658].

192

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre pair of gluffis—vj s

Item, three pairs of gloves, 6s.

Item ane spwnge—iij s [333]

Item, a sponge, 3s.

Item to lyne ane doublat of sating of my lorde gouernoures þe sating gottin fra Dauid fostar thre elnis and ane quartar fustiane—xxs vj d

Item, to line a doublet of satin of my lord governor’s, the satin gotten from David Foster, 3¼ ells of fustian, 20s 6d.

Item to be þis doublat thre elnis ane quartar sating price of þe elne xxxvj s þe sating boucht fra Dauid forstar Summa—iiij li xij d [334]

Item, to be this doublet 3¼ ells of satin, price of each ell 36s; the satin bought from David Foster, total: £4 0s 12d.91

Item for fyve quartaris blak to be his grace hois boucht in Edinburt—lvij s

Item, for 1¼ ells of black to be hose for his grace, bought in Edinburgh, 57s.

Item half ane elne and ane quartar welwote to þe said hois pryce—xliij s ix d

Item, ¾ ell of velvet for the said hose, price 43s 9d.

Item sylk to sew þe samyn—iij s

Item, silk to sew the same, 3s.

Item […] reid to lyne þame—xvj s vj d [335]

Item, … red to line them, 16s 6d.

November 1547

 91

Item for tua dosoun of sylkyn poyntis to my lorde gouernoures Jak aproun and slewis— vj s

Item, for 24 silk points for my lord governor’s jack apron and sleeves, 6s.

Item for fyve elnis gray to lyne certane clathis of my lorde gouernoures price of þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—xvj s viij d

Item, for 5 ells of gray to line certain clothes of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 3s 4d; total: 16s 8d.

Item vij quartaris taffate to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour pryce of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of taffeta to be belt and garters for my lord governor, price of each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item for ane spunge to his graces chalmer— ij s vj d

Item, for a sponge for his grace’s chamber, 2s 6d.

The total should be £5 17s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 2¼ instead of 3¼.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 193

Item tua dosoun of pointtis to his graces hois—v s

Item, 24 points for his grace’s hose, 5s.

Item for thre pair of gluffis to his grace—vj s [338]

Item, for three pairs of gloves for his grace, 6s.

December 1547

 92

Item to be my lord gouernoure ane cote sex elnis fyne blak welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxiiij li

Item, to be a coat for my lord governor, 6 ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £24.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote þe elne iiij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, each ell 4s; total: 16s.

Item tua elnis blak fusteane to lyne þe bodyis of þis cote withall price of þe elne viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of black fustian to line the bodies of this coat with, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item for goldyn pasmentis to þe said cote— viij li viij s [340]

Item, for golden passementeries for the said coat, £8 8s.

Item half ane elne of blak taffate of þe corde to be gartanis to his grace—xij s

Item, ½ ell of black taffeta of the cord to be garters for his grace, 12s.

Item tua pair of gluffis—iiij s

Item, two pairs of gloves, 4s.

Item half ane elne of reid taffate of þe corde to be gartanis to his grace—xij s

Item, ½ ell of red taffeta of the cord to be garters for his grace, 12s.

Item ane bonet to his grace—xxij s

Item, a bonnet for his grace, 22s.

Item vj quartares of robane sylk to his graces ordoure—ij s [341]

Item, 1½ ells of ribbon silk for his grace’s order,92 2s.

Item for foure doubill pyppanis of quhite silke deliuerit to Robene gourlay to dres a part of my lord gouernoures clething—iij s

Item, for four double pippans of white silk, delivered to Robin93 Gourlay to dress a part of my lord governor’s clothing, 3s.

Item at his graces commande to Robert Gourlayis self—xliiij s [342]

Item, at his grace’s command, to Robert Gourlay’s self, 44s.

See note 90, above. Robin is a nickname for Robert.

 93

194

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

January 1547/48 Item ane cappadosye of welwote to my lorde gouernour price—xxij s

Item, a cap [or hood] of velvet for my lord governor, price 22s.

Item v quartaris bukram to be his grace sokkis price—vj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be socks for his grace, price 6s 3d.

Item ane pair of spurris—iij s

Item, a pair of spurs, 3s.

Item vj elnis blak welwote to be my lorde gouernour ane cloke cote þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xxij li x s

Item, 6 ells of black velvet to be a cloak coat for my lord governor, each ell £3 15s; total: £22 10s.

Item four elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote þe elne iiij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, each ell 4s; total: 16s.

Item tua elnis gray to þis cote—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray for this coat, 9s.

Item j dosoun & ane half silkyn buttounes— vj s

Item, 18 silk buttons, 6s.

Item xij elnis pasmentis to þis cote—xxxvj s [346]

Item, 12 ells of passementerie for this coat, 36s.

February 1547/48 Item to be my lorde gouernourres grace ane Ryding cote thre elnis fyne Inglische russat price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, to be my lord governor’s grace a riding coat, 3 ells of fine English russet, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item to begary þis same cote vij quartarres tannye welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, to decorate this same coat, 1¾ ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £7.

Item thre vnce of sewing sylk boucht be Archibald Dewar to sew þe said cote price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xxvij s

Item, 3 ounces of sewing silk bought by Archibald Dewar to sew the said coat, price of each ounce 9s; total: 27s.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item xviij buttounes to it—iij s

Item, 18 buttons for it, 3s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half pareis blake to be theis of hois to his grace price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxvj s ix d

Item, ⅞ ell of Paris black to be thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell 42s; total: 36s 9d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 19 5

Item thre quartaris fyne welwote to bordoure þe hois pryce—iij li

Item, ¾ ell of fine velvet to border the hose, price £3.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furthe þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane vnce of silk to sew þe welwote vpoun þir hois—ix s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew the velvet upon these hose, 9s.

Item thre quartaris demygrane to lyne þir hois price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxj s

Item, ¾ ell of demigrain to line these hose, price of each ell 28s; total: 21s.

Item to Archibald dewar for ane elne and half quartar of stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois pryce of þe elne xlviij s Summa—liiij s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for 1⅛ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, price of each ell 48s; total: 54s.

Item to bordoure ane cote of taffate of Cowgrane to his grace þe taffate send furth of france be my lorde secretar nyne quartaris fyne blak welwote bouchte fra James Steuinsoun price of þe elne iiij li Summa— ix li x s

Item, to border a coat of taffeta of grosgrain for his grace, the taffeta sent forth from France by my lord Secretary, 2¼ ells of fine black velvet bought from James Stevenson, price of each ell £4; total: £9 10s.

Item thre vnce sewing silk to sew þe bordourres vpoun þis cote price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xxvij s

Item, 3 ounces of sewing silk to sew the borders upon this coat, price of each ounce 9s; total: 27s.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item ane dosoun of buttones to it—iiij s [350]

Item, 12 buttons for it, 4s.

Item to Elizabeth flemyng for xxtj elnis hollande claith deliuerit to Besse murray to be sarkis nychtcurchayes and codwaris to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xiiij li

Item, to Elizabeth Fleming for 20 ells of Holland cloth delivered to Bessie Murray to be shirts, night kerchiefs, and pillowcases for my lord governor, price of each ell 14s; total: £14.

Item to hir for coueringes of ledder to þir coddis dounes and otherres necessares— xxviij s

Item, to her for coverings of leather for these pillowcases, downs, and other necessities, 28s.

Item tua dosoun of pointtis to his grace—vj s

Item, 24 points for his grace, 6s.

19 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to Jhonne clerk to by ane couering to my lorde gouernourres Jak—xxiiij s

Item, to John Clerk to buy a covering for my lord governor’s jack, 24s.

Item to him for lynnyng and making þairof—xxix s [351]

Item, to him for lining and making thereof, 29s.

March 1547/48 Item to James danyelstoun tailȝeoure for ane doublat of canves maid to my lorde gouernoure at drumfreis—xliiij s

Item, to James Danielston, tailor, for a doublet of canvas made for my lord governor at Dumfries, 44s.

Item vij pair of gluffis to his grace and fyve to þe maister his sone—xxj s

Item, seven pairs of gloves for his grace, and five for the Master his son, 21s.

…

…

Item thre elnis and ane quartar fyne blak sating to be ane doublat to my lord gouernoures grace price of the elne xlij s Summa—vj li xvj s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of fine black satin to be a doublet for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell 42s; total: £6 16s 6d.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar fyne blak fustiane to lyne þis doublat pryce of þe elne vij s Summa—xxij s ix d

Item, 3¼ ells of fine black fustian to line this doublet, price of each ell 7s; total: 22s 9d.

Item ane elne of canves to it—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas for it, 4s.

Item buttonis to it—iij s [354]

Item, buttons for it, 3s.

Item to James hammiltoun of orbistoun þt he debursit for schone and gluffis to my lorde gouernour in Sanct Johnnstoun—­ xxiiij s [355]

Item, to James Hamilton of Orbiston that he spent for shoes and gloves for my lord governor in Saint Johnstown, 24s.

Item ane elne of hollande claith to be my lorde gouervour naipkynnes—xvj s

Item, 1 ell of Holland cloth to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, 16s.

…

…

Item half ane elne and half quartar welwote boucht at James stewinstoun to be schone to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne iiij li Summa—l s [357]

Item, ⅝ ell of velvet bought at James Stevenson to be shoes for my lord governor, price of each ell £4; total: 50s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 197

April 1548

 94

Item xiijo Aprilis boucht fra maister James Lindesay thre elnis and half ane quartar blak sating to be ane doublat to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li xij s vj d

Item, April 13th, bought from Master James Lindsay 3⅛ ells of black satin to be a doublet for my lord governor, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 12s 6d.

Item foure elnis and ane quartar of pasmentis to þis doublat price of þe elne ij s Summa—viij s vj d

Item, 4¼ ells of passementerie for this doublet, price of each ell 2s; total: 8s 6d.

Item ane quartar of ane vnce of silk to the samyn doublat—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce of silk for the same doublet, 2s.

Item xviij buttonis to it—iiij s vj d

Item, 18 buttons for it, 4s 6d.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar fustiane to lyne it, pryce of þe elne v s Summa—xvj s iij d

Item, 3¼ ells of fustian to line it, price of each ell 5s; total: 16s 3d.

Item coft fra James barroun to be ane pair stokes of hois to my lord gouernour x quarteris blak welwote pryce of þe elne iij li x s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, bought from James Barroun to be a pair of stocks of hose for my lord governor, 2½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £8 15s.

Item tua elnis taffate of foure thredis to lyne þame pryce of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line them, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item boucht fra þe said James berroun to be his grace ane pair of theis of hois thre quartarris and ane half of pareis blak pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, bought from the said James Barroun to be a pair of thighs of hose for his grace, ⅞ ell of Paris black, price of each ell 36s; total: 31s 6d.

Item boucht fra James stewinsoun ane elne and half ane quartar stemmyng of myllane to be schankes to þir hois price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xlix s

Item, bought from James Stevenson, 1⅛ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, price of each ell 44s; total: 49s.94

Item thre quartaris and ane half of blak welwote to bordoure þir hois, þe elne iij li x s Summa—iij li xv d

Item, ⅞ ell of black velvet to border these hose, each ell £3 10s; total: £3 0s 15d.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

The total should be 49s 6d.

19 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne and ane quartar of demygrane to lyne þir welwote and claith hois of my lorde gouernoures þe elne xxviij s Summa— xxxj s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of demigrain to line these velvet and cloth hose of my lord governor’s, each ell 28s; total: 31s 6d.95

Item boucht fra James barroun and gevyn to Archiebald dewar to steik þir hois tua vnce sewing silk price—xviij s

Item, bought from James Barroun and given to Archibald Dewar to sew these hose, 2 ounces of sewing silk, price 18s.

Item v quartarres bukrum to be ane pair of sokis to his grace boucht at James Stevinsoun—vj s iiij d

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for his grace, bought at James Stevenson, 6s 4d.

Item foure pair of gluffis to my lorde gouernour—viij s [373]

Item, four pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 8s.

Item to George ferre furrour to my lorde gouernoures grace for his feyis lauboures & furnesing of ane part of furring to my lord gouernour & his grace barnis clathis—xxviij li viij s [375]

Item, to George Ferre, furrier to my lord governor’s grace, for his fees, labors, and furnishing of part of a furring for my lord governor and his grace’s children’s clothes, £28 8s.

May 1548 Item xv to Maii half ane elne and half ane quartar stemmyng to be my lorde gouernoure ane pair of schankes of hois price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xxviij s ix d [378]

Item, May 15th, ⅝ ell of stemming to be a pair of legs of hose for my lord governor, price of each ell 46s; total: 28s 9d.

June 1548

 95

Item ixno Junii foure elne and ane half of spanȝe freis to be my lorde gouernour ane cote and ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li

Item, June 9th, 4½ ells of Spanish frieze to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £9.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item to Robert gourlay to by certane sewing gold to naipkynnes of my lorde gouernoures and to by sylk pointtis to his grace—xxij s vj d

Item, to Robert Gourlay to buy certain sewing gold for handkerchiefs of my lord governor’s, and to buy silk points for his grace, 22s 6d.

Item ane bonet cais to his grace—iiij s

Item, a bonnet case for his grace, 4s.

This total would be correct for 1⅛ ells of fabric, so it is likely that the scribe left out the word “half ” (i.e., the correct amount of fabric was probably “ane elne and half ane quarter”).



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 19 9

 96

Item thre elnis and ane quartar blak sating to be his grace ane doublat price of the þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li xvij s

Item, 3¼ ells of black satin to be a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 17s.

Item thre elnis ane quartar quhite fustiane to lyne þe said doublat þe elne v s Summa— xvj s iij d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line the said doublet, each ell 5s; total: 16s 3d.

Item foure elnis & ane half reid satyng to be his grace ane doublat and stokis of hois price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—ix li xix s

Item, 4½ ells of red satin to be a doublet and stocks of hose for his grace, price of each ell 44s; total: £9 19s.96

Item xvj elnis pasmentis half gold half silk to my lordes grace goun & cote of blak welwote þe elne x s Summa—viij li

Item, 16 ells of passementerie (half gold, half silk) for my lord grace’s gown and coat of black velvet, each ell 10s; total: £8.

Item ane elne of canves to be stenting to þis doublat—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to be stiffening for this doublet, 4s.

Item v elnis and ane half of reid taffate to lyne my lord gouernoures cassok of reid welwote þe welwote his awyn price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iiij li xix s

Item, 5½ ells of red taffeta to line my lord governor’s cassock of red velvet, the velvet his own, price of each ell 18s; total: £4 19s.

Item to be gartanis and belt to his grace vij quartaris reid taffate þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, to be garters and belt for his grace, 1¾ ells of red taffeta, each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item vij quarteris blak taffateis to be him belt and gartanis price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta to be belt and garters for him, price of each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item four thre elnis and ane half of franche blak to be his grace ane ryding cloke þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, 3½ ells of French black to be a riding cloak for his grace, each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item vj quartaris blak welwote to walt þe same þe elne iij li xv s Summa—v li xij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of black velvet to trim the same, each ell £3 15s; total: £5 12s 6d.

Item for ane bair hat of felt to mak ane welwote hat to my lorde gouernour—v s

Item, for a bare hat of felt to make a velvet hat for my lord governor, 5s.

Item for ane elne of welwote to couer þe said hat—iij li xv s

Item, for an ell of velvet to cover the said hat, £3 15s.

…

…

The total should be £9 18s.

20 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item iij elnis ane quartar blak sating to be his grace ane doublat þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li xvij s

Item, 3¼ ells of black satin to be a doublet for his grace, each ell 36s; total: £5 17s.

Item vij elnis of galdyn pasmentis to my Lord gouernoures reid cassok þe elne xiiij s Summa—iiij li xviij s

Item, 7 ells of golden passementerie for my lord governor’s red cassock, each ell 14s; total: £4 18s.

…

…

Item tua dosoun quhite silkyn pointis deliuerit to Robene gourlay—v s

Item, 24 white silk points delivered to Robin Gourlay, 5s.

Item coft xv elnis galdyn pasmentis to my Lord gouernoure þe elne xv s Summa—xj li v s

Item, bought 15 ells of golden passementerie for my lord governor, each ell 15s; total: £11 5s.

Item vj ds silkyn pointtis to his grace—xiiij s [383]

Item, 72 silk points for his grace, 14s.

July 1548 Item thre pair of gluffis to my lord gouernour—vj s [387]

Item, three pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 6s.

Item to Danyelstoun tailȝeoure to mak my Lorde gouernoures welwote hat—xxij s vj d [392]

Item, to Danielston, tailor, to make my lord governor’s velvet hat, 22s 6d.

August 1548 Item xvijto Augusti tua elnis fyne freis & ane half elne to be ane cloke to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xl s Summa v li

Item, August 17th, 2½ ells fine frieze to be a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item þe same day ane fyne blak bonet to his grace—xxviij s [395]

Item, the same day, a fine black bonnet for his grace, 28s.

Item to be my lord gouernour ane bonet and to couer hir ane hat vj quartaris fyne welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, to be a bonnet for my lord governor and to cover a hat for her [Lady Barbara], 1½ ells of fine velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £6.

…

…



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 20 1

Item ane kais of kamys to my lord gouernour—xiiij s

Item, a case of combs for my lord governor, 14s.

…

…

Item foure elnis taffate of corde to be ane bend to my lord Gouernour—iiij li xvj s

Item, 4 ells of taffeta of cord to be a band? for my lord governor, £4 16s.

Item for translating of þe armys of my lord gouernoures coffer clathis—xiiij s

Item, for translating of the arms of my lord governor’s coffer clothes, 14s.

Item half ane elne of quhite sating send to his grace—xx s

Item, ½ ell of white satin sent to his grace, 20s.

Item thre elnis of blak rebanis to his graces ordour—iiij s vj d [397]

Item, 3 ells of black ribbons for his grace’s order, 4s 6d.97

September 1548 Item thre pair of gluffis to his grace—vj s

Item, three pairs of gloves for his grace, 6s.

Item to Gilbert hay for goldyn pasmentis to my lorde gouernoures grace goun—iiij li x s [399]

Item, to Gilbert Hay for golden passementerie for my lord governor’s grace’s gown, £4 10s.

October 1548

 97

Item thre elnis and ane quartar of rowane tannye to be ane cloke to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa v li x s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of Rouen tawny to be a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 34s; total: £5 10s 6d.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar of reid welwote to vane þis cloik price—l s [406]

Item, ⅝ ell of red velvet to trim this cloak, price 50s.

Item be his graces spetiall commande to maister Alexander forres for certane clething furnist to his graces self as þe said /m/ Alexanderris compt heir present to schew beris—xxxij li xj s vj d [408]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Master Alexander Forest for certain clothing furnished to his grace’s self, as the said Master Alexander’s account here present to show bears out, £32 11s 6d.

Item v pair of gluvis to my lorde gouernour— x s [411]

Item, 5 pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 10s.

See note 90, above.

202

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

November 1548

 98

Item xo Nouembris deliuerit to Robert gourlay to be sarkis to my lord gouernoure xviij elnis round hollande claith price of þe elne ix s Summa—viij li ij s

Item, November 10th, delivered to Robert Gourlay to be shirts for my lord governor, 18 ells of heavy Holland cloth, price of each ell 9s; total: £8 2s.

Item þe samyn day deliuerit to þe said Robert to be his grace sarkis and naipkynnes xvj elnis small hollande claith quhairof iiij elnis cost xv s þe elne þe other xij elnis & ane half cost xij s þe elne Summa—x li ij s vj d

Item, the same day, delivered to the said Robert to be shirts and handkerchiefs for his grace, 16 ells of fine Holland cloth, whereof 4 ells cost 15s each ell, the other 12½ ells cost 12s each ell; total: £10 2s 6d.98

Item gevin to corde þir naipkynnes tua half hankes of sewing gold price—xvj s

Item, given to cord these handkerchiefs, two half hanks of sewing gold, price 16s.

Item þe xxviij day of Nouember foure elnis & ane half spanȝe freis to be my lorde gouernoure ane cote and ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li

Item, the 28th day of November, 4½ ells of Spanish frieze, to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £9.

Item foure elnis bukrame to lyne þis cote price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item ane dosoun and ane half of buttones to þis cote price of þe dosoun iij s Summa—iiij s vj d [412]

Item, 18 buttons for this coat, price of each dozen, 3s; total: 4s 6d.

Item viij pair of gluffis to my lorde gouernoure—xvj s

Item, 8 pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 16s.

Item to þe boy In drinksilwer—xij d

Item, to the boy99 in drinksilver, 12d.

Item vij quarteris taffate to be belt and gartanis to my lord gouernour boucht In Glasqw price of þe elne xviij s Summa xxxij s vj d [414]

Item, 1¾ ells of taffeta to be belt and garters for my lord governor, bought in Glasgow, price of each ell 18s; total: 32s 6d.100

Not only do 4 and 12½ not add up to the 16 ells mentioned in this line item, the total given is incorrect for 16½ ells at the prices listed. However, 3½ ells at 15s per ell and 12½ ells at 12s per ell add up to the total amount of fabric and price listed in the manuscript.  99 The boy was probably the skinner’s apprentice. 100 The total should be 31s 6d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 203

December 1548 Item to Robert gourlay to be bonettis to my lorde gouernoures grace aganis ȝule fyve quartaris fyne welwote þe elne iij li xv s Summa—iiij li xij s vj d

Item, to Robert Gourlay to be bonnets for my lord governor’s grace for Yule, 1¼ ells of fine velvet, each ell £3 15s; total: £4 12s 6d.101

Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be his grace schankis of hois þe elne xlviij s Summa—iij li

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs of hose for his grace, each ell 48s; total: £3.

Item thre dosoun sylkin pointtis—vij s vj d

Item, 36 silk points, 7s 6d.

Item ane sweird belt to my lord gouernoure—iij s

Item, a sword belt for my lord governor, 3s.

Item boucht fra James barroun to be ane doublat to my lord gouernour aganis ȝule thre elnis and ane quartar fyne sating price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vj li xvij s vj d

Item, bought from James Barroun to be a doublet for my lord governor for Yule, 3¼ ells of fine satin, price of each ell 42s; total: £6 17s 6d.102

Item thre elnis and ane quartar fustiane to lyne þis doublat þe elne vj s Summa—xx s vj d [420]

Item, 3¼ ells of fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 20s 6d.103

January 1548/49

101

Item boucht fra James stewinsoun to be ane pair of ryding hois to my lord gouernour thre quartaris and ane half franche blak price— xxix s iiij d

Item, bought from James Stevenson to be a pair of riding hose for my lord governor, ⅞ ell of French black, price 29s 4d.

Item thre quartaris of blak welwote to bordoure þir hois price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet to border these hose, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 56s 3d.

Item vj quartaris taffate of corde to lyne þir hois—xxxiij s ix d

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of cord to line these hose, 33s 9d.

Item ane vnce of silk to sew þir hois—vij s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew these hose, 7s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þir hois—xxij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line these hose, 22s 6d.

The total should be £4 13s 9d. The total should be £6 16s 6d. 103 The total should be 19s 6d. 102

20 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne and ane quartar of Stemmyng boucht at James barroun to be schankes to þir hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, 1¼ of stemming bought at James Barroun to be legs for these hose, price of each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

Item to Archibald dewar to lyne my lord gouernoures bonettis quhilk suld haue been maid at ȝule quartar and half quartar sating price—xv s [428]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, to line my lord governor’s bonnets which should have been made at Yule, ⅜ ell of satin, price 15s.

January 1548 Item tua elnis and ane half fyne hollande claith to be naipkynnes to my lorde gouernoure—xl s [429]

Item, 2½ ells of fine Holland cloth to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, 40s.

February 1548/49 Item iiijto februarii deliuerit to Archibald dewar thre elnis and ane half of quhite taffate of corde to lyne ane doublat of quhite sating and ane pair of hois of quhyte welwote of my lorde gouernoures the stuf his graces awyn price of þe elne xxij s vj d Summa—iij li xviij s ix d

Item, February 4th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 3½ ells of white taffeta of cord to line a doublet of white satin and a pair of hose of white velvet of my lord governor’s, the stuff his grace’s own, price of each ell 22s 6d; total: £3 18s 9d.

Item for buttonis to þis doublat—vj s

Item, for buttons for this doublet, 6s.

Item to be tua pair of schankis to þir hois ane elne of quhite stemmyng price—xvj s

Item, to be two pairs of legs for these hose, an ell of white stemming, price 16s.

Item for silkin pointtis to þir hois—iij s

Item, for silk points for these hose, 3s.

Item to lyne þis doublat thre elnis and ane quartar of quhite fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xix s vj d

Item, to line this doublet, 3¼ ells of white fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, 4s.

Item ane elne of quhite welwote fra James lowrye to be schone to his grace—iiij li [435]

Item, an ell of white velvet from James Lowry to be shoes for his grace, £4.

Item ane elne quhite taffate of þe corde to be belt and gartanis to my lord gouernour—xxij s vj d [437]

Item, an ell of white taffeta of the cord to be belt and garters for my lord governor, 22s 6d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 20 5

Item tua elnis robanis to my lord gouernoures ordor—v s [441]

Item, 2 ells of ribbons for my lord governor’s order, 5s.104

March 1548/49 Item vijo Marchii boucht at williame craik to be ane ryding cote and ane cloke to my lorde gouernoure foure elnis thre quartaris fyne Londoun russat price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li x s

Item, March 7th, bought at William Craik to be a riding coat and a cloak for my lord governor, 4¾ ells of fine London russet, price of each ell 40s; total: £9 10s.

Item to bordour þis cote and cloke thre elnis and ane quartar of gray welwote price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xj li xiiij s

Item, to border this coat and cloak, 3¼ ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £11 14s.

Item ane elne of canves to lyne þe bodyis of þis cote price—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to line the bodies of this coat, price 4s.

Item x quartaris blak fustiane to be slewis and bodyis of þis coit boucht at James carmychaell þe elne vij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of black fustian to be sleeves and bodies of this coat, bought at James Carmichael, each ell 7s; total: 17s 6d.

Item for gray silk to þe bordoring of þis cote and cloke—xxiij s vj d

Item, for gray silk for the bordering of this coat and cloak, 23s 6d.

Item thre elnis blak gray to lyne þis cote price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 3 ells of black gray to line this coat, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 13s 6d.

Item thre dosoun and thre buttonis to þis cote & cloke—ix s ix d [449]

Item, 39 buttons for this coat and cloak, 9s 9d.

Item viij pair of gluffis to my lord gouernour—xvj s [450]

Item, 8 pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 16s.

Item vij quartaris blak taffate boucht at James berron to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s [451]

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta bought at James Berroun, to be belt and garters for my lord governor, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

April 1549 Item deliuerit to myrreleis cordinar half ane elne and half ane quartar of welwote to be my lorde gouernoure schone price of þe elne iij li xiiij s Summa—xlvj s iij d [461]

104

See note 90, above.

Item, delivered to Myrreleis, cordwainer, ⅝ ell of velvet to be shoes for my lord governor, price of each ell £3 14s; total: 46s 3d.

20 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

May 1549 Item xm Maii to margaret creichtoun ane doubill hanke of sewing gold to ane sark of my lorde gouernoures price þairof—xxxij s

Item, May 10th, to Margaret Crichton, a double hank of sewing gold for a shirt of my lord governor’s, price thereof 32s.

Item to hir mair half ane hanke of sewing siluer—xvj s

Item, to her also, half a hank of sewing silver, 16s.

Item mair ane vnce of sewing silk—v s [470]

Item, also, an ounce of sewing silk, 5s.

Item xjo Maii to Archiebald dewar ane elne and half ane quartar fyne welwote to be tua bonettis to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne iiij li Summa—iiij li x s

Item, May 11th, to Archibald Dewar, 1⅛ ells of fine velvet to be two bonnets for my lord governor, price of each ell £4; total: £4 10s.

Item ane quartar of ane elne of sating to lyne þir bonettis price—ix s

Item, ¼ ell of satin to line these bonnets, price 9s.

Item ane elne of bukrame to þame—v s

Item, an ell of buckram for them, 5s.

Item ix elnis taffate armosene to be ane goun & cote to his grace price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xviij li xviij s

Item, 9 ells of armosene taffeta to be a gown and coat for his grace, price of each ell 42s; total: £18 18s.

Item tane fra williame craik to eik furth þis goun v quartaris of þis same sort of taffate þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, taken from William Craik to enlarge this gown, 1¼ ells of this same sort of taffeta, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item ix elnis and ane half blak fustiane to þis goun and cote price of þe elne ix s Summa— iiij li v s vj d

Item, 9½ ells of black fustian for this gown and coat, price of each ell 9s; total: £4 5s 6d.

Item thre vnce and ane half of parys sylk to þis goun and cote price of þe vnce x s Summa—xxxv s

Item, 3½ ounces of Paris silk for this gown and coat, price of each ounce 10s; total: 35s.

Item tua elnis taffate of genis to bordoure þis goun price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of Genoa to border this gown, price 32s.

Item boucht at williame craik to be his grace ane doublat nyne quartaris armosene taffateis price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, bought at William Craik, to be a doublet for his grace, 2¼ ells of armosene taffeta, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.



105

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 207

Item thre elnis and ane quartar quhite fustiane to lyne þis doublat þe elne vj s Summa—xxxix s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 39s 6d.105

Item an elne of canves to stent þis doublat— iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, 4s.

Item thre dosoun of buttonis of sylk to þis cote & doublat price of þe dosoun ij s viij d Summa—viij s

Item, 36 buttons of silk for this coat and doublet, price of each dozen 2s 8d; total: 8s.

Item tua elnis of fyne welwote to be stokis of hois to his grace þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of fine velvet to be stocks of hose for his grace, each ell £4; total £8.

Item tua elnis and ane half taffate to draw furth þir hois and narve þame—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose and trim them, 40s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þir hois price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line these hose, price of each ell 28s; total: 17s 6d.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xlix s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for these hose, price of each ell 44s; total: 49s 6d.

Item to Richart gray for xiij elnis hollande claith to be sarkis to his grace þe elne xv s vj d Summa—x li xviij d [471]

Item, to Richard Gray for 13 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for his grace, each ell 15s 6d; total: £10 0s 18d.

Item xiijo Maij tua elnis and ane half of freis boucht at Jhonne dougall to be my lorde gouernour ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, May 13th, 2½ ells of frieze, bought at John Dougal, to be a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item penultimo Maij boucht at williame craik to be ane doublat to my lorde gouernoure thre elnis and half ane quartar gray sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li v s

Item, the second to last day of May, bought at William Craik, to be a doublet for my lord governor, 3⅛ ells of gray satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £6 5s.

Item tua elnis gray welwote to be his grace stokis to ane pair of gray hois price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of gray velvet to be stocks for a pair of gray hose for his grace, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

Item tua elnis gray taffate to draw furth þir hois price—xxx s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to draw forth these hose, price 30s.

The correct total is 19s 6d.

20 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne and half ane quartar stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—xlix s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: 49s 6d.

Item tua elnis and ane half bertane canves to lyne þis doublat price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s

Item, 2½ ells Bretagne canvas to line this doublet, price of each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item ane elne of canves to stent it wt—iij s vj d

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen it with, 3s 6d.

Item thre quartaris braid reid to lyne þir hois Summa—xxj s

Item, ¾ ell of broad red to line these hose, total: 21s.

Item for buttonis to þis doublat—v s [473]

Item, for buttons for this doublet, 5s.

June 1549

106

Item boucht at Robert flemyng to be ane cote and ane goun to my lorde gouernoure xxiij elnis gray taffate price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxxix li ij s

Item, bought at Robert Fleming to be a coat and a gown for my lord governor, 23 ells gray taffeta, price of each ell 34s; total: £39 2s.

Item thre dosoun vij elnis an ane half pasmentis of gold and gray silk to þis goun cote and hois of gray welwote maid of before price of þe elne viij s Summa—xviij li viij s

Item, 43½ ells passementerie of gold and gray silk for this gown, coat and hose of gray velvet made before, price of each ell 8s; total: £18 8s.106

Item foure dosoun of buttonis to his graces cote and doublat þe buttonis of gray silk and gold price of þe dosoun xiiij s Summa—xlix s

Item, 48 buttons for his grace’s coat and doublet, the buttons of gray silk and gold, price of each dozen 14s; total: 49s.107

Item tua vnce pareis gray silk to þis cote doublat and goun price of þe vnce x s Summa—xx s

Item, 2 ounces of Paris gray silk for this coat, doublet and gown, price of each ounce 10s; total: 20s.

Item xj elnis and ane half blak fustiane to þis cote and goun price of þe elne ix s Summa—v li iij s vj d

Item, 11½ ells of black fustian for this coat and gown, price of each ell 9s; total: £5 3s 6d.

Item half ane elne of gray to þe collar and slewis of þis goune price—ij s vj d

Item, ½ ell of gray for the collar and sleeves of this gown, price 2s 6d.

The total should be £17 8s. The total should be 56s.

107



108

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 20 9

Item vij quartaris gray taffate to be belt and gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of gray taffeta to be belt and garters, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item thre dosoun gray sylkyn pointtis þe dosoun ij s iiij d Summa—vij s

Item, 36 gray silk points, each dozen 2s 4d; total: 7s.

Item thre elnis and ane half quhite canves to be ane doublat to my lorde gouernour þe elne v s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of white canvas to be a doublet for my lord governor, each ell 5s; total: 17s 6d.

Item vj quartaris bukrame to be sokis to his grace—vj s iij d

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to be socks for his grace, 6s 3d.

Item ix elnis and ane half hollande claith to be sarkis to my lorde gouernoure boucht at James berrounis price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, 9½ ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor, bought at James Berroun’s, price of each ell 14s; total: £6 6s.108

Item tua elnis and ane naill smallar hollande claith to be nekkis ruffis and sychtis at þe handis of þir sarkes þe elne xx s Summa—xlj s iij d

Item, 21⁄16 ells of finer Holland cloth to be necks, ruffs and cuffs at the hands of these shirts, each ell 20s, total: 41s 3d.

Item mair deliuerrit to Robert gourlay to be nycht curchays and naipkynnes to my lorde gouernour foure elnis hollande claith price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, also delivered to Robert Gourlay to be night kerchiefs and handkerchiefs for my lord governor, 4 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item thre quartaris of hankes of gold to þir naipkynnes—xxiiij s

Item, three quarters of hanks of gold for these handkerchiefs, 24s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar gray welwote to be tua pair of schone to his grace þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xlvj s x d ob

Item, ⅝ ell of gray velvet to be two pairs of shoes for his grace, each ell £3 15s; total: 46s 10½d.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar blak sating to be ane doublat to his grace boucht at James berrounis price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vj li xvij s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of black satin to be a doublet for his grace, bought at James Berroun’s, price of each ell 42s; total: £6 17s 6d.109

The total should be £6 13s. The total given would be correct if the amount of fabric were 9 ells instead of 9½. 109 The total should be £6 16s 6d.

210

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre elnis and ane quartar quhite fustiane to lyne þis doublat þe elne vj s Summa—xix s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent it—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen it, 4s.

Item xviij buttonis to þis doublat—iiij s vj d [474]

Item, 18 buttons for this doublet, 4s 6d.

Item on vitsonnday ixo Junii to his graces maister cordinarris seruvandes in drinksiluer—xxij s vj d [479]

Item, on Witsunday, June 9th, to his grace’s master cordwainer’s servants in drinksilver, 22s 6d.

Item to myrreleis cordinar to ane compte of his feyes butis schone and other necessares furnist to my lord gouernoures grace and his bairnis sen oure last compte maid at Sanctandros þe last of September In anno etc xlvjto to þis present moneth of Junii as his compte heir present to schew beris—lxx li xv s [481]

Item, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, for an account of his fees, boots, shoes, and other necessities furnished to my lord governor’s grace and his children, since our last accounting made at St. Andrews, the last of September in the year etc., [15]46 to this present month of June, as his account here present to show bears out, £70 15s.

July 1549 Item xvijo Julii to cover ane hat to my lord gouernoures grace thre quartaris and ane half fyne blak weluet—iij li

Item, July 17th, to cover a hat for my lord governor’s grace, ⅞ ell of fine black velvet, £3.

Item half ane elne sating to lyne þis hatt— xviij s

Item, ½ ell of satin to line this hat, 18s.

Item ane quartar vnce of silk till sew þis hat—ij s vj d

Item, a quarter ounce of silk to sew this hat, 2s 6d.

Item deliuert to his graces chalmer child robert gourlay to be sarkis to his grace xviij elnis holland clayt þe elne xiiij s Summa—xij li xij s

Item, delivered to his grace’s chamber child, Robert Gourlay, to be shirts for his grace, 18 ells of Holland cloth, each ell 14s; total: £12 12s.

Item thre vnce of small birge threid till sew thir sarkis—xv s

Item, 3 ounces of fine Bruges thread to sew these shirts, 15s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 211

Item þe samyn day to Archibald dewar fyue quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis of hois to his grace price of þe elne xliiij s—lv s

Item, the same day, to Archibald Dewar, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs of hose for his grace, price of each ell 44s; [total:] 55s.

Item for ane new hat of weluet to his /g/ bocht at william kar—iij li [483]

Item, for a new hat of velvet for his grace, bought at William Kerr, £3.

August 1549 Item primo Augusti to be my lorde gouernour belt and gartanis vij quartaris taffate of genis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, the first of August, to be belt and garters for my lord governor, 1¾ ells of taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item xij elnis tannye sating to be ane ny t goun to my lorde gouernoure boucht at Archibald dewar price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxiiij li

Item, 12 ells of tawny satin to be a night gown for my lord governor, bought at Archibald Dewar, price of each ell 40s; total: £24.

Item thre quartaris welwote to bordoure þis goun wt price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—lij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of velvet to border this gown with, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 52s 6d.

Item ane elne of bukrame to it—v s

Item, an ell of buckram for it, 5s.

Item thre elnis blak sating to be his grace ane cote boucht at þe said Archiebalde pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, 3 ells of black satin to be a coat for his grace, bought at the said Archibald, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item bukrame to it—iij s

Item, buckram for it, 3s.

Item vj quartaris sating to bande ane spanȝe cloik price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of satin to band a Spanish cloak, price of each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item thre quartarris sating to bordoure ane cote price—xxx s

Item, ¾ ell of satin to border a coat, price 30s.

Item tua vnces gret stoking silk to sew & steik þis cote and cloke—xx s

Item, 2 ounces great stitching? [stocking?] silk to sew and stitch [embroider?] this coat and cloak, 20s.

Item ane naill of quhite taffateis to put In his graces doublat—ij s vj d [487]

Item, 1⁄16 ell of white taffeta to put in his grace’s doublet, 2s 6d.

212

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

September 1549

110

Item iijo Septembris to myrreleis cordinar to be ane pair of schone and pantonis to my lorde gouernour ane elne of welwote—iij li xv s [492]

Item, September 3rd, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, to be a pair of shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for my lord governor, an ell of velvet, £3 15s.

Item xxiiijto Septembris deliuerit to Archiebald Dewar to be cote hois and bonettis to my lorde gouernour viij elnis and thre quartaris fyne blak welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxxv li

Item, September 24th, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be coat, hose, and bonnets for my lord governor, 8¾ ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £35.

Item xxxij elnis braid pasmentis of silk to þis coit bocht at dauid forstar þe elne x s—xvj li

Item, 32 ells of broad passementerie of silk for this coat, bought at David Forstar, each ell 10s; [total:] £16.

Item bocht mair fra þe said dauid thre score thre elnis trasing silk to þe samyn coit price of þe elne xij d Summa—iij li iij s

Item, bought also from the said David, 63 ells of tracing silk for the same coat, price of each ell 12d; total: £3 3s.

Item xviij buttonis to þis coit price—iiij s vj d

Item, 18 buttons for this coat, price 4s 6d.

Item tua vnce and ane quartar vnce parice silk to sew þe pasmentis and traiss of þe said coit þe vnce ix s Summa—xxs iij d

Item, 2¼ ounces of Paris silk to sew the passementerie and trim of the said coat, each ounce 9s; total: 20s 3d.

Item vij elnis blak fustiane to lyne þis coit price of þe elne viij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 7110 ells black fustian to line this coat, price of each ell 8s; total: £3 4s.

Item thre quartaris braid reid to lyne his graces hois price—xxj s

Item, ¾ ell of broad red to line his grace’s hose, price 21s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois price—lvij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for these hose, price 57s 6d.

Item boucht at James barroun to be ane doublet to my lord gouernoures grace thre elnis and ane quartar of fyne vynneis sating price of þe elne xlv s Summa—vij li vj s iij d

Item, bought at James Barroun to be a doublet for my lord governor’s grace, 3¼ ells of fine Venice satin, price of each ell 45s; total: £7 6s 3d.

The number of ells should be 8 instead of 7.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 213

Item thre elnis and ane quartar quhite fusteane to lyne þis doublet þe elne vj s Summa—xix s iij d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 19s 3d.111

Item ane elne of canves to stent þis doublet—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, 4s.

Item send wt champnay messinger to margaret criechtoun to my lord gouernoures sarkis tua half hankis of gold price xvj s—xxxij s

Item, sent with Champnay, messenger, to Margaret Crichton for my lord governor’s shirts, two half hanks of gold, price 16s; total: 32s.

Item siclike send wt him half ane hank of siluer—xviij s

Item, similarly sent with him, half a hank of silver, 18s.

Item to my lord gouernoures claytis iiij dosane silk poynttis price—x s

Item, for my lord governor’s clothes, 48 silk points, price 10s.

Item v quartaris bukrem to be ane pair of sokis to his grace—vj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for his grace, 6s 3d.

Item for buttonis to his graces doublet—iiij s vj d [494]

Item, for buttons for his grace’s doublet, 4s 6d.

October 1549

111

Item fyve elnis thre quartaris fyne crammosy weluot to be ane Jurnale to my lord gouernoures grace price of þe elne vij li x s Summa—xliij li ij s vj d

Item, 5¾ ells of fine crimson velvet to be a journey coat for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell £7 10s; total: £43 2s 6d.

Item thre elnis thre quartaris of taffate of þe cord reid to lyne þe samyn Jurnale price of þe elne xx s summa—iij li xv s

Item, 3¾ ells of taffeta of cord, red, to line the same journey coat, price of each ell 20s; total: £3 15s.

Item half ane vnce of reid silk to sew þe samyn—iiij s

Item, ½ ounce of red silk to sew the same, 4s.

Item sex elnis stemmyng of myllane to be ane coit and ane cloik to his grace price of þe elne xlv s Summa— xiij li x s

Item, 6 ells of stemming of Milan to be a coat and a cloak for his grace, price of each ell 45s; total: £13 10s.

Item ane quartar of blak taffate to lyne þe nek of þis cloik—iij s vj d

Item, ¼ ell of black taffeta to line the neck of this cloak, 3s 6d.

The total should be 19s 6d.

214

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item viij elnis fusteane to lyne þe rest of þe said coit price of þe elne ix s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 8 ells of fustian to line the rest of the said coat, price of each ell 9s; total: £3 12s.

…

…

Item to be pouchis to my lord gouernoures foresaid blak coit half ane elne of bukrem price—ij s ix d

Item, to be pockets for my lord governor’s aforesaid black coat, ½ ell of buckram, price 2s 9d.

Item iiij ds of butonis to þe said coit and to ane doublet of sating bocht at James barroun—xij s

Item, 48 buttons for the said coat and for a doublet of satin bought at James Barroun, 12s.

Item to be ane doublet to my lord gouernoris grace tua elnis and ane half gray taffate armosyne price of þe elne xxxvj s summa— iiij li x s

Item, to be a doublet for my lord governor’s grace, 2½ ells of gray armosene taffeta, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item fyve quartaris gray stemmyng to be his grace ane pair of hois þe elne xlv s Summa— lvj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming to be a pair of hose for his grace, each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

Item ten quartaris gray taffate of foure threid to þe said hois and to be gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of gray taffeta of four threads for the said hose and to be garters, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar quhite fusteane to lyne þis doublet þe elne vj s summa—xix s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item tua dosane gray buttonis to It—v s

Item, 24 gray buttons for it, 5s.

Item half ane pund of caddes þe slevis of It—v s

Item, half a pound of stuffing for the sleeves of it, 5s.

Item ane vnce and half ane vnce sewing silk—xj s iij d

Item, 1½ ounces of sewing silk, 11s 3d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent þe samyn doublet—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen the same doublet, 4s.

Item thre quartaris fyne Inglis reid to lyne þir hois—xxij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of fine English red to line these hose, 22s 6d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 21 5

Item for ane Jak to my Lord gouernoures grace—ix li

Item, for a jack for my lord governor’s grace, £9.

Item to þis jak makaris seruandis in drinksilver—v s

Item, to this jack maker’s servants in drinksilver, 5s.

Item tua dosane of gluffis to his grace— xlviij s [498]

Item, 24 gloves for his grace, 48s.

Item vij quartaris blak sating fyne deliuert to archibald dewar till be slevis to ane doublet of his graces, þe slevis of þe self maid our schort, þe elne xlv s summa—iij li vij s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of fine black satin delivered to Archibald Dewar to be sleeves for a doublet of his graces, the sleeves of the same made too short, each ell 45s; total: £3 7s 6d.112

Item to lyne þir slewis vj quartaris fyne quhite fustiane—xij s [500]

Item, to line these sleeves 1½ ells of fine white fustian, 12s.

Item xx elnis half ane quarter les holland clayt bocht at James barroun to be sarkis to my lord gouernoures /g/ and deliuert to robert gourlay price of þe elne xviij s—xvij li xviij s

Item, 19⅞ ells of Holland cloth bought at James Barroun to be shirts for my lord governor’s grace and delivered to Robert Gourlay, price of each ell 18s; [total:] £17 18s.113

Item ane elne of bukrem to lyne tua bonettis to his grace—v s [502]

Item, an ell of buckram to line two bonnets for his grace, 5s.

November 1549

112

Item to Gilbert hay broudstar for xij elnis and ane quartar pasmentis of gold to his graces Jurnale of crammosye welwote furnist In October last price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—viij li xj s vj d

Item, to Gilbert Hay, embroiderer, for 12¼ ells of passementerie of gold for his grace’s journey coat of crimson velvet furnished in October last, price of each ell 14s; total: £8 11s 6d.

Item tua dosoun buttonnes of gold for þe samyn Jurnale price of þe dosoun xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 24 buttons of gold for the same journey coat, price of each dozen 16s; total: 32s.

Item to þe said gilbert for pasmenting of ane sweird belt of his graces with sylwer—xvj s

Item, to the said Gilbert for ornamenting of a sword belt of his grace’s with silver, 16s.

The total should be £3 18s 9d. The total given would be correct for 1½ ells of satin. The total should be £17 17s 9d.

113

216

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item coft fra williame ker to be ane ryding cote to his grace vj quartaris and ane half of fyne vyolat In grane price of þe elne iiij li x s Summa—vij li vj s iij d

Item, bought from William Kerr to be a riding coat for his grace, 1⅝ ells of fine violet in grain, price of each ell £4 10s; total: £7 6s 3d.

Item vij elnis fustiane to lyne þis cote price of þe elne ix s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, 7 ells of fustian to line this coat, price of each ell 9s; total: £3 3s.

Item vij quartaris fyne blak welwote to bordoure þis cote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of fine black velvet to border this coat, price of each ell £4; total: £7.

Item tua vnce pareis silk to sew on þe bordoure of þe said cote—xx s

Item, 2 ounces of Paris silk to sew on the border of the said coat, 20s.

Item xviij buttonis to it—iiij s vj d

Item, 18 buttons for it, 4s 6d.

Item xij elnis and ane quartar fyne tannye dalmes to be ane nycht goun to his grace price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xxvj li xix s

Item, 12¼ ells of fine tawny damask to be a night gown for his grace, price of each ell 44s; total: £26 19s.

Item ane elne tannye welwote to vane þe said goun price of þe elne—iij li xij s [507]

Item, an ell of tawny velvet to trim the said gown, price of each ell £3 12s.

Item thre quartaris round hollande claith to be lynynges to round mwches of his graces—ix s

Item, ¾ ell of heavy Holland cloth to be linings to round caps of his grace’s, 9s.

Item xl elnis trasis to be sewit vpoun þe saidis mwchis þe elne viij d Summa—xxvj s viij d

Item, 40 ells of traces to be sewn onto the said caps, each ell 8d; total: 26s 8d.

Item to hir mair ane elne of hollande claith to þe saidis mwchis—vij s

Item, to her also, an ell of Holland cloth for the said caps, 7s.

Item ane quartar vnce silk to sew þir trasis vpoun þir kellis price—ij s vj d

Item, ¼ ounce of silk to sew these traces on these caps, price 2s 6d.

Item vj elnis and ane half robane sylk to bynde on þe saidis mwchis on þe nycht price—xj s ix d ob [509]

Item, 6½ ells of ribbon silk to bind on the said caps on [for?] the night, price 11s 9½d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 217

Item vij quartaris taffateis of foure thredis to be belt and gartanis to his grace þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of taffeta of four threads to be belt and garters for his grace, each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item to þe furrour for þe furring of his graces goun of tanny dalmes all thrt except þe foresytis—iiij li [510]

Item, to the furrier for the furring of his grace’s gown of tawny damask all throughout except the forescyes, £4.

Item for dressing of þe furring of luserttis of ane goun of blak weluot of my lord gouernoures—xiiij s

Item, for dressing of the furring of lynx of a gown of black velvet of my lord governor’s, 14s.

Item for þe furring of ane goun of sable poynttit to ane goun of tanny sating of his /g/—xiiij s

Item, for the furring of a gown of sable pointed to a gown of tawny satin of his grace’s, 14s.

Item for ane furring of cvnyng skynnis to ane coit of blak sating of his /g/—iij li [511]

Item, for a furring of rabbit skins for a coat of black satin of his grace’s, £3.

December 1549 Item fyve elnis and ane half fyne blak welwote to be ane cote to my lorde gouernoure deliuerrit to Archiebald dewar price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxij li

Item, 5½ ells of fine black velvet to be a coat for my lord governor, delivered to Archibald Dewar, price of each ell £4; total: £22.

Item vij elnis blak fustiane to lyne þis cote price of þe elne ix s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, 7 ells of black fustian to line this coat, price of each ell 9s; total: £3 3s.

Item […] buttonnes to it price—iiij s

Item, [...] buttons for it, price 4s.

Item tua elnis tannye welwote to be ane pair of theis of hois to his grace price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of tawny velvet to be a pair of thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item vj quartaris tannye taffate of corde to lyne þir hois price—xxxvj s

Item, 1½ ells of tawny taffeta of cord to line these hose, price 36s.

Item thre quartarris braid reid to lyne þir hois price of þe elne xxx s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of broad red to line these hose, price of each ell 30s; total: 22s 6d.

Item fyve quartaris fyne stemmyng of myllane to be schankes to þir hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of fine stemming of Milan to be legs for these hose, price of each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

218

114 115

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item xiij elnis and ane half pasmentis of gold to his graces foresaid cote of welwote þe elne xiiij s Summa—ix li xviij s

Item, 13½ ells of passementerie of gold for his grace’s aforementioned coat of velvet, each ell 14s; total: £9 18s.114

Item tua dosoun buttounes of sewing gold to þe samyn þe dosoun xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 24 buttons of sewing gold for the same, each dozen 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane vnce of silk to þe samyn—x s

Item, an ounce of silk for the same, 10s.

Item thre elnis ane quartar tannye sating to be his grace ane doublat price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li xix s

Item, 3¼ ells of tawny satin to be a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 19s.115

Item thre elnis ane quartar quhite fustiane to lyne þis doublat þe elne vj s Summa—xix s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat of tannye sating price—iij s

Item an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet of tawny satin, price 3s.

Item tua dosoun of buttonnes—vj s

Item, 24 buttons, 6s.

Item half ane vnce silk to þir hois and doublat—v s

Item, ½ ounce of silk for these hose and doublet, 5s.

Item tua dosoun of tannye silkin pointtis— v s [512]

Item, 24 tawny silk points, 5s.

Item ane elne of canves to pak my lorde gouernoures clathis In send to hammiltoun—iij s

Item, an ell of canvas to pack my lord governor’s clothes in, sent to Hamilton, 3s.

Item to Besse murray ane elne of fyne camrage to be naipkynnes to my lorde gouernoures price—xxvj s viij d

Item, to Bessie Murray, an ell of fine cambric to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, price 26s 8d.

Item ane quartar hanke of gold to the same—viij s

Item, a quarter hank of gold for the same, 8s.

Item ane other elne of þe same camrage to þe naipkynnes—xxvj s viij d

Item, another ell of the same cambric for the handkerchiefs, 26s 8d.

The total should be £9 9s. The total should be £5 17s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 219

Item ane other quartar hank gold—viij s

Item, another quarter hank gold, 8s.

Item vj quartaris bukrum to be sokkis to his grace—ix s

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to be socks for his grace, 9s.

Item thre elnis ane quartar silk robanis to his graces nyt howes—viij s j d [514]

Item, 3¼ ells of silk ribbons for his grace’s night caps, 8s 1d.

January 1549/50 Item v quartarris gray stemmyng of myllane to be his grace ane pair of hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for his grace, price of each ell 45s; total: 56s 3d.

Item tua elnis and ane half gray taffate to lyne þir hois and to be gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of gray taffeta to line these hose and to be garters, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item half elne & half ane quartar Inglische reid to lyne þir hois price—xxj s iij d

Item, ⅝ ell of English red to line these hose, price 21s 3d.

Item to Besse murray ane other half hanke of gold to my lorde gouernoures naipkynnes furnist in December last price—viij s

Item, to Bessie Murray, another half hank of gold for my lord governor’s handkerchiefs, furnished last December, price 8s.

Item to half ane elne and half quartar hollande claith to lyne his graces mowchis price—vij s vj d

Item, for ⅝ ell of Holland cloth to line his grace’s caps, price 7s 6d.

Item half ane elne half quarter quhite welwote to be schone to his grace price of þe elne iij li xviij s Summa—xlviij s ix d

Item, ⅝ ell of white velvet to be shoes for his grace, price of each ell £3 18s; total: 48s 9d.

Item ane ryding bonet of welwote to his grace price—xl s [521]

Item, a riding bonnet of velvet for his grace, price 40s.

Item to Robert gourlay þt he gaif for ane pair of sockis and spurris to his grace—xj s x d ob [524]

Item, to Robert Gourlay, that he gave for a pair of socks and spurs for his grace, 11s 10½d.

220

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

February 1549/50 Item xxvto fabruarii send to hammyltoun wt ane seruand of william forsterris to be sarkis to my lord gouernoures grace viij elnis and ane half small holland clayt price of þe elne xviij s—vij li xiij s

Item, February 25th, sent to Hamilton with a servant of William Forster’s, to be shirts for my lord governor’s grace, 8½ ells of fine Holland cloth, price of each ell 18s; [total:] £7 13s.

Item to be ruffis to þir sarkis and to vþer xiij elnis holland clayt send of before, ane elne—xviij s

Item, to be ruffs for these shirts and to [shirts made from] the other 13 ells Holland cloth sent off before, an ell, 18s.

Item þe samyn day to be bonettis to his grace deliuert to arche dewar ane elne and half ane quartar fyne weluot price of þe elne iiij li summa—iiij li x s

Item, the same day, to be bonnets for his grace, delivered to Archie Dewar, 1⅛ ells of fine velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £4 10s.

Item ane elne of bukrem to lyne þir bonettis—v s

Item, an ell of buckram to line these bonnets, 5s.

Item ane quartar and ane nale of sating to þame þe elne xxxviij s—xj s x d ob [526]

Item, 5⁄16 ell of satin for them, each ell 38s; [total:] 11s 10½d.

Item xiij elnis holland claith to be sarkis to my lorde gouernour & send to hammiltoun to be sewit þair þe elne xj s Summa—vij li xvj s [529]

Item, 13 ells Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor, and sent to Hamilton to be sewn there, each ell 11s; total: £7 16s.116

March 1549/50

116

Item to Couchrane broudstar for ane nycht how to my lorde gouernour wroucht wt gold and blak silk In iiij crounis of þe sone—iiij li x s [533]

Item, to Cochran, embroiderer, for a night cap for my lord governor, wrought with gold and black silk, in 4 crowns of the sun, £4 10s.

Item iij elnis thre quartaris fyne vnprest blak to be ane ryding cloke to my lorde gouernour price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—viij li v s [535]

Item, 3¾ ells of fine unpressed black to be a riding cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 44s; total: £8 5s.

The total should be £7 3s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 12s rather than 11s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 221

Item to Besse murray xxij elnis trasis of blak silk to be sewit vpoun lycht quafis of his graces þe elne viij d Summa—xiiij s viij d

Item, to Bessie Murray, 22 ells of traces of black silk to be sewn on light coifs of his grace’s, each ell 8d; total: 14s 8d.

Item xxvjto marcii tua elnis blak taffate of genis to be belt and gartanis to his grace price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [536]

Item, March 26th, 2 ells of black taffeta of Genoa to be belt and garters for his grace, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

April 1550 Item þe xij day of apprile to be ane cote and ane cloik to my lord gouernoures grace fyvve elnis thre quartaris of fyne blak stemmet price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xiij li iiij s vj d

Item, the 12th day of April, to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor’s grace, 5¾ ells of fine black stemming?, price of each ell 46s; total: £13 4s 6d.

Item iiii elnis bukrem to lyne þis coit price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item foure vnce of blak sewing silk to þe samyn price of þe vnce x s Summa—xl s

Item, 4 ounces of black sewing silk for the same, price of each ounce 10s; total: 40s.

Item tua dosane butonis to þis coit price— vj s

Item, 24 buttons for this coat, price 6s.

Item tua elnis taffate gray to be belt and gartanis to his grace price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to be belt and garters for his grace, price 32s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar fyne blak weluot to be schone to my lord gouernoures grace bocht at william craik þe elne iiij li x s—lvj s iij d

Item, ⅝ ell of fine black velvet to be shoes for my lord governor’s grace, bought at William Craik, each ell £4 10s; [total:] 56s 3d.

Item tua elnis and ane quartar fyne blak sating to bordour þis coit and cloik price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of fine black satin to border this coat and cloak, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane kais of kamis to his grace—xij s

Item, a case of combs for his grace, 12s.

Item thre dosane of poynttis—viij s

Item, 36 points, 8s.

Item ane hatt to my lord gouernour pce— xlvj s

Item, a hat for my lord governor, price 46s.

Item quartar and half quartar taffate to lyne þe samyn hatt—vj s [542]

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta to line the same hat, 6s.

222

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May 1550 Item to be my lord gouernoures grace ane coit thre fyne spanȝe skynnis price of þe pece xxxvj s Summa—v li viij s

Item, to be my lord governor’s grace a coat, three fine Spanish skins, price of each piece 36s; total: £5 8s.

Item tua dosane buttonis to þe samyn—vj s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, 6s.

Item ane quartar and ane nale of blak weluot to eik ane coit of his graces—xxv s

Item, 5⁄16 ell of black velvet to enlarge a coat of his grace’s, 25s.

Item quartar half quartar fusteane to þe samyn—iij s

Item, ⅜ ell of fustian for the same, 3s.

Item thre elnis ane quartar gray sating to be his grace ane doublet þe elne xlij s—vj li xvj s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of gray satin to be a doublet for his grace, each ell 42s; [total:] £6 16s 6d.

Item thre elnis and ane half quhite fusteane to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—xiiij s

Item, 3½ ells of white fustian to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 14s.

Item ane elne of canves to be stenting to it—iij s viij d

Item, an ell of canvas to be stiffening for it, 3s 8d.

Item tua ds gray buttonis to It—vj s

Item, 24 gray buttons for it, 6s.

Item ane quartar of ane vnce of gray silk—ij s vj d [552]

Item, ¼ ounce of gray silk, 2s 6d.

Item at þe deces of þe quenys graces faider to be ane dule coit cloik hois and lynyng to my lord gouernour vij elnis and ane half stemmyng of melane price of þe elne xliiij smma—xvj li x s

Item, at the decease of the queen’s grace’s father, to be a mourning coat, cloak, hose, and lining for my lord governor, 7½ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: £16 10s.

Item foure elnis bukrem to lyne þis coit price of þe elne v s—xxs

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 5s; [total:] 20s.

Item tua ds buttonis to þis coit—v s

Item, 24 buttons for this coat, 5s.

Item half an vnce of silk to it—v s

Item, ½ ounce of silk for it, 5s.

Item quartar and half ane quartar fyne blak to be his grace schone þe elne iij li smma— xxij s vj d

Item, ⅜ ell of fine black to be shoes for his grace, each ell £3; total: 22s 6d.



117

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 223

Item to lyne his graces hois vij quartaris taffate of genis þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, to line his grace’s hose, 1¾ ells of taffeta of Genoa, each ell 18s; total: 31s 6d.

Item ane dule bonet to his grace price—xiiij s

Item, a mourning bonnet for his grace, price 14s.

Item ane dule hat to his grace—v s

Item, a mourning hat for his grace, 5s.

…

…

Item ane dule belt maid of stemmet of melan—xvij s [553]

Item, a mourning belt made of stemming of Milan, 17s.

Item to be his grace an vþir ryding coit tua elnis ane quartar fyne stemmyng melane price of þe elne xlvj s smma—v li iij s vj d

Item, to be another riding coat for his grace, 2¼ ells of fine stemming of Milan, price of each ell 46s; total: £5 3s 6d.

Item tua ds buttonis to it—v s

Item, 24 buttons for it, 5s.

Item ane quartar vnce silk to it—ij s vj d

Item, 1 quarter ounce of silk for it, 2s 6d.

Item tua elnis bukrem to lyne þe samyn—x s [554]

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line the same, 10s.

Item þe samyn tyme to be his grace ane dule goun vij elnis half eln and half ane quartar fyne blak price of þe elne liij s—xx li iiij s iij d [557]

Item, the same time, to be a mourning gown for his grace, 7⅝ ells of fine black, price of each ell 53s, total: £20 4s 3d.117

Item to be schankis to ane pair of hois of gray weluot þe weluot his graces awin half elne and half ane quartar gray stemmet þe elne xlij s—xxvj s iij d

Item, to be legs for a pair of hose of gray velvet, the velvet his grace’s own, ⅝ ell of gray stemming, each ell 42s; [total:] 26s 3d.

…

…

Item to eik ane doublat of my lordes ane quartar and ane naill gray sating price—x s vj d [558]

Item, to enlarge a doublet of my lord’s, 5⁄16 ell of gray satin, price 10s 6d.

The total should be £20 4s 1½d.

22 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane spounge to malcome gourlay of þe gairdrop send to hammyltoun to dres my lord gouerures claytis þair price—iiij s

Item, a sponge for Malcolm Gourlay, of the wardrobe, sent to Hamilton to dress my lord governor’s clothes there, price 4s.

…

…

Item ane other spunge to Robert gourlay for his graces awyn chalmer—v s [582]

Item, another sponge for Robert Gourlay for his grace’s own chamber, 5s.

Item to myrreleis cordinar for schone butis his feyes &other necessares furnist to my lord gouernour as his tikat heir present to schew beris—xxiiij li xviij s [589]

Item, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, for shoes, boots, his fees, and other necessities furnished to my lord governor, as his ticket here present to show bears out, £24 18s.

Item to ane boy þt turssit ane goun of taffateis and otherris clathis to my lord gouernour to Dumfermling at þe cuming of þe quennis brother—iij s [591]

Item, to a boy that transported a gown of taffeta and other clothes to my lord governor to Dunfermline at the coming of the queen’s brother, 3s.

June 1550

118

Item to be ane doublet to my lorde gouernoures grace thre elnis and ane quartar fyne blak sating price of þe elne xl s summa—vj li x s

Item, to be a doublet for my lord governor’s grace, 3¼ ells of fine black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £6 10s.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar quhite fusteane to lyne þis doublet þe elne vj s summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 6s; total: 22s 6d.118

Item ane elne canves to be stenting to It—iiij s

Item, an ell of canvas to be stiffening for it, 4s.

Item ane elne and ane quartar canves to be ane fals doublet but slevis to his grace—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to be a false doublet without? sleeves for his grace, 5s.

Item tua dosane buttonis to þis sating doublett price—vj s [592]

Item, 24 buttons for this satin doublet, price 6s.

Item thre elnis holland clayt deliuert to besse murray to be codwaris price of þe elne xv s—xlv s

Item, 3 ells of Holland cloth delivered to Bessie Murray to be pillowcases, price of each ell 15s; [total:] 45s.

Item ane elne of þe samyn to hir to be nyt howis to his grace—xv s [593]

Item, an ell of the same to her to be nightcaps for his grace, 15s.

The total should be 19s 6d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 225

Item half ane elne bukrame to be lachettis to my lorde gouernoures dule cote to knet his pointis to In het wedder—ij s vj d [595]

Item, ½ ell of buckram to be latchets for my lord governor’s mourning coat to tie his points to in hot weather, 2s 6d.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar bukrame to be maid in ane polk quhair In my lorde gouernoures ny t geir wes turst—v s vij d [596]

Item, 1⅛ ells of buckram to be made into a bag wherein my lord governor’s night gear was packed, 5s 7d.

July 1550

119

Item foure elnis blak crysp for my lorde gouernoures ordar price—xiij s iiij d [597]

Item, 4 ells of black crespe for my lord governor’s order, price 13s 4d.119

Item ane dosoun of pair of gluffis to my lord gouernour—xxiiij s

Item, 12 pairs of gloves for my lord governor, 24s.

Item ane lytill claith bonet to his grace— xiiij s

Item, a little cloth bonnet for his grace, 14s.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar blak welwote to be schone to his grace price of þe elne iiij li Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 1⅛ ells of black velvet to be shoes for his grace, price of each ell £4; total: £4 10s.

Item three elnis and ane half fyne small canves to be ane doublat to his grace price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xiiij s

Item, 3½ ells of very fine canvas to be a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 4s; total: 14s.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar blak stemmyng to be schankes of hois to my lord gour price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xlix s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of black stemming to be legs of hose for my lord governor, price of each ell 44s; total: 49s 6d.

Item thre elnis round hollande claith to be nyt curchayes to his grace—xxj s [599]

Item, 3 ells heavy Holland cloth to be night kerchiefs for his grace, 21s.

Item to þe skynnarris boyes In drinksyluer þt maid my lord gouernoures gluffis—xij d [601]

Item, for the skinner’s boys that made my lord governor’s gloves, in drinksilver, 12d.

The crespe was to hang a pendant representing the Regent’s membership in the Order of the Cockle; see note 90, above.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

August 1550 Item secundo Augusti to be schankis of hois to my lorde gouernoure v quarterris stemmyng of myllane þe elne xliiij s Summa—lv s

Item, August second, to be legs of hose for my lord governor, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan, each ell 44s; total: 55s.

…

…

Item vj quarterris canves to be ane fals doublat to his graces self—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to be a false doublet for his grace’s self, 6s.

Item thre elnis and ane half canves to be ane doublat to his grace price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xv s ix d [607]

Item, 3½ ells of canvas to be a doublet for his grace, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 15s 9d.

September 1550 Item to besse mwrray thre elnis lynnyng clayt to be fute sokis to my lord gouernour— vij s [612]

Item, to Bessie Murray, 3 ells of linen cloth to be foot socks for my lord governor, 7s.

November 1550 Item xiijo Nouembris coft tobe ane coit and cloik to my lord governoure vj elnis and ane quarter stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xiij li xv s

Item, November 13th, bought to be a coat and cloak for my lord governor, 6¼ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: £13 15s.

Item to broder þis coit and cloke twa elnis and ane half blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, to border this coat and cloak, 2½ ells of black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item v vnce steikin silk to þis coit and cloke price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xlv s

Item, 5 ounces sewing silk for this coat and cloak, price of each ounce, 9s; total: 45s.

Item viij elnis blak fustiane to lyne þis coit price of þe elne viij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 8 ells of black fustian to line this coat, price of each ell 8s; total: £3 4s.

Item half ane elne of bukrame tobe powchis to þe samyn—ij s vj d

Item, ½ ell of buckram to be pockets for the same, 2s 6d.

Item coft to lyne ane coit of his grace of champit veluet þe veluet his g/ awne viij elnis fustiane price of þe elne viij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, bought to line a coat of his grace’s of patterned velvet, the velvet his grace’s own, 8 ells of fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: £3 4s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 227

120

Item xiiij elnis pasmentis of Siluir and blak silk to þe coit price of þe elne x s Summa— vij li

Item, 14 ells of passementerie of silver and black silk for the coat, price of each ell 10s; total: £7.

Item twa dosane of buttonis of þe samyn sorte to þis coit price of þe dosane xij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 24 buttons of the same sort for this coat, price of each dozen 12s; total: 24s.

Item twa vnce of silk to sew þis coit price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of silk to sew this coat, price of each ounce 9s; total: 18s.

Item to lyne þe breistis of þis coit and of þe coit of stemmyng of myllane ane elne of blak taffiteis of þe cord price—xviij s

Item, to line the breasts of this coat and of the coat of stemming of Milan, an ell of black taffeta of the cord, price 18s.

Item twa dosane buttonis of silk to þe coit of stemmyng of myllane price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—v s [615]

Item, 24 buttons of silk for the coat of stemming of Milan, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 5s.

Item xvijo Nouembris coft tobe his grace Ane Riding cloke thre elnis and thre quarteris of franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li x s

Item, November 17th, bought to be a riding cloak for his grace, 3¾ ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £7 10s.

Item to bordoure þis cloke vij quarteris veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—vj li xj s vj d

Item, to border this cloak, 1¾ ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £6 11s 6d.120

Item twa vnce of steiking silk to þe bordouris of þis cloke price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of sewing silk for the borders of this cloak, price of each ounce 9s; total: 18s.

Item v quarteris bukrame to be his g/ sokkis price of þe elne v s Summa—vj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be socks for his grace, price of each ell 5s; total: 6s 3d.

Item twa dosane of buttonis to ane ryding coit of Inglis russett price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—v s

Item, 24 buttons for a riding coat of English russet, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 5s.

Item to dennestoun tailȝeour for ane Ryding bonett of veluet to his grace—xxxvj s [616]

Item, to Danielston, tailor, for a riding bonnet of velvet for his grace, 36s.

The total should be £6 11s 3d.

22 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item xxo Nouembris coft and deliuerit to my Lady gordoun tobe nekkis and ruffis to his grace sarkis half ane elne camreche claith price þairof—viij s

Item, November 20th, bought and delivered to my Lady Gordon to be collars and ruffs for his grace’s shirts, ½ ell of cambric cloth, price thereof, 8s.

Item vij elnis quhite pasmentis to be put on þe saidis sarkis price of þe elne iiij d Summa—ij s iiij d [617]

Item, 7 ells of white passementerie to be put on the said shirts, price of each ell 4d; total: 2s 4d.

Item for ane cais to turs my lord governouris g/ bonettis In—iij s

Item, for a case to pack my lord governor’s grace’s bonnets in, 3s.

Item quarto Nouembris deliuerit to Robert gowrlaw ane lokkit bonet cais price—xxviij s [620]

Item, November 4th, delivered to Robert Gourlay, a locked bonnet case, price 28s.

December 1550 Item xiijo Decembris coft tobe my lord governouris grace ane coit foure elnis and ane half taffite of growgrane price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—x li vij s

Item, December 13th, bought to be a coat for my lord governor’s grace, 4½ ells of taffeta of grosgrain, price of each ell 46s; total: £10 7s.

Item to lyne this coit viij elnis blak fustiane price of þe elne viij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, to line this coat, 8 ells of black fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: £3 4s.

Item to lyne þe breistis þairof half ane elne taffiteis of þe cord price þairof—ix s

Item, to line the breasts thereof, ½ ell of taffeta of the cord, price thereof 9s.

Item xiiij elnis pasmentis of gold to put on þe samyn price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—ix li xvj s

Item, 14 ells of passementerie of gold to put on the same, price of each ell 14s; total: £9 16s.

Item xx buttonis of gold to þe samyn price of þe dosane xvj s Summa—xxvj s viij d

Item, 20 buttons of gold for the same, price of each dozen 16s; total: 26s 8d.

Item ane vnce of silk to þis coit price—x s

Item, an ounce of silk for this coat, price 10s.

Item half ane elne bukrame tobe powcheis to it price—ij s vj d [622]

Item, ½ ell of buckram to be pockets for it, price 2s 6d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 229

Item to be his grace ane dowblet xj quarteris of taffiteis of growgrane price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li vj s vj d

Item, to be a doublet for his grace, 2¾ ells of taffeta of grosgrain, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 6s 6d.

Item to lyne this dowblet thre elnis and ane quarter quhite fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xix s vj d

Item, to line this doublet, 3¼ ells of white fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item to stent it v quarteris of canves price of þe elne iiij s Summa v s

Item, to stiffen it, 1¼ ells of canvas, price of each ell 4s; total: 5s.

Item half ane vnce of silk to it price—iiij s vj d

Item, ½ ounce of silk for it, price 4s 6d.

Item v elnis pasmenttis of silk price of the elne ij s Summa—x s

Item, 5 ells of passementerie of silk, price of each ell 2s; total: 10s.

Item twa dosane of buttonis to þis dowblet price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—v s

Item, 24 buttons for this doublet, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 5s.

Item tobe schankis of hois to his grace þe theis of blak veluet v quarteris stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—lv s

Item, to be legs of hose for his grace, the thighs of black velvet, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: 55s.

Item to be schone to his grace half ane elne and half ane quarter fyne blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa xlvj s x d ob [623]

Item, to be shoes for his grace, ⅝ ell of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 46s 10½d.

Item xxvo Decembris to Besse murray to be nicht howis to my lord governoure thre elnis holand claith price of þe elne xij s Summa xxxvj s

Item, December 26th, to Bessie Murray to be night caps for my lord governor, 3 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 12s; total: 36s.

Item to hir toby lynyngis and tressis to þe samyn—vj s [624]

Item, for her to buy linings and traces for the same, 6s.

Item tobe þe patroune of ane dowblet to remane with my lord governouris tailȝeour v quarteris of canves price of þe elne iiij s Summa—v s [626]

Item, to be the pattern of a doublet to remain with my lord governor’s tailor, 1¼ ells of canvas, price of each ell 4s; total: 5s.

23 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

February 1550/51 Item deliuerit to Robert gourlaw vj dosane fyne silk poyntis price þairof—xviij s

Item, delivered to Robert Gourlay 72 fine silk points, price thereof 18s.

Item vijo februarii deliuerit to Robert gourlaw tobe sarkis to his grace xxxviij elnis holand claith price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—xxv li vj s viij d

Item, February 7th, delivered to Robert Gourlay to be shirts for his grace, 38 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: £25 6s 8d.

Item to be ruffis and nekkis to ane parte of þir sarkis twa elnis small canwische claith price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [632]

Item, to be ruffs and collars for some of these shirts, 2 ells of fine canvas?121 cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item half ane dosane paris of gluvis to my lord governour price þairof xij s [637]

Item, 6 pairs of gloves for my lord governor, price thereof 12s.

Item xviijo februarii coft and deliuerit to Robert gourlaw ane sponge price—iiij s

Item, February 18th, bought and delivered to Robert Gourlay, a sponge, price 4s.

Item twa elnis lynyng claith to be rubing claithis price of þe elne ij s Summa—iiij s [646]

Item, 2 ells of linen cloth to be rubbing cloths, price of each ell 2s; total: 4s.

October 1551

121

Item tertio octobris deliuerit to archibald dewar tobe ane dowblett to my lord gouernour thre elnis quarter and half quarter blak satin of wenys price of þe elne xl s Summa— vj li xv s

Item, October 3rd, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a doublet for my lord governor, 3⅜ ells of black satin of Venice, price of each ell 40s; total: £6 15s.

Item thre elnis and ane half quhite fustiane to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3½ ells of white fustian to line the same, price of each ell 6s; total: 21s.

Item for buttonis and stenting canves to þe samyn—viij s

Item, for buttons and stiffening canvas for the same, 8s.

Item tway elnis blak welwett tobe theis of hois to his grace price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to be thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

The spelling canwische is different from the usual (which would be canves), and this cloth is more than three times more expensive than the next most costly piece of canvas, making that a dubious translation.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 23 1

Item sevin quarteris blak taffiteis to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item fyve quarteris stemmyng of myllane tobe schankis to þe samyn price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for the same, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to þe theis of þir hois—xxiiij s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk for the thighs of these hose, 24s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald tobe theis of hois to his grace tway elnis gray welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, to be thighs of hose for his grace, 2 ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item sevin quarteris gray taffiteis to lyne þe hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of gray taffeta to line the hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item sex quarteris braid inglis reid to lyne þir hois and þe vthir hois of blak welwett price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xlij s

Item, 1½ ells of broad English red to line these hose, and the other hose of black velvet, price of each ell 28s; total: 42s.

Item fyve quarteris gray stemmyng of myllane tobe schankis to þir hois price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item thre dosane poynttis deliuerit to Robert gourlaw witht þir hois price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—vij s vj d

Item, 36 points delivered to Robert Gourlay with these hose, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 7s 6d.

Item tway elnis taffiteis of foure threddis tobe ane belt and gartanis to his grace price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to be a belt and garters for his grace, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item deliuerit to archebald dewar thre elnis and ane half quhyte fustyane to lyne ane dowblett to my lord gouernouris grace of gowgrane þe gowgrane gottin out of his graces garderobe price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxj s

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 3½ ells of white fustian to line a doublet for my lord governor’s grace of grosgrain, the grosgrain gotten out of his grace’s wardrobe, price of each ell 6s; total: 21s.

Item for stenting canves and buttonis to þe samyn—viij s

Item, for stiffening canvas, and buttons for the same, 8s.

Item an elne of canves to pak þis claithis in tobe caryit to lynly tqw to his grace price þairof—iij s [648]

Item, an ell of canvas to pack these clothes in, to be carried to Linlithgow, to his grace, price thereof 3s.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item xmo octobris deliuerit to besse murray tobe kemmyng claithis nyt quaffis and napkynnis to his grace viij elnis holand clat price of þe elne xij s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, October 10th, delivered to Bessie Murray to be combing cloths, night coifs, and handkerchiefs for his grace, 8 ells Holland cloth, price of each ell 12s; total: £4 16s.

Item to hir to by gold to cord ane dosane of Napkynnis witht—xxiij s

Item, to her to buy gold to cord a dozen handkerchiefs with, 23s.

Item xiiijto octobris deliuerit to robert gourlay ane fyne couering of blak for my lord gouernouris steill bonett price þairof—xx s

Item, October 14th, delivered to Robert Gourlay, a fine covering of black for my lord governor’s steel helm, price thereof 20s.

Item ane quarter of taffite of þe cord tobe ane tippett to þe samyn price þairof—iiij s vj d

Item, ¼ ell of taffeta of the cord to be a tippet for the same, price thereof 4s 6d.

Item ane dosane paris of glowes price of þe paire ij s Summa—xxiiij s [649]

Item, 12 pairs of gloves, price of each pair 2s; total: 24s.

November 1551 Item secundo nouembris deliuerit to archebald dewar to be ane cloik and ane coit to my lord gouernour five elnis and ane half fyne stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—x li ix s

Item, November 2nd, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a cloak and a coat for my lord governor 5½ ells of fine stemming of Milan, price of each ell 38s; total: £10 9s.

Item tway elnis ane quarter fyne blak satyng to bordour þis cloik and coit price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of fine black satin to border this cloak and coat, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item fyve vnce paris silk to styk þe samyn price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xlv s

Item, 5 ounces of Paris silk to stitch the same, price of each ounce 9s; total: 45s.

Item vj elnis and ane half blak fustiane to lyne þis coit price of þe elne viij s Summa— lij s

Item, 6½ ells of black fustian to line this coat, price of each ell 8s; total: 52s.

Item ane quarter of taffite of foure threddis to lyne þe breistis of þe samyn price þairof—iiij s

Item, ¼ ell of taffeta of four threads to line the breasts of the same, price thereof 4s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 233

Item for buttonis and bukcrame to be pewchis to þe samyn—vj s

Item, for buttons and buckram to be pockets for the same, 6s.

Item ane elne of canves to pak þis coit and cloik in tobe tursit to drumfreis to my lord gouernour being þair price þairof—ij s viij d [657]

Item, an ell of canvas to pack this coat and cloak in, to be carried to Dumfries to my lord governor being there, price thereof 2s 8d.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald deware to lyne þe nek of ane quhyte cloik of my lord gouernouris half ane elne of blak welwet price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxxv s

Item, delivered to the said Archibald Dewar to line the neck of a white cloak of my lord governor’s, ½ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 35s.

Item vj vnces blak pasmentes to put on þe samin cloik price of þe vnce x s Summa—iij li

Item, 6 ounces of black passementerie to put on the same cloak, price of each ounce 10s; total: £3.

Item for buttonis and sewing silk to þe samin—xvj s

Item, for buttons and sewing silk for the same, 16s.

Item for lynnyng claith to lyne þe samyn— vj s

Item, for lining [linen?] cloth to line the same, 6s.

Item vj quarteris rybbanis deliuerit to Robert gourlay to hyng my lord gouernouris ordour about his graces nek price of þe elne ij s Summa—iij s [658]

Item, 1½ ells of ribbons delivered to Robert Gourlay to hang my lord governor’s Order about his grace’s neck, price of each ell 2s; total: 3s.

Item none nouembris ane boy send fur t of Edinburt to my lord gouernour being in drumfreis witht ane cloik and ane coit of stemmyng of myllane and his wage—xvj s [664]

Item, November 9th, a boy sent forth from Edinburgh to my lord governor, being in Dumfries, with a cloak and a coat of stemming of Milan, and his wage, 16s.

December 1551 Item to archebald deware for ane bonett of welwett to my lord gouernour—xlviij s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for a bonnet of velvet for my lord governor, 48s.

Item for ane bonett of wevin silk to his grace—xviij s

Item, for a bonnet of woven silk for his grace, 18s.

Item for bukcrame to be sokkis to his grace—vj s [667]

Item, for buckram to be socks for his grace, 6s.

23 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

January 1551/52 Item xvjto Januarii deliuerit to robert gourlay to be ny t quaffis to my lord gouernour thre elnis small holand claith price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, January 16th, delivered to Robert Gourlay to be night coifs for my lord governor, 3 ells of fine Holland cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

Item lxvj elnis blak trasis tobe pute vpoun þe samin price of þe elne vij d Summa—­ xxxviij s vj d

Item, 66 ells of black traces to be put upon the same, price of each ell 7d; total: 38s 6d.

Item deliuerit to archebald deware tobe schankis to welwett hois of his graces v quarteris blak stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be legs to velvet hose of his grace’s, 1¼ ells of black stemming of Milan, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item to inglis williame for tway paris of welwet schone to his grace price of þe pair xxiiij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, to English William for two pairs of velvet shoes for his grace, price of each pair 24s; total: 48s.

Item to homeir leis for buttis and schone furnist to my lord gouernour, and schone and pantonis to his graces lady and barnis fra þe xxviij day of september last bipast to þis day conforme to þe said homeris byll of compt heir present to schaw—v li [677]

Item, to Homer Leis for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor, and shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for his grace’s lady and children, from the 28th day of September last past to this day conforming to the said Homer’s bill of account, here present to show, £5.

Item to James lowry for ane ryding bonett of welwet to my lord gouernour grace price þairof—xl s [679]

Item, to James Lowry for a riding bonnet of velvet for my lord governor’s grace, price thereof 40s.

February 1551/52 Item deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe ane pair of sokkis to my lord gouernour v quarteris of bukcrame price þairof—v s vij d ob [694]

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a pair of socks for my lord governor, 1¼ ells of buckram, price thereof 5s 7½d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 23 5

March 1551/52 Item xjo marcii deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe ane coit and cloik to my lord gouernour v elnis and ane half stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xl s Summa—xj li

Item, March 11th, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a coat and cloak for my lord governor, 5½ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 40s; total: £11.

Item ix quarteris blak satin to bordour þis cloik and coit price of þe elne xl s Summa— iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to border this cloak and coat, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item vij elnis blak fustiane to lyne this coit wt price of þe elne viij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 7 ells of black fustian to line this coat with, price of each ell 8s; total: 56s.

Item ane quarter half quarter taffiteis of Janys to lyne þe breistis and handis of þis coit price þairof—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta of Genoa to line the breasts and sleeve hems of this coat, price thereof 6s.

Item vj vnce blak paris silk to stik þis coit and cloik price of þe vnce viij s Summa— xlviij s

Item, 6 ounces of black Paris silk to sew this coat and cloak, price of each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þis coit price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—v s

Item, 24 buttons for this coat, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 5s.

Item for ane hat of welwett to his grace price þairof—xxxvj s

Item, for a hat of velvet for his grace, price thereof 36s.

Item deliuerit to robert gourlay tobe beltis and gartanis to my lord gouernour tway elnis of taffiteis of four thredis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [700]

Item, delivered to Robert Gourlay, to be belts and garters for my lord governor, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

April 1552 Item xvo aprilis deliuerit to robert gourlay xvij elnis holand clay t to be sarkis to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xiij s Summa—xj li xij d

Item, April 15th, delivered to Robert Gourlay, 17 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor, price of each ell 13s; total: £11 0s 12d.

Item vj quarteris fyne holand claith tobe ruffis and nekkis to þe saidis sarkis price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of fine Holland cloth to be ruffs and collars for the said shirts, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

236

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item deliuerit to archebald deware thre elnis thre quarteris vnprest black tobe ane cloik to his grace price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li x s

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 3¾ ells of unpressed black to be a cloak for his grace, price of each ell 40s; total: £7 10s.

Item vij quarteris fyne blak welwet to bordour þis cloik price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of fine black velvet to border this cloak, price of each ell £4; total: £7.

Item for cantailȝeis sewing silk and buttonis to þe samyn—xx s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk and buttons for the same, 20s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald tway elnis londoune browne to be ane riding coit to his grace price of þe elne l s Summa—v li

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, 2 ells of London brown to be a riding coat for his grace, price of each ell 50s; total: £5.

Item tway elnis tanny welwett to bordoure þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— vij li

Item, 2 ells of tawny velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item for stiking silk and buttonis to þe samyn coit—xvj s

Item, for sewing silk and buttons for the same coat, 16s.

Item foure elnis bukcrame to lyne þe samyn and to be powchis to it price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 4 ells of buckram to line the same, and to be pockets for it, price of each ell 4s; total: 16s.

Item vij quarteris fyne blak welwett to be þeis of hois to his grace price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of fine black velvet to be thighs of hose for his grace, price of each ell £4; total: £7.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to þe samyn—x s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk for the same, 10s.

Item tway elnis taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item thre quarteris braid reid to lyne the samyn price þairof—xxj s

Item, ¾ ell of broad red to line the same, price thereof 21s.

Item fyve quarteris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þe samyn price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for the same, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 237

Item four dosane pointtis deliuerit to robert gourlay kepar of his grace garderobe price of þe dosane xxviij d Summa—ix s iiij d

Item, 48 points, delivered to Robert Gourlay, keeper of his grace’s wardrobe, price of each dozen 28d; total: 9s 4s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald thre elnis ane quarter quhite fustiane to lyne ane dowblet to my lord gouernouris grace of gowgrane the gowgrane gevin out of his graces garderob price of þe elne vj s Summa—xix s vj d

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, 3¼ ells of white fustian to line a doublet for my lord governor’s grace of grosgrain, the grosgrain given out of his grace’s wardrobe, price of each ell 6s; total: 19s 6d.

Item for stinting canves to þe samyn—iiij s

Item, for stiffening canvas for the same, 4s.

Item for buttonis to þe samyn—iij s vj d

Item, for buttons for the same, 3s 6d.

Item ane elne of welwet to be tway bonettis to his grace price þairof iiij li

Item, for an ell of velvet to be two bonnets for his grace, price thereof £4.

Item for satin and bukcrame to lyne þe samyn—xvj s

Item, for satin and buckram to line the same, 16s.

Item deliuerit to archebald dewar to walt ane gowne of my lord gouernouris of blak dames þe dames gottin furt of his awne garderob half ane elne half ane quarter blak welwett price þairof—xlv s

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar to trim a gown of my lord governor’s of black damask, the damask gotten forth from his own wardrobe, ⅝ ell of black velvet, price thereof 45s.

Item to Johnne crag furrour for furring of þe samyn wt cunnyng skynnis—xiij li

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the same with rabbit skins, £13.

Item ane elne bukcrame to lyne þe bordouris of þe said gowne price þairof—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line the borders of the said gown, price thereof 4s.

Item deliuerit to inglis williame half ane elne half ane quarter fyne blak welwett to be schone to his grace price þairof—l s

Item, delivered to English William, ⅝ ell of fine black velvet to be shoes for his grace, price thereof 50s.

Item tway spanȝe skynnis to be buskynnis to his grace price of þe peice xxxiiij s Summa— iij li viij s [706]

Item, two Spanish skins to be buskins for his grace, price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

23 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

May 1552 Item viijo maii deliuerit to archebald deware vij elnis thre quarteris welwet of dowble pyle to be ane coit to my lord gouernour borderit with þe self price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxxj li

Item, May 8th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 7¾ ells of velvet of double pile, to be a coat for my lord governor, bordered with the same velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £31.

Item foure elnis bukkasye rais to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 4 ells razed bocasin to line the same, price of each ell 12s; total: 48s.

Item vij vnce of cantailȝeis and sewing silk put on þe samyn bordouris price of þe vnce viij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 7 ounces of cantailyes and sewing silk put on the same borders, price of each ounce 8s; total: 56s.

Item thre dosane of buttonis put on þe samin coit price of þe dosane xx d Summa—v s

Item, 36 buttons put on the same coat, price of each dozen 20d; total: 5s.

Item ane quarter of taffiteis to lyne the breistis and handis of þe samyn coit price—iiij s

Item, ¼ ell of taffeta to line the breasts and sleeve hems of the same coat, price 4s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald sewin elnis taffiteis of gowgrane tobe ane dowblet and ane ryding cloik to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xlv s Summa—xv li xv s

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, 7 ells of taffeta of grosgrain to be a doublet and a riding cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 45s; total: £15 15s.

Item tway elnis welwet to bordour þis cloik price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of velvet to border this cloak, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk put on þe samyn bordouris price þairof—xxx s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk put on the same borders, price thereof 30s.

Item half ane dosane lang stalkit buttonis put on þe samyn cloik price—iiij s

Item, 6 long-shanked buttons put on the same cloak, price 4s.

Item tway elnis taffiteis of þe cord to lyne þe dowblet of gowgrane becaus It was cuttit out price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of the cord to line the doublet of grosgrain because it was cut out [pinked or slashed], price of each ell 18s; total: 36s.

Item vj quarteris small canves to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of fine canvas to line the same, price of each ell 4s; total: 6s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe breistis and handis of þe samyn price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s [716]

Item, 24 buttons for the breasts and sleeve hems of the same, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.



122

Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 239

Item xo maii deliuerit to þe said archebald v elnis and ane half fyne stemmyng of myllane tobe ane coit and cloik to my lord gouernouris grace price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xij li ij s

Item, May 10th, delivered to the same Archibald 5½ ells of fine stemming of Milan to be a coat and cloak for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell 44s; total: £12 2s.

Item ix quarteris blak satin to bordour þis cloik and coit price of þe elne xl s Summa— iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to border this cloak and coat, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item v vnce styking silk to þis cloik and coit price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xl s

Item, 5 ounces of sewing silk for this cloak and coat, price of each ounce 8s; total: 40s.

Item thre elnis taffiteis of þe cord to lyne þe coit price of þe elne xviij s Summa—liiij s

Item, 3 ells of taffeta of the cord to line the coat, price of each ell 18s; total: 54s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þis coit price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for this coat, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item tway spanȝe skynnis and ane half to be ane coit to his grace price of þe peice xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, two and a half 122 Spanish skins to be a coat for his grace, price of each piece 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item tway elnis canves to be ane corslett to beir his graces poynttis price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of canvas to be a corselet to bear his grace’s points, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item deliuerit to robert gourlay thre dosane buttonis to turs witht hyme to þe northland price of þe dosane ij s Summa—vj s

Item, delivered to Robert Gourlay, 36 buttons to carry with him to the northland, price of each dozen 2s; total: 6s.

Item tway elnis taffiteis to be beltis and gartanis to my lord gouernouris grace price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [717]

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to be belts and garters for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane hors hyrit furt of edinburght to arbrot witht ane maile and certane clething of my lord gouernouris quhilkis war not reddy at his departing furtht of Edinburgh—xx s [722]

Item, a horse rented to travel from Edinburgh to Arbroath with a trunk and certain clothing of my lord governor’s which were not ready at his departure from Edinburgh, 20s.

Item xiijo maii ane boy send furt of edinburght to lynlytqw witht certane clething to my lord gouernour and his wage—iij s [724]

Item, May 13th, a boy sent forth from Edinburgh to Linlithgow with certain clothing for my lord governor, and his wage, 3s.

The total of £3 12s would be correct for two skins. Two and a half at 36s each would cost £4 10s.

2 40

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

June 1552 Item Secundo Junij deliuerit to archebald deware xiij elnis and ane half blak dammes tobe ane gowne and ane coit to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxvij li

Item, June 2nd, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 13½ ells of black damask to be a gown and coat for my lord governor, price of each ell 40s; total: £27.

Item foure elnis thre quarteris fyne blak welwett to bordour þis coit and gowne price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xix li

Item, 4¾ ells of fine black velvet to border this coat and gown, price of each ell £4; total: £19.

Item vj vnces of cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe bordouris of þis gowne and coit price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 6 ounces of cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the borders of this gown and coat, price of each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item foure elnis and ane half bukcrame to lyne þis coit and þe bordouris of þis gowne price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xviij s

Item, 4½ ells of buckram to line this coat and the borders of this gown, price of each ell 4s; total: 18s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe coit price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the coat, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item ane quarter and half quarter taffiteis to lyne þe handis and breistis of þis coit price þairof—vj s [725]

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta to line the sleeve hems and breasts of this coat, price thereof 6s.

Item vj pares of gluvis deliuerit to robert gourlay for my lord gouernouris self price of þe pair ij s Summa—xij s

Item, 6 pairs of gloves delivered to Robert Gourlay, for my lord governor’s self, price of each pair 2s; total: 12s.

…

…

Item drynk siluer for þe samyn—xij d

Item, drinksilver for the same, 12d.

Item xxo Junii thre quarteris blak welwet deliuerit to inglis williame tobe schone to my lord gouernouris grace price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—liiij s

Item, June 20th, ¾ ell of black velvet delivered to English William to be shoes for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 54s.

Item tway spanȝe skynnis bocht fra M/ James lyndsay and deliuerit to þe said williame to be buskynnis to his grace becaus þe vþir buskynnis maid of befoir was oure lityll price of þe peice xlij s Summa—iiij li iiij s [728]

Item, two Spanish skins bought from Master James Lindsay, and delivered to the said William to be buskins for his grace because the other buskins made before were too small, price of each piece 42s; total: £4 4s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 2 4 1

Item deliuerit to archebald deware vj quarteris auld bukcrame to turs ane welwett coit and certane vþir clething of my lord gouernouris to abirdene price þairof—iiij s [731]

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1½ ells of old buckram to carry a velvet coat and certain other clothing of my lord governor’s to Aberdeen, price thereof 4s.

July 1552 Item xxjo Julii deliuerit to archebald dewar vj quarteris auld bukcrame to turs ane gowne and ane coit of my lord gouernouris to Inuernes price of þe elne iij s Summa—iiij s vj d [736]

Item, July 21st, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1½ ells of old buckram to carry a gown and a coat of my lord governor’s to Inverness, price of each ell 3s; total: 4s 6d.

September 1552 Item viijo septembris deliuerit to archebald deware vij quarteris blak welwett to be hois to my lord gouernour price of þe elne iij li xvj s Summa—vj li xiij s

Item, September 8th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1¾ ells of black velvet to be hose for my lord governor, price of each ell £3 16s; total £6 13s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter braid reid to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxj s iij d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line the same, price of each ell 34s; total: 21s 3d.

Item vij quarteris taffiteis to þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of taffeta for the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item v quarteris stemmyng of myllane tobe schankis to þe samyn price of þe elne xlij s Summa—lij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for the same, price of each ell 42s; total: 52s 6d.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe samyn—xiiij s [743]

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the same, 14s.

Item for ane hatt to my lord gouernour—xl s [745]

Item, for a hat for my lord governor, 40s.

Item vjto septembris ane boy send furt of edinburt witht claithis to my lord gouernouris his grace being in Elgin and his wage—xxx s [748]

Item, September 6th, a boy sent forth from Edinburgh with clothes for my lord governor’s grace, being in Elgin, and his wage, 30s.

2 4 2

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

October 1552 Item primo octobris deliuerit to robert gourlay xvj elnis holand clayt tobe sarkis to my lord gouernouris grace price of þe elne x s Summa—viij li

Item, October 1st, delivered to Robert Gourlay, 16 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor’s grace, price of each ell 10s; total: £8.

Item vj quarteris small holand clay t tobe ruffis and nekkis to þe samyn price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of fine Holland cloth to be ruffs and collars for the same, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Itm ane vnce of small skenȝe threid to sew þir sarkis witht price þairof—iiij s vj d [750]

Item, an ounce of fine skein thread to sew these shirts with, price thereof 4s 6d.

Item octauo octobris tway elnis cambreche clayt deliuerit to robert gourlay tobe naipkynnis to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxx s

Item, October 8th, 2 ells of cambric cloth delivered to Robert Gourlay to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor, price of each ell 15s; total: 30s.

Item half ane elne half ane quarter blak welwett deliuerit to inglis williame tobe schone and pantonis to his grace price of þe elne iiij li Summa—l s

Item, ⅝ ell of black velvet delivered to English William to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for his grace, price of each ell £4; total: 50s.

Item v quarteris bukcrame deliuerit to arche bald dewar to be sokkis to his grace price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—v s vij d [751]

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram delivered to Archibald Dewar to be socks for his grace, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 5s 7d.123

Item tway elnis taffiteis of foure thredis deliuerit to robert gourlay tobe ane belt and gartanis to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [753]

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads, delivered to Robert Gourlay to be a belt and garters for my lord governor, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

November 1552

123

Item xo nouembris deliuerit to archebald deware v elnis and ane half and half ane quarter stemmyng of myllane to be ane coit and ane cloik to my lord gouernour price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xj li xvj s iij d

Item, November 10th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 5⅝ ells of stemming of Milan to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, price of each ell 42s; total: £11 16s 3d.

Item ix quarteris satin to lyne the bordouris of þis cloik and coit price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of satin to line the borders of this cloak and coat, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

The total should be 5s 7½d.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 2 43

Item v vnce paris silk to styk þe samin price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xl s

Item, 5 ounces of Paris silk to sew the same, price of each ounce 8s; total 40s.

Item vij elnis fustyane to lyne þe coit price of þe elne vij s Summa—xlix s

Item, 7 ells of fustian to line the coat, price of each ell 7s; total: 49s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe samin price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item quarter and half quarter taffiteis of four thredis to lyne þe breistis of þe samin price—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta of four threads to line the breasts of the same, price 6s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald ane elne fyne blak welwett to be bonettis to my lord gouernour price þairof—iiij li

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, an ell of fine black velvet to be bonnets for my lord governor, price thereof £4.

Item ane quarter blak satin to lyne the samyn price þairof—ix s

Item, ¼ ell of black satin to line the same, price thereof 9s.

Item thre quarteris bukcrame price þairof— ij s [756]

Item, ¾ ell of buckram, price thereof 2s.

Item to williame quhite for schone butis and pantonis to my lord gouernour sen þe xx day of Januare last bipast conforme to his compt byll—ix li xj s vj d [762]

Item, to William White for shoes, boots, and slippers [or overshoes] for my lord governor since the 20th day of this past January, conforming to his account bill, £9 11s 6d.

December 1552 Item quarto decembris deliuerrit to archibald dewar tua elnis & ane half taffateis of growgrane to be ane doublet to my lorde gouernour þe elne xlvj s Summa—v li xv s

Item, December 4th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 2½ ells of taffeta of grosgrain to be a doublet for my lord governor, each ell 46s; total: £5 15s.

Item thre elnis and ane half fustiane to lyne þe samyn þe elne vj s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3½ ells of fustian to line the same, each ell 6s; total: 21s.

Item v quarteris stenting canves to þe same þe elne iiij s iiij d Summa—iiij s ij d

Item, 1¼ ells of stiffening canvas for the same, each ell 3s 4d; total: 4s 2d.

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to þe same þe dosoun ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item vj quarteris and ane half fyne blak welwote to be theis of hois to his grace þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li x s

Item, 1⅝ ells of fine black velvet to be thighs of hose for his grace, each ell £4; total: £6 10s.

244

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item v quarteris stemyng of myllane to be schankis to þe same price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for the same, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item for cantelȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe theis of þir hois—xvj s vj d

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the thighs of these hose, 16s 6d.

Item vij quarteris blak taffateis of foure thredis to þe same hois þe elne xvj s Summa— xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta of four threads for the same hose, each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter braid reid to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xxx s Summa—xviij s ix d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line the same, price of each ell 30s; total: 18s 9d.

Item deliuerit to robert gourlay tua elnis taffateis of foure thredis to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [770]

Item, delivered to Robert Gourlay 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to be belt and garters for my lord governor, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item thre pair of perfvmyt gluffis to my lorde gouernour—ix s

Item, three pairs of perfumed gloves for my lord governor, 9s.

Item tua pair of dog ledder gluffis lynit wt cheveronis to his grace—viij s [774]

Item, two pairs of dog leather gloves lined with kidskin for his grace, 8s.

Item ane elne round canves to turs ane new doublat of my lorde gouernoures & ane pair of hois to his grace to hammiltoun—ij s iiij d

Item, an ell of heavy canvas to carry a new doublet of my lord governor’s and a pair of hose to his grace at Hamilton, 2s 4d.

Item ane boy þt bure þe same to hammiltoun—vj s viij d [780]

Item, to a boy that bore the same to Hamilton, 6s 8d.

February 1552/53 Item to Robert gourlay to gif for ane spunge to þe gairdrap—v s [792]

Item, to Robert Gourlay, to give for a sponge for the wardrobe, 5s.

Item tua hors hyrit furthe of Edinburght to hammiltoun ane to turs certane clething of my lorde gouernoures and þe other to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour quha past wt þe saidis clathis ilk hors xiiij s Summa—xxviij s [793]

Item, two horses rented to go forth from Edinburgh to Hamilton, one to carry certain clothing of my lord governor’s and the other for John Anderson, tailor, who traveled with the said clothing, each horse 14s; total: 28s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 2 45

March 1552/53 Item viijo marcii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar vij quarteris Inglische claythe of ryche coloure to be ane ryding cote to my Lorde gouernour þe elne l s Summa—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, March 8th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1¾ ells of English cloth of rich color to be a riding coat for my Lord Governor, each ell 50s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis blak welwote to bordoure þe same þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to border the same, each ell £4; total: £8.

Item tua vnce cantelȝeis and sewing silk to þe bordoures of þis cote price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 2 ounces of cantailyes and sewing silk for the borders of this coat, price of each ounce 8s; total: 16s.

Item thre elnis bukrum to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of buckram to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to þe same þe ds ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item iij elnis and ane half vnprest blak of þe seill of rowane to be ane ryding cloke to his grace þe elne iij li Summa—x li x s

Item, 3½ ells of unpressed black of the seal of Rouen to be a riding cloak for his grace, each ell £3; total: £10 10s.

Item vij quarteris fyne blak welwote to bordour þe same þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of fine black velvet to border the same, each ell £4; total: £7.

Item tua vnce pareis silk to steik in þe same bordoures price—xvj s

Item, 2 ounces of Paris silk to sew in the same borders, price 16s.

Item vj quarteris rounde canves to pak þis cloke & cote in þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—iij s vj d [794]

Item, 1½ ells of heavy canvas to pack this cloak and coat in, each ell 2s 4d; total: 3s 6d.

Item xiijo marcii x elnis and ane half tanny dalmes deliuerit to þe said archiebald to be ane ny t goun to his grace þe elne xlv s Summa—xxiij li xij s vj d

Item, March 13th, 10½ ells of tawny damask, delivered to the said Archibald to be a night gown for his grace, each ell 45s; total: £23 12s 6d.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter tannye welwote to wat þe same price—xliij s ix d

Item, ⅝ ell of tawny velvet to trim the same, price 43s 9d.

Item ane elne of bukrum to beir þe furring of þis goun—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to bear the furring of this gown, 4s.

2 46

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to Jhone craig furrour for putting in of ane furring of martrikkis of my lorde gouernoures awyn in þe said goun for his lauboures & for silk—xiiij s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for putting in of a furring of marten of my lord governor’s own, in the said gown, for his labors, and for silk, 14s.

Item to him for putting In of ane furryng of cvnynges wt lambe skynnis in þe bak of ane goun of tannye sating of his graces ffor his lauboures In mending of þe said furryng wt ane dosoun of lambskynnis—xxx s [795]

Item, to him for putting in of a furring of rabbit with lamb skins in the back of a gown of tawny satin of his grace’s, for his labors in mending of the said furring with a dozen of lamb skins, 30s.

Item xv to marcii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar fyve elnis and ane half serge of florence to be ane cote and ane cloke to my lorde gouernour þe elne xlvj s Summa—xij li xiij s

Item, March 15th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 5½ ells of serge of Florence to be a coat and a cloak for my lord governor, each ell 46s; total: £12 13s.

Item vij elnis blak fustiane to lyne þe cote þe elne vij s Summa—xlix s

Item, 7 ells of black fustian to line the coat, each ell 7s; total: 49s.

Item foure dosoun of buttonis quhairof tua dosoun put on þe cote, and tua put in þe pvche of It þe dosoun ij s Summa—viij s

Item, 48 buttons, whereof two dozen put on the coat, and two put in the pockets of it, each dozen 2s; total: 8s.

Item ane quartar and ane half quartar taffate to lyne þe breistis of þe same þe elne xvj s Summa—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta to line the breasts of the same, each ell 16s; total: 6s.

Item quartar and half quartar bukrum to be pouchis to it—xviij d

Item, ⅜ ell of buckram to be pockets for it, 18d.

Item ix quartaris blak satyng to bordour þis cloke and cote þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to border this cloak and coat, each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item v vnce stekyng silk and small silk to þis cote and cloke price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xl s

Item, 5 ounces of sewing silk and fine silk for this coat and cloak, price of each ounce 8s; total: 40s.

Item vj quartaris bukrum to turs þis cloke and cote in to Linlythqw þe elne ij s viij d Summa—iiij s [796]

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to carry this cloak and coat in to Linlithgow, each ell 2s 8d.; total: 4s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 2 47

Item xxjo marcii tua elnis and ane half taffate growgrane deliuerit to archiebald dewar to be his grace ane doublat þe elne xliiij s Summa—v li x s

Item, March 21st, 2½ ells of taffeta grosgrain, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be a doublet for his grace, each ell 44s; total: £5 10s.

Item tua elnis lynnyng claith to lyne þis doublat of my lorde gouernoures þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of lining [linen?] cloth to line this doublet of my lord governor’s, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item v quartaris small canves to stent þe same þe elne iij s Summa—iij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of fine canvas to stiffen the same, each ell 3s; total: 3s 9d.

Item for buttonis to it—iij s iiij d

Item, for buttons for it, 3s 4d.

Item half ane quartar vnce silk to þe buttoun holis price—ij s

Item, ⅛ ounce of silk for the buttonholes, price 2s.

Item vj quartaris and ane half fyne blak welwote to be stokkis of hois to his grace þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li x s

Item, 1⅝ ells of fine black velvet to be stocks of hose for his grace, each ell £4; total: £6 10s.

Item vij quartaris taffateis to lyne þe samyn þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of taffeta to line the same, each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item thre quartaris braid reid to lyne þe samyn þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxj s

Item, ¾ ell of broad red to line the same, each ell 28s; total: 21s.

Item an vnce steking silk to þe same—viij s

Item, an ounce of sewing silk for the same, 8s.

Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þe same þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs to the same, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item vj quartaris reid bukrum to turs þir clathis in to his grace—iiij s

Item, 1½ ells of red buckram to carry these clothes in to his grace, 4s.

Item quartar & half quartar armosene taffateis deliuerrit to þe said archiebald to lyne ane spanȝe felt hat of my lorde goures—xiij s vj d

Item, ⅜ ell of armosene taffeta, delivered to the said Archibald to line a Spanish felt hat of my lord governor’s, 13s 6d.

Item half ane vnce steking silk to steik þe same—iiij s

Item, ½ ounce of sewing silk to sew the same, 4s.

Item v quartaris pasment silk to put aboute þis hat þe elne xvj d Summa—xx d [797]

Item, 1¼ ells of silk passementerie to put about this hat, each ell 16d; total: 20d.

248

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item deliuerrit to þe said robart to be belt and gartanis to my lorde gouernour tua elnis taffate of foure thredis þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, delivered to the said Robert to be belt and garters for my lord governor, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item vj quartaris bukrum to be ane pair of sokkis to my lorde gouernour þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s [799]

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for my lord governor, each ell 4s; total: 6s.

Item vltimo marcii to ane boy þt bure tua furrit gownes of my lorde gouernoures ane of tannye sating ane other of tanny dalmes furt of Edinburght to Striuiling—vj s viij d

Item, the last day of March, to a boy that bore two furred gowns of my lord governor’s, one of tawny satin, another of tawny damask, forth from Edinburgh to Stirling, 6s 8d.

Item vj quartaris canves to pak þe same— iiij s

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to pack the same, 4s.

Item for cordes to turs þe same wt—vj d [803]

Item, for cords to wrap the same with, 6d.

Item ijo marcii to gentill man send to my lorde gouernour being in Linlithqw wt ane exampill of tannye dalmes to se gif his grace thoucht þe same ganand to be him ane nyt goun—iij s [804]

Item, March 2nd, to a gentleman sent to my lord governor, being in Linlithgow, with an example of tawny damask, to see if his grace thought the same suitable to be a night gown for him, 3s.

April 1553 Item xo aprilis deliuerrit to archiebald dewar ane elne blak welwote to be tua bonettis to my lorde gouernour—iiij li

Item, April 10th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, an ell of black velvet to be two bonnets for my lord governor, £4.

Item ane quartar of blak sating to lyne þe same—x s

Item, ¼ ell of black satin to line the same, 10s.

Item thre quartaris bukrum to þe same—iij s

Item, ¾ ell of buckram for the same, 3s.

Item v elnis blak welwote deliuerrit to þe said archiebald to bordoure ane goun & ane cote to my lorde gouernour of grawgrane gottin furt of his graces awyn gairdrap þe elne iiij li Summa—xx li

Item, 5 ells of black velvet, delivered to the said Archibald, to border a gown and a coat for my lord governor of grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s own wardrobe, each ell £4; total: £20.

Item v vnce cantelȝeis to put on þe bordoures of þis goun and cote þe vnce viij s Summa—xl s

Item, 5 ounces of cantailyes to put on the borders of this gown and coat, each ounce 8s; total: 40s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 2 49

Item tua vnce of silk to sew on þe cantelȝeis þe vnce viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 2 ounces of silk to sew on the cantailyes, each ounce 8s; total: 16s.

Item ane elne of bukrame to stuf þe schulderis of þis goun—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to stuff the shoulders of this gown, 4s.

Item v elnis bambasye rais to lyne þis cote þe elne xij s Summa—iij li

Item, 5 ells of razed bombazine to line this coat, each ell 12s; total: £3.

Item iij ds of buttonis to þis cote þe dosoun xx d Summa—v s

Item, 36 buttons for this coat, each dozen 20d; total: 5s.

Item tua elnis ald bukrum to pak þis goune and cote with þe elne ij s viij d Summa—v s iiij d

Item, 2 ells of old buckram to pack this gown and coat with, each ell 2s 8d; total: 5s 4d.

Item be his graces commande to archiebald dewarris seruande in drinksyluer—xxiij s [808]

Item, by his grace’s command, to Archibald Dewar’s servant in drinksilver, 23s.

May 1553

124

Item vjto Maii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar xiiij elnis taffateis of growgrane to be tua gownis and tua cottis to my lorde gouernoures sonnes Dauid and Claude And to be ane doublat to his graces self. And to perfurnis ane goun and ane cote of growgrane gottin furthe of his graces gairdrap þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxx li xvj s

Item, May 6th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 14 ells of taffeta of grosgrain to be two gowns and two coats for my lord governor’s sons, David and Claude, and to be a doublet for his grace’s self, and to perform [decorate? enlarge?] a gown and a coat of grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s wardrobe, each ell 34s; total: £30 16s.124

…

…

Item tua elnis ane quartar and half ane quartar of taffate of genis to lyne þis doublat of my lorde gouernoures of growgrane becaus it wes cuttit out þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxviij s

Item, 2⅜ ells of taffeta of Genoa to line this doublet of my lord governor’s of grosgrain because it was cut out [pinked or slashed], each ell 16s; total: 38s.

Item v quartaris canves to stent þe same doublat—iij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to stiffen the same doublet, 3s 9d.

Item iij elnis bokasye to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells bocasin to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to þis same—iij s iiij d [814]

Item, 24 buttons for this same, 3s 4d.

The total should be £23 16s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s instead of 34s.

25 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item xiiijto Maii ane boy send to linly tqw wt butis and schone to my lorde gouernoures grace—iij s

Item, May 14th, to a boy sent to Linlithgow with boots and shoes for my lord governor’s grace, 3s.

Item xvjto Maii ane boy send to Striuiling wt ane cote and ane goun of growgrane to his grace—vj s viij d [815]

Item, May 16th, to a boy sent to Stirling with a coat and a gown of grosgrain for his grace, 6s 8d.

July 1553 Item xxvijo Julii deliuerrit to robert gourlay xxiiij elnis hollande claith to be sarkis to my lorde gouernour þe elne xj s Summa—xiij li iiij s

Item, July 27th, delivered to Robert Gourlay, 24 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for my lord governor, each ell 11s; total: £13 4s.

Item iij elnis fyne holland claith to be ruffis and nekkis to þe same þe elne xviij s Summa—liiij s

Item, 3 ells of fine Holland cloth to be ruffs and collars for the same, each ell 18s; total: 54s.

Item tua vnce small Inglische threid to sew þe samyn with—viij s

Item, 2 ounces of fine English thread to sew the same with, 8s.

Item tua elnis small hollande claith to be nycht quaiffis to my lorde gouernoure price of the elne xiij s Summa—xxvj s

Item, 2 ells of fine Holland cloth to be night coifs for my lord governor, price of each ell 13s; total: 26s.

Item tua elnis rounde hollande claithe to lyne thir nycht quaiffis of my Lord gouernourres pryce of þe elne viij s Summa of the tua elne—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of heavy Holland cloth to line these night coifs of my lord governor’s, price of each ell 8s; total of the 2 ells: 16s.

Item vxx elnis blak trasis to be put vpoun þir quaiffis of my lorde gouernoures þe elne vj d Summa—l s

Item, 100 ells of black traces to be put upon these coifs of my lord governor’s, each ell 6d; total: 50s.

Item thre quarteris of ane vnce blak silk to sew on þir trasis þe vnce viij s Summa—vj s [821]

Item, ¾ ounce of black silk to sew on these traces, each ounce 8s; total: 6s.

Item deliuerrit to archiebald dewarris seruande to be ane doublat to my lorde gouernoures grace foure elnis small canves þe elne iiij s Summa—xvj s [823]

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar’s servant to be a doublet for my lord governor’s grace, 4 ells of fine canvas, each ell 4s; total: 16s.



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 25 1

August 1553 Item ijo Augusti to Archiebald Dewar vj elnis serge of florence to be ane cloke and ane cote to my lorde gouernour þe elne xlvj s Summa—xiij li xvj s

Item, August 2nd, to Archibald Dewar, 6 ells of serge of Florence to be a cloak and a coat for my lord governor, each ell 46s; total: £13 16s.

Item ix quartaris blak sating to lyne þe bordoures of þe same þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to line the borders of the same, each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item vj vnce and ane quartar of ane vnce to steik þe samyn þe vnce viij s Summa—l s

Item, 6¼ ounces [of silk] to sew the same, each ounce 8s; total: 50s.

Item thre elnis bukrame to lyne þe cote þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of buckram to line the coat, each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item quartar and half quartar taffate of genis to lyne þe breistis and handis of þis cote þe elne xvj s Summa—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta of Genoa to line the breasts and sleeve hems of this coat, each ell 16s; total: 6s.

Item iij ds of buttonis to þis cote þe dosoun ij s Summa—vj s

Item, 36 buttons for this coat, each dozen 2s; total: 6s.

Item vj quartaris and ane half fyne blak welwote to be stokis of hois to his grace þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li x s

Item, 1⅝ ells of fine black velvet to be stocks of hose for his grace, each ell £4; total: £6 10s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þir hois þe elne xxviij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line these hose, each ell 28s; total: 17s 6d.

Item vj quartaris taffate of genis to þe same þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of Genoa for the same, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item tua elnis and ane half growgrane to be ane doublat to his grace þe elne xliiij s Summa—v li x s

Item, 2½ ells of grosgrain to be a doublet for his grace, each ell 44s; total: £5 10s.

Item iij elnis bokasye to lyne þis doublat þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of bocasin to line this doublet, each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item v quartaris and ane half canves to stent þis doublat þe elne iij s Summa—iiij s j d ob

Item, 1⅜ ells of canvas to stiffen this doublet, each ell 3s; total: 4s 1½d.

25 2

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to þis doublat þe dosoun ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for this doublet, each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item vjto augusti vj quartaris buckrum to turs þir clathis In to my lorde gouernour þe elne ij s viij d Summa—iiij s [825]

Item, August 6th, 1½ ells of buckram to carry these clothes in to my lord governor, each ell 2s 8d; total: 4s.

Item viijo augusti to archiebald dewar fyve elnis tannye welwote to bordour ane goun & ane cote of my lorde gouernoures of tanny growgrane þe growgrane gottin furt of his graces gairdrap þe elne iiij li Summa—xx li

Item, August 8th, to Archibald Dewar, 5 ells of tawny velvet to border a gown and a coat of my lord governor’s of tawny grosgrain, the grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s wardrobe, each ell £4; total: £20.

Item vj vnce cantalȝeas and sewing silk to put on þe samyn bordoures þe vnce viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 6 ounces of cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the same borders, each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item v elnis bombasye rais to lyne þe cote þe elne xij s Summa—iij li

Item, 5 ells of razed bombazine to line the coat, each ell 12s; total: £3.

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to þe cote þe dosoun xx d Summa—iij s iiij d

Item, 24 buttons for the coat, each dozen 20d; total: 3s 4d.

Item vj quartaris bukrum to lyne þe bordoures of þe goun and to be pvchis to þe cote þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to line the borders of the gown and to be pockets for the coat, each ell 4s; total: 6s.

Item quartar and half quartar taffate of foure thredis to lyne þe breistis and handis of þis cote of growgrane—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta of four threads to line the breasts and sleeve hems of this coat of grosgrain, 6s.

Item iij elnis and ane half tannye sating to be his grace ane doublat þe elne xl s Summa— vij li

Item, 3½ ells of tawny satin to be a doublet for his grace, each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item vj quartaris canves to stent þis doublat þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—iij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to stiffen this doublet, each ell 2s 4d; total: 3s 6d.

Item tua elnis & ane half small lynyng claith to lyne þis doublat þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—v s x d

Item, 2½ ells of fine lining [linen?] cloth to line this doublet, each ell 2s 4d; total: 5s 10d.

Item tua dosoun of buttonis to it—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for it, 4s.

Item vj quartaris and ane half fyne tanny welwot to be stokis of hois to his grace þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li x s

Item, 1⅝ ells of fine tawny velvet to be stocks of hose for his grace, each ell £4; total: £6 10s.



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Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þe samyn þe elne xxviij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of broad red to line the same, each ell 28s; total: 17s 6d.

Item vj quartaris taffateis of foure thredis to þe same þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of four threads for the same, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þe same þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xlv s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be legs for the same, each ell 36s; total: 45s.

Item ane quartar of ane vnce of tannye silk to steik þe buttoune hollis and þe guscheatis and pyis of þir hois—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce of tawny silk to sew the buttonholes and the gussets and eyelets of these hose, 2s.

Item ane elne fyne welwote to be bonnettis to his grace—iiij li

Item, an ell of fine velvet to be bonnets for his grace, £4.

Item ane quartar of sating to lyne þe samyn—x s

Item, ¼ ell of satin to line the same, 10s.

Item for bukrum to stuf þe bonettis—iij s [826]

Item, for buckram to stuff the bonnets, 3s.

September 1553 Item xo Sepbris thre quartaris fyne tanny welwote deliuerit to archiebald Dewar to wat ane goun of my lorde gouernoures of tanny growgrane, þe growgrane gottin furt of his graces gairdrap price—iij li

Item, September 10th, ¾ ell of fine tawny velvet delivered to Archibald Dewar to trim a gown of my lord governor’s of tawny grosgrain, the grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s wardrobe, price £3.

Item tua elnis bukrame to lyne þe bordoures of þis goun of growgrane þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line the borders of this gown of grosgrain, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for foure dosoun and fyve cwnyng skynnes put in þe fore quartaris of þis goun and blak skynnes put in þe bak of it—xvj li

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for 53 rabbit skins put in the forequarters of this gown and black skins put in the back of it, £16.

Item be my lorde gouernoures commande to þe said Jhones seruand in drinksyluer—xiiij s [840]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to the said John’s servant in drinksilver, 14s.

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Item ane quartar of tannye dalmes to translait ane goune nek of my Lord gouernoures of tannye dalmes price—xj s

Item, ¼ ell of tawny damask to alter the neck of my lord governor’s gown of tawny damask, price 11s.

Item tua elnis small canves to be ane fals doublat to his grace þe elne iiij s Summa— viij s [845]

Item, 2 ells of fine canvas to be a false doublet for his grace, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item to williame quhyte cordinar for buittis and schone furnist to my Lorde gouernour and his grace page be þe space of þis compte—xiiij li xvj s [851]

Item, to William White, cordwainer, for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor and his grace’s page during the period covered by this account, £14 16s.

Item v quartaris bukrum to be ane pair of Sokkis to my Lorde þe elne iiij s Summa—v s [852]

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to be a pair of socks for my lord, each ell 4s; total: 5s.

Summaries of the Earl of Arran’s Wardrobe Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary January 1542/43 Spanish cloak (Paris black) [2] February 1542/43 shoes (French black) [11] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet, lined with demigrain) [11] March 1542/43 cap of state and kirtle for parliament (French brown, the fronts lined with white taffeta of Genoa, with a belt of purple taffeta of Genoa) [19] 24 ells of bleached Bretagne cloth [20) belt (black taffeta of Genoa) [21] garters (black taffeta of Genoa) [21] shoes (black velvet) [21] jack [22]



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April 1543 handkerchiefs (cambric) [27] 2 ells Holland cloth [27] garters (white taffeta of cord) [27] coat (Moroccan leather, trimmed with a passementerie of gold and silk) [27] riding cloak (color de roy, the inside of the neck lined with velvet in October 1546 [222]) [29] May 1543 garters (black taffeta) [40] shoes (fine black velvet) [40] shoes (white velvet) [40] September 1543 coat (frieze lined with gray and buckram) [48] cloak (frieze) [48] 2 pairs of legs of hose (black stemming) [48] pair of socks (buckram) [50] shoes (black velvet) [50] November 1543 night gown (tawny damask, trimmed with tawny velvet, the neck lined with buckram) [55] pair of socks (trailye) [55] high shoes (velvet) [57] low shoes (velvet) [57] black, crimson, and white satin to enlarge the late king’s doublets (also embroidered) [58] gold and silver thread to sew passementeries on certain of the late king’s garments [58] 4 pairs of hose (black stemming, white stemming) [58] December 1543 garters (taffeta of cord) [63] belt (taffeta of cord) [63] tippet (taffeta of cord) [63] shirts (Holland cloth, one sewn with silk) [63] belts (taffeta of Genoa) [65] night kerchiefs (heavy Holland cloth) [65] jack [65] January 1543/44 hose (stemming, lined and sheared and drawn forth with taffeta) [69] harness doublet (canvas) [69] coat (fine Spanish frieze lined with buckram and gray, with 12 silk buttons) [69] cloak (fine Spanish frieze) [69] journey coat (taffeta of cord lined with buckram) [69]

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March 1543/44 3 shirts [75] pair of garters (taffeta of Genoa) [75] belt (taffeta of Genoa) [75] hose (purple velvet, drawn forth with blue taffeta of Genoa) [75] jack [75] April 1544 shoes (white velvet) [80] shoes (black velvet) [80] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [80] July 1544 pair of garters (taffeta of cord) [87] tippet (taffeta of cord) [87] legs for hose (stemming, sheared, the gussets sewn with silk) [87] legs for hose (cloth of Mechelen) [87] August 1544 covering for a steel helm [89] belt (taffeta of cord) [89] garters (taffeta of cord) [89] tippet (taffeta of cord) [89] October 1544 existing jack mended [96] November 1544 3 shirts [97] pair of socks (buckram) [98] pair of gloves [98] 36 silk points [98] buckram to be pockets to a coat [98] garters (taffeta of cord) [98] December 1544 shoes (black velvet) [103] January 1544/45 garters (taffeta of cord) [109] tippet [109] two more skins for the furring of his night gown [109]



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March 1544/45 2 shirts [117] night kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [117] coat (frieze) [117] cloak (frieze) [117] tippet for a steel helm (white taffeta of cord) [117] cloak (Rouen russet, trimmed with purple velvet) [117] coat (moran? grain, trimmed with velvet) [117] hose (black, trimmed and drawn forth with taffeta) [117] cassock (velvet, lined with taffeta) [117] April 1545 jack [127] leather gloves with plate armor [127] shoes (black velvet) [127] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet lined with demigrain) [127] handkerchiefs [129] 36 silk points [129] May 1545 hose (Paris black, trimmed and drawn forth with black taffeta) [139] garters (taffeta of cord) [139] belt (taffeta of Genoa) [139] tippet for a steel helm (taffeta of Genoa) [139] June 1545 garters (taffeta) [146] belt (taffeta of four threads) [146] belt (red taffeta of four threads) [146] pair of hose (stemming of Milan, lined) [146] 36 points [146] doublet (lined with fustian, stiffened) [146] cloak (frieze) [146] garters (taffeta) [146] existing chain for Order of the Cockle mended [146] 2 pairs of hose (stemming) [146] hose (sewn with red velvet, lined with red taffeta) [146] July 1545 tippet for a steel helm [154] August 1545 sleeves of plate [156] boots, shoes, and other necessities [156]

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October 1545 belt (taffeta of cord) [165] 7 shirts [165] 8 handkerchiefs [165] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [165] 8 pairs of gloves [165] belt (taffeta of Genoa) [165] shoes [165] 12 silk points [165] December 1545 hose (white stemming, lined with taffeta and another fabric) [170] coat (trimmed with purple velvet, lined with black gray, the bodies and sleeves lined with fustian, the scyes lined with taffeta, with buttons) [170] doublet (lined with fustian and stiffened with canvas) [170] shoes (velvet) [170] boots, shoes, and other necessities [175] January 1545/46 covering for a steel helm [181] bonnet (black) [181] tippet for a steel helm (taffeta of cord) [181] belt (taffeta of cord) [181] February 1545/46 cloak (fine Spanish frieze) [185] 36 points [185] March 1545/46 coat (Spanish frieze lined with buckram, with buttons of silk) [194] cloak (Spanish frieze) [194] hose (blue velvet, lined with demigrain, drawn forth with taffeta) [194] two pairs of legs to these hose (black) [194] whole hose (sheared black, trimmed and drawn forth with black taffeta, lined with demigrain) [194] doublet (satin, trimmed with passementerie of silk, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons of silk, sewn with black silk) [194] pair of socks (buckram) [194] April 1546 jack [195] two pairs of legs of hose (black stemming of Milan) [195] belt (taffeta of cord) [195]



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garters (taffeta of cord) [195] May 1546 bonnet [201] 24 silk points [201] bonnet [201] garters (taffeta of cord) [201] night kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [201] shoes (velvet) [201] hose (black stemming of Milan) [201] June 1546 gloves [204] socks (new buckram) [205] coat (English cloth trimmed with velvet, lined with buckram, sewn with silk, with 36 buttons) [205] doublet (trimmed with passementerie, lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas, sewn with silk) [205] July 1546 coat (fine Spanish frieze, with 12 silk buttons) [206] cloak (fine Spanish frieze) [206] tippet for a steel helm (taffeta of cord) [206] shoes (velvet) [206] August 1546 coat (velvet, trimmed with passementerie of gold) [210] hat (covered with taffeta) [210] hose (fine stemming of Milan) [210] 2 bonnets (velvet) [210] belt (fine taffeta of Genoa) [210] garters (fine taffeta of Genoa) [210] gown (taffeta of grosgrain, bordered with velvet—the borders sewn with silk, lined with black buckram) [210] coat (taffeta of grosgrain, bordered with velvet—the borders sewn with silk, lined with black buckram) [210] doublet (lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas, trimmed with passementerie of silk) [210] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [210] boots, shoes, and other necessities [214] October 1546 2 pairs of thighs of hose (fine Paris black, bordered with fine velvet, lined and trimmed with taffeta) [217] legs to these hose (fine stemming of Milan, lined with red, sewn with silk) [217]

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belt (taffeta) [217] garters (taffeta) [217] 48 silk points [218] coat (color de roy) [219] shirts (Holland cloth) [220] night kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [220] combing kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [220] handkerchiefs (cambric) [220] coat (frieze, lined with buckram, with buttons) [221, 228] cloak (frieze) [221] 6 pairs of gloves [227] 24 silk points [229] November 1546 combing kerchiefs (very fine Holland cloth) [233] cloak (frieze) [234] December 1546 2 pairs of shoes (black velvet) [241] belt (taffeta of Genoa) [241] garters (taffeta of Genoa) [241] gold for handkerchiefs [241, 245] shirts [245, 246, 247] January 1546/47 coat (English gray, bordered with gray velvet, lined with buckram, with gray fustian for the sleeves (as a lining?) [248] shoes (black velvet) [249] tippet (taffeta of cord) [249] bonnet (black) [249] bonnet (velvet) [252] March 1546/47 coat (Spanish frieze, with buttons, sewn with silk) [278, 279] cloak (Spanish frieze) [278] doublet (black satin, lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas, trimmed with passementerie, with buttons, sewn with silk) [279] riding coat (French tawny, bordered with tawny velvet, trimmed with cording silk, the bodies lined with black fustian and the hems with black gray) [281] cloak (tawny velvet, trimmed with tawny velvet) [282] shoes (Lucca velvet) [283] April 1547 cloak (frieze) [293]



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belt (taffeta of four threads) [295] garters (taffeta of four threads) [295] bonnet [295] hat (velvet) [295] doublet (black satin) [297] shoes (black velvet) [297] slippers [or overshoes] [297] May 1547 hose (the thighs of crimson velvet, the legs of red stemming) [302] garters to these hose (red taffeta of the cord) [302] coat (leather and black velvet, sewn with great Paris silk, with two buttons) [302] tippet for a steel helm (taffeta of the cord) [304] pair of socks (buckram) [304] hose (the thighs of Paris black, trimmed with velvet, lined, drawn forth? with taffeta, sewn with silk) [304] legs to these hose (stemming) [304] coat (fine black velvet, lined with new buckram, trimmed with passementerie of black silk and gold, with buttons, sewn with silk) [305] mourning gown and hood (Paris black) [306] mourning coat (Paris black, lined with buckram) [306] Spanish cloak (fine black, with 12 buttons) [306] mourning bonnet [306] June 1547 ribbons [310] cloak (color de roy, bordered with tawny velvet) [310] thighs of hose (Paris black, lined, bordered with black velvet, drawn forth? with taffeta, sewn with silk) [310] belt (red taffeta) [310] garters (red taffeta) [310] shirts (Holland cloth) [310] handkerchiefs (Holland cloth) [310] bonnet [310] July 1547 riding coat (English russet, bordered with gray velvet, lined with buckram, with buttons) [314] coat (Spanish frieze, lined with buckram, with 12 buttons) [314] cloak (Spanish frieze) [314] belt (taffeta) [314] garters (taffeta) [314] doublet (satin, lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [314] 36 silk points [316]

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handkerchiefs [316] 4 pairs of gloves [316] August 1547 jack (covered with purple armosene taffeta, lined with fustian and canvas) [321] purple velvet to re-cover it, as he was not content with the first covering [321] arm guards (covered with purple velvet, lined with fustian and decorated with gilt nails) [321] apron of plate (covered with purple velvet, lined with fustian and decorated with gilt nails) [321] 12 silk points [322] 2 pairs of shoes (black velvet) [323] pair of socks (buckram) [323] September 1547 gold cording for the cross on his jack [328] hose (utterfine, bordered with velvet, drawn forth? with taffeta, lined with red) [328] ribbons for a gown of his [329] gold for handkerchiefs [330] bonnet (black marabas) [331] coat (fine Spanish frieze, lined with black buckram, the bodies with black fustian, with 12 buttons) [331] cloak (fine Spanish frieze) [331] 24 silk points [331] bonnet [331] colored ribbons for his Order of the Cockle [331] October 1547 slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [333] 36 points [333] 3 pairs of gloves [333] doublet (satin, lined with fustian) [334] hose (black, trimmed with velvet, lined with red, sewn with silk) [335] November 1547 24 silk points for his jack apron and sleeves [338] belt (taffeta) [338] garters (taffeta) [338] 24 points for his hose [338] 3 pairs of gloves [338] December 1547 coat (fine black velvet, lined with buckram, the bodies lined with black fustian, trimmed with golden passementerie) [340] garters (black taffeta of the cord) [341]



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2 pairs of gloves [341] garters (red taffeta of the cord) [341] bonnet [341] ribbon silk for his Order of the Cockle [341] 4 double pippans of white silk [341] January 1547/48 cappadosye [cap or hood] (velvet) [346] socks (buckram) [346] coat (black velvet, trimmed with passementerie, lined with buckram and gray, with 18 silk buttons) [346] February 1547/48 riding coat (fine English russet, lined with buckram, trimmed with tawny velvet, with 18 buttons, sewn with silk) [350] hose (the thighs of Paris black, bordered with fine velvet—the borders sewn on with silk, drawn forth with taffeta, lined with demigrain) [350] legs to these hose (stemming of Milan) [350] coat (taffeta of grosgrain, bordered with fine black velvet—the borders sewn on with silk, lined with buckram, with 12 buttons) [350] shirts (Holland cloth) [351] night kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [351] 24 points [351] covering for a jack (lined) [351] March 1547/48 doublet (canvas) [354] 7 pairs of gloves [354] doublet (fine black satin, lined with black fustian, canvas—probably for stiffening, with buttons) [354] shoes [355] gloves [355] handkerchiefs [357] shoes (velvet) [357] April 1548 doublet (black satin, trimmed with passementerie, lined with fustian, with 18 buttons) [373] stocks of hose (black velvet, lined with taffeta of four threads and demigrain) [373] thighs of hose (Paris black, bordered with black velvet, lined with demigrain, drawn forth? with taffeta, sewn with silk) [373] legs to these hose (stemming of Milan) [373] pair of socks (buckram) [373] 4 pairs of gloves [373] part of a furring [375]

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May 1548 legs of hose (stemming) [378] June 1548 coat (Spanish frieze, lined with buckram) [383] cloak (Spanish frieze) [383] sewing gold for handkerchiefs [383] points [383] doublet (black satin lined with white fustian) [383] doublet (red satin stiffened with canvas) [383] stocks of hose (red satin) [383] gown (black velvet, trimmed with passementerie of half gold and half silk, with a furring of lynx? [511]) [383] coat (black velvet, trimmed with passementerie of half gold and half silk) [383] cassock (red velvet, lined with red taffeta, trimmed with golden passementerie) [383] belt (red taffeta) [383] garters (red taffeta) [383] belt (black taffeta) [383] garters (black taffeta) [383] riding cloak (French black, trimmed with black velvet) [383] hat (of bare felt, with velvet to cover it) [383, 392] doublet (black satin) [383] 24 white silk points [383] 15 ells golden passementerie [383] 72 silk points [383] July 1548 3 pairs of gloves [387] August 1548 cloak (fine frieze) [395] bonnet (fine black) [395] bonnet (fine velvet) [397] band? (taffeta of cord) [397] ½ ell white satin [397] black ribbons for his Order of the Cockle [397] September 1548 3 pairs of gloves [399] golden passementerie for his gown [399] October 1548 cloak (Rouen tawny, trimmed with red velvet) [406] 5 pairs of gloves [411]



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November 1548 shirts (heavy Holland cloth) [412] shirts (fine Holland cloth) [412] handkerchiefs (fine Holland cloth, corded with sewing gold) [412] coat (Spanish frieze, lined with buckram, with 18 buttons) [412] cloak (Spanish frieze) [412] 8 pairs of gloves [414] belt (taffeta) [414] garters (taffeta) [414] December 1548 bonnets (fine velvet, lined) [420, 428] legs of hose (stemming of Milan) [420] 36 silk points [420] sword belt [420] doublet (fine satin, lined with fustian) [420] January 1548/49 riding hose (French black, bordered with black velvet, lined with taffeta of cord and red broadcloth, sewn with silk) [428] legs for these hose (stemming) [428] February 1548/49 doublet (white satin, lined with white taffeta of cord and white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [435] hose (white velvet, lined with white taffeta of cord) [435] silk points for these hose [435] 2 pairs of legs for these hose (white stemming) [435] shoes (white velvet) [435] belt (white taffeta of the cord) [437] garters (white taffeta of the cord) [437] ribbons for his Order of the Cockle [441] March 1548/49 riding coat (fine London russet, bordered with gray velvet and gray silk, lined with black gray, the bodies lined with canvas, the sleeves and bodies of black fustian, with buttons) [449] cloak (fine London russet, bordered with gray velvet and gray silk, with buttons) [449] 8 pairs of gloves [450] belt (black taffeta) [451] garters (black taffeta) [451] April 1549 shoes (velvet) [461]

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May 1549 shirt (with sewing gold and silver and sewing silk) [470] 2 bonnets (fine velvet, lined with satin and buckram) [471] gown (armosene taffeta, bordered with taffeta of Genoa, lined with black fustian, sewn with Paris silk) [471] coat (armosene taffeta, lined with black fustian, with silk buttons, sewn with Paris silk) [471] doublet (armosene taffeta, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with silk buttons) [471] stocks of hose (fine velvet, drawn forth with taffeta, lined with red broadcloth) [471] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [471] shirts (Holland cloth) [471] cloak (frieze) [473] doublet (gray satin, lined with Bretagne canvas, stiffened with canvas, sewn with gray Paris silk, with buttons (of gray silk and gold if those in [474] are also for this doublet) [473] stocks of hose (gray velvet, drawn forth with gray taffeta, trimmed with passementerie of gold and gray silk, lined with red broadcloth) [473, 474] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [473] June 1549 coat (gray taffeta, trimmed with passementerie of gold and gray silk, with buttons of gray silk and gold, lined with black fustian, sewn with gray Paris silk) [474] gown (gray taffeta, trimmed with passementerie of gold and gray silk, lined with black fustian, the collar and sleeves with gray, sewn with gray Paris silk) [474] belt (gray taffeta) [474] garters (gray taffeta) [474] 36 gray silk points [474] doublet (white canvas) [474] socks (buckram) [474] shirts (Holland cloth with necks, ruffs, and cuffs of fine Holland cloth) [474] night kerchiefs (Holland cloth) [474] handkerchiefs (Holland cloth with sewing gold) [474] 2 pairs of shoes (gray velvet) [474] doublet (black satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with 18 buttons) [474] shoes, boots, and other necessities [481] July 1549 hat (covered with fine black velvet, lined with satin, sewn with silk) [483] shirts (Holland cloth, sewn with fine Bruges thread) [483] legs of hose (stemming of Milan) [483] hat (velvet) [483] August 1549 belt (taffeta of Genoa) [487] garters (taffeta of Genoa) [487]



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night gown (tawny satin, bordered with velvet, with buckram, with a furring of sable? [511], the back furred with rabbit and lamb [795]) [487] coat (black satin, bordered with satin, with buckram, with a furring of rabbit skins? [511]) [487] Spanish cloak (banded with satin) [487] September 1549 shoes (velvet) [492] slippers [or overshoes] (velvet) [492] coat (fine black velvet, trimmed with broad passementerie of silk and tracing silk—sewn with Paris silk, lined with black fustian, with 18 buttons) [494] hose (the thighs of fine black velvet, lined with red broadcloth, drawn forth? with taffeta) [494] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [494] bonnets (fine black velvet) [494] doublet (fine Venice satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [494] shirts (with sewing gold and silver) [494] 48 silk points [494] pair of socks (buckram) [494] October 1549 journey coat (fine crimson velvet, trimmed with passementerie of gold, lined with red taffeta of cord, with 24 gold buttons, sewn with red silk) [498, 507] coat (black stemming of Milan, lined with fustian, with pockets of buckram, with buttons) [498] cloak (stemming of Milan, the neck lined with black taffeta) [498] doublet (satin, with buttons) [498] doublet (gray taffeta armosene, lined with white fustian, with 24 gray buttons and stuffing for the sleeves, sewn with silk) [498] hose (gray stemming with gray taffeta of four threads, lined with fine English red) [498] garters (gray taffeta of four threads) [498] jack [498] 24 gloves (unclear whether this is 12 pairs or 24 pairs) [498] shirts (Holland cloth) [502] 2 bonnets (lined with buckram) [502] November 1549 sword belt (ornamented with silver) [507] riding coat (fine violet in grain, lined with fustian, bordered with fine black velvet—the border sewn on with Paris silk, with 18 buttons) [507] night gown (fine tawny damask, trimmed with tawny velvet, furred throughout except the forescyes) [507, 510]

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round caps (Holland cloth, lined with heavy Holland cloth, trimmed with traces—the traces sewn on with silk, with ribbons to hold them on) [509] belt (taffeta of four threads) [510] garters (taffeta of four threads) [510] December 1549 coat (fine black velvet, lined with black fustian, trimmed with passementerie of gold, with 24 buttons of gold thread, sewn with silk, possibly enlarged with black velvet and additional fustian [552]) [512] thighs of hose (tawny velvet, lined with tawny taffeta of cord and red broadcloth, sewn with silk) [512] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [512] doublet (tawny satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with 24 buttons, sewn with silk) [512] 24 silk points (tawny) [512] handkerchiefs (fine cambric with sewing gold) [514] socks (buckram) [514] silk ribbons for his grace’s night caps [514] January 1549/50 hose (gray stemming of Milan, lined with gray taffeta and English red) [521] garters (gray taffeta) [521] more gold for handkerchiefs [521] shoes (white velvet) [521] riding bonnet (velvet) [521] socks [524] February 1549/50 shirts (fine Holland cloth, with ruffs) [526] shirts (Holland cloth, with ruffs) [526, 529] bonnets (fine velvet lined with buckram and satin) [526] March 1549/50 night cap (embroidered with gold and black silk) [533] riding cloak (fine unpressed black) [535] light coifs (trimmed with traces of black silk) [536] belt (black taffeta of Genoa) [536] garters (black taffeta of Genoa) [536] April 1550 coat (fine black stemming, bordered with fine black satin, with 24 buttons, sewn with black silk) [542] cloak (fine black stemming, bordered with fine black satin) [542] belt (gray taffeta) [542]



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 26 9

garters (gray taffeta) [542] shoes (fine black velvet) [542] 36 points [542] hat (lined with taffeta) [542] May 1550 coat (fine Spanish leather, with 24 buttons) [552] doublet (gray satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with 24 gray buttons, sewn with gray silk) [552] mourning coat (stemming of Milan, lined with buckram, with 24 buttons, with buckram latchets to tie points to in hot weather) [553, 595] mourning cloak (stemming of Milan) [553] mourning hose (stemming of Milan, lined with taffeta of Genoa) [553] shoes (fine black) [553] mourning bonnet [553] mourning hat [553] mourning belt (stemming of Milan) [553] riding coat (fine stemming of Milan, lined with buckram, with 24 buttons, sewn with silk) [554] mourning gown (fine black) [557] hose (the thighs of gray velvet, the legs of gray stemming) [558] gray satin to enlarge a doublet (perhaps the one in [473] rather than the one from earlier this month) [558] shoes, boots, and other necessities [589] June 1550 doublet (fine black satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with 24 buttons) [592] false doublet without sleeves? (canvas) [592] nightcaps (Holland cloth) [593] July 1550 black crespe for his Order of the Cockle [597] 12 pairs of gloves [599] little bonnet (wool) [599] shoes (black velvet) [599] doublet (very fine canvas) [599] legs of hose (black stemming) [599] night kerchiefs (heavy Holland cloth) [599] August 1550 legs of hose (stemming of Milan) [607] false doublet (canvas) [607] doublet (canvas) [607]

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September 1550 foot socks (linen) [612] November 1550 coat (stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, lined with black fustian, the breasts lined with black taffeta of the cord, with buckram pockets, with 24 buttons of silk, sewn with black silk) [615] cloak (stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, sewn with black silk) [615] coat (patterned velvet, lined with fustian, the breasts lined with black taffeta of the cord, trimmed with a passementerie of silver and black silk, with 24 buttons of silver and black silk, sewn with silk) [615] riding cloak (French black, bordered with velvet—the borders sewn with silk) [616] socks (buckram) [616] riding coat (English russet, with 24 buttons) [616] riding bonnet (velvet) [616] shirts (with collars and ruffs, trimmed with white passementerie) [617] December 1550 coat (taffeta of grosgrain, lined with black fustian, the breasts lined with taffeta of the cord, trimmed with passementerie of gold, with 20 gold buttons and buckram pockets, sewn with silk) [622] doublet (taffeta of grosgrain, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, trimmed with passementerie of silk, with 24 buttons, sewn with silk) [623] hose (the thighs of black velvet, the legs of stemming of Milan) [623] shoes (fine black velvet) [623] night caps (Holland cloth, lined, trimmed with traces) [624] February 1550/51 72 silk points [632] shirts (Holland cloth, some with ruffs and collars of fine canvas) [632] 6 pairs of gloves [637] October 1551 doublet (black satin of Venice, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [648] thighs of hose (black velvet, lined with black taffeta and red English broadcloth, trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk) [648] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [648] thighs of hose (the thighs of gray velvet, lined with gray taffeta and red English broadcloth) [648] legs for these hose (gray stemming of Milan) [648] 36 points [648] belt (taffeta of four threads) [648] garters (taffeta of four threads) [648]



Ja me s H a milton: E arl of Arr an 27 1

doublet (grosgrain, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [648] combing cloths (Holland cloth) [649] night coifs (Holland cloth) [649] handkerchiefs (Holland cloth corded with gold) [649] covering for a steel helm (fine black with a tippet of taffeta of the cord) [649] 12 pairs of gloves [649] November 1551 coat (fine stemming of Milan, bordered with fine black satin—the borders sewn with Paris silk, lined with black fustian, the breasts lined with taffeta of four threads, with pockets of buckram and buttons) [657] cloak (fine stemming of Milan, bordered with fine black satin) [657] cloak (white, lined, the neck lined with black velvet, trimmed with black passementerie, with buttons, sewn with silk) [657] ribbons for his Order of the Cockle [657] December 1551 bonnet (velvet) [667] bonnet (woven silk) [667] socks (buckram) [667] January 1551/52 night coifs (fine Holland cloth, trimmed with black traces) [677] hose (the thighs velvet, the legs black stemming of Milan) [677] 2 pairs of shoes (velvet) [677] boots and shoes [677] riding bonnet (velvet) [679] February 1551/52 pair of socks (buckram) [694] March 1551/52 coat (stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, lined with black fustian, the breasts and sleeve hems lined with taffeta of Genoa, with 24 buttons, sewn with black Paris silk) [700] cloak (stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, sewn with black Paris silk) [700] hat (velvet) [700] belts and garters (taffeta of four threads) [700] April 1552 shirts (Holland cloth with ruffs and collars of fine Holland cloth) [706] cloak (unpressed black, bordered with fine black velvet, trimmed with cantailyes, with buttons, sewn with silk) [706] riding coat (London brown, bordered with tawny velvet, lined with buckram, with buttons and buckram pockets, sewn with silk) [706]

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thighs of hose (fine black velvet, trimmed with cantailyes, lined with taffeta of four threads and red broadcloth, sewn with silk) [706] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [706] 48 points [706] doublet (grosgrain, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [706] 2 bonnets (velvet, lined with satin and buckram) [706] gown (black damask, trimmed with black velvet, furred with rabbit, the borders lined with buckram) [706] shoes (fine black velvet) [706] buskins (Spanish leather) [706] May 1552 coat (velvet of double pile, bordered with the same velvet—the borders trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk, lined with razed bocasin, the breasts and cuffs lined with taffeta, with 36 buttons) [716] doublet (slashed or pinked taffeta of grosgrain, with a decorative lining of taffeta of the cord, lined with fine canvas, with 24 buttons for the breasts and sleeve hems) [716] riding cloak (taffeta of grosgrain, bordered with velvet—the borders trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk, with 6 long-shanked buttons) [716] coat (fine stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, lined with taffeta of the cord, with 24 buttons, sewn with silk) [717] cloak (fine stemming of Milan, bordered with black satin, sewn with silk) [717] coat (Spanish leather) [717] corselet to bear his points (canvas) [717] belts (taffeta) [717] garters (taffeta) [717] June 1552 gown (black damask, bordered with fine black velvet—the borders trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk and lined with buckram) [725] coat (black damask, bordered with fine black velvet—the borders trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk, lined with buckram, the breasts and sleeve hems lined with taffeta, with 24 buttons) [725] 6 pairs of gloves [728] shoes (black velvet) [728] buskins (Spanish leather—because the previous buskins were too small) [728] September 1552 thighs of hose (black velvet, trimmed with cantailyes, lined with red broadcloth and taffeta, sewn with silk) [743] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [743] hat [745]



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October 1552 shirts (Holland cloth, with ruffs and collars of fine Holland cloth, sewn with fine skein thread) [750] handkerchiefs [751] shoes (black velvet) [751] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [751] socks (buckram) [751] belt (taffeta of four threads) [753] garters (taffeta of four threads) [753] November 1552 coat (stemming of Milan, lined with fustian, the borders lined with satin and sewn with silk, the breasts lined with taffeta of four threads, with 24 buttons) [756] cloak (stemming of Milan, the borders lined with satin and sewn with silk) [756] bonnets (fine black velvet, lined with buckram and black satin) [756] shoes, boots, and slippers [or overshoes] [762] December 1552 doublet (taffeta of grosgrain, lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas, with 24 buttons) [770] thighs of hose (fine black velvet and black taffeta of four threads, lined with red broadcloth, trimmed with cantailyes, sewn with silk) [770] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [770] belt (taffeta of four threads) [770] garters (taffeta of four threads) [770] 3 pairs of perfumed gloves [774] 2 pairs of dog leather gloves lined with kidskin [774] March 1552/53 riding coat (English cloth of rich color, bordered with black velvet—the borders trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk, lined with buckram, with 24 buttons) [794] riding cloak (unpressed black of the seal of Rouen, bordered with black velvet—the borders sewn on with silk) [794] night gown (tawny damask, trimmed with tawny velvet, furred with marten, the furring backed with buckram and sewn with silk, the neck altered in September 1553 [845]) [795] coat (serge of Florence, bordered with black satin, lined with black fustian, the breasts lined with taffeta, with buckram pockets, with 24 buttons on the coat and 24 in the pockets, sewn with silk) [796] cloak (serge of Florence, bordered with black satin, sewn with silk) [796] doublet (taffeta grosgrain, lined with linen? cloth, stiffened with fine canvas, with buttons, the buttonholes sewn with silk) [797] stocks of hose (fine black velvet, lined with taffeta and broad red, sewn with silk) [797] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [797]

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Spanish felt hat (lined with armosene taffeta, trimmed with silk passementerie, sewn with silk) [797] belt (taffeta of four threads) [799] garters (taffeta of four threads) [799] pair of socks (buckram) [799] April 1553 2 bonnets (black velvet, lined with black satin and buckram) [808] gown (grosgrain, bordered with black velvet—trimmed with cantailyes sewn on with silk, the shoulders stuffed with buckram) [808] coat (grosgrain, bordered with black velvet—trimmed with cantailyes sewn on with silk, lined with razed bombazine, with 36 buttons) [808] May 1553 doublet (slashed or pinked taffeta of grosgrain, with a decorative lining of taffeta of Genoa, stiffened with canvas, lined with bocasin, with 24 buttons) [814] July 1553 shirts (Holland cloth, with ruffs and collars of fine Holland cloth, sewn with fine English thread) [821] night coifs (fine Holland cloth, lined with heavy Holland cloth and trimmed with black traces sewn on with black silk) [821] doublet (fine canvas) [823] August 1553 coat (serge of Florence, lined with buckram, the breasts and sleeve hems lined with taffeta of Genoa, the borders lined with black satin and sewn with black silk, with 36 buttons) [825] cloak (serge of Florence) [825] stocks of hose (fine black velvet and taffeta of Genoa, lined with red broadcloth) [825] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [825] doublet (grosgrain, lined with bocasin, stiffened with canvas, with 24 buttons) [825] gown (tawny grosgrain, bordered with tawny velvet—the borders lined with buckram and trimmed with cantailyes and sewn with silk) [826] coat (tawny grosgrain, lined with razed bombazine, the breasts and sleeve hems lined with taffeta of four threads, bordered with tawny velvet, with 24 buttons and buckram pockets) [826] doublet (tawny satin, lined with fine linen? cloth, stiffened with canvas, with 24 buttons) [826] stocks of hose (fine tawny velvet and taffeta of four threads, lined with red broadcloth, the buttonholes and gussets and eyelets sewn with tawny silk) [826] legs for these hose (stemming of Milan) [826] bonnets (fine velvet, lined with satin, stuffed with buckram) [826]



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September 1553 gown (tawny grosgrain, trimmed with fine tawny velvet, the borders lined with buckram, furred with rabbit in the forequarters and black fur in the back) [This seems to be a different gown, despite the similarities with the one from the previous month.] [840] false doublet (fine canvas) [845] boots and shoes [851] pair of socks (buckram) [852]

Summary by Category Gowns cap of state and kirtle for parliament [19] mourning gowns and hood [306, 557] taffeta gowns [210, 471, 474] taffeta of grosgrain gowns [808, 826, 840] velvet gowns [383] damask gowns [706, 725] Night Gowns damask night gowns [55, 507/510, 795/845] satin night gown [487/511/795] Coats riding coats [281, 314, 350, 449, 507, 554, 616, 706, 794] journey coats [69, 498/507] mourning coats [306, 553/595] leather coats [27, 302, 552, 717] frieze coats [48, 69, 117, 194, 206, 221/228, 278/279, 314, 331, 383, 412] stemming coats [498, 542, 615, 657, 700, 717, 756] serge coats [796, 825] velvet coats [210, 305, 340, 346, 383, 494, 512/552?, 615, 716] taffeta coats [210, 350, 471, 474, 622] taffeta of grosgrain coats [808, 826] other coats [117, 170, 205, 219, 248, 487/511?, 725] Cloaks Spanish cloaks [2, 306, 487] riding cloaks [29/222, 383, 535, 616, 716, 794] mourning cloak [553] frieze cloaks [48, 69, 117, 146, 185, 194, 206, 221, 234, 278, 293, 314, 331, 383, 395, 412, 473] stemming cloaks [498, 542, 615, 657, 700, 717, 756] serge cloaks [796, 825] russet cloaks [117, 449] other cloaks [282, 310, 406, 657, 706]

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Cassocks velvet cassocks [117, 383] Doublets satin doublets [194, 279, 297, 314, 334, 354, 373, 383, 420, 435, 473/558?, 474, 494, 498, 512, 552/558?, 592, 648, 826] taffeta doublets [471, 498] taffeta of grosgrain doublets [623, 648, 706, 716, 770, 797, 814, 825] canvas doublets [354, 474, 592, 599, 607, 823, 845] other doublets [146, 170, 205, 210] Jacks and Other Armor125 jacks [22, 65, 75, 127, 195, 321/328, 498] covering for a jack (lined) [351] harness doublet (canvas) [69] covering for a steel helm [79, 89, 141, 181, 249, 649] leather gloves with plate armor [127] [also listed under Gloves] sleeves of plate [156] arm guards [321] apron of plate [321/338] Hose mourning hose [553] riding hose [428] stemming hose126 [58, 69, 146, 170, 498, 521] velvet hose [75, 146, 194, 435] black and Paris black hose [117, 139, 335] velvet thighs/stocks of hose [302, 373, 471, 473/474, 494, 512, 558, 623, 648, 677, 706, 743, 770, 797, 825, 826] Paris black thighs of hose [217, 304, 310, 350, 373] stemming legs of hose [48, 87, 195, 201, 210, 217, 302, 304, 350, 373, 378, 420, 428, 435, 471, 473, 483, 494, 512, 558, 599, 607, 623, 648, 677, 706, 743, 770, 797, 825, 826] other hose and hose parts [87, 194, 328, 383] Shirts shirts [75, 97, 117, 165, 245, 246, 247, 470, 494, 617] Holland cloth shirts [63, 220, 310, 351, 412, 471, 474, 483, 502, 526, 529, 632, 706, 750, 821] Bonnets mourning bonnets [306, 553] 125

Although this list includes all mentions of jacks in the regency Accounts, it contains only a representative sample of coverings for helms (“steel bonnets”). 126 It is not clear whether “hose” and “stocks/thighs of hose” were references to the same garment.



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riding bonnets [521, 616, 679] bonnets [201, 295, 310, 331, 341, 502] black bonnets127 [181, 249, 395] velvet bonnets [210, 252, 397, 420, 428, 471, 494, 526, 667, 706, 756, 808, 826] other bonnets [331, 599, 667] Hats mourning hat [553] velvet hats [295, 383, 392, 483, 700] other hats [210, 542, 745, 797] Other Headwear Holland cloth night kerchiefs [65, 117, 201, 220, 351, 474, 599] night caps [514, 533, 593, 624] night coifs [649, 677, 821] other caps and coifs [509, 536] Tippets taffeta of cord tippets [63, 87, 89, 249] tippet for a bonnet [109] tippets for steel helms (“bonnets”) [117, 139, 154, 181, 206, 304] Socks buckram socks [50, 98, 194, 205, 304, 323, 346, 373, 474, 494, 514, 616, 667, 694, 751, 799, 852] other socks [55, 524, 612] Footwear velvet shoes [21, 40, 50, 57, 80, 103, 127, 170, 201, 206, 241, 249, 283, 297, 323, 357, 435, 461, 474, 492, 521, 542, 599, 623, 677, 706, 728, 751] velvet slippers (or overshoes) [11, 80, 127, 165, 210, 333, 492, 751] buskins [706, 728] “boots, shoes, and other necessities”128 [156, 175, 214, 481, 589, 677, 762, 851] other footwear [11, 165, 297, 553] Gloves leather gloves with plate armor [127] [also listed under Jacks and other armor] pairs of gloves [98, 165, 204, 227, 316, 333, 338, 341, 354, 355, 373, 387, 399, 411, 414, 450, 498, 599, 637, 649, 728, 774]

127

In many cases, it is unclear whether “black” in this context is a color name or a fabric name. This category includes the bulk bills written by cordwainers, which unfortunately did not itemize the footwear.

128

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Belts and Garters mourning belt [553] sword belts [420, 507] taffeta of Genoa belts [21, 65, 75, 139, 165, 210, 241, 487, 536] taffeta of cord belts [63, 89, 165, 181, 195, 437] taffeta of four threads belts [146, 295, 510, 648, 700, 753, 770, 799] taffeta belts [217, 310, 314, 338, 383, 414, 451, 474, 542, 717] taffeta of Genoa garters [21, 75, 210, 241, 487, 536] taffeta of cord garters [27, 63, 87, 89, 98, 109, 139, 195, 201, 302, 341, 437] taffeta of four threads garters [295, 498, 510, 648, 700, 753, 770, 799] taffeta garters [40, 146, 146, 217, 310, 314, 338, 383, 414, 451, 474, 521, 542, 717] Points silk points for jack apron and sleeves [338] [also listed under Jacks and other armor] silk points [98, 129, 165, 201, 218, 229, 316, 322, 331, 383, 420, 435, 474, 494, 512, 632] points [146, 185, 333, 338, 351, 383, 542, 648, 706] Other Accessories cambric handkerchiefs [27, 220, 514/521] Holland cloth handkerchiefs [310, 412, 474, 649] handkerchiefs [129, 165, 316, 357, 751] combing kerchiefs and cloths [220, 233, 649] ribbons and chains for his Order of the Cockle [146, 331, 341, 397, 441, 597, 657] other accessories [346, 397, 717] Fabric and Notions fabrics [20, 27, 397] gold and silver thread [58, 241, 245, 330, 383, 521] silk thread [341] ribbons and trim [310, 329, 383] part of a furring [375]

Chapter 5

Men and Boys of the Court

T

he largest group of recipients in the regency Accounts was made up of men and boys of good family who were attached to the court in some way. Those receiving the most clothes and accessories were of course members of Arran’s immediate family, but he also granted items to more distant relations and political or personal associates. To complicate matters, relatives of the Regent and other well-born people often served as household staff or in other positions in the government that Arran directly supervised and might receive clothing as a perquisite. Those serving the court and the Regent may be found in Chapter 7, while those serving others are listed in Chapter 8. Aside from Arran himself, the men and boys of the court had the most formal and expensive wardrobes of any males in the regency Accounts. They were more likely to have gowns rather than just coats and cloaks, and the quality of materials they wore was on average quite good, with a relatively high percentage of velvets and other silks as well as the more expensive wools. Some had passementerie braid or strips of velvet to trim their clothes. They were also the most likely to receive a full outfit of gown, coat, doublet, and hose, but items such as shirts, gloves, and shoes were usually reserved for close family members. Men and boys of the court were also most likely to have wedding clothing provided for them. Rather than being a specific type of formal wear, wedding clothes for men were simply the best quality that could be purchased. These would then be added to the wardrobe and worn for other occasions in the future. In contrast, garments for mourning were spread across the social spectrum. Among adult men in this category, clothing of which the color was specified was overwhelmingly black with some white and gray and a few instances of tawny, purple, and red. Boys had a larger percentage of the lighter and brighter colors in the men’s range, with occasional touches of blue, yellow, and green in addition. Doublets and hose were more likely to be made in colors other than black, although coats and gowns were sometimes lighter. Boys of the court sometimes had clothing cut down from adult pieces, but there is little evidence of items being expanded to accommodate growth1 or mended after long use among   1

The Regent did, however have some pieces of the late King James V’s wardrobe altered to fit him [58].

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boys or men of the court. However, several instances of this latter economy occur in the regency Accounts for women, even among those of the highest ranks. The sections below are organized with reference to the relationship between recipients and the Regent. They are separated into categories such as “Half-brothers,” “Sons,” “Nephews,” and so on, proceeding outward from the closest relationships to the most distant.

H A LF-BROTHE R S The Regent’s only legitimate full brother is not listed in the regency Accounts. All of those listed below are illegitimate half-brothers.

James Hamilton of Sprouston The regent had two living half-brothers named James at the time of these Accounts: James Hamilton of Sprouston and James Hamilton of Kinneil, Bishop of Argyll and Lismore. The items under this heading are those that do not seem to be for the latter brother (who is listed below under the next heading).2 The clothing granted James Hamilton of Sprouston was fairly fine, including expensive wools, satin and velvet doublets, hose with taffeta pullings-out, and two sets of cloaks and coats with a large amount of silk passementerie to decorate them. One had twenty-six ells just for the cloak and the other thirty-two to be split between cloak and coat. Garments and boots for riding plus a jack and helm imply that he was expected to fight alongside his half-brother in the ongoing conflict with England. December 1543

  2

v? elnis? &? ane half 3 maister James hammiltoun brother to his grace to be him ane cote and clok price of þe elne xl s Summa—xj li

5½? ells? master James Hamilton, brother to his grace, to be a coat and cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £11.

Item xxvj elnis pasmentis sylk to þe samyn cloke price of þe elne ij s Summa—lij s

Item, 26 ells of silk passementerie for the same cloak, price of each ell 2s; total: 52s.

Item for half ane vnce of blak sylk to sew on þe saidis pasmentis—iiij s

Item, for half an ounce of black silk to sew on the said passementerie, 4s.

James Hamilton of Sprouston acquired St. John’s Chapel by marriage in 1551,which was after his final grant of clothing in the regency Accounts. Paul, Peerage, 4:363.   3 This portion of the manuscript is considerably damaged, but only the beginning of this line item is illegible. Paul does not attempt transcription of the first three line items in this set.



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Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command coft to þe said maister James xj quarteris blak welwot to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne iiij li Summa—xj li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought for the said Master James 2¾ ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £4; total: £11.

Item for tua elnis of reid to lyne þe said doublat price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, for 2 ells of red to line the same doublet, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item ane elne of vterfyne to be him ane pair of hois pryce xxxiiij s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price 34s.

Item x quarteris blak taffate to draw furt þe said hois pryce of þe elne xviij s Summa— xlv s

Item, 2½ ells of black taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 18s; total: 45s.

Item for ane blak bonet to him—xxviij s

Item, for a black bonnet for him, 28s.

Item foure elnis of blak gray to lyne his said cote of freis price of þe elne iij s Summa— xij s [68]

Item, four ells of black gray to line his said coat of frieze, price of each ell 3s; total: 12s.

March 1543/44

  4

Item þe xix day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis brother James hammiltoun vj elnis freis to be him ane cote and ane cloke pryce of þe elne xxviij s Summa—viij li viij s

Item, the 19th day of March by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s brother, James Hamilton, 6 ells of frieze to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 28s; total: £8 8s.

Item xxxij elnis pasmentis sylk to þe said cote and cloke pryce of þe elne ij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 32 ells of silk passementerie for the said coat and cloak, price of each ell 2s; total: £3 4s.

Item thre elnis and ane quarter blak gray to lyne þis cote pryce of þe elne xxxij d Summa— viij s vij d

Item, 3¼ ells of black gray to line this coat, price of each ell 32d; total: 8s 7d.4

Item thre quarteris bukram to þe bodyis of the said cote price thairof—ij s iij d

Item, ¾ of an ell of buckram to be bodies of the said coat, price thereof 2s 3d.

Item for ane vnce of silk to sew þe saiddis pasmentis vpone þe said cloke and cote price—viij s

Item, for an ounce of silk to sew the said passementerie upon the said cloak and coat, price 8s.

The total should be 8s 8d.

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Item tua elnis thre quarteris blak sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—iiij li viij s

Item, 2¾ ells of black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £4 8s.

Item for stenting and lynnyng to þe said doublat—viij s

Item, for stiffening and lining for the said doublet, 8s.

Item fyve quarteris vterris fyne to be him ane pair of hois wt tua pair of schankis price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of utterfine to be a pair of hose with two pairs of legs for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item half ane elne of scottis blak to lyne þe said hois price thairof—viij s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line the said hose, price thereof 8s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xviij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 18s.

Item vij quarteris quhite to be him ane pair of hois price thairof—x s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of white to be a pair of hose for him, price thereof 10s 6d.

Item half ane elne of quhite to lyne þe foresaid quhite hois price—ij s

Item, ½ ell of white to line the aforesaid hose, price 2s.

Item for v quarteris canves to be him ane doublat price—iij s viij d

Item, for 1¼ ells of canvas to be a doublet for him, price 3s 8d.

Item v quarteris quhite to lyne þe samyn doublat price—ij s vj d

Item, for 1¼ ells of white to line the same doublet, price 2s 6d.

Item tua elnis and ane half pyle gray to be him ane ryding cloke price of þe elne xiij s Summa—xxxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of pile gray, to be a riding cloak for him, price of each ell 13s; total: 32s 6d.

Item tua skynnis to be him ane cote price þairof—xxij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price thereof 22s.

Item ane stele bonet wt covering and typpat price—xiiij s vj d

Item, a steel helm with covering and tippet, price 14s 6d.

…

…

Item for ane Jak to him price—xliiij s vj d

Item, for a jack for him, price 44s 6d.

Item for ane pair of butis and ane pair of schone to him—xiij s vj d

Item, for a pair of boots and a pair of shoes for him, 13s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to be him sockis price—ij s iiij d

Item, an ell of canvas to be socks for him, price 2s 4d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 2 83

…

…

Item for thre sarkis to him—xxxiij s vj d

Item, for three shirts for him, 33s 6d.

Item for twa dosoun of silkin pointtis—iij s

Item, for 24 silk points, 3s.

…

…

Item v quarteris canves to be ane vallat to keip his sarkis price—ij s j d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to be a wallet to keep his shirts, price 2s 1d.

Item for making of þir foresaid clathis—xx s [79]

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, 20s.

January 1545/46

  5

Item xxvjto Jarij be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis brother James hammiltoun tua elnis ane half & a quarter of welwot to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—ix li xij s [vj d]5

Item, January 26th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s brother James Hamilton, 2¾ ells of velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £9 12s [6d.]

Item vj quarteris vterrisfyne to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—lj s

Item, 1½ ells of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 34s; total: 51s.

Item tua elnis blak taffate to draw furth þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa —xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of black taffeta to draw forth the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item tua elnis freis to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item tua elnis & ane half freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x[s]

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10[s.]

Item for ane bonet to him—xxviij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 28s.

Item for lynnyng stenting to þe said doublat & Lynnyng to þe said cote and hois And for making of þe saidis clathis—xxxvj s [184]

Item, for lining and stiffening for the said doublet and lining for the said coat and hose and for making of the said clothes, 36s.

The right-hand edge of this page is missing. Paul fills in the extrapolated items in brackets.

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April 1549 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces brother James hammiltoun to be him ane cote and ane cloke v elnis and thre quartaris fyne blak price of þe elne xl s Summa xj li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s brother, James Hamilton, to be a coat and a cloak for him, 5¾ ells of fine black, price of each ell 40s; total: £11 10s.

Item tua elnis and ane half sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa iiij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £4 15s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng of myllane to be him hois—xlv s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for him, 45s.

Item ane fyne blak bonet—xxvj s viij d

Item, a fine black bonnet, 26s 8d.

Item tua elnis taffate to his hois—xxx s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for his hose, 30s.

Item ane elne of welwote to þis cote—iij li xij s [463]

Item, an ell of velvet for this coat, £3 12s.

James Hamilton of Kinneil, Bishop of Argyll and Lismore One of the many Jameses appearing in these Accounts, this was the Regent’s youngest brother. He had several other ecclesiastical appointments as well as those listed above,6 but the clothing provided for him by the treasury seems entirely secular in nature. Record 145 from the end of May 1545 is for a Jacob Hamilton, but Arran did not have any known brothers named Jacob. Although the clerks of the Accounts did not usually use Latin in records regarding clothing, it could be that Jacob was intended to be a Latin rendering of James. As James Hamilton of Kinneil had just arrived at court and was granted clothing May 12, 1545, it seems likely that Jacob was the same person. The clothing he received was relatively unremarkable, especially compared to his elder brother above. Only a few garments were made of or contained silk, although one cloak was decorated with passementerie. However, he was given items for both riding and war, suggesting that he too was expected to take to the battlefield against the English.

  6

George Hamilton, A History of the House of Hamilton (Edinburgh: J. Skinner, 1933), 242.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 2 8 5

May 1545

  7

Item þe xij day of maii be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis ȝongest brother James hammiltoun at his coming to þe court tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iiij li v s

Item, the 12th day of May, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s youngest brother, James Hamilton, at his coming to the court, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £4 5s.

7

Item half ane elne of scottis blak to lyne þir hois—viij s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line these hose, 8s.

Item for tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxxij s

Item, for 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ix elnis of pasmentis to his cloke price—xviij s

Item, 9 ells of passementerie for his cloak, price 18s.

Item for tua skynnis to be him ane cott— xxviij s

Item, for two skins to be a coat for him, 28s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 22s.

Item half ane elne of taffate of cord to be him gartanis price—xj s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta of cord to be garters for him, price 11s.

Item half ane elne of taffate of foure threiddis to be him ane belt price—viij s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta of four threads to be a belt for him, price 8s.

Item xij elnis lynnyng claith to be him sarkis price of þe elne ij s vj d Summa—xxx s

Item, 12 ells of linen cloth to be shirts for him, price of each ell 2s 6d; total: 30s.

Item for tua dosoun of sylkin pointtis to his clathis—iiij s

Item, for 24 silk points for his clothes, 4s.

Item for ane pair of quhit hois to him—xv s

Item, for a pair of white hose for him, 15s.

Item for ane doubillat of canves to him wt þe lynnyng—vij s

Item, for a doublet of canvas for him, with the lining, 7s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. There is at least one illegible line item in the damaged portion. Paul’s transcription does not include the two line items that follow the hiatus.

2 8 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua elnis and ane half pyle gray to be him ane ryding cote price of þe elne xvj s vj d Summa—xlij s

Item, 2½ ells of pile gray to be a riding coat for him, price of each ell 16s 6d; total: 42s8

Item for making lynnyng and stenting of þe foresaid clathis—xxxiiij s ij d

Item, for making, lining, and stiffening of the aforesaid clothes, 34s 2d.

Item for ane Jak to him—xxx s

Item, for a jack for him, 30s.

Item for buttis spurris and sockis—xix s

Item, for boots, spurs, and socks, 19s.

Item for ane steill bonet to him wt þe covering—xxiiij s [141]

Item, for a steel helm with the covering for him, 24s.

Item þe last day of maii be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis brother Jacob hammiltoun xj quarteris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne vj s iiij d Summa xvij s v d

Item, the last day of May, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s brother, Jacob Hamilton, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 6s 4d; total: 17s 5d.

Item ane elne and ane half of uterfyne to be schankis? of? hois? price þairof—xxxvij s

Item, 1½ ells of utterfine to be legs? of? hose?, price thereof, 37s.

Item half? ane? elne? and?9 half quarter of Scottis blak to lyne þe samyn—ix s

Item, ⅝? ell of Scottish black to line the same, 9s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xviij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 18s.

Item for lynnyng and stenting to þe doublat and making of þe samyn and þe said hois—xiij s [145]

Item, for lining and stiffening for the doublet and making of the same and the said hose, 13s.

August 1545 Item þe samyn day for sarkis and ane pair of buttis to his gracis ȝoungast broder—xliiij s [164]

  8

Item, the same day, for shirts and a pair of boots for his grace’s youngest brother, 44s.

The total should be 41s 3d. This portion of the manuscript is damaged, but no line items are missing. This transcription differs from Paul’s.

  9



Men and B oys of the Co urt 2 87

June 1547 Item be my lord gouernoures spetiall command to his graces ȝoungest broder James hammyltoun qlk wes send to linly tqw to him wt maister Jhonn hamtoun of mylburne ane elne blak to be him hois pce—xxxiiijs

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s youngest brother, James Hamilton, which was sent to Linlithgow to him with Master John Hamilton of Millburn, an ell of black to be hose for him, price 34s.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublet þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item tua skynnes to be him ane coit—xxx s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, 30s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [313]

Item, a bonnet for him, 24s.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to James hammiltoun of kynneill his graces brother xj quartaris fyne blak sating to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for James Hamilton of Kinneil, his grace’s brother, 2¾ ells of fine black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak to be him stokes of hois pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item an elne of taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, an ell of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

Item for lyning to þir hois and doublat— xxxvj s ix d

Item, for lining for these hose and doublet, 36s 9d.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote price of þe pece xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item for schankes to his said hois—xx s j d ob

Item, for legs for his said hose, 20s 1½d.

Item for making of þir claythis—xv s [361]

Item, for making of these clothes, 15s.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

John Hamilton of Samuelston This John was also sometimes designated “of Clydesdale.”10 Although he was granted only a single outfit, it was quite fine. His coat and cloak were of the best quality wool, bordered with satin and worn with a satin doublet. Linings, stiffenings, and buttons were all provided. The stemming for his hose was on the upper end of the scale, and his hose had silk lining and trimming. Unlike his brothers above, he received a velvet bonnet rather than a cloth one. November 1551

 10

Item vijo nouembris be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiale command to his grace bruþir Johnne hammyltoun of samelstoun five elnis fyne blak of þe seile of Rowane tobe hyme ane cloik and ane coite price of þe elne iij li v s Summa—xvj li v s

Item, November 7th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s brother, John Hamilton of Samuelston, 5 ells of fine black of the seal of Rouen to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell £3 5s; total: £16 5s.

Item vij quarteris blak satin to bordour þis cloke and coit price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, 1¾ ells of black satin to border this cloak and coat, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 3s.

Item twa elnis bukcrame to lyne þis coite price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe samyn price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item ane vnce and ane half vnce paris silk to þe samyn price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ounces of Paris silk for the same, price of each ounce 8s; total: 12s.

Item tobe hym ane dowblett xj quarteris blak satin price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2¾ ells of black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis of þe four threiddis to lyne and nerft his hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of four threads to line and trim his hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item for caddes and stenting canves to his dowblet—v s iiij d

Item, for padding and stiffening canvas for his doublet, 5s 4d.

Hamilton, History, 762–63.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 2 8 9

Item xviij buttonis to þe samin price þair­of—iij s

Item, 18 buttons for the same, price thereof 3s.

Item ane welwett bonett price þairof— xxxvj s

Item, a velvet bonnet, price thereof 36s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng of myllane tobe hyme ane pair of hois price þairof—xxxviij s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for him, price thereof 38s.

Item for clayt to lyne þe samyn—vj s

Item, for cloth to line the same, 6s.

Item for making of þis cloik coit dowblett and hois—xxiij s [661]

Item, for making of this cloak, coat, doublet, and hose, 23s.

Master John Hamilton (Lord Treasurer) The Regent had only two brothers named John, and since the other is identified specifically as “of Samuelston,” this John is probably the Abbot of Paisley (from 1525), Bishop of Dunkeld (1544), Archbishop of St. Andrews (from 1549), and Lord Treasurer from 1543/44?–54.11 It was he whose clerks kept these Accounts, though he himself is for the most part absent from them. The mourning clothes listed first below were ordered in honor of the death of King James V. Paul transcribed the fabric of these mourning clothes as “buge.” Usually buge or budge would be lambskin, but since this material was measured in ells rather than by the piece, it was almost certainly a textile. It could have been boige, also called beige, which was a lowquality French textile,12 but it would be curious for a brother of the Regent, not to mention his Lord Treasurer, to be assigned a humble type of cloth. In addition, the relatively high price of 40s per ell is unlikely for boige but within the range for French black, which was used for other mourning clothes in the regency Accounts. The manuscript is badly degraded in this section, so although the fabric name is short and starts with b, it is impossible to be definitive. Paul’s transcription “clok of servis” [cloak of service] is equally suspect, but the manuscript is so damaged there that any guess as to the actual words would be purely speculative. In contrast, the latter section containing the gown of “the clerk’s fashion” is quite clear. This gown of tawny damask and its coordinating coat and doublet of tawny velvet were very expensive. Since the Lord Treasurer could be considered the Head Clerk, this gown would have been appropriate. Although he had a position in the church, this gown of the clerk’s fashion may have been academic dress. The church and the colleges were very closely linked, and dignitaries in one were often also officeholders in the other. In 1554, as Archbishop, John Hamilton wrote a set of regulations for St. Mary’s College indicating that certain members of the administration should wear hoods such as were customarily used in Paris.13  11

Ibid., 150–52. Françoise Pipponier, “Cloth Merchants’ Inventories in Dijon in the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries,” in Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe, ed. N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting, Pasold Studies in Textile History 2 (London: Heinemann, 1983), 241–43.  13 Jonathan C. Cooper, “Academical Dress in Late Medieval and Renaissance Scotland,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 12 (2016), 113–14.  12

29 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

A funeral effigy of ca. 1544 may show Scottish academic dress, which may shed light on the gown of the clerk’s fashion. Alexander Young wears a knee-length loose gown with very wide sleeves over a loose floor-length garment (probably an overtunic, which was a borrowing from religious dress).14 The intention seems to have been that John Hamilton’s gown of the clerk’s fashion would be worn with a purely secular coat and doublet, but perhaps it was meant as a hybrid outfit showing both his academic and his government positions. January 1542/43

 14

Item deliuerit to alexr foster to be ane dwle gowne coit and huid to maistyr Johnne hammiltoun bruþir to my lord gouernor x elnis frenche?15 blak? price of the elne xl s, Summa—xx li

Item, delivered to Alexander Foster to be a mourning gown, coat, and hood for Master John Hamilton, brother to my lord governor, 10 ells of French black?, price of each ell 40s; total: £20.

Item deliuerit to him to be ane clok? of? servis? four elnis ½ elne vterisfyne,16 price of the elne xxviij s Summa—vj li ix s vj d

Item, delivered to him to be a cloak of service?, 4½ ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £6 9s 6d.17

Item deliuerit to be him twa pair of hois twa elnis quarter elne vterisfyne, price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, delivered to be two pairs of hose for him, 2¼ ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £3 3s.

Item deliuerit to him to draw þe ane pair of his hois twa elnis ½ elne blak teffites of Janis, price of the elne xiiij s Summa—xxxv s/

Item, delivered to him to draw [forth] the one pair of his hose, 2½ ells of black taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 14s; total: 35s.

Item deliuerit to him to be his dowblet thre elnis blak fustiane, price of the elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, delivered to him to be his doublet, 3 ells of black fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

Item deliuerit to pasment his cloke and dowblet vj unc blak pasmentis of silk, price þairof—xliiij s

Item, delivered to trim his cloak and doublet, 6 ounces of black passementerie of silk, price thereof 44s.

Item deliuerit to him to be ane gowne of þe clarkis fassoune xv elnis tanny dames, price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxviij li x s

Item, delivered to him to be a gown of the clerk’s fashion, 15 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £28 10s.

Ibid., 118. This portion of the manuscript is damaged, but no line items are missing.  16 This is one of the few places in these Accounts where the clerk included commas and slashes as punctuation.  17 The total should be £6 6s.  15



Men and B oys of the Co urt 29 1

Item deliuerit to be him ane coit and dowblet x elnis ½ quarter tanny veluet, price of þe elne iij li v s Summa—xxxij li xviij s x d obolus [4]

Item, delivered to be a coat and doublet for him, 10⅛ ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 5s; total: £32 18s 10½d.18

BROT HE R S -IN-L AW Alexander Cunningham, Master of Glencairn At the time this grant was made, Cunningham was actually the Regent’s former brother-inlaw, as he was divorced from Arran’s half-sister Jean (also called Janet) before July 11, 1545.19 Although he only received three items of clothing, they were of high quality, and as might be expected, he was of the rank to wear gowns. June 1552 Item primo Junij be my lord gouernouris speciale command deliuerit to þe maister of glencarne tobe hyme ane coit thre elnis and ane half blak welwett price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xiij li ij s vj d

Item, June 1st, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to the Master of Glencairn to be a coat for him, 3½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £13 2s 6d.

Item xj elnis thre quarteris blak satin to be hyme ane gowne and ane dowblett price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxiij li x s [729]

Item, 11¾ ells of black satin to be a gown and a doublet for him, price of each ell, 40s; total: £23 10s.

William Stewart This could be the husband of the Regent’s half-sister Janet.20 This grant comes in the midst of a long sequence of mourning clothing given to the Regent’s household on the occasion of the death of Marie of Guise’s father, so it is likely that this clothing is part of the wholesale appearance of grief. If William Stewart was not a family member, he was attached to the Regent’s household in some other way.

 18

The total should be £32 18s 1½d. Hamilton, History, p. 13.  20 Ibid., 14. She was also known as Jean.  19

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May 1550 Item to be ane cloik to Williame stewart thre elnis half ane elne pareis blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—viij li xij d

Item, to be a cloak for William Stewart, 3½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 46s; total: £8 0s 12d.

Item to be him ane cote vij quartaris and half ane quartar of þe samyn blak price þairof—iiij li vj s iij d

Item, to be a coat for him, 1⅞ ells of the same black, price thereof £4 6s 3d.

Item to be ane pair of theis of hois to him thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxviij s

Item, to be a pair of thighs of hose for him, ⅞ ell of unpressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: 38s.21

Item half ane elne of stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois—xxij s

Item, ½ ell of stemming to be legs for these hose, 22s.

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s [578]

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

S ONS James Hamilton, Master of Arran The eldest son, James, was considered throughout this portion of the Accounts to be his father’s heir (though he was later removed from the title due to insanity) and was known as the Master of Arran or the Master of Hamilton. His date of birth is in some dispute; some claim 153222 and others 1537.23 In either case, he was a child at the beginning of the regency. From late 1544 to 1547 he was held hostage in St. Andrews Castle during the political battle between his father and Cardinal Beaton and continued in captivity there once Beaton was murdered and the castle taken by pro-English protestants.24 His father attempted to use him to political advantage several times, proposing a betrothal to Mary Stewart (more than once) to keep the rule of Scotland within the family,25 entertaining a proposal from Henry VIII to marry him to Princess Elizabeth as a possibility for ending hostilities,26 and agreeing to marry him to the eldest daughter of the Duke of Montpensier in France once they both  21

The total should be 36s 9d. William K. Boyd, ed. Calendar of the State Papers Relating to Scotland and Mary, Queen of Scots, 1547–1603, vol. 10 (Edinburgh: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1936), 31.  23 Bain, Calendar, 362; Hamilton, History, 16; and Amy Blakeway, “The Attempted Divorce of James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, Governor of Scotland,” Innes Review 61, no. 1 (2010): 6.  24 Franklin, Scottish Regency, 150. The conflict became international, as the French came to help the Regent besiege the castle, and the English sent forces to relieve it. See Bain, Calendar, 13, for instructions to the English commander who was sent to relieve the castle to take the Regent’s son if possible.  25 Franklin, Scottish Regency, 52, and Merriman, Rough Wooings, 161–62.  26 Franklin, Scottish Regency, 52.  22



Men and B oys of the Co urt 293

came of age as part of a deal to guarantee French assistance against the English.27 In the summer of 1548 he traveled to France as part of the entourage of Mary Stewart, at which point his entries in the Scottish Accounts cease. By October he had been given an income and command of a small company of lancers, which makes a birth date of 1532 more likely unless the post was entirely ceremonial.28 He spent the next decade and more soldiering in France but in 1562 was declared insane and spent the rest of his life in confinement.29 The amount of fabric used for his clothes even in the earliest entries and their types and decoration also argue for 1532 as his birth year, which would have made him ten or eleven years old at the beginning of the regency. He was in a period of transition between the breeches of a boy and the hose of a man, receiving both during the first year and a half but only one pair of breeches after December 1544. Amongst the first items given to him were some fairly splendid ones—a black velvet gown and a purple velvet coat with gold trim—and these were interspersed with more practical pieces such as night gowns to keep him warm, several items cut down from old clothes of his father’s, and a few pieces made from new cloth. By the end of the year he had a fair wardrobe, which was acknowledged with the addition of a coffer to store his clothing. The riding coat made for him in October 1544 so that he could travel to St. Andrew’s as a pledge to ensure the detente between his father and Cardinal Beaton is the first in a series of clothes sent to him during his stay there. All things were provided in the Accounts, including items like shirts and shoes that under regular circumstances sometimes disappeared into block payments. Grants of clothing continued throughout his captivity, no doubt in part to keep up with the growing boy, but there is no sense that his state should be lessened because he was not visible in society. The clothes were of good-quality fabrics, some in silk, with formal, furred gowns as well as doublets and coats. The last three sets of items [354, 356, and 378] were probably granted in preparation for his departure to France. Although he had a fairly substantial wardrobe already, he was given a full range of items, including some made from fabric from the Regent’s personal store. In his wardrobe as a whole, few colors are listed besides black. Summaries of James’ wardrobe follow the transcriptions and translations. April 1543 Item þe xxvij day of aprile deliuerit to mathew hammiltoune to be ane coit to James hammiltoune maister of arrane vj elnis purpure veluet, price of the elne iij li x s Summa—xxj li

 27

Item, the 27th day of April, delivered to Matthew Hamilton to be a coat for James Hamilton, Master of Arran, 6 ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £21.

Elizabeth Bonner, “Continuing the ‘Auld Alliance’ in the Sixteenth Century: Scots in France and French in Scotland,” in The Scottish Soldier Abroad, 1247–1967, ed. Grant G. Simpson (Edinburgh: John Donald, 1992), 33.  28 Ibid.  29 Ibid., 35.

294

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe samin four elnis blak gray, price of þe elne ij s vj d Summa—x s iiij d

Item, delivered to him to line the same, 4 ells of black gray, price of each ell 2s 6d; total: 10s 4d.30

Item gevin for ane bonet to him—xxx s

Item, given for a bonnet for him, 30s.

Item gevin for xx elnis traces of gold to þe cote weyand thre vnce, price of þe vnce xxxiiij s Summa—v li ij s/

Item, given for 20 ells of traces of gold for the coat, weighing 3 ounces, price of each ounce 34s; total: £5 2s.

Item for ½ vnce ȝallow silk to sew þame vn witht—iiij s [31]

Item, for ½ ounce of yellow silk to sew them on with, 4s.

November 1543

 30

Item the ix day of November coft to be ane nycht goun to þe maister my lordis sonne ix elnis lylis worsat pryce of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—vj li

Item, the 9th day of November, bought to be a night gown for the master, my lord’s son, 9 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: £6.

Item for making of þe samyn goun and bukram to it—ix s

Item, for making of the same gown and buckram for it, 9s.

Item for making of ane ny t goun of pyle gray to þe said maister þe gray send furth of hammiltoun—iij s

Item, for making of a night gown of pile gray for the said master, the gray sent forth from Hamilton, 3s.

…

…

Item for translating and making of ane goun and cote of taffateis to þe said maister of hammiltoun þt was my Lord gouernoris of before—xiij s

Item, for altering and making of a gown and coat of taffeta for the said master of Hamilton, that was previously my lord governor’s, 13s.

…

…

Item the xxviij day of nouember boucht to be þe maister of hammiltoun ane goun ix elnis and ane half of blak welwet pryce of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxxiij li v s

Item, the 28th day of November, bought to be the master of Hamilton a gown, 9½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £33 5s.

Item for vj elnis and ane half of dalmyostage to lyne þe said goun pryce of þe elne vij s Summa—xlv s vj d

Item, for 6½ ells of demi-ostage to line the said gown, price of each ell 7s; total: 45s 6d.

Item for making of þe said goun—xiiij s

Item, for making of the said gown, 14s.

The total should be 10s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 29 5

Item for making and translating of tua cottis of taffateis to þe said master quhilk war my lord Gouernoris of before—xij s

Item, for making and altering of two coats of taffeta for the said master which were previously my lord governor’s, 12s.

Item for half ane elne of welwet to narve þe tane of þe saidis coittis—xxxij s

Item, for ½ ell of velvet to trim one of the said coats, 32s.

Item ane vnce and ane half of pasmentis to þe other cote price—liiij s ix d

Item, an ounce and a half of passementerie for the other, price 54s 9d.

Item for lynnyng to þe saidis cottis—xvj s

Item, for lining for the said coats, 16s.

Item for bukram to þe pouches of þame— xij d

Item, for buckram for the pockets of them, 12d.

Item for making of þame—vj s

Item, for making of them, 6s.

Item þe xxix day of nouember for making of ane doublat to þe maister of þe rest of þe saidis coittis—ij s

Item, the 29th day of November, for making of a doublet for the master of the rest of the said coats, 2s.

Item for lynnyng and stenting to It—viij s

Item, for lining and stiffening for it, 8s.

Item thre elnis fustiane to be him ane other doublat and ane pair of breikis price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxvij s

Item, 3 ells of fustian to be another doublet and a pair of breeches for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 27s.

Item for making of þe saiddis breikis and ane other pair of þe foresaid taffate to him—ij s

Item, for making of the said breeches and another pair of the aforesaid taffeta for him, 2s.

Item for bukram to lyne þame baith—iij s ix d

Item, for buckram to line them both, 3s 9d.

Item for making of þe doublat of fustiane lynyng and stenting to it—x s

Item, for making of the doublet of fustian, lining, and stiffening for it, x s.

Item þe samyn day coft to be ane goun and ane cote to þe said maister foure elnis and ane half of freis pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li x[j s]

Item, the same day, bought to be a gown and a coat for the said master, 4½ ells of frieze, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.

Item ane elne of welwot to vane? þe said goun and cote pryce—iij li v s

Item, an ell of velvet to trim? the said gown and coat, price £3 5s.

Item for lynnyng to þe said cote—viij s

Item, for lining for the said coat, 8s.

Item for making of þe goun and cote—x s

Item, for making of the gown and coat, 10s.

29 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre quarterris of blak to be þe said maister tua pair of hois pryce—xxiiij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of black to be the said master two pairs of hose, price 24s 6d.

Item for making and schering of þame—20 d

Item, for making and shearing of them, 20d.

Item half ane elne of taffate to be him gartanis pryce—ix s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta to be garters for him, price 9s.

Item for translating and making of ane pair of hois of welwot quhilkis war my lord gouernoris of before—ij s

Item, for altering and making of a pair of hose of velvet, which were previously my lord governor’s, 2s.

Item for bukram to pak þir clathis in—iij s ix d [56]

Item, for buckram to pack these clothes in, 3s 9d.

December 1543 Item þe xiij day of December ane bonet of welwot to þe maister of hammiltoun price þairof—xxvj s

Item, the 13th day of December, a bonnet of velvet for the master of Hamilton, price thereof 26s.

…

…



ane elne? of taffate of 31 to be belt and gartanis for þe said maister pryce thairof—xvj s

an ell? of taffeta of to be belt and garters for the said master, price thereof 16s.

…

…

Item for ane coffer to þe said maisterris clathis pryce thairof—xxx s [62]

Item, for a coffer for the said master’s clothes, price thereof 30s.

August 1544 Item þe xxvj day of august for tua dosoun of silken pointtis to þe maister of hammiltoun—iij s iiij d [90]

 31

Item, the 26th day of August for 24 silk points for the master of Hamilton, 3s 4d.

This portion of the manuscript is considerably damaged, but only one line item is completely illegible. Paul’s transcription does not include items from the damaged area.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 297

October 1544 Item þe xx day of october boucht to þe maister of hammiltoun to be him ane ryding cote at his departing to sanctandrois ij elnis freis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, the 20th day of October, bought for the Master of Hamilton, to be a riding coat for him at his departing to St. Andrews, 2 ells of frieze, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item xij elnis pasmentis to þe said cote price of þe elne ij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 12 ells of passementerie for the said coat, price of each ell 2s; total: 24s.

Item ane quarter vnce sylk to sew on þe saidis pasmentis price—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce of silk to sew on the said passementerie, price 2s.

Item xij buttonis of sylk to þe said cote price—iij s

Item, 12 buttons of silk for the said coat, price 3s.

Item ij dosoun of sylkin pointtis—iiij s [92]

Item, 24 silk points, 4s.

December 1544

 32

Item þe xxj day of December ix elnis of lynnyng claih to be sarkis to þe maister of hammiltoun price of þe elne ij s vj d Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, the 21st day of December, 9 ells of linen cloth to be shirts for the Master of Hamilton, price of each ell 2s 6d; total: 22s 6d.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 24s.

Item xj quarteris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat and ane pair of brekis price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet and a pair of breeches for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item for lynnyng to lyne þe brekis—ij s

Item, for lining [linen?] to line the breeches, 2s.

Item for lynnyng of þis foresaid doublat and ane doublat of welwot to him þe welwot gottin furt of þe castell—vj s

Item, for lining of this aforesaid doublet and a doublet of velvet for him, the velvet gotten forth from the castle, 6s.

be him ane pair of 32 —xxxij s

be him a pair of , 32s.

Item tua dosoun of sewing pasmentis to him price—iij s iiij d

Item, 24 sewing passementeries for him, price 3s 4d.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing.

29 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne of taffate to be him belt and gartanis price—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta to be belt and garters for him, price 16s.

Item for fustiane to lyne ane pair of brekis of welwot þe welwot gottin furth of þe castell—vj s

Item, for fustian to line a pair of breeches of velvet, the velvet gotten forth from the castle, 6s.

Item for making of þir foresaid clathis—xij s

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, 12s.

Item for thre pair of gluvis to him—iij s

Item, for three pairs of gloves for him, 3s.

Item for tua pair of schone to him—iiij s [103]

Item, for two pairs of shoes for him, 4s.

Item to þe maister of hammiltonis seruand at his departing to sanctandrois wt þe maisterris clathis—x s [106]

Item, to the Master of Hamilton’s servant at his departing to St. Andrew’s with the Master’s clothes, 10s.

March 1544/45 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiall command to his gracis sone maister of hammyltoun ane elne and ane half of freis to be him ane coit price of þe elne xxxviij s—lvij s

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s son, the Master of Hamilton, 1½ ells of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 57s.

Item quarter and half quarter blak welwot to vane þis coit price—xxv s ix d

Item, ⅜ ell of black velvet to trim this coat, price 25s 9d.

Item tua elnis and ane half of gray to lyne þis coit price—vj s iij d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line this coat, price 6s 3d.

Item x elnis holland clait to be him sarkis price of þe elne vij s Summa—iij li x s

Item, 10 ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for him, price of each ell 7s; total: £3 10s.

Item making of þis coit—iij s [118]

Item, making of this coat, 3s.

April 1545 Item þe xxv day of appryle to his gracis sonne maister of hammiltoun vij quarteris freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—lix s vj d

Item, the 25th day of April, for his grace’s son, the Master of Hamilton, 1¾ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: 59s 6d.

Item tua elnis blak to be him ane cote pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 29 9

Item for half ane elne of welwot to vane þis cote pryce—xxxv s

Item, for ½ ell of velvet to trim this coat, price 35s.

Item for thre? elnis? 33 ? iij s Summa—

Item for 3? ells? ? 3s, total:

Item tua fresit skynnis peis xviij s Summa—

Item, 2 friezed skins piece 18s, total:

Item half ane elne of welwot to be him schone price

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for him, price

Item xij elnis lynnyng to be him sarkis price of þe elne ij s vj d Summa—xxx s

Item, 12 ells of linen to be shirts for him, price of each ell 2s 6d; total: 30s.

…

…

Item for ane pair of butes to him—x s

Item, for a pair of boots for him, 10s.

Item for vj pair of schone to him—xij s [128]

Item, for 6 pairs of shoes for him, 12s.

December 1545

 33

Item þe samyn day to be ane goun to his gracis sonn þe maister of Hammyltoun viij elnis of 34 price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, the same day, to be a gown for his grace’s son, the Master of Hamilton, 8 ells of price of each ell 38s; total: £15 4s.

Item for half ane elne and half ane quarter of welwot to narve þe samyn—xliiij s

Item, for ⅝ ell of velvet to trim the same, 44s.

Item for ane furring of blak birge to þe said goun and to þe furrour for his labourris—v li xij s

Item, for a furring of black lamb for the said gown, and to the furrier for his labors, £5 12s.

Item þe sam day for vij quarteris vterris fyne to be him hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—lvj s

Item, the same day, for 1¾ ells of utterfine to be hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 56s.

Item ane elne and ane half of taffate to lyne þame price—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line them, price 24s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. Paul’s transcription does not include the two line items in the heavily damaged area.  34 This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and the transcription of this line item relies heavily on Paul’s.

3 0 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for ane bonet to him—xxxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 34s.

Item for lynnyng to his hois—iij s vj d

Item, for lining for his hose, 3s 6d.

Item for half ane vnce of sylk to steik þe samyn—v s

Item, for half an ounce of silk to sew the same, 5s.

Item for schering of þir hois—xij d

Item, for shearing of these hose, 12d.

Item ane elne of bukram to bordour his goun vnder þe furring—iij s vj d

Item, an ell of buckram to border his gown under the furring, 3s 6d.

Item for half ane elne of taffate to be him ane belt—x s

Item, for ½ ell of taffeta to be a belt for him, 10s.

Item for half ane elne of taffate to be him gartanis—viij s

Item, for ½ ell of taffeta to be garters for him, 8s.

Item for thre dosane of silk poynttis to him—vj s [171]

Item, for 36 silk points for him, 6s.

February 1545/46 Item for ane hat to þe maister of hammiltoun—xij s [187]

Item, for a hat for the Master of Hamilton, 12s.

April 1546 Item xviijto aprilis to his gracis sonn þe maister of errane four elnis and ane half of spanȝe freis to be him ane goun and cloke cote price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xj s

Item, April 18th, for his grace’s son, the Master of Arran, 4½ ells of Spanish frieze to be a gown and coat for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.

Item ane elne and ane quarter of vterfyne to be him hois with dubill schankis price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of utterfine to be hose with double legs for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item tua elnis fyne blak sating to be him ane dowblat price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iij li xvj s

Item, 2 ells of fine black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £3 16s.

Item tua elnis blak fustiane to be him ane dowblat price of þe elne viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xxviij s

Item, a bonnet for him, price 28s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 0 1

Item tua elnis taffate and ane half to draw furth his hois and to be him belt & gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta to draw forth his hose and to be belt and garters for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item 35 welwot to vane his goun? of freis price—iij li x s

Item, velvet to trim his gown? of frieze, price £3 10s.

Item thre elnis gray? to lyne his cote price of þe elne xl d Summa—x s

Item, 3 ells of gray? to line his coat, price of each ell 40d; total: 10s.

Item half ane elne of quhite to lyne his hois price—iij s

Item, ½ ell of white to line his hose, price 3s.

Item for stenting lynnyng and making of thir doublat hois & clathis—xviij s [196]

Item, for stiffening, lining, and making of these doublet, hose, and clothes, 18s.

October 1546

 35

Item to be ane cote to his graces eldest sone Captiue within þe castell of Sanctandrois tua elnis blak price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, to be a coat for his grace’s eldest son, captive within the castle of St. Andrews, 2 ells of black, price of each ell 32s; total: £3 4s.

Item half ane elne of blak welwote to þe samyn—xxxiiij s

Item, ½ ell of black velvet for the same, 34s.

Item thre elnis blak gray to þe same—x s [223]

Item, 3 ells of black gray for the same, 10s.

Item ane elne of blak to be him hois—xxxij s

Item, an ell of black to be hose for him, 32s.

Item tua elnis fustiane to be him ane doublat—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, 16s.

Item ix quarteris quhite to lyne his doublat & hois—vj s ix d

Item, 2¼ ells of white to line his doublet and hose, 6s 9d.

Item stenting to his doublat—ix d

Item, stiffening for his doublet, 9d.

Item tua elnis and ane half pyle gray to be him ane wyntar goun price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of pile gray to be a winter gown for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item tua pair of schone to him—iiij s

Item, two pairs of shoes for him, 4s.

Item for threid to sew þir clathis—xij d [224]

Item, for thread to sew these clothes, 12d.

This portion of the manuscript is heavily damaged with pieces missing. Paul’s transcription does not include the last four line items.

3 02

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre dosoun of fyne sylkyn pointis— ix s [225]

Item, 36 fine silk points, 9s.

January 1546/47

 36

Item xxviijto Januarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces eldest sone and furnist be Archiebald dewar viij elnis Lylis worsate to be him ane goun price of þe elne xv s Summa—vj li

Item, January 28th, by my lord governor’s order and special command, to his grace’s eldest son and furnished by Archibald Dewar, 8 ells of Lille worsted to be a gown for him, price of each ell 15s; total: £6.

Item half ane elne of welwote to it—xxx s

Item, ½ ell of velvet for it, 30s.

Item ane furring of buge and blake lambe skynnes to it—iiij li viij s

Item, a furring of budge and black lamb36 skins for it, £4 8s.

Item for bukrame to it—viij s [253]

Item, for buckram for it, 8s.

Item fyve elnis and ane iij quartar of taffate armosene to be him ane other goun & ane doublat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa— ix li xv s vj d

Item, 5¾ ells of armosene taffeta to be another gown and a doublet for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £9 15s 6d.

Item half ane elne of welwote to bordour ane goun with—xxx s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to border a gown with, 30s.

Item bukrame to it—ij s [254]

Item, buckram for it, 2s.

Item vj quartaris braid bombasye to be him ane other doublat price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of broad bombazine to be another doublet for him, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat price—ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, price 2s.

Item vj quartaris franche reid to lyne þame price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s [255]

Item, 1½ ells of French red to line them, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Budge was also lambskin dressed with the wool, but perhaps in this instance the clerk meant to distinguish between white and black lambswool furring or between two different qualities. Paul transcribes “lambe” as “lambrocht,” a reading which relied on an assumption that the final curl (or perhaps the adjacent ink blotch) was meant to indicate an abbreviation. However, the final character is nearly identical to the final e of “buckrame” just a few lines down.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 03

 37

Item vj quartaris stemmyng to be him hois price of þe elne xlv s Summa—iij li vij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of stemming to be hose for him, price of each ell 45s; total: £3 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis & ane quartar taffeteis to draw furtht þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 2¼ ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 36s.

Item ane elne of reid to lyne þir hois price—xvj s [256]

Item, an ell of red to line these hose, price 16s.

Item thre elnis and ane half of freis to be him ane cloke and ane cote price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, 3½ ells of frieze to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £6 6s.

Item bukram to lyne þe cote wt—vj s

Item, buckram to line the coat with, 6s.

Item xij buttonis to it—iiij s

Item, 12 buttons for it, 4s.

Item for making of þir tua gownes tua doublattis and twa pair of hois cote and cloke—xxxv s [257]

Item, for making of these two gowns, two doublets, and two pairs of hose, coat, and cloak, 35s.

Item furnist be þe same precept tua bonettis price—xlviij s

Item, furnished by the same precept, two bonnets, price 48s.

Item ane elne of taffate to be him belt and gartanis price—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta to be belt and garters for him, price 16s.

Item tua dosoun of silkin pointtis to þir clathis—iiij s viij d

Item, 24 silk points for these clothes, 4s 8d.

Item foure pair of schone to him—viij s

Item, four pairs of shoes for him, 8s.

Item ane coffer to put þir clathis In—l s [258]

Item, a coffer to put these clothes in, 50s.

Item xvj elnis claith to be him sarkis price of þe elne ij s viij d Summa—xl s [259]

Item, 16 ells of cloth to be shirts for him, price of each ell 2s 8d; total: 40s.37

The total should be 42s 8d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 2s 6d instead of 2s 8d.

3 04

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

March 1546/47 Item xmo marcii ane bonet of welwote to þe maister of Arrane boucht at James curle—xxxiiij s

Item, March 10th, a bonnet of velvet for the Master of Arran, bought at James Curle, 34s.

Item boucht fra him ane blak bonet to þe maister price—xxiiij s

Item, bought from him a black bonnet for the Master, price 24s.

Item ane kais to þir bonettis—iij s vj d [280]

Item, a case for these bonnets, 3s 6d.

Item þe xxvij day of marche bouchte fra James carmychaell and gevin to Besse murray to be sarkes to þe maister xiiij elnis and ane half hollande claith price of þe elne viij s Summa—v li viij s [284]

Item, the 27th day of March, bought from James Carmichael and given to Bessie Murray to be shirts for the Master 14½ ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 8s; total: £5 8s.38

April 1547 Item xiiijio Aprilis tua skynnes to be ane cote to þe maister of arrane price—xlviij s

Item, April 14th, two skins to be a coat for the Master of Arran, price 48s.

Item iij quartaris welwote to þe said cote— iij li

Item, ¾ ell of velvet for the same coat, £3.

Item to Archiebald dewar for buttones & sewing silk to it—vj s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for buttons and sewing silk for it, 6s.

Item to him for making of þe said cote—v s [303]

Item, to him for making of the said coat, 5s.

July 1547

 38

Item þe samyn tyme furnist be Archiebald Dewar to þe maister of arrane thre elnis and ane quartar spanȝe freis to be him ane cote and ane cloke price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—vj li xij s

Item, at the same time, furnished by Archibald Dewar to the Master of Arran 3¼ ells of Spanish frieze to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £6 12s.39

Item for bukrame to lyne þis cote of þe maisteris—viij s

Item, for buckram to line this coat of the master’s, 8s.

Item xiiij buttonis to þis cote—iiij s viij d

Item, 14 buttons for this coat, 4s 8d.

The total should be £5 16s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 13½ instead of 14½.  39 The total should be £6 3s 6d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 0 5

Item vj quartaris bombasye to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 1½ ells of bombazine to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item canves to þis doublat—iij s

Item, canvas for this doublet, 3s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois price xlviij s

Item, an ell of stemming to be a pair of hose for him, price 48s.

Item fyve quartaris reid to lyne þir hois and doublat price of þe elne xiiij s Summa— xviij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of red to line these hose and doublet, price of each ell 14s; total: 18s 6d.40

Item vj quartarres taffate to þir hois price—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta for these hose, price 24s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for making of þir clathis—xiiij s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of these clothes, 14s.

Item ane bonet to þe said maister, boucht at margaret Nychole price xxiiij s [315]

Item, a bonnet for the said master, bought at Margaret Nichol’s, price 24s.

Item thre dosoun silk pointtis to þe maister—vij s [316]

Item, 36 silk points for the Master, 7s.

August 1547 Item tua dosoun silkyn pointtis and ane spunge to þe maister—vij s

Item, 24 silk points and a sponge for the master, 7s.

…

…

Item to be belt and gartanis to þe maister ane elne of taffate—xvj s [323]

Item, to be belt and garters for the master, an ell of taffeta, 16s.

Item ane pair of gluffis to þe maister—iij s [324]

Item, a pair of gloves for the master, 3s.

January 1547/48

 40

Item viijo Januarii to be ane nycht goun to my lorde gouernoures eldest sone foure elnis carcansye gray price of þe elne xvij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, January 8th, to be a night gown for my lord governor’s eldest son, 4 ells of Carcassonne gray, price of each ell 17s; total: £3 8s.

Item vij quartaris freis to be him ane cote pryce of þe elne xxxij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 1¾ ells of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 56s.

The total should be 17s 6d.

3 0 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne and half ane quartar taffate armosene to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 1⅛ ells of armosene taffeta to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 36s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item vj quartaris vnprest blak to be him hois pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—liiij s

Item, 1½ ells of unpressed black to be hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item vj quartaris blak taffate to draw furth þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of black taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item thre elne and ane quartar lylis worsat to be brekis and doublat to þe said maister price of þe elne xvj s Summa—lij s

Item, 3¼ ells of Lille worsted to be breeches and doublet for the said Master, price of each ell 16s; total: 52s.

Item ane elne and thre quartaris blak taffate of genis to be him and his brother belt and gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta of Genoa to be belt and garters for him and his brother, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item thre elnis worsat to be him ane doublat and ane pair of brekis to his brother Jhonne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 3 ells of worsted to be a doublet for him and a pair of breeches for his brother John, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

Item v quartaris blak to be þair laiches of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be their legs of hose, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

…

…

Item tua elnis gray to lyne ane cote of freis to þe maister of hammiltoun price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line a coat of frieze for the Master of Hamilton, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item tua elnis blew to lyne his doublat and brekis price of þe elne vj s Summa—xij s

Item, 2 ells of blue to line his doublet and breeches, price of each ell 6s; total: 12s.

Item ane dosoun of buttounes to his cote—iij s

Item, 12 buttons for his coat, 3s.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne his brotherres brekis and doublat price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line his brother’s breeches and doublet, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item vj quartarres canves to stent baith þair doublattis price—iiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to stiffen both their doublets, price 4s 6d.

Item to Archibald Dewar for making of þir clathis—xx s [345]

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of these clothes, 20s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 07

March 1547/48 Item vij pair of gluffis to his grace and fyve to þe maister his sone—xxj s

Item, seven pairs of gloves for his grace, and five for the Master his son, 21s.

Item vj quartarres of freis to be þe maister ane cote pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— liiij s

Item, 1½ ells of frieze to be a coat for the Master, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis and ane half gray to lyne þis cote price of þe elne xliiij d Summa—ix s ij d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line this coat, price of each ell 44d; total: 9s 2d.

Item for buttounes to it—ij s iiij d

Item, for buttons for it, 2s 4d.

Item for making of it—iiij s [354]

Item, for making of it, 4s.

Item ane elne of taffate to be belt and gartanis to the maister—xviij s

Item, an ell of taffeta to be belt and garters for the Master, 18s.

Item tua elnis blak sating boucht at James borroun to be ane doublat to him price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 2 ells of black satin bought at James Borroun to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £3 4s.

Item tua elnis quhite fustiane to it—viij s

Item, 2 ells white fustian for it, 8s.

Item canves and buttounes to it—v s [356]

Item, canvas and buttons for it, 5s.

May 1548 Item thre quartarres stemmyng to be þe maister tua pair of schankes of hois price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xxxiiij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of stemming to be two pairs of legs of hose for the master, price of each ell 46s; total: 34s 6d.

Item to be stokkis to þir hois vj quartarres blak welwote boucht at James carmychaell price of þe elne iij li xiiij s Summa—v li xj s

Item, to be stocks to these hose, 1½ ells of black velvet bought at James Carmichael’s, price of each ell £3 14s; total: £5 11s.

Item vj quartarres taffate to lyne þir hois— xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line these hose, 24s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar braid reid to lyne þir hois—xv s viij d

Item, ⅝ of an ell broad red to line these hose, 15s 8d.

3 0 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to lyne ane goun and ane cote of my said maisterres þe stuf furnist furthe of þe castell vj elnis ane quartar les new bukrum price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxv s xj d

Item, to line a gown and a coat of my said master’s, the stuff furnished forth from the castle, 5¾ ells of new buckram, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 35s 11d.41

Item half ane elne of canves to stent him ane doublat—xv d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to stiffen a doublet for him, 15d.

Item vj elnis gray to lyne him tua cotis furnist furthe of þe castell—xxx s

Item, 6 ells of gray to line two coats for him, furnished forth from the castle, 30s.

Item half ane elne scottis blak to þir hois— x s [378]

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black for these hose, 10s.

James Hamilton, the Master of Arran/Master of Hamilton, the Regent’s Eldest Son: Wardrobe Summaries Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary April 1543 coat (purple velvet, trimmed with gold traces, lined with black gray) [31] bonnet [31] November 1543 night gown (Lille worsted) [56] night gown (pile gray) [56] gown (taffeta, remade from one of the Regent’s) [56] coat (taffeta, remade from one of the Regent’s) [56] gown (black velvet, lined with demi-ostage) [56] coat (taffeta, remade from the Regent’s, trimmed with velvet) [56] coat (taffeta, remade from the Regent’s, trimmed with passementerie) [56] doublet (made from the remainder of the taffeta from the Regent’s two coats) [56] doublet (fustian) [56] breeches (fustian, lined with buckram) [56] breeches (taffeta, lined with buckram) [56] gown (frieze, trimmed with velvet) [56]  41

The total should be 25s 10½d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 0 9

coat (frieze, trimmed with velvet) [56] 2 pairs of hose (black) [56] garters (taffeta) [56] hose (velvet, remade from the Regent’s) [56] December 1543 bonnet (velvet) [62] belt and garters (taffeta) [62] August 1544 24 silk points [90] October 1544 riding coat (frieze, trimmed with passementerie, with 12 buttons) [92] 24 silk points [92] December 1544 shirts (linen cloth) [103] bonnet [103] doublet (black fustian) [103] pair of breeches (black fustian) [103] doublet (velvet) [103] pair of breeches (velvet, lined with fustian) [103] 24 sewing passementeries [103] belt and garters (taffeta) [103] 3 pairs of gloves [103] 2 pairs of shoes [103] March 1544/45 coat (frieze, trimmed with black velvet, lined with gray) [118] shirts (Holland cloth) [118] April 1545 cloak (frieze) [128] coat (black, trimmed with velvet) [128] shoes (velvet) [128] shirts (linen) [128] a pair of boots [128] 6 pairs of shoes [128] December 1545 gown (trimmed with velvet, furred with black lamb, with buckram under the furring) [171] hose (sheared utterfine, lined with taffeta) [171] bonnet [171]

3 10

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

belt and garters (taffeta) [171] 36 silk points [171] February 1545/46 hat [187] April 1546 gown (Spanish frieze, trimmed with velvet) [196] coat (Spanish frieze, lined with gray?) [196] hose (utterfine, lined with white, drawn forth with taffeta) [196] double legs of hose (utterfine) [196] doublet (fine black satin) [196] doublet (black fustian) [196] bonnet [196] belt and garters (taffeta) [196] October 1546 coat (black, trimmed with black velvet, lined with black gray) [223] hose (black, lined with white) [224] doublet (fustian, lined with white, stiffened) [224] winter gown (pile gray) [224] 2 pairs of shoes [224] 36 silk points [225] January 1546/47 gown (Lille worsted, trimmed with velvet, furred with budge and black lamb) [253] gown (armosene taffeta bordered with velvet) [254] doublet (armosene taffeta) [254] doublet (broad bombazine, lined with French red, stiffened with canvas) [255] hose (stemming, drawn forth with taffeta, lined with red) [256] coat (frieze, lined with buckram, with 12 buttons) [257] cloak (frieze) [257] 2 bonnets [258] belt and garters (taffeta) [258] 24 silk points [258] 4 pairs of shoes [258] shirts [259] March 1546/47 bonnet (velvet) [280] bonnet (black) [280] shirts (Holland cloth) [284]



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 11

April 1547 coat (leather, trimmed with velvet, with buttons) [303] July 1547 coat (Spanish frieze, lined with buckram, with 14 buttons) [315] cloak (Spanish frieze) [315] doublet (bombazine, lined with red) [315] hose (stemming, lined with red, with taffeta [not clear if it is for lining or drawing out]) [315] bonnet [315] 36 silk points [316] August 1547 24 silk points [323] belt and garters (taffeta) [323] pair of gloves [324] January 1547/48 night gown (Carcassone gray) [345] coat (frieze, lined with gray, with 12 buttons) [345] doublet (armosene taffeta, stiffened with canvas) [345] bonnet [345] hose (unpressed black, drawn forth with black taffeta) [345] legs of hose (black) [345] doublet (Lille worsted, lined with blue) [345] breeches (Lille worsted, lined with blue) [345] belt and garters (black taffeta of Genoa) [345] doublet (worsted, stiffened with canvas) [345] March 1547/48 5 pairs of gloves [354] coat (frieze, lined with gray, with buttons) [354] belt and garters (taffeta) [356] doublet (black satin, lined with white fustian, stiffened with canvas, with buttons) [356] May 1548 stocks of hose (black velvet, lined with taffeta and broad red, with Scottish black) [378] 2 pairs of legs of hose (stemming) [378] gown (lined with new buckram) [378] coat (lined with new buckram) [378] doublet (stiffened with canvas) [378] 2 coats (lined with gray) [378]

3 12

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Summary by Category Gowns taffeta gowns [56, 254] frieze gowns [56, 196] other gowns [56, 171, 224, 253, 378] Night Gowns [56, 345] Coats riding coat [92] frieze coats [56, 118, 196, 257, 315, 345, 354] black coats [128, 223] other coats [31, 56, 303, 378] Cloaks [128, 257, 315] Doublets fustian doublets [56, 103, 196, 224] taffeta doublets [56, 254, 345] satin doublets [196, 356] bombazine doublets [255, 315] other doublets [103, 345, 378] Hose utterfine hose [171, 196] stemming hose [256, 315] black hose [56, 224, 345] other hose and stocks of hose [56, 378] legs of hose [196, 345, 378] Breeches [56, 103, 345] Shirts [103, 118, 128, 259, 284] Bonnets velvet bonnets [62, 280] other bonnets [31, 103, 171, 196, 258, 280, 315, 345] Hat [187]



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 13

Footwear [103, 128, 224, 258] pair of boots [128] Gloves [103, 324, 354] Belts and Garters belts [62, 103, 171, 196, 258, 323, 345, 356] garters [56, 62, 103, 171, 196, 258, 323, 345, 356] Points [90, 92, 171, 225, 258, 316, 323] Notions 24 sewing passementeries [103]

John Hamilton John was the Regent’s third son, born in 1540 or 1541,42 and the one who eventually succeeded to his father’s title. His elder brother James was ruled to be insane, and the second son Gavin died young.43 John himself was quite young as the regency began. Some of his wardrobe was ordered in conjunction with his brother James’s, although they did not appear to have matching outfits. Most of his clothing in the Accounts was in preparation for him to accompany Mary Stewart’s train to France in 1548 along with his elder brother and his sister Jean. At that time, he was given a complete wardrobe including accessories of various kinds but excluding gowns, which he was too young to wear. The clothes included several items of silk and some with passementerie or silver buttons. Despite his youth, he represented the house of Hamilton and needed to be well-dressed. September 1543

 42

Item þe xv day of September coft to be ane cote to ane sonn of my lord gouernoris callit Jhonn hammltoune foure elnis and ane half blak welwet price of þe elne lv s Summa—xij li vij s vj d

Item, the 15th day of September, bought to be a coat for a son of my lord governor’s, called John Hamilton, 4½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell 55s; total: £12 7s 6d.

Item for gray to lyne þe said cote—ix s

Item, for gray to line the said coat, 9s.

Hamilton, History, 18. Ibid.

 43

3 14

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for thre elnis holmys fustiane to lyne þe slevis and bodyis of þe said cote price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, for 3 ells of Ulm fustian to line the sleeves and bodies of the said coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item for making of þe said cote—x s [47]

Item, for making of the said coat, 10s.

March 1546/47 Item, be my lord gouernoures precept to his gracis sonne Jhonne, thre quartarres freis to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, for his grace’s son John, ¾ ell of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 3s.44

Item for lyning to þis cote buttonis and making þairof xxij s vj d [285]

Item, for lining for this coat, buttons, and making thereof 22s 6d.

January 1547/48: This is part of an order for clothes for both John and his elder brother. The “him” in the line items is James, and “his brother” is John.

 44

Item ane elne and thre quartaris blak taffate of genis to be him and his brother belt and gartanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of black taffeta of Genoa to be belt and garters for him and his brother, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item thre elnis worsat to be him ane doublat and ane pair of brekis to his brother Jhonne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 3 ells of worsted to be a doublet for him and a pair of breeches for his brother John, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

Item v quartaris blak to be þair laiches of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be their legs of hose, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item for ane bonet to Jhonne—xvj s

Item, for a bonnet for John, 16s.

…

…

Item tua elnis gray to lyne his brotherres brekis and doublat price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line his brother’s breeches and doublet, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item vj quartarres canves to stent baith þair doublattis price—iiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to stiffen both their doublets, price 4s 6d.

Item to Archibald Dewar for making of þir clathis—xx s [345]

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of these clothes, 20s.

The total given would be correct if the amount of fabric were 1¾ ells rather than ¾ ell.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 15

May 1548 Item tertio Maii for thre sarkes to his graces sone at his departing to france—iij li xij s [377]

Item, May 3rd, for three shirts for his grace’s son at his departing to France, £3 12s.

July 1548

 45

Item ixto Julii foure elnis gray welwote to be ane cote to his graces sone Jhonne hammiltoun at his departing towart france price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xiiij li

Item, July 9th, 4 ells of gray velvet to be a coat for his grace’s son, John Hamilton, at his departing toward France, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £14.

Item thre elnis gray taffate to be him ane doublat and brekis price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, 3 ells of gray taffeta to be a doublet and breeches for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £4 16s.

Item tua elnis and ane half reid taffate to be him doublat and brekis price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of red taffeta to be doublet and breeches for him, price of each ell 35s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item xiiij elnis and ane quartar hollande claith to be him sarkis price of þe elne x s Summa—vij li v s

Item, 14¼ ells of Holland cloth to be shirts for him, price of each ell 10s; total: £7 5s.45

Item tua elnis hollande claith to be him naipkynnis price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of Holland cloth to be handkerchiefs for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half welwote to be him bonettis price of þe elne iiij li Summa—iij li x s

Item, ⅞ ell of velvet to be bonnets for him, price of each ell £4; total: £3 10s.

Item half an elne of sating to þir bonnetis—xvij s

Item, ½ ell of satin for these bonnets, 17s.

Item half ane elne of welwote to be him schone—xl s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for him, 40s.

Item tua elnis and ane half pareis blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of Paris black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane elne of taffate to be him belt & gartanis price—xviij s

Item, an ell of taffeta to be belt and garters for him, price 18s.

The total should be £7 2s 6d.

3 16

 46

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre dosoun of pointtis to his clathis—vij s

Item, 36 points for his clothes, 7s.

Item to be him thre pair of schankes ane elne of gray stemmyng price—xv s

Item, to be three pairs of legs for him, an ell of gray stemming, price 15s.

Item half ane elne of reid stemmyng to be tua pair of schankes price—xx s

Item, ½ ell of red stemming to be two pairs of legs, price 20s.

Item to lyne thre cotis of welwote to þe said Jhonne quhairof tua furnist wt furnesing of his grace awyn sex elnis gray price of þe elne v s Summa—xxx s

Item, to line three coats of velvet for the said John, whereof two were furnished with furnishing of his grace’s own, 6 ells of gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 30s.

Item to lyne his doublat and brekis vij elnis quhite fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxxviij s vj d

Item, to line his doublet and breeches, 7 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 38s 6d.46

Item for ane hat to him—xviij s

Item, for a hat for him, 18s.

Item thre pair of gluffis—vj s

Item, three pairs of gloves, 6s.

Item for silk to sew þe pasmentis of his cote—xiiij s

Item, for silk to sew the passementerie of his coat, 14s.

Item v quartaris canves to þir doublattis— vj s

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas for these doublets, 6s.

Item for silwer buttonnis to ane of his cotis—xviij s

Item, for silver buttons for one of his coats, 18s.

Item for bukram to his bonnetis—iiij s

Item, for buckram for his bonnets, 4s.

Item for making of þame—xj s

Item, for making of them, 11s.

Item for making of his thre cotis—xxx s

Item, for making of his three coats, 30s.

Item for making of his tua doublattis tua pair of brekis and fyve pair of schankes— xij s

Item, for making of his two doublets, two pairs of breeches, and five pairs of legs, 12s.

Item in drinksilwer to þe tailȝeoure chylder—v s

Item, in drinksilver for the tailor’s children,47 5s.

The total should be 42s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 5s 6d rather than 6s. These children are the tailor’s apprentices.

 47



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 17

Item for making and sewing of his sarkis and naipkynnis—xx s

Item, for making and sewing of his shirts and handkerchiefs, 20s.

Item for ane coffer to turs þir clathis In— xlv s [386]

Item, for a coffer to pack these clothes in, 45s.

Item to dauid spens send to Dumbertane with my lord gouernoures sone and douchterris clathis at þair departing to france— xlix s [393]

Item, to David Spense, sent to Dumbarton with my lord governor’s son’s and daughter’s clothes at their departing to France, 49s.

December 1548 Item to arche dewar tailȝeour as ane tiket at þe fute of his compt beris for making of my lord gouernoures sonnys claytis and claytis of þe maister of argilis—viij li v s [424]

Item, to Archie Dewar, tailor, as a ticket at the end of his account shows, for making of my lord governor’s son’s clothes and clothes of the Master of Argyll’s, £8 5s.

David Hamilton The Regent’s fourth son David, probably born in 1542 or 1543,48 was often given clothing in tandem with his younger brother Claude, especially in the earlier years of the regency. The first entry for him refers to him as his grace’s youngest son, because at that time Claude had not yet been born. The five-year hiatus that follows makes it clear that his clothing needs were being met from some other source. The small amounts of fabric in the early entries are consistent with clothing for a very young child. Even these were made of expensive fabrics and trimmed in the same manner as clothing for adults. Interestingly, at the beginning of the regency, David’s clothes had a higher percentage of white, gray, and red and a lower percentage of black than those of adults or even his eldest brother. This shifted towards a predominance of black as he grew older and breeks gave way to hose. By the end of the regency, he was grown-up enough for gowns. He also had an interest in archery and was given bows and arrows as well as a shooting glove. David’s records include a mystery fabric named grauce, which was invariably tawny. The Dictionary of the Scots Language traces grauce to gris, the French for gray, and the Middle Low German grau, a gray cloth.49 This leads to the hypothesis that “tanny grauce” was a color name that became a fabric name.50

 48

Hamilton, History, 16. DSL, s.v. “Tanny, B.2.b.”  50 This naming practice was not uncommon. See Gale Owen-Crocker, “Naming of Cloths,” in OwenCrocker, Coatsworth, and Hayward, Encyclopedia, 375–76.  49

3 18

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

April 1544 Item þe xviij day of apprile to be ane to his gracis ȝongest sonne ane elne of franche quhyte price þairof—xxx s

Item, the 18th day of April, to be a [coat] for his grace’s youngest son, an ell of French white, price thereof, 30s.

Item thre elnis quhite fustiane to lyne ane other cote of quhyte dalmes to þe samyn barne þe dalmes gottin furth of þe gardrop price of þe elne of þe fustiane iij s iiij d Summa—x s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line another coat of white damask for the same child, the damask gotten forth from the wardrobe, price of each ell of the fustian 3s 4d; total: 10s.

Item þe samyn day to be ane wynter cote to þe said barne tua elnis and half ane quarter of franche gray pryce of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxix s ix d

Item, the same day, to be a winter coat for the said child, 2⅛ ells of French gray, price of each ell 14s; total: 29s 9d.

Item ane quarter of gray welwot to narve þe said cote price þairof xx s [81]

Item, ¼ ell of gray velvet to trim the said coat, price thereof 20s.

March 1548/49 Item to dauid and claude my lord gouernoures tua ȝoungest sonnes tua bonettis price—lvij s [453]

Item, to David and Claude, my lord governor’s two youngest sons, two bonnets, price 57s.

April 1549 Item viijo Aprilis to Archibald dewar to sew þe sylwer pasmentis vpoun þe cotis of welwote of my lorde gouernoures ȝoungest sonnes Dauid and Claude þe welwote my lorde gouernoures awyn sex vnces quhite silk price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, April 8th, to Archibald Dewar to sew the silver passementerie upon the coats of velvet of my lord governor’s youngest sons David and Claude, the velvet my lord governor’s own, 6 ounces white silk, price of each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item tua elnis and ane half gray to lyne þir cotis price of þe elne v s Summa—xij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line these coats, price of each ell 5s; total: 12s 6d.

Item an elne of braid reid to be þame hois—xxx s

Item, an ell of broad red to be hose for them, 30s.

Item tua elnis and ane half reid taffate armosene to be þame tua doublattis price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of red armosene taffeta to be two doublets for them, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item to stent þir doublattis ane elne of canves—iij s vj d

Item, to stiffen their doublets, an ell of canvas, 3s 6d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 19

Item thre elnis quhite fustiane to lyne þir doublattis price of þe elne vj s Summa— xviij s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line these doublets, price of each ell 6s; total: 18s.

Item tua bonettis of welwote to þame—iiij li x s

Item, two bonnets of velvet for them, £4 10s.

Item xvij elnis bartane claith to be sarkis to þame—iij li xiiij s

Item, 17 ells Bretagne cloth to be shirts for them, £3 14s.

Item vj quartaris hollande claith to be ruffis sychtis and nekkis to þir sarkis—xiiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of Holland cloth to be ruffs, scyes, and necks to these shirts, 14s 6d.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be brekis to þame price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be breeches for them, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item thre elnis quhyte fustiane to lyne þame—xv s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line them, 15s.

Item tua dosoun of sylkin pointtis to þame—iiij s [460]

Item, 24 silk points for them, 4s.

July 1549 Item þe ferd day of Julii to be ane cote to my Lorde gouernoures sone Dauid In dumfermling vij quartaris tannye grauce boucht at George henrysounes wyf price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—lvj s

Item, the third day of July, to be a coat for my lord governor’s son David in Dunfermline, 1¾ ells of tawny grauce, bought at George Henryson’s wife, price of each ell 32s; total: 56s.

Item to be him ane doublat tua elnis and ane half blak fustiane price of þe elne x s Summa—xxv s

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2½ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 10s; total: 25s.

Item v quartaris of þis same fusteane to be him ane pair of brekis price—xij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of this same fustian to be a pair of breeches for him, price 12s 6d.

Item ane elne of blak welwote to bordoure þis cote price—iij li xv s

Item, an ell of black velvet to border this coat, price £3 15s.

Item ane vnce of silk to sew þis welwote— vij s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew this velvet, 7s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half blak stemmyng of myllane to be him hois—xxxix s iiij d ob

Item, ⅞ ell of black stemming of Milan to be hose for him, 39s 4½d.

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Item half ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat price—ij s

Item, ½ ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, price 2s.

Item lyning to his coit breikis and doublet—xxij s vj d

Item, lining for his coat, breeches, and doublet, 22s 6d.

Item […] buttonis to þis coit—iiij s [482]

Item […] buttons for this coat, 4s.

Item siclike bocht at william kar tua bonettis to his graces tway sonnys dauid and gloud—v li

Item, similarly bought at William Kerr, two bonnets for his grace’s two sons, David and Claude, £5.

Item ane kais to þir bonnettis—iiij s [483]

Item, a case for these bonnets, 4s.

Item be my lord gonoures command to archabald dewaris seruand in drinksiluer at þe making of his graces bairnys claytis— xxij s vj d [485]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to Archibald Dewar’s servant in drinksilver at the making of his grace’s children’s clothes, 22s 6d.

Item to ane boy direct to Dumfermling with ane cote of my lorde gouernoures sonnes of tannye grauce—iiij s [486]

Item, to a boy traveling directly to Dunfermline with a coat of my lord governor’s son’s of tawny grauce, 4s.

February 1549/50 Item to be ane coit to his graces sone Dauid ane elne and half ane quartar violet in grane price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—iij li xviij s ix d

Item, to be a coat for his grace’s son David, 1⅛ ells of violet in grain, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £3 18s 9d.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þis coit—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line this coat, 10s.

Item ane elne of fyne weluot to þe samyn— iiij li

Item, an ell of fine velvet for the same, £4.

Item ane vnce of silk to þe bordour of þis coit—viij s

Item, an ounce of silk for the border of this coat, 8s.

Item foure elnis and ane quartar fyne blak fusteane to be him doublet and tua pair of breikis þe elne ix s—xxxviij s iij d

Item, 4¼ ells of fine black fustian to be a doublet and two pairs of breeches for him, each ell 9s; [total:] 38s 3d.

Item to lyne þis doublet and breikis foure elnis and ane quartar fyne quhite fusteane þe elne viij s summa—xxxiiij s

Item, to line this doublet and breeches, 4¼ ells of fine white fustian, each ell 8s; total: 34s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 321

Item to be schankis to þir hois thre quartaris vter fyne þe elne xxx s—xx s

Item, to be legs for these hose, ¾ ell of utterfine, each ell 30s; [total:] 20s.51

Item half ane elne canves to stent his doublet—ij s

Item, ½ ell of canvas to stiffen his doublet, 2s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s viij d

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s 8d.

Item thre ds silk poynttis—vij s

Item, 36 silk points, 7s.

Item vj quartaris ribbanys to be him ane belt—ix s

Item, 1½ ells of ribbons to be a belt for him, 9s.

Item to arche dewar for making of his coit—viij s

Item, to Archie Dewar for making of his coat, 8s.

Item for making of his breikis hois and doublett—viij s [527]

Item, for making of his breeches, hose and doublet, 8s.

March 1549/50 Item vj pair of gluffis send to his graces sone In Dumfermling—ix s [534]

Item, 6 pairs of gloves sent to his grace’s son in Dunfermline, 9s.

May 1550

 51

Item vj elnis reid dalmes to be my lord gouernoures tua sonnys coittis and breikis now in maii pce of þe elne xxxvj s—x li xv s

Item, 6 ells of red damask to be my lord governor’s two sons’ coats and breeches, now in May, price of each ell 36s; [total:] £10 15s.52

Item vij elnis quhite fusteane to lyne þir coittis and breikis þe elne vj s—xlij s

Item, 7 ells of white fustian to line these coats and breeches, each ell 6s; [total:] 42s.

Item to be schankis to þir breikis quartar & half quartar scarlott—xviij s ix d

Item, to be legs to these breeches, ⅜ ell of scarlet, 18s 9d.

Item ane elne canves to be stenting to þair doublettis price—iij s iiij d

Item, an ell of canvas to be stiffening to their doublets, price 3s 4d.

Item tua ds reid buttonis to þir coittis—vj s

Item, 24 red buttons for these coats, 6s.

Item ane quartar vnce silk till sew þame wt—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce silk to sew them with, 2s.

The total should be 22s 6d. The total should be £10 16s.

 52

322

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item v ds poynttis to thair claytis—x s

Item, 60 points for their clothes, 10s.

Item vij elnis small lynnyng to be sarkis to his graces sone Dauid þe elne iiij s—xxviij s

Item, 7 ells of fine linen to be shirts for his grace’s son David, each ell 4s; [total:] 28s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar holland clay t to be nekis and ruffis to þis sarkis—vij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of Holland cloth to be necks and ruffs for these shirts, 7s 6d.

Item for making of þir sarkis—xiiij s

Item, for making of these shirts, 14s.

Item ane bow and ane dosoun arres to him—xxiiij s

Item, a bow and a dozen arrows for him, 24s.

Item brais and schuting glufe to him—v s vj d

Item, a brace and shooting glove for him, 5s 6d.

…

…

Item tua elnis taffat reid to be belt and gartanis to thame þe elne xvj s—xxxij s [556]

Item, 2 ells of red taffeta to be belt and garters for them, each ell 16s; [total:] 32s.

Item thre elnis taffate growgrane to be his graces vþir sone dauid ane goune þe elne xlvj s—vj li xviij s [557]

Item, 3 ells of grosgrain taffeta to be a gown for his grace’s other son David, each ell 46s; total: £6 18s. [This may be a mourning gown, as it follows mourning gowns for the Regent and David’s brother Claude.]

Item to be schone to his graces tua sonnys ane elne of blak weluot—iij li x s [558]

Item, to be shoes for his grace’s two sons, an ell of black velvet, £3 10s.

Item thre quarterris bukrame to his graces sone dauid sokis—iij s ix d [581]

Item, ¾ ell of buckram for his grace’s son David’s socks, 3s 9d.

Item to ane boy direct to Dumfermling wt sarkis bow and arrowes to Dauid my lord gouernoures sone—iij s [590]

Item, to a boy traveling directly to Dunfermline with shirts, bow, and arrows for David, my lord governor’s son, 3s.

July 1550 Item x elnis and ane half lynnyng clathe deliuerit to Besse mwrray to be sarkis to his graces sone Dauid price of þe elne iij s vj d Summa—xxx s vij d

 53

The total should be 36s 9d.

Item, 10½ ells of linen cloth delivered to Bessie Murray to be shirts for his grace’s son David, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 30s 7d.53



Men and B oys of the Co urt 323

Item half ane elne hollande claith to be rwffis to þe craiggis and handes of þir sarkis—x s

Item, ½ ell of Holland cloth to be ruffs for the necks and wrists of these shirts, 10s.

Item ane elne of scarlat to be schankes of hois to him—l s

Item, an ell of scarlet to be legs of hose for him, 50s.

Item tua elnis hollande claith to be naipkynnes to him—xxxij s [598]

Item, 2 ells of Holland cloth to be handkerchiefs for him, 32s.

August 1550 Item to be tua pair of schankes of hois to his graces sone Dauid thre quarterris scarlat price of þe elne l s Summa—xxxvij s vj d [607]

Item, to be two pairs of legs of hose for his grace’s son David, ¾ ell of scarlet, price of each ell 50s; total: 37s 6d.

February 1550/51 Item viijo februarii coft to be ane coit to my lord governouris son Dauid vj quarteris fyne franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, February 8th, bought to be a coat for my lord governor’s son David, 1½ ells of fine French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item to bordour þis coit ane elne and half quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—iiij li iiij s iiij d ob.

Item, to border this coat, 1⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £4 4s 4½d.

Item ane vnce and ane half steiking silk to it price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ounces of sewing silk for it, price of each ounce 9s; total: 13s 6d.

Item twa elnis lynyng gray to it price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of lining gray for it, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item for buttonis to it—iij s

Item, for buttons for it, 3s.

Item coft to lyne ane coit of veluet to him þe veluet gottin out of my lord governouris wardrop twa elnis gray price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, bought to line a coat of velvet for him, the velvet gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe, 2 ells of gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item for buttonis to þis coit—iij s

Item, for buttons for this coat, 3s.

Item ane vnce of silk to þis coit—ix s [633]

Item, an ounce of silk for this coat, 9s.

32 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item coft to be ane dowblet to him vij quarteris fyne blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li x s

Item, bought to be a doublet for him, 1¾ ells of fine black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £3 10s.

Item tobe him ane vthir dowblet twa elnis blak fustiane price of þe elne ix s Summa— xviij s

Item, to be another doublet for him, 2 ells of black fustian, price of each ell 9s; total: 18s.

Item to lyne þir twa dowblettis iiij elnis quhite fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, to line these two doublets, 4 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 24s.

Item to stent þir dowblettis v quarteris of canves price of þe elne ij s vj d Summa—iij s j d ob

Item, to stiffen these doublets, 1¼ ells of canvas, price of each ell 2s 6d; total: 3s 1½d.

Item twa dosane of buttonis to thir dowblettis price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for these doublets, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item tobe him hois ane elne of blak stemmyng of myllane price þairof—xl s

Item, to be hose for him, an ell of black stemming of Milan, price thereof 40s.

Item thre quarteris taffite of þe cord to geit and nerf þir hois price þairof—xiij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of taffeta of the cord to band and trim these hose, price thereof 13s 6d.

Item to lyne þir hois quarter and half quarter scottis blak price þairof—ix s

Item, to line these hose, ⅜ ell of Scottish black, price thereof 9s.

Item tobe him ane vthir pair of hois wt twa pair of schankis ane elne of gray stemmyng of myllane price þairof—xl s

Item, to be another pair of hose for him, with two pairs of legs, an ell of gray stemming of Milan, price thereof 40s.

Item to lyne þir hois half ane elne Inglis stemmyng price þairof—vij s

Item, to line these hose, ½ ell of English stemming, price thereof 7s.

Item v quarteris of taffiteis to þir hois price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of taffeta for these hose, price of each ell 14s; total: 17s 6d.

Item to sew þir hois and dowblettis ane vnce of silk price þairof—ix s

Item, to sew these hose and doublets, an ounce of silk, price thereof 9s.

Item to Archibald Dewar for making of þir coittis dowblettis and hois—xxxiij s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of these coats, doublets, and hose, 33s.

Item coft ane veluet bonet to him price þairof—xliiij s

Item, bought a velvet bonnet for him, price thereof 44s.

Item ane claith bonet price—xiiij s [634]

Item, a cloth bonnet, price 14s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 325

Item twa dosane silk poyntis to my lord governouris son dauid price of þe dosane ij s vj d Summa—v s

Item, 24 silk points for my lord governor’s son David, price of each dozen 2s 6d; total: 5s.

Item to be him belt and gartanis thre elnis rubane silk price of þe elne vj s Summa— xviij s [636]

Item, to be belt and garters for him, 3 ells of ribbon silk, price of each ell 6s; total: 18s.

Item xiijo februarii coft to turs lord dauidis clathis in to dunfermling v quarteris canves price of þe elne ij s Summa—ij s vj d

Item, February 13th, bought to carry lord David’s clothes in to Dunfermline, 1¼ ells of canvas, price of each ell 2s.; total: 2s 6d.

Item to ane boy þat bure þame to dunfermling—iij s [643]

Item, to a boy that bore them to Dunfermline, 3s.

October 1551 Item fyve elnis lylis wirsett deliuerit to þe said archebald tobe ane ny t gowne to my lord gouernouris sone dauid price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—iij li x s

Item, 5 ells of Lille worsted, delivered to the said Archibald to be a night gown for my lord governor’s son David, price of each ell 14s; total: £3 10s.

Item half ane elne of welwett to walt þe samyn price þairof xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to trim the same, price thereof 35s.

Item bukcrame to þe samyn—ij s

Item, buckram for the same, 2s.

Item to Johnne craig furreour for furring of þe samyn—l s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the same, 50s.

Item thre quarteris gray stemmyng of myllane tobe hym hois price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxx s

Item, ¾ ell of gray stemming of Milan to be hose for him, price of each ell 40s; total: 30s.

Item thre quarteris gray taffiteis to lyne and nerve þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xij s

Item, ¾ ell of gray taffeta to line and trim the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 12s.

Item for clayth to lyne þe samyn hois witht—v s

Item, for cloth to line the same hose with, 5s.

Item ane dosane of poynttis price þairof— ij s

Item, 12 points, price thereof 2s.

Item to archebald deware for making of þis gowne and hois—x s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of this gown and hose, 10s.

326

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item fyve quarteris canves to turs þame to dumfermling price þairof—iij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to carry them to Dunfermline, price thereof 3s 9d.

Item ane kays of camys send to hym witht þir claithis price þairof v s [651]

Item, a case of combs sent to him with these clothes, price thereof 5s.

Item vltimo octobris to ane boy direct to dumfermling wt ane nyt gowne and certane vþir clething to my lord gouernouris sone dauid—iij s [656]

Item, the last day of October, to a boy traveling directly to Dunfermline with a night gown and certain other clothing for my lord governor’s son David, 3s.

December 1551 Item secundo decembris deliuerit to archebald deware tobe tway pair of hois to my lord gouernouris sone dauid fyve quarteris stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne ­x xxviij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, December 2nd, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 38s; total: 47s 6d.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis to lyne and nerf þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—­ xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line and trim these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item half ane elne of Inglis blak to lyne þame with price þairof—xv s

Item, ½ ell of English black to line them with, price thereof 15s.

Item for making of þe samin—viij s

Item, for making of the same, 8s.

Item to þe said archebald tobe ane cloik wt slevis to my lord gouernouris said sone tway elnis and ane half quarter fyne blak of þe seile of rowane price of þe elne iij li v s Summa—vj li xviij s j d ob

Item, to the said Archibald to be a cloak with sleeves for my lord governor’s said son, 2⅛ ells fine black of the seal of Rouen, price of each ell £3 5s; total: £6 18s 1½d.

Item to bordour þe samin v quarteris blak welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— iiij li vij s vj d

Item, to border the same, 1¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe bordouris of þe samin—xiiij s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the borders of the same, 14s.

Item ane dosane lang stalkit buttonis put on þe slevis of þe samyn price þairof—vij s

Item, 12 long-shanked buttons put on the sleeves of the same, price thereof, 7s.

Item for making of þe samyn—x s

Item, for making of the same, 10s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 327

Item ane welwett hatt to hyme price of þe samin—xxxviij s

Item, a velvet hat for him, price of the same, 38s.

Item ane elne of rownd canwes to pak þir clathis in price—ij s vj d [666]

Item, an ell of heavy canvas to pack these clothes in, price 2s 6d.

Item ane boy send to dumfermling witht clatis to my lord gouernouris sone dauid and his wage—v s

Item, a boy sent to Dunfermline with clothes for my lord governor’s son David, and his wage, 5s.

…

…

Item xvjto decembris ane boy send to dumfermling wt ane spanȝe cloik and certane vþeris clathis to my lord gouernouris sone dauid and his wage—iij s [672]

Item, December 16th, a boy sent to Dunfermline with a Spanish cloak and certain other clothes to my lord governor’s son David, and his wage, 3s.

January 1551/52 Item penultimo Januarij deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe tway pair of hois to my lord gouernouris sone dauid v quarteris blak stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, the second to the last day of January, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David, 1¼ ells of black stemming of Milan, price of each ell 38s; total: 47s 6d.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis of þe four thredis to lyne and nerf þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of the four threads to line and trim the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item v quarteris gray stemmyng of myllane to be hym vþir tway pair of hois price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming of Milan to be him another two pairs of hose, price of each ell 38s; total: 47s 6d.

Item vij quarteris gray taffiteis to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 1¾ ells of gray taffeta to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 28s.

Item for claith to lyne þir foure pair of hois witht—xv s

Item, for cloth to line these four pairs of hose with, 15s.

Item for making of þe samyn—xij s

Item, for making of the same, 12s.

Item for ane litill bonett of claith to hyme— x s [678]

Item, for a little bonnet of cloth for him, 10s.

32 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item deliuerit to þe said andro ane coffer to keip his maisteris clathis in price þairof—iij li

Item, delivered to the said Andrew [Hamilton], a coffer to keep his master’s clothes in, price thereof £3.

Item for carying of þe samyn to dumfermling—iij s [684]

Item, for carrying of the same to Dunfermline, 3s.

February 1551/52 Item xijo februarii deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe coittis to my lord gouernouris sonnys dauid and claude thre elnis paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, February 12th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be coats for my lord governor’s sons, David and Claude, 3 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item tway elnis welwett to bordour þe samin price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe bordouris of þir coitis—xxiiij s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the borders of these coats, 24s.

Item tway elnis and ane half bukcrame to lyne þe bodyis and slevis of þir cotis price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s

Item, 2½ ells of buckram to line the bodies and sleeves of these coats, price of each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne þe talis of þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the hems of the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item foure dosane buttonis of welwett put on þir coittis price of þe dosane ij s Summa—viij s

Item, 48 buttons of velvet put on these coats, price of each dozen 2s; total: 8s.

Item archebald dewar for making of thir tway coitis and ane coit of figurate welwet to claude þe welwet and furnessing þairof gottin furt of my lord gouernouris garderobe—xxvj s [693]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of these two coats and a coat of figured velvet for Claude, the velvet and furnishings thereof gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, 26s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 329

April 1552 Item xiijo aprilis deliuerit to bessy murray tobe sarkis to my lord gouernouris sone dauid xij elnis bartane claitht price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, April 13th, delivered to Bessie Murray to be shirts for my lord governor’s son David, 12 ells Bretagne cloth, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item thre elne and ane quarter holand clayt to be ruffis and nekkis to þe samin and tobe hym napkynnis price of þe elne xj s Summa—xxxv s x d [705]

Item, 3¼ ells of Holland cloth to be ruffs and necks for the same and to be handkerchiefs for him, price of each ell 11s; total: 35s 10d.54

Item ane welwett bonett send to lynly tqw to my lord gouernouris sone dauid price þairof—xl s [707]

Item, a velvet bonnet sent to Linlithgow, to my lord governor’s son David, price thereof 40s.

June 1552

 54

Item Quarto Junij deliuerit to archebald dewar v quarteris and ane half quarter paris blak tobe ane coit to my lord gouernouris sone dauid price of þe elne xlij s Summa— lvij s ix d

Item, June 4th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1⅜ ells of Paris black to be a coat for my lord governor’s son David, price of each ell 42s; total: 57s 9d.

Item ane elne of welwett to bordour þe samyn price þairof—iiij li

Item, an ell of velvet to border the same, price thereof £4.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to putt on the bordouris of þis coit—xij s iij d

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the borders of this coat, 12s 3d.

Item for ane dosane of buttonis to þis coit price þairof—ij s

Item, for 12 buttons for this coat, price thereof 2s.

Item vj quarteris stemmyng of myllane tobe hyme tway paris of hois price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1½ ells of stemming of Milan to be two pairs of hose for him, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.55

Item tway elnis and ane half gray to lyne þir hois and coit price of þe elne v s Summa— xij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line these hose and coat, price of each ell 5s; total: 12s 6d.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis to lyne þir hois price þairof—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line these hose, price thereof 24s.

The total should be 35s 9d. The total should be 60s.

 55

33 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tway elnis fustiane tobe him ane dowblett price of þe elne ix s Summa— xviij s

Item, 2 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 18s.

Item stenting canves to It—xviij d

Item, stiffening canvas for it, 18d.

Item tway elnis lyning fustiane to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of lining fustian to line the same, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item thre dosane pointtis to hyme price of þe dosane ij s Summa—vj s

Item, 36 points for him, price of each dozen 2s; total: 6s.

Item for making of þis coit dowblet and tway paire of hois—xx s

Item, for making of this coat, doublet, and two pairs of hose, 20s.

Item for ane elne of grete canves to turs þir clathis in to hyme to dumfermling price þairof—ij s vj d

Item, for an ell of great canvas to carry these clothes in to him at Dunfermline, price thereof 2s 6d.

Item vj quarteris rybbane silk to be hyme ane belt price of þe elne v s Summa—vij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of ribbon silk to be a belt for him, price of each ell 5s; total: 7s 6d.

Item ane caise of camys to hyme price þairof—vj s viij d [726]

Item, a case of combs for him, price thereof 6s 8d.

Item vj paire send to dumfermling to his grace sone dauid price of þe pair xviij d Summa—ix s

Item, 6 pairs [of gloves] sent to Dunfermline to his grace’s son David, price of each pair 18d; total: 9s.

Item drynk siluer for þe samyn—xij d [728]

Item, drinksilver for the same, 12d. [This order also included six pairs for the Regent.]

August 1552 Item primo augusti deliuerit to archebald deware v quarteris of blak stemmyng of myllane tobe tway pair of hois to my lord gouernouris sone dauid in dumfermling price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xlv s

Item, August 1st, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1¼ ells of black stemming of Milan, to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David in Dunfermline, price of each ell 36s; total: 45s.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis of Janis to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of Genoa to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item for clayt to lyne þe samyn—vj s

Item, for cloth to line the same, 6s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 33 1

Item for making of þe samyn—viij s

Item, for making of the same, 8s.

Item ane welwett bonet send to hyme price þairof—xxxvj s [738]

Item, a velvet bonnet sent to him, price thereof 36s.

October 1552 Item deliuerit to archebald deware ane elne and ane half quarter reid armosy taffiteis to be ane dowblett to my lord gouernouris sone dauid price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xl s vj d

Item, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1⅛ ells of red armosene taffeta to be a doublet for my lord governor’s son David, price of each ell 36s; total: 40s 6d.

Item vj quarteris fyne blak satin to be hyme ane vþer dowblett price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of fine black satin to be another doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item vj quarteris stenting canves to þir dowblettis price of þe elne iij s Summa—iiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of stiffening canvas for these doublets, price of each ell 3s; total: 4s 6d.

Item thre elnis lynyng fustiane to þir twa dowblettis price of þe elne iij s vj d Summa—x s vj d

Item, 3 ells of lining fustian for these two doublets, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 10s 6d.

Item thre dosane buttonis to þir tway dowblettis price of þe dosane ij s Summa— vj s

Item, 36 buttons for these two doublets, price of each dozen 2s; total: 6s.

Item half ane vnce of silk to sew the samyn price þairof—iiij s vj d

Item, ½ ounce of silk to sew the same, price thereof 4s 6d.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter reid stemmyng of myllane to be hyme ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— xxij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of red stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: 22s 6d.

Item thre quarteris reid taffiteis to þir hois price þairof—xij s

Item, ¾ ell of red taffeta for these hose, price thereof 12s.

Item half ane elne half ane quartar blak stemmyng of myllane tobe hyme ane vþir pair of hois price of þe elne xl s Summa— xxv s

Item, ⅝ ell of black stemming of Milan to be another pair of hose for him, price of each ell 40s; total: 25s.

Item thre quarteris blak taffiteis to þir hois price þairof—xij s

Item, ¾ ell of black taffeta for these hose, price thereof 12s.

332

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Item for claytht to lyne þir tway pair of hois—x s

Item, for cloth to line these two pairs of hose, 10s.

Item to archebald dewar for making of þir hois and dowblettis—xvj s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of these hose and doublets, 16s.

Item to þe said archebald for making of ane coit of figurate welwett to hyme—vj s

Item, to the said Archibald for making of a coat of figured velvet for him, 6s.

Item ane welwett bonett send to dumfermling to hyme price þairof—xxxvj s

Item, a velvet bonnet sent to Dunfermline for him, price thereof 36s.

Item ane spunge to hyme price þairof—iiij s

Item, a sponge for him, price thereof 4s.

Item ane elne of canves to pak þir clathis tobe caryit to dumfermling price þairof— ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to pack these clothes to be carried to Dunfermline, price thereof 2s.

Item to ane boy that caryit þame þair—iij s [750]

Item, to a boy that carried them there, 3s.

December 1552 Item xxo Decembris ix elnis pasmentis of silk deliuerit to archiebald dewar to be put vpoun ane cote of my lorde gouernouris sone Dauid of fygurat welwote þe welwote gottin furth of my lorde gouernouris gairdrap þe elne xx d Summa—xv s

Item, December 20th, 9 ells of passementerie of silk delivered to Archibald Dewar to be put upon a coat of my lord governor’s son David of figured velvet, the velvet gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, each ell 20d; total: 15s.

Item thre quarteris and ane half quarter of ane vnce of pareis silk to þe same cote þe vnce viij s Summa—vij s

Item, ⅞ ounce of Paris silk for the same coat, each ounce 8s; total: 7s.

Item xviij buttonis to þe breist & slewis of þis cote of my lorde gouernouris sonnes—iij s

Item, 18 buttons for the breast and sleeves of this coat of my lord governor’s son’s, 3s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar bukrum to lyne þe slewis of þis cote price—ij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of buckram to line the sleeves of this coat, price 2s 6d.

Item ane elne of rounde canves to pak þe same—ij s iiij d [772]

Item, an ell of heavy canvas to pack the same, 2s 4d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 333

Item to Dauid stewart ane dosoune of pair of gluffis to his grace bairnis—xviij s

Item, to David Stewart, 12 pairs of gloves for his grace’s children, 18s.

Item ane pair of myttanis to his grace sone Dauid—iij s

Item, a pair of mittens for his grace’s son David, 3s.

Item in drinksyluer for þir gluffis—xviij d [774]

Item, in drinksilver for these gloves, 18d. [This order included five pairs for the Regent.]

February 1552/53 Item xijo februarii v quarteris stemmyng of myllane deliuerit to archiebald dewar to be tua pair of hois to my lorde gouernoures sone dauid þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, February 12th, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan delivered to Archibald Dewar to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 38s; total: 47s 6d.

Item vj quarteris taffateis of foure thredis to lyne þe samyn þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of four threads to line the same, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item for claith to lyne þir twa pair of hois— viij s

Item, for cloth to line these two pairs of hose, 8s.

Item v quarteris vnprest blak to be þe said dauid ane cote þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of unpressed black to be a coat for the said David, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item ane elne of welwote to bordoure þe same—iiij li

Item, an ell of velvet to border the same, £4.

Item ane vnce and ane quartar of ane vnce of cantelȝeis & silk to put on þe bordoures of þe same price of þe vnce viij s Summa— xs

Item, one and a quarter ounces of cantailyes and silk to put on the borders of the same, price of each ounce 8s; total: 10s.

Item v quarteris gray to lyne þis cote ­price—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of gray to line this coat, price 5s.

Item j ds and ane half buttonis to þe same—iij s

Item, 18 buttons for the same, 3s.

Item for making of þis cote and tua pair of hois—xiiij s [787]

Item, for making of this coat, and two pairs of hose, 14s.

Item to þe said andro for furnesing of schone and oþer small necessaris to his maister—iij li [790]

Item, to the said Andrew [Hamilton] for furnishing of shoes and other small necessities to his master, £3.

33 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

April 1553 Item v quartaris stemmyng of myllane to be tua pair of hois to my lorde gouernoures sone Dauid þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item vj quartaris taffateis to lyne þe samyn þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line the same, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item for claith to lyne þir tua pair of hois— viij s

Item, for cloth to line these two pairs of hose, 8s.

Item tua dosoun of pointtis to his hois þe dosoun ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 points for his hose, each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item to archiebald dewar for making of þir hois and cote—xiiij s

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of these hose and coat, 14s.

Item ane welwote hat to him—xl s

Item, a velvet hat for him, 40s.

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þir clathis in to Dumfermling—ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to carry these clothes in to Dunfermline, 2s.

Item ane boy to turs þe samyn þair—iij s [806]

Item, a boy to carry the same there, 3s.

Item viijo Aprilis deliuerrit to Elizabeth murray xij elnis bartane claith to be sarkis to my lorde gouernoures sone Dauid þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, April 8th, delivered to Elizabeth Murray, 12 ells of Bretagne cloth to be shirts for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item ane elne hollande claith to be ruffis & nekkis to þe same—xij s

Item, an ell of Holland cloth to be ruffs and necks for the same, 12s.

Item v quartaris pareis robanis to be him ane belt þe elne v s Summa—vj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of Paris ribbon to be a belt for him, each ell 5s; total: 6s 3d.

Item vij pair of gluffis to him price of þe pair xviij d Summa—x s vj d [807]

Item, 7 pairs of gloves for him, price of each pair 18d; total: 10s 6d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 33 5

May 1553

 56

Item vjto Maii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar xiiij elnis taffateis of growgrane to be tua gownis and tua cottis to my lorde gouernoures sonnes Dauid and Claude And to be ane doublat to his graces self. And to perfurnis ane goun and ane cote of growgrane gottin furthe of his graces gairdrap þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxx li xvj s

Item, May 6th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 14 ells of taffeta of grosgrain to be two gowns and two coats for my lord governor’s sons, David and Claude, and to be a doublet for his grace’s self, and to perform [decorate? enlarge?] a gown and a coat of grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s wardrobe, each ell 34s; total: £30 16s.56

Item vj quartaris welwote to wat dauid and Claudis gownis and cottis þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to trim David and Claude’s gowns and coats, each ell £4; total: £6.

Item foure elnis and ane half bukrum to lyne þe coittis and þe bordoures of þe gownis the elne iiij s Summa—xviij s

Item, 4½ ells of buckram to line the coats and borders of the gowns, each ell 4s; total: 18s.

Item iij ds buttonis to þe tua coittis the dosoun xx d Summa—v s

Item, 36 buttons for the two coats, each dozen 20d; total: 5s.

Item thre quartaris of ane vnce silk to sew þe tua gownis and twa coittis price—vj s

Item, ¾ ounce of silk to sew the two gowns and two coats, price 6s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for makyng of þame—xxx s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of them, 30s.

…

…

Item ixo Maii tua elnis canves deliuerit to Archiebald Dewar to turs my lorde gouernoures sonnes clathis Claudes & dauidis þe elne ij s Summa—iiij s [814]

Item, May 9th, 2 ells of canvas delivered to Archibald Dewar to carry my lord governor’s sons’ clothes, Claude’s and David’s, each ell 2s; total: 4s.

Item xxo maii ane boy send to Linly tqw and fra þine to hammiltoun wt clathis to my lorde gouernoures sounes Dauid and Claude—ix s vj d [815]

Item, May 20th, to a boy sent to Linlithgow and from thence to Hamilton with clothes for my lord governor’s sons David and Claude, 9s 6d.

The total should be £23 16s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s instead of 34s.

336

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

July 1553 Item viijo Julii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar v quarteris stemmyng of myllane to be tua pair of hois to my lord gouernoures sone Dauid þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xlv s

Item, July 8th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 36s; total: 45s.

Item vj quarteris taffate to lyne þame— xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line them, 24s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for making of thame—vj s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of them, 6s.

Item for claith to lyne þame—viij s vj d [820]

Item, for cloth to line them, 8s 6d.

August 1553 Item v quartaris vnprest blak deliuerit to þe said archiebald to be ane cote to my lorde gouernoures sone Dauid þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of unpressed black, delivered to the said Archibald to be a coat for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item ane elne welwote to bordour þe same—iiij li

Item, an ell of velvet to border the same, £4.

Item ane vnce and ane half sewing silk to put on þe bordoures þe vnce viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ounces of sewing silk to put on the borders, each ounce 8s; total: 12s.

Item v quartaris bukrum to lyne þis cote—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to line this coat, 5s.

Item j ds and ane half buttonis to put on þe samyn þe dosoun ij s Summa—iij s

Item, 18 buttons to put on the same, each dozen 2s; total: 3s.

Item v quartaris and ane half bombasye rais to be my lorde gouernoures sone dauid ane doublat þe elne xij s Summa—xvj s vj d

Item, 1⅜ ells of razed bombazine to be my lord governor’s son David a doublet, each ell 12s; total: 16s 6d.

Item tua elnis fustiane to lyne this doublat þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—vj s viij d

Item, 2 ells of fustian to line this doublet, each ell 3s 4d; total: 6s 8d.

Item for canves to stent þis doublat of my Lorde gouernoures sone Dauid—xviij d

Item, for canvas to stiffen this doublet of my lord governor’s son David, 18d.

Item iij dosoun of pointtis send to him þe dosoun xvj d Summa—iiij s

Item, 36 points sent to him, each dozen 16d; total: 4s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 337

Item ane welwote bonet to him—xxxiiij s

Item, a velvet bonnet for him, 34s.

Item ane fedder to it—ij s

Item, a feather for it, 2s.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þir clathis in to Dumfermling—ij s iiij d

Item, an ell of canvas to carry these clothes in to Dunfermline, 2s 4d.

Item to ane boy þt bure þame þair—iij s

Item, to a boy that bore them there, 3s.

Item to archiebald dewar for making of þis cote and doublat—xiij s [827]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of this coat and doublet, 13s.

Item vj pair of gluffis and ane schoting glufe to my lorde gouernoures sone Dauid price—x s [829]

Item, 6 pairs of gloves and a shooting glove for my lord governor’s son David, price 10s.

September 1553 Item vj quartaris hollande claith deliuerit to Jonet bell to be naipkynnes to my Lorde gouernoures sone Dauid þe elne viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ells of Holland cloth delivered to Janet Bell to be handkerchiefs for my lord governor’s son David, each ell 8s; total: 12s.

Item for sewing of þe said naipkynnes—iiij s [839]

Item, for sewing of the said handkerchiefs, 4s.

Claude Hamilton The Regent’s youngest son Claude was probably born in 154657 and was therefore not above seven or eight years of age at the end of the regency Accounts. Claude’s clothing was very similar to David’s, as they were close in age, and their clothes were often ordered together. The overall prevalence of white, red, and gray in addition to black in the wardrobes of all of the Regent’s sons raises the question of whether they were often dressed in the heraldic colors of the house of Hamilton. Because David and Claude were present in Scotland throughout the regency, they received far more clothing than James and John, who left for France in 1548. March 1548/49 Item to dauid and claude my lord gouernoures tua ȝoungest sonnes tua bonettis price—lvij s [453]

 57

Hamilton, History, 31.

Item, to David and Claude, my lord governor’s two youngest sons, two bonnets, price 57s.

33 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

April 1549 Item viijo Aprilis to Archibald dewar to sew þe sylwer pasmentis vpoun þe cotis of welwote of my lorde gouernoures ȝoungest sonnes Dauid and Claude þe welwote my lorde gouernoures awyn sex vnces quhite silk price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, April 8th, to Archibald Dewar to sew the silver passementerie upon the coats of velvet of my lord governor’s youngest sons David and Claude, the velvet my lord governor’s own, 6 ounces of white silk, price of each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item tua elnis and ane half gray to lyne þir cotis price of þe elne v s Summa—xij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line these coats, price of each ell 5s; total: 12s 6d.

Item an elne of braid reid to be þame hois—xxx s

Item, an ell of broad red to be hose for them, 30s.

Item tua elnis and ane half reid taffate armosene to be þame tua doublattis price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of red armosene taffeta to be two doublets for them, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item to stent þir doublattis ane elne of canves—iij s vj d

Item, to stiffen their doublets, an ell of canvas, 3s 6d.

Item thre elnis quhite fustiane to lyne þir doublattis price of þe elne vj s Summa— xviij s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line these doublets, price of each ell 6s; total: 18s.

Item tua bonettis of welwote to þame— iiij li x s

Item, two bonnets of velvet for them, £4 10s.

Item xvij elnis bartane claith to be sarkis to þame—iij li xiiij s

Item, 17 ells Bretagne cloth to be shirts for them, £3 14s.

Item vj quartaris hollande claith to be ruffis sychtis and nekkis to þir sarkis— xiiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of Holland cloth to be ruffs, scyes, and necks to these shirts, 14s 6d.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be brekis to þame price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be breeches for them, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item thre elnis quhyte fustiane to lyne þame—xv s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line them, 15s.

Item tua dosoun of sylkin pointtis to þame—iiij s [460]

Item, 24 silk points for them, 4s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 339

Item half ane elne reid stemmyng to be Claude my lorde gouernoures sone ane pair of schankis of hois price—vij s [462]

Item, ½ ell of red stemming to be a pair of legs of hose for Claude, my lord governor’s son, price 7s.

June 1549 Item to ane boy callit stewart to turs my lorde gouernoures ȝoungest sonnes clathis In to Linlithqw at his passing þair tua elnes canves—vj s [478]

Item, to a boy called Stewart to carry my lord governor’s youngest son’s [sons’?] clothes in to Linlithgow at his passing there, 2 ells canvas, 6s.

July 1549 Item siclike bocht at william kar tua bonettis to his graces tway sonnys dauid and gloud—v li

Item, similarly bought at William Kerr, two bonnets for his grace’s two sons, David and Claude, £5.

Item ane kais to þir bonnettis—iiij s [483]

Item, a case for these bonnets, 4s.

November 1549 Item vj quartaris of robane silk to be ane belt to his graces sone claude—ix s

Item, 1½ ells of ribbon silk to be a belt for his grace’s son Claude, 9s.

Item ane bonet to him boucht at James carmychaell—xxviij s

Item, a bonnet for him bought at James Carmichael, 28s.

Item foure pair of gluffis to him—viij s [508]

Item, four pairs of gloves for him, 8s.

December 1549 Item to be ane cote to my lorde gouernoures sone Claude tua elnis rowane russat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, to be a coat for my lord governor’s son Claude, 2 ells of Rouen russet, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item ane elne of blak welwote to bordoure þis cote—iij li xv s

Item, an ell of black velvet to border this coat, £3 15s.

Item tua elnis gray to it—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray for it, 9s.

Item ane dosoun of buttounes—iij s

Item, 12 buttons, 3s.

Item ane vnce of silk—x s [513]

Item, an ounce of silk, 10s.

3 40

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for making of my lordes sonnes cote—viij s

Item, for making of my lord’s son’s coat, 8s.

Item to Archibald dewarris seruandes In drinksiluer at my lordes commande—xxij s vj d [519]

Item, to Archibald Dewar’s servants in drinksilver at my lord’s command, 22s 6d.

Item to ane boy direct to Linlithqw to Claude my lorde gouernoures sone wt ane cote and other clathis—iij s [520]

Item, to a boy traveling directly to Linlithgow to Claude, my lord governor’s son, with a coat and other clothes, 3s.

April 1550 Item ane elne braid reid to be hois to my Lord gouernoures sone in linlythgw—xxx s [543]

Item, an ell of broad red to be hose for my lord governor’s son in Linlithgow, 30s.

Item v quartaris gray to lyne ane coit of weluot to my lord gouernoures ȝoungest sone claud the weluot his graces awin—v s vij d ob [544]

Item, 1¼ ells of gray to line a coat of velvet for my lord governor’s youngest son Claude, the velvet his grace’s own, 5s 7½d.

May 1550

 58

Item vj elnis reid dalmes to be my lord gouernoures tua sonnys coittis and breikis now in maii pce of þe elne xxxvj s—x li xv s

Item, 6 ells of red damask to be my lord governor’s two sons’ coats and breeches, now in May, price of each ell 36s; [total:] £10 15s.58

Item vij elnis quhite fusteane to lyne þir coittis and breikis þe elne vj s—xlij s

Item, 7 ells of white fustian to line these coats and breeches, each ell 6s; [total:] 42s.

Item to be schankis to þir breikis quartar & half quartar scarlott—xviij s ix d

Item, to be legs to these breeches, ⅜ ell of scarlet, 18s 9d.

Item ane elne canves to be stenting to þair doublettis price—iij s iiij d

Item, an ell of canvas to be stiffening to their doublets, price 3s 4d.

Item tua ds reid buttonis to þir coittis—vj s

Item, 24 red buttons for these coats, 6s.

Item ane quartar vnce silk till sew þame wt—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce silk to sew them with, 2s.

Item v ds poynttis to thair claytis—x s

Item, 60 points for their clothes, 10s.

The total should be £10 16s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 4 1

…

…

Item tua elnis taffat reid to be belt and gartanis to thame þe elne xvj s—xxxij s [556]

Item, 2 ells of red taffeta to be belt and garters for them, each ell 16s; [total:] 32s.

Item to be schone to his graces tua sonnys ane elne of blak weluot—iij li x s [558]

Item, to be shoes for his grace’s two sons, an ell of black velvet, £3 10s.

Item at quenys graces cuming to linly tqw þe tyme of hir dule to be ane goun to my /l/ gouernoures sone claud vþir foure elnis and half ane quartar of taffate of growgrane blak price of þe elne xlvj s smma—vij li x s x li vij s [557]

Item, at the queen’s grace’s coming to Linlithgow at the time of her mourning, to be a gown for my lord governor’s son Claude, another 4⅛ ells of black grosgrain taffeta, price of each ell 46s; total: £10 7s.59

October 1551

 59

Item xvjto octobris deliuerit to archebald deware tobe ane coit to my lord gouernouris sone claude fyve quarteris paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, October sixteenth, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a coat for my lord governor’s son Claude, 1¼ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item thre quarteris and ane half welwett to bordour þe samin price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—iij li xv d

Item, ⅞ ell of velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £3 0s 15d.

Item sevyne quarteris gray to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—viij s ix d

Item, 1¾ ells of gray to line the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 8s 9d.

Item for sewing silk cantailȝeis and buttonis to þis coit—xiiij s

Item, for sewing silk, cantailyes, and buttons for this coat, 14s.

Item for making of þe said coit becaus it had fyve cantailȝeis on ilk bordoure—x s [650]

Item, for making of the said coat, because it had five cantailyes on each border, 10s.

Item ane boy send to lynly tqw wt ane coit to Clawde my lord gouernouris sone and tway gownis to lady anne and his wage— iij s [655]

Item, a boy sent to Linlithgow with a coat for Claude, my lord governor’s son, and two gowns for Lady Anne, and his wage, 3s.

The total should be £9 9s 9d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 4½ rather than 4⅛.

3 4 2

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

February 1551/52 Item xijo februarii deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe coittis to my lord gouernouris sonnys dauid and claude thre elnis paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, February 12th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be coats for my lord governor’s sons, David and Claude, 3 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item tway elnis welwett to bordour þe samin price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk to put on þe bordouris of þir coitis—xxiiij s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk to put on the borders of these coats, 24s.

Item tway elnis and ane half bukcrame to lyne þe bodyis and slevis of þir cotis price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s

Item, 2½ ells of buckram to line the bodies and sleeves of these coats, price of each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne þe talis of þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the hems of the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item foure dosane buttonis of welwett put on þir coittis price of þe dosane ij s Summa—viij s

Item, 48 buttons of velvet, put on these coats, price of each dozen 2s; total: 8s.

Item archebald dewar for making of thir tway coitis and ane coit of figurate welwet to claude þe welwet and furnessing þairof gottin furt of my lord gouernouris garderobe—xxvj s

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of these two coats and a coat of figured velvet for Claude, the velvet and furnishings thereof gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, 26s.

Item deliuerit to þe said archebald fyve quarteris stemmyng of myllane tobe tway paris of hois to my lord gouernouris sone claude price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— xlv s

Item, delivered to the said Archibald, 1¼ ells of stemming of Milan to be two pairs of hose for my lord governor’s son Claude, price of each ell 36s; total: 45s.

Item vj quarteris taffiteis to lyne þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item half ane elne half ane quarter inglis blak to lyne þe samyn price þairof—xvij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of English black to line the same, price thereof 17s 6d.

Item tway dosane pointtis to þir hois price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 points for these hose, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item tway elnis fustiane tobe hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne viij s Summa— xvj s

Item, 2 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 43

Item tway elnis lyning fustiane to þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of lining fustian for the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item half ane elne of canves to stent þe samyn price þairof—xviij d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to stiffen the same, price thereof, 18d.

Item for making of þir hois and dowblet— x s [693]

Item, for making of these hose and doublet, 10s.

September 1552 Item xo septembris deliuerit to archebald deware ane elne and ane half spanȝe freis tobe ane cloik to my lord gouernouris sone Claude price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa— lvij s

Item, September 10th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 1½ ells Spanish frieze, to be a cloak for my lord governor’s son Claude, price of each ell 38s; total: 57s.

Item ane elne and ane half quarter paris blak to be hyme ane coit price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xlvij s iij d

Item, 1⅛ ells of Paris black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 42s; total: 47s 3d.

Item vj quarteris blak welwett to bordour þis coit and tobe hyme theis of hois price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, 1½ ells of black velvet to border this coat, and to be thighs of hose for him, price of each ell £4; total: £6.

Item for cantailȝeis and sewing silk put on þe bordouris of þis coit and theis of hois—x s

Item, for cantailyes and sewing silk put on the borders of this coat and thighs of hose, 10s.

Item for ane dosane and ane half welwett buttonis to þis coit price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iij s

Item, for 18 velvet buttons for this coat, price of each dozen 2s; total: 3s.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item half ane elne of stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to his hois price þairof—xx s

Item, ½ ell of stemming of Milan to be legs for his hose, price thereof 20s.

Item ane welwett bonet to hyme price þairof—xxxvj s

Item, a velvet bonnet for him, price thereof 36s.

Item ane spunge price þairof—iij s

Item, a sponge, price thereof 3s.

Item ane elne of canves to pak þir clathis in to turs þame to lynlytqw—ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to pack these clothes in to carry them to Linlithgow, 2s.

Item to archebald dewar for making of þis cloik coit and hois—xx s [744]

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of this cloak, coat, and hose, 20s.

3 4 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item xxvjo septembris ane boy send to lynlithqw witht clathis to my lord gouernour sone claude and his wage—iij s [749]

Item, September 26th, a boy sent to Linlithgow with clothes for my lord governor’s son Claude, and his wage, 3s.

November 1552 Item vj paris of gluvis send to lynly tqw to my lord gouernouris sone claude price þairof—ix s [759]

Item, 6 pairs of gloves sent to Linlithgow for my lord governor’s son Claude, price thereof 9s.

April 1553 Item quarto aprilis fyve quartarres fyne vnprest blak deliuerrit to Archiebald dewar to be ane cote to my lorde gouernoures sone Claude þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, April 4th, 1¼ ells of fine unpressed black delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a coat for my lord governor’s son Claude, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item ane elne of welwote to bordoure þe same—iiij li

Item, an ell of velvet to border the same, £4.

Item ane vnce and ane half of silk to put on þe bordoures of þis cote þe vnce viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ounces of silk to put on the borders of this coat, each ounce 8s; total: 12s.

Item v quartarres gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 5s.

Item ane dosoun and ane half buttonis to þis cote þe dosoun ij s Summa—iij s [805]

Item, 18 buttons for this coat, each dozen 2s; total: 3s.

May 1553

 60

Item vjto Maii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar xiiij elnis taffateis of growgrane to be tua gownis and tua cottis to my lorde gouernoures sonnes Dauid and Claude And to be ane doublat to his graces self. And to perfurnis ane goun and ane cote of growgrane gottin furthe of his graces gairdrap þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxx li xvj s

Item, May 6th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 14 ells of taffeta of grosgrain to be two gowns and two coats for my lord governor’s sons, David and Claude, and to be a doublet for his grace’s self, and to perform [decorate? enlarge?] a gown and a coat of grosgrain gotten forth from his grace’s wardrobe, each ell 34s; total: £30 16s.60

Item vj quartaris welwote to wat dauid and Claudis gownis and cottis þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to trim David and Claude’s gowns and coats, each ell £4; total: £6.

The total should be £23 16s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s instead of 34s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 45

Item foure elnis and ane half bukrum to lyne þe coittis and þe bordoures of þe gownis the elne iiij s Summa—xviij s

Item, 4½ ells of buckram to line the coats and borders of the gowns, each ell 4s; total: 18s.

Item iij ds buttonis to þe tua coittis the dosoun xx d Summa—v s

Item, 36 buttons for the two coats, each dozen 20d; total: 5s.

Item thre quartaris of ane vnce silk to sew þe tua gownis and twa coittis price—vj s

Item, ¾ ounce of silk to sew the two gowns and two coats, price 6s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for makyng of þame—xxx s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of them, 30s.

…

…

Item ixo Maii tua elnis canves deliuerit to Archiebald Dewar to turs my lorde gouernoures sonnes clathis Claudes & dauidis þe elne ij s Summa—iiij s [814]

Item, May 9th, 2 ells of canvas delivered to Archibald Dewar to carry my lord governor’s sons’ clothes, Claude’s and David’s, each ell 2s; total: 4s.

Item xxo maii ane boy send to Linly tqw and fra þine to hammiltoun wt clathis to my lorde gouernoures sounes Dauid and Claude—ix s vj d [815]

Item, May 20th, to a boy sent to Linlithgow and from thence to Hamilton with clothes for my lord governor’s sons David and Claude, 9s 6d.

SON-IN-L AW Alexander Gordon, Lord Gordon, Heir to the Earl of Huntley Alexander was married to Barbara, the Regent’s eldest daughter, by November 1548. His entries in the Accounts begin after their wedding, and he was included in the Hamilton household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Clothing granted to him was comparable to that of others in the immediate family, with a good percentage of silk items and two furlined gowns. He seems to have been fond of fancy headgear, as he received a velvet hat and two velvet bonnets, one of which had the distinction of bearing the only decorative aglets in the regency Accounts. He died in late 1552. In the second line item for Alexander, he was given a lining of “lufflirttis” for a gown. In another entry later in this same volume, there is a reference to luserttis, which Paul identifies as being the same as lufflirttis.61 Luserttis was clearly a fur, and as the lufflirttis entry follows two others for fur, it was likely the same type of thing. Luzard (alternatively lusart, lusard,

 61

Although it is possible that Alexander’s entry in the manuscript actually reads “lusslirttis,” it looks more like “lufflirttis.”

3 46

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

or luserd) was a word used in England for lynx fur,62 and luserttis and lufflirttis could be Scottish renderings of that term.63 February 1548/49 Item ane elne of quhite stemmyng to be schankes to my lorde gordounes hois of quhite welwote—xvj s [438]

Item, an ell of white stemming to be legs for my lord Gordon’s hose of white velvet, 16s.

Item for lynnyng of ane goun of crammosye welwote to my lorde gordoun wt lufflirttis—xxiiij s [443]

Item, for lining of a gown of crimson velvet for my lord Gordon with lynx furs, 24s.

March 1548/49

 62

Item to James barroun for ane bonet of welwote to my lorde gordoun—xl s

Item, to James Barroun for a bonnet of velvet for my lord Gordon, 40s.

Item for robanis to þe hornis of gold put vpoun þe same bonet—iij s [459]

Item, for ribbons for the horns of gold put upon the same bonnet, 3s.

Item xvjto Maii be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande eftir þe incuming of wourde In scotlande of þe deces of þe quenis father to be a dule cote and ane cloke to my lorde gordoun foure elnis stemmet of myllane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—viij li xvj s

Item, May 16th, by my lord governor’s special command, after the incoming of word in Scotland of the decease of the queen’s father, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for my lord Gordon, 4 ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: £8 16s.

Item to be ane pair of hois to my lorde gordoun thre quartaris and ane half of þe same stemmyng þe elne xliiij s Summa—xxxviij s vj d

Item, to be a pair of hose for my lord Gordon, ⅞ ell of the same stemming, each ell 44s; total: 38s 6d.

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

Item to lyne his hois ane elne taffate of þe corde—xx s

Item, to line his hose, an ell of corded taffeta, 20s.

Item tua elnis bukrame to his cote—x s [560]

Item, 2 ells of buckram for his coat, 10s.

For an example, see Hayward, “Dressed to Rule,” 96. OED, s.v. “lusard.” “Lusert” and “lufflirt” would have been the singular constructions. The doubling of the final letter and addition of “is” to the end was one way of making words plural in the Scottish dialect.

 63



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 47

February 1550/51 Item be his grace spetiale command coft to be ane nicht govne to my lord gordoune xj elnis chamlott of turky price of þe elne xv s Summa—viij li v s

Item, by his grace’s special command, bought to be a night gown for my lord Gordon, 11 ells of camlet of Turkey, price of each ell 15s; total: £8 5s.

Item to watt þis govne half ane elne blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa— xxxvj s

Item, to trim this gown, ½ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 36s.

Item to Johnne craig furrour for furring of this govne with cunyngis—vj li

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this gown with rabbit, £6.

Item for ane elne of bukrame to this govne—iiij s vj d

Item, for an ell of buckram for this gown, 4s 6d.

Item coft tobe him ane coit and cloke v elnis franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, bought to be a coat and cloak for him, 5 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item to geit þis coit and cloke vij quarteris blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li x s

Item, to trim this coat and cloak, 1¾ ells of black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £3 10s.

Item foure vnce steiking silk to þis coit and cloke price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 4 ounces of sewing silk for this coat and cloak, price of each ounce 9s; total: 36s.

Item to lyne this coit twa elnis and ane quarter bukrame price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—x s j d ob

Item, to line this coat, 2¼ ells of buckram, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 10s 1½d.

Item tobe him ane dowblet xj quarteris blak fustiane price of þe elne ix s Summa— xxiiij s ix d

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2¾ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item tobe him ane vthir dowblet xj quarteris fyne blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, to be another doublet for him, 2¾ ells of fine black satin, price of each ell 40; total: £5 10s.

Item tobe stokkis of hois to him ane elne blak veluet price þairof—iij li xij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for him, an ell of black velvet, price thereof £3 12s.

Item tobe schankis to thir hois ane elne blak stemmyng of myllane price þairof—xl s

Item, to be legs for these hose, an ell of black stemming of Milan, price thereof 40s.

348

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Item v quarteris taffiteis of foure thredis to thir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xx s

Item, 1¼ ells of taffeta of four threads for these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 20s.

Item tobe schone to him half ane elne blak veluet price þairof—xxxvj s

Item, to be shoes for him, ½ ell of black velvet, price thereof 36s.

Item tobe hois to him vj quarteris quhite stemmyng price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxiiij s

Item, to be hose for him, 1½ ells of white stemming, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item to lyne þir hois ane elne of quhite taffeteis of þe cord price—xviij s

Item, to line these hose, an ell of white taffeta of the cord, price 18s.

Item mair to be him hois twa elnis stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li

Item, also to be hose for him, 2 ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 40s; total: £4.

Item ane elne blak taffiteis of þe cord price—xviij s

Item, an ell of black taffeta of the cord, price 18s.

Item ane veluett hatt to him price þairof— xl s

Item, a velvet hat for him, price thereof, 40s.

Item ane veluet bonet to him price—xl s

Item, a velvet bonnet for him, price 40s.

Item ane claith bonet price—xiiij s

Item, a cloth bonnet, price 14s.

Item tobe him ane vthir dowblet vij quarteris bombasy rais price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxiij s vj d

Item, to be another doublet for him, 1¾ ells of razed bombazine, price of each ell 14s; total: 23s 6d.64

Item to Maister James garintuly seruitour to my lord gordoun to pay for lynyng making and vthir small necessaris to thir claithis— vij li xij s iiij d [639]

Item, to Master James Garintuly, servant to my lord Gordon, to pay for lining, making and other small necessities for these clothes, £7 12s 4d.

Item coft tobe sokkis to my lord gordoune v quarteris reid Inglis stemmyng price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xx s [647]

Item, bought to be socks for my lord Gordon, 1¼ ells of red English stemming, price of each ell 16s; total: 20s.

The total should be 24s 6d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 49

NEPHE WS Master of Argyll This was probably Archibald Campbell, later fifth Earl of Argyll, who was about ten years old at the time of his first grant.65 His mother Helen was the Regent’s full sister,66 and he seems to have spent some time with Arran and his family. Despite his youth, Archibald was dressed in full formal sets of gown, coat, doublet, and hose. His clothing was quite expensive and on par with the best that his cousins received. December 1548 Item to arche dewar tailȝeour as ane tiket at þe fute of his compt beris for making of my lord gouernoures sonnys claytis and claytis of þe maister of argilis—viij li v s [424]

Item, to Archie Dewar, tailor, as a ticket at the end of his account shows, for making of my lord governor’s son’s clothes and clothes of the Master of Argyll’s, £8 5s.

April 1549

 65

Item ixo Aprilis þe maister of Argyle being wt my lorde gouernour at his graces commande ix elnis armosene taffateis blak to be him ane goun cote and doublat price of þe elne xl s Summa—xviij li

Item, April 9th, the Master of Argyll being with my lord governor, at his grace’s command, 9 ells of black armosene taffeta to be a gown, coat, and doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £18.

Item tuelf elnis gray sating to be him ane other goun cote and doublat price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxv li iiij s

Item, 12 ells of gray satin to be another gown, coat, and doublet for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £25 4s.

Item v quartaris gray welwote to be stokis of hois to him price of þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, 1¼ ells of gray velvet to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell £4; total: £5.

Item thre quartaris and ane half gray stemmyng of myllane to be schankis to þir hois—xxxviij s vj d

Item, ⅞ ell of gray stemming of Milan to be legs to these hose, 38s 6d.

Item v quartaris blak welwote to be him ane other pair stokis of hois þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to be another pair of stocks of hose for him, each ell £4; total: £5.

Item thre quartaris and ane half stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois—xxxviij s vj d

Item, ⅞ ell of stemming to be legs for these hose, 38s 6d.

Paul, Peerage, 1:340. Ibid., 1:339.

 66

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Item thre quartaris reid armosene taffateis to eik furth ane doublat to him—xxx s

Item, ¾ ell of red armosene taffeta to enlarge a doublet for him, 30s.

Item tua elnis and ane half blak and gray taffateis to lyne þe said maister of Argylis clathis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of black and gray taffeta to line the said Master of Argyll’s clothes, price of each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item v quartaris gray sating to lyne þe sychtis of his sating goun price—lvij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray satin to line the scyes of his satin gown, price 57s 9d.

Item tua elnis thre quartaris blak welwote to bordoure his goun and cote of blak taffate price of þe elne iij li Summa—viij li v s

Item, 2¾ ells of black velvet to border his gown and coat of black taffeta, price of each ell £3; total: £8 5s.

Item half ane elne of welwote to be him tua pair of schone—xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be two pairs of shoes for him, 35s.

Item to lyne his tua doublattis foure elnis and ane half lyning fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxvij s

Item, to line his two doublets, 4½ ells of lining fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 27s.

Item thre vnce of sylk to steik his clathis— xviij s

Item, 3 ounces of silk to sew his clothes, 18s.

Item tua elnis blew to lyne þe tane of his cotis gottin at Jhonne Dougall—xiiij s

Item, 2 ells of blue to line the one of his coats, gotten at John Dougal, 14s.

Item thre elnis gray to þe other cote price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 3 ells of gray for the other coat, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 13s 6d.

Item tua elnis bukrame to his gownnes—ix s

Item, 2 ells of buckram for his gowns, 9s.

Item foure ds of buttonis to þir clathis—ix s iiij d

Item, 48 buttons for these clothes, 9s 4d.

Item lyning to þir hois—xxij s [464]

Item, lining for these hose, 22s.

April 1550 Item to Jhonn dougall þat wes restand awand him for thre elnis blak gray tua elnis blew and tua elnis bukrem to þe maister of argylis claytis—xxxij s vj d [547]

Item, to John Dougal that was still owed him for 3 ells of black gray, 2 ells of blue, and 2 ells of buckram for the Master of Argyll’s clothes, 32s 6d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 5 1

James Hamilton This James Hamilton was the eldest legitimate son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s half-brother). He received quite a few clothes in his minority, comparable to and generally exceeding the amounts given to the Regent’s sons. He clearly had other sources for clothing, however, as shown by the relative paucity of necessities like shirts given to him in these Accounts. Although he had not yet attained his title, he was not a child. At least one grant in 1543 was for money so that he might buy himself clothes, and in the next month he was given a jack, implying that he was expected on the battlefield. Several other items imply an active life: a gray riding coat, riding shirts, and white riding hose as well as two pairs of boots, a set of spurs, and a saddle. He also seems to have had a preference for leather coats, receiving four in the space of three years. He was not lacking in clothes for nicer occasions, however. A solid core of doublets, coats, cloaks, and hose of some cheaper and some good-quality wools gradually gave way to more satins and velvets as he got older. Several items were decorated; one cloak had wool passementerie, which would not have been so unusual at the time but which does not appear anywhere else in the regency Accounts. One doublet was slashed to show a decorative taffeta lining, and a pair of white hose were slashed to allow for yellow pullings-out. In May 1548 he attained his majority and was confirmed in his possession of Avendale and Crawfurdjohn.67 After this he was styled in the Accounts as “James Hamilton of Avendale” and was given few further grants. These last gifts consisted mostly of purple velvet coats, stocks of hose, and a doublet to match, perhaps an indication of what the Regent considered appropriate for a young man taking up his title. Strangely, this did not include a formal gown. James did not receive a single gown, despite the volume of other grants. Summaries of James’ wardrobe follow the transcriptions and translations. April 1543

 67

In the first the secund day of aprile deliuerit to be ane dowblat to James hammiltoune sone to vmqll schir James hammiltoune of fynnert knyt twa elnis blak sating, price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

First, the second day of April, delivered to be a doublet for James Hamilton, son to the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart, knight, 2 ells of black satin, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item deliuerit to be him ane vþer dowblet, twa elnis quarter blak fustiane, price of þe elne viij s Summa—xviij s

Item, delivered to be another doublet for him, 2¼ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: 18s.

Item deliuerit to be him ane coit and cloke four elnis thre quarteris blak freis, price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—viij li iij s vj d

Item, delivered to be a coat and cloak for him, 4¾ ells of black frieze, price of each ell 32s; total: £8 3s 6d.68

Hamilton, History, 274. The total should be £7 12s.

 68

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Item deliuerit to be him ane pair of hois ½ elne ½ quarter vterisfyne, price þairof— xvij s vj d

Item, delivered to be a pair of hose for him, ⅝ ell of utterfine, price thereof 17s 6d.

Item deliuerit to draw þe samin wt vj qrterris teffites, price of þe elne xv s Summa— xxij s vj d

Item, delivered to draw [forth] the same with, 1½ ells taffeta, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item deliuerit to be him ane vþer pair of hois ane elne ½ quarter scottis quhite, price—vij s x d obolus

Item, delivered to be another pair of hose for him, 1⅛ ells of Scottish white, price 7s 10½d.

Item gevin to malcolm gourlaw for lynyngis & stenting furnesit be him to þe hois and dowblet and coit foresaid and making of þe samin and his cloke as his compt beres— xxxiiij s [32]

Item, given to Malcolm Gourlay for linings and stiffening furnished by him for the hose and doublet and coat aforesaid and making of the same and his cloak, as his account bears out, 34s.

October 1543 Item þe xvj day of october be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to James hammiltoun ane of þe sonnis of vmqle shr James hammiltoun to by him self certane clathis contenit in þe said precept—xvj li [51]

Item, the 16th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, one of the sons of the late Sir James Hamilton, to buy himself certain clothes contained in the said precept, £16.

November 1543 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris spetiall command for ane Jak to James hammiltoun ser James sonne—xxxviij s ix d

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s special command, for a jack for James Hamilton, Sir James’ son, 38s 9d.

…

…

Item þe xxjj day of nouember be my lord gouernoris spetiall command deliuerit to James hammiltoun ser James sonne to by him schone wt other necessaris—xij s [61]

Item, the 22nd day of November, by my lord governor’s special command,delivered to James Hamilton, Sir James’ son, to buy himself shoes and other necessities, 12s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 5 3

December 1543

 69

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command coft tua elnis and ane Quarter freis to be ane cloke to James hammiltonis sonn and heir to vmqle ser James hammiltoun price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—[iij li iij s]

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought 2¼ ells of frieze to be a cloak for James Hamilton, son and heir to the late Sir James Hamilton, price of each ell 28s; total: [£3 3s.]69

Item ix elnis pasmentis to þe said cloke pryce of þe elne ij s Summa—[xviij s]

Item, 9 ells of passementerie for the said cloak, price of each ell 2s; total: [18s.]

Item tua elnis thre quarteris Dunde gray to be him ane ryding cote pryce of þe elne xij s Summa—[xxxiij s]

Item, 2¾ ells of Dundee gray to be a riding coat for him, price of each ell 12s; total: [33s.]

…

…

Item for foure elnis gray boucht to lyne þe fore said cote of James hammiltonis price of þe elne ij s Summa—viij s

Item, for 4 ells of gray, bought to line the aforesaid coat of James Hamilton’s, price of each ell 2s; total: 8s.

Item thre quarteris rissillis blak to be him ane pair of hois pryce—xxiiij s

Item, ¾ ell of Lille70 black, to be a pair of hose for him, price 24s.

Item half ane elne of scottis blak to lyne þe samyn hois—ix s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line the same hose, 9s.

Item ix quarteris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa— xxs iij d

Item, 2¼ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 20s 3d.

Item for stenting and lynnyng to þe samyn doublat—iij s vj d

Item, for stiffening and lining for the same doublet, 3s 6d.

Item for tua dosoun of pointtis to him—iij s

Item, for 24 points for him, 3s.

Item for ane blak bonet to him—xv s

Item, for a black bonnet for him, 15s.

Item for ane colour de roy bonet—iiij s iij d

Item, for a color de roy bonnet, 4s 3d.

Item for making of þir foresaid clathis—xij s [67]

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, 12s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and the right-hand edge is missing. These totals are easily calculated, however, and they appear in Paul’s transcription.  70 Rijsel is the Dutch name for the city of Lille.

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January 1543/44 Item for ane pair schone to James hammyltoune—ij s [70]

Item, for a pair of shoes for James Hamilton, 2s.

February 1543/44 Item þe xij day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall cmand to James hammiltoun ane of þe sonnis of vmqle ser James hammiltoun quhom god assolȝe tua elnis freis price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iij li xvj s

Item, the 12th day of February by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, one of the sons of the late Sir James Hamilton, whom God absolve, 2 ells of frieze, price of each ell 38s; total: £3 16s.

Item in þe samyn precept to be þe said James ane pair of hois half ane elne and half ane quarter vterris fyne price þairof—xxij s vj d

Item, in the same precept, to be a pair of hose for the said James, ⅝ ell of utterfine, price thereof 22s 6d.

Item half ane elne scottis blak to lyne þe said hois price þairof—x s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black, to line the said hose, price thereof 10s.

Item ix quarteris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne viij s Summa— xviij s

Item, 2¼ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 18s.

Item for lynnyng stenting and making of þis doublat—xj s

Item, for lining, stiffening, and making of this doublet, 11s.

Item for making of his hois and schering of þame—ij s iiijd

Item, for making of his hose and shearing of them, 2s 4d.

…

…

Item þe samyn day for ane bonet to him his awin beand tynt—xxiiij s [72]

Item, the same day, for a bonnet for him, his own being lost, 24s.

March 1543/44 Item þe samyn day be his gracis spetiall command to James hammiltoun sonne and air of vmqle ser James hammiltoun to by him ane pair of buittis and ane sadill—xxij s iiij d [77]

Item, the same day by his grace’s special command, to James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, to buy himself a pair of boots and a saddle, 22s 4d.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 5 5

April 1544 Item þe samyn day to James hammiltoun sonn and air to ser James hammiltoun be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command boucht tua elnis and ane quarter fyne freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li xvj s vj d

Item, the same day, to James Hamilton, son and heir to Sir James Hamilton, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought 2¼ ells of fine frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 16s 6d.

Item x elnis and ane half pasmentis of silk to þe said cloke price of þe elne ij s ij d Summa—xxij s ix d

Item, 10½ ells of passementerie of silk for the said cloak, price of each ell 2s 2d; total: 22s 9d.

Item be þe samyn precept ix quarteris fustiane to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xviij s

Item by the same precept, 2¼ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 18s.

Item vj quarteris surriche gray to be him ane pair of hois wt twa pair of schankis price of þe elne xix s Summa—xxviij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of Surrey? gray to be a pair of hose with two pairs of legs for him, price of each ell 19s; total: 28s 6d.

Item for tua skynnis to be him ane cote price thairof—xxiiij s

Item, for two skins to be a coat for him, price thereof 24s.

Item tua elnis ane quarter franche gray to be him tua pair of hois pryce of þe elne xij s Summa—xxvij s

Item, 2¼ ells of French gray to be two pairs of hose for him, price of each ell 12s; total: 27s.

Item for making of þe saiddis clathis and lynnyng to þame—xiij s [82]

Item, for making of the said clothes and lining for them, 13s.

May 1544

 71

Item þe xxv day of maii be my lord gouernoris spetial command boucht in Linlithqw x elnis and ane half lynnyng claith to be ryding sarkis to James hammiltoun price of þe elne xxd Summa—xvij s [vj d]

Item, the 25th day of May by my lord governor’s special command, bought in Linlithgow, 10½ ells of linen cloth to be riding shirts for James Hamilton, price of each ell 20d; total: 17s [6d.]71

Item x elnis and ane half smallar claith to be him other thre sarkis price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxj s vj d [85]

Item, 10½ ells of finer cloth to be three other shirts for him, price of each ell 3s; total: 31s 6d.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and the right-hand edge is missing. This total is easily calculated, however, and it appears in Paul’s transcription.

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July 1544 Item þe viij day of Julii be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to James hammiltoun ane blak bonet—xxiiij s

Item, the 8th day of July by my lord governor’s special command, for James Hamilton, a black bonnet, 24s.

Item be þe samyn precept boucht to him fyve quarteris and half and ane nale surriche gray to be him ane pair of hois wt þe lynnyngis price thairof—xxv s x d

Item, by the same precept, bought for him 17⁄16 ell of Surrey? gray to be a pair of hose for him, with the linings, price thereof 25s 10d.

Item for making of þir hois—ij s

Item, for making of these hose, 2s.

…

…

Item be my lord gouernouris spetiall command to james hammyltoun sone and air of vmqle ser james hammyltoune ij elnis & ane half blak fusteane to be him doublett pce of þe elne viij s sa—xx s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, for James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, 2½ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item ane elne of vter fyne to be him hois pce—xxxij s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for him, price 32s.

Item tua elnis of taffate to lyne þame pce— xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to line them, price 32s.

Item iij quarteris & ane half surreche gray to be him hois pce þairof xv s

Item, ⅞ ell of Surrey? gray to be hose for him, price thereof 15s.

Item for lyning to þir doublettis & hois & making of þame—xxij s [88]

Item, for lining to these doublets and hose and making of them, 22s.

October 1544

 72

72 be my lord gouernoris [precept and spetiall] command boucht to be ane pe to James [hammiltoun] ser James sonn tua elnis thre quarteris ne price of þe elne xij s vj d Summa—xxxiiij s iiij d

by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought to be a cloak for James [Hamilton], Sir James’ son, 2¾ ells of ne, price of each ell 12s 6d; total: 34s 4d.73

Item v quarteris quhyte to be him ane pair of ryding hois price of þe elne vij s vj d Summa—ix s iiij d

Item, 1¼ ells of white to be a pair of riding hose for him, price of each ell 7s 6d; total: 9s 4d.74

Part of this page is missing. The total should be 34s 4½d.  74 The total should be 9s 4½d.  73



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 57

Item for lynnyng to þame—iij s

Item, for lining for them, 3s.

Item xiiij elnis pasmentis of worsat to þis pe pryce of þe elne vj d Summa—vij s

Item, 14 ells of passementerie of worsted for this cloak, price of each ell 6d; total: 7s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne vij s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 7s; total: 17s 6d.

Item for lynnyng and stenting to þis doublat—vj s

Item, for lining and stiffening for this doublet, 6s.

Item for vj buttonis of silk to þis doublat— xviij d

Item, for 6 buttons of silk for this doublet, 18d.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item tua elnis freis to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item thre elnis and ane half gray to lyne þis cote price of þe elne ij s viij d Summa—ix s iiij d

Item, 3½ ells of gray to line this coat, price of each ell 2s 8d; total: 9s 4d.

Item thre quarteris of blak to be him ane pair of hois price þairof—xxvij s

Item, ¾ ell of black to be a pair of hose for him, price thereof 27s.

Item half ane elne of scottis blak to lyne þir hois price—ix s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line these hose, price 9s.

Item for making of þir foresaid clathis—xij s iij d [94]

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, 12s 3d.

November 1544 Item þe xxiiij d[ay of November be my lord gouer]noris command to James [hamiltoun?] Schir 75 [to] by him ane pair of buttis and spurris— [100]

Item, the 24th d[ay of November by my lord gover]nor’s command, to James [Hamilton?] Sir [to] buy himself a pair of boots and spurs,

February 1544/45 Item þe xxij day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to malcolm gourlaw for certane clathis maid be him to James hammiltoun sr James sonn—xxvij s [116]

 75

Part of this page is missing.

Item, the 22nd day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Malcolm Gourlay for certain clothes made by him for James Hamilton, Sir James’s son, 27s.

3 5 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

March 1544/45 Item þe xxiij day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis brother sonn James hammiltoun foure elnis thre quarteris freis to be him cote and cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li x s

Item, the 23rd day of March, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s brother’s son, James Hamilton, 4¾ ells of frieze to be a coat and cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £9 10s.

Item ane elne of blak to be him ane pair of hois price thairof—xxviij s

Item, an ell of black to be a pair of hose for him, price thereof 28s.

Item half ane elne of scottis blak to lyne þe samyn price—viij s [125]

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line the same, price 8s.

April 1545

 76

Item þe xxv day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command deliuerit to James hammiltoun sr James sonn thre quarteris and ane half blak to be him ane pair of hois price—xxviij s

Item, the 25th day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to James Hamilton, Sir James’ son, ⅞ ell of black, to be a pair of hose for him, price 28s.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe said hois price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price 32s.

Item for lynnyng of þame—iij s

Item, for lining of them, 3s.

Item for tua skynnis to be him ane coit 76

Item, for two skins to be a coat for him,

Item tua elnis and ane half fustian to be [him ane] doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—[xxij s vj d]

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; [total: 22s 6d.]

Item for lynnyng and stenting to it—

Item, for lining and stiffening for it,

Item v quarteris quhyte to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne vij s Summa—[viij s ix d]

Item, 1¼ ells of white to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 7s; total: [8s 9d.]

Item to malcom gourlay for making of þe saidis clathis— [135]

Item, to Malcolm Gourlay for making of the said clothes,

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of this page is missing. Paul’s transcription includes totals from the missing areas (one of which is incorrect), but he omits several line items.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 3 59

July 1545 Item þe xxviij day of Julij be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis brother sonn and air James hammiltoun to by him ane Jak—xxxiiij s [155]

Item, the 28th day of July, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s brother’s son and heir, James Hamilton, to buy him a jack, 34s.

August 1545

 77

77

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to James hammiltoun air to Schir James and ane half fyne spanȝe freis to be him ane cloke price of the elne xl s Summa—

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for James, heir to Sir James ½ ells of fine Spanish frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total:

Item to be him ane doublat xj quarteris blak satyne? price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s [6 d]

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2¾ ells of black satin?, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s [6d].

Item thre quarterris vterris fyne to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, ¾ ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 24s.

Item tua elnis of taffate to lyne þe samyn and be gartanis price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to line the same, and be garters, price of each ell 14s; total: 28s.

Item be þe samyn precept boucht to him tua elnis and ane half of canves to be him ane doublat lynint wt þe self price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s

Item, by the same precept, bought for him 2½ ells of canvas to be a self-lined doublet for him, price of each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item v quarteris of quhyte and ane half to be him ane pair of hois cuttit out price of þe elne vij s Summa—ix s viij d

Item, 1⅜ ells of white to be him a pair of slashed hose, price of each ell 7s; total: 9s 8d.78

Item tua elnis ȝallo taffate to draw out þe said hois and be him garttanis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of yellow taffeta to draw out the said hose and be garters for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xxiiij s

Item, a bonnet for him, price 24s.

Item for lynnyng stenting of þe said hois and doublat and making of all þe foresaid clathis—xxxij s [158]

Item, for lining, stiffening of the said hose and doublet and making of all the aforesaid clothes, 32s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of this page is missing. The total should be 9s 7½d.

 78

36 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

December 1545 Item þe xxiiij day of December be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command boucht tua elnis thre quarteris blak sating to be ane doublat to James hammiltoun, sonn and air of vmqle Schir James hammiltoun etc price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

Item, the 24th day of December, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought 2¾ ells of black satin to be a doublet for James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, etc., price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Item thre quarteris blak to be him hois price—xxiiij s

Item, ¾ ell of black to be hose for him, price 24s.

Item vj quarteris taffate to draw þame furth wt price—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to draw them forth with, price 24s.

Item for lynnyng to þame—vj s

Item, for lining for them, 6s.

Item for xj quarteris fustiane to lyne his doublat—xiij s ix d

Item, for 2¾ ells of fustian to line his doublet, 13s 9d.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 34s.

Item tua fyne spanȝe skynnis to be him ane coit pce of þe pece xxxij s summa—iij li iiij s

Item, two fine Spanish skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 32s; total: £3 4s.

[Item] [and ane h]alf of freis to be him ane cloke price of þe [elne] xxxij s Summa—iiij? li iiij s

Item, ½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £4? 4s.79

Item tua elnis grene? to be him cote price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of green? to be a coat for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xiiij s [172]

Item, for making of these clothes, 14s.

February 1545/46 Item þe x day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to James hammyltoun soun and air of vmqle Schir James Hammiltoun xj quarteris elnis paris blak to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

 79

Item, the 10th day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, 2¾ ells of Paris black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of this page is missing. Paul transcribes this as 2½ ells of frieze at 32s each for a total of £4 4s. However, that amount at that price leads to a total of £4. This may be a clerical error, as 2½ ells was a very common amount of frieze for making a cloak.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 361

Item xiij elnis pasmentis to þe said cote price of þe elne ij s summa—xxvj s

Item, 13 ells of passementerie for the said coat, price of each ell 2s; total: 26s.

Item ij elnis iij quarteris welwot to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—ix li xij s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £9 12s 6d.

Item vj quarteris blak to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—liiij s

Item, 1½ ells of black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fusteane to be ane doublet pce—xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet, price 20s.

Item fywe quarteris gray to be him ane pair of hois & iij quarteris ½, to lyne þame, þe elne xiiij s summa—xxix s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray to be a pair of hose for him, and ⅞ ell to line them, each ell 14s; total: 29s 9d.

Item tua elnis gray taffate to draw furtht þir hois þe price of þe elne xvij s vj d Summa xxxv s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to draw forth these hose, the price of each ell 17s 6d; total: 35s.

Item tua dosane silk poynttis iiij s

Item, 24 silk points, 4s.

Item for lynnyng and stenting of þe said doublattis þe lyning of reid carsay,—xxx s

Item, for lining and stiffening of the said doublets, the lining of red kersey, 30s.

Item for lynyng of þe said cote and buttonis to it—xvij s iij d [192]

Item, for lining of the said coat and buttons for it, 17s 3d.

October 1546

 80

Item þe samyn day be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to James hammiltoun sone and air of vmqle Schir James hammiltoun foure elnis & ane half of freis to be him ane cote and ane cloke price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vij li xiiij s

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, 4½ ells of frieze to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £7 14s.80

Item thre elnis gray to lyne þe said cote þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—x s

Item, 3 ells of gray to line the said coat, each ell 3s 4d; total: 10s.

Item tua elnis & ane half sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iiij li v s

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £4 5s.

The total should be £7 13s.

362

 81

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua elnis taffate quhairvpoun þe said doublat was cuttit oute price of þe elne x s Summa—xx s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta whereupon the said doublet was cut out, price of each ell 10s; total: 20s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to lyne þe said doublat þe elne iij s Summa—viij s iij d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to line the said doublet, each ell 3s; total: 8s 3d.81

Item for stenting to it—ij s

Item, for stiffening for it, 2s.

Item þe samyn day tua elnis fyne purpure welwote to be ane pair of stokes of hois to þe said James þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, the same day, 2 ells of fine purple velvet to be a pair of stocks of hose for the said James, each ell £4; total: £8.

Item thre quartaris & a half of blak stemyng to be schankis to þe said hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—xxxviij s vj d

Item, ⅞ ell of black stemming to be legs for the said hose, each ell 44s; total: 38s 6d.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe said hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item to lyne þe said hois iij quartaris reid price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxj s

Item, to line the said hose, ¾ ell of red, price of each ell 28s; total: 21s.

Item be þe samyn precept deliuerit to þe said James vj quartaris gray stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s

Item, by the same precept delivered to the said James, 1½ ells of gray stemming to be a pair of hose for him, each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item tua elnis gray taffate to draw furth þe said hois þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to draw forth the said hose, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for lyning to þir hois—iiij s

Item, for lining for these hose, 4s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to be him ane doublat þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item for lyning & stenting to þe said doublat—viij s

Item, for lining and stiffening for the said doublet, 8s.

Item to him ane fyne blak bonet lynit with welwote—xxvj s

Item, a fine black bonnet lined with velvet for him, 26s.

Item tua dosoun of pointtis—iiij s

Item, 24 points, 4s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xxij s [231]

Item, for making of these clothes, 22s.

The total should be 7s 6d. The total given would be correct if the amount of fabric were 2¾ ells rather than 2½.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 363

February 1546/47 Item, at his graces commande for making of Schir James sone & airris hois of tannye welwote doublat of fustiane & lyning of þame—xvj s [270]

Item, at his grace’s command, for making of Sir James’ son and heir’s hose of tawny velvet, doublet of fustian, and lining of them, 16s.

March 1546/47

 82

Item þe samyn day be his graces precept to his brother sone James hammiltoun ten quartarres purpure sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, the same day, by his grace’s precept, to his brother’s son, James Hamilton, 2½ ells of purple satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item to lyne þis doublat x quartaris fustiane price of þe elne v s Summa—xij s vj d

Item, to line this doublet 2½ ells of fustian, price of each ell 5s; total: 12s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat price—ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, price 2s.

Item tua elnis welwote to stok his hois price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of velvet to stock his hose, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item to lyne þir hois thre quartaris and ane half reid price—viij s

Item, to line these hose ⅞ ell of red, price 8s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þame price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for them, price 32s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half stemmyng to be schankes to þame price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xxxviij s viij d

Item, ⅞ ell of stemming to be legs to them, price of each ell 44s; total: 38s 8d.82

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote price—iij li

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price £3.

Item vj quartaris gray stemmyng to be him hois price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 1½ ells of gray stemming to be hose for him, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item ane elne of blak gray to lyne þir hois price of þe samyn—iiij s

Item, an ell of black gray to line these hose, price of the same, 4s.

Item tua elnis taffate to lyne þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to line these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

The total should be 38s 6d.

364

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item foure elnis and ane half of freis to be him cloke and cote price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—viij li ij s

Item, 4½ ells of frieze to be a cloak and coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £8 2s.

Item thre elnis gray to lyne þe bodyes of þis cote and slevis price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of gray to line the bodies of this coat and sleeves, price of each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xxxiiij s [289]

Item, for making of these clothes, 34s.

April 1547

 83

Item be my lord gouernoures spetiall commande foure elnis thre quartaris tannye welwote to be ane doublat and cote and theis of hois to James hammiltoun sone and air of vmqle Schir James hammiltoun price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xvj li xij s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, 4¾ ells of tawny velvet to be a coat and thighs of hose for James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir John Hamilton, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £16 12s 6d.

Item tua mareky skynnes to be him ane cote price of þe pece xv s Summa—xxx s

Item, two goatskins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 15s; total: 30s.

Item tua elnis gray taffateis to draw furth ane pair of hois to þe said James—xxxvj s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to draw forth a pair of hose for the said James, 36s.

Item thre quartaris vterfyne to be him hois—xxij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of utterfine to be hose for him, 22s 6d.

Item ane blak bonet—xxvj s viij d

Item, a black bonnet, 26s 8d.

Item thre elnis and ane half blak freis to be him ane cloke and ane cote þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xj s

Item, 3½ ells of black frieze to be a cloak and a coat for him, each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.83

Item ane elne of ryssillis blak to be him ane other pair of hois—xxxiiij s

Item, an ell of Lille84 black to be another pair of hose for him, 34s.

Item tua elnis blak taffateis to draw furth þir hois price of þe elne xviij s Summa— xxxvj s [301]

Item, 2 ells of black taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 18s; total: 36s.

The total should be £6 13s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 4½ rather than 3½.  84 Rijsel is the Dutch name for the city of Lille.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 36 5

June 1547 Item for ane bonet to Schir James sone his awyn tynt—xxvj s [312]

Item, for a bonnet for Sir James’s son, his own being lost, 26s.

July 1547 Item þe xxj day of Julii be my lorde gouernourres precept and spetiall commande boucht fra williame kerres wyf And gevin to James hammiltoun sone and air of wmqle Schir James hammiltoun x elnis and ane half of gray welwote to be him ane cote and ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxxvj li xv s

Item, the 21st day of July, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought from William Kerr’s wife and given to James Hamilton, son and heir of the late Sir James Hamilton, 10½ ells of gray velvet to be a coat and a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £36 15s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to lyne þis doublat price of þe elne vj s Summa— xv s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to line this doublet, price of each ell 6s; total: 15s.

Item tua elnis and ane half of freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iiij li v s

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £4 5s.

Item ane elne vnprest blak to be schankes to his hois price—xl s

Item, an ell of unpressed black to be legs for his hose, price 40s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þe said hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for the said hose, 32s.

Item for lynyng to þir hois—viij s [320]

Item, for lining for these hose, 8s.

August 1547 Item be my lorde gouernouris precept and spetiall commande to James hammiltoun his graces brother sone tua elnis welwote to be him stokes of hois price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s son, 2 ells of velvet to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane elne of reid to lyne þe said hois price—xiiij s

Item, an ell of red to line the said hose, price 14s.

36 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item be þe samyn precept vj quartarres gray stemmyng to be him ane other pair of hois price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, by the same precept, 1½ ells of gray stemming to be another pair of hose for him, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane elne of gray to lyne þir hois price—v s

Item, an ell of gray to line these hose, price 5s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þame price—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for them, price 32s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half pareis blak to be schankes to his welwote hois price—xxvij s

Item, ⅞ ell of Paris black to be legs for his velvet hose, price 27s.

Item x quartaris sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item […] lynyng fustiane to þis doublat & stenting price—xiiij s

Item, […] lining fustian for this doublet and stiffening, price 14s.

Item to Alexander robesoun tailȝeoure for making of þir clathis—xxij s [327]

Item, to Alexander Robertson, tailor, for making of these clothes, 22s.

May 1548: James had recently attained his majority and been confirmed in his possession of Avendale and Crawfurdjohn.

 85

Item xixo Maij be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces brother sone James hammiltoun of Avindale to be him ane cote doublat and stokis of hois nyne elnis purpure welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxxvj li

Item, May 19th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s brother’s son, James Hamilton of Avendale, to be a coat, doublet, and stocks of hose for him, 9 ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £36.

Item tua elnis and ane half of freis to be him ane cote price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item ane bonet to him—xxviij s [379]

Item, a bonnet for him, 28s.

Item thre elnis ane half and half ane quartar purpure welwote to be ane cote agane witsounday to Schir James hammiltoun of avendale price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xv li

Item, 3⅝ ells of purple velvet to be a coat for Whitsunday for Sir James Hamilton of Avendale, price of each ell £4; total: £15.85

Item vj quartaris purpure welwote to be him stokis of hois price—vj li [382]

Item, 1½ ells of purple velvet to be stocks of hose for him, price £6.

The total should be £14 10s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 3¾ rather than 3⅝.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 367

James Hamilton, Son of the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s Half-brother): Wardrobe Summaries Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary April 1543 doublet (black satin, with stiffening, lined) [32] doublet (black fustian, with stiffening, lined) [32] coat (black frieze, lined) [32] cloak (black frieze) [32] hose (utterfine drawn forth with taffeta, lined) [32] hose (Scottish white, lined) [32] October 1543 certain clothes [51] November 1543 jack [61] shoes and other necessities [61] December 1543 cloak (frieze, trimmed with passementerie) [67] riding coat (Dundee gray, lined with gray) [67] hose (Lille black, lined with Scottish black) [67] doublet (black fustian, stiffened and lined) [67] 24 points [67] bonnet (black) [67] bonnet (color de roy) [67] January 1543/44 pair of shoes [70] February 1543/44 2 ells frieze [72] hose (utterfine, sheared, lined with Scottish black) [72] doublet (fustian,with stiffening, lined) [72] bonnet [72]

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March 1543/44 pair of boots [77] April 1544 cloak (fine frieze, trimmed with passementerie) [82] doublet (fustian, lined) [82] hose with two pairs of legs (Surrey? gray, lined) [82] coat (leather) [82] two pairs of hose (French gray, lined) [82] May 1544 riding shirts (linen) [85] three other shirts (finer cloth) [85] July 1544 bonnet (black) [88] pair of hose (Surrey? gray, lined) [88] doublet (black fustian, lined) [88] hose (utterfine, lined with taffeta) [88] hose (Surrey? gray, lined) [88] October 1544 cloak (fustian, trimmed with passementerie of worsted) [94] riding hose (white, lined) [94] doublet (fustian, with stiffening, lined, with 6 silk buttons) [94] bonnet [94] coat (frieze, lined with gray) [94] hose (black, lined with Scottish black) [94] November 1544 pair of boots [100] February 1544/45 certain clothes [116] March 1544/45 coat (frieze) [125] cloak (frieze) [125] pair of hose (black, lined with Scottish black) [125] April 1545 pair of hose (black, drawn forth with taffeta, lined) [135] coat (leather) [135] doublet (fustian, with stiffening, lined) [135]



Men and B oys of the Co urt 36 9

pair of hose (white) [135] July 1545 jack [155] August 1545 cloak (fine Spanish frieze) [158] doublet (black satin) [158] hose (utterfine, lined with taffeta) [158] garters (taffeta) [158] doublet (canvas, with stiffening, lined with the same canvas) [158] hose (white, pinked or slashed, drawn forth with yellow taffeta, lined) [158] garters (yellow taffeta) [158] bonnet [158] December 1545 doublet (black satin, lined with fustian) [172] hose (black, drawn forth with taffeta, lined) [172] bonnet [172] coat (fine Spanish leather) [172] cloak (frieze) [172] coat (green?) [172] February 1545/46 coat (Paris black, trimmed with passementerie, lined, with buttons) [192] doublet (velvet, with stiffening, lined with red kersey) [192] hose (black, drawn forth with taffeta) [192] doublet (fustian, with stiffening, lined with red kersey) [192] hose (gray, lined with gray, drawn forth with gray taffeta) [192] 24 silk points [192) October 1546 coat (frieze, lined with gray) [231] cloak (frieze) [231] doublet (pinked or slashed satin, with a decorative lining of taffeta, stiffening, lined with fustian) [231] stocks of hose (fine purple velvet, drawn forth with taffeta, lined with red) [231] legs for these hose (black stemming) [231] hose (gray stemming, drawn forth with gray taffeta, lined) [231] doublet (fustian, with stiffening, lined) [231] fine bonnet (black, lined with velvet) [231] 24 points [231]

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February 1546/47 hose (tawny velvet, lined) [270] doublet (fustian, lined) [270] March 1546/47 doublet (purple satin, lined with fustian, stiffened with canvas) [289] stocks of hose (velvet, lined with red, drawn forth? with taffeta) [289] legs for these hose (stemming) [289] coat (leather) [289] hose (gray stemming, lined with black gray and taffeta) [289] coat (frieze, lined in the bodies and sleeves with gray) [289] cloak (frieze) [289] April 1547 coat (tawny velvet) [301] thighs of hose (tawny velvet) [301] coat (goatskin) [301] taffeta to draw forth a pair of hose (gray) [301] hose (utterfine) [301] bonnet (black) [301] coat (black frieze) [301] cloak (black frieze) [301] hose (Lille, drawn forth with black taffeta) [301] June 1547 bonnet [312] July 1547 coat (gray velvet) [320] doublet (gray velvet, lined with fustian) [320] cloak (frieze) [320] hose (drawn forth? with taffeta, lined) [320] legs of hose (unpressed black) [320] August 1547 stocks of hose (velvet, drawn forth? with taffeta, lined with red) [327] legs for these hose (Paris black) [327] hose (gray stemming, lined with gray, drawn forth? with taffeta) [327] doublet (satin, with stiffening, lined with fustian) [327] May 1548 coat (purple velvet) [379] doublet (purple velvet) [379] stocks of hose (purple velvet) [379]



Men and B oys of the Co urt 37 1

coat (frieze) [379] bonnet [379] coat (purple velvet) [382] stocks of hose (purple velvet) [382]

Summary by Category Coats riding coat [67] frieze coats [32, 94, 125, 231, 289, 301, 379] leather coats [82, 135, 172, 289, 301] velvet coats [301, 320, 379, 382] other coats [172, 192] Cloaks frieze cloaks [32, 67, 82, 125, 158, 172, 231, 289, 301, 320] fustian cloak [94] Doublets satin doublets [32, 158, 172, 231, 289, 327] fustian doublets [32, 67, 72, 82, 88, 94, 135, 192, 231, 270] velvet doublets [192, 320, 379] canvas doublet [158] Jacks [61, 155] Hose riding hose [94] utterfine hose [32, 72, 88, 158, 301] gray hose [82, 88, 192, 301] black hose [67, 94, 125, 135, 172, 192, 301] white hose [32, 135, 158] stemming hose [231, 289, 327] other hose [320] velvet stocks/thighs of hose [231, 270, 289, 301, 327, 379, 382] stemming legs of hose [231, 289] black legs of hose [320, 327] Shirts riding shirts [85] other shirts [85]

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Bonnets black86 bonnets [67, 88, 231, 301] other bonnets [67, 72, 94, 158, 172, 312, 379] Footwear shoes [61, 70] boots [77, 100] Garters [158] Points [67, 192, 231] Miscellaneous Clothing [51, 116] Fabric 2 ells frieze [72]

Cuthbert Hamilton Cuthbert was another son of the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart87 (the Regent’s halfbrother), but unlike his elder brother James (above), he was favored with only a single outfit of cloak, coat, doublet, hose, and bonnet. March 1544/45

 86

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to cuthbert hammiltoun ane of þe sonnis of vmqle sr James hammiltoun quhom god assolȝe tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane clok price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Cuthbert Hamilton, one of the sons of the late Sir James Hamilton, whom God absolve, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £4 4s.88

Item thre elnis pyle gray to be him ane cote pryce of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 3 ells of pile gray to be a coat for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

It is unclear whether “black” in this context is a color name or a fabric name. Hamilton, History, 273.  88 The total should be £4 5s.  87



Men and B oys of the Co urt 373

Item tua elnis thre quarteris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item thre quarteris and ane half vterris fyne to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, ⅞ ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 28s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [126]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 24s.

James Hamilton of Samuelston This James was the son of John Hamilton of Samuelston, one of the Regent’s half-brothers. Arran gave him a healthy sum to spend on clothing, but only once. March 1552/53 Item be my lordes precept deliuerit to James hammiltoun of Sammelstoun to by him clathis with—xix li xviij s [802]

Item, by my lord’s precept, delivered to James Hamilton of Samelstoun, to buy himself clothes with, £19 18s.

William Bannatyne, Lord of Corehouse This may have been the son of the Regent’s half-sister Isabel and her husband, John Bannatyne of Corehouse.89 He may also have been the same William Bannatyne who was one of the upper servants to the Regent, as were many men of rank. That William was given a horse, sent as an envoy or spokesman to the baronies and gentlemen of Galloway and Annandale, and paid the sizable sum of £40, so he was probably not a commoner.90 He received good-quality clothes, including some silk. However, William Bannatyne, young lord of Corehouse, was given items a step up in both quality and quantity, and it could be argued that the amounts of fabric required for his clothes point to him being a younger person than the servant William. Entries for both are below. Those for William the servant are listed first, followed by those for the young lord of Corehouse. January 1544/45 Item vij January to william bannadyne seruand to my lord gouernour for compositioun of an precept direct to furnis him certaine clathis—xvj li [110]

 89

Fraser, Manuscripts, 45. Paul, Accounts, 8:260, 323, and 377.

 90

Item, January 7th, to William Bannatyne, servant to my lord governor, for composition of a precept direct to furnish him certain clothes, £16.

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December 1545 Item to wm bannadene in compositioun of ane precept to by him claithis—xx li [176]

Item, to William Bannatyne in composition of a precept to buy him clothes, £20.

December 1546 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept to his gracis seruande william bannantyne to be him ane cote and ane cloke foure elnis and ane half of freis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—viij li ij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to his grace’s servant William Bannantyne to be a coat and a cloak for him, 4½ ells of frieze, price of each ell 36s; total: £8 2s.

Item thre elnis tannye welwote to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, 3 ells of tawny velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item vj quarterres pareis blak to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—liiij s

Item, 1½ ells of Paris black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xxvj s viij d [242]

Item, a bonnet for him, price 26s 8d.

July 1552 Item vjto Julij be his grace speciale command deliuerit to williame bannantyne ȝoung lard of corrous v elnis paris blak to be hyme ane cloik and ane coit price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, July 6th, by his grace’s speical command, delivered to William Bannatyne, young lord of Corehouse, 5 ells of Paris black to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item vj quarteris blak satin to lyne þe bordouris of þe samyn price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of black satin to line the borders of the same, price of each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item thre vnce stykkin silk for þis cloik and coit price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 3 ounces of sewing silk for this cloak and coat, price of each ounce 8s; total: 24s.

Item tway elnis bukcrame to lyne þis coit price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 375

Item x quarteris and ane half blak satin to be hym ane dowblet price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li v s

Item, 2⅝ ells of black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 5s.

Item ten quarteris and ane half lynyng fustiane to þe samyn price of þe elne iiij s Summa—x s vj d

Item, 2⅝ ells of lining fustian for the same, price of each ell 4s; total:10s 6d.

Item for stenting canves to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for stiffening canvas for the same, 3s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng of myllane to be hym hois price þairof—xxxviij s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for him, price thereof 38s.

Item ane elne blew claith to lyne þe samyn price þairof—v s

Item, an ell of blue cloth to line the same, price thereof 5s.

Item ane elne of taffiteis to þe samyn price þairof—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta for the same, price thereof 16s.

Item foure dosane buttonis to þis dowblett and coit price of þe dosane ij s Summa— viij s

Item, 48 buttons for this doublet and coat, price of each dozen 2s; total: 8s.

Item ane dosane of poynttis to þir hois price þairof—ij s

Item, 12 points for these hose, price thereof 2s.

Item for making of þis cloik coit dowblett and hois—xx s

Item, for making of this cloak, coat, doublet, and hose, 20s.

Item ane bonett to hyme price þairof— xxiij s

Item, a bonnet for him, price thereof 23s.

Item ane dosane elnis lynnyng claitht tobe hyme serkis price of þe elne iij s Summa— xxxvj s

Item, 12 ells of linen cloth to be shirts for him, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item thre quarteris holand claitht tobe ruffis and nekkis to þe samyn price of þe elne x s Summa—vij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of Holland cloth to be ruffs and collars for the same, price of each ell 10s; total: 7s 6d.

Item for making of þe samyn—viij s [735]

Item, for making of the same, 8s.

OTHE R S Those listed below were not (as far as could be determined) closely related to the Regent by blood or marriage and were not in service to Arran or part of his household but had some social standing. They are listed alphabetically by first name.

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Andrew Rutherford Andrew seems to have been a child who was for some reason in the keeping of the Regent for a time—bed, board, and clothing were all provided—but the space left blank after “son of ” in the manuscript makes identification of him difficult. He could have been one of the Rutherfords of Hunthill, who had numerous Andrews in the family, but none of them seem to have been of the right age. July 1546 Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to alexr alexr makesoun for certane claythis furnist to andro ruþerfurde sone of […] and for þe said androis burde fra þe last day of apprile in anno dmini etc xlvto to þe alhallo day nixt to cum viz in anno etc xlvjto quhilk makis ane ȝeir and ane half ffor his his burde in þe ȝeir xx li sma of his hale burde and claythis furnist to him be þe said space—xxxvij li xvj s vj d [209]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Alexander Makesoun for certain clothes furnished to Andrew Rutherford, son of […] and for the said Andrew’s board from the last day of April in the year of our Lord, etc., [15]45, to the All Hallows Day next to come, that is, in the year, etc., [15]46, which makes a year and a half for his board; each year £20; total of his whole board and clothes furnished to him during the said time £37 16s 6d.

James, the Young Lord of Johnstone This is likely to be James Johnstone of Johnstone, who married the Regent’s niece Margaret Hamilton, daughter of John Hamilton of Samuelston and Clydesdale.91 (See pp. 128–9 for provision of her wedding clothes.) He was the son and heir of John Johnstone of Johnstone, who received cloth for a gown (below). March 1547/48

 91

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to the ȝoung laird of Jhonnestoun xj quartaris fyne blak sating to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to the young lord of Johnstone, 2¾ ells of fine black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak to be him stokes of hois pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item for schankes to þir hois—xx s j d ob

Item, for legs for these hose, 20s 1½d.

Item for lynyng to þis doublat and hois— xxxvj s ix d

Item, for lining for this doublet and hose, 36s 9d.

Paul, Accounts, 8:764, and Paul, Peerage, 1:247–48.



Men and B oys of the Co urt 377

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote pryce of þe pece xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li [362]

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

James Nisbet Although the story of the “crook-backed lord” and his great fire is surely an interesting one, it seems to have vanished into the mists of history. James could have been one of the Nisbets (or Nesbits) of Dalzell or those of Dean, the latter of whom had a long history as burgesses in Edinburgh. If he was of the merchant class, his nickname may have been given in jest rather than indicating noble birth. Clearly he had some standing, as he owned more than one house and felt able to call on the Regent for aid. It is also interesting that his clothing (“habiliments”) was listed with his houses as part of his financial loss. August 1547 Item be my lorde gouernourres precept and spetiall commande to James nysbet alias þe cruke bakit laird to support him efter þe byrnyng of his houssis and abulȝeamentis in xx crounis of þe sone—xxij li [325]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Nisbet, alias the crook-backed lord, to support him after the burning of his houses and habiliments, in 20 crowns of the sun, £22.

John Hamilton of Nelisland (Neilsland) He was brother to James Hamilton, who was the lord of Stonehouse and also captain of Edinburgh castle and Provost of Edinburgh.92 The children of the lord of Stonehouse also appear in the Accounts (see pp. 000 and 000). February 1543/44 Item þe x day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command deliuerit to Jhonne hammiltoun of nelisland to be him ane cloke tua elnis thre quarteris fyne spanȝe freis pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d [71]

 92

Item, the 10th day of February by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to John Hamilton of Neilsland, to be a cloak for him, 2¾ ells fine Spanish frieze, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Hamilton, History, 611–12. For James Hamilton, lord of Stonehouse, see 828–31.

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Sir John Johnstone This may be John Johnstone of Johnstone, who was active in the war against England and for whom Arran secured a release from captivity in 1550. In 1552 Johnstone assisted with a treaty intended to set the borders between England and Scotland,93 and the fine wool he was given for a gown was probably in thanks. His son and heir James married the Regent’s niece Margaret Hamilton.94 August 1552 Item xiiijto augusti be my lord gouernouris speciale command deliuerit to Schir Johnne Johnistoune v elnis paris blak tobe hyme ane gowne price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li [740]

Item, August 14th, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to Sir John Johnstone, 5 ells of Paris black to be a gown for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Sir Robert Hamilton of the Haggs This could be the son (though not the heir) of Gavin Hamilton of Haggs, also known as Gavin Hamilton of Kirklee, and Jonet Hynde.95 Robert was evidently of sufficiently high station to wear a gown, although to make a gown at that price one would have to economize on either the amount of fabric or the price per ell. April 1550 Item to schir Robert hammiltoun of þe haggis to by him ane goun—vj li xviij s [551]

Item, to Sir Robert Hamilton of the Haggs to buy a gown for him, £6 18s.

Robert Hamilton of Perdowie (Bardowie) This is probably the son of John Hamilton of Buthernock (also known as “of Bardowie”) by his second wife, Margaret Weir96 (called “Lady Perdowye, moder of umquhile Maister Robert Hammyltoun” in 1549,97 so he must have been by then deceased). He received an eminently respectable outfit with good-quality wool for the coat and cloak and velvet for the doublet to lend a little more status.

 93

Paul, Peerage, 1:244–45. Ibid., 1:248.  95 Hamilton, History, 434.  96 Ibid., 93.  97 Paul, Accounts, 9:317.  94



Men and B oys of the Co urt 379

October 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and speall command to maister rot hammyltoun of Perdowie iij elnis tanny weluot to be him ane doublet þe eln iiij li sma—xij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Master Robert Hamilton of Perdowie [or Bardowie], 3 ells of tawny velvet to be a doublet for him, each ell £4; total: £12.

Item foure elnis and ane half of freis to be him ane cloik and ane coit pce of þe elne xxxvj s sma—viij li ij s

Item, 4½ ells of frieze to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £8 2s.

Item v quarteris blak to be him hois þe elne xxxij s sma—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be hose for him, each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item ane bonett to him pce—xxiiij s [169]

Item, a bonnet for him, price 24s.

Sir William Hamilton of Glenmoor, Knight Sir William was the son and heir of William Hamilton of Sanquhar,98 who was appointed by the Regent as one of those working towards a treaty with England.99 Although he has only one entry in this section of the Accounts, it represented quite a substantial investment. For comparison, there are two similar entries near to this one, one for David Pook (servant to Lady Gordon) for £4 and one to Thomas Bargany (a mason) for £12. December 1551 Item be his grace speciale command to schire williame hammyltoun of glenmure knycht to by hyme clathis witht—liij li [670]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Sir William Hamilton of Glenmoor, Knight, to buy himself clothes with, £53.

William Kirkcaldy It is possible that this is the famous Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange who later served in France as a spy, but there is no way to know for sure.100 His father had been Treasurer to King

 98

Hamilton, History, 777, which claims he was illegitimate, and John Anderson, Historical and Genealogical Memoirs of the House of Hamilton; with Genealogical Memoirs of the Several Branches of the Family (Edinburgh: John Anderson, 1825), 382, which claims he was legitimate.  99 Anderson, Memoirs, 382. 100 The National Galleries of Scotland hold a portrait of him by François Clouet that it has dated 1555–56, but given the size of his ruff and the style of his hat, it is likely to have been painted two decades later.

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James V, and he was a party to the murder of Cardinal Beaton in 1546, which would place him in Arran’s camp.101 The clothing given to him was part of the general mourning for James V. January 1542/43 Item deliuerit to be ane dwle govne coit and huid to william kirkcaldy x elnis franche blak, price of the elne xxx s Summa—xv li

Item, delivered to be a mourning gown, coat, and hood for William Kirkcaldy, 10 ells of French black, price of each ell 30s; total: £15.

Item deliuerit to him ane dwle bonet, price—xviij s [7]

Item, delivered to him a mourning bonnet, price 18s.

A Son of the Lord of Kilsyth This might be Alexander Livingston, who according to Paul’s Peerage was a protector of the infant Mary Stewart at Stirling Castle.102 The reference to the “calender” is somewhat obscure, but it may have referred to Callendar House or Callendar Park in Falkirk. June 1545 Item þe xxvj day of Junij at my lord gouernoris command to ane sonn of þe laird of kilsythis for ane bonet quhilk his grace tuk fra him in þe calender—xxij s [149]

Item, the 26th day of June, at my lord governor’s command, to a son of the lord of Kilsyth for a bonnet which his grace took from him in the Callendar, 22s.

Unknown This curious entry is not a victim of damage to the manuscript, as so many others are. Rather, it simply has spaces in the midst, as if the names were to be filled in later or were for some reason coyly left blank. It is probably for a son of someone with a title, as the spaces left would accommodate “the [Lord] of [Kilsyth]” or similar. The total spent was also left blank. August 1545 Item þe viij day of September to […] in sanctandrois for þe burde of ane sone of þe […] of […] and to by him claythis—[…] [163]

101

Paul, Peerage, 8:283. Ibid., 5:188.

102

Item, the 8th day of September, to […] in St. Andrews for the board of a son of the […] of […], and to buy him clothes—[…]

Chapter 6

Women and Girls of the Court

W

ith a few exceptions, those listed in this chapter were either members of the Regent’s family or well-born dependents such as wards and were of high rank by birth or marriage. Due to the relatively small number of women in the Accounts, the distinction between women and girls “of the court” and others is fairly easy to make.1 Unfortunately, the stories of the women and girls below are told largely with reference to the men to whom they were daughters or wives. The Regent was the catalyst for all expenditures via the Accounts, so each recipient’s relationship to and with him is important to provide context for the clothing they were granted. In addition, the published peerages that are the best source of biographical information for most people in the Accounts were written in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries and tended to consider all women in view of their relationships to men. In a few cases, the Accounts shed additional light, either on those relationships or on other aspects of the lives or personalities of the women and girls who appear in them. In particular, it is possible to discern patterns in the types and quantities of clothing given to certain classes of women. Women and girls “of the court” tended to wear good-quality wool gowns, often trimmed in velvet, with wool or silk kirtles. Some had silk gowns trimmed with strips of silk fabric or passementerie and, for special occasions, long trains. Most of their clothing was black or tawny or gray, but many had a few accents or even whole garments of white, purple, red, yellow, blue, or, in one case, orange.2 They wore hoods—usually of black velvet—or hats, and had other accessories ranging from sleeves to necklaces to knives. For keeping warm, there were cloaks—usually of wool trimmed in velvet—and petticoats of red wool which were sometimes trimmed in or lined with fur. For riding, there were cloaks and safeguards.

  1

See Andrea Thomas, “‘Dragonis Baith and Dowis ay in Double Forme’: Women at the Court of James V, 1513–1542,” in Ewan and Meikle, Women in Scotland, for a full discussion of women’s limited place in James V’s court and Marie de Guise’s household.   2 Only one instance of green appears for this group of women, in the bodice of a kirtle for Barbara Hamilton (which probably would not have been visible – the rest of the kirtle was cloth of gold).

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The only other women and girls who dressed in a similar fashion were in service as maidens of the chamber or ladies-in-waiting to the women of rank. They were either wellborn themselves or devoted in part to keeping up the appearances of their mistresses. Every person, while staying mostly within the realm of the wardrobe listed above, had her own individual way of combining garments, and of course, some clothing was occasion-specific. Marriages and deaths in particular were often noted with new clothing in the Accounts. Unlike the common practice of today, wedding gowns were simply the nicest version of current fashion that the bride’s family could afford, and they could be worn for many years. Even the high-status ladies of the court were frugal enough to mend and continue wearing their best clothes over long periods of time. The Regent’s own youngest daughter Anne had several old gowns mended and altered in February 1551/52, October 1552, and September 1553 [692, below; 752, 842]. This was not extraordinary even in families of high status. Bess of Hardwick’s stepdaughter Catherine had two gowns remade just before Christmas of 1549.3 Bridget, the daughter of Lord Lisle, had kirtles made from her old gowns in 1534,4 and her half-sister Mary Basset referenced the mending of her satin gown in 1536.5 Item quinto februarii deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour tway elnis taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe taile of ane auld gowne of lady annis þt þe lyning was worne out of price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, February 5th, delivered to the queen’s tailor, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the hem of an old gown of Lady Anne’s that the lining was worn out of, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item vj quarteris bukcrame to mend þis gowne and certane vþer clething of hirris witht price of þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to mend this gown, and certain other clothing of hers with, price of each ell 4s; total: 6s.

Item ane quarter gray welwett to mend þe bordouris of ane gowne of gray dammes of hyrris price þairof—xvij s vj d

Item, ¼ ell of gray velvet to mend the borders of a gown of gray damask of hers, price thereof 17s 6d.

Item for gray silk to translait þe samyn gowne—v s [692]

Item, for gray silk to alter [enlarge?] the same gown, 5s.

Such frugality may have been a consequence of the fact that materials were much more expensive than labor but also may indicate that the Regent and his family were in fact cognisant of the cost of their wardrobes relative to the poverty of their country. The sections below are organized with reference to the relationship between recipients and the Regent. They are separated into categories such as “Wife,” “Daughters,” “Nieces,” and so on, proceeding outward from the closest relationships to the most distant.   3

Levey, “References,” 16. St. Clare Byrne, Lisle Letters, 3:89. It must be noted that Bridget was somewhat neglected compared to her siblings. See Schuessler, “Children’s Clothing,” for a full discussion of their clothing.   5 St. Clare Byrne, Lisle Letters, 3:162. The Lisle Letters also mention a few pieces of clothing being mended for Lady Lisle, but it is unclear whether these were old clothes that needed repair or refashioning or new clothes with which she was dissatisfied; 4:53, 5:203, and 5:578.   4



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 3 83

WIF E Lady Margaret Douglas Lady Margaret Douglas was the daughter of James Douglas, third Earl of Morton. She married the Regent in or around September 15326 and had with him five sons and three daughters.7 The very first reference to clothing in this portion of the Accounts is for a mourning cap of state for Lady Margaret, signifying both the official mourning of the court for the late King James V and her new status as the Lady Governor. No other mourning clothing appears for her, though if she had been a lady-in-waiting to the queen, at the death of the king she would have been included in “The expensis debursit upone the quene þe kingis spous quham god assolȝe hir ladyis and seruandis dule habittis”8 [The expenses disbursed upon the queen (the king’s spouse, whom God absolve), her ladies’ and servants’ mourning clothing], which consists of a list of fabrics bought in bulk that were not assigned to specific people. The clothing supplied to Lady Margaret from treasury funds over nearly a decade included nine gowns (most of them velvet or satin), three night gowns (all of silk and two with fur linings), nine kirtles (all of them silk), five skirts, two doublets, three petticoats, four cloaks, and various accessories and underthings. All told, it seems a fairly scanty wardrobe for a countess, and it is likely that she used other sources of income to augment it. While the size of sixteenth-century wardrobes cannot be judged by modern standards – indeed, from wills of the period it seems clear that many people had very few garments – comparing the amount of clothing Lady Margaret received with her husband’s sartorial expenditures shows that he was far more concerned about investing in his own wardrobe than in hers. He ordered more than seven times as many items for himself as for his wife. A curious and rather lengthy hiatus appears in the Accounts between February 1544/45 and October 1549 during which no clothing for the Lady Governor is listed. This might indicate a period of estrangement between her and her husband, as there are a few references to a possible divorce between them, including this one from April 1545: “Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command for his gracis spous expensis þis instant moneth of appryle conforme to þe Jugis taxatioun þe tyme of þe pley and caus of diuorsment betuyx þame […]”9 [Item, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s spouse’s expenses this current month of April, conforming to the Judge’s taxation for the time of the plea and cause of divorcement between them]. In addition to these payments, there were also others from this period that did not reference the divorce but also seem to be subsidies for her maintenance, such as “Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command gevin for his gracis spous expensis fra þe xij day of september to þe xxvj day of þe samyn her grace beand and   6

Paul, Peerage, 6:361. Hamilton, History, 16.   8 NRS E21/40/7r–7v.   9 NRS E21/41/139v. There are also references to the divorce in March 1543/44 and April 1544, but it never occurred. See also Paul, Accounts, 8:li, and Franklin, Scottish Regency, 108.   7

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remanand wtin þe castell of Edinburght—xxx li xv s iij d.”10 [Item, by my lord governor’s special command, given for his grace’s spouse’s expenses from the 12th day of September to the 26th day of the same, her grace being and remaining within the castle of Edinburgh, £30 15s 3d.] This suggests that Lady Margaret may have been purchasing clothing and materials directly rather than through the treasury. Amy Blakeway has suggested that Margaret may have been mentally ill, and that this could have contributed to the Regent’s efforts to obtain a divorce.11 Though the divorce never took place, an estrangement and a state of mind that did not permit the usual public duties that the wife of the Lord Governor might be expected to maintain would help to explain the relatively sparse expenditures authorized for her by the Regent in the Accounts. She certainly had other clothing than what appears in the Accounts, though whether it remained in her wardrobe from before her husband’s regency or was acquired during that time is not clear. On January 28, 1548/49, the Regent wrote a letter that functioned as a receipt detailing a number of valuable clothing items belonging to Lady Margaret that were retrieved from John Lindsay of Dowhill, who had held them in safekeeping.12 This list sheds some light on the items Lady Margaret received from treasury funds. While of fine fabrics such as silk satin and velvet, few of the items supplied in the Accounts could compare to the exceedingly splendid wardrobe John Lindsay was holding for her, which included several gowns of cloth of gold (one with sleeves lined with white ermine), a kirtle of cloth of gold, a purple velvet night gown with gold passementerie, and a kirtle of purple satin embroidered with gold. The treasury-supplied clothing was in general also much more restrained in color. Around three-quarters of it was black, tawny, and gray, with a few splashes of red, yellow, and purple. Most of her garments described in the Accounts were monochromatic, and many had no trimming or decoration listed. A summary of the clothing Lady Margaret received in the Accounts follows the transcriptions and translations below. January 1542/43 In the first the vj day of Januar deliuerit to alexr foster to be ane dwle caip of stait to hir grace and ane coit xiij elnis quarter elne parys blak price of þe elne xl s Summa— xxvj li x s [1]

First, the 6th day of January, delivered to Alexander Foster to be a mourning cap of state for her grace, and a coat, 13¼ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £26 10s.

March 1542/43: The records for this month are one long, continuous series in the manuscript and are given here in full in order to make sense of the charges for lining and making at the end of record 25, which apply to all of the clothing listed in 23, 24, and 25. These include items for the Regent’s daughter Barbara, his wife Margaret Douglas, Margaret’s gentlewomen, Isabel Hamilton, and Jane Hamilton. Parts relating to others will be copied under their names. “My lady” refers to Margaret Douglas.  10

NRS E21/41/98v. Blakeway, “Divorce,” 16–17.  12 For an excerpt of the letter including the list of garments, see Appendix 2.  11



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 3 8 5

Item deliuerit to Johnne andersoune tailȝeour to be ane riding cloke to my lady four elnis of skarlet, price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xvj li

Item, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a riding cloak for my lady, 4 ells of scarlet, price of each all £4; total: £16.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe samin ½ elne ½ quarter crammessy veluet price þairof—iij li xv s

Item, delivered to him to trim the same, ⅝ ell of crimson velvet, price thereof £3 15s.

Item deliuerit to him to be corinettis pertlettis and vþer necessaris for my lady twa elnis ½ quarter ane naill blak veluet, price of þe elne lviij s Summa—vj li vj s x d obolus

Item, delivered to him to be cornets, partlets, and other necessities for my lady, 23⁄16 ells of black velvet, price of each ell 58s; total: £6 6s 10½d.

Item deliuerit to him of blak sating for siclyke necessaris twa elnis quarter ane naill, price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li xviij s vij d obolus

Item, delivered to him of black satin for similar necessities, 25⁄16 ells, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 18s 7½d.

Item deliuerit to him quarter ½ quarter crammessy sating, price þairof—xxx s

Item, delivered to him ⅜ ell of crimson satin, price thereof 30s.

Item deliuerit to him ix quarteris blak armosy teffites, price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—iij li xviij s ix d

Item, delivered to him 2¼ ells of black armosene taffeta, price of each ell 35s; total: £3 18s 9d.

Item deliuerit to him for gentill wemen thre crapis price þairof—xlvj s

Item, delivered to him for the gentlewomen, three crepes, price thereof 46s.

Item deliuerit to him v quarteris blak teffites of Janis price þairof—xvij s vj d

Item, delivered to him 1¼ ells of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 17s 6d.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill vij elnis ½ elne gray sating, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiij li x s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 7½ ells of gray satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £13 10s.

Item deliuerit to lyne þe samin thre elnis dimmegrane price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—iiij li iiij s [23]

Item, delivered to line the same, 3 ells of demigrain, price of each ell 28s; total: £4 4s.

Item deliuerit to him to be ane gowne and kirtill to barbara vj elnis thre quarteris quhite armosy teffites, price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiij li x s

Item, delivered to him [ John Anderson] to be a gown and kirtle for Barbara, 6¾ ells of white armosene taffeta, price of each ell 40s; total: £13 10s.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe samin ½ elne ½ qrter quhite veluet, price þairof—xlvj s

Item, delivered to him to trim the same, ⅝ ell of white velvet, price thereof 46s.

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Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe sichtis þairof vj quarteris quhite teffites of Janis, price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s [vj d]13

Item, delivered to him the line the scyes thereof, 1½ ells of white taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item deliuerit to him to be hir ane vþer gowne v elnis tanny dammes, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li

Item, delivered to him to be another gown for her, 5 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £9.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill four elnis ane nail less tanny veluet, price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xij li xix s x d

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 315⁄16 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £12 19s 10d.14

Item deliuerit to be hir ane vþer gown and geit twa gownis of vairiant champlet to twa of þe gentill wemen vj elnis elnis ane quarter purpur veluet, price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xx li xij s vj d

Item, delivered to be another gown for her and to trim two gowns of variegated camlet for two of the gentlewomen, 6¼ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £20 12s 6d.

Item deliuerit to lyne ane reid dames kirtill to hir furneist be alexander fostar ane elne dimmegrane, price—xxviij s [24]

Item, delivered to line a red damask kirtle for her, furnished by Alexander Foster, an ell of demigrain, price 28s.

Item deliuerit to him to be ane gown to Issobell hammyltoune x elnis blak dames, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xviij li

Item, delivered to him [ John Anderson] to be a gown for Isabel Hamilton, 10 ells of black damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £18.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis ½ elne gray sating, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xj li xiiij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 6½ ells of gray satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £11 14s.

Item deliuerit to be ane gowne to Jane hammiltoune ix elnis ½ elne dames, price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, delivered to be a gown for Jane Hamilton, 9½ ells of damask, price of each ell 32s; total: £15 4s.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill and to geit ane gowne to barbara of tanny dames vij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xxiij li ij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her and to trim a gown for Barbara of tawny damask, 7 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £23 2s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe bodyis of all þe foresaidis claithis xij elnis quhite fustiane, price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, delivered to him to line the bodies of all the aforesaid clothes, 12 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

This portion of the manuscript is missing. Paul’s transcription contains the bracketed text, which is the logical sum.  14 The total should be £12 19s 10½d.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 3 87

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe saidis twa gownis of blak dames and ane gowne of blak sating furneist be william tailliefere, twa elnis ½ quarter blak veluet price of þe elne lvj s Summa—v li xix s

Item, delivered to him to trim the said two gowns of black damask and a gown of black satin furnished by William Tailliefere, 2⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell 56s; total: £5 19s.

Item deliuerit to be þame twa cornnettis and twa mvsellis ½ elne ane naill blak veluet price—xxx s xj d obolus

Item, delivered to be two cornets and two mufflers for them, 9⁄16 ell of black velvet, price 30s 11½d.

Item deliuerit to lyne the samin quarter ½ quarter blak teffites of Janis, price þairof— v s iij d

Item, delivered to line the same, ⅜ ell of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 5s 3d.

Item gevin to þe said Johnne andersoune telȝeour for lynyngis furnesit be him to all þe foresaidis claithis maid to my lady hir dochter and gentilwemen and to certane vþer clathis furnesit to thame be william telliefere and for the fassoune þairof as his comptis beris—xix li xiij s [25]

Item, given to the said John Anderson, tailor, for linings furnished by him for all the aforesaid clothes made for my lady, her daughter, and gentlewomen, and for certain other clothes furnished to them by William Telliefere, and for the making thereof, as his account shows, £19 13s.

April 1543 Item þe samin day deliuerit to my lady four elnis cammerage clayt price of þe elne xx s Summa—iiij li [28]

Item, the same day delivered to my lady, 4 ells of cambric cloth, price of each ell 20s; total: £4.

June 1543 In the first þe secund day of Junij deliuerit to Johnne andersone tailȝeour to be gorgettis to my lady v quarteris blak sating, price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—xliij s ix d

First, the second day of June, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be gorgets for my Lady, 1¼ ells of black satin, price of each ell 35s; total: 43s 9d.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe samin thre qurteris blak teffites of Janis, price þairof— xij s [43]

Item, delivered to him to line the same, ¾ ell of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 12s.

November 1543 Item þe sext day of nouember for half ane elne of welwet to be ane paitlat to my lady gouernour pryce thairof—xxxij s vj d [54]

Item, the sixth day of November, for ½ ell of velvet to be a partlet for my lady governor, price thereof 32s 6d.

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Item þe last day of nouember to be my lady gouernour ane pair of slevis thre quarteris blak satyng price—xxxiij s iij d

Item, the last day of November, to be a pair of sleeves for my lady governor, ¾ ell of black satin, price 33s 3d.

15 price—xxxiij s

, price 33s.

Item ane elne and ane half of taffate to lyne þe saidis patlettis price—xx s [59]

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to line the said partlets, price 20s.

October 1544 Item þe vj day of october boucht to be hois to his gracis spous iij elnis vterfyne price of þe elne xxxiij s iiij d Summa—v li

Item, the 6th day of October, bought to be hose for his grace’s spouse, 3 ells of utterfine, price of each ell 33s 4d; total: £5.

Item for þe making of þame—iiij s

Item, for the making of them, 4s.

Item thre quarteris ȝallo welwot to be hir ane pair of slevis price þairof—iij li

Item, ¾ ell of yellow velvet to be a pair of sleeves for her, price thereof £3.

Item thre quarteris ȝallo sating to be bodyis to ane kirtill of ȝallo welwot of hirris þe welwot gottin furth of þe castell price—ix s

Item, ¾ ell of yellow satin to be bodies for a kirtle of yellow velvet of hers, the velvet gotten forth from the castle, price 9s.

Item thre elnis blak gray to lyne hir goun and kirtill price—viij s

Item, 3 ells of black gray to line her gown and kirtle, price 8s.

Item tua elnis and ane half of demegrane to lyne þe sychtis of hir said kirtill price of þe elne xxix s Summa—iij li xij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of demigrain to line the scyes of her said kirtle, price of each ell 29s; total: £3 12s 6d.

…

…

Item the last day of october boucht to my lady gouernour to draw furt ane pair of slevis of hirris iij elnis taffate price of þe elne xviij s Summa liiij s [91]

Item, the last day of October, bought for my lady governor to draw forth a pair of sleeves of hers, 3 ells of taffeta, price of each ell 18s; total: 54s.

November 1544 Item þe xxj day of nouember tua elnis blak sating boucht and deliuerrit to my lady gouernour to be cornettis to hir hudis price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

 15

Item, the 21st day of November, 2 ells of black satin bought and delivered to my lady governor to be cornets for her hoods, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 8s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and this line item is illegible except for the total.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 3 8 9

Item thre elnis taffate to draw furth ane pair of slevis of my lady gouernoris price—lvj s

Item, 3 ells of taffeta to draw forth a pair of sleeves of my lady governor’s, price 56s.

…

…

Item þe samyn day boucht thre elnis blak welwot to my ladye gouernour price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s [99]

Item, the same day, bought 3 ells of black velvet for my lady governor, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept boucht to his gracis spous xxiiij elnis holland claith price of þe elne xij s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept, bought for his grace’s spouse, 24 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 12s; total: £14 8s.

Item for ane elne of crammasy sating—iiij li

Item, for an ell of crimson satin, £4.

Item tua elnis and ane half scarlot to be hir ane wylecote price of þe elne v li Summa— xij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of scarlet to be a petticoat for her, price of each ell £5; total: £12 10s.

Item xxiiij elnis robanis price of þe elne ij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 24 ells of ribbons, price of each ell 2s; total: 48s.

Item vj vnces quhyte and blak sylk price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 6 ounces of white and black silk, price of each ounce 8s; total: 48s.

Item ane punde fyne small burge threid price of þe vnce vij s Summa—v li xij s

Item, one pound of very fine Bruges thread, price of each ounce 7s; total: £5 12s.

Item for ane pair of ryding schone to hir— iij s [101]

Item, for a pair of riding shoes for her, 3s.

February 1544/45 Item þe xxj day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis spous v elnis fyne freis to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, the 21st day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s spouse, 5 ells of fine frieze to be a gown for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item be þe samyn precept nyne elnis tanny welwot price of þe elne iiij li Summa— xxxvj li

Item, by the same precept, 9 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £36.

Item thre elnis taffate of foure threid price of þe elne xvij s Summa—lj s

Item, 3 ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 17s; total: 51s.

Item vj quarteris blak welwot price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—v li v s

Item, 1½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £5 5s.

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16

[p]rice of þe elne iij s Summa?— xxiiij s

price of each ell 3s; total?: 24s.

Item ane elne of gray fustiane price þairof—v s

Item, an ell of gray fustian, price thereof 5s.

Item ane elne of canves price þairof—ij s vij d

Item, an ell of canvas, price thereof 2s 7d.

Item ane elne of buge sating price þairof— xij s [115]

Item, an ell of Bruges satin, price thereof 12s.

October 1549 Item nyne quarterris and ane half fyne blak weluet till be tua hudis to his graces wyfe price of þe elne iij li xvj s summa—ix li vj d [501]

Item, 2⅜ ells of fine black velvet to be two hoods for his grace’s wife, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £9 0s 6d.

March 1549/50

 16

Item x elnis and ane half and half ane quartar of fyne blak welwote to be ane goun hudes and paitlattis to my ladye gouernour price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xxxix li vij s vj d

Item, 10⅝ ells of fine black velvet to be a gown, hoods, and partlets for my lady governor, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £39 7s 6d.17

Item vij elnis gray sating to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xiij li vj s

Item, 7 ells of gray satin to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 38s; total: £13 6s.

Item to lyne þe fore skirttis of þis goun of blak welwot foure elne half taffate of þe corde—iiij li x s

Item, to line the foreskirts of this gown of black velvet, 4½ ells of taffeta of the cord, £4 10s.

Item v quartaris blak sating to lyne þir hudes to be gorgettis and other necessares þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xlvij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of black satin to line these hoods, to be gorgets, and other necessities, each ell 38s; total: 47s 6d.

Item thre vnce silk to sew þir clathis þe vnce x s Summa—xxx s

Item, 3 ounces of silk to sew these clothes, each ounce 10s; total: 30s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. The first line item on the page is mostly lost, and only a small part of the second remains.  17 The total should be £39 16s 10½d. The total given would be correct if the amount of fabric were 10½ ells rather than 10⅝.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 39 1

Item x elnis fyne tannye sating to be hir ane nyt goun price of þe elne xlv s Summa—xxij li x s

Item, 10 ells of fine tawny satin to be a night gown for her, price of each ell 45s; total: £22 10s.

Item half elne and half quartar tannye welwote to vane þis goun—xlvij s vj d

Item, ⅝ ell of tawny velvet to trim this gown, 47s 6d.

Item ane elne of bukrame to beir þe furring of þis goun—v s

Item, an ell of buckram to bear the furring of this gown, 5s.

Item iiij ds cvnyng skynnis to þis goun—vij li iiij s

Item, 48 rabbit skins for this gown, £7 4s.

…

…

Item for making of my ladeis nyt goun— xxiij s

Item, for making of my lady’s night gown, 23s.

Item to þe furrour for furring to þe bak of it and his laubouris—iiij li

Item, to the furrier for furring for the back of it, and his labors, £4.

…

…

Item for making of my ladeis goun of blak weluot—xxiij s

Item, for making of my lady’s gown of black velvet, 23s.

Item for making of hir kirtill of gray sating—xiiij s [532]

Item, for making of her kirtle of gray satin, 14s.

Item to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeoure send to hammiltoun to mak my ladye gouernoures & bairnes of heres clathis in iij crownis of þe sone—iij li ix s [540]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, sent to Hamilton to make my lady governor’s and children of Herries’ clothes in 3 crowns of the sun, £3 9s.

Item to ane boy to pas to hammiltoun wt certane silkis to be clething to my ladye gouernour and airris of heres—viij s [541]

Item, to a boy to travel to Hamilton with certain silks to be clothing for my lady governor and heirs of Herries, 8s.

May 1550 Item viij elnis crammosy sating to be ane kirtill and manschis to my lady gouernour pce of þe elne iiij li—xxxij li

Item, 8 ells of crimson satin to be a kirtle and sleeves for my lady governor, price of each ell £4; total: £32.

Item tua elnis and ane half of reid to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xxviij s smma—iij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of red to line the same, price of each ell 28s; total: £3 10s.

392

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre elnis and ane quartar of scarlot to be ane cloik to my lady gouernour price of þe elne L s smma—viij li ij s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of scarlet to be a cloak for my lady governor, price of each ell 50s; total: £8 2s 6d.

Item half ane elne and ane quartar crammosy weluet to walt þis cloik pce of þe elne v li—iij li ij s vj d

Item, ⅝18 ell of crimson velvet to trim this cloak, price of each ell £5, total: £3 2s 6d.

Item ane vnce of silk—viij s

Item, an ounce of silk, 8s.

Item for making of þis sating kirtill—xiiij s

Item, for making of this satin kirtle, 14s.

Item for making of þis pe—xiiij s

Item, for making of this cloak, 14s.

Item tua elnis canves to pak all hir clay tis In and send to hammyltoun—vj s viij d [555]

Item, 2 ells of canvas to pack all her clothes in and send to Hamilton, 6s 8d.

Item xxjo Maii to Jhonne andersoune tailȝeoure send to hammiltoun to mak clais to my ladye gouernour and to beir his expensis—iij li ix s [584]

Item, May 21st, to John Anderson, tailor, sent to Hamilton to make clothes for my lady governor, and to bear his expenses, £3 9s.

Item to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeoure for making of tua gownnes to þe airris of colluthye ane to my Ladye gouernour and ane to my lordis douchter—xlvj s [587]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of two gowns for the heiress of Colluthie, one to my lady governor, and one to my lord’s daughter, 46s.

Item to ane boy direct to hammiltoun to beir certane silkis þair to be my ladye gouernour clathis—viij s [590]

Item, to a boy traveling directly to Hamilton to bear certain silks there to be my lady governor’s clothes, 8s.

November 1550

 18

Item secundo Nouembris bocht to be my Ladye gouernour? ane govne viij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xxx li

Item, November 2nd, bought to be a gown for my lady governor, 8 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £30.

Item to lyne þe foir skirtis of this govne ane elne half quarter taffiteis of foure thredis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xviij s

Item, to line the foreskirts of this gown, 1⅛ ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 16s; total: 18s.

Normally ⅝ would be written out as “half ane elne and half ane quarter.” The line item as written would equate to ¾, but ¾ was not generally written out in this way. Technically, the hierarchy of measurements could be used in such a way that “half ane elne and ane quarter” meant half an ell plus a quarter of a half (or ⅛), but again, this would have been unusual, and it is more likely that the clerk simply left out a word. In any case, ⅝ is the correct amount for the total given.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 393

 19

Item to lyne þis govne and ane kirtill of champit veluet gottin out of my lord governouris wardrop vij elnis lynyng gray price of þe elne v s Summa—xxxv s

Item, to line this gown and a kirtle of patterned velvet gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe, 7 ells of lining gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 35s.

Item to lyne þe sychtis of þis kirtill half ane elne braid Inglis reid price þairof—xiiij s

Item, to line the scyes of this kirtle, ½ ell of broad English red, price thereof 14s.

Item to be ane paitclaith to þis govne half ane elne and half ane quarter tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xlvj s x d

Item, to be a partlet for this gown, ⅝ ell of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 46s 10d.19

Item to Craig furrour for spottit armyng to ege þis govne with—xlvj s

Item, to Craig, furrier, for spotted ermine to edge this gown with, 46s.

Item to lyne þe bodyis of þis govne vj quarteris of bukrem price of þe elne v s Summa—vij s vj d

Item, to line the bodies of this gown, 1½ ells of buckram, price of each ell 5s; total: 7s 6d.

Item tobe ane furnist hude to hir v quarteris and ane half blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xiiij s Summa—v li xxj d

Item, to be a furnished hood for her, 1⅜ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 14s; total: £5 0s 21d.

Item to lyne þis hude and tobe dowbill cornettis to hir v quarteris fyne blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa l s

Item, to line this hood and to be double cornets for her, 1¼ ells of fine black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item tobe hir ane paitclaith and gorgettis v quarteris of sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, to be a partlet and gorgets for her, 1¼ ells of satin, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item to lyne þis paitclaith gorgettis and hude ane elne and half quarter taffiteis of þe cord price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxs iij d

Item, to line this partlet, gorgets, and hood, 1⅛ ells of taffeta of the cord, price of each ell 18s; total: 20s 3d.

Item to sew thir claithis ane vnce and ane half of blak silk price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, to sew these clothes, 1½ ounces of black silk, price of each ounce 9s; total: 13s 6d.

Item coft tobe hir ane Ryding pe foure elnis and ane quarter franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li x s

Item, bought to be a riding cloak for her, 4¼ ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £8 10s.

Item to walt þis cloke half ane elne and half ane quarter fyne blak weluet price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa xlvj s x d ob

Item, to trim this cloak, ⅝ ell of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 46s 10½d.

The total should be 46s 10½d.

394

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to Johnne Andersoun tailȝeour for making of þis pe—xij s

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of this cloak, 12s.

Item to him for making of þis goune of tanny veluet—xxiiij s

Item, to him for making of this gown of tawny velvet, 24s.

Item for making of tua paitclaithis þe ane of tanny veluet and þe uþer of blak sating—iiij s

Item, for making of two partlets, the one of tawny velvet and the other of black satin, 4s.

Item for making of ane kirtill of champit veluet—v s

Item, for making of a kirtle of patterned velvet, 5s.

Item for making of þe gorgett—iiij s

Item, for making of the gorget, 4s.

Item for making of þe hude furnist with thre doubill coronettis—x s [613]

Item, for making of the hood furnished with three double cornets, 10s.

November 1551 Item vjo nouembris deliuerit to Johnne andersoun tailȝeour tway elnis blak welwet to be ane partclaith and vþeris small necessaris to my lady price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, November 6th, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 2 ells of black velvet to be a partlet, and other small necessities for my lady, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item ane elne of blak satin to lyne þe hude and cornettis and vþeris small necessaris price þairof—xl s

Item, an ell of black satin to line the hood and cornets, and other small necessities, price thereof 40s.

Item quarter and half quarter taffiteis to lyne þis partclayt price þairof—vj s

Item, ⅜ ell of taffeta to line this partlet, price thereof 6s.

Item for making of þis hude and partclait and for silk to sew þame with—xiiij s [659]

Item, for making of this hood and partlet, and for silk to sew them with, 14s.

January 1551/52 Item xiiijto Januarii send to lynlithqw to my laday xvj elnis round holand claith tobe sarkis price of þe elne viij s Summa—vj li viij s

Item, January 14th, sent to Linlithgow to my Lady, 16 ells of heavy Holland cloth, to be smocks, price of each ell 8s; total: £6 8s.

Item mair send to hir viij elnis small cambreche clayt price of þe elne xvj s Summa— vj li viij s

Item, also sent to her 8 ells of fine cambric cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: £6 8s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 39 5

Item vj quarteris stemmyng of myllane tobe hir hois price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—lvij s

Item, 1½ ells of stemming of Milan to be hose for her, price of each ell 38s; total: 57s.

Item ane wardygard to hir price þairof—iij li x s

Item, a safeguard for her, price thereof £3 10s.

Item deliuerit to Johnne andersoun tailȝeoure tobe hir ane nyt gowne ix elne and ane half and half ane quarter tanny dames price of þe elne xl s Summa—xix li v s

Item, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a night gown for her, 9⅝ ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 40s; total: £19 5s.

Item half ane elne tanny welwett to walt þe samyn price þairof—xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of tawny velvet to trim the same, price thereof 35s.

Item ane elne of bukkrame to þe samyn price þairof—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram for the same, price thereof 4s.

Item to Johnne crage furrour for furring of þe samyn in þe foir quarteris and slevis thairof wt cunnyngis and þe bak wt lambskynnis—vj li

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the same in the forequarters and sleeves thereof with rabbit and the back with lamb skins, £6.

Item to Johnne andersoun tailȝeour for making of þe said gowne—xvj s [674]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of the said gown, 16s.

Item thre quarteris blak welwett deliuerit to þe said homeir tobe schone and pantonis to my lady price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—lij s vj d [675]

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet delivered to the said Homer to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for my Lady, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 52s 6d.

Item to homeir leis for buttis and schone furnist to my lord gouernour, and schone and pantonis to his graces lady and barnis fra þe xxviij day of september last bipast to þis day conforme to þe said homeris byll of compt heir present to schaw—v li [677]

Item, to Homer Leis for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor, and shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for his grace’s lady and children, from the 28th day of September last past to this day, conforming to the said Homer’s bill of account which is here present to show, £5.

Item xvijo Januarii ane boy send to lynlytqw wt holand claitht and cambreche claitht to my lady and his wage—iiij s

Item, January 17th, a boy sent to Linlithgow with Holland cloth and cambric cloth to my Lady, and his wage, 4s.

…

…

Item xxvjo Januarij ane boy send to lynlytqw wt ane nyt gowne of tanny dames to my lady and his wage—iij s [690]

Item, January 26th, a boy sent to Linlithgow with a night gown of tawny damask to my Lady, and his wage, 3s.

39 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

February 1551/52 Item Quarto februarii deliuerit to Johnne andersoune tailȝeour tobe ane gowne to my lady ix elnis and ane half fyne tanny welwett price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xxxv li xij s vj d

Item, February 4th, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a gown for my lady, 9½ ells of fine tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £35 12s 6d.

Item fyve elnis lyning gray to þis gowne price of þe elne v s Summa—xxv s

Item, 5 ells of lining gray for this gown, price of each ell 5s; total: 25s.

Item for claspis and canves to lyne þe bodyis of þe samyn—v s

Item, for clasps and canvas to line the bodies of the same, 5s.

Item ane elne of taffateis of foure thredis to lyne þe skyrtis of þis gowne price þairof—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta of four threads to line the skirts of this gown, price thereof 16s.

Item tway elnis blak bukcrame to lyne ane skyrt of ane kyrtyll of figurett welwett to hir the welwett gottin furth of my lord gouernouris garderob price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of black buckram to line a skirt of a kirtle of figured velvet for her, the velvet gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item ane quarter of braid inglis reid to lyne þe neþir part of þis skyrt price þairof—vij s

Item, ¼ ell of broad English red to line the nether part of this skirt, price thereof 7s.

Item to þe said Johnne for making of þis gowne and skyrt—xxx s [691]

Item, to the said John for making of this gown and skirt, 30s.

Item quarto februarii ane hors hyrit to Johnne andersoune to ryde to lynly tqw to tak my ladyis mesour for making of certane clething to hir—x s [696]

Item, February 4th, a horse rented for John Anderson to ride to Linlithgow to take my lady’s measure for making of certain clothing for her, 10s.

March 1551/52 Item secundo marcii deliuerit to Johnne Andersoune tailȝeour tobe ane kyrtyll to my lady v elnis gray armosy taffiteis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li

Item, March 2nd, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a kirtle for my lady, 5 ells of gray armosene taffeta, price of each ell 36s; total: £9.

Item tway elnis bukcassy to lyne þe bodyis of þis kirtill price of þe elne vij s Summa— xiiij s

Item, 2 ells of bocasin to line the bodies of this kirtle, price of each ell 7s; total: 14s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 397

Item ij elnis and ane half elne demigrane tobe hir ane vilycoit price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells demigrain, to be a petticoat for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item v quarteris canves to turs þir clathis in to hammyltoune price of þe elne iij s Summa—iij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to carry these clothes into Hamilton, price of each ell 3s; total: 3s 9d.

Item to Johnne andersoune tailȝeour for makin of þe samyn—viij s [699]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of the same, 8s.

Item to maister andro send with certane clething of my ladyis to hammyltoun and his wage—xij s [702]

Item, to Master Andrew, sent with certain clothing of my lady’s to Hamilton, and his wage, 12s.

July 1552 Item vjto Julij deliuerit to Schir Johnne Castellaw seruand to my lady xiiij elnis blak welwet to be hir ane lang talit gowne price of þe elne iiij li Summa—lvj li

Item, July 6th, delivered to Sir John Castellaw, servant to my lady, 14 ells of black velvet, to be a long-trained gown for her, price of each ell £4; total: £56.

Item foure Elnis taffiteis of foure threidis to lyne þe samyn price of þe Elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item ix elnis thre quarteris and ane half quarter fyne blak satin to be hir ane kyrtyll price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xxj li xiiij s vj d

Item, 9⅞ ells of fine black satin to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 44s; total: £21 14s 6d.

Item x elnis purpour satin to be hir ane vþir kyrtill price of þe elne xl s Summa—xx li

Item, 10 ells of purple satin to be another kirtle for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £20.

Item foure Elnis frenche reid to lyne þir kyrtillis price of þe elne xxviij s Summa— v li xij s

Item, 4 ells of French red to line these kirtles, price of each ell 28s; total: £5 12s.

Item viij elnis blak satin to be hir ane nyt gowne price of þe elne xlv s Summa—xviij li

Item, 8 ells of black satin to be a night gown for her, price of each ell 45s; total: £18.

Item maire foure elnis blak welwet to be hir hudis partclaytis and vþeris necessaris price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xvj li

Item, 4 more ells of black velvet to be hoods, partlets, and other necessities for her, price of each ell £4; total: £16.

Item x quarteris blak satin to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—v li x s

Item, 2½ ells of black satin to line the same, price of each ell 44s; total: £5 10s.

39 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item thre vnce sewing silk to þir claithtis price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 3 ounces of sewing silk for these clothes, price of each ounce 8s; total: 24s.

Item thre elnis canves tobe bodyis to þir kirtillis price of þe elne iiij s vj Summa—xiij s vj d [734]

Item, 3 ells of canvas to be bodies for these kirtles, price of each ell 4s 6[d]; total: 13s 6d.

January 1552/53 Item xxo Januarii to Jhone andersoun tailȝeoure to be his expensis he being send to hammiltoun to mak clathis to my ladye gouernour—xxiij s

Item, January 20th, to John Anderson, tailor, to be his expenses, he being sent to Hamilton to make clothes for my lady governor, 23s.

Item ane hors hyrit to þe said Jhone to ryde vpoun—xiiij s [783]

Item, a horse rented for the said John to ride upon, 14s.

February 1552/53 Item iiijto februarii deliuerrit to Jhone andersoune tailȝeour ix elnis fyne blak welwote to be ane goun to my ladye þe elne iiij li Summa—xxxvj li

Item, February 4th, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 9 ells of fine black velvet to be a gown for my Lady, each ell £4; total: £36.

Item foure elnis and ane half gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xx s iij d

Item, 4½ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 20s 3d.

Item vj quarteris fustiane to lyne the slewis þairof—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of fustian to line the sleeves thereof, 6s.

Item for canves to þe bodyis of it—ij s

Item, for canvas for the bodies of it, 2s.

Item for glaspis to it—xij d

Item, for clasps for it, 12d.

Item tua elnis and ane half taffate of foure thredis to lyne þe talis of it & to lyne hir paitlattis and gorgettis þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta of four threads to line the hem of it, and to line her partlets and gorgets, each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item vj quarteris blak sating to be cornettis gorgettis & other necessares to hir þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of black satin to be cornets, gorgets, and other necessities for her, each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item vj quarteris bukrum to lyne þe slewis of ane sating goun to hir þe sating furnist before in þe last compte þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to line the sleeves of a satin gown for her, the satin furnished before in the last account, each ell 4s; total: 6s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 39 9

Item foure elnis and ane half gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xx s iij d

Item, 4½ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 20s 3d.

Item for canves to lyne þe bodyis of þe same—ij s

Item, for canvas to line the bodies of the same, 2s.

Item foure elnis and ane half gray to lyne a other goun of satyng þe sating furnist before in þe last comptis þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xx s iij d

Item, 4½ ells of gray to line another gown of satin, the satin furnished before in the last account, each ell 4s 6d; total: 20s 3d.

Item for bukrum to lyne tua paitlattis ane of sating and ane oþer of welwote—iij s

Item, for buckram to line two partlets, one of satin, and another of velvet, 3s.

Item x quarteris fustiane to lyne ane doublat of blak welwote to my ladye þe welwote furnist in the last compte þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xj s iij d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to line a doublet of black velvet for my Lady, the velvet furnished in the last account, each ell 4s 6d; total: 11s 3d.

Item ane elne of bukrum to lyne ane skyrt of blak welwote to my ladye—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line a skirt of black velvet for my Lady, 4s.

Item iij elnis and ane half gray fustiane to lyne ane doublat to hir and ane skyrt of fygurat welwote þe welwote gottin furthe of my lorde gouernoures gardrap þe elne v s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of gray fustian to line a doublet for her, and a skirt of figured velvet, the velvet gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, each ell 5s; total: 17s 6d.

Item ane dosoun and ane half buttonis to þis doublat price—iij s [784]

Item, 18 buttons for this doublet, price 3s.

Item foure elnis fyne claith of þe seill of rowane to be ane ryding cloke and ane skyrt to hir þe elne iij li Summa—xij li

Item, 4 ells of fine cloth of the seal of Rouen to be a riding cloak and a skirt for her, each ell £3; total: £12.

Item tua elnis & ane quartar fyne blak welwote to bordoure þis cloke and skyrt þe elne iiij li Summa—ix li

Item, 2¼ ells of fine black velvet to border this cloak and skirt, each ell £4; total: £9.

Item tua vnce and ane half of steking silk to sew on þir bordoures þe vnce viij s Summa—xx s

Item, 2½ ounces of sewing silk to sew on these borders, each ounce 8s; total: 20s.

Item vj elnis reid vnwaterit champlat to be hir ane vylecote þe elne viij s Summa— xlviij s

Item, 6 ells of red unwatered camlet to be a petticoat for her, each ell 8s; total: 48s.

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Item for canves to lyne þe bodyis of þe same—ij s

Item, for canvas to line the bodies of the same, 2s.

Item mair deliuerrit to þe said Jhone v quarteris blak welwote to be talis to hudis to hir þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, also delivered to the said John 1¼ ells of black velvet to be tails of hoods for her, each ell £4; total: £5.

Item x quarteris crammosye sating to be hir ane skyrt and ane pair of slewis þe elne iiij li Summa—x li

Item, 2½ ells of crimson satin to be a skirt and a pair of sleeves for her, each ell £4; total: £10.

Item x quarteris gray sating to be hir ane other skyrt & a pair of slewis þe elne xlij s Summa—v li v s

Item, 2½ ells of gray satin to be another skirt and a pair of sleeves for her, each ell 42s; total: £5 5s.

Item vj elnis lyning fustiane to lyne thyr skyrttis slewis, and oþer skyrttis & slewis furnist of before þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxvij s

Item, 6 ells of lining fustian to line these skirts, sleeves, and other skirts and sleeves furnished before, each ell 4s 6d; total: 27s.

Item v quarteris blak sating to be small necessaris to hir hudis þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of black satin to be small necessities for her hoods, each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item thre elnis robanis to be browbandis & fals garnesingis to hir price—iij s

Item, 3 ells of ribbons to be browbands and false garnishings for her, price 3s.

Item to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour for making of þis foresaid clethyng viz tua gownnis of sating ane goun of welwote wt paitlattis hudis skyrttis slevis gorgettis furnesing of glaspis & oþer necessars—viij li xvj s

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of this aforesaid clothing, namely two gowns of satin, a gown of velvet with partlets, hoods, skirts, sleeves, gorgets, furnishing of clasps and other necessities, £8 16s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furring of ane vylecote of reid vnwaterit champlat to hir with quhite lamb skynnes—xxx s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of a petticoat of red unwatered camlet for her with white lamb skins, 30s.

Item to Jhone couchrane broudstar for cutting out of ane pair of slevis & ane skyrt of crammosy sating, and ane skyrt & ane pair of slewis of gray sating—xl s

Item, to John Cochran, embroiderer, for cutting out of a pair of sleeves and a skirt of crimson satin, and a skirt and a pair of sleeves of gray satin, 40s.

Item ane hat of welwote to hir—l s

Item, a hat of velvet for her, 50s.

Item vj quarteris taffate to put aboute hir heid þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to put about her head, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item iij elnis canves to turs þir clathis furt of Edinburght in to hammiltoun þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—vij s [785]

Item, 3 ells of canvas to carry these clothes forth from Edinburgh in to Hamilton, each ell 2s 4d; total: 7s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 40 1

July 1553 Item deliuerit to þe said robert tua elnis blak welwot to be slewis schone and pantonis to my lady price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, delivered to the said Robert, 2 ells of black velvet to be sleeves, shoes, and slippers [or overshoes] for my Lady, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

Item tua pair of gluffis to my ladye gouernour—viij s

Item, two pairs of gloves for my Lady governor, 8s.

Item ane spunge price þairof—v s [822]

Item, a sponge, price thereof, 5s.

Lady Margaret Douglas, the Regent’s Wife: Wardrobe Summaries Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary January 1542/43 mourning cap of state (Paris black) [1] March 1542/43 riding cloak (scarlet trimmed with crimson velvet) [23] cornets (black velvet and black satin) [23] partlets (black velvet and black satin) [23] kirtle (grey satin lined with demigrain) [23] April 1543 4 ells of cambric [28] June 1543 gorgets (black satin lined with black taffeta) [43] November 1543 partlet (velvet lined with taffeta) [54, 59] sleeves (black satin) [59] October 1544 hose (utterfine) [91] sleeves (yellow velvet) [91]

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kirtle (yellow velvet with yellow satin bodies lined with black gray, the scyes lined with demigrain) [91] gown (lined with black gray) [91] taffeta to draw forth sleeves [91] November 1544 cornets for her hoods (black satin) [99] taffeta to draw forth sleeves [99] 3 ells black velvet [99] 24 ells of Holland cloth [101] 1 ell of crimson satin [101] petticoat (scarlet) [101] 24 ells ribbons [101] 6 ounces white and black silk thread [101] 1 pound fine linen thread [101] riding shoes [101] February 1544/45 gown (fine frieze) [115] 9 ells tawny velvet [115] 3 ells taffeta of four threads [115] 1½ ells black velvet [115] 1 ell gray fustian [115] 1 ell canvas [115] 1 ell Bruges satin [115] October 1549 2 hoods (fine black velvet) [501] March 1549/50 gown (fine black velvet, foreskirts lined with taffeta of the cord) [532] hoods (fine black velvet lined with black satin) [532] partlets (fine black velvet) [532] gorgets (black satin) [532] kirtle (gray satin) [532] night gown (fine tawny satin trimmed with tawny velvet, furred with rabbit, the furring lined with buckram) [532] silks [541] May 1550 kirtle (crimson satin lined with red) [555] sleeves (crimson satin lined with red) [555] cloak (scarlet trimmed with crimson velvet) [555] an ounce of silk [555]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 403

silks [590] November 1550 gown (tawny velvet, the foreskirts lined with taffeta of four threads, lined with gray, edged with spotted ermine, the bodies lined with buckram) [613] partlet for this gown (tawny velvet) [613] kirtle (patterned velvet lined with gray, the scyes trimmed with English red broadcloth) [613] hood (black velvet lined with fine black satin and taffeta of the cord) [613] 3 double cornets (fine black satin) [613] partlet (black satin lined with taffeta of the cord) [613] gorgets (black satin lined with taffeta of the cord) [613] riding cloak (French black trimmed with fine black velvet) [613] November 1551 partlet (black velvet lined with taffeta) [659] hood and cornets (black velvet lined with black satin) [659] January 1551/52 smocks (heavier Holland cloth) [674] 8 ells fine cambric [674] hose (stemming of Milan) [674] safeguard [674] night gown (tawny damask trimmed with tawny velvet, furred with rabbit in the forequarters and sleeves and in the back with lamb, the furring lined with buckram) [674, 690] shoes (black velvet) [675] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [675] Holland cloth [690] cambric cloth [690] February 1551/52 gown (tawny velvet, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, the skirts lined with taffeta of four threads, fastened with hooks and eyes) [691] skirt (figured velvet, the skirt lined with black buckram, the lower part of the skirt lined with English red broadcloth) [691] March 1551/52 kirtle (gray armosene taffeta, the bodies lined with buckram) [699] petticoat (demigrain) [699] July 1552 gown with a long train (black velvet lined with taffeta of four threads) [734] kirtle (fine black satin lined with French red, the bodies of [or lined with] canvas) [734] kirtle (purple satin lined with French red, the bodies of [or lined with] canvas) [734]

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night gown (black satin) [734] hoods (black velvet lined with black satin) [734] partlets (black velvet lined with black satin) [734] February 1552/53 gown (satin, lined with gray, the sleeves lined with buckram, the bodies with canvas)20 [784] gown (satin lined with gray) [784] gown (fine black velvet lined with gray, the sleeves lined with fustian, the bodies with canvas, the hems with taffeta of four threads, fastened with hooks and eyes) [784] partlet (satin lined with taffeta of four threads and buckram) [784] partlet (velvet lined with taffeta of four threads and buckram) [784] gorgets (black satin lined with taffeta of four threads) [784] cornets (black satin) [784] doublet (black velvet lined with fustian) [784] skirt (black velvet lined with buckram) [784] doublet (lined with gray fustian, with 18 buttons) [784] skirt (figured velvet lined with gray fustian) [784] riding cloak and skirt (fine cloth of the seal of Rouen bordered with fine black velvet) [785] petticoat (red unwatered camlet, furred, the bodies lined with canvas) [785] [hoods]—these are not a line item on their own, but they are included in a summary of charges for making various items and were provided with “small necessities” of black satin [785] tails of hoods (black velvet) [785] browbands and false garnishings (ribbons) [785] skirt (crimson satin, slashed or pinked, lined with fustian) [785] pair of sleeves (crimson satin, slashed or pinked, lined with fustian) [785] skirt (gray satin, slashed or pinked, lined with fustian) [785] pair of sleeves (gray satin, slashed or pinked, lined with fustian) [785] hat (velvet) [785] taffeta to put about her head [785] July 1553 sleeves (black velvet) [822] shoes (black velvet) [822] slippers [or overshoes] (black velvet) [822] 2 pairs of gloves [822]

Summary by Category Gowns velvet gowns [532, 613, 691, 734, 784] other gowns [91, 115, 784]  20

This satin gown and the next are provided with linings, buckram, and canvas, but the satin is said to have been provided in a previous account. Which account that might be remains a mystery.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 40 5

Night Gowns [532, 674/690, 734] Kirtles satin kirtles [23, 532, 555, 734] velvet kirtles [91, 613, 691] taffeta kirtle [699] Skirts [784, 785] Safeguard [674] Doublets [784] Petticoats [101, 699, 785] Cloaks riding cloaks [23, 613, 785] scarlet21 cloak [555] Sleeves satin sleeves [59, 555, 785] velvet sleeves [91, 822] taffeta to draw forth sleeves [91, 99] Partlets velvet partlets [23, 54, 59, 532, 613, 659, 734, 784] satin partlets [23, 613, 784] Gorgets [43, 532, 613, 784] Smocks [674] Hat [785]

 21

This is a fabric name rather than a color name.

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Hoods and hood parts velvet hoods [501, 532, 613, 659, 734, 785] velvet cornets [23, 659] satin cornets [23, 99, 613, 784] other hood parts [785] Other Headwear mourning cap of state [1] taffeta to put about her head [785] Hose [91, 674] Footwear riding shoes [101] shoes [675, 822] slippers [or overshoes] [675, 822] Gloves [822] Fabric and notions cambric [28, 674, 690] Holland cloth [101, 690] other fabrics [99, 101, 115, 541, 590] thread and ribbons [101, 555]

H A LF- SI STER S A ND SISTE R S -IN-L AW Helen, the Regent’s only legitimate full sister, was not granted clothing in the regency Accounts. He also had sisters-in-law and eight to ten illegitimate half-sisters,22 several of whom received clothing. Because the Regent’s father had children by several different women, some of them have the same name. They are listed below in alphabetical order by first name.

Elizabeth Hamilton, Mistress of Sempill Elizabeth, a half-sister, married Robert, Master of Sempill.23 The Regent paid her tocher, or dowry.24 She received the basic components for four ensembles usually consisting of a  22

Hamilton, History, 13–14; Paul, Peerage, 4:364–65. Son of Robert, third Lord Sempill. Paul, Peerage, 4:365. The contract was dated May 27, 1543.  24 NRS E21/41/58r.  23



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 407

good-quality wool kirtle and gown, the gown often trimmed with velvet that was also used for a partlet and hood, and sometimes a cloak. April 1544 Item þe xxiij day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis sister elizabeth hammiltoun xij elnis chamlot to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, the 23rd day of April by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s sister Elizabeth Hamilton, 12 ells of camlet to be a gown for her, price of each ell 12s; total: £7 4s.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis and ane half lylis worsat price of þe elne xv s Summa—iiij li xvij s vj d

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 6½ ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £4 17s 6d.

Item to be hir ane hude and quarnot and to begary þe said goun tua elnis and half ane quarter blak welwot price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li x s

Item, to be a hood and cornet for her, and to trim the said gown, 2⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £8 10s.

Item iij quarteris blak sating to be hir ane paitlat and to lyne hir said hude and quarnat price þairof—xxix s ix d

Item, ¾ ell of black satin to be a partlet for her, and to line her said hood and cornet, price thereof 29s 9d.

Item to lyne the sychtis of hir kirtill thre elnis franche reid price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, to line the scyes of her kirtle, 3 ells of French red, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

Item vj elnis bukram to lyne þe bodyis and slevis of þe said goun and kirtill price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to line the bodies and sleeves of the said gown and kirtle, price of each ell 4s; total: 24s.

Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command gevin to his gracis sister to pay for þe making of þir foresaid clathis and to by hir certane other necessaris thre crownis of þe sonne—iij li vj s [83]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, given to his grace’s sister to pay for the making of these aforesaid clothes, and to buy her certain other necessities, three crowns of the sun, £3 6s.

March 1544/45 Item þe xviij day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis sister Elizabeth hammiltoun þe maister of sympillis wyf ix elnis paris blak to be hir ane goun and cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xvj li iiij s

Item, the 18th day of March, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s sister, Elizabeth Hamilton, the Master of Sempill’s wife, 9 ells of Paris black to be a gown and cloak for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £16 4s.

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Item þe samyn day viij elnis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—vj li

Item, the same day, 8 ells of worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £6.

Item thre elnis welwot to bordour and narve hir said goun kirtill and cloke and to be hir ane hude patlot and quarnat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, 3 ells of velvet to border and trim her said gown, kirtle, and cloak, and to be a hood, partlet, and cornet for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item vjj elnis blak gray to lyne þe said goun and kirtill price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 7 ells of black gray to line the said gown and kirtle, price of each ell 3s; total: 21s.

Item ane elne and ane half of braid reid to lyne þe sychtis of þe said kirtill price þairof—xxx s

Item, 1½ ells of broad red to line the scyes of the said kirtill, price thereof 30s.

Item half ane elne of sating to be ane other quarnat and myssell price þairof—xx s

Item, ½ ell of satin to be another cornet and muffler, price thereof 20s.

Item half ane elne of taffate to lyne hir hude price—viij s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta to line her hood, price 8s.

Item v quarteris of canves to lyne þe bodyis of þe goun and kirtill price—ij s xj d [121]

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to line the bodies of the gown and kirtle, price 2s 11d.

January 1546/47 Item, xxto Januarii be his graces precept to his sister Elizabeth maistres of sympill xviij elnis tannye chamlot to be hir ane goun and ane kirtill price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, January 20th, by his grace’s precept for his sister Elizabeth, mistress of Sempill, 18 ells tawny camlet to be a gown and a kirtle for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £14 8s.

Item thre elnis blak welwote to bordoure þe same price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item xij elnis blak gray to lyne þir clathis price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 12 ells of black gray to line these clothes, price of each ell 4s; total: 48s.

Item ane elne of reid to lyne þe sychtis of þe said kirtill price—xxiiij s

Item, an ell of red to line the scyes of the said kirtle, price 24s.

Item fyve elnis vnprest blak to be hir ane cloke w t slevis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li

Item, 5 ells of unpressed black to be a cloak with sleeves for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £9.

Item ane elne of sating price—xl s

Item, an ell of satin, price 40s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 40 9

Item ane silk hate price—xxij s

Item, a silk hat, price 22s.

Item ane elne of taffate price—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta, price 16s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xxiiij s

Item, for making of these clothes, 24s.

Item ix quartaris canves to turs þir clathis In price—vij s vj d [266]

Item, 2¼ ells of canvas to carry these clothes in, price 7s 6d.

August 1548 Item foure elnis pareis blak to be Elizabeth hammiltoun maistres of sympill ane goun þe elne lij s Summa—x li viij s

Item, 4 ells of Paris black to be a gown for Elizabeth Hamilton, Mistress of Sempill, each ell 52s; total: £10 8s.

Item viij elnis chamlat to be hir ane kirtill þe elne xij s vj d Summa—v li

Item, 8 ells of camlet to be a kirtle for her, each ell 12s 6d; total: £5.

Item ij elnis & a half welwote to be hir hude and paitlat & to begarye hir goun þe elne iij li x s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of velvet to be a hood and partlet for her and to trim her gown, each ell £3 10s; total: £8 15s.

Item ane elne of braid reid to þe sychtis of hir kirtill—xxvj s viij d

Item, an ell of broad red for the scyes of her kirtle, 26s 8d.

Item viij elnis blak gray to be lyninges þe elne iiij s—xxxij s

Item, 8 ells of black gray to be linings, each ell 4s; total: 32s.

Item ane elne of sating—xxxvj s [398]

Item, an ell of satin, 36s.

Isabel Bannatyne, Lady Corehouse Isabel, also called Isabella in some peerages, was wife to John Bannatyne of Corehouse and a half-sister of the Regent.25 The clothing she was given was of good, but not the best, quality, although a few nicer pieces appear in the list. To balance the gown and kirtle of relatively cheap 15s-per-ell camlet trimmed with velvet, she received a gown of 40s black wool and a skirt of satin, and she wore the hood of a gentlewoman.

 25

Hamilton, History, 13; Paul, Peerage, 4:365.

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February 1546/47 Item xiiijto februarii to Maistres Issobell, his gracis sister be his spetiall commande—xj li

Item, February 14th, to Mistress Isabel, his grace’s sister, by his special command, £11.

Item gevin to Jhonne andersoun for making of hir clathis and ane part of furnesing þairto as his compt beris—vj li xviij d [272]

Item, given to John Anderson for making of her clothes and a part of the materials thereto, as his account bears out, £6 18d.

October 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces sister þe ladye corehous vij elnis and ane half reid champlat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—v li v s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s sister, the Lady Corehouse, 7½ ells of red camlet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 14s; total: £5 5s.

Item xj elnis broun champlat to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xv s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, 11 ells brown camlet to be a gown for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £8 15s.26

Item to begary þe same tua elnis and ane half of welwote price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—ix li v s [409]

Item, to trim the same, 2½ ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £9 5s.27

April 1553

 26

Item be his graces precept and spetiall commande deliuerrit to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour foure elnis and ane half vnprest blak to be ane goun to þe Ladye corehous þe elne xl s Summa—ix li

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 4½ ells of unpressed black to be a gown for the Lady Corehouse, each ell 40s; total: £9.

Item thre quartaris welwote to wat þe same price—iij li

Item, ¾ ell of velvet to trim the same, price £3.

Item x quartaris gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—x s

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item for silk to put on þe wat of þis goun— iiij s

Item, for silk to sew on the trim of this gown, 4s.

Item for canves and glaspis to thys goune— iij s vj d

Item, for canvas and clasps for this gown, 3s 6d.

The total should be £8 5s. The total should be £9 7s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were £3 14s instead of £3 15s.

 27



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 11

Item vij quartaris blak welwote to be hir ane hude and paitlat þe elne iiij li Summa— vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of black velvet to be a hood and partlet for her, each ell £4; total £7.

Item half ane elne of taffateis of foure thridis to lyne þe hude—viij s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta of four threads to line the hood, 8s.

Item for silk to þe hude and paitlat—iij s

Item, for silk for the hood and partlet, 3s.

Item for bukrum to lyne ane paitlat—xviij d

Item, for buckram to line a partlet, 18d.

Item vj quartaris tannye sating to be hir ane skyrt þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of tawny satin to be a skirt for her, each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item vj qarterris lylis woursat to be hir ane oþer skyrt þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 1½ ells of Lille worsted to be another skirt for her, each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item vij quartaris gray to lyne þe tua skyrttis þe elne iiij s Summa—vij s

Item, 1¾ ells of gray to line the two skirts, each ell 4s; total: 7s.

Item to þe said Jhone for makyng of þe goune and paitlat of clayth xiiij s And for makyng of þe hude and paitlat of welwote x s And for þe making of tua skyrttis v s Summa—xxix s

Item, to the said John for making of the gown and partlet of cloth, 14s, and for making of the hood and partlet of velvet, 10s; and for the making of two skirts, 5s; total: 29s.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þir clathis in to linlitqw—ij s

Item, an ell of canvas to carry these clothes in to Linlithgow, 2s.

Item ane boy þt turssit þe samyn thair—iij s [811]

Item, [to] a boy that carried the same there, 3s.

Jean Boswell, Lady Auchinlek Lady Auchinlek was another half-sister, married to David Boswell of Auchinleck in 1531–32.28 The purpose of the materials granted is vague, but given the lengths and types of fabric, it is likely that the damask was for a kirtle and the worsted for a gown (although 12 ells is rather generous). The edges of the gown would have been lined with the red kersey and the rest with lining gray. There was enough velvet to trim both gown and kirtle, and both probably had the bodies stiffened with canvas. The extra lengths of buckram and canvas follow directly on the previous grant but may or may not be for Jean.

 28

Hamilton, History, 13.

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February 1546/47 Item xxix februarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to the Ladye auchinlek and furnist be Jhonne Achisoun tailȝeour vj elnis dalmes price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—x li xvj s

Item, February 29th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to the Lady Auchinlek, and furnished by John Acheson, tailor, 6 ells of damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £10 16s.

Item to hir xij elnis lylis worsate price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—viij li viij s

Item, 12 ells of Lille worsted to her, price of each ell 14s; total: £8 8s.

Item tua elnis reid cairsay to lyne þe sychtis of þis goun price of þe elne vij s Summa— xiiij s

Item, 2 ells of red kersey to line the scyes of this goun, price of each ell 7s; total: 14s.

Item xij elnis lyning gray price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 12 ells of lining gray, price of each ell 4s; total: 48s.

Item tua elnis and ane quartar canves price of þe samyn—vij s

Item, 2¼ ells of canvas, price of the same, 7s.

Item tua elnis and ane half of welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £8 15s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xxx s [276]

Item, for making of these clothes, 30s.

Item ane elne of bukrame—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram, 4s.

Item tua elnis & ane quartar canves price— vij s vj d [277]

Item, 2¼ ells of canvas, price 7s 6d.

Jean/Janet Cunningham, Mistress of Kilmaurs Another half-sister named Jean, also known as Janet, Mistress of Kilmaurs, was married to Alexander Cunningham, Master of Glencairn, son of William Cunningham, fourth Earl of Glencairn but divorced before July 11, 1545.29 In addition to the few entries below, Paul transcribed another line item for the Mistress of Kilmaurs from the subsequent page which included the phrase “armosy satyng to be hir ane goun, and other necessaris”30 [armosene satin to be a gown for her, and other necessities]. However, this is a badly damaged portion of the manuscript, and his transcription was in error. Although armosene taffeta is frequently cited, no other mention of armosene satin appears within the regency Accounts, making that an unlikely transcription, and the word  29

Ibid.; Paul, Peerage, 4:241. Cunningham also held title to the barony of Kilmaurs, though according to Paul (4:240) not until 1552.  30 Paul, Accounts, 8:428.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 13

goun (gown) is definitely absent from this entry in the manuscript. The text of the end of that phrase seems to instead read “meit drink and other necessaris”31 [meat, drink, and other necessities]. December 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command for fyve elnis paris blak to be ane ryding goun to his gracis sister þe maistres of kylmawris price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xj li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for 5 ells of Paris black to be a riding gown for his grace’s sister, the Mistress of Kilmaurs, price of each ell 44s; total: £11.

Item fyve elnis paris blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xj li

Item, 5 ells of Paris black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 44s; total: £11.

Item tua elnis welwot price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li [174]

Item, 2 ells of velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

Jean Hamilton These grants could well be for either of the above Jeans, or another half-sister also named Jean, but there is no indication of which one. June 1545 Item þe xxj day of Junij be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis sister Gene Hammiltoun certane clething extending to þe avale and sowme of—xviij li x s [147]

Item, the 21st day of June, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s sister, Jean Hamilton, certain clothing, extending to the value and sum of £18 10s.

August 1546

 31

Item þe ferd day of august be my lord gouervoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis sister gene hammiltoun fyve elnis paris blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xlij s Summa—x li x s

Item, the 3rd day of August, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s sister, Jean Hamilton, 5 ells of Paris black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 42s; total: £10 10s.

Item be þe sam precept deliuerrit to hir to be ane kirtill ix elnis lylis warsate price of þe elne xv s Summa—vj li xv s

Item, by the same precept, delivered to her to be a kirtle 9 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £6 15s.

NRS E21/41/191r.

4 14

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Item tua elnis and ane half of welwot to bordoure þe said kirtill and goun price of þe elne iij li Summa viij s Summa—viij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of velvet to border the said kirtle and gown, price of each ell £3 total 8s; total: £8 10s.

Item vj elnis bukram to lyne þe sychtis of þe said goun price of þe elne v s Summa— xxx s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to line the scyes of the said gown, price of each ell 5s; total: 30s.

Item xij elnis gray price of þe elne xl d Summa—xl s [211]

Item, 12 ells of gray, price of each ell 40d; total: 40s.

Margaret?, Lady Wemyss Lady Wemyss, referred to as “his grace’s sister,” is slightly mysterious but may be Margaret, widow of the Regent’s half-brother Sir James Hamilton of Finnart. She was the heiress of Robert Livingstone of Drumry and East Wemyss,32 so it is not impossible that she was styled Lady Wemyss once a widow. By 1547 she had remarried to John Wemyss of Pittencrieff,33 and if the marriage took place before her entry in the Accounts, that would be a more likely explanation of her title.34 In addition to some very expensive black for her cloak, Lady Wemyss received the only Scottish hood mentioned in the regency Accounts. May 1545

 32

Item þe viij day of Maii be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command deliuerit to his gracis sister þe lady wemyss iiij elnis fyne blak to be hir ane cloke price of þe elne iij li Summa—xij li

Item, the 8th day of May, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to his grace’s sister, the Lady Wemyss, 4 ells of fine black to be a cloak for her, price of each ell £3; total: £12

Item half ane elne of welwot to be hir ane scottis hude price thairof—xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be a Scottish hood for her, price thereof 35s.

Item v quarteris taffate to lyne þe said hude & do other necessaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xx s [140]

Item, 1¼ ells of taffeta to line the said hood and do other necessities, price of each ell 16s; total: 20s.

Paul, Peerage, 4:361. Bain, Calendar, 48 (in which the wife of John Wemyss is referred to as the governor’s half-sister in a letter of 1547); Paul, Peerage, 4:362.  34 Hamilton (History, 13–14) posits an unknown half-sister of the Regent married to Lord Wemyss.  33



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 15

Unknown These anonymous sisters received various items for keeping fashionably warm, including the only thrum hats in the regency Accounts. Unlike the unstructured thrum caps popular with sailors, these were probably stiffened hats with a silk pile on the surface. April 1543 Item deliuerit to Jhonne andersone tailȝeour tobe twa Ryding clokis to my lordis sistaris vij elnis quarter elne scottis blak, price of the elne xxij s Summa—vij li xix s vj d

Item, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be two riding cloaks for my lord’s sisters, 7¼ ells of Scottish black, price of each ell 22s; total: £7 19s 6d.

Item deliuerit to geit þe saidis clokis ane elne blak veluet, price þairof—lvj s

Item, delivered to trim the said cloaks, an ell of black velvet, price thereof 56s.

Item deliuerit to þame twa thrum hattis of silk price of þe pece xiiij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, delivered to them two thrum hats of silk, price of the piece 14s; total: 28s.

Item gevin for half ane elne blak teffites of Janis to be þame tepettis—viij s [30]

Item, given for ½ ell of black taffeta of Genoa to be tippets for them, 8s.

DAUGHTE R S Barbara Hamilton (Lady Gordon) The eldest of the Regent’s daughters, Barbara, was born around 1533 and married twice, first to Alexander Gordon, the heir to the Earl of Huntly (February 1548/49?),35 and next to James, Lord Fleming (December 1553).36 Barbara received more clothing than any other woman in this portion of the Accounts, and every instance of cloth of gold and cloth of silver clothing went to her. Three-quarters of the gowns and kirtles provided for her were silk or cloth of gold or silver, and the rest of her wardrobe was extensive compared to her sisters’. Her mother’s grants of clothing might have been comparable if not for the hiatus of several years (see above). Like her mother’s clothing, many of Barbara’s garments were monochromatic, but they were more likely  35

Although Paul seems doubtful that the marriage to Alexander Gordon ever took place, there are several indications in the Accounts for February 1548/49 that it had already happened. For example, “Item to foure duche men quha with þair trumbis playit before lady Barbara at hir Incuming fra þe kirk—xj li v s” [Item, to four Dutch men who with their drums played before Lady Barbara at her incoming from the church—£11 5s] (NRS E21/42/249v) and “Item to ane fydlar playit at þe mariage—xs” [Item, to a fiddler {who} played at the marriage—10s] (NRS E21/42/250r). Barbara is referred to as Lady Gordon from November 1550 until the end of this portion of the Accounts, and Lady Huntly, her mother-in-law, gave her a purple satin gown in May 1552 [718]. See also Blakeway, Regency, 128 and n. 11, and Merriman, Rough Wooings, 332 n. 37. For a discussion of the lavish wardrobe prepared for her wedding, see pp. 129–30.  36 Hamilton, History, 17; Paul, Peerage, 4:370.

4 16

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to have trim: white taffeta trimmed with white velvet, red taffeta trimmed with crimson velvet, tawny velvet trimmed with tawny satin. She had the possibility of monochromatic ensembles as well. In March 1542/43, for example, she received a gown and kirtle of white taffeta, a gown of tawny damask, and a kirtle of tawny velvet [24]. In February 1543/44, she received a gown and kirtle of Paris black, both bordered with fine ermine and clearly meant to be worn together [73]. However, she had gowns and kirtles with no matching counterparts, and she also received multicolored outfits. In January 1551/52, she was granted a black double-pile velvet gown with a long train and two pairs of sleeves of yellow satin and white satin [673]. Each pair of sleeves had a matching skirt, and it seems likely that they were worn as underskirts, with the gown being open in front from the waist down to show them. Although Barbara’s wardrobe tended toward black, tawny, and gray like her mother’s, she had a larger percentage – around one-third – of white, yellow, red, and purple. She also seems to have had a taste for hats, of which she was given six (at least half of them decorated with ribbons or passementerie), while her mother and sisters received one each. Barbara served the dowager Queen Marie de Guise as a maiden of the chamber (lady-inwaiting) before her marriage. Although she was specified as being with the queen in Stirling in February and March 1543/44 [73, 78], it was not until August 1548 that she was said to be “passing to þe court to þe Quennis grace” [394]. It could be that she and the queen were both living in Stirling for a period of several years but that Barbara did not formally enter the service of Marie de Guise until 1548. At that point her wardrobe expanded considerably with large grants in both August and November 1548. Materials and labor for most of these items were provided from the national treasury and not by Marie de Guise, whose household had a separate income and accounts. However, fabric for two gowns came from the Regent’s own stores, and the dowager queen’s tailor was paid to do much of the construction of Barbara’s clothing, with his apprentices given “drinksilver” as a gratuity. In December 1552 and again in March and April, 1553, Barbara received mourning clothes, as did her servant Elizabeth/Elspeth (see p. 620). This was almost certainly following the death of her first husband Alexander Gordon.37 A summary of the clothing Barbara received in the Accounts follows the transcriptions and translations below. March 1542/43: These are excerpts from a long series that included clothing for several people. The full entry is listed in the earlier section for Lady Margaret Douglas.

 37

Item deliuerit to him to be ane gowne and kirtill to barbara vj elnis thre quarteris quhite armosy teffites, price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiij li x s

Item, delivered to him [ John Anderson] to be a gown and kirtle for Barbara, 6¾ ells of white armosene taffeta, price of each ell 40s; total: £13 10s.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe samin ½ elne ½ qrter quhite veluet, price þairof— xlvj s

Item, delivered to him to trim the same, ⅝ ell of white velvet, price thereof 46s.

Paul, Peerage, 4:536.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 17

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe sichtis þairof vj quarteris quhite teffites of Janis, price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s [vj d]38

Item, delivered to him the line the scyes thereof, 1½ ells of white taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item deliuerit to him to be hir ane vþer gowne v elnis tanny dammes, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li

Item, delivered to him to be another gown for her, 5 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £9.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill four elnis ane nail less tanny veluet, price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xij li xix s x d

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 315⁄16 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £12 19s 10d.39

Item deliuerit to be hir ane vþer gown and geit twa gownis of vairiant champlet to twa of þe gentill wemen vj elnis elnis ane quarter purpur veluet, price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xx li xij s vj d

Item, delivered to be another gown for her and to trim two gowns of variegated camlet for two of the gentlewomen, 6¼ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £20 12s 6d.

Item deliuerit to lyne ane reid dames kirtill to hir furneist be alexander fostar ane elne dimmegrane, price—xxviij s [24]

Item, delivered to line a red damask kirtle for her, furnished by Alexander Foster, an ell of demigrain, price 28s.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill and to geit ane gowne to barbara of tanny dames vij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xxiij li ij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her and to trim a gown for Barbara of tawny damask, 7 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £23 2s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe bodyis of all þe foresaidis claithis xij elnis quhite fustiane, price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s [25]

Item, delivered to him to line the bodies of all the aforesaid clothes, 12 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

September 1543

 38

Item þe samyn day boucht viij elnis chamlot to be ane goun to ane dochter of my lord gouernoris callit barbara hammiltoun price of þe elne xij s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, the same day, bought 8 ells of camlet, to be a gown for a daughter of my lord governor’s called Barbara Hamilton, price of each ell 12s; total: £4 16s.

Item to begary þe said goun tua elnis fyne blak welwet price of þe elne iij li Summa— vj li

Item, to trim the said gown, 2 ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3; total: £6.

This portion of the manuscript is missing. Paul’s transcription contains the bracketed text, which is the logical sum.  39 The total should be £12 19s 10½d.

4 18

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Item foure elnis blak to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxij s Summa—iiij li viij s

Item, 4 ells of black to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 22s; total: £4 8s.

Item ye samin day xi elnis 40 to be hir ane other kirtill pryce of þe elne xiij? s iiij d Summa—vij li vj [s]

Item, the same day, 11 ells of to be another kirtle for her, price of each ell 13?s 4d; total: £7 6s 8d.?

Item for making of þe said clathis xlv? s vj d [49]

Item, for making of the said clothes, 45?s 6d.

February 1543/44

 40

 42  43  41

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept & spetiall command to his gracis douchter barbara hammiltoun to Striuiling to remane þair wt þe quenis grace v elnis paris blak to be hir ane goun and kirtill price of þe elne xlij s Summa—x li x s

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s daughter, Barbara Hamilton, to Stirling to remain there with the queen’s grace, 5 ells of Paris black to be a gown and kirtle for her, price of each ell 42s; total: £10 10s.

Item half ane elne of fyne welwot to be hir ane hude pryce thairof—xxxij s vj d

Item, ½ ell of fine velvet to be a hood for her, price thereof 32s 6d.

Item ane eln and half ane quarter welwot to be ane hude to hir gentill woman and mussell and bonegrace to þame baith pryce of þe elne iij li Summa—iij li vij s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of velvet to be a hood for her gentlewoman, and mufflers and bongraces for them both, price of each ell £3; total: £3 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis and ane quarter blak sating to be lynnyng to þair hudis quarnattis and patlottis pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— iij li xij s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to be lining for their hoods, cornets, and partlets, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.41

Item foure elnis franche blak to be ane goun to hir said seruand pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her said servant, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item thre elnis vter fyne to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxj s Summa—iiij li xiiij s

Item, 3 ells of utterfine to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 31s; total: £4 14s.42

Item tua elnis canves to lyne þe bodyis of baith thir gounis and kirtillis pryce of þe elne xxxij d Summa—v s iij d

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of both these gowns and kirtles, price of each ell 32d; total: 5s 3d.43

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. The total should be £4 1s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 2 instead of 2½. The total should be £4 13s. The total should be 5s 4d.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 19

Item ane elne of bukram to lyne þir paitlottis pryce—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line these partlets, price 4s.

Item vij elnis gray to lyne þair kirtillis pryce of þe elne iij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 7 ells of gray to line their kirtles, price of each ell 3s; total: 21s.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þair gownis pryce vj s viij d

Item, 2 ells of gray to line their gowns, price 6s 8d.

Item for cuffis & bordairis of fyne armyngis to þair saidis gownis & kirtillis, vj li

Item, for cuffs and borders of fine ermine to their said gowns and kirtles, £6.

Item for makin of þir foresaid clathis—[xx s]44

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, [20s].

Item to ane boy þat tursit þame fra Edinburght to Striuiling—[ix s] [73]

Item, to a boy that carried them from Edinburgh to Stirling, [9s].

March 1543/44

 44

Item þe xviij day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command send furt of Edinburt to his gracis douchter Barbara hammiltoun being wt þe quenis grace in Striuiling v quarteris blak sating price of þe elne þairof xxxiiij s Summa— xlij s vj d

Item, the 18th day of March by my lord governor’s precept and special command, sent forth from Edinburgh for his grace’s daughter, Barbara Hamilton, being with the queen’s grace in Stirling, 1¼ ells of black satin, price of each ell thereof 34s; total 42s 6d.

Item half ane elne of blak to be hir hois price thairof—xvij s

Item, ½ ell of black to be hose for her, price thereof 17s.

Item send to hir thre elnis Laune? price of þe elne xxij s Summa—iij li vj s

Item, sent to her 3 ells of lawn?, price of each ell 22s; total: £3 6s.

Item send to hir thre elnis small holand claith pryce of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xlij s

Item, sent to her 3 ells of fine Holland cloth, price of each ell 14s; total: 42s.

Item send to hir twa elnis round holand claith price of þe elne viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, sent to her 2 ells of heavy Holland cloth, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item to pak? þe saidis clathis In half ane elne of canves price—vij d [78]

Item, to pack? the said clothes in half an ell of canvas, price 7d.

The portion of the manuscript bearing this and the next total is missing. They are present in brackets in Paul’s transcription, but it’s not clear how he arrived at them.

4 20

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February 1545/46

 45

Item þe samyn day be his gracis precept and spetiall command to his gracis dauchter berbara hammiltoun at hir departing to þe northland with þe erll of huntlie thre elnis fyne blak welwot to be hir hudis and patlottis price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, the same day, by his grace’s precept and special command, for his grace’s daughter, Barbara Hamilton, at her departing to the northland with the Earl of Huntly, 3 ells of fine black velvet to be hoods and partlets for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item tua elnis blak sating to lyne hir hudis & patlottis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of black satin to line her hoods and partlets, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item thre elnis paris blak to be hir ane ryding goun wt slevis price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, 3 ells of Paris black to be a riding gown with sleeves for her, price of each ell 42s; total: £6 6s.

Item half ane elne of welwot to narve þe saidis ryding cloke price of þe elne xxxv s half elne—xxxv s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to trim the said riding cloak, price of each ell 35s half ell, 35s.

Item viij elnis welwot? 45 wt price of þe elne

Item, 8 ells of velvet? with price of each ell

Item for ane lynnyng goun—

Item, for a lining gown—

Item half ane elne of welwot? to? narve? [þe] samyn—

Item, ½ ell of velvet? to? trim? [the] same—

Item for tua elnis freis to be hir ane ganging goun price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li [viij s]

Item, for 2 ells of frieze to be a walking [traveling?] gown for her, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 [8s].

Item tua elnis taffate to lyne þe forescytis of þis freis goun—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to line the forescyes of this frieze gown, 32s.

Item half ane elne of canves to lyne þe bodyis of it—xx d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to line the bodies of it, 20d.

Item ane elne of welwot to narve þe said goun—iij li x s

Item, an ell of velvet to trim the said gown, £3 10s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. The damage recurs at the top and right margins of many pages, as can be seen below in this record. Paul did not attempt to transcribe the damaged section at the top, but he did fill in the missing part of the total for the walking gown.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 21

 46

Item foure elnis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 4 ells of worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 14s; total: 56s.

Item vj elnis holland claith to be hir collaris & other necessaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, 6 ells of Holland cloth to be collars and other necessities for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 16s.

Item tuelf elnis lynnyng claith to be hir sarkis price of þe elne ij s viij d Summa— xxviij s

Item, 12 ells of linen cloth to be smocks for her, price of each ell 2s 8d; total: 28s.46

Item ane elne of vterfyne to be hir hois price—xxxij s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for her, price 32s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quartar crammesy welwot to walt ane goun of reid taffate translatit for hir price—l s

Item, ⅝ ell of crimson velvet to trim a gown of red taffeta altered for her, price 50s.

Item ane vnce of blak sylk to hir—vij s

Item, an ounce of black silk for her, 7s.

Item tua vnce small birge threid to hir price—xiiij s

Item, 2 ounces of fine Bruges thread for her, price 14s.

Item foure paperis of prenis to hir price—ix s

Item, four papers of pins for her, price 9s.

…

…

Item at precept for holland claith curchayis collaris and other necessaris boucht be mathew hammiltoun maister of houshald—v li

Item, at precept for Holland cloth kerchiefs, collars, , and other necessities bought by Matthew Hamilton, master of household, £5.

Item for tua gret cofferis to turs the foresaid clathis in—iij li [186]

Item, for two large coffers to carry the aforesaid clothes in, £3.

Item vij elnis reid to lyne þe sychtis of baith hir said maistres & hir gownis & kirtillis price of þe elne vij s Summa—xlix s

[from a list of items for her servant, Marian:] Item, 7 ells of red to line the scyes of both her said mistress’ and her gowns and kirtles, price of each ell 7s; total: 49s.

Item tuenty elnis gray to lyne þe over parttis of baith þe saidis lyfrayis price of the elne iij s iiij d Summa—iij li vj s viij d

Item, 20 ells of gray to line the overparts of both the said liveries, price of each ell 3s 4d; total: £3 6s 8d.

The total should be 32s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 10½ or if the price per ell were 2s 4d.

4 22

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

47 bodyis of baith [the sa]idis lyfr[ayis price] of þe elne iij s iiij d [Summa]—xvj s viij d

bodies of both [the sa]id liv[eries, price] of each ell 3s 4d; [total:] 16s 8d.

Item to Jhonne ?soun tailȝeour for making of baith the saidis lyfrayis as ane compt particularlie written heir present to schaw beris—viij li xiiij s

Item, to John [Ander]son tailor, for making of both the said liveries, as an account particularly written here present to show bears out, £8 14s.

…

…

Item to tua hors þat tursit lady barbara cofferris furth of Edinburght to dunfermling—xx s

Item, for two horses that carried Lady Barbara’s coffers from Edinburgh to Dunfermline, 20s.

Item to ane boy þat passit with þe said cofferris—iij s [189]

Item, to a boy that traveled with the said coffers, 3s.

December 1546

 47

Item þe fourtene day of december be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to his gracis douchter lady Barbara tua elnis and ane half spanȝe freis to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, the 14th day of December, by my lord governor’s special command, to his grace’s daughter, lady Barbara, 2½ ells of Spanish frieze to be a gown for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item to bordoure þe said goun tua elnis welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— vij li

Item, to border the said gown, 2 ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item foure elnis and ane half of bukrame to lyne þe said goun þe elne v s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 4½ ells of buckram to line the said gown, each ell 5s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þe said clathis to hir to þe northlande price—iij s

Item, an ell of canvas to carry the said clothes to her to the northland, price 3s.

…

…

Item for making of ladye barbarais goun— xvij s [240]

Item, for making of Lady Barbara’s gown, 17s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 23

January 1546/47 Item deliuerrit to Jhonne achisoun tailȝeour to be Ladye barbara ane goun tua elnis & ane half of freis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s [250]

Item, delivered to John Acheson, tailor, to be a gown for Lady Barbara, 2½ ells of freize, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

March 1546/47 Item fyve elnis and ane half blak welwote to be my lord gouernoures douchter ladye Barbara ane goun þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xx li xij s vj d [286]

Item, 5½ ells of black velvet to be a gown for my lord governor’s daughter, Lady Barbara, each ell £3 15s; total: £20 12s 6d.

April 1547 Item for tua crabis of hudis to ladye Barbara—lvj s

Item, for two crepes of hoods for lady Barbara, 56s.

Item for prenis and nedillis to hir—xij s

Item, for pins and needles for her, 12s.

Item to Male stewart hir seruande to furneis certane necessaris to hir said maistres In x crounis of þe sone—xj li [294]

Item, to Molly Stewart, her servant, to furnish certain necessities to her said mistress, in 10 crowns of the sun, £11.

Item for lyning of certaine clathis maid to ladye Barbara In Strauiling þe stuf my lord gouernoures awyn—iij li [296]

Item, for lining of certain clothes made for lady Barbara in Stirling, the fabric my lord governor’s own, £3.

February 1547/48 Item fyve elnis and ane half tannye welwote to be ane goun to my lord gouernoures douchter Ladye barbara price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xix li v s

Item, 5½ ells of tawny velvet to be a gown for my lord governor’s daughter Lady Barbara, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £19 5s.

Item coft thre elnis blak welwote to be hir hudes and paitlattis price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xij li

Item, bought 3 ells of black velvet to be hoods and partlets for her, price of each ell £4; total: £12.

Item thre quartaris sating to lyne þir hudes—xxvij s

Item, ¾ ell of satin to line these hoods, 27s.

Item vj elnis bertane claith to be hir naipkynnes and ny tcurchayes wt other necessares þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—xx s

Item, 6 ells of Bretagne cloth to be handkerchiefs and night kerchiefs with other necessities for her, each ell 3s 4d; total: 20s.

4 2 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item foure elnis hollande claith to be hir necessaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa— iij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of Holland cloth to be necessities for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item ane elne of vterfyne to be hir hois— xxxvj s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for her, 36s.

Item ane vnce ȝallo silk to hir—ix s

Item, an ounce of yellow silk for her, 9s.

Item coft and deliuerit to hir seruande thre hankis of gold—xlij s

Item, bought and delivered to her servant, three hanks of gold, 42s.

Item foure elnis blak fusteane to lyne þe bodyis of hir clathis þe elne viij s Summa— xxxij s

Item, 4 ells of black fustian to line the bodies of her clothes, each ell 8s; total: 32s.

Item x elnis of gray to lyne hir clathis & hir seruandes þe elne iiij s Summa—xl s

Item, 10 ells of gray to line her clothes and her servant’s, each ell 4s; total: 40s.

Item for tua crapis to hir hudes—xliiij s

Item, for two crepes for her hoods, 44s.

Item xxx elnis of trasis to eik ane goun of hirris of blak welwote þe elne viij d Summa—xx s viij d

Item, 30 ells of traces to enlarge a gown of hers of black velvet, each ell 8d; total: 20s 8d.48

Item thre elnis blak welwote to eik þis goun þe elne iiij li Summa—xij li [352]

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to enlarge this gown, each ell £4; total: £12.

August 1548

 48

Item ixto Augusti to my lord gouernoures eldest douchter Lady Berbara at hir passing to þe court to þe Quennis grace to be hir ane goun vij elnis fyne blak welwote price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xxv li iiij s

Item, August 9th, for my lord governor’s eldest daughter, Lady Barbara, at her passing to the Court to the Queen’s grace, to be a gown for her, 7 ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £25 4s.

Item to be hir ane hude fyve quartaris fynnar welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—v li

Item, to be a hood for her, 1¼ ells of finer velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £5.

Item to be hir ane other goun ix elnis armosene taffeteis blak price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, to be another gown for her, 9 ells of black armosene taffeta, price of each ell 32s; total: £14 8s.

Item to be hir ane other hude and paitlattis ten quartaris fyne welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—x li

Item, to be another hood and partlets for her, 2½ ells of fine velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £10.

The total should be 20s.



 49

Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 25

Item to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis tannye dalmes price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa— xj li viij s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 6 ells of tawny damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £11 8s.

Item ane half elne birge sating to body þis kirtill price—vj s

Item, ½ ell of Bruges satin to body this kirtle, price 6s.

Item ane elne crammosye sating to be hir ane pair of slewis price—iij li x s

Item, an ell of crimson satin to be a pair of a sleeves for her, price £3 10s.

Item vj quartaris robanis to hir hat—iij s

Item, 1½ ells of ribbons for her hat, 3s.

Item vj quartaris taffateis foure thredis to lyne þe sychtis of hir goun—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta of four threads to line the scyes of her gown, 24s.

Item tua elnis ane half and half quartar blak sating to be lyning to hir hudis hir paitlattis and other necessares price of þe elne xlv s Summa—v li xvij s vj d

Item, 2⅝ ells of black satin to be lining for her hoods, her partlets and other necessities, price of each ell 45s; total: £5 17s 6d.49

Item ix elnis bukrame to lyne ane part of hir clathis price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xl s vj d

Item, 9 ells of buckram to line a part of her clothes, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 40s 6d.

Item xij elnis and ane half blak gray to þe same clathis price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—lvj s iij d

Item, 12½ ells of black gray for the same clothes, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 56s 3d.

Item x quartaris canves to þe bodyis of þe same clathis price—x s

Item, 2½ ells of canvas for the bodies of the same clothes, price 10s.

Item vj quartaris reid stemmyng to lyne þe sychtis of hir kirtillis price of þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of red stemming to line the scyes of her kirtles, price of each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane elne of taffate to couer hir fais fra þe sone—xiiij s

Item, an ell of taffeta to cover her face from the sun, 14s.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar fyne pareis blak to be hir ane ryding pE price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li x s

Item, 3¼ ells of fine Paris black to be a riding cloak for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £6 10s.

Item half ane elne of welwote to vane þis pE—xl s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to trim this cloak, 40s.

The total should be £5 18s 1½d.

4 26

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item half ane elne of welwote to be hir schone—xxxvj s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for her, 36s.

Item foure elnis fyne hollande claith to be hir necessares price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item 4 ells of fine Holland cloth to be necessities for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item xv elnis bartane claith to be hir sarkis price of þe elne ij s iiij d—xxxv s [394]

Item, 15 ells of Bretagne cloth to be smocks for her, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 35s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be hir hois— xv s [396]

Item, an ell of stemming to be hose for her, 15s.

Item to be my lord gouernour ane bonet and to couer hir ane hat vj quartaris fyne welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, to be a bonnet for my lord governor and to cover a hat for her, 1½ ells of fine velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £6.

Item thre elnis pasment to þe samyn hat price of þe elne ij s Summa—vj s

Item, 3 ells of passementerie for the same hat, price of each ell 2s; total: 6s.

Item fyve elnis traissis to þe same price of þe elne viij d Summa—iij s iiij d

Item, 5 ells of traces for the same, price of each ell 8d; total: 3s 4d.

Item vj quartaris sating to be hir ane pair of slewis boucht at James lindesay price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—lj s

Item, 1½ ells of satin to be a pair of sleeves for her, bought at James Lindsay, price of each ell 34s; total: 51s.

…

…

Item for gluvis to Lady Barbara—viij s [397]

Item, for gloves for Lady Barbara, 8s.

September 1548 Item be þe same precept deliuerit hir to be send to lady Barbara ane hanke gold— xxxiiij s

Item, by the same precept, delivered to her [ Janet Kelly] to be sent to Lady Barbara, one hank of gold, 34s.

Item for sewing silk and birge threid gevyn hir—xvj s

Item, for sewing silk and Bruges thread given her, 16s.

Item for tua hattis gevin hir—xxx s [404]

Item, for two hats given her, 30s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 27

October 1548 Item boucht at James Stewinsoun and gewyn to Jonet kelle to be certane necessaris to hir maistres Ladye Barbara foure elnis hollande claithe price of þe elne x s Summa—xl s

Item, bought at James Stevenson, and given to Janet Kelly to be certain necessities for her mistress, Lady Barbara, 4 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 10s; total: 40s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be hir hois— xlv s [407]

Item, an ell of stemming to be hose for her, 45s.

November 1548

 50

Item þe samyn day v elnis quhite to lyne ane goun of claith of gold to lady barbara price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xx s [413]

Item, the same day, 5 ells of white to line a gown of cloth of gold for Lady Barbara, price of each ell 4s; total: 20s.

Item ane pair of shone to Ladye Barbara— iiij s [417]

Item, a pair of shoes for Lady Barbara, 4s.

Item foure elnis reid taffate of þe corde to lyne þe talis of tua gownnes of crammosye welwote and crammosye sating þe stuf of my lorde gouernourres awyn to his graces douchter lady Barbara being wt þe Quennis grace In striviling þe elne xxij s vj d Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 4 ells of red taffeta of the cord to line the hems of two gowns of crimson velvet and crimson satin, the stuff of my lord governor’s own, for his grace’s daughter, Lady Barbara, being with the Queen’s grace in Stirling, each ell 22s 6d; total: £4 10s.

Item xvij elnis and ane half blak gray to lyne þir gownnes and tua kirtillis of Crammosye sating and quhite sating price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—iij li xviij s ix d

Item, 17½ ells of black gray to line these gowns and two kirtles of crimson satin and white satin, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: £3 18s 9d.

Item to þir same clathis vj quarteris of bukrame þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—vj s ix d

Item, for these same clothes, 1½ ells of buckram, each ell 4s 6d; total: 6s 9d.

Item v elnis and ane quartar reid stemmying to be hir ane vylecote and to lyne þe sychtis of hir kirtillis þe elne xv s Summa— iij li xiij s vj d

Item, 5¼ ells of red stemming to be a petticoat for her and to line the scyes of her kirtles, each ell 15s; total: £3 13s 6d.50

Item thre elnis canves to lyne þe bodyes of þir gownis and kirtillis—xij s

Item, 3 ells of canvas to line the bodies of these gowns and kirtles, 12s.

Item ane elne of vterfyne to be hir hois— xxxvj s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for her, 36s.

The total should be £3 18s 9d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 14s rather than 15s.

4 2 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane cord of silk to lais hir goun—vj d

Item, a cord of silk to lace her gown, 6d.

Item prenis to hir—ix s

Item, pins for her, 9s.

Item ane elne of fyne crammosye sating to be slevvis to hir goun of claith of gold—iiij li

Item, an ell of fine crimson satin to be sleeves for her gown of cloth of gold, £4.

Item half ane eln of welwote to be hir schone—xxxvij s vj d

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for her, 37s 6d.

Item foure elnis lynning claith to be hir necessares price of þe elne ij s iiij d summa ix s iiij d

Item, 4 ells of linen cloth to be her necessities, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 9s 4d.

Item tua elnis robanis to hir hat—iiij s

Item, 2 ells of ribbon for her hat, 4s.

Item ane spunge to hir—vij s

Item, a sponge for her, 7s.

Item half ane elne and ane quartar blak fustiane to be bodyes to ane kirtill of crammosye dalmes of hirris price—v s viij d

Item, ¾ ell of black fustian to be bodies for a kirtle of crimson damask of hers, price 5s 8d.

Item for thre craippis send to hir—iij li vij d

Item, for three crepes sent to her, £3 7s.

Item to þe Quennis tailȝeour for making of thre gownis of claith of sylwer crammosye welwote and crammosye sating And tua kirtillis of quhyte sating and reid sating and other small necessares—iiij li viij s

Item, to the Queen’s tailor for making of three gowns of cloth of silver, crimson velvet, and crimson satin, and two kirtles of white satin and red satin, and other small necessities, £4 8s.

Item to his childer in drinksilwer—v s

Item, to his children51 in drinksilver, 5s.

…

…

Item mair vij elnis gray to þe kirtill of dalmes price of þe elne iiij s Summa— xxviij s [419]

Item, in addition, 7 ells of gray for the kirtle of damask, price of each ell 4s; total: 28s.

December 1548 Item to ane boy callit robesoun send to striuiling wt ladye Barbarais clathis agane ȝule—xj s [427]

 51

This is a tip for the tailor’s apprentices.

Item, to a boy called Robesoun sent to Stirling with Lady Barbara’s clothes for Yule, 11s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 29

January 1548/49

 52

Item boucht at williame craik and James stewinsoun to be ane rob ryall to Lady Barbara aganis hir mariage x elnis thre quartaris and ane half purpure welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xliij li v s

Item, bought at William Craik and James Stevenson to be a royal robe for Lady Barbara on the occasion of her marriage, 10⅞ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £43 5s.52

Item xij elnis and ane half of canves to be ane patroun to þe said rob ryall and other necessares to hir clathis þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvij s vj d

Item, 12½ ells of canvas to be a pattern for the said royal robe, and other necessities for her clothes, each ell 3s; total: 37s 6d.

Item boucht fra þe said stewinsoun to be ane kirtill to hir, vij elnis and ane half quartar satin crammosye þe elne iiij li Summa—xxviij li x s

Item, bought from the said Stevenson to be a kirtle for her, 7⅛ ells of crimson satin, each ell £4; total: £28 10s.

Item to walter danyelstoun for tua elnis crammosye dalmes to eik furth ane kirtill of hirris—vj li xv s

Item, to Walter Danielston, for 2 ells of crimson damask to enlarge a kirtle of hers, £6 15s.

Item vj quartarris braid reid to lyne þe sychtis of this kirtill price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 1½ ells of broad red to line the scyes of this kirtle, price of each ell 32s; total: 48s.

Item xiiij elnis hollande claith to be hir sarkes & other necessarres þe elne x s Summa—vij li

Item, 14 ells of Holland cloth to be smocks and other necessities for her, each ell 10s; total: £7.

Item v elnis tannye taffate to be hir ane ny t goun price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li

Item, 5 ells of tawny taffeta to be a night gown for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £4.

Item half ane elne of tannye welwote to walt þis goun—xxxvj s

Item, ½ ell of tawny velvet to welt this gown, 36s.

Item half ane elne of bukram to þe same— iij s

Item, ½ ell of buckram for the same, 3s.

Item ix skynnes of buge to lyne þe sychtis of þis goun price of þe pece xij s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 9 lambskins to line the scyes of this gown, price of each piece 12s; total: £5 8s.

Item to þe furroure for furring to þe bak of it—iij li Item to him for his lauboures—iij li x s

Item, to the furrier for furring for the back of it [and] to him for his labors, £3 10s.

The total should be £43 10s.

43 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to lyne hir rob ryall viij elnis quhite taffate of þe corde price of þe elne xxij s vj d—ix li v s vij d ob

Item, to line her royal robe, 8 ells of white taffeta of the cord, price of each ell 22s 6d, total: £9 5s 7½d.53

Item to lyne hir other clathis vij elnis reid stemmyng þe elne xv s Summa—v li v s

Item, to line her other clothes, 7 ells of red stemming, each ell 15s; total: £5 5s.

Item to hir goun of claith of gold and claith of silwer tua elnis and ane half quhite price of þe elne vj s Summa—xv s

Item, for her gown[s?] of cloth of gold and cloth of silver, 2½ ells of white, price of each ell 6s; total: 15s.

Item tua elnis quhyte sating to be slewis to hir goun of claith of silwer boucht at williame craik þe elne at xlv s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2 ells of white satin to be sleeves for her gown of cloth of silver, bought at William Craik, each ell at 45s; total: £4 10s.

Item boucht at James berroun vj elnis quhyte taffate of foure threid mair to lyne hir rob ryall þe vþer of þe corde refusit be þe Quene eftir it wes schapyn þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, bought at James Barroun, 6 more ells of white taffata of four threads to line her royal robe, the other of the cord refused by the Queen after it was cut out [sewn together?], each ell 16s; total: £4 16s.

…

…

Item vj quarterris of grene sating to body ane kirtill of claith of gold of Ladye Barbarais þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of green satin to be the bodies of a kirtle of cloth of gold of Lady Barbara’s, each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item ane elne of bukrame to þe same—v s [429]

Item, an ell of buckram for the same, 5s.

February 1548/49

 53

Item to be ladye Barbara ane goun syde talit ten elnis fyne tannye welwote price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, to be a gown with a long train for Lady Barbara, 10 ells of fine tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 36s.

Item ane elne of tannye sating to narve þis goun—xlij s

Item, an ell of tawny satin to trim this gown, 42s.

Item v elnis blak gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne at iiij s vj d Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 5 ells of black gray to line the same, each ell at 4s 6d; total: 24s 9d.54

The total should be £9. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 8¼ rather than 8. The total should be 22s 6d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 5½ rather than 5.

 54



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 43 1

Item tua elnis reid stemmyng to þe sychtis of it—xxviij s

Item, 2 ells of red stemming for the scyes of it, 28s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of þis goun price—ij s iiij d

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of this gown, price 2s 4d.

Item foure elnis and ane half gray welwote to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xvj li xvij s vj d

Item, 4½ ells of gray velvet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £16 17s 6d.

Item fyve elnis gray to þis kirtill þe elne v s Summa—xxv s

Item, 5 ells of gray for this kirtle, each ell 5s; total: 25s.

Item tua elnis purpure taffate to lyne þe sichtis of ane goun of purpure welwote to hir—xxviij s

Item, 2 ells of purple taffeta to line the scyes of a gown of purple velvet for her, 28s.

Item ane elne of reid taffate of þe corde to lyne ane taill of ane goun of reid crammosye welwote price—xxij s [436]

Item, an ell of red taffeta of the cord to line the hem of a gown of red crimson velvet, price 22s.

Item ane wairdegairt to ladye Barbara—iiij li x s

Item, a safeguard for Lady Barbara, £4 10s.

Item thre quartaris of quhite birge sating to be ane stomak vnder hir rob ryall—ix s [439]

Item, ¾ ell of white Bruges satin to be a stomacher under her royal robe, 9s.

Item to þe furroure for tuys lyning of ane goun of hirris pikit about wt pulderinges— xxiiij s

Item, to the furrier for twice lining of a gown of hers picked about with powderings [of ermine], 24s.

Item for piking and lynyng of ane rob ryall—xx s [442]

Item, for picking and lining of a royal robe, 20s.

Item tua elnis blak welwote to be ladye Barbara hudis cornettis and other necessares price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—vij li x s

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to be hoods, cornets, and other necessities for Lady Barbara, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £7 10s.

Item tua elnis blak sating to lyne þe hude and to be ane paitlat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s [444]

Item, 2 ells of black satin to line the hood and to be a partlet, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 8s.

432

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item be his graces commande to þe Quennis grace tailȝeoure for making of lady Barbarais clathis as his compte heir to schaw beris—xj li xvij s ix d

Item, by his grace’s command, to the Queen’s grace’s tailor for making of Lady Barbara’s clothes, as his account here to show bears out, £11 17s 9d.

Item to Jhonne andersoun for making of ane kirtill of dalmes—viij s [446]

Item, to John Anderson for making of a kirtle of damask, 8s.

Item to þe Quennis tailȝeouris seruande In drinksilwer—xiiij s [447]

Item, to the Queen’s tailor’s servant in drinksilver, 14s.

Item xij pair of gluffis to hir—xxiiij s [450]

Item, 12 pairs of gloves for her, 24s.55

March 1548/49 Item vj elnis quhite boucht to be laid betuyx þe faldinges of lady barbarais abulȝeamentis of claith of gold and claith of sylwer þe elne iij s viij d Summa—xxij s [452]

Item, 6 ells of white bought to be laid between the foldings of Lady Barbara’s habiliments of cloth of gold and cloth of silver, each ell 3s 8d; total: 22s.

Item for ane fore and bak garnesing of gold to Ladye barbara hude—xlv li [454]

Item, for a fore and back garnishing of gold for Lady Barbara’s hood, £45.

October 1549

 55

Item fyvve elnis tanny weluot to be ane kirtill to his graces eldest dochter lady barbara price of þe elne iij li xvj s summa—xix li

Item, 5 ells of tawny velvet to be a kirtle for his grace’s eldest daughter, Lady Barbara, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £19.

Item to be hir ane goun vij elnis gray weluot price of þe elne iij li xv s summa—xxvj li v s

Item, to be a gown for her, 7 ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £26 5s.

Item ane elne of reid to lyne þe sichtis of þis kirtill price—xxx s

Item, an ell of red to line the scyes of this kirtle, price 30s.

Item vj quartaris canves to pak þis goun and kirtill in to be turst till strabogy—iiij s [499]

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to pack this gown and kirtle in to be carried to Strathbogie, 4s.

These are most likely for Barbara. The only other possibility is Bessie Murray, who is less likely to have received 12 pairs of gloves.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 433

September 1550 Item to be ane goun to Ladye Barbara afore þe quennis departing towart france sevyn elnis blak sating price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xj li iiij s

Item, to be a gown for Lady Barbara before the queen’s departing toward France, 7 ells of black satin, price of each ell 32s; total: £11 4s.

Item v elnis blak welwote to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xviij li xv s

Item, 5 ells of black velvet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £18 15s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fyne blak welwote to begarye hir goun of sating price of þe elne iiij li Summa—x li

Item, 2½ ells of fine black velvet to trim her gown of satin, price of each ell £4; total: £10.

Item ane quartar and ane naill of þe samyn welwote to be hir cornettis and other necessares price—xxv s

Item, 5⁄16 ell of the same velvet to be cornets and other necessities for her, price 25s.

Item for ane pair of bodis to hir—x s

Item, for a pair of bodies for her, 10s.

Item to lyne hir goun vij elnis and ane half gray price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, to line her gown, 7½ ells of gray, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 31s 6d.56

Item to lyne þe sychtis of hir kirtill ane elne braid reid price—xxviij s

Item, to line the scyes of her kirtle, an ell of broad red, price 28s.

Item to þe bodyis of hir kirtill half ane elne small canves—ij s vj d [611]

Item, for the bodies of her kirtle, ½ ell of fine canvas, 2s 6d.

November 1550

 56

Item for ane hatt to my Lady gordoun—ls

Item, for a hat for my Lady Gordon, 50s.

Item to hir tobe gevin to hir lavendaris in thre crovnis—iij li ix s

Item, to her to be given to her laundresses in three crowns, £3 9s.

Item for ane cais wt kames to hir—xiij s

Item, for a case with combs for her, 13s.

Item for twa crapittis ane to my Lady gordoun ane vther to Lady Anna price of þe pece xxiij s Summa—xlvj s [614]

Item, for two crepes, one for my Lady Gordon, another for Lady Anne, price of each piece 23s; total: 46s.

The total should be 33s 9d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 7 instead of 7½.

43 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item claspis to þis govne and to my Lady gordonis govne of tanny veluet—iij s

Item, clasps for this gown [for Anne] and for my Lady Gordon’s gown of tawny velvet, 3s.

…

…

Item to my Lady gordoun foure elnis small holand claith tobe hir collaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s [618]

Item, for my Lady Gordon, 4 ells of fine Holland cloth to be collars for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

December 1550 Item xxiiijo Decembris coft to my lady gordoune ane pair of gilt knyffis with ane scheith of veluet price—xxvj s

Item, December 24th, bought for my Lady Gordon a pair of gilt knives with a sheath of velvet, price 26s.

Item ane purs of crammesy veluet to hir price—xxiij s

Item, a purse of crimson velvet for her, price 24s.

…

…

Item coft to be ane belt to my Lady Gordoune vj quarteris pareis rubanis price of þe elne vj s Summa—ix s [625]

Item, bought to be a belt for my Lady Gordon, 1½ ells of Paris ribbons, price of each ell 6s; total: 9s.

February 1550/51

 57

Item xijo februarii coft tobe ane froig to my lady gordoune xj quarteris spanȝe freis price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—vj li xij

Item, February 12th, bought to be a frock for my Lady Gordon, 2¾ ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell 44s; total: £6 0s 12[d].57

Item half ane elne blak veluet to watt þis froig price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa— xxxvij s

Item, ½ ell of black velvet to trim this frock, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 37s. [6d]

Item foure elnis lynyng gray to it price of þe elne v s Summa—xx s

Item, 4 ells of lining gray for it, price of each ell 5s; total: 20s.

Item to Johnne Craig furrour for furring of þis froig wt cunyng skynnys—xl s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this frock with rabbit skins, 40s.

Item foure elnis florence rubanis to þis froig price of þe elne xij d Summa—iiij s

Item, 4 ells of Florence ribbons for this frock, price of each ell 12d; total: 4s.

Item to Johnne Andersoun for making of it—xviij s [635]

Item, to John Anderson for making of it, 18s.

The very end of this total and the next are lost in the binding of the volume.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 43 5

November 1551 Item deliuerit to þe said Johnne tobe ane hude and ane part claitht to my lady gordoune and ane partclayt to lady anne tway elnis ane quarter blak welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li xvij s vj d

Item, delivered to the said John to be a hood and a partlet for my Lady Gordon, and a partlet for my Lady Anne, 2¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7 17s 6d.

Item thre quarteris blak satin to lyne my lady gordonis hude price þairof—xxx s

Item, ¾ ell of black satin to line my Lady Gordon’s hood, price thereof 30s.

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter taffiteis to lyne þir tway partclay tis price thairof x s

Item, ⅝ ell of taffeta to line their two partlets, price thereof 10s.

Item for making of þis hude tway partclatis and for silk to sew þame wt—xv s [659]

Item, for making of this hood, two partlets, and for silk to sew them with, 15s.

Item vij elnis reid vnwatterit chamlett tobe ane patycoit to my lady gordoun eftir sche was convalescit furt of hir seiknes price of þe elne viij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 7 ells of red unwatered camlet to be a petticoat for my Lady Gordon after she was convalesced forth of her sickness, price of each ell 8s; total: 46s.

Item ane elne of bukcrame to lyne the samin—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line the same, 4s.

Item for making þairof—iiij s

Item, for making thereof, 4s.

Item to Johnne craige furrour for furring of þe samin with quhite lamb skynnis—xxx s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the same with white lamb skins, 30s.

Item for ane wardegard to hir—iij li x s [660]

Item, for a safeguard for her, £3 10s.

Item xvjo nouembris arche clerk send to lynlytqw witht ane furrit vylecoit to my lady gordoun and his wage—vj s [665]

Item, November 16th, Archie Clark sent to Linlithgow with a furred petticoat for my Lady Gordon, and his wage, 6s.

January 1551/52 Item vjto Januarii deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour xj elnis blak welwett of dowble pyle tobe ane lang talit gowne with tway pare of slevis to my lady gordoune price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xlj li v s

Item, January 6th, delivered to the queen’s tailor 11 ells of black velvet of double pile to be a long-trained gown with two pairs of sleeves for my Lady Gordon, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £41 5s.

436

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item v elnis thre quarteris Janys taffiteis to lyne this gowne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li xij s

Item, 5¾ ells of Genoa taffeta to line this gown, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 12s.

Item tway elnis blak gray price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of black gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item ane elne of small canves price þairof—iij s vj d

Item, an ell of fine canvas, price thereof 3s 6d.

Item deliuerit to þe said tailȝeour v quarteris blak welwett to be hir ane hude w t furnessing þairof price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—iiij li xiij s ix d

Item, delivered to the said tailor 1¼ ells of black velvet to be a hood with furnishing thereof for her, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £4 13s 9d.

Item v quarteris fyne blak satin tobe small necessaris to hir price of þe elne xl s Summa—l s

Item, 1¼ ells of fine black satin to be small necessities for her, price of each ell 40s; total: 50s.

Item tway elnis bukcrame to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line the same, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item half ane elne quhite satin tobe small necessaris to hir hudis price þairof—xviij s

Item, ½ ell of white satin to be small necessities for her hoods, price thereof 18s.

Item tway crapis price of þe peice xxij s Summa—xliiij s

Item, two crepes, price of each piece 22s; total: 44s.

Item deliuerit to þe samyn tailȝeour tway elnis and ane half and half ane quarter ȝallow satin to be hir ane skirt and slevis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li xiiij s vj d

Item, delivered to the same tailor 2⅝ ells of yellow satin to be a skirt and sleeves for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 14s 6d.

Item tway elnis quhite satin to be hyr ane vþir skirt and slevis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of white satin to be another skirt and sleeves for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item to lyne þir skyrtis tway elnis quhite buk crame and tway elnis and ane half ȝallow buk crame price of þe elne iij s Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, to line these skirts 2 ells of white buckram and 2½ ells of yellow buckram, price of each ell 3s; total: 13s 6d.

Item ane elne stemmyng of myllane to be hir hois price þairof—xxxviij s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for her, price thereof 38s.

Item deliuerit to homeir leis to be hir schone and pantonis thre quarteris blak welwett price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa— lvj s iij d [673]

Item, delivered to Homeir Leis to be shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for her ¾ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: 56s 3d.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 437

Item vijo Januarii be my lord gouernouris speciale command ane hors hyrit be þe quenis tailȝeour to ryde to lynlythqw on to tak þe mesour of my lady gordonis claithtis—x s [681]

Item, January 7th, by my lord governor’s special command, a horse rented by the queen’s tailor to ride to Linlithgow on, to take the measure of my Lady Gordon’s clothes, 10s.

Item xjo Januarij be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command to elspett dowglas tobe hir expensis remanyng in edinburt vpoun þe making of certane clething to my lady gordoun—iiij li [682]

Item, January 11th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elspeth Douglas, to be her expenses, remaining in Edinburgh upon the making of certain clothing for my Lady Gordon, £4.

Item deliuerit to hir ane hank of sewing gold to my lady gordoune price þairof— xxviij s [683]

Item, delivered to her [Elspeth] a hank of sewing gold for my Lady Gordon, price thereof 28s.

Item xxiiijo Januarii deliuerit to elspett dowglas tobe sarkis to my lady gordoune xvj elnis small britane claith price of þe elne iiij s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, January 24th, delivered to Elspeth Douglas to be smocks for my Lady Gordon, 16 ells of fine Bretagne cloth, price of each ell 4s; total: £3 4s.

Item thre elnis and ane half small cambreche clayt to draw furt þe sleveis of hir gownes price of þe elne xvj s Summa—lvj s

Item, 3½ ells of fine cambric cloth to draw forth the sleeves of her gowns, price of each ell 16s; total: 56s.

Item to þe quenis tailȝeour for making of clething to my ladyis gordoune and anne and þair keparis conforme to his compt billis xvij li vij s viij d of þe quhilk I haue dischargit in þe last monetht w t vij li vj d and þairfor now dischargis wt þe rest viz—x li vii s ij d [680]

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of clothing for my Ladies Gordon and Anne and their keepers conforming to his account bills £17 7s 8d, of the which I have discharged in the last month with £7 6d; and therefore now discharges with the rest, namely, £10 7s 2d.

Item for ane spvnge to my lady gordoune— iiij s [686]

Item, for a sponge for Lady Gordon, 4s.

May 1552 Item ix quarteris of reid stemmyng of myllane send to my lady gordoune tobe hir ane vilecoit price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— iiij li xij d

Item, 2¼ ells of red stemming of Milan sent to my Lady Gordon to be a petticoat for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 0s 12d.

Item twa elne fyne blak welwett tobe hir ane hude partclay t and vþir small necessaris price of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of fine black velvet to be a hood, partlet, and other small necessities for her, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

43 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item x quarteris satin tobe hir ane skirt and slevis price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a skirt and sleeves for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item vj elnis purpour taffiteis to lyne ane gowne of purpour satin gevin to hir be my lady huntlie price of þe elne xvj s Summa— iiij li xvj s [718]

Item, 6 ells of purple taffeta to line a gown of purple satin given to her by my Lady Huntly, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 16s.

May 1552 Item tertio maii be my lord gouernouris speciale command send to strathbogy to elspet dowglace seruitrix to my lady gordoune xj elnis and ane half blak dames tobe hir ane lang talit gowne price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxj li xvij s

Item, May 3rd, by my lord governor’s special command, sent to Strathbogy to Elspeth Douglas, servant to my Lady Gordon, 11½ ells of black damask to be a gown with a long train for her, price of each ell 38s; total: £21 17s.

Item ane boist for hir breist price—iij s [719]

Item, a buist for her breast, price 3s.

June 1552 Item xijo Junij send to strathbogye to my lady gordoune to be hir ane gowne xij elnis gray welwett price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xlv li

Item, June 12th, sent to Strathbogie to my Lady Gordon to be a gown for her, 12 ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £45.

Item v elnis taffiteis to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li

Item, 5 ells of taffeta to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: £4.

Item v quarteris of taffite of þe cord to put about hir heid price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of taffeta of the cord to put about her head, price of each ell 18s; total: 22s 6d.

Item tway elnis stemmyng of myllane to be hir hois price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li [727]

Item, 2 ells of stemming of Milan to be hose for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £4.

Item be his grace speciale command to my lady gordoun to be gevin in drink siluer to tailȝeouris and to do certane vþir besynes witht—xij li xviij s [733]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to my Lady Gordon to be given in drinksilver to tailors and to do certain other business with, £12 18s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 439

November 1552

 58

Item xiijo nouembris thre elnis thre quarteris vnprest blak send to my lady gordoune witht dauid pook hir seruand to be hir ane cloik and skirt price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—viij li xij s vj d

Item, November 13th, 3¾ ells of unpressed black, sent to my Lady Gordon with David Pook, her servant, to be a cloak and skirt for her, price of each ell 46s; total: £8 12s 6d.

Item vij quarteris welwet to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of velvet to border the same, price of each ell £4; total: £7.

Item v elnis fyne blak of þe seill of rowane to be hir ane gowne price of þe elne liiij s Summa—xij li x s

Item, 5 ells of fine black of the seal of Rouen, to be a gown for her, price of each ell 54s; total: £12 10s.58

Item thre elnis blak welwett tobe hir hudis partclaithis and to bordour þis gowne price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xij li

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to be hoods, partlets, and to border this gown for her, price of each ell £4; total: 12s.

Item v elnis blak taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þis gowne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li

Item, 5 ells of black taffeta of four threads to line this gown, price of each ell 16s; total: £4.

Item thre elnis blak satin to be hir ane skirt and vþeris necessaris price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, 3 ells of black satin to be a skirt and other necessities for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item tway elnis and ane half reid stemmyng of myllane tobe hir ane vilecoit price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of red stemming of Milan to be a petticoat for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item tway elnis gall clayth price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, 2 ells of gall cloth, price of each ell 14s; total: 28s.

Item thre elnis lawne price of þe elne xv s Summa—xlv s

Item, 3 ells of lawn, price of each ell 15s; total: 45s.

Item foure elnis small cambreche clay t price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of fine cambric cloth, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item an vnce of crammasy silk price þairof—xvj s

Item, an ounce of crimson silk, price thereof 16s.

Item an vnce of blak satin silk price þairof—x s

Item, an ounce of black satin silk, price thairof 10s.

The total should be £13 10s.

4 40

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane grete hank of sewing gold price þairof—xxviij s

Item, a large hank of sewing gold, price thereof 28s.

Item tway elnis small canves to lyne þe bodyis of hir gownis price of þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—vj s viij d

Item, 2 ells of fine canvas to line the bodies of her gowns, price of each ell 3s 4d; total: 6s 8d.

Item deliuerit to þe said dauid sex quarteris round canves to turs þir claithis in to strathbogy price of þe elne ij s Summa—iij s

Item, delivered to the said David, 1½ ells of heavy canvas to carry these clothes in to Strathbogie, price of each ell 2s; total: 3s.

Item to þe said dauid toby cordis witht to turs þe samyn in—xij d [757]

Item, to the said David, to buy cords with to wrap the same in, 12d.

December 1552 Item xxviijo Decembris foure elnis and ane half blak of þe seill of Rowane to be ane dule goun and hude to my ladye gordoun þe elne lv s Summa—xij li vij s vj d

Item, December 28th, 4½ ells of black of the seal of Rouen to be a mourning gown and hood for my Lady Gordon, each ell 55s; total: £12 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Item tua elnis and ane quartar fustiane to lyne þe slewis and bodyis of þis goun þe elne iiij s Summa—ix s

Item, 2¼ ells of fustian to line the sleeves and bodies of this gown, each ell 4s; total: 9s.

Item for glaspis to þe same—xij d

Item, for clasps for the same, 12d.

Item to Jhone andersoun for making of þe same—xviij s

Item, to John Anderson, for making of the same, 18s.

Item to Andro elphinstoun for furring of þis goune wt mynniwer & edgeing of it with arming and furring of þe dule hude with lettous—viij li

Item, to Andrew Elphinstone, for furring of this gown with miniver and edging of it with ermine, and furring of the mourning hood with lettice, £8.

Item send to Strabogy w t þis dule goune vij elnis camrage clayth to be hir dule curchayes þe elne xvj s Summa—v li xij s

Item, sent to Strathbogie with this mourning gown, 7 ells of cambric cloth to be mourning kerchiefs for her, each ell 16s; total: £5 12s.

Item mair to be hir curchayes xiiij elnis small hollande clayth þe elne xij s Summa—viij li viij s [773]

Item, also to be kerchiefs for her 14 ells of fine Holland cloth, each ell 12s; total: £8 8s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 4 1

February 1552/53 Item þe sextene day of februar deliuerrit to Jhone andersoun tailȝeoure foure elnis vnprest blak to be ane ryding cloke and ane skyrt to my ladye gordoun þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, the 16th day of February, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 4 ells of unpressed black to be a riding cloak and a skirt for my Lady Gordon, each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item half ane elne of þe same blak to lay vpoun hir heid—xx s

Item, ½ ell of the same black to lay upon her head, 20s.

Item for makyng of þis cloke and skyrt—vj s

Item, for making of this cloak and skirt, 6s.

Item tua felt hattis lynit with taffiteis send to Strabogy to my ladye gordoun & hir seruand þe pece xvj s Summa of the tua—xxxij s

Item, two felt hats lined with taffeta, sent to Strathbogie to my Lady Gordon and her servant, each piece 16s; total of the two: 32s.

Item coft tua elnis round canves to put þir clathis In to be turssit to Strabogye þe elne ij s Summa—iiij s [789]

Item, bought 2 ells of heavy canvas to put these clothes in to be carried to Strathbogie, each ell 2s; total: 4s.

March 1552/53 Item deliuerit to Jhone andersoun to be ane goun to my ladye gordoun foure elnis blak of þe seill of rowane þe elne iij li v s Summa—xiij li

Item, delivered to John Anderson, to be a gown for my Lady Gordon, 4 ells of black of the seal of Rouen, each ell £3 5s; total: £13.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þe same—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, 9s.

Item small canves to lyne þe bodyis of It—ij s

Item, fine canvas to line the bodies of it, 2s.

Item for glaspis to it—xij d

Item, for clasps for it, 12d.

Item to Jhone andersoun for makyng of It—xij s

Item, to John Anderson for making of it, 12s.

Item for ane wardegaird to hir of gray fustiane—iij li

Item, for a safeguard for her of gray fustian, £3.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for edgeing of hir goun with armene—xxiiij s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for edging of her gown with ermine, 24s.

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Item send to hir with robart gourlay foure elnis small hollande claith to be hir dule curchayis þe elne xiiij s Summa—liiij s

Item, sent to her with Robert Gourlay, 4 ells of fine Holland cloth to be mourning kerchiefs for her, each ell 14s; total: 54s.59

Item foure elnis camrage þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s [798]

Item, 4 ells cambric, each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

April 1553 Item xvjto aprylis deliuerrit to robart gourlay foure elnis camrage claith to be ane dule curche to my ladye gordoun þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, April 16th, delivered to Robert Gourlay, 4 ells of cambric cloth, to be a mourning kerchief for my Lady Gordon, each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furryng of ane goun of my ladye gordounes wt ane gret dule of […] and edgeing of þe same wt armene—vij li x s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of a gown of my Lady Gordon’s with a large of … and edging of the same with ermine, £7 10s.

Item in drinksyluer to his seruande—ij s

Item, in drinksilver to his servant, 2s.

Item vj quartaris round canves deliuerit to robart gourlay to turs þir clathis In to Linlithqw—iij s [809]

Item, 1½ ells of heavy canvas, delivered to Robert Gourlay, to carry these clothes in to Linlithgow, 3s.

June 1553

 59

Item xvjto Junii deliuerrit to Jhone hammiltoun of boithwell xxiij elnis small bartane clayth to be sarkis to my lady gordoun þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—iij li xvj s viij d

Item, June 16th, delivered to John Hamilton of Bothwell, 23 ells of fine Bretagne cloth to be smocks for my Lady Gordon, each ell 3s 4d; total: £3 16s 8d.

Item vj elnis canves to hir to sew cuscheonis vpoun þe elne iij s viij d Summa—xxij s

Item, 6 ells of canvas for her to sew cushions upon, each ell 3s 8d; total: 22s.

Item ane quartar of blak claith to be schone to hir price—x s

Item, ¼ ell of black cloth to be shoes for her, price 10s.

Item to Inglische williame for making of tua pair of clayth schone And tua pair of schone of fresit ledder—xvj s

Item, to English William for making of two pairs of cloth shoes, and two pairs of shoes of friezed leather, 16s.

Item to his seruande In drinksyluer—xij d [816]

Item, to his servant in drinksilver, 12d.

The total should be 56s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 43

July 1553 Item vj elnis small camrage claith deliuerit to þe said robert to be gyffyn to þe ladye gordoune þe elne xviij s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 6 ells of fine cambric cloth delivered to the said Robert to be given to the Lady Gordon, each ell 18s; total: £5 8s.

Item mair send to hir with þe said robert vj elnis crysp þe elne viij s Summa—xlij s [822]

Item, also sent to her with the said Robert 6 ells of crespe, each ell 8s; total: 42s.60

August 1553 Item xxo augusti tua elnis stemmyng of myllane send to Linlithqw to be hois to my Ladye gordoun þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, August 20th, 2 ells of stemming of Milan sent to Linlithgow to be hose for my Lady Gordon, each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item vj elnis small bartane claith send to hir þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of fine Bretagne cloth sent to her, each ell 4s; total: 24s.

Item an elne cryspe—vij s

Item, an ell of crespe, 7s.

Item to Jhone craig for edgeing of ane goun of my ladye gordounis wt armene—xxx s [828]

Item, to John Craig, for edging of a gown of my Lady Gordon’s with ermine, 30s.

September 1553 Item to Dauid pook to be gyffyn for ane wardegaird to my Ladye gordoun—lv s

Item, to David Pook, to be given for a safeguard for my Lady Gordon, 55s.

Item thre bustis to hir and ladye Jene þe pece v s Summa—xv s [838]

Item, three buists? for her and Lady Jean, each piece 5s; total: 15s.

Item xvjto Sepbris foure pair ottanze gluffis deliuerit to þe ladye gordoun and Lady Jene þe pair iij s vj d Summa—xiiij s [841]

Item, September 16th, 4 pairs of goose skin gloves delivered to the Lady Gordon and Lady Jean, each pair 3s 6d; total: 14s.

Barbara Hamilton (Later Lady Gordon), the Regent’s Eldest Daughter: Wardrobe Summaries Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each  60

The total should be 48s.

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category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary March 1542/43 gown (white armosene taffeta trimmed with white velvet) [24] kirtle (white armosene taffeta, the scyes lined with white taffeta of Genoa) [24] gown (tawny damask [24] trimmed with tawny velvet and lined with white fustian [25]) kirtle (tawny velvet) [24] gown (purple velvet) [24] kirtle (red damask, lined with demigrain, in November 1548 rebodied with black fustian, relined with gray?) [24, 419] September 1543 gown (camlet trimmed with fine black velvet) [49] kirtle (black) [49] kirtle [49] February 1543/44 gown (Paris black, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, cuffed and bordered with fine ermine) [73] kirtle (Paris black, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, bordered with fine ermine) [73] [partlet (lined with black satin and buckram)]61 [73] hood (fine velvet lined with black satin) [73] muffler (velvet) [73] bongrace (velvet) [73] March 1543/44 1¼ ells black satin [78] hose (black) [78] 3 ells lawn? [78] 3 ells fine Holland cloth [78] 2 ells heavier Holland cloth [78] February 1545/46 hoods (fine black velvet lined with black satin) [186] partlets (fine black velvet lined with black satin) [186] riding gown/cloak [listed both ways] with sleeves (Paris black trimmed with velvet) [186] walking [traveling?] gown (frieze, trimmed with velvet, the forescyes lined with taffeta, the bodies with canvas) [186] kirtle (worsted, the scyes lined with red, the overparts lined with gray) [186, 189]  61

This partlet is mentioned in the grants for lining and buckram, but the main fabric for it is missing.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 45

collars and other necessities (Holland cloth) [186] smocks (linen) [186] hose (utterfine) [186] gown (red taffeta trimmed with crimson velvet, the scyes lined with red, the overparts lined with gray) [186, 189] 1 ounce black silk thread [186] 2 ounces fine Bruges thread [186] 4 papers of pins [186] December 1546 gown (Spanish frieze, bordered with velvet, lined with buckram) [240] March 1546/47 gown (black velvet) [286] April 1547 2 crepes for hoods [294] pins and needles [294] unspecified clothes made from fabric taken from the lord governor’s wardrobe [296] February 1547/48 gown (tawny velvet, lined with gray, the bodies lined with black fustian) [352] hoods (black velvet lined with black satin) [352] partlets (black velvet) [352] handkerchiefs and night kerchiefs (Bretagne cloth) [352] necessities (Holland cloth) [352] hose (utterfine) [352] 1 ounce yellow silk thread [352] three hanks of gold [352] 2 crepes for hoods [352] August 1548 (Barbara becomes a lady-in-waiting to the dowager Queen Marie de Guise) gown (fine black velvet, lined with buckram and black gray, the bodies lined with canvas) [394] hood (finer velvet, lined with black satin) [394] gown (black armosene taffeta, lined with buckram and black gray, the scyes lined with taffeta of four threads, the bodies with canvas) [394] hood (fine velvet, lined with black satin) [394] partlets (fine velvet, lined with black satin) [394] kirtle (tawny damask, lined with buckram and black gray, the body of Bruges satin, the bodies lined with canvas, the scyes lined with red stemming) [394] pair of sleeves (crimson satin) [394] ribbons for her hat [394] 1 ell of taffeta to cover her face from the sun [394]

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riding cloak (fine Paris black, trimmed with velvet) [394] shoes (velvet) [394] necessities (fine Holland cloth) [394] smocks (Bretagne cloth) [394] hose (stemming) [396] hat (covered with fine velvet, trimmed with passementerie and traces) [397] sleeves (satin) [397] gloves [397] September 1548 1 hank of gold [404] sewing silk and Bruges thread [404] 2 hats [404] October 1548 necessities (Holland cloth) [407] hose (stemming) [407] November 1548 gown (cloth of gold with sleeves of crimson satin, lined with white) [413] shoes [417] gown (crimson velvet, lined with black gray, the bodies lined with canvas, the hems lined with red taffeta of the cord) [419] gown (crimson satin, lined with black gray, the bodies lined with canvas, the hems lined with red taffeta of the cord, laced with a cord of silk [it is not clear which gown this belongs to]) [419] kirtle (crimson satin, lined with black gray, the bodies lined with canvas) [419] kirtle (white satin, lined with black gray, the bodies lined with canvas) [419] petticoat (red stemming) [419] hose (utterfine) [419] pins [419] shoes (velvet) [419] necessities (linen) [419] ribbons for her hat [419] 3 crepes [419] January 1548/49 (for her marriage) royal robe (purple velvet, lined with white taffeta of the cord, and powdered with ermine) [429] kirtle (crimson satin, lined with red stemming) [429] smocks and other necessities (Holland cloth) [429] night gown (tawny taffeta, trimmed with tawny velvet, with buckram, the scyes lined with budge, the back also furred) [429] gown (cloth of silver with white satin sleeves) [429]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 47

kirtle (cloth of gold, the bodies of green satin, with buckram) [429] February 1548/49 gown with a long train (fine tawny velvet, trimmed with tawny satin, lined with black gray, the scyes with red stemming, the bodies with canvas, the hooks and eyes replaced November 1550?) [436, 618] kirtle (gray velvet, lined with gray) [436] gown (purple velvet, the scyes lined with purple taffeta) [436] gown (crimson velvet, the hem lined with red taffeta of the cord)62 [436] safeguard [439] stomacher to wear under her royal robe (white Bruges satin) [439] hoods (black velvet, lined with black satin) [444] cornets (black velvet) [444] partlet (black satin) [444] kirtle (damask) [446] 12 pairs of gloves [450] March 1548/49 fore and back garnishing of gold for her hood [454] October 1549 kirtle (tawny velvet, the scyes lined with red) [499] gown (gray velvet) [499] September 1550 gown (black satin trimmed with black velvet, lined with gray) [611] kirtle (black velvet, the scyes lined with red broadcloth, the bodies with canvas) [611] cornets (black velvet) [611] pair of bodies [611] November 1550 hat [614] crepe [614] collars (Holland cloth) [618] December 1550 pair of knives [625] purse (crimson velvet) [625] belt (Paris ribbons) [625]

 62

It could be that this crimson velvet gown and the previous item already existed in the wardrobe and are merely having parts of their linings replaced, but in some cases new garments were listed in this way. Often it was because the main garment fabric came from the Regent’s own stores [for example, 633].

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February 1550/51 frock (Spanish frieze, trimmed with black velvet and Florence ribbons, lined with gray, furred with rabbit) [635] November 1551 hood (black velvet lined with black satin) [659] partlet (black velvet lined with taffeta) [659] petticoat (red unwatered camlet, lined with buckram, furred with white lamb) [660] safeguard [660] January 1551/52 gown with a long train and two pairs of sleeves (black double-pile velvet, lined with Genoa taffeta and black gray, the bodies with canvas?) [673] hood with furnishing (black velvet) [673] small necessities (probably for hoods, but could be partlets—1¼ ells fine black satin lined with 2 ells of buckram) [673] small necessities for hoods (white satin) [673] 2 crepes [673] skirt (yellow satin lined with yellow buckram) [673] sleeves (yellow satin) [673] skirt (white satin lined with white buckram) [673] sleeves (white satin) [673] hose (stemming of Milan) [673] shoes (black velvet) [673] slippers (black velvet) [673] hank of sewing gold [683] smocks (fine Bretagne cloth) [680] 3½ ells of fine cambric to draw forth the sleeves of her gowns [680] May 1552 petticoat (red stemming of Milan) [718] hood (fine black velvet) [718] partlet (fine black velvet) [718] skirt (satin) [718] sleeves (satin) [718] gown (purple satin lined with purple taffeta) [718] gown with a long train (black damask) [719] buist [719] June 1552 gown (gray velvet, lined with taffeta) [727] 1¼ ells of taffeta of the cord to put about her head [727] hose (stemming of Milan) [727]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 49

November 1552 cloak (unpressed black, bordered with velvet) [757] skirt (unpressed black, bordered with velvet) [757] gown (fine black of the seal of Rouen, bordered with black velvet, lined with black taffeta of four threads, the bodies lined with canvas) [757] hoods (black velvet) [757] partlets (black velvet) [757] skirt (black satin) [757] petticoat (red stemming of Milan) [757] 2 ells of gall cloth [757] 3 ells of lawn [757] 4 ells fine cambric cloth [757] 1 ounce crimson silk thread [757] 1 ounce black satin silk thread [757] large hank of sewing gold [757] December 1552 mourning gown (black of the seal of Rouen, lined with gray, the sleeves and bodies lined with fustian, furred with miniver and edged with ermine, fastened with hooks and eyes) [773] mourning hood (black of the seal of Rouen, lined with gray?, furred with lettice) [773] mourning kerchiefs (cambric) [773] kerchiefs (fine Holland cloth) [773] February 1552/53 riding cloak (unpressed black) [789] skirt (unpressed black) [789] unpressed black to lay upon her head [789] felt hat lined with taffeta [789] March 1552/53 gown (black of the seal of Rouen, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, fastened with hooks and eyes, edged with ermine) [798] safeguard (gray fustian) [798] mourning kerchiefs (fine Holland cloth) [798] 4 ells cambric [798] April 1553 mourning kerchief (cambric) [809] June 1553 smocks (fine Bretagne cloth) [816] 6 ells of canvas for her sew cushions upon [816] 2 pairs of shoes (black cloth) [816]

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2 pairs of shoes (friezed leather) [816] July 1553 6 ells fine cambric cloth [822] 6 ells of crespe [822] August 1553 hose (stemming of Milan) [828] 6 ells fine Bretagne cloth [828] 1 ell of crespe [828] September 1553 safeguard [838] buists? [838] 2 pairs of goose skin gloves [841]

Summary by Category Gowns mourning gown [773] velvet gowns [24, 286, 352, 394, 419, 436/618?, 436,63 499, 673, 727] taffeta gowns [24, 186/189, 394] satin gowns [419, 611, 718] damask gowns [24/25, 719] cloth of silver and gold gowns [413, 429] frieze gowns [186, 240] black64 gowns [73, 757, 798] camlet gown [49] Night Gown [429] Frock [635] Kirtles velvet kirtles [24, 436, 499, 611] damask kirtles [24/419?, 352, 446] satin kirtles [419, 429] worsted kirtles [186, 189] other kirtles [24, 49, 73, 429]  63

See note 62, above. This is a fabric name, not a color name.

 64



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 45 1

Skirts [673, 718, 757, 789] Safeguards [439, 660, 798, 838] Petticoats [419, 660, 718, 757] Cloaks riding gown/cloaks [186, 394, 757, 789] royal robe [429]65 Sleeves satin sleeves [394, 397, 673, 718] velvet sleeves [673] cambric to draw forth the sleeves of her gowns [680] Partlets velvet partlets [186, 352, 394, 659, 718, 757] other partlets [73, 444] Collars [186, 618] Muffler [73] Smocks [186, 394, 429, 680, 816] Pair of Bodies [611] Hats [397, 404, 614, 789] ribbons for hats [394, 419] Hoods and Hood Parts mourning hood [773] velvet hoods [73, 186, 352, 394, 444, 659, 673, 718, 757] crepes for hoods [294, 352, 419, 614, 673]  65

See p. 000 for the reasoning behind including this in the “Cloaks” section.

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cornets [444, 611] other hood parts [73, 454, 673] Other headwear mourning kerchiefs [773, 798, 809] other kerchiefs [352, 773] fabric to cover her head and face [394, 727, 789] Hose stemming hose [396, 407, 673, 727, 828] utterfine hose [186, 352, 419] black66 hose [78] Footwear velvet shoes [394, 419, 673] other shoes [417, 816] slippers [or overshoes] [673] Gloves [397, 450, 841] Belt [625] Handkerchiefs [352] Fabric and Notions Holland cloth [78, 186, 352, 394, 407, 429] cambric [757, 798, 822] crespe [822, 828] other fabrics [78, 419, 757, 816, 828] pins and needles [186, 294, 419] gold thread [352, 404, 683, 757] other thread [186, 352, 404, 757] Miscellaneous unspecified clothes [296] pair of knives [625] purse [625] small necessities [673] buists [719] [838]  66

This is a fabric name, not a color name.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 45 3

Jean Hamilton Jean was the middle daughter, probably born in 1535.67 Although she was contracted to marry George, Lord Gordon (younger brother to Alexander, Barbara’s first husband), she apparently also had some kind of relationship with Hugh, Earl of Eglinton. She officially resigned her rights to Hugh to her younger sister Anne, but in the end they swapped fiances. Jean married Hugh (February 1554/5568—though she later divorced him69), and Anne married George (August 1558), later the fifth Earl of Huntley.70 Jean seems to have been the forgotten daughter. Compared to that given to her sisters, the clothing granted her was small in quantity and relatively poor in quality. In 1544, she was granted a small wardrobe before she was sent to an abbey. One wool gown and one silk kirtle, collars, and smocks sent her on her way. Later that year she was given a silk gown and kirtle, a partlet, and a hood and cornet. She disappears entirely from the Accounts for four years, so the abbey may have clothed the growing girl until 1548. Jean received a fairly modest wardrobe upon entering service as one of the girls accompanying the young Mary Stewart (later known as Mary, Queen of Scots) when she went to live in France in 1548. Jean herself was younger than usual for a waiting maid—all of the girls accompanying Mary were, so that they might be companions for the young queen. Aside from a considerable number of pairs of hose, her new wardrobe seems rather meager for her new station, particularly in comparison to what her sisters Barbara and Anne received when they became waiting maids. Once she became part of Mary’s retinue, her clothing would have been provided by the French court, though the funding might have come from Marie de Guise’s income, as she was financing the larger part of her daughter’s household in France. In September 1553 Jean was given another grant of clothing, this time of a slightly better quality than her previous wardrobe and more comparable to her sisters’. Perhaps the Regent perceived her to be of an age for marriage and wished to dress her according to her station at last, or it might have been that she was finally old enough to press her claim for clothing appropriate for her status. December 1543

 67

Item þe xix day of December for tua elnis vterris fyne to be hois to ane of my lord gouernoris douchteris callit lady Gene price of þe elne xxxiij s Summa— iij li vj s

Item, the 19th day of December, for 2 ells of utterfine to be hose for one of my lord governor’s daughters called Lady Jean, price of each ell 33s; total: £3 6s.

Item foure elnis small holand claith to be hir collaris and other necessaris pryce of þe elne xiij s Summa—lij s [64]

Item, 4 ells of fine Holland cloth to be collars and other necessities for her, price of each ell 13s; total: 52s.

Blakeway, “Divorce,” 6. NRS GD3/2/4/16.  69 NRS GD3/1/10/71/3.  70 Hamilton, History, 17–18.  68

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April 1544

 71

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis douchter gene hammiltoun at hir departing to þe abbay of hadingtoun vj elnis variant chamlot to be hir ane goune price of þe elne xij s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s daughter Jean Hamilton at her departing to the abbey of Haddington, 6 ells of variegated camlet to be a gown for her, price of each ell 12s; total: £3 12s.

Item half ane elne and 71 welwot to begary þe said goun price

Item, ½ ell and velvet to trim the said gown, price

Item for gray to lyne þe samyn—

Item, for gray to line the same

Item thre elnis gray taffate de armosen [to be] hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xl s Summa—[vj li]

Item, 3 ells of gray armosene taffeta to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 40s; total: [£6].

Item vij quarteris franche reid to lyne þe sychtis of þe said kirtill pryce of þe elne x s Summa—xvij s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of French red to line the scyes of the said kirtle, price of each ell 10s; total: 17s 6d.

Item for gray to lyne þe bak quarteris of þis said kirtill—ij s viij d

Item, for gray to line the back quarters of this said kirtle, 2s 8d.

Item for fustiane and glaspis to þe goun—v s

Item, for fustian and clasps for the gown, 5s.

Item for thre elnis small holand claith to be hir colarris and other necessaris price of þe elne xij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, for 3 ells of fine Holland cloth to be her collars and other necessities, price of each ell 12s; total: 36s.

Item vj elnis lynnyng claith to be hir sarkis price of þe elne xx d Summa—x s

Item, 6 ells of linen cloth to be her smocks, price of each ell 20d; total: 10s.

Item for making of þe foresaid clathis— xiiij s [84]

Item, for making of the aforesaid clothes, 14s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. Paul’s transcription does not include content from the damaged section, though he did fill in the missing parts of the line item regarding the taffeta kirtle.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 45 5

December 1544 Item half ane elne of sating to be ane quarnat and lyne ane hude of ane douchter of my lord gouernoris callit Lady gene price þairof—xviij s

Item, ½ ell of satin to be a cornet and line a hood of a daughter of my lord governor’s called Lady Jean, price thereof 18s.

Item half ane elne of taffate to lyne hir ane paitlot of welwot þe welwot gottin furt of þe castell price—ix s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta to line a partlet of velvet for her, the velvet gotten forth from the castle, price 9s.

Item half ane elne of purpour taffate to eik furth ane goun of hirris þe laif gottin furth of þe castell price þairof—ix s

Item, ½ ell of purple taffeta to enlarge a gown of hers, the remainder gotten forth from the castle, price thereof 9s.

Item ane elne of demegrane to lyne þe sychtis of ane kirtill of hirris of dalmes and gottin furt of þe castell price þairof—xxix s

Item, an ell of demigrain to line the scyes of a kirtle of hers of damask, and the damask gotten forth from the castle, price thereof 29s.

Item tua elnis canves to lyne þe bodyis and slevis of þis goun and kirtill—iiij s viij d

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies and sleeves of this gown and kirtle, 4s 8d.

Item half ane vnce of purpour sylk to sew þis goun and kirtill price—iiij s

Item, ½ ounce of purple silk to sew this gown and kirtle, price 4s.

Item for blak gray to lyne þis goun & kirtill—vij s vj d [104]

Item, for black gray to line this gown and kirtle, 7s 6d.

July 1548

 72

Item xto Julii foure elnis and ane quartar ȝallo welwote to be ane kirtill to Gene hammiltoun douchter to my Lord gouernour at hir departing to france price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xv li xvij s ix d

Item, July 10th, 4¼ ells of yellow velvet to be a kirtle for Jean Hamilton, daughter to my lord governor, at her departing to France, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £15 17s 9d.72

Item thre elnis crammosye armose taffate to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—v li v s

Item, 3 ells of crimson armosene taffeta to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 35s; total: £5 5s.

Item to be hir hude and paitlat vj quartaris welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, to be a hood and partlet for her, 1½ ells of velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £6.

Item ane elne of sating to be hir bonegrace and other necessares—xxxvj s

Item, an ell of satin to be a bongrace and other necessities for her, 36s.

The total should be £15 18s 9d.

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Item half ane elne of welwote to be hir schone price—xl s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for her, price 40s.

Item foure elnis hollande claith to be hir other necessaris price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 4 ells of Holland cloth to be other necessities for her, price of each ell 14s; total: 56s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be hir foure pair of hois price—xl s

Item, an ell of stemming to be four pairs of hose for her, price 40s.

Item ane elne of taffate to couer hir heid— xviij s

Item, an ell of taffeta to cover her head, 18s.

Item vij elnis gray to lyne hir kirtillis and gounis quhilk wes furnist of my lord gouernoures silkes furt of þe castell price of þe elne iij s vj d Summa—xxiiij s vj d

Item, 7 ells of gray to line her kirtles and gowns [the material for] which was furnished from my lord governor’s silks forth from the castle, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 24s 6d.

Item to lyne þe sychtis of hir kirtill tua elnis and ane half reid price of þe elne xxvj s Summa—iij li v s

Item, to line the scyes of her kirtle, 2½ ells of red, price of each ell 26s; total: £3 5s.

Item xj quartaris canves to lyne þe bodyis of þir gownnes—vj s x d ob

Item, 2¾ ells of canvas to line the bodies of these gowns, 6s 10½d.

Item thre pair of gluffis—vj s73

Item, three pairs of gloves, 6s.

Item xij elnis lynnyng claith to be hir sarkis—xxx s

Item, 12 ells of linen cloth to be her smocks, 30s.

Item ane hat—xx s

Item, a hat, 20s.

Item ane other elne of stemmyng to be hir hois—xv s

Item, another ell of stemming to be hose for her, 15s.

Item iiij paper of pinnis—xij s

Item, 4 papers of pins, 12s.

…

…

Item gevin mair to eik furth her kirtill thre quartaris crammosye taffate—xxvj s [387]

Item, also given to enlarge her kirtle, ¾ ell of crimson taffeta, 26s.

Three pairs of gloves for the Regent are listed where the ellipsis appears below. They are item 387

 73

in Chapter 4.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 457

Item to dauid spens send to Dumbertane with my lord gouernoures sone and douchterris clathis at þair departing to france— xlix s [393]

Item, to David Spense, sent to Dumbarton with my lord governor’s son’s and daughter’s clothes at their departing to France, 49s.

June 1553 Item tua elne & ane quartar reid bukrum to lyne þe slewis of ane goun to ladye Jene doichter to my lorde gouernour þe elne ij s viij d Summa—vj s [818]

Item, 2¼ ells of red buckram to line the sleeves of a gown for Lady Jean, daughter to my lord governor, each ell 2s 8d; total: 6s.

September 1553 Item vjto Septembris deliuerit to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour thre elnis and ane half of franche blak of þe seill of rowane to be ane goun to my lorde gouernoures douchter lady Jene þe elne iij li Summa—x li x s

Item, September 6th, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 3½ ells of French black of the seal of Rouen to be a gown for my lord governor’s daughter, Lady Jean, each ell £3; total: £10 10s.

Item xvj elnis braid pasmentis of silk to put on þe goun þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—xxxvij s iiij d

Item, 16 ells of broad passementerie of silk to put on the gown, each ell 2s 4d; total: 37s 4d.

Item half an vnce silk to sew on þe pasmentis price—iiij s

Item, ½ ounce of silk to sew on the passementerie, price 4s.

Item v quartaris new bukrame to lyne þe fore skyrttis of þis goun þe elne iiij s Summa—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of new buckram to line the foreskirts of the gown, each ell 4s; total: 5s.

Item v quartaris lyning fustiane to lyne þe slewis of þe same þe elne v s Summa—vj s iij d

Item, 1¼ ells of lining fustian to line the sleeves of the same, each ell 5s; total: 6s 3d.

Item tua elnes gray to lyne þe taill of it þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the hem of it, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Item for canves to lyne þe bodyis of it—ij s

Item, for canvas to line the bodies of it, 2s.

Item for glaspis to It—xij d

Item, for clasps for it, 12d.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar blak welwote to be slewis and ane paitlat to hir þe elne iiij li Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 1⅛ ells of black velvet to be sleeves and a partlet for her, each ell £4; total: £4 10s.

45 8

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Item ane quartar and ane nale of taffateis to lyne þe paitlat wt þe elne xvj s Summa—v s

Item, 5⁄16 ell of taffeta to line the partlet with, each ell 16s; total: 5s.

Item to Jhone andersoun for making of þis goune and paitlat—xiiij s

Item, to John Anderson, for making of this gown and partlet, 14s.

Item ane elne of taffateis to put about hir heid—xvj s [836]

Item, an ell of taffeta to put about her head, 16s.

Item thre bustis to hir and ladye Jene þe pece v s Summa—xv s [838]

Item, three buists? for her [Barbara] and Lady Jean, each piece 5s; total: 15s.

Item xvjto Sepbris foure pair ottanze gluffis deliuerit to þe ladye gordoun and Lady Jene þe pair iij s vj d Summa—xiiij s [841]

Item, September 16th, four pairs of goose skin gloves delivered to the Lady Gordon and Lady Jean, each pair 3s 6d; total: 14s.

Item tua elnis and ane half taffateis of growgrane deliuerit to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour to be ane cloke to my Lorde gouernoures douchter Lady Jene þe elne xliiij s Summa—v li x s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta of grosgrain delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a cloak for my lord governor’s daughter, Lady Jean, each ell 44s; total: £5 10s.

Item ten elnis pasmentis of silk to put on þe samyn cloke þe elne ij s vj d Summa—xxv s

Item, 10 ells of passementerie of silk to put on the same cloak, each ell 2s 6d; total: 25s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furring of þe said cloke wt cwnyngis In þe forequarteris and lambeskynnes behind—iiij li x s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the said cloak with rabbit in the forequarters and lamb skins behind, £4 10s.

Item to Jhone andersoun for making of þe said cloke—ix s [843]

Item, to John Anderson, for making of the said cloak, 9s.

Item fyve elnis reid vnwatterit champlat to be ane pittecote to my Lady Jene þe elne vj s viij d Summa—xxxiij s iiij d

Item, 5 ells of red unwatered camlet to be a petticoat for my Lady Jean, each ell 6s 8d; total: 33s 4d.

Item quartar and half quartar welwote to bordour þe same price—xxx s

Item, ⅜ ell of velvet to border the same, price 30s.

Item ane quartar of ane vnce silk to steik on þe bordoures—ij s

Item, ¼ ounce of silk to sew on the borders, 2s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of þe same—iij s

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of the same, 3s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furring of þis vylecote wt quhite lambeskynnes—xxx s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this petticoat with white lamb skins, 30s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 459

Item to Jhone andersoun for making of it—vj s

Item, to John Anderson, for making of it, 6s.

Item v quartaris of quhite fustiane to be slevis to it—viij s iiij d [844]

Item, 1¼ ells of white fustian to be sleeves for it, 8s 4d.

Anne Hamilton Anne was the Regent’s youngest daughter.74 For the story of her marriage, see her sister Jean above. Anne served as a maiden of the chamber (lady-in-waiting) to dowager Queen Marie de Guise and had an unremarkable wardrobe before her service began in late 1551. She had gowns of silk and wool and the usual accompaniments. Certain items that one would expect to find in her wardrobe are not listed. For example, there is not a single kirtle associated with Anne in the regency Accounts, suggesting that her kirtles may have been hand-medowns from her older sisters. Once she entered service as a waiting maid, however, her wardrobe expanded enormously. It included velvet gowns, a furred night gown, a cloak and a petticoat for keeping warm, several pairs of sleeves, and various accessories. The crimson velvet gown trimmed with passementerie was exceptional in its richness. Anne’s taste was fairly exceptional, though. Only about half of her clothing was black, gray, or tawny. She was granted four pairs of satin sleeves in red, white, black, and yellow, and four matching satin hoods as well as a crimson velvet one trimmed to match the gown with passementerie and a more conventional black velvet one.75 After the first major additions to her wardrobe when she entered service, Anne continued to receive additional clothing through the end of this portion of the Accounts. She was granted more day and night gowns, both wool and silk, including a striking ensemble of a white damask gown bordered with white velvet, sleeves of white velvet stuffed with buckram and drawn out with crespe, and a white velvet hood. There was also a pair of crimson velvet sleeves and a matching hood that she could wear with the white gown for variety. Among the many other sleeves were another set of red, white, black, and yellow satin which were again accompanied by a set of four matching satin hoods, a little over a year after the first set was granted. Smocks, collars, gloves, shoes, and other miscellaneous accessories rounded out this substantial wardrobe. Some of Anne’s clothes were made and later repaired by the dowager queen’s tailor, just as her sister Barbara’s were. Other items were sewn by her servant Euphemie, especially linen garments like her smocks and collars, which were not traditionally made by male tailors. A summary of the clothing Anne received in the Accounts follows the transcriptions and translations below.

 74

Blakeway puts Anne’s birth in 1546 (“Divorce,” 12) based on an entry in the Accounts in that year regarding the birth of a child to the Regent and other entries in his household accounts. That would, however, mean that she was six years old when she began as a maiden of the chamber to Marie de Guise, which seems unlikely.  75 See pp. 112–14 for more information on the likely style of Anne’s hoods.

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May 1549 Item quartar and half quartar crammosye welwote to be ane hude to my lord gouernoures ȝongest douchter lady An þe elne viij li Summa—iij li

Item, ⅜ ell of crimson velvet to be a hood for my lord governor’s youngest daughter, Lady Anne, each ell £8; total: £3.

Item tua elnis hollande claith to be hir necessares—xxx s [472]

Item, 2 ells of Holland cloth to be necessities for her, 30s.

September 1549 Item to be ane goun to his graces ȝongest douchter Ladye An tua elnis and ane half ȝallo taffate armosene price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—v li x s

Item, to be a gown for his grace’s youngest daughter, Lady Anne, 2½ ells of yellow armosene taffeta, price of each ell 44s; total: £5 10s.

Item to begary þis goune and to be hir hude and paitlat and other necessares fyve quartaris fyne blak welwote price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—iiij li xiij s ix d [493]

Item, to trim this gown and to be hood and partlet and other necessities for her, 1¼ ells of fine black velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £4 13s 9d.

Item to Jhonn Andersoun tailȝeour send furt of Edinburgh to hammyltoun to mak þir clay tis and þe clay tis send to my lord gouernoures dochter for his lauboures expenss and hors hyre and for þe making of certane clay tis to þe bairnys of hereis þair—[…] [496]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, sent forth from Edinburgh to Hamilton to make these clothes and the clothes sent to my lord governor’s daughter, for his labors, expenses, and horse rental and for the making of certain clothes for the children of Herries there—[…]

October 1549 Item xv to Octobris to […] andersoun tailȝeour at his passing to hammilton and tarying thair be þe space of xij dayes and tua seruandis with him In making of clathis to þe tua airis of heres to Gene lyle and to my lorde gouernoures douchter In compleit pament of xj li xij s—viij li v s [503]

Item, October 15th, to [ John] Anderson, tailor, at his passing to Hamilton and tarrying there for the space of 12 days, and two servants with him, in making of clothes for the two heirs of Herries, for Jean Lyle, and for my lord governor’s daughter, in complete payment of £11 12s; [total:] £8 5s. [This and the deleted entry above could have been for either Barbara or Anne.]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 461

February 1549/50 Item to be ane goun to his graces ȝoungest dochter foure elnis and ane quartar gray dalmeȝ þe elne xxxviij s summa—viij li xviij d

Item, to be a gown for his grace’s youngest daughter, 4¼ ells of gray damask, each ell 38s; total: £8 0s 18d.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þis goun—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line this gown, 10s.

Item half ane elne canves to þe bodeis of It—ij s [528]

Item, ½ ell of canvas for the bodies of it, 2s.

May 1550 Item to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeoure for making of tua gownnes to þe airris of colluthye ane to my Ladye gouernour and ane to my lordis douchter—xlvj s

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of two gowns for the heiress of Colluthie, one to my lady governor, and one to my lord’s daughter, 46s.

Item for bukrum to tua hudis to my lorde gouernoures douchter—xvj d [587]

Item, for buckram for two hoods for my lord governor’s daughter, 16d.

November 1550

 76

Item for twa crapittis ane to my Lady gordoun ane vther to Lady Anna price of þe pece xxiij s Summa—xlvj s

Item, for two crepes, one for my Lady Gordon, another for Lady Anne, price of each piece 23s; total: 46s.

Item to Johnne Andersoun for halsbedis braislattis and certane uther gegis76 quhilkis my lord governoure causit Robert gourlaw tak fra him to Lady Anna—iij li ix s [614]

Item, to John Anderson for necklaces, bracelets, and certain other trinkets? which my lord governor caused Robert Gourlaw to take from him to Lady Anne, £3 9s.

Item xxiiijo Nouembris coft to lyne ane govne of tanny taffiteis to Lady Anna þe taffiteis gottin out of my lord governouris wardrop thre elnis Lynyng gray price of þe elne v s Summa—xv s

Item, November 24th, bought to line a gown of tawny taffeta for Lady Anne, the taffeta gotten out of my lord governor’s wardrobe, 3 ells of lining gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 15s.

Item thre quarteris of canves to lyne þe bodyis of þis govne price of þe elne iiij s Summa—iij s

Item, ¾ ell of canvas to line the bodies of this gown, price of each ell 4s; total: 3s.

This word may be a rendering of “gewgaws,” which leads to the hypothetical translation of “trinkets.” This reading is admittedly a stretch, but it does work in the context of the line item. Paul transcribed “gagis,” but the original definitely reads “gegis.”

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Item ane vnce of silk to steik on þe bordouris þairof—x s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew on the borders thereof, 10s.

Item claspis to þis govne and to my Lady gordonis govne of tanny veluet—iij s

Item, clasps for this gown and for my Lady Gordon’s gown of tawny velvet, 3s.

Item for making of þe govne—xij s

Item, for making of the gown, 12s.

Item to lyne ane hude to hir of crammesy veluet quarter & half quarter quhite sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—xv s

Item, to line a hood for her of crimson velvet, ⅜ ell of white satin, price of each ell 40s; total: 15s.

Item for making of þis hude—viij s [618]

Item, for making of this hood, 8s.77

October 1551

 77

Item deliuerit to Johnne andersoun tailȝeour to be ane gowne to lady anne tway elnis and ane quarter paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to be a gown for Lady Anne, 2¼ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane elne of welwett to bordour þis gowne and tobe hir ane hude price þairof—iij li x s

Item, an ell of velvet to border this gown, and to be a hood for her, price thereof £3 10s.

Item foure elnis and ane half gray dammes tobe hir ane gowne price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li

Item, 4½ ells of gray damask to be a gown for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £9.

Item thre quarteris gray welwett to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—lij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of gray velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 52s 6d.

Item foure elnis thre quarteris gray to lyne þir gownis price of þe elne v s Summa— xxiij s ix d

Item, 4¾ ells of gray to line these gowns, price of each ell 5s; total: 23s 9d.

Item ffor silk to styk þe bordouris of þe samyn—x s

Item, for silk to sew the borders of the same, 10s.

Item for canves to þame—v s

Item, for canvas for them, 5s.

Item for Johnne andersoun for making of þir tway gownis and hude and for bukcrame to lyne þe hude—xx s

Item, to John Anderson for making of these two gowns and hood, and for buckram to line the hood, 20s.

Item ane elne of bukcrame to pak þir claithis In price þairof—iij s [652]

Item, an ell of buckram to pack these clothes in, price thereof 3s.

These last three items could be for Barbara, but they are probably for Anne, as the next item is specified as being for Barbara.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 463

Item ane boy send to lynly tqw wt ane coit to Clawde my lord gouernouris sone and tway gownis to lady anne and his wage—iij s [655]

Item, a boy sent to Linlithgow with a coat for Claude, my lord governor’s son, and two gowns for Lady Anne, and his wage, 3s.

November 1551 Item deliuerit to þe said Johnne tobe ane hude and ane part claitht to my lady gordoune and ane partclayt to lady anne tway elnis ane quarter blak welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li xvij s vj d

Item, delivered to the said John to be a hood and a partlet for my Lady Gordon, and a partlet for my Lady Anne, 2¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7 17s 6d.

…

…

Item half ane elne and half ane quarter taffiteis to lyne þir tway partclay tis price thairof—x s

Item, ⅝ ell of taffeta to line their two partlets, price thereof 10s.

Item for making of þis hude tway partclatis and for silk to sew þame wt—xv s

Item, for making of this hood, two partlets, and for silk to sew them with, 15s.

Item ane craipe to lady annis hude price þairof—xxiij s [659]

Item, a crepe for Lady Anne’s hood, price thereof 23s.

December 1551: The section heading is “The expensis debursit vpoun my lord governouris douchter lady anne at hir putting to þe quene.”78

 78

Item deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour tobe ane gowne to my lord gouernouris doichter anne v elnis gray welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xvij li x s

Item, delivered to the queen’s tailor to be a gown for my lord governor’s daughter Anne, 5 ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £17 10s.

Item tway elnis gray taffiteis to lyne the samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of gray taffeta to line the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne this gowne and ane gowne of figurate welwett gottin furt of my lord gouernouris gardrope price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line this gown and a gown of figured velvet gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

[The expenses disbursed upon my lord governor’s daughter Lady Anne at her putting to the queen.] “Putting to” is probably used in this context with the sense of putting a male animal in with a female to see if they will breed. In other words, Anne was being sent to the queen to see if they would suit each other.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tway elnis bukcrame to bowster þir gownis witht price of þe elne iij s Summa— vj s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to bolster [stuff or pad] these gowns with, price of each ell 3s; total: 6s.

Item thre quarteris small canves to lyne þe bodeis of þe samyn price þairof—ij s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of fine canvas to line the bodies of the same, price thereof 2s 6d.

Item tway elnis blak taffite of four threddis to lyne þe gowne of fygurett welwett wt price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of black taffeta of four threads to line the gown of figured velvet with, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item deliuerit to þe said tailȝeour four elnis satin to be hir four hudis and four pair of slevis viz ane elne crammesy satin price þairof—iij li x s

Item, delivered to the said tailor, 4 ells of satin, to be four hoods and four pairs of sleeves for her, namely, an ell of crimson satin, price thereof £3 10s.

Item ane elne blak satin ane elne quhite satin and ane elne ȝallow satin price of every elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, an ell of black satin, an ell of white satin, and an ell of yellow satin, price of every ell, 40s; total: £6.

Item tway elnis bukcrame to lyne thir hudis price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line these hoods, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item tway elnis taffiteis of foure threddis to lyne the saidis hudis and slevis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the said hoods and sleeves, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for wyire to þir hudis—vj d

Item, for wire for these hoods, 6d.

Item thre elnis rubben silk to cover þe wyre of þe hudis price of þe elne xiiij d Summa— iij s vj d

Item, 3 ells of ribbon silk to cover the wire of the hoods, price of each ell 14d; total: 3s 6d.

Item tobe hir ane wardegard tway elnis bukcrame price of þe elne iiij s Summa— viij s

Item, to be a safeguard for her, 2 ells of buckram, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item ane elne and ane quarter bred reid to be hir ane vylecoit price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxxv s

Item, 1¼ ells of broad red to be a petticoat, price of each ell 28s; total: 35s.

Item deliuerit to þe said tailȝeour v elnis crammasy welwett tobe hir ane gowne with ane hude and slevis price of þe elne viij li Summa—xl li

Item, delivered to the said tailor 5 ells of crimson velvet to be a gown for her, with a hood and sleeves, price of each ell £8; total: £40.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 46 5

 79

Item tway elnis reid taffiteis of foure threddis to lyne this gowne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of red taffeta of four threads to line this gown, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item half ane elne demygrane to lyne þe far skirt of þis gowne price þairof—xvj s

Item, ½ ell of demigrain to line the foreskirt of this gown, price thereof 16s.

Item for canves to lyne the bodeis of this gowne with—xvj d

Item, for canvas to line the bodies of this gown with, 16d.

Item ane elne and ane quarter bukcrame to lyne the slevis of þis gowne and ane hude of crammasy welwett price of þe elne iij s Summa—v s

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram to line the sleeves of this gown, and a hood of crimson velvet, price of each ell 3s; total: 5s.79

Item to lyne þe samin gowne wt ane elne of gray price þairof—v s

Item, to line the same gown with, an ell of gray, price thereof 5s.

Item x elnis brad pasmentis of gold tobe put on this gowne and hudis price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—vij li

Item, 10 ells of broad passementerie of gold to be put on this gown and hood, price of each ell 14s; total: £7.

Item four elnis narrow pasmentis price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 4 ells of narrow passementerie, price of each ell 8s; total: 32s.

Item half ane elne braid reid tobe hir hois price þairof—xiiij s

Item, ½ ell of broad red to be hose for her, price thereof 14s.

Item to þe quenis tailȝeour for making of þir clathis conforme to his compt bill—vij li vj d

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of these clothes, conforming to his bill of account, £7 6d.

Item deliuerit to effame hir seruitrix v quarteris taffite tobe ane tippett to lady anne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xx s

Item, delivered to Euphemie, her maidservant, 1¼ ells of taffeta to be a tippet for Lady Anne, price of each ell 16s; total: 20s.

Item xvj elnis bartane claith tobe sarkis and napekynnis to hir price of þe elne ij s viij d Summa—xl s

Item, 16 ells of Bretagne cloth to be smocks and handkerchiefs for her, price of each ell 2s 8d; total: 40s.80

Item tway elnis small holand claith to be hir collaris and vþeris necessaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of fine Holland cloth to be collars and other necessities for her, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane caise wt kamys price þairof—xiiij s

Item, a case with combs, price thereof 14s.

The total should be 3s 9d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 4s instead of 3s. The total should be 42s 8d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 15 instead of 16.

 80

46 6

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane spunge and ane rubber to hir price of þame bayt—iiij s

Item, a sponge and a rubber for her, price of them both, 4s.

Item ane coffer to pute hir claithtis in price þairof—iij li

Item, a coffer to put her clothes in, price thereof £3.

Item for ane paire of knyvis to hir—xxiij s [668]

Item, for a pair of knives for her, 23s.

Item deliuerit to þe said effame to sew hir maistres claithis with ane vnce and ane quarter vnce silk price of þe vnce viij s Summa—x s

Item, delivered to the said Euphemie to sew her mistress’s clothes with, 1¼ ounces of silk, price of each ounce 8s; total: 10s.

Item thre vnce birge threid price þairof— iij s

Item, 3 ounces Bruges thread, price thereof 3s.

Item to þe said effame to by colis and certane vþeris necessaris to lady annis chalmer—iij li iij s

Item, to the said Euphemie to buy coals and certain other necessities for Lady Anne’s chamber, £3 3s.

Item ane watter poitt price þairof—vj s [671]

Item, a water pot, price thereof 6s.

January 1551/52 Item xxo Januarii deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour to be ane ny t gowne to lady anne four elnis blak daimes price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, January 20th, delivered to the queen’s tailor to be a night gown for Lady Anne, 4 ells of black damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item to walt þis gowne ane qrter and half quarter blak welwet price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxvj s iij d

Item, to trim this gown, ⅜ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 26s 3d.

Item ane elne of bukcrame to lyn þe bordouris of þis gowne price þairof—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line the borders of this gown, price thereof 4s.

Item to Johnne crage furrour for furring of þis gowne and slevis þairof wt cunnyngis and þe bak þairof wt blak lambskynnis—iij li x s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this gown and sleeves thereof with rabbit, and the back thereof with black lamb skins, £3 10s.

Item tway elnis and ane half armosy taffiteis tobe hir ane cloik price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iiij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of armosene taffeta to be a cloak for her, price of each ell 38s; total: £4 15s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 467

Item ane quarter and half quarter gray welwett to walt þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxvj s iij d

Item, ⅜ ell of gray velvet to trim the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: 26s 3d.

Item ane elne of bukcrame to lyne þe bordouris of þis cloik price þairof—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line the borders of this cloak, price thereof 4s.

Item to Johnne craig furrour for furring of þis cloik wt ane furring gottin furt of my lord gouernouris garderob for his lawbouris—vj s

Item, to John Craig, furrier, for furring of this cloak with a furring gotten forth from my lord governor’s wardrobe, for his labors, 6s.

Item deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour to be hir corinettis and missellis half ane elne blak welwet price þairof—xxxvij s vj d

Item, delivered to the queen’s tailor, to be cornets and mufflers ½ ell of black velvet, price thereof 37s 6d.

Item half ane elne blak satin to lyne þe samyn price þairof—xx s

Item, ½ ell of black satin to line the same, price thereof 20s.

Item for thre crappis to hir hudis price of þe peice xxij s Summa—iij li vj s

Item, for three crepes for her hoods, price of each piece 22s; total: £3 6s.

Item v quarteris round canves deliuerit to hir seruand to cover hir claithis witht price of þe elne ij s viij d Summa—iij s iiij d

Item, 1¼ ells of heavy canvas delivered to her servant to cover her clothes with, price of each ell 2s 8d; total; 3s 4d.

Item deliuerit to hir seruand tway bwistis for hir breist price of þe peice iij s Summa—vj s

Item, delivered to her servant two buists for her breast, price of each piece 3s; total: 6s.

Item deliuerit to homeir leis to be schone to hir half ane elne blak welwett price þairof—xxxv s [675]

Item, delivered to Homer Leis to be shoes for her, ½ ell of black velvet, price thereof 35s.

Item xvo Januarii deliuerit to effame kepar to lady anne tway collaris for hir maistres price of þe peice xlv s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, January 15th, delivered to Euphemie, keeper to Lady Anne, two collars for her mistress, price of each piece 45s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane hat of welwett price þairof—iiij li

Item, a hat of velvet, price thereof £4.

Item ane caise witht kamys price þairof— xiiij s

Item, a case with combs, price thereof 14s.

Item ane paper witht prenis price—v s

Item, a paper with pins, price 5s.

Item tway elnis belting silk price of þe elne viij s Summa—xvj s [676]

Item, 2 ells of belting silk, price of each ell, 8s; total: 16s.

46 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to þe quenis tailȝeour for making of clething to my ladyis gordoune and anne and þair keparis conforme to his compt billis xvij li vij s viij d of þe quhilk I haue dischargit in þe last monetht w t vij li vj d and þairfor now dischargis wt þe rest viz—x li vii s ij d [680]

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of clothing for my Ladies Gordon and Anne and their keepers conforming to his account bills £17 7s 8d, of the which I have discharged in the last month with £7 6d; and therefore now discharges with the rest, namely, £10 7s 2d.

February 1551/52 Item quinto februarii deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour tway elnis taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe taile of ane auld gowne of lady annis þt þe lyning was worne out of price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, February 5th, delivered to the queen’s tailor 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the hem of an old gown of Lady Anne’s, that the lining was worn out of, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item vj quarteris bukcrame to mend þis gowne and certane vþer clething of hirris witht price of þe elne iiij s Summa—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of buckram to mend this gown, and certain other clothing of hers with, price of each ell 4s; total: 6s.

Item ane quarter gray welwett to mend þe bordouris of ane gowne of gray dammes of hyrris price þairof—xvij s vj d

Item, ¼ ell of gray velvet to mend the borders of a gown of gray damask of hers, price thereof 17s 6d.

Item for gray silk to translait þe samyn gowne—v s

Item, for gray silk to alter [enlarge?] the same gown, 5s.

Item deliuerit to effame hir kepar thre elnis cambreche claitht tobe hir collaris price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, delivered to Euphemie, her keeper, 3 ells of cambric cloth to be collars for her, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

Item ane grete hank of gold to sew þe samyn witht price þairof—xxx s [692]

Item, a large hank of gold to sew the same with, price thereof 30s.

Item to þe said gilbert to by certane small necessaris witht to his maistres—iiij li [695]

Item, to the said Gilbert [Ruthven] to buy certain small necessities with for his mistress, £4.

Item xijo februarii deliuerit to effame kepare to my lady anne tobe hir sarkis xvj elnis lynning claitht price of þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—xxxvij s iiij d [697]

Item, February 12th, delivered to Euphemie, keeper of my Lady Anne, to be smocks for her, 16 ells linen cloth, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 37s 4d.

Item be my lord gouernouris command to ane lavinder of lady annis—xl s [698]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to a laundress of Lady Anne’s, 40s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 46 9

April 1552 Item xo aprilis deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour tobe ane gowne to lady anne v elnis fyne quhyte damnes price of þe elne xlij s Summa—x li x s

Item, April 10th, delivered to the queen’s tailor, to be a gown for Lady Anne, 5 ells of fine white damask, price of each ell 42s; total: £10 10s.

Item tua elnis quhite welwett to bordour þis gowne and tobe hir ane hude and slevis price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—vij li x s

Item, 2 ells of white velvet to border this gown, and to be a hood and sleeves for her, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £7 10s.

Item ane elne of quhite taffiteis of þe cord to lyne þe hude and slevis price þairof— xviij s

Item, an ell of white taffeta of the cord to line the hood and sleeves, price thereof 18s.

Item ane elne of quhite bukcrame to stuff þe hude and slevis price þairof—iij s

Item, an ell of white buckram to stuff the hood and sleeves, price thereof 3s.

Item ane vnce and ane half quhite sewing silk to sew þe samyn price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 1½ ounces of white sewing silk, to sew the same, price of the ounce 9s; total: 13s 6d.

Item ane elne of small canves to þe bodyis of þe gowne price þairof—iij s vj d

Item, an ell of fine canvas for the bodies of the gown, price thereof 3s 6d.

Item deliuerit to þe said tailȝeoure half ane elne crammasy welwett to be hir ane hude price þairof—iiij li

Item, delivered to the said tailor, ½ ell of crimson velvet, to be a hood for her, price thereof £4.

Item ane elne of quhit clayt to lyne þe taile of þe gowne—viij s

Item, an ell of white cloth to line the hem of the gown, 8s.

Item ane elne of reid taffiteis of þe cord to lyne þis hude and ane pair of slevis of crammisye welwett price þairof—xviij s

Item, an ell of red taffeta of the cord to line this hood and a pair of sleeves of crimson velvet, price thereof 18s.

Item ane elne and ane naile of reid stemmyng of myllane tobe hir ane vilycoit price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxxviij s iij d

Item, 11⁄16 ells of red stemming of Milan to be a petticoat for her, price of each ell 36s; total: 38s 3d.

Item vj elnis bukcrame tobe wardegardis to hir and to hir kepar effame price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to be safeguards for her and for her keeper Euphemie, price of each ell 4s; total: 24s.

Item tway elnis gray to þir wardegardis price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray for their safeguards price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

470

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item to þe quenis tailȝeour for making of þe claithis forsadis and cutting out of þe hude and slevis and for translating of certane vþer clething of hirris conforme to his compt byll—lv s

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of the aforesaid clothes and pinking [or slashing] of the hood and sleeves, and for altering of certain other clothing of hers, conforming to his bill of account, 55s.

Item vj quarteris crisp to draw þe slevis of hir gowne price of þe elne xiiij s Summa— xxj s [703]

Item, 1½ ells of crespe to draw the sleeves of her gown, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item deliuerit to gilbert ruthven seruitour to my lady anne tway elnis gall claitht tobe collaris to hir price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, delivered to Gilbert Ruthven, servitor to my Lady Anne, 2 ells of gall cloth to be collars for her, price of each ell 18s; total: 36s.

Item ane grete hank of gold to sew þe samin with price þairof—xxviij s

Item, a large hank of gold to sew the same with, price thereof 28s.

Item ane vnce and ane half crammasye silk price of þe vnce xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, an ounce and a half of crimson silk, price of each ounce 16s; total: 24s.

Item thre vnce black satin silk price of þe vnce xij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 3 ounces of black satin silk, price of each ounce 12s; total: 36s.

Item ane hank of linkcome twyne price þairof—v s

Item, a hank of Lincoln twine, price thereof 5s.

Item thre crapis to hir hudis price of þe piece xxij s Summa—iij li vj s

Item, three crepes for her hoods, price of each piece 22s; total: £3 6s.

Item half ane elne blak welwett to be hir schone price þairof—xxxv s [704]

Item, ½ ell of black velvet to be shoes for her, price thereof 35s.

Item xo aprilis ane boy send to striueling to þe quenis tailȝeour to se how mekkle quhite dammes wald be ane gowne to lady anne and his wage—viij s [715]

Item, April 10th, a boy sent to Stirling to the queen’s tailor to see how much white damask would be [needed for] a gown for Lady Anne, and his wage, 8s.

July 1552 Item xxvo Julij deliuerit to gilbert ruthvene seruitour to my lady anne toby certane necessaris to his maistres wt—vj li [737]

Item, July 25th, delivered to Gilbert Ruthven, servant to my Lady Anne, to buy certain necessities for his mistress with, £6.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 47 1

October 1552 Item xxo octobris ix quarteris reid stemmyng of millane deliuerit to þe quenis tailȝeour tobe ane vilecoit and hois to lady anne price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li xij d

Item, October 20th, 2¼ ells of red stemming of Milan delivered to the queen’s tailor to be a petticoat and hose for Lady Anne, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 0s 12d.

Item tway elnis blak taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe taile of ane govne of fygurate welwet þat þe lyning was worn out of price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of black taffeta of four threads to line the hem of a gown of figured velvet that the lining was worn out of, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item v quarteris of þe samyn taffiteis to put about hir heid price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xx s

Item, 1¼ ells of the same taffeta to put about her head, price of each ell 16s; total: 20s.

Item thre elnis layne to be hir slevis and vþiris small necessaris price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xlij s

Item, 3 ells of lawn to be sleeves and other small necessities for her, price of each ell 14s; total: 42s.

Item foure elnis small holand claytht deliuerit to effame hir kepar to be hir collaris price of þe elne xv s Summa—iij li

Item, 4 ells of fine Holland cloth, delivered to Euphemie, her keeper, to be collars for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £3.

Item for ane vilecoit of plading to hir—xiiij s [752]

Item, for a petticoat of plaiding for her, 14s.

November 1552

 81

Item xxiiijo octobris deliuerit to effame hammyltoune kepar to lady anne ane greit hank and ane quarter of ane hank of sewin gold price of þe grete hank xxviij s and of þe quarter hank vij s Summa—xxxv s

Item, November 24th,81 delivered to Euphemie Hamilton, keeper to Lady Anne, a large hank and a quarter of a hank of sewing gold, price of the large hank 28s and of the quarter hank 7s; total: 35s.

Item ane grete hank of sewing siluer price þairof—xxviij s

Item, a large hank of sewing silver, price thereof 28s.

Item thre elnis of crispe price of þe elne vij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3 ells of crespe, price of each ell 7s; total: 21s.

Though the entry does say October, it is in the section for November.

472

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tway paperis of prenys price þairof— iiij s

Item, two papers of pins, price thereof 4s.

Item spunge price þairof—iiij s

Item, a sponge, price thereof 4s.

Item viij paris of gluvis price þairof—xij s [758]

Item, 8 pairs of gloves, price thereof 12s.

December 1552 Item to þe ladye flemynges tailȝeoure for making of ane goun of welwot to Ladye An & furnesing of silk glaspis & oþer small necessaris, And for making of þir clathis foresaid to Effame hammiltoun hir kepar conforme to his compte bill—lvj s [777]

Item, to the Lady Fleming’s tailor for making of a gown of velvet for Lady Anne and furnishing of silk, clasps, and other small necessities, and for making of these aforesaid clothes for Euphemie Hamilton, her keeper, conforming to his account bill, 56s.

Item xvijo decembris vij elnis fyne blak welwote deliuerit to þe Quenis tailȝeoure to be ane goun & certane oþir necessaris to my Lorde gouernouris douchter lady An þe elne iiij li Summa—xxviij li

Item, December 17th, 7 ells of fine black velvet delivered to the Queen’s tailor to be a gown and certain other necessities for my Lord Governor’s daughter Lady Anne, each ell £4; total: £28.

Item vj quarteris gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne v s Summa—vij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 5s; total: 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis small canves to þe bodyis of þis goun and to ane oþir goun to effame hir kepar þe elne iij s Summa—vj s

Item, 2 ells of fine canvas for the bodies of this gown and for another gown for Euphemie, her keeper, each ell 3s; total: 6s.

Item iij elnis bukrum to be hir ane wardegard þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of buckram to be a safeguard for her, each ell 4s; total 12s.

Item tua elnis taffate of foure thredis to lyne þe talis of þis goun þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s [771]

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the hem of this gown, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

February 1552/53 Item xjo ferii deliuerrit to my ladye flemynges tailȝeoure tua elnis thre quarteris stemmyng of myllane to be ane goun to lady An þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, February 11th, delivered to my Lady Fleming’s tailor, 2¾ ells of stemming of Milan to be a gown for Lady Anne, each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item half ane elne fyne blak welwote to walt þe samyn—xl s

Item, ½ ell of fine black velvet to trim the same, 40s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 473

 82

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Item ane elne small canves to lyne þe bodyis of þis goun—iij s

Item, an ell of fine canvas to line the bodies of this gown, 3s.

Item ane elne crammosye sating to be hir hude and slewis price—iij li xv s

Item, an ell of crimson satin to be a hood and sleeves for her, price £3 15s.

Item ane elne quhite sating ane elne blak sating and ane elne ȝallo sating to be hir thre hudis & thre pair of slewis þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, an ell of white satin, an ell of black satin, and an ell of yellow satin, to be three hoods and three pairs of sleeves for her, each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item half ane elne reid taffateis half ane elne blak taffaties half ane elne quhite taffateis & half ane elne ȝallo taffateis to lyne þir foure hudis of silk price of ilk half elne viij s Summa—xxxij s

Item, ½ ell of red taffeta, ½ ell of black taffeta, ½ ell of white taffeta and ½ ell of yellow taffeta to line these four hoods of silk, price of each half ell 8s; total: 32s.

Item tua elnis tok de argent to lyne þir hudis þe elne xviij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 2 ells of toque d’argent82 to line these hoods, each ell 18s; total: 36s.

Item to þe quennis tailȝeour for making of þis goun hudis & slewis and for ratting of þe hudis and slewis conforme to his compte billis—iiij li ij s vj d [786]

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of this gown, hoods, and sleeves, and for pinking of the hoods and sleeves conforming to his account bills, £4 2s 6d.

Item xv to februarii deliuerrit to Effame hammiltoun to be sarkis and schetis to ladye An tua dosoun & ane half small lyning claith þe dosoun xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s [788]

Item, February 15th, delivered to Euphemie Hamilton to be smocks and sheets for Lady Anne, 30 ells of fine linen cloth, each dozen 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane boy þt bure certane clething of ladye Annis to striuiling—vj s

Item, a boy that bore certain clothing of Lady Anne’s to Stirling, 6s.

Item an elne of canves to turs þe said clething in—ij s iiij d [791]

Item, an ell of canvas to carry the said clothing in, 2s 4d.

Cotgrave defines toque d’argent as “Plated cloth of … silver; a kind of tinsell, or stuffe that is striped with … silver”; Cotgrave, Dictionarie, s.v. “toque d’or ou d’argent.” This seems an unlikely fabric for a lining, and the price is low for a cloth containing silver.

474

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

June 1553 Item xiiijto Junii v elnis gray dalmes to be ane goun to ladye An þe elne xl s Summa— x li

Item, June 14th, 5 ells of gray damask to be a gown for Lady Anne, each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item quartar & half quartar gray welwote to wat þe same þe elne iiij li Summa—xxx s

Item, ⅜ ell of gray velvet to trim the same, each ell £4; total: 30s.

Item half ane elne bukrum to boster þe slewis of It—ij s

Item, ½ ell of buckram to bolster the sleeves of it, 2s.

Item half ane elne canves to be fals bodyis to þe goun—xvj d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to be false bodies to the gown, 16d.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þis goun þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line this gown, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item tua elnis reid stemmyng of myllane to be hir vylecott and hois þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 2 ells of red stemming of Milan to be petticoat and hose for her, each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item to þe quennis tailȝeour for making of thir clathis—xx s

Item, to the queen’s tailor for making of these clothes, 20s.

Item for ane pair of gluffis to lady An—iij s

Item, for a pair of gloves for Lady Anne, 3s.

Item half ane elne of welwote to be hir schone þe elne iiij li Summa—xl s

Item, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for her, each ell £4; total: 40s.

Item to paule francheman for making of þe same—vj s

Item, to Paul Frenchman for making of the same, 6s.

Item to his seruand In drinksyluer—xij d

Item, to his servant in drinksilver, 12d.

Item vj quartaris taffateis to be hir ane couer to hir heid þe elne xvj s Summa— xxiiij s [817]

Item, 1½ ells of taffeta to be a cover for her head, each ell 16s; total: 24s.

September 1553 Item viijo Sepbris half ane elne welwote to be schone to lady An price—xxxvj s

Item, September 8th, ½ ell of velvet to be shoes for Lady Anne, price 36s.

Item for making of þame—vj s

Item, for making of them, 6s.

Item vj elnis bukrame to be tua wardegardes ane to hir and ane other to Effame hir kepar, þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to be two safeguards, one for her and another for Euphemie, her keeper, each ell 4s; total: 24s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 475

Item tua elnis gray to stuf þe wardegardes þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to stuff the safeguards, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Item ane burdeous skyn to þe said wardegardes—vj s viij d

Item, a Bordeaux skin for the said safeguards, 6s 8d.

Item for making of þe tua wardegardes—xx s

Item, for making of the two safeguards, 20s.

Item tua paperis of prenis to lady An—v s

Item, two papers of pins for Lady Anne, 5s.

Item ane spunge price—iiij s vj d [837]

Item, a sponge, price 4s 6d.

Item xxo Sepbris foure elnis & ane half armosene taffateis deliuerit to þe quennis tailȝeour to be ane nyt goun to Lady An þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vij li xiij s

Item, September 20th, 4½ ells of armosene taffeta, delivered to the queen’s tailor to be a night gown for Lady Anne, each ell 34s; total: £7 13s.

Item thre quartaris bukrum to lyne þe bordoures of þe same price—iij s

Item, ¾ ell of buckram to line the borders of the same, price 3s.

Item quartar and half quartar gray welwote to wat þe same price—xxx s

Item, ⅜ ell of gray velvet to trim the same, price 30s.

Item for making of þe same—x s

Item, for making of the same, 10s.

Item to Jhone craig furrour for furring of þe same wt cwnyngis In þe fore quartaris & blak lambe skynnes in þe bak quartaris—l s

Item to John Craig, furrier, for furring of the same with rabbit in the fore quarters and black lamb skins in the back quarters, 50s.

Item ane elne blak sating to be hir slevis gorgettis and oþer necessaris—xl s

Item, an ell of black satin to be sleeves, gorgets, and other necessities for her, 40s.

Item tua elnis reid taffateis to lyne the taill of ane goun of Lady Annis of crammosye welwote þt þe lyning wes worne out of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of red taffeta to line the hem of a gown of Lady Anne’s of crimson velvet that the lining was worn out of, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item tua elnis blak taffateis of foure thredis to lyne þe taill of ane other goun of blak welwote of hirres þe elne xvj s Summa— xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of black taffeta of four threads to line the hem of another gown of black velvet of hers, each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item v quartaris and ane half gray armosene taffateis to lyne þe taille of ane ald goun of hirres of gray welwote þt þe lyning wes worne oute of the elne xxxiiij s Summa— xlvj s ix d

Item, 1⅜ ells of gray armosene taffeta to line the hem of an old gown of hers of gray velvet that the lining was worn out of, each ell 34s; total: 46s 9d.

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Item foure elnis small hollande clayth to be hir collares and slewis þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—liij s iiij d

Item, 4 ells of fine Holland cloth to be collars and sleeves for her, each ell 13s 4d; total: 53s 4d.

Item vj elnis bartane claith to be naipkynnis and seruiettis to hir chalmer þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of Bretagne cloth to be handkerchiefs and napkins for her chamber, each ell 4s; total: 24s.

Item half ane elne blak welwote to bordour ane waskyne of quhite dalmes to hir of þe dalmes furnist of before þe elne iiij li Summa—xl s

Item, ½ ell of black velvet to border a vasquine of white damask for her of the damask furnished before, each ell £4; total: 40s.

Item half ane vnce steking silk to steik þe bordoures price—iiij s [842]

Item, ½ ounce of sewing silk to sew the borders, price 4s.

Anne Hamilton, the Regent’s Youngest Daughter: Wardrobe Summaries Two summaries are provided. The first is a chronological summary, which lists all items individually in the order they appear in the Accounts. Each item is followed by any description provided in the Accounts in parentheses and, in square brackets, the record number in which it appears. The second summary is divided by type of item. Within each category, any specialty items (such as those designated for riding or mourning) appear first, followed by the remaining items divided by the main fabric from which they were made.

Chronological Summary May 1549 hood (crimson velvet) [472] necessities (Holland cloth) [472] gown (yellow armosene taffeta trimmed with fine black velvet) [493] hood (fine black velvet) [493] partlet (fine black velvet) [493] February 1549/50 gown (gray damask, the bodies lined with canvas, altered [enlarged?] with gray silk and the borders mended with gray velvet in February 1551/52) [528, 692] May 1550 2 hoods (with buckram)?83 [587] November 1550 crepe [614] necklaces, bracelets, and other items [614]  83

These were probably, though not certainly, for Anne.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 477

gown (tawny taffeta, with borders, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, fastened with hooks and eyes) [618] hood (crimson velvet, lined with white satin) [618] October 1551 gown (Paris black, bordered with velvet, lined with gray, with canvas [for the bodies?]) [652] hood (velvet, lined with buckram) [652] gown (gray damask, bordered with gray velvet, lined with gray, with canvas [for the bodies?]) [652] November 1551 partlet (black velvet, lined with taffeta) [659] crepe for her hood [659] December 1551 (Anne becomes a lady-in-waiting to the dowager Queen Marie de Guise) gown (gray velvet, lined with gray taffeta and gray, bolstered with buckram, the bodies lined with canvas, the hem re-lined with gray armosene taffeta in September 1553) [668, 842] gown (figured velvet, lined with black taffeta of four threads and gray, bolstered with buckram, the bodies lined with canvas, the hem re-lined with black taffeta of four threads in October 1552) [668, 752] 4 hoods (crimson satin, white satin, black satin, yellow satin, all lined with taffeta of four threads and buckram, with wire covered in ribbon silk) [668] 4 pairs of sleeves (crimson satin, white satin, black satin, yellow satin, all lined with taffeta of four threads) [668] safeguard (buckram) [668] petticoat (red broadcloth) [668] gown with a pair of matching sleeves (crimson velvet with passementerie of gold, lined with red taffeta of four threads and gray, the foreskirt lined with demigrain, the bodies with canvas, the sleeves lined with buckram, the hem re-lined with red taffeta in September 1553) [668, 842] hood (crimson velvet with passementerie of gold, lined with buckram) [668] 4 ells narrow passementerie [668] hose (red broadcloth) [668] tippet (taffeta) [668] smocks and handkerchiefs (Bretagne cloth) [668] collars and other necessities (fine Holland cloth) [668] pair of knives [668] 3 ounces Bruges thread [671] January 1551/52 night gown (black damask trimmed with black velvet, the borders lined with buckram, the gown and sleeves furred with rabbit, the back with black lamb) [675] cloak (armosene taffeta trimmed with gray velvet, the borders lined with buckram, furred) [675]

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cornets (black velvet, lined with black satin) [675] mufflers (black velvet lined with black satin) [675] 3 crepes for hoods [675] two buists for her breast [675] shoes (black velvet) [675] 2 collars [676] hat (velvet) [676] paper with pins [676] 2 ells belting silk [676] February 1551/52 collars (cambric sewn with gold) [692] smocks (linen) [697] April 1552 gown (fine white damask, bordered with white velvet, the bodies lined with canvas, the hem with white cloth) [703] sleeves (white velvet, lined with white taffeta of the cord, stuffed with buckram, drawn out with crespe) [703] hood (white velvet, lined with white taffeta of the cord, stuffed with buckram) [703] hood (crimson velvet, lined with red taffeta of the cord) [703] sleeves (crimson velvet, lined with red taffeta of the cord) [703] petticoat (red stemming of Milan) [703] safeguard (buckram with gray) [703] collars (gall cloth sewn with gold) [704] 1½ ounces crimson silk thread [704] 3 ounces black satin silk thread [704] hank of Lincoln twine [704] 3 crepes for her hoods [704] shoes (black velvet) [704] October 1552 petticoat (red stemming of Milan) [752] hose (red stemming of Milan) [752] 1¼ ells of black taffeta of four threads to put about her head [752] sleeves (lawn) [752] other small necessities (lawn) [752] collars (find Holland cloth) [752] petticoat (plaiding) [752] November 1552 large hank and quarter hank of sewing gold [758] large hank of sewing silver [758] 3 ells crespe [758]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 479

2 papers of pins [758] 8 pairs of gloves [758] December 1552 gown (fine black velvet, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas, the hems with taffeta of four threads) [771] safeguard (buckram) [771] February 1552/53 gown (stemming of Milan, trimmed with black velvet, lined with gray, the bodies lined with canvas) [786] 4 hoods (crimson satin, lined with red taffeta and toque d’argent, white satin lined with white taffeta and toque d’argent, black satin lined with black taffeta, and toque d’argent, yellow satin lined with yellow taffeta and toque d’argent, all pinked or slashed) [786] 4 pairs of sleeves (crimson satin, white satin, black satin, yellow satin, all pinked or slashed) [786] smocks (fine linen) [788] June 1553 gown (gray damask trimmed with gray velvet, lined with gray, the sleeves bolstered with buckram, with canvas false bodies) [817] petticoat (red stemming of Milan) [817] hose (red stemming of Milan) [817] pair of gloves [817] shoes (velvet) [817] 1½ ells of taffeta to be a cover for her head [817] September 1553 shoes (velvet) [837] safeguard (buckram stuffed with gray, with Bordeaux leather) [837] 2 papers of pins [837] night gown (armosene taffeta, trimmed with gray velvet, the borders lined with buckram, furred with rabbit in the forequarters and black lamb in the back quarters) [842] sleeves (black satin) [842] gorgets (black satin) [842] other necessities (black satin) [842] collars (fine Holland cloth) [842] sleeves (fine Holland cloth) [842] handkerchiefs (Bretagne cloth) [842] vasquine (white damask bordered with black velvet) [842]

Summary by Category Gowns taffeta gowns [493, 618]

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damask gowns [528/692, 652, 703, 817] velvet gowns [668/752, 668/842, 771] other gowns [652, 786] Night Gowns [675, 842] Safeguards [668, 703, 771, 837] Vasquine [842] Petticoats stemming petticoats [703, 752, 817] other petticoats [668, 752] Cloak [675] Sleeves satin sleeves [668, 786, 842] velvet sleeves [703] other sleeves [752, 842] Partlets [493, 659] Gorgets [842] Mufflers [675] Collars Holland cloth collars [668, 752, 842] other collars [676, 692, 704] Smocks [668, 697, 788] Hat [676]



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 81

Hoods and Hood Parts velvet hoods [472, 493, 618, 652, 668, 703] satin hoods [668, 786] other hoods [587]84 crepes [614, 659, 675, 704] cornets [675] Other Headwear taffeta to cover her head [752] [817] Hose [668, 752, 817] Shoes [675, 704, 817, 837] Tippet [668] Gloves [758, 817] Belts [676] Fabric and Notions Holland cloth [472, 668] other fabrics [752, 758, 842] trim [668] thread and twine [671, 704, 758] pins [676, 758, 837] Miscellaneous necklaces, bracelets, and other items [614] pair of knives [668] handkerchiefs [668, 842] buists for her breast [675]

Unknown In several cases, bills did not give the identity of the recipient or included work for all of the children. These grants may well include items for the boys.  84

These were probably, though not certainly, for Anne.

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January 1547/48 Item for carage of my lorde gouernoures bairnis clathis furth of Edinburt to þe Blaknes and send wt hecht pursevante—x s [349]

Item, for carriage of my lorde governor’s children’s clothes forth from Edinburgh to the Blackness [Castle], and sent with Hecht, pursuivant, 10s.

April 1548 Item to George ferre furrour to my lorde gouernoures grace for his feyis lauboures & furnesing of ane part of furring to my lord gouernour & his grace barnis clathis— xxviij li viij s [375]

Item, to George Ferre, furrier to my lord governor’s grace, for his fees, labors, and furnishing of some85 furring for my lord governor and his grace’s children’s clothes, £28 8s.

May 1548 Item to Archiebald Dewar tailȝeour þt restit awyn him for making of certane clathis to my lorde gouernoures bairnis—v li [381]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, tailor, that was still owed him for making of certain clothes for my lord governor’s children, £5.

June 1549 Item to myrreleis cordinar to ane compte of his feyes butis schone and other necessares furnist to my lord gouernoures grace and his bairnis sen oure last compte maid at Sanctandros þe last of September In anno etc xlvjto to þis present moneth of Junii as his compte heir present to schew beris—lxx li xv s [481]

Item, to Myrreleis, cordwainer, for an account of his fees, boots, shoes, and other necessities furnished to my lord governor’s grace and his children since our last accounting made at St. Andrews, the last of September in the year etc., [15]46 to this present month of June, as his account here present to show bears, £70 15s.

May 1550 Item xxviijo maii be my lordes commande In drinksyluer to Archibald dewarris seruandis for making of his graces bairnis clathis—xxiij s [586]

 85

Item, May 28th, by my lord’s command in drinksilver to Archibald Dewar’s servants for making of his grace’s children’s clothes, 23s.

While “ane part of furring” would normally be translated “one part of a furring,” that implies part of the fur for a single garment. Since the clerk specified that the fur was applied to multiple items for the Regent and his children, “ane part of furring” probably meant that some of the furring Ferre supplied was billed earlier and some was included with this line item.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 83

February 1550/51 Item be his grace speciale command twa hors hirit to george smyth and Laurence symsoun tailȝeouris to Ride furth of Edinburght to Linlithqw to mak clathis to his grace barnis—xx s

Item, by his grace’s special command, two horses rented for George Smith and Lawrence Simpson, tailors, to ride forth from Edinburgh to Linlithgow to make clothes for his grace’s children, 20s.

Item ane fallow hirit to turs certane clathis wt þame—iij s [642]

Item, a fellow hired to carry certain clothes with them, 3s.

October 1551 Item penultimo octobris ane dosane paris of gloves send to lynlithqw to my lord gouernouris barnis witht Schir Johnne polwart price of þe samin—xviij s

Item, the second to last day of October, 12 pairs of gloves sent to Linlithgow to my lord governor’s children with Sir John Polwarth, price of the same, 18s.

Item in drynk siluer for þe samyn—xviij d [653]

Item, in drinksilver for the same, 18d.

January 1551/52 Item to homeir leis for buttis and schone furnist to my lord gouernour, and schone and pantonis to his graces lady and barnis fra þe xxviij day of september last bipast to þis day conforme to þe said homeris byll of compt heir present to schaw—v li [677]

Item, to Homer Leis for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor, and shoes and slippers [or overshoes] for his grace’s lady and children, from the 28th day of September last past to this day conforming to the said Homer’s bill of account, here present to show, £5.

The crepes below were probably for the ladies of the Regent’s immediate family. September 1549 Item for foure craipis of hudis bocht and deliuert to my lord gouernoures self quhilk his grace send to hammyltoun—iiij li x s [497]

Item, for four crepes of hoods bought and delivered to my lord governor’s self, which his grace sent to Hamilton, £4 10s.

NIE CE S The Regent had a number of siblings, many of whom had large families. In particular, he seems to have felt some responsibility toward the children of his half-brother Sir James Hamilton of Finnart, who was executed (probably wrongfully) for treason before the regency

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began.86 Sir James had three legitimate children and ten illegitimate ones by various different women.87 A number of these children received clothing listed in the Accounts. Several of them had the same name, which sometimes makes it difficult to tell exactly who they were. They are listed alphabetically by first name.

Agnes Hamilton These items were probably for the legitimate daughter of the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s half-brother) and Margaret Livingston of East Wemyss (see above). Agnes was the second wife of James Somerville,88 and Paul’s Scots Peerage gives the date of marriage between Agnes and James as 1536.89 One of the Regent’s half-sisters named Jean was James’ first wife, and Hamilton’s History claims that she died in 1557/58.90 April 1545 Item þe xx day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command deliuerit to þe maister of somervellis wyf xij elnis worsat to be hir ane goun and kirtill price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—viij li

Item, the 20th day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to the Master of Somerville’s wife 12 ells of worsted to be a gown and kirtle for her, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: £8.

Item ane elne of welwot to hir price—iiij li [133]

Item, an ell of velvet for her, price £4.

November 1546 Item to þe maistres of Somervell be my lorde gouernoures precept to by hir ane hude—vj li xijs [237]

Item, to the Mistress of Somerville by my lord governor’s precept to buy her a hood, £6 12s.

Agnes Hamilton If the marriage date of 1536 for the legitimate daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (above) is correct, the Agnes below, because she’s referred to as Agnes Hamilton rather than by a married name or title, was probably a different person. Most likely she was an

 86

Paul, Peerage, 4:361. Hamilton, History, 269–73.  88 At the time of the entries below, James’s father Hugh was still alive and held the title of Lord Somerville, so James, as the heir, was known as the Master of Somerville.  89 Paul, Peerage, 4:361.  90 Hamilton, History, 14. These dates would make sense if James and Jean were divorced prior to 1536. If the Peerage is incorrect about the year of Agnes and James’s marriage, however, the entries could be for Jean.  87



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 8 5

illegitimate daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart and Elizabeth Elphinston and a half-sister to the Agnes above.91 February 1543/44 Item þe penult day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Agnes hammiltoun ane of þe douchterris of vmqle ser James hammiltoun thre elnis ane half paris blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—iiij li xviij s

Item, the second to last day of February by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Agnes Hamilton, one of the daughters of the late Sir James Hamilton, 3½ ells of Paris black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 28s; total: £4 18s.

Item ix elnis and ane half variant chamlot to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne x s Summa—iiij li xv s

Item, 9½ ells of variegated camlet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 10s; total: £4 15s.

Item vj quarteris blak welwot to narve þe saiddis goun and kirtill price of þe elne iij li xvj s Summa—iiij li xviij s [74]

Item, 1½ ells of black velvet to trim the said gown and kirtle, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £4 18s.92

Bessie Hamilton The Regent had at least three nieces named Elizabeth who were daughters of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s half-brother) by different women.93 Some can be certainly identified because there is a reference to their husband. In other cases, however, clothing for Elizabeth or Elspeth or Bessie might possibly have been for any of them, because those names were generally interchangeable at that time. Given how careful the clerks of the Accounts were about distinguishing between various people, however, it seems likely that Bessie, Elspeth, and Elizabeth were in fact specific names given for each of the three half-sisters as an identification aid. If this was so, Elizabeth was the first-born of that name (listed below), Elspeth the second-born (also listed below), and the single reference here to Bessie was for the daughter known in genealogical terms as Elizabeth (tertius), who married John Symontoun of Symontoun. This Bessie may or may not be the same person who served as a maiden of the chamber (lady-in-waiting) to the Regent’s wife.

 91

Hamilton, History, 272. The total should be £5 14s. It is likely that the clerk mistakenly copied the total from the line item for a gown above.  93 Hamilton, History, 272–73.  92

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May 1547 Item þe xxiij day of Maii be my lorde gouernourres precept & spetiall commande boucht fra James curll and gevin to Besse hammiltoun douchter to Schir James hammiltoun to be hir ane goun & ane kirtill ane steik Lylis worsate price—x li [307]

Item, the 23rd day of May, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought from James Curl and given to Bessie Hamilton, daughter to Sir James Hamilton, to be a gown and a kirtle for her, a roll94 of Lilles worsted, price £10.

Elspeth Hamilton This was the second-born of the three Elizabeths, listed in the family tree as Elizabeth (secundus), daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s half-brother). She married Robert Carmichael.95 Elspeth’s damask gown was of a higher grade than many of the gowns given to the Regent’s nieces, and even the black wool granted to her was more expensive than the usual Paris black. April 1552 Item vjto Aprilis be his grace speciale command deliuerit to elspet hammyltoune spous to robert carmychell foure elnis blak of þe seile of rowane to be hir ane gowne price of þe elne iij li Summa—xij li

Item, April 6th, by his grace’s special command, delivered to Elspeth Hamilton, spouse to Robert Carmichael, 4 ells of black of the seal of Rouen, to be a gown for her, price of each ell £3; total: £12.

Item ane elne of fyne welwett to bordour þe samyn price þairof—iij li xv s

Item, an ell of fine velvet to border the same, price thereof £3 15s.

[709] November 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris speciale comand deliuerit elspet hammyltoune his graces bruþir doichter to be hir ane gowne xij elnis dammes price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxiiij li  94

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to Elspeth Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s daughter to be a gown for her, 12 ells of damask, price of each ell 40s; total: £24.

“Stick” as a measure of cloth is defined in some pre-sixteenth-century sources as a Flemish ell, or 27 inches; Lexis of Cloth and Clothing Project (online database), http://lexisproject.arts.manchester.ac.uk, s.v. “stick,” and Mark Chambers, “How Long Is a Launce? Units of Measure for Cloth in Late Medieval Britain,” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 13 (2017), 45, 60. However, that is not sufficient fabric to make a gown and a kirtle. Scottish sources from the late fifteenth century reveal that Scottish sticks were of varying lengths, with a range of 7.5 ells to 32 ells and more per stick; DSL, s.v. “Stek(e.” Therefore, “steik” has been translated more generally as “roll.”  95 Hamilton, History, 273.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 87

Item v quarteris welwett to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne þe samyn price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item ane vnce of silk to styk on þe bordouris of þe samin price þairof—viij s

Item, an ounce of silk to sew on the borders of the same, price thereof 8s.

Item for making of þe samyn—xvj s [763]

Item, for making of the same, 16s.

Elizabeth Hamilton, Lady Calderwood This Elizabeth was the first-born of that name from the late Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (the Regent’s half-brother) and was the daughter of Elizabeth Murray. She married John Maxwell of Calderwood.96 It is possible that once Lady Calderwood was married, further clothing listed for “Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter to the late Sir James” might have been for one of her half-sisters [458, 605, 631, 775]. Elizabeth received more clothing than some of the other nieces, and hers included a range of qualities, from cheap camlet to the commonly given Paris black as well as silk damasks for gowns and satins for kirtles. For further analysis of her wedding clothes in comparison to those of others, see pp. 128–9. October 1544

 96

Item þe xiij day of october be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Elizabeth hammiltoun his gracis brother douchter v elnis and ane half paris blak, to be hir ane goun and clokis price of þe elne—xxxiiij s Summa—ix li vij s

Item, the 13th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Elizabeth Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s daughter, 5½ ells of Paris black, to be a gown and cloaks for her, price of each ell 34s; total: £9 7s.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis lylis worsat price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 6 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 14s; total: £4 4s.

Item tua elnis welwot to begary goun clokis and kirtill price of þe elne iiij li Summa— viij li [93]

Item, 2 ells of velvet to trim gown, cloaks, and kirtle, price of each ell £4 total: £8.

Ibid., 272.

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April 1545 Item þe xxvij day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Elizabeth hammiltoun ane of þe douchteris of vmqle sr James hammiltoun quham god assolȝe vj elnis chamlot to be hir ane kirtill pryce of þe elne thairof xiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the 27th day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Hamilton, one of the daughters of the late Sir James Hamilton, whom God absolve, 6 ells of camlet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell thereof 14s; total: £4 4s.

Item ane elne of welwot price þairof—iij li x s [137]

Item, an ell of velvet, price thereof £3 10s.

April 1546 Item be my lord gouernoris precept to þe parsoun of dysart for clays furnist be him at command of þe said precept to Elizabeth hammiltoun douchter to Schir James hammiltoun—xxix li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to the parson of Dysart for clothes furnished by him at command of the said precept to Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter to Sir James Hamilton, £29 10s.

Item to him for ane kirtill of chamlot furnist to þe said Elizabeth at command of ane other precept of my lord gouernoris—iiij li iiij s

Item, to him for a kirtle of camlet furnished to the said Elizabeth at the command of another precept of my lord governor’s, £4 4s.

Item for ane elne of welwot to þe said kirtill—iij li x s [200]

Item, for an ell of velvet for the said kirtle, £3 10s.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces brother douchter Elizabeth hammiltoun ladye calderwod aganis the tyme of hir mariage xij elnis pyrnit reid dalmes to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxij li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s brother’s daughter, Elizabeth Hamilton, Lady Calderwood, for the time of her marriage, 12 ells of figured red damask to be a gown for her, price of each ell 38s; total: £22 16s.

Item vij elnis sating boucht at /m/ Thomas marjoribankes to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiiij li

Item, 7 ells of satin bought at Master Thomas Marjoribank’s to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £14.

Item thre elnis and ane half welwote to be hir hude paitlat and bordoures to hir clething price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— xij li v s

Item, 3½ ells of velvet to be her hood, partlet, and borders for her clothing, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £12 5s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 4 8 9

Item foure elnis pareis blak to be hir ane cloke pryce of þe elne xliiij s Summa—viij li xvj s

Item, 4 ells of Paris black to be a cloak for her, price of each ell 44s; total: £8 16s.

Item for lyning to þir clathis—xx s [368]

Item, for lining for these clothes, 20s.

March 1548/49 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Elizabeth hammiltoun ane of þe douchteris of vmquhile Schir James hammiltoun xvij elnis champlat price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Hamilton, one of the daughters of the late Sir James Hamilton, 17 ells of camlet, price of each ell 16s; total: £14 8s.97

Item mair to hir thre elnis blak welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xij li

Item, also to her, 3 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £12.

Item mair to hir foure elnis fyne pareis blak price of þe elne xlv s Summa—ix li

Item, also to her, 4 ells of fine Paris black, price of each ell 45s; total: £9.

Item to hir to be gevyn for lyning and making of þir clathis—iiij li x s [458]

Item, to her to be given for lining and making of these clothes, £4 10s.

July 1550

 97

Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to be ane goun to Elizabeth hammiltoun his graces brother douchter ix elnis blak champlat price of þe elne xv s Summa—xj li v s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to be a gown for Elizabeth Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s daughter, 9 ells of black camlet, price of each ell 15s; total: £11 5s.98

Item be command of þis same precept to be hir ane other goun thre elnis and ane half pareis blak price of þe elne xliiij s Summa— vj li xij s

Item, by command of this same precept, to be another gown for her 3½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 44s; total: £6 12s.99

Item tua elnis blak welwote to begary þir tua gownnes þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to trim these two gowns, each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item to be hir ane hude and paitlat vj quartaris and ane half quartar and ane nale blak welwote þe elne iij li x s Summa—v li xiij s ix d [605]

Item, to be a hood and partlet for her 111⁄16 ells of black velvet, each ell £3 10s; total: £5 13s 9d.100

The total should be £13 12s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 18 instead of 17. This total is unusually far from correct. It should be £6 15s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 15 instead of 9 or if the price per ell were 25s instead of 15s.  99 The total should be £7 14s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 3 instead of 3½. 100 The total should be £5 18s 1½d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 1⅝ rather than 111⁄16 (in other words, if the phrase “and ane nale” were left out).  98

49 0

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Item be his graces precept to þe ladye calderwod tua elnis blak welwote þe elne iij li x s Summa vij li [606]

Item, by his grace’s precept for the Lady Calderwood, 2 ells of black velvet, each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

December 1550 Item xxiiijo Decembris be my lord governouris precept coft tobe ane govne to Elizabeth hammiltoun dochter to Schir James viij elnis blak dammes price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, December 24th, by my lord governor’s precept, bought to be a gown for Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter to Sir James, 8 ells of black damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £15 4s.

Item vj quarteris blak veluet to bordour þis govne price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 1½ ells of black velvet to border this gown, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £5 8s.

Item to be hir ane kirtill viij elnis sating price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 8 ells of satin, price of each ell 38s; total: £15 4s.

Item tobe hir ane pe iiij elnis franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, to be a cloak for her, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item to watt þis pe half ane elne and half ane quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xlv s

Item, to trim this cloak, ⅝ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 45s.

Item tobe hir ane hude and paitclaith vij quarteris and ane half blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vj li xv s

Item, to be a hood and partlet for her, 1⅞ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £6 15s.

Item thre elnis holand claith to hir price of þe elne xij s Summa—xxxvj s [631]

Item, 3 ells of Holland cloth for her, price of each ell 12s; total: 36s.

December 1552 Item iijo decembris be my lorde gouernouris precept and spetiall commande deliuerit to Elizabeth hammiltoun douchter to vmquhile Schir James hammiltoun fyve elnis franche blak to be hir ane goun þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, December 3rd, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter to the late Sir James Hamilton, 5 ells of French black to be a gown for her, each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item vj quarteris welwote to bordoure þe same þe elne iij li xij s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to border the same, each ell £3 12s; total: £5 8s.

Item iij elnis gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 3 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 13s 6d.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 49 1

Item tua elnis & ane half reid stemmyng to be hir ane vylecote þe elne xiiij s Summa— xxxv s

Item, 2½ ells of red stemming to be a petticoat for her, each ell 14s; total: 35s.

Item ane wardegard of gray fustiane to hir—liiij s

Item, a safeguard of gray fustian for her, 54s.

Item iij elnis hollande claith to be hir collarres þe elne xj s Summa—xxxiij s [775]

Item, 3 ells of Holland cloth to be collars for her, each ell 11s; total: 33s.

Grisel Hamilton The Regent had at least two nieces named Grisel (both daughters of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart), and the items in the first of the records below, from April 1547, could be for either of them. The legitimate daughter married Andrew Leslie, the Master of Rothes (later fifth Earl of Rothes). Their marriage contract was dated June 28, 1547.101 Grisel had one of the few blue garments in this portion of the Accounts and the only purple camlet gown. Interestingly, the last items she was given—after her marriage—were of much better quality than the first. April 1547 Item be my lorde gouernourres precept and spetiall commande to his graces brother douchter Gryssell hammiltoun nyne elnis purpure chamlot to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xviij s Summa—viij li ij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s brother’s daughter, Grisel Hamilton, 9 ells of purple camlet to be a gown for her, price of each ell 18s; total: £8 2s.

Item vij elnis tannye chamlot to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—v li v s

Item, 7 ells of tawny camlet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £5 5s.

Item tua elnis blak welwote to be hir ane hude price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to be a hood for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item ane elne of welwote to begary hir said goun and kirtill price of þe elne […]102 Summa—iij li x s [298]

Item, an ell of velvet to trim her said gown and kirtle, price of each ell…; total: £3 10s.

December 1547 Item for ane stande of clathis maid to Schir James Douchter at hir mariage w t þe maister of Rothes be his graces spetiall commande—xlvj li vij s vj d [344] 101

Item, for a set of clothes made for Sir James’ daughter for her marriage with the Master of Rothes, by his grace’s special command, £46 7s 6d.

Hamilton, History, 270. Perhaps the clerk realized too late that he needn’t specify the price of each ell since there was only one.

102

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July 1548 Item be my lorde gouernouris spetiall command coft to grissill hammiltoun spous to þe maister of rothes ix elnis thre quartares blak armosene taffateis to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxx s Summa—xiiij li xij s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, bought for Grisel Hamilton, spouse to the Master of Rothes, 9¾ ells of black armosene taffeta to be a gown for her, price of each ell 30s; total: £14 12s 6d.

Item viij elnis tannye taffate armosene to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, 8 ells of tawny armosene taffeta to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £14 8s.

Item viij elnis blew dalmes to be hir ane other kirtill price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, 8 ells of blue damask to be another kirtle for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £14 8s.

Item viij elnis reid sating to be hir ane other kirtill price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, 8 ells of red satin to be another kirtle for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £14 8s.

Item thre elnis blak welwote to begary þir clathis and to be hir hudes þe elne iij li xv s Summa—xj li v s

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to trim these clothes and to be hoods for her, each ell £3 15s; total: £11 5s.

Item vj quartaris blak sating to lyne þir hudes to grisill hammiltoun spous of þe maister of Rothes þe elne xxxvj s Summa— liiij s [391]

Item, 1½ ells of black satin to line these hoods for Grisel Hamilton, spouse to the Master of Rothes, each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Margaret Hamilton Margaret was the daughter of John Hamilton of Samuelston and Clydesdale, half-brother to the Regent. She married first James Johnstone of Johnstone and second David Douglas of Pittendrecht, who later became seventh Earl of Angus.103 Although she had a claim on him for support Margaret must not have been close to the Regent, as she is only provided with wedding clothes. If she is the unnamed niece in the second entry below, then wedding clothes were provided for both of her marriages. For analysis of her wedding clothes, see p. 00.

103

Hamilton, History, 764.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 493

March 1543/44 Item þe first day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command coft to […] hammiltoun his gracis brother douchter agane þe day of hir mariage with þe ȝung laird of Jhonnsoun to be hir ane goun viij elnis lylis worsat pryce of þe elne xv s Summa—vj li

Item, the first day of March, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought for [Margaret] Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s daughter, for the day of her marriage with the young lord of Johnstone, to be a gown for her, 8 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £6.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis violat chamlot price of þe elne xxij s Summa—vi li xij s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 6 ells of violet camlet, price of each ell 22s; total: £6 12s.

Item tua elnis fyne tannye welwot to begary þe said goun pryce of þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li

Item, 2 ells of fine tawny velvet to trim the same gown, price of each ell £4; total: £8.

Item thre quarteris purpour welwot to be hir slevis pryce of þe elne iiij li Summa—iij li

Item, ¾ ell of purple velvet to be sleeves for her, price of each ell £4; total: £3.

Item thre quarteris vterris fyne to be hir hois pryce thairof—xxv s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of utterfine to be hose for her, price thereof 25s 6d.

Item for ane elne of canves to pak þe saidis clathis in—ij s viij d [76]

Item, for an ell of canvas to pack the said clothes in, 2s 8d.

April 1552 Item xxvjo aprilis be my lord gouernouris speciale command deliuerit to […] hammyltoune his grace bruþir doichter at hir mariage xij elnis fyne tanny welwett tobe hir ane lang talit gowne price of þe elne iij li xvj s Summa—xlv li xij s

Item, April 26th, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to … Hamilton, his grace’s brother’s daughter on the occasion of her marriage, 12 ells of fine tawny velvet to be a gown with a train for her, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £45 12s.

Item v elnis of taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe taile of þis gowne price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li

Item, 5 ells of taffeta of four threads to line the hem of this gown, price of each ell 16s; total: £4.

Item to hir tway elnis fyne blak welwet to be hir hudis and partclatis price of þe elne iij li xvj s Summa—vij li xij s

Item, to her 2 ells of fine black velvet to be hoods and partlets for her, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £7 12s.

Item ane elne of blak satin to lyne þe hude and to be vþir necessaris price þairof—xl s

Item, an ell of black satin to line the hood, and to be other necessities, price thereof 40s.

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Item mair deliuerit to hir to be ane vþir gowne xij elnis of fyne gray dammes of venys price of þe elne xlv s Summa—xxvij li

Item, also delivered to her to be another gown, 12 ells of fine gray damask of Venice, price of each ell 45s; total: £27.

Item vj quarteris gray welwett to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—v li v s

Item, 1½ ells of gray velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £5 5s.

Item viij elnis purpour welwett tobe hir ane kyrtyll price of þe elne iiij li Summa—xxxij li

Item, 8 ells of purple velvet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell £4; total: £32.

Item viij elnis tanny satin to be hir ane vþir kyrtill price of þe elne xl s Summa—xvj li

Item, 8 ells of tawny satin to be another kirtle for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £16.

Item to Johnne andersoune tailȝeour for making of þir clathis and furnessing of þe samyn witht lyningis silk bukcrame canves claspis and vþiris necessaris conforme to his compt bill—ix li x s iiij d

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of these clothes, and furnishing of the same with linings, silk, buckram, canvas, clasps, and other necessities conforming to his account bill, £9 10s 4d.

Item for ane garnissing to hir hude weyand xiiij crownis and ane half crowne—xx li [712]

Item, for a garnishing for her hood, weighing 14½ crowns, £20.

Margaret? Cunningham Although the Accounts leave a blank space for the given name, this was most likely Margaret, the daughter of Alexander Cunningham, fourth Earl of Glencairn and one of the Regent’s half-sisters named Jean (see Jean/Janet Cunningham, Mistress of Kilmaurs, above). She received only two items, but they were of fine quality. August 1552 Item tertio augusti be my lord gouernouris speciale command to […] cunynghame doitter to þe erle of glencarne xj elnis tanny satin tobe hir ane gowne price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxij li

Item, August 3rd, by my lord governor’s special command, to [Margaret?] Cunningham, daughter to the Earl of Glencairn, 11 ells of tawny satin to be a gown for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £22.

Item vj elnis and ane half blew purpour welwett to be hir ane kyrtyll price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxij li xv s [739]

Item, 6½ ells of blue purple velvet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £22 15s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 49 5

OTHE R S Elizabeth Hamilton This was the daughter of the late Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse (or Stanehouse) and Grisel Sempill.104 Her half-brother Robert also received clothing (see p. 604). January 1548/49 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to Elizabeth hammiltoun douchter to vmquhile Schir James hammiltoun of stanehous to be hir ane goun aganis þe day of lady Barbarais mariage Aucht elnis quhite dalmes þe elne xlij s Summa—xvj li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter to the late Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse, to be a gown for her for the day of Lady Barbara’s marriage, 8 ells of white damask, each ell 42s; total: £16 16s.

Item ane elne quhyte welwote to begarye þis same goun price of þe elne—iiij li [432]

Item, an ell of white velvet to trim this same gown, price of each ell £4.

Elizabeth Ramsay, the Heir of Colluthie Elizabeth was heiress of Leuchers and Colluthie, and her father William Ramsay was killed at the battle of Pinkie Cleugh in 1547. In his stead Sir Robert Carnegie, fifth Lord of Kinnaird and a Privy Counciller who was also appointed to various posts and important ambassadorial tasks by the Regent, held the wardship and marriage of Elizabeth.105 She married his second son David Carnegie of Panbride, later seventh Lord of Kinnaird and Carcary, bringing her lands into the Kinnaird holdings.106 Although the ward of Sir Robert, it may be that she spent some time in the company of the Regent’s family. A few items of clothing were ordered for her, and one set is part of a series with other pieces for the Regent’s daughters. She has the distinction of receiving the only orange garment (an everyday gown trimmed with black velvet) in this portion of the Accounts. February 1549/50 Item be my lord Gouernoris spetiall command to be ane goun to þe air of colluthye foure elnis and ane quartar dalmes price of þe elne xxxviij s summa—viij li xviij d

104

Ibid., 833. Paul, Peerage, 8:53. 106 Ibid., 8:59. 105

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to be a gown for the heir of Colluthie, 4¼ ells of damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £8 0s 18d.

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Item to be hir ane vþer dalie goun foure elnis thre quartaris turky champlet orenge cullour þe elne xvj s summa—iij li xvj s

Item, to be another everyday gown for her, 4¾ ells of Turkey camlet, orange color, each ell 16s; total: £3 16s.

Item tua elnis ane quartar and ane nale fyne blak weluot till begary þir gownys my lord gouernouris dochteris goun and to be ane hude þe elne iiij li summa—viij li xij s vj d

Item, 25⁄16 ells of fine black velvet to trim these gowns, my lord governor’s daughters gown, and to be a hood, each ell £4; total: £8 12s 6d.107

Item nyne elnis gray to lyne thir tua gownis of þe air of collutheis price of þe elne v s summa—xlv s

Item, 9 ells of gray to line these two gowns of the heir of Cullothie’s, price of each ell 5s; total: 45s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodeis of þame—iiij s [530]

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of them, 4s.

May 1550 Item to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeoure for making of tua gownnes to þe airris of colluthye ane to my Ladye gouernour and ane to my lordis douchter—xlvj s [587]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of two gowns for the heiress of Colluthie, one to my lady governor, and one to my lord’s daughter, 46s.

December 1552 Item be his graces precept & spetiall commande deliuerit to robert hammiltoun of þe briggis foure elnis lylis worsat to be ane goun to þe air of colluchye þe elne xiiij s Summa—lvj s

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, delivered to Robert Hamilton of the Briggis, 4 ells of Lille worsted to be a gown for the heir of Colluthie, each ell 14s; total: 56s.

Item iij quarteris blak welwote to bordour þe same þe elne iij li xij s Summa—liiij s

Item, ¾ ell of black velvet to border the same, each ell £3 12s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne the same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s [776]

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Lady Huntley Lady Huntley only enters this portion of the Accounts in reference to the marriage of the Regent’s daughter Barbara to Lady Huntley’s son Lord Gordon. This is one of the few instances in this portion of the Accounts of display livery for a household other than the Regent’s. The Gordon heraldry as given in Sir David Lindsay’s Armorial (1542) was “Azure, 107

The total should be £9 5s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 497

three boars’ heads couped Or” [a blue field with three gold boars’ heads].108 One of Barbara’s lackeys received blue livery bordered with yellow in 1552 [746], so she evidently continued to employ it after her wedding. February 1548/49 Item gevin to my ladye huntlie to be disponit In lyfrayes at þe mariage xx elnis blew taffate of foure thredis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xvj li

Item, given to my Lady Huntley to be disposed in liveries at the marriage, 20 ells of blue taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 16s; total: £16.

Item xv elnis ȝallo taffate for bate price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xij li

Item, 15 ells of yellow taffeta for bate?,109 price of each ell 16s; total: £12.

Item mair x elnis and ane half ȝallo taffate of iiij threid price of þe elne xv s Summa—vij li xvij s vj d

Item, 10½ more ells of yellow taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 15s; total: £7 17s 6d.

Item mair vj quartaris reid taffate of þe corde—xxxiij s [440]

Item, 1½ more ells of red taffeta of the cord, 33s.

Isabel Hamilton, Daughter of the Late Patrick, Abbot of Ferne Patrick, Abbot of Ferne, was burnt at the stake for Protestantism in February 1527/28.110 He was the Regent’s cousin (son of his father’s half-brother Sir Patrick Hamilton of Kincavil),111 so Isabel could make a claim on the Regent both as a family member and as an orphan—one of several to whom he granted clothing. There are entries for March 1542/43 and May 1543 for an Isabel Hamilton which might have been for this Isabel, as they precede and follow the April 1543 grant so directly. The clothes granted, however, were much finer than those of April 1543, so those may have been for a different person.112

108

Sir David Lindsay’s Armorial, see Chapter 3, note 61. The Earl of Huntly (Lord Gordon’s father) would have used quartered heraldry including Gordon (given above), the Lordship of Badenoch (“Or, three lions’ heads erased Gules langued Azure”), Seton (“Or, three crescents within a double tressure flory counter-flory Gules”), and Fraser (“Azure, five six-foils in saltire Argent”). 109 One meaning for this word in sixteenth-century Scots is “A small amount given gratis to a buyer. To 110

bat or bait. to boot, extra”; OED, s.v. “bat, n.3.” This could possibly stretch to mean a favor or small gift given to guests.

John Knox, The Works of John Knox, ed. David Laing, 6 vols. (Edinburgh: Wodrow Society and J. Thin, 1846–95), 1:18. 111 Ibid., 1:500–1. 112 See p. 000.

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April 1543 Item þe x day of aprile deliuerit to be ane gowne to Issobell hammiltoune dochter to vmqll patrik abbot of ferne four elnis frenche blak, price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vj li xvj s

Item, the 10th day of April, delivered to be a gown for Isabel Hamilton, daughter to the late Patrick, abbot of Ferne, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 34s; total: £6 16s.

Item deliuerit to be hir ain kirtill thre elnis frenche browne, price of þe elne xxx s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 3 ells of French brown, price of each ell 30s; total: £4 10s.

Item deliuerit to hir to walt þe samin and to be hir pertlettis ane elne blak veluet, price þairof—lvj s [38]

Item, delivered to her to trim the same, and to be partlets for her, an ell of black velvet, price thereof 56s.

Isobel Hamilton, Young Mistress of Sempill Although at first glance these entries might seem to be for Isabel, the daughter of William Hamilton of Sanquhar and wife to Robert Sempill, third Lord Sempill,113 upon further inspection that seems unlikely. Prior to this entry, there are several for that Isabel’s daughterin-law Elizabeth Hamilton, Mistress of Sempill (see pp. 406–9, above), so it is improbable that her mother-in-law would later be referred to as the “young mistress.” Robert Sempill did have a daughter named Isobel who was married to James Hamilton of Kincavill, and it is possible that she might bear the title “young mistress of Sempill” after her marriage.114 James Hamilton of Kincavill was a cousin of the Regent, and the family connection makes this identification more likely.115 February 1550/51

113

Item xiiijo februarii be my lord governouris precept and spetiale command coft to be ane govne to Isobell hammiltoun ȝong maistres of sympill foure elnis fyne pareis blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—ix li iiij s

Item, February 14th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought to be a gown for Isobel Hamilton, young mistress of Sempill, 4 ells of fine Paris black, price of each ell 46s; total: £9 4s.

Item tobe hir ane kirtill v elnis and ane half lylis worsett price of þe elne xv s Summa— iiij li ij s vj d

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 5½ ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £4 2s 6d.

Paul, Peerage, 7:543. Ibid., 7:550. 115 G. Harvey Johnston, The Heraldry of the Hamiltons with Notes on All the Males of the Family, Descriptions of the Arms, Plates and Pedigrees (Edinburgh: W. and A. K. Johnston, 1909), 39. 114



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 49 9

Item to lyne þis govne and kirtill vj elnis and ane half black gray price of þe elne v s Summa—xxxij s vj d

Item, to line this gown and kirtle, 6½ ells of black gray, price of each ell 5s; total: 32s 6d.

Item to wat þe govne half ane elne and half ane quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xlv s

Item, to trim the gown, ⅝ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 45s.

Item to lyne þe sichtis of hir kirtill ane elne braid reid price þairof—xxviij s

Item, to line the scyes of her kirtle, an ell of broad red, price thereof 28s.

Item tobe hir ane hude and paitclaith vij quarteris blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, to be a hood and partlet for her, 1¾ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £6 6s.

Item to lyne þis hude and tobe cornettis half ane elne blak sating price—xviij s

Item, to line this hood and to be cornets, ½ ell of black satin, price 18s.

Item tobe her an pe foure elnis vnprest blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, to be a cloak for her, 4 ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item to watt þis pe half ane elne and half ane quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xlv s [644]

Item, to trim this cloak, ⅝ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 45s.

Lady Jane Stewart According to Paul, this entry for laundry expenses is for an illegitimate daughter of King James V named Lady Jane Stewart, later Countess of Argyll.116 January 1542/43 Item gevin to agnes gillespy for wescheing of lady Janis claithis þis ȝere bipast—vj li [10]

Item, given to Agnes Gillespie for washing of Lady Jean’s clothes this past year, £6.

Jane Hamilton This is unlikely to be the Regent’s daughter Jean, as the 9½ ells of damask given for the gown is almost twice as much as the oldest daughter Barbara received in the same month. Jean was younger than Barbara and therefore probably smaller. This Jane could be any of the Jeans or Janes or Janets Hamilton that appear in these Accounts, as the names Jean, Jane, and Janet were interchangeable. 116

Paul, Accounts, 8:xxxvii.

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March 1542/43: These are excerpts from a long series that included clothing for several people. The full entry is listed under in the earlier section for Lady Margaret Douglas. Item deliuerit to be ane gowne to Jane hammiltoune ix elnis ½ elne dames, price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, delivered to be a gown for Jane Hamilton, 9½ ells of damask, price of each ell 32s; total: £15 4s.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill and to geit ane gowne to barbara of tanny dames vij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xxiij li ij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her and to trim a gown of tawny damask for Barbara, 7 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £23 2s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe bodyis of all þe foresaidis claithis xij elnis quhite fustiane, price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, delivered to him to line the bodies of all the aforesaid clothes, 12 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe saidis twa gownis of blak dames and ane gowne of blak sating furneist be william tailliefere, twa elnis ½ quarter blak veluet price of þe elne lvj s Summa—v li xix s [25]

Item, delivered to him to trim the said two gowns of black damask and a gown of black satin furnished by William Tailliefere, 2⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell 56s; total: £5 19s.

Jean Hamilton the Younger It is possible that this grant was for the Regent’s middle daughter, though the fact that she was styled as “the younger” makes that doubtful. This material could also have been for one of the several half-sisters of the Regent named Jean. Although there were more than two, perhaps only two of them were at court in March 1546/47. March 1546/47 Item þe samyn day be his graces precept and furnist be Jhonne Achisoun to Gene Hammiltoun ȝoungar fyve elnis franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, the same day, by his grace’s precept and furnished by John Acheson to Jean Hamilton the younger, 5 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item vj quarteris welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—v li [290]

Item, 1½ ells of velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £5.117

Lady Jean Lyle Lady Jean, referred to as the Regent’s “cousignace” (cousiness), was the daughter of John Lyle, fourth and last Lord Lyle. Her mother Elizabeth Beaton was sister to Arran’s mother 117

The total should be £5 5s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 0 1

Janet Beaton.118 Lady Jean’s wedding to Neil Montgomery of Lainshaw or Langshaw, son of the Earl of Eglinton,119 was marked in the Accounts (for a fuller discussion, see p. 129). She seems to have been living with the Regent’s family for at least part of the time represented in the entries below, as there is a combined tailor’s bill that includes charges for her, Arran’s daughter, and the Herries sisters [503]. The clothes given to her were not particularly rich, though they were eminently respectable for a well-born relative of the Regent, being mostly good-quality wool gowns (some trimmed with velvet), silk or wool kirtles, cloaks, and velvet hoods. September 1545 Item þe secund day of september be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis cousignace þe lady lyle sewin elnis paris blak to be hir ane goun and ane ryding cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiiij li

Item, the 2nd day of September, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s cousin, the Lady Lyle, 7 ells of Paris black to be a gown and a riding cloak for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £14.

Item vij elnis lylis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—v li v s

Item, 7 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £5 5s.

Item thre elnis welwot to begary þe said cloke and goun and to be hir ane hude price of þe elne x iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, 3 ells of velvet to trim the said cloak and gown, and to be a hood for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item for lynnyng and making of other necessaris and making of þe saiddis clathis—iij li [162]

Item, for lining and making of, other necessities, and making of the said clothes, £3.

February 1546/47

118

Item xxvjto februarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande nyne elnis franche blak to be ane goun to my Lady Lyle price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xvj li iiij s

Item, February 26th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 9 ells of French black to be a gown for my Lady Lyle, price of each ell 36s; total: £16 4s.

Item be þis same precept nyne elnis vnwaterrit chamlot to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, by this same precept, 9 ells of unwatered camlet to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 14s; total: £6 6s.

George Crawfurd, The Peerage of Scotland: Containing an Historical and Geneaological Account of the Nobility of that Kingdom (Edinburgh: printed for the author, 1716), 292; Paul, Peerage, 4:360. 119 Paul, Peerage, 5:556 and 3:436; Crawfurd, Peerage of Scotland, 292.

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Item to hir thre elnis taffate price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 3 ells of taffeta for her, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.

Item mair ane elne blak sating price—xxxvj s

Item, also an ell of black satin, price 36s.

Item thre elnis welwote to begarye þis kirtill and to mak hir ane hude price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s [275]

Item, 3 ells of velvet to trim this kirtle and to make a hood for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

May 1547 Item payit be /m/ James forster to Jhonne Dougall þt restit awyn for certaine lynynges to lady Genes clathis—xxvj s iiij d [317]

Item, paid by Master James Forester to John Dougal that was still owed for certain linings for Lady Jean’s clothes, 26s 4d.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces cousingnes Gene lyle xj elnis champlat to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xij s Summa—vj li xij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s cousin, Jean Lyle, 11 ells of camlet to be a gown for her, price of each ell 12s; total: £6 12s.

Item vij elnis sating to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xj li iiij s

Item, 7 ells of satin to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 32s; total: £11 4s.

Item tua elnis welwote to be hir ane hude paitlattis and other necessares to þir clathis price of þe elne iij li Summa—vj li

Item, 2 ells of velvet to be a hood, partlets, and other necessities for these clothes for her, price of each ell £3; total: £6.

Item foure elnis prest blak to be hir ane cloke price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—viij li xvj s

Item, 4 ells of pressed black to be a cloak for her, price of each ell 44s; total: £8 16s.

Item viij elnis gray to be ane part of lynyng to þir clathis price of þe elne xlij d Summa—xxviij s

Item, 8 ells of gray to be a part of lining to these clothes, price of each ell 42d; total: 28s.

Item ane elne of reid to þe sychtis of hir kirtill price—xv s [367]

Item, an ell of red for the scyes of her kirtle, price 15s.

October 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces cousingnes þe ladye Lyle xiiij elnis lylis worsat and ane half, to be hir ane goun & ane kirtill price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—x li iij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s cousin, the Lady Lyle, 14½ ells Lille worsted to be a gown and kirtle for her, price of each ell 14s; total: £10 3s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 03

Item tua elnis blak welwote to bordoure þis goun and kirtill price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to border this gown and kirtle, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item to hir thre elnis blak taffate price of þe elne xv s Summa—xlv s

Item, 3 ells of black taffeta for her, price of each ell 15s; total: 45s.

Item to hir foure elnis hollande claith price of þe elne xij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 4 ells of Holland cloth for her, price of each ell 12s; total: 48s.

Item to lyne þir clathis viij elnis blak gray price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxvj s

Item, to line these clothes, 8 ells of black gray, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 36s.

Item vj quartaris reid stemmyng to þe sychtis of hir goun price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s [410]

Item, 1½ ells of red stemming for the scyes of her gown, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

April 1549 Item be my lord gouernoures spetiall commande to þe ladye lyle to eik hir precept quhilk scho gat of before v elnis lylis worsat price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—iij li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to the Lady Lyle to add to her precept which she got before, 5 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 14s; total: £3 10s.

Item to hir mair thre elnis blak sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li viij s [466]

Item, to her also 3 ells of black satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 8s.

August 1549 Item vij elnis gray dalmes to be ane kirtill to Jene lyle price of þe elne xxxiiij s summa— xj li xviij s

Item, 7 ells of gray damask to be a kirtle for Jean Lyle, price of each ell 34s; total: £11 18s.

…

…

Item to bordoure þis kirtill of gray dalmes vj quartaris of gray welwote þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li [491]

Item, to border this kirtle of gray damask, 1½ ells of gray velvet, each ell £4; total: £6.

September 1549 Item be my lord gouernoures spetiall command to his graces cousingnes gene lyle at hir mariage upoun neyll montgomerie ix elnis blak dalmes to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxxviij s—xviij li ij s 120

The total should be £17 2s.

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s cousin Jean Lyle, for her marriage to Neil Montgomery, 9 ells of black damask to be a gown for her, price of each ell 38s; [total:] £18 2s.120

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Item viij elnis tanny sating to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxviij s—xv li iiij s

Item, 8 ells of tawny satin to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 38s; [total:] £15 4s.

Item xiiij elnis tannye weluot to be hir ane vþer goun price of þe elne iij li xv s—lij li x s

Item, 14 ells of tawny velvet to be another gown for her, price of each ell £3 15s; [total:] £52 10s.

Item fyve quartaris blak weluot to begarie hir goun of dalmeȝ price of þe elne iij li x s—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to trim her gown of damask, price of each ell £3 10s; [total:] £4 7s 6d.

Item vij elnis reid to lyne þe sichtis of hir gownyis and kirtillis price of þe elne xv s—vj li

Item, 7 ells of red to line the scyes of her gowns and kirtles, price of each ell 15s; [total:] £6.121

Item tua vnce parice silk till sew þir claytis—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of Paris silk to sew these clothes, 18s.

Item ane bolt of franche threid—xij s

Item, a bolt of French thread, 12s.

Item tua elnis fyne blak weluet to be hir hude and paitlottis þe elne iiij li—viij li

Item, 2 ells of fine black velvet to be a hood and partlets for her, each ell £4; [total:] £8.

Item mair to lyne þir claytis xvj elnis blak gray price of þe elne iiij s vj d summa—iij li xij s

Item, also to line these clothes, 16 ells of black gray, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: £3 12s.

Item iiii elnis canves to þir samyn clay tis —xij s

Item, 4 ells of canvas for these same clothes, 12s.

…

…

Item to lyne þe tale of gene lylis weluot goun iiij elnis tanny taffate þe elne xvj s—iij li iiij s [495]

Item, the line the hem of Jean Lyle’s velvet gown, 4 ells of tawny taffeta, each ell 16s; [total:] £3 4s.

October 1549 Item xv to Octobris to […] andersoun tailȝeour at his passing to hammilton and tarying thair be þe space of xij dayes and tua seruandis with him In making of clathis to þe tua airis of heres to Gene lyle and to my lorde gouernoures douchter In compleit pament of xj li xij s—viij li v s [503]

121

Item, October 15th, to [ John] Anderson, tailor, at his passing to Hamilton and tarrying there for the space of 12 days, and two servants with him, in making of clothes for the two heirs of Herries, for Jean Lyle, and for my lord governor’s daughter, in complete payment of £11 12s; [total] £8 5s.

The total should be £5 5s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 8 instead of 7.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 0 5

Agnes, Katherine, and Jean, the Heirs of Herries Agnes, Katherine, and Jean (also called Jane and Janet—these names were interchangeable) were daughters of William, third Lord Herries of Terregles. After their father’s death they were co-heiresses, their marriages to be assigned by the Regent, of whom their father had been a staunch supporter.122 Agnes, the eldest, married John, Master of Maxwell, in March 1547/48.123 Katherine, the second daughter, married Sir Alexander Stewart of Garlies in February 1550/51.124 Jean, the youngest, married Sir James Cockburn of Skirling in the spring of 1552.125 The Regent seemed to take his investment in the Heirs of Herries quite seriously, as they were granted clothing and accessories similar in quality and variety to that of his daughters. Although not rising to the quantity received by either Anne or Barbara, their wardrobes as represented in the Accounts far outstripped Jean’s. The type, quantity, and quality of items they received imply that the Regent considered them his dependents, but certain articles must have been supplied from other sources. For example, there is but one grant of shoes in the six years during which they appear in the Accounts. The Regent also provided expensive trousseaux for the Herries sisters at their marriages (see p. 129). Not only did he treat them as dependents, the younger two heiresses seem to have been living with the Regent’s family [490, 503, 541] as his wards. He certainly had custody of them, as Katherine claimed she was “taken by force in her minority and kept in the ‘strincht and captyvitie’ [strength (as in a stronghold) and captivity] till she was ‘compellit and coactit’ [compelled and coerced] to resign” her third of the barony of Herries to Arran’s son John,126 but the fact that they were twice given riding cloaks [287, 491] implies that they had at least some freedom of movement. Although there are many references to Katherine and Jean, Agnes is never named in these Accounts, and most of the line items for the Heirs of Herries specify two of them rather than three, suggesting that Agnes lived separately from her sisters. Agnes may have been the recipient of a sizable grant of clothing designated for “the eldest of the heirs of Herries” [348, January 1547/48]. These items make up a small but very respectable and fairly complete wardrobe and may have been intended as wedding clothing and trousseau for her marriage two months later.

122

For more details on the complexities of who had the gift of their marriages and the maneuvering for their lands, see Paul, Peerage, 4:408–11. 123 Ibid., 4:410. 124 Ibid., 4:158. 125 Ibid., 4:409. 126 Ibid., 4:408.

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January 1546/47

127

Item be his graces commande foure elnis and ane half of freis to be þe bairnis of heres tua gownnes price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vij li xiij s

Item, by his grace’s command, 4½ ells of frieze to be the children of Herries two gowns, price of each ell 34s; total: £7 13s.

Item tua elnis canves to lyne þe bodyes of þir gownnes price—vij s

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of these gowns, price 7s.

Item v quartaris bukrame to þir gownnes price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—v s viij d

Item, 1¼ ells of buckram for these gowns, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 5s 8d.127

Item for lyning to þir clathis—xxviij s

Item, for lining for these clothes, 28s.

Item, for making of thame, xiij s [262]

Item, for making of them, 13s.

Item xxviijto Januarii, bocht fra george henrisonis wyfe to be tua gownis to þe dochteris of hereis xij elnis dalmeȝ price of þe elne xl s summa—xxiiij li

Item, January 28th, bought from George Henrison’s wife to be two gowns for the daughters of Herries 12 ells of damask, price of each ell 40s; total: £24.

Item xj elnis champlot to be þame tua kirtillis price of þe elne xv s summa—viij li v s

Item, 11 ells of camlet to be two kirtles for them, price of each ell 15s; total: £8 5s.

Item iiij elnis thre quartaris welwot to be þame huddis paitlettis and vþer necessaris to þair clay this price of þe elne iij li summa— xiiij li v s

Item, 4¾ ells of velvet to be hoods, partlets, and other necessities for their clothes, price of each ell £3; total: £14 5s.

Item iiij elnis holland clayt to be þame collaris and vþer necessaris—xlviij s

Item, 4 ells of Holland cloth to be collars and other necessities for them, 48s.

Item ane elne vter fyne to be þame hois— xxx s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for them, 30s.

Item to lyne thair tua gownis and kirtillis xviij elnis gray þe elne iiij s summa—iij li xij s

Item, to line their two gowns and kirtles, 18 ells of gray, each ell 4s; total: £3 12s.

Item tua elnis reid to lyne þe sichtis of þair kirtillis—xlviij s

Item, 2 ells of red to line the scyes of their kirtles, 48s.

Item tua elnis canves to þe bodeis of þair gownis and kirtillis—v s

Item, 2 ells of canvas for the bodies of their gowns and kirtles, 5s.

Item for making of þair claythis—xliiij s [267]

Item, for making of their clothes, 44s.

The total should be 5s 7½d.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 07

February 1546/47 Item be his graces commande to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeour for making of þe arris of heres clathis—vij li x s [269]

Item, by his grace’s command, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of the heirs of Herries’ clothes, £7 10s.

Item xxijto februarii deliuerit to Jhonne andersoun, tailȝeour to lyne tua hudes to my lorde heres douchteris half ane elne of taffate—viij s [273]

Item, February 22nd, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, to line two hoods for my lord Herries’ daughters, ½ ell of taffeta, 8s.

March 1546/47 Item, xvto marcii to þe tua airres of heres be my lorde gouernoures precept to be þame tua kyrtillis threttene elnis lylis worsat price of þe elne xv s Summa—ix li xv s

Item, March 15th, to the two heirs of Herries by my lord governor’s precept to be two kirtles for them, 13 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £9 15s.

Item sevyn elnis pareis blak te be þame tua ryding peyes price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xj li xix s

Item, 7 ells of Paris black to be riding cloaks for them, price of each ell 34s; total: £11 19s.128

Item xxiiij elnis lynnyng to be þame sarkes price of þe elne iij s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, 24 ells of linen to be smocks for them, price of each ell 3s; total: £3 12s.

Item ane elne of blak to be þame hois price—xxxij s

Item, an ell of black to be hose for them, price 32s.

Item tua hattis to þame price—xxxij s [287]

Item, two hats for them, price 32s.

January 1547/48

128

Item be his graces spetiall commande xj elnis of reid dalmes to be þe eldest of þe airris of heres ane goun þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xx li xviij s

Item, by his grace’s special command, 11 ells of red damask to be a gown for the eldest of the heirs of Herries, each ell 38s; total: £20 18s.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vij elnis reid sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiiij li

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 7 ells of red satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £14.

Item thre elnis and ane half pareis blak to be hir ane goun þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, 3½ ells of Paris black to be a gown for her, each ell 40s; total: £7.

The total should be £11 18s. Interestingly, the numbers of ells, prices per ell, and totals in this series of line items seems to have been written in at a later date. The ink used for the numbers has faded more than the rest, and in some places it is clear that a space was left and then filled in later.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item tua elnis and ane half of welwote to be hir hude and paitlat and to begary hir clathis price of þe elne iiij li Summa—x li

Item, 2½ ells of velvet to be a hood and partlet for her and to trim her clothes, price of each ell £4; total: £10.

Item ane elne of vterfyne to be hir hois— xxxiiij s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for her, 34s.

Item thre elnis double worsat to be hir ane kirtill þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 3 ells of double worsted to be a kirtle for her, each ell 36s; total: £5 8s.

Item thre elnis and ane half reid stemmyng to be hir ane wylecote þe elne xv s Summa—lij s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of red stemming to be a petticoat for her, each ell 15s; total: 52s 6d.

Item x elnis blak gray to lyne þe foresaid gownnes þe elne v s Summa—l s

Item, 10 ells of black gray to line the aforesaid gowns, each ell 5s; total: 50s.

Item ane elne of taffateis to lyne hir hude and paitlattis—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta to line her hood and partlets, 16s.

Item for þe making of þe foresaid dalmes goun—xxij s

Item, for the making of the aforesaid damask gown, 22s.

Item ane elne and ane half of canves to þe bodyis of þir tua gownnes & kirtillis—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of canvas for the bodies of these two gowns and kirtles, 6s.

Item for making of þe sating kirtill—xiiij s

Item, for making of the satin kirtle, 14s.

Item for making of hir worsat kirtill—x s

Item, for making of her worsted kirtle, 10s.

Item for making of hir goun of blak—xij s

Item, for making of her gown of black, 12s.

Item for making of hir hudes paitlat and hois—viij s

Item, for making of her hood, partlet, and hose, 8s.

Item for silk to hir gownis and patlattis— viij s

Item, for silk for her gowns and partlets, 8s.

Item be his graces command to þe said eldest air of heres to by hir schone and other necessares—xliiij s

Item, by his grace’s command, to the said eldest heir of Herries, to buy her shoes and other necessities, 44s.

Item thre elnis holland claith to be hir curchays collarres and other necessares þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s [348]

Item, 3 ells of Holland cloth to be kerchiefs, collars, and other necessities for her, each ell 16s; total: 48s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 0 9

January 1548/49 Item be my lord gouernourris spetiall commande to Jhonne hammiltoun of Roplouch to be gevin to ane of þe airris of heres to be hir ane goun vj elnis blak dalmes price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa x li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to John Hamilton of Raploch to be given to one of the heirs of Herries to be a gown for her, 6 ells of black damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £10 16s.

Item vij elnis quhyte champlat of sylk to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xvj s Summa v li xij s

Item, 7 ells of white camlet of silk to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £5 12s.

Item v elnis blak welwote to begary hir goun and kirtill and to be hudis and paitlattis price of þe elne iij li xvj s Summa xix li

Item, 5 ells of black velvet to trim her gown and kirtle and to be hoods and partlets, price of each ell £3 16s; total: £19.

Item thre elnis taffate of þe corde to lyne þe taill of hir goun hudis and paitlattis þe elne xxij s Summa iij li vj s [430]

Item, 3 ells of taffeta of the cord to line the hem of her gown, hoods, and partlets, each ell 22s; total: £3 6s.

August 1549 Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to be gownes to þe airris of heres xij elnis and ane quartar tannye dalmes boucht at williame craik price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxij li xij d

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to be gowns for the heirs of Herries, 12¼ ells of tawny damask, bought at William Craik, price of each ell 36s; total: £22 0s 12d.

Item x elnis tannye sating to be þame tua kirtillis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— xviij li

Item, 10 ells of tawny satin to be two kirtles for them, price of each ell 36s; total: £18.

Item xj elnis lylis worsat to be þame dalie gownes price of þe elne xvj s Summa—viij li xvj s

Item, 11 ells of Lille worsted to be everyday gowns for them, price of each ell 16s; total: £8 16s.

Item tua elnis blak welwote to begary þir gownes and to be þame paitlattis and other necessares Summa—vij li

Item, 2 ells of black velvet to trim these gowns and to be partlets and other necessities for them, £7.

Item tua elnis tannye welwote to þair kirtillis of sating and to be thame slewis þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, 2 ells of tawny velvet for their kirtles of satin, and to be sleeves for them, each ell £3 12s; total: £7 4s.

Item tua elnis canves to lyne þe bodyis of þair gownes and kirtillis—vj s viij d

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of their gowns and kirtles, 6s 8d.

5 10

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item foure elnis reid stemmyng to þe sychtis of thair gownnes and kirtillis þe elne xv s Summa—iij li

Item, 4 ells of red stemming for the scyes of their gowns and kirtles, each ell 15s; total: £3.

Item xx elnis gray to þair clathis þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—iiij li x s [488]

Item, 20 ells of gray for their clothes, each ell 4s 6d; total: £4 10s.

Item to ane boy to turs þe bairnis of heres clathis to hammiltoun—vj s [490]

Item, to a boy to carry the children of Herries’ clothes to Hamilton, 6s.

Item be my lord gouernoures special command furnist mair to þe airis of heres and bocht at maister Jhone xij elnis blak champlot watterit price of þe elne xiiij s to be þame gownis Summa—viij li viij s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, furnished also to the heirs of Herries and bought at Master John’s, 12 ells of black watered camlet, price of each ell 14s; to be gowns for them, total: £8 8s.

…

…

Item vij elnis half ane quartar vnprest blak till be tua ryding peis to þe dochteris of hereis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xij li xvj s vj d

Item, 7⅛ ells of unpressed black to be two riding cloaks for the daughters of Herries, price of each ell 36s; total: £12 16s 6d.

Item v quartaris blak weluet to walt þair peis price of þe elne iij li x s—iiij li vij s vj d [491]

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to welt their cloaks, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £4 7s 6d.

September 1549 Item to Jhonn Andersoun tailȝeour send furt of Edinburgh to hammyltoun to mak þir clay tis and þe clay tis send to my lord gouernoures dochter for his lauboures expenss and hors hyre and for þe making of certane clay tis to þe bairnys of hereis þair—[…] [496]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, sent forth from Edinburgh to Hamilton to make these clothes and the clothes sent to my lord governor’s daughter, for his labors, expenses, and horse rental and for the making of certain clothes for the children of Herries there—[…]

October 1549 Item xv to Octobris to […] andersoun tailȝeour at his passing to hammilton and tarying thair be þe space of xij dayes and tua seruandis with him In making of clathis to þe tua airis of heres to Gene lyle and to my lorde gouernoures douchter In compleit pament of xj li xij s—viij li v s [503]

Item, October 15th, to [ John] Anderson, tailor, at his passing to Hamilton and tarrying there for the space of 12 days, and two servants with him, in making of clothes for the two heirs of Herries, for Jean Lyle, and for my lord governor’s daughter, in complete payment of £11 12s; [total:] £8 5s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 11

December 1549 Item þe ferd day of December be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande foure elnis vnprest blak to be ane pEe to ane of þe airris of heres price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—vij li xij s

Item, the 3rd day of December, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 4 ells of unpressed black to be a cloak for one of the heirs of Herries, price of each ell 38s; total: £7 12s.

Item half elne and half quartar welwote to þe samyn—xliij s ix d [515]

Item, ⅝ ell of velvet for the same, 44s 9d.

March 1549/50 Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to be tua gounes to þe airris of heres xiij elnis gray sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxiij li viij s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to be two gowns for the heirs of Herries, 13 ells of gray satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £23 8s.

Item to be tua kirtillis to þame xj elnis quhite dalmes price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xix li xvj s

Item, to be two kirtles for them, 11 ells of white damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £19 16s.

Item ane bolt of gray threid—x s

Item, a bolt of gray thread, 10s.

Item foure elnis braid reid to lyne þe sychtis of my ladye gouernoures kirtillis and thairis þe elne xxx s Summa—vj li

Item, 4 ells of broad red to line the scyes of my lady governor’s kirtles and the heirs’, each ell 30s; total: £6.

Item tua elnis and ane half canves to the lynnyng of my ladye gouernoures bodyes of kirtillis and þairis þe elne iiij s Summa— xs

Item, 2½ ells of canvas for the lining of my lady governor’s bodies of kirtles and the heirs’, each ell 4s; total: 10s.

Item xviij elnis lynyng gray to þe saidis clathis þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—iiij li xij d [537]

Item, 18 ells of lining gray for the said clothes, each ell 4s 6d; total: £4 0s 12d.

Item to ane boy to pas to hammiltoun wt certane silkis to be clething to my ladye gouernour and airris of heres—viij s [541]

Item, to a boy to travel to Hamilton with certain silks to be clothing for my lady governor and heirs of Herries, 8s.

Item to Jhonne andersoun tailȝeoure send to hammiltoun to mak my ladye gouernoures & bairnes of heres clathis in iij crownis of þe sone—iij li ix s [540]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, sent to Hamilton to make my lady governor’s and children of Herries’ clothes in 3 crowns of the sun, £3 9s.

5 12

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

May 1550 Item to him for making of tua gownis to þe airris of heres—xlvj s

Item, to him for making of two gowns for the heirs of Herries, 46s.

Item for glaspis to þe tua gownis—ij s

Item, for clasps for the two gowns, 2s.

Item for making of tua furnist hudis—xvj s

Item, for making of two furnished hoods, 16s.

…

…

Item a elne sating to lyne tua hudis to þe airris of heres—xxxviij s [587]

Item, an ell of satin to line two hoods for the heirs of Herries, 38s.

July 1550 Item to þe airris of heres ane elne of blak welwote—iiij li

Item, for the heirs of Herries an ell of black velvet, £4.

Item to þame thre elnis small hollande clay t price of þe elne xviij s Summa—liiij s

Item, for them 3 ells of fine Holland cloth, price of each ell 18s; total: 54s.

Item tua elnis gray welwote to be þame slewis þe elne iiij li Summa—viij li [600]

Item, 2 ells of gray velvet to be sleeves for them, each ell £4; total: £8.

Item þe xxix day of Julii be my lorde gouernoures precept to be ane cloke to gene heres thre elnis pareis blak price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—vj li xij s

Item, the 29th day of July, by my lord governor’s precept, to be a cloak for Jean Herries, 3 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 44s; total: £6 12s.

Item to þe same cloke ane elne of blak welwous—iij li xv s [602]

Item, for the same cloak an ell of black velvet, £3 15s.

February 1550/51 Item primo februarii be my lord governoures spetiale command coft tobe twa govnis to katherine and Jane hereis xv elnis gray sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxvij li

Item, February 1st, by my lord governor’s special command, bought to be two gowns for Katherine and Jane Herries, 15 ells of gray satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £27.

Item to bordour thir govnis and tobe foir slevis to þame thre elnis gray veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—x li xvj s

Item, to border these gowns and to be foresleeves for them, 3 ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £10 16s.

Item twa vnce steikin silk to thir govnis price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of sewing silk for these gowns, price of each ounce 9s; total: 18s.



129

Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 13

Item to be þame vthir twa govnis xv elnis purpour sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxvij li

Item, to be two other gowns for them, 15 ells of purple satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £27.

Item to bordour þir govnis tua elnis ane quarter purpour veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, to border these gowns, 2¼ ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £7 4s.129

Item twa vnce steikin silk to þame price þairof—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of sewing silk for them, price thereof 18s.

Item tobe thame twa govnis to weir ilk day xvj elnis vnwatterit chamlot price of þe elne viij s Summa—vj li viij s

Item, to be two gowns for them to wear every day, 16 ells of unwatered camlet, price of each ell 8s; total: £6 8s.

Item to bordoure thir gownes twa elnis blak veluett price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, to border these gowns, 2 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £7 4s.

Item ane vnce of silk to put on þe bordouris of thir govnis price þairof—ix s

Item, an ounce of silk to put [sew] on the borders of these gowns, price thereof 9s.

Item to lyne þir vj govnis xxviij elnis lynyng gray price of þe elne v s Summa—vij li

Item, to line these 6 gowns, 28 ells of lining gray, price of each ell 5s; total: £7.

Item v elnis canves to lyne þe bodyis of thir govnis price of þe elne iij s Summa—xv s

Item, 5 ells of canvas to line the bodies of these gowns, price of each ell 3s; total: 15s.

Item for claspis to thir gounis—v s

Item, for clasps for these gowns, 5s.

Item to Johnne Andersoun tailȝeour for making of thir govnis—v li iiij s

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of these gowns, £5 4s.

Item tobe þame hudis twa elnes and ane half blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—ix li

Item, to be hoods for them, 2½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £9.

Item tobe cornettis and to lyne thir hudis vj quarteris blak sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—liiij s

Item, to be cornets and to line their hoods, 1½ ells of black satin, price of each ell 36s; total: 54s.

Item half ane vnce of silk to sew thir hudis price þairof—iiij s vj d

Item, ½ ounce of silk to sew these hoods, price thereof 4s 6d.

Item tobe twa paitclaithis to thame ane elne blak veluet price þairof—iij li xij s

Item, to be two partlets for them, an ell of black velvet, price thereof £3 12s.

The total should be £8 2s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 2 instead of 2¼.

5 14

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item for bukrame and claspis to þir paitclaithis—iiij s

Item, for buckram and clasps for these partlets, 4s.

Item to Johnne Andersoun for making of thir twa hudis and paitclathis—xx s

Item, to John Anderson for making of these two hoods and partlets, 20s.

Item twa crapetis to þir hudis price of þe pece xxiij s Summa—xlvj s

Item, two crepes for these hoods, price of each piece 23s; total: 46s.

Item tobe beltis to þame thre elnis silk rubanis price of þe elne vj s Summa—xviij s [638]

Item, to be belts for them, 3 ells of silk ribbons, price of each ell 6s; total: 18s.

Item xvo februarii be my lord governouris spetiale command coft to be ane lang talit govne wt wide slevis to katherine hereis at hir Marriage xij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li xiiij s Summa—xliiij li viij s

Item, February 15th, by my lord governor’s special command, bought to be a gown with a long train and wide sleeves for Katherine Herries for her marriage, 12 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 14s; total: £44 8s.

Item tobe hir ane kirtill wt slevis viij elnis and ane half blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xxx li xij s

Item, to be a kirtle with sleeves for her, 8½ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £30 12s.

Item to be hir ane side talit govne viij elnis armosy taffiteis price of þe elne xl s Summa—xvj li

Item, to be a gown with a long train, 8 ells of armosene taffeta, price of each ell 40s; total: £16.

Item to be ane kirtill with menches to hir vij elnis and ane half purpour sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiij li x s

Item, to be a kirtle with sleeves for her, 7½ ells of purple satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £13 10s.

Item be his grace spetiale command coft tobe ane skirt of ane kirtill with slevis twa elnis and ane half cramesy sating price of þe elne iiij li Summa—x li

Item, by his grace’s special command, bought to be a skirt of a kirtle with sleeves, 2½ ells of crimson satin, price of each ell £4; total: £10.

Item to be hir ane vthir skirt for ane kirtill witht slevis twa elnis and ane half gray veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—ix li

Item, to be another skirt for a kirtle with sleeves for her, 2½ ells of gray velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £9.

Item to lyne þir kirtillis and skirtis thre elnis braid reid price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, to line these kirtles and skirts, 3 ells of broad red, price of each ell 28s; total: £4 4s.

Item tobe hir an pe foure elnis franche blak price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—viij li xvj s

Item, to be a cloak for her, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 44s; total: £8 16s.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 15

130

Item to watt þis pe quarter and half quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xlv s

Item, to trim this cloak, ⅜ ell of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: 45s.130

Item tobe hir hudis paitclaithis and vtheris small necessaris vj elnis blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xxj li xij s

Item, to be hoods, partlets, and other small necessities for her, 6 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £21 12s.

Item tobe gorgettis cornettis and vtheris small necessaris iiij elnis blak sating price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, to be gorgets, cornets, and other small necessities, 4 ells of black satin, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item tobe hir ane wylicoit vij quarteris Inglis reid price of þe elne xxviij s Summa— xlix s

Item, to be a petticoat for her, 1¾ ells of English red, price of each ell 28s; total: 49s.

Item tobe hir collaris and vtheris small necessaris x elnis holand claith price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—vj li xiij s iiij d

Item, to be collars and other small necessities for her, 10 ells of Holland cloth, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: £6 13s 4d.

Item ane sating hatt to hir price—xliiij s

Item, a satin hat for her, price 44s.

Item tobe tippettis to hir twa elnis taffiteis of foure thredis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, to be tippets for her, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item tobe hir hois thre elnis stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, to be hose for her, 3 ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item to Johnne Andersone tailȝeour for lynyngis sewin silk canves and vthir necessaris furnist be him to thir clathis aboue writtin conforme to his compt bill heir present to xiiij li xvj s iij d schaw vpone compt

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for linings, sewing silk, canvas, and other necessities furnished by him for these clothes above written, conforming to his bill £14 16s 3d. of account here present to show upon account—

Item to þe said Johne for making of þe saidis clathis— [645]

Item, to the said John for making of the said clothes—

The total should be 27s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were ⅝ instead of ⅜.

5 16

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

January 1551/52 Item be my lord gouernouris speciale command send to Jane heres ane crape to hir hude price þairof—xxij s [686]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, sent to Jane Herries, a crepe for her hood, price thereof 22s.

April 1552

131

Item xxviijo aprilis deliuerit to Jane hereis at hir mariage with þe lard of scraling xiij elnis blak welwett tobe hir ane lang talit gowne wt tway paire of bodeis and tway paire of slevis price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xlvj li xvj s

Item, April 28th, delivered to Jane Herries for the occasion of her marriage with the lord of Skirling, 13 ells of black velvet to be a gown with a train for her, with two pairs of bodies and two pairs of sleeves, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £46 16s.

Item v elnis and ane half blak taffiteis to lyne þe talis of þe samin price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li viij s

Item, 5½ ells of black taffeta to line the hem of the same, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 8s.

Item thre elnis and ane half crammisye satin to be hir ane skyrt slevis and vþeris necessaris þairto price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xij li v s

Item, 3½ ells of crimson satin to be a skirt, sleeves, and other necessities thereto for her, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £12 5s.

Item thre elnis tanny satin tobe hir ane vþir skirt and slevis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 3 ells of tawny satin to be another skirt and sleeves for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 8s.

Item thre elnis quhite satin tobe hir ane vþir skirt and slevis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 3 ells of white satin to be another skirt and sleeves for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 8s.

Item deliuerit to hir to be ane vþir gown xij elnis purpour welwett price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—xliij li iiij s

Item, delivered to her to be another gown 12 ells of purple velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £43 4s.

Item v elnis purpour taffiteis to lyne þe taile of þe samyn gowne price of þe xvj s Summa—v li iiij s

Item, 5 ells of purple taffeta to line the hem of the same gown, price of each [ell] 16s; total: £5 4s.131

Item for ane hatt to hir of welwet—iij li x s

Item, for a hat for her of velvet, £3 10s.

Item viij elnis blak armosy taffiteis tobe hir ane vþir lang talit gowne price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xiiij li viij s

Item, 8 ells of black armosene taffeta to be another gown with a train for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £14 8s.

The total should be £4. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 6½ instead of 5.



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 17

132

Item vj quarteris welwett to bordour þis gowne price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—v li v s

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to border this gown, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £5 5s.

Item sex elnis fyne Lwkis welwet to be hir partclathis and hudis price of þe elne iiij li xv s Summa—xxviij li x s

Item, 6 ells of fine Lucca velvet to be partlets and hoods for her, price of each ell £4 15s; total: £28 10s.

Item thre elnis fyne blak satin tobe hir cornettis missilles paitclaytis and vþiris necessaris price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, 3 ells of fine black satin to be cornets, mufflers, partlets, and other necessities for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item viij elnis of paris blak tobe hir clokis hois and vþiris necessaris price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xvij li xij s

Item, 8 ells of Paris black to be cloaks, hose, and other necessities for her, price of each ell 44s; total: £17 12s.

Item ane elne of blak welwett to bordour þe samyn price þairof—iij li x s

Item, an ell of black velvet to border the same, price thereof £3 10s.

Item vij quarteris reid stemmyng of millane tobe hir vilecotis price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li iij s

Item, 1¾ ells of red stemming of Milan to be petticoats for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 3s.

Item viij elnis small holand clat tobe hir collaris and vþiris necessaris price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—v li iiij s

Item, 8 ells of fine Holland cloth to be collars, and other necessities for her, price of each ell 14s; total: £5 4s.132

Item foure elnis cambreche clayt to put in þe slevis of hir gownis price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of cambric cloth to put in the sleeves of her gowns, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item thre crapis for hir hudis price of þe peice xxij s Summa—iij li vj s

Item, three crepes for her hoods, price of each piece 22s; total: £3 6s.

Item for hals bedis and buttonis to hir—xv s

Item, for bead necklace(s) and buttons for her, 15s.

Item to Johnne andersoun tailȝeour for making of þir clathis and furnessing of þe samyn with lyning silk bukcrame canves claspis and all vþir necessaris thairto conforme to his compte byll—ix li xij s iiij d

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of these clothes, and furnishing of the same with lining, silk, buckram, canvas, clasps, and all other necessities thereto, conforming to his account bill, £9 12s 4d.

Item deliuerit to hir tobe maid in garnessing and chenȝeis x vnce of gold price of þe vnce x li Summa—jc li [713]

Item, delivered to her to be made into garnishing and chains 10 ounces of gold, price of each ounce £10; total: £100.

The total should be £5 12s. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 13 instead of 14.

5 18

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

November 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris speciale command deliuerit to kathirene hereis spous to þe ȝoung lard of garleis to by hir garnessingis and chenȝeis wt—jc li

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to Katherine Herries, spouse to the young lord of Garlies, to buy her garnishings and chains with, £100.

Item to þe said katheryne to by hir clathis witht—xxxij li [768]

Item, to the said Katherine to buy her clothes with, £32.

Margaret Crichton Margaret is a bit of a mystery. There was a woman by that name who made and decorated shirts for the Regent [470, 494], but it is doubtful that such a woman would receive a silk gown and kirtle. Margaret Crichton, Countess of Rothes, an illegitimate daughter of William, third Lord Crichton and Princess Margaret, sister of King James III, had a fascinating history but seems to have died before 1546.133 Whoever this Margaret was, the grant of a silk gown and kirtle for her comes just after one for Elizabeth Hamilton, one of the Regent’s nieces, to wear to his daughter Barbara’s wedding [432], raising the possibility that this too was given to someone who would attend.134 April 1548 Item be his graces command to margaret creichtoun to by hir clathis—xvij li xij s [376]

Item, by his grace’s command, to Margaret Crichton to buy her clothes, £17 12s.

January 1548/49

133

Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to margaret creichtoun aucht elnis dalmeȝ to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxvij s vj d Summa—xv li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Margaret Crichton, 8 ells of damask to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 37s 6d; total: £15.

Item xiiij elnis sating to be hir ane goun pce of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxix li viij d [433]

Item, 14 ells of satin to be a gown for her, price of each ell 42s; total: £29 8d.

Paul, Peerage, 3:66–67. A silk gown and kirtle for one of the Herries sisters [430] precedes Elizabeth’s entry and may also be for this occasion. The grants for the Herries sister, Elizabeth, and Margaret are nestled between entries for Barbara’s wedding clothes [429, 436].

134



Women and Girl s of the Co urt 5 19

Mary Stewart (Later Known as Mary, Queen of Scots) Although Mary plays the starring role in later Accounts, she has only a single entry related to clothing and textiles in this section. A few other entries mark payments for her keepers (servants assigned to care for her), but her clothing must have been supplied from her mother’s private funds. Few images of her survive from this period. One was drawn ca. 1549 while she was living in France (fig. 24), and the other is a somewhat generic likeness on a Scottish penny from 1547.135 The latter shows her with her hair up and wearing a crown and a square neckline that is similar to the one she wears in the 1549 drawing. January 1542/43 Item gevin to alexr durahame guhilk he debursit for quhite teffites of Janis to þe princes baptyme—liiij s [9]

135

Merriman, Rough Wooings, title page.

Item, given to Alexander Durahame, which he spent on white taffeta of Genoa for the princess’ baptism, 54s.

Chapter 7

People Serving the Court and the Regent

S

ome people receiving clothing in the regency Accounts were simply part of the government structure. They had charge of castles or played a role in military readiness. Some had served the court during the reign of King James V and stayed in their positions after his death or received perquisites for past service. Others were part of the Regent’s own household, though because he was the head of the court, even these might be considered to be serving the interests of the court rather than him personally. Regardless of their exact status, it is clear that the Regent felt entirely justified in using public funds to pay for grants of clothing to all of the above. The Accounts describe many in this group as “servant.” The word is somewhat misleading to the modern mind, as it implies people of low status. In fact, many of the Regent’s servants had quite high status—it was not unusual at that time for the well-born to enter service to someone of greater rank. Some were even the Regent’s relations, by either blood or marriage. Hamiltons, many probably from the numerous lesser branches of the family, make up a large percentage of the Regent’s household. Others, however, seem to have been of humbler origins. Thus, there are extreme variations in the amount and quality of clothing given to people in this group. To make more sense of the wide array of people represented here, they have been divided by function: • “Personal Servants to the Regent” include his pages, those serving in his chamber and wardrobe, two churchmen, and several who seem to have done all manner of errands for him. • The “Treasury and Secretarial” category contains the messengers, a few members of management, and the writers and clerks. • “Food Preparation and Service” comprises a wide variety of personnel, from the cooks and the butcher to the Master of the Pantry. • “Household Management” covers those ensuring the smooth running of the operation, including the Master of Household, porters, animal handlers, and a few others. • “Castles and Military” personnel took charge of various properties, oversaw the Regent’s building program, and built and used weapons.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 21

• The “Other” category includes laundresses, musicians, falconers, former nurses, and a fool. • Finally, there is a list of “Unknown” people whose names are given, but whose brand of employment remains mysterious. Within each of these sections, people are alphabetized by first name.

PER SONA L SERVA NTS TO THE R E GE NT Alexander Hamilton (Groom of the Chamber) Several of the grooms of the chamber are described in the Accounts as “children of the chamber,” though most of them seem to have been adults. They maintained the Regent’s room, wherever he might be staying, and slept on pallets stuffed with straw laid on the floor.1 The amount of fustian required for Alexander’s doublet suggests that he was at least a young man. He was granted cheap to middling fabrics for the most part, with the exception of some good black wool in May 1550. October 1543 Item siclik be his gracis command to Alexr hammiltoun to pay for making of þe clathis contenit in his precept—xxij s [52]

Item, similarly, by his grace’s command, to Alexander Hamilton to pay for making of the clothes contained in his precept, 22s.

September 1546 Item be his gracis spetiall precept to alexander hammyltoun ane of þe childer of chalmer to by him claythis—iiij li [215]

Item, by his grace’s special precept, to Alexander Hamilton, one of the children of the chamber, to buy himself clothes, £4.

March 1547/48

  1

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept to Alexander hammiltoun ane of þe chylder of his graces chalmer ij elnis & a half color de roy to be him ane cote pryce of þe elne xxij s Summa—lv s

Item, by my lorde governor’s precept, to Alexander Hamilton, one of the children of his grace’s chamber, 2½ ells of color de roy to be a coat for him, price of each ell 22s; total: 55s.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item sex quartaris franche gray to be him hois pryce of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s [370]

Item, 1½ ells of French gray to be hose for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

NRS E21/42/233r.

5 22

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

December 1549 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Alexander hammiltoun ane of þe grwmes of his graces chalmer thre elnis color de roy to be him ane cloke price of the elne xxviij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Alexander Hamilton, one of the grooms of his grace’s chamber, 3 ells of color de roy to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 28s; total: £4 4s.

Item ane elne uterfyne to be him hois— xxxvj s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for him, 36s.

Item thre elnis fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne x s Summa—xxx s

Item, 3 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 10s; total: 30s.

Item ane blak bonet to him price—xviij s [516]

Item, a black bonnet for him, price 18s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote and theis of hois to Alexander hammiltoun tua elnis blak price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, to be a coat and thighs of hose for Alexander Hamilton, 2 ells of black, price of each ell 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item for thre bonnettis to Alexander hammiltoun Kyntaill and dempstar price of þe peis xx s Summa—iij li [576]

Item, for three bonnets for Alexander Hamilton, Kyntaill, and Dempstar, price of each piece 20s; total: £3.

February 1550/51 Item be his grace precept and spetiale command to Alexander hammiltoun ane of þe grvmes of his grace chalmer to by him claithis wt—v li [641]

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, to Alexander Hamilton, one of the grooms of his grace’s chamber, to buy himself clothes with, £5.

Andrew Gourlay (Servant in the Wardrobe) Andrew seems to have joined the wardrobe much later than Malcolm and Robert Gourlay (below), as his only entries in the Accounts are in 1552. He probably had a fairly low status in the household, as he was given a relatively small amount of money—comparable to Alexander Hamilton, above—with which to buy clothing. December 1552 Item be his graces spetiall command to andro gourlay seruande in his graces gardrap to by him clathis with—v li [779]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Andrew Gourlay, servant in his grace’s wardrobe, to buy himself clothes with, £5.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 23

Arthur Hamilton (Page) Arthur was the second of the three pages that Arran employed while Regent. (He seems to have had only one at any given time.) The pages were personal assistants to the Regent, but one of their main functions was display. They all had display livery in heraldic colors for the purpose of adding to Arran’s consequence in public.2 Arthur’s entries run from June 1549 to November 1550. Most of what he received was heraldic display livery made of fine fabrics, but a few pieces in plain black and gray might have been intended to be more anonymous in character. A few of the latter, however, were another type of ceremonial wear, as they were mourning clothes given out after the death of Marie de Guise’s father. June 1549

  2

Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to his graces page Arthure hammiltoun to be him ane clok and ane cote thre elnis and thre quartares Inglische russat price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li xv s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to his grace’s page, Arthur Hamilton, to be a cloak and a coat for him, 3¾ ells of English russet, price of each ell 36s; total: £6 15s.

Item v quartaris gray stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xv s Summa—xviij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 15s; total: 18s 9d.

Item ane elne of reid welwote and ane elne of quhite welwote to bordoure þis cote and cloke—viij li

Item, an ell of red velvet and an ell of white velvet to border this coat and cloak, £8.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item thre quartarris of þis samyn stemmyng to lyne þir hois price—xj s iij d

Item, ¾ ell of this same stemming to line these hose, price 11s 3d.

Item tua elnis of canves to þe bodyes of þis cote and stenting to þe doublat þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of canvas for the bodies of this coat and stiffening for the doublet, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item lyning to þis cote and doublat—xv s

Item, lining for this coat and doublet, 15s.

Item j ds buttonis to þis cote—ij s

Item, 12 buttons for this coat, 2s.

Item tua ds pointtis—iiij s

Item, 24 points, 4s.

Item ane bonet—xvj s [476]

Item, a bonnet, 16s.

See pp. 00–00 for a full discussion of display livery.

5 2 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

December 1549 Item to Archibald Dewar to be ane cote and ane cloke to Arthure hammiltoun my lorde gouernoures page thre elnis and thre quartaris Inglische broun þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li xv s

Item, to Archibald Dewar to be a coat and a cloak for Arthur Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, 3¾ ells of English brown, each ell 36s; total: £6 15s.

Item ane elne of reid welwote to be ane part of þe bordoure of Arthure hammiltoun his graces page cote price—iiij li

Item, an ell of red velvet to be one part of the border of Arthur Hamilton, his grace’s page, coat, price £4.

Item ane other elne of quhite welwote to be þe other part of þe bordoure to þis cote—iij li xviij s

Item, another ell of white velvet to be the other part of the border for this coat, £3 18s.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þis cote—ix s

Item, 2 ells gray to line this coat, 9s.

Item ane vnce and ane half of silk to sew on þe bordoures of þis cote & cloke price— xvj s vj d

Item, an ounce and a half of silk to sew on the borders of this coat and cloak, price 16s 6d.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item tua elnis gray Inglische stemmyng to be him hois wt lynnynges—xxx s

Item, 2 ells of gray English stemming to be hose with linings for him, 30s.

Item ane bonet to him—xviij s [518]

Item, a bonnet for him, 18s.

Item for making of his graces page cote & cloke—xx s

Item, for making of his grace’s page’s coat and cloak, 20s.

…

…

Item for making of þe pages hois and doublet and stenting to it—viij s [519]

Item, for making of the page’s hose and doublet and stiffening for it, 8s.

April 1550 Item be my lord gouernoures spetiall command to Arthure hammyltoun tua elnis and ane qrtar gray stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois þe elne xiiij s smma—xxxj s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Arthur Hamilton, 2¼ ells of gray stemming to be a pair of hose for him, each ell 14s; total: 31s 6d.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 25

Item vij quartaris gray taffate to þe samyn þe elne xiiij s—xxxj s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of gray taffeta for the same, each ell 14s; total: 31s 6d.3

Item x quartaris blak fusteane to be him ane doublet þe elne ix s—xxij s vj d [550]

Item, 2½ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; [total:] 22s 6d.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote and ane cloke to Arthure hammiltoun my lorde gouernoures page foure elnis and ane quartar prest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—ix li xv s vj d

Item, to be a coat and a cloak for Arthur Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, 4¼ ells of pressed black, price of each ell 46s, total: £9 15s 6d.

Item thre quartaris & ane half blak to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxvj s ix d

Item, ⅞ ell of black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 42s; total: 36s 9d.

Item half ane elne scottis blak to lyne his hois—xij s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line his hose, 12s.

Item ane bonet to him—xx s [568]

Item, a bonnet for him, 20s.

July 1550

  3

Item thre quartaris and ane half vterfyne to be ane pair of hois to Arthure hammiltoun my lorde gouernoures page price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s ix d

Item, ⅞ ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for Arthur Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 9d.

Item v quartaris taffate to lyne þame wt— xx s

Item, 1¼ ells of taffeta to line them with, 20s.

Item for gray to þame—v s

Item, for gray for them, 5s.

…

…

Item for making of ane pair of hois to Arthure my lorde gouernoures page—iiij s [604]

Item, for making of a pair of hose for Arthur, my lord governor’s page, 4s.

The total should be 24s 6d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 2¼ instead of 1¾.

5 26

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

November 1550 Item Secundo Nouembris coft tobe Arthure hammiltoun my lord governouris page ane dowblet x quarteris blak fustiane price of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, November 2nd, bought to be Arthur Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, a doublet, 2½ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item for canves to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for canvas for the same, 3s.

Item for quhite to lyne It witht—viij s

Item, for white to line it with, 8s.

Item for making of þe samyn—iij s [619]

Item, for making of the same, 3s.

December 1550 Item be my lord governouris precept and spetiale command coft tobe Arthure hammyltoun his g/ page ane coit and ane cloke iiij elnis Inglis scarlett price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—ix li iiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought to be Arthur Hamilton, his grace’s page, a coat and a cloak, 4 ells of English scarlet, price of each ell 46s; total: £9 4s.

Item to bordoure þis coit and cloke vij quarteris quhite veluet price of þe elne iij li xviij s Summa—vj li xvj s vj d

Item, to border this coat and cloak, 1¾ ells of white velvet, price of each ell £3 18s; total: £6 16s 6d.

Item tobe him ane dowblet xj quarteris blak fustiane price of þe elne ix s Summa— xxiiij s ix d

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2¾ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item thre quarteris of canves to it price—ij s iij d

Item, ¾ ell of canvas for it, price 2s 3d.

Item to be him ane pair of hois thre quarteris and ane half Incarnet stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xl s Summa—xxxv s

Item, to be a pair of hose for him, ⅞ ell of incarnate stemming of Milan, price of each ell 40s; total: 35s.

Item ane elne quhite taffite of þe cord to lyne þir hois price þairof—xviij s

Item, an ell of white taffeta of the cord to line these hose, price thereof 18s.

Item to lyne þis dowblet and hois thre elnis quhite price of þe elne v s Summa—xv s

Item, to line this doublet and hose, 3 ells of white, price of each ell 5s; total: 15s.

Item ane vnce of quhite silk to sew þe bordouris on þis coit and cloke price—x s

Item, an ounce of white silk to sew the borders on this coat and cloak, price 10s.

Item for making of þis leveray to him— xxiij s

Item, for making of this livery for him, 23s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 27

Item for ane dosane of poyntis to him—ij s

Item, for 12 points for him, 2s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiij s [630]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 23s.

Arthur Hamilton of Orbiston (General Servant) This is probably a different person from the Arthur Hamilton above (Arran’s page), as an order for a cloak for the one follows directly on an order for a cloak for the other. In addition, the page’s cloaks were for the most part quite distinctive, as most of them were heraldic livery. Also called Arthur Hamilton of Parkhead, this Arthur was a son of Marion Wallace and Gavin Hamilton, Lord of Orbiston.4 His brothers David, James, and John Hamilton, all styled as “of Orbiston,” also served the Regent and appear elsewhere in this chapter. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cloke to Arthure hammiltoun of Orbistoun thre elnis and ane half vnprest blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa— vij li vij s

Item, to be a cloak for Arthur Hamilton of Orbiston, 3½ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: £7 7s.

Item sex qartaris & a half blak to be ane cote to þe said arthure price of þe elne xlij s Summa—iij li viij s iij d

Item, 1⅝ ells of black to be a coat for the said Arthur, price of each ell 42s; total: £3 8s 3d.

Item to be hois to him ane elne of þis blak—xlij s [569]

Item, to be hose for him, an ell of this black, 42s.

Item ane bonet to Arthure hammiltoun of orbistoun—xiiij s [573]

Item, a bonnet for Arthur Hamilton of Orbiston, 14s.

Claude Stratoun (Page) Claude was the first of the pages employed by the Regent, and he appears in that capacity in the Accounts between February 1544/45 and April 1548. He has further entries, however, until March 1552/53, in which it is revealed that he was the son of Monsieur Mullings. Mullings was paid twice via the Accounts, received a horse and saddle, and bore letters from the Regent to France in 1552.5 It is not clear what relationship he had with the Regent. In his transcription, Paul listed the initial set of clothing for Claude [113] as if it were for Master Henry Lauder, advocate to the Regent, instead.6 The last entry on the previous page of the manuscript was a payment for Master Lauder, and the top of the page with the clothing listed was quite damaged. Paul ignored the mostly illegible portion, and his   4

Hamilton, History, 640, 668. Paul, Accounts, 10:74, 84, 86.   6 Ibid., 8:346–47.   5

5 2 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

next line item in the published transcription was “Item thre quarteris Inglische quhyte to be ane part of his hois.” However, the first item on the damaged page contains the name Claude in the small readable section, making it clear that this and the following entries were for him rather than Henry Lauder. That also helps to make sense of the English white for “one part of his hose,” as Arran’s pages sometimes wore particolored heraldic display livery. Interestingly, the rest of the clothing granted to Claude while he was a page was in solid colors, mostly black and red. Roughly half of the shoes not intended for Arran in the regency Accounts were for Claude. Either he was chiefly employed as a runner, or his feet were growing quickly, or both. Of the last two grants of clothing, four years after the final entry for him as a page, the first was for a full set of coat, cloak, doublet, and hose. The coat and cloak were of very nice wool bordered with satin and the doublet all of satin. The Regent’s final gift to Claude was of fewer pieces, but this was balanced by the fine quality of the fabric. The doublet was satin as before, but the coat and cloak were made of very expensive wool of the seal of Rouen, which was £3 (i.e., 60s) per ell as opposed to the 40s per ell of the fabric used for the coat and cloak in the previous grant. In addition to these fine clothes, Claude also received some money and a horse from the Regent,7 suggesting either a great fondness for him or that Claude was working for Arran in some capacity even after he was no longer a page. February 1544/45

  7

8 and ane half

and a half

[c]loke to claud

cloak for Claude

price of þe elne

price of each ell

[Summa]—vij li xiiij s

[total:] £7 14s.

Item thre quarteris Inglische quhyte to be ane part of his hois—vj s

Item, ¾ ell of English white to be one part of his hose, 6s.

Item ix quarteris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xx s iij d

Item, 2¼ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 20s 3d.

Item to lyne his cote thre elnis gray price of þe elne iij s Summa—ix s

Item, to line his coat, 3 ells of gray, price of each ell 3s; total: 9s.

Item vij quarteris lynnyng quhite to his doublat and hois price of þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—iiij s j d [113]

Item, 1¾ ells of lining white for his doublet and hose, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 4s 1d.

Ibid., 10:21, 31. This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. See the introductory text under Claude Stratoun above for discussion of Paul’s treatment of this section.

  8



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 29

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris spetiall command for ane bonet and ane pair of schone to his gracis page—xvj s

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s special command, for a bonnet and a pair of shoes for his grace’s page, 16s.

Item þe samyn day for ix elnis Lynnyng claith to be sairkis to þe said page price of þe elne xviij d Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, the same day, for 9 ells of linen cloth to be shirts for the said page, price of each ell 18d; total: 13s 6d.

Item for making of þame—iij s [114]

Item, for making of them, 3s.

April 1545 Item for þe expensis maid on my lord gouer[noris page] claude stratoun þe space of ane moneth þe tyme of [his] seiknes—9

Item, for the expenses made on my lord gover[nour’s page], Claude Stratoun, in the space of a month during the time of [his] sickness,

Item for ane pair of schone to þe said page—ij s [132]

Item, for a pair of shoes for the said page, 2s.

May 1545 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to his gracis page claude stratoun for ane reid bonet—xxii s [144]

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s page Claude Stratoun for a red bonnet, 22s.

June 1545 Item for ane pair of schone to him—ij s [148]

Item, for a pair of shoes for him, 2s.

July 1545 Item for ane pair of schone to my lord gouernoris page—xviij d [153]

Item, for a pair of shoes for my lord governor’s page, 18d.

August 1545 Item for ane pair of schone to claude stratoun page to my lord gouernour—xviij d [161]

Item, for a pair of shoes for Claude Stratoun, page to my lord governor, 18d.

October 1545 Item for ane pair of schone to my lord gouernoris page claude stratoun—xviij d [167]

  9

Item, for a pair of shoes for my lord governor’s page, Claude Stratoun, 18d.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing.

5 3 0

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

February 1545/46 Item þe samin day be my lord gouernoris command to Claud stratoun his gracis page to by him schone—ij s [190]

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s command, to Claude Stratoun, his grace’s page, to buy shoes for him, 2s.

April 1546 Item þe xxiiij day of aprile be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to his gracis page claude stratoun tua elnis blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne vij s Summa—xiiij s

Item, the 24th day of April, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s page, Claude Stratoun, 2 ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 7s; total: 14s.

Item to lyne þis doublat thre elnis lyning fustiane price of þe elne iij s Summa—ix s

Item, to line this doublet, 3 ells of lining fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 9s.

Item thre quarteris vterfyne to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa— xxiiij s

Item, ¾ ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 24s.

Item half ane elne of Scottis blak to lyne þir hois price—x s

Item, ½ ell of Scottish black to line these hose, price 10s.

Item for stenting of þe doublat and making of þe hois and doublat—v s

Item, for stiffening of the doublet and making of the hose and doublet, 5s.

Item for pointtis to his clathis—ij s

Item, for points for his clothes, 2s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xx s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 20s.

Item for ane pair of schone to him—ij s [198]

Item, for a pair of shoes for him, 2s.

May 1546 Item þe samyn day to his gracis page to by him schone—ij s [202]

Item, the same day, to his grace’s page to buy shoes for him, 2s.

July 1546 Item xijto Julij for ane pair of hois to claude my lord gouernoris page & for making of þame and pointtis to þe samyn—xij s iiij d

Item, July 12th, for a pair of hose for Claude, my lord governor’s page, for making of them, and points for the same, 12s 4d.

Item for tua sarkis to him, xj s

Item, for two shirts for him, 11s.

Item for making of þame—iiij s

Item, for making of them, 4s.

Item for ane pair of schone to him—ij s [208]

Item, for a pair of shoes for him, 2s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 3 1

August 1546 Item xiijto august be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to his gracis page Claude stratoun thre elnis paris blak to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xiiij s

Item, August 13th, by my lord governor’s special command, for his grace’s page, Claude Stratoun, 3 ells of Paris black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 14s.

Item tua elnis blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne vij s Summa—xiiij s

Item, 2 ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 7s; total: 14s.

Item v quartaris blak to be him hois wt tua pair of schankis price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be hose with two pairs of legs for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item 10 elne price—

Item, ells price,

Item for lynnyng þe hois? and for making of þame—

Item, for lining the hose? and for making of them,

…

…

Item xiiijto august be my lord gouernoris command to his gracis page Claude stratoun to by him sarkis in kirkcaldy—iiij s [212]

Item, August 14th, by my lord governor’s command, to his grace’s page, Claude Stratoun, to buy himself shirts in Kirkcaldy, 4s.

January 1546/47

 10

Item tua pair of schone to his graces page callit Claude—iiij s [261]

Item, two pairs of shoes for his grace’s page called Claude, 4s.

Item vjto Januarii be his graces commande thre elnis unprest blak to be his graces page Claude ane cote price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—v li ij s

Item, January 6th, by his grace’s command, 3 ells of unpressed black to be a coat for his grace’s page Claude, price of each ell 34s; total: £5 2s.

Item v quartaris and ane half of wterfyne to be him hois price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxxviij s vj d

Item, 1⅜ ells of utterfine to be hose for him, price of each ell 28s; total: 38s 6d.

Item to be him ane doublat ix quartaris blak fustiane price of þe elne vj s Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2¼ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 13s 6d.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. Paul’s transcription does not include this or the next line item.

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Item half ane elne of canves to stent þis doublat—x d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to stiffen this doublet, 10d.

Item ane bonet—xvj s [263]

Item, a bonnet, 16s.

February 1546/47 Item for ane pair of schone to Claude my lorde gouernoures page—ij s [271]

Item, for a pair of shoes for Claude, my lord governor’s page, 2s.

May 1547 Item to alexander robertsoun tailȝeour for furnessing of certane necessaris to ane coit of my lord gouernoures ffurnessing of necessaris and making of ane liveray to his graces paige claud as his tiket of compt heir present to schaw beris—iij li xiij s vj d [309]

Item, to Alexander Robertson, tailor, for furnishing of certain necessities for a coat of my lord governor’s, furnishing of necessities and making of a livery for his grace’s page, Claude, as his ticket of account here present to show bears out, £3 13s 6d.

June 1547 Item to þe page claud to by schone—ij s [311]

Item, to the page, Claude, to buy shoes, 2s.

August 1547 Item for ane pair of hois ane doublat of canves and tuay pair of schankis of hois to Claude my lorde gouernoures page—xxiiij s [326]

Item, for a pair of hose, a doublet of canvas and two pairs of legs of hose for Claude, my lord governor’s page, 24s.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande tua elnis demygrane to be cote and hois to my lorde gouernoures page Claude pryce of þe elne xxviij s Summa—lvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, 2 ells of demigrain to be coat and hose for my lord governor’s page Claude, price of each ell 28s; total: 56s.

Item to be him ane doublat x quartaris fustiane pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, to be a doublet for him, 2½ ells of fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item to be him ane cloke thre elnis vnprest blak pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xiiij s

Item, to be a cloak for him, 3 ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 14s.

Item ane bonet to him—xvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 16s.

Item for lyning to his clathis—xx s

Item, for lining for his clothes, 20s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for making of þame—viij s [369]

Item, to Archibald Dewar for making of them, 8s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 33

Item to Claude to by schone—v s [372]

Item, to Claude to buy shoes, 5s.

April 1548 Item to claud my lord gouernoures page to be gevin to þe tailȝeour that he wes restand awand him for making of his claytis and necessaris þairto—xxx s [374]

Item, for Claude, my lord governor’s page, to be given to the tailor what was still owed to him for making of his clothes and necessities thereto, 30s.

April 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris special command deliuerit to claude stratoun sone to monsur mullingis v elnis frenche blak to be hyme ane cloik and ane coit price of þe elne xl s Summa—x li

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to Claude Stratoun, son to Monsieur Mullings, 5 ells of French black to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £10.

Item vij quarteris blak satin to bordour þis coit and cloik price of þe elne xl s Summa— iij li x s

Item, 1¾ ells of black satin to border this coat and cloak, price of each ell 40s; total: £3 10s.

Item tway vnce of styking silk to þe samin price of þe vnce ix s Summa—xviij s

Item, 2 ounces of sewing silk for the same, price of each ounce 9s; total: 18s.

Item tway elnis bukcrame to lyne þis coit price of þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of buckram to line this coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe samyn price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item xj quarteris satin to be hym ane dowblet price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, 2¾ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item xj quarteris lyning fustyane to þe samyn price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xj s

Item, 2¾ ells of lining fustian for the same, price of each ell 4s; total: 11s.

Item for stenting canves to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for stiffening canvas for the same, 3s.

Item for buttonis to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for buttons for the same, 3s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng of myllane tobe hyme hois price þairof—xxxviij s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for him, price thereof 38s.

Item ane elne of taffiteis of foure thredis to lyne þe samyn price þairof—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta of four threads to line the same, price thereof 16s.

Item for clayt to lyne þe samyn—v s

Item, for cloth to line the same, 5s.

Item ane welwett bonet to hym—xl s [710]

Item, a velvet bonnet for him, 40s.

5 3 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

March 1552/53 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande deliuerrit to Claude stratoun to be him ane cloke and ane cote foure elnis & ane quartar claith of þe seill of Rowane þe elne iij li Summa—xij li xv s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Claude Stratoun to be a cloak and a coat for him, 4¼ ells of cloth of the seal of Rouen, each ell £3; total: £12 15s.

Item xj quartaris sating to be him ane doublat þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, 2¾ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item vj quartaris sating to bordour þis cloke and cote þe elne xl s Summa—iij li

Item, 1½ ells of satin to border this cloak and coat, each ell 40s; total: £3.

Item ane elne stemmyng of myllane to be him ane pair of hois—xxxvj s

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for him, 36s.

Item ane elne taffateis to lyne þe same—xvj s

Item, an ell of taffeta to line the same, 16s.

Item ane elne small canves to stent þis doublat—iij s

Item, an ell of fine canvas to stiffen this doublet, 3s.

Item iij elnis fustiane to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of fustian to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item ane welwote bonet—xxxvj s [800]

Item, a velvet bonnet, 36s.

David Hamilton of Bothwell (General Servant) This David was son of James Hamilton of Bothwell and brother to John Hamilton of Bothwell (see p. 000).11 He seems to have run errands for the Regent, making payments for marts12 and, if David Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh is the same person, also to lead refiners.13 He received only three items, all of middling- to low-quality materials. April 1550 Item be his graces speall command to his /g/ seruitor dauid hammyltoune in boithwell vj qrtaris and ane half Inglis pyle gray to be him ane coit price of þe elne xxij s—xxxix s

 11

Item, by his grace’s special command to his grace’s servant, David Hamilton of Bothwell, 1⅝ ells of English pile gray to be a coat for him, price of each ell 22s; [total:] 39s.14

Hamilton, History, 233. Marts was a term used to mean beef-cows or oxen raised for slaughter. DSL, s.v. “Mart.”  13 Paul, Accounts, 9:132, 10:206.  14 The total should be 35s 9d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 24s instead of 22s.  12



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 3 5

Item xj quartaris blak fusteane to be him ane doublet þe elne ix s smma—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item ane bonet to him—xviij s [549]

Item, a bonnet for him, 18s.

Henry Dempstar (Groom of the Chamber) Like his fellow grooms of the chamber, Henry was dressed fairly cheaply, even when the household was dressed in mourning for the death of Marie de Guise’s father. In some cases, the treasury did not bother with assigning specific fabric to him but instead just gave him a relatively low lump sum to spend on clothing. He must have had some other source of clothing, because over seven years passed between his first and second grants in the regency Accounts. He had served the late King James V as well and, during the last year of his reign, was granted clothing in June 1542.15 January 1542/43 Item gevin to malcolm gourlaw for lynyng and making of þair saidis claithis and for lynyng and making of ane coit hois and dowblet to henry dempster—iiij li vij s iiij d [8]

Item, given to Malcolm Gourlay for lining and making of their said clothes and for lining and making of a coat, hose, and doublet for Henry Dempster; £4 7s 4d.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father.

 15

Item to be cotis and hois to Kyntaille and henry Dempstar seruandes of my lorde gouernoures chalmer vj elnis blak þe elne xxiiij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, to be coats and hose for Kintaill and Henry Dempstar, servants of my lord governor’s chamber, 6 ells of black, each ell 24s; total: £7 4s.

…

…

Item for thre bonnettis to Alexander hammiltoun Kyntaill and dempstar price of þe peis xx s Summa—iij li [576]

Item, for three bonnets for Alexander Hamilton, Kintaill, and Dempstar, price of each piece 20s; total: £3.

Item viij elnis gray to be kyntale dempstar and Thome towchis lyninges to thair cotis price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 8 ells of gray to be Kintaill, Dempstar, and Tom Teuch’s linings for their coats, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 36s.

Item for making of kyntaill and dempstarris cote and hois—xvj s [583]

Item, for making of Kintaill and Dempstar’s coat and hose, 16s.

Paul, Accounts, 8:84–85.

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January 1551/52 Item be his grace speciale command to henry dempstartoun and kyntaill gromys of his graces chalmer to by þame claithis with—xij li [689]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Henry Dempstar and Kintaill, grooms of his grace’s chamber, to buy themselves clothes with, £12.

December 1552 Item xxo Decembris be his grace command to henry dempstar and kyntaill gromes of his chalmer to by þame clathis with—xij li [779]

Item, December 20th, by his grace’s command, to Henry Dempstar and Kintaill, grooms of his chamber, to buy themselves clothes with, £12.

James Hamilton of Orbiston (Groom of the Chamber, etc.) This James (also designated as “of Kilbrachmont,” “of Rouchbank,” and “of Landhirdmestoun”),16 was a brother of Arthur, David, and John, who were also the Regent’s servants and are listed elsewhere in this chapter. Their father Gavin Hamilton of Orbiston had ties to Arran and Arran’s father.17 Although in March 1547/48, James is identified as a “chamber child” of the Regent, he was by no means a child at that time, as he had already served in battle in 1544. He was certainly concerned with the wardrobe, as he is noted purchasing and receiving items of clothing and accessories. In May 1548 he accompanied the Earl’s eldest son on his journey to France, and by 1551 he was in charge of the Regent’s Duchy of Châtellerault there.18 Even as a “chamber child” he was dressed in a far finer fashion than his fellow grooms, perhaps due to his loftier birth, his maturity, or his abilities. His doublet was of satin, his cloak and hose were of good-quality wool, and his hose were drawn with silk taffeta. March 1547/48

 16

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces chalmer cheild James hammiltoun of Orbistoun xj quartaris fyne blak sating to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s chamber child, James Hamilton of Orbiston, 2¾ ells of fine black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5 10s.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Hamilton, History, 511. Ibid., 640.  18 Ibid.  17



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 37

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote pryce of þe pece xiiij s Summa—xxviij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 14s; total: 28s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak to be him stokes of hois pryce of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item for schankes to þe said hois—xx s j d ob

Item, for legs for the said hose, 20s 1½d.

Item to him to by lyning to þe said doublat & hois—xxxvj s ix d

Item, for him to buy lining for the said doublet and hose, 36s 9d.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furthe þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, 32s.

Item for making of þir claythis and buttounis—xxvj s [360]

Item, for making of these clothes and buttons, 26s.

May 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to my said maisterris seruand James hammiltoun in orbistoun fyve elnis & ane half of fyne pareis blak to be him ane cote and ane cloke price of þe elne fourtye tua schillingis Summa—xj li xj s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for my said Master’s servant, James Hamilton of Orbiston, 5½ ells of fine Paris black to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £11 11s.

Item tua elnis and ane half of welwote to begarye þe samyn price of þe elne iiij li Summa—x li [380]

Item, 2½ ells of velvet to trim the same, price of each ell £4; total: £10.

John Kintaill (Groom of the Chamber) John Kintaill was known by his surname, probably in an effort to distinguish between the many Johns serving the household. Although the fabrics granted to him were as cheap and the lump sums as small as those of several of the other grooms, he received more clothing more often than the rest of them. There does not seem to have been any effort to give the grooms matching outfits, although Alexander Hamilton received a color de roy coat, fustian doublet, and gray hose in March 1547/48 and Kintaill an almost identical set of clothing nine months later. Grants to the grooms were sporadic, with few instances of two of them receiving grants in the same month.

5 3 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

December 1544 Item þe xix day of December be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to ane boy of his chalmer callit kintaill In compositoun of ane liveray contenit In þe said precept—iiij li [107]

Item, the 19th day of December, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to a boy of his chamber called Kintaill, in composition of a livery contained in the said precept, £4.

January 1544/45 Item þe ix day of January to kintale ane of þe childer of my lord gouernoris chalmer be his gracis precept direct to by him clathis—19 li [110]

Item, the 9th day of January, to Kintaill, one of the children of my lord governor’s chamber, by his grace’s precept direct to buy himself clothes, £.

January 1545/46

 19

Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept & spetiall command to Jhonne Kintaill vj quarteris20 elnis of pyle gray to be him ane cote price of þe elne xviij s Summa—xxvij s

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Kintaill 1½ ells of pile gray to be a coat for him, price of each ell 18s; total: 27s.

Item v quarteris elnis Canves to be him ane doublat price of þe elne v s Summa—vj s iiij d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 5s; total: 6s 4d.21

Item vj quarteris elnis quhite to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne vj s Summa—ix s

Item, 1½ ells of white to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 6s; total: 9s.

Item for ane blak bonet to him—xx s

Item, for a black bonnet for him, 20s.

Item for making and lyning of þe said claythis —xx s [182]

Item, for making and lining of the said clothes, 20s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged. It looks like there is a ½ here, but that would make the total incorrect. There are amendments in a different ink where the amount, type, and cost per ell of the fabric are written, so this line item may not be as originally written. There are also amendments in the following lines, especially where the ink has faded, so all of these are a bit suspect.  21 The total should be 6s 3d.  20



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 39

May 1547 Item be my lorde gouernourres precept and spetiall commande to ane boy of his graces chalmer, callit kintaill for foure elnis russate to be him ane side cote price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to a boy of his grace’s chamber called Kintaill for 4 ells of russet to be a long coat for him, price of each ell 18s; total: £3 12s.

Item v quartaris gray stemmyng to be him hois price of þe elne xv s Summa—xviij s ix d

Item, 1¼ ells of gray stemming to be hose for him, price of each ell 15s; total: 18s 9d.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, price 16s.

Item for lynyng and making of þir clathis— xxij s [308]

Item, for lining and making of these clothes, 22s.

December 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to ane boy of his gracis chalmer callit kyntaill tua elnis and ane half color de roy to be him ane coit price of þe elne xx s Summa—l s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for a boy of his grace’s chamber called Kintaill, 2½ ells of color de roy to be a coat for him, price of each ell 20s; total: 50s.

Item xj quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxij s

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 22s.

Item vj quartaris gray to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 1½ ells of gray to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 14s; total: 21s.

Item ane bonet to him—xvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 16s.

Item lyninges to his hois and doublat—xiij s

Item, linings for his hose and doublet, 13s.

Item stenting to his doublet—ij s

Item, stiffening for his doublet, 2s.

Item making of his clathis—xij s [422]

Item, making of his clothes, 12s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be cotis and hois to Kyntaille and henry Dempstar seruandes of my lorde gouernoures chalmer vj elnis blak þe elne xxiiij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, to be coats and hose for Kintaill and Henry Dempstar, servants of my lord governor’s chamber, 6 ells of black, each ell 24s; total: £7 4s.

…

…

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Item for thre bonnettis to Alexander hammiltoun Kyntaill and dempstar price of þe peis xx s Summa—iij li [576]

Item, for three bonnets for Alexander Hamilton, Kyntaill, and Dempstar, price of each piece 20s; total: £3.

Item viij elnis gray to be kyntale dempstar and Thome towchis lyninges to thair cotis price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxvj s

Item, 8 ells of gray to be Kintaill, Dempstar, and Tom Teuch’s linings for their coats, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 36s.

Item for making of kyntaill and dempstarris cote and hois—xvj s [583]

Item, for making of Kintaill and Dempstar’s coat and hose, 16s.

January 1551/52 Item be his grace speciale command to henry dempstartoun and kyntaill gromys of his graces chalmer to by þame claithis with—xij li [689]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Henry Dempstar and Kintaill, grooms of his grace’s chamber, to buy themselves clothes with, £12.

December 1552 Item xxo Decembris be his grace command to henry dempstar and kyntaill gromes of his chalmer to by þame clathis with—xij li [779]

Item, December 20th, by his grace’s command, to Henry Dempstar and Kintaill, grooms of his chamber, to buy themselves clothes with, £12.

Sir John Spittell (Chaplain) Sir John had known the Regent for many years and had been the vicar at Hamilton when Arran was a child.22 Although he was a churchman, the clothing he was given via the Accounts was secular in nature. The number of pieces was small, but the respect in which Arran held him is clear in the fine quality of the clothing he granted to Sir John. December 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis seruand Schir Jhonne spittell to be him ane goun vj elnis paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—xij li [173]

 22

NRS GD254/215.

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s servant Sir John Spittell to be a gown for him, 6 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £12.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 4 1

December 1546 Item to Schir Jhonne spittall my lord gouernouris chaiplane þat restit awin him of ane precept thre elnis pareis blak price of þe elne iij li Summa—ix li

Item, to Sir John Spitall, my lord governor’s chaplain, that was still owed to him from a precept, 3 ells of Paris black, price of each ell £3; total: £9.

Item tua elnis and ane half sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane elne of blak to be him hois price xxxvj s

Item, an ell of black to be hose for him, price 36s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [243]

Item, a bonnet for him, 24s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote to Schir Jhonne Spittell wt ane hude foure elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—viij li viij s [571]

Item, to be a coat with a hood for Sir John Spittell, 4 ells of the same black [as James Dalyell], price of each ell 42s; total: £8 8s.

Malcolm Gourlay (Servant of the Wardrobe and Tailor) Malcolm, also known as Mack, served the late King James V in more than one capacity, but his primary role seems to have been as a tailor to the household. While he did not provide clothing for the king, Gourlay made many pieces for lackeys, grooms in the stable, pages, the fool, the falconer, thirty bedesmen (poor men who were given alms to pray for the king), and others as well as soft furnishings for the king.23 Arran seems to have kept him on in the same capacity at first,24 but as time went on also adopted him as a servant in his chamber and wardrobe and delegated some travel logistics to him, especially the conveyance of coffers and the (sometimes temporary) hanging of tapestries in various properties.25 Malcolm also maintained pavilions.26 The Regent clearly trusted him, as he sent Malcolm to convey the royal sword of honor, crown, and scepter to the parliament in Edinburgh.27 The last reference to him in the regency Accounts was in 1550. Oddly, Malcolm received very few clothes via the regency Accounts. His first grant of a lump sum was as meager as those of the grooms of the chamber and is less than he was paid to make and line a set of coat, doublet, and hose for Henry Dempstar [8, above]. His  23

Paul, Accounts, 8:25, 27, 28, 38, 42, 44–45, 56–57, 63, 69–73, 83, 96. Ibid., 8:164, and records 8, 16, 32, 44, 45, 116, 135.  25 Ibid., 8:180, 246, 279, 291, 335, 373, 385, 386, 433, 439, 457, 462, 466, 478–79, and many other examples in vol. 9. See also records 206, 210, 582.  26 Ibid., 9:197, 225.  27 Ibid., 9:409.  24

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other grant, several years later, was rather more generous, although the fabrics were still relatively cheap. January 1544/45 Item þe xviij day of Januar be my lord gouernoris precept to malcom gourlaw to by him certane clathis—iiij li [111]

Item, the 18th day of January, by my lord governor’s precept, to Malcolm Gourlay to buy himself certain clothes, £4.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces seruitour Malcolme gourlay fyve elnis color de roy to be him ane cote and cloke pryce of þe elne xxij s Summa—v li x d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant Malcolm Gourlay, 5 ells of color de roy to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 22s; total: £5 10d.

Item xj quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne x s Summa—xxvij s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 10s; total: 27s 6d.

Item ane bonet to him—xxviij s

Item, a bonnet for him, 28s.

Item to him ane elne of Inglische gray stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois pryce—xv s [366]

Item, for him an ell of English gray stemming to be a pair of hose for him, price 15s.

Robert Gourlay (Groom of the Chamber and of the Wardrobe) Robert does not appear in the Accounts until March 1546/47, when he received his first grant of clothing. Two months later, he purchased items for the Regent’s chamber and thereafter bought items for his wardrobe, prepared his lodgings when he moved to a new location, traveled to bring clothing to him, was given items to maintain the wardrobe, and took delivery of materials from which Arran’s and his wife’s and daughters’ clothing would be made.28 He apparently traveled enough on the Regent’s business that it made sense to buy him a horse.29 In January 1551/52, he was referred to as the Keeper of the Wardrobe, and he dealt not just with clothing and accessories but also with bed linens and sometimes vestments.30 Robert served through the end of the regency. Even early in his tenure, the clothing given to him was of a better grade than the other “chamber children” (and he was referred to in this fashion as late as 1550), although he

 28

Ibid., 9:74, 140, 164, 242, 260, and others. See also records 329, 332, 342, 383, 412, 420, 445, and many others throughout the regency.  29 Ibid., 9:214.  30 NRS E21/44/46r, E21/44/62v, E21/44/52v.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 43

received fewer grants than his colleagues. Most of the fabrics given to him were of good quality aside from one piece of cheap fustian for a doublet. March 1546/47 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Robert gourlay tua elnis and ane half of freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iiij li xv s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Robert Gourlay 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £4 15s.

Item to him ane elne of pareis blak to be him hois price—xl s

Item, to him an ell of Paris black to be hose for him, price 40s.

Item tua skynnes to be him ane coit price—xx s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price 20s.

Item thre elnis fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxvij s

Item, 3 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 27s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xx s

Item, a bonnet for him, price 20s.

Item for furnesing and making of þir clathis—xij s [291]

Item, for furnishing and making of these clothes, 12s.

February 1548/49 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Robert gourlay to be him ane cote and ane cloke foure elnis and ane half freis price of þe elne xl s Summa—ix li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Robert Gourlay to be a coat and a cloak for him, 4½ ells of frieze, price of each ell 40s; total: £9.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, 22s 6d.

Item ane elne of blak to be him hois—xl s [445]

Item, an ell of black to be hose for him, 40s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cloke to Robert gourlay his graces chalmer cheild thre elnis and ane half of þe samyn blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vij li vij s [572]

 31

Item, to be a cloak for Robert Gourlay, his grace’s chamber child, 3½ ells of the same31 black, price of each ell 42s; total: £7 7s.

This was the same fabric as that given to James Dalyell and James Spitell.

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Sir Robert Polwarth (Priest) Sir Robert, either master almoner and priest, or priest to the master almoner, may have been related to Sir John Polwarth, who was Master of Work at Linlithgow.32 April 1543 Item gevin to schir robert polwert maister elimosinar preist at my lord gouernouris command to by him claithis w t—xiij li vj s viij d [36]

Item, given to Sir Robert Polwarth, master almoner priest, at my lord governor’s command, to buy himself clothes with, £13 6s 8d.

Thomas Hamilton (Page) Thomas was the last page that Arran employed during his regency. His predecessor Arthur was twice given coats and cloaks bordered in red and white velvet along with a few black and gray pieces, but Arthur’s final outfit of scarlet bordered in white velvet was a harbinger of the clothing purchased for Thomas’s tenure. Arran’s final page tended to have outfits of solid red, sometimes bordered with white velvet, although he also received a few pieces of solid black and solid white clothing and, unusually for a page, a leather coat. In comparison to the value of the clothing he was given, a month’s wages for Thomas in December 1551 was 30s.33 This was far less than any of the outfits he wore, which ranged from £3 11s 4d (71.3s) to £17 6s 6d (346.5s).34 October 1551

 32

Item xxijo octobris deliuerit to archebald deware tobe ane paire of hois lyning and uter half to thomas hammyltoun my lord gouernouris page ane elne braid inglis reid price þairof—xxviij s

Item, October 22nd, delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a pair of hose lining, and outer half, to Thomas Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, an ell of broad English red, price thereof 28s.

Item for making of þe samyn—iiij s

Item, for making of the same, 4s.

Item to þe said page to by hyme spurris schone and vþeris small necessaris witht— v s [654]

Item, to the said page to buy himself spurs, shoes, and other small necessities with, 5s.

Paul, Accounts, 9:436. NRS E21/44/39v.  34 An “outfit” is considered to include at least coat, hose, and doublet.  33



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 45

January 1551/52 Item penultimo Januarii deliuerit to archebald dewar to be thre pair of hois to my lord gouernouris page thomas hammlytoun thre elnis braid inglis reid price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the second to last day of January, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be three pairs of hose for my lord governor’s page Thomas Hamilton, 3 ells of broad English red, price of each ell 28s; total: £4 4s.

Item tway elnis fustiane tobe hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne viij s Summa— xvj s

Item, 2 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item canves to lyne þe samyn—vj s

Item, canvas to line the same, 6s.

Item for making of þir hois and dowblett— xij s

Item, for making of these hose and doublet, 12s.

Item ane reid bonet to him price þairof— xij s

Item, a red bonnet for him, price thereof 12s.

Item tway dosane poynttis to hyme—iiij s [688]

Item, 24 points for him, 4s.

March 1551/52 Item secundo marcii deliuerit to archebald deware thre elnis fyne londoune reid to be ane cloik and ane coit to my lord gouernouris page price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, March 2nd, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 3 ells of fine London red to be a cloak and coat for my lord governor’s page, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

Item vij quarteris fyne quhite welwett to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—vj li xj s iij d

Item, 1¾ ells of fine white velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £6 11s 3d.

Item ane vnce of reid silk to put on þe bordouris price þairof—ix s

Item, an ounce of red silk to put [sew] on the borders, price thereof 9s.

Item thre elnis reid bukcrame to lyne þe coit price of þe elne iij s Summa—ix s

Item, 3 ells of red buckram to line the coat, price of each ell 3s; total: 9s.

Item tway dosane buttonis to þe samyn price of þe dosane ij s Summa—iiij s

Item, 24 buttons for the same, price of each dozen 2s; total: 4s.

Item to archebald dewar for making of þis cloik and coit—xx s [701]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of this coat and cloak, 20s.

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April 1552 Item for ane reid bonet to thomas hammyltoune page to my lord gouernour—xij s [714]

Item, for a red bonnet for Thomas Hamilton, page to my lord governor, 12s.

June 1552 Item Quarto Junij coft tway burdeous skynnis tobe ane coit to my lord gouernouris page price of þe peice viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, June 4th, bought two Bordeaux skins to be a coat for my lord governor’s page, price of each piece 8s; total: 16s.

Item ane eln inglis reid to be hois vter half and lyning price þairof—xxx s

Item, an ell of English red to be hose, outer half and lining, price thereof 30s.

Item tway elne and ane quarter of canwes to be hyme ane dowblet vter half and lyning price of þe elne iiij s Summa—ix s

Item, 2¼ ells of canvas to be a doublet for him, outer half and lining, price of each ell 4s; total: 9s.

Item for stenting canves to þe samyn—iij s

Item, for stiffening canvas for the same, 3s.

Item for buttonis to his coit—xvj d

Item, for buttons for his coat, 16d.

Item for poynttis to his hois—ij s

Item, for points for his hose, 2s.

Item for making of þis coit dowblett hois and for ane pair of schone to hyme—x s [730]

Item, for making of this coat, doublet, hose and for a pair of shoes for him, 10s.

September 1552 Item for ane dowblett of quhite fustiane and ane paire of quhite hois furnist and maid to my lord gouernouris page—xxx s [747]

Item, for a doublet of white fustian and a pair of white hose furnished and made for my lord governor’s page, 30s.

October 1552 Item quarto octobris thre elnis and ane quarter braid reid deliuerit to archebald dewar tobe ane coit cloik and hois to my lord gouernouris page price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—v li xvij s

Item, October 4th, 3¼ ells of broad red delivered to Archibald Dewar to be a coat, cloak, and hose for my lord governor’s page, price of each ell 36s; total: £5 17s.

Item vij quarteris quhite welwett to bordour þe samyn price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— vj li ij s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of white velvet to border the same, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £6 2s 6d.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 47

Item ane vnce and ane half of silk to styk on þe bordouris price of þe vnce viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ounces of silk to sew on the borders, price of each ounce 8s; total: 12s.

Item tway elnis gray to lyne þe coit and hois price of þe elne v s Summa—x s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the coat and hose, price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

Item thre quarteris taffiteis to þir hois price þairof—xij s

Item, ¾ ell of taffeta for these hose, price thereof 12s.

Item tway elnis fustyane tobe hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne viij s Summa— xvj s

Item, 2 ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item stenting canves and lynyng to þe samyn—vij s

Item, stiffening canvas and lining for the same, 7s.

Item for pointtis to his hois—ij s

Item, for points for his hose, 2s.

Item for buttonis to his coit—iij s

Item, for buttons for his coat, 3s.

Item to þe said archebald for making of þe cloik coit dowblett and hois—xxviij s

Item, to the said Archibald for making of the cloak, coat, doublet, and hose, 28s.

Item for ane bonett to hyme—xij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 12s.

Item ane elne of canves to turs þir claithis in to lynlytqw price þairof—ijs

Item, an ell of canvas to carry these clothes in to Linlithgow, price thereof 2s.

Item to ane boy that caryit þame þair—iij s [754]

Item, to a boy that carried them there, 3s.

November 1552 Item for ane felt hatt to thomas hammyltoune my lord gouernouris page—vj s viij d [760]

Item, for a felt hat for Thomas Hamilton, my lord governor’s page, 6s 8d.

March 1552/53 Item xxixo marcii deliuerrit to archiebald dewar iij elnis & ane half braid reid to be cloke cote and hois to my lorde gouernoures page þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, March 29th, delivered to Archibald Dewar, 3½ ells of broad red to be cloak, coat, and hose for my lord governor’s page, each ell 36s; total: £6 6s.

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Item vij quartaris quhite welwote to bordour þis cote and cloke þe elne iij li x s Summa—vj li ij s vj d

Item, 1¾ ells of white velvet to border this coat and cloak, each ell £3 10s; total: £6 2s 6d.

Item ane vnce and ane half steking silk to put on þe bordoures on þis clok and cote þe vnce viij s Summa—xij s

Item, 1½ ounces of sewing silk to put [sew] on the borders on this cloak and coat, each ounce 8s; total: 12s.

Item vj quartaris reid bukrame to lyne þe cloke þe elne ij s viij d Summa—iiij s

Item, 1½ ells of red buckram to line the cloak, each ell 2s 8d; total: 4s.

Item ane dosoun of buttonis to þis cote—ij s

Item, 12 buttons for this coat, 2s.

Item to archiebald dewar for making of þis cote cloke and hois—xx s

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of this coat, cloak, and hose, 20s.

Item j ds pointtis to his hois—ij s

Item, 12 points for his hose, 2s.

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s [801]

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

April 1553 Item xiiijto Aprilis tua elnis blak fustiane deliuerrit to archibald dewar to be ane doublat to my lorde gouernoures page þe elne viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, April 14th, 2 ells of black fustian, delivered to Archibald Dewar, to be a doublet for my lord governor’s page, each ell 8s; total: 16s.

Item for canves to stent þe same—xx d

Item, for canvas to stiffen the same, 20d.

Item tua elnis quhite to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s Summa—viij s

Item, 2 ells of white to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 8s.

Item for making of þis doublat—iij s [812]

Item, for making of this doublet, 3s.

July 1553 Item an elne braid reid to be ane pair of hois to my Lorde gouernoures page price— xxviij s

Item, an ell of broad red, to be a pair of hose for my lord governor’s page, price 28s.

Item ane dosoun of pointtis to þe same— xviij d

Item, 12 points for the same, 18d.

Item to Archiebald dewar for making of þame—iij s [824]

Item, to Archibald Dewar, for making of them, 3s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 49

August 1553 Item for ane pair of hois of quhyte to my Lorde gouernoures page—xvij s

Item, for a pair of hose of white for my lord governor’s page, 17s.

Item ane elne of canves to be him ane pair of sockis—ij s viij d [834]

Item, an ell of canvas to be a pair of socks for him, 2s 8d.

September 1553 Item to williame quhyte cordinar for buittis and schone furnist to my Lorde gouernour and his grace page be þe space of þis compte—xiiij li xvj s [851]

Item, to William White, cordwainer, for boots and shoes furnished to my lord governor and his grace’s page during the period covered by this account, £14 16s.

William Hamilton of Colmskeith (General Servant) Although he was entrusted with delivery of letters for the Regent in 154535 and 1546,36 William was not labeled “messenger” as so many others were. He was probably the second son of Marion Cunningham and Alexander Hamilton of Cambuskeith (Colmskeith).37 Another entry from May 1544 suggests that he was in a position of responsibility, as he was reimbursed for money spent on Arran’s house painter and wages paid to other servants.38 In addition, the Regent paid £50 in ransom to redeem him.39 He was given a good amount of money to buy clothing; £20 would buy a few high-quality pieces or a good number of middling items. December 1545 Item þe samyn day to william hammiltoun of colmeskeith for compositioun of ane precept obtenit be him at my lord gouernoris hand to by him certane clathis—xx li [176]

 35

Paul, Accounts, 8:403, 409. Ibid., 9:29.  37 Hamilton, History, 213.  38 Paul, Accounts, 8:289.  39 Ibid., 9:354.  36

Item, the same day, to William Hamilton of Cambuskeith, for composition of a precept obtained by him at my lord governor’s hand to buy himself certain clothes, £20.

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TR E A SURY A ND SE CR ETA R I A L Andrew Henderson (Clerk of Expenses) This may be the same Andrew Henderson who was charged with delivering a very large sum of money from Edinburgh to Coldingham in 1558, by which time he was working for Queen Mary. His only grant of clothing was two fairly standard items given in the midst of the distribution of mourning to Arran’s household after the death of Marie de Guise’s father. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote and theis of hois to Andro hendersoun clerk of expensis thre elnis and ane naill vnprest blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vj li viij s vij d ob

Item, to be a coat and thighs of hose for Andrew Henderson, Clerk of Expenses, 31⁄16 ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: £6 8s 7½d.

…

…

Item half ane elne stemmyng to Andro hendersoun to be schankis to his hois—xxij s [576]

Item, ½ ell of stemming for Andrew Henderson, to be legs for his hose, 22s.

Master David Hamilton (Treasurer) Master David was described as Treasurer of Dunkeld (which was both a town and a bishopric), and the regency Accounts refer several times to his service to the Regent.40 The Bishop of Dunkeld,41 Arran’s half-brother John (who was also Lord Treasurer for most of the regency), was a key player during this time, so it is likely that Master David was one of his subordinates whom he put at the service of his half-brother the Regent. Because Master David is described as a kinsman of the Regent, he may be Master David Hamilton, rector of Thankertoun, as he seems to have had a fairly close connection to the Regent’s family.42 He received a mixture of cheap, middling, and fairly expensive fabrics for coats, cloaks, doublets, and hose, though the eight ells of good French black he was given in March 1546/47 suggest the possibility of a gown.

 40

Ibid., 8:387, 412, 9:26. Although in 1549 he became Archbishop of St. Andrews. Paul, Peerage, 4:362.  42 Hamilton, History, 848.  41



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 5 1

May 1545 Item þe xiij day of maii be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis seruitour and kynnisman Maister dauid hammilton foure elnis doubill worsat to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxij s Summa—iiij li viij s

Item, the 13th day of May, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s servant and kinsman, Master David Hamilton, 4 ells of double worsted to be a coat for him, price of each ell 22s; total: £4 8s.

Item tua ½ elnis of þe samyn worsat to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxij s Summa—lv s

Item, 2½ ells of the same worsted to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 22s; total: 55s.

Item v quarterris blak to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item for lynnyng and stenting to þe said cote and doublat and hois & making þairof—xlv s

Item, for lining and stiffening for the said coat and doublet and hose and making thereof, 45s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxvj s [142]

Item, for a bonnet for him 26s.

March 1546/47 Item xxmo marcii be my lorde gouernoures precept to maister Dauid hammiltoun furnist be Jhonne achisoune viij elnis franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—xvj li

Item, March 20th, by my lord governor’s precept, to Master David Hamilton, furnished by John Acheson, 8 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £16.

Item fyve elnis & ane half of serge price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li viij s

Item, 5½ ells of serge, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 8s.

Item ane elne of twesane to be him hois price—xxxvj s

Item, an ell of twesane to be hose for him, price 36s.

Item thre elnis lylis worsate to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xlij s [288]

Item, 3 ells of Lille worsted to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 14s; total: 42s.

December 1548 Item to maister James lindesey for thre elnis vnprest blak to be ane cloik to dauid hammyltoune þe elne xl s Summa—vj li [425]

Item, to Master James Lindsay for 3 ells of unpressed black to be a cloak for David Hamilton, each ell 40s; total: £6.

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Item to /m/ Dauid hammiltoun be his graces spetiall commande to by him clathis—xx li [426]

Item, to Master David Hamilton by his grace’s special command to buy himself clothes, £20.

January 1548/49 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall command to his gracis seruitour Dauid hammiltoun to be him ane cloke thre elnis & a half parice blake price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant David Hamilton to be a cloak for him, 3½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item v quarteris blak welwote to begarye þis cloke price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—v li iij s vj d ob [431]

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to trim this cloak, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £5 3s 6½d.43

Gilbert Crawford (Messenger) Gilbert appears only twice in the regency Accounts (unless a gunner of that name in Glasgow was the same person). He received payment for a messenger run,44 and he was given a small sum to buy clothes. Even the ill-clad grooms of the chamber received more. Only one other messenger was given money for clothes in the regency Accounts (Robert Simpson, below), and his grant was £10. August 1550 Item be his graces precept to gilbert crauffurd to by clathis wt—iij li [609]

Item, by his grace’s precept, to Gilbert Crawford to buy clothes with, £3.

John Wallace (Writer in the Exchequer) John supplied and was reimbursed for both paper and wax (presumably for sealing documents) on some occasions.45 He was given respectable sums with which to buy clothing as well as expensive wool and black velvet for a Spanish cloak. The only other recipients of Spanish cloaks in the regency Accounts were the Regent himself and one of his sons. March 1542/43 Item gevin at his grace command to Johnne wallace to by him clathis witht for seruice done be him—x li [26]  43

The total should be £4 13s 9d. Paul, Accounts, 9:370.  45 Ibid., 8:223, 240.  44

Item, given at his grace’s command to John Wallace to buy clothes for himself for service done by him, £10.



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June 1543 Item deliuerit to be ane spanȝe cloik to Johnne wallace at my lord gouernouris speaill command and precept thre elnis thre quarteris frenche blak, price of þe elne l s Summa—ix li vij s vj d

Item, delivered to be a Spanish cloak for John Wallace at my lord governor’s special command and precept, 3¾ ells of French black, price of each ell 50s; total: £9 7s 6d.

Item deliuerit to him to begary þe samin v quarteris ½ quarter blak veluet, price of þe elne iij li Summa—iiij li ij s vj d [46]

Item, delivered to him to trim the same, 1⅜ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3; total: £4 2s 6d.

May?46 1546 Item to Jhonne wallace writer for his lauboris and liveray claytis and seruice done in my Lord gouernoris effaris be þe spane of thre ȝeris bypast—xxx li [216]

Item, to John Wallace, writer, for his labors and livery clothes and service done in my lord governor’s affairs during the span of the past three years, £30.

April 1549 Item for certane clathis to Jhonne walliace writer—xvj li [469]

Item, for certain clothes for John Wallace, writer, £16.

Neil Lang (Writer) Neil Lang’s yearly fee was £20 in 1546, equal to the master tailor Archibald Dewar and the physician Andrew Mylne. The entries for the writers unsurprisingly have a fuller description of the services rendered, whether from personal familiarity with the details or a wish to amplify the importance of their labors. Whereas Archibald’s line simply says, “for his fee of this past Whitsunday,” Neil’s elaborates that he is being paid for “his fee and pension and daily labors in my lord governor’s own affairs, that is, for the Whitsunday term just past, as his gift here present to show proves.”47 By 1550 he was Sir Neil, and his fee was £40 yearly as “scribe in the office of secretary” (possibly the Regent’s personal secretary?), while Archibald Dewar’s was still £20 and John Wallace’s was £5 (above).48

 46

This line item appears in the Fees and Pensions section for 1546. These payments were granted semiannually, annually, or every two or three years. The month is not given, but there are several payments for the Whitsunday term, which would have ended in May.  47 Paul, Accounts, 8:487, my translation. It is more difficult to compare writers to writers. The line item above Neil Lang’s payment was to another writer, Adam Brown, for £10, but it seems to have been for a specific service rather than a yearly fee. A few lines down from that, John Wallace was paid £30 for three years’ fee plus livery clothes [see 216, above].  48 Paul, Accounts, 9:414, 448. Confusingly, in 1554 Neil was once more paid £20 for a yearly fee, but in 1555 it was £40 again (10:243, 303).

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The value of each grant of clothing given to Neil was near or over his quarterly fee. Although he was apparently of a class to wear cloaks rather than gowns, he received fabrics of excellent quality, including some silks. October 1544 Item þe xxij day of october be my lord gouernoris precept to neill Laing to by him ane bonet—xxij s [95]

Item, the 22nd day of October, by my lord governor’s precept, to Neil Lang to buy himself a bonnet, 22s.

April 1545 Item the secund day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to neill Laing his gracis writter thre elnis and ane half of paris blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne lv s Summa—ix li xij s vj d

Item, the 2nd day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Neil Lang, his grace’s writer, 3½ ells of Paris black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 55s; total: £9 12s 6d.

Item ane elne and quarter blak welwot to bordour þe said cloke price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—iiij li vij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of black velvet to border the said cloak, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £4 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis ane half and ane quarter blak sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xlij s Summa—v li xv s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £5 15s 6d.

Item thre quarteris and ane half of franche blak to be him hois price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xxix s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of French black to be hose for him, price of each ell 34s; total: 29s 3d.49

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe saiddis hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa— xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the said hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [130]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 24s.

April 1546 Item þe thrid day of aprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Neill Layng his gracis wrytar tua elnis & ane half spanȝe freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iiij li xv s

 49

The total should be 29s 9d.

Item, the 3rd day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Neil Lang, his grace’s writer, 2½ ells of Spanish frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £4 15s.



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Item tua elnis of þe samyn freis to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa— iij li xvj s

Item, 2 ells of the same frieze to be a coat for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £3 16s.

Item tua elnis and ane half wt ane quartar of sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Item ane elne of paris blak to be him hois price—xxxvj s

Item, an ell of Paris black to be hose for him, price 36s.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þis hois—xvj s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, 16s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxviij s [197]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 28s.

February 1548/49 Item be his graces commande to his grace scrybe Neill Laing to by him clathis—xxij li [448]

Item, by his grace’s command, to his grace’s scribe Neil Lang to buy himself clothes, £22.

Master Nicholas Robeson Payments to Master Robeson tend to be sandwiched between those of “writers” and others in the treasury office,50 so it is likely that he had a post of some responsibility there. His title and the quality and types of clothing that he was given indicate that he was perhaps in a management position. His gown, coats, and cloaks were of fine wool, with the coats and cloaks bordered in velvet, and his doublets were always of black velvet. In fact, his clothing in the regency Accounts was entirely in black. Although he was not granted hose to complete the outfit, the pieces he received certainly showed his status. December 1550

 50

Item be my lord governouris spetiale command coft tobe ane dowblet to maister Nicholl robisone thre elnis black veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—x li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, bought to be a doublet for Master Nicholas Robeson, 3 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £10 16s.

Item tobe him ane coit and cloke vj elnis pareis blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—xij li

Item, to be a coat and cloak for him, 6 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £12.

Item to bordour þis coit and cloke twa elnis ane quarter blak veluet price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—viij li ij s [629]

Item, to border this coat and cloak, 2¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £8 2s.

Paul, Accounts, 10:133, 215.

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December 1551 Item be his grace spetiale command deliuerit to maister nichole robesoun tobe hyme ane cloik and ane coit vj elnis paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—xij li

Item, by his grace’s special command, delivered to master Nicholas Robeson to be a cloak and a coat for him, 6 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £12.

Item tobe hyme ane dowblett and to bordour þis cloik and coit v elnis ane quarter blak welwett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xviij li vij s vj d [669]

Item, to be a doublet for him, and to border this cloak and coat, 5¼ ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £18 7s 6d.

April 1552 Item be his grace speciale command deliuerit to maister nichole robesoune vj elnis frenche blak to be hym ane gowne price of þe elne xl s Summa—xij li

Item, by his grace’s special command, delivered to Master Nicholas Robeson 6 ells of French black to be a gown for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £12.

Item thre elnis blak welvett tobe hym ane dowblett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s [711]

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

November 1552 Item to maister nichole robesoune vj elnis paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—xij li

Item, to Master Nicholas Robesoun, 6 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £12.

Item thre elnis blak welwet tobe hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— x li x s [760]

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

August 1553 Item be his graces precept to /M/ nycoll robesoun vj elnis blak to be him ane cloke and cote þe elne xxxvj s Summa—x li xvj s

Item, by his grace’s precept, to Master Nicholas Robeson, 6 ells of black to be a cloak and coat for him, each ell 36s; total: £10 16s.

Item iij elnis blak welwote to begarye þe samyn þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s [835]

Item, 3 ells of black velvet to trim the same, each ell £3 10 s; total: £10 10s.



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Patrick Baxter (Clerk of Expenses) This entry for clothing is the only appearance of Patrick Baxter in the regency Accounts. The Paris black for his cloak, coat, and hose was of good quality, as was his bonnet, although the fustian for his doublet was quite cheap. December 1545 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to patrik baxster clerk of expensis, vj elnis and ane half paris blak to be him ane cloke, a cote and ane pair of hois price of þe elne xl s Summa—xiij li

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Patrick Baxter, clerk of expenses, 6½ ells of Paris black to be a cloak, a coat, and a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £13.

Item tua elnis thre quarteris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne þairof viij s Summa—xxij s

Item, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell thereof 8s; total: 22s.

Item for ane blak bonet to him price—xxvj s [177]

Item, for a black bonnet for him, price 26s.

Robert Simpson (Messenger) Robert Simpson and John Skyrling (a gunner) spent time in England in both July and August 1553 acting as legal surety (or the human equivalent of bail money)51 for Scottish men who were charged with crimes. They were well paid for this service. In July they had the substantial sum of £35 “for their expenses,”52 and when they were sent back in August, £20 plus £10 each for clothing. Robert had previously worked as a messenger for the Regent.53 August 1553

 51

Item xxjo Augusti be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to robart symsoun and Jhone skyrling returnand agane to Ingland to ly In pleage for certane Liddisdale men vpoun quhome þair wes billis fylit afore þe wardane—xx li

Item, August 21st, by my lord governor’s special command, to Robert Simpson and John Skyrling, returned again to England to lie in pledge for certain Liddisdale men upon whom there were bills filed before the Warden, £20.

Item mair to þe said robart and Jhone to by þame clathis—xx li [831]

Item, also to the said Robert and John to buy themselves clothes, £20.

OED, s.v. “pledge, n.” Paul, Accounts, 10:188.  53 Ibid., 10:110.  52

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William Colville (Comptroller) Arran’s comptroller was also first Abbot and then Commendator of Culross.54 The Comptroller took charge of those branches of revenue and expenditure not designated to the Treasurer. These included the revenue from Crown property, the burgh mails, and customs fees, which were used to pay for the royal (or regency) household excluding miscellaneous expenses (clothing and gifts of clothing fell within miscellaneous expenses) and the sessions held to audit all accounts connected to revenues and expenditures of the state.55 May 1550 Item at my lorde gouernoures commande for ane hat to þe comptrollar—xlvj s [559]

Item, at my lord governor’s command, for a hat for the comptroller, 46s.

FO OD PR EPA R ATION A ND SE RVICE Andrew Reid (Servant in the Pantry) The servants of the pantry stored and distributed the bread for the household. The pantry might also contain utensils and dishes. Andrew’s coat and bonnet, given after the death of Marie de Guise’s father, represent his only mention in the regency Accounts. The fabric for the coat was relatively expensive and shows Arran’s wish to make a statement rather than Andrew’s status. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item vij quartar of þis same blak to Andro reid seruande In þe pantre to be him ane cote price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li x s

Item, 1¾ ells of this same56 black to Andrew Reid, servant in the pantry, to be a coat for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £3 10s.

…

…

Item ane bonet to Andro reid—xx s [576]

Item, a bonnet for Andrew Reid, 20s.

Archibald Hamilton of Raploch (Master of the Pantry) Archibald was younger brother to Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse as well as Master of the Regent’s Pantry, and he also did other business for Arran. Archibald, though the third son, succeeded to his father’s lands and title.57  54

Ibid., 8:474, 9:251; Knox, Works, 2:598–99. Dickson, Accounts, 1:xiv, xviii, xxii.  56 This was the same fabric as was granted to Lowry in the previous line item.  57 Archibald’s elder brothers, James and Thomas, both resigned their claim to the inheritance. James did  55



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Archibald seems to have preferred leather coats, which account for two of the three he received (the third was black wool because it was part of the household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father). Although his doublets were made of cheap fustian, his cloaks were quite fine. December 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris precept to his gracis seruitoure Archibald hammiltoun ane cloke of thre elnis ½ paris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, for his grace’s servant, Archibald Hamilton, a cloak of 3½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item an elne of vterrisfyne to be him hois price—xxij s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for him, price 22s.

Item tua skynnis to be him ane cloke cote price—xxx s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price 30s.

Item tua elnis thre quarteris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.58

Item ane bonet to him price xxvj s viij d [179]

Item, a bonnet for him, price 26s 8d.

March 1547/48 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Archiebald hammiltoun Maister of his graces pantre ten quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Archibald Hamilton, master of his grace’s pantry, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest black to be him stokis of hois price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ of an ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item for schankes to þir hois—xx s j d ob

Item, for legs to these hose, 20s 1½d.

Item tua elnis taffate to þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for these hose, 32s.

Item for lyning to þir hois and doublet— xxij s vj d

Item, for lining for these hose and doublet, 22s 6d.

so because his wife was an heiress, but Thomas’s reasons are obscure. Hamilton, History, 733–34. The total should be 22s. The color of the ink and the awkward spacing suggest that the price per ell and the total were added later.

 58

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Item for tua skynnes to be him ane cote— xxxij s

Item, for 2 skins to be a coat for him, 32s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li [363]

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item fyve elnis and ane quartar of þe same blak to be cote and cloke to Archiebald hammiltoun of þe pantre price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, 5¼ ells of the same black to be a coat and cloak for Archibald Hamilton of the pantry, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.59

…

…

Item to be stokis of hois to þir foure thre elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li xviij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for these four, 3 ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 18s.

Item tua elnis stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li viij s [565]

Item, 2 ells of stemming to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: £4 8s.

A Baker This anonymous baker demonstrates the close connection between the quality and quantity of mourning clothes and the status of the recipient. Although many received fabrics finer than their normal grants for the occasion, the mourning fabrics were carefully graded to match the social hierarchy. The baker is part of an entry also including Archibald Preston, deputy to the Master of Household (below), Archibald Hamilton of Raploch, Master of the Pantry (above), and Master Robert Auchmoutye, steward (below). These four men each received fabric for a coat and cloak as well as upper and nether hose. None of these fabrics fell below 44s per ell, which while not the most expensive was in the upper reaches for wool and was in fact pricier than most silks.

 59

This was the same black as was given to Archibald Preston. The total should be £12 1s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s rather than 46s.



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May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane dule cote and ane cloke to Archiebald prestoun depute to þe maister of houshald fyve elnis and ane quartar vnprest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for Archibald Preston, deputy to the Master of Household, 5¼ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.60

Item fyve elnis and ane quartar of þe same blak to be cote and cloke to Archiebald hammiltoun of þe pantre price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, 5¼ ells of the same black to be a coat and cloak for Archibald Hamilton of the pantry, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

Item to /m/ Robert auchmowtye stewart to be him cote and cloke fyve elnis & ane quartar of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to Master Robert Auchmoutye, steward, to be a coat and cloak for him, 5¼ ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

Item to his graces seruitour […] baxter fyve elnis and ane quartar of þis same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to his grace’s servant, […], baker, 5¼ ells of this same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.

Item to be stokis of hois to þir foure thre elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li xviij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for these four, 3 ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 18s.

Item tua elnis stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li viij s [565]

Item, 2 ells of stemming to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: £4 8s.

Bogill (Servant in the Larder) Bogill had a position of some trust in that he bought items for the larder and was reimbursed for them.61 In contrast to the baker above, however, Bogill was only granted a single coat, and that given for the general household mourning when many others received full outfits. At 38s per ell, this was still quite a good-quality wool, but the difference in quality and quantity shows the variation in station between him and the group of four that included the baker.

 60

The total for this and the next three items should be £12 1s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s rather than 46s.  61 Paul, Accounts, 9:300.

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May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item thre elnis quartar and half quartar blak to be dule cotis to Bogill and Turnour seruandes In þe laidnar and Aill sellar price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—vj li viij s iij d [575]

Item, 3⅜ ells of black to be mourning coats for Bogill and Turner, servants in the larder and ale cellar, price of each ell 38s; total: £6 8s 3d.

David Stewart (Sewar and/or Master of Household) Although the Dictionary of the Scots Language defines sewar as one responsible for serving at table,62 this post could be a ceremonial one in the royal household, characterized also as a cupbearer.63 Such an attendant might be of high birth or a close confidant of the ruler. David Stewart was referred to as a sewar in May 1550, but by December, either he or another of the same name was Master of Household.64 His hypothetical status was supported by the expensive gift of velvets, taffeta, and fine wool he received in April 1550. His mourning outfit of the next month was less impressive but still quite respectable and was nearly identical to the outfits listed elsewhere in this chapter that were given to the unnamed baker, Archibald Preston (deputy to the Master of Household), Archibald Hamilton of Raploch (Master of the Pantry), and Master Robert Auchmoutye (Steward). April 1550 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and speall command to be ane doublet to his graces seruitour dad stewart thre elnis tanny weluot price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—x li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to be a doublet for his grace’s servant David Stewart, 3 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £10 16s.

Item fywe elnis thre quartaris franche blak to be him ane coit and ane cloik price of þe elne xxxiiij s smma—ix li xv s vj d

Item, 5¾ ells of French black to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £9 15s 6d.

Item ane bonet to him price—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, price 26s.

Item ane elne and half ane quartar fyne stemmet of melane to be him ane pair of hois price—xlix s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of fine stemming of Milan to be a pair of hose for him, price 49s 6d.

DSL, s.v. “Sewar, Sewer, n.1.” Hamilton, History, 266.  64 Paul, Accounts, 9:464.  62  63



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 63

Item tua elnis and ane quartar blak weluot to begary his coit and cloik þe elne iij li x s—vij li xvij s vj d

Item, 2¼ ells of black velvet to decorate his coat and cloak, each ell £3 10s; [total:] £7 17s 6d.

Item tua taffateis foure thredis to his hois—xxxij s [546]

Item, 2 ells of taffeta of four threads for his hose, 32s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item þe samyn day to be ane dule cote & ane cloke to Dauid stewart sewar fyve elnis and ane half vn prest blak price of the elne xlij s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, the same day, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for David Stewart, sewar, 5½ ells of pressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: £11 11s.

…

…

Item to be theis of hois to Dauid stewart thre quartaris & a nale vnprest blak þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxiiij s j ob

Item, to be thighs of hose for David Stewart, 13⁄16 ell of unpressed black, each ell 42s; total: 34s 1½d.65

Item half elne stemmyng to be schankis to Dauid stewartis hois price—xxij s [562]

Item, ½ ell of stemming to be legs for David Stewart’s hose, price 22s.

James Dalyell [Dalziel] (Servant in the Cuphouse) The cuphouse was a place to store cups and other dishes. In April 1546, James took delivery of two cup cases, probably made to store elaborately decorated cups safely.66 The good quality of the wool he was granted suggests that he was in the higher end of the household. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father.

 65

Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to James Dalȝell of þe cophous to be him ane cloke thre elnis and ane half blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vij li vij s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to James Dalyell of the cuphouse to be a cloak for him, 3½ ells of black, price of each ell 42s; total: £7 7s.

Item sex quartaris and ane half blak to be him ane cote price of þe elne xlij s Summa—iij li viij s iij d [570]

Item, 1⅝ ells of black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £3 8s 3d.

This total is written in a particularly messy fashion, but it looks like the clerk wrote “xxxiiij s ob” and then, realizing his mistake, added a “j” after it with a line pointing to the space between the “s” and the “ob” to indicate where it belonged.  66 Paul, Accounts, 8:451.

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James Duncan (Cook) A James Duncan was a groom of the kitchen in King James V’s household,67 and this may be the same person. His grant of April 1547 included some expensive velvet and some middling wools, while that of October 1549, which was for some reason crossed out in the manuscript, consisted of a good-quality bonnet and a coat length of surprisingly cheap English cloth. April 1547 Item ixno Aprilis be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to James duncaine cuke xj quartarres blak welwote to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—ix li xij s vj d

Item, April 9th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Duncan, cook, 2¾ ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £9 12s 6d.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane elne of blak to be him ane pair of hois price—xxxvj s

Item, an ell of black to be a pair of hose for him, price 36s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [300]

Item, a bonnet for him, 24s.

October 1549 Item to James Duncane of his precept that restit him of auld thre elnis and ane half Inglische claith to be him ane cote price of þe elne vj s viij d Summa—xxiij s iiij d

Item, to James Duncan from his precept still owed to him from before, 3½ ells of English cloth to be a coat for him, price of each ell 6s 8d; total: 23s 4d.

Item to him ane bonet lynnit wt welwote— xxviij s [504]

Item, a bonnet lined with velvet for him, 28s.

John Mont (Master Cook) The Regent had at least three different master cooks, though seemingly only one at any given time. John Mont was the first of these and had been a cook in the late King James V’s household.68 The fabrics he was granted were of very good though not exceptional quality. He did, however, receive trim for a few items of clothing, including the usual velvet but also passementerie for a cloak. John Mont was the only recipient of passementerie outside the Regent’s family circle.  67

Ibid., 8:101. Ibid., 8:102.

 68



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 6 5

December 1544 Item þe xvj day of December be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Johne mont maister cuke for his Lyveray xj quarteris spanȝe freis price of þe elne þairof xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

Item, the 16th day of December, by my lord governor’s precept and special command to John Mont, master cook, for his livery, 2¾ ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell thereof 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Item for ane elne of wterfyne to be him ane pair of hois—xxxij s

Item, for an ell of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, 32s.

Item xj quarteris blak sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxvij s Summa—v li xxj d

Item, 2¾ ells of black satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 37s; total: £5 0s 21d.

Item for ane bonet—xx s

Item, for a bonnet, 20s.

Item for x elnis pasmentis to his cloke—xx s

Item, for 10 ells of passementerie for his cloak, 20s.

Item twa elnis taffate to his hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for his hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for tua skynnis and ane half to be him ane cote price thairof—xxxij s vj d [105]

Item, for two and a half skins to be a coat for him, price thereof 32s 6d.

December 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris precept to Jhonne mont his gracis maister cuke thre elnis & a half blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—v li xij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, for John Mont, his grace’s master cook, 3½ ells of black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £5 12s.

Item ane elne of welwot to bordour þis cloke price—iij li x s

Item, an ell of velvet to border this cloak, price £3 10s.

Item xj quarteris satinge to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li iiij s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 4s 6d.

Item ane elne & a qrter vterrisfyne to be him hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa— xl s

Item, 1¼ ells of utterfine to be hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 40s.

Item ane blak bonet to him price—xxvj s [178]

Item, a black bonnet for him, price 26s.

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Lawrence Criste (Master Cook) Lawrence was the third of Arran’s three master cooks, and unfortunately his grant of a sum of money reveals no details of the clothing he wore. The £10 he received, however, was less than the totals of the clothing grants given to either of the other master cooks. June 1552 Item xijo Junii be his grace speciale command to Laurence Criste his maister cuke to by hyme clathis witht—x li [732]

Item, June 12th, by his grace’s special command, to Lawrence Criste, his master cook, to buy himself clothes with, £10.

Lowry (Master Cook) As Arran’s second master cook, Lowry was given wools nearly comparable to his predecessor John Mont’s, but without the velvet or passementerie to trim them. Additionally, his doublet was of cheap fustian rather than satin, and his hose had no taffeta for pullings-out as John’s did in 1544. Overall, the quality of clothing given to the master cooks declined over the course of the regency. March 1549/50 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept & spetiall commande to his graces maister cuke Lowre xj quartaris freis to be him ane cloke þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li xix s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s master cook, Lowry, 2¾ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, each ell 36s; total: £4 19s.

Item tua elnis color de roy to be him ane cote þe elne xxviij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 2 ells of color de roy to be a coat for him, each ell 28s; total: 56s.

Item xj quartaris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat þe elne ix s Summa—xxiiij s ix d

Item, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 9s; total: 24s 9d.

Item thre quartaris franche blak to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, ¾ ell of French black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 32s; total: 24s.

…

…

Item ane bonet to my lordis cuke—xviij s [539]

Item, a bonnet for my lord’s cook, 18s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote to þe maister cuke vij quartaris blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—iij li x s [576]

Item, to be a coat for the master cook, 1¾ ells of black, price of each ell 40s; total: £3 10s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 67

Patrick Marshall (Baker) Patrick had been a baker under King James V.69 The clothing in his first regency grant was all wool, ranging from cheap at 8s per ell to good quality at 36s per ell. His mourning coat in 1550 represented just a small step up at 38s per ell and was comparable to the quality of fabric given to much of the rest of the household. March 1547/48 Item to patrik merschell baxtar be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande fyve elnis and ane half color de roy to be him ane cote and ane cloke pryce of þe elne xxij s Summa—vj li xij d

Item, to Patrick Marshall, baker, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 5½ ells of color de roy to be a coat and a cloak for him, price of each ell 22s; total: £6 0s 12d.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item v quartaris blak to be him ane pair of hois pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xlv s [365]

Item, 1¼ ells of black to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: 45s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote to patrik merschell baxter vij quarter prest blak price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—iij li vj s vj d [577]

Item, to be a coat for Patrick Marshall, baker, 1¾ ells of pressed black, price of each ell 38s; total: £3 6s 6d.

Robert Henderson (Master Butcher) Athough what livery clothes he bought is unknown, Robert received the same amount of money in two consecutive years. He also received that exact sum when working as a butcher for King James V in 1542, which was his first year of employment at the court.70 1552 Item to Robert hendersoun master fleshour for his lyveray clathis in þis ȝere—xiij li vj s viij d [769]

 69

Ibid., 8:116. Ibid., 8:102.

 70

Item, to Robert Henderson, master butcher, for his livery clothes in this year, £13 6s 8d.

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1553 Item to Robert hennerstoun maister fleshor for his livray clathis þis ȝeir—xiij li vj s viij d [854]

Item, to Robert Henderson, master butcher, for his livery clothes this year, £13 6s 8d.

Thomas Teuch (Servant in the Cuphouse) Thomas had a surname subject to unusually varied spellings in the Accounts. He had served the late king,71 and either he or someone of the same name had to be ransomed twice by the Regent after being captured on the battlefield (the second time in the disastrous Battle of Pinkie Cleugh).72 Although he received more items of clothing than many in the lower levels of the household hierarchy—possibly due to his long term of service—the fabrics given for them were fairly cheap. Even his bonnets demonstrated the economy practiced when purchasing items for the menial staff. At 15s to 20s each, they were on the low end of the middle range. April 1543 Item deliuerit to be ane coit and hois to thomas tect twa elnis thre qrteris scottis gray, price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa— xxxvj s viij d

Item, delivered to be a coat and hose for Thomas Teuch 2¾ ells of Scottish gray, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: 36s 8d.

Item gevin for xj quarteris quhite fustiane to be him ane dowblet, price of þe elne v s Summa—xiij s ix d

Item, given for 2¾ ells of white fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 5s; total: 13s 9d.

Item deliuerit to him ane bonnet, price— xv s [35]

Item, delivered to him a bonnet, price 15s.

January 1544/45 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command gevin to ane seruand of þe cophous callit thomas tewch to by him clathis—xl s [110]

 71

Ibid., 8:46, 65. Ibid., 9:125, 149.

 72

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, given to a servant of the cuphouse called Thomas Teuch to buy himself clothes, 40s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 5 6 9

March 1547/48 Item be his graces precept and spetiall commande to Thomas tewch tua elnis and ane half color de roy to be ane cote pryce of þe elne xxij s Summa—lv s

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, to Thomas Teuch, 2½ ells of color de roy to be a coat, price of each ell 22s; total: 55s.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item vj quartaris gray to be him hois pryce of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 1½ ells of gray to be hose for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 24s.

Item ane bonet to him—xvj s [364]

Item, a bonnet for him, 16s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote to Thome teuche seruande at þe copburde vij quartarris blak price of þe elne xxiiij s Summa—xlij s

Item, to be a coat for Tom Teuch, servant at the cupboard, 1¾ ells of black, price of each ell 24s; total: 42s.

…

…

Item ane bonet to Thome teuch—xx s [576]

Item, a bonnet to Tom Teuch, 20s.

Item viij elnis gray to be kyntale dempstar and Thome towchis lyninges to thair cotis price of þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xxxvj s [583]

Item, 8 ells of gray to be Kintaill, Dempstar, and Tom Teuch’s linings for their coats, price of each ell 4s 6d; total: 36s.

September 1553 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande to Thomas tewch to by him ane doublat & ane pair of hois—xxxvj s vj d [849]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to Thomas Teuch to buy a doublet and a pair of hose for him, 36s 6d.

Turner (Servant in the Ale Cellar) This mourning coat is Turner’s only mention in the regency Accounts. Although his status would seem equivalent to Thomas Teuch (above), Turner received a much finer fabric for his coat, suggesting either that the ale cellar was more prestigious than the cuphouse or that Turner was better born than Thomas. It is hard to know what significance (if any) was attached to some servants being referred to by one name instead of two. They tend to be among those of lower status, but it could also be that the clerks writing the Accounts only gave as much information as necessary to

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identify any given person. Or it is possible that these individuals were commonly known by a single name (i.e., they were generally called by their surname). May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item thre elnis quartar and half quartar blak to be dule cotis to Bogill and Turnour seruandes In þe laidnar and Aill sellar price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—vj li viij s iij d [575]

Item, 3⅜ ells of black to be mourning coats for Bogill and Turner, servants in the larder and ale cellar, price of each ell 38s; total: £6 8s 3d.

HOUSEHOLD MA NAGE ME NT Archibald Preston (Deputy to the Master of Household) Like several others of the household staff, Archibald is only mentioned in the regency Accounts in connection with the mourning clothes given out at the death of the dowager queen’s father. He was granted all of the publicly visible garments of an outfit (the doublet was not included), and the fabrics given to him were of very high quality. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father.

 73

Item to be ane dule cote and ane cloke to Archiebald prestoun depute to þe maister of houshald fyve elnis and ane quartar vnprest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for Archibald Preston, deputy to the Master of Household, 5¼ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.73

…

…

Item to be stokis of hois to þir foure thre elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li xviij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for these four, 3 ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 18s.

Item tua elnis stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li viij s [565]

Item, 2 ells of stemming to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: £4 8s.

The total should be £12 1s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s rather than 46s.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 57 1

A Boy (Servant in the Stables) This anonymous boy was given charge of a valuable horse brought from France by Monsieur Lorges Montgomery (possibly Gabriel, comte de Montgomery, seigneur de Lorges), who also brought artillery, munitions, and a company of retainers including trumpeters.74 The boy may have had some public duties as a groom, as he was given red and white display livery. This particular livery was composed of cheap fabrics and accessories, but it was certainly particolored and heraldic in nature and so presumably meant to be seen. June 1545 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to ane boy þt kepit þe gret hors broucht furth of france be monseiur Lorge montgomery to his grace, tua elnis reid cairsay to be ane part of ane cote to him price—xiiij s

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s special command, for a boy that kept the great horse brought forth from France by Monsieur Lorges Montgomery for his grace, 2 ells of red kersey to be a part of a coat for him, price 14s.

Item thre elnis and ane half scottis quhyte to be þe other half of his cote and hois price of þe elne vj s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3½ ells of Scottish white to be the other half of his coat and hose, price of each ell 6s; total: 21s.

Item tua elnis canves to be him ane doublat price—vij s

Item, 2 ells of canvas to be a doublet for him, price 7s.

Item tua elnis and ane half of canves to lyne his cote and doublat price of þe elne xx d Summa—iiij s ij d

Item, 2½ ells canvas to line his coat and doublet, price of each ell 20d; total: 4s 2d.

Item to by him bonet and schone—xij s

Item, to buy himself bonnet and shoes, 12s.

Item for making of his clathis—viij s [150]

Item, for making of his clothes, 8s.

Bryde (Servant in the Stables) It is not clear how many items of clothing Bryde bought with his grant of £4, but as a possible basis for comparison, the boy who cared for the horse from France (above) was given a total of £3 6s 2d in livery. December 1545 Item to bryde kepar of þe maister of erranis hors for compositioun of ane precept granttit to him to by him clathis—iiij li [176]  74

Paul, Accounts, 8:377, 383, 386, 387, 389, 392, 395, 396.

Item, to Bryde, keeper of the Master of Arran’s horse, for composition of a precept granted to him to buy himself clothes, £4.

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David Hamilton of Orbiston (Servant in the Stables) This David was brother to Arthur, John, and James, also servants of the Regent and listed elsewhere in this section.75 David’s duties included transporting horses,76 purchasing tack,77 and others seemingly not related to his work in the stables.78 The fabrics given to him were of quite good quality and included velvet for his doublets and taffeta pullings-out for his hose. His mourning coat and cloak were of wool, but it was quite expensive wool, suggesting that either he was of good birth or he had a position of some responsibility in the household (or both). March 1547/48

 75

Item be his graces precept and spetiall commande to dauid hammiltoun of orbistoun xj quartaris welwote to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—ix li xvij s vj d

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, for David Hamilton of Orbiston, 2¾ ells of velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £9 17s 6d.79

Item thre quartaris and ane half vnprest blak to be him stokes of hois price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxxiij s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of unpressed black to be stocks of hose for him, price of each ell 38s; total: 33s 3d.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furthe þir hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item to be schankes to his hois—xx s j d ob

Item, to be legs to his hose, 20s 1½d.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote price of þe skyn xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, two skins to be a coat for him, price of each skin 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item ane blak bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a black bonnet for him, 26s.

Item to him to by lyning to his doublat and hois—xxxvj s ix d [359]

Item, for him to buy80 lining for his doublet and hose, 36s 9d.

Hamilton, History, 640. Paul, Accounts, 9:125.  77 Ibid., 9:260.  78 Ibid., 8:310, 10:184, 190.  79 The total should be £9 12s 6d.  80 The y in “by” looks like it was written over the top of an e.  76



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 573

April 1550 Item be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiall command to his graces seruitour dauid hammyltoune of orbistoun tua elnis thre quartaris gray sating to be him ane doublet þe elne xlv s smma—vj li iij s ix d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant, David Hamilton of Orbiston, 2¾ ells of gray satin to be a doublet for him, each ell 45s; total: £6 3s 9d.

Item thre elnis and half ane quartar of gray taffate to lyne þis doublet þe elne xvj s—l s [548]

Item, 3⅛ ells of gray taffeta to line this doublet, each ell 16s; [total:] 50s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item be his graces spetiall commande to be cotis and clokis to Dauid hammiltoun and Jhonne hammiltoun brether of ormistoun xj elnis and ane quartar vnprest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xxv li xvij s vj d

Item, by his grace’s special command, to be coats and cloaks for David Hamilton and John Hamilton, brothers of Orbiston, 11¼ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 46s; total: £25 17s 6d.

Item tua bonettis to þame—xxviij s [564]

Item, two bonnets for them, 28s.

Elizabeth Murray Elizabeth evidently performed some sort of special service to assist in the banquet for Marie de Guise’s brother Claude de Lorraine, who was visiting from France. Her service was apparently exemplary, as she was granted very expensive wool and top-quality velvet. This may or may not be the same person as Bessie Murray the seamstress. A purse of 45s was designated for Bessie directly after money for Barbara to put in her purse at her departure to “the northland” in March 1548/49 after her marriage.81 This may suggest that Bessie went with her, but if she did, she returned. Bessie continued to sew for the Regent at least through November 1552. June 1550

 81

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Elizabeth murray for hir seruice maid þe tyme of þe banket to þe quennis brother foure elnis and ane half fyne pareis blak price of þe elne xlviij s Summa—ix li xij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Murray for her service made at the time of the banquet for the queen’s brother, 4½ ells of fine Paris black, price of each ell 48s; total: £9 12s.82

Item vj quartaris fyne black welwote to hir price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li [594]

Item, 1½ ells of fine black velvet for her, price of each ell £4; total: £6.

Paul, Accounts, 9:289. The total should be £10 16s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 4 instead of 4½

 82

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John Corbet (Keeper of the Dogs) John had been, amongst others, a keeper of the late king’s dogs as well.83 His was apparently a lowly position, as his bonnet and the fabrics for his clothing were of relatively poor quality. He does not appear in the regency Accounts after this entry. April 1543 Item deliuerit to be ane coit and hois to Johne corbet at his grace command thre elnis ½ elne pilye gray, price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—xlvj s viij d

Item, delivered to be a coat and hose for John Corbet at his grace’s command, 3½ ells of pile gray, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: 46s 8d.

Item deliuerit to be him ane dowblet xj quarteris fustiane, price of þe elne vj s Summa—xvj s vj d

Item, delivered to be a doublet for him, 2¾ ells of fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 16s 6d.

Item deliuerit to him ane bonet, price þairof—xv s [37]

Item, delivered to him a bonnet, price thereof 15s.

John Frog (Saddler) Although he was only granted clothing once, John frequently provided saddles and related items to the Regent from 1548 to 1553.84 His cloak was of relatively expensive wool and trimmed with average-quality velvet. August 1552 Item xviijo augusti be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command deliuerit to Johnne frog his graces sadillar thre elnis and ane half paris blak tobe hyme ane cloik price of þe elne xlij s Summa—vij li vij s

Item, August 18th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to John Frog, his grace’s saddler, 3½ ells of Paris black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 42s; total: £7 7 s.

Item ane elne of welwet to bordour þe samyn price þairof—iij li xv s [742]

Item, an ell of velvet to border the same, price thereof £3 15s.

or if the price per ell were 42s 8d instead of 48s. The price per ell has been crossed out in the manuscript and replaced with “xlviij.” It looks like this was done after the entry had been finished, as the new price was crammed into an inadequate space before “Summa.” The original price per ell might have been 42s, but it was not 42s 8d.  83 Paul, Accounts, 7:464.  84 Ibid., 9:234, 10:208, and numerous entries in between.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 575

John Hamilton (Porter) John does not rate many mentions in the regency Accounts, but in addition to a small grant of £6 for clothing, he was given a horse worth £20.85 June 1548 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande to Jhonne hammiltoun portar to by him clathis—vj li [384]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to John Hamilton, porter, to buy himself clothes, £6.

John Hamilton of Bothwell John was brother to Thomas and David Hamilton of Bothwell (see p. 000) and son and heir to James Hamilton of Bothwell.86 He began as a messenger and errand-runner for the Regent,87 but he eventually took on the distribution of wages to other servants88 and, later, shifted to serving Barbara.89 He was granted a respectable sum for clothing for a man of middling rank in 1547, and in 1550 was given good-quality cloth for a coat, cloak, and hose for the household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. April 1547 Item ijdo Aprilis be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Jhonne hammiltoun of Boithwell to by him clathis—x li [299]

Item, April 2nd, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Hamilton of Bothwell to buy himself clothes, £10.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father.

 85

Item to be ane cote and ane cloke to Jhonne hammiltoun of Boithwell fyve elnis and ane quartar prest blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xj li vj d

Item, to be a coat and a cloak for John Hamilton of Bothwell, 5¼ ells of pressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: £11 0s 6d.

Item to be theis of hois to him thre quartarres vnprest blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, to be thighs of hose for him, ¾ ell of unpressed black, price of each ell 42s; total: 31s 6d.

Item to be schankes of hois to him half elne stemmyng of myllane—xxij s [574]

Item, to be legs of hose for him, ½ ell of stemming of Milan, 22s.

Ibid., 9:172. Hamilton, History, 233.  87 Paul, Accounts, 8:284, 409, 413, 9:111.  88 Ibid., 9:138, 337, 353, 361, 395, 443.  89 Ibid., 10:206.  86

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John Hamilton of Orbiston (Master of the Stables) Brother to Arthur, David, and James Hamilton of Orbiston, John was the eldest and heir.90 He was active in the Regent’s service from at least 1545 to 155391 and was Master of Stables from March 1547/48.92 That same month, perhaps not incidentally, he received his first grant of fabric from the Regent. It may have been in recognition of his status as heir to his father’s estate that much of the clothing in the grant was quite rich: black velvet doublet, upper hose, and coat along with taffeta for pullings-out were accompanied by a bonnet of good quality, lower hose, a leather coat, and linings for all. The fabric for the mourning coat and cloak he was given in 1550 was fairly expensive as well. March 1547/48

 90

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces maister of stabill Jhonne hammiltoun of orbistoun foure elnis thre quartaris blak welwote to be him doublet and stokes of hois price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xvj li xij s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for his grace’s master of stable John Hamilton of Orbiston, 4¾ ells of black velvet to be doublet and stocks of hose for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £16 12s 6d.

Item fyve elnis fyne blak welwote to be him ane cote pryce of þe elne iij li xv s Summa— xviij li xv s

Item, 5 ells of fine black velvet to be a coat for him, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £18 15s.

Item tua elnis and ane half freis to be him ane cloke pryce of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furthe his hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth his hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item thre quartaris and ane half stemmyng to be schankes to his hois pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xl s iij d

Item, ⅞ ell of stemming to be legs for his hose, price of each ell 36s; total: 40s 3d.93

Item tua skynnes to be him ane cote price of þe pece xxxiiij s Summa—iij li viij s

Item, 2 skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 34s; total: £3 8s.

Item to lyne þis doublat vij quartarres reid pryce of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xxiiij s vj d

Item, to line this doublet, 1¾ ells of red, price of each ell 14s; total: 24s 6d.

Hamilton, History, 642. Paul, Accounts, 8:428, 10:204.  92 Ibid., 9:157.  93 The total should be 31s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 46s instead of 36s.  91



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 577

Item thre quarteris and ane half of þe samyn to lyne his hois price—xij s iij d

Item, ⅞ of an ell of the same to line his hose, price 12s 3d.

Item foure elnis gray to lyne his cote price of þe elne iij s vj d Summa—xiiij s [358]

Item, 4 ells of gray to line his coat, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 14s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item be his graces spetiall commande to be cotis and clokis to Dauid hammiltoun and Jhonne hammiltoun brether of ormistoun xj elnis and ane quartar vnprest blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xxv li xvij s vj d

Item, by his grace’s special command, to be coats and cloaks for David Hamilton and John Hamilton, brothers of Orbiston, 11¼ ells of unpressed black, price of each ell 46s; total: £25 17s 6d.

Item tua bonettis to þame—xxviij s [564]

Item, two bonnets for them, 28s.

John Ure (Keeper of the Mules) John’s single grant of middling-to-low-quality fabrics probably represented his rank rather neatly. His bonnet was similarly cheap. Unlike some, however, his grant included a sum for lining and making of the clothes. His red, white, and gray garments were probably display livery, indicating that his work was probably in some way publicly visible. June 1543 Item þe viij day of Junii deliuerit to þe said malcolme to be coittis to tempiltoune þt dryvis þe sovme and Johnne vre kep of the mvlettis, twa elnis dimmegrane price of þe elne xxx s and vij quarteris frenche quhite price of þe elne xxvj s viij d Summa—v li vj s viij d

Item, the 8th day of June, delivered to the said Malcolm to be coats for Templeton that drives the packhorse, and John Ure, keeper of the mules, 2 ells of demigrain, price of each ell 30s; and 1¾ ells of French white, price of each ell 26s 8d; total: £5 6s 8d.

Item deliuerit to him to be þame hois, twa elnis scottis gray, price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—xxvj s viij d

Item, delivered to him to be hose for them, 2 ells of Scottish gray, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: 26s 8d.

Item gevin for twa bonettis to þame, price of þe pece xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, given for two bonnets for them, price of each piece 16s; total: 32s.

Item gevin for making of þair saidis claithis and lynyng þairto—xxv s x d [45]

Item, given for making of their said clothes and lining thereto, 25s 10d.

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Master Robert of Sempill (Master of Household) Robert Sempill, heir to the Lordship of Sempill, was married to Isabel Hamilton, daughter of William Hamilton of Sanquhar. Robert became third Lord Sempill in 1552 on the death of his father William, but his tenure as Master of Household ended earlier.94 By the end of 1550, David Stewart had filled that position (see above), probably because Robert had been accused of treason.95 The Master of Household had many administrative duties, one of which was to distribute wages to the servants of the household.96 As might be expected for a person of his rank, he received gowns and coats of fine velvet from the Regent. Although his grant for the household mourning was merely wool, it was of very good quality. December 1547 Item xxijo Decembris be his graces spetiall commande to þe maister of sympill his graces maister houshald to be him ane goun and ane cote xv elnis blak welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—lij li x s [343]

Item, December 22nd, by his grace’s special command, to the Master of Sempill, his grace’s master [of] household, to be a gown and a coat for him, 15 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £52 10s.

June 1549 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces maister of houshald þe maister of sympill to be him ane goun and ane cote xv elnis fyne gray welwote price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—lvj li v s [475]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s Master of Household, the Master of Sempill, to be a gown and a coat for him, 15 ells of fine gray velvet, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £56 5s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father.

 94

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to be ane cote cloke and lyning to hois to þe maister of houshald vj elnis and ane quartar stemmying of myllane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xiij li xiiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to be a coat, cloak, and lining for hose for the master of household, 6¼ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: £13 14s.97

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois—xliiij s [561]

Item, an ell of stemming to be a pair of hose for him, 44s.

Paul, Peerage, 7:536. Paul, Accounts, 9:429, 432. Whatever the outcome of this charge, he did go on to assume his father’s titles and continued to serve Scotland (10:362). For more of his colorful history, see Paul, Peerage, 7:539–43.  96 Paul, Accounts, 9:235.  97 The total should be £13 15s.  95



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 579

Master Robert Auchmoutye (Steward and Master Almoner) The role of the almoner (to give alms to the poor and needy) was clear, but the title “steward” was given to many functions performed within both households and the government structure in Scotland.98 Master Robert seemed mostly occupied with distributing money, as he received a number of payments in recompense for funds spent.99 His only grant of clothing was for the household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father, and it included enough expensive wool to make a coat, cloak, and thighs and legs of hose for him. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to /m/ Robert auchmowtye stewart to be him cote and cloke fyve elnis & ane quartar of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xj li xj s

Item, to Master Robert Auchmoutye, steward, to be a coat and cloak for him, 5¼ ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £11 11s.100

…

…

Item to be stokis of hois to þir foure thre elnis of þe same blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—vj li xviij s

Item, to be stocks of hose for these four, 3 ells of the same black, price of each ell 46s; total: £6 18s.

Item tua elnis stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois þe elne xliiij s Summa—iiij li viij s [565]

Item, 2 ells of stemming to be legs for these hose, each ell 44s; total: £4 8s.

Templeton (Driver) The word soume in the following entry, short for soume-hors, refers to a packhorse and is related to the modern word sumpter.101 Templeton was also referred to as a muleteer and had previously been in service to King James V. During the regency, Templeton and John Ure, keeper of the mules, were given particolored display livery in red, white, and gray, so they must have been visible enough while working to warrant it. Templeton was given red and yellow display livery under the previous regime,102 so it might also have been a traditional gift rather than a practical one. Templeton’s last mention in the regency Accounts was in February 1545/46.103

 98

For examples, see DSL, s.v. “Stewart.” Paul, Accounts, 9:330, 408, 436, 442, 10:129, 211. 100 The total should be £12 1s 6d. The total given would be correct if the price per ell were 44s rather than 46s. 101 DSL, s.v. “Soum, n.3.c”; Cotgrave, Dictionarie, s.v. “Chevaux de somme.” 102 Paul, Accounts, 8:29, 63. 103 Ibid., 8:440.  99

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June 1543 Item þe viij day of Junii deliuerit to þe said malcolme to be coittis to tempiltoune þt dryvis þe sovme and Johnne vre kep of the mvlettis, twa elnis dimmegrane price of þe elne xxx s and vij quarteris frenche quhite price of þe elne xxvj s viij d Summa—v li vj s viij d

Item, the 8th day of June, delivered to the said Malcolm to be coats for Templeton that drives the packhorses, and John Ure, keeper of the mules, 2 ells of demigrain, price of each ell 30s; and 1¾ ells of French white, price of each ell 26s 8d; total: £5 6s 8d.

Item deliuerit to him to be þame hois, twa elnis scottis gray, price of þe elne xiij s iiij d Summa—xxvj s viij d

Item, delivered to be hose for them, 2 ells of Scottish gray, price of each ell 13s 4d; total: 26s 8d.

Item gevin for twa bonettis to þame, price of þe pece xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, given for two bonnets for them, price of each piece 16s; total: 32s.

Item gevin for making of þair saidis claithis and lynyng þairto—xxv s x d [45]

Item, given for making of their said clothes and lining thereto, 25s 10d.

CA STLE S A ND MIL ITA RY Andrew Hamilton (Captain of the Castle of Hamilton) This seems to be the sole entry for clothing for Andrew Hamilton, Captain of Hamilton Castle,104 but there were several people of that name listed in the Accounts, including an Andrew Hamilton who was captain of Dumbarton.105 The clothing assigned was made of relatively expensive fabrics, but it was unusual for a man to receive only a doublet and hose. October 1549

104

Item be my lord gouernour precept and spetiall command to andro hammyltoun capitane of þe castell of hammyltoun thre elnis and ane quartar of blak weluot to be him ane doublet price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xj li vij s vj d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for Andrew Hamilton, captain of the castle of Hamilton, 3¼ ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £11 7s 6d.

Item vj quartaris blak to his hois—liiij s

Item, 1½ ells of black for his hose, 54s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þame—xxxij s [506]

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for them, 32s.

Hamilton, History, 247. Paul, Accounts, 9:541, shows payments to both men happening concurrently.

105



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Sir David Hamilton (Captain of Holyroodhouse) This is Sir David Hamilton of Preston and Fingalton, who was an advisor to the Regent in his dealings with Cardinal Beaton.106 He held several positions during the regency, including Captain and Keeper of Holyroodhouse, Provost of Dumbarton, and Warden of the Middle Marches.107 The lord of Preston listed in 1550 as a master usher might or might not be the same person. Curiously, although Sir David was given fabric for a high-status gown, the cloth for that and the coat and doublet in the same grant were very cheap. The second gift to him, which was a bonnet of good quality, was scratched out in the manuscript. If the recipient of mourning clothes in 1550 was the same person, the quality of those fabrics far exceeded his earlier gift. May 1543 Item þe ferd day of maii deliuerit to be ane gowne to schir dauid hammiltoune vj elnis ½ qrter rowane russet, price of þe elne xix s Summa—v li xviij s ix d

Item, the 3rd day of May, delivered to be a gown for Sir David Hamilton, 6⅛ ells of Rouen russet, price of each ell 19s; total: £5 18s 9d.108

Item deliuerit to be him ane coit vij elnis demyhostage, price of þe elne viij s Summa—lvj s

Item, delivered to be a coat for him, 7 ells of demi-ostage, price of each ell 8s; total: 56s.

Item deliuerit to be ane dowblet to him xj quarteris blak fustiane, price of þe elne vij s Summa—xix s iij d [41]

Item, delivered to be a doublet for him 2¾ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 7s; total: 19s 3d.

October 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command for ane bonet to Schir Dauid hammiltoun—xxiiij s [166]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, for a bonnet for Sir David Hamilton, 24s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to be ane dule cote and ane cloke to þe laird of prestoun maister Ischear foure elnis thre quartaris stemmyng of myllane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—x li ix s [563] 106

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to be a mourning coat and a cloak for the lord of Preston, master usher, 4¾ ells of stemming of Milan, price of each ell 44s; total: £10 9s.

Hamilton, History, 689–90. Paul, Accounts, 8:270, 8:441, 10:168, 10:188. 108 The total should be £5 16s 4½d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 6¼ 107

rather than 6⅛.

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David Rowane (Master Melter) David was first mentioned as a “gunner cannoner” in 1547, but by 1549 he was a master melter and maker of ammunition and by 1550 a gun maker.109 Despite many other payments over the years, he was issued money for livery clothes only once, in 1552. December 1552 Item to Dauid rowane maister meltar to by his lyfray clathis wt agane þis ȝule—xx li [781]

Item, to David Rowane, master melter, to buy his livery clothes with for this Yule, £20.

Duncan Dundas (Captain of the Pioneers) Duncan’s main occupation from at least 1547 was Captain of the Pioneers (in this context, those responsible for the conveyance of large artillery pieces),110 but he also headed up a war band against the English in January 1547/48 and again in August 1548.111 Like many of the military men mentioned in the Accounts, he received only a single grant of money for clothing. November 1547 Item be his graces spetiall commande gevyn to Duncan dundas for his seruice maid In sindrye his grace effaris to by him hors and clething—xliiij li [339]

Item, by his grace’s special command, given to Duncan Dundas for his service made in sundry of his grace’s affairs to buy himself a horse and clothing, £44.

Hans Cochran (Master Gunner) Hans served as master gunner to a succession of regimes, from James V to Mary Stewart112 but was only once granted money for livery clothes. The sum of £20 was fairly common for a certain middling stratum of people, whether civilian or military. December 1543 Item þe xv day of December be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to hannys couchrane gunnar for his lyfray clathis þe sowme of—xx li [66] 109

Item, the 15th day of December, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Hannys Cochran, gunner, for his livery clothes, the sum of £20.

Paul, Accounts, 9:118, 301, 395, 455. Ibid., 9:89, 117, and many other entries. A Duncan Dundas who might have been the same person served as a commissary, or delegate, to a group of Frenchmen in 1545 (8:410–11). 111 Ibid., 9:142, 227, 10:39. 112 Ibid., 8:104, 10:402. 110



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James Hamilton (Constable of Edinburgh Castle) The clerks of the exchequer were quite careful to identify this James Hamilton as a constable in order to distinguish him from the many others of that name. His first mention, in 1548, is his single, somewhat modest grant of money for clothing. December 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to James Hammiltoun alias James þe constabill to by him clathis—x li [423]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to James Hamilton, alias James the constable, to buy himself clothes, £10.

John Crawford (Master Wright) John Crawford, wright (a craftsman, probably a carpenter), was on the payroll of King James V but continued on during the regency as wright and gunner.113 These two occupations might seem like an odd fit, but an entry of March 1545/46 makes it clear that the carpenters crafted the rolling carriages on which the artillery pieces were mounted.114 By March 1551, the Accounts refer to him as master wright.115 Although his initial grant of £12 is relatively modest, after his promotion to master wright the amount increased to match that given to the master gunner and the master melter. December 1546 Item to Jhonne crauffurd for his lyfray—xij li [244]

Item, to John Crawford for his livery, £12.

November 1551 Item xo nouembris be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiale command to Johnne crawfurde maister wryt in edinburt castell to by hyme leveray clais wt aganis þis nixt ȝule—xx li [662]

Item, November 10th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Crawford, master wright in Edinburgh castle, to buy himself livery clothes with for this next Yule, £20.

November 1552 Item to Johnne crawfurd maister wryt to by hyme leveray clathis witht aganis þis ȝule—xx li [767]

113

Ibid., 8:106, 134, 225. Ibid., 8:444. 115 Ibid., 10:21. 114

Item, to John Crawford, master wright, to buy himself livery clothes with for this Yule, £20.

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John Drummond (Wright and Gunner) The second item could be for John Drummond the trumpeter, but the lack of specification suggests that there was only one person of that name employed at any given time. (The last entry for John Drummond the trumpeter was from December 1544.) Both of these entries might be remuneration not intended to be used for clothing. If they were meant to purchase clothes, however, the amounts given were comparable to the master craftsmen in several categories. April 1545 Item þe last day of apple be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Jhonn drummond wrycht and gunner for his liveray of þis last bigane ȝeir— xx li [138]

Item, the last day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Drummond, wright and gunner, for his livery of this current year, £20.

December 1546 Item be my lord gouernoures precept to Jhonne Drummond for his lyfray agane ȝule—xx li [244]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Drummond for his livery for Yule, £20.

Master John Hamilton of Milburn (Master of Works for Holyrood) Master John Hamilton of Milburn116 was somewhat sarcastically described as a famous clerk (or cleric) by John Knox, a Reformation author. In 1547 Master John was sent to France on behalf of the Regent, and the good-quality clothes for this mission are the subject of his only entry in the regency Accounts. Knox vilified him and related with relish his death on the journey: From Scotland was send a famous clerk, (lawghe [laugh] not, readar,) Maister Johnne Hammyltoun of Mylburne, with credite to the King of France, and unto the Cardinall of Lorane, (and yitt he nether had French nor Latine, and some say his Scottishe toung was nott verray good.)…. befoir his letteris war delyvered, he brack his nek; and so God took away a proude ignorant ennemye.117

116 117

Hamilton, History, 585. Knox, Works, 1:207.



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October 1547 Item to /m/ Jhonne hammiltoun of mylnburne at his departing to france In my lorde gouernoures effaris to be him ane ryding cloke ane doublat and to lyne þe nek of his cloke nyne elnis blak welwote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxxj li x s

Item, to Master John Hamilton of Milburn at his departing to France on my lord governor’s affairs, to be a riding cloak and a doublet for him, and to line the neck of his cloak, 9 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £31 10s.

Item thre elnis and thre quartaris pareis blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li xvj s

Item, 3¾ ells of Paris black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £6 16s.118

Item foure elnis bukrame to þir clathis—xx s

Item, 4 ells of buckram for these clothes, 20s.

Item to Archiebald dewar for furnesing of þe rest of þe lyninges and making of þir clathis—iiij li v s

Item, to Archibald Dewar for furnishing the rest of the linings and making of these clothes, £4 5s.

Item ane elne of canves to pak þir clathis and send to him to dumbertane—ij s [337]

Item, an ell of canvas to pack these clothes and send them to him at Dumbarton, 2s.

Dean John Sclater (Slater) Dean Sclater or Slater was Master of Work at the family properties of Hamilton and Arran and thus took charge of the Regent’s building program and any repairs that were necessary. He was a churchman, but only his first grant was specifically for religious garments. On the secular side, he received quite a bit of fine French wool for gowns and coats as well as one of the few men’s hats in the Accounts. The hat was made of “double silk,” which might have described the structure of the fabric or could indicate that the hat was both covered in and lined with silk. Paul transcribed the mystery word in Sclater’s first grant [265] as “doublett.” It was written messily between the lines as an insertion, and while it seems to start with d, the final letter looks more like n than tt. Reading the word is further complicated by the fact that it is written across the upsweep of an f from the line below. Of the fabric for secular clothing granted to Dean John, most was of high quality, the exceptions being some of the doublet fabrics. Since doublets were not generally visible, being covered by the coat, they were an unobtrusive place to economize. Dean John was given cloth for several gowns, indicating his high status.

118

The total should be £6 15s.

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January 1546/47 Item xvto Januarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande nyne elnis vnprest blak to be dene Jhonne sclater ane habit price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa— xvij li ij s

Item, January 15th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 9 ells of unpressed black to be a habit for Dean John Sclater, price of each ell 38s; total: £17 2s.

Item foure elnis lylis worsate to be ane skaiplare and d??blon? price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of Lille worsted to be a scapular and d, price of each ell 16s; total: £3 4s.

Item ane bonet to him—xviij s [265]

Item, a bonnet for him, 18s.

January 1549/50 Item xvijmo Januarii be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to Dene Jhonne sclater maister of warke of hammiltoun xj quarteres lylis worsat to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xv s Summa—xlj s iij d

Item, January 17th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Dean John Sclater, master of work of Hamilton, 2¾ ells of Lille worsted to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 15s; total: 41s 3d.

Item ane elne uterfyne to be him hois price—xxxvj s [525]

Item, an ell of utterfine to be hose for him, price 36s.

February 1549/50 Item vltimo fabruarii be my lord gouernoures command to Dene Johnn sclater maister of wark in hammyltoun vj elnis fyne franche blak to be him ane goun þe elne xliiij s summa—xiij li iiij s [531]

Item, the last day of February, by my lord governor’s command, to Dean John Sclater, master of work in Hamilton, 6 ells of fine French black to be a gown for him, each ell 44s; total: £13 4s.

August 1550 Item be his graces commande coft to dene Jhonne sclater maister of warke in hammiltoun vij elnis pareis blak price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xv li viij s [608]

Item, by his grace’s command, bought for Dean John Sclater, master of work in Hamilton, 7 ells of Paris black, price of each ell 44s; total: £15 8s.



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January 1551/52 Item xxijo Januarii be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command deliuerit to dene Johnne sclater tobe hym ane gowne and ane coite ix elnis frenche blak price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xvj li iiij s

Item, January 22nd, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Dean John Sclater to be a gown and a coat for him, 9 ells of French black, price of each ell 36s; total: £16 4s.

Item thre elnis serge tobe hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne xiiij s Summa—xlij s

Item, 3 ells of serge to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 14s; total: 42s.

Item ane elne of Stemmyng of myllane tobe hyme hois price þairof—xxxvj s [685]

Item, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for him, price thereof 36s.

May 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command coft to dene Johnne sclater his grace maister werk ane hatt of dowble silk price þairof—xxviij s [723]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought for Dean John Slater, his grace’s master of work, a hat of double silk, price thereof 28s.

November 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command deliuerit to dene Johnne sclater x elnis blak to be hyme ane gowne coit and hois price of þe elne xl s Summa— xx li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Dean John Sclater, 10 ells of black to be a gown, coat, and hose for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £20.

Item vj quarteris dowble wirsett tobe hyme ane dowblet price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—lj s

Item, 1½ ells of double worsted, to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 34s; total: 51s.

Item for ane bonett to hyme—xvj s [761]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 16s.

September 1553 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande thre elnis fyne franche blak deliuerit to dene Jhone sclater maister of wark of hammiltoun þe elne xl s Summa—vj li [846]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, 3 ells of fine French black delivered to Dean John Sclater, master of work of Hamilton, each ell 40s; total: £6.

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John Skyrling (Gunner) John Skyrling and Robert Simpson (a messenger) spent time in England in both July and August 1553 acting as legal surety119 for Scottish men who had been indicted. Their service was handsomely compensated with two payments. In July they received £35 “for their expenses,”120 and when they returned in August, £20 each, of which £10 was designated for clothing. John also served as a “gunner extraordinar,” i.e., one who was hired in excess of the usual number.121 August 1553 Item xxjo Augusti be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to robart symsoun and Jhone skyrling returnand agane to Ingland to ly In pleage for certane Liddisdale men vpoun quhome þair wes billis fylit afore þe wardane—xx li

Item, August 21st, by my lord governor’s special command, to Robert Simpson and John Skyrling, returned again to England to lie in pledge for certain Liddisdale men upon whom there were bills filed before the Warden, £20.

Item mair to þe said robart and Jhone to by þame clathis—xx li [831]

Item, also to the said Robert and John to buy themselves clothes, £20.

Master Peter Sempill (Constable of Edinburgh Castle) Master Peter had only one grant of money for clothing in the regency Accounts. Unfortunately, the portion of the manuscript containing the amount given is missing, although the gift of £10 to James Hamilton, Constable of Edinburgh Castle, may give an indication. Master Peter is the subject of very few entries: aside from this one, two others supply the information that he was a constable in Edinburgh Castle in 1544 and that he traveled from Dundee in 1547.122 March 1544/45 Item þe samyn day [be my lord gouernoris precept and spe]tiall command to maister petir sympill to by him clathis and other necessaris þe sowme of—123 [122]

119

Item, the same day [by my lord governor’s precept and spe]cial command, to Master Peter Sempill to buy himself clothes and other necessities, the sum of .

OED, “pledge, n.” Paul, Accounts, 10:188. 121 Ibid., 9:307. 122 Ibid., 8:291, 9:133. 123 This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. 120



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Robert Moffet (Wright and Gunner) Robert began as a “gunner extraordinar” like John Skyrling (above) in 1545, but by the next year he was on the regular payroll.124 In late 1547 he was sent to cut wood, suggesting that he was taking on a wright’s role as well, and in February 1548/49, he was designated as a wright and a gunner.125 He served into the reign of Queen Mary.126 His grant of good-quality wool for a single cloak totaled half the entire sum given to John Skyrling, who was merely a gunner, presumably to buy an entire outfit. June 1549 Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande to moffet wrycht to be him ane cote cloke tua elnis & ane half spanȝe freis price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li [477]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Moffet, wright, to be a cloak for him, 2½ ells of Spanish frieze, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Thomas Bargany (Mason) Thomas worked on Arran’s properties of Hamilton and Kinneil. Although he was only given one grant for clothes, the Regent must have appreciated his masonry, as he received three separate gratuities of “drinksilver,” in August and December 1552 and September 1553.127 December 1551 Item be his grace speciale command to thomas bargany masoun to by hyme claithis witht—xij li [670]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Thomas Bargany, mason, to buy himself clothes with, £12.

William Hill (Smith) William was primarily employed as a smith, beginning during the reign of King James V, who granted him and a gunner gowns, doublets, and hose.128 During the regency he was also listed as a gunner.129 He was first listed as master smith in November 1552, the date of his second grant of clothing. Despite his seeming promotion, the amount given to him was no different from that of the previous year. His wife also received clothing via the Accounts (see p. 000).

124

Paul, Accounts, 8:422, 9:41. Ibid., 9:133, 283. 126 Ibid., 10:416. 127 Ibid., 10:101, 142, 206. 128 Ibid., 8:24. Gowns were usually reserved for those of higher status. 129 Ibid., 8:225, 404, 484. 125

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November 1551 Item be his grace precept and spetiale command to william hyll smyt in edinburt castell to by him leveray claithis with—x li [662]

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, to William Hill, smith in Edinburgh castle, to buy himself livery clothes with, £10.

November 1552 Item to williame hyll maister smy t to by hyme leveray clathis witht agane þis ȝule—x li [767]

Item, to William Hill, master smith, to buy himself livery clothes with for this Yule, £10.

OT HE R Alexander Stevenson (Lute Player) Although he appears only three times in the regency Accounts, Alexander was apparently considered part of the household, as he was granted money to buy himself a mourning livery on the death of Marie de Guise’s father in 1550. The sum given would have been enough for a good-quality coat and cloak set or a middling-grade outfit of coat, cloak, and hose. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Alexander Stewinsoun Lutar to by him ane dule lyfray—x li [585]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Alexander Stevenson, lute-player, to buy himself a mourning livery, £10.

Bessie Druppis (Laundress) Bessie was employed by and received clothing from the previous administration as well.130 The Regent gave her five ells of utterfine for a kirtle and a “pair of cloaks” at the very beginning of his regency. A kirtle of utterfine required 2½ to 3 ells [see entries 3 and 73], so it is possible that two short cloaks could have been made of the remainder. Or it could be that “pair of cloaks” referred to a particular style of cloak, perhaps because it was double-layered in some way. The phrase “pair of cloaks” does not appear elsewhere in the regency Accounts, but it does occasionally show up in other fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Scottish sources.131

130

Ibid., 8:46. DSL, s.v. “Cloke,” especially 1.a.

131



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February 1542/43 Item deliuerit to besse ?132 druppis ane of the lavanderis to be ane kirtill and ane pair of clokis v elnis vterfyne, price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—vij li

Item, delivered to Bessie Druppis, one of the laundresses, to be a kirtle and a pair of cloaks, 5 ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £7.

Item deliuerit to hir ane elne blak veluet price—lv s [15]

Item, delivered to her an ell of black velvet, price 55s.

Christiane Bell (Nurse) This is Christiane’s only mention in the regency Accounts. A nurse at this time was a wetnurse, or one who provided milk to someone else’s child, so the grant of fabric was probably a gift to an old family servant. January 1546/47 Item iij Januarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Cristiane bell his gracis nwreis foure elnis franche blake price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, January 3rd, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Christiane Bell, his grace’s nurse, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item be þe same precept half ane elne of welwote—xxxv s [260]

Item, by the same precept, ½ ell of velvet, 35s.

Edward Stewart (Falconer) Edward Stewart received livery clothes late in the reign of King James V,133 and his first grant during the regency was for mourning after the king’s death. The liveries he was granted thereafter represented a goodly sum. His sons followed in his footsteps as falconers, and grants to them indicate that their father died before November 1548. January 1542/43: This was mourning worn for the late King James V. Item deliuerit to be ane dwle gowne coit and huid to Edward stewart x elnis quarter elne vtir fyne, price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xiiij li vij s [5]

132

Item, delivered to be a mourning gown, coat, and hood for Edward Stewart, 10¼ ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £14 7s.

An illegible mark appears between “besse” and “druppis” in the manuscript. It looks as though the clerk may have tried to rub it out, so it is possible that it was a mistake. 133 Paul, Accounts, 8:102.

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April 1545 Item þe samyn day be his graces precept and spetiall command to his gracis seruitour Eduard stewart In compositioun of ane precept to anser him of ane lyfray—xxx li [131]

Item, the same day by his grace’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant, Edward Stewart, in composition of a precept to answer him of [compensate him with] a livery, £30.

April 1546 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall comd to his gracis seruitour? edward stewart in compositioun of ane precept direct to furnist þe said edward ane levaray þe soume of—xxx li [199]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant?, Edward Stewart, in composition of a precept direct to furnish the said Edward a livery, the sum of £30.

Edward Stewart’s Children (Falconers) One of Edward Stewart’s children was also named Edward. The clothing given to them was made of relatively cheap cloth, but they were granted full outfits of coat, doublet, and hose. November 1546 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept to Edward Stewartis tua childer falconarres vj elnis color de roy to be þame cotis price of þe elne xx s Summa—vj li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, for Eduard Stewart’s two children, falconers, 6 ells of color de roy to be coats for them, price of each ell 20s; total: £6.

Item thre elnis quhite to be þame hois price of þe elne viij s Summa— xxiiij s

Item, 3 ells of white to be hose for them, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

Item thre elnis canves to be þame doublattis price of þe elne iij s Summa—ix s

Item, 3 ells of canvas to be doublets for them, price of each ell 3s; total: 9s.

Item tua bonettis to þame—viij s [239]

Item, two bonnets for them, 8s.

November 1548 Item siclik be his graces precept to Eduard stewart sone to vmquhile Edward Stewart falconar tua elnis scottis claith to be him ane cote price of þe elne xvj s Summa xxxij s

Item, similarly by his grace’s precept to Edward Stewart, son to the late Edward Stewart, falconer, 2 ells of Scottish cloth to be a coat for him, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item x quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne viij s Summa xx s

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 20s.



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Item vj quartaris quhite to be him ane pair of hois þe elne viij s Summa xij s

Item, 1½ ells of white to be a pair of hose for him, each ell 8s; total: 12s.

Item for lyning to þir clathis and making of þame—xviij s [416]

Item, for lining for these clothes and making of them, 18s.

Gelis Malwill (Nurse) Gelis was the second of the Regent’s nurses to receive a gift from him. Hers was roughly similar in kind but only two-thirds the value of what was given to Christiane Bell (above). November 1546 Item be his graces precept to Gelis mailwill my lord gouernoures nwreis, contenand vj elnis blak & half ane elne of welwote & gevin hir þairfore—vj li [238]

Item, by his grace’s precept, for Gelis Malwill, my lord governor’s nurse, containing 6 ells of black and ½ ell of velvet, and given her therefore, £6.

James Drummond (Trumpeter) James Drummond received three grants of display livery. The first was of a red coat with white trim and red hose plus fustian doublet and bonnet. The second and third were of particolored red and white hose and coat, but these grants included more expensive satin doublets and taffeta pullings-out for the hose. James also received a much smaller sum that seems to have been for clothing for his personal use and a single grant of white velvet that may have been intended to decorate his last grant of livery. October 1543 Item þe xxv day of october be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command boucht vj elnis domigrane to be cottis and hois to James and Jhonne drummond trumpetouris pryce of þe elne xxxij s Summa—ix li xij s

Item, the 25th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought 6 ells of demigrain to be coats and hose for James and John Drummond, trumpeters, price of each ell 32s; total: £9 12s.

Item to bordour þe saidis cottis tua elnis and ane half franche quhyte pryce of þe elne xxv s Summa—iij li ij s vj d

Item, to border the said coats, 2½ ells of French white, price of each ell 25s; total £3 2s 6d.

Item for lynnyng to þame—xxvij s

Item, for lining to them, 27s.

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Item for making of þe forsaid trumpetouris cottis and hois—v li134

Item, for making of the aforesaid trumpeters’ coats and hose, £5.

Item vj elnis fustiane to be þame doublattis pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 6 ells of fustian to be doublets for them, price of each ell 8s; total: 48s.

Item for lynnyng stenting and making of þame—xij s

Item, for lining, stiffening, and making of them, 12s.

Item for tua bonettis to þe saidis trumpetouris price of þe peis xxij s Summa—xliiij s [53]

Item, for two bonnets for the said trumpeters, price of each piece 22s; total: 44s.

December 1545 Item to James drummond trumpetour to ane compt of ane precept grantit to him be my Lord gouernour by him clay this—iiij li [180]

Item, for James Drummond, trumpeter, for an account of a precept granted to him by my lord governor to buy himself clothes, £4.

October 1546

134

Item þe xxix day of October be my lord gouernouris precept and spetiall commande foure elnis demygrane to be ane part of the trumpetouris cote & hois þe elne xxxij s Summa—vj li vij s

Item, the 29th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, 4 ells of demigrain to be one part of the trumpeter’s coat and hose, each ell 32s; total: £6 7s.135

Item to be þe other half of þe said cote and hois thre elnis and ane half franche quhite þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vj li vj s

Item, to be the other half of the said coat and hose, 3½ ells of French white, each ell 36s; total: £6 6s.

Item v elnis gray to lyne þe said cote price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xx s

Item, 5 ells of gray to line the said coat, price of each ell 4s; total: 20s.

Item for making of þis cote to þe tailȝeour and Broudstair—v li

Item, for making of this coat, to the tailor and the embroiderer, £5.

Item thre elnis sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xl s Summa—vj li

Item, 3 ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £6.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of the right edge is missing. Paul’s transcription gives the total as “iiij li x s.” The first part of the total (v li) is barely legible, but the page is torn off just to the right of that. £5 is a high price for making coats and hose, suggesting that they were embroidered [see 232, p. 000]. 135 The total should be £6 8s.



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Item thre elnis quhite fustiane to lyne þis doublat þe elne iij s Summa—ix s

Item, 3 ells of white fustian to line this doublet, each ell 3s; total: 9s.

Item for stenting to þis doublat—xviij d

Item, for stiffening for this doublet, 18d.

Item tua elnis and ane half taffate to þir hois þe elne xvj s Summa—xl s

Item, 2½ ells of taffeta for these hose, each ell 16s; total: 40s.

Item for making of þir hois and doublat, vj s

Item, for making of these hose and doublet, 6s.

Item ane bonet to him—xxviij s [232]

Item, a bonnet for him, 28s.

March 1548/49 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his graces seruitour and trumpet James Drummond to be þe tane half of his cote foure elnis demegrane price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—vj li xvj s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant and trumpeter, James Drummond, to be the one half of his coat, 4 ells of demigrain, price of each ell 34s; total: £6 16s.

Item to be þe other half of þis coit vij quartaris franche quhite price of þe elne xxxvj s—iij li iij s

Item, to be the other half of this coat, 1¾ ells of French white, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 3s.

Item tua elnis cairsay to geit þe samyn—xx s

Item, 2 ells of kersey to border the same, 20s.

Item for making of þis coit—iiij li

Item, for making of this coat, £4.

Item ane elne of vnprest blak to be him hois—xl s

Item, an ell of unpressed black to be hose for him, 40s.

Item tua elnis taffate to þame—xxx s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta for them, 30s.

Item x quartaris sating to be him ane doublat—v li

Item, 2½ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, £5.

Item ane bonet to him—xxvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

Item for lynyng to þir clathis and making of his hois and doublat—xxiiij s [455]

Item, for lining to these clothes and making of his hose and doublet, 24s.

April 1549 Item for ane elne of quhite welwote deliuerit at my lord gouernoures commande to James Drummond trumpetour—iiij li [468]

Item, for an ell of white velvet delivered at my lord governor’s command to James Drummond, trumpeter, £4.

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John Drummond (Trumpeter) John was probably James’s brother. John received the same grant as James in October 1543, but thereafter received similar but separate items. John’s last livery was granted in December 1544, five years prior to James’s final entry. October 1543 Item þe xxv day of october be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command boucht vj elnis domigrane to be cottis and hois to James and Jhonne drummond trumpetouris pryce of þe elne xxxij s Summa—ix li xij s

Item, the 25th day of October, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought 6 ells of demigrain to be coats and hose for James and John Drummond, trumpeters, price of each ell 32s; total: £9 12s.

Item to bordour þe saidis cottis tua elnis and ane half franche quhyte pryce of þe elne xxv s Summa—iij li ij s vj d

Item, to border the said coats, 2½ ells of French white, price of each ell 25s; total £3 2s 6d.

Item for lynnyng to þame—xxvij s

Item, for lining to them, 27s.

Item for making of þe forsaid trumpetouris cottis and hois—v li136

Item, for making of the aforesaid trumpeters’ coats and hose, £5.

Item vj elnis fustiane to be þame doublattis pryce of þe elne viij s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 6 ells of fustian to be doublets for them, price of each ell 8s; total: 48s.

Item for lynnyng stenting and making of þame—xij s

Item, for lining, stiffening, and making of them, 12s.

Item for tua bonettis to þe saidis trumpetouris price of þe peis xxij s Summa—xliiij s [53]

Item, for two bonnets for the said trumpeters, price of each piece 22s; total: 44s.

May 1544 Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Jhonne drummond for his lyfray of þis last bigane ȝeir—xx li [86]

136

See note 134, above.

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to John Drummond for his livery of this past year, £20.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 597

December 1544 Item xxiij day of december be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Jhonne drummond trumpetour iiij elnis and ane half domegrane to be him cote and hois price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—v li xix s

Item, the 23rd day of December by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for John Drummond, trumpeter, 4½ ells of demigrain to be a coat and hose for him, price of each ell 28s; total: £5 19s.137

Item thre elnis quhyte Inglis cairsay to bordour þis cote and hois price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 3 ells of white English kersey to border this coat and hose, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

Item v elnis blak gray to lyne þis cote price of þe elne iij s Summa—xv s

Item, 5 ells of black gray to line this coat, price of each ell 3s; total: 15s.

Item tua elnis reid taffate to his hois price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of red taffeta for his hose, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xviij s [108]

Item, a bonnet for him, price 18s.

Laundress This might be the same laundress as Bessie Druppis (above), but the time lapse between her entry and these was six years. These grants were also quite a bit more modest than Bessie’s. It is also possible that the two grants below were for two different people. April 1549 Item be his graces precept to his Lavandar to by hir clathis—vj li [467]

Item, by his grace’s precept, to his laundress to buy herself clothes, £6.

August 1549 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept to his graces Lavendar to by hir clathis—iiij li [489]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to his grace’s laundress to buy herself clothes, £4.

Robesoun (Fool) Robesoun served the Regent from at least late 1546 to the end of the regency. His first grant of clothing consisted of a green coat bordered with white and a pair of shoes, but thereafter he was dressed in red and white display livery. His livery of April 1549 and May 1550 was 137

The total should be £6 6s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 4¼ rather than 4½.

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clearly particolored, but the entry of May 1552 was a bit more vague. Although intended for public display, his livery was consistently made of some of the cheapest fabrics listed in the regency Accounts, and when he was granted sums of money rather than fabrics, they were fairly small. However, unlike most of the extended household, Robesoun was provided with shirts. John Lowis, the late king’s fool, had also been provided with shirts (see p. 000). November 1546 Item þe samyn day be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande ix quartaris grene to be ane cote to his gracis fule þe elne ix s Summa—xx s iij d

Item, the same day, by my lord governor’s special command, 2¼ ells of green to be a coat for his grace’s fool, each ell 9s; total: 20s 3d.

Item ane elne of quhite to bordoure þis cote—iiij s

Item, an ell of white to border this coat, 4s.

Item thre elnis gray to lyne þis cote—x s

Item, 3 ells of gray to line this coat, 10s.

Item ane pair of schone to him—xvj d

Item, a pair of shoes for him, 16d.

Item for making of þis cote—v s [235]

Item, for making of this coat, 5s.

April 1549

138

Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to ane fule callit robesoun to be ane half of his coit and hois iij elnis reid price of þe elne vij s Summa— xxviij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to a fool called Robesoun, to be one half of his coat and hose, 3 ells of red, price of each ell 7s; total: 28s.138

Item to be þe other half of his coit and hois vj quartaris quhite price of þe elne viij s Summa—xij s

Item, to be the other half of his coat and hose, 1½ ells of white, price of each ell 8s; total: 12s.

Item lyningis to þis cote—xv s

Item, linings for this coat, 15s.

Item be þe same precept to be þis fule robesoun tua sarkis price—x s

Item, by the same precept, to be this fool Robesoun two shirts, price 10s.

Item ane pair of schone to him—iij s

Item, a pair of shoes for him, 3s.

Item to þe tailȝeoure for þe making of his clathis and to by him ane bonet—xxij s vj d [465]

Item, to the tailor for the making of his clothes, and to buy himself a bonnet, 22s 6d.

The total should be 21s. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 4 instead of 3. The clerk originally left the number of ells out of this line item and so added a caret with a symbol that matched an annotation in the left margin of “iij elnis reid.”



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 59 9

May 1550 Item foure elnis reid cairsay to be ane part of ane cote to ane fule callit robesoun þe elne vj s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 4 ells of red kersey to be one part of a coat for a fool called Robesoun, each ell 6s; total: 24s.

Item thre elnis and ane half quhite to be þe other part of his cote and hois þe elne ix s Summa—xxxj s vj d

Item, 3½ ells of white to be the other part of his coat and hose, each ell 9s; total: 31s 6d.

Item sarkis to him—ix s

Item, shirts for him, 9s.

Item for making of his clathis—xviij s [588]

Item, for making of his clothes, 18s.

February 1550/51 Item viijo februarii be my lord governouris precept gevin for ane leveray to robsvne þe fule—v li vj d [640]

Item, February 8th, by my lord governor’s precept, given for a livery to Robeson the fool, £5 0s 6d.

May 1552 Item xiijo Maii be my lord gouernouris precept and special command coft tobe ane coit to robesone þe fule foure elnis reid carsay price of þe elne vj s viij d Summa— xxvj s viij d

Item, May 13th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought to be a coat for Robeson the fool, 4 ells of red kersey, price of each ell 6s 8d; total: 26s 8d.

Item mair foure elnis and ane half quhite carsay price of þe elne vj s viij d Summa— xxx s

Item, 4½ more ells white kersey, price of each ell 6s 8d; total: 30s.

Item for making and lyning of þis coite— xxviij s

Item, for making and lining of this coat, 28s.

Item to hyme to by hym sarkis and schone witht—x s [720]

Item, for him to buy himself shirts and shoes with, 10s.

April 1553 Item xijo aprilis be commande of my lorde gouernoures precept for ane lyfray cote hois hude and oþer necessaris to robesoun þe fule—v li iij s vj d [810]

Item, April 12th, by command of my lord governor’s precept, for a livery coat, hose, hood, and other necessities, to Robesoun the fool, £5 3s 6d.

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Violists King James V also had musicians who played the viol or viola de gamba (an instrument related to modern violins and violas).139 Most entries, during both James’s reign and the regency, specify four of them, but in at least one instance there were five.140 They were paid quarterly and apparently traveled with the Regent on at least some occasions.141 Their livery clothes were in the low-to-middling range in terms of quality, as they were given from £7 to £15 each to purchase them. April 1550 Item to þe foure vyolaris be þe command of his graces precept to by thame claytis— xxviij li [545]

Item, to the four violists, by the command of his grace’s precept, to buy themselves clothes, £28.

December 1550 Item be my lord governouris precept to his grace foure violaris for þair martymes feis last bipast and toby þame levaray clathis with aganis þis nixt ȝule—lx li [628]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to his grace’s four violists for their last Martinmas fees, and to buy themselves livery clothes with for this next Yule, £60.

November 1551 Item be my lord gouernouris preceptis to þe saidis four violaris to by þame leveray claithtis witht aganis þe nixt ȝule—xxx li [663]

Item, by my lord governor’s precepts to the said four violists to buy themselves livery clothes with for the next Yule, £30.

November 1552

139

Item be his graces precept to þe veolaris for þair martymes feis last bipast—xviij li

Item, by his grace’s precept, to the violists for their fees for this past Martinmas, £18.

Item to þe said veolaris toby þame leveray clathis witht aganis þis ȝule—xxxij li [765]

Item, to the said violists, to buy them livery clothes with for this Yule, £32.

Paul, Accounts, 8:46, 54, 103, 149, 150. The second entry during King James’s reign mentions “Schir Johnne Fechyis children that plays on the viol,” but in other entries in both his reign and the regency they are anonymous. 140 Ibid., 8:240. 141 Ibid., 10:95, 107, 195.



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UNKNOWN Those listed below were certainly servants of the Regent, but the Accounts do not make it clear what their positions were.

Master James Hamilton At least one source considers James Hamilton of Orbiston to be the same person as this Master James, who was slain at sea by Englishmen before this entry was written in September 1548.142 As James Hamilton of Orbiston was a servant of the Regent’s son, who was sent to France in May 1548, there is a certain convergence of circumstances, but James Hamilton of Orbiston’s history seems to have stretched far beyond that date.143 Master James received an annual pension of 200 merks144 from the Regent,145 but among all of the James Hamiltons named in the Accounts, the identity of this one remains mysterious. The provision of a furred gown for him and his title of Master suggest that he was a man of some rank. September 1548 Item, be my lord gouernoures spetiall commande to /M/ James hammiltoun send to france in my lorde gouernoures effaris quha in his passage wes slane be þe Inglische men in þe franche galay takyn be thame In jc crounis of þe sone—jcxij li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Master James Hamilton, sent to France in my lord governor’s affairs, who in his passage was slain by the Englishmen in the French galley taken by them, in 100 crowns of the sun, £112 10s.

Item for ane furrit goun to him to weir upoun þe see—vj li [400]

Item, for a furred gown for him to wear upon the sea, £6.

John Cook John’s only other entry describes him as a servant of the Regent and mentions that he had recently been in France.146 The cloak he was given was of good fabric but unfortunately yields no information about what sort of work he did.

142

George Chalmers, ed. The Life of Mary, Queen of Scots; Drawn from the State Papers, vol. 1 (London: W. Bulmer, 1818), 7–8. 143 Hamilton, History, 511. Prior to serving Arran’s oldest son, John Hamilton of Orbiston was a servant of the Regent and is listed earlier in this chapter. 144 A merk was worth 13s 6d. Gemmill and Mayhew, Changing Values, 385. 145 Paul, Accounts, 8:169, 177. 146 Paul, Accounts, 9:456.

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March 1547/48 Item to Jhonne cuke for tua elnis freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li xij s [371]

Item, to John Cook for 2 ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

John Whiteford of Milnton This may be the same John Whiteford (also spelled Whitefoord of Milton) who was the second husband of Margaret Sempill, daughter of Robert, third Lord Sempill and sister of Grisel Sempill.147 Paul, however, lists the second husband of Margaret Sempill as John Whitefoord of Whitefoord.148 Although John is listed as Arran’s servant, he is curiously absent elsewhere in the regency Accounts. His single grant of clothing includes a velvet doublet, a good-quality wool cloak, and a pair of hose with taffeta pullings-out, which suggests that he had status on the upper end of the middling sort. March 1544/45

147

Item þe samyn [tyme be my] lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to his gracis seruitour jhonne quhitfurd of myln toun thre elnis blak welwot to be him ane doublat price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—x li x s

Item, the same [time by my] lord governor’s precept and special command, given to his grace’s servant, John Whiteford of Milnton, 3 ells of black velvet to be a doublet for him, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £10 10s.

Item thre elnis and ane half paris blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xl s Summa—vij li

Item, 3½ ells of Paris black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £7.

Item v quarteris vterris fyne to be him ane pair of hois price of þe elne xxx s Summa— xxxvij s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of utterfine to be a pair of hose for him, price of each ell 30s; total: 37s 6d.

Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þe samyn price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth the same, price of each ell 16s; total: 32s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet for him, 24s.

…

…

Hamilton, History, 187. Grisel Sempill was mistress to the Regent’s half-brother John Hamilton, archbishop of St. Andrews and former wife of Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse. 148 Paul, Peerage, 7:547.



Peopl e Servin g the Co urt and the Regen t 6 03

Item for ane bonet to Jhonne of quhitfurd contenit alsua wtin his precept—xxiiij s

Item, for a bonnet for John of Whitford, contained also within his precept, 24s.

Item for lynnyng and making of þe clathis contentit wtin þe said Jhonnes precept— xxvj s [124]

Item, for lining and making of the clothes contained within the said John’s precept, 26s.

Paul Kinloch Paul Kinloch does not appear elsewhere in the regency Accounts, though a person of that name was listed among King James V’s household in the 1530s.149 The sum he was given to purchase clothing was comparable to the lump sums given to the Regent’s viol players, fool, and laundress, but whether the money was given for a livery to someone employed by the Regent or as alms to a servant of the late king is unclear. April 1543 Item gevin to pawle kinlot to by him claithis wt at my lord gouernouris command—vj li [39]

Item, given to Paul Kinloch to buy himself clothes with at my lord governor’s command, £6.

Robert Denogent Robert was previously employed by the late king, though in what capacity is not clear.150 His grant during the early regency consisted of a full outfit of leather coat, cloth doublet and hose, and a bonnet, all made from very cheap materials. Despite that economy, however, he was given money for linings and making as well. April 1543

149

Item deliuerit to him to be ane dowblet to robert denogent vij quarteris blak fustiane, price of þe elne vj s Summa—x s vj d

Item, delivered to him to be a doublet for Robert Denogent, 1¾ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 6s; total: 10s 6d.

Item deliuerit to be him hois thre quarteris gray, price—x s

Item, delivered to be hose for him, ¾ ell of gray, price 10s.

Item gevin for ane skin to be him ane coit—ix s

Item, given for a skin to be a coat for him, 9s.

Paul, Accounts, 6:37, 204. Ibid., 8:46, 77.

150

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Item for ane bonet to him—xiij s iiij d

Item, for a bonnet for him, 13s 4d.

Item gevin for lynyng and making of þe saidis claithis as his compt beris—vij s iiij d [33]

Item, given for lining and making of the said clothes as his account shows, 7s 4d.

Robert Hamilton Robert was the third son of Margaret Mowat and the late Sir James Hamilton, Lord of Stonehouse (Stanehouse), who was captain of Edinburgh Castle and provost of Edinburgh. James, Lord Stonehouse was slain in 1548.151 Robert’s half-sister Elizabeth also received clothing (see p. 495). His first entry grants a coat and cloak of expensive wool trimmed with borders of satin and makes no mention of an affiliation with the Regent’s household. The second entry specifically includes him as a servant and indicates that he is to get wool of a similarly high quality, though without satin trim. December 1549 Item be his graces precept and spetiall commande to Robert hammiltoun ane of þe sonnes of vmqle þe laird of Stanehous foure elnis freis & a quartar to be him cote and cloke price of þe elne xlv s Summa—ix li xj s iij d

Item, by his grace’s precept and special command, for Robert Hamilton, one of the sons of the late lord of Stanehouse, 4¼ ells of frieze to be coat and cloak for him, price of each ell 45s; total: £9 11s 3d.

Item vij quartarris sating to bordoure þe samyn price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iij li iij s [517]

Item, 1¾ ells of satin to border the same, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 3s.

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item to be ane cote clok and hois to Robert hammiltoun seruand to my lord gouernour ane of þe sonnes of vmqle þe laird of stanehous fyve elnis and ane quartar pareis blak þe elne xlvj s Summa—xij li xviij d [580]

Item, to be a coat, cloak, and hose for Robert Hamilton, servant to my lord governor, one of the sons of the late lord of Stanehouse, 5¼ ells of Paris black, each ell 46s; total: £12 18d.

Master Robert Spittell A Robert Spittell worked as a tailor for King James V’s household, and was employed at the very beginning of the regency to make mourning gowns for Marie de Guise’s ladies (see p. 608). Master Robert appears a few times in the regency Accounts, but he is never identified 151

Hamilton, History, 828–31.



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as a tailor. He received a few payments, one for a horse and another “in consideration of his service.”152 The two items of clothing he received near the end of the regency were of very good, though not exceptional, quality. August 1553 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept deliuerit to /M/ robert spittell to be him ane doublat thre elnis blak sating price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xiiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, delivered to Master Robert Spittell, to be a doublet for him, 3 ells of black satin, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 14s.

Item iij elnis franche blak to be him ane cloke þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xiiij s [830]

Item, 3 ells of French black to be a cloak for him, each ell 38s; total: £5 14s.

Will the Cas/Kasche Will the Cas or Kasche clearly worked in some capacity in the Regent’s service, and given that he was granted a covering for a steel helm, that capacity might have been military in nature. Interestingly, his second grant was for a livery of red and white cloth, suggesting that it was a display livery and thus that his service might have been publicly visible in nature. December 1550 Item be my lord governouris spetiale command to Will þe cas to by him claithis wt—xlviij s [628]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Will the Cas to buy himself clothes with, 48s.

November 1552

152

Item be his grace speciale command deliuerit to will þe kasche tobe him ane leveray coit hois and dowblett x elnis reid and quhite claitht price of þe elne viij s Summa—iiij li

Item, by his grace’s special command, delivered to Will the Kasche to be a livery coat, hose, and doublet for him, 10 ells of red and white cloth, price of each ell 8s; total: £4.

Item to þe tailȝeour þat maid þe samin for making of þe saidis doublet hois and coit and furnessing þairof witht lynyng—xxxiij s vj d

Item, to the tailor that made the same, for making of the said doublet, hose, and coat, and furnishing thereof with lining, 33s 6d.

Item for ane covering of ane steill bonett to hyme—xx s [766]

Item, for a covering of a steel bonnet for him, 20s.

Paul, Accounts, 10:126.

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The Lord of Innerwick The Lord of Innerwick may have been Alexander Hamilton, also designated “of Ballincrief.”153 Alexander was the eldest son of James Hamilton of Innerwick, who died at the battle of Pinkie Cleugh in 1547 and was a long-time friend of Arran. The James Hamilton to whom the money was entrusted was probably a servant of the Regent who was given the responsibility of conducting the transaction. Alternatively, the Lord of Innerwick could have been Alexander’s younger brother James.154 The mourning granted was for Marie de Guise’s father and indicated that the Lord of Innerwick was in some way considered part of Arran’s household. May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall command to James hammyltoun to þe laird of Innerwyk to by himself ane dule liveray— xiij li vj s viij d [567]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to James Hamilton, for the lord of Innerwick to buy himself a mourning livery, £13 6s 8d.

CONCLU SION The variety of people represented in this section speaks to the complexity of the Regent’s household and the ways in which it intersected with the administrative structure of the state. All classes are represented here, and the delineation between ranks can be seen clearly in the types of clothing and the qualities of fabric given. Taken as a whole, these entries also suggest certain aspects of Arran’s personality. For example, he gave gifts to his own past servants (such as his nurses), but he apparently had difficulties retaining a head cook for any length of time. He kept falcons, either as a symbol of his rank or because he actually hunted with them. He appreciated that employing musicians was expected of a ruler, but it seems likely that he enjoyed music as well. Several of the occasions on which his viol ensemble traveled with him were Airs, or circuit courts at which the business of the state pertaining to a particular region were held, and he also made payments to lute players, a fiddler, and his fool for their efforts there.155 Presumably, he felt that entertainment lightened the drudgery of these tasks. Arran preferred stability in his staff. He employed some people who were already in place, as they had been servants of King James V. To these he added numerous members of his extended family, often in groups. Several sets of brothers and fathers and sons were part of his household, which was largely male. More female servants were found in the pool of those serving his wife and daughters; these are listed in the next chapter.

153

Hamilton, History, 493. Keith W. Murray, “An Incident in the Hamilton Family,” Genealogist, n.s., 20 (1904): 2, 4. 155 Paul, Accounts, 10:95, 107, 195. 154

Chapter 8

Servants to Others and Miscellaneous People Those serving someone besides the Regent, including servants to the Regent’s wife and children, appear in relatively small numbers and do not include any functionaries of the court or the wider government or military structure. They are few enough that they are most simply divided here based on whom they served. Within each group they are alphabetized by first name. These groups contain both upper and lower servants, and these are generally distinguishable by the quality of the clothing they were given.

SERVA NTS TO M A RG A R ET D OU GL A S, L A DY A R R A N Like many women of her station, the Regent’s wife had a number of personal servants. Most of those receiving clothing were what are generally thought of today as ladies-in-waiting, but Lady Arran also employed a chaplain. The presence of these attendants formed an important part of her status and in many ways mimicked the arrangement of a royal court. Ladies-in-waiting graced many of the royal courts of Europe, but their duties and circumstances varied depending on the court, the person whom they served, their personality, and their own family’s wealth and connections. Their clothing was of particular importance, primarily to uphold the consequence of their mistress, whether royal or noble, but secondarily to further their own interests. Two of the Regent’s daughters served as maidens of the chamber to Marie de Guise, and several other contemporary examples furnish illustrations of the type of wardrobe that might be required upon assuming such a role.1 While they did provide service of various kinds, including companionship, entertainment (especially by dancing and making music), maintenance of clothing, dressing, and waiting at table, they also had the ear of their patron and others of influence at court and could bring their own or their family’s causes to the attention of people in power. In addition, time at See, for example, Thomasine Petre (Buck, “Thomasine Petre,” 27–28) and Anne and Katherine

 1

Basset (St. Clare Byrne, Lisle Letters, 4:151, 163–64, 166–68, 174, 178, 182, 184, 186, 188–97).

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court served as something of a finishing school for young ladies, training them in various ways to move in powerful circles. And of course, they could find a valuable husband. Many maids of honor ended their term of service with marriage, although being married was no bar to such service. Different courts used different terms, but in general, older women in this type of service (many of them married) might be known as ladies-in-waiting or gentlewomen, and younger unmarried women might be known as maids of honor, maidens to the Lady, or waiting maids.

My Lady’s Gentlewomen For the purposes of assigning clothing, the generic term “gentlewomen” is used for what is probably the entire group of attendants (including the maidens). They were given mourning gowns and kirtles after the death of King James V. The cloth was probably fairly wide, as the length—just over three ells for each gown and two and a half for each kirtle—was somewhat meager. The fabric was of middling quality. For comparison, it was roughly the same price as that given to the Regent’s falconer and, later, to the servants of Arran’s chamber during his household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father, but much less than most of the cloth given out for that mourning. January 1542/43 Item deliuerit to robert spittell tailȝer to be dwle gownis to my Ladyis v gentilwemen four elnis quarter elne rissillis blak, price of the elne xxxij s and xiij elnis thre quarteris vtrisfyne, price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—xxvj li xij d

Item, delivered to Robert Spittell, tailor, to be mourning gowns for my lady’s 5 gentlewomen, 4¼ ells of Lille2 black, price of each ell 32s, and 13¾ ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £26 0s 12d.

Item deliuerit to him to be þame kirtillis xij elnis half elne vterisfyne, price of the elne xxviij s Summa—xvij li x s

Item, delivered to him to be kirtles for them, 12½ ells of utterfine, price of each ell 28s; total: £17 10s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne the samin wyth xx elnis blak gray, price of þe elne ij s x d Summa—lvj s viij d [3]

Item, delivered to him to line the same with, 20 ells of black gray, price of each ell 2s 10d; total: 56s 8d.

March 1542/43 Item deliuerit to him for gentill wemen thre crapis price þairof—xlvj s [23]

Rijsel is the Dutch name for the city of Lille.

 2

Item, delivered to him for gentlewomen, three crepes, price thereof 46s.



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Bessie Hamilton (Maiden of the Chamber) As a maiden of Lady Arran’s chamber, Bessie was probably a teenager, of good family, connected in some way to the Regent and/or his wife, and certainly unmarried. She could have been one of several Elizabeths. The Regent had a niece named Elizabeth who was an illegitimate daughter of his half-brother Sir James Hamilton of Finnart. She married circa 1556.3 John Hamilton of Nelisland (see p. 377) also had a daughter named Elizabeth, who married in 1559.4 Sir Robert Hamilton of the Haggs (see p. 378) had a niece named Elizabeth who might have been the right age,5 and Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse had a daughter named Elizabeth as well (see p. 495). Of the two maidens mentioned in this grant, Bessie was apparently of higher status. In addition to a gown of good French wool bordered in velvet and a matching velvet partlet, she received a velvet hood as well. April 1552 Item quarto aprilis be my lord gouenouris speciale command and precept to besse hammyltoune and margaret hammyltoune madynnis to my lady viij elnis frenche blak to be þame gownis price of þe elne xl s Summa—xvj li

Item, April 4th, by my lord governor’s special command and precept, to Bessie Hamilton and Margaret Hamilton, maidens to my Lady, 8 ells of French black to be gowns for them, price of each ell 40s; total: £16.

Item four elnis and ane half welwet to bordour þir gownis to be þame paitclaithis and to be ane hude to besse hammyltoune price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xv li xv s

Item, 4½ ells of velvet to border these gowns, to be partlets for them, and to be a hood for Bessie Hamilton, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £15 15s.

Item half ane elne of satin to lyne þe hude price þairof—xviij s

Item, ½ ell of satin to line the hood, price thereof 18s.

Item ix elnis gray to lyne þe gownis price of þe elne v s Summa—xlv s

Item, 9 ells of gray to line the gowns, price of each ell 5s; total: 45s.

Item tway elnis canves to lyne þe bodeis of þe samyn price þairof—vj s [708]

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of the same, price thereof 6s.

Isabel Hamilton Isabel is also difficult to identify. If the previous maiden was Elizabeth Hamilton, niece of Sir Robert Hamilton of the Haggs, she had a sister named Isabel who might have served

Hamilton, History, 273. Ibid., 612.  5 Ibid., 436.  3

 4

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with her.6 If Isabel was a gentlewoman rather than a maiden, it’s possible that she was a daughter of Sir John Hamilton of Broomhill and Jonet Hamilton.7 That Isabel was a cousin of the Regent (their fathers were half-brothers). An April 1543 grant for Isabel Hamilton, daughter of the abbot of Ferne, may be for the same person, but the clothes granted were much less expensive.8 Whatever her true identity, Isabel was clearly of high status. Her grant of silk for a damask gown trimmed with black velvet and a satin kirtle may have been accompanied by black velvet for a muffler and cornet. Due to the interleaving of entries for different individuals, it is difficult to determine which two were the intended recipients of these accessories. March 1542/43: These are excerpts from a long series that included clothing for several people. The full entry is listed under Lady Margaret Douglas in Chapter 6. Item deliuerit to him to be ane gown to Issobell hammyltoune x elnis blak dames, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xviij li

Item, delivered to him [ John Anderson] to be a gown for Isabel Hamilton, 10 ells of black damask, price of each ell 36s; total: £18.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill vj elnis ½ elne gray sating, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xj li xiiij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her, 6½ ells of gray satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £11 14s.

…

…

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe bodyis of all þe foresaidis claithis xij elnis quhite fustiane, price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, delivered to him to line the bodies of all the aforesaid clothes, 12 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe saidis twa gownis of blak dames and ane gowne of blak sating furneist be william tailliefere, twa elnis ½ quarter blak veluet price of þe elne lvj s Summa—v li xix s

Item, delivered to him to trim the said two gowns of black damask and a gown of black satin furnished by William Tailliefere, 2⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell 56s; total: £5 19s.

Item deliuerit to be þame twa cornnettis and twa mvsellis ½ elne ane naill blak veluet price—xxx s xj d obolus

Item, delivered to be two cornets and two mufflers for them, 9⁄16 ell of black velvet, price 30s 11½d.

Item deliuerit to lyne the samin quarter ½ quarter blak teffites of Janis, price þairof— v s iij d

Item, delivered to line the same, ⅜ ell of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 5s 3d.

Ibid. Ibid., 187.  8 See p. 000.  6  7



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Item gevin to þe said Johnne andersoune telȝeour for lynyngis furnesit be him to all þe foresaidis claithis maid to my lady hir dochter and gentilwemen and to certane vþer clathis furnesit to thame be william telliefere and for the fassoune þairof as his comptis beris—xix li xiij s [25]

Item, given to the said John Anderson, tailor, for linings furnished by him for all the aforesaid clothes made for my lady, her daughter, and gentlewomen, and for certain other clothes furnished to them by William Telliefere, and for the making thereof, as his accounts show, £19 13s.

May 1543 Item þe xxv day of maii deliuerit to be ane gowne to Issobell hammiltoune ix elnis tanny veluet, price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xxxj li x s

Item, the 25th day of May, delivered to be a gown for Isabel Hamilton 9 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £31 10s.

Item deliuerit to lyne þe syctis þairof v quarteris blak teffites of Janis, price þairof—xx s

Item, delivered to line the scyes thereof, 1¼ ells of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 20s.

Item gevin to Johnne andersone for blak gray canves and fustiane furnesit be him to þe samin gowne—xxij s vj d

Item, given to John Anderson for black gray, canvas, and fustian furnished by him for the same gown, 22s 6d.

Item gevin for ane Inglis garnesing to hir huid—xxx s [42]

Item, given for an English garnishing for her hood, 30s.

Janet/Jane Hamilton The tendency of sixteenth-century Scots to use Jean, Jane, Janet, and Jonet interchangeably complicates the search for this particular person. Candidates include Janet, daughter of Janet Maxwell and John Hamilton of Haggs,9 brother of Sir Robert Hamilton of the Haggs (see p. 378); Janet, daughter of the late Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse and Grisel Sempill,10 and sister to Elizabeth (see p. 495), Robert (see p. 604), and John (below); and Jean, daughter of Sir David Hamilton of Fingaltoun (she married John, the son of the late Sir James Hamilton of Stonehouse, so would have been the sister-in-law of the previous Janet).11 Given that the entries are nearly a decade apart, it is quite possible that they are for two different people with the same name. The difference in the two grants supports this hypothesis, as the first is much grander than the second. The entry of March 1542/43 details a black damask gown and a tawny damask kirtle and may include a velvet muffler and cornet (several people received items in this series, and it is difficult to tell what was intended for whom). The grant of September 1553, however, outlines a much more middle-class ensemble consisting of a nice wool gown with velvet trim and partlet and Holland cloth for kerchiefs. Hamilton, History, 435. Ibid., 833. 11 Ibid., 835.  9 10

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March 1542/43 These are excerpts from a long series that included clothing for several people. The full entry is listed under Lady Margaret Douglas in Chapter 6. Item deliuerit to be ane gowne to Jane hammiltoune ix elnis ½ elne dames, price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xv li iiij s

Item, delivered to be a gown for Jane Hamilton, 9½ ells of damask, price of each ell 32s; total: £15 4s.

Item deliuerit to be hir ane kirtill and to geit ane gowne to barbara of tanny dames vij elnis tanny veluet price of þe elne iij li vj s Summa—xxiij li ij s

Item, delivered to be a kirtle for her and to trim a gown for Barbara of tawny damask, 7 ells of tawny velvet, price of each ell £3 6s; total: £23 2s.

Item deliuerit to him to lyne þe bodyis of all þe foresaidis claithis xij elnis quhite fustiane, price of þe elne iij s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, delivered to him to line the bodies of all the aforesaid clothes, 12 ells of white fustian, price of each ell 3s; total: 36s.

Item deliuerit to him to geit þe saidis twa gownis of blak dames and ane gowne of blak sating furneist be william tailliefere, twa elnis ½ quarter blak veluet price of þe elne lvj s Summa—v li xix s

Item, delivered to him to trim the said two gowns of black damask and a gown of black satin furnished by William Tailliefere, 2⅛ ells of black velvet, price of each ell 56s; total: £5 19s.

Item deliuerit to be þame twa cornnettis and twa mvsellis ½ elne ane naill blak veluet price—xxx s xj d obolus

Item, delivered to be two cornets and two mufflers for them, 9⁄16 ell of black velvet, price 30s 11½d.

Item deliuerit to lyne the samin quarter ½ quarter blak teffites of Janis, price þairof— v s iij d

Item, delivered to line the same, ⅜ ell of black taffeta of Genoa, price thereof 5s 3d.

Item gevin to þe said Johnne andersoune telȝeour for lynyngis furnesit be him to all þe foresaidis claithis maid to my lady hir dochter and gentilwemen and to certane vþer clathis furnesit to thame be william telliefere and for the fassoune þairof as his comptis beris—xix li xiij s [25]

Item, given to the said John Anderson, tailor, for linings furnished by him for all the aforesaid clothes made for my lady, her daughter, and gentlewomen, and for certain other clothes furnished to them by William Telliefere, and for the making thereof, as his accounts show, £19 13s.

September 1553 Item be his graces commande deliuerit to Jonet hammiltoun seruand to my Ladye foure elnis franche blak to be hir ane goun þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, by his grace’s command, delivered to Janet Hamilton, servant to my Lady, 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her, each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.



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Item vj quarteris welwote to bordour þis goun and to be hir ane paitlat þe elne iij li xij s Summa—v li viij s

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to border this gown and to be a partlet for her, each ell £3 12s; total: £5 8s.

Item foure elnis and ane half gray to lyne þe samyn þe elne iiij s Summa—xviij s

Item, 4½ ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s; total: 18s.

Item thre elnis hollande claith to be hir curchayis þe elne xij s Summa—xxxvj s [847]

Item, 3 ells of Holland cloth to be kerchiefs for her, each ell 12s; total: 36s.

Master John Ra (Chaplain) Also called John Rais, he was given a full formal outfit of gown, coat, doublet, hose, and bonnet. Although the garments suggest a high rank, the fabric was middling to cheap in quality. February 1542/43 In the first the first day of februar deliuerit to maister Johnne Ra chaplane to my Lady gouernour to be him ane gowne and coit ix elnis quarter elne frenche blak, price of the elne xxxij s Summa—xiiij li xvj s

First, the first day of February, delivered to Master John Ra, chaplain to my lady governor, to be a gown and a coat for him, 9¼ ells of French black, price of each ell 32s; total: £14 16s.

Item deliuerit to him to be his dowblet thre elnis blak fustiane price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, delivered to him to be his doublet, 3 ells of black fustian, price of each ell 8s; total: 24s.

Item deliuerit to be his hois thre quarteris ½ quarter vterisfyne, price þairof—xxiiij s vj d

Item, delivered to be his hose, ⅞ ells of utterfine, price thereof 24s 6d.

Item deliuerit to him ane bonet, price—xvj s [12]

Item, delivered to him a bonnet, price 16s.

Margaret Hamilton (Maiden of the Chamber) Margaret being a very popular name in the Hamilton families, there are several candidates for the identity of this maiden. The most likely is the eldest daughter of Margaret Hamilton (daughter of John Hamilton of Newton) and Archibald Hamilton of Raploch, the Regent’s Master of Pantry.12 Also possible are the daughter of Margaret Campbell and Andrew Ham-

12

Hamilton, History, 735.

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ilton of Newton13 and the daughter of Sir Patrick Hamilton (she received £11 in 1547, but the reason is not given).14 Although Margaret was granted good-quality wool for a gown trimmed with velvet and supplied with lining and interlining, she was not also given a hood, as her colleague Bessie was. April 1552 Item quarto aprilis be my lord gouenouris speciale command and precept to besse hammyltoune and margaret hammyltoune madynnis to my lady viij elnis frenche blak to be þame gownis price of þe elne xl s Summa—xvj li

Item, April 4th, by my lord governor’s special command and precept, to Bessie Hamilton and Margaret Hamilton, maidens to my Lady, 8 ells of French black to be gowns for them, price of each ell 40s; total: £16.

Item four elnis and ane half welwet to bordour þir gownis to be þame paitclaithis and to be ane hude to besse hammyltoune price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—xv li xv s

Item, 4½ ells of velvet to border these gowns, to be partlets for them, and to be a hood for Bessie Hamilton, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £15 15s.

Item half ane elne of satin to lyne þe hude price þairof—xviij s

Item, ½ ell of satin to line the hood, price thereof 18s.

Item ix elnis gray to lyne þe gownis price of þe elne v s Summa—xlv s

Item, 9 ells of gray to line the gowns, price of each ell 5s; total: 45s.

Item tway elnis canves to lyne þe bodeis of þe samyn price þairof—vj s [708]

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of the same, price thereof 6s.

SERVA NTS TO THE R E GE NT ’S CHIL DR E N Effie (Keeper of Arran’s Children) This may be the same person as Euphemie Hamilton, who two years later was listed as a servant to Anne, the Regent’s daughter (see below). The word mantle tended to be used in the regency Accounts as part of foot-mantle, a cloth laid over the back of a horse.15 More generally, of course, a mantle could be a type of cloak.

13

Ibid., 561, 808. Paul, Accounts, 9:72. 15 For example, Paul, Accounts, 8:190, 239, 433, and several entries in subsequent volumes. See also 14

OED, s.v. “footmantle,” sense 2. Chaucer referred to a foot-mantle worn about the hips of the Wife of Bath, and this has occasioned much debate among Chaucerian scholars as to the nature of this item. The OED definition (sense 1) references this singular usage from the fourteenth century and



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June 1549 Item be his graces commande to Effe quha kepit his graces bairnys to by hir ane mantill—xxij s vj d [480]

Item, by his grace’s command, to Effie who kept his grace’s children, to buy her a mantle, 22s 6d.

John Hamilton (Keeper of Arran’s Children) A few entries previously, it is specified that this John Hamilton was son to the captain of the castle of Edinburgh ( James Hamilton, Lord of Stonehouse). The riot in Edinburgh during which his father and also his brother James were killed happened a few months after this entry.16 His brother Robert and their half-sister Elizabeth also received clothing via the regency Accounts (see pp. 00 and 00). John traveled to France with the Regent’s son and daughter, and his single grant consists of clothing for that journey: an outfit of cloak, coat, doublet, hose, and bonnet. These garments were eminently respectable, being made of good-quality wool and satin with trim of velvet and pullings-out of taffeta. July 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept to Jhonne hammiltoun at his departing as said Is tua elnis and ane half pareis blak to be him ane cote price of þe elne xl s Summa—v li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Hamilton at his departing, as noted, 2½ ells of Paris black to be a coat for him, price of each ell 40s; total: £5.

Item ane elne of blak welwote to bordour þis cote price—iiij li

Item, an ell of black velvet to border this coat, price £4.

Item thre elnis and ane quartar sating to be him ane doublat price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—v li x s vj d

Item, 3¼ ells of satin to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 34s; total: £5 10s 6d.

Item ane elne of stemmyng to be him hois price—xlv s

Item, an ell of stemming to be hose for him, price 45s.

follows it with citations from the nineteenth century and later. One recent scholar hypothesized that her foot-mantle was a set of loose leggings worn for riding; Peter G. Beidler, “Chaucer’s Wife of Bath’s ‘Foot-Mantel’ and Her ‘Hipes Large,’” Chaucer Review 34, no. 4 (2000): 389–91. However, the foot-mantles in these Accounts, though made of fabric, are usually grouped with saddles and reins and made by the saddler. It seems likely that they were not items of clothing but rather decorative horse-cloths. This does not preclude them being wrapped around the legs, though women had safeguards that served to protect them below the waist while riding. 16 Hamilton, History, 829.

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Item tua elnis taffate to draw furth þir hois—xxxij s

Item, 2 ells of taffeta to draw forth these hose, 32s.

Item x quartaris freis to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 2½ ells of frieze to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £4 10s.

Item ane bonet to him price—xxvj s [389]

Item, a bonnet for him, 26s.

SERVA NTS TO BA R BA R A H A MILTON, THE R EG ENT ’S E L DE ST  DAU GHTE R David Pook Also known as David Poak or Park, he seems to have mainly been concerned with Barbara’s travel arrangements—especially the care of her horses—and the carriage of her wardrobe from place to place. He was granted relatively cheap fabrics for coats, doublets, and hose plus bonnets. He (or perhaps his employer) seems to have favored pile gray for his coats, as he received it on three separate occasions. September 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to Dauid pook seruand to lady Barbara thre elnis pyle gray to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxs Summa— iij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to David Pook, servant to Lady Barbara, 3 ells of pile gray to be a coat for him, price of each ell 20s; total: £3.

Item tua elnis and ane half of fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item vj quarteris Inglische stemmyng to be him ane pair of hois þe elne xv s Summa— xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of English stemming to be a pair of hose for him, each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane bonet to him—xvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 16s.

Item for making and lyning of his clathis— xxij s [401]

Item, for making and lining of his clothes, 22s.



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March 1548/49 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Dauid pook seruand to ladye barbara siclik at þair passage to þe northlande foure elnis pyle gray to be him cote and hois price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to David Pook, servant to Lady Barbara, similarly at their passage to the northland, 4 ells of pile gray to be coat and hose for him, price of each ell 18s; total: £3 12s.

Item x quartaris blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item ane bonet to him—xvj s

Item, a bonnet for him, 16s.

Item to him to gif for lynnyng and making of þir clathis—xxij s vj d [457]

Item, for him to give for lining and making of these clothes, 22s 6d.

January 1549/50 Item to be ane cote to Pook ladye barbara seruande foure elnis pyle gray price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iij li xij s

Item, to be a coat for Pook, Lady Barbara’s servant, 4 ells of pile gray, price of each ell 18s; total: £3 12s.

Item x quartarris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item to him to by lynnyng to his clathis— xxij s vj d [523]

Item, for him to buy lining for his clothes, 22s 6d.

December 1551 Item xiiijo decembris be my lord gouernouris speciale command to dauid poak seruiture to my lady gordoune toby hyme claithis wt—iiij li [670]

Item, December 14th, by my lord governor’s special command, to David Pook, servant to my Lady Gordon, to buy himself clothes with, £4.

Elizabeth/Elspeth Douglas Although Elizabeth Douglas is characterized as Lady Barbara’s servant, it seems likely that she was a well-born young woman of the Regent’s wife’s family. She received materials that indicate a fairly high status, so perhaps she was more of a lady-in-waiting or maiden of the chamber than the label “servant” implies. It is also possible that there are two women of this name in the Accounts, and the entries not specifically designated as for Lady Barbara’s servant are for someone else.

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Elizabeth received a number of grants for good-quality wools and silks in the regency Accounts. Her gowns were of black taffeta, fine black wool (often bordered with velvet), and grosgrain, and two were edged with fur. Her kirtles tended to be of much cheaper fabric, implying that her gowns may have been worn closed so that the kirtles did not show. She also received a riding cloak, partlet, mufflers, and a hood with its accessories. After the death of Barbara’s first husband, Elizabeth was given two rounds of mourning clothes. September 1548 Item be my lord gouernourres spetiall command boucht at James barroun and gevin Elizabeth douglas to be hir ane goun ix elnis armosene taffate blak price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—xiiij li viij s [405]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, bought at James Barroun and given Elizabeth Douglas to be a gown for her, 9 ells of black armosene taffeta, price of each ell 32s; total: £14 8s.

December 1548 Item be my lorde gouernoures spetiall commande send to Elizabeth Douglas Lady Barbarais seruand In Striuiling ane elne of welwote to be hir missallis and paitlat price—iij li x s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, sent to Elizabeth Douglas, Lady Barbara’s servant in Stirling, an ell of velvet to be her mufflers and partlet, price £3 10s.

Item ane elne of sating to be hir bonegrace and quernettis—xxxvj s [421]

Item, an ell of satin to be her bongrace and cornets, 36s.

March 1548/49 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Elizabeth douglas seruande to ladye Barbara at hir departing In þe north cuntray wt hir said maistres iiij elnis fyne vnprest blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Elizabeth Douglas, servant to Lady Barbara, at her departing to the north country with her said mistress, 4 ells of fine unpressed black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item vj elnis lylis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 6 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £4 10s.

Item mair foure elnis blak to be hir ane ryding cloke þe elne xxviij s Summa—v li xij s

Item, 4 more ells of black to be a riding cloak for her, each ell 28s; total: £5 12s.

Item viij elnis blak gray to lyne þir clathis þe elne v s Summa—xl s [456]

Item, 8 ells of black gray to line these clothes, each ell 5s; total: 40s.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 619

January 1549/50 Item iiijto Januarii to Elizabeth douglas seruande to Lady Barbara vj elnis lylis worsit to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, January 4th, for Elizabeth Douglas, servant to Lady Barbara, 6 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £4 10s.

Item foure elnis franche blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xlij s Summa—viij li viij s

Item, 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 42s; total: £8 8s.

Item tua elnis welwote to begarye hir goun and kirtill and to be hir ane hude þe elne iij li xv s Summa—vij li x s [522]

Item, 2 ells of velvet to trim her gown and kirtle and to be a hood for her, each ell £3 15s; total: £7 10s.

December 1550 Item xxo Decembris be his g/ precept coft tobe ane govne to elspeth dowglas ix elnis growgrane price of þe elne xliiij s Summa—xix li xvj s

Item, December 20th, by his grace’s precept, bought to be a gown for Elspeth Douglas, 9 ells of grosgrain, price of each ell 44s; total: £19 16s.

Item to be hir ane pe iiij elnis franche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, to be a cloak for her, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item twa elnis fyne blak veluet to begary þis govne and pe price of þe elne iij li xij s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, 2 ells of fine black velvet to trim this gown and cloak, price of each ell £3 12s; total: £7 4s.

Item to Johonne Andersoune tailȝeour for making of þis govne and pe—xxxv s [627]

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of this gown and cloak, 35s.

January 1551/52 Item xiiijo Januarii be my lord gouernouris speciale command deliuerit to elspett dowglas tobe hir ane gowne foure elnis frenche blak price of þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, January 14th, by my lord governor’s special command, delivered to Elspeth Douglas to be a gown for her, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item vj elnis lylis worsett to be hir ane kirtyll price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, 6 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 16s; total: £4 16s.

Item ix elnis lynyng gray to þis gowne and kyrtyll price of þe elne v s Summa—xlv s

Item, 9 ells of lining gray for this gown and kirtle, price of each ell 5s; total: 45s.

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Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item vj quarteris welwett to bordour hir gowne price of þe elne iij li xv s Summa—v li xij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to border her gown, price of each ell £3 15s; total: £5 12s 6d.

Item deliuerit to hir ane hank of sewing gold to my lady gordoune price þairof— xxviij s [683]

Item, delivered to her a hank of sewing gold for my Lady Gordon, price thereof 28s.

December 1552 Item xxvijo decembris be his graces commande deliuerit to Jhone andersoun tailȝeour foure elnis fyne franche blak to be ane goun to Elizabeth Douglas þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, December 27th, by his grace’s command, delivered to John Anderson, tailor, 4 ells of fine French black to be a gown for Elizabeth Douglas, each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—ix s

Item, 2 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 9s.

Item iij quarteris fustiane to lyne þe bodyis of þe same þe elne iiij s Summa—iij s

Item, ¾ ell of fustian to line the bodies of the same, each ell 4s; total: 3s.

Item for glaspis to þe same—xij d

Item, for clasps for the same, 12d.

Item to Jhone elphinstoun for furring of þe same—xl s

Item, to John Elphinstone for furring of the same, 40s.

Item send to hir to Strabogye wt þis dule goune xiiij elnis hollande claith to be hir dule curchayis þe elne ix s Summa—vj li vj s [782]

Item, sent to her at Strathbogie with this mourning gown, 14 ells of Holland cloth to be mourning kerchiefs for her, each ell 9s; total: £6 6s.

April 1553 Item xv to Aprilis iij elnis thre quartarris vnprest blak deliuerrit to Elizabeth douglas to be hir ane dule cloke and ane skyrt þe elne xxxviij s Summa—vij li ij s vj d

Item, April 15th, 3¾ ells of unpressed black, delivered to Elizabeth Douglas to be a mourning cloak and a skirt, each ell 38s; total: £7 2s 6d.

Item ane elne of bukrum to lyne þis skyrt—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line this skirt, 4s.

Item for making of þis cloke and skyrt—v s [813]

Item, for making of this cloak and skirt, 5s.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 621

August 1553 Item be his graces precept to Elizabeth Douglas to be hir ane goun foure elnis vnprest blak þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, by his grace’s precept, to Elizabeth Douglas to be a gown for her, 4 ells of unpressed black, each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item half ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of þe same—xviij d

Item, ½ ell of canvas for the bodies of the same, 18d.

Item iij elnis gray to lyne þe same þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xiij s vj d

Item, 3 ells of gray to line the same, each ell 4s 6d; total: 13s 6d.

Item to ramsay tailȝeoure for making of þe same and glaspis to it—xv s

Item, to Ramsay, tailor, for making of the same, and for clasps for it, 15s.

Item to Jhone craig for edgeing of þe same wt armene—xxx s [833]

Item, to John Craig for edging of the same with ermine, 30s.

Jacobus Narratius (Tutor) Jacobus or Jacques was a Frenchman who traveled on the Regent’s business before entering service with Lord and Lady Gordon in March 1548/49.17 In November 1548, his grant of clothing includes the information that he “was ordained to wait upon his grace’s eldest daughter and my lord Gordon her spouse to teach and instruct them,” possibly in French, although that is not specified. He was given an unusual mix of items including a cloak and hose of good wool cloth, a doublet of cheap fustian, three shirts of cheap linen, and a bonnet of middling quality. Few outside the Regent’s immediate family received fabric for shirts, and it is odd that Jacobus was given a cloak but not a coat. November 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to his gracis seruitour Jacobus narratius francheman quha wes ordanit to await upoun his graces eldest douchter and my lord gordoun hir spous to lerne and instruct þame fyve elnis quartar and half quartar vnprest blak to be him ane cloik and hois price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa ix li xiij s vj d

Paul, Accounts, 9:243, 250, 251, 269, 291.

17

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s servant, Jacobus Narratius, Frenchman, who was appointed to wait upon his grace’s eldest daughter and my lord Gordon her spouse to teach and instruct them, 5⅜ ells of unpressed black to be a cloak and hose for him, price of each ell 36s; total: £9 13s 6d.

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Item xj quartaris fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne x s Summa xxvij s vj d

Item, 2¾ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 10s; total: 27s 6d.

Item to him ane blak bonet price—xviij s

Item, a black bonnet for him, price 18s.

Item xv elnis lyning claith to be him thre sarkis price of þe elne ij s Summa xxx s

Item, 15 ells of linen cloth to be three shirts for him, price of each ell 2s; total: 30s.

Item to Alexander robesoun tailȝeoure for lyninges and buttones to þir clathis and making of þame—xxxvij s [415]

Item, to Alexander Robesoun, tailor, for linings and buttons for these clothes and making of them, 37s.

Janet Kelly Aside from her single grant of clothing, Janet is only mentioned once in the regency Accounts.18 She received a gown, kirtle, partlet, and cloak. The gown was of good-quality wool trimmed with velvet, which was also used for the partlet, but the kirtle was of cheap camlet. The cloak of Scottish black fell in the middle. Scottish black was a wool fabric of mediocre quality, though this particular example was priced at the upper end of the range of examples of it found in the regency Accounts. September 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to his graces douchteris seruand Jonet kelle thre elnis and thre quartaris pareis blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxxvij s Summa—vj li xviij s ix d

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to his grace’s daughter’s servant Janet Kelly, 3¾ ells of Paris black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 37s; total: £6 18s 9d.

Item to be hir ane kirtill vij elnis and ane half vnwaterit champlat price of þe elne viij s Summa—lix s

Item, to be a kirtle for her, 7½ ells of unwatered camlet, price of each ell 8s; total: 59s.19

Item thre elnis and ane half scottis blak boucht at effame Dundas to be hir ane cloke price of þe elne xxiiij s Summa—iiij li

Item, 3½ ells of Scottish black bought at Euphemie Dundas, to be a cloak for her, price of each ell 24s; total: £4.20

Item ane elne of welwote to be hir ane paitlat and to wat hir goun—iiij li

Item, an ell of velvet to be a partlet for her and to trim her gown, £4.

Ibid., 9:242. She took delivery of some linen for Barbara. The total should be 60s. 20 The total should be £4 4s. 18

19



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 623

Item vij elnis gray to lyne hir goun and kirtill price of þe elne v s Summa—xxxv s

Item, 7 ells of gray to line her gown and kirtle, price of each ell 5s; total: 35s.

Item tua elnis reid to lyne þe sychtis of þir kirtillis—xxx s

Item, 2 ells of red to line the scyes of these kirtles, 30s.

Item ane elne of canves to þe bodyis of hir kirtill—iij s

Item, an ell of canvas for the bodies of her kirtle, 3s.

Item for making of þir clathis—xxxiiij s [403]

Item, for making of these clothes, 34s.

Marian Stewart (Servant and Keeper to Barbara Hamilton) The position of keeper in this context is equivalent to that of a governess. The servant in the first entries from 1543/44 is not identified, but of Barbara’s female attendants, these items fall closest in time to Marian’s entries. The first grant is for good-quality wool to be a gown and kirtle, both with cuffs and borders of ermine, plus a hood, muffler, bongrace, cornet, and partlet. The ermine suggests that the recipient had high rank. The second grant includes a similar list of garments, though made of slightly less expensive fabrics and substituting velvet trim for the ermine. February 1543/44 Item ane eln and half ane quarter welwot to be ane hude to hir gentill woman and mussell and bonegrace to þame baith pryce of þe elne iij li Summa—iij li vij s vj d

Item, 1⅛ ells of velvet to be a hood for her gentlewoman, and mufflers and bongraces for them both, price of each ell £3; total: £3 7s 6d.

Item tua elnis and ane quarter blak sating to be lynnyng to þair hudis quarnattis and patlottis pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa— iij li xij s

Item, 2¼ ells of black satin to be lining for their hoods, cornets, and partlets, price of each ell 36s; total: £3 12s.

Item foure elnis franche blak to be ane goun to hir said seruand pryce of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her said servant, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item thre elnis vter fyne to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxj s Summa—iiij li xiiij s

Item, 3 ells of utterfine to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 31s; total: £4 14s.

Item tua elnis canves to lyne þe bodyis of baith thir gounis and kirtillis pryce of þe elne xxxij d Summa—v s iij d

Item, 2 ells of canvas to line the bodies of both these gowns and kirtles, price of each ell 32d; total: 5s 3d.

62 4

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne of bukram to lyne þir paitlottis pryce—iiij s

Item, an ell of buckram to line these partlets, price 4s.

Item vij elnis gray to lyne þair kirtillis pryce of þe elne iij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 7 ells of gray to line their kirtles, price of each ell 3s; total: 21s.

Item tua elnis gray to lyne þair gownis pryce vj s viij d

Item, 2 ells of gray to line their gowns, price 6s 8d.

Item for cuffis & bordairis of fyne armyngis to þair saidis gownis & kirtillis, vj li

Item, for cuffs and borders of fine ermine for their said gowns and kirtles, £6.

Item for makin of þir foresaid clathis—[xx s]21

Item, for making of these aforesaid clothes, [20s.]

Item to ane boy þat tursit þame fra Edinburght to Striuiling—[ix s] [73]

Item, to a boy that carried them from Edinburgh to Stirling, [9s.]

February 1545/46

21

Item þe secund day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to Marioun stewart seruand & kepar of his gracis dauchter lady barbara at hir departing furth of Edinburt wt hir said maistres to þe north land viij elnis franche blake to be hir ane goun & ane kirtill price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—xiij li xij s

Item, the 2nd day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Marian Stewart, servant and keeper of his grace’s daughter, Lady Barbara, at her departing forth from Edinburgh with her said mistress to the northland, 8 ells of French black to be a gown and a kirtle for her, price of each ell 34s; total: £13 12s.

Item vj elnis lylis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—iiij li x s

Item, 6 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £4 10s.

Item tua elnis and ane half blak welwot to be hir hude and paitlat and to walt hir said goun and kirtill price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of black velvet to be a hood and partlet for her and to trim the said gown and kirtle, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £8 15s.

…

…

Item vij elnis reid to lyne þe sychtis of baith hir said maistres & hir gownis & kirtillis price of þe elne vij s Summa—xlix s

Item, 7 ells of red to line the scyes of both her said mistress’ and her gowns and kirtles, price of each ell 7s; total: 49s.

This total and the next were written on the part of the manuscript page that is now missing. The

totals in brackets are given in Paul, but it is likely that they were guesses.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 625

Item tuenty elnis gray to lyne þe over parttis of baith þe saidis lyfrayis price of the elne iij s iiij d Summa—iij li vj s viij d

Item, 20 ells of gray to line the overparts of both the said liveries, price of each ell 3s 4d; total: £3 6s 8d.

22 bodyis of baith [the sa]idis lyfr[ayis price] of þe elne iij s iiij d [Summa]—xvj s viij d

bodies of both [the sa]id liv[eries, price] of each ell 3s 4d; [total:] 16s 8d.

Item to Jhonne ?soun tailȝeour for making of baith the saidis lyfrayis as ane compt particularlie written heir present to schaw beris—viij li xiiij s

Item, to John ?son, tailor, for making of both the said liveries, as an account particularly written here present to show bears out, £8 14s.

…

…

Item for ane hors to marioun stewart at hir departing to þe nortland wt my lord gouernoris dochter—xvj li [189]

Item, for a horse for Marian Stewart at her departing to the northland with my lord governor’s daughter, £16.

Molly Stewart (Servant to Both Barbara and Jean) Although Molly Stewart is referred to in the listing of February 1547/48 as Barbara’s servant, in July she accompanied Barbara’s sister Jean to France, where Jean served as a companion to the young Queen Mary Stewart. Molly’s first grant was fairly comprehensive, as it included a hat, a tippet, and hose as well as a gown and kirtle. Like those for Elizabeth Douglas and Janet Kelly (both above), Molly’s gown was of good-quality wool trimmed in velvet, but the kirtle was of cheaper worsted, indicating that the gown was probably worn closed. Molly’s second grant was given for her journey to France and thus was likely intended to create a good impression there of the Scottish court. She received a damask gown with a train, a taffeta kirtle, and a matched set of satin gown and kirtle as well as a practical outfit of a wool riding gown and cloak. Also included were a velvet hood, bongrace, and partlet, another hat, very cheap linen for shifts, and much finer Holland cloth for necessities. February 1547/48 Item four elnis pareis blak to be male stewart seruande to lady barbara a goun þe elne xl s Summa—viij li

Item, 4 ells of Paris black to be a gown for Molly Stewart, servant to Lady Barbara, each ell 40s; total: £8.

Item vij elnis lylis worsat to be hir a kyrtill þe elne x s Summa—iij li x s

Item, 7 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, each ell 10s; total: £3 10s.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged.

22

626

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item ane elne of welwote to þis goun—iij li xv s

Item, an ell of velvet for this gown, £3 15s.

Item thre elnis of reid to be sychtis to hir maistres clathis and hir awyn þe elne vij s Summa—xxj s

Item, 3 ells of red to be scyes for her mistress’ clothes and her own, each ell 7s; total: 21s.

Item a hat to hir—xxij s

Item, a hat for her, 22s.

Item half elne of taffete to be a typpat—viij s

Item, ½ ell of taffeta to be a tippet, 8s.

Item ane elne vterfyne to be hir hois— xxxvj s

Item, an ell of utterfine to be her hose, 36s.

Item vj elnis bukrame to lyne þir clathes— xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to line these clothes, 24s.

Item to Jhonne andersoun talȝeour for making of þir clathis furnesing of silk & other necessares—iiij li viij s

Item, to John Anderson, tailor, for making of these clothes [and] furnishing of silk and other necessities, £4 8s.

Item In drinksiluer to his chylder—x s

Item, in drinksilver for his children,23 10s.

Item for tursing of þir clathis In ane coffer to striuiling—xliiij s [353]

Item, for packing of these clothes in a coffer to Stirling, 44s.

July 1548 Item þe same tyme to male stewart kepar of his graces douchter at hir departing to france to be hir ane goun wt ane taill xj elnis thre quartaris blak dalmes price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—xxij li vj s vj d

Item, the same time, to Molly Stewart, keeper of his grace’s daughter, at her departing to France, to be a gown with a train for her, 11¾ ells of black damask, price of each ell 38s; total: £22 6s 6d.

Item foure elnis thre quartaris gray taffate armosene to be hir ane kirtill wt slevis price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—viij li vj s iij d

Item, 4¾ ells of gray armosene taffeta to be a kirtle with sleeves for her, price of each ell 35s; total: £8 6s 3d.

Item foure elnis hollande claith to be hir certane necessares price of þe elne xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, 4 ells of Holland cloth to be certain necessities for her, price of each ell 16s; total: 48s.24

Item to be hir ane other goun and ane kirtill xiiij elnis blak sating price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—xxv li iiij s

Item, to be another gown and a kirtle for her, 14 ells of black satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £25 4s.

These “children” were Anderson’s apprentices. The total should be 64s.

23

24



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 627

Item to be hir hude paitlat and bonegrace vij quartaris fyne welwote price of þe elne iiij li Summa—vj li

Item, to be a hood, partlet and bongrace for her, 1¾ ells of fine velvet, price of each ell £4; total: £6.25

Item to bordoure þis goun ane elne of welwote—iiij li

Item, to border this gown, an ell of velvet, £4.

Item to lyne þe bodyis of hir hir gownnes & kirtillis xv elnis gray price of þe elne v s Summa—iij li xv s

Item, to line the bodies of her her gowns and kirtles, 15 ells of gray, price of each ell 5s; total: £3 15s.

Item xij elnis lynnyng to be hir sarkis price of þe elne xx d Summa—xx s

Item, 12 ells of linen to be shifts for her, price of each ell 20d; total: 20s.

Item ane hat to hir—xviij s

Item, a hat for her, 18s.

Item v elnis thre quartaris fyne pareis blak to be hir ryding goun and pe, price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—ix li viij s

Item, 5¾ ells of fine Paris black to be a riding gown and cloak, price of each ell 36s; total: £9 8s.26

Item to hir ane vnce blak silk—viij s

Item, an ounce of black silk for her, 8s.

Item thre elnis reid to lyne þe sychtis of hir kirtillis—xlv s

Item, 3 ells of red to line the scyes of her kirtles, 45s.

Item to lyne þe bodyis of hir saidis gownnes and kirtillis thre elnis canves price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s [390]

Item, to line the bodies of her said gowns and kirtles, 3 ells of canvas, price of each ell 4s; total: 12s.

A Lackey This anonymous retainer received one of the few display liveries in the regency Accounts in colors other than those of the house of Hamilton. His blue coat bordered with yellow and his blue bonnet were in the colors of Barbara’s husband, Lord Gordon.27 Although it was meant for public display, this livery was primarily made from very cheap fabrics. September 1552 Item be his grace speciale command coft thre elnis blew to be ane leveray coite and hois to ane allakey of my lady gordonis price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxxvj s

Item, by his grace’s special command, bought 3 ells of blue to be a livery coat and hose for a lackey of my lady Gordon’s, price of each ell 9s; total: 36s.

The total should be £7. The total should be £10 7s. 27 The Gordon arms are described in Sir David Lindsay’s Armorial of 1542 (see Chapter 3, note 61) 25

26

as “Azure, three boars’ heads couped Or.”

62 8

Part II: Wardr obe Bio gr aphie s

Item half ane elne Inglis ȝallow to bordour þe samyn price þairof—xijs

Item, ½ ell of English yellow to border the same, price thereof 12s.

Item v quarteris canves to be hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne iij s iiij d Summa—iiij s ij d

Item, 1¼ ells of canvas to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 3s 4d; total: 4s 2d.

Item gevin to hyme to by lynyng and to pay for making of þis leveray—xx s

Item, given to him to buy lining, and to pay for making of this livery, 20s.

Item for ane blew bonett to hyme price—iij s [746]

Item, for a blue bonnet for him, price 3s.

Unknown This gown, made of inexpensive Scottish cloth, was made for one of Barbara’s maidens of the chamber, probably one without the status to merit a higher-quality fabric yet dressed in a gown at the treasury’s expense to uphold the honor of the household. September 1553 Item iij elnis and ane quartar Scottis russat to be ane goun to ane of my Lady gordanis madynnes þe elne xviij s Summa—iij li vj d [850]

Item, 3¼ ells of Scottish russet to be a gown for one of my Lady Gordon’s maidens, each ell 18s; total: £3 0s 6d.28

SERVA NTS TO A NNE H A MILTON, THE R EG ENT ’S YOUNGE ST  DAU GHTE R Euphemie Hamilton This may be the same Euphemie (or Euphame) who had a child with the Regent’s son John in about 1564. She was one of the Hamiltons of Earnock (also spelled Ernock).29 Her first two grants were given so that she could be honorably attired to serve her mistress Anne, who was appointed a maiden of the chamber for Marie de Guise. Euphemie received a gown made of fabric from the Regent’s own wardrobe, a very respectable wool cloak bordered with velvet, a velvet partlet and hood, and hose as well as some conveniences and spending money to benefit Anne. Thereafter, she was given another gown, this one of good wool trimmed with velvet, a velvet hood and partlet, and two safeguards for riding. Once Euphemie and Anne were in the care of the dowager queen, Lady Fleming’s tailor The total should be £2 18s 6d. Hamilton, History, 313.

28

29



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 629

made several items for them.30 This anonymous tailor may have been favored by de Guise or perhaps simply more conveniently located. The final entry may be hose for Euphemie or it may be fabric for hose that Euphemie is to make for Anne. There is a similarly unclear grant of 16 ells of linen for shifts in Anne’s list [697]. December 1551: At this time, Anne was going to be a maiden of the chamber to the dowager Queen Marie de Guise. See her listing for December 1551 for the large wardrobe that was prepared for her. Item be my lord gouernouris speciale command to effame kepar to my lady anne at hir passing to þe quene to be hir ane pe foure elnis frenche blak price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Euphemie, keeper of my Lady Anne at her passing to the queen, to be a cloak for her, 4 ells of French black, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item thre elnis thre quarteris blak welwett to be hir ane hude partclayt and to bordour þis pe and ane gowne of […] gevin hir out of my lord gouernouris garderob be robert gourlay price of þe elne iij li x s Summa— xiij li ij s vj d

Item, 3¾ ells of black velvet to be a hood and partlet for her, and to border this cloak, and a gown of […] given to her out of my lord governor’s wardrobe by Robert Gourlay, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £13 2s 6d.

Item half ane elne and ane naile taffite to lyne þe hude price of þe elne xvj s Summa—ix s

Item, 9⁄16 ell of taffeta to line the hood, price of each ell 16s; total: 9s.

Item ane quarter and ane half bukcrame to hir said hude and partclayt price þairof xviij d

Item, ⅜ ell of buckram for her said hood and partlet, price thereof 18d.

Item half ane elne canves to lyne þe bodyis of hir gowne price þairof—xvj d

Item, ½ ell of canvas to line the bodies of her gown, price thereof 16d.

Item v elnis lynyng gray to hir gowne price of þe elne v s Summa—xxv s

Item, 5 ells of lining gray for her gown, price of each ell 5s; total: 25s.

Item deliuerit to þe said effame to sew hir maistres claithis with ane vnce and ane quarter vnce silk price of þe vnce viij s Summa—x s

Item, delivered to the said Euphemie to sew her mistress’s clothes with, 1¼ ounces of silk, price of each ounce 8s; total: 10s.

Item thre vnce birge threid price þairof— iij s

Item, 3 ounces Bruges thread, price thereof 3s.

It is possible that Lady Fleming was some relation to Anne’s elder sister Barbara’s second husband,

30

Lord Fleming, whom Barbara married in 1553. His mother might be a good candidate, although she had been in France since 1548. Paul, Peerage, 8:540.

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Item to þe said effame to by colis and certane vþeris necessaris to lady annis chalmer—iij li iij s

Item, to the said Euphemie to buy coals and certain other necessities for Lady Anne’s chamber, £3 3s.

Item ane watter poitt price þairof—vj s [671]

Item, a water pot, price thereof 6s.

January 1551/52 Item deliuerit to effame kepar to my lady anne tobe hir hois ane elne vter fyne price þairof—xxxiiij s [687]

Item, delivered to Euphemie, keeper of my Lady Anne, to be hose for her, an ell of utterfine, price thereof 34s.

April 1552 Item vj elnis bukcrame tobe wardegardis to hir and to hir kepar effame price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xxiiij s

Item, 6 ells of buckram to be safeguards for her and for her keeper Euphemie, price of each ell 4s; total: 24s.

Item tway elnis gray to þir wardegardis price of þe elne v s Summa—x s [703]

Item, 2 ells of gray for their safeguards price of each ell 5s; total: 10s.

December 1552 Item xijo Decembris be his graces command deliuerit to my lady flemynges tailȝeoure foure elnis & ane half franche blak to be ane goun to Effame hammiltoun kepar to ladye An þe elne xxxviij s Summa—viij li xj s

Item, December 12th, by his grace’s command, delivered to my Lady Fleming’s tailor 4½ ells of French black to be a gown for Euphemie Hamilton, keeper to Lady Anne, each ell 38s; total: £8 11s.

Item ane elne fyne blak welwote to bordour þe same—iiij li

Item, an ell of fine black velvet to border the same, £4.

Item vij quarteris of þe same welwott to be hir ane hude and paitlat—vij li

Item, 1¾ ells of the same velvet to be a hood and partlet for her, £7.

Item x quarteris gray to lyne þis goun þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—xj s iij d

Item, 2½ ells of gray to line this gown, each ell 4s 6d; total: 11s 3d.

Item iij elnis bukrum to be hir ane wairdegard price of þe elne iiij s Summa—xij s

Item, 3 ells of buckram to be a safeguard for her, price of each ell 4s; total: 12s.

Item to þe ladye flemynges tailȝeoure for making of ane goun of welwot to Ladye An & furnesing of silk glaspis & oþer small necessaris, And for making of þir clathis foresaid to Effame hammiltoun hir kepar conforme to his compte bill—lvj s [777]

Item, to the Lady Fleming’s tailor for making of a gown of velvet for Lady Anne and furnishing of silk, clasps, and other small necessities, and for making of these aforesaid clothes for Euphemie Hamilton, her keeper, conforming to his account bill, 56s.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 63 1

Item tua elnis small canves to þe bodyis of þis goun and to ane oþir goun to effame hir kepar þe elne iij s Summa—vj s [771]

Item, 2 ells of fine canvas for the bodies of this gown [for Anne] and for another gown for Euphemie, her keeper, each ell 3s; total: 6s.

February 1552/53 Item to Effame hammiltoun hir kepar ane elne stemmyng of myllane to be hir hois— xxxvj s [791]

Item, to Euphemie Hamilton, her keeper, an ell of stemming of Milan to be hose for her, 36s.

Gilbert Ruthven Gilbert often bought small items for Anne, and he took delivery of fabrics, suggesting that he was a servant of her chamber, perhaps responsible for the day-to-day management of supplies and conveniences.31 His first grant was for a full outfit of wool cloak, leather coat, fustian doublet, wool hose, and a bonnet. These items were a mixture of fair and cheap quality, befitting a servant of middling to low rank. This grant was his first mention in the regency Accounts, and it may be that he had just entered Anne’s service and needed to be suitably dressed. The sum he received for his second grant was less than a third of the value of the clothing given in the first one. February 1551/52 Item primo februarii be my lord gouernouris precept and speciale command deliuerit to gilbert ruthven seruitour to his graces doichter anne thre elnis frenche blak tobe hyme ane cloik price of þe elne xxxij s Summa—iiij li xvj s

Item, February 1st, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, delivered to Gilbert Ruthven, servant to his grace’s daughter Anne, 3 ells of French black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 32s; total: £4 16s.

Item tway burdeous skynnis to be hyme ane coit price of þe peice viij s Summa—xvj s

Item, two Bordeaux skins to be a coat for him, price of each piece 8s; total: 16s.

Item xj quarteris blak fustiane to be hyme ane dowblett price of þe elne viij s Summa—xxij s

Item, 2¾ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 8s; total: 22s.

Item ane elne vnprest blak tobe hyme hois price þairof xxxij s

Item, an ell of unpressed black to be hose for him, price thereof 32s.

Item to hym toby lyningis to þe samyn—x s

Item, to him to buy linings for this same, 10s.

Item for ane bonett to hyme—xij s [695]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 12s.

Paul, Accounts, 10:68, 70, 74–75, 97.

31

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July 1552 Item be my lord gouernouris speciale command to þe said gilbert to by hym self clathis—iiij li [737]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to the said Gilbert to buy himself clothes, £4.

John Forester John was born an Englishman but adopted Scotland as his home and took service with the Regent in 1549, sometimes serving as a spy.32 By October 1552, he had become a servant of Anne’s chamber, purchasing coals for heating and other items for her comfort and convenience.33 John’s first grant was given when he was still in service to Arran and consisted of a piece of excellent wool to be coat, cloak, and thighs of hose, similarly fine wool for legs of hose, and a mediocre bonnet. These were given two months after his spying expedition and may have been a reward for good service. Once he had transferred to Anne, he was given about a third of that value in cash, echoing the sequence of grants to Gilbert Ruthven (above), who was either his predecessor or his colleague. May 1550 Item to be ane cote and cloke to Jhonne forstar fyve elnis and ane half pareis blak price of þe elne xlvj s Summa—xij li xiij s

Item, to be a coat and cloak for John Forester, 5½ ells of Paris black, price of each ell 46s; total: £12 13s.

Item half ane elne of þe same blak to be him theis of hois—xxiij s

Item, ½ ell of the same black to be thighs of hose for him, 23s.

Item half ane elne of stemmyng to be schankis to þir hois—xxij s

Item, ½ ell of stemming to be legs for these hose, 22s.

Item ane bonet to him—xiiij s [579]

Item, a bonnet for him, 14s.

June 1553 Item be his graces spetiall commande to Jhone forstar seruitour to lady An to by him clathis with—v li vj s [819]

Ibid., 9:347, 360, 386. Ibid., 10:116, 206.

32 33

Item, by his grace’s special command, to John Forester, servant to Lady Anne, to buy himself clothes with, £5 6s.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 633

William Forester William only appears a few times in the regency Accounts. Like Gilbert Ruthven and John Forester (above), he was a servant of Anne’s chamber, buying coals and arranging for the transport of her belongings when she traveled.34 He was given an outfit of coat, cloak, hose, doublet, and bonnet in a range of middling to cheap fabrics similar to Gilbert’s first grant. December 1552 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande deliuerit to williame forstar seruitoure to ladye An fyve elnis and ane quarter vnprest blak to be him cloke cote and hois þe elne xxxv s Summa—ix li iij s ix d

Item, by my lord governor’s command, delivered to William Forester, servant to Lady Anne, 5¼ ells of unpressed black to be a cloak, coat, and hose for him, each ell 35s; total: £9 3s 9d.

Item vj quarteris lynyng gray to þis cote þe elne iiij s vj d Summa—vj s ix d

Item, 1½ ells of lining gray for this coat, each ell 4s 6d; total: 6s 9d.

Item tua elnis and ane half blak fustiane to be him ane doublat þe elne viij s Summa— xx s

Item, 2½ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, each ell 8s; total: 20s.

Item to þe said williame to by lynynges to his doublat & hois & to gif for þe making of þame—xx s

Item, to the said William to buy linings for this doublet and hose, and to give for the making of them, 20s.

Item ane bonet to him—x s [778]

Item, a bonnet for him, 10s.

S E RVA NTS TO JA M E S H A M ILTON, THE R E GE NT ’S E L DE ST SON James Hamilton of Orbiston James served the Regent in several capacities, but when Arran’s eldest son traveled to France in 1548, James Hamilton of Orbiston went with him (see p. 000).

Unknown These anonymous servants were attached to James Hamilton, Arran’s eldest son, who was also known as the Master of Hamilton or the Master of Arran. The first grant seems to be for particolored display livery in red and white similar to that worn by the Regent’s pages. This set of coat, doublet, and hose was made of inexpensive fabrics. The second is for a small amount of money—only two-thirds the value of the cheaply made display livery—that would have been sufficient for an outfit made of relatively low-quality materials. Ibid., 10:143.

34

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April 1545 Item þe xxv day of apprile be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to þe maister of hammiltonis seruand thre elnis reid and quhyte to be him ane cote price of þe elne of þe reid viij s price of þe elne of þe quhyte vij s Summa togydder—xxij s vj d

Item, the 25th day of April, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, for the Master of Hamilton’s servant, 3 ells of red and white to be a coat for him, price of each ell of the red 8s; price of each ell of the white 7s; total together: 22s 6d.35

Item v quarteris quhyte to be him ane pair of hois—x s vj d

Item, 1¼ ells of white to be a pair of hose for him, 10s 6d.

Item thre quarteris reid to be ane part of þe said hois price thairof—vj s

Item, ¾ ell of red to be a part of the said hose, price thereof 6s.

Item tua elnis and ane half fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne vij s Summa—xvij s vj d [136]

Item, 2½ ells of fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 7s; total: 17s 6d.

February 1545/46 Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to ane of þe said Maisterris seruandis to by him clathis—xliiij s [193]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to one of the said Master’s servants to buy him clothes, 44s.

S ERVA NTS TO DAVID H A MILTON, THE R E GE NT ’S SON Andrew Hamilton Andrew seems to have been a gentleman of the chamber. He purchased and took delivery of necessary items for David and arranged for the conveyance of his belongings when he traveled. Andrew was paid £10 per year for his services.36 His first grant of clothing included a full outfit of cloak, coat, doublet, hose (two pairs), and bonnet. Most of these were of mediocre quality, but the wool for the cloak was fairly good at 38s per ell. The total for this grant was nearly £17, but the later grants were much smaller.

1½ ells of each would come to this total. Paul, Accounts, 10:51, 159, 185, 194.

35

36



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 63 5

March 1549/50 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Andro hammiltoun seruand and kepar of his graces sone In dumfermling thre elnis franche blak to be him ane cloke price of þe elne xxxviij s Summa—v li xiiij s

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Andrew Hamilton, servant and keeper of his grace’s son in Dunfermline, 3 ells of French black to be a cloak for him, price of each ell 38s; total: £5 14s.

Item tua elnis color de roy to be him ane cote price of þe elne xxviij s Summa—lvj s

Item, 2 ells of color de roy to be a coat for him, price of each ell 28s; total: 56s.

Item ane elne of blak to be him ane pair of hois price—xxx s

Item, an ell of black to be a pair of hose for him, price 30s.

Item tua elnis & ane half blak fustiane to be him ane doublat price of þe elne ix s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 2½ ells of black fustian to be a doublet for him, price of each ell 9s; total: 22s 6d.

Item vj quartaris Inglische stemmyng to be him ane pair of dalye hois þe elne xv s Summa—xxij s vj d

Item, 1½ ells of English stemming to be a pair of everyday hose for him, each ell 15s; total: 22s 6d.

Item vj quartaris canves to lyne þe bodyis of his coit—vj s

Item, 1½ ells of canvas to line the bodies of his coat, 6s.

Item ane bonet to him—xx s

Item, a bonnet for him, 20s.

Item vij quartaris quhite to lyne his doublat þe elne iiij s Summa—vij s

Item, 1¾ ells of white to line his doublet, each ell 4s; total: 7s.

Item to him to by lynyngis to þe rest of his clathis and to pay for þe making of þame— xxix s [538]

Item, to him to buy linings for the rest of his clothes and to pay for the making of them, 29s.

February 1550/51 Item be my lord governouris precept and spetiale command to Androw hammiltoun seruitour to lord dauid to by him claithis wt—vj li xiij s iiij d [643]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Andrew Hamilton, servant to lord David, to buy himself clothes with, £6 13s 4d.

August 1552 Item be his grace speciale comand to andro hammyltoune seruitour to my lord gouernouris sone dauid in dumferling toby hyme clathis with—iiij li [741]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to Andrew Hamilton, servant to my lord governor’s son David in Dunfermline, to buy himself clothes with, £4.

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James Trale This single, small grant of money for clothing, which is half the size of the smallest of Andrew Hamilton’s grants (above), is the only mention of James Trale in the regency Accounts. August 1553 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande to James trale seruitour to his graces sone Dauid to by him clathis wt—xl s [832]

Item, by my lord governor’s command, to James Trale, servant to his grace’s son David, to buy himself clothes with, 40s.

S E RVA NT TO JA M E S H A M ILTON, SIR JA ME S OF F INNA RT ’S SON (THE R EG ENT ’S NE P HE W) Brady Although he was referred to as the servant of Sir James’s son in 1543, Brady had entered the service of the Regent’s eldest son (also named James Hamilton) by March 1546/47.37 His single entry for clothing was probably for the servant to buy himself clothes rather than to buy clothes for his master, but the wording is unclear. Even as a grant for Brady himself, the amount given was very small. November 1543 Item be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command gevin to brade seruand to James schir James soun be ane compt to by him clathis—xxij s [60]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, given to Brady, servant to James, Sir James’ son, by a warrant to buy himself clothes, 22s.

SERVA NTS TO THE BISHOP OF GL A SGOW These were men of the Bishop of Glasgow who helped carry powder, pikes, and other materials from a cart that broke by the gate of the castle of Linlithgow before making it safely inside. Welter or walter could be used to describe the overturning of a cart, and perhaps the cloaks caught on the cart and tore or were used as rough carrying sacks to transport the spilled contents. Walter could also mean water, and it is possible that the weather was stormy and the cloaks were used to protect the gunpowder from the rain.

Ibid., 9:64, 74.

37



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 637

June 1545 Item to tua of þe saidis men þat had þair clokis tane fra þame with þe walter—xv s [151]

Item, to two of the said men that had their cloaks taken from them with the welter, 15s.

SERVA NTS TO KING JA ME S V James Aytoune (Keeper of the King’s Dogs) As this was James’s only entry in the regency Accounts, it may have been a parting gift. February 1542/43 Item gevin to James aytoune keper of þe kingis doggis to by him claithis witht—xl s [13]

Item, given to James Aytoune, keeper of the king’s dogs to buy himself clothes with, 40s.

John Lowis (Fool) and His Keeper Lowis was the late king’s fool.38 He and his keeper were both granted mourning clothes on James V’s death, and Lowis also received hose and shirts in the same month, all of them made from relatively inexpensive fabrics. In these Accounts, a keeper was generally a servant who took care of someone who was underage or in ill health, but it also could have been used to mean one who cared for a person with a mental disability.39 If the latter was the case, Lowis might have been what was known as a “simple” fool rather than one valued for sharp wit or humor. January 1542/43 Item deliuerit to be ane dvill coit hois and huid to Johnne lowis v elnis quarter elne scottis blak price of the elne xx s Summa— v li v s

Item, delivered to be a mourning coat, hose, and hood for John Lowis, 5¼ ells of Scottish black, price of each ell 20s; total: £5 5s.

Item deliuerit to be ane coit and hois to his keper four elnis ½ elne scottis blak, price of þe elne xviij s Summa—iiij li xij d

Item, delivered to be a coat and hose for his keeper, 4½ ells of Scottish black, price of each ell 18s; total: £4 0s 12d.

Ibid., 8:46, 71. James, Women’s Voices, 17–18.

38

39

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Item deliuerit to be þame twa dowblettis v elnis ½ elne blak fustiane, price of þe elne v s Summa—xxvij s vj d

Item, delivered to be two doublets for them, 5½ ells of black fustian, price of each ell 5s; total: 27s 6d.

Item deliuerit to þame twa dvill bonettis, price of the pece xiij s Summa—xxvj s

Item, delivered to them two mourning bonnets, price of the piece 13s; total; 26s.

Item gevin to malcolm gourlaw for lynyng and making of þair saidis claithis and for lynyng and making of ane coit hois and dowblet to henry dempster—iiij li vij s iiij d [8]

Item, given to Malcolm Gourlay for lining and making of their said clothes and for lining and making of a coat, hose, and doublet for Henry Dempster; £4 7s 4d.

Item deliuerit to be Johnne lowis ane pair of hois ane elne scottis blak, price þairof— xx s

Item, delivered to be John Lowis a pair of hose, an ell of Scottish black, price thereof, 20s.

Item for lynyng and making þairof—iij s iiij d

Item, for lining and making thereof, 3s 4d.

Item gevin for xij elnis ½ elne round lynnyng tobe him sarkis deliuerit to his keper—xiiij s [34]

Item, given for 12½ ells of heavy linen to be shirts for him, delivered to his keeper, 14s.

Thomas Marshall (Master Cook) Thomas apparently did not stay on to serve the Regent, but he was given formal mourning garb after the death of his master the king, suggesting that he was involved in the funeral procession. January 1542/43 Item deliuerit to be ane dule gowne and huid to Thomas marschall maister cwke to our soverane lord quham god assolȝe vij elnis frenche blak price of the elne xxx s Summa—x li x s [6]

Item, delivered to be a mourning gown and hood for Thomas Marshall, master cook to our sovereign lord, whom God absolve, 7 ells of French black, price of each ell 30s; total: £10 10s.

OTHE R S This category includes spouses and children of members of Arran’s household, recipients of charity, and other miscellaneous people who do not fit in any other section. Most of them appear only once in the regency Accounts.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 639

Friar Alexander Lindsay and Friar Thomas Gilliam Friar Alexander was a noted mathematician and expert clockmaker. He may have been the same Alexander Lindsay who produced nautical charts and accompanied James V on his circumnavigation of Scotland in 1535.40 Friar Thomas, a Black (Dominican) Friar, may have been Arran’s chaplain for a time and earned the good opinion of John Knox. Both friars were known to be in favor of reforming the Church.41 The Accounts record one further gift of money to Friar Thomas in 1543.42 Although the clothing they were provided seems secular in nature, the garments mirrored the black-over-white of the Dominican habit and even included hoods. Hoods were not generally added to gowns, though they were part of most religious habits for men. These are the only riding gowns in the regency Accounts, suggesting that this might have been a special style devised for the friars to be reminiscent of their habits. February 1542/43 Item deliuerit to dauid leper to be ryding gownis witht hudis to freir thomas gilȝame and freir alexander lindsay xj elnis scottis blak, price of þe elne xx s Summa—xj li

Item, delivered to David Leper to be riding gowns with hoods for friar Thomas Gilliam and friar Alexander Lindsay, 11 ells of Scottish black, price of each ell 20s; total: £11.

Item deliuerit to be þame coittis xij elnis quarter elne scottis quhite, price of þe elne vj s Summa—iij li xiij s vj d

Item, delivered to be coats for them, 12¼ ells of Scottish white, price of each ell 6s; total: £3 13s 6d.

Item gevin for vj elnis braid quhite to lyne þe samin wt, price of the elne iij s vj d Summa—xxj s

Item, given for 6 ells of broad white to line the same with, price of each ell 3s 6d; total: 21s.

Item gevin for twa elnis canves to be þame ryding sokkis, price of þe elne ij s iiij d Summa—iiij s viij d

Item, given for 2 ells of canvas to be riding socks for them, price of each ell 2s 4d; total: 4s 8d.

Item gevin to him for making of all þe foresaidis claithis—xvj s iiij d [17]

Item, given to him for making of all the aforesaid clothes, 16s 4d.

Alexander Crawford Lindsay, Lives of the Lindsays; or A Memoir of the Houses of Crawford and

40

Balcarres, vol. 1 (London: John Murray, 1849), 219 n.

Ibid., and Knox, Works, 1:95–96 and 95 n. 3. 42 Paul, Accounts, 8:183. 41

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David Avery The Lyon was a ship,43 and that David was apparently not normally a sailor is suggested by his lack of “sea clothes.” There is no indication of why he was ordered to sail on the Lyon. May 1546 Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to Dauid avirre to by him se clathis quha was ordanit to pas in þe lyoun in weirfair—xxii s [203]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to David Avery to buy himself sea clothes, who was ordered to travel [serve?] in the Lyon in warfare, 22s.

Helen Curlaw Helen, a “daft wife,” may have been related to Janet Curllaw, a “fool” who received clothing in 1550 (below). Her grant of 57s was larger than many of those given to servants listed above. February 1546/47 Item to ane daft wyf In Linlithqw callit helene curlaw to by hir clathis—lvij s [274]

Item, to a daft wife in Linlithgow called Helen Curlaw to buy her clothes, 57s.

Daughter of Helen Ross Helen Ross was a silkwoman who supplied James V and the Regent with items such as silk reins, coin purses, and book covers. Although she has been described as an embroiderer,44 she dealt in many small items as well as the elaborate book covers for which she has been most noted.45 She also seems to have had a vexed relationship with the Regent, as another entry indicates: “Item be my lordis precept to helene ros to stanche hir bairdre and ewill toung—xx li” [Item, by my lord’s precept, to Helen Ross to stop her scurrility and evil tongue, £20].46 The Regent’s grant for her daughter’s wedding clothes, however, was very respectable.47 The Lyon was taken by the English before the end of May 1547 and appears in a list of English ships

43

44 45

in August; Bain, Calendar, 3–4, 7, 12.

For a brief discussion of Ross, see Alastair J. Mann, “Embroidery to Enterprise: The Role of Women

in the Book Trade of Early Modern Scotland,” in Ewan and Meikle, Women in Scotland, 137.

She made a very elaborate book covering and case for the regent from purple velvet, leather, silk

thread, and sewing gold (NRS E21/40/30v). See Maria Hayward, “The Interaction of Textile and Text: The Conservation of a Mid-16th-Century Chemise Binding,” in Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the Links between Archival and Object-based Research, ed. Maria Hayward and Elizabeth Kramer (London: Archetype, 2007), 222, regarding the possible intersection of silkwomen and book binding. 46 NRS E21/42/250v. This was prior to the entry for her daughter’s wedding clothes. 47 It was suggested by an attendee at the presentation of a paper including this information that the £20 may have been “hush money” and that it, together with the wedding gift, might indicate that



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 64 1

July 1549 Item be my lord gouernoures precept to helene ros to by clatis to hir dochter at hir mariage—xxij li x s [484]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept to Helen Ross to buy clothes for her daughter at her marriage, £22 10s.

Wife of Master Henry Lauder Henry Lauder was an advocate, or lawyer, for the Regent and for King James V before him. His wife was given some very fine fabrics. Seven ells of Paris black was enough to make a gown and cloak [see 162], and two ells of velvet could have trimmed them both. Taffeta of Genoa was often used for linings but could be made into tippets as well. February 1544/45 Item þe ferd day of februar be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command boucht to maister henry lauderris wyf vij elnis fyne parys blak price of þe elne Lv s Summa—xix li v s

Item, the 3rd day of February, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, bought for Master Henry Lauder’s wife, 7 ells of fine Paris black, price of each ell 55s; total: £19 5s.

Item boucht to hir be þe samyn precept tua elnis blak welwot price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—vij li

Item, bought for her by the same precept, 2 ells of black velvet, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £7.

Item thre elnis taffate of genis price of þe elne xviij s Summa—liiij s [112]

Item, 3 ells of taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 18s; total 54s.

Daughter of Master Henry Lauder Henry’s daughter was granted fabrics the month after her mother (above) and a nice sum of money for her wedding clothes several years later. Her first grant was of relatively inexpensive fabrics aside from the velvet, and they were likely intended for a camlet gown with velvet trim and a worsted kirtle. March 1544/45 Item þe xx day of marche be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to maister henry laderris douchter vj elnis chamlot pryce of þe elne xiiij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, the 20th day of March, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Master Henry Lauder’s daughter, 6 ells of camlet, price of each ell 14s; total: £4 4s.

Helen Ross’s daughter was the Regent’s illegitimate child, or at least that Helen claimed she was. There is no proof for this, but it is an interesting speculation.

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Item be þe samyn precept fyve elnis lylis worsat price of þe elne xv s Summa—iij li xv s

Item, by the same precept, 5 ells of Lille worsted, price of each ell 15s; total: £3 15s.

Item half ane elne of welwot price—xxxv s [123]

Item, ½ ell of velvet, price 35s.

November 1552 Item be his grace speciale command to […] lawder doichter to þe aduocate to by hir clathis witht agane hir mariage—xxx li [764]

Item, by his grace’s special command, to […] Lauder, daughter to the advocate, to buy herself clothes with for her marriage, £30.

Henry Wardlaw Wardlaw was the clerk who wrote an inventory of the late king’s wardrobe, though it is not clear exactly which one.48 While this entry does not grant him any clothing, it is an item of interest to put a name to the person who labored to create a document so useful to clothing historians. February 1542/43 Item gevin to henry Wardlaw for þe writing of þe Inventour buke of all þe kingis clething jewellis & vþer gere for his labouris—xl s [18]

Item, given to Henry Wardlaw for the writing of the inventory book of all the king’s clothing, jewels, and other gear, for his labors, 40s.

Janet Curllaw (a Fool in Linlithgow) Although Janet Curllaw appears only once in the regency Accounts, her kirtle of russet trimmed with red and white sounds very much like the display livery given to the Regent’s pages. July 1550 Item be my lorde gouernoures commande tua elnis and ane half rwssat to be ane kirtill till ane fule In Linlytgw callit Jonet curllaw ls

Item, by my lord governor’s command, 2½ ells of russet to be a kirtle for a fool in Linlithgow called Janet Curllaw, 50s.

Item for reid and quhite to wane þis kirtill gray to lyne it canves to þe bodyis of it—xix s ix d [603]

Item, for red and white to trim this kirtle, gray to line it, canvas for the bodies of it, 19s 9d.

See Harrison, Inventories, 1 and 5–9, for details regarding the different inventories that were made.

48



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 643

Janet Legs Janet, called in a grant of August 1546 by what was probably a nickname, was at that time given a kirtle with a hood. This unusual feature, along with the description of her as a “bard hussy,” suggests that she was an entertainer, perhaps even a fool. It is possible that she was Janet Curllaw (above) by another name. The hood is particularly evocative of the fool’s profession. The Regent’s fool Robesoun (see p. 000) had a hood [810], as did Henry VIII’s fool Will Somers (fig. 6), and of course the quintessential sign of a fool in this period was the hood with ass’s ears.49 The green of Janet’s kirtle of 1546 may have been related to the green coat given to Robesoun in November of that year, or they both may have been examples of a tradition of dressing fools in green. Green was a very uncommon color for clothing at this time and place—only two other examples appear in the regency Accounts, one of them as an underbodice that would not have been visible when worn and the other dubious due to degradation of the manuscript. During the previous reign, however, Marie de Guise had a female fool who often had green gowns or kirtles50 in addition to clothing in King James’s heraldic colors.51 If Janet Curllaw and Janet Legs were the same person, the shift in her clothing from green to display livery in the Regent’s colors roughly mirrored that of Robesoun’s wardrobe. The Jonet of the March 1544/45 grant might or might not have been Janet Legs. The grant of a single kirtle was fairly unusual, however, and the fact that there were two such grants within a relatively small span of time suggests that Jonet and Janet Legs were one and the same person. March 1544/45: This may or may not be the same Janet as the August 1546 entry. Item þe samyn day be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to funde Jonet to by hir ane kirtill—L s [120]

Item, the same day by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to fund Janet to buy her a kirtle, 50s.

August 1546 Item þe xxviijto augustj be my lord gouernoris precept and spetiall command to ane bayrd husse callit Jonet schankis foure elnis & ane half of grene to be hir ane hude wt ane kirtill wt ane hwde price of þe elne vij s Summa—xxxi s vj d

49

Item, the 28th of August, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to a bard hussy called Janet Legs 4½ ells of green to be a hood with a kirtle for her with a hood, price of each ell 7s; total: 31s 6d.

See, for example, a stained glass window (ca. 1553; Musée du Louvre, Paris), online at https://www.

photo.rmn.fr/archive/12-516400-2C6NU0ZYKT40.html (accessed Oct. 3, 2017), and Hans Sebald Beham’s engraving of a Dancing Fool (1549, Musée du Louvre, Paris), online at https://www.photo. rmn.fr/archive/04-506149-2C6NU00QP6HU.html (accessed Oct. 3, 2017). 50 Paul, Accounts, 6:418, 435, 7:102, 151. 51 Ibid., 7:115, 8:76.

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Item vj quartaris of gray to lyne þe bak quartaris of it—iiij s

Item, 1½ ells of gray to line the back quarters of it, 4s.

[Item] 52 [elnis ca]nves to þe body of þe said [kirtle price of þe elne] [Summa]—ij s iiij d

[Item] [ells of ca]nvas for the body of the said [kirtle, price of each ell] [total:] 2s 4d.

[Item for the ma]king of it—iiij s [213]

[Item, for the ma]king of it, 4s.

John Cornell This is John’s only entry in the regency Accounts, and it is unfortunately not informative. The sum he was given for clothing was relatively small—less than the amount given to either of the Janets above to buy a kirtle. July 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept to Jhonne cornell to by him clathis—xlv s [388]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Cornell to buy himself clothes, 45s.

John Hamilton of Ardoch (Son of the Master of Entry) This John was son to Katherine Park and Andrew Hamilton of Ardoch; the latter was made principal porter and Master of Entry in 1543.53 The £10 he was given for a livery was comparable to several of the Regent’s servants on the lower end of the scale: his grooms of the chamber, laundress, and fool. As was usual, the mourning clothing he was given to uphold the honor of the household was more expensive, costing nearly £15. June 1548 Item be my lorde gouernoures precept to Jhonne hammiltoun sone and air to Andro hammiltoun of Ardouch maister of entre to my lord gouernour to by him ane lyfray—x li [385]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept, to John Hamilton, son and heir to Andrew Hamilton of Ardoch, master of entry to my lord governor, to buy him a livery, £10.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. Anderson, Memoirs, 461.

52 53



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 645

May 1550: This was part of the general household mourning for Marie de Guise’s father. Item thre elnis and ane half of þe foresaid prest blak to be ane cloke to Jhonne hammiltoun of Ardouche sone to þe maister of entre þe elne xlvj s Summa—viij li xij d

Item, 3½ ells of the aforesaid pressed black to be a cloak for John Hamilton of Ardoch, son to the master of entry, each ell 46s; total: £8 0s 12d.

Item to be ane cote to him tua elnis franche blak price of þe elne xlij s Summa—iiij li iiij s

Item, to be a coat for him, 2 ells of French black, price of each ell 42s; total: £4 4s.

Item thre quartaris of þis same blak to be him theis of hois price of þe elne xlij s Summa xxxj s vj d

Item, ¾ ell of this same black to be thighs of hose for him, price of each ell 42s; total: 31s 6d.

Item half ane elne of stemmyng to be him schankis of hois—xxij s [566]

Item, ½ ell of stemming to be legs of hose for him, 22s.

Sir John Wilson This grant was a reward for a specific service performed, but it is interesting that the grant was for a particular amount and type of cloth rather than simply a lump sum. September 1548 Item be my lord gouernoures precept and spetiall command to ane pure chaiplane callit Schir Jhonne Wilsoun quhilk said mes to his grace þe tyme of þe assege of Hadingtoun fyve elnis and ane half of scottis claith þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li viij s [402]

Item, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to a poor chaplain called Sir John Wilson, which said mass for his grace at the time of the siege of Haddington, 5½ ells of of Scottish cloth, each ell 16s; total: £4 8s.

Marion Ogilvy? (Wife of Archibald Hamilton of Raploch) Archibald Hamilton of Raploch (the Regent’s Master of the Pantry) married twice, first to Marion Ogilvy and second to Margaret Hamilton, daughter of John Hamilton of Newton.54 It is not clear which wife this was, but she got a considerable sum of money for clothing.

Johnston, Heraldry, 62.

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October 1545 Item be my lord gouernoris spetiall command to archibald hammyltoun of roplochis wyfe to by hir claythis—xxvj li xiij s iiij d [168]

Item, by my lord governor’s special command, to Archibald Hamilton of Raploch’s wife to buy herself clothes, £26 13s 4d.

Nans Crawford (Wife of Andrew Hamilton, Captain of Dumbarton55) Nans’s grant was for a gown of good fabric and a kirtle of cheap cloth that was nonetheless decorated with much more expensive velvet. January 1546/47 Item, xto Januarii be my lorde gouernoures precept and spetiall commande to Nans crauffurde spous of Andro hammiltoun Capitane of Dumbertane foure elnis franche blak to be hir ane goun price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, January 10th, by my lord governor’s precept and special command, to Nans Crawford, spouse of Andrew Hamilton, captain of Dumbertane, 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item be þis same precept sevin elnis lylis worsat to be hir ane kirtill price of þe elne xv s Summa—v li xv s

Item, by this same order, 7 ells of Lille worsted to be a kirtle for her, price of each ell 15s; total: £5 15s.56

Item half ane elne and ane half of welwote to begarye þis kirtill price of þe elne iij li Summa—iiij li x s [264]

Item, 1½ ells of velvet to decorate this kirtle, price of each ell £3; total: £4 10s.57

Pannycuke This moment of charity to a poor boy (whom Paul styles Pennicuik) reveals the lowest stratum of society represented in the regency Accounts. The coat, shirt, and breeches that could be bought for 20s would have been cheap but serviceable. Alternatively, Malcolm Gourlay might have bought them secondhand.

Hamilton, History, 247; Merriman, Rough Wooings, 214–15. Merriman identifies the Andrew

55

Hamilton who was assigned captain of Dumbarton in 1546 as the same who was formerly captain of Linlithgow (listed in Paul, Accounts, 8:559, as Andrew Hamilton of Lethame but indexed separately in 9:541). 56 The total should be £5 5s. 57 These latter two line items, worded slightly differently but with the same content, appear crossed out in February’s section.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 647

February 1542/43 Item gevin to malcolme gourlaw for ane coit sark and brekis furnesit be him to ane puir boy callit pannycuke at my lord gouernoures command—xx s [16]

Item, given to Malcolm Gourlay for a coat, shirt, and breeches, furnished by him to a poor boy called Pannycuke at my lord governor’s command, 20s.

William Hill’s Wife William was a smith and gunner at Edinburgh castle and also received clothing via the regency Accounts (see p. 000). His wife was given good French wool for a gown and velvet to trim it. October 1552 Item vjo octobris be his grace precept deliuerit to williame hillis wife foure elnis frenche blak to be hir gowne price of þe elne xxxvj s Summa—vij li iiij s

Item, October 6th, by his grace’s precept, delivered to William Hill’s wife 4 ells of French black to be a gown for her, price of each ell 36s; total: £7 4s.

Item ane elne of blak welwett to bordour þe samyn price þairof—iij li x s [755]

Item, an ell of black velvet to border the same, price thereof £3 10s.

Two Minstrels and Workmen Galdcloaks were apparently suitable for people of various professions and were also known as galcoits, galdcots, and in several other spellings. The suffixes -cloke and -coit suggest a visible upper garment, but their exact description remains obscure. They only occasionally appear in the texts of the period. The record of a court case of April 1539 mentions a “gal coit” worth 14s and one of 1541 a “galkoit” of stemming worth 10s.58 The Accounts of the 1520s and 30s list a few of velvet and tartan.59 October 1547 Item to James hammiltoun galdclokes to be gevyn to tua menstrallis and to þe warkmen of þe quennis wark in Striuiling—iiij li viij s [336]

58

Item, to James Hamilton, galdcloaks to be given to two minstrels and to the workmen of the queen’s work in Stirling, £4 8s.

John Stuart, ed. Extracts from the Council Register of the Burgh of Aberdeen, 1398–1570, vol. 1 (Aberdeen:

William Bennett, 1844), 161, 175.

Paul, Accounts, 5:256, 6:79–80.

59

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The Fool of Craigmillar This grant might have been an act of charity given to a “simple” fool, but it could also have been a reward for entertainment. It is interesting that he was given a piece of fabric earmarked for a specific purpose rather than simply a sum of money. October 1549 Item xvo Octobris to be ane coit to þe þe fule of craigmyllar ane coit foure elnis and ane half reid cairsay þe elne vij s—xxxj s vj d [505]

Item, October 15th, to be a coat for the fool of Craigmillar, 4½ ells of red kersey, each ell 7s; [total:] 31s 6d.

A Poor Scholar This anonymous scholar received two almost identical gifts of money for clothes given exactly a year apart. The sum would have been sufficient for a full outfit if the fabrics and making were cheap. January 1547/48 Item be his graces commande to ane pure scholar In Glasgw to by him clathis—­ xliiij s [347]

Item, by his grace’s command, to a poor scholar in Glasgow to buy himself clothes, 44s.

January 1548/49 Item to ane pure scholar in glasgw to by him clathis—xlv s [434]

Item, to a poor scholar in Glasgow to buy himself clothes, 45s.

Three French Pages These three pages are sadly anonymous, but the Regent took care to fit them out properly before sending them home, no doubt in order to uphold the dignity of Scotland in the eyes of her most important ally. They received full outfits of cloaks, coats, doublets, shirts, hose, and bonnets, and the fabrics they were given were of good quality and included some silk. In addition to the clothing, the Regent provided them with a fair sum of spending money.



Servan ts to O ther s and Mis cel l aneo u s Peopl e 649

June 1543 In the first the secund day of Junij deliuerit to malcolme gourlaw to be clokis to thre frenche pageis now passing to france vij elnis ½ elne blak freis, price of þe elne xxxv s Summa—xij li v s

First, the 2nd day of June, delivered to Malcolm Gourlay to be cloaks for three French pages now passing to France, 7½ ells of black frieze, price of each ell 35s; total: £12 5s.60

Item deliuerit to be þame dowblettis vij elnis ½ elne blak sating, price of the elne xxxvj s Summa—xiij li x s

Item, delivered to be doublets for them, 7½ ells of black satin, price of each ell 36s; total: £13 10s.

Item deliuerit to him to be þame hois thre elnis thre qurteris gray stemmyng, price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iij li

Item, delivered to him be hose for them, 3¾ ells of gray stemming, price of each ell 16s; total: £3.

Item deliuerit to him to draw þame w t v elnis purpuir teffites of Janis, price of þe elne xvj s Summa—iiij li

Item, delivered to him to draw them with, 5 ells of purple taffeta of Genoa, price of each ell 16s; total: £4.

Item deliuerit to þame thre blak bonettis price of þe pece xvj s Summa—xlviij s

Item, delivered to them three black bonnets, price of each piece 16s; total: 48s.

Item for v elnis gray to be þame coittis, price of þe elne x s Summa—l s

Item, for 5 ells of gray to be coats for them, price of each ell 10s; total: 50s.

Item gevin for xij elnis lynnyng clayt to be þame sarkis, price of þe elne xx d Summa— xx s

Item, given for 12 ells of linen cloth to be shirts for them, price of each ell 20d; total: 20s.

Item gevin to malcolme gourlaw for lynyng furnesit be him to þe foresaidis claithis and making þairof as his compt beris—xlv s

Item, given to Malcolme Gourlay for lining furnished by him for the aforesaid clothes and making thereof, as his account shows, 45s.

Item gevin to þame in money to þair furnesing—xix li xvj s [44]

Item, given to them in money for their furnishing, £19 16s.

Unknown Unfortunately, damage to the manuscript has obscured the name of the recipient of these items, which include a cloak and coat made of good wool bordered with velvet and a highquality bonnet. The total should be £13 2s 6d. The total given would be correct if the number of ells were 7 instead

60

of 7½.

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May 1545 61 vj elnis and ane half of paris? black? to be him ane cloke and ane cote price of þe elne xxxiiij s Summa—[xj li j s]

6½ ells of Paris? black? to be a cloak and a coat for him, price of each ell 34s; total: [£11 1s.]

Item tua elnis and and half of welwot to bordour the said cloke and cote price of þe elne iij li x s Summa—viij li xv s

Item, 2½ ells of velvet to border the said cloak and coat, price of each ell £3 10s; total: £8 15s.

Item foure elnis gray to lyne þis cote price of þe elne iij s Summa—xij s

Item, 4 ells of gray to line this coat, price of each ell 3s; total: 12s.

Item ane vnce and ane half of paris sylk to sew þe bordouris of þe said cloke and cote price of þe elne xxxiiij s vnce x s Summa— xv s

Item, 1½ ounces of Paris silk to sew the borders of the said cloak and coat, price of each ell 34s62 ounce 10s; total: 15s.

Item for ane bonet to him—xxiiij s [143]

Item, for a bonnet for him, 24s.

CONCLU SION This extremely varied collection of people represents a wide range of social status and wealth, from a poor boy receiving a bit of charity to a lady-in-waiting with ermine trim on her gown. The disparity may be best expressed with numbers: Pannycuke’s gift of £1 for coat, shirt, and breeches versus Molly Stewart’s grant of £73 15s 9d for a wardrobe of silks to uphold Scotland’s honor in France. The humbler end of the social spectrum, missing from so many contemporary sources, show their faces here, albeit briefly in most cases. Their clothing, of the same type as those higher on the ladder but cut of more economical cloth, reveals their status. A few received surprisingly fine fabrics, such as the wife of smith and gunner William Hill, whose gown of good-quality wool was trimmed with velvet. This collection also encompasses some of the many different groups that gave sixteenth-century Scottish culture texture and depth, from scholars to clergy to fools. Their variety makes them difficult to analyze as a group, but their individual stories bring to light the way in which costume biographies—even brief ones—can offer a window into the lives of those far removed from the modern context.

This portion of the manuscript is damaged, and part of it is missing. The clerk mistakenly started copying a price per ell from a previous line item. This line item should

61

62

read “Item, 1½ ounces of Paris silk to sew the borders of the said cloak and coat, price of each ounce 10s; total: 15s.”

Appendices

Appendix 1

Sample Precept by the Earl of Arran What follows is an example of the way that the Earl would authorize expenditures and transfers of goods. It is his written permission for some of the wardrobe of the late King James V to be given to others, and several other precepts with similar contents follow in the original manuscript. The Scottish text is from a transcription by John Harrison.1 The translation and organization are the author’s.

1



HEREAFTER FOLLOWETH THE KINGIS GRACE GEIR QUHAM GOD ASSOLIE DELIVERIT BE JOHNNE TENNENT BE MY LORDIS GOVERNOR AND REGENTIS PRECEPTIS OFF THE QUHILKIS THE TENOR FOLLOWIS RESPECTIVE.

HEREAFTER FOLLOWS THE KING’S GRACE’S GEAR, WHOM GOD ABSOLVE, DELIVERED BY JOHN TENNENT BY MY LORD GOVERNOR AND REGENT’S PRECEPTS OF THE WHICH THE TENOR FOLLOWS RESPECTIVE.

My Lord Earl of Morray

My Lord Earl of Moray

Johnne Tennent I charge zow incontinent this precept sene ye deliver to Thomas Stewart servand to the earle of Morray this geir followand of the quhilkis I sall werrand zou at the handis of all personis quhatsumever In the first ye sall deliver the said Thomas at my command and charge

John Tennent, I charge you immediately upon seeing this precept to deliver to Thomas Stewart, servant to the Earl of Moray, this gear following, of the which I shall warrant you at the hands of all persons whatsoever. In the first, you shall deliver the said Thomas at my command and charge

Ane nyt goun of purpor dammas lynit with martrik saballis.

A night gown of purple damask lined with marten sables.

Harrison, “Inventories,” 41–3. This publication, available online at http://sparc.scran.ac.uk/publications/ pdfs/L2 wardrobe inventories of james v.pdf (accessed Oct. 15, 2017), is a recent re-transcription of the inventories also published by Thomas Thomson in A Collection of Inventories and Other Records of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewelhouse; and of the Artillery and Munitioun in some of the Royal Castles (Edinburgh, 1815), with commentary and additional transcribed material.

6 5 4

2



Appendix 1

Ane coit of blak velvot with ane small frenzie of gold lynit with blak taffateis with sex buttonis of gold of gold smyt werk in the breist & blak anamelit.

A coat of black velvet with a small fringe of gold lined with black taffeta with six buttons of gold of goldsmith work in the breast and black enamelled.

Ye sall seliver ane raippeir orgilt upoun the gairdis to the said Thomas.

You shall deliver a rapier over-gilt upon the guards to the said Thomas.

And ye sall deliver to him thre pair of hois of blak velvot cuttit out upoun blak taffateis.

And you shall deliver to him three pairs of hose of black velvet cut out upon black taffeta.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane dowblat of blak velvot cuttit out upoun blak taffateis.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a doublet of black velvet cut out upon black taffeta.

Ane uther dowblat of blak satyn cuttit out upoun blak taffateis.

Another doublet of black satin cut out upon black taffeta.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane short coit of blak velvot with taffattis with ane small walting trace of gold with buttonis of sewing gold in the breist furrit with quhite lampskynnis and harit with martrikis.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a short coat of black velvet, with taffeta, with a small welting trace of gold, with buttons of sewing gold in the breast, furred with white lambskins and haired with marten.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane hugtoun of blak velvot all the haill body set or with small buttonis of gold of gold smyt werk and on the breaist of it ten greit buttonis of gold of gold smyt werk.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas an aketon2 of black velvet all the whole body set over with small buttons of gold of goldsmith work and on the breast of it ten large buttons of gold of goldsmith work.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane short cassok goun of sad crammessy velvot with ane walting pasment of gold lynit with lucerds.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a short cassock gown of dark crimson velvet with a welting passementerie of gold, lined with lynx.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas thre pair of shone of blak velvot.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas three pairs of shoes of black velvet.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane uther nyt goun of crammasy dammas lynit with martrickis with ane small varne of velvot.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas another night gown of crimson damask lined with marten, with a small vane of velvet.

Aketon, also hacqueton: padded torso garment worn under armor. See Ralph Moffat, “Aketon,” in OwenCrocker, Coatsworth, and Hayward, Encyclopedia, 29–30.



S a mpl e Precept by the E arl of Arr an 6 5 5

3



Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane coit of ledder with tracis of gold.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a coat of leather with traces of gold.

Ye sall deliver to him ane dowblat of crammessy satyn with (cras?tis).

You shall deliver to him a doublet of crimson satin with traces?.

& ane uther dowblat of stickit variant taffateis

and another doublet of stitched variegated taffeta

with ane coit of blak taffateis lynit with powtis of todds and harit with martrak.

with a coat of black taffeta lined with fox paws3 and haired with marten.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane the kingis Ryding swerd with his best half lang swerd.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas one of the king’s Riding swords with his best half-length sword.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas an heyt neckit goun of blak velvot lynit with blak satyn furnisit with xx pair of hornis Of gold quhite anamelit on the (heid) the said goun havand ane small frenzie of gold.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a high-necked gown of black velvet lined with black satin furnished with 20 pairs of aglets of gold, white enameled on the head, the said gown having a small fringe of gold.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane dowblatt of purpor velvot cuttit out upoun purpor taffateis with ane small walting trace of gold.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a doublet of purple velvet cut out upon purple taffeta with a small welting trace of gold.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane uther dowblat of crammessy satyn with ane walting trace of satin cuttit out upoun reid taffateis.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas another doublet of crimson satin with a welting trace of satin cut out upon red taffeta.

Ye sall deliver to said ane pair of hois of sad crammesy velvot cuttit out upoun clayt of gold with small thradis of gold doun the theis.

You shall deliver to [the] said [Thomas] a pair of hose of dark crimson velvet cut out upon cloth of gold with small threads of gold down the thighs.

Ye sall deliver to the said Thomas ane pair of hois of purpor velvot cuttit out upoun clayt of gold frenzeit with silver.

You shall deliver to the said Thomas a pair of hose of purple velvet cut out upon cloth of gold fringed with silver.

This refers to the fur from the backs of the paws, which would have been stitched together into a lining; see Veale, English Fur Trade, 31, 169, 221.

6 5 6

Appendix 1

The foirsaid geir salbe thankfully allowit to yow and your compts kepand this my precept for your warrand, subscrivit with my hand at Edinburgh the xviii day of December the yeir of god ImVc and xlii yeirs. Erle of Arrane, G.

The aforesaid gear shall be thankfully allowed to you and your accounts keeping this my precept for your warrant, subscribed with my hand at Edinburgh the 18th day of December the year of god 1 thousand 5 hundred and 42 years. Earl of Arran, G.

Appendix 2

A Letter on Margaret Douglas’s Wardrobe

T

he following document (NRS GD254/625) is described in the catalog of the National Records of Scotland as “Discharge by James earl of Arran, governor of Scotland, to Jhone Lindesay of Dowhill for clothes belonging to the governor’s wife Margaret Douglas which had been in John Lindsay’s keeping at his place of Dowhill. Subscribed by the governor. 28 January 1548/9.” This letter appears to be a receipt of sorts, absolving John Lindsay of Dowhill of the responsibility for certain valuable items of Margaret Douglas’s clothing which he had had in his keeping but had returned to their owners.1 The text is published by the kind permission of Major Sir James Lindsay of Dowhill Bt. The translation is the author’s. We James erle of arrane lord hamiltoun Tutor to or souerane lady þe quens grace protector and gouernor of hire Realme grantis ws to haue ressaue fra or louit cousing and seruitor Johnne lindesay of dowhill all & sundry þe clething & abilȝeamentis underwritten pertening to oure deirest spous Dame Margarete Douglas and had by þe said Johnne in his place of dowhill in sure keping, that ar to say ane nyt goun of purpure veluot pasmentit wt gold lynit wt reid taffiteis, ane nyt goun of claith of gold lynit wt quhite taffiteis ane kirtill of fresit claith of gold lynit with blak taffiteis, ane goun of quhite sating lynit wt reid taffeteis ane kirtill of purpure sating browderit wt

1



We, James Earl of Arran, Lord Hamilton, Tutor to our Sovereign Lady the queen’s grace, protector and governor of her realm, grants us to have received from our beloved cousin and servant John Lindsay of Dowhill all and sundry of the clothing and habiliments written below pertaining to our dearest spouse Dame Margaret Douglas and had by the said John in his place of Dowhill in sure keeping, that is to say a night gown of purple velvet with gold passementerie, lined with red taffeta, a night gown of cloth of gold lined with white taffeta, a kirtle of friezed cloth of gold lined with black taffeta, a gown of white satin lined with red taffeta, a kirtle of purple satin embroidered with

On the other side of the letter is the following, in a later hand: “Discharge of cloath in keeping at Dowhill 28 January 1549” and “þe gouernouris? dyscharg of my ?”

6 5 8

2

App endix 2

gold lynit w t blak taffiteis w t foure mensheis & twa foir slevis of purpure sating browderit wt gold ane goun of claith of gold lynit wt quhite taffiteis and þe slevis lynit wt quhite armyn ane goun of pirnyt sating lynit wt quhite taffiteis ane goun of cramessy sating frenȝeit with gold lynit wt blak gray and ȝallow taffiteis and ane goun of blak claith of gold pasmentit wt gold and lynit wt blak taffiteis off þe quhilk clething and abilȝeamentis aboue writtin we grant ws to haue ressauit complet deliuerance fra þe said Johnne lindesay dischargeing him his airs executors and assignars þof for woll & eim? and obliss ws & ony successors faithfullie to wairand freich and keip him & þame skaithles of þe samyn at all maner of personis hande clamand richt or Ju?es þerto in tyme cuming be þir puc[i?]??s subscriuit w t oure hand and vnder oure signet at Edinburgh þe xxviij day of Januar the ȝeir of god jm vc fourty aucht ȝere -

gold, lined with black taffeta, with four maunches2 and two foresleeves of purple satin embroidered with gold, a gown of cloth of gold lined with white taffeta and the sleeves lined with white ermine, a gown of striped satin lined with white taffeta, a gown of crimson satin fringed with gold, lined with black gray and yellow taffeta, a gown of black cloth of gold with gold passementerie and lined with black taffeta, of the which clothing and habiliments above written we grant us to have received complete deliverance from the said John Lindsay, discharging him, his heirs, executors, and assigners thereof for will and ? and oblige us and any successors faithfully to warrant, free, and keep him and them scatheless3 of the same at all manner of persons’ hands claiming right or justice? thereto in time coming by their ?. Subscribed with our hand and under our signet at Edinburgh the 28th day of January, the year of God 1548.

James H

James H[amilton]

In this context, maunches, meaning sleeves (derived from the French), may have referred to separate undersleeves. As foresleeves are listed next, it may be that maunches were full sleeves extending from shoulder to wrist, while foresleeves reached from elbow to wrist. 3 This is an old word meaning “unharmed,” but in this case it is used to mean the same as the modern legal phrase “hold harmless,” which is used to release someone from responsibility.

Appendix 3

Sumptuary Legislation Concerning Apparel in Scotland in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries The full text of the legislation may be found online at the Records of the Parliaments of Scotland database (http://www.rps.ac.uk), which presents material compiled from a number of different manuscripts as well as a modern translation. The translation below, which is the author’s own, differs from that on the website. Not included here are sections dealing with the armor required of various classes. 1429/301 Item it is statut and ordanit that na man sal weir clathis of silk na furring of mertrikis, funyeis, puray na gret na richar furring bot alanerly knychtis and lordis of ijC markis at the lest of yerly rent ande thar eldest son and thar aris, but speciale leif of the king askit and obtenit. Ande at nane uthir weir broudry na peril na bulyeone bot aray thaim at thar awin list in all uthir honest aray as serpis, beltis, uthis and chenyeis etc. [And that undir the payn of eschet of the aray to the king to be takyn and raisyt to quham he committis power.]

1



RPS, 1430/12, 1430/13, 1430/14.

Item, it is decreed and ordained that no man shall wear clothes of silk nor furring of marten, stone marten, pured miniver nor any greater or richer furring but only knights and lords of 200 marks at the least of yearly rent and their eldest son and heirs, unless special permission of the king is asked and obtained. And that none other wear embroidery nor pearl nor bullion but instead array them as they wish in all other honest array, such as gold wreaths, belts, ouches and chains, etc. [And that under the pain of confiscation of the array to the king, to be taken and raised by whom the king deputizes.]

6 6 0

Appendix 3

Item it is statut that na burges within burghe duelland wer ony furryng as befor is saide outan auldirman and balyeis and the counsal of the toune. And the wifis to be arayit eftir the estat of thar husbandis undir the samyne payn forsaid to be raisyt be aldirman and balyeis.

Item, it is decreed that no burgess dwelling within a town wear any furring as before is described except alderman and bailies and the council of the town. And the wives are to be arrayed according to the estate of their husbands under the same penalty described above, to be raised by the aldermen and bailies.

Item it is statut that na yeman na comoun to landwartis wer hewyt clathes siddar na the kne, na yit na ragyt clathes bot allanirly centynnal yemen in lordis housis at ridis with gentill men thar mastiris, the quhilkis sal haf narow slewys and litil pokis. And rycht sa that the commonis wifis na thar servandis nouthir in burghe na in land wer nouthir lang taile, na syde nekit hudis, na pokis on thar slefis, na costly curches as lawne or rynse. And all gentill menis wifis be nocht arayit excedand the estat of thar husbandis.

Item, it is decreed that no yeoman nor commoner to landward2 wear colored clothes longer than the knee, nor yet any dagged3 clothes but only sentinel yeomen in lord’s houses that ride with gentlemen their masters, the which shall have narrow sleeves and little pokes.4 And right so that the commoners’ wives nor their servants neither in town nor in the country wear neither long trains, nor long-necked hoods, nor pokes on their sleeves, nor costly kerchiefs such as those made of lawn or Rennes.5 And all gentlemen’s wives be not arrayed exceeding the estate of their husbands.

1457/586 Item that sene that the realme in all estatis is gretumly puryt throu sumptuose clething bath of mem and wemen and in speciall within burowis and commonys to landwart, the lordis thinkis speidfull that the restriccione tharof be maide in this manir: that na man within burghe that levys be

2



Item, that since the realm in all estates is greatly impoverished through sumptuous clothing both of men and women and especially within towns and commoners to landward, the lords think it desirable that the restriction thereof be made in this manner: that no man within town that

I.e., in the countryside. Dagging, fashionable during this period, consisted of the edges of a garment being cut into strips (like a wide fringe made of the fabric itself) or decorative shapes. 4 The pokes here are probably part of the sleeves, as they are specifically linked as such for women later in this entry. “Poke” meant bag or pouch in Scotland at this time; DSL, s.v. “poke.” Houppelandes, which were fashionable at this time, sometimes had bag-shaped sleeves, and poke is given as a name for a fifteenth-century bag-shaped sleeve by Maria Hayward (“Poke,” in Owen-Crocker, Coatsworth, and Hayward, Encyclopedia, 422) and Valerie Cumming (Dictionary of Fashion History [Oxford: Berg, 2010], s.v. “Bagpipe sleeves, pokys”). 5 Fine linen from Brittany; DSL, s.v. “rens.” 6 RPS, 1458/3/14. 3



Sumpt uary L egisl ation 6 61

merchandice bot gif he be a persone constitute in dignite as auldirman, bailye or uthir gude worthi persounis that ar of the consale of the towne and thare wifis, weire clathis of silk nor costly scarlatis in gownys nor furringis of m[er]t[rik]is; and at thai mak thar wifis and dochteris in lik manir be abeilyeying ganeande and corespondande for thar estate, that is to say on thar hedis schort curchess with litill hudis as ar wsyt in Flandiris, Inglande and wthir cuntreis. And as to thar gownys that na woman weir m[er]t[rik]is nor letvise nor talys of wnsittande lenthe nor furryt undir bot on the haliday. And in lik manir without the burowis of wthir pur gentillmen and thar wifis that ar within xl li. of aulde extent. And as anentis the commonys that na lauboraris nor husbandis weire on the werk day bot gray and quhit, and on the haliday bot lycht blew or grene or rede, and thar wifis rychtsa and curchessis of thar awne making, and at it excede nocht the price of xl d. the elne. And at na woman cum to the kirk nor mercat with hir face hide nor musalyt that scho may nocht be kende undir the payne of eschet of the curche. And as to the clerkis, that nane sall weire gownys of scarlat nor furring of mertr[ik]is bot gif he be ane persone constitute in dignite in cathedrale or college kirkis or ellis that he may spende ijC merkis or gret nobles or doctouris. And this to be now proclamyt and put to execucione be the first day of Maii wndir the pane of eschet of the habite, that is to say of the clerkis be the ordinaris and the laif be the kingis officiaris.

7

lives by merchandise (unless he is a person constituted in dignity such as an alderman, bailie or other good worthy persons that are of the council of the town and their wives) wear clothes of silk nor costly scarlets in gowns nor furrings of marten; and that they make their wives and daughters in like manner be dressing suitably and corresponding to their estate, that is to say on their heads short kerchiefs with little hoods as are used in Flanders, England and other countries. And as to their gowns, that no woman wear marten nor lettice nor trains of unsuitable length nor lined with fur except on holidays. And in like manner outside the towns of other poor gentlemen and their wives that are within 40 pounds of old extent.7 And regarding the commoners, that no laborers nor husbandmen wear on the work day anything but gray and white, and on holidays anything but light blue or green or red, and their wives likewise and kerchiefs of their own making, and that it exceed not the price of 40 d. per ell. And that no woman come to the church nor market with her face hidden or muffled so that she might not be known under pain of confiscation by the church. And as to the clerics, that none shall wear gowns of scarlet nor furring of marten unless he be a person constituted in dignity in the cathedral or college churches, or else that he may spend 200 marks, or great nobles or doctors. And this to be now proclaimed and put to execution by the first day of May under the pain of confiscation of the clothing, that is to say of the clerics by the ordinaries and the rest by the king’s officers.8

“Old extent” refers to a valuation of a property that is set by law at a certain time. William Maxwell Morrison, The Decisions of the Court of Session, vol. 21 (Edinburgh: Archibald Constable, 1811), 8606, 8621. There is much discussion of old extent throughout the first part of this volume. 8 That is to say, clerics submitted to the justice of the church, whereas the laity submitted to the justice of the king.

6 62

Appendix 3

14719 Item, it is statut and ordanit in this present parlyament, that consideringe the gret powerte of the realme, the gret expensis and cost mad apoune the brynging of silkis in the realme, that na man sal veir silkis in tyme cummyng in gwne, doublate and clokis except knychtis, menstrallis [and] herraldis, without that the verar of the samyn may spend a hwndretht pundis wortht of landis rent, under the payne of amerciament to the king of x libre alse oft as thai ar fundyne and eschetin of the samyne, to be gevyne to the herraldis or menstrallis, except the clathis that ar mad befor this parlyament. And at the schiref of ilk schir, aldirman and bailyeis [of burrowis] tak inquisicione thar of and send it to the king. And at menis viffis within a hwndreth pwnde wear na silkis in lynynge bot alanerly in colar and slevis under the samyn payne.

Item, it is decreed and ordained in this present parliament, that considering the great poverty of the realm, the great expenses and cost made upon the bringing of silks into the realm, that no man shall wear silks henceforth in gown, doublet and cloaks except knights, minstrels and heralds, unless the wearer of the same can spend a hundred pounds worth of land rent, under the pain of a fine to the king of 10 pounds each time they are found and confiscation of the same, to be given to the heralds or minstrels, with the exception of the clothes that were made before this parliament. And that the sheriff of each shire, alderman and bailies [of towns] take inquisition thereof and send it to the king. And that men’s wives worth less than 100 pounds wear no silks in linings but only in collars and sleeves under the same penalty.

156710 Item, that it be lauchfull to na wemen to weir abone thair estait except howris.

9



Item, that it be lawful to no woman to wear [clothing] above their estate except whores.11

RPS, 1471/5/7. RPS, 1567/12/53. 11 A marginal note reads: “This act is verray gude. Nota.” 10

Appendix 4

References to Clothing in Scottish Poetry

4.i: Amends to the Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, William Dunbar (before 1520) This poem addresses tailors and shoemakers, praising them for their efforts to disguise even the worst disfigurements. This poem follows an earlier satire describing a joust between a tailor and a shoemaker. The original text is from David Laing’s edition.1 The translation is the author’s and aims for clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter.

1

Betuix twell houris and ellevin, I dremed ane angell came fra Hevin, With plesand stevin, sayand on hie, Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

Between midnight and eleven,2 I dreamed an angel came from Heaven, With pleasing voice, saying on high, Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

In Hevin hie ordand is your place, Aboif all Sanctis in grit solace, Nixt God, grittest in dignitie: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

In Heaven high ordained is your place, Above all saints in great solace, Next to God, greatest in dignity: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

The cause to yow is nocht unkend, That God mismakkis ye do amend, Be craft and grit agilitie: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blest be ye.

The cause to you is not unknown, That which God mis-makes you do amend, By craft and great agility: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

Dunbar, Poems, 1:59–60. Twell houris could be noon or midnight, but in this case it is likely to mean midnight, since the narrator is dreaming. DSL (under Scottish National Dictionary), s.v. “Twal, 2.”

2

6 64

3

App endix 4

Sowtaris, with schone weill maid and meit, Ye mend the faltis of ill maid feit, Quhairfoir to Hevin your saulis will flie: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

Shoemakers, with shoes well made and fit, You mend the faults of ill-made feet, Wherefor to Heaven your souls will fly:3 Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

Is nocht in all this fair a flyrok, That has upoun his feit a wyrok, Knowll tais, nor mowlis in no degrie, But ye can hyd shame: blist be ye.

There’s not in all this fair a flyrok,4 That has upon his feet a wyrok,5 Swollen toes, nor chillblains in any degree, But you can hide shame: blessed be ye.

And Tailyeouris with weil maid clais, Can mend the werst maid man that gaiss, And mak him semely for to se: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

And Tailors with well-made clothes, Can mend the worst-made man that goes, And make him seemly for to see: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

Thocht God mak ane misfassonit man, Ye can him all schaip new agane, And fassoun him bettir be sic thre: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

Though God make a mis-fashioned man, You can shape him all new again, And fashion him three times better: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

Thocht a man haif a brokin bak, Haif ye a gude crafty Tailyeour, quhat-rak, That can it cuver with craftis slie! Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

Though a man have a broken back, If you have a good crafty Tailor, no matter,6 That can cover it with sly crafts! Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

Off God grit kyndness may ye claime, That helpis his peple fra cruke and lame, Supportand faltis with your supplie: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

From God great kindness may you claim, That delivers His people from being crooked and lame, Supporting faults with your supply: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

In Erd ye kyth sic mirakillis heir, In Hevin ye sal be Sanctis full cleir, Thocht ye be knavis in this cuntre: Tailyeouris and Sowtaris, blist be ye.

In Earth you show such miracles here, In Heaven you shall be saints full clear, Though you be knaves in this country: Tailors and Shoemakers, blessed be ye.

This could also be “soles” for a pun. “Flyrok” is a word of uncertain meaning. DSL (s.v. “Flyrok, n.”) guesses “deformed person.” 5 “Wyrok” is a word of uncertain meaning. Jamieson (Dictionary, 620) defines it as “A sort of hard excrescence. V. Virrock,” and defines “Virrock” as “A corn, or bony excrescence on the feet” (585). DSL (s.v. “Wirrok, Virrok, Wyrok, n.”) gives “A callous [sic], corn, bunion or the like.” 6 “Quhat-rak” means “it doesn’t matter” or “it’s of no consequence.” DSL, s.v. “Quhat rek, rak.” 4



Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 6 6 5

4.ii: The Garmont of Gude Ladeis, Robert Henryson (before 1505) Henryson’s poem explores clothing as a metaphor for the desirable characteristics of women. Elements of this poem are variously translated by Frederick Fairholt7 and Jacqueline Tasioulas,8 and Evelyn S. Newlyn has published commentary.9 The text below is from Tasioulas. The translation is the author’s, though several particulars are borrowed from Tasioulas. The aim was clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter.

7

Wald my gud lady lufe me best, And wirk efter my will, I suld ane garment gudliest Gar mak hir body till.

If my good lady would love me best, And act according to my will, I would apparel of the best sort Have made for her body.

Of he honour suld be hir hud, Upoun hir heid to weir, Garneist with govirnance so gud, Na demyng suld hir deir.

Of high honor should be her hood, Upon her head to wear, Garnished with conduct so good, No judgment should injure her.

Hir sark suld be hir body nixt, Of chestetie so quhyt, With schame and dreid togidder mixt, The same suld be perfyt.

Her smock should be next to her skin, Of chastity so white, With shame and dread together mixed The same would be perfect.

Her kirtill suld be of clene constance, Lasit with lesum lufe, The mailyeis10 of continuance For nevir to remufe.

Her kirtle should be of clean constancy, Laced with honest love, The eyelets of steadfastness For never to remove.

Her gown suld be of gudlines, Weill ribband with renowne, Purfillit with plesour in ilk place, Furrit with fyne fassoun.

Her gown should be of goodliness, Well-ribboned with renown, Decorated with pleasantness in every part, Furred with fine fashion.

Hir belt suld be of benignitie, Abowt hir middill meit; Hir mantill of humilitie, To tholl bayth wind and weit.

Her belt should be of kindness, Properly about her middle; Her mantle of humility, To endure both wind and rain.

Frederick Fairholt, Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume: From the 13th to the 19th Century (London: Percy Society, 1849), 59–61. 8 Tasioulas, Makars, 221–23. 9 Newlyn, “Images of Women,” 59–60. 10 The main definition of “mailyeis” is chainmail, but a secondary sense is “A small metal ring to be fixed to a garment to take a hook, clasp, lace, or other fastening; a metal eyelet.” DSL, s.v. “Mailȝe, 3.”

6 6 6

Appendix 4

Hir hat suld be of fair having, And hir tepat of trewth, Hir patelet of gude pansing, Hir hals ribbane of rewth.

Her hat should be of fair behavior, And her tippet of truth, Her partlet of right thinking, Her neck-ribbon of compassion.

Hir slevis suld be of esperance, To keip hir fra dispair; Hir gluvis of the gud govirnance, To hyd hir fyngearis fair.

Her sleeves should be of hope, To keep her from despair; Her gloves of that good conduct, To hide her fingers fair.

Hir schone suld be of sickernes, In syne that scho nocht slyd; Hir hois of honestie, I ges, I suld for hir provyd.

Her shoes should be of steadfastness, That into sin she should not slide; Her hose of honesty, I guess, I should for her provide.

Wald scho put on this garmond gay, I durst sweir by my seill, That scho woir nevir grene nor gray That set hir half so weill.

If she put on this lovely apparel, I dare swear by my happiness, That she never wore green or gray That suited her half so well.

4.iii: Satire on the Toun Ladyes, Richard Maitland (ca. 1555–85) Maitland’s Satire belongs to the medieval and Renaissance body of literature criticizing women for their vanity. Like some other examples of this sort of polemic, it has the unintended but welcome effect of providing details regarding fashion to modern scholars. The original text is from Joanna M. Martin’s edition.11 The translation is the author’s and aims for clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter.

11

Sum wyfes of the borroustoun Sa wonder vaine ar, and wantoun. In warlde thay wait not quhat to weir, On claythis thay wair monye a croun: All for newfangilnes of geir.

Some wives of the borough-town So wondrous vain are, and wanton, They don’t know what in the world to wear: On clothes they spend many a crown; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

Thair bodyes bravelie thay attyire, Of carnall lust to eik the fyire. I fairlie quhy thai have no feir To gar men deime quhat thay desyire; And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Their bodies bravely they attire, Of carnal lust to feed the fire; I wonder why they have no fear Of making men judge what they desire; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

Maitland, Quarto, 42–45.



12

Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 6 67

Thair gounis ar coistlie, and trimlie traillis, Barrit with veluous, sleif, nek and taillis, And thair foirskirt of silkis seir, Off fynest camreche thair fuk-saillis; And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Their gowns are costly, and finely trail; Trimmed with velvet, sleeve, neck, and hem; And their foreskirt of various silks: Of finest cambric their foresails;12 And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

And of fyne silk thair furrit cloikkis, With hingand slevis, lyik geill-poikkis; Na preiching will gar thame foirbeir To weir all thing that sinne provoikis: And all for newfangilnes of geir.

And of fine silk their furred cloaks, With hanging sleeves, like jelly bags;13 No preaching will make them forbear To wear all the things that provoke sin; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

Thair wylie-coittis man weill be hewit, Broudrit richt braid with pasmentis sewit: I trow quha wald the maner speir That thair gudmen had caus to rewit That euer thair wyfis wair sic geir.

Their petticoats must be prettily colored, Embroidered right broadly, sewn with trimmings: I vow, who would question this, That their husbands had cause to rue it, That ever their wives wear such fashion.

Thair wovin hoisis of silk ar schawin, Burrit aboue with tafteis drawin, With gartennis of ane new maneir; To gar thair courtlines be knawin; And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Their woven hose of silk are on display, Ornamented above with taffeta drawn;14 With garters of a new style; To make their courtliness known; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

Sumtyme thay will beir vp thair goun To schaw thair wylicot hingand doun And sumtyme bayth thay will vp beir To schaw thair hoisis of blak or broun: And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Sometimes they will bear up their gown, To show their petticoat hanging down; And sometimes both they will hold up, To show their hose of black or brown; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

It’s unclear what part of the clothing “foresails” is meant to represent. Cambric, a very fine linen, suggests perhaps a handkerchief, but it could also be a head covering. A later stanza references cambric kerchiefs. DSL (s.v. “Fuksail(l”) suggests that foresail refers to a woman’s skirt. Cambric would be a possible material for an apron, which would combine the location (“fore”) with the potential for flying about in the wind. 13 Jelly bags were used to strain the fruit during the jelly-making process; A. W., A Book of Cookrye (London: Edward Allde, 1591), 31r–31v. (My thanks to Daniel Myers for this information.) This suggests that the sleeves had some fullness, perhaps of the same kind fashionable in the Tudor court during the midsixteenth century. 14 Other transcriptions have “taisels” instead of “tafteis,” but drawn tassels make less sense than drawn taffeta (taffeta drawn out through slashes). Drawn taffeta is generally seen describing men’s hose, however, not women’s.

668

15

Appendix 4

Thair collarris, carcattis, and hals-beiddis, With veluot hats heicht on thair heidis, Coirdit with gold lyik ane ȝounkeir, Broudrit about with goldin threiddis; And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Their collars, carcanets,15 and necklaces; With velvet hats high on their heads, Corded with gold like a youngster, Embroidered with golden threads; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

Thair schone of velwot, and thair muillis, In kirk ar not content with stuillis, The sermon quhen thay sit to heir, Bot caryis cuschingis lyik vaine fuillis: And all for newfangilnes of geir.

Their shoes of velvet, and their mules; In church not content with stools, The sermon when they sit to hear; But carry cushions like vain fools: And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

I mein of thame thair honour dreidis, Quhy sould thay nocht haue honest weidis, To thair estait doand effeir? I mein of thame thair stait exceidis, And all for newfangilnes of geir.

I lament for them whose honor is in peril;16 Why should they not have honest attire, To their estate doing justice?17 I lament for them who exceed their state; And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.

For sumtyme wyfis sa grave hes bein, Lyik giglettis cled wald nocht be sein. Off burgesis wyffis thocht I speak heir, Think weill of all women I mein, On vaneteis that waistis geir.

For in times past wives have been so sober, They would never be seen clad like giddy girls: Though of burgesses’ wives I speak here, Ponder well of all women I mean, On vanities that waste property.

Leif, burges men, or all be loist, On ȝour wyffis to mak sic cost Quhilk may gar all ȝour bairnis bleir: Scho that may not want wyne and roist Is abill for to waist sum geir.

Cease, burgess men, or all be lost, On your wives to make such cost, Which may make all your children weep: She that is unable to forgo wine and roast, Is very able to waste property.

Betwene thame, and nobillis of bluid, Na difference bot ane veluous huid. Thair camreche courches ar als deir, Thair other claythis ar als guid; And als costlie in other geir.

Between them, and nobles of blood, No difference but a velvet hood. Their cambric kerchiefs are also expensive; Their other clothes are also fine; And also costly in other fashion.

A carcanet was a heavy necklace, often made of metal plaques. This is a loose translation of the line as a whole. “Mein” could also translate as regret or pity, or several usages of “mean” (i.e., “I intend to say of them whose honor is in peril” or “I refer to them whose honor is in peril”). 17 This is a translation of the sense of “doand effeir.” It literally means “doing properly” or possibly “doing appearance,” though that makes less sense grammatically. 16



Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 6 6 9

Bot, wald greit ladyis tak gud heid To thair honour, and find remeid, And thoill na burgesis wyfe to weir Lyik lordis wyffis in ladyis weid, As dames of honour other geir.

But if great ladies would pay heed To their honor and find a solution; And suffer no burgess’s wife to wear, Like lords’ wives in ladies’ attire, As if dames of honor, other fashions.

I speik for na dispyit, trewlie, (My self am not of faultis frie) Bot that ȝe sould not perseueir Into sic folische vanitie For na newfangilnes of geir.

Truly, I speak not in despite, (I myself am not free of faults,) But that you should not persevere Into such foolish vanity, For any newfangled-ness of fashion.

Of burgesis wyffis thocht I speik plaine, Sum landwart ladyis ar als vaine, As be thair clething may appeir, Werand gayer nor thame may gaine, On our vaine claythis vaistand geir.

Though of burgesses’ wives I speak plain, Some country ladies are also vain, As by their clothing may appear; Wearing finer, nor will they gain: On over-vain clothes wasting property.

4.iv: Ane Supplicatioun directit to the Kingis Grace in contemptioun of Syde Taillis [A Supplication Directed to the King’s Grace, in Contempt of Long Trains], Sir David Lyndsay (1538)18 Lyndsay’s Supplicatioun castigates women at length and in great detail for a particular aspect of fashion (long trains) and applies to the king for remedy of this great fault. He also spares some lines to criticize women for covering their faces in public, which he assumes they do so that they may sin anonymously. The original text is from David Laing’s edition.19 The translation is the author’s and aims for clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter. Schir! thoght your Grace hes put gret ordour, Baith in the Hieland, and the Bordour; Yit mak I Supplicatioun, Till have sum reformation Of ane small falt, quhilk is nocht tressoun, Thocht it be contrarie to ressoun. Because the mater bene so vyle, It may nocht have ane ornate style; Quharefor, I pray your Excellence, To heir me with greit patience:

18

Sir! though your Grace has put great order, Both in the Highland, and the Border; Yet make I Supplication, Til [we] have some reformation Of a small fault, which is not treason, Though it be contrary to reason. Because the matter is so vile, It may not have an ornate style; Wherefore, I pray your Excellence, To hear me with great patience:

The date of 1538 is from Robert Chambers, ed., Cyclopaedia of English Literature: A Selection of the Choicest Production of English Authors from the Earliest to the Present Time, vol. 1 (New York: World, 1875), 50. 19 Lyndsay, Works, 128–33.

670

20

Appendix 4

Of stinkand weidis maculate, Na man may mak ane rois chaiplate. Soverane, I mene of thir Syde Taillis, Quhilk throw the dust, and dubbis traillis, Thre quarteris lang behynd thair heillis, Expres agane all Commonweillis.

Of stinking filthy weeds, No man may make a rose chaplet. Sovereign, I mean of these Long Trains, Which through the dust and puddles trail, Three quarters of an ell long behind their heels, Expressly against all Commonweals.

Thocht Bischopis, in thair pontificallis, Have men for to beir up thair taillis, For dignitie of thair office; Richt so ane Quene, or ane Emprice; Howbeit thay use sic gravitie, Conformand to thair Majestie: Thocht thair rob royallis be upborne, I think it is ane verray scorne, That every lady of the land Suld have hir taill so syde trailland; Howbeit thay bene of hie estait The Quene, thay suld nocht counterfait. Quhare ever thay go, it may be sene, How kirk, and calsay, thay soup clene; The imagis in to the Kirk, May thik of thair syde taillis irk: For quhen the wedder bene maist fair, The dust fleis hiest in the air, And all thair facis dois begarie, Gif thay culd speik, thay wald thame wane.

Though Bishops, in their pontificals, Have men to bear up their trains, For dignity of their office; Likewise a Queen, or an Empress; Although they use such gravity, Conforming to their Majesty: Though their royal robes be upborne, I think it is a very scorn, That every lady of the land Should have her train so long trailing; Although they be of high estate, The Queen they should not counterfeit. Wherever they go, it may be seen, How church and pavement they sweep clean; The images20 inside the church, May think their long trains irksome: For when the weather is most fair, The dust flies highest in the air, And all their faces does decorate, If they could speak, they would curse them.

To se I think ane pleasand sicht, Of Italie the ladyis bricht, In thair clething maist triumphand, Above all other Christin land: Yit, quhen thay travell throw the townis, Men seis thair feit beneth thair gownis, Four inche abone thair proper heillis, Circulat about als round as quheillis; Quhare throw thare dois21 na poulder ryis, Thair fair quhyte lymmis to suppryis.

To see I think a pleasant sight, Of Italy the ladies bright, In their clothing most triumphant, Above all other Christian lands: Yet, when they travel through the towns, Men see their feet beneath their gowns, Four inches above their proper heels, Circled about and round as wheels; Where through their steps no powder rise, Their fair white limbs to surprise.

I.e., statues or paintings of saints or biblical figures. “Dois” in this context seems to be a noun rather than a variant of the verb “do.” DSL (s.v. “Dois, n.”) gives “violent impact” as a definition for the noun “dois.” The previous two lines give a hint about what kind of

21



Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 67 1

Bot, I think maist abusioun, To se men of religioun, Gar beir thair taillis throw the streit, That folkis may behald thair feit, I trow Sanct Bernards, nor Sanct Blais, Gart never man beir up thair clais; Peter, nor Paule, nor Sanct Androw, Gart never beir up thair taillis, I trow.

But, I think most abusion, To see men of religion, Do bear their trains through the street, That folks may behold their feet, I vow St. Bernard, nor St. Blais, Would surely never bear up their clothes; Peter, nor Paul, nor St. Andrew, Would never bear up their trains, I vow.

Bot, I lauch best to se ane Nun, Gar beir hir taill abone hir bun, For no thing ellis, as I suppois, Bot for to schaw hir lillie quhyte hois: In all thair Rewlis, they will nocht find Quha suld beir up thair taillis behind. Bot I have maist in to despyte, Pure claggokis cled in roiploch quhyte, Quhilk hes skant twa markis for thair feis, Will have twa ellis beneath thair kneis: Kittok, that clekkit wes yestrene, The morne, wyll counterfute the Quene: Ane mureland Meg, that milkit the yowis, Claggit with clay abone the howis, In barn, nor byir, scho wyll nocht byde, Without her kyrtyll taill be syde.

But, I laugh best to see a Nun, To bear her train above her bum, For nothing else, as I suppose, But for to show her lily-white hose: In all their Rules, they will not find Who should bear up their trains behind. But I hold most in contempt, Poor draggle-tails clad in white raploch, Which have scarcely two marks for their fees, Will have two ells beneath their knees: Wenches, that were born last night, The next morn, will counterfeit the Queen: A moorland Meg, that milks the ewes, Smeared with clay up to the cap, In barn, nor byre, she will not bide, Unless her kirtle train be long.

In burrowis, wantoun burges wyiffis, Quha may have sydest taillis stryiffis, Weill bordourit with velvoit fyne: Bot following thame it is ane pyne, In somer quhen the streittis dryis, Thay rais the dust abone the skyis; None may ga neir thame at thair eis, Without thay cover mouth and neis, Frome the powder to keip thair ene, Considder gif thair cloiffis be clene. Betuixt thair cleving and thair kneis,

In boroughs, wanton burgesses’ wives, Who may have “longest train” contests, Well-bordered with fine velvet: But following them it is a torture, In summer when the streets dry, They raise the dust above the skies; None may go near them at their ease, Unless they cover mouth and nose, From the powder to keep their eyes. Consider whether their privates are clean. Between their privates and their knees,

violent impact this might be. “Four inches above their proper heels / Circled about and round as wheels” is probably a reference to the high platform shoes known as chopines that were worn in Italy and other places in the sixteenth century and may have also been worn in Scotland. Some of them did have a round footprint (see Semmelhack, On a Pedestal, figs. 17–20, 40), and they might have caused a rather heavy gait, allowing Lyndsay to characterize women’s steps as violent impacts on the ground. “Quhare throw thare dois na poulder ryis” thus makes sense if “dois” is translated as steps (“Where through their steps no powder rise / Their fair white limbs to surprise”). This could be taken to mean that despite women’s stomping about, no dust rose far enough to coat their legs because their shoes were so tall.

672

App endix 4

Quha micht behald thair sweitie theis, Begairit all with dirt, and dust, That were aneuch to stanche the lust Of ony man that saw thame naikit: I think sic giglottis ar bot glaikit Without profite to have syc pryde Harland thair claggit taillis so syde:

Who might behold their sweet thighs, Decorated all with dirt, and dust, That would be enough to staunch the lust Of any man that saw them naked: I think such wantons are but foolish Without profit to have such pride Dragging their clogged trains so long:

I wald thae Borrowstounis barnis had breikkis, To keep sic mist fra malkinnis cheikkis; I dreid rouch malkin die for drouth, Quhen sic dry dust blawis in hir mouth. I think maist pane efter ane rane, To se thame towkit up agane; Than, quhen thay step furth throw the streit, Thair faldingis flappis about thair feit, Thair laithlie lyning furthwart flypit, Quhilk hes the muk and midding wypit; Thay waist mair claith, within few yeiris, Nor wald cleith fyftie score of freiris. Quhen Marioun from the midding gois, Frome hir morne turne, scho strypis the nois, And all the day, quhare ever scho go, Sic liquour scho likkith up also: The turcumis of hir taill, I trow, Micht be ane supper till ane sow.

I wish the Borough-town children had breeches, To keep such dust from “Malkin’s cheeks” I fear hairy Malkin will die of drought, When such dry dust blows in her mouth. I think it is worst after a rain, To see them tucked up again; Then, when they step forth through the street, Their foldings flap about their feet, Their loathly linen forward flipped, Which has the muck and midden wiped; They waste more cloth, within a few years, Than would clothe fifty score of friars. When Marian from the midden goes, From her morning turn, she strips the dirt, And all the day, wherever she goes, Such liquor she licks up also: The filth of her train, I vow, Might be a supper for a sow.

I ken ane man, quhilk swoir greit aithis, How he did lift ane Kittokis claithis, And wald have done, I wat nocht quhat, Bot sone remeid of lufe he gat; He thocht na schame to mak it wittin, How hir syde taill was all beschittin; Of filth sic flewer straik till his hart, That he behovit for till depart. Quod scho, Sweit schir, me think ye rew. Quod he, Your taill makis sic ane stew, That be Sanct Bryde, I may nocht byde it, Ye were nocht wyse, that wald nocht hyde it. Of Taillis I will no more indyte, From dreid sum duddroun me despyte: Notwithstanding, I wyll conclude, That of syde taillis can cum na gude,

I know a man, which swore great oaths, How he did lift a wench’s clothes, And would have done, I know not what, But soon remedied of love he was; He thought no shame to make it known, How her long train was all be-shitted; Of filth such odor struck to his heart, That he found it necessary to depart. Said she, “Sweet sir, I think you regret.” Said he, “Your train makes such a stench, That by St. Bryde, I cannot abide it, You were not wise, that would not hide it.” Of Trains I will no more indict, From fear that some slut will hate me: Notwithstanding, I will conclude, That of long trains can come no good,



22

Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 673

Syder nor may thair hanclethis hyde, The remanent proceidis of pryde, And pryde proceidis of the devill, Thus alway thay proceid of evill.

No longer may their ankles hide, The remaining proceeds of pride, And pride proceeds from the devil, Thus always they proceed from evil.

Ane uther falt, Schir, may be sene, Thay hyde thair face all bot the ene, Quhen gentill men biddis thame gude day, Without reverence thay slyde away, That none may knaw, I you assure, Ane honest woman, be ane hure; Without thair naikit face I se, Thay get na mo Gude dayis of me. Haile ane Frence lady quhen ye pleis, Scho wil discover mouth, and neis; And with one humill countenance, With visage bair, mak reverence. Quhen our ladyis dois ryde in raine, Suld no man have thame at disdane, Thocht thay be coverit mouth and neis: In that case thay will nane displeis, Nor quhen thay go to quiet places. I thame excuse, to hyde thair faces, Quhen thay wald mak collatioun, With ony lustie companyeoun, Thocht thay be hid than to the ene, Ye may considder quhat I mene; Bot, in the Kirk, and market placis, I think thay suld nocht hide thair facis:

Another fault, Sir, may be seen, They hide their face all but the eyes, When gentlemen bid them good day, Without reverence they slide away, That none may know, I assure you, An honest woman, is a whore; Unless their naked face I see, They get no more Good Days from me. Hail a French lady when you please, She will uncover mouth and nose: And with one humble countenance, With face bare, make reverence. When our ladies do ride22 in rain, No man should have them at disdain, Though they be covered mouth and nose: In that case they will none displease, Nor when they go to quiet places, I excuse them, to hide their faces, When they would make conversation, With any lusty companion, Though they be hidden up to the eyes, You may consider what I mean; But, in the Church, and market places, I think they should not hide their faces:

Without this faltis be sone amendit, My Flyting, Schir, sall never be endit. Bot wald your Grace my counsall tak, Ane proclamatioun ye suld mak, Baith throw the Land, and Borrowstounis, To schaw thair face, and cut thair gounis; Nane suld fra that exemptit be, Except the Quenis Majestie: Because this mater is nocht fair, Of rethorik it man be bair.

Unless this fault be soon amended, My flyting,23 Sir, shall never be ended. But if your Grace my counsel take, A proclamation you should make, Both through the Land, and Borough-towns, To show their face, and cut their gowns; None should from that exempted be, Except the Queen’s Majesty: Because this matter is not fair, Of rhetoric it must be bare.

Though its meaning seems obvious, the phrase “dois ryde” could be interpreted in more than one way. “Do ride” makes sense in the context of the verse, but DSL links both “dois” (when used as a noun) and “ryde” (when used as an adjective) to violent impacts or blows (s.v. “Dois, n.” and “Rid(e, Ryd(e, adj.”). Another translation of “dois ryde” could be “tread heavily” in a literal sense or “clomp along” in a more evocative vein, perhaps in reference to the earlier verse (see note 4). 23 Flyting was a common form of poetry in Scotland at this time. Its purpose was to attack the subject in

674

App endix 4

Wemen will say, this is no bourdis, To wryte sick vyle and filthy wordis; Bot wald thay clenge thair filthy taillis, Quhilk ouir the myris and middingis traillis, Than suld my wryting clengit be, None uther mendis thay get of me; The suith suld nocht be holden clos, Veritas non qumrit angvlos. I wait gude wemen that bene wyse, This rurall ryme wyll nocht dispyse; None will me blame, I you assure Except ane wanton glorious hure, Quhais flyting I feir nocht ane fle: Fair weill! ye get no more of me.

Women will say, this is no jest, To write such vile and filthy words; But if they would clean their filthy trains, Which over the mire and middens trail, Then should my writing cleaner be, No other amends will they get of me; The truth should not be hidden, Veritas non quoerit angulos. I know good women that be wise, This rural rhyme will not despise; None will blame me, I assure you Except a wanton glorious whore, Whose flyting I fear not a flea: Farewell! You get no more of me.

Quod Lyndesay, in contempt of the syde taillis, That dudrounis, and duntibouris, throw the dubbis traillis.

Said Lyndsay, in contempt of the long trains, That sluts and hags, through the puddles trail.

4.v: Excerpt from A General Satyre, William Dunbar (before 1513)24 Dunbar’s Satyre covers several subjects, but one verse mentions aspects of fashion. The original text is from David Laing’s edition.25 The translation is the author’s and aims for clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter. Sic fartingaillis on flaggis als fatt as quhailis, Facit lyk fulis with hattis that littill availlis; And sic fowill taillis to sweip the calsay clene, The dust upskaillis, mony fillok with fuk saillis, Within this land was nevir hard nor sene.

Such farthingales on slatterns (as fat as quails), With faces like fools and hats that avail them naught;26 And such foul tails to sweep the pavement clean,27 The dust flies up, many silly girls with foresails,28 Within this land was never heard nor seen.

a tongue-in-cheek way. Because a verse in the poem refers to those who would speak ill of the king and queen, the Satyre must have been written before the death of King James IV in 1513. James V did not marry until after Dunbar’s death. 25 Dunbar, Poems, 2:27, lines 71–75. 26 I.e., hats that fail to shade their faces. 27 I.e., trains on their skirts dirty from sweeping the streets. 28 These might be full skirts or aprons; see DSL, s.v. “Fuksail(l.” Richard Maitland’s Satire on the Toun 24



Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 675

4.vi: Excerpts from The Tua Maryit Wemen and the Wedo [The Two Married Women and the Widow], William Dunbar (before 1507)29 This lengthy poem contains several references to dress, including some rare literary glimpses of mourning clothing. Only the relevant verses are included below, with missing text indicated by ellipses. This poem takes place on Midsummer Eve, “the merriest of nights,” and purports to be a conversation between two married women and a widow. The original text is from David Laing’s edition.30 The translation is the author’s and aims for clarity of meaning rather than rhyme and meter. I saw Thre gay Ladeis sit in ane grene arbeir, All grathit in to garlandis of fresche gudelie flouris; So glitterit as the gold wer thair glorius gilt tressis, Quhill all the gressis did gleme of the glaid hewis;

I saw three lovely Ladies sit in a green arbor, All draped in garlands of fresh lovely flowers; As glittery as gold were their glorious gilt tresses, While all the grasses did gleam with the bright hues;

Kemmit was thair cleir hair, and curiouslie sched Attour thair schulderis doun schyre, schyning full bricht; With curches, cassin thame abone, of kirsp cleir and thin: Thair mantillis grein war as the gress that grew in May sessoun, Fetrit with thair quhyt fingaris about thair fair sydis:

Combed was their beautiful hair, and curiously cast Over their shoulders straight down, shining very bright; With kerchiefs that they threw over the top, of crespe fine and thin: Their mantles were green as the grass that grew in May season, Fetched with their white fingers about their fair sides:

... And thoght his pen purly me payis in bed, His purse pays richely in recompense efter: For, or he clym on my corse, that carybald forlane, I have conditioun of a curche of kersp all ther fynest;

And though his penis pays me poorly in bed, His purse pays richly in recompense after: For, before he climbs on my body, that worthless lout, I make him promise me a kerchief of crespe all the finest;

Ladyes also uses this word mockingly (see Appendix 4.iii, note 2.), but he describes them as cambric, which would have been an unlikely material for a skirt but a possibility for an apron. 29 This poem was printed in a booklet known as “The Chepman and Myllar prints,” ca. 1505–7. A copy of this booklet is held by the National Library of Scotland. 30 Dunbar, Poems, 1:61–80.

676

Appendix 4

A goun of engranyt31 claith, right gaily furrit; A ring with a ryall stane, or other riche jowell,

A gown of cloth in grain, right gaily furred; A ring with royal stone, or other rich jewel,

... He has bene waistit apon wemen, or he me wif cheisit, And in adultre, in my tyme, I haif him tane oft: And yit, he is als brankand with bonet on syde, And blenkand to the brichtest that in the burgh duellis, Alse curtly of his clething, and kemmyng of his hair, As he that is mair valyeand in Venus chalmer;32

He was profligate with women before he chose me for a wife, And, in my time, I have often discovered him in adultery: And yet, he is also dashing with his bonnet tilted to the side, And gleaming to match the brightest that dwells in the town, As courtly in his clothing, and styling of his hair, As any that is more valiant in Venus’ chamber;

...

31

He wes a gret goldit man, and of gudis riche; I leit him be my lumbart33 to lous me all misteris, And he wes fane for to fang fra me that fair office, And thoght my favoris to fynd through his feill giftis. He grathit me in a gay silk, and gudly arrayis;

He was a great wealthy man, and rich in goods; I let him be my Lombard to redeem all my needs, And he was happy to accept that pleasant employment from me, And thought to enjoy my favors through his great gifts. He dressed me in a bright silk, and goodly array;

In gownis of engranyt clayth, and gret goldin chenyeis; In ringis ryally set with riche ruby stonis, Quhill hely raise my renoune amang the rude peple; Bot I full craftely did keip thai courtly wedis, Quhill eftir dede of that drupe, that docht nought in chalmer:

In gowns of cloth in grain, and great golden chains; In rings royally set with rich ruby stones, Thus highly raising my renown among the rude people; But I full craftily did keep the courtly clothes, Long after the death of that wimp that did nothing in the chamber:

Cloth dyed “in grain,” or using kermes, an expensive red dye. While “chalmer” could be translated as bedroom, the word chamber also encompasses what was probably the intended innuendo alluding to Venus’ genitalia. 33 Lombards were known for banking and lending money. 32



Referen ce s to Clo thin g in S co t tish Poetry 677

Thought he of all my clathis maid cost and expense, Ane othir sall the worschip haif, that weildis me efter; And thoght I likit him bot litill, yit for the luf of otheris, I wald me prunya plesandly; in precius wedis, That luffaris myght apon me luke, and ying lusty gallandis,

Though he bought all my clothes, Another will get the credit, that takes up with me later; And though I liked him but little, yet for the love of others, I would deck myself out pleasingly; in precious clothes, That lovers might look upon me, and young lusty gallants,

...

34

I busk as I wer bailfull, bot blith is my hert; My mouth it makis murnyng, and my mynd lauchis; My clokis thai ar cairfull in colour of sabill; Bot courtly and ryght curyus my corse is ther undir: I drup with a ded luke, in my dule habit,

I dress as if I were miserable, but blithe is my heart; My mouth makes mourning, and my mind laughs; My cloaks they are careful in color of sable; But my body is courtly and right curious underneath: I droop with a dead look, in my mourning clothes,

As with manis daill34 I had done for dayis of my lif. Quhen that I go to the kirk, cled in cair weidis, As foxe in a lambis fleise fenye I my cheir; Than lay I furth my bright buke on breid on my kne, With mony lusty letter ellummynit with gold;

As with men’s sex I had done for days of my life. When I go to church, clad in grief’s clothes, Like a fox in a lamb’s fleece I disguise my cheer; Then I lay forth my bright book broad on my knee, With many lusty letters illuminated with gold;

And drawis my clok forthwart our my face quhit, That I may spy, unaspyit, a space me beside: Full oft I blenk by my buke, and blynis of devotioun, To se quhat berne is best brand, or bredest in schulderis, Or forgeit is maist forcely, to furnyse a bancat

And draw my cloak forward over my white face, That I may see, unseen, the area nearby: Often I glance by my book, and leave off devotion, To see what hero is most brawny, or broadest in shoulders, Or is forged most strongly, to furnish a banquet

DSL, s.v. “Dale, 3.c.”

678

Appendix 4

In Venus chalmer, valyeandly, withoutin vane ruse: And, as the new mone, all pale, oppreffit with change, Kythis quhilis her cleir face, through cluddis of sable, So keik I through my clokis, and castis kynd lukis To knychtis, and to cleirkis, and courtly personis.

In Venus’ chamber, valiantly, without worthless tricks: And as the new moon, all pale, oppressed with change, Sometimes displays her lovely face through dark clouds, So peek I through my cloaks, and cast kind looks At knights, and at clerics, and courtly people.

Quhen frendis of my husbandis behaldis me on fer, I haif a water spunge for wa, within my wyde clokis, Than wring I it full wylely, and wettis my chekis; With that watteris myn ene, and welteris doune teris. Than say thai all, that sittis about, Se ye nought, allace!

When friends of my husband’s behold me from afar, I have a water sponge for woe within my wide cloaks, Then I wring it very sneakily, and wet my cheeks; With that my eyes water, and tears rain down. Then say all nearby: Don’t you see? Alas!

References

Glossary

T

his glossary includes some of the words used in the regency Accounts that may be unfamiliar to the modern reader. Definitions for garment and accessory names may be found in Chapters 1 and 2. Please note that many fabric names reference the origin of the textile, e.g., Genoa, Milan, Venice, Mechelen, Bruges, Lille, Rouen, and Bretagne. Most place-names are from Italy, the Low Countries, and France, and a few are from other countries. Some color names are also used as fabric names, especially black, red, white, and gray, which are all wools.

aglet: A tip at the end of a tie or point, made of metal or another hard material. Used to facilitate the threading of the ties through eyelets in garments; could also be decorative. armosene: A type of taffeta (plain-woven silk), the name of which was related to the French word for taffeta (armoisin). Used as the outer fabric for men’s gowns, coats, and doublets and women’s gowns, kirtles, and cloaks. Also used for garment linings. bar: Decorate with strips of fabric. Several terms are used with this same general meaning (see also narve, welt, and vane), but the difference between them is not clear. begary: Decorate or trim in one of several ways, often with strips of contrasting material. bocasin: “A kind of fine Buckeram, that hath a resemblance of taffata, and is much used for lining.”1 Made of linen. bodies: This word was used in some contexts in the sixteenth century to mean a separate bodice or (in the latter part of the century) what would now be known as a corset, either of which was usually called a “pair of bodies.” In other contexts it referred to the torso area of a garment. bombazine: “any kind of stuffe thats made of cotton [wool], or of cotton [wool], and linnen.”2 Mixed cloth of wool and linen used for doublets and lining. buckram: Linen fabric used for sacks, socks, lining, and underlining. Not stiffened as modern buckram usually is. budge, buge: Lambs’ wool used as a fur (i.e., still attached to the skin rather than shorn). The Accounts also contain one instance of “buge” used as a fabric name [4]. camlet: A mixed cloth which was in this period sometimes of wool and silk and sometimes of wool and linen. cantailyes, cantailȝeis: Some type of decoration for clothing, usually applied to the borders.3 clasps: Hooks and eyes made of bent wire, very similar to those currently in use. 1

3 2

Cotgrave, Dictionarie, s.v. “Boccasin.” Ibid., s.v. “Bombasin.” DSL, s.v. “Cantaillie.”

6 82 Glos s ary

color de roy: A fabric whose name apparently originated as a color name, and which might have been either purple or tawny. combing cloths: See “Combing Kerchiefs,” Chapter 1. cordwainer: Shoemaker. crespe: A thin fabric, probably of linen, possibly with a crinkled texture.4 crown of the sun: French coin with a value ranging from £1 2s to £1 3s during this period. cut out upon: [describing a garment] Having the outer layer of fabric slashed so that a decorative lining will show through. dagged: [describing a garment] Having decoratively cut or shaped edges. demigrain: Red wool fabric dyed at least partially with grain (kermes). Used for linings, the red parts of display livery, and petticoats. demi-ostage, demi-ostade: Mixed cloth of linen and wool. drawn forth: [describing a garment] Having a thin, usually silk, lining drawn through slashes in the outer fabric of the garment. drinksilver: Gratuity or tip given to artisans and their assistants. eleemosynar: One whose occupation is distributing alms to the poor. ermine: White weasel fur, sometimes decorated (or “powdered”) with the black-tipped tails of the same animal or with tufts of black to imitate them. figured: [describing fabric] Having a pattern. frieze: Wool cloth given a “high, irregular, tufty, curly nap, by scrubbing the surface of the wet fabric with iron rubbers and with a circular motion, so that the upper fibres formed into small curls or beads,” giving the surface a “hard, rough feel” and insulative properties.5 Used extensively for men’s coats and cloaks. friezed: [describing fabric] Having a textured surface. Friezed leather would have had a surface treatment to roughen it, either generally or in specific patterns. Friezed cloth of gold was most likely another name for cloth of tissue, which was woven with small loops standing proud of the surface that created both a texture and a pattern. fustian: Mixed cloth that might be composed of a combination of linen, cotton, and/or wool. Extensively used for doublets and linings and more generally for parts of garments that would not be visible when worn. gall cloth: Probably a type of linen. Used for women’s collars. grance, grauce: A type of wool cloth. grosgrain: Silk fabric used for a variety of different garments. Probably woven with a heavier thread in one direction to produce a ribbed effect. See also taffeta of cord. Holland cloth: Linen fabric available in several qualities. Used for shirts, shifts, kerchiefs, collars, handkerchiefs, and other items commonly made of linen. in grain: [describing fabric] Dyed with kermes, also known as grain. incarnate: Flesh-colored (here flesh is used to refer to muscle rather than skin). kersey: Fulled and sheared wool twill cloth. A cheap fabric in Scotland at this time. lawn: Fine linen fabric. lettice: White or light gray fur, from the winter coat of various types of weasel. linsey-woolsey: A mixed cloth woven of linen and wool threads. marabas, marrebas: Possibly, styled in a Moorish fashion.6 DSL, s.v. “Crisp(e”; OED, s.v. “crape, n.1.a.” Eric Kerridge, Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England (Manchester, Manchester University

4 5

6



Press, 1985), 19. DSL, s.v. “Marrabas.”

Glos s ary 6 83

miniver: Squirrel fur, sometimes plain white and sometimes white and gray. narve: Decorate with strips of fabric. Several terms are used with this same general meaning (see also bar, welt, and vane), but the difference between them is not clear. notions: A word in American English denoting fastenings, tapes, pins, thread, and similar types of items. British readers may be more familiar with the term haberdashery. Paris silk: Silk sewing thread. passementerie: A decorative woven or braided trim. pile: Wool fabric, probably with a raised nap (called a pile). pippan: A reel of thread of a specific length. plaiding: Wool fabric, typically used for items designed to hold in warmth (such as blankets, curtains, and wyliecoats), but not necessarily patterned with plaid. precept: Warrant or permission. pressed: [describing woven wool fabric] Subjected to pressure and sometimes heat in order to create a smooth or even shiny surface.7 pullings-out: Silk lining that has been pulled through slashes in the outer garment fabric. raploch: A coarse, undyed wool cloth. Used metaphorically to indicate coarseness or humble origins. Also a place-name (Raploch, a district in Stirling). razed: [describing fabric] Probably having a sheared surface, although later in the century the term was also used to describe fabric with a scored pattern.8 round: [describing fabric, usually linen] Coarse, heavy, or lower-quality.9 russet: A wool cloth of varying qualities favored by the Regent for riding coats but also used for other garments. Not necessarily russet in color. sarcenet: A thin silk fabric. scarlet: An expensive wool cloth that was sometimes scarlet in color. scyes: Edges or openings of a garment. shanks: Legs; usually lower legs. small: [describing fabric, usually linen] Fine or higher quality. Although the regency Accounts use both “fine” and “small” as descriptors (sometimes in sequence regarding the same piece of fabric), it is not clear what the distinction (if any) was between them. stemming: A thin worsted wool fabric, very frequently used for hose, especially legs of hose. Red stemming also used for petticoats and lining the scyes of garments. Occasionally seen in other garments. Also called stammel, stamin, or estamin. taffeta of cord, taffeta of four threads, taffeta of grosgrain: Silk plain-woven fabric, probably woven with groups of four threads in one direction so as to produce a ribbed effect. thrum: Small pieces of thread or yarn cut from the ends of weaving. In the sixteenth century, worked into the structure of both knitted or felted hats to create a pile. toque d’argent: “Plated cloth of … silver; a kind of tinsell, or stuffe that is striped with … silver.”10 traces, tracing silk: A type of narrow trim, perhaps cording, usually bought in very large quantities even when used to decorate something quite small. Often used on nightcaps. trailȝe, trailye, trailze: In the regency Accounts, probably a linen fabric, but in previous Accounts used for doublets, and in James V’s inventory sometimes seen in the phrase “satin trailye.”11 turs: Pack or carry. For more details, see Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, 173. Arnold, Wardrobe, 370. DSL, s.v. “Round”; OED, s.v. “round, adj. I.7.” 10 Cotgrave, Dictionarie, s.v. “toque d’or ou d’argent.” 11 OED, s.v. “trailye”; Harrison, Inventories, 16, 23–4. 7

9 8

6 84 Glos s ary

twesane: A type of wool, possibly related to tossone (fleece) or the later tweest (homespun cloth woven of mixed black and white thread).12 unpressed: [describing wool fabric] Manufactured with a finishing process that did not include pressing (see pressed). Unpressed wool fabric was likely to have had a soft rather than smooth surface. unwatered: [describing camlet fabric] Camlet was usually watered as part of the finishing process (see watered). Unwatered camlet did not have this treatment. utterfine: A type of wool, probably with a flexible and comfortable character, as it was commonly used for men’s and women’s hose. Also used for other garments. vane: Decorate with strips of fabric. Several terms are used with this same general meaning (see also bar, narve, and welt), but the difference between them is not clear. watered: [describing camlet fabric] Subjected to a process of being sprinkled with water before hot-pressing to create a moiré finish.13 welt: Decorate with strips of fabric. Several terms are used with this same general meaning (see also bar, narve, and vane), but the difference between them is not clear.

DSL, s.v. “Twesane.” Kerridge, Textile Manufactures, 42.

12 13

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Indexes

Index A

General Index to the Text Please note: subheadings under garment names such as “of black” and “of gray” refer to fabric names. These fabrics were for the most part almost certainly also that color, but items are indexed under the name of the fabric from which they were made, not their color. E.g., a garment made of red kersey would be indexed under “of kersey,” not “of red.” academic clothing  289–90 Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland (previous published transcription)  2–3, 16, 19–20, 289, 302 n.36, 345, 412, 527–8, 585 accounts, administration and organization of  19–23 aglets  66, 75, 345–6, 655 alliance with France  6, 68, 78–9, 154 alteration of clothing discussion of  40 n.27, 279, 382 in the Accounts  34, 147, 150, 155, 159, 184, 209, 222–3, 249, 254–5, 268–9, 273, 294–6, 335, 344, 350, 382, 421, 424, 429, 455–6, 468, 470, 476 see also repair of clothing Ancrum Moor  153 aprons see under jacks arm guards see under jacks “auld alliance”  6, 68, 78–9, 154 battles Ancrum Moor  153 Pinkie Cleugh  148, 190, 495, 568, 606 belts men’s  8, 28, 36, 75–6, 128, 152, 296, 313, 659 of ribbon  321, 325, 330, 334, 339 of taffeta  178, 187, 192, 199, 202, 205, 209, 239, 260–2, 264–6, 272, 278, 298, 300–1, 303, 305, 307, 309–11, 315, 322, 341 of taffeta of four threads  184, 217, 231, 235, 242, 244, 248, 257, 261, 268, 270–4, 278, 285 of taffeta of Genoa  156–7, 162, 167, 177, 180, 211, 221, 254–60, 266, 278, 306, 311, 314



of taffeta of cord  160, 163, 169, 171, 174, 204, 255–6, 258, 265, 278 mourning  134, 223, 269, 278 sword  203, 215, 265, 267, 278 women’s  119–20, 434, 447, 452, 467, 478, 481, 514, 665 billiments  114–15, 129 see also garnishings for and cornets under hoods, women’s bobbin lace  92 bongraces see under hoods, women’s bonnets, men’s  28, 50, 64–6, 77, 127, 137, 140, 149, 152, 154–5, 164, 171, 174, 181, 184, 187, 190–1, 193, 200, 215, 233, 259–64, 271, 276–7, 281–7, 292, 294, 297, 300, 303–6, 308–12, 314, 316, 318, 320–1, 334, 339, 345, 353–7, 359–60, 362, 364–75, 377, 379, 426, 522–5, 527, 529–30, 532, 535, 537–43, 545–8, 551, 554–5, 557–60, 562, 564–9, 571–4, 576–8, 580–1, 586–7, 592–8, 602–4, 613, 615–17, 621–2, 627–8, 631–5, 648–50, 676 cases for  64, 171, 181–2, 198, 228, 304, 320, 339 construction of  64, 66 lining for  66, 204, 206, 215, 220, 237, 243, 248, 253, 265–8, 271, 273–4, 362, 369, 564 mourning  134, 186, 223, 261, 269, 276, 380, 638 of cloth  225, 324, 327, 348 of velvet  66, 177, 182, 203–4, 206, 212, 219–20, 227, 233–4, 237, 243, 248, 253, 258–60, 264–8, 270–4, 276, 288–9, 296, 304, 309–10, 312, 315, 319, 324, 329, 331–2, 337–8, 343, 346, 348, 372, 533–4

698

Inde x A

riding  219, 227, 234, 268, 270–1, 277 bonnets, women’s  111 boots  70–2, 141, 169, 171, 178, 210, 224, 234, 243, 250, 254, 257–9, 266, 269, 271, 273, 275, 277, 280, 282, 286, 299, 309, 313, 351, 354, 357, 368, 372, 395, 482–3, 549 breeks (breeches)  38, 59–61, 77, 293, 295, 297–8, 306, 308–9, 311–12, 314–21, 338, 340, 646–7, 650, 672 lining for  295, 297–8, 306, 308–9, 311, 314, 316, 319–21, 338, 340 buists  87 n.28, 107–8, 438, 443, 448, 450, 452, 458, 467, 478, 481 buskins  71–2, 237, 240, 272, 277 buttons  23, 27, 36, 121, 130, 148, 350, 517, 622 see also doublets, women’s see also under coats, men’s; cloaks, men’s; doublets, men’s cantailyes/cantailȝeis/cantelyeis see under cloaks, men’s; hose, men’s, stocks or thighs of; coats, men’s; gowns, men’s capes see mantles; cloaks; pes caps lining for  68–9, 216, 219, 268 men’s  64–5, 67–9, 116, 129, 216, 219, 263, 268, 277, 415 women’s  80–2, 114, 671 of state  149, 156, 194, 254, 275, 383–4, 401, 406 see also nightcaps cassocks  44, 100, 166, 199–200, 257, 264, 276, 654 Christmas clothing see holiday clothing clasps  400, 494, 517 see also under gowns, women’s; kirtles; partlets cleaning of clothing  61, 143, 499 cloaks, men’s  10, 13, 28, 43, 45–50, 56, 72, 75, 77, 101, 127, 147, 152, 154, 171, 233, 275, 279–80, 289–90, 312, 528, 544, 550, 590, 614–15, 662 construction of  45, 48 jurnales (journey cloaks or coats)  49, 161, 213, 215 lining for  45, 48, 179, 213, 233, 242, 251, 255, 267, 271, 273, 585 mourning  134, 222, 269, 275, 346, 561, 563, 570, 572–9, 581, 645 of black  186, 261, 284, 525, 533, 543, 556, 563, 565, 575, 579, 636–7, 645 of cloth of the seal of Rouen  245, 273, 288–9, 326, 528, 534 of color de roy  158, 255, 261, 522, 542, 567 of English brown  524 of French black  199, 227, 264, 270, 347, 553, 562–3, 605, 631, 634–5 of French tawny  183 of frieze  142, 165, 168, 176, 179–80, 200, 207, 255, 257, 260, 264, 266, 275, 281, 283, 285, 287, 298, 303, 309–10, 351–3, 355, 358, 360–1,

364–5, 367–70, 372, 374, 377–9, 536, 543, 560, 564–6, 572, 576, 601–2, 604, 615–16, 648–9 of fustian?  356–7, 371 of pile gray  282 of Paris black  254, 292, 315, 374–5, 537, 552, 554–7, 559, 574, 604, 632, 648–9 of red  545–8 of Rouen tawny  201, 264 of russet  140, 205, 257, 265, 275, 523 of scarlet  140, 526 of serge  246, 251, 273–5 of silk  150, 238, 260, 272, 585 of Spanish frieze  42, 137, 158, 161, 172, 182, 187, 190, 198, 202, 255, 258–62, 264–5, 304, 311, 343, 359, 369, 377, 554, 589 of stemming  213, 221–2, 226, 232–3, 235, 239, 242, 267–73, 275, 346, 578, 581 of unpressed black  220, 236, 245, 268, 271, 273, 527, 532, 551, 561, 570, 573, 577, 621, 633 riding  150, 154, 158, 205, 220, 227, 238, 255, 264, 268, 270, 272–3, 275, 282, 585 Spanish  49, 156, 186, 211, 254, 261, 267, 275, 327, 552–3 with buttons  45, 48–9, 205, 215, 233, 236, 238, 261, 265, 267, 271–2, 326 with cantailyes/cantailȝeis/cantelyeis  48, 236, 238, 271–2, 326 with coat of the same fabric see under coats with sleeves  48, 326 see also mantles; pes cloaks, women’s  9, 78, 90, 99, 102–4, 109, 129, 136, 141, 381, 383, 459, 641, 667, 677–8 lining for  467, 477 mourning  132, 620 of black  414, 502, 618 of cloth of the seal of Rouen  399, 404 of French black  393–4, 403, 490, 514–15, 619, 628–9 of Paris black  407–8, 420, 425, 444, 446, 487, 489, 501, 507, 512, 517, 627 of scarlet  385, 392, 401–2, 405 of Scottish black  415, 622 of silk  458, 466–7, 477, 480 of unpressed black  439, 441, 449, 499, 510–11, 620 of utterfine  590–1 riding  385, 393–4, 399, 401, 403–5, 415, 420, 425, 441, 444, 446, 449, 451, 501, 505, 507, 510, 618, 625, 627 with fur  103, 458, 467, 477, 667 with sleeves  103, 408, 420, 444 see also mantles; pes coats, men’s  12, 27–8, 32–3, 38–45, 50, 52, 53 n.60, 56, 61, 77, 100–1, 123, 132, 147, 150–1, 153, 279, 528, 544, 560, 585, 590, 654–5



Gener al Inde x to the Te xt 6 9 9

construction of  35, 40–2 lining for  41–4 of black gray  170, 183, 205, 258, 260, 265, 281, 294, 308, 310, 597 of blue  350 of bocasin  238, 272 of bombazine  249, 252, 274 of buckram  41, 158, 161, 172, 175, 179, 181, 185–7, 191, 193–5, 202, 221–3, 236, 240, 245, 251, 255, 258–65, 269, 271–4, 288, 303–4, 308, 310–11, 328, 332, 335–6, 342, 345, 347, 374, 533, 545, 548 of canvas  205, 265, 571, 635 of fustian  170, 183, 193, 212, 214, 216–17, 226, 228, 232, 235, 243, 246, 258, 260, 262, 266–8, 270–1, 273, 314, 318, 340 of gray  28, 140, 158, 161, 255, 263, 298, 301, 306–7, 309–11, 313, 316, 318, 320–1, 323, 329, 333, 338, 340–1, 343–4, 353, 357, 361, 364, 367–70, 524, 528, 540, 547, 577, 594, 598, 633, 650 of taffeta  654 of taffeta of cord  239, 272 of unknown material  283, 295, 314, 320, 352, 361, 523, 535, 538–9, 551, 569, 580, 593, 595–6, 598–9, 604–5, 616–17, 628, 638 of white  639 lining for the breasts and scyes of  170, 227–8, 232, 235, 238, 240, 242–3, 246, 251–2, 258, 270–4, 328, 342, 374 mourning  76, 134, 186, 222, 225, 261, 269, 275, 290, 346, 380, 384, 535, 541, 560–2, 567, 569–70, 572–3, 575–7, 579, 581, 591, 637 of black  284, 288–9, 298–9, 301, 309–10, 312, 522, 525, 527, 535, 539–40, 556, 558, 560, 562–3, 566–7, 569, 575, 587 of blue  627 of brown  236, 271, 524 of cloth of the seal of Rouen  534 of color de roy  23, 179, 260, 521, 537, 539, 542, 566–7, 569, 592, 634–5 of damask  36, 150, 240, 272, 289, 318, 321, 340 of demigrain  577, 580, 593–7 of demi-ostage  581 of double worsted  550–1 of English cloth  41, 175, 245, 259, 273, 564 of French black  290, 323–4, 347, 380, 562–3, 587, 613, 645 of French tawny  182–3, 260 of French white  318, 594 of frieze  101, 150, 165, 179, 255, 257, 260, 275, 280–1, 283, 295, 297–8, 303, 305–7, 309–12, 314, 351–2, 357–8, 361, 364, 366–71, 374, 378–9, 543, 564, 604 of grauce  319–20







of gray  154, 181, 260, 286, 318, 353, 367, 372, 534, 538, 568, 574, 616–17, 648–9 of green  360, 369, 598, 643 of grosgrain  35, 141, 150, 155, 177, 195, 228, 248–50, 252, 259, 263, 270, 274–5, 335, 344–5 of in grain  216, 320–1 of kersey  571, 599, 648 of leather  44, 50, 138, 150, 157, 184, 222, 239, 255, 261, 269, 272, 275, 282, 285, 287, 304, 310, 351, 355, 360, 363–4, 368–71, 377, 537, 543–4, 546, 559–60, 565, 572, 576, 603, 631 of moran? grain  165, 257 of Paris black  186, 261, 292, 328–30, 341–3, 360–1, 369, 374–5, 384, 531, 537, 555–7, 604, 615, 632, 650 of red  545–8, 598, 634 of russet  140, 187–8, 194, 205, 261, 263, 265, 270, 339–40, 523, 539 of satin  32, 164, 211, 217, 267, 349 of scarlet  140, 526 of Scottish black  637 of Scottish cloth  592 of serge  246, 251, 273–5 of Spanish frieze  158, 161, 172–3, 176, 182, 187, 190–1, 198, 202, 255, 258–62, 264–5, 300–1, 304, 310–11, 555 of stemming  213–14, 221–3, 226–7, 232–3, 235, 239, 242–3, 267–75, 346, 578, 581 of taffeta  34, 150, 153, 206–8, 266, 275, 295, 308, 349–50 of taffeta of grosgrain see of grosgrain of unknown material  170, 241, 258, 275, 308, 311–12, 334, 340, 371, 463, 532, 535, 599, 638, 646–7, 650 of unpressed black  333, 336–7, 344, 531, 550, 561, 573, 577, 579, 633 of utterfine  591 of velvet  28, 31, 124–5, 150, 185, 193–4, 199, 212, 217–18, 226–7, 238, 241, 259, 261–4, 267–8, 270, 272, 275, 291, 293–4, 308, 313–16, 318, 323–4, 328, 332, 338, 342, 351, 364–6, 370–1, 576–8 of white  571, 577, 580, 595, 598–9, 634, 639 particolored  138–40, 571, 577, 580, 594–5, 598–9, 605, 634 riding  43, 72, 182–3, 187, 194, 205, 216, 223, 236, 245, 260–1, 265, 267, 269–71, 273, 275, 286, 293–4, 297, 309, 312, 351, 353, 367, 371 with buttons  41–4, 161, 170, 173, 175–6, 179, 182, 184–8, 191, 194–5, 202, 205, 207–8, 212, 214, 216–18, 221–3, 227–8, 233, 235–6, 238–40, 243, 245–6, 249, 251, 255, 258–63, 265–74, 288, 297, 303–4, 306–7, 309–11, 313–14, 316, 320–1, 323, 328–9, 332–3, 335–6, 339–40, 342–5, 361, 369, 375, 523, 533, 545–8, 654

70 0

Inde x A



with cantailyes/cantailȝeis/cantelyeis  238, 240, 245, 248, 252, 272–4, 328–9, 333, 341–3 with hood  39, 138, 541 with a cloak of the same fabric  42, 45, 134, 150–1, 158, 161, 165, 172, 176, 179, 182, 187, 190–1, 198, 202, 205, 213–14, 221, 226, 232–3, 235, 239, 242–3, 246, 251, 280–1, 284, 288–9, 303–4, 346–7, 358, 361, 364, 374–5, 378–9, 523–6, 533–4, 537, 542–3, 545–7, 555–7, 562–3, 567, 573, 575, 577–9, 581, 604, 632–3, 650 with pockets  42, 164, 213–14, 226, 228, 232–3, 236, 246, 252, 256, 267, 270–1, 273–4, 295 coats, women’s  384 codpieces 53 coifs  64, 65 n.86, 67–9, 75, 80, 221, 232, 234, 250, 268, 271, 274, 277 collars, men’s  36, 61, 127 of gowns  29, 35, 208, 266 of the Order of the Cockle  154 of shirts  228, 230, 235, 242, 250, 270–1, 273–4, 375 collar’s, women’s  10, 80, 82, 104, 117–18, 421, 434, 445, 447, 451, 453–4, 459, 465, 467–8, 470–1, 476–80, 491, 506, 508, 515, 662, 668 combing cloths see under kerchiefs combs  77, 120, 174, 176, 191, 201, 221, 326, 330, 433, 465, 467 cornets  111, 114–15, 118, 418, 452–3, 481, 623 lining for  114, 387, 394, 403, 407, 418, 467, 478, 610, 612, 623 of satin  388, 393–4, 398, 401–4, 406, 455, 499, 513, 515, 517, 618 of velvet  385, 387, 401, 403, 406–8, 431, 447, 467, 478, 610–12 coverings (for helms)  128, 163, 181, 232, 256, 258, 271, 276, 282, 286, 605 crepes  114–15, 385, 423–4, 428, 433, 436, 445–8, 451, 461, 463, 467, 470, 476–8, 481, 483, 514, 516–17, 608 cutwork 80 divorce  23, 291, 383–4, 412, 484 n.90 doublets, men’s  8, 10, 28–9, 32–3, 38, 40, 42–3, 49–53, 56, 58, 61, 75–6, 96, 100, 126–7, 140, 147, 150, 153, 279, 293, 585, 589, 654–5, 662 arming see harness false  52, 150–1, 224, 226, 254, 269, 275 harness  123, 126–7, 151, 161, 255 lining for  50, 52 of blue  306, 311 of bocasin  249, 251, 274 of canvas  208, 238, 266, 272, 359, 369, 545–6, 571 of fustian  168, 173, 175, 177, 182, 188, 192, 196–7, 199, 203–4, 207, 210, 213, 215, 218, 222, 224, 229–31, 237, 243, 257–73, 311, 316, 319–20,

324, 330–1, 336, 338, 343, 350, 360, 362–3, 365–6, 369–70, 375, 530, 533–4, 595 of gray  306, 314 of kersey  361, 369 of linen or lining cloth  247, 252, 273–4 of red  281, 302, 305, 310–11, 576 of taffeta  351, 573 of taffeta of cord  204, 238, 265 of taffeta of Genoa  249 of unknown material  282–3, 285, 287, 295, 297, 301, 320, 352–4, 356–9, 362–3, 376, 523, 535, 537–9, 547, 551, 559, 572, 593–6, 604–5, 616–17, 628, 633, 638 of white  282, 301, 310, 526, 528, 548, 635 of bombazine  302–3, 305, 310–12, 336–7, 348 of canvas  52, 143, 150, 161, 196, 209, 225–6, 250, 254–5, 263, 266, 269, 274–6, 282, 285, 359, 369, 371, 532, 538, 546, 571, 592, 628 of fustian  52, 286–7, 290, 295, 297, 300–1, 309–10, 312, 319–21, 324, 330, 342–3, 347–8, 351–8, 361–3, 367–73, 521–6, 528, 530–2, 535, 537, 539, 542–3, 545–8, 557, 559, 566–9, 574, 581, 592–6, 603, 613, 616–17, 621–2, 631, 633–5, 638 of grosgrain  155, 229, 231, 237–8, 243, 247, 249, 251–2, 270–4, 276, 335, 344 of leather  52 of red  605 of satin  52, 137, 147–9, 151, 154, 159, 173, 182, 184, 188, 192, 197, 199–200, 203–4, 207–10, 212– 15, 218, 222–4, 230, 252, 255, 258, 260–70, 274, 276, 282, 284, 287–9, 300, 307, 310–12, 324, 331–2, 347–52, 359–63, 366–7, 369–71, 375–6, 528, 533–4, 536–7, 541, 554–5, 565, 573, 593–5, 605, 615, 648–9 of serge  587 of taffeta  31, 206–7, 214, 266–7, 276, 295, 302–3, 306, 310–12, 315–16, 318–19, 331–2, 338, 349–50 of taffeta of grosgrain see of grosgrain of unknown materials  168, 170, 175–8, 211, 244, 257–9, 276, 308, 311–12, 321, 340, 535, 541, 569, 638 of velvet  50, 154, 280–1, 283, 289, 291, 297, 309, 351, 361, 365–6, 369–71, 374, 378–9, 555–6, 562, 564, 572, 576, 580, 585, 602 of white  605 of wool  52 of worsted  306, 311, 314, 500–1, 586–7 pattern for  229 slashed and pinked  52, 238, 249, 272, 274, 351, 362, 369 stiffening for  52, 168, 170, 173, 176–7, 188, 204, 207–8, 210, 213–14, 218, 229, 247, 249, 251–2, 302, 306, 308, 310–11, 314, 318, 320–1, 324, 336, 338, 343, 363, 532, 534, 548



Gener al Inde x to the Te xt 70 1



with buttons  52, 173, 182, 188, 196–7, 204, 207–8, 210, 213–14, 218, 224, 229–31, 237–8, 247, 252, 258, 261, 263, 265–74, 289, 307, 311, 324, 331, 357, 368, 375 doublets, women’s  101–3, 119, 383, 399, 404–5 drinksilver see under gratuities ecclesiastical clothing  31–2, 73, 102, 119, 289–90, 586, 639 Edinburgh  142, 169, 192, 377, 437, 460, 483, 510, 615, 656, 658 castle of  377, 384, 583, 588, 604, 615, 647 material gotten from the castle of  44, 162, 166, 168, 419 transportation of clothing to and from  142, 164, 179–80, 183, 233, 239, 241, 244, 248, 400, 422, 482 embroidery  8, 11, 32–3, 49, 68–9, 80 n.5, 82, 92, 99 n.81, 117 n.147, 125, 138, 140–1, 148, 151–2, 159, 190, 211, 220, 255, 268, 384, 594, 657–9, 667–8 English hoods  111 eyelets   53, 58, 75, 97, 127, 253, 274, 665 fabric measurements  22 fashion English  6, 9, 27, 32, 34–5, 38, 61, 64, 65 n.86, 72, 78–82, 85, 94–6, 99–100, 107 n.109, 108–11, 114, 116, 127, 136, 138, 661 French   6, 27, 29, 32, 34, 78, 82, 94, 110–14, 124, 131–2, 149 Low Countries  6, 27, 78, 82–5, 110–11 Scottish  1–2, 7–8 men’s  27–77 women’s  78–122 see also individual garment names fastenings see buttons under coats; cloaks, men’s; doublets, men’s; doublets, women’s see also eyelets; lacing; hooks and eyes; points flyting  13, 674 fools, clothing for  102, 643 fool of Craigmillar  648 Janet Curllaw  140, 642 John Lowis  541, 598, 637–8 Robeson/Robesoun  63, 138, 140, 597–9, 603, 606, 644 Will Somers  138 footwear see shoes; boots; slippers; buskins French hoods see under hoods, women’s frocks  99–101, 434, 448, 450 funeral clothing see mourning clothing fur  8, 13, 81 n.11, 100–1, 148–9, 198, 263, 278, 482, 659–60, 665, 667, 676 budge see lamb ermine   81 n.11, 82, 89, 92, 129, 136, 384, 393, 403, 416, 419, 431, 440–4, 446, 449, 621, 623–4, 650, 658



lamb  31, 93, 246, 267, 289, 302, 310, 395, 403, 429, 446, 458, 677 lamb, black  31, 93, 299, 302, 309–10, 466, 475, 477, 479 lamb, white  97–8, 302, 400, 435, 448, 458, 654 lettice  9, 136, 440, 449, 661 linings of  29, 32–3, 188, 654 lynx  33, 217, 264, 346, 654 marten  8–9, 35, 217, 246, 267, 273, 653–5, 659, 661 miniver  8, 89, 136, 440, 449, 659 rabbit  35, 93, 100, 217, 237, 246, 253, 267, 272, 275, 347, 391, 395, 402–3, 434, 448, 458, 466, 475, 477, 479 sable see marten see also night gowns see also under cloaks, women’s; gowns, men’s; gowns, women’s; petticoats gable hoods  111 galdcloaks 647 garnishings see under hoods, women’s garters  28, 75, 77–8, 128, 152, 296, 313, 667 of ribbon silk  325 of taffeta  167–8, 178, 187, 199, 202, 205, 209, 219, 221, 255, 257, 260–2, 264–6, 268–9, 272, 278, 296, 298, 300–1, 303, 305, 307, 309–11, 315, 322, 359, 369, 372 of taffeta of cord  160, 163–4, 167, 174, 184, 193, 204, 255–7, 259, 261–3, 265, 278, 285 of taffeta of four threads  184, 214, 217, 231, 235, 242, 244, 248, 261, 267–8, 270–1, 273–4, 278 of taffeta of Genoa  157, 162, 177, 180, 211, 221, 254, 256, 259–60, 266, 268, 278, 306, 311, 314 girdles  80, 82, 119–20 see also belts gloves, men’s  73–4, 152, 164, 169, 175, 179, 188, 192–3, 196, 198, 200–2, 205, 215, 225, 230, 232, 240, 244, 256, 258–60, 262–5, 267, 269–73, 277, 279, 298, 305, 307, 309, 311, 313, 316, 321, 330, 333–4, 337, 339, 344, 483 mittens  73, 333 of plate  73, 127, 166, 257, 276–7 perfumed  73–4, 244, 273 shooting  73, 337 gloves, women’s  119, 401, 404, 406, 426, 432, 443, 446–7, 450, 452, 456, 458, 472, 474, 479, 481, 483, 666 gorgets  105, 387, 390, 393–4, 398, 400–5, 475, 479–80, 515 gowns, men’s  4, 9–10, 13, 28–36, 38, 75, 99, 143, 147, 150, 157, 190, 262, 279, 299–300, 311–12, 317, 378, 550, 589, 654–5, 661–2 as part of a matching ensemble  32, 42–3, 56, 150–1, 153, 155, 177, 199, 201, 206, 208, 240–1, 248–50, 252, 279, 291, 294–5, 300–2, 308, 335, 344, 349, 578, 587, 591, 613, 638

702

Inde x A

clerk’s fashion  31–2, 289–90 construction of  33–6 lining for the scyes of  35, 350 lining for  35 of buckram  35, 159, 177, 275, 308, 311 of demi-ostage  294, 308 of fustian  207, 210, 266 of satin  655 of white  639 lining under the borders and furring of  35, 237, 240, 252–3, 259, 272, 274, 335, 345 mourning  31, 131–6, 150, 186, 223, 261, 269, 275, 290, 322, 341, 380, 591, 638 night see night gowns, men’s of black  223, 269, 587 of camlet  87 of damask  150, 217, 237, 240, 248, 254, 272, 275 of French black  87, 290, 380, 555–6, 585–7, 613, 638 of frieze, 295, 300–1, 308, 309, 312 of gray  301, 310 of grosgrain  52, 141, 155, 177, 248–50, 252–3, 259, 274–5, 322, 335, 341, 344 of Paris black  87, 186, 261, 378, 540 of russet  581 of satin  32, 217, 246, 248, 291, 349 of Scottish black  639 of taffeta  29–31, 34, 153, 206, 208, 224, 266, 275, 294, 302–3, 308, 310, 312, 322, 349 of taffeta of grosgrain see of grosgrain of unknown material  601 of unpressed black  134 of utterfine  591 of velvet  31, 199, 264, 275, 293–4, 308, 578 of worsted  29–31, 302–3, 310 riding  31, 77, 131, 639 scyes of  35, 217, 350 winter  31–2, 301, 310 with cantailyes/cantailȝeis/cantelyeis  240, 248, 252, 272, 274 with fur  31, 34–5, 155, 217, 237, 246, 248, 253, 264, 272, 275, 293, 299–300, 302, 309–10, 345–6, 601 with hoods  31–2, 639 gowns, women’s  78, 80, 82, 85–93, 96, 98, 104–8, 119, 121, 341, 381–2, 384, 392, 402, 411, 416, 643, 650, 657–8, 661, 665, 667, 671, 674, 676–7 construction of  90–2 everyday  85, 496, 509, 513 fastenings of  428, 446 see also with clasps lining and canvas for the bodies of  90–1, 108, 386, 393, 396, 398–9, 403–4, 407–8, 417–18, 420, 425, 427, 431, 440–1, 444–9, 455–7, 461, 463–5, 469, 472–4, 476–9, 496, 500, 506, 508–9, 513, 609–12, 614, 620–1, 623, 625, 627, 629, 631









lining for the scyes of  91, 95, 386, 414, 417, 420–1, 425, 431, 444–5, 447, 503–4, 510, 611, 624, 626 lining of  90–1, 382, 387–8, 390, 392–3, 396–9, 402–4, 407–10, 417–22, 425, 427, 430–1, 433, 436, 438–9, 441, 444–9, 455–7, 461–3, 465, 468–9, 472–5, 477–9, 489–90, 493–4, 496, 499, 501, 503–4, 506, 508–11, 513, 516, 608–9, 611, 613–14, 618–21, 623–7, 629–30 mourning  94, 117, 132–6, 440, 449–50, 604, 608, 620 of black of the seal of Rouen  87, 439–41, 449–50, 457–8, 486 of camlet  8, 87, 89–90, 94, 386, 407–8, 410, 417, 444, 450, 453–4, 489, 491, 496, 502, 510, 513 of cloth of gold  87, 427–8, 430, 446, 450 of cloth of silver  87, 430, 446, 450 of damask  87, 89, 92, 94, 382, 386, 416–17, 438, 444, 448, 450, 459, 461–2, 468–70, 474, 476–80, 486–90, 494–5, 499–500, 503, 506–7, 509, 610–12, 626–7 of French black  418–19, 490, 498, 501, 609, 612–14, 619–20, 623–5, 630, 646–7 of frieze  87, 101, 389, 402, 420, 422–3, 445, 450, 506 of grosgrain  87, 619 of Lille black  608 of Paris black  407–9, 413–14, 416, 418–19, 444, 462, 477, 485, 487, 489, 498–9, 501, 507–8, 622–3, 625–7 of satin  87, 89–90, 382–3, 398–400, 404, 427, 433, 438, 446–8, 450, 494, 500, 511–13, 518, 610, 626–7 of Scottish russet  87, 628 of stemming  87, 472–3, 479 of taffeta  86–7, 89, 92, 385–6, 416, 421, 424–5, 444–5, 450, 455, 460–2, 476–7, 479, 492, 514, 516–17, 618 of unknown material  87, 456, 461, 463, 480, 496, 512, 629 of unpressed black  87, 410–11, 618, 621 of utterfine  608 of velvet  86–7, 89, 91–2, 383, 390, 392–4, 396–400, 402–4, 416–17, 423–4, 427, 430–2, 435–6, 438, 444–8, 450, 459, 462–5, 471–2, 475, 477, 479–80, 493, 504, 514, 516–17, 611 of worsted  87, 484, 486, 493, 496, 502–3, 509–10 riding gown/cloak  85, 90, 103, 413, 420, 444, 450, 627 walking  85, 420, 444 wedding  85, 108, 128–31, 382, 493, 503, 514, 516 with clasps  92, 136, 396, 398, 410, 434, 440–1, 454, 457, 462, 472, 512–13, 620–1, 630 with fur  89, 92, 136, 393, 403, 416, 419, 431, 440–3, 449, 620–1, 624



Gener al Inde x to the Te xt 703



with a kirtle of the same fabric  385, 408, 416, 418, 427, 484, 486, 502–3, 624, 626 with material to “draw forth” the sleeves  86–7, 437, 448, 450, 470 with a train  39, 87, 91, 403, 435, 438, 447–8, 493, 514, 516, 626 gratuities  176, 191 drinksilver  180, 188, 202, 210, 215, 225, 240, 249, 253, 316, 320, 330, 333, 340, 416, 428, 432, 438, 442, 474, 482–3, 589, 626 handkerchiefs men’s  63, 74–5, 157, 166, 169, 181, 187–8, 202, 204, 209, 218, 232, 255, 257–8, 260–3, 265–6, 268, 271, 273, 278, 317, 337 gold for decoration of  180, 190, 198, 202, 209, 232, 260, 262, 264–6, 268, 271 women’s  107, 118, 445, 452, 465, 476–7, 479, 481 harness doublets see under doublets, men’s hats, men’s  12, 28, 64, 67–9, 134, 177, 184, 199–200, 210–11, 221, 223, 235, 241, 247, 259, 261, 264, 266, 269, 271–2, 274, 277, 300, 310, 312, 316, 327, 334, 345, 348, 547, 558, 585, 587 lining for  67, 210, 221, 247, 266, 269, 274 hats, women’s  116, 379, 400, 404–5, 409, 425–6, 428, 433, 445–7, 449, 456, 467, 478, 480, 515–16, 625–7, 666 lining for  116, 441, 449 headwear see bonnets, men’s; bonnets, women’s; caps; coifs; hats, men’s; hats, women’s; hood’s, men’s; hoods, women’s; kerchiefs; nightcaps helms  127–8, 163, 165, 167–8, 171, 176, 181, 185, 232, 256–9, 261, 271, 276–7, 280, 282, 286, 605 see also coverings heraldic clothing  138–40, 571, 577, 580, 594–5, 598–9, 605, 627–8, 634 see also display livery under livery clothing holiday clothing  137, 181, 203–4, 428, 582–4, 590, 600 hoods and hooded clothing, men’s  31–2, 39, 45, 49, 138, 194, 263, 289, 599, 639 see also under coats, men’s; gowns, men’s; mourning clothing hoods, women’s  9, 81, 92, 96, 105, 110–14, 118, 130, 381, 388, 390, 397, 400, 402–4, 406–9, 411, 414, 418, 420, 424–5, 431, 435, 437, 439, 444–5, 447–9, 451–2, 455, 459, 463, 484, 488–93, 496, 499, 501–2, 504, 506–9, 513–15, 517, 609, 619, 623–4, 627, 629–30, 643, 660–1, 665, 668 bag-style  112–14, 460–2, 464–5, 469–70, 473, 476–9, 481 billiments  114–15, 129 bongraces  114, 418, 444, 455, 618, 623, 625, 627 construction of  114



cornets  114–15, 385, 387–8, 393–4, 398, 401–4, 406–8, 418, 431, 447, 452, 455, 467, 478, 481, 499, 513, 515, 517, 610–12, 618, 623 lining for  114, 387, 394, 403, 407, 418, 467, 478, 610, 612, 623 crepes  114–15, 385, 423–4, 428, 433, 436, 445–8, 451, 461, 463, 467, 470, 476–8, 481, 483, 514, 516–17, 608 English 111 French  82, 111, 129 furnished  393–4, 436, 512 gable 111 garnishings for  111, 115, 129, 400, 404, 432, 447, 494, 518, 611 lining for  111 of buckram  114, 436, 462, 464, 477 of gray  449 of satin  390, 393–4, 397, 402–4, 407, 418, 420, 423, 425, 431, 435, 444–5, 447–8, 455, 462, 477, 492–3, 499, 512–13, 609, 614, 623 of taffeta  114, 408, 414, 473, 479, 507–8, 629 of taffeta of four threads  411, 464, 477 of taffeta of the cord  393, 403, 469, 478, 509 of toque d’argent  473, 479 Scottish 111 see also under mourning clothing hooks and eyes (clasps)  400, 494, 517 see also under gowns, women’s; kirtles; partlets hose, men’s, shanks or legs of  28, 57–9, 72, 75, 276 construction of  57–8 of black  173, 306, 311, 314, 371, 531 of cloth of Mechelen  163, 255 of gray  355, 368 of Paris black  366, 370 of scarlet  323 of stemming  59, 158, 163, 185, 198, 204, 223, 225, 255, 261, 263–5, 269, 276, 292, 307, 311, 346, 349, 369–71, 550, 560, 632, 645 of stemming of Milan  32, 57, 174, 178, 195, 197, 203, 207–8, 211–12, 217, 226, 229, 231, 234, 244, 251, 258–9, 263, 265–74, 324, 343, 347, 349 of unpressed black  365, 370 of utterfine  282, 300, 310, 321 of unknown material  287, 376, 532, 537, 559 hose, men’s, stocks or thighs of  28, 42–3, 50, 53–7, 151, 155, 244, 279, 312 construction of  56 display livery  139–40, 528, 532, 544–9, 593–9, 605, 627–8, 634 mourning  134–5, 222, 269, 276, 637 of black  165–6, 192, 257, 262, 276, 287, 296, 301, 309–10, 312, 357–8, 360–1, 368–9, 371, 379, 522, 525, 531, 535, 539, 541, 543, 551, 560, 635, 637–8 of blue  627–8

70 4

Inde x A

of demigrain  139, 532, 593–7 of French black  59, 203, 265, 554 of gray  8, 355–6, 361, 368–71, 521, 539, 603, 617 of Lille black  353, 364, 367, 670 of Paris black  167, 178, 185–7, 194–5, 197–8, 257, 259, 261, 263, 276, 374, 543, 555, 557, 604, 632 of pressed black  645 of red  318, 338, 340, 544–8, 634 of satin  199, 264 of stemming  159, 161, 168, 170, 184, 214, 255, 257–8, 267, 276, 303, 305, 310–12, 339, 348, 362–3, 366, 369–71, 523–4, 539, 542, 615–16, 635, 649 of stemming of Milan  57, 167–8, 175, 177, 219, 222, 258, 268–9, 284, 288–9, 319, 324–7, 329–34, 336, 342–3, 346, 348, 375, 526, 533–4 of twesane  551 of unknown materials  164, 285, 530, 532, 535, 540, 599, 638 of unpressed black  50, 287, 292, 306, 311, 370, 376–7, 527, 537, 550, 559, 621, 631, 633 of utterfine  137–8, 190, 262, 280–3, 290, 299–301, 309–10, 312, 352, 354, 356, 359, 364, 367–71, 373, 522, 525, 530–1, 559, 602, 613 of velvet  32, 56–7, 162, 168, 172, 197–8, 204, 207–8, 212, 217–18, 229–31, 236, 241, 243–4, 247, 251–3, 256–8, 261, 263, 265–74, 276, 296, 307–9, 311, 343, 347–51, 362–6, 369–71, 654–5 of white  140, 282, 285, 352, 356, 358–9, 367–70, 528, 538, 549, 592–5, 598–9, 634 riding  58–9, 203, 265, 276, 351, 356, 368, 371 with cantailyes/cantailȝeis/cantelyeis  231, 236, 241, 244, 270, 272–3, 343 with taffeta “drawn forth”  50, 56, 162, 166–7, 172, 195, 207, 256, 280–1, 285, 290, 301, 303, 306, 310, 351, 358–62, 364, 367–70, 374, 537, 554–5, 602, 616, 649 lining for  56 of black  326, 342 of black gray  363, 370 of cloth  289, 325, 327, 330, 332–4, 336, 375, 533 of demigrain  195, 198, 263 of gray  329, 361, 366, 369–70, 547 of red  179, 190, 192, 203, 207–8, 212, 217, 219, 231, 236, 241, 244, 247, 251, 253, 262, 265–8, 270, 272–4, 303, 305, 307, 310–11, 362–3, 365, 369–70, 544, 546, 577 of Scottish black  282, 285, 324, 353–4, 357–8, 367–8, 525, 530 of stemming  324, 523–4 of taffeta  168, 170, 178, 219, 231, 247, 257–9, 268, 270, 272–3, 307, 309, 311, 325–7, 329, 334, 336, 342, 356, 359, 363, 368–70, 525, 534 of taffeta of cord  203–4, 217, 265, 268, 346, 348, 526



of taffeta of four threads  197, 236, 263, 272, 288, 327, 333, 533 of taffeta of Genoa  223, 269, 330 of unknown material  50, 59, 161, 168, 170, 185–6, 283, 287, 300–1, 352, 356–60, 362–3, 365, 376, 531, 535, 537–9, 551, 559, 572, 578, 580, 593, 595, 604–5, 616–17, 623, 628, 638 of white  282, 301, 310, 528 hose, men’s, whole  53, 57, 151, 173, 258 hose, women’s  14, 78, 98, 109, 406, 481, 666–7, 671 of black  419, 444, 452, 507 of Paris black  517 of red  465, 477 of stemming  426–7, 446, 452, 456 of stemming of Milan  395, 403, 436, 438, 443, 448, 450, 471, 474, 478–9, 515, 631 of utterfine  128, 388, 401, 421, 424, 427, 445–6, 452–3, 493, 506, 508, 626, 630 identity and clothing see self-fashioning jacks  123–7, 144, 148, 157, 160, 162–3, 166, 168–9, 174, 189–90, 192, 196, 215, 254–8, 262–3, 267, 280, 282, 286, 351–2, 359, 367, 369, 371 aprons of  76, 125–7, 189, 192, 262, 276 construction of  125 arm guards and sleeves of  123, 125–7, 168–9, 189, 192, 257, 262, 276 jewelry  8, 80, 129–30, 461, 476, 481, 517–18, 659, 668, 676–7 chain to suspend the Order of St. Michael (Order of the Cockle)  155, 168, 257, 278 see also garnishings for under hoods, women’s journey cloaks/coats see under cloak jurnales see under cloak kerchiefs  9, 116–17, 421, 440, 449, 452, 508, 611, 613, 660, 668 combing  75–6, 179–80, 232, 260, 271, 278 head  82, 676 mourning  116–17, 136, 440, 442, 449, 452, 620, 661 night  67–9, 116, 160, 165, 174, 179, 195, 209, 225, 255, 257, 259–60, 263, 266, 269, 277, 423, 445 shoulder 80–1 see also handkerchiefs kirtles  78, 80, 82, 85, 89–90, 93–7, 99, 108, 382–3, 450, 665, 671 construction of  96 lining for of black gray  96, 388, 402, 408, 427, 445–6, 499–500, 608, 618 of buckram  403, 445, 626 of canvas  418 of demigrain  385–6, 401, 417, 444



Gener al Inde x to the Te xt 70 5



of gray  96, 393, 403, 421, 444, 447, 454, 456, 506, 511, 619, 623–5, 642, 644 of red  96, 391, 397, 402–3, 447, 514 of stemming  446 of taffeta  657–8 lining of bodies  96, 386, 396, 403, 407–8, 417, 427, 444–7, 455, 500, 511, 610, 612, 623, 627 lining of scyes  95–6, 99, 386, 388, 393, 402, 407–8, 417, 421, 425, 427, 429, 432–3, 444–5, 447, 454–6, 499, 504, 506, 511, 623–4, 627 men’s regalia  129, 156, 254, 275 of black  418, 444 of camlet  90, 128, 130, 408–10, 485, 488, 491, 493, 501–2, 506, 509, 622–3 of cloth-of-gold  130, 384, 430, 447, 657 of damask  90, 92, 94–5, 130, 411, 417, 425, 428, 432, 444–5, 447, 450, 455, 492, 503, 511, 518 of French black  624 of French brown  498 of gray  94 of green  643–4 of Paris black  416, 418, 444 of russet  140, 642 of satin  90, 94, 129–30, 384–5, 390–2, 397–8, 401–3, 405, 427–9, 446, 450, 487–8, 490, 492, 502, 504, 507–10, 610, 626–7, 657 of taffeta  90, 94, 396, 403, 405, 416, 444, 453–5, 492, 626–7 of unknown material  418, 444, 456, 643 of utterfine  94, 418–19, 590–1, 608, 623–4 of velvet  90–1, 94, 129, 386, 388, 393–4, 402–3, 405, 416–17, 431–3, 444, 447, 450, 455, 494, 500, 514, 612 of worsted  94, 407–8, 413–14, 421, 444, 450, 484, 486–7, 498–9, 501–3, 507–8, 618–19, 624–6, 646 significance of red  95–6 with a hood  643–4 with clasps  96–7 with lacing  97 with sleeves  94, 514, 626 knives  120, 434, 447, 452, 466, 477, 481 lace bobbin 92 needle  80, 80 n.5 lacing  92, 97, 130, 428, 446, 665 laundering of clothing  61, 143, 499 lining see under individual garment names Linlithgow tailors and others traveling to work there  142, 188, 248, 396, 437, 483 transportation of clothing to and from  181, 183, 231, 239, 246, 329, 335, 339, 341, 343–5, 394, 411, 435, 442, 463, 483, 547

livery clothing  28, 123, 133, 136–41, 144, 186, 532, 553, 565, 576 display livery  67, 138–41, 496–7, 523–4, 526, 528, 532, 571, 577, 579–80, 593, 596, 598–9, 627–8, 642 money for  21, 137, 538, 568, 582–4, 590, 592, 596, 599–600, 605–6, 634, 644 mantles  129–32, 614–15, 665, 676 see also cloaks, men’s; cloaks, women’s; robes military clothing  123–8 see also harness doublet under doublets, men’s and jacks; coverings mittens  45, 73–4, 333 money, system of in 16th c. Scotland  21–2 mourning clothing  9, 131–6 ceremonial hoods  111, 119, 131–2, 134, 136, 186, 261, 275, 290, 380, 440, 449, 451, 591, 637–8 customs and regulations regarding  119, 135–6 for the death of Marie de Guise’s father  29, 133–5, 222–3, 269, 292, 322, 341, 346, 522, 525, 527, 535, 539–41, 543, 550, 558, 560–3, 566–7, 569–70, 573, 575, 577–9, 581, 590–1, 604, 606, 645 see also under belts; bonnets, men’s; cloaks, men’s; cloaks, women’s; coats, men’s; gowns, men’s; gowns, women’s; hose, men’s; kerchiefs mufflers  118, 387, 418, 467, 478, 480, 517, 610, 612, 618, 623 napkins see handkerchiefs needle lace  80 needles  423, 445, 452 night gowns, men’s  36–8, 148, 159, 164, 211, 216, 245, 248, 255–6, 267, 273, 275, 294, 305, 308, 311, 325–6, 347, 653–4 night gowns, women’s  93, 130, 384, 391, 395, 397, 402–4, 429, 446, 450, 459, 466, 475, 477, 479, 657 nightcaps  63–4, 67–9, 219–20, 229, 268–70, 277 Order of St. Michael see Order of the Cockle Order of the Cockle see under collars; jewelry; ribbon overshoes see slippers padding and stuffing  22, 35–6, 85, 104, 107, 114, 125–7, 151, 214, 249, 253, 267, 274, 288, 459, 464, 469, 475, 478–9 see also stiffening for under doublets, men’s pairs of bodies  108, 433, 447, 451 pantonis see slippers parliament robes  254 partlets  78, 81–2, 85, 96, 105, 111, 666 of cloth  411 of linen  117

70 6

Inde x A

of velvet  80, 105, 129, 387, 390, 393–4, 397, 399, 401–5, 408–9, 411, 420, 423–4, 435, 437, 439, 444–5, 448–9, 451, 455, 457–8, 460, 463, 476–7, 480, 488–90, 493, 498–9, 502, 504, 508–9, 513–15, 609, 611, 613–14, 618, 622, 624, 627–30 of satin  105, 114, 393–4, 399, 401, 403–5, 407, 431, 447, 517 of unknown material  418, 444, 451, 623 lining for  80, 105 of buckram  399, 404, 411, 419, 624 of gray  419 of satin  397, 404, 418, 420, 425, 444–5, 623 of taffeta  388, 394, 401, 403, 435, 448, 455, 458, 463, 477, 509 taffeta of four threads  398, 404 of taffeta of the cord  393, 403 with clasps  105, 514 passementerie  29, 43–5, 56, 89, 116, 151, 279, 297, 309, 313, 381, 416, 459, 564 sewing on of  148, 159, 255, 281 of gold  49, 148, 193, 200, 215, 218, 228, 262, 267–8, 270, 384, 465, 477, 654, 657 of gold and silk  31, 77, 149, 157, 185, 199, 208, 255, 261, 264, 266 of silk  67, 103, 173, 178, 212, 229, 247, 258, 267, 270, 274, 280–1, 290, 332, 355, 457–8 of silver  120, 148, 318, 338 of silver and silk  150, 227, 270 of unknown material  137, 152, 176, 182, 194, 197, 228, 233, 259–60, 263, 270–1, 284–5, 295, 297, 308–9, 316, 353, 361, 367–9, 426, 446, 465, 477, 565 of wool/worsted  48, 351, 357, 368 patterns for clothing  129, 150, 229, 429 pes men’s  48, 356–7 women’s  102–3, 392–4, 425, 490, 499, 514–15, 619, 627, 629 see also cloaks, men’s; cloaks, women’s petticoats  96–9, 108–9, 129, 389, 397, 399–400, 402–4, 435, 437, 439, 446, 448–9, 458, 464, 469, 471, 474, 477–9, 515, 667 significance of red  95–6, 99 with fur  97–8, 400, 404, 435, 448, 458 Pinkie Cleugh  148, 190–1, 495, 568, 606 pins  121, 421, 423, 428, 445–6, 452, 456, 467, 472, 475, 478–9, 481 pockets see with pockets under coats, men’s points  28, 34, 49–50, 53, 59, 75–6, 85, 125, 151–2, 164, 166, 168, 170, 172, 174, 179–80, 188–9, 191–3, 195, 198, 200, 203–4, 209, 213, 218, 221, 225, 230–1, 237, 239, 256–70, 272, 278, 283, 285, 296–7, 300, 302–3, 305, 309–11, 313, 316, 319, 321–2, 325, 330, 334, 336, 338, 340, 342, 353, 361–2, 367, 369, 372, 375, 523, 527, 530, 545–8

political uses of clothing  6, 11–12, 28, 134, 148–50, 153–4 pullings-out (material “drawn forth”) see under gowns, women’s; hose, men’s, stocks or thighs of; sleeves purses  120–1, 152, 434, 447, 452, 573, 640 red (color), significance of  95–6 regency of the Earl of Arran alliance with France  6, 68, 78–9, 154 political and cultural context  6–7, 154–5 political uses of clothing  6, 28, 134, 153–4 self-fashioning of the Regent  148–50 repair of clothing  125, 127, 155, 163–4, 166, 168, 246, 256–7, 279, 382, 459, 468, 471, 475–6 see also alteration of clothing rhetoric and clothing  12–14 ribbon  153, 261, 389, 402, 406, 665–6 as belts  119–20, 321, 325, 330, 334, 339, 434, 447 as garters  75, 325 as points  92 for hats, caps, and bonnets  66, 68, 116, 216, 219, 268, 346, 416, 425, 428, 445–6, 451 for gowns and frocks  100, 190, 262, 448 for hoods  114–15, 400, 404, 464, 477 to suspend the symbol of the Order of the Cockle  155, 191, 193, 201, 205, 233, 262–5, 271, 278 robes 132 parliament 149 royal  129–30, 429–31, 446–7, 451, 670 “Rough Wooing” see war; battles rubbers  166, 466 see also laundering of clothing ruffs see under shirt safeguards  104–5, 395, 403, 405, 431, 435, 441, 447–51, 464, 469, 472, 474–5, 477–80, 491, 630 scyes 35 see also under coats, men’s; gowns, men’s; gowns, women’s; kirtles self-fashioning  11–12, 148–50 shirts  28, 53, 61–4, 68, 95, 123, 142, 149, 279, 283, 303, 621 construction and style of  61, 63, 162, 317, 322 of Bretagne cloth  319, 329, 334, 338 of Holland cloth  74, 160, 179, 187, 195, 202, 207, 209–10, 215, 220, 230, 235, 242, 250, 255–8, 260–1, 263, 265–8, 271, 273–4, 276, 298–9, 304, 309–10, 315 of linen cloth  285, 297, 309, 322–3, 355, 375, 529, 622, 638, 649 of unknown material  163, 165, 169, 181, 228, 266–7, 270, 276, 283, 286, 310, 312, 315, 368, 371, 530–1, 598–9, 637, 646–7 riding  351, 355, 368, 371



Gener al Inde x to the Te xt 707

with decoration  33, 151–2, 206, 213, 228, 266–7, 270 with ruffs  61, 63, 220, 228, 230, 235, 242, 250, 266, 268, 270–1, 273–4, 319, 322–3, 338, 375 shoes, men’s  45, 69–71, 147, 152, 279, 293, 528, 664 high  70, 159, 255 low  70, 159, 255 of unknown material  64, 141, 169–71, 178, 196, 224, 243, 250, 254, 257–9, 263, 266, 271, 273, 275, 277, 282, 298, 301, 303, 309–10, 333, 352, 354, 367, 372, 529–33, 544, 546, 549, 571, 598–9 of velvet  152, 157–9, 162, 164, 166, 175–6, 180–1, 183–4, 190, 204–5, 209–10, 212, 219, 221, 225, 229, 234, 237, 240, 242, 255–63, 265–73, 277, 299, 309, 315, 322, 341, 348, 350, 654 of wool  156, 222, 254, 269 shoes, women’s  109–10, 505, 666 of leather  110, 442, 450 of unknown material  427, 446, 452, 482–3, 508 of velvet  110, 395, 401, 403–4, 406, 426, 428, 436, 446, 448, 452, 456, 467, 470, 474, 478–9, 481, 668 of wool  110, 442, 449 riding  110, 389, 403, 406 skirts  89, 99 n.80, 101, 103–4, 383, 416 lining for  396, 399–400, 404, 411, 436, 448, 514, 620 mourning  136, 620 of cloth of the seal of Rouen  399, 404 of satin  129, 400, 404–5, 411, 436, 438–9, 448–9, 451, 514, 516 of velvet  102, 396, 399, 404–5, 514 of wool  411, 439, 441, 449, 451, 620 riding  399, 404 with sleeves of the same fabric  103–4, 129, 400, 404, 416, 436, 438, 448, 514, 516 sleeves (detached)  94, 103–4, 112 fore-  512, 658 of plate see under jacks of Holland cloth  476, 479–80 of lawn  471, 478, 480 of satin  103–4, 129–30, 388, 391, 400, 402, 404–5, 416, 425–6, 428, 436, 438, 445–6, 448, 451, 459, 464, 473, 475, 477, 479–80, 514, 516 of velvet  85, 104, 110, 128, 388, 401, 404–5, 435, 448, 451, 457, 459, 464–5, 469–70, 477–8, 480, 493, 509, 512, 514, 516 under-  78, 82, 85, 658 with skirt of the same fabric see under skirt with pullings-out (fabric to “draw forth”)  85, 388–9, 402, 405, 437, 451, 517 slippers or overshoes (pantonis) men’s  70–1, 156, 162, 166, 169, 178, 184, 191, 212, 242–3, 254, 256–9, 261–2, 267, 273, 277



women’s  70, 109–10, 234, 395, 403–4, 406, 436, 448, 452, 483, 671, 678 smocks  78, 80, 82, 105–7, 117, 459, 665 of Bretagne cloth  426, 437, 442, 446, 448–9, 451, 465, 477, 480 of Holland cloth  394, 403, 405, 429, 446, 451 of linen cloth  421, 445, 451, 454, 456, 468, 473, 478–80, 507 socks  72, 158–9, 164, 173, 175, 185, 190, 194, 198, 209, 213, 219, 226–7, 233–4, 242, 248, 254–6, 258–9, 261–3, 266–8, 270–1, 273–5, 277, 282, 286, 322, 348, 549, 639 sponges  143, 166, 172, 177, 181–2, 192, 224, 230, 244, 305, 332, 343, 401, 428, 437, 466, 472, 475, 678 see also laundering of clothing stomachers  130, 431, 447 storage of clothing  142–3 coffers  142, 201, 293, 296, 303, 317, 328, 466, 626 trunks  142, 239 wallets and bags  142, 225, 283 see also cases for under bonnets, men’s stuffing see padding sumptuary law  7–11, 659–62 theatricality in clothing  11–12 ties (fastenings) see points tippets men’s  127–8, 160, 163–5, 167–8, 171, 176, 181, 185, 232, 255–61, 271, 277, 282 women’s  119, 415, 465, 477, 481, 515, 635–6, 666 traces  69, 216, 221, 229, 234, 250, 268, 270–1, 274, 294, 308, 424, 426, 446, 655 transportation of clothing  141–2, 224, 483, 510 wrapped in fabric  141, 179, 183, 218, 233, 241, 244–9, 252, 296, 325–7, 330, 332, 334–5, 337, 345, 392, 397, 400, 409, 419, 422, 432, 440–2, 462, 473, 493, 585 see also storage of clothing see also under Edinburgh; Linlithgow trousseaux see wedding clothing vasquines  108–9, 476, 479–80 war  2, 7, 123, 148–9, 153, 155, 284, 378, 582 see also military clothing; battles wardrobe, administration of  142–3 wedding clothing and trousseaux  6, 85, 108, 115, 128–31, 140, 144, 429–31, 446–7, 488–9, 491, 493–5, 503–4, 514–17, 641–2 wyliecoats see petticoats Yule clothing  137, 181, 203–4, 428, 582–4, 590, 600

Index b

Index of People and Professions Acheson, John  423, 500, 551 Aikman, James  185 ale cellar, servants of  562, 569–70 almoners  544, 579 Anderson, John  97, 100, 142, 244, 385–7, 391–2, 394–8, 400, 410, 415–16, 432, 434, 440–1, 457–61, 494, 496, 504, 507, 510–11, 513–15, 517, 610–12, 619–20, 626 Argyll, Master of (Archibald Campbell?)  153, 317, 349–50 Arran, Master of see Hamilton, James, Master of Arran Auchmoutye, Master Robert  134, 560–2, 579 Avery, David  640 Aytoune, James  637 bakers  135, 560–2, 567 Bannatyne, Isabel, Lady Corehouse  409–10 Bannatyne, William, lord of Corehouse  76, 373–4 Bargany, Thomas  379, 589 Barroun, James  59, 66, 197–8, 203–4, 212, 215, 346, 430, 618 Baxter, Patrick  557 Beaton, David, Cardinal  292–3, 380, 581 Bell, Christiane  591, 593 Bell, Janet  337 Bogill  561–2, 570 Boswell, David of Auchinleck  411 Boswell, Jean, Lady Auchinlek (née Hamilton)  411 Brady 636 Bryde 571 butchers 567–8 Campbell, Archibald  349–50 captains  73, 124–5, 149, 377, 580–2, 604, 615, 646 Carmichael, James  205, 304, 307, 339 carpenters  583–4, 589 Cas (Kasche), Will the  605 Castellaw, Sir John  397 chamber children see grooms of the chamber chaplains  540–1, 613, 639, 645

Châtellerault, Duchy of  155, 536 Clark, Archie  435 Clerk, John  125–7, 157, 163, 166, 168–9, 174, 189, 196 clerks  19, 22, 289–90, 520, 584 see also individual names: Baxter, Patrick; Hamilton, John of Milburn; Henderson, Andrew; Wardlaw, Henry Cochran, Hans  582 Cochran, John  69, 220, 400 Colluthie, heiress of see Ramsay, Elizabeth Colville, William  558 comptrollers 558 constables  583, 588 Cook, John  601–2 cooks  29, 134, 520, 606 see also individual names: Criste, Lawrence; Duncan, James; Lowry; Marshall, Thomas; Mont, John Corbet, John  574 cordwainers (shoemakers) see individual names: English William; Frenchman, Paul; Leis, Homeir; Myrreleis, Thomas; White, William Cornell, John  644 Craig John  35, 93, 97, 100, 237, 246, 253, 325, 347, 393, 395, 400, 434–5, 441–3, 458, 466–7, 475, 621 Robert 177 Robert, wife of (unnamed)  185 Craigmillar, the Fool of  648 Craik (Craig), William  185, 187 Crawford Gilbert 552 John  137, 583 Nans 646 Crichton, Margaret  130, 518 Crichton, Margaret (seamstress)  151–2, 206, 213 Criste, Lawrence  566



Inde x of Peopl e and Pr ofe s sions 70 9

Cunningham Alexander, Master of Glencairn (later fourth Earl of Glencairn)  291 Jean/Janet, Mistress of Kilmaurs (née Hamilton)  90, 412–13, 494 Margaret? 494 cuphouse, servants of  563, 568–9 Curl, James  184, 304, 486 Curlaw, Helen  640 Curllaw, Janet  140, 640, 642–3 Dalyell, James  563 Dalziel, James see Dalyell, James Danielston, James  67, 196, 200, 227 Danielston, Walter  429 Dempstar, Henry  522, 535–6, 539–41, 569 Denogent, Robert  603–4 Dewar, Archibald  28, 31, 41, 48, 67, 171–3, 175–7, 180, 182, 184–7, 194–5, 198, 204, 206, 211–12, 215, 217, 220, 230–43, 245–53, 302, 304–6, 314, 317–18, 320–1, 324–38, 340–5, 349, 482, 524, 532, 544–8, 553, 585 Dougal, Master John  207, 350, 502, 510 Douglas Elizabeth/Elspeth  89–90, 136, 437–8, 617–21, 625 Hugh, wife of (unnamed)  187–8 Margaret  85, 87, 92, 101, 104, 109–10, 115–17, 119, 383–406, 607–14, 657–8 drivers  138, 579–80 Drummond James 593–5 John (trumpeter)  596–7 John (wright and gunner)  137, 584 Druppis, Bessie  590–1 Dudley, Amy  110 Duke of Châtellerault see Hamilton, James, Earl of Arran Dunbar, William  9, 27, 108, 135–6, 663–4, 675–8 Duncan, James  564 Dundas, Duncan  582 Dundas, Euphemie  622 Edward VI, King of England  7, 100 Effie 614–15 Elizabeth I, Queen of England  100, 130 Elphinstone, Andrew  440 Elphinstone, John  620 embroiderers  82, 125, 138, 140, 148, 159, 190, 594 Cochran, John  69, 220, 400 Hay, Gilbert  201, 215 Ross, Helen  131, 640–1 English William  110, 234, 237, 240, 242, 442 falconers  23, 29, 591–3 Ferre, George  172, 188, 198, 482 fiddlers  415 n.35, 606 see also violists Fleming, Elizabeth  195

Fleming, Robert  208 fools  63, 102, 134, 138, 140, 597–9, 603, 606, 637–8, 640, 642–4, 648 Forester (Foster), Alexander  156–8, 167–72, 290, 384, 386, 417 Forester (Forster), Master James  502 Forester, John  632 Forester (Forster), William  220, 633 Foster (Forstar), David  192, 212 Foull, Master James  174 Frenchman, Paul  474 friars  31–2, 639, 672 Frog, John  574 furriers 38, 89, 217, 299, 391, 429, 431 Craig, John  35, 93, 97, 100, 237, 246, 253, 325, 347, 393, 395, 400, 434–5, 441–2, 458, 466–7, 475 Elphinstone, Andrew  440 Elphinstone, John  620 Ferre, George  172, 188, 198, 482 Garintuly, Master James  348 Gilliam, Friar Thomas  32, 639 goldsmiths 654 Gordon, Alexander, Lord  66, 72, 136, 345–8, 415–16, 453, 496, 621, 627 Gordon, Lady see Hamilton, Barbara Gourlay Andrew  143, 522 Malcolm  142–3, 176–7, 183, 224, 352, 357–8, 522, 535, 541–2, 638, 646–7, 649 Robert  72, 143, 190–1, 193, 198, 200, 202–3, 209–10, 215, 219, 224, 228, 230–5, 237, 239–40, 242, 244, 250, 442, 522, 542–3, 629 Gray, Richard  207 grooms of the chamber  552, 644 see also individual names: Dempstar, Henry; Gourlay, Malcolm; Gourlay, Robert; Hamilton, Alexander; Hamilton, James of Orbiston; Kintaill, John Guise, Marie de  1 n.3, 6, 82–3, 85, 103, 106, 111, 120, 129–31, 134–5, 149, 154–5, 416, 445, 453, 459, 477, 573, 607, 628–9, 643 gunners  557, 582–4, 588–9, 647, 650 Hamilton Agnes 484–5 Alexander  521–2, 535, 540 Alexander of Innerwick and Ballincrief  606 Andrew (captain of Hamilton Castle)  580 Andrew (master of entry)  644 Andrew (servant of David Hamilton)  333, 634–5 Anne  85, 87, 92–3, 109, 112, 118, 341, 382, 433–5, 437, 453, 459–83, 614, 628–33 Archibald of Raploch  134, 558–61, 613, 645 Archibald, wife of see Ogilvy, Marion Arthur  140, 523–7 Arthur of Orbiston and Parkhead  527

7 10

Inde x b

Barbara, Lady Gordon  87, 89, 91–2, 96, 98–101, 105, 108, 115–20, 136, 143, 201, 228, 345, 385–6, 415–52, 458, 460, 462–3, 468, 500, 575, 612, 616–28 mourning clothing of  111, 136 wedding of  107, 129–30, 140, 495–7, 518 Bessie (niece of the Regent)  485–6 Bessie (servant to Margaret Douglas)  609, 614 Claude (son of the Regent)  28, 61, 63, 134, 141, 249, 318, 320, 328, 335, 337–45, 463 Cuthbert 372–3 David (son of the Regent)  134, 141, 249, 317–37, 345, 634–6 Master David  550–2 David of Bothwell  534–5 David of Broomhill (Brownhill)  157–8, 167 David of Orbiston  50, 572–3, 577 Sir David of Fingaltoun  581, 611 Elizabeth (daughter of Sir James Hamilton, Lord of Stonehouse)  130, 495 Elizabeth, Lady Calderwood (daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Finnart)  23, 129, 485, 487–91, 609 Elizabeth, Mistress of Sempill  406–9, 578 Elspeth 486–7 Euphemie/Euphame  104–5, 437, 459, 465–9, 471–2, 474, 614, 628–31 Grisel  129, 491–2 Isabel (servant to Margaret Douglas)  386, 609–11 Isobel, Young Mistress of Sempill  498–9 James (Constable of Edinburgh Castle)  583 James (heir to Sir James Hamilton of Finnart)  48, 126, 351–72, 636 James, Earl of Arran, Regent of Scotland  4, 7, 21, 28, 131, 134, 140–1, 144, 378, 495, 505, 520, 549, 568, 589, 606, 640 clothing for  36, 38, 41–4, 49, 52, 57, 63, 66–77, 125, 127–8, 134, 142, 147–278, 518, 552 James, lord of Stonehouse  377, 495, 558, 604, 609, 611, 615 James, Master of Arran, Master of Hamilton (son of the Regent)  31, 292–313, 633–4, 636 James of Avendale see Hamilton, James (heir to Sir James Hamilton of Finnart) James of Innerwick  606 James of Kinneil, Bishop of Argyll and Lismore 284–7 James of Orbiston  175, 177, 182, 196, 536–7, 601, 633 James of Samuelston  373 James of Sprouston and St. John’s Chapel  280–4 Master James  601 Sir James of Finnart  23 n.22, 48, 351, 414, 483–7, 491, 609 Jane/Janet (servant to Margaret Douglas)  386, 499–500, 611–13

Jean (daughter of the Regent)  90, 443, 453–9 Jean (half-sister of the Regent)  291, 413, 484 see also Boswell, Jean, Lady Auchinlek; Cunningham, Jean/Janet, Mistress of Kilmaurs Jean the Younger  500 John (a porter)  575 John (son of the Regent)  306, 313–17, 628 John (son of Sir James Hamilton, Lord of Stonehouse) 615–16 John of Ardoch  644 John of Bothwell  534, 575 John of Orbiston  527, 573, 576–7 John of Nelisland (Neilsland)  376, 609 John of Raploch  509 John of Samuelston  288, 376, 492 Master John, Abbot of Paisley, Bishop of Dunkeld, Archbishop of St. Andrews, Lord Treasurer   289–91, 550 Master John of Milburn  154, 287, 584–5 Margaret (niece of the Regent)  128–9, 376, 378, 492–4 Margaret (servant to Margaret Douglas)  609, 613–14 Margaret?, Lady Wemyss  414 Master of see Hamilton, James, Master of Arran Robert (son Sir James Hamilton, Lord of Stonehouse) 604 Robert of the Briggis  496 Robert of Perdowie (Bardowie)  378–9 Sir Robert of the Haggs  378, 609, 611 Thomas 544–9 Thomas of Gilestoune?  169 William of Colmskeith (Cambuskeith)  549 Sir William  379 Hay, Gilbert  201, 215 Hemessen, Catharina van  82, 85 Henderson, Andrew  550 Henderson, Robert  567–8 Henrison, George, wife of (unnamed)  506 Henry VII, King of England  127 Henry VIII, King of England  1, 7, 38, 73 n.120 and n.124–5, 74 n.129, 79, 96, 100, 136, 138, 141, 143, 149, 292, 643 inventories and warrants of  32, 44, 66, 94, 99, 120–1, 130 styles in the court of  29, 35, 69 Herries, heirs of  94, 107, 117, 119, 130, 391, 460, 501, 504–18 Agnes  90, 505, 507–8 Jean/Jane/Janet  86, 108, 129, 505–18 Katherine  85, 109, 117, 129, 505–18 Hill, William  589–90, 647 Hill, William, wife of (unnamed)  647, 650 Holbein, Hans  2 n.6, 31 n.15, 32 n.17, 33, 81 n.13, 88, 115, 130 n.35



Inde x of Peopl e and Pr ofe s sions 7 11

Huntley, Lady  496–7 Innerwick, Lord of  606 jack makers  215 see also Clerk, John James IV, King of Scotland  79, 108, 131 James V, King of Scotland  6, 12, 21, 29–30, 44, 49, 53 n.60, 65, 70–1, 80, 138, 141–3, 154–5, 499, 639, 653 mourning for  134, 289, 380, 383, 591, 608 servants of  520, 535, 541, 564, 567, 579, 582–3, 589, 591, 600, 603–4, 606, 637–8, 640–1 Johnson, William  183 Johnstone, Sir John of Johnstone  378 Johnstone, James?, the young lord of Johnstone  376– 7, 492 Kasche (Cas), Will the  605 keepers of Anne Hamilton see Hamilton, Euphemie of Barbara Hamilton  437, 468, 623–7 of David Hamilton  634–6 of dogs  574, 637 of John Lowis  637–8 of Mary Stewart  519 of Henry VIII’s wardrobe  143 of the Queen’s wardrobe  100 n.89 of the Regent’s children  614–16 see also of Anne H.; of Barbara H.; of David H. above of the Regent’s horse  571 of the Regent’s mules  577, 579–80 of the Regent’s wardrobe  143, 237, 542 see also Gourlay, Robert; wardrobe, servants of Keir (Kar), Elizabeth/Isobel  171–2 Kelly, Janet  426–7, 622–3 Kerr, William  211, 216, 320, 339, 365 Kerr, William, wife of (unnamed)  365 Kinloch, Paul  603 Kintaill, John  535–40, 569 Kirkcaldy, John  29, 142, 157 Kirkcaldy, William  379–80 Knox, John  8, 11, 584, 639 La Barthe, Paul de, Sieur de Thermes  149 lackeys  497, 541, 627–8 ladies-in-waiting and maidens of the chamber  111, 143, 382–3, 416, 445, 453, 459, 477, 485, 607–13, 617–21 Lady Fleming’s tailor (unnamed)  472, 628, 630 Lang, Neil  553–5 larder, servants of  561–2 Lauder Master Henry  171, 527–8, 641 Master Henry, daughter of (unnamed)  641–2 Master Henry, wife of (unnamed)  641 laundresses  143, 433, 468, 590–1, 597, 603, 644 Legs, Janet  643–4 Leis, Homer/Homeir  70, 234, 395, 436, 467, 483 Leper, David  32, 639

Leslie, Helen  82, 84–5, 87 Lindsay Friar Alexander  32, 639 John of Dowhill  384, 657–8 Master James  197, 240, 426, 551 see also Lyndsay, Sir David of the Mount Little, Clemmot, wife of (unnamed)  175 Livingston?, Alexander?, a son of the lord of Kilsyth  152, 380 Lord Governor of Scotland see Hamilton, James, Earl of Arran Lorraine, Claude de (brother to Marie de Guise)  149, 573 Lowis, John  598, 637–8 Lowry 566 Lowry, James  204, 234 lute-players  590, 606 Lyle, Lady Jean  90, 129, 460, 500–4, 510 Lyndsay (Lindsay), Sir David of the Mount  6, 9–10, 12–15, 45, 135, 496, 669–74 Madeleine of France  6, 82 n.15 maidens of the chamber see ladies-in-waiting Maitland, Sir Richard  8, 13–14, 78, 89, 98, 109–10, 666–9, 674 n.28 Makesoun, Alexander  376 Malwill, Gelis  593 Marjoribank, Master Thomas  488 Marshall, Patrick  567 Marshall, Thomas  638 Mary, Queen of Scots see Stewart, Mary Mary I, Queen of England  92, 94, 98, 104 n.99, 108, 110, 116, 119–20 masons 589 Masters (professions) of Entry  644–5 of Household  421, 562–3, 578 deputies to  134, 560–1, 570 of Works  544, 584–7 see also almoners; butchers; cooks; cordwainers; gunners; melters; pantry, servants of; smiths; stables, servants of; tailors; ushers; wrights melters 582 messengers  152, 213, 552, 557, 575 minstrels  10, 647, 662 Moffet, Robert  589 Mont, John  137, 564–5 Montgomery, Monsieur Lorges  571 Montgomery, Neil of Lainshaw (Langshaw)  501, 503 Mullings, Monsieur  527, 533 Murray, Bessie  61, 63, 75, 163, 166, 169, 180–1, 188, 190, 195, 218–19, 221, 224, 226, 229, 232, 304, 322, 329, 334, 432 n.55, 573 Murray, Elizabeth (seamstress) see Murray, Bessie Murray, Elizabeth (servant to the Regent)  573

7 12

Inde x b

Myrreleis, Thomas  70, 156, 166, 171, 175–6, 178, 183, 205, 210, 212, 224, 482 Narratius, Jacobus  63, 621–2 Nichol, Margaret  305 Nisbet, James  377 nurses  591, 593, 606 Ogilvy, Marion?  645–6 pages  63, 67, 76, 99 n.82, 140–1, 154, 186, 254, 523–34, 544–9, 648–9 Pannycuke  38, 59, 646–7, 650 pantry, servants of  134, 558–61, 613, 645–6 Paul, Sir James Balfour  2–3, 19–20, 289, 345, 412, 499, 527–8, 585, 646 Polwarth, Sir John  483 Polwarth, Sir Robert  544 Pook (Poak/Park), David  439, 443, 616–17 porters  575, 644 Preston, Archibald  134, 561, 570 priests  1, 102, 544 the Queen’s tailor (unnamed)  93, 382, 428, 432, 435, 437, 463, 465–75 Ra, Master John  607, 613 Rais, Master John see Ra, Master John Ramsay 621 Ramsay, Elizabeth  392, 461, 495–6 Regent see Hamilton, James, Earl of Arran Reid, Andrew  558 Robertson (Robesoun), Alexander  186, 366, 532, 622 Robeson, Master Nicholas  555–6 Robesoun (Robeson) the fool  63, 597–9, 643 Robesoun (a boy)  428 Ross, Helen  131, 640–1 Ross, Helen, daughter of (unnamed)  640–1 Rothes, Master of  491–2 Rowane, David  582 Rutherford, Andrew  376 Ruthven, Gilbert  468, 470, 631–2 saddlers  574, 615 n.15 scholars  36, 102, 648 Sclater (Slater), Dean John  585–7 seamstresses see individual names: Crichton, Margaret; Murray, Bessie see also tailors Sempill Grisel  495, 602, 611 Master Peter  588 Master Robert, later third Lord Sempill  406–7, 498, 578, 602 Mistress of see Hamilton, Elizabeth, Mistress of Sempill Young Mistress of see Hamilton, Isobel, Young Mistress of Sempill servants of King James V see under James V, King of Scotland servants, general  527, 534, 549

servants, personal  614–16 of Anne H.  628–33 of Barbara H.  616–28 of David H.  634–6 of James H. (Sir James H. of Finnart’s son)  636 of James H. (the Regent’s son)  633–4 of James H. (the Regent)  521–49 of Jean H.  625 of Margaret Douglas  607–14 of the Bishop of Glasgow  636–7 sewars 562–3 Simpson, Lawrence  483 Simpson, Robert  552, 557, 588 Skelton, John  12–13 Skyrling, John  588–9 Smith, George  483 smiths  589–90, 647, 650 Solier, Charles de  32 Somers, Will  38–9, 138, 643 Spense, David  317, 457 Spittell, Master Robert  604–5, 608 Spittell, Sir John  540–1 stables, servants of  140, 541, 571–3, 576 Stevenson, Alexander  590 Stevenson, James  59, 195, 197, 203, 427, 429 stewards  134, 579 Stewart a boy called  339 David  74, 333, 562–3, 578 Edward  21, 591–2 Edward, children of (unnamed)  23, 591–3 Henry, first Lord Methven  79 Henry, Lord Darnley  45, 47, 54, 73 John, Duke of Albany  80–1 Lady Jane, later Countess of Argyll  499 Marian  89 n.33, 623–5 Mary (later known as Mary, Queen of Scots)  4, 87, 99, 107, 112–13, 120, 132 n.43, 135, 292–3, 313, 380, 453, 519, 582, 625 Molly  87, 90, 99, 103, 107, 423, 625–7, 650 William 291–2 Stratoun, Claude  140, 186, 527–34 Tailliefeir, James  168 Tailliefere (Telliefere), William  387, 500, 610–12 tailors see individual names: Acheson, John; Anderson, John; Danielston, James; Dewar, Archibald; Forester (Foster), Alexander; Lady Fleming’s tailor; Leper, David; the Queen’s tailor; Ramsay; Robertson, Alexander; Simpson, Lawrence; Smith, George; Spittell, Master Robert; Tailliefere, William see also seamstresses Telliefere, William see Tailliefere, William Templeton  577, 579–80



Inde x of Peopl e and Pr ofe s sions 7 13

Teuch, Thomas  535, 540, 568–9 textiles and leather, suppliers see individual names: Aikman, James; Barroun, James; Carmichael, James; Craig, Robert, Craig, Robert, wife of; Craik (Craig), William; Curl, James; Dougal, Master John; Douglas, Hugh, wife of; Dundas, Euphemie; Fleming, Elizabeth; Fleming, Robert; Foster (Forstar), David; Gray, Richard; Henrison, George, wife of; Johnson, William; Kerr, William; Kerr, William, wife of; Lindsay, Master James; Little, Clemmot, wife of; Lowry, James; Marjoribank, Master Thomas; Stevenson, James; Waterstone, John Trale, James  636 treasurers  140, 289, 550 trumpeters  138–40, 571, 584, 593–7 Tudor, Edward (later Edward VI, King of England)  7, 100 Tudor, Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth I of England)  100, 130 Tudor, Margaret  79–81, 85, 100 n.89, 108, 117 Tudor, Mary (Queen Mary I of England)  92, 94, 98, 104 n.99, 108, 110, 116, 119–20

Turner  562, 569–70 tutors 621 ushers 581 Ure, John  577, 579–80 Vecellio, Cesare  36 violists  137, 600, 606 waiting maids and gentlewomen see ladies-in-waiting Wallace, John  552–3 Wardlaw, Henry  642 wardrobe, servants of  142–3 see also Gourlay, Andrew; Gourlay, Malcolm; Gourlay, Robert; Hamilton, James of Orbiston; Kirkcaldy, John see also under keepers Waterstone, John  183 Wemyss, Lady Margaret?  414, 484 White, William  243, 254, 549 Whiteford, John of Milnton  602–3 Wilson, Sir John  645 Wishart, George  45–6, 73 workmen 647 wrights  583–4, 589 writers 552–5 Young, Alexander  290

Index C

Index of Record Numbers Record Number Page

Paul’s Transcription Manuscript Location (Volume.Page Number)

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] [25] [26] [27] [28] [29] [30] [31] [32] [33] [34]

E21/40/13r E21/40/13r E21/40/13v E21/40/14r E21/40/14r E21/40/14v E21/40/14v E21/40/14v E21/40/14v E21/40/15r E21/40/16r E21/40/16v E21/40/17r E21/40/17v E21/40/17v E21/40/17v E21/40/17v E21/40/17v E21/40/19r E21/40/19r E21/40/19r E21/40/19v E21/40/19v–20r E21/40/20r–20v E21/40/20v–21r E21/40/23r E21/40/24v E21/40/24v E21/40/24v E21/40/25r E21/40/25r E21/40/26r E21/40/26r E21/40/26r–26v

384, 401, 406 156, 254, 275 94, 608 31–2, 291 591 638 380 535, 638 519 143, 499 156, 254, 277 613 637 N/A 143, 591 38, 647 32, 72, 639 642 156, 254, 275 29, 143, 157, 278 157, 254, 277, 278 125, 157, 254, 276 103, 385, 401, 405, 406, 608 385–6, 416–7, 444, 450 386–7, 417, 444, 500, 610–1, 612 552 157, 255, 275, 278 387, 401, 406 158, 255, 275 116, 119, 415 293–4, 308, 312 351–2, 367, 371 603–4 638

VIII.163 VIII.163 VIII.164 VIII.164 VIII.164 VIII.165 VIII.165 VIII.165 VIII.165 VIII.165 VIII.167 VIII.168 VIII.170 VIII.170 VIII.170 VIII.170 VIII.170 VIII.170 VIII.172 VIII.172 VIII.172 VIII.173 VIII.173 VIII.174 VIII.174 VIII.177 VIII.179 VIII.180 VIII.180 VIII.180 VIII.180 VIII.182 VIII.182 VIII.182



Inde x of Record Number s 7 15

Record Number Page

Paul’s Transcription Manuscript Location (Volume.Page Number)

[35] [36] [37] [38] [39] [40] [41] [42] [43] [44] [45] [46] [47] [48] [49] [50] [51] [52] [53] [54] [55] [56] [57] [58] [59] [60] [61] [62] [63] [64] [65] [66] [67] [68] [69] [70] [71] [72] [73] [74] [75] [76] [77] [78] [79] [80] [81] [82] [83] [84] [85] [86]

E21/40/26v E21/40/26v E21/40/26v E21/40/26v E21/40/26v E21/40/28r–28v E21/40/29r–29v E21/40/29v E21/40/30v E21/40/31v E21/40/31v–32r E21/40/32r E21/41/30v E21/41/30v E21/41/30v–31r E21/41/31r E21/41/33v E21/41/33v E21/41/33v–34r E21/41/35r E21/41/35r E21/41/35r–36r E21/41/35r–35v E21/41/36r E21/41/36r–36v E21/41/36v E21/41/37r E21/41/40r–40v E21/41/40v E21/41/40v E21/41/40v–41r E21/41/41v E21/41/41v–42r E21/41/42v E21/41/45v–46r E21/41/48r E21/41/56r E21/41/56v–57r E21/41/57v–58r E21/41/58r E21/41/60v–61r E21/41/61r E21/41/61v E21/41/61v–62r E21/41/62r–62v E21/41/68r E21/41/68r E21/41/69v E21/41/70r E21/41/70v–71r E21/41/79r E21/41/79r

568 544 574 498 603 70, 158, 255, 277, 278 581 111, 611 387, 401, 405 154, 649 577, 580 553 313–4 158, 255, 275, 276 417–8, 444, 450 158, 255, 277 352, 367, 372 521 593–4, 596 105, 387 38, 159, 255, 275, 277 294–6, 308–9, 312, 313 70, 159, 255, 277 147–8, 159, 255, 276, 278 388, 401, 405 636 126, 352, 367, 371, 372 296, 309, 312, 313 160, 255, 276, 277, 278 453 125, 160, 255, 276, 277, 278 582 353, 367, 371, 372 280–1 49, 126, 161, 255, 275, 276 354, 367, 372 377 152, 354, 367, 371, 372 89, 89 n.33, 416, 418–9, 444, 450, 451, 452 485 63, 125, 162, 256, 276, 278 128, 493 354, 368, 372 419, 444, 452 63–4, 126, 128, 142, 281–3 70, 162, 256, 277 318 355, 368, 371 407 107, 454 63, 355, 368, 371 596

VIII.183 VIII.183 VIII.183 VIII.183 VIII.183 VIII.186 VIII.187 VIII.187 VIII.190 VIII.191 VIII.191 VIII.192 VIII.226 VIII.226 VIII.227 VIII.227 VIII.230 VIII.230 VIII.230 VIII.232 VIII.232 VIII.232 VIII.232 VIII.233 VIII.234 VIII.234 VIII.234 VIII.239 VIII.239 VIII.239 VIII.239 VIII.240 VIII.241 VIII.241 VIII.245 VIII.248 VIII.260 VIII.260 VIII.262 VIII.263 VIII.266 VIII.267 VIII.268 VIII.268 VIII.268 VIII.277 VIII.277 VIII.279 VIII.280 VIII.281 VIII.292 VIII.281

7 16

Inde x C

Record Number Page

Paul’s Transcription Manuscript Location (Volume.Page Number)

[87] [88] [89] [90] [91] [92] [93] [94] [95] [96] [97] [98] [99] [100] [101] [102] [103] [104] [105] [106] [107] [108] [109] [110] [111] [112] [113] [114] [115] [116] [117] [118] [119] [120] [121] [122] [123] [124] [125] [126] [127] [128] [129] [130] [131] [132] [133] [134] [135] [136] [137] [138]

E21/41/86v–87r E21/41/87v E21/41/94r E21/41/94v E21/41/101r–101v E21/41/101r E21/41/102r E21/41/102v E21/41/102v E21/41/102v E21/41/106r E21/41/106r–106v E21/41/106r E21/41/107r E21/41/107r E21/41/111r E21/41/112r–112v E21/41/112v E21/41/113r E21/41/113r E21/41/113v E21/41/113v E21/41/117v E21/41/118r E21/41/118v E21/41/122r E21/41/122v E21/41/123r E21/41/123r–123v E21/41/123v E21/41/128v–129v E21/41/129v E21/41/129v–130r E21/41/130r E21/41/130v E21/41/131r E21/41/131r E21/41/131v E21/41/131v E21/41/132r E21/41/136v E21/41/136v–137r E21/41/137r E21/41/137v E21/41/137v E21/41/138r E21/41/138r E21/41/138v E21/41/138v–139r E21/41/139r E21/41/139v E21/41/140r

163, 256, 277, 278 356, 368, 371, 372 163, 256, 276, 277, 278 296, 309, 313 16 n.2, 85, 94, 388, 401–2, 404, 405, 406 43, 297, 309, 312, 313 487 48, 58–9, 356–7, 368, 371, 372 554 125, 163, 256 63, 163, 256, 276 164, 256, 277 85, 388–9, 402, 405, 406 357, 368, 372 389, 402, 405, 406 164 164, 256, 277, 297–8, 309, 312, 313 90, 92, 455 137–8, 565 298 538 597 164, 256, 277, 278 373, 538, 568 542 641 527, 528 529 389–90, 402, 404, 406 357, 368, 372 44, 165–6, 257, 275, 276, 277 298, 309, 312 153 643 407–8 588 641–2 602–3 358, 368, 371 372–3 73, 125, 127, 166, 257, 276, 277, 298–9, 309, 312, 313 166, 257, 278 554 592 529 484 167 358, 368, 371 634 488 584

VIII.302 VIII.303 VIII.311 VIII.311 VIII.318 VIII.319 VIII.320 VIII.320 VIII.321 VIII.321 VIII.325 VIII.325 VIII.325 VIII.326 VIII.325 VIII.332 VIII.333 VIII.334 VIII.334 VIII.335 VIII.335 VIII.335 VIII.340-341 VIII.341 VIII.342 VIII.346 VIII.346 VIII.347 VIII.347 VIII.347 VIII.354 VIII.355 N/A.N/A VIII.355 VIII.356 VIII.356 VIII.356 VIII.357 VIII.357 VIII.357 VIII.363 VIII.364 VIII.364 VIII.364 VIII.365 VIII.365 VIII.366 VIII.366 VIII.366 VIII.367 VIII.367 VIII.368



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[139] [140] [141] [142] [143] [144] [145] [146] [147] [148] [149] [150] [151] [152] [153] [154] [155] [156] [157] [158] [159] [160] [161] [162] [163] [164] [165] [166] [167] [168] [169] [170] [171] [172] [173] [174] [175] [176] [177] [178] [179] [180] [181] [182] [183] [184] [185] [186] [187] [188] [189]

E21/41/141v E21/41/142r E21/41/142r–142v E21/41/143r E21/41/144r E21/41/144r E21/41/144r–144v E21/41/147r–147v E21/41/148r E21/41/148v E21/41/148v E21/41/149r E21/41/151r E21/41/155v E21/41/156r E21/41/156r E21/41/156v E21/41/167v E21/41/167v E21/41/168r E21/41/168r E21/41/168v E21/41/171v E21/41/171v E21/41/171v E21/41/172r E21/41/176r E21/41/177r E21/41/177r E21/41/180v E21/41/181r E21/41/188v E21/41/189r E21/41/189v–190r E21/41/190r E21/41/190r E21/41/190r E21/41/190v, 191r E21/41/191r E21/41/191r E21/41/191r E21/41/191r E21/41/193v E21/41/194v E21/41/194v E21/41/195r E21/41/197v E21/41/197v–198v E21/41/198v E21/41/198v E21/41/199r–199v, 200r–200v

167, 257, 276, 277, 278 414 72, 126, 128, 285–6 551 650 529 286 155, 167–8, 257, 275, 276, 278 413 529 152, 380 571 637 N/A 529 168, 257, 277 126, 359, 369, 371 127, 168, 257, 276, 277 N/A 52, 359, 369, 371, 372 169 169 529 90, 501 380 286 127, 169–70, 258, 276, 277, 278 581 529 646 379 170, 258, 275, 276, 277 35, 299–300, 309–10, 312–3 17 n.7, 360, 369, 371–2 540 90, 413 69–70, 171, 258 374, 549, 571 557 565 559 594 171, 258, 276, 277, 278 538 171 283 150, 171–2, 258, 275, 278 103, 142, 420–1, 444–5, 450, 451, 452 300, 310, 312 172 89 n.33, 142, 421–2, 444–5, 450, 624–5

VIII.370 VIII.370 VIII.371 VIII.372 VIII.364 VIII.373 VIII.373 VIII.376 VIII.377 VIII.378 VIII.378 VIII.378 VIII.381 VIII.386 VIII.387 VIII.387 VIII.387 VIII.399 VIII.399 VIII.399 VIII.400 VIII.400 VIII.405 VIII.405 VIII.405 VIII.405 VIII.410 VIII.411 VIII.411 VIII.416 VIII.416 VIII.426 VIII.426 VIII.427 VIII.427 VIII.427 VIII.427 VIII.428 VIII.429 VIII.429 VIII.429 VIII.429 VIII.432 VIII.433 VIII.433 VIII.434 VIII.436 VIII.436 VIII.438 VIII.438 VIII.438

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[190] [191] [192] [193] [194] [195] [196] [197] [198] [199] [200] [201] [202] [203] [204] [205] [206] [207] [208] [209] [210] [211] [212] [213] [214] [215] [216] [217] [218] [219] [220] [221] [222] [223] [224] [225] [226] [227] [228] [229] [230] [231] [232] [233] [234] [235] [236] [237] [238] [239] [240] [241]

E21/41/199v E21/41/199v E21/41/200r E21/41/200r E21/41/202v–203r E21/41/208r E21/41/208r–208v E21/41/209r E21/41/210r E21/41/210v E21/41/210v E21/41/214v E21/41/215r E21/41/215v E21/41/218v E21/41/218v E21/41/223r E21/41/223v E21/41/223v E21/41/224v E21/41/229r–230r E21/41/230v E21/41/230v–231r E21/41/231r–231v E21/41/231v E21/41/235r E21/41/240r E21/42/36r E21/42/36r E21/42/36r E21/42/36r E21/42/36r E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/36v E21/42/38r E21/42/38r–38v E21/42/39r E21/42/44v E21/42/44v E21/42/45r E21/42/45v E21/42/46r E21/42/46r E21/42/46r E21/42/51r E21/42/51r

530 172 360–1, 369, 371, 372 634 151, 172–3, 258, 275, 276, 277 125, 174, 258–9, 276, 278 300–1, 310, 312, 313 554–5 530 21, 592 488 174–5, 259, 276, 277, 278 530 640 175, 259, 277 41, 175–6, 259, 275, 276, 277 42, 128, 176, 259, 275, 277, 541 n.25 176 530 376 35, 141, 176–8, 259, 275, 276, 277, 278, 541 n.25 413–4 531 643–4 178, 259, 277 521 553 152, 178–9, 259–60, 276, 278 179, 260, 278 179, 260, 275 179, 260, 276, 277, 278 179, 260, 275 45, 48, 49, 179, 255, 275 301, 310, 312 32, 301, 310, 312, 313 302, 310, 313 179 179, 260, 277 179, 260, 275 180, 260, 278 180 52, 56, 361–2, 369, 371, 372 138–40, 594–5 76, 180, 260, 278 180, 260, 275 598 142, 180 484 593 592 422, 445, 450 180, 260, 277, 278

VIII.439 VIII.439 VIII.439 VIII.439 VIII.442 VIII.449 VIII.449 VIII.449 VIII.451 VIII.451 VIII.451 VIII.456 VIII.457 VIII.458 VIII.460 VIII.461 VIII.465 VIII.466 VIII.466 VIII.467 VIII.471 VIII.472 VIII.473 VIII.473 VIII.474 VIII.477 VIII.487 IX.23 IX.23 IX.23 IX.23 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.24 IX.26 IX.26 IX.27 IX.34 IX.34 IX.35 IX.35 IX.36 IX.36 IX.36 IX.42 IX.42



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[242] [243] [244] [245] [246] [247] [248] [249] [250] [251] [252] [253] [254] [255] [256] [257] [258] [259] [260] [261] [262] [263] [264] [265] [266] [267] [268] [269] [270] [271] [272] [273] [274] [275] [276] [277] [278] [279] [280] [281] [282] [283] [284] [285] [286] [287] [288] [289] [290] [291] [292] [293]

E21/42/52r–52v E21/42/52v E21/42/53r E21/42/54r E21/42/54v E21/42/55r E21/42/57r E21/42/57r E21/42/57r E21/42/57r E21/42/57v E21/42/57v E21/42/57v E21/42/57v E21/42/57v–58r E21/42/58r E21/42/58r E21/42/58r E21/42/59r E21/42/59r E21/42/59r–59v E21/42/59v E21/42/59v–60r E21/42/60r E21/42/60r–60v E21/42/60v E21/42/65r E21/42/65v E21/42/65v E21/42/66r E21/42/66r E21/42/66r E21/42/66r E21/42/66r–66v E21/42/66v E21/42/66v E21/42/70r E21/42/70r E21/42/70r–70v E21/42/70v E21/42/70v E21/42/70v E21/42/71r E21/42/71r E21/42/71r E21/42/72r E21/42/72r–72v E21/42/72v–73r E21/42/73r E21/42/73r E21/42/73v E21/42/77r

374 541 137, 583, 584 181 181 149, 181 181, 260, 275 181, 260, 276, 277 423 181 182, 260, 277 29, 31, 302, 310, 312 29, 31, 32, 302, 310, 312 302, 310, 312 303, 310, 312 303, 310, 312 303, 310, 312, 313 303, 310, 312 591 531 506 531–2 646 585, 586 103, 408–9 506 182 507 363, 370, 371 532 410 507 640 501–2 412 412 150, 182, 260, 275 182, 260, 275, 276 304, 310, 312 43, 182–3, 260, 275 183, 260, 275 183, 260, 277 304, 310, 312 314 423, 445, 450 507 551 363–4, 370, 371 500 543 183 101, 183, 260, 275

IX.43 IX.43 IX.44 IX.45 IX.46 IX.47 IX.47 IX.48 N/A.N/A IX.48 IX.48 IX.48 IX.48 IX.48 IX.49 IX.49 IX.49 IX.49 IX.49 IX.50 IX.50 IX.50 IX.50 IX.50 IX.51 IX.51 IX.55 IX.55 IX.56 IX.56 IX.56 IX.56 IX.56 IX.56 IX.57 IX.57 IX.59 IX.59 IX.59 IX.60 IX.60 IX.60 IX.60 IX.60 IX.60 IX.61 IX.61 IX.61 IX.62 IX.62 IX.63 IX.66

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[294] [295] [296] [297] [298] [299] [300] [301] [302] [303] [304] [305] [306] [307] [308] [309] [310] [311] [312] [313] [314] [315] [316] [317] [318] [319] [320] [321] [322] [323] [324] [325] [326] [327] [328] [329] [330] [331] [332] [333] [334] [335] [336] [337] [338] [339] [340] [341] [342] [343] [344] [345]

E21/42/77r E21/42/77r E21/42/77r E21/42/77v E21/42/78r E21/42/78r E21/42/78r E21/42/78v–79r E21/42/81r E21/42/81r E21/42/81r–81v E21/42/81v E21/42/82r E21/42/84r E21/42/84v E21/42/84v E21/42/88r E21/42/88v E21/42/88v E21/42/88v E21/42/92r–92v E21/42/92v E21/42/93r E21/42/93r E21/42/94r E21/42/94v E21/42/95r–95v E21/42/106r E21/42/106v E21/42/106v E21/42/106v E21/42/108r E21/42/109r E21/42/109r–109v E21/42/118r E21/42/118r E21/42/118r E21/42/118r–118v E21/42/127r E21/42/129r E21/42/129r E21/42/129r E21/42/131r E21/42/131v E21/42/135r E21/42/136v E21/42/139r E21/42/139r E21/42/140r E21/42/140v E21/42/140v E21/42/144r–144v

423, 445, 451, 452 184, 261, 277, 278 423, 445, 450, 452 184, 261, 276, 277 491 575 564 364, 370, 371, 372 152, 184, 261, 275, 276, 278 304, 311, 312 184–5, 261, 276, 277 185, 261, 275 134, 134 n.52, 186, 261, 275, 276 486 539 186, 532 149, 186–7, 261, 275, 276, 277, 278 532 365, 370, 372 287 149, 187–8, 261, 275, 276, 278 304–5, 311, 312 149, 188, 261–2, 277, 278, 305, 311, 313 502 149, 188 149, 188 365, 370, 371 125, 126, 127, 148, 189, 262, 276 189, 262, 278 190, 262, 277, 305, 311, 313 305, 311, 313 377 532 365–6, 370, 371 125, 149, 190, 262, 276 190, 262, 278, 542 n.28 190, 262, 278 42, 155, 190–1, 262, 275, 277, 278 148, 191, 542 n.28 191–2, 262, 277, 278 192, 262, 276 192, 262, 276 647 45, 48, 154, 585 76, 125, 192–3, 262, 276, 277, 278 582 193, 262, 275 155, 193, 262–3, 277, 278 193, 542 n.28 578 129, 491 305–6, 311, 312, 313, 314

IX.67 IX.67 IX.67 IX.67 IX.67 IX.67 IX.68 IX.68 IX.70 IX.71 IX.71 IX.72 IX.72 IX.74 IX.74 IX.75 IX.77 IX.78 IX.78 IX.78 IX.81 IX.82 IX.83 IX.83 IX.83 IX.84 IX.84 IX.97 IX.98 IX.98 IX.99 IX.99 IX.101 IX.101 IX.112 IX.112 IX.112 IX.112 IX.123 IX.123 IX.124 IX.124 IX.126 IX.127 IX.132 IX.134 IX.136 IX.137 IX.138 IX.138 IX.138 IX.141



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[346] [347] [348] [349] [350] [351] [352] [353] [354] [355] [356] [357] [358] [359] [360] [361] [362] [363] [364] [365] [366] [367] [368] [369] [370] [371] [372] [373] [374] [375] [376] [377] [378] [379] [380] [381] [382] [383]

E21/42/144v E21/42/145r E21/42/145v–146r E21/42/147r E21/42/149r–149v E21/42/149v E21/42/149v–150r E21/42/151v E21/42/154r E21/42/154r E21/42/154v E21/42/154v E21/42/155r E21/42/155r–155v E21/42/155v E21/42/156r E21/42/156r E21/42/156r–156v E21/42/156v E21/42/156v E21/42/156v–157r E21/42/157r E21/42/157r E21/42/157v E21/42/157v E21/42/160r E21/42/160r E21/42/164r–164v E21/42/167v E21/42/168r E21/42/168r E21/42/173v E21/42/173v E21/42/175r E21/42/175v E21/42/176r E21/42/176r E21/42/182r–182v

IX.142 IX.142 IX.143 IX.144 IX.147 IX.148 IX.148 IX.151 IX.155 IX.156 IX.156 IX.156 IX.157 IX.157 IX.158 IX.158 IX.158 IX.159 IX.159 IX.159 IX.159 IX.159 IX.160 IX.160 IX.160 IX.164 IX.164 IX.170 IX.175 IX.176 IX.176 IX.183 IX.183 IX.185 IX.185 IX.186 IX.186 IX.193

E21/42/183r E21/42/183v E21/42/193r–193v E21/42/193v E21/42/195r E21/42/195r–195v E21/42/195v E21/42/196r–196v E21/42/197r E21/42/199v E21/42/202r–202v E21/42/202v E21/42/203r

IX.195 IX.196 IX.209 IX.210 IX.211 IX.212 IX.212 IX.213 IX.215 IX.218 IX.221 IX.222 IX.223

[384] [385] [386] [387] [388] [389] [390] [391] [392] [393] [394] [395] [396]

194, 263, 275, 277, 278 648 90, 505, 507–8 482 150, 194–5, 263, 275, 276 125, 195–6, 263, 276, 277, 278 423–4, 445, 450, 451, 452 119, 625–6 196, 263, 276, 277, 293, 307, 311, 312, 313 196, 263, 277 293, 307, 311, 312, 313 196, 263, 277, 278 44, 576–7 50, 572 536–7 287 376–7 559–60 569 567 542 502 368, 488–9 140, 532 521 602 533 197–8, 263, 276, 277 533 198, 263, 278, 482 518 315 35, 198, 264, 276, 293, 307–8, 311, 312 101, 366, 370, 371, 372 537 482 366, 371 31, 44, 67, 151, 198–200, 264, 275, 276, 277, 278, 542 n.28 575 644 43, 315–7 109, 200, 264, 277, 456, 456 n.73 644 615–6 87, 90, 94, 103, 107, 626–7 90, 492 67, 200, 264, 277 317, 457 94–5, 103, 116, 416, 424–6, 445–6, 450, 451, 452 200, 264, 275, 277 426, 446, 452

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[397] [398] [399] [400] [401] [402] [403] [404] [405] [406] [407] [408] [409] [410] [411] [412] [413] [414] [415] [416] [417] [418] [419] [420] [421] [422] [423] [424] [425] [426] [427] [428] [429]

E21/42/203r–203v E21/42/205r E21/42/210r E21/42/211r E21/42/211v E21/42/212r E21/42/212r E21/42/212r E21/42/212v E21/42/218v E21/42/218v E21/42/219r E21/42/219r E21/42/219r–219v E21/42/220r E21/42/223v E21/42/223v E21/42/223v E21/42/224v E21/42/224v E21/42/225v E21/42/225v E21/42/230v–231r E21/42/231r E21/42/232r E21/42/233v E21/42/232v E21/42/234r E21/42/234r E21/42/234v E21/42/236r E21/42/238v E21/42/238v–239v

IX.223 IX.226 IX.232 IX.233 IX.233 IX.234 IX.234 IX.234 IX.235 IX.242 IX.242 IX.242 IX.242 IX.243 IX.244 IX.248 IX.249 IX.249 IX.249 IX.249 IX.250 IX.251 IX.257 IX.258 IX.258 IX.260 IX.259 IX.261 IX.262 IX.262 IX.264 IX.267 IX.267

E21/42/240r E21/42/240r E21/42/240r E21/42/242r E21/42/242r E21/42/247v E21/42/247v–248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248r E21/42/248v E21/42/248v E21/42/249v E21/42/249v E21/42/250r

IX.269 IX.269 IX.269 IX.272 IX.272 IX.278 IX.279 IX.279 IX.279 IX.279 IX.279 IX.280 IX.280 IX.280 IX.280 IX.280 IX.280 IX.281

[430] [431] [432] [433] [434] [435] [436] [437] [438] [439] [440] [441] [442] [443] [444] [445] [446] [447]

115, 155, 200–1, 264, 277, 278, 426, 446, 451, 452 409 201, 264, 277 31–2, 601 616 645 622–3 426, 446, 451, 452 618 201, 264, 275 427, 446, 452 201 90, 410 502–3 201, 264, 277 74, 202, 265, 275, 276, 278, 542 n.28 427, 446, 450 202, 265, 277, 278 63, 621–2 592–3 427, 446, 452 143 92, 94, 96, 99, 130, 427–8, 444, 446, 450, 451, 452 149, 203, 265, 276, 277, 278, 542 n.28 618 539 583 153, 317, 349 551 552 428 58–9, 149, 203–4, 265, 276, 277 94, 107, 129, 130, 204, 429–30, 446, 447, 450, 451, 452, 519 n.134 87 n.29, 94, 130, 509, 518 n.134 552 130, 495, 518 130, 518 648 70, 151, 204, 265, 276, 277, 278 87, 89, 91, 430–1, 447, 450, 518 n.134 204, 265, 278 346 431, 447, 451 140, 497 155, 205, 265, 278 89, 129, 431 346 431, 447, 451, 452 542 n.28, 543 432, 447, 450 432



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[448] [449] [450] [451] [452] [453] [454] [455] [456] [457] [458] [459] [460] [461] [462] [463] [464] [465] [466] [467] [468] [469] [470] [471] [472] [473] [474] [475] [476] [477] [478] [479] [480] [481] [482] [483] [484] [485] [486] [487] [488] [489] [490] [491] [492] [493] [494] [495] [496] [497] [498] [499]

E21/42/250v E21/42/256v E21/42/256v E21/42/257r E21/42/257r E21/42/257r E21/42/257r E21/42/258r E21/42/258r–258v E21/42/258v E21/42/258v E21/42/259r E21/42/263v E21/42/263v E21/42/264r E21/42/265r E21/42/265r–265v E21/42/265v–266r E21/42/266r E21/42/267r E21/42/267r E21/42/269v E21/42/271r E21/42/271r–271v E21/42/271v E21/42/271v–272r E21/42/279r–279v E21/42/280v E21/42/280v E21/42/280v E21/42/281r E21/42/281r E21/42/281r E21/42/281v E21/42/285r E21/42/285r–285v E21/42/286v E21/42/286v E21/42/288v E21/42/291r E21/42/292r E21/42/292v E21/42/293r E21/42/293r E21/42/296r E21/42/296r E21/42/296r–296v E21/42/297r E21/42/297r E21/42/297v E21/42/305r–305v E21/42/305r

555 43, 205, 265, 275 205, 265, 277, 432, 447, 452 205, 265, 278 143, 432 318, 337 115, 432, 447, 452 138, 595 90, 103, 618 617 487, 489 66, 346 61, 318–9, 338 205, 265, 277 339 284 32, 35–6, 153, 349–50 598 503 143, 597 595 553 151, 206, 266, 276, 518 34, 153, 206–7, 266, 275, 276, 277 460, 476, 481 149, 151, 207–8, 266, 269, 275, 276 35, 43, 52, 149, 151, 152, 208–10, 275, 276, 277, 278 578 140, 523 589 339 210 615 210, 266, 277, 482 319–20 210–1, 266, 276, 277, 320, 339 131, 641 320 320 211, 266–7, 275, 278 104, 509–10 143, 597 505, 510 503, 505, 510 212, 267, 277 460, 476, 479, 480, 481 151, 152, 212–3, 267, 275, 276, 277, 278, 518 92, 129, 503–4 460, 510 483 45, 49, 73, 125, 151, 152, 213–5, 267, 275, 276, 277, 278 432, 447, 450

IX.282 IX.288 IX.289 IX.289 IX.289 IX.289 IX.289 IX.289 IX.290 IX.290 IX.290 IX.291 IX.297 IX.297 IX.298 IX.298 IX.298 IX.299 IX.300 IX.301 IX.301 IX.304 IX.304 IX.304 IX.305 IX.305 IX.314 IX.315 IX.315 IX.316 IX.316 IX.316 IX.316 IX.317 IX.322 IX.323 IX.324 IX.324 IX.326 IX.328 IX.329 IX.330 IX.331 IX.331 IX.334 IX.334 IX.334 IX.335 N/A.N/A IX.336 IX.343 IX.344

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[500] [501] [502] [503] [504] [505] [506] [507] [508] [509] [510] [511] [512] [513] [514] [515] [516] [517] [518] [519] [520] [521] [522] [523] [524] [525] [526] [527] [528] [529] [530] [531] [532] [533] [534] [535] [536] [537] [538] [539] [540] [541] [542] [543] [544] [545] [546] [547] [548] [549] [550] [551]

E21/42/305v E21/42/306r E21/42/306r E21/42/306v E21/42/307v E21/42/308r E21/42/308r E21/42/311v E21/42/311v–312r E21/42/312r E21/42/312r E21/42/312v E21/42/317r–317v E21/42/317v E21/42/317v E21/42/318r E21/42/318r E21/42/318r E21/42/318r–318v E21/42/318v E21/42/320r E21/42/321r E21/42/321v E21/42/321v E21/42/321v E21/42/322r E21/42/326v E21/42/326v–327r E21/42/327r E21/42/327r E21/42/327r–327v E21/42/330r E21/42/334r–334v E21/42/334r E21/42/334r E21/41/334v E21/42/334v E21/42/335r E21/42/335r–335v E21/42/335v E21/42/336v E21/42/339r E21/42/340r E21/42/340r E21/42/340v E21/42/341r E21/42/341r E21/42/342v E21/42/342v E21/42/342v E21/42/342v E21/42/343r

215 390, 402, 406 215, 267, 276, 277 142, 460, 501, 504, 505, 510 564 648 580 49, 215–6, 267, 275, 278 339 68, 216, 268, 277 38, 217, 267–8, 275, 278 34, 35, 217, 264, 267, 275 43, 57, 150, 151, 152, 217–8, 268, 275, 276, 278 339 218–9, 268, 277, 278 511 522 604 140, 524 340, 524 340 70, 152, 219, 268, 276, 277, 278 619 617 72, 219, 268, 277 586 220, 268, 276, 277 320–1 461, 476, 480 220, 268, 276 495–6 586 390–1, 402, 404–5, 406 68–9, 220, 268, 277 321 220, 268, 275 221, 268, 277, 278 511 635 566 391, 511 391, 402, 406, 505, 511, 221, 268–9, 275, 277, 278 340 340 600 562–3 153, 350 573 534–5 524–5 378

IX.345 IX.345 IX.345 IX.346 N/A.N/A IX.348 IX.348 IX.351 IX.351 IX.351 IX.352 IX.352 IX.358 IX.359 IX.359 IX.359 IX.360 IX.360 IX.360 IX.361 IX.362 IX.363 IX.364 IX.364 IX.364 IX.365 IX.371 IX.371 IX.371 IX.372 IX.371 IX.377 IX.382 IX.383 IX.383 IX.383 IX.383 IX.383 IX.384 IX.384 IX.386 IX.390 IX.390 IX.391 IX.391 IX.391 IX.391 IX.394 IX.394 IX.394 IX.394 IX.395



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E21/42/346r E21/42/346r–346v E21/42/346v E21/42/346v E21/42/346v–347r E21/42/347r E21/42/347r–347v E21/42/348r E21/42/348r–348v E21/42/348v E21/42/348v–349r E21/42/348v E21/42/348v E21/42/349r E21/42/349r E21/42/349r E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/349v E21/42/350r E21/42/350r E21/42/350r E21/42/350v E21/42/350v E21/42/350v E21/42/351r E21/42/351r E21/42/351r E21/42/352r E21/42/352r E21/42/352r E21/42/352v–353r E21/42/353r E21/42/353r E21/42/355r E21/42/355v E21/42/356v E21/42/356v E21/42/357r E21/42/357v E21/42/358v E21/42/363r E21/42/363r E21/42/363r–363v E21/42/363v E21/42/363v E21/42/364v E21/42/365r

222, 268, 269, 275, 276 134, 222–3, 269, 275, 276, 277, 278 223, 269, 275 94, 102, 103, 391–2, 402, 405, 406 43, 73–4, 321–2, 340–1 134, 223, 269, 275, 322, 341 223, 269, 276, 322, 341 558 134, 346 134, 578 563 581 573, 577 134–5, 560, 561, 570, 579 645 606 525 527 563 541 543 527 575 134, 562, 570 522, 535, 539–40, 550, 558, 566, 569 567 292 632 604 322 224, 541 n.25 535, 540, 569 392 134, 590 482 392, 461, 476, 481, 496, 512 599 224, 269, 277 322, 392, 403, 406 149, 224 150, 224, 269, 276 224, 269, 277 149, 573 76, 225, 269, 275 142, 225 155, 225, 269, 278 61, 322–3 225, 269, 276, 277 512 225 512 140, 642

IX.399 IX.399 IX.400 IX.400 IX.400 IX.401 IX.401 IX.402 IX.402 IX.402 IX.402-403 IX.402 IX.402 IX.403 IX.403 IX.403 IX.403 IX.404 IX.404 IX.404 IX.404 IX.404 IX.404 IX.404 IX.405 IX.405 IX.405 IX.405 IX.406 IX.406 IX.406 IX.406 IX.408 IX.408 IX.409 IX.409 IX.410 IX.410 IX.413 IX.414 IX.415 IX.415 IX.416 IX.416 IX.418 IX.424 IX.424 IX.425 IX.425 IX.425 IX.427 IX.427

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E21/42/365r E21/42/365r E21/42/365r E21/42/368r E21/42/369r E21/42/369r E21/42/372r E21/42/376r E21/42/376v E21/43/1r–1v E21/43/1v–2r E21/43/2r E21/43/2v E21/43/2v E21/43/2v–3r E21/43/3r E21/43/3v E21/43/4v E21/43/7r E21/43/7r–7v E21/43/7v E21/43/7v E21/43/7v E21/43/8v–9r E21/43/8r E21/43/9r E21/43/9r E21/43/9v E21/43/11r E21/43/11r E21/43/11r–11v E21/43/11v–12r E21/43/12r E21/43/12r E21/43/12r–12v E21/43/13r–13v E21/43/13v E21/43/13v E21/43/14r E21/43/14r E21/43/14r–14v E21/43/14v–15r E21/43/15r E21/43/15r E21/44/21v–22r E21/44/22r–22v E21/44/22v E21/44/22v–23r E21/44/23r–23v E21/44/23v E21/44/25v E21/44/27v

525 487, 489 490 150, 226, 269, 276, 323 586 552 70 n.103 108, 433, 447, 450, 451, 452 226, 270, 277 89, 91, 92, 102, 105, 392–4, 403, 404, 405, 406 433, 447, 451, 461, 476, 481 42, 43, 226–7, 270, 275 72, 227, 270, 275, 277 151–2, 228, 270, 276 434, 447, 450, 451, 461–2, 477, 479, 481 526 228 N/A 43, 228, 270, 275 229, 270, 276, 277 229, 270, 277 120, 434, 447, 452 150, 229 619 137, 600, 605 555 140, 526–7 487, 490 18 n.14, 230, 270, 276, 278 28, 323, 447 52, 57, 324 100, 434, 448, 450 325 230, 270, 277 105, 512–4 347–8 599 522 142, 483 325, 635 498–9 85, 94, 103, 129, 514–5 230 348 230–1, 270–1, 276, 278 75, 128, 232, 271, 276, 277, 278 341 325–6 462, 477, 480, 481 483 544 341, 463

IX.427 IX.427 IX.428 IX.431 IX.432 IX.432 IX.437 IX.440 IX.440 IX.451 IX.452 IX.452 IX.453 IX.453 IX.454 IX.454 IX.454 IX.456 IX.460 IX.460 IX.461 IX.461 IX.461 IX.462 IX.461 IX.462 IX.463 IX.463 IX.466 IX.466 IX.466 IX.467 IX.467 IX.468 IX.468 IX.469 IX.470 IX.471 IX.471 IX.471 IX.471 IX.472 IX.473 IX.473 X.17 X.18 X.18 X.19 X.19 X.20 X.22 X.25



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E21/44/28r E21/44/29r E21/44/29r–29v E21/44/29v E21/44/29v E21/44/31r E21/44/31v E21/44/32r E21/44/32v E21/44/33r E21/44/35r E21/44/35r–35v E21/44/35v–36v E21/44/37v E21/44/38v E21/44/39r E21/44/39v–40r E21/44/41v–42r E21/44/42r E21/44/42r–42v E21/44/42v–43r E21/44/43r E21/44/43r–43v E21/44/43v E21/44/43v E21/44/44v E21/44/45r E21/44/45r E21/44/45v E21/44/45v E21/44/45v–46r E21/44/46v E21/44/47r–47v E21/44/47v E21/44/48v E21/44/50r E21/44/50r–50v E21/44/50v–51r E21/44/51r E21/44/51v E21/44/52r E21/44/52v E21/44/52v E21/44/55v E21/44/55v–56r E21/44/56r–56v E21/44/59r E21/44/60r–60v E21/44/60v E21/44/60v E21/44/60v–61v E21/44/61v

326 232–3, 271, 275, 278 45, 155, 191 n.90, 233 394, 403, 405, 406, 435, 448, 451, 463, 477, 480, 481 96, 98, 435, 448, 451 288–9 583, 590 600 233 98, 435 45, 48, 326–7 233, 271, 277 89, 119, 120, 463–6, 477, 480, 481 556 379, 589, 617 466, 477, 481, 629–30 327 87, 89, 104, 416, 435–6, 448, 450, 451, 452 394–5, 403, 405, 406 93, 103, 107, 395, 403, 406, 466–7, 477–8, 480, 481 467, 478, 480, 481 70, 234, 271, 276, 277, 395, 483 327 234, 271, 277 87, 437, 448, 451, 468 437 437 437, 448, 452, 619–20 328 587 437, 516 630 545 536, 540 395, 403, 405, 406 103, 396, 403, 404, 405 382, 468, 476, 478, 480 28, 42, 328, 342–3 234, 271, 277 468, 631 396 468, 478, 480, 629 468 396–7, 403, 405 42, 235, 271, 275, 277, 278 140, 545 397 85, 92, 114, 469–70, 478, 480, 481, 630 117 n.147, 470, 478, 480, 481 329 35, 71, 235–7, 271–2, 275, 276, 277, 278 329

X.26 X.27 X.28 X.28 X.29 X.30 X.31 X.32 X.33 X.33 X.36 X.37 X.37 X.40 X.41 X.42 X.43 X.45 X.46 X.46 X.47 X.47 X.48 X.48 X.48 X.50 X.50 X.50 X.51 X.51 X.51 X.52 X.53 X.53 X.55 X.56 X.57 X.57 X.58 X.58 X.59 X.60 X.60 X.64 X.64 X.65 X.69 X.69 X.70 X.71 X.71 X.72

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E21/44/62r E21/44/62r E21/44/62r–62v E21/44/62v E21/44/63r–63v E21/44/63v–64r E21/44/64v E21/44/66r E21/44/67v–68r E21/44/68r E21/44/68r–68v E21/44/68v E21/44/69r E21/44/70r E21/44/70r E21/44/70v E21/44/71r E21/44/73r E21/44/73r–73v E21/44/73v–74r E21/44/74r E21/44/74v E21/44/74r E21/44/74v E21/44/75r E21/44/75r E21/44/78r E21/44/78v–79r E21/44/80r E21/44/80r E21/44/82v E21/44/83r E21/44/83r E21/44/83r E21/44/83v E21/44/86v E21/44/86v–87r E21/44/87r E21/44/87v E21/44/88v E21/44/89v E21/44/90v E21/44/92r–92v E21/44/92v E21/44/93r E21/44/93r E21/44/93v E21/44/93v–94r E21/44/100v E21/44/100v–101v E21/44/101v E21/44/101v

609, 614 486 533 556 115, 128, 493–4 86, 89, 91 n.38, 104, 108, 129, 516–7 546 470 38, 45, 48, 52, 238, 272, 275, 276 151, 239, 272, 275, 278 89, 415 n.35, 437–8, 448, 450, 451 87, 107, 438, 448, 450, 452 63–4, 599 N/A 142, 239 587 239 150, 240, 272, 275 329–30 438, 448, 450, 452 71, 240, 272, 277, 330 291 546 241 566 438 87, 94, 96, 397–8, 403–4, 405, 406 374–5 241 470, 632 330–1 90, 494 378 635 574 241, 272, 276 42, 343 241, 272, 277 140, 497, 627–8 546 142, 241 344 242, 273, 276, 331–2 242, 273, 277, 278 104, 382, 471, 477, 478, 480, 481 242, 273, 278 140, 546–7 647 242–3, 273, 275, 277 89, 103, 141, 439–40, 449, 450, 451, 452 471–2, 478–9, 481 344

X.73 X.73 X.73 X.74 X.75 X.75 X.77 X.78 X.79 X.80 X.81 X.81 X.82 X.83 X.83 X.83 X.84 X.86 X.87 X.87 X.88 X.88 X.88 X.89 X.89 X.89 X.89 X.94 X.96 X.97 X.100 X.100 X.101 X.101 X.101 X.105 X.105 X.106 X.106 X.108 X.109 X.110 X.112 X.113 X.114 X.114 X.114 X.115 X.122 X.123 X.124 X.124



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E21/44/102r E21/44/102v E21/44/103r E21/44/103r–103v E21/44/103v E21/44/103v E21/44/103v E21/44/104r E21/44/106r E21/44/110r E21/45/15r–15v E21/45/15v E21/45/15v–16r E21/45/16r E21/45/16r E21/45/16v E21/45/16v E21/45/16v–17r E21/45/17r E21/45/17r E21/45/17v E21/45/17v E21/45/18r E21/45/24r E21/45/28r–28v E21/45/28v–29r E21/45/29r–29v E21/45/29v E21/45/29v E21/45/30r E21/45/30v E21/45/30v E21/45/31r E21/45/31r E21/45/33r E21/45/33r–33v E21/45/33v E21/45/33v–34r E21/45/34r–34v E21/45/34v E21/45/35v E21/45/36r–36v E21/45/36v E21/45/36v E21/45/37v E21/45/39r E21/45/39r E21/45/39v E21/45/39v–40r E21/45/40r–40v E21/45/40v E21/45/40v–41r

547, 556 587 243, 273, 277 486–7 131, 642 600 605 583, 590 129, 518 567 243–4, 273, 276, 278 472, 479, 480, 631 43, 332 89, 116–7, 136, 440, 449, 450, 451, 452 73–4, 244, 273, 277, 333 487, 491 496 379, 472, 630 633 522, 536, 540 244 582 89, 136, 620 398 101–2, 398–9, 404, 405, 406 103, 111, 115, 399–400, 404, 405–6 472–3, 479, 480, 481 333 473, 479, 480 103, 116, 441, 449, 451, 452 333 473, 631 244 142, 244 245, 273, 275 38, 246, 267, 273, 275 42, 246, 273, 275 52, 67, 247, 273–4, 276, 277 89, 136, 441–2, 449, 450, 451, 452 248, 274, 277, 278 534 45, 140, 547–8 373 248 148, 248 344 334 334 35–6, 248–9, 274, 275, 277 89, 136, 442, 449, 452 138, 599, 643 89, 105, 410–1

X.125 X.125 X.126 X.126 X.127 X.127 X.127 X.127 X.131 X.134 X.139 X.139 X.140 X.140 X.141 X.141 X.141 X.142 X.142 X.142 X.143 X.143 X.143 X.151 X.155 X.156 X.157 X.158 X.158 X.159 X.159 X.159 X.160 X.160 X.162 X.163 X.163 X.164 X.164 X.165 X.166 X.167 X.168 X.168 X.169 X.170 X.171 X.171 X.171 X.172 X.173 X.173

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E21/45/41r E21/45/41r E21/45/45r–45v E21/45/47v E21/45/49v E21/45/49v–50r E21/45/50r E21/45/50v E21/45/53v E21/45/53v–54r E21/45/54r E21/45/54r E21/45/55v E21/45/58r–58v E21/45/58v–59r E21/45/59r–59v E21/45/59v E21/45/59v E21/45/61r E21/45/61r E21/45/61v E21/45/61v E21/45/61v E21/45/62r E21/45/65r E21/45/65v E21/45/65v E21/45/65v E21/45/65v–66r E21/45/66r E21/45/66r E21/45/66v E21/45/67r E21/45/67r E21/45/68r E21/45/68r E21/45/69v E21/45/69v E21/45/70r E21/45/70r E21/45/70v E21/45/78r E21/45/78v

548 103, 136, 620 52, 249, 274, 276, 335, 344–5 141, 250, 335, 345 110, 442, 449–50, 451, 452 87, 108, 474, 479, 480, 481 72, 457 632 336 68–9, 250, 274, 276, 277 110, 401, 404, 405, 406, 443, 450, 452 250, 274, 276 548 251–2, 274, 275, 276 52, 58, 151, 155, 252–3, 274, 275, 276, 277 66, 336–7 89, 443, 450, 452 73, 337 605 557, 588 636 89, 621 549 556 89, 457–8 104, 474–5, 479, 480, 481 107, 443, 450, 451, 452, 458 337 34–5, 253, 275 443, 450, 452, 458 74 n.128, 104, 108, 382, 475–6, 477, 479, 480, 481 103, 458 97, 98, 104, 458–9 150, 254, 273, 275, 276 587 612–3 N/A 569 628 254, 275, 277, 549 254, 275, 277 N/A 568

X.173 X.174 X.178 X.181 X.183 X.183 X.184 X.184 X.187 X.187 X.187 X.188 X.189 X.191 X.192 X.193 X.193 X.193 X.195 X.196 X.196 X.196 X.197 X.197 X.200 X.201 X.201 X.201 X.201 X.201 X.202 X.202 X.203 X.203 X.204 X.204 X.206 X.207 X.207 X.207 X.208 X.215 X.216

he Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland document money spent by the royal treasury and contain numerous references to clothing and textiles. This volume is designed to make the rich material in the Accounts from the regency of the Earl of Arran (whose ward was Mary Queen of Scots) available to those interested in the study of dress and accessories. In addition to overviews of the various types of garments mentioned in the Accounts and discussion of a number of specialty categories, such as wedding and funeral clothing, this book includes the original text of every entry from the Accounts pertaining to secular clothing, with facing translation into modern English.   The Accounts’ entries include information on materials and labour, and describe thousands of items for dozens of people, from court fools to nobles. They are grouped here by recipient, in ‘wardrobe biographies’ which gather all of the entries for a particular person together in chronological order. Through the numerous clothing-related entries from this period it is possible to track the wardrobes of a number of people connected to the Scottish court, the popularity of various garments and accessories, details about their construction, and insights into the relationships of the people involved.

Dressing THE Scottish Court, 1543–1553

T

Dressing

THE Scottish Court, 1543–1553

MELANIE SCHUESSLER BOND is Professor of Costume Design, Eastern Michigan University.

Cover design: riverdesignbooks.com

MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE CLOTHING AND TEXTILES  general editors Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker

Melanie Schuessler Bond

Cover image: George Wishart, by an unknown artist (1543; National Galleries of Scotland, PG 580, bequeathed by Mrs. May, 1898). Reproduced by permission.

Clothing in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland Melanie Schuessler Bond