Hawaii For Dummies [3 ed.] 9780764574023, 9780764583544, 0764574027

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Hawaii FOR

DUMmIES

‰

3RD

EDITION

by Cheryl Farr Leas

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Hawaii FOR

DUMmIES

‰

3RD

EDITION

by Cheryl Farr Leas

Hawaii For Dummies®, 3rd Edition Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, e-mail: [email protected] Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number is available from the publisher. ISBN: 0-7645-7402-7 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 3B/RQ/RS/QU/IN

About the Author Cheryl Farr Leas may live on the mainland, but she’s a Hawaii girl at heart. She fell in love with Diamond Head, aloha wear, and mai tais in 1994 and has had trouble staying away ever since. Whenever she’s not in the islands, she and her husband, Rob, call Phoenix, Arizona home. Before embarking on a writing career, Cheryl served as senior editor at Macmillan Travel (now Wiley) where she edited the Frommer’s Hawaii travel guides for the better part of the 1990s. Now happy to be a globetrotting author and consultant, Cheryl also writes Maui For Dummies.

Dedication This book is for Rob, for loving Hawaii as much as I do.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/. Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Kelly Ewing, Project Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Cartographer: Anton Crane Consumer Editorial Supervisor and Reprint Manager: Carmen Krikorian Editorial Assistant: Melissa S. Bennett Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cover Photos:  SIME s.a.s./eStock Cartoons: Rich Tennant,

Composition Project Coordinator: April Farling Layout and Graphics: Lauren Goddard, Joyce Haughey, Barry Offringa, Lynsey Osborn, Stephanie D. Jumper, Heather Ryan Proofreaders: John Greenough, Leeann Harney, Joe Niesen, TECHBOOKS Production Services Indexer: TECHBOOKS Production Services

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Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Brice Gosnell, Associate Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance Introduction...................................................1 Part I: Introducing Hawaii..............................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Hawaii..............................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Hawaii ..................................19 Chapter 3: Choosing Where to Go ..........................................29 Chapter 4: Deciding When to Go ............................................42

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Hawaii ............55 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ..........................................57 Chapter 6: Getting to Hawaii ..................................................69 Chapter 7: Getting Around Hawaii..........................................78 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ..........................84 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests..........................................................................92 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ............102

Part III: Honolulu and the Rest of Oahu.......111 Chapter 11: Settling into Oahu..............................................113 Chapter 12: Exploring Oahu ..................................................170

Part IV: Maui.............................................215 Chapter 13: Settling into Maui ..............................................217 Chapter 14: Exploring Maui ..................................................273

Part V: Hawaii, the Big Island ....................317 Chapter 15: Settling into the Big Island ..............................319 Chapter 16: Exploring the Big Island....................................364

Part VI: Kauai ...........................................409 Chapter 17: Settling into Kauai ............................................411 Chapter 18: Exploring Kauai..................................................453

Part VII: The Part of Tens ...........................485 Chapter 19: Ten Ways to Lose the Tourist Trappings and Look Like a Local ......................................................487 Chapter 20: Ten Easy Steps to Island Dining ......................495

Appendix: Quick Concierge .........................503 Index.........................................................509

Maps at a Glance The Hawaiian Islands ........................................................................31 Oahu Orientation ..............................................................................114 Honolulu & Waikiki Orientation ......................................................116 TheBus ..............................................................................................118 Waikiki Accommodations ................................................................130 Restaurants In & Around Waikiki ....................................................150 Downtown & Ala Moana Restaurants ............................................154 Beaches & Attractions Around Oahu ............................................172 Honolulu’s Beaches & Attractions..................................................174 Maui Orientation ..............................................................................218 From Kahului to Haleakala ..............................................................226 Maui’s Accommodations..................................................................230 Lahaina & Kaanapali Accommodations ........................................232 Kapalua, Napili, & Kahana Accommodations & Dining................235 South Maui Accommodations & Dining ........................................236 Maui’s Restaurants ..........................................................................252 Lahaina Restaurants ........................................................................255 Maui’s Best Beaches & Attractions ................................................274 Haleakala National Park ..................................................................292 The Heavenly Road to Hana ............................................................298 Hana....................................................................................................303 Big Island Orientation ......................................................................322 The Big Island’s Accommodations ................................................330 Kona Coast Accommodations ........................................................333 The Kohala Coast..............................................................................335 The Big Island’s Restaurants ..........................................................346 The Big Island’s Best Beaches & Attractions ................................366 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park ....................................................385 Kailua-Kona Town ............................................................................390 Waimea (Kamuela)............................................................................395 Hilo ....................................................................................................398 Kauai Orientation..............................................................................412 Kauai’s Accommodations ................................................................420 Kauai’s Restaurants ..........................................................................434 Kauai’s Beaches & Attractions ........................................................454

Table of Contents Introduction..................................................1 About This Book...............................................................1 Conventions Used in This Book .....................................2 Foolish Assumptions .......................................................3 How This Book Is Organized...........................................3 Part I: Introducing Hawaii .....................................3 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Hawaii ...................4 Parts III through VI: Being There — The Islands..........................................................4 Part VII: The Part of Tens......................................4 Icons Used in This Book ..................................................5 Where to Go from Here....................................................5

Part I: Introducing Hawaii .............................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Hawaii .............9 The Best of the Best Luxury Resorts...........................10 The Best of the Best Accommodations Values...........11 The Best of the Best Restaurants.................................12 The Best of the Best Beaches .......................................13 The Best of the Best Activities and Attractions .........15 The Best of the Best Luaus ...........................................17

Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Hawaii .................19 History 101: The Main Events.......................................19 A.D. 700: The first Hawaiians arrive...................20 1778: The “modern” world arrives.....................20 1893: Paving the way for tourism and statehood...................................................21 1959: Setting the stage for today’s Hawaii ........21 Building Blocks: Local Architecture and Design ........22 A Taste of Hawaii: Local Cuisine...................................24 A Word to the Wise: The Local Lingo...........................25 Say what? How to pronounce Hawaiian words ................................................25 Background Check: Recommended Books and Movies ..................................................................26 Books .....................................................................26 Movies ...................................................................28

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Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition

Chapter 3: Choosing Where to Go ...........................29 Introducing the Hawaiian Islands.................................29 The Gathering Place: Oahu .................................30 The Valley Isle: Maui ............................................33 The Big Island: Hawaii .........................................35 The Garden Isle: Kauai ........................................37 The most Hawaiian isle: Molokai .......................38 The private island: Lanai.....................................39 Visiting More than One Island ......................................40

Chapter 4: Deciding When to Go .............................42 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ............................42 Understanding Hawaii’s climate.........................43 Charting sea changes ..........................................44 Avoiding the crowds............................................45 Perusing a Calendar of Events......................................45

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Hawaii............55 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ...........................57 Planning Your Budget ....................................................57 Transportation .....................................................57 Lodging..................................................................59 Dining.....................................................................59 Sightseeing and activities ...................................60 Shopping and nightlife ........................................60 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .................................61 Getting the best airfares......................................61 Avoiding paying full price for your hotel room.........................................................62 Cutting other costs ..............................................63 Handling Money..............................................................66 Using ATMs and carrying cash...........................66 Charging ahead with credit cards......................66 Toting traveler’s checks ......................................67 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ...................67

Chapter 6: Getting to Hawaii ....................................69 Flying to Hawaii ..............................................................69 Getting the best airfare .......................................70 Joining an Escorted Tour ..............................................73 Choosing a Pay-One-Price Package..............................74 Finding a package tour ........................................74 Uncovering an airline package ...........................76 Weighing your options ........................................76

Table of Contents

xiii

Chapter 7: Getting Around Hawaii ..........................78 Flying between the Hawaiian Islands...........................78 Arranging for Rental Cars..............................................79 Getting the best deal ...........................................80 Hawaii how-to: Renting convertibles.................82 Following the rules of the road ..........................83

Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ...........84 Getting to Know Your Options......................................84 Relaxing at a resort..............................................85 Hanging at a hotel ................................................86 Enjoying the comforts of a B&B .........................86 Rooming in a vacation rental..............................87 Finding the Best Room Rate..........................................88 Surfing the Web for Hotel Deals....................................90 Reserving the Best Room ..............................................91

Chapter 9: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests ...............................................................92 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ...........92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors.................94 Accessing Hawaii: Advice for Travelers with Disabilities ..........................................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gay and Lesbian Travelers..................................97 Planning a Hawaiian Wedding.......................................98 Using a wedding planner or coordinator ..........98 Do-it-yourself planning ........................................99

Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details.................................................102 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ...................................................................102 Staying Healthy When You Travel ..............................104 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail...............105 Keeping Up with Airline Security Measures .............107 Making Reservations before You Leave Home .........108

Part III: Honolulu and the Rest of Oahu ......111 Chapter 11: Settling into Oahu ...............................113 Arriving at Honolulu International Airport ...............113 Getting from the Airport to Your Hotel .....................115 Driving yourself..................................................115 Taking a taxi........................................................115 Catching a shuttle ride ......................................115

xiv

Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition Choosing Your Location ..............................................120 Mid-Waikiki..........................................................120 Ewa Waikiki .........................................................121 Diamond Head Waikiki.......................................121 Beyond Waikiki: Kahala .....................................121 Farther afield: The Ko Olina Resort.................121 Getting Around Oahu...................................................122 Navigating your way around Honolulu............122 Exploring the rest of Oahu................................123 Letting somebody else do the driving.............125 Staying in Style .............................................................128 Oahu’s best accommodations ..........................129 Arranging for a rental ........................................147 Dining Out .....................................................................148 Luau!...............................................................................167 Fast Facts: Oahu ...........................................................168

Chapter 12: Exploring Oahu ....................................170 Enjoying the Sand and Surf .........................................170 Combing the Beaches ..................................................170 The Waikiki Coast and East Oahu ....................171 Along the Windward Coast ...............................178 On the North Shore............................................180 On the remote leeward coast ...........................182 Playing in the Surf ........................................................182 Snorkeling offshore............................................183 All hands on deck: Ocean-cruising adventures ......................................................184 “Chumming” around with sharks.....................186 Delving into the deep: Submarine rides..........187 Catching a wave .................................................187 Scuba diving .......................................................189 Sportfishing ........................................................190 Exploring on Dry Land.................................................190 Taking a guided tour..........................................190 Visiting Honolulu’s top attractions..................192 In Pearl Harbor ...................................................198 In nearby East Oahu ..........................................200 Exploring the rest of the island ........................201 Hitting the links ..................................................203 Shopping the Local Stores ..........................................206 Shopping malls ...................................................206 Other shopping of note .....................................209

Table of Contents Living It Up after Dark..................................................210 The really big shows..........................................210 Cocktails, music, and dancing..........................212 Sailing into the sunset .......................................213

Part IV: Maui............................................215 Chapter 13: Settling into Maui ...............................217 Arriving at Kahului Airport .........................................217 Getting from the Airport to Your Hotel .....................220 Driving yourself..................................................220 Taking a taxi........................................................221 Catching a shuttle ride ......................................221 Choosing Your Location ..............................................221 West Maui............................................................221 South Maui ..........................................................223 Hana.....................................................................223 Getting Around Maui....................................................224 Navigating your rental car around the Valley Isle..................................................224 Getting around without wheels........................227 Staying in Style .............................................................228 Maui’s best accommodations...........................229 Home sweet vacation condo ............................248 Dining Out .....................................................................250 Luau!...............................................................................268 Fast Facts: Maui ............................................................270

Chapter 14: Exploring Maui ....................................273 Enjoying the Sand and Surf .........................................273 Combing the beaches ........................................273 Playing in the surf ..............................................279 Scuba diving .......................................................286 Sportfishing ........................................................287 Exploring on Dry Land.................................................287 Taking a guided van or bus tour ......................288 Enjoying guided nature hikes ...........................289 Getting a bird’s-eye view ...................................290 Visiting Haleakala National Park ......................291 Driving the Heavenly Road to Hana.................297 More attractions worth seeking out ................306 Hitting the links ..................................................308

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Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition Shopping the Local Stores ..........................................310 Central Maui: Wailuku........................................310 West Maui: Lahaina and Kaanapali ..................311 South Maui: Wailea.............................................313 Off the beaten path: Paia and Makawao..........313 Living It Up after Dark..................................................314 West Maui............................................................314 South Maui ..........................................................316 Upcountry Maui .................................................316

Part V: Hawaii, the Big Island ...................317 Chapter 15: Settling into the Big Island................319 Arriving on the West Side at Kona Airport................320 Arriving on the East Side at Hilo Airport ..................321 Choosing Your Location ..............................................321 On the west (Kona) side....................................324 The east (volcano) side.....................................325 Driving Around the Big Island ....................................326 Staying in Style .............................................................328 Home, sweet vacation home.............................344 Dining Out .....................................................................345 Luau!...............................................................................361 Fast Facts: Big Island ...................................................362

Chapter 16: Exploring the Big Island ....................364 Enjoying the Sand and Surf .........................................364 Combing the beaches ........................................365 Enjoying the Sand and Surf .........................................371 Snorkeling ...........................................................371 On-deck adventures — ocean cruising ...........372 Scuba diving .......................................................375 Freshwater fluming ............................................377 Hooking the big one...........................................377 Exploring Dry Land ......................................................379 Sightseeing with a guide....................................379 Enjoying guide-led nature tours .......................380 Getting a bird’s-eye view — flightseeing tours ...........................................382 Seeing Hawaii Volcanoes National Park ..........383 More attractions worth seeking out ................389 Hitting the links ..................................................400 Shopping the local stores .................................402 Living It Up after Dark..................................................405

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Part VI: Kauai...........................................409 Chapter 17: Settling into Kauai ..............................411 Arriving at Lihue Airport.............................................411 Getting from the Airport to Your Hotel .....................411 Choosing Your Location ..............................................414 The Coconut Coast ............................................414 The North Shore.................................................415 The South Shore: Poipu Beach.........................415 Farther afield: Kalaheo and Waimea................416 Getting Around Kauai ..................................................416 Staying In Style .............................................................418 Kauai’s best accommodations .........................418 More B&Bs worth writing home about ...........430 Home, sweet vacation home.............................431 Dining Out .....................................................................433 Luau!...............................................................................449 Fast Facts: Kauai...........................................................451

Chapter 18: Exploring Kauai ...................................453 Enjoying the Sand and Surf .........................................453 Combing the beaches ........................................453 Playing in the surf ..............................................461 Snorkeling ...........................................................462 Cruising the Na Pali Coast and other on-deck adventures........................................463 Ocean and river kayaking .................................464 Catching a wave .................................................465 Hooking the big one...........................................466 For scuba divers (and those who want to be) ......................................................466 Exploring on Dry Land.................................................467 Sightseeing with a guide....................................467 Taking a flightseeing tour..................................468 Exploring Kauai’s top attractions ....................470 Hitting the links ..................................................476 Horseback riding................................................478 Getting pampered at the spa ............................478 Shopping the Local Stores ..........................................479 Living It Up after Dark..................................................482

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Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition

Part VII: The Part of Tens...........................485 Chapter 19: Ten Ways to Lose the Tourist Trappings and Look Like a Local........................487 Mastering the Two Most Important Words in the Hawaiian Language........................................488 Adding a Few More Hawaiian Words and Phrases...............................................................488 Pronouncing Those Pesky Hawaiian Words and Place Names ......................................................489 Knowing How to Give and Take Directions...............491 Remembering that You’re in the United States ........491 Wearing Sunscreen.......................................................492 Dressing the Part..........................................................493 Remembering Your Island-Style Manners .................493 Leaving Your Laptop at Home and Turning Off Your Cellphone ....................................494 Smiling a Lot and Saying “Aloha” to Strangers.........494

Chapter 20: Ten Easy Steps to Island Dining .......495 Fresh-Caught and Island-Raised .................................495 Traditional Island Eats.................................................496 The Gourmet Side of the Island Stove .......................496 A Translation List for Seafood Lovers .......................497 More Everyday Hawaiian Food Terms.......................498 Other Local Favorites ..................................................499 Ethnic Eats ....................................................................499 The Joys and Sorrows of the Supermarket ...............499 Another Island Tradition: Tropical Cocktails ...........500 What to Expect at a Luau ............................................501

Appendix: Quick Concierge.........................503 Index........................................................509

Introduction

I

’m here to spread the good news: Hawaii really lives up to its heady promise. These islands of aloha offer all the ingredients of a carefree beach vacation. (Aloha is an all-purpose greeting meaning hello, welcome, or goodbye, but its meaning runs much deeper. Aloha is the Hawaiian concept of unconditional love.) One of Hawaii’s most magical and winning qualities is its ability to fulfill everyone’s own island dream — whether you’re 6 or 60, single or the head of a growing family, the Survivor type or a newly minted millionaire living the luxe life. Enjoyment is just a matter of knowing what you want from your island vacation — and how to make it happen. Planning a Hawaii vacation is easy — too easy, in fact. Far too many people head off to Hawaii blindly without exerting the little bit of effort that it takes to tailor a mass-market vacation to their own needs, tastes, and desires. So just knowing that you want to look before you leap puts you well ahead of the pack. And picking up this guidebook shows that you have the right instincts about your vacation planning.

About This Book Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition, cuts the wheat from the chaff — or the husk from the pineapple, as it were. An island vacation, after all, is supposed to be easy and fun, and planning your trip to should be easy and fun, too. I’ve done the legwork for you, and I want you to benefit accordingly. I’m not afraid to take a stand to help you decide what to include in your island vacation — and, even more important, what not to include. I understand that you work hard to set aside a few precious weeks of vacation time, and that money doesn’t grow on trees — no matter how much you have, you don’t want to waste it. After all, the time to figure out this stuff is now, in the planning stage, not when you get to Hawaii. No one right answer exists for everyone, of course — that’s why you’re here. This book gives you the tools you need — just what you need, not too much — so that you can make smart decisions about what works for you and what doesn’t. I’ve tried to give you the clearest picture of your options so that you can make informed decisions easily and efficiently. Because this book is a reference guide, you can start reading at any point and concentrate on finding out exactly what you want to know at any given time.

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Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition

Dummies Post-it Flags 

As you’re reading this book, you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip –– whether it be a new hotel, a must-see attraction, or a musttry walking tour. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it Flags included in this book to help make your trip planning easier!

Building your Hawaii vacation is like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. This book helps you assemble the right puzzle pieces so that they interlock smoothly, and the finished product reflects the picture you want, not somebody else’s image of what your island paradise should be.

Conventions Used in This Book The structure of this book is nonlinear: You can dig in anywhere to get information on a specific issue without any hassles. Hotels and restaurants are listed alphabetically with actual prices and frank evaluations. In this book, I include lists of hotels, restaurants, and attractions. As I describe each one, I often include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each card: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I include some general pricing information to help you as you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. I use a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for one night in a double room in each hotel or a typical meal at a restaurant (included in the cost of each meal is an appetizer, main course, dessert, one drink, tax, and tip — per person). Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Introduction Cost

$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotel Less than $100 $100–$175 $175–$250 $250–$375 More than $375

3

Restaurant Less than $15 $15–$25 $25–$40 $40–$70 More than $70

Foolish Assumptions As I wrote this book, I made some assumptions about you and your needs as a traveler: ⻬ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Hawaii and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy some time in the sun. ⻬ You may be an inexperienced traveler looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Hawaii and how to plan for it. ⻬ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about the Hawaiian islands or that lists every hotel, restaurant, or attraction available to you. Instead, you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that offer the best or most unique experiences in Hawaii. If you fit any of these criteria, then Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition, gives you the information you’re looking for!

How This Book Is Organized Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition, contains seven parts. You can read each chapter or part without reading the one that came before it — no need to study up on Oahu or Kauai if you’re only heading to Maui and the Big Island, for example — but, as you read, I may refer you to other chapters of the book for more information on certain subjects.

Part I: Introducing Hawaii This first part gives you an overview of what Hawaii is like, so you can start getting excited about all the fun that lies ahead. It includes ⻬ An easy-to-scan list of the very best of the best — my personal picks of Hawaii’s top hotels, restaurants, beaches, golf courses, and more ⻬ A quick overview of Hawaiian history and culture

4

Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition ⻬ An introduction to each of the Hawaiian islands, plus a fun quiz that helps you decide which islands suit your fancy and which ones you’d rather leave for the next trip ⻬ Time-tested advice on how to divide your time between the islands you want to visit ⻬ The scoop on when to go

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Hawaii In this part, I get down to the serious trip preparation, including ⻬ How much you can expect your trip to cost and how to save on costs if money is a concern ⻬ The pros and cons of planning your trip on your own, using a travel agent, and buying an all-inclusive package deal ⻬ The ins and outs of flying to Hawaii, and how to travel between the islands after you’re there ⻬ Special considerations for families, seniors, travelers with disabilities, and gay and lesbian travelers ⻬ A how-to guide for couples who want to tie the knot in the Aloha State

Parts III through VI: Being There — The Islands These parts form the bulk of the book and cover the destinations that you may visit in hands-on detail. Each part is dedicated to one of the major Hawaiian islands — Oahu (Part III), Maui (Part IV), the Big Island (Part V), and Kauai (Part VI)— and offers all the specific details and recommendations you need while you’re there, including ⻬ Settling in ⻬ Staying in style ⻬ Dining out ⻬ Enjoying the island

Part VII: The Part of Tens Every For Dummies book has a Part of Tens. If Parts III through VI are the main course of a travel meal, think of these fun top-ten-list chapters as dessert. Chapter 19 tells you how to ditch the tourist look and act like a local, with tips on everything from how to pronounce those tongue-twisting Hawaiian place names to getting to know a few points of island-style etiquette. Chapter 20 focuses on one of everybody’s favorite topics — food! Use it to familiarize yourself with common island food terms and local dishes, so that after you arrive, you’ll know whether you want the saimin, the poke, or the opakapaka — and whether you want to save room for a little haupia for dessert.

Introduction

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In back of this book, I include an appendix — your Quick Concierge — containing lots of handy information you may need when traveling in Hawaii, like phone numbers and addresses of emergency personnel or area hospitals and pharmacies, lists of local newspapers and magazines, protocol for sending mail or finding taxis, and more. Check out this appendix when searching for answers to lots of little questions that may come up as you travel. You can find the Quick Concierge easily because it’s printed on yellow paper.

Icons Used in This Book Think of the following icons as signposts. I use them to highlight especially useful advice, to draw your attention to things that you won’t want to miss, and to introduce a variety of topics. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels, restaurants, attractions, activities, shopping, and nightlife. Keep an eye out for the Bargain Alert icon as you seek out money-saving tips and/or great deals. Watch for the Heads Up icon to identify annoying or potentially dangerous situations such as tourist traps, unsafe neighborhoods, budgetary rip-offs, and other things to beware. Find out useful advice on things to do and ways to schedule your time when you see the Tip icon. Look to the Kid Friendly icon for attractions, hotels, restaurants, and activities that are particularly hospitable to children or people traveling with kids. The Local Know How icon indicates well-guarded kamaaina (local) advice that I let out of the bag, so that you can have the edge over Malihini (newcomers) who don’t know better.

Where to Go from Here As you read through this book and start to formulate your vacation, remember this: The planning really is half the fun. Don’t think of choosing your island destinations and solidifying the details as a chore. Make the homebound part of the process a voyage of discovery, and you’ll end up with an experience that’s that much more rewarding, enriching, and relaxing — really. Have a blast with it. Happy planning!

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Hawaii For Dummies, 3rd Edition

Part I

Introducing Hawaii

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In this part . . .

his part of the book introduces you to the wonders of Hawaii. You discover why so many people are drawn to these islands of aloha, and you begin to shape the basic outlines of your trip. I preview each island one by one and offer tips of planning an itinerary. Then I help you figure out when to go, with information on Hawaii’s climate, the least crowded (and expensive) seasons, and a full calendar of special events.

Chapter 1

Discovering the Best of Hawaii In This Chapter 䊳 Scoping out Hawaii’s top accommodations 䊳 Uncovering the top dining establishments and luaus 䊳 Exploring the best beaches and attractions

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he most marvelous thing about Hawaii is that every day is a slice of paradise. Hawaii is such a breathtakingly beautiful place and exudes such a generous spirit of genuine aloha, that just about every island experience offers something special. It doesn’t take a lot of cash or elaborate planning to get to the heart of Hawaii. Hawaii is at its best when you experience its simple pleasures in their purest form. Here, everybody can feel like royalty: A simple beach apartment can be your castle, a fresh papaya and a cup of robust Kona joe can be your princely breakfast, and a joyous aloha shirt can be your royal robe. But if you’re looking for more worldly luxuries, that’s great, too — because vacation is about having what you want. These islands don’t lack the kind of pamper-yourself experiences; you’ll run out of time before you exhaust your cash supply. Whether you prefer the simple pleasures of life or are in the market for island luxury at its finest, you’ll find it in Hawaii. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the Best of the Best — that Hawaii has to offer. I discuss each of these places and experiences in detail later in this book; you can find them in their indicated chapter, marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon.

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Part I: Introducing Hawaii

The Best of the Best Luxury Resorts In the market for a little luxury — or a lot of it? Hawaii’s your place. These islands are home to some of the world’s finest resorts. The following are the best of the best: ⻬ Halekulani (Oahu): The finest hotel on Waikiki Beach is the epitome of graciousness and elegant aloha. The white-on-white rooms are gorgeous, the service is impeccable, SpaHalekulani is a pampering oasis, and the restaurants are the best on the beach. Ask for a room with a Diamond Head view, and the world is yours. See Chapter 11. ⻬ Grand Wailea Resort & Spa (Maui): Many tout the reserved understatement of the neighboring Four Seasons, but I’m underwhelmed. Instead, I prefer this grand beach palace, with its exclusive tropical theme park vibe, big and beautiful guest rooms, and over-the-top treat at every turn. Hawaii’s best pool complex awaits your (very lucky) kids, and you can indulge in the island’sfinest spa. The luxurious Napua Tower offers such extra amenities as personalized concierge service. See Chapter 13. ⻬ Hotel Hana-Maui (Maui): Rejoice — for the Hotel Hana-Maui is glorious once again. After years in the doldrums, this breathtaking resort at the end of the “heavenly” Hana Highway has been reborn as a luxurious haven of genuine Hawaiiana thanks to the folks behind Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn. This elegant hideaway is reason enough alone to cruise to the remotest end of the island. See Chapter 13. ⻬ Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island): You’ll want for nothing at this elegantly understated resort, Hawaii’s best. Ask for a room with an open-air lava-rock shower for the ultimate in natural-style luxury. A stunning oceanfront pool with a graceful wooden deck stands center stage, while a second comes stocked with friendly stingrays. Service is impeccable, the restaurants are among the island’s finest, and the superb Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course is for guests only. See Chapter 15. ⻬ Kona Village Resort (Big Island): Hawaii’s only all-inclusive resort is the polar opposite of its sophisticated neighbor, the Four Seasons Hualalai (see preceding entry). Whereas that resort offers every cutting-edge luxury, this South Seas paradise of tropical cottages offers something else really special: blissful escape, Gilligan’s Island style, where your “Do Not Disturb” sign is painted on a coconut and in-room entertainment is your glorious ocean view. However long you plan to stay, stay longer — it still won’t be long enough. See Chapter 15. ⻬ Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai): From start to finish, this crown-jewel Hyatt is one of Hawaii’s most satisfying resorts. Situated on Kauai’s sunny south coast, the resort boasts a genuine tropical vibe with big, beautiful rooms; a terrific pool complex that

Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Hawaii

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pleases both kids and adults alike; a brilliant spa with open-air treatment rooms; and service that exudes the most genuine aloha. I’d move in if I could afford it. See Chapter 17. ⻬ Princeville Resort Kauai (Kauai): If it weren’t for the fact that guest rooms lack open-air lanais, this stunning North Shore resort would be perfect; as it is, it comes very close. Situated on the Garden Isle’s most breathtaking coast, the resort offers spectacular views in every direction, while just out the back door is one of the island’s finest beaches for snorkeling and sunbathing. The views alone are reason to come — but you won’t be disappointed with elegant appointments and attentive service, either. See Chapter 17.

The Best of the Best Accommodations Values Don’t have limitless cash? No worries. Get the most for your accommodations dollar by booking into one of these fine establishments: ⻬ Waikiki Beach Marriott (Oahu): This freshly renovated hotel sits just across the street from Waikiki’s best stretch of sand. Its attractive style and full-service amenities — including Spa Olakino, one of Hawaii’s finest relaxation palaces — make it feel like a much more expensive hotel. Yet rates are lower than you’d expect, quickly shaping this hotel into one of Hawaii’s consistently best-value hotels. See Chapter 11. ⻬ Waikiki Beachcomber (Oahu): Looking for Waikiki’s best accommodations bargain? This attractive and well-located hotel — just 297 steps from the beach! — is usually it. What the Beachcomber lacks in cutting-edge style, it more than makes up for with first-rate packages and a wealth of online discounts for travelers of every stripe. See Chapter 11. ⻬ Fairmont Kea Lani (Maui): Sure, this fanciful Moorish palace on the sand is pricey, but it gives you so much more for your money than Maui’s other luxury resorts. For the same price as a standard hotel room at other places — and sometimes less — here you’ll enjoy a large one-bedroom suite with a complete entertainment system (including stereo and DVD) and a huge marble bathroom. See Chapter 13. ⻬ Kaanapali Beach Hotel (Maui): This charming, older beachfront hotel is the last hotel left in Hawaii that gives you a real resort experience at a moderate price. The resort brims with genuine aloha spirit and good value — and the on-the-beach location can’t be beat. See Chapter 13. ⻬ Noelani Condominium Resort (Maui): This top-notch oceanfront condo complex is both an excellent value and a really enjoyable place to stay. Every unit — from the value-minded studios for two to the family-friendly two- and three-bedroom apartments — boasts an ocean view and all the comforts of home. See Chapter 13.

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Part I: Introducing Hawaii ⻬ Waikoloa Beach Marriott, an Outrigger Resort (Big Island): Want a beachfront resort with all the perks, but without the hefty price tag? Try this pleasing — and pleasantly affordable — resort, situated on one of the sunny Kohala coast’s finest beaches. A prime location, a genuine tropical feel, and activities galore, all for a fraction of its ritzier neighbors. See Chapter 15. ⻬ Kona Billfisher (Big Island): Some say you have to have a bundle to benefit from a Hawaii vacation, but the Kona Billfisher begs to disagree. This simple, straightforward condo complex is the place to stay on the Big Island if you want a good, clean apartment with all the comforts of home for less than $100 a night. Bring the kids, too — even two-bedroom units are a bargain. See Chapter 15. ⻬ Nihi Kai Villas and Waikomo Stream Villas (Kauai): These wonderful condo complexes on Kauai’s sunny south shore, both managed by Grantham Resorts, offer the best accommodations values on the Garden Isle. Waikomo Stream’s one- and two-bedroom apartments are ideal for families who want all the comforts of home at bargainbasement prices. Nihi Kai’s one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments are closer to the beach and a bit more upscale, but offer equally good value. See Chapter 17.

The Best of the Best Restaurants Attention, foodies: You’ll have no trouble dining well in Hawaii. Whether you’re looking to celebrate a special occasion or mapping out a culinary calendar for the length of your stay, don’t overlook these fabulous restaurants: ⻬ Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu): If there is one master of Hawaii Regional cuisine above all others, it is Alan Wong. His warmly contemporary and tropical Honolulu dining room is the ideal showcase for his fine-dining twists on the local culinary tradition. Don’t miss this dining experience. See Chapter 11. ⻬ Chef Mavro (Oahu): While Alan Wong stays true to his island ingredients, James Beard award-winning chef George Mavrothalassitis brings the flavors of his native Provence to Hawaii’s table. Every dish dazzles, and the dining room is a paragon of elegant simplicity. Alan Wong’s may be the best choice if you have only one fine-dining night and want maximum local style, but Chef Mavro