Das Königliche münzkabinet: Geschichte und übersicht der sammlung nebst enklärgender beschreibung der auf schautischen ausgelegten auswahl 3112333412, 2412262712, 4824501252

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IBI DRESS

DESCRIPTION

Romantic maxi dress with gathered tiers and loose shape. Raglan sleeves and inseam pockets. Asymmetric hem slighlty shorter on the front. View a: waistline and short sleeves adjusted by ties. Buttons on the back. View b: crossed straps, lined bodice. View c: shirt collar, hidden button placket and long sleeves with cuffs. View d: wrap dress. Gathered sleeves and midi length. View e: long bodice with button placket on the back. Ruched sleeves. View f: V opening with faux wrap, full 3/4 length sleeves.

FABRIC

Light to medium weight woven fabrics such as cotton poplin, linen, corduroy, chambray, twill, swiss dot...

FABRIC REQUIREMENT & NOTIONS view a view b

view c Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 5 m (5 yd 1 ft) Interfacing ( 75 / 291/2”): 0,40 m (1,5 ft) 7 buttons (1,5 cm / 5/8”” ø)

Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 3,40 m (3 yd 2 ft) Lining (110/150 / 45”/60”): 0,55 m (2 ft)

Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 4,80 m (5 yd) 4 buttons (1,5 cm / 5/8”” ø)

view d

view e

view f

Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 3,60 m (3 yd 3 ft) 1 button (1 cm / 3/8”” ø)

Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 3,15 m (3 yd 1 ft) 3 buttons (1,5 cm / 5/8”” ø)

Main fabric (150 cm / 60”): 3,90 m (4 yd 1 ft)

BODY MEASUREMENTS (cm inches)

IBI

Size

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

Bust

80 311/2

84 33

88 341/2

92 36

96 38

100 39

104 41

108 421/2

114 45

120 471/4

Waist

62 241/2

66 26

70 271/2

74 29

78 31

82 32

86 34

90 351/2

96 38

102 40

Hips

86 34

90 351/2

94 37

98 381/2

102 40

106 42

110 43

114 45

120 471/4

126 491/2

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (cm inches) Sizes 34 - 52 Instructions in English.

Difficulty

Bust

93 361/2

97 38

101 393/4

105 411/4

109 43

113 441/2

117 46

121 473/4

127 50

133 521/2

Hips (view e)

104 41

108 421/2

112 44

116 453/4

120 471/4

124 483/4

128 501/2

132 52

138 541/2

144 563/4

IBI DRESS instructions in English

11

12 13

PATTERN PIECES

1

14

40

8

8 POCKET 11 FRONT BODICE 12 BACK BODICE 13 STRAP 1

2 3

40

14 STRAP 2 40 SKIRT TIER 1 40 SKIRT TIER 2

4

9 5

10

6 8 7

17

40 15

1 FRONT BODICE 2 BACK BODICE 3 FRONT SLEEVE 4 BACK SLEEVE 5 TOP TIER SKIRT 6 FRONT FACING 7 BACK FACING

16

8 POCKET 9 SLEEVE TIE 10 WAIST TIE 40 SKIRT TIER 1

18

8 21

19

8 POCKET 15 FRONT BODICE 16 BACK BODICE 17 COLLAR STAND 18 COLLAR

20

40

19 FRONT SLEEVE 20 BACK SLEEVE 21 CUFF 40 SKIRT TIER 1

6 FRONT FACING 30 FRONT BODICE 31 BACK BODICE 32 FRONT SLEEVE 33 BACK SLEEVE 27

23

22

24

34 BACK FACING 35 BUTTON PLACKET 36 SLEEVE TIE 40 SKIRT TIER 1

25

28 26

29

40

40

8

37

16 28

8 POCKET 22 FRONT BODICE 23 BACK BODICE 24 FRONT SLEEVE 25 BACK SLEEVE 26 SLEEVE TIER

27 NECKLINE BINDING 28 SLEEVE BAND 29 TIE 40 SKIRT TIER 2

39 40 38

8 POCKET 16 BACK BODICE 28 SLEEVE BAND 37 FRONT BODICE 38 SLEEVE 30

31 32

33

36

40

6 34

35

8

39 NECKLINE BINDING 40 SKIRT TIER 1 40 SKIRT TIER 2

NOTES . Seam allowances are 1,5 cm (5/8”) unless otherwise mentionned and are included in

CUTTING PLAN

Right side of fabric

the pattern.

.

It’s highly recommended to treat your fabric before you start sewing: pre-shrink if necessary and press your fabric before cutting.

Wrong side of fabric

. Choose your size according to the Body measurements chart on the back cover (you can also refer to the Finished measurements to know the amount of ease).

Right side of lining

. We recommend you make a muslin to check the fit before cutting your final fabric. . sewing patterns are designed for a B cup bust and an average height of 1,65

Wrong side of lining

m (5 ft 5).

. Extra measurements:

- Length (from shoulder to hem): View a, b, c, e, f: approx. 123 cm (48”), View d: 93 cm (361/2”).

Interfacing

Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 4,80 m / 5 yd

HOW TO CUT THE SKIRT TIERS The skirt tier pieces are included in the PDF as a separate file. You can print it or use the following measurements to make your own pattern:

.

The skirt tier 1 measurements are: height 33,5 cm (13 cutting plan, the tier is folded in two.

1/4”)

x width (see chart below). On the

.

The skirt tier 2 measurements are: height 64,5 cm (25 cutting plan, the tier is folded in two.

1/2”)

x width (see chart below). On the

40

. You can change the size of the skirt tiers depending on the look you want to achieve: use the

1

whole width of your fabric to get a fuller skirt or use less width for a sleeker look, add or remove length to the tiers... The skirt part is easily modified. Size Width

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

100 391/2

102 401/4

104 41

106 413/4

108 421/2

110 473/4

112 44

114 45

117 46

120 471/4

40

7

40

5

40

40

40

6

5

9 9 4

2 8

3

8

10 10

40

40

Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 3,40 m / 3 yd 2 ft

40

40

Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 3,60 m / 3 yd 3 ft

40

40

40

40

40

40

29

11

12

8

Lining (width 150/110 cm / 60”/45”): 0,55 m / 2 ft

11

8

12

8

23

27

26

28 25

22

24

8

14 13

Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 3,15 m / 3 yd 1 ft Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 5 m / 5 yd 1 ft 40

40

40

40

40

40

40

40

40

40

40

40

35 6 17

17

16

15

Interfacing (width 150/110 cm / 60”/45”): 0,40 m / 1,5 ft

20

18 18

17 21

8

8 21

40

33

33

32

32 35

17

18 18 34

19 21

31

30

21 36

34 36

36

36

BODICE Main fabric (width 150 cm/60”): 3,90 m / 4 yd 1 ft

40

16

40

39

28

37 8

8

40

38

40

40

1. With right sides together, pin the front sleeve to the front armhole, matching the notches and dots. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim and finish the seam allowances (serger, zigzag, bias binding). Press toward the bodice. Repeat for the back sleeve.

2. Finish the upper sleeve seam allowances. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces at the upper sleeve seam. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge, leaving an opening between the top two notches. Press open.

3. With right sides together, stitch the front and back facing pieces together. Press the seam allowances open.

4. Finish the outer edge of the facing.

5. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the center back seam and press. Turn in again along the notch and press. Stitch the top edge of the button placket 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the corners.

6. With right sides together, pin the facing to the neckline, matching the shoulder seams (the facing is shorter than the back). Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances.

7. Understitch the facing: press the seam allowances toward the facing and stitch very close to the edge. Turn the button placket inside out and press.

8. Topstitch the facing and button placket on the outer edges. Stitch the buttonholes on the back left side and the buttons on the right side.

12. Press the pockets toward the skirt front. With right sides together, pin the bodice and skirt at the waistline, matching side seams and centers. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge.

13. Finish the waist seam allowance and press it toward the bodice. Topstitch the seam allowance 1,2 cm (1/2”) above the waistline to create a casing for the ties.

14. With right sides together, fold the waist ties in two lengthwise. Stitch 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge and trim the seam allowances. Turn inside out.

15. Pass the waist ties through the opening of the waist casing: one in the front and one in the back to adjust the waistline. Fold over the ends and stitch or make a little knot to prevent the fabric from fraying.

9. Finish the underarm seam allowances. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces along the underarm seam. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge, leaving an opening between the notches at the bottom of the bodice. Press open.

SKIRT

SLEEVES

10. Finish the curved edges of the pockets. With right sides together, pin the pocket to the skirt top tier, matching notches. Stitch 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the pocket, away from the skirt. Repeat for the other pockets.

11. With right sides together, pin the front and back skirt pieces together. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge around the pocket and then along the pocket opening from the top to the first pocket notch and from the second pocket notch to the bottom edge.

16. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the sleeve hem and press.

17. Turn in again along the bottom notch and press. Topstitch two lines around the opening to create a casing 2 cm (1/4”) and 3 cm (1 3/16”) from the bottom edge.

BODICE 18. Repeat step 14 for the sleeve ties. Pass the sleeve tie through the opening of the casing to adjust the sleeve width. Fold over the ends and stitch or make a little knot to prevent the fabric from fraying.

SKIRT TIERS

19. With right sides together, pin the 3 skirt tier panels at the sides and stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press them open. Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top edge of the skirt tier panels. Divide the tier into quarters: fold it in two using one of the seams (center back seam). Mark the opposite side (center front). Fold again in two and mark the sides.

1. With right side together, stitch the front and back bodice pieces at the sides 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances open.

2. With right sides together, fold the straps in two lengthwise. Stitch 0,5 cm (3/16”) from the edge. Turn inside out.

3. With right side together, pin strap 2 over strap 1 on the front bodice neckline. Baste 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the top edge.

4. With right sides together, pin strap 1 straight on the back notches. Cross strap 2 and pin over. Baste 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the top edge.

5. With right side together, stitch the front and back lining pieces at the sides 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances open. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the bottom edge and press.

6. With right sides together, pin the lining over the main bodice. Stitch the top edge 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and the corners around the straps.

20. With right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the skirt and the top edge of the tier, gathering the tier to match notches. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press toward the top.

21. Repeat these last 2 steps for the bottom tier with 5 panels. Then fold the bottom edge of the skirt 1,5 cm (5/8”) to the inside. Press. Fold again 1,5 cm, press and edgestitch.

BODICE

7. Turn the bodice inside out and understitch the seam allowances to the lining.

1. Cut the left side front bodice piece along the cutting line.

SKIRT 8. Repeat steps 10 and 11 (view a) for the pockets (with 2 skirt tiers 1 instead of the top tiers). Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top edge of the first tier. Press the pockets toward the skirt front. With right sides together, pin the bodice (do not catch the lining) and skirt at the waistline, matching side seams and centers. Gather the skirt evenly. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press toward the bodice.

9. Repeat steps 19 to 21 (view a) for the other skirt tier (3 tiers of skirt tier 2) and hem. Place the lining over the waistline seam allowances to enclose them and handstitch in place.

2. On the right side front bodice piece, turn the center front seam in along the first notches (3,5 cm / 1 3/8” from the center front edge) and press.

3. Turn in again along the third notches (4,5 cm / 1 3/4” from the folded edge) and press.

4. Stitch from the top notch to the bottom one (2,5 cm / 1” from the folded edge), enclosing the center front edge.

5. Open the hidden button placket and stitch the buttonholes on the right side.

6. Fold the hidden placket on itself and press.

7. On the left side front bodice piece, turn the center front seam in along the first notches, 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge, and press.

11. With wrong sides facing up, pin the cuff binding to the sleeve opening and stitch 0,5 cm (3/16”) from the edge.

12. Turn in 0,5 cm (3/16”) on the cuff binding edge and fold it over the seam allowances to enclose them. Stitch very close to the edge.

13. Fold the binding in two and stitch diagonally across the end.

8. Turn in again along the second notches (2,5 cm / 1” from the folded edge) and press.

9. Stitch from the top notch to the bottom one (2,5 cm / 1” from the folded edge), enclosing the center front edge.

SLEEVES

10. Cut the back sleeves along the cutting line.

14. With right sides together, pin the front sleeve to the front bodice, matching notches and dots. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. Repeat for the back.

15. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces along the shoulder and underarm seams. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches at the bottom of the sleeves.

17. Interface the cuff pieces (if your fabric is on the heavy side, interface only half of the pieces). With right sides together, pin the cuff to the sleeve hem, from one end of the binding to the other. The cuff extends 1,5 cm (5/8”) from each side of the binding. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances toward the cuff.

17. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the bottom of the other cuff piece and press. Pin the cuffs with right sides together. Stitch the outer edge of the cuff 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances.

18. Turn the cuff inside out and press. Topstitch very close to the edge to enclose the seam allowances. Stitch the buttonhole and button.

21. Turn the collar right side out and press. Topstitch very close to the outer edge.

22. Pin the collar to the collar stand, matching the end of the collar with the notch. Baste within the seam allowances.

23. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the bottom edge of the other collar piece and press.

24. With right sides together, pin the collar stand to the other one, enclosing the collar. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and notch the curved corner of the collar stand.

25. Turn the collar right side out and press. Remove the collar basting stitches. Handstitch the bottom edge of the collar stand to enclose the seam allowances.

26. Topstitch around the collar stand, very close from the edge. Stitch the buttonhole on the right side and the button on the left. Add the buttons on the left side of the bodice.

COLLAR

SKIRT 19. Interface the collar stand and collar pieces (again, if your fabric is heavy, interface only half the pieces). With right sides together, pin the collar stand to the neckline. The collar stand extends 1,5 cm (5/8”) from each side of the neckline. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and press them toward the collar stand.

20. With right sides together, pin the collar pieces together and stitch the outer edge 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and the corners.

27. Repeat steps 10 and 11 (view a) for the pockets (with 2 skirt tiers 1 instead of the top tiers). Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top edge of the first tier. Press the pockets toward the skirt front. With right sides together, pin the bodice and skirt at the waistline, matching side seams and centers. Gather the skirt evenly. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press toward the bodice.

28. Repeat steps 19 to 21 (view a) for the other 2 tiers and hem.

BODICE

1. With right sides together, pin the front sleeve to the front bodice, matching notches and dots. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. Repeat for the back.

3. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches at the top of the sleeve tiers.

2. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces along the shoulder. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. 9. With right sides together, pin the neckline binding pieces matching the notches. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge and press the seam allowances open.

10. With wrong sides together, fold the binding in two lengthwise and press.

11. With right sides together, pin the neckline binding to the neckline, matching notches along the sleeve seams. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances.

12. Understitch the seam allowances to the binding. Fold the binding in and topstitch, enclosing the seam allowances.

4. With right sides together, pin the sleeve tier to the sleeves, gathering the tier to match. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and press them toward the sleeve.

5. With right sides together, fold the ties in two lengthwise. Stitch 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances. Turn inside out.

6. Baste the tie to the left front just above the notch.

7. With right sides together, pin the front and back together at underarms. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press open.

8. Pin the other tie to the right front end. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge.

SLEEVE BANDS

13. With right sides together, stitch the small end of the sleeve band 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances open.

14. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on one edge of the sleeve band. Press.

BODICE

15. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches at the bottom of the sleeve tiers. With right sides together, pin the band to the sleeve, gathering it to match. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge.

16. Trim the seam allowances and fold the band over the seam allowances. Handstitch.

SKIRT

17. Repeat steps 10 and 11 (view a) for the pockets (with 3 skirt tiers 2 instead of the top tiers). Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top edge of the skirt tier. Press the pockets toward the skirt fronts.

18. With right sides together, pin the bodice and skirt at the waistline, matching side seams. Gather the skirt evenly. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the bodice.

19. Turn in 0,5 cm (3/16”) on the skirt front seam and press. Turn in again 1 cm (3/8”) and press. Topstitch to enclose the seam allowances, making sure the tie faces outward. Fold the bottom edge of the skirt 1,5 cm (5/8”) to the inside. Press. Fold again 1,5 cm, press and edgestitch.

20. From the inside, stitch a thread loop on the front edge and a button on the side seam allowances.

1. With right sides together, fold the button placket in two lengthwise and stitch the top 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances. Repeat for the other one.

2. Turn right side out and press. On one placket, stitch the buttonholes (choose the one with the opening on the left side so your buttonholes nice side is facing up).

3. With right sides together, pin the placket with buttonholes on the left side of the back just below the notch, matching lines A and notches. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge until the bottom notch. Repeat for the placket without buttonholes on the right side.

4. Cut the back open between the two plackets and clip the seam allowances in the bottom corners diagonally, in the direction of the button plackets. Finish the opening seam allowances and press them outward.

5. Overlap the plackets, the one with buttonholes on top of the other. Stitch the bottom edges with the little triangle of the opening 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press down.

6. Topstitch around the placket, catching the seam allowances as well, about 2 mm (1/8”) from the edge.

SLEEVES

7. With right sides together, pin the back sleeve to the back bodice, matching notches and dots. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. Repeat for the front.

8. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces at underarm and sides. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press them open.

13. With right sides together, fold the ties in two lengthwise. Stitch 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances. Turn inside out.

14. Pass the ties through the casings. Secure them at the shoulder notch, leaving a 0,5 cm seam allowance past the notch, with a strong backstitch or a bartack. Fold over the ends and stitch or make a little knot to prevent the fabric from fraying.

FACINGS 15. Depending of your fabric choice, interface the facings. With right sides together, pin the front and back facing pieces and stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the center back edges and press.

9. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on the sleeve bottom edge. Press.

10. Turn in again 1,5 cm (5/8”) and press. Stitch.

16. With right sides together, pin the facing to the neckline, matching the folded edges with the button placket edges. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances, and understitch the facing.

17. Turn the facing in and press. Topstitch the facing along the outer edge, about 5 cm (2”) from the edge.

SKIRT 11. With right sides together, pin the front and back sleeves together. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish the seam allowances and press them open.

12. Stitch the casings on each side of the upper sleeve 1,2 cm (1/2”) from the center seam, from the bottom edge to the shoulder notch. Leave the casings open on each end.

18. Repeat steps 19 and 20 (view a) for the skirt tier.

19. Fold the bottom edge of the skirt 1,5 cm (5/8”) to the inside. Press. Fold again 1,5 cm, press and edgestitch.

BODICE

6. With right sides together, pin the band to the sleeve, gathering it to match. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge.

7. Trim the seam allowances and fold the band over the seam allowances. Handstitch.

NECKLINE

1. With right sides together, fold the sleeve in two and stitch the shoulder dart. Finish the seam allowances and press toward the back.

2. With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the front bodice, matching notches and dots. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim, finish and press the seam allowances open. Repeat for the back.

3. With right sides together, pin the front and back pieces at underarm and sides. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Finish and press the seam allowances open. Stitch two rows of gathers at the bottom of the sleeves.

8. For the neckline binding, follow steps 9 and 10 of view d. With right sides together, pin the neckline binding to the neckline, matching notches along the sleeve seams. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim the seam allowances.

9. Understitch the seam allowances to the binding. Fold the binding in and topstitch, enclosing the seam allowances.

10. Place the right front bodice on top of the left front bodice and match the extremities to the notches. Baste the fronts together 1,2 cm (1/2”) from the edge.

CUFFS SKIRT

4. With right sides together, stitch the small end of the sleeve band 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press the seam allowances open.

5. Turn in 1,5 cm (5/8”) on one edge of the sleeve band. Press.

11. Repeat steps 10 and 11 (view a) for the pockets (with 2 skirt tiers 2 instead of the top tiers). Stitch two rows of basting stitches at the top edge of the first tier. Press the pockets toward the skirt front. With right sides together, pin the bodice and skirt at the waistline, matching side seams and centers. Gather the skirt evenly. Stitch 1,5 cm (5/8”) from the edge. Press toward the bodice.

12. Repeat steps 19 to 21 (view a) for the secong tier (with 3 tiers 1 instead of 5) and hem.