Daring Pairings: A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive Wines with Recipes from His Favorite Chefs 9780520945562

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daring pairings

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EVAN GOLDSTEIN

A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive Wines with Recipes from His Favorite Chefs

Photographs by Joyce Oudkerk Pool UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS

BERKELEY | LOS ANGELES | LONDON

The publisher gratefully acknowledges the

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

generous support of the General Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation.

Goldstein, Evan. Daring pairings : a master sommelier matches

University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www. ucpress.edu.

University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, England © 2010 by Evan Goldstein Photographs © 2010 by Joyce Oudkerk Pool Recipe for Roast Rack of Lamb with Creamy Rice with Parsnips © Dan Barber Design by Nola Burger Photography by Joyce Oudkerk Pool with the assistance of Ashley Quintana Food styling by Pouké with the assistance of Christina Milne Prop styling by Carol Hacker/Tableprop Copyediting by Erika Bu˝ky Indexing by Thérèse Shere Text: 10.25/14 Chaparral Display: Univers and Univers Ultra Condensed Compositor: Integrated Composition Systems Printed through: Asia Pacific Offset, Inc.

distinctive wines with recipes from his favorite chefs / Evan Goldstein ; photographs by Joyce Oudkerk Pool. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN

978-0-520-25478-7 (cloth : alk. paper)

1. Cookery. 2. Wine and wine making. I. Title. T X 714.G 647

2010

641.5—dc22

2009037668

Manufactured in China 18

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14 13 5

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The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of A N S I / N I S O Z 39.48–1992 (R 1997) (Permanence of Paper).

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

contents

viii

INTRODUCTION: WINE AND FOOD TODAY CREATING PAIRINGS THAT WORK

9

HOW TO NAVIGATE THE GRAPES

26

1

RED WINES

WHITE WINES

Albariño 33

Aglianico

Arneis

Barbera

39

Cabernet Franc

Assyrtiko 45 Chenin Blanc Garganega

71

64

Cinsaut

89

194 203 211

Grenache

219

Malbec 229

97

Roussanne

180

Dolcetto Gamay

Pinot Blanc

105

Mencía 236

Sémillon 112

Mourvèdre 243

Torrontés

121

Nebbiolo

Trebbiano

128

Petite Sirah

251 260

Txakoli 136

Pinotage

Verdejo

Tannat 276

142

Vermentino

173

Carmenère 188

58

Muscat 78 Prosecco

Carignan

51

Grüner Veltliner Marsanne

159 166

148

268

Tempranillo

284

Touriga Nacional Xinomavro

292

300

ABOUT THE CHEFS

308

SUMMARY OF WINE ST YLES SHOPPING FOR WINE GLOSSARY

320

RESOURCES

326

GENERAL INDEX RECIPE INDEX

331

349

318

315

recipes Pinot Blanc | Hubert KellerÚ

PHOTOS FOLLOW PAGE 70

Hawaiian Burger with Pineapple–Macadamia WHITE WINES

Nut Relish

Albariño | Larry TseÚ

Prosecco | Vikram VijÚ

Steamed Manila Clams with Udon

37

94

Ras el Hanout Crab Salad with Onion

Arneis | Lachlan M. PattersonÚ

Rings

Grilled Snapper with Root Vegetable

Roussanne | Richard VellanteÚ

Salad

Lobster Cioppino

43

Assyrtiko | Anne S. QuatranoÚ Filet Bean and Scallop Salad

49

102

109

Sémillon | Kate ZuckermanÚ Sherry-Roasted Figs with Crispy Streusel

Chenin Blanc | Loretta KellerÚ

and Crème Fraîche

Mushroom Salad with Warm Goat Cheese

Torrontés | Michelle BernsteinÚ

Toasts

Peruvian Seafood Chowder

56

118

125

Garganega | Ethan StowellÚ

Trebbiano | Susan SpicerÚ

Grilled Branzino with Heirloom-Tomato

Louisiana Popcorn Rice and Wild Rice Pilaf

Panzanella

with Crabmeat, Almonds, and Lemon

62

133

Grüner Veltliner | Floyd CardozÚ

Txakoli | Gerald HirigoyenÚ

Vegetable Pot-au-Feu with Toasted Spice

White Bean and Salt Cod Stew with Guindilla

Broth

Peppers

68

140

Marsanne | Philippe JeantyÚ

Verdejo | David KinchÚ

Veal Chops with Aligot

Shrimp Tartine with Fava Bean, Almond,

76

Muscat | Emily LuchettiÚ

and Mint Pesto

Almond Cake with a Warm Red Berry–

Vermentino | Craig StollÚ

Vanilla Compote

Pan-Roasted Halibut with Melted Leeks

86

146

and Meyer Lemon–Caper Butter

vi

153

RED WINES

Mencía | Douglas KeaneÚ

Aglianico | Joyce GoldsteinÚ

Seared Tuna with Braised Cabbage and

Lasagna with Neapolitan Ragù

Roasted Mushrooms

163

240

Barbera | Evan Kleiman

Mourvèdre | Cindy PawlcynÚ

Juniper-Scented Chicken Liver Pâté

Barbecued Turkey Skewers with

on Crostini

Caramelized Sage Onions

171

248

Cabernet Franc | Michael RomanoÚ

Nebbiolo | Nate ApplemanÚ

Penne with Asparagus, Prosciutto, and

Braised Duck Leg in Ragù with Chestnut

Peppers

Polenta and Green Olives 257

178

Carignan | Suzanne Goin

Petite Sirah | Christopher GrossÚ

Warm Kabocha Squash Salad with

Mixed Grill 265

Dandelion, Bacon, Roncal, and Pecans 185

Pinotage | Michael LevitonÚ

Carmenère | Frank StittÚ

Roasted Pork Shoulder with Pan-Roasted

Lentil Soup with Fennel Sausages 192

Carrots

Cinsaut | Mourad LahlouÚ

Tannat | Robert Del GrandeÚ

Duck Basteeya

Rustic Beef Stew with Prunes and

199

Guajillo Chile Sauce 281

Dolcetto | Paul BartolottaÚ

Tempranillo | Dan BarberÚ

Wild Salmon with Dolcetto Wine Sauce, Chanterelles, and Brussels Sprout Leaves

273

207

Roast Rack of Lamb with Creamy Rice with Parsnips

Gamay | Charlie TrotterÚ

290

Salad of Cornish Game Hen with Shiitake

Touriga Nacional | Ben BarkerÚ

Mushroom Vinaigrette

Grilled Pork Chops with Dried Cherry,

216

Bacon, and Vidalia Onion Conserve 297

Grenache | Laurent ManriqueÚ

Xinomavro | Tom DouglasÚ

Roasted Chicken with Fingerling Potatoes and Fava Bean and Cipollini Onion Salad

225

Grilled Lamb Skewers with Xinomavro and Honey Glaze

Malbec | Fergus HendersonÚ Braised Shank of Beef 234

vii

304

AC KNOWLEDGMENTS

ÚM7IÚCEL;:ÚJEÚMH?J;ÚJ>?IÚ8EEAÚ7;7H:Ú7:ÚDEÚ?:;7ÚM>;H;ÚJEÚ8;=?DÚM>;DÚF7?H?D=Ú;ÚMEH:IÚE;Ú;7JB;I Ú^7ÚB?JJB;Ú>;BFÚ;Ú=7H7=;Ú7D:ÚJ>;Ú9EKDJB;IIÚJ7IJ?D=IÚ9KJÚ?DJEÚ7FF?BOÚ I7CFB?D=ÚJ>;ÚH;9?F;I ÚJ>7DAÚEDD?;Ú)>?>ÚE>D ÚJ>?IÚ8EEAIÚC7D7=;H Ú:?H;9JEH Ú7D:ÚFB7DD;H ÚM>EÚ:;Ú7ÚIC?B;ÚD:Ú7HOÚ-EE ÚC7IJ;HÚH;9?F;ÚJ;IJ;H ÚM>EI;ÚIA?BBÚ7D:Ú;NF;H?;D9;:ÚF7B7J;Ú C7:;ÚJ>;ÚEKJÚ>?IÚ>;BFÚÚMEKB:Ú>7L;Ú8;;DÚ7FIÚC7:;Ú7:@KIJ C;DJIÚ7D:ÚJM;7AIÚJ>7JÚMEKB:DJÚMEHAÚM?J>ÚJ>;ÚM?D;IÚEHÚH;IF;9JÚJ>;Ú?DJ;=H?JOÚE;Ú9>;7DAÚJ>EI;ÚJ>?HJO I?NÚ7C7P?D=Ú9>;EI;Ú?DIF?H;:Ú7D:Ú:;B?9?EKIÚH;9? F;IÚ7::Ú9EBEHÚ7D:Ú9EDJ;NJÚJEÚJ>;ÚM?D;I Ú;CÚ7D:Ú8H?D=?D=ÚEKJÚ7BBÚE;?HÚMED:;H7DAIÚJEÚCOÚCEJ>;H Ú EO9; ÚM>EI;ÚÚ9EEA8EEAÚIJHK9JKH;Ú>;BF;:ÚC;Ú:;I?=DÚ 7ÚJHKBOÚ87B7D9;:ÚI;JÚEÚÚ7BIEÚEM;Ú7Ú=H;7JÚ:;7BÚJEÚJ>;Ú9EBB;9J?L;Ú=;D;HEI?JOÚE7CFI

ix

albariño |

LARRY TSE’S STEAMED MANILA CLAMS WITH UDON

PAGE 37

aglianico

|

JOYCE GOLDSTEIN’S LASAGNA WITH NEAPOLITAN RAGÙ

PAGE 163

arneis

|

LACHLAN M. PATTERSON’S GRILLED SNAPPER WITH ROOT VEGETABLE SALAD

PAGE 43

assyrtiko |

ANNE S. QUATRANO’S FILET BEAN AND SCALLOP SALAD

PAGE 49

barbera

|

EVAN KLEIMAN’S JUNIPER-SCENTED CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ ON CROSTINI

PAGE 171

cabernet franc

|

MICHAEL ROMANO’S PENNE WITH ASPARAGUS, PROSCIUTTO, AND PEPPERS

PAGE 178

carignan |

SUZANNE GOIN’S WARM K ABOCHA SQUASH SALAD WITH DANDELION, BACON, RONCAL, AND PECANS

PAGE 185

carmenère

|

FRANK STITT’S LENTIL SOUP WITH FENNEL SAUSAGES

PAGE 192

chenin blanc

|

LORETTA KELLER’S MUSHROOM SALAD WITH WARM GOAT CHEESE TOASTS

PAGE 56

cinsaut |

MOURAD LAHLOU’S DUCK BASTEEYA

PAGE 199

dolcetto |

PAUL BARTOLOTTA’S WILD SALMON WITH DOLCETTO WINE SAUCE, CHANTERELLES, AND BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES

PAGE 207

garganega

|

ETHAN STOWELL’S GRILLED BRANZINO WITH HEIRLOOM-TOMATO PANZANELLA

PAGE 62

gamay |

CHARLIE TROTTER’S SALAD OF CORNISH GAME HEN WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOM VINAIGRETTE

PAGE 216

grenache

|

LAURENT MANRIQUE’S ROASTED CHICKEN WITH FINGERLING POTATOES AND FAVA BEAN AND CIPOLLINI ONION SALAD

PAGE 225

grüner veltliner |

FLOYD CARDOZ’S VEGETABLE POT-AU-FEU WITH TOASTED SPICE BROTH

PAGE 68

malbec |

FERGUS HENDERSON’S BRAISED SHANK OF BEEF

PAGE 234

marsanne

|

PHILIPPE JEANTY’S VEAL CHOPS WITH ALIGOT

PAGE 76

mencía |

DOUGLAS KEANE’S SEARED TUNA WITH BRAISED CABBAGE AND ROASTED MUSHROOMS

PAGE 240

mourvèdre

|

CINDY PAWLCYN’S BARBECUED TURKEY SKEWERS WITH CARAMELIZED SAGE ONIONS

PAGE 248

muscat |

EMILY LUCHETTI’S ALMOND CAKE WITH A WARM RED BERRY–VANILLA COMPOTE

PAGE 86

nebbiolo

|

NATE APPLEMAN’S BRAISED DUCK LEG IN RAGÙ WITH CHESTNUT POLENTA AND GREEN OLIVES

PAGE 257

petite sirah |

CHRISTOPHER GROSS’S MIXED GRILL

PAGE 265

pinot blanc |

HUBERT KELLER’S HAWAIIAN BURGER WITH PINEAPPLE– MACADAMIA NUT RELISH

PAGE 94

pinotage |

MICHAEL LEVITON’S ROASTED PORK SHOULDER WITH PAN-ROASTED CARROTS

PAGE 273

prosecco

|

VIKRAM VIJ’S RAS EL HANOUT CRAB SALAD WITH ONION RINGS

PAGE 102

roussanne |

RICHARD VELLANTE’S LOBSTER CIOPPINO

PAGE 109

sémillon

|

K ATE ZUCKERMAN’S SHERRY-ROASTED FIGS WITH CRISPY STREUSEL AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE

PAGE 118

tannat

|

ROBERT DEL GRANDE’S RUSTIC BEEF STEW WITH PRUNES AND GUAJILLO CHILE SAUCE

PAGE 281

tempranillo |

DAN BARBER’S ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH CREAMY RICE WITH PARSNIPS

PAGE 290

torrontés |

MICHELLE BERNSTEIN’S PERUVIAN SEAFOOD CHOWDER

PAGE 125

trebbiano |

SUSAN SPICER’S LOUISIANA POPCORN RICE AND WILD RICE PILAF WITH CRABMEAT, ALMONDS, AND LEMON

PAGE 133

txakoli |

GERALD HIRIGOYEN’S WHITE BEAN AND SALT COD STEW WITH GUINDILLA PEPPERS

PAGE 140

touriga nacional |

BEN BARKER’S GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH DRIED CHERRY, BACON, AND VIDALIA ONION CONSERVE

PAGE 297

verdejo |

DAVID KINCH’S SHRIMP TARTINE WITH FAVA BEAN, ALMOND, AND MINT PESTO

PAGE 146

vermentino |

CRAIG STOLL’S PAN-ROASTED HALIBUT WITH MELTED LEEKS AND MEYER LEMON – CAPER BUTTER

PAGE 153

xinomavro

|

TOM DOUGLAS’S GRILLED LAMB SKEWERS WITH XINOMAVRO AND HONEY GLAZE

PAGE 304

INTRODUC TION

|

WINE AND FOOD TODAY

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F O O D I N T H E U. S . A .

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INTRODUCTION

6

$EÚBED=;HÚ?IÚJ>;ÚJOF?97BÚC;H?97DÚC;7BÚ7ÚJKD7Ú97II;HEB;ÚEHÚ7ÚFEJÚHE7IJÚ*E:7OIÚ:?DD;HÚJ78B;Ú ?IÚCEH;ÚB?A;BOÚJEÚ?B7:7I ÚJ7A;EKJÚ)P;9>K7D ÚIKF;HC7HA;JÚIKI>? ÚEHÚC?9HEM7L78B;Ú B;CED F;FF;HÚ9>?9A;DÚ KIJÚ7Ú7L;Ú8;;DÚ>7H:ÚJEÚ?C7=?D;ÚJ>7JÚJEHJ?BB7IÚ MEKB:Ú8;Ú7ÚH;7DÚßÛÚF;H9;DJÚEEKI;>EB:IÚM?J>Ú"7J?DEIÚ IJ?BBÚH;FH;I;DJ?D=ÚB;IIÚJ>7DÚÝÛÚF;H9;DJÚE;ÚD7J?EDIÚFEFKB7J?ED  ÚD:ÚÚIKIF;9JÚJ>7JÚJ>;ÚI7C;Ú >EB:IÚEI;Ú?CF79JÚ?IÚL?L?:ÚJ>HEK=>ÚJ>;Ú?DJHE:K9J?EDÚE;Ú +D?J;:Ú)J7J;I ÚJ>H;;ÚEJ>;HÚ7L;Ú:H7C7J?97BBOÚ7BJ;H;:ÚJ>;Ú;ÚC7DÚM>EÚED9;ÚB78;B;:ÚA;J9>KFÚ7ÚL;=;J78B; ÚI7MÚ:? L;HI?;ÚC;H?97DÚJ78B;Ú7IÚ7ÚA;OÚE8@;9J?L;ÚE?IÚFB7DÚ;Ú:;H;=KB7J?EDÚE7IÚKD?GK;BOÚ?DcK;D9;:ÚM>7JÚM;Ú;7JÚ*EÚ9ECF;J;Ú?DÚJ>;Ú=BE87BÚ;9EDECO Ú9ECF7D?;IÚ I;D:Ú;CFBEO;;IÚ7HEKD:ÚJ>;Ú9EKDJHOÚ7D:Ú7BBÚEL;HÚJ>;ÚMEHB:ÚD9EKDJ;HIÚM?J>ÚD;MÚ7?Ú?DÚ7D=AEA Ú=?L;Ú8KI?D;IIÚJH7L;B;HIÚ7ÚD;MÚF;HIF;9J?L;ÚEDÚJ>;?HÚ :?D?D=Ú7D:ÚD;MÚ:?I>;IÚJEÚ7::ÚJEÚJ>;?HÚH;F;HJE?H;Ú7JÚ>EC;ÚEHÚJ>EI;ÚM>EÚJH7L;BÚ;Ú EFFEHJKD?J?;IÚJEÚI7CFB;ÚD;MÚ9K?I?D;IÚ7H;Ú;L;DÚ=H;7J;HÚ7D:ÚCEH;Ú;D@EO78B;Ú#7DOÚ;?HÚ:?;JIÚ>7L;ÚI>?7IÚ8;9EC;Ú7ÚH;9E=D?P;:ÚF7IJ?C; ÚM?J>ÚC7=7P?D;IÚ7D:Ú=K?:;8EEAIÚJEÚIKFFEHJÚ?JÚ->;J>;HÚOEKÚ M7DJÚJEÚJH7L;BÚJ>;Ú879AÚHE7:IÚE7;BÚ)J;HDIÚ(E7:;ÚE;B?D IJ7HH;:ÚH;IJ7KH7DJIÚE7L;Ú7:7FJ;:ÚJEÚI7J ?IÚ;:Ú:EMDÚM?J>ÚIK=7HOÚIE:7IÚJÚ ?ID;OIÚF9EJÚEE:Ú7D:Ú-?D;Ú;IJ?L7B Ú7DÚ7DDK7BÚ9;B;8H7J?ED ÚJ>EKI7D:IÚE7L;ÚFB7O;:Ú7ÚL?J7BÚF7HJÚ?DÚJ>?IÚ=7IJHEDEC?9ÚH;LEBKJ?EDÚEE:Ú7D:ÚM?D;ÚC;:?7Ú>7L;Ú ;LEBL;:Ú8;OED:ÚM;;ABOÚD;MIF7F;HÚ;Ú)7BI7 Ú&EHÚ7LEH lÚ>JJFKD:;H9KHH;DJIJC=IJH7J;=?;I9ECÝÛÛâÛß F7=;Ý ÚFH?BÚÝß ÚÝÛÛâ

INTRODUCTION

7

8BE=I ÚFE:97IJI Ú7D:ÚD;JMEHAÚ7D:Ú978B;ÚJ;B;L?I?EDÚI>EMIÚ-;Ú7H;ÚJ7DJ7B?P;:Ú8OÚH;9?F;I ÚM?D; J7IJ?D=ÚDEJ;I Ú7D:ÚJH7L;BE=K;I ÚC7DOÚE;CÚ7L7?B78B;ÚÚ7IÚJ>;ÚJH7L;BIÚEEDOÚEKH:7?DÚJEÚ,?;JD7CÚ7D:ÚH7P?B ÚJEÚJ>;ÚFKH;BOÚ 9ECÚ7IÚJ>;ÚEE:Ú$;JMEHAIÚKOÚ?;H?Ú;Ú:?;ÚH;IJ7KH7DJÚI;9J?EDÚ ?DÚOEKHÚBE97BÚ/;BBEMÚ&7=;IÚM?BBÚI>EMÚOEKÚ-?J>ÚF7II?ED7J;Ú9EEAIÚ?DÚOEKHÚD;?=>8EH>EE:ÚM>EÚ >7L;ÚIJK:?;: ÚJH7?D;: Ú7D:ÚJH7L;B;:Ú7HEKD:ÚJ>;Ú=BE8; ÚOEKÚDEÚBED=;HÚD;;:ÚJEÚL?I?JÚJ7BOÚJEÚÚI7J?I7JÚC;H?97IÚ:;I?H;ÚJEÚ;7JÚCEH;Ú:7H?D=BOÚ?IÚF;HL7I?L;ÚD 9H;7I?D=BOÚ7:L?I;:Ú8OÚ9;B;8H?JO 9>;;ÚMEHB:ÚEEK=>Ú7ÚH?F;ÚH;D79>;Ú MEKB:Ú8;Ú7ÚJ;HH?b9ÚC7J9> ÚKJÚC7DOÚEEÚ;D@EOÚJ>;ÚBE97BÚH;;AÚH;IJ7KH7DJ ÚJ>;Ú$;MÚD= B7D:ÚBE8IJ;HÚI>79AÚ8OÚJ>;ÚF?;H ÚJ>;Ú)F7D?I> J>;C;:ÚM?D;Ú87H ÚEHÚ7ÚD;7H8OÚ7KJ>;DJ?97BBOÚ(EC7DÚ JH7JJEH?7Ú7H;ÚA;;DÚJEÚJHOÚ:??9A;DÚEHÚI?CFB;ÚB7C8ÚIJ;MÚ7JÚ>EC;ÚÚOEKHÚM?D;Ú7D:Ú?IÚ8EEAIÚÚFH79J?9;ÚD:ÚM?J>Ú8EJ> ÚOEKÚH;79>Ú7ÚFE?DJÚ M>;DÚOEKHÚADEMB;:=;Ú8;9EC;IÚH;c;N?L; ÚEEB Ú:?B?=;DJBOÚ C;CEH?P?D=ÚL;H8ÚJ;DI;I ÚLE978KB7HO Ú7D:Ú=H7CC7HÚ*>;D ÚEDÚ7HH?L?D=Ú?DÚ&7H?IÚJEÚMEHA ÚÚH;7B ?P;:ÚJ>7JÚ:;IF?J;Ú7BBÚJ>7JÚIJK:O ÚÚM7IÚÚIFEA;ÚD=B?I> Ú7D:Ú>7:Ú?JÚDEJÚ8;;DÚ;ÚF7J?;D9;Ú7D:Ú:?B? =;D9;ÚE;Ú9>;ÚM>ECÚÚMEHA;:ÚEDÚJ>;ÚB?D;ÚM>EÚ?IÚIJ?BBÚCOÚ8;IJÚ7L;Ú 8;;DÚIKDAÚ;ÚJ7K=>JÚC;Ú7H=EJÚIB7D= Ú7D: ÚCEH;Ú?CFEHJ7DJ ÚIFEA;ÚM?J>ÚC; ÚF7J?;DJBOÚ7D:Ú M?J>EKJÚ@K:=C;DJ ÚIÚ7IÚÚB?IJ;D;: ÚJH7DIB7J;: ÚJ>EK=>JÚ78EKJÚM>7JÚÚM7DJ;:ÚJEÚI7O Ú JH7DIB7J;:Ú?JÚ879AÚ?DJEÚH;D9> Ú7D:ÚIFEA;ÚJ>;ÚMEH:IÚJEÚ>?CÚ?L;ÚIJ;FI Ú;L;HOÚJ?C;Ú*>;DÚED;Ú :7OÚ>;ÚI7?:ÚIEC;J>?D= Ú7D:ÚÚH;FB?;:Ú7KJEC7J?97BBO ÚM?J>EKJÚJH7DIB7J?D=Ú7D:ÚH;JH7DIB7J?D=ÚÚ >7:ÚbD7BBOÚ8;=KDÚJEÚJ>?DAÚ?DÚH;D9>Ú)?D9;ÚJ>;DÚ?JIÚ8;;DÚ;7IO ";7HD?D=ÚJ>;Ú^B7D=K7=;lÚE;Ú:?I> ÚJ7IJ?D=ÚJ>;ÚM?D; Ú 7D:Ú:;9?:?D=ÚM>;J>;HÚJ>;ÚF7?H?D=ÚMEHAI ÚJEÚJMEÚIJ;FIÚF?9A?D=Ú7ÚM?D;ÚJ>7JÚOEKH;Ú9EDb:;DJÚM?BBÚ F7?HÚM?J>ÚJ>;Ú;DÚ;D@EO?D=ÚJ>;ÚC7J9>  JÚMEKB:Ú8;ÚI;B< I;HL?D=Ú7JÚJ>;Ú8;IJÚM7OÚJEÚ7FFHE79>ÚM?D;Ú7D:ÚEI;ÚEEÚ>7L;ÚH;7:ÚJ>;Ú8EEAÚ 7D:ÚKD:;HIJ7D:ÚCOÚJ>?DA?D=ÚEDÚF7?H?D=ÚM?BBÚbD:ÚJ>;ÚFHE9;IIÚI?CFB;HÚJ>?IÚJ?C;Ú7HEKD:Ú7IÚM;Ú ;NFBEH;ÚD;MÚ=H7F;I ÚM?D;I Ú7D:Ú799ECF7DO?D=ÚH;9?F;IÚEHÚD;MÚH;7:;HI ÚÚIKCC7H?P;ÚCOÚ7F FHE79>Ú8;BEMÚ7D:Ú7:7FJÚ?JÚJEÚJ>;Ú=H7F;I ÚM?D;I Ú7D:ÚH;9?F;IÚJ>7JÚ7H;:ÚL7BK;I Ú;N

9

F;H?;D9;I Ú?DJ;H;IJI Ú7D:Ú?DD7J;Ú7JJH79J?EDÚ-?D;Ú7D:Ú;HÚM>;DÚJ>;Ú9>7H79J;HÚ JH7?JIÚE;ÚM?D;ÚC;I>ÚM?J>ÚJ>;Ú;ÚM?D;Ú:E;IDJÚ97H;ÚM>7JÚJ>;Ú:?I>Ú?IÚEHÚ ?IÚDEJ ÚEHÚM>;H;Ú?JÚEH?=?D7J;IÚ*>;ÚÚM?J>Ú7DÚ7I7:EÚ H=;DJ?D;7DÚ87H8;9K; ÚJ>7DÚI?C?B7H IJOB;:ÚM?D;IÚ;HÚM?D; FHE:K9?D=Ú=H7F;I ÚH;=?EDI Ú EHÚ9EKDJH?;IÚDEHÚ:E;IÚJ>7JÚ:;B?9?EKIÚH=;DJ?D;7DÚIBEM HE7IJ;:Ú8;;7JÚJ>;ÚM?D;Ú9EC;Ú ;ÚI7C;Ú9EKDJHOÚEHÚ;L;DÚJ>7JÚ?JÚ8;ÚH;:Ú->7JÚ>;H;IO ÚOEKÚI7O~7ÚM>?J;ÚM?D;ÚM?J>ÚH;:Ú C;7JÚ;F;D:IÚEDÚJ>;ÚM?D;ÚH;7:ÚED *>;Ú8KBAÚE;Ú87==7=;ÚM;Ú8H?D=ÚJEÚM?D;Ú7D:ÚEBE=?97BÚIÚM;ÚH;CEL;Ú J>;ÚFH;IIKH;IÚE;CÚM?J>ÚM>7JÚM;Ú7H;Ú;7J?D=Ú*>;I;ÚM?D;Ú9>7H 79J;H?IJ?9IÚ7H;ÚE?9>Ú7H;ÚIK8@;9J?L;Ú7D:Ú:; I9H?FJ?L;Ú7IIE9?7J?EDI Ú7D:ÚJ7IJ;I ÚM>?9>Ú7H;ÚE8@;9J?L;Ú7D:ÚGK7DJ?b78B;ÚBJ>EK=>Ú?JIÚMED:;H;OÚ7H;Ú9;HJ7?DBOÚDEJÚ;CF?H?97BBOÚC;7IKH78B;Ú-;Ú97DJÚH7J;Ú>EMÚFEHAOÚ7ÚFEHAÚ9>EFÚ ?IÚEHÚJ>;Ú?DJ;DI?JOÚE;H;Ú7H;Ú;OÚ7H;ÚFKH;Ú7D:Ú FH?C7BÚ7D:Ú97DÚ8;ÚC;7IKH;:ÚEDÚ7ÚI97B;Ú?=>Ú%DÚJ>?IÚI97B; ÚM;Ú97DÚ;NFH;IIÚ J>;ÚIEKHD;IIÚE;ÚIM;;JD;IIÚEED;O ÚJ>;Ú8?JJ;HD;IIÚE;ÚI7LEHÚEHEEC ÚEHÚJ>;ÚI7BJ?D;IIÚEEJÚ:E=Ú*>;ÚHEB;ÚE;I;ÚJ7IJ;IÚ7D:Ú >EMÚJ>;OÚMEHAÚ?DÚ9H;7J?D=ÚF7?H?D=IÚM?J>Ú7L;ÚJEÚ9>EEI;ÚM>;J>;HÚJ>;Ú;ÚM?D;ÚM?BBÚ8;ÚJ>;ÚIJ7HÚEÚD;?J>;HÚ ED;Ú:EC?D7J?D= Ú8KJÚ??=>B?=>JÚ7ÚIF;9?7BÚ8EJJB;ÚE;Ú799ECF7DO?D=ÚEKB:ÚFB7OÚI;9ED:Úb::B;ÚEM97I;Ú7ÚH;9?F;ÚOEKL;Ú ÚI;B;9JÚ7Ú B;IIÚ7II;HJ?L;ÚM?D; /EKHÚF;H9;FJ?EDÚE;DÚOEKÚJ7IJ;Ú?JÚEDÚ?JIÚEMDÚM?BBÚ8;Ú:?< Ú7ÚC;7BÚÚM7IÚ7BM7OIÚ?CFH;II;:ÚM?J>ÚJ>;ÚI>EHJ B?L;:Ú-?D;Ú 7D:ÚEE:ÚECF7D?EDÚD;MIB;JJ;HÚMH?JJ;DÚ?DÚJ>;ÚÜääÛIÚ8OÚ7L?:Ú(EI;D=7HJ;DÚ7D:Ú EI>K7Ú-;IIED Ú J>;Ú7KJ>EHIÚEÚ?I>ÚÜäãä ÚIJ?BBÚED;ÚE;ÚCEIJÚ?DDEL7J?L;ÚMEHAIÚEDÚM?D;Ú7D:Ú

ÚÚÚ+C7C?Ú?IÚJ>;ÚI7LEHOÚJ7IJ;ÚEÚ7IÚ=BKJ7C7J;Ú7D:ÚCEDEIE:?KCÚ=BKJ7C7J;Ú#) ÚM>?9>Ú7H;Ú ÚI7K9;

C R E AT I N G PA I R I N G S T H AT W O R K

10

;DÚJ>;OÚH7J;:ÚM?D;I ÚJ>;OÚ=7L;ÚJMEÚI9EH;IÚ*>;ÚbHIJÚM7IÚ7ÚDKC;H?9ÚI9EH;Ú;Ú?DJH?DI?9ÚGK7B?J?;IÚE;ÚM?D; ÚCK9>ÚB?A;ÚJ>EI;Ú7II?=D;:Ú8OÚ-?D;Ú)F;9J7JEH Ú-?D;ÚÚ)F?H?JI Ú 7D:Ú-?D;Ú:LE97J; Ú7CED=ÚEJ>;HÚFK8B?97J?EDIÚKJÚJ>;?HÚI;9ED:ÚI9EH;ÚH7J;:ÚJ>;ÚM?D;IÚ78?B?JOÚJEÚ F7?HÚM?J>ÚÚJ;HH?8B;Ú Ú*>;ÚbD:?D=IÚM;H;Ú7BM7OIÚ?DJ;H;IJ?D=Ú 7D:Ú 7JÚ J?C;IÚ IKHFH?I?D=Ú #7DOÚ >?=>BOÚ H7J;:Ú M?D;IÚ I>EM;:Ú =EH=;EKIBOÚ 7IÚ IEBE?IJIÚ 8KJÚ ;DÚF7?H;:ÚM?J>Ú?IÚ=;DH;ÚE7FFOÚED;I )M;;JD;IIÚ97DÚJ7A;ÚJ>;Ú;:=;ÚEÚL?D7?=H;JJ;IÚJ>7JÚ7H;Ú7JÚED9;ÚJ7HJÚ7D:ÚIM;;JÚF7?HÚI;7CB;IIBOÚ M?J>Ú E7DÚJ>;Ú:;II;HJÚ?JI;B;ÚM?I:ECÚE?IÚHKB;Ú?IÚ;L?:;DJÚJEÚ7DO8E:OÚM>EÚ>7IÚ;L;HÚ7JJ;D:;:Ú7ÚM;::?D=Ú7D:Ú;NF;H? ;D9;:ÚJ>;ÚKDÚ97A;Ú9EL;H;:Ú?DÚ=BEFFOÚ M>?J;Ú8KJJ;H9H;7CÚ;Ú B;L;BIÚ E;Ú M?D;Ú 7D:Ú J>;Ú :;II;HJÚ I>EKB:Ú C7J9> Ú J>EK=>Ú?JIÚ7BM7OIÚI77L;ÚJ>;ÚM?D;IÚIM;;JD;IIÚ;N9;;:ÚJ>7JÚE;Ú:;II;HJÚ-?J>ÚM;::?D=Ú 97A; ÚI;HL?D=Ú7ÚIM;;J;HÚ8K88BOÚIK9>Ú7IÚJ>;ÚI;;C?D=BOÚC?ID7C;: Ú8KJÚ79JK7BBOÚIM;;J;H Ú;NJH7 :HOÚEHÚ:;C? I;9ÚIJOB;I ÚMEKB:Ú8;Ú7ÚCK9>Ú8;JJ;HÚ97BB Ú7IÚJ>;ÚIM;;JD;IIÚE;ÚM?D;Ú7D:ÚJ>;Ú97A;Ú 7H;Ú8;JJ;HÚC7J9>;:ÚHK?J 87I;:Ú:;II;HJIÚ7H;ÚCEH;Ú9ECF7J?8B;ÚJ78B;C7J;IÚ?9A ÚIM;;JÚ8KJJ;H9H;7CIÚ7D:Ú=7D79>;ÚM?J>Ú8K88B?;I
Key 3. Tannin

DÚM?D; ÚJ7DD?DÚ97DÚ8;Ú7IIE9?7J;:ÚM?J>Ú7Ú8?JJ;HÚJ7IJ;Ú7D:Ú7ÚIEC;M>7JÚ=H?JJOÚJ;NJKH;Ú*>?IÚ?IÚJ>;Ú I7C;Ú7IJH?D=;D9OÚ7JÚ>7IÚ8;;DÚIJ;;F;:ÚJEEÚBED=Ú 7L;Ú;L;HÚ7L;Ú;NF;H?;D9;:ÚbHIJ>7D:ÚJ>;ÚJ7IJ;Ú7D:ÚCEKJ>ÚB;L;BÚEJBOÚE7A;:ÚEHÚ;L;DÚKDE7A;:ÚM?D;IÚ7H;ÚJ>;Ú;7I?;IJÚJEÚF7?HÚM?J>Ú7JÚ ?I ÚC7:;Ú7D:Ú7=;:Ú?DÚIJ7?DB;II IJ;;BÚJ7DAIÚEHÚ?DÚL;HOÚEB:ÚMEE:;DÚ87HH;BIÚJ>7JÚ?CF7HJÚB?JJB;ÚEHÚDEÚ c7LEH Ú#?D?C?P?D=ÚE7AÚ9H;7J;IÚ7ÚB;L;BÚFB7O?D=Úb;B: Ú7BBEM?D=ÚOEKÚCEH;Úc;N?8?B?JOÚ?DÚC7J9>?D=Ú OEKHÚM?D;ÚM?J>Ú:?D;IIÚ7D:ÚHEKD:D;IIÚE7JÚIF;D:ÚB?JJB;ÚEHÚDEÚJ?C;Ú?DÚE7AÚ7H;ÚE;H;7IÚM?D;IÚ7=;:Ú?DÚ E7AÚ7H;ÚCEH;ÚCEKJ> bBB?D=Ú7D:ÚLEBKFJKEKIÚ/EKÚ97DÚFB7OÚEÚ799ECF7D?;:Ú8OÚ7Ú9H;7CÚI7K9;ÚEHÚ9EC FEKD:Ú8KJJ;HÚÚICEEJ>ÚE7A 7=;:ÚH;D79>;Ú97DÚ8;ÚIK8B?C;ÚM>;DÚI;HL;:ÚM?J>Ú7ÚIBEM 9EEA;:Ú 8;;;HÚIBEM 8H7?I;:Ú:?I>;I Key 5. Alcohol

ÚM?D;IÚB;L;BÚEEBÚ?IÚ?JIÚFH?C7HOÚ:;J;HC?D7DJÚEJÚIÚ7ÚHEK=>Ú=K?:; ÚJ>;Ú >?=>;HÚJ>;Ú7B9E>EBÚ9EDJ;DJ ÚJ>;Ú;ÚM?D;ÚI;;CIÚIÚM?J>ÚEBÚ9EDJ;DJÚ?D9H;7I;IÚJ>;ÚF;H9;FJ?EDÚEEB Ú?IÚI?=D?b97DJBOÚB;IIÚM;?=>JOÚ7D:ÚJ;NJKH;:ÚEDÚJ>;ÚF7B7J;ÚJ>7DÚED;Ú EÚM?D;IÚ7D:Ú?IÚFH?D9?FB;Ú?IÚIEC;M>7JÚ?DJK?J?L;Ú/EKÚI>EKB:DJÚ9HKI>Ú7Ú=;DJB;ÚEB9;JJEÚM?J>Ú7ÚIJ?9A JE J>; H?8IÚB7C8ÚIJ;MÚ$EHÚI>EKB:ÚOEKÚC7J9>Ú7ÚB?=>J ÚI?CFB;ÚbBB;JÚEÚ7DÚ7CFBOÚJ;NJKH;:Ú #7HI7DD; (EKII7DD;Ú8B;D: ÚM>?9>ÚC?=>JÚE8B?J;H7J;ÚJ>;ÚbI>Ú*HOÚJEÚA;;FÚJ>;ÚCEKJ> M;?=>JÚ FHEbB;IÚE;ÚM?D;Ú7D:ÚÚ7IÚ7Ú7H 8;H7ÚEHÚ&?DEJ7=;Ú?IÚIK99;IIÚ7ÚC;:?KC M;?=>JÚ:?I>ÚIK9>Ú7IÚHE7IJÚ9>?9A;DÚÚH?9>Ú M?D;ÚB?A;Ú7Ú87HH;B 7=;:Ú=B?7D?9EÚF7?HIÚM;BBÚM?J>Ú7Ú;ÚM?D;IÚ7B9E>EBÚ 9EDJ;DJÚ?D9H;7I;I ÚJ>;ÚEBÚ?IÚ799;DJK7J;:Ú8OÚI7BJÚ7D:ÚF;FF;H DÚ78KD:7D9;ÚEEB?9 ÚJ>7DÚJ>;OÚ79JK 7BBOÚ7H;Ú*>?IÚ?IÚ;NJH;C;BOÚ?CFEHJ7DJÚJEÚADEM Ú8;97KI;ÚOEKÚM7DJÚJ>;ÚM?D;ÚJEÚ>7HCED?P;ÚM?J>Ú J>;Ú:?I> ÚDEJÚ9EC;Ú79HEIIÚB?A;Ú7ÚI>EJÚEÚIEC;ED;ÚFEKH;:Ú=7IEB?D;ÚEDÚJ>;ÚbH;
Ú?=>ÚB;L;BIÚE;7JÚEJÚ7BIEÚH?DA ?D=Ú7DOÚÚ*;N7IÚbL; 7B7HCÚ9>?B?Ú7BCEIJÚ7BM7OIÚB;7:IÚJEÚ>;7HJ8KHD
ÚDÚ=;D ;H7BÚJ;HCI ÚM?D;IÚM?J>ÚC;:?KCÚ7B9E>EBÚ9EDJ;DJÚÜÜÚJEÚÜÞÚF;H9;DJ Ú7D:ÚB?=>J;HÚM?D;IÚ7H;Ú;7I?;HÚ JEÚMEHAÚM?J>Ú7JÚJ>;ÚJ78B; Q Q Q

HC;:ÚM?J>ÚJ>;ÚbL;ÚM?D;ÚA;OI ÚM;Ú97DÚ8;=?DÚJEÚ:;bD;ÚFHEbB;IÚ7JÚ7H;ÚCEH;Ú;HIÚ)F7HAB?D= ÚM>?J; ÚHEI™ ÚH;: Ú7D:Ú:;II;HJÚM?D;IÚJ>7JÚF7?HÚM;BBÚM?J>Ú7L;ÚJ>;ÚFHEbB;IÚ:;I9H?8;:Ú?DÚJ>;ÚJ78B;Ú8;BEM F O O D - F R I E N D LY W I N E S SPARKLING

WHITE

ROSÉ

RED

DESSERT

ACIDIT Y

High

Balanced to high

Moderately high

Moderately high

Moderately high to high

SWEETNESS

Dry to balanced off-dry

Dry to balanced off-dry

Dry to balanced off-dry

Dry (ripe fruit, but no actual sweetness)

Balanced with the acid

TANNIN

None

None

None to very low

Balanced

None

OAK

None

None to balanced

None

Balanced

None to balanced

ALCOHOL

Low to balanced

Low to balanced

Low to balanced

Balanced

Low to balanced

C R E AT I N G PA I R I N G S T H AT W O R K

16

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