Crete [1 ed.] 1864500743

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Crete lst edition― `Apri1 2000

Published by Lonely Planet Publications P、 ′Ltd

A.C.N.005607983

192 3ur、 ″ood Rd,HawthOrn,Victorla 3122,Australia

Lone!yP:anet Orices Austra‖ a PC)Box 617,Hawthorn,VICtOria 31 22

USA 150 Linden St,(E)akland,CA 94607 UK 1 0a Spring PlaCe,London NVV5 3BH France l rue du lDahonney,7501l Paris

Photographs Many Of the irnages in this guide are avallable foriicensing frorri

Lonely Planet images. ema‖ :[email protected] au

Front cover photograph shapes and shadOws Of the early nlOrnlng outside a cafe in Loutro (Trevor Creighton)

ISBN 1 86450 074 3

text&maps O Lonely Planet 2000 phOtOs◎ phOtOgraphers as indicated 2000

Aithough the authors and Lone:yP:anet try to make the informa‐

Printed by Colorcrafl:Ltd,Hong Kong

tion as accurate as AIl rights reserved No pat of this pub‖ cation nlay be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, se,except electronlc,rlechanical,photocopying,recording or otherv of the publisher and copyright ownen

possibie,vve accept nO rSpOnSib‖ iV fOr any:。 SS,iniury Or :nconvenience suS‐

LC)NELY PLANET and the LOnely Planet10gO are traderrlarks of Lonely

using this book.

brief extracts forthe purpose of reView,without theヽ

Planet Publications Pty Ltd.

″ritten

periγ lisslon

tained by anyone

Contents― Text THE AUTHOR

6

THiS E00K FOREW(DRD

8

INTRODuCT,ON

11

FACTS ABOuT CRETE

13 32

History

.13

Econorny

Geography

.28

Population&

Chmate Ecology&Environment

28 29

Flora&Fauna

30

32 32 ¨…33

Government&Pontics .

31

People Education Cretan Art¨ …¨ Atts … .…

Time

.64

Society&Conduct Religlon

Mythology¨ Language .

¨.¨ 46

Legal Maters

…… 71 .… … 72

50

.41

FACTS FOR THE ViSiTOR Planning

… ….

Tourist Off ces

51 .52

51 Electricity

64

…

Post&Communications

56 56 58

lnternet Resources

.60

Tollets Health Ⅵ′ omen Trave‖

Books

60

Gay&Lesbian Trave‖ ers

62 63 63 63

Disabled Travellers

F‖

ms

.…

… .…

Newspapers&Magazines

Radio&TV Video Systems

.63

ers

dren

Activities

Ⅵ′ ork

Accommodation .

70

Food

71 71

Dangers&Annoyances

Special Events

70

……… …71 71

Useful C)rganisatlons

.

Public Holidays .

… .

Drinks Entertainment Spectator Sports

Shopping . .

71

ING THERE&AVVAY 86

Air(Domestlc)

.90

Land Sea

… 91

0rganlsed Tours

92

GETrlNG AROUND 99

Bus

Car&Motorcycle

. 99

103

Bicycle

.103 104 104

Hitching VValklng Boat

Local Transport (:)rganlsed Tours

106

HAN:A Kydonia Prov!nce ¨¨ Hanla .. Agia Marina Platanias

Ceranl

ILロロロ

８ ９ ９     ９

「

Air(lnternatlonal)

72 72 74 75 76 77

６ ８

GE・ 『

…

…64

.

Business Hours

 

Photography&Video

64 ..

Senior Trave‖ ers Travel with Ch‖

64 64

４ ４ ８ ８

Customs

VVeights&Measures Laundry

４ ８

53

２ ８

Visas&Documents AAoney

43 45

Akrotiri Peninsula

¨¨¨.106

106 119 119 119

¨¨¨¨¨

Stavros

Provlnce

Kalathas

Georgioupolis

Souda Bay

Souda

Kalives

Around Ka‖ ves

…

Vamos

Around Souda

1

,P,

Apokoronas

2 Contents― Text Around Vamos ¨¨ _

Loutro¨ ..

Vrisses…

Agia Roumeli

126 126 Askifou 127 lmbЮ s Gorge .._ 127 Sfakia Province ..¨ ........... 127 Omalos… …… ……… 128 Samaria Gorge _¨ ... 129 Hora Sfakion. . ………… 130 .… ….… ……… .… …………… .…

.

.132

133

Kaste‖

i―

Klssamos_

Se!ino Province ¨¨¨..¨ ..¨ .¨ .134 5ougia .¨ . … … . 134

Kissamos The Rodhopou Peninsula Ko‖ mbari

Around Sougia Paleohora

Falassarna …. . Gramvousa Peninsula

…

135 ¨

. 135

Around Kaste‖

Around Paleohora… …….… ……138 Gavdos lsland ...… . … …139 Kissanlos Province¨ ¨.¨ ......140

Elafonisi

Rethymno…

Panornlo

Around Spih

EPiskopl ..

Bali

Frangokaste‖ o

………………… 131

.…

i―

…

……………… .

Moni Hrysoskalitissas

Ennia Horia

……

. _ .

RETHYMNO) .

..

.

. .

. .¨

ArgiЮ upo‖ s .

AAargarites

Amar:Provlnce Amari Va‖ ey

Anogia . . . . … Around Anogia … …

Mt Psiloritis

Agios Vasiieios

165 165 165 167 168

Spili To Plakias

.

¨……………

Plakias .… ………

Around Plakias Agia Ca‖ ni …

Moni Arkadiou Mylopotamos Province。 .....161 SPili

lRAKL10

170

¨ _ ¨ Knossos ._. .

AAatala

Ammoudara…

Matala .… ………

South Central :rak:io Region ¨.¨ ...............189

Kanlalari

Kalamaki

.196

ヽ /ori

Kommos…

‥」97

lraklio

….

. 194

Centほ !lraklio

¨■95

Zaros . ….. .… .… ……………■99 Arhanes … …… … … 200 Around Arhanes ……………. 200

Around

_ _ _

Gortyn …………

189 189 189

Phaestos ¨.¨ _

191

Agia Triada…

193

Mitts _ ..

Region.............................…

_196

…… Lendas ¨¨.¨ 。 、 no Viannos ′ Keratokanlbos Arvi… ……………

197

North‐ Eastern Coast..........201

Malia ¨………….… .… ….… ……………201

. 197

Palace(:)f Malia

198 ‥■98

Hersonlssos.¨

.…

.…

202 ……………………203

205

LASSITHI Agios Nikolaos ……….… ….… ……205 Kritsa _ ……………………212 Around Kritsa . ..… ………… 213 。 ′ 、 ncient Lato . . ..213

Gournia ………… ……

. 214

………… …214

AAoni Faneronlenis Spinalonga Peninsula

Spinalonga lsland .

199

.…

214

Vai

……¨………………….… …. .224 Zakros… …….… ….… …… ……….224 Zakros Palace .… .… ….… …..224 Kato Zakros ……………………… 226

Dikteon Cave Tzermiado. . Agios Ceorgios Pshyro .… …... North― Eastern

South iCloast...¨

Xerokambos .

Coast¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨¨ .

Sitia ………………… Palekastro _ .¨ .

_ .

. ……………215

Elounda ……………. .

215

Around Palekastro Moni Toplou

..¨ ...¨ .......…

226

. .… 226

1erapetra …….… …………………………227 Around lerapetra ……. … 229 Mirtos… ………………………… ……229

LANGUAGE

231

GLOSSARY

237

Contents― ■ext 3 IND■ X Text

252 .。

...¨

.252

MAP L■ GEND

mlTRiC CONVERS10N

Boxed Text ¨¨¨。 ,...¨

.。

.....¨

。 .255

back ins,de back cover

lContents―

Maps

HANIA Hania Region .

¨¨¨…112

Paleohora .¨

¨137

Palace of Malia ……………

¨203

RETHVMNO Rethyrnno Region .¨ ¨ ¨¨¨.… 148

Rethynlno .¨

.¨ "… …

¨¨¨¨¨¨`.150

1RAKLЮ lrak‖ o

Region .¨ ………¨

o…

¨……………¨ Palace of l(nossos .… … :鯰 k‖

…171 ¨474 ¨484

Go蔵 yn …………¨… ¨¨¨¨¨.190 Phaestos . _¨ .¨ ¨ …….¨ ¨…192 Agia Triada… … …¨ ¨¨¨¨¨■93

LASSITHl Lassithi Region .......

Agios Nlkolaos ¨¨…

¨¨.206 ¨¨.208

Sitia

………………¨ ¨.¨ ¨……220 ¨¨ ¨¨¨.¨ …225

Zakros Palace.¨

4

lerapetra .....

¨228

Contents―

CRETE MAPIND■ X

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Maps 5

一  ■

The Author Jeanne lC)‖ ver Born in New Jersey,∪ SA,Jeanne spent her childhOOd rnulling over

‐

the Nevv York 「inles travei section and Piotting her future VOyageS.She received a BA in English and then a law degree but herlegal practice was interrupted by ever―

nnore‐

frequent trips tO

Central and South Annerica, Europe,the Middle East,Africa and Asia.She fina‖ y settled in France to、 ″ork as a trave!writen Jeanne

has contributed to Lone!y Planet's A4ed′ terranean fυ ″ ορe and Faster″ [υ ο 「 ′e guides and、 ″rote the lst edition of C′ οatfa.She

Can be fOund in CyberSpaCe ati‐ 0‖ [email protected]

FRO)M THE AUTH(0)R I WOuld like tO thank Toula Chryssanthopoulou of the Creek Na― tional Tourisrll C)青 ice(EOT)in Athens for her valuab!e assistance_ Haris Kakoulakis of the EOT office in lraklion provided an extra‐

ordinary amount of advice and assistance that greatly aided the reSearCh of this book. :n iraklion, Motor(]:ub and Prince Travei helped with rny transpOrtation arrangernents. ヽ likos Petrakis and Georgia Stavrakaki of Sitia went out of their vvay to show rne the postolis Kirnalis and′ へntonia Karandinou made Lassithi region:メ ヽ me fee!at home in Sitia.Rony Oren and Dimitri Petridis were ′ ヽ へ Onderul hosts in Bali as was Eftihis Konstadinitis in Hania and ハ Aanos Dermitzakis in lerapetra.A warrn thanks to」 ohanne(3au―

dreau for herintroduction to Argiroupo‖

s.

ln lNice l would llke to thank」 eanette Macdonald and Jennifer Ones for the;r helP and especially Frederic Tiglio for his unstint― 」

ingl SuppOrt.ThankS a:So to nly patient editors at Lonely Planet

Katie Cody and Darren O'Conne‖

6

This Book From the pub:isher The lst editiOn Of Crere was produced in the AAelbourne office

and was coordinated by Darren O'Connell(editorial)and Heath cOmrie(mapPing and design). Susannah Farfor, Fiona Meiers, Ada Cheung and Tony I)aVid50n aSSiStedヽ

″ith

editlng and prOOf‐

ettree, Shahara Ahmed, ing, and YvOnne BIschofberger, Ann 」 」 oelene Kowalski,Celiaヽ VOOd and Verity Campbell assisted with rnapping. Rachel imeson, Anna Judd and Maree Stytes assisted 、 ″ith layOut.Thanks also to Tim Uden and PaullDawson for Quark support.

￨￨lustrations were supplied by Matt King,Quentin Frayne pre―

Pared the Language section, and the cover Was deSigned by Jarnieson Giross.Photographs Were Supplied by Flona Croyden at atie Lonely Planet :,nageS SpeCial thanks to Rachel imeson, iく

Cody,Tony Davidson and Verity Campbe‖ for their guidance.

7

Foreword ABOUT LONELY PLANET GUIDEB00KS The story begins with a ciassic travel adventure: Tony and Maureen VVheeler's1972 1ourney across Europe and Asia to Aus― tralia tJsefullnfornlatiOn about the Overland trail did not exist at

that tinle,so Tony and Maureen published the first Lonely Planet guideboOk tO rneet a growing need FrOrn a kitChen table, then frOm a tiny office in Melbourne (Australia)′ L()nely Planet has becorne the largest independent travel publisher in the world, an internati()nal cornpany with offices in Melbourne,()akland (tJSA). London (t」 K)and Paris

(France)

Today Lonely Planet guidebooks cOver the globe.There is an ever‐

growing iist of bOOks and there's infOrmatiOn in a variety of

forms and media.Sorne things haven't changed The rnain airn is st‖ l

to help make it pOssible for adventurOus trave‖

ers to get out

there― tO explore and better understand the world At Lonely Planet we believe trave‖ ers can nlake a positive cOn― tribution to the cOuntries they visit― if they respect their host COrnrrlunitieS and Spend their mloney vvisely. Since 1986 a per―

Centage of the incOnne frorn each boOk has been dOnated tO aid projects and human rights camPaigns. U;IPdlates Lonely Planet thoroughly updates each guidebook as often as pOssible.This usua‖ y means there are around t、 ″o years between editiOns′ althOugh for rnore unusual or rnore stable des― tinations the gaP Can be longer([heck the imprint page(fo‖ owing

the colour rTlap at the beginning of the book)for publication dates Between editions up― tO― date infornlati()n is avallable in two free neWSletters― the paper ρノ iaノ 々 and emali Cο ′ a′ 7et ア ηet(to SubSCribe′ contact any Lonely Planet office)― and on our VVeb site at www lonelyplanet cOrl The υρgrade∫ section of the VVeb site covers a nurnber of irnpOrtant and volat‖

e destinatiOns and

iS regularly updated by Lonely Planet authOrs Sc00ρ

COVers

neWS and Current affairS releVant to trave‖ ers And, lastly,the T′,0″ ′ ,7″ ee

ЧnVerified′

bulletin b()ard and PO∫ tcar(グ s section of the site carry but fasclnating, reports frOnl travellers

Correspondence The process of creating new editions begins With the letters,pOstcards and ema‖

s received frorn trave‖ ers.This

correspondence often includes suggestions, critlcisiris and corn―

nlents about the current editions

lnterestingl excerpts are

inlmediately passed On via newsletters and the VVeb site′ and every― thing goes to our authors to be verified when they're researching on the road ヽ /Ve're keen tO get n10re feedback from organisati()ns or individuals whO represent cornnlunities visited by trave‖ e rs

Loneiy Pianet gathers inね ‖ndion

breveγ ‐

one、 ″hoヽ curious

about the pianet― and esFttCia‖ y br thOSeヽ ″hO eXP:OFe it

firSt=hand.ThFOugh gvidebooks,Phrase‐ boL adivlサ guid“

,

::Lrature′

Foreword 9 Research Authors airn to gather sufficient practicalinforrnation to enable travellers to make informed chc)ices and to nlake the meChaniCS Of a 10urney run SmOOthlン They a:SO reSearCh hiStOri‐ cal and cultural background to help enrich the travel experience and a!￨。 w travel!ers to understand and respond appropriately to culturai and environrnentalissues Authors don't stay in every hotel because that wou!d rnean spendingl a c()uple of months in each nlediurn―

sized city and,nc),

they donit eat at every restaurant because that would rnean stretching belts beyond capacity.They do visit hotels and restau―

rants to check standards and prices, but feedback based On readers'direct experiences can be very helpful.

Many of our authors work undercove4 others aren't so secre―

tive. None of thern accept freebies in exchange for positive nd none of our guidebooks contain any advertising. vvrite― ups.メヽ Production Authors submit their raw manuscriptS and maps to offices in Austrana,USA,UK or France.Editors and caltographers ―ail experienced travellers thernse!、 ′ es― then begin the process Of assenlbling the pieces.VVhen the book fina‖ y hits the shops′ sorne things are already out of date, we start getting feedback frOrn readers and the process begins again…

WARNING&REQUEST Things change― prices go upr schedules change,good places go bad and bad Places go bank‐ rupt― nothing stays the sarne.So,if you find things better or vvorse,recent!y opened or10ng since closed,please tell us and help nlake the next editiく

genuinely value alithe feedback we receive.Julie｀

)n even nllore accurate and useful.VVe

loung coo.rdlnates a welltrave‖ ed team that γ

reads and acknowledges every lettet postcard and email and ensures that eVery nlorsel ofin― formation finds its way to the appropriate authors,editors and cartographers for verification.

Everyone who、 ″rites to us willfind their nanne in the next edition of the appropriate guide― b。 。k.They

erly printed newsletter, will also receive the latest issue Of P′ aret Ta′ 々 `Our quan‐

Or cο ′ ηet,Our monthly email newsletteに Subscriptions to both ne、 ″sletters are free.The very

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For news,views and updates see our Web site:www.:one!yp!anet.com

′ ι

10 Foreword

HOW TO uSE A LONILY PLANET GU:DIB00K The beSt Way tO use a Lonely Planet guideb00k is any、 ″ay yOu choose.At Lonely Planet we believe the nlost nlenlorable travel experiences are often thO.se that are unexpected,and the finest

diSCOVerieS are thOSe yOu rnake yourself (3uidebooks are nOt intended tO be used as if they prOvide a detailed set of infa‖

ible

instructions!

COntents All Lonely Planet guidebooks fO‖ o、 へ ′roughly the sarγ ,e fOrmat.The Facts aboutthe[)estination chapters or sections give baCkgrOund infOrnlatiOn ranging frOrn history to vveather Facts for the visitor gives practical infornnation On issues like visas and

health.Getting There&′ へ、 へ ′ ay gives a brief starting point for re― SearChing traVel tO and frOm the destination. Getting Around gives an overvievv of the transport options when you arrive. The peculiar denlands Of each destinatiOn determine how sub― Sequent chapters are brOken uP,but sorne things rernain constant VVe always start with background,then proceed tO sights,places to stay,places to eat,entertainnnent,getting there and away.and getting around infOrmation― in that orden Heading iHierarChy Lonely Planet headings are used in a strict hierarChiCal StruCture that Can be ViSualiSed as a set of Russian

dolis.Each heading(and its fOllowing text)is encOnlpassed by any preceding heading that is higher()n the hierarchical ladden

Entry Points we do not assume guidebooks will be read from beginning to end,but that people、 ″‖l diP into them.The tradi― tional entry pOints are the list of contents and the index. ln additioni hOweveL sOrne books have a cornplete list of rnaps and an index nlap i‖ ustrating map cOverage.

‐ There nlay alsO be a cO10ur map that shows highlights 「 hese highlightS are dealt With in greater detail in the Facts fOr the ′ ヽ iSitOr chaptet along with planning questiOns and suggested itin―

eraries Each chapter covering a geographical region usually beginS With a 10CatOr nlap and anOtheriiSt Of highlights(Dnce you find sornething Of interestin a list of highlights,turn to the index.

Maps MapS play a Crucial role in Lonely Planet guideboOks and inClude a huge am(Ount OfinfOrnlation.A legend is printed on the back page VVe seek to have cornplete cOnsistency bet、

″een maps

a

imp‖es da‖ on we can■ ot

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eveげ g∞dP:凛 ExdusiO■ does not ,「19,,特 Sar"ソ impし

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and text,and to have every important place in the text captured

給asol=""y=百we might

on a nnap Map key numbers usua‖ y start in the top left corner

exc:ude a place_ SOmttmeS itiS Simpリ

happЮ p‖ ate to encou“ a`ge an inf:ux(of tにve‖ er.

Introduction Crctans say that visitors to thcir island cry twice― first、 vhcn thcy conne and thcn、 vhcn

lhnlous Salllaria Gorgc is Europe's longcst, and an cnduring attractiOn lor hikcrs.HOw―

thcy lcavc ()verdevelopnlent along the

ever, there arc lllally kilollletres of renlotc

northcrn coast can lllakc a poor flrst illlpres―

nloし intain

sion butit doesn't takc long to fali tlnder the

1lerds and donkc)′ S C｀ rcte's stunning llatural bcauty is cqualled

spcll ol‐

(〕

rcece's largcst and nlost southerly

island. 11lc sun― drcncllcd south coast is a paradisc o「 long sandy beaches and isolated

only by thc richilcss of a culttlre that spans

nnincnniunis.For thc ancient Greeks,Crete ′ 、 、 as thc foundatiolぅ o「 their elaboratc inyth― ology Lcgcnd holds thatthe God Z´ eus was vitllin thc island's caves. born a1ld raised 、 Myths of the ヽ4inotaur, Daedalus and the

coves Malor urban centrcs such as lraklio, Rcthynlno,and Hania arc、 vithin casy rcacll Of crO、

trails uscd only by goats, shcp―

.dcd bcachcs, but tranquillity is not

∼

ア ai Beach contains hard to lind ln the east,｀ 、 Europc's only paliri lorcsti Elafonisi lslct in

Labyrinth cmcrgcd lrolll Crete, pcrhaps in― ヽ4inoan civilisation

the west is ncarly undcvcloped, Fralngo―

sipircd b、 thc gloriotls

kastcllo 13cach in thc south sccs fcw visitors.

that oncc rulcd thc Acgcan. Knossos is the vn archaeological site but a pronu_ best kn。 、

In the island's rugged interior,the salty air alld barren coastal cliflis givc、 vay to bracing

sion of cvocative ruins scattcrcd throughout

inountain brcczcs and stccp gorgcs blan― keted with■ o、 vers and arolllatic herbs.Thc

thc isiand conJure up this lllysterious civili―

sation that vanished ovcr 3000 years ago

CRETE LOCAT(D)R M=ce ′・ ｐ

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く 〉 こ く

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｀ や

0

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ゝ

C E R.

Thessaly

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10NIAN

ゝ ´ SPK)RADES

TURKEY

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AECF`″ SE4 rο ″ ′ス″

SEA

、 ヽ ｀ 、)

rヽ

9 t,

`｀ きヽ ￨￨‐ lp.￨

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「

慟 ヽ

:￨￨￨‐

-

OF CPFFE S

4

11

・ ′

12 :ntroduction

｀ct the past and present coexist easily in lζ

profound attachrnent to the songs,dances

Crcte.Only klomct“s away'om ancient

and CuiSine that fOrged thcir identity.As a

temples and palaces,coastal cities ente■ ain several inilliOn tOurists each ycar with lux_

practical peOple, Cretans have no trOuble

unOuS reSOrtS and Si2Zling nightlifb. S廿 01l thOu』 the Old tOWnS Of Hania and

Rethymno whee 17th― centuウ ′ Venetial man― sions have been tumed intO elegant hotcls and res● wants.Drive inb thc cOuntW ald yOu'1l Sha・ e the rOad with tractors,BIMWs, pickup titlcks and mules.In the urban centres,

stylish Cretans run shops and businesses while,in the interior,the back‐ breaking work

of shepherding,。 live growing,and farnling continues as it has for centuries.

(1)retans have a uniquc ability to recon―

serving up international dance music in the discos and international food in the tourist restaurants, but their own tastes lie else―

where.At traditional feasts and、 veddings, Cretans still sing″ α″r′ ″α′las,their age_01d songs oflove and betrayal,and stanlp their feet to a vigOrOus, leaping lolk dance ac― conlpanied by a lyre. Crete is unique in the sheer variety Ofex―

periences packed into a relatively slnall space. Laze on the beach, hike through a gorge,poke arOund an archaeological site, take a harbourside walk at sunset,spend an

cile tradition with mOdernity.Their fer―

evening listening to Cretan sOngs in a tav‐

ocious struggles 10r independence frOrn foreign occupiers ― Rornans, ヽienetians, Turks and Gennans― have let them with a

erna. Maybe )′

Ou won't cry when you

leave; yOu'1l be too busy planning yOur next trip back.

Facts about Crete HISTORY

thus expand their trade opportunities. The

From ancient Minoan palaces and Roman

population increased and vibrant cornrnercial

cities to spectacularlByzantine churches and ｀enetian fo■ lresses, the legacy of Crete's long and colourful history is everywhere.

centres enlerged in the eastern part ofthe is‐ land, 、 vell placed to trade with the eastern ヽ4editerranean.Po■ elら r and goldヽ vorking be‐

ing the carne inOre sophisticated loreshado、 ′

Stone Age

subsequent great achievements of Minoan

Although the island nlay have been inhabit‐ ed since the lPalaeolithic period,the oldest ′ evidencc of human habitation、 へ as lound at

alt.The island prospered iom trade,olive― gro、 ving,livestock‐ rearing,imported silver

Knossos,and dttcs to whtt is known as the pre‐ pottely period(6100‐ 5700 BC).

Acgeal,そ md ivory and tin■ om the Near East.

,01n the Cyclades, gO!d■ om thc North The Minoan civilisation reached its peak during the Middle period, also called the C)ld Palace or Protopalatial period.Around 2000 BC〕 the large palace conlplexes of

Little is kno、 vn aboutthese early inhabit‐

ants of Crete except that they survived by hunting and ishing and engaged in ances‐ tor、 vorship.Evidence is also sketchy about the people vν ho inhabited Crete during the Neolithic period(5700‐ 2800 BC).The ear‐ liest lヽ Jeolithic people lived in caves or rOugh stone,mud or、 vood houses and、 vor―

Iく

nossos,Phaestos,Malia,and Zakros were

ith Neolithic built,nlarking a sharp break、 ′ village lifc.(:〕 rcte is l)elieved to have been

governed by local rulers with po、 ver and v′ ealth concentrated at Iく nossos. Society

was organised on hicrarchical lines and

shipped female fertility goddesses.They 、 vere hunter― gatherers who also farined,

contained a large lpopulation of slaves.

The architectural advances were accom‐

raised livestock and nlade primitive pottery. In the late Tヾ eolithic period,trade routes

panied by great strides in po■

el)′

rnaking.

Kamares vases,named aner the Kamarcs

developed between Crete and the Cyclades, Egypt and the Near East.

cave wherc they were nrst produced,mani_ tSted hiま ly adVmCed a SmShip The in‐ vhite spirals on a black tricate red or 、

The Minoans Around 3000 BC,Indo‐ European nligrants intrOduCed the prOCeSSing Of brOnZe(an

background were extraordinarily elegant and valls Of the `eggshell_1■ 7are, were the thin 、 reinarkably durable.The vases were used for baner as、vell as hOrne and ceremonial use.

al10y Of COpper and tin)int。 (]reeCe. SO began three rernarkable civilisations: the ycladic, ヽ4inoan and Mycenaean. T`ict, it was the Minoans who assumed the starring

The■ rst

([〕

Cretan script also einerged dur‐

isttion(named a■ er King Minos)was the

ing this period.At irst highly pictorial,the writing gradually transforined iom the rep‐ reSentatiOnS Of natura1 0Ц eCtS tO mOre ab‐

irst advanced civilisation to emergc in Eur―

stract igures that resenlbled iEgyptian

Ope,drawing its inspiration iom two great Middle Eastern civilisationsi the Meso―

hieroglyphiCS.The mOSt famOuS eX211lple iS

role in prehistoric Crete.´ rhe Minoan civil―

the Phaestos I)isc dated to around 1700 1BC. Sorne、vhat later, a syllable‐ based script enlerged consisting of70 1inear signs、 vhich

potarnian and iEgyptian_Archacologists div‐

ide the ヽ4inoan civilisation into threc phases: Early(3400‐ 2100 BC), Middle (2100‐

became known as Linear´ L

1580 BC)and Late(1580-1200 BC).

Like the carlier

hieroglyphics,it has not yet been decipher‐ 、 vas ed, but archacologists believe that it used to docurnenttradc transactions and the cOntents OfrOyal storeroorlls,rather than to express abstract concepts.

Many aspects of Tヽ leolithic line endured during the lEarly period, but the advent of

brOnze,which wasimpOned ioin cyprus,al― ′ lo、 へ ed the lVIinoans to build better boats and

13

14 Facts about Crete―

History

´ he Middle period canle to an end、 vith

Chronology of』naior Events 6000 BC

3000 BC

I｀

the sudden dcstruction of the Minoan

Neolithic age

Zakrosin 1700 BC.Although there is some

Crete by cave― dvvellers

that the destruction、 vas caused by the erup_

Pre‐

tion ofa volcano on nearby SantOrini which caused a massive eaithquake.・ Theヽ 4inoans

Palatia!Period

Another migratiOn from the coast of Asia Aハ inor and devel‐

OPment Of CraiS and ieWe‖ ery

2000 BC

Proto‐ palatia:Period

First palaces built in Knossos,

Phaestos,Malia and ZakrOs

1700 BC

67 BC

395 AD 1204 1363

inyth ofthe Cretan Labyrinth. ´ 「 he excavation of Knossos begun by Sir Arthur Evans in 1900(see boxed text)un‐

Minoan palaces destroyed Post‐

covered nlany renlnants ofヽ

palatiai periOd

Roman Rule Romans cOnquer Crete making

cOifnured giossy black locks.Proud,gracc_

Go織 yn new capital Roman Empire splits with Crete ruled by Byzantium Byzantine Enlpire Byzantine prince Alexios sells Crete to Venice

lrak1lo fa‖ s

1941

ful and uninhibited,these、 vOrnen had hour― ′ glass ifigures and、 へ ere dressed in stylish go、

vns that revealed perfectly shaped

breasts.´ 「 he bronze‐ skinned rnen、 vcre tall,

with tiny waists,narrO、 v hips,brOad shoul―

ders and muscular thighs and biceps;the children werc slilτ l and lithe. to cn」

Oy theinselves. They played board

ganles, boxed and wrestled, played leap‐ lrog over bulis and Ovcr Onc another, and

to the Turks leaving

perfornlcd bold acrobatic feats.´

spreads to Crete Crete given to Egypt

sOcracy Or sea_based pO、

ExPlosion at Arkadiou Mon―

hc Minoan

vcr.´ rrade、vith

the

′ eastern Mediterranean、、 as boorning helped

by Minoan colonies in the Acgean and in Asia ヽ4inor. ヽ4inoan pottery, textiles and

!ndependence

Creece and Crete officia‖

I・

dancing portrayed in the nrescoes was fam_ ous throughout ancient Greece. ヽ4inoans had goOd reason to be happy. Thcir state had becomc a po、 verful thalas―

Ouoman Empire

agricultural produce found rcady nlarkets

throughOut the Cyciadcs as well as in y

Egypt,Syria and possibly Sicily.According

unlted

to ancicnt(〕 rcek historians, Iく ing

Battle Of Crete results in Ger―

、 vas the head ofthis powerfui naval empire and pronloted the expansiOn Ofヽ 4inOan intercsts. Historians no、 v believe that the nanlc Minos、 vas a royal title that prObably

man occupation

1945

pict white― skinned、 vOrnen with elabOrately

The Minoans also seemed tO know how

Venetian Empire

Turkish rule endsi Crete ruled by Prlnce CeOrge

1913

4inoan socicty.

10ured ieSCOeS(nOW On VieW in

the ArchaeologicallMuseum of lraklio)de―

astery

1898

Brightly C。

Dorian colonists replace Myce― naeans as lCrete's new masters

Greek VVar of lndependence

1830 1866

apartments, reception halis, storeroonls, workshops,living quarters lor staff and an ´ advanced drainage systcm. 「 he cOrnplex design of thc palaces iater gave rise tc)the

Crete under C)ttoman rule

1821

rebuilt the palaces to a more cOnlplex dc‐ sign、 vith nlultiple stOreys,sumptuOus rOyal

Neo‐ pa:atial period

St Titus revolution challenges Venetian rule

1669

disagreement,rnOst archae。 10gists believe

C)ld Minoan Palaces destroyed in earthquakei new palaces built

1450 BC l100 BC

palaces of Knossos, :Phaestos, Malia and

Migration fronn the coast of Asia Minor and settlement of

Liberation 凸

凸

applied to allヽ 4inoan rulers.

Minos

Facts about Crete― History 15

Minoan cuiture came to an abrupt halt

Discovering the Minoans Sir Arthur Evans was an archaeo!ogist,

around 1450 1BC〕 in a nlystcry that has not yet been fヽ 11ly unravelled. In a great cata―

civilisation Minoan after King Minos, the

clysnl around 1400 BC the palaccs(cxcept Knossos)and numcrous smaller settlements 、 ´ snlashed to bits and burned. ^/ere rhis,t00,rnay have been caused by the eruption of a volcano in nearby Santorini,

leader of a great naval power 、 、 ′ hose capital was Knossos.Although crit―

one vulcanologists believe、 vas more cata‐ clysnlic than any on record.′「 hey theorise

journalist and adventurer vvho began a dig at Knossos upon a hunchi he S00n uncov―

ered the remains of an immense palace dating from 1700 BC: Evans narned the legendar)′

icised for an overly inlaginative renovation of the site,Evans'rebuilt colurnns and sup―

that the fa11-out of volcanic ash from the blast nlay have caused a succcssion of crop failurcs― 、 vith resulting social unrcst.C)thcr

ports undoubtedly nlake the palace more visitor― friendly Sir VValter Evans spent

archaeologists belicve that the danlage、 vas

about a quarter rnillion pounds of his per―

caused by the invading Mycenacans eager

sonalfortune over 30 years to unearth the leWe‖ ery′ pOttery,religiOuS ObleCtS and frescoes that depict Minoan society Most Of the treaSured ObleCtS are On diSPlay in

to grab the Minoans'inaritiine cornmercc. やVhether theヽ 4ycenacans cause(l the catas―

the Archaeological Museunl in lraklio_

凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 淵 凸 ・ 「 he lVlinoans、 vere not given to building co10ssal tenlples or religious statuary.His― torians have concluded that their spiritual line、 vas organised around the、 vorship of a

Mothcr(3oddess―

trophe or rnerely proited from it,it is clear that their presence on the island closcly co― incidcd・ 、′ ith the destruction of the palaces.

Mycenaean(Civilisation ´ I｀

he

lyCenaean CiViliSatiOn (1900-1100

BIC), 、hich reached its peak between 1500 ∼ and 1200 BC,、 vas the nrst great civilisation

on the Greek mainiand.Named a■ erthe

an―

cient city lof Mycenae, vν herc thc Gcr:1lan

o■ en represented、 vith snakes or lions,thc Mothcr Goddess、 vas the

archac010gist Hcinrich Schliennann imadc his celcbratcd llnds in 1876, it is also

deity― in― chief、vith rnale gods clearly subor―

kno、 n as the Achaean civilisation a■ cr the

dinatc.・ 「 he double― axe

lndo‐ :European branch of migrants、

symbol that appears

∼

vho had

in frescoes and on the palace、 valis ofIく nos‐

settled on mainland (〕 reece and absorbed

sos、 'as a sacred symbo1 lor the Minoans. ∼ Called`labrys',it、 vas the origin ofthe、 vord

inany aspects of Minoan culture

vhich latcr(3recks associated labyrinth, 、

city wals seems to indicate rclative pcace under some lorm of central authoriり ,My―

with Knossos Other religious symbols that iequently appcar inヽ 4inoan an include the lllythical grifin bird, and igures、 vith a

Unlike Minoan society,、 vhere the lack of

cenaean civilis江 lon was characterised by in― dependent city‐ statcs such as Corinth,Pylos,

hulllan body and an animal head. It is also

Tiryns and,thc inost powerful of thein all,

assulmed that thcヽ4inoans worshipped the

Mycenae These were ruled by kings、 vho

dead and believcd in solllc fornl ofa■

inhabited palaces encloscd、 ′ ithin nlassive ′ 、 へ alis on easily dcfensible hilltops. The ヽ4ycenacans' most irnpressive

V/hether or not related to thc v′

er― life

orship of

a ヽ4other C,oddcss, wonlcn apparcntly cnJOyed a high degree of freedonl and

legacy is rnagnillcent goldJC｀

autonolmy inヽ 4inoan society.Although the

nalmcnts, the best of、 vhich can be seen in the Nationa1 2へ rchaeological ヽ4useu:Υl in

evidence for a lllatriarchal society′ is scanty,

linoan a shows women participating in gaines,hunting,and all public and religious

Vellery and or―

Athens Thc Mycenaeans、 vrote

in、 vhat is

called Linear B(an early brm of Greek un―

festivals.It、 vas not until the later invasions

related to the Linear A of Crete).Clay

by thc Dorians that women were con―

tablets inscribed、vith the script havc bccn found at the palace of lく nossos prOviding

dclllncd to a subordinate role.

L“_1…

. _

16 Facts about Crete―

History

strong evidence of Mycenaean occupation

retred to as Greece's`dark age'_It would

of the isiand.「 heir cO10nisatiOn Of Crete

be unfairto disrniss the Dorians comp!etely;

I｀

lasted iom 1400-1100 BC and becamc

they broughtiron with them and dcve10ped

known as the Postpalatial or Mycenaean period. Although Knossos probably re―

a new style ofpottc■ /,decorated、 vith strik― ing geornetrical designs― although art his―

tained its position as capital ofthe island,its

torians still disagrec as to 、 vhether the [)orians mercly copied the designs per― fected by lonians in Attica. Thc iDorians

rulCrS Were nOW Su● eCt tO thC hOuSC Of ´ Atreus in thc Peloponnese. 「 he Minoan cretans eitherlen the isiand or hid in the in_ terior、 vhile the Mycenacans founded new

WOrShipped male gOdS inStead Ofた

liけ

goddesses and adopted the Mycenaean gods of Poseidon, Zeus and Apoilo, paving the

cities such as Lappa(Argiroupolis),Kydo‐ nia(Hania),and POlyrrinia. 1｀ he econorny of the isiand stayed mOre

way for the laterく]reek religious pantheon.

or less the sanle,stili based upon the cxport

system ofCrete and divided the society intO

of local products,but thc inne arts fell int。

three classes:nree citizcns、 vh。 。、 vncd prop_

decline.()nly the lllanufacture Of weapOns ■Ourished, renecting the ne、 ′rnilitaristic

erty and enjoyed political liberty;′ ′ ο′ ε ブ `′ 、hich includcd land― holding peasants,rner― chants and seanlen;and slaves.´ hc mOnar_

spirit that the M:ycenaeans broughtto(Crete.

´ 「 he Mycenacans also replaced wOrship of the Mother Goddess with nev′ (3rcek gods

such as Zeus,Hera,and Athcna. Myccnacan influence stretched further than Crete:the city‐ states banded together

to detat Troy(1lium)around the 12th cen― tury lB(〕

,

^′

「 chical systenl of govcrnrncnt was replaced by a rudirnentary democracy.Ruling coin‐ mittees called.々 οs″ ,ο ′、 vere elected by lrec citizcns and set policy.Thcy wcrc guided by a Council of E;lders and answered to an As― sembly Of fiee citizens.

By about 800 BC, local agriculture and

in order to protect their trade rOutes

to the Black Sea.According to Homer,Cre‐ tan troops participated in the cOnquest Of ´ T'roy under their ieader ldomeneos. he ・ ′ rOり an｀ ん ar rnarked the high pOint OfMyce― naean power; weakened by interllal strife I｀

I｀

they、

′ 「 he [)orians reorganised the pOlitical

^/ere no rnatch for theヽ

varlike I)。 rians

animal husbandry had beconle productive enough to trigger a resurnption of rnaritiine

trading.New Greek colonies were estab― lished in north Aiica,Italy,Sicily,southern France and southern Spain.´「 he ne、 ′em‐ phasis On nlaritime trading and colonial ex‐

who ovcrran their cities_

pansion favoured Crete which tOOk a

Dorian Crete The origins ofthe Dorians remain uncenain.

pronlinent role in thc new (]rcek Enlpire. ´ he peoplc ofthe various city‐ statcs were uniIIed by the developrnent of a(Greck al‐

Thcy arc gcnerally thought to have cOme lhern Macedonia, but some 'oin historians Epiros orargue no■ that althOugh they ar_

phabet(Of PhOeniCian Origin, thOugh the Greeks introduced vowels),thc vcrses of HOmer(WhiCh Cretted a SenSe Of a Shared

rived lrorn there,they had been driven Out Of [)oris,in central(〕 reece,by theヽ 4ycenaeans. ・ rhe I)。 rians senled irst in the Pelopon_

Mycenaean past),the establishment Of the 01ympic Games(which brought allthe ciけ ― StateS tOgether).The Setting up Of Central

I｀

nese,but soon fanned out Over rnuch Ofthe

sanctuaries such as Delphi(a neutral meet―

mainiand,razing the city― states and enslav‐ ing the inhabitants. I)espitc flerce resist‐

ing grOund 10r liVely negOtiatiOnS),gaVe 〈retans, lor the irst tirne, a sense Of na_

ance,they conquered Crete arOund l100:BC

Cretans or truc(〕 retans retreated to the hills

tional identity as Grecks. ヽ4ost city― states 、 verc built tO a sinlllar plan,with a fonined acrop。 1ls(high city)at the highest point.「 Fhe acropolis contained

and thus preserved thcir culture.

thc cities' tenlples and treasury and alsO

causing nlany of the inhabitants to flee to

Asia Mino■ Others, known as Eteo‐ ´ 「 he Dorians brought a trauinatic brcak 、′ ith the past;the next 400 ycars are o■ en

[〕

served as a ren』 ge during invasions.()utsidc

the aCrOpoliS WaS the agOra(market),a

Facts about Crete― HistOry 17

bustling corllrncrcial quanet and beyOnd it

city― state

the reSidential areas.RethymnO,P。

Cretan squabbles and piracy f10urished.

lyrrinia,

Kydonia(Hania), Falassarna, Gortyn, Phaestos and Lato、 vere built according tO

of Sparta involved thenlselves in

Mean、′ hile Rome、 vas einerging as a great po、 ver.

the neW defenSive style but Knossos was never lortined.

Roman Rule

The 6th― ccntury― BC Laws of Gortyn, 10und atthC Cnd Ofthe 19th century AI)at

V/hile Alexander the Grcat、 vas forging his Vast empire in the East,the Romans had been

the(〕 Ortyn archaeological site,Opens a、 vin―

expanding theirs tO the west and now alsO began rnaking inroads into Greece.´ rhey lound 、 villing allies in Pergamum and R、1lodes,、 vhO feared syrian and Macedonian

′OntO the SOCiCtal structure of IDorian dOヽヽ C)rete. Inscribed on 12 1arge stOne tablets, cOvered civil and criminal rnatters

the la、 vs

、′ ith clear distinctiOns drawn anlong the

eXpansionislη .The Romans defeated the Sel―

classes Ofnree citizcns and between citizens

eucid king,Antiochus III,in a threc― year

and slaves Crirnina1 0ffences, nO nlatter ho、v seriOus, 、ere usually punishcd by ∼ incs;there is nO mention ofinlprisOnment or execution. La・ ぃ′ s on inheritance, adOp_ tion and divorce were rernarkably level‐ headed.E)ivisions Of property upOn divorce closely resemble tOday's`cOmmunity prop― erty' legal theories. ヽ Vives retained the propcrty thcy brOught into thc marriage, plus half Of 、 vhatcver thcy had `woven Within'the inarriage.Ifthe husband caused the divOrce he had to pay a llne but, if he

campaign and in 189 BC gave al1 0f Asia Minor to Pergainunl. Several wars were nCeded to suttugatc Maedon,butin 168 BC MaCedOn lost the decisive 13a■ le of Pydnaa.

The Achaean League was defeated in 146

BC;the Roman consul Mummius made an exarnple of the rebelliOus Corinthians by conlpletely destrOying their beautiful city,

nlassacring thc mcn and selling the wonlen and Children into siavery.Attalos III,king of

Pergamuin,died without an heirin 133 BC, donating Asia Minor to Rome in his will.

denicd it,the case went bebre ajudge.

In 86 BC,Athens joined in a rebelllon againstthe Ronlans in Asia Minor staged by

The Classical Age As the rest of(〕 reece entered its g。 lden age

fronl the 6th to 4th centurics BC,Crete rerllained a backwater. suffering nronl the COnStant warfare bctween iarge corninercial centres an(l snlaller traditiOnal cOrninu―

the king Ofthe Black Sea region,ヽ 4ithridatcs VI.In return,the Roinan staesman Sulla in―

vaded Athens,destrOyed its、 alis and tOOk ∼ off、′ ith its ll10st valuable sculptures. ´ 「 he Rornans had various interests in rete which included reducing piracy and

(1〕

nities, the island l)ecanle increasingly inl―

eXerting COntr01 0Ver inlpOrtant sea routes.A

poverished and isolated frOm rnainland

Roman presence in Crete dated back to the

〕 reece.Aithough Crete did not participate in the Persian 、 vars or the Pe10pOnncsian War their cconornic circurnstances fOrccd

3rd century lB(〕

(〔

but it、 vasn't

untilthe second

Mithridaticヽ rar(74-64 BC)thatthcy fOund a prctcxt fOr intervention.Using piracy as an

lllany Crctans to sign up as inercenaries in foreign arnlies Or turn to piracy

cxcuse Marcus Antonius, father of Mark

At thc same time,Crete's r01e as thc

Crete which failed.The Cretans tried to ne‐

Antony,undein00k a naval canlpaign against

birthplace Of(]reek culture dre、 the atten― ∼ tiOn Of phi10SOpherS Such as Plato and Aris―

gOtiatC and send envoys to Roinc but they ′ ヽ ヽ ere rebuffed.Expecting a Rornan invasiOn,

tOtle 、 vhO、vrOte cxtensively about Crete's political institutiOns.

the island united and asselη

The Century preccding thc Rolman cOn― qucst Of Crcte 、 vas marked by continued turinOil on the isiand as Knossos,Gortyn,

69 E〕 C

Lyttos and Kydonia(Hania)vied for su_ prelllacy. Egypt, Rhodcs and the po、

vcrful

bled an arnly of 26,000 men.´「 he Rornan carnpaign began in

undcr the Rornan consul Metellus

near Kydonia,then sprcad throughoutthe is―

land.Although the Cretans 10ught valiantly the Romans succeeded in suttugating the is_ land t、 vO ycars iater

1 8 Faldts about Crete―

History

くreece then becanle a battleground as Roman generals lought lor supremacy.In a decisive naval battle off Cape Actium(31 [〕

in crete but b)′ the 3rd century persccution of Christians began in carnest.

Bc),octavian was victOrious over Mark

The irst Christian martyrs in Crete were the sO_called Ten Saints(AghiI)eka)killed

Antony and Cleopatra and consequcntly be―

in the village Ofthe sanle nallle in 250 AI).

At the same time, thC Pax Romana

came Roime's irst emperor,assuming the For the next 300 years Greece,as the ROrnan prOvince ofAchaca,experienced an

began tO crunlble when the(3oths invaded reece, the first of a succession of in― vaders spurred on by the `great lnigra―

unprecedented periOd Ofpeace,the Pax Ro―

tiOns', which included the Visigoths in

title Augustus,the Grand Onc.

mana.The Romans had always venerated

(:〕

395,the lViandals in 465,thc()strogoths in

Greek art,literature and philosophy,and

48o,thc lBulgars in 500,the Huns in 540

aristocratic〕 Rornans sent their offspring to

and the Siavs a■ er 600.

the nlany schools in Athens.Indeed,the Ro―

´ thc country's new religion. 「 hc definitive

mans adopted most aspects of Hellcnistic culture,spreading itS uni″ ing trad OnS throughout their enlpire. Although Crete lost po、 ver and influence under the Ronlans it did usher in a new era ofpeace,bringing to an end Crete's internal

Christianity,meantime,had emerged as

boost to the sprcad of Christianity in this pa1l of theヽ vOrld canleヽvith the conversion

ofthe Rornan enlperors and the rise ofthe Byzantine Empire,which blended Hellenis― tic cuiture with Christianity.

In 324 Einperor Constantinc I(alSO

wars.Crete did not mount a maJOr chal― lenge to Roman rule although they beCame enlbroiled in the later rivalry bet、 veen

knOwn as cOnstantine the Great),a Christ―

AntOny and(:)ctavian.When Antony ruled

empire iom Rome to Byzantium,a city on

ian convert, transferred the capital of the

he punished the cities that supported(1)cta‐ vian and、 'hen(Dctavian triunlphed he pun‐ ∼ ished the cities that supported Antony. In the early years ofRol■ lan rule,panls of

the、 vestern shore of the lBosphorus,、 vhich

vere given as favours to various Crete 、 Rolnan allies.In 27 BC Crete was united

tance Of the wealthy eastern regions ofthe

、 ″ith Libya to forrn the Rolman province of

Cyrene.(3ortyn became the capital and

was renamed COnStantinOple(preSent― day IStanbul).ThiS WaS aS inuCh due tO inSeCur― ity in italy itself as to the gro、 ving impor―

empire.By the end ofthe 4th century,the Roman Ernpire was forma‖ y divided into a western and eastern section;Crete,along

built an arnphitheatre, ternples and public

、′ ith the rest of(〕 reece,lound itself in the hile Rome went into terrnin― eastern haliヽ ′

baths and the pOpulatiOn increased. Knos‐

al decline,the easterll capital grew in wealth

sOs appeared tO fallinto disuse but Kydonia

and strength, long outliving its

(Hania)in the WeSt beCame an impOrtant

cOunterpart(the Byzantine Empire lasted

mOst pOwerful city Of Crete.The Rolnans

centre.IRolTlan townsヽ vere linked by a net―

wOrk ofroads,bridges and aqueducts,parts Of v/hich can stili be seen. t,nder the Ro― nlans, the(I〕 retans continued tO

ヽ VOrship

Zeus in the E)ikteon and ideon([〕

aves and

alsO incOrporated Rontan and Egyptian deities into their religious rituals.

christianity 8:the lBy2antine

lmpl腱

Christianity arrivcd early in Crete with St Paul's visitin 63 AD.He len it to his dis― ciplc,Titus,tO cOnvert the isiand.Little is kno、 vn aboutthe early years of(〕 hristianity

、 vestern

until the capture of Constantinople by the Turks in 1453). Crete、 vas a self governing provincc in the Byzantine E:rlpireヽⅣith(Gortyn as its administrative and religious centre.Piracy decreased and trade nourished leaving the ′ ヽ island 、 ealthy enough to build scores of churches― the largest of、 vhich is thc three aisled IBasilica in IPanornlos that dates fiorn

the 5th century. Crcte's attachrnent to the v′

Orship Of icOns prOvOked a revolt in 727

when E■ lperor Leo lll banned their 、Orship as part of the iconoclastic rnove― ∼

ment.The uprising was smashed and the

Facts about Crete― History 19

´

Byzantine enlperors unleashed a fierce ヽ vave of retribution. In the early 7th century Crete was at― tacked by Siavs but the n10re seriOus threat ヽ VaS posed by the Arabs in the mid-7th cen―

tury.NaVal attacks by the Arabs、 vere un―

I'he stated mission ofthe crusades、 vas tO

liberate the Holy Land iom the Muslims, but in reality they、 vere driven as much by

greed as by religiOus fervour.ClonstantinO_ pleヽ VaS sacked in 1204 in the 4th C〕 rusade and the CruSaderS inStalled Baldwin ofFlan―

rernitting and they finally cOnquered Crete ′ around 824.It's unclear to、 、 hat extent the retans resisted the Arab conquest Or even

derS aS head ofthe short‐

whether the Arabs succeeded in securing

Alexios prOmised Crete to BOniface Of

COntrO1 0f the entire island.The Arabs es― tablished a fOrtress called Chandax in what

ple 13oniface sold Crete to｀Vienice.

([〕

lived Latin Empire Of Constantinople.Mcanwhile,in an el仔 lort tO SeCure the throne, the 13yzantine lPrince

Montferrat.After the sack Of Constantino‐

is now irakliO. Its main functiOn was to StOre the treasure they arnassed by piracy.

:rete WaS an ideal base for Arab ships tO launCh attaCkS thrOughout the Aegean and

(Ξ

Adriatic Seas;as the island's criininal rep‐ utation grew its econonly d、 vindlcd and its cultural life grOund to a halt.

・ ″ere in no pOsition tO 「 he :Byzantines 、

help(Crete despite its strategic irnportance.

The isiand was far away■ 01n Constantino‐

ple and the Byzantines had enough prOb_ lems detnding tcritOries closer tO hOme. Ievertheless,they made repeated attenlpts to rccover the isiand, 、 vhich ended disas_ trously. Not until thc Bン ′ Zantine gencral

1ヽ

Nikiforas Fokas attacked Chandax in a bit‐ ter siege in 960 did the Arabs finally yield.

The ByZantineS 10St nO time inお ■1取 ing the Cretan cOast and cOnsOlidating their

power. Chandax ernerged as the isiand's ′capital ne、ス

and the seat Ofthe Cretan arch‐

diocese while Gortyn faded away.Cretan tradition h01ds that thc lByzantines estab―

α″― ο″′ ο αon the island、 vho eventually ρOン ′

lished 1 2 aristocratic farnilies known as `力

became po、 verfui voices ofrebelllon against

Venctian rulc. A powerう ul land holding Class had emerged lon the island by the late

Venetian Rule I:)espite(EIrcte's inlportance tOヽ ienetian cOn― trol of the Meditell・ anean,ヽ ´ enice was slow

to assert inastery over the island.

´

rheir arChriValS fOr naVal suprenlacy, the Geno― ese,moved in On the island but after a ser‐

ヽrenetians inally enoa made periodic and

ies Of canlpaigns the prevailed in 121 7.([〕

iltile effO■ s tO recapture the isiand which

remained under｀ enetian l■ lle until 1 669. In order to sondi″ its authority,venice rapidly colonised(〕 rete、 vith noble and mili_ tary families,many Ofwhorn settled in lrak― li。 (Clandia). I)uring the irst century of ｀ vienetian rule abOut 1 0,000 settiers carne to

rete.In order tO induce Venetians tO settlc on(I)rete the authOrities seized the island's best and mOst iertile land and gave ittO the (:〕

newcomers.The foriner Cretan Owners now worked as serfs fOrtheir new｀ vienetian nlas―

ters.Not only were the maJOr landholdcrs

Venetian but political cOntrol was alsO frinly in Venetian hands.All government posts、vere held by Vienetians、 vho answered tO venice. Cretan peasants were ruthlessly exploited

directl)′

v/hether a native Crctan aristOcratic ciass dates back tO the 10th century.

under Venetian rule. IParticularly onerOus 、 vas the Venetian requirenlent that yOung rnen serve in theヽ ienetian galleys..The、 vOrk ′ 、 、 as exceptionally brutal and rnany young

The Clrusades

men did not survive the experience.()ppres‐ sive taxatiOn added to the peasants'wOes.

llth century, but histOrians are uncertain

lt is one Of the ironies Of history that thc

demiSC ofthe Byzantine Empire was accel‐ erated not by invasiOns Ofinfidels frOnl the

east,nor barbarians lrOm the north,but by た‖OW ChriStianS■ Om thc west― the Frank‐ lsh crusaders.

Religious linc also suffered under the ヽrenetians. AIthough nOt particularly reli‐ giOus thernseives,the｀ Vienetians viewed the church as a syrnbol of national identity for

the Cretans.The Orthodox Church was dis‐ mantled and replaced 、 vith the CathOlic

20 Facts about Crete―

Histo:γ

(1)hurch,but despite the relentless persecu‐

Italian iRenaissance that was iinported into

tion,

crete sparked a majOr culmral revival.Po‐ etry and dranla inourished and a `cretan School'of icon painting developed in the

Orthodox nlonasteries

renlained

llotbeds of resistance and kept the spirit of national unity alive. C)retans rebelled regularly againstヽ 4en‐

etian rule.Spearheaded by the now iandless cretan aistocracy,the“ benions f。 110wed a predictable patern of Cretan uprising fol‐ 10wed by brutal Venetian reprisals.The most ienetian rule was posed serious challenge to by the St Titus Кbenion of 1363.Venetian feudal lords and the native Cretan aristoc‐ racy joined together to oppose the oppres― sive new taxes.()nce again the rebellion was suppressed but eventually the incessant re― belliOnS fOrCed COnCeSSiOnS nrOnl I:ン a Serenissima.IBy the 15th century the Cretan ancl lVienetian comntunities reached an un‐ eお y compromise thtt a■ owed Cretan cul‐ tural and econornic life to lnourish.

The Ottoman Empire

｀enice was soon facing a much greater lζ

threat iOm the CaSt.The Setuk TurkS,a tribe■ om Central Asia,had irst appeared On the castern 3ringes Ofthe Byzantine Em‐ pire in the rniddle ofthe llth ccntury.´

「 hey

established thernselves on the Anatolian plain by defeating a I〕 yzantine arnly at ・he threat looked to Manzikert in 1071. 「 have been contained, especially when the Se」

ukS Were themSelVeS OVerrun by the

16th and 17th centuries that cornbined ´ enetian elenlents. In the 13yzantine and ｀ midst of this artistic ferment, the painter

′ E)orneniko 「 heotokopoulos was born in lraklio in 1541. He studied in ltaly under ´ ritian and later inOved to spain、 vhere he

became known as EI Greco. With the fall of Cyprus to the´ 「 urks in 1570 it seerned that Crete would be next On the()ttoman agenda butthe´「 urkish defeats

at the Battle of Lepanto in 1571 crirnped ottOman plans fOr funher western expan― siOn. By the carly 17th century the C)t‐

tOmans were on the nlove again while ヽ v(enice was under severe econornic pressure f10m the rise OfSpanish,English and I)utch shipping.As a resource‐ rich and strategic― vas obvi― vell‐ located isiand, Crcte ヽ ally 、 ´ ously attractive to the ()ttomans. 「 he

island's defences had previously been

ienice was strengthened against piracy but slow to rearrange their defences in the face

ofthe looming Ottoman thre渡

.

The Turks were looking lor a pretext to invade the island and in 1644 they found one、vhen pirates atacked a Turkish ship off the Cretan coast.The´「 urks amassed a huge force thatlanded in Hania in the early surn―

Mongols.By thetiinc Mongol po、 ver began tO wanc,the Seljuks htt been supplanted as

mer of 1645.Although the fortress was

the dominant Turkish tribc by the O■ olTlans

and the´ rurks established their irst loothold

―the f0110wers of Osman,who ruled,om

On the isiand.Rethyrn■ o wasthe nexttown to sufFier siege, 1)ornbardrnent and defeat. With the westerll part of the isiand secured

1289 to 1326. The lMuslim Ottomans rapidly expanded the areas under their con― trol and by the inid‐ 15th century、 vere har‐ assing the lByzantine lEinpire on all sides.

bravely defcnded it fell within tWO months

the´ rurks turned their amention to lraklio

(candia).'The siege began in May 1648 but

Wlestern Europe was too enlbroiled in the cars'War to corne to the rescue, Hundredヽ ζ and in 1453 Constantinople fellto the´「 urks

the massive、 valls ofthe city kept the enenly at bay for 21 ycars.Both sides threM′ every― thing they had into the struggle.｀ v4enicc ap‐

under Mohammed II(the Conqueror).

pealed to other European powers for

The fall of Constantinople lei Crete as the last renlaining bastion of Hellenism.

supp。 ■ arguing that the fate of Christianity

13yzantine scholars and intellectuals ned the dying einpire and settled in Crete, estab‐

arrived but were in no position to inatch the helming Turkish forces.Candia fell Ovel、′ in 1669 1eaving the entire island except for

lishing schools, libraries and printing

´ presses. he cross pollination bctween Byzantine traditions and the flourishing I｀

hung in the balance.European mercenaries

spina10nga and SOuda(which tllin 1715) in Turkish hands.

FaCtS abOut Crete― HiStory 21

EI Greco C)ne Of the geniuSeS of the Renaissance,EI Greco(meaning IThe Creek'in Spanishi his real

nanle was[)Omeniko TheotokoPOulos)Was born and educated on Cirete but had to travelto SPain to earn recognition.

[I GreCO WaS bOrn in the Cretan capital of(3andia(present― day lrakli。 )in 1541 during a

time Of great artiStiC aCtivity in the city.AAany of the artists,writers and philosophers who fled

C:OnSta'ltinOple afterit WaS COnquered by the Turksin 1453 had settied on Crete,leading to the ernergence of the Cretan schOOl of icon painters.The painters had a fornlative influence upon the young EI Greco,giving hirn the eariy grounding in the traditions of iate Byzantine frescO painting that vvas to give such a powerful spiritual elernent to his later paintings. BeCauSe Candia WaS a Venetian City it WaS a 10giCal Step for EI Greco to head to Vё

nice to

further his studies,and he set()ff when he、 ″as in his early 20s to loin the studiO Of￢ tian.:t was not,however, until he n10Ved tO.SPain in 1577 that he rea‖

y carne into his own as a painter.His highly emOtional style

StruCk a chord with the Spanish, and the city Of Toledo 、 ′ へ as tO become his home until his death in 1614.To view the most famous of his wOrks,like his nlaSterpieCe The θυ′ ′ a′ Of(rOυ ′ ,オ Orgiaz(1586),you Will haVe tO traVel tO T101edO. The only EI Greco

ヽ ″ork on display in Crete isヽ 4eИ′Of′ ケiオ S′ ″a′ aη d めeル !0″ asた り′οF St Car力 ε″″ε(1570),painted during his tirne in Venice. lt hangs in iraklio's

Historical Museum Of Crete.

A white marble bust Of the painter StandS in the City'S Plateia EI Greco,and there are streets named atter hinn throughout the isiand.

Much has been nlade Ofthe hOrrOrs Ofthe ´ urkish occupatiOn in Crete. Ho、 vever, in

late trade for their O、 vn benefit,as the vene‐

the early years at any rate,Cretans prObably

tians did, the ()ttOnlans devised highly imaginative taxes in order to wring every

margina‖ y prefered O■ Oman to Venetian rule.Life was not easy under the Turks al_ thOugh they did allow the OnhOdOx church

early years Of()■ onlan irule the ecOnOmy

I｀

CStabliSh itSelf On the isiand_Never‐ theless,there、 vere trernendous political and tO re―

econornic advantages to ernbracing lsianl. Mass cOnversions 、 vere cornn10n; SOme― tirnes entire villages changed their faith.

There were Turko‐ Cretans whO wholly identined、vith the Turks and the crypt。 _ hristians who secretly maintained their

(:〕

faith.1ヽ

laturally,cach hated the Other.

Econornically,the Cretans were no better

off under iC)ttoman rule than they were under the ｀ v4enetians. Rather than lnanipu―

last drOp Of、 vealth Out Of the isiand.In the

degenerated to a subsistence level,buttrade

activity picked up around the beginning of the 18th century and living standards irn―

prOved.Crete expOrted grain and the abun― dance ofolive oil launched a soap industry. (1)ne of the rnost hated practices Of the

´ 「 urkS WaS the JaniSSary system. In the(Dt―

toman Empiに ,the Sultan impressed one out OfiVe ChriStian boyS iOm their SubieCt pOp―

「 hey were converted to lsiam, given special training and made ulations intO service.・ pa■

Ofthe O■ Oman arlny elite.Kmown as

Janissaries,they functiOned as the Sultan's

22 Facts about Crete―

Histo:γ

reck state、 vas inally

adrninistrative representatiVes throughout the O■ oman Empi“ .Forbidden to marり ,the

prcvailed.Whcn a(〕

Janissaries were granted special privileges in

and instead was given to Egypt.

established in 1 830,Crete was not part ofit

return for unquestioning ioyalty and their

Egyptian rule initially brought inlprove‐

nlle began to spin out of control.Christian fanlilies on Crete、 vho had initially thought

ments.A general amnesty wasissued which

the C)■ loman

Janissary system an honour for

their sons were honined to discover that thc Janissaries on their island were nlore likc

hoodlurns.They answered to no laW butthcir vn and ruthlessly terrorised the population ゝ′ ith extortionate taxes,randoinl aiacks and o、

even murder. Under such oppression rebellion was in‐ evitable.Many Cretans ncd to thc rnountains and harassed thc・ rurks with spOradic atacks and raids.In 1770 a rnore serious challengc tO′ urkish l■ 1le arose.The・ Furks never suc‐ 「 ceeded in ftllly subjugating the moun● inous

asked cretans tO lay dOwn their arins.Mus‐

lirns and Christians

、 vere to be treatcd

equally,schools、 vere organiscd and the au‐ thorities began rebuilding the isiand's in‐

仕astructure.Neve■ heless,taxes remained high and soon new protestsヽ vere underway. Meanwhile Mchinet Ali was dcfeated by thc ´ ′ ers dc― reat Poヽ へ 「 urks in Syria and the(:〕 cided to give Crete back tO the()ttomans in

1840.Another rebell10n brOkC Out in 1841 but、 vas squashed.

Upon the restoration of Ottoman rule, Creteヽ von irnpo■ ant new privileges in the

I:)askalogiannis,2000 Sfakians mounted an

writ of Hatti Humayun allowing more relト gious ieedom and the right to own prop‐ erty.Afヽ1■ her decree granted Cretans more

assault upOn the Turks in western Crete.Al‐

civil rights but the Sultan's repeated viola―

thOuま Daskalogiamis had reccived assur‐

tiOns ofthese new iaws sparked yet another uprising and a denland for a′ οs,s,or union with ice Greece.Although Russia was par‐ tialtO the cretan pOs On,Great Britain and France wished to maintain the status quo

Sfakian region and, under their leader

ances Of support florn Russia,the aid never materialised and tlle rebellion waS Viciously

suppressed. I)askalogiannis was skinned alive in the central square of lraklio.

Sfakia was once again thc nucleus ofre‐

and refused any rnilitary or econornic help.

Var of lndepen― bellion when the(1〕 reck ヽ

Rallying around the siogan `Union Or

dence spread t。 (Crete in 1821. With bitter

E)eath',fighting broke outin western Crete.

rnen10ries Of the 1770 ■asco, the Sfakian rebeis ired the irst shots in the struggle

Oncc again the TurksjOined lorces with the 】 E.gyptians and attacked the civilian ipopula― tiOn in their n10untain villages.About 900 rebels and their farnilies took reluge in ・ Moni ArkadiOu. When 2000 「 urkish s01-

that soon spread throughout the isiand.Un―

6ortunately the revolutionaries were ham‐

pered by poor organisation and constant inighting.The Turks swiftly retaliated and ave ofmassacres prirnarily diト launched a、 ア

diers staged an atack on the building,rather

Bogged down fighting rebels in the Pelo―

than surrendet the Cretans set light to a stOre of gun po、 vder.・ he cxplosion killed alnlost everyone, Turks included, except

pOnnese and rnainland Greece, the rurks

onc srnali girl.´「 his sole survivor lived to a

were 10rced to turn to Mchmet Ali ofEgypt

ripe 01d age in a village nearby.A bust of this wonlan,and the abbotヽ vho lit the gun powder,stand outside the nlonastery. with the herOic stand atヽ 4oni Arkadiou, the Cretan cause gained wOrldwide atten―

ected at the clergy.

I｀

′

for help in dealing with the Cretans.Chron‐

of arms and undisciplined,the cretans fought nuriously but were Outnum― ically sho■

bered by the Turkish‐ Egyptian lorces. ar,Crete With the rest ofGreece tonl by￢ ′

、 vas left on its own;the revolutional)′ move‐ ment nickered Out in 1824.Fighting con― tinued for a fe、

v more years provoking

tion. Although denlonstrations erupted throughout Europe in support ofthe rebels, (〕

reat 13ritain and France nlaintained a pro‐

′ I｀

urkish stance.´ he(I)reat PoWers forbade :「

reece frorn aiding the cretan rebels and

fearsome massacres of Cretan civilianS but

(:〕

it was only a rnatter oftime until the Turks

the revolution petered out_

FaCtS abOut Crete― Histo:γ

23

]ndependence

The Russo‐ Turkish恥 ′ ar Of 1877 prompt‐ ed another uprising in Crete.Sensing that ´ rurkey might be deneated the l(〕 reek gov_ ernment deCided tO support Crcte.Although

Crete was placed under internatiOnal ad― rninistration, but uniOn with its cultural brethren in Greecc renlained an unquench_

the rebels seized m`l10r north coast cities,the

able desire. A ne、 v nlovernent cOalesced

Berlin COnference of 1878 resolving the

around EleftheriOs Venizelos. IBorn near

Russo― Turkish War innly re」 ected Cretan

Hania,this charismttic igure was Prince

union with Greece.Turkey inade new con― CeSSiOnS in the lHaleppa Charter of 1878

George'sヽ linister Of Justicc and a member ofthe Cretan Assembly.ln the face ofPrince

turning Crete into a seini― autonolnous

([〕

eorge's stubbOnl refusal to consider unin_

province,sanctiOning l〔 〕 reek as the Oflicial language and granting a general al■ lnesty. In 1889,■ erce p01itical inighting、 ′ ithin

reV。 lutiOnary aSSenlbly in Theriso in 1905

the Cretan parlianlent inflarned Passions

unity with Greece.Venizelos then set up a

and prompted a new rebelllon against Turk―

ish rule, prOnlpting Turkey to revOke the Haleppa Chartcr and rcturn to the iron‐ ■Sted p01icies of the past.A new figure of reSiStanCe enlerged lronl Sfakia.Manoussos Koundouros headed a secret nraternity with the goal ofsecuring autonomy 10r the isiand

believing that it would eventually lead to unl■ cation 、 vith lGreece. The rebels iaid siege tO the .I｀

urkish garrisOn at Vanlos

、 vhich led to viOlent reprisals by the l｀

urks

cation, EleftheriOs Vienizelos convened a which raised the(:〕 reek nag and declared rival governrnent to adrninister the isiand.

´ 「 he rebellion spread,forcing the(3reat POw_ erS tO COnCede that Prince(3eorge had lost all support. Thcy rnediated a sOlution, al― lo、 ′ ing iKing George of Greece to appOint a ne、 v

governor of Crete,which brought the

island anOther step closer tO union. Although a ne、 v governor was appointed, the populace continued to agitate for unin_

cation.In 1908 the Crctan assembly issued

and an eventual intervention by the(:〕 reat POwers.The´ rurks、vere forced to agree t。

a prOClanlatiOn deClaring unity with(3recce but thc Greek gOvernnlent refused to al10、 v (3retan dcputies tO sit in the(Greek Parlia―

a neヽ ′COnstitution for(E〕 rete.

ment.EVen though Ele■ herios Venizelos

｀ Vhen Vi01enCe erupted again in 1896,the ([〕

reck government sent a slllal1 lorce to the

isiand and declared uni(lcation bet、 veen Crete and Greece.The Great Powers re―

had bCCOnlC Prilne ヽ4inister, Greecc re‐ nlained fearfu1 0f antagonising T｀ urkey and the Great Powers whO were adamantly Op_

reCalled itS forces.The(3reat Powcrs ap_

poscd to the plan.Not until Greece,Scrbia and IBulgaria declared i″ ar on the Ottoinan E;mpire over Maccdonia in the first Balkan ヽ′ ar(1912)were Cretans inany anOwed into thc Greek Parliament.The 1913 Treaけ of iBucharest ended the war and fOrnlally

pointed Prince George,son OfKing George

recognised Crete as part Ofthe(〕

jected the idea and b10ckaded the cOast,re_ ・ urks Or the fusing tO al10、 v either the 「 reekS tO reinfOrce their position. Greece becanle einbrOiled in a war with Turkey and ([〕

of Greece,as High ComnlissiOner. V′

In 1898,a detachrnent Of British soldicrs aS implenlenting the transfer Of pO、 ver in

reek state.

WWI&Slmlyrna King Constantinc,who was mamed tOthe sis―

lraklio when an cnraged inob Of′ rurks

ter of the German emperot insisted that

stornled through the city siaughtering hun― dredS Of ChriStian CiVilians and 17 British

Turkish trOublelllakers, hanged thcnl and

reece rernain neutral、 ′ hen WVVI broke out ∼ in August 1914.As the war dragged On,the Anies(Britain,France and Russia)put in― creasing pressure on Gκ ece tO joinお rces with them against Cermany and TurkeyI「 hey

sent a squadron of ships stcallling into the

lllade promises which thcy couldn't hOpe tO

S01diers as、 ′ ell as the 13ritish(Oonsul to the

∼

iSIand The lBritiSh SWi■ ly rounded up 17

lraklio Harbour.Thc Turks wcre ordcrcd out ofali their isiand fOrtresses,ending Ot― to11lan rule over Crete lorever.

([〕

i11■

1,including land in Asia Mino■

ienizelos

lvoured the Allied cause,placing him atlog― gerheads、 vith the king.´ Ilensions betteen the fセ

24 Facts about Crete―

History

hvo canle to a head in 1916,and Vcnizelos set up a rebel goveinment,■ rstin Crete and then in Thessaloniki,while the pressure■ onl the Allies cvcntually persuaded iCOnstantine to

leave Greece in June 1917.He was rcplaced by his mOre anenable second son,Alexander reek troops served with distinction on the Allicd side,but when the war ended in 1918 the prorniscd land in Asia Minor、 vas (:〕

stability unpreccdented even by Greek standards.In(1)ctOber 1920,Kling Alexan‐ der had died lrorn a monkey bite,resulting in the restOratiOn Of his father, K、 ing onstantine. Constantinc identilled him self too closely ,ぃ 7ith thc war against ・ urkey, and abdicated after the fall of 「 Sinyrna.:He、 vas replaced by his irst son, George II,but Gcorgc was no matchう or ([〕

not fo■ hcoining.Venizelos took matters intO

the group of army oficers who seized

his O、 vn

vith Allied acquies― hands and, 、 cenCe,landed tr00pSin Smyrna(preSent― day

pOwer aner the wan A republic was pro‐ claimed in March i924 arnid a series of

lzmir)in May 1919 underthe guise of pro‐

coups and counter―coups. A measure of stability was attained with

tecting the half a milllon Greeks living in

that City GuSt under half itS pOpulatiOn). With a finTl foothold in Asiaヽ 4inor,Venize― 10s nO、v planned to push hornc his advantage

against a war_depleted Ottoman Empire.He Ordered his trOOps tO attack in C)ctober 1920

0uSt WeekS befOre he WaS VOted Out Of O←

nce).By September 1921,the Crecks had advanced as far as Ankara.

ere cominanded by The Turkish forces￢ ′ Mustaね Kemal(latcr to becomc Ataturk),a yOung general 、 vho also belonged to the ´ Young 「 urks, a group of army officers preSSing fOr VVeStern― Sサ le p。 litiCal refOrrnS・ Iく

lernal irst halted the(3reck advance out―

、ienize10s'return tO po、 verin 1928.I― le pur‐ sued a policy of economic and educational reforms,but progress、 vas inhibited by the Great DepressiOn.His anti‐ royalist Liberal Party began to face a gro、 ving challenge ■Om the mOnarchist Popular Pa“ y,culmin― ating in defeat at the polis in March 1933. The ne、 ′government、vas preparing for the lenizelos restOration ofthe rnonarchy when｀ ν

and his suppolters staged an unsuccessful

coup in March 1935. Venizelos、 as exiled to Paris, where he ∼ died a year later.In Novenlber 1935,Kling (〕 eorge 11、 vas restored to the throne by a

side Ankard in September 1921 and then

rigged plebiscite,and he installed the right―

vith a rnassive ofllensive the routed thenl 、

wing (3eneral loannis Metaxas as prinle

fo‖ owing

minister. Nine months iater, ヽ4etaxas as― surned dictatorial powers with the king's cOnsent under the pretext of preventing a cOnlnlunist― inspired republic‐ an coup.

spring.The Crecks were driven

Out Of smyrna and inany ofthe Greek in‐ habitants、 'ere massacred.

´

∼

T'he OutcOrne Ofthe failed Greek invasion and the revolution in Turkey l″ as the Treaty

of Lausanne ofJuly 1923.This gave eastern hrace and the isiands oflrnvros and・ rlene_ vhilc thc ltalians kept the dos to Turkey, 、 lヽ

Dodecanesc.

´ rhe treaty alsO called 10r a population ´ exchangc bet、 vecn (]reece and 「 urkey to

WW‖ Metaxas'grandiose vision was to create a Third Greek Civilisation based on its giori― vhat he ous ancient and 13yzantine past,but ν actually created was rnore like a Greek ver―

siOn Of the Third Reich.He cxlled or im―

prevcnt any future disputcs.Alinost l.5 1nil―

prisoned opponents, banned trade unions

lion(3reeks ieni´ urkey and alnlost 400,000

andthe KKE(KOmmunistiko Komma EHa―

Turks len Greece.On Crete,the entire

dos,the Greek Communist Party),imposed

Turkish population of about 30,000 people was ordered offthe isiand,abandoning their

press censorship,and created a secret police

I｀

hOrnes to the inconling Greck renugees.

The Republic of 1 924‐ 35

´ ′ 「 he arrival ofthe renugees coincided、 ith, and compounded,a period of political in―

force and a fascist― style youth rnovement. ヽ4etaxas is best knoヽ vn,howevet fOr his

reply of ο″′(no)to Mussolini's request tO al10w the ltalian 10rces to traversc(3reece

atthe beginning ofヽ Vヽ VII,thus maintaining ´ he reece's policy of strict neutrality. ([〕

I｀

Facts about Clrete― History 25

Italians invaded Greecc, but wcre driven back into Albania. A prerequisite Of Hitler's plan tO invade

the Soviet UniOn was a secure southern nank in the Balkans.The British,realising

this, askcd Metaxas if they cOuld land troops in Greecc.I― le gave thc sanle reply he

had given the ltalians,but died suddenly in

Januaっ ′1941.The king replaced hirn with

the morc timid Alexandros Koryzis,who agreed to British forces ianding in Greece ′ and then cornmitted suicide、 、 hen([〕 ernlan tr00pS marchcd through Ytlgoslavia and in―

vaded(]recce on 6 Apri1 1941.The country WaS rapidly Overrun and on 23 ,へ pril the

Airning to capture the airport at Maleme, vn over

thousands ofparachutists 10atcd do、

Hania,Rethymno and iraklio. 01d mcn,wolllen and children grabbed rines, 。ld shotguns, sicklcs and、vhatever else thcy cOuld lind tO defend thcir horne‐ land.(〕 erillan casualties、 vere appalling but

they managcd to capture thc Maleme air― icld. Although thc Allies probably could haVe recaptured the airineld beforc the(3er― rllans had tiine tO securc it,cOnfusion and a

lack of wireless sets prevcnted the Allies lrom redeploying their trOOps arOund the

leader ofthe Greck government,Eminanuel

vital air base.Although the nghting contin― ued unti1 30 May,onceヽ 4aleme、vasin Ger‐ nlan hands at the end of the ifirst day,thc

Tsouderos,set up a governrnent in exile in

battle was effectively 10st.

his native Crete.

With I―Iania,Rethynlno,and (:〕

Battle of Crete

lrakliO under

ernlan control Allicd soldiers、vere forccd

VVith all available(3rcck and iCretan trOOps

to retreat to the southern port of HOra Sfakion.About 12,000 rnen rnade their、 vay

ighting the ltalians in Albania, Greecc

Over the eastcrn flank of the Lefka(1)ri

asked Britain tO defend Crete. Churchill was more than willing to oblige as he was

(White Mountains)under attack by German soldiers all the way.

determined to block Gerinany's advance

About three quarters Of thenl、 vere cvac―

through south‐ eastern lEurope.lBritish,Aus― tralian and Ne、 v Zcaland troops poured On

uated by ship fronl Hora Sfakion. ヽ4can― wh‖ e King George and Emmanuel

tO the laSt rCIYlaining pain of nrce Grcece.

Tsouderos walkcd through the Samaria

´

rhc Allies、 vere in a p00r position to de―

lend the isiand,since cornrnitrnents in the

orge to Agia Rounleli to be evacuated to Egypt. ([〕

Middle East were already draining military resourccs.「 Fhe isiand's defences had been seriously neglccted,particularly its defence

The Cretan Resistance

against an air assault.There were few

Most of thc Allied soldiers that 、 vere not evacuated、 vere hidden b)′ thc(3retans and

ighter plancs and militaら ′preparatiOn、 vas hainpercd by six changcs Of cOrnnland on

helpcd to escape.[)uring the(3ernlan occu―

the iSland in the irst six nlonths of 1941. The terrain、 vas alsO a prOblem.Thc only vi‐ ablc ports 、erc On CIrete's cxpOsed nOrth ∼ COast;inadequatc roads precluded the use of

the nlorc prOtected pOrts On thc southern

pation Allied undercovcr agcnts supplied

iom No■ hA,ica coordinated the guerina warfare waged by the Cretan fighters, knoヽ ′ n as α″aα ′ ′ ′s.Allied soldiers and Cre‐

∼

tans alike l^′ ere under cOnstant threat lrorll

attaCk British forces in the eastern Meditcr‐

thc Nazis 、hile they lived in caves, shel― ∼ tercd in monasteries, trelく ked acrOss peaks or unloaded carg0 0n the sOuth cOast.()ne of the mOst daring feats of the resistance nう oVenlent、vas the kidnapping of(3eneral

ranean. In a stunning disregardう

Kreipe in 1944.The German commander

coast to resupply the army.

Mieanwhile Hitlcr was detcrinined to seize the island and use it as an air base tO or Crete's

rebellious history, 1-litler actually believed

v/as snatched outsidc lrakliO and spirited

that(3crinan forces、 vould be、 eicolllcd by ∼ the nativc pOpulatiOn.They、 ere not ∼ Aner a week― long aerial boinbardirlent,

′ dOwn to the south coast and a、 へ ay to lEgypt.

an airborne invasion began on 20 May.

Psychoundakis.

For a nloving account of the(〕 retan

resis―

tance, read 71カ θ(3'″ ι ′ α″沢″″″′′,by(3eorge

26 Facts about Crete― History

([〕

GreecejoinedNATOin 1951,and in 1953

erman reprisals against the civilian

population、 vere nerce,cspecially an‐ er the

kidnapping of〈 ]eneral lく reipe.Cities were bombed and villagcs、 vere annihilated、 ′ ith the inen,、 vornen and children lined up and shot. When the Clernlans ,「 nally surren― dered in 1945 they insisted on surrendering to the British nearing thatthe cretans would inflict upon them sorne ofthe same punish― Fnent they had Sufllered fOr fOur yCarS.

Postwar Crete

the tJS、vas granted the right to operate sov― ereign bases. Intent on nlaintaining a right‐

wing governnlent,the tJS gavc generous aid and even nlore generOus military support_ Despite inlproved living standards during the 1950s,(〕 recce renlained a poor countly. ing governrnents A succcssion of right‐ Ⅵ′

was supplanted by the centrist EK(Centre Union)led by Georgos Papandreou in 1964. His govcrnrnent、 vas short‐ lived;a group of arnly colonels ied by(leorgos Papadopou―

With the detat ofthe Germans,the Allies

los and Stylianos Patakos staged a coup

turned their attention to the political corn―

plcxion of posmar(3recce.´ hroughout the

d'etat on 21 April 1967 and established a mnitary junta with Papadopoulos as primc

occupation of nlainland (:〕 reece, the resis―

minister.

I「

tance was dominated by the Greek Com‐

The colonels ilnposed martial law,

munists.ヽ Vinston Churchill wanted the king

abolished all political parties,banned trade

back and was afraid of a cornnlunist

unions, iinposed ccnsorship, and impris―

′ takeover, especially aier the t、 、 o leading resistance organisations fornlcd a coalition

oned, tortured and exiled thousands of

and declared a provisional government in

rnent to、 vards the coloneis intcnsilled、 vhen

the surnrner Of 1944.

thc colonels nluscled through maJOr tourist

An election held in March 1946,and boy― COtted by the COFnrrluniStS,WaS WOn by the royalists 、′ ith British backing. A riggcd

developrnent proり ects on the island that vッ ere rife、 ′ ith favouritisnl.Suspicions that the coup had been aided by thc(31A remain COnieCture,but CritiCiSm Of the COup,and as celnainly nOt fOrth_ the ensuing regirne,、 ′ ∼

plebiscite put(〕 eorge II back on the throne

and civil war broke out,lasting until 1 949. On Crete the situation was dittierent.The

closc coOperation between thc lCrctans and ith strong British soldiers ien the isianders、 ′ pro‐

British sentirnents that le■

little room

おr communist iniltration. 1｀

he 13ritish also nlade sure that the scarce

supplics and equiprnent available went to non― cornmunist resistance organisati()ns.

([〕

recks who opposed thern. Cretan resent‐

coming,om the CIA or thc US govern‐

ment.The pcrccption of US involvcmcntin the coup has len a rcsidue ofill feeling that has■ ot entirely dissipated.

After the Colonels ´

E)iscredited by the 「 urkish invasion of

Cyprus,the junta stepped down in July

The result was that Cretc was largely spared reecc the bloodshed and bittenless thatle■ a political and econornic basket case in the 1950s. A national elcction was held in 1950.1｀ he

1974.An election was arranged lor Novem‐ ber 1974,and the ban on coinmunist panies

system of proportional representation rc―

votcd 6996 against restoration ofthe monar‐

sulted in a series of un、 vorkable coalitions.

chy with Cretans even more overwheinl‐

(:〕

・ 「 he electoral system was changed to ma‐

voting in 1952,which excluded the communists,。 m nuture governments.The fo‖ owing election was a victory for the

joriけ

newly formed right‐ wing Ellinikos Syna‐

germos(Greek Rally)party led by General Papagos,who had been a■ eld rnarshal dur― ing the civil、 var.

was lined.Andreas Papandreou(son of Georgos)お mled PASOK(the Panhencnic SOCialiSt Un10n),and a natiOnal plebiSCite

ingly in favour of a republican systern. Karamanlis'right― wing New Democracy

(ND)party won the election in 1977,but his persOnal pOpularity,which、 vas never very high in Crete,began to dccline.()nc of his biggest achievenlents before accepting the largely cerernonial post of president was to engineer Greece's entiぅ ′into the lEuropean

FaCtS abOut Crete― History 27

Community(now thc European Union), which involvedjumping the queue ahead Of

including a wage n・ eeze for civil servants and steep increases in public― utility costs

other cOuntries、 vho had、 aited patiently to be aCCepted.()n l January 1981 Greece be‐

and basic services. It alsO announced a

Came the 10th member ofthe EC.

COntroned enterprises;OTE(the telecom‐

^′

muniCatiOnS COmpany), eleCtriCity and

The Socia:ist 1 980s Andreas Papandreou's PASOK party won the eleCtiOn of October 1981 with 48シ 6 of the vote, giving Greece its irst sOcialist governrnent.PAS():K pronlised renloval of

US baSeS and withdrawal ttom NATO. T'hcir internatiOnal stance、 vas and is par‐

ticularly popular in Crete

priVatiSation progranl ainled at 780 state―

、 vhcre the tJS

01ympic Airways were irst On the list.The governnlent also cracked dOwn On tax eva‐ sion,、vhich is still so rife it's described as

the nation's favourite pastime.None ofMit― sotakis'refo:■ ris were pOpular in Crete al‐ though the prinle minister hiinself retained strong persOnal popularity. By late 1 992 corruptiOn allegations、 vere

naval base at Souda lBay is a regular target for prOtests.(二 〕 rete's history of foreign Oc_

being nlade against the government and it ヽ vas claimed that Mitsotakis had a large,

cupation has given islanders a strong an―

SeCret collcction of Minoan art, and in

tipathy to the presence Of fOreign troops in any、vaiy,shape,nlanner or fornl.

mid-1993 there were allegatiOns Ofgovern― ment telephone tapping.Fornler Mitsotakis

Aner seven years in governrnent, these promiSeS remained unful■ 1led(althOugh the

supporters began to cut their 10sses:in June

US milita,preSenCe WaS reduCed),unem‐ ployment、 vas high and reforrns in educa―

foreign rninister, founded the P01itical

1993 Antonis Samaras,the ND's former

tion and、 velfare had been limited.Women's

Spring pany and caned upon ND members tojoin him.SomanyOfthemjoinedthatthe

issues had fared bettcr,though: thc dO、

ND lost its parliamentary mttority and

vry

system 、 vas abolished, abortion legalised, and CiVil marriage and diVOrCeヽ Vere iFnple―

hence its capacity to govern An early electiOn、 vas held in October,in

inented.The crunch came in 1988ヽ vhen Pa‐ pandreOu's IOve affair 、′ ith air hostess Dimitra Liani(whOm he subsequently mar―

lヽ

ried)hit the headlines,and PASOK became

the ma」 Oriけ voting system,this translated

embroiled in a inancial scandal involving

which AndreaS Papandreou's PASOK pa■ y won with 47%of the vote against 39シ

6 for

ID)and 5(ン6 for Political Spring.´ hrough 「

into a handsOme parliamentary mttOrity for

PASOK.

the Bank of Crete.

In July 1989 an unlikely cOalition of

In light of 74-year― old Papandreou's

conservatives and cOrnrllunists tOOk over tO

heart condition and ailing health,the focus

implement aヵ α″αぉ′ s(campaign of purin_ CatiOn)tO inVeStigate the Scandal.In Sep‐ tenlber it ruled that lPapandreou and four

of political interest nO、 ′shilled to specula―

forrner rninisters shOuld be tried lor enlbez―

lived surrounded by his ministerial coterie offamily and friends.:He、 vas inally forced

zleinent,telephOne tapping and illegal grain sales.´ hc tria1 0f PapandreOu endcd in Jan‐ uary 1992 with his acquittal on ali counts. I｀

in Greek politics.

An election in 1990 brOughtthe NI:)back to pOWer With a mttOriり 。f Only tWO SeatS, Iく onstantinos

to step down as PAS()Ki leader in early 1996a■ er another bOut Ofill― health,and his death on June 26 1narked the end Of an era

The 1990s andヽvith

tion on the successiOn. IPapandreou 、 vas rarely sighted outsidc his villa, where he

Mitsotakis,a Cretan,

Papandreou's departure prOduced a dra― matic change of direction for PASOK,with the party abandOning his ie■ ― leaning p。 li―

as prime ministcr.lntent on redressing the

tics and electing ecOnOnlic relormer Clostas

country's econonlic problems_high inna_

Sinlitis as prime rninisten The new leader had been an OutspOken critic of PapandreOu and had been sacked as industiう ′rninister

tion and high governrnent spending― the governrncnt inlposed austerity nneasures,

28 Facts about Crete-16eography

Facts&Figures

cludes Gavdos lsiand, the nlost southerly

point in Europe,just 300km■ om A■ ica.

Crete has a population of 540,000

0vertwo mi‖

ion tourists visit Crete

each year 80%of tourists to the island are on package tours The annual turnover fronl the tourist sectoris about tJSSl.5 billion

Crete is 250km 10ng,about 60klm atits widest point and 12km atits nalTowest.Threc rnttOr

inountain groups― thc Lefka Ori(White Mountains)in the west,Mt Psilor s(also known as Mtida)in the centre and the Las‐ 4ountains in the cast ― deine the sithi ヽ n lor rllgged interior.The Lefka C)ri are kno、 ′ ∼

A one― bedroorTl house in Hania's()ld

their spectacular gorges,such as Samaria,as 、 vell as the snoM/that lingers on the nloun―

Town costs about 20,000,000 dr

tains、 vell into spring.The Onlalos Plain is in

There are 25 million olive trees

35C)O square kilornetres of land is de― voted to agriculture

the Lefka Ori at an altitude of 1000m.The Psi10ritis contains hundreds ofcaves,includ‐

ing the ldeon Andron Cave where Zeus al― legedly grew up,and the Rouva Forest on the

sOuthern slopes.The highest rnountain peak in crete is TimiOs Stavros at 2447m,pan of

four nlonths previously.He surprised nlany by calling a snap p01l in september 1996, and cainpaigned hard in stlpport of his`Mr

the Psiloritis Range.

Clean'image.He was rewarded with almost

lrlous Lassithi Plateau and Mt Dikti

vhich transiated into a 42シ 6 of thc vote, 、

(2148m)whose southem slopes preseⅣ e an

COmfortable parliamentary mttOriけ Sirnitis belongs to l■ uch the same school

exarnple of the lllagnincent forests that

.

of politics as Britain's´ 「 ony lBlair.Sincc he

・ 「 he:Lassithi Mountains harbour the fa‐

once blanketed the isiand.

ヽ′ estern Crete is the most mountainous

took po、 vet PASC)K policy has shifted right

and greenest part ofthe isiand while eastern

agrees、vith the op‐ tO the extent that it no、 ′

(:〕

position New Democracy on ali maJOr poト icy issues,including further integration with Europe and inonetaD′ union.With elections

rete tends tO be barren and rocky.Most of the interior is mountainous and nlarked by OHVe treeS,SCrub夕 み″ ッgα ″″ and Wild herbs. High upland plains are either culti―

scheduled to take place in 2000,Simitis is ith an aus― running into political trouble 、′ package designed to、 'hip(3reece into terit〉 ′ ∼ nscal shape to quali″ br monetary unlon by 2001.Securing the 2004 01yrnpic C)ames 、′ as an enormous coupう or Sirnitis bringing ∼

vated like the Lassithi Plain or used for pas―

a nOOd Of inoney into Greece for inlprove―

the nOrth border the 1046km coastline.

rnents to thc infrastructure.

There is only one lake on the isiand, Lake ´ Iく 。 urnas, Outside of Hania. 「 he populous northern cities of Hania,Souda,Rethyrnno, Iraklio and Mirabello 13ay are located on wide bays.

Although anti― Turkish sentiinent still runs strOng,the eanhquakes that siainmed ・ 「 urkey and Athens in 1999 prornpted an ex― change of relief、 vorkers that nlay herald a

thaw in relations bet、 vccn the tv′ o countries.

Relations with the tJnited States have

turing goats like the c)malos Plain.

′

rhe

largest cultivable area in the south is the fer― tile Mcsara lPlain、 vhich is about 40km iong

and up to 20krn、 vide. Steep nlountains in the south and gently sloping:η ountains in

CLIMATE

increasingly testy since the 1999

ith hot, Crete has aヽ .4cditerranean climate,Ⅵ ′

NATO bombardmentof Kosovo which was

vintcrs. With 300 dry sunlnlers and nllld 、

wildly unpopular in(3reece.

days of sunshine every year, it's the sunni― estisiand in theヽ lediterranean a■ er C:yprus. It also stays 、 varrn the longest of all the Greek isiands― you can swim offits south―

grO、 vn

GEOGRAPHY ([〕

rete is the largest island in the Greck archi―

pelagc)、 vith arl area of 8335'kllornetres.It in―

ern coast iom mid― Aprilto Novembe■

Facts about Crete―

IRAKL:0

Ecology&Environment 29

though the hugc influx of surnmer visitors entails tons ofrubbish.Most tourist areas are kept relatively rubbish-llee but in the intcr―

ior you wi1l oftcn bc trcated to the pungent

.RΠ

odour of garbage deconlposing in a dunlp. Crete's air and water outside the maJOr

EL

cities is clean but the flora and fauna are

under pressurc fiolll deforcstation. Olive cultivation, ■re、 vood gathering,shipbuild‐ ing, uncontrolled livestock breeding and ´

here's no rain at all in July and August and the sea temperature hovers at a comfort― I｀

ablc 25°

C.I)unng these rnonths,the mercury

can soa to 40° Cintheshadcjustaboutany‐ vν

here on the coast although the highlands

are rnuch cooler.July and August are also the inonths of the′ ηι′ ′ ガ,a strong northerly

`″ 、′ ind that swceps the castcrn coast of inain― land(]reece(including Athcns)through the Aegean isiands,the Cyclades and Crete.The 、 vind is causcd by air pressure differences bet、 veen No■ h Alrica and the Balkans.Thc Ⅵ′ ind is a nlixed blessing:it reduces hunlid_ ity,but plays havoc、 vith fenう ′SChcdulcs and sends cvelDrthing nying_lroin beach unl_

brellas to washing hanging out to dry. Be― t、

vecn May and August you nlay encounter

the sirocco wind which blows up■ om Attica bringing dust and sand.The air becomes stiF

arson over the centuries have laid、 vaste tO the forests that had carpeted the isiand at ´ one tillle.「 here is no tree replanting pro―

gram, pOSSibly beCauSe thC 90,000 80ats

living on the island would chew through the sapplings.´ he usc of pesticides and hcrbi‐ cides in farrning has climinated nlany bird l「

and plant species and hunting has deci― nlated the aninial population. Itis along Crctc's shorcline that environ― ヽ4arine life

rnental damagc is most acute.

has sufllered fronl the local habit of fishing

、 vith dynarnite and overdeveloprnent ofthe north coastis chasing a、 vay rnigratOry birds. VVorid、 vide concern has been roused for the plight ofthe loggerhead sca turtle,that nest

on the sarne sandy beaches that tourists prize.(〕α″ θ′ ′ α(〕α″ θ′ ′ αis the Latin narne for the turtle that has been nesting on Crete since the days ofthe dinosaurs.´ he beaches of Rethynlno,I‐ Iania and the Messara Gulf I｀

ling but fortunately the、 vind only lasts froin

in the south can host nrorn 500 to 800 nests

24 to 72 hours. ´ 「 he isiand begins to cool do、 vn in Sep― teinber and tllere is occasional rain. De―

each surnrnei Sadly,the ribbon of taverns and hoteis on the beachfiont has seriously

cclllbcr, January and Fcbruary are the

species. Because these bulky creatures are

rainiest months especially in the interiOr ′on the peaks rnountains,and there is sno、 、

so vuinerable on land, the fernales are

of the lLefka()ri.1｀ he clouds begin to lift in

and can refuse to lay eggs.When the hatch‐

March、 vhen the tenlperature is rnild enough to nlake outdoor activities such as hiking

disturbed the nesting habits of this ancient

iightened by OtteCtS On the beaCh at night lings enlerge at night they ind the sea by

through thc hilis a pleasurc.

the reflectiOn Of rnOOn and starlight but are easily disoriented by tavenl lights.

ECOLOGY&ENVIRONMENT

As tourism on lCrete has ballooned over the last two decades,the isiand has had to

Crete has not achieved a very high leve1 0f

cope with increasing dernands for electric―

environrnental awareness and envirOnnnen―

ity. Although thc powcr supply had long

tal regulation is practically non― existent.

been reliant on fossil fuels,(3reenpeace

Despite severe water sho■ ages in many parts of the island,you wili still see store―

vash the footpaths with keepers 、 1｀

、 vater.

here arc no recycling programs even

launched a nlaJor campaign in 1996 and persuaded the([〕 reek governlllent tO help build the world's iargest solar po、 ver plant

on Crete. When completed in 2003, the

30 Facts about Crete―

Flora(&Fauna

Loggerhead Turtles

Asal・ 1lle,a visit in March or April is the surest、 vay to sce the isiand in full flower

The Sea Turtle PЮ tection Society of Greece has the fo‖ owing advice for visitOrs:

but mountain plants and ■。wers onen bloorn later and late rains can alsO extend

the growing seasOn. Leave the beaches clear at night during the AAay to C)ctober nesting season Renlove unnbre‖ as and lounge chairs at night E)on′ t touch baby turtles on the way to the seai they nlust orient thernselves and the walk strengthens thern Urge hotel and tavern owners t。 cooperate with the sOciety and shade theirlights when necessary Dispose of rubbish properly:plastic

′ What you see depends upOn 、 、 hen yOu corne and、 vhere you are.Along the coast you'll conle across sea daffodils that■

0、

ver

in August and Septenlber,and knapsweeds on the west coast that nower in April and May.The purple or violet petals of stocks provide prett)′ Splashes of cO10ur On sandy

beaches frorn April to May. In eastern Crete, especially around Sitia, watch fOr crimson poppies on the borders ofthe beach

in April and May. At the edge of sandy

bags,mistaken by the turtles asje‖ yfish,

beaches that are not yet lined with a strip Of

are lethal

hoteis you'11 6nd delicate pink bindweeds and jⅦ ube trees tha nower iom May to June and bear nruit in septenlber and ()CtObeL In the SamC habitat iS the tarnariSk tree that flowers in the spring.

Fu■ her away金 oin the beach in the low―

lands are junipers and hOlrn Oak trces as vピ

些 些 由 些 些 些 瞼 餡 凸 凸 鰺

ell as I)。

ppies and purple lupins that

Лower in the spring. lf you come in the suinrner,you won't be deprived of colour since inilky whitc and nlagenta oleanders bloom■om June through August.

C)n the hillsides look for cistus and brooms in the early surnrner and in the

plantヽvill provide 50MW of solar po、 ver, which is enough pO、ver fOr ainlost 1 00,000 people.In order to encOuragc the installa_

nelds fabulous yellow chrysanthemums

tion of solar nlaterials the gOvernrnent has

on Crete. ヽlany varieties of orchids and ophrys bloorn in the spring on the lo、 ver

offered subsidics and tax deductions to

■o、 ver fiorn March to May. Orchid bufFs will find a 10t tO appreciate

busincsses and households. It is cxpcctcd that the cost of electricity will be 10w enough to rnake the Crete installation a

slopes ofthe nlountains turning thc hills and nleado、 vs bright with pink,purple and vio‐

prototype for othcr solar po、 ver pro」 ects in

vercd butterny orchids and cretan cyclantens are found on the Lassithi

the Mediterranean.

Plateau. Purple and crilmsOn anemOnes are found in thc same habitat in early spring followed by ye‖ ow butteК ups and crow‐

FLORA&FAUNA F:ora (1)ne of the rnaJOr attractions of a visit to Crete is the opportunity tO enJOy the ainaz‐ ing variety of plants and、

let nowers.Dense‐ nowered orchids,pink― fl。 、

vildnowers grow_

loots in iate spring.

Cretan mountainsides are■ agrant with the scents oforegano,thyine,sage and rose_

ing on the island.It has been estinlated that thcre are about 2000 species ofplants On the isiand and abotit 160 sipecies,of those are

mary. One of the isiand's nlore unusual

found only on Crete.

leaves with snlall pink flowers at the end.

herbS iS dittany rOr7gα ′″″ ′′ ι′ α″″クリ 、 vhich is covered with srnall, round, grey

Fadts about Crete― Government&Poiitics 31

E)runk as an herbaltea,dittany is reputed to be both an aphrodisiac and an abOrtOfacient. Its ability to induce an abortion if taken in large quantitics early in the ipregnancy has been scientillcally verifled.Its reputatiOn as

()ne of the more intriguing rare animals On Crete iS the力 ″´ ολαrわ S(Wild C饉 ).Shep‐ herds have been telling tales for centuries about the nlysterious wild cat but scientists assurned that the cat existed in legend Only.

an aphrodisiac is purely anecdotal.

The nrst indication that the cat inay have

Fauna

been rcal occull,ed in 1905 when a IBritish scientist bought t、 vO pelts at a rnarket in Iania.PrOOf Ofthe cat's existence Occurred

Bird life is varied On ([〕 rete and includes both resident and migratory species.Along

l―

in 1 996 when ltalian scientists studying Cre‐

the coast you'1l find birds of passage such

tan fauna lound the 5ン 生kilogram catin a trap

as egrets and herons during the spring and autumn migration.Various species Of gulls

one morning.It renlains unclear whether the cat was indigenous to the isiand Or whether it was a domesticated animal that ran wild. lo 3u■ her cats have been fOund.

nest on coastal cliffs and OflshOre islets.

Rare hawks migrtte up■ om Atica during the surnrner tO nest On the Oflshore isicts. Woodpigeons still nest in clifi磁 .a10ng the sea but have been hunted to near extinctiOn. The rnountains host a wealth Ofinterest‐ ing birds.Look for bluc rock thrushes,buz‐ zards and huge vultures such as the griffOn vulture.In the Sarnaria(〕 Orge you nlay spot the rare ′ α′ 2,′,,ι ″ ブ ″, Or bearded Vulture, igι θ now threatened、 vith extinctiOn.C)ther birds

in the nlountains include Alpine switts, stonechats,blackbirds and Sardinian war‐

blers.The nelds around Malia host tawny

1ヽ

Other mammals fOund On Crete include the indigenOus Cretan spiny mOuse and a large population of bats.

Natlonal Parks

´ 「 he only national park in Crete is the Sanlaria (〕 orgc, the largest and rnost im_ pressive gorge in Europe. It is 18km iong ′ and has a visitor's centre. 「 he Sarnaria く 〕orge is an important sanctuary for birds and animals;nO one lives in the gOrge.

an(l red‐ throated pipits,stone‐curlews,fan―

G(0)VERNMENT&POLITICS

talled warblers and shOn_tOed larks.(:)n the

Greece is a parliarnentary republic with a

hillsides bclow the Moni Preveli you rnay ind ruppell's and subalpine、 varblers.11｀ he Akrotiri Peninsula is a good place t0 1ook

president as head of state.It is divided intO regions and isiand groups.1「 he regions of

the nlainland are the Peloponnese,Central

for birds. Migrating species such as waders, cgrets and gulls are fOund On

Greecc(omcia‖ y caned Sterea Enada),

Souda IBay. Around the Agia Triada and

rhe isiand groups are the Cycladcs,IE)o‐ decanese,1ヽ Iorth‐ Eastern Acgean,Sporades

(E)ouvernetou rnonasteries yOu'11

lared and pied

■nd c01_

Πycatchers, wrynecks,

Epiros,´ rhessaly,Macedonia and・ 「 hrace. ´

and Saronic(3ult all in the Aegean Sea,

tav/ny pipits, black‐ eared wheatears, blue

and the lonian lsiands,vvhich are in the IOn‐

rock thrushes, stonechats, chukars and

ian Sea.The large isiands ofEvia and Crete do not belong to any group. For adininis― trative purposes these regions and groups are divided into 51 prefectures or nomes 脅ο″οノin Greek).Crete containsわ ur Of these: :し assithi, lraklio, :Rethyrnno and ´

northern wheatears. Mammallife on Crete is divided bet、

veen

livestock and endangered species. Sheep, goats,and co、 vs are treated with the respect appropriate to any nloney― nlakingi endeav‐

our but all other rnanlnlals have been hunted ferociOusly.Crete's most famous animal is the λ′ノλガ,or wild goat,Only a few of v′ hich survive in and arOund the Samaria(]orge.Apparently the aniFnal WaS nlore prevalent in Minoan tirnes and 、 vas onlen depicted in Minoan art.

I―

lania.

rhc island's capital and (〕 rcece's

ifth― largest city is lrakliO, with a pOpula‐

tion of127,600.As the island's capital until 1971, Hania considers itself the historical hearti ofthe island and Rethymno claiins to be its cultural centre.Rivalries between the prefectures are strOng as each cOmpetes for

32 Facts about Crete―

Economy

invcstnlent,tourism and,more recently,dis‐

Centuries of battling foreign occupiers have lent the isiand with a stubbornly inde_

pCndent Streak that SOrnetiFneS ieadS tO clashes with Athens.NATO bases on theis― ith the local popula‐ land are a sore pointゝ ′ tion、 vho would like to see them renlovcd despite foreign policy cornrnitnlents b)′

the■ rst phasc of European■ lonetary union

in 1999, but the govcrnrnent is confldent

tribution of the isiand's、 vater supply.

the

that it wi!l be ready forthe second phase. Agriculture and tourism are the t、 vin en‐ gines ofthe Crctan economy lcaving the is‐

land 、 vith an unemployrnent rate of only 5.5シ 6-alrnost halfthe national rate.C)lives,

olive oil,sultanas,、 vine,vegetables and fruit

arc prOduced in quantity for export. Al‐

national governnlent. National la、 vs that

though fewer pcoplc are、 vorking in agricul‐

conflict、 vith local custorns are simply dis‐

ture

rcgardcd.(1)uns are strictly regulated in

than in the post、 var period, inlprovenlents in roads and better tech―

rccce but ncarly evcry household in Crete

niques are allowing the outputto renlain the

(:〕

has at least one illegal irearnl and rnany harbour small arsenals. Politically,the island is nlore nloderate.

´ he dorninant ideology is ieft‐ of‐ centre with the socialist PASOK party repeatedly outdra、ving the conservative New I)enloc‐ racy parり ′in iocal and national elections. I｀

sarne an(l in some cases incrcase. Tburism has expanded to the point、 vhere it consti― tutes two― thirds ofthe Gross Regional Prod―

uct of Crete and provides enlployrnent to 40%of the island's workforce.´ he labour― I｀

intensive tourism sector draws seasonal workers iom mainland G“ ece,the EU and 、′ ork in hotels, restau‐ ∼

Extremists on either the right or lenl have

Eastern Europe to

little suppo■

rants,shops and bars.

.

POPULAT]ON&PEOPLE

ECONOMY ([〕

reece is an agricultural cOuntぃ /, but the

importance of agriculture to the economy

has declined rapidly since WWII. Sorne ′employed in orkforce is no、 、 500/6 ofthe、 ′ ∼

seⅣ ices(contributing

59%of GDP),22%

Crete is Greece's most populous isiand with

537,000 people.The population ngures of the island's ma」 Or cities are: Iraklio

(127,600), Hania(65,000), Rethymno (24,000),Agios Nikolaos(9000).ARer the

in agriculturc(contributing 1 5(る

),and 27(% in induStry and COnStruCtiOn(COntributing

exodus of the Turkish population in 1923 Crete became cthnically hoinogenous,con‐

26シ 6).Tourism

sisting sOlely Of(1)reek onhOdOx residents. Modern (1〕 retans are a rnixture of ali the

is byね r

the biggest indus―

try;shipping conles next.・

I｀

he eight million

tourists v/ho vlsit(3recce cach year con‐

races and cthnic groups that occupied them

tribute around tJSS3 billion to the econonly. Although lC}reece has the second‐ lo、 vest incorne per capita of all the EUI countries (aner Portugal),its econonlic nuture l。 。ks

over the centuries.

brighter now than it has for some time.The

the state system iom kindergarten to ter‐ tiary.Priina理 /schooling begins atthe age of six, but inost children attend a state‐ run kindcrgarten fronl the age Of ive. Private kindergartens are popular with those、 vho

econolΥ ly suffered badlyぅrom

the nghting

in the lBalkans in the early 90s,、 vhich cut recce's lllaJOr overland trade route to the

(1〕

rest of Europe. I)eace in the Balkans has done rnuch to restore business confidence.

EDuCバ T10N Education in Grcece is llce at all leveis of

The austerity lmcasures iinposed by succes‐

can afford thern. Primary school classes tend to be larger

sive governments also appear to have had

than those in most European countries―

the desired effect,、 vith inflation cut to sin‐

usually 30 to 35 children. Primary school

gle ngures(8.5%)お r the nrst time in 22

hours are sho■ (8 am to lpm),but children get a lot of honle、 vork.

years,and unernploynlent ofincially running

at 10,6 1ts economy is unlikely to be in good enough health to nlcet the criteria lor

′ グο″ρα gο イ 台ο″″′ン 〃

CRETAN ART

卜“ く ２ Ｃ Ｆ Ш α υ

34 Cretan A威

CRETAN ART One Of the greatiOyS Of ViSiting Crete iS diSCOVer― ing the sculpture,pottery,frescoes and icons that express thousands of years of(Eretan cuiture Frorn prehistoric pottery to 1 7th‐

century icons,Cretan

art has influenced and been influenced by the civil―

isations that have corne lnto contact with the istand.The interchange bel:、

′ ′ 、 een Crete,its colonies

and its conquerors has ieftl a profound impact on

the developrnent of Aegean culture Although there are fine museurns in all Crete's rnalor cities,lraklio's Archacological Museum has the best co‖ ection

of Cretan art from the prehistoric through the Ronnan eras

Title page:The wa‖

s

■ ︲ ︱   ︱︰ ，︰ ︰ ︰ Ｉ Ｉ

of the palace at

Knossos were adorned with frescoes,such as the ρ″ ′ es:κ′ ″gF″ θsε O′ whlch often deplcted religious ceremonies (photo by l― leracleion

Museum)

  ︱● ︰ ●   一一

Le■ :Theと a Par′ s′

,e θ″′

fresco is

one of the many that decorated the palace at Knossos

Cretan A蔵 ―Neo‖ thic&Early Minoan 35

ers of Crete butit appears

that they rnade crude and undecorated pottery Since the potter's ′ 、 へ heel had nOt yet been invented,the pots were sinlply baked in a fire resulting in uneven colouring.The first figurines depicted hunlan forrns

and we“

usua‖ y carved from stone.The male marble figurine fOund

at Knossos is a good example of this early style that seems related to

sinlilar figurines in the(]yclades. Pottery technique advanced in the early Min()an years.Spirals and curvilinear motifs in white were painted

on dark vases and several distinct styles ernerged.Pyrgos pottery was characterised by black, grey or brown cO10urs and, later On, vlasiliki

pOttery,made near!erapetra′ diSplayed POlyChrOme surfaces.Gold, S‖

Ver and brOnZe ieWe‖ ery and daggerS were finely craied and fore―

ShadOヽ ヽ ′ ed the later aChieVennents of Minoan art.

Protopa:atial PeriOd The fOunding Of the first Minoan palaces On cirete in 2000 BCi coincid― ed With the prOduCtiOn Of the So― ca‖ ed Kanlares POttery in the wOrk― Shops of Knossos and PhaestOs Narrled a・ たerthe cave at Kamares where the pOttery 、 ″as first found, this elegant, beautifu‖ y crafted potery

f10uriShed during the entire Middle Minoan periOd.Cups,spOuted iars and Pithoi(large Minoan stOrage jars)could now be pЮ

duced quickly

with the inventiOn of the pc)tter's wheel.The use ofthe wheel alsO gave

a new crispness to the designs The sty‖ sed mOtifs were derived from plant and nnarine life and were balanced with curvilinear abstract pat―

terns The finely vvOrked designs vvere usua‖ y painted in vvhite, red, orange and yello、 へ ′on black or grey backgrounds. The most striking pottery was the′ eggshe‖ 'vases characterised by extremely thin wa‖

Kamares pO■ elγ 、 ″as exPOrted tO cyprus,Egypt and the Levant

Right:The finelyゃ 、 ′ orked designs of the Kamares style balanced plant and nlarine life with abstract patterns as seen in this

po■ery vase

s.

ン 濶﹁

lNleOiithic(&Ear!v IMinoan Periods Littie iS knOWn about the Ne61ithic cave dwe‖

卜“く ２ くいШ“Ｕ

36 Cretan A威 ―Neopa:atia!

c)ther cra■ s also reached a high degree Of anistry during this period

using semi― precious stones and clay,artisans rnade ininiature master― ″hich sornetirnes contained hiero― pieces Out of carved sealstones 、

glyphic letters. The exquisite bee pendant found at Malia displays eXtraOrdinary deliCaCy and imaginatiOn in ieWe‖

ery making・

Neopa:atia:Period Fronl 1700 to 1400 BC MinOan civilisatiOn reached its'golden age'.Al―

thOugh frescO painting prObably existed before 1 700 B(l,all remnantS were destrOyed in the cataclysnl that destroyed Minoan Palaces around that date.The palace at iく nossos yielded the richest trove of frescoes

frorn the Neopalatial period. Although only fragrnents survive, they

′ were 、 ery

carefu‖ y restored and the technique of using plant and

mineral dyes has kept the colours relatively fresh.The subjects reflect the full variety of Minoan experience and influenced wall paintings on

the 16reek mainland. Landscapes rich with animals and birds, marine life tearrling with fish and octopus, banquets,garnes and rituals are rendered with vivid naturalisnn.(3riffins are repeatedly represented in― )n.Min〈 )an fresco

dicatinglthat they may have had a protective functiく

painters bOrrowed heavily frorn certain Egyptian conventions― nlen's but the figureS skin Was brOn2e and WOmen'S WaS White,fOr eXample―

Top Left:This fine piece

are far less rigid than most Egyptian wall paintings.

ing加 o bees dropping

Pottery also flourished in the Neopalatial era.ln the early years there was the nlarine style and a floral style that refiected the same thernes

Of g。 ld ieWe‖ ery depiCt‐

honey into a cornb was found at Malia.

Cretan Art― Neopa:atia1 37

Top ieft:This∂ ι ′ 〃ζ′ ィθad stone rhyton is an exarnple ofん へ inoan pottery、 vhlch often tOOk the shape of animal's

heads Top right:The falence figurine Of the sna々 e gο ddθ ss.which was

found at Knossos,is a fine example ofん へ inOan

Middle:G ri「 ins were be‖

■﹀ 一■

sculpture

‐ ■ tあ〆 、、′ ど ｀■ 二、 1拳 ≦≧

澪多イ ■‐

:■

cvcd tO Oier

protection against invaders and、 vere Often used ln,vヽ inOan frescOes

・‐‐■

==ミ

The 6″ κ′ ″Frescο was found in the Throne Roorrl at Knossos Bottorn:ハ ムlnoan frescoes o「 ered landscapes rich with animal life,as can be seen in the

Dο /ρ ん′ ″F′ θscο

J● 二IⅢ

11■

― ・・

卜にく ２く卜Шαυ

38 Cretan Art― Neopalatial

as the eraゝ frescoes.()ctopuses,do!phins and fish appeared on sorne pottery wh‖ e others showed f!owers,leaves and branches along with religious symbols. ln contrast to ear‖ er po■ ery the decoration was often in dark colours such as bro、

′ へ n and rust painted on light back―

grounds.After 1500 BIC,vases spouted three handles and were fre― quently shaped as anirnal heads_The stOne rhytOn in the shape Of a bull's head is a particu!arly fine example frolnn this peri()d.

The art of sealstone can′ ing also advanced in the palace workshops. Knossos,Zakros and Agia Triada、 ″ere the nlost productive.Natural:s― tic suttects such as gOats,liOns and gririns were rendered in minute detall on hard stones, usua‖ y in an alnlond shape.AAinoan sculptors

also created fine idols in falence, gold, ivory bronze and stone.The

Lei:The Ha″ este` ν(ase ls one of three celebrated vases found at the snlalI Minoan site

of Agia Triada

Serpent gOddess in falence(tin‐ giazed earthenvvare)is one ofthe mOst outstanding surviving exanlples.

Post Palatial PeriOd The SeCOnd CataC!yslγ l of 1750 that destroyed Minoan palaces saw the deC‖ ne of Minoan culture.The lively marine p01」 :ery of previOus centuries degenerated intO du‖ rigidityハ ″hether beCauSe OfleSS trade with Egypt

or the loss Of the palace workshoPS,frescOes becarne uninsPired_The pЮ dudiOn OfieWe‖ ery and SealStones was rep:aced by the pЮ ductiOn Of WeapOnry refieCting the influenCe Of the warlike Myceaneans.

Dorian&Roman Periods There WaS a brief artiStiC renaiSSanCe On Crete that!aSted frOnn the 8th

to the 7th centuries Bc.A new movementin sculpture emerged ca‖ ed the Daeda‖ C rnOVement after a SCu:ptor ca‖ ed Daedalos.Although the existence Of this scu!ptor is uncertain,it is clear that a grOup of sculp―

tOrS Called the E)aedalids perfected a new technique of nlaking

Right:The hieroglyphic :nscription on the

famous P力 aε sD′ sc, `ゎ ο fOund iuSt nOrth f the palace at Phaestos,has yet to be deciphered

∩ 力 ｍ ↓＞ ２ ＞ ”↓

Cretan Art― POSt Paiatia1 39

卜に く ２ く 卜 Ш α Ｕ

40 Cretan Art― Byzantine&Venetian

scu!pturesin harnnlered bronze.They worked in a style that cornbined Eastern and(lireek aesthetics and their influence spread to nlainiand cireece.cretan culture、 ″ent intO decline again at the end of the 7th

century BC. There was a brief revival under the Rornans, rnainly notab!e for the richly decorated rnosaic fl()ors and nlarble scuipture such as the colossa:statue ofノ

ヽ Po‖ o.

Byzantine l&Venetian Periods Although Byzantine icons and frescoes were created frOnl the earhest years of Byzantine rule rnuch was destroyed in the rebe!lions ofthe 13th

and 14th centuries.ln the llth century,emigres fronl Constantinople brought portable icons to Crete but the only surviving example from this periOd iS the iCOn(Df the Virgin at MesOpantitissa,novv in Venice.Frorn the 13th to the early-1 6th centurles,churches arOund Creteヽ

″ere

dec―

Orated with frescoes― rriany of which can stil: be seen. Byzantine art へ ′ ered under the Palaeologan erγ lperors who ruled from 1258 to fl。 、 1453,and its influence spread to Crete.The great icon painter of the 14th century was loannis Pagomenos who worked inヽ Vest Cに ヒ .

With the fa‖

of Constantinople in 1453 many Byzantine attsts fied to

Crete_At the same time,the ltanan Renaissance was in full bloom and tan schooF many cretan artists studied in italy The result was the iCκ oficon painting that combined technica!bri‖ in Hania alone theЮ

iance and dramatic richness.

were over 2oo painters working fЮ

m the mid‐ 16th

to口 nid‐ 17th centuries who were equa‖ y at ease in Venetian and Byzan‐

tine styles.The cretan Theophanes sterntzas painted monasteries throughout Gireece that spread the techniques of the Cretan school.

Too few exarriples of the Cretan school are on display in Crete but visitOrs tO lrakliO are fOnunate tO have the church and museunl ofメ

gia ヽ

Ekaterini.Six Portable icons frOm the great Michael Damaskinos,the finest exponent of the Cretan school,form the centreplece of the coト duCed him to new iection.Damaskinos'long solourn in Venice intЮ techniques of rendering perspective,vvhich he brought to the Byzan― tine style of icon painting.

Facts about Crete― Arts 41

′`ル ο″ρα gι J″ ″ο″″″′′

たαs′ ″プ ″οs

and

′ ,2α ′ ον′z′ ο′ ノ たο, also fast

dances,and thc sο 〃s′α dancc lor couples At 12,children entcr the gア ′ η″αS,ο ,and at

Each region Of〈 ]reece has its o、 vn dances,but one dance1/Ou'1l see perforined every、 vhcre is theた α′ α″,α ′ ′ α′οs,originally

tranCc exanlinations. Although there is a high percentage Of literacy, lmany parcnts

tion system, especially beyond priinary ・ level 「 hc private sectOr therefore flour― ishes, and evcn relativcly poor parcnts

fronl Kalalmata in thc Pe10pOnnese.It's the dancc in、 vhich dancers stand in a row with their hands On One anOther's shoulders Singing and the playing Of nlusical in― strunlents havc also been an integral part Of line in Greece since ancient times Cycladic

strugglc tO send their children to One Of the

igurines hOlding inusical instruments re―

county's5000′ ο″′ s′ 7″ ′ α(intensive

Senlbling harps and nutes date back to 2000 BC. lusical instruments of ancicnt Greece

15 they may leave sch001, or enter the ケたαο,'Om Where they take university en‐

and pupils are dissatisfied with the cduca_

coach―

ing coneges)to prepare thcmぉ r the vew competitive univcrsity entrance exanls. (:〕

rievances rcached a pcak in 1991, whell

lykeio studcnts stagcd a scries of sit―

ins in

schools throughOut thc cOuntry,and organ― iScd protest marches. In 1992, gynlnasiO pupils follo、 ved

suit, and the government

responded by calling for stricter discipline

and a inOre demanding curriculunl.A■ inOre sit―

er

ins the govcrnrnent changed its

plans and is still rcasscssing thc situation.

inCluded the lyrC, lute, ′j々 ′

ル・ο″″′Zα (a pCrCuSSiOn inStrumCnt),た 'S (pipeS), 〃力α′α (a StringCd instrumcnt),α ン′οS(a Wind in―

Strument),bα ′bル οS(Similar tO a vlolin Ce‖ 0)and the″ αgα ´ ο (Similar tO a harp). If ancient(〕 rceks did nOt havc a rllusical

instrument tO accolllpany thcir sOngs,they ilTlitated the sound ofone.It is l)elievcd that

unaCC011lpanicd Byzantine choral singing derived fi‐ Onl this custorn.

Thc bο ン′ο″た,, hcard cvcry、 here in ∼

ARTS detailcd look at the histOry Of art in Crete

reece,is a rnandOlin― like instrulllcnt.It is one of the rllain instrurnents of″ ο ′ ″ ,ι ο ′ ′ たα !Υ)usic― the(3reek equivalent Ofthe Alller―

Music&Dance

iom the Turkish word rι ″ιι′which means

ln addition tO its Own traditiOnai nlusic and

Outlav/.()piniOns differ as to the origins Of

([〕

Sce the `Cretan Art' special section lor a

ican Blues.The name rembctika may come

danccs, Crete incOrporatcs inusic and dancc fronl all over Grcccc. Thc fOlk danccs of today derive frOnl the ritual dances perforllled in ancient Greek tenl― ples.()ne ofthese dances,tlle sン ア′ οS,is de― picted on ancient Greck vases, and there arc rcferences to dances in HOmer's wOrks.

Homer commented On thc ab‖ ity of Crctan danCCrS,Which werc oten depicted in Min― oan frescocs.

Many lCireck lolk dances, including the syrtos, arc pcrfOrnled in a circular fOrnla― tiOn.In ancient tinles,danccrs lorrned a cir―

cle to seal themselves off 'om evil influcnces [)ancing has al、 vays bcen a largc part Of

retan CClebratiOns. In addition to Greck danCeS Cretans dancc the′ θ′οzα ノ ノ s, a cir― ([〕

,′

cle dance inv。 lving illale dancers leaping tO a fast beat.(:)ther(E〕 retan dances include thc

The bOuzOuki is One of the nlain instrunlents used in rmbet′ 々 a music

42 Facts about Crete―

Atts

rcinbetika, but it is probably a hybrid of

betika)in Mikis Theodorakis and Manos

several different types ofnlusic.()ne source

I―

、 vas the nlusic that ernerged in the 1 870s in thC`loW liた 'CatS,Ca‖ ed′ θグa,(haShiSh `た dCnS),in urban arCaS and CSpCCially arOund

latzidakis.1｀he best of´「 heodorakis'work

is the musicヽ VhiCh he Set tO the pOetry Of

Persian nlusic playcd in sophisticatcd Mid―

Scfcris,Elytis and Ritsos.During the junta vcrc closcd years, nlany rcnlbctika clubs 、 d()、 vn, but interest in gcntlinc rembetika revived in the 1980s― particularly anlong

dlc Eastcrn music cats脅 ″α′ιグ′り

students an(l intellectuals.

ports. Anothcr source

、 vas

thc Arabo― in the

1 9th century.Renlbetika、 vas popularised in

In Crete,music is wovcn into thcね

bric

Greece by the renugees iom Asia MinOL

ved― of everyday life and acconlpanies 、

The songs that einerged ionl the tekedes had themes conccrning hashish,prison life, ganlbling,knife nghts etc,、 vhereas cafc

dings, bilths, deaths, holidays, harvesting

music of the refugees,■ om which a sub―

and simply relaxing.The main instruments arC thC夕 ″ α,WhiCh iS SimilartO a V101in and hiCh iS playCd like the cight― stringedノ ン ′ ′,ヽ ′ ∼ a guitar.One of Crete's favourite forms of ″α″ιs, impro― lllusical expression is″ α″′ ノ

culture of rebels,called′ ηα″gθ s,einergcd.

vised couplets of 30 syllables that exprcss

The rnanges wore sho、vy clothes even

the agc― old concerns oflove,death and the

though they livcd in cxtrcnlc povcrty.They workcd long hours in menialjobs,and spent

vagaries of fate. Probably originating as I()ve songis in 15th― ccnturン ′Vcnice, thou―

their cvenings in the tekedes, smoking

sands of nlantinades helped forge a sense of national identity during thc long centuries of Occupation Since the verses are iinpro―

ainan nlusic had thenles that centred around erotic love.1「 hese ali came together in the

hashish and singing and dancing.Although hashish was illegal,the law、 vas rarely en― おrced until Metaxas did his clean― upjOb in 、 /as in a tekedes in Piraeus that 1936. It 、

Markos Vanlvakaris,no、 v ackno、 vledged as

vised,`rhymers'at Cretan festivals talor the songs to the people present atthe event and try to outdo each other in skill.

a

zル ′ たα which Another popular forrn is″ ′

rccording coinpany in the 1930s. Mctaxas' censorship nleant that thenles of hashish, prison, ganlbling and thc likc disappcared fronl recordings of renlbetika in the late 1930s, but continued clandes‐ ´ tinely in sorlle tekedcs. 「 his polarised the

are centuries― old songs■ olm thc Lcfka C)ri

the greatest relη betis,was discovercd b)′

nlusic,and the recordings,strippcd of their

`meaり 'themeS and language,bCCame in― sipid and bourgeois; rccordcd renlbetika ″ αノ たο′ cven ad()ptcd another nalile― ′ `2.gο ```カ ーtO disassOciate it iolll its i‖ egal roots.Al― VII brought a halt to recording,a thoughヽ Vヽ number of composers emerged atthis timc They includcd Apostolos Kaldaras,Yiannis

that derived fronl the songs of the border guards of the 13yzantine Empire. ´

rhcre are twO kinds Of rizitika_′

αッ′ α

(table)SOngS that aCCOnlpany feaStS and S′ ′ α′ α

(rOund)SOngS WhiCh aCCOmpany

travellers. Many of the rizitika songs deal ′ 、 、 ith historical or hcroic thcmes.()ne ofthe lllost popular is thc songl of I)askal〈

)giannis,

the Sfak:ian hero who lcd thc rebellion ‐ ´ he song has against the 「 urks in 1770. I・

1034 verses and is still sung throughout Sfakia.

PapaToanou,Gcorgos Mitsakis andヽ 4anolis

Literature

Hlotis,and one ofthe greatest imale rem― bctika singers,Sotiria Be‖ ou,also appearcd

Crete has a rich literary tradition that

at this time

verses and、 vord play. In the late 16th or

[)uring the 1950s and 1960s rcinbetika bccaine increasingly popular, but lcss and vas less authentic. ヽ4uch of the music 、 glitzy and conl:1lercialised, although the

early 1 7th centuries, Crete had a trenlcn― ienetian rule. vering under dous literary n。 、 vas un― The era's greatest rnasterpiece 、

sprang fronl the Cretan lovc of songs,

period also produced two outstanding corn―

οた″′ ′ οs、vrit― doubtcdly the cpic poenl E,ο ′ ten by Vitzentzos Iく ornaros of Sitia.More

pOSerS Of pOpular muSiC(inCluding rem―

than 10,000 1ines long,this poel■ of courtly

FaCtS abOut Crete―

SOciety&Conduct 43

lovc is fu1l ofnostalgia fOrthe dying Venet‐

can or British.Thc c〕

ian rcgirne that、 vas threatcncd by the rise

the doldrums, largely due tO inadequate

in Turkish power.The pOenl、 ア as rccitcd for

govcrnrnent nunding.´ 「 hc problenl is corn_

centuries by illiterate peasants and profes‐

sional singcrs alike,cmbOdying thc dreams of frccdOnl that enabled(Cretans to endure their nlany privations,Many ofthe verscs ′ ヽ ヽ ere incorporated intO Crete's be10ved nlantinades.

Greece's bcst‐ knOwn

writer sincc

Homer is Nikos Kazantzakis,born in irak‐ lio in 1883 anlid the last spasins Of Crcte's struggle for indcpendence lronl the・ rurks.

EduCated as a la、 yer in Athens and

∼ abroad,Kazantzakis continued his studies at the sOrbOnne in Paris. His inrst works ヽ Vere traVel books on a variety of Euro―

rcck nlm industlγ is in

pOunded by the type of ilrns the(Grceks produce which have a reputation for being

slow mOving,10aded with symbolism and genera‖ y tOO avant― garde tO have mass ap‐

peal,despite being wel卜 made、 vith sOme outstanding cinematOgraphy. Greecc's inost acclaimed■ lm director is ・ 「 heodoros Angelopoulos,、vhOse■ lms in_ clude 71カ ι」 Bセ ′ 々′θ ο″,И ′ ′ χα′′ ″′ 力ιG″ ′α′ l′ ′ ルαヽ 0′ ′ ノ ,2g P′ α 力′」 %お ′ ッ ,Zα ″αSι α ριS′ ″′ `澪 and r″ ο〃′s′ ′ α′′ ′ο′′ ″οS′ ο″ たAll have ￨′

received awards at 'ο bOth natiOnal and intcr‐ national festivals.

pean, Middle East and eastern destin―

SOCI■ TY&CONDuCT

ations. He then began transiating classics into nlodern Greek and wrote his Own epic poem,五カι O′ツSSιツ,a sequel to HOmer's ´ original. 「 hroughOut his career this pro― 11:Rcヽ vriter produced 12 novels,22 plays,

Traditional Cuiture

nine SCreenplays,a history of Russian lit―

eraturc, three philosOphical studies and hundreds Ofarticles.1-Iis best― knoν vn novel in Greece is F″ ι ο″, ο/ 21)ι α′ 力、 vhich `グ deals with the l｀ urkish Occupation but his international fanle rests upon Zο rら αr力 ο (:)″ ο ιた,a lively portrait Of Crete and the ir― repreSSible free spirit lZorba. Although

Zorba is an engaging and unforgettable character, the authOr's undisguised rnis‐ Ogyny has not worn、 vell.Kazantzakis、 vas

Proud, patriOtic, hOspitable and religious, today's Cretan's strOng cOnnection to their

ancestors is apparcnt as sOOn as you leave the nla,or tourist centres.Mountain villages are repositories of traditiOnal culture and

you'1l ind that inOst Oldcr wOmen and many nlen are still clad in black garb.I)ur― ing、 vcddings

and festivals even young men

don black b00ts, shirt and baggy pants, tucking a pistOl intO thcir belt to be ■red into the air as the evening、vears On. (I)ne of thc rnOre rernarkable features of Cretan life iS the abiliう ′Of the iSianderS tO

Nights of the Undead

nOrninated Several tirnes for the Noble Prize and bOth zο ″bα ′ ヵ。〈 :,″ ′ ι々and irlヵ ιαS′ ル″″ α″ο′9′ C″ お′were made into`

movies.His tOmb in irakliO is inscribed 、′ ith his quotation: `I hOpe fOr nOthing. I

tar nothing.lam ice.'

Iraklio may have Kazantzakis but Rethymno has Pandclis Prevelakis.Born in Rcthymno in 1900,Prcvelakis also studied in Athens and at the Sorbonne. Prinlarily kno、vn as a pOet, IPrevelakis also 、 vrote plays and nOvels. 1‐ lis best― known、 vOrk is

賜 ι物′ ιο′α乃″″about Rethymn。

.

Film Cretans are avid cinenla― goers, althOugh mOSt Of the■ lms shown are North Ameri―

,

As though hazardsilke wars and vendettas weren't frightening e1lough,。

lder Cretans

beheved they were also sublect to vam― pires ca‖ ed ソ ′々ο′ a々 as. Suicides, unbap― tised children and excornrnunicates could ali become′ ′ y々 0′ a々 a,Every night,except Saturday, these fiesh― eating ghOuis al― )′

legedly rOanled the hi‖ s searching for vic―

timsin remote mOuntain vi‖ ages.Vi‖ agers said that if the vampire's blood touched you it would burn through yOur skin.The only way a′ γ々ο′ atts could achieve final rest was being hit by lightning Or cOn― sunled by fire

■■

44 Facts about Crete―

Society&ConduCt

Cretan Knives (liven the isiand's unruly history, it's not surprising that Ciretans have a highly developed

″hite― tradition of cutlery Traditlonal Cretan dress for nlen always includes a knife,often ヽ nives have acquired handled,as part of the standard black shirt,trousers and b()ots outfit l〈 a pOwer that borders on the rnystica1 01der Cretans believe that knives made during Holy vVeek offer protection from evil spirits.ln eastern Cirete,it's considered bad luck to lgive a knife

as a present while in western(二

rete,it's consldered good luck for the best rnan or godfather

at a wedding to be presented、 ″lth a knlfe Althc)ugh the Aハ inoans certalnly produced knlves,the current rnethod probably developed under Turkish rule At that time,the handles were nlade fronl buffalo hOrn or mountain goat antlers but since horns have becorne rarer′

cutlers sometimes use cattle bく )nes tJnfortunately,

cuStOrnerS are a150 beCOrning nnOre SCarCe and the CutlerS'Craft lS S10Wly diSappearing

A good Cretan knife is hard to find nOW but yOu can always rnake yOur OWn.Here'S how: 1 2

1f you don't have a goat horn,get a good siab of cattle bone Boilit for 4 to 5 hoursin water,ashes and lirne

3

Carve it into shape

4. Forge a stainless steel blade Wlth a single edge 5. Emboss the knife with designs Or a verse from a″ ,antア ′ade. んへake sure to cutit when the rnoon is 6. Flnd sorne oleander wood for the sheath waning orit wi‖ soon be oozing worms. 7

Spht the wood in the middle and carve out the interior to fit the blade. 〈 8 =ut a thin plece ofleatherinto shape and iglue it to the sheath 9. Flt handle`blade and sheath together,tuck lt into your blaCk trousers and look for sorne ra々 ブ

鸞 立 些 自 立 巾 凸 聰 nlaintain nlany aspects of their traditional culturc in the face ofa scasonal invasion of foreign tourists.Cretans have learned to co― cxist partly by operating in a dificrent tinnc―

spacc cOntinuunl than their guests. Frolll April to around()ctober,the isianders live in the hurly‐ burly ofthe coastal resorts run‐

return tO thcir traditional llle in the hills 10r

the autunln olive and grape harvest.Tlourists eat early in the evening in rcstaurants along ′ hile Cretans drive out a harbour or beach、 、 to a village taverna for a dinncr that begins

Men

Vё stern ll pnl. I)ance clubs play ヽ vhen the(:〕 reek until around 3 arn 、 arrives and the lllusic switches to or Greek music. vornen also occupy diflerent and 、

sphcrcs.ヽ Vhell llot tcnding livestock or olivc trees,C〕 retan nlen can usually bc found in a

た9/b′ ′′ οplaying CardS and drinking COffeC

T― T

‐ I T― ―

‐

Tll・ m‐

TΠ

l l

l l

vonlen 、 vho are usually occupied Cretan 、 、′ ith houscvvork and child rearing. In thcir ith vorncn btisy thcrnsclves 、 Off― hOurs, 、 ∼ sewing,crocheting or enlbroidery,。

nien in a

′ ards ∼ the `prOper role' for、 vonlen are changing, vork― vonlen enter the 、 howevcr, as nl()re 、 oinen.(Dld atitudes to、 circle OfOther、 ′

∼

ning shops,pensions or tavernas and then

around nlusic cro、 vd Cretan

. Although exceptions are inade lor or″ α々」 fOreign wornen, kafeneia are off-11lnits tO

i

lorce Young Cretan wornen have discarded shapcless drcsscs in favour of skin― tight siacks and are nlore likely to be found in a discO than bchind a loorn.Friction has dc― vcloped bet、 vcen the older gcneration and a yOunger generatiOn n10re attuned to lEuro―

pcan influences Fortunately the ell,ploy― nlcnt OppOrtunities brought by the tourist

business has discouraged young people nrorll leaving the isiand,thus a110、 ving thclll tO retain atleast a norninal contact、 vith thcir parcnt's culture.

I… T 可 T

TrT「

T‐

'=日

■

■

日

Facrts about Crete― Religion 45

Dos&Don'ts

The main threat tO animal welfarc is

lfyOu go intO a kafeneio,taverna or shop,it iS CuStOrnary to greet the waiters or assistants

With`た α′ ′ ″′″ α'(goOd day)。 r`たα″SP′ ″ α (g00d eVening).PerSOnal questions are not considered rude,so prepare to be inundated Ⅵith queries abOut yOur age,salalう ′ ,rnarital '

status etc,and to be given syrnpathy if yOu are over 25 and not rnarried!

cretans have a well」 ustined reputation for hOspitality.The tradition was tO treat

strangers as hOnOured guests and invite them for coffec, a rnea1 0r tO spend the night.()bviously Cretans are n0 10ngcr of‐ fering i[ee food and 10dging tO several nlil―

hunting.(〕 retan hunters are notorious for blasting anything that n10ves,and rnilliOns ofaninlals are killed during the long`open'

season,6roin 20 Augustto 10 March,which encompasses the bird migratOry periOd.The

Henenic Wildlife Hospital(奮 0297‐ 22 882),on the island Of Aegina,repons that 80%ofthe animals ittreats have been shot. R■ LIG10N About 9896 of(3reeks belong to the(3reek Orthodox Church.Most ofthe remainder are eithcr Roman Catholic,Jcwish Or Muslinl. The Greek()■ hOdOx Church is ciOsely re‐

lion tourists a year butifyou、 vander offthe

lated to the Russian Orthodox Church and tO―

beaten track into mountain villages yOu nlay be invited to sOrneone's horne. If

gether with it forrns the third‐ largest branch

you're served a giass of、 vatet COffee and SOme preserves itis the custonl tO irst drink

the water then eat the preserves and then drink the cOffee.When visiting someone,it

ofChristianity.OnhodOx,meaning`right be_ lief',was founded in the 4th century by COn_

stantine the Great,ぃ ′ ho was cOnve■ ed to

they'11 0ffer you.、 r10u nlay fcel uneasy,es_

Christianity by a visiOn Ofthe CЮ ss. By the 8th century,there、vere a nunlber of difllerences Of Opinion behveen the pope in Rorne and the patriarch ofConstantinoplc,as

pecially if:/Our host is poor,but dOn't of―

well as increasing rivallγ

tnd them by omering money.Givc a gin,

(E)ne dispute ヽ vas Over the wording of the

perhaps to a child in the family,instead. Ifyou go Out fOr a meal with Cretans,the

Creed. The original Crced stated that the H。 ly Spirit proceeds `fronl the Father', ′ 、 へ hich the ()rthOdOx (3hurch adhered to, whereas Rorne added`and the Son'.Another

is bad nlanners to refuse the cOfFice or raki

billis not shared but rather paid by the host.

When drinking wine,only half■

and dOn'tletit beCOme empけ ([〕

1l the glass (a nO― nO).

retans have a 10ng tradition of、

velcorn‐

ing foreigners v/hich has nlade them toler―

ant Of different custorns. Although (]reek women are unlikely to gO tOpless, in n10st places top!ess sunbathing is a1lo、 ved. ・ he 「 few south coast beaches where itis iowned upon post signs tO that effect.

bone ofcontentiOn cOncerned the celibacy of the clergy. Rorne decreed priests had tO be

celibate; in the()rthOdOx Church, a priest

could marry befOre he becarne ordained_

´ 「 here were also difllerences in fasting:in the Orthodox Church,nOt Only was meat forbid― den during Lent,but M′ ine and Oil、 ′ ere also. By the llth Century theSe diffキ erences had pope and the patriarch excOrnnlunicated One

The(Cretan attitude to aninlals depends On 、 vhetherthe anirnalis a cat Or nOt.It's dein― itcly cool to be a cat.Even the mangiest‐

looking stray can be assured of a warrn elcome and a choice tidbit on approaching the restaurant table of a(:〕 reek.ヽ4ost other vレ

′ ith a certain

indiflierence or put to work.Most shepherds

have dogs for guarding the inock but they are treated poOrly,Often chained tO a pOst for days and fed inadequately.

the t、vo.

beCOnle irreconcilable, and in 1054 the

Treatment of Anima:s

dornestic aninlals are greeted,ぃ

bet、 veen

anOtheL Eiver since,the tヽ Vo have gone their

own ways asthe(Greek/Russian)0■ hodox Church and the Roman Catholic Church.

During Ottoman times membership Of the()nhOdOx church was One Ofthe n10st important criteria in deining a(3reck, re‐ ´ gardless of v′ here he Or she lived. he

「 ChurCh Was the principal upholder ofGreek culture and traditiOns.

Cο ′ ″″ ′ ′ο″ραg′ jθリ

“

“

46 Mythology

MYTHOLOGY Mythology was an integral pan:of life in ancient tinnes.The myths are accounts of the lives of the

deities whom the Greeks worshipped and of the heroes they idolised. The rnyths are alithings to all people― a ripping

good yarn,expressions of deep PSychologicalinsights,words of spine― tingiing poetic beauty and food forthe irnagination They have inspired

′ ′ great literaturer art and music― as、 へ ell as the odd T∨ sho、 へ The myths we know are thoughtto be a blend of[)orian and Myce― naean nlythology Most accounts derive frorn the、 ″orks of the poets HeSiOd and HOrner produCed in about 900 BIC The Original:η ythS haVe

been chopped and changed countless tirnes― dramatised, nloralised ind even adapted fOr ancient pOlitical prOpaganda― so nunnerous ver― sions exist.

■力ε6Fe々 ル!yめs by Robert Gravesis regarded as being the ultimate ,′ ε 。″。crasι on the sublect lt can be heavy going`though ハ′ Gυ de tOめ e Cree々 GOds by Maureen O'Su‖ ivan makes more enter―`

b。 。k

taining reading.

The Twelve:)eities The nlain characters of the myths are the 12 deities who lived on Mt C)lynlPus― which the Greeks thought to be at the exact centre of the worid.

The supreme deity was Zeus,who was also god ofthe heavens.His iOb WaS tO make laWS and keep hiS unruly family in Order by bran― dishing his thunderbolt.He was aiso the possessor of an astonishing hbidO and Vented hiSluSt On iuSt abOut eVeryOne he Came aCЮ SS,in― cluding his own rnothen Mythology is littered with his offsPring.

Zeus was rnarried to his sister.

Hera,the protector of wornen and the fam‖ y.Hera was able to renew her virginity each year by bathing in a spring.She was the nlother of Ares,

Hephaestus and Hebe.

Ares,god of war,was the embod irnent of everything warlike.Strong and brave′ he、 ″as definitely sorneone to have on your side in a fight― but he was also hot‐ tenlpered

and violent,liking nothing

better than a good massacre.Athenians who fought only for such noble idea!s as liberty,thought that Ares must be a Thra― cian― 、 ″honn they regarded as bloodthirst)′ barbarians

Mytho!ogy― The Twe!ve!Deities 47

Hlephaestus was worshipped for his matchless skills as a craftsman. VVhen Zeus decided to punish nnan′ he asked Hephaestusto make a

wornan. So Hephaestus created Pandora frorn clay and watet and, as everyone knows,she had a box`frorn which sprang all the evils afflicting hurnankind.

The next time you have a bowl of corn flakes, give thanks to E)enleter,the

goddess of earth and fert‖ ity. The English、 ″ord'cereal',for products of corn or edible grain′ derives frorn the goddess'Rornan narne,Ceres.The Greek word for such products

is demer″ a々a tο

The goddess of love(and lust)was the beautiful Aphrodite. Her υ″ el,rce was her nlagic lgirdle which rnade everyone fall in love `ゴ

with its wearer The girdle rneant she was constantly pursued by bOth gods and goddesses― the gods because they wanted to nnake love tO

hel the goddesses because they wanted to borro∼、 ′the girdle. Zeus became so fed up with her promiscuity that he married her ott to Hephaestus,the ughest of the gods.

Athena,the powerful goddess of wisdOm and guardian Of Athens, iS Sald to have been born(connplete、 ″ith helrnet,arrnour and spear) from Zeus'head,with Hephaestus acting as midwife.Un‖ ke Ares,she derived no pleasure from fighting,preferring tO use her wisdom tO se性

le

disputes peacefu‖ y」 f need be,hOvvevel she went vanantly into battle

Poseidon,the brother of Zeus,was god of the sea and Preferred his sunlptuous palace in the depths of the Aegean to Mt(Dlynlpus When he Was angry(Which was often)he would use his trident to create nlassive waves and floods.His nloods could also trigger earth―

quakes and volcanic eruptions.He was always On the100kOutforsOrne rea!eState On dry land and challenged[)ionysos for Naxos, Hera for Argos and Athena for Athens. Apo!!o, god of light,vvas the son of Zeus by the nymph Leto. He was the sort of person everybody wanted to have around.The ancient cireeks associated sunshine with spiritual and intenectuali‖

urnination.

′ へpo‖ o was also worshipped as the god of rnusic and song,which the ancients believed、 ″ere heard only where there、 ″as light and security. His t、 ″ in sisteL A:temis, seems to have been a bit confused by her portfolio She、 ″as worshipped as the gOddess of childbilth, yet she asked Zeus to grant her eternal virginityi she was also the protector Of

suckling animals,but ioved huntingl Hernles,rnessenger of the gods,vvas anOther sOn Of Zeus― this tirne by Mala,daughter of Atlas He vvas a colourful character who smooth― talked his way into the top ranks of the(3reek Pantheon.Convicted of rustling Apo‖ o's ca」 e wh‖ e sti‖ in his cradle′ he emerged from the case

TT

48 Mytho!ogy― Lesser Gods

as the guardian of a‖ divine propety Zeus then made Hermes his mes― sengel and fitted hirn out w th a pair Of winged gOiden sandals tO speed him On hiS Way・

HiS iOb inCluded reSPOnSib‖

ty fOr COmmerCe,tに atieS

and the safety oftraveners He remained,however,the patron of thieves Hermes conlpletes the first XI―

the gods whose position in the pan―

theon is agreed by everyone.The final berth is nornla‖ y reserved for Hestia, gOddess Of the hearth. she vvas as pure as driven snow, a symbol of security,happiness and hosPitality.She spurned disputes and wars and swore to be a virgin foreven She was a bit too virtuous for sOnne,whO relegated her tO the ranks of the Lesser(3ods and pronnoted the fun‐ lovlng I)ionysos,god of wine,

in her place 〔 )ionysos was a son of Zeus by another of the suprerne deiys da‖ iances.He had theiOb OftOuring the WO‖ d With an entOurage of fe‖ ow

reve‖ ers spreading the word about the vine and wine

Lesser Gods After his brothers Zeus and Poseidon had taken the heavens and seas,

Hades wasie■ with the underwond(the earth was common ground). This vast and nlysterious region was thought by the Greeks to be as far beneath the earth as the sky was ab()ve it.‐「he underv′ orld vvas divided into three regionsi the Elysian Fields for the virtuous,Tlartarus

for sinners and the Asphodel Meadows for those who fitted neither category. Hades was also the god of wealth,in the form of the pre― cious stones and metals found deep in the earth. Pan,the son of Hernles,vvas the god of the shepherds.Born with horns,beard,tall and goatlegs,his ugliness so annused the Other gOds that eventua‖ y he fled to′ へrcadia Ⅵ ′ here he danced,played his fanlous pipes and watched over the pastures,shepherds and herds. l‐

C)ther gods included:Asclepius,god of healing;Eros,god oflovei iypnos,gOd Of sleepl HeliOs,gOd Of the sun;and se!ene,gOddess

ofthe moon

Mytho:ogy 8e the:siands The([:ods may have lived on Mt C)lympus, but their influence extended to the farthest reaches of Cireek territory and the islands feature prorninently in mythology

The sacred island of I)elos was the birthplace Of the twins Apo‖ o and Ademis,wh‖ e Zeus himself was raised in Dikteon Cave on Crete. The island of lkaria is nanled aftericarus,who Plunged into the sea after he flew too close to the sun.Aegina is natTled a■

er a

daughter of the river god, Asopus. She was taken to the island by Zeus on another of his lecherous sorties

Mytho:ogy 49

C)lynlpian Creation Myth According to mythology,the world wasformed from a greatshape― less mass ca‖ ed Chaos From Chaos calTle forth Gaea,the earth

goddess.She bore a son,Uranus,the Firmarnent,and their subse―

quent union prOduced three 100-handed giants and three one― eyed Clyclopes. Gaea dearly loved her hideous offspring, but not so Uranus,who hurled them into Tartarus(the underWOrld). The couple then produced the seven‐ ntans,but Gaea st‖ l grieved for her other children.She asked the￢

tansto take vengeance upon yclopes.The

their fathet and free the lC)0-handed giants and the(二

lltans did as they were requested,castrating the hapless tJranus, but Cronos(the head￢ tan),after setting eyes on(iaea's hideous offspring,hurled thenl back lnto Tartarus,whereupon(laca foretold that Cronos would be usurped by one of his ovvn offspring. CЮ nos married his sister Rhea,but waウ 。f his mother's warning, he swa‖ owed every ch‖ d Rhea bore him.When Rhea bore hersixth ch‖ d,Zeus,she

smuggled hirn to Crete,and gave Cronos a stonein

place of the child,which he duly swa‖ ovved.Rhea hid the baby Zeus ln the Dikte()n(:ave in the care of three nynlphs

()n reachingl nlanhood, Zeus, determined to avenge his swal― lowed siblings, became Cronos'cuPbearer and filled his cuP With POison Cronos drank fronn the cup`then disgorged first the stone and then his children Hestia,Denletel Hera,Poseidon and l― lades, all of whom were none the worse for their ordeal Zeus,aided by his regurgitated brothers and sisters,deposed Cronos,and vvent to war against the Titans vvho wouldn't acknowledge him as chief god.

(laea,who still hadn't forgotten herimprisoned,beloved offspring, told Zeus he would only be victorious with the help ofthe Cycl()pes

and the l100-handed glants,so he released them from Tlartarus. The(]yclopes gave Zeus a thunderbolt,and the three 100-handed giants threw rocks at the面 tans,who eventua‖ y retに ated.Zeus ban― ished cronOs, as well as all of the ￢tans except Atlas(Cronos' tlas was ordered to hold up the sky. deputy),to a far― oll:la∩ d ハ、 Mt Olyrnpus becarne home― sweet― home for Zeus and his fanlily. Zeus soon took a fancy to his sister Hera. He

tricked the unsuspecting Hera into

holding hirn to her bosom by turning hlrnselfinto a dlsheve‖ ed

cuckoo, then violated her 卜 lera reluctantly agreed to

marry him and they had three

children:

.Ares

卜 lephaestus and Hebe.

凸

凸

凸

50 Facts about Crete―

´

′ ″″ ο グ′ο″ρα gθ rcο ″

Language

ィ,

side. ヽ10st have been built by individual farnilies in the nanle Of their farnily's se―

Vendettas

lcctcd Patron saint as thanksgiving for

Cretans are an ethnic mix`fOrmed frOm the races and ethnicities that occupied the is_

God's protection. ・ 「 he OrthodOx religion held Cretan cul― ture togcther during the rnany dark cen―

land over the ml‖ ennia Hovvever, ethnlc and religiOus hOn10geneity has not brOught harmony Ciretans are notorious through―

turies of repressiOn despite nuinerous,

out Creece for murderous vendettas that have lasted for generatiく)ns and caused

cisnl and lslanl.

hundreds Of cretans to flee the island

holidays with enthusiaslll,thOugh it's in―

Particularly prevalent in Sfakia, the

largely futile effOrts by the Venetians and

Turks to turn the Cretans tOward Catholi― Cretans still celebrate(Grcek(])rthodox teresting to note that thc(Drthodox(Church

south― west Of Crete,a vendetta can start

Of Crete is independent fronl the Greek

OVerthe theft Of 50rne SheeP,an errant bul―

(:)rthodox(Ξ :hurch and ans、 vers directly to

let at a wedding Or anything deerned an in―

the Patriarch Of COnstantinOple. If you、 vish to look around a church,yOu should dress apprOpriately.ヽ VOrncn should wcar skl■ s that reach be10w the knecs,men should、 vear 10ng trOusers and arms should be covered.Regrettably,nlany churches are keptlocked no、vadays,but it's usually easy cnough to locate caretakers, whO will lbe happy to open them up fOr yOu.

sult to family honOun The insultis avenged with a murdet whlch 11lust be avenged with

another murder and so on Modernity has in no vvay sternrned the carnage and, in fact, prOsperity has a‖ ovved avengers tO purSue their targets across Greece. 出

淵

Religlon is still intcgral to life in Greece,and the Greek ycar is centred on the feStiValS Of the church calendar.ヽ

4ost

LANGUAGE Greek is the oficiallanguage in(〕 rcte.IEng‐ lish is spOken Only in areas catering tO large

Greeks,when they havc a problem,will

numbcrs of tourists,so away,Om ma」 Or

go into a church and light a candlc to the saint they neel is inost likely to help them.

tOWns you'1l need atleast some Greck.See the Language chapter at the back of this

()n the islands yOu、 vill see hundreds of tiny churchcs dOtted arOund the country―

book for a breifguide to Grcck and a list of uscnul、 vords and phrascs.

Facts for the Visitor THE BEST&WORST

■olm Novenlber untilthe beginning ofApril ―hOtels and restaurants are closed and bus

The Best

and ferry services are either drastically re―

it'S tOugh trying tO piCk luSt 10 0f the beSt

things about Crete

duced or plain cancelled.

「 hese are pers()nal

The cobwebs are dusted off in time nor

fav()uritesi the places,things and activities

the authors ofthis book would n￢ ost ilke to

Easter,whcn the irst tourists start to arrive. (3onditions are pernect bet、 veen Easter and

dedicate a lot more of their tirne to:

nlid― Junc,

、 vhen the 、 veather is pleasantly 、 varin in most places, but not too hot;

O Swirnrnlng at uncrowded beaches ・

beaches and ancient sites are relatively un― cro、 ′ ded;public transport operates on close

radltlonal villages

￢

∼ to fuli schedules; and accornnlodation is

O Late night dinners at vl‖ age tavernas

e Eating fresh seafood by the sea

cheaper and easy to find. Mid― Junc until the end of August is thc high seasOn. It's party tinle on the island

e Cretan music ・ Explorlng the island on foot O Easter festivities

ing. It's als。 and cverything is in null s、′ very hot― in July and August thc nlercury can sOar t0 40° C(100° F)in the shade,the

O Ciretan hospitallty O Siesta tinle

・

ハ ヽ /edclingl feasts that include an entire

beaclles are cro、 vded, the ancient sites are

village

vith tour groups, and in lllany swarining 、 placcs accornmodation is bookcd solid. The seasOn stans tO wind do、 vn in Scp―

The Worst VVe'd be very happy not to experience the fo‖ owing agaln:

tcnlbcr,and conditions are ideal oncc nlore until the end of()ctobcr.

・ Concrete‐ box domatia sPOiling iand― scapes ‐ O「 he attltude to rubbish ・ Hot,rrlosquito― ridden hotel rooms ・ The loss of traditlonalllfestyles as every

Maps ヽlapping is an inlportant feature of this guide Unless you arc going to trek or drivc,

you probably、 von't need additional maps. Most tourist of16ccs hand out frcc maps, but they arc oflcn out of date and not par― ticularly accurate.「 Fhc saine applies to the

nlan,wornan and dog trles to make a fast buck out of tourisrn

・ Brash restaurant touts accostlng

cheap(400 drto 500 dr)`tourist maps'.

Passers― by

O Smoking

1｀

cOvered by the conlpany's l:250,000 nlaro()11_cover lllainland scrics. Even the

・ lrakllo alrport O Poorly nlarked and potholed roads ⑮

snlallcst roads and villagcs are clearly lnarked, and the distancc indicators are spOt_On― irnpOrtant when negotiating your 、 vay around the backblocks.

躙

PLANNING When to Co

」

he best lllaps are published by the

Greek col■ lpany Road Editions.Crcte is

e Demon drivers ・ (Duzo― induced hangovers

What to Bring

Thc bcst times to visit Crcte are in late

Sturdy shoes are csscntial for clanlbering

spring/early surnnler and in autunln.Wintcr

around ancicnt sites and、 vandcring around

is prett). Inuch a dcad loss. Most of the

historic to、

tourist inう rastructure goes into hibernation

have lots of steps and cobblcd streets.

￢■■日 ■[■ ■■■■■■】 ■■■■■日 ■■日目E‖ ‖]L.ll

51 i

vns and villagcs,which tend to

52 Facts for the Visitor―

Tourist()ffices

A daytpack is useful fOr the beach, and 、cornpass is es‐ sential if you are going tO trek in remOte areas, as is a whistle, whicll you can use should you beconle lost or disorientatcd.A torch(nashlight)is not only needed if you intend to explore caves,but cOrnesin handy for sightseeing or trekking_´

during occasiOnal pO、 ver cuts.lf)′ Ou like to

nil a washbasin or bathtub(a rarity in Crete),bring a universal plug as Greek

￢ourist Ofrices Ab『 Australia (●

02-9241:663/4/5)

51 Pitt St,Sydncy NSW 2000 Austria (●

1‐

5125317/8)

Opernring 8,Vienna A-10105

Belgium (● 2-6475770)

bathrooins rarely have plugs.

172 Ave Louise Louizalaan,B‐

Many carnping grounds in Crete have covered areas where tOurists、 vithOut tents can sleep in surnmer,so you can get by with

a lightweight sleeping bag and loarn bedroll.

You wili nced only

oad

GNTO ofices abroad include:

light ciothing― prefe■

ably cOttOn― during the surnrner months. I)uring spring and autunln you'1l need a light siweater Orjacket in the evening.

In suminet a broad― rimmed sunhat and SunglaSSeS are eSSential(SCe the Health SeC‐ tiOn later in thiS Chapter).SunSCreen CreamS

are expensive in Crete,as arc moisturising and cleansing crearns. IfyOu read a lot,it's a good idea to bring

along a few disposable paperbacks tO

read

and s、 vap.

1050 Brusscis

Canada (‐ 416-9682220) 1300 Bay St,Toronto,Ontario M5R 3K8 1)enrnark

325332)

(●

3‐

(●

0卜 42606575)

｀ 4cster Farimagsgadc l, 1606 Copenhagen 、 France 3 Ave del'Opё ra,I)aris 75001 Gerinany (● 69‐ 1ヽ

237735)

Jeuc Mainzcrstrassc 22,6031l Frankfun

(● 89‐ 222035/036)

Pacellistrassc 5,ヽ V80333 (●

Munich 2

40-454498)

Abteistrasse 33,20149 Hamburg 13 (●

30-2176262)

やVittcnbergplatz 3A, 10789 13erlin 30 1srael (●

23-5170501)

5 Shalorn Aleichenl St,Tel Aviv 61262

TOURIST OFFIC■ S ´

1taly

「 ourist inlor■lation is handled by the Greek lヽ

Iational Tourist()rganisatiOn, knO、

vn by

the initials GNTO abroad and EOT (Ellinikos OrganismOs TOurismOu)in (:〕

reece.

(●

06-4744249)

Via L Bissolati 78‐ (■

.02-860470)

80,Romc 00187

Piazza I)iaz l,20123 Milan Japan (●

03-35055911)

Fukuda lBuilding Wcst,5F2-11‐ Minato―K[u,llokyo 107

Local■ourist Offices The address of the E(D)T's head ofice 01-3223111)is Amerikis 2,Athens 105 ´ 64. rhere are about 25 EC)T ofices (●

throughout Crete. Most E()・ stafF speak English,but they vary in their enthusiasm and helpnuiness.

Ncthcrlands 1'020-6254212/3/4) (■ Lcidsestraat i 3,Amsterdam NS 1017

Norway

I｀

Sonle oflnces, like that in Agios Nlko‐ laos,have loads Ofuseful local infOrinatiOn,

but rnost have nothing n10re than giossy brochures and a few maps.SOnle have ab― s01utely nothing t。 。fne. in addition to lE()1｀ ofnces,there arc also ・ nlunicipal tourist oflnccs. hey are often nlore helpnul. Iヽ

3 Akasaka,

(■

'2‐

426501)

Ovrc Siottsgate 15B,0157 0slo l

Swedcn (雪

8‐

6796480)

Birgcr Jarlsgatan 30,Box 5298 S, 10246 Stockholrn

Switzerland (● Ol‐

2210105)

Locwenstrassc 25,CH 8001 Zurich

UK

(8.020‐

74994976)

4 Conduit St,London W iR()DJ

Facts for the Visitor―

´ Arnerican countries. 「 he list changes, so

USA (●

212-421 5777)

Olympic Tower,645 5th Avc,New York,NY 10022 (●

Suite 600, 168 Nonh lν 〔 ichigan′ へ vc,ChicagO, IIlinois 60601

6266696)

Suitc 2198,61l Wcst 6th St,Los Angcles, Califonlia 92668

￢ourist l｀

Those not on the list can expect to pay

Turkish‐

Occupled Noll:h Cyprus Greece

、11l refuse entr)′ tO people、 vhose passpo■ ´ indicates that they have visited 「 urkish―

occupicd North(〕 yprus since November

Police

he tOurist pOlice、

contact(3reek enlbassies lor the full list. about S20 1or a thrce nlonth visa.

312-7821084)

(● 213‐

Visas&Documents 53

Ork in cOOperation、 vith

∼ thc regular Cretan policc and EC)「F. Each

1983.´ 「 his can bc ovcrcorne ll upon cnter‐ ing North Cyprus,you ask the irnmigration OfiCialS tO Stamp a pieCC Of papCr(100Se― leaf ViSa)rather than yOur paSSpOrt lf yOu

ber of staff who speaks English.Hotels,

enter No■ h Cyprus'om the Greek Repub― liC Of CypruS(Only pOSSible fOr a dり ViSit),

rcstaurants,travel agcncics,tourist shOps,

an exit stalllp is not put into your passpOrt.

tourist p。 lice Ofice has at least one inelll―

tourist guides,waitcrs,taxi drivcrs and bus drivers all conle under the jurisdictiOn Of the tourist police.IfyOu think that yOu havc been ripped off by any ofthese,report it tO the tourist police and they、 vill invcstigate.

If you need to report a theft or ioss of passport,the tourist police will act as inter_

vcenン'Ou and thc rcgular police The tourist policc als。 つ ulfll thc sanle func_ tions as the EOT and municipal tourist oF prctcrs bct、

ices,dispensing inaps and brOchures,and giving infOrlllatiOn On transpOrt.

ViSAS&DOCuMENTS Passport

Visa Extensions lf you want to stay in Greece for longer than three months,apply at a consulate abroad or at least 20 days in

advance to the Aliens Bureau(● 01-770 5711),Leoお ros Alexandras 173,Athens. 1lake your passport and lour passport photo― graphs a10ng.、 rOu nlay be asked fOr prOOf that you can suppOrt yOurseiffinancially,sO

keep all your bank eXChangC SlipS(Or the equivalent nrom a post ofllce).These s‖ ps arc not al、 vays autoinatically given― yOu may have to ask forthcm.Thc Alicns Bur‐

eau is open 8 anl to l pnl weekdays.In Crete apply to the rnain prefccture in lrak‐

Tlo enter Grcccc,Ou need a valid passport

lio.You will bc givcn a pcrinit which、 vill

or,lor EU nationals,travcl documents(ID

authorisc you to stay in(3reece for a periOd of up to six nlonths. lost travcllcrs get around this by visiting iBulgaria Or´「 urkey

cards).You must produce your passpOrt Or Eit'travel docurnents when you registcr in a hotcl or pension in(〕 rete.You、 vi11 1lnd that many accorninodation proprietors l■ ′ ill 、 vant to keep your passpOrt during yOur stay.This is not a conlpuisory requirenlent; tllcy need it only long enough tO take do、 vn thc dctails.

Visas

・ 「 he list of countrics whose nationals can stay in Greece fOr up tO three inOnths、 vith_ out a visa include Australia,(1〕 anada,all EtJ

countries, Iceland, Israel, Japan, Ne、 v Zealand, Nor、 vay, S、 itzerland and the ∼ tJ S′へ …C)thcr countries included arc C〕 yprus, ヽ4alta, thc European principalities Of ヽ4onaco and San ヽ4arino, and nlost South

brieny and thcn reentering Greece.

Travel lnsurance A travcl insurance policy to cover theft,loss and nlcdical problcrns is a good idea l｀ he policics handled by S′ I]A Travel and other

studcnt travel organisations are usually good value.Therc is a widc variety of pOli― cies available;check the snlall print.SOrne

policies speciflcally exclude `dangcrOus activities'、 hich can include scuba diving, ∼

nlotorcycling, even trekking. A locally

acquircd illotorcycle licence is nOt valid undcr sornc policies. ou may preler a policy that pays doctors or hospitals dircct rathcr than you having to lY′

54 Facts for the Visitor―

E:mlbassies&Consulates

pay on the spot and clainl later.If yOu have

Student(Eards

to clainl later nlake sure iyou kcep all docu―

mentation. Sorne policies ask yOu tO call baCk(reVCrSC ChargeS)tO a Centre in yOur homc countiう ′｀ Vhcrc an iinnlcdiatc asscss― nlcnt Of yOur prOblenl is made.

Check that the policy covers anlbulances or an enlergcncy flight horne.

Driv:ng Licence&Perm:ts Crete recognises ali natiOnal driving licences, provided the liccncc has bccn hel(i for at least one year. lt also recog―

niSeS an internatiOnal l)riVing PeriFlit, 、′ hich shOuld bc Obtained befOre yOu ∼ leave horne.

Hostei Cards

Card)ls a plastic I〔

)―

style card displaylng

your photograph These cards are widely avallable frorrl budget travel agencles(take

along proof that you are a student). ln Athens you can get one from the inter‐ ‐ national Student 8` Youth 「 ravel Service ● 01-323 3767, 2nd floor, Nlkis (ISYTSi

ll,Athens) Sorne travel agenciesin(3reece offer dls―

counts on organised tours to students However, there are no student discounts for travel within Greece(aithough Olympic Airvvays glves a 25%discount on dornestic flights that are part of an lnternational

ght).Turkish Airlines(THY)gives 55% student dlscounts on lts lnternational

f‖

A Hostening international(Hl)card is of no use in Crete.

Student&Youth Cards The inOSt Widely reCOgniSed(and thuS the

most useml)わ rm ofstudentID is the lnter‐

natiOnal Student ldentity Card(ISIC). H01derS quali取 おr

An lSiCI(lnternational Student ldentity

half‐ priCe

admiSSiOn tO

sonle rnuseunls and ancient sites.´ 「 here are no travel agencics authoriscd to issuc ISI(〕 s in Crete,so it、 vould be、 vise to arrangc for

onc before leaving honle.

Air Crete and Cronus Airlines both offer student discounts on dornestic lflights, but there are no discounts on buses, ferries or trains.

flights.THY has fllghts from Athens to ls― tanbul and lzmir Most ferries to Cyprus,ls―

rael and Egypt frorn Piraeus glve a 20% student discount and a few of the services ′ betル 、 een Greek and ltalian ports do so also lf you are under 26 years but not a student,

the Federation of international Youth Travel(Drganlsation (FIYT())card gives similar disc()unts Many budget travel agencies lssue FIYT〈 :)cards lncluding Lon― don Explorers(二 lub(● 020-7792377033,

Princes Square, BayswateL London VV2) and SRS Studenten Reise Service(●

03()-2

833093,Marienstrasse 23,3erlin) 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 鏃 凸 凸

All impo■ ant documcnts(passport data

EMBASSIES&C(0)NSULATE5 Greek Embassies&Consu:ates

page and visa page,credit cards,travcl in― surance policy,air/bus/train tickets,driving

ving is a selection of([〕 The noil。 、 rnatic irlissions abroad:

liCenCe etC)ShOuld be phOtOCOpied be10re you leave honle. 1し cavc one copy with

´ 、 ustralia

Photocopies

sonleone at honlc and lく ccp another with you,separate fronl the originals.

It is also a good idea to storc details of your vital travel docurnents in Loncly ｀ Planet's free online Travel /ault at

www.ekno.lonclyplanet.cOm in case yOu lose the photocopies or can't be bothered with them.Your password― protected Travel

(■

'02-62733011)

9 Turrana St,YalTalunlla,Canberra ACT 2600 Bulgaria (●

92-9461027)

San Stcfano 33,Sona 1504

Canada (■ 613-2386271) 76-80 Maclaren St,Ottawa,Ontario K2P OK6

Cyprus

Vault is accessible online any、 vhere in the

(TP 02-441 880/8801)

world.

Byron Boulcvard 8-10,Nicosia

L._― _r「

―.

reek dipl。 _

Facts for theヽ ′ isitor―

Denmark (●

Ennbassies&lConsu:ates in Crete

33-114533)

13'orgergade 16, i300([〕

opcnhagen K

Egypt (●

02-3551074)

18 Aisha cl Taymouria,Gardcn City Cairo France (●

The UK embassy in iraklio is the only for―

eign embassy in Crete.The rest are in Athcns and its suburbs(telephone code 01). They include: Australia

01-47237228)

17 Rue Auguste Vacquerie,75116 Paris

(●

Bulgaria

228-83010)

An Der Maricnkapcllcb 10,53 179 Bonn

(●

Athens 154 52

01-6767254)

Canada (● 7273400)

l UppcrI)enlbrokc St,I)ublin 2 1srael (●

〈 [lenadiou 4,Athens i15 21

03-6055461)

47 13odenhcinlcr St,´

I｀

viv elノヽ

62008

Cyprus (●

1taly

・06-8549630) Via S Mcrcadante 36,Ronlo 00198 Japan

'03-3400871/0872)

3-16‐

30 Nishi Azabu,Minato― ku,

Toけ o106 Netheriands (●

070-3638700)

Koninginnegracht 37,2514 AD,Den Hague Ncw Zcaland (● 04-4737775) 5-7ヽ Villcston St,ヽVicllington

Nomり (●

Nobels Gatc 45,0244(1)s!o2 South A■ ica (● 12‐

437351/352)

995 Prctorius Strcet,Arcadia,Prctoria 0083

Spain (●

01-5644653)

Avcnida I)octor Arcc 24,ヽ ladrid 28002

Sweden (1'08-6637577) Riddargatan 60, 11457 Stockholm S、vitzcrland

(●

31-9510814)

Postfach,3000 Bcrnc 6,Kirchcnfbld

Turkcy (● 312-4368860) Rahman Caddcsi 9-11, (〕 aziosnlanpasa 06700,Ankara

Ziya―

ul―

UK

(壼 020‐

72293850)

l A 1lolland Park,London W i1 3TP

USA (■

]E;〔

;】

/pt

(●

'202-9395818)

2221 Massachusetts Ave Nヽ V,ゝ′ ashington DC

20008

3618613)

Leoforos Vasi:issis So■

as 3,Alhcns i06 71

France (●

3391000)

Leoforos

iasilissis So■

as 7,Athens 106 71

Gennany ('728 51ll) E)inlitriou 3&Karaoli,Kolonaki, Athens 106 75 1rcland (●

22-442728)

7237883)

Irodotoll 1 6,Athcns 106 75

(■

(■

6478105)

Stratigou Kalari 33A,Psyhiko,

lreland (●

6450404)

I:)i171itrOu SOutSOu 37,Athens i15 21

Gernany (●

E:T:bassies&(Consu!ates 55

7232771)

Leoforos Vasilcos Konstantinou 7,

Athens 106 74 1sracl (●

6719530)

ヽ4arathonodronlou l,Psyhiko, Athens 154 52 1taly (●

3617260)

Sckcri 2,Athens 106 74 Japan

('7758101) Athens T:owcr,Lcoforos Mcssogion 2-4, Athens l15 27 Nethcrlands (●

7239701)

Vasilcos Konstantinou 5-7,

Athens 106 74

Ncw Zcaland(Consulttc) (奮

7710112)

Xenias 24,Athens l15 28 South A■ ica (●

6806645)

Kinssias 60,ヽ 4aroussi,Athcns i51 25

Turkey (●

7245915)

｀ ′ iasilissis Gcorgiou 8,Athens 106 74

56 Facts for theヽ ′ isitor―

Customs

UK

you are taking nledication, rnake sure you

('7236211)

get a staternent nronl your doctor before you

Ploutarhou l,Athcns 106 75 (●

leave h。 lne.It is illegal,lor instance,to takc

081-224012)

ithout an accolllpany― codeine into(Clrete、 ′ ing doctor's certincate. An unliinited anlount of lorcign currcncy and travellers cheques inay be brought into

´ 、 Palcxandrou 1 6,Iraklio

USA

(●

7212951)

Leoforos Vasilissis Sonas 91,Athcns l15 21

Yugoslavia (●

Crctc. 1l hOWeVet yOu intend tO leaVe the

031-244266,lax 240 412)

country、 vith forcign banknotes in cxccss of S1000,you nlust declare thc sunl upon entiぅ ′

Konininon 4,Thcssaloniki

.

Restrictions apply to the importation of (:lenerally speaking, yOur Own cOuntry's

sailboards into(二 lrete.See the/ヽ ctivities sec―

embassy、 von't be much help in enlergen―

ti()n later in this chapter for nlore details.

cies ifthe trouble you're in is renlotely your

It is strictly forbidden to export antiqui―

own fault.Rcmemberthat you are bound by

tiCS(anything OVCr 100 yearS Old)WithOut

Grcek laws.Your embassy will not be sym‐

an cxport pcrinit.1｀ his crinlc is sccond only

pathetic ifyOu cnd up injail after cOmmit― ting a crirne locally,even ifsuch actions are legal in your o、 vn country.

to drug snluggling in the pcnalties inlposcd.

In genuine elnergencies yOu rnight gct

It is an ofnence to renlove even the snlallest

article nrorn an archacological site ´ rhe placc tO apply fOr an expOrt pernlitis

sorne assistancc, but only if other channels

the Antique Dealers&Private Conections

have been exhausted. For exanlple, if you

Section,Archaeological Service,Polygno― tou 13,Athens.

need tO get hOrne urgently,a frce ticket hornc is exceedingly unlikely― the einbassy、 vould

(Elars can be brought into(二 :rete nor lour

expect you to have insurancc ifyou havc all your lnoncy and docunlcnts stolen,it nnight assist with getting a ne、 passport,but a loan

mOnthS WithOut a Carnet(a CuStOmS li― CenCC):Only a grCCn Card(intCrnatiOnal

lor onward travel is out()f the questi()n.

hicle will be registered in your passport 、 vhen you enter Crete tO prevent yOu leav―

∼

CuSTOMS

third party insurancc)is required Ybur ve―

ing thc country without it.

herc arc no longer duty-lree restrictions within the EU .This does not mean, how― cver, that custorns checks have been dis― penscd with ― randOrn searches are still nladc l‐or drugs Upon entering the country l｀

'om outside is usually curs―the ory EU,customs for foreign inspection tourists.There

M10NEY

Currency l｀

he unit ofcurrency in Crete is the drachrna

(dr).COinS COme in denOminatiOnS Of iVe, 10,20, 50 and 100 dr. Banknotes corne in

100,200,500, 1000,5000 and 10,000 dr.

lllay be spot checks,but you probably、 vOn't

have to open your bags.You n,ay bring the into Cretc duty― frcc: 200 ciga― rettes or 50 cigarsi l L of spirits or 2L of

Exchange Rates

ollo、 ving

unit

drachnla

Australia

ASl

207 dr

Canada

CSi

221 dr

Cl

328 dr

Francc

10FF

500 dr

Gcnlnany

DMI

168 dr

ltaly

L1000

169 dr 318 dr

l‐

、 vine; 50g of perfuine; 250rnl of eau de

C010gne;One Camera(St‖ 1

0r Vide。

)and

ilm;a pair of binoculars;a portable rnusi― cal instrurnent; a radio or tape recorderi a type、 vriteri sports equiplllent;and dogs and cats(With a VCterinary Cenincate). Inlportation of works of art and antiqui― ties is free, but they lllust be declared on entry,so that they can be rc― exported. I!γ

Japan

¥100

Ncw Zcaland Unitcd Kingdom

NZSl

port regulations lor nlcdicines arc strict: if

tJnitcd Statcs

USSi

l―

UK￡

166 dr l

521 dr 325 dr

l

Facts for the Visitor―

Money 57

Exchang:ng Money

taining a record ofthe cheque numbers and

Banks Ⅵ′ ill exchange ali maJOr currencies in either cash, travellers chequcs or Euro―

recording when you use thenl is vital、 vhen it comes to replacing lost chcqucs. Iく ccp

cheques.′ The best― kno、 vn travellers cheques

this recOrd separate fr。 ln the cheques thern―

in Crete are Thomas Cook and American

selvcs.US dollarsis a goOd cunency to use.

Express.A passport is rcquired to changc travellers cheques,but not cash.

Colnlllisslon chargcd on the exchange Of banknotes and travellers cheques varies not only fiorn bank to bank but fTorn branch to branch.It's iess lor cash than for travellers

バTAAs ATMs are to be found in alnlost every .n large enOugh tO suppOn a bank― and tOぃ certainly in ali the tourist areas.Ifyou've got

lasterCard or Visa/Access,there are plenty Of places tO、 vithdra、 、n10ney

cheques. For travellers cheques the corn― rnission is 350 dr for up to 20,000 dr;450 dr for alllounts betν leen 20,000 and 30,000

Cirrus,Plus andヽ 4acstro uscrs can nlake withdrawals in all maJOr towns and tourist

dr;and a lflat rate of l.5'6 on arnounts over 30,000 dr.

AFE ls(Automatic Foreign Exchangc Machines)are common in maJOr tourist

Post offices can exchange banknotes ― but not travcllcrs chcques― and charge less

cornrnission than banks.Many travel agen‐ cies and hotels、vill also change inOney and travellers cheques at bank rates, but their cornrnission chargcs are higher. If there is a chance that you rnay apply for a visa extension,11lake sure you rcceive, and kcep hOld of,a bank exchange slip after each transaction.

Cash Nothing bcats cash lor convenience― or lor risk.If you losc it,it's gone for good and vcry fcw travel insurcrs、 vill colne to your rescue.´ 「 hosc that、 ∼ill,nol■ 1lally lilnit thc arnount to about S300.It's best to car:ly no nlore cash than you need forthe next fe、 v days,、 vhich nleans、 vorking out)′Our likely

needs when you changc travellers cheques

・

hey take ali the rna,or European cur― areas rencies,Australian and US dollars and Japan― ese yen,and are usen】 lin an emergency. I｀

Credit Cards Thc grcat advantagc Ofcrcdit CardS iS thatthCy a‖

OW yOutO payお r ma10r

iterns、vithout cariD′ ing around great wads of

cash.Credit cards are no、 ′an accepted pa

of the commercial scenc just about cvely― where in(3rete.´ 「 hey can be used to pay for

a wlde range of goods and services such as upinarket nleals and accornnlodation, car hirc and sOuvcnir shOpping. lf you are not fanliliar、 vith the card op―

tions,ask your bank to cxplain thc workings and relative lllerits Of the various schenles:

cash cards, charge cards and credit cards. vhether the card can be replaced in Ask 、 Crete if it is iost or stolen.

Travellers(Cheques The inain reasOn tO

´ 「 hc main credit cards are MasterCard, Visa(Accessin the UK)and Eurocard,all of which arc、 videly accepted in Crctc. They ′ can also be used as cash cards to dra、 、 drachma■ om AT ls of af■ liated Greek banks in the sanle 、 vay as at honle. I)aily 、 vithdra、 val lilnits are set by the issuing

carry travellers cheques rather than cash is

bank.(3ash advances are given in local cur…

the prOtectiOn they Offer against thent.´ 「 hey are,ho、 ever,losing popularity as 11lore and

rency only.Credit cards can bc used to pay

or withdraw cash iom an ATM(automatic tener machincs). It's also a good idea to set aside a srnall

anlount of cash,say S50,as an eincrgcncy stash.

∼

nlore travellers opt to put their nloncy in a 「Fヽ4s as bank at honle and withdraw it atノヽ they go along.

American Express,Visa and Thomas Cook cheques are all widcly accepted and have eficient replacelment policies.Main―

for accornillodation in all the classier hotels. Sorne C― class hotels will accept credit cards, but E)― and E― class hotels rarcly do.Most up―

markct shOps and restaurants accept credit cards but the village tavernas do not. The lmain chargc cards are American Ex―

press and E)incr's Club card, which are

58 Facts for the Visitor―

Post&Communications

、 videly accepted ill tOurist areas but unheard

dr per day in the suminer for a sinlple rO。

of else、 vhere.

rneals in local tavernas,drinks at night and sorne sightsecing.()utside ofthe high scasOn you could gct by on about 25ツ6 1ess.If you

International Transfers lfyOu run Out of

lη ,

rnoncy,or need i1lore for、 vhatever rcason,

rcally want a holiday― comfonable roOms

you can instruct your bank back hornc to Send yOu a draft.SpCCitt the City and the

and rcstaurants all the、 vay― you wili need

bank as、 vell as the branch that yOu、 vantthe

nloney sent to.If you have the choice,se― lect a largc bank and ask for the inter― national division.Moncy sent by electrOnic transfer should reach you within 24 hours.

closer to 20,000 dr pcr day.「 Fhcse budgets are lor individuals.Couples sharing a dOuble roorn can get by on less.

Tipping&Bargaining

of the National 13ank of Grecce, Panepis―

in restaurants the service charge is includcd in the bili but it is the custonl to leave a sman tip.Thc practice is。 ■cnjust to round off the bill. 1_′ ike、 visc for taxis ― a snlall almount is appreciated. 13argaining is not as、 videspread in(Crctc

tinniou 36,7ヽ thens― and it'1l give only about

as it is furthcr cast.Priccs in most shops are

7596 of thc going international rate.

clearly rnarked and non― negotiablc The

vvarning it's ali but inlpOssible tO ex_ ´ ´

change rurkish lira in(〕 reece.

1le only place you can change itis atthe head ofince I｀

same applies to restaurants and public trans― pon.HoⅥ 7ever,it is al￢,ays、 ′ 0■ h bargain_

Security ´ I｀

he safest、vay of carrying cash and valu‐

ableS(paSSpO■ , traVellerS ChequCS, CrCdit CardS etC)iS a faVOurite tOpiC OftraVel COn― versation.The simple ansiヽ ′ eris that therc is

no foolproofincthod.The general principle is to keep things out of sight. The front pouch belt,lor example,presents an Obvi― ous targetう or a、 ″ould― be thief― Only lllar‐ ginally less inviting than a fat 、 vallct bulging lrOrn yOur back pocket. The best place is under yOur cIOthes in contact 、 vith your skin 、 vhere, hopenully, ′ you、 ′ 11l be a、 、 are of an alicn hand belorc it's too late. Most peoplc opt for a llloncy

bclt, while Others prefer a leather pOuch hung around the neck. V/hichever rllethod you choose,put your valuables in a plastic bag nrst_。 ther、′ ise they、vill get soakcd in svヴ

eat as you wander arounclin the heat.

ing overthe price ofhotelrooms orグ ο″α′ ノ α (the Greck equivalent ofthe British bed and breakね St,minuS the breakね St),eSpeCially if you are intending to stay a ne、 v days.lFou

niay get short shrift in peak season, but priccs can drop dranlatically in the off sea―

son. Souvenir shops and rnarkct stalls are other places、 `here your negotiating skills

∼ will come in handy.If you tel uncomlort―

able about haggling,walking away can be just as effective―

you can always gO back.

POST&CO)MMUNICAT]ONS POSt OfiCeS′ α″ グ′ ο″ノ ο ノare eaS‖ y identi― ■able by rllcans ofthe yello、 v signs outside. Regular post boxes are also yello、 .The red ∼ boxes are for cxpress rnail only.

Postal Rates The postal rate for postcards and airrnail

Costs

letters to destinations、 vithin thc EtJ is 170

retc is cheap by northern European stan― dards,but it is no longer dirt‐ cheap,cspe―

dr for up to 20g and 270 dr for up to 50g.

ciany in the high season(July and August). A rock― bottom daily budget 、ould be ∼ 6000 dr. This l"′ ould rnean hitching, staying in

up to 20g and 300 dr for up to 150g.Post 、 vithin Europe takes ifive to eight days and

vay lrorn bars,and only occasionally cating in restau―

sell starnps,but with a 1096 surcharge.

ow atleast 12,000

should cnsurc dclivcry in thrce days wi

([〕

youth hosteis or canlping,staying a、 rants or taking nerries.A‖

1｀

o other destinatlons the rate ls 200 dr for

to the USA,Australia and New Zealand, nine to ll days.Soine tourist shops also Exprcss nlail costs an extra 400 dr

FaCtS fOr theヽ ′ isitor―

thc EU ― usc the special red pOst boxes.

ヽ7aluables should be scnt registered pOst, 、 vhich costs an extra 350 dr.

Sendlng Mall I:)o not wrap a parcel until it has been in― spected at a post ofice in lrakliO,take yOur parcel to the ccntral pOst Of16ce On Plateia [)askalogianni,and else、 vhere tO the parcci counter of a regular pOst Ofice.

Receiving Mail YOu Can reCeiVe mail pOSte reStante(general deliveヮ )at any main post omce. ´ he service is fiee,but you are required I｀

to show your passport.Ask senders to Ⅵ′ rite your family name in capital letters on the enVelope and underline it,and tO nlark the envelope`poste restante'.It is a g00d idea tO ask the post ofnce clerk to check under your first name as、 vell ifletters yOu are ex=

pecting cannot be located.After one month, uncollected nlail is returned tO the senden lf you are aboutto leave a to、 vn and expected rnail hasn't arrived,ask atthe pOst Ofice tO have it forwardcd to your next destinatiOn, c/o poste restante.

Parcels are not delivered in lCrete, they

Post&Communications 59

lt is possiblc to use variOus natiOnal card eistra Australia's llele‐

schcnles, such as・

I・

card,to nlake international calis.You、 vill still need a phonecard to dial the schenle's

access nunlber, 、hich wili cost you One ∼ unit,and the tinle you spend on the phone is charged at 10cal call rates.

Intemational calis can alsO be made■ 01m C)TE ofnces.A counter clerk dirccts you tO a

cubicle equipped with a metered phOnc,and payrnentis made ane:￢ ,vards.

Villages and remote isiands without OTE ofices almost always have at least One me‐ tered phone for internatiOnal and 10ng dis_

tanCe CaliS― uSually in a ShOp, たα/υ ″θ′ ο (Cat)。 rtaVema. Reversc charge(c。 llect)calis can be

made ionl an()TE ofice.lf you are using a private phone to inake a reverse charge

can,dial the operator(domestic● 151, international● 161). 11。 call overseas direct nrorn(〔 〕 rcte, dial

the Greck overseas access cOde(管 00),お 1‐ 10ヽ Ved by the COuntry COde 10r the COuntry you are calling, thcn the local area code (drOpping the leading ZerO if there iS OnC) and then the nunlber.1「 he table be10v/1ists sorne country codes and per-1■

linute charges:

rnust be collected frolll the pOst Office.

Telephone The(3reek telcphone service is inaintained by the public corpOratiOn knO、 .n as C)rgan― ∼ ismos Tnepikoinonion E‖ ados,which is al―

Ways referred to by the acronynl()TE (prOnOunCed O‐ tay).The SyStem iS mOdern and eficient. Public telephOnes ali take ′ phonecards, 、 へ hich cost 1000 dr for 100 units, 1800 dr lor 200 units, 4200 dr for 500 units,and 8200 dr for 1000 units.´ 「 hc 100-unit cards are 、 videly available at ′″α, COrnCr ShOpS and tOuriSt ShOpS; F'`″ 71υ ′ the others can be bought at()TE offices. ´ 「 he phOnes are easy tO Operate and can be used fOr iocal, 10ng distance and inter― national calls.1lhe`i'at the tOp left Of the push― button dialling panel brings up the Op_ erating instructions in English. 1)on't re‐ inove your card bcfore you are tOld tO dO sO or you、 vill、vipe Out the renlaining credit. Local calls cost one unit per nlinute.

country

code

cost per

minute(dr) Australia

France Gernlany

● 61 ● 33 ● 49

236 183 183 183

lrcland

1コ

ltaly

● 39

183

Japan Ncthcrlands

319

UK

● 81 ● 31 で '64 τ '90 ■

USA&Canada

■

236

New Zcaland

´ 「 urkcy

'353

'44 1

183

319 183 183

´

(:)ff peak rates are 25% cheaper. 「 hey are available to Alrica,Europe,the rvliddle East and lndia bet、 veen 10 pin and 6 am;to the

Americas between ll p:1l and 8 am;and to Asia and()ceania between 8 pnl and 5 am. ´ o cali Crctc thc international access I｀

codc is'● 30.

60 Facts for the Visitor―

lnternet Resources

goCrctc.com w、 へ v.gocrete.corn/

Useful Phone Nurnbers Directory inquiries lnternational dia‖ ing

●

'131 7:'169

(Intcrnct Guidc to Crctc)

GTP schedule

www gtpnet gr (Greekた ry schcdulcs)

instructions in English,

French and German lnternati()nal access

Intcrkriti

て

、へv.intcrkriti.gr 、′

τ

(Links to hoteis,apan:τ lents,shops and rcstau― rants as we‖ as an active bunctin board)

'30

code to call Greece lnternational access

'00

code from within Greece Tb‖

Ktcl

wwwktel org (Maps and schedules of buscs around the is―

― free 24 hour ernergency phone

land)

OTE

nunlbers:

wwwЮ tc.gr

Police Tourist Police

Ambulance(Athens) Fire Brigade

Roadside Assistance(ELPA)

● ●'100 ' 171 1:'166 て ' 199 ■

(On‖ nC tCICphOnC dirCCtOry fOr CrCtC With 、 vhitc pagcsin Greek and ycllow pages in Eng― liSh) Stigrncs

www.brthnctgr/stigmcs/dcstcret htm

'104

(Magazinc of Crctc)

凸 凸 出 凸 出 出 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

Fax&￢ elegraph

BC)OKS

Most post offices have fax machines;

Most books arc published in di資 lerent edi‐ tions by difnerent publishers in different

telegrams can be sent fronl any()TE ofnce.

countries.

Emall&internet Access

rariけ in One COuntry While it'S read‖

Crete was siow to embrace the wonders of

able in paperback in another. Fortunately,

the lnternet,but is no、 v striving to lnake up lor lost tinle.Internet cafes are springing up every、 vhere,and are listed under the lnfor―

bookshops and libraries search by title or au‐

rnation section for cities、 ″herc available.

folloゝ ′ ing

There has also been a huge increase in the nunlber of hotels and businesses using enlail,and these addresses have been listed 、 vhere avallable. Sornc hoteis catering for travellers offer internet access.

INT■ RN■ TR■ S(D)URCES The Lonely Pianetヽ Veb site(ww.lonely planet.COm)haS inお rmatiOn On Crete,aS vν

ell as travei ne、 s,updates to our guidc―

∼ books and links to other travel rcsourccs

As a resuit,a book inlight be a hardcover

thor,so your local bookshop orlibrary is best placed to advise you on the availability ofthe

Lonely Planet

I｀

rich your visit.

Kathcrine (:〕

athensne、 vs dolnet gr/

「 he dally English languagc newspaper's site)

GNTO

(′

www arcianct.gノ infbxcnios/cnglisVcrctc/crctc .htmi

(GNTO's pagc for Crete)

rccommendations.

´ 「 he 4th edition of Lonely I)lanet's guide to(,″ ι ιιιhas conlprehensive coverage of ′ 、 mainland(I)reccc as 、 ell as the islands (including Crete),、 vhile thc Lonely Planet guides to ル グブ ′ ′′ ″α″θα″ Eク ′ ο and il'ι `′ ″セ ′E“ ″ ο l′ `′ `′ `also include coverage of g. Crete, as does E″ ″ ο′ι ο″ α S力 οas′ ′ノ ″ ´ he handy G′ ι メ フ カ″ αs`bο οた、 vill help cn―

You may also ifind these sites useful:

Athcns News

y aVail‐

`た

Iく izllos

vividly

evokes

reece's iandscapes,people and politics in

ッ ″ ′ her book 71カ ι O′ ノ ονι: 7ン ανθ′ s ノ , ` (フ (:,″ ′ ′ε `. Sheof explores the horncland, islands and borderlands her father's and line in her fanllly's village in the Pclopon_

nesc Mountains. The book is part of the Journeys travel literature series.

Facts for the lVisitor―

Thesc titles arc available at maJOr language bookshops in lraklio, Hania and Rethymno. Sce the lBookshops English―

entries in these sections for inore details.

BOOks 61

Mythologyヽ ″as an intrinsic part oflife in ancient Crete, and solne knowledge of it W‖ l enhanCC yOur ViSit.Z″ ιGκ ιた■ク″S by Robert(3raves is regarded as the deinitive book on the subJcct.Maureen O'Sunivan's

Cuidebooks ι βノ ンι For archaeology buffs, the C)で ′ グ is hard to beat.'They go into trenlcn― Gン プ dous detail about all the rnaJOr sites, and nlany ofthe lesser kno、 n ones. lι

∼

グ′ゎ ′ 力θGr``た Gο グs И″ ′ θο″οι′ αs′ ζ G″ ′ presents entertaining and accessible ver― sions ofthe rnyths.

There are many translations of Homcr's ル αグ and O″SSり ,WhiCh tell the StOry Of 7ar and the subsequent adven― the´ rOJanヽ ル tures Of()dysscus.´「 he translations by EV I｀

Travel ,夕7′ as ρ ′C′′″ by David MacNcill Doren is 、′ idcly avallable on Crete.It's an anlusing accOunt Ofisiand life as experienced by an

American and his Swedish wit. ″ ′θ ″′ ο C′・ ′′ ップ “ pOrtrayal of ` by Oliver Burch is a compelling υ′グι′Aイbン ″′」 ″α:И

Jο

Rien are arnong the best. 71カ

′ ブ 0″ by・ heodor θ′ 4″ gο ″ α′′ εαEχ :ρ ′ar」 ′ 「

Troev enconlpasses (3reek inythology, archaeology,travel and adventurc.It relates the voyage undertaken by thc author and his cre、 v

in the 1980s tllat followed in thc l()ot―

this diverse and beautiful isiand_null of in_ sights intO its iandscape,history and people.

steps ofJason and the Argonauts.

“ ivliller Mlller is no、 v regarded as a classic. relates his travels in lCrete and lClrete at the outbreak ofヽ VWII、vith feverish enthusiasnl.

D′ 。and

動 a Cο ′ οSSン Sげ

M″ ο SSf by Henry

gカ ノ ″ Cra′ ιby JE Hllar)′ Skin‐ Rο ン ″g′ ′」

ner is an EnglishiΥ lan's account of his cxpericnces ighting the′ rurks with cretan rcbels in the rnid-1 9th century.

Peopie i&Society 物′ ′9′ αカン″by PandeliS PreVelakiS re― cOunts the author's life in early 20th‐

century Rethymno and includes a nloving

Mary Rcnault's novels providc an excel― ″gソワ lent fecl for ancient Crctc.五 カθκ′

iン s′

・ ″ :′ 力 a Saα are ViVid rヵ ′β ′ ′′ ο′

“ tales of rνlinoan tirnes.

′ ′by JDS Pendle― 動 ″ θ ο′ ο ι cЙ α ν グ C′・ `Иan excellent guide to the archaeo― bury is ′グbο οた′ ο logical sights on the isiand and〃α ヵ α′ αι 。9′ 1′ィ メ ″。stens you all you need t。 ′ `′v about the Palace of Knossos. knO、 〃′ ′ ι by Thcocharis E s′ ο ッ ο /Cr′ ′ Dctorakis is an extraordinarily corinpletc guide tO Cretan history frorn the Minoan tirnes up to,but not including,the 13attle of Crete. (]″ ι ′ α′ Rン ″″′″ by

(I)eOrgc Psy―

account of the arrival of refugees frorn Snlyrna in 1923. ιたルィ ′ ″Aィαaι s′ ″,P′ ′was written by G′ ′ an anonyrrlous English wonlan to explain

choundakis is an exciting and personal ac‐ count of the Cretan resistance.´「 he author

thc mating habits and peculiarities ofGrcck

Allies

men.Essential reading nor foreign、

vomen

、as a runner dclivering nlessages to thc ∼ (二 :′(2′

力θRて ,s′ sra′ ,`′ by ′ π力′βα′ ′ ノ ′α′ ′

Antony Bcevor is a short and readable `′

cOnternplating an affair in Crete.

analysis of the Allied defeat.

History&Mythology И ルανι′ ′ θr b〃

r′ 7′

″ ′ ι′ ,,′ ′ by θl″ )ε θ s α′グ Cο ″′

οッ ο /C′ ″ by TimOthy `S′

Boatswain&Colin Nicholson gives the

of the Allied soldicrs.

laypcrson a good general reference on the historical background of Crete, う roin Ne―

Poetry

olithic tirnes to the present day.

Sαlρ ρ力ο

・ ル ″′ ′ ′〃,s′ ο′ ″ C″θた И S力 ο″ γ

by CM

`ο VVoodhouse is in a siinilar vein,although it

、ing bent.It covers the period has a right― 、 ■om Constantine thc Grcatto 1990.

L__￨口 而 1:iF

Evelyn

Waugh recounts the hair― raising evacuation

′ ο′ , И ルrι ′7・″ α″s′ α′

by Mary

“ transiation of this great Bernard is the best ancient poet's、vorks. Cο ノ ′ ′ι′ ′グ Pο ι〃s

S`′ θ ε′ ′′ ′οι″,s

by Georgc Seferis, by Odysseus Elytis and

62 Facts for the visitOr_Fi:ms

Cο ′ ′ たグ Pο ′″S by COnStantine CaVafシ `σ are all excellent translatiOns of(Crete's

greatest rnodern pOets.

И′ sげ C″ 盈 ,ル sこ 錫 ″″らsげ ″7ο ″′″ “ M′ ″ ″α′P′ α″ なο /C″ ″

C″′ た and

.

`′

Children's B00ks

Novels The inost well known and widely read Greek authOr is the crctan writer Nikos Kazantzakis, v/hOsc novcls are full of dranla and larger‐ than_life characters. His

mostね mous wOrks are r″ θιαs′ 7を ″′′ α_ ′ わ″,Zο ″らα″ιG″ ′た,C力 ″お′R′ ιr“ ε′′グ and F″ ι′グο″ ο″D`α ′ み_The irsttwO have bcen made intO ■Ims. Zb″ ια ′ ″ιG″ ′θた takes place On Crete and prOvides a fasci_ nating gliinpse Ofthe harsher side of Cre‐

tan culture. ZOrba is one Of the wOrid's greatest litcrary characters but 、 vOrncn

need to be preparcd for a nlega_dose of

′ 「 he(]reek publisher Malliaris― Paedia puts

out a good series of books on thc(:〕 reck

inyths,retold in lEnglish fOr yOung readcrs by Aristides Kesopou10s..The tities are r跨 ′ Gο あ 9′ 0ケ ″フア Sα ″ ′″θZο ss″ Gο あ ,Z力 θ ια♭。′ぉ q′ ″′κン′ ′ s,rヵ as`“ sα ″グ′ ヵιるッ_

αg′ q′ ″′И″ g。 ″ α″rs,r物 ′ル″α″″27″ α″グ ′ 力ι ″竹″″ ″ ′ ″gS ο′0め ′ 'SSa″ S and〃 θ Ю′s α′グルタルメ ′C″ α′″s. `α “ ing of rあ θOめ,ss`ツ is Robin Lister's rete‖ aimed at Slightly 01der readerS(ageS 10 tO

12),but makes compening listening fOr younger children.

nllsogyny.

Bookshops

Botanica:F:e:d(Guides

There are several English-language b00k_ shops in lrakliO, as well as shops selling

rヵ θ F′ 。″ι ″ sq′ C″ ′′ θι

′ ″ ag′ α″ by `И is the ヽ Villiam Taylor&I Anthony Huxley lΥlost cOinprehensive neld guide to crete.

books in iFrench,(]erman and ltalian.・ here are also good fOreign― language bookshOps

The(3reck,writer,naturalist and inOun― taineer([}eOrge Sikas has 、 vritten lnany

(See thOSe SeCtions lor details).

b00kS On Wildlit in Crete.Among them are

have bOOkshops that sell sOine foreign_

r｀

in Hania,Rethymno and Agios NikolaOs All other mう or towns and tOurist resorts

language books.InlpOrted books are expen_ sive― nOrnlally tv′ o tO three tirnes the rec_

Ornrnended retall priCe in the tJK and the

USA.Man)′ hoteis have secOnd― hand books to read or swap. Abroad,the best bookshOp for new and sccond― hand books abOut Crete,written in

both English and([〕 reck, is the Hellenic

B00k Service(● 020-72679499,fax 020‐ 72679498),91 Fortress Rd,Kentish TOwn, London NW5 1A(}It stocks almost a11 0f the books recOrnrncnded here. F」

LMS

The most famous movie■ lmed on Crcte was undoubtedly zο ″ ια′ 力′G″ ′′たwhich WaS ShOt in Stavros on the Akrotirl Penln―

)ns.In 1956,the AmeriCan director Jules Dassinィ ハiθ ν 0″ Sula aS V/ell aS Otller ioCati〈 S″ ″ ″α 〃

`″ chose Kritsa as the backdropお r ′ ′ ′ ク,ο ■ィンs′ つた,the funl version of Katzantzakis'novcl C力 ″s′ R“ ″ンι′′グ starring DaSsin's wife,Mclina Mcrcouri. ,う

Nikos Ka2antZakiS

The■ lm 10vingly captured the worn faces

L_

Facts for the Visitor―

t精

11lagerS'many° f Wh° m aCtCd in

鷺ぶ

・ I｀

NewsPapers&Maga2ineS 63

he best short‐ wave frequcncies for pick‐

ing up the BIBC〕 VVOrld Service are:

NEWSPAPERS&MACAZINES

GMT

frequency

Greeks are great ncヽ vspaper rcaders.There are 15 daily newspapers,Of、 vhich the nlost

3 to 7 30 anl

Ⅵ′ idely read are 7b.Ⅳ iaα , 」 (α rカ メ ″,ι ″ノ ″」and E′ ψ 力 ′わSワ ′οS. Thc main English‐ language ne、 ′ spapers are the da‖ y(exceptiMonday)И ′ ノ ,θ ″ s A4′ ″s

9.41 MHz(31m band) 618 MHz(49m band)

7.30 anlto 6 prn

15.07 MHz(19m band) 12 09 MHz(25m band) 15 07 MHz(19m band)

1209 MHz(25m band) 9.41 MHz(31m band) 618 MHz(49m band)

(250 dr)which carries Greek and intcr_ natiOnal news, and the 、 veekly J′ ′ノ ノ ι′′ ι η as(300 dr),with predominantly Greek “ news.The English and German ncwspaper,

6 30 to l1 15 prn

Crι ′ αs′ 〃

As far as Greek TV is concerned,it's a case

ι′,is published monthly during

“ in Rethymno and cOntains the summer Greck news,Cretan features and nlany ads. Thc inonthly inagazine,ム 0で ′ α,is on sale in a varicty of languagcs and cOntains sonlc useful inforrnation amidst the ads.In addi― tion to thesc,the Athens edition Of the f′ ′ θ′ ″α′ ′ ο′α′_″「 ′″αノ ′ r″ ブ らン″

of quantity rather than quality.There are nine TV channeis and various pay― ・ V chan_ 「 nels.Allthe channels sho、 v English and US ■lnls and soapies with(]reck subtitles_へ bit of channcl―

_

` (350 dr) inCludes an eight page English― language edition ofthe Greek dailyメ (α ′ ′ ,メ ″ ,`″ ′ ′′ .All

s、

vapping wili nornlally turn up

sonlething in English. Local Cretan chan―

neis include Creta Channel, Kastro TV, Kidon TM CreteTV Crete l,and Sitia TV Most ofthe better quality hotels have satel‐

are、 idely available in lrakliO and at nll,Or

lite TV Where you can pick up CNN.

resorts.You'1l find the И′ 力ι″s ivi′ s elec― tronic editiOn at athensne、 vs.doinet.gr On

VlDE(O SYST■ MS

∼

11′

the internct.The site's archives date back

If you wanttO record or buy video tapes tO

to 1995.

Foreign newspapers are also

、 vidcly

available. ヽ rOu'll find ali the iBritish and

∼ ble with the North American and Japanese

other maJor European dailies,as well as internatiOnal inagazines such as 77′ ハi`″ swο ′たand the五 ο″ο′な′ “ lι

play back horne,yOu wOn't get a picture un― less the inlage registration systerns are the Same.Crete uses PAL,、 hich is incompati_

″θ ,

NTSC system.Australia and most Of Eu― rope usc PAL.

.

RAD10&TV

Crete has two state― Owncd radio channels,

PHOTOGRAPHY&V:DEO Fil『 n(&Equipnlent

ET l and ET 2.ET l runs three prOgralms;

MI萄 or brands Of ilm are widely avanable.

two are dcvOted tO pOpularimusic and ne、

7s,

、 vhile the third plays inOstly classical music.

In irakliO,expectto pay about 1500 dr for

a36 exposure roll of Kodak Gold ASA

It haS a news update in English at 7.30 ain

100; less f{)r other brands.lFOu'1l ind all

MOnday tO Saturday,and at 9 pnl Monday

thc gear yOu need in thc photography

to Friday.It can be heard On 91.6ヽ 4Hz and 105.81MHz on the Fヽ 4 band,and 729 1Kl‐ lz

tourist areas.

shops OfirakliO and other rna」

Or to、 vns

and

on the AM band.ET 2 broadcasts inainly

Because of the brilliant sunlight in sunl―

popular rnusic. Cornrtlercial radiO statiOns tend to con― ine their brOadcasts tO nlaJOr urban areas.

rner,you'1l get be■ er results using a polar― ising lens■ lte■

The hilis around Athcns are bristling、 ′ ith

ilin iS a conlpetitive business.Most places charge around 80 dr per print,plus a 400 dr servicc charge.

radio transnlitters, but the chOice is very linnited on the isiands.

As eise、 vhere in the 、 vorld, developing

64 Facts for the Visitor―

Rest Tヽ

Timle

ctions

Public toilets are rare,except at airports

lever phOtOgraph a inilitary installation or

anything eise that has a sign forbidding photography. Flash photography is not al― lowed inside churches,and it's considered taboo to photograph the nlain altan Cretans usually love having their photos ays ask permission irst.´「 he taken,but al、 ′

∼ sanle goes 10r vldeo cameras.

1・ 11円

and bus and train stations. Cafes arc the best option if you get caught short, but

yOu'!i be expected to buy something for the privilege. ()ne peculiarity of the lC)retan plunlbing systenl is that it can't handle toilet paper,

apparently the pipes are too narrow.What‐

ever the reasOn, anything iarger than a postage stanlp secrns to cause a problenl. Flushing away tampons and sanitary nap‐

引E

Crete istwo hours ahead ofGMT/UTC and

kins is guaranteed to block the systern.1:ol‐

threc hours ahead on daylight‐ saving tinlc,

let paper etc should be placed in the small bin provided in cvery toilet.

、 vhich begins on the last Sunday in March

v/hen clocks are put lorward one hour. Daylight saving ends on the last Sunday in Septenlber. So,、 hen itis noon in Crete itis 10 anl in

∼ London,1l arn in Rorlle,2 am in San Fran― cisco,5 anlin Neヽ v York and Toronto,8 prn in Sydncy and 10 pnlin Auckland.

HEALTH ravcl health depends on your pre― departure preparatiOns, your day― to― day health care while travelling and ho、 v you handle any l・

rlledical problern or enlergency that docs dc‐

ve10p.While the list ofpotential dangers can

seem quite■ ightening,few traveners expe_

ELECTRICITY

rience rnore than upset stornachs.

Electricity is 220V,50 cycles.Plugs are the

standard continental type with two round pins.All hoteiroorns have power points and nlost canlping grounds have supply points.

PreⅢ departure

Planning

Health insurance sec・ rravel lnsurance under Visas&Documents earlier in this chapter for inlornlation.

WEIGHTS&MEASuRES Crete uses the metric system.Liquids― es‐ pecially barrel、 vine― are sold by weight rather than volurne: 959g of wine, lor ex―

ample,is equivalent to 1000■ lL. Remenlber that, like other continental Europeans,Greeks indicate decinlals u′ ith ith points. conlnlas and thousands Ⅵ′

LAUNDRY

vvarning cOdeine, which is co■ lmonly lound in headache preparations,is banned in Crete; check labels carefully, or risk prosecution. ´ 「 here are strict regulations applying to the inlpoitation of medicines into Crete,so

obtain a certincate nrom your doctor which Outlines any nledication you nlay have to carつ ′into the countiう ′With you.

Large to、 vns and sorne isiands have laun― drettes.・ 「

hey charge frorn 2000 dr to 2500

dr to、 vash and dry a load、 vhether you do it

yoursclf or have it service‐

washed.IIostels

Health Preparations Make sure you're healthy before you start travelling. If you are enlbarking on a long trip lllake sure your

and rOonl o、vners、vill usually provide you

teeth are OK.

with a washtub.

If yOu、 vear glasses take a spare pair and your prescription.

T01LETS ヽ4ost places in(3rete have、

If you require a particular inedication vestern‐ s,le toi―

lets,especially hote:s and restaurants which caterう or tourists.You'1l occasionally corne across Asian― style squat toiiets in older αand public toilets. hOuSeS,た 9ノυ″ι′

vith you, as it take an adequate supply 、 ake inay not be available locally in c;rete.´ r｀

the prescription or,better still,part ofthe packaging sho、ving the generic rather than

the brand narne yOu uSe at hOnle(WhiCh

FadtS for the Visitor―

Medical l《 it(3heck List Fo‖ owing

:mmunisations No jabs are requiredお r

is a list ofiterls you should cOn‐

siderincluding in yOur nnedical kit― consult

your pharnlacist for brands available ln your country

Aspirin or paracetarnol(aCetamin‐ Ophen in the USA)― for pain or fever □ Antihistamine― for a‖ ergiest eg,hay [コ

feveri to ease the itch from insect bites

or stingsi and tO prevent rnotion slck‐

ness E] (:old and flu tab!ets,throat:。 zenges

and nasal decongestant [コ

Multivitamins ― cOnslder for long trips,when dietary vitarnln intake nlay

be inadequate [コ

`Antibiotics― cOnsider includlng these if you're travelling wel1 0ff the beaten

traCkisee yOur dOctot as they must be prescribed,and carry the prescription with you

E] LoPeramide or diphenoxylate―

'block―

e rs'for diarrhoea □I

Hea!th 65

PrOCh:Orpera2ine Or metaC!OPramide

travel to Crete but a yellow fever vaccina_ tion certificate is required ifyou arc conling

nrom an infected area.There are,however, a ne、′routine vaccinatlons that are recorn_

´ rnendcd. 「 hese shOuld be recorded on an internati()nal health ccrtificate, available

nrom your doctor or governrnent health de_ partinent. I)on't leavc your vaccinatiOns until the last nlinutc as sOnle require nlore

than onc ingection.Rcconlmended vaccina― tions include: Tetanus & :Diphtheria BoOstcrs arc ncccssaiう ′ cvcry 10 years and protection is highly recOrn_

nlcndcd. Polio A、 booster Of cithcr thc oral or inJCCtCd vac―

cinc is required cvcry 10 years tO rnaintain illll■ unity aftcr childhOOd vaccination.PoliO is still prcvalent in many dcve10ping countries Hepatitis A The mOst cOmmOn travcl― acquircd ilincss that can bc prcvcnted by vaccination. Protection can be prOvidcd in t、 vo ways― thcr with the antibody garnnla globulin or with

ci―

the vaccine Havrix 1440 Havrix 1440 pro― VidCS IOng― tCrm immunity(pOSSibly mOrC than 1 0 yCarS)a■ er an initial inJeCtion and a booster

― for nausea and vOmitlng

□ Rehydration mixture― to prevent de― hydration, which may Occui for ex―

ample, during bOuts Of diarrhoeal particularly impOnant when trave‖ ing vvith children

lnsect repe!!ent, sunscreen, !i:)ba!nl

and eye droPS Ca!amine lotion,sting re!ief sPray or a:oe vera― to ease irritation from sun― burn and insect bltes or stlngs

Antifungal creanl or powder

― fOr

at six to 12 months.Gamma globulin,a rcady―

made antibody, should be givcn as c10se as possible to dcparturc bccausc it is at its most eficctivc in the irstた w wccks a■ cr adminis― tration and the cffcctivcncss tapcrs Off gradu―

ally betwccn three and six months. Rabies Prc― travcl rabics vaccination involvcs having threc inJcctions over 21 to 28 days and should be cOnsidcred by thOsc who wili spend a nlonth or longer in a country、

vhere rabics is

cornmon,especially if they arc cycling, han― dling animals, caving, travclling tO ren10tc

fungal skin infectiOns and thrush

arCaS,Or taking Children(WhO may nOt rCpOn

Antiseptic(such as POVidone‐ iodine) ―for cuts and grazes

a bitC).If SOrneOneヽ VhO haS been vaccinatcd is bittcn or scratchcd by an anin,ai thcy will re―

Bandages, Band‐ Aids(P:asters)and other wound dに ssings

quirc two bOOstcr inJCCtions of vaccinc;those not vaccinatcd、 vili rcquirc inOre

VVater purification tab:ets or iodine

scissOrs,meezers and a thermometer ―note that mercury thermometers aに prohibited by alrlines

凸 凸

Basic Rules Care in、 vhat yOu eat and drink is the most ilmpOrtant health rule.Stomach upsets are the

mOSt likely traVel health prOblem(betWeen 30'6 and 509る of travellers in a“ o week Stay eXpCrienCe thiS)but the inaJOrity Of

may nOt bC 10CaHy aVailable),aS it Will

theSe upSets Win bc relatively mino■

nlake getting replacenlents easier

become paranOid;trying the local fOOd is

you are in Crete.

、 vhile

Don't

part of the experience oftravel,aner all.

66 Facts for the Visitor―

Food 8:VVater Tap、 vater

Hea:th

is sane to drink

in Crcte,but mineral water is widely avail― able if you prefer it.You inight experiencc mild intcstinal problems if you're not used

to copious anlounts of olive oil;however, you'll get used to it and current research says it's good lor you. Ifyou don't vary your diet,are travelling hard and fast and missing rneals,or sinlply lose your appetite,you can soon startto lose 、 veight and place)′ our health at risk. Fruit

Environmental Ha2ardS sunburn By far the biggest health risk in

Crete comes金 oln the intensity of thc sun. YOu can gct sunburnt surprisingly quickly, cven thrOugh cloud.IJsing a sunscreen and taking extra care to cover the areas、 vhich don't nornlally sec sun helps,as does zinc creanl or sonle othcr barrier crearn for your nOSe and lipS・ Calarnine 10tiOn iS 300d for nlild sunburn.Cretans claiin that yogurt ap―

plied to sunburn is soothing. Protect your eyes、vith good quality sunglasses.

and vegetablcs are goo(l slources of vitarnins

and Crete produces a greater variety of thesc than ainlost any othcr European coun―

try.Eat plenty ofgrains(including ricc)and bread.If your dict isn't、 vell‐ balanced or if yOur fOOd intake is insuFncient,it's a good idea to takc vitarnin and iron pills.

veather inake sure you drink In hot 、 enOugh― don't rely on feeling thirsty to in―

Prickly Heat Prickly heat is an itchy rash caused by exccssive perspiration trapped under the skin. Keeping cool but bathing ′ der or even Often,using a mild talcurn po、 へ rcsOrting to air― conditioning may help until you acclimatise.

dicate when you should drink.Tヽ lot needing

Heat Exhaustion lDehydration or salt de―

tO urinate or very dark ye1low urine is a

iclency can cause heat exhaust10n. rake

danger sign. Al、vays carry a、 vater bottle with iyou on long trips.Exccssive si".eating can lead to 10ss of salt and therefore muscle cramping. Salttablets are not a good idea as a prevcn― tative,but in placcs、 vhere salt is not used rnuch,adding salt to food can help.

time tO acclinlatise to high tenlperatures,

C

(986° F)i nlore than 2° C(4° F)higherindl― cates a hlgh feve「 The normal adult pulse

rate ls 60 to 100 per nlinute(children 80

to 100.babies 100 to 140).As a general rule the pulse increases about 20 beats per minute for each l° C(2° F)rise in feveL

Respiration (breathing)rate is also an indlcator of illness (二

ount the number of

breaths per i■ ,inute:Between 12 andi 2()is

nornlal for adults and lolder children(up to

30 for younger chlldren, 40 for bables) People with a high fever or serious re― SPiratory i‖

nluscle cramps and in this case salt tablets may help. lVlorniting or diarrhoea can de― plete your liquid and salt ieveis.

Everyday lHealth NOrmal bOdy temperature is up to 37°

Vear loose and drink sufficient liquids. ヽ clothing and a broad‐ brimrned hat.I)o not do anything too physically dernanding. Salt deiciency is charactcrised by fa― tiguc, lethargy, headaches, giddiness and

ness breathe nllore quickly than

Heat Stroke This serious, sometimes fatal,condition can occurifthe body's heat―

regulating mechanisnl breaks down and the body tenlperature rises to dangerous levels.

Long, continuous periods of exposure to high tenlperatures can leave you vuinerable

to heat strokc.You should avoid exCessive alcohol consunlption or strenuous activity 、 vhen you irst arrive in a hot climate.

Thc symptoms are teling unwell,not

sⅥ ア cating

very inuch or at all and a high bOdy tcinperaturc(39° C to 41° C or 102° F

F).Where sweating has ccased,the skin becornes flushcd and red. Severe,

to 106°

′breaths a Aore than 40 shallo、 へ norrnal ハ minute rnay indicate pneumonia.

thrObbing headaches and lack of coordina― tiOn、 vill also occur,and the sufferer may be cOnfused Or aggressive.Eventually the victilm will becorne delirious or convul‐

凸 鰺 鰺 立 凸 些 鰊 鰤 巾 些 凸 聰

sive.Hospitalisation is cssential,but in the

Fadts for theヽ ′ isitor―

interim get victirns Out Of the sun,remove thcir c10thing,cOverthem with a wet sheet or towel and then fan continually.(:live flu_ ids ifthey are cOnsciOus.

Health 67

Under ali CirCumStanCeSノ ン″ ″ ′ ′″ει″ (atleaSt equaltO the Volurne being loSt)iS the

′

`″

mOst impOnant thing tO rememben weak

Fungal infections Fungal infections,

black tea、 vith a little sugar,soda water,or s。 ■ drinks alloⅥ ′ ed to go nat and diluted 5096 with clean、 vater are all good.

which occur with greater fiequency in hot 、 veathet are most likely tO Occur On the scalp, between the tOes Or llngers, in the

nammation ofthe livcr itis a common dis_

Hepatitis Hepatitis is a general terin 10r in_

vorrri

ease woridwide.The symptoms are tver,

(WhiCh iS a fungal intCtiOn,nOt a WOrm) ■om inた cted animals or by walking On

chills,headache,fatigue,feelings of weak―

damp arcas like shOwer n。 。rs. ・rlo prevent fungal infections wear l。 。sc, comlortable clothes,avoid a■ incial ibres,

of appctite, nausea, vOnliting, abdOminal pain, dark urine, light― coloured facces,

jaundiCed(ye‖ OW)Skin and the WhiteS Of

wash lrequently and dry carenully.Ifyou d。

the eyes may turn yel10、

get an infection, 、 vash the infected area

Hepatitis A is transmitted by contami― nated food and drinking water.Thc disease

grOin and On the bOdy.lY40u get ring、

daily with a disinfectant Or medicated sOap and water,and rinse and dryヽ ″ell.Apply an antinungal crearn or p。 、 vder like the widely ´ available・ rinaderin. 「 ry to expose the in_

fectcd area to air Or sunlight as nluch as possible and wash alltOwels and under、 vear in hot water as well as changing them。 食en.

ness and aches and pains,lollol″

ed by loss

v.

poses a real threat tO the Western traveller. lY7。

u should seck rnedical advice,but there

is nOt nluch yOu can dO apart f'om resting, drinking lots of fluids, eating lightly and

avoiding fatty foods.People、 vho have had

hepatitis should avOid alcOhOl fOr sOmc tinle anter the iliness,as the liver nccds tirne

Motion Sickness Sea sickness can be a

to recover.

problenl.The Aegean is very unpredictable and gets very rough when the,″ ′ vind θ″ 、

and can be ver)′ Serious in prcgnant women.

,」

blo、 vs.Ifyou

`′

are prone to n10tiOn sickness,

Hepatitis E is translnited in the same、

vay,

´ I｀

hcre are almost 300 1■ lilllon chronic car―

eat lightly‐ befOre and during a trip and try

riers of Hepatitis B in the、 vorld.It is spread

to lind a place that minirnises disturbance― near the、 ′ ings on aircraft,cIOse t0 1nidships

through contact with infected blood,blood

on boats,nearthe centre on buses.Fresh air usually helps;reading and cigarette snloke

through sexual contact,unsterilised needlcs

don't.Conllmercial nlotion‐ sickness prepa― ′ rations, 、 vhich can cause dro、 、 siness, have

bloOd via s11lali breaks in the skin. Other risky situatiOns include having a shave,tat‐

to be taken belore the trip cOrnnlcnces; when iyou're neeling sick it'st。 。late.(〕 in_

too,or having your body pierced with con‐

ger(aVailable in CapSule fOrrn)and pepper―

type B may belTlore severe and may lead to

mint(including mint_navoured sweets)are

long― ternl problenls. Hepatitis:D is spread

natural preventatives.

in the sarne way,but the risk is inainly in shared needles. Hepatitis(C can lead tO chrOnic liver dis_ ´ ease. he virus is spread by contact 、 vith bl()od and blood products― usually via con― tarninated transfusions or shared needles―

Infectious IDiseases Diarrhoea Sirnple things like a change of ν vater,lood or clinlate can ali causc a mlld bout of diarrhoea, but a fe、

rushed toilet

trips、 vith no other syrnptOrns is nOt indica― ^′

products or body (luids; lor cxanlple, and blood transfusiOns, Or contact with

taminated equipment.The symptoms of

I｀

or bodily ifluids.

tive of a maJOr problem.

Dehydration is the main danger with any dialThoca,particularly in children Or the el‐

derly as dehydratiOn can occur quite quickly.

Tetanus This pOtentially fatal discase is 10und、 ′ Oridwide.It is difncult to treat but ∼ is preventable、 vith imnlunisatiOn.

68 Facts fortheヽ ′ isitor― Hea:th

Rables Rabies is a fatal viral infection caused by a bite or scratch by an infected animal.It's rare,but it is bund in Crete. Dogs are noted carriers, as are cats.Any bite, scratch or even lick fronl a warrn― b10oded, furry anirnal should be cleaned immediately and thorollghly. Scrub 、 vith soap and running water,and then clean、 vith an alcohol or iodine solution.lfthere is any

dirty needles― vaccinations, acupuncture, tattooingi and body piercing can be poten‐ tially as dangerous as intravenous drug use. lfyou do need an injection,ask to see the syringe un、vrapped in fiont of you,or take

a needle and syringe pack with you.

Fear ofHlヽ ′infection should never preclude

treatnlent for serious inedical conditions.

possibility that the aninlal is infected rned‐

insecrt‐ Borne

ical help shOuld be sought iinmediately to prcvent the onset of synlptonls and death.

Typhus Tick typhus is a problein iom

Even if thc aninlal is not rabid, all bites shOuld be treated seriously as they can be―

larly areas where animals congregtte.Ty― phus begins、 vith a fever,chilis,headache

corne infected or can result in tetanus.A ra‐

and nluscle pain,follo、 ved a fe、 v days iater

bies vaccination is no、 v availablc and should be considered if you are in a high

・ by a body rash. 「 herc is often a large painう ul sore at the site of the bite and

risk category― eg if you intend to explore

nearby lynlph nodes are swollen and

CaVeS(bat biteS Can be dangerOuS), WOrk

painful.´ 「 here is no vaccine available.´ r'he

with aniinals,or travel so far offthe beaten

lDiseases

April to September in rural areas,particu―

best protection is to check your skin care‐

track that medical help is nlore than two days away.

fully a」 R:er、 valking

in danger areas such as

Sexuaily.Transmitted E)iseases Sexual contact with an infected sexual partner

should consider having their boots and

long grass and scrub.A strong insect repel‐

lent can help, and walkcrs in tick areas ith benzyl benzoate trousers in,pregnated.、 ′

the only 1009′ 6 preventative,using condorns

and dibutylphthalate.(See the CutS,BiteS ing lor information &Stings section follo、′

is also effective.(〕 onorrhoea, herpes and

abOut tiCkS.)

spreads these diseases.VVhile abstinence is

syphilis are anlong these diseases; sorcs, blisters or rashes around the genitals,dis‐ charges or pain when urinating are cornrnon

symptoms.In some STDs,such as wart virus or chlamydia,symptoms may be less marked or not observed at all in wornen. Syphilis syrnptorns eventually disappear cornpletely but the disease continues and can cause severe problerns in later years. ・rhe treatrnent OfgOnOrrhOea and syphilis is with antiblotics.

´ 「 here are numerous other sexually trans‐

Lyme Disease Lyme discase is a tick‐ transrnltted infectlon which nlay be ac‐ quired throughout Europe. ・ he illness I｀

usually begins with a spreading rash at thc site ofthe bite and is acconlpanied by fever,

headache,extremeね tigue,aching joints and nluscles and mild neck stif〕 6ness.If un―

treated, these synlptorns usually resolve

over several wecks but over subsequent wecks or nlonths disorders of the nervous

system,heart and joints may develop.The

rnitted diseases,for most of、 vhich effective treatrnent is available. But there is no curc for herpes and currently no cure for AII])S.

response to treatnlent is best early in the lll‐

HIV′ AIDS Intction with the human im― munodenciency virus(HIv)may lead to ac_

Cuts,日 ites 8L Stings

quired

iinmune

deiciency

syndroine

(AIDS),which is aね tal disease.Any expo― sure to bl。

。d,bl。 。d products or body.nuids

may putthe individual at risk.・ 「 he disease is

onen transnlitted through sexual contact or

・

ness. 「 hc longer the delay, the longer the recovery period.

Skin punctures can easily beconle infected in hot clirnates and rllay be difficult to heal.

´ reat any cut 、 vith an antiseptic such as povidone‐ lodinc. Where possible avoid vhich can keep bandages and iBand‐ Aids, 、 r｀

wounds、 vet.

Facts for the Visitor_Heaith 69

Although there are a lot of bees and

a suggcstion to ind anOther hotel.Bedbugs

wasps in Crete, their stings are usually

leave itchy bites in ncat rows.Calanline 10_

painful rather than dangerous.Calamine lo‐ tion or sting reliefspray will give reliefand ice packs will reduce the pain and swelling.

tion or sting relief spray inay help.

Snakes AIways、 vear boots,sOcks and 10ng

All lice cause itching and disconlfort. T'hey nlake thernselvcs at horne in yOur hair, yOur cIOthing Or in your pubic hain ｀ x4ou catch lice thrOugh direct contact with

trousers when walking thrOugh under‐

infected ipeOple Or by sharing cornbs,cloth―

grOWth Where Snakcs may bc present.Don't put your hands into h01es and crevices,and

nlent、vill ki!l the lice and infected clothing

be careful、 vhen cOllecting ifirewOOd.

should then be washed in very hot、 vater.

ing and the like.Powder or shampoO treat‐

Snake bites do not cause instantaneous

Leeches&Ticks Leechcs inay be prescnt

death and antivenenes are usually available. Iく

in danlp areas; they attach thernselves to

eep the victinl caim and still,wrap the bit―

Ou would for a sprained ankle,and attach a splint tO imnlobilise it. ´ hen seek rnedical help,ifpossible with the dead snake for identincation.I)。 n,t attempt to catch the snake ifthere is even a renlote ´ possibility Of being bitten again. ourni_ 「 ten linlb tightly,as)′

I｀

quets and sucking Out the pOison are nOw comprehensively discredited.

yOur skin to suck yOur blood. 「´rekkers O■ en getthem On theirlegs orin their boOts.

Salt or a lighted cigarete cnd

、 vill nlake

themね 1l oI Do not pullthem ot as the bite is then mOre likely to becorne infected.

An insect repellent nlay keep thenl away. You should al、 vays check your body if yOu

have been walking through a pOtentially tick― infested

Jelly Fish,Sea lurchins&vveever Fish

area as ticks can cause skin in_

fections and other n10re serious diseases.

VVatch out for sea urchins around rocky beaches; ifiyou get sOrne Of their needles enlbedded in yOur skin,01ive Oil、 ′ ill help tO loosen thein.If they are not ren10ved they

will becOme intcted.Be walγ

also ofje‖

y

Sheepdogs These dogs are trained tO guard sheep, and are O■ en underfed and sornetiines ill‐ treated by their owners.They are alinost always`all bark and no bite',but if yOu are gOing tO trek into remote areas,

■sh,particularly during the rnonths Of Sep― tember and October.Although they are not

yOu ShOuld COnSider haVing rabieS inieC‐

lethal in Crete,their stings can be painful.

tions(sce Rabies sectiOn earlier in the chap‐

E)ousing in vinegar will deactivate any

ter).Yiou are mOSt likely to encounter these

stingers、 vhich have nOt`■ red'.Calanline

dogs in the mountainOus regions of Crete. VVandering thrOugh a iflock of sheep over 、′ hich one Ofthesc dogs is watching is ask― ∼

lotion, antihistamines and analgesics may reduce the reactiOn and relieve the pain. Much nlore painful than either of these, but thankう ully much rarer, is an encOunter with the weever ish.It buries itself in the sand of the tidal zOne with only its sipines prOtruding,and i」 eCtS a pain■ l and pow‐

ing fOr trOuble.

Women's Health ′ Antibiotic use,synthetic underヽ ム ear,s、 veat― ing and contraceptive pills can lead tO fun_

erlul toxin iftrodden On.Soaking yOur f00t

gal vaginal infections, especially

in Very hOt Water(WhiCh breakS doWn the pOiSOn)ShOuld S01Ve the problem.In the

traVelling in hot climates.Fungal infections are characterised by a rash, itch and dis― charge and can be treated、 vith a vinegar Or lemOn‐ juiCe douche,or with yogu■ .Nys‐ tatin,rnicOnazole or clotrirnazole pessaries

、 vorst instance,it can cause pernlanentiocal paralysis.

Bedbugs&Lice iBedbugs live in variOus places, but particularly in dirty rnattresses

and bedding.Spots Of bloOd on bedclothes or on the wall arOund the bed can be read as

、 vhen

or vaginal cream are the usual treatment. ヽ4aintaining goOd personal hygiene and 、 vearing loose‐ 16tting c10thes and cotton un― ′ der、 、 ear rnay help prevent these infectiOns.

70 Facts for the Visitor―

VVomen Travellers

Sexually transnlitted discases are a nl■

,Or

snlooth― talking guys、 vho aren't in the least

cause of vaginal problerns. Syrnptorns in―

bashful abOut sidling up to foreign wornen

clude a snlelly discharge, painful inter― cOurse and sOrnetiines a burning sensation 、 vhen urinating. ヽ4edical attention should

they are a hassle rather than a threat.

be sought and sexual partners inust also be treated.For morc details see the scction on Sexually Translnittcd l)iseases carlier.Be‐ sides abstinence,the best thing is to practise

safcr sex using condorns.

in the street.They can be very persistent,but The nl句 ority of Greek inen treat loreign

wOmen with respcct,and are genuincly hclpnul.

GAY&LESBIAN TRAVELLERS In a cOuntry、 vhere the church still plays a

prorninent role in shaping society's vicws

Hospital Treatrnent Citizens of lEU countries are covered lor 、 vithin frcc treatnlcnt in public hospitals crete on presentation of an Elll lorm.In― quire at your national health service or travel agcnt in advance. Enlcrgency treat― ment is lrec to ali nationalities in public 166. hOspitals. In an crncrgency, dia1 1●

Pharrnacies can dispense:nedicines which are avallablc only on prescription in most Europcan countrics, so you can consult a pharmacist lor minor aiiments. All this sounds ine,but although llled― icaltraining is of a high standard in Greece, the health service is badly undernunded and one ofthe、 vorst in Europe.

1-Iospitals are overcrowded, hygiene is

On issues such as sexuality,it should corne as no surprise that honlosexuality is gener― ally nrowned upon.whilc there is n()legis‐ lation against honloscxual activity, it pays to be discreet and to avoid public displays of togetherncss.

Although other islands havc a thriving gay sccnc,(3rete docs not. Since honlo―

sexuality is generally frowned upon and Crete has never been rnarketed as a gay dcs―

tinat10n to package tourists there ls no Ove■ ly gay nightlife. 1｀

hcre are a number of venues in iraklio

that are gay― fricndly although not exclu‐

sively gay. Relaxed Paleohora is gay―

lriendly and nlost nude beaches are ′ 、 へ elconling to gays.

nOt al、vays、 vhat it should be and relatives

arc expected to bring in food lor the patient

―、 vhich could be a problenl for a tolirist. Conditions and treatrnent are better in pri‐ vate hOspitals,、 vhich arc expensive.All this rncans that a good hcalth insurancc policy is essential.

WOMEN TRAVILLERS

′ ο′α′ αεパ 加 ″α′ Informa"on The S′ α″′ `″ ′ι,published by Bruno Gmunder Gα ッ G′ ′ (lBerlin),iS Widely regarded aS the leading

authority on the gay travel scene. The

ealth ofinformation 1998/99 edition has aヽ ′ ∼ On gay venucs around the(]reek lslands. ´

rhere's also stacks OfinfOrnlation on the οッ at www.geocitics.com/ internet.Rο zル イ

vonlen travcl alone in Crcte. 1｀ he ヽ4any 、 lo、 v,and solo

ヽ′ estH01lywOOd/2225/index.html,is a good

crirne rate renlains relativel)′

place to start. It has pages on travel info,

travel is prObably safer than in nlost Euro―

pean countries.This does not mean that you

gay health, the gay press, organisations, events and legal issues― and links to lots

should be lulled into complacency: bag

nlore sites.

snatching and rapes do occur,although vlo‐ lent offiences are rare. volllen The biggest nuisance to loreign 、 travelling alone are the guys the(1〕 recks .The word ineans have nicknamedた α″αた′

(:〕

ayscape has a usenul site with iots Of

、 v.gayscape.corn. links at、 v、′ ´

`fishing trident'and refers to the kanlaki's oreign favOurite pasti:nc, `■ shing' lor う

C)rganisations 「 he main gay rights Organisation in Greece is the Elladas Omo■ lo■ lon KOmmunitas(● 01-3410755, ねx8836942,email [email protected]),upstairs

本 、 ′ orncn.You'1l find thern everywhere thcrc

at Apostolou Pavlou 31 in the Athens sub‐

are lotS oftOuriStSi yOung(10r the rnOSt part),

urb of Thisio.

Fadts for the Visitor― Disabled Trave‖ ers 71

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

Mobility is an issue for parents、 4th very

If mObility is a problem,visiting Crete pre‐ sents solme scrious challcnges.Thc hard fact

small children.stroners(pushchairs)aren't much use in Crctc unlcss yOu're gOing tO

is that mOst hOtels,お rries,museums and

spend all your time in one ofthe tw n誼 spots.They are hopeless on rough stOne

anCient sites are nOt、 vheelchair accessiblc.

If yOu are determined,then take heart in

paths and up steps,and a curse、 vhen getting

the kno、 vledge that disabled people do go to

on/offbuses and ferries.Backpacks Or frOnt

Crete for holidays.But the trip needs care― lul planning,sO get as nluch infornlation as

pOuches are best. Children under fOur travel 10r iee On fer‐ ries and buses.・「 hey pay half fare up tO the

you can before lyou go.´ 「 he British― based

Royal Association 10r I)isability and

Rehabilitation(RADAR)publishes a usenul guide caned〃 。′ zαッs&ル αッι′ИらЮα´ И G″ ′ グο.力 rDお αb′ ′グPι ο ″た,which gives a ′Of facilitics availablc tO dis― good ovcrvic、 、 abled traveners in Europe.Contact RAI)AR (●

' 020-7250 3222, fax 020-7250 0212,

age of10(trries)and 12(buses).Fullね re applies otherwise ()n donlestic nights, you'1l pay 10%ofthe fare tO have a child under t、vo sitting On yOur knec Iく ids agcd two to 12 pay half fare.

USEFUL ORCANISAT10NS

Cmail radar@rada■ org.uk), at 12 City

ELPA(奮 01-7791615),the Greek autom。 ―

Forum,250 City Road,London EClV 8AR

bile club,has its headqua:1:ers on the ground

´

floor of Athens 「 o、 ver, Messogion 2‐

SEN10R TRAVELLERS

4,

Athens i15 27.ELPA offiers reciprocal ser―

carrying EL' pensioners can ciaim a range Ofbenents such as reduced admission charges at nluseurns and ancient sitcs and

Vices to rnenlbers Of natiOnal autonlobile

discounts On trains.

dial■

TRAVEL WiTH CHlLID)REN

DANGERS&ANNOYANCES

C)ard―

Crete is a safe and relatively easy place to travel with children. lt's especially easy if you're staying by the beach Or at a resoll: hotel.lf you're travelling arOund,thc inain

associations on productiOn of a valid inern_ bership card.lf〕 /Our vehicle breaks down,

'104.

The仕

Criine,especially theft,is Iowin Crete,but

problem is a shortage Ofdecent playgrounds

unfortunately it is On the increase. Iく eep track of yOur valuables On public transpo■ and in markets.I)。 nOt leave luggage unat―

and recreatiOnal facilities. I:)on't be afiaid to take children tO ancient

tended in cars.The vast maJOrity of thets ,om tOurists are still cOmnl最 ed by other

sites. Many parents are surprised b)′

how

nluch their children enJOy thenl. ヽア oung inlaginations go intO Overdrive 、 vhen let loose sOnlewhere like the `labyrinth' at Kinossos. I=Iotels and restaurants are usually very acconlmodating、vhen it cOrnes t0 1neeting

the necds Of children, althOugh highchairs are a rarity outside resOrts.´ 「 he service in restaurants is nornlally― very quick,which is

great when yOu've got hungry children on your hands. Fresh rnilk is readily available in large to、 ′ ns and tourist areas,but hard to ifind in ∼ slllali villages. Superinarkcts are the best place to look. Fornlula is available cvery_

′ 、 、 here,as is cOndensed and heat‐

treated inilk.

tourists;the biggest danger Oftheft is prOb‐ ably in dorinitOry rOOrns in hosteis and at

camp sites.SO make sure yOu do notleave valuables unattended in such places.If you are staying in a hotel roorn, and the win―

′ do、 、 s

and door dO nOt10ck securely,ask for

your valuables to be locked in the hotel safe ―hotel prOprietOrs are happy to do this.

LECAL MArrERS

Consurner Advlce The Tourist Assistance PrOgramme exists tO help people l″ hO are having trouble、 ′ ith any tourislm.related service. Free legal ad―

vice is available in English, French and

Gcrinan'om July l to Septembcr 30.The main ofice(● 08卜 240666)in Crete is in

72 Facts for the Visitor―

Business Hours

Iraklio at Milatou l and Agiou´ itou. open 10 anlto 2 prn Monday to Friday. I｀

It's

(()●

E)rugs 〈rcck drug iaws are thc strictest in lEuropc. [〕

(1〕

reek courts rllake nO distinctiOn betヽ veen

possess10n and pushing.Possesslon ofeven a small amount of marijuana is likely tO land yOu iniail.

hodox)Easter Sunday

Spring Festiva1/LabOur I)ay Feast ofthe Assun,ption

Ohi Day Christmas Day St Stephen'sI)ay

25 March MarcVApr‖ MarcVApr‖ l May 15 August 28 0ctober

25 Dccember 26 Dccember

SPEC:AL IVINTS

BuSIN■ SS H《)URS 13anks arc open 8 arn to 2 prn Monday to ´ 「 hursday, and 8 anl to l.30 pnl Friday. Sorne banks in large to、 vns and cities Open

between 3.30 and 6.30 pm in the aflienloon and on Saturday morning. Post of16ces are open 7.30 arn to 2 prn Monday to Friday」 n the malor c es they stay open unti1 8 pnl,and open lrorn 7.30 am to 2 pFn On Saturday.

The opcning hours of OTE ofnces(for iOng diStanCe and OVerSeaS telephOne CaliS)

vary according to the size of the tOwn. In snlaller towns thcy are usually open 7.30 am to 3 pm daily;■ om 6 am untilll pm in larger towns;and 24 hours in majOr cities like Athens and´ hessaloniki. In surnrnet shops are open 8 ain to l_30 I｀

pm and 5.30 to 8.30 pm Tuesday,Thursday and Friday,and 8 am to 2.30 pm Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.´ rhey open 30 minutes later in winte■ These times are not al、

Grcck lndependence Day Good Friday

vays strictly adhered to. Many shops in

The(]reek year is a succession Of festivals and events, some of、 vhich are religious,

sorne cultural,othcrs an excuse for a goOd knees‐ up, and sOrne a cOmbinatiOn Of all three.´ he following is by no incans an ex‐ I・

haustive list,but it covers the nlost inlpOr―

tant events, both national and regional. If you're in the right place at the right ti:ne, you'1l certainly be invited tojoin the revelry.

January Feast ofAgios Vasilios(St Basil) Thc ycar kicks offwith this tstiva1 0n l Jan_

uary.A church ccrcmony is fo‖ owed by thc exchanging of gi■ s, singing, dancing and tasting;thc New Year pic″ αs,′ ορ″′ ″ is sliccd and thc pcrson who gets the slicc cOn― taining a coin、 ′ ili supposcdly have a lucky year.

EPiphany(the lBlessing of the Waters) On 6 January,Christ's baptism by St JOhn is

cclebratcd throughout Grcccc.Seas,lakes and rivcrs are blessed and crosscs irrinlcrsed in

them.

March

tourist resorts are open seven days a weck.

February―

P′ ″ ′ ο″ α ′′

Shrove Monday(Cieanヽ londay)

(Street kiOSkS)are Open iOm

early morning until late at night.´ hey sell 「 everything nronl bus tickcts and cigarettes to hard‐

core pornography.

()pening tinles of rnuseuins and archaeo‐ logical sitcs vary, but nlost are cIosed On

Onthe Monday beibre Ashヽ 4edncsday(the■

rst

day ofLcnt),people take to thc hilis throughout Greece tO havc picnics and ny kitcs.

March lndependence l)ay

´｀ 【hc annivcrsary of the hoisting Of thc(:〕 rcck nag by Bishop Germanos at Moni Agi¨ Lavrぉ is cclcbrated on 25 ヽlarch v′ ith paradcs and

ヽ4onday.

PUBL:CH(D)L:DAIYS All banks and shops and nlost museurns and ancient sites close public holidays. Greek national public holidays observed in Crete

dancing.(〕 ermanos' act of revolt markcd the

start ofthc War oflndependencc.Indcpcndcnce I])ay coincides、 ′ ith thc Fcast ofthc Annuncia‐ tion,so it is also a rcligious fcstival

are:

MIarch― April

Ncw Ycar's Day Epiphany

6 January

Easter is taken much inOrc scriOusly than any

First Sunday in lLcnt

February

Other rCligiOuS hO‖ day・ On Palnl Sunday(the

l January

Easter

Facts for the Visitor― Special Events 73

Sunday beforc()“ hodox Easter),"′ orshippers rctunl■ om church serviccs with a cross woven of palm and myrtlc. Thc Monda)′ CVCning servicc is the `IBride― groOnl Scrvicc' bccausc the priest carrics an icon of(〕 hrist, `the bridegrOOm'thrOugh the church.

´ uesday is dcdicated to Mary Magdalcnc and uム cdnesday is thc`Day ofAtoneincnt'. I｀

On Thursday worshippers moum br Christin the evening servicc an d on Good Friday,the syinbolic body of Christ is carried thrOugh the strects in a nineral procession.

Thc climax of the week is the Saturday evening scrvlcc. At inidnight all lights in the churches are ex.

tinguishcd until thc pricst appcars with a js′ ο lighted candlc and the cry (]力 ″ s/4′ as′ ブ ′ `Christ has arisen'.

orshipper's candle and peoplc nlakc thcir、 vay homc,t:う ′ ing to keep thc can‐ 1‐

le lights each v′

dle lit.Fireworks and gunshots herald the start of feasting that lasts through Easter Sunday.

´

he cerenlony ofthc lighting Of candlcs is thc most signincant mlomcnt in the()rthodox ycaL I｀

for it symboliscs thc Resurrection. Its poignancy and beauty arc spclibinding. If you arc in Crete at Eastcr you should en‐ deavour to attcnd this cercmOn工 Which ends with ircworks and a candie― lit prOccssiOn through thc strccts

June Navyヽ Veek Navy ヽ Vё ek

is celebrated in even― nunibcrcd ycars during thc last、veck in June and cOrn_ memorates Crctc's relationship with thc sca.In

Cretc's harbour citics thcre are inusic and dancing cvents on land and swinlming and sailing cOrnpctitiOns On thc、 vatcr.

Feast of St John the lBaptist ′ 「 his 13ast day on 24 June is widely celcbrated. VVreaths nladc on May I)ay arc kept until this day,、 vhcn thcy arc burncd on bonfires.

July Feast of Agia Marina(St Marina) his fbast day is cclebratcd on 17 July in rnany pans Of crctc,and is a particularly iinp。 ■ant 1｀

evcnt in Agia Marina outside of Hania.

Feast of Prontis llias This fbast day is cclcbratcd on 20 July at hill―

top churchcs and monasterles dedicated tO thc prophet,especially in the(〕 yclades

Wine Festival Theヽ Vine Festival of Rethymno is hcld in the nlunicipal park with 、 vinc tastings and iocal

August Assurnption I)ay Greeks celebratc Assumption Day(15 Au―

The Lentcn fastcnds on Easter Sunday with thc

guSt)Withね mily rCuniOnS.The WhOle pOpu―

cracking of red― d)′ cd iEaster eggs and an out― d00r feaSt Of rOast lanib fblloヽ ved bン ' Grcck

lation is on the nlove either side Of the day, so it's a gOOd timc tO avOid public transpOrt.

dancing.

Feast ofAgios Georgos(St Ceorge) Thc fcast day oFSt George,Crctc's patron saint and patron saint of shcphcrds,takes place on

23 April or thc Tucsday fOl10wing Eastcr (WhiCheVCr COmCS irSt). The most claboratc cclcbration is in Asi Gonias

v/hcrc thousands of goats and shccp arc gath― crcd at thc to、 vn church 6or shcaring,rnilking and blcssing. Fresh rnilk acconlpanies the ensuing ncast.

MIay Day rst day of May thcrc is a nlass exodus

iom towns to thc cOuntry. E)uring picnics,、 vildflo、 vers arc gathcrcd and niade into、 vreaths tO dccOrate hOuscs.

Battle of Crete During thc last wcck of MaX the tO"η Of Hania commcmorates thc Battlc of Crete in athlctic

compctitions, folk dancing and ccrcmOnial cvcnts

I｀

hc island of・ inos gcts particularly busy bc― I｀

causc ofits miracle― v′ orking icon ofI)anagia Evangelistria.It becomcs a placc Of pilgrirn― age for thousands,、 vho conte to be blessed, healed or baptiscd,orjust ior the excitement of being thcrc. ヽ4any are unable to find ho― tels and slccp out on the streets

Paleohora■ 〔usic

IFestival

Palcohoraヽ 4usic lFestival is devoted to nlusic. Thc irst ten days of August arc■ llcd with song contests and concerts stagcd cvery night

Cuitural Festival

May C)n thc l「

´

ln Ano Viannos, therc's a thrcc― day C〕 ultural Fcstival at thc beginning OfAugust with con― ccns,p!ays and an cxhibits.

ヽVine Festival ln thc toヽ vn

ofArhancs,August i5 is thc con―

clusion ofa nve‐ day Winc Fcstival celebrating thcir cxcc!lcnt iocal、 vine.

Sultana Festival Sitia cclebratcs thcir superior sultana raisins with wine,nlusic and dancing in a Suitana Fes― tival held thc last、

veek Ofthe mOnth

74 Facts for the Visitor―

Activities

of renlenibrancc scrviccs, mi!itary paradcs, folk dancing and fbasting

Potato Festival Lassithi produccs supcrior potatocs,a prod― uct"hich is ccicbrated in the lPotato lFestival

hcld for threc days at the cnd of August in

Iヽ

Iovenlber Onc ofthc:γ lost inlpo● ant local holidays cclc―

Tzermiado Traditional Cretan lⅣ edding

brated in Crctc is thc annivcrsary ofthc cxplo―

slon at Monl′ ヽrkadiou.Froin Novcnlbcr 7 to 9,this tragic cvcnt is coinmenloratcd atヽ 4oni

ln late August Kritsa stagcs a trad onal Crc― tan、 vedding replcte with songs,dancing and

traditional iood 6or an adrnission of about 3000 dr

Arkadiou.

I)ecember (〕

Septenlber

1｀

hristnlas I)ay Although not as iinportant as Eastct Christmas is still celcbratcd、 vith rcligious scrviccs and feasting No、 vadays nluch`wcstcrn'influcncc

Genesis tis Panagias (the Virgin'S Birthday) his day is cclcbratcd on 8 Scptcnlbcrthrough―

is apparent,including C)hristmas trccs,dccora― tions and presents.

out Creccc、 vith various rcligious scrviccs and fcasting

Sur‖ner Festivals&

October

Performances

Chestnut Festival The village of Elos stages a chestnut iestival on the third Sunday ofthc nlonth v′

hcn cvery―

onc is offcred roastcd chcstnuts, chcstnut swects and rs,た ο グ,α Ohi(No)Day “ .

There arc cu!tural festivals throughout Crete in summe■ The most important are the annual iRenaissancc Festival in Rethymmo that features dance,drama and ilms as、 vell as an exhibitions;thc Krvia

ヽ4etaxas'refusal to a1lo、 v Mussolini's troops nrcc passagc through crete during w、 vII is

Fcstival in lerapetra includes various nlusi― cal,theatrical and artistic presentations_

cornnlenlorated on 28(:)ctober、 vith a nunlber

Sitia's Kornaria Festival that presents nlusic, theatre, art exhibits, races and a

beach volleyball competition; Iraklio's

Summer A■ s Festival that attracts inter― national artists as wcll as local singers and dancers to perfornl in the lく azantzakis()pen Air・ 「 heatre,and the Lato Fcstival in Agios likolaos that features traditional and rllod‐

lヽ

ern works perforrned by local and inter― national orchestras and dance troupes.

ACTiVITIES Water Sports Parasailing,water‐ skiing,jet skling,pedal

vindsuring are boating, canoeing and 、 aVailable On lnOStく)f thC rllaJOr bCaChCS. (I)n the north coast, you'11 1lnd a、 vater sports centre attachcd to mostluxury hotcls and)′ 〈 )u don't need to stay there to avail yourselfofthe facilitics. Outside lraklio,try the、 vater sports cen‐

tre atthe Grecotel Agapi Beach(● 081-250 Many of Crete's loca:festivals ce!ebrate the day Wine Festiva: in the tovvn of Arhanes celebrates the region's exce::ent wines. harvesting of crops.A five‐

502)in Ammoudara. C)utside Hania in ncarby Platanias, there's Argiris Sca Spolls(●

0821-093493

449). If you're staying in Agios Nikolaos,

Facts for the Visitor―

heacl out to the beach resort of E′

12km north oftown.Thcre'sa"′

lく

)unda,

ater sports

centre at thc Elounda Bay Hotcl(●

0841-

41 502)and the neighbouring Elounda Beach Hotel(● 0841-41412).In Bali, thcre's thcヽ Vatcr Sports Lencris(1●

0834-

0843-61070). The best windsuring is at Kouremenos

0843‐

gorges.

Some of the nlost popular treks,such as the Sanlaria Gorge,are detailed in this book. ´ 「 here are a nunlber ofconlpanies running or― ganised treks.()ne ofthc biggcstis Trekking

Athens 105 57.You'li nnd more inlorm江 lon

beach,the town beach()fl)alekastro,cast of Sitia.Call the Kouremenosヽ ′ atersports

Centre(雷

rcmote villages, across plains and into

Hellas(● 01-3234548,fax 325 1474,email [email protected]),at F‖ eninon 7,

94102)and in Val,thcrc's Val Watcrsports (●

Work 75

0937517444).Windsurf‐

´ ing iS alSO g00d in I)aleOhOra. 「 ry ヽ Vё St‐ ′ ゝind(1● 0823-094681 9777)near thc Pal Beach Hotel.

v、 ¨.trekking.gr.AIso, try The Happy at 、

∼

Walker(雷

083卜 52920),Ъ baz1 56,

Rethymno,or Trekking Plan(■ '0821-60 861)in Agia Marinajust outsidc Hania

WORK Perntits

Snorke‖ ing&Diving snorkelling and diving a pleasurc. Some

EU nationals don't nced a、 vork pernlit,but they need a residency pernlit ifthey intend to stay longer than three nlonths.Nationals

of the bcst snorkelling is around the

of other countries are supposcd to have a

sunken city of()lous in EIounda.

v′ ork

The warm,clear waters of Crete make

In the shallo、 v watcr iyou can scc the foundations of ancient houses.´ 「 here are a nunlbcr Of diving centres that a1loぃ ′you to get acquainted、 ith diving,becorlle a certi― ∼ ■ed diver or explore the under、 vater、 von―

ders if you're already certilled. lJnder

peri■

lit.

Bar&Hostei VVork

´ 「 he best bar and hotel jobs can pay quitc ′ 、 vell,so、 、 ell that they are usually taken by young Greeks lronl the mainiand.Language training has inlproved dranlatically in recent

reek lav′, you nlust dive as pan of a li―

years cliininating the need for nlultilingual

censed diving opcration and you are forbid― den to disturb any antiquities you inay corne

loreign、 vorkers.Resorts such as Hersonisos

([〕

acrOss.In Hania,you have a chOice of BIue Adventures Diving(雷 0821‐ 40 608), I)askalogianni 69,or Creta'sI)iving(3entre

93616),Papanikoli 6,Nea Hora.In Bali,theに 's Hippocampos(● 0834‐ 94193)

(● 0821‐

near the port.In Agios Nikolaos,there'sa diving centre af■ liated 、ith thc aquariurn ∼

and a diving centre on thc beach of thc Coral Hotel(奮 0841-82546).In Rethyinno, there's The Paradisc Dive Ccntre(● 083153258),EI Venizelou 76.It's wise to can at

Trekking :rete is a veritable paradise lor trekkers―

Courler As a package tour destination par excel― lence lCrete provides excellent opportun― ities lor those interested in、 vorking as a courier lor a package tour company.Pack― age tour colmpanics based in Britain begin looking for personnel around February to ■1l the summer scason needs. ｀Ou need to havc a good presentation Y′

and outgoing personality and, usually, ・ sorne coilege education. 「 he pay is poor but you can nlake tips and sonle comp―

least a day in advance.

(二

and Malia that cater to lBritish travellers are the best bet for Brits looking for bar、 vork.

at

the righttimc Ofthe year.´rrekking is no fun

at all in June, July and August, 、hen the ∼

tenlperatures are constantly up around 40° C. Spring(April‐ May)is the pertct time.

´ 「 here are dozens of interesting hikes

throughout(1〕 rete that will take you through

anies a1lo、 v couriers to earn a percentagc

of the excursions thcy sell.

Sur‖ner Harvest Seasonal harvest、 vork seerlls to be nぅ onopo‐

Ised by migrant workers■ om Albania,and is n。

1。

nger a viable option lor traveners.

76 FaCtS for the Visitor―

Accom『 :lodation

lVo:unteer Work ・ 「 he sea・rurtle Protection society of(〕 (雪 /f猟 01‐

rete

5231342,eman stps@compunnk

.gr),at Solomou 57,Athens 104 32,uses

charge nroin 1200 dr to 1500 dr per aduit and 600 drto 800 dr for children aged 10ur to 12.・ here's no charge fOr children aged 「

volunteers fOr their n10nitoring progranls

under four.1lent sites cost fiorl1 900 dr per night for snlall tents,and fronl 1200 dr per

on Crete.

night fOr iarge tents. Caravan sites startl at

around 2500 dr.

Other Work

Between May and inid‐ Septeinber it is

There are O■ enjobs advenised in the classi_ neds ofthe English‐ languagc ne、 ′ spapers,Or you can place an advertiseinent yoursel■ IEU

、 varrn enough tO sleep out under the stars, although you、 ′ ili still need a lightweight sleeping bag to counter the prc― dawn chill.

natiOnals Can also rnake use of the()AEI)

It's a good idea to havc a foarn pad tO lie On

(Organismos Apasholiseos Ergatikou Dy‐ namikou),thc Greek National Employment

and a waterproOf cOver fOr yOur sleeping

SeⅣ iCe,in their SeaК

hお r

a10b.

ACCOMMODAT:ON ´

here is a range of accOrnn10dation avail― able in Crete to suit every taste and pOcket. All places to stay are su● ect to strict pricc controls set by the tourist police.By law,a

bag.

Freelance(wild)camping is incgal,but the law is llot always strictly enforced. It's

、 vise to ask around before canlping wild.

I｀

notice nlust be displayed in every rOOrn, 、 vhich states the category of the rooln and the price charged in cach season. Accornmodation o、 vners nlay add a 10シ 6

surcharge for a stay of less than three

Hostels There

are youth

hosteis

in

iraklio,

Rethymno,Sitia and Plakias that are run by the Creek Youth Hoste1 0rganisation(● 01‐

751 9530, fax 751 0616, enlail y― hos teis@otenetgr),at Damareos 75,116 33 in Athens.

nights,but this is not nlandatory.A nlanda―

Iostel rates vary fronl 1600 drto 2000 dr and you don't have to be a rnenlber to stay

tory charge of 20%is ievied ifan extra bcd

in any ofthem.

1‐

is put into a roorn.

E)uring July and August,accornnlodation owners wili charge the maximum price,but in spring and autulΥ in,prices、 ″ill drop by up to 20シ 6,and perhaps by even inOre in win_ ter.「 Fhese

are the times to bring your bar―

gaining skills into action. Rip― offis rarel)′ OCCuら but if you suspect you have been exploited by an accornnloda― tiOn O、vner,repOrt it tO either the tourist po―

lice or regular police and they、 vill act s、 ′ iftly.

Dolmlatia I)ornatia are the(]reck equivalent Of the British bed and breakfast,rninus the break_

fast.()nce upon a time dOrnatia cOnlprised litle more than sparc roolns in the family honle which could bc rented out tO trav― ellers in surnrner; nO、 vadays, nlany are purpose― built appendages tO the fanllly housc. Solne cOrne cOnlplete 、 vith fully

Camping

equipped kitchens. Standards of cleanliness are generally high.「 Fhe decor runs the gainut florn cool grey nlarble n。 。rs,c。 。rdinatcd pine furni_

and very fe、 v are open outside the high sea―

ture, pretty lace curtains and tasteful pic― tures on the、 alis,to so much kitsch you are ∼ ainlost afraid to nlove in case you break an

´ 「 here are only about a dozen or sO camping grounds in Crete. 10st are privately run

son (April-October).Thc Panhellenic /fax Ol‐ 3621560),

Camping Association(雪

ornament.

at Solonos 102,Athens 106 80,publishes an

E)onlatia renlain a popular OptiOn for budget travellers.They are classined A,B or C.Expectto pay from 4000 drto 9000 dr for a single,and 6000 drto 15,000 dr for a ス double, depending On the class, 、 /hether

annual bOOklet listing ali the carnp sites and their facilities.

Camping nees are highestttom 15 June to

the end of August.Most cainping grounds

Facts for the Visitor―

bathroorns arc shared or private,the season and ho、 v long lyOu plan to stay.

Many donlatia arc opcn only between

Food 77

available for either long or short‐ terrn rental. Prices vary considerably according to the amenities officred.

April and()ctober.

Traditional Settlernents

Hote:s I―

l｀

Iotels in (1〕

rete are divided into six cate―

gorics:deluxc,A,B,C,D and E.Hotels are categorised according to the size of the roorn,、 vhether or not they have a bar,and the ratio of bathroorns to beds,rather than

standards of cleanliness, cornfort of tlle beds and friendliness of staff― all elernents

which may be of greater relevance to gucsts.

As onc 、 vould cxpect, dcluxe, A‐ and class hotels have many arnenities,private bathroorns and constant hot、 vater. They usually, but not al、 vays, have air― BI‐

raditional scttlenlents are old buildings of

architectural rnerit that have been reno― vated and converted into tourist accornmo‐ datiOn.´ rhe best in crete are atヽ /lan10s and

・ hey're not cheap but traditional ヽ41lia. 「

features such as flreplaces and stonc kitchens provide an unusual and appcaling iodging experience.

Mountain Refuges Mountain refuges are not plentinul on Crctc but there are sorne lodges scattered in the

Lefka(Dri,

lt Psiloritis and Kallergi.

F00D

conditioning.Even in expensive hotels the air― conditioning may only function partl of the day.()ften it is turned off at night. ― class hoteis have a snack bar,roorns have ([〕

that's because lllany travcllers have cxperi―

privatc bathroorns,but hot、

atcr may only ∼ be available at certain times of the day.

enccd(3reek cooking only in tourist rcsorts.

class hotels inay or nlay not have snack bars,■lost roorns wili share bathroorns,but there inay be sorne,ぃ ′ ith private bathroorns,

on sunl■ ler days, shouted to her husband `(〕 onlc and eat yourlunch before it gets hot'

and they may have solar heated water,

vas invariably Until recently, food 、 scrvcd lukewarm― which is how Grecks

D)―

、hich ineans hot、vater is not guaranteed. ∼ E‐ class

hotels do not have a snack bar,bath―

roorns are shared and you nlay have to pay extra for hOt water‐ if it exists at all. Priccs arc controllcd by the tourist police

and the maxinlunl rate that can be charged

([〕

y a reputation as reek food docs not enり 。

′ へ one of the 、 orld's great cuisines. Maybe

The oldjOke abOutthe Greek woman who,

is based on truth.

prefer it. Most restaurants that cater to tourists have no、 v cottoned on to the fact that fOreigners expect cOoked dishes to be

scrved hot, and iinproved nlethods of Warming mealS(inCluding the dreaded

for a roorn inust be displayed on a board be― hind the d。 。r ofeach r。 。nl.The classinca_

miCrOWaVe)haVe made thiS eaSien if yOur

tion is not o■ en rnuch of a guide to price.

or order grills,、 vhich have to be cooked to

Rates in I)― and E― class hoteis arc generally

order.([〕

connparable、 ′ ith domatia.lYlou can pay any― 、 vhere nrorll 1 0,000 dr to 20,000 dr for a C― class

single in high season and 15,000 dr to 25,000 drう or a double.Prices in B― class range nrorn 15,000 drto 25,000 dr for sin―

gles,and lrorl1 25,000 dr to 35,000 dr lor doubles.A‐ class prices are not nluch higher.

APartments Self contained fanlily apartinents are avail― able in sorne hotels and dOrllatia.´ 「 here are

also a nunlber of purpose‐ built apartrnents,

nleal is not hot,ask that it be served zο

s′

ο ,

reeks are fussy about lresh ingredi― ents,and frozen food is rare.

Cretans eat out regularly, regardless of socioecononlic status.En」 Oying life is para― inount to(3reeks and a large part ofthis en―

joyment comes iom eating and drinking with iiends. By lav/,everう′eating establishment rnust display a 、 vritten rnenu including prices.

Restaurant staff will automatically put bread on yOur table and usually costs be― t、veen 100 dr and 200 dt depending on the restaurant's category.

78 Facts for the Visitor―

Food

VVhere to Eat

Zaharopiasteia A zα 力α″ ο′ αs′θ′ ο (patis_ Serie)SeliS CakeS (bOth traditiOnal and WeStern),ChOCOlateS,biSCuitS,SWeetS,COF lρ

Tavernas .Traditionally, the taverna is a basic eating place、 ′ ith a rOugh‐ and― ready anlbience,although sonle are nlore upnlar_ ket,particularly in Athens,and resorts and big towns.Alltavernas have a inenu,often displayed in the v/indow or On the d00r,

fee,son‐ drinks and,possibly,bottled alc。

_

holic drinks. .They usually have s。 lme seating.

but it's usually not a g00d guide as to

Kafeneia Iく afeneia are oten regarded by

、 vhat's actually available On the day.You'll be told about the daily specials― Or ush‐

vinis■ l in lEurope. 1ハ ′ ith bare light bulbs,

ered into the kitchen tO peer intO the pots

nicOtine‐ stained 、 valis, smOke― laden air,

and point tO 、 vhat yOu 、′ ant. This is not ∼ nlerely a privilege for tourists; Cretans also do it bccause they、 ス /anttO sec the tav‐ erna's version ofthe dishes On Offer.SOrne tavernas don't open unti1 8 prn, and then stay open until the early hOurs. SOrne are ciosed on Sunday.

loreigners as the last bastiOn Of nlale chau‐

rickety wOOden tables and ra■ la chairs,they by rniddle― aged and elderly

are fi‐ equented

Cretan men in cioth caps whO wh‖ e away their time nddling with worry beads,play_ lng cards or backgarnrnOn, Or engaged in heated political discussion. It

、′ as once unheard of for wornen tO ∼

enter a kafeneia but in large cities this situ―

Psistaria´ 「 hese places specialise in spit

roasts and charcoal― grilled food― usually

lanlb,pork or chicken.

Restaurants A restaurant`′

s′

′ α′ ο″′ ο り is

normally nlore sophisticated than a taverna or psistaria with damask tablecIOths,sma■ ly attired 、′ aiters and printed inenus at each

∼

ation is changing. In rural areas,Cretan l″ orncn arc rarely seen inside kafeneia. VVhen a fenlale trav_ ciler enters One, she is invariably treated

courteously and with friendship if she nlanages a fe、 v Greek、vords ofgreeting.If

you feel inhibited about going intO a kaneneio, opt for outsidc seating. You'11

vith an English transiation. Ready‐ table 、 rnade food is usually displayed in a bα ノ ′ 2_

feel less intrusive.

″,α ′ノ ′and there may alsO be a charcoal grill.

coffee but no、 v,nlost also serve so■ i drinks, 1ヽ lescafё and beer.1｀ hey are generally fairly

C)u2eria An ο z′ ″′serves ouz。 .(:〕 rccks be―

cheap,with(3reck coffee costing about 150 dr and Nescaf6 with rnilk 250 dr or less. ヽlost kafeneia are open all day every day, but SOme C10Se during SieSta time(rOughly 合om 3to S pm).

vhen drinking al― cohol so,in traditional establishnlents,yOur `′

lieve it is csscntial tO eat、

drink、 vill conle、 vith a slnall plate Of titbits

or″ ″ιグas(appctiscrs)_perhaps onves,a slice of feta and sOme pickled octopus. (1)uzeria arc becOming trendy and rnany now offcr illenus、 vith bOth appetisers and

Kaneneia originally only served Greek

Meals Breakfast Most Cretans have Greek coffee and perhaps a cake or past:)′ lor breakfast.

Budget hoteis offering breakfast generally

GalaktoPolela A gα ノ αた′ ο ο (litcra‖ y Pο たノ

prOVide it COntinental‐

Style(r01lS Or bread e mOre up‐ markCt hOtCIS SCrVe breakね St buffCtS(WeSt‐

`milk shop')sens daiッ pЮ duce including milk,butter,yogurt,ricc pudding,cOrnf10ur

Withiam,and tCa Or COfte),Wh‖

pudding,custard,eggs,honey and bread.It

ern and COntinenta卜 StyIC).OtherWiSe,

illay also sell horne― made

ice cream-100k

10r the Sign″ αgο ′ ο″ο″′ ノ たο'diSplayed Out―

restaurants and galaktOpoleia serve bread

and usually open from very early in the

with butter,jam or hOney;eggsi and thc budgct travcllers' favOuritc, yOgurt αο ″ ′ クノ りWith hOney.In tOuriSt areaS,many menus“ offer an`English'breakfast-1″ hich

inorning until evening.

ineans bacon and eggs.

sidc. Most have seating and serve coffbe

and tea.・ rhey arc incxpensive nor breakfast

Facts for the Visitor―

Food 79

A Greek Feast Greek dishes are easy to prepare at horne. friends.Recipes serve four peoPle

卜 lere's a simple lunch or dinner to share with

T2at21ki(CuCulmlber and YOgurL Dip)Peel and grate a medium cucumber Add a cup of yoghurt,a tablespoon of olive oil,a pinch of salt,a teaspoon of vinegat a teaspoon offreshly chopped dill and a rninced garlic clove and refrigerate for t、 ″o hours.Ciarnish with an olive and serve with fresh crusty bread or as an accolmpaninlent to vegetables or fried fish.

Soupa Avgc)lemono(Egg and Lemon Soup)Add six tablespoons of uncooked rice to six cups of bolling chicken`fish or beef stock,then cover and sirnrner until the rice is tenden

Beat twO eggs,adding a pinch Of salt and the luice of a large lemon Add the stock to this nllxture slowly,so thatit doesn't curdle,then pour the rnixture into a pot for reheating Stir and ensure it does not boil.

SOut2● ukak:a(SauSageS frOm Snnyrna)ThiS hearty diSh Originated in Srnyrna in the dayS of Greek occupation and has subsequently been adopted by the cooks of‐ 「 hessaloniki Soak twO slices of、 ″hite bread in half a cup of、 ″ater, nlash and add three garlic cloves finely chopped,half a teaspoon of pepper and a dessertspo()n of cumin and form into sma‖ Add 500g(11b)of minced iamb or beef and a beaten egg,mix we‖ sausages Place in an olled roasting pan and bake in a rTledium to hot oven untilthe sausages brown on the base side Turn the sausages a∩ d add 500g(11b)of tonlatoes,a do‖ op of but― or until the tonla― ter and teaspoon of sugar and return to the oven for about 15 minutes― zο υ 々a々 ′ a are brown on the other side.Serve with fried potatoes or toes are soft and the sο υι rice,and salad Halvas tou Fournou(Baked Halva)Here's a delightful desset that is sirnple to rnake.Sift ′ へdd t、 ″o cups half a cup Of f10ur with t、 ″O teaspoOns Of baking powder and a pinch of salt of senlolina and a cup of finely chopped nuts(二

rearnう そof a cup of butter or rnargarine with

a cup ofsugar and add three beaten eggs and grated len￢ on peel Combine the nlixtures well′ then pourinto a greased 25cm (1(〕 inch)square pan.Bake in a nlediunn oven until g()lden. B()il three cups of water with three cups o.f sugaL add four cl()ves and a half stick of cin―

nanllon,then pour overthe rest ofthe dessert Leave it to stand untilthe cinnamon and clove mixture has been absorbed′ then serve、 ″ith or without crearn,warnl or cold lt's filling and keeps for days.

些 些 瞼 凸 些 鰺 凸 聰 凸 鰺 鰺 聰 立 鰺 鰺 立 螢 鰺 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 Lunch′ 「 his

is caten late― bet、 veen i and 3 p:n― and nlay bc either a snack or a corn―

plete meal. The lmain nlcal in a Crctan's day can be

lunch or dinner―

or both. Cretans enJOy

eating and it is quite cornnlon for thern to have tvッ o large meals a day.

DInner Cretans also eat dinner late.Many people don't start to think about food until

vhy sorne restaur― about 9 pn■ , which is 、 ants don't bother to open their doors until after 8 prn.In tourist areas dinner is often served earlier_A full dinner in Crete begins

、ith appetisers and/or soup,lollowed by a ∼ lmain course of either rcady-lnade fo()d, grilled meat,or ish. C)nly very posh restaurants or those pan― ヽ Vestern― style

dering to tourists include dessens On the inenu.

80 Facts for the Visitor―

Food

Another helPing of holta?

(3retans usually eat cakes separately in a galaktopoleio or zaharoplasteio.

An influential study concluded in 1 960,

Greek Speclalities

ater 1 5 years of research,found that Cre―

Snacks Favourite([〕 reek snacks includc

tan rnen had the lovvest rate of heart dis―

pretZel ringS SOld by Street VendOrS, 4)′ γο― α (CheeSe pie),ら ο′gα おα(CuStard‐ ■‖ed ′″′ paStγ ),Sρ α′αたο ρ″rα (SpinaCh piC)and Sa″ ― ′ο″′ ′ S(SandWiCheS).Street VendOrS Sell various nuts and dried seeds such as pulllp_ kin for 200 drto 400 dr a bag.

Me2edeS In a Sirnple taVerna, pOSSibly only three or lour mezedes(appetisers)win be omered_perhaps′ α″α″αsα ′ α′ α(■ sh_roe

Zノ た ノ(yOgurt,CuCumbCr メip),′Zα ′

and garliC

dip), OliVeS and feta.()uZeria and reStau― rants usually offer wider selectiOns.

Mezcdes include ο力′ α′ο″ (octopus),

― α″′ α (Squid),グ ο′ “ ″α″ιS(Stuffed Vine leaVeS),″ ′′ 」 rzα ″ οs_ α′ α′ α (aubergine Or eggplant dip)and αν″ ο″α′ ″α (blaCk― eyed beanS).HOt “ meZedeS inCludeた c′ ιグas(meatballS),ノ asο _ ″α (White hariCOt beanS),g7gα ′′ θS(lima beans),ノοンたαがたα (little sausages),tyrO― pitta,SpanakOpitta,bο ン′ ιた´たノ(tiny meat pie),た ο ′ οわ′ r′?α た (deep‐ 缶ied ZuCChini), 'α ■ied aubergine) and 〃ο′ ′ ″α′α (deep―

gα r」 ′θ S(ShrimpS),たα′ α

sα gα

″αたノ(■ ied checsc).

ease and cancer of all seven cOuntries studied(Finland, USA, Netherlands′ ltaly, Yugosiavia, 」 apan and Kerkyra lsiand in Crete)The extraordinary longevity of Cre― tan irlen is a puzzle l)octors noted that the traditlonal Cretan diet was high in frults, vegetables′

beans,vvhole grains and ollve

oil― the so― ca‖ ed i`Mediterranean diet".

Anotherimpottant factor may be the w‖ d greens that Cretans were accustorγ led tO gathering in the hilis.Used ln pies,salads,

or力 ο″ Far the greens may have protective properties that are not yet fully under― stood Unfortunately the Cretan beans and greens diet is changing as the island has prospered and urbanised.As Cretans have included more rrleat and cheese in their diets and no longer 、 へ ′ ork(。 ut)in the flelds, heart disease and cancer rates are rlsing.Clretans have nc,t completely aban―

doned their old ways hovvever Anyone who wants to clean up their coronaries will

find plenty of healthy chOices On(Iretan

It is quitc acceptable tO makc a full rneal of these instead of a nlain cOurse. Three plates of rnezedes are abOut equiv― alent in price and quantity t0 0ne nlain course.You can also order a ρ′ たノ ′ ′ α(mixed

sα

platC).

drachnla― conscious tourists rnake it a lnain

Soups SOup is nOrmally eatcn as a startcr, but can be an cconornical rneal in itself with bread and a salad. Psα ″ οsο ′α is a ■lling ish soup with vegetables,“ 、 vhile たαたαップ α ((Greek bouillabaisse) is laden lα ― 、 vith seafood and is lllore expensive ノ Sο ′ α α(bean SOup)iS alSO a meal in itSeli Иνgο`′′ ι″α″οSο ン フα (egg and lemOn SOup) is usually prepared frorll a chicken stock.lf you'rc into offal,don't nliss thc traditiOnal Easter soup,″ ,αヅ ′ ′ ′ sα ,at this tstive time.

SaladS The ubiquitOuS(and n0 10nger in‐ expensive)Greek or village salad,ノ 7ο ″ ノ α′ ,た ,

凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 鵡 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

′ α′ α,is a sidc dish for Greeks,but manly

dish.It consists of peppers,OniOns,01ives, tonlatoes and feta chccse, sprinkled 、 vith

oregano and dressed with olivc oil and lemon juice.A tomato salad o■ en comes

、 vith onions,cucunlber and olives,and,with bread,makeS a SatiSIシ ing lunCh.In Spring, ty rα ″″αSα ′ ′′ α(dandeliOn Salad).

Main Dishes The most common main COurSeS arC″ ,ο ″SSα た′ (layerS Of eggplant

or zucchini, minced ineat and pOtatocs

tOpped With CheeSe SauCe and baked), ο (bakCd CheeSe‐ tOpped maCarOni ″αS″ お′

With Or WithOut minCCd meat),dOlmadeS, andッ θ メ S′ α (Stuffed tOmatOeS Or green “

FaCtS for the Visitor―

peppCrS).Other main courses include gゎ ン_ ツ ノ(CaSSerOle oflamb or veal and pasta),

`な Srtカ グ ο(meat

stewed with OniOns),sο ン ト

zο ″ 力α″α(spicy

meatbans in tomato sauce)

and Sα ′ ノ ″gα ガα (SnailS in oil with herbs).

ルイ ο′ ′ Zα ″ ′S′ α ノ α is baked eggplant :ρ O″ rsα た stuffed with nleat and tonlatOes and topped with cheese, 、 vhich iOOks, as its(:〕 reek

name suggests, like a little shOc. Spicy ′ ο″たα′たα (SauSage) is a good budget choice 'ブand cornes with pOtatoes Or rice. И″ 」 α″ン″α(lamb■ icassee, ′ た鋼 Sι ′″ `″ C00ked ｀ Vith lettuCe) iS uSually ■1ling enough fOrt、 vo to share. Fish is usuaily s。 ld by、 vcight in restau― rants,butis not as cheap nOr as widely avail―

able aS it uSed tO be・ Calamari(Squid), deep‐ ■‐ ied in batet rerllains a tasty Option fOrthe budgettraVeller at 1000 drto 1400 dr

for a generous serve. C)ther reasonably priCed iSh(abOut 1000 dr a portion)are ″α″′ グ′S(Whitebait),sometimes c10aked in onion,pcpper and tOnlato sauce,and gο as, l′ ｀′ hiCh are Si:nilar tO Sardines.More expen― ∼ SiVe are ο力rαlρ οarノ (OCtOpuS), らαたα′ ノ α′ οs (COd),χ :β αs(SWOrdiSh)and gあ ssα (SOle). Ascending the price scale funlher are siソ ″α― gア ′ αα(Snapper)and bα ″ らο′″ノ α(red mullet). ИS′ αわ S(10bSter)and腸 ″ αら″α(CrayiSh)ae top ofthe rangc at abOut 10,000 dr per kg.

Food 81

Vegetables,grain and livestOck produced on thc island.13arlcy′ αた οis madeinto rusk that

is soncned in water and soaked in oil and tomato.(1)rete alsO produces sOrne wonder‐ nul cheeses including‐ sweet″ lzブ ′ ヵ′ ′ s, and the yel10w, sheep's milk cheese,g′ αν」 ′′ α retans are alsO fOnd of rabbit which is ,´

.

([〕

nlade intO stifado,or ste、

Aた

Snails are gath_

ered on hilisides after a rainfall and prepared

in dOzens ofinteresting wり S・ Tツ ε力οιみ′ ノ ″ らο bο ″″′ s′ J, snails simrnered in vinegar Or “ ヽ SnailS Vith barley. For centuries Cretans have been gathering wild greens nrorn the hills and lnaking thenl into 力ο′′ α, a deli_

cious,ta‖:vegetable side dish.

Vegetarian Food Crcte has fe、 v vegetarian restaurants, and

unfortunately, nlany vegetable sOups and SteWS are baSed On rneat stocks.Fried veg‐ etables are a safe bet as olive Oil is always

used― never lard.The Cretans do、 、 ′ Onder‐ 和l thingS With a■ iChOkeS″ g′ ″α″り.They

can be served stuffed,as a salad,as a rnezes Cularly with″ α方)Or uSed as the basis Of a vegetarian stev颯 ｀ /legetarians who eat

(pa

eggs can rcst assurcd that an ecOnOrnical ornelette can be、 vhipped up any、 vhere.Sal_

ads are cheap,nresh,substantial and nour_

ishing. C)ther OptiOns are yOgurt, rice

FiSh iS n10Stly grilled Or fried. ヽ4ore

pudding,cheese and spinach pies,and nuts.

casserole and rllusse1 0r octopus sα gα ″αたブ

etarians bccause the meat is nlissing iOm many dishes.

ilnaginative ish dishes include shrimp (彙 ied

With tomato and cheese).

Desselrtls(:)reek cakes and puddings in_ cludeみ αたノ ανα,ノ ο″力ο″″α″′s(punも or■ it― terS With hOney Or Syrup),た α′ αβ (ChOpped nutS inside shredded wheat pastry or inl。 SOaked in hOney),″ ,Zο gα ′ ο(riCe pudding), ノ ο〃たοン″」(Turkish delight),力 αんα (made 介Om Semolina OrSeSame SeedS)and′ αgο ′ ο (iCe Cream).Tavernas and restaurants usu_ ally only have a few Ofthese on the rnenu. 1・

he best places to gO for these delights are

gα ′ αた′ ο αorzα Pο たノ

力α″ ο αsた れ ρ′

Cretan Specialities Greek and Cretan dishes Often overlap but there are a fe、 ′Cretan specialties 、 vorth scarching Out.(1〕 retan fOOd is based upon the

Lent,incidentally,is a goOd tirne fOr veg‐

Fast Food WeStern― S,leね stお od has arived in Crete

in a big way_creperies,hamburger jOints and pizza places are tO be found in ali the

ma10r tOWns and reso■ areas. It's hard,thOugll,to beat eat‐ On― the― street

Greck offerings.Foremost among them are the gソ ″ οs and the souviaki.The gyrOs is a giant ske、 ver laden with slabs Of seasOned rneat、 vhich grills siowiy as it rotates and

the meat is trimmed steadily ttOm the OutSide;sOuvlaki are smallindividual kebab sticks. BOth are served 、 vrapped in pitta bread,、 vith salad and lashings of tzatziki.

Another favourite is′ οsr,which is a bread r。 1l Cut in hali Stuffed

、 vith the

82 Facts for the ViSitOr―

Drinks

■1ling(S)。 fyOur ChOiCe,butered On the Out― side and then inattened in a heavy griddle iron.lt's the spcciality Of thc Everest fast― food chain,which llas outlets nation、 vide.

fruit and vegetable stalis,butchers,dairies and delicatessens,all under one roOf.´ 「 hey are livcly places that are worth visiting for

the atnlosphere as much as for the shop― ping. The inarkets at l-lania are a good

cxample.

Fruit crete grOws many varieties of tuit.Most α(■ gS),Ю ― visitors will beね milar Withッ た

ノ α(grapeS),物 ψο″′ ″″″α(peacheS),S初 シ′ ′ Jα (Or‐ 0た α (waterme10n),7,7″ 0(appleS),′ 0′ ′ ″ αS′ α(CherrieS). anges)andた ′

Many

、 vili not, hoヽ vevet have encOun― tered the′ α″gο ッ たο (prickly pear).AIso known as the Barbary ng,it is the fruit of

the opuntia cactus, recognisable by the thick green spiny pads that fornl its trunk.

The nruit are bOrne around the edge ofthe pads in late sunliner and autunln and vary in

cOlour from pale orange to deep red.They

are delicious but need tO be approached 、′ lth cxtrenle caution because of the thou‐ sands oftiny priCkleS(inViSible tO the naked ICVer piCk One up eyC)that COVer their Skin・ ゝ′ ith your barc hands.・ 「 hey nlust be peeled 1｀

before you can eatthenl.´「 he sirnplest、 vay

α Srnallertowns have a、 vcekly′ αたノαgο ″

(street markct)with stans selling 10cal produce.

DRINKS

NOnalcohollc Drinks

Coffee&￢ ea(]reek

coffee is the national drink. It is a legacy ofく )ttonlan rule and, until the「 rurkish invasion of(I〕 yprus in 1974,thc(]reeks called it・「 urkish coffec.It is served with the grounds,without inilk,in a snlall cup.Connoisseurs Clainl there are at least 3o variatiOns ofGreek coffiee,but most people know only three― g″たο (SWeet), ο(medium)and S力 ″グ″′ (WithOut Sugar). `″ 1｀ he next most popular coffec is instant,

called Nescat(which it uSually iS).Ask lor α(pronounced`me ga‐ la') Nescat〃 ′g力 α′

Another iuit that Wll be new to many

if you want it with milk.In summer,Cre― ith or without tans drink Nescafe chilled,ゝ ′ rllilk and sugar ― this version iS Called ク￨′lρ ι.Espresso and iltered COffee,once ノン

α (10quat).TheSe pcople is the″ οンs″ ο〃′ sma1l orangeうruit are among the ■rst of su.lmer,reaching the markct in nlid‐ ヽ4ay.

sold only in trendy cafes, are now also

、′ idely available. ・Ilea is not the beverage ofchoice in Crete

The nesh is juicy and pleasantly acidic.

but it is available,usually in bags.1-lerbal ι ′ Jた ′ α― tea is beconling popular, especially ″。s Or di■ any tea.

to do this is to trim the ends offwith a knife

and then siit the skin nrOin end tO end.

Self‐ Catering

Eating out in Crete is as much an enter― tainment as a gastronorniC experienCe,SO to self_cater is tO sacrifice a lot.13utifyou are ′budget you,"′ ill need to nlake the On alo、 、

sacrillce-lor breakfast and lunch at any rate. All to、 vns

and villages of any size have

superillarkets,fruit and vegetable stalis and bakerles. (])nly in isolated villages and ´ on renlote isiands is food choice lirnited. There may

Only be onc a11‐ purpose shop ― a」 ″― vhich wili stock mcat,vegetables, `'α ο ′fο 、 ′ F'ο ′ fruit,bread and tinned foods.

Markets Most larger to、 vns haVe huge in― α (100d marketS)WhiCh ieature door αgο ″

Fru:t Juice&Soft Drinks PaCkagedう ruit juices are avanable everywhere.Fresh or―

ange juice is also widely available,but docsn't conle cheap. drink The products of all the ma10r SO食 ‐ multinationals are available every、 vhere in cans and bottleS,alongヽ "'ith iocal brands.

Milk Fresh milk Can be hard to ind in re― n10te areas.EIseν vhere,you'1l haVe no prob‐

lem.A litre costs abOut 350 dr.UHT milk is available almost every、 ∼here, as is con― densed milk. VVater Tap water is safe to drink in Crete,

although soinetiines it dOesn't taSte too

FaCtS fOr the Visitor― Drinks 83

good.Many tourists prefer to drink bOttled

Spring WateL S01d Widely in 500mL and l.5L plastic bottles.Ifyou're happy with tap

pleasant and even distinguishcd.The qual_ ity is uneven but the best brands tend tO

corne frOnl Peza, I)aphnes, Sitia and ´

、 vateL ■1l a cOntainer with it before em‐

Arhanes. Γhere's also the pOpular Vin de

barking on ferrics Or you'1l wind up paying through the nOse fbr bOttled water Sparkling

retc which is a mediOcre blend of 10cal wincs.The best wines arc labelled with the region Of Origin clearly stated. The house 、ア ine is usuallyた οたた,″ ο,a c10udy rOsё that ([〕

nlineral、 vater is rare.

AlcoholEc Drinks

ranges f10rn drinkable tO dreadful. It Only

Beer Beer iovers,

costs about 1000 dr a carafe while a goOd

erieS.The rnOSt pOpular beers are Anlstcl and

regional、 vine is at leastthrec tirnes as nluch lor a bottle.

ll ind the lrlarket donl_ inated by the ma,Or nolthern lE〕 uropean bre、 v

Heinekcn, bOth brewed 10cally undcr li‐ cence.C)thcr beers brewed 10cally are Hen―

niget Kaiset iKronenbourg and TubOrg. The Only 10cal beer is Mythos,launched in 1997 and widely available.It has proved popular、 ′ ith drinkers who■ nd the nOrthern

Don't expect Cretan、 vines to taste like French、vines.The grape varieties grO、 vn in Crete are quite different.´

European beers a bit sweet.

Imiported lagers, stouts and beers are loun(l in tOurist spots such as music bars and discos.YOu nlight even spot Newcastle

Crete.Distilled iom grape stems and

Brown,Carisberg,Castlemaine XXXX and C)uinness.

Supernlarkets are the cheapest placc tO buy beer,and bottles are cheaper than cans.

SF)irits〈 )uzo is thc inOst pOpular apcritifin

navoured with anise,it is similar to the Middle Eastern α′αた, ´ rurkish ″αた′and

French Pernod. Clear and colourless, it

turnS White When wateris added.A700mL

A500mL bottle ofAmstel oriMythos cOsts

bOttle Of a pOpular brand like(1)uzo 12,

about 200 dr(including 25 dr depOsit On the bOttle),、 vhile

I｀

he n10st pOpular

grapes are Villana and ´hrapsathiri. The 「 。ldeSt grape variety is Liatiko 、 vhich has been used tO rnake red 、 vinc fOr the last 4000 years.

(1)lympic or Sans RiVal costs about 1200 dr in supernlarkets.In an Ouzeri,a glass cOsts

a 500mL can costs abOut 260

dr.Anlstel alsO iprOduces a 10、 v_alcohol beer

flom 250 dr to 500 dr. It will be served

and a bock,which is dark,sweet and strong.

neat, 、′ ith a separate giass Of、 vater tO be used for dilutiOn. The secOnd-1■ Ost pOpular spirit is(]reek brandy,ヽ VhiCh iS dOrninated by the Metaxa

VVine According tO rnythO10gy,the Greeks invented or discovered wine and have pro‐ duced it in Crete on a large scale for rnOre

still very nluch in its infancy.Until the

label. Metそ 電 κa cOrnes in a wide choice Of grades, starting with three star― a high_ octane prOduct without much finesse.110u can pick up a bOttle in a supernlarket lor

1950s,inost([〕 reek、 vines、 vere s。 ld in bulk

about 1500 di

a■ eld than the nearest tO、 vn.It wasn't until

the gradeS:iVe Star,SeVen Star,VSOR

induStrialiSatiOn(and the reSulting rapid

([〕

than 3000 years.

The n10dern wine industry, thOugh, is

and 、 vere seldOm distributed any farther urban grOWth)thatthere WaS much caHお

´ 「 he quality inlprOves as you go through olden Age and inally the tOp―

shelf(:〕

rand

r

01ympian Reserve(5600 dr).Other rep‐

bOttled Wine.Quality COntrol was unheard Of up until 1969, 、 vhen appellation iaws 、 vere introduced as a precursOr to applying

utable brands include Canlbas and VOtiys. The Cretan speciality is raki,a nery clear

10r nlemberShip Of the then European Community.Wines havc irnproved signiF

Ofthe time Of day). If you're travelling off the beaten track, you rnay cOrne acrOss c力 ′ α ・1_′ ike ouzo, βン′

icantly since then.

Cretan wine may not make wine cOn― nOisseurs tremble with delight but it can be

Spirit that iS SerVed aS a greeting(regardleSs

it's made iom grape stems but withoutthe

anise.It's an acquired taste,much like lrish

84 Facts for the ViSitOr―

Entertainrnent

pOteen ― and packing a silΥ lilar punch.

come to Crete but if they do it would be

You'1l most likely encounter chipura in vil‐ lage kafeneia or private hornes.

during the lrakliO Surnrner Festival.

ENTERTAlNMENT Discos&Music Bars

Cretan men aC 100tball(SOCCer)and baS‐

SP■ CrArC)R

SPORTS

ketball mad,both as spectators and Partici―

areas, though not in the nurnbcrs of a

pants. Iflyou happen to be eating in a taverna on a night v/hen a big match is

decade ago.

being telcvised,cxpect indifferent servicc.

E)iscos can be founclin big cities and resoll

Most】/oung Grecks prefer to head for the inusic bars that have proliferated to lili

SH(0)PPING

the void. ´ rhese bars nornlally specialise in a par‐

Crete has a long tradition ofartisanship that

ticular style Of inusic ― Greck, Inodern rock,60s rock,techno and,very occasion‐

BIue cerarnics, clay pottery, handmade

ally,jazz.

has nletanlorphosed into a giant induStry. voven rugs, iconS,enlbroi‐ leather goods, 、 dered linen and inely wrouttt gold jew― ellery fill shops in all the tourist centreS.In

Rock vvestern rock music continues to grow in

addition tO Cra■ ed ObieCtS there'S alSO Wild herbs,。 live on,cretan wine,jellies,cheese,

popularity,but live music remains a rarity.

olives and other edibles.

Traditlonal Music&Dancing

ubiquitous souvenir StOres are nlaSS‐

ヽ4ost of the produCtS displayed in the Cretans are proud of their rich traditiOn Of

f01k songs and dances. In village tavernas iate at night sorneone is bound to produce a

lyra and inspire a group sing along. Wed‐ dings are great opportunities to catch a glimpse of authentic local culture. Cretan ■lusic is Often played in restaurants and clubs during the tourist season although it'S usually altered to appeal to tourists.

Cinernas (:〕

reeks are keen

■lovic‐ gocrs and almost

prOduced.Although they can still be good value, it's worthwhile to Seck out spccial shops that ofner authentic cretan itenls.()f all the large to、 vns,you'1l find the best sc‐ lection of crafts in l‐ lania.

Maybe it's the beauty ofthe city's archi‐ tecture that has inspired artisans,but you'11

ind thc island's most anhl lcather,jew― ellery and rugs in the streets behind the harbour.

Rethyrnno and Agios Nikolaos have a good craft places but you have to

fev′

every to、 vn of consequencc has a cinema. English― language ilinS are ShOヽ Vn in Eng‐

plough thrOugh miles OfsOuvenir shops.As

lish、 vith(3reek

has inorc high― end stores for clothing,ap― ′ er souvcnir and pliances and records but fcヽ ヽ cra■ s shops. Several villages in the interior are known

subtitles.Adnlission ranges

vn nlovic houses

nrorn looo dr in s.lall‐

to、

to 1800 dr at plush big―

city cinernas.

the isiand's capital and richest city, Iraklio

Theatre

for their crafts.ヽ rOu

he highlight ofthc Cretan dramatic ycaris the staging Of ancient(3reek dranlas during

a pleasant afternoon tooling around the

・

I｀

lrakliO's Surnrner Festival. See lrakliO'S special events section for nlore details.

Ballet,Classical Music&Opera l‐

ligh― bro、

v European culture has ncver

caught on in Crete, perhaps because local nlusic and dancing are so complex and in― 7cry fe、 v international troupes teresting. ヽ

can get gOod buys on

lincn in Anogia and Iく iritsa、vhile spending cOuntr)′ Side.

Antiques lt is illegal to buy,sell,possess Or export any

antiquiッ in Greece(see Customs earlier in

thiS Chapter).HOWeVer,there are antiqueS and`antiques';a lot ofiterns only a century Or tw0 01d are regarded as junk,rather than

Facts for the visitOr_shOpping 85

part Ofthe natiOnal heritage.´

I｀

hese itenls in‐

clude llandmade furniture and odds and ends

from rural areas, ecclesiasti9al ornaments ioln churchcs and items brought back,OIn far_nung lands.

Good hunting grOunds for this`Junk'arc Monastiraki and the nea rnarket in Athens,

and the r)iraeus lmarket held on sunday

There are a 10t Of places selling plaster

COpics Of statues, busts,gravc stelac and so on.

Leather W(ork l｀

he leather iS hard rather than Supr)le but

reasonably priced nonethcless; durable

nlornlng.

bags, 、allets, shoes and b00ts arc bcst ∼

Ceramlcs

Jewellery

bought on`Leather Lanc'in Hania.

You will sce ceramic objects ofeveW Shape and size― う unctional and ornannental― for salc thrOughout Crete. Thc shiny dark bluc glaze of Crctan cer―

amics is easily distinguishable frOm the lighter rnat iniSh of other Greek ceranlics.

The glaze should be hard enOugh nOt tO SCratch under the blade Of a knine:a glazed

bottOin is the best sign Of nlachine_nlade po■ cry.

You'1l find n10re idiosyncratic Pieces in sil―

Ver than gold.L00k fOr replicas of Minoan 。切eCtS SuCh as the Phaestos disk,which are 、 vell cranted and available only in crete.

Bags 7bgα ′ プbags

are wOven wool bags-0貴 en

brightly cOloured_、vhich hang i"Onl the ShOulder by a rope ヽ4inus the ropc, thcy nlakc attractive cushion cOvers.

岬 雹

Getting There&,Away For nlost Visitors, gctting to Crete means getting irst to rnainland (1:reecc, usually

― evcn if the hOtcl narlled on the voucher actually exiStS.′「 he

not rneant tO bc uscd

Athens.

la、 ′requiring accornrnodatiOn bOOkings ∼ 、 vas intrOduced in the 1980s to prevent bud―

AlR(lNT■ RNAT:ONAL)

get travellers inying t。

Most travellers arrive in Cretc by air, the cheapest and quickest、 vay to get therc.

charter flights and sieeping rough on ′ orked. beachcs or in parks.lt hasn'tヽ ∼

nes Alrports&Air‖ ´

ter flights inv。 lves visits t。 rurkey. lf yOu fly to(〕 reece、 vith a return ticket on a char‐

(〕

reece on cheap

The:1lain catch lor travcllers taking char―

I｀

・

here are three airports on Crcte: Iraklio,

ter flight,youヽ vill lorfeit the return po■ lon

1-lania and sitia. IrakliO's Nikos K:azantza‐ of kisを へirport is the largest and the point‐

flights bet、 veen irakliO and thc tJK and Eur―

ifyou visit・ 「 urkcy.(I〕 reece is one of several popular charter destination countries、 vhich havc banded together to discourage tourists fr。 111 leaving the destination country during

ope,but very fe、 ′dircct scheduled flights;

the duration of the ticket.´ The countrics in‐

n10st flights tO the isiand change at Athens Or´ hessa10niki.Athens'dilapidated airport, 「 Ellinikon, is 9km south of the city.´ 「 here

v。 lved、

entrン ′for

:nost travellcrs arriving on the

isiand.1｀ hcre's no shortagc Of dircct charter

rant to ensure people don't nit off

∼

sOrne、 vhere clse to spend their tourist Cash.

Thc result is that if you nront up at the air―

C)lyrnpic Airways nightS,and East for all

port lor your return charter night、 vith a ′ urkish stamp in your passport,youヽ vili bc

other nights.The airpOn's old military tcr― 11linal is dustcd off for charter nights in

lorced to buy another ticket. This does not apply if you take a day ex―

Vest 6or all are two nlain ternlinalS: ヽ

I｀

‐ cursion into 「 urkey, because the Turkish ill not stanlp your iinnllgration officiais 、 ∼

peak season. Buses 19 and 91 connect the E〕

ast and West terininals

passport.Neither does it apply to regular or excursion_fare nights. Charter flight tickets are valid for up to fbur、 vceks, and usually have a lnlinimurn―

Buying Tickets lf yOu are nying to Greecc tOn1 0utside Eu― vill prObably be the rOpe, the plane ticket ヽ n10st expensivc itenl in your traVel budget,

stay requireincnt of at lcast thrcc days.

ets nlust be bought rnonths ln advance,and

SOmetillles it's Worth buying a charter rc― turn cven if you think you、 vant to stay 6or iOnger than fourヽ veeks.1｀ he tickets can be sO cheap that you can aflord to thro、 va、 vay the rcturn portion. The travel section of maJOr newspapers is

popular nights tend to sell out early.

thc place to look for cheap chartcr deals.

Cha11:er Flights

More inlorlllation on charter flights is given of― later in this chapter under spcciic point―

charter night tickets are 6or seats ien va_

Origin headings.

and buying it can be an intil■ idating business. 1｀

11l be a rnultitude of airlineS and here 、′

travel agents hoping to separate you nr。

:n

your rnoney,so take tirne to research the op‐ tiOns.stan early― solγ le ofthe cheapest tiCk‐

hich have been block― cant on flights 、 ∼

COurier Flights

bookcd by package companies.Tickets are

Another budget option(sometimes cven

cheap but conditions apply on charter panied by an accommOdation booking.This

cheaper than a cha■ er night)is a cOurier ´ night. 「 his dcal cntalis acconlpanying

is norma‖ y circumvented by travel agcnts ′ hiCh are issuing acconlnlodation vouchersヽ ∼

freight or a parcel thatヽ vili be collected at thc destination.・ 「 he dra、 ∼backs are that your

nights to Greecc.A ticket must be accom‐

86

Getting There&Away― Air 87

Canceilation Penalties lf you have to cancel or change a discOunted ticket′ there are often heavy penaltiesinvc)lvediinsurance can slometinles be taken out against these penaltles Sc)me airlines inlpOse penalties On regular tickets as we‖ ,particularly agalnst'nO― show'passengers

Courier Fares Businesses Often need to send urgent docunlents or freight securely and quickly c:Ourier con,panies hire people to accornpany the package thrOugh custorns and,in return,offer a discOunt ticket which is sometimes a phenomenal bargain.Howevel yOu may have tO surrender all yOur baggage a‖

o、

′ 、 ance and take only carry― on luggage

Fuil l=ares Airlines traditiOnally Offer l st class(coded F),buSineSS ClaSS(codedり

)and econ― ‐ Orny Cla55(COded Y)tickets 「 hese days there are so many promOtional and discOunted fares avallable that few passengers pay full econonny fare. Lost.Tickets lf yOu lose your airline ticket an airline will usua‖

y treatitlike a trave‖ ers cheque and,after inquirieS,iSSue yOu With anOther()ne Lega‖ y,howeven an airline is entitled tO treat

it like cash and if yOu 10se it then it's gOne foreven Tlake good care of your tickets

C)nWard l・ ickets An entry requirenlent fOr nlany countries is that you have a ticket Out of the country lf you're unsure of your next mOve,the easiest sOlution is to buy the cheapest OnWard ticket tol a neighbOuring country or a ticket from a reliable airline which can later be refunded if yOu do not use it

C)pen‐ Jaw.Tickets These are return tickets where yOu fly out to One place but return frOm anOther lf available,this can save you backtracking to your arrival point

C)verbooking Since every flight has sOrne passengers who fail tO show up′ airhnes often book more passengers than they have seats Usua‖ y excess passengers make up fOr the no― Sh° WS′ but OCCaSiOna‖ y SOnnebOdy getS'bunlped'OntO the neXt aVallable flight Guess whO it is most likely tO be'The passengers who check in late PrOmotional Fares These are Officially discOu nted fares,available frOnl travel agencies or direct frOrn the airline.

Recc)nfirmatiOn if yOu dOn't reconfirm your flight at least 72 hours prior to departure′ airline may delete yOur name frOm the paSSengerlist Ring to find Out if your airiine requires

the

reconfirmatiOn Rtestricti(DnS I)iSCOunted tiCketS Often haVe VariOuS reStrlCtiOnS On them―

SuCh aS needing

tO be paid fOrin advance and incurring a penalty to be altered Others are restrictions On the

minimum and maximum period you must be away ROund‐ the‐ WOridl.Tickets RTVV tickets give yOu a limited per10d(usua‖ y a year)in which to circumnavigate the globe YOu can go anywhere the carrying airllnes go, as 10ng as you ‐ don't backtrack 「he number of stOp〈)vers or tOtal number Of separate flights is decided be― fore you set off and they usua‖

y cost a bit more than a basic return flight

TranSferred Tickets Airline tickets cannOt be transferred from One person tO anothen Trav― ellers sonnetimes try to sell the return half of their ticket′

but Officials can ask you to prOve that yOu are the persOn named()n the ticket C)n an international flight tickets are cOlmpared

with PassPOrts

TraVe:Periods‐ Ticket prices vary with the time of yea「

There is a low (off‐

peak)season and

a high(peak)season,and often a low_shOulder seasOn and a hlgh― shoulder season as we‖ Usua‖ y the fare depends on yOur outward flight― if yOu departin the high season and re― turn in the 10、 v season′ yOu pay the high‐ seasOn fare

88 Getting There&Away―

Air

tinle away nlay be linlited to one or two

the USA or Travel CUTS in Canada ofner

vveeks,your luggage is usually rcstricted to

g00d prices to lEurOpc(including Greecc),

hand luggage(the parCe1 0r freight yOu

and are unlikely to disappear overnight.

carry corncs out Of your luggagc al― VanCC),and yOu may haVe tO bC a reSident Ofthe country that operates the couricr ser― 10ヽ

vice and apply for an interView befOre you'll be taken on.

´ rhe fares quotcd in this book are in―

tendcd as a guide only.1‐ hcy arc approxi― nlate and arc based On the rates advcrtised by travel agents at thc tiinc ofヽ vriting.

Travel insurance

Travel Agents Many ofthe largertravel agents use thc traVel pages ofnationai ne、 vspapers and magazines

tO promote their special deals. Before you

´ 「 he lく ind of cover you gct depends on your insurance and type of ticket, so ask both yOur insurer and your ticket― issuing agency tO explain、 vhere you stand.Ticket ioss is

rllake a decision,there are a nunlber ofques‐

usually covered.

tions yOu need tO ask abOut the ticket.Find Out the airline,the route,the duration ofthe

Travellers with special Needs

joumey,the stopovers anowed,any restric―

if you've broken a leg, require a special

tions on the ticket and― above all― the price.

diet,are travelling in a、 vheelchair,are tak―

vhether the fare quoted includes all Ask ヽ

ing a baby,or have sorne other Special need, let the airline staff kno、 v as soon as pos―

taxes and other possible inclusions. YOu may discoverヽ vhen you start ringing around that those inlpossibly cheap nights, ise,are not aVailablc,but charter or other、′ of another the agency just happens to kno、 ′ One that`costs a bit nlore'.lC)rthe agent rnay clainl to have the last tWO Seats available to

vhich thcy vhole of July, 、 reece lor thc ヽ 、′ ill hold for a tnaxinlum Oft、 vo hours only. I])On't panic― keep ringing around. (I〕

IfyOu are nyingto Greece iom thc USA, South― East Asia or the UK,you will prob‐

ably,find the cheapest flights are being ad― vertised by obscure agencies、 vhose names haven't yet reached the tclephone directory

_the prOvcrbial bucket shOps.

ヽ4any such

flrrns are honest and solvent,but there are a fc、′rogues、 vho Wili takc your moncy and disappear, onlン ′tO rc()pen Clse、 vhere a nlOnth Or t、 vo later undcr a ne、 v nanle lf you feel suspicious about a lfirin,don't give them all the rnoney at()ncc―

lcave a snlall

dcposit and pay the balanccヽ Vhcn you gct

sible ―

preferably when booking your

tickct.(〕 heck that your rcquest haS been rcgistercd、 vhen you recOnfirm your b00k―

ing(at least 72 hours beforc departure)and again、vhen you check in at the airport.

Departure Tax There is an airpO■ tax of6800 dr on allinte「 natiOnal depanures l・ om Greece.This is paid

when you buy a tiCket,not at the airport.

The uSA The Nolh Atlantic is the world's busiest iong_haul air corridor,and the night options

to Europe― inCluding(3reece―

are bewil―

dering. ivlicrOsOft's pOpular Expcdia.cOrn Vcb sitc atヽ VヽVヽ V.expedia.nlsn.com giVeS a ヽ good overvicヽlv of the possibilitics.()thcr vorth checking out are thc l・ N sites 、 I｀

(wWWitn.nCt)and TraVe10Ciり (WWWiraVel oCiけ .COm)SiteS・

LOw scasOn priccs■ om Ncw York to

thc ticket.lf they insist()n cash in advance, go sonle、 vhere else or be prcparcd to take a

Athens can be aS 10ヽ V aS tJSS390 rcturn but rise tO t,SS944 in high season.

big risk.()nce you have b。 。ked the night 、ith thc agency, ring thc airline to check ∼ you have a conirrned booking.

Canada

It can be easier on the nerves to pay a bit nlore fOr thc security of a better― knoヽ Vn

,Om TOrOnto to Athens via Montreal.There are no direct nights fronl vancouver, but there are connecting flights via Toronto,

travel agent.Firms such aS STA Travel, with ofices worldwide,Council Travel in

Olympic Airways has two nights weekly

Alnsterdain, Frankfurt and London On

Getting There&Away― Air 89 Canadian Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa and British Airways.

Low scason priccs ■om TOrOntO tO Athens run at abOut csl129 and rise tO about CS1908 in high season.

Austra‖ a 01ympic Airways has twO nights weekly

Listings publicatiOns such as 77′

″ι02′ ′ ,the

Sunday paperS, the D`″ ′ ′ ,[rS′ α ′ α″ ′'and ,2ι

Exc力 α″gι 1イ ″ ′carry advertisernents for `■ cheap fares. The Iセ ′ ′ ο″ Pagas is、 ′ o■ h scanning for travel agents'ads,and 100k out fOr the nree lα

magazines and newspapers 、′ idely

avail―

able in London,especially riⅣ r,flο ο′ ′ οοsι Siο ′ ′ 力′″ ″ C,ο ss and ιИlイ ー yOu can pick

,

Return faresandareMelbournc nOrmallytopriced 'om 'Om Sydney Athens. about AS1799 in low season to AS2199 in

thern up outside the nlain train and tube sta―

tions and backpacker haunts.

high seasOn.

COntinental Europe

New Zealand There are nO direCt nights iom New

AthenS iS linked tO eVeD′ malor city in Eu←

Ope by either()lylnpic Airways or the nag

Zealand to Athens.There are connecting flightS Via Sydney, Melbourne, BangkOk and SingapOre On 01ympic Airways,United

carrier Of each countO/.

Airlines,Qantas Airways,Thai Airways and

Air France(奮 0802-802 802)and Olympic Airways(● 01-42659242)have

Singapore Airlines.

at least lour Paris‐ Athens flights daily

The UK British Airways,01ympic Airways,and Vir‐ gin Atlantic Operate daily nights between

London and Athens.Pricing is very com‐ petitive,with ali three Ofnering return tick_ etS 10r around IJK￡ 200 in high season,plus

tax. Prices are fOr mid、 veek departures; Weekend departures cost UK￡ 40 1nOre. Cronus Airlines(● 020-75803500)nies the London― Athens rOute ive times a、 veek 6or￡210,and olllers cOnnections to lraklio

for UK￡ 242.Greek newcomer Air Manos (雪

171‐ 2168040)offers

a weckly direct

nightto lraklio lor UK￡ 89 in the offscasOn

and iJK￡ 129 in the high seasOn.01ympic Airヽ VayS has direct London‐ Thessaloniki flightS fOur tinlcS aヽ

France

vcck.Most scheduled

nights'om London leave iom Heathrow

betヽ veen

about 2100FF at other tirnes. Cronus Airlines(● 01‐ 47425677)nies Paris― IrakliO Or Paris―

(●

020-77303402)52 GrosvcnOr Gardcns,

′ London SW i;Wu、 、 cainpustravcl cO uk Council´ 「 ravcl (●

020-72873337)28A Poland St,London

WiV 3DB;WWW COunc‖ travcl

com

STA Travcl

020-73616161)86 01d Brompton Rd,Lon― don SW7:、、 ￢w statravcl.co uk (●

Trailindcrs

020-79375400)215 KensingtOn High St, LOndOnヽV8 (●

Hania fOur times

ヽ Veekly stopping at Athens for 1650FF lo、 season and 2220FF｀ high seasOn.

v

Olympic Airways alsO has three nights weekly to Athens frO:n Miarseille. Reliable travel agents include: Air Sud (● 01-40416666)18 Rue du Pont― Neu1 75001 Paris

Atsaro (●

01-42609898)9 Ruc dcl'Echcllc,75001

Paris

Bleu BIanc ,01‐

(●

Campus Travcl

thelll.:Expectto pay nron1 2950FF

to 3300FF in high seasOn, dropping tO

40213131)53′ へ vcnuc dc la R6publiquc,

75011 Paris H`liadcs (●

01-53272821)24-27 Rue Basioi,75011

Paris

La Crecc Autremcnt (● Ol-44416995)72 13oulevard Saint Michcl, 75006 Paris

ヽlouvclles (■

' 08‐

Fronticres

03 33 33)87 13olllcvard dc Grcnellc,

75015 Paris

P:anetc Havas (壼 01-53294000)26 Avcnuc del'Op`ra,75001 Parls

90 Getting There&Aw'ay― Air

Cyprus

Ger:nany Air Greece has three nights a week iom

Olympic Airways and CypruS Airways

lraklio to stu■ gan and four nights a weck

share the Cyprus― Greece routes.Both air―

to Cologne in the suminer, stopping at

lines have three flights daily iom Larnaca to Athens,and there are nve nights weekly tO Thessa10niki.Cyprus Airways also nies ,Om Paphosto Athens once a week in Win―

´ 「 hessa10niki.Iraklio is linked by Lufthansa ith a direct flight on Saturday to Frankfun、 ′

and Sunday. Atlas Reise、 velt has ofices throughout lernlany and is a good place to start check― lng prices.

(二

The Netheriands KLM‐ associate・ rransavia has direct nights bctween Arnsterdam and lraklio on Monday and Friday.

Reliable travel agents in Amsterdam include:

ter,and twice a week in surnrner.

AIR(DOMESTIC) If you are inying to cretc On a scheduled night,chances are yOu'll arrive in Athens (Or pOSSibly′ThCSSa10niki)and then take a dornestic night to your inal destination. ・ T'hc(lornestic portion is incorporated into your ticket by your travel agent. AI『 ‖nes

Budget Air

The vast maority of domcstic nights are

020-6271251)Rokin 34 NBBS Reizen (● 020-6240989)Rokin 66

handled by the country's nluch― ■laligned natiOnal CaFier,01ympiC Airways,together

If yOu're travelling nrom Athens to Europe, budget fares tO a host ofEuropean cities are

there are nights,as well as in other rnttor tOwns.The head O∬ ice in Athens(● 01‐ 966 eb 6666)is at Leoforos SyngrOu 96,and itsヽ ′

(●

with its Olrlsh00t,01ympic Aviation.

01ympic Airways has ofices wherever

widely advertised by the travel agents arOund Syntagnla.Following are sollle typ―

松Molympic― airways.gi Tickets site is at、 へ

ica1 0ne‐ Way

can be purchased at the airport,

fareS(nOt inCluding airpO貢

taX):

destinatio口

Amsterdam (:〕

openhagcn

Frankfbrt

(3encva

Hanlburg ヽ4adrid ヽ4ilan

Munlch Paris

Romc Zurich

one way fare(dr) 57,500 59,500 55,000 54,000 52,000 73,000 48,000 55,000 55,500 42,000 53,500

rom う

01yrnpic Ainvays ofices or any travel agent. c)lyrnpic oЯ lers a 25'6 student discount on donlestic nights,but only ifthe night is

pan Ofan intemaiOnaljoumey. C)lynlpic iost its nlonopoly on donlestic rOutes in 1993.Ittook aヽ vhile for any seri―

Ous opposition to ernerge,butthere are now three established competitors on the scene and ne、 vcorners appearing all the tirne.

This crete_based airline,Air Creece,was the irst newcornerto shoW any sign of per―

nlanence. It has been arOund since 1995, offering a cheaper alternative to()lyrnpic On sOrne of the ina10r routes.It also offiers

Turkey Olympic Airways and TurkiSh Airlines share thc lstanbul‐ Athcns route, with at least Onc night a day each.「 Fhe null fare is

USS250 one way. 01ympic Airways also nies twice weckly ´ lstanbul and 「 hessaloniki bet、 veen

(uss19o).students quali″ おra 50%dis― cOunt on both routes_

yOuth discOunts(under 26).

E)iscOunt and package specialist Air Manos、 vhich ofiers sorne very cheap night and accornrnodation packages, and haS a reputation lor good service.Its Web site at 、 v、v、v.nlanos.co.uk provides inforrnation on

nights and packages. Cronus Airlines(●

01‐ 9956400,fax 01‐ 995 6405)is another traveller‐ friendly

Getting There&Away― Land 91

cornpany that has quickly establishcd itself on thc 10cal scene. lt Offers discounts for Students and fortravcllers aged over the 60,

(18,500 dr)and one daily nightto Thessa10n_

iki(29,700 do_

Domestic Departure Tax

and special rates for advance purchase.Its VVeb site,、 、 vw.cronus.gr,has for inore in‐

´

formatlon on routes and fares.

dr, paid as part of the ticket. All prices

Acgean Air is the latest addition to the line‐ up

r｀

he airport tax lor dornestic nights is 3400

quoted in this book include this tax.

of airlines in (3reece. It iflies be―

tween Athens,1-Iania,IrakliO and Rhodcs. For、 ard planning is advisablc as these ∼ domestic flights to Crete can be packed in high seasOn This information is for nights■ 。m mid_

June to latc Septembcr.Outside thesc

lD'o口

flights is 15kg. Ho、 vever, this docs nOt apply when the donlestic nightis part ofan

international journey.The internatiOnal fi・

rnonths,the number of nights to the islands

drops considerably.Prices are 10r One_way farcs and include donlcstic airpOrt tax Of 3400 dr paid as part ofthe tickct

nestic Baggage Allowance

′ The frec― baggage al10、 ヽ ance On dOmestic

ec― baggage

a1lo、vance of 20kg is then ex―

・ tended to the dOrnestic sectOr. 「 his

al‐

lowance applies to all tickets for dornestic travei sold and issucd outside(3reece.

LAND

Hanla

￢urkey

01ympic Airways have at least lour nights the afternoon flights and 13,400 dr fOr the

Bus The Hellenic Railways Organisation (OSE)operates Athens― Istanbul buses(22 hOurS)daily eXCept VVedneSday, leaving

late eVening flight).

the IPeloponnese train station in Athens at

a day nrom Hania to Athens(19,800 drお

r

01ympic Airways also has twO nights a wcek to Thessaloniki(29,900 dr).

Air G“ ece has daily nights iom Hania to Athens(20,400 dr).

Onc― way

fares are 21,800 dr iom

Athens, 14,300 dr iom Thessa10niki and 5600 dr lrorn Alexandroupolis. Students

Air Manos nies iom Athensto Hania.It

quali取 おr a 15%discount and ch‖ dren under 12 travel fOr halfLfare. seC the([let‐

offers sorne verン' Cheap flight and accorn― lTlodatlon packages.

From Hania,Aegean Air has two daily

ting There&Away sections b each cityお

nights to Athens(16,500 dr)and onc to l｀

7 prn and travelling via Thessaloniki and Alexandroup01is.

r

inforrnatiOn On where tO buy tickets.

hessaloniki(28,100 dr). T.rain・ rhere are daily trains bet、 veen

lraklio Fronl lraklio's Nikos Kazantzakis airpO■

Athens

and IStanbul(19,000 dr)Via'TheSSa10niki ,

Olympic Airways has at least six nights a day(21,900 dr)to Athens;three a weck to Thessaloniki(29,900 dr);お ur a week to

(13,000 dr)and Alexandroupolis(6350 dr). ・ 「 he service is incredibly s10、 v and the ・ here train gets uncolmfOrtably crowded. 「 arc o■ en delays at the border and the jour―

Rhodes(21,900 dr); and, twO a weck

ney can take rnuch iOngerthan the suppOsed

to Santorini(15,400 dr).

22 hours.

Air(3reece has four nights a day う rorn iraklio to Athens(20,400 dr),two daily tO Thessaloniki(29,400 dr)and three weekly to Rhodesin the summer(23,400 dr).

Cronus Airlines nies Athens‐ lrakliO t、 ′ ice

a day and lrakliO― Thessaloniki and Rhodes‐ Thessaloniki once a day.

Aegean Air has three dany nights iOm lnklio's Nikos Kazalltzakis Airpo■ to Athens

Car&Motorcycle lfyOu'rc travelling be― tween(Greece and Turkey by private vehi― cle, the crossing points are at Iく ipi,43krn north‐ east of Alexandroupolis,and atIく as_ tanies, 139knl north‐ east of Alexandroupo‐

lis. Kipl is nlore convenicnt if yOu're heading fOr lstanbul,but the route through Iく astanies goes via the fascinating tO、 vns Of

92 Getting There&Away― Sea ´

rhe Other border

SOufli and I)idynlotiho, in (3reece, and

continues to Bcigrade.

Edime(ancient Adrianople)in Turkey.

crossing is at Niki,16km north of Florina.

VVestern Europe

Bulgaria Bus′ rhe(Э SE operates t、 vo Athens―

Sona

buses(15 hours, 13,400 dr)daily except Monday,leaving at 7 anl and 5 pm.It also Opcrates Thessaloniki‐ Sona buses(7% hours,5600 dr,three daily).

Vestern Europe ()verland travel bet、 veen ヽ and Greece is almost a thing of thc past. Airfares are so cheap that land transport cannOt cOmpete.Trave‖ ing■ om the UK to (:〕

reece through iEurope nleans crossing var‐

ious borders, so check Train・ There is an Athens― So■ a train dally

、 vhether any visas

are required before setting out.

(18 hours,10,330 dr)via´ 「 hessaloniki(nine hours,6700 dr).

Bus There are no bus services to Greece

Car&I Motorcycie The Bulgarian border

■om the UK,nor iom anywhere else in northern Europe.

crossing is at Promahonas, 145km no■

h―

east ofThessaloniki and 50km iom Serres.

Train l_,nless you have a Eurail pass or are aged under 26 and eligible for a discounted

Aibania

fare,travelling to Greece l)y train is prohib‐

Bus There is a daily(D)SE bus between

itively expensive.For exarnple,the ftlll one―

Athens and Tirana(12,600 dr)via loannina (Larisis train stttion)at 7 pm arriving in

way/retunl fare■ om London to Athens is UK￡ 265/521,including the Eurostar ser― vice from London to Paris.In order to get

Tirana the following day at 5 plTl.It leaves

to(3rete,you'1l need to take a busto Piraeus

loannina at 7.30 am and passes through

buses,om Thessalonikito Kor9a(Korytsa

and then a boatto(Crete. ′ here are special buses that operate 24 hOurs a day tO Piraeus.Bus No 040 1eaves lrOm the cOrner of Syntagrna and Filelll‐

in Greek)daily at 8 am.The fare is 6600 d[

non,and No 049 1eaves iom the Omonia

and(3jirokastra_The bus depa■ s Athens

Qirokastra at 10.30 am.On the retum trlp, the bus depal威 ls′ irana at 7 am.′ rhere are T｀

I・

end ofAthinas.The buses run every 20 nlin―

Car&Motorcycle Thcre are two crossing ´ points bet、

veen(]reece and Albania. 「 he

rnain one is at Kakavia,60kin north‐ west of

10annina; the other is at Krystallopigi,

utcs fron1 6 am to midnight, and then hourly.All these services cost a inat rate of 120 dr.´ ickets can be boughtう rorn ticket kiosks and periptera. I｀

north― west of Kastoria.

Car&Motorcycle Before the troubles in

[PrmT YYgosiav Repub‖ c of maceconla Train There are´ rhessa10niki_skOp」 e trains

(threc hours,4200 dr,two daHy),which

crOss the border bct、 veen ldorneni and Gevgclija.It leavcs Thcssaloniki at 6 am and 5.30 prn. 13oth trains continue to the

Serbian capital of Belgrade(12 hours, 11,500 dr).The S.30 pnl scin′

ice goes allthe

way to Budapest(21 hours,20,000 dr).

Car&Motorcycle There are two border crossings between Greece and FYROM.One is at Evzoni,68k:Υ l north of Thessaloniki.

This is the main highway to Skop」 e which

the forimer Yugosiavia began,rnost lnotor―

ists driving iOm the UIく to Greece optcd for the direct route:(:)stend, IBrussels, salzburg and then do、 vn the Yugosiav high‐

、 vay through iZagreb,Belgrade and Skop」 e and crOssing the bordcr to Evzoni.

SEA Ferry

Feries come in all shapes and sizes,金 om the giant`superferries'that work the maJOr rOutes to the small,ageing Open ferries that chug around the back、 vaters.In、 vinter,ser―

vices to sorne of thc slmaller isiands are fairly skeletal. Services start to pick up

Getting There&Away― Sea 93

again nrom April onwards,and by July and

boatis going tO make,and its estinlated ar‐

August there are cOuntless services criss―

rival time.

crossing the Aegean. cOsts Priccs are nxed by the governinent, Routes The hub Of Greece's ferly nctwOrk

and arc deteri■ lined by thc distancc travelled

is Piraeus,the port of Athens.Ferries leave

rather than by thc facilities of a particular

here fOr the Cyclades, I)odccanese, the

boat. 1｀ here

North― Eastern Aegean lsiands,Saronic(:}ulf

can be big difnerences in the size,com10■ and facilities Of boats ofliering

lsiands and([〕 retc.Note that there are tv′ 0 departure points for Crete.Ferries for lrak‐

rival services on a given rOute,but the fares

liO leaVe iOm the western end of Akti

you rnay ind atticket agencies are the result of sorne agents sacrincing part of the corn_

Kondyli,but feries for Other Cretan pO■

s

occasionally dock there as、 ell lt's a long ∼ 、 vay to the other departure pOint fOr Crete on Akti lν〔 iaouli, so check where to ind your boat、 vhen yOu buy yOurticket.

Schedules Fer:)′ timetables change■ oin year tO year and season to seasOn,and fer― ries are subject tO delり S and cancellations at short notice due tO bad、 vcather,strikes Or bOatS sinlply conking out.No timetable is infallible, but the c。 lmprehensivc 、 vcckly list of depanures frOm Piraeus put Out by the EC)T in Athens is as accurate as hu― nlanly pOssible.´ rhe people to go to forthe nlost up― to‐ date ferry infOrnlation are the 10Cal pOrt p01iCC Fブ 〃 α″力οJり ,WhOSe oF

`″ ices arc usually On or near the quay sidc. ´ here's a lot of infOrnlatiOn about ferry 「 SerViCeS On the lnternet.Try the Web sitc at 、′ 、、 v.ferrics gr 、 vith its useful search pro― ∼ grarn and links. Many ofthe larger nerlう ′COmpanies now

will be the sanle.Srnall dilllerences in price

miSSiOn tO quali″ aS a`diSCOunt SeⅣ The discountis seldom more than 50 di

iCe'.

Ciasses′ he large ferries usually have four classes: l st― class has air― con cabins and a posh lounge and restaurant; 2nd― class has smaller cabins and sornetinles a separate I｀

lounge;tOurist class gives you a bel・ th in a shared four― bcrth cabin; and 3rd (deck) class gives you access tO a rOOrn、 vith`air― line seats',a restaurant,a lounge/bar and,of

course,the deck. E)eck class rernains an econornical way tO travel, v/hile a lst―

class ticket can cOst al‐

lnost as inuch as nying on some routes. children under four travcl for nree, while children bct、 veen fOur and 10 pay half fare.

Full fares apply fOr children over 10.Unless

you state other、 ′ ise 、 vhen purchasing a ticket,you will autornatically be given deck class.Prices quOted in this book are for deck class as this is what most tOurists Opt f。

■

haVe their OWn sites, including ANEK

(Www.anek.gr) and

Minoan

Lines

Ticket Purchase Ferries are prone to de_

(WWW.minOan.gr). ´

lays and cancellatiOns in bad、 veathcr,so it's best nottO buy a ticket untilit has been con‐

ferry a day■ Om a mainland port to the rnaJOr isiand in each group,and during the high SeaSOn(什 Om JunetO mid― September)

firmed that the ferry is Operating. If yOu need to reserve a car space,you lmay need to pay in advance lf the service is can_

thCre are considerably nlore. Ferries sail―

celled, 】 /Ou can transfer lyOur ticket to the

「 hroughoutthclyear there is at lcast one

ing fron1 0ne island grOup to anothcr are

not so frcquent, and if yOu're going to travel in this、 ay yOu'li nccd tO plan care―

∼

lully,other、 ′ isc yOu lmay end up having tO backtrack to Piraeus.

´ ravelling time can vary cOnsiderably lronl one ferry tO anOthcr, depending on I｀

the ship and the route it takes.Be10re buy… ing yOur ticket,check hO、 v many stops the

next available servicc with that cOnlpany. Agencies selling tickets line the 、 vater― ont Of n10st pOrts, but rarely is therc one fl‐

that sells tickets fOr every bOat,and Ofl:en an

agency is reluctant tO give yOu infOrmatiOn about a boatit dOes nOt selltickets fOr.This lneans you have to check the tirnetables dis―

played outside each agency to 、′ hich feriγ is next tO depart―

■nd out Or ask the

94 Gel日 ting

There&Away― Sea

polll police. In high season, a nurnber of boats may be duc at a port at around the same tilne,so itis not beyond the realrns of pOssibility that you might get on the wrong boat.・ 「 he crucialthing to look out for is the

ill terference.A couple of other people‐ 、′

have ghetto blasters pumping out heavy rnetal, and everyonc will be engaged in ioud conversation. Snnoke‐ laden air adds the linal touch to

narne of the boat; this will be printed on

this delightnul ambicnce.unlike other pub_

yOur ticket,and in large lEnglish letters on the side ofthe vessel. lffor sorne reason you haven't purchased

lic transport inく ]reece,smoking is not pro‐ hibited on feries. (:)n overnight trips,backpackers usually you sieep on deck in their sieeping bags―

a ticket fiom an agency, makeshift tickct tables are put up beside a ferl)7 about an hour before departure.・ rickets can alsO be

purchased on board the ship after it has salled. If you arc、 vaitingi at the quay sidc for a delayed fen1/,don't lose lpatience and

wander ofl Ferry boats,once they turn up, can demonstrate amazing alacrity― blink and you inay miss the boat.

can also roll out your bag bet、

veen the`air―

line seats'.

Ifyou don't have a sleeping bag,clainl an

`airline seat'as sOon as you board. Leavc your luggage on it― as long as you don't ′ leave any valuables in it. 「 he noise on

board usually dies do、 vn around midnight sO you should be able to snatch a few hours sieep.

Ferry Travel(Dnce on board, the fun really begins.It can be absolute chaos in high season.No nlatter how■ lany passen― gers are already on the ferry,■ lore wili be

crarnmed on.13ewildered,black‐ shrouded grannies are steered through the crowd by teenage grandchildren, children get sep― arated frorn parents,people sturnble over

´ 「 he food sold at ferry snack bars ranges nrorn nlediocre to inedible,and the choice is limited to packets of biscuits, sand‐ 、 viches, very greasy pizzas and cheese ples.

Most large ferries also have a self― vhere the food is(DK service restaurant 、 and reasonably priced,with main courses

backpacks, dogs get excited and bark― and everyOne rushcs to grab a seat. As

geting,have special dietary requirenlents,

well as birds in cages and cats in baskets

or are at all fussy about what you cat,take

there is almost always atleast one truck of

food with you.

livestock on board― usually sheep,goats or cattle,vociferously nlaking their pres‐

ence known. reeks travelling deck class usually ([〕

make a beeline for the indooriounge/snack bar,while tourists inake for the deck v/here

they can sunbathe. Sorne fenう ′COrnpanies have allegedly at― temipted to capitalise on this natural division

reeks that by telling backpackers and non‐ they are barred nronl the deck_class sal。 。n and indoor― seating area,directing them in― stead to the sun deck.1｀ here is no such thing as`deck only'class on domestic fcn,ics,al‐ though there is on international ferries. (:〕

starting at around 1500 dr.If you are bud‐

Greek Mainland 8:Isiands

′ 「 here are no international connections by sea to Crete but there are international con‐

nections to Athens and Thessaloniki on ]reece, and to Greck islands, nlainiand く such as Rhodes,which are all connected by boat to Crete. The inain ferry po■ on Crete is at lraklio

with daily ferries to/針

om the port of

Athens,Piraeus.Hania and Rethyrnno also have daily tFies to/彙 om Athens.Iraklio

also serves inany other destinations throughout the Greek lsiands.

ア ヽou'1l need strong nerves and lungs to 、 vithstand the lounge/snack bar, though. ｀ FOu can reckon on at least t、 vo T｀ Vs

Hydrofoilln addition to the ferry serviccs, there is a daily hydrofoil service bet、 veen

turned up full blast, tuned to different channels and cracklingう uriously frorn in―

that runs in the surnrner and is operated by Speed iLines of Santorini_

lrakliO and Santorini(2)4 hours, 7200 dr)

Getting There 8:Away― Sea 95

E)on■

estic Ferry Schedules duほ tion

depatture city

arriVa:City

boats per week

lraklio

Piraeus

dally

10 hours

7(X〕 0

lraklio

Santorini

three

4 hours

lraklio

Paros

thに e

8,ウ

lraklio

Naxos

two

61%hours

lraklio

Tinos

8ラ

lraklio

Syros

8,ウ

3700 5200 5200 6300 5600

lraklio

ヽ /olos

17シらhours

10,000

lraklio

Rhodes

three

ll hours

lraklio

Karpathos

thに e

6)う

6400 4200

lrakllo

Thessalonikl

three

13 hours

12,100

lraklio

Kasos

6 hours

4200 9900 7600

o

hours

タhours hours

hours

15ツちhours

ねres(dr)

lraklio

Skiathos

tM′

Sitia

Piraeus

thに e

Sltia

Agios Nlkolaos

three

ll%2 hours

1600

Sitia

Milos

91%2 hours

Sltia Sltia

Kasos Karpathos

two two two

Sltia Sitia

Kaste‖ Kaste‖

i‐

Kissamos

￨―

Kissanlos

Kissamos Rethynlno Hanla Kaste‖

i‐

14う をhours

4し

ちhours をhours

5200 2600 3400

Halki

5ツ

傷hours

40(X〕

Rhodes

10ツウhours

6000 5100 4200 2100 7000 5900

2レ

Antikithira

two two two

Piraeus

dally

10 hours

Plraeus

dally

9 hours

Githio Kythira

7 hours 4 hours 2 hours

Note that Agios Nlkolaos and Sitia share the sarne ferry schedule

Turkey There are three feries daily iom Rhodesto larmaris in Turkey between April and C)c‐ tober and less fiequent services in winter.

Prices vary,so shOp arOund.There are alsO

dany hydrobns to Marmaris(weather per―

mitting)from April to October

おr

getto Crete you can take any train Or bus tO Athens and then Piraeus for a boatto Crete.

There are buses iom Patras to Athens (three hours,3500 dr)cveり´ 30 minutes, 、 vith the last at 9.45 prn. 「 here are nine trains a day to Athens.Four are slow trains (4)ろ

hours, 1580 dr)and ive arc express

10,000/14,000 dr one‐ way/return plus´ rurk_

interciサ trains(3%hours,2980 dr).The last

ish pon tax.Tickcts 10r ferries tO Turkey lnust be bought a day in advancc.Yiou will alinost certainly be asked to turn in yOur passport before the trip but don't v/orry,

intercity train teaves at 6 pnl, and the last slow train leaves at 8 prn. ヽ4ost of the ferry c011lpanies have their

you'1l getit back before you board the boat. Port tax lor departures to´ urkey is 3000 dr. I｀

italy There are ferries to Greece ttom the ltahan po■ s of Ancona,Bari,Brindisi,Triestc and Venice but all arrive in Patras. In order to

o、

vn Web sites,including:

Adriatica

ANEK Lincs

www.adriatica.it

wwwanek gr

Hencnic Mcditcrrancan Lincs

Minoan Lincs Strintzis Superfast

｀ v4entouris

、、 vw.hml.it

www minoan gr

、、 vw strintzis gr 、′ 、へ v superfast corn w、 v、 こ ventouris.gr

96 Cetting There&Away― Sea ′ 「 he following ferry services are for high season(July and August),and prices areお r onc― way dcck class. 1)eck class on these services means exactly that. If yOu want a

siglio 55;Fragline(● 831‐ 590196),Corso aribaldi 88;Hellenicヽ 4editerranean Lines

(:〕

reclining,aircralR― type seat,you'1l be up for

Garibaldi 8;and Med Link Lines(● 831‐ 527667),repre‐ sented by Discovery Shipping,(〕 orso

another 10 to 15%on top ofthe listed fares.

([〕

Most companies offer discounts for rcturn travel.Prices are about 30,6 1ess in the lo、

v

(● 831‐ 528531),Corso

aribaldi 49.

Adriatica and HellenК Mediteranean are the nlost expensive at around lL100,000 for

season.

deck class passage to Cornu(7%hours), Igoumenitsa(nine hours)or Patras(15%

Ancona to Patras This route has becoine

hOurS),but they are the beSt.They are alSO the only lines、 vhich accept Eurail passes. You 、′ ill still have to pay port tax and a high‐ season loading in surnmer― usually

increasingly pOpular in recent years.´「 here can be up tO three boats dally in surnrner, and atleast one a day year‐ round.

Superfast Ferries(雷

71-202805)pro―

vides the fastest and n10st cOnvenient ser― vice,but it's also the nlost expensive.It has

boats daily(20 hours, L148,000). Minoan Lines('71‐ 201708)has tries to Patras

(20 hours,L124,000)via lgoumenitsa(15 hours)daily except Tuesday.ANEK Lines (,71‐ 20 5999)runs two direct boats weekly(24 hours,Ll15,000)and three via

15,000. If you want to use your Eurail pass,it is

about l_′

inlportant to reserve sorne wecks in ad‐

vance,pa■ icularly in suminer.Even with a booking,you must still go to the Adriatica or He!lenic Mediterranean embarkation of‐ ■ce in the stazlone nlarittinla to have your ticket checked.

The cheapest crossing is、 vith Five Star

lgoulmenitsa(34 hours).Strintzis(1071‐ 20

Lines, which charges L46,000 to either

10 68)sails direct to Patras(23 hours,

lgoumenitsa(7%hours)or Patras(15%

L96,000)three times weckly,twice via

hours).Med Link charges L62,000 to

lgounlenitsa and Corfu.

lgournenitsa and iL65,000 to Patras,、

′ hile ∼

Fragline charges L68,000 to Corfu and Superfast Ferries(●

Bari to Colfu, lgournenitsa& Patras 80‐ 5211416)operates

lgounlenitsa. Fares for cars range nrom L65,500 to L120,000 in the high season,

daily to I)atras(15 hours, lL88,000)via lgoumenitsa(9%hours)_Marlines(● 80-52

depending on the line. From l July to 19 Septenlbet ltalian Ferries

31 824)has daily boats to lgournenitsa(12 hours,L70,000),while Vcntouris(● 80521

(● 831‐

7118)gocs to lgoumenitsa(13%hours,

Cori(3%hours,L154,000)lcaving Brin―

L65,000)via Cori.

disi at 2 prn.The service continues to Paxi

Brindisi to (Corful lgoumenitsa &

590305),Corso Gaibaldi 96,op―

erates a daily high‐ speed catarnaran to

(4%hours,L190,000 dr).

Patras The route nrom Brindisi to Patras

Trieste to Patras ANEK Lines(● 40-30

(18 hours)via Corfu (nine hours)and

2888),Stazione Marittima di Trieste,has

lgOumenitSa(10 hOurS)iS the CheapeSt and

three boats weckly to Patras travelling via ´ lgournenitsa. 「 he trip takes 37 hours and costs L106,000 1or deck class.

nlost popular of the various Adriatic cross― ings.´ rhere can be up tO five boats daily in high season. Companies opertting irries■ om Brin‐

disi are:Adriatica di Navigazione(●

831-

Venice to Patras Minoan Lines(● 41‐ 27 12345),Magazzino 17,Santa Marta,

523825),Corso(3aribaldi 85-87,and on

has boats nrornヽ 4enice to Patras(40 hours,

the lst in。 。r of the stazione nlarittinla,

L132,000).Ali services go via Corfu

where you rnust go to check in; Five Star Lines(● 831‐ 524869),represented by An― gela Gloia Agenzia Marittima,Via F Con‐

and igoumenitsa,and iom mid‐

l ay until late September t、 vo boats、 veckly call at

Keね Honia.

Plying his trade― street cobbler rnending shOes in lrakllo.

……1鯉 ‐圏■国■■ 筆

雪

A street vendor selling donuts,breads and

Many Cretans st‖ l use traditional forms of

pastries in Rethynino.

transport.

≧

Cafe tables llne the old Port of Rethymno

Take your plck of local olives at Hania's food market

Seafood market stall on 1 866 Street ln lraklio

VegetableS fOr Sale in Rethymno

Getting There&Away― Sea 97

VVarning iarly vuinerable to change:prices for inter―

on Friday, and then calis at Rhodes, San― ´ torini and inos on the way to Piracus. It leaves Piraeus at 7 pin on Monday,stopping vay to at Santorini and Patnlos on the 、

nati()nal travel are volatile, routes are

Rhodes,Lemcsos and Cyprus.

I｀

The information in this chapter is particu―

introduced

and

cance‖ ed`

schedules

change, special deals corne and go, and rules and visa requirements are amended

It operates virtua‖ y the samc tinletable

for the rest of the year, but stops only at

Airiines and governments seem to take a

Rhodes and Leincsos.Bookings in lHaifa 04-867 are handlcd by Caspi Travel(●

perverse pleasure in nlaking price struc―

4444),76 Ha'Atzmaut St,and in Lemesos

tures and regulations as cornplicated as ′ possible ヽ ou sh(〉 uld check directly with

by Poseidon Lines Cyprus(● 05-745666),

the airline or a travel agent to rnake sure

you understand how a fare(and ticket you may buy)WorkS.in additiOn,the traVelin― dustry is highly conlpetitive and there are

many lurks and perks The upshot ofthisis that you should get opinions,quotes and advice from as many

124 Franklin Roosevelt St Both lincs chargc the sallle. Dcck―

class

fares,om Haifa arc USS101 to Rhodes and USS106 to Piraeus.Farcs ioin Lelmesos are lJSS68 to lRhodes and iJSS72 to Piraeus.If you、 vant a seat you'1l be up lor an cxtra ヽ tJSS10 nlore, 、 /hile the cheapest shared cabins cost an extra USS30 You'11■ nd the latestinfornlation on thesc

airlines and travel agents as possible before ‐ you part with your hard― earned cash 「 he

ww.fcrrics.gr for scrviccs on the lnterllet:、 ′

details given in this chapter should be re―

salamis br Salamis Lincs

Poscidon Lincs,and www.viamarc.com/

garded as pointers and are not a substitute fOr yOur Ovvn careful,up―

to―

date research.

Yacht )espite the disparaging reinarks ainong vay to see the backpackers,yachting is′ 力′、 rcek lslands.Nothing bcats the peacc and serenity of sailing the opcn sea, and the i〕

凸 凸 出 凸 蘭 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

(:〕

Cyprus&israei ´

Iヽ vo cOnlpanies ply the rOute betwecn Pi― raeus and the lsraeli port of Haifa, via Lelmesos on Cyprus.´ hese boats also stop I「

at Rhodes and various other(:〕 reek isiands.

eedonl of being ablc to visit renlote and uninhabited isiands. fi・

た ′ ブ ″g′ 力 The free EOT booklet Sα ′ `Glr`θ 10ng overdue lor an update,

S′ α s,although

sos at 4 prn onヽ 4onday,rcaching Rhodcs at iedncs― noon on・ 「 uesday,Tinos at 6 alll onヽ ル

cOntains IOts Of inforrnation about、 veather and exit conditions,ν veather bullctins,cnti〕 ′ regulations,entry and cxit ports and guide― booksうor yachties.

day,and Piracus at 3 pnl.The return service departs Piracus at 7 pin on´ rhursday, and

GNTO/EOT ofice either abroad or in

During July and August,Sala11lis Lincs lcaves l‐

Iaifa at 8 pnl on Sunday and Lernc―

vay to Rhodes, stops at Patillos on the 、 Lemesos and Haiね

.

｀ Fou can pick up the booklet at any

Greece. ´ I｀

he internet is the place to look for the

For the rest of the year,the boat leaves Haifa at 8 pnl onヽ 4onday and skips´rinos

latest infOrination. The Hellenic Yachting v、 v、 v.na― biznet.coin.gr/sail Scrvcr site at 、

Bookingsin Haifa are handled by Rosen― feld Shipping (1ヨ , 04-861 3670), 104 Ha'Atzlnaut St,and in Lernesos by Salarnis

has general inlornlati()n on sailing around thc islands,and lots oflinks. The sailing season lasts from April until

Tours(● 05-355555),Salamis House,28 0ctober Ave

C)ctober.Thc best time to go dcpcnds on vhere you are going Thc nlost popular 、

Poseidon Lincs operatcs a siinilar service.

In July and August,it sails[om Haifa at pnl on´ 「 hursday and Lelllesos at l prn

tiine is bet、

vcen July and Septenlber,which

ties in with the high season for tourism in gcncral.

98 Getting There&Away― C)rganised Tours

IJnlo■ unately,it alsO happens tO be the

time of year when the ″ι′ ′ ′″f

is at its

strongest.

The meltemi is a northerly wind that a■

｀ viernicos Yachts (● 01-9850122,21)(9850120)Poscidonos ll,

Alimos,ww‐

vcrnicos.gr

There are many more yacht cha

er cOmpa―

fects the Acgean throughout the sunliner.It

nies operating in Greece;the E()T can

stals ofF as a mild wind in May and June, and strengthens as the weather hots up―

provide addresses.

Oftcn bloWing nronl a clear blue sky.In Au―

ORCANISED TOuRS

gust and September, it can b10w at gale

The vast maoriけ (80%)of traveHers who

force for days On end.

decide tO head ft)r([〕 rete opt 10r a package

If your budget won't cover buying a yachtthere are severa1 0ther OptiOns Open to

holiday. Flighυ accornrnodation packages can be a

yOu・ I140u Can hire a bare bOat(a yaCht With‐

renlarkably goc)d deal,costing far less than

Out a CreW)iftWO CreW memberS htte a

what you would pay ifyou b00ked your air

Sailing certincate.Prices start at USS1300

fare and hotel roorn separately.

per weck for a It's an option have a sailing hire a skipper

28-foOter that will sleep six. only if t、 vo crew members certincate;。 thenvise you can for an extra S100 per day.

Most ofthe hire cOrnpanies are based in and around Athens.They include: Aegean Tourism (●

01‐

3466229,ねx3422121)Kadmias 8,

Athens;'V｀ ′ W・ acgcantours.corn

Alpha Yachting (‐

01-968 0486, 11lx 968 0488, enlail nlano

@otcnctgr)Poseidonos 67:Glyね da Ghiolman Yachts&Travel (● 01‐

3233696,ね x3223251,email ghiol

man@trave‖ in3J)F‖ e‖ inon 7,Athens Hc‖ enic chaners (● /ね x01-9885592,cmall

[email protected]

net.gr)Poseidonos 66,Alimos Iく

:ostis Yachting (●

01-8950657,fax 895 0995)Epaminonda

61,Glyfada,、 ″ 、 v、 v.kOstis‐ yachting.corn

1｀

he best dcals can often pOp up at the

last‐ ininute

as tour operators struggle tO flll

charter flights and block‐ booked hotel roorns. Most ofthe offierings are for largc resonis along thc northern coast. For a less industrialised vacation experi‐

ence, you can try One of the lollowing cornpanles: Pure Crctc(● 0181-7600879)79 George Strcct,

Croydon,SulTey CR0 1LD Simply Crctc(● 0181-994 4462)Chiswick Gate,598-608 Chiswick High Road,London

V45RT ヽ Greek ls!ands Club(● 020-82329780)

Grcek C)ptions(● 020-72335233) Diktynna Travcl(■ . 0821-41 458, ft● :43 930,

email salcs@diktynna―

traveLgr)6 Agiou

Markou&Kanevaro,73100 Hania,Grcece lsland Holidays(● 0176‐ 4770107)

Getting Around Bus Crete is an casy place to travel around

′ Most buses use the no■ hern high、 、 ay but there are at least one or t、 vo buses each(iay

thanks to a comprehensive public transpOrt

that use the old roads.・ he trip is rnore scenic

system_A fourlane n“ onal highway sk s the nOnh cOast iOm Hania in the west tO

buttakes nluch longer so ask before you buy the ticket. In ma〕 or to、 vns it's best to buy your tickct at the statiOn to nlake sure yOu have a seat butif yOu bOard at a stOp a10ng the way yOu buy the ticket frOm the driver.

I・

Agios Nikolaos in the cast,and is being ex_

tended nunher west to Kasteni― Kissamos. ´ 「 here are frequent buses linking all the

maJor nonhern towns iom Kastelli―

When you buy a bustickct,you will be given a Seat number(100k On the tiCket).The Seat

Kissamos to Sitia.Less iequent buses op‐ erate bet、 veen the north coast tO、

vns and

nunlber is indicated on thc l)ack ofeach seat

resorts and places of interest On the sOuth coast,via the mountain villages Ofthe inte― rion Fares arc flxed by the governinent,and are very reasonable by lEuropean standards.

Buses are operatcd by regiOnal c。

of the bus, not on the back of the seat in う ront; this causes con3usion anlong(Greeks and tourists alike Iく eep the ticketi it'1l be checked a fe、 ′timcs cn rOute.Thc bus sta_

tions in inaJOr towns keep long opening

llec―

tives known as KTEL(Koino Tamio Eis―

hours and are a good source ofinforrnation ´

praxcon Leoforion).EveD′ pretcture has its own KTEL,which operates local scr―

he schedules belo、 v are forthe high sea‐ son 1999;services bet、 veen the nlain cities I｀

vices within the prefccture and services tO

on the north coast decline by about 20%in

the main to、 vns of other prefectures.A use―

winter,but services to outlying to、 vns and villages can declinc by as much as 5096.

lul sitc is ww.ktel.org、 vhich has sched― ules lor all the isiand's buses.

CAR&MOTORCYCLE

Largertowns usually have a central,cov― 、 vith seating, 、 vaiting roorns,toilets,and a snack bar selling pies,

ered bus station

rete is plenty big enough to l″ arrant hav― ing your own vehicle which nlakes it possi‐ ble to visit smaller,more out― oFthe― way C〕

cakes and coffiec.Big cities like lraklio have

places.Roads have irnproved enormously

several bus stations,cach serving difnerent regiOns. In small tO、 ns and villages the

in recent years but in many parts ofthe is‐ land, particularly in the sOuth,)′ Ou'1l still ind unpaved roads that are only suitablc for

∼

`bus station'11lay be no rnore than a bus stop

OutSide aた q/υ ′θノ οOrtaVCrnaヽ VhiCh dOubles

as a booking ofice.

jeeps.Few pcople botherto bring their own vehicle froln iEurope; there are plenty of

ヽ4ost booking ofices

have timetables in both(:〕 reek and Rornan ・ script. he tinletables give both the depar― ture and return tirnes ― useful if you are

places to hire both cars and motorcycles.

I｀

lf you explore the island by car or scooter,prepare to spend a fair alnount of

nlaking a day trip.Tllnes are listed using the 24-hour‐ clock systenl.

time poring over nlaps, since cOuntry roads are often unrnarkcd. Road signs,

Regular and reliable buses link thc rnaJOr

northem towns iom Kastelli― Kissamos to ´ Sitia. 「 hese buses are generally in g00d shape and sorne are evcn air― cOnditiOned.

hen they exist, are usually nlarked in

([〕

rcek and lLatin letters except in renlote

locations.Even、 vhen written in Latin let― ters,the spelling of place nannes can vary 、′ ildly fiom the names On yOur map Orin

Buses do not have toilets on board and they

don't have renreshrnents available,so make

this book.Invest in a good map(Road

sure you are prepared on bOth cOunts. Snloking is prohibited On all buses in ([〕

v′

Editions publishcs thc nlost accurate is‐

recce; only thc chain― sn10king drivers

land nlap)but eVCn thC bCSt nlapS dOn't

darc to ignorc thc no sn10king signs.

covcr all the side roads.

99

100 Getting Around―

Bus

Bus Schedules and Costs F『 o■ n

irakllo

Agia Calini

Agia Pelagia Agios Nlko:aos

Anoghia Arhanes Dlkteon Cave Hania Hersonisos lerapetra

Malia

Matala Phaestos

Rethymno

ル％協︲％２３％腸・２磁％シ

duratiOn(hOurS) fare〈 dF)

to

Sitia

frequenCy(da:!y)

1500

650 1400

750 340

5 15

1400

2

2900 600 2100 750 1500 1250 1550

half‐

hourly hourly

half‐

hourly

half―

10 half‐

hourly

2850

From Hania b

duration(hours) fare(dr)

Kaste‖

i‐

Kissamos

Lakki

Moni AgiasTriadas Oma!。 S(for Samaria gorge) Paleohora

Rethymno Sougia

２ １ １ ％ １ ２ １ ２ ％

Ho餞 Sfakion

Stavros F『

frequency(dai:y)

1400 900 600 400 1250 1450 1500 1400 300

om Rethymno

Agia Calini

Hanla lrak‖ o

Omalos Plakias

Moni Arkadiou Preveli

Hora Sfakion

duration〈 hourS) fare〈 dr)

％１％２１％︲２

わ

1300 1350 1550 2750 950 500 950 1450

frequenCy〈 dai:y)

4 hourly houriy half―

1

4 3

2 1

From Agios N:kolaos

b

duratiOn(hourS)

Elounda Kritsa

% %

lerapetra

1

1%

ねre(dr)

230 230 750

fに quenり 20 12 8

%

1400

half‐

lstron

280

11

Lassithi plateau

3

Sitia

1%

1900 1500

6

!raklio

1

hourly

(da‖ y)

Getting Around― Car&Motorcyc!e 101

coming iom the right have right of way.

Almost allisiands are served by car fer‐

ries,but they are expensive.For exanlple, the price for a small vehicle fronl Piracus

ヽ4otorcyclists driving bikes of50cc or rnore must wear helmets.

to Crete(Hania or lraklio)is 19,610 dr;

(:)ffences and ifines include:

the charge lor a large nlotorbike is about Speed Limits(Cars)-120km/h on highways, up 90krn/h on other roads and 50krn/h in built―

the sanle as the pricc of a 3rd― class pas‐ senger ticket. In general,petrol in(3reece is expcnsive, and the fanher you get iom a maJor city the

areas. I〕

rivers exceeding thc s,peed limit by

2096 are liable lor a lΠ

nc of 20,000 dr;and by

more it costs.Prices vary'om petrol sta‐

40%,50,000 dL Specd Limits(Motorcyclcs)-70km/h(up to

tion to petrol station.Super can be found as cheaply as 199 dr per litre at big city dis‐ count places,but 225 drto 235 dristhe nor‐

I:)rink I)riving

100CC),90km/h(abOVC 100CC). ― A blood alcohol limit of 005%will incur a llnc of 50,000 dr,and ovcr 008%is a crilllinal offcnce.

malrangerYlou inay pay closerto 245 dr per

Illega1 0velnaking-loo,ooo dr

litre on the isiands.´ he price range for un‐

oing through a rcd light-100,000 dr Driving without a scat bclt-50,000 dr ヽ4otorcyclist not、 vcaring a heinlet-50,000 dr

I｀

C〕

leaded― available everywhere― is flom 200 drto 225 dr perlitre.E)iesei costs about 170

Vrong way down onc― way street-50,000 dr ヽ lllcgal parking-10,000 dr

dr per litre.

Sce the IE)ocuments section in the Facts for the Visitor chapter for inlornlation on li―

cence requirements. See the Uselil1 0rganisations section in the Facts for the Visitor chapterlbr infonna‐

tiOn abOut the (3reek autonlobile club (ELPA).

Road Rules Few、 vould be surprised to learn that([〕 reece has one of the highest road fatalit)′

rates in

Europe― it's a good place to practise your defensive driving skills!()vertaking is the biggest cause of accidents, so as a visitor you should fanllllarise yourself、 vith the rules ofthe road.Driving in the rnaJOr cities is a nightinare oferratic one― way streets and irregularly enforced parking rules.Cars are nottowed but parking tickets can be expen‐ sive.Parking for thc handicapped is a rarity.

In Greece, as throughout(1〕 ontinental Europe,you drive on the right and overtake on the le■ .Highways and inttOr roads are divided into four lanes so you should drive near but not in the right lane,and pull into the rightlane to allow the car behind you to

pass. Other regulations are that seatbelts must be worn in front and back seats,and you nlust travel Ч′ ith a nrst_aid kit,fire ex_ tinguisher and warning triangle. Carrying cans Of petrol is banned.()utside built―

up

areas, trafic on a main road has right of way at intersections. In to、vns, vehicles

´

he police can issue tranRc iines,but payt ment cannot bc nlade on the spot― you will be tol(l wherc to pay.Ifyou are involved in an accident and no― one is hurt,the police wili not be required to write a report,but it is advisable to go to a nearby police station Iヽ

and explain what happened.A police report nlay be required lor insurance purposes.If an accident invOlves inJury, a driver who does not stop and does not inforln the po― lice nlay face a prison sentence.

VVarning lf you are planning to use a mo― torcycle or nloped, check that your travel insurance covers you for inり ury resulting flonl a inotorbike accident.Many insurance companies don't ofner this cover,so check the ine print!

Signs of Trouble()ne reason for the scarcity of road signs on Crete is that they tend to getshot up.(E)n an isiand where nlost

adult rnen have a nrearl.1,road signs make vould― be rnarksrnen. tempting targets for 、

Aner a tw hits by a rine or.45 Magnum, piccing together the name on the sign is about as easy as deciphering Linear A.

Rental Car Hiring a carin Crete is morc expensive than in other European countries but the

102 Ceting Around― Car&Motorcyc:e

DriWing Distances

prices have cOrne dOwn recently due tO an increasingly cOrnpetitive environrnent. It

From Hania to:

Rethymno

pays to shop around especially if yOu'li be 78 krn

Souda

65km

Vr:sses

33 krn

renting a Car for a week or nlore.Although

maJOr international coinpanies such as liertz,Budget and IEuropcar have Offices in rnost towns you'll usually get a beter deal if you rent nr。 11l a local company.

Hora Sfakion

42 km 70 km 73 km

Paleohora

77 krn

mileage ttom a ma」 Or company start at about

Falassarna Frangokaste‖ o

55 km 82 km

l10,000 dr fOr the smallest models,such as a900cc Fiat Panda.The rate drops to abOut

VarTlos

26 krn

90,000 dr per weck in winten´ 「 he many local companies are nOrinally more open tO neg。 _

Kaste‖

1-Kissamos

Sougia

lrakllo

78 krn

Spili

30 km

MOni Preveli

37 krn

Anogia

54 krn

Agia Calini

62 krn

Argiroupons

25 krn

Plakias

41 km

Arhanes

69 5 14 16

Hersonisos Ma‖ a

26 krn 37 krn

Cortyn

45 krn

Phaestos

63 knl

T‖ ssos

km km km km

Agia Triada

66 krn

Matala

70 krn

Fodeie

29 krn

Dikteon Cave

70 km

Frorn Sitia

Kritsa

[lounda lerapetra

Dikteon Cave Moni Toplou Kato Zakros Lato Vai ltanos

Niko:aos to:

73 ll 12 36

km km km km

48 krn

94 l15 13 100 100

km km km km km

unlimited

v.・ 1lheir

advertised rates are about 25%cheaper than thOse Oflbred by the nlultinatiOnals.´ Ilo these prices VAfI・ of 18% nlust be added. ・rhen there are the Optional extras,such as a cOlli―

Sion darnage waiver of 3300 dr per day (m。

おrlarger mOdelS),WithOut WhiCh you

Will “ be liable for the irst l,500,000 dr ofthe

repair bill(muCh mOreお r larger models). (:)ther costs include a theft、

From irak!io to:

Knossos

season weckly ttes wi■

tiatiOn,especially if business is sIO、

Frorn Rethy● lno to:

Agios Nlkolaos

Higll‐

vaiver Of at least

1000 dr per day and personal accidentinsur_ ance.It all adds up to an expensive exercisc.

Sorne companies offier nluch cheaper pre‐ booked and prepaid rates.

If yOu 、 vant tO take a hire car onto a ferry, yOu will need advance written au― thorisation iOm the hire cOmpany.Unless you pay、 vith a credit card,most hire com― panies will require a ininimum deposit of 20,000 dr per day. The nlinirnum driving age in Greece is 18

ycars。 ld,but most car‐ hire irins require you to be at least 23 years old, althOugh sonle will rentto 21 year olds. See the(3eting Around section ofthe rel― evant cities fOr details Of car rental outlets.

Moltolrcycle lExtremc caution should be cx―

erCiSCd When traVcling by motorcych Roads

change withOut waming iom sm00th and paved tO cracked and pothole― ridden.Watch your slx,ed.Greece is notthe best place tO ini―

tiate yourselfinto the wOrid Ofrnotorcycling:

nlany tourists have accidents every year. Experienced mOtOrcyclists wi1l ind a light―

ヽ′ eight enduro motorcycle bet、 veen 400 and ∼ 600cc ideal for negotiating(E:rete's rOads_

Getting Around― Bicycle 1 03

Mopeds and motorcycles arc available for

C)fficia:Taxi Fares

hire vvhcrcvcr there are tourists to rent thern. From irak‖

In nlany cascs thcir nlaintcnancc has been rnininlal,so check the inachine thoroughly

ob

Aglos Nikolaos

be10re yOu hire it― cspccially the brakes: you'1l nced thern!VVhen you rent a llloped, ′ tellthe shop、 、 herc you'1l be going to ensurc

EIounda Hania Hersonlsos

that your vehicle has enough power to get

lerapetra

you up Crete's steep interior hills.

Knossos Matala

′ へ Motorbikes are a cheap 、 ay to travel around.Rates range frorn 2000 dr to 4000 dr per day for a nloped or 50cc nlotorbike to 6000 dr pcr day for a 250cc lnotorbike.

19.500 dr

Falassarna

Hanla lrakllo

Paleohora

vise to

ll,700 dr 12,000 dr

tober it is sonletirnes possible to hirc a

Most nlotorcycle hirers include third

dr dr dr dr

Sitla

From Kastelli‐ Kissamos to

party insurance in the price,but it is、

20,000 4500 15,000 1500

Rethymno

C)ut of scason thcsc priccs drop considcr― ably,so use your bargaining skilis.By(:)c― nloped lor as little as 1500 dr per day.

9700 dr ll,000 dr

2000 5000 22,000 6000

dr dr dr dr

′ 11l not include check this.´「 his insuranceヽ ぃ rnedical expenses.

Taxi Taxis are、 videly availablc in Crete cxcept in rcrnote villages,and are relatively cheap

by :European standards. Largc towns have taxi stands that post a list of taxi prices to

vhich renloves any outlying destinations, 、 anxicty about over― charging.C)ther、 ise you ∼ pay、 ″hat's on the ineter.You can negotiate with taxis to take you sightseeing for thc day using thc following prices as a guidc: ′ Flagfall is 200 dr follo、 、 ed by 62 dr per klm

(120 dr per km outside town or between midnight and 5 am).There's a 300 dr sur― charge、 ′ hen the taxi is hired at the airport ∼ and a 150 dr surcharge ifthe taxiis hired at

a bus station or port.Each piece ofluggage 、 、eighing nlore than 10kg carrics a sur― chargc of 50 dr,and there's a surcharge of 300 dr for radio taxis.(〕 rcy rural taxis do not have rneters,so you should al、 vays sct― tle on a price belore lyOu getin. Ifyour destination is atthe cnd ofa buinpy,

unpaved rOad you'1l pay considcrably nlorc― if)′ Ou can ind a taxito take you therc at all. lf you have a conlplaint about a taxi dri―

ver, take the cab nu11lber and repol■ your conlplaint to thc tourist policc.´「 axi drivers in Crete are,on the、 vholc,friendly,hclpう ul and honest.

BICYCLE C〕

ycling has not caught on in Cretc,which

isn't surprising considering the hilly terrain.

・ 「 ourists are bcginning to cycle in Crete,but

you'1l need strong leg nlusclesIYbu can hire bicycles in nlost tourist places,but they are not as widely available as cars and inotor―

bikes Prices range nrorn 1000 drto 3000 dr per day,depcnding on the type and age of the bikc.Bicyclcs arc carried flee on ferrics.

HlTCHING Hitching is never entirely safe in any coun―

try in the worid,and、ve don't reconlmend it.´ I｀

ravellers who decide to hitch should un―

dcrstand thatthey are taking a srnall but po― tentially scrious risk.People、 vho do choose to hitch、 vill be safer if thcy travel in pairs

′、here they and sho11ld let sonlconc kno、 、 ∼ are planning to go.(]reecc has a reputation for bcing a rclatively safe placc for、

vomen

vise to do it alonc. It's better lor、 vomen to hitch、 vith a conl´

to hitch,but it is still un、

panion,preferably a rllale onc. Soine parts of(3rete are illuch better lor hitching than othcrs.(〕 etting out of inaJOr

citics tends to bc hard work; hitching is llluch easier in renlotc areas.()n country roads, it is not unkno、 vn for sorneone to stop and ask if you、 vant a lift even if you

104 Getting Around― Wa:king

haven't stuck a thunlb Out. ｀ FiOu can't af― ford to be fussy abOut the mode oftrans‐ port― it may be a tractor or a spluttering

Taxi Boat

old truck.

transporting people to placcs that are dif6_

ヽ4ost southern port cities have taxi boats― smali speedboats、 vhich Operate like taxis, cult to get to by land.SOnle Owners charge

WALKING Unless you htte cOmc tO Cretejustto lie On

a set price for each persOn,Others charge a nat ratc forthe boat,and this cost is dividcd

a beach,the chances are you will do quite a

by the nunlbcr of passcngers. Either way,

bit Of walking.

prices are usually quitc rcasonable.

ヽ rou don't have to be a

trekker to start ciocking up the kilonletres. The narro、 v,stepped streets of rnany tOwns

LOCAL TRANSPORT

and villagcs can Only be cxplored on f00t, and visiting the archacological sitcs in―

￢oノ Fromi

volves a fair arnOunt of legwork.

dOmeStiC airpOrtS(See indiVidual entrieS in

See thc What tO IBring, Health and T｀

rekking sections in the Facts lor the VisitOr

chapter fbr rnOre infornlation abOut、

valking.

the Alrports

C)lyrnpic Air、 vays operates buses to a ne、 v

the apprOpriate ChapterS).WhCre the Ser― vice exists, buses leave the airline ofice about lレ ′ 食hours before departure.In nlany places,the Only way tO get tO the airport is by taxi.Check― in is an hOur beforc depar‐ ture for doincstic nights.

Boバr Ferry

ln addition to the large ferries which ply be―

veen the large rnainiand ports and island groups,thcre are smaller boats linking the towns along thc sOuth cOast,some ofwhich t、

are only accessible by sea. In summer,there are da‖ y bOats■ Om Pa―

leOhOra to Hora Sfakion via Agia Roumeli,

Sougia and Loutro that offer wOndernul

Coastal views. Although the schedules

Bus Local city buses operating う rOrn lraklio, Rethymno,and l‐ Iania are dcsigned tO take people back and forth nrom the city suburbs

and are not really practical fOr getting around the cities themselvcs. T｀ hey arc cheap and reliable if not terribly cOrnfOrt― able.「Fhe procedure fOr buying tickets lor

change lrOnl ycar tO year,there are usually

iocal buses is covered in the(3etting Around

two to three boats a day between Hora

section for each city.

Sfakion and Agia Rourneli and One boat a day nrom Hora sfaklon to Paleohora.There

ORCANISED TOURS

are also three bOats a week in the surnlller bet、 veen PaleOhOra and([〕 avdos lsiand and

Whether you、 vantto see the isiand by boat, bus,jeep, bicycle, fOOt Or On hOrseback,

a weekly boat between SOugia and(]avdos

there's an organised tOur for you.(0,rganised tours can take you to otherwise inaccessible

lsiand.

・ I｀

here are also tourist boats connecting

port cities 、 vith offshOrc isiands. In the

past these boats

、 vere always cα ′ S ― 9“ θ

sturdy old ishing bOats― but gradually

these are being replaced by nev′ ,purpOse―

built boats, which are usually called ex‐ press or excursion boats.Although it nlay be possible to negOtiate 、′ ith isherincn う or trips on the caiques, it is illegal for fishing boats to take on passengers.

Spots without having to hassic with buscs, maps,bad roads,p00rly rnarked roads,boat rentals or taxi drivers.・ he guide may pro‐ 1‐

vide yOu、 vith fascinating insights into local culture and is right there tO answer ques―

´

tions. 「 he disadvantages are that you are locked into a pre‐ scheduled itinerary and,if

inClude lerapetra to Hrysi lsiand, Agios

you have limited time,there rnay not be a tour going to your destinatiOn On the days when yOu are available. Most agencies have a tOur schedule ― Monday to the Sarnaria([〕 orge,´ ruesday to

Iikolaos to Spina10nga, and Iく Kissamos to Gramvousa Peninsula.

Agios Nikolaos,Iraklio or Rethymno travel

Sorne of the nlore pOpular excursions lヽ

astelli―

lく

nossos etc.In iarge towns such as I‐ Iania,

Getting Around― C)rganised Tours 105

agencies selling tours are abundant butthey

usually Operate through one tour operator 、 vho provides the transport and guide. Pricc― shopping is useless since the prices are set by the tour operator.Most agencies take children up to 4‐ years‐ old fiee and givc

a50%reduction to children bet、 veen 5 and 15-years― old.

(:)ne of the most popular tours is to the Sanlaria(3orge,a trip you can arrange fTorn ainlost any place on the island.´ 「 he pricc

you can reach delightnully out_。 f_the_way villages and sights.Ifthe agency is sending

Out a procession ofjceps ho、 vever, your main sight win bc the dust,。 m the vehicle ahead ofyou.Jeep safaris genera‖ y include lunch in a local taverna.

I:)epending on yourlocation you nlay be able to take tours to the E)ikteon(E〕 ave on vell as the towns, the L´ assithi Platcau as 、 sights and beaches of Crete.´ here are also I｀

various village tours that lcan heavily on

ranges fiorn 4500 dr to 9500 dr depending

shopping during thc day and dinncr/folk

on your starting point, but it does not in‐ clude the adrnission fee to the gorge or the

dancing sho、 vs at night.´「 hese tours can be

Sfakion.Most agencies also offer a Samaria

worthwhile, espccially if you have inore ded rnoney than time,butthey can get cro、 ′ ∼ in the surnrner. lBOat tours that include

Gorge`easy way'10r a few thOuSand

swimming operate■ om the harbours of

draChina leSS that takeS yOu iOFn Agia

Hania,Rethymno,and Agios Nikolaos as

Rounleli to the`iron gates'.Unfottunatcly

Well aS iFlany SOuth COaSt bCaCheS.TheSe tours can also get crowdcd but,unlcss you

boat trip ioin Agia Roumeli to Hora

the route to thc fa11lous rock slabs is rnostly

hot and boring but you will gct a taste ofthc gorge's maJesty. T'he Minoan iPalace ofIく nossos is another tour favourite but taking,a tour rnakes little

sense ifyou're staying in lraklio.Frorn Hania ill cost 7000 dr or Agios Nikolaos the tour、 ′ to 7500 dr and includes a guide,transport and sOrne 11・

ec timc for shopping and lunch in

have your o、vn boat,an organised touris the only、 vay to see remotc bcaches and islands.

Organised Treks Trekking Henas(● 01‐ 3250853,fax 33 4548)Filcninon 7,Athens 105 57,spe― cialiscs in treks and other adventure activi―

ties for smali groups. They offer t、 vo

lraklio.Adrnission to the site is not included.

week-long treks that cover central and、

Jeep safaris are a popular option ifyou're 10oking to get Far off the beaten track.Al―

ern Crete.See the Hania,Agios Nikolaos

though expensive(12,000 drto 16,000 dr)

ation about organised treks.

and Rethymno chapters for more infornl‐

醐 蛉 1…

_.

vest―

Han]a く︼ 〓く〓

HIGHL:G HTS

Hania is the largett town in westem Crete and the capital of its prefecttre.This part of the islald hぉ some OfCFt's mostspecねc‐ 1■ SIttts incl配 ing the Samaria Gorge,the

・ Trekking the spectacular sanlaria

Gorge

Lelkla()ri Mountains and Mount Gingilos in the rugged interiOr・ The ЮCb′ SOuthem COお t is dotted with iaid― back

beach communities

Such as Paleohora,Sougia,Loutro and IIora sfaklon,and the nearly dese■ ed,west has ヽ″0 0fCrcte's inest beaches― Falassana in the noll:hern corner and Elafonisi in the southern corne■ Near the tovnl of Hania is

O VVandering the narrOw streets Of Hania's Venetian Quarter

・ Relaxing on beaches such as Elafonisi and Frangokaste‖

o

・ Tlaking in the ornate facades of the Akrotiri Peninsula's rnonasteries

dle Akrotiri Peninsula with several interest―

ing nlonasteries and a fbw beach resOrus.

The pricmre is divided int。 ■ve prOv_ inCes:Sねkia thatextends tom the Lefka Ori mOuntain range to he coast;Kydonia which inCludeS the to、 vn ofHania;Kissanlos which covers the westem mid of the p“ ぉcture; Selino in the slouth‐ western corner; and

Apokoronas in the east. Each province is

uniquc,so■ om mountain climbin3 go嘔 e‐ 廿elddng,and scuba diving tO lazing on lle beach and explo

ng Venetian a・ chitecture you'1l always have sonlething tO do.

P“ Ohea P132

Kydonla PrOVEnCe ↓

己

凸

Kydonia includes I― Iania and the Akrotiri Peninsula and is、 vesterll C;rete's rnost pOp_ ulous province with 93,460 inhabitants.′ he coastline is highly developed,especially the stretch、 vest of I-lania,but it's pOssible to

Web of atnlospheric streets that turnble onto a magnince“ har )ur.11le、 たnetian

ind inOre isolated spots on the Akrotiri

townhouses along the harbOurside prom‐

Peninsula..The rnost outstanding geOgraph‐ iCal feature in this region is Souda 13ay,the

enadc have been restored and cOnvened intO ′ ″αrfa,restaurants,cafes and shOps. The massive fortincations built by the ′ vienetians are still impressive. rhc best

ment that presses around the〈

lο

largest natural harbour of the Mediter‐ ranean,which is no,w used as a naval base.

preserved section is the,″ estenl、 vall,run‐

HAN:A xα vι d

ning倉 om the fOrtress to Promahonas Hlll.

● 0021 ●Postcode 731 00 0 pop 65,000 Hania iS Cに た's most evocttive ciり ′With a vvealth ofbulldings florn its loHner

)ld Town.

Itemnants of lVienetian、 valis still border a

I｀

It was bui!tin 1538 as part ofa delonse sys‐ tenl when the´ urks were looking to expand their real estate holdings in the Mediter‐ I｀

ienetian

and Turkish overiods scattered thЮ ughOut

ranean.・ he engineer,Michele Sanrnichele,

its narroν v,stOne streets.I)on't be discour―

also designed lraklio's defences.´ he light‐ house atthe cntrance to the harbouri()oks in

「

I｀

aged by the caap¨ e Of mOdem develop‐

106

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J依・

、ミ

〓■一  彗⋮

HANIA REG:ON

Hania 107 Kydonia Province―

108 Kydonia Province― Hania

need of tender ioving care these days,but makes a fine silhouette against the sky, especially at sunset. Hania's war_tOnl histOry has ien it with

Kydonia met the same nery fate as most other Minoan settlelllents in 1450 BC,but soon re― emerged as a lorce.Although little has been excavated that dates from the mil‐

only a new iinpressive monuments but the city 、 vears its scars prOudly. VValk a10ng

69 BC,thetown was mentioned a tw times

Z;arnbeliou, Theotokopoulou and Angclou

by classical Greek writers as an impoiant

streets in the old quarter and you'II corne vienetian buildings turned across roofless ｀

to、vn

lenniunl preceding the lRonlan conquest in

city.When the Romans stonncd Crete,the lput up a heroic but ftitile resistance.

into gracious outdoor restaurants. Many of

It continued to flourish underthe Romans

the tinlber houses that date nrorn・ urkish l・ ule

with Kastelll Hill serving as the Roman

「 have been restored. Even during the height

Acropolis. Its prosperity continued during

ofthe tourist season when the buildings are

the early Christian years and it becarne the

festooned with technicolour beach toweis

seat of a bishopric.

and similar clapttap,Hania rc● ins the exoti―

Not nluch is known about the early

cism ofa cl,catlま tbcmeen Eぉ tand West.

Byzantinc ycars(around 330 AID)through

Hania is famous for its wonderful old

to the l)eginning ofヽ ´ enetian rule in 1204.It

ヽ4enetian quarter but there's10ts inOre tO dis‐

appears that the lByzantines recognised the

cover in Crete's second city and former cap―

port's strategic inlportance and built a

ital.Hania has a lively tradition ofartisanship

fortress here out of the rernains of ancient lydonia.It is possible that the nanle Hania dates■ om this period.

nlaking it a great shopping city,and the inner

harbour is ideal ft)r relaxing in a cafe and 、 vatching the passing prornenadc. 1｀ he cov― ered f。 。 d

inarkct was modened aterthe one

in Marsellles and presents a col()urful panoply of Cretan products. Tlo escape the

Iく

Although the ttnetians bouttt Crete'om

Boniね ce Montratico in 1204,theyね

iled to

consolidate their control over liania and lost

it in 1266 to the Genoese. When the

qualnc■ a delightill tangle Of narrO、 v streets

｀ vienetians finally wrested this inlpoitant har― bour to、 vn fronl the(〕 enoese in 1290 they

and little r)′ α ′ θノ αS,Or head Out tO the beaCh. Nea Hora isthe town beach,just wcst ofthe

rnade sure that they wouldn't lose it again. 1｀ hey invested considerable time and nloney

lo■ lress, but the water is not particularly

inお rti″ ing Hania,COnStruCting maSSiVe wans around the town.Thc nrst wans wcre

cro、 vds,

take a stroll around the Splantzia

clean. For better swiinrning, keep heading west and you'H come to Oasis Bcach which

becomes Kalamaki Bcach aner about 5km. Boats to Hania dock at Souda,about 7km south_east OftO、 vn.´ rhere are frequent buses

built in the 14th century around Iく

astelli l― lill,

and in the 16th century theヽ lenetians、 valled

the entire town as a denence against the

to Hania(240 dr)as we‖ as tttis(2000 dr).

pirates that were plaguing the Cretan coast. By the 17th century pirates were not the

History

growing lnenace nronl the east threatened

problem― Turks were the problem.The l、

colithic people nrst settled on I(astelll

lllill east of the port in I―

′ 、 へ ere

Iania Harbour and

′ 、 ed by the early Minoans who

all ofヽ ienetian rule and the Turks conquered

Hania in 1645 a■ er a grue‖ ing two month

arrived around 2200 1B(3 and founded a set―

siege,giving thenl a foothold on the isiand. The Turks inade llania the seat ofthe Turk―

tleinent known as Kydonia.Great seamen, the Minoans built a harbour and Kydonia

nlosques.´ urkish rule lastcd until 1 898 dur―

bccame an iinpoiant pol威 .Little excavation

ing WhiCh time the arChiteCtural Sサ le Ofthe

work has been done,butthe inding of clay tablets with iし inear 13 script has ied archac―

town changed, becorlling rnore (1)riental 、′ ith、 vooden、 valls and latticed、 ′ indo、vs.

ologists to believe that Klydonia was both a palace and an inlpoll:ant to、 vn,and is buried under the rnodern city of Hania.

island capital in 1898 and it remained so vas until 1971, 、 vhen the administration 、

follo、

ish Pasha, and turned the churches into I｀

The Great Powers made Hania the

Kydonia Province―

Hania 109

Linear B The nlethodical decipherment of the Linear B script by English architect and Part―

tirne linguist

Michael Ventris was the first tangible evidence that the Cireek language had a recorded history longer than any scholar had previously believed.The decipherment denlonstrated that the language disguised by these mysterious scribblings was an archaic form of Greek 500

years olderthan the lonic Greek used by Homen Linear B vvas written(on clay tablets that lay undisturbed for centuries until they vvere un―

earthed at Knossos:n Crete. Further clay tablets were unearthed later on the nlainland at AAycenae,Tiryns and Pylos in the Pel()ponnese and at 「 hebes ln Boeotia. The Clay tabletS consisted of about 90 different signs date from the 1 4th to 13th century BC.Little of the social and POnticallife of these tirnes can be deduced fronn the tablets,though

theに is enough tO give a g‖ mpse Of a fairly compiex and we‖

― organised commercial structuЮ

.

ed irnage of the actuallanguage spoken, since the synlbols were used primarily as sy‖ abic clusters designed tO give an apprOximatiOn of the pЮ nunciation of the underlying language Typica‖ y,the sy‖ abic cluster'A― re― ka― sa― da‐ ra'is the wornan's narne′ へ lexandra,but the exact pronunciatiOn rernains unknOvvn. lmportantly, what is clear is that the language is undeniably Greek, thus lgiving the nlodern― day Greek language the second‐ longest recorded vvritten history,after Chinese.The language of an earher script,Linear A,rernains to this day undeciphered.lt is believed to be For linguists,the script did not provide a deta‖

of either Anato‖ an or Semitic origin,though even this remains pure coniecture.

些 些 些 些 瞼 貶 些 立 瞼 鰺 凸 些 些 些 些 些 些 凸 些 transfelTed to lraklio.The WWII Battle of

thoroughfare.It's a naln・ ow,winding street,

Crete largely took place On the cOast west Of

lined with craft shops,hotels and tavernas.

Hania and the city was nearly destroyed by

the(3ernlan bombardrnent、 vhich was fol‐

inforrnation

lowed by a ire. Fortunately, cnough re―

￢ourist Offices Hania's EOT(● 92943, ねx92624)is at Kriari 40,close to Plateia 1866.It is well‐ organised and considerably

rnains so that Hania is still characterised as

Crete's most beautifui city.

nlore helpful than nlost.()pening hours are

Orientation The station lor local buses is on Iく

:ydonias,

o blocks south‐ west of Plateia 1866,one of the city's main squares. Fronl Plateia 1866 to the ienetian Port is a short walk north down Halidon.The main hotel area is tv′

7.30 am to 2.30p:Υ l weekdays.The tourist police(● 53333)are at irakliou 23.To get

therc,follow Apokoronou about 500nl out to where it becomes lrakliou.´ 「 he tourist police are open 7.30 anlto 2.30 prn of to、 vn

Monday to Friday.

to the lelll as you face the harbour, where Akti Iく ountourioti leads around to the old fortress on the headland.´ 「 he headland sep‐

Money The National Bank ofGrecce on the

Zambeliou,which dissects Halidon just be‐ lore the harbour, was Once l―lania's rnain

nlachines. 1｀ here are nurnerous places to

arates theヽ 4enetian Po■ ■om the crowded to、 vn beach in the quarter called Nea Hora.

corner of・ zanakaki and Gianari, and the 「

Credit Bank at the junction of Halidon and

Skalidi have 24-hour automatic exchange change nloney outside banking hours.Most

110 Kydonia Province― Hania

are willing to negotiate the anlount of corn‐

rnission,so check around.

Turkish VVomen in Hanla Turkish houses are distinguished by tinlber

POst a cOmmunicatiOns The central

aWnlngS iutt ng Out frOm the bu‖ ding On

post ofice is at・ rzanakaki 3.ltis open 7.30

the first and second floors.[)uring the tirne

arn to 8 prn Monday to Friday,and 7.30 arn to 2 pnl Saturday.The()TE is next door at Tzanakaki 5.(Opening times are 7.30 am to

of 「 urkish

10 pnl daily.

timber protrusions a‖ owed

:nternet access lnternet access is available

at Vranas Smdios(●

rule it was l)elieved that AAuslirn

wornen needed to be'Protected'from the raPacious glances of rnen and thuS they were kept irnprisoned in the house.The

58618)on Ag Deka

(SeC PlaCeS tO Stay).The COStiS 1000 dr per halfhour and it's open 9 anlto ll prn daily.

women to gaze

out onto the street without being seen by any rnen passing below. 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 statuc ofI)iana is particularly inlpressive.In

￢rave:Agencies Tellus Travel(●

/fax 91 500)at Halidon 108 is centrally located and

the sanle section there are vases,idols,and

jewenery excttated iom westem crete.Bc_

rents cars,changes money,arranges air and

lore lcaving the nluscurn,stop in the court‐

boat tickets and sells excursions.It's open 9 ain to 7 prn Monday to Friday.

yard and notice the marble lountain

Bookshops′「 he George Chaicalis Book‐

pm Tuesday to Sunday.Adinission is 500 di

decorated with lions'heads'om the Venet― ian periOd.The museuin is open 8 am■

o4.30

The Nava:lMuseum(奮 44156)has an

shop,on Plateia ienizelou, sells IEnglish― language newspapers,books and inaps.

interesting c。 1lectiく )n of modei ships,naval

Laundry・ rhe town has two laundrettes:

instrurnents, IPaintings and photOgraphs, including a picture of the old lν lenetian

Laundry:Fidias,at Sarpaki 6;and another at

tOwn. It is open 10 am to 4 p■

Ag Deka 18.The price is 1800 dr to wash

Admission is 500 di The museum is housed

and dry about 6kg of clothes.

in the fo■ lress on the headland.

Left Luggage Luggage can be stored at

(●

l dally.

Hania's interesting Fo:k:ore Museurn the nlain bus station on iPlateia

1866 for 400

90816),Halidon 46B,contains a selec―

tion of crans and implements including

dr per day.

weavings with traditional designs.Itis open

Things to See

9 arn to 3 prn and 6 pnlto 9 prn Monday to Friday.Admission is 500 dr.

Hania's Archaeo:ogicai Museu:m (' 90 334),Halidon 21,is hOused in the 16th‐

century ｀ /ienetian Church of San Francisco that becanle a nlosque under the 'Turks, a

The Historica:Museum and Archives,on Sfakianaki 20,traces Crete's war‐ torn his‐ tory with a series ofexhibits focusing on the struggle against the′ rurks.There are also a

n10vie theatre in 1913,ian(l a nlunitions dcpot

few exhibits relating to the(:〕 errnan occu―

for the Gennans during WWII.The Turkish

pation and a smali folklore collection.The

fountain in the grounds is a relic nrom thc

museunl is open 9 am to l prn Monday to

building's days as a mosque.The museum

Friday.Admission is iee.

houses a well‐ displayed collection of inds iOm westem C“ te daing iom the Neolithic to the Roman era.To the let as you enterthe

Trekking&mOuntain cIImblng

museum you'1l see artefacts iom 3400 BC to 1200:BC.Notice cspecia‖ y the tablets with Linear A script.1ヽ Iext you'll sce vases

700 BC). 'om the From the Henenistic Geometric and era(1000‐ Roman exhibitsthe

Alpin Travel(● 53309),in the complex at Bonaili ll-19, o優 iers many trekking pro‐

grams.The ownet George Antonakakis, helps run Hania's chapter ofthe EOS(● 647),at Tzanakaki 90,and is the guy to talk to for infornlation about serious clinlbing in

44

Kydonia Province―

!Hania lll

A Walking TOur of Haniars()ld Qua"er Begin the tour atthe cOvered f(ood nlarket,which nlakes all other fOOd rnarkets iook like sta‖

s

at a church bazaar tJnfortunately,the central bastion{Of the city wall had tO be demolished tO make way forthis fine crucifOrrn creation.lt was bu‖

tin 191l and mOde‖ ed aierthe mar‐

ket at Marseilles.lt nOw cOntains Over 70 food stores and there's a snnall park behind it.

Go around behind the fOOd iΥ larket tO TsOuderon.Take a loOk at the minaret,one of only t、

″o

left in卜 lania.There is a crescent rnoon at the top Of the sPire and you can see the cur‐

tain rails that shielded the′ ,,″ ο zzノ ″ frOnl the sun.Turn lefti on Tisouderon and it turns into Skridlof with its rOws Of leather shoPS・ Ybu'￨I COnne tO HalidOn′ Hania'S nlain ShOpping and mOst touristy street Across the street is Pronlahonas Hi:!which ls the best prese"ved section of the massive Venetian fortifications

begun in 1 538 by engineer Michele Sanmichele,whol also designed lraklio's defences Turn right On HalidOn and yOu'￨I COrrle to the Foiklore Museunl and then Archaeological Museunl on your letl(3rab a bite tO eat at cafe Eaterie Ekstra. Continue on to Plateia VleniZe10u With the Mosque of the」 anissaries On the right.Built in 1 645,the rnosque is the oldest(Dttonnan building in Crete although the Outer dOrnes were only constructed around 1880.ltis no longerin use as a mosque but has served vari()us adrninistrative functions over the years.Retrace your steps and str。

￨l a10ng the inner harbく )ur Atthe end ofthe harb()ur is the Naval Museunl.Ylou'￨l have a great view ofthe lighthouse sitting at the entrance to the harbour which is the most visible of the Venetian nlonurnents.Cio around the prornontory

and turn left up Theotokopou10u.This was a prosperous area in later years of Turkish rule housing nnany prOsperOus Clhristian farnilies.The architecture is a rnixture Of venetian rnan‐

SiOnS and￢ urkiSh hOuSeS SuCh as you'￨l see on Ritsou street. Turn lefti at‐「heOfanOuS and nOtice the lRenieri Mansion on the right which has a superb 1 7th― century∨ enetian gatevvay inside(Df WhiCh iS Renieri's private chapel.Retrace y()ur steps and turn left at Zanlbe1lou′

a charming street Ofヽ メ enetian facades.The side streets surround‐ ing Zanlbeliou nlade up the fOrnnerJewish quaiter of Hania under the∨ enetians. Make a left On HalidOn tO Plateia∨ ёniZe10u and then a right on Kanevaro.Rernains of the

Site of ancient Kydonia can be seen at the lunction Of Kanevaro and KandanOleu. The Venetians first settled here and it was this Part of tovvn that bOre the brunt Of the bonlbing

in VVVVII(IOntinuing along Kanevaro and nnaking a left on Arholeon you'￨l cOrne to the Venetian Arsena:,which has nOw becOrne cafes and exhibition sPaces.Make a right On iく a‖ er― gon and you'￨l corne tO sPlantzia, the Turkish quarter Wandering the 。ld streets Of this neighbOurhOOd nlakes a pleasant end to your tour 凸

凸

thc Lefka Ori.([〕 eorge can prOvide infOrina―

Mountaln Blking

tion on(3reece's mOuntain renュ ges,the lE4

Trekking Plan(SeC earlier)。 ftrSa in pr。 gram Ofnlountain bike tours at varying lev_

trail,and clinlbing and trekking in Crete in general.Alpin l｀ ravelis Open 9 am t0 2 prn

Weekdays and aner 7 pm sOmetimes in the eVening.・ rrekking Plan(●

'0821-60861),in

Agia Marina on the nlain road next tO the Santa Marina HOtel,Offers treks tO the Agia lrini GOrge,the lmbros Gorge and cliFnbS Of

Mt Gingilos,ainong Other destinatiOns for about 7000 di´「 hey als0 0ffertreks t。 los and the Lefka(Dri for 12,000 dL

(Dlrna‐

_

els of dificulty for prices that begin at 8000 dr.

Scuba lDiving BIue Adventures Diving(雪 40608,fax 40 608),Daskalogianni 69,ofners a PADI cer― tifiCation course for 10,5000 dr and dives arOund I― Iania lor 17,000 dr including

equipment.

112 Kydonia Province-lHan:a

く一 ２く 〓

Ho"e Rldlng

Chlldren's Activitles

ln'IlersanOs on the Akrotiri Peninsula,the Horseriding Club(● 39966)omers lessons

Venetian architecture before the end of

or trail rides fbr 4000 di

the first street, the place to llead is the

´

hey also provide a halfLday ri10naStery de(4%hours)¨ Ю ss Akrotiri which costs F・

12,000 dr ibr a minimunl of two persons. English saddles are available.

If you'd like to stay,studios,including breaklルIst,dinner and a fbw hours riding per

day,ae ttailあ le br 66,000 dr per person per week. 1ヽ

00■ ls are also available for 6000/8000

dr a nitttお r singles/do“ les.

lf your 16ve― year‐ old has lost interest in

´

public garden between 「 zanakaki and

Dimokrttias. 「1lere's a lplayground,a snlall zoo with a ・′and a children's resource ′ fメ ♭ resident た I｀

centre tllat has a snlali selection ofbooks in

English.

organised￢ ours Histtan 3ony Fennymore(● 87139)is a wealth ofinformation about Hmia's histolγ

KydOnia PrOVinCe―

and culture.Fronl Aprilto July and Septem_ ber tO()ctOber his帥 。_hOur、 valking tOurs

Hania l13

lolk dancing and ceren10nial events during veek of May.

the lastヽ

(3500 do begin atthe`Hand'mOnumcnt on Plateia Talo at thc bottom Of'1｀ heotoko‐ also l・ uns various guided minibus

PIaces to Stay

pou10u.1‐ le

Hania's Venetian quarter is chock― fu11 0f fanlily‐ run hOtels and pensiOns housed in

tours around the regiOn.

There are a number Of boat trips which run l[oln Hania and take yOu tO the nearby isiand of Agia・ 「 heodori and the east coast of Hania Bay.The tours include swiinnling

restored Venetian buildings.

and snOrkelling.

sollis can be lound a10ng the strip Of beach that runs west ofthe toヽ vn centrc.

`「

he western end ofthe harbouris a good

place tO 100k but it can be noisy at night.

Most hOtels in tOwn are Open all year.Re―

One g00d COmpany iS StaVrOS CruiSeS(●

094914045)that ofiers full day cruises う rOrn Hania for 6000 dr;children under 10

Places to Stay_Budget

travel■ ee_

CalmIPing The nearest campsite is lα

Special Events ln addition to the religious and histOrical events that are celebrated thrOughout the is_

″Jα εα″P′″gr● 3ノ ′θめ,3km west OftOwn On ・ he site is shaded and has a the beach. 「 ・

restaurant, bar and nlinilllarket. rake a

Kalamaki BCach bus(every 20 minutes)

land,the tOwn ofliania cominemOrates the

nrOnl the SOuth― CaSt corner of Plateia 1 866

Battle of Crete with athletic cOlmpetitions,

and ask to be let off at the canlpsite.

HANIA CES TO STAY 3 Pension Lena 4 Pension Nora

Plム

5

Hotel Pala2ZO

8 Pension Thersa 10

Maria Roorns

15 Amfora Hotel

16 Apa“ ments Anastasia 17 Rooms to Rent lrini 18 Casa Delfino

45 Anaplous 49

Tholos

53

Suki Yaki

55 Tsikoydadiko 56 Synagogi 57 Ela

62 We‖ 6イ

I

77

20

Nostos Pension

C)THER

22 40 41

George.s Pens[on Monastiri Pension Kastell

14

48 Vranas Studios

7

of the■ urk

Market Tavernas

8ougatsa Hanion

Fagotto Ja2z Bar

13 Angelico Cafe Street Club

51 Rooms Aphrodite

24 George Chaica‖ s BookshOp

71

25

Hotel Kydon

79 Diana Rooms PLACES TC)EAT

2 Mano Cafe 6 Adiexodo

21 Tamam 23 Cafe‐

31

Eaterie Ekstra

Foiezza Restaunnt&Bar

2フ

Point Music Bar The Antiques Ca‖ ery

28 Ariadne 30 Four Seasons 43 Apostolos Pahtikos 44 81ue Adventure Diving Centre

46

Rudi's Bierhaus

47 ()inohoos

33 Aposto‖ s Taverna

50 Laundに tte

34 Hippopotamus 35 Dyo Lux

52 1deon Antron 54 Mount Athos

36 Cafe Crete 37 Doloma Restaurant

61 Laundに te

38

39

Kariatis

To Karnagio

65 66

Buses to Souda Credit Bank

67 The Came

68

8uses to Western Beaches

69 70

EC)T Studio 2000

72 National Bank of Gに

73 74

ece

ANEK Lines Minoan Lines

75 Post Omce 76 0TE フ8 Bus Station 30 Alpin Travel

81 01ympic Ai“ ′ ays 82 E()S

83 War Museum of Chania 84 Historical Museum and Archives

THINCS TO SEE

4 Hand Monument 9 Naval Museum ll ■op Hanas Carpet Shop 12 Carmela's Ceramic ShoP 49 Roka Carpets 26 Mosque of the,anissaries 29 Hania District Association of Handicrats shOwЮ Om

32 Venetian Arsenal 42 Ancient Kydonia

58 Aに haeological Museum Folkloに Museum

59

60 0■ hodox 63

Minaret

Cathedral

114 Kydonia ProVince― Hania

口)。 matia lfit's character you're an‐ et you g′ もP′ ″ siο ′ can'tdo be・ er than(FI′ ο rl・ 88 “ old ι′ ′ οン 3の ,in a 600-year‐ 7ノ 5, Zα ″ι ith antique furniture where hOuse dotted、′ singlcs/doubles with shared bathroorn cost

3500/6000 dr.ROο ″s′ οR`″ ′I′ J″ ′r● 93 ′′ ο″〃 haS Clean,Simply ′ 。ヵ oν 。 9θ 9,rzι ο ninnished doubles with privtte bathroomお r 7000d■ Thrcc storeys ofantiquc― furnished rOOms in a creaky。 ld hOuse make PI′ ″sFο ″ g′ あ′″ the most sa r● /グは 92798,И ″ ′ =″ `′ atn10spheric pension in Hania.Even if you don't snag a roorn with a vieヽ v,there's al―

、ア ays the stunning vista彙 om the rooftop terrace.Roorns are 6000/9000 dr. Located in a restored・ urkish building, ― αρ′ ″ Nο ′ P′ ″s′ ο クbx 72 225,動 rOわ `ο ′οンあ″6の haS iarge rOOmS tttraCtiVely Out― vith Cretan rugs, iron lanlps and itted 、 I｀

´ 4ikis wOOden furniture. 「 he cOrnposer ヽ ´ rheOdOrakis reputedly lodged in one of them、 vhen he was a soldier.In an unusual arrangernent,cach roorn has its OWn locked tOilet/shOwer cubicle in the hall.Roorns are

6500/10,000 dr、 vith this version of private m.1、 こ earby is the nriendly Pι bathr。 。 sο ″〃 which has z′ ″αr・ ∂6∂ 6θ ,R′ ′

for 7000/9000 drin an old´

I・

″s′ 。″ rooms

urkish building.

λ ο″ JP′ ″ s′ ο ″r● 5イ 77α ИgMα ′ ル 「ο″αs″ ′ ノ 〃 hぉ a grett seting right next to the ruins

Ofthe MOni Santa Maria de Miracolioco in the heart Ofthe old kastelll.Rooms are sim― plc、vitll shared bathroorns but sorne have a

´

sea view. rhere's a cOnvenient cornnlunal kitchen for preparing rneals.I)ouble roonls are fair valuc at 6000 dr、 vith shared bath‐

″ο″ ρ

3′

352,ヵ

JJ′ θ〃,on Kalamaki,

is a new hotel、 vhich oflers sinlple but large

idges and balconies across thc road flonl tiny SWiinrning coves. The rOOfLterraCe bar/dining rOOm haS a VieW ofthe sea and there are stores nearby to piCk

roorns with telephones,1‐

up supplies.Any local bus to Kalamaki will drop yotl in front of the hOtel. Itoorns are

5000/8000 dr except in August when prices are 5096 highen

Places to Stay― Mid‐ Range Mixing Venetian sり le and modern ixtu“ s′ ο ″r・ 9イ AIο s″ sP′ ″

ア イα′2χ 5イ

s,

5θ 2,Zα ″―

ろ ′ ο イ2_イ 6り is a 600‐ year‐ old building `′ “ which has been nlodelled into Classy split‐ level roorns/units,all with kitchen and bath‐

room.Try to get a room in iontお rthe view Ofthe harbOur.Iヽ 。Orns are 12,000/18,000 di Just outside the old town,on a pedestrian street at the westerll end of the old harbouち α ο r奮 9,227,.ヵ χ 93229, 〃οた′Pα ′

ο ′ οツ 5り iS a reStOred manSiOn 動′ο′ οん ′ο“ “ iron balconies and wooden 、 vith wrOught ´

shuiers. r'he pine_■ 00red rooms have air― cOn,lridges,safes and telephones,but there's no elevator.Prices are 9000/11,000 di

降α″ shz″ οs r雷 χ 586ノ ∂,И g D`物 “ a lively pedestrian street and has ノの is on `ら

spacious, inl■ laculately― maintained studios

with kitchene■ es.All roorns have polished ′ and telephones 、 へ 00den lloors,balconies,Tヽ ′ and you can have air― con for a supplernent. Prices are 1 7,000 dr for August;figure on at least 40%less any other tinle.()n the quietet

e6tem end Of the harbOur,`α s″ 〃′r● 57 α″ ο39 hasrooms br θjZノ axイ 5,ノ イ,κα″ιν

rOOm.Ifyou wantto hop straight out of bed and onto an carly rnorning bus bound forthe

8000/9000 dr and renovated apanments with

Sarnaria Gorge,the best roorns around the ″αRο ο″sr● 978∂ & bus statiOn tte at D′ α

high ceilings,white、 valls and pine lloors,lor

αiグ P Kα′

.The light,airy and Clean

rOorns are '3〃 5000/7000 dr with private bath‐ rooms.Atthe sけ Ish И′α′″′″なИ″αs′αs" .′

pο ν あ′ 2〃 Well‐ οたο イ6 5∂ 2, 7物 ιο′ r● equipped studios cost 10,000 dr. Rο ο″s α′の hastwo― ο″′ r● 576θ 2,И g Dι た И′力′ `ι persOn apartments for 8000 dr,and double rOOrns with shared facilities lor 5000 diレ

α

16,000 dr to 20,000 dr depending on size. There's no TV ortelephone,but solme rooms have attractive views.

Places tO Stay― 'Top End χ27ノ θ5, 27′ θα ′ン ονι″@ο r′ ″ι′gり on Akti ′ノ ノ ′ο″′

″ο r奮 Pο ″ο ,そ ″′ z′ α

`“ Enosseos at the harbour's eastern edge,is a

stylish and comfortable hotel offering large

con.The

7o ′οン'I′ κα″″ レαr● 95′ ∂3ο ″989ィ θ,S`′ 」

rooms with TV,telephonc and air‐

has a range Of r00ms staning with a■

light nresh decoratiOn is cheernul and there's

ract―

s′ ′ ively furnished dOubles for 8000 dr./4■ α

an interior garden for relaxing. Prices are

KydOnia ProvinCe―

Hania l15

18,000/24,000 dr and include a buffet

Places to Eat

breakfast. Information On the hotel can be found at 、 v、v、 v.aegean.ch/hOtcis/portoven/ portoven. И 力′ α Hο r′ ′r雪 びα 9322イ ″26,Pα ″ α― グοS Z力 “ οοわたο ′οあ″の iS Hania'S mOSt hiS‐

E)ining a10ng Hania's scenic harbour has an undcniable appeal and the restaurants aren't bad,but the price‐ quality ratiO is 10、v.´「 】he best(:〕 retan tavernas are housed in rO。 ■ess

torically evocative hOtel.It is located in an

｀enetian ruins scattered in the streets of Splantzia and the C)ld.I｀ 0、 vn. Halidon is a

ilnrnaculately restOred Venetian mansiOn

good place tO grab a snack.

With roorns arOund a cOurtyard.´ here's no elevator and nO air‐ con butthe r00■ ls are el‐

PIaces to lat― Budget

egantly decorated and sornc have views of thellarboun Frontrooms can be nOisy in the

`′ arc good places to seek out traditiOnal cui‐

suinmen Rooms are 16,000/20,000 dr in‐

sine.´ heir prices are almost identical.1lζ

cluding bu資 iet

can get a solid chunk Of swOrdfish with

I｀

The tWO reStaurantS in the.ル ο″″α′ ル I｀

breakfast.

Ou

″ο″月b′ ′ ′r雪 522∂ θ,ノ aχ 5′ 79α ι ″α〃 均′ ′ 力″∴ P′α′ ααた″ブ zο わ〃 is りあ ″@ι みαi力 ″

chips lor 1200 dr.More adventurous eaters can tuck into a bowl of garlic_laden snail

Slick:,n10denl and cOrnfbrtable.1｀ `“

rooms are sOundproofand have satellite TV, 彙idges,safes,hairdiyers and modem p。 ■s.

and potato casserole fOr l100 dr. For a treat try the excenentろ ο′ gα rsα ゥ′ ″ ′ (側 O paStry■ lled With iocal myzithm cheese)

Thcre's air‐ con On demand plus l・ ee parking.

at 3ο

Prices are 28,000/33,000 dr including buniet

“ slice costs 500 dr and cornes sprink:led with

breakね st. 口 (5]α Sα D`ウ C″ οβ ' 93

he carpeted

gαsα Zα ″′ ο ″

′οbЮ ″ο″ 3ク .A

“0(′ 71カ ′ Suga■ iイα ″οGり οわたο ρο′あ″ 62,iS a tiny plaCC and haS Very little Seating,

a li■ le

θ 98,ノ χ96 5θ θ ι ″α」 ′ α a′ ′ α ″ ′ 力 ″σ 賜ι q力 ″ ο霞 力 @ι 力 `“ 17th‐ cenmry mansion,ta_ ク,a modemised 『 tures a splendid courtyard Of traditionally 1´

,

patterned cObblestones and 19 individually decorated suites.All have air_cOn, satellite

but of〕 lers

goOd value breakfasts and snacks.

It's opcn 8 anl to midnight daily.

Dο わ″α′ω″″′ gο ″め,an un― α″′ αた′ pretentious restaurant, is `κ ha11■

hidden amid

TV,telephones,hair diγ ers,minibars and

the vines and loliage that surrOund the out― door terrace.It's a relaxed spOttO escape the

sats.Some suites have jacuzzis and busi‐

cro、 vds

ness travellers 、′ ill appreciate the n10dern

ports. I)oubles are 35,000 dr and a huge palatial split‐ level apartment, 、 vhich sleeps up to four people,costs 66,000 dr including

Saturday.

Places to Eat一 Mid‐ Range 勤 κα′ g′ ο ″ ′ ″α ′ κα′ α′ θ力αた′の iS On

buffet breakfast.

Nea Hora The best t■ ure ofDα ″αOs r● 96 θ2′ ,′ 96θ 22ソ ,on Akti Papanikoll in Nea I-lora,a“rather bland,inOdern hOtel,is its lo― CatiOn acrossthe road iom Nea Hora Beach.

The functiOnal rOOms have balconies and telephones_Prices are 14,000/16,000 dr for an inside/seaviev/r00rn.

The well― kcpt P′ ″sfο ″ f″ιο″ r雪 7θ ′,2/′ ′〃,On Patriarhou loanikeiOu One block in lrom the beach,is a fliendl)′ place

charging 6000/10,000 dr.

The modem Rο ο″sS′ お″

and the traditiOnal cOOking is fault‐

less.It's open 7.30 pnl to l anl Monday to

r奮

757∂ 5,

`′ И″′Pο′α″′ たο″〃 haS a taVema doWnstairs

'α offavOurite restauト evcウ ′ Hanian's short list ants.Its sprawling outdoor teln・ acc near the

harbour nlakes it appealing tO tOurists but it

has not sacrinced one、 vhit of authenticity. It'S Open nOOn t。 l anl daily.(ラ 14′ υl]α ′ ι ′ Jι Eル Sr″αttα ″ら ′ ′ ′ ο′砂 iS a■ iendly,casual

eateり located right in the hea■ of Hania's bustling old town but the cOOking is a lnod― ern take on traditional Cretan dishes.There are good― value set price rllenus and the un―

usual salads are excellent.It's open 8 anlto

10 pm daiVル を′ ′グ ルι ′ ルR`S″ ′ α″′浅

=″ Bα ′βαψαた ノ〃 。CCupieS a brmer“Steam

bath fiOm the 19th Century.1ヽ 10tiCC the CarVed

and sirnple, pleasant rOOrns with balconies

relief(of lstanbul on the marble fOuntain.

and air― con

Owned by a British woman,the restaurant

for 8000/12,000 dL

116 Kydonia Province-lHania

features inOuth‐ watering Middle Eastern く ¨〓 く 〓

specialties.It's open 6.30 pm to lnidnight VVednesday toヽ 4onday. With four crumbling walis and no roof, α 3り has neverthelcss /″ α P′ ο s rstヵ た achieved “ a surprising stylishness with a tw

И ar― ο′5,provides a richly ο″οr71カ θοわたο νο″′ sttisfying meal.Locals come hereお r the daily.´ 「 he back‐ to― basics cuisine at

(″

￨′

fOod and the live nlusic on surniner nights, packing the tablcs inside and outside on the

narrOw pedestrian street.It's open noon to

traditional Cretan dishes and thc occasional

3 pm and then 7 pm to midnittt daiv ′ ヽ Ou nlay hcar the strains ofltalian opcra ο力αた′′〃 emanating iOm Fα ′ Fs rκ α′

guitar playing.It's open 7 prn to l arn daily.

even before you come to"′thc wide outdOOr

s In the quieter eastern harbour,/4′ S′0′ ′ 'ο 2″ ar″ α僣〕 ″οSι οSの iS a goOd addreSS fOr ice is lriendly ish and Cretan dishes. Selい ′

patio.´ he Greek dishes are standard butthe

and eficient,there's a lgood wine list and you get a view over the harboun lt's open

tO lτ

strategically placed urns and sorne potted

plants.A subdued crowd comes here for

noon to midnight daily.

Allthe usual suspects ofMexican cuisine

￨″ α― Pο Pο ′ グο″αの.A relaxed hang― out,it ″s β′ フ」 “ attracts an asso■ ment Of yOung,SCruffシ

are preSent and aCCOunted fOr at″ lα

types that cOme fOr the ever― playing Latin nlusic as well as the food.It's open noon to midnittt daily.

Locals ind most101d Town restaurants too

″ tounsty but iル ″α

ο″イカ haS in― (Zα ″b`′ ′

spired a loya1 lollowing anlong the trendy set.Housed in。 ld′ rurkish baths,tllis atmOs― pheric place presents a superb array ofvege― tarian specialties.It's open 7.30 pnlto l am

daily.Dating■om the 14th century,the build‐ ″ι α″ イ〃 WaS irSt a SOap ing Of E′ α 夕′ lο

facto「

y,then a school,distillery and cheese‐ `κ

「

pizza and pastas are well above aVerage. It's Open lrOrn noon to 3 prn and then 6 prn lidnight daily.

Places to lat― ■op■ nd οgね ″ (2々 ,Pα ― Most people consider И″′ ″ ο ′ f2θ Ⅳ α〃ο α ″ Jた ο , り the best seafood ρ lθ

restaurant in Hania.The nsh is sO■

esh it's

practically wiggling on the plate and the ac‐

´ cOnlpaninlents are superb. 「 he light airy restaurant opens onto the seafiont road giv― ing you a great vicw ofthc sunset.It's open

7 pm tO midnittt Mondtt tO Saturdtt The ″′ わ′ ′ 々 rustic decOr at Zα ′ o/7′ 'Papα baCkdrOpお",r M`α 〃 ″ ″ makeS a pleaSant α (■ Sh excellent seafood_Try “ theた ク物 ツ′ iο

SOup)and WaSh it dOWn With One Ofthe restaurant's good local wines.It's open noon to 3 prn and then 7 pm to nlidnight dally.

」 ゴ α′ dο ″ 2の ,an elabOrate S“ ■′Iタ ル ・ hai restaurant,offers an intriguing

(1)hinese‐

I｀

`〃

prOcessing plant.Now it serves up a well‐ executed alTay of Cretan specialties while

change from Cretan food.The menu is

local rnusicians create a lively anlbience on

under an ancient plane tree.'There's also an

surnrner evenings. It's open noon to l arn

extensive winc list of local and inlported

varied and you can eat in the courtyard

tury and iooks it but its crunlbling roofless

、′ ines.It's open noon to nlidnight daily in ・ thc heart of the old urkish district of

、 valls create a strangely beautifill interion

Splantzia.

daily.´rhe building dates lrorn the 14th cen‐

・

r'he ifish dishes are g00d but the special― ′ οs“ gブ αDθ たα3の iS meat・ The ity at rヵ 。

I｀

Entertainment

restaurant prides itself on its cooked― to‐ order steaks and tender baby veal.It's open

Cafeダ Ba“ Funkyrockandrolljointsplay

nOOn to midnight daily May to(Dctober. bι ′ ン3〃 haS all the ■蔵ο ッ′α″ルο

but there are also some cosy spots brjazz, light rock and Cretan music.When Hanians want tO party the night away in a disco, they're likely to head out to Platanias, a coastal resort about llkm west of Hania. fα ′ αgο ″2の iS a rOugh‐ and― C″ ″ C″ ready joint`″with a decorative scheme that “ ing nlachines seゝ ′ relies on saヽ vs,pots,old

trappings of a tourist“trap'οincluding a tout `Zα

outside ready to hook all passers‐

by and the

dreaded `international' lood. 13)espite all

that, the klitchen turns out honest(Cretan c。

。king

and the r。

。ness

plant_■ lled interiOr

is a delight. It's open noon to nlidnight

the donlinant role in Hania's nightlife scene

KydOnia PrOVinCe―

and aninlal heads,but it's the best place in

Hania tO hear live Cretan inusic. If they don't bring their o、 vn lyra,10cals、vill reach for the instrurnents that line the、 ス /alis once

they've had a cOuple of drinks.Beware the たα″,α た」 α.It's open 6 pnlto l am daily. In the middle of busy,tOuristy Halidon, I″′ ο″И″″ο″ √ α′ ノ αο″2の 。価erS a mOre sophisticatcd atnlospherc 、′ ith discreet `′ nlusic and a garden seating.It's open noon to inidnight daily. Black― and‐ whitc

phOtOgraphs Of jazz

gcats line the wans of Eα

g。 ′ ′ 。J″ β″′ ′ οン ′の.It'S hOuSed in a restored “

Hania l17

属ο″rS′ ο″S“ た″ 乃″らαz′ 29,a rock bar on the “ harbout attracts a fashiOnable

group Of yOung Hanians. The harbourside terrace is always full and the atmosphere is iendly.It's Open 10 anl to l anl daily. fi・

lf Che Guevara was alive and in Hania, he'd feel at hOme in this`altcmative cat', Dッ OZ“κrSIα′ グο″αJ.Thc music is Lain ′′ American,thcre's plenサ of reading material ofa counter‐ culmrai nature strewn abOut,and the cOsy seating is perfect fbr pl。 ■ing revo― lutions.It's Open 10 alm to midnight daily.

｀ ienetian building and Offers the sm00th ν “ sounds ofjaa and light rock.Sometimes

_ Austrian Rudi Riegler packs R″ ″F's3′ ′ ′ ″α″S`Slカ カα2の ,a tiny bar With ine Bel― gian g″ た′′ θた s as well as other `s and alsO serves sorne ofthc excellent`′beers.Hc

thcre's a live jazz group in summen it's

beSt nleZedcs in toヽ vn. It's open 6 prn to

open 7 pnl to 2 ani nightly.

rnidnight Monday to Saturday. ζ Ioused in a rOOfless ヽ enetian building that WaS OnCe a SynagOguC,Sy″ α gοg′ βん ο― ′,ノ ,seⅣ es up■ eshう ruit juices,comee,“

I″ gι

Pο ′ ″′

S′

C Fα ′{Sο ン ″ ″′′ ′″ iS a goOd

rock bar '71″ for thOse allergic to tcchnO.When the intCriOr getS Stcanly you can cool ofF on the lst n。 。r balcony overl。 。king the har_

bour.It's open 9.30 pm to 2 am nightly.

On thC WatCrfrOnt,И ″ g′ ′ たοCα μ rκ

ο″οン 万ο″5り plays rock music at a

volurne that renders conversation possible only for lip readers but you can escape to the OutdOOr terrace.It's open 8 anlto l arn dally.

1‐

drinks and snacks.´

「 he stone and wOOden in‐

terioris stunning and there's a good sclcction

of rock nlusic playing in the background.

Discos Most people head out to the sizzling nightlife at Platanias but if yOu want to party in town,takc the irst narrow

passage on Halidon next tO the Hania

・ 「 he cave― like interior of.Si′ ′′′r c′ ″う た′ 」κOン ″′ 0″ :0′ 」5〃 On the harbOur iS filled ヽ Vith the SOunds of soul and Latin “ nlusic.Sundays at n00n a guest I)J arrivcs

Exchange Bank and you'1l cOme tO Hania's nlain discO, iriヵ ι (,α ″, 、 vhich is iocated juSt O∬ HalidOn.The “ Crowd runs'om 18to 21 and the music is deep house and techno.

to play the n10st recently released tracks. It's open ll am to l am daily.

It'S Open inidnight to 5 am nightly.

7・

2ソ

Formcrly a discO,И ′ ′ α″″ 1た ′ ′:ゐ ″ιαzノ haS taken On a SleCk ncw `レ iook and no、 v

uses its excellent sOund systern to play a va―

ricty of music.Usua‖ y there'sjaz.early in the evening and rock later on. There's a 、 vlde range Of beverages on ofner and sorne

Shopping Iania ofllers thc best cOnlbination of sou‐ Venir hunting and shopping for crafts On the island.The main street is IIalidon,which is I―

inlpossible tO avoid since it cOnnccts the inner tOwn with the harbOur.

illezedes.It's Open 10 anlto l am daily. Fο ″′ZZα `0′ グ 〃α″ bο ン リ, a Cat/bar/

・ 「 herc are nO great shops on Halidon but there are several international bookshOps

restaurant installed in the old Venetian ralm‐ paHis,is the best place in tO、 vn 10r a sunset

and newsstands.The streets in the ilmmedi―

drink. A free barge takes you acrOss the water nrom the bottonl of sarpidona to the Seaヽ VallヽVrapping arOund the harbour.Frorn the rOOftOp bar, there's a splendid vie、 v Of the ienetian harboun lt's open 10 am to l am da‖ y Aprn to OctobeL

fering souvenirs,photo supplies, pOstcards ienizelou a10ng the harbour and the like.El｀ ν has the Odd genl hidden an10ng the cafes. ZambeliOu,1・ heotokopoulou and Angelou in the inner harbOur are where the s11lallet nlorc interesting shOps are. Skridiof is

ate ViCinity Of HalidOn are Very tOuriSty,。

F

118 Kydonia Province― Hania

`leather lane'with good quality handnlade boots,sandals and bags.Whether or not you are self― catering you should at least feast

Getting There&Away Air 01ympic Airways has at least four nights a day to Athens which cost 19,800 dr

fOr the afternoon■ ights and 13,400 dr for

your eyes on Hania's magnincent covered foOd nlarket; north of Gianari between

the late evening flight.′

Plateia Holtatson and Plateia Markopoulou

nights a weck to Thessaloniki(29,900 dr).

it nlakes all other food nlarkets look like

The Olympic Airways ofncc(雪

stalls at a church bazaa■

at・

・ 「 here's also an outdoor rnarket Saturday

I・

rhere are alsO t、 v。

57701)is

zanakaki 88.Air(]reece also has daily

flights to Athens for about the sanne price.

momings■ om 7 am to 7 pm on Minoos

Aegean Airlines has two daily nights to

street where you can pick up fruits,vege―

Athens(16,500 dr)and one to・「 hessaloniki (28,100d→ .Their oficc(● 63366)is a the

tables,local products and cheap clothes.

Carmela's Ceramic Shop(Angelou 7) produces ceranlics using ancient techniques and also displり S unusual jewellery hand― cranled by young(3reek artisans.

airpO■ .The airportis on the Akrotiri Penin‐

sula,14km iom Hania. Bus Buses depan i[Om lHania's bus station

｀ Y4ou can watch Mihailis weave his won‐ drOus rugs on a 400‐ year‐ old loom at Roka

for the following destinations:

Calpets(Zambeliou 61)using methods that

Destination

Duration

lraklio

2)ウ

have renlained essentially unchanged since MinOan tinles.Prices bcgin at 8000 dr for a

sinall rug.Top Hanas Caipet Shop(Angelou ″s(nat― 3)specialises in old Cretanた ,′ ′

WoVen rugS)that Were traditiOnal dOWry ginis;prices start at 30,000 di

T'he elllbroiden/, weaVing and CeramiCS are well― executed at Hania lDistrict Associ‐

atiOn Of Handicrais Showroom (Akti Tombazi 15)but the sculptures of Greek

Hora Sfakion Kaste‖

Fare

Frequency

hours 2910(〕 dr half― hourly

2 hours

140C)dr

3 a day

i‐

Kissamos

900 dr 600 dr

Lakki

15 a day 4 a day

Moni Agias Trladas

Omalos

30 mins l hour

400 dr 1250 dr

3 a day 4 a day

(for Samaria Corge)

nlyth010gical figures are unusually ine.At

Paleohora

2 hours

1450 dr

The Antiques Gallery(Akti Tobazl l)next

Rethymno

l hour

15(X)dr half‐ hourly

to the Mosque ofthe Janissaries,Inost ofthe stuffis too bulky to tuck into your suitcase, but,in addition to l[anled paintings and old

Sougia

2 hours

Stavros

30 mins

1400 dr 30C)dr

nurniture,there are nlore unusual odds and

Ferry Ferries lor l‐ Iania dock at Souda, about 7km east oftown.There is at least

ends dating to′

I｀

urkish occupation.

ApOstOlos Pahtikos(Sifaka 14)has been rnaking traditional Cretan knives since he

3 a day l a day 6 a day

One ferry a day for thc 10 hour trip to/金 oin

Piracus.ANEK has a boat nightly at 8.30 cc(● 27

was 13. You can watch hiin work as he

pmお r5900 dL The ANEK o“

matches the blade to the carefully carved

500)is opposite the food rnarket.Souda's p。 1■ pOlice can be contactcd on● 89240.

handle.The Owner at()inohoos(Sifaka 39) has arnassed a ine selection of([〕 reek and ([)retan wines,displayed in an appropriately

Cetting Around

reincd shop along with winc implements.

￢o′ Front the Airport There is no airpo■

Mount Athos(Kondylaki 12)o能 rs

bus and a taxi to the airport nrom the town centre costs about 3000 dr.

hand―

rnade icons butthe best deals are had on the handmade chess sets using igures i針 o:n G“ ek mytholo〔 y.Cttering to Cretan tastes

2000(Plateia Agoras 15)is a gOod place to

Bus Local buses(blue)leave forthe port of Souda fiorn outside the food nlarket;buses 10rthe western beachesieave ttom the main

pick up a、vide range of casse■ es or(〕

bus station on Plateia 1866.

for both popular and folk inusic,Studio I)s.

Kydonia Province―

Ca■ Motorcycle l& Bicycle iHania's car

hire Outlcts include Avis(雪 50 510), Tzanakaki 58;Budget(● 92778),Kariskaki 39;and Europrent(● 40 810 or 27 810), 1-Ialidon 87.Most nlotorcycle hire outlets are

on Halidon.

teЮ d try

arOund the main square.For domatia ιο″なr・ 6∂ ′ィリ,c10se to the beach and

OVer a SnaCk bat roorns cost 5000/6000 di There's also the hotel f'7′ ο χ′ ″′ αr●

イ∂5θ 2,

which is next to И″″αな Иノα′′ ″′ ″お r● 6∂

75o,both of which have rooms br

8000/10,000 di・「 he best hOtelin tOwn is the

AG:A MARINA l｀

Around Hania l19

he coastline 、 vest of llania is a non‐ stOp

strip of hoteis, dOrnatia, souvenir shops, travel agencies,nlininlarkets and restaurants.

´ 「 his is not the place tO cOrne ifyou're look_

luxuriOus resort ιο ′ s CI′ ′ ′ ″ Pl′ ′ ″ ``ss “α イ θ 6,θ ′ ′α ′ あωι 力 ρ ″ 7θ 2,′

@

=の “haS“a `〃 ο 力α ″ ′ 力 ′ θ r gり WhiCh SWimming tわ ″ po01, air― conditioning, tennis coull:s and a

ヽ Vater sports centre right on the beach.It has

ing nor a quiet, relaxing vacation, but the

roo11ls for 20,000/25,000 di Further iniand,

nightlife is g。 。d

200m iom the beach is И′g′ α″ Pα ′ α `′ 月lο ′ ι′r電 ,6266&.′ tr 62 6ィ ろ,which has aiト

and there are plenty of

ban_ks,travel agencies,and car rental outlets

a10ng the rrlain road.At about 9knl lrorn

Hania yOu Will enter thc town of Agia Marina which has many dOinatia on the rnain road.

The best accOmmOdation in tOwn is I″ α ″r力 οs И″α g′ И″α ′ ι ″rs r・ 6θ 66zヵχ `″ツ 6θ 72ム α 」 ′ガわS@Sο ε 力 α ′ カルα/を リ 力″ ヽ Vhich is `″ a large resort on a wide stretch Of

beach.It has a swimming pO。 1,ai卜 cOn, children's facilities and is wheelchair acces―

Sible. It has roorns for 17,000/23,000 dr. There'S alSO Sα ″″ Mα′ ′ ″αρ 6∂

6∂

57α ヵχ

57〃 in the centre oftOwn near a sandy

beaChヽ ″ hich has roorns for 13,000/18,000di Eο ′r雪 ∂ノこノ %χ 6∂ ,9〃 is asma‖

月レ″S

`′ beach`∂ hotel on the with air‐ cOnditiOning and

a swirnnling p001. It has rOOrns for 14,000/20,000 dr. For a goOd feed try ■イ α′′ αむR`sr″ ″′ α″′On the eastern edge of tOヽ

Vn WhiCh SerVeS Cretan and ヽ4editer‐

conditioned rOOrns with sea viev/,suites with

private swimming p001s,an 01ympic size swirnming pool, children's pool, tennis courts,racquetball cOuns,sauna and itness ´ centre. Roorns cOst 25,000/32,000 dr. 「 he beSt reStaurmt in the area iS″ ,′ οS On the rnain road.Even ifthe food、 vasn't as g00d as it is,it wOuld be wo■ h dining here fOr the

seting alone.The centrepiece ofthe restaur― ant is an old inour inill beside a p。 。11。 aded ´ With geese. 「 he surTounding dining rooms

are lush with plants,nowers,trees and vines leaving you with the sense of dining in the country rather than busy Platanias. The nightlife in Platanias is its main at_

traction.Fronl inorning breakfasts tO late night cocktails and dancing, s′ ar′ ′ `″ Cο ′ α〃浅 Dα″′″g Bα ′dOcs a brisk busi‐ ￨′

`″ ness,especially at night、 vhen the interior is

wall‐ to― ν /all with iocals and visitOrs. It's

ranean う 。Od On a plant‐ ■lled terrace. For

Open 9 am to l am Aprn to Octoben

nightlife,Patatrak Club is popular、 vith the 10Cal CrO｀ Vd aS muCh fOr the FnedieVal deCOr

a relaxed cOcktail bar attracts people of all

aS fOr its selection of(3rcek songs and its lo―

1970s and 1980s.It's open 7 pnato 2 anl.

υ′ ο P′ α ,

ageS WhO enJOy music fronl the 1960s,

cation right on the beach.

CERANl

PLA=ANIAS The next tOwnぃ .est

is Plataniasぃ ′ hich alsO

has a busy main strip and an old tO、 vn that spra、 ′ Is Over a steep hill on the sOuth side of the road..The streets ofthe old tOν vn are pic‐ tu“ sque but touristy;there arc great views

om the top.Atthe centrc Oftown a10ng the inain rOad is a large square dOminatcd by D′ ο lg`″ Fs restaurant next to a large super― fi・

rnarket.Banks and travel agencies are clus‐

The next resort stretch is Gerani which is lit_

tle nlore than a stretch of hOtels, dOrnatia, tavernas and sOuvenir shops,althOugh it gets rnore deserted On the western end.´ he best

「

hotel in tOwn is C″ ′′ α Pα ″ ″″s′ 題ο′ ′′

6ノ J′ 5,力χ 6′ ノ ′イ,a″ α′ ′ικ″α′@ ′ ′ναι´ ′ ブ ο′.力 ″″′ 力″ι′gり which has a swirnnling poOl, tennis courts, children's

ρ

Sα

playground and is On the beach.It has roorns

for 25,000/ 32,000 di

く )n a nlOre n10dest

120 Kydonia Province― Akrotiri Peninsula

The Cood Oil く︼ ２く 〓

Thel。 live has been Part of life in the eastern Mediterranean since the beginnings of civilisa‐ tion (Dlive cuitivati()n can be traced back about 6CX)01 years.lt was the farnlerS Of the Levant

(modern Syria and Lebanon)who first spotted the potential of theヽ ″ild European olive rC)′ ea θυ´ ορaea,一 a SParse,thorny tree that was common in the region.TheSe farmers began the process of selection that led to the more conlpact,thornless,oil‐

rich varieties that now dorn‐

inate the Mediterranean.

Wheに aS ancient r

mOSt WeSternerS think Of O‖

Ve Oil aS being iuSt a COOking O‖

,tO the peOple Of the

editerranean civilisatiOns it was very rnuch nlore. lt was almost inseparable from

civ‖ ised:ife

ltself.As well as being an irnPOrtant foodstuff,it w'as burned in lamps to provide ′ へ as blendedヽ ″ith essences to produce fragrant oils. estern Crete re― The Minoans were anlong the first to grow wealthy on the Olive,and i″

light,it could be used as a lubricant and it、

mains an impotant。 ‖ve_growing area,specialising in high_quanty salad。 ‖s.The regiOn's sho'vv plece,Kolymvari cooperative,marketS itS eXtra― Virgin Oll in bOth the USA(ハ オカθ′7a brand)and Britain(κ ydο ηた brand). Locals will tell you that the finest()ilis produced fronl trees groVvn on the rocky soiis of the

Akrotiri Peninsula,vvest of Hania.The oil that:s prized above all others,howeven eralο .rneaning‐ unripe,vvhich is pressed from green olives. is a`rο υ ■ Few trees out‖ ve the Olive.Sorne lof the fantastica‖ y gnarled and tWiSted o‖

ve trees that dot the countryside of western Crete a“ than 1000 years old.The tree known as de々 the rnountain village of Anisarakl―

more

aο 々 tOυ ra,in

near Kandanos on

the road from Hania to Paleohora― is claimed to be more than 150()years old Many olf these older trees are beingl cut

dOwn tO make way for improved varieties. The w'ood is burnt in POtters'k‖ ns and Pro‐ vides woodturners with the raw material to pro‐ duce the ultimate salad bowl for connoisseurs.

The dense yellow brown timber has a beau‐ tiful swir!ing grain 凸

level therc is И″ar● roorns lor 6000/9000 dr.

Ge

↓

凸

凸

凸

凸

凸

7357〃 which has

ng There&Away

Buses between Hania and Kastelli‐ Kissanos stOp in Platanias,Gerani and Agia Marina.

AKROT]RI P■ NINSuLA The Akrotiri(ak― tee― ree)Peninsula,to the east of liania, is a barTen, hilly stretch of

rock covered with scrub. There are a few coastal resolts,Hania's airport and a naval base on Souda 13ay.´ here are few buses and the roads ineander about inaking it a dif11‐ cult regiOn to expiore.It's a good place to I｀

凸

凸

凸

凸

escape the crowds,however,and the penin‐ sula contains a few interesting nlonasteries.

Monasteries lf you haven't yet had your lll of Cretan n10nasteries,there are three on the Akrotiri

・ The impressive 17th‐ century Moni Aigias Triadas was lounded by the Peninsula.

、4enetian rnOnks Jererniah and Laurentio Giancarolo.The brothers were converts to the()■ hodox faith.There was a religious school here in the 19th century and it is still

an active rnonastery with an excellent li‐

braly.The church is wOnh visiting for its altar plece as well as itsヽ 4enetian― in■ uenced

KydOnia Province― Stavros 121

domed facade.The monastery is known for its excenent wine,И gノ 。″′ α′ ″′ 蔵。.The mOnastery is open 6 am to 2 pin and then 5 to 7 pnl dally. Entry is 300 dr.The 16th―

century MOni COu:Vernetou(Our Lady of the Angeis)is 4km n。 ■h OfMoni Agias Tri‐ ada, at thc end Of an cxtrcnlely poor road

nling pool, sauna, fitness roonl, children's pool and playgrOund and babysitting service. Air― COnditioned roorns are 1 0,000/14,000 di

CelHling There&Al″ ay ThCre are SiX buses a day'om Hania(45

only suitable for 4WD.The mOnastery may

rninutes,700 dr).lf you're cOrning by car ,om Hania lollow signs tO the airport and

date as far back as the llth century at a time

then signs to StavrOs.

、hen an inland sanctuary、 vas an attractive ∼

renuge lrorn coastal pirates.The building it_ self is disappOintingly plain but the church inside has an Ornate sculptured Venetian fa― cade. It's open 8 arn to 12.30 pnl and then

KALハITHAS Iく

alathas is a tiny beach resOrt that cioses cOrnpletely in the winter ln the surn‐

do、 vn

4.30 to 7.30 prn daily and there is no adrnis_

rner the tv/o sandy beaches lined by pine trccs can flll up, but Kalathas rcnlains a

sion fec.This monastery is alsO still in use. Frorn MOni(〕 OurVernetou,it's a 15 ininute

preW plaCe tO Spend the day. If you'd like tO stay overnigllt there's

walk on thc path leading dOwn tO thc cOast

g′ ιもB′ ″ Cι ο″ ιИ′α″″ι″な 6イ θ ∂の at thC entrance to to、 「 11、 vith studiOs fOr 10,000 dr

to the ruins of Moni Kathc):iko.´

「 he nlonas―

tery,which has been in disuse for rnany cen‐ turies is dedicated to St John the Hcnllit、

vhO

`・ and″ar″ 二″ ″ α′′ ″ おρ

at the entrance tO the to、“vno

liVed in the CaVe behind thC l・ LlinS.・ hCrC'Sa 「 snlall pond near thc entrance tO the cavc ヽ vhose、 vater is believed tO be holy.()n the feaSt day of St John(7 0ctober),there'sa

tw И′ο″ο″ И〃α r・

festival hcre that bcgins、 vith a vigil the pre―

И′α′ ′ ′ ″ι ″な r●

Vious evening. 1-lis grave is at the end of a cave at the bottOm Of a rock staircasc.´

「 here

6ィ

η“

万 ,also

`ou could alsO 56,which has

dOubles/triplcs for 6000/9000 dr, or′4′ι α θ2,,a slllall hotel of only ten r。 。nls ri・ 69 θ

With roomsお r5000/8000 di EsP′ α″α″′ 6イ 253,υ なχ69∂ ′ の is an at‐

tractive t、 vo― stOrey structure

、 vith

a swirn―

ining pOOlthat has studios for 12,000 di

are three buSeS a day (eXCept Sunday)tO Moni AgiaS Triadas■ om Hania(400 dr).

Cetting There&Away

STAVROS

Kalathas.

Buses fronl lHania tO Stavros stOp at

● 0821 The village Of StavrOs is littlc n10re than a sca■ ering ofhouses and a fe、 ′ hOtels Iocated

50UDA BAY

bchind StavrOs Cove.´ ′ 「 he cOve is a narro、 へ strip of sandy beach dominated by a mam―

iargest and the pol1 0f entry if yOu come to Hania by ferry.´ heヽ ス enetians built a castle

n10th rOCkShelfthat SerVed aS a baCkdrOF'for a scenc in the nlovie Zο ″ bα ′ 力 ′θた. Un― `(1,″ lortunately thcre is no acconlinOdation near

at the entrance of Souda 13ay which they held onto until 1715,even though the・ rurks

the beach but therc are a Fev/ hotcls and dornatia On the rOcky OutpOst about a ki10nletre、 vest ofthe beach.ヽ 10u cOuld tryレ ′ α fl′

E′

αИ′α′ ′ ″′ ″な r雪 39ィ∂の which hぉ a

`″ SWilnnling p001 and apanments lor 15,000 dr,or the nearby 3′ ι3′ αc力 r・ 39ィ θィ ソ “ which has rooms fOr about the same price

「 here's alsOレ7α ″ 's И′ ′ αs r雷 ア イイ2ク which is a small hotel with a swiinining p001 0veriooking thc sea.」 tι α and is on a rOcky cOve.´

`」

Л【 ο ″′ 39 θ θムノ &χ ′ 95イ 〃。 価erS `●

a SWim―

The harbOur Of SOuda is onc Of Crete's I｀

had already seized the rest of the island. It

is now the sitc Of an unpOpular IJS naval base 、 vhich provokes frequent denlonstra‐ tions iOm Hania residents.

50UDA て 821 ● pop 5531 '(〕 he to、 vn OfSouda is uninteresting but may be unavOidable ifyou arrive Or leave Hania by ferry..1｀ he town sprang up 130 years ago 1｀

undcr the Turks but little remains iOm that

period. There are a wealth of services

(Georgioupolis

122 ApOkOronas Province―

including travel agencies,banks and stores

s。 ldiers、 vh。

although accorninodation and dining oppor‐

([〕

10st their lives in the 13a■

le of

rete are buried.Bcautinully situated at the

water's edge,the rows of white headstoncs rnake a moving tribute to the heroic de‐ fenders of Crete.The buses to Souda port that depa■ 1 lrom outside the Hania food

tunities are lilτlited.

Orientatlon&inforrnatlon

′ 「 he lnain street of Souda is 3 Septernvrious

which runs parallel to the harbour.´ he har―

rnarket on Gianari can drop you at the

bour opens onto a large square with travel agencies and cafes.The Bank of Greece is On the square and has an A「 M.At the poll: is a 24hr exchange rnachine. Also on the ′

ceinetery. lf you're corning by car frorn

F｀

I・

main square is Gelasakis

I｀

ravei Centre

lania rnake a lenl at inka superrnarket and ″αrestaurantヽ vhich ο′ turn right aierthe Pα ′ serves decent(〕 retan food on a shady ter‐ race overi。 。king,a beautinul cove. l―

which changes money,handles air and boat tickets and rents cars.It's open 7.30 arn to

´

he pOst Of■ ce is on 3 9 prn daily. septemvrious about loom right nrom the I｀

main square.The()TE is on the same street about 20m right iom the main square.

PrOVEnCe This nOnh‐ castern corner of Hania prefec‐ ture contains sonle of its lnore interesting

Places to Stay&■ at Right across iom the main square is II`,″

Apokoronas

′

Pα ″ ヵι″ο″ r● ∂92イ 5,which has doubles 」 ″

for 7000 dr.′ 「 here's also a taverlla dOWn― stairs that serves souvlaki.

Getting There&Away SOuda is about 7knl east ofHania.´「 hcre are

sights,such as the island's only 10・ lake,Iン

eshwater

ake Kournas and beach resolts such

as Kalives,AInllrida and Georgioupolis which are nlore intiinate towns than the re― s。 ■s

that spread west of Hania a10ng the coast.There's also the restored village of vlamOs and thc Turkish fortrcss at Aptera as

貴equent buses to Hania(240 dr)that meet ■e tries.There are also taxis(2000 dr).

、ell

AROUND 50UDA

GE10)RG10UPOLIS

as off=thc‐ beaten‐ track villages such as

Plaka and(1)avalohori. ^′

7est of Souda,there is an im‐ About lkmヽ ∼

● 0825 0 pop 608

nlaculate mi:itary cemetery, Where about

Although it is no longer the traveller's secret

1500 British,Australian and New Zealand

getaway that it Once was,Georgioupolis rc‐ tains thc navour Of an。 ld tOwn by the sca.

The Legend of the Lake Once upon a time there was no lake,just a village whose inhabitants fell out of favour with God. To set an eXample for

Its nlost attractive feature is the cucalyptus trees lining the residential streets that fan out fi・

onl the main square.

Loctted at the junCtiOn Of the AImiros River and the sea,(〕 eorgioupolis is a nesting

a lake and its naughty inhabitants into

area for the endangered loggerhead sea tur― tlc as well as hordcs of nlosquitocs in the

seaweed.()nly the virtuous and beautiful

summer.Georgioupolis was named after

daughter Of a priest was spared.(3od

Prince George,Hitt Commissioner ofCrete

turned herinto a fairy and her tears fed the

fionl 1898 to 1906,who had a hunting iodge

orning she waters olf the lake. Every rγう

here.In classicaltirnes it was known as Arn― phimalla and was the pOrt of ancient Lappa.

others,God decided to turn the vi‖ age into

ernerges from the lake cornbing her:ong hair and fronl her golden cup scatters seeds to feed the living things of the lake.

0)rientation&infor:nation The main st“ ct leads iom the highway to

凸

凸

the centre ofto、 vn and contains a nunlber of

Apokoronas Province_stavros 123

travel agencics,tavernas and services.く

eo Travel(奮 61370),On theね r side of the [〕

rllain square, is a g00d place tO change

mOnCy and rentヽ Vheels. It's open 8 anl tO l pnl and to 4 to 9 pnl daily March to

WhiCh haS WCll‐ maintained doubles fbr 8000 dr with a kitchenettc and ceiling fans.SOuth ofthe tOwn centre along the beach is IIlο ′ ′ ′ gο ″α 61ο ″ 6′ ′ イ〃 WhiCh iS a quiet plaCe

November.There's an ATM at the Hania

with three`奮floOrs Oflarge rOOms surrounded by nowering plants and palm iees.

Exchange lBank which is on the rnain road into town before thc nlain central square. There'S nO pOSt ofice or OTE but there is

1000 dr for breakfast.Also near the beach is

lnternet access at AIchemist Gi■ ShOp (‐

61732,email [email protected]),

ヽ′ hiCh COStS 900 dr for 25 nlinutcs and is ∼ open 8 anlto 10 pnl daily March to Novem― ber lt's on the leni side of the rnain road corning intO tOwn.There are t、 vo beaches,a

long narrow stretch of bcach sOuth oftOwn

Roorns are 7000/8000 dr with an extra

M″

α ″οS ρ 6′ 6θ ,WhiCh has air “ '″studios for 15,000d■ iFor more COnditiOned luXuiγ try P′ ′ ο′3′ αε″″ο″′r・

′Iχ

6′ θ θ2, ″αノ ′″わ′ @0た″′ムgフリ On the

6′

beach Outside '9Z′Oftown,with air_cOnditioning,

tennis cOuns and a swirnming p。 。i lor 21,000/28,000 di Outside GeorgioupOlis in nearby KⅣ

and a snlaller beach tO the n011lh ofthe river

ros there is anOther luxury reso■ ,E′ ′ ′ οs 3′ α

Things to Do ´

ming p001, tennis cOurts, children's play‐

I・

r雪 6′

he rnarshes surrounding the riverbed are

known fOr its、 vildlife,especially egrets and kingnshers which mig・ ate into the arca in April.At the fbot of the main street there's

ヽlellowbOat which rents pedalboats and canoes tO gO up the river where yOu can see tl111'leS,

2′ 〃,which

`カ has a swim_

ground and air_cOnditioned roorns fOr ″′ ″αs レ 41′ ‐ ィ′6/ィ ′7/ィ `6ο fの which `′ has beautifully■ lrnished r。 。 nls,a swimrning pool, children's pool, playground, ■tness 16,000/25,000 di lヽ Jearby is」

Jαgι

」ο″

r雪 て ヵχ 6′

Centre,sauna and tennis cOuits on tlle beach.

■Sh, birdS and ducks. Rental cOsts

2000 dr an hour per person_

Roorns are 16,000/25,000 di )n a n10re n10deSt SCale there is′4■ ′ ′ ハイ ″οS r● 6′ 22ム ノタ 6′ 2θ j:夕 ,a Snlall hotcl which has basic rOOrns on the beach and a Sヽ ′ iinrning p00i lor 10,000/15,000d■ ■イ ′ ′ (二

lα

Places to Stay (I)n the main rOad entering toヽ vn frο ′ V′ 力 ′′ノ ο― 」 ρ 6′ J万 ,ノ &χ 6′ θ″りhaS dOubles at‐ “ tractively furnished in pinc lor 10,000 dr

inCluding breakfast.At the bOttOm of the

main road,turn right and you'1l cOme to И′α″″ι ″な Sο′αr・ 6′ 32,,a tidy white building with blue balconies overlooking the

sea.Studios cost 10,000 dt AIso to the right of the nlain road is И″め,ζ Rο ο″sr・ 6ノ 39り which provides mOSquitO netS for guests.Double rooms with

a■ idge are 9000 dr and studiOs range■

′θ3,υヵχ6ノ

om

ll,000 drto 15,000 di Across thc strect is Zο ″ うαtt Rο ο″sr● 6ノ 6ノ θノ 砂 which hぉ roomsお r about

J∂ ノ ,ノ ax

the sanle price and a taverna dOwnstairs.・ 。 the len Ofthe main rOad iS Eg`ο ″r● 6′ ノ 6〃 、 vhich has dOubles lor 10,000 dr and studios rキ

lχ

lα

Mο ″′

〃ο″′作 6ノ 39θ ,ノ aχ 6′ 27り on a Of sand, has a swimrning “ p001 and air‐ COn fOr 10,000/15,000 dt

`B“stretch wide

,

Places to Eat

・ _ 「 he beStrnealin tOWn can be had at」 Flο s′ ′ ″ο″」 Rセs`α ″′ α″r、 vhich is signpOsted d。 、 vn a narrow alley tO the le■ as you cOme into

the town On the rnain road. The chef is happy tO explain the different varieties of fish on the rnenu,all of、 vhich are l[esh and eXCellent. It's open 6pnl to nlidnight daily

March to Novenlber.0」 口 lα ″ ′ s over100ks the river and also serves goOd seaf00d.」 E'″ ′ ′ : (51ο ι ル′ αゴ ′」 Bα ′ α″″ 」 RIιs′ α ″′α″r stretches along the beach and has a large swimrning ￨′

p001 open tO the public.

with flidge for ll,ooo dr. The nriendly omer,Polly,has installed ceiling fans and

SCreened WindOWS in the rooms.Nearby is κ′is″ ″αRο ο″sα″″Sr″ ″οs r・ 6ノ ′6り

,

■ntertainnlent ´ 「 here'S a liVely bar scene in Georgioup01is. S″ ″sι ′7レ ッ ι″ ″ on the nlain square is a

124 Apokoronas ProvinCe―

Around CeOrgioupolis

g=ο Pο ‐ popular place lor a drink and(1)ι ο″ “ り ′ presents live Cretan music ′ ′ s βlι αε ″」 iο

`′ iom 8.30 pm nightly in the summer There

are three discos-11“ `which is across the riveL」 P力 ′″ο″ι″0″ on the main road and ′VI′ ″lbο on the nlain square. ,′

ce

ng There&Away

There's a tOurist train that runs iom Geor‐ gioupolis to lし ake Iく ournas in the surnrneち but no other public transport.

KALiVES lヨ

P0825 e pop 175

Cetting There&Away

origina‖ y a farrning vinage,Kalives has

13uses between Hania and Rethymno stop on the highway outside Georgioupolis.

nOW beCOine a gOOd SiZed reSOrt●

LAK■ K(0)URNAS Lake KOurnas is 4km iniand iom Geor‐ gioup。 1ls and is a lovely, restn.11 1)lace t。 pass an aftern00n. It is about l.5km in di‐

arneter and 45rn deep,fed by underground 「 here's a nalrow sandy strip arOund the lake,but no beaches as such and you can Only、 valk l卜 vo thirds ofthe way around the ´ lakc. 「 he crystal‐ clcar water is great for springs.′

ぃ11■ nling and changes colour according to ヽ the season and tirne of day. r10u can rent pedalbOats and canoes lor 2000 dr an hour and visit the turtles,crabs,■ sh and snakes sヽ

that rnakc the lake their home. There are a nunlber oftavernas around the lake and a few sirnple places to stay.Try=″

ιαルイ 雪6′ 3“ ″ グレ′

` 66〃 WhiCh haSr00mS

with “ privtte bath for 5000 d■ On a hill over― ― α′ ′ ,ι ,ν И looking the lake there's NFcι レ :′ ″′ ″rs浅 ,″ ″οr・ 6′ 3ノ ,which has rooms 、 vith spectacular vie、 vs for 7000/9000 dr. ´ here are a nunlber of pleasant places to I｀

low‐ key

0『 lentation&Inforrnatlon All serviceS are located along the nlain rOad.´ 「 hc

POst Of6ce and the()TE are on

the main road and there's a bank.´ 「 he sandy

bcach stretches'oln the centre oftown cast to thc Iく lalives Bcach Hotel. VVcst of thc tO、

vn centre the coast is rockier and nlost of

the donlatia are located at this end.Iく l・

town and is a good place to rent cars, change nloney, find accominodation and book excursions throughout thc region.It's open 8.30 arn to l.30 prn and then 5.30 to 10 pm daily Aprilto Octobe■

Places to Stay&Eat There are sornc dornatia at the WeStern end

the lake.

tO、

age which

is a steep 5km up a hi1l overiooking the lake_

lt's a traditional village of white‐

washed

stOne houses and a couple of kafencia.

´ 「 here's no place to stay but you can gct a de‐ licious meal ofroasted meat and Cretan spe― cialities at 7を

ッ ″α」 irα ″ α″″α atthe end of `′

the village. As】 /Ou entcr the village there's an excel―

lent ceranlics shOp, run by friendly Kostas Iisakalakis,which sells exquisite vases and dishes at reasonable prices.

´

:alives

ravel Agency(つ ,31473)is in the centre of

OftOwn.Try″ b′ Ja

The lake is below Kournas Vi‖

OCated

snlalitown ambience.

′ ar, which is off the nlain road on the way to the lake and has a pleasant shady telTace. ο near the stop for There's also Lο ″″ο〃′ “ ′ ″′ ″J atthe turn offfor the tOurist train and二 ′ grab a rnealincluding the taverna bar"RI′

Iン

18krrl east of Hania On SOuda 13ay,Iく alives is pOpular with(3reeks on holiday as、 vell as intenlational guests.The toヽ vn is spread out along both sides ofthe nlain road and boasts a long sandy beach as well as an appealingly

r● 3ノ ,ノ リ,which has smalirooms、 vith a kitchenette,balcony and

scaview for 5000/7900 dr.Most people stay IIο ′ ι′ ッ′s 」 B`α 【′ ′ at the luxurious 」 `″ 25,′ ,3ノ ノJり atthe castem end of r● 3ノ ∂ lα

vn which has a fully equipped spa,an in― door and outdoor pool and air‐ conditioned rOOrns.It's Open frorn April to()ctober and costs 1 8,000/20,000 dr.For a good rneal on

″α Which ′ α7bν ′′ the seaside there's,PI′ 0ッ ′ has a lFlxed price daily nleal for 1800 dr in‐

cluding、 vine.Stop in at'1カ ιO′″3α l`′ )'in

the centre of toWn for scrunlptious cakeS and horne― nlade breads and biscuits.

cetting There&Away There are lour buses(tw。 。n weekends)dany

to Kalives iom Hania(45 minutes,500dr).

ApOkoronas Province― Around Kalives 125

AROUND KALiVES

Ainnirida

The village of Almirida lies 4km east of Iく

alives but it is considcrably lcss developcd

and thcre's the rcmains of an early Christian basilica atthe western end oftown.It'sa pOp_ ular spOt fOr、 ′ indsuring because Ofits IOng,

。Ver tWO hills that loonl over Souda 13ay. Founded in the 7th century BC,Aptera、 vas one of thc most inlpOrtant city‐ states Of ヽestcrn Crete and was continuously inhab― ∼ ited until it、 vas destroyed by an earthquake in the 7th century AI).

It came back tO life with the Byzantine

exposed beach. .There's only One rOad

reconquest Of Crete in the 10th century and

′ through tO、 、 n that runs along the beach.

becarne the seat of a bishopric. In the

here'S nO pOSt OfIIce or bank,but Flisvos Tours(雪 /fax 32 213),on the main road,will change mone■ rcnt cars,sc00ters and moun‐

12th century,the nlonastery Of St JOhn the ´ heologian 、 vas established; the recon‐

1｀

I｀

structed nlonastery is thc centre of the site.

tain bikes and is a g00d sOurce ofinforma_

The site is stili being excavated but you

tion.It's open 8 am to 2 pnlandthen 5to 9.30 prn daily March to Novernbe■ The best hotel in town is Lο ″′D′ ″′ ″αr・ 3′ 95の which has a pool,tennis cOun‐ s and excellent fbOd. Rooms are 17,000/22,000 dr including break‐

can sce Rornan cisterns,a2nd― century‐ lB([〕

fast.On a mOre modcst levelthere's Rο ο″s ′ 力 ′R“ ′R“ α″ ρ りatthe cぉ tm end Of tOヽ Vnヽ vhich has '73∂ roorns lor 4000/5000 di The beach road is lined with tavernas,」 Psα ′ οs

reek teinple and massive dcfensive walls. Atthe westem end there's a Turkish fOrtress, ([〕

built in 1872, with a panoramic view Of Souda Bay.The fOrtress was bullt at a tinlc when the Cretans were in an alinost constant state of insurrectiOn as part ofa large´ 「 urk― iSh fOrtreSS― building program. Notice the

Can WindSurf Or rent a kayak for 3000 dr an hOu■ Or a catanlaran for 6000 dr an hour.

`Wall of the lnscriptiOns'which was prOba― bly part Of a public building and was exca‐ vated in 1 862 by French archacOlogists.1｀ he Greck lVIinistry Of Culture is continuing to restore the site, installing signs and paths. 1｀ he visitOr's centre is next tO the car park

Plaka

adじ aCentto the monasterylt's open 8 am to 2.30 prn Tucsday tO Sunday,and distributes

has excellent ish and is open n00n tO mid‐ ´ night daily. 「 here'sa、vater sports centre (‐

32062)outside HOtel Dimitra where you

lf you have yOur O、 vn wheels it's a pretty drive up tO the village of Plaka.1｀ he wind― ing lanes and 10、 v― rise、vhite buildings are a

′ 、 、 orld awayうroin the tOurist bustle along the coast.with elderly nlen dozing in kaneneia

and a rnain square shaded by cucalyptus trees,Plaka offiers a glimpse ofa traditiOnal

Cretan farming village.Scenes iom Zο ″みα ′ 力 ιιたwere ilmed in the main square. `G″ Signs at the entrance direct yOu tO S′ ″― ″′ οS κο″■ο″′ο″sr● Jノ ノイ5,プ bχ J′ ∂7,. 1｀ he o、 vner Eva PapadonlanOlakas has gone

a helpful brochure and nlap in English.

´ 「 here are nO cafes or snack bars at the site but a few tavernas on thc 、 vay up there. 1｀

here's nO public transport tO the site.

VAMC)S

t'0825 ● Pop 618

1｀

he 12th― century village Of van10s, 26krn

east Of Hania,was the capita1 0f the Sfakia province from 1867 to 1913 and、 vas

south―

the scene Of a rev01t against・

to a lot oftrOuble tO create a typically(Clre_

「 urkish rule in 1896. It iS now the capital of the Apoko‐ rOnaS provincc.In 1995 a group ofvillagers

tan atnlosphere for her guests and has dec‐ orated her place with a variety of tropical plants and■ owers.There's also a r00f gar‐ den 、 vith panorarnic vic、vs Over the coast. StudiOs with kitchenettes cost 9000 di

way oflife of Vanlos,「 hey persuaded the EU to nund a renovation proり ect to show‐ case the cran‐ s and products of the region and deve10p a ne、 ′ kind oftourisin in Crete.

Aptera The ruinS of the ancient city of Aptera, about 3krn l″ est of Iく alives,are spread out

banded together tO preserve the traditional I｀

1｀

hey restored the。 ld stone buildings Ofthe

village using traditiOnal materials and cralRs

´ and turned thenl intO guest houses. 「 hey

opened stOres and cafes where visitors

Around Varnos

126 Apokoronas Province―

Ｃ〓 く〓

cOuld taste regional products and stagcd periodic exhibitions and musical evenings. 0『 ientatlon&info『

rnation

examples of Cα ′α″′″,which is intricatel光 vOrked silk lace.「Fhere is also a historical 、 vhich doculllents section of the nluseunl 、

up on thc rittt md the post omcc is on

retan stl■ lggles for independence.´ he nlu‐ seum is unrcliably open 9 am to 8 pnl daily and costs 500 dr. Another highlight ofa visit to(:lavalohori is the VVonnen's(loOperative which selis ex‐

Mariakaki, off to the right.

amplcs ofhandicrans mde by 10cal women.

As you approach on the rnain road fiorn Hania you'1l see the taverna,BIouinosin's cistern,on the right.The()TE is about 20m ´ he village I｀

square is 50m up ioin Bloumosin's Cis‐ tem.The tOurist ofice(奮 /ね x23100)is be‐ tween the taverna and the ()pening hours are the lel食 。 it is open you can change and book excursions here.

nlain square,on unreliable but if

rnoney,rent cars Their Web site can be found at ww.travel‐ grcece.conn/ crete/xania/vanlos.

It's nOt cheap(yOu'1l pay 25,000 dr br alace cona)but the qualiけ is excenent.The store is urreliably Open 9 am to 8 pm daily.´ 「 he cOOperative is on the main square;signs di― rect you to the nearby Folklore Museunl and ByZantinC WellS「 ヽienetian arCheS and I｀Ornan tombs about l.5kin above the village.

´ I｀

here are several tavernas around the

nlain square and,ifyou're interested in stay‐

Places to Stay&Eat The apa

I｀

(I〕

22 α′Sο ク `ル "″ a SmdiO. θ30 may be abletO aFange `● ′C″ α′ ο力ο′ ing,the cα ッ

mentS渡 3あ ″″οS:′ なα S″ ′″are

in old stone cottages and contain kitchens, ■replaces and´ rvs.The cOnages are decOr_ ated with traditiく )nal furniture and fabrics.

VRISS■ S t'0825

Most can accorn■ lodate up to four pcople but there's one two― bedroom co“ age that ac‐ commodates up to seven people.Prices are 25,000 drto 45,000 dr depending on size.In

Most travellers just pass through Vrisses,

addition to the guest cottages,BIournosin's Cistern serves typical Cretan dishes,and has αたοrο ,that is also a1l a■ gallery. a cafe,二 ′

not much to do here butthe rivers lν loutakas tO、 vn

οッο′ ο Ylou can buy Cretan products at if′ ″ ι ″ク″ιS′ οr′ 浅 Gι ″ α′S′ο′

can cool offin thc shade in onc ofthe river―

.

`′

Getting There&Away

・ here's a daily bus to Vamos lrorn Hania (45 minutes,600 dr). I｀

AROUND VAMOS ´ I｀

he village of Gavalohori,25km south― cast

ofHania,nlakes a pleasant stop ifyou're ex「 p10ring the region.The main atraction is the

Fo:klore Museum、 vhich

is located in a ren― Ovated building constructed duringヽ ienetian

・ rule and then extended by the Turks. 「 he nlain architectural feature is the st()ne arches

、 vhich divides the ground n。 。r ofthe house intO bedroorns, kitchen, a room lor a wine press and a storage r。 。rn.´ rhe exhibitsそ u・ e 、 vell‐ labelled in English and include ex― oodcarving, anlples of po■ ery, weaving, 、 ∼ stOnecutting and Other Cretan crafts.Noticc

30kin south― cast'om

Hania,on their way

to or frorn the south coast but this cool, pleasant tOwn desclves inore time.There's

and VrysanOs run through the centre of watering the giant plane trees along thc banks.When the coastis sweltering you side tavernas under the trees.Vrisses is a nlarket to、 vn for the region's agricultural products and is a relatively new to、 vn,dat‐

ing back to 1925.

0『 ientation&inforrnation Buses stop at the crossroads in the town

centre which is nlarkcd by a nlonurnent cOrnrnemOrating Cretan independence.Fol‐ lowing the inain street right across the river

takes you to tavernas,stores,a supermarket and the National Bank of([〕 reece、vhich has

an ATM. Following the inain street len, yOu'1l cOrne tO the post ofice and OTE about 100■ l up the road.

Places to Stay&Eat ′′ ″α々お The Only domatia in town is S′ ビ r・ 5ノ 2θ の

which is in the centre oftown

Apokoronas Province_Askifou 127

Imbros Gorge

and haS Iarge StudiOS for 10,000 dr.71を ッ′′ ″α gο ″J′s has average food buttables under 」 P′ ο

Like nlost Sfakian gorges, the lmbro,s

the treeS along the river.At the crossrOads in the tOwn centre,"′ ss′ s,物ツ is a mOdest establishrnent that serves excellent gノ ″ ο

(〕

pitas and yOghurt with honey which is a SpeCiali,Ofthe tOWn.

orge sheltered Sfakian rebels during the

Turkish occupatiOn. The Sfakians knew how to take advantage oftheir rnountain―

,

ous terrain which made them ettective fighterS against the Turks.ln 1941,12,000

Ge性 :ng There&Away

A‖ ied

su∼ ivors Of the Battle of Crete were

led to the cOast thrOugh the lmbros Corge and were under attack nlost ofthe way.

・ Om Hania to HOra SfakiOn that StOp at Vrisses(30 min― T'here are three buses daily l■

utes,400 dr).

凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

ASKIFOu ll'0825 0 pop 377 The road sOuth frOnl Vrisses takes you aCrOSS the War‐ tom plain of Askifou which ′ 、 、 as the scene ofone Ofthe inOst ftirious bat― tles ofthe(Elretan revolt of 1 82 1.The SfakiOt lorces triunlphed over the´ urks in a b100dy I｀

battle that is still recOunted in 10cal sOngs.

｀ Ylou can begin in the sOuth at the village of

Kornitades but mOst peoplc bcgin in the little n10untain village of lnlbrOs. :BOth places are used to gorge‐ hikers and have plenty of ininimarkets and tavernas to fuel up.There's nowhere tO stay in lnlbros village

butthere ae a tw domttia in Komitades.If

ヽ4ore than a century later the plain was the SCene of more strife as Allied troops rc― treated across the plateau towards their

yOu sta■ iom lmbrOs yOu'1l ind the"′ e11‐ marked entrance tO the gOrge next to a tav‐ ema,just outside lmbros village on the road to Hora Sfakion.The track is easy tO f01loぃ

evacuation point in HOra SfakiOn.´

「 he cen― tral tOWn Of the rcgion is Askifou which

aS it traces the streainbed past rockslides and

stretches out On either side ofa hill.The post

Komitades,■ Om which you can either walk Or ttke a taxito Hora Sね kion(5km).

'

ofnce is at the top of the hill

、′ ith a nlini

caves.The gorge path ends at the village of

inarket and several taverllas that rent roorils

おr5000 di Try 7レ ッ′ ′ ″αИs″ グ♭″r● 9529〃

or C′ ′ ο″′ ″οs r・ 952′ 〃 nexttO the bakery.

AS yOu drive through Askifou,one sign

a■ er another diκ cts yOu to the`m‖ itary mu‐

seum'(● 95289),which turns outto be the gun and military odds and ends collection of (1)eorgios I― Iatzidakis.The Sfakian is eagerto

shOw yOu arOund his collectiOn 、 vhich in‐ Cludes variOus a■ efacts iOm wars of the 20th centulぅ ′ . In the()ry it's()pen 8 anlto 7

pm Mionday tO Saturday.Admission is iee.

IMBROS GORGE The linbros Gorge, 57km south― cast Of I「

lania,is iess travelled than its illustriOus sis―

ter at samaria but just as beautiml.cy_ presses, holnl‐ oaks, ifig and aln10nd trees

grdua‖ y thin to just cypresses and Jeru‐

Getting There&Away

´ 「 here arc three daily buses fiorn Hania tO I―

Iora Sfakion that stOp at llllbros village

(1%hOurS,1100 dr).Buses iom Hora Sfakion to llania stop at Konlitades or take a taxi for about 2000 dr.´ 「 he gorge is Open daily all year.・ here is nO admission fec. I｀

Sfakia province ´ 「 he province Of Sfakia extends fionl the

(:)nlalos lPlatcau down to the southern coast and includes the lLefka()ri Mountains、 vith the spectacular Samaria Gorge.It is Crete's lnost rnountainous regiOn and the rnost cul‐ turally interesting.Sfakia、 vas thc centre Of resistance during the isiand's IOng centuries

salein sage deep within the gOrge.The nar‐ rOヽVeStヽ Vidth of the ravine is 2rn while the

of dOminatiOn by foreign pOwers,its steep

Walis of rock reach 300m.At only 8km the

br Cretan rev01utionales.The Sね kian peo‐ ple are renowned for their nghting spirit

linbros、 valk is alsO nluch easier on the feet.

ravines and hilis lnaking efllective hideavvays

128 Sfakia ProvinCe―

《 :)ma:os ´

Cretan Theology く一 〓く〓

he fresc。 。f the Transiguration on the south wallis pa■ icularly imprcssive.There r・

Sfakians have a reputation throughout crete for thievery, especia‖ y of livestock

and crops.Stea!ing sheep is such a Parl:of Sfakian culture that shepherds steal as much for sPOrt as for any financial gain.:n

is nOwhere tO stay in Meskla butthere is a ″りを'″ ι′ ο on the right as you enterthe town. ´ 「 he main road continues to the village of

Lakki(La‐ kee),24kin iom Hania.This un―

sp。 1lt village in the Lefl(a()ri aI1lords stun‐

fact,Sfakian pilfering of each other's proP―

ning views wherever you look.The village

eltly is the cause of rnost of the vendettas

vvas a centre of resistance during the upris―

that have decimated the region and is the

。V ng ioke: According to Other Cretans,God gave orange groves to the Hania people,Wheat insPiratiOn fOr the fO‖

tO the people on the Messara Plain,vine‐ yards to Kissanlos and olive groves to east―

ern Crete.VVhen it came time to provide for Sfakia, God only gave the Sfakians stOnes and rocks.But when the people de―

manded to know how they might survive On such barren land,God rePortedly an― ￨l over ″ered, I'Just 10ok around you!ノ ヽ s、

crete on the fine,ferti!e plains farmers are

working and cultivating produce―

all for

your benefit!''

ing againstthe・

I・

urks,andin WWII.κ ″ κ′ J―

;

θ822-67,ノ の has α″′浅 Rο ο R`s″ ′ “ cOmfOnable rOOrns "sr● for 4000/5000 dr with shared bathroorn, and serves good value meals.Across the street is R00″ ちル′R“ ′ ο′ αs rtt θ∂2′ -6723秒 which has rooms N′ ■ for about the sarne price. Both have mag‐ nincent views over the valley.

OMALOS l'0825

Most tourists only hurry through()malos, 36krn south of l‐ lania, on their way to the

Samaria(〕 orge but this plateau‐ town de‐ serves lnore.´ 「 he air is bracingly cool in cOnlparison to the stearny coast in the surn―

、 vhich,sadly,has turned against each other in the lornl of nlurderous fanlily vendcttas

that have depopulated many(of the region's villages.

Road to Omalos ´

「 he roadうronl llania to the beginning ofthe

samaria(Sa‐ ma‐ ria)Gorge is one of the n10st spectacular routcs in (I)rcte. It heads throり gh

orange groves to the villagc of

Fournes; there iS nOt nluCh there eXCept stores.A lel:fork leads to Meskia,twisting and turning along a gorge offiering beautiful

rner and there are sorne great mountain walks in the Frea.After the rnonling Sainaria rush, there's hardly anyone on the plateau except goats and shepherds.

0)rientation&lnformation Omalos is li■ le more than a tw hotels on

either side of the rnain road that cuts throutt the plateau.There is no bank,post Ofice,C)TE.ortravel agcncy and thc village ´ is practically desened in the winter. 「 he tOwn is about 4km before the entrance to the Samaria(3orge.

vie、7s.Although the bottom pan ofthe town

Places to Stay&Eat

is■ Ot particularly a“ ractive with boarded‐

Most(Dmalos hoteis are only open when

up buildings,the road becornes inore scenic

the Sanlaria C)orge is open.

as it lヽ

′ inds uphili to the modcrn, multi‐

c010ured ichurch Of the Panalgia.Next to it is a 14th‐ century chapel built on the foun― dations of a 6th‐ century basilica that rnight have been built on an even earlier Tlenlple of

Aphrodite.At the entrance to the town・ a sign directs yOu to the(こ hape:of Metanlor‐ phOSiS SOtiЮ u(TranSiguratiOn Ofthe SaV‐ iOur)which contains 14th‐ century iescoes.

′οs ″ο′ ι′′ ￨′

οs ρ 67269,ヵ χ67′ 9の is the posh‐ O″ α′ est hotel with comfo■ able modern rooms V and cost 7000 dr ′ ο r● 67ノ 6,is the おr a dOuble.E′ ′

that include satellite´

I｀

"″ nearbst to the Sarnaria([〕 orge and has silΥ ple dOuble rOorns for 6000 dr.II10′ r・ 6ア

l―

′ ′ E.χ α

`′ ′θの is somewhat run doWn and haS

sirnple roorns for 5000 dr but you'd bc bet‐ ter Off at Sα

′ αr● 67′ 6oお rthe same ″α′

Ready fOrthe day ahead― Frangokastello Beach

ロ

Hania's an lmpresslve rerninder Of the town's Venetian past

Boats moored in Hania harbOur

of Loutro is only

accessible by boat or

々

Arched doorway ln the trad― lt10nal style ln Agrlroupolis

Wildfiowers o■ en add colour to Cretan hornes

A colourful doorWay to Hania's Venetian past

々

Hanla's waterfront with Lefka Oriln the background

Colourful doors in Hania

Lunch anyone'A、 typical cafe scene in quiet Loutro

View frorn the top:the Samaria Gorge is Europe's largest and most spectacular

Slx hours to go:the trek do,vn into the Samaria cOrge begins v′ lth the steep stalrcasc at xyloskal。

A Byzantine church sits within the Lefka Ori mountaln range

The small vi‖ age of Lakklin the Lefka C)ri affords stunning views whichever"′ ay you turn

Sfakia Province― Samaria Gorge 129

price.″ ο′ ′′ G′ g′ ′ οs r・ 67ノ ∂〃 is the ■iendliest hOtel in Oma10s and has rooms

for 5000/6000 dr.All hotels except Neos C)malos and iExari havc restaurants that do

a bustling business serving breakfast to hikers and are Open at meal times the rest ofthe day.

The EOS(Greek Mountaincering Club)

Be avvare,also,that the trek is not easy and can be especially intensive in hot weather.

The trek'om Xyloskalo to Agia Roumeli takes around six hours.Early in the season it's sometimes necessay tO wadethrOugh the stream.Latet asthe now drops,it's possible to use rocks as stepping stones. An early start helps to avoid the wOrst Of

maintainS κα″′昭 ′〃 ′ρ ″ 56の loCated “ and the Sarnaria in the hilis be"een()rnalos

the crowds, but during July and August

Gorge.It has 45 beds,electricity(but nO hOt

the gorge can be packed. ´ 「 he trek begins at Xyloskalo, the steep 、 vooden staircase that gives access tO the Samaria Gorge.The towcring wal1 0frOck On the right is Mt(3ingilos.Ylou'll descend swiftly_about a kilometre in the nrst tw。

Water)and makeS a g00d baSe 10r eXploring Mt Gingilos and surrounding pcaks.

Ce

ng There&Away

There are four daily buses to Omalos,om Hania(l hour,1250 dr)

SAMARIA GORG■

even the carly bus frOm Hania tO the tOp Of

kilometres of the、valk.'There are springs Of ・ ■ esh nlountain iwater and several pOrtable toilets en rOutc.The rOute levels Out a,自 ler the

Φαρdγ γt τηq Σαμαρld⊆ A visit to this stupendous gorge is an expe‐

rience to remenlbcr. ｀ Fou'll descend the gorge enveloped in the scent of pine until you reach the riverbed.Along the、 vay you might see owis,cagles Or vuitures.IfyOu're extrenlely lucky you rnight spOt the ′ ,1α′ ″,ο rg′ ′ θ″(bearded Vulture),harrier eagle Or golden eagle― all endangered species.The

Chape:of Agios Niko:aos on the right and ´ you'1l be arrlid pines and cypresses. he gorge is wide and open until yOu reach the :『

abandoned village ofSarnaria,、 vhose inhab‐ itants weに

docated when the gOrgc became

a national park.The warden's omce isin the abandoned vinage and just south is a sma‖ church dedicated to Saint Maria of Egypt, aier whom the gOrge is nained.The walk be_

gorge's inaccessibility has saved it flonl the

comes rockier,the path t、 vists and turns and

twin evils of Cretan wildlit― timber cut_ ting and livestock grazing.As a result,the

the scenelD′ becornes rnore spectacular as the

gorge is teenling with line. There's an in_ credible nuinber of、 vildn。 ヽ vers, at their best in April andヽ 4ay.Watch for rare peOn‐

ies that flourish in thc danlpness Of the gorge.The gorge is horne tO the zο ′″ブ′ っ α `′

(Cretan pOleCat)and the kri― kri,a wild goat

that survives in the wild Only here and On thc islet of Kri‐

Kri.The gorge was made a

nationai park in 1962 to save the kri―

kri

nrorll extinction but you're unlikely to sec one of these tirnid anirnals.

At 18km, Sanlaria is suppOsedly the longest gorge in Europe. Beginning just below the()rna10s I)lateau,it、vas carved out

rock walls rise malestically on either side. The path nal■ ows until,atthe 12km mark, the、 valls are only 3.5m apart― the famous

iron Gates.After a tw more kilometres you'1l reach the alnlost abandOned village Of Old Agia Roumeli whe“ there are stands selling overpriced drinks.The last ki10metre is the dullest,but inally you arrive at the small reso■ ofAgia Roulmle!i「 where you can grab sorne lunch at the Kri Kri rcstaurant or wade into the sparkling sea.

The gorge is open most years iom May ´

l until lnid-Octobe■ 「 he Opening date de― pcnds on the anlount of、 vater in the gOrge. Visiting hours are 6 am to 4 pnl every day,

by the rivcr thtt nows between the Lefka C)ri and Mt Volakias.The best Ⅵ′ ay to see the

and there's an entry fec of1200 dr.Hold on

gorge is on a trek but bearin mind that you

end of your hike in Order to helpl wardens

v/on't be alone.The gorge attracts several thousand visitors a day in July and August making it uncolnfonably crOwdcd at times_

keep track Ofthe peOplc in the gOrge.Swiin―

to your ticket since it wili be c011ected atthe

ming and spending the nightin the gorge is forbidden.There's a sinall museunl at the

130 Sfakia Province-lHora Sfakion

entrance to the gorge with exhibits relating to the ecology ofthe gOrge.It's interesting ifyou have tirne to spare,but hardly essen‐ tial.It's open 9 anlto 2 prn dailyヽ 4arch to

to catch the next bus out butthe town lnakes a relaxing stay for a tw days.Under Venet‐ ian and´ urkish rule Hora Sfakion was an impoltant nlaritinle centre and,as capital of

Novembet Admission is 200 dr.There's entrance to the gOrge.

the Sfakia region,the nucleus ofthe Cretan ・ he Turks in― struggle for independence. 「 vn's inhab_ nicted severe reprisals On the t。 、

What to Bring

itants for their rebelliousness in the 19th century and the to、vn fell into an econornic

Sensible■ )otwear is essential for walking

slurnp tllat lasted until the arrival oftourisin

also a snack bar and souvenir shop at the

I｀

on the uneven ground cOvered by sharp

several decades ago.Hora Sfakion played a

stOnes.′ rrainers will dO but hiking shoes are

prorninent role during WWII 、 vhen thou‐

eVen betteL You'1l also need a llat and sun‐ screen.´ hcre's no need to take water While

sands of Allied troops were evacuated by sea■ 。m the town anerthe Battle of crete.

it's inadvisable to drink 、 vater fioin the nlain stream, there are plenty of springs

0)『

I｀

along the way spurting delicious cool water

straight iom the rock.There is nowhere to buy lood,so bring soinething tO snack on.

I・

here are excursions to the Santaria()orge

froin every sizeable town and resort in Crete.Most travel agents have two excur‐ sions: `Sainaria (3‐ orge

Long Way' and

`Samaria Gorge Easy Way'.The nrst com‐ prises the regular trek,onl the Omalos Plateau to Agia Roumeli;the second starts 誠 Agia Roumeli and takes you as far asthe lron Gates.Although undoubtedly an easier hike,yOu miss the best part of the gorge which lies near the top. (1)bviously it's cheaperto trek the Sarnaria

(1)orge under your own steanl.Hania is the most convenient base. There are buses to 狩 loskalo(onc hou■ 1250 dr)at 6.15,7.30 and 8.30 anl and l.45 prn.If you intcnd to stay on the south coast ask for a one― way vise you'll automatic‐ ticket(750 dr),otheい 、 ally be sold a return.「 『 here's also a direct buS tO XyloSka10■ Oin PaleohOra(llろ hOurS,

tourist police.,Iζ ou

can change nloney on the main square at the Traveners service cen_ tre.Sね kia Tours(● 91130)is next to the post ofnce and is a g。 。d source of infor_ rnation; they can change rnOney, rent cars and find accornmodation..There is no park‐ ing in tOwn but a large car park immediaely

outside oftown.

Places to Stay&lat There are a number of hotels and dornatia in town that provide reasonably good valuc.The

best accommodttion isニ ルルο ″r●

9′ 2′

〃 on

the wateriont,which has large,brightly dec‐ orated roorns、 vith stone floors and sea vie、 vs

ねr9000/11,500 drin the hitt Seぉ on.″ 0″ Sヒ ッ ′ οs r● 9ノ 22(〃 ,up the steps at the west― enl end of the port, has clean roorns with bathroorn for 5000/5500d■ I)on't expect a

wam welcomethou」

.」 ο ″′ Sα ″″ ′′ αr雷

9′

room b 4000/6000d■ πο″ χ′ ″″ 作

9′

26〃 ,On the Water'Ont,hお ЮOmS With bath‐

1400 dr)at 6 am.

HORA SFAK10N x6pα Σφακ

「 he post ofnce andく )TE are

eastern side.′

on the square,and the pollce station over‐ 1。 。 ks it.´ 「 here is no tourist onnce and n。

Getting There&Away

・

lentatlom&Information

The fenう ′quay is at the western side ofthe harboun 13uses leave fi・ orn the square on the

v

電 ]'0825 0 postcode 730 01 0 pop `ω 366 HOra Sね k10n(H。 ― ra Sね ‐ ki‐ On)iS the Small coastal pOrt where the hordes of walkers iom the Sainaria Gorge spill off the boat and onto the bus.As such,in high season it can seenl like Piccadilly Circus at rush hour.ヽ 4ost people pause only long enough

2θ 22θ

の,ciose to the inγ docks,is one of the few places 、 vhere this governrnent‐ run chain has corne up with the goods.It has spa‐

・idge overlooking the cious roorns with a ■ sea fヤ on1

9000/12,000 dr including breakfast.

Nearby is/ルツο″r'9′ ′ ∂の which has mod‐ enl roorns of、 vhite walls and pine l■ lrniture

for 7000/8500 di The cheapest rooms are at

Sfakia Province― Frangokastei!o 131

sF9′ 2おり,which has rooms 、 vith shared bath for 4500/5000 dn・ rhe ad―

″ SI′ Fα Rο ο

joining hoteis Samaria and Livikon have a

′ ッ ι ″αdo、 vnstairs

that has a good selection

of vegetarian dishes.The rOad that runs in― land fionl the main square has a bα ″響 alld

`″

protect the coastう rorn piratcs and help the ｀ v4enetians deal 、 vith chronically rebellious

Hora Sfakion 14kin to the cast.The Sfakian region continued to pose problerns for the ´ urkish occupiers several centuries iate■ 「 ・ he legendary Sfakian patriot loannis I｀

as“ ￨′ ′ ″ ″α′ ルι ′

I:)askalogiannis led a disastrous rebellion

Things to See&lDo

suaded to surrendcr hirnselfto the′ rurks at the Frangokastello Fortress.I,lc、 vas nayed

´ against the 「 urks in 1770 and was per‐

.

There are t、 vo bcaches in to、 vn, the town

ont ofthe prornenade and anothcr beach at the town's western end.Ask at Hotel Xenia about bo江 andjeep beach in fl・

less cro、 vded

excursions.´「 hey also run a day trip to(3av―

alive.()n May 17 1828,385(Crctan rcbels,

led by Hadzi Mihalis I)alanis, made a herOic last stand atthe fOriress in One Ofthe bloodiest battles of the Cretan struggle for

dos lsiandう or 14,000 dr on a fast boat.

independence.About 800 Turks、vere

Getting There&Away

along with l)alanis and the Cretan rebels. 1｀ he bloodshed gave rise to the legend of the 11)rosoulites.()n the anniversary of the

Bus There are lour buses a day iom Hora Sfakion to Hania(two hours,1400 dr).In surnrner only there are tto daily buses to Plakias(1シ 各hours, 1150 dr)via Frango― kastello, leaving at il.30 am and 5.30 prn and one to Rcthymno(two hours,・ 1700 dr) at 7.30 pnl.

Boat ln summerthere are daily boats■

om

HOra Sfak10n tO PaleOhOra(three hOurS,

3500 dr)via Loutro,Agia Roumeli and Sougia.The boat leaves at 12.30 pnl.There are also three or four boats a day to Agia

Roumeli(one hour,1500 dr)via Loutro(30

minutes,500 dr).From l June there are boats to (〕

avdos lsland on Saturday and

killed

decisive battle,orin late May around dawn, it's sald that a procession of ghostly figures

materialises around the lort and inarches to

rhc phenOrnenOn has been verined by a numbcr ofindependent observers.Al‐ though iocals believe the figures are the

the sca.´

ghosts ofsiaughtered rebels,others theorise that it nlay be an optical illusion created by

ceitain atnlospheric conditions and that the figures may be a renection ofcanleis or s。 1_ diers in the Libyan Dese■ .

Orientation&Inforrnation

・ 「 here's no actual town centre in Frango‐ kastello,just a series of domatia,tavernas

Sunday leaving at 9.30 anl and returning at

and residences that stretch on either side of

4 pm(2650 dr).

the main road■ om Hora Sfaklon to the

FRANGOKAST■ LLO

inent.There's no bank,post ofice or O′ 「 E, but Castello Travcl Agency(雪 92068)be‐

fo■ ress which marks the end ofthe settle‐

Φpα wOKdOτ ελλO 望 :'0825

hind the supennarketis a good source ofin―

Frangokaste1lo, 82krn south‐ east of Hania,

lormation; they ind accommodation,

boasts the nnest stretch of beach on the

handle air and boat tickets,change inoney

south coast as、 vell as a crunlbling fort,a

and arrange car rentals.´

snlall to、 vn,

about 40m west ofthe fortress.

an eventful history and even ghosts. ・ he 、′ ide, 、 vhite sand beaches are nearly deserted and s10pe gradually into shallo、 v warm、 vater making them ideal for

I｀

he bus stop is only

I｀

Places to Stay l&Eat

imum with most hotcls set back'om the

αッ ′is Rο ο″sr・ 9225(ν is on the right as you enter the town iom Hora Sfakion and ´ has rooms/studios for 6000/9000 dr. 「 he

shore t()leavc the natural beauty intact.

roorns have balconies and sea views but it's

kids.I])eveloplllent has been kept to a min―

1｀

he best beach is beneath the 14th―

centully lortress built by the

ヽ /ienetians to

s′

about a kilornetre walk to the minimarket and 2km bebre the brtress.,を α力οs Rο ο″s

132 Sfakia Province―

&々 ″′加

Loutro

なF"θ り is also on the rut

“ as you entertown and has a taverna down‐ stairs.Four‐ person apartinents cost 10,000 di 3′ ″ιSly И′α ′ ″ι ″歯 r・ 92θ 9,is set back fiom the beach and is On the left as you

enter town.Apartrnents that sieep six cost 15,000d● Gο ″″Rω ″s`ο R“ ′ρ 3〃

and Anopolis.According to legend,St Paul was on his way to Loutro when he encOun― tered a stornl that blew hinl ofF course past (〕

avdos lsiand and on to eventual ship、

″reck

in Malta.

Orientation&information

is conveniently 10cated near the fOrtress "θand

There'S no bank,post ofnce or()TE but

a ininimarket.Rooms cost 5000/7000 dr.

there are l■ any places tO change inoney at the westenl end Ofthe beach.The boat iom

Nearby isИ ′ r′ ″おRο ο ″sr● 92θ 9の which has iarge doubles Overiooking the beach, with a F dge for 6000 dr.Oα sお 92′ 3の

Hora Sfakion docks in the centre Of the beach but the boat frorn Agia Rourneli

has studiOs and rOOins overiooking the

docks at the far westerll end in fiont Ofthe

beach about a kllornctre before the fo■ lress. 13)Ouble roOins/studios cost 7000/10,000 di

sins Hotcl.Tr【 。u can buy boat tickets at a

`●

MO′gα ″αF"θ 7り is atNema with `″ tO rent near the fo rOOmS ress.Rooms cost 5000/7000 di 乃

R′ s`α ′ α″′xi′ ′ 」 ′is a beautinllly desiglled multi‐

“ level

structure across

lrOnl

the

fo」:ress, elaborately Outitted with several terraCeS and a fOrest ofpo■ lcd plants.Meals

sta1l on the beach that is Open an hour be‐ lore cach departure.

Things to See&lDo Loutro is a good base for boat excursions along tlle sOuth cOast.There are hvo excur‐ sion boats a week to Gavdos lsi密 ld that cOst

14,000 dr including food and son drinks.

are CXpenSive(count on spending 3000 dr)

Thcre a・ e also excus10n boats thtt dO a`sun‐

but excellent and there's a dally happy hour at 7 pm lwhere drinks are halfp ce.It's open

set cruise'mda`dolphin sitttseeing cruise' for 4000 di Hotel POrtO Iし outro is a g00d

nOon to midnight daily April to Noveinber

source ofin■ )lTnatiOn fOr bOat schedules and

Cetting There&Away ln suminer only,there are two daily buses

kiOn tO PlakiaS(1%hOurS,

there's a stallin fiOnt where you can rent ca―

noesfor 700 dr an hour or2000 dra day.Tlaxi

boats leave lrom inうront of HOtel POnO

'Om 1150HOm dr)via Sね Frangokastelo.From Hania

Loutro, charging 4000 dr tO Sweet Wlater Beach and 7000 drto Hora Sfhklon.

there's a daily aftemoon bus(2%hrs,1750 dr)and there iS a daily bus'om Rethymno (1%hrs,1550dぅ .A taxl■ om HOra Sfakion

halfhour walk west O Phoenix(or Finix),an

costs about 3000 dr

Byzantines now a cluster Of stark, white

L(OUTRO Aoυ τρ6

11'0825 0 pop 52 ´ 「 he srnall but rapidly expanding nshing vil_ lage of LoutЮ (Loo‐ tЮ )lies bctween Agia

Loutro is also a goOd base for walks.It'sa important se■ lement for the Romans and houses set against rust‐

c。

10ured cliffb on a

narrow cove. Tlo get there,go past So■ a Rooins,bear len,p thoutt a w。 。den ince andぉ 11。 w

sigis to the E4 European footpath.The path

Roumeli and Hora Sね kion.The town is lit_

takes you over a plain and past a Turkish cそ s‐

tle rnore than a crescent Of houses and dO‐

tle before descending to Phoenix.Loutro's

matia bordering a narrOw beach. It's a

liveliest bar,Labyrinth,is also along the path

pleasant, lazy resoit that is never over_ whelmed with visitors althOugh it can get

and has live nlusic on weekends.

busy in July and August. Loutro is the only natural harbour on the south coast of Crete and is only accessible

by boat or on f00t. Its advantageous geO‐ graphical pOsition 、 vas appreciated in an‐ cienttirnes when it was the port for Phoenix

From lPhoenix, the path cOntinues over clinR,and hilis to Likkos,a wide cOve with three tavenlas clustered at thc eastern end.

13arren clifIS Ioonl over a wide shadeless beach with caves and rOcks On either end. ・ I｀

he next cove is Marmara Beach. It's a

long,hot walk'om Likkos(over an hOu⇒

Sfakia Province― Agia Roumeli 133

v/hich is、 vhy nlost people corne On excur‐

AGlA R10UM■ Ll

Aγ 〔 α Po6μ ελ■

sion boats,om Hora Sfakion.

1:'0825 0 poP 36

An extreinely steep path leads up■ olm Loutro to the village ofAnopolisぃ .hich Ⅵ7as the scene ofI)askalogiannis'great rebellion

Agia Roumeli is a shadeless,rathcr blcak to、 vn

of houses that are too ne、

v and strccts

against the Turks.Now it is a tranquil and

that are too neatly laid out to nlake an inter― esting stroll.The town has little going for it

traditional nlountain village that gets few

but a wide pebbly beach that looks pretty

visitors.Alternatively,you can savc your―

good if you'vc just trekked 18kin over

self the、 valk by taking the IIIania― Skaloti

pointed rocks.Aller the afternoon crush of

bus which calis in at Anopolis en route.The

gorge― trekkers has left there's not much to

bus leaves I‐ Iania at 2 pnl and returns the

do here except hang‐ outin onc ofthe nlany,

following morning,ca‖ ing in at Anopolis at 7 am.

nlany tavernas in to、 vn.

From Loutro it's a moderate hour long

Orientation&inforrnation

′ 、 へ alk along a coastal path to thc celebrated

MIost travcllers just pass through Agia

Sweet Water Beach named after ieshwtter

Roumeli waiting to catch the boat to Hora ´ sfakion. 「 he boat ticket onnce is a s11lall

springsヽ ″hich seep nrolll the rocks. Frec― lance cainpers spend rnonths at a tinlc here.

Even ifyou don'tfeelinclinedtojointheinl, you won't be able tO resist a swilτ

l in the

translucent sca. There is a taverna on the western end of the beach that sells drinks and snacks and rcnts sun unlbrellas_

concrete structure near the beach.・ I'here's no post ofice or()・ E and no travel agencies. I｀

Places to Stay&Eat

・ 「 here are inany dOnlatia but the best hotel is〃ο′ Иgiα Rο ″″′′ ′ 9ノ 23秒 at theね r ′ ′ western end of town on the beach, where `●

Places to Stay&Eat

roorns are 6000/8000 dr with private bath―

The Sグ ラ ょ″ο″′r・

April to(:)ctober;roorns cost 7000/8500 dr

roonl.Many have balconies overlooking the ι ′」 Flα ′ α″g′ sea. Also on the beach is IJο ′ r雪 9′ 32〃 where you'‖ pay 5000 dr br a

and breakfastis an extra 1200 dr.´

he corn―

single or double.Nearby is the filendly and

イ3〃 has

homey οαsお

9′ Jィ の has pretty,wen‐ kept roorns all with sea vie、 vs. It's open

おnable〃 οた′Pο ′ ″ οZο 〃′ ′ οr●

9ノ

I｀

doubles with private bathroorll fOr 9000 di

Atthe top oftown/′ α′ ′ ″′″お AIル ′r● 9′ 26〃 haS beauti力 ‖y fumiShed fOur― perSOn studios with beained ceilings and stone noors for 12,000 dr a night. ・ ou could also try」 R:′ s′α ′ α″″α″″」 Rセ ″ ′ Rο ο ″sI″ οs r・ 9′ ′6の at “ the eastern end ′ ofthe beach,、 ヽ hich has roolms for 6000 dr. Rο ο ″,s Sο′αr・ 9ノ 35り arc ovcr a mini― nlarket One street in frOm thc beach;r00rn s Y′

r・ 9ノ 39〃 which has simple roornsゝ ′ ith private bath for 4000 dr. The

only establishrncnt in town with air― con is

「 ¨ ― 」 οr′ ′ R`s′ α″″ α″′ κ′ ′ κ″ ′r雷 9ノ

θ∂

"

which has roorns with air― conditioning for 9000 dr and roorns、 vithout air‐ conditioning for 7000 di´ 「 he restaurantis also very good Or yOu cOuld eat at ir物 ′《 5,ο ′ ig′ ,a pOpular

taverna. It's open ll anl to ll pin daily

Aprilto Novcmbcr.

are 4000/4500 dr.The beachlront is lined with rα ッ ″α s that inaintain reasOnably `′ good standards.

Cetting There&Away

Cetting There&Away

to Hora Sfaklon(one hour, 1500 dr)via

Loutro is on the main Paleohora―

I‐

Iora

I:)uring the nlonths the gorge is open to v′ alkers, there are frequent boats icaving Agia Roumeli.There are three boats a day Loutro (30 ininutes, 850 dr). It connects

Sfakion boat route. From April to(:)ctober there are three boats a day frorn I-lora

with the bus back to I‐ iania,leaving you in

Sfakion(500 dr),thrce boats■ om Agia Roumeli(850 dr),and one boat a day'om

偽w drachma.There's also a boat iom Agia

Paleohora(2500 dr).

calling at Sougia(950 dr).

卜 lora Sfakion just long enough to spend a Roumelito Paleohora(2100 dr)at 4.45 pm,

134 Se:ino Province― Sougia

Selino Province ・ ucked into the south― western cOrner Ofthe I｀

Hania prefecture,Selino is a pretty agricul_ tural region with spectacular vic、

vs Overthe

coastal road by the Santa lrene liotel and

runs north to the Agia lrini Gorge and I―

lania. Sougia doesn't have a post Oflice,

C)TE or bank,but you can change rnoney at several places, including Polifimos Travel(● 51022),which is open 9 am tO

sea and a wealth oflittle villages nOtable fOr

l prn and 4.30 to 10 pm March to October,

their 13yzantinc churches.′「 hc district was

and Roxana's Ofice(● 51362)which is

built by theヽ ,4enetians in Palechora in the 13th century..The village ofKandanos is the

opcn 8.30 am to ll pin April to OctOber. Both are just off the coastal road On the road to Hania.

nained aftcr the`Kastello Selino'fo■ ress

capital of the province and contains twO

Byzantine churches.Kadros,9km away,has

C)rganised■ours

churches with pa■ icularly ine lByzantine ftescoes. Iく andanos was a centrc Of resis‐ tance against thc(:〕 ernlans in WWII and as

boat for 5000 dr,to.I｀ ripiti lor 8000 dr,and

a rcsult nlost ofthe village was dernolished and nlost ofits inhabitants rnassacred.ヽ 4ost tourists head to the lovely calin beach re―

sorts of Paleohora and Sougia fiOnl which there are many interesting、valks and boat trips you can take to exp10re the regiOn.

50UG:AΣ 。6γ tα 宅 0823 0 pop 50 :「

1t's surprising that Sougia hasn't yet been cornrnandeered by the packagc tOur crO、 vd.

With a wide curve Ofsand and pebble beach and a shady tree― lined coastal road,SOugia's

tranquillity has been preserved Only because it lics at thc loot of a narro、 v,tl● ′ isting rOad that would deter nlost tour buses.

The name Sougia derives,om the wOrd `sis'which means pig and refers to the pig rearing that had been the mainstay Of the town's econonny.「 Fhe ancient pan of the

town was on the westenl side and nour_ ished under the Ronlans and Blyzantines when it wasthe po■ ofElyros,an iinportant iniand City(nOW diSappCa“ d). ´ 「 here was a 6th‐ century basilica at the 、 vestern end of the village that contained a ine inosaic floor that is nOw in the Hania

Roxana・ rravel offers a trip to ILissos by taxi to Pikilassos lor 9000 dn All prices are for a one― way trip.

Places to Stay l｀

here's no camp site,butthe castern end of

the long,pebbled beach is popular withう

ree―

lance canlpers.It seenns alnlost every build―

ing in Sougia is a donlatia or pension.「 Fhe

smartcst accommodation is Sα ″′ α I″ ι Лb′ r● 5′ 3イ 2ノ&χ 5′ ノ∂〃,WhiCh haS Stu― “ dios`′for 8000/12,000 dL Air‐ conditioning costs 2000 dr extra. 」 ?ο ο ″,siイ ′ ′ αr● 5′ lα

J,7,is a block further east on the coast and has clean,white roorns with private bath fOr 5000/7000 drin August,1000 dr less thc rest ofthc surnrner Next door is thc equally at‐ tractivc Rο ο sR′ ′ ルαr・ 5′ ノ6〃 also with

“ roorns overlooking the sea fOr abOut the same price. Inland, on the road to Hania, И′ ι″″εαRο ο″sゎ R′″′r・ 5′ ′7の has lovely roorns with wood‐ panelled ceilings and balconies for 7000/8000 dr.」 PI′ ″s′ ο″ ⑫′ ′ r● 確 χ5ノ イ∂〃 next door,has beauti‐ "′ 1,l roorns with private bathroonl lor 5000/ 6000/7000 dr and studios for 8000 di

P'aces to Eat ltestaurants line the water」 卜ont and there are

Archaeological Museum.

mOre On the main St“ et.り″α,On the Sea―

Orlentation&lnforrnatlon

of ready‐ rnade l)od.It's open 8 anl to lnlid‐

lf you arriVe by boat, walk about 150rn along the coast to the tO、 vn centre.lf you arrive by bus,the bus、 vill drOp lyOu on the

coastal road in 6ront of the Santa lrene ´ Iotel. he only Other rOad intersects the 「 I―

1lont as you enter tOwn,has a g00d selectiOn

night daily April to Novenlber. 7レ ッ ″α `′ 沢 う ルο,On the rOad tO Hania h`s an exten‐ sive`″menu including such Cretan dishes as bο ″ rθ た ノand stuffed zucchini llowers. It's 'ι

open noon to inidnight daily Aprilto()ctober

SelinO Province― Around Sougia 135

Getting There&Away

ble altar‐ basc that supported the statue next

There's a daily bus lronl Hania to Sougia

to the pit in which sacrinccs wcre placed. ´

(2%hours,1400 dr)at l.30 pm.Buses iom Sougia to Hania leave at 7 anl.Sougia is on the IPaleohora‐ 1-lora Sfakion boat route.

AROUND 50UG:A SOugia is at the mouth of the pretty,Agia irini Gorge, 1 2klT,north of Sougia,、 vhich may not bc as fashionable as the Sainaria )Orge walk but is iess cro、 vded and less (二

gruelling.´ he gorge is 7km long and is car‐ I・

peted with olcander and chestnut trccs and is rcdolcnt with thc odours of rosenlary, sage and thyrne.ヽ `ou'li entrance the gOrge On the right sidesee ifthe you're trav‐to

elling froni Sougia. You'1l cross a streambed before corning to olive groves but nlany trees were destroyed in a inassive fire in 1994.´「 he path follows a dried out

riverbed bordered by caves carved into the

rhe Other nOtable feature Of I_′ issos is the

mosaic n。 。r

of rnulti_c。

1。 ured

stones intri―

cately arranged in beautiful geornetric 、 vay shapcs and images of birds. C)n the dO、 vn

tO the sea there are traces of Rornan ruins and on the western slopcs of the val‐ ley are unusual barrel‐ vaultcd tonlbs. Nearby are thc ruins oftヽ vo early(3hrist―

ian basilicas― Agios Kirkos and the Panagia ―dating■ om■ he 13th centui・y.

PAL■ OHORA IIα λαι oχ ωρα

● 0823 o pop 2150 PaleOhOra(Pal― ee-0‐ hOr― a)ヽ VaS diSCOVered by hippics back in thc 60s and fiorn then on its days as a tranquil ■shing village'were

´ nurnbered. 「 he resort opcrators have not 80ne、 vay over the top― yet.´ 「 he place re‐

large rOcks.1・ here are a nurnber ofrcst stops a10ng thc、 vay and nlany tranquil places to sit and adrnire the sccnery. Paleohora travel agents ofΥ ier guided、 valks

tains a celllain laid― back feel. It is also the

through the gorge for 4500 dr. It's easy enOutt tO OrganiSe independently司 uSt CatCh the Omalos bus iom Paleohora orthe Hania

、′ ith a long,curving sandy beach exposed

bus■ Om Sougia,and get off at Agia lrini.

evenings the nlain street is closed to trafic

´ 「 he l・ tlins of ancient Lissos are lン ちhours avν ay On the COaStal path tO PaleOhOra(See

boxed text `Paleohora― Sougia Coastal VValk'). Lissos arose under the lDorians, vas nourished under the Byzantines and 、 destroyed by thc Saracens in the 9th cen‐ StateS, tury.It WaS part Of a league Of Ciサ ‐ led by ancient Gortyn,and lllinted their o、 vn vith the 、 vord `Lis― cOins inscribed 、

g。 ld

sion'.At one tinle there was a reservoir,a thcatre and hOt springs but these have not yet been excavated. Most of、 vhat you see dates from the lstthrough 3rd centuries BC when Lissos iⅣ as kno、 vn for its curative springs. The 3rd― century― B(〕 Teimple of Asklepion、 vas built nextto one ofthe cura― tive springs and nanled anierthe Greek god

only beach resort on lC;rete、vhich does not go into total hibernation in winter ´ rhe littlc tOwn lies On a narrOw peninsula

to the wind on one side and a sheltered pebbly beach on the other.(:)n surnrner and the tavernas n10ve Onto the road.「 Fhe nlost picturesque part of Paleohora is the nal■ ov/streets

huddled around the castle.

Orlentation Paleohora's inain street,EI Venizelou,runs ien― nOrth_sOuth. walking sOuth along El izelou nrom the bus stop,several streets lead Offlet to the Pebble lBeach.´「 here's an at― tractive seanront prornenade that runs along the beach which is the centre ofPaleohora's

activity in the carly evening. Boats leavc fionl the old harbour at the southern end of

this beach At the sOuthern end of El ienize10u,a rightturn onto Kontekakileads to the tanlarisk―

shaded Sandy Beach.

of healing Asclepius.

Inforrnation

Excavations here uncovered a headless ith 20 other statue of Asclepius along ヽ′ statuc,aginents now in the Hania Archae―

The municipal tOurist Of■ ce(雷 41507)is in the town ha1l on lElヽ4enizelou.Itis open 10 Vednesday to am t。 l pnl and 6 to 9 plη ヽ

ological Museum.Yiou can stili see the mar‐

Monday May to October.The National Bank

136 Se:ino Province― Pa:eohora

of Grecce is on El 17ienizelou and has an ´ AII｀ M. 「 he pOst Ofice is on the rOad that SkirtS the Sandy Bcach.The()TE is on the

annual rnenlbership of 60 dr and then pay

west side ofEI VeniZelou,just no■ h of Kon―

50 dr a week for unlirnited sailing.

Club(● 0946819777)near the Pal Beach I-lotel rents equiprnent but you nlust buy an

tekaki.Internet access is providcd at PC Cor―

ner(■ 142422).Thcre's a laundry on El

Piaces to Stay

｀tniZe10u next to卜lotos Rentals. Interkreta Tourism and Travel(奮 41393,fax 41 050)

″g rb′ ιο力ο′ αr● イ′225/ノ 2θりiS ″ ′ l.5krn north‐ cast Ofthc tOwn,near the lPeb‐ ble lBeach.1「 he carnp sitc has a taverna but

on Iく ontekaki sells boat tickets and excur‐

sions and is a g00d source of infOrnlation. It'S Open 9 anlto l pin and 4 to 9 prn daily.

Things to See&Do lt's

、 ″orth cianlberingl up the ruins of the

1 3th―

century Venetian castle fOr the splen_

′ofthe sea and n10untains.・ did vie、 、

Clα

no rnininlarket.

″ο″′ Sraッ ∠″ ο″ッ″ο sr奮 イ′5θ 9ο ″イ2 θ9の iS a great plaCeお “ r baCkpackers,with clean,siinply furnished rooms set around a snlall, beautinul garden. singies/doubles/ tripleS ヽ′ ith shared bathroonl cost 3500/

4500/5000 dr, and there is a cOrnnlunal

he cas_ tle VVaS built by the｀vienetians in the 13th century as a deinsivc l。 ■ress nrom which

kitchen.´ rhc owner,ヽ 4anolis,is an arniablc yOung guy who speaks good lEnglish and is

the Venetians cOuld keep an eye On the

full of useful infOrmatiOn fOr travellers.・

south‐

r｀

western cOast'om its commanding

get therc, walk south along El

「o ヽrenizelou

position on top Of a hill.There's nOt much le■ of the fo■ ress hOwever,as it was de―

nr。 11l the bus stop and turn right at the town hall. FolloM′ the road as it veers right,the

stroyed by the Venetians,the・

r。

「 urks,the pl― rate Barbarossa in the 16th century, and iater the Gernlans during wWII. Frorn lPaleOhOra,a six=hour walk along a scenic coastal path leads to Sougia,passing the ancient site of Lissos.(See boxed text, `PaleOhOra‐ SOugia COaStal｀ Valk')

Palcohora is knO、 vn fOr its excellent

。ms are on the len. 0′ ″″″′″α ッ Rο O″ sr● イノθ7の occu‐

pies the large nlodern bullding at the north‐

´ ern end of the pebble beach. 「 he owner, 1｀ halia, is a very cheerful 、 vOnlan and the

irnnlaculate r00nls with private bath― room and ceiling fans are good value at 5000/7000 dr.´ herc's also a shaded terracc― I｀

windsurfing which is the bcst on the isiand.

restaurant overlooking the sea that serves

Winds b10、 v mOst strOngly on the Sandy Bcach and usually peak in the late mOrning

decent rneals.

and early alRernoon.VVest、 vind Windsuring

D″ α″ Rο ο″sr・ ィノ′ ′ 〃 is aptly named ぉr the largc,cxcenently maintaincd r。 。ms

Paleohora‐ 5ougia Coastal VValk From the town centre of Palechora,fO‖ Ow signs to the camping grounds to the north― east. Turn right at the intersectionヽ″ith the road to Anidri and sOon you'￨l be following the coastal

ヽ ner a couPle of kilornetres, the path clirnbs Path iTlarked as the[4 European Footpath ノ Steeply fOr a beautifui VieW baCk to Paleohora Ylou′ ll pass Anidri Beach and severalinviting coves where peOple rnay be getting an a‖ ― 。ver tan.Take a dip because the path soon turns inland to pass over Clape F:omes Ylou'￨l walk along a plateau carpeted with brush thatleads tOVVard the COaSt and SOrne breathtaking Views over the Libyan Sea Soon yOu'￨l reach the Minoan site of Lissos ,After Lissos the path takes you through a pine fOrest and then a gorge

bedecked、 ″ith Oleander and outfitted、 ″ith sorne perfect picnic spots The road ends at Sougia Harboun Since the walk is nearly shadeless it's impOrtant to take several litres of water and Su nSCreen. lf yOu COrne June through August,it's best to start at sunrise in order to get tO

Sougia before the heat of the day clamps dOvvn.

′ 凸 些 鰊 曇

聰 些 些 凸 些

Se:ino Province― Pa!eohora 137

PALEOHORA

〓” 〓一 ”

20 Crtan Traditional Poseldon Pension

10 National Bank

「 た′ 驚調〃 ,:ω

Pen● erO Notos Rentals

Spamados Rooms Kostas R(Ю

ms

PLACES TO EAT

taundry

OTHER

Nostos Night Ciub

l Notos Rentals 3 Post O“ ice

Pol,ce Station

4 Wesけ ind Whdsuttng 5 Surχ miarket 6 0utdα )r Cinema

with balconies overlooking the sea. Roorns with priv■e bath are 6000/8000 dr.S′ α″α″― ′Os R00″ sr● イノノ9η ,in the old quater,has spoticss,nicely n..lished doubles/triples with

private bathroonl for 7000/8000 dr ・Ilo

get

there walk south along Einai YК la take the

interkrta Tourism PC Co「 ner

offering self‐ catering apartinents along the

Sandy 13each on the other side oftown. POs′ ′ ″0″ Pι ″s′ 0″ r奮 イ′3ア イ /′ ′ 5ソ haS cosy roorns lor 5000/6000 dr with private bathroorn,and studios for 7000/9000 di D′ crα ″οr雪

イ′56λ ′ イノ5∂ ′ ,is

an at‐

Pelican taverna and then the

tractive two‐ storey hotel、“vrapped around a

irst right.Aner 60m turn len and the rooms

central courtyard with iarge, nicely fur_

are on the right.

nished roorns for 8000/10,000 dr. The inost expensive hotel in town is I￢ α ′

■rst

len al■ ‐ erthe

Nearby,Fο s″s Rο ο″sr奮 クは イ′2イ の offiers simple attractive roorns with celling

3ι α ε 力ρ イ′5f2,ヵ χイ ′57の

fans,private baths,tidge and sca views for

for ll,500/16,000 dr.・ he occasional bursts

3500/5000 dr.(Dut of season, it's wolth looking lor a deal at one of the places

of air‐ conditioning

with rooms

I｀

rO。 lns

still do not nlake the

wOrth the price.

138 Seiino Province― Around Pa:eohora

Places to Eat

Getting There&Al″ ay

α″r There are sOme goOd eateries.R′ s」″ ′ S′ ″α ′ ′(6'α ′″′″,in the strcct behind the“ OTE,

tO Hania(two hours,1450 dr);in winter

is a ine li■

there are t、 vo.In

letavernaanddoesagoodjObon

。ldね vourites like■ ied aubergine(800 dr). It's open noon to rnidnight dai!y.´「 he vcry popular D′ο″ッsο s,レ ッ ι′ ″α,on Elヽ tnizelou, is a bit rnore expensive but also serves tasty food.It has a roonly interior and a few tables VI′ 1′ ′ αノ ain daily March to Octobe■ P′zz′ ′ just off Kontehaki,seⅣ es superior pizzas cooked in a wood‐ ■red oven and served on

,

a spacious outdoorterrace.It's open 6.30 prn egetar‐ to midnight dally April to()ctober.ヽ ´ r″ ′

sumrner,this service goes

via Oma10s(1%hours,1250 dr)to cash in on the Sarnaria(]orge trade.

Boat in summerthere are dally trries'om PaleOhOra tO liOra SfakiOn (threC hOurS, 3700 dr)via Sougia(onc hout 950 dr),Agia

outside under the trees.It's open 7 prn to l

ians have a treat in store at the rlヵ

Bus ln surnlner there are three buses a day

,E.ノ

`, near the Sandy 13each.「 Fhe nlenu includcs

Rourneli(two hours, 2100 dr)and Loutro (2%hours,2850 dr).The feriγ

leaves Pale‐

ohora at 9.30 am,and returns iom Hora Sfaklon at 12.30 pm.There's also a boat three times a week in the summerto Gavdos (お ur hours,3000 dr)that leaves Paleohora at 8.30 arn.Tickets for all ofthese boats Can

cunics and a range of Asian dishes, all at

be bought at lnterkreta.IIourism & Travel

very reasonable prices.You can eat well and

(雪

enjOy a beerお rlessthan 2000 di Unお ■u‐ nately the placc is closed in winter.lt's open

6 pm to midnight daily March to Novcmbet ′αッι″οhas a prime position overlooking (】 α そ 遣‐ ray of the old harbour and ofllers a full fi・

41393/888,fax 41 050),Kontekaki 4.

Cetting A『 ound Ca■ Motorcycle&Bicycle All three can

be hired iom Notos Rentals('42110)on 4enizelou and by the Sandy lBeach. El｀ ヽ

esh seafbod.11's open ll arn to rnidnight

daily April to Novenlbcr. Wherever you dine,round your ineal off、 vith a delicious α″ルα″″ο″α′S″ GI″ deSSe■ ■Om Cr′ ′ `″ almost oppositc Rcstaurant Small Gardcn. It's open 8 am to ll pnl daily.

Few tourists nlake it to the town of rarnrneno which leavcs this exceptional ′ ο to the locals.Among 7レ ッ ι′″α Oα ′ ι′ "″ the Cretan spccialties on ofller is a delicious (:〕

Excursion Bcat Thc 1/BE′ α;め ″ぉοs gets cranked into action in nlid‐ April feriγ ing peOple tO the west coast beach of Elafonisi 1300 dr).The selwice builds up 缶om three thnes a week to daily in June ・ through Septernber. 「 ravel agents around (one hou■

wn Oger excursions to ancient Lissos(6500 dr)and dolphin― watching trips(3500 dr). tOヽ

力″ α (Sheep'S milk rabbit SteWed in″ ッZ′ ′ chccse)and stumcd zucchini nOwers.Head

AROUND PAL10HORA

west out of Paleohora along the coast road 5krn west of Paleohora and you'!i sec the

PaleOhOra and cOntainsthe Church ofAgios

restaurant on the right.It's open 7 pnlto l anl daily April to()ctober

Thc village of Anidri is 5km north‐

east of

Georgios with 14th― century'escocs by the ´ 10cal 11laster, PagOrnenos. 「 he founding

fathers of the village were two brothcrs

iom Hora sfakion neeing ioin a murder_

Entertainntent Most visitors to Paleohora spend at least ― vell― signposted ο″′ one evening at the 、 ″οο′ ″′″,α .Anothcr option for a night `′ ιο力ο″ α,お ,next to Camping out is Pα ′

Ous vendetta which is why most villagers have the same surnarne. The vinage is accessible by f。 。t,。 m PaleohOra.Take the road that goes past the carnping grounds and lollow the paved road

Paleohora l.5km north`οoftown.If you've

that forks ofFto the le■ ,which is bordered by

seen the inovic and don't fancy the trek to the disco,try′ Viο s′οs A4′g力 r(デ ′ b right in

“ the()ld town,between EI Venizelou and

steep rocks.As you enter the village lyou'11 see a sign directing you to the Anidri Gorge. A■ er a few hundred metres on a footpath

Harbour.

yOu'1l sec an overgrown path on the le■

.

Selino Province― Cavdos:s:and 139

VVhat To VVear? ferent customs.Although Creek wOrnen are unlikely to go topless,in most places toPless sun‐ bathing is a‖ ovved.The few sOuth cOast beaches where itis frovvned upon POSt signs to that

effect Although naturisnl is not widely practised and officia‖

y is not a‖ owed,you'11 find a Sprinkllng Of naturiStS On the far endS Of renlote beaches orin secluded coves.Nude beaches change frolnl year to year S。 lrnetinles a taverna suddenly springs up()nap(,pular naturist

beach and the naturists disappear only to turn uP 10n another distant cove.Beaches that are Currently pOpular With naturists include lく ornrnos near Matala,Sweetヽ Vater Beach,the south

end lofthe sandy beach in PaleOhOra and the east end Of the pebbly beach at Sougla (〕 lyka Nera,close to Loutro is an old standby as is()rthi Ammos lkm east of Frangokaste‖ o Dik‐ tikos west of Lendas is the rriost reliable of Crete's nude beaches.

西 凸 匹 些 西 亜 瞼 凸 凸 些 些 Rcd nlarkers direct yOu tO the gOrge.After 、 valking a10ng the dried― Out riverbed,signs direct you to the 、′ ide, deserted Anidri 13each atthe end ofthe gOrge ヽ can take a different path back to PaleOhOra`ou f0110wing thc E4:European footpath inarkers that take you along the coastal clifls.

that arc widespread but Often shut do、 vn at

night becausc Ofthe noise. The capital ofthe isiand is Iく astri in the

centre ofGavdos which is where you'1l find the only post oficc,()TE,doctor and police officer.・

I｀

he best beach is Sarakinikos,in the

north― cast corner,、 vhich has a、 vide s、 vathe

of sand and several tavernas on thc side.

GAVDOS ISLAND Nlσ oS「 α6δ oS

1｀

hcrc's also another excellent bcach,Agios

● 0149 ● PoP 50 Gavdos lsiand(Gav― dos),in the Libyan Sea,

loannis, on the northern tip, which has a scraggly sulminer settlernent of canlpers.

65krn from IPaleohora,is the n10st sOutheriy

There are some wonderful beaches on the north cOast such as POtan10s and Pirgos

place in Europe.Archaeological excavatiOns indicatc habitatiOn as far back as the Tヽ

leo―

lithic period.In the Greco― Rorllan era(〕

av―

dos lsiand belonged tO the city Of(〕 。1lyn

whcn it was known as Clauda.There was a Roman settlement on the no■

h―

west colmer

ofthe island.On his way'om Kali Limenes

hich you can reach by loot florn Kastri if 11。 w the f。 。 tpath leading north nrorn Ainbelos.1｀ here arc no hoteis but several of the locals let rooms,and there are tavernas. ´ 「 here is no o■lcial camp site but cainping vν

you l。

ieelance may be tolerated.Fishermen iom

to Rome,St Paul encountered a nerce storin ′ 、 、 hich blew him ofF course past(〕 avdOs ls― ′ land and ended up ship、 、 recked on ヽ4alta, instead of a landing on Phoenix(or Finix). しInder the Byzantines(:〕 avdOs lsiand was the seat of bishopric, but when the Arabs

(1)avdos lsland take tourists to the ren10te, uninhabited isiand Of(〕 avdOpOula.´ rhe best

conquered Crete in the 9th century thc isiand became a piratcs nest.

A snlall post boat operates bet、 veen Paleo―

A severe water sho■ agc has linlited de― velopment ofthe isiand.Rain water、 vashes into the sea and the Greek government has had to fund proJects drilling for ground― wtten Visitors need tO be aware that water ′ is scarce;forget about 10ng shO、 へ ers,Or any

source of information about the isiand is lnterkreta´ 「 Ourisnl&′ ravel in PalechOra. T｀

Cetting There&Away hora and(3avdos on Monday and´ rhursday all year,weather perlllitting.It leaves Pale―

ohora at 8.30 am and takes about four hOurs (3000 dr). In sunllner there's alsO a′ ruesday bOat.

The boats turn around iom Gavdos almost immediately.There's alsO twO bOtts a week

sho、 vers at all in sornc places.:Electricity is

also linlitcd since it conles fronl generators

a'onl weekly dr). dr)and Horaboat'om SfakionSougia(2300 to Gavdos(2650

〓 ＞ 〓 一＞

Cretans have a long tradition of welcoming fOreigners,vvhich has rnade thern tolerant of dif―

140 Kissanlos Province―

IKissan■ os

Kastel:i‐

Kissamos

Province

The Kissamos region in the far west is a

seat of a bishopric undcr thc lByzantines.It was occupied by the STaccns in the 9th cen‐ tury and 110urished under the Venetians.

wild,rugged land that attracts few tourists.

Villages and tOwns are few and far between and eVen the spectacular beaches of lEla―

fonisi and Falassarna are surprisingly under_devc10pcd.・ r'he largesttown and cap_ ital of the province is KastellilKissanlos,

0)rientation&]nformation The portis 3km west oftown.In summer a bus meets the boats,othenvise a taxi costs 800 dr.The bus station is just below the square,Plateia Kissamos,and the nlain street,

usuany retrred to simply as Kissamos.

Skalidi,runs east'om Plateia Kissamos.The

VViest of lKissamos is the beautifbl and de―

post ofnce is on the main road.signs fIorn the

serted Granlvousa Peninsula,rnOst Ofwhich is accessible on!y by boat.East ofKissamos is the lRodhopou Peninsula with the sinall

bus station direct you through an alley on the right of Skalidi、 vhich takes yOu tO the post

resort of Kolilnbari and several interesting villages and churches that are only access―

ible ifyou have your Own wheels.

ofnce.Tunlright atthe post omce and you'11 come to the Nttional Bank of Greece which is on the central square..I｀urn left at the post

ofnce and the C)・ E ofnce is opposite you about 50m along the rnain road.´ 「 here is also a string of pensions and tavernas along the I｀

KASTILL卜 KISSAMOS Kα στ λt― K〔 σoα μ09

sea below the bus station.Kastelli‐

Kissamos

● pop 3000 '0822 1fyou ind yourselfin the north cOasttOwn of Iく astelll― Iく issamos,yOu've prObably ar― riVed by ferry f10■ l the Peloponnese or

has no tourist ogice but Hore■ akis TOurs .23 250)on Skalidi is a good source of

Kythira. The most remarkable part of

PlaCeS t(D Stay Camping There are three camp sitcs tO choose iom.Cα ″P′ ″g FFssα ″ο s r・ 23

1口

`λ

Kastclli‐ :Kissanlos is its unrenlarkableness.

It's sinlply a quiet tOwn Of mOstly elderly residents that neither expects nOr aliracts nluch tourism_

In antiquity,its name was Kissamos,the rnain to、 ′ n of the province of the sarne narne.When the Venetians carne along and built a castlc here,the place became lくnO、 vn as Iく astclll.「 he nanle persisted until 1966 when authorities decided thattoo■ lany peo‐ ple were confusing this Kastelli with Crete's other Kastelli, 40km south‐ east of iraklio. The ol■ ciai name reverted to Kissamos,and

(1日

infornlation.

イイイ/32″ ,CloSe

the city centre.

A much bctter choice is Ca″ ″′ ″g /イ イ 3ノ イ イイ 〃,6km west of

I｀

vhat that's 、

appears on bus and shipping

schedules.Local people still prefer iく

astelli,

and many books and nlaps agree with theril. An alternative that is emerging is tO cOm‐ bine the two into Kastelll‐

Kissamos,which

ieaves nO rOOrn fOr rnisunderstanding. Ancient K:issanlos、 vas a harbour for the important cil/― stae ofPolyrrinia 7km inland.

Vestiges of Roman buildings have been un― earthed bm mOst Ofthe ancient ci,lieS under the modenlto、 vn ofIく issan10s and cannOt be

excavated.Kissamos achieved independence in the third century AI)and then becanle the

tO the Ci,Centre,iS COn―

venient for the huge supeririarket next door and for the bus station,but not nluch else. It's got great views ofthe olive― processing plant next doOr.Signs dircct you there fiorn

ル″″′ ″″α r官

town. It's an excellent shady site near the best stretch of beach. Facilities include a

restaurant,bar and shop.It charges 900 dr per person and 600 dr per tent.It alsO has roorns to rent nearby.(:)etting there involves either a 4krn lⅣ alk along the beach,Or a bus

trip to the village ofDrapania-1lonl where it's a pleasant 15‐ nlinute、 valk through Olive

g Nο P′ g′ αr・ 3′ P′ ″ “ site,2km west of 〃〃 is another good Camping Mithirnna.The only drawback is thatthe beach is no good for s、 vimnling,but groves to the site.Gα

it nlakes up lor that、 vith a swilnrning p001.

Domatia()ne ofthe best deals in tOwn is ″sο ″″″″おRο ο″′ sr● 237J3ο ″22θ 6イソ “

Xiο

Kissanlos Province― Around Kaste!li‐ Kissamos 141

attaCent tO the buS Station.The spotless roorns are 4000/5500 dri■ ′ ith private bath―

room.Opposite,the C‐ ciass И′ gο Rο ο ″s ノ♭′R`″ ′r● 23563/322ソ ,on Plateia Te10niOu,has spacious roorns for 5000/7000 dr

ヽ′ ith private bathroorn_ Frorrl the central ′ square,、 、 alk dO、 vn to the sea(1。 nt,turn lent, and you、 ′ ili come tO the rOOnls On the le■ (1)n the beach,ハイ ″ィッなィ 4′ α ″ ′ ″′″ 22 `sr● of ∂′θ,′7χ 22∂ 2〃 iS a White StuCCo house .

lα

studios、 vith balconies and vie、 vs ofthe sea.

Studios cost 12,000 dr.

Hoteis The C‐

5100 dr).It lcavcs Kastelli‐ Kissamos at 2.30 prn Monday and Thursday. BOth the Miras agent,Horeiakis TOurs(● 23250),

andthe ANEK Omce(雪 22 009 or 24 030) are on the right side of Skalidi, cast Of Plateia Kissanlos.

Gel‖ :ing

Around

Motorcycles can be hired from Motor Fun (管 23400)on Plateia Kissamos md cas can be hired lrom Hermes(● 22980)on Skalidi.

AROUND KASTELL卜 KiSSAMOS

class ffb′

′′κFssα l“ οs r・ 22

θ∂6り ,1″ eSt Of the buS StatiOn On the no■ h side Of the main rOad, is in an uninspiring location acrossう rOrn an auto body shop but

The ruins of the ancient city of Polyrrinia (Po卜 ce― ren‐ ee― a)lie 7km south of Kaste‖

i―

Kissanlos,above the village ofAno Paleo― kaStrO(SOmCtimeS Ca‖ ed P。 lyrrinia)It'Sa

has roonls 、 vith private bathroom for

steep clinlb to thc ruins but the views are

5500ノ 7700 dr, including breakfast. ″ο ′ ′′ Gα s′ ′ ′ イの has similar prices. `′ ″ο″′ P′′ J`・ 2322〃 iS a freShly rCnOVated hotel on theヽ vaterfiont about 500■ 1、 vest of

stunning and the region is blanketed with wildnowers in spring.The city was founded by thc I)orians in the 6th century lBC and ν ゞ as constantly at war with the Kydonians

town、 ′ ith roorns for 7000/10,000 dr.AIso right On the Sea iS″ ο ″″α ッJり 〃οr″ ρ 23 イ∂の With rOOmSお r abOut the Same price.

the warrior‐

F22′

,om Hania.COins iOm the periOd depict goddess Athena who Ⅵ'as evi―

dently revered by the、 ′ ar― like P。 lyrrinians.

Unlike

Places to Eat

their

∼ rivals the

Kidonians,

Roorns for Rcnt, has a good setting over_ looking the beach and serves wcll― prepared

Polyrrinia did not resistthe Ronnan invasion and thus、 vas spared destructiOn.It was the best fonined t。 、 vn in crete and thc adnlin_ istrativc centre Of、vestern Crete,Onl the

fOOd.It's open ll am to inidnight daily.For iOcal colour go to the n。 _frilis」 R′ sra“ ″ α″r

Roman through to the Byzantine period.It ヽ vas reoccupied by the Venetians who used

″α あ ″αs,just west ofPlateia Kissamos, “ an excellent meal of crisply fricd v′ hcre ′ 、 、 hitebait and(3reek salad costs 1800 dr.

date'onl thc Roman period including an

PαPα ″α ルお 7レ ッ′′ ″α,

opposite the Argo

it as a fortress.Many ofthe ruined structures aqueduct built by Hadrian.

The mostimpressive tamκ

It'S Open noon to 10 pnl daily.Another good

ο′ ■,wcst of the bus station,

Ofthe site is

、 vhich has a good sclectiOn Of daily spe―

the acropolis built by the Byzantincs and ｀ vienetians.`「 hcre's alsO a church built On the

cials,and is open noon to rllidnight Monday to Saturday.

foundaions of a Henenistic temple彙 。m the 4th century BC.Notice also,near the aque―

place is the SI′

Getting There&Away Bus There are 13 buses a day to Hania(One hOu■ 900 dr),Where yOu Can Change 10r Rethyrnno and lraklio;and t、 vo buses a day

おr

Falぉ sama(600

dr)at10 am md5.30 pm.

Ferry(〕 olden Ferries Maritinle operates the

α″」 α on a route that takes in An― tikythira(two hours,2100 dr),Kythira(お ur F/BI ,Lイ

hours,4200 dr), and Gythio(seven hours,

duct,a cave dedicated to thc lヽ IylΥ lphs that still contains the niches lorthe lヽlyrnphs statuetes.

Cetting There&Away lt's a scenic、 valk fionl lく astelll― Klissanlos to

・ Polyrrinia. 「 o reach the POlyrrinia rOad, walk east along KasteHi― Kissamos'main road,and turn right a■ erthe OTE.There are tヽ

Vo buses daily in winter and a bus Mon―

day,Wednesday,and Friday in summer(25 minutes,400 dr).

142 Kissanlos Province― Rodhopou Peninsula

THE R(0)DH(0)POU PENINSuLA

〓く〓 く“

′ 「 he barren,rocky Rodhopou Peninsula has a fe、v

snlall villages clustered at the base of

the peninsula but the rest is uninhabited.A paved road goes as far as Afrata butthen be‐

cornes a dirt track that ineanders through the peninsula.Ifyou are travelling by foot,

jeep or motorcycle you can re¨ h the Dik― tynna Sanctuary at the end ofthe peninsula, but rnake sure yOu are well‐ supplied since there is not a drop ofgasoline or water,or a

morsel of food beyond Aiata.

KOLIMBARI

cialities.There's also a inini rnarket nearthe bus stop lor self‐ catcring.

Cetting There&Away Buses iom Hania to Kastelll‐ Kissamos stop at Kolimbari(40 minutes,550 dr).

Moni Conia Moni(1)onia was founded in 1618_Although the 17th― century nlonastery church Was darnaged by the l｀ urks in 1645, it was rc― built in 1662 and extended in the 19th cen― ´ tury. rhe inonastery hOuses a unique c011ectiOn Oficons datillg flonl the 1 7th and

電 0824 0 poP 151

1 8th centuries. Some are in the church

Kolimbari,23km west of Hania,is at the

while others are in the nlonastery nluseunl.

:「

base ofthe Rodhopou Peninsula,and appeals

The mOst valuable icon is that of Agios

to those seeking a quiet,rclaxing vacation. Developrnent is in its enlbryonic stage but that is changing fast as hotels and donlatia

Nikolaos,painted in 1637 by Palaiokapas,

which perfectly cxemplines the cretan

bcach.In addition to beach activities,Koliin‐

schOol oficon painting that flourished in the ´ /ienetian rule. 「 hc 17th century under ｀ nlonastery is open 8 anl to 12.30 prn and 4

bariis a gOod base for a walk to Moni Gonia.

to 8 prn Monday to Friday;4 to 8 prn on

arisc to takc advantage of the long pebbly

0『 ientatlon&Inforrnation

The bus,om Hania drops you off on the main road iom which it is a 500m walk doぃ ′ n to the beach se■ lement.Atthe bo■ oln

ofthe road you'1l see a post ofice on the left;turn len and the OTE is about 100in ■1lther´ 「 hereis no bank but you can change ´

ravel rnoney and rent cars at Antilia Agency(● 22695)which is open 9 am■ o7 I｀

prn Monday to Saturday Aprilto Novenlbcr.

Places to Stay& [at On the way into town■ oin the bus stop you will sec Rο ο″s二 0敏 ar● 222ノ 〃 which has attractive roorns for 6000/7000 dr.´ hc best ッ clloice along the beach is lriο ′ ″ィ′ ″ `′ ` `′ which has iarge rooms with 22イ I｀

i′

∂,九 kitchenettes and balconies lor 10,000 dr. They also have t、 vo‐ bedroonl apartments r・

Diktynna Right on the tip ofthe Rodhopou lPeninsula is the renlains ofa teinple to the Cretan god―

dess E)iktynna, the most important re― ligious sanctuary in the region under the Romans.Diktynna was the goddess ofhunt― ing and she was、 vorshipped fervently in 、 vestern Crete. According to legend her name derives from the word″ たクο″which vas a fisher‐ nleans `net'. Supposedly it 、 nlan's netthatsaved her when shc lcaptinto the sea tO av。 ld the anlorous deslres ofKing

ヽ4inos.The tenlple dates to the 2nd century AI)but it、 vas probably built on thc site of an earlier temple.After the collapse of the

Roman Empire the temple was desecrated

for 14,000 dr. Iく

Saturday.・「 here is no adrnisslon charge.It's ´ easy tO reach frorn Kolinlbari. rake the vn centre fOr beach road north nroni the t。 、 about 500rn.

olinlbari is a good place to sanlple local

′α and ish.In the centre oftown are D′ ル′ “ И′ ,across the street nronl each other, ig′ J″ α which offer nresh fish fOr abOut 9ooo dr ´ a ki!。 . 「 hey are open 6 prn to rnidnight

but yOu can see the temple's foundations and a sacrincial altar as well as Rornan cis‐

Monday to Saturday.Along the beach,try

terns.If you're`tenlpled out'you can relax On a 10vely sandy beach.I)iktynna is only accessible by din road iom Kolimbari but iriany travel agencics in Hania offer boat

7レ ッ ″αン 4″ ″ο ″′ ′ ″αfor(3retan ι′

cxcursions to Diktynna lor 6000 d「

￨″

taverna spe―

Kissanlos Province― Pa:assarna 143

FALASSARNA Φαλασdpvα ● 0822 e pop 24 Falassarna, 16km to the、 vest of Kastelli― Kissanlos,has been occupied at least since

First you'1l conlc to a large stone throne

、 vhose purpose has renlained obscure.Fur‐

the 6th century lB(〕 but reached the height of

ther on there are the remains ofthe wallthat once fortifled the town and a srnall harbou■ Notice the holes carved into thc wall which

its power in the 4th century BC_Although

were used to tie up boats.Atthe top ofthe

it、 vas

built ncxt to the sea lyou wili sec that

the town's ruins are about 400m away■

om

the water because the wcsterll cOast Of([〕

rete

has risen over the centuries.ThetOwn Owed

hili there are the remains of the acropolis wall and a tenlple as well as four clay baths.

Places to Stay

was the west coast harbour for P。 lyrrinia

・ 「 here are numerOus places fOr wild carnp‐ ing on Falassama's beaches.At the northern end s″ ″sar R`″ ′Rο ο ″sr富 ィ′2θ ィ リo‐ 価ers

its wealth to the agricultural prOduce de― rived,Om the fenile va‖ ey tO the sOuth.It but later becaine Polyrrinia's chiefriva1 lor

excellent value.′ I'here are ive‐ person apart‐

dominance over western Crete.By the time

nlents for 12,000 dr and doubles with bal―

ofthe Roman invasion of Crete in 67 BC,

conles and sea vle、 ′ s for 6000 dr.「 he

Falassarna had become a haven for pirates. Stone blocks excavated around the entrance to the old harbour indicate thatthe Romans

establishment is near the beach and has a taverna doν vnstairs. 1ヽ learby is Rο ο″s И α″α′′ r● 22 θθ〃 which also omers "′ double roorns with a vie、 v lor about thc `“

nlay have tried to block off the harbour to prevent it nrorn being used by pirates.

You can see the renlains of the ancient city,but nlost people head to Falassarlla for its superb beaches.´ hc best beach is 3knl of 「

ine sand bordered by a few tavernas and

hotels.In front of the ancient tO、

vn there is

a slnall pebbly beach and there is a third ′ beach be‖ een the t、 、 o ofthem. 0『 lentation&Information

Approaching Falassarna nrom the rnain road,the road forks to the no■

h and to the

south.´ 「 he northern road takes you to the

beaches that go on for several kilornetres separated only by rocks. 1｀ he beaches are shadeless but you can rent unlbrellas and lounge chairs. Most of the hotels and do― matia are at this end ofto、 vn.´ 「 he southcrn road takes you past a long strip of green―

hOuses and sOrne gOat pastures. ヽ rOu 、 vill also see signs to ancient Falassarna.There

is no post ofnce,()TE,tourist ofice or

saine pricc.A littlc further ioin the beach is

И′α′ ′ ″′″お Rο ″α″′ ′ ca r・ イfθ ∂〃 which has studios and apartrnents for 7000 dr and 10,000d● On the、 vay into to、 ス ′ n you'll pass Rο ο″s′ ,′ Rι ″r Pα ″ο′ α″α r・ ィ′33の which has beautinul roorns lor 7000/8000 dr and also a taverna that serves a null array of Cretan specialties as 、 vell as onlelettes, burgers and spaghetti.

Cetting There&Away ln summer there are two buses a day'om to Falassarna(600d→ as

Kastelli― Kissamos

well astwo buses a day'om Hania(1500 do.

GRAMVOuSA PENINSULA Xε pσ 6vη lヽ

OOS「 pα μβ06oα

lolllh of Falassarna is the wild and rernote

Gramvousa Peninsula.There is a wide track,

、 vhich eventually degenerates into a

path,along the east coast side to the sandy

travel agency

beach of Baios on(Cape Tigani,on the west side of the peninsula's narrov′ tip. Bchind the beach is Mt(:〕 eroskinos and offt,hore

Things to See ´

are two deserted islands,Agria(wild)and

I｀

he renlains of the ancient city of Falas―

lmeri(tame)Gramvousa.The dirt road to

sarna are the city's nlain attraction,

([〕

although not rnuch is visible. Signs direct you to the ancient city lrom the main road,

eastern slope of Mt(]eroskinos.´

following a dirt road at the end Of the

are spectacular over the shoreline and the

asphalt.

Rodhopou Peninsula. About 2knl before

ape Tigani begins at the far end of the main street of Kalyviani and follows the

Thc vicws

144 Kissannos Province―

Elafonisi

the beach the dirt road becornes a path.()ne fork takes you to the beach while the other

fork runs along the side of the nlountain ´ and eventually joins the beach path. 「 he shadeless、 valk takes around three hours― wear a hat and take l)lenty of water The oi麟shore island of lmeri(Gramvousa

eX■ emi,OfCrete'S WeSt COaSt・ The beaCh iS

long and wide and is separated'om the Ela‐ fbnisilsiet by about 50nl ofknee‐ deep water

on its northem side.The cica,shanow water and ine whitc sand create the kind oftrop― ical paradise not oncn found in the Mediter―

rancan. There are a few snack bars on the

was an important vantage point lor the

beach near、 vhere the road ends and stalls to

｀ 4cnetians who built a lo口 iress herc to pro‐ 、

rcnt ulmbrcllas and lounge chairs.The islet is

tect ships passing in nront of the isiand on

lllarked by low dunes and a string of semi‐ secluded coves that attract a sprinkling of naturists.´ he beaches are popular with day― 「

the way to and iom Venice.It was consid― ered an impregnable lo■ with a large cache

of armaments.The Turks did not conquer lmeri Grainvousa along with the rest of

trippers but there are two snlall hoteis and a

pension on a bluff overlooking the nlain beach forthose who wantto luxuriate in the

Crete in 1645;the fo■ remained in Venet‐ vith their other forts, ian hands along 、

quiet that descends on Elafonisi in iate alF

Souda and Spinalonga. Eventually the

tenloon.All have roorns for 5000/7000 dr

ienetians ieft and the fort fell into disuse

until it was taken over in 1821 by Cretan revolutionaries、 vho needed a base of oper― ations in their war for independence.It iater

becanle a notorious base for piracy before the Turks got a hold ofit again and used it to blockade the coast during the War ofin‐ dependence.Locallegend has it thattlle pir‐ ates arnassed a fabulous foltune which they

reportedly hid in caves around the isiand. Who lknows?It could stili be there today.

Cetting There&Away ´

1lo reach Iく :alyviani,take a west‐ bound bus iom Kastelll‐ Kissamos and ask to be let or

at the turn‐ off to the right for the village of

with private bath and there is a mini nlarket

neaby.Try Rο ο″sE′ 4ル ″′ ss′ r● 6′ 27り which has an outdoor patio;Rο ο″sE′ α‐ ssο s r● 6′ 29り which has a tavema ′,″ ′ ,

overlooking the sea,仕 om its conlrnanding position on a bluff;or r″ α力ο′′ ο ″ 6′ ノ ノノ ・ ノ There are two boats a day'oln Paleohora `●

(onc hour,1140 dr)in summer,as well as daily buses iom Hania(2%hours,1500 dr)

Kissamos(1%hours,900 dr). The buses leave Hania at 7.30 anl and and Kastelll‐ Klastelli‐

:Kissarnos at 8.30 anl,and both de‐

pa■ 6rom Elafonisi at 4 pm.The ina1 5kin

of road fionl Moni Hrysoskalitissas to the beach is unpaved.

Kalyviani(5km■ om Kasteni― Kissamos).

MON:HRYSOSKALITiSSAS

Kalyvianiis a 2km walk,om the main road.

Movl:XpDσ

X&K Maritime Company r● 2イ 3イ イο″ 2365θり ,in Kastelli‐ Kissamos,runs a tour that takes in the Granlvousa Peninsula,

which is inaccessible by car, and irneri ramvousa.White sand beaches,a clirnb to the top ofthe Venetian castle and the cove wherc Princc Charles and Diana rcponcdly (1〕

τtσ σαq oσ καλ〔 Moni Hrysoskalitissas(Mo‐ nee Hris‐

os‐ka‐

as), 5km north of Elafonisi, is inhabited by two nuns. It's a beautiful monastery perched on a rock high above the sea. Hrysoskalitissas means `golden iee‐ tiss‐

staircase'and the nanle derives from a leg‐ cnd whicll clairns that one of the 90 stcps

open from 9.30 arn Monday to Saturday

ieading up,om the sea to the monastery is inade of gold but you can only see itifyou

April toく )ctobet´ 「 he tour costs 5000 dr

are pure in splrlt.

ELAFONiSi Eλ αφov`ot

allegedly a thousand ycars old and may

As one ofthe loveliest sand beaches in Crete

have been bullt on the site ofa Minoan tern‐ ple.´ here are tavernas and dornatia in the 「 vicinity.Buses to lElafonisi drop passengers

honeyrnooned are also on the itinerary.It is

● 0825

it's easy to understand why people enthuse so nluch about Elafonisi, at the southern

The church is recent butthe rnonastery is

here.

Kissamos Province― Ennia HOria 145

■NN:A

HOR:A EVVLd Xω pld

Ennia Horia(nine villages)is the name given to the highly scenic n10untainous re‐ gion south of Kastelli‐ KissainOs,which is reno、 vned for its chestnut trees.

lf you have yOur Own transpoit you can driVe thrOugh the region en route to Moni HrySoskalitissas and Elafonisi Or, with a little back― tracking,tO Paleohora. Alternatively, yOu can take a circular route,returning via the cOast rOad.

´ lage garden. 「 he stOne cottages rent fOr 13,000 dr and have rnOdern bathroorns with

Warm,S01ar‐ heated water Call● 0822-51 569 for reservatiOns and infornlation.The rocky 5krn rOad betヽ veen Vlatos and Milia is best suited tO ajcep

The road sOuth fronl Vlatos passes through chestnut trees which is the inaJOr crop of the region. E!os is the regiOn's iargest to、 vn and the centre of its chestnut

trade.In fact it stages a chestnut festival on

1-leading SOuth from Kissainos you'11

the third Sunday of(Dctober、

vhen sヽ

weets

pass thrOugh sorne ofthe lushest and nlost

made iom chestnuts are eaten.The plane,

fertile parts ofthe isiand.・ 「 hc scenery is un‐ forge■ able and you'1l be far away nrom the tourist track.

cucalyptus and chestnut trces around the

｀ Fou'11■ rst cOrne tO the village Ofヽ ′ Oul‐

garo which has twO IByzantine churches, and then 3km further sOuth the lovely vil―

lage of T10polia with a cluster of、

vhite‐

washed houses overhung 、 vith plants and

nlain square nlake lE〕 los a cool and relaxing

stop.Behind the taverna on the main square you'II see the renlains Of the aqueduct that once brought、 vatcr dOwn lroin the rnoun‐ ´ tains to pOwer the inlll. 「 he only accOrn‐ inodatiOn is 71″ ッ ″α α″′ R′ ″′Rο ο″s `′ FOル ο ′ αルおrな θ ∂22-6ノ 25o which has dou―

vines.・ hcre is a pOst Oficc in the town cen‐

blcs for 5000 dr and scrunlptious food in the

trc,a couple ofkaineia and 71,Pο

taverlla.

I｀

r●

′ ′ αRο ο″s

θ∂22-5/273,,a new domatia with irOn

balconies for 5000/6000 dr. Aier Tlopolia the road skirts the cdge Of

the KOutSomatados Ravine bending and t、 ′ isting

and aff10rding drarnatic vic、 vs.Just

Continuing sOuth yOu'1l pass the atinos― phcric village of Pervolia and then cOme to

Kefali 、′ ith its 1 4th― century frescoed church. The Only place tO stay and eat is 7bッ ι ″ ″αfb′α″′ s rtt θ∂22-6ノ 26の which

αε″bα ′on the left which is a g00d place to fuel up and take a photo ofthe ravine.Shortly yOu will

haS rOOrnS with vie、 vs for 5000 dr.・ Ilaking

come to a cave, Agia Sofia, which dates

coastal vieⅥ ′ s un101ding ai■ er eveつ ′bend in

before the tunnelthere is a s″

back to thc Neolithic era.At the tOp ofthc rock― cut stairs tO the cavc there's a taverna

、′ ith great views Overthe ravine.It's a spec― tacular drive tO tiny l(outsomatados fol― 10ヽ Ved by the villagc of Vlatos. After the

thC COastal road'om Kefali you wili be

winding arOund cliffs with magnincent the road. [)rive carefully because thc road changes

abruptly iOm wide and paved to narrow and unpaved.This is One ofthe rnost scenic drives in Cretc.ヽlou'1l pass the little hanllet

village you'1l see a turn‐ off on the right 10r

of Papadiana driving a10ng the gorge and

Mi‖ a.

clilnbing intO the n10untains belore corning

A few years agO,the only t、 vO families ien in this is。 latcd village nlanaged to per_

to メ ヽ midagakofel!i 、 vhich has beautiful sweeping sea views from a bluff Outside

suade thc EU to help theni reconstruct the

town.About 50 minutcs iom Keね li

village in its Original style using traditiOnal

come to Kalmbos a tiny village on the edge of a gOrge.It makes a good overnight stop since yOu can hike do、vn the gOrge tO the beach.

materials and nurnishing it with(〕 retan an_ tiques.The rebuilt s′ ο″′″ο″s′ s are occa―

sionally rentcd out tO Cretans or tourists Who are 100king fOrtOtalisolation in a stun―

ning nlountain setting and don't mind the lack of electricity.´

α″ ヵ′ rcヵ

c′ `′

I｀

here's also a traditional

turning Out scrunlptiOus `″

dishes lrom the Organic prOduce in the vil_

you'11

For accornrnOdation there is the new S″ ″s′ ′Rο ο″s r・ θ∂22-ィ ノ ′ 2∂ , with freshly built r。 。nls and a taverna and als。

月【 ″′ 々″″″お R`″ ′Rο ο″sr・ θ∂22-ィ ノィィ″ ・ Both have roorns for 4000/5000 dr. 「 he .

146 Kissamos Province― Ennia Horia

road then circles around the other side of

″α D′ ′ ′ 7を ッ ′′ "α

fOr g00d fresh ish.Aier

malTed by greenhouses on the northern end

Sinari you'1l get more coastal views belore the road drops down to P:atanos,a quiettrec― lined toヽ vn of whiteヽ vaShed houses and el‐

but has a gravelly cove on the southern end.

derly residents.

There are a lot of places for nreelance camping.For accommodttion try Rο ο″s

restaurant Ozα 力″′ s which serves local

θ5り atWO‐ StOrCy 822-イ ′′ ″αr● θ ハ ′′

winc and fiesh nish'αon an outd00r terracc

he vil‐ the gorge cutting inland to Sfinari.´ lage stretches do、 vn to the beach which is :『

build―

`′ ing with 10vely views.Rooms cost

YOu can stop for refieshnlents at the

5000/7000d■ Opposite is Rο ο″s.力 ′R′ ″′ g′ ar● θ ∂22-イ ノ62〃 which has rooms ″ cι ο

under the trecs.Ifyく )u need a cash infusion there'san A「 M on the right as you leave the tOwn and across the street there's ROο ″s

fOr the sarne price.Along the beach try the

822-イ ′37〃 Gα srrο r● θ

I｀

.

Rethymno HIGHLIGHTS

RethymnO is Crete's most mOuntainous pre― fecture containing Mt Psiloritis in the east and bOrdcred by the Lefka C)ri in the west. Since inost ofthe prefecture is composed Of

・ Stro‖ ing the maze of narrow streets in Rethyrnno's Vё netian quarter

balTen mOuntainS and hilis,only 537 sq krn are cultivated out ofthc 1496 sq knl in the

prefecture.The rocky reg10n is pertctお r livestOck which is the nlain Occupation of Rethyrnn。 ,althOugh 01ives and。 live Oil are also produced.

The prefecturc is divided into four provinces:Rethymno,with Rethymno town

・ Exploring the unspoilt villages of the Amari Va‖ ey ・ Coo‖ ng off by the water wheels of Agriroupolis O Hitting the northern cOastal resorts of

Bali and Panornlo

as its capital;Agios Vasile10s,with its cap‐

ital at Spili, the COaStal resorts of Agia alini and Plakias,as well as Moni Preveli; Anlari with its capital at the to、 vn of the (:〕

sanle narne; and, Mylopotamos, with its capital at Peranla,which includes the north―

ern COastal resorts of PanOrinOs and Bali, and the iniand towns of Anogia and Zoni― ana,as well as the ldeon(E)ave.

RETHYMNO P6oOμ v。 11「

0831 0 postcode 741 00 o pop 24,000

Rethymno(Reth―

im― no)is Crete's third― largest town.The rnain atraction is the。 ld ヽienetian‐ 0■ Oman qua■ er that occupies the

headland beneath the massive lゾ

ienetian

たZZα (お rtreSS). 力′

The old quarter is a maze of narrow

strects, gracenul

些 些 些

、 v。 。 d_balconied houses

and ornate Vcnetian mOnurnents, with

has iots of ruins tO exp10re.Pride of place arnong the rnany vestiges Of｀ enetian rule

rninarets adding a touch of the(Dlrient.Ar‐ chitectural siinilarities invite cornparison

(彙 onl

with IIania,but RethyrnnO has a character ofits own and bOasts Ofbeing the rnOst cul―

turally aware city in Crete.The area Occu_ pies the headland nOrth Of I)irnakopoulou, which runs fronl lPlateia vardinogiannl on

(Great Gate),a remnant ofthe Venetian de‐

the、 vest cOast tO Plateia lroOn On the east

(becoming Gerakari en rOute). A 16th― century fOrtress stands

1210-1645,when the Turks took

oVer)goesto the Rimondi Fountain with its SpOuting lion heads, an(l the 16th― century Loggia.Atthe southern end OfEthnikis/ヽ n‐ tiStaSeos is thc well― preserved Porto Guora fensive wall.

H:story The name Rethymno means `streain Of

on

Palekastr0 1-1111,the site Ofthe city's ancient

acropolis. Many buildings once stOOd

water'and evidence nOw 10und in the city's archaeological m.usuem indicates that the site of modern Rethynlno has becn occu‐ pied since Late Minoan tinles. In the 3rd

within its massive walls but now Only a ´ church and a nlosque survive intact. 「 he rampa■ s ofner g。 。d views,while the site

147

148 Rethymno―

History

RETHYMNO REG10N

И″ ο s 3り I′

HANIA

ロ

A

◇

￨“ sa"暉 ■′

〔

:::::i::::::::::]:::::::::::::::,〕

L′ β yえ Ⅳ

SE4

and 4th ccntuties BC,｀ Rithynlna｀ cnlcrgcd as an autOn01ュ 10us statc()F sul｀ 1lcient stattlic

to issuc its own coinagc Ancicnt Rithynina probably la)tindcr i)alckastro Hill but its rc11lains 1lavc ncvcr bccn c、 cavatcd、 al― thollgh Rolllan lllosaics havc bcc11 1｀ otlnd

undcrncatll thc modcrn lown The to、 、 ll prospcrcd ollcc lll()rc underthc /clletialls,、 、 ,ho rtllcd i・ olll 1 2 1 0 tlnti1 1 645. ヽ

and llladc Rcthynlno int()an irnportant cOnlnlcrcial ccntrc bascd tlpoll thc cxport()「

、 vinc an(1()il ilo11l thc lcgioll The t()、 、n lndcr tllc ヽbnctialns lourisllcd artisticall、 し ′ and bcca11lc thc scat of aヽ cllctia1l Prcitct

]｀

/cilctians built a llarb()ur, he ヽ

lalldraki,

a1ld begaln fOrtiiving the lo、 vn in thc 16th centtlry against the gro、 ving thrcat flonn the Tulks l‐ hc bcst nlilitar)′ architcct ofthc cra, Sanllllicllcli dcsig,lcd thick outcr、 、alls of

、 、hic1l only tllc l)orto(jtlora survivcs The 、 、alls did inot stop thc city froin bcing sacI(cd b)′ the pirate Barbarossa in 1538 l llc VenetiaI)s thcll built the l)lassive vas Ortrcss On tl、 e hill、 tllat nevertheless 、 、ithstand thc´「 urkish assault of t1llablc to 、 l｀

1646, and collapsed allcr a 22 da) Sicgc ′ 、 as an i11lportant scat of gov― Rcthylmno 、 cl.111lcnt tlndci thc‐

rtirks but it、vas alsO a

RethyrnnO_(o)rientatiOn 149 centre of resistance to Turkish rule. ´he 「 Turks inflicted severe reprisals upon the tOWn fOritS rolC in the uprising of 1821 but the resistancc cOntinued.

´

urkiSh fOrCeS held the toヽ

Vn unti1 1897, ヽ Vhen itヽ Vas taken by Russia as partl of thc I｀

命om the expressway,your inal approach tO the City Centre is along Dimitrikaki■ om the south.´ 「 he parking lot opposite the park is

a convcnient spOt tO stOp and chcck things out.

OCCupatiOn Of Crete by the Great POwers.

inforrnation

ItethyrnnO becanle an artistic and intellec_ tual centre an‐ er the arrival of a large nurn_ ber Of renugeeS frOrll Smyrna in 1923.´ he

Tourist(OfFices Rethymno's municipal

City has a canlpus Of the University Of

tOurist omce(● 29148)is on the beach side of EI Venizelou,OppOsite the junction with lalergi.It's open 8 anlto 8 prn Monday tO

Crete, attracting a student pOpulation that

Friday in surnrner and 8 anl to 3 pnl in win‐

「

keeps the tOwn alive outside the tourist sca‐

son.

′

he city's Old qual■ er occupies the headland

north of DimakopOulou,which runs iom Plateia Vardinogiann1 0n th.e west cOast to

Plateia lr00n On thC eaSt(becoming Gera― kari en route).Most ofthe good places to eat and sleep are tO be fOund here, 、 vhile

banks and govemment seⅣ ices

ter.ThC tOurist police(電 .28 156)occupy the Same building and are open florn 7 anl to 10 pnl every day.

(0)rientat:on I｀

Iく

are just to

the south on the edge of the ne、 ヽ ′part of town. ・ 「 he beach is On the eastern side OftOwn,

curving arOund from the delightfu1 01d

｀ .4enetian harbOur in the north.Elヽ v4enizelou is the beachfiont street. Curving parallel

Money Banks are concentrated around the junction of E)irnokratias and Pav10u lく OuntOuriotou. 1｀ he National 13ank is On E)inlokratias,on the far side of thc square

Opposite the town hall.The Credit Bank (Paviou Kountouriotou 29)and thelヽ latiOnal Mortgage 13ank,next to the town hall,have 24-hour autonlatic exchange lllachines.

POSt&COmrnuniCatiOnS The OTE is at Kountouriotou 28,and the post onRce is a b10Ck south at Moatsou 21.In summerthere iS a n10biie ipost ofince about 200rn sOuth―

One b10Ck back is Arkadiou,the nlain cOrn‐

eaSt Of the tOurist ofince on E1 lν

mercial street.The old quarter's maze of

YOu Can CheCk your email at Net c@お

twisting and curving streets rnake it an easy

place tO get lost, especially sincc strect SignS are a rariり ・

Coming,Om the south,the best way tO

approach is through the Po■ lo〈]uOra onto ´ Ethnikis Antistaseos. 「 his busy shOpping Street leads to the Rinlondi Fountain, the old quarter's best knOwn iandlmark. ´he 「

a“a around here isthick with cats,restau← ants and sOuvenir shops.

If yOu arrive in RethylmlnO by bus,yOu will be drOpped at the new terminal at the ヽ Vestern end Of lgournenOu([〕 avril, about 600m WeSt Ofthe Po■ o Guora.TO get into tOヽ Vn,head eaSt On igouinenou(3avril back tOWardS the tOwn centre.A lei turn at the far end of thc Municipal Park will leave yOu faCing the Porto(3uora.IfyOu arrive by ferry,the Old quartcr is as far away as the

end ofthe quay.Ifyou are driving intO tOwn

ienize10u.

55133)Venieri 2,which is Open 10 am t0 10 pnl daily.Take Papandreou nrom El (●

Vienize10u cast Of Plateia lroon and you'll ind it behind the Elina Hotel.

Travel Agencies Ellotia Tours(● 24533, ねx51062,email elotia@ret.お u■ hnetgr), at Arkadiou 161,is a helpful ofnce that han― dles bOat and plane tickets,changes rnOney, rcnts cars and rnOtOr cycles and books ex―

CurSions. It's Open 9 anl to 9 pnl daily March to Novenlber. BookshoPS Thc lnternationaI Press B00k― ienize10u 81)stocks English nOv_ els, travel guides and history b00ks. ´he 「

shop(El

b00kShOp at Souliou 43 stocks nOveis in

English, b00ks abOut(Greece, tapes of ([〕

reek rnusic and has a srnall second― hand

section.

150 Rethynlno― Thingls to See

RETHYMNO ム

◇

SE4 0F C■ Z● 2

E=====翌 0 '知

里里里里

￨■

「

"″

￨

ヒニ1理 E

Laundry‐「 hc Laundry Mat scll scr、lcc lau1ldry at T()11lbazi 45, ncxt d()or to thc

・

「 llcrc arc als()solllc cxccllent cxal1lples Of blo、 、1l glass ilonl thc classical pcriod.

ヽasI) yOuth hOstcl, charges 2500 dr i'or a ヽ and dry

ヽ′ arious displays outlinc the history of archacological cxcavatiolls in tllc rcglon

Things to See

Tllc nnuseu11l is opcn 8 30 ain to 3 plll‐「 ucs― ,tO sundav `へ drnissio:lis 500 dr. da、

rhc Archaeo!ogica!lMIuseum(● 29975)is

′ as Oppositc thc entra1lcc t()the ibrtrcss andヽ 、 ´ once a prison 「 1lc cxhibits arcヽ vcll labcllcd in Ellglisll and co1ltain Ncolithic tools, Minoal、 pottery c、 cavated i｀ rolll nearby tonlbs,

lycenacall figtlrines and a lst―

ccntury― Al:)relicr of Aphroditc,asヽ an inlportalnt coin c()llectio11

VCll as

RcthynlnO's c、 ccllent Historical & Folk Art Museulml(Vcrnard()し 130)givcs an exccl― lc1lt Ovcrvic、 v oFthc rcgion's rural lifestylc 、 、 lt1l a collcctioll o「 old clotllcs, baskets, vilosc purposc 、 vcavings alld Farin tools 、 wOtlld rcmain obscurc il｀ thc cxhibits、vcrc n()t sO、

vc11 labcllcd it's Opcn 10 alll to 2 plll

ヽ40nday tO saturday /ヽ (lnnissioll is 500 dr

Rethyrnno― Trekking 151

RETHYMNO PIACES TO STAY 3

Pension Anna Rooms

8 Leteris Papadakis 10 Hotel ldeon

37 Gounakis Restaurant&Bar

40 Nendies Mosque

63

42 43

Fanari

OTHER

45 46

Katerina Karaoglani Melissa

Laundry Mat Happy VValker

ll Rooms to Rent Barbara Dolomaki 15 Hotel Fote2Za

4

32 ()lga's Pension

7

Notes

49 MuniciPal burist Off ce, Tourist Po‖ ce

12

Club 252

50

34

Hotel Veneto

38 Rent Rooms Gaden 41 Rooms for Rent Anda 44

Youth Hostel

48 Rent Rooms Sea View 62

Park Hotel

PLACES T(D EAT

l Sunset Restaurant&Bar 2

Taverna Castro

9 Famagousta 16

Taverna Pontios

17 Av‖ 19 31

■averna Kyria Maria Ste‖ a.s Kitchen

35 01d■ own Tavema 36

0 Psaras

Entrance to Fo“ ress

5 Theodonakis 6 Archaeological Museum

47

E‖ otia Travel

Xenia

13 Crtan Lines

51 Kara Musa Pasha Mosque

14 8ala Club

52 National Mortgage Bank 53 National Bank of Greece

18

RImondi Fountain

20 Nitro 21 Metropo‖ s/NYC 22 Fote22a Disco 23 Trape2a

54 Town Ha‖

24 1nternational Pに ss Bookshop 25 Paradise Dive Centre 26 Giorg os Calerakis

55

C,T〔

56

Credit Bank

57 Supermarket 58 A‖ as Travel 59 Car Park 60 Thursday Market 61 Po眈 o Cuora

27 28 29

Xenia Loggia Motor Stavros

64 Bus Station 65 Hospital

30

Bookshop

66 01ympic Aim′ ays

33

Figaro

39

Historical&Folk A“

The main gate of Rcthymno's 16th‐ century FOrtreSS is opposite the Archaeo‐ logical Museurn on the easterll side of the fortress but there once、 vere tw0 0ther gates ′ on the、 、 estern and northern sides for the delivery of supplies and arnrnunition.

67 Post Orice

Museum

68

Of lν ienice:the l_′

E〈 :)S

ion of St Mark,now in the

Archacological Muscum.Around the Porto uora lies a netwOrk Of。 ld streets built by thc venetians and rebuilt by the・ rurks. (:)ther´ urkish legacies in the。 ld quarter 「 include the iく ara Musa Pasha Mosque (I〕

Barracks, the arsenal and storeroOrns were on the southern side,gunpowder was

Which has a vauited fountain and the Ner‐

storcd on the northern side and the centre Once contained a cathedral、 vhich the Turks ´ converted intO a nlosque. rhe ranlparts ofner g。 。d vie、 vs ofthe town and the coast.

Franciscan church in 1657.1｀ he minaret was built in 1890.

The lortressis open 8 am to 8 pm every day. Adnlission is 800 dr.

Pride of place anlong the many vestiges of lVlenetian rulc in the 01d quarter goes to

the Rimondi Fountain、 vith its spouting lion heads and(COrinthian capitals,built first in

1588 and rebuilt in 1626 by Rirnondi. Rethyrnn。 'S other iandrnark is the 16th―

century Loggia,once a meeting house lor

｀ ienetian nObility. ッ At the southern end of Ethnikis Antis― taSeOS is the lⅣ ell― preserved Porto lGuora

(Grcat Gate),a remnant Of the detnsive 、′ ∼all

that、 vas

Once tOpped、 ′ ith thc syinbOl

adies Mosque,which was converted iom a

Trekking The Happy Walker(●

52920),Tombazi

56, runs a varied prOgranl of mountain walks in the region.Most walks start in the early nlorning、 vhen a rninibus picks you up at the hotel and takes yOu tO the begin_ ning of your walk.´ 「 he、valks are usually

about 14krn alongi farm roads and donkey

paths. Favourite spots include the iBone lRapria Castle with a view ofthe Lefka C)ri,Pikris,

ヽ Vild nowers around Kare,the ancient city of lElefthema, the pottery village of Mar‐ garites and Moni Elias.Prices start at 6500

dr per persOn_The、 valks inish with iunch

152 Rethy:Tino-lDiving

in a local taverna at a price of 2500 dr in‐ cluding wine and dessert.

Rethymno's chapter of the EOS(‐

57

766)is at Dimokratias 12,and can give goOd advice on nlountain clinlbing in the region.

Diving

supply of restored mansions and lriendly pensions to iinrnerse yourselfin the town's ・ fascinating history. 「 here are buses every

half hour ioin Rethymno centre.

′ camping The nearest camp site is Iア ′ zα ― うι″ Cα ″P′ ″g(● 28694),nea Myssiria beach 3krn east of Rethyrnno.´

I｀

he site has

The Paradise Dive Centre(● 53258),El

a taverna, snack bar and minimarket. An

Venizelou 76, has activities and a PAI)I

lrakliO‐ bound bus can drop you at the site.

cOurse for all grades ofdivers.There is also

the Dolphin Diving Centre(● 71703)at the Hotel Rethyinno Mare that offers the same

″ 力οs′ ι′r‐ 22∂ イ∂ Hosteis Theッ ο ′

services.

beds lor 1500 dr and free hot showers.

0『 ganised￢ours Lying in the centre of the Cretan coast, Rethymno is well placed for boat excur―

the evening. 「 here is no curfew and the

sions.Along the harbour iontthere are sev―

И″″αr● 2Jイ 79, Domatia Rο ο″s./b′ R′ ″′ iS a great ChOiCe if yOu N清 ´ο″ Fο たα

,

“ and well run with 7b″ bαz′ イ〃 is ilendly

13reakfast is available and there's a bar in

eral cornpanies that ottler boat trips.The most conspicuous is Thc Pirtte(奮 51643,

fax 24 729)which omers day-long swim‐ ming and fishing trips along the rocky in‐ dented coast on an old sailing schooner for 8900 dr(4450 dr for children under 12),in― cluding lunch.｀ ou could also try Zourbakis Yζ

Cruises(● 57032)on a modern sanboat, which Offers ive hours of sailing for 6000 di Dolphin Cruises(● 57666)o詭 rs a day trip to Georgioupons for 6000 dr(4000 dr children under 12).

Special■ vents

´

place is open all year.

have kids because`〃 it'sjust a short walk iom `わ

Rethylnno's inunicipal park.The prcttily furnished r。 。ms have private bathr。 。ms but no other anlenities,although the owner will

giadly help you with anything you need. Singlcs/doubles are 9000/11,000 di P′ ″ s′ ο ″ rl● 28665, The lricndly O′ gα も」 Sο ン ′ ノ οン5秒 iS mcked away on the touristy but colourful Souliou.A network of ter‐ raccs,all bursting with greenery,connects a

wide range of roorns, sorne with bath and sea vlews and others without. Prices lor

The city's rnain cultural event is the annual

singles/studios are 6000/10,000 dr. Rο ο″S″ R′ ″rβ α′ bα ′ αDο ′ ο″α■′

Renaissance Festival that runs during July

gノ ″ら′″ 5∂ f,Z″ α

2イ

′り iS a rambling penSiOn `・

and August, featuring dance, drarna and

in the iniddle of Rethymno's nightlife sec―

ilms as well as art exhibitions.Some years

tion which has comfo■ able rooms with and withOut kitchenenes.The r00ms with kitch‐ enettes are better valuc because they are larger and have recently been refurbished.

there's a Wine Festival in mid― July held in the nlunicipal park,that offers a good op‐ portunity to sanlple local、 vine and cuisine for about 1000 dr.Ask the tourist ofice for details.

Places to Stay Rethylnno's accornrnodation scene has

Prices for doubles/studios are 10,000/ 11,000 di ・rranquillity is nOt the selling pOint at ― ″sr● 23∂ θ 3,P′ α 二ι ′is Papα イα■おRο ο ′「 S″ ″α 2の ,but anyOnC WhO WantS tO be in

sOrnething for evcryone.Because it'sa dy‐ nanlic,cornmercial centre,many hoteis are ・ Open all yca■ 「 hose who want to lounge around a resort wi‖ head east iom the town

the centre of Rethyrnno's nightlife has

centre tO find an endless string of hotels.

night.Rooms with private bathroom are

Within the town centre, there's an anlple

6500/7500 dr.

cOrne to the right place. All roorns are pleasant but the riont r。 。rns have stunning

sea views although they can be noisy at

Rethynlno― P:aces t(o Eat 153

On a quietstreetin RethymnO's。 ld to、′ n, R`″ ′Rο ο″s Cα ′ ″ι ″ r・ 2∂ 586,Ⅳ 清:/b″ 。ン Fο た α∂の iS an impeCCably maintained 600ycar_01d Venetian hOuse rctaining inany of

modern comfOrts.The cye‐ catching rOOms Of p01ished iⅣ 。Od n。 。rs and ceilings als。 have air‐ cOn,´ 「 Vs, telephones, safes and

kitchenettes. Roorns are 16,000/20,000 di

The И α′ ゴρ

its original fcatures including inlprcssive

S′

doors and a gorgeous grapc_arboured gar― den.The rOOms are sirnple,comfOrtable and tasteful. Prices 10r doubles/triples are 10,000/15,000 dr with private bathroonl. R′ ″ ′Rο ο ″S S′ αl賄 ′ ″`雷 jノ 98′ jα 62,′ ″α 〃′ ′ ο ′ ″ ″多 力x5′ θ @″ αル ′

確 セθ わンイ 〃 iS

] ,

`′ a delighthi pcnsion which

'″

has only six studio/apartnlents but each one ´ is lresh and cheernul. rhe best part is that

you're right across the street frOnl the beach;the wOrst partis thatthe iOnt rooms Can be nOiSy at night.Prices are 5000/7000 dr with private bathroonl.

Hotels― Mid‐ Range The″ ο ′ ′ ′flο ″ ′ `zzα 73, ρ 5555ノ ん∫2ο ′23″ ∂,ヵ χ ∫イ θ ■ ′ おs′ ″οンノ の is an isle Of calm in a busy `′ neighbOurhOod.Iヽ Ioused in a refi,rbished old building in the heart Of the 。ld tO、 vn, the tastefully lurnished r00rns have ・ Vs, tele_ phOneS and air‐ COn on denland.After a day Of rOarning through Rethyrnno,it's pleasant to relax by the hOtel swimrning p001.Prices I｀

10r SingleS/dOubleS/triples are

15,000/

19,000/23,000 dr including buffet brcakfast.

The only missing ingredient at 月【 ο′ ′′r● 2995&′ gο ″″ο″οンGα ν″′ ′9り

2イ

″′ ,、 力χJθ ∂

,

Pα″α ″グ″ο″〃 iS a neW hOtel east of Plateia "θ lroon and hasn't gOt arOund tO installing´ 「 Vs and telcphOnes in the roorns butit hardly mat― ters when the r。 。 ms ae assp y and as mod_

」αrカ F≧

is an

elevatortO take yOu tO roorns that are spread

overtwo■ oors.The r00ms are comfortable with air‐ cOn,Tvl,telephone,sound― prooing and balcOnies Offering a vie、 ′ofthe rnuni‐

enl as they are.The bathr00ms a・ e state ofthe a」 t and there's air‐ cOn.Prices for roorns are 14,500/16,000 dr including buf¥iet breakfast.

HOteiS ― TOp lnd The Xン ″″ 3`α εカ (●

555θ ′,υ脅

lχ

27 7イ

aSた

″たグο′〃 is

a

favourite with package tours iargcly be― cause of its excellent location just across nronl the beach and、vithin walking distance Of the to、 vn centre. Most rooms have air― /and telephOne and there's a snlall COn,´ 「ヽ

pool.Prices include buffet breakfast. ike a1l of RcthynlnO's luxury establish― I_′

ments,C′ ι ιοた′C′ ′″ Pα ′ αc`r・ 55ノ ∂′ east Of ノbχ 5イ θ∂〃 is in Missira,4km ´ Rcthyrnno, On the bcach. 「 here are t、 v。 ,

outdoor swiinining p001s and one indoor,a Children's playground,tennis courts,a16t‐

ncss club and all water spOrts facilities.The rooms have air― con on demand,TVs with internatiOnal stations and telephones.Prices are 22,000/32,000 dr for a roonl. Crι ι ο″′Pο ′ rο R′ ′ カッ″″ο r・ jθ ィ32, z`あ ″52И ノis an A― class ブレχ27∂25,Sラ を″′

hote1 0n the beach about lkrn east Of the town centre and has a swirnming pOOl and air― Conditioned rooms for 25,000/32,000 di

Cipal park. PriCeS are ll,000/14,000 dr

The

Cr``ο ′

R′ ′ カノ″″α 3′ α

、 vhich include breakfast. ´ 「 o spare yOu the 10ng walk to Rethymno's beach,the modern fib″ Iグ ″ `′ `ο 2∂ 66Zノ ン χ2∂ 67θ ,P′ α5′ ′ ″ αノα,providcs

but has a huge outdOOr as、 vell as an indoor pool,tennis cOurts,、 vater sports centre and itness roonl. Air― conditioncd r00ins are

`・

25,000/35,000 dL

you with a swiinrning p001.C)ther amenities

Fア ′θθ2,力 χ7′ `′660

`カ iS farther out oftown

in this p01ished establishment include roonls 、 vith air― con, safes, radios, tele― phones and balconies. Singles/doubles are 14,000/16,000 dr including buFfet break_ fast. The oldest part of″ ο′ レυ″ι′ ο `′ ′ν ι″′′ ο@ ρ 5663イ ,力 χ 56635,`″ α′ 」 ′′ ′″ ″″′g4E′ 」 ″ι″ノ グο′り dateS iOm the 15th century and it has preserved nlany of its traditiOnal ncatures 、′ ithout sacrincing

P:aces to Eat

´

The waterflont along Elヽ lenizelou is lined

with anlazingly siinilar tourist restaurants stamed byね st_talking waiters desperately c劉 。 ‖ng passers― by intO eating at their estab―

hshments.The simaiOn is much the same around theヽ

ienetian I― Iarbout

exceptthatthe

setting is bcter and the prices higher.

154 Rethymno―

P:aces to Eat

A Cretan Feast Artichoke Omelette(4 pe"on→ [)ice one large onion. Clut eight artichokes into quarters and fry thern With the onions over

litre(one cup)of oll.Add two finely chOPped tornatoes,salt low heat for five minutes vvith lる and Peppen cradually addッ 4 1itre(。 ne cup)。 f water and boilfor 15 minutes.3eat four eggs and POur over the vegetable mixture.Cook for tv′ o minuteS OVerlow heat.

Okra with Red Snapper(6 persons) Fry l kilo(2.21b5)Of Okra and tヽ ″0 1arge ChOpped OniOnS in lそ litre(One Cup)。 f Oll・ Fry until sOtt and add salt and pepper to taste.Add three finely chopped tOrnatOeS and C00k for 15 minutes.Place in a large pan and sPread l kilo(2.2 1bs)of red snapper On top ofit.Put the pan in a pre― heated oven(180° C)and bake for 20 rninutes.

Baked lHalva(6 persons) siftッ ,cup

of f10ur with h″ O teaspOOns Of baking pOvvder and a pinch of salt.Add two cuPS

of semolina and a cup of finely chopped nuts.Cirearn'4 of a cup of butter Or magarine with a cup Ofsugar and add three beaten eggs and grated lemon peel.IConlbine the mixtureS Well, then pourinto a greased,25crn(110-inCh)Square tin.Bake in a mediunn oven until golden.Boil add four cloves andつ4 stick of cinnanlon,then three cups of water with three cups of suga昨 POur Over the rest of the dessert.Leave it to stand until the cinnanlon and clove mixture has

been absorbed and serve without crearn,vvarrヽ l or cold. 凸 凸 凸 ↓

´ I｀

he nlost authentic iplaces are in the web

Of side strects iniand lヒ om the harbour.0′ ″ ン α〃 ″3〃 iS a g00d ′′ ″α イ ￨′ ″ 7♭ ″″7レ ツ spOttO conle a食 ler an exploration ofthe His‐ lο

ヽ v4enetian villa has an idyllic cnclosed gar‐ den for dining alnrescO. It's open nOOn tO 2.30 prn and 6 prn to nlidnight dally.1￢ α″― gο ″ S″″ α

αの iS a 10Cal iVOurite and αS″ ″

torical&Folk Art Museum right across the strcct.The traditional Cretan food is well

has a large menu ofGreek and international `P′

prepared and there's a good value set‐ price rnenu with wine.It's open noon to 3 prn and y.■ ッα″αPο ″″οs 7 pm to midn地

specialties.´ ry the delicious iarnb cooked

rル

ィ θ′ ,ssI″ ο

3イ リproves

"t da‖

once again that

sOme of the“best Cretan food comes ilorn

places that iook like upgraded street stalis.

A convivial group oflocals comes here for the delicious cheese‐ stuffed calamari an10ng Other dishes.It's Open noon to 2.30 prn and 6 prn to midnight daily. α″′浅 Bα ′βくο″″οο″ ル′ S Rι S″ ″′ Cο ″ α “n plaCe thatiS WO■ h ViSitingお r itS の iS a“ lood as lnuch as for its rnusic.The plain in‐ teriOr cOntains a smali stage in back that at‐

tracts sOine of Rethylnno's inest lolk musicians and the cooking is delicious.It's

open 8 pm to l am daily.

・ here's nO better place in town than`4ッ ′ ′ 力ο″′グο″2〃 おr a Юmantic evening β ″′ ´ I｀

`α out.

I・

he food is superb and this forrner

dishes but the best choices are the Cypriot I｀

in a clay oven or thc meatbalis with yogurt and pitta bread.It's open noon to 3 prn and 7 pm to midnight daily.

Let the tourists eat elbow tO Cibow on

venizelou street,s“ s″ r・ 239イ J,Pa″ :/υ ― “ Side Ofthe Venetian ″ ′ αた 。り iS On the Other 10■ ress where all is calin.Ylou can feast on

decent Cretan dishes while seated right along the、 vatet(1'orne at sunset,of coursc. It's Open noon to lnidnight daily.1｀

αs ο Psα ′

″bα ′ zο gあ rZ″ α

6」

he■ sh at

り,an unpre‐

“ llesh which is tentious taverna, is always what makes C)Psaras popular with iocals and visitors alike.´ 「 he tables are outside on

an attractive square next to a churcll. It's Open noon to mi(inight daily.

′′ ′ ο′ 5',a tiny, S′ ′ ″αな κ′ ′ ″ hOnley spOt On`ル one of Rethymno's oldest `Sο streets,serves up tasty snacks and a tw

Rethynlno― Entertainnlent 1 55

Octopus drying:seafoOd features pronlinently on Cretan menus. 11leals.It's a goOd bet fOr breakfast as、

´

vell.

ルクss,″ ,り ,2km out oftOwn On the old road

rhere's only a couple oftablcs h。 、 vever,s。

to lraklio.

you rnay have to take the 100d away. It's open 8 anl to midnight daily.For authentic ― atmOSphere tiγ 7レ ツ′′ ″αボン″αi盈 ′ピ α ′ αわ 22ソ WandCr iniand dOWn the littlc side `Fο strccts to lく :yria Maria,behind the Rinlondi Fountain This cosy,traditiOnal taverna has Outd00r Seating under a leatt treHiS With

the dishes involve nleat whether brOiled,

twittering birds.All meals end with a com―

plirnentary dessert and shOt Of raki.It's open 8 ain to l anl daily. A little offthc beaten track,7レ ッ ι ′ ″αCα s― ′ ′ ο r,ソ ′ ブ ssブ ″ ο′ノみ oien has space when iι

others are full.´

I｀

he cnclosed garden― terrace

provides a sOOthing setting for decent(:〕

ret―

iegetarians be、 vare. Nearly all

grilled,stewed or nried.It's open noon to 3 prll and 6 pm to nlidnight daily_

ヽ Vhen locals froin Rethynlno are looking for a speciai nleal,they'II pile into cars and

drive to Atsipopoulo. ()n the edge of this village you'11 1lnd

κο″bο S`4′ S″ ο pο ′ の a■ iendly taVema, “ meaty meals.Thelamb which specialises in is good and, if yOu're up tO it, try the siρ ′?。 gα ″ ′ ンらα(spleen).・rlo get there,head ′ 、 ヽ est out oftown and turn sOuth On the rOad j′

￨。

to Episkopi「 Ybu'll see the restaurant before entcring the village.lt's opcn 7 pnlto l arll

an dishes.It's open noon t0 1■lidnight daily

daily.

taverna as`κyou're likely to ind in

The bar/cafes along Elヽ ienizelou■ 1l up on

・ vander Over this far、 vest, 「 ourists rarely 、 but Fα ″α″ ゴ q/タ ノ οgブ α″ノノ〃 iS aS″ piCal a Rethymno.The nsh is,esh,carnivOres wi‖ lovc thc grined steak and the home_made 、′ ine is surprisingly g00d.It's Opcn n00n t。 midnight daily.

When Rethymno couples and their kids, grandparents, cOusins, aunts an(i nephe、 vs v/ant to nlake a night Ofit,they'1l head to thc vast 7aッ ′ ′ ″αZisls r,ヽ イみ′ sκ″′ ′ ,s′ 乙 ￨ク

Entertainiment surnnlcr

evenings

with

pink― skinned

tourists, dazed fronn the burning sun and nursing tropical drinks. The alllbience is conllo■lable but soporiic.Rcthynlno's live‐ lier nightlife is cOncentrated in the streets

around the Venetian harbOur wherc a clus‐ ter of bars,clubs and discOs create a carni_

valesque atmospherc.

1 56 Rethynnno― Shopping

Did You Know?

hOkey l_in and the SOundS are COnteinpOrary intemational.It's open ll pm to dawn nightly. 》 力α″ is having its moment 7ン α Zα ″ ′ 〃 ′′

・ Greece has the lowest rate of alco― holisr,l in Europe

`′ in the sun as Rcthynlno's trendiest hang―

´

‐

O 「 he rniniature chapels you see by the side of the road are ca‖ ed`lkonostas―

out.

sia'and are placed in spots where an

rhe crOwd of yOung prOfessiOnals that fllls the club nightly rnay rnove on soon but right now this is whcre thc actions is. It's open

accident happened

nightly,om 9 pm to dawn.The DJ spins

hits iom the 60s at ル ″οPο ′ is ⅣyC

O Most Cretan names end in'akis' because lt is a dirninutive(such as―

ette)given by the Turks as a sign of disrespect to the people they ruled

・ 100 years ago there were only 8km of Paved roads〈 )n the entire island O The Cretan version of the Spanish `siesta'ls ca‖ frorl、

ed the`ipnakos'an(1 1asts

about l.30 to 5 prγ

l

o Sheep are considered a higher forrn of aninlallife than goats which is、 ″hy ′ only men are a‖ o、へ ed to rnilk sheep

′ α″ 力οり lor a crowd that `ι comesto tank up rλ 看 on cocktails bclorc hitting the discos. It's open 7 pm to da、vn nightly.ltinay be gctting ′ passe,but Dι ゥ 7″ ′ on Elヽ lenizelou is still the only open‐ air disco in to、 vn and has an un― beatable location on thc bcach. During the day,C′ ″b252 rr力 α〃b`′g′ 〃 is a great place to linger over a coffee.At night Rethymmo's twcnty― somcthings pol― ish thernselves up to rneet friends and soon‐ to― be-lriends

while m‖ king goatsisiei to women

reek nlusic.It's a good placc to escape the along El｀ vienizelou.It's open 10 arn

´ 「 here's not a lot ofvariety in the nightlife scene; nlost places are literally grabbing people off the street and cranllTling them onto the dance n。 。r for a dose of techn。 and house but thcre are a few islands of

(:〕

calin arnidst the uproar.

cro、 vd

If you love drinking cheap、 ′ ine

under the stars. It's open 10

am to l am daily. Nο ′ ιs rMα 滋あ ガαs〃 ,a quiet bar/cafe ゝ′ ith a polished、 vood bar,、 vas opened by a musician who has an excellent selection of

and lis―

tening to live Cretan lolk inusic,(7ο ″″αルゴ s Rι s′ α″′ α″′浅 βα′rκο″ ο″οοクの is the place

cro、 vds

to inidnight daily.

1-10used in an ingeniously restored old building,FFgα ′ο イラ セ′α′ グοン2〃 iS an at‐

mospheric bar which attracts a subdued for drinks, snacks and rock nlusic.

It's open noon to midnight daily.

Shopping

「 here's nlusic and inlpronlptu danc― ing most nights. It's open 8 pm to l anl

The shopping section of Rethyinno is rela―

nightly.In the hcart of Rethyrnno's nightlife 力οン 2の is a district,N′ ″ο c′ 〃b rⅣ ια′ vith nlusic cr。 、 vded, nriendly dance ciub 、 prOgranlnling thatleans toward techno early in the evening and Greek inusic later on.It's open 10 pnito da、 vn nightly. 4ο α ′ α Dお ″ ′ 7ο 〃 iS the tOWn'S Fο ′ `“ disc。 `ο .It's big and nashy with three sh。 、 vpiece

of stores selling everything■ om souvenirs b Jewened watches.The water,。 nt promenadc of El Venizelou has plen、 ′of souvenir shops

to go.´

tively conlpact and contains a、 vide assortinent

sandv′ iched bemeen the restaurants but yOu'11

■nd higher quality merchandise,including Je、

vellery shops,on Arkadiou.

Souliou is a narro、 v pedestrian street

bars,a laser sho、 v and a、vell― groonled inter―

crarnrncd with stores of every kind and makes a wonderful stro‖ .Don't miss the

natiOnal crOwd that stanls drifting in arOund

Thursday markct on Dimitrikakis for iesh

`λ

rnidnight. It's open ll prn to da、

vn nightly.

′a huge dance club, Fonmerly a cinerna:,no、 、 31″ α

′οり haS hirCd an a■ raCtiVC ″″」

multilingual stafF in an emoi to captu“ `Sα

tourist lllarket.The piratc ship dccor is good

the

produce,clothing and odds and ends.The best thing about Giorgios Galerakis(Arka―

diou 201)among thc many on Arkadiou,is thatthe ornanlents are nlade on site and you can visit the workshop.

Rethylmino―

A Cretan summer may make it dificultto

Geting There&Away 157

Gett:ng There&Away

think about leather Outerwear but the suede

Bl』 s・ I｀ here

and lctther at Xenia(Arkadiou 32 and 265)

Hania(one hour,1350 dr)and lraklio(1%

is buttery solt and inade intO elegant ladies'

hours, 1550 dr).´「 here's a bus in each di― rection every half‐ hour in surnmet every

suits,jackets and coats.It's open 8.30 am to

8 pnl Monday to Saturday. Zaharias TheOdorakis'workshop(Katehaki 4)turns out onyx bo、 vls and goblets on the lathc at his Smallヽ vorkshop.It's open 10 anlto 8 prn

Monday to Saturday. Friendly Katerina Karaogiani(Katehaki 4)makes her pOttery in the store.You'11

are nurnerous services to bOth

hour in winte■ In surnrner there are alsO fOur buses a day to Plakias(one hou■ 950

dr);four to Agia Galini(1%hours,1300 dr);three to Moni Arkadiou(30 minutes,

500 dr);one to Omalos(twO hOurs,2750 dr)and two to Preveli(950 dr).The morn―

ind the standard bluc_glazed Cretan cer―

ing bus tO Plakias continues to l‐ Iora Sfakion(two hours,1450 dr).Services to

arnics of a better quality than the tourist

these destinations are greatly reduced in

shops deliver. It's Open 10 am t。 1l prn Monday to Saturday. ln addition to hand‐

winter.

made icons,Melissa(Ethnikis Antistaseos

Ferry Cretan Lines(● 29221)operates a

23)sens candles,incense,011 lamps and

daily fer:y bet、 veen lRcthymno and Piracus

other odorous substances.It's Open 9 am to 8 pnlヽ 4onday to Saturday. Ilias Spontidakis'bookstore(Souliou 43) isjammed with nOvels in severallanguages as、 vell as rnaps,guideb00ks and cassetes of(Elretan and(Greek nlusic.´ here's alsO a 「 Smali second‐ hand section.It's open Mon‐ day to Saturday 10 am t0 10 prn.In additiOn

to foreign newspapers,yOu'll find a good selection ofnovels in IEniglish,travel guides and history books at the lnternational Press

leaving iRethyrnno and Piracus at 7.30 prn.

T'ickets are available fronl the cOmpany's ofnce at Arkadiou 250. 1〕 )eck‐ class tickets cost 7000 dr and a berth in a tourist_class cabin is 10,300 dr.

Getting Around Ca■

MOtorcycie(&Bicycle Most ofthe

car hire ■rms are grouped around Plateia lroon.

Bookshop (EI Vё nizelou 81). It's open

Miotor Stavros(● 22858),試 Paleologou 14, has a wide range of motorcycles and

ヽ4onday to Saturday 9 am to 10 prn.

also rents bicycles.

Cire Perdue The C′ e

′ ax)method of casting brOnze statues was pioneered by the Cretansin ρette(lost、 へ

“ preclassical tirnes.A wax original、 へ ′ as made,with iron ducts placed at strategic points.These duCtS Were SuffiCiently 10ng tO pr。 り ect out of the clay mould、 ″hich was then put around the wax.A pouring funnel was fitted into the clay nlould at a suitable place.The cast was then heated so thatthe wax lnnelted and ran outthrough the ducts.VVhen alithe wax had escaped′

the duCtS Were renloVed and the holes were plugged. Molten bronze vvas then poured through the funnel VVhen the brOnze had cooled the nlould was carefu‖ y chiPPed away Advantages of the cire perdue nlethod of casting include the high degree of detallthat can

be aChieVed,and the abSenCe Ofioining hneS On the bЮ nZe CaSt The pЮ

CeSSiS Sti‖

uSed bday

for high― precision wOrk.

The cire perdue method nlay have given rise to various legends including One which tells of

Talos,a rnan rrlade of bronze,whO had One vein running frorn his neck to his leg.He was a servant of King MinOS,and it WaS hiS dutyヽ ″aS to helP defend Crete.VVhen the Argonauts arriVed,he tried tO repei thern,but lVledea,VVh。 )had aCCOrnpanied thern,unplug81ed a pin in his ankle.Heル 、 ′ as drained Of his colourless life― blood and died.

些 些 鰺 凸 鰺 些 聰 鰺 鰺 些 瞼 些 些 当 些

158 EPiskoPi

EPISK(0)P] Episkopi,23k!Υ l south― west ofRethymno,is a pretty,traditional toぃ ′ n of winding lancs

and tiny houses, overlooking the valley. ()ne inain road runs through to、 vn with a

in the north and protective inountains to the sOuth and、 vest.The city flourished but be―

came a centre of resistance to rule nrorn Knossos in the 3rd century BC along with the town of Lyttos.

When Ly■ os was destroyed by Knossos

snlaller road running parallel to the rnain road.Thcre is no OTE butthere is a post of‐

in 220 BI(〕 its vanquished inhabitants took

■cc past the 13P station on the right.

ith refuge in ILappa, which togethcr 、′

As a nlarket centre for the region's pro―

duce lEpiskopl is busy and prosperous al― though nlost inen and wornen are still clad in traditional black Cretan garb.

´ 「 he town is a good place to experience Crctan lit and attracts tw tourists al― though there are a few domatia.Try Zο ツー ″α″′r● 6′ 67り or R`″ ′Rο O″sI′′″′ r・ 6ノ 32の ,both of which have rooms for 5000/6000 dr.Frornヽ 4onday to Friday thcre

Polyrrinia succeeded in securing peacc in western Crete with the help of Philip V of or being on the Macedonia.Lappa's gi貴 う right side of political struggies continued ′ 、 、 hen it suppo■ ed(:)ctavian in his、 vinning ba■ le with lark Antony.As Empero■ Oc― tavian re、 rarded Lappa by erecting elab― orate public buildings in the to、

vn.He built

a reservoirin 27 1BC thatis still in use today

are two buses daily fronl :Rethyrnno to

and excavations have revealed a Rornan noor nlosaic, R.ornan baths and Rornan

Episkopi(30 1ninutes,375 dr).

tonlbs.

ARCIROuPOLIS

the 9th‐ ccntury Saracens and then enり

● 0831

a second life under thc Venetians who built

When the suinmer heat becornes too in― tense even for the beach, you'11 1lnd a natural, outdoor air‐ conditioning system

villas and churches in this cool mountain hidea、vay.Archaeo!ogists are continuing to

at Argiroupolis, 25knl south-1″ est frorn Rethymno.The lower village of this tい 'o― village town is a watery oasis fonned by

nants of Lappa's history lronl its origins to its eventual destruction by the Saracens. ヽ4ost of the houses in the upper village

inountain springs that keep the terrlperature

date iom the last years of Turkish domin― ation but you'11 lind odds and ends nrorn Roman to Byzantine rule.

´ I｀

markedly cooler than the coast. Running vashing down walls, through aqueducts, 、 seeping fiom stones and pouring flolll spig―

Ots, the gushing springwater supplies the entire city of Rethymno. ´ 「 Owering chestnut and plane trees and

he city prospered until its destruction by

Oyed

excavate in the area and are turning up rern―

0『 ientat3on&lnforrnatlon

The tOwn is divided into two pans_The main square and old town is in the upper

luxuriant vegetation create a shady,restful spot,perfect for lingering overlunch in one of the local tavernas. Argiroupolis, is built on the renlains of

part,which is connected to the waterヽ vheeis oflo、 ver Argiroupolis by a good paved road.

the ancient city of ILappa so there's also

sights are scattered in and around the t、 vo sections.It's easier to explore Argiroupolis if you have your own、 vheels.

plenty to explore.・ 「 he villagers rnaintain a traditional lifestyle,largely undisturbed by tourisrn but are proud of their heritage and

′you around. eager to sho、 へ

It's a steep 2krn walk bet、 veen the lo、 ver

half and the upper half and many of the

There is no post ofice,()TE,tourist Office Or travel agency but the Lappa

Although legend has it that Aganlenlnon

Avocado Shopjust offthe main square is a good source of infornlation on the to、 vn and、 vill prOvide visitors with maps.You

built Lappa,most likely it、 vas founded by

can change nloney here and pick up a

the Dorians.The inland ciけ was sai nrom

supply of thcir excellent avocado― bascd crcarns and soaps.

History

piracy and、 vas bordered by a fertile valley ︲ 汗

Amari Province― Amari Va‖ ey 159

Things to See Upper Town The inain square is marked

roorns for 5000/6000 dr with scenic views over the valley.In the upper town there is

by the 17th‐ century Venetian Church of Agios loannis. Passing through the stone archway opposite the church with the Lappa

ルb′″力′″sr雪 ∂ノθ′〃 and И″ ″ι ια Pヮ α “ for θィ r奮 ∂′θ ン,both of which have rooms 5000/6000 diル ルι″α″お r雪 ∂′225,is a

Avocado Shop on thc le■ l you will enter vhere ltornan rcnlnants are the old town 、

`′ charrning,placc halfLburied behind treeS and

´ scattered arnid the Venetian and 「 urkish

nowering bushes that offers spectacular views ofthe area■ om its balconies.Rooms

structures.

are 5000/6000 dr. In the lower to、

he nlain stone street will take you past a Ro:Tlan gate on the lel■ with the inscrip―

」 P′ α I′ ′ ″″Fis on the edge ofa duck pond s′″′ and Иg′ ″D′ ″α″お is surrounded by water―

tion`Omnia Mundi Fumus et Umbra'(All

falis and fountains.Both oflier good value

1・

´ ´ 「 hings in his VVorid are Srnoke and ShadOW).In a tW metreS a narrOW StreettO the right leads down to a 3rd‐ century‐ BC I｀

vn,

nleals.

Ge

ng There&Away

marb:e water reservc)ir、 vith seven interior arches. Returning to the rnain road and continu‐

Frorn Monday to Friday there are two buses daily■ oin Rethymno(40 min,460 do.

ing in the sarne direction past grapevines

Amari Province

and apricot trees you will see on the len,a

Roman mosaic f!oor,dating■ om the lst

century BC.With 7000 pieces in six c。

1。

urs,the well_preserved n。 。ris a g。 。d

example of design■ oin the Geometric Pc‐ he sanle road takes you back to the stone‐ arched entrance.

riod.1『

The AFnari PrOVinCe iS the heartland Of Crete and the repository of its culture.´ 「 he province's capital at Arnariis surrounded by

some of the most tranquil and untouched villages on the isiand while the hills and valleys of Mt Psiloritis create breathtaking

Lo)wer￢ olwn・ 「 he

centre ofthe lo、

vertown

vle、 vs.

is fornled by a group oftavernas clustercd

FЮ m the legcnd of Zeus to the hori″ ing

around the tumbling springs.A pah iom

bloodbath at Moni Arkadiou, Crete's tor‐

the bottoin of the town leads you to a Roman bath and a water― driven wooden

nlented history took shape under the shado、 v of the loonling Mt Psiloritis now

fu::ing nlachine which was used to thicken cloth by moistening and beating it.Nearby is St Mary's lChurch,built on a tenlple to

justice to the province which is poorly

Neptune.Another path frorn the village cen― tre takes you to the St Nlkoias(Church in― side a cave,and wateifa::s.

served by public transportation, although there are three buses a day iom Rethymmo to Amari.

0)ther Sights North ofthe upper town a

Al■ ARI

nootpath on the right takes you about 50rn

crisscrossed by shepherds' trails and goat tracks.｀ 14ou will need your own wheels to do

VALLEY Kotλ ttδ α Aμ αρ〔oじ Ifyou have your o,vn transport you inay like

to a Rornan Necropolis with hundreds of ´ tombs cut into the cliffs. he shady path

to explore the enchanting Ainari Valley,

leads on to a p:ane tree that is supposed to

Psiloritis and Iく

be 2000 years old and is so large that the

around 40、 vell‐ 、 vatered,unspoilt villages sct

I｀

path runs rightthrough it.´

here are benches around the trec and nlountain springs. I・

south‐ cast

of Rethyrnno, between iVits ledros.This region harbours

arnid olivc groves and almond and cherlly ´

trees.「 he valley begins at the picturesquc

village of Aposto:i, 25km south‐

cast of

Places to Stay 8:Eat

Rcthymno.Thetum― offforApostollis on the

Rο ο ″s

coast 3k:Υ l east of Rethyinno.The road lorks

Иrg′′ ο″″ο″sr奮 ∂′2∂ 〃 is about

500m uphill iom the lowertown,and has

at Apostoli and then joins up again 38km to

160 Amari Province― Mt Psi:oritis

the south,■ laking it possible to do a circular

(E;hurch of the Panagia.´ rhe oldest pall:of

drive around the vaney;altemativeltt you

thc church is the knave which、 vas built in

can continue south to Agia Galini.

the 14th century.′ he southern side of the

The road to Apostoii follows a wild and deselted gorge bordered by high cliffs and is spectacularly scenic. Apostoli 11lakes a

church with its elegant portal was added under the Venetians.「 he highlight of the church is the beautifully restored 14th‐

good rest stop;tllere's a taverna on the right

century fi・ escoes.

I「

I｀

′ he road continues south to Cerakari,

side of the road that serves good che、 vy bread and has beautifili views over the val‐ ley,but there's no other place in Apostoli to pick up supplies.´ raking the leni fork fャ 。

I｀

known lor its delicious cherries.Stop at De‐

０ ２嘔 ﹁ ”〓”円“

m

Apostoli lyou'1l corne to the village of

spina's Shop(● 0833‐ 51013)in the centre oftown,which sells cherl)′ brandy,cherries in syrup,and iocal cheeses.Her shop is a

Thronos with its Church Ofthe Panagia cOn‐ strticted on the remains of an early Christ― ian basilica.´ 「 he 14th‐ centuryうrescoes are

popular hang‐ out for the Gerakari ladies in the anem。 。n and she has r。 。ms over the shop that she rents for 6000 dr.Fronl Ger‐

oldest are in the choir stalls.Ask atthe kafe―

、 vhich aflords sweeping views ofthe valley.

faded but extraordinarily well―

executed;the

nion ncxt door for the key. Returnillg to Apostoli continue along the

lnain road south.The ncxttown is Agia Fo‐ tini which is a larger town with a super―

akari a new road continues on to Spili

MT PSILORITIS ´

he imposing Mt Psiloritis,also known as Mt lda,dorninates the Amari Province and r・

rnarket.′ I｀ he road t、 vists and turns along the

at 2456m is thc highest rnountain in Crete.

scenic valley before it comesto Meronas,a

1・

little village with big plane trees,and a ine

Plateau.′ he road icading up to the plateau

he base of Mt Psiloritis is the Nida 「

Cretan Superstitions Dogs ac tに ated so poorly in Cに te that Cretans w‖ l name their dOg aier an enemy in Order to have the pleasure of ye‖ ing atit.The contemptfor dogs may stem from the behefthatthe hated Turks are reincarnated as dogs. Saints Eyes are o■ en missing from the frescoes:n old churches,possibly because Cretans beneved thatif yOu tOOk the plasterfЮ m a sainrs eye and fed ittO the Oblect of an amoЮ us

PaSSiOn,yOur10Ve WOり ld be returned. The fal1 0f(二 〇nStantinOple t(D the TurkS OCCurred On TueSday 29 AAay lZ:53.AAany Cretans sti‖ be‖ eve

in tin:ucky￢ uesday and avoid transacting irnPOrtant business on that day.

Donkeys are treated even、 へ ′ orse than dogs.Cretans have a variety of beliefs about donkeys ―that they carry the souls of people sentenced to purgatory orthat they rnay even house the ′ Os and can transforrn them― devil himseif.[)o■ keys POSSessed by the devil are ca‖ ed′ 4″ as々 θ seives into monstЮ us half‐ humans.

′ Baggy Trousers are、 へ Orn as Part of the tradltional Ciretan male dress. :tis a‖ eged that the y be'`born of trousers are baggy because of the Oithodox belief that the Saviour will litera‖ man''that is,ana‖ y,and the trousers w‖ i faci‖ tate this nliraculous bi■ h. South VVinds are sald to be uniucky because Knossos was destroyed、 blowing.

へ ′ hen a south wind was

↓ 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 ↓ ↓ ↓ 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

The aimost desetted cape■ gani and the rocky islet of CiralTlvousa in Crete's north‐ 、 ″est provide a ヽ へ ′ elcorne respite fronl the crovvded beaches of the isiand's no,thern coast

The small port town Of HOra sfakiOn is a welcome sight for the hordes of walkers who take on

Samaria Gorge.

St Paui neVer rnade it tO the small fishing village of Loutro.Ylou′

ll need to、

″alk or sailif you want to.

く 一 懸一 ︶ 輝． ‘ ・

Angelou― centre of Hanla's Venetian quarter

Blue shutters colour a narrow Hanla street

々

Stone arches are the main architectural feature of Gavalohori's Venetian buildings

Tourists are able to pick up a vast array of craft

in Hania's Venetian Quarter

Fishlng boats rnoored in Rethymno harbour

Nlght life― fishing boats provide a rornantic backdrop for those eating along Rethymno's waterfront

.ls that Zorba''(letting about in the streets of

Locals playlng backgammon outside a cafe in

Rethynlno

Rethymno.

VVelcornlng doon″ ays abound in Rethymno's rnaze of narrow streets

Harbour view of Agia(3allni― a popular tourist base for Phaestos and Agia Triada

My!opotamos Province―

is carpeted with、 vild f10、 vers in the early

Spring and yOu'1l nOtiCe many″ ′ α(rOund StOne shepherd's huts)along the '″ way.Al‐ though traditionally used tO nlake Crete's 、 vonderful yOgurts and cheeses, Inany of these huts have been abandOned tO dOgs and ´ chickens. 「 he nlountain's histOrically im― portant feature is the:deOn lcave thc place

where, according to legend, the gOd zeus

Panormo 161

The eXteriOr Of the mOnaStelγ (WhiCh iS Still a WOrking mOnaStery)iS COldly impreS―

(enetian church inside dates sive but the ヽ ν nrorn 1587 and has a richly decorated Re‐ naissance facade.()n the right Ofthe church a stair、

vay lcads to a small nluseuin that

coininenlorates

thc

history

of

the

nlonastery.

The monastely is open 8 am to l pin and

v/as reared.´ he cave rnay have been inhab‐

3.30 pin to 8 pnl every day and entry is nree.

ited in the early lヽ Jeolithic periOd but is now bcing excavated and is cIOsed tO visitOrs.

The smali museum has an admission charge of 700 di

I｀

There are several routes to Tinlios Stavros,the sunlnlit of Mt Psiloritis and to the ldeon Cave but yOu need tO be an expe―

Getting There&Away

rienced cliinber.・ rhe easiest route is to take

There are buses iom Rethymno to the monastery(30 minutes,500 dr)at 6 and

the paved road south fl‐ om Anogia to the point where it bec01nes a dilt track and then

noon and 4 pm.

lollow the signs.An altemttive route iom the west begins at the sinall village of Kouroutes,5knl south of Fourfouras on the

Mylopotamos

edge of the Arnari Valley.It's a 10krn、 valk

'om Kouroutes the EOS refuge Psiloritis. For to inforrnation cOntact on theMt Rethymno EOS(see the Rethymno section). ′ VLON:ARKAD10U

Movη

10.30 arn,and 2.30 prn,returning at 7 arn,

PrOVEnCe The Mylopotainos Province has some ofthe more dramatic scenery in n。 ■hem Crete. The coastline cast of Rethylnno is indented

Apκ αδ(oo

and pocknlarked、 vith、 vatel:γ Caves and iso―

rhis 16th‐ century nlonastery stands in at―

tractive hill country 23krn south― east Of

lated coves that are only'accessible by bOat. The chief resO● :s a10ng the nOrth cOast are

Rethymno.The most impressive building

Bali and PanOrmO. 「 hc

・

´

hilly interior con―

of the complex is the Venetian barOque

tains a scattering Of villages and farming

church.Its striking facadc has eight siender Corinthian coluinns and is tOpped by an Or―

towns that arejust beginning tO attract sOme

nate triple‐

´ belled to、 ver. his facade fea_ I｀

tures on the 100 dr note.

In November 1866 the Turks sent mas‐

tourism. Within this regiOn yOu will ind some OfCrete's lr10st Outstanding crais,in―

cluding the pottery at Margarites and the textiles at Anogia.

sive forces to quell insurrectiOns 、 vhich ν ゾ ere gathcring nlOnlentunl thrOughOut the

PANORMO

island.I「 Iundrcds Of rnen,、 Onlen and chil―

Panorino is one ofthe lesscr kno、 vn resOrts

∼ drcn who had ifled their villages used the

nl(onastery as a safe haven. When 2000 Turkish soldiers staged an attack On the building,rather than surrender,the Cretans setlight to a stOre Of gun pOwder.・ 「 he ex― ′

plosiOn killed everyone, rurks included, ´ except one small girl. 「 his sOle survivOr

on the nOrthern cOast dcspite the fact that it

has a sandy beach and is easy to getto nrorn Rethynino.It's a sinali village built on the site of an ancicnt settlenlent Of、

vhich little is kno、 n. COins fOund here indicate that ∼ the village flourished lrOnl the lst tO the 9th

centuries AI)、 vhen it、 vas destroyed by the

lived to a ripe old age in a villagc ncarby.

Saracens.´ hcre、 vas Once an early C〕 hristian

A bust ofthis wonlan,and the abbot who lit the gun pO、 vder, stand outside the monastery_

basilica of Agia Sophia, probably built

I｀

around the 6th century, and there are the ruins Of a(1)enOese castle on the harboun

162 My:opotamos Province―

(D)『 T｀

Ba!i

Things to Do

:entation&inforl■ ation

he bus stop is on the nlain road“Э utside of

There are a variety ofwater sports actiVities

town.The post ofnce is one block behind

avanable in Bali.Diving Centre Hippocam‐

the rernains ofthe〈 enoese castle.´

pos(1● 94 193)is on the port and ofFiers a

[〕

I｀

here is

`discover scuba diving'dive for 16,000 dr

no bank or OTE.

and boat dives lor 19,000 dr including

Places to Stay

equiplmlent.:Nearby is Water Sports Le■

The best accommodation in town is the ■iendly 2α ″ο′ 躙,ο J′ αε ″Л【 ο′ ι ′r・ 5′ 32〃

,

across the road i[om the beach,which has a poolin an interior garden and atractive stu‐ dios、 vith balconies for 1 0,000 dr.Nearby is L“ も P′ ″s′ ο″ r● 5′ 2′ 2,プ 12x5ノ イJイ ソ

(1●

eris

194102)which wilirent you a pedal boat

for 2000 dr an hour,a small canoe for 1500 dr an hout a sailboat for 12,000 dr fortwo hours and a jet ski for 6000 dr for ineen rninutes.Leneris also ofllers day-long and sunset cruises.

`ッ which has roorns for 8000/10,000 dr.AIso

０︶ 〓 Ｓヽ ”〓”Ｗ“

in tO、vn

but c10ser tO the nlain road is fri。

■″″′r●

5′

225,ノ aχ

5′

θノ 〃 aB‐ ClaSS

′ ′ ′

hOtel

with nlodern rooms for 10,000/12,000 dr.

Places to Stay l&Eat The mostluxurious hod in town is the Bα ′ ′

%2均

WhiCh Rα ″ αasι J“ 作 %′ 62,′ 在 has a swiin■ ling pool but no air‐ conditioning “

Getting There&Away Buses between Rethyrnno and lraklio stop on the main road outside oftown.

・ here are and rooins for 15,000/20,000 d■「 also ai卜 conditioned suites that run iom

25,000 drto 40,000 dL Althouま

it's m unin‐

spiring concrete structlre,most ofthe rooms

BAL] ● 0834

have sea views and you are rittt OVer the ′″ ″ Lο ″′ ach.Nea thc 3α ′ ,the 171'″ α B“ C力 9イ 29η h6 a SWimming p001and lα

Bali,38km east of Rethymno,has one of the rnost stunning settings on the north coast. No less than ive little coves are strung along the indented shore,marked by

hills, promontories and narrovピ, sandy

“

good value roorns fbr 10,000/15,000 di `・ r″ ′Jα ″″′ αο 力月【 ο″′r● 9イ 2ノ の is on top ofa cliffoveriooking a cove and has a swim‐ rning lpool and roorns for 12,000/18,000 di

beaches.I‐ Ielter― skelter developrnent around

Eジ″ R′ ″ Rο ο″sr奮

the coast has marred the natural beauty of

the beach ofthe sarne naine,has roo■ ls with

i3ali and the narro、 v beaches can become

9イ

25の ,overlooking

ildge for 8000/12,000 dr. И′α′ r″ ′ ″お

place to rent a boat to get the full el資 lect of

′ 2,is on a qulet st“ ∝ slightly inland iomthe po■ with rooms for

the drainatic landscape.

8000/12,000 dr. S″ ″′isι

crowded in the surnrner, but it's a great

F9ィ

Orientation&Inforrnat:on As you approach the reso■ ■om the main road you'll pass the Bali Paradise Bcach Hotel which overi。。ks the nrst and iargest ′ cove, lParadise 13each. 「 he next cove is

Kyma Bcach,lolowed by Bali Beach under the Bali Beach Hotel.There is a sma‖ beach along the port and the last beach on the ´ strand is called Evita Bcach. 「 here is no

bank: or post ofice but you can change

money at Racer Rent‐ a‐ Car on the lett as you entertown orin one ofthe inany travel agen‐

cies clustered around the coves. 1`ou can check lyour email at the internet cafe/video

games parlour(● 94135)on the po■

Iル ο ″ο″αルis r● 9イ

.

И′α′ ′ 用

な

'`″ 26υ is a pleasalt place omering apait_

rnents with a sea view for 10,000/15,000d■ ・ here are a、 vealth of cafes and restau― I｀

rantS CluStered a10ng the COVeS.Xン ″α R`srα ″″ α″′on lKyma Beach serves good value rneals in a pleasant seting.2α ″ο″ α″ overiooking the polllis another goo(l choice.

`″

Beter than any establishment in Bali is iイ ′ ″α′ ′ s in iRounleli village,、 vhich is out‐ standing both in the quality Of the cuisine and the authentically Cretan anlbience. It really gets going after nlidnight when

Mihalis ntight bring out his guitar for a ´ round of traditional Cretan tunes. 「 o get

there head to Panon.no and at the junction, turn right lollowing signs to Perallla.´ 「 urn

My:oPotainos Province― Margarites 163

left aftcr the bridge f0110ゝ′ ing signs to Rourneli. Mihalis is the only taverna in to、vn.It's

opcn 7 pm to l am daily.

ANOG:A ● 0834 Anogia, 37knl south― west of lraklio, is a bucolic village perched On the f00thills Of

lntertainment

´ rhe twO inost popular dance clubs in iBali g″ ″α are the″′ ″b atthe entrance to the ツ(〕′ to、vnt、 vhich

Mt Psiloritis,、 vhich gives it a nlore temper‐

ate climate than you'1l find on the cOasts. 1′

ongi kno、vn for its rebellious spirit,during

WヽVII Anogia、vas a ccntre of resistance to the Germans,who massacred allthe men in

is an open‐air space decorated as a tropical garden, ン♭′ εα″ο atthe top of the hil1 0ver100king the church and O″ :ri″ ′

the village in retaliatiOn fOr their rOle in

Rο ι たs,across ioin the church,which caters

sheltering Allied troops and aiding in the

nlore to teenagers.

kidnap of General Iく ricpe. The town's renowned、 veaving industry￢ ″as developed

Cetting There&Away Buses bet、 vccn lraklio and Rethyrnno drop

you at thc nlain road.

Cetting Around

by thc widows Ofthe lllassacred rnen whO 、 vere forced to support thenlselves the only 、 vay they could. Nowhcre on Crctc is the choice of 、 veavings and elTlbroidery as い′ ide― ranging. Even though the town has

Raccr Rent‐ a‐ Car(● 94149,fax 94 249) has an ofice atthe entrance to town and One atthe port and offers a good dea1 0n rentals.

becorne quite prosperous fiom cattle breed_

′ Vヽ ARGARITES

0『 ientatlon&inforrnation ′

Iく

nown for its ine pottery,this tiny tOwn is

invaded by tour buses in the n10rning but

ing, the wornen bring a deeply engrained sense of desperatiOn tO their sales pitches.

I｀

he town is spread out on a hillside with the

textile shops in the 10wer half and inOst ac‐

calill and you can cnJOy wonderful vie、 vs

cornrnodation and businesses in the upper hali There's a bank,post ofnce and()TE in

over the vallcy fronl the taverna terraces On

the upper village but there is no AT｀

the main square.

no place to change nloney. WithOut yOur

it's a brief interlude.By the a■

ernoOn all is

o、 vn

Orientation&inforrnation

M and

transport you'll face a steep hike to see

the uppcr portion ofto、 vn.

There is only one road that runs through to、 vn

to the to、 vn square、 hich is dorninated

∼

by giant cucalyptus trees.1｀

he bus stop is in

nront of a tavcrna on the lllain square and yOu'1l See Fnany CeramiCS ShOpS On the nlain street as、 vell as the side streets.′ There is nO

bank,post ofice or travcl agency.

Places to Stay&Eat ´

「 he only accornrnOdatiOn in tO、 vn is the spifら′f″ J″ f Иρα′ ′ ″′″な r・ 92ィ 9ィソwhich has roornsヽ vith kitchenettes lor 6000/8000 dr. Le■ of the main street, DJο ″ノS′ οis a good shOp tO buy hanl,sausage and black‐ berr)′ pies./ヽ 、 cross the strectis a cheese shop 、′ ith big、 vheeis oflocal checse.

Getting There&Away There are t、

vo buscs daily Monday to Friday

PIaces to Stay l&■ at At the top of the hill is the best hotel in 3ノ イ 5,WhiCh haS simple but we‖ ―Outitted rOOms fOr `・

tOWn,“ οた′И″お′ ′α

6000/8000 di Views are great■ om the bal_ conies.Downhill is R`″ ′Rο ο″s Ps′ ′ ο″′ ′ s r雪 3ノ

ノ9り which has simple,homey rooms

for 6000 di Nearby is R′ ″′ Rο ο ″sИ ′ ■α″F r● 3ノ

θ99 which has comparable rooms at

the sanle price. Farther down the hill is Rο ο″s∠ ′is r● 3ノ イ6θ ,_′ 7χ J′ θ5の which also has roorns for 5000/6000 dr. In the _ lo、 ver to、 vn the only accOnln10datiOn is 7′ ッ ″αα″″R′ ″′Rο ο″sK′ ″οs r・ 3ノ イ2o, `′ which has double roorns for 6000 di P′ isJ″ ゴ 1'lο ′ ′ αis one ofseveraltavenlas in the lo、

ver village but it's particularly attrac―

tive and scrvcs decent(Cretan food, al― though it can gct Overrun、 vith tour buscs.

'om Rcthymno(30 minutes,600 dr).

164 Agios Viasileios Province―

Spi:i

Getting There&Away

′

rhere are ive buses daily nr。 .l

lrakli。

(one hout 750 dr);and t、 vo buses daily Mon―

day to Friday'om Rethymno(1%hours, 1050 do.

Provlnce ´ I｀

he Agios Vasileios Province begins at

Arrneni in the north and ends at the south

AROUND ANOG:A The roads leading no■

Agios Viasileios

cOast. It is a region of gently rolling hills h‐

west lrom Anogia

to the snlali cornrnercial centre of iPerarna

are stunning and pass through a series of cosiy villagcs and bustling nlarket towns ・ along the foothilis of Mt Psiloritis. 「 he noll:hern road takes you to the village of Axos with the kind oflazy Cretan anlbience that has ■lade it a popular stop for tour

buses iom lraklio and Rethymno.

ibyan Sea.´ 「 he capital ofthe province is Spili and the south includes the beach resorts of Agia(〕 alini, Plakias and Moni

the l_′

Preveli.

Heading south iom Rethymno,there is a turn_Off tO the right to the late Minoan

During the day the village is quiet but at

night the few tavernas with open―

and pretty drives along good roads.As you near the coast the scenery becornes nlore dramatic and takes in nlarvellous views of

air ter‐

Cemetery of Armeni,2km before the mod‐

ern village of Armeni.Some 200 tombs

tourists. Follo、 ving this rural road you'11

were carved intO the rock be"een 1300 and l150 BC in the midst of an oak forest.The

corne next to the pretty, shady to、 vn of

curious feature ofthis cenletery is that there

races host`Cretan folklore evenings'for the

(Elarazol which has a couple of tavernas, a

dOes not seern to have been any sizeable

post ofnce and a bank.

tOwn nearby v′ hich would have accounted

The rOute continues north and crosses

for so many torribs.Pottery,weapons and

the highway to arrive at Me:idoni with a

jewellery excavated iom the tombs are

fascinating cave to explore.()ver 300 vil―

now on display at the Archaeological Mu‐

lagers tOok refuge in the cave in 1824 from the Turkish ariny. When they re‐ fused orders to ernerge,the′ rurks threw

seum in Rethymno.

burning nlaterials through a hole in the tOp ofthe cave and everyone was asphyx― iated.After paying homage to the rnartyrs

SPILI Σπ

t

l:'0832 o postcode 740 53 0 pop 700 `λ Spili(Spee― leC)iS a gOrgeOuS inOuntain to、

vn with cobbled streets,rustic houses and

series of chambers inlled with stalactites

plane trees. Its centrepiece is a unique Venetian fountain which spu■ s water iom

and stalagnlites.

19 1ion heads.

at a rnOnument,yOu can wanderthrough a

The southern route iom Anogia to Perama is equally scenic.The largest town in the region is Zoniana, where everyone secrns tO be dressed in black and driving pick‐

up trucks. Look lor signs to the

Sendoni《 :ave.

I)espite its distance nronl the coast,spili

is no longer an undiscovered hideaway.

´

I10urist buses on their way to the south coast bring a fair anlount of visitors to Spili dur―

ing thc day butin the evening the town be― longs to the locals.

Whether named all,er a rebel or a robber

according to local legend, Sendoni is thc mOst spcctacular cave on the island.Stalac‐ tites, stalaglnites and strange rock lornla‐

tiOns nlake the visit an eerie experience. ´ 「 he front of the cave was a hideout lor c〕 reck nghters against the´ 「 urks but rnOst Of the large cave、 vas undisturbed.Walk、 vays

Orientatlon&infor『nation

・ he post。 1lce and bank are on the nlain r・

street.The()TE is up a side street,north of the central square.´ rhe bus stOp isjust sOuth

ofthe square

Places to Stay&■ at

nlake exPloration easier but it's still inlpor―

Cr′ ι ″〃ο″′r●

tant to watch your step.

lice station on the rnain street is a horney

2222〃

across lrom the po‐

Agios Vasi:eios Province― Around Spi:i 165

place practically buried under plants and

tinues through Lefkogia, then passes the

vines that also flll the interior. Atractive roorns、 vith private bath are 5000/6000 dr. Behind(]reen Hotel is IIlι ′ α ′ ″s s RIο ο

turn‐ off

`′ 作 22′ 〃,ヵ χ 22イ 〃りWhere Sparkling,

beautin_11ly nlrnished roo,ls cost 5000/8000

dr with privac bathr00m. Funher along,on the le貴 ,Cο srο s I″ ″r雪 22θ イθ/75の has well― kept,ornate rooms with satellite TV,radiO and the use Of a v/ashing machine.I)oubles/triples、 ′ ith pri― vate bathroonl cost 8000/9000 dr.

Another good choice is S″″s′ ′Rο ο′ "s r● 223θ の which has doubles for 5000 dr with private bath. 7レ ッ ″αlsirrα ′ ′ ″ ル′ s,Op_ lα

for Myrthios(2km)and enters

Plakias.

PLAKIAS

Πλακld9

13,0832 0 postcode 740 602 0 poP 100

・ 「 he south coastto、 vn of Plakias、 vas oncc a tranquil fishing village belore it became a

retreat for adventurous backpackers. 1｀ he package tour operators discovered the llne beaches and dranlatic nlountain backdrop in

the 70's and Plakias becarllo one of the larger resorts on the south coast.It's still not

a bad place to visit outside peak scason and therc are sonle good walks.

`′ posite Costos lnn, serves excellent trad

itionallGreek dishes.The specials ofthe day are in pots at the back ofthe roorn.

0『 ientation&Inforrnation lt's casy to ifind your、 vay around Plakias.

GelHting There&Away

(:)ne street sikirts the long sandy beach and another runs parallel to it one block back. The bus stop is at the iniddie of the water―

Spili is on the Rethymno― Agia Galini bus route.

lront.´

I｀

he 30 minute path to Mythos begins

just beお re thc youth hostel.Plakias docsn't

AROUND SPIL:

have a bank, but Monza T｀ ravel Agency

Most people corne to the alluring little vil―

(●

41 433 or 311 923),near the bus stop,oF ´

lage of PatsOs tO visit the nearby(Clhurch of

fers currency exchange. Finikas

Agios Antonios in a cave above a pic‐

(`口

I｀

ravel

turesque gorge.

'31 785)is also a good source ofinfor‐ mation and rents cars. It's open 9 arn to

The cave was an impo■ ant sanctuary for the Minoans and the Romans,and is still a

ofince on the waterfront.

7 pm daily.In surnrner there is a nlobile post

pilgriinage destination on 1 7 January.ヽ

`ou can drive here fronl Rethyrnno,or you can walk■ om Spili along a sccnic 10km dirt

Things to Do

track.

1。 ng scuba diving programs and a ccrtinca_ vell as snorkelling trips. tion course as 、

Tlo rcach thc track,walk along 28()cto― ber,passing the lion fountain on your right. ´ 「 urn right ontoヽ ,4ermopilan and ascend to the spili_〈 erakari road. [〕

´ rurn right here

and eventually you will corne to a sign for ´ (llerakari. rake the dirt track to the left, and at thc fork bear right.Atthe crossroads

turn right,and continue on the inain track junction on the for about one hour to a・ 「―

outskirts of Patsos.´ urn left to get to the I｀

cave.

SPlL1 70 PLAKIAS AIter the village of Koxare on the Plakias road,the road enters the dralnatic Kourtali― otis Gorge.A■ er Astomatis villagc there is a turnぃ off

for Moni Preveli The road con― ■日

■日

Aegean Diving Shop(● 31206)omers day‐

Plakias is an excellent base to explore the sul■ ounding

region since you don't have to

walk very far out ofto、vn to ind yourselfin the middle of fields and greenery.

´ here are well― v/orn paths uphill to I｀

Myrthios overiooking the sea and to the scenic village of Sellia,the Moni Finikas, Lefkogia,and a lovely walk along the spec― orge to Moni Preveli. A booklet of、 ′ alks around Plakias is on sale

tacular Kourtaliotis(〕

∼ atthe minimarket by the bus stop(1200 dr). ´ here is a daily excurslon boat,theレ ♭″″s 「 Eフ ″ss,that leaves at 10 am'om Aprilto ()ctober for a trip to Moni Preveli for 2500

dr rcturn. For bookings ask at thc super‐ market across■ om Tavcrna Christo.

166 Agios Vasileios Province―

P!akias

Piaces to Stay Camping(E)n thc right Of the main ap― proach road to Plakias,(]α ″P,′ ′ ,gし4′ ο ′ ο″′ α ′ 3′ J′ の haS a reStaurant,minimarket, bar and swimming pool.Rates are 900 dr `・

‐ lor ll,000/14,000 diハ √ ′ 4′ ′ α″′ 力οs(,α ″ `ο ″ι″ r・ 3ノ 2∂ の is at the entrance to town next to the road overlooking the sea. It's cornfortably furnished in traditional Cretan

style and has two pools. Roorns are

tucked a、 vay in the olive trees behind the

18,000/25,000 dr. The Fα 夕psο c′ ι″″ И〃αg′ rtt Jノ 29の is 5knl east of Plakias along the road to Lefkogia and、 vas the lrst nudist colony in

town,10 minutes walk iOm the bus stOp―

Crete.It's a snlall village of 102 bungalo、

follow the yellow signs lrom the wateriont. I:)orm beds are 1200 dr and hotsho、 vers are

secreted in woods overlooking the sea.

■ee.The hostel is open■ om l April until

boats take you to I)amnoni beach and

the end of(1)ctober.

Plakias. I)oubles are 35,000 dr including

per person and 600 dr per tent.

Hostel The excellent yο ″′ ″ 力οs′ ′′is

vs

There is a pool, tennis courts and hotel

”〓トロ饂 ０〓嘔﹁

fbll board.

E)omatia Nextto the bus stop,ハイ ′ αs ′力ι R′ ″′Rο ο ″sr・ 3ノ 5∂ 〃 has light,airy and

Places to■ at

attractively furnished roorns. Prices are

R′ s′α ′ α″′И′ ′ α″″ι,on the street opposite

7000/10,000 dr with private bathroom. ・ here are sorne agreeable pensions tucked

“ the rllobile post ofice, is a popular place 、 vith reasonable prices. (:)ne of the best waterfront tavernas is vith a ronlantic terrace 7レ ッ ″α(,￨力 ′ is′ ο s 、 `′ overlooking the sea.It has a good choice of inain dishes for around 1450 dr.

iο

I｀

anlong the olive trees behind the town.P′ ″―

ο″ 4ル ο″た 3′ 26の has spotless doubles/triples `● for 1 0,000/13,000 dr、 ′ ith

S′

private bathroorn. Head inland at Monza Travel Agency,tum le■ at the Ttunction

and then take the first right and you will corne to the pension on the len‐ after loom. A right turn at the T」 unction lcads to s′ ″ ″οE″ ″αr・ 3/3θ の,set back in the trees to the left aftcr 100nl. It charges 6000/7000 dr for large doubles/triples up― stairs with private bathroom and access to a

N′ ■ο s肋 ッ′α″,justinland iom Monza ´ “ is a good souvlaki place, ravel Agency, I｀

v/here a monster rnixed grill of gyros,sou‐

vlaki, sausage,hamburger and chips costs 1500 dr.()n the western end ofthe beach try ″s′ ′for an excellent alTay of local spe― cialities.Next to thc Plakias IBeach I-lotcl, g′ ′ 」 Flα ′ ′ ″′ ″Os is also a good bct. `S'“

、 vell‐ equipped cornrnunal kitchen; Studios

grcat position atthe southern end Of Plakias beach.I)leasant doubles with bathroorn cost

■ntertainnlent Plakias has a good nightlife scene in the summer D′ s`ο ルf′ ′ ′ F and Dお εο〃ι χα‐ `″ conveniently I。 ― gο ″ are both popular and

6000 dr,and studio doubles are 7000 dr.

cated in the to、 vn centrc.

Hoteis P′ α 力′ αs 3αッr・ J′ Jノ 5ソ is a C― class hotcl on the beach.Roorns are sparsely out― ntted and cost 12,000/15,000 dr、 vith break― ねSt.Pα ′ ω S И′ ′ ″οS ρ 3′ ∂5ノ ,力χ J′ ノ9〃 iS at the "″ eaStem Cnd OfthC bCaCh and has a pool and air― conditioned roorns for ッ 15,000/20,000 dr flο ′ ι′ ッ″ο″ 3/2ノ

Cetting There&Away

do、 vnstairs

cost 8000 dr.

g′ ι Pι ″s′ ο ″Pα ′ ′ ″″οs r・

χJノ 27〃 ′″

3ノ

θθ〃 has a

`′ is on the sea■ ont and has rooms ` `1●

for 12,000/15,000 dr.

月【 0″ たο ″B′ α `″

r● 3′

right outside the to、

イ7α ノaχ

′ ∼n centre

3′

′76り

is

in a quiet io―

cation overlooking the beach and has roorns

Plakias has good bus connections in sum―

mer, but virtually nonc in winter.A timetable is displayed at the bus stop.Sum―

incr scrvices include lour buses a day to

Rethymno(one hou■ 950 dr)and one to I-lora Sfakion. In 、′ inter there are three buses a day to Rethylmno,two at weckends.

It's possible to get to Agia Galini'onl Plakias by catching a Rethymno bus to the

Koxare junction(referred to as Bale on timetables)and waitingお r a bus to Agia

Agios Vasi:eios Province― Around P:akias 167

Galini.This works best with the ll.30 pm buS iOm Plakias,linking with the 12.45 pm service iom Rethymno to Agia Galini.

Abbot Agathangelos before their evacua― tion to lEgypt. In retaliation, the(Gerinans

Cetting Around Odyssia(奮 31596),on the、′ ater■ Ont,has a large range ofinOtOrcycles and l■ ountain bikes.Cars Allianthos(● 31851)is a reli―

From the road to the monastery,a track ′to

Myrthios M6pOtoS

leads do、 vnhill to Preveli Beach.EntIう

´

his I)lcasant village is perched on a hillside

overlooking Plakias and the surrounding coast.Apart'oln taking in the views,the lTlain activity is、 valking,which yOu'1l be doing a lot of unless yOu have yOur own

the monastery and rnuseurn costs 700 dt lt's open 8 am to 7 prn mid― March through Maly,and 8 anlto l.30 prn and 3.30 to 8 prn June to(I)ctober.

Gelning There&Away ln summerthere

.

are tWo buses a day[om Rethymno to Places to Stay&Eat There are a few do―

Moni Preveli.

rnatia in the village,including the cOmfOrt_ able N′ ″ な Sr″ ″οs a Rο ο″sr・ 3ノ 59〃

,

just below Restaurant Panorama.Rooms ヽ′ ith private bathroom cost 3500/6000 dち

Preveli Beach IIIα pα λ l,Ip`β εληG P“ veli Bcach,試 the mouth `α ofthe Kounalio‐

″″″′Pα ″ο′ α″,α lives up to its narne;it has “

tis Golge,is One OfCК te's mOst photographed beaches.´ he rlver Megalopotanlos cuts the be¨ h in halfon its way into the Libyan Sea

great views.It alsO dOes gOod food,includ‐ ing vegetarian dishes and deliciOus dessens.

trees and is pOpula￢ ″ith

Moni Preve:llMovl

and you'1l connc to cold,fteshwater p001s

and a studio costs 8000 dr fOr t、

v。 .R′ srα

_

Πp6β ε λ■

The well‐ 11laintained Moni Preveli stands in Splendid iS01ation high above the Libyan

Sea. Froin the parking 10t Outside the

inonastery, there's a 100kOut with a panoramic vie、 ′over the sOuthern cOast.It would be worthwhile making the trip for the vie、′alone but the monastery itself has an

I｀

lt's,inged with Olealder bushes and palrn n・ eelance canpers. Walk up the palm‐ lined banks ofthe river

ideal for a swim.A steep path leads dov7n to

the beach lrorn the road to Moni Preveli. Yiou can getto Preveli fl‐ om Plakias by boat in surnrner for 2500 dr return or by taxi boat

iom Agia Galini for 5000 dr return.

Beaches between Plakias

′ interesting histOry. rhe origins of thc

&Preveli

rnonastelD′ are unclear because rnOst histor―

ical docurnents were 10st in the nlany at‐ tacks inflicted upOn it Over the centuries.

´ rhe year`1701'is carved on the monastery

Between Plakias and Preveli 13each thcre are several secluded coves pOpular 、′ ith n・ eelance canlpers and nudists. sonle are v′ ithin walking distance Of Plakias, via

lountain but it nlay have been lounded

I:)arllnoni Bcach.1｀ o reach thern ascend the

nluch earlier.

path behind the Plakias 13ay Hotel.Just be‐ lore the track sta■ls to descend, turn right into an olive grOve. Atthe irst T増 unctiOn turn len and atthe

Like most of Crete's mOnasterics, it played a signillcant role in the isianders're―

´

bellion against 「 urkish rule. lt becaine a

centre of resistance during 1866, causing the Turks to set ire to it and destrOy sur―

rounding crops.Aner the Battle Of Crete, Iτ

lany/ヽ llicd sOldiersぃ 7ere sheltered here by

second turn right. Where six tracks ineet, take the one signposted tO the beach.VValk to the end ofIDarnnoni Beach and take the track to the right,、 vhich passes abOve the

一・  ︱   ”ｍ■〓く彗 〓ｏ

Mihail Prevelis.

AROuND PLAKlAS

transpo■

icOn screen cOntaining a gaily painted Иグα″ α″′ Eッ ′″ 乃 ″′おιby the l■ Onk

able car― hire outlet.

I｀

plundered the monastery. The lTЮ nastery's museum cOntains a candelabra prescnted by gratenul British soldiers after the 、 van Built in 1835, the church is worth a visit 10r the、vOnderful

168 AgiOs Vasi:eios Province―

Agia Ga:ini

cOves.I)anlnoni Bcach itselfis pleasant out

of high season,despite being dorninated by the giant Hapimag tourist conlplex.

AG:A CALINI Aγ 〔α

αλη Vη 「 56 o poP 600 stcode 740

■

'0832 o p● Agia Galini(A― ya Ga‐ iee‐ nec)is another picturesque little to、 vn

which has gone

down the tubcs due to an overdose of tOurisin.Before the advent ofmass tourisin Agia Calini was a pon ofthe ancient town ofSybritos.Atthe tunl ofthe century it was pOpulated by families lrom nearby inoun― tain villages who built a clustcr of white houses around the harbour ´ I｀

he late-19th‐ century to、 vn is the core of

Agia(〕 alini's appeal even though the shoul―

der to shoulder crowds at the height ofthe

8000 dr and a tour ofヽ vest Crete that in― cludes Moni Arkadiou, Lake lく :ournas and Rethylnno for 9000 dr.

PIaces to Stay

・ 「 here is no shortage of places to stay in Agia(〕 alini at eVery price level althOugh you nlay have trouble inding the roorn of your drearns atthe height ofthe season.・ he I｀

village is a popular destination for the pack―

age tOur rnarket and inany ofthc hotels are pre― booked by tour operators.Still you will generally ind that the pricc― quality ratio is

quite high,and you can always bargain. ,″ ′cα ca:mping Иg′ αGα′ ″″gr・

9ノ

east of 386/2J〃 is nexttO the beach,2.5km “ the town.It is signposted ilom the lraklio‐

season obscure the town's undeniable

Agia Galini road.The site is well‐ shaded

charl■ 1.still,it

and has a restaurant, snack bar and rnini―

does boast 340 days ofsun‐

shine a year, and sorne places do rernain

nlarket.

Open Out of scason. It,s a convenient base nroin which to visit

Dolmatia On the rOad tO tOWn

Phaestos and Agia´ riada,and although the

2イ

town beach is more dilt than sand,there are boats to better beaches.

οs r,9f f6イ ソoffers studios with Иgα P′ ′

Orlentatlon&inforrnation

apa■ ments with a patio for 12,000 dr.

The bus statiOn is at the top of Eleftheriou ヽ v4enizelou,the rnain street,which is a con―

3θ イソ iS OVer a neヽ

tinuation of the approach road.The central

roorns with private bath and a balcony for

square, which overlooks the harbour, is downhill■ om the bus station.You'1l walk

5000/6000 dL

past the post ofnce on the way as well as a

s′

I・

nuinber OfhOtels and dOmatia,andthe OTE is on the square.´「 here is no bank but you

′r● 9ノ Иr′′ の has pleasant rooms with a private bath

and balcOny for 6000/10,000 dr.´

I｀

he nearby

fans for 6000/8000 dr and five‐ person

′ ″a r宙 . In the centre Of town 24″ gι ′

VSpaper kiOSk and haS

′

he only accornmodation on the beach is 3〃 ,where studios 9ノ イ 10r twO Or threc people cost 12,000/13,000 di c″ ″″αRο ο″sr● 9′ 2θ 〃 has very I｀

οc力 οs Rο ο″sr●

cm change mOney■ Cretan HOlidayS(奮 91

baSiC rOOFnS With bath fOr 3000/4000 di′

241)as well as many other places.There is a laundry just or the main square Open lo

get there take the irst left opposite the post

am to 2 prn and 5 to 10 prn daily.´ 1lo lind the

9′

I'o

ofice.

the harbour.

Hoteis The D― class力「ο″′S′ ″″α r奮 9f 27〃 has pleasant roomS fOr 10,000/12,000

Organised■ ours

dr with private bathroorn.It's open all ycar To reach the hotel,walk downhill■ oln the

beach take the rocky path leading let'om

Monza Travel(■'91278)offers boat ex‐

cursiOns tO Preveli for 5000 dr,a day-long ishing excursion lor 7000 dr, and a boat trip tO the lovely beach ofAgios Pavios for

bus station,turn let after the post ofice, take the second turning right and turn left at the steps.

(3)n the right side of the nlain road is

3000 dr. Cretan Holidays offers rninibus

肋 ″′nsα ″わ sr奮 漁 χ9ノ イθの,a pretリ

tOurs tO Iく nOssOs for 9500 dr,a tour ofsouth

white building overhling with vines that has

〕 rete that includes Zaros and Phaestos lor

a roof garden and snlall roorns with sea

(二

Agios Vasi:eios Province― Agia(3aiini 169

vic、 vs

for 6000/7000 dL including conti―

nental breakfast.()n a quiet side street lead‐

ing offthe nlain road into town,the f弓 ′ッ″ ο F9′ 2ら ,ヵ χ9ノ イ7〃 has attractively缶 ―

vs and decent food. It's open ll am to midnight daily. 0″ α′ overlooks the harbour and is a good iplace ing roorns with sea vie、

nished doubles for 17,000 dr,or 19,000 dr

to corne for breakfast, ice creanl or cock‐ tails.It's open 8 am to l arn daily March to

with ai卜 conditioning.

Novernbe■

Nearby is lο ′ ′ ′G′α′ οs r● 9′ ノ5ノ ,ヵ χ9′ ′ _59ソ that haS a p001 and dOubleS With Sea Or

Atthe end ofthc harbour near the beach, ′ 4″ ′ ルαs is a quiet cafe― bar,half buried be‐ hind nowering plants,that is popular with backpackers.It's open 9 am to l anl daily. For self‐ catering there is a s“ P′ ″ ″ ′ ル′′up `″ the street,om the bus station on the le食 side and aみ α■′′ ,'do、vn the strect lrorn the

rnountain views for 15,000 dr.Atthe top of the hillleading into town is E′

lσ r′ rο

r,9′

′ ∂乙ノ ン x9ノ イ 9〃 which is a new hotcl that oftrs rooms with views of the sea for 13,000/16,000 dr. J`0″ ′ИsrO′ ′ ar奮 9′ 253,ノ blχ 9′ ノ5〃 often has roorns available when other places are booked.It's a sleek,rnoderll hotel with air‐

conditioned roorns that have views of

bus station on the right side.

Entertainment Agia(〕 alini's nightlife centres on′ raverna

the sea or the mountains. Prices are

street.・ rhe most popular dance clubs are the

15,000/17,000 dr,including a srnall bufiet

J“■ι うο%(g′ ″ら

breakfast.

CI′

Nearer to the beach is lο ′ ′ ′Rιαr● 39α

bχ ノ

9ノ

9′

′ 9の which is a small,modern

hotel that offers tidy roorns with white walls

and pine noors for 6000/8000 dr.You、 411 find it atthe bottom ofthe rnain road on the

αra″Fsι (デ′ ″らand EscαP′ "′ う which are open aier ll pm nightly in 「 the“ summer but weekends only in the win‐ ter.Jukebox plays Greck music aier 2 ain; Paradise has a rooiop garden‐ bari and Es‐ cape Club plays 70s and 80s rock_Along the harbouL Zο ′ うαs is another popular venue.

right.

Cettlng Around Places to Eat

Mano's Bikc(1'91551),opposite the post

gα ′ Rι s′ α ′ α″″Иι ο″おsJs,nearthe bus stop,

ofice,rents scootcrs and motorcycles,and Monza Travel(奮 91278)rents cars.

is one“ofthe town's cheapest restaurants,if not the nriendliest. It's open 9 anl to rnid_ night daily.■ ィ ι″ sα raッ ′″ ″α in the tOwn lο

Cetting There&Away

centre is owned by“a German/Greek couple and presents a inenu of specialties 6rom

beach resol・ ts: heaps of buses in surnrner,

both countries.It's open noon to 2 anl daily April to Octobe■

there are eight buses a day to lraklio(2%

´ 4ε ″ ο′0′ 7レ ッ ″α, on 「 he upmarket ン Vasileos loannis,has an extensive`′inenu of

Bus´ rhe stOry is the same as at the Other skeletal services in winter. In peak season

hours,1500 dr),four to Rethymno(1%

both Greek and international dishes. A

hours,1300 dr),six to Matala(45 minutes, 600 dr)and six to Phaestos(40 minutes,420

rneal for two、 ′ ith wine costs around 6000

dr).YOu Can get tO PlakiaS by taking a

dr. It's open 6.30 pnl to rnidnight daily

Rethyrnno‐ bound

Aprilto Octoben

Koxare(Bale).

Lα Sν ′ α″αpizzeria is on the

bus and changing at

■rst strect

zas,pastas and risotto for about 2000 dr.It's

TlaxI Boat in summer there are daily taxi boats florn the harbour to the beaches of

open noon to 3 prn and 6 prn to midnight

Agios Giorgios and Agios Pavlos.These

daily. ´ 「 he rnost elaborate restaurant―

beaches,which are west ofAgia Galini,are difincult to get to by land. Both are less ′ cro、 へ ded than,and far superior to,the Agia

lefl ofthe bus station and has excellent piz―

みαs at the end of the harbour

― bar is`ζ ο′ 、 vhich has

three levels of comfortably furnished din―

(:〕

alini beach.

lraklio ′ 「 he lraklio regiOn inay nOt be Crete's rnost beautinll region but as the isiand,s nlain

H:G H LiG HTS

point of enti)′

for tourisnl it is undoubtedly the busiest.The twin poles OfCretan culture

・ Exploring the ruins of the lVヽ inoan

一inass tourism and Minoan archaeology― are ainply represented in the region.The nolllhern coast of lraklio has surrendered

・ Languishing on the long,sandy beaches of Matala,Kalamaki and

civi!isation at Knossos and Phaestos

Lendas on the south coast

lock,stock and ball,01 tO package tOurisnl. The eastern resonls of Malia and llersonis‐

e lndulging in the live!y nightlife and cafe scene lof the is!and's capital,

sos sum up for Cretans evelything tha is

:raklio

wrong with inass tourism.Yet behind the

・ Enioying the cooi mountain air of

concrete sea‐ banrier ofhOtels lie the island's

Zaros

lnost fhscinating archae010gical sites strewn throughout the nearly dese■ ed interiOr.

Knossos, Phaestos, Agia′ riada, Gortyn, and Malia are all within a day trip iom I・

lraklio.The southenl coast is quieter than the no■ lhenl coast;Matala is fhirly devel‐

oped but Keratokarnbos and Arvi provide a nlorc tranquil vacation experience.

lRAKL10 Hpα ηλει 。

1'081 0 postcode 710 01

● pop 127,600

Iectic,noisy and trafHc‐ ridden, IrakliO is mainly vicwed as a grim necessity tO be en― dured食 )rthe sake ofa・ chacology.A■ er the obligatory visit to the Archaeological Mu‐

Mahメ

1‐

０¨ コ︼く配︼

"

seunl and Knossos, most visitors hurry away to rnore inviting spots.

Yiet,as Crete's capital and Greece's5th largest city,Iraklio manages to achieve a certain urban sophistication despite its poor infTastructure.′

I｀

出 凸 凸 占 占 ↓ 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

he city is prOsperOus;

many neighbourhoods have been rebuilt

Hlstory

and there are enough drachrnas around to suppollt a thriving cafc scene and lively

lraklio is believed to have been settled since the Neolithic age.tJnderthe Minoans it became the harbour of Knossos.Little is known about the intervening years but in 824 AI)Iraklio was conquered by the Sara‐ cens and becarlle known as Rabdh elIく han‐

nightlife.

The Archaeological Museum and the palace at Kmossos are a window into Mi‐ noan culture but lraklio abounds in other re‐

′ nlinders Of its turbulent hist。 「y. rhe ienetian walls and fo」 :ress 14th‐ century ヽ underSCOre the impOrtanCe Of lrakli。

caned candiり

1。

dak(Castle of the Ditch),aner the moat that surrounded their fortined town.It was reputedlly the siave‐ trade capital ofthe cast―

(then

the venetians md many

ern Mediterranean an(l the launching pad

ienetian occupatiOn. nlonurnents date fi・ olnlヽプ Noticc Morosini lFountain, the ヽ /ienetian Loggia and Agios Markos Church.

for the region's nOtOrious pirates, whO preyed upon unwary ships,looted thern and S01d the CaptiVe SeaFnen intO SIaVery.

170

:raklio 171

IRAKL10)RECi《 )N

﹂ Ｔ 輩一

一 エト一 いいくコ

Ｉ ︲Ｌ 卜椰 ｌ 眸Ｉ １ ⅢＴ １ Ｉ”

A

p

ヽ 瞬 ヽ１ ヽ ヽ ０ ビ ヽｏミ ｏト

︱′ ︱ レ″ ヽ

０ ２ ｃくトエ トШ“

むヽ い

りＬ材も一ミ

一 〓﹁０ ”ヽく ・

172 :rak:io― (C)rientat:on

Byzantine troops Anally dislodged the Arabs a■ er a siege which lasted almost a ycarin 961 AI).The Byzantine leader Niki―

A Bunch of Bu‖ ? After King Minos' wife, Pasiphae, gave

loras FokaS Fnade a laSting impreSSiOn upOn

birth to the Minotaur, her iovei the bull,

the Arabs by chopping ofFthe heads Of his prisoners and thrO、 ving them over the walls

went vvild and laid waste to the Cretan countryside.He was out of contrOI,tearing

uP CroPS and stanlping dovvn orchard

ofthe fo■ ress.

The city became known as Chandakas

wa‖ s.Fortunately,helP Was at hand in the

and renlained the isiand's capital until Crete

form of iron― man

v/as sold to tlle

once ki‖ ed a lion、 ″ith his bare hands.His

´ ヽ ´ enetians in 1204. 「 he

｀ 14enetians also chose the city as the island's capital and named it Candia.´

I｀

he｀ Vienetians

built inagnincent public buildings and churches,and barricaded thenlseives inside the fo■ ress when necessary to prOtectthein―

selves against a rebellious pOpulace.

lJnder the Venetians(E)andia becaine a centre for the arts and residence for I)ainters

such as Damaskinos and EI Greco.When the Turks captured ConstantinOple the、 valls ofthe fortress、 vhere fOrtilled and extended in anticipation ofthe gro、 ving Turkish rnen― ace.Although the・「 urks quickly overran the island in 1645 ittook thern 21 years to pen― etrate the walls Of Candia.

Heracles,the man who

voyage to (:rete to kill the bull was the seventh of his 12 rr,ighty labours. Minos offered to help but Heracles、 ″ould have

none of it As the monstrous animal belched flarnes and furnes, Heracles cap― tured it single― handedly and took it away.

The ancient Cretans were so grateful that they narned Minos' port city after their superman.And that's how lrak‖ o(lraklion, Herak‖ on)gotits name.

聰 由 凸 巾 鰤 立 些 鰤 些 些 瞼 凸 narned lraklio and it resulned its position as

C)ther European countries sent nlen and supplies■om timeto time butit was mainly the strength ofthe wans that keptthe Turks

adrninistrative centre in 1 971.

at bay. Pounding the walis with cannOns

was destroyed by bOmbing.

proved inel「 iective so the´ urks inally re‐ SOrted tO bribery.´ hey managed to pay a 「 ienetian colonel to reveal the weak points

Orientatう on lrak!io's two main squares are Plateia

I｀

in the、vall and thus、 vere able tO capture it in 1669.([〕 asualties wcrc high on bOth sides;

the'Vienetian defcnders lost 30,000 rnen and the・ 「 urks lost l18,000 rnen.

Thc city suffered badly in WWII,when nlost of the oldヽ ienetian and´ urkish to、 vn I・

｀ 4enizelou and Plateia Eleftherias. Piateia 、 ｀ v`enizelou, instantly recognisable by its ねmous Morosini Fountain(bctter known as the Lion Fountain),is the heart of the city and the best place nrom、 vhich to familiarise

Under the Turks the city became knOwn as Mcgalo Kastro(Big Castle).A cloud of darkness descended upon the city under

´ yourself with the layout Of lrakliO. 「 he

Turkish rule.A■ istic lit withered away and

of the square. Fronl here, 25 Avgoustou

most cretans ned or were massacred.

runs no■

On August 25 1898 a Turkish mob mas‐ sacred hundreds of Cretans, 1 7 1British sol―

diers and the British (3onsul in lraklio. Within weeks,a squadrOn Of British ships stearned into lrakliO's harbOur and ended

Ciり 'S majOrinterSeCtiOn iS a tW StepS SOuth

h‐ east to the harbour;E)ikeosynis runs south― east to lPlateia Ellefl:herias; Kalokerinou runs west to the Hania Gatc;

1866(thc market street)runs south;and ′ 1821 runs to the south― 、 vest. I.o reach Plateiaヽ vienize10u frOm the quay,turn right,

urkish rule on(3rete foreven Iania becanle the capita1 0findependent Crete atthe end ofl・ urkish rule in 1 898,but

、 valk a10ng the waternront and turn le■ :。 nt。 25 Avgoustou.

(1)andia's ccntra1 location soon saw it

Station A,on the Ⅵ′ atcriont between the

ennerge as the cornrnercial centre.It、

quay and 25 Avgoustou, serves eastern

l｀

I―

vas re―

Iraklio has three intercity bus stations.

:raklio―

information 173

Crete.A special bus station which services Hania and Rethymno is opposite StaiOn A.

2 pnl on Saturday.In surnrneL there is a mo―

Station B,just beyond Hmia Gate,servcs

of Plateia lVienizelou,which is open 8 anlto

Phaestos,Agia Galini and Matala.To reach

6 pnl, Monday to Friday and 8 am to

the city centre■ olΥ l StatiOn B walk through the Hania Gate and along Iく alokerinou.For

Theotokopoulou just no

bne post omcc tt EI Greco Park,just no■ h

l.30 pm on Saturday.The OTE, on h of EI Greco

details on bus schedules, see the lrakliO Ge■ ing There&Alway section.

Park,opens 7.30 anlto ll pm daily.

inforrnation ￢ourist Ofrices EOT(● 228225/6081/

Cat(● 222120),at Malikouti 2,charges

8203,ね x226020)is iust no■ h of Plateia Elenherias at XanthoudidOu l.The staff at

also scans, prints, and faxes docunlents. There are a halidOzen cOmputers with fast

the inforrrlation desk are very。 lR:en wOrk_

conncctions.It's open 9 arn to l anl daily.

experience students nronl a local tourisin

Polykentro Cyber Cafe(●

training c。 1lcge.´ rhey

drogeo 4,is a large place,nlore conducive tO lingering with a large bar area and backgam_ ■)on.It costs 500 dr an hourto use the cOrn― puters and it's open 9 am t0 1 am daily.

Emall & internet Access lstos Cyber

hand Out rnaps and

phOtOCOpied liStS Of ferry and buS SChed‐ ules.()pening times are 8 arn to 2 prn Mon― day to Friday.In high seasOn they also open on Saturday and Sunday.´ he tourist pOlice

1300 dr an hour tO use their cOnlputers and

399212),試

An―

I｀

283190),Dikeosynis 10,are open from

(●

Trave: Agencies Prince Travel(1● 28

7 anlto ll pm.

2706),at 25 Avgoustou 30 is an excellent

Foreign Consulates Foreign consulates

sourcc ofinfol■ nation on cheap flights.It's a fliendly ofice that has a luggage stOrage and has tons of usefし l advice abOut lrakliO.

in lrakliO include:

It's open 9 anlto 6prn Monday to Friday.

Gennany (●

226288),Zografou 7

Netheriands (●

346202),Avgoustou 23

(●

224012),Apalcxandrou 16

UK

For the latest ferry schedules and all ad‐

vice on boat transport go to Arabatzoglou

1226697),at 25 Avgoustou 54.It's open 9 anlto 7pm Monday to Friday. (●

BookshoPS The huge Planet lnternational

Bookshop(● 28 1558)on the corner of Money Most ofthe city's banks are On 25 Avgoustou,including the National Bank of (:)reece at No 35.It has a 24‐ hour autonlatic

exchange rnachine,as dOes the Credit Bank

at No 94.American Express(● 24 6202 or 222303)is represented by Adamis Travel Bureau, 25 Avgoustou 23.()pening hours

are 8 am to 2 pnl Monday to Saturday.

Thomas Cook(● 241108/9)is represented by Surnrncriand Travel,Epirnendou 30.

Post 8:(Communications´ 「 he

central post ofllce is on Plateia Daskalogianni.

Iortatson and Kidonias stocks inost of the books recornrncnded in this guide and has a large selection of Lonely IPlanet guides.It's open 8.30am to 2.30prn Monday,ヽ Vednes‐ I‐

day,and Saturday and′ ruesday,8.30anl to 2pm and 5.30 to 9pm´「 hursday,and Friday. Laundry.I｀ here are two self‐ service laun―

drettes:Laundry Washsalon,Handakos 18, and Wash‐ 0‐ Mate,Mirabelou 25,near the Archacological Museurn.IBoth charge 2000 dr for a wash and dry.

the irst street in and you'li sec the post of‐

Lug〔 Fage Storage l｀ he lel■ ‐ luggage ofice Station A charges 300 dr per day and is open 6.30 am to 8 prn daily.C)ther options

■ce on yourieft.C)pening hours are 7.30 ain to 8 prn Monday to Friday;and 7.30 anl to

are Prince驚 鋼 el(● 282706),at 25 Av‐ goustou 30, which also charges 500 dr,

From Plateia Ele■ herias go up(3‐ iannari and inake a le■ l on Zografou.Make a right on

at】 3us

174 irak:io― Things to See

０ コ ︼くだ ︼

Washsalon(see Laundry)which charges

and inlporし な nce only to the National Archae‐

450 dr and me yotth hostel at VyЮ nos 5

ological Museum in Athens.If you are seri‐ olぉ ly interestd in the Minoans you wll want more mmЮ ne visit.Even aね irly supericid perusal ofthe contents requires halfa day. The exhibits,an・ anged in chronological order,include pottery,jewellery,■ gurines,

which charges 500 di

medical services・ The new university Hospital(● 392111)誠 Voutes,5km south of iraklio,is the city's best equipped med‐

ical facility.The Apollonia Hospital(● 22 9713),inside the old wals on Mousourou,

and sarcophagi as well as sorne farnous

is more convenient.

■iada.An

Things to See Archaoo:ogical Museum This ouゝ tand‐ ing museum(● 226092)is second in si22

iescoes,mostly■ om Knossos and Agia testi″ to the remarkable imagin―

ation and advanced skllls(of the Minoans. UnfOrtunately, the eXhibitS are nOt Very well‐ explained.Iftlley were,there would be no need to part with 2200 dr for a copy of

:rak:io―

Things to See 175

lRAKL10 PLACFS TC)STAY

48 Loukoulos

41 Tiake Five

4 8 9 ll 13 14

49 Giovanni Taverna 61 Ta Leontaria 1922

42 Venetian Loggia 43 Buses to Knossos

62 Loukoumades Cafe

44 St Marco Church 45 Sousouro 46 1deon AndЮ n

Hotel Kronos Hotel Rea Vergina Roo「ns Atrion Hotel Lena Youth Hostel

69 Giakoumis Taverna 70 Restaurant lonia 73 8e‖ a Casa

51 EOT 52 Archaeological

1 8 Hotel lrini

Museum

C,THER

20 Hotel Lato 21 Hotel llaira 28 Atlantis Hotel

l Venetian Fo淀 ress 5 Historical Museum

35 Hotel Kastro 36 Hotel Mirabe‖ o 37 Youth Hostel

7,asmin

(Rent Rooms He‖ 50 Astoria Hotel 66 EI Gに co

as)

TO EAT

2 Taverna Kastclla

3 1ppokampos Ouzeri 6 Garden of Deykahola Taverna

10 Bexos

12■ erra

del Fuego

1 5 Vareladika Ouzeri 1 6 Katsinaく uzeri

55 Fougaro

1 7 Prince Travel

56 8uses to Airport

19 Summerland

57 EOS

22 8uses to Hania&Rethymno 23 Busesto Knossos&Airport

58 Aktaplka 59 Morosini Fountain

24 Bus Station A 25 Priv‖ ege Club 26 Yacht Club 27 1stos Cyber Cafe

a)De Fado 63 Tlourist Police

64 SPyros Valergos 65 Four Llons

29W“ h-0-Mtte

67 Chuκ h of Agia[katerini 68 Agios Minos

31 National Bank of Greece 32 Adamis Travel Buにau 34 く )TE

Cathedral 71 Post Offce 72 01ympic Aim′ ays

75 Bembo Fountain

30 Pagopelon

38 Guernica 39 Laundry Washsalon

33 Aithrion

40 Planet lnternational

:〉

Museurn

54 DNA

of Crete

74 01ympic P[ム CES

53 8atle of Crete

47 New China

76 APo‖ onia Hospital 77 Kazant2akiS'■ Omb 78 Kazantzakis Open

BookshoP

the glossy illustrated guide by tlle mu―

Alr Theatre

Exhibits in ROom 4 are■ om the Middle

seurn's director.

Minoan iperiod. Most striking is tlle 20crn

Roorn l is devoted to the Neolithic and Early Minoan periods. Rooin 2 has a col―

black stOne Bul:'s Head,which、

vas a liba‐

tiOn vessel..I｀ he bull has a llne head ofcuris,

vhich sprout horns of gold.Thc eyes

lcction froin thc Middlc Minoan period.

Iヤ olll、

Anlong the most fascinating exhibits are the

of painted crystal are extrernely lifelike. Also in this room are relics ioln a shrine at

tiny,glazed colour reliefs ofMinoan houses ■om Knossos,called the`town mosaic'.

Room 3 covers the salne period with

Knossos,including two ine snake goddess igurines.Snakes symbolised immortality

inds fronl Phaestos,including the famous Phaestos iDisc. The syinbols inscribed on

for theヽ 4inoans.

this 16crn diarnetcr disc have not been de―

urines and scais. Other exhibits include

ciphered.Here also are the famous Kamares pottery vases,nalmed aner the sacred cave as irst dis― of Kamares where the po■ elγ ｀′

vases imponed iom Egypt and some Lin―

covered. Case 40 contains fragments of

scriptions on the tablets displaycd here have becn transiated as household or business ac― countsうronl the palace at Iく nossos.

`eggshell 、 vare', so called because of its fragility. The fOur large vases in case 43 were part ofa royal banquet set.1｀ hey are of

cxceptional quality and are sonle of thc inest exanlplcs of Kanlares pottery.

Room 5 contains pottery, bronze ng―

car A and B tablets.The Mycenaean Linear B script has been deciphered,and the in―

Roon1 6 is devoted to inds ionl Minoan cenleteries. Especially intriguing are tヽ vo snnall clay nlodcls ofgroups ofngures、 vhich

176 irak:io― Thingls to See

were found in a tholostol■ b.One depicts fOtr

Fにsco,the Griffin Fに sco(■ om the ThrOne

male dancers in a circle,theirそ ■ ■ ns arOund each other's shoulders.The dancersinay have

Rooin), thc Do:phin Fresco(■ oin the Queen's Room)and the amazing Bu::‐

been palticipating in a funeral ritual.The other model depicts t、 vo groups Ofthree fig_

uresin a room nanked by織 ′ o columns.Each tatures two large scated igures,who are ttng。 能 red libatiOns by a smaller ng_ urc.Itis not known whcthcr me lage ngures represent gods Or departed mo■ als.On a more g sly level,there is a display Of the bones of a horse,、 vhich had been sacrinced as part ofMinoan worship. ´ rhe indsin Room 7 include the beautiful g‐ oup

bee ipendant found atヽ 4alia. It's a remark‐

ably ine piece of gold jewellery depicting tWO beeS dropping honey into a conlb.AIso

Leaping Fresco,which depicts a seemingly double― JOinted acrobat sornersaulting on the back ofa charging bull.C)ther fl・ escOes here

include the two lovely Frescoes of the Li:ies

■om Amnisos and iagments Of iescOes ■om Agia Triada.There are more iescOes in Roorns 15 and 16.In roorn 16 there is a

large wooden model of Knossos.

The museum is On XanthOudidOu,just nonh of Plateia Eleftherias.Opening tilnes are 8 anl to 7 pnl′ 「 uesday to Sunday,and

12.30 to 7 prn Monday. It closes at 5 prn iOm the end ofOctoberto the stan ofApril. Adrnission is 1500 di

in this roorn are the three celebrated vases

iom Agia Triada.The Harvester Vase,of

Historical Museurn of Crete This irlu―

which only the top part remains,depicts a light‐ hearted scene of young fann wOrkers ´ returning flom olive picking. 「 he Boxer Viase shows Minoans indulging in t、 vo of

seum(● 283219)houses a fascinating

their favourite pastiines―

wrestling and bull

grappling.The Chiettain Cup depicts a mOre ・ cryptic scene: a chief holding a sta賢

and

three men calTying aniinal skins.Room 8 holds the inds 6rom the palace at ZakrOs. ０ コ Ｖ‘ 璧

I〕

)on't rniss the gorgeous li"le crystal vase

which was found in over 300 pieces and was

range of bits and pieces ion、 Crete's inOre recent past.´ rhe ground i。 。r covers the

period,om Byzantine to Turkish rule,dis― playing plans, charts, phOtOgraphs, c er_ amics and maps.On the lst f100r is the Only El Greco painting on display in Crete.C)ther roorns contain llaginents of 13th‐ and 14th―

cenmry iescOes,cOins,jewellery,liturgical ornanlents, anci vestments and rnedieval pottery.

painstakingly put togethcr again by nluseurn

1｀

he 2nd inoor has a reconstructiOn Ofthe

gated libatiOn vessel decOrated with shells

:ibrary of author iNlkos Kazantzakis and diSplays ie■ ers,manuscripts and books.An‐

and other inarine line.

other roonl is devoted to lErnmanual T｀soud‐

stafF.IC)ther exhibits include a beautiful e10n_

eros,who was born in Rethymno and who

Roorn 1 0 covers the pOstpalatial period (1350‐

1100 BC)whcn the Minoan civ

sa―

tion was in decline and being overtaken by the、 vanior‐ like Myceaneans.1ヽ Jevelnlheless,

there are stili sorne ine exhibits,including

a child(headless)on a swing in case 143.

vピ

as Prinlc Ministerin 1941.Sonle dranlatic

Photographs Of a ruined lraklio are dis‐ played in the Batt:e of Crete section.There is an outstanding fo:k:ore co:lection On the

Room 13 is devoted to Minoan sar‐ oophagi.However,the mOst famous and

3rd noor The museum,which isjust back tom the Wcstcrn wateriont,is open 9 am to 5 pm

SpeCtaCular Of thCSC,the SarCOphaguS frO:Fi

Monday to Friday and 9 am to 2 pm Satur‐

Agia Triada,is upstairs in Room 14(the

day in sunllnen ln wintet it opens 9.30 ain

Hall ofFrescoes).This stone cOfin,painted

to 2.30 pnl Monday to Saturday.Adinission is 1000 di

with lnoral and abstract designs and ritual

scenes, is regarded as One Of the supreme exainples of Minoan all.

The most famous ofthe Minoan iescoes are also displayed in Roorn 14. Frescoes nronl Iく

nossos include the Procession

Other Attractions lraklio burst out of its ‐ CIサ Wa‖ S IOng agO but theSe maSSiVeお ■cations,、 ′ ith seven bastions and fOur gates, are still very conspicuous, dwarfing the

lrakiio―

Things to See 177

COnCrCte structures of the 20th century. ｀ ViCnetianS built the defcnces between 1462

The delightful Bembo Fountain, at the southern end of 1866, is shown on local

and 1562.You can lollow the walls arOund

nlaps as thc′ 「 urkish Fountain,butit was ac―

the heart of the city for views of lrakliO's

tually built by the lVienetians in thc 1 6th cen―

neighbourhOOds but it is not particularly

tury lt was constructed nrom a hotchpotch

sccnic.´ he 16th― century IRocca ai Mare,an―

of building nlaterials including an ancient statue.´ he ornate edifice next to the fOun― tain、 vas added by the・ urks,and now func― 「 tions as a snack bar.

I｀

othcr｀ /ienetian fOrtress,stands at the end of

the Old HarbOur's jetty.The Venctian foltress stopped thc′ rurks for 22 1years and

thCn beCanlC a TurkiSh F)rison for(Cretan rebels.The exteriOr is mOst impressive with relieft,ofthe Llon of St Mark.1,he interior

has 26 overly― restOred roorns and good VieWS iOm thetop.The fo■ ss(● 246211) “ to Saturday, is open 8 anlto 6 prn Monday 10 am to 3 pnl Sunday.Entry is 500 di

Several other nOtable vestiges frorn ｀ 4enetian tirnes survive in the city. Most ν

I｀

The former Church of Agia Ekaterini, next to Agios Minos Cathedral,is now a museum(● 288825)housing an impres‐ sive collection of icons. Most notable

are thc six icons painted by Mihail II)anlaskinos, the rnentor of E)onlenikos

Theotokopoulos(El Greco).Itis open 9 am to l:30 pnl Monday to Saturday and alsO from 5 to 8 p■ l on Tuesday,Thursday and

fanlous is Morosini Fountain On Plateia Venizelou,which spu s water iom four

Friday a■ ernoOns.Adnlission is 500 dr.

lions into eight Ornate U‐ shapcd marble trOughS.´ vas 「 he lountain,built in 1628, 、

ner of Doukos Doお r and Hatzidakl,chron‐

cornnllssloned by Francesco Moroslnl

letters,unifOrrns and、 veapons. It is open 9

While heヽvaS governor ofCrete.(E)pposite is the threc‐ aisled 13th― century Basi:ica Of

am to l pnl daily.Entrance is,ce. ｀ いou can pay hOmage tO Cretc's lnost ac―

San Marco.It has been recOnstructed many

Clairned contemporary writer, Nikos

timeS and iS nOヽ V an exhibition gallery.A lit‐

Kazantzakis(1883-1957),by visiting his tomb tt the Ma nenga Bastion(the best― preSerVed baStiOn)in the SOuthern pa■ Of

tle nol■ h of here is the attractively recon―

structed 1 7th― Century Venetian Loggia. It

、 vas a Venetian versiOn Of a gentlernan's club; the nlale aristOcracy canle here to drink and gOssip.

・ he Battle of Crete Museum,on the cor‐ r｀

icles this historic battle througll photographs,

town.´ 「 he epitaph On his grave,`I hOpe for nothing,I fear nOthing,I anl lree',is taken frOrn One Of his wOrks.

Special for kids VVhen the kidS get tired Of building SandCaStleS,Water City`1●

7187376),1 5krn south― east of lrakllo,has 23 water sildes,wave pools and an artificial river ln sorne sildes,kids plunge frorn

the heightS While in OtherS they emerge fron￢

a tube.lt's open 10 am to 7 pm dally frorn April

tO Septenlberi admission is 4000 dr adults,300()dr children 4-12.There's no public trans― port Drivers should take the main rOad east frOrn lraklio and turn sOuth at Hanl Kokini,fol‐

lowing signs to the park iritiki Farnl(● 0897-51 546)is 34 km south― east of lraklio near Potamies.This recreation Of a typical Cretan farm nlay be a little tame fOr adults but klds are sure tO appreciate the car― Iく

riage rides,donkey rides and Playground.There's alsO a sannPling of farm anirnals to helP City kids connect pork with pig.There is also a restaurant serving cretan dishes it's open 9 arn to

7 pm da‖ y frOm March to(Dctoben Admission is 1 500 dn Take the bus frOITl lrakliO tO Dik― tean CaVe,and get Off at Potamies(l hour,70C)dr).

些 些 些 些 些 瞼 立 立 凸 鰺

178 1rakiio― P:aces to Stay

Piaces to Stay

firο

As the isiand's capital and business centre, Iraklio's accornrnodation oppoll:unities are wcighted to、vard the needs ofbusiness trav― ellers.Hotels tend to be bland but they are

χ2イ ∂26, ′ ι ′Lι ″αr燿'22 32∂ θ ,ノ ン

ια力α″α ′θり haS

baSiC SingleS/dOubleS With

shared bathroonls for 6500/9000 dt and doubles with private bathroonl lor ll,000 di g′ ″ The pleasant,そ ′ αRο ο″sr● 2イ 27,2

to lraklio is Amoudara,2km west oftown.

〃ο′ ′ αrsο ″θ〃,iS a pleaSant,CharaCter｀ turn‐ of‐ the‐ century house with a snlall courtyard and spacious high‐ ceilinged

You'll find the top end rcsolts stretching to

r00nls. I)oubles/triples/quads cost 5000/

Arnoudara to the west and I=Iersonissos in

6500/8500 di lBathroorns are on the terrace and hot water is available upon request. 拓ο′ ′′Rι α,r・ 22363砂 at the intersec― tion of Hortatson and Kalirneraki,is clean,

clustered in the centre of to、

vn,convenient

to public transport.1｀ he closest bcach resort

the east.Hotels in town are open all year but

nlost beach resorts are only open frorn ヽ4arch to Novenlben

Places to Stay― Budget Camping The nearest cainpsites are at g Crι ′ α Gouves and Hersonissos.Cα P′″ 97-イ ノイ θα′富イノイθの is “ 16 km east of r奮 ∂ lraklio along the rnain road to Agios Niko‐

1

quiet and friendly. Singles/doubles with 、 vhilc sharcd bathroonl are 5000/6500 dr, doubles/triples with private bathroom are

6500/8000 di

Places to Stay… Mid‐ Range

area butthere is a sand and pebble beach.

F・ 282 2イ θ,ノ bX 285 ∂53, そ ′ル′あ の iS aS C10Se tO the Sea aS yOu Can “ get in lraklio without actually being in the

Cα ″P′ ″g″asο″′ ss“ r● クは 229θ 〃 is 22 knl east of lraklio, 3 km before I―Ier‐

excellent condition with sparkling tile

sonissos. The canlping ground is on the

noors and white walls.All roorns have bal‐

sandy beach and features traditional style

conies, sorne with views of the sea and

buildings.

double― glazed、 vindows to keep out traffic

laos and then 2 knl lent to the beach.The canlping grounds are in a nat, shadeless

rrο ′ ′′κ′ο″οS

０コ 〓くα一

Hosteis lraklio has t、 vo youth hostels.´「 he

″ ο″οs,, おmlerッ ο″″ 力οsrι ′r● 2∂ 62∂ ,り ′ 、 vhich was stripped of its of■ cial status,is vhere a bed in a a clean, well― nュ n placc, 、 single― sex dorm costs 1500 dr and basic doubles/triples cost 4000/5000 dr. Many people prefer the livelier atnlos‐ phere at R`″ ′Rο ο″sI′ 〃α s r● 2∂ ∂ ∂5ノ

,

sea. The large, twin‐ bedded roorns are in

nOise fiorn the road below.Singles/doubles are 9000/12,000 dr in high season with an extra 1200 dr for breakfast.

И″わ″″♭″′r● 229225,.ヵ χ223292, C力 Ю″αた′,iS

a buSineSS‐ like

eStabliSh‐

rnent with few concessions to frivolity. The large,well‐ lurnished rooms have ai■ ′ con on denland, 「 Vs with international

stations and rnodern bathroonls but the

〃 ″aα たos 2り ,a hostel which has a roof

most attractive feature of the hotel is the

garden and a ba■ Rates are 1800 dr for a

dorrn bed and 5200/6700/8200 dr for

enclosed garden― terrace. Singles/doubles are 18,500/21,600 dr.Prices include buffet

doubles/triples/quads.

breakfast.

Domatia There are tw domatia in lraklio

Iα ο ″′′ιο

and not enough cheap hotels to cope with

with 59 1arge,airy rooms with TV(local

the number of budget travellers、 vho arrive in high scason.()ne ofthe nicestlow― priced

StatiOnS Only),radiO,telephOne and ai■

iα

plaCeS iS the Spi的 ρ

ffο ′ ι′I′ ′ ″′rlヨ ,22656ノ ,ブbχ

〃ο″′ ″′ ′ αb′ ′ ′ ο

2∂ 5θ 52,動 aο ′ οたο ο″2の On a quiet ″ο″′

´

street in the centre oftown 「 he imrnaculate rooms cost 6500/8500 dr with shared bath―

roonl, and 8000/10,000 dr with Private bathroom.Try to get a room with a balcony.

226イ θ7,

Sり iS a mOdern eStabliShment COn.

Most of the Mediterranean― style roorns have balconies enlivened by plants and nowers. Prices are 13,500/18,000 dr lor singies/doubles including breakfast. It's vn and also has parking facilities. There's a taverna downstairs、vith long opening hours.

well-located in the centre of to、

:rak!iO― P:aCeS to Stay 179

″0″ ′καS′ ′ ο r● 2∂ イ ′∂5/2∂ 5θ 2α οたο ′ οン2夕 haS COm― 力 χ22′ の 2,動 ′ Pο ″ `ο fon‐ able arnenities including a great r。 。貴。p ´ terrace 、 vith chairs fOr sunbathing. 「 he roonls are large, cOntain telephOnes and have air‐

cOn. Sorne have balconies with 「 Vs.Prices

comer views ofthe sea and/Or・

are 9000/12,000 dr lor a single/double in‐ cluding breakfast.

The beSt ttture Of Zο ′ ′I′ α″″r● 227 ′

ノθθο/227′ 25,_た 7χ

2イ 236乙

the r。 。 nop

И′ ノ αグ″お 〃 is

terrace with a panoranlic view ´ of the pOrts and fortress. he pleasant I｀

stucco and 、 vood roOrns have telephOnes

and showers;sOme have TVs and Othcrs have small balconies with sea views. SingleS/dOubleS are 10,000/14,000 dr. lear Morosini Fountain, 」 E′ (3″ `cο 2′ 〃∂ 2夕 has r● 2∂ ′θ7′ ,′2χ 2∂ ′θ72/′ ∂ a no― nonsense loOk. The large, bland lobby 1ヽ

transport and equipped with a roOf10p swimming p001.The luxurious roOms are outitted with air_cOn on denland, hair dryerS,COSmetiC SetS,TVS(internatiOnal ChannelS)and telephOne.Singles/doubles cost 28,500/36,000 dr and include buffiet breakfast. И″α″′ is lο ″′r●

22″ 65,な ′ αsの

229ノ θ3/イ θ2,,ヵ χ

is iOcated On a quiet street

´ near the harbOur. 「 his gleaming, mOderll hotel has an ind00r sゝ ′ inlming pool,health ´ club, sauna and solariunl. he rOOrns are 「 ′ spaciOus and 、 、 ell― appointed with air‐ cOn On demand,TV(no English-language sta‐ tiOnS), telephOne, bathtubs, and double‐ glazed windo、 vs tO ensure quict.Priccs Of 24,000/34,000 dr fOr a single/double in― clude buFfet breakfast. J【 ο ″′ι″わ r● 22∂ ノ θ3,′ α2イ θ35α ι ″α〃 ′ α′ ο@力 ′た ′ 力″α tt E′ f″ ′″あ ″ ′〃 was 力′

seerns designed tO discOurage lingering and

COnlpletely renovated in 1995, this sicek

no one would accuse the hote1 0f over‐

hote1 0verlooking the 10rtress offiers excel‐

decorating the roorns.´ he locatiOn is g00d,

lent value.´

the roOrns are in deccnt shape and sorne have'I｀ Vs and air‐ con. Singles/dOubles are

COn on demand,TVs with internatiOnal

17,400 dr inCiuding breakfast_Air― con is an extra 2500 dr. Although sOrnewhat char,Tl― impaircd,the

with views Of the sea. There's alsO a

I「

large,bland οク″ ′ Cr●

2∂

∂∂6′ ,ノ χ b‐

2225ノ 2,`″ α ″gα ′ α ι rg4 P′ α ′ θ ′ α ツル@ο た″

κο ″ ′ α ″ ο〃 OftrS

a Sunny roof garden in a

「 he

cOrnf01liable roorns have air―

stations, telephone, radiO and balconies COnfcrencc roonl and parking facilities. SingleS/doubles cost 22,700/28,500 dr in‐ cluding buffet breakfast.

Places to Eat

central locatiOn.

´ 「 he large rooms are in good cOndition and equipped with tele‐

lraklio has restaurants tO suit all tastes and

pockets frolll excellent ish tavernas tO ex‐

phOnes.Prices are 21,000/18,000 dr and in_

otic internatiOnal cuisine.1｀ he business‐ like

clude breakfast.

PlaCeS tO Stay― ・ Tlop End Although not in the tOwn centre Cα ′ αχ ノ ″ο″′ρ 23∂ ∂′2,力 χ 2″ 2〃 ,′ ″α″ α ′ ″α ′ 訥 6〃 o娩 rs ′′ つ′ @ο ′ 多 D`“ ο `″ `∴

a lot ofamenities.There's aswimming pO。

1

large enOugh tO swim laps,a sauna and veiγ I｀

hair dryers, safes and balcOnies. Singles/ doubles are 22,000/30,()00 di /S′ ο ′ ′ α″ο ′ θ ′ r● 3イ Jθ ∂ αノ2“

229θ 7∂ α〃α οガα@″ 力″ ′ ′ ,″ ′ ′ P″ た″E′ `た ″θ ″ S′ 〃 iS the buSinessperson's hotel of `′ “ 'α choice. It's in the thick of the action on S′

Plateia Elenherias,cOnvenient tO all public

like the reSt ofthe isiand.Note that the rna‐ jOriり 。f reStaurantS are Closed on Sunday. TYlou may be relegated tO self‐ catering,100k‐

ing for a hOtel restaurant Or heading to one Ofthe faSt-100d Outlets around the Morosini

Fountain.

comlo■ able rOOms with air― con On demand, ´ Vs、 ′ ith internatiOnal stations,telephones,

`“

tenlperanlent Of the city alsO allows for a 、′ ider choice Of fOrmal dining optiOns,un‐

,

Places to Eat― Budget ιο″″ο″″α″ ル (D蔵 ′οSッ ″Sの has the `S Cα bestあ た 。″″α aι s(hOney‐ dipped■ itters)in “ lraklio.WOrkers,shopkeepers and business peOple drift in an Out all day for their iouk―

ournades 1lx but,on a scale Of One to ten, the alnbience is ininus six.It's Open S anlto nlidnight daily.

18o :rak:io― Piaces to Eat

´ rhe deliciOus cheese― fllled bougatsa ,α ,on 1922,has a loyal served at 7b L′ ο″ ′ `α lollowing anlong lraklio's older set who linger for hours over bougatsa,coffee and water,、 vatching the crowds mill around the

forthe larnb and pork roasted in a brick oven or the excellent ste、 ved goat. Portions are

hea■ and tlle atnlosphere is convivial.It's open 7pnl to lanl daily・ uesday to Sunday. )′

I｀

3″ αGα Sα

Morosini FOuntain. It's open 7aFn tO inid‐

ning turn―

night daily.

terracc‐

Places to Eat― MId¨ Range Mexican food is trendy right now in Crete ον οたο making π′′rα ″ F“ Fル ο′ ′ο′′ `gο crowd.Ifyou 2の popular with`′a hip,young don't have your healll set on authenticity, yOu'1l be anlused by the Cretan versions of

Mexican standards. It'S Open 8pm to nlid‐ night Monday to Saturday. 」 rsο ′ αたノ〃 iS aS f′pο た α″″οs O″ zι ″ (π イ

μοダ ■/b′ ノの iS Set in a Stun‐

of― the‐ century

villa with a small

・ garden on the strect. 「 he stylish

rOOIns are air‐ conditioned in the surnrner al‐

lowing you to savour a wide assortment of richly flavoured ([〕 reck and italian dishes without working up a siweat.It's open noon tO Spnl and 8pnl to lanl Monday to Satur‐ rc‐ day.如 ιs`Gfα ″″iC力 ′οα力,ノ リ was ´ cently taken over by country folk. 「 his simple restaurant offers Cretan special― 。ccasiOn cooking. Lanlb and goat are stewed for hours or roasted in a brick ovcn

good“ tavemastyle eating gets_The interior

just the way Cretans would cook them.It'S

is attractively decorated with cooking pots but nlost people preferto squceze onto one of

Open llanl to 2arn daily.

the sidewalk tables. Whethcr you opt lor

ing tO thc nlarket on 1866 and C'α ″ο″″Is 7bッ ι ′ ″α(71ヵ ′。aosα ″ 5_O is one ofthe best.

vegetそ ■ ,ian rnezedes or baked Squid, you'll

ind the f00d l[esh and savoury.As proof of its quality,the tavema is always packed. οた― α 物ツι ′ ″α α′ ′ ο ′ ″″ 9′ D″ ■α′ 6と ′

Theodosaki is lined、 vith tavernas cater‐

There's a full menu of C)retan specialties and turnover is heavy which means thatthe dishes are lreshly cooked.It's opcn noon to

put diners in a cheery mood intensilled by

3prn and 7 to 10prn Monday to Saturday. α,at the intersection of 」 R′ s″α″rα ″′Iο ″′ Evans and(:liannari, is the place for good

delicious lood. After thc tourists lcave at

Cretan home cooking.Choose your meal

arOund llpnl,the locals pile in,the owner

from the pots and pans of food on display,

takes out his accordion and the festivitleS

sit down and prepare tO eniOy a SCrumptiOuS nncal.It's open 7pnl to nlidnight Monday to Saturday.

′ ″ο″ の With itS WiCker ChairS,red‐ `′ “ checked tablecloths and plastic grapevines ０ コ 〓くα］

cOrnlnence.It's open 8pm to 4anl Monday to Saturday.

ヵ ″′ α″ルαO“

α″ο″ノ〃 ′′ρゐ″」Иgα ″

.Tlop End

is cheerful place“ that has recently been

Places to Eat―

takcn Over by a(〕 reek― American couplc who have spruced‐ up the interior while

When you're ready for a nlorc lornlal din― 」 を ′′ 0′ ,,on thc cor‐ ing experience head to`4′ ′

maintaining the ouzeri's tradition ofserving

ner of Almyrou and Arholeondos, an

simple,wel卜 prepared Cretan dishes.Try

upscale restaurantthat serves a full menu of

the exccllent sea― urchin salad. It's open

、 vell_prepared Greek specialties. :Linen

noon to 2.30prn and 7pm to midnight Mon―

tablecloths and a grand piano set a rornan‐ tic tone for a nleal on the plant― filled ter―

day to Saturday.

″ わ″ ι′ ″α XbS″ 〃α (Sο ′力οた′ ■ツ `S″ 〃 haS g00dお Od but a be■ er Se ng・'Z′ThC taverna is right on the water offering a spec―

tacular view oftheヽ4enetian fortress.Come at the end of the day and enjoy the sunset ブ ιs.It's open 9.30arn Over an OuzO and″ ,az′ ι

racc. It's open 7.30prn to lanl Monday to saturday.I〕 ookings arc advisable on week‐ ends,especially for later in the evening. 6″ ο ッα″″′7bッ

″αρ(ο ′α′′の

is a splen‐

ith `′ two floors of large, airy did place 、′ rOorns and,in surnrner,outdoor eating on a

to 12.30am daily iom Marchto November ′ ′′ καなレαο″z″ ′rMα ガ″ο の is an old

quiet pedestrian street.Thc food is a win―

neittbOurhOodね vourite.Most people come

and ltalian specialties, prepared with care

ningヽ 4editerranean cOnlbination of(3reek

:rak:io― Entertainment 1 81

and iFnagination.It's open n00n t0 2.30prn and 7.30pnl to rllidnight Monday tO Satur‐

day. 13ookings arc advisablc on wcckend evenings. こο″ルο″′ οs rκο″ αノ み Offers luscious

Mediterranean specialties served on ine

rosini Fountain. ・ he pedestrian area of Iく orai and Perdikari is lined with stylish I｀

kafeneia that attract a befOre‐ disco crowd eager to see and be scen.・ he old buildings 1｀

a10ng Handakos street cOntain relaxed bar/cafes with cOsy interiors and enclosed

China and acconlpanied by soft classical

patios nlore suitable for cOnversation than

nlusic.YOu can either chOOse the elegantin― terior or dine On the outdOOrterrace under a lernon trec. All the vegetables are organ‐ ically grown and vegetarians are、 vell cared

people_watching. Eο ″′二′ ο″s rP′ α′ ″α 々″:zθ ′ ο〃 has a

fOr.It'S open noon to 3prn and 7pnlto mid_ night Monday tO Saturday.

rCStaurant downstairs and a rooftop bar that

is a great pcrch to 、 vatch thc goings On around the Morosini :Fountain, directly belo、 v.A

subdued crOwd chats in cOrnfOrt―

No city can call itselftruly cOsn10politan Without a Chinese restaurant and lrakliO is

able chairs arOund a replica Of the farnous Four Lions Fountain.It's open noon tO rnid‐

nO eXCeptiOn―N′ ″ Cカ ゴ ″α

night daily.

lο

″ α′〃 haS an

extensive rnenu of competent Chinese `κ

dishes slightly altered to lplease local palates. ・ here is a plcasant cOurtyard. It's 「

Open noon to 3pnl and 7prn tO inidnight Monday tO Saturday.

lα

barsin town early in thc evening when it OfL

fers ringside seats to the evening prome‐ nade around Morosini Fountain. It's also very gay‐ lriendly. It's Open noon to nlid―

Ente,tainment

´ 「 he best time tO engage in cultural pursuits iS during the lraklio Sunliner Arts Festival

which presents internatiOnal guest orches_ tras and dance trOupes as well as local tal_

ent. Concerts and stage productiOns are offered spOradically the rest Ofthe year;the tourist ofice Of lraklio will have the latest schedules. 1｀

Ahhough busy all day,D′ Eα 0ィ κ ″_ `′ ′ α″ο″ο′〃 iS One Ofthe most tthionable

he main venue for lrakliO's cultural Xiα zα ″々α ルお 0′ ι″И″ ′―

scene isハ ワ ″οs

=″

α′ ″ `at Jesus Bastions.This iminense Open air theatre is the nlain site lor lrakliO's Surn‐

mer Arts Festival when musicians,actOrs and dancers perfornl under the stars.´ here are special cvents the rest Of the year and, I｀

when not being used by live pcrfornlers in the sunlmer,it's used as an Open‐ air cinerna.

The box ofice r● 2イ 297み is open 9am to 2.30pm and 6.30 to 9.30prn dally. Iraklio has about half a dOzen cinemas but the n10St Centrally located is theノ 4s′ο″,α CI″ ′ ″′ αon Plateia [;lenherias. It screens run n10vies in their Original language Which is usua‖ y English. irst―

Cafes&Bars The bars and cafes around Plateia Venizelou are as hyped‐ up as the nOn‐ StOp CrOヽ VdS rnilling around the Mo‐

night daily.

C″ ι ′ ″たα (И ′οたο″ ο″ο″κガ″s″ bOaStS traditiollal decOr and contenlpOrary rock wllich inix weli to create One Of lraklio's hippest bar_cafes.The telTace‐ gardcn ofthis ranlblingl old building is a delight in surn‐

nler and in、 ′ inter yOu can warl■ l up nexttO the 16rcplace. It's Open 10 am to nlidnight dally. 7bル ιfl′ ツ ′

々ο′ ιο″′ οS 〃 iS an Old

faVOurite on the`7″ edge of El Greco Park that

doesn't get gOing until after sundown when the outside tables ■1l up 、 vith a diverse cro、 vd

ofregulars.It's a gay-lriendly place,

the nlusic and ainbience are 10w_key and it's open daily 10 am tO midnight. Jα S″ ′ ″ `〃α′グαたοSイ ″ iS a■ iendly bar/cafe with a back terrace that specialises in herbal tea but also serves alcOholic bev_ erages.・ The nightly I)Js play rock and world music as、 vell as technO. It's Open noon to rnidnight daily.

Иカノ α ″″αμ)ο グαあ″の

iS a large airy up‐

SCale plaCe next to the Morosini Fountain that bustles day and night.It has a great bal‐

cony and is a g00d place tO cOrne early in the evening fOr people― 、atching. ・he I)J ∼ plays jazz,rock and wOrld music.Irs open I｀

10am t0 1anl daily.

182 :rakiio― ShOpping

bρ ″たοS β ′― `α ″ ′ ,a danCing Club that Can eaSly h。 ld 力 υ g′ α ″ ′ ′ refurbished Pr′ ツ′

′fε ′Fα Crο リリ,On Plateia Pαgοp`わ ″ Agios Titou,is `=力 a fOriner iCe Factory and the n10st original bar/restaurant on the isiand. ´ 「 here's almost too llluch to look at in this whiinsical place but don't rniss the surreal

1000 people.Like inany of Crete's dancing clubs, there's internatiOnal muSiC (rOCk, technO etc)unt‖

I｀

cOmes to spin jazz, rock and techno. It's

Open■ om 8ain to rnid―

chicest crowd.

night daily.

Shopping

C)n trendy:Korai with its rows of post‐

modem kaineia,I′ ω ″И″″ο″ (Pα ′蔵α″′ 〃,iS a thrOWbaCk tO the paSt・

The StOne in‐

terior with its shiny wood bar creates a rc― laxed,inviting place.It's open 10anito larn daily. οg`ο 9haS a quieter am― ο(7″ グ´ Sο ″Sο ″″

lraklio is where the nloney is so it's a good place to pick up the latest Cretan fashions, rcplace a suitcasc or shop lor luxury goods. Dedalou is a pedestrian shopping strectlined with sorne of the classier tourist shops but the market street, 1866, is a lot more fun.

This narow streetiS alWayS paCked(eXCept on Saturday and Sunday When it iS C10Sed) and stalis spill over with sponges, herbs, ・ shilts, nuts,

bience than other places in the neighbour―

hood. Sit outside and

r

bρ

′ わ sβ 力″ `α “ “ srnartly dressed assortrrlent ofyoung iocals 'that attraCtS a ´ “ and visitors. 「 he clubs vie to attract the α

Arm AgadOn peppers.AtarOund 10pm a DJ gay_■ iendly,and

about2am whenthe Greck

rnusic takcs over. Next door is the lac″

he restaurant serves dishes with nanles likc`Roll Withヽ 4c,Baby'pasta and tOilets.「

、 vatch the scene

arOund Iく orai or retreat to the artsy interior

lruits, vegetables, utensils,

where a pianist entertains most evcnings. It's open 6pm to lam daily.R′ b`お ,at the

11‐

intcrsection ofKoral and IPcrdikari,was one

rthe oト hOney,shOes,帥 djewene叫 Lookお ´ nate Cretan wedding loaves. 「 hese round

ofthe piOneers in the neighbourhood and is the mOst ObviOus `designer' ba■ Marble‐

rneant to be caten but they do rnake attract―

loaves decorated with nower motit are not

tOpped tables and hanging lanlps with

ive kitchen decOrations.For gold and silver

Japanese patterns create a decor that blendS badly with the relentlesS techno pounding in

iewellery,head to Kalokerinou or the busily

cOnllnercia1 25 Avgoustou. Kalokerinou is also a good street to buy embroidery, al‐ thOugh yOu'1l get better deals in Kritsa. There are nO depaninent storcs in lraklio.

the background. Discos lraklio has the smartest and most

For leathcr goodS try TSihlakiS at No 96 on 1821,which offiers a wide selection ofhand‐

sophisticated discos on the isiand..The fol‐

lowing venues open around lTlidnight,close near dawn and devote the intervening hours to keeping a young cro、 vd of clubbers in ´ perpetuai nlotion. 「 he cover charge runs

bags and ladies shoes, sorne of which are handmade by local artisans.Spyros Valergos is a goOd stOp On colourful 1866 street for and icons.

cer:■ 1lics,ciothing,statues

frorn 1500 dr to 2000 dr and includes a drink.

Getting There&Away

ヽ′ ou may not want to buy real estate on

techno and (1)reek.()ne or rnore of these

Air― internatiOna:Air Greecc has three nights a weck to stuttgart and four nights al″ eek to(Cologne in the sulllmer.([〕 ronus Airlines has ive nights a week to London

venues is likely to be ciosedヽ Veeknights in

and four nights a week tO Paris in the

lkarou Avenue but this action‐ packed street seives up the wildest nightlife in town.The

nlusic is a contenlporary nllx of rock,

the summer asthe club scene movesto Am‐ ′ ′ ′ α lT10udara.There'sI)プ Vi4 at No ll;Plο ′ α″,■ ο at No ″ ′ ′ ′ ′ ο,andル タ″ι′ Fο gα ″ ο,K″ α′ “ S′ ′ ο(】 ′うat No 24.Wear black. 9;and “ There's also nightlife action near the har― bour.lraklio's sman set packs the recently ,

summer.Their Of■ ce(● 343366)is at 1821 10.KLM‐ associate´ ransavia nies di‐ rect between Amsterdam and lraklio on ・ Monday and Friday. rransavia is repre‐ sented by sbOkOs Tours(憫 , 22 9712), I｀

E)inlokratias 5 1.

irak:io―

lraklio has lots Of charter nights fiorn all

Getting Around 183

´

「 here are 10ng_distance taxis 210102)iom Plateia Ele■ herias,Oppo‐

1laxi

over EurOpe.PrinCe Travel(● 282706),25 AvgoustOu 30,advertises cheap last_nlinute

site the Astoria HOtel and Bus Station B,to

tickets On thesc flights. Sanlple fares in―

all parts Of Crete. Sanlple fares include

(●

clude London fOr 28,000 dr and Munich 10r

Agios Nikolaos(9700 dr); Rethymno

41,000 dr.

(12,000 dr);and Hania(20,000 dr).

Air… domestic()lylllpic has at least six

Feriγ Minoan Lines and,へ NIEK both opcr_ ate ferries every evening each way between lrakliO and PiraeuS(10 hOurS).´ hey depait 「 ・Orn bOth PiraeuS and lraklio between 7.45

nights a day to Athens(21,900 dr),om iraklio's Nikos Kazantzakis airport;three a

・ hessaloniki(29,900 dr); fOur a Week tO 「

week to Rhodes(21,900 dr)andtwO a week

to Santorini(15,400 dr).The Olympic Air‐

Ways oficc(● 229191)is at Plateia Ele■ ― hcrlas 42.

Air(Grcece has 10ur nights a day to Athens(20,400 dr),twO daily tO Thessa‐

loniki(29,400 dr),and thrce weekly to Rhodes in the sumlner(23,400 dr).Thcir ofnce(● 33 0729 or33 0739)is at Ethnikis AntistaseOs 67(offthe map).

f｀

and 8 pnl.Fares are 7000 dr deck class and ・ he Minoan Lines' 14,100 dr fOr Cabins. 「 boats, the F/BI′ Vノ たοs」 ζ [α zα ″ ′ zα た プ s and the F/Bκ ″οssο s,are more l■ Odern and mOre

COmfOrtable than their ANEK rivals. ANEK,though,is a be■

er bet fOr deck_class

travellcrs. It has dornl beds with plastic_

COVered mattresscs, whilc Minoan Lines has only seats. GA Ferries hasthree boats a week to San―

Aegean Airlines has three daily flights tO

tOrini(four hours, 3700 dr),cOntinuing tO

Athens(18,500 dr)and onc daily night to

Paos(8%hours,5200 dr)and Piraeus and

Thcssaloniki(29,700 dr).Their Ofice is at the airpo■ (●

330475).

stopping at Naxos.GA also has three ferries

a week to Rhodes(1l hours,6400 dr)via

Bus 「´here are buses every half_hour

Karpathos(3800 dr). ヽ4inoan Lines runs three bOatS a Wcek to Thessaloniki(12,100

the Rethynlno/1‐ lania bus station oppOsite

the SpOradeS.´ he traヽ ′ el agencies on 25 Av‐ gOustOu are the place to get infOrnlation and

Bus Station A.Following is a list Of othcr deStinatiOnS■Om Bus Station A:

tacted on●

destination

duration

Getting Around

Agia Pelagia

45 mins

(hOurly in winter)to Rethymno(1%hours, 1550 dr)and Hania(3 hours,2900 dr)iom

fare

Agios NlkOlaOS llろ hours

Arhanes 30 mins 卜 lerSOniSOS/ 1 hour Malia ierapetra

Lassithi

2 hours

plateau Milatos

1,ち

Sitia

3ツ b

5 da‖

y

1400 dr half‐ hOurly

340 dr 750 dr

2シ ちhours

I｀

frequency

650 dr

dr)Via SantOrini,Paros,Volos,Tinos and

1 5 daily half‐ hourly

bu)′

tickets.Iraklio'sI)Ort police can be cOn―

Toノ FrOm

:244912.

The Airport Bus No l gocs

tO/frOm the airport eve。 ′15 minutes be― tween 6 am and l am for 170 dr. It leaves the City'Om Outside the Astoria HOte1 0n Plateia Eleftherias.

21()O dr 1 40C)dr

hours

7 dally 2 dally

Bus Local bus No 2 goesto Knossos every 10 minuteS■ om Bus Station A(20 minutes, 240 dr).It also stops on 25 AvgoustOu and 1821.

lo00 dr

hours 2850 dr

Car& MOtorcycle Most of lraklio's car 3uses leave Bus Station B fori

and mOtOrCyCle‐ hirC outicts are on 25

Agia Calini

2レ 毎hours

1500 dr

7 dally

,ヽ

AnOgia Matala PhaeStos

l hour 750 dr 2 hours 1500 dr 2 hours 1250 dr

6 daily

10Cal COmpanies like Sun Rise(●

9 daily

at 25 2へ

8 daily

(●

vgoustou. Yiou'll get the best deal frorn

221609)

vgoustou 46,Loggeta Cars&:Bikes

289462)at Plateia Kallergon 6,nextto El

184 Knossos

Greco Park,MOtOr Club(奮 222408),at Ag‐ glOn Square 18 or Ritz Rent‐

A‐ Car

at the

′ he ruins of Knossosヽ vere uncovered in I｀

19oo by the British archacologist Sir Arthur

Hotel Rea(scc PIaces to Stay),which has

Evans.Iieinrich Schliemann,the lcgendary

discounts for hotel guests.The airport has a ftlll range of car‐ rental cornpanies including

discoverer ofancient・ I'roy,had had his eye on

Hertz,EurOd。 1lar and Europcar.Sun Rise

an ancient city was buried there,but had been

the spot(alow,nat_tOpped inound),believing

also has a range ofscooterS and rnotorcycles.

unable to strike a deal with the local

Bicycle Mountain bicycles are able to

jOumalist mu∝um

be hired from Porto Club・ Travel Services

an interest in ancient scripts、

(●

285264)Avgoustou 20.

landOWneL Arthur Evans was a well‐ travened curator and ClaSSiCiSt with

vhen he caine across some ancient stoneS engraved with what appeared to be llieroglyphic、 vriting.

KNOSSOS Kvω oo6S

Lcarning thatthe stones came iom Crete,

KnOssOs(k‐ nos― os),5km iom lraklio, was the capital of MinOan Crete.Now―

Evans set sail in 1894.Still thinking that the lov7, ■at― topped inound that interested

adays it's the island's maJOr tourist attrac‐

Schliemann might contain the key to his hi‐

tion.「 he road leading up to the famous site is an uninspiring gauntlet of souvenir

erOglyphics,Evans acquired a share of the site which, signincantly enOugh, gave hirn

´

shops and iuitjuice stands but the palace

exclusive rights to the eXCavation. He re‐

is nlagnincent.′ hanks to a beautiful site

pine trees it is Crete's nlost evocative

turned five ycars iater and began digging with a group ofCretan WOrkmen. The flat‐ tOpped mound Was called

location.

Kephala and the vanished palace that it

I「

surrounded by green hills and shaded by

PALACE OF KNOSSOS 一 一

０ コ Ｘく〓一

l Lustal Basin

7 Crand Staiに ase 8 Ha‖ of the Double Axes

“ 赫

機”

LLニ

い“

○○ ○

9 oueen's MegaЮ

10W“ er Closet

11 △

◇ -

n

KnOSSOS― History 185

contained einerged quickly.´ 「 he irst trea_ sure to be unearthed was a(lesc0 0f a lVIi― noan nlan follo、 ved by the discOvery ofthe

Throne Room.The archaoological world 、 vas stunned.Until he began his excavations no one had suspected that a civilisatiOn Of this maturity and sophistication had existed in iEurope at the tinle ofthe great PharaOhs

it's besttO getthere as sOOn as thc site opens

and visit thc Throne Rooin irst before thc ´ tour buses arrive 「 he cafe at the site is ex― pensive_yOu'd do better to bring a picnic along.The site(● 231940)is Open 8 am to 7 prn every day between April and C)ctObcr. In Winterthe site closes at 5 pm.Adinission

is 1500 di

of Egypt.Sornc cven speculated that it was thc site of the lost city ofAtlantis to which Piato referrcd nlany centuries later. Evans was so enthralled by his discOvcry

History

・ 「 he nrst palace at Knossos was built around

1900 BC but most of what you see dates

that he spcnt 35 years and￡ 250,000 0f his oヽ vn nlone)′ excavating and reconstructing sections ofthe palace.SOrne archacologists have disparaged iEvans'reconstruction,be―

erthe 01d Palace was de‐ stroyed 'om 1700by BC an a■ earthquake. It was then re‐ built tO a grander and morc sOphisticatcd

lieving he sacrinced accuracy to his overly vivid iinaginatiOn.lJnlike other archaeo10_

again sometime betwcen 1500 and 1450 BC

design.`「 he palace、 vas partially destroyed

construction helps thc visitor tO visualise What the palace inlight have looked like at the peak ofits glory.Evans lnaintained that ′ he、 、 as obliged tO rebuild colunlns and sup―

and inhabited for another 50 years before it 、 vas devastated Once and fOr all by ire. The New Palace、 vas not erected heltcト skelter but carefully designed tO rneet the needs of a conlplex society.Therc、 vere dO― mestic quarters 10r the king or queen,resi―

ports in reinforccd concrete Or the palace

denccs for Of6cials and priests, honles of

ould have collapscd,but rnany archaeolo―

colmrnon lolk and burial grounds.IPublic re― ception roorns, shrincs, 、 vorkshOps, treas_

gical sites in Crete ho、 vcver,substantial re―

v′

gists feel that the integrity Ofthe site、 vas ir― retrievably danlaged. Most non― specialists

uries and stOrerOOms wcre built around a

nlaintain that Sir Arthur did a goOd」 Ob and

paved cOurtyard in a design so intricate that

that Knossos is a knOckout.WithOut these reconstructions it v′ ould be impOssible to

it nlay have been behind the legend Ofthe

visualise what a Minoan palace looked like.

the Minotaur boxed text.)

You will need tO spend about four hOurs at Knossos to explore it thOroughly.To beat the cro、

vds and avoid thc Oppressive heat,

Labyrinth and the MinotauL(See Myth of Until recently it was pOssible tO enter the

rOyal apartments,but in carly 1997 it was decided tO cOrdOn this area off befOre it

The palaCe at iく nOSSOS iS regarded aS a nlasterpiece of Minoan civilisation.

186 Knossos― History

The Myth of the AAinotaur King Minos of(:rete invoked the wrath of Poseidon when he falled tO Sacrifice a magnifiCent white bull sent to hinl for that purpose. Poseidon's revenge was to cause Pasiphae. lく ing Minos'wife,to fallin love with the anirnal ― ln Order tOl attract the bull, Pasiphae asked E)aedalus,chief architect at lく nossos and a‖

round handynnan,to make her a hollow,wooden cow structure.VVhen she concealed herself inside,the buli found her irresistible.The outcOrne Of their bizarre assOciation was the Mino― half― man and half‐ bull.

′ as taur:a hideous monster who、 へ

King Minos asked l)aedaluS tO build a labyrinth in WhiCh tO COnfine the Minotaur and de‐ manded that Athens Pay an annualtribute of seven youths and seven maldens to satis,the rnonster's huge appetite. eventua‖ y found out that[)aedalus had been instrunlental in bringing about the between his wife and the bull, and threw the architect and his son lcarus into the labyrinth.E)aedalus made wlngs fronl feathers stuCk together with wax and,wearing these, father and sOn made their getaway ,As everyone knows,lcarus flew too close to the sun,the Aハ inos

uni〈 )n

wax on his vvings melted,and he plummeted into the sea off the iSland oflkaria

Athenians, rneanWhile,VVere enraged by the tribute denlanded by Minos.The Athenian herO,Theseus,vovved to killthe Minotaur and sailed off to Crete posing aS One Of the sacri― flcial y()uths. C)n arrival, he fell in l()Ve

with Ariadne, the daughter of King inos,and she promised to help him if he would take her away with him atter― wards.She provided him with the ba‖

Aハ

of twine that he unwound on his way intO the labyrinth and used to retrace his steps after slaying the monsten Theseus fled Crete v

th

Ariadne.The two married,but Theseus abandoned Ariadne on the island of Naxos on his way back to Athens. c)n his return to Athens,Theseus forgot to unfuri the lwhite sall that he had promised to disPlay to annOunce that he was still alive. This prornpted his dis―

egeus,to huri traught father,メ ヽ himself to his death from the Acropolis. This, incidenta‖ y, is

how the Aegean sea gotits narne.

Theseus killing the Minotaur

凸 凸 凸 凸

些 些 些 些

Knossos― ExPloring the Site 187

disappeared altOgether under the cOntinual pounding of feet. :Extcnsive rcpairs are under、 vay but it is unlikely to be open to the public again.

ExPloring the Site Numerous rooins, cOrridors, dogleg pas‐ sages,staircases, n00ks and crannies,pro― hibit a detailed 、 valk description of the palace. 1-lowever, Knossos is nOt a site Wherc you'1l be perplexcd by heaps Ofrub‐ ble,trying tO fathorn whether yOu're look―

ing at the Throne Room or a workshOp.

・

I｀

hanks to Evans'reconstruction,thc most

ances,orthe place where people gathered tO

い7elcomc impO■ ant visitors ariving by the Royal Road. ・ he Royal Road leads off tO the ヽ vest. ´「 he road,Europe's irst(1く nossOs has IOts 「 OfirStS),WaS flanked by WOrkShOpS and the ´ houSes of ordinary people. 「 he Lustrai Basin is also in this area.Evans speculated

that this wasヽ vhere theヽ 4inoans perfornled

a ritual cleansing with water before reli_ glous cerell10nles.

Entering the Centra: Court from the north,youヽ ′ ill pass the relief Bu:: Fresco ヽ VhiCh dcpicts a charging bull.Rclief fres‐

significant parts Of the colmplex are in―

coes were made by moulding wet plaster,

Stantly reCOgniSable(ifnOt inStantly fOund).

and then painting it、 vhile still wet.

On your wandcrs you will cOme across many of Evans'recOnstructcd coluinns.

section of the palace are thc lgiant pithOl.

Most arc paintcd deep brO、 trimnled blaCk Capitals.´

vn‐ red

with gold‐

hese,like allヽ 4in― oan colunlns,taper at the bottonl. I｀

Strategically placed copics of Minoan

AIso Ⅵ7o■ h seeking Out in the northern Pithoi wcre ceramic jars used br storing olive oil,wine and grain.Evans lound over

100 of thcse huge jars tt Knossos(some

were 2m high).The rOpes used to move

escoes help infuse the site with the artis― tic spirit of these rernarkable people. The

thenl inspired the raised patterns that adorn

Minoan achievements in plumbing equal their achievements in ipainting;drains and

C)nce you have reached the Central Court,which in Minoan times was sur‐

pipcs were carefullylplaced to avoid flood‐ ing,taking advantage ofcentrinlga1 1。 rce.It

you can begin exp10ring the rnOst iinpOrtant

fl‐

appears that at sorne pOints water ran uphill,

denlonstrating a inastery Of the principle that Water inds its own level.AIso notice

the jars.

rounded bン ′the high walls of the palace,

roonls ofthe cornplex. Fronlthe northcrn end ofthe west sidc Of the palace,steps iead dO、 vn tO the ThrOne

the placernent Of light、 vells and the rela‐

Room.This ro。 l is fenced off but you can

tionship of roOrns tO passagcs, porches, light、 vclls and verandas,which keep r00rns

still get a good vic、 v Ofit.´ he centrcpiece,

C001in Summer and Warm in WinteL

´ 「 he usual entrance tO the palace cOnlplex is acrOss the Western Court and along the ´ COrridOr of the Procession Fresco. 「 he nresco depicted a long line of people carry_ ing gifts tO present to the king; 。nly nrag「

nlents rernain. A copy of one of these agments,called the Priest King Fresclo,can be seen to the south Ofthe Central Court. An alternative、 vay to enter is tO have a fi‐

look at the COrridOr Of the ProcessiOn

lΥ

l「

the sinlple,beautifully prOpOrtiOned throne,

is nanked by the Griffin Fresco.Grifins were nlythical beasts regarded as sacred by

the Minoans. ′ rhc r。 。11l is thought to have been a shrine, and the thrOne the seat of a high priestess,rather than a king.Certainly,the rooin seerns to have an aura of lmysticism and reverence rather than ponlp and cere‐ nlony.´ 「

he Minoans did not、vOrship their

deities in great temples but in snlali shrines,

Fresco, then walk straight ahead to enter

and each palace had several. (1)n the lst n。 。r ofthis side ofthe palace

thc site nrom the northern end.Ifyou do this you wili come tO the theatrai area,a series

bi!e,for he believecithe recepti()n and state‐

of steps、 vhOse function remains unknO、

rooms were here.A room atthe no■ hern

vn

lt could have been a theatre where spccta‐ tors、 vatched acrobatic and dance perfOrrn‐ r―

is the section Evans called the Piano No‐

end ofthis floor displays cOpies Of sOnle of the lrescoes found at Knossos.

188 Ammoudara―

Orientation

Returning to the Central Court,the im‐ pressive grand staircase leads frolll thc

Places tio Stay Ammoudara is dominated by large reson

middle of the castern side of the palace to

hotels but thcrc are a new dOinatia scatered

vhich Evans callcd the rOyal apartments, 、 the Domcstic Quarter.This scction of the νithin the royal site is no、 v cordoned of■ ヽ apal■ ments is the Ha::ofthe Doub!e Axes.

Rο ο ″sr・ 25θ 72〃 with singles/doubles lor ι ′S“ ″r● 25′ 8000/10,000 di Nearby is〃 ο′

This was the king's lnegaron,a spacious dOuble roonl in which the ruler both slept ´ and carried out certain court duties. 「 he rOOrn had a light well at one end and a bal― cony at the other to cnsurc air circulation. The rooln takes its nanle ioin the double axe marks on its light wcll.These marks ap―

pear in inany places at Knossos.The double axe`′ α bッ sり was a s¨ red symbolto the Min―

。ans,and the origin of our word`labyrinth'. A passage leads iom the Ha1l of thc

Double Axes to thc queen's megaron. Above the door is a copy of the lDo:Phin ヽ4inoan Fresco, one of the FnOSt eXquiSite art、 vorks.A blue noral design decorates the portal. Ncxt to this rooin is the quccn's bathroonl,cornplete with teiTaco■ a bathtub

and a water closet,10uted as the irst ever to l″ 。 rk on the nush principle;water、 vas poured doゝ ′ ri by hand.

Getting There&Away Regular buses operate from irak!io. See lraklio's Getting Around section for dctails.

AMMOUDARA Amnloudara lies about 4 krn、 vcst of lraklio and is the ciosest beach to thc city. Long, sandy and、 vidc,thc beach is relatively un―

″′

about.Across,om the Candia Marisis R′

6〃 which has a small swim‐ 79θ ,フ 2χ 25′ ノ nling pool and simple single/double roonls

10r10,000/12,ooo di Иgαフ′3`α

r富

25θ

`力 is in the middle of the hOtel strip right on the beach and has two inllming pools,three tennis courts, outdoor s、′ air― conditioning and a、 vatcr sports centre. Singles/doubles arc 29,000/48,000 drin the 5θ 2,′

=25873〃

hitt season and includes half― board ´ ′ ′ αiイ ′,9 he other deluxe hotel is(:】 α″´ r● 3ノ イ632,′ 富25θ 66,which has a centre vell as an()lpen air for thalassotherapy as 、 cinenla, six tcnnis courts, air― con and a iα

I｀

kindergarlen that ottiers babysitting.Singles/

doubles are 57,800/66,000 drin high season, including breakfast.

Places to Eat

´ 「 he dining scene in Amnloudara is unin― ″″ ラ タ1カ ′α″ spiring but you could try Cο ′ tι srα ″ α″′、 vhich has crispy duck (:lヵ ゴ ″′s′ 」 “ with shrinlp at a reason― and fried noodles able price. It's open 6.30pm to rnidnight '′

Monday through Saturday.

Discos When the surnrner gets going in lraklio, clubbcrs head west to Alll■ loudara 13each O is the hottest disco in and beyond.3α α′ `力 the region and 13enerates high―

voltage glarn―

crowded,making Ammoudara a good alter―

Our On sunlmer evenings.It's in Linopera―

native place to stay if you、 vant to escape big― city lraklio.The discos and nightlife of AlΥ lnloudara lure tourists and residents Of lraklio alike during the surnmer.

mata,2 km west of Ammoudara,and is Open ll pm to dawn daily ■om June to September.

Orientation

Bα ″α″α ″b across thc street frorn thc Candia ― Maris hotei v´ hich has live nlusic. 3α ′

The town lies along the main road iom

r″ ε″″α

lraklio.The strip of hotels begins at Candia

beach.

In the centre ofArnrnoudara ttγ

C'′

ヽ4aris in the east and ends atthe hotel I)ol― phin Bay in the west.Although itlmay seein as though the beach is colτ lpletely barri― caded by hotels, in fact there are entrances

ncxtto the Agapi Bcach hotel and the Can― diaヽ 4aris hotel. ‐ ■

「 T

CI′ を iS a SpaCiOuS bar right On the

Getting There&Away The No 6 bus iom lraklio stops in■ ont of the cretan Beach hotel and the Agapi Bcach hotel in Allllmoudara.By taxi it costs about 1000 dr. '

■

・ '

r―

一

South(Centra:lraklio―

'rori 189

5outh Central

square and P′ ″s′ ο″ iイ ′ g`″ ′ ′ ′ which is signpostcd 400rn upう roln the museurn.

lrakllo Region

MIR■ S

lα

7:'0892 0 pop 3500

Thc hittway thatruns■ om Timpakito Pir‐

´

gos divides the nO■ hern pOrtion ofthc lrak―

r'his busy rnarkett。 、 vn is an inevitable stop if you'rc changing buses frOm lraklio en

liO prefecture nrom the southern coastal

route to the south coast.It's a good place tO

s.Along the highway are busy com― merCial centres,such as Tiinpakl,Mires,

pick up supplies in the many stOres lining

reso■

Agia Deka and Pirgos that market the agri‐ cultural prOduce i[Oni the surrounding re‐

gion. Although these towns hold little interest for tOurists they do give a sensc Of

thc dynamism of the Cretan economy.Of nlore interest to travellers are the extraor―

dinary archaeo10gical sites Of Phaestos, Agia Triada and Gortyn which trace almost 3000 ycars ofancient history florn Minoans through the Romans to the carly Christians.

When you gettired ofpoking around an‐

cient ruins tlle sOutll coast beaches Of Matala,Kalamaki and Lendas beckon with

「 here's a post ofnce on the main street and the()TE is on the streetim the main street.′

rnediately south of the bus station. Also around the bus station is the Commercial 13ank of(]recce with an AI「 M.lf you have to stay overnight you'1l find R″ ″′Rο ο″s GO′ ′ ν.sr● 2252∂ ソ signposted 150m up onl the bus station.1｀ here are 13 buses a fl・

day ioim lraklio(1%hours,1050 do. G《 )RTYN「 6pτ ov

The archaeological site of Go■ yn(also called Go■ ina and Gortys),46km south‐ west of lraklio, is the largcst in Crete and

10ng stretches ofsandy beach.Fu■ herto the east are the rnore deselted beach tOν vns Of

one of the most fascinating.´ 「 here's li■ le

Arvi and Keratokanlbos and the 10vely

Gortyn w郷 l li■ le more than a subject town ofpower■ 1l PhacstOs until it began accunlu_ 1江 ing riCheS(mOStly'Om piraCy)under the

rnountain town ofAno Viannos.

VORI

´ 「 he pleaSant unspoilt village of lVlori,2krn

here lronl the Minoan period because

Dorians.By the Sth century BC,it was asin‐

east of Tiinpaki,is compOsed of a inain square surrOunded by winding streets Of

nuential as Iく nossos.vvhen crete was under threat iom the Romansthe Go■ ynians clev‐ erly nlade a pact with them and,、vhen the

whitewashed houses. The inain attractiOn here is the outstanding Museu:1l of Cretan

Romans conquered the isiand in 67 13C,tlley madc(3o■ yn the island's capital.The city

Ethnoiogy,which provides a fascinating in‐

blossomed under Roman adrninistrators

sight into traditional Cretan culture.´

who endowed it、 vith lavish ipublic buildings

「 he

de‐

tailed explanations are in iEnglish,the irst part ofthe exhibits deal with the herbs,nora

such as a lPraetoriurn, anlphitheatre,public

and fauna that fonn the basis Ofthe Cretan ´ diet. here are descriptiOns about ho、 v snails, crabs and eels were gathered and

the 7th― century‐ 13C llemple of thc Pithian Apollo and the 7th‐ century‐ AD Church of

I｀

eaten.(Dther exhibits include farl■ l inlple― 11lents such as ploughs and grinding inills as

well as beautiful weavings, wicker furni‐ ture, woodcarvings and lnusical instru‐ ments.The museum is we‖ ‐signpOsted 'Omdally pm theinain intheroad summe■ and is9open 6 anlto103ampmtoMon‐ day to Friday,■ om November to March. Adnlission is 500 dr. There are a few′ αッι′ ″αs arOund the main

baths,Inusic school and temples.Except for

Agios Titos,most ofwhat you seein Go“ yn dates ioin the Roman period.Go■ yn's cen‐ turies of splendour carne to an end in 824 AI)when the Saracens raided the island and destroyed the city.

´ he vastness of the site indicates how important Gortyn city was to the Romans. I｀

The city sprawis Over a square kllometre of

plains, foothills and the suinmit of Agios

loannis Mountain.As for most Roman The

cities,water was an impOrtant mate■

190 SOuth iCentral iraklio―

Gortyn

GORTYN l Acropolis

3 0deton and Law Code

´ ――´´

｀

｀ち 、

10 Sanctuary oFthe Egyptian Gods

,,Tcmple of APo‖ o 12 Theatre

13 Amphitheater

17 Stadium

ヽヽ ヽ

／ ぐ △

◇ ヽゎ a.η os P′

l &tena`

Rornans needed water fOr their elaborate SySternS Of fOuntains and public baths.At

basilica and a private residence.Most ofthe

ruins date frorn the 2nd century AI)and

´ ere repaired in the 4th century. 「 o the

one time there inust have been ducts and an

v′

aqueduct that brOught water fronl the

north is the 2nd century Nynlphaeum, a

springs ofVotomos,15 km away.There also

public bath supplied by an aqueduct bring‐

must have becn streets and a tO、 vn square,

ing water■ om Zaros.It was originally

but thesc have not been excavated. Although ltalian archacologist iFederico Ialbheri・ ■rst explored the site in the 1880s, excavations are stili going On. Thcre is a

adorned i″ ith statues of nylmphs.South of

fenced area north of the nlain rOad、

the fcnccd area is Church of Agios Titos

l‐

vith a

the nymphacum is the amphitheatre which dates lrom the late 2nd century A[).

The most impressive monument within

large nunlber Of ruins Outside thc fenced area both nolllh and south Ofthe main rOad lrorrl Agia lDeka.Bcginning south of the nlain road you'11 ■rst corne to Tenlple of

which is the inest early Christian church in Crete.It was probably built On the site Ofan earlier church l)ut this constructiOn dates

the Pythian Apo‖ o which was the inain

church has t、 vo small apses and contains

Roman Gortyn.Built in

three levels.´ 「 he surviving apse prOvides a

sanctuary of pre‐

the 7th centuウ ′BC,the temple was ex― panded in the third century BC)and con― Verted into a(:〕 hristian basilica in the 2nd

century AD.Nearby is Praetorium which was the palace of the Roman governor of Crete,an administrative building with a

彙om the 6th centuly.The stonc cruciform

hint of the nlagnillcence Of this church

rnany centuries ago.1ヾ earby is the《:)deiOn

which was a theatre built arOund the lst century IBC.Behind the()deion is a plane tree that, according to legend, served as a

love nest lor Zeus and Europa.

Phaestos 191

South iCentra:irak!io―

Beyond the OdeiOn is the star a"ractiOn ― the StOne tablets engraved with the 6th

century lBC Laws of Gortyn.The stone tablCtS COntaining the laws,written in 600 lines in a E)orian dialect, 、 vere the earliest iaw code in the Greck wOrid.Ancient Cre‐ tans were preoccupied with the same issues that drive peOplc intO cOurt today― rnar―

around 1700 13C.It too、 vas destroyed in the

CataStrOphe that befeli the isiand in 1450 BC. In the intervening centuries PhaestOs was the ipolitical and adnlinistrative centre

of the Mesara Plain.Ancient texts refer tO thc palace's irnpOrtance and note that it

rninted its own coins.Although Phaestos continued to be inhabited in later centuries,

riage,divorce,transfers Of property,inher―

it fell into decline as Gortyn rose in iinpO■

itance and adoption as ν vell

ance.Underthe I])orians PhacstOs headed a league Of Citics that included Matala and

as crilrlinal

offences.I)orian legal theories are intercst_ ingi but the rnain value ofthese rcnlarkable tablets is the insight they prOvide into the SOCial organisation of pre― Roman Crete. It

was an extremely hierarchical society,di― vided into slaves and several categories of fiee citizens,cach Ofwhorn had strictly de_ lineated rights and Obligations. lt's a bit of a hike butit's wOrth visiting the AcroPC)lis at the tOp Of the hill in the nOrth‐ WeSt corner ofthe site.Follo、 ′ ing the rOad along the strealll near the(Ddeion yOu Will corne to a gate beyond the theatre that

_

Polyrhinia in western Crete.The leagues batled continuOusly and Phaestos was de‐ feated by Go“ yn in the 2nd century BC. Excavation ofthe site began in 1900 by Professor Federico Halbherr of the ltalian School ofArchaeology,which is cOntinuing the eXCaVatiOn work. In contrast to Knos‐ sos,Phaestos has yielded very few n・ escoes; it seerns the palace walls were nlostly cOvt

ered with a layer ofwhite gypsurn.Perhaps, with such inspiring views frorn the win_ dows,the inhabitants didn't feel any need tO

nlarks the start ofthe path to the top.In add― ition to a birds‐eye vic"′ Of the entire site,

decorate their walis.There has been no re_

the acropolis cOntains inlpressive sectiOns ofthe pre― Roman rampals. The site(● 0892-31144)is open 8 am to

Visualising the structure ofthe palace is ftr_

6 pm daily.Adnlission is 800 dr.Buses tO

constructiOn Ofthese ruins.´ he difaculty of I｀

ther conlpOunded by the factthatthe site in‐

cludes renlains Of the C)ld Palacc and the lヽ

lew Palace.

Phaestos stOp at(〕 ortyn.

PHAEST(0)S 1｀

■xPloring Φαtσ τ 69

he Minoan site of PhaestOs(Fes‐

tos),

63km iom lrakliO,was the second mOst

the Site

Past the ticket booth, the Upper Coult which was used in bOth the Old and new palaces cOntains renlains of buildings if101n

ilnpOrtant palace city of Mincan Crete.Of ali the Minoan sitcs,Phacstos has the most

the l-lellenistic era.A stail、 vay

inspiring 10cation,with all― embracing views ofthe Mesara Plain and Mt Psiloritis.

staging ground for perfornlances.'The seats are atthe nOrthern end and the southern end

a、ve‐

1・

he layOut Of the palace is identical tO

Knossos,with rooms aranged around a

contains the westfacade of the O:d Palace. The 15in‐ wide grand stairway leads to the

Propy!on which was a porch.The steps Of

central court. Pottery deposits indicate that the site、 vas

inhabited in the Neolithic era probably around 4000 BC i″ hen thc irst sc■ lers

leads dOwn to the Theatra: Area which was once the

es‐

tablished thenlselves on the sIOpes Of nearby Kastri Hill.The irst palace was built around 2000 BC and then destrOyed in the ea■ hquake that levelled so nlany Min‐ oan palaces.1｀ he ruins、 vere covered with a

layer Of lime and debris which 10rrned the basis for a ne、 ′palace that 、 vas begun

the stainvay are thicker and higher in the middle to produce a more irnprcssive e← fect. Be10Ⅵ ′the Propylon are the store‐ rOO171S｀ ⅣhiCh Still COntain pithOi StOrage urns.´ 「 he square hall next to the storeroorns

is thOught tO have been an office, where tablets containing Linear A script lⅣ ere fOund beneath the ifloor in 1955. South of the storerOOrn a cOrridorled to the west side

ofthe Central cOurt.South ofthe cOnidOr

192 South(Centra::raklio― Phaestos

PHAESTOS

「

t

′16′

:1:Z:

●

ギ

1

′

。

12′

ヽ一塾 ヽ ヽ

に

「

‐

.

2リ 11● 9。

ヽ

ヽ 、2

｀

ヽ■に

こLと 、 ‖

｀.

・

′

′ ′

｀

′ 慮脇 l The計 にI Area 2 Wei Facade of

f

′

the Old Pala∝ 3 Classica Temple 4 Neo‖ thic Hut 5 tu“ ra 8asin 6 Pi‖ ar Cryメ

ア Rooms with Benches 8 Corndor 9 (D,nce

０ コ ︼くα一

◇

―

0

,0

20′ d

14 Corndo「

15 Peniソ le Coun

16 0ueen,MegaЮ n 17 Kings MegaЮ 18 Archve

n

19 Workshops 20 Fumace

-

([)entral C,ourt is the centrepicce of the

continue. Enter through the Forma:【 )oor‐ way with half colllmns at either side, the ′ ″s′ r“ .′ he 10wer parts Of which are still

palace, afi6ording spectacular views of the

cOnridor leads to the north court;the Peri‐

surrounding area. It is extrerllely well‐ lllagnincence of the palace.Porticoes with c。 lurnns and pillars once lined the long

style Court,which oncc had a paved veト ′ The royal anda, is tO the left of here. apartinents(Queen's Megaron and Kingヽ Megaron)are north‐ east of the Peristyle

sides Of the Central Cou威 .Notice the

court but they are culTently fenced Off/rhe

Neolithic hut atthe south― westenl corner of

vas found in a celebrated Phacstos E)isc 、 building to the noll:h ofthe palace.It noヽ v resides in lraklio's Archaeological iMu―

is a:ustrai basin,roorns with benches and a pi‖

ar crypt sinlllar to thtt at Knossos.The

preserved a■ ld gives a good sense of the

the Central Cou■ .The best preserved pa■ s

Of the palace cOmplex are the reception r00ms and private apanments tO the nOnh of the iClentral Court, where excavations

￨「

seunl.The site is open 8 am to 7 pin daily.

Admisslon is 1200 dr.

Fishing boats n10。 red in lrakll。 's harbOur with the skyline of the island's capitalin the background

Fortress wa‖ s rise out of the harbourin lraklio

≧

lraklio's fortresS― a safe haven fOr fishing boats

Cretan anchor near lrak:io's harbour

≧

AAatala Beachヽ ″as once one of Crete's rnost fanlouS hipple hang‐

outs.

The highlight of lrakllo's Rocca al Mare is its exterior rellef of the Llon of St Mark.

The Central Court of the Minoan site of Phaestos,near irakll。

Excavations of the Palace of Malia have uncovered exquisite Minoan artefacts

The restoration of KnOssOs helPs visitors understand how the Minoans llved 40()C)years ago

South Centra!:rak!io― Agia Triada 193

Getting There&Away

Masterpieces of Minoan art such as the

Therc are eight buses a day nrorn lrakli。

`Harvester's｀/lase',thc`13oxer Vase'and thc

's

Bus Station B to Phacstos(1%hrs,1250 dr), six■ om Agia Galini(40 minutes,400 dr)

`Chietain's Cup',now in the lraklio Arch―

acological Museum,、 vere found here but

and ive"om Matala(30 minutes,300 dr).

the palace、 vas clearly nOt as iinportant as the palace atI)haestos.Its principal building

Services are halved in winte■

AG:A TRIADA Aγ Agia Triada(ag-1-a tri―

was snlallcr than the other royal palaces al― though it、 ′ as built tO a siinilar design.・

〔 α Tpldδ α a‐

This,

∼ and the OpulCnCe Ofthe OtteCtS fOund atthC

da)is a small Min‐

oan site 3krn 、 vcst of PhaestOs in an en― chanting landscape surrOunded by hills and orange groves.Like the site of Phaestos it appears that Agia′ rriada has been occupied since the Tヽ こ eolithic era.

sitc,indicate that it、 vas a royal residence,

possibly a suminer palace of Phaestos' rulers.

Aller the entrance,you、vill■ rst pass the

ruins of a Minoan House before reaching

AG:A TRIADA ヽ          ヽ ″  ‘

′′

°

コ

ｒ

:皓「

ヽ ′．′ ，′Ｌ ′

′

3 Shrinc aZineS and W°

D Tho′os I

・

SI

く ●

。

rkSh° pS

"・

(

) /

ｍ 一

ミ ￨

﹁コ‘コ

ー ■Ｆ Ｉ ， パ トに ′

︱ ´ ︱ ＩＬ Ｉ 一

｀｀ム ―

′７ ι   ヽ

コ ノｒ

点

、

ｌ ｉｌ■

  一

口﹁ ９

ｒ．

￨

A

1…

◇ …

■

[二 )

:

―

194 South(Centra!iraklio― Mataia

the shrine that dates from the early 14th century BC. It oncc contained a fiescoed floor painted with octopus and dolphins. The nooris now in the Archacological Mu‐

d、 vellings

seum oflraklio_No貢 h‐ west ofthe shrine is

ヽ4atala which probably served as a port for the great Minoan centre of Phaestos.Matala

a paved collityard that ltalian excavators called the Cou:1: of Shrines. Notice the

maga2ineS and WOrkShOpS in the SOuth‐ west wing of thc palace;the`Chieftain's

lor rnany centuries.・ 「 he soft rock allowed cave‐ dwellers to carve out win―

dows,doors and beds. The caves are ali that rernains of ancient

enり oyed

a burst of activity under the lRo‐

Cup'was lound in one of these rooms.

mans that lasted■ om 67BC untilthe Arab COnqueSt in the 9th Century. I)uring thOse centuries Matala was the port lor Gortyn.

North ofthe workshops you v ll come to a ha::alld then the inner chamber that con―

Excavations around Matala have revealed coins iom Gortyn,vases and amphorac.

tainS a raiSed Siab thatFnight haVe SuppOrted a bed, indicating that these were the resi‐ dential quarters.1｀ his part ofthe palacc had

´ rhese days,Matala is a decidedly tacky tourist resortl packed out in sunlmer and

bleak and deselted in、 vintet・ 「 he turtles like it howeve■ Matala and the area around itis

roorns lor entertainment and roorns for business.「 he archives room once con‐ tailled く )ver 200 sealstones, which were probably used to fasten documents,and a

Ciα ぁ θ′ ′ α sea tuttles.The Sca´「 ul■ le Protec‐ tion Socicty has a booth near the car park.

wall painting ofthe wild cat ofCrete that is

1｀

now in the Archaeological Museunl oflrak‐

([〕

lio.The Ralmpa al Mare ramp that rlins be‐ neath the no■ h side ofthe palace is thought to have run doν vn to the sea at one point.A

T・

a popular nesting ground for Cα ′ο′ ′ α he sandy beach below the caves is one of

rete's best,and the resolllis a convenient base fronl which to visit Phaestos and Agia riada.

０〓︼く螢

path leads ionl the fenced site along the hillside to a Minoan celmletery that dates ■.om around 2000 BC.There are two circu‐

0『 lentation&]nforrnatlon Malala's iayout is easy to fhtholn.The bus

lar beehive tornbs. ´ 「 he site is open 8.30 am to 3 prn daily.

Admission is 500 di The road to Agia Tri‐

,。 m the wateriont.There is a mobne p。 ■ 。fncejuttpastthe capark on the n」 lt aS yOu enter the town.Theく )TE is LЮ yond here in

ada takes o(1・ to the right about 500m l卜 oln

the beach car park.There is no tourist ofnce

Phaestos on the road to Matala.′

I｀

here is no

but Monza Travel(● 45757,fax 45 763)on the ritttぉ you entertown rent Юoms,叩 art‐

public transport to the site.

Mバ

stop is on the centtal square,one block back

ments, cars and bikes, change money and ταλα

=ALA Mこ ● 0892 0 postcode 702 00 ● PoP 300

arrange for boat excursions.There is a laun‐ k_ d。/。 n the len as you entert。 .in and a b。 。

Maala(ma‐ ta‐ 1の ,on the coast llkm south‐

shop with English language books and

west of Phaestos,was once one of Crete's

newspapers next to the Hotel zanria.

best known hippie hang― outs.When you sce the dozens ofeerie caves speckling the roclk

Things to See&Do

siab on the beach's edge,you'1lsee why 60s hippies fOund it like gr。 。vy,man.´ he hip_ r｀

pies turncd the caves into a nlodern troglodyte city― inoving ever higher up the cliffto avoid sporadic atternpts by the local

police to evict them. Joni ヽ4itchell was among a nuinber ofhippies who lived in the

Forget about nluseurns,

■lonurnents, and

archacological sites. ヽ4atala is about the beach and the caves.11｀ he caves are fenced off by night but you can visit thenl florn 8

am to 7 pm daily, June to Septenlber. It costs 500 di・ The beach is great lor swim‐

caves;she l■ 7rote abollt the Matala nloon in

ming and has pine trees along the edge which cast sorne shade. You can rent a

her song,cα ′ .The caves weに 。riginany `ッ Ronlan tombs cut out ofthe sandstone rock

nlore energetic,peda11)oats cost 2500 dr an

in the lst century AI)and have been used as

hour and canoes are 1000 dr an houn

lounge chair for 700 dr a day.If you feel

SOuth iCentral:rak:io―

For a less crOν vded beach head to Kokkini Ammos(Red Beach).It's a 30 11linute scranlble sOuth over the rOcks and attraCtS a Snlattering Of nudists.At the fur‐ thest end ofto、 vn a10ng the beach is a nlar‐

Around Mata:a 195

Places to Eat Most of the restaurants in Matala are rnOre

notable for their seaside views than their Cuisine which tends to be undistinguished. I′ ′ ο″s is a popular hang_Out right on the

ket street with w00dcarvings,jewenery,

beach、 vith pretty g00d lood.IYlou could alsO

ceramics and small fruit stands selling local prOducts.

tぅ ′r″

Places to Stay ″【 α″′ αCο ″″″″′ 夕 Gα ″P′ ″gr● イ23イ の is

OB′0′ 力′′s andハ イ ″ο″s.For self― Caterers, there's a rninimarket acrOss the street iom the HOtel Za■ iria. R′S′α″′ α″′り S′ iCα ′ン7′ ″,high above lα

a lovely,shady site just back iom the

Komos Beach abOut 3kin■ oln Matala,has SpeCtaCular views over the Messara Gulf

beaCh.There iS anOther cα ″Ps′ ′

and Iく omos Beach and serves excellent([〕

イ2

596, near iKomos Bcach, abOut`r● 4 km

before Matala on the rOad i[om PhaestOs. ′ 「 here are several ipleasant options in Matala prOper.ヽ Valk back a10ng the main road fiorn the bus station and turn right at

re―

tan spccialties.・ he restaurant is signposted 1｀

offthe road tO Phaestos and is open n00n to rnidnight daily.

Cel日ting

There&Away

the Zairia HOtel.This street is lined with budget accOrninodation.

Thcre are eight buscs a day betwcen lraklio

()ne Of the best options is Fα ″′ αs′ ′ Rο ο″S′οR″ ′Fイ 536以 On thc right Thc` prCtヽ ′dOuble/triple roorns cost 6000/7000

between Matala and Phaestos,(30 minutes,

dr with private bathrOOrn, telephone and ■idge_Pセ ″S′ ο″И″″ ο″Jο s r● イ5ノ 23/イ 3(3,,

opposite,

has

attractively

furnished

singles/dOubles/triples with bathrooms are

4000/6000/7000 dr,

and double/triple

apartrnents cost 8000/9000 dr. (I)n the samc street yOu'11■ nd S′ ′ ッ′ α」 R′ ″ ′

Rο ο″sr雪 イ5ノ 2〃 that has doublesた riples

for 5000/7000 dr. Thc C‐ class I:「 ο′ ′′ .ィ Fl″ α gisル ο s r雪 53∂ θ/ノ 35,, On the len as yOu head O■ lt Oftown,charges 8000/14,500 dr lor singles/dOubles 、′ ith private bath―

room.The hOtel is somewhtt bland but it has a swimnling p001.Breakfast is an extra 1500 dr per day and air― conditiOning is an extra 1500 dr a day. ()n the right as yOu head Out ofto、 vn is

Лり″′E″ ″ OPa r奮 イ,′ ノ〃,an attraCtiVC building Of、 vhite、 vashed walis and pine that haS Singlcs/doubles for 7000/8000 dr a day.

The sprawling″ ο″′Zα ρ′′ ″r・ ィj36こ ノbχ イ57イ 〃 takes up a goOd pOrtion of Matala'S main road into to、 vn.At the hotel there is a spaciOus IObby― bar and r00rns have balconies,sea vie、 vs,and telephones. Singles/doubles are 7000/8500 drincluding breakfast.

and Matala(mO hOurs,1500 dr),five a day

300 dr),eight a day bctween Mires and Matala(30 minutes,300 dr)and six a day between Matala and Agia Galini(45 min― utes,600 do.

AROUND MA「 ALA When Matala nlls up in the sunllller,trav― ellers head tO Pitsidia,a sleepy li■ le town 5kni north― cast ofMatala.Therc's not much

to do here except inect Other travellers and

b00k a hOrSe riding tour from Melanouri Horsc Farin(● 0892‐ 45040)which Offers lcssons and beach rides through the sur― rounding region.A full day tOur is 12,000 dr.There iS no post ofice or OTE.You can rent CarS Or nlotorcycles frorn Monza´ ravel 「

Agency(官 0832-45275).″οた′И′′′ ο″sα ∂92-ィ 555,,。 n the main road,has r・ θ Singles/doubles for 6000/7000 dr.

AIso on the main road is R′ ″r Rο ο″ θ∂92-イ 527,ソ which has a large`s taverna`奮on the grOund f100r and roorlls Bα うお

above.()ne ki10rnetres west of Pitsidia is Fο ″″οs Cα ″P′ ″gr・ θ∂92-ィ 5594./2“ イ525の WhiCh iS beaut llly located nextto the beach and has a s、 vimrning pool. AII buscs to Matala stop in Pitsidia;the bus stop is in the centre Ofthe t。

、n in nront ∼

of Hotel Aretousa. ´ rhree kilornetres east of Pitsidia is thc

196 South(Centra:lraklio―

Kanla!ari

sinall village ofSivas.It's a good alternative

αr・ イ′6∂ ,which town is P′ ″s′ ο″c“ ′

to Matala and has nlore character than iPit―

tidy r00rns and a shady garden.Next door ′ ″α″οs r・ イ269o).Both have is sr″ ″ ′ οs ft′ ′ ― ′ singles/doubles for 5000/6000 dr.′ 4′ α″ ′ ″ι″な И″めι″οrお α 汐0‐ χ イ269θ ,′ ″α′ ′ ′ ″″ιr gり haS 」 αた α″ろι′ οSrISα @″ ″″′ ノ♭′ `雷 `S″ furnished studios/apartrnents for 56,000/

sidia.It is ainlost untouched by tourisrn al―

though there are two domatia:'1′ ″′Rο O″ s 」 K″ ″′ ι′ う ″r r・ θ∂92-イ 2 6イ 9り and Л ″′ Rο ο ″,s二“ のos r・ θ∂92-イ 26θ 5ソ .There are :′

signs to both places at the entrance to the tOwn.There are a fcw kafeneia in the pleas‐

ant,shady square and an excellent ceramic shop.Vasilis Pelos is the potter and you can

has

70,000 dra week.´「 hc pink:and white stucco

building has a stone 16replace,veranda and ″αiイ ′ ο″αs has an outdoor barbecuc. レッι′ i′

scc hinl working at the wheel turning out typical Cretan cups,vases and dishes.Buses ■om Miras to Matala stop just outside of

good iCretan food in the“centre oftown.

the village.

There is one inorning bus daily iom lrak‐

KAMALARI 電 0892 o poP 339 :「

Built on top of three hills,KalYlalari prO―

vides a complete escape into traditional Cretan village lit.Its proximity to Kal″ maki Bcach makes it attractive to visitors plus there's an imponant Minoan tombjust Outside tOwn.Since the town is only 2.5krn west of Phaestos, it's a good base frorn

Cetting There&Away lio via Mics(1%hours,1450 dr).

KALAMAKl l:P0892 ・ 「 he wide, sandy beach that stretches for nlany ki10rnetres in either direction is Kala―

maki's best feature,and nlakes fOr a beau‐ tiful l″

alk.Located 2.5km south‐ west of

Karnalari,tourism is in its enlbryonic stage

logical sites of the south coast.

in Iく alarnaki an‐ er the recent Opening of a ´ he paved road ali the way to the beach. good ne、 vs is that you won't feel crowded

Or:entation&inforrnation

but,unlortunately,the beach is lined with a string of half finished concrete structures.

which to explore tlle beaches and archaco―

´ Iヽ

here's no tourist onEce btlt in the centre of

I｀

It's a quiet place to stay howevet and the

town Moto Auto Store(雷 /fax 42 690)rents

swirnΠling is good.

cars, inOtorcycles, roorns and apartrnents. It's open 8 anlto l pm and 5 to 9 prn Mon― day to Saturday.

Orientatlo■ 8`Inforrnation

Things to See

beach.´ here is no post ofnce,tourist of16ce,

There is one main road leading into the tO、vn square which is right behind the Iヽ

The circular Minoan Tomb of Kamalari

or OTE but Kalamaki Rent lMotors

dates iom 1900 BC and is extraordinarily

(‐

well― preserved with stone、 valls still stand― ing t、 vo

inetres high.Archaeologists believe

45470)is a■ iendly,inお rmative ofice that handles car and bike rentals, hotel rcscrvations and air and boat tickets.It's in

circular tonlb that were used for burial rites.

the main square and is open 9 anl to 2 prn and 5 to 10 pm daily'oln Easter to Octo‐

Clay models depicting the funcrary rituals ′ 、 へ ere uneanhcd by excavators and are now in the Archaeological Museunl of lraklio.

bcr. Unlbrellas and beach chairs are avail‐ able for rent on the beach but nlosttaverna lining the beachf7ont pronlenade ofier thern

The road to the tonlb is clearly indicated at the entrance to Kamalari.

lor nree ifyou eat at their establishlllent.

Places to Stay&Eat

く :)n the right、 vhen you enterthe town you'11 ″ r・ イ52ノ 〃 a brand come to Rο ο″sハ vhich has new three‐ storcy`1/υbuilding 、 singles/doubles for 7000/9000d● Jearby is

thatthere were ive small rooms outside the

Kanlalari is beconling popular with trav― ellers so there are a nurnber of accornmo‐ datlon opportunltles.At the entrance to the

Places to Stay&Eat

1ヽ

South(Centra::raklio―

Kom:nos 197

Pι ″s′ ο ″ιめッα″ sι αr雪 びπ

ィ5ノ ∂の which has sinlple but pleasant roorns for 8000 di κοs″ R′ ″′Rο ο″sr・ ィは ィ569〃 ,on the

have expanded the original little village intO

nlain“square on top of a nlini nlarket and

a inore sizeable town,but Lendas rctains an appealing intimacy. Within 、 valking dis― tance there's an archacological site and the

travcl agency, has singles/doubles lor

II)ytikos naturist bcach.

5000/7000 dr.Along the beach try Rο ο "s Ps′′ ο′ ″sr・ ィ5693ソ with singleダ dOubles “ at 6000/8000 di ()ne of the mOst attractive places to stay in I(alamaklis fセ ″s′ ο″6滋 ″′ ″′ 5θ イ2,ノ aχ 2'イ イ2,which is about 100m r● イ ioin the sea.The spaciOus rOOms with bal― conies are funlished in pinc and some have nllly cquipped kitchens.'There,s also a r。 。f top terrace with a view ofthc sea.Singles/ doubles are 9000/11,000 dr. (:)n the central square raッ ′ ′ ″″′ 4ッ ′ αis a

Orientation 8:Inforrnation As you enter tOwn lrom the nlain rOad there's a leni fork that takes you to the east_

erll car park and a right fork that takes you to the rllain square.´「 he bus stOps Outside

the eastern car ipark. In the rnain sqllare

you'1l ind Monza´ rravel Agency, an ex‐ changc placc and a supermarket.1｀ here is nO

post ofice,bank or OTE.To get to lD)ytikos (o■ en called Diskos)lo‖ ow the main road

good breakfast spOt,Ofi「 ering fieshjuice and

west for a kilornctrc Or thc path a10ngside

pastries.Along the beach try DJJ′ ″οrestau―

the coastal cliffs.

rant, R`s′ ″″′ α r」 Plο s′″lο ″αs and 7bッ ι′ ″α I″ ο s

which ottr“Cretan specialties at Fair

prices.

Things to See ´ I｀

CeⅢ ng There&Away There's One mOrning bus da‖ y nrom lrakli。

he archaeological site lof Lebena is right

outside town.Lcbena was a kind of health spa that the Romans visited for its thera‐

The archaeological site of Konlmos, lkm

peutic springs.()nly two granite colunins remain of a temple that daes ttom the 4th century BC.Nextto the temple was a trea‐ sury with a mosaic n。 。r that is stili visible. ヽζ er)′ little else is decipherable and the

west of Pitsida along a beautinul beach,is

springs have been closed since the 1960s.

via Mires(2 hours,1550 dr)

KOMMOS stili being excavated by American and C〕

anadian archaeologists.Although the site

is fenced off it's easy tO get an idea ofit

iom the outside.Kommos is believed to have been the ponl fOr PhaestOs and cOn_ tains a wealth of Minoan structures. It's even possible to spOt the layout of the an‐ cient to、 vn、 vith its streets and cOurtyards, and the rernains of workshops, d、 vellings and tenlples.1ヽ lotice the lvlinOan rOad paved in lilnestone that leads llOrn the sOuthern

′ section inland tO、 、 ards Phaestos;the l・ uts in the road fronl Minoan canls and a sewer on its northern side are stili visible.

● 0892 ・

he narrow pebbly beaches of Lendas

′ 、 、 ould nOt be anyOne's idea Of an idyllic getaway, but the villagc that clings to the cliffoverthe beach has a pleasant view Over

the Libyan Sca.

down to the restaurant and」F:′ ″′」 Rο ο ""s 9522の .Apartments cost 8000

Zο ′ みαs r●

dr,roorns with a seaview are 5000 dr and those without are 4000 dr,all with private bathroonl.Nearby is the taverna and」 R'′ ″′ Rο ο″sE′ Cr′ cο r●

95322,which has

singles/doubles for 5000/6500 dr all with private bathroorns and balconies with sea―

views.Next to the main square is Eッ αも Rο ο ″sr● 952イ タ with doubles b 4500 di

Ge

ng There&Away

・ 「 herc's a daily aiern。 。n

LENDAS r｀

PIaces to Stay l&■ at The right fork llonl the inain rOad takes yOu

´ I｀

he demands of tourisrn

bus nronl lrakli。

(3 hours,1600 dr)

ANO V:ANNOS 7:「

0895 0 pop 1400

Allo Viannos,65knl south oflraklio,is a de‐ lightful village built on the southern nanks of

198 5outh(Central:rak:io― Keratokambos

MtI)ikti.Steep,cobbled strcets lead up florn the nlain road to a thicket oflanes bedecked

KERATOKAMBOS

with nowers and overhung with trees.From

電 :'0895 From Ano Viannos it's 13knl south to the

the top of the village there a・ e pal10rantic views over the region.´ he air is cOoler than

there's a pleasant tree‐ lined beach and nOt

it is along the overheated cOast and the vil― lage gets very li■ le tourismヽwhich lnakes it a

beach contains a few dOmatia and tavernas.

pleaSant StOp Or OVemiま t

The tranquillity ofthis tiny resott is its chief

「

O

′

Stay.

entation&information

unspoilt village of Iく eratokanlbos, where nluch else.The one road that runs a10ng the

asset.

through the village.The pOst Ofice is next

O entatlon&Information There's no bank,post ofice,OTE,car

to the restored church and the Folklore Mu‐

rental agency or any other reminder Of the

seum is On the western end oftown.Signs

outside、vOrld.

I｀

here is only one main road that passes

IIom the town centre direct yOu up tO the Agia Pelagia Church.

Places to Stay(&Eat

strurnents,wine and olive presses,weav_

At the coast turn left to reach 7レ ッ ′′ ″α `セ R00′ ″s r力 ο′ ″′ ″αs r● 5ノ イθ〃, where singles/doubles witll private bathroorn cOst 4000/6000 dr.7bッ ′ ′ ″αNFル ″αs浄 jノ イ77り 『 by the sea in the town centre,Offers deli― cious roastlamb and l)。 rk and has access to

ings and a c。 llectiOn Of farm inlplernents.

four―

It's open 10 am to 2 prn dally.Adrnission

logically sound and aesthetically pleasing, FO″ お S′ ″″οs r● 5ノ 39の oftrs 15 three‐ level apartments exquisitely decorated in a

Things to See The Fo:klore Museu:n,has a wealth Ofex_ hibits exPlaining traditional Cretan culture

there are colourful cOstumes, rnusical in_

is 500 dr.

′

1lhc village's 14th‐ century く :hurch of Agia Peiagia is a tiny structure..The inter‐ ior、 valls, covered 、′ ith lusciOus frescOes ０ コ 〓く“︼

by Nikoforos Fokas, are in renlarkably good condition.

,

person apartrnents for 5000 dr. Eco―

rustic style but with the comfo■ s of air‐ con,telephone and´「 ｀ vL´ Fhe units use wind and solar powerithe se、 vage is treated biO―

logically. Roollls cost 25,000 dr and are

The blues,rusts,Oranges and greens of the frescoes create an other、 voridly effect that perfectly suits the spirituai nature Of their subiccts.Fo‖ ow signs'om the main

street but irst ask in a kafeneia 10r thc

whereabouts ofthe key.

wo

h every bit ofit.The excellent On―

sitc

restaurant uses local products. iイ ′ ″f″g lο

srα ′raッ ′ ′ ″αis the best bet lor vegetarians

with tas,michOke stew b looo dr.物 ′ ι ′ ″α」 icr′ Offiers excellent iEsh dishes and 7レ ッ ′′ ″α7:力 ο′ ″′ ■αs specialises in grilled r′

food.

Places to Stay&■ at Ano Viannos has one domatia.7レ ッι′″α `g[ R00″ sι 鑑″sr● 227′ 9り ,opposite the

largc church,has basic singlcs/doubles for `′ 3000/4000 dr with private bathroOrn.・「 hc roorns are over the taverna 、 vhich has good (E)retan specialties and a pleasant

Cetting There&Away ′ I｀

here's no public transport available to

Kcratokambos.

ARVI ● 0895 0 PoP 300 The turn― o∬ for Arvi is 3km east of Ano

shady terrace.

Cetting There&Away ´

Viannos.Arviis biggerthan Iく eratokambos, but Only gets visitors during July and Au‐

Public transport is pOOr. here are two buses a week■ om lrak‖ o to Ano Viannos

gust.Hemmed in by cliffs,Arvi is a suntrap

(2%hours,1900 dr)and twO a weck tO Ier―

Keratokanlbos,it's a good place tO escape

apetra(onc hour,800 dr)viaヽ 4inos.

the hectic summer resort scene.

I｀

where bananas grow in abundancc.Like

Central irak!io一

0『 ientatlon&inforrnatiOn

´ 「 he inain street skirts a long sand and peb‐ ble beach. It'sa 15‐

lγ

linute walk inland to

Zaros 199

lio pass through a serics Of bustling cOrn‐ nlercial towns and villagcs that see very few tourists.「 Fhere are nc hotels or dOnlatia in

Moni AgiOS ノ ヽndronios, a 19th‐ century

this region.Arhanes makes a w。 ■hwhile

rnonastery on a hillside.There is no bank, post ofice or OTE in Arvi.

stop and Zaros is a goOd base tO exp10re the

surrounding region.

Places to Stay l&Eat

ZAROS

Pι ″s′0″

κο′ ′ρ θ∂95-7ノ 25の ,in a quict setting lkm 'う west of Arvi,has immaculate

●P0894 0 pop 2,500

dOubles/triples with private bathroom for 6000/7000 dr.

cause your litres of inineral

gο ″αrⅢ θ P`″ s′ο″ Gο ″ ∂95-7ノ

353,,on

the nlain street, has pleasant dOubles fOr 7500 dr with bathroom.Further west,」 ビο″′ И′ ′ α″″ θ∂95-7ノ 3θ の has wel‐ kept

`r● singles/doubles for 7000/8000 dr with pri‐ vate bathroom.И ′α′ ′ ″

ぉKッ ′ ″αr・ θ895-

1f the nanle rings a bell, it's pl・ Obably be‐ 、 vater are la―

belled`Zaros'.Known for its spring watcr

and bottling plant, Zaros(46km south of lrakli。 )iS a traditiOnal tOWn Where many nlen and wornen still wcar black. VariOus cxcavations in the region indicate that the

Minoans and the Ronlans settlcd hcre,lured by the abundant supply Of fiesh wate■

The

′イイ “ ofthe village has リat the eastern end iuxurious apartinents lor 8000 dr. 」 K7″ α n:`s′ α 」 ″′ α″′ n the rnain street, scrves , 。 hearty〈 reck fare and 7レ ッ ι′ ″αD′ ″′ ′ rα fea―

spring water fiom Zaros also supplied the great Ronlan capital of Gortyn. Byzantine rnonasteries are nearly as abundant as the

tures vegetarlan lood.

of Vrondisi,Agios Nikolaos,Odigitria,

7′

:〕

Ce

ng There&Away

・rhere iS no public transport to Arvi.With a 4ヽ VE)the 10krn coastal dirt rOad be"een Iく

leratokanlbos and Arvi is accessible.

spring、vater.lYζ Ou can visit the inonasteries

Apezano and Kardiotissa;Hotel ldi has nlll details on treks to all the n10nasteries.

Orientation&Inforrnatlon The business end ofZarOs is atthe sOuthern entrance ofthe tovvn.The pOst Ofice and a

Central lraklio

supernlarket are across the street fiorn the police station.There's no()T:E,but there is

Region

a phone in the minimarket,next to Libcro pub.You can change mOney atthe Hotelldi.

Although nlosttravellers zip thrOugh the re― gion that lies between lrakliO and the sOuth

Things to See&lDo ´

coast,several sights inake it well wOrth a stop,but you need your own、 vheels tO ex_

I'he Zaros bott:ing p:ant is on the northern

plore the region.Mount Psiloritis lies to the

end oftown pastthe HOtelldi.′ They usually 、′ you tO take a 100k atthe packag_ ill allo、 ′ ing and bottling operations inside.A sho:t

west in the Rethyrnno region; its eastern slopes taper do、 vn to a series Of high

distance belore the bottling plant you will corne to a lovely shady park,'Votonlos,、 ′ ith

plateaux and deep caves.1｀ he lnOst farnOus

a snlall lake and a children's playground, ′ 、 、 hich nlakes a great picnic stOp. If yOu

cave is the ldcon Andron、 vhich was either thc bil■ hplace Of Zeus Or his playground as

have your own wheels the 13yzantine

a young child,depending On which iegend

nlonasteries and traditiOnal villages that are

you believe.There's nOt rnuch to see in thc

tucked a、 vay in the hills are、vOrth exp10r_

cave and there are no paved rOads, but if you have a motorcycle or a jeep,take the

ing. Take the rOad that leads west fro:Υ

mlain road south'om Anogia and follow

Zaros and you'Ii sec a sign directing you tO Moni Agios Nikolaos、 vhich is atthe inouth

the signs to the cave.

of the Agios Nikolaos Gorge. The

The main roads leading sOuth iOm lrak―

inonaster)′

l

Still houses several rnOnks and

200 Centrai:rak:io― Arhanes

the church contains sonle 14th‐ century paintings.A few kllonletres beyond Moni

´ 「 he fell:ile basin ofArhanes has been settled

since the Ne。 lithic period.´ I｀ he ancientヽ 4in―

is notable for its 15th― century Venetian

Oans built a grand palace that was an ad‐ ministrative centre for the entire Arhanes

Agios Nikolaos is the Moni Vrondisi which fountain.´ he inonastery also has a church

basin.´ he palace was destroyed,rebuilt and

with excellent examples Of early 14th―

destroyed again along with the other great

century fiescoes nrom the cretan sch。 。1。 f Fresco lPainting.´ he drive to the monaster‐

Minoan palaces.´

「

I｀

I｀

I｀

he toヽ

vn canlc back to life

under the Myceaneans flourishing until the

ies and beyond to the traditional mountain

Dorian conquest of Crete in l100 BC.

villages of Viorizia and Kamares is particu―

Today Arhanes is a quiet and obviously

larly scenic.´ racks along the way lead up

prOsperOus tOwn with ineticulousiy restored 。ld houses and neatly laid out squares.´「 he

I｀

into the mountains if you are in for further

Routc runs through the Zaros region pro‐

nlain reason to visit is for the excellent archacological ■luscunl but there is no

viding well‐ nlarked hiking trails.

place to stay in to、 vn.

Places to Stay(&Eat

Orientation&Inforrnation ´

explorations. The E4 European(Cliinbing

A couple of kilometres outside the town, ″αノ ′ χJノ 5′ , ι Iο た′I″′r・ 3ノ Jθ ′ ,、 ヵ ″ο S@ο た″ 江gり iS SuFOunded by treeS

"わ and greencry and nlakes for a rcstfll escape flom thc crowds along the coast.′ he pleas‐ I｀

ant,traditional roorns cost 9300/13,700 dr for singles/doubles with air‐ con,including buffiet breakfast.1,he hotel is open all year

and has a swiinnling poOl,tennis couns,and oppoltunities to hike in the surrounding ０コ︼く堅

hills.Close to the town centre is the honley ,″ ″οs κι″″ω r奮 ,ノ 3,ク .Irs run by

friendly Katarina who has decorated her cosy establishrnent with a display of([〕

retan

´ rhe crais, weaving, baskets and pottery. large studios cost 6000 dr and includc a copious traditional Cretan breakfast. TrOut iS the SpeCialiけ atン ♭″″οS,a Su‐ perb ish restaurant af■ liated with thc llotel ldi.TriOu'1l see thc trOut gliding thrOugh a

Iヽ

he bus stop is across thc street nrorn a re_

stored church.uphili nrom the bus stop and a right lork is another snlali square.Signs dircct yOu tO thc pOst Ofnce,and thc C)´ 「 E is

in a pastel building next to a taxi stand. Nearby is a small park surrounded by tav‐ ernas and a Creta lBank_

Things to See Only SCrapS Ofthe palaCC(SignpOSted iOm the main road)remain but the Archaeo‐ !ogical Museunl of Arhanes has sorne in― teresting inds fionl the archaeological ex‐

cavations that have been taking place for the last three decades in nurnerous sitcs around the region.1‐ hc exhibits, including

iarnakes(comns)and musical instruments

iom Fourni and the dagger iom Anemo‐ spilia,are well displayed and extremely in‐

formative.The museum is opcn 8.30 am to

huge flesh water reserve so you'1l kno、 v

2.30 pm Wednesday to Monday and adnlis‐

they're l← esh.It's open ll anl to rnidnight

slon is 500dr.

daily lヒ

om March to October and weckends

only iom Novemberto February.

Getting There&Away ´

「 here arc t、 vo

an‐ ern。 。n buses daily nrorn

lrakliO(l hOur,900 dr)・

ARHANES 081 o pop 4000 Known for its excenent wine,Arhanes,

ti「

16kΠl south of lraklio,lies in the hean of Crete's principal grape‐ producing region.

Getting There&Away There are buses hourly iom iraklio(30 minutes,340 dr).

AROUND ARHANES Vlathypetro Vil:a is Skrn south of Arhanes,

om the town.Dating iom 1600 BC the Minoan vina was proba―

and well‐ signposted■

bly the homc ofa prosperous Minoan noble. ´ 「 he villa complex included storerooms, 、 vhere、vine and oil presses,a weaving looin

No威 h‐ Eastern Coast― Malia 201

Murder in the Tlenlple

velopment. A concrete 、 va1l of hotels,

Human sacrifice is not co:TlmOnly assOci―

schnitzel outlets,and tacky souvenir shOps lines every strctch of sandy beach here. ´

ated With the peace‐ loving Minoans but

hcre's not much here fOr individual trav― cllers since the hotels deal alnlost cxclu‐ I｀

the eVidence found at the site of Anemo― Spilia suggested irrefutably otherwise. A SirnPle three―

sively 、 vith package tOur OperatOrs whO

room tenlple was excavated

block― book hotel roorns many inonths in advancc.1｀ he prices lor individual travellers

in the 1980s.To the irnmense surprise of the scientists they flound a y()ung nlan placed on an altar and trussed,with a huge

are relatively steep cOnlpared with the dis― counts package tOurists receive and the ser‐

sacrificial dagger amid the bOnes.The re―

vicc is likely to be indifferent for those

mains oft、″o other skeletOns nearby which

without the clout of a tour operator behind

were probably those of a priestess and an

them.The main centres here are Hersonis― sos and Malia.´ rheヽ4inoan palace at Malia

assistant,seenled to inclicate that the b()y's

death was part of a sacrificial rite.The sac_

is the only site of cultural intcrest_

rifice was probably made lust as the 1700 B(: earthquake began, in a desperate at―

MALlA The township ofMalia is a highly commer‐ cialised resoi that dcveloped in the 1970s

temptto appease the gOds The siteis now fenced but the scenic drive there nlakes it

because of its 10ng sandy beach. It's

worthwh‖ e.

立 立 立 巾 鰤 凸 鰤 立 立 鰤 立 聰

crowded and noisy but there's plenty to do and it's、 ′ ithin easy reach of the fascinating Minoan Palace of Malia.

verc discovered.Although the and a kiln ヽ

Orientation&Inforrnation

doors to the roorns with the、 vine press and oil press are locked yOu can catch a glinlpse

The main road iom lraklio runs through

、 vindows.

of the tools through the barred ´

he site is open 8.30 am to 3 prn daily and there is no adrnission charge.・ here is n。 public transport to the site although sevcral travel agencies in lraklio include a visit as I｀

I｀

part of their tour itinerary.

Frorn the bus stop in Arhanes lollo、

Malia and divides the town into t、 vo parts.

The north side of the road is packed with hotels, restaurants, travel agencies and nightlit,while the sOuth side Of thc rOad lcads up to the old town_1｀ he ipost ofice is nearthe nlain road at 28(:)ctovrou 2 and the

「 :E is uphill about 500nl and signposted

()´

v

ioin the old tOwn.There are plenty Of

tombS' forrn the nlost extenslve Minoan

places to change nloney on the main road. Charlie's Travel(官 33834ノ iS a g00d SOurCe of information and sells excursiOns tO all

cenletery in the isiand and date nronl about

destinations on the island.

signs up a steep trail to theヽ 4inoan burial

grounds at Fourni.The round stone`beehive

2500 BC. One of the tonlbs containcd the remains of aヽ 4inoan noble、 vonnan vvhose jewenev is on display in the Archacologic―

al Museum ofiraklio.

No:咸 :h‐ Eastern

Coast

Piaces to Stay&Eat

´

rhere are very few r。 。nls available for in_ dividual travellers.()ne Ofthe few reasOn´ ably priCed plaCeS iS Sο ′αRι ″′Rο ο ″S 7〃 which has doubles b 8000 d「 r● 3′ ∂ At the top of the old to、 vn is `S`ο ″ s P′ ο

И′α″ ″ι ′ ″な r・ 333θ の with studiosお 10,000 dr.You could also try′

r

4′ igο rl● 3′

636り right On the inain rOad WhiCh haS dOu―

Ever since the national road along the north

blcsお r12,000 di EsP″ αr・

Jノ

θ∂の in

the

coast opened in 1972, the coast between

old to、vn has doubles for 15,000 dr and stu‐

iraklio and ヽ 4alia has scen a nrenzy of de―

dios lor 20,000 dr.

202 Noith‐ Eastern(Coast― Pa:ace of Ma:ia

AAass Tourism Although none of the resorts along the no"h― eastern coast vvould win any beauty contests, 卜 lersonissos and Malia set a new standard of dreariness ln both resorts,the local POpulation has retreated to p:easantlittie hili villages behind the nlain rOad and left the lovver beachfrOnt

towns toヽ ″ailovv in sieazy cornrnercia:isrn.Fronn frozen fish in the seaside restaurants to inl― ported'Cretan'cerarnics and nlachine‐ nlade weavings in souvenir shoPS,nothing is authen‐ tic.Unlike the rest of the island,the r、

lusic in bars and tavernas is either vvestern or the most

VVesternised Greek music available.Don't understand Greek letters?Don't worry You、 ″on't see a single one in Hersonissos and Mana.A1l signs are in Latin letters.Fish&chip stands, cafes with nannes like'Cheers'and`t」 nion Jack',video bars playing British sitcorns seern de― signed tO shie!d visitOrs frOrn the horrible realisation that they are actua‖ y in a foreign coun‐ try.

Although Hersonissos and AAa!ia are often considered identica! examples of atrocious overdevelopnlent,there are subtle differences betl、 ′ een the two resorts. 3oth places chase bargain‐ hunting package tourists but Hersonissos has a few luxury hote:s on the outskirts. The crovvds are young in both tovvns butin Malia,you'￨l feel decrepit if you're over 22.Both places assurne that yOu wi:l cOnsunne cOpiOus quantities Of alcOhOl.:n HersOnissOs yOu drink to lget drunk,dance and wake up with a stranger while at Malia you drink to iget drunk,fa‖

dc)wn and wake up on the pavernent. lf that sounds good tO yOu,you know where to go, but try to visit Crete someday

凸 ↓ 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 ↓ ↓ ↓ 凸 凸

０ コ 〓く 騒

Curiously enough you get better lndian food in Malia than you do Greck food.D`‐ gЙ ′2′ I“ ″ ′ ′ ′ αiS Offthe main rOad and haS eXCellent ChiCken rnaSala.(DtherWiSe try Rο ″α″′ ′ α″r in the。 ld ″力αι′R′ s′α ′ `Rα “ town which has a good selection of Asian food.

archaeologists and is being continued by French archaeologists.13ecause the ground plan has been well‐ preserved, it's an easy

site to comprehend.The site(● 31597)is open 8.30 anl to 3 pnl′ uesday to Sunday. Admission is 800 dL Any bus gOing to/■ om lrakliO a10ng the nOmh cOast can drOp yOu I｀

Entertainment Currently the most popular discos are Dお iFVα sЙ

ite artefacts iom Minoan society were found.Excavation began in 1915 by Greck

cο

at the site.

and(]′ ο ′ハ √ ′ ″

thc summer raves are held “ in the `.:During ncarby stadium about every神 o weeks.

Entrance to the ruins is from the VVest

Getting There&Away

and at the extreme southern end you'11

There are buses'om lraklio every 30■ utes(l hour,750 dr).

Exploring the Site Court. Iiead south through the Magazines

lin‐

PALAC■ OF MALIA Mdλ tα The Palace of Malia, 3krn east of Malia, 、 vas built at about the sanle tirne as the two other great Minoan palaces at Phacstos and Knossos.´ 「 hc irst palace was built around

corne to the cight circular pits which arch‐

acO10gists think were grain silos. ・riO the east of the pits is the nlain entrance to the

palace which leads to the southern end of the Central Court.Moving north― cast you'11 conle to the Kernos Stone, a disc with 24 holes around its edge.Archaeologists have yet to asceitain its function,but it probably

1900 1BC and rebuilt after the earthquake of

had a religious purpose.Attacent is the

1700 BC. What you sec is the renlains of

Crand Staircase which imight have led to a

the newer palace fiorn which nlany exquis‐

shrine. rlo the nOrth is the Pi:!ar corridOr

′

No:th‐ Eastern(Coast― IHersonissos 203

PALACE OF MALIA

◇ 0

う

,0/″

―

1 1

卜」

+

２

C)blique Building

 

函“

「

Ｊ

Hソ lx)style Ha‖ ４ 日日 ・

︰ ︰ ︰ ︰ ︰ ︰ ︱

6 Royal Apa“ ments 8 tuira1 8asin い“

い一

︱

9 Aκ hives 10 Room of the Panther 12 CEnd Stai「 cお e

15 Pilar Crypt

16 Maga2ineS 17 Pi‖ ar Co「 ndor

18Gは nd

Sta rase

19 Kemos Stone

20Gは in

○

with interconnecting roorns and next to it is the Pi:!ar Cり pt with theヽ4inoan double‐ axe ・ he im‐ syrnbol engraved on the plllars. 「

pressive Centra:Courtis 48m long and 22in wide and contains renlains of the Minoan columns.Notice the pit in the exact centre of the courtyard,which nlay have been an

S10s

21 South Entrance

Royal Apattments with a Lustral Basin.At the north end ofthe central courtis the Hy‐ posty:e Ha::with benches on the side indi‐ cating that it inay have served as a kind Of council chambe■ ()ther roOrns include the

archives room in which tablets containing

Linear A script were lound.On your way

altar.

out through the no■ lh entrance notice the

At the north end ofthe west side ofthe coulll is thc Loggia, which 、 vas probably used for cerenlonial purposes.Next to the Loggia is the Roorn of the Pantherin which a17th― century― lBC stone axe shaped like a ′ panther was found. 1ヽ Iorth― 、 、 est are the

pithol in the North Court.

H■ RSONISSOS

■ :P0897 Iersonissos,26km east oflraklio,began its 1‐

days as a srna11■ shing village On a hill,but

204 North‐ Eastern Coast― Hersonissos

those days are long past.Itis nOw a nlccca to package tourisnl with a long coastal strip

of neon― lit restaurants and 100k_alike hotels.・ 「

he beach is sandy but packed with

With ainlost 400 ne、 vly built l)unga10ws, g′ the vast Rοッα ′Zα′ ′И〃α

力χ2′

r●

25θ 25,

′″α ″ g@α ′ 66イ ,“ 留」 ル″″ ″″α Zgリ

is more like a inetropolis on the sea than a

lounge chairs and unlbrellas. There is al‐

village.It has t、 vo children's pools,two out―

ways sornething to do in Hersonissos;there

door pools, an indoOr pool, tennis cOunls, water sports, a children's playground, ■t‐

are plenty of excursiOns tO all parts Of the

isiand and an action― packed nightclub scene.

ness centre,volleyball and archery. Thc rnost outstanding feature is the Tha―

Orientation&Inforrnation

equipped water v/Onderland in (:〕

The coastal road ionl lraklio to Agios Nikolaos runs through a town called El

Rooms start at 80,000 dr lor a simple bun‐

lasso Centre, the most modern and best―

Venizelou.Most travel agencies,banks and ′ services are 10cated a10ng this rOad. he OTE ofice is north of EI Venizelou and the post ofnce is in the centre of town on[)i_ I｀

geni Akriti.´ 「 here is also a beachう ront road

of taverns,hoteis and nightclubs.1｀ here is no tourist ofice but I‐ Icl・ Ines Rent a Bike

32271,is a good source ofinfOrmatiOn. Uphill iOm the main rOad is the village

(●

ofKoutoulafari which is touristy but retains

some of the atrnosphere Of a traditiOnal village.

Places to Stay&Eat

rete.

galow and go up to 250,000 dr for a suite ´ with a private p001. 「 heir Web site is at

wwwaldemangi

There are plenty of restaurants in Her― sonissos serving`Cretan food'but none are FnOre than inediOCre.For a decentineal you would be better off eatingi at the restaurant of a luxury hotel.

Entertain!ment Most people corne to I― lersonissos for the nightlife.As soon asthe sun goes do、 vn,the bars■ 1l up,the discos crank up their vol‐ urne and the whole resortturns into one vast party.

Most hotels only deal、 vith groups,but yOu could try И α ′ ′ ″s∠″″′ ′ ″ お r● 2イ 56θ リ v′ hich has studiOs 10r 10,000 `″ dr and apart― `″ rnents for 12,000 dr. I′ を ″′ ssο s ffο ′ ′ ′

year tO yeat yOu can usually rely On the fr G7“ b and 4′ ′Dα ″ たon EI Venizelou and (:]α ″′ ′ ο′On the beachnrOnt road.

r● 2356∂ vie、 vs, and

Getting There&Away

=sο

ソhas rooms with balconies,sea―

air‐ conditioning lor 30,000 di On the watcriont is Pα ′ ″ απο′ ι ′r● 22 `′ イ∂〃 with doublesお r12,000 di

Although the popular places change fiorn `′

There are buses nrom lraklio every 30 min‐

utes(45 minutes,600 dr).

Lassithi HiGHLIGHTS

Crete's eastenll■ ost pretcture,Lassithi re― ceives fal・ lewer visitors than the rest Of the isiand.′

I｀

VValking through the patchwork quilt

he southern cOast extends fiom the

village ofiMyrtos in theゝ ′ esttO the commer―

of the Lassithi Plateau

cial centrc of lcrapetra and beyond to the lovely and untOuched bcaches of Xerokarn‐ bos and Kato Zakros.The centre Ofthe no h coast is Sitia 、 vith the 10vely palm‐ lined

Relax:ng on the winds、 、 ′ ept beach of

Xerokambos Exploring the lVlinoan palace on the

beach at Kato Zakros

beach ofValin the far east.The fenile regiOn of the Lassithi Plateau in the west provides wonder」 「 11、valks through qulet villages and ieldsto I)ikteOn Cave where Zeus was bol■ 1.

ArchaeoloW butt will enjoy the Palace Of Zakros,an evocat c Minoan site in the cast nextto Kato Zakros Bcach.

AG10S NIKOLAOS Aぃ

os Ntκ 6λ αoS

t'0841 0 postcode 721 00 o pop 9000

Agios Nikolaos,or`Ag Nik'as it's fanlil‐ iarly knOwn,emerged as a pott forthe city―

state of Lato(see Ancient L試 o latcr in the chapter)in the early Hcnenic years when it was knoⅥ 7n as Lato― by‐ Iく almara.The har―

bour assurned impOrtance in the(〕

reco‐

Roman period aier the Roinans put an end to the piracy that had plagued the n。 ■hern coast. ´ 「 he toν vn

凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸 凸

continued to nourish in the

carly Christian iyears and in the 8th or 9th

century the small E〕

was iater named capital of the Lassithi re‐

yzantine Church ofAgio

gion.In the carly 1960s, it becarne a chic

Nikolaos was bullt. やVhen the Venetians bOught Crete in the

hideavゾ ay for the likes of Jules I:)assin and

1 3th century,the Castel Mirabello was built on a hill overiooking the sea and a settle―

package tourists、 vere arriving in lorce.

ment arose below.The Castel was dainaged in the earthquake of 1303 and was burned

but the heart of the to、

VValt E)isney. 13y the end of the decade ´ he beaches outside town are lllediocre I｀

vn is an ilTesistibly

fetching conjunction oflake and harbour.

Even though the waterside has been

by pirates in 1537,bclore being rebuilt ac―

shamelessly overbuilt with bars,shops and restaurants,the natural beauty ofthe setting hasn't been entirely extinguished.

0『 ientation l｀

he to、 vn centre is Plateia lヽ

4enizelou,1 50in

up sofias venizelou nrorn the bus statiOn. The most interesting part ofto、 vn is around

loulisnleni Lakc, 100rn the picturesque ｀ ノ north of Plateia｀ И enizelou.Frorn the lake,

century by ifleeing rebels fionl Sfakia and it

205

ｒ＞い一一 一 ■一   一一一   ・

cording to plans,onl the famOus nlilitary 4enetians architect Sarnmicheli.When theヽ し were forced to abandon the castel tO the ´ 「 urks in 1645 they blew it up,leaving it in ruins.・ here's no trace of the Venetian Oc― 「 cupation except the narne they gave tO the surrounding gulf― ヽ4irabello or`beautiful view'. Thc town was resettled in the:nid‐ 19th

206 Lassithi― Agios Nikolaos

LASSITHI R■ G10N

＼、 Ｌ述ヽ 部ヽ

tis

い﹄ 国 ヽＯ

ヽ﹃ ∽ ヽ ≧ く ヽ “ ヽｎ

Ｌ Ｏ ヽい ﹃

／ン

・ 一 ・      一 一 一 一 一 一 調・

︱ ユ Ⅲ ＝ 引 ＝円＝ ＝ ＝ ｕ