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CORONADO Knight of Pueblos and Plains

HERBERT E. BOLTON

THE UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICQ PRESS

ALBUQUERQUE

© The University of New Mexico Press, 1949. All rights reserved. 1964 Edition. Reprinted 1971

First published in 1949 by the University of New Mexico Press as Volume I

of the Coronado Cuarto Centennial Publications, 1540-1940, edited by George P. Hammond, with the title Coronado on the Turquoise Tratl, Knight of Pueblos and Plains. Reprinted in 1949 jointly with Whittlesey House, a division of the McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., under the title Coronado, Knight of Pueblos and Plains. Reprinted in 1964 by the Univer. sity of New Mexico Press, simultaneously in clothbound and paperbound editions. Manufactured in the United States of America by the University of New Mexico Printing Plant, Albuquerque. Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 64-17854.

Dedicated to all my good companions on the

trail and to my many students who vicariously have accompanied me in my ramblings

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PREFACE This book starts off with a conscious falsification, not even calling the principal character by his right name. Arciniegas, in his delightful volume called The Knight of El Dorado, confesses to the same crime and explains how it happened. “Throughout the whole conquest of America one never knows who is who. Names are always

being changed about... . Sebastian de Belalcazar, for example, was named Sebastian Moyano, but historians wrote reams of paper, saying, some, that he was called Belalcazar, and others, Benalcazar. As a matter of fact, he was probably not a Moyano at all but a Garcia.

Let the reader go to Quito, Popayan, or Cali, however, and tell residents that the founder of their city was named Garcia Moyano, and they will laugh in his face, if they do not stone him to death.”

In the same way, the famous pioneer of Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas was Francisco Vazquez de Coronado,

but few persons now living in these regions would recognize him under his correct name of Vazquez, and they might assassinate a

writer who should insist on being accurate on that point. Not wishing the crown of martyrdom, even for the sake of veracity, I shall conform to well established custom and call him Coronado. The case is similar with Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, Coronado’s ablest lieutenant and discoverer of Grand Canyon. By his contemporaries he was called Lopez, but in this gringo country he is known as Cardenas, and so he is designated here.

To catch the significance of Coronado he must be seen in perspective. In 1848 gold was discovered at Sutter’s Mill in California. The news got out, and within a year fifty thousand Argonauts from all parts of the world found their way to the Promised

Land, hoping to make their fortunes, go back home, and live happily ever afterward. In the mines not one in a thousand struck it rich, and the rank and file scarcely averaged a dollar a day for their toul. The California Gold Rush was a typical episode which had been repeated innumerable times in America since Columbus’ celebrated voyage. In essence it was not greatly different from the

remarkable treasure hunts which swept over a large part of the Western Hemisphere in the second quarter of the sixteenth century. We justly glorify our Forty-niners, but we have customarily applied the term “‘wild-goose chases’”’ to earlier quests for the Golden Fleece.

One of these was the Coronado Expedition, whose four hundredth anniversary we have recently commemorated.

PREFACE

Set in motion by a story not altogether unlike that of Marshall’s discovery in California, Coronado and his followers made known the great Southwest and contributed toward its permanent settle-

ment. Leaving Mexico City in 1540 with some three hundred Spaniards and a large body of Indian allies, Don Francisco went west to the Pacific Ocean, ascended the coast through the regions now known as Sinaloa and Sonora, explored Arizona and New Mexico, marched out upon the buffalo-covered plains of Texas, discovered Tule and Palo Duro canyons, turned north through Oklahoma, entered Kansas, reached the Arkansas River near the site of Ford (so designated for the historic crossing there), and followed the stream to Quivira, a name then given to the Wichita Indian settlements between the Arkansas and Smoky Hill rivers. Meanwhile Alarcén with part of Coronado’s force ascended the Gulf of California and explored the lower Colorado River. Incidentally, he reached California two years ahead of Cabrillo, the reputed discoverer. First among Europeans, Coronado and his men saw and described on the basis of eye-witness information the Zuni Pueblos, the Hopi Pueblos, Colorado River, Grand Canyon, Gila River, and the giant

Yuman tribes along the River of the Firebrands. Farther east they were first to see Acoma, “the Sky City,” the upper Rio Grande, the Tiguex Pueblos along its banks, snow-covered Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Pecos River, Canadian River, the vast herds of buffaloes, and the great canyons of the Staked Plains, as later they were miscalled by the Anglo-American pioneers. ‘They first explored

the Texas Panhandle, first crossed Oklahoma, the Cimarron and Arkansas rivers, traversed eastern Kansas, and became acquainted with the tattooed Wichitas. These helmet-crested Spanish horsemen saw and made known to the world most of the places visited today

by myriad travelers in the region now known in the United States as the Far Southwest. Coronado thus performed in North America a feat of adventure

and discovery comparable to what was done in South America in the same period by Pizarro, Almagro, Belalcazar, or Quesada, and in Middle America by Cortés, Guzman, or Alvarado. He converted the old trail up the West Coast Corridor of Mexico into a wellknown road which is still in use as an automobile highway and as the route of the Southern Pacific Railroad. Historical tradition in the vast area up the Corridor, and all the way from California to Kansas, runs back four centuries to the spectacular expedition made by Don Francisco and his companions. The impress left by the young Spaniard on the history and lore of the Southwest is patent and still growing. Geographical designa-

PREFACE

tions given or first made known to Europeans by Don Francisco and his men are found all over the map. Names reminiscent of his adventure have been assigned to a multitude of places, objects, institutions, and organizations. We find among Arizona place names

Alarcon Terrace, Cardenas Butte, Coronado Park, Conquistador Aisle, Coronado International Memorial Park, Coronado Mesa, Coronado Mountains, Coronado Summit, Coronado Trail (U. S. Highway No. 666), El Despoblado, Fray Marcos Mountain, Padilla Mesa, Tovar Mesa, and Tobar Terrace. In New Mexico, besides the names of many Indian pueblos first made known by Coronado, there are Cibola National Forest, Coronado State Monument, and Gran Quivira National Monument. In Kansas we encounter Eldorado and Coronado Heights. Coronado City and Coronado Beach in California, it may be noted, get their names not from Coronado the explorer, but from nearby islands whose designation alludes to certain Christian martyrs. Besides geographical names commemorating Coronado’s exploit, the Southwest has Coronado motor courts, schools, and theaters, and at least one Coronado cattle ranch. ‘There is a Coronado hotel as far east as Philadelphia. Among commercial and industrial enterprises one finds a Coronado Carbon Company, a Coronado Petroleum Company, and a Coronado Exploration Com-

pany, whose business is that of prospecting for oil. Somewhat more highbrow than any of the foregoing memorials to the explorer is the historical organization called the Quuivira Society. In Omaha even the bon ton bow to the famous general. There a leading social group styled Ak-Sar-Ben each year commemorates the Coronado Expedition to Quivira, in whose tradition Nebraska claims a share. In 1940 several of the Southwestern states conducted Coronado celebrations in honor of the four hundredth anniversary of the expedition, conspicuous among them being the one held in New Mexico. The legislature of that commonwealth formed a Coronado Cuarto Centennial Commission which carried out an elaborate and state-wide celebration. As a part of the Coronado memorial the University of New Mexico is issuing a series

of historical volumes called the Coronado Cuarto Centennial Publications.

The Coronado Expedition shares in the tradition of Mexico as well as of the United States. Don Francisco Vazquez de Coronado was a conspicuous and honored figure at the court of Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. His wife, Dofia Beatriz de Estrada, was the wealthiest heiress in the Mexico of her day, notable for her piety and charity, and her fame is recorded on her tomb in one of North America’s most historic churches. As governor of Nueva

Galicia, which then embraced a vast area west of the capital,

PREFACE

Coronado occupies many pages in the annals of Guadalajara, Com-

postela, Tepic, and Culiacan, those old cities which charm every visitor within their gates. His spectacular expedition is a chapter in the history of the Mexican states of Jalisco, Nayarit, Sinaloa, and Sonora, as well as of our great Southwest. Thus he is an immortal

link between the republics of Mexico and the United States. To symbolize this early historic bond the governments of Mexico and the United States have plans for setting aside and developing an area on the Sonora-Arizona boundary line as a Coronado International Monument.

Whatever merit may be claimed for this book must be left to others than myself. But it may be appropriate to say that besides consulting extensive manuscript sources that hitherto have been used little or not at all, I have made a more detailed reconnoissance of Coronado’s route of travel and the scenes of his adventure than any of my predecessors, and thereby have been able to vivify the episode, to clear up many obscure or disputed points, and to offer new interpretations.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. Ex Dorapo 1 II. Four Raccrep Castaways 8 Ill. Mernpoza DrEciIpEs To GAMBLE 13 IV. Fray Marcos SEEKS THE SEVEN CITIES 22

V. RIvaAL CONQUERORS 40 VI. A CipoLa ExprpiTion Is LAUNCHED 49 VII. RENDEZvOoUS AT COMPOSTELA 63

VIII. Forwarp To CULIACAN 81 IX. WITH THE VANGUARD 95

X. Cisoia Lies at Hanp! 112 XI. Capture or HAwikuH 119

XII. Hopis anD GRAND CANYON 133

XIII. Scenes SHIFT 143

XIV. ALARCON ON COLORADO RIVER 153

XV. Dtaz SEEKS ALARCON 169 XVI. ALVARADO AND THE GOLDEN BRACELET 179

XVI. WINTER QUARTERS ON THE RIO GRANDE 192

XVII. BAtTrLe or ARENAL 201

XIX. SrEGE OF Mono 216 XX. Ho ror THE LAND OF THE JTurRkK! 231

XXI. MArcH TO THE PLAINS 238

TABLE OF CONTENTS

XXII. “NotTHinc BuT CATTLE AND SKY” 249

XXII. Facinc Asout 261 APPROACHES 270 XXIV. THe Army Returns To TIGUEX AND A RIVAL

XXV. Quivira 282

XXVI. REUNION IN PUEBLO LAND 905

XXVII. REBELLION IN SONORA 917 XXVIII. A SApDLE GiRTH BREAKS 920 XXIX. Friars REMAIN IN THE NEw Lanp 995

XXX. Back TRAck to Mexico 343 XXXII. Later NEwS FROM THE NorTH 355

XXXII. Gossips anp LAWYERS 363 XXXII. CArpenas TAKES THE Count 382

XXXIV. IN PERSPECTIVE 395 XXXV. RETURN TO PUEBLO LAND 410 APPENDIX—PUEBLO SOCIETY 413

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 423 RETRACING THE TRAIL 42”

REFERENCES 429

BIBLIOGRAPHY 451

Lost DOCUMENTS 472

INDEX 477 MAPS

CORONADO IN PUEBLO LAND Preceding page 1

‘THE BARRANCAS 281 CORONADO AND His CONTEMPORARIES End of Volume

CORONADO | KNIGHT OF PUEBLOS & PLAINS

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