Cities of the World. Europe and Middle East [Volume 3, 6 ed.]

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ISSN 0889-2741

SIXTH EDITION

A Compilation of Current Information on Cultural, Geographic, and Political Conditions in the Countries and Cities of Six Continents, Based on the Department of State’s “Post Reports” In Four Volumes

Volume 3: Europe and the Mediterranean Middle East

Cumulative Index Volumes 1-4

CITIES OF THE WORLD SIXTH EDITION Karen Ellicott, Editor

Project Editor Kathleen Droste Permissions Lori Hines

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CONTENTS PREFACE ...........................................................ix ALBANIA ............................................................3 Tiranë ...............................................................3 Durrës ..............................................................4 Shkodër ............................................................4 Other Cities......................................................5 Country Profile ................................................6 ANDORRA.........................................................11 Andorra la Vella ............................................11 Country Profile ..............................................12 AUSTRIA...........................................................15 Vienna ............................................................15 Salzburg .........................................................20 Innsbruck .......................................................21 Graz ................................................................22 Linz.................................................................22 Other Cities....................................................23 Country Profile ..............................................24 BELARUS..........................................................31 Minsk..............................................................31 Other Cities....................................................33 Country Profile ..............................................34 BELGIUM .........................................................41 Brussels..........................................................41 Antwerp..........................................................47 Liège ...............................................................47 Ghent..............................................................48 Bruges ............................................................49 Other Cities....................................................50 Country Profile ..............................................52 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA.......................57 Sarajevo..........................................................57 Other Cities....................................................59 Country Profile ..............................................59 BULGARIA........................................................63 Sofia................................................................64 Plovdiv............................................................67 Varna..............................................................67 Other Cities....................................................67 Country Profile ..............................................68

CROATIA .......................................................... 75 Zagreb ............................................................ 75 Other Cities ................................................... 82 Country Profile .............................................. 83 CYPRUS ............................................................ 91 Nicosia ........................................................... 91 Limassol......................................................... 96 Other Cities ................................................... 97 Country Profile .............................................. 97 CZECH REPUBLIC........................................ 103 Prague.......................................................... 103 Brno ............................................................. 108 Ostrava ........................................................ 108 Plzeð ............................................................ 108 Olomouc ....................................................... 109 Other Cities ................................................. 109 Country Profile ............................................ 110 DENMARK...................................................... 117 Copenhagen ................................................. 117 Århus ........................................................... 120 Odense ......................................................... 120 Other Cities ................................................. 121 Country Profile ............................................ 122 ESTONIA ........................................................ 127 Tallinn ......................................................... 127 Other Cities ................................................. 132 Country Profile ............................................ 133 FINLAND........................................................ 143 Helsinki ....................................................... 143 Tampere....................................................... 146 Turku ........................................................... 148 Other Cities ................................................. 148 Country Profile ............................................ 149 FRANCE.......................................................... 157 Paris ............................................................. 157 Bordeaux...................................................... 160 Marseille ...................................................... 163 Strasbourg ................................................... 164 Lyons............................................................ 166 Nice .............................................................. 167 v

Contents Nancy ........................................................... 169 Caen ............................................................. 170 Le Havre ...................................................... 170 Lille .............................................................. 170 Montpellier .................................................. 171 Nantes.......................................................... 171 Reims ........................................................... 171 Rouen ........................................................... 172 Toulon .......................................................... 172 Toulouse....................................................... 172 Other Cities ................................................. 173 Country Profile............................................ 182 GERMANY...................................................... 187 Bonn............................................................. 187 Berlin ........................................................... 190 Frankfurt..................................................... 193 Hamburg...................................................... 194 Leipzig ......................................................... 196 Munich......................................................... 198 Stuttgart ...................................................... 200 Düsseldorf.................................................... 201 Bremen ........................................................ 202 Dresden........................................................ 203 Heidelberg ................................................... 204 Cologne ........................................................ 204 Potsdam ....................................................... 205 Lübeck ......................................................... 205 Hanover ....................................................... 205 Kassel .......................................................... 206 Nuremberg .................................................. 206 Duisburg ...................................................... 206 Dortmund .................................................... 207 Aachen ......................................................... 208 Bochum ........................................................ 208 Augsburg ..................................................... 208 Other Cities ................................................. 209 Country Profile............................................ 211 GREECE ......................................................... 221 Athens.......................................................... 222 Thessaloníki ................................................ 228 Rhodes ......................................................... 232 Patras .......................................................... 233 Kavala.......................................................... 233 Other Cities ................................................. 234 Country Profile............................................ 235 HUNGARY...................................................... 243 Budapest...................................................... 243 Debrecen ...................................................... 246 Miskolc......................................................... 246 Szeged .......................................................... 247 Pécs .............................................................. 247 Gyor ............................................................. 247 Other Cities ................................................. 247 Country Profile............................................ 249 vi

Cities of the World ICELAND ........................................................255 Reykjavík .....................................................255 Akureyri .......................................................259 Other Cities..................................................259 Country Profile ............................................259 IRELAND ........................................................267 Dublin...........................................................267 Cork ..............................................................273 Limerick .......................................................274 Galway .........................................................274 Waterford .....................................................275 Other Cities..................................................275 Country Profile ............................................276 ISRAEL............................................................283 Tel Aviv ........................................................283 Jerusalem.....................................................287 Haifa.............................................................289 Other Cities..................................................289 Country Profile ............................................291 ITALY ..............................................................299 Rome.............................................................299 Florence........................................................304 Milan ............................................................306 Naples...........................................................309 Palermo ........................................................310 Genoa............................................................312 Trieste ..........................................................314 Turin.............................................................314 Bologna.........................................................316 Venice ...........................................................317 Other Cities..................................................317 Country Profile ............................................319 JORDAN ..........................................................327 Amman .........................................................327 Other Cities..................................................330 Country Profile ............................................330 LATVIA............................................................337 Riga ..............................................................337 Other Cities..................................................342 Country Profile ............................................342 LEBANON .......................................................349 Beirut ...........................................................349 Other Cities..................................................349 Country Profile ............................................350 LIECHTENSTEIN ..........................................355 Vaduz............................................................355 Other Cities..................................................356 Country Profile ............................................357 LITHUANIA ....................................................359 Vilnius ..........................................................359 Other Cities..................................................362 Country Profile ............................................362

Cities of the World LUXEMBOURG ..............................................369 Luxembourg .................................................369 Other Cities..................................................373 Country Profile ............................................373 MACEDONIA ..................................................379 Skopje ...........................................................379 Ohrid ............................................................380 Other Cities..................................................381 Country Profile ............................................381 MALTA ............................................................385 Valletta.........................................................385 Other Cities..................................................387 Country Profile ............................................388 MOLDOVA ......................................................395 Chisinau .......................................................396 Other Cities..................................................397 Country Profile ............................................398 THE NETHERLANDS....................................405 The Hague....................................................405 Amsterdam...................................................409 Rotterdam ....................................................410 Utrecht .........................................................412 Haarlem .......................................................413 Leiden...........................................................413 Maastricht....................................................413 Eindhoven ....................................................414 Groningen ....................................................415 Nijmegen ......................................................415 Other Cities..................................................415 Country Profile ............................................417 NORWAY.........................................................423 Oslo...............................................................424 Bergen ..........................................................428 Trondheim....................................................429 Stavanger .....................................................430 Tromsø..........................................................431 Kristiansand ................................................431 Other Cities..................................................432 Country Profile ............................................433 POLAND..........................................................443 Warsaw ........................................................443 Kraków .........................................................445 Poznañ..........................................................447 Ïódý ..............................................................448 Wrocïaw........................................................449 Other Cities..................................................450 Country Profile ............................................450 PORTUGAL.....................................................457 Lisbon...........................................................457 Ponta Delgada, Azores ................................461 Oporto...........................................................463 Coimbra........................................................465 Other Cities..................................................465

Contents Country Profile ............................................ 466 ROMANIA ....................................................... 473 Bucharest..................................................... 473 Braöov .......................................................... 475 Constan÷a .................................................... 475 Timiöoara..................................................... 475 Other Cities ................................................. 476 Country Profile ............................................ 478 RUSSIA ........................................................... 483 Moscow......................................................... 483 St. Petersburg.............................................. 487 Vladivostok .................................................. 491 Yekaterinburg ............................................. 494 Other Cities ................................................. 495 Country Profile ............................................ 495 SAN MARINO................................................. 505 San Marino .................................................. 505 Country Profile ............................................ 506 SERBIA AND MONTENEGRO ..................... 509 Belgrade....................................................... 509 Other Cities ................................................. 511 Country Profile ............................................ 512 SLOVAKIA...................................................... 517 Bratislava .................................................... 517 Košice ........................................................... 521 Other Cities ................................................. 521 Country Profile ............................................ 521 SLOVENIA...................................................... 527 Ljubljana...................................................... 528 Other Cities ................................................. 530 Country Profile ............................................ 530 SPAIN.............................................................. 539 Madrid ......................................................... 539 Barcelona ..................................................... 543 Seville .......................................................... 544 Bilbao ........................................................... 546 Valencia ....................................................... 547 Málaga ......................................................... 547 Saragossa..................................................... 547 Other Cities ................................................. 548 Country Profile ............................................ 551 SWEDEN......................................................... 559 Stockholm .................................................... 559 Göteborg....................................................... 564 Malmö .......................................................... 565 Uppsala........................................................ 565 Other Cities ................................................. 565 Country Profile ............................................ 566 SWITZERLAND ............................................. 573 Bern ............................................................. 573 Geneva ......................................................... 576 Zurich........................................................... 579 vii

Contents Basel ............................................................ 580 Lausanne ..................................................... 581 Winterthur .................................................. 582 Other Cities ................................................. 582 Country Profile............................................ 584 TURKEY ......................................................... 591 Ankara ......................................................... 592 Istanbul ....................................................... 596 Adana........................................................... 600 Izmir ............................................................ 602 Other Cities ................................................. 604 Country Profile............................................ 605 UKRAINE ....................................................... 617 Kiev .............................................................. 618 Kharkov ....................................................... 622 Odessa.......................................................... 623

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Cities of the World Lviv...............................................................623 Other Cities..................................................623 Country Profile ............................................625 UNITED KINGDOM.......................................633 London..........................................................633 Belfast ..........................................................638 Edinburgh ....................................................641 Birmingham .................................................644 Glasgow ........................................................644 Liverpool ......................................................644 Leeds ............................................................645 Manchester...................................................645 Cardiff ..........................................................646 Other Cities..................................................646 Country Profile ............................................648 CUMULATIVE INDEX...................................655

PREFACE Cities of the World represents a compilation of government reports and original research on the social, cultural, political, and industrial aspects of the nations and cities of the world. Most of the country profiles included here are based on official personnel briefings issued as Post Reports by the U.S. Department of State. The Post Reports are designed to acquaint embassy personnel with life in the host country. Consequently, the reports concentrate on cities in which the U.S. government has embassies or consulates. To increase coverage of other important cities, the editors have added information on a large number of cities— 31 of which are new to this editon—not reported on by the Department of State. Since the fifth edition of Cities of the World, the Department of State has issued 62 new or revised Post Reports, all of which have been incorporated into this sixth edition. Selected data in Post Reports not revised by the Department of State since the last edition of Cities of the World have been updated by the editors with revised statistics acquired through independent research. In addition, articles have been written on thirty-three countries for which no Post Report exists. Readers familiar with the fourth edition of this publication will notice that with the fifth edition the page size was enlarged to accommodate more information. This sixth edition includes new photographs selected by the Gale editors. The photographs depict scenes found in a city and countryside and, in many cases, reveal the cultural flavor of the area as well. As in the prior edition, many chapters feature a map of that country’s capital or major city, with a superimposed locator map indicating the nation’s geographic location in relation to its regional neighbors.

Volumes in This Series This series includes four volumes: • Volume 1: Africa; • Volume 2: The Western Hemisphere (exclusive of the United States); • Volume 3: Europe and the Mediterranean Middle East; • Volume 4: Asia, the Pacific, and the Asiatic Middle East. In all, this set provides coverage of over 2,000 cities in 193 countries.

Format and Arrangement of Entries Cities of the World is arranged alphabetically by country name. Its chapters are divided into two basic sections, Major Cities and Country Profile, each of these with several subdivisions. A Major City listing might comprise information on Education, Recreation, and Entertainment. Other Cities, smaller cities and towns which are designated as other than major, are discussed in brief paragraphs at the end of the Major City section. Country Profile sections are subdivided into: Geography and Climate; Population; Government; Arts, Science, Education; Commerce and Industry; Transportation; Communications; Health; Clothing and Services; Local Holidays; Recommended Reading; and Notes for Travelers. Thus, Cities of the World presents not only basic information, but also comprehensive data on local customs, political conditions, community services, and educational and commercial facilities.

Contents and Index The Contents and Index in each volume provide easy access to these reports. Listed under each country in the Contents are the cities that appear in its Major Cities section, as well as listings for the Other Cities and Country Profile sections. A Cumulative Index, combining the four individual volumes is found at the end of each volume. The Index is arranged alphabetically by city name, including listings for both major and minor cities that are mentioned in each volume; as well as by country name with names of cities indented below.

Acknowledgments The editors would like to thank the U.S. Department of State for providing copies of Post Reports to aid in the compilation of these volumes. The editors would also like to thank Adam A. Gall and Marlon C. Tussel for their editorial assistance.

Suggestions Welcome The editors invite comments and suggestions concerning Cities of the World. Please write to: Editors, Cities of the World, The Gale Group, Inc., 27500 Drake Road, Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535; fax (248) 699-8074; or call toll-free (800) 877-4253. ix

CITIES OF THE WORLD Volume 3: Europe and the Mediterranean Middle East

ALBANIA Republic of Albania

Major Cities: Tiranë, Durrës, Shkodër Other Cities: Berat, Elbasan, Gjirokastër, Korçë, Vlorë

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated January 1995. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Albania is a country in the midst of tremendous change. From 1944 until 1990, Albania was a hard-line communist state whose leaders effectively sealed the country off from the rest of the world. The fall of communism throughout Eastern Europe in 1989 led to dramatic political changes within Albania. Massive anti-government demonstrations in 1990 forced Albania’s communist leadership to make dram a t i c c o n c e s s i o n s, i n c l u d i n g renouncing its monopoly on power and agreeing to hold democratic elections. Democratic elections swept the communists from power in March 1992. Albania is now a democratic nation and is slowly opening itself to the outside world.

The country faces many daunting challenges, among them a collapsing economy, grinding poverty, and social unrest.

MAJOR CITIES Tiranë Tiranë (Tirana) is the capital of Albania and its largest city, with a population of over 245,000. Founded by a Turkish pasha in 1614, Tiranë became a crafts center with a lively bazaar. In 1920, the city was made the capital of Albania; Italianate government buildings went up in the 1930s. The general atmosphere of Tiranë is reminiscent of 19th-century European living. Most of Tiranë’s housing consists of loose-brick apartment buildings. There are many narrow streets with old adobe one-story homes between them. Most of the city’s housing is in poor condition.

Food The local food supply has been inadequate by Western standards in availability and variety; however, there have been marked improvements recently. Availability of vege-

tables and fruits is seasonal, but prices for most items are relatively low. Local salt, sugar, rice, flour, cooking oil, and other basic items are now usually available. Milk, eggs, and good quality meat are often scarce. Soft drinks, bottled water, fruit juice, several varieties of imported beer, wine, and spirits are available. There are several “supermarkets” in Tiranë but their stocks are usually quite limited. Locally produced wines and spirits are available.

Clothing You will need the same kinds of clothing worn in the Mid-Atlantic. Winters are shorter and milder, and summers are longer and hot. Local ready-to-wear clothing is not of Western standards. Albanian women usually wear skirts, trousers, or culottes, and sometimes shorts.

Supplies and Services Supplies: Western-quality toiletries, cosmetics, and soaps are expensive, and limited in supply. American cigarettes are available bu t cig ars ar e n ot. Local pipe tobacco is not to American taste.

Basic Services: D r y - c l e a n i n g i s available but generally not up to Western standards. Local shoe 3

Albania

Cities of the World centuries. Consequently, much of its an cient architecture has been destroyed. However, visitors can still view remnants of the towns ancient walls. These walls were built during various periods by the Romans, Turks, and Venetians. An amphitheater built by the Romans in the second century has also been partially excavated and is open to tourists. North of Durrës, it is possible to visit the remains of the Porta Romana, a sixth century Roman fortification. Only a small section of its brick walls and a gateway with two towers remain standing.

Reconstructed Christian church in Tirana

repair also does not meet Western standards. Dressmakers are available; however, quality material is not. Beauty parlors and barber shops are substandard in cleanliness.

Religious Activities The newly established Interdenominational Protestant Assembly holds English-language services. The callto-worship at the mosques is in Arabic, but the services are in Albanian. Masses at the Catholic and Albanian Orthodox churches are held in the Albanian language. In a few cases, Orthodox services are held in the Greek language.

Education The Tirana International School, a private nonprofit institution that opened in September 1991, offers high-quality education in English for elementary students from 5–12 years of age. The enrollment for the school has been increasing since 1991.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Tourist areas in Albania include two “museum cities”—Berat and Gjirokastër—and archaeological sites at Apollonia, Butrint, Durrës, Bylis, and Koman. There are also

4

Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

several medieval castle ruins of note.

Durrës Durrës, with a population of approximately 85,000, is located west of Tiranë and is Albania’s second largest city. The city’s origins date back to roughly 627 B.C., making Durrës one of Europe’s oldest cities. Today, it is Albania’s principal seaport. Most of Albania’s imports enter through Durrës. Several industries are located in the city. These indust r i e s m a n u f a c t u r e c i g a r e t t e s, leather products, rubber, and plastics. Durrës location on the Adriatic Sea has led to the development of a large shipbuilding industry. An extensive railway system links Durrës to Tiranë and the cities of Lezhë, Shkodër, Elbasan, and Vlorë. In 1991, Durrës was a point of departure for 18,000 Albanians who fled the country’s dismal economic and social conditions. Many of these persons sailed across the Adriatic Sea to Italy.

Recreation Although Durrës is an ancient city, it has suffered many severe earthquakes and was invaded and conquered repeatedly over the

One of Durrës primary attractions is the Archaeological Museum. This museum offers visitors an informative look at the history of the city. Each room in the museum is dedicated to a particular historical period. Prehistoric and Greek vases and coins can be viewed, along with artifacts from the Roman, Koman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Turkish periods. Outside of the museum are displays containing fragments of Greek and Roman sculpture.

Entertainment Entertainment activities within Durrës are very limited. South of the city, many visitors flock to the beautiful beaches located on the Adriatic Sea. Several hotels on the waterfront offer excellent views of the Adriatic Sea and the surrounding area. Durrës is Albania’s principal holiday resort.

Shkodër The city of Shkodër, with a population of approximately 84,000 is located in northwestern Albania on a plain surrounded by high mountains. Like Durrës Shkodër is an ancient city whose origins can be traced to the first millennium B.C. Throughout history, Shkodër has been occupied at various times by the Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Bulgars, Serbs, Turks, and Austrians. In the 19th century, the city became an important Roman Catholic religious center. Jesuits and Fr a n c i s c a n c o n v e n t s, s ch o o l s, libraries, and churches were con-

Albania

Cities of the World structed. Following the communist takeover of Albania in 1944, the city became a center of resistance to the communist campaign against religion. Many Roman Catholics still live in Shkodër today, along with a large community of Muslims and a small minority of Eastern Orthodox Christians. The city has always been one of Albania’s major cultural centers. The country’s first printing press was established in Shkodër in the 16th century. Also, Albania’s first theatrical productions were performed in the city in the 1800s. Several noted Albanian artists have lived in Shkodër, including the poet Migjemi and Kolë Idromeno, a noted painter, architect, and photographer. Shkodër is the main economic and marketing center of northern Albania. The city exports the grains, fruits, potatoes, and tobacco grown in fertile regions nearby. Several manufacturing industries are located in Shkodër. These factories produce processed foods, copper wire products, and textiles. Many of these factories are powered by a large hydroelectric plant located near the city.

Recreation Shkodër has museums and mosques that are of interest to visitors. Many museums in Shkodër are located in old houses, which give visitors a flavor for the architecture of the city. The Migjeni House Museum honors one of Albania’s famous poets and features personal mementos and manuscripts of Migjeni’s work. A n o t h e r m u s e u m , T h e Fo l k Museum, has been established in one of the city’s largest houses. The museum offers beautiful displays of regional costumes and paintings of Albanian artists Kolë Idromeno and Simon Rrota. One of the city’s principal mosques, the Mosque of Mehmet Pasha (Lead Mosque), is open to visitors. The interior of the mosque, with its grill-covered windows and beautiful frescoes, is of particular interest.

Enver Hoxha Street, one of Shkodër’s main thoroughfares, attracts many visitors. Shops on this street are adorned with displays featuring objects from all over Albania. An exhibit on Enver Hoxha Street showcases products made and used by past and present residents of the city. The products include costumes, old weapons, fine jewelry, embroidered goods, and items made of wood, reeds, and straw. For those who want to learn about the life-styles of average Shkodër residents, Enver Hoxha Street offers a valuable educational experience.

located near one of the fortress entrances, has wall paintings by Onufri himself.

OTHER CITIES

Berat has a population of about 37,000 inhabitants and is 76 miles southeast of Tirana.

A city built on the slopes of Mt. Tomorr (2400m) and surrounded by fig and olive trees, BERAT is widely known as Albania's "Museum City." It has also been called the "City of a Thousand Windows" in reference to the many large windows of the cities red-roofed houses. The history of the site dates back to the 6th century BC, when it was home to the ancient Illyrian Dasaretes tribe. In the 9th century the town was capt u r e d b y t h e B u l g a r i a n s, w h o renamed it, Beligrad (White City), from which the present name is derived. The museums, mosques, and monuments of Berat tell the stories of subsequent conquests and the will of the city to survive. The Fortress of Berat, though considerably damaged, is still one of the most magnificent historic sites. Nearly the entire population of the town was able to live within its walls during times of distress. During the 13th century, nearly 20 Christian churches and one mosque were built inside. Those that remain include the Orthodox Cathedral of Our Lady, the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St. Michael, and the Church of the Evangelists. The Church of St. Mary of Vllaherna includes 16th century mural paintings by Nikolla, son of Albania's most famous medieval painter, Onufri. The Church of St. Theodore,

Art history buffs will want to visit the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which has been meticulously restored and now houses a museum dedicated to Onufri. Works by Nikolla and other painters are also displayed, as are several icons and other religious artwork and crafts. A copy of the Berat Gospels (4th century) is here too. Points of interest in Mangalem include the Muslim quarter, the Leaden Mosque, the King's Mosque, the Bachelor's Mosque and Alveti Tekke, a small shrine where Islamic sects like the Dervishes once practiced.

The city of ELBASAN is located in central Albania on the shores of the Shkumbin River. It was founded by the Ottomans in 1466 as a military base. It has since developed as a trading center for the corn, olives, and tobacco grown near the city. Elbasan is the home of several manufacturing industries. The industries produce oil, cement, and soap. The population of Elbasan is predominantly Muslim and numbers approximately 85,000. Nestled on the eastern slope of the Gjere Mountains, GJIROKASTËR is one of southern Albania’s smaller cities. During the Ottoman Turks occupation in the early 1800s, Gjirokastër became the home of the Turkish grand vizier, Ali Pasha. Pasha’s palace, constructed in 1811, is still in existence today. The city was also the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, Albania’s communist leader who died in 1985. Several factories in Gjirokastër produce chemicals, cigarettes, tobacco, shoes, and leather. The city is noted for its yogurt, cheese, and hashaf, a dish c o n s i s t i n g o f j u n k e t a n d f i g s. Gjirokastër has a population of 22,000. KORÇË is located in southeastern Albania and is nestled in a fertile 5

Albania mountain valley. The city was a major trading and commercial center during the 17th through 19th centuries. During World War II, Korçë was occupied at various times by the Italians, Greeks, and Germans. Today, the city is a productive agricultural center for the wheat, apples, grapes, and sugar beets. In addition to agriculture, Korçë has several small industries. These industries manufacture beer, carpets, and knitted products. Korçë has a population of approximately 62,000. The southern city of VLORË is Albania’s second largest port city. The city was established by the Greeks around 400 B.C. Throughout history, Vlorë has been occupied by the Romans, Normans, Byzantines, Venetians, Serbs, Turks, Italians, and Germans. The former Soviet Union modernized and upgraded the city’s port and used it as a naval base. Several small industries are located in the city. These industries include an olive-oil refinery, a distillery, and a fish canning plant. The city’s primary attractions are the Archaeological-Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Independence. Vlorë’s population, which was composed of Muslims, Greek Orthodox, and Roman Catholics, is approximately 71,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Republic of Albania is a small country located on the coast of southeastern Europe. It occupies an area of approximately 11,097 square miles, slightly larger than Maryland. Albania is bordered on the north by Serbia and Montenegro, on the east by Macedonia, on the south by Greece, and on the west by the Adriatic Sea. 6

Cities of the World A little over 20 percent of Albania is flat to rolling coastal plain, poorly drained in some areas. Most of the country consists of hills and mountains, often covered with scrub forest. Major cities are located in the coastal plain or in the larger upland valleys. Primary rivers are not large and flow generally east and west. The only navigable river is the Buene (Bojana), which forms the outlet for Lake Scutari along the Albanian border with Montenegro. Coastal areas of Albania enjoy a Mediterranean climate. Summers are dry and hot, while winters are mild and wet. Most of Albania’s rainfall occurs during the winter months, although severe thunderstorms are common during the summer. Interior portions of the country experience a cooler, rainier climate. Heavy snows and bitter cold are prevalent in mountain regions.

Population The estimated population in Albania in 2001 was 3.5 million. Approximately 95 percent of the population are ethnic Albanian. Albanians are divided into two distinct groups. Northern parts of the country are inhabited by Gegs, while southern Albania is home to the Tosks. Both groups of Albanians have similar dialects, social customs, and religion. Greeks comprise three percent of Albania’s population. Small minorities of Macedonians, Roma (Gypsies), Vlachs, Bulgarians, and Serbs reside in Albania. Albania had declared that it was the first official atheist state in the world. The government banned all public religious services in 1967. All churches and mosques throughout the country were closed. In 1990, after several antigovernment protests, the Albanian government reinstituted the right to religious expression. Traditionally, about 70 percent of Albanians were Muslim, while approximately 20 percent were Eastern Orthodox Christians and about 10 percent were Roman Catholic. However, decades of official atheism distorted these historical percentages. Following the

collapse of communism, a religious revival of sorts began, with many evangelical Christian denominations gaining new adherents. The national language of the country is Albanian, with Tosk as the official dialect. Greek is also spoken. In 2001, the estimated life expectancy at birth was 69 years for males, 75 years for females.

History Throughout its history, Albania has been invaded and occupied by various foreign powers. The Ottoman Turks governed Albania from 1478 until 1912, bringing with them their Muslim faith. In 1912, Albania declared its independence from Turkey. The new country was admitted to the League of Nations in 1920 and remained independent until Italian troops invaded during World War II. In 1943, Italy surrendered and withdrew its forces. They were quickly replaced by German troops. Small partisan groups, led by the communist National Liberation Front (NLF), launched a guerrilla campaign to oust the Germans from Albania. The Germans finally retreated on November 29, 1944. Albania was independent once more. A provisional government was set up under the leadership of General Enver Hoxha. The United States and Great Britain formally recognized the new government with the understanding that free elections would be held. Instead, Hoxha consolidated his control of the country. On January 11, 1946, Albania became a republic with a communist government closely tied to the Soviet Union. The United States and Great Britain responded by breaking off diplomatic relations with Albania. By 1960, Albania’s close relationship with the Soviet Union had soured. Albania’s leaders believed that the Soviet government under Nikita Krushchev was turning away

Albania

Cities of the World from strict communist doctrines. They also resented Soviet interference in Albania’s economic and internal affairs. Tensions between the two nations reached a breaking point in 1961. The Soviet Union and Albania severed diplomatic relations. Also, Albania ordered all Soviet troops and naval personnel to leave the country. Albania soon embraced the world’s other communist nation, the People’s Republic of China. By late 1961, the Chinese had provided massive amounts of military and financial aid to Albania. China quickly became Albania’s staunchest ally and benefactor. This close relationship began to unravel in the early 1970s. Albania strongly criticized China’s decision to improve relations with the United States as an affront to Marxist-Leninist traditions. China responded by drastically reducing all trade and financial assistance. In 1978, the Chinese informed Albanian officials that because of Albania’s continued hostility toward its policies, China would end all trade and economic aid. Diplomatic ties were not severed, although relations between the two countries are tense. China and Albania agreed to resume trade in 1983. In April 1985 Enver Hoxha, Albania’s leader since 1946, died. He was replaced by a longtime protege, Ramiz Alia. Alia continued Hoxha’s isolationist, anti-Western policies. However, Albania’s hard-line government would soon be touched by the winds of reform sweeping Eastern Europe. Massive antigovernment protest erupted throughout Albania in 1990. Seeking to end the unrest, Alia issued a number of reforms. Albanians were granted the freedom to travel abroad and a restoration of the right to practice religion, which had been abolished in 1967. Despite these changes, many Albanians remain unsatisfied or have left the country. Chronic food shortages, rampant crime, and government corruption remain a problem.

In early 1997, Albania dissolved into chaos when financial pyramid investment schemes collapsed and wiped out the life savings of thousands. Irate citizens blamed President Sali Berisha for the collapse of the popular schemes and took to the streets, looting stores, homes, and armories. Thousands fled the country. The situation improved later that year, with the help of 6,000 UN-backed foreign troops to restore order.

were an estimated 1,782 primary schools with over 550,000 students.

Government

Albania is considered to be one of the poorest counties in Europe. The economy has been stagnant after years of outdated economic practices and an unwillingness to seek financial help from other countries. The Albanian government has begun to implement various reforms to spur economic growth. In July 1990, the government gave up sole control of Albanian industries and allowed private citizens to start their own businesses. However, the government stipulated that owners of private businesses could only employ members of their immediate family. In mid-1992, the new Albanian government implemented a series of measures in an attempt to improve the economy. Unemployment benefits were cut dramatically and price controls on most essential commodities were removed. The result led to anti-government sentiments among many Albanians. However, the economy improved after 1993. In 1995, the government began privatizing large state enterprises.

At the present time, Albania’s governmental structure is undergoing many changes. Massive antigovernment protest erupted in Albania during 1990 and early 1991. In response to the unrest, the commun i s t A l b a n i a n Wo r k e r s ’ Pa r t y decided to give up its 45-year domination of Albania and allow other political groups to exist. The Albanian Workers’ Party renounced its Marxist doctrines. On March 22, 1992, Albania held national parliamentary and presidential elections. The Communist Albanian Workers’ Party, which had renamed itself the Albanian Socialist Party, was trounced by the opposi tion Democratic Pa rty (DP). Following the elections, Democratic Party leader Sali Berisha was sworn in as Albania’s new president on April 9, 1992. President Berisha is Albania’s first non-communist leader since the end of World War II. In the 1996 parliamentary elections, the DP won 122 of 140 possible seats, but in the 2001 elections the Socialist Party gained a parliamentary majority. The flag of Albania is red with a black two-headed eagle in the center.

Arts, Science, Education All children ages seven through 15 receive primary education at government expense. Secondary education is available in professional and vocational schools. In 1995, there

The University of Albania and the Albanian Academy offer opportunities for higher education. The estimated literacy rate in Albania is 93 percent.

Commerce and Industry

Albania has a very small industrial base. Its main industries include cement, textiles, oil products, and food processing. The government is in the process of developing Albania’s chemical and engineering industries. Rich mineral deposits can be found in Albania, especially chromium, coal, oil, chrome, copper, and nickel. Many of these deposits lie undeveloped. In recent years, the Albanian government has intensified its efforts to exploit the country’s mineral wealth. 7

Albania Because of its rugged, mountainous terrain, Albanian has limited arable land. Most of the suitable farmland is located along the Adriatic seacoast. Over one-half of Albania’s work force is engaged in farming. Principal crops include wheat, corn, cotton, fruits, vegetables, and tobacco. The majority of Albania’s trade is with European countries. Italy and Greece are the major trading partn e r s. O t h e r t r a d i n g p a r t n e r s include the U.S., Macedonia, Bulgaria, and Turkey. Albania imports large amounts of chemicals, pharmaceuticals, textiles, machinery, and iron and steel products. Its primary exports are petroleum products, tobacco, fruits, vegetables, metal ores, and asphalt. Albania’s estimated purchasing power parity of its gross domestic product (GDP) was $10.5 billion dollars in 2000, or about $3,000 per capita. The unit of currency is the lek.

Transportation In 1998, Albania had approximately 11,460 miles (18,450 kilometers) of r o a d w a y. M o s t m o u n t a i n o u s regions, however, have poor roads that are unsuitable for cars. Since February 1991, the Albanian government has allowed private citizens to have their own vehicles. Bicycles and donkeys are common forms of transportation. Regular flights are available from Albania’s capital, Tiranë, to Belgrade, Zurich, Berlin, Budapest, and Bucharest. The Greek airline, Olympic Airways, offers a weekly flight from Athens to Tiranë. In 1990, Albania opened its airspace to all foreign commercial airlines. Because of its location on the Adriatic Sea, Albania has several excellent deep-water ports. The main ports are located in the cities of Durrës, Vlorë, Shengjih, and Sarande. Also, a passenger ferry service is available from Durrës to the Italian city of Trieste. 8

Cities of the World It is possible to travel around Albania by rail. Railroads connect the cities of Tiranë, Durrës, Shkodër, and Vlorë. Another rail line is available between Durrës and Titograd, Montenegro.

Communications Albania’s main radio station is Radio Tiranë. Foreign broadcasts are available on shortwave frequencies in 18 languages, including English. Seventeen AM and five FM stations carry domestic radio programs. Regular television programs became available in 1971. There are nine television stations in the country. Telephone service in Albania is inadequate. In 1997, the country had only 87,000 telephones. Some small villages may not have telephone service. Internet usage is limited but available via internet cafes or by contracting with one of the seven available Internet Service Providers.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS The most direct and frequently used route to Tiranë is via Zürich or Rome. Alitalia operates one flight daily between Rome and Tiranë. Swiss Air has several flights weekly to Zurich. For travelers arriving via automobile, the recommended route is from Greece via Ioannina or Kastoria. Ferry service is also available from Bari and Trieste, Italy, to Durres, Albania, which is about 45 minutes by car to Tiranë. There are no restrictions or controls on the import of pets into Albania at this time. A quarantine is not required for pets, and there is no fee for incoming pets. However, travelers coming to Tiranë with pets should insure that shots are up-to-

date and their animals are in good health, as veterinary care is not always up to U.S. standards. All pets should be neutered, if desired, before coming to Albania. Very limited dog and cat food and pet supplies are available on the local market. Pets transiting European capitals (such as Rome) to and from post must comply with health standards for those countries. Travelers are advised to exercise caution and avoid crowds due to security problems. All American citizens in Albania are strongly urged to register at the U.S. Embassy located at Rruga e Elbasanit 103, Tirana. The monetary unit in Albania is the lek. Albania is a cash economy with virtually no acceptance of credit cards. Albania uses the metric system.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 2 . . . . . . . . . . Albanian New Year's Day Mar. 22 . . . . . . . . . Nevruz Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Western Easter* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Orthodox Easter* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . May Day Nov. 29 . . . . . . . . . Albanian Independence Day Nov. 29 . . . . . . . . . National Liberation Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Small Bajram* (end of Ramandan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Great Bajram* (Feast of the Sacrifice) Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas *variable

Albania

Cities of the World Logoreci, Anton. The Albanians: Europe’s Forgotten Survivors. Victor Gollancz: London, 1977.

———. Contemporary Albanian Literature. New York: Columbia University Press, 1991.

Amery, Julian. Sons of the Eagle. Macmillan: London, 1942.

Nagel’s Encyclopedia Guide. Albania. Lincolnwood, IL: NTC Publishing Group, 1991.

B e t h e l l , N i c h o l a s. T h e G r e a t Betrayal. Hodden and Stoughton: London, 1984.

Pano, Nicholas C. Albania. New York: Columbia University Press, 1989.

Sinishta, Gion. Banishing God in Albania: The Prison Memoirs of Fr. Giacomo Gardin, S.J. Translated from ITA. San Francisco, CA: Ignatius Press, 1988.

Biberaj, Elez. Albania. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1989.

Pettifer, James. Blue Guide: Albania. A&C Black, London, 1994.

Sjoberg, Orjan. Rural Change and Development in Albania. Bolder, CO: Westview Press, 1991.

———. Albania: A Socialist Maverick. Westview Press: Boulder, 1990.

Pipa, Arshi. Albanian Stalinism. E. European Monographs: Boulder, 1990.

Smiley, David. Albanian Assignment. Chatto and Windus: London, 1984.

RECOMMENDED READING

9

ANDORRA Principality of Andorra

Major City: Andorra la Vella Other Cities: Encamp

INTRODUCTION ANDORRA is the last of the indep e n d e n t M ar ch s t a t e s— b u f f e r states originally created by Charlemagne to keep the Muslim Moors out of Christian France. Tradition has it that Charlemagne granted a charter to the Andorran people in return for their fighting the Moors. A dispute between the Spanish bishop of Urgel and the French counts of Foix over the control of Andorra led to a paréage—a feudal institution recognizing equal rights of two rulers over a territory. On its secure mountain citadel, Andorra has existed outside the mainstream of European history, with few ties to countries other than France and Spain. This condition remained until the 1930s, when improvements in transportation and communications helped create a foundation for the country’s tourist industry after World War II.

south highway links Andorra la Vella with the Spanish and French borders. Buses are the most common means of mass transit, providing regular service to Seo de Urgel and Barcelona in Spain, and to Perpignan in France. There are no railways or commercial airports, but the airport at Seo de Urgel is only about 12 miles from Andorra la Vella. Roads provide passenger and freight transport routes, and there are several cable cars in operation. Trade and tourism form the basis of the economy, with a growing financial services sector. Andorra is a tax haven because there are no direct taxes. Prior to the creation of the European Union, Andorra la Vella was an active commercial center for trade in consumer goods, which were duty-free. Andorran manufactured goods still remain tariff-free, but agricultural products are subject to EU tariffs.

Recreation and Entertainment

MAJOR CITY Andorra la Vella Andorra la Vella is the capital and the largest city, with a population of about 22,000. The city is located near the Riu Valira valley. A north-

Andorra’s location high in the Pyrenees makes it a prime ski area. There is snowcover for six months, usually with clear and sunny skies, and resorts attract skiers from Fr an c e, S p a i n , a n d e l s e w h e r e around Europe. Once ski season is over, hikers, mountaineers, and rock climbers visit Andorra’s mountains. Hunting, fishing, cycling, and horse-

back riding are also popular outdoor activities. Folk dancing is a popular form of entertainment among Andorrans. The national dance is the sardana, but there are various regional dances, such as the contrapas in Andorra la Vella. Folk singing is a popular pastime, and traditional pantomimes are still performed as well. Visitors, mostly from France and Spain, come for summer holidays to enjoy the pleasant climate and scenery. There is skiing at Pas de la Casa and Soldeu in the winter. Romanesque churches and old houses of interest are located in Ordino, Encamp, Sant Julía de Lória Les Escaldes, Santa Coloma, and other villages. The best known is the shrine of Our Lady of Meritxell, Andorra’s patroness, between Camilo and Encamp. The church houses a statue (the Virgin of Meritxell) that, according to legend, was found hundreds of years ago on a snowy hillside surrounded by blooming plants. Many people from France and Spain make an annual trek to Andorra every September 8 for the festival day of Our Lady of Meritxell. Each of the larger villages has its own festival for the celebration. 11

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The National Library and National Archives of Andorra are both located in Andorra la Vella. The country also has a general interest museum in Excaldes-Endgordany, a decorative arts museum, and a science and technical museum focusing on the history of transportation in Encomp.

OTHER CITIES Automobile enthusiasts will want to take a trip to ENCAMP, where you can see the Museu Nacional de l'Automòbil which exhibits about 100 cars dating from 1898 to 1950, as well as a number of antique motorcycles and bicycles. The best skiing spots in the country are here, at the Soldeu-El Tarter and Pas de la Casa-Grau Roig resorts. Those who prefer a quiet afternoon of sightseeing can walk across town to see the beautiful Romanesque frescoes of the Església Sant Romà de les Bons (12th century), or the art and architecture of Sant Miquel de la Mosquera, situated in the center of the town, and the church of Santa Eulàlia, with the highest bell tower in Andorra. Encamp, with a population of about 10,600 (1999 est.), is located about 3 miles from Andorra la Vella.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Andorra is landlocked along the southern slopes of the Pyrenees Mountains between the French departments of Ariège and Pyrénées-Orientales to the north and the Spanish provinces of Gerona and Lérida to the south. The country has a total area of 174 square miles, or about 2.5 times the size of Washington, D.C.

12

Andorra’s main river basin is the R i u Va l i r a , w i t h t w o d i s t i n c t branches and six open basins. Most of the country is rough and mountainous, and there is little level surface. The valleys have an elevation of at least 3,000 feet, and the average altitude is over 6,000 feet. The country’s highest point is Coma Pedrosa (9,665 feet). Andorra’s high elevation causes severe winters, and the northern valleys have snow on the ground for several months. Rain falls mainly in April and October, and the humidity is generally low. Summer temperatures depend largely on the altitude.

Population Andorra’s population is approximately 68,000, with a density of 374 persons per square mile. The population lives mainly in the seven valleys that form Andorra’s political districts. About one-third of the population consists of ethnic Andorrans, whose origins are Catalan. Almost half the population is Spanish, and there are smaller numbers of French and Portuguese. Over 92% of the population in Roman Catholic, and Roman Catholicism is the official religion of the state. There are small numbers of Protestants and Jews.

Andorra

Cities of the World The official language is Catalan, but French and Spanish are also spoken.

Government Andorra has a unique form of government. In 1607, an edict established the head of the French state and Spain’s Bishop of Urgel as coprinces of Andorra. Andorra pays a token tribute of Fr960 to the president of France and P 460 to the bishop. Each year the bishop also receives cheese, capons, partridges, and hams as part of the tribute. In 1997, Marc Forné Molné won the general election to become president of the General Council. The council designates as its head a first syndic (syndic procureur général) and a second syndic for the conduct of administration. The General Council consists of four councilors from each of the seven parishes, for a total of 28. Half of the seats are based on a national list and half are elected. In 1992, the voting age was lowered to 18 and broadened to include spouses of Andorran citizens and long-term residents. The Superior Council of Justice oversees and administers the legal system. Courts apply the customary law of Andorra and supplement it with Roman law and customary Catalan law. The national flag is a tricolor of blue, yellow, and red vertical stripes. On the state flag the yellow stripe bears the coat of arms.

Arts, Science, Education Education is provided by both French- and Spanish-language schools and is required of students until age 16. The French-language schools are partially subsidized by France, while some of the Spanishlanguage schools are supported by the church. Higher education for

secondary school graduates is available in France and Spain.

Commerce and Industry The government encourages private investment in local companies. In addition to handicrafts, manufacturing includes cigars and cigarettes, distilled liquors, frozen food, and furniture. Andorra’s economy is based mainly on trade and tourism. There are over 240 hotels and 50 restaurants, making the tourist trade an important part of the economy. Andorra’s government is trying to attract tourists from countries other than Spain and France. The banking industry is also important, because Andorra is a tax haven for foreign financial transactions and investments.

Transportation A north-south highway links Andorra la Vella with the Spanish and French borders. Secondary roads also cross the border, but many are closed during the winter. Buses are the main means of transportation and provide regular service to Seo de Urgel and Barcelona in Spain, and to Perpignan in France. From the airport at Barcelona, Spain, it takes 2–3 hours by bus or taxi to reach Andorra. There is daily bus service to Barcelona and to Toulouse, France. Andorra has no commercial airports or railways.

Communications Postal and telecommunications services are handled by the Spanish and French administrations. There are two radio stations, and Andorra has the highest transmitter in Europe. Radio and television are also provided through agreements with the Spanish and French government networks. There are two d a i l y n e w s p a p e r s, t h e D i a r i D’Andorra and Poble Andorra. There are also some smaller Andor-

ran newspapers, and French and Spanish papers are widely available.

Health Andorra has over a 100 hospital beds and a few dozen physicians. Catholic priests and lay personnel take an active role in administering the country’s medical facilities.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS A passport is necessary but a visa is not required for tourist or business stays of up to three months. For further information concerning entry requirements for Spain, travelers may contact the Embassy of Spain at 2375 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, D.C. 20037 tel.: (202) 728-2330, or the nearest Spanish consulate in Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, New York, San Francisco, or San Juan. Further information on Andorra can also be obtained from the Andorran Mission to the U.N., 2 U.N. Plaza, 25th Floor, New York NY 10018, tel. (212) 750-8064.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS January 1 . . . . . . .New Year’s Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .*Good Friday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .*Easter Monday September 8 . . . . .National Festival December 25 . . . . .Christmas *Variable.

RECOMMENDED READING Carrick, Noel. Andorra. New York, NY: Chelsea House Publishers, 1988.

13

MAP PAGE

Vienna, Austria

AUSTRIA Republic of Austria

Major Cities: Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Graz, Linz Other Cities: Baden, Bregenz, Dornbirn, Eisenstadt, Enns, Klagenfurt, Leoben, Steyr, Villach, Wels, Wiener Neustadt

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Austria. Supplemental material h been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Nature heaved mountains to the sky and gouged deep green valleys in Austria; the Alps and their foothills cross from west to east and cover three-fourths of the pear-shaped republic. Its nine provinces shape a nation of diverse charm. In the Tirol, winter sees garlanded cattle return to valley farms from summer pasture on meadow heights, and skiers claim the slopes. Neighboring Salzburg, too, is a paradise of winter sports and summer hiking; its namesake city holds a famed festival rich with the music of a land that gave the world such greats as Mozart, Schubert, Strauss, and Haydn. Pine-forested and rocky peaks of these

provinces contrast with the blue lakes of Carinthia and the green vineyards of Styria. Vienna, capital and once the core of the far-flung Austro-Hungarian domain, lifts its baroque silhouette above the plains of a brown riverimmortalized as the beautiful Blue Danube waltz. A quarter of Austria's population lives in Vienna along the winding streets of a past grand age or in one of the many modern apartment houses built by a booming economy. Steady expansion of mining, metalworking, and hydroelectric power has more than doubled Austria's industrial output since 1938, though one of six Austrians still farms the mountainous land. Hard work has not changed Austria's Gemutlichkeit, the gay, relaxed outlook that runs through its life like the swirling lilt of a Viennese waltz. Vienna is one of Europe's oldest capitals. Noted for its physical beauty and rich culture life, Vienna is a cosmopolitan city that has historically served as a bridge between East and West. It is host to several important United Nations agencies. The dramatic changes in Eastern Europe since 1989 and Austria's entry into the European Union have highlighted the country's role in Europe's rapidly evolving political

and economics institutions, including the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), based in Vienna. An assignment to Vienna offers a challenging, professional environment as well as attractive recreational and travel opportunities

MAJOR CITIES Vienna Vienna, Austria’s capital and largest city, is located in the Danube basin at the eastern end of the European Alpine range, near the borders of Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia. Initially established as a Roman outpost and trading center on the banks of the Danube, Vienna evolved, under centuries of Habsburg rule, into one of the world’s most important capitals. In the 19th Century the city was the leading capital in Central Europe. After the Habsburg Empire was dissolved in late 1918, however, the imperial city became the capital of a state unsure of its own identity. The political and economic crises of the 1920’s and 1930’s, World War II, and the postwar occupation stifled progress and reduced the city to an impoverished remnant of its once 15

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Cities of the World

g r e a t p a s t . I t wa s s o m e t i m e s referred to as “a head without a body.”

expensive. Fabrics of all types are available, and dressmakers are generally good, but both are expensive.

Since 1966, however, the city has undergone a rejuvenation. The newcomer’s first impressions are those of activity—new construction, renovation, street repairs, and traffic. The city’s center lies within the First District, surrounded by the Ring (site of the old city walls, but now a broad thoroughfare). The main shopping area, fine hotels and restaurants, as well as many historic palaces and churches, are located in or very near to this district.

Women will find low-heeled shoes indispensable for Vienna’s many cobblestone streets. Good quality women’s shoes are readily available here, but narrow widths and small sizes are hard to find and are expensive. It is best to buy shoes before leaving the U.S. Warm, thick-soled boots are a necessity.

K n o w l ed g e o f G e r m a n i s v er y important and helpful for professional effectiveness and full enjoyment of Austrian culture, although English is widely spoken.

Food The Austrian market provide adequate quality and quantities of virtually all foods. Local Austrian stores and markets are well stocked and are widely patronized by the U.S. community. Fresh vegetables, fruits, chicken, pork, veal, and beef are in good supply. Meat prices are higher than those in Washington. Cuts of meat differ, and meat is not aged.

Clothing Clothing worn in Vienna is much like that worn in the northeastern U.S. Most Austrians dress conservatively. No special requirements or taboos exist.

Men: Ready-made suits are more limited in size and style than in the U.S. Tailors are good and materials are plentiful, but again, very expensive. Men may not find the style and fit of Austrian shoes entirely to their taste.

Women: T h e m o r e e x p e n s i v e women’s shops carry a wide variety of clothing of good style and quality. Generally, however, the selection of ready-made clothing is more limited than in the U.S. and much more 16

Women may wish to bring ball gowns to wear at any of Vienna’s many balls held during Fasching season (between January 1 and Mardi Gras).

Children: Although expensive and somewhat limited, local children’s clothing is attractive and of excellent quality. Rainboots bought here are worn without shoes. Many parents have difficulty finding shoes to fit their children’s feet.

Supplies and Services Cosmetics are available on the local market. Many women bring or order their favorite brands of cosmetics from the U.S. Most sundry supplies are sold on the local market, but are quite expensive. Mothers may wish to bring a supply of baby bottles, nipples, and sterilizers. Baby furniture is sold locally but is expensive. All basic community services such as dressmaking, tailoring, shoe repair, dry-cleaning, laundries, beauty shops, etc., are available locally, but expensive. Repair service for radios, phonographs, and electrical appliances is adequate but usually slow. Remember that most Austrians take a month’s vacation in summer, and many shops, laundries, dry-cleaners, etc., are closed during that time.

Domestic Help The rising Austrian living standard and low employment rate have led to a severe shortage of domestic help, and domestics are increasingly expensive. The basic monthly salary for a general, full-time, live-in ser-

vant is normally can be somewhat high, since the cost of food, health, and social insurance, vacation, and Christmas bonus must also be considered. Specific wage information may be obtained from the Vienna Retail Price Schedule, DSP33. Extra catering help is available for entertaining, but is expensive. Employers should insist that their servants have medical exams and chest X-rays before hiring them.

Religious Activities The Vienna Community Church, an English-speaking interdenominational church with Sunday school and an American pastor, was established in 1957 by English-speaking Protestants in Vienna. Roman Catholic services in English are held at the Votive Kirche and confessions are heard in English. An Anglican-Episcopal Church, Christ Church (affiliated with the British Embassy), a Church of Christ Scientist, a Baptist Chapel, and a Methodist Church also have services in English. German language Catholic masses are conducted daily and German services are conducted in several Lutheran churches, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, the Reformed Church, several Methodist churches, several Baptist churches, and a Greek Orthodox church. A Quaker meeting is held weekly. Services at a Jewish Synagogue are conducted in Hebrew.

Education The American International School (A.I.S.), operated under the sponsorship of the American and Canadian Ambassadors, offers a full curriculum from nursery school through grade 12. Over 50 nationalities are represented from among the school’s 800 students. The director, the majority of the faculty, and about one-third of the student body are American. While using the latest American teaching techniques, the school also takes advantage of local cultural resources. The result is an intellec-

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Cities of the World

directly to the school, giving the ages and grades of the children. The address is Salmannsdorferstrasse 47, A-1190 Vienna, Austria. Applicants for the first grade must be 6 years old by September 1 in the year of their entry; for the kindergarten they must be 5 by the same date. The school presently has no boarding facilities. The Vienna International School (V.I.S.), located at Strasse der Menschenrechte 1, A-1220 Vienna, Austria, offers instruction in all grades, but follows a predominantly British curriculum, and has a more international faculty and student body than the A.I.S. The Vienna Bilingual School (VBS) incorporates German/English bilingual teaching from Kindergarten to upper secondary school. VBS is a state school program and no fee is required. Inquiries can be addressed to VS 10, Selma-Lagerloef-Gasse 20, 1100 Vienna, Austria.

Street scene in Vienna

tually stimulating program which makes maximum use of the advantages afforded by the school’s international staff and student body. The elementary grades program includes art, music, Austrian studies and culture, and physical education, as well as a traditional U.S. curriculum. A daily course in German is compulsory for Grades 1-12 and four times a week in kindergarten. The high school college-preparatory program is designed to meet the admission requirements of the best American colleges and universities. The regular U.S.-style curriculum is complemented by the International Baccalaureate Program, a course of studies leading to

Courtesy of Mira Bossowska

a diploma recognized by universities around the world. Academic standards are high. Children returning to the U.S. have been accepted at leading colleges and universities. The physical plant of the school, built in 1964, is designed to provide an educational environment like that in the U.S. The buildings include a library, science labs, cafeteria, and new (1987) gymnasium. Athletic fields and a large wooded area are part of the 17-acre complex. If you have received firm notice of an assignment here and are planning to enroll your children, write

T h e F r e n c h s c h o o l , l e Ly c e e Francais, is located at Liechtensteinstrasse 37a, A-1090 Vienna, Austria and has classes from kindergarten through high school. A branch of the worldwide Sacred Heart Schools, operated by the Sacred Heart Catholic Order, has a German-language curriculum and is coordinated with other Sacred Heart schools. The Danube International School ( D. I . S. ) i s a n i n d e p e n d e n t , nondenominational co-educational day school with courses designed for students seeking an international education in Vienna. The school was founded in 1992 by parents of the Vienna business community. Students are drawn from the diplomatic, international and local business communities and consists of grades K - 12 with an approximate enrollment of 280 students from over 30 different countries. At the elementary level, the International Schools Curriculum Project forms the basis of the curriculum, while the Middle School is strongly 17

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influenced by the International Baccalaureate Middle Years Programs. In the High School the curriculum enables students to be accepted by a range of colleges and universities throughout the world, including the U.S. Contact the registrar for further information: Gudrunstrasse 184, A-1100 Vienna, Austria, Tel: 043-1-603-02-46, Fax: 043-1-603-0248. T h e Vi e n n a C h r i s t i a n S c h o o l (V.C.S.) was founded in 1986 and is a private Ch ristian school for grades 1-12. VC.S. has joined with the Network of International Christian Schools (NICS). NICS is an International Network of Christian Schools whose goal is to provide excellent academic training in a non-denominational setting. VC.S. serves children from abroad range of backgrounds, including business, diplomatic, United Nations, and missionary communities. VC.S. follows a basic American curriculum taught by certified teachers (in English), which leads to a fully recognized High School diploma. The full program included middle and high school art, sports, music, and drama. In 1996-1997 school year enrollment was 130 representing 23 different countries. The VC.S. consists of 2 buildings, 20 classrooms, and 1 library. The faculty at VC.S. is made up of U.S., U.K., Canada, and Austrian backgrounds. The VC.S. is located in Vienna's 19th District in the north part of the city; Kreilplatz 1/2, A-1190 Vienna. The phone number when calling from the U.S. is: 01143-1-318-82-11. There are many private and state run nursery schools for ages 3-6.

Sports Tourism is extremely important in Austria and the quality and number of the country’s sports facilities are undoubtedly among the principal reasons. The ski slopes at Kitzbuehel and on the Arlberg (Lech, Zuers), only 6–8 hours from Vienna, are among the best in the world. Good skiing can also be found less than 2 hours from Vienna at Semmering. Excellent ski 18

equipment can be purchased or rented in Vienna or at the ski resorts, although at a higher cost than in the U.S. Hunting in Austria is varied and excellent. It is, however, quite expensive. The overall season for all game is long. Game is abundant, e.g., roebuck, stag, snipe, pheasant, etc. Both a hunting license, “Jagdkarte,” and hunting permission card, “Jagderlaubnis,” are necessary before taking part in a hunt. Hunting premiums are charged in accordance with the type of game taken. These charges vary, but are generally very high by U.S. standards. Hunting is by invitation only and always done on game preserves. Contacts can be arranged to secure invitations through local tourist agencies. To secure a hunting license, the applicant must present proof of his hunting ability, usually a valid certificate from a hunting organization in another country. Lacking a valid license, a hunting proficiency exam is administered by local authorities. Two sporting guns (unloaded) can be imported. Ammunition is available locally. Fishing in Austria is also excellent. One can obtain permits to fish by invitation or by joining the Austrian Fishing Association “Oesterreichische Fischerei Gesellschaft,” which assigns specific sections of a stream. To save money, bring your own fishing equipment; however, all types of equipment including spinners and flies may be purchased locally. Vienna has several riding stables and many tennis and squash courts. A number of health clubs exist throughout the city. Ice skating is available all year round at the Stadthalle and from October through March at three other locations around Vienna. Three 18-hole golf courses are within 20 miles of Vienna; one is located at Prater Park.

Memberships at any of these golf courses can be arranged through the UNIDO Golf Club at reduced prices. By joining the Austrian Golf Association, one may also gain entrance to play on some of the finest courses in Europe. Sailboating and swimming on the Old Danube (now a beautiful lake) or at one of the many indoor or outdoor pools, biking, and hiking in the Vienna Woods are other favorite pastimes. Jogging is becoming increasingly popular in Vienna.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The beauty of its rustic landscape, the network of good highways, and the comfortable accommodations of its “Gasthaeuser” (inns) make Austria a paradise for those who love the outdoors. The “Wachau”, an area between Melk and Krems along the Danube, is famous for its vineyards, fruit trees, castles, and churches. The monastery at Melk contains one of the world’s finest old libraries and a wealth of paintings, tapestries, and art objects. The Province of Burgenland (an hour’s drive southeast from Vienna) is an area of gently rolling hills dotted with vineyards, spas, and castles. Lake Neusiedl, a favorite Viennese resort area on the AustroHungarian border, has gained worldwide fame as a bird sanctuary; it also provides good sailing. The central part of Austria, the “Salzkammergut”, a beautiful recreation area with high mountains, lakes, hunting, fishing, ski resorts, old castles, and churches, is about 3 hours from Vienna. Eastern European points accessible by car include Budapest (4 hours), Prague (5 hours), and Bratislava (1 hour). Visas are no longer required for visits to these cities by U.S. passport holders. People generally travel to vacation areas by private car, but the daily trains and buses throughout the country are excellent and inexpen-

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Skyline view from St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna

sive. The Salzburg-Vienna autobahn affords rapid, easy access to Munich and the rest of southern Germany.

Entertainment Vienna is the musical capital of Europe. The Vienna State Opera, t h e Vie nn a P h i l h a rm o n i c, t he Vienna Symphony, and the Volksoper are outstanding. The talents of world-famous conductors and virtuosos are on display throughout the year, although the opera houses close for July and August of each year. Tickets are very expensive. The Vienna Festival, held annually from mid-May to mid-June, is one of the high points of Viennese cultural life. The Vienna theater also enjoys a worldwide reputation. Paced by the famed Burgtheater, the many theaters present the classical works of Goethe and Schiller (in German) as well as the most recent Broadway hits.

There are 3 theaters in Vienna presenting stage plays in English, the Fundus, the International Theatre, and the English Theatre. In addition, there are 4 movie theaters which offer original language movies (primarily in English). Except for July and August and a short period during the winter, Sunday morning dawns with a special treat for the Viennese: the famous “Lipizzaner” white horses of the Spanish Riding School perform in the Riding Hall of the Hofburg, and the Vienna Boys’ Choir sings in the Hofburg Chapel. During the summer, “Lipizzaner” performances are also shown on Wednesday afternoons. Tickets must be ordered by mail 6 to 8 weeks in advance or purchased through a Viennese ticket agent. Vienna has many good restaurants with varying prices. Restaurants in the hills overlooking the city are popular, especially in summer. The

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

wine drinking cellars and gardens in Grinzing and Neustift are famous for their “Heurigen” (new wine) and folk song atmosphere. (The typically Viennese word, “Heurige”, refers not only to the new wine itself, but also to the establishments in which it is served and to special occasions celebrated in those establishments.)

Social Activities The American community in Vienna is not a tightly knit, highly organized social group. This is understandable when one considers that a metropolis like Vienna offers so much in the way of recreation, entertainment, and varied social contacts. Social recreation generally takes the form of cocktail parties, buffet suppers, dinners, receptions and “Heurigen.” The American Women’s Association, open to all American women in Vienna, meets from September to June. They publish “Living in Vienna,” which many find to be a 19

Austria useful guide for daily survival in the city. The American International School has a limited extracurricular program for students, including athletic teams. The U.S. Embassy sponsors Boy Scout Troop 427 and Cub Scout Pack 427, both of which are official members of the Transatlantic Council of Boy Scouts of America. The American International Baseball Club, Little League, is open to 6–15 year olds. An English-speaking, mixed bowling league competes once a week for about 9 months of the year.

Salzburg Salzburg, “die schöne Stadt,” is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, both in its surroundings and in its architecture. It lies at an altitude of 1,400 feet, and is divided by the Salzach River into the “new” and “old” parts. While the city itself has a population of only 138,000, it is visited yearly by more than a million-and-a-half tourists. Archaeological finds date the founding of the city to the Stone Age. During the Roman period to about A.D. 500, the Old City, then called Juvavum, was important as the center of administrative government. Early in the eighth century, Salzburg began to develop around the monastery of St. Peter. In the year 800 (approximately), it became the seat of an archbishopric and was an ecclesiastical residence for almost one thousand years. Following the city’s secularization in 1802, it was given to Archduke Ferdinand, and then, between 1805 and 1815, Salzburg fell successively to Austria, France, and Bavaria. The Congress of Vienna (1814–1815) returned the city to Austria. The city of Salzburg is the capital of the province of the same name (population approximately 441,500). The dominant architectural feature of Salzburg is the Hohensalzburg, an 11th-century fortress some 400 feet above the city. The views from 20

Cities of the World the ramparts are spectacular. Below the fortress are many examples of baroque architecture, including the ancient palaces of medieval archbishops, domed churches, and spacious squares with some of the most remarkable fountains in Europe. The tall, narrow, and well-kept houses lining the streets of the Old City testify to the pride the Salzburgers have in their tradition. The Residenz, built late in the 16th c e n t u r y f o r A r c h b i s h o p Wo l f Dietrich, opens its state apartment to view.

poser Carl Orff. The Institute is open to all age levels. The Summer Academy of the Mozarteum offers music instruction for advanced students during the summer months.

Next to the Residenz is Salzburg’s huge cathedral, and nearby is St. Peter’s Romanesque basilica, with its adjoining burial ground. The lovely old Mirabell gardens lie across the river.

A trip from Salzburg to Bregenz on Lake Constance (the Bodensee) provides one of the most spectacular drives in Europe, passing the length of Salzburg, Tyrol, and Vorarlberg. Quiet mountain valleys, particularly in the Langau area, afford a glimpse of native customs and dress unchanged by modern fashions. The area is rarely visited by tourists.

Schools for Foreigners Some American children attend schools in Salzburg, but classes are taught only in German. A small, two-room school at the U.S. base in Berchtesgaden teaches grades one through eight (staff dependents), and commuting is by bus. Two American-style boarding schools at the secondary level are in the area: International Preparatory School at Moostrasse 106, A-5020, Salzburg; and Sea Pines Abroad at A-5324, Faistenau bei Salzburg. Arrangements for students to attend the American International School (AIS) in Vienna must be made in advance. No established boarding facilities are at the AIS and living arrangements must be approved by the school before admission is granted.

Special Educational Opportunities The University of Salzburg is open to students of all nationalities, and many U.S. students attend. In addition, the world-renowned Mozarteum offers advanced instruction to students of music. The Orff Institute, administratively connected to the Mozarteum, offers combined instruction in music and rhythmics, according to the musical education principles of the com-

Recreation and Entertainment Vacationers generally travel by private car, but the daily trains and buses throughout Austria are excellent and inexpensive. The SalzburgVienna autobahn affords rapid, easy access to Munich and southern Germany.

Skiing opportunities near Salzburg are practically limitless, with slopes ranging from beginners to competition only a short distance away. For those wishing to go to better known ski areas, Innsbruck is two hours ways, and both Kitzbühel and Zell am See are even closer. Salzburg offers good tennis (indoor and outdoor) and golf. A small but picturesque golf course is located at Klessheim, on the outskirts of the city, and a rugged nine-hole course is operated by the Berchtesgaden center. Sailing is a popular summer sport on the lakes within a short distance from the city. Salzburg, the birthplace and home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, is one of the most music-oriented cities of the world. Part of the house on Getreidegasse where Mozart was born is now a museum and there is a commemorative statue on the Mozart Platz. The Festspiele, celebrated here annually from mid-July through August since 1925, draws thousands of music-loving tourists from all over the world and features widely known conductors and performers. The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra and its conductor, are

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Skyline view of Salzburg from Hohensalzburg

special favorites, and the highlight of the season is the open-air performance of the medieval play, Jedermann (Everyman). Since 1920, this morality play by Hugo Von Hofmannsthal, has been performed in the cathedral square. Music festivals are not confined to summer, however. Throughout the year, various programs are given. The Mozart Festival is held in the last week of January and during Easter week, when it again features the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra in opera and concert performances. At the time of Whitsunday, concerts are also featured as separate festivals. The Salzburg Marionettes are a special attraction all year.

discuss matters of mutual interest. The American Chamber of Commerce in Austria holds one or two functions each year in Salzburg or its immediate vicinity. Discussions, for the most part, are in German. A tourist office is located at Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 16/1/2, A-5010 Salzburg.

Innsbruck

Salzburg’s restaurants are good, although rather expensive, and many offer sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Innsbruck, a famous winter and summer resort, is also a market and transportation center. With a population of 117,000, it is the capital of the Tyrol (or Tirol) Province (pop. 586,000), and is situated on the Inn River amidst soaring alpine ranges. Its main street, the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding snowcapped mountain peaks.

There is no American community here as such, but an Austro-American Society has periodic meetings to

Innsbruck, meaning “bridge over the Inn,” was named for the bridge first built in the 12th century.

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Established as a fortified town by 1180, Innsbruck supplanted Merano as the capital of the Tyrol in 1420. Today, a visitor may walk down arcaded streets and cobbled passages lined with shops displaying beautiful embroidery, leather work, and carvings made by hand in the surrounding countryside. Innsbruck’s university was founded in 1677. The city hosted the Winter Olympic Games in 1964 and 1976, and a museum shows videos of highlights from these games. There are many interesting sites in Innsbruck. The Hofkirche, or Court Church, built between 1553 and 1563, is an architectural marvel. There is a memorial tomb to Emperor Maximilian I; 24 scenes in marble high-relief cover the sides an d d e pi c t t h e e m pe r o r ’s l if e. Around the tomb stand 28 bronze figures which portray his real and legendary ancestors and relatives. The grave of Andreas Hofer and other 1809 freedom fighters may be found here. The tomb of Archduke 21

Austria Ferdinand II and his morganatic wife are in the Silver Chapel. The wooden organ, dating to 1600, is still played today. The Fürstenburg, a 15th-century house, has a balcony with a gilded copper roof—the Goldenes Dachl. The late-Gothic structure, built under Maximilian in 1500, has 2,657 gold-plated tiles. Annasäule, St. Ann’s Column, located on MariaTheresien-Strasse, was erected in 1706 in thanksgiving for the successful defense against Bavarian invasion during the War of the Spanish Succession. Innsbruck has many museums, including the Ferdinandeum, containing the largest Gothic collection in Austria; and the Tyrolean Regional Museum, containing a history of mining and field sports. The nearby Alps offer the visitor to Innsbruck another form of entertainment. Hiking, fishing, and swimming may be done in the mountains. Unforgettable views of these mountains can be seen by train, aerial cable cars, bus, gondola lifts, or by walking. A tourist office is located at Bozner Platz 6, A-6010, Innsbruck.

Graz Graz is Austria’s second largest city (242,000), and capital of Styria (Steiermark) Province (1,118,000). It is both an industrial and cultural center and lies on the Mur River, 35 miles north of the Slovenia border and 120 miles southwest of Vienna. Graz, derived from the Slavic word for fortress, was probably founded in the 12th century. At that time, a fortress was constructed on the mountain peak, Schlossberg, overlooking the Mur River. In the following century, the settlement was enclosed within fortifications, which later served as a bulwark against Turkish invasions. The city’s glory days were during the 15th and 17th centuries when it was the seat of the Hapsburg emperors and the imperial capital of an empire reaching to the Adriatic Sea. The original part 22

Cities of the World of the city is built along the eastern bank of the Mur, overshadowed by Castle Hill, where the famous 16thcentury Uhrtrum, or clock tower, stands as a symbol of the city. Graz is usually forgotten by tourists who tend to visit Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, and the alpine resorts. Its lack of public attention, however, seems to be part of its charm, as the Old World lives on in a way that has long since disappeared in other parts of the continent. The city today exhibits many examples of late Gothic, Renaissance, and early baroque architecture. Spires, towers, and green copper domes overlook sharply peaked, rust-brown roofs. Special decorative touches include painted facades on old buildings, delicate statuary, and ornate rococo trim. There are beautiful parks and gardens, accessible via wide, tree-lined boulevards. A medieval cathedral and several churches from the 15th century are among Graz’s main attractions. The city’s square, the Hauptplatz, laid out in 1164, faces the neo-Renaissance city hall. Cobblestone streets lined with 17th-century buildings fan out from the square. Most mornings, a bustling open-air market is set up around the statue of Archduke Johann. The main thoroughfare, the Herrengasse, is closed to all traffic except streetcars. Here on the Herrengasse is the Landhaus, or Styrian parliament, designed in 1557 by Italian architect Domenico dell’Allio. The Landhaus has a vast inner courtyard resembling the architect’s native Florence. Close by is an armory which displays 30,000 medieval weapons and armor, the largest collection of its kind in the world. The state university at Graz dates from the 16th century, and it was here that Johannes Kepler (1571– 1630), the German astronomer, taught for several years. The new university, constructed between 1890 and 1895, is known for medical studies.

There are many fine restaurants in Graz, and especially interesting are the low-vaulted cellar (Keller) restaurants. Menus usually feature authentic peasant specialties. Graz is known for its wine as well as its beer. The Graz Festival of drama, music, and dance takes place in late Ju n e a n d e a r l y Ju l y. S t y r i a n Autumn, in October, is a month-long festival of the performing and graphic arts. The tourist office in Graz is located at Landhaus, Herrangasse 16, A8010.

Linz Linz, the nation’s largest port, is a Danube city in northwest Austria, 120 miles west of Vienna and 60 miles east of Passau, Germany. It is the capital of Upper Austria (Oberösterreich, population 1,270,000), as well as the country’s third largest city, with a population of approximately 204,000. Important commercially and industrially, Linz manufactures iron, steel, machinery, and textiles. Originally a Roman trading settlement called Lentia, Linz’s history is varied and colorful, mainly because of its location at the crossroads of Europe’s main north-south and east-west travel routes. Linz grew from a small market village in the ninth century, to the provincial capital of the Holy Roman Empire in 1489. It became a center of technological pioneering late in the 19th century. The first railway line on the continent connected Linz with Cêské Budêjovice in southern Bohemia. At the beginning of the 20th century, the world’s first metal airplane w a s b u i l t i n L i n z . H e r e, t o o , Johannes Kepler completed his main work, Harmonices Mundi, which laid the foundation for space exploration. The university in Linz is named in his honor. The city suffered considerable damage during World War II and was occupied by U.S. troops on May 6, 1945.

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reminders of when Baden was a Roman settlement are prevalent. The city served as Soviet headquarters during the occupation of Austria, 1945–55. The population here is about 23,000.

Street scene in Innsbruck

Linz today combines past and present, culture and industry. Architecturally, all styles can be seen in the city. Austria’s oldest church, the Martinskirche (Church of St. Martin), was built in the eighth century in Romanesque style. Here also is St. Florian, the 17th-century baroque cathedral where the composer Anton Bruckner was organist; today the city’s congress center and concert hall, the Brucknerhaus, is named for him, and the Bruckner Festival, held each September, has earned the hall and the city an international reputation in the music world. A neo-Gothic cathedral, the Neuer Dom, was built between 1862 and 1924. The tower is 145 feet high; the cathedral can hold 20,000 people. The old marketplace is surrounded by baroque and rococo facades, while the main square with its Trinity Column is one of the largest and most beautiful town squares in Europe. The Provincial Museum gives a representative picture of the history and folklore of the city and surrounding countryside, as well as housing collections of indigenous and international art. The restaurants in Linz offer a fresh and wide variety of food, since the city lies in the center of a fertile,

© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

arable, and market gardening region. Wine is the only commodity not produced locally. Linz offers a broad variety of leisure-time activities. The Pöstlingberg, the hill overlooking the city, is more than a place of pilgrimage; the grotto railway is a fairy tale world for children, and the terraces are decked with botanical specimens. The railway was built in 1898 and is Europe’s steepest mountain track, making the trip from the suburb of Urfahr to the top of Pöstlingberg in 16 minutes. Linz also offers facilities for golf, horseback riding, tennis, swimming, and skating. The official tourist office in Linz is located at Schillenstr. 50, A-4010. There is also an office in the main train station.

OTHER CITIES BADEN (also called Baden bei Wien) is located in eastern Austria 15 miles southwest of Vienna, on the Schwechat River. Since Roman times, when it was called Aquae Pannonicae, Baden has been a popular spa resort. Lush villas and fashionable hotels adorn the city. There are parks, a museum, and a summer theater here. Architectural

BREGENZ, the capital of Vorarlberg Province (306,000), is located in extreme western Austria. Situated on Lake Constance (in Germ a n , t h e Bo d e n s e e ) , 7 8 m i l e s northwest of Innsbruck, Bregenz is a lake port and a winter sports resort. An ancient Celtic settlement and an important Roman station, Bregenz was chartered as a city around 1200. Ruled by the counts of Montfort and later the Hapsburgs, Bregenz became the administrative center of Vorarlberg in 1726. Today, with a population of 27,000, Bregenz is the site of a hydroelectric plant. Its industries include chemicals, electronic equipment, and textiles. A museum of Roman and Celtic artifacts is located in the city. Bregenz Forest, the densely wooded hig hla nd know n for its s ceni c beauty, is nearby. The Bregenz Lake Festival, in July and August, is held on the wharf amphitheater. Six miles south of Bregenz is the manufacturing town of DORNBIRN. With a population of nearly 40,000, Dornbirn manufactures electrical equipment, machinery, and textiles. EISENSTADT, situated in eastern Austria near the Hungarian border, is the capital of Burgenland (272,000). Composer Joseph Haydn (1732–1809), who lived in Eisenstadt from 1760 to 1790 under the patronage of the Esterházy family, is buried in the 18th-century church, Bergkirche. The Esterházy palace, built in the 14th century and restored in 17th-century baroque style, still stands. Until 1921, Eisenstadt was a part of Hungary and it maintains a distinct Hungarian atmosphere. With a population of approximately 10,000 today, the city produces wine and manufactures textiles. Every five years (the most recent in 1991), passion plays are staged on Saturday and Sunday at the nearby St. Margarethen stone 23

Austria quarry from mid-June through early September. The plays are performed on the country’s largest outdoor stage, in a quarry that the Romans used 2,000 years ago. The town of ENNS is situated in the north halfway between Linz and Steyr. Enns is one of the oldest towns in Austria, having received a charter in 1212. It is located on an old trade route across the Danube, and was a prosperous market town during the Middle Ages. KLAGENFURT, the capital of Carinthia (Kärnten) Province (537,000), is a popular winter resort, surrounded by the mountain lakes of southern Austria near the Italian border. Chartered as a city in 1279, Klagenfurt reached the height of its commercial importance in the 18th century. Its current population is 90,000. A theological seminary and a large cathedral are located here. Austria’s warmest lake, Wörther See, and the surrounding beaches are nearby. Near Klagenfurt, the Austrian Alpine International Academy at A-9161 Maria Rain is open to American students (kindergarten through grade 12) interested in English-language classes. LEOBEN is located in Styria, southeastern Austria, on the Mur River, about 27 miles northwest of Graz. Situated in a coal mining region, Leoben is an industrial center with large ironworks, textile mills, and breweries. A preliminary p e a c e t r e a t y, s u p e r s e d i n g t h e Treaty of Campo Formio, was signed between France and Austria in Leoben on April 18, 1797. The population today is about 35,000. Less than 10 miles northeast is Bruck, or Bruck an der Mur. Bruck has a population of 18,000 and manufactures paper and iron goods. Knittelfeld, 12 miles southwest of Leoben, with a population of 14,000, is also an industrial city. It dates to the early 13th century. STEYR (Steier), situated in northern Austria 20 miles south of Linz, has been an iron working center since the Middle Ages. An industrial 24

Cities of the World center located on the Steyr River at its confluence with the Enns, the city produces motor vehicles, tractors, sporting firearms, and iron goods. With a current population of nearly 40,000, Steyr has many wellpreserved historic buildings. Among them are Lamberg Castle, built in the 10th century and restored in the 18th century; a 15th-century Gothic parish church; and an 18th-century town hall. Situated on the Drau River, 21 miles west of Klagenfurt, in southwest Austria, VILLACH is the commercial and trade center of Carinthia Province. Lead from mines in Bleiburg is used here for manufacturing. Villach also trades timber. Among the city’s sites is the 15th-century St. Jacob’s Church, in Gothic style with a tall detached tower. The population is approximately 88,000 here. Nearby Warmbad Villach is known for its mineral baths. Just west of Enns in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) is WELS. With a population of 51,000, it is the second largest city in the province, located about 120 miles east of Vienna. Situated on a site occupied since preh i s t o r i c t i m e s , We l s i s a manufacturing and commercial city producing agricultural machinery and textiles. There are natural-gas deposits and hydroelectric power in Wels. Architecture here is in the late Gothic and baroque styles. The castle where Emperor Maximilian I died in 1519 is located in Wels. Fou n d ed i n 15 B. C., t he c it y’s ancient name was Ovilava. WIENER NEUSTADT, located 35 miles southwest of Vienna, has a current population of 35,500. An industrial city that is also a railroad junction, Wiener Neustadt manufactures textiles and leather goods, and brews beer. Founded about 1193, the city was at the height of its prosperity in the 15th century. Severely damaged during World War II, Wiener Neustadt was occupied by Soviet troops on April 3, 1945. A visitor to the city may see a 13th-century cathedral, a 13th-cen-

tury castle, and three towers of medieval fortifications.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Austria, located in the heart of Europe, is about the size of Maine. It shares a common border with two members of NATO: the Federal Republic of Germany and Italy; three former East Bloc countries: Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia; neutral Switzerland; recently independent Slovenia; and the Principality of Liechtenstein. Austria is primarily mountainous, with the Alps and their approaches dominating the western and southern provinces. The eastern provinces and Vienna are located in the Danube basin. Temperature extremes in Vienna vary between summer highs of 85°F and –4°F in winter. October may be damp and rainy, and light snowfalls occur in November and December. Snow, sometimes heavy, and frost can occur from January until midMarch. April, May, and early June offer pleasant spring weather, and summers are often delightful. Vienna sometimes becomes uncomfortably hot in July and August, especially in the city’s center, but the suburbs, particularly those which are elevated, are pleasant. The city is subject to rapid and marked changes in atmospheric pressures with accompanying winds. One such wind, the Foehn, carries warm air from the south. It has a special meaning for the Viennese since many people blame it for peculiar human behavior. Average annual precipitation in Vienna is 26.89 inches. The mountainous regions have long, cold winters with heavy snowfall and bright, crisp days. The Danube basin usually has less snow, is more damp, and therefore has more gray

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Austrians walking in front of the Schönbrunn in Vienna

and overcast days than the higher altitudes.

Population Austria's population is 8.0 million; about 1.6 million live in Vienna. As opposed to the ethnic diversity of the old empire, the present-day population is fairly homogenous. Of the six officially recognized minorities, only 2 show significant numbers: about 18,000 Croatians in Burgenland and some 15,000 Slovenes in Carinthia. In addition, significant numbers of individuals of Turkish, North African, and East European origin have recently settled in the country, residing mostly in Vienna. An estimated 40,000 Bosnian refugees are residing in Austria. Many Austrians, particular ly in the Vienna area, have relatives in the neighboring Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary. German is the first language of about 92% of the population.

Approximately 78% of the Austrian population is Roman Catholic. In contrast to the clericalism which strongly influenced Austrian affairs as late as the 1930s, the present church hierarchy is not politically active.

Public Institutions The Republic of Austria is a federal state with nine provinces, one of which is Vienna. The government is parliamentary. A Council of Ministers headed by the Chancellor is responsible to the legislature. The directly electe d President has predominately ceremonial responsibilities. The legislature is bicameral with the Nationalrat (lower house) exercising real legislative authority. The Bundesrat (upper house) only reviews legislation passed by the Nationalrat and has delaying, not absolute veto, powers.

Courtesy of Jolen Gedridge

Since World War II, Austria has been politically stable. The two coalition parties - Social Democrats (SPO) and People's Party (OVP) have the support of about 66% of the electorate. The remaining 34% is divided among the Freedom Party (FPO), the Liberal Forum (LIF), and the Greens. Extremist parties have virtually no influence on government policy. The Social Democratic Party traditionally draws its constituency from blue and white-collar workers, so that much of its strength lies in the urban and industrialized areas. In the past, the party advocated heavy state involvement in Austria's key industries, the extension of social security benefits, and a full-employment policy. In the mid-1980s, the party began to swing toward free market-oriented economic policies and balancing the federal budget. The traditional constituency of the People's Party has been among farmers and businesses. Its centers 25

Austria of strength are the rural regions of Austria. In economic matters, the party advocates conservative financial policies and privatization of much of Austria's nationalized industry. It advocates Austrian membership in NATO. The Freedom Party has been the major opposition party. Recently, the party's mixture of populism and antiestablishment themes has won increased support. In provincial elections in Vienna in 1996 the Freedom Party moved into second position in city government with 28%. Nationally, it attracts approximately 22% of the vote. In February 1993 the Liberal Forum was established as a result of a split from the Freedom Party. The Austrian parliamentary elections, held in December 1995, produced an SPOOVP coalition government. The Social Democratic Party under its former chairman, C h a n c e l l o r F r a n z V r a n i t z k y, reached 38%. The People's Party, however, dropped to 28% of the vote. The Freedom Party, under Joerg Haider, increased its share of the electorate from 5% in 1986 to 22% in 1995. The LIF and Greens each polled 5%. National Parliamentary elections were held in October, 1999. The Austrian State Treaty of 1955 ended the four-power occupation and recognized Austria as an independent and sovereign state. The Federal Assembly passed a constitutional law declaring Austria's “perp e t u a l n e u t r a l i t y.” A u s t r i a n neutrality prohibits membership in military alliances and the establishment of foreign military bases on Austrian soil. Over the years, neutrality came to symbolize much more than the law stated. With its decision to join the European Union January 1, 1995 - and following the demise of the Warsaw Pact - Austria has begun reassessing its definition of neutrality. Austrian foreign policy is shaped by neutrality and the concept of “solidarity” under UN mandates. For example, Austrians serve in Bosnia 26

Cities of the World (IFOR/SFOR), and in UN peacekeeping missions in Golan, Cyprus, etc. Austrian leaders also emphasize the unique role the country plays as a link between East and West and between the industrialized and developing countries. Austria is active in the UN; several UN agencies, including the International Atomic Energy Agency and the UN Drug Control Programs, Space Program, and Center for International Crime Prevention, are headquartered in the Vienna International Center, which opened in 1979. The U.S. has a Mission (UNVIE) to these organizations headed by an American Ambassador, who also represents the U.S. at the organization charged with the implementation of the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty. In addition, the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) operates from Vienna and the Austrians play an active role. The U.S. Mission to OSCE is also headed by an Ambassador. USOSCE is also responsible for covering the Wassenaar Arrangement on Export Controls for Conventional Arms and Dual-Use Goods and Technologies, which is headquartered in Vienna. The International Institute for Applied Systems Analysis (IIASA) and the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC) have their headquarters in Vienna.

Arts, Science, and Education Austria is a paradise for the arts. The Vienna State Opera, “Staatsoper,” the Burgtheater, and the “Volksoper” rank among the world's leading cultural organizations. The great Vienna orchestras include the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and the Vienna Symphony Orchestra. The “Musikverein” and the “Konzerthaus” present special concerts and recitals by internationally famous artists. Visitors from all over the world are attracted to Austria each year by a variety of festivals: the Vienna Fes-

tival in May/June; the Salzburg M o z a r t w e e k i n Ja n u a r y ; t h e Salzburg Festivals at Easter, Pentecost, and in August; the “Sound of Easter” concerts in Vienna; the Carin t h i a n Su m m e r Fe s tiv a l; t h e Bregenz Festival; and the avant gar de Styrian Fall Festival in Graz. Vienna is the home of the Vienna Boys' Choir and the celebrated Spanish Riding School which features the beautiful white Lipizzaner horses. Interest in science and research is promoted by the universities, the Austrian Institute for Historical Research, and a number of think tanks, among them the Institute for Human Sciences and the Institute for Culture Studies, “IFK.” The Institute for Advanced Studies is also located here. Austria has 18 institutions of higher learning with university status, 6 of which are music and fine arts colleges. Recently, a numb e r o f p o l y t e c h n i c s, s o - c a l l e d “Fachhochschulen,” have been added. The total student body in Austrian universities is about 266,000, about 29,000 of whom are foreigners. Austrian universities are free for Austrian citizens. Foreigners in most cases have to pay a tuition fee of approximately US$325.00 per semester. Austria's institutions of higher learning are open to qualified Americans in most departments. However, some fields - varying from university to university - have restricted access due to limited study and laborat o r y f a c i l i t i e s. I n t h e s e c a s e s admission will be granted on a competition basis. American citizens planning to study in Austria should therefore check with the pertinent department prior to planning their studies abroad. With the exception of the various language departments, most courses at Austrian universities are given in German. Therefore, a good knowledge of the language is one of the prerequisites for studying at an Austrian institution of higher learning. The other requirement relevant for American citizens is a high school diploma. For instruction in

Austria

Cities of the World the arts, particularly music and voice, excellent private teachers are available. Also, a considerable number of American colleges and universities have branches in Austria with programs varying from 3 weeks to an academic year. Webster University offers a full undergraduate program with courses in art, history, political science, economics, management, international relations, German, and English. The internationally renown Salzburg Seminar it Schloss Leopoldskron, Salzburg, each year attracts young scholars and professionals in a variety of fields from Europe, the U.S., and around the world. Austrian education follows the traditional European system. School attendance is mandatory from 6 years until the age of 15, when students either continue their education or enter an apprenticeship program.

Commerce and Industry Austria's economy since 1945 has been characterized by steady growth rates, low inflation, a stable currency, and increasing integration into the European economy. Key features of the economic landscape include the “social partnership,” a consensus-building mechanism among government, business (represented by the Federal Economic Chamber) and labor (represented by the Labor Chamber and the Austrian Trade Union Federation). This partnership has helped bring about a high level of social services, wage increases in line with productivity, peaceful labor/management relations, and relatively low unemployment. Most sectors of the economy have undergone important structural changes in the past few years, in response to Austria's entry into the European Union on January 1, 1995. This brought both new opportunities and new competition. Currently, exports of goods and ser-

vices account for about 42% of Gross Domestic Product. Some 35% of Austria's total trade is with Germany; another 25% is with other members of the EU, and 17% with Central Eastern Europe. As a traditional gateway to Eastern Europe, Austria is an important center for the U.S. and other Western companies. About 150 of the 3 80 American firms in Austria base their Eastern European activities in Vienna. Austrian companies are also among the top investors in the East, especially in Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia.

Transportation Automobiles Austrian law requires liability insurance in the legal minimum amounts for all motor vehicles with Austrian registration, including motor vehicles belonging to diplomatic missions and to all personnel of diplomatic missions. The law also requires that motor vehicles be insured with companies approved by the Austrian Ministry of Finance.

Local Public transportation in Vienna is excellent. A network of streetcars, buses, and subways which maintain dependable service at reasonable fares, covers the city. Public transportation operates from 5:30a.m. until about midnight, thereafter there is a special “night service.” Many taxis are available 24 hours a day at stands in Vienna. Prices are relatively high, and drivers expect a tip of 10% beyond the meter price.

Regional Rail transportation to most parts of Europe is frequent, fast, and reliable. Many major international airlines have regular direct or connecting service to and from Vienna. Almost all of Europe's principal cities are easily accessible by air and rail.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone and telegraph service to all countries is available through the Austrian post at standard international rates. Monthly telephone charges are more expensive than in the U.S. as all calls are metered. An international station-to-station telephone call from Austria to the U.S. is normally more expensive than a call of the same duration placed from the U.S.

Mail International mail deliveries to and from the U.S. are reliable and frequent; transit time varies between 5 and 15 days for airmail and 3-5 weeks for surface mail. Parcel post services are available at international rates, and delivery to the U.S. takes 4-6 weeks. Customs declarations are required on all outgoing packages. Customs clearances are required on all incoming packages.

Radio and TV The Austrian Broadcasting Corporation, ORF, is financed out of user fees and advertisement and governed by a board (“Kuratorium”) of representatives from the broadcast industry, the government, and the public sector. ORF is known for its excellent news coverage, produced in Austria. Entertainment programming relies heavily on German series and U.S. and German movies. News and information programming is not overtly censured and the executive board has the obligation to see to it that all political voices are heard. ORF does exercise censorship on excessive violence in e n t e r t a i n m e n t p r o g r a m s. T h e international community relies heavily on ORF's foreign language “Blue Danube Radio” which operates primarily in English and has community service programs and music tailored to the tastes of the English speaking community. ORF continues to have a de facto monopoly on local broadcasting, 27

Austria despite large-scale privatization of radio frequencies which began in April 1998. Several out of a planned 53 private radio stations licensed by a new “Regional Radio Authority” instituted under the Office of the Austrian Chancellor are now operating. The new stations are a longterm result of a liberalization process of the Austrian broadcast media scene which started in 1993, when the European Court of Justice ruled against Austria's broadcasting monopoly. A law permitting private regional radio stations came into effect in 1994 and limited the participation of print-media owners to 26 percent in one radio station and 10 percent in each of two other stations, to avoid media concentration. Laws permitting the introduction of private (terrestrial) television are planned for the near future. Cable television provides a broad variety of foreign television broadcast, including CNN, and there are several avenues of procuring direct TV or satellite system reception for monthly fees. American radios will work with voltage transformers, but the television broadcasting system is different from that of the U.S. Compatible European television sets are sold locally, as are multisystem receivers, which can also be obtained at military shopping facilities in Germany.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals The International Herald Tribune, The Wall Street Journal, and USA Today are sold at newsstands and hotels throughout Vienna's First District, usually the same day they are published. Austria Today, a local newspaper in English, is published weekly. Six general circulation daily German-language newspapers are published in Vienna. Three, Der Standard, Kurier and Die Presse, offer serious coverage of international and local news, as does the SalzburgerNachrichten, published in Salzburg but widely available in Vienna. Other European newspapers are available at local newss t a n d s, a s a r e s o m e p o p u l a r 28

Cities of the World American magazines. Imported publications are expensive.

outdoor activities, such as walking and jogging.

A fairly good supply of books in English may be purchased at leading bookstores, but they are expensive. The facilities of Amerika Haus and the British Council Library are also available to the TriMission c o m m u n i t y. S i n c e c h i l d r e n ' s English-language books are in short supply, families should bring them from the U.S. or order them from the U.S. or British publishing firms.

Drinking water in Vienna has an inadequate level of natural fluoride and none is added.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Primary medical and dental care in Austria, while somewhat more expensive than in the US, is excellent. Austrian hospitals are well staffed and well equipped. Most patients requiring hospitalization (including deliveries) remain in Vienna. Local pharmacies are well stocked with European pharmaceuticals, many of which are the same as their U.S. equivalent. Prices are similar to those in the U.S.

Community Health Disease prevalence in Vienna is similar to that of any major American city. All milk is pasteurized and all water is safe and pure. No special precautions/immunizations need be taken for a tour in Vienna. However, please ensure that your standard immunizations/boosters are valid.

Preventive Measures In certain parts of Austria and Central Europe, there is a danger of contracting an encephalitis from viruses carried by several common tick species. While not all ticks carry the tick-borne Encephalitis virus (FSME-viren), those that do are frequently found in wooded, low-lying areas, such as the Vienna Woods. An excellent and effective vaccine, developed in Austria, is highly recommended for all persons living in Vienna who expect to enjoy

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties If driving a car from any other part of Europe or the Middle East, a traveler should get a copy of the International Road signs and learn them; the signs are standard throughout Western Europe. Roads in Austria are generally good to excellent. But one should not drive over Alpine passes in midwinter unless the car is equipped with chains and is in excellent condition; even then the roads are hazardous. Vehicles must be covered by liability insurance valid in Austria as evidenced by an international (green) insurance card. If the car is not already insured, temporary insurance must be bought at the border. U.S. or international license plates may be used for up to 2 months or until Austrian plates are issued. A passport required. A visa is not required for business or tourist stays up to three months. For further information concerning entry requirements for Austria, travelers should contact the Embassy of Austria at 3524 International Court, NW., Washington, D.C. 20008, Tel: (202) 895-6767, or the nearest Austrian Consulate General in Chicago, Los Angeles, or New York. The Austrian Embassy to the United States maintains a webpage in English that answers in detail, questions concerning the laws and regulations of Austria, including residency, driver's license requirements, and permission to work. For additional information visit http://www.austria.org/index.html. U.S. citizens are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the

Austria

Cities of the World U.S. Embassy in Vienna or at the Consular Agency in Salzburg and obtain updated information on travel and security within Austria. The U.S. Embassy in Vienna is located at Boltzmanngasse 16 in the Ninth District. The Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy is located in the Marriott Building, on the fourth floor of Gartenbaupromenade 2, in the First District. The telephone number for both the Embassy and the Consular Section is (43)(1) 31-339. There is also a Consular Agency in Salzburg at Alter Markt 1, Telephone (43) (662) 84-87-76, open Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9:00 A.M. to 12:00 noon. U.S. citizens in Salzburg who require assistance outside of these hours may contact the U.S. Embassy in Vienna. The Embassy also maintains a website, at http:// www.usembassy-vienna.at with security updates and other information helpful to American citizens.

Pets The Austrian Veterinary Service has strict rules about the entry of pets shipped by air to Vienna. The following requirements apply: rabies shots must be current; a valid veterinarian’s certificate must be furnished with a statement that there has been no rabies among domestic or wild animals in the original municipality of the animals concerned or in the neighboring municipalities within the last l4 days before shipment; and permission must be obtained by the carrier from the Austrian Government (Ministry for Health and Environmental Protection). Kennels are available locally. No quarantine restrictions for household pets exist in Austria as long as the pets have the above documentation.

Currency, Banking, & Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the Austrian monetary unit is the euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 Euro. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 5 0 0 e u r o s. T h e e x ch a n g e r a t e approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are presented as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

ATMs that accept U.S. credit and bank cards can be found throughout Austria. Austria has no currency restrictions on the import of reasonable amounts of foreign currency; export is limited.

Barea, Ilsa. Vienna, Legend and Reality. The Camelot Press Ltd.: London, 1967.

Austria uses the metric system.

Janik, Allan and Stephen Toulmin. Wittgenstein’s Vienna. Touchstone-Clarion, Paperback. Simon & Schuster, l974.

There is no exemption from paying the value-added tax (VAT) which is included in the price of most goods and services.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Apr. 27 . . . . . . . . . May 1 . . . . . . . . . . May/June . . . . . . . May/June . . . . . . . May/June . . . . . . . May/June . . . . . . . Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Oct. 26 . . . . . . . . . Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . .

New Year's Day Epiphany Easter* Easter Monday* Second Republic Day Labor Day Ascension Day* Pentecost* Pentecost Monday* Corpus Christi* Assumption Day* National Day All Saint's Day Immaculate Conception Christmas St. Stephen’s Day

Crankshaw, Edward. The Fall of the House of Habsburg. (Cardinal Books) Sphere: London, l974.

Jelavich, Barbara. Modern Austria: Empire and Republic, 1815–1986. Cambridge University Press: New York, 1987. Johnson, Lonnie. Introducing Austria. Osterreischer Bundesverlag: Vienna, 1987. Johnston, William M. The Austrian Mind: An Intellectual and Social History. University of California Press: Berkeley, 1972. Jones, J. Sidney. Vienna Inside-Out. Vienna: Jugend und Volk Verlag, 1979. Schorske, Carl. Findesiecle Vienna: Politics and Culture. Knopf: New York, 1980. Waldheim, Kurt. Austrian Example. Macmillan, 1973. It is recommended that travel books be purchased in the U.S. since English language books are not always available and are very expensive in Vienna.

*variable

29

BELARUS Republic of Belarus

Major Cities: Minsk Other Cities: Brest, Gomel, Grodno, Mogilëv, Vitebsk

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated May 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Settled originally by East Slavs in the 6th to 8th centuries, the Republic of Belarus is a historic borderland between western and eastern Europe. Because of its location, Belarus endured and occupation by numerous regional powers over the centuries, such as Poland, Lithuania, and Russia. The former Soviet republic suffered its greatest destruction during World War II, when it bore the brunt of the Nazi occupation. One in four Belarusians was killed. Then in 1986, the republic encountered a modern-day foe, when 70 percent of the nuclear fallout from the disaster at Ukraine’s Chernobyl nuclear power plant landed on Belarusian territory, contaminating one-fifth of its area.

With the breakup of the Soviet Union, Belarus declared independence on August 25, 1991. The United States recognized the Republic of Belarus on December 25, 1991.

MAJOR CITY Minsk Minsk, the capital of Belarus and the administrative capital of the Commonwealth of Independent States, is one of the “hero cities” of the Great Patriotic War (World War II). Situated halfway between Warsaw and Moscow and between Vilnius and Kiev, Minsk was almost completely destroyed during the fighting. It was rebuilt in pure Soviet style and has wide streets and large parks. In the past three decades, the population of Minsk has more than tripled to reach 1.9 million people. Skorina Avenue (formerly Lenin Avenue) and Masherova Avenue are the primary thoroughfares dividing the city. Although few historic buildings remain, the 17th century Russian Orthodox cathedral of the Bernadine Convent is undergoing renovation, and the “Trinity Embankment,” along the Svislach

River has been reconstructed in the 1 7th and 1 8th century styles.

Food The availability of food is constantly improving, but the selection is never wide nor consistent. Shipping certain consumables, such as spices, food items associated with ethnic cuisines, and items necessary for special diets, is recommended. There are stores in Minsk that best can be described as hybrids that fall somewhere between the local gastronoms and small Western-style s u p e r m a r k e t s. G o o d s f o r s a l e mainly are imported and are displayed on open shelves from which customers make their own selections, and customers pay for everything a t one time at ch eckout counters. A few of these shops operate around the clock. As well, more and more gastronoms stock imported foodstuffs and beverages. Shoppers usually can find canned goods, cheeses, pasta, juices, some fruits and vegetables, processed and cured meats, cleaning supplies, toiletries, packaged foods, soft drinks, snacks, liquor, sweets, and other goods at random. Food also can be ordered from a department store based in Helsinki. Deliveries are made weekly. A large farmer’s market is open all year in Minsk, and its merchants 31

Belarus

Cities of the World

sell fresh fruits and vegetables in season and imported items at higher prices all year. Kitchen supplies such as trash bags, foil and plastic wraps, reclosable storage bags, ice trays, and egg cartons are not readily available.

Clothing Clothing requirements in Minsk are relatively informal. Western clothing styles and brands are beginning to be available in Belarus; several popular clothing a n d s h o e m a n u f a c t u r e r s h av e opened retail outlets in Minsk. It is also possible to find a small selection of imported clothing in local department stores. Prices for such merchandise tend to be two or three times higher than in the West, and the choices are very limited. Although Minsk is one of the cleaner former Soviet cities, it is still pretty grimy, and clothes are easily soiled. Easily cleaned garments in dark colors are preferable. A supply of warm winter clothing is necessary. This should include rain gear, warm hats, scarves, gloves, socks, and sturdy boots with nonslip soles. Summers are usually mild, but temperatures can rise above 90°F. Spring and the short autumn are characterized by rain. Winter comes early, spring late.

Supplies and Services Supplies: Personal toiletries, cosmetics, and feminine hygiene products are available in local stores, though the availability is never guaranteed and the quality is not necessarily up to American standards. Although a German pharmacy has opened in Minsk, a very limited selection of contact lens solutions is available through local contact lens clinics. Paper goods, such as toilet paper and disposable diapers, are available locally, but supplies can never be guaranteed. Other paper prod32

ucts such as wrapping paper, stationery, or greeting cards are not sold locally. Also, most local stores do not supply bags for your purchases. Local people carry their purchases home in large plastic or canvas bags. These bags are inexpensive and widely available. Basic art supplies for children, such as markers and paints, are available locally. Fabric and yarns are available, but the selection and quality are not always good. Western sporting goods are beginning to make an appearance, but the prices are prohibitive. Film and photo developing is available locally, and the service is quick and basically reliable for about the same price as in the U.S. There are several firms specializing in computer sales and repair, from which it is possible to purchase basic computer supplies and software. Western tobacco and alcohol products are sold locally; prices are approaching or exceeding Western levels. Other entertainment supplies such as music cassettes and compact disks are available, but the quality and adherence to copyright law is never guaranteed. Some videos are sold, but they are on the East European system, Secam-D/K. They do not play in Western VCRs. There is not a great selection of pet food and supplies, but adequate products usually can be found.

Basic Services: There are several beauty shops, which are satisfactory and inexpensive, that give both men’s and women’s haircuts. Some hair products are available locally,. Tailoring, dressmaking, and shoe repair are available, but not to Western standards. Fabrics and other materials are available, but the selection is limited. Several garages that repair foreignmade automobiles have opened in Minsk, but spare parts for Western automobiles still are hard to come by.

Religious Activities There are a variety of religious societies in Belarus. Among them are Russian Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Evangelical Baptist, Seventh-Day Adventist, Jewish, Muslim, Baha’i, and Krishna congregations. Roman Catholic services are conducted in Polish and Russian. A nondenominational Christian fellowship that holds services in English meets each Sunday.

Education The private, nonprofit Minsk International School, operated by Quality Schools International, opened in September 1993. The school holds classes in a Belarusian kindergarten about a block from the embassy. Instruction is offered in English for students in kindergarten through 7th grade. For additional information, write: Minsk International School c/o American Embassy Minsk, Belarus or call 011-375-172-34-65-37 Mr. James E. Gilson, President Quality Schools International Box 2002 15 Sana’a, Yemen or call 067-1-234437

Special Educational Opportunities Russian and Belarusian language tutors are readily available. Arts and sports instruction (in Russian) is available through local government-sponsored institutions. French and German government cultural facilities with language training are being established.

Sports A tennis complex in the city is available for use, and the a nearby recreati on ar ea is a popul ar c ros scountry skiing location. There also are several swimming pools, weightlifting facilities, and an ice skating rink.

Belarus

Cities of the World Minsk has many parks and jogging trails. Soccer is very popular, as is volleyball. Belarusians are avid chess players, and organized championships occur year-round. On the outskirts of Minsk are several former Soviet Olympic training centers, including the winter sports center at Raubichi and the equestrian center at Ratomka. The Minsk Yacht Club, catering to sailing and wind-surfing enthusiasts, is situated on the shores of the huge Minsk reservoir known as the Minsk Sea. Fishermen, campers, hikers, and nature-lovers will enjoy Belarus’ many lakes and forests. Hunting and fishing are regulated and require licenses.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Most attractions within an hour of Minsk are historical structures, museums, and war memorials. These include the World War II Khatyn Memorial; the city of Zaslavl, site of a 13thcentury Catholic church; or the 15th-century Mir Castle. Belarus has a relatively good system of roads, and it is possible to travel to any corner of the country in three or four hours. Vilnius, Lithuania, is a two- to three-hour drive north, Warsaw and Kiev are eight hours away by car, and Moscow is a full day’s drive. Crimea, on the Black Sea in southern Ukraine, is the closest warmweather destination.

Entertainment Minsk offers a wide variety of live entertainment, including concerts, theater, opera, and ballet. The opera and ballet are excellent and have wide repertoires. A puppet theater and an experimental theater require a good command of Russian to be enjoyed. The indoor circus arena hosts many traveling troupes. Tickets are very affordable. New restaurants open every month in Minsk, though there is not great variety in cuisines. As of August

1995, restaurant patrons could dine in Western style at a steak house and establishments featuring Spanish and Italian cooking. Service and menu selection are not up to Western standards, and prices tend to be very high. There is no “fast food” in Minsk, but several pizza restaurants and a cafe with some Arabstyle dishes have opened in late 1994. Travelers should subscribe to favorite periodicals and bring plenty of books to post. Western newspapers are rarely received in Minsk on a timely basis.

Social Activities Travelers tend to socialize informally, sharing meals and going out to restaurants and Minsk’s three nightclubs. The international community in Minsk is small but growing rapidly. There is an English-language theater group that stages semiannual musical productions. Organized opportunities for meeting host-country nationals are limited, and Russian language skills are necessary for contact beyond the diplomatic community.

Special Information The southeastern corner of Belarus is officially a “no man’s lan d” because of contamination from the Chernobyl incident. The residents of that area were relocated, but main roads through the area remain open for travel through it. People traveling to Belarus by car may encounter long delays at the Belarusian-Polish border or the Polish-German border.

OTHER CITIES On the right bank of the Bug River in southwest Belarus, less than two m i l e s f r o m t h e Po l i s h b o r d e r, BREST is an important railroad junction. Its population is 294,000. Brest was taken by the Germans during World War I and was the site

for the signing of the Brest-Litovsk Treaty between Germany and Russia in 1918. During World War II, the city once again came under German occupation from 1941 until 1944, when it was retaken by the Soviets. GOMEL, a city with a population of jabout 504,000, is located in southeast Belarus. First accounts of the city date from 1142. Gomel has been a cultural and historical center since the Middle Ages. The city was controlled alternatively by Poland and Russia until 1772, when it finally became Russian. A rail and water transportation center, Gomel trades in flax, wool, and lumber. Located in a western corner of Belarus between the Polish and Lithuanian borders, GRODNO, at various times during its history, has been under Lithuanian, Polish, and Russian rule. During the 14th century the city was the capital of Lithuania; in 1795 it was the seat of the Polish Sejm which ratified the third partition of Poland, at which time Grodno became Russian. The city was occupied by German forces during both World Wars. Today, this city of 295,000 is an industrial and agricultural center. MOGILËV was founded in the 13th century and is located on the banks of the Dnieper River, 112 miles east of Minsk. Its current population is 356,000. Through its history, the city was controlled by Russia, Poland, and Sweden. It was partly destroyed by Peter the Great in 1708. In 1772 Mogilëv was annexed to Russia from Poland. Between August of 1941 and June of 1944, Mogilëv was occupied by German forces. VITEBSK, 140 miles northeast of Minsk, is on the Western Dvina River. This city of 360,000 is an important industrial center that produces machine tools, furniture, and radios. Vitebsk was first mentioned in historical chronicles in 1021 and was the trading center of an independent principality for about two centuries. It came under Lithuanian rule in 1320 and then 33

Belarus under Poland in the 16th century. After the First Partition of Poland in 1772, Vitebsk became a Russian city. Occupied by the Germans between August, 1941 and June, 1944, Vitebsk was heavily damaged during this period.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Cities of the World At an altitude of 656 ft. (200 m.) above sea level, Belarus has a mild continental climate, with an average temperature in winter of 20°F (–6°C) and in summer of 62°F (17°C). Annual precipitation averages 22-28 inches. Belarus is on the 53rd latitude, the same as Hamburg, Germany; Dublin, Ireland; and Edmonton, Canada.

Population Geography and Climate Historically known as Byelorussia (White Russia), Belarus occupies 80,154 square miles (207,600 sq. km.), bounded on the north and east by Russia, on the south by Ukraine, on the west by Poland, and on the northwest by Lithuania and Latvia. The country is roughly the size of Great Britain or the U. S. state of Kansas. Approximately one-third of the land area is forested, and 13 percent is uninhabitable marshland. The majority of the landscape is flat farmland, drained by the Dnieper, the Western Dvina, the Pripyat, and the Nieman rivers. Of the 10,000 lakes in the country, the largest is Lake Naroch in the northwestern part of the country, just east of Vilnius, Lithuania. The Bialavezhia Forest, on the Polish border north of Brest, is a nature preserve and popular tourist attraction. Nuclear fallout from the 1986 disaster at Ukraine’s Chernobyl nuclear power plant, just seven and a half miles (12 km) from the southeast border of Belarus, contaminated 23 percent of its farmland. Implementation of Belarusian laws regarding resettlement and medical care for the people and decontamination of the territories most affected by radiation has been difficult due to lack of adequate financing. However, in December 1993, the U.N. General Assembly, led by the efforts of the U.S., Japan, and Canada, adopted a resolution to study and attempt to minimize the consequences of the Chernobyl disaster. 34

The population of Belarus is 10.4 million, of whom 81 percent are Belarusian, 11 percent Russian, 4 percent Polish, 3 percent Ukrainian, and 1 percent Jewish. Approximately 68 percent of the population lives in urban areas, concentrated primarily in Minsk, the capital, and the other major cities along the route from Warsaw to Moscow. Life expectancy is 62 years for men, 75 for women. There is no state religion, though the majority of Belarusians are Orthodox Christians. Roman Catholics make up about 15 percent of the population, and 16 other religious sects are registered in Belarus. The Belarusian Constitution, adopted in 1994, established Belarusian as the official language of the republic, and many publicplace and street names were changed from Russian to Belarusian. Broadcast and print news media use Belarusian as does the government for official documents; however, Russian, still considered the language of communication, continues to be used widely. Belarusian is closely related to Russian and Polish. It is written using the Cyrillic alphabet, with two letters different from the Russian alphabet. In May 1995, during parliamentary elections, referendums were passed that granted Russian equal status with Belarusian as the official language of Belarus and replaced the republic’s post-independence coat of arms (a knight on horseback in a field of red) and red and white flag with ones nearly identical to

Belarus’s Soviet emblem and flag. Although the modified Soviet-era flag flies above government buildings, the knight-on-horseback emblem is still much in evidence elsewhere.

Public Institutions Belarus is a presidential republic, with a three-tiered structure of power: executive, legislative, and judicial. The first constitution of the newly independent republic of Belarus was adopted on March 15, 1994, and its first popularly elected president, Alexander Lukashenko, won his seat on July 10, 1994 and was reelected in 2001. The president selects a cabinet of ministers, headed by a prime minister, currently Gennady Novitsky. The Parliament (Supreme Council) of the Republic of Belarus acts as the highest legislative body, and local governments are administered by Councils of Deputies, led by mayors. In the judicial branch, a procurator general oversees the Constitutional Court of the Republic and a series of subordinate local procurators and courts. There are a wide variety of political parties, but party designations are meaningless under current political conditions. There are more than 600 nonpolitical public unions and associations, among them industrial trade unions, philanthropic foundations, sports and recreations groups, and associations for the disabled.

Arts, Science and Education The Belarusian cultural presence is exemplified by the well-known Belarusian ballet; the artwork of Marc Chagall; the 16th century printing and translations of the scholar Francisk Skorina; handicrafts including carvings, straw

Belarus

Cities of the World

View of Minsk, Belarus

© Nik Wheeler/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

weavings, and embroidered linens; and the popular traditions of folk music and literature.

1933, and the best-known composers include Yuri Semenyako and Evgeni Glebov.

Countless folklore groups perform Belarusian music and dances, and every year the Union of Belarusian Writers sponsors literary festivals. The poet Yakub Kolas is honored all over Belarus.

Fa m o u s B e l a r u s i a n s c i e n t i s t s include Kazimir Semenovich, inventor of the multistage missile; Yakub Narkevich-Yedka, inventor of electrography and wireless transmission of electric signals; Sofia Kovalevskaya, a mathematician; and Pavel Sukhoi, an air cra ft designer. The Academy of Sciences,

The Belarusian Bolshoi Theater of Opera and Ballet was founded in

which was opened in 1929, unites 46 research, design, and technology divisions and is the forum for the republic’s highest-level research and scholarly activities. Belarus has many state-run institutions of higher learning, with about half in the capital city of Minsk. Belarus State University and the Minsk Institute of Foreign Languages are among the most prestigious. After independence, several 35

Belarus non-state universities, oriented toward such fields as the humanities and business, were established. Children begin school at age six and continue through the 10th and 11th forms, at age 17.

Commerce and Industry During the Soviet period, Belarus was the assembly line of the USSR, importing raw materials and exporting manufactured goods. Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Belarus no longer has access to subsidized raw materials or energy products, and its as yet unreconstructed economy is floundering. Energy-inefficient factories make Belarusian manufactured goods, particularly heavy machinery, noncompetitive on world markets. The defense industry, which played a significant role in the Belarusian economy, continues to experience difficulty converting to the production of civilian goods. However, with its highly qualified work-force, strateg ic location in th e center of Europe, and well-established infrastructure, Belarus has good potential for economic growth. Belarus is heavily energy-dependent, importing most of its oil and natural gas from Russia. As 2000, the republic was carrying a debt of approximately $1 billion. The country’s few natural resources include peat reserves, iron ore deposits, coal reserves and timber. The textile i n d u s t r y, a l s o d e p e n d e n t o n imported raw materials, includes flax, cotton, and wool processing and weaving, and the manufacture of linen, cotton, silk, and wool fabrics and products. B e l a r u s ’s a g r i c u l t u r a l s e c t o r remains largely unreformed, with state-owned and collective farms still in the majority. Private plots, however, produce most of the vegetables for sale in markets. The primary agricultural products in Belarus are potatoes, cereal grains, sugar beets, flax, and vegetables.

36

Cities of the World The republic completely satisfies its needs in (and is, in fact, a net exporter of) meat, dairy products, eggs, and potatoes. Belarus’s main trade relationships are with countries of the former Soviet Union, mainly with Russia. A customs union with Russia was signed in January 1995. Germany, Poland, the U.S., and Austria are Belarus’s primary Western partners. Many joint ventures had been registered in Belarus, mostly with partners from Poland, Germany, and the U.S.; investors from these countries also account for the majority of wholly foreign-owned enterprises in Belarus.

Transportation Local Public transportation in the post city of Minsk is inexpensive and reliable, though usually extremely overcrowded. The metro and buses run from early morning until after midnight. Monthly passes, which provide access to all forms of public transportation, may be purchased. Taxis are generally easy to find, either at the many taxi stands or by calling one of two companies. They are inexpensive by Western standards, though not always very clean or well maintained. Fares are calculated by multiplying the price indicated in Soviet rubles on the meter by an inflation factor. Tipping taxi drivers is not customary, and if one takes a private taxi as opposed to a state taxi, a “tip” is certainly included in the fare.

regard the rules of the road. American drivers should be prepared to be pulled over often by the traffic police (GAI). Because of car thieves’ preference for foreign vehicles, the traffic police are very conscientious about stopping foreign cars to verify their ownership. Minsk has two airports. One is within the city limits and mostly serves domestic flights. The other is about a forty-minute drive from Minsk and serves international flights. The primary international airlines are Lufthansa, Swiss Air, Austrian Airlines, Estonian Airl i n e s, a n d L o t ( Po l i s h ) . E l A l recently initiated service to Minsk. Belavia is the Belarusian branch of Aeroflot and also serves international passengers, primarily to other cities in the former Soviet Union, though it has twice weekly flights to Shannon, Ireland. Because Minsk lies on the direct route between Warsaw and Moscow, daily trains serve such major cities as Berlin, Kiev, Koln, Moscow, Odessa, Paris, Prague, Riga, St. Petersburg, Warsaw, and Vilnius and are often the fastest and easiest way to travel outside Belarus. To ensure their safety and comfort, Western passengers are advised to reserve entire full first-class compartments, even when traveling alone. By Western standards, fares (even in first-class) are relatively low, though foreigners must pay more than local people.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph

Regional As in the U.S., Belarusians drive on the right side of the road. Belarusian driving regulations and traffic signals are somewhat different than those in the U.S.; American drivers should be aware of these differences. Signage is like that used in Europe, but road signs and traffic signals often are located in unexpected places. Belarusian drivers tend to be more aggressive than is customary in the U.S. and often dis-

Belarusian telephone service is often slow and not very reliable. Much of the telephone system has not been updated since it was installed after World War II. Touchtone service may not be available in all areas.

Radio and TV Local television offers channels in Russian and Belarusian, and European Satellite television service, which during certain parts of the

Belarus

Cities of the World day includes NBC Super Channel and CNN, is available for a fee. There is a commercial channel that s h o w s s o m e We s t e r n f i l m s i n English with Russian dubbing.

Newspapers, Magazines, Books, and Technical Journals Several daily newspapers, printed in Russian or Belarusian, are published in Belarus. No foreign newspapers are readily available, and even newspapers from Russia are difficult to find. A bi-weekly eightpage tabloid, the Minsk Economic News, is published in English.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Medical care in Belarus is below U.S. standards.

Community Health The accident at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant affected Belarus more than any other Soviet republic. Northwesterly winds carried radioactive particles from the destroyed reactor, located just 12 km south of the Belarusian border, across Belarus and beyond. In the days immediately following the disaster, gamma radiation in Minsk exceeded safe levels by a factor of 25. However, after a decade, radiation levels in Minsk have returned to normal. A significant portion of Belarus’s territory remains heavily contaminated (maps available in local bookstores show the location of the contaminated areas), and certain regions in the south of the country were evacuated; it is, however, safe to travel through the cont a m i n a t e d a r e a s. I n g e n e r a l , individuals are advised to avoid eating wild mushrooms and berries (which absorb and retain radiation longer than other vegetation) and to refrain from drinking locally produced milk. Minsk was rebuilt entirely after World War II, and therefore has the newest fresh water and sewer infrastructure of any capital city of the

former Soviet Union. Rivers and streams, however, are considered unsafe for bathing and swimming due to sewage and agricultural run off. The post provides tap water purifiers for residences. Compared to other Eastern European cities, Minsk has little pollution, but levels are rising due to the increasing number of privately owned cars. Although municipal authorities are operating on very tight budgets, efforts are made to keep the streets clean, and there is regular trash pick up in most residential areas. Cockroaches are common in summer.

Preventive Measures Tap water is not safe to drink, because of possible bacterial contamination and dirt in the pipes. Boiling the water for five minutes and then filtering it is recommended. Many Americans prefer to buy bottled water. Meat and milk are of dubious quality. Food handling is not up to American standards. All meat should be washed and cooked thoroughly. Boxed UHT milk can be purchased in local stores. While Belarus is relatively diseasefree, there have been reports of TB and hepatitis. Cholera, diphtheria, malaria, and TB cases are on the rise in neighboring countries. No immunizations are required, but Hepatitis-B and Immune Globulin are recommended. As well, routine vaccinations such as measles, tetanus, and diphtheria should be updated. A fluoride supplement also is recommended.

NOTES TO TRAVELERS There are no local entry or departure fees at the Minsk airport. There is no restriction on the amount of money that can be imported or exported in Belarus,

but amounts in excess of $500 must be declared. Export of art must be approved by customs inspectors. People buying art always should obtain an itemized receipt at the time of purchase or importation. Single-entry visas may be obtained from the Belarusian Embassy in Washington, D.C. (1619 New Hampshire Avenue NW, 20009, 202/9861606). Multiple-entry visas can be obtained only at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Minsk and will be issued upon arrival. There is no quarantine requirement for pets coming into Belarus, but dogs and cats must have all rabies shots up to date within thirty days of departure. An international health certificate is required and must be obtained within ten days of the pet’s arrival in Belarus. Veterinary care is limited but available. Pet food and supplies, such as cat litter, are not readily available. Employees should carry enough pet food to last until air freight arrives. Pe t s m a y b e t r a n s p o r t e d o n Lufthansa Airlines for a fee. Western-style boarding kennels are not available. The Belarusian ruble is the official currency in the Republic of Belarus. Inflation is high in Belarus, but it has been artificially stabilized since January 1995. Belarus redenominated its currency in January 2000, with one new ruble equivalent to 2,000 old rubles. At the end of 2000, the exchange rate was 1,180 rubles per U.S. dollar. Virtually all transactions are in cash, though a few large stores and restaurants accept VISA cards. Money changing booths, which accept German marks or dollars, are located in all big stores and on most major streets. Traveler’s checks are not widely accepted. The metric system of weights and measures is used in Belarus.

37

Belarus

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Jan. 7 . . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day (Orthodox) Mar. 8 . . . . . . . . . . All Women's Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter (Catholic) Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter (Orthodox) Apr/May . . . . . . . . Radunitsa* (9th day after Orthodox Easter) May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 9 . . . . . . . . . . Victory Day July 27 . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day (Catholic) *variable

Soviet Union. Graham Smith, ed. Longman, New York: 1990.

Keith Sword, ed. St. Martin’s Press: 1991.

Conquest, Robert. The Great Terror: A Reassessment. Oxford University Press, New York: 1990.

Kieniewicz, Stefan, ed. History of Poland. Polish Scientific Publishers, Warsaw: 1968.

Countries of the World and Their Leaders Yearbook 1993. Detroit, MI: Gale Research Inc., 1993.

Kipel, Vitaut. Byelorussian Statehood: Reader and Bibliography. Byelorussian Institute of Arts and Sciences, New York: 1988.

Czekanowska, Anna. Polish FolkMusic: Slavonic Heritage, Polish Tradition, Contemporary Trends. Cambridge Studies in Ethnomusicology: 1992. Davies, Norman and Antony Polonsky, eds. Jews in Eastern Poland and the USSR, 1939-1946. Macmillan: 1991. Dawisha, Karen and Bruce Parrott. Russia and the New States of Eurasia. Cambridge University Press: 1994.

RECOMMENDED READING

Diuk, Nadia and Adrian Karatnyckys. The Hidden Nations: The Pe o p l e C h a l l e n g e t h e S o v i e t Union. Wm. Morrow and Co.: 1990.

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

Eastern Europe and the Commonwealth of Independent States 1992. London: Europa Publications (distributed in U.S. by Gale Research Inc.), 1992.

Adamovich, Anthony. Opposition to Sovietization in Belorussian Literature, 1917-195~. Munich: 1958.

Exchange Arrangements and Export Restrictions Annual Report 1993. International Monetary Fund, Washington: 1993.

Auslund, Anders. Economic Transformation in Russia. St. Martin’s Press: 1994.

Fe s h b a c h , M u r r ay a n d A l f r e d Friendly, Jr. Ecocide in the USSR: Health and Nature under Siege. BasicBooks: 1992.

Batalden, Stephen K. and Sandra L. The Newly Independent States of Eurasia: Handbook of Former Soviet Republics. Onyx Press: 1993. Belarus: USIA Health Profile. USAID Health Information System, Arlington: 1992. Byelorussian SSR; Culture, Literature, Art. Soviet Government publication. Minsk: 1977. Chew, Allen F. An Atlas of Russian History: Eleven Centuries of Changing Borders. Yale University: 1970. Clem, Ralph S. “Belorusians” The Nationalities Question in the 38

Cities of the World

Gasparov, Boris. Slavic Cultures in the Middle Ages. University of California Press: 1993. Gross, Jan T. Revo luti on from Abroad. Princeton University Press: 1988. Hurwicz, Abraham A. Aspects of Contemporary Belorussia. Human Relations Area Files, Inc., NewHaven: 1955. Iwanow, Mikolaj. “The Byelorussians of Eastern Poland under Soviet Occupation, 1939-1941. “The Soviet Takeover of the Polish Eastern Provinces, 1939-1941.

K u p a l a , Ja n k a . Th e H e r i t a g e : Selected Poetry of Janka Kupala. New York: 1955. Larrabee, Stephen. East European Security After the Cold War. Rand: 1993. Letter to a Russian Friend: A Samizdat Publ ication from Soviet Byelorussia. Association of Byelorussians in Great Britain: 1979. Loftus, John. The Belarus Secret: The Nazi Connection in America. Paragon House: 1988. Lubachko, Ivan. Belorussia under Soviet Rule 1917-1957. Michener, James A. Poland. Ballantine Books: 1993. Mihalisko, Kathleen. “Political-Economic Assessments: Belarus. “The Former Soviet Union in Transifion. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington: 1993. Nahaylo, Bohdan and Victor Swoboda. Sovief Disunion. The Free Press: 1990. New American Embassy Posts Medical Handbook 1992. Department of State, Washington: 1 992. Odling-Smee, John, ed. Belarus: Economic Review. International Monetary Fund, Washington: 1993. Panov, Boris. In the Main Line of A d v a nc e : Th e R o ut e o f N a z i Troops in Byelorussia. Novosti Press Agency: 1974. Picarda, Guy. Minsk, A Historical Guide. London: 1993. Pinchuk, Ben Zion. Shtetl Jews under Soviet Rule: Eastern Poland on the Eve of the Holocaust. B. Blackwell: 1991. Reports on the USSR. Issues from 1988 to 1991.

Belarus

Cities of the World Ruble, Blair A., ed. A Scholars’ Guide to Humanities and Social Sciences in the Soviet Successor States. INION and the Russian Academy of Sciences: 1993.

Stashkevich, Nikolai. TheOctoberRevolutioninByelorussia.Minsk: 1979.

1986. Cambridge University Press: 1989.

Tec, Nechama. Defiance: 7he Bielski Partisans. Oxford University Press: 1993.

Vakar, Nicholas. Belorussia: The Making of a Nation. Harvard University Press: 1956.

Simon, Gerhard. Nationalism and Policy Toward Nationalities in t h e S o v i e t U n i o n . We s t v i e w Press: 1991.

U.S. Government, Central Intelligence Agency. The World Factbook 1992. Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1992.

Wexler, P. Purism and Language: A Study of Modern Ukrainian and Belorussian Nationalism, 19401967. Bloomington: 1974.

Smith, Graham. The Nationalities Question in the Soviet Union. Longman, New York: 1990.

Urban, Michael. An Algebra of Soviet Power: Elite Circulation in the Belorussian Republic, 1966-

Zaprudnik, Jan. Belarus: At a Crossroads in History. Westview Press, Boulder: 1993.

Shimanskii, Mikhail. Byelorussia. Novosti Press Agency: 1986.

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MAP PAGE

Brussels, Belgium

BELGIUM Kingdom of Belgium

Major Cities: Brussels, Antwerp, Liège, Ghent, Bruges Other Cities: Aalst, Anderlecht, Charleroi, Geel, Kortrijk, Louvain, Mechlin, Mons, Namur, Ostend, Tournai, Verviers, Waterloo

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated July 1996. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION BELGIUM, whose name comes from a courageous Celtic tribe, the Belgae, once flourished as a province of ancient Rome. It was successively ruled by the Franks, the dukes of Burgundy, the Hapsburgs, and the Spanish; it was annexed by France; it endured an unhappy union with the Netherlands through the Congress of Vienna; and finally, in 1830, it achieved independence. In spite of proclaimed neutrality, Belgium was twice occupied by the Germans, in 1914 and again in 1940. Its own colonial empire in Africa collapsed in the postwar era, yet this small kingdom astonished the world with its resiliency and enterprise.

Through the centuries, Belgium has witnessed an ebb and flow of cultures, and an appealing blend of these diverse elements are found here today. The picturesque cities of Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp are renowned for their medieval architecture and splendid Flemish art collections; theater-goers, music lovers, gourmets, and sports fans find ample occasion to pursue their interests; outdoor enthusiasts are drawn to the wooded countryside of the Ardennes and the charming beach resorts on the North Sea— and, adding their own special color to this tableau, are the profusion of flowers, the open-air markets, and the ubiquitous festivals.

MAJOR CITIES Brussels The origins of Brussels date back to the first centuries of the Christian era. On the banks of the Senne, a small stream long since covered and lost from view, Brussels grew as a crossroads and trading center. By the 10th century, Brussels was a principal stop en route from Cologne through France to the Channel ports. In 1402, the cornerstone of the Hotel de Ville, the central building of Brussels’

magnificent Grand Place, was laid. During the next five centuries Brussels experienced Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, French, and Dutch foreign rule. In 1830, Belgium won its independence from the Dutch, the Belgian monarchy was founded, and Brussels became the capital of the new Kingdom of the Belgians. Though retaining vivid architectural and cultural traces of its deep involvement in European history, Brussels today has all the excitement, activity, and comfort of a modern European capital. It is headquarters for the European Union and the North Atlantic Treaty Organization, as well as the European home for many leading multinational businesses. Brussels is legally bilingual in French and Dutch. English also is widely known and used, particularly in business circles.

Food Generally, food prices in Belgian stores are higher than in the U.S. Fresh fruits and vegetables are abundant locally year round, with seasonal selections and variations. In winter, potatoes, carrots, brussels sprouts, endives, celery, turnips, cabbages, cauliflower, beets, apples, oranges, and grapefruit are in particularly ample supply. Many other choices are available in the large supermarkets. 41

Belgium

Cities of the World

Supermarkets and many smaller stores carry a wide selection of frozen fruits and vegetables at prices usually higher than those in the U. S. Local foods are safe, raw as well as cooked. All kinds of fresh fish and a variety of meats are available. Pasteurized milk is standard. An incredible variety of delicious breads and bakery items are sold at local bakeries and supermarkets. American brands of baby food are available at larger supermarkets.

Clothing Clothing and shoe requirements in Belgium are similar to those for New England, the Middle Atlantic States, and the Pacific Northwest. In Belgium, however, more raincoats, umbrellas, and low-heeled, thick-soled wa lking shoes are needed. Winters, as a rule, are less severe than in Washington, D.C., with little or no snow. On the other hand, summers are not as warm. Lightweight summer clothing is not usually necessary, but at times can be useful for vacationing or on the rare occasion when the weather in Brussels is unseasonably hot. Summer clothing sold locally is usually of a heavier weight, often fully lined, and relatively expensive.

Men: The local market offers a wide choice of both ready-made and tailored clothing, but prices are often high.

Women: Women wear warm, often wool or wool-blend, dresses and suits most of the year. In July and August cotton or silk dresses are appropriate, but a sweater, blazer, or light wrap is often required. Lightweight suits are ideal for the changeable summer weather. An adequate wardrobe for Brussels includes sweaters, scarves, gloves, raincoats, rain boots, umbrellas, and good walking shoes. Women planning to attend private parties, theatrical and musical events, and other social events will occasionally need cocktail and short evening dresses, and less frequently, long evening dresses or skirts. Ready-made suits and dresses sold in Brussels are more expensive than 42

garments of similar quality in the United States and may require alterations to fit properly. The semiannual sales provide an opportunity to purchase items at less than normal prices, but often more expens i v e t h a n c o m p a r a b l e U. S. purchases. Tall women sometimes have difficulty finding suits and dresses in their sizes. Half-sizes do not exist in Belgium. Excellent Belgian, French, Italian, Swiss, and English fabrics can be purchased. Good dressmakers are available. Custom-made suits and dresses compare in price and quality to American equivalents. Clothing shops in London, Amsterdam, Cologne, and Paris offer alternative shopping options within a reasonable distance from Brussels. Women are advised to bring at least one warm winter coat. Fur coats and jackets can be worn comfortably, but are not essential for warmth during the mild Belgian winters. R aincoat s in va ryi ng weights are strongly recommended.

Children: For children, warm comfortable clothing or layered outfits are advisable. Sweatshirts or sweaters in natural fabrics, tights for girls, warm pajamas, turtlenecks, h o o d e d c o a ts, a n d j a ck e ts a r e needed. Both boys and girls will want warm coats, scarves, gloves and mittens, sturdy shoes with rubber or composition soles, rain boots, raincoats, and hats. Uniforms are worn in grades 1–5 at St. John’s International School. For teenagers, the fashion trend is definitely American. American professional and collegiate sports logo items are the European fashion trend and are available in local shops at highly inflated prices. Baseball caps are very popular. Jeans are the norm for both girls and boys at all of the local schools. Children’s clothing purchased here costs much more than in the U.S., but quality is good. Infant and baby clothing available locally is of German, English, French, and Belgian manufacture and is expensive.

Many styles of rain boots and shoes are found in Brussels shops. Warm fleece-lined boots are recommended for raw winter days. Many of the sidewalks and streets are cobblestone, which is slippery when wet and a menace to high heels. Belgian shoes are stylish, but are not always comfortable for American women. Small sizes and shoes narrower than “B” width are hard to find. French, Italian, and Swiss shoes are popular but expensive; they are normally unavailable in narrow widths.

Supplies and Services Supplies: Both American and foreign toiletries and cosmetics are available locally at prices higher than those in the U.S. Since the local water is hard, water softeners are often required for bathing and laundry.

Basic Services: L a u n d r y,

shoe repair, and dry-cleaning services are satisfactory and fast. One-day service is available. Laundromats can be found throughout Brussels and its suburbs. Coin-operated drycleaning shops are also available. Local dry-cleaning is more expensive than in the U.S. Beauty shops abound, from reasonably priced neighborhood shops to “name” salons with accompanying high prices.

Religious Activities Many religious denominations are represented in Brussels. The following English-language services are available: Anglican/Episcopal: Pro-Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, Rue Capitaine Crespel 29, 1050 Brussels. All Saints’ Church, Centre Notre Dame d’Argenteuil, Chaussee de Louvain 563, 1380 Ohain. S t . Pa u l ’ s E n g l i s h S p e a k i n g Church-Tervuren, Saint Paulus Church, Dorpsplein, 3080 Vossem.

Belgium

Cities of the World Assembly of God: Christian Center, Chaussèe de Waterloo 47, 1640 Rhode St. Genese. Baptist: International Baptist Church, Lange Eikstraat 76-78, 1970 Wezembeek-Oppem. Christian Scientist: First Church of Christ Scientist, Chaussèe de Vleurgat 96, 1050 Brussels. Church of Christ: Church of Christ, Rue de la Brasserie 78, 1050 Brussels. Jewish: Synagogue Beth Hillel and Religious School (reform), Avenue Kersbeek 96, 1190 Brussels. Jewish Synagogue of Brussels, (orthodox) Rue de la Règence 32, 1000 Brussels. Mormon: Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints, Strombeeklinde 110, 1820 Grimbergen. Presbyterian: St. Andrew’s Church of Scotland, Chaussèe de Vleurgat 181, 1050 Brussels. Protestant: The International Protestant Church, Kattenberg 19, Boitsfort, 1170 Brussels. Religious Society of Friends: Quaker House, Square Ambiorix 50, 1040 Brussels. Roman Catholic: Our Lady of Mercy, Place de la Sainte Alliance 10, 1180 Brussels. Parish of St. Anthony, Avenue des Anciens Combattants 23-25, 1950 Kraainem. Church of St. Nicolas (Bourse), Rue du Tabora 6, 1000 Brussels.

Education English-language schools in the Brussels area offer comprehensive

educational programs for school-age children according to the American or British systems. Belgian public schools offer viable educational programs and provide an opportunity for American children to learn French and Dutch. The 1993 Schools in Brussels: A Guide for U.S. Government Families contains detailed information on the educational options available in Brussels. Brussels American School (BAS) 12 John F. Kennedylaan, 1960 Sterrebeek Tel: 32 (2) 731–5626 FAX: 32 (2) 782–0230 BAS is a Department of Defense Dependents School (DODDS) sponsored institution serving the families of U.S. Government personnel, NATO personnel, embassies of NATO countries, and, on a spaceavailable basis, American citizens working for private firms. It is located on the same campus as the NATO Health Clinic, in the commune of Sterrebeek, 5 miles east of central Brussels. Several AP programs are offered in the high school. The school complex, constructed in 1967, is situated on 17 acres. It includes an administrative building, an elementary and middle school building, a high school building, a gymnasium, playing fields and tennis courts. BAS is accredited by the North Central Association of Colleges and Schools (NCA). There is a full-time guidance counselor at the school as well as a ParentTeacher-Student Organization. Free bus service is available for students who live within the BAS bus routes. International School of Brussels (ISB) Kattenberg 19, 1170 Brussels Tel: 32 (2) 672–2788 FAX: 32 (2) 675–1178 ISB, a private school on 40 acres of woodland, is located in the commune of Watermael-Boitsfort, just within Brussels city limits. The students and faculty are international. The school is divided into an early

childhood, elementary, middle, and high school, each with its own library. There is a full-day kindergarten program as well as a nursery school for 3- to 4-year-old children. An International Baccalaureate (IB) program is available at the high school. A few AP courses also are offered. Bus service is available throughout greater Brussels for an annual fee. ISB is accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Secondary Schools in the U.S., and the European Council of International Schools (ECIS). St. John’s International School Drève Richelle 146, 1410 Waterloo Tel: 32 (2) 354–1138 FAX: 32 (2) 353–0495 St. John’s is situated near the famous Waterloo battlefield, 30 minutes from the center of Brussels by car. It is an ecumenical Catholic institution with students of all faiths. St. John’s offers programs to 900 students from preschool to high school. Basically the curriculum is American, but the British General Certificate of Secondary Education and the International Baccalaureate are also offered. A limited number of AP courses are taught. Bus service is available throughout greater Brussels and is covered by the educational allowance. There is a one-time registration fee for new students. The British School of Brussels (BSB) 19 Leuvensesteenweg, 3080 Tervuren Tel: 32 (2) 767–4700 FAX: 32 (2) 767–8070 BSB follows the British national curriculum leading to the General Certificate of Secondary Education. The school is located 6 miles east of the city center. It has strong programs in the sciences, languages and arts, and offers a wide range of science and technology programs. Students from preschool to Form 13 are on one campus. 43

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The European School I 46 Vert Chasseur 1180 Brussels Tel: 32 (2) 373–8611 The European School II 75 Avenue Oscar Jespers 1200 Brussels Tel: 32 (2) 774–2211 The European Schools serve families of the European Union. There are two locations in Brussels and one in Mol, north of Brussels. The same curriculum is taught in six language sections. Some subjects are taught to composite classes of the same level. The school considers languages and its international character its biggest advantages. Primary school is a 5-year program and secondary school is 7. The European Schools charge fees to all nonEU employees. In recent years, because of severe overcrowding, the European Schools have been unable to accommodate applicants from non-EU countries. The British Primary School 6 Stationstraat, 1981 Tervuren Tel: 32 (2) 767–3098 The school is located in the rural suburb of Vossem, near Tervuren, about 20 minutes from central Brussels by car. It is housed in a contemporary brick building and has a large garden with playground equipment and a closed veranda for the nursery classes. Play, music, and art go hand-in-hand with organized free play. Brussels English Primary School (BEPS) 23 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt 1050 Brussels Tel: 32 (2) 648–4311 FAX: 32 (2) 687–2968 Brussels English Primary School (BEPS II) Rue L. Deladriere 13 1300 Limal Tel: 32 (10) 417–227 FAX: Same as BEPS I BEPS provides education according to the traditional British primary school structure. The school is 44

Norton House in Brussels

located in Ixelles near the Bois de la Cambre, 15 minutes from the center of Brussels by car. The Nursery School provides a full range of preschool activities and the children have access to a garden at the rear of the school. BEPS II is located in Limal, about 20 miles southeast of Brussels, near the city of Wavre. Other national groups operating schools in Brussels include the French, Germans, Scandinavians, and Japanese. Older students whose French or Dutch capability permits may attend many Belgian schools of high academic standing. Whether supported by private, city,

Courtesy of Melissa Doig

state, or religious funds, nearly all receive state subsidies and follow a standard curriculum. People enrolling their children in neighborhood schools pay either nominal tuition or none at all. No documents or certificates are required to enroll a child in a Belgian primary school (grades 1 to 6). Enrollment in secondary education (grades 7 to 12) requires an “Attestation d’Etudes.” This document, which must be signed by the principal of the American school the student last attended, should indicate the grade level completed and subjects taken during the last 3 years. The last report card is also required. The application for a statement of

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Cities of the World academic course equivalence is normally made by the parents, who may apply directly to the following address: Administration de l’Enseignement Secondaire, Service des Equivalences, Cite Administrative de l’Etat (Arcades), Bloc D, 5 ème ètage, bureau 55222, 1010 Brussels. Adjustment to a European school varies with the individual student’s aptitude, personality, and previous educational background. To obtain a resume of Belgian curricula, write: The Office des Publications Administration des Etudes Ministere de l’Education Nationale Cite Administrative de l’Etat (Arcades) 1010 Brussels. Brussels has good preschool facilities. Most communes have nursery school programs for which there is little or no tuition. Excellent private nursery schools charge a nominal tuition. All programs provide excellent opportunities for children to enjoy supervised play and exposure to French or Dutch.

Special Educational Opportunities There are a number of university level programs available in Belgium. Those who are interested in pursuing studies should write directly to the educational institution to request information. Vesalius College of the Free University of Brussels (VUB) offers an English-language curriculum leading to the B.A. degree, with 15 majors offered. Vesalius College is located at: 2 Pleinlaan 1050 Brussels tel: 32 (2) 629–3626 FAX: 32 (2) 629–3627 The historic Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, founded in 1425, has a wide choice of courses taught in English in several fields leading to B.A., M.A., and Ph.D. degrees. Specialized programs for post law degree

candidates are also available. Write or call: KU Leuven Dienst Internationale Relaties Universiteithal Naamsestraat 22 3000 Leuven tel: 32 (16) 284-025 or 32 (16) 284-027 Boston University Brussels is an integral part of Boston University and offers academic programs of the Metropolitan College and Graduate School. An M.A. in International Relations and an M.S. in Management are currently offered in English. Established in 1972, the school shares the facilities of the Dutch-speaking Free University, Brussels (VUB). Write or call: Boston University Brussels Font St. Landry 6 1120 Brussels tel: 32 (2) 268–0037 Local communal art and music schools offer instruction for adults and children. Advanced students might enroll at the Royal Conservatory of Music or at the High School for Architecture and Decorative Arts. Private instruction in music and art also is available in Brussels.

Sports Americans play golf at : Royal Waterloo Golf Club in Ohain; the Royal Golf Club of Belgium in Tervuren; the Golf and Business Club at Kampenhout; and the Keerbergen Golf Course at Keerbergen. Fees and dues are expensive at the first two; Kampenhout and Keerbergen are less expensive. Many golf courses in Europe restrict play to those who have a Golf Federation Card, which reflects current membership in a European golf club. If one does not have membership in a golf club, it is usually possible to play as a guest of a member. Most courses are not generally open to the public, but golf has become very popular and several new courses have opened in recent years, some with more liberal playing policies.

Soccer, field hockey, basketball, and horse racing are popular Belgian sports. But game shooting remains the traditional sport, with boar, deer, pheasant, partridge, duck, and other small game hunted. Hunting areas are strictly controlled, either by individuals or by clubs, and shooting is by invitation or by membership. Opportunities exist for camping, boating and sailing, fishing, and skiing in the Ardennes. Brussels has many indoor and outdoor tennis clubs; fees and dues vary according to the facilities. Handball courts, indoor swimming pools, new indoor rock climbing walls, and modern bowling alleys are all available and enjoy considerable popularity with Americans. For horseback riders, there are bridle paths in the Bois de la Cambre and nearby forests. The Brussels Sports Association, an English-speaking organization operated by parent volunteers, offers soccer, basketball, softball, and sanctioned Little League baseball for girls and boys, ages 6 through 15. The Brussels American School (BAS), International School of Brussels (ISB), and St. John’s International School provide junior varsity and varsity interscholastic sports programs. American football is offered only at BAS and ISB. St. John’s and ISB offer baseball. All schools have basketball and soccer programs. Skating enthusiasts enjoy roller skating in the Bois de la Cambre and ice skating at Foret National and Poseidon indoor ice rinks. Skates may be rented.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Many fine parks in Brussels offer a variety of outdoor activities. The Bois de la Cambre, a large green haven, features pleasant vistas for strolling, rowing, bicycling, horseback riding, roller skating, and miniature golf. The Parc de Tervuren has beautiful walks around lovely 45

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lakes, boating, and play areas for children. A pleasant spring and summer pastime in Belgium is “petanque” or “boule,” an outdoor game played with weighted balls in a marked-off court. It originated in the south of France and reminds Americans of a mixture of bowling and horseshoes. Swimming in indoor pools is a yearround activity in Brussels. The cool summers encourage only the hardy to venture into outdoor swimming areas. But beachcombers find the North Sea coast with its wide, sandy beaches well worth the 2-hour drive from Brussels. There are many resort areas; Ostend and Het Zoute are probably the best known and the most expensive. The season at the seashore is usually short and the water temperatures compare with those along the northern New England coast. Modern, comfortable summer cottages and apartments, as well as many reasonably priced pensions, are available in seacoast towns. In addition to the many museums and attractions found in Brussels, its central location offers unlimited sight-seeing and travel opportunit i e s, n o t o n l y i n B e l g i u m b u t throughout Europe.

Entertainment Brussels offers a full spectrum of entertainment. Opera, concerts, ballets, stage presentations (in French or Dutch), and visiting international performers provide an interesting range of cultural activities. British and American theater clubs present several productions yearly. Numerous movie theaters show films in French, English, Italian, and other languages. Usually a dozen or more American films are playing in Brussels at any one time. Most films are shown in the original language with subtitles. Inexpensive discotheques with dancing and recorded music abound in the city. The few nightclubs offering floor shows are expensive. 46

Brussels’ many good restaurants offer Belgian cooking (based on French cuisine), as well as Italian, Chinese, Serbian, Spanish, Middle Eastern, African, and other specialties. Prices range from very expensive at some outstanding restaurants to reasonable at smaller establishments. Dining out is a Belgian national pastime. Numerous small cafes do a brisk beer business day and night, and sidewalk cafes flourish in good weather. Belgian folk festival traditions with celebrations of every kind are some of Europe’s richest. Especially colorful and exciting are those of the pre-Lenten season. The Carnival of the Gilles in Binche, a Shrove Tuesday event, dates from the 16th century when Spain ruled Belgium. It features the Gilles, those men and boys of the town entitled to wear the brilliant costumes topped with towering Incainspired feathered hats. With carnival enthusiasm, the Gilles dance through the town in Indian rhythm, beating drums, shaking bells, and tossing fresh oranges to the spectators. The Ommegang in Brussels and the Procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges are other internationally famous Belgian festivals. Certain Brussels communes have public lending libraries, some of which carry a few books in English. Brussels also has excellent research and professional libraries. The Royal Library, in particular, has some valuable possessions, including manuscripts, prints, and miniatures. The British Council Library is a good source for English-language fiction and nonfiction. There is also a well-stocked library at the NATO Support Activity. There are several English-language bookstores. There are many other bookstores which carry some English-language materials. Books can be checked out from most libraries.

Social Activities Among Americans: O r g a n i z a tions within the American community include the American Club of Brussels, the American Women’s

Club, the American Chamber of Commerce, the Cub Scouts, Boy Scouts, Brownies, and Girl Scouts. All women are invited to join the American Women’s Club of Brussels (AWCB). In addition to charitable work and other community services, the AWCB organizes excursions, lectures, luncheons, and activities classes, including bridge, yoga, and Japanese flower arranging. Participating in the club and its activities provides an opportunity to meet members of the expatriate American community. Within the AWCB are international members who have been sponsored by an American. There is also an active international group within the club which meets for various activities and for cultural exchange.

International Contacts: T h e Association Belgo-Americaine offers Americans a chance to meet Belgians interested in America and in knowing Americans through luncheons, lectures, and film showings. It promotes understanding and good will. The Cercle Gaulois is a pleasant and sociable men’s club with a good restaurant. Another club is De Warande. Other organizations that welcome Americans include the Red Cross, Toastmasters, the American Theater Company, local scouting, sports and musical groups. Rotary, Lions, Kiwanis, and other service clubs are also active. Brussels has an extraordinary range of clubs and organizat i o n s, b o t h A m e r i c a n a n d international, which afford individuals an opportunity to pursue almost any type of interest during their tour here.

Special Information Belgian Telephone Numbers: The telephone numbers assigned to subscribers in Belgium by the servicing telecommunications companies consist of either a 6- or 7- digit configuration. Larger metropolitan areas normally issue 7- digit numbers; many rural and suburban

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Gilded houses on Grote Market in Antwerp

areas utilize phone numbers consisting of 6 digits. Exchanges with 7- digit phone numbers use a single digit city/local code; localities with 6- digit phone numbers have a 2- digit city/local code. The country code for all of Belgium is 32. The phone/fax numbers listed are configured to reflect the following pattern: country code (city/local code) local number For 7 digit numbers, the configuration is: 32 (##) ###-#### For 6 digit numbers, the configuration is: 32 (##) ###-###

Antwerp The European Logistical Support Office personnel (ELSO) is located in the Flemish speaking city of Antwerp in the Flanders region. Antwerp is known for both its historic and artistic legacy (the home of Rubens) as well as for its large, modern seaport. It is about 45 minutes north of Brussels by car or train, and the climate is about the same.

Religious Activities Catholic and Protestant religious services are held in English in Antwerp. Although no Jewish services are held in English in Antwerp, they are available in Brussels.

Education The Antwerp International School is located 10 km north of Antwerp in the suburb of Ekeren. It offers an American program pre-kindergarten through grade 12 culminating in either a U.S. High School accredited

diploma or the International Baccalaureate diploma. The EEC International School offers an English-language program from pre-kindergarten to grade 12 culminating in an American high school diploma of the University of Cambridge IGCSE and advanced level examinations.

Recreation and Social Life A variety of recreational opportunities exist on the local economy. A limited number of social and recreational opportunities also exist with English speaking organizations such as the American Women’s Club of Antwerp, the British Theater Arts Society, the Belgian-American Associatio n, the international schools, and the churches.

Liège Liège, whose Flemish name is Luik and German name Lüttich, is situ47

Belgium ated in eastern Belgium at the confluence of the Meuse and Ourthe Rivers, near the borders of both the Netherlands and Germany. Close to the Ardennes Plateau region, and 54 miles southwest of Brussels, Liège is the largest French-speaking city in Belgium. The city proper has about 185,000 residents. A major commercial, industrial, and transportation hub, Liège manufactures chemicals, textiles, furniture, motor vehicles, electrical and electronic equipment, and armaments. Liège was established as a bishopric in the eighth century and, by the 10th century, it was the capital of an extensive ecclesiastical state, which was part of the Holy Roman Empire until 1792. During the Middle Ages, it was an important cultural city, as well as a center for the textile and metal industries. Liège was seized by Napoleon in 1794 and was a part of France until 1815, when it was assigned to the Netherlands by the Congress of Vienna. In the 19th century, the city was the center of Walloon culture and development, which included rapid industrial growth and social unrest. The fortifications of Liège were reportedly among the strongest in Europe, but the city fell to the Germans after a 12-day siege in 1914. It suffered defeat again in World War II (May 1940). Although it was liberated by U.S. forces four years later, it had suffered extensive damage from German rockets during the Battle of the Bulge, December 1944 to January 1945. Today, Liège is, for the most part, a modern city with some splendid historic churches, houses, and museums which contribute to its popularity as a tourist spot. The Walloon Museum depicts everyday life in the 19th century, and is housed in a 17th-century convent. Among the city’s ancient buildings are two 10th-century churches and a cathedral, also built in that period. The Palais de Justice is the 16th-century palace of the bishopprinces, and has magnificent interior decorations. Liège has a university (founded in 1816), concert halls, 48

Cities of the World theaters, and an opera house where productions are presented from September to May. Twenty-five miles northwest of Liège is the secluded reserve, Bokrijk, which has a park, arboretum, rose garden, several lakes, and an open-air museum. Here at the museum is a re-creation of a typical Kempen village, with farms, stables, and one of Belgium’s oldest windmills. There are also a 12thcentury church, and 17th-century thatched-roofed homes that contain period furnishings. The Ardennes Cemetery is 11 miles southwest of Liège, near the village of Neuvilleen-Condroz. Thousands of Americans killed in the Battle of the Bulge are buried here.

Schools for Foreigners The International School of Liège is a coeducational school covering kindergarten through ninth grade. It was founded in 1967. Aspects of the U.S. and U.K. curricula are combined at International School. French is offered as a foreign language. The school year extends from September through June, with vacations at Christmas, Easter, and midterm. Currently, there are six teachers and 17 students (capacity is between 40 and 60). International School is located north of central Liège. It has five classrooms, a gymnasium, playing fields, swimming pool, and a 5,000volume library. The mailing address is boulevard Leon Philippet 7, Xhovemont, 4000 Liège, Belgium.

Ghent Ghent (Gent in Flemish, Gand in French) is the cap ital of East Flanders Province. It is situated at the confluence of the Schelde and Lys Rivers, about 35 miles northwest of Brussels. Connected with the North Sea by the Gent-Terneuzen Canal and a network of other canals, Ghent is a major port as well as the chief textile, clothing, and steel manufacturing center of

Belgium. Called the “city of flowers,” it is also the trade center of a bulb producing region. With a current population of 224,000, Ghent is Belgium’s third largest city. First mentioned in the seventh century, Ghent is one of the country’s oldest cities, developing around a fortress built by the first count of Flanders on a small island early in the 10th century. The town spread to nearby islets and today is still connected by many bridges. In medieval times, the city was a major commercial center and the seat of the counts of Flanders. Ghent had become one of Europe’s largest cities and a major wool-producing center by the 13th century; the work force was comprised primarily of weavers, fullers, shearers, and dyers at that time. Social conflicts between the workers and the upper classes were frequent. The city was the site on November 8, 1576, of the Pacification of Gent which was an alliance of the provinces of the Netherlands to drive the Spanish from the area. The modern industrialization of Ghent began with the development of its port and the establishment of textile factories early in the 19th century. The city was also the site of a treaty signed December 24, 1814, marking the end of the War of 1812. German forces occupied Ghent in both World Wars. Ghent has more historic buildings than any other city in Belgium. The landmark is the famous belfry, erected in 1300 as a symbol of freedom. Standing about 300 feet tall, the tower also has an equally famous 52-bell carillon. Despite the symbolic nature of the belfry, more travelers visit St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Built sometime between the 10th and 16th centuries, the cathedral’s architecture has both Romanesque and Gothic additions. St. Bavo’s houses several art treasures, including Hubert and Jan van Eyck’s polyptych “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb,” in a side chapel. The painting, which dates from the 15th century, is an extraordinary example of Renaissance-style use of detail and vivid color. The masterpiece is also one of the great

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The decline of Bruges began when the Flemish wool industry faltered because of foreign competition early in the 15th century. In 1490, the inlet on which the city is located beca me clog ged with silt , a nd Bruges lost its access to the sea and its outer ports. Also contributing to what would be a 300-year decline was Antwerp’s rise to prominence as a major port. The revival of Bruges began in 1895 when repairs to the port were begun; in 1907, the canal to Zeebrugge (or Brugge-on-theSea) was completed.

Street scene in Bruges

mysterie s of the art world, as experts cannot differentiate between the various parts painted by each of the brothers. Other works of art found in the cathedral are Rubens’ “Conversion of St. Bavo” and various crowns and jewels. St. Bavo’s is open daily. The architecture of Ghent blends the medieval and Renaissance styles. Narrow streets and houses built close together make the city very picturesque. Famous structures include the ruins of the Abbey of St. Bavo, dating to the seventh century; and the guild houses, located on the Graslei, built between the 12th and 16th centur i e s, a n d r e f l e c t i n g G o t h i c , Romanesque, and Renaissance styles. The city’s town hall was so long under construction that it combines Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Ghent has several other cathedrals (St. Nicholas, St. James), parks (Citadel Park), palaces (Floralia), and castles (Kasteel D’Ooidonk, castle of Laarne) of interest. St. Jorishof, built in the 15th century, is Europe’s oldest hotel; today it is widely known for its restaurant. All historic buildings are illuminated nightly from May through October. Ghent has an opera company and many fine museums. The city can be

Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

toured by boat, leaving from Vleeshuisbridge and Korenlei, and by horse-drawn cart, leaving from Korenlei and St. Baafsplein. Ghent is surrounded by begonia fields, in bloom from late July through late September.

Bruges Bruges (Brugge), situated in northwest Belgium, is the capital of West Flanders Province. Located nine miles inland, it is connected by canals to Zeebrugge and Ostend, outer ports on the North Sea. A commercial, industrial, and tourist center as well as a rail junction, Bruges manufactures textiles, lace, ships, railroad cars, electronic equipment, chemicals, and processed food. With a population of about 116,000, Bruges, known as the “city of bridges,” is 55 miles northwest of Brussels. The town was founded in the ninth century on an inlet of the North Sea and, by the 11th century, it had become a major trading center with England. In the 13th century, Bruges was one of the chief woolproducing centers in Flanders. One hundred years later, at its peak of prosperity, it was among the great commercial and financial cities of Europe, as well as the residence of the dukes of Burgundy.

Bruges was occupied by the Germans during both World Wars. Today, although its chief income comes from tourism, lace making, and horticulture, it has regained importance as a port, and new prospects in industry, technology, and commerce are now underway. A visitor to Bruges may absorb the medieval aura of the city by various modes of transportation. The sights may be viewed from a boat on one of the many canals, from a horsedrawn carriage, or from walking the ancient cobblestone streets. Most of the interesting sites are clustered around the city’s main square, the Markt. Noted structures here reflect a variety of architectural styles and include the Basilica of the Holy Blood, the town hall (Europe’s oldest, 1376), the old recorder’s house, and the baroque provost’s house. The Romanesque architecture found in the Basilica of the Holy Blood is evident in the chapel’s crypt; built between 1139 and 1149, its upper chapel was rebuilt in Gothic style in the 15th century. What are claimed to be a few drops of Christ’s blood, enclosed in a gold reliquary, were presented to the city by Derek of Alsace, count of Flanders, in 1150. On Ascension Day in Bruges, there is a procession of the Holy Blood through the city streets, along with characters and scenes from the Bible. The Church of Our Lady, although primarily Gothic, actually combines several different archit e c t u r a l s t y l e s. Pa i n t i n g s b y Gérard David and a white Carrara marble statue by Michelangelo 49

Belgium entitled “Mother and Child” are displayed. The sculpture was purchased from the artist by a wealthy Flemish burglar and is the only statue of Michelangelo’s to remain permanently outside of Italy. The 16th-century mausoleums of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy are also found in this church. Bruges offers other interesting buildings, museums, and art galleries: Belfort en Hall, the market hall or clothworkers hall, was active from the 13th through the 15th centuries. Its belfry offers visitors an excellent view of the city. A 49-bell carillon entertains here with concerts on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday evenings and on Sunday morning from mid-June through September. At the Groeningemuseum, paintings by artists of the Flemish primitive school, accounting for about 30 masterworks, as well as collections of later and contemporary art, are displayed. The Gruuthusemuseum, housed in a 15th-century palace, has interesting exhibits of Flemish lace, pottery, and furniture. The Hans Memling Museum was the medieval St. John’s Hospital, which accommodated travellers beginning in the 12th Century. Memling (1435–1494) was a painter who studied under Rogier Van der Weyden and lived in Bruges from 1465 until his death. His works exhibited at the museum include the triptych altarpiece, “The Marriage of St. Catherine” and “Shrine of St. Ursula,” which is considered one of the seven marvels of Belgium. Beautiful handmade lace i s a c e n t u r ie s - o l d i n du s t r y i n Bruges; the intricacies of creating this openwork can be studied here, and it is possible to watch the students at work with their bobbins. A profusion of small shops cater to the ever-increasing tourist demand for lace made in Bruges. From June to September, the canals and buildings in Bruges are flooded with light at night, reminding the visitor of Venice, Italy. Just seven miles beyond the city is the North Sea port of Zeebrugge, 50

Cities of the World which offers lovely beaches and water sports activities. Zeebrugge, where the ferry crosses to and from England, drew international attention in March 1987 with the tragic sinking of a passenger vessel less than a mile from the harbor. A valiant rescue effort saved many lives, but 185 are known dead, either in the frigid waters of the North Sea or trapped in the overturned boat. In the same area is the picturesque village of Lissewege. Medieval culture has been preserved here; there are windmills, a canal, low houses, a 13th-century church, and a 12thcentury abbey.

OTHER CITIES AALST, with a population of about 76,000, is situated on the Dender River, 15 miles northwest of Brussels, in western Belgium. Founded in the ninth century, the city has been occupied by the Spanish, Germans, French, and Dutch from 1056 until Belgium’s independence in 1830. Historical sites in to wn include the unfinished, Gothic style, 14th-century St. Martin Church and a statue of Thierry Martens, who established the first Belgian printing press here in 1473. ANDERLECHT, with a population of 93,000, is a residential and industrial suburb of Brussels. Situated on the Charleroi- Brussels Canal, Anderlecht was the home of Erasmus, philosopher and scholar, from 1517 to 1521. His house is now a museum. CHARLEROI is Belgium’s fifth city in size, with a population of 208,000 (greater area). It is located in southern Belgium, on the Sambre River and Charleroi-Brussels Canal. Founded in 1666 and named for Charles II of Spain, it is the center of an area that produces iron and coal. Metal, glass, and other industries are also present. An important strategic position during the 17th- and 18th-century wars, Charleroi was the site of a victorious German battle in World War I.

Today, the city has modern buildings and a technical university. Places of interest include the Industrial Exhibition Halls and the Palace of Fine Arts. Eleven miles southwest of Charleroi is the medieval village of Thuin, featuring old abbeys, hanging gardens, and a thousand-year-old tower. Six miles west of Thuin is Binche, known for its pre-Lenten Carnival and museum of carnival masks. GEEL, located about 35 miles north of the capital, is known for its homecare system for the mentally ill. It has been a treatment center for the mentally impaired since the Middle Ages. When the tomb of St. Dympna became associated with the cure of insanity, people came to Geel in large numbers. The townspeople began to board the pilgrims in their houses. In 1850, the government assumed responsibility for the system. Industries in Geel include textile and cigar factories and breweries. The city’s population is approximately 33,000. KORTRIJK (in French, Courtrai) lies on the Leie (Lys) River, about 47 miles southwest of Brussels. By the 14th century, Kortrijk was the most important cloth manufacturing town in medieval Flanders. Today, with a population of close to 76,000, Kortrijk is an important linen and textile manufacturing center. The Church of Notre Dame here contains Rubens’ “Elevation of the Cross.” The Gothic town hall dates from 1526 and currently houses the tourist office. Ten miles northeast of Kortrijk, near the town of Waregem, is Flanders Field, the cemetery where Americans killed in World War I are buried—and touchingly remembered by grateful Belgians who still honor them with floral tributes and prayers. LOUVAIN (in Flemish, Leuven), 17 miles east of Brussels on the Dijle River, was an important center of wool trade and of the cloth industry during the Middle Ages. It was the seat of the dukes of Brabant for centuries, but is best known for its university. Founded in 1425 by Pope Martin V, the university rapidly

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Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

14th century bridge in Bruges

became renowned as a center for Catholic learning. Its 800,000-volume library is considered one of the finest in the world; it was destroyed in both World Wars, and restored twice. A long-standing dispute between Belgium’s Flemish and French-speaking (Walloon) sectors resulted in the division of the university into two separate units in 1968. The Flemish-speaking University of Leuven is in the city; the French-speaking Université Catholique de Louvain is at Ottignies. Noted churches in Louvain are the 15th-century Gothic St. Pierre’s and the baroque St. Michel’s. The town hall, built in 1459 in flamboyant Gothic style, is one of the most attractive buildings in Belgium; it houses the local tourist office. Louvain’s population is about 75,000. MECHLIN (Mechelen in Flemish, Malines in French) is located on the

Dijle River in north-central Belgium, about 12 miles south of Brussels. Once a center of Flemish clothweaving and known for its lace, Mechlin today is a commercial, industrial, and transportation center, manufacturing textiles, steel, and motor vehicles. It has 77,000 residents. The city was founded early in the Middle Ages, and was a fief for the prince-bishops of Liège until 1356. Although it has been damaged several times in wars, Mechlin retains many noteworthy buildings. The Gothic cathedral of St. Rombaut is considered one of the most beautiful churches in Belgium; built in the 13th century, it has a 319-foot tower and a 49-bell carillon. Concerts are performed on Sunday, Monday, and Saturday. A bellringing school attracts carillonneurs from all over the world. The cathedral houses Van Dyke’s painting, “Crucifixion,” and paintings by Rubens. The tourist office is located

in the town hall, built in the 14th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. MONS (also called Bergen) is located in southwest Belgium near the French border. With a population of 94,000, it is the capital of Hainaut Province and the processing and shipping center of the Borinage coal mining district, as well as a manufacturing center. Charlemagne made Mons the capital of Hainaut in 840; in 1295, it was the seat of the counts of Hainaut. Mons was occupied by Dutch, Spanish, and French forces in wars of the 16th through the 18th centuries, and was the site of several battles in both World Wars. A visitor today finds winding streets, quaint buildings, and magnificent mansions, remnants of the city’s long history. The castle of the counts of Hainaut is mostly in ruins, except for some subterranean passages and the 51

Belgium chapel of St. Calixte, whose belfry contains a 47-bell carillon. Collegiate Church of St. Waudru, a late Gothic structure, has 28 chapels, 16th-century stained glass windows, and the alabaster “Annunciation” by Dubrecq. Mons is the site of an annual pageant and festival of St. George. During winter, about three or four visiting ballet and opera companies and symphony orchestras perform monthly. Excellent shopping facilities, especially food stores, are available here. The town of Casteau, near Mons, is the site of Supreme Headquarters, Allied Powers in Europe (SHAPE). NAMUR, or Namen, the capital of the eponymous province, is situated at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre Rivers in south-central Belgium. About 35 miles southeast of Brussels, and with a population of 106,000, Namur is a rail junction as well as a commercial and industrial center, producing leather goods and p o r c e l a i n . P i n k b r i c k h o u s e s, baroque churches, and lovely gardens add charm to the city. The 11th-century citadel and castle of the counts of Namur overlooks the town and may be reached by road or cable car. Other nearby castles include Corroy-le-Château, a military fortress; Mielmont (16th cent u r y ) ; a n d Fr a n c - Wa r e t ( 1 8 t h century). The baroque St. Aubin Cathedral, built in the 18th century, contains paintings by Van Dyke and Jordaens and has copies of Rubens’ w o r k . N a m u r ’s a r c h a e o l o g i c a l museum is considered one of the richest in Belgium. During summer, boat excursions may be made to Dinant in the Ardennes. The tourist office is located on Leopold Square. OSTEND (Oostende) is the largest and oldest of the Belgian cities on the North Sea coast. With a population of about 69,000, it is a major commercial and fishing port, industrial center, and seaside resort, connected by canals with Bruges and Ghent. Ostend was a port as early as the 11th century and played an important role in the Dutch struggle for independence. From May to October, it is the country’s most popular seaside resort, with a three52

Cities of the World mile beach, race track, casino, golf course, and facilities for other sports. Concerts, ballet, and other entertainment are presented at the casino during summer. Steamer trips across the channel to Dover, England, leave from Ostend’s harbor. TOURNAI (also called Doornik, in Flemish, and Tournay) is located in southwest Belgium on the Schelde River, nine miles from the French border and 43 miles from Brussels. A commercial and industrial center with a population of 68,000, Tournai manufactures textiles, carpets, and cement. One of the oldest cities in Belgium, Tournai was founded by the Romans in the third century and was destroyed in 881 by the Normans. It was part of France from 1187 to 1521, part of the Spanish Netherlands until 1714, and then was under Austrian rule. A cultural center since the 12th century, Tournai is also noted for its tapestries, china, and earthenware. The Museum of Fine Arts here displays works by Rubens, Brueghel, Manet, and others. The 13th-century belfry is the oldest in Belgium, and offers a fine view of the city. The Romanesque Cathedral of Notre Dame was built in 1171, and contains many sculptures, murals, and paintings. Château de Beloeil, 17 miles southeast of Tournai, is one of the finest castles in the province. It is complete with a moat and a garden-park. The Tournai tourist office is located at 14 rue du Vieux Marché aux Poteries, opposite the belfry. VERVIERS, located east of Liège at the foot of the Ardennes, is an industrial center manufacturing textiles and machinery. Its population is about 54,000. Surrounded by lush countryside, Verviers has an 18th-century town hall and Church of Our Lady. The castle of Franchimont, in nearby Theux, is said to be one of the oldest in Belgium. HenriChapelle Cemetery is about 12 miles north, and here, over 8,000 American military personnel killed in World War II are buried.

WATERLOO, situated south of Brussels in central Belgium, is important historically. The Battle of Waterloo, fought just to the south on June 18, 1815, was where Napoleon was defeated. Visitors may explore the battlefield; there are also several monuments and memorials to those killed in this battle. The headquarters of the duke of Wellington, who led the British forces against Napoleon, may be visited by the public. The current population of this Brabant provincial city is close to 29,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Belgium is small, about the size of Maryland, with an area of 11,799 square miles. Thirty-nine miles of Belgian seacoast line the North Sea, and 896 miles of frontier border the Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg, and France. The Meuse River and its tributary, the Sambre, divide the country into two distinct geographic regions: a level, fertile area to the north and west, and the hilly, wooded region, the Ardennes, to the south and east. The capital, Brussels, is in the center of the Kingdom. With Ghent and Antwerp, it forms a triangle enclosing the most heavily built-up and densely populated area of Belgium. More than 50 percent (4 million acres) of Belgium is still farmland; forest covers another 18 percent. Belgium’s climate is characterized by moderate temperatures, prevailing westerly winds, cloudy skies, regular but not abundant rainfall, and little snow. The weather is variable. Summer temperatures avera g e 6 0° F ( 16 ° C ) . R a r e a n n u a l extremes are 10°F (-12°C) and 90°F (33°C).

Population Belgium has 10.3 million inhabitants. The principal cities are Brus-

Belgium

Cities of the World sels (population about 959,000 for the 19 municipalities of the capital region), Antwerp (447,000), Ghent (224,000), Charleroi (201,000), Liège (186,000), Bruges (116,000), and Namur (105,000). Geographically and culturally, Belgium is at the crossroads of Europe. During the past 2,000 years, it has witnessed a constant ebb and flow of different peoples and cultures. As a result, Belgium has people of Celtic, Roman, German, French, Dutch, Spanish, and Austrian origins.

Public Institutions Belgium is a parliamentary democracy with a constitutional monarch. Although the King, Albert II, is technically the executive authority, the Council of Ministers (Cabinet) makes governmental decisions. The Council of Ministers, led by the Prime Minister, Guy Verhofstadt, holds office as long as it retains parliamentary confidence. Elections are held at least every 4 years by universal suffrage with obligatory voting and a form of proportional representation. The bicameral Parliament consists of a Chamber of Representatives and a Senate. The 150-member Chamber of Representatives is elected directly. The government ministers are responsible before the Chamber of Representatives. The Senate consists of 71 members; 40 are directly elected, 21 are appointed by the regional legislatures and 10 by fellow senators. The Senate has the right to review draft bills of the Chamber. The 1993 amended Constitution and Devolution Acts have turned Belgium into a federal state composed of three economic regions (Flanders, Wallonia, and Brussels) and three cultural communities (Flemish, French, and German-language). The present government consists of a coalition of Flemish and Francophone Social Christians (CVP/PSC) and Socialists. The judiciary is modeled after the French system. The King appoints court magistrates and court judges.

The highest court is the “Cour de Cassation.” There are 5 courts of appeal and 27 dis trict c ourt s. Courts do not pass on the constitutionality of legislation, but a special body, the Arbitration Court, rules in jurisdictional disputes opposing federal and regional legislatures. Belgium is divided into 10 provinces, with executive power in each exercised by a Governor appointed by the King.

Arts, Science, and Education Belgium is justly proud of its centuries-old artistic tradition. The country’s past is studded with the names of masters—Rubens, Brueghel, Hieronymous Bosch, Van Eyck— whose works are displayed in museums and churches throughout the country. Equally famous are such Belgian art cities as Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, and Leuven. Belgium’s art tradition does not end with the masters. James Ensor, Permeke, surrealists Rene Magritte, and Paul Delvaux are among the many considered to be outstanding 20th-century artists. Brussels is a major center for the performing arts. Its Palais des Beaux-Arts offers a wide range of dance and music programs each season. The Theater Royal de la Monnaie is home of the opera. The Festival of Flanders, organized every summer in various Belgian cities, features concerts, theater, and dance performances. Brussels also hosts the Queen Elisabeth International Music Competition. Begun in 1951, it offers material and moral support to talented young artists: pianists, violinists, and composers. Since the Middle Ages, Belgian educational institutions have been famous centers of learning. The Belgian Constitution guarantees absolute freedom of choice of education. Most schooling is state-financed from primary school to the university level. Belgian universities attract large numbers of foreign stu-

dents, including many Americans. However, since 1977 foreign students must pay higher tuition than Belgian students. The cost of this tuition varies according to the type of education (university or non-university) and even within these two subdivisions. Some exemptions from tuition exist: for the student whose parents work in Belgium and pay taxes, for the student whose parents work in an Embassy or with the European Union, for example. For those students who do have to pay, the fee varies. One should contact the educational institution to determine the charges applicable to the course of study one wishes to pursue. Also well known are Belgium’s cultural and scientific institutions, such as the Royal Observatory, the Royal Library, and the Institute of Tropical Medicine. Their valuable collections range from precious medieval manuscripts to specialized scientific collections.

Commerce and Industry Belgium is the one of the largest trading nations in the world and belongs to the G-10 group of leading financial powers. Because of the long-standing importance of trade to its economic prosperity, Belgium has been a strong supporter of liberal trade policies and participates actively in international cooperation through the Belgium-Luxembourg Economic Union (BLEU), the European Union (EU), the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), and the World Trade Organization (successor to the GATT). Exports are equivalent to about two-thirds percent of gross national product (GNP) making Belgium not only one of the highest per capita exporters in the world, but also highly dependent on the economic health of its trading partners. Belgium imports many basic or intermediate goods, adds value, and then exports final products. Most of Belgium’s foreign trade is with other EU countries, 53

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pointing up the country’s importance as a commercial axis in Europe. Lying in the heart of the European Union, Belgium stands to benefit greatly from the developing single market. Belgium and the U.S. have strong reciprocal trade relations. Belgium is blessed with an excellent transportation network of ports, railroads, and highways. Major U.S. air cargo carriers have created one of the first and perhaps only European hub operation. Belgium has t h r e e li n g u i s t i c c o m m u n i t i e s : French, Dutch, and German. This diversity, combined with its history, location, and small, manageable size, makes the country an excellent test market and subsequent launching pad for the European operations of U.S. businesses. The Belgian market is highly competitive. Generous social payments help maintain a high standard of living but contribute to an unemployment level stuck at about 8 percent for several years. The Belgian Government believes that the country’s future economic prosperity is tied closely to the European Economic and Monetary Union (EMU). Belgium became a first-tier member of the EMU on May 1, 1998. It introduced the euro as common currency in 1999. First used mainly by financial institutions, the euro became the country’s only currency in 2002.

Transportation Local Brussels has an extensive public transportation network comprised of buses, trams (streetcars), and an underground rapid transit (metro) system. Special 10-ride and monthly or yearly tickets for combined Brussels transport facilities are available and afford great savings over the cost of one-ride tickets. Trains run frequently and on schedule. Taxis are fairly expensive, but the service charge or tip is included in the metered fare.

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Regional Brussels National Airport (in Zaventem) is a major international air terminal. American carriers and Sabena fly between Brussels and several major U.S. cities. Additional air connections to anywhere in the world can be made through London, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and Paris, which are all less than an hour’s flight from Brussels. Excellent rail and highway systems link Belgium to adjoining countries and provide direct routes to major European cities. There are numerous “auto routes” (limited-access divided highways) which cross Belgium, connecting it to the main cities of Europe. There are no toll roads in Belgium and it is particularly easy to drive after dark because all major highways are illuminated at night, in part because of frequent fog.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone and telegraph services to and from Belgium are comparable to those in the U.S. Direct-dial service is available to the U.S. and most European countries. All Tri-Mission leased housing is equipped with one telephone. Additional extensions are at personal expense. Portable phones can be used but U.S. models require a transformer, which can be purchased locally. Monthly costs and long-distance rates are generally more expensive than in the U.S., as are charges for trans-Atlantic calls. Rates through U.S.-based telephone companies and call-back services may be cheaper than local carrier rates. Competition among carriers and services is driving prices downward.

Radio and TV Belgian radio and TV systems are government-owned with a few commercial channels. French- and Dutch- language stations are separate. Dutch-language TV often carries American and British programs in English with Dutch subtitles. Most American and British pro-

grams on French TV are dubbed. BBC has two channels available on most cable systems. Cable TV provides a variety of programs in French, Dutch, German, Italian, and English. The Armed Forces Network (AFN) broadcasts television and radio programs 24 hours a day in Belgium. Stations are located in Everberg (near NATO headquarters) and at SHAPE. Transmitted live by satellite, AFN television features popular sporting events and current American TV programs. A special antenna, which can be purchased locally, is required to receive AFN.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals La Libre Belgique, Le Soir, and La Derniere Heure are the most widely read French-language dailies published in Brussels. Het Laatste Nieuws and De Standaard are the most popular Dutch-language newspapers published in Brussels. London and Paris papers, including The Times, Daily Telegraph, Le Monde, and Le Figaro, are sold in Brussels on the day of publication. The Bulletin, an English-language magazine catering to the substant i a l A n g l o p h o n e c o m m u n i t y, appears every Thursday. Prospects is a monthly English magazine covering Belgian business topics. The International Herald Tribune and the European editions of the Wall Street Journal and USA Today are sold the day of publication at Brussels newsstands or by subscription. Several American periodicals, many of them European editions, are available on Brussels newsstands.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Many Belgian hospitals compare very favorably with good American

Belgium

Cities of the World hospitals. They are well-equipped to handle emergency situations, as well as long-term care.

Community Health Public health standards are equal to those in the U.S. Brussels has modern sewage and refuse disposal systems and water purification facilities. Tap water has a high calcium content, but is safe to drink. Dairy, meat, and other food products are safe.

Preventive Measures Individuals should keep their immunizations current against typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, and polio. The climate is sometimes uncomfortable for those who suffer from sinus conditions or respiratory ailments. Colds are common in winter. Epidemic diseases are rare and are treated efficiently by Belgian public health authorities.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Most travelers from the U.S. arrive at the Brussels National Airport at Zaventem. Visas are not required for Americans transiting or visiting Belgium, as long as the stay is less than 3 months. Travelers who will remain in Belgium more than 3 months must obtain a visa from a Belgian consulate in the country in which they reside prior to entering Belgium. Dogs or cats entering Belgium from the U.S. are not quarantined. Belgian law requires a certificate of good health and a valid rabies certificate dated not less than 1 month and not more than 12 months before departure from the U.S. Transportation of pets, including birds of the parrot order, from other geographical areas is subject to various frequently changing regulations.

Belgium’s currency is the euro. No currency restrictions affect the import, export, purchase, sale, or use of American or European currencies. Purchases on the local economy are made with the euro. VISA and Mastercard are accepted by many local businesses, and ATM’s are found throughout Belgium. Belgium uses the metric system.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Belgium Labor Day May 24 . . . . . . . . . Ascension Day May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday* July 23 . . . . . . . . . Belgium Independence Day Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints' Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided to give a general idea of the material published on Belgium. The Department of State does not accept responsibility for the accuracy of any information in the following publications. Baedeker’s Brussels. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, latest edition. Belgium and EC Membership Evaluated. London: Pinter, 1992. Belgium in Pictures. Minneapolis: Lerner Publications, 1991.

Carson, Patricia. Flanders in Creative Contrasts. Leuven, Belgium: Davidsfonds, 1990. An in-depth look at the Flemish: their roots, history, culture, values, evolution and contributions within Belgium and beyond its borders. Beautiful pictorial presentation accompanies the text. Flynn, G. NATO’s Northern Allies: The National Security Policies of Belgium, the Netherlands, Norway, and Denmark. Totowa, NJ: Rowman, 1985. Fodor’s Belgium & Luxembourg. New York: McKay, 1991. Hazlewood, Carole. Long Stays in Belgium-Luxembourg. United Kingdom: David & Charles (dist. in U.S. by Hippocrene Books), 1987. Hill, H. Constance. Fi e ld in g’s Benelux 1992: Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg. New York: Fielding Travel Books, 1991. Keyes, Roger. Outrageous Fortune: The Tragedy of Leopold III of the Belgians, 1901–1941. London: Secker & Warburg, 1984. Historical biography of King Leopold and an examination of the social and political conditions in Belgium during World War II (1939– 1945). MacRae, Kenneth Douglas. Conflict and Compromise in Multilingual Societies: Belgium. Waterloo, Canada: Wilfrid Laurier University, 1986. Discusses multilingualism in Belgium and its effects on politics, government, and social conditions. Matthijs, Koen. The Belgians. Tielt: Lannoo, 1992. This book examines the history of Belgian civilization. Neuburg, Victor. A Guide to the Western Front: A Companion for Travelers. New York: Viking Penguin, 1989. Simonet, Henri. Belgium in the Postwar Period: Partner and Ally. Washington: Georgetown University, 1981. Examines Belgium’s role in the North Atlantic Treaty

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Belgium Organization and in national security matters. Stein, George J. Benelux Security Cooperation: A New European Defense Community? Boulder, Colorado: Westview, 1990. Mili-

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Cities of the World tary relations, military policy and national security in Belgium, Luxembourg, and the Netherlands. Wickman, Stephen B. Belgium: A Country Study. Washington, DC:

U.S. Government Printing Office, 1985. 1951–1991: Image of an Age. Brussels: Palais des Beaux-Arts, 1991. A close look at Belgium under Baudouin I, King of the Belgians.

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Major City: Sarajevo Other Cities: Banja Luka, Bihaé, Jajce, Mostar, Tuzla

INTRODUCTION BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA is one of the former republics in the old six-member Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Beginning in late March 1992, a civil war erupted throughout Bosnia with ethnic Serb guerrillas and allies in t h e S e r b - d o m i n a t e d Yu g o s l a v National Army fighting Moslem Slavs and ethnic Croats over proposed independence from Yugoslavia. Ethnic Serbs living in Bosnia feared that Serb political and civil rights would be violated in an independent Bosnian state. In early April 1992, Bosnia and Herzegovina declared its independence from Yugoslavia. Throughout 1992 and early 1993, vicious ethnic warfare continued in Bosnia. By early 1993, Serbian forces controlled roughly 70 percent of Bosnia. Although all sides have committed atrocities against civilians, the Serbs were accused by the United Nations, the European Community, and the United States of the rape of thousands of non-Serbian women and creating large prison camps where prisoners were tortured and executed. The Serbs also implemented a policy of “ethnic cleansing,” which involves the forcible deportation of non-Serbs from Serbian-controlled areas. All of these actions by the Serbs led to widespread condemna-

tion from the world community. In March 1993, the United States airdropped relief supplies to Muslim towns under siege by Serbian forces. Also in March 1993, the United Nations Security Council authorized the imposition of a no-fly zone over Bosnia and Herzegovina. In July 1995, Bosnian Serbs overran UN-protected “safe areas.” NATO leaders initiated air raids, and Serbs lifted their siege of Sarajevo. In September 1995, leaders of Serbia, Croatia, and Bosnia agreed to a new governmental structure for Bosnia and Herzegovina. In November 1995, the presidents of Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia signed a U.S.sponsored peace agreement in Dayton, Ohio. The first elections under the Dayton accord were held in December 1996. Editor’s Note: The city and country profile information contained in this entry reflect the conditions in Bosnia and Herzegovina prior to the outbreak of civil war in 1992.

MAJOR CITY Sarajevo Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is situated in a valley near the Miljacka River. In 1998,

Sarajevo and its metropolitan area had a combined population of estimated at 496,000. However, data dealing with population numbers has been subject to error because of dislocation from the civil war. Sarajevo is the government, commercial, and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Several major industrial firms are located either in or near the city. Industries in Sarajevo include communications plants, a furniture factory, a brewery, a tobacco factory, and a sugar beet refinery. The University of Sarajevo is here, as are the Bosnian Assembly and the republic’s government, and both the Bosnian National Theater and National Museum. Socially and culturally, Sarajevo still maintains much of the flavor of its Turkish past—the area was occupied by Turkey for almost 500 years. Among the more than 70 mosques in the city, the largest is the Gazi Husref Bey Mosque. Constructed in the 16th century, the Gazi Husref Bey Mosque is a beautiful structure adorned with tiled walls, exquisite Persian carpets and prayer rugs, and a large domed ceiling. The Gazi Husref Bey Mosque also has one of oldest known copies of the Koran. 57

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Courtesy of Melissa Doig

Principov Most (Princip’s Bridge in Sarajevo)

During much of the year, Sarajevo is covered in a gray mist, and its dark, cobblestone streets and winding river give it an Old World feeling. The fascinating central bazaar and ubiquitous coffee houses add to the atmosphere. Awarded to Austria-Hungary in 1878 by the Congress of Berlin, Sarajevo remained under Austrian rule until 1918, when it became part of Yugoslavia. It was the scene of the street-corner assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand on June 28, 1914—an act which precipitated World War I. During the Second World War, the city was occupied for four years by the Germans. Sarajevo was heavily damaged during World War II, but was extensively rebuilt. Sarajevo was the site of the 1984 Winter Olympics. No English-language education is available in Sarajevo. Association with other Americans is not exten58

sive, since only a few U.S. citizens live here. There is an authorized source of foreign information. In Serbo-Croatian, it is known as the Ameriéki Center. During the civil war, Sarajevo was under siege by Serbian forces. Artillery and sniper attacks were launched almost daily against Sarajevo from the surrounding hillsides, causing heavy civilian casualties and destroying many buildings. The city’s electrical, transportation, sanitation, and telecommunications systems were decimated.

Recreation and Entertainment Travelers can use three tennis courts in the summer. No other public recreational facilities are available, but hiking and horseback riding can be arranged. The mountains of Bosnia offer extensive opportunities for touring, fishing, hiking, and hunting. Overnight camping is allowed only in designated camping areas. Hunting and

fishing permits are required, and big-game hunting (deer, bear, etc.) can be expensive. The Adriatic coast, only four hours from Sarajevo by car, offers excellent resorts. Ocean fishing is allowed without permit. The National Theater of Bosnia provides a full season (September to May) of opera, drama, and symphony concerts. Movie theaters show late-release films from many countries, with about 60 percent of the films in English. Sarajevo has a number of museums that are of interest to visitors. The Museum of the Young Bosnia Movement (Muzejmlade Bosne) contains exhibits of photographs and personal artifacts of Gavrilo Princip, the man responsible for the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Princip and his colleagues have long been regarded as national heroes in Bosnia. Two footprints, believed to mark the spot from which Princip shot the Archduke,

Bosnia–Herzegovina

Cities of the World are located outside of the museum. Another museum, the Regional Museum (Zemaljski Muzej), contains Roman relics, medieval tombstones, and ethnographic exhibits which chronicle the folklore of Bosnia. The Regional Museum also has excellent natural history and archaeological exhibits and a beautiful botanical garden. The Jewish Museum (Muzej Jevreja) details the arrival of Jews in Sarajevo in 1550 and has several exhibits of Jewish life in Bosnia. The museum contains a book entitled “Twelve Thousand Dead,” which lists the names of Jews killed during World War II by the Nazis and their collaborators.

OTHER CITIES BANJA LUKA is situated on the Vrbas River in northern BosniaHercegovina. The city is thought to date back to a Roman fort, but was historically important during the sixteenth through eighteenth centuries when it was the site of several battles between the Turks and the Austrians. Although Banja Luka was struck by an earthquake in 1969, the city retains several of its Turkish vestiges. The old fortress, Kastel, is of special interest; Dzamija Ferhadija, the mosque of FerhatBeg, is one of Bosnia’s best examples of Turkish architecture, with its decorative arabesques and inscriptions from the Koran. Today, Banja Luka manufactures leather goods; industries include an iron factory. The city has wide, tree-lined streets and attractive parks. There are thermal springs in the area. Banja Luka is a good starting point for trips through the scenic Vrbas Valley, south of the town of Jajce. Banja Luka had an estimated population of 179,000 in 2002. The city of BIHAÉ is situated in northwestern Bosnia and Herzegovina on the banks of the Una River. Bihaé was founded in 1260 and was controlled at various times in history by Hungarians and Turks. Today, Bihaé is the home of productive textile and timber industries.

JAJCE, located in north-central Bosnia and Herzegovina, has been occupied at various times in history by the Turks, Hungarians, and Austrians. The city is now a tourist center with Turkish wooden water mi lls, medieval fortificat ions, mosques, and Oriental-style houses that are of interest to visitors. Jajce has an important chemical manufacturing industry. Situated 50 miles southwest of S a r a j e v o, M O S T A R i s o n t h e Neretva River in western Bosnia and Herzegovina. Formerly the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Sarajevo is its capital today), Mostar is the chief town in the area, surrounded by vineyards. The city produces wine, textiles, and tobacco. Mostar has many examples of Turkish architecture, built in 1566. It features a tower on each end and a stone bridge that arches nearly 30 yards across Neretva River. Mostar is a good starting point for excursions into the surrounding countryside. At Pocitelj, 19 miles southwest, there is an interesting combination of Mediterranean and Turkish buildings. In Radimlja, 25 miles southeast, is the necropolis of the heretical Bogomils, an orthodox sect, whose elaborately carved tombstones—stecci—are among the most beautiful of their kind. In 2002, Mostar had an estimated population of 120,000. TUZLA, located 50 miles northnortheast of Sarajevo, is noted for its salt mines. The city was founded in the 10th century and was controlled throughout history by the Turks and Hungarians and became a part of Yugoslavia in 1918. Tuzla is a transportation and trading center for the surrounding region.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Bosnia and Herzegovina is a triangular-shaped land located in the

heart of the old Yugoslav federation. The country is surrounded on three sides by Croatia and is bordered on the east by Serbia and the southeast by Montenegro. Bosnia and Herzegovina is nearly landlocked and has a coastline of only 12 miles (20 kilometers). The topography of Bosnia and Herzegovina consists primarily of mountains and forests. However, the country also has fertile valleys which contain arable land. Several rivers, the Drina, Bosna, Una, and Vrbas, are located within Bosnia and Herzegovina. The country is subject to frequent and destructive earthquakes. Bosnia and Herzegovina’s climate is generally characterized by hot summers and cold winters. In areas of high elevation, summers tend to be short and cold while winters are long and severe. Along Bosnia and Herzegovina’s small Adriatic coast, winters are mild and rainy.

Population In 2001, Bosnia and Herzegovina had an estimated population of 3,922,000. Of this total, approximately 31 percent were Serb, 44 percent were Bosniak, and 17 percent were percent ethnic Croat. All three ethnic groups speak SerboCroatian (often called Bosnian), which is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s official language. Three different religions are practiced within Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosnian Croats are predominantly Roman Catholic, while Bosnian Serbs are typically adherents of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Bosnian Muslims are generally members of the Sunni sect. Approximately four percent of Bosnians belong to Protestant denominations.

Government Under the Dayton accords of 1995, a constitution for Bosnia and Herzegovina was established that recognized a single state with two 59

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Courtesy of Melissa Doig

Homes on hillside in Mostar

constituent entities. The Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (FBH) incorporates the 51 percent of the country with a Bosnian Muslim and Bosnian Croat majority, while the Republika Srpska (RS) occupies the 49 percent of the country with a Bosnian Serb majority. The constitution calls for a central government with a bicameral legislature and a three-member presidency comprised of a member of each ethnic group. The constituent government of the FBH utilizes a parliament and a presidentiallyappointed prime minister, currently Zlatko Lagumdzija, while the RS has a proportionally-elected parliament and two vice-presidents who serve under the president. The flag of Bosnia and Herzegovina consists of a yellow triangle on a royal blue field, with a row of white stars arranged on the diagonal. 60

Commerce and Industry Bosnia and Herzegovina ranked next to Macedonia as the poorest component in the old Yugoslav federation. Traditionally, agriculture has been the mainstay of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s economy. The foothills of northern Bosnia support orchards, vineyards, livestock, and some wheat and corn production. Although agriculture has been almost all in private hands, farms have been small and inefficient. Therefore, Bosnia has been forced over the years to import roughly half of its food needs. Several manufacturing industries are located in Bosnia and Herzegovina. These industries produce wooden furniture, textiles, carpets, tobacco products, and automobiles. Bosnia and Herzegovina had a large armaments industry. Bosnia and Herzegovina is rich in minerals, particularly coal, iron ore, zinc,

manganese, lead, and bauxite. This mineral wealth led to the development of a productive mining industry. The war’s destruction caused the gross domestic product (GDP) to drop 75 percent. Since 1995, trade has increased in the Croat and Muslim areas. Reconstruction programs initiated by the international community have financed the construction of infrastructure and provided loans to the manufacturing sector.

Transportation The quality of roadways in Bosnia and Herzegovina ranges from generally good to poor. Bosnia and Herzegovina’s principal highway stretches 113 miles (183 kilometers) from Sarajevo to the Adriatic coast. Trips to Zagreb (Croatia) and Belgrade (Serbia) can be made only on rough secondary roads. Bus service is available between Sarajevo and

Bosnia–Herzegovina

Cities of the World Mostar. In 2000, Bosnia and Herzegovina had a total of 13,569 miles (21,846 kilometers) of roadway. Of this total, 64 percent were paved. Train service is available between Sarajevo and Mostar, and between Mostar and the Croatian city of Kardeljevo. Railway links connect Sarajevo with Belgrade and Zagreb. Sarajevo has an international airport located approximately six miles (10 kilometers) southwest of the city.

Communications Bosnia’s telephone and telegraph network is in need of modernization and expansion, with many urban areas being below average compared with services in other former Yugoslav republics. Communications and capabilities in Sarajevo and other Bosnian cities were nearly destroyed during the country’s civil war. There are no English-language newspapers, periodicals, or books published in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Radio and television broadcasts are controlled by Radio-Television Sarajevo. All broadcasts are in SerboCroatian. Bosnia and Herzegovina uses the metric system.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Although the U.S. government recognized the independence of Bosnia and Herzegovina on April 7, 1992, the Department of State continues to warn U.S. citizens not to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina at this

time because of widespread fighting t h r o u g h o u t t h e c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State strongly recommends that U.S. citizens in Bosnia and Herzegov ina c onsider leaving the country as soon as possible. A state of violence resulting in deaths, destruction, food shortages, and travel disruptions affecting roads, airports, and railways make travel anywhere in the country extremely hazardous. In particular, the Department of State advises against travel to western Herzegovina, including West Mostar, Livno, and Grude, all of which are located in areas which have seen heavy fighting. An estimated one million unmarked landmines still remain throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. Special care should be taken near former confrontation lines. Travelers should be aware that there is no direct air service between the U.S. and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Commercial service is limited, and travelers should be prepared for delayed and canceled flights. An increased number of cases of the disease "Q Fever" has been reported recently in various areas of Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is an animal disease which can infect humans through raw or undercooked meat, unpasteurized dairy products, and dust from areas where infected animals, mostly sheep, goats and cattle, are found. Bosnia and Herzegovina has a cash economy; credit cards are rarely accepted. Traveler’s checks may be cashed at major banks, but often with a delay of three to four weeks. The official currency is the convertible mark, but German marks are accepted in most shops. The U.S. has recently opened an Embassy in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. U.S. citi-

zens experiencing difficulties in Bosnia and Herzegovina should contact the U.S. Embassy for assistance. All U.S. citizens who remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina despite this warning are urged to register their whereabouts with the U.S. Embassy, including an emergency telephone number so that attempts can be made to contact them if necessary. The U.S. Embassy in Sarajevo is located at Alipasina 43; telephone: 445-700.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1/2 . . . . . . . . .New Year's Day March 1 . . . . . . . . .Independence Day May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day May 9 . . . . . . . . . . .Victory Day Nov. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Day of the Republic

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Andric, Ivo. The Development of Spiritual Life in Bosnia under the Influence of Turkish Rule. Edited and translated by Zelimir B. J u r i c i c a n d J o h n F. L o u d . Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1991. Eastern Europe and the Commonwealth of Independent States 1992. London: Europa Publications, Ltd., 1992. Manuel, D. Medjugorje under Siege. Brewster, MA: Paraclete Press, 1992.

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Sofia, Bulgaria

BULGARIA Republic of Bulgaria

Major Cities: Sofia, Plovdiv, Varna Other Cities: Burgas, Pleven, Ruse, Shumen, Sliven, Stara Zagora, Tolbukhin

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Bulgaria. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The Bulgarian lands are an historic crossroads that to this day preserve evidence of many ancient civilizations and peoples: bronze and iron spears and arrows, ruins of classical temples, palaces, and cities, wise words carved on rocks and stone columns or written on parchment and leather. In the mid-17th century, early Slavic tribes came from the north, crossing the Danube river and reaching as far as the Black Sea and the Adriatic. They were followed by the Bulgars of Khan Asparuh. The first Bulgar state was founded in 681 A.D. as an alliance between the Bulgars and the Slavs. In 862 the Saints Cyril and Methodius created the first Slavic alphabet-

the Glagolitsa. At the end of the 9th century another Bulgarian alphabet was created-the Cyrillic alphabet, which later was spread beyond the boundaries of Bulgaria. The Cyrillic script is still used in Bulgaria, Serbia, Ukraine, Russia, and other Slavic nations. In 865, under the reign of Prince Boris I, the Bulgarians converted to O r t h o d o x C h r i s t i a n i t y, w h i c h consolidated the country. The first Bulgarian kingdom reached its height during the reign of Tsar Simeon 1 (893-927). This era is known as the “Golden Age of Bulgaria” and is associated with the flourishing of literature, arts, and handicrafts. After a period of 167 years under Byzantine control (11th-12th centuries), Bulgaria reestablished itself as a state under the reign of Tsar Peter. During the 13th century, the Bulgarian state stabilized and its boundaries expanded to the Black, White, and Adriatic seas. In the middle of the 14th century, armies of the Ottoman Empire began raids into Bulgaria and finally conquered it in 1396. For the next five centuries Bulgaria remained under Ottoman rule. During this period over 400 uprisings broke out across the country, but all were suppressed. The second half of the 18th century marked the beginning of a Bulgarian national renaissance, which

extended through the next century. Numerous schools were opened, textbooks in Bulgarian were printed, and teachers were trained. The Bulgarian Church regained its independence from the Greek Orthodox Church, replaced the clergy, and established an independent exarchate. The revolutionary movement organized across Bulgaria culminated in an uprising in 1876. The subsequent Russo-Turkish war led to the liberation of Bulgaria and the signing of the San Stefano Peace Treaty on March 3, 1878. Bulgaria became a principality which was nominally under Ottoman control, but in fact acted as an independent state. The Berlin Congress of the Great Powers, held in June-July 1878, annulled the San Stefano Peace Treaty and split up Bulgaria. The northern region (Principality of Bulgaria) and southern region (East Rumalia) were unified in 1885 by Prince Alexander Batenberg. In 1908 Bulgaria became a fully independent constitutional monarchy, which survived to the end of WW II. Bulgaria fell under the Soviet sphere of influence, became a People's Republic, and a loyal Soviet satellite beginning in 1946. Communist domination ended in 1989. In the early 1990s, Bulgaria began the contentious process of moving 63

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toward political democracy and a market economy.

MAJOR CITIES Sofia Sofia, the political, economic, cultural, and administrative center of the country, is a city where large parks and attractive older buildings blend with modern high-rises. Sofia is situated on a plain 1,830 feet high. Ten miles to the north lie the Balkan Mountains (Stara Planina), and just to the south is Mount Vitosha (7,000 feet), which is a national park and a popular hiking and skiing area. Behind Mt. Vitosha, near the resort town of Borovetz, lies Mt. Musala, the highest peak in Bulgaria (9,650 feet).

Utilities Electricity is 220v, 50-cycle, single phase. The current is erratic, with frequent voltage fluctuations (as much as 10%) and occasional breaks in service. When repairs are taking place at the power station, regular power breaks occur, which are announced in advance. The city water supply, to which all apartments are connected, has frequent interruptions. Water pressure often fluctuates or is low on upper floors. Many buildings have an insufficient or inconsistent hot water supply that is centrally controlled. Each summer for about 3 weeks, sometimes less in the diplomatic apartments, the hot water is turned off to clean the wate r pipe s. This is announced in advance. Heating is supplied through a centralized citywide system, which means that one cannot regulate one's own apartment temperatures.

Food There has been a great improvement in food availability in Bulgaria following economic liberalization. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are always offered at the markets, as well as some hardy, less seasonal imports. Meat and poultry are always available but are not cut and 64

prepackaged American-style. Frozen vegetables on the local market do not look particularly appetizing, but American and Turkish brands are available at the commissary. Finding good fresh or frozen fish is still a problem, but some people report that they have found sources. The present exchange rate makes local produce reasonable for foreigners, and the sources of supply have increased. Many private shops and small supermarkets have opened recently, stocking a good variety of imported items as well as local products. There are now two “Metro” stores in Sofia that are of the size and variety of a Price Club-type store. These stores are more like warehouses and sell everything from wine to lawn furniture. This is pretty close to a one-stop-shop, since you can buy food, household appliances and furnishing, clothing, diapers, products for your office, and even automotive supplies. Open or covered farmers' markets offer a rich assortment of local and imported produce all year around, although you may not be able to find your favorite fruits or vegetables. The larger vegetable markets are open every day of the week. Local dairy products, meats, and dry goods are found in corner groceries.

Clothing You will need approximately the same kinds of clothing here as for the U.S. Winters are generally long and cold while summers are shorter, cooler, and dry. You should bring warm winter clothing, especially if you intend to take advantage of the winter sports opportunities available here. The cobblestone streets can be hard on shoes. For women, closed-toe shoes with low or moderate heels are better than sandals or highheeled shoes for most of the year, although many young Bulgarian women wear the latest platform high heels even on the cobblestones. Bulgarians are quite proud of their locally made shoes and boots, which are available all over town, and imported shoes and boots are also

easy to find for adults. For children's shoes and boots most people still either shop in Greece or Turkey or buy from American catalogs. Office clothing is similar to that of the U.S., though those who regularly use public transportation may dress slightly less formally. More and more upscale sports and fashion shops are opening, and the Bulgarian clothing industry produces many attractive items. But in general it is still difficult to find what you want with regards to style and fabric in the size you want, so most people buy clothing at home or from catalogs. In the last few years it has become much easier to find baby clothing, but parents with 10-12-year-olds report that

Domestic Help Both full-time and part-time Bulgarian servants are available. All live out, and few speak English well. Normal work hours are Monday t h r o u g h F r i d a y, w i t h s p e c i a l arrangements made for weekends and holidays. Rates vary widely depending on the contract, 36.7% of that amount is given in addition for social security, unemployment and health insurance. It is also customary to give servants a gift at the end of the year; an extra month's wages is expected. For extra help at cocktails, lunches, and dinner parties, you can hire cooks, bartenders, and waiters. Evening babysitters cost about $2 an hour, plus taxi fare.

Religious Activities Most churches in Bulgaria are Bulgarian Orthodox. Anyone may attend services at these churches, including the Alexander Nevski Cathedral, to hear the famous unaccompanied choir. This is especially interesting at Chri stmas and Eas ter. The former regime encouraged atheism; this is no longer the case, and now

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Street in Sofia, Bulgaria

many foreign missionary groups are active. There is a resident chaplain at the British Embassy in Bucharest who holds Episcopal services periodically in the Fox Club, in the British Embassy residence building. The papal nunciature holds Roman Catholic services in English Sundays at 11:00 am, and St. Joseph's Catholic Church holds services in Polish, Bulgarian, and Latin at different times on Sundays. The International Baptist Church holds English services Sunday at 11:00 am in the basement of the World Trade Center; Sunday School at 10:00 am; and Bible study and prayer group meetings, as well as nursery service, during the 11:00 am service. Branches of the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints and a Sephardic Jewish Synagogue with worship are also present in Sofia.

© Sandro Vannini/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Education The Anglo-American School in Sofia (AAS), a PK-8 school established by the American and British to the south of Sofia. Embassies in 1967, takes children primarily of the two embassies; other international children and a limited number of Bulgarians are given places as space permits. The school is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools. The school has a specific commitment to focus on curricula, resources, and methodologies that relate to the mainstreams of education in the U.S. and the United Kingdom. The director is British, and the teachers are mostly American or British. The AAS of Sofia is governed by a Board of Directors, consisting of nine members; four members are appointed by the British Ambassador, and four by the American Ambassador, with the PTO presi-

dent serving as a full board member. The AAS is located on the campus of the American College of Sofia in Mladost. At present, about 140 children from 30 different countries are enrolled. The school operates a preschool for children who are already 4 years old; it also offers an intensive ESL program, remedial reading and writing, a study skills program, a standardized testing program, French, music, art, after-school activities, field trips inside and outside Bulgaria, and an annual ski week on Mount Vitosha. There are classroom computers and an extensive library. The school does not have any special separate provision for children designated as gifted and talented or as learning-disabled beyond what is listed above. Provision is made for individual differences by the teachers within the normal favorable classroom situation. Classes on average have 20 or fewer pupils. The annual edu65

Bulgaria cational allowance covers tuition and bus service. Classes begin in late August and end in mid-June. Places are limited, so if you wish to enter a child, write as early as possible. The school will hold seats open. The address is: The Director, The Anglo-American School of Sofia American Embassy Sofia Department of State, 5740 Sofia Place Washington, DC 20521-5740. The American College of Sofia, a private high school blending aspects of the Bulgarian and American educational systems, graduated its first class in 1997 after being shut down for 50 years under the Communist government. Most students are Bulgarian, with a minority of Americans and other internationals. A preparatory year, equivalent to the 8th grade, is used almost entirely to teach the entering Bulgarians English. In subsequent years students are taught math, philosophy, four sciences, including computer science, and languages and arts. American teens have attended ACS and have received an excellent education there. Also, in the past, a few American teenagers have studied in the Bulgarian special-language high schools, where the language of instruction is either English, French, Russian, or German. Not all classes are held in the designated language and, of those classes given in English, the level is naturally most suitable for ESL students. Students beyond the 8th grade also have taken the University of Nebraska home study program. This requires active parent participation.

Special Educational Opportunities Besides the Anglo-American School of Sofia, there are other opportunities for young children. The International Children's Creativity Centre (ICCC) is open to children aged 2 to 4, who attend the Centre two, three, or five mornings a week to play and learn using the English language. The ICCC Board is made up of five members, some of whom are parents of children registered at the 66

Cities of the World Centre. The Centre has enjoyed a good reputation since its inception.

ble good stables on the outskirts of Sofia.

The American English Academy offers courses in English for prekindergarten through 12th grade. The academy is accredited by ACSI in Colorado Springs, and the parents of children attending the academy are very pleased with the education their children are receiving. There is a religious affiliation, but no religion is taught. The textbooks and curriculum are American, and the president and at least half the teachers are American.

Good locally produced and imported sports equipment and clothing is becoming more available in shops all over Sofia, although for the newest styles and equipment you may still have to shop elsewhere.

The American University of Bulgari is located just 100 kilometers south of the capital city of Sofia.All instruction is in English, and the faculty is over 60% American. The University of Maine, the U.S. partner, provides accreditation and assists with curriculum development. There is a French Government Lycee which welcomes children of all nationalities. Its students are eligible to specialize in baccalaureates in the sciences, literature, or social sciences. The program is rigorous and highly valued at American Universities, which often offer 1 year or more of advanced credit to holders of the Baccalaureate.

Sports Skiing is a very popular winter sport, and prices for rental equipment and lift tickets are well below those in Western Europe. Sledding and winter hiking are also popular, with Vitosha Mountain right at the doorstep. There is a Hash House Harrier group, which organizes regular weekend runs and walks. Hiking on the Vitosha Mountain is popular. For the more adventurous sports enthusiasts, Bulgaria has a selection of mountain ranges from which to choose. Hiking, spelunking, hang gliding, kayaking and rock climbing opportunities exist. Fitness centers are becoming more popular and there are several indoor and outdoor swimming pools in the city. There are several reputa-

Touring and Outdoor Activities Within the city there are many fascinating museums to visit as well as several buildings of historical and cultural significance. Organized tours are available from Sofia to visit the many delightful points of interest in the country, including the nearby Rila Monastery and the town of Koprivshitsa, one of 14 designated museum towns. The Boyana Church, one site not to be missed, is located just outside of Sofia. This church contains frescoes that date from the 12th and 13th centuries and are of unusual interest to art in- and out-of-country travel opportunities. Many families drive fairly regularly to the Greek and Turkish coastal resorts and/or to Thessaloniki and Istanbul for shopping and pleasure. Bucharest is an eight-hour drive from Sofia via the Bulgarian city of Ruse on the Danube.

Entertainment Several movie theaters in Sofia show American and European films. American films are usually shown in English with Bulgarian subtitles. The English titles are published weekly in the private newspaper, The Sophia Echo. There are many theaters in Sofia offering a rich variety of performances from the classical to avant garde, with performances in Bulgarian. In the last couple of years there has been an English play performed by volunteers from the Englishspeaking community. Children's puppet theaters occasionally have pantomime shows, and there is a musical theater, which frequently performs musicals such as “Hello, Dolly.”

Bulgaria

Cities of the World The Sofia Philharmonic runs several cycles of performances at reasonable prices. Sofia also boasts a young private orchestra, the New Symphony Orchestra, whose director is Rossen Milanov, also the director of the Chicago Youth Orchestra. Numerous other musical events take place in the National Palace of Culture, a monstrosity of a building left from the days of communism. Pop, rock, jazz, and classical groups perform there. T h e m a n y a n d e v e r- c h a n g i n g assortment of restaurants, cafes, and pubs offer varied opportunities for exploration. Most restaurants are fairly inexpensive by American standards but have improved considerably in the last few years. Food and service are greatly improved, and excellent Bulgarian wines with dinner are well within an FS officer's budget. Besides a variety of international restaurants -Korean, Chinese, Indonesian, French, Spanish, Indian, and Italian - there are folkloric restaurants with floorshows, a restaurant that sells the antiques surrounding your table, restaurants with a view, and the usual assortment of American fast food restaurants.

Plovdiv Plovdiv, rich in both ancient and modern history, is Bulgaria’s second largest city, with a population of about 375,000. Situated on the cliffs overlooking the Maritsa River, it is about 100 miles east of Sofia, on the international highway to Istanbul. For more than 2,000 years, it has been a crossroads for east-west trade, and today is the site of the Plovdiv International Sample Fair, where tradespeople from both capitalist and communist countries gather each September to show their wares. The ancient city was known as Philippolis, for Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great, who made it a military post in 341 B.C. Under the Romans, who took the

city in 46 B.C., it was the capital of Thrace (or Thracia), and known as Trimontium. It was razed by the Goths, but recovered after Constantine V of Byzantine settled the Armenian Paulicians here. Again destroyed in the 13th century by Bulgarian raids, it revived as a center of the Bogomils, who were part of a religious movement of the Middle Ages. The Greeks retook the city in 1262, then lost it to the Turks in 1364. It became the capital of Eastern Rumelia when it passed to Russia in 1877. It was not until 1885 that it became part of Bulgaria. The Plovdiv of today retains the color of its history in the town walls and gate, the old quarter, the Eastern Orthodox churches, and the Roman architecture. Many places of historical interest are a short drive from Plovdiv, most notably the Bachkovo monastery, second only to Rila in interest and beauty. Plovdiv has a 4,000-student university and several other institutions of higher learning, as well as a number of notable museums.

Varna Varna is Bulgaria’s principal seaport, and is also a beautiful resort with fine beaches on the western shores of the Black Sea. It has a thriving tourist industry, and its museums, galleries, and good theaters contribute to the economic health of the city. Varna supports its own symphony orchestra and also an opera house. During the resort season, its hotels are both busy and expensive. One of the major attractions of this city of more than 311,000 residents is its international music festival. Every three years, a ballet competition is also held here. From Varna, throngs of visitors take excursion boats up and down the coast. Varna was founded in 580 B.C. as Odessus, a Greek colony. It passed to the Roman Empire in the first century A.D., and remained part of the Byzantine Empire until the Bulgarians defeated Constantine IV here in the year 679. Captured by the Turks in 1391, it became an

important seaport and, in the 19th century, a crucial railroad terminus. The Turks used Varna for almost five centuries as an outpost against the Christian Crusaders. In a turnabout, the British and the French made it their naval base in the Crimean War. The city was ceded to Bulgaria in 1878 by the Treaty of Berlin. For eight years after World War II (1949–1957), Varna was known as Stalin.

OTHER CITIES BURGAS, situated on the Gulf of Burgas, an inlet of the Black Sea, is one of the country’s major ports. A city of about 200,000 people, it has several industries, including fish canneries, an oil refinery, and engineering plants. It also is the site of an institute of chemical technology. Burgas (also spelled Bourgas) was founded in the 18th century on the site of a fortified town which had existed four centuries earlier. PLEVEN, with a population of about 140,400, is located 80 miles northeast of Sofia in north-central Bulgaria. The city lies near the Vit River in a small agricultural region surrounded by limestone hills. Pleven is a trading hub for the nearby farm districts and vineyards. Industries include those prod u c i n g r u b b e r g o o d s, c e r a m i c articles, tobacco, and cloth. A historical city since pre-Roman times, there are a number of museums and a school of viticulture here. A major battle of the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-78 was fought in Pleven, and a mausoleum commemorating the Turkish surrender in December 1877 is in the center of the city. RUSE (sometimes spelled Roussé), a city of close to 185,500, lies in northeast Bulgaria on the Danube, across from the Romanian city of Giurgiu (Giurgevo). It is Bulgaria’s chief river port and an industrial and communications center which developed after 1878. Founded in the second century B.C. as Prista, it 67

Bulgaria later became a Roman naval base. The Turks ruled the city from the 15th to the 19th centuries, called it Ruschuk, and made it a military base. Ruse, noted for its old churches and mosques, houses a large technical university, Angel Kancev. Fo u n d e d i n 9 2 7 , S H U M E N i s located in northeastern Bulgaria, about 500 miles west of Varna. Under Turkish rule during the 15th through 19th centuries, the city was strategically an important stronghold during the Turkish wars in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, Shumen is a manufacturing city whose chief industries include flour milling, brewing, canning, and motor vehicle assembling. It is also a railway junction and a market for grains and other agricultural products. The city was originally called Shumen or Shumla, but was renamed Kolarovgrad in 1950 in honor of the communist leader Kolarov, who was born here. It reverted to Shumen in 1965. The current population is about 104,000. SLIVEN (also called Slivno) is situated 155 miles east of Sofia at the foot of the Balkan Mountains in east-central Bulgaria. The city has long been considered strategically important due to its location at the entrance to the Balkan passes and has, consequently, been the center of conflict—in medieval times between Bulgaria and the Byzantine Empire, and between the Russians and the Turks in the 19th century. Today, Sliven is a textile center that also produces foodstuffs, wine, machinery, glass, and electrical goods. Coal is mined in the nearby region. Several churches and mosques, and the ruins of a medieval fortress may be found in Sliven. The capital of Sliven Province, the city has a population of 102,000. STARA ZAGORA is the capital of the district with the same name; it is approximately 110 miles southeast of Sofia and 50 miles northeast of Plovdiv. The city, with a population of about 145,000, is near the famous Shipka Pass in the Balkan Mountains. Stara Zagora produces 68

Cities of the World furniture, chemicals, textiles, and tobacco, and is known particularly for its vast fields of roses which provide oils for the perfume industry. It had to be rebuilt after the RussoTurkish War and, as a result, several Roman and Turkish antiquities were found. A spa called Stara Zagora is located near the city. TOLBUKHIN is a cultural and commercial center located 25 miles north of Varna in northeastern Bulgaria. The capital of the province of the same name, Tolbukhin produces cotton textiles, farm machinery, metal goods, and foodstuffs. Tolbukhin was formally called Dobrich; when it was occupied by Romania, from 1913-40, it was called Bazargic. It was officially renamed Tolbukhin in 1949 to honor the Soviet marshal who had liberated the city in 1944. Tolbhukin’s population is about 102,300.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Bulgaria is a country of mountains, plains, and seacoast, occupying 110,000 square kilometers (43,000 square miles) of the Balkan Peninsula. It measures roughly 260 miles from east to west and about 150 miles from north to south. Much of the country is rugged and mountainous, and only about 40 percent is cultivated. The Danube River, Black Sea, and Pirin-Rhodope Mountains provide natural borders on the north, east, and south. Flowing south into Greece are the nonnavigable Struma, Maritsa, Mesta, and Arda Rivers, important sources of water for irrigation. The Balkan range extends across the north-central part of the country, separating the wheat-growing Dobrudzha region from the Thracian plain, where vegetables, fruits, grapes, and tobacco are cultivated. The climate is usually designated as “continental, with many microcli-

mates.” From May to November, the climate is pleasantly warm and sunny. Sofia, though approximately on the same latitude as Rome, is about 1,500 feet up; it therefore, has a climate similar to, for example, Frankfurt. All plants, flowers, and fruits common in Britain and France grow well here, and the climate is too cold for citruses. November through April are cold, with snow and temperatures hovering near 32°F (0°C) but often falling lower, sometimes to 5°F (-15°C) in Sofia. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 90°F, and humidity is moderate. During July, the mean temperature is 68.7°F (20.4°C); during January, 30.6°F (-8°C). Mildew and insects are not significant factors. Sofia’s main climatic problem is winter smog, which is caused by industrial air pollution, soft-coal smoke, vehicle exhaust emissions, fog, and surrounding mountains that keep winds from blowing the smog away. Gray-brown dirt or coaldust, as well as sand, is scattered on Sofia’s snow-covered streets in winter. In Sofia, winters may often be gray, but they are quite beautiful in the nearby mountains. Mount Vitosha (altitude 2,290 m.), with its ski resorts and runs and walking paths, overlooks the city. Abundant trees and flowers make Sofia a more colorful city the rest of the year. Rainfall is moderate, averaging 25 inches a year.

Population Bulgaria's National Statistics Institute reported the 1996 population at just over 8 million. Roughly 1.2 million, or 13%, live in and around Sofia, the nation's capital. Plovdiv, the second largest city and cultural center, has a population of about 350,000, while the Black Sea coast town of Varna, the third largest, has just over 300,000. Few of the other cities have populations greater than 100,000. Recent years have seen a negative growth in the population, a condition also present in the early 1980s. The number of abortions exceeds live births, and in 1996 the country

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Alexander Nevski Square in Sofia, Bulgaria

had an infant mortality rate of 15.6 deaths per 1,000 live births. Death and illness rates have increased since the early 1980s. The “squared” population profile is projected to lead to a population of 6 million by the year 2030. The population is aging, with nearly 30% of the people over the retirement age of 55; 48% representing those of working age (20-54 years); and a relative few remaining to address the needs of a hoped for economic expansion. A doubling of the percentage of severely handicapped further complicates this condition. About 85% of the population is Bulgarian-a designation that includes people with numerous regional folklore traditions-and 9% is of ethnic Turkish origin. About 6% of the population is Roma, some of whom claim to be of Turkish descent. The country also has small numbers of Armenian, Jewish, Greek, and other minorities. The Bulgarian Orthodox Church, which belongs to the family of Eastern Churches that also

includes Greek, Serbian, Romanian, and Russian Orthodoxy, is the principal religious denomination. Today, Bulgaria has one of the highest levels of true literacy in the world. The Bulgarian language, like Russian and Serbian, is based on the Cyrillic alphabet, the founders of which were two Greek brothers, Cyril and Methodius, who worked among the Slavs, and is a source of great pride for Bulgarians. The Cyrillic alphabet spread from Bulgaria to Russia. Knowledge of other Slavic languages (particularly Russian) is helpful in learning Bulgarian, in spite of significant differences in vocabulary, grammar, and pronunciation. Learning foreign languages has always been stressed in Bulgaria, and the systems developed for learning language are quite effective. The levels of fluency in languages such as English, French, and German, often without the benefit of travel, is noteworthy.

Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

Public Institutions The 1991 constitution includes the following provisions: that there be separation of powers, political pluralism, free economic enterprise, inviolability of private property, and protection of the investments and businesses of Bulgarians and of foreigners. Human rights are generally well protected, and Bulgarian domestic laws are being brought into conformity with international agreements. The President is commander-inchief of the army and appoints and dismisses ambassadors. He has a staff of advisers. When in office, he officially relinquishes partisan allegiances and is the leader of all the Bulgarian people. He cannot initiate legislation, but has a qualified veto. Elected by direct popular election for five-year term, he can be reelected once. The Narodno Sobranie, or National Assembly, consists of 240 members, 69

Bulgaria each elected for a 4-year term with no term limit. They have public sittings that are extensively broadcast and televised. Both the Assembly and the Council of Ministers initiate legislation. The executive function rests with the Prime Minister and the Council of Ministers, including chairmen of functional committees. They are responsible for internal and foreign affairs. The judiciary does not check the actions of the executive or legislative sections; however, the new constitution provides for an independent judiciary. A two-tier local government system is specified: regions and municipalities. Regional governors are appointed by the council of ministers, and the municipalities elect councils and mayors. Bulgaria became a member of the UN in 1955 and belongs to most UN-related agencies. It is a member of the World Bank, the IMF, and is a candidate for membership of the European Community and NATO.

Arts, Science, and Education Full state support for the arts ended with the fall of the communist regime; however, the art scene remains vibrant, and one can pick from a rich variety of offerings: art and craft galleries; museums; theater (for those whose Bulgarian is good enough); opera; and classical, jazz, rock, and folk concerts. Sofia has six full-time theaters whose offerings range from Bulgarian and European classics to modern works of world drama.The Sofia Opera features standards of classic grand opera as well as ballet, while operettas and musicals can be seen at the Musical Theater. There are three full symphonic orchestras, the Sofia Philharmonic, the National Radio Orchestra, and the New Symphony Orchestra, which exists and performs completely without subsidy from the state. Fans of popular music can enjoy live bands at many of the clubs around town and at the several commercial concerts throughout the year. Bulgaria also has international festivals of dance, classical music, folk, jazz, and rock during the spring, summer, and fall. 70

Cities of the World By U.S. standards, tickets to all cultural events are inexpensive and are readily available. There are excellent state museums of Bulgarian and foreign art, an historical museum, an ethnographic museum, and a natural history museum, all with interesting exhibits. In addition, private art galleries have proliferated in recent years, and one can see (and purchase) works ranging from icons through modern abstract work. For those interested in folk culture, Bulgaria offers a wealth of possibilities. Throughout the year one can see festivals of dance and folk music, and there are opportunities to attend traditional events such as the parades of mummers (kukeri). Several world-renowned troupes perform on occasion (when not traveling abroad), and the chance to hear troupes such as the Pirin Ensemble, the Filip Koutev Ensemble, and the famous part-singing women's choir, “Les Mysteres des Vo i x B u l g a r e s,” sh ou l d n o t b e passed up. Bulgaria has had an excellent reputation in the world of science and education for years, and the recent economic troubles notwithstanding, it continues to educate students, particularly in math and science, whose test scores rank among the best in the world. Compulsory schooling ends at age 15, but more than 80% of students go farther. Bulgaria's literacy rate is greater than 98%, considerably higher than that in the U.S. With the political reforms of the last several years has come educational reform as well, and the entire educational system from primary school through graduate school is being reconstituted along Western lines. The Ministry of Education has overall responsibility for maintaining standards and prescribing curricula for all public schools and any private educational institutions qualified to offer recognized diplomas. Secondary education in Bulgaria, despite serious economic problems, continues to offer a large variety of

educational choices ranging from vocational programs (often closely associated with factories) to special science and math high schools. Very popular also are the foreign-language high schools, which like the math and science schools, are “entrance by examination” institutions. Bulgaria has 43 universities and other institutes of higher education an d 4 5 c o l le g e s a n d t e ch n i c a l schools. (“College” refers to semihigher learning institutions for nursing, paramedical training, teaching, and technical education.) A new feature on the Bulgarian educational scene are the recently (re)established private schools. While these are governed by the various laws on education and are subject to a greater or lesser amount of oversight by the Ministry of Education, they receive no financial support from the state budget. Most notable among these private institutions are the American University of Bulgaria in Blagoevgrad, an American liberal arts college with a strong business school; the New Bulgarian University in Sofia; and the American College of Sofia, an English-language high school that was founded in the middle of the last century and reopened in 1992 after being closed for nearly 50 ye ar s. T h e r e is a ls o a p r iv a te English-language primary through middle school with American accreditation, the Anglo-American School of Sofia. Unlike the situation in America, most basic research is not carried out in universities but rather in one of the more than 160 institutes and laboratories of the Bulgarian Academies of Science, Medicine and Agriculture. The Academies, which are not teaching institutions, have suffered even more than the school system from the economic hardships of the last years, and this has inhibited the exploitation of Bulgaria's scientific talent. Al l ed uca t io nal a n d s c ient i f i c institutions are eagerly seeking partnerships with Western institutions, and American programs spon-

Bulgaria

Cities of the World sored by the Fulbright Commission and IREX have contributed significantly to linking Bulgarian scholars and scientists with their counterparts in the U.S.

Commerce and Industry Following a severe economic crisis, the newly elected Union of Democratic Forces (UDF) Government adopted a currency board arrangement (CBA) in 1997. The CBA and its associated IMF program have provided the framework for cutting inflation from nearly 600% in 1997 to 6.2% in 1999. Fiscal discipline has kept budget deficits small and led to successive increases in Bulgaria's credit ratings. Despite the conflict in Kosovo, GDP grew by 2.4% in 1999 and is projected to grow by 4% in 2000. However, in the wake of large-scale restructuring of state-owned enterprises (SOEs), unemployment increased to 19% of the labor force in April 2000. The UDF Government made considerable progress in privatizing SOEs last year. As of the end of 1999, about 71% of state-owned assets destined for privatization had actually been sold. The privatization process was to have been substantially completed in 2000, but difficulties in some sales make it increasingly likely that several large state-owned companies will not be sold until 2001. Bulgaria joined the World Trade Organization (WTO) in December 1996 and became a full member of the Central European Free Trade Agreement (CEFTA) in July 1998. Bulgaria trades with European countries under preferential terms according to the European Union Association Agreement, effective February 1, 1995, and an agreement with the European Free Trade Association (EFTA), effective 1993. Bulgaria signed free-trade agreements with Turkey (effective January 1, 1999) and Macedonia (effective January 1, 2000).

In 1999, according to preliminary e s ti m at e s, B u l g ar i a a t t r a c te d $755.3 million in foreign direct investment; during the period 19921999; foreign direct investment totaled $2.8 billion. The U.S. is the fourth largest source of foreign direct investment ($198.4 million, or 7% of the total). Among the largest foreign investors are the following U.S. compan ies: American Standard, AIG/ALICO, McDonald's, Entergy Power Group, Hilton International, Seaboard Overseas, World Trade Company, Kraft Foods International, Bulgarian-American Enterprise Fund (BASF), Caresbac, DTS, Investments Corporation, Eurotech, Kontrako, and Eagle. Germany is the top foreign investor, with $425.9 million, or 15% of total foreign investment, followed by Belgium, with $373 million, or 13% of total foreign investment, and Cyprus, with $249 million, or 9% of total foreign investment. The government seeks to improve the country's infrastructure. Many roads and railways have been reconstructed by the Phare Cross Border Program, but much remains to be done. Despite the ongoing modernization of the telephone system, the quality is below international stand a r d s. T h e r e a r e t w o c e l l u l a r radiotelephone networks-one analogue and one digital. A second GSM (the Global System for Mobile communications) license will be issued later this year; the Bulgarian Te l e c o m m u n i c a t i o n C o m p a n y (BTC) is also to be privatized in the near future.

In Sofia and along the main highways, super (96 octane), and regular (91 octane) and unleaded (95H) gasoline is available. Diesel fuel is available at major gas stations only. An International Driver's License is recommended, but not required, and can be obtained through AAA or an equivalent organization. Traffic moves on the right as in the U.S. The following rules may be unfamiliar to people new to Europe: You must stop 3 meters behind and to the right of a tramway car stopping to discharge or pick up passengers. Speed limits are 120 kph on divided highways; 90 kph on regular main roads; and 50 kph in populated areas, unless there are signs to the contrary. Priority is given to the driver entering from the right on any equal junction. You should strictly observe the prio r i t y o f a p ed e s t r i a n w h o h a s stepped onto a painted pedestrian crossing. It is illegal to drive with more than 0.05 parts per thousand of alcohol in the blood or when alcohol in any quantity has been consumed immediately before taking the wheel. If you have an accident, you must call the police, and both drivers should wait at the scene, even if there has been no personal injury. The police will issue a protokol za proizshestivie (police protocol). Without this piece of paper, you cannot make a claim on your insurance.

Automobiles

“Green Card” short-term, the overseas third-party liability, is mandatory for auto travel in Europe. When you arrive in Bulgaria, take out this policy for Bulgaria and for all of Europe through the local Insurance Corporation. It has also recently become possible to obtain this policy from Clements & Co. and other American firms.

Road conditions in Bulgaria can be poor, especially in winter, as only the major roads are cleared of ice and snow. Four-wheel or all-wheeldrive vehicles are recommended. Shell gas stations can be found in larger cities and along most major highways.

Sofia is served by a network of tram, trolley bus, and auto lines. A onemonth pass cost $14 (August 2000). Vehicles are often crowded but are handy, frequent, and very cheap-an important point now that parking is

Transportation

Local

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very tight around the center of town. Taxis are legion. There are many taxi stands; taxis cruise, and you can also get taxi service by telephone. Frequent air and railway service li nk S o fi a wit h the B lack S ea resorts of Varna and Burgas, as well as with other major Bulgarian cities.

Regional No American air carrier serves Sofia. The Western European cities with frequent service by American carriers are Frankfurt, Paris, London, Zurich, Munich, and Vienna, but connections to and from Sofia vary in convenience according to the day of the week. The Bulgarian airline, Balkan, and other foreign carriers provide regular service between Sofia and Western European cities. In late fall and winter, fog or heavy snow may occasionally close Sofia Airport for several days at a time. There are many rail and bus lines to/from major European cities, and to resort areas in Greece and Turkey. Travelers should be cautious about theft, especially when crossing borders on land transportation. The preferred route for coming to Sofia from Europe by car is via Vidin/Kalafat.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Direct dialing is available from the U.S. to Bulgaria. International connections with the U.S. vary from quick and clear to slow and unsatisfactory. The cost of calling the U.S. in early 1999 was about $1.50 per minute when using the Bulgarian Telecommunications Company and dialing direct. Telephone charges begin when the connection is made with the U.S. operator, not with your party. From your home, you may dial direct to most Eastern and Western countries. Some people have had success with Internet telephony. 72

Several service providers offer connection to the Internet and also permit the use of American-based services. Prices are relatively reasonable in comparison to telephone costs and assist in maintaining contact with other Internet users on a considerably faster basis than “snail mail.”

Radio and TV Bulgarian TV broadcasts nationwide on two channels, Channel 1, which is broadcast in SECAM, and Channel 2, which broadcasts in PAL. Local broadcast stations exist in many cities. In Sofia the two local (and private) stations are New TV ( PA L ) a n d S e v e n D a y s T V (SECAM). Currently, there are two stations that have broadcast capability nationwide, one public-Channel 1, and the other private-BTV (Bulgarian TV). In addition to broadcast TV, satellite reception is possible for those having a dish, and there are a number of cable operations as well. Satellite and cable offerings make available CNN, CNBC, BBC, SKY NEWS, MTV, and SKY SPORTS, and a large variety of other European channels. European-system and Mufti-system television receivers are widely available for sale. Programming runs the gamut of news, entertainment, business news, film, and the like. Broadcast TV is almost exclusively in Bulgarian, while cable and satellite offerings feature programming in English, Spanish, French, German, Portuguese, Greek, and Arabic. Radio has both private and public (state) stations, with the latter having the only truly nationwide coverage. Deutsche Welle, BBC Radio, Radio France International, and Radio Free Europe have local FM broadcasting arrangements and are easily and clearly received. All but RFE do programs in both Bulgarian and their respective national languages (RFE does Bulgarian language news only). Bulgarian radio of both the private and state varieties offer some very good news, talk show, and music programming; however, a good grasp of Bulgarian

is required for all but the music programs.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Many general-interest publications, including English-, French-, and German-language newspapers and magazines are widely available in Sofia, though they tend to arrive a day late and are quite expensive. These, as well as a large variety of Bulgarian periodicals, are available in hotels and at street ki osks throughout the downtown area in Sofia.

Community Health Apart from smog, coal dust, and pollen, which particularly affect people with sinus and respiratory problems (asthma sufferers in particular), Sofia has no special health hazards. Water, although deemed generally safe, should be distilled to remove heavy metals, mineral deposits, unusual taste, and color. Fluoride supplements are recommended for children up to age 16. Milk and butter are of uneven quality. Vegetables, fruits, and eggs should be thoroughly washed, but no other special treatment is necessary. Local pottery should not be used for cooking, storing, or serving food, as it may leach lead from local paints and glazes. Municipal services generally collect garbage and trash regularly, and there is a regimen of sweeping the city streets.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties Flights on American carriers from the U.S. fly to Frankfurt, Paris, London, Vienna, Zurich, and Munich. From these cities, foreign airlines provide reasonably good connections to Sofia. To avoid possible conflict with the Fly America Act, consider Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, or Vienna as the nearest points to Sofia served by an American carrier. Note that Sofia time is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)/Coordinated

Bulgaria

Cities of the World Universal Time (UTC) + 2, whereas Yugoslavia and the countries of central and Western Europe are on GMT/UTC + 1. A passport is required. A visa is not required for U.S. citizen visitors using regular passports for stays up to 30 days. Travelers who intend to stay more than 30 days, or travelers using official or diplomatic passports, must obtain a special 30 day visa from a Bulgarian embassy or consulate. Once in Bulgaria, this visa gives them grounds to apply for a residence permit. Travelers who have a 1-year multiple-entry visa for Bulgaria may stay up to 90 days altogether within six months. If a traveler comes to Bulgaria, stays in the country 90 days and then goes out, he or she will not be able to enter the country within the next 90 days. All travelers are required to register with the regional passport office for foreigners or the police within 48 hours after their arrival in the country and to inform the office about any change in their address. For those staying at a hotel, a private boarding house or an apartment rented through an accommodation company, registration is taken care of by the proprietor. Visitors should carry their passport with them at all times. The Bulgarian authorities do not consider presentation of a copy of one's passport to be sufficient. For further information concerning entry requirements, travelers should contact the Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria at 1621 22nd St. N.W., Washington, D. C. 2 0 0 0 8 ; I n t e r n e t h t t p : / / www.bulgaria-embassy.org, tel. (202) 483-5885 (main switchboard (202) 387-7969) or the Bulgarian Consulate in New York City. Travelers carrying cash equivalent to 5,000 Bulgarian leva (about $2,200) or more must declare the amount they are carrying on a customs declaration upon arrival or departure. Failure to declare currency and jewelry or improper exit from the customs area through the “green” (nothing to declare) line have resulted in confiscation of the

currency or the jewelry and, in some cases, arrest. Travelers who have with them the equivalent of 20,000 Bulgarian leva or more upon departure must have a permit to export the money issued by the Bulgarian National Bank's Headquarters, if they had less than the equivalent of 20,000 Bulgarian leva upon entry in the country. Travelers should also declare jewelry, cameras, computers, and other valuables to avoid diffi cult ies on dep arture. P leas e contact the Embassy of Bulgaria in Washington, D.C. or one of Bulgaria's consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs regulations. Americans living in or visiting Bulgaria are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Bulgaria and obtain updated information on travel and security within Bulgaria. The U.S. Embassy is located in Sofia at 1 S u b o r n a ( f o r me r ly 1 A . S t a mboliyski Boulevard); tel. (359) (2) 937-5100; fax (359) (2) 981-8977. The Consular Section of the Embassy is located at 1 Kapitan Andreev Street in Sofia; tel. (359) (2) 963-2022; fax (359) (2) 963-2859. The Embassy's web site address is h t t p : / / w w w. u s i s. b g. Q u e s t i o n s regarding consular services may be directed via e-mail to: [email protected], [email protected] and [email protected].

The lev is pegged to the euro at 1.956 leva per euro. Bulgaria is still a largely cash economy. Visitors should exchange cash at banks or Change Bureaus. Some Change Bureaus charge commissions on both cash and travelers' check transactions that are not clearly posted. People on the street who offer high rates of exchange are usually con artists intent on swindling the unwary traveler. Damaged or very worn U.S dollar bank notes are often not accepted at banks or Change Bureaus. Major branches of the following Bulgarian banks will cash travelers' checks on the spot for leva, the Bulgarian currency, or other desired currency: Bulbank, Bulgarian Postbank, Biochim, First Investment Bank and United Bulgarian Bank (UBB). UBB also serves as a Western Union agent and provides direct transfer of money to travelers in need. ATM cash machines are increasing in numbers in Sofia and other major cities. Major credit cards (MC, VISA, AMEX, etc.) can be used at a few establishments in and around Bulgaria (hotels, restaurants, and other tourist establishments), but usage is very low and is not recommended due to the risk of credit card fraud. Credit cards are useful when ordering goods from mail order houses in the States and from overseas duty-free supply companies like Peter Justesen.

Pets Dogs and cats are admitted to Bulgaria with proof of current rabies shot and health certificate that should be obtained before arrival. Examination by a Bulgarian veterinarian is required upon arrival. Dogs should be licensed. Satisfactory veterinary care is available in Sofia, as well as most vaccines and medications.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Orthodox Easter Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Orthodox Easter Monday May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

May 24 . . . . . . . . . .Sts. Cyril and Methodius Day

The unit of currency is the lev (plural: leva). Currency notes are available in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 leva. Coinage includes 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 stotinki (100 stotinki = 1 lev).

Sep. 6 . . . . . . . . . . .Unification Day Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec 26. . . . . . . . . . .Day After Christmas 73

Bulgaria

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published in English about Bulgaria. American Automobile Association Travel Guides. Tourbook for Eastern Europe. Ash, David. Essential Bulgaria. 1997. Arie, Gabriel. A Sephardi Life in Southeastern Europe: The Autobiography and Journal of Gabriel Arie, 1863-1939. 1998. Bar-Zohar, Michael. Beyond Hitter’s Grasp, The Heroic Rescue of Bulgaria's Jews. 1998. Bousfield, Jonathan and Richardson, Dan. The Rough Guide: Bulgaria. Fourth ed. 1999.

74

Cities of the World Carney, Peter and Anastassova, Mary, Bulgaria: The Black Sea Coast. 1997. Carney, Peter and Anastassova, Mary. Bulgaria: The Mountain Resorts 1999. Sold in the U.S. by Book Clearing House, tel: 800431-1579, BOOKCHnaol.com, www.bookclearing-house.com, www.dir.bg, www.gyuvech.bg, www.onlinLbr Carney, Peter and Anastassova, Mary. Bulgaria: Sofia and Plovdiv. 1998. Chary, Frederick B. The Bulgarian Jews and the Final Solution, 1940-44. University of Pittsburgh Press: Pittsburgh, 1972. Constant, Stephen. Foxy Ferdinand, Tsar of Bulgaria. Sidgwick & Jackson, Ltd.: London, 1979. Crampton, R.J. A Concise History of Bulgaria. Cambridge, 1997.

Danforth, Loring M. The Macedonian Conflict: Ethnic Nationalism in a Transnational World. Princeton, 1995. Groueff Stephane. Crown of Thorns. Madison Books: Maryland, 1987. Marazov, Ivan, ed. Ancient Gold: The Wealth of the Thracians: Treasures from the Republic of Bulgaria. 1998. Markov, Georgi. The Truth that Killed. Ticknor & Fields: New York, 1984. Norwich, John Julius. Byzantium: The Apogee. New York, 1997. Thompson, E.P. Beyond the Frontier: The Politics of a Failed Mission; Bulgaria 1944. 1997. Vazov Ivan. Under the Yoke. Twayne Publishers, Inc.: New York, 1971. Wa r e, T i m o t h y. Th e O r t h o d o x Church. 1993.

CROATIA

Major City: Zagreb Other Cities: Dubrovnik, Karlovac, Osijek, Pula, Rijeka, Split, Zadar

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Croatia. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Croatia, located in the middle of Europe, declared independence from Communist Yugoslavia in 1991, making it one of Europe's youngest nations. The capital, Zagreb, has all the characteristics of a historic and modern central European city.

MAJOR CITY Zagreb Zagreb, a city of some 1 million people, is the political, cultural, scientific, industrial, and commercial center of Croatia. The city is located

between the green hillsides of Medvednica in the north and the Sava River in the south. Sljeme (3,354 feet) is a mountain park on the north part of town. It is easily accessible from the city by public transportation. It has many hiking trails and during the winter some skiing is possible if there is enough snow. Zagreb is an ancient trading center with an old European look to it. Narrow streets slip between the walls of former houses of 18th-century nobility, and gardens bloom in the center. In the spring and summer the streets are lined with outside cafes that are always full of people enjoying coffee or a beer. In the winter, poorly maintained houses and buildings combine with gray skies and fog to give it a drab and gloomy look. Medieval Zagreb developed from the 11th-13th centuries in the twin towns of “Kaptol” and “Gradec.” In “Kaptol” the oldest part of town, is found the cathedral Sveti Stjepan, the Bishop's Palace, and remains of the towers from an 11th century fortress. On an adjoining hill of the upper city called “Gradec,” there are the ancient city gates, St. Mark's Church (which sports a distinctive multicolored tiled roof), several museums, the Parliament building, and other government offices. Kaptol was the seat of the diocese, but Gradec was the free royal city. They

often fought one another, particularly during the 15th and 16th centuries. In the late 19th century, the city spread out onto the flat area between the hills and river. Since WWII extensive high-rise construction has occurred in “New Zagreb” across the Sava to the south. Fortunately, the city weathered the chaotic period that followed Yugoslavia's breakup without sustaining much damage.

Utilities All quarters have central heating and hot water. Window-unit air-conditioners are installed in some properties' bedrooms. Most cooking is by electric range oven, but a few units have gas ranges. Standard electric power is 220v, 50 cycles. Receptacles are standard mainland Europeantype with 2 round prongs. Transformers are not readily available in Croatia, but Aviano AFB, Italy, sometimes has them in stock. Adapter plugs can be found at most U.S. military bases and travel stores in the U.S. Bring transformers, or dual-voltage, or 220v appliances, since transformers are limited in quantity. (Note that 110v/60Hz appliances such as record players, clocks, etc., often will not operate correctly even when used with a transformer unless other adjust75

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Courtesy of the Croatian Embassy

Neo-gothic cathedral in Zagreb

ments are made. These adjustments usually must be performed by a trained technician and can be expensive.) A power surge regulator is recommended for personal computers.

Food Zagreb's food supply has improved in the last couple of years in terms 76

of quality and variety. Many fruit and vegetable markets in town sell varied and fresh selections. Several new large supermarkets with parking areas have opened recently. It is becoming possible to find fruits and vegetables that are not in season, but prices are high. Generally, fruits and vegetables do not require extra

sanitation procedures, such as soaking them in iodine. Around or near the market there are places in which to buy meat. Pork and chicken are particularly good, and cold cuts with prices comparable to those in the U.S. are sold. There is a variety of dairy products. Cheese and yogurt are good and

Croatia

Cities of the World inexpensive. Fresh and long-life milk is available. Local bread is delicious and inexpensive, but no preservatives are used, so you must buy it daily. Some supermarkets offer what you would normally find in a small supermarket in the U.S., but with a much smaller selection of brands. Some imported products from Germany and Italy are available regul a r l y. Numerous small neighborhood stores sell mainstaysmilk, eggs, flour, juice, etc. The s e l e c t i o n i s a l way s s u b j e c t t o change, and the assortment can be bewildering at times! You'll probably find one within walking distance of your home. Zagreb has one very complete spice shop in town. Anyone fond of a particular cuisine should bring spices and be ready to substitute. For the most part, everything is av a i l a b l e. N o n e t h e l e s s, m a n y Croatians shop in Austria, Italy, and Hungary because they believe products are cheaper and of a better quality than in Croatia. Local specialties will please your palate. Croatia's Dalmatian coast excels in seafood, including scampi and shellfish. A Zagreb specialty that sticks to your ribs is “strukli,” a type of cheese strudel. Homemade Slavonian “kulen,” a paprika-flavored salami, is widely available. Croatia is also famous for its plum brandies (“sljivovica”), herbal brandies (“travarica”), cognacs (“vinjak”), and liqueurs such as maraschino, a cherry liqueur made in Zadar. Italian-style espresso coffee is popular, as are Ozujsko and Karlovacko beers (“pivos”). Several good ice cream parlors in Zagreb make their own gelato-style flavors.

Clothing Although some good-quality clothing is available, prices are generally much higher than those in the U.S, and fabrics generally don't hold up too well.

Men: Most entertaining is informal (coat and tie). Seasonal clothing needs are similar to those of New York or Washington, D.C. Zagreb has several very nice, but expensive, tie shops with designs which incorporate ancient Croatian motifs and symbols. Women: Professional dresses are the normal dress for women. Women's suits, dress pants, and knitwear are practical and often worn to lunches, receptions, and cocktail parties. Children: Bring a supply of children's clothes. Snowsuits, heavy jackets, coats, hats, mittens, ski pants, and warm boots are necessary for winter when temperatures dip below freezing and snow and ice can linger on the ground for weeks at a time. For summer, bring clothes for sports such as tennis and swimming. Temperatures reach the 90°F range in summer, so bring shorts and T-shirts. Bring special items like Halloween costumes, soccer cleats, ballet shoes, etc., with you.

Supplies & Services Local stores seldom stock U.S. products, but several Croatian brands of shampoo, laundry detergent, lip balm, creams, and cleaning supplies are satisfactory and reasonably priced. In general, although you can find most anything you need here, it will be more expensive, and the shopping is not efficient, as parking is always difficult downtown and shops often run out of products on a weekly basis. High-quality brandname cosmetics and toiletries locally will cost almost three times the U.S. price. An English-language bookstore sells some children's books and cassettes, but most parents subscribe to children's book clubs or order books from catalogs. Parents of children at the American School of Zagreb can order books from the Scholastic Book Club every 2 months or so. Tailors, dressmakers, and cobblers are available locally and offer excellent service at fair prices. Cloth is

available at bargain prices, and all you need is a picture from a catalog, and most clothing items can be duplicated. Local dry cleaners, beauty and barbershops, radio and small electronics repair shops, and other service facilities are adequate and reasonably priced. Such beauty treatments as facials, waxing, and pedicures are available by appointment. Photo developing is quite expensive here, so many people send film to the U.S. (Mystic Photo) for developing through the mail, but the drawback is that it takes weeks to get your pictures.

Domestic Help Domestic help is available. Many English-speaking young university students in Zagreb like to babysit. The average wage for childcare is $4-$5 a hour. If you plan to bring a domestic e m p l o y e e, t h e G o v e r n m e n t o f Croatia requires the individual to be declared through the local police (Department for Foreigners). If domestic help is employed full time (40 hours a week), your total gross monthly expenses would be about: Maid, from $800-$1,000; cook, $1,200-$1,400; driver, $1,000$1,200; gardener, $1,000-$1,200. The employee is responsible to report and to pay social security contributions and personal income tax. The employer is responsible for: Signing a written contract (to include effective date, brief job description, expiration date, probationary period, annual leave, notice period, salary and benefits, work schedule); Ensuring secure working conditions (the employer is responsible for work injuries and damages as a result of working conditions that are not in accordance with Croatian regulations); Providing at least 18 working days of annual leave each calendar year; Providing maternity leave from 6 months to 1 year (compensation during maternity leave is paid with Croatian Social Security Funds); Paying for sick leave for a period of up to 42 calendar days (an authorized physi77

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cian's approval is necessary); and Providing a separation notice in writing giving 2 weeks' notice if employed for less than 1 year, 1 month's notice if employed 1 year with the same employer, and 2 months' notice if employed 2 years with the same employer, etc. If employees are employed from time to time, or just a few hours/ w e e k , t h e r e i s n o e m p l o y e remployee relationship, and employees are paid hourly. Hourly rates vary.

Religious Activities Zagreb is predominantly Roman Catholic, but the Serbian-Orthodox, Lutheran, Baptist, Church of Christ, Seventh-day Adventist, Mormon, Moslem, and Jewish faiths are represented. Although there is no Rabbi, Jewish services are held in the Community Center on Friday evenings. A small English-speaking Catholic group says regular Sunday Mass and offers a First Communion and CCD program for children. A Baptist Church offers a service with translation into English.

Education The Department of State partially supports the American School of Zagreb (ASZ), founded in 1966, but most income is through tuition. It is a private, nonprofit school that provides complete coeducational and nonsectarian instruction (from kindergarten through grade 8) based on a U.S. curriculum, principles, and standards for children of Americans and foreigners temporarily living in Zagreb. ASZ is not legally recognized by the Croatian Government. Although not incorporated with any state in the U.S., it is fully accredited by the Middle States Association of Schools and is a member of the European Council of International Schools. ASZ is governed by a school board. The board has the authority to develop policy and to make regulations for the conduct of school business and to administer school affairs. The school occupies a pri78

Harbor with pier on the Adriatic Sea

vate home for the lower school (kindergarten through grade 4) and two apartments next door for the upper school (grades 5 to 8) in a nice neighborhood in the north hills of Zagreb. The school has nine classrooms, a library, a computer laborat o r y, a n a r t r o o m , a n d t h r e e workrooms. The school has no athletic facilities, so students go to a local gym twice a week for physical education. Enrollment during the 1997-98 school year was about 90 children. School usually opens the first week of September and dismisses the second week in June, with vacations comparable to those ordinarily observed in the U.S. (Christmas and spring break).

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Children who are 5 years old by October 31 of the year of entrance are eligible to enroll in kindergarten, which runs for the full school day (8:15 am to 2:30 pm). The school has witnessed incredible growth in the last few years, and a new facility is being sought in Zagreb. The curriculum is that of the U.S. general academic, public schools. Instruction is in English. Englishas-a-Second Language instruction is offered to students with limited English proficiency. Special education programs are not available. The foreign-language program includes

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Cities of the World German and French. Croatian is not taught at the school.

courts are available at certain clubs and can be rented by the hour.

The children take the ITBS (Iowa) test annually.

Basketball is popular in Zagreb, and from October to April games take place at the Cibona Centar. On Saturday afternoons soccer games are held at the Maksimir Stadium.

For preschoolers there are privately owned playschools for children ages 2-5 (potty-training is necessary). There are several English-speaking pres cho ols a s well a s a newl y opened French preschool and Montessori School. The preschools generally run from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., but for working parents, some have hours until 4 p.m. Costs range from $100-$250 a month, depending on the program.

Special Educational Opportunities Mirogoj, Zagreb's main cemetery, is a beautiful place to take a walk. Built in 1876 in the Renaissance style, the cemetery walls look almost like a fortress. Inside there are quiet wooded walking paths. It's interesting to see how burial places have been arranged according to religion. All Saint's Day is a fascinating time to visit the cemetery and see the thousands of burning candles and bunches of flowers placed on the graves of loved ones. Extracurricular activities for children include karate, Tae Kwon Do, ice skating, tennis, swimming, piano, guitar, ballet and modern dance, and soccer. Costs for children to participate with a private instructor, or in a club, are comparable to, or less than, U.S. prices. Private tutoring in various languages is also available.

Sports Zagreb has a variety of recreational facilities. The following sports are popular: skiing, ice hockey, hunting, water polo, handball, basketball, tennis, soccer, and sailing. For swimming, Zagreb has several indoor/ outdoor swimming pools with lap lanes, diving platforms, and baby pools. There are many private tennis clubs. The cost to play once a week is about $150 a year. Indoor courts are available in winter. At Maksimir Park, tennis courts can be rented for $4 an hour. Squash

Yoga and aerobics classes are available in Zagreb through health clubs and private lessons. Outdoor sports possibilities in Zagreb during winter are limited to skiing, horseback riding, skating, and sledding. Sledding is very popular in hilly Zagreb and its many parks. There are many natural hot springs (Toplice) with indoor/outdoor swimming facilities. Skiing in Sljeme is popular and easily accessible; however, most people drive to Slovenia, Italy, or Austria to ski. There are excellent downhill and cross-country trails for experts and beginners. Several ice-skating rinks offer skates to rent and children's lessons. Foreigners in Croatia can hunt deer, birds, etc., as guests of Croatians. Without such an invitation, you must belong to a hunting club. Fishing licenses cost 40 kuna a day. On Croatia's Dalmatian coast, sailing, wind surfing, and other water sports are very popular. Scuba diving certification is available in Zagreb. The rugged islands off Croatia's mountainous coast from Istria to Dubrovnik provide a yachting paradise. The channels are deep, and the winds are steady. Of the some 39 modern marinas dotting the coast, the Adriatic Croatia International Club (ACI) operates 19 of them. Yacht rentals can be arranged. You can hire a “bare boat” (no crew) for your party and set out on your own (you must prove your competence), or join a “flotilla” of yachts sailing along a fixed route. Crewed yacht charters are also available. All charters are for at least 1 week. Prices range from U S $1,3 50 t o U S $ 5, 37 5 a w e e k , depending on the type of yacht, plus US$100 a day for the skipper.

Sea kayaking is popular around the Kornati Islands. There are package tours available.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Pleasant excursions can be taken within the city of Zagreb and the surrounding areas. The hills and wooded areas around Zagreb are great for weekend walks and picnics. The Germans built and donated a particularly nice children's playground to Zagreb in Odranska, but otherwise children's playground equipment is substandard and does not conform to international safety standards. Good hiking trails go up to Medvedgrad, a medieval fortress on the southwestern part of Mount Medvednica, above western Zagreb. It was built in the mid-13th century to protect Zagreb from Tartar attacks. It has been partly restored. You can enjoy good hiking trails up and down Sljeme Mountain-and a cable car to ride-in case you get tired! There is also a paved road running to the top of Sljeme from Zagreb for those who want to drive. Maksimir is Zagreb's largest and most beautiful park. The park has a zoo, several artificial lakes, and nice areas for biking and walking. Jarun is a lake with water slides, bike riding areas, picnic barbecue areas, and swimming. The Botanical Gardens were planted over a century ago and boast a wide variety of alpine and Mediterranean plants. Though it may seem a strange destination, Mirogoj, Zagreb's main cemetery, is a beautiful place to take a walk. Built in 1876 in the neoRenaissance style, the cemetery walls look almost like a fortress. Inside there are quiet wooded walking paths. It's interesting to see how the burial places have been arranged according to religion. All Saints' Day is a fascinating time to visit the cemetery and see the thousands of burning candles and bunches of flowers placed on the graves of loved ones. There are nice “day trips” within a few hours' drive of Zagreb. Zagorje 79

Croatia is a region north of Zagreb known for its rolling hills, vineyards, orchards, small villages, streams, ancient castles, spas, and health resorts. Of Zagorje's castles, Trakoscan, Miljana, and Veliki Tabor are the most beautiful. The scenery is reminiscent of West Virginia's Appalachian region in the U.S. In Zagorje, Varazdin is a pleasant little town with a few Baroque churches and a medieval castle that now contains the municipal museum. Risnjak National Park at Crni Lug, between Zagreb and Rijeka, is a good hiking area in the summer. There's a small park-operated hotel at Crni Lug with rooms at US $20 per person. It's a 9-km, 2½-hourclimb from the park entrance at Bijela Vodica to Veliki Risnjak. Kurnrovec is the birthplace of Josip Tito. His house was built in 1860 in the center of town. Today, it is a memorial museum with furniture and household implements from the time of Tito's childhood. Around Tito's house about 30 village houses and farm buildings from the turnof-the-century have been preserved. They were restored and reconstructed to form the Staro Selo (Old Village). Samobor is a small town west of Zagreb with a tradition in crafts and inn keeping. It's a nice area for fishing, swimming, and Carnival festivities. Many people enjoy shopping in a crystal factory there. Krapina is a small town situated in Zagorje only 50 km from Zagreb. Krapina became famous in 1899, w h e n t h e r e m a i n s o f a n e ar l y human settlement 30,00040,000 years old were discovered at this site. Today, an archeological park features sculptures of early humans and animals. The Plitvice Lakes National Park occupies 195 km of forests, lakes, and meadows. There are hiking trails along the waterfalls and lakes. The color of the lakes depends on the plankton density-they range from a dark blue to a strikingly bright emerald color. The park, established in 1929, is on UNESCO's World Heritage List. It 80

Cities of the World is a nice day trip, or the hotel is reasonable if you wish to stay longer. The Adriatic coast is famous for its Mediterranean landscapes and climate. Istria, the peninsula just south of Trieste, Italy, offers many lovely weekend getaways (4-5 hourdrive from Zagreb). Porec, even after the fall of Rome, remained important as a center of early Christianity, with a bishop and a famous Basilica. There are many places to swim in the clear water by the old town. Rovinj is an active fishing port with a large Italian community. Its high peninsula is topped by the 57-meter high tower of St. Euphemia Cathedral. The 13 green offshore islands of the Rovinj Archipelago offer pleasant, varied views. The cobbled, inclined streets in the old town are where local artists sell their works. Each year in mid-August Rovinj's painters stage a big open-air art show. Pula is a large commercial harbor. The old town has many well-preserved Roman ruins such as the first-century AD Roman amphitheater overlooking the harbor. The rockywooded peninsulas overlooking the Adriatic waters are dotted with resort hotels and campgrounds. Brijuni is a fascinating group of islands. Each year from 1949 until his death in 1980, Marshal Tito spent 6 months at his summer residences on Brijuni. Brijuni is a national park with some 680 species of plants, including many exotic subtropical species planted at Tito's request. In Brijuni, visitors can see Tito's three palaces, the luxury hotels where his guests once stayed, St. German Churchnow a gallery of copies of medieval frescoes-and an exhibit of Tito photos. The Gulf of Kvarner is also a nice part of the coast for weekend getaways (a 3-4 hour-drive). South of Rijeka, between the Istrian Peninsula and the Croatian mainland, are many islands, including Krk, Cres, and Pag. Many people frequent Opatija, once a fashionable bathing resort of the Hapsburg elite until WW I. Many grand old hotels

remain from this time, and the promenade along the water affords a fine view. A massive concrete arch bridge links Island Krk to the mainland. It has many tourist hotels and many medieval churches and walls built in the 12th-15th centuries. Medieval Rab was an outpost of Venice for hundreds of years until the Austrians took over in the 19th century. Tall church towers rise above the red-roofed mass of houses on Rab's high peninsula. Places to stay in Istria range from private rooms for as little as $30/night to hotels that can cost up to $150/ night. Prices vary according to the time of year (May-September is high season). Most of the nearly 100 campgrounds along the Croatian coast operate from mid-May to September only. Dalmatia is Croatia's most famous vacation area. Historical relics abound in towns like Zadar, Trogir, S p l i t , H v a r, K o r c u l a , a n d Dubrovnik. These towns are framed by a striking natural beauty of barren slopes, green valleys, and clear water. A warm current flowing north up the coast keeps the climate mild. You can swim in the sea right up until the end of September. Unfortunately, Dalmatia was not spared the damages of the former Yugoslavia's civil war, and many historic sights suffered shelling. Although most damages have been repaired, many hotels and restaurants are still closed because of fewer tourists. On the bright side, Dalmatia is not as crowded or expensive as it was before the war. The drive from Zagreb to Dubrovnik takes longer than 9 hours and the winding, two-lane coastal highway is scenic, but slow going, especially if you're behind trucks and buses. Daily flights from Zagreb to Dubrovnik cost about $100 one way but prices vary according to the time of year. There are ferries from Rijeka and Split to Dubrovnik as well. Croatia's oldest tour company is the Atlas Travel Agency. Its “adventure” tours feature bird watching, canoeing, caving, cycling, diving, fishing, hiking, riding, sailing, sea

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Croatians at outdoor café in Ban Jelacic square in Zagreb

kayaking, and white-water rafting in both Croatia and Slovenia. Zagreb is accessible to Italy, Slovenia, Austria, and Germany. Ljubljana (a 2-hour drive from Zagreb) is near the mountain and lake resort district. Lake Bled is a resort area, which features an excellent golf course as well as the full range of winter sports. Trieste, Italy, and Graze, Austria, are favorite shopping towns-both about 2-3 hours' drive from Zagreb. Budapest and Vienna are about 5-6 hours' drive away. Venice is 4 hours' drive away. From Zagreb it is easy to explore and enjoy other European cities.

Entertainment Zagreb's cultural life is rich: operas, concerts, chamber music, ballet, and theater are presented regularly. A monthly guide to events and performances in Zagreb is published by the Tourist Association, and copies can be obtained from the Tourist Information Center on the main square Trg Ban Jelacica. The guide

is packed with useful information on museums, galleries, sports and recreational activities, restaurants, entertainment, etc. Opera season runs from September to April and offers a wide variety of German, Italian, and Croatian operas, usually sung in their original languages. Numerous concerts by orchestras and chamber music groups are presented throughout the year. Stage plays are performed in many theaters, but most theater is presented in Croatian. The Zagreb Puppet Theater for children (of all ages) presents shows in Croatian, but for English speakers the stories are often familiar, such as “The Three Little Pigs,” or “Hansel & Gretel.” Movie theaters (kinos) are popular around Zagreb and show feature films from all over the world-many of them recent U.S. films. Admission

Courtesy of the Croatian Embassy

fees are low. Most cinemas show films in the original language with Croatian subtitles. Zagreb has discos, casinos, and nightclubs as well. The B.P. Club is the best known jazz club in town. It is run by Bosko Petrovic, one of Croatia's best known jazz artists. Dance clubs such as Saloon and Kulusic are popular among the younger set. In Croatia there are different types of restaurants: Restaurants, which offer international cuisine; Gostionica, which serves regional Croatian cuisine, i.e., dalmatinska; Bistro, which serves sandwiches, pizza, and snacks; Cafe Bar, which serves drinks and coffee only; and Slaticarna, which serves cakes, pastries, and baked goods. Dining in the local restaurants is a popular pastime. Zagreb is full of small cafes where you can order drinks, pizza, or ice cream. In summer and fall, tables are set up out81

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doors, providing some relief from the ever-present haze of cigarette smoke indoors. McDonald's opened its first restaurant in Zagreb last year, and the chain is spreading around town, including a drive-in at one. Ethnic restaurants are becoming more popular. There are newly opened Chinese, Turkish, Indian, Mexican, and Italian restaurants in town. Many Zagreb restaurants offer similar menus, with roasted and grilled pork and lamb, also some veal and beef as the mainstay specialties. Prices at several good restaurants range in price from $20$40 per person. Eating out in Zagreb at a nice restaurant is not a child-friendly experience. Home delivery of fast food is not available, but a few pizza and Chinese places offer takeout.

Social Activities The American community in Zagreb is small. In addition to U.S. employees and their families at the Embassy, you can meet other U.S. citizens who work for humanitarian relief organizations, the American School, the UN, as missionaries, American citizens married to Croatians, and journalists. A friendly and active international community exists in Zagreb. Frequent social events revolve around the various embassies represented here, but no one has special facilities. The American School of Zagreb has annual picnics and holiday parties for families as well as spring and Christmas programs which the children present for parents. The International Women's Club (IWC) is open to wives of business and diplomatic personnel, as well as Croatians. The IWC sponsors tennis, yoga classes, nights at the opera, a mother and toddler group, and language groups. The IWC also supports many charities. Their major fund raising event is the annual Christmas bazaar. Monthly meetings are held to exchange news and views over coffee. The active chapter of the “Hash House Harriers” gathers for a run and barbecue every month or so. 82

The Harriers, founded originally by British diplomats in Kuala Lumpur, are popular all over the world.

OTHER CITIES DUBROVNIK, established by the Greeks in the seventh century and virtually independent through its long history, is a lovely seaport on the Adriatic, and a major Croatian resort. Arts and literature flourished in Dubrovnik during medieval times. Traces of its early architecture remain—parts of the original city walls; a historic palace; the customs house and the mint; and several monasteries, one of which housed an ancient apothecary. Dubrovnik’s independence ended when Napoleon took the city in 1808 and made it part of the Illyrian provinces. It was assigned to Austria from 1815 until 1918, the year it was claimed by Yugoslavia. Today, Dubrovnik’s residents annually play host to thousands of European tourists who come to enjoy the climate and beauty of the Dalmatian coast. Swimming is excellent from April to October. At an annual festival, held in mid-summer, operas, ballets, and plays are presented in the city’s palaces, squares, and fortifications. An excellent view of the city is found at the summit of Mount Srdj, which is reached by cable car. During Croatia’s 1991 civil war, Dubrovnik was shelled by Yugoslav Federal Army tanks, artillery batt a l i o n s, a n d g u n b o a t s . M a n y ancient buildings, monuments, and hotels were heavily damaged or destroyed. The city of KARLOVAC, located 33 miles (53 kilometers) southwest of Zagreb, is situated at the confluence of the Korana and Kopa Rivers. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the city was unsuccessfully attacked several times by the Turks. A fortress, built in the 16th century, still stands today as a reminder of Karlov a c ’s p a s t . K a r l o v a c i s o n e o f Croatia’s important industrial centers. Industries in the city produce chemicals, footwear, and wool. The city is linked by rail with Zagreb

and serves as a transit point for wine, grain, and timber. Karlovac is also the home of Croatia’s oldest public library. The industrial city of OSIJEK lies along the banks of the Drava River in eastern Croatia. A fortress dominates the upper, or old, town, while the lower is the city’s commercial and industrial heart. Textiles, tanneries, and manufacturing provide employment for Osijek’s residents. The nearby town of Borovo has a large footwear factory, as well as a rubber-producing plant. Osijek received heavy damage during the Croatian civil war after Serbian forces shelled and besieged the city. Considerable Roman remains can be found in the Croatian port city of PULA, which is situated on the Istrian peninsula in northwestern Croatia. Located about 50 miles south of Trieste, Italy, Pula is a naval base and shipbuilding center. Historically, the city was established in 178 B.C. as a Roman military and naval base. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times and has seen the passing armies of the Byzantines, Franks, and Venetians. Pula became part of Austria via the 1797 Peace of Campoformio, part of Italy via the Treaty of St. Germain in 1919, and was assigned to Yugoslavia in 1947. Roman remains include the Temple of Diana; a triumphal arch; and a three-tiered amphitheater with 72 arches that seats 23,000 people. Roman and Byzantine mosaics may be found in Pula’s archeological museum. Pula is also the site of many medieval churches and old palaces. Several beautiful, sandy beaches also attract tourists. The city is an important economic and industrial center. Industries in Pula produce textiles, glass, cement, and machinery. RIJEKA, a seaport in northwestern Croatia, was known to the Italians as Fiume during the years of domination by that country after World War I. Early in its history, the city was part of the Byzantine Empire, later came under the domination of Croatian dukes and, in succeeding

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Cities of the World years, passed to Austria, France, and Hungary. Italy, which had occupied the city in 1918, left the Paris Peace Conference the next year in a dispute over the area. Rijeka became a free city-state in 1920 in the Treaty of Rapallo, but fascist troops overthrew its government, and the city was divided—Rijeka (or Fiume) went to Italy, and the Suo Barros, to Yugoslavia. It was not until 1947 that the two parts were reunited in a formal transfer to the latter country. The old section of Rijeka has buildings dating from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Numerous museums, art galleries, theaters, and a library are located in the city. Rijeka is an important port and a departure point for cruises along Croatia’s Adriatic coast. Several major industries are located in Rijeka, among them are oil refining and shipbuilding. SPLIT is an important Croatian commercial center on the Adriatic. Its superb location on the Dalmatian coast has made it one of Croatia’s leading resorts, with modern beaches and good hotels. Split’s history began in the seventh century, when residents of the nearby colony of Salona fled from Avar invaders and took refuge at the palace of Diocletian, a Roman emperor of earlier centuries. A new settlement, Spalatum (now Split) grew within the palace walls. For hundreds of years, the town existed under a succession of rulers—Byzantine, Venetian, and Austrian— until it was claimed in 1918 by Yugoslavia. During World War II, the city was occupied by German troops. Some ruins of the destroyed colony of Salona are still found close by. Split itself has numerous monuments and a cathedral of note, once the mausoleum of Diocletian. Split is a major cultural center, with a number of museums and art galleries. One gallery honors Jan Mestrov i c, o n e o f C r o a t i a ’s g r e a t e s t sculptors. There are frequent presentations of opera, concerts, and ballet. Five miles northeast of Split are the ruins of Salona, a major Roman port.

The city of ZADAR is situated on Croatia’s Adriatic coast. Zadar was founded in the ninth century and today is an important cultural and economic center. Cultural activities in the city are centered around museums, theater, and art galleries. Zadar has many historical buildings and monuments that are of interest to visitors. The historic sites include the remains of a Roman forum, an Arch of Triumph built in honor of the Roman emperor Trajan, a ninth-century church (St. Donat), a thirteenthcentury cathedral (St. Anastasia), a Franciscan church and monastery, and many medieval churches. During the summer, St. Donat’s h o ld cl as sic al mu si c con c ert s. Zadar is the home of several industries and is noted for the production of Maraska cherry liqueur. Other industries in Zadar manufacture rope, cotton and synthetic textiles, leather, processed fish, cigarettes, and plastics.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Croatia is situated at the intersection between central Europe and the Balkans. Croatia covers 56,500 square kilometers (21,829 square miles) of mainland and somewhat less than 32,000 square kilometers (12,316 square miles) of sea. The Adriatic coastline, which includes 1,185 islands, islets, and reefs, is 5,740 kilometers (3,566 miles) long and famed for its clear waters. The republic swings around like a boomerang from the Pannonian Plains of Slavonia between the Sava, Drava, and Danube Rivers, across hilly central Croatia to the Istrian Peninsula, then south through Dalmatia along the rugged Adriatic coast. Croatia is about the size of West Virginia. It is bordered by Slovenia to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Serbia to the east, Bosnia and Herzegovina to the south, and Montenegro to the southeast.

Croatia's geography is diverse with its rocky coastline, densely wooded mountains, plains, lakes, and rolling hills. In an effort to preserve its environment, Croatia maintains seven national parks. Zagreb's climate is predominately continental, with hot and dry summ e r s a n d c o l d w i n t e r s. R a i n y weather, with accompanying fog and smog, is common in the fall from October through December. In winter, from December to March, snowfalls can be frequent, occasionally heavy, and temperatures sometimes fall below zero. The sun may not appear for weeks on end. Mean minimum and maximum temperatures are 20 °F-38 °F in January; 60 °F-81 °F in July. On the coast, the climate is typically Mediterranean with long, hot summers and moderate winters.

Population According to the State Statistics Bureau 1995 estimate, Croatia's population is 4.78 million. The population of Zagreb is 930,550. There has been no census since 1991 because of the war in the former Yugoslavia. However the last census split the population as follows: 3.7 million Croatians, 580,000 Serbs, 43,500 Moslems, and 113,000 others (Slovenes, Italians, Czechs, Albanians, Montenegrins, Gypsies, and Macedonians). Some 2.3 million ethnic Croats live abroad, including almost 1.5 million in the U.S. Pittsburgh and Buenos Aires have the largest Croatian communities outside Europe. Roman Catholics account for 77% of the population. The Serbian-Orthodox represent 11%, Moslem 1.1%, and 633 Jews (0.01%). The remainder includes Greek Catholics, Protestants, and others. Croatian is a South-Slavic language. Before 1991, both Croatian and Serbian were considered dialects of Serbo-Croatian. However, since the war this term is no longer used. Croatian uses Roman script and spelling is phonetic. Because 83

Croatia Croatia was historically part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, German is the most commonly spoken second language in Croatia. Many people in Istria understand Italian, and English is widely spoken among the youth in Zagreb.

Public Institutions Croatia first emerged as a nationstate in 925 A.D. and later became a semi autonomous province of Hungary, a status that lasted until the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire following World War I. In the intervening years, Croatia faced wave after wave of would-be conquerors, principally from the Venetian and Ottoman Empires. With the defeat of the AustroHungarian empire in WW I, Croatia became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (called Yugoslavia after 1929) with a centralized government in the Serbian c a p i t a l B e l g r a d e. I n 1 9 3 9 , a n administrative reorganization granted Croatia some regional autonomy. After the German invasion of Yugoslavia in March 1941, a puppet government dominated by the fascist Ustasa movement was set up in Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina under the leadership of Ante Pavelic. Pavelic proclaimed the Independent State of Croatia (NDH). The Ustasa launched an extermination campaign that surpassed even that of the Nazis in scale, murdering perhaps as many as 350,000 ethnic Serbs, Jews, and Gypsies and Croats who disagreed with the regime. At the end of WWII, Croatia became one of six federal republics of the new socialist Yugoslavia, under the control of the Communist and former partisan leader Josip BrozTito. Tito's ruthlessness and political skill built a union which, despite unresolved underlying ethnic conflicts, lasted until well after his death. 84

Cities of the World In 1989, with political changes sweeping Eastern Europe, many Croats felt the time had come to end more than four decades of Communist rule and attain complete autono m y. I n t h e A p r i l 1 9 9 0 f r e e elections, Franjo Tudjman's Croatian Democratic Union (Hrvatska Demokratska Zajednica) easily defeated the old Communist Party. On May 30, the new Croatian Parliament was formally established, and on December 22, 1990, a new Croatian Constitution was promulgated. On June 25, 1991, Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia. The Serb minority opposed its secession and started a rebellion, backed by the Serbian-led Yugoslav army. During 6 months of fighting in Croatia, 10,000 people died, hundreds of thousands fled, and tens of thousands of homes were destroyed. By January 1992, when a U.N. cease-fire was agreed to, one-third of Croatia was under the control of the Serbs, who proclaimed their own republic of Krajina comprising three enclaves. Croatia was formally recognized by the European Community (now European Union) on January 15, 1992. The U.S. recognized the new nation on April 7, 1992. Croatia became a U.N. member in May 1992. In August 1992, Tudjman was elected President and his HDZ party won an absolute majority in the Lower House of Parliament. In two blitz offensives in May and August 1995, the Croatian army reconquered the largest chunks of the Krajina, prompting an exodus of Serbs. In November 1995, Zagreb agreed to peacefully reintegrate the last Serb enclave of Eastern Slavonia (located along the Danube River border with Serbia). According to the Erdut Agreement, reintegration was projected in 1998. Until that t ime, a tra nsi tional U.N. administration is present. In December 1995, Croatia signed the Dayton Peace Agreement, committing itself to a permanent cease-fire and the return of all refugees.

The Government in Croatia is divided among three branches: executive (President and Cabinet), legislative (Parliament), and judicial. The supreme executive power in Croatia is the President. The current President was reelected in June 1997 for a second 5-year term. The President appoints the Prime Minister and other members of the government. All executive appointments require confirmation by the Chamber of Representatives. The ruling HDZ party continued to dominate by winning the October 1995 elections for Parliament's lower house and the April 1997 vote for the upper house of Parliament and local administrative bodies. The Parliament, the highest legislative body, consists of two Chambers: The Chamber of Representatives and the Chamber of Provinces. Legislation mandates that national minorities be represented in Parliament. The following political parties in Croatia are represented in Parliament: Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ) Croatian Social Liberal Party (HSLS) Croatian People's Party (FINS) Croatian Peasant's Party (HSS) Social Democratic Party of Croatia (SDP) Croatian Party of Right (HSP) Istrian Democratic Parliament (IDS) Serbian National Party (SNS) Croatian Independent Democrats (FIND) Croatian Christian Democratic Union (HKDU) Croatian Independent Democratic (FIND) Action of Social Democrats (ASH) Independent Serb Democratic Party (SDSS) Slavonia-Baranja Party (SBHS) The Chamber of Representatives nominates and confirms the 15 members of the Supreme Court, Croatia's highest judicial body.

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Arts, Science, and Education Croatia has 219 museums, galleries, and museum collections, as well as 60 ecclesiastical and numerous private collections. There are 659 specialists, curators, restorers and researchers who oversee about five million objects in 1,100 various collections, a treasury of the cultural and natural heritage of Croatia. The Mimara, one of Zagreb's most prominent museums, contains the works of Rafael, Rubens, Velazquez, Goya, Rembrandt, Hals, Degas, and Pissaro. The Mimara has 42 exhibition halls and a multimedia center. The diverse collection also contains large sections of glassware, sculpture, and oriental art. The Strossmayer Gallery houses many of the Old Master works such as Botticelli, Bellini, Tintoretto, Veronese, and El Greco. The Archeological Museum contains one of Europe's richest numismatic collections including some 260,000 samples of old coins, medals, medallions, and decorations. There are also Roman stone monuments dating back to the period from the first to the fourth centuries B.C. The Ethnographic Museum has collections of Croatian folk costumes, delicate pieces of lace from the Island of Pag, gold embroidered scarves from Slavonia, and the jewelry of Konavle. Also popular in Zagreb are the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Croatian Museum of Naive Art. The works of Croatia's most famous sculptors, Antun Augustincic and Iv an Mestr ovic, are r enowned beyond Croatia's borders. Mestrovic's works can be seen all around Croatia. His sculpture and architecture display a powerful classical style he learned from Rodin. His Zagreb studio and his retirement home in Split have been turned into galleries displaying his work. Croatian naive art has also gained an international reputation. The most celebrated painters in the naive style are Ivan and Josip Generalic, Ivan Vecenaj, Mijo Kovacic, and

Ivan Rabuzin. The newly opened “Cudo Hrvatske Naive” exhibits and sells naive art. It also organizes exhibitions of Croatian naive artists abroad.

summer many coastal cities stage international festivals such as the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, the Split Summer Festival, and Zadar Music Evenings.

Zagreb has 20 theaters, the oldest of which is the Croatian National Theater, founded more than a century ago and built in the neo-Baroque style. Culture was heavily subsidized by the Communists, and admission to operas, ballets, and concerts is still reasonable. Season opera tickets in Zagreb (OctoberMay) can be purchased for $15-$60. Operas are presented in their original languages, though the quality of performances is hit and miss. Visiting opera companies from the region perform as well. Zagreb has a popular children's puppet theater. Most theater is performed in Croatian. The Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall is the favorite place to hear the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra and various holiday musical concerts. Among those who started their artistic careers in Zagreb and went on to achieve international fame are pianist No Pogorelic, opera diva Ruza Pospis-Baldani, and conductor Vjekoslav Sutej.

Zagreb is a university center-home to some 40 graduate and undergraduate schools and over 80,000 students. Its first secular school was founded in the mid-14th century. The first secondary school was established at the beginning of the 16th century, and the university opened its doors in the second half of the same century. Zagreb University is one of the oldest universities in Europe. The roots of higher education began with the establishment of the Jesuit Gymnasium in 1632 to teach moral theology. Thirty years later, in 1662, the Academy for Philosophy was introduced. In 1669, Emperor Leopold granted the school the right to award doctorates. The cities of Split, Zadar, Osijek, and Rijeka also have universities.

Croatian folk music has had many influences. The kolo, a lovely Slavic round dance in which men and women alternate in the circle, is accompanied by Gypsy style violinists or players of the tambura, a three- or five-string mandolin popular throughout Croatia. The measured guitar playing or rhythmic accordions of Dalmatia have a gentle Italian air. The Croatian folkloric ensemble “Lado” perform lively Mediterranean dance rhythms and sing folk songs with haunting voices. Zagreb hosts many international cultural events such as the International Folklore Festival, Internat i o n a l C o m p e t i t i o n o f Yo u n g Conductors, International Jazz Fair, Musical Biennial Zagreb, International Festival of Avant-garde Theaters, International Festival of Puppet Theaters, and the International Garden Exhibition. During

Croatia has about 2,000 libraries: 160 rank as scientific libraries, 4 of which are university libraries. The University of Zagreb Library is also considered the National Library. There are 91 faculty libraries, 60 libraries attached to research instit u t e s, a n d 1 c e n t r a l l i b r a r y (attached to the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences). The Academy of Arts and Sciences was founded in 1860. Zagreb has the following cultural institutes: The French Institute has a library and reading room. CD's and videos can be borrowed. Cultural activities include theater, films, dance, lectures, and concerts. The American Embassy's Peace Memorial Library, open to everyone, has more than 6,000 books by American authors and 200 magazines and journals in its stacks. A reference librarian is on staff. The Austrian Cultural Institute sponsors such activities as concerts, exhibitions, seminars, lectures, and courses for preschoolers in German.

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Croatia The British Council has a large selection of books, periodicals, reviews, and videos. The Council promotes cultural, educational, and technical cooperation between Britain and other countries. The Italian Cultural Institute in Zagreb has various cultural activities including films, concerts, shows, literary meetings, scholarships, and research assistance for students. The Goethe Institute has a large public library with books, magazines, newspapers, CD's, and videos.

Commerce and Industry The former Communist government of Yugoslavia emphasized heavy industry, especially in aluminum, chemicals, petroleum and shipbuilding. Today, Croatia is the world's third-largest shipbuilder, with most of the output from the shipyards of Pula, Rijeka, and Split intended for export. The following industries are centered in Zagreb and surrounding areas: chemical, machine tool manufacture, electrical engineering, and textiles. About 80% of Croatia's petroleum comes from local oil wells. Most of the wells in the former Yugoslavia were in Croatia, north and east of Zagreb. In the past, one-third of Croatia's national income has come from tourism, but in 1991 and 1992 Croatia received few visitors on account of the war. By 1993 Germans, Austrians, and some Italians had returned to Istria, but Dalmatia has had a slower recovery. The collectivization of agriculture just after WW II failed and private farmers with small plots continue to work most of the land. The interior plains produce fruit, vegetables, and grains (especially corn and wheat), while olives and grapes are cultivated along the coast. Croatia is negotiating admission to the World Trade Organization and the Central European Free Trade Organization (CEFTA) with member countries. It is also one of sev86

Cities of the World eral post-Communist countries seeking to become part of the European Union. Three international rating agencies gave Croatia investment grade ratings of BBB-andequivalent in January 1997. Standard and Poor's placed it just behind Poland and ahead of Slovakia and Greece. Since independence, Croatia has had to completely reorient its trade after the loss of markets in the southern regions of former Yugoslavia. In 1992 Italy, Germany, and Slovenia together accounted for well over 50% of Croatia's imports and e x p o r t s. T h e a v e r a g e w a g e decreased during the war to US$125 a month. Most Croats only manage to make ends meet because they still receive subsidized housing, health care, education, etc., and many hold down two or three jobs. Relatives abroad send money home and much of the rural population grows its own food. Others have savings from the good years before 1991. An austerity program introduced in 1993 curbed inflation, which was running at 3 8% a month. In 1996 it was 3.5%. Although the inflation rate has stabilized, prices are noticeably increasing and are comparable with costs in large, urban U.S. areas. The IMF estimates GDP rose by 5% in 1996. In 1995 industry accounted for 20% of GDP, public sector services 24%, agriculture 11%, trade 9%, and tourism 4%-5%. Unemployment in 1997 was high at 16.6%. Croatia is in the intermediate phase of the implementation of a complete economic reform program under agreement with the IMF. This 3year program, to last until the end of 1999, worked to achieve an economic growth level with low inflation (3%-4% annually), maintain a stable exchange rate and low budget deficit, implement basic and structural reforms, and ensure an adequate social security network. There are detailed studies about the development of payment transactions and the introduction of highliability systems to increase surveil-

lance over bank bonds. Croatia decided it would not take up the second and third branches of this $486 million 3-year loan agreed by the IMF earlier this year. U.S. policy supports strengthening bilateral economic ties particularly bu s i n e s s r e l a t io n s. C r o a ti a i s included in the Generalized System of Preferences. The Overseas Private Investment Corporation covers political and war risk for U.S. firms investing in Croatia. Croatia is a member of the International Monetary Fund, IBRD, and EBRD and is seeking to be a party to the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT). The U.S. Business Council for Southeastern Europe (formerly the U.S.-Yugoslav Economic Council) and its Croatian counterpart, the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, work to stimulate economic cooperation and to develop further business opportunities. Croatia signed an agreement for a $5 million PL-480 Title I loan for the purchase of U.S. sunflower seed oil in 1997. Bilateral agreements on investment and double taxation were also concluded in 1997. Throughout the war, U.S. trade and investment in Croatia was minimal, although it is increasing. In May 1994, Croatia replaced its currency, the dinar, with the kuna, which takes its name from the marten, an animal whose pelt served as a means of exchange in the Middle Ages.

Transportation Automobiles The large car rental chains represented in Croatia are Avis, Budget, Euro car, and Hertz. Independent local companies are often less expensive than the international chains. At all agencies, the cheapest car is the Renault 4 and prices begin around US$125 a day plus US$0.20 per km (100 km minimum), or U S $300 to U S $350 a week with unlimited km. Full collision insurance is US$8 a day extra and theft

Croatia

Cities of the World insurance is another US $8 a day. Add 20% tax to all charges.

Automobile Association (HAK) at telephone (385) (1) 455-4433.

Local

Regional

Public transportation is cheap and reliable with trams and buses leaving every 30 minutes from stops all around the city and surrounding hills. Taxis are available at taxi stands throughout the city, or may be ordered by phone. Taxis are safe, but quite expensive with meters that begin at US$1.25 and ring up US$0.65 a kilometer. Rates are higher after 10 pin and on Sunday. For convenience, bring your own transportation. Although local transportation is readily available, it is usually very crowded, especially during rush hour. Roads throughout Croatia are narrow-certainly not as wide as by Western standards-and parking is often tight in Zagreb, so consider a mid- to compact sized vehicle. Roads are in fair shape and are maintained and cleaned regularly. Of course, there are still numerous potholes to be avoided. Main roads are plowed in winter, but secondary and side roads are not always cleared. The hills and twisting roads outside the center of Zagreb are often treacherous in bad weather. Bring snow tires for your car. Croatians drive more recklessly than the average American, so defensive driving is a must. Motorists must also pay special attention to the trams (streetcars). Since independence, Croatia has seen increasing numbers of cars. Now, roads toward the coast on weekends and in major cities experience heavy congestion on weekends and during rush hour. Primary roads are generally adequate, but most have only one lane in each direction, including roads to and from the coast. If you travel through former conflict areas, stay on paved roads to reduce the risk of encountering leftover mines. Emergency road help and information may be reached by dialing 987. For additional road condition and safety information, contact the Croatian

From the main railway station there are daily international lines for Munich, Vienna, Venice, Budapest, Paris, Geneva, Graz, and Moscow. There are daily international bus lines to: Graz, Munich, Stuttgart, Frankfurt, Dortmund, Cologne, Zurich, and Barcs. Twice weekly buses leave for Berlin and Istanbul. Zagreb Airport is located in the village Pleso, 17 kilometers from the center of the city, about a 25-minute drive. Airlines servicing Zagreb include Croatia Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa, Pan Avia, Swissair, Aeroflot, Air France, Austrian Airlines, Air Canada, and British Airways. Croatia Airlines has flights from Zagreb to Amsterdam (1 hour and 45 minutes), Berlin (2 hours and 15 minutes), Brussels (2 hours and 30 minutes), Budapest, Copenhagen (1 hour and 40 minutes), Dusseldorf, Frankfurt (1 hour and 30 minutes), Hamburg, London (2 hours and 10 minutes), Madrid, Manchester, Moscow (3 hours and 15 minutes), Munich, Paris (1 hour and 50 minutes), Prague, Rome (2 hours and 30 minutes), Skopje, Stuttgart, Tirana, Vienna (1 hour), and Zurich (1 hour and 15 minutes).

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone service in Zagreb is good and reliable. Personal e-mail and Internet accounts can be established with America On-line or the C r o a t i a n t e l e p h o n e c o m p a n y. Expect to pay higher user rates than you would in the U.S. Long-distance calls to the U.S. are expensive (two to three times higher than calls placed from the U.S.) but relatively inexpensive to continental Europe. International operators can be accessed directly for AT&T, MCI, and SPRINT. The Croatian Post Office's telegram service is inexpensive and reliable.

Radio and TV Broadcasting in Croatia is dominated by Croatian Radio and Television (HRT). Croatia passed legislation on private TV and radio stations in July 1994 and has begun granting licenses and frequencies for local and regional radio and television. Several small local radio stations emerged after independence. State-controlled HRT broadcasts daily on three television channels and three radio channels. HRT radio programs reach more than 96% of the population. TV programs reach 93% of the population. The prominent, semi-independent station, OTV Youth Television, reaches only the greater Zagreb area. Croatian radio broadcasts are similar in format to Western European stations lectures and talk showsand the music is largely Western. The stations are diverse, playing classical, pop (Top 40), and jazz music. European “club techno” music is popular with Croatia's youth. Croatian radio broadcasts the news in English every day at 8 am, 10 am, 2 pm, and 11 pm. Various radio stations are accessible on the Astra Satellite (19.2 degrees E), such as Virgin (UK), SKY (Holland), BBC 1-5, Radio France International, and America One (NPR). American TV (NTSC) is incompatible with the local Croatian transmission system (PAL). A PAL TV or a multisystem TV with PAL capacity is necessary if you want to view Croatian/European TV Three Croatian channels show a lot of American movies and sitcoms with subtitles. Most employees purchase a satellite dish. A 1½-2-meter dish will bring most anything you would desire to view such as: NBC Super Channel, CNN, SKY, TNT, MTV, etc. It is a good idea to have a multisystem VCR, as many new video stores opening in Zagreb have a decent selection of movies.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Foreign newspapers and magazines can be found at newspaper kiosks all around the center of Zagreb. The 87

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International Herald Tribune, international editions of American and European news periodicals such as Time, Newsweek, or Paris Match, are available. Daily newspapers and some reviews can be read in the reading rooms of the various cultural centers and libraries in town. Permanent foreign media bureaus in Zagreb include the New York Times, Associated Press, AFP and Reuters. There are also stringers and visiting correspondents for various bureaus. There are three national and three regional dailies in Croatia: Vjesnik (Zagreb), government; Vecernji list (Zagreb), government; Novi list (Rijeka), private; Slobodna Dalmaciia (Split), private; Glas Slavoniie (Osijek), private; and La Voce Del Popolo (Rijeka), private; with a combined circulation of 375,000. The print media is under severe scrutiny by the government, which owns the majority shares of two of the three largest national news dailies. The Croatian news agency HINA serves all dailies. Popular weeklies include the tabloids Globus and Feral Tribune. Several weeklies and monthlies contain serious coverage of political, financial, and cultural events. A new English-language bookstore in the center of Zagreb sells paperbacks, technical and educational materials, children's books, and computer software, all at considerably higher prices than in the U.S. Recent books in English on the war in Croatia and maps are widely available. Magazine subscriptions from the U.S. by mail are more economical, and the selection of books is much greater through a bookbuying service on the internet or a book club/catalog.

Health and Medicine Community Health The public water supply is considered safe in all major cities in Croatia. Naturally carbonated mineral water (“mineralna voda”) is

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customarily sold in restaurants and stores. Sterilized long-life milk is available and has a shelf-life of 6 months. Fresh milk spoils quickly. Raw fruits and vegetables are of good quality, plentiful in season, and safe to eat using washing precautions normally followed in the U.S. Fish, meats, and poultry should be cooked well. Sewage and garbage disposal is adequate.

Preventive Measures Travelers should have their shot records up to date and be immunized against tick-borne encephalitis. A flu shot is also recommended before winter. Sinus and respiratory ailments are aggravated by wintertime smog, and springtime provokes allergy problems.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties A passport is required for travel to Croatia. A visa is not required for U.S. passport holders for tourist or business trips of less than 90 days. Visas are required for all other types of stays and must be obtained prior to arrival in the country. Unless the traveler is staying at a hotel, all foreign citizens must register with the local police within 48 hours of arrival. Failure to register is a misdemeanor offense: some Americans have been fined and/or expelled as a result of their failure to register. Additional information on entry requirements may be obtained from the Embassy of Croatia at 2343 Massachusetts Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, tel. (202) 588-5899 or from the Croatian consulates in New York City, Cleveland, Chicago or Los Angeles. Overseas, inquiries may be made at the nearest Croatian embassy or consulate. The Internet home page of the Croatian Embassy in Washington is http://www.croatiaemb.org. U.S. citizens are encouraged to register at the U.S. Embassy and

obtain updated information on travel and security within Croatia. The U.S. Embassy in Zagreb is located at Andrije Hebranga 2, tel. (385)(1) 455-5500, Internet home page: http://www.usembassy.hr. On weekends, holidays, and after hours, an Embassy duty officer can be reached at tel. (385)(1) 455-5281 or (385)(91)455-2384.

Special Information Relatively speaking, Croatia has a low crime rate, and violent crime is rare. Many people can be seen walking on the streets and riding public transportation after dark. Foreigners do not appear to be singled out; however, as in many cities, displays of wealth increase chances of becoming the victim of a pickpocket or mugger. Such crimes are more likely to occur in bus or railroad stations. There have been several incidents of petty crime in residences, and car theft is on the rise (Note: Most of the cars which have been stolen are 4 x 4 utility-type vehicles). Restrictions on movements exist within Croatia and precautions must be taken in areas of instability. In 1995, Croatian Government forces recaptured territory formerly controlled by rebel Serb forces. This area includes Western Slavonia and the Krajina Region. Although you can travel there, considerable risk of bodily harm caused by mines and unexploded ordnance continues to exist. The Dayton and Erdut Peace Accords ended fighting and reduced regional tensions. The remaining formerly Serb-held area of Eastern Slavonia is currently under UN administration. The region will be reintegrated into Croatia gradually. There continues to be isolated incidents of civil unrest, and you cannot enter the UN-administered part of Eastern Slavonia without prior UN authorization.

Cities of the World

Croatia

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1. . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6. . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1. . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 30. . . . . . . . . . Croatian State Day June 22 . . . . . . . . . Croatian Uprising Day Aug. 5 . . . . . . . . . . Homeland Thanksgiving Day Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Nov. 1. . . . . . . . . . . All Saints' Day Dec. 25. . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26. . . . . . . . . . St. Stephen's Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Dedijer, Vladimir. The Yugoslav Auschwitz & the Vatican: The Croation Massacre of the Serbs During WWII. Translated by Harvey Kendall. Buffallo, NY: Prometheus Books, 10992. Eastern Europe and the Commonwealth of Independent States, 1992. London: Europa Publications, Ltd., 1992.

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MAP PAGE

Nicosia, Cyprus

CYPRUS Republic of Cyprus

Major Cities: Nicosia, Limasso Other Cities: Famagusta, Kyrenia, Larnaca, Paphos, Salamis

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated September 1994. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

sons, or services between the two parts of the island.

tive villas characterize the newer parts of the town.

Since the 1960’s, the United States has supported efforts under U.N. auspices for a negotiated settlement of the Cyprus problem. Several sets of negotiations and initiations have been proposed. Because of changes in Cyprus developments, travelers going to Nicosia may want to update the more pertinent parts of this report by contacting either the State Department’s Office of Southern European Affairs (EUR/SE), or the Embassy.

Food

INTRODUCTION Cyprus has been divided since July 1974, when Turkey intervened militarily following a coup d’etat instigated by the military junta in Greece. The two Cypriot communities have lived separate existences since the outbreak of intercommunal trouble in 1963. Nearly all members of the Turkish Cypriot community live in the northern section of the island, while almost all Greek Cypriots are located in the south which is under the control of the Government of Cyprus. The 108-mile east-to-west “green line” between the two communities constitutes a buffer zone under the control of the United Nations Forces in Cyprus (UNFICYP). There is essentially no movement of goods, per-

MAJOR CITIES Nicosia Nicosia, estimated combined population 195,000, has been the capital of Cyprus since the 7th century A.D., and is the political and administrative center of the island. It is also located in the geographic center of the island on a broad plain, at the site of one of the “city-kingdoms” of antiquity, Ledra, which today lends its name to the town’s main shopping area. Nicosia has spread far outside its ancient but still intact city walls. Modern flats and offices and attrac-

Local food shops are well stocked with domestic products and imports f r o m G r e a t B r i t a i n , We s t e r n Europe, and some from the United States. Imported items are more expensive than comparable items in the United States. Beef, veal, pork, mutton, lamb, and ch i ck e n a r e a l way s av a i l a b le. Domestic meats are sold freshly butchered. Since meat is not graded, careful selection of cuts is necessary. Fresh fish is surprisingly limited in supply; mullet, sea bass, swordfish and squid are the principal varieties on the market. Frozen fish, shrimp and cod, as well as canned seafood such as oil or water-packed tuna, salmon and mussels are sold. Trout farms in the Troodos Mountains produce fresh and smoked fish, which is sold in stores in the city. There are numerous fish taverns and restaurants which offer both domestic and imported fish. Imported butter and margarine are stocked, as are fresh, powdered, evaporated, and condensed milk, and fresh cream. Past e uri zed fres h mi lk is read il y obtainable. Domestic olive oil is of good quality and not expensive. Cyprus cheeses, in most cases from 91

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goat’s milk, are popular with Americans. The selection of imported cheeses is limited and often unpredictable in supply. English and Irish Cheddar and English Stilton are good and inexpensive. Imported French cheeses are expensive. Fruits are varied, delicious, and reasonably priced in season. Cyprus grows an abundant winter-long supply of oranges, grapefruit, tangerines, lemons, and, to a lesser extent, avocados and apples. During the long summer, a variety of fresh fruit is available, such as watermelons, cantaloupes, cherries, apricots, plums, figs, pears, peaches, strawberries, nectarines, apples, pomegranates, and grapes. Good stocks of spinach, lettuce, cabbage, green beans, broad beans, chard, carrots, broccoli, mushrooms, celery, and green peppers are usually available. Eggplant and artichokes in season are abundant and inexpensive. Asparagus is available in season but is expensive. Onions, tomatoes, summer squash, zucchini, and potatoes are almost always available. Various fresh herbs and prepared spices are also sold. American made spices such as Durkee and McCormick are available but a bit expensive.

Clothing General: Cypriots, either officially or socially, dress well. Most Cypriot women prefer to be fashionably dressed. Cypriot men follow British custom in business dress and casual attire. Women’s Clothing: A normal yearround wardrobe, with perhaps fewer winter and more summer clothes, will do. Women wear either spring coats, blazers, and topcoats or light winter coats throughout the winter. Although some Cypriot women wear fur coats, there are no reliable fur storage facilities here. Lightweight dresses are needed in summer; daytime dresses with the slightest shoulder cover are acceptable. Imports from Europe are usually up-to-date but expensive. 92

Bathing suits and beach accessories can be purchased locally. Shoes produced locally are plentiful but can be more expensive than those made i n t h e s t a t e s. S h o e s a r e a l s o imported from Europe. Quality ranges from fine to poor; styles are current. Good quality leather goods are made here.

Men’s Clothing: Men wear cotton or wool suits all year round. Sweaters or jackets are useful in the winter. Suits made of washable cotton or cotton-synthetic mixtures are the most practical for summer. Short sleeved shirts are also worn in the summer months. In summer, shorts are worn at home, for sports, and on informal social occasions. Men’s custom-made business suits of fine British worsteds, are moderately expensive. Factory-made suits are cheaper, but are not always well-tailored. A variety of shirts, neckties, socks and underwear is available at fairly reasonable prices. There are good quality shoes available, but they are expensive. Men needing wider or narrower than average sizes may have difficulty being fitted. Children’s Clothing: Fine cotton or woolen fabrics cost more here than in the U.S. Children need warm indoor clothing and nightwear because houses and tile floors may be chilly. Clothing, shoes, and accessories for infants are much more expensive than in the United States, but all necessary items are obtainable here. However, local cribs, playpens and car seats do not meet U.S. safety standards.

Supplies and Services Supplies: Among the better known cosmetics sold on the island are Clinique, Elizabeth Arden, Revlon, Helena Rubenstein, Lancome and Lancaster. American brands sold here are not made in the United States and are not always of the same quality. Cosmetics are more expensive here than in the United States. Retail markets carry a good selection of very reasonably priced local

wines and liquors. Imported liquors are expensive. Local pharmacies, open day and night, carry complete stocks of medical supplies and drugs, including children’s pharmaceuticals. These items are normally British brand name pharmaceuticals.

Basic Services: Good quality shoe repair and dry cleaning services are available and moderately priced. Although laundries do acceptable work, they are expensive. You will find a good choice of barber and beauty shops.

Religious Activities The principal Christian religion of Cyprus is Greek Orthodox. The Turkish Cypriot community is predominately Sunni Moslem. The following churches conduct services in English and are attended by the American and other communities: • Nicosia Community Church (Interdenominational Protestant) •

St. Paul’s Anglican Church

• Holy Church •

Cross

Roman

Catholic

Seventh Day Adventist Church

• Interdenominational Congregation (Russian Cultural Center Building) • The Church of Jesus Christ (L.D.S.) • Even though the Jewish community numbers about 200, a synagogue has not been established. In Nicosia, services celebrating Jewish high holidays are held at the Israeli Embassy. There are other church services, both Protestant and Catholic, on the U.N. base.

Education The Montessori Centre: The Montessori Centre, opened in September l993, is a preschool for ages 2 through 6. The school utilizes Dr.

Cyprus

Cities of the World Maria Montessori’s philosophies, methods and materials. The two teachers received their Montessori training in London. Winter and summer uniforms are encouraged. The school charges CP 60 per month and operates from September through July. The school is located at 20 Dorieon St. Ayias Andreas, Nicosia. Tel. 454038..

The Romanos Nursery School: The Romanos Nursery School is a private English speaking nursery school in Nicosia. They accept children ages 2 through 6. The school has good quality instructional supplies and a nice area for playing. The older children are taught numbers, letters and are prepared for reading. The school is located at 15 Romanos St. Tel. 454878

Wee Care Nursery School: T h e We e Care Nursery School was founded by an American in l983. Affiliated with the American Academy school in Nicosia, Wee Care offers a full preschool curriculum with Christian religious values and beliefs. The school is located at 17 Delphon St., Nicosia. Tel. 462863.

Highgate Primary School: T h e Highgate Primary School is an English school, offering programs for children two to eleven. The school has special programs for gifted learners and children with learning disabilities. Winter and summer uniforms are required. Some grades have a waiting list. The school is located at 17 Heroes Ave., Ayios Andreas, Nicosia. Tel. 462027/499145.

American International School In Cyprus: The American International School in Cyprus was established by International Schools Services in September l987. An American based curriculum is offered to students in pre-kindergarten through grade twelve, with a boarding unit for students in grades nine through twelve. In 1992, the school was purchased by the owner of American schools in Cairo and Kuwait.

The facilities of the school include a modern library, computer and science laboratories, art, ceramics and photography rooms, a swimming pool, tennis and volleyball courts, and recreation, dining, audiovisual areas, and boarding facilities.

tional education. Many teachers are recruited from the United States to fill selected vacancies and hold advanced degrees. All faculty are active, participating members of the school community and sponsor after school and weekend activities.

• Calendar: The 180 day school year commences in late August, ends in mid-June, and is divided into two semesters. The school is closed during a two to three week winter holiday and a one week spring break in March.

• Library: The school library contains over 10,000 volumes and periodicals. Word processing, CD ROM electronic references, and a reference library room are available for student use before, during and after school hours.

• Academic Program: The academic program of AISC is organized into three divisions, the elementary school (pre-kindergarten through grade 4), the middle school (grades 5-8), and the high school (grades 9-12). • Elementary School: The curriculum at the elementary level is integrated through a single homeroom teacher for reading, English, math, science, and social studies. Additional instruction is provided by specialists in physical education, music, art, computers, and foreign language. The style of instruction is hands-on, exploratory, and participatory. • Middle School: The curriculum at the middle school level is delivered through a semi-departmentalized structure. The English and social studies classes are integrated and usually are taught by the same teacher. In addition to English/ social studies, all middle school students are enrolled in mathematics, science, and physical education. Each student is also enrolled in either a foreign language, one of the special classes in ESL or the learning center. • High School: A selection of required and elective courses are designed to prepare students for a wide range of options upon graduation. AISC requires 22 units of credit for either a college prep or general high school diploma. • Faculty: All teachers are experienced in American and interna-

• International Baccalaureate: The International Baccalaureate program, initiated in 1993, is a two year pre-university course, designed to facilitate the mobility of students and to promote international understanding. The comprehensive course of study for the Diploma is designed to provide students with a balanced education. Students holding the IB Diploma can be accepted by universities and other institutions of higher education in more than 65 countries. • ESL (English as a Second Language): The objective of the ESL program is to provide intensive English instruction in speaking, listening, reading, and writing, allowing non-English speaking students to attend the school and to quickly become a part of everyday learning and activities. • Activities: A variety of after school activities is available for students in grades 1-12. Students choose from such activities as volleyball, bowling, swimming, soccer, basketball, cross country, track and field, tennis, fine arts festival, student council, yearbook, Boy Scouts, weight training, charity fashion show, academic games, chess club, talent show, geography club, drama, ice skating, arts and crafts, gymnastics, horseback riding, newspaper, choir, and band. • Computers: All students, grades 1–12, use computers. The newest technology allows the students to use computers as an everyday tool. 93

Cyprus The school’s library uses CD ROM information access. AISC is a member of the Middle States Accreditation Association, EMAC (Eastern Mediterranean Activities Conference), the Near East South Asia(NESA) Council of Overseas Schools, and the National Honor Society of Secondary Schools. It is also affiliated with the International Baccalaureate organization. Senior Seminar is a required course for all seniors. A Senior Research Project is required for graduation. The following must be completed before admission to the school is granted: • Complete and return an application form • Furnish records/transcript from previous school • Present themselves for a formal interview with the headmaster • Sit for placement exams, if requested • Boarding students must complete a separate application form, which includes recommendations from previous teachers If there are any other questions, you may address them to: Headmaster, AISC PO Box 3947 Nicosia, Cyprus

The English School: The English School was founded in l900. The school is similar to a “selective grammar school” in England in its academic and out-of-class pro grams. It is coeducational with students aged 11-18, all pupils being admitted by selective and competitive examination. The school year is from mid September to late June, with 2-week holid ay s a t C h r i s t m a s a n d G r e e k Orthodox Ea ster. The mailing address is: 94

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The Falcon School: T h e Fa l c o n

away from Nicosia and has good beaches. It is also possible to join sports clubs or health clubs at some hotels in Nicosia which includes use of their swimming pools.

School is an educational foundation offering a continuous education for girls and boys aged 4½–18. It has facilities for studying languages, the Sciences, the Arts, music and a wide range of sports. The language of instruction is English.

Scuba Diving: Scuba tanks and equipment can be rented and filled locally, but if you have your own, bring them. Cost of locally made equipment is comparable to that in the United States.

The English School P.O. Box 3575 Nicosia, Cyprus

The school year begins in Early September and ends in late June. An entrance test and an interview is required prior to admission. The mailing address is: The Falcon School P.O. Box 3640 Nicosia, Cyprus

The Junior School: T h e Ju n i o r School was established in l944. Children are admitted to the school between the ages of 4 and 12. The curriculum and teaching methods are the same as would be found in the United Kingdom. There is a British Headmaster and the teachers are trained and qualified in the United Kingdom. The school year begins in September and ends in June. School uniforms are required. The mailing address is: The Junior School P.O. Box 3903 Nicosia, Cyprus

Sports Cyprus offers a variety of opportunities for participant and spectator s p o r t s. B e a c h e s c a n e a s i l y b e reached from Nicosia by private car. Bus transportation to the beaches is available, and “service taxis” may be shared at a nominal cost. Taxi service between Nicosia and other cities on the island is regularly available. Sports equipment and clothing of all kinds is available but expensive. Swimming: The proximity of the sea and the very hot summers drive most people in Cyprus to the water. The south coast is less than an hour

Wat e r S ki i ng : Wat e r sk i in g i s becoming more popular in Cyprus. It is best at Larnaca (45 minutes from Nicosia), but the sea is sometimes very choppy. Water skis are sold in Cyprus but at prices higher than in the United States. Horseback Riding: The Lapatsa sports complex, a 15-20 minute drive south of Nicosia, offers horseback riding lessons and trail riding. A hard hat and riding boots are required. Windsurfing: One of the most challenging and interesting sports in Cyprus is windsurfing. There are numerous beach es around the island with suitable conditions. Windsurfing is a good family sport. It is easily learned and requires few facilities. Equipment is available locally, but at prices higher than the United States. Skiing: Snow skiing in Cyprus has developed in recent years. Simple skiing is done from the beginning of January to the end of March on the slopes of Mount Olympus, a one and one-half hour drive from Nicosia. Several short trails, one of which is groomed, are available for cross-country skiing. The Cyprus Ski Club, located at Mount Olympus, offers the following facilities: • Permanent memberships

and

temporary

• Four electrically driven “T”-bar ski lifts •

A cross-country skiing track

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A ski shop with ski equipment

• Ski instruction instructors

by

qualified

Golf: A new golf course opened in 1993, near the town of Paphos about 2 hours from Nicosia, but is extremely expensive. Golf may be played at the British bases if you join the golf course. Tennis: Tennis is popular and facilities are good. Periodic tournaments are held at local clubs. Hunting: Hunting is limited to hares and partridges. The hunting season established by the government varies from year to year. During the season, hunting is permitted only on Wednesdays and Sundays. The number of licensed Cypriot hunters is quite large in proportion to the amount of game available. Fishing: Although fish are extremely scarce in the coastal waters, fishing with spear and snorkel can be most interesting. At some distance from the coast, there is good deep sea fishing; boats can be rented. Shoreline fishing would not satisfy the serious angler. There is no river or stream fishing, but shoreline fishing in some reservoirs has been reported to be good. Spectator sports include: Horseracing: The Nicosia horseracing season is nearly year round. Associate membership is open to Americans for a modest fee. The track has photo finish and an automatic tote board. Basketball: There are several American basketball players on teams here in Cyprus. Local as well as visiting teams are popular. Soccer: There are four divisions of soccer teams playing all over the island of Cyprus. Soccer is the most popular sport among Cypriots. Gymnasiums: Several well-equipped gyms, offering both weightlifting and aerobics programs, are present and have reasonable prices.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Picnics, sight-seeing, and camping are popular pastimes in Cyprus. A wide variety of old castles, monasteries, and ancient ruins are available to be explored. Kyrenia lies 16 miles north of Nicosia. A 7th century Byzantine castle, which also served the Venetians in the 15th century, overlooks the picturesque harbor. There are three castles on the Kyrenia Mountain Range which provide a beautiful view of the northern coast of Cyprus. Famagusta, once one of the main port cities of Cyprus, is about 40 miles east of Nicosia on Famagusta Bay. Its center is in a well-preserved Venetian walled city. Legend has it that the citadel which overlooks the Bay of Famagusta was the setting of Shakespeare’s “Othello.” To the north of Famagusta is the biblical port of Salamis where St. Paul entered Cyprus on his evangelical tour. Most of this ancient port is now submerged and the site offers a challenge to the snorkeler who might be interested in underwater archaeology. Larnaca is an active seaport located on Larnaca Bay about 30 miles southeast of Nicosia. Its salt lake is a winter haven for large flocks of flamingos. There is a monastery, churches and museums located in and around Larnaca. Limassol lies approximately 50 mile s southwest of Nicosia on Akrotiri Bay. Seven miles west of Limassol is the tower of Kolossi built in the 15th Century by the Knights of St. John Hospitaler. The ruins of Curium, an Achaean religious and political center of the 2nd century B.C., include remains of the Temple of Apollo and a beautiful stadium. It houses some Roman administrative and bathing facilities, fine mosaics and other ruins, including a fairly well-preserved Roman theater, sometimes put to contemporary use.

Paphos, off whose shores legend says Aphrodite arose from the sea foam, lies on the west coast. The scenic route to Paphos from Nicosia along the south shore comprises the grand tour of many of the archaeological high spots in Cyprus. The “Fontana Amorosa” (Love’s Spring), in the north part of Paphos, was a source of poetic inspiration during the classical age. It was said that whoever drank from it would fall in love. The cool, pine-forested Troodos Mountains, a 90-minute drive from Nicosia, offer relief from the heat in the summer and skiing in the winter. In the Troodos Mountains in the Paphos district, lies Kykko Monastery. It contains the cherished icon of the Virgin Mary painted by St. Luke. Not far from the monastery is a beautiful valley of 30,000 cedars. Archaeological Sites: The numerous archaeological sites on Cyprus are nearly all open to the public. All digs are under the jurisdiction and supervision of the Cyprus Department of Antiquities, and expeditions from other nations are often at work there. Some sites charge a nominal entrance fee; at others, you may wander at will, picnic on or near the site, and enjoy a freedom unknown at archaeological sites in other countries. Guidebooks available in Cyprus and brochures published by the Cyprus Museum give details of all the antiquities.

Entertainment Most cinemas in Nicosia are air-conditioned. They generally show first-run U.S. or British films. Admission is reasonably priced. The Nicosia Municipal Theater has operas, concerts, plays and ballets. Cyprus has a permanent, Government-sponsored national theater whose repertory consists of international and Greek plays, the vast majority performed in Greek. There are also private theatrical companies with a similar repertory. No opera or professional symphony orchestra exists, but occasionally foreign concert artists, symphony 95

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© Chris Hellier/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Seascape of Kyrenia, Cyprus

orchestras, or popular music ensembles visit the island.

months of the year, light conditions are excellent.

Night club entertainment exists in limited scope with a number of popular discotheques.

Social Activities

In addition to the restaurants offering standard and European cooking and atmosphere, less expensive and simpler tavernas serve Cypriot dishes, as well as those typical of the Near East. Most Americans like Cypriot food. Most types of photographic film are sold locally, although it is rather expensive. Facilities for developing and printing black-and-white and color film are adequate for all but color slides. Camera and photographic equipment sold in local shops is reasonably priced. The amateur photographer will find interesting subject matter in the varied landscape and local color of the island. During seven or eight 96

The American Women’s Club is an active body open to all women in Cyprus. Its purpose is to promote friendship among American, Cypriot, and other foreign women. It sponsors monthly programs of interest to the membership and organizes parties and fund-raising activities for charity. Activities include informal discussion groups, craft demons trat ions, cooking classes, and tours to archaeological sites. This group is active in welcoming new arrivals, providing information on local shopping, sight-seeing, schools, and any additional information helpful to settling in.

Limassol Limassol, with a population of 155,000, is on Akrotiri Bay, about 50

miles southwest of Nicosia. In this seaport city, the marriage of Richard the Lion-Hearted and his hardwon Berengaria of Navarre was celebrated with her coronation and dancing in the streets. Seven miles west of Limassol is the tower of Kolossi, built in the 15th century by the Knights of St. John Hospitale. The ruins of Curium, an Achaean religious and political center of the second century B.C., are a few miles west of Kolossi. This site includes remains of the Temple of Apollo and a stadium. Curium, with its superb Greco-Roman theater, is thought to have been founded by the Greeks; in the early centuries A.D., it housed some Roman administrative and bathing facilities, found in recent excavations. Some fine mosaics and other ruins, including a fairly wellpreserved Roman theater sometimes put to contemporary use, have been unearthed. Limassol is famed for its traditions and celebrations—an annual wine

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Cities of the World festival, the pre-Lenten carnival— and is rapidly developing as a tourist center. Hotels and apartment structures are being built close to the new harbor, and restaurants, tavernas, and nightclubs are opening up here in ever-increasing numbers. The Logos School of English Education is a coeducational institution in Limassol for grades kindergarten through 12. Founded in 1973, the school employs a combined U.S. and U.K. curriculum. There are also facilities for boarding and a planned seven-day program for boarders. The mailing address is P.O. Box 1075, Limassol, Cyprus.

OTHER CITIES FAMAGUSTA, once one of the main port cities of Cyprus, with a population of about 28,000, is 40 miles east of Nicosia on Famagusta Bay. Its center is in a well-preserved Venetian walled city. Legend has it that the citadel which overlooks the bay was the setting for Shakespeare’s Othello. The beautiful sand beaches and good hotels all along the shore give Famagusta (in Greek, Ammochostos) its name, which means “sand-hidden.” New Famagusta (Varasha) is now deserted, in the middle of a Turkish military zone. Further north from Famagusta and Salamis in the Kyrenia Range is Kantara Castle, 2,068 feet above sea level. “Kantara” means bridge in Arabic. The castle was named either by the Arab invaders or by Maronites from Lebanon who allegedly settled in that part of the island. Some say it was so named because its setting looks like an arch. This beautiful spot commands excellent views of the sea on both sides and long stretches of plain all around it. Both the summer resort, two miles from the castle, and the young forest in the district are called Kantara after the castle. KYRENIA, a city of 14,000 inhabitants, is 15 miles north of Nicosia. A

seventh-century Byzantine castle, which also served the Venetians in the 15th century, overlooks the picturesque harbor. The city is dominated by the Kyrenia Range and the Castle of St. Hilarion, built in 1228 on a mountain peak 2,200 feet above sea level and said to have been a source of inspiration for Walt Disney’s Snow White. LARNACA is an active seaport with a population of approximately 69,000, situated on Larnaca Bay, about 30 miles southeast of Nicosia. Its salt lake is a winter haven for large flocks of flamingos. Belief here is that Lazarus came to Lanarca after his resurrection, and was later consecrated as the district’s first bishop. The nearby Tekke of Umm Haram, a beautiful mosque built on the spot where the Prophet Mohammed’s stepmother is said to have died, is a holy place to all Muslims. A new international airport near the city, and the reconstructed harbor, with its deep-water berths, have increased the popularity of Larnaca as a resort. Hotels and apartment buildings are continually under construction here. The American Academy on Gregory Afxentiou Avenue, in operation since 1908, serves an international student body and follows a U.S., U.K., and Greek Cypriot curriculum. Twenty-five miles east of Larnaca is Ayia Napa, a small town with some of the best beaches in Cyprus. The town centers around a fine old monastery. Nearby are several coves with white sand beaches. The area is well developed for tourism. Good hotels abound and there are many apartments hotels and vacation apartments that can be rented short term. Aquatic sports facilities are good. PAPHOS, from whose shores Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, is said to have risen from the sea foam, lies on the west littoral. It has about 40,000 inhabitants. The scenic route to Paphos from Nicosia, along the south shore, comprises the grand tour of many of the principal archaeological spots in Cyprus. The Fontana Amorosa (Love’s Spring),

also known as the Baths of Aphrodite, in the north part of Paphos, is about half a mile from the sea. The spring was a source of poetic inspiration during the classical age, and it was claimed that whoever drank from it would fall in love. At Paphos, Christianity was introduced to Cyprus with the conversion by St. Pa u l o f t h e R o m a n g o v e r n o r, Sergius Paulus. The pillar on which Paul was tied to receive the 39 lashes still stands in Paphos. In the Troodos Mountains in the Paphos district, Kykko Monastery contains the cherished icon of the Virgin Mary painted by St. Luke. Warm hospitality is always extended to visitors. Not far from the monastery is a beautiful valley of 30,000 cedars. The Anglo American International School, for pre-kindergarten through grade 13, is located in Paphos. A coeducational day school with boarding facilities, Anglo American was founded in 1980 and is accredited by the Cypriot Ministry of Education. The school offers a U.S. and U.K. curriculum. The mailing address is 22-26 Hellas Avenue, Paphos, Cyprus. Just north of Famagusta, also on the bay, is the biblical port of SALAM I S , w h e r e S t . Pa u l e n t e r e d Cyprus on his evangelical tour. Most of this ancient port is now submerged, and the site, a fine swimming location, offers a challenge to the snorkeler who might be interested in underwater archaeology. The Greco-Roman ruins here include excellently preserved Corinthian pillars and some fine, although headless, caryatids and statues.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean, after Sicily and Sardinia, with an area of 3,572 97

Cyprus square miles. It is in the eastern Mediterranean basin, 44 miles south of Turkey, 64 miles west of Syria, and 150 miles north of the Nile Delta. The island has a maximum length of 150 miles from northeast to southwest and a maximum width of 60 miles from north to south. Two mountain ranges dominate the landscape. The narrow and largely barren Kyrenia Range in the north (maximum elevation 3,360 feet) rises almost directly up from the northern coastline and follows it from east to west for some 80 miles. The forest covered Troodos Range rises in the southwestern sector of the island, culminating in Mount Olympus at an altitude of 6,400 feet. Between the two ranges, extending from Morphou Bay in the west to Famagusta Bay in the east, lies the Mesaoria (“between the mountains”)—a broad, fertile, coastal plain which produces most of the island’s cereal grains and other crops. Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is on the Mesaoria. Throughout the long summer the plain is arid and parched, but in the winter and spring it is carpeted with a lush growth of young wheat and barley. The climate of Cyprus may be compared to that of South Central Texas. Cyprus has hot, dry, dusty summers and fairly cool, damp winters. Nicosia’s maximum mean temperature is approximately 80°F, while the minimum mean temperature is 50°F. From mid-June to mid-September, the temperature sometimes exceeds 100°F. After sundown, it usually falls to 60°F to 70°F. The summer heat is tolerable because humidity is usually low and high temperatures are often tempered by westerly winds. Nicosia’s summer weather is generally more comfortable than in the seaside towns, where humidity is higher though temperatures are lower. Because rain falls almost exclusively from December through March, water may be rationed in Nicosia in the summer. Winters are usually cool and damp. On the whole, the climate can be characterized as Mediterranean, healthy, and quite enjoyable. 98

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Population Cyprus has had no official census since 1973. Before 1974, its population was estimated at 630,000 persons, of whom almost 80 percent were ethnic Greek and 18 percent ethnic Turk. The remainder were mainly Armenians and Maronites, with a few Latins. The population estimate for July 2001 is 763,000. The foreign population in Cyprus includes some 1,200 U.N. troops, a resident British presence of over 13,000 (including retired persons and troops in the Sovereign Base Areas), and some 1,000 American citizens. The population is divided physically and culturally into two quite different societies—Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot. Each maintains its distinct identity based on customs, religion, language, and ethnic allegiance. Historically, this population was intermingled among six larger towns and over 600 small villages. One of the results of intercommunal violence during the 1960’s was the enclavement of most Turkish Cypriots and, after the 1974 war, the physical separation of the two communities by the present cease-fire line.

Communal Institutions The 1960 Constitution created a presidential system, with a Greek Cypriot President and Turkish Cypriot Vice President elected by their respective communities. As part of a number of safeguards designed to protect the rights of the Turkish Cypriot minority, the Vice President was given veto rights over defense, foreign affairs, and security matters. The Turkish Cypriots were also assured a representation of 3O percent in the civil service, and in the unicameral legislature which was to consist of 35 Greek Cypriot and 15 Turkish Cypriot members. The same ratio obtained in the 10-member Council of Ministers, three of whose members were Turk-

ish Cypriots, and one of whom had to hold the Defense, Interior, or Foreign Affairs portfolio. The constitutional system broke down with the outbreak of intercommunal fighting in late 1963, which led to the establishment of Turkish Cypriot enclaves. In the summer of 1974, a coup d’etat backed by the military junta in Athens led to Turkey intervening militarily and the occupation of some 37 percent of the island’s territory by the Turkish Army. In November, 1983, the Turkish Cypriot Administration declared itself the “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus”. The “TRNC” is recognized only by Turkey. Under the auspices of the U.N. Secretary General, intercommunal negotiations have been conducted at various stages since 1968, with the goal of trying to resolve differences between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities. The latest round of talks led to a draft “Set of Ideas.” There is also a focus on developing ways of building confidence between the two communities. The basic issues in the talks center around security, the nature and structure of the federal constitution, territory, refugees, and settlers. The Government of Cyprus has a Presidential system with a unicameral legislature, the House of Representatives. The President, Glafkos Ioannou Klirides, elected for a five-year term, was last elected in February 1998. The House was last elected in May 2001. The Greek Cypriot political scene is dominated by four main parliamentary parties. The oldest established Greek Cypriot party is the Communist party (AKEL), which currently has 20 of the 56 elected members of the legislature. The center-right Democratic Rally Party (DISY) holds 19 seats, the centrist Democratic Party (DIKO) holds 9 seats, and the Socialist party (EDEK) has 4 seats. The current President was a founding member of DISY party. The Democratic Party supported his

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Cities of the World candidacy in the final round of the elections. There are also four main Turkish Cypriot political parties. The Democratic Party (center-right) and the R e p u b l i c a n T u r k i s h Pa r t y (left-wing) formed a coalition following the December 12, 1993 election. Together the two parties have 19 seats in the 50-seat “assembly.” The National Unity Party (right-wing), has 24 seats, and the Communal Liberation Party (center-left) has 7 seats. The “TRNC President,” Rauf Denktas, was last elected in April 2000. Although the “constitution” nominally gives him little power, he is generally considered the most important and powerful political figure in northern Cyprus.

Arts, Science, and Education Prehistoric pottery and sculpture have been excavated throughout Cyprus. The making of pottery and other folk arts are still practiced on the island. Embroidery is one of the most developed of these arts. The revival of Cypriot painting began toward the end of the British rule. Many artists still show the effects of classical European training, although others reflect the Byzantine tradition. Younger artists show a definite leaning to American “hard edge” and other modern schools. Cypriots generally attend universities in Greece, the United Kingdom, Turkey, and the United States. There are many local colleges targeting foreign students and the new University of Cyprus opened its doors in Fall 1993.

Commerce and Industry The island’s division into two economic areas disrupted the country’s economic unity and overall productive capacity. While the economy in the area controlled by the Government of Cyprus (GOC) has devel-

oped and grown, the economy in the Turkish Cypriot-controlled north has been much weaker. A lack of technical expertise, foreign exchange reserves, and international financing have been inhibiting factors in this part of the island. Care of the refugee population took first priority in the years immediately after 1974. Satisfactory housing facilities were provided to displaced persons under the GOC low-cost housing and self-help schemes, partially financed by the U. S. G o v e r n m e n t t h r o u g h t h e United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). U.S. grant assistance for refugee programs between 1974 and 1992 totalled over 200 million dollars. Another 65 million dollars has been provided through the Cyprus-America Scholarship Program, which was established in 1981. In 2000, about 3.6 percent of the economically active population were unemployed and economic growth was identified at 2.2 percent. A political settlement of the Cyprus problem would likely greatly enhance the viability of the island and begin to bridge the disparity of economic opportunity between the two major communities. In 2000, estimated per-capita GDP was $16,000 in the Greek Cypriot community and $5,300 in the Turkish Cypriot community. Clothing, citrus fruit, potatoes, vegetables, footwear, and vine products make up the bulk of exports. Main imports include food and feed grains, transport and industrial machinery, electronic equipment, and petroleum products. “Invisible” foreign exchange earnings, especially from tourism, remain strong and the Cyprus pound has been relatively stable. Although economic problems are by no means completely solved, economic prosperity is evident in all sectors of the Greek Cypriot economy. In 1988, Cyprus began a 15-year transition to a Customs Union with the European Union (EU).

Transportation Local Bus and taxi service are the only forms of local public transportation. Buses service is not developed in many localities and can be inconvenient and crowded. In the major towns of Cyprus, excellent taxi service is always available at moderate prices. Scheduled taxi transportation between cities, on a shared-occupancy basis, is offered at a reasonable fixed charge per passenger. Automobiles, with or without chauffeurs, can be rented reasonably by the day, week, or month.

Regional Cyprus Airways, Olympic Airways, British Airways and many other national airlines operate flights in and out of Larnaca International Airport to Athens, Tel. Aviv, Cairo, Frankfurt, and London, as well as to most other major European cities. Ships carrying cargo and passengers to Cyprus call at Larnaca and Limassol. Auto ferries are available between Piraeus (Athens port) and Limassol.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone service is very reliable. Dial calls can be made to all the cities and villages. Cyprus has telephone, telegraph, and telex communications with all parts of the globe, as well as telephone and telegraph service with ships at sea. The International Subscriber Dialing (ISD) system was installed in 1976 and services the United States, Greece, and 104 other countries. Telephone calls to Europe, the United States, and other countries served are clear and uninterrupted. A satellite station has been installed in the south and is operational. The Turkish Cypriot telephone system is entirely separate from the CYTA (Cyprus Telecommunications Authority) network. Telephone calls to the north can only be made to a very few stations still linked to CYTA lines. 99

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Radio and TV reception is good. BBC broadcasts daily in the regular medium wave (AM) band. A shortwave radio is recommended for picking up other for eign and VOA broadcasts. The British Forces Broadcasting Service offers news, popular music, and some BBC programs. Cyprus Radio broadcasts in Greek, Turkish, and English. It offers news in English and some BBC programs from London. Television service covers the entire island, and transmissions are in color. News and current events programs are broadcast in Greek, Turkish, and English. The news in English is limited to a 5 minute telecast once every evening. Many TV features are U.S. or British movies or series with Greek subtitles.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Nicosia’s one English-language daily (except Monday) is the 12-15 page Cyprus Mail. The International Herald Tribune reaches Nicosia readers a day after publication. Subscriptions to the European edition of the Stars and Stripes are also available. Many local bookshops carry foreign periodicals, technical journals, and novels in English. The Cyprus Weekly newspaper appears every Friday in English. There is also a weekly English-language newspaper published in the Turkish Cypriot community, Cyprus Today.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Nicosia has specialists in obstetrics; surgery; ear, nose and throat; urology; orthopedics; and internal medicine. Nicosia has a number of small, private clinics in which Americans have been hospitalized or delivered babies. Cases requiring unusual diagnostic facilities may be evacuated to London or the United States. Medicine and laboratory services can usually be obtained locally. If you require special medication, however, bring a supply. 100

Optical care is generally quite good in Cyprus. Most lens prescriptions can be filled here. If your prescription is unusually complicated, bring spare glasses. Both hard and soft contact lenses are available at lower than U.S. prices.

known cases of Americans having been infected while in Cyprus.

Several good dentists, trained in Europe and America, practice in Nicosia. They use modern equipment and are highly recommended by Americans who have been treated by them. Fees are reasonable.

Several local dairies pasteurize milk, making it safe to drink without further treatment.

Community Health Community and public sanitation standards, although lower than in the United States, are much higher than in many countries in the area. They may be compared favorably to those in most countries of southern Europe. Sanitary inspection laws are not always stringently enforced, however. Except at the top restaurants and markets, standards of sanitation can be suspect. Window screening is generally uncommon. Flies and mosquitoes are common pests and can sometimes interfere with outdoor activities. Garbage is collected twice weekly. Local health authorities consider the island one of the more healthful areas of the world because of the infrequency of serious diseases. Although the ordinary diseases usually found in most countries bordering the Mediterranean do occur here, Cyprus has no unusual health problems. Some cases of typhoid are reported occasionally. The Cyprus Government conducts energetic campaigns to encourage immunization of young persons. Pollen and dust during the hot, dry summers can be a source of discomfort to those suffering from hay fever, asthma, allergy to dust or pollen, or from any chronic condition of the upper respiratory system. Rabies is nonexistent on the island. However, hydatid disease or echinococcosis, attributed to a tapeworm harbored by dogs, occurs among local inhabitants. There are no

Preventive Measures Children should have the DPT and m e a s l e s, m u m p s, a n d r u b e l l a (MMR) inoculations.

Nicosia’s water is treated and considered potable, but is sometimes rationed. Most homes have storage tanks on the roofs, which are a potential source of airborne disease contamination. For this reason, most kitchen sinks have a third water tap connected directly to the city main. This water tap should be used for all drinking, ice making, and vegetable rinsing. Bottled mountain spring water is available in supermarkets at reasonable prices, or large quantities can be delivered to one’s home. Fresh fruits and vegetables should be washed thoroughly, especially when they are eaten raw.

NOTES FOR TRAVELLERS The Cyprus Government carefully controls the exportation of antiquities. Before such items can be removed from the island, an export authorization must be obtained from the office of the Department of Antiquities at the Cyprus Museum. No U.S. citizen needs a visa to enter Cyprus. Regulations concerning the entry of dogs and cats include, as a general rule, a 6-month quarantine period. Exceptions to this requirement in the form of early release to home quarantine, are possible, but expensive. Dogs should be inoculated against rabies prior to arrival on Cyprus. The unit of currency on the island is the Cyprus pound which is divided into 100 cents. Currency notes are

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Cities of the World issued in denominations of Cyp. Pds. 20, 10, 5, and 1. Coins are minted in the value of Cyp. Pds. .50, .20, .10, .05, .02, and .01. Adequate British and Cypriot banks are on the island. The Cyprus Pound trades at around $1.60 (January 2001) and is well backed by foreign exchange. In the north, although the Cyprus Pound and U.S. dollar are accepted in most places, the Turkish lira (TL) has been the de-facto medium of exchange since 1975. Commercial banking is well developed. The metric system is now in common use in Cyprus, though more traditional forms of measurement are still encountered.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Turkish Cypriot Community Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ramazan Bayram* Apr. 23 . . . . . . . . . Opening of the Grand National Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kurban Bairam* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 19 . . . . . . . . . Turkish Youth Day July 20 . . . . . . . . . Peace and Freedom Day July 31 . . . . . . . . . Birthday of the Prophet Aug. 30 . . . . . . . . . Victory Day Oct. 29 . . . . . . . . . Turkish Republic Day Nov. 15 . . . . . . . . . Republic Day of Northern Cyprus

Greek Community Holidays Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year''s Day Jan 6 . . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Green Monday* (Beginning of Greek Orthodox Lent) Mar. 25 . . . . . . . . . Greek Independence Day Apr.1 . . . . . . . . . . . Eoka Day Apr/May . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Holy Saturday* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1. . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day June/July. . . . . . . . Holy Spirit Day* Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Oct. 1 . . . . . . . . . . . Cyprus Independence Day Oct. 28 . . . . . . . . . . Ohi Day Dec. 24. . . . . . . . . . Christmas Eve Dec. 25. . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26. . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day

RECOMMENDED READING Alastos, D., Cyprus in History, a Survey of 5000 Years. Arnold, Percy, Cyprus Challenge, London, 1956. Attalides, Michael, Cyprus, Nationalism and International Politics. Balfour, Patrick, The Orphaned Realm, London, 1951. Ball, George, Chapter on Cyprus from George Ball’s Memoirs. Berlitz Travel Guide: Cyprus. New York: Macmillan, latest edition.. Borowiec, Andrew, The Mediterranean Feud, New York, 1983. Clerides, Glafkos, My Deposition, London, 1988.

Crawshaw, Nancy, The Cyprus Revolt. Denktash, Rauf, Cyprus Triangle, London, 1982. Durrell, Lawrence, Bitter Lemons, New York, 1957. Foley, Charles, Island in Revolt, Legacy of Strike. Foley, Charles, The Memoirs of Cyprus (four volumes) . Hart, Parker T. Two NATO Allies at the Threshold of War: Cyprus, a Firsthand Account of Crisis Management, 1965-1968. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1990. Kyriakides, Stanley, Cyprus: Constitutionalism and Crisis in Government. Luke, Sir Harry, Cyprus: A Portrait and Appreciation. Necatigil, Zaim M. The Cyprus Question and the Turkish Position in International Law. New York: Oxford University Press, 1989. Polyviou, P., Cyprus: Conflict and Negotiation, 1960-1980. Polyviou, P., Cyprus in Search of a Constitution. Polyviou, P., Cyprus, The Tragedy and the Challenge. Reddaway, John, Burdened with Cyprus. Salem, Norma, ed. Cyprus: A Regional Conflict and Its Resolution. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1992. T h u b r o n , C o l i n . Jo u r n e y i n t o C y p r u s. N e w Yo r k : A t l a n t i c Monthly, 1990. Wilson, Rodney. Cyprus and the International Economy. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1992.

101

CZECH REPUBLIC

Major Cities: Prague, Brno, Ostrava, Plzeð, Olomouc Minor Cities: Èeské Budêjovice, Frýdek-Místek, Hradec Kráové, Liberec, Pardubice, Ústí Nad Labem, Zlín

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for the Czech Republic. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The Czech Republic has a rich treasure in its own history, with much of it still visible in the bridges, palaces, and streets of Prague. The legacies of Charles IV, the Holy Roman Emperor; of Jan Hus, the religious reformer; of Comenius, the educator; of King George of Podebrady, the one Czech Hussite king; of Hasek and Capek and other writers; of the composers Dvorak and Smetana; of Tomas Masaryk, the philosopher and statesman, are still alive in Prague. Few world capitals have preserved their past so visibly, and few are so picturesque. Politically, the Czechs have endured centuries of storms and trials. The Czech Republic's people, property,

and institutions were decimated by the Thirty Years' War; were dominated by the Hapsburg Austrian Empire for 300 years; experienced a brief but brilliant period of democracy and independence from 1918 to 1938; were occupied by Hitler after the signing of the Munich Pact; had an even briefer period of independence after World War II; came under Communist control in 1948; were invaded by the Warsaw Pact in 1968 after a brief burst of freedom during the “Prague Spring”; threw off communist leadership in 1989 and elected Alexander Dubcek and Vaclav Havel to top governmental posts in the country; and welcomed 1993 by officially splitting their country into two independent states, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. The political, social, and economic situations here are dynamic as the country completes the dismantlement of old structures and joins the NATO alliance and prepares for EU membership, thereby consolidating the transition to a free market democracy along Western lines. From 1918 to 1938, the U.S. was intimately involved with Czechoslovak affairs. The millions of Americans of Czech and Slovak ancestry created a special bond, and former President Woodrow Wilson played a vital role in the creation of the

Czechoslovak state. Czechoslovak i a ' s f i r s t p r e s i d e n t , To m a s Masaryk, married an American and was a great friend of the U.S. During the Cold War, the U.S. provided political and moral support for the Charter 77 dissidents. Today, the U.S. is an active partner of the young democracy that has been reborn in this ancient land.

MAJOR CITIES Prague Prague is an old city; a medley of Gothic, Renaissance, baroque, and art deco architecture gives the city its particular charm and makes it one of Europe's most beautiful cities. The green of Prague's numerous parks and hills sets off its many historic buildings, making it particularly attractive in late spring, summer, and early autumn. Prague has a population of about 1.2 million. German and English are the most widely understood foreign languages. Within the Western foreign and diplomatic communities, English, French, and German are spoken in addition to Czech. Americans are currently popular among Czechs, and the opinion that Czechs have of our culture is high. 103

Czech Republic English is rapidly becoming the most-learned language.

History The history of Prague began in the ninth century around the castles situated atop the Hradèany and Vysehrad hills, on the left and right banks of the Vltava, that still dominate the city’s skyline. A major trade center a century later, Prague achieved real prominence when King Wenceslaus I of Bohemia founded a German settlement here in 1232. As the capital of Bohemia, Prague grew in size and prosperity and became one of the most splendid cities of Europe under Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century. For the next 300 years, Prague was the residence of the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire; in the late 16th and 17th centuries, it was an important center for science, and the home of astronomers Tycho Brahe (1546–1601) and Johannes Kepler (1571–1630). In the mid-18th century, the city was occupied by the French and Prussians and, although Prague had lost much of its importance, it remained a major cultural center. The buildings constructed at that time gave the city a distinct baroque and rococo character. Prague was the center of Czech revival in the 19th century, and played an important role in the 1848 revolution until it was bombarded and captured by Austria. In 1918, Prague was named the capital of the newly created Czechoslovak Republic. During World War II, the city was occupied by Germans, but was liberated by Soviet troops in May 1945. The cultural aspects of the city developed extensively between the two World Wars. The center of Prague, the city’s old section, is an architectural treasure characterized by the beauty of its location on the rolling banks of the Vltava. Hradèany Castle, on the river’s left bank, dominates the city. A grand structure with many wings, the castle was the former royal residence and the seat of the Czech presi104

Cities of the World dents. The Gothic Cathedral of St. Vitus, next to the castle, was begun in the 10th century and finally completed in 1929; it contains the tombs of many kings and emperors. There are numerous other churches and palaces in the Hradèany quarter of the city. The best-preserved part of Old Prague is Mala Strana (lesser town), situated on the slope extending from Hradèany Castle to the river. Mala Strana is connected with Staré Mêsto (Old Town), on the right bank of the Vltava, by the 14th-century Charles Bridge, the most beautiful of Prague’s water spans. Staré Mêsto contains the Stavovske Theater; the Clementinum Library; the Carolinum, dating to 1348 and the oldest part of Prague University; and other historic structures. Adjacent to Staré Mêsto is the Old Synagogue, built in the 13th century, and once part of the city’s Jewish ghetto. In all, Prague has 77 palaces, about 150 ancient town houses, seven summer palaces, 20 mansion homes, over 100 churches, and more than 33 former monasteries. A number of interesting towns surround Prague. Kutná Hora is known for its architectural beauty, including the Italian Court and several buildings which are examples of medieval stone mansions. There are a castle and a spa at Podêbrady. Mladá Boleslav is the center of Czech’s automobile industry, but the town also boasts a castle in its old Renaissance section. Mêlnik, situated at the confluence of the Vltana and Elbe Rivers, is known for its vineyards and wine harvests, as well as a baroque-adapted mansion which features a picture gallery. The town of Kladno, known for the production of iron and steel, had modernized and expanded so that it nearly reaches the village of Lidice, which was destroyed by the Nazis in 1942 and is now a memorial. Pôíbram, a mining town, has an outdoor mining museum and baroque buildings which are part of its famous pilgrimage.

Several towns surrounding Prague are known for their mansions. Near the town of Benešov is the impressive mansion Konopištê; there is also a baroque mansion at Veltrusy that is situated in a park; a Renaissance mansion at Nelahozeves which houses a collection of modern Czech art; and a mansion at Üleby that exhibits arts and crafts. Other towns surrounding Prague have interesting examples of homes typical of certain eras or geographic locations. The stone cottages at Trêbíz near Slanû have baroque influence; typical central Bohemian wooden cottages are found in Pôerov; farm buildings in Kouôim are characteristic of the Kolín district; and the wooden mill at Bláhová Lhota, preserved in its original surroundings, is now a museum. The landscape of the area surrounding Prague has inspired many composers, and the towns of Jabkenice, Vysoká, Krêcovice, and Všeboôice all have landmarks to this effect. Numerous battlefields also dot the area. There is a memorial at Milín which marks the place where the final shots of World War II in Europe were fired on May 11, 1945.

Utilities Electric current is 220v, 50-cycle, AC. Voltage stabilizers are useful but not usually required for delicate electronic equipment. Surge protectors for computers and TVs/ VCRs are recommended and can be purchased locally. Cycles may vary slightly.

Food Basic foods are regularly available in Prague. Fresh fruits and vegetables have been a problem at times, but large supermarkets offer a wide assortment of groceries, vegetables, and fruits, both local and imported. Local food stores are beginning to have a wider assortment and a more reliable supply of groceries. But don't expect to find all fruits and vegetables all the time. Items will be available for a while, then disappear, only to reappear later. The quality of both meat and vegetables may vary; milk may spoil quickly

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Courtesy of Mira Bossowska

Three bridges in Prague

because it is not refrigerated during distribution.

supplies are available, either from the duty-free shops, or local stores.

Clothing

Good, reasonably priced tailors and dressmakers are available in Prague. Local dry cleaning, laundry, and shoe repair services are adequate. Beauty and barbershops provide adequate service, although some women prefer to supply their own hair care products.

Though acceptable clothing can be found, and both quality and selection are getting better, you may still wish to purchase or order outside of the Czech Republic. Prices of products on the German economy are higher than in the U.S. No unusual clothing is required for Prague. A fall and winter wardrobe s u i t a b l e f o r d a m p N e w Yo r k weather should be satisfactory. Bring many pairs of low-heeled, perhaps crepe-soled, shoes or boots for Prague's cobblestone pavements. Overshoes, galoshes or boots, raincoats, and umbrellas are needed. Because of the soft coal used for heating in the Czech Republic, light-colored clothing requires frequent cleaning in the winter.

Supplies and Services Basic toiletries, cosmetics, tobacco products, medicines, and household

Repair facilities for many makes of newer automobiles, audio and video equipment, and household appliances are available. However, parts may be unavailable. Repairs can take a long time, and the quality of the work varies.

set by Czech regulations and are still not high by U.S. standards. In addition to wages, the employer must provide meals (or a fixed payment in lieu of them) during working hours, and must pay a 36percent Social Security tax to cover Social Security, medical care, and sick pay. Live-in help is unusual for Prague. Employees get two to four weeks of annual leave per year, which they usually prefer to take during summer. Cash can be paid instead of vacation, by agreement. A month's probation follows hiring, and an employer or employee must give two months' notice before termination.

Religious Activities Domestic Help Household help is particularly useful for local shopping or various errands if you know there will be a language barrier. Qualified personnel are available, but it can sometimes be difficult to find someone who has satisfactory English skills. Minimum wages are

Prague now has services in English for those of the Anglican, Baptist, Interdenominational Christian, Lutheran, Roman Catholic, and Jewish faiths. There are also several discussion groups in English for various religions. A listing of times and places for services can be found in the English-language weekly, the Prague Post. Czech-lan105

Czech Republic guage Protestant services are held in local churches. Roman Catholic Mass is said regularly in Czech in local churches, including St. Vitus Cathedral in the Prague Castle, and traditional Czech Masses are sung for religious holidays. Jewish services are held in the Old-New Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, the Jerusalem Synagogue, and Bejt Simcha.

Education The International School of Prague (ISP), founded in 1948, was for many years located in the U.S. Embassy. Now it is housed on a beautiful new campus in Prague 6 (an administrative district in the northwestern part of the city), The school is governed by a ninemember board, most of which is elected by parents, but with an Embassy representative as well. The school is fully accredited by the Middle States Association in the U.S. and the European Council of International Schools. The school employs an American director, and most of the teachers are recruited from the U.S. The enrollment has grown rapidly in the last few years and now has about 600 students representing more than 60 nationalities. Grade levels offered are preschool through grade 12 with the U.S. and the International Baccalaureate diplomas offered. Children must be 4 by September 1 to be enrolled in preschool. The school follows a U.S.-based curriculum, enriched by international perspective and content. Re-entry into U.S. schools is generally not a problem. Facilities include a large library, two computer labs, four science labs, two gymnasiums, and a theater as well as outdoor playgrounds, sports fields, and basketball and tennis courts. No boarding facilities are available. The school has a full extracurricular activity program, which includes intramural and interscholastic sports (soccer, volleyball, basketball, softball, and swimming), drama productions, student newspapers, student government, literary magazines, band, and choir. Transport to and from 106

Cities of the World school is a parental responsibility via private car, taxi, or public transportation. The school year is divided into trimesters and runs from late August to the second week of June, with a one-week vacation in October, a two- to three-week Christmas/ New Year's break, a one-week winter break in February, and a week off at Easter. An elementary school, including nursery and kindergarten, is run by the French Cultural Center in Prague. The demand for enrollment in the nursery and kindergarten often exceeds available space. Instruction is in French and follows a standard French curriculum. There is at least one Montesorri preschool. Other options for younger children include a number of privately run English language schools, some recently opened. These schools take children as young as 18 months old until 6 or 9 years of age; others enroll children at 3 or 4 years of age until they are 18.

Special Educational Opportunities Adults may attend Charles University in Prague. Private instruction in art and music can be arranged.

Sports Golf courses are available. There is an excellent golf facility near Karlstejn, a beautiful palace, about 30 minutes from Prague. Outside of Prague, there are first-class 18-hole courses at Marianske Lazne and Karlovy Vary, though they are two hours away. There is a nine-hole course at Podebrady, and, in town, the Motol course, located on a side of a hill, is small, but challenging. Skiing and ice skating are popular winter sports. The nearest ski slopes can be reached in a day's outing. Small hotels can accommodate overnight trips, but reservations must be made well in advance. Skis, boots, clothing, and other equipment can be obtained both locally and from outside sources.

Used equipment is available in local markets that sell previously owned equipment. Indoor ice skating rinks are open to the public in Prague. Weather permitting, skaters use outdoor rinks and ponds, though indoor facilities are also available and inexpensive. Skating instruction is readily available and inexpensive. Through the auspices of a local skating club, an ice skating rink is made available to the foreigners for two hours on Sundays during winter months for a reasonable fee. Hunting and fishing have long traditions in the Czech Republic and can be excellent. Pheasants, ducks, red dear, wild boar, stag and other game is plentiful. Membership in hunting clubs, as well as individual hunts for big game, can be expensive, and those wishing to hunt must pass appropriate firearms tests. Fly fishing in the Czech Republic is very good, and licenses and permits can be arranged. Wellmarked hiking trails cover the countryside. Riding horses are available. Boating on both rivers and lakes, camping with tents or trailers, and outdoor bathing are popular. Particularly for those interested in architecture, photography can be rewarding. Cycling can be very enjoyable, once you learn how to av oid the cobblestone streets. Equipment for sports and outdoor activities is available locally. Children's sports are most easily pursued through intramural and interscholastic school programs. Some American children have participated in Czech youth sports prog r a m s, s u c h a s i c e h o c k e y, basketball, and baseball. The Czech programs tend to require almost year-round practice and can be very intense with little possibility of pursuing more than one sport in a year.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Prague is an architectural and historical gem-walking is a pleasure. Parks, both large and small, public gardens, and a zoo add to the variety of things to be admired.

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Square of Liberty in Brno, Czech Republic

Many sightseeing and picnic areas are in the immediate vicinity of Prague, and weekend excursions to castles and historic cities and sites are popular. Vienna, Berlin, Budapest, Munich, and Nuremberg are each within five to six hours by car. Other European centers can be easily reached by air.

Entertainment Prague provides a varied and entertaining musical diet. The Czech Philharmonic, one of Europe's outstanding musical organizations, performs twice a week, except in summer. During summer, the philharmonic has outdoor concerts. Light classical music is performed in Prague's public gardens. Both Western and Czechoslovak operas are performed, and some foreign operas Czech. In addition, numerous recitals and performances by the Prague Symphony, the country's second most famous orchestra, are given. The famous Prague Spring Music festival in

© Cordaiy Photo Library Ltd./Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

May boasts performers from around the world. Numerous theatrical presentations, classical and modern, are performed, usually in Czech. Puppet shows, pantomime, and operettas are performed, as are some worldrenowned theatrical performances unique to Prague, including the Black Light Theater and Magic Lantern. Prague also has several movie theaters showing U.S., British, French, and Italian films in the original language, with Czech subtitles or dubb i n g. T h e I t a l i a n a n d Fr e n c h cultural centers have regular film programs in Italian and French. Prague has many museums and a fine National Gallery of Art. Spectator events include horse racing, including the famous steeplec h a s e a t Pa r d u b i c e, t e n n i s, basketball, softball, soccer, and ice

hockey. Occasionally, American athletes participate in international competitions, and some exhibition teams visit Prague. Although it is not known for its fine cuisine, Prague has good restaurants, as do other large cities, such as Brno. Prices are considerably lower than in the U.S. and Western Europe. Although variety can be limited, new restaurants are opening seemingly every day. The variety of ethnic restaurants ranges from Indonesian to vegetarian to Thai to Chinese and Tex-Mex. In less expensive restaurants, food may be rich in fat and high in carbohydrates. Pubs also provide good food; local specialties include goulash with dumplings or potato pancakes and fried cheese or pork with rice. Several restaurants have picturesque interiors. Some provide dinner music. Western jazz and country music are popular. Good dance music can be 107

Czech Republic found in nightclubs. Czech beer is excellent and inexpensive. Native wine is fair, and the local sparkling wines are good, but both are reasonably priced.

Social Activities There are several American-owned restaurants and clubs in Prague that provide natural gathering places for Americans. There is an International Women's Group, begun in 1991, that now has more than 600 members. They have a coffee meeting the last Tuesday of every month and a newcomer's coffee the second Tuesday of every month, either in the morning or the evening to accommodate members' working schedules. Member-ship is Kc 1,000/year. A monthly newsletter is distributed to members. The club is advertised in the local English weekly, the Prague Post.

Brno Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic, is located in the eastern part of the country, about 120 miles southeast of Prague. Situated at the confluence of the Svratka and Svitava Rivers, it is Moravia’s chief city, with a population of 392,300. A thriving industrial center since the completion of the Brno-Vienna railway line in 1839, the city is known chiefly for its woolen industry and for the manufacture of textiles. Machinery, mostly tractors, machine tools, and armaments are also produced. The well-known Bren gun, later manufactured in England, was developed in Brno. Tourism is important to the economy. A large international engineering trade fair is held annually in September, and other exhibitions are sponsored in winter and spring. Brno has several institutions of higher education, including Masaryk University (founded in 1919), Beneš College of Science and Technology, the Janáèek Music Conservatory, and colleges of agricul108

Cities of the World ture and veterinary science. Research institutes are connected with these schools. Landmarks in the city include a 15th-century cathedral, several Gothic and baroque churches, and the old and new town halls. The Moravian Museum has an archaeological collection which is among the finest in Czech. The city also boasts an outstanding library, the Janáèek Theater, a large zoo, and an ice skating stadium. Near Brno is the town of Slivovice, known for its plum brandy. Historically, Brno was a Celtic settlement which grew up between two hills. It was part of the Bohemian kingdom until declared an imperial free city by King Wenceslaus I in 1243. Brno flourished in the 13th and 14th centuries, was besieged by the Swedes in 1645, and served as Napoleon I’s headquarters during the 1805 Battle of Austerlitz. The Spielberg Castle, captured by Hapsburg forces during the Thirty Years War, became their most notorious political prison from 1740 until 1855.

Ostrava Ostrava, located in the heart of the Czech Republic’s mining and industrial regions, is 175 miles east of Prague, near the Polish border. It is the capital of the North Moravian Region. Situated near the junction of the Oder and Opava Rivers, O s t r a v a ’s m a j o r p r o d u c t s a r e anthracite and bituminous coal, iron and steel, rolling stock, machinery, and ship and bridge parts. Ostrava is a regional administrative center, a road and rail hub, and the site of a large chemical industry and several hydroelectric stations. Ostrava, founded in 1267, was formerly called Moravská. It became prominent in the Middle Ages, mostly because of its strategic location at the entrance to the Moravian lowlands. The opening of the first coal mine and the coming of the railroad brought Ostrava industrial prominence early in the 19th cen-

tury. From 1939 until 1945, Ostrava was occupied by German forces, but soon after the war ended, rapid development began. Suburbs have built up around the city, and the population has grown to 332,000. Also a cultural and educational cente r, Ost r av a is t h e s i te of the renowned Academy of Mining Engineering, a university, and several other technical colleges. It also has a philharmonic orchestra, professional opera, and several theaters.

Plzeð Plz eð i s a n o t h e r o f t h e C z e c h Republic’s well-known industrial cities. Located in Bohemia near the German border, Plzeð is 60 miles west of Prague. It is situated near a region of coal fields in an area where sugar beets and hops are grown. Plzeð’s beer—Pilsner—has been brewed here for 700 years; it is internationally famous, and exported throughout the world. The city is also the site of the huge Skoda Works, which, under Communist rule, were nationalized and renamed the Lenin Works, and where heavy machinery, tools, automobiles, locomotives, and armaments are produced. Other industries include distilling, sugar refining, and papermaking, as well as pottery and cement production. Plzeð’s educational and cultural facilities include a medical school, a technical university, museums, and theaters. The 13th-century Gothic church of St. Bartholomew and a 16th-century Renaissance town hall are some of the historic landmarks found in the city. Plzeð was founded in 1290 and was an important trade center. The industrialization of the city dates back to the late 19th century with the establishment of the Skoda Wo r k s. P l z e ð b e l o n g e d t o t h e Austo-Hungarian monarchy until 1918, when it became part of the newly independent Czechoslovakia. Taken by German forces in 1939, it was Germany’s leading armament producer during World War II, and was consequently heavily bombed

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Courtesy of Melissa Doig

Royal Palace in Prague

by the Allies. Plzeð was liberated and returned to Czechoslovakia in 1945. Today, Plzeð’s population is close to 175,000.

Olomouc Olomouc, in the northeast section of the Czech Republic, 125 miles east of Prague, was the country’s second largest town until the 17th century. Although it is set in lush, green countryside, it is now an industrial city whose factories produce steel, machinery, electrical equipment, and food products—especially chocolate and candy. Olomouc is home to 105,000 residents.

The city has a university, founded in 1566, the Cyril-Methodius Theological faculty, and several libraries. Notable landmarks in Olomouc include the Cathedral of St. Wenceslaus, dating from 1109, when it was built as part of Pôemyslid Castle; a magnificent 600-year-old town hall; and two Gothic ecclesiastical structures, the Churches of St. Catherine and St. Maurice. The folklore and art of the region are displayed in an open-air museum in the nearby town of Roünov pod Radhoštêm. Olomouc was a strongly fortified ancient town and, from 1187 to 1641, the capital of Moravia. The city was the site of the Bohemian victory over the Mongols in 1242. It was held by the Swedes from 1642

until 1650. The Marquis de Lafayette was imprisoned in the fortress in Olomouc. Today, parks and gardens decorate the former site of the fortress. An annual flower show is the major attraction of the region.

OTHER CITIES ÈESKÉ BUDÊJOVICE is the place from which the first horse-drawn railway in continental Europe ran to Linz, Austria, beginning in 1827. The city lies on the Vltava River, 80 miles south of Prague, and is capital of South Bohemia and a large industrial center with a population of more than 92,000. 109

Czech Republic Èeské Budêjovice’s impressive town square, its Dominican monastery built in 1265, its 13th-century Cathedral of St. Nicholas, and numerous other old and magnificent buildings are of particular interest. The city, whose German name is Budweis, has been designated a historical town reserve by the Czech Government. Major enterprises in Èeské Budêjovice are a brewery (producing Pilsener beer for which Bohemia is famous), and factories making such diversified products as pencils, furniture, and processed foods. FRÝDEK-MÍSTEK, set in the midst of the deep forests of the eastern Czech Republic, south of Ostrava, is an industrial center with about 60,000 residents. The city’s baroque chateau exhibits collections of folk art in its museum, and also houses an institute of ethnography. Other points of interest include a small Renaissance church, and a town hall which was built in 1602. For many years, the famous Czech poet and “Bard of Silesia,” Petr Bezruè, made his home here. HRADEC KRÁOVÉ is a large and important city on the Elbe River 60 miles east of Prague. Founded in the 10th century, it is one of the oldest Bohemian towns, and many of its historical buildings erected in the Middle Ages have been preserved, including a cathedral, a town hall, and two large marketplaces. One of the bloodiest battles of the Austro-Prussian War was fought near Hradec Králové in 1866. The city underwent sweeping architectural modernization in the years between 1900 and 1930, and is now a thriving industrial center whose factories produce ship engines, chemicals, musical instruments, glass, and processed foods. The population is approximately 100,000. LIBEREC is situated in the north central section of the Czech Republic, on the Neisse River, 55 miles northeast of Prague. Founded in the late 13th century, destroyed by war in the 15th century, and reestablished in 1449, Liberec has a population of about 100,000. Its most 110

Cities of the World important industry—textiles—has steadily developed since 1579. PARDUBICE, the main cultural and administrative center of the Elbe valley, is noted both as an industrial city and historical reserve. Now home to a population of roughly 95,000, it was a large (for the times) settlement in the 13th century. After a devastating fire in 1507, many of the structures of Pardubice were rebuilt, but few of these survived the Thirty Years War and the siege of the Swedish armies during the first half of the 17th century. Some notable examples remain, including a 13th-century church, a Renaissance royal castle, and part of the town fortifications. On the outskirts of the city is a museum devoted to the national resistance movement. A museum of history and archaeology and the East Bohemian Gallery are located in the city, which is 60 miles east of Prague. ÚSTÍ NAD LABEM is a city of 90,000 on the Elbe River in the northwest Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic, 45 miles from Prague. It is a major tourist spot which annually draws thousands of visitors to its historical buildings, sports center, and nearby chalets and thermal springs. Overlooking the city is Stôekov Castle, said to have inspired Richard Wagner’s Tannhäuser. A Dominican monastery, built in 1731, is of major interest; it was erected on the site of an older church, dating from 1186, and part of which is now a concert and exhibition hall. Anton Raphael Mengs, the Bohemian painter, was born in Ústí nad Labem in 1728. A river port and industrial center that became part of Germany in the 1938 Munich Pact but reverted seven years later to Czechoslovakia, Ústí nad Labem today produces chemicals, iron and machines, and processes food. ZLÍN, in southern Moravia, is the center of the country’s shoe industry, founded here in 1913 by Tomáš Bat’a. A factory community grew in the area, eventually spreading Bata manufacturing plants (spelled without the apostrophe) throughout the

world. Nationalized after World War II, the company in the Czech Republic is now called Svit National Corporation; it maintains a museum dedicated to shoemaking over the past six centuries. The city, with a population of about 85,000, was originally called Zlín, was named Gottwaldov in 1949 in honor of Klement Gottwaldt, the country’s first Communist president, but was renamed Zlín after the “Velvet Revolution.” The International Festival of Children’s Films is held here.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Czech Republic lies in the heartland of Central Europe. It has fair to moderate summers, lush springs, and pleasant autumns. Winters can be wet, gray, and cold; Prague gets occasional but light snowfalls. The main geographic subdivisions are the Czech lands of Bohemia and Moravia. At an altitude of about 500 feet, Moravia lies east of Bohemia and rises from the north of the Danube Valley. The remainder of Moravia consists of valleys and forested mountains and is bordered on the east and south by Slovakia and on the north by Poland. Prague lies on the Vltava River (Moldau in German), which flows northward and joins the Labe (Elbe) north of Prague. Prague, with an altitude of 800 feet, lies at the center of the gently rolling Bohemian Plain, which is surrounded on three sides (the German and Polish frontiers) by mountains 5,000 feet high. These mountains protect the country from the extremes of western and northern European winters. Nevertheless, high humidity makes the winter cold penetrating. Prague's climate is temperate, with pleasant weather between May and August. Temperatures range from January's average daily high of

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Cities of the World 32°F (0°C) and low of 22° F (-4°C) to July's average daily high of 76°F (24.5°C) and low of 56ºF (14ºC). From November through March, the reduced hours of daylight (on cloudy days, for example, drivers feel compelled to turn their headlights on about 3:30 in the afternoon) combined with smog and raw weather create a gloomy atmosphere. Average annual rainfall is a b o u t 3 0 i n c h e s, d i s t r i b u t e d throughout the year. Humidity averages about 80 percent. Light to moderately heavy snow can be expected during January and February. Pollution can be severe during the winter months because of soft burning coal.

Population The Czech Republic's population of more than 10 million includes 8.3 million Czechs, 1.3 million Moravians, and approximately 300,000 Slovaks. Minorities include Poles, Germans, Silesians, Romany (Gypsies), and Hungarians. Before World War 11, about 3.5 million Germans lived in Czechoslovakia, but most were expelled in 1945. Of the prewar Czechoslovak population of 360,000 Jews, fewer than 10,000 remain. Czechs are predominately Roman Catholic, although much of the population considers itself agnostic. There is a large Protestant minority. A generation of Socialist rule has had no lasting effect on the traditional cultural ties of Czechs to Western Europe-France, Italy, Germany, and Austria. Czechs are proud of their earlier role in European cultural and political history. Many Americans (including Secretary of State Madeleine Albright) are of Czech descent, and the bond between the Czech lands and the U.S. remains strong.

Public Institutions The Czech Republic, the western two-thirds of the former Czech and Slovak Federal Republic, is a parlia-

mentary democracy. On January 1, 19 93, the Czechs and Slova ks divided their common state of more than 75 years. The Czech Parliament is bicameral, consisting of the Chamber of Deputies and the Senate. The Senate comprises 81 members elected to two-, four- and six-year terms. The 200-seat Chamber of Deputies includes delegates elected from seven districts and the capital for four-year terms, on the basis of proportional representation. The prime minister, who traditionally has represented the majority party of coalition, has considerable power. These powers include the right to set the agenda for most foreign and domestic policies, to mobilize a parliamentary majority, and to choose the governmental ministers. The president of the republic, as the formal head of state, is granted specific powers to nominate constitutional court judges, to dissolve parliament under certain conditions, and to enact a suspensive veto on legislation. The Czech political scene supports a broad spectrum of parties ranging from the semi-reformed Communist Party on the far left to the nationalist Republican Party on the extreme right. However, Czech governments since the fall of communism in 1989 have been coalitions of right-of-center and centrist parties, which have derived most of their popular support from the swift, free market reforms they have advocated.

Arts, Science, and Education A long tradition of devotion to the theatrical arts and the musical heritage of Mozart, Smetana, Dvorak, and Janacek is reflected in the Czech cultural scene. The leading theatrical institution, the National Theater, produces opera, ballet, and drama. Numerous theaters in Prague and the provincial cities are well-attended. The Czech Philharmonic Orchestra has a worldwide reputation, and many other excel-

lent musical organizations exist. The annual Prague Spring Festival is the cultural highlight of the year. Western popular musicians now include Prague in their tour schedules. Several theatrical groups have gained international recognition. Czechoslovak movies of the 1960s are world-renowned and many American movies play in Prague with Czech subtitles. P r a g u e ' s C h a r l e s U n i v e r s i t y, founded in 1348, is the oldest university in central Europe. Czech science, education, and technology, once compared with the best in the world, suffered from the heavy hand of political control under the Communists.

Commerce and Industry The Czech Republic has a welldiversified and highly industrial economy. Its reform process did not start until after the November 1989 Velvet Revolution somewhat later than in Poland and Hungary. The government has a strong focus on economic issues and has moved rapidly since 1990 to adopt free-market, Western-oriented business policies and practices. The Czech Republic's economic transformation started shortly after the 1989 Velvet Revolution with measures to privatize the economy through property restitution and the transfer of state-owned businesses to the private sector, the liberalization of foreign trade and foreign currency restrictions, and the lifting of price controls. It has now largely consolidated its economic transition to a Western market economy with about 75 percent of the enterprises now in private hands. State control, however, persists in energy, banking, and infrastructure firms. The country enjoys a smoothly functioning democracy with moderate levels of deficits, strong foreign currency reserves, single-digit inflation, and moderate, though rising, levels of unemployment. 111

Czech Republic Due to a lack of microeconomic restructuring coupled with recent austerity measures, the country is now undergoing needed economic retrenchment after high, but unsustainable, levels of growth in recent years. Following a period of economic contraction in the late 1990s, the Czech economy has recently shown signs of renewed growth. The country has since 1989 pursued balanced budgets, incurring small deficits in recent years. That policy orientation, however, looks set to change with the current recession and the new social democratic government's pledge to support a wide range of social welfare and investment programs. These programs were promised by the new government, which was elected by capitalizing on citizens' anxiety about their economic future. Wage levels average $200/month and are still only 10-20 percent of those in neighboring Germany and Austria. Productivity is also substantially lower because of chronic under-investment and the long absence of a competitive market environment. The state retains control of household energy prices, rents, and certain utilities. These prices will gradually increase to market levels at which point they will be liberalized entirely. While the Czech Republic retains many hallmarks of macroeconomic stability, unfinished elements in the transition have produced strains in trade balances, competitiveness, and company restructuring. A strong legal and insti tuti onal framework for a market economy is needed to consolidate the transition. Lack of strong ownership, a weakly regulated and opaque stock market, scant threat of bankruptcy, and relaxed credit policies have allowed firms to put off fundamental restructuring. The Czechs have continued work on reforms, such as the creation of a Czech securities commission, privatization of the three large state-controlled banks, and stricter rules on investment funds and bank lending, 112

Cities of the World to encourage restructuring and help realize the potential in the private sector. While there are still economic ties to the former East Bloc trading partners, such as oil and gas imports from Russia, trade with the former East Bloc has fallen off substantially since 1990. In recent years, the Czech Republic has successfully reoriented its economy to the West. Its main export market is now the European Union, and the majority of foreign investment comes from EU member states. As a member of the OECD, the Czech Republic remains open to foreign investment in virtually all sectors. The Czech Republic's economic stability has attracted an estimated $7 billion in foreign investment. The U.S. holds 13% About 500 U.S. companies are represented in Prague-of foreign investment, the third largest portion after Germany and the Netherlands, respectively. The Czech Republic has an open investment climate and particularly welc o m e s U. S. i n v e s t m e n t a s a counterbalance to the strong economic influence of Western Europe. Machinery and transport equipment comprise leading Czech exports. Enforcement of intellectual property protection, lack of transparency in capital market transactions, and the need for modern commercial laws and judicial system remain key concerns of businesses operating in the Czech Republic. The country is a member of the OECD, the Central Europe Free Trade Agreement, and has applied for membership in the European Union, membership in which is the country's leading foreign policy goal. Formal negotiations toward EU accession began in November 1998, but as yet, have not been accepted.

Transportation Automobiles Public transportation within Prague is excellent, but you will need a car to see the region easily. All vehicles must pass a technical inspection and emissions test before they can be registered. They need to have a factory-installed catalytic converter. Changes to Czech vehicle registration laws have made it much more difficult to register cars that do not meet EU specifications. It is possible to get a waiver for registration of a nonconforming vehicle (i.e., U.S. or other non-EU specification vehicle), but the process can be complicated. Individuals should bring with them as much technical information about their vehicles as possible, such as fuel consumption, top speed, load weight, etc. Third-party liability automobile insurance from the Czech Insurance Company is compulsory. Once the vehicle registration process officially starts, the local liability insurance, which is inexpensive, can be bought. Collision and theft insurance are also available locally. Compact or smaller cars are pref e r r e d b ec a u s e o f n a r r o w c i t y streets, fuel economy, and resale value. Any standard make car is suitable. Cobblestone streets and poor secondary roads are common and can be hard on a vehicle's suspension. Service facilities for most makes of European and Asian cars are adequate. In addition, there are at least three facilities in Prague that can service many U.S.-made, U.S.-model cars that are not sold in Europe. Several Western auto firms have sales and service outlets in Prague. Registration fees are nominal. Czech law requires that cars be equipped with catalytic converters, left and right outside rearview mirrors, mud flaps for rear tires, a rear fog light, a European first-aid kit

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Cities of the World and “triangle” emergency breakdown marker, a set of spare fuses and bulbs, one spare wheel screw, and one spare spark plug. Snow tires are recommended for winter driving and radials provide better traction in cities. Austrian and German authorities often require that vehicles entering their territory in winter have tire chains. Traffic moves on the right, and road signs and traffic conventions are similar to those used throughout Europe. The Czech Republic's main roads are adequate and in winter are salted or “sanded” (actually heavily covered with cinders), although not thoroughly plowed. Compared to the U.S. or Western Europe, traffic on the highways is light, although the traffic situation in Prague during working hours and throughout the Czech Republic continues to worsen as more vehicles take to the roads. Gas station facilities are excellent, with newly built, modern stations almost everywhere. Many stations are open 24 hours. Czech gasoline is sold in four grades: normal, 86 octane; special, 90 octane; 95 octane natural (lead-free); and super, 96 octane. Gasoline in the Czech Republic is about $2.50/gallon. A U.S. drivers license is valid in the Czech Republic, but an international license is required for some neighboring countries; it is recommended that all drivers obtain one before arrival. International licenses can be obtained locally, but only on the basis of a Czech license. Czech licenses can be obtained, though a brief test is required, even for holders of valid U.S. licenses. Without a valid U.S. license, a lengthy and expensive driver-training course and a thorough exam are required.

Local Subway, trams, and buses are used in the city and suburbs. Frequent service is available up to midnight, after which trams and buses continue on a reduced schedule. Night

trams-indicated at stops by a white number on a dark blue backgroundrun every 40 minutes. There are also five night buses that run out to some of the farther reaches of the city. The metro does not operate at all from midnight to 5 a.m. Public transportation is inexpensive, but prices are increasing. A single ticket costs about $0.40 and a monthly pass about $15. Yearlong passes are also available, but you must buy them in January. Taxis are usually found at stands in the central part of town and at the airport. In outlying sections, you must call for a taxi. Outside of the tourist season, service is reasonably prompt up to 10 or 11 p.m. Many expats, use one or two companies that are dependable and charge fair, reasonable rates. Caution is advised for the many self-employed drivers, which have the reputation of practicing price-gouging.

Regional The Czech Republic is served by a comprehensive network of bus, rail, and air transport; however, reservations are difficult to get during the holidays, music festivals, and trade fairs. Train service is good, and there are several modern international express train services. Rail transport within the Czech Republic and to other nearby European countries is inexpensive, though prices continue to increase. Daily flights operate between Prague and other major European capitals.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Local and long-distance telephone, telegraph, fax, and telex services are available at reasonable cost within the Czech Republic. However, service outside the country, and particularly outside Europe, is much more expensive. USA Direct or similar American credit card services can substantially reduce the cost of personal calls to the United States. Callback services, which are another option for moderate long-

distance calls, can also be used. Although improving, the quality of local telephone service is still erratic by U.S. standards, and line quality is often poor. This is particularly troublesome to those using modems and personal computers at home for Internet access. There are several Internet Service Providers (ISPs) in Prague of varying quality, reliability, and cost. Prices differ by almost an order of magnitude, so comparison-shopping is recommended for new arrivals wishing the service. Some international ISPs, Compuserve, and ibm.net, for example, also have points of presence in Prague.

Radio and TV There are many AM and FM radio stations, including the BBC (101.1 FM). Czech FM stations have play lists similar to many American pop and country stations. Occasionally, t her e ar e s pec i al pr ograms in English. Some or parts of advertisements are even in English. Shortwave radios can pick up BBC day a n d n i g h t , VO A m o r n i n g a n d evening, and other European stations in English and other languages. VOA may also be heard in English at various times in the day on 1197 AM. There are four TV channels, with most broadcasts in Czech. One channel carries a mixture of foreign broadcasting. Broadcasts are sometimes dubbed or subtitled, but often are in English, German, French, Russian, and Spanish. American (NTSC) TVs can be converted to the PAL system used in the Czech Republic, but with difficulty. Multisystem TVs capable of processing both local PAL broadcasts and the NTSC system used by American VCRs are available in Germany or they can be mail-ordered. Viewing is invaluable for studying the Czech language. Some employees have installed satellite dishes that enable them to receive English-language news programs and other broadcasts-also using the PAL system from one or more European satellites. Dishes are available locally and in Germany. 113

Czech Republic VCRs are also popular. There is also at least one video rental business, with thousands of English-language tapes, that caters to the large American and British expatriate community.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals International editions of news magazines, such as Time, Newsweek, and The Economist, are available at local newsstands, as are a wide variety of other popular magazines. Another good source of local information is the Prague Post, an English-language weekly, that provides news of the Czech Republic and surrounding countries as well as lists of restaurants and cultural events.

Health and Medicine Medical services are provided to resident foreigners in Prague at the foreigner section of Na Homolce Hospital, staffed by English-speaking general practitioners, pediatricians, and dentists. A doctor is on call at all times. The foreigner section refers patients to specialists for laboratory tests and hospitalization, as necessary. Privatization of health care facilities is gradually taking place in Prague in some specialties, such as OB/GYN, dentistry, and ophthalmology. Routine and emergency care in Prague is adequate, but local differences in the organization of medical care, a limited choice of physicians, cultural differences, and the language barrier can create problems.

Community Health Community sanitation in the Czech Republic is high. Public health controls help to prevent outbreaks of serious diseases. Milk products are pasteurized and generally safe as long as they are stored properly. The water in Prague is not fluoridated, and supplements, available from the health unit, should be given to children up to the age of 13. Generally, the water in Prague is 114

Cities of the World safe to drink and meets acceptable s t a n d a r d s a c c o r d i n g t o Wo r l d Health Organization guidelines for adults and children over one year of age. The nitrate level in the water is potentially hazardous to small infants (under one year of age). Bottled or distilled water is recommended for this age group.

Preventive Measures The most prevalent local diseases are hepatitis, measles, whooping cough, and respiratory diseases, such as bronchitis and pneumonia. Upper respiratory ailments are common during the winter months. Prague's damp and sooty winter often brings on or aggravates bronchitis, viral influenza, head and chest colds, asthma, sinus trouble, and other respiratory difficulties. Coughs, hoarseness, and bronchial irritations seem to last longer, and people with a history of asthma may experience flare-ups, probably due to chronic irritation from the pollution. Vitamin supplements are recommended during the winter months when local markets have fewer fresh fruits and vegetables. Ticks in the Czech Republic can transmit a viral infection known as tick-borne encephalitis.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May. 1 . . . . . . . . . .Czech Labor Day May 8 . . . . . . . . . . .Liberation Day July 5 . . . . . . . . . . .Sts. Cyril and Methodius Day Jul. 6 . . . . . . . . . . .Jan Hus Day Sep.28 . . . . . . . . . .Statehood Day Oct. 28 . . . . . . . . . .Czech Founding Day Nov.17 . . . . . . . . . .Struggle for Freedom Day Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .St. Stephen’s Day *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties No immunizations are required, unless the traveler comes from areas where yellow fever or cholera is endemic. A valid passport is required, but a visa is not necessary for U.S. citizens for tourism, short study or business visits up to 90 days. Visas are required for longer stays and for any gainful activity; application can be made at any Czech embassy or consulate (outside the Czech Republic). For further information concerning entry requirements for the Czech Republic, travelers can contact the Embassy of the Czech Republic at 3900 Spring of Freedom Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone (202)274-9103 or visit the Embassy's web site at http://www.mzv.cz/washington Americans living in or visiting the Czech Republic are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in the Czech Republic and obtain updated informatio n on travel and security within the Czech Republic. Information is also available on the Embassy's web site at http:// w w w. u s e m b a s s y. c z . T h e U. S. Embassy in Prague is located at Trziste 15; tel. (420) (2) 5753-0663; for after hours emergencies only tel. (420) (2) 5753-2716.

Pets Pets may be taken into and out of the Czech Republic without major problems. Dogs must be licensed, on a leash, and if large or unreliable, muzzled when in public. When taking a pet into or out of the Czech Republic, a recent veterinary certificate (not more than three days old) attesting to the animal's health is required, as well as an international certificate with proof of current vaccinations. Rabies and distemper immunizations are necessary, and it is recommended that immunization against the local parvovirus be

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Cities of the World given to dogs and cats soon after arrival.

Firearms and Ammunition The Czech government revised the firearms laws in 1997 to come into line with EU norms. Importation of firearms (both shoulder arms and hand guns) is permitted. Individuals wishing to bring firearms into the Czech Republic must obtain written permission from a Czech Embassy or Consulate before shipping the weapons. All firearms brought into the Czech Republic must be re-exported. All firearms imported to the Czech Republic must be registered with the police presidium. Shipping and customs can help with the registration process. All individuals wishing to use firearms for any purpose must pass an examination. The test has both a written section and a practicum, which is held at a shooting range. The test is administered in Czech, but individuals are permitted to employ a certified translator. There are fees for both the test and the translation services.

Currency, Banking & Weights and Measures The official unit of currency of the Czech Republic is the crown (kruna), abbreviated “Kc,” which is divided into 100 hellers. Exchange rates vary but have been about US$1=35.24Kc (December 1999). U.S. and foreign currencies may be obtained from the local banks or exchange dealers for a commission. ATMs are readily available throughout Prague, and many

American residents obtain Czech crowns through these machines, which take CIRRUS, PLUS, MOST and leading credit cards. However, there is usually a charge for these transactions. The metric system of weights and measures is used.

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Bauer, Maria. Under the Chestnut Trees. Overlook: New York, 1984. Bugajski, Janusz. Czechoslovakia: Charter 77's Decade of Dissent. Praeger: New York, 1987. Demetz, Peter. Prague in Black and Gold. Hill and Wang: New York, 1997. Golan, Galia. The Czechoslovak Reform Movement: Communism in Crisis 1962-1968. Cambridge University Press: Cambridge, 1971. Hasek, Jaroslav, trans. Cecil Parrott. The Good Soldier. Svejk London, 1973. Herman, A.H. A History of the Czechs. Allan Lane Press: 1975. Kerman, George F. From Prague After Munich: Diplomatic Papers, 1938-1940. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1968. Korbel, Josef. Communist Subversion of Czechoslovakia. Princeton

University Press: Princeton, 1959. Leff, Carol Skalnik. National Conflict in Czechoslovakia: The Making and Remaking of a State, 1918-1987. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1988. Levy, Alan. So Many Heroes. Second Chance Press: Sagaponack, N.Y., 1980. Little, Robert, ed. The Czech Black Book. Avon Books: New York, 1969. Masaryk, Thomas G. The Making of a State. Fertig: New York, 1970. Mlynar, Zdenek. Nightfrost in Prague, Karz: New York, 1980. Seton-Watson, Hugh. The East European Revolution. Praeger: New York, 1956. Skilling, H. Gordon. Charter 77 and Human Rights in Czechoslovakia. George Allen & Unwin: London, 1981. Skilling, H. Gordon. Czechoslovakia's Interrupted Revolution. Princeton University Press: Princeton, N.J., 1976. Sterlin g, Claire. The Masaryk Affair. Harper & Row: New York, 1969. Taborsky, Edward. Communism in Czechoslovakia, 1948-1960. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1961. Szulc, Tad. Czechoslovakia Since World War II. Viking Press: New York, 1971. Wechsberg, Joseph. Prague, the Mystical City. Macmillan: New York, 1971.

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Copenhagen, Denmark

DENMARK Kingdom of Denmark

Major Cities: Copenhagen, Århus, Odense Other Cities: Ålborg, Esbjerg, Fredericia, Gentofte, Helsingør, Horsens, Kolding, Naestved, Randers, Ribe, Roskilde, Vejle

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated December 1992. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION DENMARK is the oldest kingdom in Europe, tracing its written history as far back as the Viking period of the eighth and ninth centuries. A country of gentle beauty, friendly people, and cosmopolitan life-style, modern Denmark is an industrialized nation with a high standard of living and one of the world’s most advanced social welfare societies. The homogeneity of culture, breadth of economic activity, and variety of political opinion make it a stimulating place to visit. A nation of rich cultural and intellectual heritage, Denmark continues to contribute to achievements of the modern world. Writers, scientists, philosophers, musicians, art-

ists—all with international recognition—are indicative of the range of accomplishments that have been reached in this fairy-tale kingdom so honored by its most-beloved son, Hans Christian Andersen.

MAJOR CITIES Copenhagen Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, lies on the eastern coast of the island of Zealand on the straits connecting the Baltic Sea to the North Sea. Between Zealand and mainland Denmark lie the island of Fyn and two channels—the Great Belt and the Little Belt. Copenhagen’s strategic location on a main trade route between the Baltic and northern countries has made it one of the great transit ports of northern Europe. With over 1 million people, Copenhagen is Denmark’s largest city. Starting as a small fishing village more than 1,000 years ago, the city has grown into a major European commercial and cultural center. Its name (Kobenhavn or Merchant’s Harbor) reflects its historical association with shipping and international trade. Copenhagen’s busy harbor and shipyards confirm the

significant role these activities continue to play in the city’s economic life. Despite the modern pace of its commercial activity, Copenhagen maintains its Old World charm. The skyline is dominated by stately towers, their copper roofs green with age; thus its popular name, “city of beautiful towers.” Many buildings in the city’s center date back hundreds of years, some as far back as the 16th and 17th centuries. The old houses that line the canals and cobblestone streets provide a sharp contrast to modern, high-rise apartment complexes that dominate the fast-growing suburbs and newer parts of the city. The high standard of living of its citizens is reflected in the clean, wellmaintained appearance of the city. Despite its size, many wooded parks and small lakes give Copenhagen an almost provincial quality. Copenhagen is a favorite of tourists, and thousands of Americans visit the city each year.

Food Most types of food are available on the local market year round.

Clothing Woolen clothing is worn most of the year. Even in summer, a light wrap 117

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or sweater is usually needed after sundown. Rainwear is a necessity. Ready-made clothing for men, women, and children is available at prices often higher than those in the U.S. Shoes for men, women, and children are imported from all over Europe, but narrow widths are not readily available.

Supplies and Services Supplies: All major brands of toilet articles and cosmetics are available, but taxes on cosmetics are high. Few American patent medicines are available in Danish drugstores, since most medicines are sold only by prescription.

Basic Services: Tailors and dressmakers are available but increasingly rare. Laundries, Laundromats, dry-cleaners, and shoe repair shops do work comparable to that in the U.S. Adequate electronics repair is available, but usually slow. Spare parts for U.S. makes are in limited supply. Denmark has many good barbershops and excellent beauty shops. Most basic services are more costly than in the U.S.

Religious Activities The Lutheran Church is the state church of Denmark. Roman Catholic, Reformist, Unitarian, Methodist, Baptist, Seventh-day Adventist, and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints also hold services here. A minister of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of America holds ser v i c e s f o r t h e I n t e r n at i o n al Church of Copenhagen. Services in English are also held at the Anglican Episcopal Church of St. Albans and the Internatio nal Baptist Church. Catholic services in English are held at two churches in greater Copenhagen. Jewish services are held at the synagogue weekday mornings, Saturday morning, and every evening at sunset.

Education The three English-language schools listed below are recommended for children of American travelers. Request admittance as far in advance as possible due to possible 118

lack of vacancies in certain classes. The school year runs from midAugust to June. Use the following addresses: Copenhagen International Schools Copenhagen International School (CIS) Gammel Kongevej 15 1610 Copenhagen V Tel.: 31 21 46 33 Copenhagen International Junior School (CIJS) Stenosgade 4C 1616 Copenhagen V Tel.: 31 22 33 03 Rygaards School International Division 54 Bernstorffsvej 2900 Hellerup Tel.: 31 62 10 53 The Copenhagen International Schools (Senior and Junior) are housed adjacently in a downtown location near public transportation. The Senior School (CIS) was founded in 1963 to provide Englishlanguage secondary education for children of the international community (grades 10 to 13). The CIS curriculum is that of a U.S. general academic, college-preparatory public school. The school also prepares students for the international bacc a l a u r e a t e. E n g l i s h , G e r m a n , French, and advanced Danish are taught as foreign languages, and all students must participate in a program of study of the Danish language and culture. The school’s testing program includes the PSAT, SAT, and Achievement tests; ACT tests can be arranged. The Copenhagen International Junior School (CIJS) was founded in 1973 to meet the growing demand for a school for younger children. It comprises pre-kindergarten and kindergarten (4- and 5-year-olds, with 3-year-olds who will be 4 before the end of December), primary school (grades 1 to 6), and middle s ch o o l ( g r a d e s 7 t o 9 ) . P u p i l s through grade 6 are taught in selfcontained classrooms; those in grades 7 to 9 have a departmental-

ized curriculum taught by specialists in their fields. The curriculum is international, combining the best of American and British education. The international school’s curriculum will be followed as it becomes available. The school is accredited by the European Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges. Iowa tests of basic skills are available in grades 4, 6, and 8. Rygaards School is located in a residential suburb of Copenhagen accessible by train and bus. The school was founded in 1909 by Catholic Sisters of the Assumption and is now recognized and supported by the Danish State. Children of all faiths are accepted. The International Division consists of a preschool (4- to 6-year olds), a junior department (6- to 11-yearolds), and a senior department (12to 16-year-olds). In addition to the International Division, Rygaards has a Danish Division. These two divisions function independently but in collaboration under one board and one headmaster. The students at Rygaards come from 40 or more nations. Most of the teachers are British, and the academic instruction follows the British system, culminating in London University “O” level examinations in the final year. This corresponds to American kindergarten through grade 11. Rygaards has an active Parents’ Association. After-school activities are available for many age groups.

Special Educational Opportunities Copenhagen has many nursery schools and kindergartens, both public and private. They are operated independently of the elementary schools, and completion of kindergarten is not a prerequisite for entrance to elementary school.

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Shops on a pedestrian shopping street in Copenhagen

Musical instruction is readily available for adults and children. Excellent contemporary and abstract art and dancing instruction are available. Many municipalities (kommune) in the greater Copenhagen area offer extensive and inexpensive adult education programs with a wide variety of subjects, some taught in English. Several such courses are offered for the study of Danish. These courses usually begin in September and end in February. Pamphlets listing the courses are widely distributed in the Copenhagen area.

Sports Facilities are available for most popular sports. Many neighborhood gymnasiums in Copenhagen have indoor swimming pools. Tennis and badminton are popular, and several

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

clubs have indoor and outdoor courts. Squash clubs are also available. A number of 18-hole, private golf courses are located near Copenhagen. Bowling, flying, gliding, and hang gliding are also available. Sports equipment is more expensive than in the U.S. but is available everywhere.

at lower rates than in the U.S. Several reputable riding schools have indoor rings for winter riding.

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Winter sports are limited to ice skating and occasionally some cross-country skiing north of Copenhagen. Serious skiers must travel north to Norway, or south to France, Germany, Austria, Italy, or Switzerland. Oslo is 8 hours away by train, or overnight by the excellent sleep ferry from Copenhagen. The Bavarian and Swiss Alps are 18–24 hours away by train. Copenhagen travel agencies offer excellent, modestly priced, 8-day package ski trips to these areas.

Summer sports are popular during the short, warm season. Yacht clubs are located along the coast, and sailing is enjoyed from May to October. Many swim in the sea in the summer, despite the chilly water temperature. Fishing on small, private lakes is available. Bicycling and hiking are popular, and hiking and biking clubs sponsor trips to some ch ar mi n g ru r al a re as clos e t o Copenhagen. You may hire horses

Excellent pheasant and duck shooting and some deer hunting is possible, but a game license is required. To obtain one, you must pass a test or hold a U.S. hunting license.

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Many guided tours of Copenhagen are available. One popular tour takes you by boat through the canals of Copenhagen into the harbor and past the famous statue of the Little Mermaid. The airline charter industry is highly developed and competitive here, providing inexpensive vacation packages to all parts of Europe and many other points abroad.

Entertainment Copenhagen’s movie theaters show the latest American and European films. Most feature films are shown in their original language, with Danish subtitles. This Week in Copenhagen (which, despite its name, is a monthly publication) lists a wide variety of events of interest. Copenhagen has symphony orchestras, a ballet (one of the world’s finest), and a national opera company. The most famous of the orchestras is the Radio Denmark Symphony, which gives weekly concerts in winter and often features leading American and European artists. The ballet and opera each offer several performances a week from September through May. Ticket prices are reasonable. Half-price tickets are often available after 5 pm on the day of the performance. Many fine museums are located in or near Copenhagen, including the National Museum of Art and the Carlsberg Glyptotek (with an excellent Rodin collection). The world-famous Tivoli amusement park, in the heart of the city, is synonymous with the spirit of Copenhagen. Open from May 1 to early September, Tivoli features arcades, rides, restaurants, and light and serious music in an atmosphere for children and adults. Copenhagen has many fine restaurants. Traditional Danish cuisine is good, though often bland. Modern Danish cuisine is modeled on that of France. Hard liquor and wine are expensive; a bottle of the house 120

table wine can double the price of a meal. Most Danes stick to beer and snaps (a Danish drink made from potatoes and flavored with caraway) with their meals. Danish beer is deservedly world renowned.

Clubs The American Club of Copenhagen holds monthly luncheon meetings, with guest speakers talking on topics of interest to the membership, which consists of American and Danish business and professional men and women. The American Women’s Club in Denmark, founded in 1934, is a philanthropic and social organization whose membership is predominantly American, but also includes many Danes and women of other nationalities. This is an active social club with both daytime and evening groups for bridge, handicrafts, sports, and cultural/educational activities. The club is actively engaged in projects to raise money for scholarships, art awards, and charities. The club meets monthly on the second Tuesday. The International Women’s Club of Copenhagen (IWC), a nonprofit organization founded in 1977, was formed to welcome and assist newcomers and their families to Denmark, to further goodwill and friendship, and to give financial and material support to philanthropic projects.

Århus Århus (also spelled Aarhus) is Denmark’s second largest city. Located on the east coast of central Jutland on Århus Bay, the city has a population of over 217,000. A commercial, industrial, and shipping center, Århus is also one of Denmark’s oldest cities, developing rapidly after becoming an episcopal see in the 11th century. A decline followed the Reformation of the 16th century, but Århus began to prosper again in the 18th century. Århus is also an important cultural center, with a university, a theater, a large library, and restored-town museum consisting of several old Danish houses. Other buildings of note include the Cathedral of St. Clemens, built in the 12th century, and the town hall, constructed in 1942 of Norwegian marble. År h u s ’ m u s e u m o f p r e h i s t o r y, Mosegård, contains a fascinating e x h i b i t i o n w h i c h i n cl u d e s t h e “Grauballe Man,” a mummified person of two millennia ago. The city also is the site of the world’s largest fire-engine museum, and of a fine aquarium. T i v o l i Fr i h e d e n , Å r h u s ’ l a r g e amusement park, is open daily from late April to mid-August; concert performances are frequent features.

Odense

A regular, monthly luncheon is held on the fourth Thursday of each month. A program is presented at each luncheon, either with an international theme or on some aspect of life in Denmark. Also, a wide range of activities is offered, giving members an opportunity to meet in smaller groups. Sports, language, and cultural interests are catered to so that there is something for everyone.

Odense, Denmark’s third largest city with a population of 145,000, is located in the north-central part of Fyn Island. Linked by canal with the Odense Fjord, the city is an important commercial, industrial, and cultural center, as well as a rail junction. Odense, meaning “Shrine of Odin” (the supreme Norse god), has large shipyards which export agricultural produce. Machinery, textiles, beer, electrical equipment, and motor vehicles are manufactured.

Copenhagen also has local chapters o f R o t a r y I n t e r n a t i o n a l , Fr e e Masons, Odd Fellows, and American Legion.

One of the oldest cities in northern Europe, Odense was founded in the 10th century and became an episcopal see in 1020. Its Cathedral of St.

Denmark

Cities of the World

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Sankt Clemens Torv Mall in Århus

Knud, built in the 13th century, is one of the finest examples of Danish Gothic architecture. Odense is perhaps best known as the birthplace (in 1805) of Hans Christian Andersen, author of such fairy tales as The Ugly Duckling, The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Snow Queen, The Little Mermaid, and more than 160 others. A small, red-tiled house at the corner of Han Jensensstraded and Bangs Boder, near downtown Odense, is Andersen’s birthplace. The neighborhood has been restored to its 19th-century appearance and the Andersen home is now part of an impressive museum devoted to the Danish writer. Other cities of importance on Fyn Island are Nyborg, with a population of 16,000, a seaside resort, known for its shipyards and textile mills; and Svendborg (population of 28,000), with its shipyards and breweries.

OTHER CITIES ÅLBORG (spelled Aalborg until 1948) is located on Jutland in northern Denmark. Jutland, the peninsula that divides the North Sea from the Baltic Sea, is the only part of Denmark attached to mainland Europe. It has unspoiled beaches, medieval hamlets, lush countryside, and an English-speaking population that is quite hospitable. Ålborg, the capital of Nordylland County, is situated on the Lim Fjord and is a major industrial and cultural center, as well as a commercial seaport. With a current population of about 120,000, Ålborg manufactures machinery, chemicals, cement, liquor, ships, and textiles. Known since the 11th century, the city was chartered in 1342. Of interest here is the 12th-century Cathedral of St. Botolph and a 16th-century castle. The local museum was designed by

the Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. Scandinavia’s largest festival of drama, dance, and music is held annually in Ålborg in September. Near the city is Rebild National Park, where American Independence Day is celebrated each year by Danes and Danish-Americans. Nearby, too, is Legoland, with its miniature cities, Mount Rushmore and Statue of Liberty replicas, and other wonders built from Lego blocks. Ålborg is also known for its oysters, both succulent and plentiful, from the Lim Fjord. ESBJERG, Denmark’s largest fishing port, is located in southwest Jutland on the North Sea. With a current population of 73,000, Esbjerg is a commercial and industrial center whose main development came after the construction of its port in the late 19th century. It was chartered as a city in 1899. Esbjerg’s harbor, the best on the penin121

Denmark sula’s west coast, exports meats and dairy products. FREDERICIA, a seaport on the southeastern Jutland, has a population of close to 37,000. An important industrial center and rail junction, as well as a port of Lille Baelt, Fredericia manufactures textiles and chemicals and also has an oil refinery. Frederick III built the town as the main fortress on Jutland in 1650, and there was no expansion beyond the ramparts. Fredericia was the scene of the battle in which the Danes defeated the Prussians on July 6, 1849. Modern development began when the fortress was closed in 1909. GENTOFTE, a suburb north of Copenhagen with a population of more than 77,000, is situated in eastern Denmark, less than 10 miles north of Frederiksberg. Many of the country’s foreign embassies are located here. Gentofte has a horse-trotting course and is the home of the famous Tuborg breweries. HELSINGØR (also called Elsinore) is located in northwestern Sjaelland directly across the Øresund Strait (or Sound) from Hälsingborg, Sweden. About 25 miles north of Copenhagen, Helsingør experienced its greatest growth from the 15th to the mid-17th century, when Danish kings collected tolls from the ships passing through the straits. Today, Helsingør is a fishing port, summer resort, and industrial center, manufacturing ships, machinery, textiles, and beer. Helsingør is probably best known as the site of Kronborg Castle, built between 1554 and 1585 and completely restored in the years 1925 to 1937. Considered the most secure fortress in the country, it was captured by Sweden in 1660. However, the castle is most famous as the scene of Shakespeare’s Hamlet; although Hamlet never lived at the castle, it is often the site of performances of the play. A maritime museum also is housed at Kronborg. The city is home to 35,000 residents. HORSENS is a port on Horsens Fjord, on the east coast of central 122

Cities of the World Jutland. Wit h a population of 49,000, the city is a commercial and industrial center 23 miles south of Århus. It exports dairy products and manufactures tobacco products, textiles, and electrical equipment. A fortified town in the Middle Ages, the 13th-century monastery and church within its ramparts may be visited in Horsens today. KOLDING is located in south-central Jutland on the eponymous fjord, an inlet of Lille Baelt. A seaport which exports cattle, fish, and grain, Kolding has a population of 53,000. Dating back to the 10th century, the city is the site of two important battles in Danish history; in 1644, the Danes defeated the Swedes here and, on April 12, 1849, the Danes were defeated in the Schleswig-Holstein conflict. Historical buildings include the oldest stone church in Denmark, built in the 13th century, and Koldinghus, a royal castle built in 1248. Situated in southeastern Denmark, NAESTVED is about 35 miles south of the capital. Built around a Benedictine monastery which was founded in 1135, Naestved developed into a market center after the monks moved in the 12th century. The city’s landmarks include St. Peder Kirke, the only reminder of the monastery; St. Morten’s Kirke; and the remains of a medieval hospital, which is now a museum. The city manufactures textiles, glass, pottery, and paper. With a population of about 40,000, Naestved also has a fishing port. RANDERS is a seaport on east Jutland, at the mouth of the Gudenå River. Located 22 miles north of Århus, Randers, whose population is 56,000, is a commercial and industrial center that produces d a i r y p r o d u c t s. T h e c i t y w a s founded in the 11th century and was an important trade center in the Middle Ages. Noted for its salmon fishing today, Randers has a 15th-century edifice—Church of St. Morton—and an 18th-century town hall.

About 15 miles south of Esbjerg is the town of RIBE, the capital of Ribe County. With a population of 8,000, the city is known for its architecture. Its cathedral, built about 1130, and restored in the late 19th century, is an excellent example of Dutch Romanesque design. Ribe prospered in the Middle Ages; the Black Friar’s Abbey (built 1228), St. Catherine’s Church (built about 1230), and the city hall (14th century) are examples of architecture from that period. There is also a wealth of 16th- and 17th-century houses. ROSKILDE is a residential suburb 20 miles west of Copenhagen. A port on the Roskilde Fjord, it is one of the oldest cities in Denmark, serving as the country’s capital from the 10th century until 1443, when it was replaced by Copenhagen. Roskilde was Denmark’s ecclesiastical center from 1020 to 1536; then, during the Reformation, it was suppressed. The Treaty of Roskilde, signed in 1658, ceded Denmark’s lands in southern Sweden to Charles X of Sweden. The city’s cathedral, built late in the 12th century, contains about 40 royal tombs, including those of most Danish kings. There is also a museum of Viking ships and an atomic research center nearby. The city’s current population is approximately 43,000. VEJLE, in central Jutland, is a seaport on the fjord which bears its name. A commercial and industrial center and a rail junction, with a population of nearly 48,000, Vejle manufactures soap, textiles, and leather goods. St. Nicholas Church, built in the 13th century and later restored, is among the interesting local sights.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Denmark lies directly north of Germany and south of Norway. The

Denmark

Cities of the World European part of the country proper is slightly smaller than Vermont and New Hampshire combined. Denmark consists of the Jutland Peninsula and 406 islands, of which 100 are inhabited. The straits between these islands connect the Baltic and the North Seas. About 40 percent of the population is located on the island of Zealand, the largest island in Denmark proper. Here, the capital, Copenhagen, can be found. Greenland and the Faroe Islands, although self-governing, are parts of Denmark. Greenland is the largest island in the world.

one of the more difficult European languages to speak; a reading knowledge is more easily acquired. Most Danes speak English. Education is compulsory from ages 7 to 16 and is free through the university level on the basis of competitive exams. The Lutheran Church is state supported and accounts for about 95 percent of Denmark’s religious affiliation. Several other Protestant denominations and other religions exist.

Public Institutions

Denmark is regarded as an agricultural country. However, dramatic changes have occurred in recent years, and today only about 5 percent of the population is employed in agriculture.

Denmark is the oldest kingdom in Europe. During the Viking period (9th-11th centuries), Denmark was a great power, based on the Jutland Peninsula, the island of Zealand, and the southern part of Sweden.

The coastline is irregular and dotted with inlets, breaks, gently sloping fjords, and impressive cliffs. The public has access, as a right, to all the beaches of the country, including right of passage along privately owned shore.

It became a constitutional monarchy with the adoption of the Constitution of 1849, which removed the King’s absolute power and provided for separate administrative, legislative, and judicial agencies. This system was retained in the Constitution of 1953, now in force.

Because Denmark is almost entirely surrounded by sea, it has a moderate, maritime climate. This, however, produces changeable weather, which makes forecasting an imperfect art. The average temperatures range from 32°F in February to 61°F in July. Temperatures vary slightly from day to night. Average annual rainfall is 24 inches. August and October are the wettest months. Days are short in winter, with about 6 hours of daylight in December and January. Daylight in summer lasts 18-20 hours.

Population Denmark’s population is about 5.4 million. About one-fourth live in Copenhagen and its suburbs. The Danes, a homogenous GothicGermanic people, have inhabited Denmark since prehistoric times. Danish, the principal language, is

The Danish royal family is the oldest dynasty in Europe. The present Queen, Margrethe II, ascended to the throne in 1972. The Queen, as head of the government, holds formal executive power, but her authority is mostly symbolic. She governs through the Prime Minister, Anders Fogh Rasmussen, who is chosen by the government party (or parties, in cases of coalitions) in the Parliament. The Prime Minister, in turn, appoints the Ministers, who implement government policy. The Parliament, or Folketing, is unicameral. Its 179 members are popularly elected by universal suffrage. The usual term for the Folketi n g i s 4 y e a r s, b u t t h e P r i m e Minister may call for national elections at any time. Eight parties are represented in Parliament, but none

has enough seats to form a majority government alone. The judicial branch of government is an appointed and independent Supreme Court.

Arts, Science, and Education Denmark has a rich cultural and intellectual heritage and continues to contribute to the cultural achievements of the modern world. The astronomical discoveries of Tycho Brahe and the brilliant contributions to atomic physics of Niels Bohr are indicative of the range of Danish scientific achievement. The “fairy tales” of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-75), the philosophical essays of Soren Kierkegaard, and the short stories of Karen Blixen (pen name Isak Dinesen) have earned international recognition, as have the symphonies of Carl Nielsen. Danish applied art and industrial design have won awards for excellence. The name Georg Jensen is famous for outstanding modern design in silver, and “Royal Copenhagen” is among the best of fine porcelains. The Royal Danish Ballet is an exceptional company, specializing in the work of the great Danish choreographer August Bournonville. Danes have distinguished themselves as jazz musicians, and the Copenhagen Jazz Festival has acquired an international reputation. International collections of modern art enjoy unusually attractive settings at the Louisiana Museum, north of Copenhagen, and at the North Jutland Art Museum in Aalborg. The State Museum of Art and the Glyptotek, both in Copenhagen, contain treasures of Danish and international art. The Museum of Applied Art and Industrial Design in Copenhagen holds exhibits, featuring the best in Danish design. 123

Denmark Among Danish writers today, probably the most prolific is Klaus Rifbjerg—poet, novelist, playwright, and screenwriter. Benny Andersen writes poems, short stories, and music. Poems by both writers have been translated into English by Curbstone Press. Kirsten Thorup’s Baby, winner of the 1980 Pegasus Prize, is printed in English by the University of Louisiana Press. The psychological thrillers of Anders Bodelsen also appear in English. In music, Hans Abrahamsen and Per Norgaard are the two most famous living composers. Hans Abrahamsen’s works have been performed by the National Symphony Orchestra in Washington, D.C. Two Danish films, “Babette’s Feast” and “Pelle the Conqueror,” won Academy Awards as Best Foreign Film in 1988 and 1989, respectively. Danish education follows the traditional European system. School attendance is mandatory through age 15, when most students either continue their education or enter an apprenticeship program. Danes take great pride in achieving the status of skilled workers. Great emphasis is placed on adult education. Many evening courses are offered at Copenhagen University and in high schools. Higher education is offered at commercial and technical colleges and universities. Denmark’s universities are at Copenhagen, Aarhus, Odense, Roskilde, and Aalborg. The University of Copenhagen, the oldest and largest, has five faculties: theology, law and economics, medicine, arts, and science. Other seats of higher learning include the Technical University of Denmark, Academy of Engineers, Dental Colleges, and School of Pharmacy. In addition to academic requirements, foreign students must be fluent in the Danish language. Interest in science and the arts is promoted by universities and special foundations such as the Carlsberg/Tuborg Foundation. Other research is financed by the State. 124

Cities of the World One of Denmark’s best known institutes is the Niels Bohr Institute of Theoretical Physics in Copenhagen.

Commerce and Industry An agricultural economy until World War II, in the postwar period, initially assisted by the Marshall Plan, Denmark rapidly developed into a modern industry and services society. Agriculture and fishing today account for 3 percent of the economy, services 72 percent, and industry 25 percent. Metal working and food processing are the most important industries. Denmark’s few natural resources are farmland, fish, and oil and natural gas in the North Sea. The Danish economy is, therefore, based on adding value to domestic and imported raw materials. Its living standard is one of the highest in the world. It has a highly unionized, well-paid, and skilled labor force. Denmark is heavily dependent on foreign trade. About 73 percent of total commodity exports are manufactured products and 17 percent agricultural and fish products. 2000 saw a 2.8% increase in the economy, assisted by continued strong exports, but also by a recovery in domestic demand. The present inflation rate, 2.9 percent, is low among the OECD countries. Following more than a quarter of a century of recurring balance-of-payments deficits, resulting in a large foreign debt and consequently large interest payments, the balance shifted into a surplus in 1990 and 1991, where it has remained, with the exception of a temporary deficit in 1998. The U.S., in 2000, ranked number seven among Denmark’s trading partners, accounting for more than 4 percent of total Danish commodity trade worth $68 billion. The EU accounts for more than half of the trade, Germany alone for 22 percent. Major U.S. exports to Denmark are aircraft, machinery and EDP equipment. Major Danish

exports to the U.S. are machinery and equipment, foodstuffs (mostly canned ham and pork), and furniture. Denmark is a major shipbuilding and shipping nation. A large share of shipping earnings stem from liner trade to and from the U.S. Danish shipbuilding.

Transportation Local Traffic moves on the right. Copenhagen’s public transportation system is excellent. It includes bus and train service that is quick, clean, safe, and convenient. Fares are reasonable and monthly passes are available at reduced rates. Trains provide quick service to the suburbs, but little between midnight and 5 am. Taxis are usually plentiful. All taxis have meters for calculating fares. They are not expensive.

Regional Copenhagen is connected to all major European centers by rail and air. Both TWA and Delta Air Lines have daily service between the U.S. and Copenhagen. Tower Air operates flights twice weekly. Scandinavian Air Lines and other international airlines also provide service between Copenhagen and major U.S. cities. Daily rail service is available to most European capitals. Ferries travel to Norway, Sweden, Germany, Poland, and England. Many Danes use bicycles, not only for recreation, but also as a primary means of transportation. Designated bicycle lanes exist on most major thoroughfares. They are situated between the street and the sidewalk. Bicycles are required to have reflectors and, at night, are required to display a white light in front and a red light on the rear. Insurance is recommended. New bicycles are more expensive in Denmark than in the U.S.

Denmark

Cities of the World Bicycles have the right-of-way and cars must yield to them. The only time a bicycle must yield to a pedestrian or a motor vehicle is when a pedestrian exits a city bus or when a motor vehicle is turning with a protected turn green light.

and other English-language newspapers are sold at the main train station and in lobbies of large hotels. Danish libraries are good and have English sections. Books in English are also available at the British Council library.

Pedestrians and motorists must not walk or turn into a bicycle lane.

Copenhagen bookstores sell the latest American and British books at about double the U.S. price.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Local and long-distance telephone services are good. International telephone and telegraph service is available from Copenhagen to all parts of the world. AT&T credit card “USA Direct” service, MCI, and Sprint are available for calls to the U.S. and result in significant savings. Local telephone bills are received quarterly. No itemized breakdown of charge per call is available, even for long-distance calls, unless an operator is used.

Radio and TV Denmark has two national TV channels and three national radio stations. Two Swedish TV channels can be received in Copenhagen with a good antenna. American and British programs and movies are often shown on all four TV channels in the original English, with Danish/ Swedish subtitles. Color transmission is excellent. The PAL standard is used for broadcasting by Danish TV. Cable TV is available in most areas. Both CNN International and BBC are available on cable, as well as French, German, and Norwegian stations. Where cable is not available, satellite reception is available. Both systems have costs similar to those in the U.S. Radio reception from Swedish, German, and British stations, as well as the German-based American Forces network, is possible with a good receiver and antenna.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Time, Newsweek, the Wall Street Journal, and the International Herald Tribune are sold locally. These

Health and Medicine Danish medical care is of high quality and is comparable to the medical care one finds throughout Western Europe. However, despite its high quality, the system for providing care in Denmark is different from that in the U.S. Waiting periods are common for routine, non-emergency surgery. Diagnostic tests take longer to schedule than in the U.S.

Medical Facilities Diagnostic laboratories and specialists in all fields of medicine are av a il a bl e. H o s p i ta ls a r e we ll equipped and reasonably priced. Maternity hospitals and many clinics are available. Most doctors and dentists speak English. M o s t m e d i c i n e s a r e av a i l a b l e locally. They may not, however, be the same brand names as those used in the U.S. Prices are higher than in the U.S., even though the prices are state controlled. Bring a supply of medicine that you know you will need.

Community Health Sanitary conditions in Denmark are excellent. Danish law is strict about commercial processing, cooking, handling, and serving of foods. All dairies in the city supply pasteurized milk from tubercular-tested cows. All milk is safe to drink. Copenhagen is cleaner than most U.S. cities of comparable size. Denmark has had no serious epidemics in years. Colds, influenza, and throat infections may be aggravated in winter by dampness and lack of sunshine. Persons with

arthritis, rheumatism, and sinus troubles may find winter uncomfortable.

Preventive Measures No special health risks occur in Denmark, and no special inoculations are required. Any needed immunization is available in Copenhagen.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . .Three King’s Day Feb. 14 . . . . . . . . . .Valentine’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Palm Sunday Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Maundy Thursday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* Apr. 16 . . . . . . . . . .Queen Margrethe’s Birthday Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Common Prayer Day* May/June. . . . . . . .Ascension Day* May . . . . . . . . . . . .Mother’s Day* May/June. . . . . . . .Whitsunday* May/June. . . . . . . .Whitmonday* June 5 . . . . . . . . . .Constitution Day June . . . . . . . . . . . .Father’s Day* June 15 . . . . . . . . .Flag Day June . . . . . . . . . . . .Mid Summer Party* Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .Second Christmas Day Dec. 31 . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Eve *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Travel to Copenhagen involves no special problems. Danish weather is variable, so bring clothing for cold and rain, whatever the season. A valid passport is the only document needed for entry into Denmark. Neither a visa nor a 125

Denmark vaccination certificate is required for entry. U.S. visitors to Greenland and the Faroes require visas. Cats and dogs imported from Australia, Faroe Islands, Finland, Iceland, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, Sweden, and the U.K. require no veterinary certificates. No stay is allowed outside these countries during travel to Denmark. The animals must be accompanied by their owner or other person. Cats and dogs imported from other countries and Greenland require a special form, stating all relevant information, and certifying that the animal has been vaccinated against rabies, which must be presented to Customs. The certificate must further state that vaccination has taken place within the time limit of 1-12 months from the date of presentation. The pets must be accompanied by their owner or other person. Import of other animals is subject to a special permit from the Danish Veterinary Authorities (contact Danish Consul). A bilingual Danish-English certificate should be used if possible. A Veterinary Health Certificate, executed between 1 and 10 days before arrival in Copenhagen, is recommended. The key to avoiding problems on arrival is to have the vaccination certificate, the health certificate, and the pet(s) accompany the traveler.

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Cities of the World Denmark has decided not to convert to the euro. The Danish monetary units are kroner and ore, with 100 ore equaling 1 kroner. Coins are issued in 25 and 50 ore pieces, and 1, 5, 10, and 20 kroner pieces. Notes are issued in 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 kroner denominations. The current exchange rate is DKr 7.95=US$1. The metric system of weights and measures is used in Denmark.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications. Andersen, Ulla. We Live in Denmark. Watts, Franklin, Inc.: 1984. Baedeker’s Denmark. New York: Prentice-Hall, latest edition. Birch, John H. Denmark in History. Gordon Press: 1976.

Danish Everyday Life. Ayer Company Publishers, Inc.: 1981. Hartling, Poul., ed. The Danish Church. Repr. of 1964 ed. Nordic Books. Holbraad, Carsten. Danish Neutrality: A Study in the Foreign Policy of a Small State. New York: Oxford University Press, 1991. Johansen, Hans C. The Danish Economy in the Twentieth Century. St. Martin’s Press: 1986. Jones, W. Glyn. Denmark: A Modern History, 2nd ed. Chapman & Hall, Inc.: 1986. Jones, W. Glyn, and Kristen Gade. Blue Guide: Denmark. New York: Norton, 1992. Lye, Keith. Take a Trip to Denmark. Watts, Franklin, Inc.: 1985. MacHaffie, Ingeborg S., and Margaret A. Nielsen. Of Danish Ways. New York: HarperCollins, 1984. Miller, Kenneth E. Denmark: A Troubled Welfare State. Westview Press: 1991. Lerner, Geography Dept. Staff Denmark in Pictures. Lerner Publications Company: 1991.

Borish, Steven M. The Land of the Living: The Danish Folk High Schools & Denmark’s Non-Violent Path to Modernization. Blue Dolphin Publishing: 1991.

P’alsson, Herman & Edwards, Paul. Kyntlinga Saga: History of the K i n g s O f D en m a rk . C o r o n e t Books: 1986.

Flender, Harold. Rescue in Denmark. Repr. Paper. Anti-Defamation League of B’nai B’rith.

Tansill, Charles C. Purchase of the Danish West Indies. Repr. of 1932 ed. Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc.: 1968.

Gronlund, J. The Denmark Book. Vanous Arthur Company: 1988. Hansen, Judith E. We are a Little Land: Cultural Assumptions in

Danish Embassies have an excellent selection of government and tourist organization publications on Denmark.

ESTONIA Republic of Estonia

Major City: Tallinn Other Cities and Regions: Hiiumaa, Narva, Saaremaa, Tartu

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Estonia. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION ESTONIA has had a history of domination by other countries. Ruled at times by Germans, Swedes, Russians, and finally the Soviets, Estonia had a brief period of independence from 1920 to 1940, when it was forcibly annexed by the Soviets. Occupied by German forces between 1941 and 1944, Estonia was once again claimed by the Soviets after World War II and remained a Soviet republic until its independence was declared in August 1991.

Tallinn Built in a naturally formed harbor on the Baltic Sea, Tallinn is a picturesque capital city with a long

maritime tradition. The Old Town and the adjacent Toompea (Castle Hill) contain Tallinn's oldest buildings that reflect the city's history as an important point on the east-west trade route from the Middle Ages and later. The 13th century fortress on Toompea and several church spires on Toompea and in the Old Town, built from the 13th to 16th centuries, dominate Tallinn's skyline. Near the lower town, where the artisans and merchants traditionally lived, remnants of the town wall begun in the 13th century remain. Cobbled streets wen d around the Old Town, passing houses once belonging to wealthy merchants and the guildhalls from where these merchants controlled trade in agricultural commodities and artisanship during the days when Tallinn was a member of the Hanseatic League. These days the Old Town is filled with tourists and Estonians frequenting the many cafes, restaurants, and shops. Modern Tallinn has a vibrant business and arts community. Immediately east of the Old Town is the more modern center of Tallinn (Kesklinn). Theaters and museums are located in both the Kesklinn and Old Town, as are many apartment buildings.

Utilities Standard electric power in Estonia is 220v and runs at 50 cycles, but voltage may run lower than that. Electricity is generally reliable. Any appliances or other electrical items that run at 110v must be used simultaneously with a step-down transformer. Also, bring, and use, surge protectors and step-down transformers for 110v computer equipment.

Food A wide variety of shops and markets in Tallinn supply basic food needs, and the number of larger supermarket-type stores continues to grow. Availability and variety of imported fruits, vegetables, locally produced meats, dairy products, and various f o o d s i m p o r t e d f r o m We s t e r n Europe have increased dramatically since independence. Many American convenience type foods and specialty items are not available in Tallinn (boxed brownie and cake mixes, chocolate chips, Crisco, boxed macaroni and cheese, pop tarts, frozen waffles, etc.).

Clothing Men: Business suits and slack/ blazer combinations are recommended for work. Various weights of wool can be worn throughout the year. Few social occasions in Tallinn require a tuxedo. For casual fall and winter wear, wool, corduroy and 127

Estonia other heavier weight slacks are appropriate. Turtlenecks, sweaters, and clothes from various outdoor outfitters are best for keeping warm. However, you may not want to bring too many sweaters, as Estonian knitwear is of excellent quality, affordable, and readily available. Women: Wool suits and separates are recommended, as are longsleeved blouses, turtlenecks, and sweaters. Bring a large supply of heavier weight stockings or tights in addition to regular nylons. For some affairs, dressier cocktail-length dresses are appropriate. Heavier weight fabrics such as wool or corduroy are recommended. In general, more subdued colors are most common, but women in Estonia often wear bright colors to formal events. For social events, the fashion trend in Tallinn is stylish and follows that in any Western or northern European capital city. Children: Good-quality, reasonably priced snowsuits and winter children's outerwear are available locally. Children, as well as adults, need to wear hats and gloves from October through May. Both men and women should bring warm coats suitable for work and casual wear. A raincoat with a liner and umbrella is also useful throughout the year, but especially from March to October. Both men and women wear hats and gloves or mittens from October through March. Warm, breathable raingear is recommended for wet autumn months. Winter clothes should include the warmest clothes you would wear in Washington, D.C., during January a n d Fe b r u a r y. T h e s e m a y b e appropriate for fall and spring in Tallinn as well. You should count on layering and wearing sweaters and heavier dress clothes from October until May. In addition, bring several pairs of long underwear. Lightweight silk or synthetic long underwear is recommended. In the summer, clothes worn in the fall or spring in Washington, D.C., are appropriate. Women will find 128

Cities of the World separates useful, especially jackets and cardigans, because the weather is cooler in the morning and late evening during summer. As for casual clothes, those that you would wear during a northern New England summer are best. Shorts are appropriate for sports, picnics, and casual outings. It should be n o t e d t ha t a i r- c o nd i t i o n i n g i s almost nonexistent in Estonia. Office buildings, stores, shops, and homes can become quite warm for short periods in the summer months, so bring a small supply of short-sleeve dress shirts or blouses suitable for work. Footwear throughout the year should be sturdy. The cobblestone streets of the Old Town, not to mention the damp, cold winter weather, are particularly hard on shoes. For winter, bring waterproof boots with soles that will not slip on the icy sidewalks and streets. From November through April, most women wear boots because shoes are not warm enough for walking on the cold, wet, and icy sidewalks. For men, thickly soled shoes or a pair of boots is recommended. Overshoes are also a useful wardrobe addition. Generally, footwear here is slightly more expensive than in the U.S.

Supplies and Services Since 1991, the types of goods and supplies available in Tallinn have increased week by week. The general rule of thumb is that almost any item can be obtained in Estonia's capital, but some items are prone to sporadic availability. In addition, a 18% value-added tax is placed on imported goods. Western European and American toiletries, cosmetics, and feminine personal supplies are available in Tallinn as are cleaning supplies, food products, items for pets, clothes washing needs, contact lens supplies, and basic first-aid items. Not all brands are available, so if you are partial to a specific brand, bring it with you. Good-quality items are expensive but not prohibitively so. Cooks interested in preparing various international or ethnic foods

should bring a basic supply of what they need, such as specialty spices and condiments. Some items for international cooking (especially Tex-Mex) can be found, but they are not always available. There are a wide variety of basic services available in Tallinn, and increasingly, the quality of these services is similar to that offered in other Western European capitals. Everyday services such as shoe, watch, and eyeglass repair are available in Tallinn. In addition to beauty- and barbershops at the major hotels, Tallinn has many smaller salons for men's and women's haircuts. Many individuals work as dressmakers out of their own homes. Reliable drycleaning facilities, at prices similar to or slightly lower than in the U.S. are also available. Kodak, Fuji, and Agfa franchises are located in Tallinn and have excellent machine-assisted developing processes. The quality of color prints is high, but the cost is higher than that in the Washington, D.C., area. Kodak, Fuji, and Agfa color print and slide film, as well as black-and-white print film, are readily available for prices similar to those in Washington, D.C. Camera batteries and other smaller batteries are also readily available. In general, most local services are similar in quality and less expensive than in Washington, D.C.

Domestic Help Domestic help, including childcare, is available in Tallinn. Most domestics are not trained household staff, per se. Rather, they are more often under- or unemployed people, often just out of school, or with grown children who have basic cleaning, cooking, and childcare skills who are attracted by the above-average wages paid by the international community (EEK2550/hour [$2$3.50]depending on the tasks r e q u i r e d ) . G e n e r a l l y, y o u n g e r household help will speak at least some English, will be familiar with

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Under direction of an American, classes (preschool through grade 8) are taught in English. The curriculum follows Western education standards. Most teachers are native English speakers. Aside from the basic curriculum, German, Estonian, computer, art, music, and physical education are also taught. In fall 1997, the school moved to a new facility, sharing a wing of the Tallinn Medical School. This provided students with larger classrooms, use of a cafeteria, gymnasium, and auditorium, and a large outdoor play area. Currently, I.E.S.E. cannot accommodate children with special needs. The Tallinn International English Kindergarten, established in September 1997, is another option for preschool children.

Sports Tallinn has a good range of sporting opportunities, including modern indoor and outdoor sports facilities. Most sports facilities and clubs cost less than in metropolitan Washington, D.C.

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Estonian Orthodox church with three onion-dome towers

modern appliances, and will be easier to train. However, younger staff may not be committed to more than short-term or occasional work. Older domestic staff are more likely to commit to longer, full-time work, but are less likely to speak English, less likely to be familiar with Western appliances, and less likely to adhere to Western cleanliness and hygiene standards. Generally, domestic help is employed during business hours, and on evenings and weekends as needed. Live-in domestic staff is rare in Estonia. The best way to hire help is to find someone through word of mouth. The community liaison By law, the employer must pay the employee's social security and ill-

ness compensation coverage at a rate of 33% of the employee's salary.

Religious Activities Tallinn has Lutheran, Catholic, Baptist, and Russian Orthodox churches. There is a service in English once a month and on holidays at a Lutheran church. The Catholic church holds services in English the first Sunday of every month. A Jewish community center, with a provisional synagogue, holds services in Russian on Saturdays and Jewish holidays.

Education The International Elementary School of Estonia (I.E.S.E) was established in 1995 and has steadily increased its enrollment since then.

Indoor sports are particularly popular and, in winter, often a necessary diversion. Several sports clubs offer aerobics classes and weight lifting equipment. In addition, these clubs often have showering, sauna, massage, and solarium facilities. A couple of squash clubs have opened in Tallinn. Tallinn has several indoor swimming facilities, and a few of the large health clubs have small lap pools. Estonia's favorite team sport is basketball. Tallinn has a bowling alley similar in quality and price to a U.S. bowling facility. Tennis players will find a tennis center in Kadriorg Park, as well as two other smaller outdoor facilities near downtown Tallinn. Some indoor courts exist, but outdoor courts offer late evening tennis during late spring and summer. Lessons with English-speaking coaches for children and adults can be arranged. Court fees are inexpensive. Summer picnicking spots abound along the Estonian seacoast and 129

Estonia lakes, but they make for chilly bathing, even in the midsummer. Windsurfing, kayaking, and canoeing are possible on the Baltic as well as on Estonia's many lakes and rivers. The Tallinn Yachting Center, the site of the 1980 Olympic sailing events, is Estonia's premier sailing center. Sailboats (with or without crew) can be rented at slightly below U.S. rates. Boating equipment, particularly safety equipment, may be limited. As soon as the first snow falls, Estonians begin to plan cross-country skiing outings. There are numerous skiing spots in wooded areas of Tallinn and at places in the countryside close enough to drive for a day trip. More adventurous skiers can plan overnight trips as well. Tallinn has two skating rinks, including a modern indoor facility. Good-quality cross-country skiing equipment and skates in all sizes are purchased easily and inexpensively. Running is popular in Estonia, but cold temperatures, darkness, and icy sidewalks require that runners bring appropriate cold weather attire and wear safety reflectors. Sidewalks are often too icy for safe winter running. Rollerblading is increasingly popular in Estonia. Rollerblade equipment is readily available locally, at prices similar to or slightly below Washington, D.C. prices. Estonia has one golf course, located about 12.5 kilometers from downtown. It is open to the public, well maintained, and offers a complete range of golfing services including a driving range, a pro shop, and a clubhouse. Greens fees are slightly higher than in the U.S. Bicycling enthusiasts will find many possibilities for biking around Estonia. Rural roads just outside Tallinn and around the country are uncrowded, and the topography is usually flat. The hilly southeastern region resembles western Maryland and is also good for bike trips. Although main roads are surfaced, they are often rough. Bikes with wider tires such as “mountain 130

Cities of the World bikes” are more comfortable on rough surfaces. Tallinn's many bike shops sell a variety of brands and styles at prices similar to, or less expensive, than in Washington, D.C. Horseback riding and lessons are available in Tallinn and at several other locations near the city. Spectators can watch many sporting events and exhibitions during the year. For example, basketball, soccer, and handball games are played at various locations in Tallinn.

Touring and Outdoor Activities There is much to do and see while touring Tallinn, the countryside, and the Baltic Sea coastline. With many shops, restaurants, and cafes, Tallinn is well setup for visitors, most of whom are day- or short-term travelers arriving by boat from Helsinki. In the Old Town, you can take a walking tour (on your own or with a guide) of the cobblestone streets while looking at finely preserved examples of Gothic and Hanseatic architecture. The Old Town has a heavy concentration of shops, restaurants, cafes, museums, and other diversions. In Kadriorg Park, on the eastern edge of the city center, a walk in a peaceful wooded setting leads to the baroque Kadriorg Palace, built for Catherine I, wife of Tsar Peter I. The ruins of a cloister and convent dating from 1436 located near Pirita (about 2 kilometers east of the city center) provide another picturesque and interesting place to visit. In summer, Pirita Beach is popular for swimming, sunbathing, and boating. Possibilities for day trips within a 3to 4-hour round-trip drive from Tallinn abound, as Estonia is filled with pine forests and shoreline waiting to be explored. The Lahemaa National Forest, 40 kilometers east of Tallinn on the Gulf of Finland, is a good place to picnic and walk in naturally beautiful surroundings. Numerous well-preserved German manor houses are found in and around Lahemaa Park.

Matsalu, a 2½-hour drive from Tallinn, is a nature preserve and waterbird sanctuary on the coast south and west of the capital. It, too, is a good place to picnic and walk. A hilly inland spot with beautiful forests and lakes is Aegviidu, a 75minute drive from Tallinn. Aegviidu is especially popular among crosscountry skiers. Interesting overnight trips from Tallinn can easily be arranged, as overnight accommodations have existed for a long time but are just beginning to be renovated for tourists and be advertised. Tartu, a 2½hour drive from Tallinn, is close enough for a day trip, but there is enough to do there to make it an overnight excursion. It is worth seeing Tartu's several museums, art galleries, and historical buildings, including two red-brick Gothic churches (the remains of a 13th-century church and a standing 14th century church) and Tartu University. Hotels in Tartu offer comfortable accommodations. Near Tartu is the hilly region of southeastern Estonia, and the resort town of Otepaa. Since there is generally more snow in southeastern Estonia than in other parts of the country, Otepaa is popular with cross-country skiers. Several guesthouse-type accommodations are available in the area. Parnu is a 2-hour drive south of Tallinn and is a picturesque seaside resort town with many new cafes, restaurants, and several nicely renovated hotels. Narva, a 3½-hour drive northeast of Tallinn, is located on the border with Russia. Narva Castle, built when Narva was an important Hanseatic port, dates from the 13th century and now houses a historical museum well worth visiting. The castle's setting is unique because it sits across the Narva River from the castle in Ivangorod, Russia. Residents of Narva claim that these two fortresses are the closest, once-warring castles in the world. Estonia’s many islands offer restful vacation places. The largest of the islands, Saaremaa, is a 3½-hour

Estonia

Cities of the World drive-and-ferry ride from Tallinn. Kuressaare, the island's largest town, is quaint. The Kuressaare Episcopal Castle dates from the 14th century and is considered Estonia's best preserved castle. Like the castle at Narva, it houses a good historical museum. Saaremaahas many beaches, forests, and two wildlife preserves, including one with an established bird sanctuary. Hiumaa Island, Estonia's second largest island, is also about a 3½hour drive-and-ferry ride from Tallinn, and well worth a visit. Many of Estonia's islands offer overnight accommodations. This is by no means an exhaustive list of Estonia's touring possibilities. Like most European cities, in order to decide where to go, you must consult guidebooks, various locally published newspapers and periodicals (in Estonian and English), travel agents, the Tallinn City Tourist Office, and Estonian friends. Estonia has a reasonably good road system that makes it easy to travel, and touring Estonia never disappoints the resourceful traveler.

Entertainment Music is a central aspect of Estonian culture, and, therefore, entertainment in Tallinn usually centers around various kinds of musical productions. The Estonia Opera and Ballet Theater's Concert Hall and other venues offer classical concerts, recitals, and choir performances almost daily during the winter season. Likewise, very good opera and ballet performances take place at the Estonia Opera and Ballet Theater's Opera House. Occasionally, musicals are performed at the Opera House or Linnahall. Compared to the price for attending such kinds of cultural programs in the U.S., cultural events in Estonia are inexpensive. During summer many special dance and music festivals are in Tallinn and around Estonia. Every 4 years the National Song Festival takes place near Tallinn. During summer, there are also outdoor rock concerts in Tallinn featuring Estonian, Western European, and U.S. rock bands.

View of Tallinn, Estonia

© Jack Fields/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Restaurants, bars, and cafes often have live music during dining hours or later in the evening, and some nightspots have dance floors. Usually local bands play rock, blues, or jazz. You can expect a small cover charge to enter when there is music.

ings are on display throughout the year in a wooded park land. Historical artifacts are exhibited at the Linnamuuseum (City Museum) and Meremuuseum (Maritime Museum), among other museums in Tallinn.

Foreign films are featured at a few of Tallinn's theaters. Occasional foreign film festivals and special showings of lesser known “art films” are held at the Kinomaja in Tallinn's Old Town. The Kosmos and Sopruse theaters show American films in English with Estonian and Russian subtitles. New movies arrive all the time. Employees can also purchase satellite TV that offers a wide array of programs.

Other activities in the Old Town include shopping for Estonian handicrafts and souvenirs, as well as eati n g a n d d r i n k i n g a t Ta l l i n n ' s increasing number of cafes and restaurants located in renovated medieval buildings. Antique shopping is also popular, and Estonia has some genuine bargains (cut glass, silver, and amber jewelry, wooden objects and furniture).

Many of Tallinn’s museums have very good art and historic collections that are worth seeing. The Eesti Kunstimuuseum (Art Museum of Estonia) exhibits Estonian art from the 19th century to 1940 and other Baltic painters' works. The Tarbekunstimuuseum (Museum of Decorative and Applied Art) exhibits 20th century crafts and decorative arts from Estonia. At Kiek in de Kok there are usually photography exhibitions. Just outside Tallinn is the Vabaohumuuseum (Open-Air Museum) where 18th- to 20th-century rural build-

International trade shows, special exhibitions, and presentations can be seen regularly at the Eesti Naitused (Estonian Exhibitions) Hall in Pirita. In 1997, exhibitions included a car show, a job fair, a trade fair for businesswomen, a travel fair, and a computer expo sition and sale. Shows are often held through the weekends and are open to the public. An important holiday in Estonia is on Jaanipaev (St. John's Day), or Midsummer's Eve. It is celebrated in every city, town, and village. Tallinn's big festival, Hanseatic 131

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Days, is in early summer and features folk music and dancing. Most other local festivals are celebrated by folk dancing and singing with performers and participants in traditional dress.

Social Activities

Life in Tallinn is safe when compared to large U.S. cities. Estonians, although generally reserved, are pro-American. If people exercise the same caution and use the same common sense that they would in any large city, they can expect to have a safe and rewarding tour or visit...

The American Chamber of Commerce is very active in Tallinn. It brings together the overgrowing American corporate community and occasionally sponsors happy hours, fund raisers, athletic activities, and other fun activities.

OTHER CITIES

The international community is quite varied, but the Americans, British, Germans, Swedes, Danes, and, most of all, the Finns, are most heavily represented. There is no central meeting place for the international community, so most activities revolve around dinner parties at home, going to concerts, the opera or theater, going to restaurants, or participating in school socials/activities. For women, the International Wo m e n ' s C l u b o f f e r s m a n y interesting activities as well as a chance to chat and socialize. The International Women's Club has a children's playgroup that meets once a week.

HIIUMAA, the second-largest island of Estonia, is located about 14 miles west of the mainland. The main town, Kärdla, offers beautiful coastline and gardens and often serves as a gateway point to the Tahkuna Peninsula. A lighthouse built in 1874 sits at the northern tip of the peninsula. At Ristimägi, the southern base of the peninsula, lies the Hill of Crosses. Handmade crosses cover the dune marking the spot where the last Swedes living here performed their last act of worship before being deported in 1781. Traditionally, first-time visitors to the island go to place a cross on the hill.

Security The most prevalent problem for residents in Tallinn is cart heft. Prudence should be exercised to park in well-lit safe areas and to use any security features available (e.g., the Club, engine cutoff switches, alarms, etc.). Personal crime is primarily nonviolent and opportunity driven. Pickpocketing and purse snatchings are not uncommon in any crowded area but are most likely to affect visitors in Old Town, Kadaka Market, and other tourist areas. The use of violence is low by U.S. standards. Credit-card fraud can be a problem, and standard precautions should be taken when using credit cards in Estonia. Generally, organized crime activity is more subdued in Estonia than elsewhere in the former Soviet 132

Union. Juvenile crime, however, is on the rise.

Käina, at the south end of Hiumaa near the shore of Käina Bay, offers a major bird reserve. The ruins of a 15th century stone church are here as well. NARVA, located in northeast Estonia on a river of the same name, less than 10 miles from the Gulf of Finland, has a population of 82,500. The city was founded by the Danes in 1223 and was a seat of the Livonian Knights and a member of the Hanseatic League. It was captured in 1558 by Ivan the Terrible of Russia, then in 1581 was taken by the Swedes. In 1700, Narva was the scene of a battle in which the Swedes, under Charles XII, successfully defended the city against the Russians, led by Peter the Great. In 1704, Narva was recaptured by Russia. During World War I, Narva was the site of many battles. In January 1919, the city was occupied by Communist forces who had also tried to

occupy, but were driven out of, Latvia and Finland. During World War II, German forces occupied the city. Today, Narva is a milling center, producing cotton, jute, wool, and flax. A hydroelectric power plant was built here in the mid-1950s. At the mouth of the Narva River on the Gulf of Finland is the city’s port and a summer resort, Narva-Jõesuu. SAAREMAA, the largest island of Estonia, consists mainly of farmland and forests. Those looking for a quiet, gentle vacation spot will enjoy the quaint features of the island, including many windmills, stone churches and fishing villages. Kuressaare, the capital of the island, is the site of a 13th century castle open for tourists. Viidumäe, about 16 miles west of Kuressaare, is the site of a beautiful botanical reserve that is home to such rare plant species such as the blunt-flowered rush, the Saaremaa yellow rattle and the white-beam. From Kuressaarre, nature buffs can take a boat to Abruka, located four miles off the southern coast of Saaremaa. A botanical-zoological reservation is open here in the summer, offering classes, horseback riding and overnight stays in a rustic farmhouse. If you happen to be on Saaremaa in the winter, you can walk to Abruka over the frozen strait. TARTU, Estonia’s second-largest city with a population of 115,500, is the site of an important university founded in 1632 by King Gustavus Adolphus II of Sweden. The university has several specialized institutes, a good library, and a botanical garden. Tartu was founded as a castle in 1030 by a Kiev prince. It was captured by the Teutonic Knights in 1224 and was a member of the Hanseatic League. Through the centuries, the city was under Russian, Polish, and Swedish authority. It became Russian in 1704. Tartu was the scene of considerable fighting during the Russian Revolution. Two important peace treaties were signed here: the first between the U.S.S.R. and Estonia in February of 1920, and the other between

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Cities of the World U.S.S.R. and Finland in October of 1920. During World War II, Tartu was occupied by the Germans and was considerably damaged.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Estonia is the northernmost of the three Baltic States. West of Estonia is the Baltic Sea, north is the Gulf of Finland, and to the east is Russia. Estonia borders Latvia on the south. The smallest of the Baltic S ta t e s, E s to n ia c o v e r s 18 , 0 8 6 square miles (45,226 square kilometers), and is roughly the size of New Hampshire and Vermont combined. Estonia is located on the Great Northern European Plain. Its topography is typically flat in coastal regions and hilly in the inland southeastern part of the country. The elevation in northwestern Estonia averages 160 feet (49 meters), but rises to 320 feet (98 meters) in the southeast. The highest point in Estonia, at 1,040 feet (317 meters) high, is a hill called Suur Munämagi in the southeast. Estonia's inland waters include 1,400 lakes and many shallow rivers. The largest lakes are Lake Peipus in eastern Esto nia on the Russian border and Lake Vðrts in south-central Estonia. Estonia's two major rivers are the Emajðgi, running east-west from Lake Was to Lake Peipus, and the Narva, that connects Lake Peipus to the Gulf of Finland. Estonia has substantial areas of bogs and wetlands, particularly in western regions. Forest and woodland, which is usually a mixture of coniferous spruce, pine, white birch, ash, maple, and aspen, cover 31% of Estonia. Off the coast of Estonia are 1,520 islands that account for nearly 8% of the country's total land area. The largest islands are Saaremaa and Hiiumaa.

The climate is northern continental, with long winters and short summers. Winter begins in October and lasts often well into April. Snow cover is common from mid- or late November to the latter half of March. Cloud cover and slate gray skies are typical between October and early February, when drier and sunnier days arrive. Mean January temperatures are 22°F-25°F (-4°C6°C). The Gulfs of Finland and Riga only freeze over during the coldest winters. In addition to being cold and snowy, winter months are characterized by shortened daylight, a result of Estonia's northern latitude (59 °N, about t h e s a m e l a t i t u d e a s Ju n e a u , Alaska). When days are at their shortest, daylight is present only between 9 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Prevailing gray skies from November through January make daylight seem even more fleeting. The sun, when it shines, hugs the horizon, thus giving the impression that it is early morning or late afternoon even at midday. It is often difficult to say exactly when winter ends and spring begins. After the Vernal Equinox (March 21), daylight increases dramatically. Most days in late March, April, and May are sunny. Daytime temperatures, however, may still remain in the 30°F-45°F range into late April, and it is not safe to put winter clothing in storage until late May. Occasional snow flurries and light snow are possible through May. Summer in Estonia is a short, magic al s eas on . Te mper atur es an d humidity are generally cooler and lower than summer in the U.S. July and August temperatures are the warmest, averaging 67°F-75°F (19°C-24°C). Mornings are cooler and the late afternoon can warm up to the low 80s. The surface water temperature in the Baltic Sea is from 60°F-78°F (16°C-26°C). The heaviest rains occur in July and August, but they are usually passi n g s h o w e r s. D u r i n g s u m m e r months, Estonia benefits from its northern latitude, with daylight

extending long into evening hours, and reappearing well before earliest risers are out of bed. From early June to mid July, there is no real “nighttime.” The short autumn can start as early as late August, and is generally cool and rainy. Autumn colors are pleasant, but not as varied or spectacular as in the northeastern U.S.

Population Estonia has some 1,475,000 inhabitants. Throughout Estonia's modern history, people from several ethnic groups have entered the country as immigrants to work in the industrial sector. The last major influx of immigrants, primarily ethnic Russians sent to live in Estonia during the Soviet era, occurred after World War II. Ethnic groups present in Estonia include 64% Estonian, 29% Russian-speaking, 3% Ukrainians, and 2% Belarussians. The urban population of Estonia is 71% of the total population, according to the census. Tallinn is the largest city with 420,470 residents, followed by Tartu with 101,901, and Narva with 75,211. Residents of Tallinn are 47.4% Estonian and 41.2% Russian. The rural population, including the islands, is 87% Estonian. There is no state religion in Estonia. Currently, major denominations include Lutheran, Russian Orthodox, Baptist, and Catholic. The small Jewish community consists mainly of native Russian speakers.

History A small nation located between East and West, Estonia has spent much of its history under foreign domination. In spite of this fact, the Estonian people have preserved their language and culture. In August 1991 the Republic of Estonia regained its independence, and, thus, began the challenging tasks of nation-building and the reorientation of Estonian public institutions toward those characteristic of a parliamentary democracy. 133

Estonia From the 13th- to the 18th-century, Estonia was ruled by the Danes, an order of German Teutonic Knights, the Poles, and the Swedes. In 1710, during the Great Northern War, Russia defeated Sweden, and the first era of Russian rule over Estonia began. Russian rule lasted until the Russian Empire collapsed with the Bolshevik Revolution at the end of World War I. Estonia declared its independence from Russia on February 24, 1918, but a war with Russia for this independence followed. Two years later, the two sides concluded the 1920 Tartu Peace Treaty in which Soviet Russia recognized the independence and sovereignty of Estonia. On the eve of World War II, Estonian sovereignty was again undermined. On August 23, 1939, Estonia's two powerful neighbor states, the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany, concl uded a mutual defense pact (the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact), which contained secret protocols dividing Eastern Europe into spheres of influence, with Estonia falling into the Soviet sphere. The same autumn, the Soviet Union demanded Estonia for military bases. Confronted with the threat of annihilation, Estonia acceded to this demand. This led to the forcible incorporation of Estonia into the Soviet Union in the summer of 1940. After the German invasion of the Soviet Union in 1941, Estonia fell under Nazi control. In 1944, the Soviets regained the country and remained in control until the August 1991 failed coup in Mosc o w. A m i d t h e c o u p , E s t o n i a declared its independence reestablished. In early September 1991, the U.S. reestablished diplomatic relations with Estonia, which had been suspended in 1940. Before Estonia's August 1991 declaration of independence, the period from 1985 to 1991 was marked by a gradual movement toward economic, social, and political independence. Two primary issues engendered public demonstrations and meetings in 1987 and 1988. The first issue was a proposed phosphorite mine which opponents argued 134

Cities of the World would pollute the ground water and air near the facility. Demonstrations against the mining caused Moscow to abandon the plan the same year. The second issue was that of the secret protocols to the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, the existence of which Soviet authorities still denied. In a dramatic public demonstration, well-known dissidents organized a public meeting on August 23, 1987, demanding the pact's publication in Estonia to prove that Estonia did not join the Soviet Union voluntarily. In 1988, several prominent Estonians began to publicly criticize Communist leaders and call for sovereign Soviet republics. The Estonian “Popular Front” was founded and organized a rally where Estonians listened to nationalist songs and political speeches in an unprecedented show of support for national independence. This rally contributed to the independence movement's mystique and resulted in its being called “The Singing Revolution.” The following autumn, the Estonian Supreme Soviet declared sovereignty. During 1989, ethnic Estonians increasingly pushed for complete independence instead of sovereignty within the U.S.S.R. They established Estonian citizens committees throughout the country. The committees planned the first public recognition of Estonia's declaration of independence for February 24, 1989. On that day, the blue, black, and white flag of the First Republic era flew once again over Estonia. In the summer of 1989, the Popular Front organized a Baltic-wide demonstration on the 50th anniversary of the signing of the MolotovRibbentrop Pact to call attention to the consequences of its secret protocols. A 400-mile-long chain of people held hands from Tallinn, Estonia, through Latvia to Vilnius, Lithuania, to demonstrate Baltic solidarity. After nearly 50 years of occupation by the Soviet Union, the Republic of Estonia regained its independence and immediately began the difficult

task of reestablishing a democratic government. A constitutional assembly was convened in the fall of 1991. By the spring of 1992, the assembly completed a draft constitution that provided for a parl i a m e n t a r y d e m o c r a c y. T h i s constitution was adopted by referendum in June 1992.

Public Institutions The Republic of Estonia is a parliamentary democracy with a prime minister as head of government and a president as head of state. The Riigikogu, Estonia's Parliament, is a unicameral body with 101 members elected by proportional representation. The first post-Soviet elections were held in Sep t e mb e r 1 99 2, a nd th e n e w Parliament, government, and President took office in October. The Members of Parliament are elected for 4 years and the President for 5. The President nominates the Prime Minister. Parliament then authorizes the nominated Prime Minister to form a government. The authorized nominee then presents the proposed government to the President, who formally submits their names for office. Parliament then votes the Prime Minister into office. The constitution establishes an independent judiciary composed of the National Court, district courts, and county and city courts. Each of Estonia's 15 provinces (Maakond) has its own provincial government.

Arts, Science, and Education Culture and language have historically been reflected in the arts. Estonian society continues its high regard for music, literature, fine arts, and traditional crafts. Science and education are also highly valued and have a long tradition in the history of modern Estonia. As Estonia prepared for its first period of independence, the first National Song Festival occurred in Tartu in 1869. Choruses sung in the

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Cities of the World Estonian language during the first song festival set the tone for future festivals that further defined the Estonian sense of national identity. The choral music tradition continues today in modern Estonia with two primary choral groups and many smaller choruses. The two nationally known choruses are the National Male Choir and the Philharmonic Chamber Choir. The National Song Festival is now held every 4 years at the outdoor Song Festival Amphitheater near Tallinn. An international choir festival is held annually in Tallinn. The modern musical tradition in Estonia includes classical and contemporary Estonian and foreign composers' music played by symphony and chamber orchestras. Estonia's two main orchestras are the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra and the Estonian Opera and Ballet Theater Orchestra, which is conducted by well-known conductor Eri Klas. These orchestras play at the Estonia Opera and Ballet Theater's Concert Hall and Opera House, respectively. The theater has an 800-seat Concert Hall and a 700-seat Opera House. Many small er ensembles per for m in Tallinn at restored medieval and modern venues around the city. Even small Estonian towns boast well-appointed concert halls. Several Estonian composers, choir directors, and conductors are known internationally. These include composers Arvo Part, Lepo Sumera, Veljo Tormis, and Erki Sven-Tuur, as well as the late choir director and composer Gustav Ernesaks. Especially cherished in Estonia, Ernesaks composed music set to national poet Lydia Koidula's poem My Fatherland Is My Love, which became the unofficial anthem of the recent independence movement. Kaljuste is another well-known choir director. Occasionally, foreign conductors and musicians collaborate with their Estonian counterparts on musical productions. thus b r i n g i n g o u t s t a n d in g mu s i c a l performances to Estonia from abroad.

Opera, dance, and dramatic theater productions are also plentiful in Tallinn and around Estonia. Operas in Tallinn are performed at the Estonian Opera and Ballet Theater's Opera House and are usually sung in Estonian. Larger dramatic productions are performed at either the Estonian Drama Theater or Russian Drama Theater. The plays are written by playwrights of various nationalities and are performed in Estonian or Russian. Recent performances have included “Hello Dolly,” “Nicholas Nickleby,” “My Fair Lady,” “Hamlet,” “A Streetcar Named Desire,” and others. Smaller theaters often stage more avantgarde works. Musicals are often performed at the Linnahall, a modern 4,200-seat theater with a separate 3,000 seat arena for sports and other events. Rock and pop concerts are becoming more frequent on the song festival grounds. In August 1997, Michael Jackson performed there. The Estonian people have a strong appreciation for literary figures who have contributed to the nation's sense of identity in literature and other writings. The literature will become more widely knows as more works are translated. One contributor to Estonia's early literary history was Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald, author of the national epic Kalevipoeg, which tell, of Estonia's mythical hero. Poet Lydia Koidula wrote poems that defined the independence movement called the “National Awakening” in the mid-1880s, Koidula's father, J.V Jannsen, helped establish the Estonian-language newspaper tradition by founding the ancestor of today's Postimees daily newspaper in 1857, Modern literary figures that have added to Estonian literature include Jaan Kross. Paul-Erik Rummo, Jaan Kaplinski, and poet Doris Kareva. Several Estonian filmmakers have gained international reputations. Two animation filmmakers, Priit Parn and Rein Raamat, have produced excellent works. Dramatic film director Leida Laius made Naerata Ometi (Smile Please) and

Varastatud Kohtumine (A Stolen Meeting), both known outside of Estonia. The Estonian national character and sense of identity have also been preserved in Estonian fine art and traditional crafts. The primary types of Estonian fine arts are painting, print-making, and sculpture. Traditional crafts include leatherwork (especially jewelry), woodwork, and knitwear. The Art Museum of Estonia has an extensive collection of paintings by Estonian and other artists from the Baltics. Modern paintings, prints, photography, glassware, and textiles are exhibited at many private galleries in Tallinn, which usually sell artists' work. Traditional and modern crafts are also sold in shops belonging to an artists' cooperative. Centers for scientific studies in Estonia include the Estonian Academy of Sciences in Tallinn, Tartu University, and the Tallinn Technical University. Wilhelm Ostwald, a scientist who received his doctorate from Tartu University, was responsible for defining physical chemistry as a separate discipline within chemistry. Ostwald was awarded the Nobel Prize in chemistry in 1909 for his research on catalysis, chemical equilibrium, and reaction velocities. Contemporary scientists are gaining worldwide attention for genetic research. The first primary schools to teach in the Estonian language were established during the period of Swedish rule, in the 1680s. Tartu University, Estonia's first university, was founded in Tartu by King Gustav Adolf of Sweden in 1632. Tartu University has highly accomplished facu l t i e s i n t h e h a r d s c i e n c e s, medicine, and Russian literature. It is also the site of several ongoing U. S. - s p o n s o r e d e d u c a t i o n a l exchanges and training programs in public administration, political science, American studies, and English-teacher training. Estonia's Binational Center for North American Studies, which offers a minor in North American Studies through an interdisciplinary program, is 135

Estonia located at the university. Fulbright scholars to Estonia are posted at University Tartu in Tallinn. The other major institutions of higher learning that educate Estonia's highly literate and skilled society include the Tallinn Technical University, the Tallinn Pedagogical University, the Tallinn Music Academy, the Tallinn Art University, and the Estonian Agricultural University in Tartu. Several private schools, including the prestigious Humanities Institute, and business colleges including Concordia International University, The Estonian Business School, and others, have emerged in Tallinn. Estonia has many libraries for research and general reading purp o s e s. T h e n e w l y c o n s t r u c t e d National Library opened its 4.2 million volume collection to the public in 1993. The Library of the Estonian Academy of Sciences was established in 1947 and currently holds a 3.5 million-volume collection. This collection emphasizes materials for research in the hard and social sciences. It includes the oldest books published in Tallinn (1631) and Tartu (1634) in a special Baltic collection, as well as a substantial collection of books about Estonia published in foreign languages and many reference materials for scholars. The Academy's library has exchange relationships with libraries in 38 countries. The Tartu University and Tallinn Technical University libraries also have large research collections.

Commerce and Industry Estonia is evolving rapidly to meet the challenges it faces as a country with a liberal, open market economy. Change is the watchword for all aspects of the Estonian economy, from market orientation and trading partners to defining the private sector and reforming financial policies. T r a d i t i o n a l l y, E s t o n i a h a d a prosperous agrarian-based economy, but it was also a crossroads for 136

Cities of the World trade goods from the East and West. All of Estonia's major cities and towns were members of the Hanseatic League during the 13th century. Guildhouses in each city controlled trade in agricultural goods and artisanship. Swedish and Danish rulers also benefited from Estonia's agrarian economy and excellent geographic position for trade. In later years Estonia was industrialized by Imperial Russia. During the first period of Estonian independence from 1918 to 1940, the Estonian economy grew rapidly. By 1940, its standard of living was comparable to Finland. After annexation by the Soviet Union, its economy was fully controlled by central planners in Moscow. After World War II, Estonia's industrial sector surpassed the agrarian sector in terms of national output. Economic planners focused on developing Estonia's extensive oilshale resource as a means to produce energy for domestic consumption and export to other Soviet Union republics. The planners also stressed development of industrial uses for phosphorite, Estonia's second most important natural resource. Meanwhile, in other economic sectors, there was large-scale nationalization of the banking and transportation systems, and 97% of the farms were collectivized by 1952.

bachev's introduction of “perestroika.” In 1987, Edgar Savisaar and several other prominent Estonians publicly suggested that Estonia be designated an autonomous economic zone under a plan called “ I s e m a j a n d a v E e s t i ( I M E ) .” Although IME did not materialize, Savisaar's suggestion began a public debate on Estonia's autonomous economic and political future. In December 1989, banking legislation called for monetary reform and for the Bank of Estonia to prepare for issuing a new national currency. However, reform-minded economists held back, realizing in the late 1980s that substantive political changes were necessary before any meaningful economic reforms could happen. With the 1991 return of independence came a new social, political, and economic era for the Republic of Estonia. Traditionally, Estonian industrial producers depended on raw materials from the former Soviet republics and Eastern Europe, and likewise finished products were sent to those republics and countries. This trend began to change in 1990 and has continued, so that Estonia has shifted its trade orientation toward Nordic countries a n d o t h e r We s t e r n E u r o p e a n nations. At the same time, Estonia is pursuing widespread economic reform.

The push toward industrialization continued; and, thus, the proportion of agrarian to industrial sector workers decreased throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Also, the number of Russians coming to Estonia to work in industry steadily increased during this period and into the 1980s. As one of the Soviet Union's most industrialized republics, with high employment levels and a skilled workforce, the standard of living in Estonia was higher than in the other republics.

Monetary reform proposed in 1989 became a reality on June 20, 1992, when Estonia was the first of the former Soviet republics to issue its own currency. The Estonian “kroon” (EEK) was introduced with the full backing of gold and foreign exchange reserves and was pegged to the Deutsche Mark (at EEK8=DM1) with a 3% fluctuation rate. The new currency was a source of national pride from the day it was introduced and has proven to be a successful and stabilizing influence on the economy.

Starting in the 1970s, there was a general sense of economic stagnation that lasted until 1987, when a loosening of the Estonian economy seemed within reach with Gor-

In addition to introducing the new currency, Estonia also implemented price reforms. In January 1992, major price reform legislation was enacted. Prices of more than 90% of

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Cities of the World Estonia's goods and services are no longer controlled. In the 1980s, subsidies represented 13% of Estonia's gross domestic product (GDP), but as early as 1991, they represented only 2.2% of GDP However, the cut in price subsidies hurt the average Estonian consumer, and consumers' purchasing power declined by 70% between 1989 and the end of 1992. Although the inflation rate rose dramatically just after price controls were lifted, it stabilized during 1992 and averaged about 2% a month in 1993. The economy appeared to bottom out in early 1993, and purchasing power has begun to increase modestly. The annual 1996 inflation rate decreased to 15%. Between January and June 1997, Estonia's total exports were $1.3 billion and imports totaled $1.8 billion. The republic's major trading partners are Finland, which accounts for 32% of its exports and 21% of its imports, Russia for 16% of its exports and 18% of its imports, and Sweden for 9% of its exports and 11% of its imports. Estonia's major export goods are textiles/clothes, machinery/equipment, food, wood/wood products, and chemicals. The major import goods include machinery/ equipment, minerals, vehicles, textiles/ clothes, and food. Estonia has liberalized its import restrictions so that duties are levied only on tobacco products, alcohol, and luxury items (including automobiles). All other import items are duty free. Export licenses are only required for a handful of natural resources, such as oil shale. The lack of nontariff barriers, the favorable exchange rate of the Estonian currency, and Estonia's positive attitude toward free trade contribute to the republic's reputation as a respected trading nation. Privatization and development of the private sector represents a significant area of reform in Estonia. The primary obstacle to privatization continues to be issues surrounding property law. Many joint ventures with Estonian and Nordic partners have established themselves in Estonia since indepen-

dence. The most successful ventures are in wholesale and retail trade, industry, the service sector, construction, food service, and hotels. A strong banking sector has developed rapidly in Estonia since independence. Un like other newly independent countries in the region, Estonia did not provide state support to unhealthy or unstable financial institutions. The result of this sink-or-swim strategy was a significant number of bank failures and mergers of smaller banks, followed by the emergence of several large, stable banks, offering the full range of Western banking services. The largest bank in the Baltics is Estonia's Hansapank. With the emergence of easier mortgage credit in 1997, banking in Estonia is now comparable to banking in Western Europe or the U.S. Estonia has a healthy, thriving stock market. In mid-July 1997, prices of bluechip shares jumped from between 10% and 20% on average, spurred in part by the announcement that Estonia would be asked to start negotiations on the EU membership. Until October 1997, share prices of several leading stocks rose by 1,000% or more. In the wake of economic turmoil in Asia, there have been several sharp downturns in the market. However, these drops have been viewed more as needed “corrections” which have removed many inexperienced, marginal, and speculative investors from the market. Estonians pay personal and corporate income, profit, and valueadded taxes. The highest personal income bracket is 33%; corporate tax stands at 36%; and the valueadded tax is 18% on services and imported goods. Employers pay social taxes equal to 33% of an employee's salary. These social taxes include a 20% tax for social security and a 13% tax for the medical insurance fund. Compliance with local tax law is high compared with other newly independent countries in the region. By law, the Estonian Government must have a balanced budget. Wo r k e r s i n E s t o n i a h a v e t h e constitutionally guaranteed right to

join a union or employee association. They can also participate in collective bargaining. In April 1990, the Estonian Trade Union (EAKL), the largest employee organization, replaced the Labor Confederation from the Soviet period. Estonia joined the International Labor Organization in January 1992. Estonia became a member of the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development in December 1991, a member of the International Monetary Fund in May 1992, and a member of the World Bank in June of the same year. Estonia has received substantial monetary assistance from the IMF, the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development, the European Union (EU), and from individual countries including Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, and Norway. In 1997, Estonia received the green light by the EU to start negotiations for membership. Many observers noted that the main reason was Estonia's strong well-cultivated reputation for reform. Full membership in the EU will probably be granted in the middle of the next decade. To say that the business environment has changed for the better in the last 5 years is an understatement. Although business-to-customer services have improved, some remnants of Soviet-era business practices (mainly brusque or indifferent service) remain. However, compared to elsewhere in the former Soviet bloc, doing business in Estonia is generally a positive, pleasant experience. The U.S. aided Estonia significantly in its drive to develop a free market economy. Between 1991 and 1996, U.S. assistance to Estonia, administered through the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID) program, concentrated on three main areas: economic reform and privatization; democratic pluralism and local government; and environmental protection and health. In September 1996, Estonia became the first country in central and Eastern Europe to successfully 137

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“graduate” from USAID assistance. The U.S. Peace Corps, in Estonia since 1992, still sends volunteers to teach English and to assist with small business development. A variety of U.S. technical advisers from private and public sectors have played a central role in helping Estonia establish its legal framework for reform. The fields in which U.S. technical advisers worked most extensively include privatization, constitutional and judicial reform, energy efficiency, banking, education, local government reform, national and local elections, municipal administration, taxation, national and local budget systems, cooperatives, agricultural production and agribusiness, small business development, bankruptcy issues, and environmental reform.

Transportation Automobiles All major car dealers are represented in Tallinn. Dealerships are able to sell, service, and obtain spare parts for American, Japanese, and Western European cars and minivans. Any model can be ordered by the dealer and shipped to Tallinn. European cars are generally cheaper than they would be in the U.S. Dealership services in Tallinn are similar to those in the U.S. Most dealerships have maintenance facilities, and inde pe nden t garage repairs are of good quality. Labor, especially at independent garages, is relatively inexpensive. Spare parts for American cars can be expensive and occasionally must be special ordered. Service and parts are readily available at reasonable prices for Russian and European cars. Quality auto bodywork for all cars is available in Tallinn. Unleaded gas is readily available at modern, clean service stations. Many of these have convenience shops that sell Western auto-related items at prices similar to, or somewhat higher than, those in the U.S. 138

Estonia has the highest rate of car o w n e r s h i p g r o w t h i n E u r o p e. Correspondingly, many new drivers are on the road. This, combined with the fact that there are still many older Soviet cars on the road, has meant a substantial increase in traffic (similar now to a major U.S. metropolitan area) and a large number of fender-benders. Aggressive driving is the norm. The speed limit on open roads is 90 km /h (5 5 mph), b ut 50 km /h (30mph) in residential areas. Car headlights must be on at all times, year round. The driver and front seat passenger must wear seat belts. Police enforce and most drivers take driving-under-the-influence-of-alcohol laws seriously. Car seats for babies and small children are mandatory and available locally. A first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, and safety reflectors in case of breakdown are mandatory. Winter tires, available locally at prices similar to or slightly lower than in the U.S., are mandatory between December and March. Studded snow tires are allowable and recommended. Estonia is a left-hand-drive country. The Estonian Government requires that all drivers carry third-partyliability car insurance. Stiff fines are imposed on those who do not comply with this law. Third-partyliability insurance that is considered valid under Estonian law may be purchased in Estonia. However, drivers should note that valid third-party-liability coverage in Estonia may not be valid in neighboring countries, and therefore supplemental insurance must be purchased for travel to the neighboring countries. Some American insurers, such as Clements, will provide coverage that satisfies local requirements. Drivers intending car travel (via ferry) to Sweden or Finland should ensure that their liability insurance provides them with a green international insurance card. State and private car insurance policies in Estonia offer minimal coverage compared to that in the U.S. They generally cover only damage to the driver's car and nominal

personal injury coverage. The local prevailing practice is that damages to another driver's car are covered out-of-pocket, but it can be difficult to get any settlement from a delinquent driver. Estonia's main roads are adequate for daytime, fair-weather driving, but night driving and winter driving can be difficult. Roads outside Tallinn are not lighted and often poorly marked. Road construction is not well marked. During winter months, when roads are sanded and plowed sporadically or, more often, not at all. On the other hand, summer driving in Estonia, and throughout the Baltic States, can be pleasant. The almost endless daylight, the reasonable quality of most roads (when not wet, dark, or icy), the relatively light traffic outside the cities, and the increasing availability of tourist and roadside services will do much to counter the cabin fever that results from the lack of winter mobility. Excellent road maps are readily available in Tallinn for all of Estonia and the other Baltic countries.

Local Public transportation in the Tallinn area is generally convenient and reliable. All forms of public transportation are more crowded than in the U.S. One can travel easily, if not always comfortably, around the city and to the outskirts of Tallinn using the extensive public transportation system. Tallinn has many taxis, all of which must use a meter. Taxis generally fall into two categories: those from larger taxi companies with clean, modern fleets (Tulika and several others), and those from smaller firms or independents using Soviet, Russian, and older Western cars. You can either get a taxi at a taxi stand or request one by phone, for an extra fee. If they do not do so immediately, remind drivers to turn on their meters. Taxi rates are generally cheaper than in Washington, D.C. Some modern taxi companies take credit cards. Passengers usu-

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Cities of the World ally tip the driver a small amount (5%-10%), but tipping is not considered mandatory. Overall, using taxis in Tallinn is easier and more pleasant than in most U.S. cities.

Regional There is regular intercity travel from Tallinn to other points in Estonia, the other two Baltic capitals, points in Russia and other republics of the former Soviet Union, and major Western European cities. Bus travel within and beyond Estonia is extensive. You can take a bus to all of Estonia's major cities and towns from Tallinn and can at least make a connection to many smaller towns not directly serviced by buses from Tallinn. You can also travel by bus and ferry to Estonia's larger islands. Buses travel regularly to R i g a a n d V i l n i u s, a s w e l l a s Klaipeda, St. Petersburg, Kaliningrad, and cities in Germany. Bus service is faster and usually more convenient than train travel. Many buses on the longer routes meet Western standards (i.e., with bathroom and small TV), but older buses are often used on routes within Estonia. Bus travel is cheap, compared with that in the U.S. Trains from Tallinn service all major regional cities, including Narva and Tartu in Estonia and the following cities in other countries: St. Petersbu rg, Mos cow, Rig a, Vilnius, Minsk, and Warsaw. For longer trips, an overnight sleeper car provides both for safety and comfort. Overnight train is a good way to travel to Moscow or St. Petersburg, but is substantially slower than the bus to Riga and Vilnius. Tallinn offers frequent flights to cities in Western Europe and the former Soviet Union. Finnair flies daily to Helsinki and SAS flies to both Copenhagen and Stockholm. In addition, there is regular, nonstop, service to Riga, Vilnius, Hamburg, Amsterdam, London, Vienna, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev, and Minsk.

There is regular ferry service between Helsinki and Tallinn (several times daily) and Stockholm and Tallinn (daily), as well as hydrofoil service between Helsinki and Tallinn from April through October. Ferries can carry motor vehicles, but hydrofoils are for passengers only. All ferries have restaurants, bars, shops, and other diversions. Passage by ferry to Helsinki takes about 3½ hours; the hydrofoil takes 1½ hours. Although the hydrofoil is faster, it is more expensive, and sometimes stormy weather and/or rough seas cancel trips. The trip from Tallinn to Helsinki by ferry is cheaper than flying and then taking a taxi or bus into the Finnish capital. The ferry to Stockholm sails from Tallinn every second day and takes 14½ hours. Although this is the most direct ferry route between Tallinn and Stockholm, it is also possible and less expensive to sail to Stockholm via Helsinki. As noted above, car travel around Estonia and the Baltics, or to cities in the Nordic countries, Russia, and Eastern Europe, is feasible. Avis, Hertz, National (Eurorent), and other Western and local rental car firms have outlets in Tallinn and the other Baltic capitals, with rates somewhat higher than in the U.S. Most borders you would cross in the region cause no problem, except the border between Lithuania and Poland and the border between Estonia and Russia, where delays are frequent.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Currently, Estonia has three types of telephone systems, including an analog system, a digital system, and several cellular systems. Tallinn has upgraded 90% of the city's telephone system to digital. The rest of the country is undergoing gradual digital upgrades. Phone service in the capital is good but can be sporadic outside Tallinn. Tallinn residents can dial international calls directly from their residential telephones or book them

through the operator. It is slightly cheaper to call the U.S. from Estonia than vice versa. Calls to Eastern and Western European countries from Estonia are cheaper than calling those countries from the U.S. Local digital calls have per-call charges, but long-distance and international-call charges are the same as those for the older system. Many individuals and businesses use cellular systems for phone calls and fax machine transmissions. Cellular systems are more expensive than the other systems for local and long-distance calls. International calls made with cellular phones currently cost 30% more than those made with digital systems. Computer usage in Estonia is widespread. The entire range of computer software and hardware is available locally at reasonable prices. Internet hookups are reasonably priced and easy to arrange. Microlink, Gateway, and several other familiar computer firms are present in Tallinn. All major computer companies and computer stores have knowledgeable staff people, most of whom speak at least some English. As occasional fluctuations in electrical voltage occur, bring surge protectors for all computer equipment.

Mail The international mail system for letters and packages to and from Estonia is reliable. No difficulties concerning customs, pilferage, or damage to sent or received items has been reported. Currently, mailing letters and packages from Estonia costs more than from the U.S. Many international courier services can send small packets and larger boxes to and from Tallinn including Federal Express, DHL, and UPS. Courier firms charge prices comparable to those in the U.S. for the same service. It usually takes smaller packets 3-5 days to/from the U.S. You can use most major credit cards for the fee. 139

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Several radio stations broadcast on AM and FM in Estonia. The stateoperated Eesti Raadio (Estonian Radio) airs the BBC World Service in English from noon to 5 pin daily. In Tallinn, Raadio KuKu was the first independent station; it has primarily a music format that includes an eclectic mix of American rock, jazz, blues, and country music, as well as European contemporary popular and classical music. Raadio Tallinn, another independent station, broadcasts music and news in Russian. Love Radio plays easy-listening pop with hits from the 1970s and 1980s and has news in English every hour. Since 1991, the number of independent stations on AM and FM has increased, and this trend is expected to continue. Shortwave reception in Tallinn is good and includes broadcasts in various languages. From Tallinn you can watch Eesti Televisioon (Estonian Television), three independent Estonian stations, one Russian channel, and four Finnish channels. Satellite dishes, increasingly popular in Estonia, enable you to receive more programming from abroad. Full satellitedish receiving equipment sets and installation services are available in Ta l l i n n a t r e a s o n a b l e p r i c e s. English-language programs and movies are subtitled rather than dubbed on most channels. A TV should be able to receive both SECAM and PAL systems in Estonia, because Finnish and Western European channels require SECAM and Estonian and Russian channels use PAL. Multisystem TV's, recommended for local viewing, are available in Tallinn. Selection is limited and they can be expensive. To receive Finnish channels you will need a special antenna. Bring a multisystem VCR to watch videos. A limited selection of VCR's are available in Tallinn at generally higher than U.S. prices.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals American and European newspapers and magazines are increas140

ingly available in Tallinn at the major hotels and some other shops. You can buy The Herald Tribune, USA Today, Time, and Newsweek regularly, but the newspapers are usually a day old. Other popular American and English-language magazines (primarily fashion and women's magazines) are sold in Tallinn, but newsstand prices are higher here. Major newspapers and magazines in German and French are also available. Several English-language publications written and published in the Baltics are sold regularly in Estonia. The City Paper is a bimonthly magazine and travel guide with interesting articles about current issues and politics in Estonia. The Baltic Times, a weekly newspaper published in Riga, covers the current events of the three Baltic States. Tallinn This Week, a booklet published six times a year, is a guide to Tallinn's restaurants, shopping, cafes, nightlife, and cultural events. Several Estonian-language papers and magazines also include special English pages or columns.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Health care facilities in Estonia are improving, but still fall somewhat below the Western standard. Most health care providers, however, are well-trained professionals and many are conversant in English.

Community Health Food-handling procedures, although improving, are not yet entirely reliable here. Some food bought at older markets and the (rapidly disappearing) Soviet-style food stores may be poorly refrigerated. Although the public water supply in Tallinn is chlorinated, water treatment facilities and distribution pipes are often in disrepair. Therefore, the water supply could be contaminated. High-quality local and imported bottled water is available in all food shops and convenience stores.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Customs, Duties, and Passage A passport is required. Tourists and business travelers may stay in Estonia for up to 90 days without a visa. U.S. citizens who wish to work in Estonia or remain longer than 90 days must obtain a visa or residence permit. For further information concerning entry requirements and residency permits, please contact the Estonian Embassy, 2131 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C 20008, telephone (202) 5880101, or the Consulate General of Estonia in New York City at telephone (212) 883-0636. Also, please see the Estonian Embassy's Internet home page at http:// www.estemb.org. Customs restrictions on Estonian cultural artifacts exported from Estonia by anyone require a 100% duty on the purchase price of the item. Special permits are also required and may be obtained from the Cultural Values Export Board. U.S. citizens living in or visiting Estonia are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy and obtain updated informatio n on travel and security within Estonia. The U.S Embassy in Tallinn is located at Kentmanni 20, telephone (372) 668-8100; fax (372) 668-8267; emergency cell phone (011)(372)509-2129, if dialed from the U.S., and 0-509-2129 if dialed from within Estonia. The Embassy's home page on the Internet is at http://www.usemb.ee.

Pets The pet should have a health certificate which is less than 10 days old an d a d o c um e n t e d r ab i e s v a c cination given more than 30 days, but less than 1 year, before arrival in Estonia. Dogs should also have recent distemper and parvovirus shot s. There is no quarantine restri ction for househ old pets brought to Estonia.

Estonia

Cities of the World Competent veterinarians, many of whom speak English, practice in Tallinn. Most veterinarians will commonly obtain pet vaccines and medicines in Finland or elsewhere in Europe. Veterinarians often make house calls to vaccinate and care for sick pets. Veterinarians' fees in Estonia are low by U.S. standards. Although pet medical care is inexpensive, pet food is more expensive compared to Washington, D.C., prices.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The only currency that can be used legally in Estonia is the Estonian kroon (EEK). The kroon was introduced as Estonia's national currency in June 1992, nearly a year after Estonian independence. It is backed by gold and foreign currency reserves and is fully convertible. The current exchange rate is about 15.9 EEK=U. S. $1. The value of the kroon is pegged to the value of the Deutsche Mark at EEK8/DM1 with a fluctuation rate of 3%. Estonia's currency is issued in notes of the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 500. The coins include 5-, 10-, 20- and 50-cent coins. Credit cards are now widely accepted in Estonia. Traveler's checks are also accepted by many major hotels and restaurants. Travelers checks may be cashed for kroons in any bank in Tallinn. Currency may be exchanged for kroons at most banks, hotels, and many foreign exchange counters around Tallinn and other parts of Estonia. The kroon is fully convertible and therefore can be exchanged for foreign currency. However, except for those arriving via Finland, it may be difficult or impossible to obtain kroons before arrival.

Credit cards can be used at the major hotels and department stores and most restaurants throughout Estonia. The most common cards u s e d i n Ta l l i n n a r e A m e r i c a n Express, Visa, and Mastercard (Eurocard). It is possible to get a cash advance in kroons with a major credit card. Advances are available for a commission fee to the bank. A value-added tax (VAT) of 18% is placed on goods imported into Estonia and services pe rformed in Estonia. The weight and measurement system in Estonia is the metric system.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Feb. 24 . . . . . . . . . Estonian Independence Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Sunday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . May Day May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday/ Pentecost* June 23 . . . . . . . . . Victory Day June 24 . . . . . . . . . Midsummer Aug. 20 . . . . . . . . . Day of Restoration of Independence Dec.25 . . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of material published on this country:

Clemens, Walter Jr. Baltic Independence and Russian Empire. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1991. Hiden, John and Patrick Salmon. The Baltic Nations and Europe: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in the Twentieth Century. New York: Longman, Inc., 1991. Jackson, Hampden J. Estonia. Second Edition. London: George Allen and Unwin Ltd., 1948. Laar, Mart. War in the Woods: Estonia's Struggle for Survival 19441956. Washington, D.C.: The Compass Press, 1992. Lieven, Anatol. The Baltic Revolution. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1991. Loeber, Dietrich Andre, B. Stanley Vardys, and Laurence PA. Kitching, eds. Regional Identity Under Soviet Rule: The Case of the Baltic States. Hackettstown, N.J.: Association for the Advancement of Baltic Studies, 1990. Misiunas, Romuald J. and Rein Taagepera. The Baltic States: Years of Dependence 1940-1980. Berkeley and Los Angeles:University of California Press, 1983. Raun, Toivo U. Estonia and the Estonians. Second Edition. Stanford, California: Hoover Institution Press, 1991. Taagepera, Rein. Estonia: Return to Independence. Boulder, Colorado: Westview Press, 1992. von Rauch, Georg. The Baltic States: Years of Independence 1917-1940. Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1974.

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Helsinki, Finland

FINLAND Republic of Finland

Major Cities: Helsinki, Tampere, Turku Other Cities: Espoo, Jyväskylä, Kotka, Kuopio, Lahti, Oulu, Pori, Vaasa, Vantaa

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated February 1992. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION FINLAND is a modern, progressive, Scandinavian country, rich in contrast between city and wilderness. The character of its people has been forged by the severity of life in this northern corner of Europe, and the challenge of existing between contending powers has produced a vigorous individualism and inspired a national culture. Migrant groups from the south and southwest settled the region that is now Finland in the eighth century, driving the indigenous Lapps northward toward the Arctic Circle. Eventually Swedes moved onto the land and, in 1155, introduced Christianity. Sweden controlled Finland for hundreds of years until forced to

cede it, as a grand duchy, to Russia in the early part of the 19th century. A spirit of nationalism grew until, in the chaos of the Russian Revolution, Finland was created. During World War II, the nation fought with Germany against the Soviet Union and, after tragic human and geographical losses and eventual reparation payments, signed an agreement of cooperation and friendship with its former ruling power. Finland’s official policy of neutrality and nonalignment has led to the establishment of relations with other countries regardless of their political systems.

MAJOR CITIES Helsinki Helsinki, the capital and principal city, is a Baltic port on Finland’s southern coast with an estimated population of 551,000. It lies north of such cities as Juneau, Alaska, and Churchill, Canada, and is the second most northerly capital in the world, after Iceland’s Reykjavík. Helsinki is a modern city, yet it has areas which give a genuine and comprehensive picture of the atmosphere and architecture of the past.

The city was founded in 1550 by the Swedish king, Gustav Vasa. Great fires destroyed the old wooden Helsinki many times, but it was always rebuilt. The massive walls of the Suomenlinna Island fortress remain from the 18th century. Helsinki became Finland’s capital in 1812. Many of its historically interesting sights date from the beginning of the 19th century, when the administrative center was built around Senate Square. The Cathedral of St. Nicholas, the National University, and Government Palace, for example, are among the finest of its architectural achievements. It has been said of the Helsinki of the Empire period that it was the last European city designed as an entity and created as a work of art. Historic Senate Square is one of the most remarkable achievements of neoclassicism at its height; many of its buildings reflect the genius of architect Carl Engel. Helsinki today has a modern look, with some buildings designed by internationally known contemporary Finnish architects Eliel Saarinen and Alvar Aalto. In planning new areas and developing old ones, the aim has been to make the city a balanced whole with several regional centers, each with its own schools, sports fields, libraries, and shopping centers. The ideal is to combine the advantages of urban 143

Finland living with those of rural life. Approximately 500,000 people reside in the city, which is the administrative, cultural, commercial, and industrial center of Finland. Including the suburbs of Espoo, Vantaa, and others, the population of Greater Helsinki was over one million in 1995. Helsinki, whose name in Swedish (one of the two official languages) is Helsingsfors, has many points of interest. Among the most popular are the harbor area and Market Square, where the Havis Amanda fountain symbolizes Helsinki rising out of the waves. Other attractions include the Olympic Stadium (site of the 1952 Summer Games), the Sibelius monument, the “Church in the Rock,” Finlandia Hall, City Museum, National Museum, and Seurasaari Island. Helsinki offers a wide and interesting variety of cultural activities, recreation, entertainment, and shopping, and it enjoys an unusually high standard of living.

Schools for Foreigners The International School of Helsinki, based on American and British standards, offers an education from kindergarten through tenth grade. Several different nationalities are represented both in the student body and on the school board. The full-time staff consists of American and British teachers. The school has initiated a joint accreditation process with the New England Association of Schools and the European Council of International Schools. International School comprises one wing of an established Finnish school, and can take advantage of some of the Finnish teachers for physical education and special activities. The English School, Catholic-affiliated, receives support from the Finnish Government since it is primarily intended for Finnish students who wish to learn and maintain English. Religious studies are not part of the curriculum. 144

Cities of the World Classes range from kindergarten through grade 10. A small, private school, L’École Française d’Helsinki, is run by the Fr e n c h E m b a s s y. S ch o o l i n g i s assured for all ages, including kindergarten, and follows the studies prescribed by the French Ministry of Education. The staff is composed of French teachers provided by the sponsoring government or recruited locally. The German School, long established in Helsinki, offers classes from kindergarten through high school, leading to a choice of either a German or Finnish diploma. The school is German- oriented, and has the reputation of providing a fine education. The teachers are German and Finnish; instruction is entirely in German. Books and materials are up-to-date and attractively presented. The school is part of the Finnish system, with similar semesters, holidays, and regulations. The staff welcomes children with no knowledge of German in the first few grades, but discourages those at higher levels because of the difficulty of catching up to classmates in the language.

Special Opportunities The University of Helsinki is the largest university in the Nordic area. Courses in the English department may be taken at the university, but language restrictions in other departments make it difficult for most students to carry a full academic load. The University of Helsinki offers courses in Finnish and Swedish for foreigners. Classes are taught at all levels of proficiency, during the day and after working hours. Special educational opportunities are available for children with learning disabilities or physical handicaps, but all instruction is either in Finnish or Swedish.

Recreation Finland first rose to prominence in sports at the 1912 Olympics, where it took first place in wrestling and

second place in track and field. In succeeding years, the country has become famous for long-distance running, ski jumping, speed skating, and target shooting. Sports unique to Finland are bandy, a form of ice hockey, and pesapallo, a game vaguely resembling American baseball. Soccer, hockey, and basketball are popular spectator sports. From the first of June until late August, daylight hours are long and outdoor activities such as boating, sailing, bathing, swimming, hiking, picnicking, and motor trips may be enjoyed in the immediate vicinity of Helsinki. The time for golf and outdoor tennis is relatively short. Helsinki has four golf courses (two of which have 18 holes) and a few excellent outdoor clay tennis courts, as well as several indoor year-round tennis courts. It is not easy to obtain golf club memberships, and tennis courts usually must be booked in advance and, sometimes, at inconvenient hours. Squash is also popular; court time is booked on a half-hour basis. Cycling possibilities are good in the Helsinki suburbs during the warmer months. Trails for jogging and walking abound. Boating begins in May/ June and extends into September. Swimming and sunbathing at the several municipal beaches and in outside pools are popular for only about two months in the summer, but are possible year round at several indoor pools. Winter sports include skiing and s k a t i n g. E x c e l l e n t t r a i l s f o r cross-country skiing are available in and around the city, and many of these are lighted for evening use. Several smaller towns within a few hours’ ride offer good weekend skiing; spring skiing trips to Lapland are popular. Downhill skiing is possible, but facilities are limited. Although there are several small hills near Helsinki, the better locations are farther north. The city has many good outdoor skating rinks and some indoor rinks. Figure skating lessons are available.

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Lutheran Cathedral and square in Helsinki

There are a number of horseback riding schools in the capital and its immediate vicinity. Helsinki also has one indoor riding hall. Salmon fishing is found in northern Lapland. Ice fishing is quite popular throughout Finland during the long winter months. Game hunting is possible, but on a limited basis. The sauna, a national institution in Finland, has existed for a thousand years. Finns normally indulge in a sauna once a week, and it is a custom that most Americans quickly learn to enjoy. Saunas are particularly enjoyable after physical exercise, especially cross-country skiing, and as a means of socializing, although mixed saunas are not customary. The purpose of a sauna is to completely cleanse the body and soul by being subjected to great changes of

temperatures. After the heat of the sauna, there is either a shower or a swim in a pool, a lake, or the sea. The bravest participants roll in winter snow or plunge through a hole in the ice. After the sauna, a cold beer or soda before a warm fireplace is a necessary thirst quencher. Most Finnish apartment buildings and houses have saunas, some with pools. Summer houses, although quite modest, also have saunas, usually on a lake or the sea.

with space for cars is a popular way to get to Rovaniemi, a transit point to the tourist and resort areas of Pallastunturi, Kilpisjarvi, and Inari farther north. The traveler can also drive north into Norway and view the fjords. Lapland is especially popular in early April, when the days are longer and skiing is excellent; for midsummer’s night to view the fires and festivities; and in September, when the leaves change colors.

Outdoor recreation and touring opportunities are plentiful, particularly in Lapland and the lake district. Lapland—the land of the midnight sun, northern lights, and reindeer—is Finland’s northernmost province. The principal towns are Rovaniemi, the capital, and Kemi, both accessible by air (two hours) and rail (nine hours), and about 500 miles (800 kilometers) from Helsinki. The overnight train

The lake district, comprising most of southeast central Finland, provides excellent opportunities for scenic travel by car and steamer ship. A wood-burning steamer offers an unusually scenic 12-hour trip from Savonlinna to Kuopio, with its colorful market and interesting Orthodox Church museum. The 15th-century Olavinlinna Castle, a compact towering fortress built on an island near Savonlinna, is the 145

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site of an international open-air opera festival each July. Day trips to Turku, Hanko, and Porvoo are popular. Turku, Finland’s oldest city and its capital until 1812, is two-and-a-half hours west of Helsinki by car. Hanko, a coastal city two hours west of Helsinki, is one of the best Finnish saltwater bathing resorts during July and August. At this time, yachting regattas and tennis matches are held. En route to Hanko, many travelers stop at Tammisaari, a charming seaside town with narrow lanes bordered by Empire-style wooden houses. Porvoo is an idyllic old coastal town one hour east of Helsinki by car. It was t h e h o m e o f Jo h a n L u d v i g Runeberg, the national poet of Finland, and is the site of an ancient granite cathedral. A visit or business assignment to Helsinki provides excellent opportunities to travel to Sweden and Russia. Two shipping lines have overnight service between Stockholm and Helsinki. During summer, ships also travel to Tallinn (Estonia) and Travemünde (Germany). Daily flights are available on Finnair or Aeroflot, and daily trains serve St. Petersburg and Moscow. All excursions to Russia require a Russian visa. Since accommodations must be booked before a visa is issued, it is best to have a travel agent in Helsinki handle arrangements. Visa processing takes from 10 days to two weeks.

Entertainment Since its designation as the nation’s capital in 1812, Helsinki has developed into a cultural center. It is the home of many of Finland’s most important museums. The largest of these is the National Museum, with its extensive prehistoric, historic, and ethnographic collections. The large Art Museum of the Athenaeum, located across the street from the railroad station, contains Finnish art from the 18th century to the present, and foreign works of art. Occasionally, large foreign exhibits are shown here. The Art Collections of the City of Helsinki and the Amos Anderson Museum of 146

Art are also noted institutions which often have exhibitions in addition to their regular collections. Many good movie theaters in the city and suburbs offer the latest American, British, Italian, French, German, and other foreign films in their original versions, as well as locally produced films in Finnish. Strict regulations prevent children from attending films featuring violence, whether or not the children are accompanied by parents. Helsinki has two permanent symphony orchestras, the Helsinki Philharmonic and the Radio Symphony. It also is home to the National Opera, with both opera and ballet c o m p a n i e s, a n d t h e g o v e r n ment-sponsored National Theater. Concerts and recitals are performed in the renowned Finlandia Hall, the Taivallahti Church, Sibelius Academy, and the House of Nobility, among others, providing a rich and varied musical life. During summer, Finnish and international artists and musicians are featured at special performances throughout the country. These events include the Kuopio Dance and Music Festival in June, the Jyväskylä Arts Festival, the Savonlinna Opera Festival, the Pori Jazz Festival, the Turku Music Festival, the Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival, the Lahti International Organ Festival, the Tampere Summer Theater, and the Helsinki Festival. Many Helsinki residents leave for the country in midsummer, and much of the city’s cultural life closes down; however, restaurants and cinemas remain open. The Finnish-American Society (Helsinki chapter) is a cultural and social organization linked to the League of Finnish-American Societies. All Americans are eligible to join for a nominal membership fee. Other clubs include the American Women’s Club, the Finnish-American Chamber of Commerce, the Club of ‘32, and Rotary, Lions, consular, and diplomatic associations.

Special Note In Finland, both men and women shake hands on meeting one another. Children also shake hands, and should not be excluded from this courtesy. Punctuality is a must, and guests are expected to arrive within five minutes of the stated arrival time for a dinner or other party. When visiting a Finnish home, it is the custom to take flowers to the hostess, or to send flowers preceding or following the visit. Flowers are usually given to the hostess unwrapped and in uneven numbers. In lieu of flowers, other small gifts may be presented. At a dinner party, it is customary to make a welcoming speech as soon as the first course is served and all the wine glasses filled. No one touches his or her glass until this ritual has been performed. The honored guest makes a toast and thanks the host and hostess as soon as the dessert wine or dessert has been served. Finns observe the name day as well as the birthday of close friends, relatives, and prominent people personally known. The really important birthday celebrations are the 50th and 60th, which are recognized by extending best wishes either by phone or telegram, or by sending flowers. Names for the day are published in local newspapers.

Tampere Tampere, in Finland’s southwestern province of Häme, is the third largest city in the country (population, 193,000) and one of the leading textile centers of northern Europe. It lies on an isthmus between Lakes Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi. In Swedish, the city is called Tammerfors. Tampere has been a trade center since the 11th century, and today is known for its many industries which include paper, shoes, and machinery, as well as its famous textiles. It was here in 1918 that the country’s White forces defeated the Finnish Bolsheviks.

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© Nik Wheeler/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Downtown street in Turku, Finland

Particular points of interest in the city are the Sarkänniemi Tourist Center, with its aquarium, amusement park, planetarium, children’s zoo, and the Näsinneula Observation Tower; the university; the town cathedral; the city hall; and the many fine old churches in the surrounding countryside, including

Messukylä Stone Church, the oldest in the area. The Häme Museum is known for its collection of folk art, rugs, and ecclesiastical pieces that show the ethnography and cultural history of Tampere and the Häme province. The Sara Hildén Art Museum dis-

plays Finnish and international art, primarily post-war painting, sculpture, and graphics. Bus and boat excursions can be arranged to the lakes and forests. Tampere is known for the Pyynikki Summer Theatre, the world’s first with a revolving auditorium, and for 147

Finland the warm-weather concerts in Koskipuisto Park. The city has a golf course, tennis courts, swimming pools, and nearby beaches. There also are first-class hotels and restaurants (one on the observation tower).

Turku Turku (in Swedish, Åbo), capital of Turun-Porin Province in southwestern Finland, is a large port and industrial city at the mouth of the Aurajohi River, on the Baltic Sea. There are steel mills, shipyards, textile mills, and machine shops, but Turku is also the center of an agricultural region. Its population is approximately 172,000. Turku is called “the cradle of Finnish culture.” It was the seat of the first bishop of Finland in 1229, and the home of the National University from 1640 to 1827; the following y e a r, a f t e r a d i s a s t r o u s f i r e destroyed most of the city, the university was moved to Helsinki. Turku was the country’s capital until 1812. The Treaty of Åbo, in which Sweden ceded part of southeastern Finland to Russia, was signed here in 1743. The city’s great 13th-century cathedral, consumed by fire the same year that the city was destroyed, has been restored. Its beautiful ceiling and the tombs and icons housed within the structure are particularly impressive reminders of Finland’s ancient past. Also rebuilt and now a museum is Turku’s castle, which dates from the 13th century; it was burned in 1614 and bombed during World War II. T u r k u ’s o p e n -a i r h a n d i c r a f t museum is one of Finland’s most popular summer attractions. Tourists throng to the area to view the displays, and to patronize the hotels and restaurants. The city is interesting both for its history and for its cultural atmosphere. It supports three newspapers. The picturesque old town of Naantali (in Swedish, Nådendal), with a population of 14,000, is close to 148

Cities of the World Turku, and serves as the city’s port. It dates from 1445 and is known for its picturesque wooden houses. The presidential summer residence is on nearby Luonnon-maa Island. Naantali hosts a celebrated chamber music festival each June.

OTHER CITIES ESPOO (Esbo in Swedish), is the home of the Institute of Technology, with campus and buildings designed by famed architect Alvar Aalto. With a population of 210,000, it is located 11 miles west of Helsinki. Espoo has five regional centers and one of them, Tapiola, is a pioneer work of Finnish town planning, combining comfortable living with up-to-date services and blending into the natural surroundings. Prehistoric finds show that the area of Espoo was settled about 3,500 B.C. The Espoo Granite Church, completed early in the 15th century, contains medieval frescoes.

fortifications, built by Catherine II of Russia, stood here from 1795 to 1855, when the English navy completely destroyed the fortification, except for the Orthodox church. That church, St. Nicholas, still stands, and is the city’s oldest building. Another historical site is a Lutheran church, built in 1898. The Kymenlaakso Museum, originally built for Alexander III, is 10 miles northwest. It houses objects connected with the naval battle of Ruotsinsalmi, textiles, porcelain, a numismatic collection, and ethnography and cultural history displays. KUOPIO was founded by King Gustav III of Sweden in 1782. Today, with a population of 87,000, it is the capital of the province of Kuopio. Its location in south-central Finland on the western shore of Lake Kallavesi makes it a center of lake traffic. Museums include the Kuopio Art Museum, the Kuopio Museum, and the Orthodox Church Museum, with Western Europe’s most extensive collection relating to the Orthodox Church.

JYVÄSKYLÄ (population 78,000) is located amid the hills and lakes of south-central Finland. It was previously known primarily as a town of schools and culture, and today is famous for its modern university with buildings designed by Alvar Aalto. Jyväskylä has several museums, including the Alvar Aalto Museum, which displays Aalto’s sketches, drawings, designs, and furniture, the Jyväskylä town art collection, and temporary art exhibits.

LAHTI is located approximately 65 miles northeast of Helsinki. With a population of 97,000, it is Finland’s seventh largest city. Built between two mountain ridges on the shore of Lake Vesijärvi, Lahti is a winter sports center that hosted the 1978 and 1989 World Ski Championships and the 1981 and 1991 World Biathlon Championships. It is also an industrial center for furniture, textiles, window glass, foodstuffs, and beer.

The city of KOTKA is located in southeastern Finland, about 70 miles northeast of the capital. The main part of the town is situated on the peninsula between the two eastern tributaries of the month of the Kymi River and on the island of Kotka (Kotkansaari). Founded in 1878 by Czar Alexander II of Russia, Kotka began to grow during the late 1930s. Today, it is one of Finland’s major eastern ports and handles petroleum importation. The city, with an estimated population of 55,000, has a flour mill and a sugar refinery. The Ruotsinsalmi naval

Th e c a pi ta l o f O u l u Pr o v i n c e, OULU (Uleåborg in Swedish) is located in west-central Finland, about 325 miles north of Helsinki. The city was established as a trading post during the Middle Ages. It became a town in 1610 and was later the victim of several misfortunes. An explosion destroyed its fortress in 1793, a fire severely damaged the city in 1822, its depots and harbor were destroyed during the Crimean War, and many sections of the city were ruined during World War II. Today, Oulu is a modern city with universities and a dis-

Finland

Cities of the World trict hospital. Its industries include lumber, shipyards, tanneries, and fisheries. A hydroelectric power source, the Merikoski rapids, is also a major tourist highlight. The Oulu Music Festival is held each February. Oulu has a population of about 118,000 and is linked to other Finland cities by sea, air, and rail. PORI (Björneborg is situated less than 70 miles north of Turku, in southwestern Finland. Settled farther north in the 12th century, and called Ulvila in 1365, Pori was moved to its present location in 1558. After a major fire in 1852, the town plan was modernized. Kirjurinluoto Islet is a natural park on the Kokemäenjoki River in the middle of town. It is the site of a summer theatre and the annual Pori International Jazz Festival, held in July. The city exports lumber and other products f rom th e port o n the Kokemäenjoki River. Located in the city are a 17th-century theater and a museum. Finland’s largest shortwave wireless transmitting station is located here. Pori’s population is around 76,000. VAASA, the capital of Vaasa Province, has an estimated population of 57,000, with two-thirds Finnishspeaking and one-third Swedishspeaking. It lies on the Gulf of Bothnia in western Finland. The Swedish king, Charles IX, founded Vaasa in 1606. The country’s second Court of Appeal was established here in 1776. After the fire of 1852 which destroyed almost the whole town, a new town plan was drawn up and built closer to the coast. Vaasa exports timber; industries include machinery and soap factories, textile mills, and a sugar refinery. There is regular ferry service to Sweden, along with rail and air facilities linking Vaasa with numerous Finnish cities. Located less than 10 miles north of Helsinki, VANTAA was incorporated as a city in 1974. It is linked with the capital and Lahti by rail and highways. The city is a commercial and tourist hub and is the location of the Helsinki-Vantaa Airport. Points of interest include the Finn-

i s h Av i a ti o n M u s e u m a n d t h e 13th-century St. Lauri Church. Vantaa’s population is approximately 176,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Finland, the sixth largest country in Europe, occupies an area of 130,160 square miles (338,312 square kilometers) about twice the size of the United Kingdom. Its coastline, excluding indentations, is 688 miles (1,100 kilometers) long. Finland is bordered on the east and southeast by Russia, on the west by Sweden and the Gulf of Bothnia, on the north by Norway, and on the south by the Gulf of Finland. Most of the country is low, but not necessarily flat. Because the soil, mainly moraine deposits from Ice Age glaciers, is very thin, the topography reflects the contours of the Archean bedrock. Elevations greater than 2100 feet (650 meters) are found along the northwestern frontier with Norway and in the extreme northern region of Lapland. The majority of Finland’s 60,000 lakes, comprising 10 percent of the total area, lie in the southern half of the country and provide important waterways and log-floating routes. An extensive and imposing archipelago, extending from the Russian border on the south, westward to the Aland Islands, and from t h e r e n o r t h wa r d , p r o v i d e s a n important fishing and vacation area noted for its magnitude and grandeur. Apart from the lakes and archipelagos, the outstanding physical feature and natural resource of Finland is its forest, covering about 65 percent of the land area, the highest percentage in Europe. The forests of Finland are mainly coniferous; a limited area in the south and southwest contains hardwood deciduous trees. In Lapland, the

spruce and pines disappear, and dwarf birch usually forms the timber line. Virtually all of Finland lies between latitudes 60° and 70°N, with onethird of its length north of the Arctic Circle, but the Gulf Stream current and the prevalence of warm westerly winds make the climate several degrees warmer than the average elsewhere at the same latitude. Summers are short (in southern Finland from June 1 to September 1) and mild, with daylight extending well into the night hours. In Ju n e a n d Ju l y, o n l y a t w o - o r three-hour period of twilight separates sunset and sunrise. In the extreme north, the sun does not set for 73 days during the midsummer period. Precipitation, averaging 23 to 25 inches annually, is distributed over all seasons of the year. Winters are long and cold. Snow is possible from October through April, with January through March having the heaviest accumulations. Temperatures may vary from north to south, as does the snow coverage from one winter to the next. Helsinki’s location on the Gulf of Fi n l a n d a c c o u n t s f o r i t s h i g h humidity level. The city’s average temperature is 41°F (5°C). The average mean temperatures in January and July are 26°F and 71°F. The nearness of the sea also affects the city’s weather. The mean temperature of 25°F during February, the coldest month, is considerably higher than the average for the country as a whole and, in July, the wa r m e s t m o n t h , c o n s t a n t s e a breezes keep it cooler. During the coldest days of winter, the mercury might dip as low as -20°F, and on the hottest days of summer rise to 85°F, but the weather tends to be more temperate than that of the United States’ northern midwest. Helsinki’s maritime location also means frequent rain and high humidity. Average temperatures in Lapland are 10°F (-12°C) in January, and 63°F (17°C) in July. 149

Finland

Population Finland’s population of 5.2 million includes some 3,000 Lapps. Since World War II, rapid industrialization, the growth of service industries, and expanded educational opportunities have fostered a continuous movement to urban centers. In recent years, however, this decline/growth cycle has stabilized.

bal forms, and a highly phonetic orthography. Finns never have trouble spelling. Christianity was introduced to Finland in 1155 by King Eric of Sweden. For 300 years, the Catholic Church was influential but, during the Reformation, the Protestant religion became predominant. Today, some 89 percent of the population belongs to the state church, the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Church. The Finnish Orthodox congregation, with 1 percent of the population as members, is also a state church, but it owes allegiance to the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Bishops of the eight dioceses of the Evangelical Church are appointed by the president of the republic on the basis of elections held in each diocese. The bishop of the Turku diocese is the archbishop of the Church of Finland.

wounds that are still not entirely healed. Both the left and right in Finnish politics have their own version of the events. Political affiliation could still reflect a family choice of sides in 1918.

History

During World War II, Finland twice fought the Soviet Union: in the Winter War of 1939–40, and again in the Continuation War of 1941–44. Finland suffered heavy casualties, lost 11 percent of its territory to the Soviet Union, and over 400,000 Finns had to be resettled. The Treaty of Peace between Finland and the U.S.S.R., signed at Paris on February 10, 1947, provided for the cession to the Soviet Union of the Petsamo area on the Arctic coast and the Karelian Isthmus in southeast Finland, for the lease of the Porkkala area near Helsinki to Russia for use as a naval base, and for free access to this area across Finnish territory. In late 1955, the Soviets returned the Porkkala area to Finland. The treaty also provided that Finland pay Russia reparation in goods valued at an estimated $570 million (completed in 1952). Finland’s defense forces are limited by the Peace Treaty to 41,900 men (Army, 34,400; Navy, 4,500; Air Force, 3,000).

Finns are generally of light complexion, with fair hair and blue or grey eyes. Racially the Finns are mixed, as are most European peoples. The main racial characteristics are derived from the East-Baltic and Nordic races. At the beginning of the Christian era, Finland was occupied by a semi-nomadic people, the Lapps. Gradually, the ancestors of the present-day Finns moved the Lapps northward to the Arctic.

Historically, Finland was controlled for long periods of time by both Sweden and Russia. From its first conquests in the 12th century until the surrender of Finland to Russia in 1809, during the Napoleonic wars, Sweden ruled. Then, Finland was annexed and became a grand duchy of Russia. Assurance given by Alexander I that Finnish laws and constitutional rights would be respected became obsolete under increasingly reactionary czars.

In the United Nations, which it joined in 1955, Finland favors membership for all nations, usually takes no stand on major East-West issues, stresses neutrality as policy of active participation in international life, and channels the bulk of its foreign assistance to developing countries through various U.N. agencies. Finland supports and actively participates in the U.N.’s peacekeeping activities.

The early Finns are believed to have come from Central Asia. Their language, unlike that of their neighbors, is not Indo-European. Like Estonian, Hungarian, and the languages of certain minorities in central and northern Russia, Finnish forms part of the Finno-Ugric family. Characteristics of the Finnish language include the use of case endings, post-positions instead of prepositions, a great wealth of ver-

The cultural and political awakening of Finland in literature and in resistance to “Russification” quickened the pace towards creation of an independent state. On December 6, 1917, Finland declared its independence and was immediately plunged into a civil war between the “Reds” a n d t h e e v en t u a l l y v i c t o r i o u s “Whites.” A new constitution was proclaimed in 1919. The violence of t h e t h r e e -m o n t h s t r u g g l e l e f t

An official policy of neutrality and nonalignment has led to the establishment of relations with other countries regardless of their political systems. Finland worked for the convening of the Conference on European Security and Cooperation in July 1973, involving the U.S.S.R., countries of Eastern and Western Europe, Canada, and the U.S. This conference culminated in a summit meeting of 35 heads of state and the

Finland has two official languages—Finnish and Swedish. Under the constitution, the government must meet equally the cultural and economic requirements of both language groups. Finnish is spoken by 93 percent of the population, and Swedish by six percent. There is a small Lapp and Russianspeaking minority. After Finnish and Swedish, English is the language most commonly used, followed by German. Foreign-language study is an important part of the secondary school curriculum, and more than 90 percent of all students choose to study English. Most business firms are able to correspond in English, and English-speaking tourists have little difficulty communicating in Helsinki.

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Finland has complete freedom of worship, and several smaller church organizations have congregations totaling 1 percent of the population. 9 percent of the population claim to have no religious affiliation.

Finland

Cities of the World signing of the Final Act—often called the Helsinki Accords—on August 1, 1975. Finland has also supported the Strategic Arms Limitation Talks (SALT), which began in Helsinki in 1969. In the Nordic Council, an inter-parliamentary organ of cooperation among Nordic nations, Finland works closely with its neighbors on matters of intra-Nordic concern.

Government Finland is a We stern-oriented republic. Under the constitution of 1919, the president, elected for a six-year term, has powers stronger than those of European counterparts, although not as great as U.S. presidential powers. The president, currently Tarja Halonen, has full powers over foreign affairs, is the commander-in-chief of the armed forces, and can dissolve parliament. The Council of State Cabinet is appointed by the president and includes the prime minister, currently Paavo Lipponen, and usually about 16 ministers and associate ministers in charge of the 11 government departments. The Parliament (Eduskunta) is unicameral and consists of 200 members directly elected every four years through proportional representation. Under the constitution, the Eduskunta is the supreme authority in Finland. It has the power to amend the constitution, force the resignation of the Council of State, and override presidential vetoes without judicial review. Suffrage is equal and universal; all citizens over the age of 18 have the right to vote. Finland was the first country in Europe to grant full political rights to women (1906), well before the U.S.

governments are multi-party coalitions, although at times it has been necessary to form cabinets composed of non-party technical experts. The average life of Finnish cabinets has been 12 months. By contrast, Finland has had only five presidents since 1946. Recently, however, the duration of cabinets has lengthened considerably. Justice is administered by independent courts. The public courts of justice try both civil and criminal cases. In rural areas, courts of the first instance are known as circuit courts, the judicial authority resting in a legally trained judge and a jury of lay members. Cities have municipal courts, each presided over by a legally trained magistrate and two counselors. Other courts are the Courts of Appeal and the highest judicial authority, the Supreme Court, to which appeals may be made against the judgments of the former. Judicial procedure differs from that in Anglo-Saxon countries; Finnish law is codified and does not provide for writ of habeas corpus or bail. Formal charges must be brought within seven days of detention on suspicion and, in practice, charges are usually brought within three to four days. Courts of first instance must hear a case within 30 days of arrest. Civil rights are deeply entrenched and strictly observed by the police and courts.

Finnish policies on most basic domestic and foreign issues have been consistent, notwithstanding a relatively rapid turnover of cabinets and periods when no government commanded a parliamentary majority.

T h e 1 2 Fi n n i s h p r o v i n c e s a r e divided into cities and communes and are administered by municipal and communal council elected every four years. The eleven mainland provinces each have a governor appointed by the president. The governors report to the Ministry of the Interior. The island province of Aland, located between Finland and Sweden in the southern part of the Gulf of Bothnia operates under local autonomy under a 1921 international convention.

Nine political parties are represented in Parliament. Most Finnish

The flag of Finland is white with a blue cross.

Arts, Science, Education Much of the richness of Finnish culture derives from the folk element. A wealth of songs, buildings, costumes, and traditions has been carefully preserved over the years. Finnish literature in its oldest form is comprised of the epic poems and tales passed from generation to generation by word of mouth. Since the first half of the 19th century, a determined effort has been made to preserve the national culture through creation of a Finnish-language literature. Many of the resulting masterpieces, both in poetry and prose, reflect a historical context and regional spirit. Publication in 1835 of the Finnish national epic, The Kalevala, a collection of traditional myths and legends, first stirred the nationalism that led to independence in 1917. Fi n n is h a rch i tec t u re is j u s tl y famous, from the earliest achievements seen in medieval castles, through the elaborate wooden buildings of the 18th century, to the innovative and functional design prevalent today. Alvo Aalto (1898– 1976), the modern Finnish architect, influenced urban and regional planning, interior decoration, and industrial art. Finlandia Hall, the National Pensions Institute, Aalto’s Enso-Gutzeit Building, and the Helsinki Railway Station of Eliel Saarinen are only four of many buildings which attract students of architecture from all over the world. In the fields of music, painting, and sculpture are found many examples of Finnish genius. Glass (Nuutajarvi, Iittala, Humppila, etc.), porcelain (Arabia), textiles (Marimekko, Vuokko, and Pentik), jewelry (Lapponia and Kalevala Koru), and furniture (Alvar Aalto and Ilmari Tapiovaara) are some of the many items that bear the unique stamp of Finnish handiwork and design. Finland, with virtually no illiteracy, has an advanced educational system, which is free and includes all textbooks and a broad medical-care program. Pupils receive a hot meal 151

Finland each day at school. Special schools have been established in the larger cities for children who are handicapped or have learning disabilities. Four basic levels comprise the school system: preschool education, compulsory education (the nine-year comprehensive school), upper secondary education, and the universities and similar institutions. Finland has a strong state-subsidized adult education program, with classes held at community schools or workers’ institutes. This program supplements and/or completes the basic education and provi d e s f o r adv an c e d v o c ati o n al training or cultural and intellectual pursuits. The largest university is the state-supported University of Helsinki, which has spearheaded the country’s intellectual life since the 17th century. Founded in 1640 as the State University of Turku, it was moved to Helsinki in 1828. Another important state school of advanced education is the Institute of Technology, established in 1908, and now located at Otaniemi in Espoo. The entire campus was designed by architect Alvar Aalto. State-supported higher education facilities have undergone major expansion since 1958. Jyväskylä Teachers College, founded in 1934, was enlarged to university status. In 1959, a new university was established at Oulu in the north. It was followed by universities in Joensuu and Kuopio. The latest in Rovaniemi (Lapin Province), established in 1979, is the world’s most northerly university.

Commerce and Industry Finland has become a modern industrialized nation. The prevailing standard of living is at the same high level which characterizes the other Scandinavian countries, with Finland ranking in the top dozen or so nations in terms of per-

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Cities of the World sonal-inco me levels. Economic development has taken place in the face of many obstacles. At the time of independence from Russia in 1917, Finland’s economy was that of an undeveloped, remote Russian province; about 20 years after independence, Finland was thrust into a series of three destructive wars— two against the U.S.S.R. and one against German armed forces. Wartime damage was heavy and peace terms imposed on Finland included heavy “reparations” payments to the Soviet Union. Today, Finland is an essentially private economy. Most businesses are privately owned; however, some larger industrial enterprises are government owned in areas such as steel and mining. Railroads are state owned and the Finnair airline is majority state owned. The telephone system is split between government and private companies. Oil refining is a government monopoly, but retail gas stations are both state and privately held; all sales of high alcohol-content beverages are in government-owned stores. Overall, the country’s economic situation is impressive. Finland has been a leader in Europe in terms of economic growth. Inflation has been at higher than prevailing European levels, but has recently been better controlled. Still, for various reasons, prices are high by current U.S. standards. Finland’s main economic force is in manufacturing—often for export. Forest industries are still strong, but they are shrinking. Agriculture has, over the years, been declining, but farmers continue to be encouraged by government support to maintain national self-sufficiency in basic food production, the quality of which is very high. Only eight percent of Finland is under cultivation. The service industries are enjoying healthy growth in fields such as banking, insurance, and engineering/design services. Foreign trade is extremely important; Finland must import all of its

oil, as well as some metals, chemicals, and food products. Machinery imports are high, but are balanced by a high number of machinery exports. Forestry products, such as paper, are a primary export, as are ships, furs, clothing, and glassware. Germany, Britain, Sweden, Russia, and the U.S. are the primary source of product imports. Finland participates in international economic organizations; supports free trade policies; and is a member of the World Bank, the International Finance Corporation, the Asian Development Bank and the Inter-American Development Bank. Investment abroad is increasing as well, with nearly 200 Finnish-owned firms in the U.S., including four banks in New York City. Finland donates foreign aid to less developed countries, particularly in Africa and Asia. Finnish citizens actively support Finland’s aid policies. The Helsinki Chamber of Commerce is located at Kalevanketu 12, 00100 Helsinki 10.

Transportation The Finnish State Railways has a vast operating track (5,580 miles), with links to Sweden and the Russia. The northernmost point accessible by train is Kemijärvi, north of Rovaniemi. The highway system is constantly being expanded; public roads cover 48,320 miles (77,796 kilometers), of which about half are paved. Trucking and bus services are steadily gaining in importance as carriers of passengers and goods. However, although highways are well maintained, they are not as efficient at transporting traffic as might be expected for a modern industrial nation; travel time is frequently longer than anticipated. Finnair Oy (with the state as major stockholder) maintains regular air service to locales within Finland; to major European capitals; and to Seattle, Los Angeles, New York, and

Finland

Cities of the World Montreal, among cities on other continents. Most freight and much of the passenger traffic is via sea. Harbors are kept open even during the coldest winter periods, with ferry links available to Sweden, Germany, and Estonia on a regularly scheduled basis. Helsinki offers excellent bus and tram service. Taxis, readily available at many stands throughout the city, may be reached by calling the widely publicized numbers for these taxi centers. Fares are not excessive and drivers are not tipped. Certain suburbs are efficiently served by commuter trains. A subway line was recently opened to suburbs in the east, with further expansion planned. Public transportation is used by many people for getting to work and to recreational and social activities; however, a car is still extremely useful. In winter, main roads are kept open, but winter driving, even in Helsinki and its outskirts, can be hazardous because of frequent icy conditions.

Communications The government operates the domestic telegraph and most of the country’s telephone facilities. Direct dialing is available to many foreign locations, including the U.S. In Helsinki to contact emergency systems, dial 000. A privately owned telegraph cable extends between Sweden and Finland, and nearly all cable communications to overseas destinations are transmitted by this route. International airmail normally takes five days in transit from Helsinki to New York. Postal rates are expensive. Broadcasting is done by Oy Yleisradio Ab, the Finnish Broadcasting Company, and by MTV Oy, an independent commercial company. Yleisradio, however, is the only licensed corporation. A fair selection of musical programs is available throughout the day on Finnish AM and FM radio. Many radio channels can be received from other European countries. Good Voice of Amer-

ica (VOA) and British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) reception is possible with a shortwave radio. Television channels operate during the afternoon and evening hours. Some foreign programs (including American, British, and Canadian) are offered in the original language with Finnish or Swedish subtitles. Fin n i sh T V, w h i ch b r o a d c a s t s mostly color programs, has the same technical standards as Germany. Private cable service, offering a wide selection of movies and serials, is available at various locations within the city of Helsinki. The first Finnish newspaper was printed in 1771. Now, more than 300 papers are published at least four times each week. Ten newspapers are regarded as national dailies, although none of these has a truly nationwide coverage. Time, Newsweek, The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, and the International Herald Tribune are sold locally, although the Herald Tribune usually arrives one or two days after publication. English-language books and magazines are sold at Helsinki’s main train station, in lobbies of larger hotels, and at the city’s two principal bookstores. A good selection of other foreign-language books and magazines can also be found at the two main bookstores— standard works in Swedish, French, Italian, German, and Spanish. All imported publications are more expensive than in the country of origin.

Health The standards of the Finnish medical profession are high. Most physicians are educated at the University of Helsinki, and many study or do research abroad as well. A large number of doctors speak English and German, in addition to Finnish and Swedish. Specialists in most medical fields serve the major communities. Hospitals are modern and well equipped, and the treatment is

good. Ophthalmologists are available and opticians can fill prescript i o n s p r o m p t l y. D e n t i s t s a n d orthodontists are competent. A listing of area hospitals and doctors is available from the U.S. Embassy’s administrative section in Helsinki. Most medicines are available locally at reasonable, state-controlled prices. They may not, however, be the same compositions or brand names prescribed by U.S. physicians. Those planning an extended stay should arrive with a supply of necessary medications; this will allow time to consult with a doctor to determine the proper Finnish equivalent. Medicine is sold only at pharmacies (“aptee KKi”), while chemists (“Kemikaalikauppa”) sell cosmetics only. Some pharmacies are open 24 hours and all pharmacies display a notice in their windows with the address of the nearest pharmacy on night duty. The general level of community sanitation is high. Public cleanliness and controls are adequate to prevent serious outbreaks of disease, and there are no pest or vermin problems. Helsinki water is dependable, but not fluoridated; fluoride tablets for children can be obtained locally. Pasteurized milk is available, and the processing of fresh milk is closely controlled. The general sanitation and safety of local goods are comparable to those in the U.S. Sewage and garbage arrangements are excellent. Helsinki’s winter climate is cold and damp and may aggravate conditions such as neuralgia, rheumatism, and sinus disorders. Since long periods pass without much sunshine, vitamins are strongly recommended.

Clothing and Services In preparing a wardrobe for Finland, one should remember that winters are long and cold, springs and autumns are rainy and cool, and summers are short. Layered outfits are ideal for differences in

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Finland seasonal temperatures, as well as for changes from indoors to outdoors. All clothing items can be purchased locally at prices which tend to be higher than in the U.S.; good sales occur during January and August, and it is worthwhile to shop at these times. Winter outer-garments and boots for all family members are well made, ideally suited to the climate, and generally worth the extra expense. Those who are difficult to fit in respect to shoe size or other wearing apparel are advised to bring extra items from home. Men wear medium-weight suits throughout the year in Finland but, from October to May, heavier suits are often needed. Rain gear, overcoats, boots, and overshoes are necessary items, and fur hats are found to be very warm as well as popular locally. Tuxedos are appropriate for many social occasions during the year. “Informal” on a dinner invitation usually means coat and tie. A useful wardrobe for a woman will include one long dress or skirt; several short dinner dresses; sports attire; and suits, casual dresses or skirts, sweaters, and blouses. Rain gear and heavy winter coats are needed also. Beautiful fur and leather coats are available locally. Children’s needs include warm, water-resistant snowsuits and boots, and lighter-weight coats and jackets for spring and fall. Rubber overalls, readily purchased in local department stores, are useful during both rainy and thawing periods. It may be advisable to have an extra set of outdoor clothes for children who actively participate in winter sports. Laundry and dry cleaning are expensive, making it advisable to include cleaning compounds for spot removals in one’s household effects. Certain neighborhood dry cleaners offer kilo pesu, or cleaning of items with the charge based on weight; these items are not steam pressed.

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Cities of the World Local and European brands of toiletries, cosmetics, and patent medicines are available, but costly.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Helsinki is served by daily flights from many European cities, and Finnair flies from New York, Los Angeles, Miami, and Tampa. Northwest Airlines serves Stockholm, Sweden and, from there, the traveler has the option of taking the ferry boat to Helsinki. Visas are not necessary for entry into Finland, but those planning to stay for more than 90 days must obtain residence permits after arrival. No inoculation certificates are required. Dogs and cats can be imported to Finland; however, they must be vaccinated against rabies. A certificate issued by a veterinarian must state that the animal has been vaccinated at least 30 days and not more than 12 months prior to importation. Cats and dogs imported to Finland cannot be taken to Sweden or Norway without a quarantine period of four months in either country. Only nonautomatic sport and hunting firearms may be imported, and local requirements for hunting licenses are handled by the police. No military or police-type firearms are permitted. Fishing licenses also are required. Many religious affiliations are represented in Helsinki. Services in English are offered on a weekly basis by the Anglican Church at the Cathedral Chapel, Saalem Free Gospel Church, and the Tempeliaukio Lutheran Church; St. Henrik’s Catholic Church offers English services two Sundays a month. Other places of worship include: Uspensky Russian Orthodox Cathedral; two churches of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints; Helsinki’s synagogue; and Islam House.

The time in Finland is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus two. The markka, or Finnmark (FIM), ceased being legal currency on 1 March 2002, and was replaced by the euro. One euro is equivalent to US$1.08 (22 May 2002). Finland uses the metric system of weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . May Day May . . . . . . . . . . . . Mother’s Day* May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Whitsun Eve* May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday* June . . . . . . . . . . . Midsummer's Eve* June . . . . . . . . . . . Midsummer's Day* June . . . . . . . . . . . Father’s Day* Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints' Day Dec. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Engman, Max, and David Kirby, eds. Finland: People, Nation, State. Bloomington: Indian University Press, 1989. Finland Handbook. VADK-Publishing and the Finnish Tourist Board, annually. Frommer’s Scandinavia. New York: Frommer, latest edition.

Finland

Cities of the World Jarvinen, I.R. Contemporary Folklore & Culture Change. Philadelphia: Coronet Books, 1986. Nordstrom, Byron J., ed. Dictionary of Scandinavian History. Westport, CT: Greenwood, 1986.

Penttila, Risto E. Finland’s Search for Security Through Defense, 1944–1989. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991. Rajanen, Aini. Of Finnish Ways. New York: HarperCollins, 1984.

Singleton, Fred. A Short History of Finland. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1990. Ward, Philip. Finnish Cities: Travels in Helsinki, Turku, Tampere & Lapland. New York: Oleander Press, 1987.

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Paris, France

FRANCE French Republic

Major Cities: Paris, Bordeaux, Marseille, Strasbourg, Lyons, Nice, Nancy, Caen, Le Havre, Lille, Montpellier, Nantes, Reims, Rouen, Toulon, Toulouse

Other Cities: Aix-en-Provence, Alençon, Amiens, Angers, Angoulême, Annecy, Arles, Arras, Auch, Aurillac, Auxerre, Avignon, Beauvais, Belfort, Besançon, Blois, Boulogne, Boulogne-Billancourt, Bourg, Bourges, Brest, Cannes, Carcassonne, Châteaubriant, Châteaudun, ClermontFerrand, Colmar, Dijon, Grenoble, Le Mans, Limoges, Lourdes, Metz, Moulins, Mulhouse, Nanterre, Nîmes, Orléans, Pau, Perpignan, Poitiers, Rennes, Roubaix, Saint-Brieuc, Saint-Denis, Saint-Étienne, Saint-Malo, Saint-Nazaire, Tourcoing, Tours, Troyes, Valence, Versailles

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated January 1995. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

MAJOR CITIES Paris Paris lies in north-central France in the Seine River Valley within the Department of the Seine. Climatic conditions in Paris are moderate. Winters are damp, but not severe. Snowfall is light, sunshine is rare in winter, and gray, foggy days are frequent. Summer temperatures are rarely oppressive, but rain is heavy at times. Hot weather may come as early as May and last as late as October. Conversely, June and July

can be cool or rainy. Winds are not excessive. The famous “April in Paris” is traditionally cold, wet, and windy, although autumn can be ideal. The Paris region has a population of almost 9.7 million and Paris itself has about 2.1 million inhabitants. About 4,000 to 6,000 American students are enrolled in universitylevel education in Paris and the provinces. Paris receives about 1.8 million American tourists each year. The Paris Embassy has the distinction of being the first American diplomatic mission overseas. Benjamin Franklin was appointed the first diplomatic agent in 1778, followed by Thomas Jefferson.

small grocery stores, some of which are part of a larger chain. Throughout the city are larger chain supermarkets, some with underground parking. These are a little cheaper for most things than the neighborhood shops, but items are bulk packaged. On the outskirts of the city are even larger supermarkets with slightly lower prices and goods packaged in larger quantities. Most people do their regular shopping on foot in their own neighborhood using their neighborhood butcher, cheese store, and bake shop with occasional forays to the big stores. However, shopping for milk at one store, bread in another, and meat in still another can be time consuming.

Food Each neighborhood of Paris has an open-air market several days a week, where fresh produce, cheese, meat, and fish are sold at prices usually cheaper than the supermarkets. The French do their food shopping daily and therefore need to have an array of shops close to home, so each neighborhood also has a variety of specialty stores and

Scattered throughout Paris are several small specialty shops, such as The General Store and Thanksgiving, which stock only American import goods at higher than U.S. prices. Prepared food is available from “charcuteries” or delicatessens, where a hot meal can be purchased 157

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on a carry-out basis at midday, or fine pate, cheeses, cold meats, and salads can be purchased for a quick, cold meal. Stores specializing in frozen food, ready for the microwave or oven, abound. American-style carryouts have sprung up all over the city, with hamburgers and french fries readily available.

Clothing French summers are cooler and winters slightly milder than those in Washington, D.C., meaning that a full range of seasonal clothing is needed. A raincoat and umbrella are necessities, as are comfortable walking shoes, sturdy enough to withstand wet streets. Most Americans do more walking in Paris than in the U.S., and even use of the metro and bus often involves walking substantial distances. Comfortable shoes suitable for sight-seeing are essential. Local shoe stores carry excellent quality shoes, but at high prices. Although Paris has a reputation as a mecca for shopping, prices for almost everything are higher than in the U.S. There are some discount and outlet stores, and the major January and July sales offer some bargains. There are a few secondhand or consignment shops, but most clothing is designer-labeled and expensive, even at half price.

Men: Business suits are worn to most social functions.

Women: Paris clothing needs are similar to those of any big city in the U.S. French women wear dresses, suits, and shirts, rather than slacks, to events. Colors are dark—black is a favorite. Sweaters, shawls, and blazers of all weights are useful. Children: Prices are almost 50 percent higher than U.S. prices for similar quality goods. Low-priced outlets exist. Supplies and Services There are few supplies and services found in the U.S. that can not be found in Paris, but prices are higher. 158

Men’s and women’s haircuts cost slightly more than in the U.S. Laundry, dry-cleaning, and shoe repair services are available, but at prices higher than in the U.S.

Religious Activities Most faiths have a congregation in Paris. The American Cathedral (Episcopalian) and the American Church in Paris (interdenominational) have American pastors and a predominantly American congregation. St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church offers services in English for the English-speaking community. Some Catholic parishes, where Englishspeaking foreigners ordinarily reside, have an English-speaking French priest. All congregations have affiliated social and religious organizations, such as Sunday school, choir, women’s groups, etc. Several Jewish synagogues in the Paris area hold services in French and Hebrew.

Education The Paris area has a number of schools that offer American curriculum instruction from kindergarten through high school. Several private French schools offer a bilingual French-English curriculum program. The majority of American children attend the American-curriculum schools. The French public school system offers a high standard of education, but classes are crowded and no provision is made for non-French speakers. In addition, French schools are zoned, making application difficult in advance of arrival. Detailed information on the following schools may be obtained by writing directly to each school.

tional program from pre-kindergarten through grade 12, including a strong college preparatory and the International Baccalaureate curriculum. Although the Upper School has an honors program, the Middle School does not. Located in the suburb of St. Cloud, the school has bus service to most parts of Paris and to the nearby suburbs. Marymount International School 72, blvd. de la Saussaye 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine France Tel: (1) 46.24.10.51 Marymount School of Paris is an independent, coeducational day school run by the religious order of the Sacred Heart of Mary. It offers an American educational program from pre-kindergarten through grade 8. Located in the suburb of Neuilly, the school offers bus service to most parts of Paris and the suburbs. International School of Paris Elementary School 96 bis, rue du Ranelagh 75016 Paris Middle School 7, rue Chardin 75016 Paris High School 6, rue Beethoven 75016 Paris Tel: (1) 42.24.09.54 The International School of Paris is an independent, coeducational day school, which offers an Anglo-American program to students of all nationalities from pre-kindergarten through grade 12.

The American School of Paris 41, rue Pasteur 92210 Saint-Cloud France Tel: (1) 46.02.54.43

Various options exist for pre-kinderga r te n chi ld r e n . Ch i ld re n n o t attending preschool at any of the schools listed above usually go to either one of the two Montessori schools or to the U.N. nursery school. Detailed information on these schools may be obtained by writing to them directly:

The American School of Paris, an independent, coeducational day school, offers an American educa-

United Nations Nursery School 40, rue Pierre-Guerin 75016 Paris

France

Cities of the World France Tel: (1) 45.27.20.24 The Bilingual Montessori School of Paris 65, quai d’Orsay 75007 Paris France Tel: (1) 45.55.13.27 Both state-run and private nursery schools have large classes averaging 25–30 children, and teaching is more formal than in American nursery schools. French children ages 3 to 6 attend neighborhood “ecoles maternelles.” The state-run “maternelles” are free, but apply in May or June for the following academic year to secure a place. Schools are zoned within each neighborhood.

Special Educational Opportunities

Overview of Paris, Eiffel Tower in the distance

Courtesy of MaryBeth Mailloux

Excellent French-language programs are offered by the Sorbonne, the Alliance Francaise, the Institute Catholique, and the British Institute. Private tutors charge about 100 francs an hour.

vate club with high costs. The many public swimming pools in Paris offer excellent facilities at reasonable cost. Facilities for bowling, ice skating, and roller-skating are all numerous.

The numerous city parks offer many activities for children, often with excellent playground equipment. Carrousels, pony rides, boat sailing, and puppet shows are found in the major parks at reasonable cost.

You can enroll in courses for college credit at the American University in Paris and through New York University. The American University is an independent college of arts and sciences that offers the Bachelor of Arts degree and is accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Secondary Schools.

Public and private golf courses are located within a short drive from Paris.

Hunting and fishing are popular in France. Most areas require permits.

Other special education opportunities include the art appreciation courses offered to the public on a non-examination basis at the Louvre, cooking classes at the Cordon Blue and Ritz-Escoffier cooking schools, and a wine appreciation course. Short courses are offered through various organizations on such subjects as French antiques, art, history, the architecture of Paris, etc. Those with a good knowledge of French can attend evening courses offered by arrondissement civic centers.

Sports Facilities for a variety of sports are available in Paris, but participation often requires membership in a pri-

Tennis is popular with the French, but the number of courts available does not match demand. It is impossible to find a free court on short notice and those who choose to wait may spend up to 2 hours in line. To play regularly, you can book court time on a long-term basis, but the fee is high. Horseback riding is a major national sport. Riding is available for the most casual and the most serious of riders throughout France. Opportunities exist for riding vacations, even promenades of several days. For spectators, riding shows, dressage and jumping competitions, races and horse auctions abound. Other recreational activities within the Paris area include jogging and biking in the Bois de Boulogne (a large, wooded park on the western periphery of the city) and hikes and picnics in the surrounding forests.

Many of Europe’s most renowned ski slopes are within easy reach of Paris. Group arrangements make week-long or weekend skiing inexpensive. The schools, and some congregations, organize a ski week in February for their students at reasonable rates.

Touring Paris provides a wealth of activities ranging from traditional museum visiting to picnicking in the parks. Besides the well-known touristic spots—Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, etc.,—there are day and half-day barge cruises on local canals, tours through Paris’ sewers and catacombs, flea markets to explore, antique shopping, and cafe sitting. Possibilities for day trips or overnight excursions are endless. Within an hour of Paris are many famous chateaux and cathedrals, including Versailles, Fontainebleu, and Chartres. The Loire Valley with its chateaux to the southwest, the 159

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sandy beaches and quaint towns of Normandy to the north, and the Champagne region to the east, can all be reached within 3 hours. An hour away from Paris is EuroDisney.

Entertainment Paris has a wide variety of every imaginable type of entertainment, both French and imported. All events are well publicized in newspapers, street and metro ads, and in weekly publications that list not only theater, opera, and dance, but also museums, exhibitions, and films. Paris produces grand opera, exciting ballet, and plays. During the season there is a constant stream of visiting talent—singers, orchestras, dance groups, theater, etc. Ticket prices for top events are high and sell out quickly for popular shows. Several locations sell tickets for half price, if any remain the day of the event. Subscriptions are available for ballet, opera, and theater. Movies are popular and there is a wide selection of both French and foreign, old and new, dubbed in French, or in the movie’s original language with French subtitles. Prices are slightly higher than in the U.S., but there are discounts on Monday, student reductions, and reduced fares for holders of movie cards available through the major movie houses.

Bordeaux About 754,000 people live in Greater Bordeaux, the capital of both the department of Gironde and the Aquitaine region. Located 35 miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean, Bordeaux remains an important seaport. Reigning over the Garonne River, which flows through its center, Bordeaux recalls the grandeur of 18thcentury France. Beautiful, intricate stone facades mark the majesty of an era when the city served as a gateway to Europe. Wine flowed from Bordeaux to the rest of the 160

Street in Bordeaux, France

world. Montesquieu pondered the significance of the human spirit here. Visitors flocked to absorb the Bordelais version of the famous French joie-de-vivre. Now, as before in its long history, the city maintains its charm. Modern buildings mix with the monuments of the past. Cars roll where carriages used to rattle, but the city preserves the essence of tradition. Visitors, many from the U.S., spend weekend after weekend exploring the beautiful vineyards and chateaux that surround Bordeaux. While enjoying nature, they drink great wines and learn about the colorful wine-making process. The city also lies within easy reach of the mountains and the sea. U.S. representation in Bordeaux dates from 1778 when France formally recognized the independence of the 13 colonies and the Continental Congress appointed commercial agent John Bondfield as a political liaison. In 1790 President George

© Paul Almasy/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Washington commissioned Joseph Fenwick of Maryland as the first American consul to Bordeaux, and the post has been in continuous existence ever since (except during the Franco-American “cold war” of 1798–1800 and the Nazi occupation of 1941–44). In 1962 this oldest known American diplomatic station became a Consulate General. Due to long-term cultural exchanges between this region of France and the U.S., thousands of people apply annually for appropriate visas at the Bordeaux Consulate General. The Consulate General also serves the significant number of Americans visiting or resident in the area. The Bordeaux consular district in clude s 24 depar tme nts ( five regions) in southwestern France and covers almost one-third of continental France. The district contains France’s most famous prehistorical caves, many ancient forts and castles, exquisite churches, and most of

France

Cities of the World France’s ultramodern aerospace industry—civil and military. The Basque region, with its mystifying ancient language, is 2 hours south of Bordeaux toward the Spanish border. Notable other cities in the consular district are Toulouse, Limoges, and Poitiers. About 4,000 American citizens residing in the consular district have registered at the Consulate General (and approximately three times that number are estimated to reside in the district). Of the 4,000 registered, about 450 live in the immediate Bordeaux area.

Food Food of excellent quality and variety is available. Prepared baby foods are expensive, as are some canned or frozen goods. Certain products used in the U.S. are not available here.

Clothing Winters are mild in Bordeaux, but summers range from sweltering to cool. Although generally pleasant, the weather changes frequently. Heavyweight wool suits and dresses are practical in winter under lightweight topcoats. Conservative men’s clothing suitable is fine for Bordeaux. Bring rain gear for all members of the family. The Bordelais dress conservatively and formally by American standards. Business suits are worn by men at weekday social events. White tie is not worn and sports coats are usually suitable for weekend events. Conservative women’s clothing for daytime is the same in Bordeaux as in Washington, D.C. Women rarely wear pants to work. For evening women need several cocktail dresses and at least one long dress. French shoes are beautiful, but expensive, and do not always fit American feet. Since most Americans walk more in Bordeaux than they do in the U.S., bring a good supply of comfortable shoes, especially those practical for wet weather and rough sidewalks.

Most French clothing is expensive. Moderately priced clothes do not sometimes meet U.S. standards of style or fit.

Supplies and Services Supplies: A wide variety of toiletries for men and women is available, but prices are high. Travelers should bring any special home medications or drugs. Most basic household needs are available locally. There is a bookstore specializing in English-language paperbacks and several French-language bookstores also have English-language paperbacks for sale, although highly priced.

Basic Services: L a u n d r y,

drycleaning, and shoe repair are available at prices higher than those in the U.S. The city has no diaper service. Americans use local French doctors and dentists (rarely English-speaking, however) and local doctors’ prescriptions can be easily filled as necessary.

Religious Activities Besides many Catholic churches, Bordeaux has several French Protestant churches, a synagogue, and an Anglican (Episcopal) church that holds services in English.

Education Facilities for elementary, secondary, and university education are good quality. Most school teaching is in French. Children up to age 12 learn the fundamentals of the language quickly and are able to take up work at their proper level after 6 months. Older children usually require supplementary language lessons to enable them to keep up with their schoolwork. Among the public schools are those operated by the municipality and those by the national government (the lycees). Most private schools are run by religious orders. In both public and private schools, hours of attendance and the amount

of homework greatly exceed U.S. standards. Normally classes are not held on Wednesday afternoon but are on Saturday morning. Tuition costs at private schools are reasona b l e b y U. S. s t a n d a r d s. S t a t e schools are free. One English-language instruction school exists in Bordeaux which places children from kindergarten to high school level. The Bordeaux International School was founded with the intention of following the standard British educational program through the GCSE level. It is privately run and funded exclusively by tuition fees. It is suitable for most children who have studied in the U.S. and who prefer not to attempt French-language instruction by immersion. You can request a catalog by writing directly to the school at 53 rue de Laseppe, 33000 Bordeaux.

Special Educational Opportunities The University of Bordeaux has faculties in law, medicine, science, and letters as well as an institute of fine arts, politics, and music. Tuition fees are modest. Their French for foreigners course is particularly recommended for older dependents and spouses who are not French speakers. Adults can study French with private tutors, through a university audiovisual course or at a Berlitz School. Textbooks are readily available in the stores.

Sports Public swimming pools and a gym are available, although sometimes they are reserved for private athletic associations or school groups. The city has several private tennis clubs and a private golf club. Membership dues and initiation fees are high, and club facilities are limited. The area has several private clubs for flying, sailing, riding, fencing, archery, judo, sculling, and gymnastics; for team sports such as basketball, soccer, rugby, and hockey; and for organized activities such as bicycle touring and skiing. Sports equip161

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© Gail Mooney/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Vieux Port, Marseille, France

ment and clothing are sold locally at U.S. prices or slightly higher.

miles), Biarritz (113 miles), and St. Jean de Luz (120 miles).

The most interesting local spectator sports are basketball, soccer, and rugby. There are local (U.S.-type) ice hockey, football, and baseball teams, however, with almost 100 percent French participation.

The Basque country near the Spanish border is popular for hiking, cycling, and camping.

Classic European-type parks are available for children near the office and residences. Neighborhood kindergartens and two public parks have playgrounds with swings and seesaws. Organized sports and activities for children are available (afterhours) at schools or clubs.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Boating, fishing, swimming, or o t h e r wa t e r s p o r t s a b o u n d a t regional coastal resorts. A broad, sandy beach stretches southward 150 miles from the mouth of Gironde to the Spanish border. Principal resort areas are Arcachon (40 162

Skiing in the Pyrénées (3 hours by car) sometimes begins as early as December and can continue until April. These ski resorts are expanding rapidly and facilities are good, but the snow is unreliable. The picturesque Dordogne River Valley has wonderful castles to visit and good hunting, fishing, and camping facilities.

Entertainment During the regular season (October to April) there are plays, operas, ballet, and symphony concerts in Bordeaux and Toulouse. Since 1950, a 3-week music festival in May has brought instrumentalists of world rank, chamber music groups, choruses, orchestras, and theatrical companies to the city. Several mod-

ern movie houses show French, U.S., British, and other films, most dubbed in French. Bordeaux has several excellent small museums. Hobbyists devoted to bridge, chess, photography, the cinema, art, and other activities will be able to find groups sharing their interest.

Social Activities Local residents usually entertain at home with teas, small dinners, or lunch parties. Cocktail parties in homes are infrequent, but cocktailreceptions given outside the home by institutions and organizations are common. Regional cultural patterns require frequent representation to develop and maintain professional and social contacts. Fluent French is essential for professional and social success. Among the business service organizations present in Bordeaux are branches of Lions and Rotary. Chapters of France-Etats Unis (a French association devoted to bettering relations between the two coun-

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Cities of the World tries) are in Bordeaux and many of the district’s larger cities. The Bordeaux Women’s Club, which meets for lunch monthly, is open to all English-speaking women, as is the Bordeaux-Los Angeles Club, an active friendship associations with a young French membership.

Marseille Marseille, the first and oldest port in France, is a busy industrial and shipping center. It has a population over 1.3 million and is one of the largest cities in France. Founded in 600 B.C. by Greek traders from Asia Minor, Marseille became the first Christian metropolis in France. It is a contrast of old and new. Modern buildings and conveniences exist alongside narrow, winding streets and centuries-old structures. The city is colorful, with its picturesque harbor, cliff drive along the sea, and tree-lined boulevards—a typical Mediterranean port city, full of life and vitality, dependent largely on maritime traffic. Situated in the Department of the Bouches du Rhone, Marseille is located 20 miles east of the mouth of the Rhone River. The old city surrounds a small natural harbor which, for 25 centuries, handled all of Marseille’s maritime traffic, but which today is little more than a picturesque marina for fishing boats and yachts at the foot of the Canebierre, the city’s main street. In 1854 new docks were built outside the Old Port, which today extend north of the city. As France’s largest port (the third largest in Europe), it accommodates U.S. aircraft carriers and handles more cargo than any other Mediterranean port. Together with the deep-water port in nearby Fos, Marseille constitutes the largest petroleum port and refinery center in France. About 6,000 Americans, mostly retirees and students, reside in the Marseille consular district, which c o v e r s t h e 1 6 D ep a r t m e n t s o f Ardeches, Aude, Bouches du Rhone, Drome, Gard, Herault, Isère Lozere, Pyrénées Orientales, Var, Vaucluse,

Hautes-Alpes, Alpes-de-HauteProvence, Alpes-Maritimes, HauteCorse, and Corse-du-Sud, as well as the Principality of Monaco. About 50 Americans live in Marseille proper. Thousands of American tourists transit Marseille each year, but few stop over because the city is not an important tourist attraction. The hills around Marseille rise to 1,000 feet over the rocky coastline. T h e c i t y re c e ntl y co m p l e t ed a municipal beachfront development that provides ample space for swimming and windsurfing. The local climate resembles that of Los Angeles, but with little or no smog. The prevailing northerly wind, the Mistral, sometimes blows at gale strength, making winters seem much colder, but also alleviating summer heat and problems of pollution.

Local shops and department stores can be relied on for small items such as scarves, gloves, socks, and underwear.

Supplies and Services Basic Services: Good dressmakers are available, but prices are high. Shoe repair, dry-cleaning, and laundry facilities are adequate, but expensive. Prices at many beauty shops are somewhat less than in the U.S.

Religious Activities The city has many Roman Catholic churches, three French Protestant churches, a Greek Orthodox church, an Armenian Gregorian church, a synagogue, and several foreign churches, including the Swiss Protestant church. The Anglican church holds services in English.

Education Principal officers assigned to Marseille are accredited also to the Principality of Monaco, an area of 447 acres, roughly the size of New York City’s Central Park, with 25,000 inhabitants. France conducts the Principality’s foreign relations in most areas abroad and provides a French citizen to act as Minister of State. The relations are based on an 1861 treaty signed by Napoleon III and the Prince of Monaco, and last renegotiated on July 17, 1981. The present sovereign is Prince Rainier III of the Grimaldi family, the oldest reigning dynasty in Europe.

Food Fresh fruits and vegetables are abundant and of good quality. Buy or eat fish and shellfish only at reputable places. Carefully wash all raw vegetables and fruit.

Clothing Gabardine, tropical-worsted, or wash-and-wear suits and light summer dresses are recommended for summer. Clothing for a Washington, D.C. winter is fine for Marseille’s cold weather. A medium-weight coat will suffice on the coldest days.

Three English-language schools are in the area—the American International School in Nice, the AngloAmerican School in Mougins, and CIPEC, a bilingual English-French school in Aix-en-Provence. Many other schools, public and private, from kindergarten through high school, are available. Instruction is in French. Teachers are good and academic standards high. Most schools have no playground equipment or sports facilities. The school day is longer than in the U.S. Classes are held on Saturday morning (in primary schools) but not on Wednesday in most schools. Public schools accept U.S. children without tuition fees, but students pay for books and supplies. Tuition at Catholic schools varies according to the grades. The undergraduate school, the faculty of letters, and faculty of law of the University of Aix- Marseille are in nearby Aix-en-Provence. The faculties of science and medicine of the University are in Marseille; the schools of architecture, fine arts, and business administration are just east of Marseille at Luminy. 163

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Public sports facilities in and near Marseille are good. A large public sports center has two indoor swimming pools. Several private clubs have pools. Rowing, yachting, and tennis clubs also exist. A golf club is located near Aix-en-Provence, about a 30-minute drive from the city. Hunting, fishing, skin diving, windsurfing, and spearfishing are available; and horseback riding, rugby, soccer, volleyball, and basketball are other popular sports. American football and baseball are becoming increasingly popular. French sporting equipment can be expensive. However, French skin diving and fishing gear (masks, spears, etc.) is less expensive than U.S. brands. Camping equipment is of excellent quality and reasonably priced, but sports clothing is expensive. Hunting weapons or the use of animals in hunting is not restricted. Hunters must buy annual licenses. Each community maintaining a hunting preserve charges a yearly fee for its use.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Marseille is convenient to many large cities: Paris (500 miles), Rome (600 miles), and Barcelona (325 miles). The consular district boasts varied scenery and points of interest. Marseille is linked to Lyon, Paris, and the north by an excellent highway and by the high speed (TGV) train. To the east at Toulon is the French Navy Mediterranean Headquarters, which is visited regularly by units of the U.S. Sixth Fleet. The university cities of Montpelier and Perpignan on the Spanish border are located to the west. The region near Marseille offers excellent opportunities for touring, sight-seeing, hiking, and picnicking. Also available in the district are skiing and mountain climbing in the Alps, as well as fine seaside amusement and recreation on the Cote d’Azur. 164

The historic cities of Arles, Avignon, Nimes, and Orang e are easily reached by train, bus, or car, and the old university town of Aix-enProvence is only 30 minutes away.

Entertainment Several cinemas in Marseille show European and U.S. films with French soundtracks. On occasion, an English-language film with French subtitles is shown. Frequent plays, operas, operettas, ballets, and concerts are performed during the winter. The July music festival of Aix-en-Provence is internationally famous. Plays and operas are held in the Roman theater at Orange and in many other cities. There are many restaurants in Marseille, but they are expensive. American-type nightclubs are few and expensive. Marseille has several worthwhile museums and art galleries. Several trade fairs are held during the year. Local hobby clubs include photograp h y, av i a t i o n , P i n g - p o n g, a n d bridge. During the summer, Sunday bullfights are held at the ancient Roman amphitheaters in Arles and Nimes. Except in winter, horse races are held at tracks in Marseille and Aix-en-Provence. The nearby Riviera handles thousands of tourists each year and has ample entertainment facilities. Carnivals, flower shows, film festivals, auto shows, and open-air theaters are operated in various municipalities and by private groups. Many movie theaters show American films with French soundtracks. Art exhibits and concerts are frequent. Large casinos at Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo, and Juan les Pins sponsor dances, concerts, and theatrical attractions, in addition to gambling.

Social Activities Among Americans: Social activities include dinner parties, lunc h e o n s, a n d r e c e p t i o n s. M o s t entertaining is informal, and buffet dinners are common. Outdoor bar-

becues are popular, so bring the necessary equipment.

International Contacts: T h e Marseillais are friendly and easy to know, but can be reserved about inviting others to their homes.

Special Information The former USIS library has some reference material in English and French. A few Marseille bookstores have small selections of English books, mostly classics. Aix-enProvence has an English bookshop and the British Consulate operates a large English library.

Strasbourg A proud and historic city, Strasbourg is located at the confluence of the Ill and Rhine Rivers on the Franco-German border. The surrounding countryside is picturesque and abounds with recreational opportunities. Like other cities in the Rhine Valley, Strasbourg enjoys a moderate climate, although temperature changes can be abrupt. For most Americans, sunny days are scarce. Although Strasbourg has been an important Rhine River port and European crossroad for more than 2,000 years and is now a dynamic metropolitan area of 427,000 people, the city has retained a pleasing provincial character without the hectic atmosphere of a large capital. Yet, as the seat of the 27-nation Council of Europe and host for the monthly sessions of the European Community’s (EC) directly elected European Parliament, the European Commission, and Court of Human Rights, Strasbourg has a cosmopolitan dimension often lacking in much larger cities. The Council of Europe, with its Ambassadorrank Permanent Representatives, the monthly sessions of the European Parliament, the 15 professional Consulates, and the 17 honorary consuls, give the city the second-largest diplomatic community in France. The frequent meetings of the European Parliament and the Council’s Parliamentary

France

Cities of the World Assembly bring parliamentarians, ministers, and heads of state and government to Strasbourg from all over Europe, as well as from nonEuropean countries.

are sometimes scarce, but you can buy frozen foods in the larger markets. Frozen foods, meats, poultry, and ice cream are more expensive than in the U.S.

But the city is not only a capital for European political institutions. Cultural opportunities include the outs t a n d i n g O p e r a d u R h i n e, a n excellent orchestra, and the only French national theater outside Paris. The University of Strasbourg, with 45,000 students from all over the world, is a recognized leader in the fields science of medicine, law, and economics. Eleven American universities have yearlong study programs here. For the tourist or resident, the historic sections of Strasbourg offer charming walks and almost unlimited gastronomic opportunities. Most newcomers find Strasbourg’s attractions, a unique blend of French and Germanic traditions, and proximity to several other European countries more than compensation for its weather.

Clothing

T h e r e g i o n s n e a r S t r a s b o u r g, including Alsace, Lorraine, and Franche Compte, have a diversified export-oriented economy. Major sectors include: manufacturing, automobile, textile, chemicals, agriculture, and financial services. With more than 12,000 scientists and researchers, the area hosts about 15 percent of the total French scientific resources. Thus, many laboratories and research organizations specializing in biological and electronic technologies are headquartered in the area. More than 72 U.S. multinational corporations have investments in the area, of which the largest are Powertrain, General Motors, EliLilly, Warner-Lambert/Capsugel, Timken, Rohm and Hass, Mars, Wrigley, and Trane. Three of the largest American military c emeteries in France are within the area.

Food All kinds of foods are available in Strasbourg with seasonal limitations. Fresh vegetables in winter

A four-season wardrobe is needed in Strasbourg. Tailors, dressmakers, and quality ready-made clothing are all available, but prices are higher than in the U.S. Footwear is attractive and competitively priced, but many Americans find French sizes a problem. Do not overlook rain gear.

Supplies and Services Supplies: A l l i t e m s n o r m a l l y required for housekeeping and household repairs are found here.

Basic Services: D r y - c l e a n i n g i s about double U.S. prices. Laundries and shoe repair shops are plentiful, and prices are reasonable. The many good beauty shops are cheaper than in the U.S. Several bookstores carry a limited number of books in English. Membership in the American Library in Paris is inexpensive and books can be mailed to members. The International Herald Tribune is available in Strasbourg on the day of publication. Local newsstands also carry Time, Newsweek, and McCall’s. Les Dernieres Nouvelle d’Alsace, Strasbourg’s principal newspaper, is published in French and German, and a number of other leading French papers are available.

Religious Activities The population of Strasbourg is 45 percent Catholic, 35 percent Protestant (Lutherans and Calvinists), 10 percent Jewish, and 10 percent all other faiths. People of all three major faiths attend services regularly. Catholic and Protestant services are held both in French and German. An Anglican Episcopal service in English is held every Sunday. Protestant interdenominational services in English are held twice a month at the Temple Neuf Chapel.

Education Although Strasbourg has many excellent French schools of all types, no English-language elementary or secondary school now exists. The French Government, in recognition of Strasbourg’s position as host city to a number of European institutions, has established a special “international” school (currently with separate primary and secondary school facilities) designed to accommodate children of the foreign community. However, basic instruction is in French.

Special Educational Opportunities Strasbourg has universities that prepare students for degrees in letters, law, political science, economics, science, medicine, and theology. T h e u n i v e r s i t i e s h av e s p e c i a l courses for foreigners in French language and civilization. Students may be enrolled under certain conditions at the Conservatory of Music and the School of Decorative Arts. Private instruction in music and art is available.

Sports The city’s tennis clubs have good clay courts and one club has covered courts. The Strasbourg Golf Club, about 4 miles from the city, set in the charming countryside, has a 9hole course generally playable year round. Indoor swimming is possible at the Schiltigheim municipal pool and at the older Strasbourg municipal bath. Beautiful outdoor swimming pools are available in Strasbourg near the Rhine Bridge, in nearby Kehl across the river, and at Obernai, an attractive town in the Vosges foothills about 30 minutes away. Skiing is available in season in the Vosges and in the Black Forest within less than 50 miles of Strasbourg. The season lasts from December through March. Strasbourg has a fencing club, and a bowling alley is not far from the Consulate General. Some trout fishing is possible in the small streams of the Vosges and the Black Forest. For hunters, Alsace 165

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has a great deal of excellent shooting. Quail, partridge, pheasant, and hare are abundant, and deer and wild boar are in the mountains. Opportunities for horseback riding and lessons are plentiful at Strasbourg, and the surrounding areas of Alsace have numerous clubs offering both ring and trail riding. The Vosges mountains offer the serious hiker and camper invigorating air and scenic vistas. “L’Orangerie” and the “Contade” are two favorite parks for afternoon walks. Athletic competitions of all kinds, including soccer, basketball, tennis, water polo, swimming, boxing, and wrestling, can be seen.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The mountains and foothills of Alsace are dotted with small, picturesque villages. In spite of wartime destruction and intensive rebuilding, many houses remain from the 15th and 16th centuries, and the distinctive Alsatian architecture is attractive and interesting. Many fine examples of Romanesque and Gothic religious architecture, as well as 18th-century civil architecture, can be found all over Alsace. On the foothills and lower slopes of the Vosges are the vineyards of Alsace, which are the sources of some fine white win es and an unusual rosé. Higher up on rocky promontories, the ruins of medieval castles look out over the Rhine plain to the Black Forest in the distance. The Alsatians are French citizens with a Germanic cultural background. Both French and Alsatian, a German dialect, are spoken by nearly everyone. In the countryside, Alsatian predominates and many older peasants do not understand more than a few words of French. German is widely understood and spoken. Several Western European countries are easily accessible from Strasbourg. In Switzerland, Basel is about 80 miles away, Bern 170, and Geneva 219. Paris is 300 miles away. The distance to Heidelberg is 85 miles, to Munich 170, to Frank166

furt 138, to Bonn 214, to Luxembourg 130, and to Innsbruck, Austria 260. Opportunities to visit interesting places are innumerable, and exceptionally good guide books are available here. Baden-Baden, 45 minutes away, has a golf course and a famous casino with a fine restaurant and dancing. Trains are fast, inexpensive, and reliable. Across the Rhine in Germany, the excellent, toll-free autobahn (expressway) system connects Strasbourg with Basel, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, and Munich. A newly competed French autoroute (expressway) makes Paris an easy 4- to 5-hour drive from Strasbourg, but tolls are high. Traffic on French secondary roads is intense, particularly at certain times of the day and in the summer. Gasoline prices are the highest in Europe. Unleaded gasoline is available in Strasbourg and nearby Germany.

Entertainment Municipal theaters provide a full program of play, concerts, ballets, operas, and operettas. The city’s radio-TV station gives free tickets to various concerts held throughout the year. The opera, symphony orchestra, and municipal ballet are particularly good, and many wellknown chamber orchestras, quartets, and soloists come here on tour. A music festival is held every June with eminent visiting artists and first-class orchestras. Strasbourg has about 20 cinemas. Movies are in French and occasionally in English. Most British and American pictures are shown with French soundtracks.

Social Activities The presence of the Council of Europe, with its resident ambassadors and 1300-person secretariat composed of citizens from 44 countries, gives social life an international and cosmopolitan dimension. Social functions are frequent and tend toward sit-down dinners and receptions rather than informal affairs, although the business lunch is well established. Although no American club or organization

exists in Strasbourg, the local binational association, Alsace-EtatsUnis, organizes a number of events with an American flavor.

Special Information Strasbourg is considered one of the best medical centers in France. Excellent doctors and surgeons are available. Hospital care is excellent. All the latest drugs are known and used, and the Hopital Civil and some of the clinics are equipped with diagnostic laboratories. Oculists and dentists are plentiful. Several good veterinarians also practice in Strasbourg.

Lyons Lyons (Lyon), which forms the core of the second largest metropolitan area in France with a population of about 1.3 million, is the country’s third largest city. It is at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers, some 300 miles southeast of Paris. Old Lyons lies between the rivers and up the hill on the west bank of the Saône. More recently, the city has grown on the east bank of the Rhône and west into the foothills bordering the Saône. The population of the city proper is about 453,000. The climate is similar to that of Washington, DC; it is humid, but snow or long hot spells are rare. Lyons takes pride in its history, which goes back to Gallo-Roman times when it was Lugdunum, the Roman capital of Gaul. The emperors Claudius and Caracalla were born here. Many remaining buildings and artifacts remind residents and visitors alike of Lyons’ origins in antiquity, including the oldest Roman amphitheater remains in Fr a n c e ; i t s i m po r t a n c e i n t h e growth of French Catholicism; and its one-time role as the leading silk and cloth manufacturing city in the Western world. However, the city is not all history. It has a new metro system, one of the largest shopping centers in Europe, world headquarters for Interpol and the International Congress Center, and a modern interna-

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Cities of the World tional airport, Satolas. In October 1988, the city released a plan called “Lyon 2010,” which lays the guidelines for the next decades’ city growth. Included in the plan is the development of access routes into the city, 13 more miles of metro lines, expanded bus, train, and airplane service, renovations to the Musée des Beaux-Arts and a new concert hall and opera house. Lyons is a well-maintained and clean city where the old and the new are integrated into an attractive whole. Houses virtually unchanged since the 17th century, multi-storied office complexes reaching for the sky, wide tree-lined boulevards, and beautiful parks blend to make this a lovely, livable metropolis, whose residents still consider the traditional art of French cooking important enough to take a two-hour lunch. The illumination of the city’s buildings and monuments was completely redesigned, making Lyons’ night skyline a visual delight. And Bellencour, the geographical heart of the city, is the largest city-center square in Europe. Lyons, a world-famous medical center, particularly in cancer research, has excellent medical facilities readily available. There are numerous fine large hospitals, but Americans have used the French Clinique or private hospitals for their needs. The city boasts the oldest stock exchange in France (founded in 1506), a 178-year-old university, and several excellent museums. Lyons’ museums are generally smaller than those in Paris and are usually dedicated to an aspect of the city’s history or customs, although the Musée des Beaux-Arts is the second largest fine arts museum in France. The first U.S. Foreign Service post in Lyons opened in 1826, when Ja m e s Fe n i m o r e C o o p e r w a s appointed as its consul. The U.S. Consulate General in Lyons is located at 7, Quai General Sarrail.

Schools for Foreigners Excellent French schools of all types abound in Lyons, but there are no

American or English schools in the district. All instruction is in French. Some children, who have been exposed to the language at home or in previous schools, enroll locally and do well in their classes, but it should be understood that French fluency is a prerequisite. A few private bilingual schools exist and the Lycée Jean Perrin has opened international sections in English, German, and Spanish to accommodate Lyons’ international community. Accessible and desirable educational facilities can be found in Switzerland and Belgium, as well as in Paris. However, unless Englishlanguage education is a necessity, the fine schools of Lyons and other university towns in the district (Dijon, Grenoble, Clermont-Ferrand, and Saint-Étienne) should be seriously considered. Lyons’ excellent universities offer a multitude of courses. Ample cultural, artistic, and musical facilities are also available.

Recreation and Entertainment Lyons is a convenient point for travel within France or to nearby Switzerland and Italy. An inexhaustible supply of touring sites, historical monuments, and museums is available for every taste. Virtually every known recreational activity has its followers in Lyons, and the area probably has a greater variety of recreational advantages, facilities, and resorts than any other in France. All major European sports are popular. Most of the French Alps lie within the district and provide excellent skiing, hiking, and climbing. Lyons also offers facilities for swimming, golf, tennis, and other sports. The 1992 Winter Olympics was centered at Albertville, approximately 75 miles east of Lyons in the Savoy Alps. Competition was spread throughout 640 square miles in the region.

There are several markets in Lyons for browsing, including an arts and crafts market held every Sunday, book markets, animal markets, and the one of the largest antique markets in Europe. The types of entertainment found in any major U.S. city are readily available, popular, and reasonably priced in Lyons. However, the city is conservative compared to Paris, and the nightlife is surprisingly quiet.

Nice Nice, in the Département of AlpesMaritimes, is in the renowned Riviera resort area, 30 miles from Italy and 100 miles from Marseille. The city’s international airport is twoand-a-half miles from the center of town. It handles more passenger traffic than any other airport in France outside Paris. Daily flights link Nice with all parts of the world. Work has been completed south of the airport to extend the facilities in order to meet the demands of the area. Besides an advantageous location, Nice has an excellent climate and a stimulating variety of official, social, and cultural contacts. The population of Greater Nice, which stretches from the Var River to the independent corporation of L’Abadie, is now 889,000, making it the fifth largest city in France. Most of Nice’s labor force is employed in tourist-related occupations. Next to tourism in economic importance is the cut flower trade. The Nice wholesale flower market ships its products to distant points and to the large perfume-essence industry in nearby Grasse. Light industry, electronics, and construction are also important employers in the Nice area. Nice was founded as Nicaea by a colony of Ionian Greeks from ancient Massilia (Marseille) in the fifth century B.C. It has had a history of domination by the Romans, the Saracens, the counts of Provence, the House of Savoy, the French, and 167

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© Owen Franken/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Bridge over Rhone River in Lyons, France

the Turks. It was ceded to France by Savoy in 1860. Nice is the birthplace of Guiseppe Garibaldi, the 19th-century Italian patriot and soldier. As a resort town, Nice has a pleasing, well-rounded character. It has miles of lovely promenades on the sea, an opera house, theaters, casinos, and many good restaurants, and is especially lively between January and April. Nearby mountains serve as a scenic backdrop and as a protection from cold winds. Best of all, there is sunshine about 325 days a year.

Schools for Foreigners The American International School (AIS) on the Coté d’Azur is located in Saint-Laurent-du-Var, just outside Nice. It opened in September 1977 and provides education from kindergarten through grade 12. Several U.S. companies in the area (IBM, Texas Instruments, Rohm, and Haas) have contributed to a fast-growing enrollment, and the school now is in new facilities near 168

the Var River, with a view of the Maritime Alps. AIS offers an American-type curriculum to its students, and provides preparation and testing for college enrollment. Individualized programs are fitted to the needs of each student. The school’s address is Quartier de la Tour, La Baronne, 06700 Saint Laurent-du-Var, France. Kindergarten through grade four are also taught at the Monaco Primary School section, located at Fortvieille, Stade Louis II, Monaco 98000. French public schools will admit American children of all ages, but courses, study methods, and procedures differ from those in the U.S. It takes the average American child a difficult period of six months to a year to become fluent in French. There are many private day and boarding schools along the Riviera; instruction is in French. To be admitted to the University of Nice, the applicant must be fluent

in the language and have earned the equivalent of the French baccalaureate (baccalauréat), about 35 credit hours of American undergraduate study. The Centre Universitaire Méditerranéen, an adjunct to the university, offers special courses for foreigners, ranging from six to 19 hours a week. Cost varies per semester.

Recreation As a tourist site, the Riviera is j u s t l y f a m o u s. N i c e, i t s m o s t renowned resort, is in Provence, a region with numerous places of scenic beauty and historical and artistic interest. Mountain resorts are nearby for winter sports. The ski stations of Valber, Auron, and Isola 2000 can be reached by car in less than two hours, and several Italian resorts are within four hours’ drive. All sports equipment and attire are similar in style to those in the U.S., but prices are higher. Equipment

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Cities of the World may be rented at the ski resorts, and lessons are available. Ample facilities also exist for other sports. Golf courses are located within 30 to 45 minutes of the city, and there are several tennis clubs in Nice and nearby cities. The most popular outdoor activity is ocean swimming, made possible five months of the year by the moderate climate. Wind surfing is a new sport which has become very popular.

Entertainment The Riviera hosts thousands of tourists each year and has ample entertainment facilities. Carnivals, flower shows, film festivals, auto shows, and open-air theaters are operated in various municipalities and by private groups. Many movie theaters show American films with French soundtracks. Art exhibits and concerts are frequent. Near Nice, museums of French impressionist painters Matisse (the Matisse Museum) and Chagall (the Marc Chagall National Museum) may be enjoyed by art lovers and art critics alike. Other art m u se u m s i n cl u d e t h e A n a t o l e Jakowsky International Museum of Naive Art and the Jules Chéret Museum of Fine Arts which houses paintings from Vanloo to Picasso. Large casinos at Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo, and Juan-les-Pins sponsor dances, concerts, and theatrical attractions, in addition to gambling. Many excellent restaurants offer regional French and Italian cuisine, as well as other traditional specialties. Prices for theaters, opera, and restaurants are about the same as in the U.S. Monaco’s National Day celebration on November 19, the feast of Prince Rainier’s patron saint, includes a mass and Te Deum at the cathedral, luncheon at the palace, an afternoon football match, and a gala at the Monte Carlo Opera in the evening. Nice offers a wide range of artistic entertainment. The National Theatrical Centre presents outstanding seasons; an Italian Film Festival

draws increasingly large crowds in December; a Choreographic Festival hosts the greatest international dancers. Opera can be enjoyed in Nice from November to April, the Holy Music Festival is in June, and the Great Jazz Parade is in July.

road center in World War I, Nancy was unsuccessfully attacked by Germans in 1914, but was partially destroyed by heavy bombardment. During World War II, American forces reached the city on September 5, 1944, taking it 10 days later.

A number of facilities in the Nice area are geared toward the thousands of English-speaking residents and tourists. The International Herald Tribune and popular American magazines are sold at local newsstands. An English bookstore in Nice carries a good selection of classic and contemporary writers. An English-American library on the grounds of the English church has a varied, although somewhat dated, selection of books. The Nice-Matin is the most important local daily newspaper. Several weekly and biweekly papers are also published.

Landmarks in Nancy include an 18th-century cathedral, the Gothic church of St. Épyre, the 17th-century town hall, the 16th-century Palais Ducal (this palace contains a museum of Lorraine’s rich past), and the Place de la Carrière. The 15th-century Church of Cordeliers houses the tombs of the princes of Lorraine.

Nancy Situated on the Meurth River and Marne-Rhine Canal, Nancy is the economic, administrative, and educational center of Lorraine Province. The city is located in northeastern France, about 178 miles east of Paris and 75 miles west of Strasbourg. The capital of Meurthe-et-Moselle Département, Nancy sits on the outer perimeter of the large Lorraine iron fields and, because of this, it is an industrial city known for manufacturing foundry products, boilers, electrical equipment, ironware, and machine tools. Historically, Nancy grew up around a castle of the dukes of Lorraine, becoming the capital in the 12th century. In 1477, the gates of the city were the scene of a battle in which Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy, was defeated and killed by René II, duke of Lorraine. Stanislaus I, duke of Lorraine from 1738 through 1766, resided in Nancy and, during that time, the city was a model of urban planning and 18thcentury architecture. Nancy became part of France in 1766, and from 1870 to 1873 was occupied by the Germans following the FrancoPrussian War. An important rail-

In the heart of the city is the Place Stanislas. An imposing statue occupies the center of this large, paved square, enclosed by monumental buildings and decorated with green fountains and golden railings. The 18th and 20th centuries merge beneath the great statue of Stanislas, once king of Poland and the last duke of Lorraine. Stanislas built the square bearing his name in the middle of Nancy, between the 10th-century Ville Vieille (old city) and the 15th-century Ville Neuve (new city). Nancy has an art museum, academy o f f in e a r ts, an d a u ni ve rs it y, founded in 1854, that has colleges of mining, metallurgy, engineering, dairy science, chemistry, and commerce. In addition to faculties of science, law, arts and medicine, there is also an attached teaching hospital. Nancy ’s cu rr ent popula tion is 106,000.

Recreation Present-day Nancy has its science museums of geology, zoology, and scientific art. The Museum of Fine Arts, just a short walk from the Place Stanislas, houses over six centuries of canvasses of mostly French and Italian painters, including Delacroix, Manet, Vlaminck, and Modigliani. At Jarville, just outside of Nancy, is the Iron Museum, unmatched anywhere. Educational and fascinating, the museum also contains contemporary architec169

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ture. There is also a Motor Museum and a zoo—Forêt de Haye. Nancy has several stadiums, gymnasiums, and swimming pools. During winter, there is skiing in the Vosges every weekend, just an hour’s drive away.

Entertainment Nancy after dark is a little Latin and a little Oriental, and a town of measured refinement, with countless details to be enjoyed. The city has many restaurants, large and small, all of which excel in the standard French dishes as well as the local specialties of quiche, potée, and pike, and accompanied by beer or the local wine, vin gris. Discothéques, clubs, and other places for dancing, singing and enjoying oneself abound in Nancy. The World Theatre Festival is held in the city every two years. During the 10 days of the festival, connoisseurs mingle with authors, actors with producers, and novices with specialists. In autumn, Nancy plays host to a jazz festival. The 10-day festival, featuring musicians from three continents, is a marathon of pulsating sound, explosive rhythm, and irresistible sensations. In addition to the two festivals, there is the Grand Théâtre, many cinemas, and visiting performers. Merry-gorounds of the fair in Place Carnot bring delight to thousands of young and old for a month each summer.

Caen Caen, in northwestern France, is situated on the Orne River, about nine miles from the English Channel coast and 126 miles northwest of Paris. With a population of nearly 117,000, Caen is a busy port canalized directly to the sea by Napoleon I. Due to improvements made to the canal, allowing present-day access to ships over 30,000 tons, it deals with millions of tons of traffic a year. A magnificent stretch of water has been adapted and reserved for sailing enthusiasts. 170

An industrial city with a thermal power station and extensive steel works along the Orne River, Caen is also near the country’s second largest iron-ore mines. Items manufactured in Caen include automobiles, electronic gear, heavy equipment, textiles, and lace. Historically, Caen was a favorite residence of William the Conqueror, and was under English rule in 1346 and from 1417 to 1450. During World War II, it was one of the main objects of the Allied invasion of Normandy. Attacked by the British on June 6, 1944 (D-Day), Caen became part of the German defense line. It was attacked again on June 25, taken by British and Canadian forces on July 9, and consequently, many of its architectural landmarks were almost totally destroyed. The 14th-century Church of St. Peter’s lost its spire, while the Castle of William the Conqueror and the 17th-century town hall were both destroyed beyond repair. Some examples of 11th-century Norman architecture did survive and include the Abbaye aux Hommes where William the Conqueror is buried; Abbaye aux Dames, founded by Queen Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, in 1066; and the Church of St. Nicholas. The city has a university, founded by Henry VI of England in 1432, which was destroyed and later rebuilt. The University of Caen has about 15,500 students. With its new theater, the Museum of Arts, and M u s e u m o f N o r m a n d y, C a e n remains the cultural, intellectual, and artistic center it has been since the Middle Ages. From Caen, it is easy to reach the large seaside resorts along the Channel coast (Côte Fleurie, from Franceville to Honfleur) and also to the famous beaches where the Allied Forces landed in 1944 (Côte de Nacre and Bessin, from RivaBella to Isigny).

Le Havre Le Havre is France’s most important port for transatlantic passen-

ger liners. A city of 193,000, it is in the Seine-Maritime Département of northern France, at the mouth of the Seine on the English Channel. Le Havre is also a major port for exports from the Paris region as well as northwestern France. An important industrial center, its industries include sugar and oil refining and shipbuilding. Heavy equipment and electrical equipment are manufactured here. Le Havre was founded in 1517 as Havre-deGrace and, by the 18th century, had passed Rouen, Nantes, and Bordeaux in importance. The city was developed as a port from the 16th century and was a naval base under Napoleon I. It was a major Allied base during World War I and, during World War II, it was occupied by t h e G e r m a n s f r o m Ju n e 1 9 4 0 through September 1944. Like so many other French cities, it was heavily damaged during World War II, but is now rebuilt. Points of interest in Le Havre include the church of Notre Dame, the round tower of Francis I, an arsenal, and a theater. The resort suburb of Ste.-Adresse adjoins Le Havre and has a fine beach. Four miles east of Le Havre is the seaport of Harfleur, once a chief port of France. Opposite Le Havre on the Seine estuary is the seaport of Honfleur. Once a center for exploration, it is today known for its tourism industry. Étretat is another resort town near Le Havre.

Lille Lille, formerly Lisle, is the capital of Nord Département in northern France. Situated near the Belgian border and about 130 miles northeast of Paris, Lille has a population of about 191,000, and about one million in the metropolitan area. Lille was the center of industrial expansion in the 1960s that led to the establishment of a metropolitan community uniting nearly 90 towns. Including the cities of Tourcoing, Roubaix, Béthune, Bruay, and Lens, among others, this area is now France’s richest economic region

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Cities of the World and one of Europe’s most important urban centers. A commercial, cultural, and manufacturing center, Lille is known for its textile products, but also produces iron, steel, machinery, and chemicals. There are brewing, distilling, and sugar refining facilities within the city. Founded about 1030, Lille was the medieval capital of Flanders until given to the king of France in 1312. The city changed hands several times before it was restored to France via the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. One of the principal fortifications in northern France at the onset of World War I, Lille was occupied by the Germans from October 1914 to October 1918. During World War II, the Germans again occupied the city, from June 1940 until September 1944. Principal buildings in Lille include a huge citadel; a 17th-century stock exchange; two 15th-century churches; a 16th-century church; and an unfinished cathedral, begun in 1854. Lille has a large university, established in 1560, and one of the most important art museums in Europe, which includes paintings of Flemish, Dutch, French, and Spanish masters. The seaport of Calais is located 60 miles northwest of Lille on the Strait of Dover. Known for its lacemaking, Calais has a population of 77,000.

Montpellier A great commercial center, Montpellier is located in southern France near the Mediterranean Sea. The capital of Hérault Département, Montpellier is 77 miles northwest of Marseille and has a population of 229,000. During the 10-year period from 1960 through 1970, the city’s population increased nearly 70 percent, due in part to a large influx of refugees from Algeria. Montpellier’s industries include salt working, textile milling, food processing, and printing. The city manufactures metal items and

chemicals, and has a large wine, fruit, and vegetable market. Montpellier dates from the eighth century, when it was the center of a fief under the Toulouse counts. In the 13th century it passed to the kings of Majorca and, in 1349, was purchased by Philip VI of France. As a Huguenot center, Montpellier was taken by Louis XIII in 1622. Today, Montpellier is best known for its university, founded in 1220 by Cardinal Conrad. Suppressed by the French Revolution, it was reestablished as a university in 1896. In 1970, it was divided into three units. The university’s medical school can be traced to the 10th century; its most famous student was Rabelais. Montpellier has agricultural and military schools and is the home of an international wine festival. Here also is the oldest botanical garden in France, founded in 1593. Notable structures in the city include a château, citadel, 14th-century cathedral, palace of justice and triumphal arch in Doric architecture. Just south of Montpellier is the seaside resort of Sète. A city of 40,000, Sète is the principal seaport of southern France, after Marseille, with a large export trade in wine.

Nantes N a n t e s, w i t h a p o p u l a t i o n o f 278,000, is the capital of the LoireMaritime Département in western France. Situated on the Loire River 107 miles west of Tours, it is an important industrial and shipping center; its ocean port is SaintNazaire. Nantes is the home of several educational institutions, and the seat of an episcopal see. The city (once called Condivincum) was the capital of ancient Namnetes before the Roman conquest of Gaul. The Huns, the Normans, and the dukes of Brittany all laid siege to Nantes throughout the centuries and, in 1499, it became part of France upon the marriage of Anne of Brittany to King Louis XII. Dur-

ing the French Revolution, it was the scene of a violent massacre and mass drownings. Nantes was a major center of resistance in World War II. There are numerous museums, concert halls, theaters, and sports facilities located throughout Nantes. The city is known for its many festivals and fairs including a commercial fair, musical festival, preLenten carnival, and several folk festivals. The industrial commune of Rezé is located opposite Nantes, on the Loire. With a population of 37,000, the city manufactures hats, furniture, shoes, and rugs.

Reims Reims (or Rheims) is one of the French cities historically connected with the heroic Joan of Arc. A city of 191,000, it is located in the Champagne region in the northeastern part of the country. Reims was once the customary place for the crowning of kings of France. Joan of Arc stood at the side of Charles II (the dauphin) at his coronation in 1429 in the beautiful Reims cathedral—the historic structure was later extensively damaged in both the Franco-Prussian War (1870) and World War I. Restoration was made possible by a Rockefeller Foundation grant, and the cathedral was reopened in 1938. It remains the city’s most renowned building. Reims is surrounded by vineyards and, since the 18th century, has been the center of France’s champagne industry. It once was equally famous for its woolen textiles. Reims was the site of the unconditional surrender of Germany on May 7, 1945. Since it was rebuilt after heavy damage in both world wars, Reims today is a new city with modern buildings. There is an extensive network of caves beneath the city, used for the storage of wines. Textiles, machinery, and glass are also produced in Reims. 171

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Rouen Rouen, a city of 109,000 today, is probably best known for the events that took place in 1431. Two years after her victory over the English at Orléans, Joan of Arc was tried, sentenced to death, and burned here at the stake. The capital of Seine-Maritime Département, Rouen is located in northern France about 70 miles northwest of Paris. The city is entirely surrounded by woods and forests of an immense variety of trees. With its suburbs, Rouen numbers some 390,000 inhabitants. Situated on the right bank of the Seine River near its mouth at the English Channel, Rouen functions as the port of Paris and handles a large volume of traffic. It has 15 miles of quays equipped with every modern facility. Wine, grain, livestock, sugar, and petroleum products are shipped from Rouen. Items manufactured within the city include chemicals, drugs, textiles, paper, leather goods, and metal products. Industries include shipyards, oil refineries, and railroad shops. Rouen was founded in pre-Roman times and was taken and burned by the Normans in the ninth century. A century later, it was the capital of Normandy and one of the leading cities of Europe. It was occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War, 1418-49, by the Huguenots in 1562, and by the Germans in 1870. Rouen suffered heavy damage from Allied bombing during World War II and was taken by the Allies on August 31, 1944; the city and much of its port had to be reconstructed. The city has been an archiepiscopal see since the fifth century and has many churches and cathedrals. Damaged, but now restored, are the cathedral of Notre Dame (built during the 12th through 15th centuries) with its well-known Tour de Beurre (butter tower); the palace of justice and Church of St. Maclou (both constructed during the 15th and 16th centuries); and the 172

Cities of the World Renaissance clock tower—Gros Horloge. Landmarks honoring Joan of Arc are the 14th-century Abbey of Saint Ouen, where she was sentenced to death, and the Place de la Pucelle, where she died. Conducted tours of all historical places are undertaken twice daily in the summer. The birthplaces of dramatist Pierre Corneille (1606-1684) and author Gustave Flaubert (1821-1880) have been preserved and are currently museums. The Musée des BeauxArts is one of the most important in France, including masterpieces by Delacroix and Ingres. Paintings of the Italian, Flemish, and Dutch schools are found, as well as a rich collection of the French masters of the 17th and 18th centuries and the Impressionists. There is also a very important collection of faïence— Rouen-ware. All major sports are represented in Rouen. Rowing and canoeing are possible on Île Lacroix and yachting may be done at Duclair and Hénouville. An 18-hole golf course is located at Mont-Saint-Aignan. Football, at the Football Club Rouennais; riding at area riding schools; and horse racing are all available in the Rouen area. Motor racing on the Rouen Les Essarts circuit, occurs in July.

Toulon Toulon, a seaport in southeastern France on the Mediterranean Sea, has a population of 166,000. Locate d 30 miles southeast of Marseille, Toulon is an important industrial center and commercial port. In addition, it is the principal base of the French Mediterranean fleet, with docks, naval shipyards, and an arsenal. Major industries include shipbuilding, ship repairing, fishing, and wine making. Figs, almonds, vegetable oils, bauxite, chemicals, machinery, furniture, and cork are produced. Toulon is also a winter resort.

Historically, Toulon was first mentioned as a Roman naval station in the third century. It became prominent during the Middle Ages as a hostel for Crusaders. Toulon was the scene of many historic naval battles, including the victory of Napoleon over French, English, and Spanish royalists in 1793. Napoleon gained prominence that same year by retaking Toulon for the French and, after 1815, the city became the center of French naval power. During World War I, Toulon was an important naval station and port of entry. During World War II, a large part of the French Mediterranean fleet was stationed at Toulon after the French armistice of 1940. On November 27, 1942, the majority of the ships were scuttled by their crews to avoid capture by the Germans. The city suffered considerable damage before it was entered by French troops on August 22, 1944. The subsequent reconstruction retained much of Toulon’s original charm. Landmarks preserved include the Church of St. Marie Majeure, built during the 17th and 18th centuries, and a 13th-century cathedral. Toulon also has a naval museum.

Toulouse Toulouse is one of the country’s great commercial centers. It is situated on the Garonne River in southern France, and is capital of the Haute-Garonne Département. It is 133 miles southeast of Bordeaux and Metropolitan Toulouse has a population of approximately 761,000. The city was part of Gaul, then became the Visigoth capital and, later, the capital of the Carolingian kingdom of Aquitaine (781-843). It was one of medieval Europe’s cultural centers. Toulouse and the surrounding area became a separate country in 843, and did not pass to the French Crown until 1271; considerable autonomy was allowed the region until the French Revolution. In World War II, Toulouse was occu-

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Cities of the World pied by the Germans for almost two years. Toulouse houses the university which bears its name (founded in 1229), and the Académie des Jeux Floraux, which was chartered in 1323. The “old quarter” of the city remains much the same as it was in the 18th century. Today, Toulouse is a center of the French aviation industry and produces fertilizer, ammunition, paper, footwear, and tobacco. It is a market for the surrounding agricultural region and a distribution center for textiles.

OTHER CITIES AIX-EN-PROVENCE is located in southeastern France about 19 miles north of Marseille. A picturesque town of 137,000, Aix-en-Provence is a favorite sojourn for painters and was the birthplace of the artist Paul Cézanne (1839-1906). It is also an important tourist center known for the International Music Festival held here in July, as well as a commercial center in an area that produces olives, grapes, and almonds. Products manufactured in Aix-enProvence include wine-making equipment and electrical apparatus. Historically, the city was founded as a military colony by the Romans in 123 B.C., and was the site of the defeat of the Teutons by Marius in 102 B.C. An archiepiscopal see in the fifth century, Aix-en-Provence has been the capital of Provence since the 12th century, becoming part of France in 1487. It was the seat of parliament in Provence from 1501 to 1789. Aix-en-Provence has been a cultural center, a music center, and the focus of Provençal literature since the Middle Ages. Its university, founded in 1409, was combined with one in Marseille. Aix-en-Provence’s Cathedral of Saint-Sauveur was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The city is also known for its therapeutic spa and a number of thermal treatment centers.

Situated in a fertile farm region, ALENÇON is a commercial center and the capital of Orne Département. Located in northwestern France on the Sarthe River, Alençon is 105 miles southwest of Paris and has a population of 29,000. The town is particularly known for its lace work, an industry that dates back to the 17th century; there is a school of lacework in town. Printing plants, sawmills, spinning mills, and ore quarries are also found in Alençon. Originally the center of the medieval territory of Alençon, the town was successively a lordship, county, and duchy. Alençon was heavily damaged during World War II, and taken by American forces in August 1944. Historic landmarks include Notre Dame Church, with 16th-century windows and porch; St. Leonard’s Church, completed in Gothic style in 1505; and the 15thcentury Ozé House. Northeast of Alençon is the town of Mortagne, with a population of 5,000. Its church of Notre Dame was built during the 15th and 16th centuries. AMIENS, a manufacturing city, is situated on the Somme River in northern France, 30 miles south of the English Channel and 72 miles north of Paris. The capital of Somme Département, with a population of 139,000, Amiens has been an important textile center since the 16th century and is famous for velvet. The city also is a market and rail center for the truck farming carried on in the surrounding marshlands. Chemicals, tires, soap, and electrical equipment are manufactured in Amiens. The city was originally a Gallo-Roman town and an episcopal see since the fourth century. As the historic capital of Picardy, it was overrun and occupied by many invaders. Passed to Burgundy by the Peace of Arras in 1435, Amiens was returned to France at the death of Charles the Bold in 1477. It was captured by the Spanish in 1597 and then recovered by Henry IV. Amiens was the scene of the Treaty of Amiens, signed in 1802 between France and Britain. The city was captured by the Prussians in 1870, and was held by the Germans for a short time in 1914. The Battle of

Amiens, fought in August 1918, was part of the successful counteroffensive against Germany. In World War II, Amiens was occupied by the Germa n s f r o m M ay 19 4 0 t h r o u g h August 1944. The city was devastated during the war and, since 1945, has been rebuilt mostly in medieval style. The Cathedral of Notre Dame, begun about 1220, is the largest Gothic cathedral in France, and one of the leading representatives of Gothic architecture in Europe. It is 470 feet long and has a 140-foot-high nave. The 370foot spire and large rose window were added in the 16th century. Abbeville, with a population of 25,000, is 25 miles northwest of Amiens. Also nearby is the underground village of Naours, discovered in 1887. ANGERS, with a population of approximately 156,000, is the capital of Maine-et-Loire Département. The city lies on the Maine River, 165 miles southwest of Paris, in westcentral France. Angers has a number of medieval buildings including the 12th-century Cathedral of St. Maurice, the Abbey of St. Aubin, and a 13th-century castle. Industries include rope making cables, and leather goods manufacturing. There are several educational institutions here. ANGOULÊME, with a population of 43,000, is a former river port and now a major road and rail center. It is situated in western France on the Charente River, about 64 miles northeast of Bordeaux. Angoulême is the capital of Charente Département. Paper-making is a major industry here, dating back to the 15th century; the city also has copper foundries, electric motor plants, and soap and shoe factories. The history of Angoulême dates back to A.D. 507, when it was conquered by Clovis, King of Franks; that year, Clovis also built the city’s first cathedral. In the ninth century, Angoulême became the seat of the counts of Angoumois. It was ceded to England via the Peace of Bretigny in 1360 and was restored to France in 1373 by Charles V. Passing to the 173

France house of Orléans in 1394, Angoulême was the center of the duchy created by Francis I, 15151844. The cathedral of St. Pierre, begun about 1110, is one of the city’s landmarks. Just west of Angoulême is the city of Cognac. It belonged to Richard the Lionhearted and later, in the latter part of the 16th century, became a Protestant stronghold. The French brandy to which the city gives its name has been manufactured and exported since the 18th century. Cognac’s population is 20,000. A popular French tourist resort, ANNECY is located in southeaste r n Fr a n c e, 2 0 m i l e s s o u t h o f Geneva, Switzerland. The town of 50,000 is situated in the northern Alps on Lake Annecy and is 63 miles northeast of Lyons. The center of the city has a distinctly medieval look, with many narrow, flowerfringed canals traversing the area. Fed by the underground springs of Lake Annecy, the canals are so clear that the bottoms are visible. Annecy has several churches, monasteries, and seminaries. Overlooking the city on a hill is the castle of the counts of Geneva, built during the 1 2 t h t h r o u g h 1 4 t h c e n t u r i e s. Besides tourism, Annecy has printing plants and factories that manufacture jewelry, leather, and wood products. The city also produces cotton yarn and linens, and a noted bell foundry is nearby. Although today an important railroad and industrial center, ARLES is probably best known as the home of painters Vincent Van Gogh and Paul Gauguin. Located in southeastern France about 45 miles northwest of Marseille, Arles has a population of 52,000. Situated on the left bank of the Rhône River, the city is connected by canal to the Mediterranean Sea. Industries in Arles include shipbuilding, paper, and chemicals; grapes and olive trees are grown in the area. As Arelas, it was a flourishing Roman town and the metropolis of Gaul late in the Roman Empire era, as well as the birthplace of Constantine II. In the 12th century, Arles 174

Cities of the World became a free city ruled by an elected podestà (magistrate) who then appointed other officials; it retained this special status until the French Revolution. Today, Arles has many landmarks from its past. These include a Roman arena, built in the second century and now used for bullfights. There is also a Roman theater; the Aliscamps (Elysian Fields), a Roman cemetery; the Church of St. Trophime, built between the 11th and 15th centuries; and a 17th-century town hall. The Museon Arlaten, a museum of Provençal folklore and culture, is also in Arles. The manufacturing town of Uzès is located to the east of Arles. A ducal palace and cathedral may be found there. ARRAS is the capital of Pas-de-Calais Département in northern France. Situated on the canalized Scarpe River, Arras is 25 miles southwest of Lille, and has a population of 41,000. An industrial, farm, and communications center, Arras has oil works and machinery and metal products factories. Historically, Arras was of Gallo-Roman origin and an episcopal see by the year 500. An important international banking and trade center by the tenth century, Arras became a center of culture and wealth in the 14th century, particularly known for tapestry. The city was the scene of the signing of two treaties in the 15th century. The latter treaty, ending the war between Maximilian I of Austria and Louis XV of France in 1482, made the city part of France. Arras was ceded to Maximilian of Austria in 1493 and was held by the Spanish branch of the Hapsburgs until 1640, when it was taken by L o u i s X I I I . A r r a s wa s n e a r l y destroyed by shellfire during World War I and further damaged during World War II. The city has, however, retained much of its Spanish-Flemish flavor. The town square is surrounded by 17th-century buildings in Flemish architecture. The town hall (built in the 16th century), the large bell tower, and the Abbey of St. Vaast (built in the 18th century) have all been restored. The abbey houses a museum today.

Nine miles north of Arras is the city of Avion, with a population of 23,000. It was the scene of severe fighting from April to June 1917. To the east of Arras is the industrial city of Cambrai. Known for its linen goods, especially cambric and cambresine which were named for the city, Cambrai has a population of 34,000. AUCH is located in southwestern France on the Gers River in Gascony, about 100 miles southeast of Bordeaux. The capital of Gers Département, Auch is a commercial center and farm market known for the production and trade of Armagnac brandy, wine, and grain. Historically, Auch was one of Roman Gaul’s chief towns. It was the capital of Armagnac and an archiepiscopal see in the 10th century, and the capital of Gascony in the 17th century. The old part of the town is steep and hilly and contains the city’s most notable landmark, a lateGothic cathedral, begun in 1489, known for its stained-glass windows and hand-worked choir stalls. Auch also has a museum and a library. The current population is nearly 22,000. The picturesque town of AURILLAC in south-central France developed around the ninth-century abbey of St. Géraud. A famous seat of medieval learning, Aurillac is situated on the Jordanne River, about 105 miles northeast of Toulouse. The capital of Cantal Département, it is an industrial, market, and communications center known for its umbrellas, shoes, furniture, gloves, and Cantal cheese. Landmarks include an 11th-century castle and an 18th-century church. The current population is 30,000. Important for its trade in Chablis wines, AUXERRE is a commercial and industrial city in north-central France. Situated 95 miles southeast of Paris, on the Yonne River, Auxerre is the capital of Yonne Département. Yonne flourished in preRoman and Roman times, becoming part of Burgundy via the Treaty of Arras in 1435. The city’s 13th-century abbey—St. Germain—is built

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Cities of the World on crypts that date from the sixth century. The abbey is now a hospital and has a magnificent clock tower built in Romanesque style. There is also a Gothic cathedral, built during the 13th through 16th centuries. An air force school was opened in Auxerre in 1965. The city’s current population is 38,000. AVIGNON is one of the loveliest cities in France. Surrounded by ramparts built in the 12th and 14th centuries, the city is located on the Rhône River in southeastern France, about 50 miles northwest of Marseille. The capital of Vaucluse Département, Avignon is a farm market with a wine trade and a diverse number of manufactured goods, including soap, chemicals, and leather products. Founded as a Phocaean colony, Avignon was conquered by the Romans, Goths, and Franks, among others. During Babylonian captivity (1309-1376), it was a papal see and, from 1378 to 1417, the residence of several antipopes. Avignon was an archiepiscopal see in 1475, and in 1793 it was incorporated into France. The city has many old churches, including a beautiful Gothi c papal palace erected in the 14th century atop a hill. A part of the bridge that was built in the 12th century across the Rhône River still stands today. Since 1948, the Avignon Theatre Festival has presented plays, musicals, dance, cabaret, performance art, children’s shows and circuses from early July through early August. During this same period, more experimental theatrical events are presented during another, unofficial festival known as Avignon Off. These two festivals draw approximately 125,000 visitors each year. The population is nearly 87,000. Located 42 miles northwest of Paris, BEAUVAIS is the capital of Oise Département. It is a manufacturing town of 54,000 that produces carpets, blankets, musical instruments, ceramic tiles, and tractors. As a Roman development and early episcopal see, Beauvais flourished in the Middle Ages and again in the 17th century when the tapestry

industry was established here. During the two world wars, Beauvais was damaged extensively. The tapestry factory was destroyed in June 1940, and subsequently, the industry was moved to Paris. Among the landmarks in Beauvais are the Cathedral of St. Pierre, begun as the highest building in Christendom in 1227, but never completed; 10th- and 12th-century churches; a 12th-century palace; and ancient Roman ramparts. BELFORT is located in eastern France, 80 miles southwest of Strasbourg and 40 miles west of the French borders with Germany and Switzerland. Since the 17th century, Belfort has been a major fortress town, commanding the Belfort Gap, or Burgundy Gate, between the Vosges and Jura mountains, and dominating the roads from France, Switzerland, and Germany. The city was an Austrian possession until passed to France in the Peace of Westphalia in 1648 and then fortified by Vauban. The garrison withstood a 108-day siege during the Franco-Prussian War; Bartholdi’s statue, The Lion of Belfort, commemorates this siege. Due in part to this accomplishment, the Germans left Belfort and the surrounding territory to France when they annexed the rest of Alsace. Many Alsatians took refuge in Belfort at this time, and have made a significant contribution to the city ’s industr ial growth. Today, Belfort is the capital of Territoire de Belfort and an important industrial and transportation center with large cotton mills and metalworks. The population is about 50,000. BESANÇON, an industrial city with a population of 122,000, is the capital of Doubs Département. Situated in the Jura Mountains of eastern France, Besançon is 75 miles west of Bern, Switzerland. The city’s industries include metallurgy, food processing, and textiles, but it is probably best known for its clock and watch factories, as well as a world renowned watch school. Additionally, Besançon is an important intellectual center, with a university, founded in 1422 in Dôle and

moved to Besançon in 1691. A music academy was founded in Besançon in 1726 and the city plays host to an international music festival. Historically, Be sançon was of GalloRoman origin, was captured by Julius Caesar in 58 B.C., and was an archiepiscopal see beginning in the fifth century. As part of the kingdom of Burgundy, Besançon was a free city maintaining its independence until it came under Spanish rule in 1648 and was incorporated with Franche-Comté. When Louis XIV conquered Franche-Comté in 1674, Besançon became the capital of the new province. Besançon was heavily bombed during World War II, but many historic landmarks remain, including several Roman ruins—a triumphal arch of Marcus Aurelius, an aqueduct, and an amphitheater. There are also numerous buildings in Spanish Renaissance style, including the Palais Branvelle and a town hall. Victor Hugo, the author, was born here in 1802. BLOIS, one of the country’s most historic towns, is located on the Loire River in central France. Situated 90 miles southwest of Paris, Blois is an industrial and commercial center known for its trade in brandies and wines. Items manufactured in the city include aircraft, footwear, and precision instruments. The most powerful feudal lords of France were the counts of Blois in the 10th century. The last count of Blois was childless and heavily in debt, and he sold his fief to Louis, duc d’ Orléans, in 1397. When Louis XII, grandson of the duke, became king of France in 1498, the title and jurisdiction passed to the crown. Blois then became a favorite royal residence. The city’s landmarks include an ancient Roman aqueduct and a 17th-century cathedral. The current population is 49,000. The fishing port of BOULOGNE (also called Boulogne-sur-Mer) is known for its herring catches from the North Sea. Situated 21 miles southwest of Calais, near the Liane River, Boulogne has daily ferry service to Dover, England. The city of 45,000 is also a favored resort with 175

France a pleasant beach. Industries here include textile production and fish processing. As an ancient Roman port, Boulogne was known as Gesoriacum. It was the debarkation point for Roman soldiers in the conquest of Britain and was a gathering point for Napoleon’s army between 1803-1805, in preparation for an attack on England. Boulogne suffered considerable damage during World War II and has since been rebuilt. A Paris suburb, BOULOGNE-BILLANCOURT is less than 10 miles southwest of the capital, on the Seine River. The city of 108,000 has two sections, a residential area in the north and an industrial area in the south. Boulogne-Billancourt has one of France’s largest automobile factories. Other industries include the manufacture of chemicals and electrical goods. BOURG, or Bourg-en-Bresse, is situated in eastern France, about 40 miles northeast of Lyons and 45 miles west of Geneva, Switzerland. The capital of Ain Département and the historic capital and chief city of the Bresse region in Burgundy, Bourg is a major transportation hub, farm market, and gastronomic center that manufactures furniture, machinery, shoes, and ceramics. Tourism is also a major industry. The 16th-century Gothic cathedral is one of the finest in France, and a museum of antiq ui ties is a lso located here. The current population is about 41,000. BOURGES is located in central France, 126 miles south of Paris. The capital of Cher Département, the city is a transportation center in a rich agricultural region. Aircraft, chemicals, leather, textiles, and rubber products are manufactured here. Historically, Bourges was known as Avaricum. It was taken by Julius Caesar in 52 B.C. and, under Augustus, it became the capital of the Roman province of Aquitania. It was an early episcopal see and the residence of Charles VII when most of France was in English hands. The site of numerous medieval councils, Bourges has a French Gothic cathe176

Cities of the World dral—the Cathedral of St. Étienne. Built in the 13th century, the structure is unusual in that it has no transept. A university was founded there in 1463 but was abolished during the Revolution. The current population of Bourges is 71,000. BREST, a port and naval station in Finistière Département, northwest France, has a population of 156,000. The seaport was planned by Richelieu and fortified by Vauban in the 17th century. It is known to a generation of American soldiers as a debarkation point for troops sent to fight in France during the First World War. Brest was occupied early in World War II by the Germans who used its port as a submarine base; the city itself was almost destroyed by Allied bombings, but was finally captured on September 19, 1944. Items manufactured in Brest include chemicals, shoes, and linens. The city trades in wine, coal, flour, timber, fruit, and vegetables. CANNES, best known for the international film festival held here each spring, is located in southeastern France on the Mediterranean Sea, about 18 miles southwest of Nice. An important and fashionable French Riviera resort, Cannes also has textile and shipbuilding industries. It manufactures soap and perfume and exports fruit, anchovies, and oil. Cannes was twice destroyed by the Moors as they advanced into France in the eighth century. Napoleon landed nearby following his escape from Elba in 1815. Cannes marked the easternmost landing point of American forces on August 15, 1944, during World War II. With a current population of 66,000, Cannes’ landmarks include 16thand 17th-century churches in the old part of the city. Just east of Cannes is the winter resort of Antibes. This city of 71,000 trades in dried fruit, olives, oil, tobacco, perfume, and wine. SaintRaphaël, a city of 30,000, is 18 miles west of Cannes. It was the scene of heavy fighting in August 1944. Fréjus is just west of Saint-Raphaël. It was founded by Julius Caesar and has Roman remains. West of Fréjus

is the noted resort of Saint-Tropez, population 4,000. CARCASSONNE, with a population of 44,000, is located on the Aude River in southern France, 57 miles southeast of Toulouse and 60 miles north of the Spanish border. Carcassonne is the capital of Aude Département and also a farm trade center that produces rubber, shoes, textiles, and agricultural tools. Tourism is important in Carcassonne, as the old city—a medieval fortress atop a hill—is one of the architectural marvels of Europe, with an interesting history. The Romans fortified the hilltop about the first century B.C. Towers were built by the Visigoths about the sixth century and remain intact today. The viscounts of Carcassonne fortified the structure further in the 12th century. The fortress was taken by Simon de Montfort in 1209, but was yielded to the king in 1247. At that time, Louis IX founded the new city across the Aude River. During Louis’ reign, the outer ramparts of the fortress were built, and later, under Philip III, intricate defense devices were added. When completed, the fortress was considered impenetrable and proved thus when Edward the Black Prince was stopped at its walls in 1355. When the province of Roussilon was annexed to France in 1659, the fortress was no longer useful, the ramparts were gradually abandoned, and it fell into disrepair. In the 19th century, the fortress was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Other points of interest in Carcassonne include a 12-arch bridge, a castle, and a 13th-century Gothic cathedral. The commune of Castelnaudary, with a population of 9,000, is northwest of Carcassonne. The town is historically important in ancient Languedoc. CHÂTEAUBRIANT is situated in northwestern France, 40 miles northeast of Nantes. The city has a population of over 13,000. It is an important livestock center and manufactures textiles, food products, and agricultural machinery.

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Cities of the World The castle in Châteaubriant serves as a museum and law courts. CHÂTEAUDUN lies on a plateau overlooking the Loir River in northcentral France. Situated less than 100 miles north of Angers, the city’s population exceeds 15,000. It was rebuilt in 1723 after a fire. Today, Châ teaudun ha s a pr om enade which offers a view of the Loir Valley. Historical sites here include a castle and the Church of St. Valérien, both built during the 12th to 16th centuries. Factories in the city produce optical and telephone equipment, dairy products, and machine tools. A commercial and manufacturing city, CLERMONT-FERRAND is located in south-central France, about 80 miles west of Lyons. Clermont-Ferrand is on the Tiretaine River and is the capital of Puy-deDôme Département. Picturesquely situated near Puy-de-Dôme peak, the city is built mostly of the dark volcanic rock found in the region. An industrial center, Clermont-Ferrand is the home of Michelin and other tire factories, as well as important metallurgical works. Other items produced in the city include chemicals and linen. With a current population of 132,000, the city was formed in 1731 when Clermont was united with Montferrand, a nearby town founded by the lords of Auvergne in the 11th century. The history of Clermont dates back to Roman times. It became an episcopal see in the fourth century and was the site of several church councils, including the council that gave rise to the Crusades in 1095. Landmarks in Clermont-Ferrand include the 12th-century Romanesque Church of Notre-Dame de Port and the Gothic Cathedral of NotreDame, built in the 13th and 14th centuries. COLMAR, seat of the Haut-Rhin préfecture, is situated in the Alsatian plain of eastern France, near the foothills of the Vosges. It is one of the most picturesque spots in the Alsace, and is the wine-growing capital of an area that attracts thousands of tourists each autumn for a

captivating journey along the Route de Vin. The route from Colmar north to Obernai, toward Strasbourg, is a narrow road that winds through small villages and open countryside, where privately owned vineyards often reach the roadside in an effort to make optimum use of the fertile terrain. Colmar itself, with a population of nearly 66,000, is an industrial and commercial city and a cultural center. There are many buildings of medieval architecture, among them the Collegiate Church of St. Martin, which dates to 1235, less than a decade after Colmar became a free imperial city; the outstanding Unterlinden Museum, erected on the site (and still using the preserved building) of a 13thcentury Dominican convent; the old Customs House, or Koïfhus; Franciscan and Dominican churches of note; and several monuments and timbered houses on the boulevard du Champ de Mars and in La Place des Six Montagnes Noires. Another treasure remaining from the 16th century is the Old Guard House, one of the Alsace’s most beautiful relics of that period. The Tanners’ District is a reminder of an economic activity that made Colmar well known in the Middle Ages. Among the city’s native sons were Martin Schong a u e r, w h o s e m a s t e r p i e c e , Madonna of the Rose Arbor, was painted for St. Martin’s; and the 19th-century sculptor, Auguste Bartholdi. Nearby Kayserburg is the birthplace of the renowned Dr. Albert Schweitzer. Épinal, with a population of 35,000, is 75 miles west of Colmar. Textile and printing industries are located here. The fortified town of Turckheim, four miles west, is a favorite resort. T h e o l d c a p i t a l o f B u r g u n d y, DIJON is situated in eastern France, 100 miles north of Lyons and 115 miles west of Bern, Switzerland. The capital of Côte d’Or Département, Dijon is a transportation and industrial center on the Ouche River that produces food, metal products, and electrical and optical equipment. It is probably best known for its mustard and cas-

sis (black currant liqueur) and is also an important shipping center for the Burgundy wine that is produced in the surrounding countryside. Surrounded by eight forts, Dijon was founded in ancient times and began to flourish when the Burgundy rulers resided here in the 11th century. Dijon was a thriving cultural center even after Burgundy was reunited with France in the late 15th century; Dijon University was founded in 1722. The city is also known for its art treasures. Funereal statues of the dukes of Burgundy are housed in a museum in the town hall that was originally the ducal palace; it was built in the 12th century and greatly rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries. Landmarks in Dijon include the Cathedral of St. Bénigne (built in 13th and 14th centuries), the Church of Notre Dame (13th century), St. Michael’s Church, the Hôtel Aubriot (built in the 14th century and now housing a museum of Burgundian folklore), and the palace of justice (built in the 15th and 16th centuries). Dijon was also the birthplace of the writer Bossuet, the composer Rameau, and the dramatist Crebillon. The current population is 148,000. Dijon holds its annual fair in early November. Southwest of Dijon is Dôle. Roman ruins, a 16th-century church, and a hospital in Renaissance style may be found in this city of 25,000. Also southwest of Dijon is Beaune, a formerly walled and moated town which was important during the Middle Ages. The city is known for Hôtel Dieu, or Hospital of Beaune, built in 1450. The building functioned continuously in that capacity until only a few years ago and now serves as a hospital museum. The population of Beaune is 22,000. GRENOBLE is entirely surrounded by the Alps in southeastern France, 133 miles northeast of Marseille. It is a commercial and manufacturing city, and capital of Isère Département. The Winter Olympics were held in Grenoble in 1968. The city’s famous historical buildings include a university dating to 1339, a 10th-century cathe177

France dral, fine art museums, and a Renaissance palace belonging to the dauphins of France. A nuclear research center was constructed in Grenoble in 1959. The city’s population is 156,000. LE MANS, famous for its annual international auto race, is capital of the Sarthe Département and is situated on the Sarthe River, about 35 miles south of Alençon in northwestern France. An important educational, communications, commercial, and manufacturing center, Le Mans dates back to preRoman times. It was a Merovingian capital and was the site of frequent sieges and battles throughout its history, including defeat of the French by Prussians during the Franco-Prussian war, 1870-1871. Le Mans was the birthplace of Henry II of England and John II of France. Landmarks include the Cathedral of St. Julien du Mans, built during the 11th through 13th centuries. The cathedral is partly Romanesque and partly Gothic; it contains the most daring system of flying buttresses of any Gothic structure. Le Mans today has a population of 151,000. Items produced in the city include electrical equipment, textiles, tobacco products, automobile parts, and plastics. LIMOGES, with a population of 138,000, is located on the Vienne River in west-central France, about 110 miles northeast of Bordeaux. The capital of Haute-Vienne Département, Limoges is a manufacturing and commercial city known for its ceramics industry. Begun in 1736, Limoges porcelain workshops employ more than 10,000 people, making use of the abundant kaolin in the area. The city also produces leather goods, paper, furniture, textiles, and precision tools. Historically, Limoges was a Gallic tribal center destroyed in the fifth century. Two separate towns developed by the ninth century and were later merged in 1792. In the 12th century, Limoges was the seat of the viscounty of Limoges. It was often the scene of war, pestilence, and famine. Richard the Lionhearted was killed in a battle near Limoges in 1199. 178

Cities of the World Edward the Black Prince burned the city and murdered its inhabitants in 1370. In the 13th century, the well-known Limoges enamel industry was developed and thrived, but declined when the city was again devastated by the Wars of Religion. Prosperity returned to Limoges when porcelain china manufacturing was introduced in 1771. Landmarks in Limoges include a cathedral, a ceramics museum, and an art gallery that contains many works by Renoir, who was born here. The city also has a university founded in 1808, suppressed in 1840, and reopened in 1965. LOURDES, a small commune of about 18,000, is located in southwestern France, just south of Pau and about 30 miles north of the Spanish border. Formerly the fortress of the counts of Bigorre, and known for its slate quarries, Lourdes became internationally famous on February 11, 1858, when the Virgin Mary was said to have made her first apparition before the peasant girl, Bernadette Soubirous. There were 18 apparitions in all in the grotto. A large underground basilica was completed in 1958. This Roman Catholic shrine draws millions to Lourdes every year; the most important pilgrimage occurs annually during the week of August 18. Miraculous cures have been attributed to the waters of the shrine. The sanctuaries and pools are open throughout the year. Organized pilgrimages take place from the Sunday before Easter through midOctober. Religious ceremonies are held daily during the pilgrimage season. There are masses, stations of the Cross, a procession of the Holy Sacrament for sick pilgrims, and a torch procession each evening that always attracts a crowd. Lourdes is accessible by rail, by three main roads, and by the LourdesOssun airport. Located 178 miles northeast of Paris, METZ is situated at the confluence of the Seille and Moselle Rivers. The capital of Moselle Département, it has a current population of 127,000. Metz is a cultural and commercial center and an

industrial city that produces shoes, metal goods, canned fruit and vegetables, clothing, and tobacco. It is also the center of an iron-mining region. Of pre-Roman origin, Metz was one of Gaul’s most important cities. Destroyed by the Vandals in 406 and the Huns in 451, Metz became the capital of Austrasia in the sixth century. It reached the height of its prosperity in the 13th century as a free, independent city. Along with Toul and Verdun, Metz was taken by the French in 1552 and, under the Treaty of Westphalia, formally ceded to France in 1648. Following a major siege in 1870, Metz was surrendered to the Germans, and remained under German rule from 1871 until 1918. The city was returned to France after World War I. It was heavily damaged in World War II during intense fighting from September to October 1944, and was captured by the Allies on November 20. There are historical landmarks in Metz from all of the city’s prosperous periods. Gallo-Roman ruins include an aqueduct, thermal baths, and part of an amphitheater. From the medieval period is the Cathedral of St. Étienne, built between 1221 and 1516, and Place Sainte Croix, a square surrounded by medieval houses built between the 13th and 15th centuries. Metz also has several other churches including the oldest church in France—St. Pierre-auxNonnains. At St. Avold, 28 miles east of Metz, is Lorraine Cemetery, where more World War II American soldiers are buried than anyplace else in Europe. MOULINS, a manufacturing city, is situated on the Allier River in central France. The capital of Allier Département and the ancient capital of Bourbonnais from the 10th through the 16th centuries, Moulins is 95 miles northwest of Lyons. Clothing, shoes, machine tools, beer, and furniture are manufactured within the city, which is also an agricultural market. Historically, Moulins became the capital of the duchy in the late 15th century, but was confiscated by the French crown in 1527. Here, in 1566, Charles IX held an assembly, adopt-

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Cities of the World ing important administrative and legal reforms. Moulins is the site of several artistic and historic treasures. The 15th-century Gothic cathedral contains a trip-tych considered one of the best examples of French painting of the period. The tomb of Henry de Montmorency is in the former convent of the Order of Visitation, which is now a school. The ruined castle of the dukes of Bourbon and a Renaissance pavilion are also of historic note and located in Moulins. The modern city has a population of 21,000. South of Moulins is Vichy, a noted spa and health resort. This city of 26,000 has many thermal alkaline springs used since Roman times. Vichy water and salts are exported in large quantities. As a result of the French armistice with Germany, Vichy was made capital of unoccupied France in July 1940 and was the seat of the French government until complete occupation by the Germans in November 1942. MULHOUSE is an industrial city of 112,000 on the Ill River, approximately 20 miles south of Colmar. Situated at the very heart of western Europe, near the Rhine and flanked by the Vosges to the west and the Black Forest to the east, Mulhouse has always striven to make the most of its favorable geographic location close to both Germany and Switzerland. It was a free imperial city in 1308 and, from the 15th to the 18th century, was an allied member of the Swiss Confederation. It became a French town in 1798, and then was under German rule from 1871 until 1918, when it reverted to France. Its important attractions are the 16th-century town hall and a modern (and famous) car museum. There are also wallpaper and textile-printing museums, a National Railway museum, and the Mulhouse Fireman Museum. Mulhouse’s zoological and botanic gardens are among the great achievements of the 19thcentury ruling class. Today, the gardens are home to nearly a thousand animals.

A western suburb of Paris, NANTERRE has a population of 85,000. The capital of Hauts-de- Seine Département, Nanterre is situated in north-central France, on the right bank of the Seine River. It is an industrial center whose manufactures include automobiles, metals, machine tools, electrical equipment, a n d r o l li n g s t o ck . La n d ma r k s include the National Basilica of Ste. Beneviève, with a 15th-century nave. The commercial and manufacturing city of NÎMES is located in southern France, 64 miles northwest of Marseille and 30 miles north of the Gulf of Lions. The capital of Gard Département, with a population of 138,000, Nîmes produces textiles, brandy, footwear, and leather goods, and trades in wine and grain. Thought to have been founded by Greek colonists, it became Roman about 120 B.C. and, under the name of Menausus, was one of the principal cities of Roman Gaul. Nîmes came under the French crown in 1258, and later was a stronghold of the Huguenots. The Pacification of Nîmes was signed here in 1629, and when the treaty was revoked in 1685, the city greatly suffered. Nîmes is probably best known for its ancient Roman buildings and monuments. Some of these relics include a large Roman amphitheater, built in the first century A.D. and later used as a fortress by the Visigoths and Saracens against the Franks; seating 24,000, the arena is still used today. One of the finest examples of Roman architecture is the square house, or Maison Carée. Originally a Roman temple built in the first or second century, it was restored in 1789 and converted in 1823 into a museum that contains Roman antiquities. Other relics include the remains of an ancient tower, Tour Magne; two gates; ruins of a nymphaeum; and, near the town of Remoulins, 15 miles northeast, ruins of a major Roman aqueduct, Pont de Gard. Nîmes also has an 11th-century cathedral, built on the site of the former temple of Apollo.

Located 70 miles southwest of Paris, in north central France, ORLÉANS is an important transportation junction situated in a fruit and vegetable growing region. Industries in Orléans include food processing, chemicals, textiles, and pharmaceuticals. The capital of Loiret Département, Orléans has a population of 117,000 and is surrounded by modern, sprawling suburbs. Orléans was originally a Celtic city called Genabum. In a revolt against Julius Caesar, the city was burned in 52 B.C., and rebuilt under the name Aurelianum. A major cultural center in the early Middle Ages, the city was the principal residence, after Paris, of French kings in the tenth century. The siege of Orléans by the English in 1428-29 threatened to bring all of France under England’s rule, but was saved by the heroics of Joan of Arc. Every May, the feast of Joan of Arc is celebrated with much spectacle in Orléans. The city was a prosperous industrial and commercial center during the 17th and 18th c e n t u r i e s, a n d i t s u n i v e r s i t y, founded in the 14th century, was known throughout Europe. Many historic buildings in Orléans were damaged during the German invasion of France in 1940, including most of those associated with Joan of Arc. Structures that remain include the Cathedral of SainteCroix, rebuilt during the 17th through 19th centuries, after being destroyed by the Huguenots in 1568; a 16th-century church and town hall; a 17th-century prefecture, and an episcopal palace. One of the most famous intellectual centers of the Middle Ages, St.-Benoitsur-Loire is 22 miles to the east, and features a noteworthy 11th-century Romanesque basilica. A winter sports center, PAU is located in southwestern France 105 miles south of Bordeaux. Situated at the foot of the Pyrenees on the right bank of the Gave de Pau River, Pau is the capital of PyrénéesAtlantiques Département. The city is a major tourist center known for its scenery. Pau has metallurgical and wool industries, and an oil r e f i n e r y. M a n u f a c t u r e d i t e m s include perfume, shoes, and cloth179

France ing. Founded in the 11th century, Pau was the capital of Béarn in the 14th century and was the residence of the Navarre kings in 1512. Pau was the birthplace of Henry IV of France and of Jean-Baptiste-Jules Bernadotte, the French revolutionary general who became Charles XIV of Sweden and Norway. The city has a 12th-century castle and a university founded in 1724. Its population is currently 79,000. A major tourist resort, PERPIGNAN is located in the south of France, less than 20 miles from the Spanish border and five miles from the Mediterranean Sea. Perpignan is the capital of Pyrénées-Orientales Département. There is a nearby international airport. The city is also a thoroughfare for motorists traveling to Spain. With a current population of 107,000, Perpignan is a farm trade center that handles fruits, vegetables, and wine. Industries include distilleries, factories, and canneries; items manufactured are paper, clothing, toys, chocolate, a n d c e r a m i c s. Pe r p i g n a n wa s founded around the 10th century as the fortified capital of the Spanish kingdom of Roussillon; the architecture in the city today shows much Spanish influence. Perpignan was united with France in 1659. Notable landmarks include the 14th-century Loge, constructed to house the merchants’ exchange; the Gothic Cathedral of St. Jean, built in the 14th and 15th centuries; and the castle of the Majorcan kings, built during the 13th through 15th centuries, which forms part of the old citadel that dominates the city. Close to Perpignan are the seaside towns of PortVendres, Elne, and St. Laurent. Located in west-central France, 180 miles southwest of Paris, POITIERS is the capital of Vienne Département. A historic city situated at the confluence of the Clain and Boivre Rivers, Poitiers has many landmarks. They include the Baptistery of St. Jean, most likely the oldest Christian monument in the country, and Notre Dame la Grande, dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. The University of Poitiers, established by Charles VII 180

Cities of the World in 1431, is a coeducational facility funded by the state. The city’s population is over 85,000. Situated at the junction of the Vilaine and Ille Rivers in northwest France, RENNES is an industrial and commercial center 193 miles southwest of Paris. An archiepiscopal see as well as a railroad junction, Rennes produces a variety of items including automobiles, agricultural machinery, furniture, chemicals, textiles, honey, and lace. An important Gallo-Roman town, Rennes became the capital of Brittany in the 10th century and, from 1561 to 1675, was the seat of parlement (parliament, or seat of justice) in Brittany. The Norsemen ravaged the town during the Hundred Years War and, in 1720, it was destroyed by fire. It also suffered widespread destruction in 1944 during World War II. The Brittany Cemetery, 31 miles northeast in St. James, is the burial site for Americans killed during the Normandy and Brittany campaigns that year. Rennes has a university, founded in 1461 at Nantes, and transferred in 1735. Rennes is also the site of the National School of Public Health. The current population is 212,000. Other towns in Brittany are known for their architectural treasures. Auray, Dinan, Fougères, Morlaix, Quimper, Vannes, and Vitré retain fine historic centers of interest to visitors. ROUBAIX, a commercial and manufacturing city, is in northern France, seven miles northeast of Lille and just south of the border with Belgium. With a population of 96,000, Roubaix is the major center of the French textile industry. Chartered in 1469, it has dyeing plants and plastics and rubber factories. The textile industry developed in Roubaix in the 19th century. A national textile school is located here. SAINT-BRIEUC, a manufacturing and commercial city of 44,000, is located on the Gouet River near the English Channel, in northwestern France. The capital of Côtes-du-

Nord Département, Saint-Brieuc is 240 miles west of Paris. A railroad junction as well as a coastal and fishing port, its industries include textiles and metallurgy. The city was founded in the fifth century, growing rapidly after the Welsh monk, St. Briomach, built a monastery here in about the sixth century. Saint-Brieuc has been an episcopal see since the ninth century. Of note in the city today is the 13th-century fortress-cathedral. Saint-Brieuc is 40 miles west of Saint-Malo, a fishing port, famous tourist resort, and yachting center situated on a rocky island in the Atlantic Ocean. SaintBrieuc is also 60 miles west of MontSaint-Michel. A fortified rock in Mont-Saint- Michel Bay, a remarkable ancient abbey, and the town are located at the rock’s summit. An industrial suburb north of Paris, SA I N T - D E N I S m a n u f a c t u r e s chemicals, plastics, diesel engines, leather, pharmaceuticals, glue, and fireworks. Situated in northern France about seven miles northeast of the French capital, Saint-Denis has a current population of 134,000. The city was founded early in the Christian era, probably at the site where St. Denis fell and was buried. The abbey of Saint-Denis was built in 626 and quickly became the richest and most famous in France. Joan of Arc blessed her weapons at this abbey and Abelard lived in it as a monk in the 12th century. The abbey’s banner—the oriflamme— served as the royal standard from the reign of Louis VI to Charles VI (12th to 15th centuries). The abbey was heavily damaged during the French Revolution, but was restored. Saint-Denis was the first cathedral considered Gothic in construction and became the prototype for many others. The cathedral contains the tombs of many French monarchs, including Louis XII, Henry II, Catherine de Médici, Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, and Louis XIII. Today, the abbey is a school for daughters of Legion of Honor members. Saint-Denis also has a museum of gold and silver. SAINT-ÉTIENNE, capital of the Loire Département in Lyonnaise, is

France

Cities of the World located in east-central France about 32 miles southwest of Lyons. A city of 184,000 residents, it is an industrial center with an important textile and dyeing industry. Formerly one of the country’s leading steel centers, its industries today include coal mining, and the production of chemicals, government armaments, and alloy steels. A noted school of mines is located in Saint-Étienne. The city has several museums and the beautiful Gardens of Rez. A church with the same name as the city dates from the 15th century.

The manufacturing city of TOURCOING is located in northern France, just south of the border with Belgium. With the adjacent city of Roubaix, it forms one of the most important textile centers in France. Soap work and sugar refineries are also found in this city whose population is 93,000. Tourcoing was granted a city charter in 1491 by Maximilian I, in recognition of its important textile industry. The city was captured by the Germans in 1914 and was seriously damaged.

The port city of SAINT-MALO is located 47 miles north of Rennes in northwestern France. Destroyed during World War II and later rebuilt, the city is a noted tourist resort. It was here, in 1944, that German occupation forces surrendered to the Allies. The 14th-century castle in Saint-Malo now houses a museum. Jacques Cartier, the explorer, and François-René de Chateaubriand, the writer, were both born here. The current population is 52,000.

TOURS is situated in west-central France on the Loire River. The capital of Indre-et-Loire Département, Tours is 130 miles southwest of Paris and has a populati on of 133,000. It is a commercial and industrial city that is also a wine market and a tourist center. Industries include clothing, printing, metallurgical, and chemical manufacturing. Tours was originally a pre-Roman town that grew rapidly following the death of its bishop, Saint Martin, in 397. It became the center of medieval Christian learning under Gregory of Tours and Alcuin. Tours was the scene of Charles Martel’s victory over the Saracens in 732, and became an archdiocese in 853. In the 15th century, Tours developed a prosperous silk industry. The city was the headquarters of the government national defense during the Franco-Prussian War, 1870-71; during World War II in June 1940, it was briefly the seat of the French government. Historical landmarks in Tours include Gallo-Roman ruins, the Gothic Cathedral of St. G a t i e n ( b u i l t d u ri n g t h e 1 2 t h through 16th centuries), and two towers and the cloister of the old basilica of St. Martin of Tours. Noted literary figure, Honoré de Balzac (1799-1850), was born in Tours.

The seaport and industrial commune of SAINT-NAZAIRE is located at the mouth of the Loire River on the Bay of Biscay, in northwestern France, 33 miles northwest of Nantes. This city of 118,000 is an important seaport mainly dealing in trade with Central America and the Antilles. A major shipbuilding center and fishing port, Saint-Nazaire also has aeronautical, metallurgical, chemical, and food industries. Saint-Nazaire was believed to have been built on the site of the ancient Gallo-Roman town of Carbilo, where the Romans built a fleet in 56 B.C. From the mid-19th century, SaintNazaire developed as a port. In World War I, it was a major debarkation port for the American Expeditionary Force; from 1940-44, during World War II, it was a German submarine base. Surrounded by Allied forces in August 1944, the German submariners surrendered in May 1945. Saint-Nazaire was nearly destroyed by the bombing, but has been rebuilt. Near SaintNazaire is the joint municipality of La Baule-Escoublac, a beach resort.

Fifteen miles to the east is the city of Amboise, with a population of 11,000. The city manufactures optical instruments and photographic equipment, but is best known for its castle.

TROYES is located in northeastern France, about 90 miles southeast of Paris, on the Seine River. The capital of Aube Département, Troyes has a population of 61,000. It is an industrial city and the center of the French hosiery industry. Other products manufactured in Troyes include textile machinery, needles, flour, automobile parts, and tires. Dating from pre-Roman times, Troyes was sacked by the Normans in 889 and became the capital of Champagne in 1019. During the 11th through the 13th centuries, Troyes prospered as a commercial town and was the site of the great C h a m p ag n e f a i r s. T h e s e f a i r s attracted merchants from throughout the known world, and set standards of weights and measures for all of Europe; the troy weight has survived to the present. Troyes was the site of the 1420 treaty between Charles VI of France, Henry V of England, and Philip the Good of Burgundy. It was also the first town taken by Joan of Arc on her march to Reims in 1429. Troyes has many fine Gothic structures, including the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul (constructed during the 13th through 17th centuries), the Church of St. Urban (begun in 1262), several other notable churches, a 17thcentury town hall, and a 12th-century hospital. The capital of Drôme Département, VALENCE is located on the Rhône River in southeastern France. A city of 65,000, and 116 miles northwest of Marseille, Valence is a trade center in a fertile farming region. Silk, furniture, footwear, leather goods, and jewelry are among the items produced here. Valence is an old Roman town that has changed hands many times; it was taken by the Visigoths in 413 and by the Arabs in 730. It became an episcopal see in the fourth century, and was ruled by its own bishops from 1150 until the 15th century. The city’s 11th-century Romanesque cathedral is of interest to tourists. A major tourist center located 10 miles southwest of Paris, VERSAILLES is the capital of the Yvelines Département. Items 181

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Cities of the World the west, the Seine in the north, and the Rhine, which forms part of France’s eastern border with Germany. France is bordered on the north by Belgium and the Duchy of Luxembourg, on the east by Germany; on the southeast by Switzerland, Italy, and Monaco; and on the south by Spain and Andorra.

Notre Dame cathedral in Paris

manufactured in the city include brandy and watches. Versailles was an insignificant village made famous by Louis XIV when he built the palace and grounds that have been synonymous with the city’s name since the mid-17th century. The growth of the town, which currently has a population of 83,000, began when Louis moved his court here in 1682. The magnificent palace, built in French classical structure, was the work of three architects—Louis Le Vau, J.H. Mansart, and Charles Le Brun. The park and gardens were designed by André Le Nôtre and contain sculptures, fountains, and reservoirs by Antoin Coysevox and other artists. Water is supplied to the fountains by a huge machine built at MarlyLe-Roi. Two smaller palaces—the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon—are also in the park, as well as several grottoes, temples, and decorative structures. The French Revolution began in Versailles, and the palace was never again a royal residence. It became a museum and national monument under Louis Philippe. Several important treaties were signed at Versailles: negotiations between the United States and Great Britain ending the American Revolution concluded here in 1782 and a preliminary treaty was signed; the 1919 treaty between the 182

Courtesy of MaryBeth Mailloux

Allies and Germany ending World War I and establishing the League of Nations; and the Grand Trianon treaty between the Allies and Hungary, signed on June 4, 1920.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate France, the largest Western European nation, covers 213,000 square miles and is about four-fifths the size of Texas. The landscape is varied: about two-thirds flat plains or gently rolling hills and the rest mountainous. A broad plain covers most of northern and western France from the Belgian border in the northeast to Bayonne in the southwest, and it rises to uplands in Normandy, Brittany, and the east. This large plain is bounded on the south by the steeply rising ridges of the Pyrénées, on the southeast by the mountainous plateau of the Massif Central, and on the east by the rugged Alps, the low ridges of the Jura, and the rounded summits of the densely forested Vosges. The principal rivers are the Rhône in the south, the Loire and the Garonne in

There are cool winters and mild summers in the west and north of France, and southern France and Corsica have a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Precipitation is frequent year round. The average yearly rainfall in Paris for the last 30 years is 26 inches.

Population France’s population of 59.6 million consists of large elements of three basic European stocks—Celtic, Latin, and Teutonic. Over the centuries, however, these groups have blended so that today they may be referred to only in the broadest sense. France’s birthrate was among the highest in Europe from 1945 until the late 1960s, when it began to fall. The 2001 figures reveal 12.1 births per 1,000. Traditionally, France has had a high level of immigration, and about 3 million people entered the country between the two World Wars. After the establishment of an independent Algerian state in 1962, about 1 million French citizens returned to France. By early 1982 France’s population of immigrant workers and their families was estimated at 3.5 million or almost 7 percent of the population. By 1992 that figure rose to about 5 million immigrant workers (9% of the population), primarily of North African, Portuguese, Italian, and Spanish extractions with smaller groups coming from Turkey, Yugoslavia, Poland, Senegal, and Mali. As of 2001 about 90 percent of the population is Roman Catholic, 2

France

Cities of the World percent is Protestant, and about 1 percent is Jewish. Immigration since the early 1960s from North Africa, especially Algeria, accounts for approximately 3 percent of the population, making Islam the second most practiced religion in France.

Public Institutions The Constitution for the Fifth Republic was approved by public referendum in 1958. Under its provisions, as amended in 1962, the President of the Republic is elected directly for a 7-year term. The President, currently Jacques Chirac, names the Prime Minister, currently Jean-Pierre Raffarin, who presides over the Cabinet, commands the Armed Forces, and concludes treaties. The President may submit questions to a national referendum, can dissolve the National Assembly, and, in certain defined emergency situations, may assume full power. The Constitution provides for a bicameral Parliament consisting of a National Assembly and a Senate. The Assembly’s 577 deputies are elected directly for 5-year terms. All seats are voted on in each election. The Senate, chosen by an electoral college, has 321 members elected for 9-year terms. One-third of the Senate is renewed every 3 years. The French political spectrum includes six distinctive political groups. From right to left, these are: the extreme right, the neoGaullists, the traditional centerright, the ecologists, the Socialists, and the Communists. Numerous s m a l l e r p a r t i e s hav e v a r i a b l e national political impact. A Socialist President was reelected in 1988 and, later the same year, a Socialist government replaced that of the center-right. The current president, Jacques Chirac, is a member of the conservative Rassemblement pour la République Rally for the Republic) party. He wa s f i r s t e l e c t e d i n 1 9 9 7 a n d reelected in 2002.

Arts, Science, and Education Rich in history and steeped in tradition, France has made durable contributions, in all disciplines, to the global fund of knowledge. French philosophers, scientists, artists, and literary figures transformed the face of the world they found. Contemporary social, political, and artistic factors, however, have produced an era of redefinition in which French intellectuals are seeking new roles for their country to play on the world stage. France’s academic, artistic, and scientific communities are more open to an exchange of ideas with their U.S. counterparts than at any other time in the postwar period. Additionally, the lowering of market barriers and the open pursuit of closer political and economic ties among European neighbor states have made English the linguistic common denominator for future interaction. This turn of events will facilitate the two-way flow of ideas across the Atlantic. The French often refer to themselves as “cartesian” (after celebrated mathematician/philosopher Renee Descartes), meaning their self-perception is one of practicality and realism. These qualities have been brought to bear on new technology as France becomes a prime European player in the esoteric world of computers, space exploration, nuclear energy, telecommunications, and high-speed rail transport. In a society where intellectuals were both seers and social arbiters, the technocrat is now finding a comfortable place of honor all his own. Even with the thrust toward the practical, the arts and their various practitioners are solid components in the everyday lives of most French citizens. It would be hard to find someone who does not have a favorite painter or preferred film direct o r, o r w h o h a s n o o p i n i o n whatsoever on the architectural integrity of new construction in any given city. Contemporary fine art-

ists, actors, musicians, and writers will always enjoy prestige and criticism.

Commerce and Industry Since World War II, France has been transformed from a largely agrarian economy with modest mineral resources and small, fragmented industrial sectors into a diversified, integrated, and sophisticated industrial power. Still a large agricultural producer, France also has become a major producer and exporter of chemicals, motor vehicles, nuclear power stations, aircraft, electronics, telecommunications equipment, and civil engineering services and technology. This rapid industrialization was fostered by France’s charter membership in the European Community (EC), and by heavy U.S. direct investment, particularly between 1955 and 1974. By 1990 U.S. investment in France reached $15.9 billion and has continued to grow. French investment in the U.S. has grown explosively in the last few years. Before World War II, railroads and public utilities were nationalized. In the early postwar period several major enterprises were nationalized, including the four largest banks and certain aerospace, automotive, and other manufacturers. In the early 1980s additional nationalizations occurred under a Socialist government followed by privatizations under a Conservative government. When the Socialists regained a majority in 1988, they did not reverse these privatizations. France is determined to compete successfully in the unified European market, which began on January 1, 1993, and the French Government maintains substantial holdings in pharmaceuticals, chemicals, and electronics. Government intervention in the productive sector is greater than in the U.S., but France is mainly a free market economy, and foreign investors enjoy full national treatment. Gross 183

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Cities of the World Train travel is fast, efficient, and inexpensive. Substantial fare reductions for use of public transportation are offered to children, students, and individuals over 60. Frequent direct air service is available to many U.S. cities. The two airports serving Paris, Charles de Gaulle and Orly, are served by excellent bus and rail service to air terminals in the city.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph

Champs-Elysees in Paris

domestic product (GDP) in 2000 reached $1,448 billion, or $24,400 per capita (population 59.6 million). The majority of France’s foreign trade is with EC partners, headed by Germany. Major imports from the U.S. included aerospace equipment, electronic components and equipment, chemicals, and pharmaceutical products. Despite slower growth and surging unemployment, the French Government has reinforced its commitment to maintain tight fiscal and monetary control to keep inflation in hand. It is also taking measures to promote investment as a means of addressing its main areas of concern: growing unemployment and a moderate but persistent trade deficit.

Transportation Local Public transportation in Paris is excellent, inexpensive, and is preferred by most employees to the frustrations of rush hour driving. The metro (subway), although crowded during rush hour, is fast and trains are frequent. Trains and stations are well maintained and routes are clearly marked. Buses also are frequent and provide excellent service. A monthly pass for the 184

Courtesy of Mira Bossowska

metro and bus system, taking you anywhere within Paris, may be purchased. Student rates are available. Taxis are plentiful, though difficult to find during rush hour, holidays, and bad weather. Limited to 3 passengers, they are metered with surcharges for late rides, long rides, luggage, and use of radio.

Regional France has an excellent system of highways, providing easy access to Belgium (3 hours), Germany (5 hours), and the Riviera (8 –10 hours). Tolls are high on major roads. Heavy traffic on weekends and during holidays can cause considerable inconvenience. Secondary, two-lane roads, passing through the centers of small towns, are often more picturesque and interesting. The roads are well marked and detailed maps are readily available. The American driver may have initial difficulty adjusting to the aggressive driving habits of some French motorists. Bicyclists, motorc y cl is t s, an d p e d e s t r ia n s a l s o encumber the roads both in towns and in the country. France offers excellent rail and air transportation to all parts of the country and other European destinations. The French railway system is among the best in the world.

Telephone and telegraph services to and from Paris compare favorably with those in any large U.S. city. A direct-dial telephone system links France to the U.S. and most of the world. Phones can be purchased or rented. American-made phones can be used when fitted with the proper plug, which is available locally. Calls to the U.S. may be charged to international telephone cards such as AT&T, MCI, and Sprint.

Radio and TV French TV can only be received on a TV with French SECAM-L. The multistandard PAL/SECAM/NTSC TV’s, which can be purchased in many parts of the world, will not receive French stations. French TV offers government run stations and private channels. All channels feature heavy doses of popular American programs dubbed into French. American films dubbed into French or French-made films, game shows, and variety shows also predominate. The nightly news is at 8 pm. Children’s shows, mostly cartoons, are shown, but for considerably less time than in the U.S. Many parts of Paris are able to subscribe to cable and can receive CNN, BBC1, and several other European channels. An additional channel, Canal Plus, which can be accessed by renting a decoder box for your F r e n c h T V, c a r r i e s m o v i e s i n English. Every morning at 7 am, even without a decoder, you can watch the previous evening’s CBS news in English with French subtitles on Canal Plus.

France

Cities of the World Radio reception is good. What you receive depends upon where you are in Paris. BBC International radio service can be picked up on AM. There is no VOA Europe broadcast in the Paris area. It is illegal to ship or hand-carry a two-way CB radio transceiver. It is possible, however, to join local amateur radio operator clubs. Reciprocal amateur licenses are available.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals French newspapers and periodicals are expensive, but readily available at newsstands around the city. French newspapers follow a particular ideological or political bent. Editorial comment and factual reporting are not always kept separate as they are in U.S. newspapers. There is a good deal of coverage of the American political scene and of French-U.S. relations.

one. The USIS Benjamin Franklin Library, located in the Talleyrand Building, serves as a documentation/reference center for a variety of American topics.

immunizations against diphtheriatetanus and polio. School-age children will be required to have the same immunizations as in the U.S.

Health and Medicine

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Medical Facilities Most medications used in the U.S. are available in France. A French physician must write prescriptions for medications purchased at local pharmacies. If taking a prescription medicine, bring a supply. Paris has good medical facilities and well-trained physicians. A good resource list of English-speaking physicians is available, and many have trained in the U.S. Outpatient medical and dental care is more expensive than in the U.S.

Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .French Labor Day May 8 . . . . . . . . . . .French Veterans' Day (WWII) May/June. . . . . . . .Ascension Day* May/June. . . . . . . .Whit Sunday* May/June. . . . . . . .Whit Monday* July 14 . . . . . . . . . .Bastille Day Aug. 15. . . . . . . . . .Assumption Day Nov.1 . . . . . . . . . . .All Saints' Day Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . .Veterans Day (WWI) Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day *variable

English-language newspapers, including the International Herald Tribune, the Wall Street Journal, U S A To d a y, an d B r it i s h da i l y papers, are available throughout the city. The European editions of Time, Newsweek, and U.S. News and World Report are also available. U.S. fashion and special interest magazines can be purchased, but at highly inflated prices. Subscriptions to the International Herald Tribune and British daily papers are available, but costly.

The American Hospital of Paris in Neuilly (a Paris suburb) is a wellequipped American-style hospital with several American physicians on its French staff. The emergency room is staffed 24 hours daily with an English-speaking physician. Although it has an outpatient pediatric clinic, it has no separate pediatric unit. The large French public hospitals are well equipped and have specialists in most medical fields, and some speak English.

Brentanos, Galignani, and W.H. Smith bookstores specialize in American and British books. The Village Voice and Shakespeare and Company are equally rich Englishlanguage hunting grounds, with Shakespeare featuring reducedprice, used volumes. Tea and Tatt e r e d Pa g e s s t o c k s o n l y u s e d English books (mainly American paperbacks) and also has a small tea room. Even with the cost of postage, it is cheaper to order newly published books from the U.S.

The general level of community sanitation is good. Water in large cities is safe, but not fluoridated. Many people use a water filtering pitcher (available locally) to filter out the sediments and chemical deposits, or purchase bottled water. Good pasteurized milk is available.

No vaccination or health certificate is required for entry if coming from t h e U. S. , C a n a d a , o r We s t e r n Europe. Visas are no longer required for tourists or nonofficial business if the stay is less than 90 days.

Most personnel encounter no unusual health problems during their tour. Upper respiratory infections and allergies resulting from dust, pollen, and pollution are the most common complaints.

Cats and dogs are admitted into France if their owners can provide the following documents: certificate of good health issued one month before entry into France; an antirabies vaccination certificate issued more than 1 month, but less than 1 year, before entry into France.

A well-stocked “American Library in Paris” at 10, rue du General Camou in the 7th Arrondissement, has good American and English literature. Library facilities are open to every-

Community Health

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Both the Charles de Gaulle and Orly Airports are about a 30-minute drive from Paris. Plan to arrive during the workweek and not on weekends, or on French or American holidays.

Preventive Measures Although immunizations are not necessary for France, all Foreign Travelers should have current

Medications for pets are much less expensive in the U.S. Bring supplies with you. There are many excellent 185

France local veterinarians, several of whom have studied in the U.S. No limit is placed on foreign cash, travelers checks, or letters of credit that may be brought in. Such currency instruments must be exchanged only at authorized banks or agencies. Major U.S. banks with offices in France are Citibank, Chase Manhattan, Morgan Guaranty Trust, and Bank of America.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

Delbanco, Nicholas. Running in Place: Scenes from the South of Fr a n c e. N e w Yo r k : A t l a n t i c Monthly, 1990. Duverger, Maurice. Le systeme politique francais, P.U.F. Paris, 1985.

Zeldin, Theodore. The French. Pantheon Book: 1982.

Harrison, Michael. “France: The Diplomacy of a Self-Assured Middle Power.” National Negotiating Styles. Edited by Binnendijk, Hans. Foreign Service Institute, U.S. Department of State, Washington, D.C., 1987.

Historical Studies Bell, David S., and Byron Criddle. The French Socialist Party: The Emergence of a Party of Governm e n t . N e w Yor k : C l a r e n d o n Press, 1988.

Hoffman, Stanley, et al. In search of Fr an c e. H a r v a r d U n i v e rs i t y Press: 1963. Hoffman, Stanley. France Since the 19 30 ’s : De c l i n e o r R e ne w a l ? Viking Press: 1974. McKnight, Hugh. Slow Boat through France. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1992. Mitterand, Francois. The Wheat and the Chaff. Seaver Books: New York, 1982.

Baedeker’s France. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, latest edition.

O.E.C.D., Economic Surveys: France 1988-1989. Paris and Washington, 1989.

Bell, David S. and Criddle, Byron. The French Socialist Party: The Emergence of a Party of Government. 2nd edition. Clarendon Press: 1988.

Peyrefitte, Alain. The Trouble with France. New York University Press: 1986.

Braudel, Fernand. The Identity of France. Vol. I. “History and Environment.” Collins: 198Carroll, Raymonde. Cultural Misunderstandings: The French-American Experience. University of Chicago Press: 1987. Cobban, Alfred. A History of Modern France. Pelican Paperback, 3rd edition. Cobley, Simon. In the Heart of France: Rural Life in the Dordogne. New York: Crown, 1990. Daley, Robert. Portraits of France. New York: Little, Brown, 1991.

Zeldin, Theodore. France: 1848– 1945. Five paperbacks: Ambitions and Love, Politics and Anger, Intellect and Pride, Anxiety and Hypocrisy, Taste and Corruption Oxford University Press: 1981.

Fodor’s France. New York: McKay, latest edition.

General Reading Ardagh, John. France in the 1980’s. Penguin Book: 1982.

Bernstein, Richard. The Fragile Glory, Knops Publishers: New York, 1990.

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Pineau, Carol, and Maureen Kelly. Working in France: The Ultimate Guide to Job Hunting and Career Success a la Francaise. Somerville, MA: Zephyr Press, 1992.

Burke, Edmund. Reflections on the Revolution in Fr a n c e . Prometheus Books: 1988. Carroll, Raymonde. Cultural Misunderstandings: The FrenchAmerican Experience. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1987. Cerny, Philip G. The Politics of Grandeur: Ideological Aspects of de Gaulle’s Foreign Policy. Cambridge University Press: 1980. Cook, Don. Charles de Gaulle, A Biography. Putnam’s: New York, 1984. Durosell, Jean-Baptiste. France and t h e Unit ed Stat es : Fr om t h e Beginning to the Present. Chicago University Press: 1978. de Gaulle, Charles. War Memoirs; Memoirs of Hope. Simon and Schuster: 1964.

Safran, William. The French Polity. 2nd edition. Longman, 1985.

Pax t o n, R o b e rt. Vi ch y Fr anc e. Columbia University Press: 1982 (new edition).

Schezen, Roberto, and Laure Murat. Splendor of France: Chateaux, Mansions and Country Houses. New York: Rizzoli, 1991.

Lacouture, Jean. Charles de Gaulle. Vol I. “The Rebel.” Homes & Meier: 1988, and Vol II. “The Statesman”.

Suleiman, Ezra. Elites in French Society: The Politics of Survival. Princeton, 1978.,

Remond, Rene. The Right Wing in France: From 1815 to de Gaulle. Revised edition. University of Pennsylvania Press: 1969.

Waite, Charlie. The Villages of France. New York: Rizzoli, 1988. Wright, Vincent. The Government and Politics of France. 3rd edition. Holmes & Meier Publishers: 1989.

Shirer, William L. The Collapse of the Third Republic. Simon and Schuster: New York, Birbaum, Stephen. Birbaum’s France. Boston: Houghton-Mifflin, 1990.

GERMANY Federal Republic of Germany

Major Cities: Bonn, Berlin, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Leipzig, Munich, Stuttgart, Düsseldorf, Bremen, Dresden, Heidelberg, Cologne, Potsdam, Lübeck, Hanover, Kassel, Nuremberg, Duisburg, Dortmund, Aachen, Bochum, Augsburg

Other Cities: Bielefeld, Brunswick, Chemnitz, Dessau, Erfurt, Essen, Gelsenkirchen, Hagen, Jena, Karlsruhe, Kiel, Krefeld, Magdeburg, Mainz, Mannheim, Münster, Rostock, Schwerin, Wiesbaden, Wuppertal, Zwickau

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Germany. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION A stay in Germany, the heart of central Europe, means living and working in one of the most dynamic, progressive and interesting of European countries. Today, it is an opportunity to witness, and participate in, an important new phase of German and European history. In addition, Germany offers a high standard of living, extensive travel opportunities both within and outside the country, world-class cultural events a nd r e cr e at i o n a l f a c il it i e s f o r everyone. Despite its linguistic and cultural affinity and close ties with the U.S., Germany is a distinctly foreign experience and assignment to Germany requires adjusting to a differ-

ent pace and way of life. As Europeans, for example, Germans are more formal in business and social relationships than Americans. The national culture and its regional variations are shaped by patterns rooted in a long and unique central European history. Although English is a commonplace alternate language in parts of Germany, living in Germany will be more rewarding for those who speak German or who have the interest and initiative to take advantage of the many opportunities to learn the language. As the century ends and a new millennium begins, Germany's Government and Parliament have come back to Berlin, the nation's historic capital. The immediate postwar era is over. Both Germany and Berlin are whole again. Germany today is the world's third largest economy and the economic foundation on which the euro, Europe's common currency, rests. The years ahead are certain to be filled with exciting new challenges, new issues and new opportunities for partnership with the United States as Germany and Europe reshape themselves for the future. This country of broad variations in its geography and its culture is one that has endured a long and troubled history, often as the battlefield

for the great conflicts which have embroiled the European continent. It was not until the mid-19th century that what is now Germany became a federation; until that time, it had been a conglomeration of independent states. The empire was formed in 1871 after Prussia’s victory over France, and a period of prosperity and expansion began. Bowed by the outcome of the First World War and the subsequent economic and political chaos, Germany rose again as the Third Reich, but was finally defeated in 1945 by Allied powers and divided after the war. As a democratic republic, it has rebuilt itself into an important and influential state.

MAJOR CITIES Bonn Greater Bonn has a population of over 300,000. It was the provisional capital from 1949–91. Although Berlin has been reinstated as Germany’s capital, Bonn remains, for the time being the country’s political nucleus. The city is studded with buildings that house a myriad of official government offices. Bonn is also known as a university town and as the birthplace of Beethoven. The house Beethoven was born in is now 187

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a museum and is probably Bonn’s best known attraction. Bonn has a large concert hall, the Beethovenhalle, and a opera house. Bonn’s Rheinisches-Landes-Museum contains the skull of the famous Neanderthal man. The city, badly damaged during World War II, had not been restored by 1949 when it became the provisional capital. Facilities had to be found or built to provide housing and office space for the German ministries and various embassies, foreign journalists, etc. Existing facilities were converted to government use, and new ministries were built in a simple, functional style. Most embassies found or built structures for chanceries in Bonn, but diplomatic corps residences are located throughout the area from Cologne to Remagen, a distance of some 40 miles.

Food The availability of food on the German market is much the same as in the U.S. Local German markets are well stocked, and open-air markets sell excellent seasonal fruits and vegetables. German grocery stores are somewhat smaller than their American counterparts, but the selections are generally good. Most German grocery stores carry fresh fruits and vegetables. Hours of operation are somewhat restricted compared to the U.S., with most shops closing at 6:30 pm on weeknights and at 2 pm on Saturdays. No Sunday shopping is available.

Clothing Bonn has a moderate, maritime climate. Although lightweight summer clothing is generally not needed here, warm, humid spells can be expected most years. Warm clothing and rain gear are a must. Hat, gloves and a warm winter coat are advisable. The Plittersdorf Sales Store stocks a small quantity of American and European-made clothing. Local clothing is fashionable but expensive, and sizing is dif188

f e r e n t . C h i l d r e n ’s cl o t h e s a r e especially expensive. Shoes are also expensive in Germany, and half, small, and narrow sizes are difficult to find.

Supplies and Services German stores are well stocked for all household needs. Tailoring, shoe repair, dry-cleaning, laundry, and beauty shops are availabl e in Plitters dor f and other nearby German areas.

Religious Activities Roman Catholic and Protestant services are conducted in English in the American Stimson Memorial Chapel in Plittersdorf. A full-time Catholic priest and two Protestant ministers serve the community. Sunday school, CCD, youth fellowship programs, Bible study, and prayer meetings are offered. The Latter-day Saints, AnglicanEpiscopal, Baptist, and Christian Science churches hold English services outside the community. A Jewish synagogue in Bonn offers services in German.

Education The Bonn American Schools, operated by the Department of Defense Dependents School System (DoDDS), are accredited by the North Central Association. The elementary school offers instruction in kindergarten through grade 5, and the middle/high school grades 6 to 12. Both schools comprise about 500 students. Foreign students repres enti ng 45 c oun tri es make u p almost 50 percent of the student population.

5 years of German and French and 2 years of Spanish. Music and art are also offered, as well as courses in home economics, industrial arts, and business. The school has an excellent reputation, with strong departments in foreign language, science, business, television media, music, and computer science. The extracurricular program (ECP) has an especially strong Athletic Department, with teams in football, wrestling, girls and boys golf, tennis, track, basketball, cross-country, soccer, and girls volleyball. The girls teams have won many championships over the past 4 years. The school competes in the Benenor Conference (Belgian, Netherlands, and North Germany). Other ECP offerings vary from year to year, but generally the school offers a band, chorus, yearbook, and school newspaper. The video club, which was started during the 1983–84 school year, is especially strong, with two weekly closed-circuit programs within the Plittersdorf community. (Although not a DoDDS-sponsored program, the community hosts a very active swim team that competes with military schools all over Europe.) The high school has offered the International Baccalaureate Diploma (IB) since the 1982–83 school year, and the Advanced Placement Program (AP) since February 1983. There is an active Advanced Studies Program, which includes TAG (talented and gifted), IB, AP, Independent Study, and Accelerated Middle School Program. There are also strong programs in Special Education and English-as-a-second language (ESL).

School standards and curriculum equal those of U.S. public schools. In addition to the regular academic curriculum, the elementary school provides special classes in talented and gifted instruction and individualized instruction for special education students.

Each school has its own School Advisory Council (SAC) and an active PTSA. Though advisory in nature, these volunteer organizations are highly influential in the successful operation of the two schools.

The high school curriculum is considered to be excellent and covers 4 years of English, science, mathematics, and social studies, as well as

Both schools earned the number one spot in DoDDS-Germany on the California Test of Basic Skills (CTBS) in May of 1987 and 1988,

Germany

Cities of the World with the high school repeating the rating for the second year. The elementary school was number 1 of about 90 schools, while the high school was ranked 1 among the 28 DoDDS high schools. Bonn American High is one of three DoDDS schools in the last 6 years to receive this award. Both schools score consistently in the top 5 percent. Tuition at the Bonn American Schools, which ranged from $7,200– $7,500 for the 1992–93 school year, goes up annually at about the same rate as inflation in the U.S. For information write:

Bonn American High School PSC 117 Box 390 APO AE 09080 or Bonn American Elementary School PSC 117 Box 125 APO AE 09080–0005 Some American ch ildren have attended the British Embassy Preparatory School. The tuition is about $4,000. The school offers a British education for boys and girls in kindergarten through grade 8 (13 years of age maximum). The independent school can respond flexibly and quickly to parent-student concerns. If children are ready, they read in kindergarten. Emphasis is placed on composition, spelling, grammar, reading, and reading comprehension. American achievement tests are given by special arrangement. For information write: The British Embassy Preparatory School Tulpenbaumweg 42 53177 Bonn A British secondary school is available for grades 9 to 12. For information write: British High School, Bonn e.V. Gotenstrasse 50 53175 Bonn Tel. (0228) 37–40–84

The Bonn International Academy serves ages 3–16 and describes itself as offering a solid academic program based on the British School System with special consideration for the needs of the diplomatic child. For information write: Bonn International Academy Godesberger Allee 24 53175 Bonn Tel. (0228) 37–77–88 The Nicolaus-Cusanus Gymnasium is an up-to-date German school which covers grades 5 to 13. The school population is one-quarter foreign and three-quarters German. Children up to age 15 who do not know German or who have inadequate classroom German are placed in “German for Foreigners” classes for up to 1 year or until their German is adequate. Tuition is free as are most of the books. There are minor expenses for extra books and supplies. Space in the foreigners’ program is limited, and parents who plan to enroll their children should correspond promptly with the school at: The Nicolaus-Cusanus Gymnasium Hindenbergallee 50 53175 Bonn Other German elementary and secondary schools have been used by a few American families. Interested families should allow time to investigate the possibilities after arrival in Bonn. The Bonn American Preschool, operated by AEA, provides a preschool program for children 3–5 years old. A typical school-day includes free play in the classroom, songs and stories, quiet activities, handicrafts, outdoor play, and cleanup. Creativity and self-expression are emphasized. Occasionally, there is a waiting list. AEA also operates a kindergarten. Preference is given to U.S. Government dependents, but you should enroll your children by mail if you plan to arrive in Bonn late in the s u m me r. T u it i o n pr o v i de s t h e

school’s income. For preschool information write: Bonn American Preschool Kennedyallee 115 53175 Bonn or PSC 117 Box 270 APO AE 09080 (0228) 37–95–86 The Daycare Center This facility provides a baby-sitting service for children aged 6 weeks to 5 years. It is open 5 days a week from 8 am to 6 pm. Fees are about $2.35 per hour on a monthly basis and $3 per hour on a drop-in basis. In addition, there is now an Infant Room which provides day-care to infants from 6 weeks to 14 months. Hours are the same as the Day Care and charges are about $4 per hour.

Special Educational Opportunities Bonn’s night schools, called Volkshochschulen, offer courses in German for foreigners and instruction in political science, philosophy, the arts, literature, sports, cooking, art, etc. Fees are moderate. Night schools sponsor trips to places of interest, film showings, and lectures. The Bonn University offers the following courses: theology, law, politic a l s c i e n c e , m e d i c i n e , a r t s, mathematics, science, agriculture, economics, education, and social science. German-speaking foreign students are welcomed. Tuition is free. German universities begin at the college junior level by U.S. standards. In Bonn, the University of Maryland offers various undergraduate courses. For American University courses at nearby military facilities.

Sports Golfers have access to several challenging golf courses. An international riding school, German tennis clubs, swimming and rowing clubs, and athletic clubs, all with limited membership, are available in the Bonn-Bad Godesberg area. Ameri189

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can children may play on local German soccer teams. While not as extensive, there are opportunities for freshwater and deep-sea fishing.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The beautiful countryside around Bonn invites touring. There are many castles, Roman ruins and charming villages. Bonn is situated on the navigable Rhine River, and during summer, river cruises are popular. The area has excellent opportunities for cycling and hiking. Organized hikes through the German countryside or “Volks-marching” is a German pastime. Skiing is possible during the winter months in the nearby Eifel Mountains and in the Hartz Mountains. Within easy range of Bonn, the Rhine, Mosel, and Ahr Valleys with their vineyards, castles, and restaurants offer extensive and intensive exploring. More distant points of cultural and historical interest are easily accessible by rail or car on weekends. Because Bonn enjoys a central European location, day trips to Belgium, Luxembourg, and Holland are possible.

Entertainment Theater, art galleries, museums, and musical performances may be found in any German city of more than 100,000. Although Bonn provides fewer recreational and cultural facilities than most European capitals, it has excellent facilities for a city of its size. Besides art galleries and museums, Bonn has the Beethovenhalle, in which concerts are given two or three evenings a week. Theaters and the opera house present plays, ballet, or opera each evening. Düsseldorf (population 675,000) is only 45 minutes away by c a r, a n d C o l o g n e ( p o p u l a t i o n 994,000) is only 30 minutes away. Operas, plays, first-rate symphony orchestras, nightclubs, and good restaurants are found in both cities. Bonn celebrated the 2,000th anniversary of its founding in 1989, with 190

festivities that were held throughout the year.

Social Activities The American Women’s Group sponsors cultural, educational, and welfare activities. Other activities are available through the Bonn Booster Club, the PTSA, the Teen Club, Girl and Boy Scout Troops, and a Cub Scout Pack and Brownies for boys and girls. A German-American “Friends of Music” Group arranges concerts by German and American artists in private homes. The International Stammtisch arranges speakers one night a month at the American Embassy Club.

Berlin Berlin is a capital city with a turbulent past, the crucible of a century of history. Reduced to rubble by World War II bombing, and starkly divided by the Cold War, the city has survived and prospered through the courage, optimism and determination of its citizens. Today, Berlin has a population of nearly four million. The city is situated on the North German Plain about 100 miles south of the Baltic Sea and 50 miles west of the Oder River, the modern border between Poland and Germany. Berlin is one of three German cities that comprise a separate Land a lthough it is completel y s urrounded by Land Brandenburg. The city is divided into 20 districts, each with its own name, ruling authority and history. Since 1990, but especially since a huge construction and modernization boom started in middecade, the city has experienced a process of radical economic and physical change as well as a significant cultural renaissance. Berlin is once again the seat of Germany's Government and Parliament and the move of ministries, offices and embassies from Bonn is continuing. Berlin's climate is similar to the northeastern U.S. even though the city lies at a much more northerly latitude. Overcast days are not uncommon and summers tend to be cool and rainy although uncomfort-

able summer heat waves do occur. Winters are cool and temperatures between 20°F and 40°F are usual f r o m D e c e m b e r t o Fe b r u a r y although much colder days and nights are not infrequent along with periodic snowfalls. Berlin is one of Europe's most celebrated green cities with over 20 percent of its area devoted to parks. Although completely landlocked, Berlin is also a lakeside city, with an extensive complex of forested urban parks and lakes where residents enjoy swimming, sailing, water sports and sunning. There are several Internet sites with Berlin-specific information. A good starting point is: http:// www.berlin-info.de with Englishlanguage information about Berlin and excellent links to scores of other Berlin-relevant sites. to maintain their own grounds. Many yards are very large, and you may wish to check with GSO before packing out to determine if you will need to ship gardening equipment. L aw n m o w e r s a r e p r o v i d e d t o Department of State employees (other agencies have their own policies concerning furnishings and equipment).

Food The availability of food in German food stores is much the same as in the U.S. albeit with some important differences. Retail shopping is tightly controlled in Germany and the inconvenient shopping hours present serious challenges to working couples. Most food shops are closed evenings, Sundays and holidays and are tightly shut by midafternoon on Saturdays. Fortunately, loosening restrictions in Berlin have resulted in many major supermarkets remaining open until 7:00 or 8:00 p.m. on weekdays, and popular “warehouse” stores are open as late as 10:00 p.m. on weekdays and 6:00 p.m. on Saturdays. Outdoor farmers market s and neighborhood groceries are a feature of city life throughout Berlin. Fresh fruits and vegetables are excellent but availability is dis-

Germany

Cities of the World tinctly seasonal. The German diet usually emphasizes meat (especially pork) at the expense of fish but fresh and smoked fish along with excellent poultry and game are available in most large markets. Fine bakeries are everywhere with huge selections of fresh bread and rolls and other tempting baked goods often made on the premises. German and other European wines and cheeses are widely available. Familiar U.S. products are found in most large supermarkets although favorite breakfast cereals, for example, may be slightly altered for the European palate. Ethnic food shops are scattered throughout the city. Berlin's famous Kaufhaus des Westens Department Store (popularly known by its initials, KaDeWe, or “Kah-Day-Vay”) has a specialty food hall that rivals Harrod's in London with a huge (and quite expensive) selection of gourmet-quality fresh and imported food items which can be bought for home or consumed on the premises. Generally, food prices in Germany are somewhat higher than in the U.S.

Clothing Clothing suitable for autumn and winter wear in Washington, D.C. will be ideal for Berlin. The climate is generally much cooler than Washington's. Clothing for men and women is readily available in Berlin with shops ranging from expensive boutiques offering familiar designer labels to more moderately-priced department stores. Clothing is usually costly in Europe, especially children's clothes, but quality is high and most goods are European-made. On the other hand, good European shoes are also widely available, usually at prices lower than in the U.S. Priority mail should be requested for mail order clothing from the U.S. Internet ordering significantly lowers telephone charges when dealing with the large U.S mail order suppliers.

Supplies and Services As with most large European cities, Berlin offers a nearly unlimited range of supplies and services. There are differences however, between U.S. and European stan-

Street scene in Berlin

dards and practices that sometime make locating a particular item or familiar service difficult. Such services as laundry and dry cleaning, hair stylists for men and women, shoe repair and tailoring arc readily available in most neighborhood at prices somewhat higher than in the U.S.

Domestic Help Domestic help is difficult to obtain and expensive in Berlin although agencies exist to provide domestic services. Employers are expected to comply rigorously with applicable German immigration and social security laws which control legal status, working conditions and the payment of required taxes.

Religious Activities Church services and Sunday School activities-both Protestant and Roman Catholic-are held in various Berlin Churches. English-language Protestant services are conducted in the American Church in Berlin. Berlin has a growing Jewish community, now more than 10,000 members, and Jewish services are held at locations throughout the city. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints has an active community in Berlin. In addition, there are several other active Prot-

Courtesy of Mira Bossowska

estant denominations, many of which offer services in English, and a particularly large Muslim community.

Education The JFK School is part of the German public school system and is a special bicultural German-American community school originally established in 1960. English-speaking students are taught in English and study German until their German reaches a level of fluency to enable them to join German-language classes. The JFK School includes grades K-12 and offers a U.S. high school diploma (or a German diploma through its arbitur program which requires a 13th grade). The school currently has an enrollment of more than 1,000 students equally divided between German and foreign. The schoo l's faculty is made up of Germans, Americans and other nationalities. There are tutoring programs in reading and mathematics available at the JFK School. However, there are no facilities for children with special learning problems or children who have unusual physical or emotional needs. Questions about special educational issues should be addressed to the school Managing 191

Germany Principal, John F. Kennedy School, 95-123 Teltower Damm, 14167 Berlin, Germany. You can also find the JFK School on the Internet at: http:/ / www.kennedy.beehive.de. Some American children attend the B e r l i n / Po t s d a m I n t e r n a t i o n a l School (BPIS), located near Potsdam. The BPIS offers the international baccalaureate program and the U.S. High School Diploma. The language of instruction is English. Other children attend the Berlin British School (BBS). The BBS offers nursery, primary and middle school programs for children between the ages of three and 13. The curriculum is based on the English national curriculum, but has been adjusted to roughly match those of other international schools. The language of instruction is English. The BBS is located in the Berlin district of Charlottenburg. Finally, some American children also attend standard Berlin public schools nearby their homes, where all instruction is in German. In addition, there are other schools in Berlin with international student bodies. Together with the JFK School and other schools mentioned here, there are an increasing number of school options in Berlin providing American parents with unusually wide schooling choices. Parents should investigate the available choices and seek the best possible match for their school-age children. Various preschool and day care options are also available in Berlin.

Special Educational Opportunities There are three large universities in Berlin: the Humboldt University, founded in 1910, and located in Berlin's Mitte District; the Free University of Berlin, founded in the postwar period and located in Dahlem; and the Berlin Technical University located in Charlottenburg. Instruction at Berlin's universities is in German. Several U.S. universities offer extension and correspondence courses in Berlin. 192

Cities of the World Sports Berlin offers many private and public athletic facilities. These include private and semi-private golf courses, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, sailing facilities and outdoor sports fields throughout the city. Although Berlin's terrain is flat, a few natural snow slopes exist for downhill skiers. Most nearby ski areas are for cross country skiing, a popular German wintertime recreation when snow conditions permit. Ice skating is also popular and there are several rinks open in winter. The Botanical Gardens and Museum and the extensive Grünewald and Tegel Forests provide extensive sites for family outings and parts of the Grünewald and Wannsee areas are designated nature preserves. The Wannsee is home to one of Europe's largest lake beaches. Running along city streets or pedestrian sidewalk, is not customary in Europe (although not uncommon in Berlin). There are many trails and paths reserved for biking and running, especially in the Grünewald which is crisscrossed with bike and pedestrian paths. The Tiergarten, Berlin's Central Park, and the grounds of Charlottenburg Palace also offer good runs for joggers.

Entertainment Berlin's reputation as a great city for art suffered from the depravations of war and political division but now, with the reunification of Berlin, and the shift of the heart of the city eastwards to its historic and cultural center that had been East Berlin, the city is enjoying a cultural rejuvenation. A dramatic new center for culture has opened at the edge of the Tiergarten near the reconstructed Potsdamer Platz and is the new location for museums of modern art and the 18th and 19th century collections of the Gemaldegalerie, formerly situated in Dahlem. Meanwhile, in the Mitte District. Berlin's Museuminsel, home to the “old” National Gallery and museums of classical art, is undergoing renovation with plans for a dramatic new work by archi-

tect I.M. Pei on the drawing boards. Charlottenburg Palace houses several museums including Berlin's well-known Egyptian Museum. home to the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti. Berlin is one of Europe's greatest cities for serious music. The Berlin Philharmonic is one of the world's premier orchestras. 11 performs in a sparkling new Philharmonic Hall in the Tiergarten complex. In addition. the city has three opera houses. The Berlin music season is long and feature, performances annually by nearly all the world's finest companies, dancers. musicians, conductors and singers, with both traditional and modern programs, Theater is a Berlin staple and, although most productions on the Berlin stage are naturally in German, there are local Englishlanguage theater groups and occasional visits by English-speaking touring companies. Most American films reach Europe about three months after their U.S, openings. Foreign films (and television programs too) are dubbed in Germany although films are shown in their original language at some Berlin movie theaters. The Berlin Film Festival brings many of the world's best films to Berlin each February. Berlin after dark offers plenty of entertainment for night-owls. Cabarets, dance clubs, rock and jazz joints and bars proliferate in all parts of the city. Fine restaurants at all prices are everywhere offering German and continental cuisine in addition to a huge variety of ethnic restaurants for every budget. In summer, the city blossoms with sidewalk restaurants and outdoor cafes fine for eating, drinking or just plain people-watching. Kids will love Berlin's famous Zoo, especially the giant Pandas, the bridge over the reptile pit and the attached Aquarium with 9,000 varieties of fish.

Social Activities There are probably more opportunities in Berlin for making contact

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© Owen Franken/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Central Frankfurt, Germany

with the local American and international community than hours in the day. Many social contacts tend to flow from professional relationships although several more traditional community and church-based organizations exist and have active social programs and sponsor fundraising activities. The Berlin Chapter of the Steuben-Schurz Society brings Americans together with prominent Berliners for lectures by distinguished speakers. The Berlin American Chamber of Commerce provides a forum for business contacts and activities with a commercial-economic focus. The Society of Parents and Friends of the John F. Kennedy School offers opportunities for parents to be involved with the school and to meet Berlin officials involved in supporting bilingual education.

Frankfurt Germany's fifth largest city and most important transportation hub, Frankfurt am Main is Land Hes-

sen's giant urban center (the Land capital is nearby at Wiesbaden). The population is about 660,000 but the total metropolitan area includes many clustered towns and exceeds one million. The city is located on the Main River and is about 25 miles east of the river's confluence with the commercially important Rhine River at Mainz. The new European Central Bank is headquartered in Frankfurt. The presence of this bank, perhaps 400 other financial institutions and over 800 American businesses make Frankfurt one of Europe's most important commercial and financial marketplaces. The Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Center (Messeglande) is one of the principal sites in the world for trade events, including the well-known Motor Show and International Book Fair. The cosmopolitan nature of Frankfurt is reflected in its major airport complex with regular non-stop flights to virtually all regional cit-

ies, including cities in Europe and beyond, as well as daily flights to various destinations in the U.S. Approximately 90 airlines from nearly as many countries use the Frankfurt Main Airport. Frankfurt is proud of its long and distinguished history. It has been a center for trade and banking for some 700 years. Until Prussia assumed control in 1866, the Free City of Frankfurt was, for 400 years, the site of the election of the Holy Roman Emperor. The “Romer” is the traditional symbol of Frankfurt. This historic building in downtown Frankfurt has been the city hall since 1405. Frankfurt has long and illustrious ties with the New World-early visitors to Frankfurt included such distinguished Americans as William Penn, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. More detailed information about the city of Frankfurt can be found on the Internet, at English-language 193

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sites such as: http://www.frankfurt.de http://www.maincity.de One of Germany's most important newspapers, Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, has an excellent German-language site at: http:// www.faz.de

Food Americans normally use German shops and markets as well. These are amply stocked with excellent fresh produce, dairy products and baked goods and a different mix of local and imported items, often at surprisingly moderate prices. Most fruits and vegetables can be found throughout the year, although prices rise for imported, out-of-season goods. Ethnic food and ingredients-particularly Asian and Middle Eastern-are easier to find in Frankfurt than at most other German cities.

Clothing

in educational facilities. All students receive an education allowance, which will cover tuition and fees to schools listed here. Any costs exceeding the approved educational allowances, however, must be paid by the parents. For example, costs for field trips associated with the school's program will normally be the responsibility of the parent. To ob tain ad ditional informa tion regarding the schools, please write to: Frankfurt International School (FIS) An der Waldlust 15, D-61440 Oberursel. International School of Frankfurt Albert-Blank-Strasse 50 D-65931 Frankfurt am Main. Halvorsen-Tunner American School (DoDDS - elementary) Rhein-Main Air Base, Bldg 610, Gateway Gardens 60549 Frankfurt.

Frankfurt can often be overcast but its location along the Main River generally helps moderate the temperature extremes. Since the temperatures have been historically relatively mild in the summer months, few German facilities are air-conditioned but this is changing as new office buildings are constructed and others renovated. The frequency of misty or rainy weather also prompts the regular use of umbrellas. Winters can be quite cold but snow seldom accumulates.

H. Arnold High School (DoDDS) Texas Strasse Geb. 190, 65189 Wiesbaden/Hainerberg.

Because Frankfurt is Germany's financial capital, dress tends to be “banker conservative,” although many contemporary designers are represented in trendy Frankfurt wardrobes. Local stores offer a full range of clothing in European sizes. Prices tend to be more expensive than U.S. department store standards.

Special Educational Opportunities

Education The Carl Schurz School, located in the Siedlung area, provides a preschool for children aged two-four, and a day-care facility.

The DoDDS High School is accredited by the North Central Association; the FIS High School by the Middle States Association and the European Council of International Schools; the ISF school is a Sabis affiliated school and is not yet U.S. accredited. All schools offer athletic and extr acurr icular acti vities throughout the school year.

In addition to full-time university studies in Mannheim, the European program of the University of Maryland offers a variety of evening classes at the local U.S. military facilities. The Education Center at RheinMainAir Base may be contacted to answer questions concerning costs and requirements. There are also classes offered through the City Colleges of Chicago, Troy State University, and the University of Oklahoma.

Sports Parents with school-age family members have a number of choices 194

Other sports including golf and swimming are locally available. Pro-

f e s s i o n a l s p o r t s i n Fr a n k f u r t include soccer, basketball and a professional American football team, the Frankfurt Galaxy, sponsored in p a r t b y t h e N a t i o n a l Fo o t b a l l League, with regular games in the European league.

Entertainment Opera, ballet, concerts, music recitals and theater are available in Frankfurt and nearby Wiesbaden. Additionally, Frankfurt boasts excellent English-language theater with regular productions in the heart of the city. First-run movies in English are also available at several theaters in addition to movie theaters at U.S. military installations, including a popular theater at the Rhein-Main Air Base area known as Gateway Gardens.

Social Activities The American Women's Club of the Taunus is a particularly active organization with special programs and events.

Hamburg Hamburg, the second largest city in Germany (1.7 million inhabitants) is best known for its port. That image, however, is only a small part of a city that, for most Americans, is one of the best-kept secrets in Europe. Built around the Alster, a lake that is the size of Monaco, the city is graced with large open spaces (half the area is either water or parkland), elegant architecture and a thriving cultural life. Hamburg has the highest per-capita income of any region in the European Union, and the city is noted for stylish boutiques as well as a large and varied selection of fine restaurants. The relatively modern look of Hamburg belies its age. In 1189, Hamburg was granted the right to a free trade zone and, in 1321, joined the Hanseatic League. Because of wood construction, the city was repeatedly destroyed by fires, the latest being in 1842. In the last decades of the 19th century, Hamburg underwent a building boom and the city took on its current outline by adding port areas, parks, and beautiful

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Cities of the World buildings and homes constructed in Jugendstil architecture. During World War II, over sixty percent of Hamburg was destroyed. The city rebuilt many architectural treasures while maintaining a low skyline of new buildings of brick, steel and glass that reflect the city's maritime tradition. Trade is still the backbone of Hamburg's prosperity. The city boasts the second largest port in Europe and the fifth largest container port in the world, despite the fact that ships must travel 68 miles down the Elbe River to reach the North Sea. In addition, the city is a center for media (print, TV, and multi-media), insurance and aerospace (it has the second largest number of workers in the aircraft industry after Seattle). The weather in Hamburg is generally rainy and can be quite cool. Spring is lovely, with blooming tulips, daffodils and other flowers around the Alster and parks. Hamburgers take advantage of all sunny days (sometimes they are few) and can be found walking or having coffee or a beer at an outdoor cafe. Sweater-weather is common even in the summer although, on the occasional hot day, the weather can be humid and sticky. Winter days are frequently overcast, with temperatures similar to Washington but with the north German darkness approaching by 4:00 p.m.

Food Almost all foodstuffs are available on the local market. There are many types of markets ranging from small mom-and-pop stores to large hypermarkets to open-air markets. German food quality and sanitation standards are extremely high. In general, most food items can be more expensive and a few baking ingredients and some processed foods may be more difficult to find; however, this is changing monthly.

Supplies and Services Well-stocked German stores sell all European-style household items and are generally well made, but can be more expensive. Stores are generally open from 10:00 a.m. until

6:00 p.m., with the larger stores open until 8:00 p.m. during the week. Saturday hours are from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. On Sundays, all stores are closed except those located at train and gas stations. All normal services are available on the local economy in Hamburg although prices and, in some cases, quality may differ from U.S. standards. A variety of Internet Service Providers (ISP) exist, such as CompuServe, AOL, UUNET and Deutsche Telekom's T OnLine, for local Internet connections. Prices tend to be more expensive than in the U.S. Local phone

Religious Activities English-language services are held at the Lutheran Petrikirche, International Baptist Church, the English Church of St. Thomas a Becket, the Methodist Church, St. Elisabeth Roman Catholic Church, International Christian Fellowship and the Church of the Latter-Day Saints. Orthodox services are also available, but not in English. There is one Orthodox Jewish synagogue (services are in Hebrew and German.) There is a large Muslim community with several Mosques.

Education Most school-age American family members attend the International School of Hamburg (ISH), which is situated in the western section of the city, about 45 minutes from the city center of Hamburg. This is the only school in Hamburg in which the principal language of instruction is English. The school is divided into two sections, the Early Learning Center/Junior School (equivalent to preschool through grade 5 in the U.S.) and the Secondary School (grades 6 to 12). ISH is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and as well, offers the International Baccalaureate (IB) diploma program. All students are tested before official acceptance. Children must be at least five years old by October 1 to enter the ISH kindergarten program.

There are 520 students representing 45 nationalities. Classes are generally small, from 14 to 20 students. Music, art and drama classes are offered; however, sport programs are not as comprehensive as in an American public school. The school is in the process of a major expansion program that should be completed by 2000. The school arranges bus transportation to and from the ISH campus for children in kindergarten through grade 5 who live in the downtown area. Secondary students are not offered this option, but public transportation, the norm, is quite convenient and safe. Special needs education: Certain opportunities exist for students with special needs at ISH and are considered on a case-by-case analysis every year. Contact the school in advance for more details. For further information or applications for ISH, the address is: The International School of Hamburg Holmbrook 20, 22605 Hamburg, Germany Tel: (40) 8830010, Fax: (40) 88300199. E-mail: mail to: [email protected] German public and private schools accept foreign students, but instruction is in German. There is also a French Lycee for those interested in the French school system. There are many good German kindergartens (equivalent of American preschool), but waiting lists may be long for some of these kindergartens.

Special Educational Opportunities Four different universities in the area offer a variety of degree programs in English. Rice University in collaboration with the University of Bremen and the City of Bremen is establishing an international, private, research university in Bremen that will grant undergraduate and graduate degrees similar to U.S. universities. Purdue University in collaboration with the State of Lower Saxony is establishing a private business school in Hannover and will offer MBA degree pro195

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grams. The University of Hamburg is establishing an International Center for Advanced Studies, which will offer an international MBA degree program. The Technical University of Hamburg-Hamburg offers Bachelor and Master degree programs in engineering.

Sports Hamburgers are quite serious about sport and exercise, and because of this, Hamburg has a wonderful selection of sports and sport facilities. Swimming is available yeararound, with exceptionally nice, inexpensive and numerous indoor swimming pools. In the winter, there are several popular outdoor ice-skating rinks. The centrally located Alster Lake and many miles of intertwining canals offer wonderful opportunities for rowing and sailing in the summer, with a number of rowing, sailing and windsurfing schools available. Tennis and horseback riding are also very popular and many schools can be found in the area. Hamburg abounds with playgrounds and parks. The Alster Lake, beautiful open areas and woods in the vicinity offer opportunities for walking and picnics. A pleasant way to discover the city and the surrounding countryside is by bicycle. Hamburg has an extensive system of bike paths, which make most of the city easily accessible by bicycle.

Entertainment As a major European city, Hamburg provides something for everyone, from the prestigious opera and ballet to its many museums, from the Harbor Birthday to a night out on the world-famous Reeperbahn. The Hamburg State Opera is considered one of the world's leading opera houses and is the oldest in Germany. The Hamburg Ballet is world class and has been under the direction of an American since 1973. Three important orchestras are based in Hamburg. Jazz music enthusias ts will not be disappointed; the city offers year-round quality entertainment. Hamburg has some 30 theaters that are con196

sidered among the best in Germany. The English Theater group presents plays several times a year with professional actors recruited from London. The Hamburg Players, an amateur theater group, also presents plays in English. In German cinemas, most films are dubbed into German, but “original version” English language films are shown at more than one city location. There are several video stores with a large selection of current and classic English language videos. Most are in the PAL format, with a few in NTSC. For up-to-date information in English on events in Hamburg, see the Internet site www.hamburgguide.de.

Social Activities There are eight American-related clubs in Hamburg, which cover a wide range of interests such as social contacts, business networking, volunteer activities, and current events. Again, there are a number of international clubs that hold meetings and lectures and conduct activities to promote international un derstanding and friendship through the English language. The International School is an important venue for international contacts for those with school age children. There are also numerous activities of the Consular Corps, depending on one's rank and function.

Leipzig Situated in the center of the former GDR's industrial triangle, famous for its chemicals, steel, heavy engineering, and publishing, Leipzig has a proud heritage as home to the world's first and longest-running trade fair, more than 825 years old. An impressive fairground facility, between downtown Leipzig and the Leipzig-Halle Airport, was opened in April 1996. Banking, communications, and the service sector have largely replaced heavy manufacturing since German reunification.

Although Leipzig still bears scars of neglect and mismanagement, first at the hands of the Nazis and later under the yoke of the Communists, thousands of buildings have been restored or renovated, new construction abounds, and the infrastructure is on its way to becoming state-of-the-art. Eastern Germany already has the finest telephone system in Europe, and thousands of miles of roads have been widened, repaired, or replaced in the last ten years. Leipzig's citizens played a primary role in toppling the Communist regime, demonstrating bravery en masse with peaceful demonstrations that sealed the end of the GDR in the fall of 1989. Throughout the C o n su l a r Di st ri ct , t h e U ni t e d States, its people and policies, remain a source of considerable interest and curiosity; countless sister-city relationships, exchange programs, economic partnerships, and the like have been created in the past decade, and many more are in the planning stages. Additional information about Leipzig in English and German can be found on the Internet at http:// www.leipzig.com. The climate in Leipzig is moderate, although each summer there are generally several days above 90°F and each winter temperatures go down below zero E Rain is frequent (average 20-30 inches annually), and it generally snows several times each winter.

Food Local markets are well-stocked with all types of food items. Store hours are limited; most shops close at 6 p.m. on weekdays and shortly after noon on Saturdays, and are closed Sundays, although by law stores may remain open until 8 p.m. weekdays and 4 p.m. on Saturdays. Neighborhood markets are augmented by large discount retailers located in newly built shopping malls, as well as the Leipzig Central Station, where stores are exceptionally permitted to remain open until 10 p.m.

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Cities of the World Leipzig as well as other major cities in the district offers a wide variety of excellent restaurants, ranging from Saxon specialties to Italian and Asian delicacies. Fast food outlets abound. Prices are notably higher than in the Washington, D.C. area.

Transportation A car is certainly not indispensable, though a few tourist sites are not accessible by public transport. At present many highways are in the process of being widened or rebuilt, causing extensive traffic jams, accidents, and other delays. Train travel is frequent and with a rail pass (Bahncard) relatively inexpensive. Traveling by train not only eliminates the headaches of negotiating traffic, but is also substantially faster. Within Leipzig buses, streetcars, and taxis are accessible and relatively inexpensive. Bus or streetcar tickets are generally obtained from machines (located at only the major stops) before boarding, although they may also be purchased from the conductor at a higher price. Taxis operate from several stands in the center, or may be called by telephone. For motorists, well-established car dealers and workshops offer a full range of services.vehicles.

Clothing Standards for street and business dress are similar to those in Washington, D.C. Formal attire is rarely required. For most evening functions, a dark suit or cocktail dress usually suffices. Given the variable climate, a flexible wardrobe is useful. Given the large number of cobblestoned streets, several good pairs of walking shoes are advisable. Raingear and umbrellas get frequent use most of the year. Prices in local stores are high in comparison to the United States, and local stocks may be limited. However, gaps in local supply may be filled by shopping trips to Berlin, a two-hour drive.

Religious Activities Regular Protestant, Catholic, Mormon, Russian Orthodox, and Jewish religious services are offered in Ger-

man by various congregations in Leipzig. A British pastor offers English-language services at the Anglican Church in Leipzig on an irregular basis.

Supplies and Services A wide array of toiletries, cosmetics, and household products is available in Leipzig. Although all American brands are not represented, in nearly all cases there is an adequate alternative. Prices are, however, higher. Dry cleaning services are of variable quality. Hairdressers are generally very good. Most repair services are more than adequate.

Education Leipzig International School currently offers classes from Kindergarten through Grade 9 in English, based on a U.S. curriculum. The school intends to add one grade per year as part of the International Baccalaureate Program.

Special Educational Opportunities Leipzig has University, Music Academy, Art Institute, and Volkshochschule (adult education institution) courses for those with German-language ability. Leipzig University is one of the oldest Germans peaking universities. The French, British, and Polish governments also have active cultural centers in town.

Sports The Leipzig region offers opportunities for exploration of the area's rich cultural and historical heritage and is blessed with extensive parklands. Recreational facilities include swimming pools, bowling alleys, and fitness centers. Horseback riding is available nearby. Saxony's Erzgebirge offer opportunities for winter sports as does Thuringia's Rennsteig.

Entertainment Cultural opportunities in this part of Germany are particularly extensive. Leipzig's world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra and innovative Opera perform most of the year,

augmented by guest performances in the Gewandhaus's first class philharmonic hall. Other theaters include Leipzig's Schauspielhaus and the Musikalische Komedie, which offer a wide variety of drama. Leipzig's Kabaretts, well-known throughout the German speaking world, serve up a special brand of biting political humor. The region is also home to no fewer than eight other opera companies within a twohour radius, including Dresden's world-famous Semperoper. Dresden's Zwinger complex offers an Old Masters art collection to rival the leading collections in Western Europe, and the nearby Albertinum houses the treasures of the “Grunes Gewolbe.” Weimar, the European Cultural Capital in 1999, is the home of the Goethe and Schiller houses and a splendid “Schloss” decorated in the Classical style, and Eisenach's Wartburg is the medieval castle whose “Singers' War” was made popular by Wagner's opera Tannhauser. Local movie theaters offer recent releases, generally dubbed into German. Leipzig hosts several museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts, located in temporary quarters while a new facility is built, the Grassi Ethnographic and Decorative Arts Museum, Egyptian Museum, and several collections covering the historic Battle of Nations, scene of Napoleon's defeat in 1813. Travelling exhibits are often displayed in the various institutions. Leipzig's traditional Christmas Market sets the tone for Holiday activities, while Dresden's Strietzelmarkt is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. The region is home to a number of festivals and celebrations, many related to its rich musical history. Leipzig's nightlife revolves around various bars and discotheques, as well as Moritzbastei, a universityassociated club, offers space for some 1,000 revelers in deep underground caverns. 197

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Munich Munich, capital of Bavaria and a metropolis of almost 1.3 million people, is the dominant commercial, travel, and political center of southern Germany. It attracts numerous conventions, meetings, fairs, and exhibits with a broad range of economic activities. Munich is also one of the world’s outstanding cultural and entertainment centers. Its excellent theaters, museums, and galleries present unending highquality cultural performances and exhibits, while the traditional Bavarian love of fun sustains a wide variety of festivals, atmospheric nightspots, and entertainment. It is a dynamic city with a multitude of recreational and intellectual possibilities. Munich is Germany’s third largest city, after Berlin and Hamburg. The city long ago outgrew its medieval walls, leaving a well-defined inner city, or downtown area. Munich is also Germany’s fastest-growing major city. Expansion continues at a fast pace with construction of new suburbs and U-bahn lines. Part of this growth is due to Bavaria’s drive to become the electronics, information sciences, aerospace, biotechnology, and media center of Germany. Munich is about 1,600 feet above sea level on the southern edge of a flat plain stretching from the foothills of the Alps, about 25 miles away, north to the Danube River. The Isar River flows through eastern Munich on its way to join the Danube. The climate is like that in the northern U.S. Winters are cold but not severe. Temperatures rarely fall below 0°F, and 2–3 feet of snow may blanket the ground in January and February. In spring and fall, pleasant, clear, warm weather is interspersed with prolonged stretches of rain and cloudiness. Temperate summers are short with a fair amount of rain. Individuals interested in further information about Munich and Bavaria should also look at the fol198

Cities of the World lowing websites: www.bayern.de www.munich.de www.suedbayern-online.de

Food German food stores offer a wide variety of food items of excellent quality, but the current dollar/mark ratio has made local shopping expensive. The sidewalk fruit and vegetable stands have beautiful, fresh produce, and the large openair market, the “Viktualienmarkt,” just behind the Marienplatz, offers almost any fresh food you can imagine, but at a high price. Munich has Italian and Oriental food stores.

Clothing Clothing needed is like that worn in the northeastern U.S. During July and August, heavier weight summer clothes are needed. Only be a few days are over 90°F, and even then, evenings cool off. Both men and women are comfortable working in suits or lightweight wool dresses for the women. Most entertaining in Munich is informal, and a business suit or dress is appropriate. Due to Munich’s frequent rainfall, bring a raincoat, preferably one with a removable liner, and suitable footwear. Boots are a must for the winter. Munich is a fashion center; beautiful and well-made clothing can be purchased here. U.S. retail outlets such as Eddie Bauer are gaining a foothold in the Munich area. However, clothing of similar quality to U.S. items is frequently more expensive in Germany. Sales are conducted only twice a year.

Supplies and Services Bring a sufficient supply of special toiletries, cosmetics, and over-thecounter or prescription drugs. Some favorite products, such as liquid aspirin/Tylenol for children, are unavailable locally.

prices are sometimes higher than in the U.S. All the normal necessities for comfortable living are readily available in Munich on the local economy. These include tailors, shoe and watch repair, laundry and dry cleaners, photo developing, small appliance repair, picture framing, and bicycle repair. Barbershops and beauty shops are in every neighborhood, and unless you frequent the most exclusive and expensive shops in the downtown area, prices will be comparable to those in the U.S. Finding English-language reading materials will require some effort, at least until you gain a familiarity with the city. The closest U.S. library and bookstores are at least an hour's drive from Munich. The International Herald Tribune is available locally at some newsstands. A locally published English-language magazine called Munich Found is very helpful in providing information and events in Munich and where to find certain things. Larger bookstores carry some English-language books and magazines, but the selections and supply are somewhat limited and are more expensive than in the U.S. Kiosks at the main train station carry a wide range of English-language newspapers and periodicals. There are a number of Internet providers in Munich, including CompuServe, AOL and Deutsche Telekom's T -Online.

Domestic Help Few families have domestic help, but such help is available on a daily basis. Domestic services are, however, hard to find and quite expensive. Consequently, when a good house cleaner is found, many families will arrange to share his or her services.

Religious Activities Electronic items, such as calculators, computers, fax machines, microwave ovens, TVs and VCRs, stereos, etc., are available, but

English-language services in downtown Munich are held by the following churches: Seventh-Day Adventist, Baptist, Christian Sci-

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Board. BIS and MIS work together in a co operative agreement to assure consistency of administration and curriculum for both schools. Children with physical, emotional, or learning disabilities cannot be accommodate at present by the international schools. German elementary schools with free tuition, in each section of the city, are open to American children. These schools may be extremely crowded, however, and the ratio of students to teachers is high. Children normally attend only half-day and have several; hours of homework. Older children sometimes enter German secondary schools, but language may be a barrier. Many German kindergartens accept American children, but they are also crowded and frequently have a long waiting list.

Special Educational Opportunities

Octoberfest in Munich, Germany

ence, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, Methodists and the M u n i ch I n t e r n a t i o n a l C h u r c h (interdenominational). The American Church of the Ascension, (Episcopal) holds regular Sunday and Sunday School services in Harlaching. The University chapel and St. Killian's Church also hold Sunday masses in English.

Education The Munich International School (MIS) is an accredited and wellrespected English-language school located in the southern outskirts of Munich. The Bavarian International School (BIS) is a new school located north of Munich, near the international airport.

© Franz-Marc Frei/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

The Munich International School is operating at its full capacity of almost 800 students in kindergarten through grade 12. The school has more applications for admission than places available, and this situation is expected to continue for some time. The Bavarian International School (BIS) is located in the northern part of Munich. BIS has the backing of the Munich business community, the international community, and the Bavarian Ministry of Education and Culture. BIS is currently offering grades kindergarten (age four) through grade 12 to 300 students. BIS has its own Board of Directors that meets regularly with the MIS

The University of Munich, the largest in Germany, offers numerous courses. To enter, you must have an excellent knowledge of the German language and have already completed two years at a U.S. college. A German course for foreigners is taught only to those who have completed two years at a U.S. college. The nearest U.S. affiliated academic facility is a four-year branch of the University of Maryland in Schwaebisch Gemuend, approximately 200 kilometers from Munich.

Sports Bavaria is a sports paradise. Worldrenowned German, Austrian, and Swiss ski resorts are within easy reach of Munich. Many resorts feature learn-to-ski weeks. Several Munich sport shops sponsor ski weeks at popular resorts, as well as special ski plans which provide transportation and instruction at a different slope each weekend. Most large sport shops rent ski equipment. The Munich International Ski Club organizes both day trips and longer trips throughout the ski season for its members. 199

Germany Munich has three large public ice skating rinks, many large outdoor swimming pools and several larger indoor swimming pools. Several golf courses are also available, but greens fees are very expensive and many are operated by private clubs requiring membership. Horseback riding enthusiasts use several riding clubs.

Augsburg, Salzburg, Regensburg, and Bayreuth, site of the annual Wagner Music Festival. The socalled Romantic Road connects the 16th century walled towns of Dinkelsbuehl, Noerdlingen, and Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Eastern Austria, the Czech Republic, Northern Italy, and Switzerland are within a day’s drive.

The 1972 Olympic facilities give Munich the opportunity to host frequent international sporting events, e.g., equestrian competitions, soccer matches, and cycling competitions. Racing is also a popular spectator sport.

Bavaria is also an excellent hunting and fishing area. Game includes deer, boar, chamois, capercaille, black cock, hare, fox, pheasant, partridge, and duck. Streams are well stocked with trout, and there is some river char and pike fishing. German hunting and fishing licenses are required.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Walking tours through Munich are popular. From various observation towers you can see the city and as far as the Alps. Many old churches are interesting to visit. Numerous art galleries and museums are free or charge only a small entrance fee. The Deutsche Museum is the world’s largest technical museum. Several large castles in and around Munich are well worth a visit. Many miles of pleasant and scenic trails are in the Alpine regions and in the Isar Valley on the outskirts of Munich. Also in Munich are several parks. The largest is the English Garden. Trips to Munich’s Botanical Garden and to its Hellabrunn Zoo, one of Europe’s largest, are also available. The nearness of the Alps and a host of interesting cities offer unlimited touring opportunities. Bavaria has more interesting museums, castles, and architectural monuments than you could visit in a 2-year tour. Perhaps the most impressive points of interest are the towering Alps of Upper Bavaria and the Austrian Tyrol, with world-famous spas and sports facilities. Skiing is particularly popular, but the beautiful scenery, picturesque villages, and colorful people offer year-round attractions. Numerous interesting cities are within a few hours’ drive; included are Nürnberg, Ulm, Innsbruck, 200

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Entertainment The large Bavarian State Opera House and about 20 theaters have nightly performances. Concert lovers will find the musical fare frequent, varied, and of outstanding quality. Munich’s world-renowned Oktoberfest, a combination carnival/beer festival, lasts about 2 weeks starting in mid-September. Fasching (carnival) begins in early January a n d e n d s o n S h r o v e T u e s d a y. Munich is famous for its excellent beer, and the city features many beer halls. Europe’s largest circus has its home in Munich and performs from Christmas until the end of March. Several theaters in downtown Munich feature recent English-language (usually American) films.

Social Activities There are long-standing GermanAmerican clubs for men and women in the Munich community which combine social activities with charity work. The Columbus Society, a German-American society for all ages, offers a varied program of lectures, social gatherings, and outings. Membership is also available in international clubs such as the International Federation of Business Women, Zonta Club, Soroptomists Club and Lyceum Club.

Many opportunities for social contact with Germans are available, but initiative is required. Various sports, hobby clubs, and other social groups usually welcome Germanspeaking Americans. The BavarianAmerican Center also sponsors exhibits, lectures, concerts, etc., during the year. These programs are well attended by Germans and offer a good opportunity to establish contacts with host-country nationals.

Stuttgart Stuttgart, the cultural and political capital of Baden-Wuerttemberg, has a population of slightly fewer than 600,000 people; adjoining suburbs contain over two million. The area is a vigorous and vibrant cultural and economic center, with high-tech industries such as automobiles, chemicals, electronics, and machine tools. The city, surrounded on three sides by low hills, retains an oldworld Swabian charm in its modern downtown core as well as in its more traditional outlying districts. More than 30,000 U.S. military and dependents are stationed in BadenWuerttemberg. Major headquarters are located in Stuttgart and Heidelberg. Land Baden-Wuerttemberg, which comprises the entire consular district, is an area of rolling hills and forests with a population of nearly 10 million and a yearly export trade of over $130 billion. In an area about the size of Switzerland (13,000 square miles) are such landmarks as the Black Forest, Swabian Alps, and the classical university towns of Heidelberg, Tuebingen, and Freiburg. The climate is moderate, with mild summers averaging 60°F–70°F and winter temperatures slightly above freezing. Humidity is high, and the average annual rainfall is 20–30 inches.

Food German markets are well stocked with all types of food items. Store hours are restricted, with most shops closing at 6 pm on weekdays

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Cities of the World and early afternoon on Saturday. O n t h e f ir s t S a t u r d ay o f e a c h month, stores remain open until 6 pm in winter and 4 pm in summer. Stores are also open Thursdays until 8:30 pm.

for those with German-language ability, and there is a film academy in Ludwigsburg. The French, Hungarian, and Italian Institutes offer l e c t u r e s, c o n c e r t s, f i l m s, a n d courses in French and Italian.

Transportation

Numerous facilities exist for handicapped dependents, but specialized schools, such as those for the hearing or vision impaired, require fluency in German.

Bus, streetcar, and subway services are well developed, but do not conveniently serve the Stuttgart area.

Clothing Standards for street and formal dress in Stuttgart are becoming more casual. The variable climate makes a flexible wardrobe most useful. Prices for clothes in German stores are high, but twice-yearly sales provide high-quality items at bargain prices. Shoes for women and children have been difficult to find in the past.

Religious Activities Regular English-language Protestant, Catholic, and Jewish religious services are held in Stuttgart under U.S. Army auspices. Monthly Anglican services are also available. German-language worship includes Lutheran Community, Catholic, Jewish, Church of Christ, Seventhday Adventist, General Communion, and Latter-day Saints.

Education Dependent Education: Pa r e n t s may send their children to German public schools free of charge. Waiting lists exist for day-care centers and private kindergartens (ages 3– 6).

Special Educational Opportunities Undergraduate work in various fields is offered by the University of Maryland at U.S. Army Education Centers. In addition, in fall 1992, the University of Maryland University College opened a 4-year program in Schwaebisch Gemuend. A 2-year graduate program for a master’s degree in education is offered by Boston College, and other university degree programs are available. Stuttgart has university, music academy, and art institute courses

Sports Hunting and fishing opportunities abound. Stuttgart and areas within 4 hours driving have an excellent range of sports—volksmarching, horseback riding, ice-skating, swimming, bowling, tennis, golf, and cross-country and downhill skiing.

Entertainment Entertainment and cultural events are abundant. Stuttgart’s internationally acclaimed ballet and its opera company have performances throughout most of the year (with the exception of 2 months in late summer). Frequent concerts are given by the State Symphony and other orchestras and by various local groups. Stuttgart is, among other things, a jazz center. Various international artists and circuses also perform in Stuttgart during the year.

There are a few good theaters that occasionally show films in English or the original language. There is a good downtown nightlife district, and one of the largest discos is located near the Trade Exhibition Center.

Social Activities Several German-American groups are located in Stuttgart. Among these are the German-American Men’s and Women’s Clubs and the International Circle.

Düsseldorf Düsseldorf is the capital of the German Land of North Rhine-Westphalia and a major political, commercial and cultural center. The city has a population of over 575,000 and the State, 17 million, about a quarter of Germany's total, making it one of Europe's most densely populated regions. The Ruhr is Europe's largest industrial region and Germany's principal producer of power for the entire nation. Today, the Ruhr's economy is more broadly based than ever before with less than five percent of the work force employed in the old coal and steel industries.

The annual fall harvest festival, a rival to the Munich Oktoberfest (which starts somewhat earlier and closes as Stuttgart’s Volksfest gets into full swing) always attracts large crowds. Many towns have similar colorful festivals during the year centered around harvest time or historical events.

Dusseldorf is a large, cosmopolitan city with a flourishing arts community including opera, ballet, art galleries and concerts. The city has a sophisticated retail sector, including the famous Konigsallee of exclusive shops and chi-chi restaurants. It is also the seat of the German fashion industry. Dusseldorf is the site of some of the largest commercial fairs in Germany: the fairgrounds or Messeglande are near the city center and the international airport. The Düsseldorf Airport is Germany's third largest and is served by American carriers. For current connections to Diisseldorf, Government travelers should check with the travel office of their agencies or with a travel agency.

Downtown cinemas show many first run (several months after the U.S. opening) American and international films, dubbed in German.

Located in the lower Rhine Valley, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg are all within a few hours' drive or train ride of Diis-

There are several museums, including artistic, ethnographic, and natur a l h i s t o r y c o l l e c t i o n s. T h e expanded Stuttgart Staatsgalarie has attained international prominence. The Wuerttemburg Art Association offers periodic painting, sculpture, and graphic arts exhibits.

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Germany seldorf. The city and its suburbs are built on the valley floor and are rimmed by low hills to the south and west. The Rhine is a major commercial thoroughfare and Dusseldorf is a major inland port. Much of the city was destroyed during the Second World War and has been rebuilt in a modern style, although Diisseldorf boasts a large and diverting Altstadt or old town full of charming restaurants and specialty shops. The city has incorporated suburbs on the opposite bank of the river, which include large parks and greenbelts, and there are a number of parks in the Innenstadt or downtown. Further information on Dusseldorf is available from the Internet at http:// www.duesseldorf.com or its German language companion, http://www.nrw.de. The climate in Dusseldorf is similar to the northern Atlantic seaboard of the U.S. with more rain throughout the year and much cloud cover. Significant snowfalls are rare. Summers are short and cool, particularly when compared to Washington, D.C.

Food, Clothing, Supplies and Services German groceries and markets offer a wide variety of good quality foods. Most communities have open-air or farmers' markets selling fresh produce, meat and dairy products. All types of clothing and footwear are available locally from a wide range of shops and department stores although prices may be higher than those encountered in the U.S. Clothing needed is similar dress for the northeastern United States. Standard business attire is worn in the office. Most social events do not require formal dress although there are a few occasions where it is needed or appropriate (e.g. opera, holiday balls, etc.). Domestic help is available although very expensive. It is often possible to use an American ATM card at German bank cash machines connected to the PLUS or CIRRUS networks. For convenience with bill paying and for receiving funds elec202

Cities of the World tronically, most Americans have local currency accounts with one or another of the German banks, which have numerous branches throughout the region.

Religious Activities English language services are held at Anglican (Episcopal), Baptist, Methodist and Roman Catholic churches in the Düsseldorf area.

Education The International School of Düsseldorf has over 600 students in grades kindergarten through thirteen (postgraduate or international baccalaureate). Almost half the students are American; the next largest nationality is German, and the balance are from Britain, The Netherlands, Japan and other nations. The language of instruction is English. Other options include the German public schools, the Japanese international school or the French Lycee. Adult education in English is limited although some courses are available through university extension programs offered at nearby American military installations. There is no accredited international school in Cologne.

Sports Participating sports opportunities include tennis, golf and ice-skating. There is an American professional football franchise in Dusseldorf-the Rheinfire-which has a regular spring season.

Bremen Bremen, dating from late in the 10th century, is one of the oldest and most interesting cities in Germany. It became a member of the Hanseatic League in 1358 and, from 1646, was one of Germany’s free imperial cities. The oldest and largest part of Brem e n —i n cl u d i n g w h a t wa s t h e walled city of the Middle Ages, now marked by the former moat—lies on the east bank of the Weser River. The area is an attractive park. A newer part of the city, BremenNeustadt, is on the west bank of the We s e r. I n a d d i t i o n , t h e r e a r e numerous suburban housing developments, including Neue Vahr, the largest of its type in Germany. The port and warehouse district lies to the north, along the banks of the Weser. Bremen’s position as a port has been long established, and it is today an important processing and distributing center for such products as coffee, wool, cotton, grain, and tobacco. Its industrial life has expanded greatly, and there are now several large shipyards, a growing electronics industry, a large and modern steel mill, and an important aircraft firm here. The population of the city is 674,000.

Social Activities

B r e m e n ’s c ul t ur a l at tr a c ti o n s include a number of museums, art galleries, theaters, an opera, libraries, fine old buildings of considerable architectural interest, and several parks. Among the latter is the large Bürgerpark, with exhibition grounds and congress halls.

There is a large and active American community in Dusseldorf and NRW Many events are held under the aegis of an American Women's Club that has over a hundred memb e r s. T h e c l u b h o s t s m o n t h l y lunches, a charity ball in December and a number of outings and tours. The American Chamber of Commerce is active in Dusseldorf as are a number of German-American friendship groups which host social and cultural events.

Bremen’s North Sea weather has a reputation worse than it deserves. On average, the temperature ranges from slightly above freezing in winter to the mid-60s in summer. In fall and winter, occasional prolonged periods of gray days are to be expected. For the rest of the year, however, the weather is tolerable to pleasant, although in the cooler range. Cloudless days are few, but many days are fine except for a short shower.

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Skyline of Cologne, Germany on the Rhine River

Bremerhaven, 40 miles from Bremen and with a population around 150,000, was an important transoceanic passenger port, but with the decline of that trade, it has become specialized in container shipment. It is also the largest single fishing port on the European continent.

available within easy distance of the city.

Bremen and the surrounding area provide adequate opportunities for sports and outdoor life. A country club, the Club zur Vahr, has two golf courses, tennis courts, and a swimming pool. Several tennis clubs, including one with three indoor courts, are available. Fees are reasonable. There is a large indoor swimming pool and a number of public outdoor pools in and near Bremen. However, the weather is seldom warm enough (by American standards) to make outdoor swimming enjoyable. Riding is available, using English saddles. Skiers may go to the Harz Mountains or farther south to the Alps. Excellent hunting for boar, deer, hare, and fowl is

Dresden

Bremen has many good movie houses showing the latest American, as well as German and foreign, films. The latter, however, normally have German soundtracks.

Dresden, once the home of one of the world’s most important collections of art, is the capital of Saxony. Situated on the Elbe River about 60 miles southeast of Leipzig, it is a manufacturing city of 518,000 residents, producing precision tools, optical instruments, and electrical equipment. The city, called “Florence on the E l b e,” wa s a l m o s t c o m p l e t e l y destroyed during the Second World War; 35,000 people perished in the bombing raids and the city was reduced to rubble. Dresden has since been rebuilt, with part of the inner city restored to its original

Archive Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

character. Most of its fabulous works of art were kept safe during the incessant bombings, but a great number of them were taken to Russia; some were returned in 1955, and fabulous art treasures are once again accessible to the public. The city became part of the Soviet occupation zone in May 1945. Dresden was originally a Slavic settlement (Drezdzane) in the 13th century. It has been occupied by Austrians and Prussians and, from the late 15th century until 1918, was the residence of the dukes of Saxony. Generations of writers, poets, and musicians were attracted to Dresden at some time in their lives, among them Goethe, Schiller, Heinrich von Kleist, Dostoyevski, Ibsen, Bach, Handel, and a host of others. The city is famous for its National Gallery, its museums, its university and scientific institutes, its music 203

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Cities of the World try’s most famous educational institution. Generations of scholars have added to its prestige throughout the centuries. The recreational facilities in and around Heidelberg are good. In mild weather, there is broad opportunity for fishing, cycling, and swimming. When winter arrives, ski enthusiasts can find good areas in the Black Forest, which is only two to three hours away by car; if the weather is not cold enough there, the German, Swiss, or Austrian Alps can be reached in five to eight hours. Nightclubs and restaurants are abundant for a city of Heidelberg’s size. Many German movie houses are available, and the U.S. Army shows American films nightly in five area theaters.

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View of Holstentor, Holsten Gate in Lubeck

conservatory and opera course, the Zwinger Palace and Museum, the city hall—and for Dresden porcelain which, in reality, is produced in nearby Meissen.

Heidelberg Heidelberg, in the Land of BadenWürttemberg, is famous as the oldest university town in Germany. It is both a cultural center and a tourist attraction. Heidelberg escaped the bombing of World War II and is thus a combination of old and new, considered by many as the ideal German city to visit. Its most distinct disadvantage is its humid and overcast climate. It is neither very cold in winter nor very hot in summer. 204

© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

Heidelberg’s 15th-century castle, which draws thousands of visitors each weekend throughout the year, overlooks the old town and the Neckar River valley. Its most popular attraction, within the castle walls, is the Heidelberg Tun (Great Vat), a wine cask nearly 200 years old, with a 49,000-gallon capacity. The vat is a part of the city’s folklore. Heidelberg itself has many interesting medieval buildings, and the cultural life generated by the university offers a wide variety of activities at reasonable prices. Concerts, theater, opera, and ballet are available at all times. The University of Heidelberg dates from 1386, and probably is the coun-

The ancient city of Cologne (Köln) is the capital of the Rhineland and one of Germany’s largest centers of population (937,500). Founded as a Roman town in 50 B.C., it became, through the ages, a medieval city of note, a center of arts and culture, and finally, a cosmopolitan city of tourism, industry, and commerce. It is situated majestically on the left bank of the Rhine (the right bank is mainly industrial), and the spires of its 11th- to 13th-century churches are dominated by that of the Dom (the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Mary), one of the most famous Gothic buildings in the world. Cologne was a religious and intellectual center during the Middle Ages. There is a wealth of activity to attract the visitor to Cologne. Nine municipal and numerous other private museums are open to the publ i c , a n d t h e R h i n e Pa r k a n d Tanzbrunnen (open air dancing area and fountain) remain popular tourist spots from year to year. Among the famous museums and galleries are the Kunsthalle (Municipal Art Gallery); the Roman-Germanic Museum, which recounts the history of the city; the Wallraf-Richartz Museum with its paintings by the old masters; and Ludwig

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Cities of the World Museum of contemporary and modern art.

vatory. In all, there are 21 colleges and technical schools in the area.

Cologne offers opera, theater, concerts, fine hotels and restaurants, excellent shops, a zoo with 8,000 animals, an aquarium, and the ever-popular Rhine cable cars. Industry in the city encompasses cars, chemicals (eau de cologne, for example), pharmaceuticals, beer, marine engines, wire cable, paint, tools, and machines. Cologne has the largest broadcasting and televis i o n f a c i l i t i e s i n t h e Fe d e r a l Republic.

In 1945, the Potsdam Conference was held here by the Allied powers to implement the Yalta agreements for the administration of Germany. The Celcilianhof, a country residence built in 1913-15 by the son of the last German kaiser, was the conference site. It is now a hotel and museum.

The Amerika Haus of Cologne, at Aposteln-Kloster 13-15 in the city center, has been in operation for over 30 years.

Potsdam Potsdam was the main residence of the Hohenzollerns under Friedrich the Great, the brilliant Prussian soldier and statesman whose philosophical and cultural leanings left a mark of refinement on the city. He built the Sans Souci Palace and developed the surrounding park lands during the mid-18th century; this and the enormous Neues Palais (new palace) are among the many showplaces in Potsdam today. Renovations are currently under way in these royal buildings. The royal family of Prussia, later the imperial family of Germany, lived in this city, which became known as the home of Prussian militarism. Potsdam is the capital of Brandenburg. It is situated on the Havel River, about 17 miles from Berlin, and is a manufacturing city for textiles, pharmaceuticals, and precis i o n i n s t r u m e n t s. I t s c u r r e n t population is about 135,000. Much of the German motion picture industry was developed in nearby Babelsberg. The studio is open yearround for tours and an adjacent theme park opened in 1991. Potsdam is the site of the Observatory of the University of Berlin and of Einstein Tower, an astrophysical obser-

T h e t h r e e g a t e s o f Po t s d a m — Neuen, Hunters’, and Brandenburg—constitute the restored remnants of the city wall. The main road, Klement Gottwald Allee, and more than 100 buildings along its l e n g t h , a l s o h av e b e e n r e c o n structed in recent years, and the city is a popular tour destination.

Lübeck Hanover is located on what was once the border between West and East Germany. It is the largest ferry port in Europe and Germany’s most important Baltic port. Second in size only to Cologne among the cities of medieval Germany, it was a Hanseatic town—it has a history dating back almost 900 years, and was known as the “Queen of Hansa.” The Hansa was a union of North German merchants which, in the 14th century, became a league of cities offering defense of trading interests and commercial privileges, and which served as a court of jurisdiction. It was also a political power waging successful wars for economic aims. From 1926 to 1937, it enjoyed autonomy as a free city of Germany, and then was incorporated into the Prussian province of Schleswig-Holstein. Among Lübeck’s famous sons and h on or a ry c i t i zen s a re T h oma s Mann, a Nobel Prize winner, and his brother Heinrich, also a writer; and Carl Jacob Burckhardt, Swiss historian who, as president of the International Red Cross during World War II, protected Lübeck by his negotiations to have the city declared a port of transshipment for Red Cross ships and a storage place for goods bound for Allied prisoners of war in German camps.

Lübeck has colleges of technical science, civil engineering, business administration, medicine, nursing, navigation, and music, and an institute of adult education. The city’s world-famous trademark is the Holsteintor (Holstein Gate), the best preserved town gate of the Middle Ages in Germany. The contours of the gate have become the distinguishing emblem of the town, and are shown on the 50 Deutsche Mark note of the German Bundesbank, on postage stamps, and as a trademark symbol by commercial firms. Among the products on which the Holsteintor emblem is used is Lübecker marzipan, the sweet almond pastry exported throughout the world. Lübeck is 17 minutes behind Central European time.

Hanover Hanover (in German, Hannover) is a city of 518,000 residents, located in the north central area of the country and is the regional capital of Lower Saxony. It is at the intersection of major highways and rail connections and is the site of the largest industrial fair in the world. It annually hosts exhibitions, conferences, and trade fairs, yet it maintains an atmosphere of culture and art with its many libraries, museums, and churches. Its beautiful Herrenhausen Gardens, formerly the summer home of Guelph princes, are now used for concerts and theater productions and for fireworks displays. One of the Herrenhausen gardens, the Grosser Garten, has been maintained in its original design for 250 years; another, the Berggarten, dating from 1666, has the largest collections of orchids and cacti in Europe. The museums of Hanover include the Lower Saxony Regional Museum (art and natural and early history), the Hannover Art Museum (modern art); the Kestner, with its ancient exhibits, including a famous Egyptian collection; and the Wilhelm Busch Museum. There are 205

Germany four major libraries here, including a veterinary college and a medical college library, and churches of major denominations. The First Church of Christ, Scientist, conducts a service in English on Sunday mornings at 11:30. Hanover has facilities for many sports. There are a stadium, an indoor arena, several swimming pools and saunas, tennis courts, an 18-hole golf course at Blauer See, horse racing and cycle tracks, and ice skating rinks. The city is the home of the Volkswagenwerk Foundation, which promotes scientific research, and the Federal Institute for Geo-sciences and Natural Resources. Currently, the Roderbruck Scientific Research Center is being developed. A special feature of Hanover’s many municipal services is an emergency medical consultation center at Ärztehaus, Berliner Allee 20. (The telephone number is 3-49-46.) A British-operated English-language elementary school, comparing favorably with American facilities, is available up to grade six. Several good German elementary, secondary, and technical schools are also within the city, and Hanover has an excellent university. The city hosts 15 consulates and two foreign/cultural information centers, of which Amerika Haus is one. Amerika Haus maintains a library and coordinates a program of lectures, seminars, and cultural events.

Kassel Kassel, the urban center of the North Hesse region, is known internationally for its municipal art collection, which includes 17 Rembrandts. It is a city of theater and festivals, and its exhibition of contemporary art, the Documenta, held every four years (the next is scheduled for 1993), is world renowned. The city is also the home 206

Cities of the World of the Grimm brothers of fairy-tale fame. Kassel is a center for industry, notably transportation equipment, and sponsors research and technology in that field. It is also the economic capital of Hesse and, as such, is host to numerous conferences every year at the Stadthalle (municipal center). One of Kassel’s major attractions is the beautiful Wilhelmshöhe Palace, built at the end of the 18th century as a residence for Jérôme Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon. Under Jérôme Bonaparte, Kassel was the capital of the Kingdom of Westphalia from 1807 to 1813. The hillside park at Wilhelmshöhe, the great fountain and waterfalls, and the colossal statue of Hercules attract thousands of tourists each year from spring until autumn. The château remains open all year, although with limited tour hours during the Christmas season. Other places of interest in Kassel include the Orangerie Palace in the city park; Löwenburg Castle at Wilhelmshöhe; Fredericianum, the oldest museum on the European continent (built by Simon Luis DuRy from 1769 to 1779); the Ottoneum/Museum of Natural Science, which was Germany’s first permanent theater building (1604); the Grimm Museum; the world’s only Museum of Wallpapers; the Regional Library, which houses the Hildebrandslied, the oldest surviving example of German poetry in written form (translated into 140 languages); and the Astrophysics Collection at the Hessian Regional Museum. Sports and spa facilities are a major attraction in Kassel. The Kurhessen-Therme is a center for brine bathing therapy and is widely used by people from outside the North Hesse region as well as by local residents. Kassel’s population is 200,000. Its university, founded in 1971, has a student body of 9,500.

Nuremberg Nuremberg (Nürnberg), one of the great and historic German cities, is located in north-central Bavaria. In the 12th century it became, with Augsburg, a major crossroad on the commercial routes between Italy and Northern Europe; in the Middle Ages it flourished culturally as the center of the German Renaissance. Most of Nuremberg was severely damaged late in World War II because of the heavy production of military equipment in the city, but it has been rebuilt and is an important industrial center for products such as electrical equipment, chemicals, textiles, and precision instruments. Nuremberg also has large distilleries and breweries. Students of 20th-century history will remember Nuremberg as the site of the International War Crimes Tribunal. Much restoration has been accomplished in Nuremberg since World War II. There are many places of architectural and historic interest, such as the Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain), which dates from the 14th century; the medieval c h u r c h e s o f S a i n t s S e b a l d u s, Lorenz, and Jacob; Kaiserberg Castle; and the Germanic Museum, which is considered one of Germany’s finest. The 15th-century Dürer house and the Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) also are major attractions. I n a c o u n t r y r e n o w ne d f o r i t s Christmas markets, perhaps none is more celebrated than Nuremberg’s Christkindlesmarkt, with more than 2.5 million annual visitors.

Duisburg Duisburg, one of Germany’s “big twelve” cities, is the largest inland water port in Europe. An ancient town which was once a member of the Hanseatic League, Duisburg is now a major industrial city of North Rhine-Westphalia, situated northwest of Düsseldorf at the confluence of the Rhine and Ruhr Rivers. Duisburg was a powerful city during the

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Courtesy of Molly Flint

Street in Rothenberg, Germany

Middle Ages, and much of its early history is reflected in the Niederrheinisches Museum collections. In addition to having a central library and 34 district branches, Duisburg is the site of Germany’s largest technical library. It is a center for congresses, exhibitions, and sports and cultural events, and boasts a beautiful theater on KönigHeinrich Platz. Many of its old churches were restored after World War II, among them Salvatorkirche, which was built in the 14th century on the site of earlier houses of worship. Dreigiebehaus, the oldest extant dwelling house (1536) and the ruins of the ancient city wall, which now has a Jewish memorial, draw a constant stream of visitors. Duisburg, with a population of 525,000, supports a good zoo, the Kaiserberg; the Wedan Sports Park; Sechs-Seen-Platte (Six Lakes), a large water sports and recreational

area; and various other recreational facilities. Many visitors are particularly interested in exploring the exhibits at the German Island Shipping Museum at Duisburg-Ruhrort. The educational facilities and health care institutions in Duisburg are excellent. There are 15 hospitals in the city.

Dortmund Dortmund, another old Hanseatic town, is situated in the heart of the Ruhr district, about 50 minutes from Düsseldorf- Lohausen Airport. With a population of 587,000 in the district, Dortmund is the commercial and cultural capital of Westphalia. It is famous as a brewing center and annually processes six million hectoliters (about 634 million quarts) of its well known “Dortmunder” beer. The city has held brewing rights for more than 500 years, and its Kröne beer hall is

older than the better known Hofbräuhaus in Munich. This huge European canal port is also the home of many other industries and commercial ventures. Steel, textiles, machine tools, nitrogen, and chocolate factories employ many thousands of people. Dortmund is also an engineering center for industrial complexes. It has a university and both teaching and research institutes. The libraries of Dortmund contain 545,000 volumes in 16 buildings and four mobile units. The volumes are housed in the Municipal Archives, the university library, the Institute for Press Research, and the unusual and interesting Institute for German and Foreign Working-Class Literature. The new Museum of Natural Science is only one of the many museums and permanent exhibits in 207

Germany Dortmund. Others include the Museum for History of the Arts and Civilization, the Ostwall Museum of Modern Art, the Coin Exhibition, the Westphalian Schools Museum, and the Natural History and Electricity Museums. The facilities for sports in Dortmund are extensive. Westfalenhall is the largest sports and all-purpose hall in Europe. There are pools, racing tracks, tennis courts, health and gymnastic centers, hockey rinks, and a number of other recreational areas. The Botanical Gardens, the German Rose Garden in Westphalia Park, and the zoo are popular spots for residents and visitors. Dortmund has modern shops, theaters, and galleries, and also supports a philharmonic orchestra. Many hospitals and clinics serve the community.

Aachen Aachen, for seven centuries the coronation city of the Holy Roman Empire, is situated on the western border of the country, at the foot of the Eifel and the Ardennes plateaus. The Belgian, Dutch, and German frontiers meet at its gates. The city is known throughout the western world by its French name, Aixla-Chapelle, and is a place of hist o r y, c u l t u r e, a n d f l o u r i s h i n g economy. Aachen is the city of Charlemagne (Charles the Great), and the cathedral with the famous Palatinate chapel is one of the most important cultural monuments in the world; Charlemagne’s marble throne is housed in the upper chamber of the gallery. This revered emperor was buried here in the year 814. In A a ch e n ’s R a t h au s ( t o w n h a l l ) where, for centuries, German kings were crowned, replicas of the imperial crown jewels are on display for the hundreds of thousands of tourists who annually flock to the city to see the renowned Christian relics. Ecclesiastical art treasures are a significant, but not exclusive, part of Aachen’s distinction. Its Rhein208

Cities of the World isch- Westfälische Technical College, with more than 34,000 students, is one of the largest in Western Europe and hosts many international technical congresses. Concerts and theater are an important part of city life, and elegant shopping in this ancient town of cloth makers and pin manufacturers draws visitors from many count r i e s. E u r o g r e s s A a c h e n , t h e congress center in the park, is a famous European meeting point, and the many historic inns, hotels, and charming restaurants give the city a cosmopolitan flavor. Aachen’s spa, Acquis Grani, was famous among Roman legionnaires for its healing powers, and today the spa is operated throughout the year with the most modern facilities. Other major attractions of this western German city include the Casino of Bad Aachen, the world riding championships in the Soers Arena, the annual fair in Kornelimünster and, of course, the art treasures in the Suermondt-Ludwig Museum and the Neue Gallerie, as well as those in the cathedral. The population of Aachen is about 250,000.

Bochum B o ch u m , a n i n d u s t r i al c i t y o f 432,000 in the Ruhr Valley, is 650 years old as a municipality, but its history covers more than a millennium. Throughout the centuries it has been beset by fire, pestilence, and foreign invasion and, in 1960, Bochum suffered a major coal crisis. It is now a center of diversified industry and, more important, the home of the Ruhr area’s first univers i t y, t h e R u h r- U n i v e r s i t y o f Bochum, on the hills above the river at Querenburg. This was the first institution of learning in the country to provide an office for the exchange of information between school and industry, and its medical training program with the area hospitals, known as the Bochum Model Scheme, is unique in Germany. In spite of its industrial nature, Bochum has many historical and

cultural attractions. The Old Parish Church of Stiepel, founded in 1008, still has the lower part of the tower and the remains of the walls near the choir, which were part of the first building. St. Gertrudis Deanery, with a 1000-year-old fort, is built on a foundation laid in the year 710. Two other historic houses of worship are St. Bartholomew Pilgrimage Chapel, known for its unique Renaissance door, and the Protestant Church of Gertrudisplatz, which was completed in 1763. Within the city are the German Mining Museum; the Bochum Art Gallery and Museum; Haud Kenmade, a moated castle from the Middle Ages; the Grumbt Collection of musical instruments (at the castle), with valuable manuscripts and a l o c a l h is t o r y e x h i b i t ; B o ch u m Observatory Planetarium; the Astronomical Observation Station; Institute for Space Research; RhineRuhr Railway Museum; Wattenscheid-Helfs Hof (history museum); German Puppet Institute; a large central library and a reference library for patent specifications; the Music School of Bochum; and a famous school for actors, the Westfälische Schauspielschule. Bochum also boasts a German Shakespeare Society, a symphony orchestra, an unusual number of gymnastics and sports clubs (284), a playhouse, a zoo, theaters, restaurants, and halls for meetings and conferences. Local time in Bochum is 31 minutes behind Central European Time.

Augsburg Augsburg, founded by Augustus in 15 B.C. as a Roman colony, lies on the Lech River in western Bavaria, about 30 miles from Munich. It is the principal city on the Romantic Road, the celebrated route through the historic German towns of the Middle Ages. Augsburg was a commercial and textile center for northern and southern Europe in medieval times and today, with a population of more

Germany

Cities of the World than 250,000, remains a major textile hub. It was the richest town on the continent during the 15th and 16th centuries; two of its wealthy families, the Fuggers and the Welsers, were famous and influential throughout the Western world. The merchant Fuggers built a social settlement, the Fuggerei, for the old and the poor which remains in modern times as a housing development still serving low-income families for the original annual rate. The paths winding through the Fuggerei show the care with which the settlement was planned and, even now, the ancient houses appear in good repair. It was here at Augsburg in 1955 that the Augsburger Religionsfriede (religious peace treaty) was signed, settling the conflict caused by the Reformation between Catholic and Lutheran princes of the Holy Roman Empire. The city is rich in architectural treasures of that time, and of the centuries which preceded it. The cathedral, built in 995, houses relics of its era; stained glass from the 11th century, and a beautiful altarpiece by the elder Hans Holbein (1465–1524) are testimony today of the art that was produced in those times. St. Ulrich’s Church, with its two towers honoring both the Catholic and Protestant religions, and the town hall (Rathaus) also are major attractions here, as is Maximilian Strasse, the Renaissance street which cuts through the city center. Near the Lech River are municipal botanical gardens and a zoo which keeps animals in a natural habitat.

OTHER CITIES Located in west-central Germany, BIELEFELD is the center of the Westphalian linen industry, which began in the 13th century. The city also manufactures bicycles, sewing machines, and tools. Bielefeld is situated 55 miles southwest of Hanover and has a population of about 300,000. Built in the 1200s and restored in the late 1800s, Sparrenberg Castle is now a museum.

M a n y o f t h e c i t y ’s h i s t o r i c a l churches and buildings were damaged during World War II. BRUNSWICK (in German, Braunschweig) is the capital of Lower Saxony and was formerly the capital of the duchy of Brunswick. The city, with an estimated population of 255,000, is situated in central Germ a n y, 3 4 m i l e s s o u t h e a s t o f Hanover. Industries include the manufacture of cameras, pianos, and automobiles. Brunswick was allegedly founded in 861, by Bruno, son of Ludolf, the Saxon duke. Historical buildings include St. Blasius Cathedral, built between 1173 and 1194, which contains the tomb of the duke of Saxony, Henry the Lion. A fortress built by him in 1175, the Dankwarderode, still stands. CHEMNITZ, called Karl-MarxStadt during the Communist era, is an industrial city on the Chemnitz River at the foot of the Erzgebirge mountain range, some 40 miles southeast of Leipzig. Made a free imperial city in the year 1125, it became an early center of the textile industry after it was given the monopoly of bleaching in the mid14th century. It also developed as a transportation hub, and as a center for chemical production and machinery. Chemnitz suffered heavy bomb damage in World War II. The city has approximately 302,000 residents. It is the site of the prestigious Technische Hochschule (polytechnic institute), founded in 1836; the library contains 588,000 volumes. A combined city/regional library is also located here. D ESSAU is 34 miles north of Leipzig and is an important railroad hub on the Berlin-Leipzig line. Industrially, the city is well developed, especially in the area of mechanical engineering. Dessau has a sugar refinery that processes the beets grown in the rich surrounding farmland. German settlers established Dessau some time during the 12th century, and it received a city charter in the early 13th century. The city has a population of approximately 105,000.

ERFURT, with a population of about 215,000, is situated approximately 60 miles from Halle, in the central-west region of the country. A major commercial city, Erfurt manufactures office equipment and typewriters. It is known for horticulture and seed growing; a horticulture show-ground and museum is located here. Erfurt flourished during the Middle Ages as the gathering place of merchants. In 1808, the city was the site of the famous meeting between Alexander I and Napoleon. The heads of the governments of East and West Germany held their first meeting here in 1970. Historical points of interest include the ancient Merchants’ Bridge that crosses the Gera River, built in 1325; the Old University, where Martin Luther studied; the Augustinian monastery, which he entered; and the 18th-century, baroque-style Governor’s Palace. The elegant homes of the late medieval and Renaissance periods display Erfurt’s former wealth. One of Germany’s oldest universities was f o u n d e d he re in t h e la t e 14 t h century. Located about 57 miles directly north of Bonn, ESSEN is a city of 620,000 residents. It extends southward through lovely suburbs into the timbered hills above the Ruhr River, where the abbey church of We r d e n , f o u n d e d a r o u n d 8 0 0 , stands. Since World War II, Essen has taken on a modern look and has traffic-free shopping streets. Relics of the ancient city include the Münster Church, built around 873. The city was established about 852 and housed a convent for noblewomen. Essen later developed as a result of coal mining and heavy industry in the area. The manufacture of plastics and consumer goods are among its industries today. The city of GELSENKIRCHEN is located in western Germany, about 40 miles northeast of Cologne. As a result of the northward spread of Ruhr coal mining in the late 1800s, Gelsenkirchen changed from a small village into a large industrial city. After 1958, when coal production decreased, the city had to diver209

Germany sify its industries. Today, machine building, the clothing industry, and glass-making have become economic mainstays. There is a central shopping area, a zoo, a theater, an artists’ area, and two racetracks here. Gelsenkirchen has an estimated population of 290,700. Situated 10 miles south of Dortmund, HAGEN is on the northern fringe of the picture-perfect Sauerland Hills. Like other cities in the region, Hagen grew with the expansion of Ruhr coal mining. It was chartered in 1746 and remained small until the late 1800s when industrialization began. Hagen suffered considerable damage during World War II but was quickly reestablished after 1945. Hagen’s current population is 209,500. The city of JENA is located less than 100 miles west of Dresden and about 25 miles east of Erfurt. It has an economy based on the glass and chemicals industries. Jena is known for its university, founded in 1554; and its optical works, founded by Carl Zeiss in 1846. Notable landmarks include the Zeiss planetari u m, t h e l a t e - G o th ic s t y l e S t . Michael’s Church, the old university, and a 14th-century town hall. The current population in Jena is about 106,600. KARLSRUHE (also spelled Carlsruhe) is situated in southwest Germany, just east of the Rhine River near the Black Forest. Formerly the capital of the grand duchy of Baden, the city currently is a retailing, transportation, and manufacturing center. The German Court of Justice (supreme court) and Constitutional Court are located here. Karlsruhe, founded in 1715, has a symmetrical fan of streets that extend south of its 16thcentury palace, which is now a museum. The streets to the north of the palace, through its parks and gardens, mirror the others. Germany’s first technical university, F r i d e r i c i a n a U n i v e r s i t y, w a s founded here in 1825. Karlsruhe’s population is about 268,700. 210

Cities of the World KIEL lies at the head of Kieler Förde, a deep inlet of the Baltic Sea, which forms the eastern terminus of the Kiel Canal. Kiel’s location, about 56 miles north of Hamburg, offers a magnificent view of the water and passing vessels. The city has facilities for processing foods, especially fish; other industries include brewing and manufacturing electrical and electronic equipment. The Old Market, with traffic-free shopping streets, lies in the shadow of the medieval Church of St. Nicholas. The city has an estimated population of 250,000. The city of KREFELD, whose population is 220,000, is situated less than 50 miles northwest of Bonn. The Rhine River lies eight miles west of the city. Chemicals, silk, steel products, and clothing are among Krefeld’s manufactured goods. Protestant refugees, including Mennonites, introduced the silk industry here in the 17th and 18th centuries. Situated 80 miles southwest of Berlin, MAGDEBURG is a transportation hub with a population of close to 290,500. The city’s economic life revolves around the nearby lignite (brown coal) field in Saxony and the large potash deposits around Stassfurt. Magdeburg’s port plays a major role in the engineering and shipbuilding industries. Founded in 8 0 5 b y C h a r l e m a g n e, t h e c it y became an archbishopric in 967. Magdeburg was a leader among the Hanseatic League cities but was practically destroyed in 1631 during the Thirty Years War. It regained its prominent status after becoming part of Prussia in 1814. During World War II, Magdeburg was a major industrial center. The Allies bombed the city repeatedly and finally took it on April 18–19, 1945. MAINZ lies on the west bank of the Rhine River in southwest Germany. Frankfurt am Main is located 20 miles to the east. A port city, Mainz is also an industrial hub, producing chemicals, optical glass, and food products. Mainz was once the capital of Rome’s Upper Germany Province. The Romans founded the city

as a camp on the Rhine in 13 B.C. Mainz became a political and religious power, and was a free city after 1118. It remained influential until Napoleon dissolved the empire in 1806. Historical sites, most of which were damaged during World War II, include an 18th-century grand-ducal palace and an 11thcentury cathedral. Johann Gutenberg, the printer-inventor, was born here in the late 1300s; the university named in his honor was founded in 1447. There is also a Gutenberg Museum in Mainz. The population here is about 185,000. The port city of MANNHEIM lies on the east bank of the Rhine River, about 60 miles northwest of Stuttgart. Along with its twin city, Ludwigshafen, Mannheim is the country’s second major inland port. The port area has grain elevators and facilities for petroleum storage and refining. There are excellent connections to other cities by water and rail. The city manufactures automobiles, electrical equipment, and farm machinery. Chartered in 1606, Mannheim was attacked and destroyed twice, first during the Thirty Years War, and then by the French. In the late 16th century Mannheim was the musical headquarters of Europe. The earliest plays of Friedrich von Schiller were performed here in the city’s theater (built between 1776 and 1779). The city has a population of nearly 300,000. Located in northwest Germany, about 80 miles northeast of Cologne, MÜNSTER is a distribution center for the area’s grain and lumber. Dating from the year 805, Münster was originally named Mimigernaford; its current name was given in 1068. During the 13th and 14th centuries Münster was a dominant member in the Hanseatic League. The Peace of Westphalia, ending the Thirty Years War, was signed in Münster’s town hall in 1648. Notable landmarks include a large 13th-century cathedral, a 14th-century town hall, and the Gothic Church of St. Lambert. Münster, whose population exceeds 273,000, has a museum of fine arts.

Germany

Cities of the World ROSTOCK lies on the Warnow River, just over 40 miles north of Schwerin. The current population here is about 254,000. Rostock is the country’s largest port on the Baltic Sea. The city’s industries include the manufacture of chemicals and diesel engines. Rostock was chartered in 1218, and in the 14th century it joined some 80 other German cities in forming the Hanseatic League to promote commerce. The University of Rostock was founded in 1419. Situated on Lake Schwerin, about 60 miles east of Hamburg, SCHWERIN is a manufacturing city with a population of about 125,000. It manufactures cigarettes, food products, machinery, and ceramics. Settled by the Wends around 1018, Schwerin received its charter in 1161. It was the seat of a bishopric from 1167 to 1648. A 13th-century Gothic cathedral may be found here. WIESBADEN, the capital of Land Hesse, is located in central Germany. It lies at an altitude of 500 feet at the southern base of the Taunus mountain range, 20 miles west of Frankfurt am Main. The population of Wiesbaden is 268,900; it is noted for its mineral springs and mild climate. Industries include the manufacture of pottery, boats, clocks, and paints. The city is a trading post for lumber, fruit, and vegetables. Rhine wines are produced from the nearby vineyards. The Celts founded Wiesbaden in the third century B.C.; it was a popular Roman spa. The city boasts a casino, a 19th-century palace, the Nassau State Library, and the Hessian State Theater. A U.S. military base and hospital is located in Wiesbaden. WUPPERTAL is situated in the western region of the country, 40 miles north of Bonn. Industrially, the city relies on its textile production, which includes velvet, silk, carpets, linen, and artificial fibers. It is also a major center for the production of rubber and pharmaceuticals. The vicinity around Wuppertal was settled between the 11th and 12th centuries. This city of 380,000

residents was heavily damaged during World War II. Positioned 40 miles south of Leipzig, ZWICKAU is a city with many historical buildings. Probably established in 1118, it was a free imperial city from 1290 until 1323. At that time, it was overtaken by the margraves of Meissen. Notable buildings include St. Catherine’s Church, begun in 1212 and rebuilt in late Gothic style; the city hall of the 15th century; the late Gothic Clothworkers’ Hall, built in 1522-36; the Church of St. Mary, dedicated in 1118 and altered in the late Gothic, style in 1505-37, which contains a painting of Christ by Lucas Cranach the Elder; and the Oberstein Castle, built in 1565-85 and now a penitentiary. Zwickau today has an estimated population of 120,500, and an economy based on the nearby rich coal fields. The manufacturing of textiles, dyes, ceramics, and small automobiles also supports its residents. There is a technological institute located here. Zwickau was the birthplace of Robert Schumann, the composer.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Unified Germany comprises 16 states (Lander in the plural; singular: Land), of which three (Berlin, Bremen and Hamburg) are citystates. Berlin, with a population approaching four million, is surrounded by the State of Brandenburg, with the Brandenburg Land capital at Potsdam, a city that adjoins Berlin on the southwest. Bavaria is Germany's largest land. Germany's population exceeds 82 million and, with a total land area of only 137,800 square miles (slightly smaller than the State of Montana), the nation is one of the most densely populated and urbanized in Europe.

Germany has five distinct geographical areas and widely varying landscapes. From north to south these are: the flat north German lowlands; the hills and the low mountains of the Mittelgebirge; the west and south German plateaus and mountains (including the Black Forest, the Schwarzwald); the south German Alpine foothills and lake country; and the Bavarian Alps with the Zugspitze (Germany's highest mountain, 9,717 ft.) near Garmisch. The most important rivers are the Rhine, the Weser, the Elbe, the Main, the Oder, and the Danube. The first three flow northward, emptying into the North Sea. The Main is a tributary of the Rhine. The Danube, starting as a spring in the beautiful, historic town of Donaueschingen in southwest Germany, flows east 1,725 miles to meet the Black Sea in Romania. Lake Constance (Bodensee), Germany's largest lake, lies at the border separating Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. Germany is in the Temperate Zone and enjoys frequent weather changes, sometimes daily. The country has four distinct seasons with rainfall frequent in most months, especially in the autumn. Winter temperatures and snowfall tend to be more extreme in the southern part of the country where the average elevation is higher, but even low-lying Berlin has snowfalls and winter temperatures which occasionally dip below 10°F. Summer temperatures are usually cooler than Washington, D.C., although short summer hot spells are common.

Population With a population totaling more than 80 million persons, Germany has one-quarter of the population of the European Union. It is the largest nation in Europe after Russia even though, in size, it is smaller than either France or Spain. Today, over 85 million people speak German as their mother tongue. 211

Germany Many Americans call Germany home. There are thousands of U.S. military men and women including retirees, Government employees, representatives of U.S. businesses, academics and their family members throughout Germany. Relationships between Germans and Americans are generally very positive. Many older Germans remember the assistance provided by the U.S. Marshall Plan after World War II and the commitment and aid provided by the Berlin Airlift in 1948. America's steadfast support of German democracy, especially during the crises of the Cold War, adds to the generally positive reputation of the U.S. in Germany. Many Germans travel or have traveled to the U.S. for business or pleasure and many learn English from the earliest years in school. English is a common second language, especially in the western parts of Germany, although some German-language ability is necessary everywhere for a rewarding living and cultural experience.

History The chronology of German events since the end of the Second World War has been dramatic and extraordinarily eventful. After Germany's defeat, the country was occupied by the four Allied powers-the U.S., the U.K., France and the Soviet Union. In 1949, the zones under control of the three western nations united to become the Federal Republic of Germany (FRG). In the same year, the eastern part of the country, under control of German Communist authorities and the Soviet Union, was declared a separate German State and became the GDR. On October 3, 1990, following the revolutionary changes of late 1989, the Federal Republic and the GDR joined to form a reunified Republic of Germany that extended the constitution and laws of the former West Germany to five new eastern States. The city of Berlin, surrounded by East Germany, had a special status in the immediate postwar period 212

Cities of the World and was under the military occupation of the four allies under a By 1948, Soviet violation of FourPower Agreements from the immediate post-war days increasingly had isolated their zone from those parts of Berlin occupied by the Western powers and the division of the city began to take shape. The Berlin airlift of food and supplies in 194849 was an Allied response to Soviet efforts to use their control of overland access to Berlin to force the Western powers from the city. The Berlin Wall, the infamous dividing line between East and West Berlin, went up almost overnight in August 1961 in an effort to stem the tide of East Germans departing for the West. The Wall remained in place as a physical and psychological barrier until November 1989 when, under the pressure of weeks of peaceful protests throughout the GDR and changes in Soviet policy, it suddenly collapsed along with the government that had built it. One year later, Germany was unified. In 1991, the German Parliament, the Bundestag, made the historic decision to move the German Government and Parliament back to Berlin from Bonn where it had been located in a “provisional capital” since 1949.

Public Institutions Democracy in the Federal Republic of Germany is founded on the Grundgesetz (Basic Law), which came into force in May 1949. It provides for a parliamentary democracy and is protected by the Federal Constitutional Court. The constitution contains strong guarantees of individual rights for all. Matters requiring centralized direction, such as foreign policy, foreign trade, defense, and monetary policy, are reserved to the Federal Government. Parliament has two Chambers. The first Chamber of Parliament, the so-called “lower house,” is the Bundestag, which normally comprises 656 members popularly elected every four years. The “upper house,” the Bundesrat, is composed of 69 deputies appointed by the State or Land governments.

This Chamber can approve or veto certain important legislation passed by the Bundestag. Like the U.S., modern Germany is a highly decentralized nation. Each of the 16 States, or Lander, in the German republic has its own state government, with a Parliament and separate executive branch led by the head of government, the Minister-President. Education, social services, public order, and police are under Lander control. The ability of the Federal Government to affect Lander decisions in matters reserved to the states is quite limited, a feature of the German system of government deliberately created as a result of the experiences of the National Socialist period. The Federal President, whose powers are mostly limited to ceremonial functions as head of state, is elected every five years by the Federal Convention, consisting of the members of the Bundestag and an equal number of members elected by the state legislatures. The Federal Chancellor, Germany's Prime Minister, is elected by a majority vote of the Bundestag for a four-year term corresponding to the life of the Bundes t a g. A s c h i e f e x e c u t i v e , t h e Chancellor has a strong position in the German system of government. The Bundestag can remove the Federal Chancellor by electing a successor with an absolute majority of votes. The largest national political parties are the Social Democratic Party (SPD), leaders of the governing coalition following Parliamentary elections in 1998, and the Christian Democratic Union (CDU) which operates in tandem with the Christian Social Union (CSU) of Bavaria. The CDU governed Germany during the periods 1949-69 and 198298. Germany's “Greens;” a political party officially known as Alliance 90/The Greens, with roots in the environmental and left-wing movements of the seventies, entered government as junior coalition partner in 1998. The Free Democratic Party (FDP) is a small center-right party

Germany

Cities of the World that has participated as a partner in most German governments since 1949, with the exception of the periods 1957-61, 196669 and after the 1998 elections. The Party of Democratic Socialism (PDS) is the successor political organization to the Communist Party which ruled in the former German Democratic Republic. It enjoys limited regional strength, particularly in some districts of Berlin and the states of the former GDR.

Arts, Science, and Education Germany has a active and highly innovative theater culture, in both the large cities and smaller communities throughout the country. Theaters and acting companies are usually subsidized although more and more theatres are privatizing, especially in Berlin. Despite this financial dependence, theaters have great artistic freedom guaranteed by the German Basic Law. For lovers of the visual arts, almost every city maintains art exhibitions and private galleries. Germany has more than 3,000 museums, of which 500 are concentrated in North Rhine-Westphalia, the most heavily populated of the Lander. There are outstanding art museums in Berlin, Dresden, Hamburg, Hannover, Cologne, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Munich, Kassel, Stuttgart, and Wiesbaden. The most extensive art collections in the care of a local authority are found in the city of Cologne, including the Wallraf Richartz Museum and the Ludwig Museum of Modern Art. The latter institution contains one of the largest collections of American modern art outside the U.S. Cologne also enjoys a global reputation as a sales center for contemporary art. Every five years, the city of Kassel, in the state of Hesse, hosts the largest festival of modern art in the world. Meanwhile, Berlin is also experiencing a revival in the arts and is seeking to establish the Berlin Biennial as a major international show and marketplace.

Foreign artists are frequently involved in German cultural events. Almost every German opera house has American singers under contract. Several German orchestras have an American conductor, and many have American musicians. Every year major American orchestras and dance companies perform under commercial auspices in Germany, touring several cities. American artists are represented in all major museums, exhibits, and galleries around the country. Germanlanguage productions of American plays and musicals are frequently part of the repertoire of German theater companies. As in the U.S., where education is a State and local function, education in Germany is largely the responsibility of the Lander. The Lander coordinate their educational policies through the “Conference of Ministers of Education and Cultural Affairs” (Kulturministerkonferenz). The Federal Government can legislate on vocational training and regulations governing the basic principles of higher education and research, and, as in the U.S., it provides important subsidies in these areas. As an industrial nation lacking raw materials, Germany sees high standards of education and high levels of productivity as essential to the q u a l i t y o f l i f e o f i t s c i t i z e n s. Although there are many regional variations in educational patterns and changes under way, certain basic practices remain as the German educational model. Compulsory schooling begins at age six and lasts nine years (in some Lander, 10). As in most European countries, Germany relies on early testing and the track system to select students for vocational training leading to skilled employment or further academic study culminating in the university. Most children are tested at age 10. Options include placement in a Hauptschule or Realschulevocational high schools or in a Gymnasium, an academic high school. In some Lander there are comprehensive schools called Gesamtschulen. After completion of their compul-

sory schooling, students may qualify for higher-level specialized vocational training at a Fachöberschule, after which admission to a polytechnic university is possible. The Gymnasium leads to the award of the highly-prized “Abitur,” a certificate received after successfully passing stringent tests at the conclusion of the 13th year. (Most eastern Lander give the Abitur after only 12 years.) The Abitur degree is required for university entrance. The comprehensive school embraces all these tracks. There are nearly two million students at institutions of higher education in Germany. There are over 200 advanced institutions of several kinds (universities and technical universities, polytechnic universities, comprehensive universities, teacher training colleges, and fine art colleges). Numerous adult education centers (Volkshochschulen) also offer an attractive spectrum of subjects for personal enrichment. Study courses at the 70 universities are divided into basi c studies (Grundstudium) and specialized studies (Hauptstudium). Basic studies culminate in an intermediate examination or Vordiplom (usually after four or five semesters) and specialized studies in the Diplom or State Examination (after eight or more semesters, depending on the field). American students with two years of full-time college study may be admitted to German universities if they have the required language proficiency. Students with combined SAT scores above 1,300 may sometimes be admitted with less U.S. college credit. Admission requirements for doctoral and other advanced programs vary. There is limited access to the medical fields. Education in Germany, including university education, is free of charge for all students, including foreigners. 213

Germany

Commerce and Industry The Federal Republic of Germany is one of the world's leading economic powers. In terms of overall economic performance, Germany is Europe's major industrial nation, the world's third largest industrial country (after the U.S. and Japan) and the world's second largest exporting country. Its per capita income is higher than the U.S. and second only to Japan. Principal German industries include automobiles and other road vehicles, chemicals, machinery, electrical goods, iron, steel, and coal. Germany imports food, raw materials, textiles, oil, natural gas, and various manufactured goods. International trade is crucial to the German economy and the nation enjoys a steadily increasing trade surplus of almost $60 billion. Principal exports are motor vehicles, machinery, chemical products and electrical engineering products. In percentage terms, over 70 percent of Germany's trade is with European Union nations. The U.S. is Germany's third largest export partner, behind France and the U.K. At the same time, the U.S. is the fourth largest importer to Germany. The German labor market has had to cope with profound changes during the past decade and the rate of joblessness, especially in the eastern parts of the country, was a major issue in the election of 1998 that returned the Social Democrats to power. Since then, strategies and policies to stimulate the economy and create jobs have been at the forefront of government deliberations and public discussion. The problem remains most acute in the eastern parts of the country, the former GDR, where an unemployment rate more than 50 percent higher than in western Germany persists in a region with only onequarter of Germany's population. About one-third of German workers belong to large, powerful trade unions that bargain collectively for wages and working conditions and commonly participate in industrial 214

Cities of the World policy and managerial decisions. Pressures from continuing high unemployment, high labor costs, an aging population and costly social security/pension programs are forcing Germany to consider reform or restructuring of its labor market and social policies.

Transportation Automobiles Germany requires a valid German driver's license. No one under age 18 is issued a German driver's license. You can get German and international licenses during registration if you present a valid driver's license either from the U.S. or another country with an appropriate translation into German. A U.S. license must be valid on application. Without a valid license, you have to attend a local driving school to obtain a German license. Tuition rates are high, around $730-$900. A passport-sized photograph is needed for both the German and the international drivers licenses. A driver's license issued in the U.S. or any other country brought into Germany is not accepted in Germany unless you can prove that the applicant was a resident in the country where the driver's license was issued for six months or longer.

Local Germany's urban transportation system is generally excellent and consists of electric trains, streetcars, and buses. Subways or Ubahns are found in several cities including Berlin, Dusseldorf, Hamb u r g, Fr a n k f u r t , Co l o g n e a n d Munich. All cities have superb taxi service. Taxi rates are relatively expensive and tipping is customary. Public transportation in Germany is easily accessible, clean, dependable, and safe, and is a common method of getting around cities. As in other countries of continental Europe, Germans drive on the righthand side of the road. City speed limits, unless otherwise posted, are usually 50 kilometers or 31 miles per hour; on State highways, 100

kilometers or 62 miles per hour. Sections of the German autobahns have no general speed limits for passenger cars, but certain stretches of roadway often will have posted limits that are strictly enforced by radar monitoring. Most emergency vehicles are painted off-white or red and white, with police vehicles painted green and white; emergency ambulances are lettered and numbered in orange or red. Fire vehicles are red. The Berlin transport system consists of buses, trams, and U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. There is excellent service to most parts of the city. A single adult fare (Einzelfahrschein) costs more than $2 in Berlin although a variety of special fares exists for regular users of public transportation. The large metropolitan areas of Diisseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, Hamburg and Munich are also served by excellent S-Bahn and UBahn systems along with buses and trams. Leipzig has no subway system although public transportation is excellent and is being modernized.

Regional Germany's largest transport network is the federal railway system (Deutsche Balm AG) which was privatized and decentralized in 1994. More than 25,000 miles of track connect cities and towns throughout Germany and the system is constantly being upgraded and modernized. In addition to domestic high-speed intercity express service, German cities are connected to cities throughout Europe by frequent international express trains. Rail service between German cities, large and small, is excellent, and most European capitals, including London, can be easily reached within 24 hours. Rail fares in Germany are lower and rail usage much more common than in the U.S. Due to its geographical position in the heart of Europe, Germany is a hub of European air traffic. Almost all major international airlines

Germany

Cities of the World operate services to or within the Federal Republic. Frankfurt has the busiest international airport in Europe. Dusseldorf, Hamburg and Munich airports also accommodate international flights including direct flights to and from the United States. The Bonn/Cologne airport is a “feeder” for Frankfurt as well as an intra-Europe airport hub. Only the United States has a more extensive network of highways than Germany. Because of its well-developed road system, Germany is an ideal country for automobile travel. Most people find a car desirablesometimes for transportation to and from work-as well as for shopping and recreation. Express highways connect most major German cities, and secondary roads are usually excellent, so all parts of Germany are easily accessible by car. International road signs are used everywhere in Germany. Drivers need to be familiar with these signs as well as with local driving rules, which are sometimes very different from U.S. driving customs. Parking regulations are rigorously enforced throughout the country and several different systems of paying parking charges may be encountered.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Post and telecommunication services in Germany were reformed by a landmark 1995 law in response to European Union requirements and the enormous technical and marketplace changes occurring globally. Further changes resulting from deregulation are continuing. Telephone service in residences is now available through Deutsche Telekom AG, Europe's largest telecommunications company and the third largest in the world. The company traditionally enjoyed a monopoly on local telephone service in Germany. Telephone service is charged on a “per unit” basis of actual usage and tends to be slightly more expensive than U.S. phone service, especially for high-volume users although deregulation and competition are

forcing rates lower. Rental and call charges are paid monthly. Itemized bills are now available. Direct longdistance dialing is available in all German cities to most places of the world. Dialing the U.S. from Germany costs much more than direct dialing from the U.S. to Germany. Collect calls from Germany to the U.S. are charged at U.S. rates. AT&T, Sprint, and MCI credit cards and callback services are currently used by many employees for U.S. calls at considerable savings although international long-distance rates are falling as more and more competition enters the communications marketplace. Germany has an extensive cellular telephone network covering nearly the entire country and personal telephones are commonplace. Deutsche Telekom offers ISDN service to businesses and residences in most locations and the use of ISDN channels is growing fast. Installation fees and monthly service rates vary but are reasonable. There are scores of Internet service providers (ISPs) in Germany, both local and national, including AOL and CompuServe. Deutsche Telekom offers Internet connections through its T -Online service. UUNET, an affiliate of MCI World Communications, also provides Internet access throughout Germany. Costs to connect to the Internet are somewhat higher than in the U.S. because, in addition to paying the service provider, users must pay for their local calls on a “per unit” basis. U.S. telephones, including most cordless telephones, answering machines, and fax machines will operate in Germany although devices with internal clocks may run slow because of the difference in cycles in the electrical current.

Radio and TV Germany has both government and commercial broadcasting. Radio and television in Germany are dominated by two major organizations, ARD, a national public broadcasting

network combining eleven regional affiliates, each of which has a radio and a TV arm; and ZDF, Germany's national television broadcaster. The regional affiliates generate most of the programming for the main ARD channel, known in Germany as the “first channel.” ZDF is the “second channel” and the regional affiliates, such as WDR or NDR, are the local “third channel.” ARD affiliates and ZDF are neither purely commercial nor government-controlled broadcasters. They are independent corporations operating under public laws and controlled by boards whose members are selected by political parties, churches, labor unions, and other public groups. Television programming in Germany is supported both by viewer/ listener fees and by commercials. All programs are produced or dubbed in German, including foreign programs and films. The public broadcasters usually favor a program mix more oriented towards news and documentaries. The most important commercial television broadcasters include: RTL, SAT 1, RTL Plus, Pro 7, n-tv (the first all-news network in Germany), DSF (German Sports TV), RTL-2, and VOX (an “infotainment” channel). While the public companies broadcast on public frequencies, commercial companies rely mostly on the cable network and their programming emphasizes entertainment. Programs are interrupted by commercials. Households serviced by German cable networks can receive approximately 36 programs from Germany and neighboring countries. Satellite service is also available in Germany. English language television broadcasting such as BBC World, BBC Prime, CNN International, CNBC and AFTN (Armed Forces Television Network) is available on many cable and satellite services. Radio broadcasting in Germany is dominated by ARD affiliates. Virtually all of them broadcast on two or three frequencies. One channel typically concentrates on pop music and casually presented features and 215

Germany n e w s. O t h e r b r o a d c a s t s a r e reserved for classical music, political magazines, educational programs, and radio plays. The number of commercial radio stations in Germany is growing constantly and there are nearly 200 private radio stations. It is well-known that transmission standards differ for European and American television (PAL vs. American NTSC). European television sets will not operate in the U.S. and American television sets will not operate in Germany. Similarly, NTSC video products cannot be shown on PAL-only television sets. Multistandard sets are required to receive programs where American community cable television systems are operated. CB use by U.S. citizens in Germany is authorized, but it is more restricted than in the U.S. Licensing is obtainable from German civil t elecommunicat ions authorities. If turntables for LPs and/or reel-to-reel tape recorders are brought to Germany, remember that the electrical current here is 230v, 50 cycles. Although transformers will reduce voltage to 110v, the 50-cycle adjustment requires replacing the 60-cycle pulley for operation at the correct speed.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Germany's Basic Law guarantees freedom of opinion and freedom of the press. There is no censorship. As a consequence of the strong position of a free press, Germany is as media rich as the U.S. In fact, in terms of the availability of news and information from other countries, Germany, like many other European countries, is far more news saturated than the U.S. There are, however, significant differences between the media in the two countries. Germany remains principally a newsp a p e r- r e a d i n g n a t i o n b u t t h e broadcast media are possibly even more influential in their ability to influence public opinion. Regional newspapers, many with national circulation, play a larger role than in the U.S. and general newspaper readership far exceeds 216

Cities of the World that of the U.S. A circulation of 200,000 is an average circulation for a German regional paper with even higher figures for several regional papers that circulate nationally. Large circulation newspapers in Germany include the tabloid Bild (Hamburg), Suddeutsche Zeitung (Munich), Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (Frankfurt) Rheinische Post (Diisseldorf), Leipziger Volkszeitung (Leipzig) and the influential Hamburg-based weekly Die Zeit. In Berlin, Berliner Zeitung is the daily with the largest circulation, followed by Berliner Morgenpost and Der Tagesspiegel. In addition to daily and weekly newspapers, about 9,000 periodicals of all sorts are published in Germany. Der Spiegel, a weekly news magazine with a circulation of over one million, is one of the largest. A typical well-educated German household might subscribe to a local paper, a national paper and a weekly news magazine. Many major papers and magazines are openly identified with particular political parties or political viewpoints. Nearly 75 German newspapers are now on-line with Internet sites. One particularly good English-language site is: http://www.Berliner-Morgenpost de. Updated every two weeks, the site has translations of the newspaper's feature stories about Berlin, lots of the latest information about the city and links to many other useful Internet sites with important information about Germany. Another valuable site is: http://www.dwelle.de, the home of Deutsche Welle, Germany's international broadcaster, which features the news of Germany and the world in English and links to other Germany sites. Visitors may also subscribe to Deutsche Welle's daily English news summary via e-mail. The German Press Agency (Deutsche Presse Agentur-DPA) is the leading German news agency, with offices worldwide. The leading U.S. news agency, Associated Press, also services German newspapers. The English-language International Herald Tribune, USA Today and The Wall Street Journal are avail-

able in most locations. European editions of Time and Newsweek are widely sold along with daily editions of British newspapers. Bookstores in larger cities sell a limited number of English-language books, usually in British editions.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Excellent medical care is available in Germany. The approach to medical care, however, is different. A large number of physicians speak English. Patients who have chronic medical problems requiring scheduled and unscheduled medical follow-up should plan to use local German physicians. Most local German hospitals provide 24-hour emergency care. German medical practice is often different from what is customary in the U.S. and not all hospitals can provide full English-language assistance. Germany also has excellent medical and educational facilities for the mentally and physically handicapped, but all services are usually in German. English speaking facilities are scarce. Germany is not necessarily appropriate for all special needs children. Bills for German medical and dental care must be paid by the patient and then submitted to a health insurer. Dental and orthodontic care is available throughout Germany although standards may sometimes vary from U.S. standards. Charges for medical and dental care are standardized by the German Government and tend to be equivalent or somewhat higher than in the U.S. Well-known German medical institutions include the OskarHeleneHeim Orthopedic Hospital of the Free University of Berlin, the Waldfriede Community Hospital and the Benjamin Franklin Klinikum, one of Berlin's finest large university

Germany

Cities of the World hospitals with a full service emergency room. Dusseldorf: Excellent medical care is available from German providers in the Dusseldorf area. Hamburg: The city and region have many competent and specialized German doctors and hospitals, many of which are internationally recognized and which provide excellent emergency and routine care. Generally, German doctors in Hamburg speak at least some English. The University Hospital of Hamburg-Eppendorf has a number of specialized clinics that treat illnesses and medical conditions of all kinds. For detailed information regarding this hospital, see their Internet site at www uke.uni-hamburg.de. Leipzig: Local medical establishments capable of handling routine medical problems and emergencies. A number of local medical and dental facilities have reached West Germ a n s t a n d a r d s, a n d L e i p z i g recently opened a state-of-the-art cardiac care facility, which is one of the leading such institutions in Germany. In addition, the Bundeswehr Krankenhaus offers high-quality treatment and the Diakonissen Hospital offers most medical services. American tourists and business officials have also received satisfactory emergency services from Leipzig University's clinics and quality dental care from local practitioners. Munich: Excellent medical care is available from German physicians and German hospitals in the Munich area.

Community Health Community sanitation and public cleanliness are similar to or exceed those incomparable American cities. Drinking water, dairy products, fresh vegetables, meats and other food products are under strict German Government control and meet the highest sanitation and health standards. In recent years, information about the health risks of smoking have reduced the prevalence of

cigarette smoking in Germany. Smoking is not allowed, for example, on domestic airline flights and there are “no smoking” train compartments and “no smoking” rooms in many hotels. Still, few restaurants have smoke-free areas and smoking in public buildings and shops is common.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties Frankfurt International Airport, continental Europe's largest airport, is the principal gateway city in Germany for international air connections. In many cases, other European cities may serve as convenient gateways to Germany and conform with travel rules. U.S. airlines serve many German cities directly from U.S. locations. A passport is required. A visa is not required for tourist/business stays up to 90 days within the Schengen Group of countries, which includes Germany. Further information on entry, visa and passport requirements may be obtained from the German Embassy at 4645 Reservoir Road N.W., Washington, D.C. 20007, telephone (202) 298-4000, or the German Consulates General in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, or San Francisco; and on the Internet at http://www.germany-info.org/ newcontent/index_consular.html. Inquiries from outside the United States may be made to the nearest German embassy or consulate Germany's customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Germany of certain items such as firearms, military artifacts (particularly those pertaining to the Second World War), antiques, medications/pharmaceuticals and business equipment. Under German law it is also illegal to bring into or take out of Germany literature, music CDs, or other paraphernalia that glorifies fascism, the Nazi

past or the former “Third Reich.” It is advisable to contact the German Embassy in Washington or one of the German consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements. Americans living in Germany are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy or any of the U.S. consulates and obtain updated information on travel and security within Germany. A new initiative of the American Embassy in Berlin allows all Americans in Germany to obtain automatic security updates and Public Announcements by e-mail. To subscribe to this service, simply send a blank e-mail to [email protected] and put the word “SUBSCRIBE” on the subject line. Individuals planning extended stays in Germany are encouraged to register in person at their local consular section. U.S. Embassy in Berlin is located at: Neustaedtische Kirchstrasse 4-5; Tel: (49)(30) 238-5174 or 8305-0; the Consular Section is located at Clayallee 170; Tel: (49)(30) 832-9233; Fax: (49)(30) 8305-1215. U.S. Consulates General are located at: Duesseldorf: Willi-Becker-Allee 10, Te l . : ( 4 9 ) ( 2 1 1 ) 7 8 8 - 8 9 2 7 ; Fa x : (49)(211)788-8938. Frankfurt: Siesmayerstrasse 21, Tel: (49)(69) 75350; Fax: (49)(69) 7535-2304. Hamburg: Alsterufer 27/28, Tel: (49)(40) 4117-1351; Fax: (49)(40) 4430-04. Leipzig: Wilhelm-Seyfferth-Strasse 4, Tel: (49)(341) 213-8418; Fax: (49)(341) 21384-17 (emergency services only). Munich: Koeniginstrasse 5, Tel: (49)(89) 2888-0; Fax: (49)(89) 2809998. There is also a U.S. consular agency in Bremen located at: 217

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B r e m e n Wo r l d T r a d e C e n t e r, Birkenstrasse 15, Tel: (49)(421) 3015860; Fax: (49)(421)301-5861.

Birds of the parrot family and exotic animals are admitted only by special permission.

When calling another city from within Germany, dial a zero before the city code (for example, when calling Berlin from Munich, the city code for Berlin is 030).

While walking your dog outside your own yard, it must be kept on a leash at all times. Canine varieties specified in German law as “dangerous” must wear a muzzle in addition to being leashed. Only in designated areas may dogs roam freely without running afoul of the law. German law also requires the removal by the dog owner of waste, when deposited on public property. Pet owners should plan to purchase inexpensive liability insurance available locally for pets, especially larger dogs. German pet owners typically carry such insurance. Excellent veterinary and dog grooming services are available everywhere in Germany. There is no heartworm (filaria) in Germany.

Pets Germany is a pet-loving country and dogs especially are familiar companions in all German cities. Dogs and cats imported from abroad must be accompanied by a valid health certificate and a certificate of vaccination against rabies. These certificates should be issued by an official veterinarian in the country of origin. The health certificate must state that the pet is in good health, free from contagious diseases, and that no cases of rabies had occurred within an area of 20 kilometers of where the pet had previously resided. Rabies certificates must certify that the animal has been vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days prior to entry but not longer than one year before. Travelers should understand that animals may be refused entry if fewer than 30 days have passed since the rabies inoculation was administered. This health certificate itself should be less than ten days old when the pet arrives. The German Embassy in Washington provides a formal form for use when importing pets although experience has shown that officials at the entry port, particularly at Frankfurt International Airport, rarely demand the form when handling pets arriving from the U.S. Animals without health certification may be admitted if they are found to be in good health after inspection by an official veterinarian at the airport and payment of the applicable veterinarian's fee. In the event that an animal thus imported becomes sick or dies within three months after importation, the owner must report the incident to the official veterinarian at the animal's place of domicile. 218

Animals sent by airfreight should arrive between 9:00 a.m. Monday and 5:00 p.m. Friday, since Customs offices are closed weekends and holidays. Travelers should carry the airway bill number to facilitate animal identification. If you intend to walk a dog freely in Berlin, it is imperative to obtain the appropriate dog tax decal. House pets or dogs kept in one's own yard are not subject to this tax. documentation.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the Austrian monetary unit is the Euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 euros. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The exchange rate approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US. Although credit cards, are used throughout Germany, especially in hotels and restaurants, their use in retail shops is not as ubiquitous as in the U.S. Most payments in Germany are made in cash, personal checks in DM or via direct bank transfer. Personal checks drawn on U.S. banks are not accepted. Cash machines are available for use

almost everywhere and most-but not all-provide cash withdrawals on credit cards. American ATM cards affiliated with major U.S. bankcard systems (such as the PLUS' or CIRRUS' networks) can be used at many bank cash machines. In Germany, commodities are sold in liters for liquid volume and kilograms for dry weight. A gallon is 3.8 liters (one liter is 0.264 gallons) and a kilogram is 2.2 pounds. Measure of length is by meter, which equals 39.37 inches. Distances are measured in kilometers (eight kilometers are five miles) and speeds in kilometers per hour (80 kph equals 50 mph). Land measure is by hectares. One hectare is 2.47 acres.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday* May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday May/June . . . . . . . Corpus Christi Day* Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Oct. 3. . . . . . . . . . . Day of German Unity Oct. 31. . . . . . . . . . Reformation Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints’ Day Nov. 21 . . . . . . . . . Repentance Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Second Christmas Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country.

Germany

Cities of the World Ash, Timothy Garton. The File: A Personal History. New York: Random House, 1997. In Europe's Name: Germany and the Divided Continent. New York: Random House, 1993. Blackbourn, David. The Long Nineteenth Century: A History of Germany, 1780-1918. New York: Oxford University Press, 1998. Friedrich, Otto. Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s. New York: Harper Perennial, 1995.

Ladd, Brian. The Ghosts of Berlin: Confronting German History in the Urban Landscape. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1997. Maier, Charles S. Dissolution: The Crisis of Communism and the End of East Germany. Princeton and New York: Princeton University Press, 1997. Richie, Alexandra. Faust's Metropolis: A History of Berlin. New York: Carroll & Graf, 1998.

Germany: A Phaido n Cultural Guide. Prentice-Hall: 1985.

Shandley, Robert R. (ed.). Unwilling Germans? The Goldhagen Debate. Minneapolis: The University of Minnesota Press, 1998.

Goldhagen, Daniel Jonah. Hitler's Willing Executioners: Ordinary Germans and the Holocaust. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1996.

Shirer, William L. The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich: A History of Nazi Germany. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1960.

Kitchen, Martin. Cambridge Illustrated History: Germany. London: Cambridge University Press, 1996.

Taylor, Ronald. Berlin and its Culture: A Historical Portrait. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1997.

Wise, Michael Z. Capital Dilemma: Germany's Search for a New Architecture of Democracy. New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 1998. In addition to the U.S. Embassy's site (http://wwwusembassy.de) and many other sites mentioned in this publication, two good starting points for Germany information are http://www.germany-tourism.de and http://www.germany-info.org. The Internet site http:// www.bundesregierung. de contains excellent information in English and German on all aspects of Germany today as well as links to curr e n t n e w s f r o m t h e Fe d e r a l Government's Press and Information Office. In addition, a variety of topical and helpful Frequently Asked Questions on Germany can be found at http://.www.physics. purdue.edu/ -vogelges/faq.

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Athens, Greece

GREECE The Hellenic Republic

Major Cities: Athens, Thessaloníki, Rhodes, Patras, Kavala Other Cities: Canea, Corfu, Corinth, Iráklion, Larissa, Piraeus, Sparta, Tripolis, Vólos

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2001 for Greece. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Greek legend tells that Titans battling Olympian gods once hurled giant rocks at Zeus in an attempt to knock him out of the sky. Their missiles piled up to become the mountains which blanket Greece, and stray boulders splashed into the sea to form the islands that serve as stepping stones across the Aegean. In the past 30 years, Greece has changed from an agrarian to a semi industrial economy, but on the few fertile plains and many rocky slopes of this tip of the Balkan Peninsula, farmers herd sheep or tend olive groves, wheat fields, and vineyards,

as did their ancestors for a thousand years. Each province preserves its traditional costume, brightening the festivals held in the small, s q u a r e d o m i n a t e d v i l l a g e s. Throughout the storied isles of Greece-some 400 lie in the Aegean and Ionian Seas and account for a fifth of the nation's area-the white of house and church glints against the blue of sky, and men go down to the sea for sponges and fish. This seafaring tradition gives Greece the world's largest merchant tonnagemore than half of it registered under foreign flags for tax reasons. During the Bronze Age (3000-1200 BC) a maritime civilization flourished. By 800 BC Greece was undergoing a cultural and military revival, with the evolution of citystates, the most powerful of which were Athens and Sparta. This period was followed by an era of great prosperity known as the classical or Golden Age. During this time, a tradition of democracy was ushered in. The classical age came to an end with the Peloponnesian Wars (431-404 AD) in which the militaristic Spartans defeated the Athenians. Greece became a part of the Byzantine Empire in 395 AD. By the 12th century, the Crusades were in full

flight and Byzantine power was much reduced by invasions. Fo r 2 5 c e n t u r i e s a c r o s s r o a d s between Europe and Asia to both merchant and conqueror, Greece did not achieve political unity until rebellion brought independence after 400 years of Turkish rule in 1830. The Acropolis in Athens stands as an enduring monument to the “glory that was Greece,” fountainhead of Western culture and democracy. Below its marble ruins and glass-faced offices serve shipping, tourism, and flourishing light industries in a developing nation that still must import much of its food, machinery, and raw materials. The arts have been integral to Greek life since ancient times. In summer, Greek dramas are staged in the ancient theaters where they were originally performed. Greek literature's ancient heritage spans poetry, drama, philosophical and historical treatises, and travelogues. Western civilization's mania for logic and “ideas” can be traced directly back to ancient Greek philosophers such as Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle, and the West's sciences, arts, and politics are also deeply indebted to classical Greece.

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MAJOR CITIES Athens Athens (Athínai, in Greek), the capital of Greece, is situated 300 feet above sea level in east-central Greece on the Attica Plain, bordered by the Aegean Sea and Mounts Parnis, Penteli, and Hymettus. The city proper is built around the historic Acropolis and picturesque Lycabettus Hill. The Attica Plain is the ancient division which outlines the territory of Athens; it is agriculturally rich, but surrounded by semiarid hills and mountains. Athens is the commercial, cultural, and political center of Greece. Like many larger U. S. cities, Athen s is a “mother city,” the central point of a group of suburban townships with separate entities. Some northern suburbs are Psychico, Filothei, Kifissia, and Ekali. Old phaleron, Kalamaki, Glyfada, and Voula border the sea. The architecture of Athens varies from the antiquity of the Acropolis to the contemporary structures of the modern suburbs. The city is burgeoning with construction, especially of apartment and office buildings in the downtown area. Like Boston, it is a “mother city,” the central point of a group of suburban townships with separate entities. The northern suburbs are Psychico (Psyhiko), Philothei, Kifissia, and Ekali. Old Phaliron, Kalamaki, Hellenikon, Glyfada, and Vouliagmeni are on the seafront. Ancient Athens began as a city-state in the seventh century B.C. It reached the height of its splendor two centuries later, during the time of its great statesman, Pericles, and of its philosophers and dramatists, Socrates, Anaxagoras, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes. During these years, the magnificent white marble Parthenon was built on the Acropolis. The Spartans captured Athens in 404 B.C., during the Peloponnesian War and, although the city eventu222

Temple of Olympian Zeus/Arch in Athens

ally regained its freedom, it never again basked in the power and glory of its earlier days. Athens eventually came under Macedonian and Roman rule, then was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in 1456, and remained under Turkish control until 1833. It became the capital of modern Greece in 1835. During World War II, the city was occupied for more than three years by the Germans.

Food On the local market, fresh meat, both local and imported, is cut in the European manner and is expensive; good pork and lamb are available. Local beef is not aged and lacks the tenderness of American beef. Fresh chickens, eggs, and cheese are good buys. Many Greeks shop daily, so the local shopping centers are an important part of every neighborhood. Each has its own grocer, butcher, florist, greengrocer, pharmacy, and a fish merchant. Fresh produce, fruits, plants, eggs, and sometimes fish can also be purchased at the colorful weekly neighborhood farmers' markets. Fish is available but expensive. The huge central market daily sells fresh meats, game, chicken, seafood, spices, and a surprising variety of other commodities. A recent phe-

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

nomenon is the neighborhood Greek equivalent to the U.S. supermarket. Many of these establishments cater to the demands of clientele with international tastes, so they stock delicacies from around the world in addition to national pro ducts. Although some specialty items are expensive, there are also bargains. In any case, there is almost nothing that cannot be found in the Greek food market. Greek bakeries offer a tasty variety of home-style bread from wheat to French and Arabic all made without preservatives. Sweet shops specialize in a variety of Greek pastries and European-style cakes and chocolates. Health food stores are a new fad and located in many areas. Greek wines are plentiful, varied and inexpensive, and some of the finer ones compete well internationally.

Clothing Wa r d r o b e s f o r G r e e c e s h o u l d include hot and cold weather clothing similar to that worn in Washington, D.C., although outer wear for snowy conditions is not necessary, except in northern Greece and in mountainous areas. Warm winter clothes and sweaters are necessary because apartments, houses, and some offices are not adequately heated. Summer clothing should be

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Cities of the World lightweight and include many washable items. Shoes wear out quickly because of dust, dirt, and uneven pavements. Fashionable shoes in average sizes and widths are available and of good quality but are expensive. People with large, narrow, or wide feet or who are more comfortable in shoes with a special American brand should bring a good supply with them or order through mailorder companies. Men: Medium-to-heavyweight wool suits are most comfortable during late fall and winter. For outdoors, supplement these with a sweater or a medium weight coat. A lightweight raincoat is also useful. One or two dark conservative suits are a must. Dark suits are worn year round for official functions, receptions, and informal dinners. In spring, summer, and early fall, lightweight suits of Orlon, Dacron, and tropical-worsted gabardine are ideal. English and good Greek woolens are available locally but are expensive. Since the weather is pleasant most of the year, bring informal sportswear (sport shirts, slacks, or jeans, loafers, etc.) for picnics, beaches, and at home. Order shirts, ties, underwear, pajamas, socks, etc., from the U.S. or purchase locally at higher prices. Women: Lightweight cotton, cotton-linen blends, silk, or other natural fibers in simple styles are preferred during the summer season. Slacks are popular casual attire. Shorts are not popular unless on an island/ beach. Dark cottons, shantungs, silks, and polyesters are worn during spring and fall. Suits and jacket dresses give versatility to clothes, particularly for changes of temperature and occasion. Wool dresses, suits, and sweaters are worn from October through April. Leather skirts, jackets, and coats are popular. Any cloth coat is appropriate in winter, as are fur coats. One or two raincoats are desirable. European women dress fashionably, particularly for social occasions. Black is always in style for dressy occasions. Simple dresses are suit-

able for cocktail parties. Short as well as long dresses are worn for formal occasions. Stoles or evening sweaters are recommended for evening garden parties in summer. Ready-to-wear clothes of all kinds are a standard item in Greece. Prices and quality v a r y. S a l e s h e l d t w i c e y e a r l y (August and February) offer good buys. Local shops carry good purses, b e l t s, b u t t o n s, a n d j e w e l r y. Imported or handmade items are expensive. Greek markets offer a variety of yard goods. Imported silks, woolens, and cottons are available, but the best quality fabrics are expensive. Some local silks are attractive; Greek cottons, though less expensive, are seldom colorfast or preshrunk and never drip dry. Notions of European origin are plentiful. Dressmaking services range from local seamstresses to expensive couturiers. Local seamstresses are expensive. Local silver jewelry is attractive and reasonable. Yarns for knitting are available. Fur jackets, stoles, and coat, are available locally. Prices vary according to styles, kind of fur, and whether the skins are pieced or whole. Stone martens are native to Greece. Sports clothes are practical. Purchase sports and walking shoes in t h e U. S. G r e e k a n d A m e r i c a n women wear blouses or sweaters and skirts year round. These are available locally. Bring several swimsuits, since saltwater and bright sun wear them out rapidly. Attractive European-style swimsuits are available locally but are expensive. Children: Ready-made clothing for children is available locally, but good quality apparel is expensive. Most families obtain children's clothing through catalog companies. As in the U.S., boys wear jeans or slacks to school, and girls wear dresses or skirts or jeans or slacks with blouses or sweaters. Sweaters are necessary, especially during colder months when building heat is inadequate.

Supplies and Services Athens has several main shopping areas in the city and the suburbs, where you can find a good variety of locally made and imported goods. Stores of one specialty cluster together-furniture stores in one section and light fixtures in another. Large supermarkets and economy merchandise chains throughout the city carry a wide variety of cleaning and cosmetic products, as well as everyday household items. Each neighborhood has its own drycleaner, shoe repair shop, hairdresser, and men's hair stylist. A contracting dry-cleaning service is available through the employee's as s o c ia ti o n . H a ir s t yl is t s an d beauty shops are expensive compared to U.S. prices for the same service. Friends, neighbors, and associates are helpful on where to find auto mechanics, plumbers, electricians, or carpenters.

Domestic Help Many house dwellers employ a parttime gardener/handyman. These workers usually speak English, French, or German, in addition to Greek. By government decree and custom, in addition to regular compensation, servants receive bonuses at Christmas (a month's salary); Easter (half a month's salary); and vacation time (8-15 days' wages). Live-in servants also receive food, clothing, and medical care. The servant's medical care is provided under IKA (Greek social security). A legislative decree provides for obligatory insurance enrollment with IKA for all full-time, live-in domestic employees as follows: gardeners, butlers, and cooks pay 35%--45% of monthly wage (13.25% by employees and 22.20% by employer). General house workers, chambermaids, and laundresses are paid whether living in or out. Some take their meals in the household and other receive food allowance. Mandatory insurance payments provide old-age pension and medical care. Those who employ day workers are not obliged to pay this insurance fee; the workers are responsible for their own coverage. 223

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Cities of the World Religious Activities

In addition to the Greek Orthodox church, several other faiths are represented in Athens. St. Andrew's Protestant and Interdenominational Church has services in central Athens, Kifissia, and Voula/ Glyfada. Centrally located are: St. Paul's Anglican, Church of the Latt e r- d ay S a i n t s, G r a c e B a p t i s t Church, Trinity Baptist Church, Crossroads International Christian Center, Glyfada Christian Center, and First Church of Christ, Scientist. Catholic Mass in English can be heard at St. Paul's in Kifissia. The central Cathedral has services in Greek, with readings and announcements occasionally in English. Beth Shalom Synagogue is located in Athens, and a mosque occupies the top floor of the Caravel Hotel. Sunday school and CCD classes are available through several churches.

Education The American Community Schools (ACS) (tel. 639-3200) is a private, nonprofit school incorporated in Delaware. The governing body is an eight-member Board of Education elected by the Parents Association. ACS provides an American educational program and offers the international baccalaureate program to interested students. ACS has two limited special education resource centers for learning disabilities. Admission to these centers is limited and is based on evaluation of records. ACS has a current enrollment of 800. Pupils with American citizenship comprise 50% of the student body; English-speaking citizens of more than 50 other countries make up the remainder. About 150 students graduate from high school each year, and, of these, 80% continue their education at colleges and universities. The school complex is located in Halandri, 7 miles from downtown Athens. It consists of three schools: an elementary school (junior kindergarten through grade 5), a middle school (grades 6-8), and a high school (grades 9-12), as well as administrative offices. Bus serv i c e i s av a i l a b l e. C u r r i c u l u m includes advanced placement and 224

college preparatory courses, as well as the international baccalaureate program, business education, industrial and fine arts, home economics, physical education, extensive foreign language program, and workstudy program. All faculty members are certified and more than 75% hold master's degrees. The internatio nal address is: 129, Aghias Paraskevis Street, 152 34 Ano Halandri, Athens, Greece. Tasis Hellenic International School (tel. 808-1426) is a branch of the American School in Switzerland. It was founded in 1979 in a merger between TASIS Greece and the Hellenic International School, which was established in 1971. It prides itself on having a caring, studentcentered community. TASIS Hellenic enrolls 323 students at the Middle and Upper School on the Kifissia campus. TASIS Hellenic offers American college preparatory, Cambridge University I.G.C.S.E. and A-level preparation, American advanced placement courses in all disciplines, and English as a second language. Classes are small; the average class has 15 students. All faculty are certified, and 92% of the graduating seniors continue their education at colleges and universities in the U.S. and the U.K. The academic year extends from September to mid-June. The school year is divided into 2 semesters, with a 3week Christmas vacation and a 2week spring break. Grades and teacher comments are sent to parents four times yearly. Bus transportation is provided from all major residential areas in and around Athens. Tasis also has an elementary school (pre-K to grade 5) with a curriculum that is designed to meet the special needs of the young child. The elementary school is located 12 minutes from the middle and high school campus. The mailing address is: TASIS Hellenic International School, P.O. Box 25 Artemidos and Xenias Street, 145 62 Kifissia, Greece. St. Catherine's British School (tel. 282-9750/282-9751) is coeducational

and caters for children aged 3 to 13 years. Some families are permanent residents of Athens while others are more internationally mobile. The curriculum is closely modeled on the British National Curriculum but has certain adaptations and additions that take into account the school's unique circumstances. All children follow programs of study in English, mathematics, science, art and design, geography, history, music, physical education, religious/moral education, and technology. Every effort is made to keep class size small. The school occupies a site in Lykovrissi, bordering the residential suburb of Kifissia, and is within easy access of other northern suburbs of Athens. All children are required to wear a school uniform, which is designed so that most items are relatively easy to obtain. The school's facilities in terms of playground space, campus environment, and outdoor swimming pool are excellent. Mailing address for overseas m a i l i s : P O. B o x 5 2 8 4 3 , N e a Erithrea, Greece 146 10. Local address is: c/o British Embassy Plutarchou l, Athens 106 75. Campion School (tel. 813-3883) is an all-age, coeducational international school run on British lines, admitting pupils of any race or nationality. Senior pupils are prepared for the “A,” “O,” and AP level exams and the SAT. Campion is registered in Massachusetts and has been a member of the Governing Bodies Association in the U.K. since 1970. Campion operates two elementary schools, one in the northern suburb of Halandri and the other in the coastal suburb of Glyfada. The senior school is situated in Ekali, 1.5 kilometers north of Athens. Bus service is available. Onethird of the student body is British; the remainder represent 50 other countries. Computer and technical studies are available, and a particularly wide range of foreign languages is taught. The mailing address is: Dimitros & Antheon Street 145 65, Ekali, Greece. St. Lawrence College (tel. Glyfada: 894-3251) is an independent coeducational school registered in

Greece

Cities of the World England. A British public/prep school prepares students for “A” and “O” level exams, as well as SAT's. Current enrollment is 400 pupils from 18 countries between the ages of 3 and 18 years. The school is located in the Hellenikon area of Athens. Bus transportation is available. Mailing address is: 3 Delta Street, 166 77 Glyfada. Foreign Language Schools Japanese School (tel. 682-4278). Instruction is in Japanese. Address is: Embassy of Japan, 64 Vassilissis Sophias Avenue 115 28, Athens, Greece. Dorpfeld Gymnasium (tel. 6820921). Private German School in Paradissos, Amaroussion. Italian School (tel. 228-3258). Elementary, high school, and lycee. Instruction is in Italian. Address is: 18 Mitsaki Street 11141, Athens, Greece.

Special Educational Opportunities Special teachers and speech therapists are available for private hire through the Center for Psychic Health, 58 Notara Street, 10683 Athens, phone 881-2944 and 8232833. (A private, independent organization called CARE/HELLAS also has a listing of specialists. The American College of Greece or Deree College (tel. 639-3250) serves nearly 2,000 students at its two campuses. The college is an independent, nonprofit institution accredited by the New England Association for Schools and Colleges and under American direction. Primarily a coeducational liberal arts college in the English and American tradition, the main campus offers a 3-4 year program leading to a bachelor's degree in business administration, economics, psychology, sociology, English, history, and dance. The downtown center offers business and economics courses in the afternoon and evening and offers a 2-year associate degree in secretarial studies. Most Derree students are Greek; 20 other nationalities are also represented. Instruction is in English. Pierce College

© Ted Spiegel/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

The Parthenon above a modernized Athens, Greece

(tel. 639-3250) is an affiliated secondary school on the main campus. The mailing address is: 6 Gravias Street, 153 42 Aghia Paraskevi, Greece FAX: 600-9811. The University of LaVeme (tel. 8100111) is fully accredited with academic requirements identical to the main school in California. Evening classes are held at TASIS School in Kifissia. BA and BS degrees can be pursued in business administration and economics, business management, behavioral science, sociology, history, political science, psychology, social science, and mathematics. Cour ses leading t o a mas ter's degree are available in business administration, management, and history. The mailing address is:

Xenias & Artemidos Sts. 145 62 Kifissia, Greece FAX: 620-5929. College Year in Athens is a program intended as a year abroad to enrich education at the sophomore, junior, and senior levels. Instruction is given in English by visiting U.S. and Greek professors. Courses are Greek civilization, archaeology, culture, art, literature, and politics. A limited number of qualified adults may be accepted as part-time special students for credit. The mailing address is: 59 Denocratous Street, 106 76 Athens, Greece. Tel.: 726-1622/726-0749, FAX: 7261497 American School of Classical Studies is primarily a research institute for a limited number of 225

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Cities of the World

students sent from the U.S. by their graduate schools. The mailing address is: 54 Souidias Street, 106 76 Athens, Greece, Tel.: 723-6313, FAX: 725-0584.

Sports Opportunities for sports participation abound in Greece. Many tennis clubs exist, from elite to affordable. A superb and rigorous test of golf is available at the 18-hole Glyfada Golf Course. Reasonable annual fees of around $1,000, plus slightly more tourist-oriented daily greens fees, are available. Only four other courses exist in Greece; in Rhodes, Porto Carras (Halkidiki) serving Thessaloniki and Northern Greece, Rhodes, Corfu, and a small 9-hole course at the VOA Station in Kavala. American-style 10-pin bowling lanes are available in a few locations. The annual Athens marathon group and weekly runs of the international Hash House Harriers welcome joggers wishing company. Roller skating and ice-skating rinks are accessible, and health clubs have become popular. Yachtsmen moor their craft in numerous marinas along the Saronic Gulf, and organized racing is available. The less affluent can charter various size yachts with or without a skipper to cruise the islands. Sailing classes are also available. Windsurfers love the balmy breeze of the Aegean Sea, and water skiing, although not as popular, is available. Scuba divers and sailors must understand Greek regulations and have knowledge of local waters. For those who enjoy a sandy beach and cool swim, many beaches are available in close proximity to Athens. Some government-operated beaches offer lockers, sports equipment, parking, umbrellas, chairs, and restaurants in various locations. Eight or more riding clubs are located in Athens, some with indoor and outdoor menages; lessons given in English can be arranged. All riding is English style. Horse racing takes place three afternoons weekly at the Faliron Race course. When 226

the waters cool, the mountains beckon. Greece has several ski areas with lifts, good rental equipment, and instructors. The closest to Athens is near Delphi on Mount Parnassus; Mount Helmos in the Peloponnese is 317 miles from Athens; to the north are Mount Pelion and Metsovo. From mid-September to June, Athenians spend much time rooting for their favorite soccer team in one of two major stadiums in Athens or in Piraeus. The new Olympic Stadium is used for a variety of national and international sports events. There are mountaineering, hiking, parachuting, track, table tennis, badminton, basketball, boxing, cycling, fencing, field hockey (not ice), riding, rowing, and volleyball associations. The American Women of Greece (AWOG) gives bridge lessons, and there are several Greek bridge clubs. Fishing enthusiasts will find excellent trout streams 3-5 hours from Athens. Sole, bass, pike, mullet, tuna, red snapper, and perch can be caught in the Aegean Sea. Greece is not a hunter's paradise, and access to overcrowded areas is difficult. The country-wide hunting license does not indicate the holder has any gun safety knowledge. Dove season lasts from mid August to midMarch; partridge season from midSeptember to mid-November; and other birds and game from mid-September to mid-March. Decoys and calls are prohibited. European and American hunting equipment, such as boots, guns, jackets, etc., are locally available, although American-made ammunition is difficult to obtain.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The heart of an assignment to Greece is definitely its availability of touring and outdoor activities. Outside the greater Athens area, one finds Greece. Even with a 2- or 3-year posting, careful planning is necessary to see what Greece offers, whether with numerous organized tours and cruises or using good

guidebooks and literature published by the National Tourist Organization. Representing every era are historical sites and museums throughout Greece. Within a few hours' drive are Delphi (the ancient navel of the world), Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus, Tiryns, and other renowned sites. By ferry, hydrofoil, cruise liner, or on Olympic Airways, the numerous islands are accessibleeach with its distinctive characterCrete, Santorini, Rhodes, Hydra, Corfu, and the innumerable picturesque smaller spots. Back in Athens are the Acropolis, Agora, Byzantine churches, Roman ruins, and 10 fine museums. Accommodations are available year round in Greece; however, during peak tourist season, advance reservations are wise, and in mid-winter, many hotels are closed. Hotels vary from deluxe class to back-packer quality, and recently the National Tourist Organization renovated several typical old Greek villas in several areas for tourist use. Camping is also popular in Greece, and grounds have been established throughout the country. Charter flights fly in and out of Greece regularly, but are not permitted to originate here. Compens a t i n g f o r t h i s, n u m e r o u s, inexpensive package tours are developed by AWOG and private agencies.

Entertainment Greece is characterized by the informality, spontaneity, simplicity, and individuality of its entertainment. Night life in Athens is diversified and interesting. Taverna-style restaurants throughout the city and suburbs offer music for dining and dancing. More sophisticated establishments offer floor shows. In summer, outdoor restaurants in the city, the suburbs, and on the sea front are popular. Athens' better restaurants and hotels serve Greek and continental food; several restaurants specialize in Asian and other ethnic food. In restaurants, cafes, bars, and nightclubs, a service charge of 15% is included in the bill; however, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest Drs 100.

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Cities of the World Athens and the suburbs have many movie theaters. Recent American films are popular and widely shown, as are Greek, French, Italian, Spanish, and German films. Most films are shown in their original language, with Greek subtitles. In summer, most movie houses are traditionally closed, and outdoor theaters take their place. Acoustics at the outdoor cinemas are poor, but the ambiance makes up for it. Theater and movie ushers expect a small tip. The theater, a tradition firmly rooted from classical days, operates in modern Greece year round but suffers the same economic restrictions faced in the U.S. and Europe. Even so, most of the private long-established Athenian theaters have full seasons. Greek translations of classical and contemporary plays by foreign playwrights are included in the repertory. A revival of the ancient outdoor theater, with the plays of Sophocles, Euripides, Aeschylus, and Aristophanes, is the basis of the annual Athens Festival held from June through August. Performances are given in three locations: in Athens at the imposing Roman-era Herodus Atticus theater; at the modern Lycabettus Hill theater, dramatically situated overlooking the city; and at the fourth century B.C. amphitheater, noted for its superb acoustics and setting in the Peloponnese at Epidaurus, 2-1/2 hours from Athens. There is a dance company that performs at the theater on Philopappou Street (opposite the Acropolis) during summer. Karagiozi shadow theater performances are held in public squares in summer. Greek commercial firms regularly organize recitals and theater and ballet performances with foreign artists and troupes during winter. The National Opera Company and the Athens Ballet Company perform in winter; the Athens State Orchestra and the Athens State Opera offer regular year-round programs. The Athens concert hall, the Megaron, has many classical music and ballet performances and hosts performers from around the world. “The Play-

ers,” an amateur theater company, and the Hellenic Amateur Musical Society (HAMS), which performs musical plays and light opera, give several productions in English each year and are always looking for volunteers. National and religious festivals are colorful, impressive, and worth seeing. It is also possible to be an armchair viewer, as most significant festivals are shown on TV Typical of such festivities are Epiphany (January) and the pre-Lenten carnival season. Common sense and good taste should govern photographing certain religious celebrations. Art exhibits are held at many galleries and cultural centers in Athens. The National Gallery of Art, opposite the Hilton Hotel, on Vasileos Constantinou Avenue, contains a collection of works by Greek painters. There are many museums devoted to folk art and handicrafts, where articles of high quality may be found in Athens, as well as in shops, villages, and islands. Greece has a reciprocal agreement with the US. concerning amateur radio operation. Currently, licenses are available. Applicants must have a valid U.S. amateur license issued by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The Greek Government does not allow third party traffic.

Social Activities Activities includes American clubs, fraternal organizations, and church groups that invite membership. For adults: AWOG; Newcomers; Greek Red Cross; American Legion; Masonic Order; Parent-Teacher Association; Propeller Club; YWCA; Wo m e n ' s I n t e r n a t i o n a l C l u b . AWOG was founded by the spouse of the American Ambassador in 1948 and is open to all American women, spouses of U.S. citizens, and to a smaller number of Greek and international members. The honorary president is always the spouse of the current American Ambassador. Originally founded as a study group, it has expanded to raise funds for welfare work in Greece, including bazaars, dances, musical programs, etc. It grants scholarships, aid to schools, orphanages, and hospitals. AWOG has an exten-

sive fine arts program, with weekly and monthly tours and lectures. It publishes “Hints for Living in Greece,” which is helpful to all newcomers. Newcomers is an informal and popular women's group with a wide international membership. Newcomers has no club dues, and the only membership requirement is the ability to speak English. Monthly meetings are held in members' homes. Other group activities include Greek cooking, international cooking, potluck dinners and cocktail parties, tennis, golf, play groups, tours, bridge, and walking groups. Religious groups include Catholic Women's Guild; Catholic Youth Organization; Protestant Wo m e n o f t h e C h a p e l ; S a i n t Andrew's Women's Guild; Saint Ann's Sodality; American Jewish Community Group. For young people there are Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts. Due to the many Americans and other English-speaking foreigners who live in Athens, international contacts are diverse and abundant. Thus it is easy to make social contacts among those with common interests. Americans are invited by Greek friends to weddings, christening s, and other ceremoni es i n churches and homes. Dress and etiquette vary according to occasion. Dozens of clubs and organizations in Greece are dedicated to public service, charity, philanthropy, and the exchange of ideas and cultural aspects of Greece and other countries. It is important to note that Greeks tend to dress more formally for events, and the Greek notion of “informal” is usually business attire. Membership in the Hellenic American Union is open to Greeks and Americans desiring to strengthen their cultural and friendship ties. The Union holds conferences, offers Greek language and art classes, lectures, and recitals; raises funds for scholarships; and promotes other worthwhile activities. The Propeller Club of the U.S. promotes business, 227

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Cities of the World man Empire in 1430 and suffered a decline in importance under the 482-year Turkish occupation. Many Jews expelled from Spain in 1492 settled in Thessaloniki, giving it, by the 19th century, one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. Turkish rule ended on October 26, 1912, with the recapture of the city by Greek troops. October 26 is also the name-day of the city's patron saint, Demetrios, and the liberation is celebrated every year on that day.

Seascape of Mykonos, Greece

p u b l i c r e l at i o n s, an d c u l t u r a l exchanges between the U.S. and Greece. Members are Greek and American business representatives, Mission officers, and Greek government personnel. The club holds monthly meetings with guest speakers, and its activities include granting scholarships and aiding schools, orphanages, and hospitals. The club's activities are financed by initiation fees, annual dues, and proceeds from an annual carnival ball cosponsored with AWOG.

Thessaloníki With over 1 million inhabitants, Thessaloniki is Greece's second largest city, located 300 miles north of Athens in the ancient province of Macedonia. Built around the shores of the Thermaikos Gulf and framed by its acropolis and Mount Hortiatis, Thessaloniki enjoys a splendid natural setting. Thessaloniki was founded in 315 BC by Kassandros, brother-in-law of Alexander the Great, probably on the site of classical Therme. Kassandros named the city after his wife, the daughter of Philip of Macedon and half-sister of Alexander the Great. Just two decades earlier King Philip had won a decisive victory for his Thessalian allies at 228

Courtesy of Molly Flint

Chaeronia. He named the daughter born to him that year Thessaloniki (“Thessalian Victory”) to commemorate his triumph. When Alexander's half-sister was wed to General Kassandros, the city was given to them as a home and renamed after her. In 146 AD Thessaloniki, by then under the domination of Rome, became an imperial provincial capital governing the area from the Adriatic to the Black Sea. During this era the famous Via Egnatia was constructed as a through-road between Rome in the west and Constantinople in the east. The Via Egnatia is one of the great commercial roads of history and remains one of Thessaloniki's major arteries. Thessaloniki achieved its greatest prominence during the late Roman and Byzantine periods when it became the first city of the “province” of Greece, far surpassing Athens in commercial and administrative importance. Its large natural port and location at a crossroads in southeastern Europe made it a tempting target for successive conquerors. As the Byzantine Empire declined, Saracens, Normans, and Venetians at various times gained control of the city. Venice bought Thessaloniki in 1423 AD, but the city was seized by the Otto-

The central part of Thessaloniki was rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1917 using a design drawn by the French architect Hebrard. During World War 11 the Germans occupied the city for nearly 4 years, until their withdrawal in October 1944. More than 50,000 members of the city's vibrant Jewish community perished during the Holocaust. Since the war, and particularly in the last 30 years, the city has expanded rapidly, its population rising from 380,000 in 1961 to 871,500 in 1981. Thessaloniki's character changed during this time from that of a prosperous provincial city to a booming, modern metropolis with all the urban problems that plague the world's large cities. Thessaloniki is second in Greece only to the Athens/Piraeus area as an industrial and commercial center. Industries in the area produce petrochemical products, textiles, wood and paper products, steel, and assorted manufactured goods. As throughout the city's history, transportation services and shipping remain significant sources of revenue for Thessaloniki. The city dreams of regaining its Byzantine role as a pan-Balkan commercial center. Although the overwhelming majority of its inhabitants are of Greek ethnic origin, Thessaloniki has small numbers of various other Balkan nationalities, as well as a few thousand members of the oncethriving Jewish community. Thessaloniki also houses two of Greece's largest universities and two US.affiliated private colleges that

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Cities of the World attract students from throughout Greece and the southern Balkans. The post's consular district encompasses the two northernmost Greek provinces-Macedonia and Thraceextending from Albania in the west to the Turkish border in the east and from the Aegean Sea and Thessaly in the south to The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Bulgaria in the north. Some 3,500 U.S. citizens live in the Thessaloniki area. Most are of Greek origin and reside permanently in Greece. Several Americans are employed by local English speaking private schools; others teach and study at the Aristotle University in Thessaloniki under Fulbright and other programs.

Food Most Thessalonicans still shop at their small neighborhood stores. These stores come in a variety of distinct flavors: bakeries, pastry shops, butchers, cheese merchants, produce sellers, grocers, and fishmongers. All provide a wide selection of quality products. Additionally, there is a large, covered central market area that sells regional produce and other foodstuffs, and many neighborhoods have weekly farmers' markets. The fresh fruits and vegetables are usually of excellent quality and relatively inexpensive, although more seasonal than in the U.S. Seafood is readily available, but often rather pricey. Cheeses and dairy products are excellent, as is the large variety of bread available locally. In addition to these traditional sources, there are two Americanstyle supermarket chains with outlets in the city. These supermarkets stock, however, a European style inventory. Diet drinks and low calorie foods are difficult to find. The city's unfluoridated water is potable but not particularly tasty. Most people drink bottled water, which is readily available at all locations. Local wines are inexpensive and of excellent quality. European and American brands are

also obtainable. Beer and liquor are not duty-free outside the commissary. Most Greeks prefer beer or scotch whiskey to wine, so there is no need to purchase other alcoholic beverages.

Shopping, Services, and Transportation

for official use. Other utilities are normally reliable, but water pressure and supply can be problematic in some areas during the summer. ATMs connected to U.S. bank networks (Cirrus, Plus) dispense local currency around the clock.

Barbers, hairdressers, and dry cleaners are available at US prices and quality, and traditional tailors and cobblers have shops throughout the city. Electronic, appliance, and automotive repair is also readily available in Thessaloniki, although spare parts for American and some other non-European models are often unavailable. Ford, Honda, Chrysler (Jeep only), Toyota, Hyundai, and all European manufacturers have service and parts facilities in the city but may be unfamiliar with models not sold in Europe.

Most shops are small family operations. As described above, the city also has several large supermarkets (which also sell clothing, appliances, electronics, office supplies, and other items), as well as a bulk purchase discount warehouse, Footlocker shoe stores, a large toy store modeled on Toys “R” Us, and two large hardware stores similar to Home Depot. Numerous shops sell antiques, and there is a weekly open- air f lea marke t ne ar the Rotunda. Sporting goods are expensive and difficult to find.

Taxis in the city are numerous if a bit feisty. Drivers routinely pick up other passengers en route and often refuse to take customers to destinations deemed inconvenient. Radio taxis can be ordered at a slight additi onal cost but are sometimes unavailable at peak hours. Buses are frequent and inexpensive but often crowded. Traffic is heavy in the city center-often at unusual hours by U.S. standards but generally acceptable in most other neighborhoods. Many city streets are oneway, causing additional confusion. Street parking is difficult everywhere in town. Minor streets are very narrow and crowded with parked cars. Inter-city roads are well marked but of wildly varying quality. Road surfaces are more slippery than in the U. S. and stopping distances longer.

Most larger stores will have at least one employee who speaks some English. At smaller establishments, communication can require a bit more creativity on the part of the non-Greek speaker.

Telephone service is generally reliable and most of the network has been upgraded to all-digital lines. Local providers sell Internet access at approximately U.S. prices, but line speed is limited to 33.6 KB. Modems may require user software reconfiguration to detect local dial tone. Phone calls cost about 100 Drs./minute. Cell phones are ubiquitous and reasonably priced. Officers are provided with mobile phones

Prices for clothing, appliances, electronics, toys, cosmetics, toiletries, and most other items are generally higher than in the U.S. The selection of over-the counter medications is limited and available only at pharmacies. Shops are open three evenings a week but otherwise close in mid-afternoon. Virtually all are closed Sunday and holidays. As in the rest of Greece, Thessaloniki's public hospitals provide nearly free healthcare; however, most foreigners choose to use private hospitals. Saint Lucas Clinic, a private hospital in Panorama, provides quality healthcare for slightly below U.S. prices. The InterBalkan Medical Center, a state-of-the-art private hospital affiliated with the Medical Center Hospital in Athens, opened in 2000. Many physicians speak English and are US.-trained. Local dental and optical care providers are good. Nearly two dozen television stations broadcast locally around the clock. 229

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Most programs are in Greek, but normally there are one or two English-language movies on each evening as well as National Geographic and other documentaries. Many more American movies are broadcast late in the evening, usually after midnight. U. S. network evening news broadcasts are shown live early each morning. Satellite service is available free with a dish but offers only two channels in English, with the remainder broadcasting in French, Italian, German, and Polish. Pay cable TV includes movie and cartoon channels. Many shops rent videos (SECAM system) inexpensively. There are many radio stations, some featuring a mix of Greek and American music.

Domestic Help Full-time domestic help is difficult to obtain, and wages are high. Parttime help is reasonably available for a b o u t $ 3 0 f o r a 6 - 8 h o u r d ay. English-speaking childcare for evenings can be located with a little persistence but is difficult to find it for days.

Religious Activities A synagogue serves the long-established Jewish community. The Greek Evangelical Church, located downtown, serves the small Greek Protestant community. The Church of the Immaculate Conception downtown holds Catholic Mass; services and sermons are in Greek and are in French on Sunday evenings. Confessions are heard in Greek, French, and Italian. An Anglican Episcopal vicar conducts services in English on Sunday in the Armenian Church on Dialetti Street.

Education The Pinewood Schools Association. Inc. is a private, nonprofit corporation providing pre-kindergarten (ages 3 and 4) through grade 12 education for English speaking, mostly non-Greek children. The school year consists of two semesters running from early September to early January and from mid-January to midJune. Curricula, teaching plans, and materials conform to US. standards, and the school has been accredited in the U.S. An elected 11230

member board, including the Consul General as an ex officio member, governs the school. Pinewood has 20 full-time and 7 part-time teachers, about half of whom are American. Total enrollment averages 240 children. Roughly a quarter of the students are American and the rest are a diverse group from 32 different countries. With a student-to-teacher ratio of around 10:1, classes are normally small with frequent individual attention. Pinewood has decently equipped and maintained facilities, including a chemistry/biology laboratory, small gym/ auditorium, library/ audio-visual center, music and art rooms, and computer room. The school offers instruction in music and Greek and provides a limited after-school activities program. There is an on-campus snack bar, and school bus service is available to most areas. Pinewood can be contacted at: Director Pinewood Schools Association, PO. Box 21001, 555 10 Pilea, Thessaloniki, Greece. Te1.:30-31301-221 Fax: 30-31-323-196 E-mail: [email protected] The American College of Thessaloniki provides a U.S.-accredited, liberal arts undergraduate education in English. Additional information is available at the: American College of Thessaloniki, c/o Anatolia College,PO. Box 21021, 555 10 Pilea, Thessaloniki, Greece. Tel.: 3031-316-740 Fax: 30-31-301-076 The Aristotle University in Thessaloniki offers (in Greek) a foreign students program, including an excellent intensive Greek course, that does not require applicants to take an entrance examination. City University offers part-time (day and evening) undergraduate and graduate classes in English through the University of Sheffield (England).

Sports Several small but good tennis clubs are available through club membership. In addition to public and

YMCA courts, Anatolia College rents two tennis courts during summer. The American Farm School also has a court available. The YMCA in the center of the city has a swimming pool, handball, and basketball courts, and offers aerobics, yoga, art classes, and other activities (in Greek). Several small private gyms offer members access to facilities of varying quality around the city. Northern Greece's one golf course, on the Halkidiki peninsula, is currently closed. For horse lovers, several excellent riding schools (English saddle only) with inexpensive instruction in English operate in Thermi and Panorama. Private tennis, swimming, pottery, and other lessons are available at a reasonable price. Cycling can be difficult due to traffic and dogs, but short, pleasant and safe rides are possible along the waterfront. Mountain biking possibilities exist in the forests and hills near the city. Athletic equipment is, however, both difficult to find and expensive. Soccer is the most popular spectator sport in Thessaloniki, though basketball is also well attended. The city has three athletic associations that field both soccer and basketball teams in Greece's premier leagues.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The nearest beaches, including one with bathhouses, snack bars, chairs, and umbrellas, are 15-20 miles from the city. Some 45-75 miles from the city, crystal-clear water and isolated beaches provide excellent bathing and snorkeling. The more isolated beaches have no cabins or bathhouses to provide protection from the hot sun. Beach and snorkel equipment is available locally in season. Modest apartments near the beach are available for summer or year round rental at reasonable prices. VOA/ Kavala (3 hours by car) boasts a modest nine-hole golf course, club house, and private beach. Ferry service from Thessaloniki to many Greek islands is available throughout the summer. A

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Cities of the World local hotel offers free pool use for families during the summer with the understanding that parents will purchase beverages and snacks during their visit. Three yacht clubs provide anchorage but only limited service for small craft. Small motorboats are available but expensive. Most weekday mornings see a few sculls rowing across the main harbor. Good hiking is possible in nearby mountains, and ambitious hikers can climb 10,000-foot Mt. Olympus (40 miles distant), overnighting at one of the two hikers lodges near the summit. There are ski resorts within 2 hours at Selli in the Vermion Range, Tria-Pente Pigadia in Naoussa, Lialias in Serres, and 3 hours distant in Bulgaria. Locally purchased equipment is expensive. Partridge, quail, dove, hare, and wild boar can be hunted in fall, but hunting is poor in the immediate vicinity of Thessaloniki. Waterfowl hunting can be arranged but is expensive. Salt water fishing and spear fishing is good in nearby Halkidiki, but nearby lakes are too polluted for fresh water fish to thrive. More isolated rivers and lakes are better choices. Like all of Greece, the area around Thessaloniki boasts numerous archaeological sites and museums. Pella, ancient capital of Macedonia and birthplace of Alexander the Great, is 45 minutes from Thessaloniki. Several beautifully preserved mosaics and numerous artifacts are on display. At nearby Vergina, several royal tombs were discovered in 1977. One is believed to be that of Philip II, father of Alexander. The principal finds are on exhibit in new underground museum onsite. Naoussa, noted for its fruit trees, wine, and fresh trout; Edessa, with its dam and picturesque waterfalls; Kastoria, a picturesque, provincial town, noted for its Byzantine churches, scenic beauty, and fur industry; and the islands of Thasos and Samothrace are all within easy driving or ferry distance. The unique Mount Athos peninsula is also nearby. The monasteries of the

Mount Athos (known as the “Holy Mountain” in Greek) form an independent ecclesiastical government dating from medieval times. Visitors travel to Ouranoupolis by road (2 hours) and then by small boat out onto the peninsula. Entry to the peninsula requires a visa (issued locally), and no women or minors are allowed.

Entertainment Local and international artists present a variety of Greek-language plays, concerts, lectures, and exhibits throughout the year. The Opera Company, the National Theater, and other Athens companies come to Thessaloniki annually for l-to 2week runs. The National Symphony Orchestra of Northern Greece performs weekly fall through spring, and in the summer an outdoor theater brings high-quality cultural events to a hillside venue above the city. The Thessaloniki Concert Hall, a new facility for classical music, and the fully remodeled Royal Theater opened their doors in 2000. Both host performances by international and Greek groups, including well known ensembles such as Britain's Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. The International Trade Fair of Thessaloniki is held annually during September with industrial exhibits, consumer goods, and entertainment activities. The city holds a wine festival during the fair, as well as a Greek song festival and a week-long cinema festival. An outdoor flower exhibit and international jazz festival open each May, and the city hosts a major cultural festival each October and an international film festival each November. Various colorful and interesting religious festivities occur throughout the year. The city has a good-size waterslide park with tube rides and wave pool, and a year-round, carnival-style amusement park. There are a number of both indoor and outdoor movie theaters, including three state-of-the-art multiplexes. Theaters show mostly big-budget American films (which tend to appear 3 to 6 months after they debut in the States); movies are always shown in

their original language with Greek subtitles, except for cartoons, which are usually dubbed. Thessaloniki has an active nightlife centering on the three club districts and a strip of cafes along the waterfront. Clubs are loud, trendy, and packed. The more popular places often charge significant covers even for nights with recorded music. Hyatt Regency operates an upscale casino just outside the city that features slots and gaming tables. A large nightclub and open-air theater complex just beyond the western edge of the city offers a variety of jazz, rock, and (Greek) comedy performances. Thessaloniki is reputed to have over 3,000 restaurants, including hundreds of charming Greek restaurants and tavernas, many of them featuring al fresco dining. NonGreek cuisine is confined to a few Italian, French, European, American, and Chinese restaurants of varying quality. McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Applebee's, and Haagen Dazs have outlets in the city. Anatolia College (a local US.-affiliated high school) and the British Council Library have English-language books and periodicals for loan. Local bookstores have a fair selection of English-language books at high prices. Pinewood School keeps its library open 1 day a week during the summer for children who wish to borrow books when classes are out.

Social Activities Northern Greeks adhere to a daily schedule that does not always fit well with an American workday. Offices open between 8 and 9 a.m., but many close permanently for the day in mid-afternoon. Lunch rarely occurs before 1:30 in the afternoonlater on the weekends-and tends to last several hours. Dinner in private homes and at restaurants seldom begins before 9 p.m. and can start as late as 10:30 or 11 p.m. on weekend evenings. Nightclubs and similar centers generally do not begin to fill with people before midnight and often remain active until dawn, 231

Greece even during the week. The city's large university population (about 60,000) ensures that such establishments are always busy. Social life among Americans is informal and casual. The principal social activity is entertaining at home: luncheons, buffet dinners, cards, cocktails, etc. Greek hosts take their guests to restaurants, although home entertaining is becoming more common. Several pleasant outdoor restaurants offer dancing in summer, and charity balls are held during the 3-4 weeks in the pre-Lenten carnival season. Some Americans study Greek folk dancing at the American Farm School. Four Rotary Clubs welcome Americans, but Greek is the primary language used. Other clubs include the Lions Club; Propeller Club; International Women of Greece, which provides lectures and sightseeing trips for its members and engages in local charity work; and the American-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce.

Rhodes Rhodes is a modern city of 41,400 residents, and is the largest, most cosmopolitan resort in Greece. It is located on the Island of Rhodes, which lies on the southeastern coast of the Aegean Sea, 225 miles southeast of Athens and only 12 miles south of Turkey. Rhodes, the most important of the 12 Greek islands known as the Dodecanese, is about 65 miles long and 25 miles wide. The city is the capital of both the island and of the Dodecanese. Each year, three-quarters of a million tourists swell its population and bring business to its large shopping area, its restaurants and casino, its travel agencies, and its many hotels. The city is, as well as a famous resort, a manufacturing center and port. There is an international airport with daily flights to Athens by Olympic Airways (45 minutes) and chartered flights to Europe and the M i d d l e E a s t . D u r i n g s u m m e r, Olympic Airways also has flights to 232

Cities of the World London and Cairo, and to Mykonos, Santorini, Kos, Karpathos, Kasos, and Iráklion (Candia). There also are regular ship connections to all the Dodecanese islands, Piraeus (Athens’ port), Crete, Cyprus, and Israel. The trip to Piraeus on large ferries takes approximately 20 hours. The private American community is small, including a few families engaged in philanthropic work or the arts, and a number of retired persons, mostly Greek-Americans. Rhodes enjoys a temperate Mediterranean climate, with cool summers and relatively mild winters, creating an excellent condition to produce crops such as figs, olives, grapes, vegetables, etc. During summer, a breeze called meltemi keeps temperatures below 90°F near the sea, although inland the temperature and humidity are higher. Freezing temperatures in winter are unusual. January and February are months of heavy rainfall. Rhodes as an island was colonized in 1,000 B.C., but the city itself dates to 408 B.C. The present city is on the site of ancient Rhodes, and in its harbor is the famous Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Some of the powerful fortifications built by the Knights Hospitalers, who dramatically resisted Turkish siege in the Middle Ages, are part of the present harbor.

Rhodes has an 18-hole golf course located at Afandou, near the transmitter plant, and playable year round. The course is part of a resort complex which includes clubhouse, tennis courts, Olympic-size swimming pool, and shallow pool for youngsters. The Rhodes Tennis Club is open for membership for a very reasonable fee. The club has two clay courts in downtown Rhodes. Several of the tourist hotels have hard-surfaced courts, and these can be rented at an hourly rate. The Rhodes Palace Hotel is the only place on the island with bowling facilities. The four-lane alley has AMF automatic pinsetters. The main summer activities are swimming and sunbathing, with many available beaches. Swimming hazards are few, and shark attacks are unknown. The water is clear and clean. Because of the narrow roadways in most villages, bicycling is an excellent, although tiring, way to see the island. Bicycles can be rented in the city of Rhodes at an hourly rate. Arrangements can be made to rent or charter boats. Membership in the Rhodes Yacht Club is available; dues are quite reasonable, but facilities are minimal. Club members moor their boats free. Small boats are usually dry-docked during winter. Marine supplies are not available in Rhodes.

Recreation Interesting sites to explore in Rhodes include the Citadel; Kameiros Temple; and the medieval group of buildings in the old section of the city—the Palace of the Grand Master (of the Order of St. John), the hospital, and the various inns, or billets, of the nationalities of knights forming the order. The Inn of Auvergne is a handsome 15th-century building set in the Square of the Amory. Interesting collections are on display in the Archaeological and the Byzantine museums, and the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Special Information Rhodes is considered one of the most beautiful places in Greece, but it is an island, isolated for most practical purposes from involvement and interests of mainland living. The main highway and almost all city streets are paved; however, many villages, popular beaches, and points of interest can be reached only by rocky roads. Streets in town are often quite narrow, and parking space is scarce. Some services are limited, such as medical care, but in general the

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Chryssoupolis, 20 miles east of Kavala, from which Olympic Airways operates daily flights to and from Athens. A few miles from Kavala are the ruins of the ancient city of Philippi, named by Alexander the Great in honor of his father, and the site of St. Paul's first sermon in Europe. There, the theater of Philippi is still in use during summer, and portions of St. Paul's first churches in Europe still remain.

© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

Fortifications and palace of the Grand Master in Rhodes

training and competence of physicians and dentists is good. There is a hospital, where minor surgery can be performed, and which has X-ray and laboratory facilities. Basic services and supplies are readily available. However, items such as spare parts for cars are in short supply, and local mechanics have limited capabilities for automotive repair. Rhodes does not have English-language libraries. The International Herald Tribune and many other papers and magazines can be found at various newsstands, but papers often are delayed on weekends and holidays. Most hotels will not accept pets, so boarding arrangements must be checked in advance. Several veterinarians practice in Rhodes, but no kennels are available.

Patras Patras, with a population of more than 142,000, is located in the northern Peloponnesus, and connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Ionian Sea. It is a major industrial center and the country’s main western port. Its chief exports are currants, wine, olive oil, and sheepskins.

A city of lovely, arcaded streets, Patras is the center of Greece’s elaborate pre-Lenten Carnival celebrations. Its old fortifications, dating from the Middle Ages, and its famous Claus winery are among the principal points of interest. A university was founded in the city in 1966. Patras (in Greek Pátri) was occupied by the Turks during the 18th and 19th centuries (until 1828), and it was here that the Greek War of Independence began in 1821. For three-and-a-half years during World War II, from April 1941 until October 1944, the city was again occupied, this time by Axis powers. History tells that it was in Patras that St. Andrew, one of the Twelve Disciples, was martyred on an x-shaped cross, which came to be known as a St. Andrew’s cross. He had been a missionary in Asia Minor and in Macedonia.

Kavala Kavala, with about 70,000, is a mixture of old and new. Its seaport accommodates light shipping, and fishing boats operate from there. It is a popular tourist city, with a picturesque old quarter, Turkish fortress, and Roman aqueduct. Kavala has an international airport near

The climate is comparable to that of the U.S. southern states. In winter, temperatures are in the 30s and low 40s, with a few days of below-freezing weather. Northern Greece gets its rain in winter and early spring. In the summer months of July and August, temperatures range around 90°E. The Kavala Relay Station is one of VOA's largest overseas radio relay stations. The Relay Station site occupies a 2,000-acre plot of flat land bordered on one side by the Aegean Sea. Near the western border of the plot is the mouth of the Nestos River. The site contains the transmitter plant building (housing the station's administrative offices and the transmitting plant operation), the power plant building (with nearby storage tanks that have a capacity of 1 million gallons of diesel fuel), the warehouse/ g a r a g e f a c i l i t i e s b u i l d i n g, a n antenna field, 15 houses for American families, and private beach facilities. The transmitter plant receives RFE/RL VOA radio programs from the U.S. via satellite. Programs are rebroadcast to target areas, including east and central Europe, central and south Asia, the Middle East, and Africa by medium- and shortwave radio broadcast transmitters using directional antennas. The telephone number for Kavala Relay Station is (0541) 61120 and 61130.

Religious Activities Mass is celebrated at the small Catholic church in Kavala on Sun233

Greece days. No nearby religious services in English are available.

Recreation and Social Life An extensive sandy beach winds along the south boundary of the station and can be enjoyed during summer. A 9-hole golf course and two tennis courts are available.

OTHER CITIES CANEA, or Khaniá, the capital of Crete since 1841, lies on the north coast of the island known to the Greeks as Kríti. The arsenal and medieval fortifications testify to the history of the Venetian colony which flourished here in the 13th century. The town and the island itself have been, through the ages, under Roman, Arab, Byzantine, Venetian, Turkish and, finally, Greek rule. In May 1941, the area was heavily damaged and captured by German airborne forces. Canea is a seaport city with a population of 47,500. Greek Orthodox and Catholic bishoprics are located here. The city of CORFU, on the beautiful island whose name it bears, is called Kérkyra in Greek. Churches, villas, museums, libraries, hotels, and parks are surrounded by the Ionian Sea in a setting that draws thousands of tourists throughout the year. The narrow, medieval streets of this island port belie the modern accommodations and resort facilities found here. The Greek royal family, now in exile, once maintained a summer villa outside the city. Corfu was a major port during its four centuries (1386–1797) as a Venetian possession. CORINTH, as a new city, was founded in 1858 after a devastating earthquake leveled the ancient town which had stood near the p r e s e n t s i t e f o r 1 0 c e n t u r i e s. Another earthquake in 1928 caused considerable damage, and extensive rebuilding was done again. Corinth lies on the Gulf of the same name in the northeastern Peloponnesus, and is home to about 22,500 people. The ruins of the ancient and once power234

Cities of the World ful city, about three miles from the modern community, include vestiges of the Agora (forum), theater, fountains, and some of the columns of the archaic temple of Apollo. Modern Corinth is a transportation center for wines and raisins. Like so many other strategic Greek cities, it was occupied by German troops during World War II. IRÁKLION (also known as Candia or Heraklion) is a seaport city of 102,500 residents on the north shore of Crete. The largest city on the island, it is an episcopal see (Greek Orthodox), and also the site of a famous museum of Minoan antiquities. Founded in 832 by the Saracens, it was occupied by the Venetians between the 13th and 17th centuries. Still remaining around the town are some of the Venetian walls and fortifications. Iráklion is another of the many Greek cities devastated during World War II (spring of 1941) by German troops. The city is located on some of Crete’s best farmland; exports include grapes, wine, olives, and leather. LARISSA, with a population of about 113,000, is a rail and agricultural trading city on the Piniós River in eastern Thessaly. It was the ancient capital of the Pelasgians, a fifth-century Christian heretical sect who defied the accepted doctrines of theology. It was at Larissa that the Turkish military governor, Ali Pasha, maintained his headquarters in the Greek War of Independence in 1821. The city did not become part of Greece until 1881. In more recent times, it was the scene of bitter fighting between the German and the British-Greek armies in April 1941. Today, Larissa is linked with the port of Vólos by rail. PIRAEUS, a part of Greater Athens, is linked to the capital by electric railway and highway. Situated six miles south of Athens on the northern coast of Greece, this major port and commercial city’s population exceeds 196,000. Industries here include the manufacture of textiles, chemicals, and machinery.

Piraeus’ harbor has been significant since the fifth century B.C., when it was Athens’ naval base. The city’s port was destroyed during World War II, and was restored after the war. The ancient city of SPARTA, situated in the Eurotas valley of southern Greece, was renowned in history as the leading power of the country. Today, modern Sparta, with an estimated population of 12,900, lies near the remains of the old city, less than 75 miles south of Corinth. The few reminders of ancient Sparta are in poor condition. However, the Byzantine town of Mistra, founded in about 1250, is four miles west and is well preserved. Helen, wife of the Spartan king, Menelaus, was supposedly taken from Sparta. Her abduction is said to have instigated the Trojan War. During the eighth century Sparta was prosperous, and became a cultural center. It was a meeting hub for artists and poets. Currently, the city is the capital of Laconia Department; its economic mainstays are olives and grapes. The capital city of Arcadia Department, TRIPOLIS (also called Tripolitsa or Tripolitza) is situated about 40 miles southwest of Corinth. Located in southern Greece, Tripolis is an important center for tanning, woodworking, agricultural trade, and textiles. The city was the regional capital of Morea under Turkish rule. It was severely damaged in 1821 and 1825 during the war for independence. Tripolis has a population of about 120,000. VÓLOS is a seaport city in southeastern Thessaly on the Gulf of Vólos, an inlet of the Aegean Sea. It is a transportation, communications, and industrial center which has developed considerably in recent years; its population is a r o u n d 7 1 , 0 0 0 . G r a i n , w i n e, tobacco, and olives are the principal goods shipped from here. Close to Vólos are the ancient ruins of Iolcus and Demetrias.

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COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Greece, a rugged country of mountains and islands, is bordered on the north by Bulgaria, the former Yugoslav Federal Republic of Macedonia, and Albania; on the east by Turkey and the Aegean Sea; and on the south and west by the Mediterranean and Ionian Seas. The land area, including the islands, is 50,270 square miles (about the size of Alabama). Only 25% of the land is arable, and much of that is dry and rocky. Greece is 2 hours east (ahead) of Greenwich mean time and at about the same latitude as New Jersey, Maryland, and Virginia. Greece has mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. Athens daytime summer temperature averages 90°F and often exceeds 100 °F for periods in July-August. Humidity is low and the heat is tempered by sea breezes. Summer evenings are comfortable outdoors. Spring and fall temperatures are pleasant, and winter temperatures are 30 °F-55 °F. Snow flurries occur, particularly in the northern suburbs, but seldom accumulate. Air pollution is a major problem in Athens throughout the year, but the climate is otherwise healthy. Thessaloniki, in northern Greece, experiences high temperatures and humidity from the end of May until the end of September. Summer heat is sometimes tempered by late morning and early evening breezes. July and August nights can be uncomfortably warm. In winter, periods of mild, sunny, and springlike weather are interspersed with uncomfortable cold periods. Thessaloniki has periods of chilly and damp weather, with considerable rainfall and occasional snow. Temperatures often fall below freezing in winter. Although snow does not linger, the city has been struck by blizzards. One feature of Thessaloniki's climate is the vardari, a strong

northwesterly wind that appears suddenly and irregularly from the area of the Axios (Vardar) River Valley.

Population Greece's population is about 10.1 mil lion. Metropolitan Athens, i n c l u d i n g P i r a e u s, h a s a b o u t 4,250,000 people, and greater Thessaloniki 1 million. Other population centers are the cities of Patras, Volos, Iraklion, Kavala, Larisa, Kalamata, and Tripolis. Most of the remainder of Greece is sparsely populated. About 28% of the population is agricultural, a percentage that is declining with greater economic development and increasing urbanization. Greeks claim continuity with ancient Greeks, whose language achieved its first written form in Mycenaean times 14 centuries before Christ. The modern Greek language, “Dimotiki,” maintains most of the vocabulary and some of the grammar of ancient Greek. “Katharevousa,” a 19th century attempt to eliminate foreign influences and return the language to its classical roots, has been almost completely phased out since 1974 as a language of culture and administration. During Byzantine and Ottoman times, Greece received Slavic, Albanian, Turkish, Gypsy, and other population inflows. Since the 1821 War of Independence, however, Greece has been the subject of a nation building process that has resulted in one of the most ethnically homogeneous societies in Europe. The only officially recognized minority is a Muslim population (130,000 persons) concentrated in Western Thrace, though most Gypsies and many Vlach, Slav, and Albanian speakers continue to use their traditional languages at home. Urban Greeks strongly encourage their children to learn foreign languages. Most leading shops, hotels, and restaurants in Athens and Thessaloniki employ clerks who speak English. This is not the case outside major tourist centers, how-

ever, where some knowledge of Greek makes life easier and more rewarding. The Greek Orthodox Church is the predominant religion in Greece, professed by 98% of the population. The Church is self governing under the Archbishop of Athens and all Greece and has historic ties to the Ecumenical Patriarchate in Istanbul. American citizens residing in the Athens area are estimated to be approximately 30,000. Many Greek Americans are retired in Greece, and several multinational corporations who have local or Middle Eastern operations based in Athens employ US. citizens. Athens and the rest of Greece have a steady flow of US. tourists each year.

Public Institutions Greece's current constitution dates to the restoration of democracy following the 1967-74 military dictatorship (junta). The 1975 constitution establishes Greece as a parliamentary democracy, the Hellenic Republic, with the President as its largely ceremonial head of state. The Prime Minister, as head of government, is responsible to a 300-seat Parliament of the Hellenes elected every 4 years by a system of reinforced proportional representation. Greece has an independent judiciary along European models. The constitution guarantees a wide range of civil liberties. The largest political party in Greece's parliament is the Panhellenic Socialist Movement (PASOK), which won 41.5% of the popular vote in the September 1996 general election and achieved 162 seats in Parliament. PASOK president Constantine Simitis is Prime Minister. Since winning its first election in 1981, PASOK has governed the country for about 13 years. The largest opposition party, the center right New Democracy Party (ND), holds 108 parliamentary seats after winning 38.1% of the vote in September 1996. Three smaller parties, each of which received at least 3 percent of the popular vote in the last election, 235

Greece together hold the remaining 30 seats. The current President of the Republic, Constantine Stephanopoulos, an independent conservative politician widely respected across the political spectrum, was elected by Parliament to a 5-year term in 1995. The current government places its highest priority on entry into the European Union's Economic and Monetary Union (common currency union). To do this, Greece must satisfy the economic criteria in the Maastricht Treaty for acceptable performance on inflation, budget deficit, and government debt. If Greece meets expectations on the Maastricht criteria, it can look forward to EMU entry on January 1, 2001. Greece has been a member of the European Union since 1981, and Greek policy on most international issues follows the EU consensus. Greece is also a member of NATO, the OSCE, the Council of Europe, the Western European Union, and the United Nations.

Arts, Science, and Education Greece has rich cultural roots, and a continuing literary, artistic, and musical life. Modern writers carry on the heritage and tradition of the giants of ancient and recent Greek letters. The writings of Nikos Kazantzakis and the Nobel Prize laureates, George Seferis and Odyss e u s E l y t i s, a r e a v a i l a b l e i n English, as are many others. Although Greek art suffered neglect during the centuries when Greece was under foreign domination, art is again flourishing with works from the primitive through realism to extreme avant-garde. Athens has scores of active and interesting commercial galleries, as well as other urban art centers. Greek museums are also numerous, from the world class Cycladic Art Museum to the assortment of masterpieces in the National Archaeological Museum. Other important museums in Athens include the 236

Cities of the World Benaki Mu seum, th e Fo lk Art Museum, the Byzantine Museum, and the Goulandris Natural History Museum. Folk art and handicrafts survive in Greece, but, as a result of commercialization and tourism, it is difficult to distinguish between “souvenirs” and the genuine article. Greek popular music, with its delightful melodies and rhythms, can be heard on numerous radio stations around the clock, as well as at frequent public concerts and in nightclubs. Many Americans fall under the spell of more exotic music featuring the “bouzouki,” a stringed instrument, heard not only on the radio, but also in “bouzouki clubs,” where performances usually start at midnight. Rebetika (turn-of-thecentury popular folk music) is experiencing a strong revival throughout the country. Folk dancing can sometimes be seen in the Greek countryside, especially on holidays, and city dwellers may spontaneously break into traditional dances at parties and other social functions. In the Plaka district of Athens, several taverns have live dance shows, as well as some other more authentic (but far from the center) folk music nightclubs. Athens has many theaters. Most performances are in modern Greek. Occasionally, foreign t ou r ing compa ni es perfor m in English. The Karagiozi shadow puppet theater, with oriental and Turkish antecedents, is also worth seeing. The Athens Festival, held every year from June to July, features performing arts ranging from Greek tragedy to modern dance and rock groups, often with internationally famous groups or stars from the U.S., Europe, and elsewhere. Cultural centers of interest to the English-speaking community are the Hellenic American Union (HAU), the British Council, and the Athens Center. Their programs, which normally extend from October through May, include concerts, films, exhibits, lectures, and panel discussions. Education is revered in Greece, and the hunger for education in both the humanities and sci-

ences remains high. Greeks attach great value to higher education, and many study abroad. The HAU in Athens is a private, nonprofit, binational educational and cultural institution with close ties to the Public Affairs Office. Its main function is English teaching, but the HAU also offers a variety of courses, including all levels of modern spoken Greek, Greek studies, Greek dance, creative arts, and writing skills. The library, which is curr e n t l y cl o s e d f o r r e n o v a t i o n s, includes remnants of the former USIS library, including about 5,000 volumes on all subjects related to the U.S., as well as periodicals and on-line services. The library can be reached through the HAU switchboard. Athens has several libraries, most of which are non-circulating, e.g., the National Library of Greece, the Parliament Library, and the Athens Municipal Library. Some of the lending libraries open to the public are the following: HAU, American Library, 22 Massalias Street, Athens British Council Library Kolonaki Square, Athens, 363-3215 French Institute Library, 31 Sina Street, Athens, 362-4301 Goethe Institute Library, 14-16 Omirou Street, Athens 522-9294 National Research Foundation Library (periodicals only), 48 Vas. Konstantinou Ave., Athens, 7229811 Evgenides Foundation Library, 387 Syngrou Ave., Athens, 941-1118

Commerce and Industry During the past three decades, Greece has changed from an agrarian to a semi industrial economy. This shift has resulted in rapid urbanization, so that most of the country's 10.5 million inhabitants live in towns of more than 10,000 people.

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Cities of the World In 1996, agriculture output accounted for 11% of the total GDP, industry 18%, while services (prim a r i l y t o u r i s m a n d s h i pp i n g ) totaled 63%. Shipping is a major economic activity. The Greek commercial fleet is the largest in the world. The Greek flag flies on 946 ships with a total gross registered tonnage of 27.8 million tons (February 1998 data). Another 2,412 ships of 1.1 million tons are controlled by Greek interests under foreign flags (February 1998 data). Greece's most important industries, it terms of production and employment, arc food processing, tobacco, textiles chemicals, including refineries nonmetallic minerals, metallurgy shipbuilding, aerospace and military equipment, cement, and pharmaceutical; Greece is a leading world producer of bentonite, magnesite, and perlite, as well as an important European producer of bauxite, cement, ferrochromium, emery, and marble. A plant processing bauxite into alumina, then into al u mi n um , i s o pe r a te d b y th e French firm Pechiney on the Gulf of Corinth. A Greek-Russian agreement to complete a new plant to process bauxite into alumina in Domvraina (Biotic) near the bauxite of Mount Parnassus is still undecided. Greece is also endowed with lignite reserves, which are exploited for domestic energy uses. U.S. investment in Greece is estimated at $2.2 billion, representing almost a third of all foreign investment. Major U.S. investments include: Mobil Oil ($170.2 million); Pepsico foods and beverages ($101.6 million); Hyatt Hotels ($106.2 million), Philip Morris Group ($97.8 million), and Procter & Gamble ($97.2 million). Development projects by the Greek state include: a natural gas network for industrial and household use in Athens, Thessaloniki, Larissia, and Volos; hydroelectric power plants in northern and central Greece; a new international airport at Spata near Athens; metro systems for the cities

of Athens and Thessaloniki; a 1.5mile bridge linking Rion and Antirrion at the western end of the Gulf of Corinth; a tunnel linking Aktion-Preveza in Western Greece; an irrigation and hydroelectricity project in Thessaly (Acheloos river diversion); computerization of the Greek Postal Service; wastewater treatment plants for the cities of A t h e n s , I r a k l i o n , Vo l o s , a n d Larissa; upgrading of the highway network; completion of ports infrastructure; and modernization of the main north-south railway system. Greece's low levels of investment during the last decade have not expanded its industrial base sufficiently to meet domestic demand. As a result, imports are twice as large as exports. The merchandise trade deficit, however, has been largely counterbalanced in most years by strong inflows from tourism, emigrant remittances, shipping earnings, and net transfers from the EU.

many, and Belgium. Per capita income is estimated at $11,305 for 1998, a steady increase from previous years. Greece became an associate member of the EU in 1962 and was elected the tenth full EU member on January 1, 1981. New inflows from the EU reached $4 billion in 1998. These funds from the EU (about $20 billion for the period 1994-1999, and another $30 billion for the period 20002006) will go to projects such as building highway and rail networks, ports, bridges, the Athens and Thessaloniki metros, and the new international airport at Sparta.

Transportation Automobiles

In 1997, imports totaled $25.5 billion and exports $10.9 billion. The EU accounts for about 64% of the Greek import market due to increased infra-EU trade. U.S. exports in 1997 reached $978.3 million, while imports from Greece were $487 million, producing a record $491 million trade surplus. Major Greek exports to the U.S. are textiles and apparel, foodstuffs, iron and steel, construction materials, tobacco, shoes, and petroleum products. The EU remains Greece's major market, absorbing 46.7% of Greek exports. The other European countries and Asia are the second and third largest markets. In 1997, the U.S. absorbed 4.5% of Greek exports.

Automobiles are necessary for trips outside the cities and for commuting from the suburbs. Small cars are most suitable for driving on the narrow Greek roads and city streets. Air conditioning is desirable during hot, dusty, summer months. Traffic moves on the right. To obtai n license plates, you must present a valid international drivers license or a valid Greek license. (Without a valid U.S. license, you may apply for a driving test but this will create considerable delay, and the test is in Greek). A license plate will not be issued to persons presenting only a U.S. drivers license. It is therefore imperative to obtain valid international drivers licenses prior to arrival. AAA offices in the U.S. are a good source for information/ application. The Greek Government requires third-party liability insurance for all motor vehicles. Vehicles cannot be driven prior to purchase of insurance.

Greek labor unions play an important role in determining wages, fringe benefits, and working conditions. Unemployment has dropped from 10.3% in 1997 to 10.1 in 1998 and is projected to decrease in 1999 to 9.8%. Although emigration has dramatically decreased over the last three decades, more than 5 million Greeks are estimated to live abroad, mainly in the U.S., Australia, Ger-

Main streets and highways are paved; secondary roads are rough and ungraded. Most roads are twolane, except for parts of the National Road. The road network is good and constantly being expanded. In response to tourism, road surfaces are improving; however, in some remote areas, be prepared to find unimproved

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Greece conditions. The roads to Belgrade and Sofia are good. The borders b e t w e e n G r e e c e a n d T u r k e y, FYROM, Bulgaria, and Albania are open to private automobiles. Before driving to Greece through FYROM, Bulgaria, or Albania, however, you might want to check with the U.S. Embassy to find out which border crossings you may use. The Athens area now is home for more than 40% of Greece's 10.1 million people. The number of passenger cars in the Greater Athens area has increased dramatically from 111,000 in 1968 to 791,000 in 1989. The total number of vehicles circulating in Athens, including buses, trucks, motorcycles, etc., is more than 1 million. Many Athens streets are narrow and lined with parked cars. Heavy traffic flows in and out of the city from early morning until after midnight are typical. This causes noisy and irritating driving. In an effort to control the pollution problems in Athens, driving is restricted in the central area every day, except Sundays, holidays, and the month of August. Vehicles with license plates ending in an odd number may drive in the restricted area only on odd-numbered days, and those with even numbers may drive only on even-numbered days. Only public transportation, motorcycles, and vehicles with diplomatic license plates are exempt from these restrictions. Because of congestion in the city, shopping trips and commuting can be extremely time-consuming. Commutes of about an hour each way are not uncommon. Athens has a good and inexpensive but very crowded public transportation system consisting of buses, trolleys, and a metro running from Kifissia to Piraeus. Additional metro lines are expected to open between 1999 and 2006. Taxis are inexpensive, but getting one can be frustrating. Cab drivers take more than one passenger or group of passengers and sometimes decline to pick up passengers at all. Radio taxis can be obtained by telephone but often require waits of 30-45 minutes to arrive. Parking is a perennial prob238

Cities of the World lem throughout most of the city and environs, even at supermarkets. Private vehicles are not allowed in the “historical center” of Athens. In the inner city, however, many historical sites, museums, and shops are within walking distance for avid walkers.

Regional Olympic Airways, British Airways, Delta, Air France, Ethiopian Airways, Scandinavian Airlines Syst e m , S w i s s A i r, R o y a l D u t c h Airlines, Sabena, and Lufthansa connect Athens with the Near and Far East, North Africa, and Europe, often with daily flights. Daily service within Greece is available from Athens to Thessaloniki, Alexandroupolis, Kalamata, Kavala, Corfu, Crete, Rhodes, and the other larger islands. Railroad service within Greece is good but not extensive. As a maritime nation, Greece has extensive interisland ferry and hydrofoil service. The main ports serving Athens are Piraeus and Rafina. Except for an occasional cruise ship, no direct ship service is available between Greece and the U.S.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Greek OTE telephone billing is different from that in the U.S. OTE bills cover two-month periods, arrive at least 6 weeks after the end of the billing period, and must be paid within 5 days after the payment expiration date to avoid disconnection. Calls are metered and charged per unit. Long-distance calls are metered and charges vary according to distance. A call to the U.S. costs about 75¢ plus 18% tax per minute. Residents of most Athens suburbs can request both touchtone service and itemized billing. However, certain residential pockets still rely on rotary dialing and metered long-distance service. Direct-dial calls to the US. can be made by dialing the prefix 001 followed by the area code and the local U.S. number. Direct-dial calls may also be made to European countries and some nearby Middle Eastern

countries. Long-distance calls, collect calls, person-to-person calls, or credit-card calls may be made through the OTE operator by dialing 161. Public telephones are located at many newspaper kiosks. Local calls may be made for 7¢. Also, card phones are available throughout Greece. Cellular phone use has proliferated throughout Greece. While somewhat expensive, there are a number of reliable networks to choose from. U.S. cellular phones are not compatible with the Greek telephone system. Internet providers are plentiful in Greece. Typical subscription fees average $25 per month plus separate telephone charges from OTE for the local connection.

Radio and TV Reception in Athens is good, with most programs broadcast in Greek. H o w e ve r, m a jo r n e t w o r k s r u n recent U.S. movies and sitcoms in English, with Greek subtitles. AFRTS television service is available in private residences for a mini m a l f e e. E W S A m a n a g e s t h e distribution of the AFRTS decoders. Television reception can be augmented by erecting a satellite dish and subscribing to various pay for view satellite services. Unfortunately, Greece is located beyond the southern edge of SKY and other popular European satellite broadc a s t s, though CNN and EURONEWS are available. Greece has many English language programs on radio standard broadcast, and local stations offer a variety of good musical programs, both classical and modern. VOA broadcasts by shortwave in Greek and in English, and London BBC can be received on short-wave radios. Daily news is broadcast in English on several Greek radio stations. Greek TV has about 10 channels. All channels broadcast in color using the European PAL/SECAM system. U.S. standard televisions will not receive this signal. Purchase of a multi-format, adjustable voltage television set and VCR,

Greece

Cities of the World available from AAFES or locally, which includes NTSC, PAL, and SECAM, is highly recommended. Video movies are popular in Greece. The EWSA rents videos in VHS NTSC. Numerous local clubs rent videos in VHS PAL/SECAM format at modest prices. U.S. standard TVs brought to Greece can be used with VCRs and computer games only from the U.S., without modification.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Newspapers, including the daily English language Athens News, on newsstands every morning but Monday, cover international and local news and contain information on current cultural events in Greece, as well as cinema and TV s c h e d u l e s. T h e A t h e n s N e w s Agency publishes a daily bulletin in English. The International Herald Tribune publishes an English-language insert, a condensed version of Kathemerini, which is available everyday except Sunday. Store the next working day after publication. The International Herald Tribune is now available six mornings a week, while airmail editions of other English- and foreign-language newspapers arrive a day late. Also available are a multitude of foreign magazines such as Paris Match and Oggi, (Italian). Locally published English language magazines, such as The Athenian (monthly), Business and Finance (weekly), Greece's Weekly, and 30 Days (monthly) are available by subscription or at newsstands. The Athenian covers what is happening in Athens and contains informative articles on all aspects of historic and contemporary Greece. Kiosks all over Athens offer a wide assortment of current events listings, technical and women's magazines, children's comic books, and paperbacks. International editions of Time and Newsweek arrive promptly; other American magazines arrive 3-4 weeks late.

are almost double what you would pay in the U.S. Athens has a number of first-rate movie theaters which show recent U.S. and foreign films. Open-air theaters are a popular summer venue for movie lovers.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Medical Facilities are good. For specialized care, Athens has several g e n e r a l h o s p i t a ls a n d cl in i c s, including separate pediatric and maternity hospitals. The level of care at these facilities is good, with the only weakness being the level of nursing/support-type care. Most hospitals are equipped with modern diagnostic equipment and trained technicians. Therefore, emergency and most routine surgery, as well as general hospitalizations, can be handled at local facilities. If an individual requires medical evacuation for further treatment, the evacuation points for all posts within Greece are London and Germany. Routine dental care is available throughout Greece. In Athens, pediodontic and orthodontic care is available from American or Greek dentists or orthodontists, with a few who have received their training in the U.S. Athens has oral surgeons, if needed. If possible, individuals with corrective lenses should have extras made in the U.S. before arrival in Greece. Local opticians can fill optical prescriptions, however, and some local ophthalmologists have extensive experience with contact lenses. Additionally, bring sunglasses for sun-drenched Greece. In Greece, few facilities are available for handicapped individuals, and those that do exist are not up to Western standards. Some hospitals and other medical institutions are equipped for wheelchairs.

The sanitation practices in the cities are good, unless a public works strike occurs; trash can sometimes accumulate up to a week at a time. In Athens and its suburbs, the garbage is collected 3-7 days a week, depending on the area. Local sewage drainage and treatment are adequate. The water in most cities throughout Greece is potable, but use a fluoride supplement for children up to age 13. When visiting small villages and the islands, however, consume bottled water, as the water source may be limited and not well treated. Insects and vermin pose no particular problems, but mosquitoes, garden pests, and ants can be annoying. The major endemic, communicable diseases of concern to Americans are respiratory infections, which are caused by high levels of pollution present in Athens at periods of time throughout the year. Therefore, individuals with chronic respiratory disorders such as severe allergies, asthma, and emphysema may experience difficulty breathing during heavy pollution periods. Otherwise, no unusual health risks are involved in living in Greece. Traffic accidents can be a cause of injury, both in Athens and outside of major cities. Defensive driving and wearing seat belts are crucial.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties

Community Health In the streets near Syntagma Square, several bookstores carry a good selection of English-language books on all subjects, including the latest bestsellers. Prices, however,

than that in the U.S., most local restaurants and taverns are safe and good places to eat. The local fruits and vegetables are excellent and do not require any special preparation beyond cooking and cleaning. Most meats can be procured locally and are safe. Pasteurized milk in Athens is safe for consumption.

The level of community health is c o n s i d e r e d h i g h i n A t h e n s. Although the enforcement of regulations concerning the storage and sale of foods and drugs is less strict

A passport is required but no visa is needed for tourist or business stays of up to three months. An AIDS test is required for performing artists and students on Greek government scholarships; U.S. test results are 239

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not accepted. For other entry questions, travelers should contact the Embassy of Greece at 2221 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20008, telephone (202) 9395800, or Greek consulates in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New Orleans, New York, and San Francisco, and Greek embassies and consulates around the world. Additional information is available at http:// www.greekembassy.org. T r av e l e r s m ay b e r e q u i r e d t o declare U.S. dollars and travelers checks to customs officials on arrival. Importing dollars and dollar instruments is not restricted. Sporting and camping equipment and furs are registered in the owner's passport and must be reexported. Drugs and narcotics may not be imported under any circumstances. Americans living in or visiting Greece are encouraged to register at the consular section of the U.S. Embassy/Consulate General and to obtain updated information on travel and security in Greece. The U.S. Embassy in Athens is located at 91 Vasilissis Sophias Boulevard, tel: (30)(1) 721-2951. The U.S. Consulate General in Thessaloniki is located at Plateia Commercial Center, 43 Tsimiski Street, 7th floor, tel: (30)(31) 242-905. The Embassy's website is http://www.usisathens.gr. The e-mail address for the consular section is [email protected]. The email address for the U.S. Consulate General Thessaloniki is [email protected].

Pets In compliance with World Health Organization (WHO) requirements, pets (dogs and cats) entering or departing Greece must have a health certificate stating that the pet is in good health, free from infectious disease, and has had a rabies inoculation not more than 12 months (for cats 6 months) and not less than 6 days before arrival or departure. The certificate must be validated by the appropriate medical authority in the country, where travel begins. In the U.S., validation 240

is performed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (DOA). In Washington, D.C., take the papers to the Greek Consulate for validation. Parrots may not be imported, unless they are coming from a country free from psittacosis, in which case no more than two may be imported and must have the same health certification as for dogs and cats. Greece has few boarding kennels available. Those available are not of Western standards, and bookings must be made in advance.

Firearms and Ammunition Greek law prohibits importation of rifles and handguns of any kind. Shotguns of any gauge and air rifles may be imported. Shotguns may be imported by the owner only. The shotgun is written on his/her passport, then, the owner must go to the Greek Forestry Department to submit the proper papers for the issuance of the gun's ID.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the Greek monetary unit is the Euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 Euro. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 5 0 0 e u r os. T h e e x ch a n g e r a t e approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US. The value-added tax (VAT) was first implemented in Greece on January 1,1987, in accordance with the European Economic Community requirements, and replaced previous indirect taxes. Today, income from VAT totals 50% of indirect taxes and 35% of total state revenues. VAT ranges from 8% percent on mass consumption goods, e.g., food, to 18% imposed on most goods and services, and 36% for all luxury goods, such as tobacco products, alcohol, cosmetics (some foodstuffs fall under this percentage) Greece uses the metric system of weights and measures. Gasoline is sold by the litre.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan.6 . . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Feb/Mar. . . . . . . . . Clean Monday (beginning of Lent)* Mar. 7 . . . . . . . . . . Dodecanese Accession Day (observed in Rhodes only) Apr/May . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Holy Saturday* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . May Day May/June . . . . . . . Pentecost* May/June . . . . . . . Holy Ghost Day/ Penetecost Monday Aug 15. . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Sept. 13 . . . . . . . . . Finding of the True Cross Oct. 4. . . . . . . . . . . Liberation of Xanthi (observed in Xanthi only) Oct. 25. . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Oct. 26. . . . . . . . . . St. Dimitrios Day (observed in Thessaloniki only) Oct. 28. . . . . . . . . . Ohi Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Antiquities Biers, William R. The Archaeology of Greece: An Introduction. Cornell University, 1980. Grinnel, Isabel H. Hellas; A Portrait of Greece. Efstathiadis, 1987. (out of print) Kitto, Humphrey. The Greeks. Penguin, 1951.

Greece

Cities of the World MacKendrick, Paul. The Greek Stones Speak: The Stones of Archaeology in Greek Lands. Norton, 1983. Ruck, Carl. Ancient Greece: A New Approach. M.I.T. Press, 1972.

Art Andronikos, Manolis. Greek Museums. Caratzas Bros., 1975. Avery, Catherine B. The New Century Handbook of Greek Art and Architecture. Appleton, 1972. (out of print) Broadman, John. Greek Art. Oxford, 1985. Matthew, Gervase. Byzantine Aesthetics. (Icon Edition Series), Harper and Row, 1971. (out of print)

Fodor, Eugene, ed. Fodor's Greece 1991. McKay, 1990. Miller, Henry. Colossus of Maroussi. New Directions. History, Politics, and Government. Alexander, G.M. The Prelude to the Truman Doctrine: British Policy in Greece, 1944-47. Oxford University Press, 1983. Couloumbis, T.A. et.al. Foreign Interference in Greek Politics: An Historical Perspective. Pella, 1976. Couloumbis Theodore and John O. Iatrides, editors. Greek American Relations: A Critical Review. (out of print). Clogg, Richard A. A Short History of Modern Greece. Cambridge University Press, 1979.

Pollitt, Jerry J. Art and Experience in Classical Greece. Cambridge University Press, 1972.

Gage, Nicholas. Eleni: A True Story of Love, War and Survival. Random, 1983.

Pollitt, Jerry J. Art in the Hellenistic Age. Cambridge University Press, 1986.

Hamilton, Edith. The Greek Way. Avon, 1973.

Woodford, Susan. An Introduction to Greek Art. Cornell University Press, 1986.

Iatrides, John, ed. Ambassador MacVeagh Reports: Greece, 1933 to 1947. Princeton, 1980. Koumoulidis, Johm. Greece in Transition. State Mutual Books, 1977.

can Muse: A Collection of Philhellenic Poetry 1821-1828. Coronet Books, 1972. Toynbee, Arnold. The Greeks and Their Heritages. Oxford, 1981. Woodhouse, C.M. Modern Greece: A Short History. Faber and Faber, 1977. Woodhouse, C.M. The Rise and Fall of the Greek Colonels. Watts, 1985.

Literature and Poetry Avery, Catherine B. Handbook of Greek Literature. Appleton, 1972. (out of print). Hadas, Moses. A History of Greek Literature. Columbia University, 1950. Keeley, Edmund and P.A. Bien. Modern Greek Writers. Princeton University Press, 1972. Sherrard, Phillip. The Wound of Greece: Studies in New-Hellenism. St. Martin, 1979. (out of print). Trypanis, Constantine. Greek Poetry from Homer to Seferis. University of Chicago, 1982.

Legg, Keith R. Politics in Modern Greece. Stanford, 1969.

Trypanis, Constantine. Penguin Book of Greek Verse. Penguin, 1971. (out of print)

D u rr e l l , L aw r e n c e. The Gr e e k Islands. Penguin, 1980.

McNeil, William. The Metamorphosis of Greece Since World War II. University of Chicago, 1978.

Buckert, Walter. Greek Religion. Harvard University Press, 1987.

Ellingham, Mark. A Rough Guide to Greece. Routledge, 1982.

Raizis, Byron M. and Papas, A. Greek Revolution and the Ameri-

Wa r e, T i m o t h y. Th e O r t h o d o x Church. Penguin, 1963.

Description and Travel Antony, Anne. Greece: Hut and Highrise. Constantinidis and Michalo, 1971. (out of print)

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Budapest, Hungary

HUNGARY Republic of Hungary

Major Cities: Budapest, Debrecen, Miskolc, Szeged, Pécs, Gyor Other Cities: Ajka, Baja, Eger, Hajdúböszörmény, Kaposvár, Kecskemét, Makó, Nyíregyháza, Sopron, Székesfehérvár, Szombathely, Veszprém

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated August 1996. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Budapest, the capital city of Hungary located on the Danube River, is one of the most beautiful cities of Europe. An assignment here can be rewarding and highly enjoyable. Since the major political changes here in 1990, the challenges of living in Hungary have been greatly diminished; all who live or visit here can easily partake in the countless affordable opportunities presented in Hungary for working, learning, and enjoying life. Because of Hungary’s location, travel to other European destinations is relatively trouble-free. The city of Budapest is split by the Danube, with the hilly, wooded section of Buda on the west bank and Pest, the flat, more urban side, on the east. It is a city growing

with the 20th century, yet retaining its Old World charm and rich sense of tradition, culture, and history.

MAJOR CITIES Budapest Budapest, the capital and principal city of Hungary, is a combination of three originally distinct cities: Buda on the western bank of the Danube River, Pest on the eastern bank, and Obuda, located north of present day Buda. The three are now linked by nine bridges across the Danube. Des pit e h eav y da ma ge dur i ng World War II and the Hungarian Revolution of 1956, Budapest has been rebuilt into one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Much of the city, particularly Pest, has a decidedly 19th century look. Buda, built on rolling hills rising to 1,700 feet, contains many attractive residential sections and wooded areas. Pest, built on level ground, is the business center of the capital. Obuda, located north of Buda, is the fastest growing area of the city. The greater city population is 1.9 million.

Food Fresh fruit and vegetables (in season), meat and poultry are available in local markets year round, but the variety is limited during winter and early spring. The variety of fresh and frozen fish is limited throughout the year. Large and small shops stock canned and frozen produce, breads, dairy products, pasta, and cleaning and personal hygiene supplies. Such items are not available everywhere and at all times, so shopping can be an adventure. However, there are several large Western-style grocery stores that carry a wide variety of food and household items. Fresh milk is pasteurized and safe to drink, but tends to have a short shelf life. Long-life milk is widely available and is stocked in the commissary. All fruits and vegetables are safe to consume. Local food prices are slightly lower than in the Washington, D.C. area, but imported items are more expensive.

Clothing Dress in Hungary is similar to that in Washington, D.C. Cold weather clothing is an absolute necessity. Also, the spring season can be raw and rainy. The summer season stretches from late May through August, with temperatures ranging from 70°F through the 90’s. Rain apparel, warm winter boots, and 243

Hungary walking shoes are necessary, as well. It is advisable to bring shoes and boots from the U.S. These are available locally, but proper fit can be hard to find. Comfort is important for Budapest’s rough and often uneven streets. Thin- soled shoes are not recommended, as streets are often in poor condition.

Men: Men’s ready-made Hungarian-made suits are sometimes less than satisfactory in material and style; although imported clothing is of higher quality, it tends to be quite expensive. Hats are not generally worn, except in cold or rainy weather.

Women: Women’s suits and knitwear are practical and often worn to work, daytime affairs. Pants, dressy and sport, are worn by everyone, including Hungarians. Children: Bring a supply of children’s clothes. Baby supplies are available locally, but usually at higher cost and lesser quality. Good quality clothing can also be found in Vienna, but prices are much higher than those in the U.S.

Supplies and Services Services: A few excellent men’s tailors are located in Budapest. Good dressmakers are also available at reasonable prices. Alterations are satisfactory. Zippers, buttons, thread and accessories are available. Shoe repair is inexpensive, and a number of shops have opened in convenient locations. Dry-cleaning is reasonably priced and satisfactory. Good salons are abundant, and the work is excellent. Beauticians use local supplies; hotel shops have more modern equipment, and more English language speakers, but rates are higher. Manicures are inexpensive, as are facials, massages and waxing. All local salons cut men’s hair. A few shops cater especially to children. 244

Cities of the World Auto repair is available for most vehicles. Parts for some American cars may be difficult to obtain in Hungary.

Religious Activities Religion can be practiced in total freedom in Hungary. Budapest has many Catholic churches, the most well known being the Matyas Templom (Matthias Church) in the Var. Several synagogues and places of worship for a variety of religions exist, such as Lutheran, Reformed, Calvinist, Baptist, and Seventh Day Adventist. These services are in Hungarian. However, there are a number of weekly English language services in Budapest, including Anglican, Presbyterian, Baptist, Catholic, and Nondenominational Evangelical.

Education There are a number of educational opportunities for children in Budapest. The most popular is the American International School of Budapest (AISB). There are other schools, as well, including a Britishrun elementary school, a Christian school, and other English-language schools. The AISB is the only American-accredited school in Budapest. The American International School of Budapest, which offers instruction for kindergarten through high school, was founded in 1973. Since then, it has undergone tremendous growth. The lower school, which i n cl u d e s g r a d e s k i n d e r g a r t e n through five, is located in the Buda hills next to the American Club. The upper school, which includes grades six through twelve, is located further up the hill, and is situated in the confines of a natural recreation preserve. Special features of the lower school campus include a large indoor swimming pool, full gymnasium, separate kindergarten playground, tennis court, sports field, theater, and computer lab. Children must be 5 years old by September 1 of the year of entrance in order to be eligible for enrollment in kindergarten. Please note that there is NO exception to this age

requirement rule. Kindergarten classes run the entire school day.

Sports Budapest has a wide variety of recreational facilities. The American Club has its own indoor basketball/ volleyball court, a platform tennis court, and a full-size swimming pool. The clubhouse contains a bar area, television with satellite hookup with Armed Forces Network, dartboard, and ping-pong table. Aerobics classes are held in the gym twice a week, and are open to American Club members. Nonmembers pay a small fee. Softball, popular among many Westerners, is played on Margit Island from spring through fall, with games open to all who care to play. Outdoor sports activities in Budapest during the winter months include jogging, skiing, horseback riding, skating, sledding, and platform tennis. A small ski area in the Buda hills, snow permitting, offers skiers a short run.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Many pleasant excursions can be made within the city of Budapest and the surrounding area, by car or public transportation. The hills of Buda provide numerous attractive areas for pleasant weekend walks and picnics. Szentendre, an artists’ colony located on the Danube north of Budapest, and Esztergom, the seat of the presiding Bishop of the Catholic Church in Hungary, are worthwhile nearby visiting places and can be reached in less than an hour from the city. Further away from the city, Lake Balaton, the summer retreat for a great part of Budapest’s population, offers swimming, windsurfing and sailing. The major Balaton resorts of Balatonfured, Siofok, and Tihany are about 90 minutes from Budapest by car, and all offer adequate hotel facilities at international prices. In addition, cottages are available for rent throughout the Balaton region.

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Cities of the World Other interesting points in the countryside are the attractive city of Eger, which has traditionally been the center of the Catholic Church in Hungary. A well-preserved minaret located in Eger is one of the most visible reminders of the century and a half of Turkish rule here during the 16th and 17th centuries. In addition, Eger is an important center of the Hungarian wine industry, and wine cellars outside the city are open to visitors. The countryside north of Eger is somewhat similar to the terrain found in the U.S. Appalachian Mountains in the vicinity of Washington, D.C., and provides some scenic contrast to the flat plain that accounts for the largest percentage of the Hungarian countryside. Eastern Hungary contains the plain of the well-known Hungarian Puszta, where one is able to see for miles in any direction. At Hortobagy, in the middle of the Puszta, visitors can see displays of traditional horsemanship performed by costumed csikos (cowboys) and view the unique gray longhorn breed of Hungarian cattle, which have vanished from the landscape elsewhere. An overnight stay at the 250-yearold Hortobagy Inn, which offers charming deluxe accommodations, can be most enjoyable. Half an hour east of Hortobagy lies Debrecen, the largest city in Eastern Hungary and the center of Hungarian Protestantism. Debrecen’s Protestant College, one of Hungary’s oldest learning institutions, is exceptionally interesting. It is noteworthy that Debrecen was the seat of the provisional government during the revolution against Austrian rule in 1848. Other interesting provincial cities include Szeged and Gyula, both of which host annual summer festivals; Kecskemet, which lies in the heart of the country’s fruit growing region an hour from Budapest; Pecs, where two Turkish mosques remain and which enjoys an exceptional ballet company; Sopron, with its medieval walled city center; and Sarospatak, seat of the Reformed College, with a remarkable library

and cloister, which has been converted to a good restaurant. In Budapest, Margit Island, the central city park, Varosliget, and a number of smaller parks offer greenery and play areas for children. The Varosliget also contains a city zoo, an ice skating rink for winter skating (boating in summer), an amusement park, a weekend flea market, and a circus. A number of first-rate museums of old and modern art, several of oriental art, and of Hungarian folklore are located in Budapest. The Szechenyi Library contains old Hungarian publications and manuscripts.

Entertainment Budapest’s cultural life is rich with opera, symphonies, chamber music, ballet, theater, and nightclubs. There is a wide range of operas and b a l l e t s r u n n i n g c o n c u r r e n t l y. Operas are well staged and directed with a wide repertoire of German, Italian, Russian, and Hungarian works. Most are performed in Hungarian. A number of foreign and Hungarian guest stars appear in Budapest during the opera season. The Operetta Theater specializes in light musicals. Budapest offers numerous concerts by symphonies and chamber groups. Stage plays are performed in over a dozen theaters. Although translated into Hungarian, many western and American musicals and plays are performed, including works by Albee, O’Neill, Williams, Miller, and Weber. The Duna Players, a fledgling amateur group of English speaking expatriates, presents plays periodically. More than 100 cinemas in Budapest feature films from all over the world, including many recent American films. Most theaters show films in their original language with Hungarian subtitles, and there are many films shown in English. Folklore programs by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble and other leading groups are presented at the Folklore Center and other venues throughout the year. Budapest is

also well known for its culinary opportunities; it boasts a wonderful variety of international cuisine. Many Hungarian restaurants feature live Gypsy music. In the spring, Budapest hosts the annual Spring Festival, a monthlong performing arts extravaganza. During the summer, performances of operas, ballets, concerts, and folklore programs are staged in the outdoor theater on Margit Island, at t h e B u d a C a s t l e, t h e K i s c e l l i Museum, and some of the smaller cities in Hungary. A music festival is held each summer in the city of Szeged. Youth concerts by various internationally-known popular music groups are offered throughout the year. You may take pictures in Hungary, provided they are not of a military nature. Areas are marked where photography is forbidden.

Social Activities Among Americans: Entertaining is informal. The new joint ventures opening in Hungary have brought a large number of American private business people to Budapest. Other American residents of Budapest include Peace Corps volunteers, Fulbright scholars, students, and retirees. The American Club of Budapest, located in the Buda hills on the AISB grounds, provides an excellent opportunity to meet Americans and people of other nationalities. A restaurant and bar operate on the premises. Club members enjoy numerous special activities, including Thursday night family dinners, volleyball, basketball, tennis, and other sporting and social events. Many of these events celebrate children’s holidays. The Club can also be rented for private parties. Membership in the American Club is open to individuals of all nationalities.

International Contacts: B u d a pest is home to a large and active international community. The International Women’s Club is open to all foreign women in Budapest. 245

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Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

Bridge over the Danube River in Budapest

The American Women’s Association, with membership open to all women from North America, meets monthly and sponsors numerous events. Budapest boasts a chapter of the “Hash House Harriers,” who enjoy a biweekly run and meal following. The Harriers are popular worldwide, and the Budapest group attracts many diplomats, business people, and other Westerners. The Budapest Platform Tennis Association also promotes the enjoyment of the sport of platform tennis for the international community. A platform tennis court is located adjacent to the AISB and American Club. Several tournaments are held during the season, with some highly competitive matches.

Debrecen Debrecen is located in eastern Hungary, 20 miles west of the Romanian border and 120 miles east of Budap246

est. With a population of 208,000, Debrecen is the country’s second largest city, as well as the economic and cultural center of the Great Plain (Alföld) region east of the Tisza River. Industrially, the city produces railway cars, agricultural machinery, medical instruments, pharmaceuticals, furniture, and processed foods. Traditionally, Debrecen is known for its fairs and livestock markets. Historically, Debrecen grew from a cattle and grain market in the 13th century to a stronghold of Hungarian Protestantism in the 16th century. From the 16th through the 17th century, the city was occupied by the Turks, enjoying semi-autonomous status and often serving as a refuge for peasants fleeing the Turks. Debrecen was also an important trade center before the late 17th century wars ruined the city’s economy. The city was the center of Hungarian resistance against Austrian rule in the 19th century, and

on April 14, 1849, Hungary’s independence was proclaimed from the church in Debrecen’s center.

Miskolc Miskolc, Hungary’s third largest city with a population of 178,000, is located 90 miles northeast of Budapest on the Sajó River. A major industrial center, Miskolc has large iron and steel mills, machinery and motor vehicle factories, and lime and cement works. Iron ore and lignite mines are located nearby. Wine is also produced locally, and the region’s numerous caves are used as wine cellars. Miskolc is the seat of a Protestant bishopric and the site of a law school and a technical university. Historically, Miskolc was frequently invaded by Mongols, Turks, and Germans, and was nearly destroyed by the Mongols in the mid-13th century. Industrialization began late in the 19th century.

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Cities of the World Landmarks here include the 15th century Avas Reformed Church, the remains of a 13th-century castle, and a museum displaying Scythian art. Mezokövesd, 20 miles southwest of Miskolc, is a city of about 19,000 noted for the embroidery produced there. Polgár, 20 miles southeast of Miskolc, has a population over 12,000; Ózd, 25 miles northwest of Miskolc, has 42,000 residents.

Szeged Szeged, in southern Hungary near the Serbian border, is 95 miles south of Budapest at the confluence of the Tisza and Maros Rivers. A river port, railroad hub, and agricultural center, Szeged has a population of 166,000. Among the city’s industries are food processing, flour milling, boat building, and textile production. The chief city of southern Hungary is also a principal tourist spot known for its attractive parks and squares. An annual festival of drama and music is held in Szeged. The seat of a Roman Catholic bishopric, Szeged has a university, established in 1921, a medical school, and a library. The early history of Szeged saw the city as a military stronghold and trade center of the Arpad kings in the 10th century; it was ruled by the Turks from 1542 to 1686. Partly destroyed by a flood in 1879, Szeged was rebuilt in modern style. It retains a 13th-century Romanesque tower and a 16th-century church. Hódmezovásárhely, 15 miles north of Szeged, with a population of 49,000, produces textiles. Békéscsaba, 60 miles northeast of Szeged, produces textiles and processes food; the population is 69,000. Kiskunfelgyháza, 40 miles north of Szeged, is a market center for livestock, tobacco, fruit, and wine, with a population of 33,000.

Pécs Pécs is situated in southwest Hungary at the confluence of the Danube and Drava Rivers, 105 miles southwest of Budapest near the Croatian border. An industrial center in Hungary’s chief coal-producing region, the city produces coke, metals, agricultural machinery, tobacco, and leather goods. There are also several vineyards in the surrounding region. Pécs is also known for its pottery. One of Hungary’s oldest cities, Pécs was the site of a Celtic settlement and was later the capital of the Roman province of Lower Pannonia. By 1009, Pécs was an episcopal see, and in 1367, the first Hungarian university was established there. The Turks ruled Pécs from 1543 to 1686. German miners and colonists settled there in the 18th century and in 1780, Pécs became a free city. Historic landmarks include an 11thcentury cathedral (rebuilt in the late 19th century), an episcopal palace, a Turkish minaret, and several churches that were formerly mosques. The current population of Pécs is 161,000.

Gyor Gyor is located in northwest Hungary, 65 miles west of Budapest near the Czechoslovak border. Situated at the confluence of the Raba and Danube Rivers, Gyor is a road and rail hub, a river port, and a leading industrial city and one of the fastest growing cities in western Hungary. With a current population of just over 127,000, the city is known for its textile and distilling plants, flour mills, and engineering works. Its location midway between Budapest and Vienna makes Gyor an important communications point. Originally, the site of Gyor was a Roman military outpost called Arabona that was evacuated in the fourth century and later destroyed. Fortifications were built by the

Magyars in the same area in the ninth century. Gyor was established around the fortress, which was later used as a defensive position against the Turks in the 17th century. Hungarian forces were defeated by the Austrians near Gyor in 1849. Historic landmarks include a 12thcentury cathedral, an episcopal palace, and several impressive monuments. The baroque houses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, the stately squares, and narrow, winding streets give Gyor an Old World charm. The town of Mosonmagyaróvár, with a population of 31,000 is 22 miles northwest of Gyor. Pápa is 25 miles south of Gyor, with a population of 35,000. It produces tobacco products, textiles, and farm trucks, and is the site of an 18th-century castle.

OTHER CITIES AJKA lies in the Csinger Valley in west-central Hungary, 15 miles west of Veszprém. It began as a small coal-mining village in the late 19th century. Major growth in the mid-20th century was the result of bauxite exploitation of a deposit said to be Europe’s largest. Currently, the city has food-processing facilities, an aluminum furnace, and a telecommunications parts factory. Ajka’s population exceeds 35,000. BAJA is situated in south-central Hungary, less than 40 miles northeast of Pécs. With a population of 40,000, it is a market center for livestock and agricultural produce. Baja is also a river port that manufactures chemicals, furniture, and farm machinery. There are a number of baroque churches and old houses in the city. EGER, a town of 62,000, is located in north-central Hungary, 25 miles southwest of Miskolc. The modern city is known for its orchards and vineyards and the resulting wine and brandy. Tourists may visit the town’s wine cellars. Historically, 247

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Cities of the World battles between the Hungarians and the Turks in the 16th and 17th centuries. KECSKEMÉT, 50 miles north of Szeged, is a market center for an agricultural, fruit-growing, and livestock-raising region. With a population of 105,000, the city is also known for its leatherwork. MAKÓ is 15 miles east of Szeged near the Romanian border on the Muresul River. A market town in an agricultural and livestock-raising region, Makó was the birthplace of the American journalist, Joseph Pulitzer (1847-1911). The current population is 26,000. NYÍREGYHÁZA is 30 miles north of Debrecen in northeast Hungary. The city was completely destroyed during the 16th-century occupation of Hungary and rebuilt in the 18th century. Today, Nyíregyháza is a road and rail center and a market for an extensive agricultural region which grows vegetables, tobacco, and potatoes. The city has museums that contain gold relics. The current population is 113,000.

Street in Debrecen, Hungary

Eger gained fame in the 16th century when its small garrison held back a Turkish force of 150,000. It took the Turks more than 40 years to finally capture the fort, which they then held between 1596 and 1687. Ruins of the old fort still remain, as well as other historical buildings including an 18th-century county hall and a palace, which houses a county library. HAJDÚBÖSZÖRMÉNY, about 20 miles northwest of Debrecen, has a population of 31,000 and a 16th-century church. Hajdúszoboszló, with a population of 22,000, is a health resort 13 miles southwest of Debrecen. Balmazújváros, a commune 248

© Paul Almasy/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

just west of Debrecen, has a population over 18,000; and Püspökladány, 30 miles southwest, has a population over 16,000. KAPOSVÁR is 25 miles northwest of Pécs and 30 miles south of Lake Balaton. With a population of 71,000, Kaposvár is the market center in a livestock-raising region. Nagykanizsa, 65 miles northwest of Pécs, was held by the Turks from 1600 through 1690. Oil and natural gas wells are near the city, which has a current population of 55,000. Mohács, 20 miles southeast of Pécs on the Danube River, is a commercial center with a population of 20,000. The city was the site of two

SOPRON, 50 miles west of Gyor near the Austrian border, has a population of 55,000. The only part of Burgenland that remained in Hungary after the rest of the province transferred to Austria in 1922, Sopron produces wine, sugar, and textiles, and has a medieval church. A former Roman outpost, Sopron today is still surrounded by much of the old garrison. SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR, 40 miles southwest of Budapest, is a busy industrial town and market center for fruit and wine. It is best known, however, as the coronation and burial site of Hungarian kings. The patron saint and first king of Hungary—Stephen—is buried here. The Turks destroyed many of the medieval monuments during their 150year domination of the city, but there are outstanding buildings from more recent times. Székesfehérvár’s present population is 107,000.

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Cities of the World SZOMBATHELY is 60 miles southwest of Gyor near the Austrian border. A commercial center in a rich wine-producing region, Szombathely’s population is 87,000. The site of a cathedral and an episcopal palace, the city was taken in World War II by the Soviets on March 29, 1945. Named in honor of the Polish prince Bezbriem, the city of VESZPRÉM is nestled between the Bakony Mountains in western Hungary. It is located 60 miles southwest of the capital on the Séd River. Notable landmarks include the street of a n c i e n t h o u s e s, t h e b a r o q u e bishop’s palace (1765-1776), the fortress with its Heroes’ Gate, the Cathedral of St. Michael, and the Gizella Chapel with valuable frescoes from the 13th century. Industries include the manufacture of textiles, vegetable oil, and wine. Ve szpré m’s popu lation is over 70,000. The Veszprém University of Chemical Engineering opened in 1949.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Hungary is a landlocked country, 36,000 square miles in area. It is bounded by Slovakia on the north, Ukraine and Romania on the east, Slovenia, Croatia, and Serbia on the south, and Austria on the west. Some parts of Hungary are flat, but other sections offer pleasant scenery, such as the Matra Mountains in the north and the area around Lake Balaton, central Europe’s largest lake. Budapest’s climate is temperate. Winters, although damp and cold, are generally less severe than in Washington, D.C. Snow may fall from late November through February, but generally disappears on the Pest side after 3 or 4 days. In the hills of Buda, small amounts of snow may remain on the ground for

weeks. January, the coldest month, has an average temperature of 31°F. During the winter, the minimum daily temperature is generally below freezing. The July mean temperature is 71°F. The occasional periods of hot, dry weather are easier to tolerate than Washington’s humidity. Temperatures are somewhat lower on the Buda side of the city. The yearly average precipitation is 25.2 inches.

Population Of Hungary’s 10.1 million people, 2.9 million reside in the capital city of Budapest. Hungary is the most densely populated country in eastcentral Europe, and trends indicate a steady urbanization. The ethnic composition is 89.9 percent Hungarian, 2.6 percent German, 4 percent Gypsy, 1 percent Slovak, .8 percent Southern Slavs, and .7 percent Romanian. Roman Catholics account for 67.5 percent of the population. Calvinists and Lutherans make up 20 percent and 5 percent, respectively. All major churches receive limited financial aid. Religion can be practiced in total freedom.

Political Setting Hungary is a young democracy. For 40 years prior to 1989, the Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party Central Committee and Politburo established all policy. In 1989, round table discussions commenced between the reform- oriented communist government and the political opposition. A democratic republic was established in October. Hungary has a functioning multiparty democracy, with all parties represented in Parliament committed to free market democracy and stability. The center-right coalition government headed by the Hungarian Democratic Forum, which led the country since Hungary’s first free elections in 1990, was voted out in the May, 1994 parliamentary elections. The Hungarian Socialist Party and the Alliance by Free

Democrats formed a new government as a result of the elections. Hungarian foreign and domestic policies have not changed dramatically as a result of the change in government. According to the Constitution, the 386-seat Parliament is the supreme organ of state power. It has the authority to propose, review, adopt or reject all legislation, and can override presidential vetoes. A political party must receive at least five percent of all votes to gain representation in Parliament. The Government consists of the Prime Minister, currently Viktor Orbán, who is elected by a majority of the members of Parliament, and a Council of Ministers. The Ministers are appointed by the President of the Republic, currently Ferenc Mádal, upon the Prime Minister’s recommendation. The Prime Minister chairs the Council of Ministers and is the government’s chief executive official. The President, elected separately by the Parliament to an independent five-year term, is the Head of State. The President has limited, largely ceremonial powers, but his role in promulgating laws gives him the ability to return legislation to Parliament for further debate or to forward it to the Constitutional Court if he deems any of its provisions unconstitutional. The President also appoints the commander of the armed forces and approves the nation’s defense plan. The Constitutional Court decides the constitutionality of legislation, and a separate Hungarian Supreme Court adjudicates appeals from lower courts.

Arts, Science and Education Hungary has enjoyed a long and rich cultural tradition that has produced important leaders and innovators in the fields of music and s c ie n c e. A m o n g th e m o st w e l l known are Ferenc Liszt, Bela Bartok, Zoltan Kodaly, Edward Teller, and Nobel Prize winner Albert Szent-Gyorgy, a participant in the 249

Hungary U.S. delegation that returned the Crown of St. Stephen to Hungary in 1978. Hungarian cultural life has also produced a number of outstanding writers and poets, such as Gyula Illyes and Endre Ady. Although translation of Hungarian works is increasing, it is a slow process that produces only a few works over a long period of time; this continues to hinder Hungary’s rise in international literary eminence. Budapest is the center of Hungary’s cultural life. It has a large number of permanent theaters, as well as open air stages that offer performances in the summer. Performances of excellent opera productions, ballets and concerts, often featuring foreign artists, are held at both the State Opera House and the Erkel Opera Theater. The city’s highly rated symphonies, chamber groups, and soloists perform at the Academy of Music in the winter and on Margit Island in the summer. Budapest Music Weeks, arranged each year in the spring and fall, and the Liszt-Bartok Piano Competition, held every third year, are internationally known. The Hungarian State Folk Ensemble and the Budapest Ballet perform regularly during the winter season. The Budapest Festival Orchestra, a newly organized ensemble of polished younger musicians, now presents excellent programs throughout the year. Hungarian filmmaking has achieved a high level of sophistication. A number of Hungarian films and directors have received international recognition, including Istvan Szabo, who received an Oscar for “Mephisto” in 1982. Budapest has many affordable first-run movie theaters that show both Hungarian and foreign films. A wide range of American and European films are shown regularly in theaters in Budapest. A good number of these remain in English, with Hungarian subtitles, although the trend is toward dubbing into Hungarian. 250

Cities of the World As a consequence of efforts to preserve Hungary’s historical and cultural treasures, Budapest abounds in museums of all types. Among the most interesting are the Buda Castle Museum, which recreates the atmosphere of the Middle Ages with its artful blend of authentic medieval artifacts and skillful reconstruction; the Hungarian National Gallery, which focuses on Hungarian painting, sculpture, and graphic arts from the 19th and 20th centuries, both in the Var (Castle district); The Museum of Fine Arts, which houses an extensive collection of both Hungarian and foreign artwork, much of which is top quality; and the Hungarian National Museum, which is the repository of the Crown of St. Stephen. A number of galleries and exhibition halls display the work of cont e mpor ar y Hung ar ia n a r tis ts. Among them are the Mucsarnok and Ernst Museums. Hungarian artists are well versed in Western art movements and tendencies, which often find expression in their work. In all cultural areas, tickets are priced well below U.S. equivalents. Information on cultural events is published in each of the daily papers, while such publications as the Pesti Musor and Programme in Hungary, as well as the cultural pages of the weekly English language press, provide details. For further information on this topic, please refer to the following section on recreation. Budapest is the center of Hungarian education. In addition to the Eotvos Lorand University, consisting of faculties of law, liberal arts, and the natural sciences, the Semmelweis Medical University, Budapest University of Economics, and academies for fine arts and technical fields are located in Budapest. The Hungarian Academy of Sciences, the country’s highest scientific body, maintains more the 80 research institutes and centers, most of which are located in Budapest.

Commerce and Industry Hungary possesses few natural resources other than agriculture, rich bauxite deposits, and some coal, oil, and natural gas. A strategic location in the heart of central Europe, a well educated population, and a history of government policies favorable to exports combine to give the economy a remarkable degree of openness. Emphases on internal reform and on foreign trade have helped make Hungary a leader among the reformist economies of central and eastern Europe. Roughly three economic watersheds have taken place since 1945. The first was post-World War II reconstruction, setting the base for a highly concentrated Stalinist-type heavy industry. The second was the reintroduction of light industry and modern agriculture following the 1956 popular uprising and Hungary’s acceleration through the 1968 New Economic Mechanism. The third, most dramatic and farreaching step has been the economic transformation following the end of the socialist era here in 1990.

Recent Economic History and Current Situation Hungary’s transition to a free market economy has proven more protracted and difficult than expected. Unemployment in 2000 remained high (9.4%) in a society where job security was long taken for granted. Output has fallen throughout the economy. Privatization has been f r u s t r a t i n g l y s l o w. H u n g a r y remains saddled with Europe’s highest per capita foreign debt. 8.6% of the population lives below the official poverty line, and living standards of the middle class have declined. However, painful policies are yielding positive results. The country has had strond economic growth in recent years. Hungary manages its foreign debt responsibly, and has

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Cities of the World attracted over $23 billion in foreign investment. Hungary’s creation of a market economy, its removal from the COCOM list of proscribed countries, and its trade agreements with European trading partners offer expanded opportunities for American businesses. The U.S. Government is assisting the country with a wide range of official assistance programs.

driving while intoxicated face jail and/or fine. The condition of Hungarian highways is, in general, relatively good. However, roads in the provinces are narrow, badly lit, and in poor repair in some places. They are often used by pedestrians, agricultural machines, and animals, requiring increased caution from drivers.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph

Transportation Local Public city transportation is excellent. Budapest and its environs are well serviced with a network of buses, streetcars, and subway lines. All systems are crowded during rush hour. The monthly pass for bus, subway, and streetcar is currently around 1,140 forints ($11.40), but increases quite often. Taxis are numerous, and available at stands throughout the city. Taxi fares depend on the taxi company and time of day. In addition, a highly dependable van service operates to and from Ferihegy, the Budapest airport; fares are much lower than for taxis.

Regional Air service between Budapest and most cities in Western Europe is adequate but, as is common in Europe, expensive. However, there are discount fares available in winter. Service is provided by KLM, Swissair, Austrian Airlines, Sabena, Iberia, Lufthansa, British Air, Alitalia, Delta, Air France, and Malev. Trains are available in Budapest to almost any destination in Europe. During the summer, daily (except Sunday) hydrofoil boats travel the Danube from Budapest to Vienna. The ride is scenic, pleasant, and takes about 5 hours. Reservations must be made in advance. There is zero tolerance for driving under the influence of alcohol. Police often conduct routine road checks where breath analyzers are administered. Persons found to be

Telephone and telegraph service to most countries is available, but quality is not up to U.S. standards. A stake in the Hungarian telephone company was recently purchased by a German-American consortium, which plans to upgrade the quality of service. Most countries can be reached by direct dialing, but service is unreliable and frustrating during working hours. After hours calling is easier and more reliable. Long distance calls are expensive to the U.S. (two to three times higher than calls placed from the U.S.), but relatively inexpensive to continental Europe. It is now possible to use long distance calling cards here, and this results in some cost saving on calls to the U.S. The Embassy operates its own FAX services. Telegrams sent through the Hungarian post office are inexpensive and reliable. All government-owned and -rented housing units have telephone service available at the occupant’s expense. Monthly bills include a monthly service charge and a percall charge; however, the calls are not itemized. Local monthly service is much cheaper than in the U.S.

Radio and Television Hungarian Radio (MR) has eastern FM channels which broadcast to a nationwide audience. They play music, news, talk shows, and entertainment programs. Pending the lifting of the three-year moratorium on the licensing of TV and radio frequencies, there are other radio stations audible in Budapest. Privately owned Radio Bridge, which broad-

casts rock music on the western FM band, also runs Voice of America news in English several times a day, as well as locally produced English language news programs twice a day. Danubius Calypso Juventus, jointly owned by a media entrepreneur and the 11th District Council, broadcasts daily on the eastern FM band to a small section of Budapest. Radio Danubius and Radio Calypso, commercial stations owned by MR, play music on western FM. Radio Juventus is a private commercial channel based in Siofok. There are numerous indigenous cable producers, and satellite television is increasingly popular in Hungary. The Hungarian government finances a satellite television network, Duna TV, which is seen in Hungary and surrounding countries. Hungarian television uses the PAL SECAM standard.

Newspapers, Magazines and Journals There are many daily newspapers in Budapest and scores of other regional and local dailies in the provinces. The printed press was privatized very soon after the political changes in Hungary, and many papers were bought by foreign investors. A wide variety of opinions and views are represented, though most papers tend to be associated with a particular political faction or point of view. Western newspapers and magaz i n e s a r e r e a d i ly av a i la b l e i n Budapest, but less so outside the city. The International Herald Tribune is available on the day of publication, either by subscription or at the kiosks. USA Today is available, usually a day late. Daily newspapers such as The New York Times are almost impossible to find, and arrive late and at great cost. The international editions of Time, Newsweek, and other magazines are in the kiosks on the day of publication. There are currently several English-language newspapers published weekly by American publishers, including Budapest Week, The 251

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Budapest Sun, and The Budapest Business Journal.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Many pharmacies are beginning to stock Western drugs as they become licensed in Hungary. Local physicians are highly qualified and well trained. Many pediatricians provide home care. More and more small, private clinics are opening with well-trained, Englishspeaking doctors. Although the hospitals and other facilities are often dated and standards of appearance are lower than what Americans are accustomed to, medical competency is high. Most doctors and hospitals expect cash payment before providing health services..

Preventive Measures Tap-water is potable. Because the water is considered very “hard,” with a high metal content and sediment, many individuals filter their drinking wate r. Budapest is a source of naturally carbonated water, which is sold in restaurants and stores. It is not necessary to boil milk. However, regular pasteurized milk spoils quickly. Sterilized long life milk is widely available and has a shelf life of six months. Raw fruits and vegetables are safe to eat, using washing precautions normally followed in the U.S. Sewerage and garbage disposal is adequate.

A visa is not required for stays of up to 90 days. Further information concerning entry requirements can be obtained at the Embassy of the Republic of Hungary at 3910 Shoemaker Street N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, tel. (202) 362-6730, or the nearest Hungarian consulate in Los Angeles or New York. Each member of the family, including children, should have his or her own passport. Hungary has a low rate of violent crime. However, street crime, which occasionally involves violence, has increased especially at night near major hotels and restaurants and on public transportation. Theft of passports, currency and credit cards is a frequent problem, especially in youth hostels, at train stations, and when riding public transportation. The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to local police and to the U.S. Embassy or Consulate. Foreigners may also experience problems with excessive billing, etc., at night clubs featuring “adult entertainment.” The number of burglaries has risen substantially, and vehicle thefts, particularly of high value automobiles, is a major problem.

NOTES FOR TRAVELLERS

No quarantine restrictions apply to household pets, but all animals must have valid, current general health and rabies certificates. All shots must be up to date at least thirty days before arrival in Hungary. Several well-trained veterinarians practice in Budapest, many of whom speak English and make house calls. Most pet supplies are available locally.

Each person should have a Hungarian entry visa. Completed application forms and photographs should be submitted to a Hungarian diplomatic or consular mission under cover of a note from the individual’s

The unit of Hungarian currency is the forint (Ft.). Currency is available in notes of 5,000; 1,000; 500; 100; and 50 Ft., and coins of 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 Ft. The offic ial exchange rate at the beginning of

Sinus and respiratory ailments are aggravated by winter smog and year-round pollution. Springtime provokes allergy problems.

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post of origin. This should be done well before your estimated arrival time in Hungary, as the application process normally takes up to three weeks.

2001 was around 282 Ft. to the U.S. dollar. You may exchange travellers checks and hard currency at banks and leading hotels. However, the acceptance of traveler’s checks and credit cards is not universal. The presence of ATM’s is increasing in Budapest only. Black market exchange and use of unauthorized currency exchange vendors in Hungary is illegal. Hungary uses the metric system. U.S. citizens are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy, and obtain updated information on travel and security within Hungary. The U.S. Embassy is at V. Szabadsag Ter 12 in Budapest; telephone (36-1) 267-4400, or afterhours at (36-1) 269-9331.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Mar. 15 . . . . . . . . . Revolution Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Hungary Labor Day May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday* May/June . . . . . . . Whit Monday* Aug. 20 . . . . . . . . . National Day Oct. 22. . . . . . . . . . Hungary Goverment Holiday Oct. 23. . . . . . . . . . Republic Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints’ Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day Dec. 31 . . . . . . . . . Hungary Government Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING Editor’s note: Because of the political change in Hungary in 1990 and its subsequent effect on nearly all aspects of life in Hungary, much of the literature about Hungary and

Hungary

Cities of the World Budapest is already outdated and obsolete. The following list is therefore necessarily short. It can be ad ded to the li te ra t ure whi ch relates to Hungarian history prior to 1990 referred to in the reading list published in the previous Post Report. One may also consult A Readers Guide To Hungary, a reading list published by the Foreign Service Institute School of Area Studies.

Batt, Judy. East Central Europe: From Reform to Transformation. New York: Council on Foreign Relations, 1991.

Abel, Elie. The Shattered Bloc: Behind the Upheaval in Eastern Europe (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1990).

Gati, Charles. The Bloc that Failed (Bloomington & Indianapolis: Indiana Univ. Press, 1990).

Ash, Garton. The Magic Lantern: The Revolution of ‘89 Witnessed in Warsaw, Budapest, Berlin, and P r a g u e ( N e w Yo r k : R a n d o m House, 1990).

Austria and Hungary, 1991-1992. Frommer’s Guides Series. New York: Prentice-Hall General Reference and Travel, 1990.

Brada, Josef C., and Istvan Dobozi, eds. Money, Incentives, and Efficiency in the Hungarian Economic Reform (Armonk, NY: M.E. Sharpe, 1990).

Honak, Peter, ed. One Thousand Years: A Concise History of Hungary. Portland, OR: International Specialized Book Services, 1991. Kiraly, Bela K. et al., eds. The First War Between Socialist States: The

Hungarian Revolution of 1956 and Its Impact. New York: East European Quarterly, 1984. Kornai, Janos. The Road to a Free Economy—Shifting from a Socialist System: The Example of H u n g a r y ( N e w Yo r k : W. W. Norton, 1990). M i ch e n e r, Ja m e s A . B r i dg e at A n d a u . N e w Yo r k : R a n d o m House, 1957. Parsons, Nicholas T. Hungary: A Traveller’s Guide. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1991. Sisa, Stephen. The Spirit of Hungary: A Panorama of Hungarian History and Culture, 2nd ed. Long Branch, NJ: Vista Publishing, 1991. Torok, Andras. Budapest: A Critical Guide (Budapest: Park/Officina Nova, 1992).

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Reykjavík, Iceland

ICELAND Republic of Iceland

Major Cities: Reykjavík, Akureyri Other Cities: Akranes, Hafnarfjördur, Keflavík, Kópavogur, Vestmannaeyjar

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Iceland. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION A trip to Iceland can be a unique and rewarding experience. Reykjavik is the northernmost capital in the world, and for its size, has unique cultural and healthy lifestyle opportunities. Icelanders speak the ancient language of the Vikings, spoken nowhere else, and enjoy the benefits of a modern welfare state comparable to any in the world. They endure almost 3 months of near darkness (November-January) and revel in 3 months of total daylight (May-July). With an average wintertime temperature of 32°F, Iceland's climate is not as harsh as its name would suggest.

Weather permitting, ample opportunities are available to enjoy winter sports, such as downhill or crosscountry skiing and ice skating; or summer activities such as camping, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, and trekking over some of Europe's most beautiful glaciers. Year round, you can swim in Iceland's famous natural hot springs or open-air swimming pools. Iceland has good air connections to the rest of Europe. Most Icelanders speak English, are open and friendly, and eager to share their ancient culture. A trip to Reykjavik will be remembered and cherished as one of the unique experiences of your life.

MAJOR CITIES Reykjavík Reykjavik is Iceland's capital and its largest city. Located on the southwest coast, it sits on a peninsula extending northwest into the sea. It lies at 64°N and 22°W. Reykjavik is a modern, picturesque city. New buildings of reinforced concrete are rapidly replacing older wooden framed and corrugated iron

structures similar to those found in northern Norway. Small detached and semi-detached houses and numerous apartment buildings are found in the city. Houses are well built, comfortable, and modern. All of the city's central heating is supplied by hot springs. Reykjavik is often referred to as the “smokeless city” because of this heating method. Reykjavik is the seat of government and the focal point of Icelandic cultural activity. It is the site of the University of Iceland, founded in 1911. It has a museum of natural history, a national museum, four art m u s e u m s, a m u n i c i p a l a n d a n a t i o n a l t h e a t e r, a s y m p h o n y orchestra, an opera, a ballet company, art galleries, libraries, seven movie theaters, an outdoor stadium, an indoor arena, and private and state radio and TV stations. The city has thermally heated outdoor swimming pools that are open year round, three small lakes teeming with wild bird life year round, and several parks. Reykjavik's terrain is essentially barren lava; however, the mountains and natural harbor form a scenic setting for the capital. The harbor, with its extensive shipping 255

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and fishing activities, is the lifeline of the city. Reykjavik enjoys a high living standard. At around $26,300 per capita, income is comparable to that in the U.S.

Utilities Electric current is 220v, 50-cycle, single-phase, AC. Motors not wired for 50 cycles will operate on the local current but can overheat and burn up when run continually. Electric appl iances equipped for 110v, except clocks and record players, can be operated with a transformer on the local current. U.S. record players must be converted from 60 to 50 cycles to operate properly. Normally, this takes only a small, inexpensive device that is quickly installed. Step-down transformers may be purchased locally. Wall sockets are usually the European, twopronged, tubular type, although other types of plugs and sockets are sometimes used in newer construction. In any event, conversion plugs to adapt U.S. plugs to Icelandic wall sockets are available. The municipality provides geothermally heated water for heating and other purposes to all city housing. You quickly become used to the slight sulfur smell of the hot water. The natural hot water is excellent for washing clothes but will blacken silver not rinsed immediately in cold water, which is nonsulfurous.

Food Every neighborhood in Reykjavik has a bakery, fish shop, and dairy store. Bread and cakes are baked and sold fresh daily. Dairy stores feature many types of cheese, yogurt, “skyr” (a type of Icelandic yogurt), cream and a number of milk products not found in the U.S. All Icelandic food items are of good quality and completely safe to eat.

Clothing Bring a good supply of shoes and boots, especially rubber rain and snow boots. All are available on the local market or at the base exchange. But local stores are expensive and styles do not always 256

appeal to American tastes. Strap-on “cleats” sold in Reykjavik can be useful on windy and icy winter days. Availability of such items at the Navy exchange is erratic. In general, all family members should have adequate clothing for a cold, wet climate. Iceland produces fine woolen goods, especially sweaters, at quite reasonable prices, but all other clothing is expensive. The Navy exchange carries some basic clothes for everyone, although styles, stocks and sizes are limited. Many people order clothing through U.S. catalog stores. A raincoat with removable lining is quite useful. Hikers should bring thermal underwear and sturdy boots or walking shoes as well as rain gear. Men: Men wear wool suits year round, but bring fall- and summerweight suits for travel outside Iceland and for those warm days of summer when lighter clothing may be more comfortable. Women: Long dresses or skirts are sometimes worn, but cocktail-type dresses are suitable for all but the most formal occasions. Wool suits and dresses are useful. Hand-knit Icelandic sweaters are an outstanding value and are worn frequently. Head scarves and plastic rain bonnets are necessary. A long winter-weight raincoat with removable lining, a spring coat, and a summer-weight coat are useful. Bring weather-proof shoes for rain and/or snow. Icelandic women dress fashionably, buying imported items here at prices three to four times higher than in the U.S. Local dressmakers are expensive. Children: Children's clothing is expensive. Children tend to play outdoors year round even in the most inclement weather. Bring good rain gear and boots.

Supplies and Services Common toiletries, cosmetics, and household needs are expensive at

local stores. Selection is often limited, so bring your favorite brands. Men's tailoring is fair. Laundries and drycleaning are adequate and conveniently located, but there are no laundromats. Local prices for laundry and drycleaning are higher than in New York and Washington, D.C. Reykjavik has several hairdressers and barbershops. Services are expensive but the work is of the highest quality.

Domestic Help Domestic help is extremely difficult to find. Icelanders do not normally employ full-time servants. Some women do housework and help cook and serve at dinners and receptions for about $12-$15 a hour. They normally expect to get paid for a minimum of four hours. The rate includes any taxes that might be owed by the employee. Babysitters cost $5 or more per hour and are difficult to find on short notice.

Religious Activities Protestant and Catholic services in Reykjavik are generally in Icelandic, but most clergymen speak English. The Catholic Church holds an English Mass on Sunday evenings. You can also participate in religious activities at the base. Services are held in English for Catholics, Protestants, and (occasionally) for Jews. A chaplain from the NATO base conducts a monthly nondenominational service at the University of Iceland chapel (in Reykjavik).

Education The American Embassy School provides an American-style primary education from kindergarten through grade 6. Enrollment consists of Embassy children, Icelanders, and English-speaking children of foreign diplomats. The student population varies considerably from year to year (1996-97: 18 students; 1997-98: 14). Due to the school's size, classes are composed of mixed grades with different ages of chil-

Iceland

Cities of the World dren. The school is in three rooms in an apartment building close to the center of Reykjavik. The head teacher/principal is a U.S. citizen, as are some other teachers. Most hold degrees from American universities and all speak both English and Icelandic. The school is well equipped with modern educational materials and supplies. Local nursery school is a problem because schools are few and waiting lists are long. Preference is given to Icelandic mothers who work.

Sports The most popular family sport in Iceland is swimming, done year round in pools filled with natural hot water. Reykjavik has four outdoor and two indoor pools. Charges are nominal and facilities are excellent. A number of other sp orts and activities are possible in Reykjavik, even during the long winter months. Interest in track and field is strong, and many joggers run in parks or at the University's 400-meter track. Several private gymnasiums are in town that typically offer exercise and weight lifting equipment, saunas, and aerobics classes. Fees for u s e o f s u ch f a c i l i t i e s av e r a g e Ikr5,000 per month. The city has two bowling alleys and there are two more at the base. The base also has a well-equipped gymnasium and swimming pool. It is possible to play a number of racket sports such as tennis, badminton, and squash on indoor courts in Reykjavik, but prices are high. Other more sedentary activities such as chess and billiards are also popular in Iceland. Both downhill and cross-country skiing are popular in Iceland. The main ski area for Reykjavik is located in the Blue Mountains, approximately 45 minutes from the city. The facility has two chair lifts 800 and 1,200 meters long, six tow lifts, and two bunny slopes. Two other ski areas are also near Reykjavik. Skiing usually starts in January and continues through April, but you cannot count on having sufficient snow in the Reykjavik area

City skyline from Reykjavik harbor

for skiing every year. Skiing conditions are more reliable in the north near Akureyri. Glacier skiing is good throughout the summer. A ski school is on one of the glaciers. Rent skiing equipment in town, at the Blue Mountain resort, or from the base Morale Welfare and Recreation Association. The Recreation Association also organizes reasonably priced ski tours to well-known European ski areas. Ice skating is another popular winter sport. Reykjavik's skating rink is open from late October through mid April. Skate rentals are available. During very cold winters, skating is permitted on the pond in downtown Reykjavik. The Reykjavik area has about six golf courses. Another course is available near the base. Though weather has to be considered, Iceland has many golfing enthusiasts. Horseback riding is possible on trails and unpaved roads in the Reykjavik area. Icelandic horses are small, powerful, and independent minded creatures. Rent horses near Reykjavik for approximately $17 an hour or $50 for 3 hours. Summer cross country trips on horseback are offered by various travel bureaus. This is a sport that both adults and

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

children can enjoy. The usual riding dress is either riding breeches or jeans, knee-length rubber boots, and a weatherproof parka with hood. Rubber boots are used, since riders often ride in the surf or ford small streams. Horse shows, which include racing, are held on summer weekends. No betting is allowed in Iceland. Bird watching is a popular activity. Iceland is world famous for its variety of birds. Beautiful Lake Myvatn in the north is noted for its waterfowl, including some which are not found anywhere else in Europe. Fishermen from all over the world are attracted to the outstanding salmon streams in Iceland. Most of the better streams are rented to Icelandic clubs or to individuals, and fishing time must be reserved months in advance. Unless you are lucky enough to be invited as a guest, the average charge per rod a day for salmon fishing is a startling $250$850, varying according to which rivers you go to and whether your trip is catered. River trout fishing is considerably less expensive at $55-$85 per rod a day. Lake trout fishing is also excellent and much less expensive, averaging $14-$30 per rod a day. And good lake trout fishing can be found within 15 min257

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utes of central Reykjavik. Sea trout and German brown trout are found in streams near Reykjavik. Faxa Bay has good deep sea fishing, especially codfish, halibut, and haddock. A boat may be chartered for fishing parties. Group rates are reasonable. Extensive and unusual camping opportunities are available during Iceland's short summer. It is easy to find an area affording complete privacy, and once in the countryside you can pitch a tent almost anywhere. Organized campsites with modern facilities are also available. Campers must be hardy, since temperatures during summer range from 35°F to 60°F and rain and wind are common. Bring your own gear if you plan to make frequent camping trips. Some hunting opportunities exist. The season for geese and ptarmigan varies from 11/2 to 3 months in the fall. Reindeer hunting during the autumn is occasionally permitted, based on the size of the herd, by the government in the eastern part of the country.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Hiking and mountain climbing are interesting and rewarding. You must come equipped with sturdy hiking boots and suitable clothes for these activities. The countryside is unique and beautiful, and summer sightseeing can be delightful, especially if the weather is good. Many sights, such as Heidmork Park, the Blue Lagoon, and Krisuvik hot s prings, are within easy driving distance of Reykjavik. Thingvellir, seat of the ancient Icelandic Parliament, is about 30 miles east and has magnificent mountain views. It is on the north shore of Thingvallavatn, Iceland's largest lake. Hveragerdi, a small settlement 25 miles east of the capital, has geothermal steam experiments in progress, including large, steamheated greenhouses in which fruit and flowers are grown. Laugarvatn, 60 miles east of Reykjavik, has a 258

summer hotel and a lake warmed enough by subterranean heat to make swimming possible At Geysir, a few miles farther east, is the world-famous spouter from which the word “geysir” derives. In the same area i; Gullfoss, a magnificent waterfall. The well-known semiactive volcano, Mt Hekla, is located southeast of Gullfoss. Trips to remote areas are frequently organized by local travel agencies. Camping tours it four-wheel-drive buses are a good way to see remote areas. The Akureyri area is about 280 mile; north of Reykjavik. Vaglaskogur is a lovely park near Akureyri with camping and picnicking sites. Nearby is Godafoss, a beautiful waterfall, and farther east Dettifoss, one of the world's largest waterfalls. Lake Myvatn, with its unique surroundings of lava and hot mud pools, is also in the Akureyri area. Vestfirdir (the Westfjords) on the northwest peninsula has magnificent scenery. The chief town, Isafjord u r, i s a b o u t 2 0 C m i l e s f r o m Reykjavik and can be reached by car, air, or ship. The roads, like those elsewhere in the countryside, are poor and often impassable in winter. On the southeast coast of Iceland lies Vatnajokull, the largest glacier in the world outside the Antarctic and Greenland. Located about 185 miles from Reykjavik, the area has some of the country's most spectacular scenery. It takes a full day by car to reach this glacier. Hotel accommodations are scarce in this area, so bring camping gear unless you have made lodging reservations well in advance. Another site of particular interest is the island of Heimaey in the Westmann Islands. It was here in 1973 that the volcano Eldfjall was created by an eruption in a pasture near the town. The island was evacuated during the eruption, but most of the population has since returned. Quite a contrast exists

between the untouched part of town and the desolate part of the town that remains buried under the lava.

Entertainment Ten movie theaters in the Reykjavik area show mainly English-language films with Icelandic subtitles. The films are recent releases. Regular stage performances are first rate but are usually in Icelandic. Occasionally, the National Theater presents operas and musicals. The Iceland Symphony Orchestra presents a regular concert season averaging a concert twice monthly from October through May. Season tickets are available. The Ballet Company at the National Theater also has occasional performances. Numerous excellent, though somewhat expensive, restaurants (including its own Hard Rock Cafe) are located in Reykjavik. McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fr i e d C h i c k e n , a n d D o m i n o ' s (delivery only) are established here and are popular places for those seeking fast food service. Reykjavik has several nightclubs, including a few at local hotels. All restaurants and nightclubs are expensive.

Social Activities Due to the American community's small size, social life among Americans is limited. The International Women's Club of Reykjavik offers activities and an opportunity to meet spouses from the American diplomatic community and growing numbers of Icelanders. Home hospitality is valued in Iceland. American families have found coffees, luncheons, buffet dinners, and informal cocktail parties all congenial ways of entertaining Icelandic friends. Some older school-age children, especially if coming directly from the U.S., may have adjustment problems. They may be heightened if they arrive in summer, long before school begins. Their playmates will be Icelandic children, many of whom may not speak English. Most

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Cities of the World older school children speak English. An effort needs to be made, but Icelandic and American children will often find common interests, such as sports.

Akureyri Akureyri, located at the head of Eyjafjordur Fjord only 100 miles from the Arctic Circle, is the country’s most important town in the north and the fourth largest population center (the second and third largest are suburbs of Reykjavík). Akureyri has a population of 14,400. Founded in 1862 as a small farming and fishing post, today it is a modern commercial and industrial city with a frontier flavor. There are several shipyards in the area. Accessible from Reykjavík by road, air, and a two-day steamer trip, Akureyri is Iceland’s most important winter sports center. Several hotels, hostels, and camping areas (for summer use only) are located in or near the city. A folklore museum and the Museum of Natural History are both located in Akureyri, along with several Icelandic heritage homes of some of the nation’s best known poets and writers. The botanical garden in the city is really a museum of every flower and plant grown in Iceland. In June, the Akureyri Golf Club holds a 36-hole open international m a t ch , w i t h t e e - o f f j u s t a f t e r midnight. Guided tours of Akureyri are available, as well as flights north to view the midnight sun. The scenic Lake Mývatn area combines a placid lake, the world’s most diverse duck colony, picturesque rock formations, lava fields, an active fissure volcano, and boiling water and mud pools. Nearby are two major waterfalls: Dettifoss, which in height and volume is Europe’s largest waterfall, and Godafoss, which is noted for its beauty. Multitudes of birds of various species can be seen on Drangey Island and on Grimsey Island, which is right on the Arctic C i r c l e. T h e f i s h i n g v i l l a g e o f

Husavík has both a natural history museum and a folk museum; Skagafjörthur has another folk museum and the well-preserved Vithmyri Church.

OTHER CITIES Located in western Iceland, at the tip of a peninsula between Borgor and Hval fjords, AKRANES is 20 miles north of the capital. It is the site of Iceland’s state-owned cement plant. Akranes is a fishing port and a market center with a population of around 5,400. The city has a road leading to Reykjavík. HAFNARFJÖRDUR, chartered in 1908, is a port in southwestern Iceland, seven miles south of Reykjavík. It is a distribution and fishing center with refrigeration plants, fish-meal factories, and shipyards. German and English traders fought over this port, with its excellent harbor, in the 15th and 16th centuries. An aquarium and small zoo, with exhibits of fish, seals, birds, reindeer, and polar bear, are located here. Modern Hafnarfjördur is home to about 14,500 Icelanders. It became Iceland’s third largest town in the late 1980s. West of Reykjavík, on Faxa Bay, lies KEFLAVÍK, a major fishing port known for its international airport built by the United States during World War II. Originally called Meeks Field, the air base was given to Iceland in October 1946. The U.S. was given the right to station troops there in 1951. Three thousand NATO personnel and 2,000 dependents live at Keflavík. There are around 7,500 permanent residents. KÓPAVOGUR is situated in southwestern Iceland, just south of the capital. The town is a fast-growing, modern Reykjavík suburb which has grown up entirely since World War II. In the early 1970s, it became one of the country’s largest towns. Its current population is about 15,900. Located nearby is the town of Bessastadhir, home of Iceland’s president.

VESTMANNAEYJAR is the chief town of the Westman Islands, a cluster of 15 islands of organic origin off the south coast of Iceland. It sits on Heimaey, the largest of the islands, and its 5,000 residents represent almost the entire Westman population. The inhabitants live by fishing and fowling—colonies of gannet and waterfowl breed here. The 17th century saw the islands ravaged by Algerian pirates, who carried off 400 people into slavery. In 1973, a volcanic eruption forced the evacuation of the entire population in the course of a few hours. The eruption lasted close to five months, engulfing half the town in lava and covering the remainder in ash. The harbor and fish-processing plants were saved by pumping sea water to control the flow and rate of cooling of the lava—the harbor was actually improved. Most of the inhabitants returned. In addition to the grandeur of the scenery and the number and variety of birds on these islands, a popular attraction is the barren island of Surtsey, created by a 1963 underwater eruption.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Iceland, the second largest island in Europe (39,706 square miles), is slightly smaller than the state of Virginia. Three-quarters of the country is a wilderness of deserts, lava fields, glaciers, and extinct volcanoes. This lunar landscape serve as a training ground for American astronauts preparing for the first moon landings. A distinct beauty is found here in the treeless landscape. The combination of crystal clear air and brilliant sunshine creates vistas that can only be described as breathtaking. This is big sky country, where rivers and waterfalls are abundant. In summer the inhabited coastal area is verdant, its pastures filled with sheep, horses, and cows. In the dark of win259

Iceland ter, parts of the same area are windswept, sometimes snow-covered, forbidding, and often inaccessible. Despite its location close to the Arctic Circle, Reykjavik's climate is similar to that of the northwestern U.S., although cooler and windier. The Gulf Stream helps keep the annual mean temperature at 40 °F. Changes between summer and winter are not extreme. It is rarely very cold in winter or warm in summer. Winter temperatures below 20 °F are unusual, as are summer temperatures above 60 °F. The wind blows year round, however, and a wind chill factor between -15 °F and 10 °F is common in winter. Cooler weather lasts from October through April. Snow may fall in Reykjavik as early as September and as late as June, but the normal season is between October or November and March or April. Even in midwinter, rain is as likely as snow. A large accumulation of snow is rare. Average annual rainfall is 31 inches in Reykjavik. During winter and spring, winds in the capital can reach hurricane force. Overall, the winter climate is not as severe as that of New England or the Great Lakes; but on a yearlong basis, Iceland's weather is decidedly on the cool side. Iceland is so far north that the amount of daylight varies considerably throughout the year. An average daily gain of 6 minutes of daylight follows the winter solstice on December 21, and a daily loss of 6 minutes follows the summer solstice on June 21. December and January days have only about 4 hours of daylight; in February the days rapidly begin to lengthen; and by April they are as long as at midsummer in the U.S. From late May to late July, there is no darkness at all-20 hours of sun (or clouds) and 4 hours of twilight. Following this period of “white nights,” the sun slowly retreats, and by October the days begin to shorten as rapidly as they lengthened in the spring. Earthquakes are common in Iceland, but are rarely felt in Reykja260

Cities of the World vik. Volcanic activity is infrequent but rather spectacular when an e r u p t i o n d o e s o c c u r. T h e underwater volcano that created the new island of Surtsey in the Westmann Islands off the south coast began erupting in November 1963 and remained active through mid-1967. In January 1973, a volcanic eruption on Heimaey Island in the Westmann Islands forced the evacuation of all 5,000 residents and destroyed more than 300 homes and buildings. In the Krafla area, near Lake Myvatn, an eruption took place in December 1975, lasting several days; this area subsequently has seen seven lesser eruptions, and further volcanic activity is expected there. The most famous of Iceland's volcanoes, Mt. Hekla, which had been expected to remain dormant for a 100 years or so after its spectacular 1947 eruption, produced eruptions in August 1980, April 1981, and January 1991. A volcano under the Glacier Vatnajokull erupted in November 1996, melting tons of ice and creating destructive flooding.

Population Iceland is the most sparsely populated country in Europe, averaging little more than five persons per square mile. About 60% of Iceland's total population of 270,000 live in and around Reykjavik. The capital's population is 105,500. The second and third largest towns, Kopavogur and Hafnarfjordur, are both suburbs of Reykjavik. Akureyri, on the central northern coast with 15,000 people, is the fourth largest population center. Keflavik is the town nearest the NATO base and 32 miles from Reykjavik. The NATO base has about 3,000 military personnel and 2,400 dependents. Most other Icelanders live in small fishing villages or farming communities around the coast. The center of the country is completely uninhabited. Excluding the American-staffed NATO base, approximately 700 U.S. citizens reside in Iceland. Of the 355,340 tourists and business representatives who visited the country

in 1995, about 30,000 were Americans. Icelanders are descended from Nordic and Celtic peoples who first arrived in A.D. 874 and rapidly settled the island, previously inhabited only by a few Irish monks who lived as hermits. Most Icelanders are knowledgeable about their family history, some tracing it back to the time of the settlements. The Icelandic language is of Germanic origin and was introduced from western Norway in the 9th century. It has gone through so few changes since the Viking age that an Icelander of today can read and understand 12th- and 13th-century literature-notably the famous Sagas. Despite the difficulty of the Icelandic language, some long-term visitors learn to read newspapers and carry on basic conversations. These efforts are greatly appreciated by Icelanders. Foreigners are often confused by Icelandic family names. Few continuing family names are used. The given name is the primary name, and the surname tells only the given name of the father. Surnames for males are formed by adding “son” to the possessive form of the father's given name. For females, the suffix “dottir” is added to the father's given name. The wife keeps her maiden name. As a result, the Icelandic telephone book is arranged alphabetically by first names. Further differentiation is made on the basis of last name, profession and address. Iceland's population is about 97% Lutheran. Although Lutheranism is the state religion, Iceland has complete religious freedom. Catholics number nearly 2,520 and have their own church. The population also includes some 3,700 members of other religious denominations. Icelandic dress, housing, and food are similar to those in other Nordic countries. According to October 1997 statistics, about 4.5% of the population was earning its living from farming; 10.9% from fishing

Iceland

Cities of the World and fish processing; 11.1% from manufacturing; 6.5% from construction; 13.7% from commerce; 7.1% from transport and communications; and the remaining from other service industries. Unemployment is about 4%.

include police administration of state old-age pensions and other social benefits. Historically, the mayor of Reykjavik has been an important political figure. Five postwar prime ministers of Iceland were former mayors of the city.

Public Institutions

Arts, Science, and Education

Iceland elects a president every 4 years. The President has largely ceremonial responsibilities. Iceland elected the world's first female head of state in 1980. She served four terms. On August 1996, Olafur Ragnar Grimsson became the President of the Icelandic Republic. Parliamentary elections take place at 4-year intervals unless the Althing dissolves itself before the end of its normal term. The smallest districts elect five members of parliament (MPs), giving them a disproportionate share of the seats; the largest, Reykjavik, elects 18 MPs based on the share of popular votes for each slate of candidates. Legislative power rests with the Althing, or Icelandic parliament, which is a unicameral legislature. Executive power is vested in the Prime Minister and Cabinet. The Cabinet has always been formed by a coalition of political parties. A written constitution provides for a system of national and local courts to administer justice, and specifically guarantees personal liberties. Iceland has an independent judiciary. A Supreme Court sits in Reykj av i k , a n d c r i m i n a l c a s e s a r e handled by the state prosecuting a t t o r n e y. T h e j u d i c i a l s y s t e m includes district and town judges, a Maritime Court, and an Arbitration Court for adjudication of labor disputes. Iceland is divided into 34 districts and 22 towns. Each district and town is administered by a magistrate responsible to an elected council of 7-15 members. Normally, in the larger towns, a coalition of political parties within the council will form a governing majority. The principal responsibilities of magistrates

Icelanders have traditionally had a strong interest in education and the arts. The literacy rate is 99.9%. Reykjavik has a variety of bookstores that also carry English lang u a g e b o o k s. B o o k pr i c e s a n d tickets for all cultural performances are high. Painting, sculpture, theater, and music are enthusiastically supported. Museums and legitimate theaters feature Icelandic creative works as well as foreign productions, including American productions. The Icelandic Research Council (IRC) operates under the Ministry of Culture, Education and Science. Its mission is to reinforce and underpin the cultural and economic foundation of Icelandic society by promoting vigorous and well-coordinated scientific endeavors, technical development, and innovation. The IRC advises the Government of Iceland, publishes information, and serves as a liaison with research institutes and companies and with agencies and relevant international organizations. Education is compulsory for children ages 7 to 15. The University of Iceland in Reykjavik had 5,826 students during the 1996-97 academic year. It has departments of law, philosophy, economics, Icelandic language and literature, theology, medicine, dentistry, science, and engineering. The Saga manuscripts, returned from Denmark in 1971, are housed in the university's Manuscript Institute. The Reykjavik Music Society, the Iceland Opera, and the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, among other

local musical organizations, offer frequent performances of classical music, and local social clubs sponsor Icelandic and visiting concert artists. The Iceland Symphony Orchestra offers a concert series every other week during the fall, winter, and spring, often featuring internationally famous guest artists. Well-known jazz musicians perform several times a year in Iceland. The Icelandic National Broadcasting Service, in cooperation with the City of Reykjavik, sponsors a Jazz Festival every September. It features classical, rock, jazz, and folk music concerts by well-known performers as well as art exhibits and theater performances. Reykjavik has 10 cinemas featuring mainly U.S. movies, many of which are first run. In addition, university and college film clubs offer classic and fore i g n f i l ms. A Fil m Fes t i v a l i s sponsored by the City of Reykjavik every other September.

Commerce and Industry Iceland's 1998 estimated GNP was about $7.5 billion, or roughly $28,500 per capita. The economy is essentially market-based but with significant government intervention. While the cooperative movement historically played an important role in many aspects of the economy, this is changing rapidly under a private-sector oriented government. The national and municipal governments, directly and through the banking system and investment funds, control a large share of the financial resources available to Icelandic business firms. Government involvement is widespread in shipbuilding, fish processing, communications, tourist facilities, and electric power generation and distribution. The national government owns and operates one cement and one fertilizer plant. Iceland depends on imports for many of its needs. Fishery products 261

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comprise about 75% of exports. The biggest overseas market for Iceland's marine exports has traditionally been the U.S., but that has changed in recent years, and the U.K. has taken the top spot. The U.S. share of Icelandic fish exports has fallen from 21% in 1986 to about 18% in 1997. About 65% of Iceland's fish exports go to Europe. The U.S. supplied slightly more than 9% of Iceland's imports. Other major trading partners include Japan and Germany. Iceland's future industrial development is likely to hinge on utilization of its abundant hydroelectric and geothermal power. The government actively encourages foreign investment in energy intensive industry tha t wo ul d ma ke us e of the se resources. Nevertheless, apart from the fish processing industry, hydroelectric power installations, a diatomite plant, a ferrosilicon plant, and a Swiss-owned aluminum smelter, industry is rather small scale and geared mainly to meet local consumption needs. Ground was broken in 1997 for an American-owned aluminum smelter.

Transportation Automobiles As of July 1, 1992, all vehicles imported into Iceland must have a catalytic converter. Unleaded and diesel fuels are available here. All vehicles must pass a safety and emissions inspection before getting license plates. Equip all cars with shoulder seat belts in the front seat. Vehicles in Iceland must be driven at all times with their lights on. Automatic systems for turning lights on/off with the engine are mandatory. Required for registering the vehicle are a valid title, vehicle specifications, bill of lading, and a certificate of origin. Additional documentation is required for the importation of a brand new vehicle unless it has been registered in the U.S. before entering the country. Jeeps and vans must have mudflaps. These can be obtained locally, if you do not already have them 262

installed. Use snow tires from November through April 15. All vehicles must carry third-party l i a b i l i t y i n s u r a n c e p u r ch a s e d through local insurance firms. You can buy other coverage from Icelandic, U.S., or European firms. Bring a valid U.S. or other national drivers license with you. Otherwise, it costs between $557 and $922, including the cost of driving lessons, to obtain an Icelandic drivers permit.

Local Local taxi and bus service is safe and efficient. Monthly bus passes, as well as discounted individual tickets valid for use on all buses in greater Reykjavik, are available at reduced costs. Taxis are metered and zoned. They are widely used and readily available but cost more than in New York or Washington, D.C. Tipping is not customary.

Regional Iceland has no railroads or streetcars. The two-lane highway from Reykjavik to Keflavik is one of the best roads in the country. A ring road circles the island (1,480 km., or 925 miles). Other roads outside Reykjavik are mainly dirt or gravel of good to fair quality. Nearly all inhabited parts of Iceland can be reached by car during summer (early June to mid-September). Use a four-wheel-drive vehicle with high road clearance for trips to the country's interior. Most of the popular tourist locations outside Reykjavik can be reached during summer without a four-wheel drive vehicle.

International Icelandair (Flugleidir) is the only carrier with regularly scheduled service between Iceland and the U.S. Rates are two to three times the cost of U.S.-originating flights. Special bargain fares are available at low travel times. The airline flies daily to New York and Baltimore. It also flies five times a week to Boston, twice a week to Orlando, and four times a week to Minneapolis. A few charter air companies also provide service to Europe.

A car ferry operates with weekly sailings (June through August), between Seydisfjordur, 461 miles to the east of Reykjavik, and the Faroe Islands, Scotland, and Norway.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph State-owned telephone service is available to all parts of Iceland and principal points throughout the world. Connections to the U.S. are reasonably quick and clear. Directdial is available. Charges for directdial to the U.S. are about 75¢ a minute, slightly more for operatorassisted calls. There is a reduced rate from 11 p.m. to 8 a.m. at 56¢ per minute. Quarterly service costs are about $20. AT&T, Sprint, and MCI calling cards and call-back services can be used in Iceland as well.

Mail International airmail to the U.S. takes 3-10 days, depending on the destination, and costs about 92 cents for the first 20 grams. Mail service is reliable.

Radio and TV The Navy radio station broadcasts 24 hours daily and can be heard in Reykjavik on AM 1530. Icelandic radio operates primarily on FM. Numerous stations, both state and private, have coverage lasting virtually all day. You might want to bring a good shortwave radio, as VOA and BBC program reception is good and is an excellent supplement to Icelandic and U.S. publications. Numerous TV stations can be received seven days a week. The state TV station broadcasts approximately 24 hours a day and can be received by any set operating on the PAL system. Channel 2 and Syn are private stations also broadcasting in PAL. With the exception of the daily news program and a few other shows, their signals cannot be received without the payment of a monthly subscription fee. Syn plus cable (Discovery, CNN, Sky News, Cartoon Network, TNT, Eurosport, MTV, NBC Europe, BBC Prime) costs about $38 a month. Channel 2

Iceland

Cities of the World plus cable is about twice as much (about $78 a month). The “cable” stations without Channel 2 or Syn can be ordered at about $18 a month. Icelandic stations broadcast a variety of entertainment, news, cultural, and sports programs. Many of the entertainment programs are in English with Icelandic subtitles. TV sets purchased for the U.S. (NSTC) system will not work in Reykjavik, but the Navy Exchange at the NATO base generally has a reasonable selection of multi-system TVs and VCRs, which will work in Iceland and in the U.S. Video stores for PAL machines abound in Reykjavik. Cassettes are also available for rental at the NATO base, for the American NTSC system. So it is worthwhile to bring your present TV and VCR for operation with a transformer, even if they are American system only.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals American newspapers and magazines, such as the New York Times or Time, arrive approximately one week late. The Dutch edition of the International Herald Tribune is usually a day late. European editions of Time and Newsweek are sold at local newsstands. Reykjavik has three daily newspapers and one weekly, all in Icelandic.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Reykjavik's medical facilities equal those in comparably sized U.S. cities. The University of Iceland has its own medical school. Many Icelandic doctors and dentists have been trained in the U.S. and/or in Europe. Nurses and other medical staff do not usually study abroad, so they do not necessarily speak fluent English. Reykjavik has three wellequipped and well-staffed hospitals,

but they are usually crowded. Iceland has a state-supported medical program, and doctor's fees are reasonable by U.S. standards. Drugs and pharmaceuticals are expensive for foreigners. All medicines are sold only by prescription. Facilities for standard laboratory work are available. Only rarely must tests be sent abroad for more sophisticated evaluation. Neighborhood clinics in Reykjavik provide well-baby check-ups and routine childhood immunizations for reasonable fees. Icelandic dentists are competent and their prices are comparable to those in Washington, D.C. Orthodontia is also available in Reykjavik, generally with Americantrained dentists. Eyeglasses and contact lenses are available on the local market. Prices in the latter are comparable to those in the U.S. Obstetric care in Reykjavik is excellent. Child delivery can be done in Reykjavik's National Hospital. Iceland-trained mid-wives deliver babies with a doctor available if there is an emergency. Iceland has one of the lowest infant mortality rates in the world.

Community Health Reykjavik is a remarkably tidy city, with however a sooty black air pollution (especially in the winter), a developing smog problem, and an occasionally strong smell when the fishmeal plants are operating. Iceland has no serious endemic diseases or health hazards. Levels are similar to those in the U.S. and Western Europe. Influenza, whooping cough, measles, chicken pox, and pneumonia are the most common ailments. Many people suffer from the flu each winter. Light deprivation can be a real problem for some people. Days are drastically shortened in winter. The sun rises after 11 a.m. and sets around 3 p.m. In reality, because the sun is so low in the sky, even a low hill range can block its already weak lighting effect. Street lights,

activated by low-light sensors, are often on throughout the “daylight” hours. Many experience symptoms of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD)-depression, sleep problems, anxiety, difficulty in concentrating, etc. High intensity lights are issued to each family to help counteract these effects. But the long hours of darkness remain extremely debilitating. Water throughout Iceland is potable, pollution free, and so tasty it is often called “Icelandic champagne.” It is not fluoridated. You can drink water from streams without boiling it. Hot water in homes has a slightly sulfurous smell, and it is completely safe to drink. You must be cautious, as it comes out of the tap at 176°F Some people react to drinking the hot water. Others experience a dermatological sensitivity (especially during the first few weeks after arrival). Government standards for food inspection are high, and foods bought on the local market can be eaten without special preparation or treatment. Milk is pasteurized and government controlled, although it is not vitamin D fortified. Garbage is collected by the city once a week.

Preventive Measures No special immunizations or therapeutic treatments are required before coming here, but German measles and mumps shots are advisable for infants and young children, as are polio vaccines and the other routine immunizations. Qualified pediatricians are readily available. Most children have no special health problems. Those who suffer from respiratory ailments, rheumatism, or arthritis may find that Iceland's climate can aggravate these conditions. Dryness from the heating system and the constant winds may aggravate sinuses and dry skin. 263

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NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Customs, Duties, and Passage Travel between the U.S. and Iceland is by air. Icelandair flies 757s daily between Keflavik and New York (a waiver on flying U.S. flag carriers applies). Flying time from New York is about five hours. Icelandair also flies daily to Baltimore, five times a week to Boston, twice a week to Orlando, and four times a week to Minneapolis. Icelandair also flies Luxembourg, Copenhagen, Oslo, Glasgow, and London. All international flights use Keflavik Airport. A reasonably priced airport bus service takes passengers to the Hotel Loftleidir near downtown Reykjavik. A passport is required, but no visa is needed for tourist or business stays of up to three months. U.S. citizens should be aware, however, that because of Iceland's participation in the Nordic Passport Union, the three-month period begins as soon as they enter the Nordic area (i.e., D e n m a r k , G r e e n l a n d , Fa e r o e Islands, Finland, Norway, Sweden or Iceland.) For further information concerning entry requirements for Iceland, contact the Embassy of Iceland at 1156 15th Street N.W., Suite 1200, Washington, D.C. 20005, tel (202) 265-6653, or the Icelandic Consulate General in New York at 800 Third Avenue, 36th Floor, New York, NY 10022, tel (212) 593-2700. See also the Embassy's web site at http://www.iceland.org. Americans living in or visiting Iceland may register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Reykjavik and obtain updated information on travel and security within Iceland. The U.S. Embassy is located at Laufasvegur 21, tel (354) 562-9100; fax (354) 562-9118.

Pets Importation of live animals into the country is rigidly controlled by Ice264

landic law. You must apply to the Ministry for Agriculture for permission to bring a pet into the country. If permission is granted by the state veterinary surgeon, the pet owner must bring with the animal a certificate of health (issued within the week before departure from the U.S.) and a vaccination certificate. These documents must be attached to the permit upon arrival in Iceland. Precautions must be taken to ensure that the animal does not come into contact with other animals en route. On arrival the pet will be taken immediately to the quarantine area in Hrisey (an island in the north of Iceland), where it will be examined by the quarantine veterinarian. Quarantine. The quarantine period is 6 weeks for pets coming directly from the U.K., Norway, and Sweden. Animals coming from elsewhere have an 8-week quarantine. Pit Bulls and Sharpees are banned from Iceland. Special permission must be sought to import a Rottweiler or Doberman. The cost of quarantining a cat coming from the U.S. is about Ikr70,00085,000 (1999: $969-$1,176). The cost of quarantining a dog ranges from Ikr80,000-140,000 (1999: about $1,107-$1,937), depending on the size of the animal. Separate charges are made for medication and tests. The pet owner must also pay for the animal's transportation to and from Hrisey. If these conditions are not met, quarantine not implemented, or the animal becomes sick with a disease unknown in Iceland, the owner is obliged to agree to have the animal put to sleep without compensation. The owner is also responsible for any damage caused by the animal during quarantine. The importation permit can be canceled without notice or cause. Be aware that once your pet reaches Reykjavik, you will need to pay additional fees to allow it to remain in the city. (1999: about $120 for first year, and about $105 for each following year.)

Firearms and Ammunition The importation of firearms is restricted under Icelandic law.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The official basic unit of currency is the Icelandic crown (krona, plural kronur abbreviated Ikr). In December 1999, the official exchange rate was U.S.$1=Ikr 72.27. Currency exchange facilities are adequate. The National Bank in R e y k j av i k a n d t h e M er ch a n t s National Bank at the NATO base accept personal checks, travelers checks, and other negotiable notes in exchange for Icelandic kronur at the legal rate. It is difficult to change kronur to dollars outside Iceland. Foreign (non-U.S.) currency may be imported from all Scandinavian and other European countries, according to the currency control regulations of the country concerned. The National Bank of Iceland in Reykjavik will accept such currency and exchange it for Icelandic kronur. You can pay hotel room charges with travelers checks, major credit cards, or U.S. currency. Larger restaurants in Reykjavik may accept both currencies, and nearly all accept credit cards. Most business places (including McDonald's, most small kiosks, and grocery stores) in Reykjavik accept dollars in small denominations, as well as credit cards. A sales tax is levied on all goods, services, and food items sold in Iceland. On most goods, the rate is 24.5%; for some food items, books and magazines, the rate is 14%. While the English system of weights and measures is familiar to most Icelanders, the official system is the metric system, as in other European countries.

Special Circumstances Extreme care should be exercised when touring Iceland's numerous nature attractions, which include

Iceland

Cities of the World glaciers, volcanic craters, lava fields, ice caves, hot springs, boiling mud pots, geysers, waterfalls and glacial rivers. There are few warning signs or barriers to alert travelers to the potential hazards. For e x a m p l e, s e v e r a l t o u r i s t s a r e scalded each year because they get too close to an erupting geyser, or because they fall or step into a hot spring or boiling mud pot. High winds and icy conditions can exacerbate the dangers of visiting these nature areas.

June 17 . . . . . . . . . Icelandic National Day Aug. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Bank Holiday Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day Dec. 31 . . . . . . . . . New Year's Eve *variable

Also be aware that Iceland is occasionally subject to natural disasters in the form of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, avalanches, and violent storms. Learn how to prepare for and react to such events by consulting the web site of Iceland's National Civil Defense Agency at http://www.avrik.is. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) at http://www.fema.gov.

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1. . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Maundy Thursday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Apr. . . . . . . . . . . . . First Day of Summer* May 1. . . . . . . . . . . Iceland Labor Day May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Whitsunday* May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday*

RECOMMENDED READING

American-Scandinavian Review. American-Scandinavian Foundation. 127 East 73d St., NY 10021. (Articles on Iceland often appear in this review.)

Iceland (Insight Guides). ed. Tony Perrottet. Houghton Mifflin: Boston, 1995. Iceland Review. “Iceland: Country and People.” Iceland Review. (This magazine also publishes the daily news on: www.centrum.is/icerev.is/daily 1 . h t m l ) Jo n e s, G w y n . T h e Vikings. Oxford University Press. Laxness, Halldor Kiljan. Independent People (1945). Vintage Books (Random House): New York, 1997. L i n k l a t e r, E r i c. Th e U l t i m a t e Viking. The Macmillan Company: New York, 1950.

Auden, WH. Letters from Iceland.

Magnusson, Sigurdur A. Icelandic C ru c i bl e : A M o de r n Ar t i s t i c Renaissance. Vaka Publishers: Reykjavik, 1985.

Byock, Jesse L. Medieval Iceland: Society, Sagas, and Power. University of California Press: Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1988.

Morris, William (introduction by Magnus Magnusson). Icelandic Journals. Mare's Nest Publishing: London, 1996.

Byock, Jesse L. Feud in the Icelandic Saga. University of California Press: Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1982. Byock, Jesse L. “Egilsi Bones,” Scientific American. January 1995, vol. 272 (#1), pp. 63-67. Gislason, Gylfi Th. and Almenna Bokafelagid. The Problem of Being an Icelander: Past, Present, and Future. Reykjavik, 1973. (Translated by Peter Kidson Karlsson.) Hjalmarsson, Jon R. History of Iceland: From the Settlement to the Present Day., 1993.

Nordal, Johannes, and Kristinsson, Valdimar, eds. Iceland 1996. Central Bank of Iceland: Reykjavik, 1997. Roberts, Dorothy James, ed. Fire in the Ice. Peter Davis: London, 1961. Sutton, George M. Iceland Summer. University of Oklahoma Press: Norman, 1961. Tomasson, Richard E. Iceland, The First New Society. University of M i n n e s o t a P r e s s, I c e l a n d i c Review: Reykjavik, 1980.

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Dublin, Ireland

IRELAND

Major Cities: Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Galway, Waterford Other Cities: Cashel, Cavan, Cóbh, Dún Laoghaire, Kilkenny, Killarney, Tralee, Wexford

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Ireland. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION It is said that Ireland, once visited, is never forgotten. The Irish landscape has a mythic resonance, due as much to the country's almost tangible history as its claim to being the home of the fairies and the “little people.” Sure, the weather may not always be clement, but the dampness ensures there are 50 shades of green to compensate, just one of the reasons Ireland is called the Emerald Isle. Scattered mountains and hills rim a central plain, where the River Shannon flows past green woodlands, pastures, and peat bogs. Ireland was the seat of learning and sent scholar-missionaries throughout Europe in the Dark Ages. Now it

draws visitors with a composite charm shaped of lilting laughter, Irish eyes, and the Blarney Stone; of soils man-made from seaweed and sand in the harsh Aran Islands, or palms waving in warm Glengarriff, of Donegal's lava and Killarney's lakes; of voluble, tempestuous people with a remarkable roll of literary lights-such names as Swift, Yeats, Wilde, Shaw, Joyce, O'Casey, Synge. Eight centuries of strife with Britain brought formal establishment of the republic in 1949. Its name in Gaelic is tire. Although English is the main language of Ireland, it's spoken with a mellifluous lilt and a peculiar way of structuring sentences, to be sure. There remain areas of western and southern Ireland, known as the Gaeltacht, where Irish is the native language-they include parts of Kerry, Galway, Mayo, the Aran Islands, and Donegal. Since Independence in 1921, the Republic of Ireland has declared itself to be bilingual, and many documents and road signs are printed in both Irish and English. Jigging an evening away to Irish folk music is one of the joys of a trip to Ireland. Most traditional music is performed on fiddle, tin whistle, goatskin drum, and pipes. Almost every village seems to have a pub renowned for its music where you can show up and find a

session in progress, even join in if you feel so inclined. Irish meals are usually based around meat-in particular, beef, lamb and pork chops. Traditional Irish breads and scones are also delicious, and other traditional dishes include bacon and cabbage, a cake-like bread called barm brack and a filled pancake called a boxty. Though the nation's charms are fabled, it faces problems. The “troubles” are far from over in the North, but the recent referendum clearly signaled a willingness for peace and a genuine solution may be in sight. The country is home to one of the most gregarious and welcoming people in Europe.

MAJOR CITIES Dublin Like most ancient cities, Dublin lies sprawled along a river. In fact, three visible and underground rivers converge and flow into the Irish Sea. The greatest of these is the Liffey, which has divided Dublin into north and south for more than 1,000 years, much as tracks divide the core of a railroad town. Today, 267

Ireland nearly one-third of the Irish population live in the greater Dublin area. It is the political, cultural, and economic heart of the nation. The great public buildings, the red brick Georgian rowhouses, and the fine parks that give the city its distinctive character originated in the 18th century. The Grand and Royal Canals encircle the Georgian core of the city. Quaint shop fronts and pubs of the 19th and early 20th centuries add to the flavor of downtown. Dublin has begun reclaiming some of the historic past, though many once-fine areas have decayed badly from years of poverty and neglect. New office developments have changed the city center's skyline. The outer rim is ringed by newly built housing tracts and industrial parks. The quays along the Liffey River are beginning to change the image of a rundown seaport. New business has started to develop as well as seafront apartment buildings. Small villages, until this century a short journey away, are now enclosed within the city's sprawl.

Cities of the World Utilities Single-phase, 200v-220v, 50-cycle, AC electricity is standard throughout Ireland. Outlets take Britishtype three-prong plugs. The wiring in many houses cannot take heavy loads. American 60-cycle clocks will not operate satisfactorily in Ireland. Most types of electrical equipment are available locally; however, they are more expensive.

Food Food in Dublin is more expensive than in the U.S. Meats, poultry, and fish are sold year round. Greengrocers offer a wider range of imported fruits and vegetables, but prices are higher than at supermarkets. Fresh meats and produce in Ireland pose no special hygiene problems. Canned fruits and juices are available, and good-quality dairy and bakery products abound. Baby food in cans and jars can be found in any supermarket. Although most shopping needs can be met through diligent shopping, bring special spices and condiments to prepare favorite ethnic dishes.

Clothing Dublin, whose name in Irish (Gaelic) is Baile Átha Cliath, was a Norse stronghold in the ninth century. The forces of Brian Boru, high king of Ireland, took the site in a fierce battle at nearby Clontarf in 1014, forever ending Danish claim to the territory. In 1172, Richard Strongbow, the earl of Pembroke, captured the city for England; it was given a charter and made the center of the Pale, the indefinite limits around Dublin which were dominated by English rule (hence the saying, “beyond the Pale”). All of Ireland was besieged and colonized in the ensuing centuries, but Dublin enjoyed a period of prosperity in the l a t e 1 7 0 0 s, d u r i n g t e m p o r a r y respite from English authority. Intense nationalist efforts arose during the 19th century. On April 24, 1916, Dublin was the scene of the bloody and unsuccessful Easter Rebellion against British rule. It was not until 1922 that the Irish Free State was finally established. 268

Because of the cool damp climate, woolens can be worn most of the year. Even in summer, light cotton clothing is rarely worn. Irish houses are frequently cold compared to t h o s e i n t h e U. S. I n s e l e c t i n g clothes, include sweaters, gloves, scarves, and sturdy weatherproof coats and footwear. Flannel pajamas and bed socks are desirable for overnight travel and even at home. Rainwear for adults and children can be purchased locally at reasonable prices. Ready-made clothing of all types is sold in Dublin. Good-quality articles, especially woolens and shoes, are expensive but on par with U.S. prices for similar quality. Narrow shoe sizes are hard to find. Men: Good-quality, ready-made, and tailor-fitted wool suits can be found at reasonable prices in Dublin. Nonetheless, bring several medium- or heavyweight wool suits, a topcoat, and a raincoat. Although

dark suits are worn for most evening functions, a black dinner jacket (tuxedo) is occasionally required. Tuxedos and other formal wear can be rented or purchased locally. Women: Department stores and discount stores stock a wide choice of fashions for women, priced according to quality. Comfortable closed walking shoes are invaluable. Boots are preferred by many during the winter. Although you can easily find a wide choice from fashions to shoes and accessories, it is advisable to bring complete wardrobes. Children: Although quality is good, clothes can be very expensive for growing children. Bring complete children's wardrobes, anticipating larger sizes that will be needed. Good-quality sweaters and rainwear can be bought locally at reasonable prices. School uniforms are required and most items must be purchased at specified stores.

Supplies and Services Cosmetics, toiletries, cigarettes, home medicines, and drugs are sold locally in considerable variety at prices abo ve those in the U.S. English, French, and a few American brands are sold. Bring special cosmetics and home medicines if preferred, including sufficient prescription drugs to last until arrangements can be made with a local pharmacy. Most essential conveniences commonly used for housekeeping, entertaining, and household repairs are obtainable locally. All basic community services, such as drycleaning, tailoring, beauty and barbershops, and shoe and auto repairs, are available in Dublin. A few dressmakers are also available. Mechanical services do not measure up to American standards. Delays are common, appointments are a must, and the quality of workmanship varies widely.

Religious Activities Numerous religious denominations hold regular services in DublinRoman Catholic, Church of Ireland

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Courtesy of Thomas Musthaler

Street in Dublin, Ireland

(Anglican), Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Lutheran, Greek Orthodox, Christian Science, Congregational, Evangelical, Seventh-day Adventist, Moravian, Socie t y o f F r i e n d s, M o r m o n , a n d Unitarian churches, four Jewish congregations, and the Dublin Islamic Center.

Education Private primary and secondary schools are good. Instruction is in English. Credits are usually accepted in the U.S. for schoolwork completed in Dublin. A typical curriculum in a Dublin secondary school includes English, Irish (foreign students are exempted on request), mathematics, geography, history, foreign languages, science, art, music, and physical training. Athletic activities include rugby, soccer, netball, track & field, crick et, hurling, field hockey, swimming, and tennis.

Instruction in dancing, riding, music, and art is available at extra cost. Depending on the location, many p ar e n t s c a n no t r e l y o n p u b l i c transportation and must drive their children to and from school. Most American children attend St. Andrew's College. Founded by the Presbyterians, St. Andrew's is now a nonsecta rian, c oeducational school with a curriculum comparable to those in the U.S., although sequence of coursework follows the Irish system. American secondary students may opt to follow either the Irish School Leaving or International Baccalaureate curriculum during their last 2 years. Credit is easily transferred to U.S. schools. With the aid of a State Department grant, the school has an American teacher of U.S. studies. The Irish grading system is more rigorous. Report cards are meant to be shared

only by the student, parents, and teachers. American college applicants need special guidance in preparing applications that adequately explain the Irish system or their reported grades may often appear low. St. Andrew's College will prepare transcripts for U.S. colleges t h a t e x p l a i n I r is h g r a d e s. S t. Andrew's is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges, Ireland's Department of Education, and the European Council of International Schools. Irish ninth graders must take a rigorous examination called the Junior Certificate. The examination covers a 3-year cycle in mathematics, science, English, history, geography, Irish, and business studies. Although foreign students who have not made the entire cycle may be exempted from the exam, some may choose to take it as much of the ninth year is spent preparing for it. 269

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The 10th year is seen as a decompression year sandwiched between the high pressure Junior Certificate exam and the even more intense Leaving Certificate test held at the end of the senior (12th grade) year of high school. Although the Ministry of Education dictates the subjects covered during the 10th grade, methods of instruction differ from school to school. It is the only opportunity Irish students have to sample many different subjects without the pressure of external examination. The 11th and 12th grades are geared to passing the highly competitive Leaving Certificate, the key to admission to Irish universities. Although foreign students may be exempted from the Leaving Certificate, juniors and seniors should join their Irish classmates in preparing for it. Leaving Certificate studies provide good preparation for the American SAT examinations that are also given in Dublin. School uniforms are required for students. Our Junior School. The Junior School has its own principal and specially trained staff. The full range of elementary education subjects is taught: reading, writing, mathematics, environmental studies, art, music, nature study, handwork, Irish, Latin, a basic introduction to continental languages, and computer studies. Project work, physical education, and sports are also an important part of the curriculum. The final year of the Junior School course is specially designed to prepare pupils for transition to the Senior School. This transition takes place at the age of 11-12. Saint Andrew's also receives a large influx of pupils from other elementary schools at this stage.

Special Educational Opportunities Dublin has five universities-Trinity College, University College Dublin, Dublin City University, American 270

College, Portobello College. Some technical, business, and professional (e.g., medicine, law) courses have higher fees. Ample opportunities exist for continuing education in Dublin through the universities, community and vocational schools, and foreign cultural institutes. A Guide to Evening Classes in Dublin is published each fall and also lists many daytime classes and activities for children. Purchase it at any bookstore or newsstand. In addition to such things as crafts, hobbies, business, and domestic sk ills, nearly all community and vocational schools offer lessons in Irish. Many schools offer classes on Irish culture, history, literature, and music and dance.

Sports Despite the changeable weather, the Irish are great sports enthusiasts. Many opportunities exist for the active sportsperson and spectator alike. The Irish Tourist Board, “Bord Failte,” has detailed information on sports activities. All equipment and clothing for locally popular sports are sold in Dublin. Horse racing is a central feature of Irish sporting life. Irish horses have a fine record in events in England and other countries. Several leading courses are within easy reach of Dublin. The world-famous Irish Derby, the Irish St. Ledger, the Guinness Oaks, and other events are held at the Curragh in County Kildare, about an hour's drive from Dublin. The flat racing season is March to November. Steeplechase meetings take place throughout the year. Point to Point meetings are held in the spring. Racecourses within easy reach of Dublin are: Leopardstown, Fairyhouse, Nass, the Curragh, Navan, and Punchestown. Greyhound racing is well established with many tracks throughout Ireland. Clomnel, County Tipperary, is the home of the Irish Coursing Club. Many thousands of dogs are registered in the Irish studbook each year, and greyhounds are a major Irish export.

Good riding stables are located near Dublin, and dozens more across the country offer both instruction and horses for hire. The Irish Horse Board, “Bord nag Capall,” publishes a pamphlet called Where to Ride in Ireland. Fish are plentiful in the rivers, lakes, and coastal waters of Ireland. The most common are lake and sea trout, salmon, and coarse fish. Although the best salmon streams are privately owned and strictly controlled, you can arrange a lease for a specified period at a moderate price. In addition, salmon and trout fishing are free in many areas subject only to the boat and boatman's hire fees. Those traveling to western Ireland for their angling can make all the arrangements, including any required permits, through their hotel or guesthouse. Sea fishing is good all around the Irish coast; the more popular areas are off the coasts of Cork, Mayo, Kerry and Wexford. Hunting in Ireland usually means fox hunting, but there are also stag hunts and harriers. The season st ar t s in O c to b e r a n d e n d s i n March. Club hunting takes place from September to November; these events are held early in the morning and arrangements can be made through a riding stable or the Honorary Secretary of the Hunt. Shooting facilities in Ireland for sportsmen are limited and strictly controlled. Firearms certificates and hunting licenses are generally issued to visitors who have access to bona fide shooting arrangements or who have made advance booking with a recognized shoot; the number of certificates granted in respect to each shoot is controlled. Excellent shooting grounds, especially in the west of Ireland can be found. For queries on how to obtain a firearm certificate, you may call the Irish Department of Justice at 01-6028202. Within 20 miles of Dublin, you can find more than 45 private and public golf courses in all, many situated in splendid surroundings. Visitors

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Courtesy of Peter Gareffa

Trinity College in Dublin

are welcome at any club. Membership is difficult to obtain, some clubs have a 12-year waiting list, and is very expensive, since temporary membership fees are nonrefundable. It is possible to play on these courses for modest greens fees. The most popular courses in Dublin are Carrickmines, Elm Park, Killiney, and Portmarnock. Dublin has many tennis, badminton, and squash clubs. Membership in these can also be expensive and difficult to arrange, and nonmembers are not permitted to use the courts. Public tennis courts are also available, but they can be crowded on weekends and evenings in summer. Camping, hill walking, and cycling are popular. Access to mountain and moorland trails is free. The Irish Tourist Board has information on campgrounds, national parks and

f o r e s t s, o r g a n i z e d t r a i l s, a n d hostels. Strong winds and rough seas limit water activities. Swimming is popular among the Irish who are not deterred by the cold water. Dublin also has scuba diving schools and clubs that offer introductory lessons. Yachting is popular for those who can afford it, with centers located in Dublin and Cork harbors. Rowing is more popular than yachting, and numerous rowing clubs abound. The rivers and canals are easily navigated and offer beautiful countryside. You can also hire cruise boats for a splendid holiday on the Shannon River. Irish hurling, a kind of field hockey, is one of the world's fastest field games. Hockey sticks and head injuries symbolize this rough-and-tumble sport. Camogue, a woman's game based on hurling, is played by many schoolgirls. Gaelic football is

related to rugby and soccer. The annual all-Ireland finals of both hurling and Gaelic football command national attention. Both games are regulated by the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), founded in 1884 and a major force in the national revival movement in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Handball, played with an extremely fast hard ball, is also a traditional game in Ireland. Many young people play rugby, cricket, and soccer at school and in athletic clubs.

Touring and Outdoor Activities In and around Dublin are many places of interest to visit. In the oldest part of the city are the Church of Ireland Cathedrals of St. Patrick and Christ Church, and other interesting churches such as St. Michan's. You may visit Dublin Castle, parts of which date to the 13th century, which was the center of 271

Ireland British rule in Ireland for centuries. Many fine 18th-century public buildings are open to the public, including the Bank of Ireland, formerly the Parliament House; Leinster House, seat of the Dail; Mansion House, residence of Dubl i n ' s L o r d M ay o r ; t h e C u s t o m House; Four Courts and King's Inn; the General Post Office; and the earlier Royal Hospital at Kilmainham. Trinity College, aside from its lovely squares and notable buildings, houses the nation's finest library. Among the famous manuscripts and early printed books is the Book of K e l ls, a m as t e r pie ce o f Cel ti c illumination. Dublin also offers a small number of very interesting museums. The National Museum houses the finest collection of Irish antiquities and an assortment of decorative arts. The National Gallery of Ireland contains an important collection of European paintings, while the emphasis at the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery is on changing exhibitions of contemporary work. The Chester Beatty Library and Gallery of Oriental Art is devoted to the arts of the book and offers changing selections from one of the world's great collections of Islamic and Asian manuscripts. Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum is the prison that held generations of Irish patriots. Within its walls, the leaders of the 1916 uprising were executed. It reopened in 1966 as a historical museum and has conducted tours. Several beautiful parks can be found throughout Dublin. Phoenix Park, one of the world's largest urban parks, encloses the Zoological Gardens and the residences of the President of Ireland and the U.S. Ambassador. The National Botanic Gardens are located in Glasnevin in north Dublin. The fine Georgian squares of Dublin-St. Stephen's Green, Merrion Square, and Fitzwilliam Square-are also worth seeing. Well-preserved rows of Georgian houses surround Fitzwilliam and Merrion Squares. 272

Cities of the World Within an hour's drive of Dublin are many historic sights. Beautifully situated in the Wicklow Mountains are the ruins of the medieval, monastic community of Glendalough. The Hill of Tara, the ancient religious, political, and cultural capital of Ireland, lies north of the city. In a better state of preservation are two great houses-Castletown House and Russborough House; a castle, Malahide Castle; and the magnificent gardens of Powerscourt. Rising just south of the city, the Wicklow Mountains offer grand scenery of green hills, bogs, forest, lakes, and waterfalls for those who like to hike, cycle, camp, or just go for a day's drive from the city. Ireland is a small country; you can reach almost any point within a 5hour drive from Dublin. The roads are paved, but mostly narrow and winding. The Irish countryside offers a change of scenery. The western coastline attracts many tourists with its sea cliffs and low-lying but rugged mountains: the Ring of Kerry, the Cliffs of Moher, and further north, the wild countrysides of Connemara and Donegal. On the Aran Islands off Galway Bay, the everyday language is Irish, and many aspects of traditional life are preserved. Indeed, in the villages and farms, you may glimpse the slower, more traditional lifestyle of the Irish. Among the sights to explore are many ruined and restored castles such as Blarney, near Cork, with its fabled stone of eloquence; Bunratty, which holds nightly medieval banquets; and the well- preserved stronghold at Cahir. Medieval churches and monasteries include the great complex atop a rocky outcropping at Cashel, the ancient monastic city of Clonmacnoise, the Romanesque church at Clonfert, and the Gothic abbeys of Jerpoint and Holycross. The country is littered with pre-Christian ring forts, stone circles, and tombs. One of the best is Newgrange, 30 miles north of Du blin. At the Cr aggaunowen Project near Limerick, a neolithic ring fort and island crannog (lake

dwelling) have been completely reconstructed. Many great houses of the 18th and 19th centuries are open to the public, including Muckross House, overlooking the lakes of K i l l a r n e y, B a n t r y H o u s e, a n d Westport.

Entertainment Downtown Dublin has a dozen movie theaters, several of them multiscreen cinemas, showing recent American and British films, usually within a few months of their release. The Abbey, Peacock, and Gate Theaters are among the best theaters in Dublin, and each presents a new play every month or two. The Gaiety and Olympia also present frequent changing shows ranging from serious dramas to musical reviews and rock concerts. Several small playhouses are active in Dublin and present first-rate theater. During the Dublin Theater Festival in the fall, dozens of foreign troupes perform. The Dublin Grand Opera Society and Dublin City Ballet are not world-class companies but do provide appealing entertainment. The RTE (Radio Telefis Eireann) Symphony Orchestra performs regularly at the National Concert Hall. Many visiting chamber groups and soloists keep the musical calendar full. For traditional Irish music, attend major concerts or simply frequent one of the “singing pubs,” where informal sessions are regularly held. Dublin has several cabaret shows, mostly a combination of folk musicians, singers, dancers, and comedians. Choose from among several discos, nightclubs, and ice-skating rinks for an evening out. The most complete guide to regular and changing events is published in the biweekly magazine, In Dublin. A publication by the Dublin Tourism Board, The Events Guide in Dublin, is published biweekly and is also a good guide.

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© Richard Cummins/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

National monument in Cork, Ireland

Many music festivals are held during the year. Among the more intere s t i n g a r e t h e We x f o r d O p e r a Festival, the Kilkenny Arts Week, and the Festival of Music in Great Irish Houses. The Royal Dublin Society's Spring Show, similar to a U.S. county fair, and the Horse Show in August present trade, livestock, and flower displays and some of the finest horse and pony jumping in Europe. Dublin has many restaurants. Some are expensive, and the quality is generally excellent. Basic meals are wholesome and filling. Many pubs serve lunch and some have evening meals available. Numerous clubs and classes in Dublin are open for membership and include: hunting, swimming, horseback riding, boating, yachting, shooting, fishing, hurling, Gaelic football, handball, squash, tennis, rugby, soccer, athletic, tenpin bowl-

ing, lawn bowling, cricket, camping, hiking, cycling, dieting, automobile, social, and cultural.

Social Activities Americans living in Dublin include business representatives, students, spouses of Irish citizens, and many U.S. citizens of Irish background who reside in Ireland. A me r i ca n w o me n ca n j o in t h e American Women's Club. In addition to regular meetings, the club offers diverse interest groups and courses on Irish cultural heritage and tours. The International Women's Club formed in 1982. The Club is composed of representatives from the various missions posted in Dublin, foreign women who have resided in Dublin a long time, and representatives from Ireland.

The Irish people are noted for their hospitality and affability. Ties between Irish and American families can be a key feature of Irish American relationships. Social entertainment outside the home usually consists of restaurant dinners or receptions. Members of the Rotary Club and Masonic Lodges can also attend regular meetings.

Cork Cork, on the River Lee, is a principal port city with a long history of rebellion against English oppression. It is said to date from the seventh century, and was occupied and walled about two centuries later by the Danes. It established allegiance to England in 1172 but, during and after the Middle Ages, experienced much discontent and rebellion. Cork figured prominently in the 1920 fight for independence. Many of its beautiful public buildings were destroyed during the disturbances, 273

Ireland and its lord assassinated.

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was

Cork, whose old meaning is “marsh,” has a population of approximately 133,000. It is Ireland’s second largest city and a major shipping and brewing center. On Great Island in Cork Harbor, is Cóbh (formerly Queenstown), the starting point for the hundreds of immigrant vessels sailing for the New World in the last century. Cork received its charter in 1185 from Henry II of England, and recently celebrated its 800th anniversary as a city with parades, festivals, regattas, and a full season of drama and music. Historical pageants revived ancient stories and traditions. The city of Cork offers many attractions, among them noted University College (formerly Queen’s); a fine municipal school of art with renowned galleries; churches and cathedrals, including St. Finn Barre’s, on whose site the original community was established; a fascinating open-air market; and a popular race course. The Royal Cork Yacht Club, the first of its kind in the world, was founded in 1720 at the seaside village of Crosshaven in Cork Harbor; it remains the site of international races and Irish championships today. A few miles from Cork is the mecca of Ireland’s tourist attractions, Blarney Castle, whose famous Kissing Stone is reputed to bestow the gift of eloquence (or, more specifically, skillful flattery). The castle is in two sections—the narrow tower and battlements and, below, the fortress in whose wall the Kissing Stone is set. The small village of Blarney, now a craft center, was once a linen and wool hub. A number of market and seaport towns surround Cork, some in the spacious upland country to the northwest, others in the rolling farmlands and along the coast. 274

Limerick Limerick, in the southwest of Ireland, is a familiar spot to the hundreds of thousands of travelers who use nearby Shannon Airport. It is a city replete with relics of Ireland’s past, but also a bustling business, dairy, and agricultural center, and a hub for the salmon industry. Limerick is famous for the making of beautiful lace. The population here is about 56,200, but a drive through the narrow, crowded streets gives the impression of a much larger city. During rush hour, traffic often is at a standstill. L i m e r i c k w a s E n g l a n d ’s f i r s t stronghold after the Revolution of 1688, and became known as the City of the Violated Treaty, a reference to the oft-violated agreement of political and religious rights which was signed with England in 1691. The Treaty Stone is preserved as a monument to the breached covenant. Limerick was a Norse settlement in the ninth and 10th centuries, and was chartered in 1197. King John’s Castle, built in the following cent u r y, i s a m o n g t h e s t r u c t u r e s remaining from that era. St. Mary’s Cathedral, even older, is another interesting historical spot here. Close to Limerick are Adare, Ireland’s prize-winning village; and the national forest park of Currahchase, once an estate belonging to the 19th-century poet, Sir Aubrey de Vere.

Galway Galway, the most Gaelic of the Irish cities, faces the Atlantic on the west coast of the republic. The Spanish influence of its early traders still is conspicuous in much of its architecture and in the colorful dress of its people. Galway and the surrounding area are known for unsurpassed salmon fishing (in the Corrib River) and for the many and extensive oyster beds. An annual international oyster-opening competition, the longest running of Ireland’s festivals, is held at Clarenbridge in County Galway; until recent years,

when the festival became so large that it could no longer be accommodated there, its site was the nearby village of Kilcolgan, on the Weir. The population of Galway proper is about 50,800. In the midst of the Great Famine of the last century, the town was a teeming way station for immigrants bound for the United States. In earlier times, it was known as the “City of the Tribes” because of the 14 families (or tribes) who settled and developed it. Galway became a flourishing center for trade with Spain and France. The city itself is the center of what is called the “haunting wilderness of the west.” The surrounding area is Yeats country, and was described by writer Eilís Dillon during Galway’s fifth centenary celebration in 1984 as a “land of soft mists and silences.” In this part of the country, the Irish language (not generally called Gaelic) is heard often in the shops and pubs and on radio and television. Galway was a major seaport in medieval times but, according to Áras Fáilte (the Ireland West Board of Tourism), the town fell into decline during the next few centuries by backing the losing side in England’s civil wars and other upheavals. The famine of 1846–47 produced such heavy setbacks that it was not until the beginning of this century that Galway began its regrowth toward prosperity and prominence. Among the city’s many points of interest are St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church, built in 1320, and known by legend as the spot where Christopher Columbus attended mass before setting sail for America; University College, constituent of the National University of Ireland; Lynch’s Castle, built in 1600 and now housing a bank; the Claddagh, an ancient fishing village across the river; Galway City Museum at the Spanish Arch; and the new Cathedral of Our Lady and St. Nicholas, built in 1965 on the outskirts of the central city.

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Cities of the World Across Galway Bay, about 30 miles from the mainland, lie the Aran Islands (Arana Naomh) of Inishmore, Inishmaan, and Inisheer, communities of fishermen and subsistence farmers who live and work much as they did centuries ago. The men still fish in currachs, traditional canvas crafts, and the women still spin and weave their wool and knit the famous Aran sweaters which withstand the brutal winds and waters of the Atlantic. Irish is spoken here more than English, and there is a primitive quality to the islands that creates much interest for tourists and native Irishmen alike. The prehistoric architectural remains are in extraordinary condition. Kilronan, on Inishmore, is the chief town. It is possible to reach the islands by boat or air ferry.

Waterford Waterford, on the River Suir, is a port city in the southeast of Ireland. It has a population of approximately 39,500. Once a walled Danish settlement named Vradrefjord, it is now called Port Láirge in the Irish language. Waterford is probably known best throughout the world for the magnificent and much-coveted lead crystal which is manufactured here, but it also has other major industries, such as meat packing and dairy production. Waterford has many places of interest. The towers of the Franciscan and Dominican monasteries date to the 13th century, a time soon after the charter of Waterford was issued by King John. There are both Catholic and Protestant cathedrals in the city (episcopal sees are located here) and St. John’s College, a Protestant theological seminary. Sections remain of the city walls, built at the time of the Danish invasion, as does a massive fortress erected in the early years of the 11th century. Each year, Waterford hosts the Festival of Light Opera, drawing visitors from throughout the British Isles and parts of Europe. Other major activities in the area include horse racing and golf at the nearby resort of Tramore.

OTHER CITIES CASHEL, in County Tipperary, southern Ireland, is famed for its Rock of Cashel, on which are the ruins of an ancient cathedral and tower. Cashel was the seat of the kings of Munster. Legend has it that it was here St. Patrick explained the Trinity by using a three-leaf clover. The town itself is small, with a population of about 2,500, but tourist activity swells its numbers considerably during the summer months. CAVAN, the capital of County Cavan, is located in northeastern Ireland, about 60 miles north of Dublin. Cavan, situated in a rural county, produces bacon. The town developed around a Franciscan monastery during the 1300s; only the bell tower still stands. Cavan suffered damages in 1690 under repeated attacks by William III’s English forces. The city has a modern Roman Catholic cathedral. Its population is around 3,300. Situated nine miles southeast of Cork, CÓBH is a city of 6,590 in s o u t h w e s t e r n I r e l a n d . I t wa s renamed Queenstown in 1849 to honor Queen Victoria’s visit, but resumed its ancient name in 1922. An important port of call for mail steamers and ocean liners, (the Titanic made her last port of call here) Cóbh has excellent facilities for docking. On the dock here is memorial to the victims of the Lusitania, many of whom are buried in the old church cemetery. The ship was sunk off Kinsdale in 1915 by a German submarine, thus bring the United States into World War I. DÚN LAOGHAIRE (pronounced Dun Leary), lies six miles down the seacoast from Dublin. It is the main steamer terminus and mail port on the Irish Sea, and is a major sailing and regatta center. It also is the terminus for the car ferry from Holyhead (Wales). Its Martello Tower houses a James Joyce museum, and some of the author’s original manuscripts are kept here.

KILKENNY, home of the 16th-century College of St. John, is located in the southeastern part of the country. It has a noted castle and cathedral. Its modern Kilkenny Design Workshops, which encourage and promote the work of Irish designers, have created much interest both in and outside of Ireland. Retail stores connected with the workshops are here in the town, and also in central Dublin. Kilkenny, a parliamentary seat in the mid-14th century, has a population of approximately 10,000. KILLARNEY is a noted tourist spot in the center of the beautiful lake country. Traveling by car from the city, one can drive through the famous “Ring of Kerry,” 110 miles of breathtaking beauty and enchantment, and one of the most spectacular drives in all of Europe. An unusual aspect of this journey deep into Ireland’s southwest is the surprise of finding palm trees growing in a country thought to be cool and damp most of the year. The coastline temperatures here are warmed by the Gulf Stream, and subtropical vegetation becomes apparent in the farthest reaches of this corner of the nation. The town of Killarney, which is the urban district of County Kerry, has a population of around 8,000. TRALEE, 20 miles northwest of Killarney, is a seaport and the capital city of County Kerry. Its population is about 14,000. It was in this city that William Mulchinock wrote the popular ballad, The Rose of Tralee, during the mid-1800s. WEXFORD, in southeast Ireland, is a seaport city of approximately 12,000 residents. The town was long held by Anglo-Norman invaders, and some of its early fortifications remain. An international opera festival is sponsored here annually in late autumn. 275

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COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The island of Ireland (“Eire” in the Irish language) is divided politically into two parts: Ireland and Northern Ireland. Ireland (informally referred to as the “Republic of Ireland”) contains 26 of the island's 32 counties. Northern Ireland contains the six counties in the northeast and has been administered as a part of the U.K. since partition in 1922. The 26 counties cover 27,136 miles, with the greatest length from north to south being 302 miles and the greatest width 171 miles. Ireland is separated from Britain by the Irish Sea, ranging 60-120 miles across. The central limestone lowland of the island is ringed by a series of coastal mountains. The central plain is primarily devoted to family farming and is also notable for its bogs and lakes. The highest peak is Carrantuohill in Kerry at 3,414 feet. Newcomers are immediately impressed with the beauty and charm of the countryside, which is dotted with historic landmarks and alternating rolling hills and pastures, mountain lake country, and stark sea cliffs. Dublin has a moderate climate. Temperatures range from 16°F to 75°F. The mean temperature during the winter is 40°F; in summer 60°F Annual rainfall is about 30 inches, distributed evenly throughout the year. Noted for its soft weather, rarely do more than a few days go by without at least a shower. Temperatures occasionally drop below freezing during winter, and light snow sometimes falls. During December, there are about 7 hours of daylight and an average of 1½ hours of sunshine. During summer, the average daily sunshine is 6 hours. Mild winds and fog are common and winds of gale proportion may occur, especially at night, from November to May. Humidity is fairly constant, averaging 78%. The climate is similar to that of Seattle, London, and The Hague. 276

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Population The population totals 3.62 million. About a million people are in the greater Dublin area, with approximately 480,000 in the city itself. The next largest city is Cork (180,000), followed by Limerick (79,000), Galway (57,000), and Waterford (44,000). A high birth rate and the end of net emigration for the first time since the mid-19th century have led to a remarkably young population with roughly half under age 30. Although English and Irish (Gaelic) are the official languages, Irish is commonly spoken only in small enclaves, called the Gaeltacht, which are located in the south and west. The government is encouraging a revival of the Irish languag e, which about 5 5,000 natives speak. The population is predominantly Roman Catholic (about 92%). The second largest religious group (about 2.3%) belongs to the Church of Ireland, an independent Anglican Episcopal Church.

Public Institutions After a prolonged struggle for home rule, Ireland received its independence from the U.K. as a free state within the British Commonwealth in 1921. The constitution was revised by referendum in 1937 and declared Ireland a sovereign, independent, democratic state. When the Republic of Ireland Act was passed in 1948, Ireland left the British Commonwealth. Ireland is a parliamentary democracy, governed by the “Oireachtas” (Parliament) of two houses, an elected Uachtarán (President), who is head of state, and a “Taoiseach” (Prime Minister), who is head of government and holds executive powers. The two houses of Parliament are Dáil Éireann and the “Seanad Éireann.” The 166 members of the Dáil called “Teachtaí Dála” or more commonly, T.D's, are elected by vote of all Irish citizens over the age of 18 under a complex system of proportional representation. An election must be held at

least every 5 years. The Dáil nominates the Taoiseach, who selects all other ministers from among the Dáil and the Seanad (but not more than two from the latter). The President, elected by direct popular vote for a 7-year term, formally appoints the Taoiseach. The Seanad has 60 members, 11 nominated by the Taoiseach, and the rest chosen by panels representing the universities and various vocational and cultural interests. Although the Dáil is the main legislative body, the Seanad may initiate bills and pass, amend, or delay, but not veto, the bills sent to it by the Dáil. Ministers exercise the executive power of the state and are responsible to the Dáil. The “Tanaiste” (Deputy Prime Minister) assumes executive responsibility in the absence of the Taoiseach. Under the constitution, the cabinet consists of 7 to 15 members. Junior ministers are also provided. The Taoiseach, Tanaiste, and Minister for Finance must be members of the Dáil. The Taoiseach resigns when his government ceases to retain majority support in the Dáil. The three major political parties are Fianna Fáil Fine Gael, and Labour. Fianna Fáil is Ireland's largest political party and the one that has ruled Ireland more often than any other. Fianna Fáil is currently in a coalition government with the Progressive Democrats, under the leadership of Taoiseach Bertie Ahern, after winning a June 1997 election. The government must call the next election by the year 2002, but also may do so before that time. A merger between Labour and the small Democratic Left was approved by both parties in December 1998. Ireland considers itself militarily neutral and is not a member of NATO. Since 1973, Ireland has been a member of the European Community. Irish law is based on English common law, statute law, and the 1937

Ireland

Cities of the World Constitution. All judges exercise their functions independently, subject only to the constitution and the law. Appointed by the President, they may be removed from office only for misbehavior or incapacity, and then only by a resolution of both houses of the Oireachtas. Ireland has a multitiered court system. The district and circuit courts have wide civil jurisdiction and, in addition, may try all serious offenses except murder and treason. Most civil and criminal trials take place before a judge and a jury of 12 citizens. The High Court has original jurisdiction over all matters civil and criminal, but normally handles only appeals from the lower courts and rules on questions of constitutionality in an appeal or a bill referred by the President. Its members also sit on the Central Criminal Court and the Court of Criminal Appeals. The Supreme Court is the Court of Final Appeal and is empowered to hear appeals from the High Court, the Court of Criminal Appeals, and the Circuit Court, and to decide on questions of constitutional law. Its president is the Chief Justice of Ireland.

Arts, Science, and Education T r a d i t i o n a l l y, t h e I r i s h h a v e excelled in the literary arts, from ancient Irish sagas and legends to the rich folklore which plays its part in country life. Anglo-Irish writers s u c h a s Jo n a t h a n S w i f t a n d Edmund Burke were active in the flowering of Irish Arts in the 18th century, while the 20th century has produced many writers and poets of note: William Butler Yeats, Seamus Heaney, Frank O'Connor, Flann O'Brian, and the foremost chronicler of Dublin life, James Joyce. Irish dramatists have played an influential role in the development of English-language theater: from Oliver Goldsmith, Richard Sheridan, and Oscar

Wilde, to the 20th-century works of George Bernard Shaw, J. M. Synge, Brendan Behan, Samuel Beckett, and more recently, Frank McGuinness and Martin McDonagh. Each fall, Dublin hosts drama groups from around the world during the Dublin Theatre Festival. During the rest oft he year, you may choose from among 6-10 plays each week in the city's large and small theaters. Music plays a central role in Irish culture. The national emblem is the harp, and Irish folk music continues as a lively tradition. Frequent concerts and recitals of classical music are held throughout the year. The N a t i o n a l C o n c e r t H a l l , w h i ch opened in 1981, is the venue for several concerts each week. Artists in Celtic and early Christian Ireland excelled in metalwork, stone carving, and manuscript painting. Among the finest examples are the Ardagh Chalice and the Book of Kells. The countryside abounds with the archeological and architectural remains of many periods, including megalithic tombs, ring forts of the Iron Age, medieval abbeys, and castles. Around the country, but especially in and around Dublin, are many great houses and public buildings from the 18th century, when architecture and other arts flourished in Ireland. Scientific research in Ireland is supported by several public and private institutions. The regional universities are active in many fields. The Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies specializes in theoretical and cosmic physics; the National Board for Science and Technology is a major source of funding; and the Agricultural Institute is the largest research organization in Ireland. Two private institutions provide significant support for the sciences. The Royal Dublin Society (RDS) was founded in 1713 to encourage the arts and sciences and to foster improved methods of agriculture and stock breeding. The RDS sponsors a Spring Show devoted to these methods and the famous Dublin Horse Show every August. The

Royal Irish Academy, founded in 1785, promotes research in the natural sciences, mathematics, history, and literature. The Irish Department of Education provides free primary and secondary education. Most schools are state aided, yet remain private and managed by their individual boards. Almost all have religious affiliations; many are not coeducational. Ireland has two universities: the National University of Ireland (NUI) and Dublin University. NUI has four principal constituent universities: National University of Ireland, Dublin; National University of Ireland, Cork; National University of Ireland, Galway; and National University of Ireland, Maynooth, which is also a seminary and Pontifical University NUI also has two “recognized” colleges: Dublin City University and University of Limerick, which emphasizes applied sciences and business. Dublin University, founded in 1591, has one college, Trinity College, Dublin (TCD). O th e r t h ir d - le v e l i ns t i tu t io n s include Dublin Institute of Technology, the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland, a medical school; the Honourable Society of King's Inns, which trains barristers; and the National College of Art and Design.

Commerce and Industry The 1990s have been a period of rapid economic development in Ireland. Dubbed Europe's “celtic tiger,” the Irish economy in 1999 will likely enjoy the fastest growth of any industrialized nation in the world for a fifth consecutive year (average annual GDP growth has measured 9% since 1994). From being one of the EU's least developed countries in the 1980s, per capita incomes in Ireland have grown from just 69% of the EU average in 1991 to just under 90% of the average by 1998, and now measure an estimated $21,823. Most commentators attribute Ireland's “economic miracle” to the following factors: the 277

Ireland decade-old “social consensus” on economic policy between employers, trade unions, and successive governments that has ensured modest wa g e g r o w t h a n d h a r m o n i o u s industrial relations; low corporate taxes and generous grant-aid for foreign investors; a high degree of macroeconomic stability with low inflation and interest rates; Ireland's membership in the single European market and its adoption of the single European currency, the euro, from 1999; and high levels of investment in education and training. The Irish economy is highly dependent on international trade, with Irish exports of goods and services equivalent to an estimated 93% of GDP in 1998 and imports equivalent to an estimated 81%. In 1998, Ireland had a surplus on the current account of the balance of payments of 2% of GDP. Ireland's industrial structure differs from most other developed countries. Much of Ireland's economic growth in the 1990s is the result of rapid expansion by export-oriented, foreign-owned high-tech manufacturing industries, particularly in pharmaceuticals, chemicals, and computer hardware and software (over twothirds of Irish manufactured exports are produced by foreignowned industry). Accordingly, at just under 40% of GDP, manufacturing industry accounts for a much higher proportion of total economic activity in Ireland than most other developed countries. In contrast, nongovernment services, which are dominated by retailing, tourism, and finance, are less developed than elsewhere in the OECD. Agriculture, forestry, and fishing, which account for around 6% of Irish GDP, has declined rapidly in importance over the last 30 years, although they are still important employers in rural and peripheral regions of the country. Although Ireland has a market economy, state-owned companies in transport, energy, communications, and finance still account for over 5% of Irish GDP. Total public expenditure as a proportion of total income, at an estimated 33% in 278

Cities of the World 1999, is well below both the OECD and EU average. Although real incomes have improved markedly in recent years, the main benefit of rapid Irish economic growth has been a dramatic increase in new jobs. This has h elped reduce unemployment, increase female participation in the labor force, and bring Irish workers living abroad back to Ireland. Unemployment fell to 6.7% in March 1999, down from an average of 15.6% in 1993. The main danger facing Ireland's fast-growing economy is overheating. Shortages of both skilled and unskilled labor contributed to g rowth in averag e hourly industrial wages of around 6% in 1998, up from an average growth of 3.6% in 1997. Other economic challenges facing Ireland include widening income disparities caused by rising wages for skilled workers in Ireland's high-tech industries, increasing infrastructure congestion (as evidenced by the traffic “gridlock” in Dublin's streets), fast growth in house prices, and the widening economic divide between the prosperous southern and eastern regions of the country and generally poorer regions along west coast and border areas of the country. Ireland's economic “golden age” has been accompanied by an intensification of U.S.-Irish economic relations, both in terms of trade and bilateral investment. In 1997, the U.S. overtook Germany to become Ireland's second largest trading partner, behind only the U.K. Total exports from Ireland to the U.S. in 1998 were valued at $8.7 billion, while total imports into Ireland from the U.S. were valued at $6.8 billion. U.S. companies operating in Ireland account for much of the fast growth in Irish exports to the U.S. According to the U.S. Department of Commerce, the stock of U.S. investment in Ireland in 1997 was valued at $14.5 billion, up from $8.4 billion in 1995. Furthermore, in 1997 Ireland was estimated to have received almost 25% of all greenfield investment by U.S. companies into the EU that year. Of the 1,500 foreign com-

panies in Ireland in March 1998, the U.S. had 570. These U.S. operations employ almost 70,000 workers in Ireland, which represents a staggering 5% of total employment. In May 1998, Ireland, along with 10 other EU member states, was confirmed as meeting the requirements for EMU participation. Accordingly, on January 1, 1999, the Irish pound ceased to exist as Ireland's national currency, and the new single European currency, the Euro, became Ireland's official unit of exchange. Irish currency will continue to circulate until the introduction of Euro notes and coins in 2002. Although the Euro will not exist in physical form until 2002, from 1999 on, interbank, capital, and foreign exchange markets will be conducted in Euros. All government debt will be redenominated into Euros, and stock prices will also be quoted in Euros. Retail banks will also be obliged to offer private and corporate customers Euro bank accounts. The loss of national control over monetary and exchange rate policy presents a major challenge to Irish policymakers. Under EMU, changes in wages or employment levels, rather than adjustments to exchange and interest rates, are the primary mechanisms for the economy to react to external economic shocks. For the average Irish citizen, however, this first stage in progress toward EMU has had no concrete immediate effect. The Irish Congress of Trade Unions (ICTU) is the umbrella organization for most of Ireland's trade unions. Since 1987, collective bargaining has occurred in the context of national economic programs negotiated by representatives of government, trade unions, employers, farmers, and other “social partners.” These 3-year programs establish minimum-wage increases and broad economic and social objectives, and have been credited with Ireland's strong economic performance and sustained period of peaceful industrial relations during the 1990s. Just less than half of the Irish workforce is unionized.

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Transportation Automobiles Dublin boasts dealerships and service facilities for most European and Japanese vehicles. Many drivers prefer smaller vehicles for negotiating the narrow, winding roads. Traffic moves on the left in Ireland, and right-hand drive vehicles prevail, though they are not mandatory. If you import left-hand drive vehicles, you should be aware that not only will driving be more difficult, but also, liability insurance premiums will be higher by about 20%. Third-party liability insurance is mandatory and must be purchased from a local insurer. Insurers offer discounts for recent clean driving records, so bring a letter from your insurer indicating the length of claim-free driving. Currently, gasoline costs about $3 a gallon on the local market.

Local Dublin city bus service is uneven and ceases after midnight. A commuter train line follows the coast north and south of the city. Buses and trains are usually crowded. Taxis are expensive and may be difficult to obtain. Many are radio-dispatched, however, and most are clean and well maintained. Outside of rush hours, taxis may be hailed on the street with varying degrees of success.

Regional All of the larger cities in Ireland can be reached from Dublin by private auto, rail, or intercity buses within 5 hours. Only intermittent stretches of four-lane highways exist in Ireland. Most roads outside the city are narrow, winding, and need repair. Ferryboats travel between Dublin and Holyhead (Wales); Rosslare and Fishguard (Wales); Rosslare and Pembroke (Wales); Rosslare and Le Havre (France); Rosslare and Cherbourg (France, March-October only); Cork and Le Havre; Cork and Roscoff (France); Cork and Swansea (Wales).

London is 1 hour by air from Dublin, and flights to the Continent from Dublin are frequent. Delta Airlines, Continental, and Aer Lingus fly directly to Dublin from the U.S.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Modernization of the telecommunications network has been underway to bring an outdated system into line with the high technology being employed in other countries. You can dial directly to about 180 destinations, including the U.S., and contact about 40 more via the opera t or. I m p r ov e m e n t s h av e pr o gressed to such an extent that, except for the more remote areas and parts of Dublin, a telephone can be installed within 6-10 weeks of application.

Mail Airmail, air express, and surface mail between the U.S. and Ireland is reliable. International airmail between Dublin and New York takes about 8 days, and surface parcels take 4-6 weeks.

Radio and TV An autonomous public corporation, Radio Telefis Eireann (RTE), operates the radio and TV services with revenue from license fees and advertising. RTE radio broadcasts on three networks nationwide on VHF in stereo-Radio One, 2FM (popular music channel), and Raidio na Gaeltachta/FM3 Music (Raidio na Gaeltachta is the Irish language program, and FM3 MUSIC is a quality/classical music station). Radio One and 2FM also broadcasts on AM nationwide, and Raidio na Gaeltachta also broadcasts on AM in the Irish-speaking areas (The Gaeltacht). There are also many independent radio stations playing a variety of music. RTE TV is broadcast nationwide on 2 channels-RTE 1 and NETWORK 2. An independent station, TV3, started broadcasting during 1998. The stations broadcast from early morning until approximately 4 a.m. or 5 a.m. weekdays, with extended

schedules on weekends. In addition, with a cable system (available in most parts of Dublin) you can receive two BBC channels, two British ITV (Independent Television) channels, sports, and movie channels. U.S. TV's will not receive local broadcasts without expensive modifications.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Seven daily papers are published in Ireland, all in English. Most emphasize local and national news, but the Irish Times provides more international coverage than the others. The leading British dailies and the In t e r n a ti o n a l H e r al d Tr i bu n e appear on Dublin newsstands on the day they are published. A few popular U.S. magazines are also promptly available at the newsstands, e.g., the overseas editions of Time, Newsweek, Scientific American, and Omni. British journals are freely available. Magazines ordered by U.S. subscriptions are much less expensive but arrive about 3 weeks late by pouch. Dublin has several good bookstores; some offer secondhand books at reasonable prices. The public libraries are an alternative.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Competent specialists in all fields of medicine and dentistry provide satisfactory services, but their equipment is not always as modern as in the U.S. Obtain special medical or dental treatment before coming. Drugs and medical supplies of almost every variety are sold locally. Some drugs normally found in the U.S. and other countries are not available. Public hospitals and private nursing homes provide adequate treatment. Children under 12 are 279

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admitted only to children's hospitals.

Community Health The sewage system is modern, and c o m m u n it y s an i t a t io n i s g o o d although below that for some U.S. c i t i e s. Wa t e r i s p o t a b l e a n d fluoridated. Food handling is sometimes below U.S. sanitary standards. Because of the cool climate, refrigeration is used to a lesser extent. Meats may be displayed in uncovered cases. Nevertheless, these practices do not appear to present a special health hazard. Among the general population, rheumatism and arthritis are common. Young children are now vaccinated against measles, mumps, and rubella with the MMR vaccine at about 15 months. Respiratory diseases such as bronchitis and asthma, glandular infections, and head colds are prevalent. No serious epidemics have occurred in Ireland for several years.

Preventive Measures Have the triple vaccine (tetanus, diphtheria, and pertussis) and TOPV for polio for all children. Immunizations of all kinds are available in Dublin.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties A passport is necessary, but a visa is not required for tourist or business stays of up to three months. For information concerning entry requirements for Ireland, travelers can contact the Embassy of Ireland at 2234 Massachusetts Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008; telephone: (202) 462-3939, fax: 202-2325993, or the nearest Irish consulate in Boston, Chicago, New York, or San Francisco. The Internet address of the Irish Embassy is: http://www.irelandemb.org. 280

Americans living in or visiting Ireland are encouraged to register with the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy and obtain updated information on travel and security in Ireland. The U.S. Embassy in Dublin is located at 42 Elgin Road, Ballsbridge, tel. (353)(1)668-7122; after hours tel. (353)(1)668-9612/9464; fax (353)(1) 668-9946.

Pets Ireland has strict quarantine laws. Most pets entering the country must be placed in quarantine for 6 months at the owner's expense. There is only one quarantine facility in Ireland and reservations are necessary and this process can amount to as much as $4,000. An excellent selection of all breeds of pets, reasonably priced, may be found in Ireland. Importation of certain types of birds is prohibited.

Firearms and Ammunition Certain types of nonautomatic firearms an d ammunition may be imported into Ireland.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the Irish monetary unit is the Euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 Euro. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 5 0 0 e u r os. T h e e x ch a n g e r a t e approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US. All banks in Dublin handle exchange transactions, and many offer Irish pound checking accounts. Banks will cash a personal dollar check, but might delay payment. Dublin has branches of Citibank, Chase Manhattan Bank, Bank of America, and First National Bank of Chicago. The avoirdupois weight system and long measure are used. Liquid measure is based on the British imperial gallon. Ireland adopted the metric system in 1976 and is gradually eliminating nonmetric measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Mar. 17 . . . . . . . . . St. Patrick's Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May (first Monday). . . . May Bank Holiday* June (first Monday). . . . June Bank Holiday* Aug. (first Monday). . . . August Bank Holiday* Oct. (last Monday) . . . . October Bank Holiday* Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . St. Stephen's Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

History Beckett, J. E. A Making of Modern Ireland 1603-1923. Faber and Faber: London 1981. Fanning, R. Independent Ireland. Helicon Dublin, 1983. Fisk, R. In Time of War. Andre Deutsch London, 1983. Foster, R. F. Modern Ireland 16001972. Penguin Press: Cambridge, 1988. Harkness, D. Northern Ireland Since 1920 Helicon: Dublin, 1983. Kee, Robert. The Green Flag, A History of Irish Nationalism. Weidenfeld and Nicolson: London, 1972. Lee, J. J. Ireland 1912-1985: Politics ant Society. Cambridge University Press Cambridge, 1989. Lyons, F. S. L. Ireland Since the Famine. Weidenfeld and Nicolson: Lon don, 1973.

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Cities of the World Martin, F. X. and T. W. Moody, ed. The Course of Irish History. Mercier Press Dublin, 1984. Moody, T. W. The Ulster Question 1603-1973. Mercier Press: Cork, 1974. O'Brien, Marie and Conor Cruise. A Concise History of Ireland. Thames and Hudson: London, 1973.

Government and Politics Chubb, B. The Government and Politics of Ireland. 2nd ed. Oxford University Press: London, 1982. Coombes, D., ed. Ireland and the European Communities. Gill and McMillan Dublin, 1983. Gallagher, M. Political Parties in the Republic of Ireland. Gill and McMillan Dublin, 1985. Keatinge, E. A Place Among the Nations Issues in Irish Foreign Policy. Institute of Public Administration: Dublin 1978. Keatinge, P. A Singular Stance, Irish Neutrality in the 1980s. Institute of Public Administration: Dublin, 1984.

O'Malley, E. The Uncivil Wars, Ireland Today. Houghton, Mifflin: Boston, 1983.

Economics

O'Murchin, M. The Irish Language. Department of Foreign Affairs and Board na Gaeilge: Dublin, 1985.

Meenan, James. The Irish Economy Since 1922. Liverpool University Press: Liverpool, 1970.

O'Siadhall, M. Learning Irish. Institute for Advanced Studies: Dublin, 1980.

The New Ireland Forum: Studies and Reports on Specific Matters. The Stationer Office: Dublin, 1984.

Reference Works and General Interest

OECD Economic Surveys, Ireland. OECD, Paris: April, 1985. O'Hagen, T., ed. The Economy of Ireland. Irish Management Institute: Dublin, 1976. Understanding and Cooperation in Ireland (8 pages). Cooperation North: Belfast and Dublin, 1983.

Culture De Breffney, B. Ireland: A Cultural Encyclopedia. Thames and Hudson: London, 1983. Fogarty, M., L., and J. Lee. Irish Values and Attitudes. Dominican Publications: Dublin, 1984.

Kelly, J. M. The Irish Constitution. 2nd ed. Jurist: Dublin, 1984.

Greeley, Andrew. The Irish Americans. Harper and Row: New York, 1981.

Northern Ireland: Questions of Nuance. Blackstaff Press: Belfast, 1990.

Kennelly, B., ed. The Penguin Book of Irish Verse. 2nd ed: London, 1981.

Administration Yearbook and Diary. Institute of Public Administration: Dublin (yearly). American Business Directory. U.S. Chamber of Commerce in Ireland: Dublin (yearly). Cairnduff, M. Who's Who in Ireland. Vesey: Dublin, 1984. DeBreffney, B. Castles in Ireland. Thames and Hudson: London, 1977. Ernest, Berm. Blue Guide to Ireland. 4th ed. London, 1979. Facts About Ireland. Department of Foreign Affairs: Dublin, 1985. Joyce, James. Ulysses. Nealon, T. and Brennan. S. Nealon's Guide, 24th Dail and Seanad. 2nd ed., 1982. Platform Press: Dublin, 1983. Shannon, E. Up in the Park. Atheneum: New York, 1983. Uris, Leon. Trinity.

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Jerusalem, Israel

ISRAEL State of Israel

Major Cities: Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa Other Cities: Acre, Beersheba, Bethlehem, Elat, Hadera, Holon, Nablus, Nazareth, Netanya

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated April 1993. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The modern State of ISRAEL was created in 1948 after more than a half-century of Zionist efforts to provide a homeland for dispersed Jews. The official design for this new nation was formed in 1917 with the Balfour Declaration, which avowed the British Government’s support of a Jewish homeland in Palestine. Other countries, including the United States, upheld the declaration and, after World War I, the United Kingdom assumed the Palestine Mandate. Nazi persecution of Jews during the 1930s and 1940s increased the incentive for immigration to Palestine, and international support grew for the establishment of a Jew-

ish nation. In November 1947, the United Nations adopted a plan to divide the area into Arab and Jewish states but, as the end of the mandate approached, discord between the two segments of the population of Palestine degenerated into civil war. The State of Israel was proclaimed on May 14, 1948. The years since then have been marked with tension, border disputes, and open warfare—interspersed with cease-fire agreements and internationally sponsored peace talks. Anxieties remain about immediate possibilities for a negotiated solution.

MAJOR CITIES Tel Aviv Tel Aviv is Israel’s second largest city (after Jerusalem), with a population of 349,000 in a metropolitan ar e a of w e l l o ve r o n e m i ll i o n . Located approximately midway on Israel’s Mediterranean coast, the city is bounded on the north by the small Yarkon River and on the south by the ancient city of Yafo (Jaffa). Between Tel Aviv and the city of Haifa to the north, numerous small communities give the appear-

ance of a megalopolis interspersed with farms and sand dunes. Tel Aviv was founded in 1909 as a Jewish suburb of the Arab town of Yafo. The city grew rapidly, and quickly became the financial and commercial center of Israel. Banks, insurance companies, and business firms have their main offices in Tel Aviv/Yafo. Manufacturing firms, a new university, research activities, and the international airport give the feeling of living in a bustling metropolis. The pace of the city is Mediterranean with its hectic traffic, sidewalk cafés, and crowded, noisy streets; but the newness and lack of greenery and open space set it apart from most Mediterranean locations. Tel Aviv began as a garden suburb and, without apparent thought or planning, it expanded. As a result, streets are narrow and buildings are crowded together. Among these are some modern glass and concrete office towers, including the tallest building in the Middle East. In the newer parts of the city, improved construction and planning can be seen. Renovations have been made on the main beach-front, and a mosaic promenade installed. People stroll here on weekend evenings, or sit at the cafés. 283

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The Jewish Sabbath, Shabbat, begins late Friday afternoon and ends after sundown on Saturday. All banks and business firms are closed during that time, as is public transportation. Some restaurants remain open. Radio and television stations operate on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, with the exception of Yom Kippur, when all commercial (and vehicular) traffic ceases. Sunday is a regular working day for Israelis. The American Embassy is in Tel Aviv. Although Israel claims all of Jerusalem as its capital, the United States and most countries which maintain diplomatic relations with Israel accept only West Jerusalem in a de facto sense as the working capital. They regard the international status of Jerusalem as still undecided, pending final peace treaties between Israel and its Arab neighbors. Therefore, most countries maintain their embassies and legations in Tel Aviv, although they transact much of their business with Israeli Government offices in Jerusalem.

Schools for Foreigners Walworth Barbour American International School in Israel (WBAIS), a U.S. Government-sponsored institution, provides instruction from kindergarten through high school. Enrollment represents the international community; only a small minority are Israeli, many of these recent immigrants are from South A f r i c a , t h e U. S. , a n d o t h e r English-speaking countries. Hebrew instruction is mandatory in t h i r d g r a d e, a f t e r w h i c h i t i s optional. Instruction in French can begin in the seventh grade. During t h e f o u r y e a r s o f h ig h s ch o o l , emphasis is placed on college preparation; French and Hebrew are also offered. Science laboratories are well equipped and the teaching staff, chiefly U.S. immigrants, is strong in all departments. Supplementary language instruction and other subjects are available if there is adequate demand. The library, directed by a professional librarian, is adequate, and constantly adds 284

new books and audio/visual materials. Extracurricular activities at WBAIS include gymnastics, basketball, soccer, softball, and field hockey. There are a modern playing field, an excellent gym/auditorium, outdoor basketball courts, and an art center. The school is directed by a board consisting of U.S. Government officials, Israelis, and other American and foreign members. Several other educational facilities are available to foreign residents of Tel Aviv, including British and French schools. The British school, Tabeetha, sponsored by the Church of Scotland, prepares students for entrance to British universities. The school can offer the equivalent of a U.S. high school curriculum, but the grades available each year vary. French, German, and Hebrew are taught, and classes are conducted in preparation for the British A-level examinations in both the sciences and humanities, depending on demand. In Israeli society, all children attend compulsory preschool, starting at five years of age. Private preschools, or gans, may accept children as young as 18 months. The gans are adequate to excellent, and are staffed by well-trained teachers. They operate six mornings a week within a flexible attendance schedule.

Special Opportunities Tel Aviv offers special education facilities for handicapped children and those with learning disabilities. Walworth Barbour School has provided special teachers and instruction for several students, including blind and moderately learning-disabled children. English-speaking physical and speech therapists are listed with the medical advisor at the American Embassy. Severely handicapped children, however, may have difficulty finding schooling. Most university courses in Israel are in Hebrew, but the Hebrew Uni-

versity in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv University, and Bar-Ilan University offer some courses in English. The French and German embassies regularly sponsor both intensive daytime and weekly evening language classes. Teachers are available for many Eastern and Western European languages. Many opportunities are available for those who wish to learn Hebrew. In addition to embassy language programs, there is a six-month course in Hebrew for the diplomatic community, sponsored by the Tel Aviv municipality. Those with more time or greater dedication can use the ulpanim, language-instruction centers run privately or by the Israeli Government; classes average four hours a day, five or six days a week; day sessions last up to six months. Evening courses are also available. The ulpanim and the Tel Aviv municipality course teach not only the spoken language, but also reading and writing.

Recreation Swimming is possible here about eight months of the year and even year round for the hardy. Tel Aviv and nearby coastal suburban areas have beaches, but these are generally crowded and sometimes have tar. Some very attractive beaches are about an hour’s drive north or south of the city. Bathing is prohibited at unguarded beaches because of a dangerous undertow, but this does not hinder popular seaside picnics from April to November. The large, public saltwater pool in Tel Aviv and several freshwater pools in nearby Ramat Gan are usually crowded. Hotels in Tel Aviv and Herzliyya, as well as the Kfar Shmaryahu Community Club, have large pools. The Tel Aviv Country Club, five minutes north of the city, has excellent sports facilities, a double, Olympic-size freshwater pool (heated in winter), 11 tennis courts, and a large gym. Skin diving, fishing, snorkeling, water-skiing, and scuba diving are also popular in Israel. Diving

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© Annie Griffiths Belt/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Aerial view of Tel Aviv, Israel

classes, with instruction in English, are given in Tel Aviv and at Red Sea resorts. Small boats can be rented for the day in Haifa and on the Sea of Galilee at Tiberias. Skin divers can explore interesting underwater ruins off the coast of Caesarea. The Gulf of Aqaba, off Elat, has an incredible variety of tropical fish and coral reefs; an excursion by glass-bottom boat to see these is enjoyable. Elat also offers excellent skin diving, water-skiing, scuba diving, and snorkeling.

Hunters find a variety of game, including partridge and wild boar, but duck and geese are scarce. It is illegal to shoot gazelle. Hunters are permitted to shoot up to 10 game birds a day during the September-February hunting season. Guns of any caliber can be licensed in Israel, but hunting with guns of “military caliber” (larger than .22) is prohibited. Twelve-gauge shotguns and .22-caliber rifles are recommended, since ammunition for these sizes is more available in Israel. Ammunition costs more than in the U.S.

Israel has a golf course, located at Caesarea, 45 minutes north of Herzliyya. Near Tel Aviv, there are riding stables; a ranch north of Tiberias in the hills of Galilee offers trail riding. One ranch in the hills of Galilee runs guided horseback tours with camping and Western-style dining. Horse shows are frequent.

The most popular recreational activity here is touring. Israel is rich in history and archaeology. An advantage of a small country is that excursions can be made to almost any location in one or two days. Tour buses throughout Israel take in ruins, Crusader castles, old Roman and Phoenician cities, and

biblical sites, as well as modern towns. Occasionally, arrangements have been made for volunteers to join archaeological digs. Some search for old coins and artifacts on weekends. An archaeology class in English, including excursions, is offered at Tel Aviv University. For hiking enthusiasts, a four-day, cross-country march to Jerusalem is held each spring, yielding stories enough to last the rest of the year. Hiking in the mountains of Galilee is excellent; it is especially beautiful in spring, when the view from every mountaintop compensates for the climb. One of the most popular outings is to Mount Tabor, where a monastery at the summit serves meals and runs a guest house (by reservation). One can either drive up the mountain by winding roads or climb straight up; the climb takes about an hour. 285

Israel Without detracting from the splendor of Jerusalem or the lovely setting of Haifa, the beauty of Israel lies not only in its cities, but in the land. From rich northern greenery to rugged southern deserts, the land is for exploring, strolling, picnicking, and mere enjoyment. For added pleasure, in harmony with the natural beauty are sites with histories dating from the Crusades and biblical times. Some spots connect with Israel’s modern history and striking development. Among the places recommended are: About an hour north of Tel Aviv, on a main highway, is Caesarea. This ancient, partially excavated city was founded by King Herod and was the Roman capital in Palestine. A long aqueduct from Roman times parallels the beach. The Roman theater hosts visiting artists during the summer music festival. Between these two remnants of ancient times is a Crusader city. The wall and moat are almost intact; inside the wall, much original pavement and several buildings have been preserved. About one-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv, is Megiddo. Archaeologists have uncovered 20 superimposed cities here. The lowest stratum dates back to the fourth millennium B.C.; the most recent one from the fourth century B.C. Megiddo was an ancient fortress and played a role in defending the country against Thutm o s e I I I . L a t e r, i t wa s o n e o f Solomon’s “cities for chariots.” The Hill of Megiddo in Hebrew is Har Megeddon—the biblical Armageddon. Tiberias, some two-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv, is a winter resort on the Sea of Galilee. The drive to Tiberias through the hills of Galilee is probably one of the most beautiful in the world. The whole area around Tiberias is famous from the New Testament; Capernaum, Jesus’ city, is nearby, as is the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. Acre (‘Akko) is about two hours from Tel Aviv. It is an Arab town and, like 286

Cities of the World Nazareth, is a reminder that Israel is indeed part of the Middle East. On the Lebanese border, a half-hour north, are the grottoes of Rosh Hanikra. The road heading east along the border is particularly beautiful. The Galilee is within three hours of Tel Aviv. The area has some of the best scenery year round, and has such interesting sights as the Crusader castle at Montfort, the ancient synagogue at Bar’am, the nature preserve at Tel Dan, and numerous kibbutzim which, until 1967, were frequently under Syrian artillery f i r e . To t h e e a s t , w i t h i n t h e Israeli-occupied Golan Heights, are the Banyas Waterfalls, the crater at Birkat Ram, and Mt. Hermon, where skiing is possible several months of the year. The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on earth. On its southern shore is the infamous Sdom (the biblical Sodom), which is now the site of Israel’s Dead Sea Works where salt and chemicals are extracted from the sea. A few miles north of Sdom is the well-preserved and -excavated mountain fortress of Masada, where Jewish defenders held off the Roman siege in the first century A.D. The climb to the top is a must for the hardy, but a cable car is also available. Farther north is the oasis of Ein Gedi—lush greenery amid the desert. A waterfall at Ein Gedi creates a pool which is excellent for swimming. The Negev. Beersheba, 66 miles from Tel Aviv, is the gateway to the Negev. The city has historical interest as the home of Abraham. To the south are the ruins of Shivta and Av da t . A t Av d a t , a B y z a n t i n e church and Roman acropolis were superimposed on an ancient Nabatean foundation. In touring and traveling, visitors should not drive through strictly religious towns or sections of cities on Friday night or Saturday, nor drive anywhere on the Day of Atonement, Yom Kippur.

Entertainment In addition to its major theaters, orchestras, and museums, Israel has several repertory theaters as well as amateur and professional groups. Plays are performed in Hebrew, but many are familiar works translated from other languages, and some programs provide an English synopsis. Theater in English is sometimes possible to find from time to time. Internationally known entertainers in all fields appear frequently. Some plays are performed with simultaneous translation in English, available through earphones. Tel Aviv has several movie theaters, including a drive-in. Recent American and European films are shown in the original language, with subtitles in Hebrew and English or French. To avoid waiting in line to buy tickets, one can buy them in advance from a booking agency located near the U.S. Embassy. Yafo (Jaffa), directly south of Tel Aviv, abounds in nightclubs, cafés, and other evening diversions. The renovated artists’ quarter glows by night; most little shops and galleries in the Old City remain open late into the evening. The celebrations for Purim, the Feast of Esther, each spring include folk dancing and popular street entertainment, costume parties, and a beaux arts ball in the artists’ colony of Ein Hod (near Haifa). A week-long Passover music festival is held at Kibbutz Ein Gev on the Sea of Galilee, and a festival of Christian liturgical music is given at Abu Gosh (near Jerusalem) in May. Each summer, the Israel Festival of Music and Drama brings outstanding groups and individual artists from many countries, especially from the U.S. The Israelis are friendly and hospitable. They often entertain late in the evening by American standards, and enjoy having guests in for drinks (most Israelis prefer juice or soft drinks to alcohol), conversation, and coffee. There are many opportunities for resident foreigners to

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Israelis, Armenians, Druze, Samaritans, and Bedouins. The languages are as varied as the population. Hebrew and Arabic serve as the official languages, and English is the most commonly spoken foreign t o n g u e. M o s t s t r e e t s i g n s a r e printed in these three languages. Present-day Jerusalem is divided into three areas: The Walled City (with its Christian, Muslim, Jewish and Armenian quarter) and West (Israeli) and East (Arab) Jerusalem. The Walled City, a relatively small area covering less than a square mile, is the religious, emotional, and touristic heart of Jerusalem. Contained within the enclosure are the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, David’s Tower, Via Dolorosa, Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque, and other religious, historic, and archaeological sites. The narrow streets and bazaars of the Walled City are often thronged with pilgrims, tourists, and residents going about their daily business. Immediately to the east, across the Kidron Valley, is the Mount of Olives, the lower reaches of which contain the Garden of Gethsemane.

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Western Wall and Dome of the Rock Mosque in Jerusalem

attend seders, bar mitzvahs, and weddings. Most Israelis are not particularly observant of religious customs, but they may have special sensitivities nonetheless. Consideration should be taken in entertaining them, such as providing alternatives to pork and shellfish, and refraining from issuing invitations on Jewish holidays. If Israelis decline food or drink at any time, it is not an insult, but merely a matter of conscience. It is entirely acceptable to inquire in advance whether one’s guests, either Jewish or Muslim, observe dietary restrictions.

Jerusalem Jerusalem, Israel’s capital and largest city, is situated in the Judean Hills about 40 miles from the Mediterranean, at an altitude of 2,710 feet. The physical setting is dazzling. On a clear day it is possible to look to the east and see the Dead Sea (1,300 feet below sea level), the Jordan Valley, and the Mountains of Moab. Jerusalem’s population is about 622,000 (including East Jerusalem, annexed in 1967). It includes a variety of cultural, ethnic, and religious backgrounds—Palestinian Arabs,

West Jerusalem is that part of the city controlled by the Israeli Government prior to June 1967, and has a population that is almost entirely Jewish Israeli. It is a mixture of older stone houses, vast modern housing developments, government ministries, and educational and cultural institutions. Most shops, theaters, restaurants, and commercial institutions are located here. Jerusalem was proclaimed the nation’s capital in a 1950 resolution, but is not considered as such by the United Nations. The American Foreign Service maintains its embassy in Tel Aviv and, in addition, has one of its two independent consular posts in Jerusalem—the only other is in Hong Kong. The U.S. consular district in Jerusalem also includes the West Bank of the Jordan River. Most of the Arab population in East Jerusalem and the West Bank is 287

Israel Muslim, but substantial concentrations of Christians live in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Ramallah and environs. Jerusalem has vast emotional and symbolic significance for Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It is a short walk from the Dome of the Rock (the third holiest site in Islam) to the Western Wall (the western wall of the Second Temple platform—once known as the Wailing Wall), and to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (the site of Christ’s tomb). Religion is an important element in city life, and religious holidays of the three major faiths are felt and observed as in no other city on earth. The Palestinian population is about 93 percent Muslim (mostly Sunni) and approximately seven percent Christian (of various sects, but mainly Greek Orthodox). Judaism, in varying degrees of orthodoxy, is practiced by the Jewish population. Jerusalem contains many of the most important Jewish, Muslim, and Christian shrines in the world. The Walled City is a showplace of outstanding examples of Islamic, Byzantine, Crusader, and Ottoman architecture. A wealth of museums exists, ranging from the general interest Israel Museum (which includes an extensive archaeological display, sculpture garden, and children’s wing) to special interest collections (archaeological, Islamic, and Palestinian) and Yad Vashem, a museum commemorating Holocaust victims. Windows painted by Marc Chagall, depicting the 12 tribes of Israel, are displayed at Hadassah Medical Center in Ein Kerem, on the outskirts of Jerusalem. The Rockefeller Museum offers a lecture series, and the Israel Museum hosts programs, films, and classes for children and adults. Archaeological sites, excavated and unexcavated, are abundant throughout the area. The Albright School of Oriental Research, the British School of Archaeology, and the Institute of Archaeology at Hebrew University are but a few of the many centers located in Jerusalem. 288

Cities of the World Theological centers and schools, such as the Tantur Ecumenical Institute and the American Institute for Holy Land Studies, defy enumeration. École Biblique (famous for the Jerusalem Bible) has specialists in a number of fields, including archaeology and the Bible. Most of these institutions offer formal and informal courses and lecture series on a variety of topics. The main campuses of Hebrew University, Hebrew Union College, and the Bezalel School of Arts and Crafts are located in Jerusalem. Most courses are taught in Hebrew. On the West Bank, Bethlehem and Bir Zeit Universities offer many courses in English; Najah University in Nablus and the Hebron University offer courses in Arabic.

Recreation About a million tourists visit Israel annually, and most find their way to Jerusalem. There are scores of hotels, hospices, hostels, shops, travel agencies, and restaurants catering primarily to the tourist trade. The climate is mild, with a long summer (May to October) of warm days and cool nights and a chilly, often rainy winter (November to March). Summer temperatures seldom rise above 85°F. Humidity is low and mildew is rare. In winter, temperatures average 55°F, with occasional drops to freezing. Sometimes Jerusalem gets a ham’seen, or sandstor m. These oc cur infr equently and are not as strong as in other parts of the Middle East. The drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem through the Judean hills is beautiful, with several interesting places to stop along the way. The countryside changes with every season: barren in winter, bright with green fields and blossoming flowers in spring, and parched in summer. In the city it self is the Isra el Museum with its collection of Dead Sea Scrolls, the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden, and fascinating exhibits within the main buildings. The Israeli Government buildings,

Hadassah Hospital, the Kennedy Memorial, Mt. Herzl, and the scale model of the old city are all worthwhile. Mt. Zion, with King David’s tomb and the room of the Last Supper, are outside the confines of The Walled City. Plane connections from Ben Gurion Airport (about an hour’s drive from Jerusalem at Lod, near Tel Aviv) are available to principal European cities, Cyprus, and the U.S. Travel by ship is also possible from Israel to Cyprus and to various other Mediterranean ports. Sight-seeing, picnicking, and amateur archaeology are by far the most popular pastimes in and around Jerusalem, where short, half-day trips can be planned. Many organized tours are available for a modest fee; these tours go to almost every part of the country, and guides are usually competent. Numerous places of archaeological and religious interest are within a few hours’ drive of Jerusalem. Bethlehem is a 15-minute ride from the city. Nablus, home of the Samaritans and the site of the Roman city, Sebastia, is an hour’s drive. Jericho, one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities and a winter resort for Jerusalem’s Arabs, is located near the Dead Sea, less than an hour away. The religious sites at Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee are less than three hours from Jerusalem by bus or car. The ancient port of Caesarea, with extensive ruins, a bathing beach within its Old City, and an excellent golf course, is two hours away; Elat (or Eilat), five hours by car or bus or 40 minutes by plane, is a popular Red Sea resort, particularly in the fall or spring when the weather is not so warm. Both Israel and the West Bank abound in historical sites ranging from the biblical to the Crusader period. Jericho, Masada, Lachish, Hazor, Megiddo, Gezer, Sebastia, Caesarea, Ashkelon, Hebron, and Acre (`Akko) are a few of the many places of significance for those interested in the area’s history. Most can

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Cities of the World be seen in a day; reasonable and adequate hotel facilities can be found for longer trips. Traditional Palestinian handicraft activity (embroidery, olive wood carving, mother-of-pearl, and gold work) are centered around the Jerusalem and Bethlehem areas. Except for soccer, which is quite popular, organized team sports are not common in Jerusalem. The YMCA and YWCA (and YMJA and JMWA) do, however, offer excellent facilities for swimming, tennis, squash, volleyball, basketball, and gymnastics. Membership fees are modest. These organizations have summer day camps for children seven to 14 years of age with swimming, gym, outdoor games, handicrafts, and outings. Several attractive, clean swimming pools are in and around Jerusalem. Hotel pools offer seasonal or daily memberships. Ocean bathing at Mediterranean resorts (about an hour or two from the city) is popular. Resorts on the Dead Sea are open all year. Horseback riding is available in Jerusalem. Hunting for birds and wild boar is permitted in Galilee and Golan, but not on the West Bank. Snorkeling and scuba diving are available at Elat, where the coral reefs and fish are magnificent.

Entertainment Jerusalem’s first-class concert hall features performances by internationally renowned artists and by the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra. There are also several art galleries, theaters, and dance studios in the city. Movies are a popular form of evening entertainment. The city’s movie theaters are somewhat spartan, but feature many American and English films. There is also a Cinemath eque, and the Israel Museum and the Jerusalem Theatre run art films. Israel’s Philharmonic Orchestra plays regularly in the Jerusalem

Concert Hall during winter and s p r i n g, a n d f e a t u r e s m a n y w o r l d -f a m o u s c o n d u c t o r s a n d renowned guest artists throughout the season. The Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra and excellent chamber music groups also perform. Although the city is not generally considered a gourmet’s paradise, several hotels and restaurants are satisfactory. Some of the larger hotels offer unique atmosphere and good cuisine; a few have piano bars, or dancing on designated evenings. Photography is popular in Israel. Local processing of black-and-white film is satisfactory, but color film should be developed in the U.S. Photographers should be wary of taking pictures of Orthodox Jews or traditionally dressed Arabs, especially if they are at worship. A number of holidays in both Israel and the West Bank offer interesting festivities. In the Arab sector of Jerusalem, the pilgrimages and ceremonies of the Eastern and Western churches during the Christmas and Easter seasons are impressive, and the Samaritan Passover at Nablus is an unusual event. In Israel, Purim (or Carnival) is celebrated by young and old in costume. Passover is commemorated by seder, or ritual family dinner. A substantial American community lives in Jerusalem and on the West Bank. It includes American Jews immigrating to Israel, U.S. citizens of Palestinian-Arab ancestry who have come here to retire, and Americans who are in Jerusalem temporarily on work-related assignments or for religious or cultural reasons. Because of the variety in backgrounds and interests, this community is loosely knit.

Haifa Haifa is in northwest Israel, about one-and-a-half hours from Tel Aviv. The nation’s principal port, with a current population of 264,000, it spreads inland from the Bay of Haifa up the western slope of Mount

Carmel. The view of the city and the bay from above is unforgettable. Most of Israel’s heavy industry is concentrated in Haifa—steel mills, an oil refinery, chemical plants, and cement and glass works. It is also the site of a naval base. Haifa was called Sycaminum in ancient times, but its most interesting history dates from just after World War II, when it was the center of illegal Jewish immigration into Palestine. Among the places of interest here are the Museum of Antiquities, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Ethnological and Folklore Museum. The Technion, a technical institute and Israel’s premier engineering school was established in 1924 and Haifa University was founded in 1963. The world headquarters of the Baha’i faith are located above Haifa, within extensive gardens.

OTHER CITIES ACRE (in Hebrew, `Akko) lies on the Mediterranean, nine miles northeast of Haifa. This seaport’s economy is comprised of light industry, steel rolling mills, and fishing. The last stronghold of the Crusaders, Acre was the capital of the Latin Kingdom from 1191 to 1291. The Hospitaller Quarter here contains one of the world’s oldest buildings, the Crypt of St. John, dating to at least the mid-13th century. Today called Crusader City, the subterranean structures were unearthed in the 1950s and 1960s. The Bedouin sheikh, Daher el-Omar, built a virtually impregnable fortress over its remains, and restored Acre’s walls, some of which still stand. Napoleon was forced to abandon his eastern campaign when he met with stiff resistance in the city after piercing its walls in 1799. The old prison of the British Mandate era now houses a Museum of Heroism; the Municipal Museum has ancient archaeology and folklore collections. On the edge of town is the burial ground of the prophet of the Baha’i faith, Baha’u’llah (1817–1892), who spent the last years of his life in exile 289

Israel here. Acre has been described as dilapidated, with an unsanitary a p p e a r a n c e. I t s p o p u l a t i o n i s approximately 46,000. BEERSHEBA (in Hebrew, Be’er Sheva`; in Arabic, Bir es Saba), “the City of Abraham,” is the capital of the Southern Region, situated 45 miles southwest of Jerusalem. With approximately 160,000 residents, it is a busy, modern industrial and educational center, and the largest city in the Negev, a desert region. Chemicals and glass are its main products. Ben Gurion University opened here in 1965, and has been the site of important negotiations with Egypt. Israel targeted the area for settlement in the late 1940s; today Beersheba has a futuristic look. History and tradition are preserved in Tel Sheva, or biblical Beersheba, where tourists visit excavations and the Museum of the Desert. The Hebrew patriarch Abraham is said to have pitched his tent on the tel (a mound formation marking an ancient city), eight miles outside of town. Abraham’s Well is a tourist stop, as is the Bedouin camel market, held Thursday mornings. BETHLEHEM, the birthplace of Jesus Christ, is located a little over 6 miles south of Jerusalem. Once a stopping place on an ancient caravan route, the town hosted a variety of cultures, such as Canaanite, Byzantine, Arab, Islamic, Persian, Turkish, and later, British. The artistic and religious traditions of these various groups can be seen in the varied architectural styles around town. The Church of the Nativity, located in Manger Square at town center and believed by many to be built on the actual site of Jesus' birth, is the one of world's oldest operating churches. Other sites of note include the Milk Grotto Chapel, a shrine to the Virgin Mary, and Rachel's Tomb, o n e o f Ju d a i s m ' s m o s t s a c r e d shrines. Visitors can also walk through the Shepherds' Field in Beit-Sahour, believed to be the site of the angel's announcement to the shepherds of the birth of Jesus. Solomon's Pools, which have pro290

Cities of the World vided Bethlehem and Jerusalem with water throughout the past 2000 years, are nearby as are several desert monasteries begun by early Christians. Today, Bethlehem is primarily a farm market town which is also well-known for industries in olive wood carvings and mother-of-pearl jewelry. Several bus tours are offered through the city, many originating for Jerusalem, which is only about 40 minutes away. Both guided and self-guided walking tours are very popular in town. The population of Bethlehem is about 137,286 (1997 est.). ELAT (Eilat), 212 miles from Tel Aviv, is the southernmost point in Israel and its only port on the Red Sea. The harbor is bordered on both sides by mountains: the Sinai range on one side and the Jordanian mountains of Edom on the other. The city, with a population of more than 43,000, is a major tourist attraction and winter resort with swimming, boating, water-skiing, fishing, skin diving, and a world-famous aquarium and underwater observatory. Just south of Elat in the occupied Sinai desert, is a Scandinavian-type fjord and the beautiful Coral Island. Farther along the coast of the peninsula, down to Sharm-el-Sheikh, are fine beaches with tropical fish and coral, for swimming and outstanding snorkeling and skin diving. HADERA, located 26 miles south of Haifa, is a principal service center for nearby villages, and a processing hub for local agricultural products. Jewish settlement groups founded the community in 1890. Malaria killed many of the settlers, but a few survived to drain the marshlands. These were breeding grounds for the mosquitoes and source of the Arabic name, Hadra, meaning “the green one.” The ancient Turkish khan, or rest house, near the central synagogue, has an exhibit of pioneer-era history. The current population is 76,000.

HOLON, in central Israel, has been a city since 1941. It is part of the Tel Aviv metropolitan area, and in recent years has grown considerably; it now has a population of 163,000. Holon is noted particularly for its silverware, and for the textile factories which contribute to its expanding economy. NABLUS (also spelled Nábulus; in Hebrew, Schechem) is the largest city in the Israeli-occupied West Bank, with an estimated population over 80,000. Situated 30 miles north of Jerusalem, this is the religious center of the Samaritans, as well as the focal point of Arab nationalism in the region. Nearby, on the eastern slope of Mount Gerizim, is Jacob’s Well, where Jesus met the woman of Samaria. In the same area, German archaeologists discovered remains of the biblical Sichem on Tel Balata. Other prominent sites include the mosques of Jámi` al-Kabir and Jámi` an Nasr. NAZARETH (in Hebrew, Nazerat; in Arabic, An-Násira), is roughly 45 minutes from Tiberias, not far from the Sea of Galilee. It is the largest Arab and Christian town in the country and, with dozens of New Testament related places, the most visited city by Christians. However, the town's history was far from romantic. The town was first settled during the period 600-900 BC, but was too small to be included in the list of settlements of the tribe of Zebulon (Joshua 19:10-16), which mentions twelve towns and six villages. The name is also missing from the 63 towns in Galilee mentioned in the Talmud. Archeological excavations show that Nazareth was merely a small agricultural village settled by a few dozen families. Today, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims come each year to this town of only about 56,000 residents. The Basilica of the Annunciation is one of the grandest and most popular sites in Nazareth. It contains the Grotto of the Virgin, believed by the Roman Catholics to mark the site of the Virgin Mary's maiden home

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Cities of the World and, possibly, where the angel announced to her that she was to be the mother of Jesus. Nearby is the Church of St. Joseph, which is believed to be the site of the Joseph's carpentry workshop and the home of the Holy Family. The Church of St. Gabriel is built above a spring that connects to St. Mary's Well, just across the street. In the Greek Orthodox tradition, this is the site of the annunciation. Mensa Christi (Jesus' Table) is believed to have been where Jesus' celebrated his last supper with his disciples. Also of n ote is th e S yna gogue Church, which is not actually a synagogue but is believed to be the site where Jesus preached as a young man. Several Muslim sites are within the city as well. The El Abyad Mosque was the first to be built in the city (1812). The tomb of Abdullah etFahoum, the governor of Ottoman Nazareth and builder of the mosque, is located in the courtyard. The Maqam Shihab El-Din is a shrine to the nephew of Saladin. The Maqam Nabi Sa'in marks the highest point of Nazareth, where both Moslems and Christians used to come to make religious vows and oaths. Walking tours, either guided or selfguided, offer a chance to enjoy some of the natural beauty of the city and its surrounding area as well as its historic sites. The suburban Jewish municipality of Nazerat `Illit (Upper Nazareth) was built in 1957 on hills overlooking Nazareth. It has a panoramic view of the city below and houses the Northern Region’s administrat i v e b u i l d i n g s. R e s i d e n t s a r e e m p l o y e d i n a u t o a s s e m b l y, food-processing, and textile plants. East of Nazareth on the Tiberias road is Cana, where Christians believe Jesus performed his first miracle. First-time visitors to the Nazareth area often leave dismayed by the crowds, noise, traffic, and commercialism. NETANYA (also spelled Natanya), with a population of approximately

170,000, is a fast-growing resort and industrial center. Known as “the Pearl of the Sharon,” it lies on the Mediterranean, 19 miles north of Tel Aviv. Netanya was founded in 1929 by citrus growers and named after Nathan Straus (1848–1931), the American philanthropist and one-time owner of Macy’s department store. The city became urbanized in the 1930s, when European diamond-cutters fled persecution. Now this is the diamond-cutting capital of Israel, housing many workshops and showrooms. An industrial district here has textile mills and factories. Tourism also plays a large role in the local economy; the city’s seven miles of bathi n g b e a c h e s, l i n e d w i t h a landscaped promenade, are a source of great civic pride. A “Meet the Israeli at His Home” program offers visitors a chance to get to know residents in their homes over a cup of coffee. Regular bus service and sheruts (taxi shuttle service) provide transportation to other parts of the country.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Israel is a narrow strip of land at the eastern end of the Mediterranean, wedged between the sea and the Jordan Valley. About the size of New Jersey, the country is 280 miles long and varies from 10 to 41 miles wide, with a total area of 8,000 square miles. Since June 1967, Israel has administered the West Bank of the Jordan River, the Golan Heights, and Gaza. The highest point within the pre-1967 boundaries is Mt. Hermon, 3,963 feet; the lowest point is also the lowest point on earth—the Dead Sea, 1,300 feet below sea level. The climate varies considerably. The coastal plain has wet, moderately cold winters with temperatures of 38°F to 55°F; a beautiful

spring; a long, hot summer (80°F to 95°F); and a cool, rainless fall. Humidity in Tel Aviv is high, adding discomfort to the hot summers. Jerusalem, which is inland and approximately 2,500 feet above sea level, is drier. Thus, while Jerusalem is just as hot as Tel Aviv, it tends to be more comfortable. The inland hills are cooler than the plains and may have snow in winter. The southern section, the Negev, is a hot, barren desert. The only rain in Israel falls during winter and spring, usually in heavy downpours and thunderstorms. After the rainy season, drought becomes serious. As much winter rain as possible is held for irrigation; water from springs and rivers is also diverted for this purpose. S a n d s t o r m s, t h e s h a r a v, o r ham’seen, are quite common during spring and summer. This hot, parching wind from the inland desert carries with it fine sand. The sun becomes brassy, and the temperature may climb as high as 100°F in Tel Aviv, and higher in the Negev. July and August are generally the most uncomfortable months. Pleasant, warm weather usually extends into early November. Insects are abundant; scorpions are found in the Tiberias area, and there are poisonous snakes in the Negev. None presents a major problem.

Population Israel’s population, excluding the West Bank, the Gaza Strip, and East Jerusalem, is about 2.1 million. 80.1 percent are Jews, 14.6 percent Muslim, and 2.1 percent Christian. Jews are 20.8 percent native born; 32.1 percent are from Europe, America, and Oceania; 14.6 percent from Africa; and 12.6 percent from Asia. The literacy rate is 95 percent. Since 1989 there has been a huge influx of Jews from the former Soviet Union. Israel faces the problem of providing the newcomers with housing, jobs and education. Most of the Arab population lives in the Galilee and in villages along the 291

Israel border between Israel and the occupied territories. Nazareth is the largest primarily Arab town within pre-1967 borders. An additional one million Arabs reside in the cities and villages of the territories. Bedouins still live in the Negev near Beersheba and in other southern areas. In some Arab and Druze villages of the north and among the Bedouin in the south, many old, traditional Palestinian ways survive, little changed either by the British Mandate or by the State of Israel. The people who live in Israel come from many parts of the world. Although the majority learn Hebrew and are quickly absorbed into the life of the country, their diverse origins are apparent. The most striking evidence is the variety of languages spoken: English, German, French, Yiddish, Rumanian, Bulgarian, Russian, Polish, Spanish, and Latino. Hebrew and Arabic are the official languages of the country, but many Israelis speak excellent English. The government welcomes Jews from all over the world. Immigrants are taught Hebrew in ulpanim, intensive courses operated by the government. The ulpanim are only one arm of a phenomenally successful revival of the Hebrew language; it is also taught in schools and during compulsory military service. Virtually everyone speaks Hebrew but, for some 50 percent of the population, it is the second or third language.

Government Israel is a parliamentary democracy with supreme authority vested in the Knesset, a unicameral legislature of 120 members. Knesset elections are held every four years, or more frequently in the event of a cabinet crisis, which leads to a Knesset vote for new elections. For electoral purposes, the country is treated as a single national constituency. Each party provides a slate of 120 candidates, and Knesset seats are apportioned according to each 292

Cities of the World party’s percentage of the total vote, starting at the top of the lists. The president of Israel, currently Moshe Katzav, is ch osen fo r a five-year term by the Knesset; his duties are largely ceremonial and nonpartisan. The Prime Minister, Arial Sharon, is elected by the people. The Cabinet is responsible to the Knesset. Ministers are usually members of the Knesset, although nonmembers may be appointed. As no political party has commanded a majority in the elections, all cabinets have been coalitions. Civil and religious courts serve the three major Jewish, Muslim, and Christian communities. Religious courts have exclusive jurisdiction concerning marriage and divorce, which they decide according to their own religious laws. Since the Israeli Government considers Jerusalem the country’s capital, most Israeli Government ministries are located in that city. The Knesset (parliament) is also in Jerusalem, as are the official residences of the president and prime minister.

Jerusalem’s Role Before the June 1967 hostilities, the eastern sector of Jerusalem and all of the West Bank of the Jordan River were governed by the Kingd o m o f Jo r d a n . W h e n I s r a e l i Defense Forces overran this territory in 1967, the West Bank was placed under military government and is still considered “occupied territory.” The Arab sector of Jerusalem was, however, incorporated into the State of Israel and is now considered by Israel to be an integral part of the state. Arab Jerusalemites retain their Jordanian citizenship and passports, but are considered by Israel to be “residents” of Israel. The administration of the enlarged city is entrusted to the Jerusalem municipality. While the U.S. has had consular representation in Jerusalem for

over 100 years, the post’s present status in the city is based on the 1947 U.N. “Partition of Palestine” resolution. This resolution divided Palestine into two states, one Jewi s h a n d o n e A r a b. Je r u s a l e m , because of its unique religious and historical significance, was not included in either state. The city was set aside as a corpus separatum, an international area under the aegis of the United Nations. The “Partition of Palestine” resolution was never implemented. Immediately after the termination in 1948 of the British Mandate in Palestine, war broke out between Arabs and Israelis. At the conclusion of the hostilities, Jerusalem was divided, with Arab forces in control of The Walled City and the suburbs to the north and east, and Israeli forces in control of West Jerusalem. This division of Jerusalem was recognized de facto, but never de jure by the U.S. Government and most of the international community, the rationale being that the resolution of the status of Jerusalem should be determined through peaceful negotiation between Israel and Jordan. Determined to avoid any step that might prejudice the outcome of such negotiations, the United States maintained its embassy in Tel Aviv (where Israel initially established its government), and left the consulate general in charge of representing Ameri can int e rest s in t he divided city of Jerusalem. The de facto division of the city continued until the Six-Day War in June 1967, when the Israeli Defense Forces conquered the entire city of Jerusalem and the West Bank of the Jordan River. Shortly after the war, the Knesset passed legislation which, by administrative decree, enlarged the Jerusalem municipal boundaries to include what was formerly Arab Jerusalem, as well as areas of the West Bank. Fourteen years later, in 1981, Israel formally annexed the expanded city. The U.S. recognizes neither the expansion nor the annexation as legitimate; it has made clear its

Israel

Cities of the World belief that Jerusalem should be a united city within which would be available free access to the holy sites by people of all faiths and nationalities. Israel’s flag is white, with two horizontal stripes of blue. In its center is the Shield of David.

Arts, Science, Education Israel’s cultural, scientific, and educational institutions have played a significant role in blending a population of mixed geographic and cultural backgrounds into one nation. Free, primary education is compulsory until age 15. Secondary education, which is not compulsory, is also free. Most schools are state-operated, but many primary and secondary schools are run by Jewish and Christian groups. The major universities are the Hebrew University in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv University, Weizmann Institute of Science in Rehovot, and the Israel Institute of Technology (Technion) in Haifa. Other important schools are Bar-Ilan University in Ramat Gan, the University of Haifa, Ben-Gurion University of the Negev in Beersheba, the Bezalel School of Arts and Crafts in Jerusalem, and the Rubin Academy of Music in Jerusalem. Israel, enjoying a worldwide reputation in the sciences, can boast of one of the highest levels of scientific manpower and competence in the world. Israel’s principal private research institutions are the Weizmann Institute, which offers graduate degrees in basic and applied sciences and in science education; Hebrew University; and the Technion. Tel Aviv provides Israel’s liveliest cultural life, with publicly supported theaters and many small off-Broadway type theaters. Most productions are in Hebrew. The Israel Philharmonic, under the direction of Zubin Mehta, is one of

the world’s top orchestras. Its home is the Frederic R. Mann Auditorium in Tel Aviv, but regular concerts are also given in Haifa and Jerusalem. Season tickets usually are sold out each year, with some 24,000 subscribers in Tel Aviv alone. Occasionally tickets are available for individual concerts, as well as for special performances not covered by season tickets. Other symphonic orchestras are the Jerusalem, Haifa, and Galilee Symp h o n i e s. C h a m b e r e n s e m b l e s include Tel Aviv’s Israel Chamber Orchestra, the Beersheba Orchestra, and the Holon Chamber Orchestra. Tel Aviv has several internationally known chamber groups, including the Yuval Piano Trio, the Tel Aviv String Quartet, and the Israel String Quartet. The Israel Museum in Jerusalem and the Tel Aviv Museum are the principal public art museums in the country. Also, innumerable works are found in other sites—from the Chagall stained-glass windows at Hadassah Hospital in Jerusalem to modernistic sculpture dotting the countryside. Private art galleries abound in main cities and smaller towns. Some excellent small art and archaeological museums can be found in about 10 kibbutzim. Safed, Ein Hod, and old Yafo (Jaffa) are considered special art colonies. The Israel Museum also houses the outstanding collection of Dead Sea Scrolls, plus Jewish ceremonial objects, and archaeological finds. Te l Av i v ’ s M u s e u m H a a r e t z includes glass, ceramics, numismatic, ethnological, science, and technology museums, as well as the Archaeology Pavilion, a prehistory museum, and a planetarium. The Archaeology Museum, in a former Turkish bath in old Yafo, contains many local unearthed findings. Beth Hatefutsoth, the Diaspora Museum, on the campus of Tel Aviv University offers visitors a look at 2,500 years of Jewish history in excellently arranged contemporary exhibits.

Commerce and Industry From the founding of the State of Israel in 1948 until the 1973 Israel-Arab war, the nation enjoyed one of the world’s highest growth rates. The economy was characterized by rapid development, with Gross National Product (GNP) surging upward, sometimes at rates in excess of 10 percent a year in real terms. The pattern of rapid growth was necessary for the absorption of large numbers of immigrants and the building of a modern industrialized society. Large inflows of capital, mostly from the world Jewish community, permitted Israel to develop while consuming more than it produced. Israel has only limited natural resources and, until recently, no normal economic relations with its neighbors. Therefore, the nation wisely emphasized the development of a well-trained work force. The production base was built with emphasis on exports to Europe and the U.S. Substantial progress was made, and continues to be made, in developing these markets. A major problem of successive Israeli administrations has been the government budget. It is divided roughly into three parts—defense, domestic and foreign debt repayment, and the remainder of government outlays (including welfare spending). Considering Israel’s security situation, the government has found it difficult to cut defense spending over the years. Debt repayment must be made on time if Israel is to maintain its access to capital markets. In bargaining over the remaining one-third of the budget, the Israeli Government has run into the same domestic political roadblocks that have plagued most other Western democratic governments. It should be noted that U.S. assistance (in particular, massive military aid) is included in the government budget. Since the military aid is spent in the U.S. and the funds do not enter the domestic economy, the absolute size of the budget is not an accurate indication of the effect of central government spending on the economy. 293

Israel Soaring inflation rates have characterized the Israeli economy in recent years; however, the degree of inflation has always been somewhat higher than that of other Western nations. Since 1977, the rapid rate of price increases has brought Israel to triple-digit inflation; but, by and large, Israelis have not suffered excessively from these high rates. Wages, welfare payments, pensions, and other incomes, as well as most financial assets and liabilities, and ev en the exchange rate o f the shekel, are all adjusted periodically to take account of inflation. This “indexation” has allowed Israelis to cope with the situation but, at the same time, has made it difficult to lower the inflation rate. Even though Israelis individually are not impoverished by increasing prices, the economy suffers because of the distortions and uncertainties which inflation engenders. Analysts do not agree on the causes and ultimate solutions to the problem. It is clear, though, that large government budget deficits and resulting monetary expansion, imported food and fuel price rises, and expectations of further inflation all play major roles. The U.S. is an important trading partner with Israel. Israel’s other major trading relationship is with the European Community (EC). On July 1, 1977, Israel became an associate member of the EC, and all exports of manufactured goods now enter the EC duty free. Israel also benefits from the U.S. Generalized System of Preferences (GSP); over 2,700 of its products enter the U.S. duty free. Israel enjoys a free trade agreement with the U.S. as well as with the EC. The U.S. has extended to Israel over $30 billion in economic and military assistance since 1949, and over $840 million in 2000 alone. Nearly half of this is in the form of grants. The United States also provided $3.2 billion in assistance over the 1979–1982 period to help finance the Israeli withdrawal from the Sinai. As part of that support, the U.S. built two new air bases in the Negev to replace those Israel left in the Sinai. 294

Cities of the World Israel maintains Chambers of Commerce in Jerusalem, at Hillel Street 10, P.O. Box 183; in Tel Aviv, at Hahashmonaim Street 84, P.O. Box 20027; and in Haifa, at Ha’astsmaout Road 53, P.O. Box 33176.

Transportation Traveling to other countries from Israel is often inconvenient. Air links exist with many points in Europe, but fares may be considered high for the short distances involved. It is possible to arrange ground and air travel to Egypt, and to travel to other Arab countries via connecting flights from Cairo and Cyprus or by crossing the Allenby Bridge into Jordan. Arkia (Israel’s inland airlines) operates daily flights between Rosh Pina, near the Sea of Galilee, and Tel Aviv and Elat. Arkia also flies a Tel Aviv-Jerusalem route and conducts air/land tours for those with less time than money. Steamship service is frequent, particularly in summer, between Haifa and Cyprus, Greece, Turkey, and western Mediterranean ports. During summer, weekly auto ferries run between Haifa and Piraeus, touching at Cyprus and Rhodes en route; frequent sailings are available to Corfu and Italy. Trains run from Nahariya, near the Lebanese border, to Beersheba and Dimona in the Negev, and between Tel Aviv and Gaza. Frequent and inexpensive service operates among Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa. Hitchhiking, or “tramping,” is a way of life in Israel. Drivers are quite willing to stop for needy travelers. However, sudden pickups pose a traffic hazard. City taxis are quick, easy to hail, and usually metered. Group taxis, or sherut (Hebrew for service) operate within and between cities along predetermined routes. These run frequently, but only from central sherut stands for interurban runs.

Tel Aviv has an extensive bus system which is uncomfortable and crowded in rush hours. Service on interurban buses is good, although time consuming. Reasonably priced tour buses are both comfortable and enjoyable. Municipal buses, trains, and Israeli airlines do not operate between sundown on Friday and sundown on Saturday (Shabbat). Taxis, sheruts, and a tour bus line are available for the determined tourist on this day. A car is essential for most people who work in Tel Aviv—certainly for those who live outside the city proper. Almost any American car, even a compact, will be large by Israeli standards and may be difficult to maneuver through narrow, congested streets in some older parts of Tel Aviv (and other cities). Parking in town increases in difficulty proportionally. Apartment parking facilities in Tel Aviv are cramped, and much maneuvering is often required to get into and out of the space provided. Families who live in the suburbs, where parking is not a problem, often consider the safety aspects of a large, heavy car versus the convenience of smaller models. Road accidents, many of them serious, are frequent in Israel. Compulsory third-party liability insurance rates are fixed by the Israeli Government. A vehicle may not be moved until this coverage has been paid for in advance. Many people also carry a U.S. comprehensive policy which includes collision and theft insurance; it should be noted, however, that a claim is likely to be more easily settled with a local insurer. Although the annual inspection required for registration is gratis, several features are mandatory on all vehicles, and their installation can be costly. The most important of these features is asymmetric headlights; others are engraved engine numbers, side lights, and reflector strips. It is advisable to have asymmetric lights factory installed.

Israel

Cities of the World The damp, salty air and heavy dew at night make it difficult to start newer cars in the morning. Car covers will help protect against salt corrosion and rust. Air conditioning is useful during the hot summers. Auto repair in general, and even the smallest replacement parts, can be quite expensive. One should be prepared with a supply of spare replacement parts. Windshield wipers, antennas, and side mirrors have disappeared from cars parked in Tel Aviv. With few exceptions, the roads in Israel are good. Driving is on the right, and traffic signs follow international, rather than American, practice. Most street signs are printed in Hebrew, English, and Arabic.

Communications Israel has a countrywide, government-owned dial telephone network. Although it is a modern and growing system, a shortage of long-distance lines, especially to Jerusalem, can make dialing outside Tel Aviv frustrating. International calls are easily made through an operator and are usually clearer than calls placed locally. Satellite-telephone relay equipment connects with most parts of the world, except the Arab countries. Mail facilities are good. Reliable cable service exists to all but the Arab countries. Israel Broadcasting Authority, the government radio network, broadcasts on several standard AM and FM frequencies. Newscasts in English and French can be heard in the early morning, early afternoon, and mid-evening, and in Spanish early morning and evening. In addition, Radio Cyprus, Voice of America (VOA), and British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) are received on AM. Shortwave reception is spotty. Local broadcasting includes American and European popular and classical music, as well as Hebrew and Arabic programs. Classical music is

also aired on a special FM stereo station. The national television network airs a number of English-language programs originating from the U.S., England, and Canada. At a moderate expense, an antenna can be rigged to receive TV broadcasts from the Amman (Jordan) station, which also has several English-language programs. In addition, a special antenna can be purchased which will receive broadcasts of Middle East Television (MET), which telecasts Monday Night Football and other U.S. sports programs one week late, and a number of American reruns. MET, transmitting from southern Lebanon, has an evening news program in English. Reception of one Israeli and two Jordanian stations is good in Tel Aviv and its suburbs. American comedy shows are frequently shown, as are both old and fairly recent films in English. One of the Jordanian stations presents nightly news in English and French. Both Israeli and Jordanian TV operate on the European PAL system—625 lines, 50 cycles. Most programs are in color. Receivers purchased in the U.S. work on the American system and, if color, on NTSC. They will not operate in Israel without adaptation. This can be done locally, but it is expensive and not always satisfactory. The Jerusalem Post, a small independent daily newspaper, is an English-language paper in Israel. It covers most significant events concerning Israel, but is lacking in world news. Through an arrangement with the New York Times, the Post prints in its Monday edition the previous day’s “News of the Week in Review” section of The Times. Local dailies are also available in Arabic, Yiddish, Hungarian, Polish, Bulgarian, Rumanian, German, and French. Several Hebrew-language papers (Ha’aretz is the leading daily) are sold, including two in easy Hebrew for new immigrants. No papers are published on Saturdays

or Jewish holidays. The International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal, and USA Today arrive one day late. Major European newspapers are also available with short delays. Many major American periodicals are available at local newsstands; prices are double those in the U.S. Subscriptions by surface mail arrive irregularly in four to eight weeks. International editions of Time and Newsweek reach Tel Aviv within a day or two of publication, but subscription-copy delivery of air editions is slower. Bookstores are surprisingly few and carry limited stocks of English-language books other than current best-sellers.

Health Israel has one of the world’s highest ratios of medical doctors per patient. Physicians are extremely competent and well trained. English-speaking medical specialists in every field, dentists, oculists, and opticians are available. Most hospitals have laboratories, diagnostic clinics, obstetrical services, and other modern facilities. The majority of hospitals in Israel are good, but crowded, with a somewhat lower standard of housekeeping and auxiliary services than found in the U.S. Medical fees differ slightly from those in the U.S. American women who have given birth in Tel Aviv believe hospital maternity facilities rank favorably with American facilities. The numerous reliable and well-stocked city pharmacies are usually closed between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., but a rotating duty pharmacy is open weekends and holidays. Community health conditions in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are generally much better than in other Middle Eastern cities. Jerusalem, including the bazaar or suq area, is one of the cleanest cities in the Middle East. Municipal health controls are satisfactory. The water is safe to drink; public cleanliness, sewage, and gar295

Israel bage disposal are good. As in most tropical climates, insects in homes are not uncommon, especially in kitchens and pantry areas. The problem is most acute during summer, but insect-repellent shelving paper and other defensive weapons are available. During the summer months, flour and cake mixes, etc., should be stored in a cool area or refrigerator to prevent weevil infestation.

although at high prices. Sandals are a local specialty.

Tel Aviv has the usual contagious and communicable diseases, but none present a major problem. Amoebic dysentery and infectious hepatitis exist, but to a lesser degree than in other countries in the area. Fungus infections are frequent. Those allergic to dust, molds, and pollens may have trouble at times, and some people find the long, humid summers debilitating.

Israel is famous for its women’s leather coats and jackets, and for colorful hand-embroidered dresses and blouses. Street-length dresses are the most popular for evening wear, but long dresses, skirts, and caftans are also useful. Gloves and h a t s a r e u n n e c e s s a r y. A medium-weight coat is needed for winter; a fur stole may be useful for special winter events, but a fur coat is not.

Israel requires no immunization for entry into the country; however, typhoid, tetanus, and gamma globulin shots are recommended.

Clothing and Services Clothing worn in the Middle Atlantic States of the U.S. during spring, summer, and fall is suitable for Israel. The climate is hot and humid six to eight months of the year, making a large wardrobe of washable summer clothes advisable. Sportswear, shorts, sleeveless shirts and blouses, beachwear, and sneakers are appropriate. In winter, houses are chilly and tile floors are cold. A good raincoat, an ample supply of sweaters and shawls, an umbrella, and boots are important. Occasionally, woolen hats and gloves are needed in winter. While most types of clothing are available, they are expensive; many visitors purchase clothes (especially for children) through catalogues. Israeli shoes, made with European lasts, will not fit narrow feet, but shoes imported from Europe, especially Italy, are easily purchased, 296

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American men find that life in Israel is quite informal, and the open-neck shirt is predominant among Israelis in daily business. Formal wear is occasionally needed, but a dark business suit can be readily substituted. Topcoats and medium-weight suits are sufficient for winter.

Clothing for children of all ages is costly. Children’s shoes come in only two widths. Families assigned to Israel are advised to provide a sufficiently large wardrobe for each member initially, and to rely heavily on mail orders from the U.S. for future purchases. Tel Aviv’s salt air and humidity are hard on clothes and shoes. Most basic services are available in the cities. There are reasonably priced beauty salons, some of them excellent, in the neighborhoods, but salons in the larger hotels charge high rates. Dressmakers and tailors are fairly expensive; workmanship ranges from very good to only fair. Many good laundries and dry cleaners are available—again, with high prices. Some American cosmetics are manufactured by Israeli subsidiaries of U.S. firms, but local pharmacies, although well-stocked, do not carry American brands. In The Walled City of Jerusalem, many interesting items can be purchased. Among them are copper and brass pitchers, pots, and trays; olive-wood products; and various knickknacks.

Domestic Help Experienced domestic help is available, especially in Tel Aviv, and wages compare to those in the U.S. Most foreign residents rely on part-time help, although a few families (those with official or business responsibilities) have one or two full-time domestics. Baby-sitting is done by teenagers, but it is possible to find au pair girls or mothers’ helpers full time. Bartenders and waiters can be hired for evening functions.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Due to ongoing military activity in the west Bank and Gaza, the Department of State warns against travel to Israel. The situation in Jerusalem, the West Bank, and Gaza is very volatile, with potential for terrorist attacks, confrontations, and clashes. Travelers should exercise extreme caution and remain in close contact with the American Embassy in Tel Aviv. The normal travel routes from the U.S. to Israel are by air, direct from New York to Tel Aviv, or via a stopover in Paris or Rome. Travelers arriving in Tel Aviv may proceed to Jerusalem by bus or sherut (group taxi). No visas are required in tourist passports, but are issued at time of entry. Bearers of diplomatic and official passports must have Israeli visas before entering the country. No i mm u n iz at i o n i s r e qu i r e d, although typhoid, tetanus, and gamma globulin shots are recommended. Cats and dogs must have certificates of rabies inoculation. Other animals are admitted at the discretion of the veterinary officer, usually after a two-week quarantine (no quarantine in Jerusalem). Only the following nonautomatic firearms can be brought to Israel:

Israel

Cities of the World .22 rifles (1); and 12 or 20 gauge shotguns (1). One hundred rounds of ammunition (600 for shotguns) are allowed. Updated information is available from the Office of Export Control, U.S. Department of Commerce, Washington, DC. The time in Israel is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus two.

ian Orthodox and various Uniate churches and a large Lutheran church. Other denominations represented include Scottish Presbyterian, Baptist, and smaller fundamentalist Christian groups. Jewish congregations cover the full range from Reform to ultra-Orthodox. Most of the city’s Muslims are Sunni.

The Israeli shekel (IS) is the unit of currency. The shekel continues to fluctuate against an international “basket” of currencies, making it inadvisable to maintain large shekel accounts. Certain shops accept foreign currency but, in general, business transactions are made in Israeli currency.

Opportunities to share in religious services of all faiths are frequent and include quiet, weekly observances as well as feast and holy days. Christian, Jewish, and Muslim observances attract wide participation by the faithful, and many services are open to the general public.

The metric system of weights and measures is normally used. An exception is the dunam (one-quarter acre or one-tenth hectare), a land measure which dates back to Ottoman times.

SPECIAL NOTE Synagogues abound throughout Israel. Several churches are found in Yafo (Jaffa): St. Anthony’s and St. Peter’s (Roman Catholic); the Greek Orthodox; the Anglican (Episcopal); the Church of Scotland (Presbyterian); and Immanuel Church (Lutheran). Christian worship services in English (ecumenical, Anglican, Episcopal, and Roman Catholic) are conducted every Sunday in Herzlia Pituach in private homes; a Mormon congregation meets Saturdays in Herzlia Pituach. A Baptist mission near Petach Tikva is about a 20-minute drive from Tel Aviv. A Christian Science group meets Sundays in Tel Aviv’s Hilton Hotel. Jerusalem probably has the world’s highest per capita number of churches, synagogues, and mosques. Many buildings have historical, religious, and architectural significance. The Old City has Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, and Coptic patriarchates, and an Anglican church presided over by an archbishop. There are also bishoprics of the Syr-

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Jan/Feb. . . . . . . . . Feb/Mar. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Apr/May . . . . . . . . Apr/May . . . . . . . . Apr/May . . . . . . . . Apr/May . . . . . . . .

Apr/May . . . . . . . . May/June . . . . . . .

May/June . . . . . . . July/Aug . . . . . . . . Sept/Oct.. . . . . . . . Sept/Oct.. . . . . . . . Sept/Oct . . . . . . . . Sept/Oct.. . . . . . . . Nov/Dec . . . . . . . . *variable, based lunar calendar

New Year’s Day Tu B’Shevat* Purim* Passover* Israeli Independence Day* Yom HaShoah (Holocaust Memorial Day)* Yom Hazikaron (Soldier’s Memorial Day)* Yom Ha Atzmaut (Independence Day)* Lag B’Omer* Yom Yerushalayim (Jerusalem Day)* Shavuot* Tisha B’Av* Rosh Hashana (New Year) * Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement)* Sukkot (Feast of Tabernacles)* Simhat Torah (Rejoicing the Law)* Hannukah* on the Hebrew

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country. Ben-Tor, Ammon, ed. The Archaeology of Ancient Israel. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1992. Benvenisti, Meron. Conflicts and Contradictions: Israel, the Arabs, and the West Bank. New York: Shapolsky Pubs., 1990. Bickerton, Ian J., and Carla Klausner. A Concise History of the Arab-Israeli Conflict. New York: Prentice-Hall, 1990. Canaan, Garson. Rebuilding the Land of Israel. Stamford, CT: Architectural Book Publishing Co., 1991. Canby, Courtlandt. Guide to the Archaeological Sites of Israel, Egypt, and North Africa. New York: Facts on File, 1990. Fodor’s Israel. New York: McKay, latest edition. Kamel, Mohammed I. The Camp David Accords: A Testimony. New York: Routledge, Chapman & Hall, 1986. Keren, Michael. The Pen and the Sword: Israeli Intellectuals and the Building of the Nation-State. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1989. Leonard, Carol S., et al. Israel, Egypt, and the Palestinians: From Camp David to Intifada. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1989. Rivlin, Paul. The Israeli Economy. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1992. Tilbury, Neil. Israel: A Travel Survival Kit. Oakland, CA: Lonely Planet, 1989. Uris, Leon. Exodus. New York: Doubleday, 1957 (available in paperback, Bantam). 297

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Rome, Italy

ITALY Italian Republic

Major Cities: Rome, Florence, Milan, Naples, Palermo, Genoa, Trieste, Turin, Bologna, Venice Other Cities: Bari, Bergamo, Brescia, Bressanone, Cagliari, Catania, Messina, Modena, Padua, Parma, Siena, Syracuse

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2001 for Italy. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Like the Roman god Janus, Italy wears two faces. One, soft with the patina of age, looks back on a glorious history—the awesome monuments of Imperial Rome, the ruins of Pompeii, the magnificence of canal-fretted Venice or colorful Florence, cradle of the Renaissance. The other face, shiny new, reflects the modernity of a nation surging with superhighways, busy factories, and skyscrapers. N o r t h e r n I t a l y, c e n t e r o f t h e nation’s economic life, sprawls busily across the Po River plain. Industries sprout alongside timeworn medieval towns, and the alluvial soils make the area one of the richest agriculturally in southern

Europe. Terraces on mountain slopes along the northern border grow grapes for wines and mulberry trees for leaves to feed silkworms.

lines, and in getting repairs done on an emergency basis. Urban air pollution has become a serious problem, particularly in Milan, Rome, and Naples.

Central Italy is dominated by Apennine ridges. Once they helped bar unity; even now a village dialect may not be well understood only a few miles away. This is the nation’s heartland; the region of Dante, Saint Francis, and Leonardo.

Italy, as other Western democracies, currently faces striking economic and political challenges. It must reduce the economic differences between the wealthy north and the poorer south and control organized crime. In recent years, significant steps have been taken to deal with these problems, but they stubbornly persist.

Southern Italy, once poverty ridden and ravaged by malaria and erosion, rebounds under reclamation projects and expanding industry. Pacing its life is sunny Naples, the city of Vesuvius, of Capri, and Amalfi, of effervescent people who sing when they are happy, sad, or in love. Italy is one of the most attractive assignments in the Foreign Service. The country boasts not only a rich cultural and historical tradition, but also enjoys a varied, pleasant climate. Italians are favorably disposed toward Americans, partly for historical reasons, but mainly because of their general appreciation of things American. Americans generally enjoy Italy, though some find it more difficult than they expect. There is a chaotic element to life here that becomes immediately visible in street traffic, in bank

Approached with a spirit of adventure, humor, and patience, a tour in Italy is sure to be rewarding, both personally and professionally.

MAJOR CITIES Rome Rome, one of the world’s most famous cities, has been the capital of Italy since the nation’s unification in 1870. It surrounds the small independent Vatican State, worldwide capital of the Roman Catholic Church. Rome is located about halfway down the Italian Peninsula, 15 miles inland from the Tyrrhenian S e a , a s t r i d e t h e T i b e r R i v e r. 299

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Vatican City

Although the seven original hills of the city are small (roughly 44-50 feet above sea level), some of the hills on the west bank of the Tiber, such as Monte Mario (elevation 462 feet), are considerably higher. A city of about 2.6 million people, Rome is primarily a government and commercial center, though with growing industrial presence. It remains a city deeply imbued with a sense of history. Nevertheless, it is also a modern city with all the modern amenities, and difficulties. Rome is an international capital. Not only does it host the world headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church, it is also the home to the Food and Agricultural agencies of the United Nations (FAO). A sizable foreign community is in Rome. Approximately 17,000 Americans permanently live in the consular district, which includes the regions 300

of Lazio (Latium), Abruzzo, Marche, and Umbria.

worn for formal nights at the opera. Formal wear can be rented in Rome.

Food

Good ready-made suits are available, as are excellent tailors and a g o o d s e l e c t i o n o f m a t e r i a l s. Although prices vary greatly, the best tailoring is cheaper and the best material more expensive than in the U.S. Custom-made shirts of cotton and silk, worn by welldressed Italians, are expensive. Underclothing, socks, and readymade shirts are expensive. Fine silk ties and scarves, leather gloves, coats, and bags are a good buy.

A large variety of fresh produce is available locally. Prices and availability of particular items vary greatly with the season. Good beef can be hard to find, but veal is plentiful. Meats and poultry are much more expensive than in the U.S., and the meats are of different cuts. Groceries are available in great variety, including typically American cereals, crackers, and cheeses. Local bread keeps only a short time because it lacks preservatives.

Clothing Men: American clothing is practical and satisfactory. Summer suits of synthetic materials can be worn here 6 months a year. Winter suits, a medium-weight overcoat, and a raincoat are also needed. Sports jackets are very useful. Tuxedos are

Although Americans generally prefer American styling for their shoes, Italian shoes are considered attractive and are available in a wide range of styles and sizes.

Women: Wool or knit dresses and suits are popular and practical in Italy most of the year. American cottons are ideal for the summer. Cock-

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Cities of the World tail and short dinner dresses are worn frequently to the opera, concerts and parties. Sportswear of all kinds is useful. Dress shops are abundant in Italy, but the selection found in any one shop is limited. Clothing is in high fashion and made mostly of natural fibers (all wool, cotton, or silk). Casual wash-and-wear summer fashions are hard to find (i.e., knit tops and skirts). Winter skirts and sweaters are abundant, of good quality, and are reasonably priced. Remember that sizes and cuts are different and are not always to A m e r i c a n t a s t e. G o o d - q u a l i t y undergarments are usually more expensive than similar items in the U.S. Some American brands are found locally. Italian women occasionally have clothes made. This is expensive, but it assures quality. Quality materials are expensive, and simple cotton dresses may often cost as much as silk dresses. Silks and woolens, or blends, are beautiful and of good quality. Italian shoes are stylish and attractive, but sizes generally vary by length only and do not always fit American feet. A few stores carry American-last shoes. Good comfortable walking shoes are hard to find, but all-leather boots are abundant. Hats are seldom worn. Several hat shops in Italy sell ready made or made to order hats at prices comparable to those in the U.S. Ladies gloves and other leather goods are an Italian specialty and are generally cheaper than those in the U.S. Designer items from houses such as Gucci, Fendi and Valentino are expensive but cheaper than in the U.S.

Children: Beautiful handmade baby clothing and children’s party dresses are abundant but expensive. Play clothes for children under 10 are available, but also expensive. Practical, inexpensive items, such as no-iron polyester/cotton clothing, are generally not available locally.

Spanish Steps in Rome

David Johnson. Reproduced by permission.

Supplies and Services

Domestic Help

Adequate laundry and dry cleaning services are available, although not as numerous as in the U.S. Dry cleaning is expensive. Rome has both laundromats and coin-operated dry cleaning machines; however, paid attendants operate the machines with varying reliability. Shoe repair prices are comparable to those in the U.S. and the work is very good. Excellent hairdressers and barbers are available, but they are expensive by American standards. Several have English-speaking hairstylists. One should inquire about expertise with different hairstyles and types. It is possible to have an American manicure and pedicure.

Domestic help is expensive, particularly if you are seeking experienced personnel. Italian workers are rare and the majority does not speak English. There are many thirdcountry nationals available. The mandatory requirement for locally hired non-EU household workers is that they possess a valid sojourn permit for work in Italy.

Repairs to American radios, sound systems and electrical appliances are not always dependable because most local repairmen are not familiar with equipment made for the American market. It helps to have circuit diagrams or maintenance instructions for each item. Other repair services are generally good, b u t s u b s t a n t i a l e f f o r t may b e required to locate the particular service needed.

Household worker employment is governed by specific Italian laws and by a National Contract for H o u s e h o l d Wo r k e r s, w h i c h i s reviewed and renewed every four years. Italian law requires that employers pay several benefits, including health and social security insurance, food/lodging when appropriate, annual leave, 13th month bonus and termination pay. The cost of these benefits may equal the worker's basic salary. This applies to_ all workers (EU or non-EU citizens) regardless of whether they are temporary, full time, or part time. Workers' rights are based on Italian standards that are legally enforceable and failure to observe these basic standards can lead to unpleasant situations for the employer.

Inexpensive plug adapters that eliminate the need for changing American plugs are sold locally.

Churches, synagogues and mosques in Rome with services in English

Religious Activities

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include American Episcopal, Anglican, Baptist, Christian Scientist, Evangelical Assembly of God, Methodist, Mormon, Roman Catholic and Presbyterian. Services of other faiths include Bahai, German Lutheran, Greek, Seventh-day Adventist, Italian Waldensian Protestant, Jehovah's Witness, Russian Orthodox, Islamic and Jewish.

Education The following schools should be contacted as far in advance as possible for registration. Most schools provide student lunch facilities, athletic and recreational programs and bus service. The school year begins in September and ends in June. Good American, British, French and German schools are available. Private schools, including English and French, enroll an increasing number of Italian students because of disciplinary and curriculum reform problems in Italian public schools. American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR), Via Cassia 811, Rome 00189. Tel: 06 3326 4841, Fax: 3326 2608, E-mail: [email protected]. Nondenominational, coeducational day school offering instruction in the American educational system (kindergarten through grade 12.) Instruction is by a multinational but predominantly American faculty. The school program is primarily designed to prepare students for American universities. Credits are transferable to U.S. schools and colleges. The school has boarding facilities available for high school students at the Villa St. Dominique. Middle school students can board with local families. Preschool is available for 3- and 4-year-olds. Marymount International School, Via di Villa Lauchli 180, Rome 00191. Tel: 06 3630 1742, Fax: 06 3630 1738, E-mail: [email protected]. An independent private day school is operated by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Mary. It follows the same course system and offers the same credits as their school in Tarrytown, N.Y, which is guided by the N.Y State Board of Regents program. It also offers the 302

International Baccalaureate program. The faculty is primarily nonclerical and international, drawing many teachers from Ireland and Great Britain. Instruction is offered in English to girls and boys from kindergarten through grade 12. Early childhood classes are available for 3- and 4-year-olds. St. Stephen's School, Via Aventina 3, Rome. Tel: 06 575 0605, Fax: 06 574 1941. A private international high school accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges, it offers a program in English designed to meet the entrance requirements of U.S. and European universities through the International Baccalaureate program to boys and girls in grades 9 through 12. Faculty is primarily American. Boarding facilities are available for both boys and girls. The school does not provide bus service for day students. St. George's British International School, Via Cassia Km. 16, (La Storta) 00123 Rome. Tel: 06 3089 0141, Fax: 06 3089 2490, Email: [email protected] Nondenominational English day school, offering instruction in English to boys and girls from kindergarten through high school. Faculty is British and the curriculum is the standard general college preparatory program designed to prepare students for British schools and univers i t i e s. Fo r s t u d e n t s i n t h e International Baccalaureate program, it is adaptable for transfer to American schools and universities. CORE- The Cooperative School, Via Orvino 20, 00199 Rome. Tel/ Fax: 06 8621 1614. This school was established in 1983 by a group of British-trained teachers and was formed as a cooperative. It is open to children of all nationalities from ages 3 to 11. All lessons are in English, although an optional Italian program provides for those who wish to enter the Italian state system at a later date. The curriculum emphasizes the basic skills, with each CORE teacher specializing in a subject that they teach throughout

the school. Music, art, physical education and drama are part of their program. Ambrit Rome International School, Via Filippo Tajani, 50 00149 Rome. Tel: 06 559 5305, Fax 06 559 5309, E-mail: [email protected]. Providing an international education based on American and British approaches and techniques, the school's programs of study and activities foster the development of the whole child with opportunities for growth in all areas. Awareness and understanding of different cultures is encouraged, especially an appreciation of Italy, its language and its culture. Foreign language instruction is introduced at any early age.

Special Educational Opportunities American University of Rome, (300 students) Via Pietro Roselli 4, 00153 Roma. Tel: 06-58330919, Fax: 06-5833-0992, E-mail: [email protected]. Instruction is in English. AUR of fers bachelordegree programs in business administration, international relations, interdisciplinary studies, and Italian studies and an associate degree in liberal arts. The American University of Rome is accredited by the Accrediting Council for Independent Colleges and Schools and licensed by the Education Licensure Commission of the District of Columbia. It is the Rome studyabroad center for several American colleges and universities. John Cabot University, (400 students) Via della Lungara 233, 00165 Roma. Tel: 066819121; Fax: 066832088, E-mail: j cu@j ohncabot.edu. Instruction is in English. John Cabot University offers bachelor degree programs in business administration, international affairs art history and English language literature. Some associate degree programs are also available. John Cabot is affiliated with Hiram College in Ohio, which is accredited by the North Central Association of Colleges and Schools. All courses at John Cabot are transferable to Hiram College, which issues official

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Courtesy of MaryBeth Heikkinen

The Duomo rising above Florence, Italy

transcripts for John Cabot students. It is the Rome study-abroad center for several American colleges and universities. The Bologna Center of the Johns Hopkins University Paul H. Nitze School of Advanced International Studies (SAIS), Via Belmeloro 11, 40126 Bologna. Tel: 05-1232185, Fax: 05-1228-505, email:[email protected]. Instruction is in English. The Bologna Center is an integral part of The Johns Hopkins University's Paul H. Nitze School of Advanced International Studies (SAIS) in Washing-ton, D.C. The center offers an interdisciplinary program of graduate studies in international relations. Courses are given in international economics, European studies (history, politics and culture), international law, U.S. foreign policy, and related topics (demography, the environment. and human resources).

Degrees earned at the Center are granted by the Johns Hopkins University. Degrees offered: diploma in international relations (one year), M.A. in international relations (twoyears, with year two at SAIS in Washington), master of international public policy (MIPP- one-year program for mid-career professionals), and M.A. in international relations (two-year program for nonAmericans in Bologna). St. John's University, Oratorio San Pietro, Via Santa Maria Mediatrice 24, 00165 Roma. Tel: 06636937, Fax: 06636-901. Internet: http:/ /www.stjohns.edu/academics/cba/ graduate/rome.html. Instruction is in English. The Graduate Center of St. John's University, located at the Oratorio San Pietro in Rome, offers programs of study in business administration, church administration, and international relations. The M.B.A. program is fully accredited by the American Assembly of

Collegiate Schools of Business (A.A.-C.S.B.) and offers a full-time and part-time American M.B.A. with a concentration in international finance. The church administration program began in 1996; the M.A. program in international relations began in 1997. This is a program of St. John's University in New York.

Sports Almost any form of sports activity can be enjoyed in the vicinity of Rome, including golf, tennis, skiing, swimming, riding, boating, bicycling, hunting, and fishing. Spectator sports include soccer, boxing, horse racing, and auto and motorcycle racing. Much of Rome's sports activity is organized around private clubs. Most memberships in private clubs are expensive and are not refundable. The Acqua Santa Golf Club, 5 miles from the city, has an 18-hole 303

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course. The Olgiata Country Club, about 10 miles north of the city, has a 27-hole golf course, swimming pool, tennis courts, riding horses, and a fine clubhouse. The membership fee is very high and you need a club member sponsor. Several other tennis and swimming clubs are open to Americans. It should be noted that all sports/ recreational facilities are very expensive to join. Good sports equipment is available locally.

Touring and Outdoor Activities An incredible number and variety of places of historical and artistic interest are found in and around Rome. Commercial and cultural organizations arrange tours and visits daily. Tours are conducted in a variety of languages, including English. Naples is less than 3 hours by car and Florence is almost as close. Rome itself has major monuments and archeological and historical sites. These exist in greater richness and variety in Italy than in any other country. The many good guidebooks to Italy available locally or in the U.S. give details on tourist attractions. Many recreation areas and campgrounds are found in the countryside. Good, but often crowded, beaches with cabanas and some beach equipment for rent lie within 20 miles of Rome and can be reached by public transportation. To the south, 2 hours or less by car, are beautiful and spacious beaches. Terminillo and Ovindoli, 2 hours by car or bus, are the nearest ski resorts with tow systems and equipment for rent. Some hunting and fishing is available in the countryside around Rome, but most hunting is generally limited to invitation-only private reserves. Horses are available from several riding academies in Rome at reasonable prices. Hikers and mountain climbers will find a wealth of possibilities in the 304

The Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy

Courtesy of MaryBeth Heikkinen

nearby Apennines. The Club Alpino Italiano offers 1-day trips for mountain hiking and, in winter, crosscountry skiing.

evening. Prices for most of these musical events are reasonable. Visiting theatrical groups, as well as local pageantry, offer additional interest.

Rome has many parks for children. The large, beautiful Villa Borghese park has a zoo, a small theater where children's movies are shown in Italian, Punch and Judy shows, pony rides, small bicycles for rent, a lake with boats for rent, and a large playground.

Entertainment

Rome has many discos and a few nightclubs. Good restaurants are plentiful, some steeped in atmosphere and others featuring famous food specialities. Many places offer outdoor dining in summer. Meals in fine restaurants can be expensive, but the discerning diner can often find a good buy as well as a good meal.

Rome offers a variety of entertainment facilities appropriate to a major capital city. Knowledge of Italian is valuable. Movie theaters show current Italian, American, and other films with Italian soundtracks. One or two theaters offer French, English, and American films with original soundtracks.

Rome has a variety of American organizations for men and women. Several hold monthly luncheons. Cub Scout and Brownie packs and Boy Scout and Girl Scout troops are supported by the American community.

Several theaters present classics, modern plays, and revues, usually in Italian. Rome’s formal opera season opens in December and continues through May, with excellent productions and performances by leading Italian artists. During the summer, opera moves outdoors to the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla and Ostia Antica. Concert performances are given frequently during the winter season; outdoor performances are held in summer, usually in the late

Social Activities

Florence Described by Petrarch as the “Pearl of Cities,” Florence’s glorious past and dynamic present never cease to fascinate students and visitors from all parts of the world. The splendors of the Italian Renaissance are seen not only in its famous churches, palaces, and museums, but are also kept alive in the tradition of craftsmanship, which makes Florence

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Cities of the World and the region of Tuscany one of the world’s major artisan centers. Florence is in the heart of a rich agricultural region whose principal products are cereal grains, vegetables, olives, and the famous Chianti wines. The city has a population of 500,000. About 30,000 are non-Italian residents, mainly other Europea n s, A m e r i c a n s a n d C h i n e s e citizens. Most members of the foreign colony (except the Chinese) and the Italians who move in this circle speak English. Very few in the general Italian population, however, and virtually no Italian officials speak or understand English. Shopkeepers, travel agencies, and hotels catering to tourists have Englishspeaking personnel.

Religious Activities The following churches have services in English: Christian Science Church, Via Baracca 150; Convento Ognissanti (All Saints Catholic), Borgo Ognissanti, 42; St. James American Church (Protestant Episcopal), Via Rucellai, 15; St. Marks (Anglican), Via Maggio, 16.

Education The American International School of Florence offers an American curriculum as well as an international baccalaureate program for children from preschool through grade 12, with preparation for American schools and colleges. Transportation is available. The address is Villa La Tavernule, 23/25 Via del Carota, 50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Firenze). Tel: 640033. Information on tuition and other charges can be obtained by writing directly to the school. Florence also has a number of good private and state-run nursery and elementary schools. Italian is the language of instruction in most of these schools, although a few teach in French or German. Many schools provide bus transportation at an additional charge. A number of American parents have found Italian public schools very satisfactory, especially in the lower grades. No English-language schools are in Florence for children with learning

Courtyard of Uffizi in Florence

disabilities. Italian schools include handicapped children in classes with regular students under the guidance of specially trained teachers.

Special Educational Opportunities Over 30 American colleges and universities, including some of the most prestigious, conduct a rich and wide range of full semester and summer programs in Florence and in other cities. Several excellent schools in the Florence area, graduate and undergraduate, specialize in the fine arts, Italian language and culture, and music. These include the Pius XII Institute, the University of Florence

Courtesy of Linda Irvin

Center of Culture for Foreigners, the Luigi Cherubini Conservatory of Music, the Instituto Statale d’Arte, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti. Tutoring is available in art, music, and Italian language.

Sports There is ample opportunity to enjoy sports in the Florence area. Golf, tennis, swimming, riding, bicycling, hunting, and fishing are the most popular participant sports. Spectator sports are mostly limited to horse- racing and soccer. A great deal of sports activity centers around private clubs. The Ugolino Golf Club, about a 30minute drive from the city, has an 305

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excellent 18-hole course and swimming pool. The Circolo del Tennis offers good tennis courts and a small swimming pool. Children under 10 are not allowed to use the pool. Membership in both clubs is rather expensive. Public sports facilities are limited to a number of children’s playgrounds and a few large public swimming pools. Horseback riding is also available in and near Cascine Park. Good sports equipment is available locally, but usually at higher than U.S. prices.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The hills and mountains surrounding Florence are excellent for hiki n g, p i c n i ck i n g, a n d c a m p i n g. Fishing and small game hunting are also popular in this area. In winter, there is skiing at nearby Abetone and Vallombrosa. Equipment can be rented at moderate rates at both places. Seaside resorts and public beaches dot the Tyrrhenian coast within easy weekend distance of Florence. Closest resort areas are concentrated around the towns of Forte dei Marmi, Viareggio, and Tirrenia. Florence and the surrounding countryside are rich in points of historical and cultural interest. Besides the world-famous museums, churches, and palaces in the city proper, hundreds of charming and historically important villas, monasteries, and churches are within its environs. Bologna, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, and a number of smaller towns of great cultural interest are all within easy driving distance. In addition, excellent autostrade and train service link Florence with most major Italian cities, making them accessible for weekend trips. Many good camp sites with facilities are open during the summer throughout Italy. 306

Entertainment

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Each season a number of worthwhile cultural and artistic events happen in Florence. The city’s musical life reaches its high point in May and June with the Maggio Musicale featuring concerts and operas by world-famous performers and conductors. In addition, a winter opera season is followed by a concert season and many other musical events throughout the year. Open-air concerts are given at the amphitheater in Fiesole and in various locations in Florence during the summer. Plays are occasionally performed at the city’s two theaters, the Pergola and the Verdi, always in Italian.

The city has an active American community, and ample opportunities for to make rewarding friendships with other Americans in the area. Much of the charitable and social activity for Americans centers around the St. James American Church and the American International League. Other American organizations with primarily Italian memberships include the American Chamber of Commerce, Rotary Clubs, and Lions Clubs.

Movies are very popular with Italians, and the city has many cinem a s. Fo r e i g n f i l ms a r e s h o w n dubbed in Italian. There is a small English-language cinema that has films most of the year. Florence is the site of a number of important fairs, including a crafts f a i r, a b i e n n i a l i n t e r n a t i o n a l antiques fair, a gift fair, and others. Florence and other nearby towns have traditional pageants and festivals, with participants in medieval costume, held in the spring, summer, and fall. Among the most important are the Scoppio del Carro and Calcio in Costume in Florence, the Palio in Siena, and the Giostra del Saraceno in Arezzo. Florence has many bookstores, some with a good selection of books in English. The American Library of the University of Florence and the library at St. James American Church both have many general interest books in English. A wide selection of music, camera equipment, and film is available locally at prices generally higher than in the U.S. Florence and the other cities of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna have many good restaurants, ranging from the high-priced deluxe to the inexpensive, simple establishments called “trattorie.” The nightclubs of Florence are few and expensive.

The opportunities f or forming f r i e n d s h i ps w i t h I ta l i a n s a n d nationals of other countries are limited only by the initiative of the individual. The many social, cultural, and charitable organizations in Florence offer occasions for meeting Italians. In addition, several fore i g n c u l t u r a l o r g a n i z a t i o n s, including the British Institute, the Institute Francais de Grenoble, and the Kunsthistorisches Institut, present opportunities for getting acquainted with other foreign resident communities in Florence.

Milan Milan is a city of contrasts. Old buildings, some dating from the Middle Ages, line the narrow winding streets of the central portion of the city, while modern glass and marble skyscrapers and wide boulevards characterize the newer areas. The city has a bustling atmosphere reminiscent of New York or Chicago and has been called the least Italian of all Italian cities. It is surrounded by an extensive and growing industrial area. A number of satellite cities have been built, many characterized by two- to six-story medium-priced apartment complexes interspersed with park and garden areas. Milan itself is a city of apartment buildings; most range from six to eight stories. Practically all Milanese live in apartments, and the American one-family house with its yard and garden is found only in the suburbs. An extensive and growing industrial area surrounds Milan. A number of satellite cities

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ment of Commerce frequently holds exhibits of U.S. products and services at the trade fairs staged in Milan.

Milan is not a tourist city. While probably 1.5 million tourists (10%15% are Americans) travel through Milan, most are on their way to another destination. Many stop briefly to see the principal tourist attractions: the Milan Cathedral (Duomo), an amazing structure in flamboyant Gothic and the third largest cathedral in the world; the Brera Museum, one of Italy’s outstanding galleries; and the Santa Maria delle Grazie church, the refectory of which contains Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. Another major attraction is a performance at the world-famous La Scala opera house.

The permanent foreign colony in the area is substantial, including at least 5,000 Americans and a slightly smaller number of British nationals. Swiss, German, and Austrian nationals compose a large part of the foreign population.

For the resident, one of the finest aspects of life in Milan is its proximity to the Italian lake district, Alpine ski and summer resorts, the Italian Riviera and Adriatic beaches, and the tourist centers of Florence and Venice. By train, car, or plane, practically all of continental Europe can be reached in a day’s travel time. Milan is at about the same latitude as Ottawa, Canada, but the climate is temperate. Winter temperatures average 40°F–50°F; summer temp e r a t u r e s 6 5 ° F – 8 5 ° F. M i l a n receives about 30 inches of rainfall a year; snow usually appears only a few times from December to March. Bring year-round clothing for the whole family, including gloves, hats, scarves for winter, and lightweight clothing for summer.

The amenities of urban life—electricity, gas, central heating, elevator service, garbage collection, telephone service—are almost on a par with those in the U.S. In recent years, Milan has become one of the most expensive cities in the world, and almost everything on the economy is more expensive than in the U.S.

Religious Activities Most Milan churches are Roman Catholic and use the Ambrosian rite. The Santa Maria del Carmine Catholic Church holds services in English. Other Catholic churches hold only Italian-language services, although the cathedral and a few other churches have English-speaking priests who will hear confessions. The following Protestant churches hold services in English: Methodist Church, Via Porro Lambertenghi 28, Sunday at 10:45 am; All Saints’ Episcopal Church (Church of England in communion with American Episcopal Church), Via Solferino 17, Sunday at 10:30 am; Church of Christ, Via del Bollo 5, Sunday at 10:30 am.

The headquarters of many of the largest Italian industrial firms are located in Milan, along with the headquarters of many of Italy’s leading industries, trade associations, and largest banks. The city hosts many specialized trade fairs, national and international, throughout the year.

Christian Science Church, 16 Via Bigli, holds English services every Sunday morning and on Wednesday evening.

Milanis home to one of Europe’s largest trade exhibition centers, the Milan fairgrounds. The U.S. Depart-

The North Italy Mission of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormon) is located at

A Jewish synagogue located in Via Guastalla 19, holds evening prayer service daily in Hebrew and Italian; telephone 791-851.

Via Gadames 128, telephone 3087025. Two of the largest local Islamic associations are located at Viale Monza 160 and Via Fara 30.

Education The American School of Milan (ASM) is a nonprofit institution accredited by the Midwest State Association. ASM offers a typical American high school diploma as well as an International Baccalaureate (I.B.) for those students who qualify. Many U.S. colleges and universities recognize the I.B. as equivalent to up to one full year of college education. Recent ASM graduates have attended Harvard, Stanford, Princeton as well as other prestigious U.S. schools. ASM is directed by an elected board of governors. There is currently a Director and Vice Director of the school. ASM is located in modern facilities on about 10 acres near the outskirts of Milan, about 1/2 hour by car from the center of the city. It averages an enrollment of about 500, including about 160 American students, and offers a full American curriculum from nursery through grade 12. Over 70% of the teaching staff is American. In the high school, almost half the courses are honors, advanced placement, or international baccalaureate level. Class sizes are usually small, and SAT scores are generally above average. The school also offers extensive athletic, music, drama, and other extracurricular programs. Field trips throughout Europe are regularly scheduled for upper grades. Children with serious learning disabiliti es cannot be effectively accommodated. There is no learning disabilities instructor currently at the school. ASM offers optional bus service, which provides service to the city. Every effort is made to ensure that a bus stop is within easy walking distance of each passenger's home. 307

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Milan has two other institutions, the British School and the International School, which offer Englishlanguage instruction under the British educational system. Although these may be adequate at the elementary level, there are possible accreditation issues involved for middle or high school students returning to the U.S. or transferring to other American system schools. There are also German, Dutch, S w i s s , F r e n c h a n d Ja p a n e s e schools. American children are ordinarily accepted in the Italian kindergartens and elementary grades without special formalities. Although the Italian educational system is good, inevitable language and curriculum problems occur, which become more serious in the higher grades.

Special Educational Opportunities The three universities in Milan offer instruction only in Italian. Private and community-sponsored adult education courses are also available to Italian speakers in a wide variety of subjects ranging from the arts to technical areas such as engineering and accounting. Arrangements can be made in Milan for private lessons or tutoring in languages, music, art, dance, tennis, and horsemanship. The Open University offers BA, BSc, MA, MSc, and MBA diplomas as well as professional training certificates from a range of over 150 correspondence courses in English. The opera and ballet schools of La Scala attract advanced students of music and dance from many parts of the world. Many private teachers in these fields are directly or indirectly associated with La Scala.

Sports While Milan has some outdoor sports facilities, most are on the outskirts or beyond the city proper. With few exceptions, Milan’s private clubs are exclusive and expensive. Few Americans join. A small number of health clubs with swimming pools are available at fees equivalent to similar U.S. clubs. 308

Within the city are public indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Public pools are quite crowded on holidays and during summer weekends. Several riding schools and clubs are located in the city and in the suburbs. Private and group riding lessons may be arranged. The nearest golf courses are private clubs at Monza, Barlassina, Carimate, and Montorfano. All are within reasonable driving distances of Milan. Some occasionally issue honorary memberships, particularly to principal officers. Otherwise, large, nonrefundable initiation fees (several thousand dollars) are required. Others, with smaller initiation fees, rarely have enough turnover in membership to accept new members. There is one public golf course that is located on the outskirts of Milan. The city’s two Ice Palaces are open for ice skating from October to April. A number of American-style bowling alleys can be found in Milan and the near suburbs. In summer, boating and swimming in the nearby lakes (Como, Maggiore, Garda, Lugano) and picnicking in the vicinity are popular. Swimming areas at the lakes usually have rock or gravel beaches, and in some areas swimming is only possible by diving from rocks. The nearest ocean beaches are around Genoa (2 hours by autostrada or 2 3/4 hours by rapido train). Many ski areas are within an easy drive of Milan, including several within 2 hours of the city, so that even 1-day trips are feasible. Ski season usually runs from November or December through April or May. Resorts provide accommodations in all price ranges. Slopes range from very easy to very difficult, with all types of lift facilities. The lower Alpine areas are popular with mountain climbers during the summer; climbing areas for the beginner and the expert are available.

Baseball has a small following in Italy, and a number of amateur teams compete during the summer in the Milan area. Basketball is becoming increasingly popular; four major professional and semiprofessional teams are in the area. American football is beginning to find its place in the sporting scene. A racetrack on the outskirts of Milan has horse races 5 days a week from spring through fall and 3 days a week in winter. Italy’s principal spectator sport is soccer, which is played almost year round. Milan h a s t w o c l a s s A t e a m s. T h e i r matches at the San Siro Stadium draw crowds of up to 85,000. Hunting and fishing in season are popular among Italians; licenses are required.

Touring and Outdoor Activities In addition to the participation and spectator sports described above, northern Italy and neighboring France and Switzerland have much to offer the sightseer. Many points of historical and artistic interest are easily reached on 1-day trips.

Entertainment Milan offers rich entertainment for the music lover. There is a large number of concert and recital series throughout the winter, many pres e n t i n g w o r l d f a m o u s a r t i s t s, orchestras, and chamber music groups that feature music from all eras. The opera season at La Scala begins early in December and runs through mid-July. Eight or nine theaters in Milan present legitimate stage productions (all in Italian), ranging from Shakespeare and Chekhov to works of contemporary Italian and foreign playwrights, to musical revues and operettas. Milan has as many cinemas as any large American city, presenting foreign as well as Italian films. Several movie theaters present foreign

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Social Activities The following organizations offer excellent opportunities to make international contacts: the Benvenuto Women's Club, meets monthly and regularly organizes additional inter-cultural programs for its international membership. Americans in Milan is a group of Americans who operate under the umbrella of the Benvenuto Club. Monthly luncheons organized by the American Business Group are attended by Americans from a broad spectrum of American and Italian businesses. The American Chamber of Commerce in Italy consists of Americans in business in Italy and Italian business representatives from firms doing business in the U.S. Its headquarters are in Milan; the Honorary President is the American Ambassador in Rome. Its business meetings and luncheons offer a chance to meet Italians in the commercial and economic fields. The Professional Women's Association has monthly evening meetings that provide professional women the opportunity to gather and make contacts in a social setting.

Naples Few cities have undergone the social, political, and cultural changes that Naples has in its long and colorful history. Although Naples is a modern city with a range of modern problems, including crime, over-population, unemployment, traffic congestion, air pollution, and a stagnant urban center, it remains a beautiful city, a mixture of the old and modern, a city of great historical interest. Once a major Greek colony, and later ruled by the Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Swabians, and the Houses of Aragon and Bourbon, Naples is today a city of diverse cultural styles and competing historical influences. The splendid natural setting of the bay, flanked by Mount

Vesuvius, the Sorrento Peninsula, and the islands of Capri and Ischia, continues to attract a heavy stream of visitors from all over the world. Although Naples is a major seaport and an industrial and distribution center for southern Italy, the city's economy is still dominated by small artisans and entrepreneurs. Many foreigners live in Naples, with Americans forming the largest group. A small American business community and about 10,000 American military personnel and their dependents live in the area.

Religious Activities There are numerous Catholic churches throughout the city, with a weekly English-language Mass sponsored by the Filipino community at Gesu' Nuovo on Sunday afternoon. Other churches with services in English are: AFSOUTH Chapel. Catholic services at the NATO Base. Armed Forces Chapel. Nondenominational Protestant services, Sunday school, and Catholic Masses are held at the Naval Support Activity, Capodichino complex. Christ Church. (Anglican/Episcopalian) at Via San Pasquale, Chiaia 15B. Christian Science. Chapel behind Christ Church. Church of Christ. Viale Augusto 164. Latter-day Saints. Piazza Vittoria 6. A Jewish military chaplain visits Naples at regular intervals. There is an Italian synagogue in Naples that holds Sabbath services provided by a lay person and services at major holidays. In addition, the U.S. military forces sponsor services on the last Friday of each month and on certain high holy days.

Education The Department of Defense operates two schools: an elementary/middle school (which includes

kindergarten), and a high school, both located at the new Gricignano facility that is nearly an hour outside of Naples. The schools are staffed with trained, experienced American teachers. These schools have special educational facilities for mildly developmentally delayed children and those with hearing and speech problems. They are accredited by the North Central Association of Colleges and Secondary Schools. There is an active after school athletic program that includes volleyball, basketball, football, soccer, gymnastics, track, and tennis. There is a school newspaper and other extracurricular activities such as choir, band, drama, and science club. Bus transportation is provided at no extra charge if you are on an established route. The DOD buses will not go to neighborhoods where military dependent children do not reside. The school cafeterias serve soup, sandwiches, and milk at fair prices. The schools have no boarding facilities. The Allied Nursery and Kindergarten School, a cooperative endeavor, is run by wives of NATO personnel. Located in one of the buildings at NATO Headquarters at Bagnoli, it provides instruction five mornings a week. transportation to and from school costs extra. There is usually a waiting period for admittance. The International School of Naples, also located on the NATO base, is private, coeducational day school of about 150 students offers instruction in English from kindergarten through grade 12. The nongraded method of class assignment is used from grade 5 on. It is accredited by the European Council of International Schools. Teachers are American and British citizens, except for the Italian-language instructor. Emphasis is placed on a classical college preparatory curriculum. Bus transportation is provided from most areas of Naples. The Italian-American Montessori School, also located on the NATO base, this school of about 300 students offers an English-lan309

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guage, American curriculum to children in kindergarten through grade 8, based on the teaching philosophy of Marie Montessori. Teachers are American or British. American textbooks are used in all classes. Bus transportation is available from most areas of Naples. The University of Naples. The main campus is in the downtown section of the city. This school enjoys an excellent reputation and provides courses in agriculture, architecture, economics and commerce, engineering, law, letters and philosophy, medicine and surgery, naval affairs, oriental languages, pharmacy, science, mathematics and physics, and veterinary medicine. It is not too difficult for a foreigner to enroll in the university; however, instruction is in Italian.

Special Educational Opportunities Naples boasts an Academy of Fine Art and a Conservatory of Music that Americans sometimes attend. At the NATO complex, the Universities of Maryland and Oklahoma offer courses leading to master's degrees in education, business administration, and human relations, and the University of Maryland and other schools offer undergraduate classes in various subjects. The University of Maryland and a growing number of other institutions also offer undergraduate and advanced degree courses via the Internet. (There are several Internet service providers available in Naples.) The French Institute gives French-language instruction to children and adults. Upon successful completion of various levels at the Institute, University of Grenoble certificates of accomplishment are awarded. Local schools offer typing, stenography, and related business subjects in English. Language instruction is available. Private tutoring is available for persons wishing to study the language independently at a cost of approximately $25 an hour. 310

Recreation and Social Life Naples offers ample opportunity for sports and outdoor recreation during the long summer season. The Bay of Naples is ideal for sailing. Several beaches suitable for swimming are within an hour's drive. In the winter, Roccaraso, a mountain ski resort about 2-1/2 hours from Naples, offers trails for beginners as well as experienced skiers. Skis and other equipment can be rented locally or at the resort at, reasonable prices. The Naples area has many interesting places for hiking, sightseeing, and picnicking, including the islands of Capri and Ischia and the beautiful towns along the Amalfi Coast Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. For artists, historians, and interested amateurs, Naples and the surrounding regions are rich in possibilities. The Palazzo di Capodimonte, with its large collections of paintings, tapestries, arms, and furniture, is one of the most impressive museums in Italy. The National Museum houses the world's finest collection of Roman antiquities, many of them recovered from Pompeii. Countless numbers of small churches, museums, and castles within the city reflect the many periods and styles of Neapolitan history. Excursions outside the city to places such as Paestum, Pompeii, and Herculaneum (to name only the most famous) offer unparalleled opportunities for exploring the remains of earlier civilizations. Many other sites in southern Italy can be visited in the course of weekend outings by car. Sports attire commonly seen in the U.S. is acceptable in this region.

Entertainment The season at the world-famous San Carlo Opera begins in January and runs until December (as opposed to the norm of September to June). The 18 first-run Naples cinemas only occasionally offer films in English. In addition to plays and variety shows presented in five the-

aters in Naples, some spectator sports events are available.

Palermo Palermo is the capital of the region of Sicily, an area given broad powers of self-government by the national government in 1947. The city of Palermo, with a population of over 800,000, lies in a valley delineated by sharp rocky mountains that reach to the sea, with the Bay of Palermo presenting a topographical outline of striking natural beauty. Though the city itself consists of a fair number of up-to-date commercial structures and many modern apartment buildings, it is also rich in Arab, Norman, and Spanish architecture, among others. The importance of these cultures in the history of Sicily is reflected in the many buildings that were left behind. Winters are mild, and temperatures seldom drop below freezing. The famed Sicilian sunshine is no myth, and the weather is clear and sunny most of the year, with little rain during summer and fall. Daily routine in Sicily is strongly influenced by the hundreds of years of Spanish rule. Meals are served late, lunch at 1:30 or 2 pm, and dinner at 8:30 to 9:30 pm. The noon meal is generally the larger of the two. A siesta after lunch is common, and all shops are closed from about 1 to 4 pm and remain open until 7:30 or 8 pm in the evening.

Food The grocery markets of Palermo are full of almost all types of food. One of the great joys of food shopping is the large variety of fresh vegetables, fruits, nuts, and seafood. Most prices are comparable to those in the U.S., with the exception of meat, soap, and paper goods, which are about twice as expensive. Bread and wine are inexpensive and delicious. Palermo has several open-air markets that offer a unique view of one aspect of Sicilian life—the loud, boisterous methods of bargaining

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Cities of the World and selling. The city also has a few “supermarkets,” but most people patronize the three or four small neighborhood shops, where one can buy everything needed. However, necessities for anything other than Italian cuisine are difficult to find on the local market. Dining out in the Palermo-Mondello area can be a great experience, especially if one enjoys seafood. Prices are comparable to those in the U.S. Scores of good restaurants offer delicious traditional Sicilian dishes. The food lacks variety, however, since restaurants serving nonItalian fare are few in number.

Religious Activities An Anglican church in Palermo holds services in English. Since the pastor divides his time between Palermo and Taormina, the church is sometimes closed for several weeks or months. Three other Protestant churches offer services in Italian only. Catholic churches are numerous; one, the Church of Santa Lucia, Via Ruggero Settimo, in downtown Palermo, holds Mass in English each Sunday at 5:30 pm.

Education No English-speaking schools are in Palermo, nor are there any educational facilities available for learning-disabled children. Local schools—public, private, and parochial—accept foreign children at all levels. Palermo schools offer instruction only in Italian.

Special Educational Opportunities No truly specialized training opportunities are in Palermo, although it is possible to pursue many and varied hobbies, sports, and crafts generally found in most other cities in Western Europe—if one speaks Italian. Pottery-making is one such craft that is popular in the city.

Sports Palermo offers a wide range of spectator sports, with soccer the most popular. The city has a professional soccer team. There is horse and har-

ness racing and an annual horse show. A local tennis club has excellent courts, and stars from all over the world compete at the annual invitational tournament. Sports and outdoor activities are popular year round but particularly in summer. The centers for water sports are the nearby beaches and clubs of Mondello, a 15-minute drive from the center of the city. Swimming, boating, sailing, fishing, water skiing, and skin diving are very popular. Along the coast, small open beaches and rocky coves, which are usually crowded, offer the swimmer and skin diver a chance to discover the wonders of the Mediterranean. Sailing is popular, and several private sailing clubs are found in the Palermo area. In addition, a number of enchanting islands off the coast offer opportunities for water sports. The city has a modern bowling alley, two squash clubs, and several modestly equipped gymnasiums that offer lessons in judo and karate, with facilities for men and women. The scarcity of wild game (except rabbits and small birds) and the strict regulations governing the import and purchase of guns discourage most would-be hunters. A target range using clay pigeons is av a i l abl e for t he ent hus i as t i c marksman. Sicily has no golf courses. Skiing is done in the Madonie Mountains, 2 hours away, and on Mount Etna, 4 hours away. Camping facilities are available at various places throughout the island. A good variety of sports equipment can be found at the many sporting goods stores in Palermo at prices comparable to those in the U.S.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Touring is one of the real delights of Palermo. Even the casual observer is impressed by the grandeur of Sicily’s monuments and the beauty of the countryside. The National Museum of Palermo contains priceless artifacts dating from prehistoric, Greek, and Roman periods.

Museums in cities such as Gela, Agrigento, and Siracusa have collections that testify to the diverse and rich cultural history of the region. Colorful local events, like the theater festivals held in Taormina in July and every other year in Siracusa in May-June, and religious ceremonies, especially at Easter and on other church holidays, are all profitable subjects for study and photography.

Entertainment The city has many cinemas; foreign films are shown with Italian s o u n d t r a c k s. A m e r i c a n f i l m s, dubbed in Italian, are often featured and are usually quite recent when released. TV programming in Italy is generally better than or at least comparable to that in the U.S. One can see many vintage American and European films on a regular basis, dubbed into Italian. Palermo has two opera seasons; the principal one begins before Christmas and continues through June. Operas, operettas, and ballets are staged in the summer in an attractive amphitheater. Winter performances are usually excellent, with skillful and elaborate staging. During the winter, good concerts are frequent, as some of Europe’s best instrumental artists include Palermo in their tours. Tickets are often inexpensive. Theatrical companies with some of the best Italian actors occasionally visit the city with a repertoire of national and foreign plays. Musical variety shows are given often throughout the year, though mostly in winter. All these performances are in Italian. Sicily is famous for its puppet shows, which are given in tiny, family-owned theaters. The performances are not polished, but they are interesting entertainment, particularly for children. The city has several nightclubs, but only one or two with floor shows. The others have small bands, where the music ranges from soft and slow 311

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to the latest and loudest beat. Discotheques are also popular.

Social Activities Americans generally confine their entertaining to informal lunches or dinners at home. Unless one makes a sustained effort to become acquainted with Italian families, social life is limited. The foreign colony is small, with few entertainment centers. Palermo club life is limited. Several tennis clubs offer various types of sports activities, including tennis, swimming, and soccer. Initial membership costs are expensive, although monthly dues are not prohibitive.

Genoa Genoa (in Italian, Genova) is the capital of the Italian region of Liguria. The city, at the head of the Ligurian Sea, is about 330 miles by road from Rome. Sunshine and mild weather predominate most of the year although, in winter, cold days made dismal by piercing gusts and chilling drizzle are a reminder that Genoa is a northern city. It is, in fact, located at the same latitude as Augusta, Maine. The usually mild climate is due to the mountains which shield the area in winter from the full effect of northerly winds coming from the Alps. Greater Genoa is dominated by its port. Much of the city’s commercial life is directly involved or related to shipping. Principal industries include a large steel plant owned by Italsider (the largest steel producer in Europe) and major shipbuilding and ship repair yards. Genoa is also the starting point of several oil pipelines which link the Mediterranean with central European countries. The city is an important producer of heavy machinery, electric motors, generators, and allied products. Major industries in the area are mostly government owned. Relatively few are the privately owned, medium-size concerns which played such an important part in the “Ital312

ian economic miracle” of the early 1960s in the other northern industrial centers. Genoa’s population is just over 700,000. The city is built on different levels in, on, and about the hills which dominate the area. Splendid palaces are found in all parts of the city; the best known is the Palazzo Doria, home of the famous 16th-century Italian naval hero, Andrea Doria. The ancient, narrow streets, called vicoli (alleys), still exist in labyrinthine profusion near the central port basin. In other parts of the city, steep, winding footpaths lead to various levels, giving Genoa a distinctive atmosphere and appearance which persists despite all efforts at modernization. To Americans, Genoa is above all t he c ity i n w hi ch Chr ist o phe r Columbus was born and raised. The Genoese themselves are proud of this fact. Genoa maintains a sistercity relationship with Columbus, Ohio, and official visits and gifts are sometimes exchanged. Apart from the Columbus tradition, many ties exist between Genoa and the United States. Genoese shipbuilders secretly sold ships to the American Republic during the Revolutionary War. Genoa was heavily damaged during World War II, and many residents still remember that important segments of local industry were rehabilitated with Marshall Plan aid. Nevertheless, this is not to say that Americans can expect to be eagerly welcomed into Genoa’s social life. The Genoese (in Italian, Genovesi) are, by tradition, conservative, laconic, and inclined to be suspicious of outsiders (even other Italians). This is probably the result of centuries of isolation. Until the advent of the railroad, the Apennines were an almost impenetrable barrier to communications with the hinterland and, except for several hostile incursions from the north, Genoa had little overland contact with the rest of Europe, or even with the rest of Italy. Although

Genoa was among the first great maritime trading centers as well as a leading seapower, the ancient Genoese city-state suffered several devastating invasions from the sea. The Saracens sacked the city several times. Thus, Genoa’s role in maritime matters did not render its populace more cosmopolitan but, instead, tended to strengthen the traditional distrust of aliens, which is still part of the Genoese character. This attitude appears to be changing, however, judging from the way the Genoese joke about themselves. The considerable influx of people from other Italian cities, notably immigrants from the south in search of employment, has also had a moderating effect. Still, one should expect considerably more reserve in personal and social contacts with the Genoese. Italian is, of course, the principal language, but some of the people speak their own language, Genoese, among themselves. Genoese is definitely more of a language than a dialect, and there is an ItalianGenoese dictionary as well as a small body of literature in the vernacular. Genoa’s standard of living is high by almost any measure, but the city has not yet experienced the degree of modernization found in Milan, Turin, and other industrial centers of the prosperous north. Americans will find most of the goods to which they are accustomed available in Genoa, but often at higher prices than in the U.S. Some 70 American families in business or engineering live in the greater Genoa area. In addition, about 3,000 Americans, largely of Italian origin, live in the district. During summer, numerous American tourists pass through the city every week. Most of them do just that—pass through—on their way to or from the French and Italian Rivieras. Thus, the city itself has remained relatively untouched by international tourism, and the

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Cities of the World Genoese, it would seem, prefer it that way.

Education The American International School in Genoa (grades pre-kindergarten through eight) is the only school with classes in English. It has a professional staff of 13, most of whom are American. The student body numbers about 85. A U.S. curriculum is followed, and Italian is a required subject. The school year extends from mid-September to mid-June. American International’s address is Via Quarto 13C, 16148 Genoa. The public school system in the city includes elementary (equivalent to grades one through five), middle (grades six through eight), and secondary schools (classical pre-university high schools, and technical and vocational institutions). Parochial schools are numerous, especially for the elementary grades. A few nonreligious private schools are also in operation, but fluency in the language generally is required. Private tutoring in most subjects, in either English or Italian, is available, and usually is necessary unless the student attends American International. Children planning to attend Italian schools may need language instruction, although young children generally learn the language quickly. Attendance at a local kindergarten is helpful in developing the preschool child’s knowledge of Italian. Instruction is available in voice and in almost every musical instrument, both from private teachers and in special schools. Painting courses are held throughout the year. Dance schools (mainly for children), exercise classes, and lessons in horseback riding, skin diving, and other sports are also available. Adults with a good command of Italian can take courses at the University of Genoa. The French Institute offers advanced study of French language and literature, and is accredited by the University of Grenoble. The Italo-American Association has

an educational program, including instruction in English, as well as a series of lectures and films on American culture and events. The Goethe Institute gives instruction in German language and culture.

Recreation The Genoa area offers opportunities for swimming, hiking, tennis, golf, roller skating, sailing, and rowing. Many beaches are only a short bus trip from the center of town, but they are of rocky surface rather than natural sand, and are polluted. The mo st popular and fa mo us beaches and resorts along the Riviera (Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Portofino) are about 45 minutes from Genoa. Most of these are privately operated concessions and charge a rather stiff entrance fee. The city itself has an excellent outdoor swimming pool in suburban Albaro which is heated in the winter. Numerous other pool facilities exist, although most are private. One 18-hole golf course (in Rapallo) and one nine-hole course (in Arenzano) are within an hour’s drive of Genoa. A few public and private tennis courts are available. Soccer (calcio) is the national sport; Genoa has two teams in the Italian league. During the season, which extends from early fall to late spring, a game is usually played every Sunday in the city’s stadium. Narrow, congested streets and a hilly terrain make bicycling difficult in Genoa. However, enthusiasts can enjoy flat stretches of road along the sea. Hunting in the surrounding area is poor. Many private reserves are beyond the Apennines, but with access by invitation only. Hiking enthusiasts will find pleasant walks near the sea or in the hills. Numerous points of scenic interest along the Italian Riviera are available for sight-seeing by bus or car. The Italian Yacht Club has a clubhouse and yacht basin in the port of Genoa, and sailing is popular throughout Liguria.

Several ski resorts in the nearby mountains, about a two-hour drive from Genoa, are open five months a year. Special excursions at group fares are organized each weekend during the season.

Entertainment Entertainment facilities in Genoa include cinemas and theaters. Films shown in commercial theaters are dubbed in Italian. The Italo-Britannica and Italo-American Associations sponsor a film club which has biweekly showings during the winter months of English-language films with original soundtracks. Film Story, an association interested in the history of the cinema, shows films in English about once a week. Occasionally, local theaters will sponsor a series of recent American and British movies. Genoa’s opera house, Teatro Carlo Felice, was bombed during World War II, but has been newly rebuilt and reopened in late 1991. The facade of the 2,000 seat opera was reconstructed to match its 1826 original. An excellent local theatrical stock company performs throughout the winter season. Visiting companies from other cities present musical reviews, plays, and operettas. The annual concert season runs from October through February. A chamber music series also takes place during the winter months. A short opera season occurs in fall and in spring. Occasionally, a ballet will be performed during the opera seasons, and an outdoor ballet series is held in suburban Nervi every two years. To celebrate the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ first voyage to the New World, the city of Genoa in 1992 held an international exposition called “Christopher Columbus: Ships and the Sea.” As part of this exposition, a new aquarium was built. Two football fields in length, it is Europe’s largest and features sea life from aquatic habitats around the world. 313

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Trieste For many years, until the end of World War I, Trieste was the major port of Italy. It remained important until the end of World War II, when conflicting territorial claims between Italy and Yugoslavia led to the creation of the Free Territory of Trieste, administered by the Allied Military Government composed of American and British forces. In October 1954, the London Memorandum of Understanding was signed by Italy, Yugoslavia, Britain, and the U.S., ending the military occupation of the city. In early 1964, the Province of Trieste was grouped with the provinces of Gorizia, Udine, and later Pordenone, into the fifth special autonomous “region” of Friuli-Venezia Giulia; this region, plus the Veneto provinces of Venezia, Padova, Belluno, Treviso, and Rovigo, constitute what was the U.S. consular district. Trieste’s 258,000 inhabitants are principally Italian, but there is also a 10 percent Slovene minority, and the German and Austrian colonies are fairly large. American tourism to the district is concentrated in Venice and, during winter, to the major ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The climate is pleasant. Summers are seldom hot and humid, and winters are usually without snow. From December to February, the famous Trieste bora (strong wind) often blows. Winds have reached over 100 miles per hour (although rarely) and may blow for three to four days at a time, intensifying the cold. Crisp, sunny days usually follow.

from September to June on a trimester basis, and the enrollment of approximately 200 students includes children of varied nationalities, mainly Italian. Information is available from International School at Villaggio del Fanciullo, Via Conconella 16 (Opicina), 34100 Trieste. Some Americans send their children to the local schools, where instruction is in Italian. Previous tutoring is necessary for entry into all levels and, unless children speak Italian, they often must be enrolled one grade lower than the last completed. The Italian system involves five years of elementary school, three of middle school, and five of high school. The University of Trieste offers a wide variety of college courses, all conducted in Italian. Individual or class lessons are available at the Conservatory of Music. The Art Institute of Trieste has a full curriculum available for students from 11 to 19 years of age, and the Museum of Modern Art offers inexpensive courses in painting and drawing. Also, extensive opportunities exist in Venice (about two hours by car or train) to pursue artistic and cultural studies.

Recreation and Entertainment The most popular spectator sports in Trieste are soccer, trotting races, and basketball. Others include water polo, swim meets, sailing, rowing, horse shows, boxing, hunting, and fishing. Tennis and golf are available for those who wish to join clubs. Riding facilities exist, and extensive areas of the countryside are suitable for hiking. Excellent skiing and mountain climbing are found in the nearby mountains of both Italy and Austria.

Education The International School of Trieste, sponsored by the International Center for Theoretical Physics and part i a l l y s u p p o r t e d b y t h e U. S. Government, was founded in 1964. Instruction is in English on the American system, offering grades one through eight, a kindergarten, and a nursery. The academic year is 314

Venice is about 100 miles away, some two hours by car or express train. Padua, Vicenza, and Verona— 20, 45, and 75 miles, respectively, to the west of Venice—are also of considerable historic and cultural interest, and are connected with Trieste by express trains. Cortina d’Ampezzo, the popular Italian

mountain resort in the Dolomites, about 130 miles by car from Trieste, offers sports (especially skiing) in winter and beautiful scenery at all times. Only 30 miles from Trieste are the ancient Roman ruins of Aquileia, with important early Christian mosaics. The seaside resorts of Grado and Lignano, with long, sandy beaches and swimming and wading areas, are also close by. Slovenia is easily accessible, and its increasingly popular Dalmatian coast is within a weekend drive. Trieste offers a wide range of entertainment for a city of its size. The local opera company’s season runs from November to March. The Trieste Symphony’s concert series, which takes place in fall and spring, is extensive. Recitals, concerts, and miscellaneous musical events also are held. During summer, theatrical presentations are staged in the open-air Roman theater and, in winter, the local repertory theater offers a series of presentations, all in Italian.

Turin Turin (in Italian, Torino) has a long and interesting history dating back to ancient Rome and including a brief period (1861-65) as the first capital of unified Italy. However, it is now known as a modern, thriving, industrial center, particularly in the field of automobile manufacture and design. During the past quartercentury, it has grown at an astonishing rate, and Greater Turin has a current population of more than 1.2 million. The city is the capital of the Region of Piedmont (Piemonte), which includes the provinces of Turin, Asti, Alessandria, Cuneo, Novara, and Vercelli—an area about the size of New Jersey, Delaware, and Rhode Island combined. The semi-autonomous Valle D’Aosta Region, north of Turin on the French and Swiss borders, is not included in the Region of Piedmont. Turin is by far the largest city in the district and is the financial, economic, and cultural

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City square near the Shroud of Turin exhibit

capital. It is a most important industrial city, although this is not made evident by its architecture. Turin is equidistant from Rome and Paris and, partially due to many years of French rule, newcomers are often surprised by the “non-Italian” a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e c i t y. Wi d e, straight, tree-lined boulevards slice through the central areas, and the architecture is often a hybrid of Italian and French design. On clear days, the city’s personality is radically changed by the awesome beauty of the nearby Alps, which surround it on three sides. On the fourth, or eastern, side, lush green hills—studded with churches and luxurious villas—rise from the banks of the Po River to overlook the city. Turin has the highest standard of living in Italy. Unlike many cities, however, there is no focal point for

its entertainment and cultural forces—no “center of town,” and the streets of the city are remarkably free of crowds in the evening. Similarly, the important sights of Turin are not always found in the great piazzas or on main thoroughfares; one must seek them out or be told where to find them. Even getting there is often not enough; a beautiful chapel can be disguised as an office building, or a world-renowned museum can be housed in a structure as nondescript as its neighbors. At first, friendships can be as difficult to find as the art treasures. The Turinese admit to being different from other Italians, and they take pride in it. In general, they tend to be reserved, courteous, and uninquisitive, and their distinct personalities have helped to create the atmosphere of their city. They prefer to amuse themselves privately; for example, Turin has an extremely

Courtesy of Linda Irvin

limited nightlife for so large a city. American-style bars and adult nightclubs are limited in number, and there are few restaurants serving foreign cuisine. Turin is not a tourist center for Americans. When a traveler arrives in Turin it is usually because of business or traveling en route to another city. This, more than anything, probably has contributed to the fact that Turin has retained much of its distinctive character despite its rapid growth. On a more personal level, it also has resulted in a novelty: a large Italian city in which practically no one speaks English. Aside from the charms of the city, however, the tourist misses a great deal when he fails to stop here— pleasures and sights which residents of Turin have come to love. Only a very short distance from the 315

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city, for example, are some of the world’s most famous ski resorts— Sestriere, Cervinia (Matterhorn), and Courmayeur. The Italian lakes are nearby, as are the French and Italian Rivieras. All of the foregoing can be reached in from one-and-ahalf to six hours by car. A glance at the map will be enough to demonstrate that Turin is an excellent starting point for longer trips to much of Europe. On the other hand, there is a great deal to see within the district itself. The countless Roman ruins, castles, medieval towns, and Alpine valleys can keep a traveler busy for months.

Education The American Cultural Association of Turin, an English-language school for nursery through high school, is located in a small hill town about 6.2 miles (10 kilometers) from the city. It has been in operation since 1974. The enrollment currently is 220. Italian is a required subject. The school, which offers languages and the usual academic courses, maintains its facilities at Via Mario Mogna, 10020 Pecetto Torinese, Italy. Both the academic director and the elementary principal are Americans, as are more than half of the faculty members.

Recreation Some of the world’s most spectacular scenery is visible just outside the city of Turin. The Valle d’Aosta begins 40 miles to the north. It runs directly into Mt. Blanc, Europe’s highest peak, after figuratively glancing off Mt. Rosa and Mt. Cervinia (Matterhorn), which are the second and third highest European peaks. All around these famed summits, as well as in the west and the Maritime Alps, valleys are begging to be explored by car. The roads are not always wide or straight, but they are quite adequate. The Monte Cenisio Pass into France is just west of Turin at an elevation of 6,000 feet, and Geneva is a fourhour drive via the Mont Blanc tunnel. Lake Co mo and the other 316

attractions of the famed Italian lake country are available by public transportation or by a two-to-threehour drive, as are most of the other interesting attractions of Italy. Whether by car or public transportation, the visitor will enjoy touring in the Alps, in the picturesque wine country south of Turin, or in the nearby countries. Travel time by car to the nearest point in France is one-and- a-half hours; Austria (except in the dead of winter), five-and- a-half hours; Liechtenstein, seven hours; and Spain, 14 hours. The most popular participant sport in northern Italy is skiing. A dozen ski resorts are within easy reach of Turin, even for day trips. All these areas have lifts, instruction, and boots and skis for rent. If a skier tires of one side of the Alps, in an hour he can reach Chamonix just over the French border, or Zermatt, by cable car, on the Swiss side of the Matterhorn from Cervinia. Hunting is popular. Quail and pheasant are the most common quarry, but some deer, chamois, and even ibex can be found. The Circolo della Stampa Sports Club of Turin has 20 good tennis courts and a huge swimming pool. Other courts and pools are around town. An excellent 27-hole golf course is just outside the city, and there is a nine-hole, free course in town. It is difficult to join either golf club, but arrangements usually can be made for nonmembers to play the courses for a limited time. Public swimming pools, available year round, are inexpensive. Mountain climbing, hiking, fishing (rainbow trout), rowing, skin diving, bowling, and even baseball are all practiced with great enthusiasm in this part of Italy. Soccer (calcio) is by far the most popular spectator sport. Attendance at basketball games grows every year, especially since the major

teams have begun to import American stars.

Entertainment The theater is active in Turin, with performances almost exclusively in Italian. The local repertory company (Teatro Stabile Torino) offers plays of high caliber and professional polish. During winter, at least three productions are always in town at any one time. Movie theaters abound. Most of the better, and some not so good, American films are shown here, usually dubbed in Italian, as are British and continental films. Some movie clubs show a limited selection of films in the original versions. Turin is the home of a symphony orchestra which broadcasts under the auspices of the Italian radio and television system each Friday during the season. A second organization, the Unione Musicale, presents a concert season, normally at least two programs a week. The Turin opera season, while not matching the splendor of neighboring La Scala in Milan, is thoroughly professional and relatively inexpensive for t h e b e s t s e a t s i n t h e h o u s e. Turinese audiences are not inclined to be demonstrative, but they do appreciate good music.

Bologna Bologna lies in the province of Emilia-Romagna, northern Italy, at the foot of the Apennines. Now a transportation center with a population of 417,500, it was first an Etruscan town named Felsina, and its history is rich in Roman, Byzantine, Lombard, French, and church culture. It was a great intellectual and political center in medieval times. Bologna has been part of Italy only since 1860, when annexation from Austria was voted. It had been church-controlled from 1815 to 1831, the year it was occupied by Austria. Bologna’s prestigious university, the oldest in Europe, was founded in 1088 as a school of

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Cities of the World Roman law. Medical and theological faculties were soon introduced, but liberal arts were not added until the 14th century. Today, the enrollment is close to 60,000. Some of Italy’s most beautiful ecclesiastical structures are found in Bologna, most notably the old churches of San Petronio, Santa Maria dei Servi, Santo Stefano, and Santo Domenico. Several of the city’s historic buildings were destroyed during the heavy bombing of World War II, among them the Archiginnasio and the exquisite 13th-century church of San Francisco. Bologna has an excellent museum and art gallery; the city and the university attract serious students of art and architecture. Fine (and hearty) food is also one of Bologna’s main offerings, and a number of restaurants are justly famous for their distinctive Bolognese cuisine. Several major Italian publishing houses have headquarters in Bologna and each year the International Children’s Book Fair is held here.

Venice Venice (in Italian, Venezia), at the northern end of the Adriatic, is a city built on 118 alluvial islets and laced with 400 bridges. Once a dominant city-republic known as the “queen of the seas,” Venice (population 352,500) is a major tourist attraction of Italy and, in fact, of all of Europe. Hundreds of thousands of visitors throng the squares and r i d e t he f a m o u s g o n d o l a s a n d motoscafi (motor taxis) through the 160 canals which are the city’s thoroughfares. Severe flooding in 1966 damaged much of Venice, but the splendid churches and public buildings have been restored and preserved. Art lovers and philanthropists throughout the world contributed millions of dollars toward the renovations. Among the most famous attractions are the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), with its beautiful cathedral begun in the year 830, and consisting of examples of Byz-

San Marco in Venice, Italy

antine, Greek, Gothic, and Oriental architecture; the 16th-century royal palace library; the Palazzo Ducale (Palace of the Doges, or dukes), rebuilt five times since its original structure was erected in 800; and the numerous galleries, palaces (most on the Grand Canal), and public gardens. Venice flies the emblem of the Winged Lion of St. Mark. Throughout the year, Venice celebrates its illustrious past. In addition to its regular opera season, from December to March, there is a seemingly endless series of musical events, art exhibits, theater, religious festivals, and municipal celebrations. There is a wide variety in Venice of hotel accommodations and dining facilities, from the simplest to the most luxurious. Shopping is excellent (although expensive) here, particularly for the world-famous Venetian glass and lace. Close to Venice are several cities of the Veneto (administrative region) which are steeped in history and art. Among these are Padua, whose renowned 13th-century university is the second oldest in Italy, after Bologna’s; Verona, celebrated as the city of Romeo and Juliet; and Vice-

Courtesy of MaryBeth Heikkinen

nza, the birthplace of Andrea Palladio, Renaissance architect of note. Most visitors to Venice eventually find their way to these fascinating ancient towns.

OTHER CITIES BARI is the major commercial center of the Province of Apulia in southeast Italy. Situated on the Adriatic Sea, about 140 miles east of Naples, this city of 387,800 has boat-building, machinery, oil-refining, tobacco, wine, and printing enterprises. Bari’s complete name is Bari della Puglie. It once was part of the kingdom of Naples. BERGAMO is the capital of Bergamo Province, situated at the base of the Alps, 30 miles northeast of Milan. Divided into Upper and Lower Bergamo, this is a main industrial and cultural hub. Upper Bergamo is the original, fortified section, dating to the second century B.C., when it was the Roman town of Bergomum. It has been r u l e d b y R o m a n s, Ve n e t i a n s, French, and Austrians. Landmarks here include the Romanesque cathedral, the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, and the Bapistry, all in the Piazza Vecchia district. Lower 317

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Cities of the World fered serious earthquakes and volcanic eruptions in the 17th century. T h e c i t y was a m aj o r G e r m a n defense location in World War II, until successful attacks by the British in the summer of 1943.

A canal in Venice, Italy

Bergamo has been the city’s center since the 19th century. The Academia Carrara here is noted for its outstanding art collection, one of Italy’s best. Bergamo has preserved the birthplace of the composer Gaetano Donizetti (1797–1848) as a museum. The city has engineering works, textile mills, and cement factories. Its population is an estimated 122,000. BRESCIA lies at the bottom of the Trompia Valley, 50 miles east of Milan. This area has several reminders of the Roman era, most notably the Capitoline Temple, built by Emperor Vespasian (8 B.C.–A.D. 79) in A.D. 73. The temple is adjacent to the Roman Museum, where one of the world’s most celebrated sculptures, “Winged Victory,” can be seen. Brescia is the seat of a bishopric and site of numerous churches, one dating to the eighth century. The Madonna del Carmine Church is considered a worthwhile tourist stop. Stairs behind the building lead to walls of a Venetian castle and, from this point, one can see across to the Alps. Brescia is also a railroad junction and manufacturing hub. It has a population of approximately 204,000. The mostly German-speaking city of BRESSANONE is situated in the far north, 20 miles northeast of Bol318

Courtesy of Molly Flint

zano on the Isarco River. With a population of 16,000, this is a tourist area known for its cathedral and Archbishop’s Palace. There are 12 churches here, including several m o n a s t e r i e s. B r e s s a n o n e , a s Brixen, belonged to Austria from 1803 to 1918. CAGLIARI is the capital and main port of Sardinia, the largest of Italy’s Mediterranean islands. Located on the Gulf of Cagliari in the south, it was founded by Phoenicians, but rose to prominence under the Romans, who made it Sardinia’s major city. Remains in Cagliari’s lower town attest to the Roman presence: a huge amphitheater, a house, and a great cemetery. The upper town has medieval remnants such as the cathedral, parts of the Pisan fortifications, and the University of Cagliari. An archaeology museum contains a renowned collection of Sardinian antiquities. Mineral exports, agricultural production, and salt mining constitute the local economy. The city has an estimated population of 225,000. CATANIA, at the foot of Mount Etna in eastern Sicily, was founded by the Greeks in about 729 B.C. Its history reflects the many cultures which dominated it throughout the ensuing centuries—Greek, Roman, Saracen, and Norman. Catania suf-

MESSINA is a seaport in northeastern Sicily, dating to 730 B.C., when it was founded by the Chalcis Greeks. Now a trade and transportation center with a population of 273,000, Messina existed under the rule of many European conquerors, and has been part of Italy only since 1860. Its population was severely diminished during the plague in 1743, and the city was nearly demolished by earthquakes later in that century and again in 1908. Messina suffered heavy damage in World War II. MODENA, with a population of 179,000, is said to be Italy’s wealthiest city. It is located in the northcentral region, 115 miles southeast of Milan and 200 miles northwest of Rome. Automobile manufacture is the mainstay of the economy; metalworking, iron foundries, and tanning are also important. An extensive urban renewal project here includes a massive, Englishdesigned park. The Palazzo dei Musei art museum has one of the country’s largest galleries, as well as rare illuminated manuscripts. Modena became a Roman colony in 183 B.C., and joined the Italian kingdom in 1860. A university was founded here in 1175. PADUA (in Italian, Padova) a rail terminal and commercial city of 241,000, is situated in northeastern Italy. It was here in Italy’s second oldest university (founded in 1222) that the great astronomer and physicist Galileo and the anatomist Fallopius taught, and here also that Dante and Petrarch (Petrarca, the poet and humanist) were among the famous students. Padua’s botanical gardens, praised throughout the world, are the oldest in Europe, dating from 1545. PARMA lies on the Parma River in the north, 75 miles northeast of Genoa. It has been a transportation

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Cities of the World center since the second century B.C., when it was built by the Romans. This is also an agricultural area known the world over for its Parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham; fertilizers and alcohol are also produced. Noted conductor Arturo Toscanini (1867-1957) and printer Giambattista Bodoni (17401813) were among Parma’s famous r e s i d e n t s. To u r i s t h i g h l i g h t s include a 12th-century cathedral, with a masterpiece fresco of the Assumption; the Glauco-Lombardi Museum, housing a collection of p e r s o n a l i t e m s o f N a p o l e o n ’s Empress Marie-Louise; and the Palazzo della Pilotta, the home of the Farnese dukes. The city suffered extensive damage in World War II, but painstaking restoration efforts preserved much of its beauty. Its current population is approximately 180,000. SIENA is a city of considerable interest. It is located in Tuscany, about 40 miles south of Florence and, with its 13th-century churches and palaces, retains much of its medieval appearance. It became independent in the 13th century, and rose to great cultural heights, but its artistic light was diminished by the plague (Black Death) which swept Europe in 1348. Siena’s university, built in 1240, remains a seat of learning, and it is said that this city of 70,000 residents is the only place in Italy where pure Italian, with no regional dialect, is spoken. The major attractions of Siena are its Gothic-Romanesque cathedral, its 13th-century Palazzo Publico, and its Academia delle Belle Arti. The city is also famous for the Corsa del Palio (Race of the Banner), an annual medieval horse race which highlights the summer season. Around the central square of Siena (Piazza del Campo) are great palaces which bear the names of the city’s noble families. SYRACUSE (in Italian, Siracusa), situated on the southeastern coast of Sicily, was the leading city of ancient Europe. Founded by the Corinthians in 734 B.C., it grew to dominate the Mediterranean under

the Greeks. After falling to the Romans in 211 B.C., the region was invaded by Franks in the third century A.D., and later by Arabs, Normans, Swabians, and Spanish. A 1693 earthquake devastated Syracuse, prompting rebuilding in a c u r i o u s ba r o q u e a r ch i t e c t u r e. Today this is a provincial capital of 119,000 residents. Local agricultural produce is processed in the city, and light industry plays a dominant role in the economy. Tourism is centered on Syracuse’s Greek ruins, especially the fifthcentury temple and a beautifully preserved theater. Performances are still held here, in even-numbered years. There is a regional archaeological museum in Villa Landolina Park.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Italy covers 116,300 square miles (301,225 sq. km.), an area roughly the size of Georgia and Florida combined. Its prominent geographical feature is the 500-mile-long Italian Peninsula, which is shaped like a boot and extends southeast from Europe into the Mediterranean Sea. The Apennine Mountains form the backbone of the peninsula. North of the Apennine range lies the Po River Valley (300 miles from east to west), Italy’s breadbasket and the center of Italian industry. North of the Po Valley are the foothills of the Alps, in which lie Italy’s lake district. Its northern border meanders along the highest points of the southern Alpine passes. The Italian islands of Sicily and Sardinia, which lie southwest and west of the Italian peninsula, respectively, are the largest islands in the Mediterranean. These, along with Italy’s other, smaller islands, have hosted trading colonies since the dawn of recorded history and

have traditionally provided a window on the rest of the Mediterranean Basin (the western tip of Sicily, for example, is only 90 miles from Tunisia). Italy’s climate is generally pleasant. Although summer temperatures can rise into the mid-90’s with high humidity, evenings are considerably cooler, allowing people to take to the streets and squares. In the winter, nighttime temperatures often drop to freezing, but snowfall outside the mountains is rare. In all seasons, the south tends to be warmer and drier than the north.

Population Italy has a population of roughly 57.6 million on a land mass about three-quarters the size of California. Population density is about twice that of California. Historically, many Italians have emigrated (significant numbers of Italian communities are in the U.S., Canada, Belgium, Argentina, Brazil, Venezuela, and Australia), and approximately 2 million Italians still work in other countries. Recently, however, Italy has been experiencing a growing influx of immigrants, a cause of controversy despite the fact that there would be essentially no population growth in Italy were it not for the arriving immigrants. Outside of Rome and the main tourist centers, few Italians speak a second language. Even in the big cities, truly bilingual persons are hard to find. The most commonly spoken foreign languages are English and French. With the exception of the Germanspeaking autonomous province of Bolzano (Bozen) and the significant Slovene population around Trieste, ethnic minorities are small. Isolated, ancient communities of Albanians, Greeks, Ladinos, and Frenchspeakers, however, are here. The Italian constitution provides religious freedom for all. Roman Catholicism is the predominant religion, although only a small minority regularly attends church. There are 319

Italy small Protestant (Waldensian), Jewish, and Greek Orthodox communities. The Vatican or “Holy See” is an independent sovereign nation located in Rome, whose head of state is the Pope.

Public Institutions Italy has been a Republic since June 2, 1946, when a national referendum abolished the monarchy. The constitution, which took effect on January 1, 1948, established a bicameral Parliament (Senate and Chamber of Deputies), a separate judiciary, and an executive branch composed of the Council of Ministers (Cabinet) and President of the Council (Prime Minister), who is Head of Government. The Council of Ministers must retain the confidence of both houses. The President of the Republic, who is Head of State, is elected for seven years by Parliament sitting jointly with delegates from the 20 regions. The President has limited powers. He or she appoints the Prime Minister, subject to Parliamentary concurrence. The President can also dissolve Parliament and call for elections, if it is clear that no governing majority can be formed. Seventy-five percent of parliamentarians are elected as individual candidates, 25% by proportional ballot. There are 630 deputies and 315 senators, plus a small number of senators-for-life including all former Presidents of the Republic and a few appointed by the President in recognition of service to the nation. Parliament is elected for five years but may be dissolved by the President before the expiration of its full term. Legislative bills may be introduced in either house but must be voted by a majority in both. Below the national level, Italy is divided into 20 regions (roughly equivalent to US. states), 103 provinces and over 8,000 communes (cities and townships). Regions and provinces have presidents and governing councils. Mayors and city councils are elected locally. each 320

Cities of the World province has a prefect appointed by and representing the central government. he prefect has special responsibility for law and order issues. Since 1953, no single political party has held an absolute majority in either house. Successive Italian governments have been formed by coalitions or other parties providing “external” support. Until recently, governments centered around the now-defunct Christian Democratic Party (DC) and until the early 1960s, were generally “center” coalitions (the DC plus Liberals, Social Democrats and Republicans). From 1962-94, most governments were “center-left” (the DC plus varying combinations of Socialists, Social Democrats, Liberals and Republicans). The Italian Communist Party (PCI) was excluded from government coalitions although, after the late 1970s, the PCI often provided “external” support to center-left government coalitions. The centerright governed briefly in 1994. The “clean hands” trials of the early 1990s, which investigated illegal funding of political parties, completely changed the static landscape of Italian politics, and opened a period of transition and transformation which continues even at the beginning of the new century. By 1994, the large and powerful DC and Socialist parties had collapsed and out of their ranks, a number of new parties were formed. In 1991, the PCI broke with its communist tradition and eventually joined with former socialists, left-wing Christian Democrats and others to form the Democrats of the Left (DS). Center right “Forza Italia” was founded by entrepreneur Silvio Berlusconi in 1 9 9 4. I n 1 9 98 , t h e c e n t e r- l e f t formed the first government headed by a former Communist (DS) Prime Minister, Massimo D'Alema. Since the 1994 elections, a roughly “bipolar” arrangement has emerged in Parliament with the majority of seats controlled by either the center-right “POLO” coalition or the center-left coalition. New parties have subsequently been formed

within the coalitions and a few parties (see below) remain unaligned. The following are major parties with representation in the national Parliament (as of January 2000). Center-left Coalition Democratici (Democrats) Democratici di Sinistra (Democrats of the Left) Partito dei Communisti Italiani (Italian Communists) Partito Popolare Italiano (Italian People's Party) Unione Democratica per L’Europa (Democratic Union for Europe) Verdi (Greens) Center-Right “POLO” Coalition Allianza Nazionale (National Alliance) Centro Cristiano Democratico (Christian Democratic Center) Forza Italia Unaligned Parties Lega Nord (Northern League) Rifondazione Communista (Communist Renewal) Radicali (Radical Party)

Arts, Science, and Education Italy is the wellspring of Western civilization and has been a world crossroads for over 2,000 years. Continuous learning, creativity, and technological advancement on the Italian peninsula have shaped virtually every aspect of Western culture. Etruscan and Samnite cultures flourished in Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire, which conquered and incorporated them. Phoenicians and Greeks established settlements in Italy beginning several centuries before the birth of Christ, and the Greek settlements in particular developed into thriving classical civilizations. The Greek ruins in southern Italy are perhaps the most spectacular and best preserved anywhere. With Emperor Constantine's conversion to Christianity in 312, Rome became the open and official seat of the Catholic Church, and Italy has had a profound effect on

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Cities of the World the development of Christianity and of Western concepts of faith and morality ever since. Italy became a seat of great formal learning in 1088 with the establishment of the University of Bologna, the first university in Europe. Other Italian universities soon followed. These great centers of learning presaged the Renaissance, as did innovative works by Italy's great lateG o t h i c a r t i s t s. T h e E u r o p e a n Renaissance began in Italy and was fueled throughout Europe by Italian painting, sculpture, architecture, science, literature, and music. Italy continued its leading cultural role through the Baroque and Classical periods and into the Romantic period, when its dominance in painting and sculpture diminished and it reestablished a strong presence in music. Italian artists have been quite influential in the twentieth century. They were the primary exponents of Modernism in the 1920s and 1930s, and continue to have a strong presence in the international contemporary art market. Today, Italy has one of the world's strongest and most vibrant popular cultures, and plays a large role in shaping worldwide trends in fashion, film, cuisine, industrial and interior design, advertising, and popular music. Following World War II, Italian neo-realism became an important force in motion pictures, and by the 1960s, Italy had established itself as one of a handful of great film cultures. Italian design shaped the look of the post-war world, and today Italy is arguably the international leader in fashion and design. Italy's great presence in literature and the arts often overshadows its role in the development of science and technology. Italy has been a home for innovation in science and engineering in the centuries since Galileo formulated his theories of planetary movement and Leonardo da Vinci designed a primitive helicopter based upon his studies of nature. At the turn of the century, Marconi carried out experiments in electricity and developed the wire-

less, but he was preceded by Count Alessandro Volta, one of the pioneers of electricity, over 100 years earlier. By the end of the Second World War, Enrico Fermi's work in nuclear physics led to the development of both the atomic bomb and peaceful atomic applications. Today Italy is a strong competitor in hightechnology sectors, including aerospace and communications. Italian education is still held in high regard for its rigor and thoroughness, and although the Italian curriculum and teaching method remains very traditional, Italy also produced Maria Montessori and her revolutionary educational theories.

Commerce and Industry Italy has a diverse, industrial economy, the sixth largest in the world. It is one of the world's largest producers and exporters of textiles, clothing, gold jewelry, footwear and machinery to produce all those goods, as well as some agricultural products. Numerous Italian companies are famous worldwide, but it is small and medium-sized firms that dominate the economy and are responsible for its dynamism. Germany, France and the U.S. are the most important export markets. As in other industrialized countries, the role of the service sector is growing. Italy is very dependent on imported petroleum and natural gas from Liby a, Iran, Algeria an d Russia. Industrial activity is concentrated in the north in a swath that runs from Torino in the west to the Veneto region near Venice in the east. This is one of the most industrialized and prosperous areas in Europe, and accounts for some 50 percent of national income. By contrast the center and particularly the south, or Mezzogiorno, are less developed. Unemployment in the Mezzogiorno is three times that of the north, and per capita incomes are much lower. Italy has a large underground economy. Researchers attribute that to high taxes and rigid labor laws, and estimate it

accounts for one-quarter of gross domestic product. Italy is a founding member of the European Union (formed through the Treaty of Rome) and, in 1998, of Europe's Economic and Monetary Union (EMU). Members of the EMU have ceded monetary authority to a European central bank and begun using the euro for accounting purposes. Euro bills and coins go into circulation in 2002. Polls indicate that Italians are among the strongest supporters in Europe of EMU and continued European integration. To qualify for the Monetary Union, successive Italian governments in 1992-97 implemented widely-praised fiscal discipline measures that produced sharply reduced government deficits and debt levels, lower interest rates and lower inflation. Challenges that Italy still faces are liberalizing labor laws and regulations that govern b u s i n e s s e s, i m p r o v i n g i n f r a structure, reducing bureaucracy and addressing a looming pension burden.

Transportation Automobiles Due to traffic jams, narrow streets, and pedestrian-only sections in some shopping areas, public transportation is preferable in city centers. Private cars are preferable for traveling outside the city, however. New vehicles are sold with city license plates, and it will take between 60 to 120 days before the vehicle becomes available. Car dealers ask for a maximum 10 percent deposit when the contract is signed. Secondhand vehicles are available through local car dealers, but there is no IVA exemption on such vehicles. The cost for the transfer of titles ranges from $450-$600, based on the size of the engine of the vehicle. Italy is a member of the Europena Community; its road code, in compliance with EC policies, requires catalytic converters. 321

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If you want to nationalize your vehicle with city plates, you must produce: 1) a manufacturer's certificate stating that the catalytic converter on the vehicle meets EC standards; 2) a technical data information sheet. These documents must be endorsed and legalized with the Seal of the Secretary of the State (Apostille) from where the vehicle is purchased. These documents must be translated into Italian and notarized by an authorized translator in Italy. The title and the registration card must also have the Apostille Seal and be translated into Italian. The Italian Government requires the purchase of local liability insurance. Premiums for third-party liab i l i t y a r e s e t b y l aw a n d a r e, therefore, equal for all companies. Duty free-entry requests are not processed until the liability policy is in effect. Vehicle at driven into Italy must have an international “green card” certificate of insurance. Collision and theft insurance is available locally (but is expensive) or can be obtained from American insurers such as Clements in Washington, D. C. , A m e r i c a n I n t e r n a t i o n a l Underwriters, or USAA. Current regulations allow foreigners to drive in Italy if they have a valid driver's license. If the license is not Italian, the original license with translation must be carried at all times. Traffic moves on the right side of the road. The highways are generally well maintained but are often narrow and winding, the exception being the superhighways, called “autostrade.”

Local Transportation within the cities, whether by bus, tram, or subway (in Rome and Milan) is good, although crowded at rush hours. Always be alert to the danger of pickpockets and purse-snatchers on public transportation. Taxis are usually available but expensive. They do not cruise looking for fares but wait at 322

taxi stands throughout the cities or can be called by phone.

and are generally compatible with equipment brought from the U.S.

Communications

Italy has three state-controlled radio networks that broadcast day and evening hours on both AM and FM, in addition to RAI International on shortwave and virtual radio via internet. Program content varies from popular music to lectures, panel discussions, classical music, and opera, as well as frequent newscasts and feature reports. In addition, many private radio stations mix popular and classical music. A short-wave radio, though unnecessary, aids in reception of VOA, BBC, Vatican Radio in English and the Armed Forces Network in Germany and in other European stations.

Telephone and Telegraph Telephone connections within Italy and to international points are of excellent quality and reliable. For local calls, there is a usage charge of approximately two cents per minute. A long distance call to the U.S. can be direct dialed from any city at a rate of approximately $.50 per minute. You can also subscribe to callback services in the U.S. or utilize calling cards such as AT&T and MCI. Residential lines or service for a newly leased residence can be obtained within two weeks of placing an order. Cellular phone service is reliable with a usage fee of approximately $1 per minute and a monthly basic service charge of $30. Bringing a cellular phone from the U.S. to Italy is risky in that converting and registering it is not always possible. A basic unit runs approximately $100 depending on the service agreement. Personal telegrams can be sent for about $4.

Mail International mail service between Italy and the U.S. is unreliable. Surface mail takes 6-8 weeks. Packages sent via international mail are subject to customs inspection.

Internet Service Internet access in Italy is widely available. A number of internet service providers (ISP) provide free internet access via dial up phone lines. The telephone charges during connection to the ISP from within Rome are approximately one cent per minute, depending upon the time of day. Personal computers with U.S. specifications may be used successfully, although transformers may be required. Computer accessories and peripherals are available in Italy

Radio and TV

The three public TV networks controlled by Radio-Televisione Italiana plus many other private stations offer varied programs, i n c l u d i n g n e w s, o p e r a s, g a m e shows, sitcoms, cartoons, plays, documentaries, musicals, and filmsall in Italian. RAI also has a new 24hour news and information system that is available on cable and at night on RAI-3. All programs are in color, except for the old black-andwhite movies. Most Italians still depend on VHF/UHF reception, but both cable systems and direct satellite reception is increasingly common. Conventional satellite dishes can pick up European broadcasts, including some in English. Telemontecarlo and other private networks retransmit CNN and other American network programs late at night or in the early AM. CNN is widely available in four and five star hotels. Programs are chiefly news, sports, network comedies and movies. Radios, TVs, VCRs (both using the PAL/SECAM standard) and DVDs are available locally, but at much higher prices than in the U.S.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals The International Herald Tribune is published six days a week in Italy and is available with an English-

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Cities of the World language supplement, “Italy Daily” (edited jointly with RCS Corriere della Sera) throughout most of the country. The European edition of The Wall Street Journal is published in Bologna, and along with USA Today, is available in major cities. European editions of Time and Newsweek are available one or two days after publication. Other foreign newspapers and magazines are also available on newsstands, and current U.S. magazines can be found there as well. The Center for American Studies in Rome subscribes to a variety of American magazines and professional journals and has over 70,000 volumes on subjects related to the U.S. Rome has several English-language bookstores with a varied but high-priced stock. A more limited selection in English is found in bookstores in other cities.

Preventive Measures Environmental allergy symptoms are common during the spring and summer months due to dust and pollen levels. Viral and bacterial respiratory ailments are common during the winter months. Smog levels can be high in any of the major cities, but particularly in Milan. Throughout the country, when certain smog levels are exceeded, alternate day driving is instituted. No special immunizations are necessary other than those generally recommended.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan 1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Feb/Mar. . . . . . . . . Carnival*

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Quality medical facilities, including English-speaking physicians, specialists in most fields, and hospitals and clinics, are available in most cities. Public hospitals are usually understaffed, and frequently the staff does not speak English. Private hospitals are similar to those in the U.S. and are equally expensive. The staff in private hospitals may or may not speak English. Equivalents to most American medicines are available in local pharmacies. Bring an adequate supply of medications, however, in case what is needed is not available.

Community Health Sanitary controls throughout Italy are good. The water is safe but not fluoridated. Use only bottled water. Good pasteurized milk is available. Uncooked shellfish and uncooked pork are not safe. Precautions, such as washing fresh fruit and vegetables and avoiding raw seafood, are the same as those advisable in the U.S.

Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Apr. 25 . . . . . . . . . Anniversary of the Liberation May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day June 2 . . . . . . . . . . Republic Day June 24 . . . . . . . . . St. John's Day (Florence) June 29 . . . . . . . . . St. Peter and St. Paul's Day Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Sept. 19. . . . . . . . . St. Gennaros Day (Naples) Nov 4. (Sun closest to this day) . . . . . . . . WWI Victory Day

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties A passport is required. A visa is not required for tourist stays up to three months. For further information concerning entry requirements for Italy, travelers may contact the Embassy of Italy at 3000 Whitehaven Street NW, Washington, D.C. 20008. Tel: 202-612-4400 or via the Internet: http://www.italyemb.org, or the Italian Consulates General in Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Newark, New Orleans, New York, Philadelphia, or San Francisco. Those tourists planning to stay other than in hotels for more than one month should register with the local police station within eight days of arrival in Italy. Visitors to Italy may be required to demonstrate to the police upon arrival sufficient financial means to support themselves while in Italy. Credit cards, ATM cards, traveler's checks, prepaid hotel/vacation vouchers, etc. can be used to show sufficient means. Americans living in or visiting Italy are encouraged to register at the C o n s u l a r S e c t i o n o f t h e U. S. Embassy in Rome or at one of the three U.S. consulates general and obtain updated information on travel and security within Italy.

Dec. 6 . . . . . . . . . . St. Nicholas Day

The U.S. Embassy in Rome, Italy is located at Via V. Veneto 119/A. Tel: 39-06-46741 and fax: 39-06-46742217. Internet address: http:// www.usis.it.

Dec. 7 . . . . . . . . . . St. Ambrogio's Day (Milan)

The U.S. Consulates are located in:

Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints' Day

Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Immaculate Conception Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . St. Stephen's Day *variable In addition, each city observes the local patron saint's day.

Florence, at Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci 38. Tel: 39-055-239-8276/7/8/ 9, or 39-055-217-605; fax: 39-055284-088. Milan, at Via Principe Amedeo 2/10. Tel: 39-02-290-351 and fax: 39-02290-35-273. 323

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Naples, at Piazza della Repubblica. Tel: 39-081-583-8111 and fax: 39081-761-1804.

though not generally enforced, are invoked in case of trouble.

There are U.S. Consular Agents located in:

Up to a total of three pistols may be imported per year so long as the weapon is of the type, make and caliber registered in the “Catalogo Nazionale.”

Genoa, at Via Dante 2. Tel: 39-010584-492 and fax: 39-010-553-3033. Palermo, at Via Vaccarini 1. Tel: 39091-305-857 and fax 39-091-6256026. Trieste, at Via Roma 15. Tel: 39040-660-177 and fax 39-040-631240.

Pets Both dogs and cats must be accompanied by a health certificate containing the following: • Identification of the animal • Name and address of the owner • Statement that the animal has been examined on the date of issuance of the certificate and found sound. • Statement that the animal has been vaccinated for rabies at least 20 days, but no more than I 1 months, before the date of issuance. The certificate expires 30 days after the date of issuance and must be signed by an official or officially accredited veterinary doctor of the country of origin. Importation of dogs is subject to payment of an import tax, which is 19% of the dog's value, as determined by customs authorities, and normally runs between $30-$60. If the owner of the animal is in the U.S., a statement is required from the Department of Agriculture certifying that the veterinarian who examined the animal was authorized to do business in the U.S. Current regulations provide that dogs and cats are subject to examination by an Italian veterinarian at the border, airport, or other port of entry into Italy. Pets may be sent unaccompanied by air but not by ship. All dogs on the streets must be muzzled and leashed. No exceptions are g r a n t e d , a n d t h e r e g u l a t i o n s, 324

Firearms and Ammunition

The same applies for shotguns. Three shotguns may be imported per year, so long as they are smooth bore. A shot gun with a rifled bore must be registered in the “Catalogo Nazionale” as mentioned above. Upon importation, the weapon would have to be sent to Gardone Valtrompia, Brescia, to the Banco Nazionale di Prova for balistic typing and marking.

Currency, Banking and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the Austrian monetary unit is the Euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 euros. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The exchange rate approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US. Currency exchange facilities, which accept all convertible currencies and travelers checks, are available at the international airports and railroad stations, as well as at banks. They generally give better exchange rates than hotels. Weights: 1 kilo equals 2.2 pounds (kilogram), 1 ounce equals 28.25 grams, 1 gram equals .04 ounces, 1 pound equals .45 kilograms. A common unit of measure (weight) used when buying cold cuts, cheese, pasta, fruits and vegetables is the “etto” which equals 100 grams or about 4 ounces. If you ask for “due etti” of boiled ham, you would get about 8 ounces (half a pound.) Liquid Measures: 1 quart equals .95 liter (almost a whole liter), 1 liter equals 1 quart, 2 ounces or 4 cups, 10 liters equal 2.64 gallons.

Distance: 1 inch equals 2.54 centimeters, 1 mile equals 1.61 kilometers, 1 meter equals 39 inches, 1 kilometer equals .62 miles. To convert kilometers to miles, divide the number of kilometers by 8 and multiply the result by 5 or multiply the number of kilometers by .6. Temperature: Temperatures are expressed in degrees Centigrade or Celsius.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country. Barzini, Luigi. The Italians: a Full Length Portrait Featuring Their Manners and Morals. Simon & Schuster: New York, 1996 (c 1964). Bassani, Giorgio. The Garden of the Finzi-Continis: A Novel. William Weaver, translator. Fine Communications, 1997. Burke, Greg. Parma: A Year in Serie A. Trafalgar Square, 1998. Burnett, Stanton H. The Italian Guillotine: Operation Clean Hands and the Overthrow of Italy's First Republic. Stanton H. Burnett and Luca Mantovani. Lanham, MD, Rowman and Littlefield in conjunction with the Center for Strategic and International Studies, 1998. Calvino, Italo. Italian Folktales. George Martin, translator. Harcourt Brace, 1992. Calvino, Italo. If On a Winter's Night a Traveler. William Weaver, translator. Harcourt Brace, 1982. Claridge, Amanda. Rome: An Oxford Archaeological Guide. Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1998. Di Lampedusa, Giuseppe. The Leopard. Archibald Colquhoun, trans-

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Cities of the World lator. Pantheon Books: New York, 1988. Frei, Matt Italy: The Unfinished Revolution. London, Mandarin, 1996. Goethe, Johann Wolfgang. Italian Journey, 1786-1788. Translated by W.H. Auden and Elizabeth Mayer. Penguin Books: London, 1962. Guicciardini, Francesco. The History of Italy. Sidney Alexander, translator. Princeton University Press, 1984. Hay, Denys. The Italian Renaissance in Its Historical Background. 2nd ed. Cambridge University Press, 1977. Hearder, Harry. Italy: A Short History. Cambridge University Press, 1991. Hofmann, Paul. The Seasons of Rome: A Journal. Henry Holt and Co.; New York, 1997. Hutchinson, Robert J. When in Rome: A Journal of Life in Vatican City. Doubleday: New York, 1998. Lamb, Richard. War in Italy, 19431945: A Brutal Story. DaCapo Press, 1996.

Levi, Carlo. Christ Stopped at Eboli: The Story of the Year. Frances Frenaye, translator. Noonday Press, 1995. Levi, Primo. If Not Now, When? William Weaver, translator. Penguin, 1995. Levi, Primo. If This is a Man; and, The Truce. Stuart Woolf, translator. Penguin: New York, 1979. Lintner, Valerio. A Traveller's History of Italy. 5th ed. Interlink Pub. Group, 1998. Masson, Georgina and Tim Jepson. The Companion Guide to Rome. University of Rochester Press: Rochester, 1998. Mayes, Frances. Bella Tuscany: The Sweet Life in Italy. Broadway Books: New York, 1999. Mayes, Frances. Under the Tuscan Sun: At Home in Italy. Broadway Books: New York, 1996. McCarthy, Mary. The Stones of Florence. Harcourt Brace: New York, 1989. McCarthy, Mary. Venice Observed. Harcourt Brace: New York, 1963. McCarthy, Patrick. The Crisis of the Italian State: From the Origins of the Cold War to the Fall of Berlus-

coni and Beyond. New York: St. Martin's Press, c1997. Parks, Tim. Italian Neighbors or, A Lapsed Anglo-Saxon in Verona. Fawcett Books: New York, 1993. Parks, Tim. An Italian Education: The Further Adventures of an E x p a t r i a t e i n Ve r o n a . Av o n Books: New York, 1995. Pirandello, Luigi. Six Characters in Search of an Author. Eric Bentley, translator, Signet Classic, 1998. Richards, Charles. The New Italians. Penguin Books: London, 1995. Sciascia, Leonardo. Open Doors and Three Novellas. Sacha Ravinovitch and Marie Evans, translators. Vintage Books, 1993. Silone, Ignazio. Bread and Wine. New American Library, 1988. Smith, Denis Mack. Modern Italy: A Political History. University of Michigan Press, 1998. Stile, Alexander. Benevolence and Betrayal: Five Italian Jewish Families Under Fascism. Penguin, 1993. Stile, Alexander. Excellent Cadavers: The Mafia and the Death of the First Republic. Vintage Books, 1996.

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Amman, Jordan

JORDAN The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

Major Cities: Amman Other Cities: Irbid, Jerash, Maán, Zarqa

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated February 1995. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

in this land of contrasts. Here, the mountains rise in places to 5,700 feet and, at the Dead Sea, the earth falls nearly 1,300 feet below sea level. The mystery of the nomadic desert life and the splendor of ancient cities meet in Jordan. The nation is blessed with few natural resources, yet has compensated for this need with an increasingly educated population which has gone forth to fill professional and managerial needs throughout the Middle East.

INTRODUCTION

MAJOR CITY

EDITOR’S NOTE

From as long ago as the Bronze Age, JORDAN has been a crossroads of the world. It is a mosaic of cultures, the spiritual capital of three great religions—Christianity, Islam, and Judaism—and today, a miracle of modern urbanization, with over half of the country’s population clustered around the cities of Amman, Zarqa, and Irbid. Jo r d a n e v o k e s i m a g e s o f t h e Bedouin, of Lawrence of Arabia, of spectacular deserts, and of warriors on camels. It has been home to a multitude of peoples and remains t h e r e p o s i t o r y o f t h e i r r e l i c s. Canaanite cities, Roman and Byzantine palaces, Muslim shrines, and Crusader castles are all to be found

Amman Amman, the capital of Jordan with a population of 1.3 million, is spread out over many steep hills. With an elevation ranging from about 2,450 to 2,950 feet above sea level, the city has a growing population of over one million. Here, in biblical times, was Rabbath Ammon, capital of the Ammonites, who were the descendants of Lot. The pharaoh, Ptolemy II, Philadelphus of Egypt (285-247 B.C.), ruled the city; he rebuilt it and renamed it Philadelphia. Beginning in 63 B.C., the city fell under Roman rule. Before that time, it had flourished as a member of the

league of free cities known as the Decapolis. Briefly revived in the eighth century under the Ummayyad Arabs, the entire country deteriorated in the ninth century when the Arab capital moved from Damascus to Baghdad. During the Middle Ages, Amman was no more than a tiny village. It became the capital of Transjordan in 1921 and, today, is a major city, with new construction everywhere and constantly increasing traffic and noise. Most city activity centers around the government. Amman is Jordan’s principal trading center, the main clearing point for commercial goods, and the hub of manufacturing activity. The city grew rapidly after the Arab-Israeli wars of 1948 and 1967; following each war, large numbers of Palestinian Arab refugees and displaced persons from the West Bank became residents. Amman’s climate is moderate. Summer temperatures on the residential jebels (hills) range from 80°F to 95°F, but rarely exceed 100°F; the atmosphere is dry and even the summer evenings are usually cool. Many days are windy, and dust clouds occasionally blow in from the dry hillsides and nearby desert. Little rain falls from mid-April to midNovember. In winter, temperatures seldom go below 32°F, but the cold is penetrating, the wind frequently 327

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Cityscape of Amman, Jordan

strong, and houses are difficult to heat. Rain falls often in January and February. Snow falls occasionally and even a moderately light snow can temporarily disrupt traffic and communications.

Education Several schools in Amman are suitable for English-speaking students, 328

© Charles & Josette Lenars/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

including two nursery schools and a day-care center. The American Community School was established in 1957 to provide a U.S. curriculum for American children in the city. It is primarily supported by tuition payments, but also receives assistance from the U.S. Department of State. Although

most of the students are American, there are also children of other nationalities. The school year runs from late August until early June, and regular classes are augmented by instruction in music, sports, dancing, and other extracurricular activities. A choice of French, Spanish, or Arabic is offered, starting in fifth grade.

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Cities of the World American Community School has an excellent curriculum, with high standards of instruction and achievement. Information is available from the U.S. Embassy in Amman. The Amman Baccalaureate School was established in 1981 and offers a U.K., Jordanian, and International Baccalaureate type of curriculum, although there are some Americans enrolled in the school, and on staff. Private schools in Amman offer English instruction in certain subjects in grades 10 and 11 only. Their school year extends from September through May. The College de La Salle, a Catholic school for boys, offers European history, physics, English literature and grammar, and mathematics. The Bishop School for Boys, which has been in operation since 1936, has courses in English grammar, literature, and history, plus physics, chemistry, and biology. At the Ahliyya School for Girls, instruction is available in chemistry, physics, English literature and grammar, European history, art, and biology. Several nursery schools (with day care) are available to Americans. Enrollment is international, and instruction is by English-speaking teachers. Openings are limited and waiting lists are long. The University of Jordan is an accredited institution offering English-language instruction in the following fields: English literature, science, medicine, and a new course in classical Arabic taught especially for nonnative speakers of that language. The university also offers courses outside the degree-granting program; several foreign students are enrolled in these courses. Archaeology is one of Jordan’s most interesting activities. The presence in Amman of the American Center for Oriental Research gives focus to archaeological pursuits, and a group called the

Friends of Archaeology sponsors field trips and lectures. A number of courses are taught at the YWCA in Amman, including music and Arabic. Dance is taught at the American Community School as an extracurricular activity.

Recreation Jordan has a good network of main and secondary roads and a sufficient number of gasoline stations. For long car trips, tourists should fill gas tanks and take along plenty of boiled drinking water or bottled mineral water. Travel to areas not on or near the main highways is difficult, but not impossible; main roads have been improved considerably in the past few years. Good places to visit include: • Ajlun, with the forest and medieval ruins of the fort of Qal’at alRabad, a military fortress built in the 12th century as a defense against Crusader armies. • Aqaba, Jordan’s only seaport, which has good swimming, scuba diving, and water-skiing. Hotel accommodations are available. • Kerak (Al-Karak), a Moabite town having one of the finest Crusader castles in the Middle East. The town, called Le Crac des Moabites (by the Crusaders), was taken by Saladin late in the 12th century and by the Turks two centuries later. The restorations have made it an accessible and popular tourist spot. Kerak has about 10,000 residents today, including a number of Christian families whose origins lie in Crusader times. • Madaba, where a sixth-century mosaic map of Palestine can be found in the Greek Orthodox Church. Other Mosaics are also open for viewing. • Mount Nebo, from where, overlooking the Dead Sea, Moses is said to have viewed the Promised Land. Mosaic finds here are excellent. • Petra, a unique city carved by the Nabateans (of the ancient land

of Arabia) out of sheer red sandstone cliffs. Visitors ride on horseback through the Siq, the Silent City’s mysterious approach, for about 45 minutes. Roman ruins are also located here. • Qasr el-Amra, where a castle at Azraq (Qasr el-Azraq) near this site was used by Umayyad caliphs, and has early frescoes recently restored. • Damascus, a colorful city with a rich history, a three- to four-hour drive from Amman, including stops at the Jordanian-Syrian border. It has a wonderful, inexpensive bazaar and an excellent museum. In late summer of each year, an international fair is held. Hotels are adequate, but rooms are in short supply during this period. There are many opportunities for active sports in Jordan. Scuba diving, snorkeling, and deep-sea fishing facilities are available at the port city Aqaba, and there is freshwater fishing at Wadi Ziglab and Azraq. No hunting is allowed at the present time. Three sports clubs—Al Hussein Youth City (or Sports City), the Orthodox Club, and the Royal Automobile Club—are open to foreign membership. Single male membership, however, is not permitted in these organizations. Several hotels have swimming pools and health clubs. The Royal Racing Clubs sponsors horse and (occasionally) camel races in spring and summer.

Entertainment A semiprofessional theatrical group present productions in English and Arabic. Workshops for children and adults are conducted throughout the year. Amman also has an amateur theater group which performs regularly. Concerts are usually presented by one of the foreign cultural associations such as the Royal Cultural Center, the British Council, the American Center, the Goethe Institute, or the Haya Arts Center. They also offer classes for adults and children in dancing, aerobics, 329

Jordan art, language, and handicrafts. Many of these centers operate lending libraries. Local cinemas feature films in English (Hollywood productions) and Arabic. There are four modern movie theaters. The Jerash Festival of Cultural and Arts takes place for two weeks each summer in the ruins of the ancient Greco-Roman city north of Amman. The festival offers international, regional, and local performances of drama, music, and dance as well as art displays, handicraft exhibitions, and children’s activities. The festival is open to the public from afternoon until midnight. The restaurants most frequented by foreigners serve either continental, Chinese, or Middle Eastern food. There are also American-style fastfood places. Music for dancing, discos, and even floor shows, are available at the Intercontinental, Holiday Inn, Marriott, Regency Palace, Amra, and San Rock hotels, as well as at a few nightclubs. The various sports clubs maintain restaurants for members and their guests. The U.S. community participates in Rotary and Lions Clubs, both of which have active chapters in Amman. There also is a broad program of scouting for boys and girls.

OTHER CITIES IRBID is a bustling industrial and agricultural hub in the extreme north, 53 miles northwest of Amman. This governorate capital of 260,000 residents lies near the Yarmùk River, which supplies irrigation for the fertile local fields and feeds numerous springs. Yarmùk University, founded here in 1976, is a multi-faceted, bilingual institution. English and Arabic are used in schools that range from arts and sciences to veterinary medicine. Irbid was the home for Bronze Age settlers, and is thought to have been a part of a Hellenistic league around the first century A.D. 330

Cities of the World JERASH is located north of Amman, less than an hours drive through the hills of ancient Gilead. The old provincial city has preserved some of the finest sites of its ancient Greco-Roman heritage. It is believed that the area has been inhabited since Neolithic times. Between the 1st century BC and the 3rd century AD, the city was part of Emperor Pompey's Decapolis, a tencity commercial league of the Middle East. Today, the city of about 144,000 is the second largest tourist site in the country. One of the most famous sights is the Triumphal Arch. The Arch once marked the grand entrance to the city. Now, however, the city entrance is through the South Gate, which leads directly to the Oval Plaza beneath the Temple of Zeus. Behind the Temple is the famous Hippodrome, or South Theatre, built in the 2nd century, that seats about 3000 people. This theatre hosts the annual Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts that usually takes place in July. At the festival, visitors will enjoy a variety of cultural entertainment that includes music, plays, and dances. From the theater, a 660 meter long, column-lined street leads to the magnificent Temple of Artemis. Walking tours take visitors through a variety of markets, temples, fountains, baths, gateways and other structures with beautifully preserved art and architecture. Tour programs are generally offered in one of four languages: French, English, German and Arabic. Just north of Jerash, through pine forests and olive groves, you can visit the medieval town of Ajlun, which offers stunning examples of Arab and Islamic architecture. Qala'at Ar-Rabad, or Ajlun Castle, was built here in the 12th century by the nephew of Saladin, Usama Ibn Munqich. It served as a military fort and buffer to protect the region from invading Crusader forces. There are not many places to stay in Jerash. Many visit the city on a day

trip from Amman or Ajlun, which also has a few good hotels. MAÁN is the capital of Maán Governorate, situated 60 miles south of the Dead Sea. The city of 31,000 serves as a departure point for excursions to the ancient ruins of Petra, 19 miles to the northwest. Maán lies on a major highway and is the southern terminus of a narrow-gauge railroad. Territorial status of the region was disputed from after World War I until 1965, when Saudi Arabia accepted placement of the Maán area within Jordan. Bedouin tribes inhabit this diffusely settled mountainous area. ZARQA (also spelled Az-Zarká’) is an industrial city of 491,000, located 12 miles northeast of Amman. This was once the home of the handsome, proud Circassian people, and the former headquarters of the Arab League. Zarqa should not be confused with Zarqa Ma’in, a mineral springs center southeast of Amman.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is located in the heart of the Middle East and the Arab World. It is bounded on the north by Syria, on the east by Saudi Arabia and Iraq, on the south by Saudi Arabia and the Gulf of Aqaba, and on the west by Israel. It covers an area of approximately 35,000 square miles. Its size approximates that of the State of Indiana. Most of Jordan’s borders do not follow well-defined or natural features of the terrain. Rather, they were established by various international agreements, and, with the exception of the border with Israel, there are no major disputes. The precise delineation of the Jordanian-Israeli border is a key aspect of ongoing bilateral negotiations. In the 1967 war, the West Bank of the Jordan

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Street corner in Amman

River, which Jordan had annexed in 1949, came under Israeli occupation. In 1988, King Hussein relinq u i s h e d Jo r d a n ’s c l a i m t o administrative control of the West Bank. The country’s terrain varies. On the eastern desert plateau, average elevation is 3,000 feet; in the west, mountains rise to 5,700 feet; and at the Dead Sea, terrain drops to the Earth’s lowest land point of some 1,300 feet below sea level. Although historically an earthquake-prone region, no severe shocks have been recorded for several centuries. Jordan’s countryside offers a diversity of climate and scenery. Within easy driving distance of the capital city of Amman, one can visit Irbid’s temperate highlands, Ajlun’s majestic hills, the fertile Jordan Valley, the southern sandstone mountains, and the arid desert of the eastern plateau.

Inadequate rainfall is a chronic problem. Rainfall usually occurs only from November to April; the rest of the year has bright sunshine daily and low humidity. In the spring, a desert wind brings higher temperatures; daytime summer temperatures can be hot, but nights are usually pleasant, cool, and dry. Autumn is long and pleasant; winter often brings light snow to the mountains and to Amman; and spring carpets the country’s grazing lands with beautiful wildflowers.

Population Jordan has been home to many successive civilizations. Each group introduced new elements into the country’s religion, language, and architecture—influences that are still seen today. Except for the Crusader period, Jordan has remained under Arab rule from the 7th century to the beginning of the 16th century by which time the Turkish

Ottoman Empire had expanded to include many Arab Middle Eastern countries. Predominately Arab and Moslem, the population of Jordan today is 5.2 million. The 1948 influx of Palestinian Arab refugees, the 1967 postwar waves of displaced persons from across the Jordan River, and the 1991 “returnees” from the Gulf States have resulted in a population nearly evenly divided between “East Bankers” and Palestinians. Several of the first wave of Palestinian refugees and displaced persons were given Jordanian citizenship, and, today, hold prominent government, commercial, and professional positions. The well over 200,000 refugees who still live in camps run by the United Nations Relief and Works Agency (UNRWA) are not as assimilated into the Jordanian economy. In the aftermath of the Gulf War, an estimated 250,000 or more Palestinians and Jordanians 331

Jordan returned to the country, increasing the country’s population by 8 percent. The population represents a mixture of traditions. To be a Bedouin, or to come from Bedouin stock, is a matter of pride for many Jordanians. They are known as people of strong character, with a deep sense of family and tribal pride. Harsh desert conditions have spawned a well-developed code of hospitality that is still expressed toward one another and toward foreigners. In the wake of the Russian conquest of the Caucasus, a non-Arab Sunni Moslem minority, the Circassians, settled in Jordan. Despite their relatively small numbers, they have long been important in government, business, and similar pursuits. Today, Circassian families are prominent in land owning, commerce, the military, and industry. Numbering roughly 6 percent, Christians form the largest nonMoslem category of Jordan’s population. The principal points of concentration of the East Bank’s indigenous Christians are the towns of al-Karak, Madaba, al-Salt, and Ajlun. Most of Jordan’s Christian population are Eastern Orthodox, with large numbers of Roman Catholics as well. The kingdom’s several P r o t e s t a n t c o m m u n i t i e s h av e resulted generally from American and European missionary activities. There are also small communities of non-Christian minority groups, w h i c h i n c l u d e t h e D r u z e, t h e Samaritans, and the Bahais. Jordan’s population continues to grow steadily at a rate of more than 3 percent. The population is also becoming more and more urbanized, with more than 50 percent of the people living in the three main cities of Amman, Zarqa, and Irbid. In general, Jordanians are courteous, friendly, and dignified in their relations with Westerners. Many speak excellent English and are well educated, often having studied in the U.S. or at American institu332

Cities of the World tions, such as the American University of Beirut. Although sometimes critical of U.S. Middle East policy, Jordanians, on a personal level, like Americans and treat them in a friendly and respectful manner.

Public Institutions According to the 1952 Constitution, Jordan is a hereditary monarchy, in which the King forms and dismisses governments, may dissolve Parliament, and is the ultimate arbiter of domestic and foreign policy. The current King is Abdulla bin alHuseein II. The King sets the broad parameters of foreign and domestic policy, while the Prime Minister and Council of Ministers manage daily affairs. In recent years, the Parliament, consisting of an appointed 40-member Senate and a popularly elected 80member Lower House has been seeking to assert greater influence over policy. The ending of martial law in 1992 contributed to the creation of a climate in which Jordanians feel relatively free to express their political views. Government organization is centralized, with authority and resources almost entirely in the hands of the national government. National government ministries regulate, supervise, and provide public services. Local autonomy and self-government are not highly developed, although many municipalities and villages have elected councils. Municipalities are organized into 12 Governorates, headed by a “Muhafiz” or Governor appointed by the King and Cabinet. In some cases, the Governorates are divided i n t o s u b d i s t r i c t s, o v e r s e e n b y appointed district officers who have the power to supervise and regulate affairs and who report to the National Ministry for Municipal, Rural, and Environmental Affairs. The General Intelligence and Public Security Directorates have broad responsibility for internal security and wide powers to monitor seg-

ments of the population that may pose a threat to the security of the regime. Since April 1989, when riots in the southern city of Ma’an led the government to speed up plans to hold parliamentary elections, Jordan has taken important steps toward political reform and greater respect for human rights. Jordan held free and open elections for the Lower House in 1989 and 1993. Government-ordered changes to the election law, following Parliament’s dissolution in August 1993, angered fundamentalist Islamists and extreme leftists, who blamed the change for their losses at the polls in November. Jordan is a member of the Arab League, the Organization of Islamic Conference, and the U.N.

Arts, Science, and Education In 1921 when the Emirate of Transjordan was created, educational facilities consisted of 25 religious schools that provided a narrow, tradition-oriented education. Today, the Ministry of Education estimates that nearly one person out of three in the kingdom is a student in one of the thousands of schools offering varied curriculums. Because so many Jordanians place great value on educational opportunities for their children as a means of self-improvement and a way to develop a responsible citizenry, much of the Arab World looks to Jordan as a source of educated skilled workers and a provider of educational services. Public education is free and compulsory through grade 10. Secondary education through grade 12 is provided by both academic and vocational high schools for those primary school graduates with the highest scholastic achievement. Students follow a standardized curriculum that heavily emphasizes rote memorization. All students must take the “Tawjihi” examina-

Jordan

Cities of the World tion at the end of their 12th year in school. The score on this exam is the major determinant of each student’s educational future in Jordan. At the post-secondary level, Jordan has students enrolled in many community colleges. Students who attend community colleges are those whose Tawjihi scores are not high enough to permit them to enter one of five universities. The country’s first university, the University of Jordan, has a beautiful campus in the suburbs of Amman, with an expanding curriculum, including agriculture, arts, science, medicine, dentistry, law, physical education, education, administrative sciences, nursing, and “sharia” (Islamic Law). Jordan’s second largest university, Yarmouk, is located in the northern city of Irbid. Yarmouk’s curriculum focuses on liberal arts. The Jordan University of Science and Technology, a relatively new institution, has programs in medicine, engineering, and technology. Mu’tah University was founded in 1981 as a military college, and a civilian wing was added in 1986. In the past 5 years, it has grown into the third largest university in the country. It is located in the southern city of Kerak and draws most of its pupils from the region south of Amman. The largest department is English Language and Literature. A fifth public university, al-Elbait, opened in September 1994. Located in the northern city of Mafraq, alElbait University presents a general curriculum in an atmosphere of “progressive Islamic values.” In comparison with other developing countries, Jordan has a high proportion of university graduates. Since only a small number of those students who are seeking higher education can be accommodated in one of Jordan’s four public universities or in other state-operated institutions of higher education, many study abroad, especially in the U.S.

A new phenomenon began in 1990, with the creation of Amman National University, a private university system. These institutions will absorb many of the students who are now qualified for higher education but unable to gain public university seats or afford education in the West.

land is arable. Rock phosphate, potash, and fertilizer are traditional exports and major sources of hard currency. Despite substantial development of the private sector since the mid-1970s, Jordan depends heavily on the outside world for energy, manufactured and consumer goods, and food.

Unfortunately, students today are finding that their employment opportunities have worsened. The previously abundant job market in the Gulf has virtually disappeared, and the domestic economy cannot absorb all the graduates that are currently being produced. Many foreign workers from the Gulf have returned to Jordan, exacerbating an already bad economic situation.

Fueled by high levels of remittances by Jordanians working in the Gulf and financial aid from Arab States during the oil boom, Jordan’s economy grew by an average of 10 percent a year between 1974 and 1982, with large increases in real investment and per capita income. This inflow of income allowed Jordan to develop its infrastructure, indust r i e s, a n d a g r i c u l t u r e, a n d t o expand government services. When the flow of money began to disappear in the mid-1980s, Jordan continued its expansion programs and, by 1988, had accumulated a foreign debt of more than $8.3 billion. As foreign exchange dwindled, the overvalued Jordanian dinar fell under pressure and was devalued in October 1988, realizing a 45 percent depreciation. When the government took steps to cut subsidies and increase revenues through commodity price increases, rioting broke out in the economically depressed south.

Jordan has a fledgling but growing commitment to the arts, which are considered an important part of social development. The Ministry of Culture and National Heritage heads a varied program of art exhibitions and other activities, while private efforts are continually expanding. The Queen Noor Foundation actively promotes the arts, as well as other social concerns. With the assistance of the U.S. Information Service (USIS), the Queen Noor Foundation has established the National Music Conservatory of Jordan, which now provides instruction for students of piano and wind and string instruments. Another Queen Noor Foundation project, the Jerash Festival of Arts and Culture, has become an internationally recognized event that draws numerous performing groups to Jordan during July each year. The Jordan National Gallery boasts the finest collection of contemporary Arab art in the world. The Royal Cultural Center offers exhibits, stage presentations, and special-film programs and concerts by artists from the U.S. and other countries.

Commerce and Industry Jordan is a small country with limited natural resources. Water is scarce; only about 10 percent of the

In part due to the riots, Jordan concluded a standby arrangement with the International Monetary Fund (IMF) in 1989, which included austerity measures and e con omic reforms. Other debt-rescheduling agreements were concluded or were being negotiated when Iraq invaded Kuwait. The Gulf Crisis cost Jordan several billion dollars from the loss of remittances, the suspension of aid from Arab countries, costs associated with the influx of refugees from Iraq and Kuwait, reduced shipping revenues from Aqaba Port, the decline of tourism, and the closing of export markets in Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Additionally, more than 250,000 Palestinians and Jordanians returned to Jordan from the Gulf, increasing the country’s population by about 8 percent and straining government services and 333

Jordan infrastructure. Jordan received some $1.32 billion in emergency financial assistance from Western countries, primarily Germany and Japan. These funds, however, were not enough to rebuild the economy, only to offset the crisis. The influx of returnees from the Gulf brought benefits to Jordan as well. The savings they transferred into the kingdom helped fuel a 2year real estate and building boom that lasted until mid-1993. Aggregate consumption demand increased, and store shelves were once again filled with consumer goods. Per capita income rose in 1992 for the first time since the devaluation of the dinar. Economic growth slowed, however, in late 1993. Many economic problems remain from the 1980s, including high unemployment. The large balance-of-trade deficit declined somewhat in 1994. The post-Gulf War environment brought great changes to Jordan’s economy. Industries, such as pharmaceuticals and garments grew rapidly and exploited new export markets. Amman showed signs of developing into a regional service center for health care and education as new hospitals and schools were established. The returnees from the Gulf brought skills that were in short supply in Jordan in fields such as computer software development and marketing. The government has taken steps to ease its high debt burden and reform its economy. It successfully completed a 2-year standby arrangement with the IMF in 1994 and entered into a 3-year extended fund facility, which requires the government to implement an agenda of sectorial reform. The gover nmen t has sign ed two debtrescheduling agreements, covering most of Jordan’s bilateral creditors that will restructure most of the kingdom’s foreign debt. Foreign aid will still be required, in the near future, for Jordan to meet its obligations and implement development projects. 334

Cities of the World In 2000, Jordan became a member of the World Trade Organization, and it 2001 it became the fourth nation to establish a Free Trade Agreement with the U.S. Both are likely to positivity influence the economy, which has been growing slightly over 1% each year. Jordan has entered into a period of unprecedented economic challenge and opportunity. The structural reform program is putting more pressure on the private sector to serve as the engine for economic growth. With its well-developed infrastructure and highly trained workforce, Jordan’s economy would benefit from a reduction of Middle East tensions. Until there is calm, however, the country will not likely reach its economic potential.

Transportation

through most of the major hotels in the city. Due to traffic hazards and road conditions, the Mission advises against making out-of-town trips after dark or in inclement weather.

Regional Royal Jordanian Airlines (RJ) is the national carrier. With a fleet of modern planes, it maintains scheduled flights to New York, Montreal, New Delhi, Cairo, the Gulf, Athens, Rome, Paris, London, Bangkok, Singapore, and other major cities. Other Arab airlines, as well as British Airways, Air France, KLM, Alitalia, and Aeroflot operate to and from Amman. No American airline flies to Jordan now, but connections with TWA, American Airlines, United, or Delta can be made via London, Cairo, Frankfurt, Rome, Amsterdam, Paris, and other cities.

Local Taxis (painted yellow) are available, but can be difficult to obtain in some residential areas, especially during off-hours, Fridays, and holidays. Most are now metered, and costs for trips within Amman are reasonable. Local buses and “service” or group taxis (painted white) are also available. However, because both of these operate on fixed routes and tend to be quite crowded, most Embassy employees use the individual metered taxis for travel within Amman. Generally, the taxis are in good condition, and the drivers speak sufficient English to understand simple directions. However, t h e r e h av e b e e n s o m e r e p o r t s (lately) that, due to the large influx of people following the Gulf War, there are many drivers with no knowledge of the English language. Employees would be well served to learn simple Arabic phrases, such as: “Stop,” “Turn left or right,” etc. It is customary for men to ride in the front and women and small children in the rear. For travel outside the city limits of Amman and to places outside of Jordan, such as Damascus (popular for shopping), many Embassy employees hire a “service.” This can be done

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Dependability of connection and service is good. Long-distance service (direct dial) via satellite linkup to the U.S. and to most European cities is excellent. Calls made from the U.S. to Jordan cost less than calls made from Jordan to the U.S. FAX machines are common in Jordan.

Radio and TV Radio Jordan broadcasts in English on AM and FM mediumwave, as well as shortwave for about 17 hours a day. Popular, classical, and Western music are featured, as well as talk shows and newscasts. FM reception of classical music programs from Jerusalem is possible for much of the day. Voice of America (VOA) and BBC broadcasts in English are available on mediumwave during part of the day; at other times, shortwave reception is best. Jordan has a government-owned TV station. Limited English-language programming is available through-

Jordan

Cities of the World out the day. European-system TV sets (PAL) are required.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals An English-language newspaper, the Jordan Times, is published in Amman daily (except Fridays). The International Herald Tribune, USA Today, and the main British dailies are for sale locally 1 or 2 days late. Time and Newsweek, as well as British and other European magazines, are on sale locally at high prices. Paperbacks are available locally at more than double U.S. prices. The selection of hardcover books is limited. The USIS American Center has a library where books can be borrowed, at no charge, with a membership card. The British Council maintains a library as does the American Women of Amman, both open to the public for a modest fee.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Physicians are available for medical and surgical care, including obstetrics and pediatrics. Generally, they are either British or American trained. The al-Khalidi Hospital, a private modern hospital located near Amman’s Third Circle, has an emergency room staffed 24 hours daily. It handles most emergencies and after-hours medical problems, illnesses, or accidents. There is a modern, medical laboratory near alKhalidi Hospital. The King Hussein Medical Center, also located in Amman, is another good facility. Under its auspices is the Queen Alia Heart Institute, which can be used for cardiac cases; the Farah Rehabilitation Center has a modern burn unit. Dental care is good, and most orthodontic treatments are available. As with all local medical care in Jordan, the costs are lower than in the U.S.

Community Health Endemic communicable diseases, including infectious hepatitis, typhoid, meningitis, TB, and schistosomiasis are found among the local population. They can be controlled by observing normal practical precautions, such as filtering and boiling drinking water, careful washing and soaking of fruits and vegetables, watching what you eat in restaurants, not swimming in fresh water, and regular immunizations, such as gamma globulin, typhoid, and meningitis. However, even these efforts will not eliminate completely the occasional case of intestinal disorders, such as amoebic dysentery and giardia lamblia. Few outbreaks of cholera have occurred in Jordan in recent years. The country has also seen occasional outbreaks of polio and meningococcal meningitis. When such outbreaks occur, the Ministry of Health moves fast to contain the outbreaks and to keep the public informed. Malaria is not a problem in Jordan. Dry, dusty weather, however, complicates lung, sinus, and other respiratory problems and may make wearing contact lenses uncomfortable. Many people suffer from allergies, especially in the spring. Medical supplies are good, generally of Jordanian, American, British, French, German, or Swiss origin. Except for U.S. brands, medicines are often less expensive than in the U. S. I f s p e c i f i c m e d i c i n e s a r e required, bring enough supplies until they can be secured locally. Contact lens wearers should bring eye-drops and cleaning solutions, because these can be difficult and expensive to obtain here.

Preventive Measures Strict sanitation in the home regarding food and water is the best defense against disease. Filter and boil drinking water for 10 minutes. Local, good-quality pasteurized milk is normally available (the Jordan and Danish Dairies are recommended). Do not eat uncooked vegetables or salads without taking

proper cleaning precautions and avoid locally made pastries and desserts sold by street vendors. Children and adults should be immunized against tetanus, typhoid fever, polio, meningitis, and hepatitis B before arriving in Jordan. In addition, children should be immunized against whooping cough and diphtheria. Gamma globulin shots are recommended for protection against hepatitis for all adults and children over 12. Cholera boosters are optional. Adults should have oral polio boosters updated. Rabies can be a problem, so Mission personnel should be vaccinated against the disease before arriving at post and avoid contact with stray animals after arrival in country. (Also, vaccinate your pet.)

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan. 15 . . . . . . . . . .Arbor Day May 25 . . . . . . . . . .Jordanian Independence Day June 9 . . . . . . . . . .King Abdullah’s Accession to the Throne June 10 . . . . . . . . .Great Arab Revolt & Army Day Nov. 14 . . . . . . . . . .King Hussein's Birthday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ramandan* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Id al-Fitr* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Id al-Adha* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Mawlid al Nabi* *Variable, based on the Islamic calendar

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS TWA and other U.S. carriers provide flights to several European and Middle Eastern cities for connections to Amman. Many international carriers fly into Jordan. Passports and visas are necessary for entry. Short-term visas (one to 335

Jordan two weeks) are available at no charge on arrival in Amman. Pers o n s w h o s e p a s s p o r t s c on t a i n Israeli visas or entry stamps are admitted only under special circumstances, and with great difficulty. No vaccinations are required by Jordan. It should be noted, though, that there is some malaria risk in rural areas of the Jordan River Valley and the Kerak lowlands. At present, pets are not quarantined in Jordan. To enter the country, all dogs and cats must have current health certificates and have been vaccinated against rabies not less than 30 days, nor more than 12 months, before entry. It is recommended that pets be isolated from Muslim guests. Roman Catholic, Anglican, and nondenominational Protestant services are available in Amman in English, as are Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, and Protestant services in Arabic. The nondenominational Amman International Church has a fulltime pastor. There are two American Jesuit priests attached to the

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Cities of the World Pontifical Mission for Palestine who celebrate masses in English at the College of St. John Baptist de La Salle.

Amman; telephone: 962 (6) 644-371; FAX: 962 (6) 659-720.

Firearm importation is difficult to arrange. Current information can be sought at the time of visa application.

RECOMMENDED READING

The time in Jordan is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus two. Local currency is the Jordanian dinar (JD), divided into 1,000 fils. Jordan employs the standard metric system of weights and measures.

SPECIAL NOTE Many Muslims object to having their pictures taken. Discretion should be used in photographing women, or scenes that could be interpreted as showing poverty. Military installations (bridges included) cannot be photographed. The U.S. Embassy in Jordan is l o c a t e d o n Je b e l A m m a n , i n

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Finlay, Hugh. Jordan and Syria: A Travel Survival Kit. Oakland, CA: Lonely Plant, 1987. Fodor’s Jordan and the Holy Land. New York: McKay, latest edition. Garfinkle, Adam. Israel and Jordan in the Shadow of War. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991. Hadidi, Adnan, ed. Studies in the History and Archaeology of Jordan. New York: Routledge, 1988. Lunt, James. Hussein of Jordan: From Survivor to Statesman. New York: Morrow, 1989. Wilson, Rodney, ed. Politics and the Economy in Jordan. New York: Routledge, 1991.

LATVIA Republic of Latvia

Major City: Riga Other Cities: Daugavpils, Jelgava, Liepája, Ventspils

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of m i n o r c i t i e s, f a c t s h a v e b e e n updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The Republic of LATVIA is one of the former Soviet republics. Latvia’s declaration of independence from the former Soviet Union on September 6, 1991, marked the re-establishment of Latvian independence after over 51 years of Soviet domination. On November 18, 1918, Latvia became an independent republic. The Latvians remained an independent people until July 21, 1940, when Latvia was annexed and absorbed into the Soviet Union by Soviet leader Josef Stalin. The annexation of Latvia and the neighboring countries of Estonia and Lithuania was never recognized as legitimate by the United States or many other Western countries. The collapse of the hard-line Communist

coup in Moscow in late August 1991, paved the way for Latvia’s re-emergence as a free, democratic nation. Like the other former Soviet republics, Latvia is undergoing the painful transition from a Communist state-run economy to a free-market economy. Latvia retains close trade and economic ties with Estonia, Lithuania, Russia, Belarus, and Ukraine. The country also seeks foreign investment and trade links with the United States and other Western nations.

MAJOR CITY Riga Riga is the capital of Latvia and is located on the Daugava River, just nine miles before it reaches the Baltic Sea. It has a population of 790,608 (1998 estimate). Founded by Teutonic crusaders in 1201 A.D., by the end of the 13th century it had joined the Hanseatic League and become a major center of commerce in Northern Europe. The Old Town of Riga is its cultural heart and it has retained much of its medieval atmosphere. The oldworld architecture ranges from Romanesque and Gothic to Renais-

sance and baroque and is now undergoing careful renovation. This 80-acre area is comprised of tiny, winding, cobbled streets; churches with tall, medieval spires; richly decorated portals and tile roofs; old guild halls, a 13th century wall, a 14th century castle and an abundance of tiny coffee houses, good restaurants, museums, art galleries and handicraft shops. Outer Riga, aside from a few Sovietstyle buildings in the center (and many dreary bloc-housing developments beyond) is graced with ornate l9th century Jugenstil buildings; extensive wooded park lands and boulevards lined with Dutch lime trees planted in the 19th century. Its harbor, airport and rail and highway network s all contribute to making Riga a major trade and commercial center for all of the Baltic countries.

Utilities All living quarters for staff in Riga have running water, flush toilets, a tub/shower arrangement, electricity, and telephone. Water pressure is often low, and the water is frequently too full of sediment to make tub bathing agreeable. In many parts of Riga, hot water is not always readily available. 337

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© Staffan Widstrand/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Aerial view of Riga, Latvia

Electricity is 220v, 50-cycle, AC. Consider purchasing one or two small transformers in the U.S. before departure for things like answering machines. It may be necessary to adapt your stereos and CD players to 50 cycles. Use 220v irons and other small appliances. These can be purchased locally or ordered from Stockmann's in Helsinki or the export companies in Denmark. Most appliance plugs now have 6 mm prongs (Western European style.) However, older outlets in Latvia (pre-1991) take only 4 mm prongs (Russian.) Electric adapters and multiple wall plugs (but not transformers) are available.

Europe's largest markets, and the selection, even in winter, is always good. The northern staples of beets, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, celery root, and pumpkin are always available, along with basic herbs, such as parsley and dill. In winter, fresh produce fr om We stern Europe includes cauliflower, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, and cucumbers. As the weather warms, an abundance of local garden vegetables begins to appear, starting with sorrel, radishes, and peas. In summer, fruits and berries appear at the markets. Leaf lettuce and broccoli are usually available at the larger outdoor markets but not in shops. Spinach, celery, iceberg lettuce, and sweet corn are rarely available. A few imported vegetables, such as the sweet potato, have not yet appeared in Latvia.

Food A Riga landmark is its central market, which is housed along the Daugava River in five zeppelin hangars that were used by the Germans during World War I. It is one of 338

Imported fruits are available year round, including apples, oranges, coconuts, and bananas. Pineapples, kiwis, mangoes, lemons, pears, and avocados are usually available at

very high prices even by U.S. standards. For locally produced foods, prices are about the same as in the U.S. The quality of fresh meat varies. All varieties are available year round in the outdoor markets. These include beef, veal, pork, lamb, and chicken (including frozen chicken from Holland and other Western countries). Locally raised rabbit, duck, turkey, and goose are usually on sale at the central market. (Better quality frozen poultry is occasionally available but expensive.) There is no refrigeration at the markets for meats, so shoppers should be wary in warm months. There is a separate zeppelin hangar for fish. The variety is good. Canned fish products and caviar can be purchased there as well. Cold cuts, smoked sausages, fish, and chicken are a popular quick meal for Latvians; these are easily found in shops all over Riga.

Latvia

Cities of the World Milk is pasteurized but unrefrigerated. Most foreigners buy long-life shelf milk that comes in several varieties, including 5%, 2%, and 3.2%. Dairy products such as sour cream, fresh cream, cultured sour milk, butter, and cottage cheese are of good quality. Plain yogurt is unavailable, but flavored yogurt is very popular. Be aware of handlers' hygiene when buying in bulk at the markets, especially with dairy products like sour cream and cottage cheese. Local cheese is soft and spoils quickly, but there is good variety. More imported cheeses are beginning to appear. Swiss, roquefort, and cheddar can be found in a few shops but are quite expensive. Excellent dark rye, sweet-sour caraway rye, and a coarse white bread, along with a range of pastry items, can be found at the many bread shops, bakeries, and markets. Now hot dog buns and sesame hamburger buns are also available. Bring baking products such as extracts, brown sugar, cake mixes, marshmallows, corn meal, graham crackers, baking chocolate/chips, and pecans, as these items are either unavailable or difficult to find. Bring low-fat, low-salt, or sugar-free foods if you prefer them; they are not yet on the market in Riga. Baby foods and pet foods should also be shipped if you have favorite brands. There is a Ship Chandler's warehouse/ shop in the port area of Riga that also sells duty-free goods. Its drawback is that you can never be certain what will be available at any given time. Some months the shop has no stock except cigarettes. Their bestselling items are liquor and wine. Month by month, more joint venture food and wine shops are springing up in Riga (primarily with goods from Western Europe), with a surprising number of new products. For example, Indonesian prepared sauces are often available (but rarely any Mexican food). Americans who travel regularly to Vilnius

or Tallinn often buy food there, as there is a wider (and cheaper) selection of imported foods in these cities. Local prices for liquor and wine are generally comparable to those in the U.S., and variety is good. For instance, it is not difficult to locate an acceptable Bulgarian red wine for about $3 a bottle.

attractive. Likewise, these handknit items made for men and women are beautifully done, often in striking and imaginative color combinations employing ancient folk patterns. Women's fashion boots and shoes are available, as are exercise shoes, but in limited size selections.

Clothing

Shoe repair and drycleaning are available and well done. Drycleaning is a bit more expensive than in the U.S.

Clothing in Riga is similar to that worn in the northern U.S., although frequently not as casual (except for the universal jeans/ sneakers wardrobe of children). Latvians dress quite smartly. In winter, for example, women wear appealing feltbrimmed hats or berets, well-tailored coats, dress boots, leggings, or skirts. You will notice a difference in styles if you visit Scandinavia, where women are more likely to wear parkas and slacks in winter. Include warm winter clothing, a variety of scarves and vests, and silk or thermal underwear for underheated rooms in winter: concert halls, classrooms, movie theaters, and churches. When the heating systems are off, public buildings can also be cold in spring and fall. There are many chilly and rainy days, so raincoats with linings, umbrellas, and waterproof footwear are necessities. The sidewalks in Riga are in poor repair, so have sturdy and waterproof walking shoes. There are a few joint-venture clothing stores that sell attractive but expensive blouses, sweaters, skirts, suits, and coats. Do not plan on building up a wardrobe here. Clothing in the nearby Scandinavian countries is attractive but, aside from the luck of catching a good sale, usually very expensive. It is not difficult to find skilled tailors and dressmakers in Riga who can copy just about anything if you have the fabric. Prices are going up but are still reasonable. There is a good store with imported fabric, but prices are very high. Larger shops now accept Visa and MasterCard. Hand-knit children's hats, scarves, and mittens are inexpensive and

Invitations that specify “formal” generally require no more than dark suits for men and dressy cocktail dresses, not necessarily long, for women.

Supplies and Services Do not depend solely on the local economy for supplies, even though stores in Riga are carrying more and more items at equivalent U.S. prices. Bring cosmetics, toiletries, feminine personal supplies, tobacco items, home medicines, drugs, common household needs, and any other conveniences used for housekeeping, household repairs, entertaining, etc. If you are not particular as to brand, you can often find an equivalent (usually German) product (e.g., shampoo, soaps, tampons, aspirin, razor blades). There is a new chain of drugstores (Drogas) in Riga selling these items with a rapidly expanding inventory. Stockmann's Department Store in Helsinki carries durable and attractive household items at much higher prices than in the U.S. Good cloth is very expensive, so consider buying fabric at sales in the U.S. if you do a lot of sewing. For instance, the fabric for simple bedroom curtains costs about $200 per window. Good fabric for skirts costs about $30 per meter. Basic services, such as tailoring, dressmaking, shoe repair, drycleaning, beauty- and barbershops, and automobile repair, are available here. The shoe repair services and the joint-venture drycleaners are good. Tailoring and dressmaking are also done with care, and prices 339

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are reasonable. The hotels have moderately priced beauty/barbershops, and there are many others, even less expensive, located in central Riga.

Domestic Help Good domestic help is available in Riga. The employment of domestic help paid by the hour is the easiest to obtain and is adequate. The scheduling of wages and benefits is in a transitional period. Currently, domestic help is extremely inexpensive (in 1999 wages were about US$2 an hour).

Religious Activities There are few areas in Europe where such a variety of religious denominations exist as in the Baltics. Latvia has 278 Lutheran churches, 186 Catholic, 92 Orthodox, 66 Baptist, 54 Old-Believers, 32 Seventh-day Adventist, 25 Pentecostal, 4 Jewish synagogues, 4 Budd h i s t t e m p l e s, 2 M e t h o d i s t churches, and 1 Calvinist. In Riga, there are Catholic and Orthodox monasteries, as well as a Krishna Consciousness Society and an active Church of Latter-day Saints. Services are either Latvian or Russian (Lutheran church services are in Latvian; Orthodox in Russian; Catholic in Latvian, Russian, and Polish). There is one English speaking service held every Sunday at 10 am in the old Anglican church of Saint Saviour's near Riga Castle in Old Town. The church has an active congregation composed of both Latvians and the growing international community in Riga. The Catholic church of St. Jacob's, also in Old Town, plans to hold alternating French and English services every Sunday afternoon at 4:30. The Salvation Army and YMCA are also active in Riga.

about 130 children enrolled, ages 4 through 18. There is a half-day preschool for 4and 5-year-olds, from 8:45 am to 1 pm. Kindergarten through grade 12 start at 8:45 am and finish at 3:15 pm. Instruction is in English. The school is sponsored by the State Department Office of Overseas Schools. Teachers are certified in the U.S., Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Western Europe, and Latvia. Starting with grade 1, students choose to study either French or German as a foreign language. Accreditation with the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools is pending (October 1999). ISL was authorized to teach the International Baccalaureate Primary Years and Middle Years Programme in 1998/1999. Extracurricular instruction is offered in art, music, physical education, computers, and Latvian culture. External testing is available: SAT, TOEFL, PSAT, and SSAT. Tuition is US$9,500 per pupil a year for grades 6-8, and US$9,000 for Kindergarten through grade 5. There is a one-time registration fee of $1,000 per pupil. The school is expanding rapidly and is planning for an enrollment of 200 within the next few years. The school leases space from the Bulduri Horticultural College. There is an indoor gym, sports hall, swimming pool, and auditorium. Transportation to and from the school is provided by a private firm that charges $90 per pupil per month. Students must be at least 5 years old to ride the bus. It picks up children at various locations in Riga.

Education The International School of Latvia is located in the coastal resort area of Jurmala, about a half-hour's drive from Riga. There are currently 340

If you wish to arrange a correspondence course, one possibility is through the University of Nebraska. The address is:

The University of Nebraska University Extension Division Lincoln, Nebraska 68508 A complete listing of overseas schools used by American students can be obtained from: The Office of Overseas Schools U.S. Dept. of State Washington, D.C. 20520 703-2359600. More information is available from the European Council of International Schools, which describes each member school, its fees, enrollment, curriculum, etc. ECIS Executive Secretary 2-8 Loudoun Road London, NW England.

Special Educational Opportunities Choral singing is popular in Latvia (and of superior quality). Several members of the international community sing in choirs in Riga. Individuals who paint and sculpt have been able to rent studio space at reasonable prices, and, for nominal fees, sit in on drawing and printmaking classes at the Riga Academy of Arts.

Sports There are a couple of Western-style commercial gyms that have relatively new weight machines, free weights, aerobics classes, sauna, and massage. Also, small groups do get together to play volleyball, soccer, and softball in the summer. Biking can be dangerous; it is often necessary to navigate heavy traffic. There are no bike lanes. There is a bike trail from the Riga suburbs to Priedane and another to Jurmala, which is quite nice on summer weekdays, when there are fewer baby carriages and dog walkers on it. A bike helmet is a must, but you will attract a lot of attention; Latvians do not wear them. It is possible to arrange horseback riding, fishing trips, pistol shooting, sailing trips, and hunting expeditions. There is excellent deer, wild boar, and elk hunting in Latvia; and group trips can be organized. Hunting licenses cost $330 ($170 Ls). A 50-meter indoor pool with two saunas and a weight room belonging to Riga Technical University,

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Cities of the World located on an island in the Daugava. It is possible to swim there for a nominal fee, but there are no secure lockers. The Radisson Daugava Hotel also has a nice pool and offers monthly or yearly membership for the pool only or in combination with aerobics and weight training. Bird walks and other nature tours can be arranged by local tourist associations. Billiards and bowling are available at the Seaman's Center and at the Boulinga centers. The Boulinga centers also has a few squash courts. Both facilities can be rented for parties. Cross-country skiing is popular, and there are many suitable trails. Equipment can be cheaply purchased locally.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The closest tourist attraction to Riga is the coastal resort area of Jurmala, about half an hour's drive northwest of the city. Its 10-mile stretch of white, sandy beach and pine-covered dunes are a welcome respite from city life. The water can be quite cold and has a high iron content, but it is much cleaner than in Soviet times, and most areas are now considered safe for swimming. The Bay of Riga is very shallow, so the water does warm up, and you can wade out several yards before it gets even chest deep. The Latvian countryside, with its dense pine and birch forests, rivers and lakes, and gently rolling hills, is especially beautiful in the spring, summer, and early autumn. There are two 13th-century castles near the medieval town of Sigulda, 52 kilometers from Riga. Called the Latvian Switzerland, Sigulda is the gateway to Gauja National Park, a 920-sq. km. river valley with sandstone caves, steep cliffs, nature reserves, and a winter sports area that includes a world class bobsled run. One of Latvia's outstanding examples of baroque architecture is the

Castle of Rundale (70 km from Riga). It was built by the same architect who built the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. It is located in the Province of Zemgale, an area rich with plains and woods, perfect for biking and car trips.

Besides the open-air museum, there are many art museums in town, along with more diverse collections, such as the pharmaceutical museum, the automobile museum, and the military museum.

On the outskirts of Riga, there is an internationally known open-air ethnographic museum on the shores of Lake Juglas. There are more than 90 buildings, including two 16thcentury timber churches, a fishing village, windmills, a peasant school, and an old inn that serves Latvian farm cooking: gray peas with bacon, sausages, cheeses, and beer.

The Foreign Literature Library has the largest collection of fiction in English, along with American and British periodicals. The National Library of Latvia receives many English-language magazines and newspapers, including the New York Times, within a few days of publication.

Midsummer, which is celebrated on June 23 and June 24, is a very special holiday in Latvia. Called Jani or St. John's Eve, it incorporates many ancient customs as it calls upon the spirits of the home, the fields, and the forests. Special beer is brewed; special cheese is served; wreaths of flowers for women and oak leaves for men are woven; and farm animals and farm buildings are adorned with flowers. Fires are lit on hilltops, as dancing, singing, eating, and drinking go on through the “white night” until sunrise.

Latvian independent TV presents a complete report of the country's n e w s, s p o r t s, a n d w e a t h e r i n English every evening. The state TV station runs CNN and BBC news every weeknight from 10 pin to midnight. Radio Riga does an English newscast every evening, and another station plays “American top 40” on Sundays and Voice of America daily. There is a weekly Englishlanguage 12-page newspaper called the Baltic Times, which provides indepth and up-to-date information on political, business, and cultural events in all three Baltic countries. It sells for 30 santimes in hotels and in many bookstores and kiosks.

Entertainment There are excellent operas, ballets (Alexander Gudonov and Mikhail Baryshnikov began their careers here), recitals, and concerts in Riga, and tickets are relatively inexpensive. The symphony and opera season runs between October and June, but concerts are held year round. Both amateur and state-sponsored theater are well attended, and some theaters offer earphones for English translations. There is also a permanent circus in Riga. Folk music is popular, and there is a variety of folk groups-men, women, mixed-some featuring various traditional instruments, some including dance in their repertoires. Choral singing is a specialty of the country, and international song festivals are held every few years in the early summer when tens of thousands of Latvians from all over the world come to sing together.

Restaurants in all price ranges can be good in Riga. More are opening each month, and so are bars, discotheques, and casinos. Spectator sports are offered throughout the year, including soccer, ice hockey, motorcycle racing, basketball, and volleyball. There is an International Women's Club that holds monthly luncheons and various weekly activities. Volunteer activities are most welcome here as the country struggles out of its painful economic situation. There is a “Friends of the Regional Children's Hospital,” which meets regularly and holds an annual charity ball every February. 341

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OTHER CITIES The city of DAUGAVPILS is located in southeastern Latvia. Daugavpils was founded in the 1270s and was occupied at various times in history by Poland, Russia, and France. The city sustained heavy damage during both World War I and World War II, but has been rebuilt. Daugavpils is home to several industries. These industries produce bicycles, furniture, processed foods, synthetic fibers, and electrical equipment. The city is also a trading center for agricultural and lumber products. Daugavpils is situated 136 miles (219 kilometers) southeast of Riga and is connected to the capital by an extensive railway system. Daugavpils has a population over 128,000. The southwestern Latvian city of JELGAVA was founded in 1266. This city is one of Latvia’s major industrial centers. Among the products manufactured in Jelgava are vegetables, foodstuffs, linen, and agricultural machinery. Jelgava had a population of roughly 75,000. LIEPÁJA is located in western Latvia on the coast of the Baltic Sea. The city, founded in 1253 by Teutonic Knights, has been occupied at various times in history by Swedes, Poles, Russians, and Germans. Liepája’s location on the Baltic Sea led to the city’s development as a major port and naval base. The city sustained major damage during both World War I and World War II. Several manufacturing industries have developed in Liepája. These industries produce agricultural machinery, canned fish, textiles, tobacco products, linoleum, paints, and iron and steel products. The city’s port is an important export center for Latvian agricultural, timber, and leather products. The population of Liepája in is estimated over 115,000. The city of VENTSPILS is situated on the Baltic Sea coast, approximately 100 miles (161 kilometers) west-northwest of Riga. Ventspils is 342

Cities of the World a vital Latvian city because its port remains ice-free during the winter. Many products are exported from Ventspils, including lumber, grain, flax, chemicals, and oil. The city’s location on the Baltic Sea has led to the emergence of a large fishing and canning industry. Ventspils has a population over 55,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Republic of Latvia is situated on the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Riga, bordered by Estonia to the northeast, Russia and Byelorussia to the east and Lithuania to the southwest. Its 25,499 square mile area is about the size of West Virginia in the U.S. and Belgium and the Netherlands combined in Europe. Geographically, grassland and marshy meadows, low hills and rolling plains make up most of the country which has an average elevation of 292 feet above sea level. Pine, oak, and birch forests cover approximately a quarter of the country. Latvia is rich in lakes (more than 5,000) and rivers (almost 1,000). It has a coastline of 307 miles, half lying on the Baltic Sea and half on the Gulf of Riga. Only three European countries— Estonia, Finland, and Iceland—are further north in their entirety than Latvia which has a latitude of between 55 and 58 and a longitude of between 20 and 28. Winter daylight hours are considerably shorter than in the northern United States. During most of December and January, the sun does not rise until after 9 and sets as early as 3 p.m. On the other hand, to compensate, the longest day of summer lasts almost 18 hours. In spite of its northern location, winter temperatures average only slightly below freezing because of the Baltic Sea and the Gulf Stream. Summer temperatures average around 70. The maritime climate also accounts for the coun-

try’s frequent cloud cover and considerable rainfall (average per year is approximately 27 inches).

Population Latvia's population is estimated at 2.6 million. Almost half of the Republic's total population lives in Riga and in other neighboring cities and villages within a distance of 70 kilometers, or 6% of its territory. The capital city, Riga (population 916,000, of which 48% are Russian and 40% Latvian), is the largest Baltic city. It is situated in the middle of the country from east to west and has an active and potentially major international seaport. Because of Latvia's status as an occupied country for 50 years, which included massive deportations of Latvians and immigration of Russians, Latvians comprise only 56% of the country's population. The Russian population is about 33% of the total, with the remainder consisting mostly of Belarusians, Ukrainians, Poles, and Lithuanians. Since almost one-half of the inhabitants of Latvia do not speak Latvian, a law giving Latvia the status of an official state language was passed in 1989. Most Latvians also speak Russian. During the years of independence prior to Soviet occupation, 55% of Latvians reported their religion as Lutheran, 25% Catholic, 9% Orthodox, 5% Jewish, and the remainder Baptists, Old-Believers, Seventh-day Adventists, and other sects. With the end of state controls, a religious revival is taking place.

Public Institutions The Supreme Council of the Republic of Latvia declared full independence on August 21, 1991, after 50 years of Soviet occupation. Latvia had lost its ancient independence in the 13th century and was ruled succ e s s i v e l y b y G e r m a n s, Po l e s, Swedes, and Russians. In 1918, non-Communist Latvia proclaimed independence, which lasted until the outbreak of World War II. A brief period of Soviet rule was followed by 4 years of German occupa-

Latvia

Cities of the World tion until Latvia was again incorporated into the former Soviet Union in 1944. Tens of thousands of Latvians were deported to Siberia both during and after the war, and Russians and people from other Soviet Republics began migrating to Latvia. In 1987, an independence movement emerged, with independence being granted in August 1991. The supreme state power is held by the Parliament or the Saeima. Latvia's Chief of State is the President. The Saeima is authorized to accept for trial and decide on any cases of social and state significance. The Council of Ministers, headed by a prime minister, is the highest executive body in the country. It oversees 13 ministries and a variety of state committees and other departments. Major concerns and priorities of the government include the need for a continuing energy supply. Latvia had been almost totally dependent on the former Soviet Union for oil and gas. Now, with the transition to world market prices, new sources are being sought. Electricity is purchased from Lithuania, which has its own generating plants. Likewise, improvements in transportation, telecommunications, and environmental pollution control are top priorities. In the area of private-sector development, implementation of a large industrial privatization program and training in business management are major concerns. Delicate issues remain to be resolved, particularly that of citizenship for the considerable Russian-speaking population. In 1998, the Citizenship Law was amended to allow children of non-citizens born after 1991 to become Latvian citizens automatically-no language test required. And the systems of windows regarding applying for citizenship for older residents was abolished. The applicant, who is born before 1991, must still, however, pass a Latvian competency exam.

Arts, Science, and Education Folklore has had a strong influence on Latvian culture both because of the population's close ties to the land and also because of the country's late introduction to Christianity (by German crusaders in the 13th century). Many ancient customs, blended with Christian rituals, are still practiced today, and the geometric symbols of mother Earththe sun, thunder, fate, etc., still appear as design elements in Latvian applied arts. Because of its long periods of foreign domination, Latvian literature did not come into its own until the mid19th century. This is when the ancient oral “dainas” were first collected, most notably by Krisjanis Barons, who published almost 36,000 verses over a period of 40 years. Also in this period, the great epic poem “Lacplesis” or The Bear Slayer was written by Andrej S. Pumpurs. Janis Rainis (1865-1929) is widely regarded as the greatest Latvian writer. Imants Ziedonis is perhaps the most famous living Latvian poet who established the Latvian Culture Fund-an organization promoting the development of all Latvian art forms. Latvia has 10 theaters; most of them are located in Riga. They include a beautifully restored opera house and ballet theater, a Russian theater, a puppet theater, a permanent circus, and many drama theaters. There are 13 movie theaters in Riga: five of these regularly show English-language movies with Latvian and Russian subtitles. There is a philharmonic orchestra and a chamber philharmonic orchestra with concert halls for both. Concerts and recitals are held almost daily. The organ of the Dom Cathedral in Riga's Old Town is one of the largest and best known in the world. Noted organists come regularly from the world over to give concerts there. Song festivals are a Latvian tradition; choirs and folkdance groups perform year long, and there are

occasional international festivals with folksinging and dancing in regional costumes. A representative collection of classic Latvian painters can be seen at the National Fine Arts Museum, and there are numerous art galleries in R i g a e xh i b i t i n g c on t e m p o r a r y Latvian paintings, tapestries, sculpture, and ceramics. There are 20 museums in Riga with a variety of collections, such as the Museum of History and Navigation and the Museum of Natural History. Latvians are avid readers. More than 200 Latvian and Russian newspapers are published in Latvia, as well as numerous magazines and periodicals. The city has 168 public libraries, although they have not been able to purchase new books or periodicals for several years due to underfunding. The Latvian Academy of Sciences is the most prestigious academic organization and encompasses 14 research institutes. It is now working toward greater contact and c o o p e r a t i o n w i t h t h e We s t . Research in medicine and technical fields, begun in the years of independence before 1940, continued under the Soviets with internationally acknowledged results in microbiology, polymer mechanics, wood chemistry, semiconductor physics, and medicine. Now these research institutes are undergoing considerable restructuring and revision of priorities. Education levels in Latvia are relatively high. The educational system is undergoing radical change in curricula after the effect of Soviet occupation on what was a highly developed school system ranging from free and compulsory preschool education to trade and technical schools and universities. There are 16 institutions of higher learning located in Riga. Throughout the country, there are also 55 technical colleges. The Baltic Academic Center, based in Riga, brings in scholars and university administrators from Western Europe and the U.S. to advise and teach during this critical period of transition. Through EU 343

Latvia and Swedish funding, a Stockholm School of Economics was established. It offers a 2-year bachelor's degree to Baltic citizens. This success will be expanded with the establishment of the Stockholm Law School, which is slated to open within the next 2 years.

Commerce and Industry Latvia's economy, which was part of the centrally planned socialist structure of the former Soviet Union since the mid-1940s, is now being transformed to the free market system it had enjoyed between 1918 and 1940. The massive deportation of Latvians and immigration of Russian workers over the last decades now compound the enormous difficulties of implementing economic reforms. Within the former Soviet Union, Latvia was the most prominent manufacturing center in the Baltics. It produced processed foods, railway cars, electronic components, and light metal goods. Livestock fed on Soviet grain yielded both meat and dairy products. Latvia has few natural resources, except for amber, timber, peat, and raw materials for construction. It has the largest forested area in the Baltics, but timber resources are threatened by heavy pollution. Another serious environmental problem is water pollution due to chemical dumping in ports, untreated sewage, and extensive use of liquid fertilizers. The country faced a nd is still encountering difficulties as trade with Russia collapses, prices soar, and unemployment grows. The material standard of living has declined for the majority of the population since 1991. There is an 18% Value Added Tax (VAT) on all goods and services. Nevertheless, great strides since independence have been achieved. Markets have refocused toward Europe, and the recent economic crisis in Russia has reinvigorated this transition. 344

Cities of the World On the positive side, agricultural privatization has moved quickly, and the number of private farmers has doubled in the last 2 years. Restitution is almost completed, and now the Government is working toward privatizing residential housing. Small-scale private enterprise is booming, especially in the retail area. Consulting groups are forming rapidly, and services are being developed to respond to business needs. Possibilities for development exist in the areas of communications, banking, the private sector, and transportation (there are three major ports: Riga, Ventspils, and Liepaja). Business ties to both the East and the West are increasing rapidly with the existence already of hundreds of joint ventures and the passage of an open free investment law. In addition, Riga and the Baltic seacoast of Jurmala, in spite of the pollution in the Bay of Riga, hold great potential for becoming major tourist attractions. Improvements in pollution and renovation of the unique architectural character that once made Jurmala one of the top spas in Europe have already reinvigorated this resort area.

hours, main thoroughfares move at a snail's pace. The increase in the number of cars has also made parking very difficult. Hopefully the parking situation will be alleviated to some extent by the development of parking structures (one outside the train station, one by Jacobs Barracks, and another off of Brivibas).

Transportation

Rental cars are available at several agencies for about $70 a day for a late-model car, and $40 for an older c a r. Vo l v o , M i t s u b i s h i , A u d i , Renault, Toyota, BMW, MercedesBenz, and Ford have dealerships/ repair shops in Riga.

Automobiles Driving in Latvia is on the right side. Generally speaking, roadways are in fairly good repair, although the absence of shoulders occurs frequently in the countryside. Most of the highways are two-lane. In the country, unless a 100-kilometer-anhour speed limit is posted, the limit is 90 kph. In town, the limit is 50 kph. Aggressive drivers, poorly maintained roads, and drinking have given Latvia one of the highest accident rates in Europe. In Riga itself, many of the streets are in ill repair, poorly lit, or not lit at all, and it is essential to be on the alert for unmarked potholes and darting pedestrians. Small street signs are affixed to buildings and are not visible at night. Driving in Riga has also become more hazardous and frustrating due to the boom in car ownership. During rush

In the countryside, bicyclists on the highways are a particular hazard, especially at night. They typically wear dark clothes and have no reflectors on their bicycles. There are several companies selling automobile insurance. Third-partyliability coverage is now available, and the Latvian Government requires third-party insurance of $5,000 no matter what other liability insurance the owner carries. The cost of theft insurance is high and may not fully cover the value of the vehicle. If the vehicle has both an alarm and an engine/transmission locking system, a deduction in the rate is possible. The insurance industry is a new concept in Latvia; make sure you deal with a reputable company.

Both leaded and unleaded gasoline is sold at local stations. With the growing number of Western gas stations, it is also easy now to purchase 95 and 98 unleaded gasoline. In addition to selling high octane gasoline, Statoil, Neste, and Shell also sell tires and spare parts, and do oil changes and repair work at some of their stations. Statoil and Neste have their own credit cards and also accept MasterCard. Gas is still cheap by European standards; about 32 santimes per liter for 98 octane unleaded gas as of February 1999 (about $2.40 a gallon). A fire extinguisher and automobile first-aid kit are required by law.

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Cities of the World Always carry a flashlight, reflective triangle, flares, lug wrench, and jack as well.

Local Riga has an extensive public transportation network. Buses, trolleys, and trams are all inexpensive by Western standards. They are frequently crowded, and breakdowns are common, but there is an increasing number of new buses and trams donated by the Scandinavian countries. Trolleys, trams, and buses run 24 hours daily, but between midnight and 5 am, routes usually run only one per hour. Tickets can be purchased from the ticket collector on the bus or tram and cost 18 santimes (about 30 cents U.S.). Keep in mind that buses and electric buses require a different ticket than trams. Taxis are numerous and can be found at one of the many taxi stands. Prices vary, so agree on the fare before departure. Police cars and vans are grey and white, with a blue light on top and are labeled “Policija.” Ambulances are various colors. They frequently do not use sirens but simply a flashing light. Fire trucks are red. Streets and sidewalks in Riga are hard surfaced but with an abundance of potholes and cracks. Many cobblestone streets, especially in the Old Town, can be extremely slippery when wet.

Regional Trains in Latvia are slow, overcrowded, lacking in food services and occasionally dangerous because of theft. Most highways are hard surfaced, but less-traveled roads are gravel or dirt. Bus schedules are generally reliable, and buses are popular modes of transportation for inter-country to Estonia, Lithuania, and Poland. Be aware that a reservation and a ticket do not always guarantee a seat. For example, Americans have reported standing on buses for the 4-hour trip to Vilnius. It is possible to make private arrangements to rent a car and

driver for trips to Lithuania or to Estonia.

than 90 minutes. The car ferries cross in about 3 hours.

A four-lane highway extends to the airport and on to the coastal resort area of Jurmala. There are other four-lane stretches in the country, for example, on the Baltic highway connecting Riga to Lithuania to the west and to Estonia to the east. Frequent encounters with farm machinery and heavy truck traffic can slow progress on the roadways.

Communications

Six international airlines service Riga at Riga Airport. Finnair flies to Helsinki three times a week; Lufthansa to Hamburg twice a week and to Frankfurt four times weekly; SAS to Copenhagen and to Stockholm four times weekly; Latavio Airlines to Helsinki twice a week and to Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Frankfurt each three times weekly; Hamburg Airlines to Berlin twice weekly; and Baltic International Airlines to Frankfurt and Dusseldorf four times a week. Air Baltic flies to London four times a week, Frankfurt daily, Stockholm daily (twice a day during the week), to Copenhagen twice a day, and to Helsinki daily Monday through Friday. Riair flies daily to Moscow; Belair flies daily to Kiev. British Air, Swiss Air, and Estonian Air also now service Riga and LOT Airlines and Czech Airlines have several flights a week to various cities via Warsaw and Prague, respectively. A typical fare from Riga to one of these cities is $300 to $400 and occasionally, there are specials to London and Copenhagen and a few other destinations. (1999) In the past, there has been weekly boat traffic to Stockholm and Norrkoping in Sweden, to Kiel in Germany, and to the Island of Gotland off the east coast of Sweden. There is also now a ferry directly to Stockholm that runs about every other day. These do not run during the winter. You can drive to Tallinn and take the car ferry from there to Helsinki or take the train to Tallinn and ride the hydrofoil across to Helsinki. The hydrofoil makes the trip several times a day and takes less

Telephone and Telegraph Telephone communications within Latvia are fairly reliable. Fax service is also available in several locations in downtown Riga. One page faxed to the U.S. costs about $5. Telex service is also available. The current charge is $1 per 25 words. Cellular phone service can be found all over Riga for about $4 a minute for calls to the U.S. (This is the standard toll for calls to the U.S. from residential/business phones, as well.)

Mail The cost of mailing a letter to the U.S. using Latvian postage is 40 santimes (about 75 cents). Weight allowances are less than the U.S.; if the letter exceeds the limit (about 4 pages) the price jumps to 80 santimes (about $1.50). There is also registered mail service operating out of the Central Post Office. The cost is double the normal rate, and delivery time is about the same. DHL Express is also available. The cost of a 150g letter to the U.S. (about 1015 pages) is about $45. Overweight letters are slightly higher. Delivery is 2 days. Free pickup service can be ordered by phoning 7013293 between 9:30 am and 5 pm. Couriers usually arrive within ½ to 2 hours. UPS is now available as well. Envelopes up to lkg. cost $40 and take 2 business days for delivery. Free pickup is arranged by phoning 222247. UPS service to Latvia from the U.S. is about $60.

Radio and TV Shortwave VOA and BBC broadcasts can generally be received morning and evening. There are 11 FM stations on Latvian radio that play Western popular and rock music almost around the clock. BBC is also available on FM radio. Cable 345

Latvia TV is offered in Riga; it carries CNN, BBC, MTV, Eurosport, Super Channel, etc. Satellite dishes can be purchased in Latvia. Costs are similar to the U.S. U.S. TVs and VCRs will work with transformers. If you wish to watch Latvian TV, purchase a multisystem TV that can handle both PAL and NTSC signals. These are available from a variety of sources, such as the tax-free company of Peter Justesen, which delivers to Riga weekly by truck from C o p e n h a g e n . M i x i n g U. S. a n d European VCR systems can be tricky, because tapes made in the U.S. often will not play on European systems.

English. The Soros Foundation bookstore and the newer Janis Roze store have the best selections. Prices are higher than in the U.S. Paperback novels can cost $9.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

English-speaking doctors are available who have had some training in the West. Medical facilities are improving. Some are up to Western standards. Helsinki, Stockholm, and Copenhagen are only an hour or two away by plane.

Local publications are of interest to those with Latvian- and/or Russianlanguage skills. Besides several regular newspapers, there are specialized publications dealing with literature, the arts, sports, business, fashion, etc. Even those without specialized knowledge of the language might find some of these papers useful for information on entertainment, concerts, sports, movies, theater, and TV programming. There is also a weekly advertising publication entitled Reklama that carries information about items for sale and reasonably priced charter tours to such places as Turkey, Israel, Cyprus, and Greece. The Baltic Times is a weekly English language newspaper covering news in all three Baltic countries. Single copies are 40 santimes; subscriptions are $40 per year for a private individual in Latvia. There are two visitor guides (in English) that are published about four times a year: Riga in Your Pocket and Riga This Week. These contain very useful information on dining, entertainment, and transportation. The daily International Herald Triune, the Wall Street Journal, the Economist, and international editions of Time and Newsweek are available at hotels. Four bookstores carry a limited number of books in 346

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Health and Medicine Medical Facilities There are English-speaking dentists in Riga. Some have up-to-date We s t e r n e q u i p m e n t a n d h a v e received high recommendations from the diplomatic community. One of these dentists is Canadian.

If you take prescription medicine regularly, bring an ample supply with you and use the services of a mail prescription plan. Some medicines are not readily available in pharmacies, and it can be time consuming to locate particular nonprescription items; however, more and more Western-manufactured drugs are available, and they are occasionally cheaper in Latvia. If you have a favorite brand, you may still want to consider bringing a supply with you.

Community Health Drinking water in Riga is sporadically chlorinated. City water has an unusually high iron content resulting from old, low-grade pipes. Tests of a double filtering system have been found to remove most pollutants and heavy metals from the water. Because of occasional seepage of sewage into the water pipes, there have been outbreaks of typhoid and infectious hepatitis in the past. However, no pathogenic bacteria or viruses have been reported in city water since 1994.

Diphtheria, tuberculosis, and influenza also occur, because of inadequate public cleanliness and food handling techniques. Vaccines for both hepatitis A and B are available. Also make sure your oral typhoid and diphtheria/tetanus boosters are up to date. It is possible to contract tick-borne encephalitis if you spend any time near forests or even city parks. There is a vaccine available that is strongly recommended. However, this is an Asian/European disease that does not occur in North America, so the vaccine is not available in the U.S. There are significant numbers of large, aggressive dogs in Latvia, and dog bites are not uncommon, even from leashed animals. Consider rabies preventive vaccine (three injections in the arm). A few cases of AIDS have been reported in Latvia. An extensive public awareness campaign is in progress with a 24-hour hotline.

Preventive Measures Colds, flu, and infectious diseases of the respiratory organs are the most common ailments here, especially during the winter months. All immunizations should be up to date. Bring blood-type records for all family members. The blood bank in Riga has been found to be acceptable in terms of screening and sterility, but the availability of blood products is limited. Infection control in hospitals and clinics is not yet up to Western standards, mostly due to inadequate teaching, supplies, supervision, and time. The local water does not contain fluoride, so bring a supply of vitamins with fluoride if you have small children. Most Americans use bottled water or distill/filter their own water with a machine to remove metallic and mineral residues. Prescription eyeglasses and contact lenses can be replaced lo cally through the joint venture optical companies in Riga.

Latvia

Cities of the World Bring a copy of your prescription with you. Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is common among the local population and affects Americans as well. Depressive symptoms typically occur in the fall when the days become significantly shorter and continue through the winter when there is heavy cloud cover obscuring the sun for weeks at a time. In the summer, the symptoms are reversed: hyperactivity and sleeplessness. Specially marketed high-intensity fluorescent lights reportedly reduce the symptoms. They may also be purchased in Finland. In winter, many people sustain serious injuries when they slip and fall on Riga's icy sidewalks. There are small cleats for sale in the U.S. that can be easily strapped over boots. These are not available in Latvia and would be a good investment. Remember that you will be doing much outdoor walking here, often while carrying packages. Downtown sidewalks are usually covered with thick sheets of ice during winter, especially in areas around markets and shops.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties No special immunizations are required other than hepatitis, due to the high incidence of this disease in Latvia Lufthansa, SAS, Swiss Air, Austrian Air, British Air, and Finnair all service Riga several times a week. You can drive from other parts of Europe; however, your vehicle should be in excellent condition, and it is necessary to carry extra gas, since full-service stations can be difficult to locate in some Eastern European countries. Do not count on using credit cards or travelers checks to purchase gas. Gas in Western Europe is as high as $5 a gallon. Winter driving can be haz-

ardous, so it is better to avoid driving at night, since lighting and road conditions are poor in some areas. A passport valid for at least six months is required. No visa is required for travelers remaining up to 90 days in a half-calendar year (from January to June and from July to December). Travelers remaining in Latvia for more than 90 days, including 180 day periods that cross over two halfcalendar years, must apply for temporary residence. Travelers who plan to remain in Latvia for more than 90 days must apply in-country for temporary residence. For more information, travelers may contact the Latvian Embassy, at 4325 17th Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20011, tel: (202) 726-8213. Within Latvia, contact the Ministry of Interior’s Citizenship and Immigration Department at Raina bulv. 5, Riga LV 1508, tel. (371) 721-9424 or (371)721-9427, fax: (371) 782-0306. Any traveler to Russia, even in transit, is advised to obtain a Russian visa prior to entry into Latvia. The process of obtaining a visa at the Russian Embassy in Riga can be lengthy, and involve surrender of the passport for an undetermined period of time. U.S. drivers’ licenses are not valid in Latvia, and American tourists must use a valid International Driver’s License issued through the AAA. After 6 months, Americans must apply for a Latvian Drivers’ License. For specific information on Latvian driver’s permits, vehicle inspection, road tax and mandatory insurance, contact the Latvian Traffic Safety Administration (CSDD), Bauskas Iela 68, Riga LV-1004, tel. (371) 627437. Americans living in or residing in Latvia are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Riga and obtain updated information on travel and security within Latvia. The U.S. Embassy is located at Raina Boulevard 7; tel. (371) 703-6200; fax: (371) 782-0047. Consular information and current travel information

can also be found on the Embassy Riga home page at http:// www.usis.bkc.lv/embassy/

Pets No regulations or quarantines restrict importing cats and dogs. Pet owners should have immunization records, especially rabies vaccination (within 1 year), and health certificate records certified by a veterinarian within 2 weeks of departure. Make sure that international certificates are used. Since most departures transfer in Germany, the certificate should be translated into German if an international certificate is not available. The German and Swedish customs agents are very strict; do not take any chances. Germany requires the pet's health certificate be signed by your vet not more than 10 days before the flight. Sweden requires an animal import license, even to transfer your pet to a connecting flight. Call the respective Embassy or airlines if you have any questions. They can supply international certificate blanks. Taking a pet from Latvia is subject to new restrictions due to the existence of rabies here. It is necessary to get a yearly rabies vaccination for your pet while it is here and then wait 30 days for a follow-up health inspection and certificate. Only then will you be allowed to take the pet from Latvia.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The official monetary unit is the lat. Bills are in denominations of 500, 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5. Nominal values of coins are: 2 Ls, 1 L, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 santime. Be aware that the 2 and 1 lat coins resemble U.S. quarters but have values of $4 a n d $ 2 r e s p e c t i v e l y. C u r rently,.58481at=US$1(as of December 1999). Banks in Riga do not cash personal checks, bu t you can set up an account and arrange for a transfer of funds for a fee: usually $10 minimum. Be aware that the banking situation in Latvia is in a state of flux. The largest commercial bank 347

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in the Baltics failed in May 1995 and after a period of stability, the Russian financial crisis led to the closure of a few more banks in the fall 1998 and in the spring 1999. American Express travelers checks are accepted by five local banks for a fee. They cannot be used elsewhere in Latvia. More and more stores and hotels accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express. Latvia uses the metric system of weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . May 1 . . . . . . . . . . June . . . . . . . . . . . June* . . . . . . . . . . Nov. 18 . . . . . . . . .

Dec.25 . . . . . . . . . . Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Dec.31 . . . . . . . . . . *variable

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New Year’s Day Good Friday* Easter* Easter Monday* Latvia Labor Day Midsummer's Eve* Summer Solstice LR Proclamation Day Christmas Day Boxing Day New Year’s Eve

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country. The Baltic States: A Reference Book. Latvian Encyclopedia Publishers, 1991. Bilmanis, Alfred. Latvia as an Independent State. Latvian Legation: 1947. Clemens, Walter C. Baltic Independence and Russian Empire. St. Martin's Press, 1991. Garber, Larry and Eric Bjornlund, eds. The New Democratic Frontier. National Democratic Institute for International Affairs, 1992. Kalnins, Ingrida, ed. A Guide to the Baltic States. Inroads, Inc: 1990. Kaslas, Bronis. The Baltic Nations: The Quest for Regional Integrat i o n a n d Po l i t i c a l L i b e r t y. Euramerica Press, 1976. Katz, Zev, ed. Handbook of Major Soviet Nationalities. The Free Press: 1985. Misiunas, Romuald J. and Rein Taagepera. The Baltic States-the

Years of Independence Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania: 1917-1940. C. Hurst and Company, London, and University of California Press, 1974. Nesaule, Agate. A Woman in Amber. University of Wisconsin Press, 1995. Rodgers, Mary M. and Streissguth, Tom, eds. Latvia: Then and Now. Minneapolis: Lerner Publications Company, 1992. Smith, Graham, ed. The Nationalities Question in the Soviet Union. Longman, 1990. Spekke, Arnolds. History of Latvia. M. Goppers, 1951. Thaden, Edward C. Russification in the Baltic Provinces and Finland, 1855-1914. Princeton University Press, 1981. Veti Vitauts Simanis, ed. Latvia. The Book Latvia, Inc., 1984. Williams, Roger, ed. Baltic States: Insight Guides. Houghton-Mifflin Company, Boston: 1993. The Association for the Advancement of Baltic Studies publishes a newsletter and a quarterly journal. For more information contact: Business and Subscriptions Executive Office of the AABS 111 Knob Hill Road Hackettstown, New Jersey 07840

LEBANON Republic of Lebanon

Major City: Beirut Other Cities: Tripoli, Tyre, Sidon

INTRODUCTION The Republic of LEBANON is a country that is struggling to revive following years of warfare. From 1975–1990, the country was nearly torn apart by fighting between Christian and Muslim militias. Also, intervention and occupation by Syrian and Israeli troops in Lebanon exacerbates political tensions within the country. Lebanon faces many years of reconstruction and political unrest. There is hope that eventually all foreign troops will be withdrawn and Lebanese—Christian and Muslim alike—will learn to peacefully coexist.

international businesses established their Middle Eastern headquarters in Beirut. Several flourishing industries, among them food processing and textiles, were concentrated in the city. Beirut’s nightlife and beautiful beaches earned the city the nickname “Paris of the Middle East.” Tourists from the West and Middle East flocked to the city. All of this changed with the onset of civil war in 1975. Beirut was divided into two sections. Christians occupied East Beirut while West Beirut was predominantly Muslim. Severe fighting between Christian and Muslim militias, terrorist bombings by both parties, and heavy shelling during the 1980s reduced much of the city to rubble.

Beirut, with a population of 1,878,000 (2002 est.), is Lebanon’s capital city. Throughout its history, Beirut’s position along the Mediterranean Sea has made it an important port and the largest population center. The city experiences short, rainy winters and hot, humid summers.

With an end to the civil war in October 1990, Beirut has begun the long process of recovery. In December 1990, Beirut was reunited after 15 years of division. Also, by May 1992, many Christian and Muslim militias in Beirut had disarmed and were disbanded. Many Lebanese who fled when war broke out are slowly returning to Beirut. The removal of rubble and the demolition of destroyed buildings continu e s t h r o u g h o u t t h e c i t y. T h e reconstruction of Beirut began in 1992.

Traditionally, Beirut has been a vibrant, lively city. The city served for many years as one of the most important commercial and financial cities in the Middle East. Many

Prior to the outbreak of civil war, Beirut was the educational center of Lebanon. The city is home to Lebanon’s major universities, including American University in Beirut and

MAJOR CITY Beirut

B e i r u t A r a b U n i v e r s i t y. B o t h schools were able to remain open despite the civil war. Beirut is one of Lebanon’s transportation centers. International flights enter Lebanon through Beirut International Airport. The airport was closed intermittently during the 1980s, but has since reopened. Highways connect Beirut with the northern city of Tripoli, the southern cities of Sidon and Tyre, and with the Syrian border. Before 1975, Lebanon’s port was an important transit point for goods bound for Damascus, Syria and Amman, Jordan. Lebanon’s port was a major battleground during the civil war and suffered tremendous damage. Some repairs have been made, although the port is not operating at full capacity.

OTHER CITIES Located 40 miles (65 kilometers) north-northeast of Beirut, TRIPOLI is Lebanon’s second largest city and a major port. The city was founded around 700 B.C. by the Phoenicians and was occupied at various periods in history by the Seleucids, Romans, Muslims, Ottoman Turks, Egyptians, British, and French. Tripoli was controlled by Syrian troops during the 1980s and was the site of severe fighting in 1983 between Palestinian and Syrian forces. The Palestinians, who 349

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Mediterranean coast of Beirut, Lebanon

had established their headquarters in Tripoli in 1982, were forced to flee. The city is home to industries which produce textiles and soap. S e v e r a l r e m n a n t s o f T r i p o l i ’s ancient past are still visible today, including the Tower of the Lions, the Teynal Mosque, and the Great Mosque. Tripoli has a population of approximately 209,000. The majority of Tripoli’s residents are Sunni Muslim, although there is a substantial Christian population. The city of TYRE is located on the coast of southern Lebanon. Tyre was founded by the Phoenicians around 2,000 B.C. and quickly became an important maritime port and trading center. Throughout the 8th and 7th centuries B.C., Tyre repelled attacks by the Assyrians and Babylonians. In 332 B.C., the city was captured by Alexander the Great after a seven-month siege. Many residents of Tyre were killed by Alexander’s troops or sold into slavery. The city was eventually controlled by the Seleucids in 200 B.C. and by the Romans in 68 B.C. Tyre, during the years of Roman occupation, became known for a purple dye made from snails and for beautiful silk garments. In 638 A.D., Tyre came under the control of the Muslims. In the early 12th century, the city became a major battle350

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© Carmen Redondo/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

ground during the Crusades, which were a series of military campaigns by Christians of western Europe to recover the Holy Land from the Muslims. Tyre was captured by Christian forces in 1124. Under the Christians, Tyre became a major city in the Crusader/Kingdom of Jerusalem. In 1291, Muslim armies captured and destroyed Tyre. Today, Tyre remains one of Lebanon’s major ports. The city has been heavily damaged by the civil war and by Israeli invasions in 1978 and 1982. Although the majority of its inhabitants are Shia Muslim, Tyre’s population includes many Christians of various sects. The current population is approximately 114,000. SIDON, on Lebanon’s southern Mediterranean coast, is one of the country’s largest ports. The city is one of the oldest in the Middle East, dating back to the third century B.C. Sidon was founded by the Phoenicians and ruled at various times by the Assyrians, Babylonians, Pers i a n s, S e l e u c i d s, E g y p t i a n s, Romans, and Ottoman Turks. In February 1975, the city became one of the flash-points for the Lebanese Civil War when the Lebanese Communist Party and other leftists organized violent demonstrations on behalf of fishermen who were

threatened economically by a statemonopoly fishing company. The Lebanese Army was called in to restore order and armed clashes erupted. Many persons were killed. Residents of Sidon, which has a Sunni Muslim majority and a large Christian community, differed strongly as to who was responsible for the violence. Most Muslims blamed the army, while the majority of Christians felt that the demonstrators were at fault. Today, Sidon is a market, trade, and fishing center. The city is approximately 25 miles south of Beirut and is linked to the capital via highway and railroad. Sidon’s population is predominantly Sunni Muslim, although there is a large Christian minority. In 2002, the city had approximately 146,00 residents.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Republic of Lebanon occupies a 135 mile strip of land along the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea. It comprises an area of 4,015 square miles, slightly smaller than Connecticut. Lebanon is bordered on the north and east by Syria, on the south by Israel and the west by the Mediterranean Sea. The Mediterranean coast of Lebanon is narrow and sloping. Lebanon is a mountainous country, with two parallel mountain ranges. The Lebanon Mountains extend north and south along the western coast of Lebanon. The Anti-Lebanon Mountains hug the eastern border with Syria. Between these two mountain ranges lies the fertile soil of the Biqa’ Valley. Although Lebanon has abundant rivers and streams, none of them are navigable. Her main river, the Litani River, is unique because it is the only river in the Middle East that does not cross a national boundary.

Lebanon

Cities of the World Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate characterized by a long, hot, and dry summer and cool, rainy winter. Fall is a transitional season with a gradual lowering of temperature and little rain; spring occurs when the winter rains cause the vegetation to revive. Topographical variation creates local modifications of the basic climatic pattern. Along the coast, summers are hot and humid, with little or no rain. Heavy dews form, which are beneficial to agriculture. The daily range of temperature is not wide, although temperatures may reach above 100°F (38°C) in the daytime and below 61°F (16°C) at night. A west wind provides relief during the afternoon and evening; at night the wind direction is reversed, blowing from the land out to sea. Winter is the rainy season, with major precipitation falling after December. Rainfall is generous but is concentrated during only a few days of the rainy season, falling in heavy cloud bursts. The amount of rainfall varies greatly from one year to another. Occasionally, there are frosts during the winter, and about once every fifteen years a light powdering of snow falls as far south as Beirut. A hot wind blowing from the Egyptian desert called the khamsin may provide a warming trend during the fall but more often occurs during the spring. Bitterly cold winds may come from Europe. Along the coast the proximity to the sea provides a moderating influence on the climate, making the range of temperatures narrower than it is inland, but the temperatures are cooler in the northern parts of the coast, where there is also more rain. Although the country is well watered and there are many rivers and streams, there are no navigable rivers, nor is any one river the sole source of irrigation water. Drainage patterns are determined by geological features and climate. Most rivers in Lebanon have their origins in springs, which are often quite large. The rivers are fast moving, straight, and generally cascade down narrow mountain canyons to the sea. Lebanon’s main river, the Litan River, is

unique because it is the only river in the Middle East that does not cross a national boundary.

Population The estimated population of Lebanon in 2001 was 3,628,000. No official census was taken between 1932 and 1995, when the official population figure was put at 3,111,828 (excluding Palestinians). Many Lebanese fled the country during the civil war. Of those that remain, approximately 95 percent are Arabs. Small minorities of Armenians and Palestinians reside in Lebanon. The official languages are Arabic and French. English is widely used by Lebanese government officials and in commercial circles. It is estimated that 70 percent of Lebanon’s population are Muslim while 30 percent are Christian. Both the Sunni and Shiite Muslim sects are represented, although Shiite Muslims are predominant (there are five legally recognized Islamic groups). The Druze sect, a group deriving from Shiite Islam but differing greatly from it, constitute a significant minority. Maronite Christians comprise the largest Christian sect. Other Christian sects include Greek Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Catholic, Roman Catholic and Protestant. In 2001, estimated life expectancy was 69 years for males and 74 years for females.

History Lebanon’s history dates back to the pre-Christian era. The Phoenicians settled in the country from approximately 2700–450 B.C. In later centuries, Lebanon’s mountain ranges served as a safe haven for Christians fleeing persecution and the Crusaders established several strongholds there. For several centuries, Lebanon was controlled by the Turks and incorporated into the Ottoman Empire. After World War I, the Ottoman Empire disintegrated. The modern state of Leba-

non was created from the remnants of five Ottoman Empire districts. The country was administered by the French from 1920–43. Lebanon was granted full independence in 1943 and by 1946, all French troops had been withdrawn. Since achieving independence, Lebanon’s history has been marked with political turmoil and bloodshed. In July 1958, the Syrians inspired a revolt against the government. At the request of Lebanon’s president, Camille Chamoun, U.S. Marines were sent to Lebanon to help restore order. The political situation stabilized and all American forces were withdrawn in October 1958. In the 1960’s, Lebanon was used by Palestinians as a guerilla base to launch attacks against Israel. As the activities of the guerrillas increased, Lebanon became a target for Israeli grievances against the Palestinians. In May 1968, Lebanese and Israeli troops engaged in several border skirmishes. Lebanon’s own efforts to control Palestinian commandoes caused armed clashes in 1969. Between 1970 and 1975, Palestinians increased their attacks on Israel. Israel retaliated by heavily bombing Palestinian camps and bases inside Lebanon. In addition to the Palestinian problem, tensions between Lebanese Christians and Muslims reached a boiling point. Under the 1943 National Covenant, all public positions were divided between the two religious groups. Because the Christians were in the majority, they received a dominant share of political power and social benefits. However, by the 1970’s, Muslims were in the majority. They demanded that political power be redistributed more equitably between Christians and Muslims. In April 1975, a bus load of Palestinians were ambushed and killed in the Christian sector of Lebanon’s capital, Beirut. In retaliation, Palestinians and leftist Muslim groups joined forces against Christian Phalange and Maronite militias. By 1976, a vicious civil war 351

Lebanon had erupted and engulfed most of Lebanon. Arab delegates met in Cairo in an attempt to end the conflict. At the invitation of the Lebanese government, various Arab countries agreed to send peacekeeping troops to Lebanon as part of an Arab Deterrent Force (ADF). The ADF, with a majority of Syrian troops, were dispatched to Lebanon. By late 1976, the ADF had quelled most of the violence and instituted a ceasefire. I n M a rch 1 97 8 , I s r ae l i tr o o p s invaded southern Lebanon in pursuit of Palestinian guerrillas. Israeli troops were eventually withdrawn in June 1978, but deployed proIsraeli Lebanese militia groups along Lebanon’s border with Israel. Fighting broke out between Syrian peacekeeping troops and various Christian militias in April 1981, effectively shattering the 1976 cease-fire. By late April 1982, violence had broken out not only between Syrians and Christians, but also between two Muslim factions. In June 1982, after an assassination attempt against the Israeli ambassador in London, Israel invaded Lebanon. Israeli forces quickly streamed north, eventually encircling West Beirut and laying siege to Palestinian guerrillas and Syrian troops trapped in the city. After two and one-half months of heavy bombardment, Palestinians and Syrian troops were allowed to leave Beirut under an Americanbrokered evacuation agreement. Troops from France, Italy and the United States were airlifted to Beirut to supervise the evacuation. Foreign troops soon became targets for terrorist activities. On October 23, 1983, 241 U.S. servicemen and 58 French troops were killed in their barracks in separate suicide bombing attacks. U.S. and other foreign troops were eventually withdrawn in 1984. Although Israel withdrew the bulk of her troops from Lebanon by 1985, she established a “security zone” in southern Lebanon. This “security zone” is manned by an Israeli-backed Christian militia. 352

Cities of the World In September 1988, President Amin Gemayel’s term in office ended. He named General Michel Aoun, a Christian, as prime minister until another president could be elected. The Syrians and their Muslim allies refused to recognize Aoun’s authority. Aoun launched a “war of liberation” in 1989 to oust the Syrians and their allies from Beirut. Vicious fighting between Syrian and Christian forces nearly destroyed the city. In February 1990, skirmishes broke out between troops loyal to Aoun and various Christian militias. Syrian forces eventually drove Aoun from power in October 1990. Aoun asked for and was granted refuge in the French embassy. He was eventually exiled from the country. In late 1990, the government, backed by the Lebanese Army, began to reassert control over Beirut. With the help of Syrian troops, the Lebanese Army dismantled barricades in the city and disarmed Christian and Muslim militias. On December 24, 1990, a new Government of National Reconciliation took office. In February 1991, Lebanese troops moved into southern Lebanon in an effort to disarm Palestinian militias. To date, Israel refuses to relinquish control of its “security zone” in southern Lebanon. Also, Syrian troops occupy most of northern and eastern Lebanon. Negotiations are continuing for the removal of all foreign troops and a return of Lebanese sovereignty.

Government Despite the political upheaval during the civil warfare, Lebanon’s governmental system continued to function. Lebanon is an independent republic. The Lebanese constitution was created with the help of the French in 1926 and has undergone several amendments. The constitution provides for creation of an executive branch, a National Assembly, and an independent judiciary body. The Lebanese constitution is also heavily influenced by the National Covenant of 1943. This covenant stipulates that a represen-

tative from each of Lebanon’s dominant religious groups must fill one of the country’s three top governmental positions. Therefore, the president is to be a Maronite Christian, the prime minister a Sunni Muslim, and the speaker of the National Assembly is a Shiite Muslim. The president, currently Imil Jamil Lahhud, wields substantial power. He has the authority to enact laws passed by the National Assembly, negotiate and ratify treaties, and propose new laws to the Assembly. The president is elected for a sixyear term and is not eligible for immediate re-election. The president is assisted by a self-appointed prime minister and a Council of Ministers. Together, these men constitute the executive branch of gove r n m e n t . T he p r i m e m i n i s t e r, currently Rafiq al-Hariri, and the Council of Ministers are accountable to the National Assembly. The National Assembly is a governmental body elected by the Lebanese people. The National Assembly now has 128 members and is responsible for levying taxes, passing a national budget, and evaluating the prime minister and council of ministers through a formal questioning on governmental policy issues. Because of the political turmoil in Lebanon, the National Assembly had only met periodically since 1975. In 1992, Lebanon held its first elections for the National Assembly since 1972. The validity of the elections was marred because many Christians refused to vote. Christians boycotted the election to protest the continued presence of 40,000 Syrian troops in Lebanon. A continued Syrian presence in Lebanon, according to Christians, would lead to an erosion of Christian rights and political domination by Muslims. Results of the 1992 elections indicated that pro-Syrian deputies gained a wide majority. The judiciary system of Lebanon is based on a mixture of the Napoleonic Code, canon law, Ottoman law, and civil law. There are three levels within the Lebanese court system.

Lebanon

Cities of the World They are the Courts of First Instance, Courts of Appeal, and the Court of Cassation. No juries are used during criminal trials. The flag of Lebanon consists of three horizontal bands. The top and bottom bands are red with a broader white band in between. In the middle of the white band is the Lebanese national emblem, a green and brown cedar tree.

Arts, Science, Education The Lebanese, along with the Palestinians, had one of the highest literacy rates in the Arab world. The rate was estimated at nearly 86 percent in 1997, but like most other spheres of Lebanese life, communal and regional disparities existed. In general, Christians had a literacy rate higher than that of Muslims. Druzes followed with a literacy rate just above that of Sunnis. Shias had the lowest literacy rate among the religious communities. The war adversely affected educational standards. Many private and public school buildings were occupied by displaced families, and the state was unable to conduct official examinations on several occasions because of intense fighting. Furthermore, the departure of most fore i g n t e a c h e r s a n d p r o f e s s o r s, especially after 1984, contributed to the decline in the standards of academic institutions. Admissions of unqualified students became a standard practice as a result of pressures brought by various militias on academic institutions. Primary schools are administered by the government and provide education free of charge. Primary education usually begins at age six and is compulsory for five years. Four years of intermediate school and three years of secondary school usually follow primary education. The National School of Arts and Crafts p r o v i d e s f o u r- y e a r v o c a t i o n a l courses in mechanics, architecture, electronics and industrial drawing.

Commerce and Industry Lebanese industry expanded rapidly in the late 1960s and early 1970s. This growth was characterized by a proliferation of small industries and was fueled by easy credit, a strong local currency, abundant and cheap supplies of skilled and unskilled labor, subsidized electric power, and trade protection at home and expanding markets abroad, particularly in the Persian Gulf countries. Years of strife changed all this. Civil war and disorder continually hampered production, and the financial climate was rarely conducive to investment. Many of Lebanon’s primary commercial and industrial capacities were heavily damaged or destroyed. There is some light industry, mostly for the productions of textiles, cement, and consumer goods. Lebanon has been able to produce agricultural products even though only 30 percent of the land is arable. Crops such as wheat, corn, citrus fruits, barley, vegetables, potatoes, olives and tobacco are grown. These serve as some of Lebanon’s primary exports to Saudi Arabia, Syria, Jordan and Kuwait. Gold and precious metals, textiles, iron and steel goods and motor vehicles are Lebanon’s main imports. In 1998, Lebanon’s imports mainly came from Germany, Russia, Finland and Sweden. Before the civil war, Lebanon was considered the financial and commercial center of the Middle East. Despite the violence, Lebanon’s banking system has been surprisingly resilient. This is due in large part to the financial subsidies supplied by Lebanese who have fled the country. Lebanon’s unit of currency is the pound.

Transportation Lebanon’s transportation network has been severely damaged by years of civil war. Most of Lebanon’s railways are either destroyed or in des-

perate need of repair. There were approximately 4,500 miles (7,300 kilometers) of road in 1999, 85 percent of which were paved. Most of Lebanon’s roads, however, are in poor condition. Lebanon used to have a patchwork railroad system. In 1991, Lebanon’s 253-mile (407-kilometer) railway system was not operating, and prospects for the rail system’s recovery were poor. Air travel to Lebanon is extremely difficult. Beirut International Airport is serviced by few international carriers and has been frequently shut down for indefinite periods of time. Lebanon has two international airlines, Trans-Mediterranean Airways and Middle East Airlines/Air Liban. Lebanon’s main ports are Beirut, Tripoli, and Sidon. However, northern ports are in control of Syrian forces while southern ports are controlled by the Israelis.

Communications In 1997, there were approximately 2.85 million radios and 1.18 million television sets in use. Lebanon’s main radio station is governmentcontrolled Radio Lebanon. Transmissions throughout Lebanon are in Arabic. Foreign broadcasts can be heard on shortwave frequencies in Armenian, Arabic, Portuguese, Spanish, French and English. TeleLiban broadcasts television programs in Arabic, French and English on three channels. Most of Lebanon’s daily newspapers are published in Arabic. However, there are some in French. The last English-language daily, the Daily Star, ceased publication in August 1985. Weekly periodicals are in Arabic and French. The country’s telecommunications system suffered severely from the violence that occurred after 1975. There were an estimated 700,000 telephones in Lebanon in 1999. Local telephone service is highly unreliable. International telephone 353

Lebanon communications are possible between Beirut and the United States.

Health Before 1975, Lebanon boasted advanced health services and medical institutions that made Beirut a health care center for the entire Middle East region. The civil war, however, caused enormous problems. Emergency medicine and the treatment of traumatic injuries overwhelmed the health care sector during the civil war. The problems in health care continued into the 1980s. Control over the quality of hospital and medical services was minimal, and many public and private hospital beds were unoccupied. Doctors, nurses and middle-level technical personnel were scarce. Health personnel were concentrated in Beirut, with minimum care available in many out-lying areas. Nowhere in Lebanon was there a health center that delivered a full range of primary health care services. Because of the lack of adequate data, only cautious inferences, based on partial data and observations and interviews by the World Health Organization (WHO) mission in Lebanon, can be made concerning the incidence of disease. Respiratory infections and diarrheal diseases headed the list of causes of death, and infectious diseases were endemic. Malnutrition was reported to be restricted to groups living in particularly diffic u l t s i t u a t i o n s, s u c h a s t h e Palestinians.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS The Department of State continues to believe that the situation in Lebanon is so dangerous for Americans that no U.S. citizen can be considered safe from terrorist attacks. The U.S. Embassy in Beirut is not fully staffed and personnel remain there 354

Cities of the World under exceptionally tight security. Due to the limited staff and heightened security, the Embassy cannot perform normal consular functions. Anti-American demonstrations throughout the Middle East have increased the risks associated with travel to Lebanon. Militants have become increasingly active along the country’s southern border and active landmines are still found throughout the south and other areas where civil war fighting was intense. Extreme caution should be exercised by all travelers. The Department of State has learned that several international carriers are now making intermediate stops in Beirut. U.S. citizens are advised not to board such flights because of the danger of traveling to Lebanon. Such stops are not always announced. Travelers should therefore inquire, before making travel arrangements in the region, whether a flight will make a stop in Beirut. Travelers are reminded that U.S. passports are not valid for travel to, in, or through Lebanon, which includes landing at the Beirut airport. The mailing address for the U.S. Embassy in Beirut is Antelias, P.O. Box 70-840, PSC 815, Box 2.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Good Friday** Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter** May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Lebanese Labor Day Aug. 15. . . . . . . . . .Assumption Day Nov. 22 . . . . . . . . . .Lebanese Independence Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ramadan* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Id al-Fitr* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Id al-Adha* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Al Hejra Mawlid al-Nabi* *variable, based on the Islamic calendar **variable Christian holidays

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Av i - R a n , R e u v e n . Th e S y r i a n Involvement in Lebanon Since 1975. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1991. Department of Geography Staff, ed. Lebanon in Pictures. Minneapolis, MN: Lerner Publications, 1988. Fisk, Robert. Pity the Nation: The Abduction of Lebanon. New York: Simon & Schuster Trade, 1991. Korbani, Agnes G. U.S. Intervention in Lebanon, 1958 and 1982: Presidential Decision Making. New York: Praeger, 1991. Mackey, Sandra. Lebanon: Death of a Nation. New York: Anchor Books, 1991. Makdisi, Jean S. Beirut Fragments: A War Memoir. New York: Persea Books, 1990. Murr, George G. The Lebanese Village: An Old Culture in a New Era. Troy, MI: International Book Center, 1987. Newman, Barbara P. The Covenant: Love and Death in Beirut. New York: Crown Publishers, 1989. Oz, Amos. The Slopes of Lebanon. New York: Random House, 1992. Picard, Elizabeth. Lebanon: A Divided Land. Translated by P h i l i p Fr a n k l i n . N e w Yo r k : Holmes & Meier, 1993. Salibi, Kamal S. Modern History of Lebanon. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1990. Stewart, Gail B. Lebanon. New York: Macmillan Children’s Book Group, 1990. Tames, Richard. Take a Trip to Lebanon. New York: Franklin Watts, 1989. Tanter, Raymond. Who’s at the Helm? Lessons of Lebanon. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1990. Thubron, Colin. Hills of Adonis: A Journey in Lebanon. New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 1990.

LIECHTENSTEIN Principality of Liechtenstein

Major City: Vaduz Other Cities: Malbun, Triesen

INTRODUCTION The region now known as LIECHTENSTEIN has been continuously inhabited since 3000 BC. The region was a part of Charlemagne’s empire in the 8th century, and it later was incorporated into the Holy Roman Empire. The Imperial Principality of Liechtenstein was established in 1719 and has been politically independent since 1815. The principality remained neutral in both World Wars. From 1852 until 1919, Liechtenstein was closely tied economically to Austria. When Austria’s economy collapsed after World War I, Liechtenstein sought closer ties with its other neighbor, Switzerland. Liechtenstein has thrived since World War II as a prosperous center for trade, finance, precision manufacturing, and tourism. Wine production is also economically important.

MAJOR CITY Vaduz Vaduz is Liechtenstein’s capital and main city, located in the western part of the country near the Rhine River. An estimated 5,000 people (about one-sixth of the country’s

population) lives in Vaduz. Many Swiss and Austrian citizens commute to Vaduz. Few international trains make stops in Liechtenstein, but the main terminal for reaching the country is Buchs, Switzerland, about five miles from Vaduz. Buses regularly travel from Vaduz to Feldkirch, Austria via Schaan. Two oneway streets encircle the center of town. Banking is an increasingly important part of the local economy, and Vaduz is the headquarters for many law firms, banks, and trust companies. Bank secrecy laws and low taxes encourage foreigners to invest in the financial services industry. Near Vaduz are several industrial firms that produce a wide array of products including frozen foods, dental products, central heating systems, and protective coatings for CD-ROMs.

Recreation and Entertainment The principality’s ski resorts are world famous, especially those at Steg and Malbun. The Steg resort has a popular cross-country ski course with an illuminated 1-mile stretch for night skiing. The Malbun resort is located 10 miles from Vaduz and has 12 miles of downhill runs. Members of the British royal family and other celebrities visit the Malbun resort. Hiking, bicycling, and soccer are popular in the summer.

The annual number of tourists has been in decline since 1981, although tour buses are seen in Vaduz as much as ever. Vaduz is a small town, and in the summer its streets can become congested with buses and cars. There is a plan to close the main street to all but pedestrian traffic in order to reinvigorate the center of Vaduz. The castle at Vaduz is closed to the public, but it is a popular subject for photographers. The Gutenberg Castle at Balzers is also closed to the public but there are plans to convert it into a museum. The Liechtenstein National Museum contains coins, weapons, and folklore of the country. For such a small country, Liechtenstein has an extensive collection of art works but has never had a museum in which to display them. Hilti, the country’s biggest company, has pledged to help finance the building of an art museum in the center of Vaduz. The museum will house the state art collection, exhibit parts of the prince’s personal collection, and attract outside exhibitions. The Liechtenstein Postal Museum contains more than 300 frames of national stamps issued since 1912. Groups of ten or more are permitted to sample wines from the prince’s own vineyard. Many residents belong to social clubs, and perform355

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AP/Wide World Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

Street in Vaduz, Liechtenstein

ing in choirs and bands is popular as well.

OTHER CITIES MALBUN is a hamlet in the mountains of southeast Liechtenstein and is known as the country’s ski resort. The resort offers two ski

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schools, and most runs are for novices or intermediates. With a population of only about 4,200, TRIESEN is the third largest village in the country. South of Vaduz, it lies nestled between the Rhine and the Liechtenstein alps. The beautiful countryside is perfect for outdoor sports enthusiasts. Hikers may take a trail along the gorge

of Lawena, the 1500 meter high alp, or move down into the valley at the foot of the Falknis cliffs. Triesen has several tennis courts and bicycle paths through the village and a beautiful indoor swimming pool. Nearby is the winter sports area Malbun, which offers ski slopes and a natural ice rink. Triesen may also serve as a starting point for excursions to the Swiss mountains or to

Liechtenstein

Cities of the World Lake Constance and to Walensee (Lake Walen).

the Rhine River Valley between Schaan and Vaduz.

Triesner Hall offers a variety of local cultural and entertainment events throughout the year, including changing historical exhibits and concerts. The St. Mamerten and Maria Chapels are located in the lower part of the village and also contain exhibits on local history.

Approximately 88% of the population is Alemannic, descendants of the Germanic tribes that settled between the Main and Danube rivers. The rest of Liechtenstein’s population consists of foreign residents, mainly Italian and Turkish. Several thousand Swiss and Austrians commute daily to work in the principality.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Liechtenstein is a landlocked country situated along the Rhine River Valley. Liechtenstein is one of Europe’s so-called “microstates” (the others are Andorra, Monaco, San Marino, and Vatican City) and has an area of only about 62 square miles, almost the size of Washington, D.C. It is bordered to the north and east by the Austria, and to the south and west by the Switzerland. The Rhine River flows along its western boundary. A narrow area of relatively level land lies near the Rhine River. The level land occupies about 40% of the country’s total area, and the rest of the country is mountainous. The highest point is Grauspitz (8,527 feet) in the south. A steep Alpine slope called the Drei Schwestern (“three sisters”) extends across the border with Austria. A warm southern wind called the Föhn makes the climate less severe than might be expected from the elevated terrain and inland location. Lowland temperatures average 24° F in January and 68° F in July. The average annual precipitation is 41 inches.

The state religion is Roman Catholicism, to which approximately 80% of the population adheres. Protestants and other sects account for the remainder. German is the official language, spoken in an Alemannic dialect.

ment supervision. Many students pursue higher education in Switzerland, Austria, and Germany. The country also has a music school and a children’s pedagogic-welfare day school.

Commerce and Industry Liechtenstein has developed since the 1940s from a mainly agricultural to an industrialized nation and a prosperous center for trade and tourism. The majority of factories produce specialized small machinery in addition to precision instruments. Industrial products are made almost exclusively for export.

Government

Transportation

The Principality of Liechtenstein was created on January 23, 1719 by act of Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI. The government is a constitutional monarchy, ruled by the hereditary princes of the house of Liechtenstein. The current monarch is Prince Hans Adam II, who was first given executive power in 1984 and assumed control in 1989. There is a unicameral parliament of 25 members elected every four years. The prince appoints a prime minist e r, c u r r e n t l y O t m a r H a s l e r, selected from the majority party of the parliament. Although the principality has its own civil and criminal codes, in certain instances courts composed of Liechtensteiner, Swiss, and Austrian judges may have jurisdiction over domestic cases.

The main railway for reaching Liechtenstein is Buchs, Switzerland, about 5 miles from Vaduz. Postal buses are the main form of public transportation. A half-mile tunnel connects the Samina River Valley with the Rhine River Valley. A major highway runs through the principality, linking Austria with Switzerland. The nearest airport is in Zürich, Switzerland.

The national flag is divided into two horizontal rectangles, blue above red. On the blue section near the hoist is the princely crown in gold.

Population

Arts, Science, Education

L i e c h t e n s t e i n ’s p o p u l a t i o n i s approximately 32,000. The population is most heavily concentrated in

Primary and secondary education is modeled on Roman Catholic principles and is conducted under govern-

Communications Telecommunications services are administered by Switzerland. There are no television stations that transmit from Liechtenstein. There are two daily newspapers, the Liechtenstiener Volksblatt and the Liechtensteiner Vaterland, both printed in German.

Health The principality has formed agreements with Switzerland and Austria that allow its residents access to hospital facilities in those countries. The government’s health care system provides complementary medical examinations for children under the age of 10.

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Liechtenstein

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS A passport is required for travel to Liechtenstein. A visa is not required for U.S. citizens for stays up to 90 days. For more information on entry requirements, travelers may contact the Embassy of Switzerland at 2900 Cathedral Avenue N.W., Washington D.C. 20008, telephone (202) 745-7900, or the nearest Swiss consulate in Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, or San Francisco. There is no U.S. Embassy or Consulate in Liechtenstein. For assistance and information on travel and security in Liechtenstein, U.S. citizens may contact or register at the U.S.

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Cities of the World Embassy in Bern at Jubilaeumstrasse 93, telephone (41)(31) 3577011.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan.2 . . . . . . . . . . .St. Berchtold’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . .Epiphany Feb. 2 . . . . . . . . . . .Candlemas Feb/Mar.. . . . . . . . .Shrove Tuesday* Mar. 19. . . . . . . . . .St. Joseph’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day May/June . . . . . . . .Ascension* May/June. . . . . . . .Whitsunday* May/June . . . . . . . .Whitmonday*

May/June . . . . . . . Corpus Christi* Aug.15. . . . . . . . . . Assumption Sept. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Nativity of Our Lady Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints’ Day Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Immaculate Conception Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . St. Stephen’s Day Dec. 31 . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Eve *variable

RECOMMENDED READING Honan, Mark. Switzerland. Hawthorn, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 1997.

LITHUANIA Republic of Lithuania

Major City: Vilnius Other Cities: Kapsukas, Kaunas, Klaipeda, Panevéüys, Šiauliai

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated May 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

capital city and occupied several government buildings and communications centers. However, the Lithuanians remained defiant. The Soviet Union finally recognized Lithuanian independence on September 6, 1991. The country was also admitted as a member of the United Nations on September 17, 1991.

MAJOR CITY

INTRODUCTION

Vilnius

The Baltic nation of LITHUANIA was one of the republics in the former Soviet Union. Following the end of World War I in 1918, Lithuania was created as an independent republic. Lithuania maintained its independence until 1940, when it was annexed and absorbed into the Soviet Union along with the neighboring countries of Latvia and Estonia. In March 1990, Lithuania became the first Soviet republic to declare its independence. The Soviets responded harshly by imposing an economic blockade in April 1990, but the Lithuanians refused to back down. After several failed attempts to resolve the dispute through diplomatic negotiations, the Soviet Union sent troops into Lithuania’s

Vilnius, the capital city, with an estimated population of 553,000, is situated at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnele Rivers, in southeastern Lithuania. Vilnius is 180 miles from the Baltic Sea, and just 21 miles from the Belarusan border. The city comprises an area of 100 sq. miles - of which one third is forests, parks, and gardens. The city is surrounded by wooded hills. Vilnius was founded and established as the capital of Lithuania in 1323 by Grand Duke Gediminas, founder of the Gediminian (later known as the Jogailian) dynasty, which ruled Lithuania, and later Poland, for 250 years. Archaeological findings show that the area was inhabited well over 2000 years ago. Over the centu-

ries it has been ravaged many times by foreign troops. The interwar fate of Vilnius differed from that of the rest of Lithuania. When the Lithuanians declared independence in 1918, the borders of the state were not precisely defined. This was also true of the newly restored Polish state. Skirmishes with Poland began almost at once and continued during the short but intense Polish-Soviet War of 1920. Following a separate truce and the signing of the Treaty of Suwalki, renegade Polish troops under General Zeligowski, with unofficial approval from the Pilsudski government, invaded Vilnius and the surrounding territory. The League of Nations could not solve the Polish-Lithuanian conflict. The city remained under Polish administration until 1939. During that time the city grew and became a multi-ethnic center with large numbers of Polish, Jewish, and Belarusan inhabitants. In fact, 30 percent of Vilnius’ population was Jewish. The city was known as the “Jerusalem of the North” and it was considered one of the world’s most important centers of Jewish culture. In 1939, after Hitler’s Germany and Stalin’s Soviet Union secretly agreed to divide Poland and the Baltic States between themselves, Lithuania signed a treaty with the Soviets whereby, in exchange for the 359

Lithuania r e t u r n o f V i l n i u s, L i t h u a n i a accepted Red Army bases on its territory. This was followed by the first Soviet occupation in 1940. One year later, in June 1941, came the German invasion and occupation. This lasted three years until 1944. One-third of the capital’s population was killed. Mass executions took place in the nearby forest of Paneriai. Most of the Jewish population of Vilnius was murdered and the rich Jewish culture which had flourished in Vilnius since the Middle Ages was virtually annihilated. The Soviets reoccupied Vilnius on July 13, 1944. At the end of the war, only half the prewar population remained. The city had no water, electricity, means of transport, or modern communications. All industrial enterprises had been destroyed and 42 percent of the city’s residential areas and 20 percent of its architectural monuments were in ruins. During the following Soviet period, Vilnius was the capital of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic. The population steadily grew as the city was rebuilt. Huge apartment complexes were constructed and new industries were established. Vilnius was home to the only university in Lithuania, as well as to several other institutions of higher education. The city attracted students, artists, professionals, and workers. Many people from other Soviet republics were relocated to Vilnius to work, thus decreasing the indigenous population and associated nationalist tendencies. Vilnius also served as headquarters for units of the former Red Army, including the troops which assaulted the Television and Radio Tower on January 13, 1991. Today Vilnius is the heart of Lithuania’s political, economic, cultural, and public life. The Old Town is one of the largest in Eastern Europe, encompassing 74 blocks, 70 streets and lanes, and over 1200 buildings. These buildings were constructed over the course of five centuries, reflecting many styles of architec360

Cities of the World ture. Unfortunately, the Old Town was severely neglected for many years and many sections are in desperate need of repair. The modern sections of the city, built during the Soviet period, are typical of the planned “microregions” of the Bloc: very large apartment blocks, with stores, schools and recreation areas nearby. The large greenbelts and parks make the city pleasant in the Summer.

Food The food supply situation in Vilnius has improved markedly, though prices are at Western European levels. Fresh produce is still sometimes hard to find; most of it is imported. Bring specialty items, like ethnic foods and staples such as sugar, flour, rice and cake mixes.

Clothing Lithuania is a northern country with a generally cool climate. As has been said, “There is no such thing as bad weather; only bad clothes.” Lithuania is completely dependent on outside sources of fossil fuel, so houses may not be as warm as desired. Bring winterwear, including thermal underwear from the States, or prepare to pay a premium

Men: Since the summer season is short, fall and winter weight suits and jackets will suffice. Sweaters are a must. In fall and spring, the city steam heat is turned off and homes get cold. Bring comfortable warm clothes to wear in the house during the unheated period. Formal wear is not required. Heavy winter coats and hats, raincoats, boots and socks are mandatory. Casual wear is worn away from the office.

Women: A well rounded wardrobe for all seasons consisting of several cocktail/dinner dresses, suits or skirts with jackets, blouses, sweaters, slacks, and sportswear is appropriate. Most Lithuanian women can knit or sew, and you can find or commission items for less than Western

prices. Heavy winter clothing, boots, and rainwear are a must. Also nece s s a r y a r e c o m f o r t a b l e wa r m clothes to wear in the house during the fall and spring when the homes are unheated. Bring a good supply of leotard and pantyhose- especially if you are short or petite. Lithuanian women are fashion-conscious and generally dress more formally than women in the U.S.

Children: Schools do not require uniforms so play clothing is acceptable. Lots of sweaters, foul weather wear, and warm pajamas are a requirement.

Supplies and Services Supplies: One can get almost any goods available in Western Europe, with some markup for shipping from there. This includes toiletries, cosmetics, etc. Many, but not all prescription drugs are available. For unusual or continuous-use prescription drugs, it is best to have a supplier in the U.S.

Basic Services: Dressmakers and tailors offer satisfactory service. Dry cleaning is available. Barbers and hairstylists are spotty in terms of quality and service.

Religious Activities Lithuania is a predominantly Roman Catholic country. Feast days and holy days are observed with pageantry at churches and cathedrals. In addition, the city has Russian Orthodox, Jewish, Lutheran, and Evangelical services one can attend. Services in English are rare to nonexistent.

Education The American International School of Vilnius has been growing steadily since it was founded in 1992. It currently has students in grades pre-K through 8. Private language tutors as well as teachers of dance, music, art, crafts, and sports are readily available at reasonable rates.

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the Tower in place of the Soviet Republic banner. Trakai, the medieval capital of Lithuania, is 18 miles southwest of Vilnius, situated in a beautiful area of recreational lakes, forests, and hills. This stronghold and former residence of Lithuanian Grand Dukes has been meticulously restored. The whole complex stands on an island. Trakai is also home to a small minority of Karaites (a tribe of Turkic people) who were brought to Lithuania by Grand Duke Vytautas in the 14th Century to serve as his bodyguards.

Church in Vilnius, Lithuania

Sports There are opportunities for outdoor and indoor sports. Lithuanians are enthusiastic basketball players. They love to stroll in the woods collecting berries and mushrooms. Fishing is possible year round. Good riding stables are located just outside town. Many people enjoy crosscountry skiing. Tennis and badminton courts are available. The Hash House Harriers are very active.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The old town of Vilnius is very attractive. There are exquisite examples of Gothic and Baroque architecture, such as the Church of

Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

St. Anne. It is said that when Napoleon passed through Vilnius on his way to Moscow, he was so impressed with the small church that he wanted to “carry the church back to France in the palm of his hand.” The University of Vilnius is a wonderful ensemble of buildings and beautiful courtyards. All of the different architectural styles seen in Vilnius are represented here. The neoclassical Cathedral and its bell tower (a perfect meeting place) stand at the foot of Castle Hill. From the top of that hill, the famous Tower of Gediminas dominates the skyline from Old Town. In October of 1988, the national flag of independent Lithuania was raised above

Kaunas, the second largest city in Lithuania, with a population of 379,000, is 60 miles west of Vilnius at the fork between the country’s two largest rivers, the Nemunas and Neris. It is said that Napoleon Bonaparte stood at that fork and said, “Here begin the great steppes of Russia.” Eighty-nine per cent of Kaunas’ population is ethnically Lithuanian, which, as the interwar capital, is much more homogenous than Vilnius. Kaunas’ Old Town is charming and boasts a pleasant Parisian-style walking mall. Museums there include the Ciurlionis Gallery and the Devils’ Museum. The former is shrine to an early nationalist composer, the latter chock-full of hundreds of depictions of devils from Lithuania’s Christian and pagan folk art past. An hour from Vilnius on the road to Kaunas is Rumsiskes, location of the open air museum to Lithuanian peasant life. Although Lithuania is a small country, it is divided into four distinct regions: Zemaitija (Lowlands), Aukstaitija (Highlands) , Dzukija and Suvalkija (south, near Poland). The Museum’s exhibits, brought to Rumsiskes from all over the country, are representative of these four regions. Easter is an especially good time to see the thatched farmhouses, take part in the Easter Egg Roll (like marbles, but with decorated eggs), and sample the simple cooking of Lithuan i a ’ s p a s t . I n S u m m e r, t h e Rumsiskes Folk Music Ensemble creates an authentic country atmo361

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sphere and encourages spectator participation. For nature-lovers, Lithuania offers the striking contrasts of the Baltic sand dunes of Nida, the seemingly infinite forests and lakes of the East, and the spas of Druskininkiai and Birstonas.

Entertainment Cultural life in Lithuania is rich and varied. One has only to look at the schedule of events at the Opera and Ballet Theater or the Philharmonic, to plan for an evening well spent. When the weather turns cool, operas and ballets offer respite from cold grey skies. The Academic Theater, State Youth Theater, Russian Drama Theater, and the Little Theater of Vilnius all produce plays by internationally known playwrights. Some knowledge of Lithuanian or Russian is necessary to follow the action. Folk music lovers will not be disappointed in Lithuania. Every year in May, a week-long celebration of folk music takes place in Old Town. Tangible, lasting expressions of Lithuanian folk culture are captured in ceramic, textiles, and leather goods. “Daile (Art)” galleries are open in Vilnius, Panevezys, and Kaunas.

Social Activities There are many Americans throughout the country. These include Peace Corps volunteers, USG contractors and grantees, missionaries, and Lithuanian-American businessmen. Vilnius is home to both Rotary and Kiwanis; informal gatherings of businessmen take place often. Charity events draw from both business and diplomatic communities with impressive results. There is an International Women’s Club which meets monthly and organizes different events.

OTHER CITIES The city of KAPSUKAS is one of Lithuania’s industrial centers. 362

Industries in Kapsukas produce textiles, furniture, processed foods, automotive parts, and building materials. Kapsukas has a population over 36, 000. KAUNAS, located 60 miles (90 kilometers) west of Vilnius, is Lithuania’s second largest city. Between 1920 and 1940, Kaunas served as the capital of Lithuania. The capital was transferred to Vilnius following the Soviet annexation of 1940. The city was heavily damaged during World War II, but has been rebuilt. Kaunas is the home of many major industries. These industries manufacture furniture, machine tools, and textiles. The city also serves as a transportation hub for rail and water transportation. Kaunas has t w o e x c e l l e n t m u s e u m s. T h e Museum of Stained Glass and Sculpture features many beautiful exhibits. Another museum, the Ciurlionis Museum, houses the works of famous Lithuanian artist M. K. Ciurlionis. In 2001, Kaunas had an estimated population of 379,000. KLAIPEDA is Lithuania’s most important port. The city’s location on the Baltic Sea has led to the development of a large fishing fleet and several shipbuilding and fish canning factories. Klaipeda is also the home of other major industries. These industries manufacture timber, paper, and textiles. Klaipeda’s port facilities are an important asset because they remain ice-free during the winter. The city has a Marine Museum and Aquarium that offers tourists many interesting exhibits. Klaipeda had a population of approximately 194,000 in 2001. The city of PANEVÉÜYS is located in north-central Lithuania. Panevéüys is home to many industries. These industries produce glass, metalwork, and processed foods. The city’s Panevéüys Drama Theatre is one of the finest in Lithuania. Panevéüys had a population of 122,000 in 2001. Current population figures are not available.

ŠIAULIAI is a Lithuanian city noted for its leather industry. In addition to leather, Šiauliai industries produce precision tools, furniture, processed foods, and metal products. Several educational institutions, including a medical school and polytech nic institute, are located in Šiauliai. The city had a population of 133,000 in 2001.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Lithuania, covering an area of 26,173 sq. miles, is the largest of the three Baltic States, slightly larger than West Virginia. The country lies on the eastern shores of the Baltic Sea at approximately the same latitude as Denmark and Scotland. Lithuania’s neighbors are Latvia to the north, Belarus to the east and south, Poland and the Kaliningrad Region of the Russian Federation to the south and southwest. Lithuanians believe that the geographical center of the European continent lies 20 kilometers north of Vilnius, the capital. A country known for its agrarian and wooded beauty, Lithuania is characterized by flat plains and rolling hills. The highest, Kruopine, is o n l y 9 0 0 f e e t a b o ve s e a l e v e l . Roughly one-fourth of the territory is covered by woodlands, consisting mainly of pine, spruce, and birch. One of the olde st oak tree s in Europe, found in eastern Lithuania, is said to be about 1500 years old. The forests are home to a variety of animals including elk, bison, and wild boar; hunting is a popular pastime. Lithuanians especially enjoy mushroom collecting and berry picking. More than 700 rivers and creeks crisscross Lithuania. The largest, the Nemunas, was once a strategically important shipping route through Lithuania. Its banks are dotted with castles and fortresses.

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© Dean Conger/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

View of Vilnius, Lithuania

There are numerous lakes, especially in eastern Lithuania where the Igna lina Nationa l Park is located. This region is home to the Ignalina Nuclear Po wer Plant which exports electricity to other countries in the region. Lithuania’s climate is moderate. Summer brings average temperatures of 65°F (afternoon highs in the 70’s and 80’s) and plentiful rain. July is the warmest month. Summer days are long with only a few hours of darkness. Winters tend to be cold, damp, and overcast. Temperatures average about 30°F and days are very short. Average annual precipitation amounts to about 26 inches.

remaining 3 percent Belarusans, Ukrainians, Latvians, Germans, and other nationalities. The capital, Vilnius, with 553,000 inhabitants, has a multi- ethnic flavor as many residents are ethnic Russians and Poles. Other major cities include Kaunas, the interwar capital (379,000 inhabitants), the port city of Klaipeda (194,000); Siauliai (133,000) and Panevezys (122,000).

Public Institutions

Population

On the leading edge of the processes which led to the disintegration of the Soviet Union, Lithuania today faces great challenges as it builds a democratic state and struggles to rid itself of the legacy of 50 years of Soviet domination.

The Republic of Lithuania is home to 3,699,000 people, approximately 81 percent are ethnically Lithuanian; 9 percent Russian or Russianspeaking; 7 percent Polish; and the

Lithuanians have a long historical memory. They recall the glorious medieval Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which reached its zenith under

the rule of Grand Duke Vytautas the Great. It was he and Jagiello (Jogaila in Lithuanian), King of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, respectively, who led the joint Polish-Lithuanian troops to v i c t o r y a g a i n s t t h e Te u t o n i c Knights in the Battle of Tannenberg/Gruenwald (Zalgiris, in Lithuanian) in 1410, and stopped the medieval German drive Eastward. Under Vytautas, the territory of the Grand Duchy extended from the Baltic to the Black Sea. After Vytautas’ death, the political importance of the Grand Duchy slowly declined. In 1569, to counter the growing strength of the Russian state, the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy were formally united in a Commonwealth. The head of that union was elected king by the nobility. Following a series of partitions in the 18th Century, this Commonwealth was wiped off the European map in 1795 as Russia, Austria, and Prussia partitioned its 363

Lithuania lands. Most of Lithuania fell under Russian rule while a smaller portion near the Baltic coast was appropriated by Prussia. For the next 123 years, Lithuania experienced intense repression and Russification. Vilnius University was closed (1832) and the Latin alphabet was banned (1864). But as repression increased, so did the determination of a growing Lithuanian intelligentsia to retain Lithuanian culture, language, and traditions. Taking advantage of the political turmoil in Russia near the end of the First World War, Lithuania declared independence on February 16, 1918. Wars to affirm this independence were fought against the Red Army, the Polish Army, and combined German-Russian mercenary forces which plundered broad areas in the Baltic states. Polish occupation of the Vilnius region in 1920 was a breach of the Treaty of Suwalki with Poland which confirmed Lithuanian rights to Vilnius. This step hopelessly strained Polish-Lithuanian relations between the wars. It rendered cooperation in the face of greater menaces, in 1939, impossible. During the interwar years of independence, Kaunas became the provisional capital. Lithuania reached a living standard equal to that of Denmark and had one of the most stable currencies in the world. Lithuanian independence was to be short-lived. The secret MolotovRibbentrop protocols between Germany and the USSR led to Soviet occupation in June 1940. During this first occupation, large-scale repression took place and about 40,000 people were exiled to Siberia. When Nazi Germany invaded the Sov iet Union in 1941, the Lithuanians attempted to reestablish an independent republic by revolting against the Soviets. In the face of the German Occupation, this effort failed. Under Nazi control, more than 200,000 Jews were murdered, 95 percent of the Jewish population, the highest proportion in 364

Cities of the World Europe. This wiped out a major center of Jewish culture and learning which had thrived in Vilnius (the “Jerusalem of the North”) since the Middle Ages. Tens of thousands of Lithuanians were deported to the Reich for manual labor. Soviet troops and terror returned in 1944. Another 250,000 Lithuanians were deported to the Siberian Gulag. Over 100,000 lives were lost in a guerrilla war against the Soviets which lasted until 1953. Virtually no family was left untouched by the horrors of the Second World War and the Soviet Occupation. Lithuania spent the next 45 years as a Soviet republic. The Soviets restored lands occupied by Poland and Germany in the interwar and wartime years. Lithuanian exiles in the West, especially the U.S. kept the flame of an independent nation alive, along with Lithuania’s culture and traditions. The Lithuanian diplomatic service continued to function in countries (including the U.S.) which refused to recognize its incorporation into the USSR. Inside L it h u an ia , m a n y L i th u an ia n s attempted to resist Sovietization. Armed resistance (the so-called “forest brothers”) continued sporadic a l l y u n t i l t h e e a r l y 1 9 5 0 s. Lithuania resisted much of the Soviet-imposed industrialization, sparing the large influx of Russian workers which occurred in Estonia and Latvia. Despite these modest successes, life under the Soviets was hard. Moscow repressed any expression of Lithuanian national aspirations. Travel to the West was very difficult. In the late 1980s, Gorbachev’s policy of perestroika allowed deeply hidden aspirations of the Lithuanian nation to surface. “Sajudis,” a movement which began in support of perestroika, quickly snowballed into a full-fledged drive for independence. Despite warnings and threats from the Kremlin, the Lithuanians, led by a distinguished musicologist, Vytautas Landsbergis, reclaimed their independence when the new, democratically-elected Supreme Council voted on March 11, 1990 to

reestablish the Lithuanian Republic. The country persevered in its independence movement despite an economic blockade imposed by Moscow and Soviet Army operations which left 23 dead in 1991. The collapse of the Moscow coup in August of 1991 led to international recognition of Lithuania’s independence, including by Russia. Foreign embassies began to open in the fall of that year. The United States plus others never recognized Lithuania’s forced incorporation into the USSR and maintained continuous ties with representatives of the interwar government in exile. The United States resumed diplomatic relations with an in-country government in September 1991. Lithuania’s present struggle to transform itself into a free-market democracy has shown considerable progress but is still incomplete. As in other Central and Eastern European countries, the society has been buffeted by economic dislocation, weak markets, a crumbling infrastructure, a bloated public sector, and a shallow understanding of working democracy. In the Fall of 2000, Lithuanians elected a new Seimas (parliament). The Social Democratic Coalition, consisting of the Lithuanian Democratic Labor Party, the Social-Democratic Party, the New Democratic Party, and the Lithuanian Russian Union, won the largest percentage of votes and the majority of seats in the new Seimas. In February 1998, Vladas Adamkus narrowly won the race for the position of President. The prime minister, appointed by the president, is Algirdas Brazauskas.

Arts, Science, and Education “Folk art is the foundation of a nation’s artistic tradition,” said Mykolajus Ciurlionis (1875-1911), Lithuania’s most renowned painter and composer. Since Lithuania has

Lithuania

Cities of the World traditionally been an agrarian society, most of its folk art has been created by peasants. It has a rich tradition of music and dance, folklore and architecture, as well as wooden sculpture and applied folk arts. Currently, there is intense interest in research on authentic folk culture. Many ethnographic ensembles, both professional and amateur, perform the music and songs that accompanied the simple people throughout life. Song and music remain important means of expression for the Lithuanian people today. The struggle for independence from the Soviet Union was characterized by many a s t h e “ S i n g i n g R e v o l u t i o n .” Unarmed, the people faced down the military might of the Soviets by standing side by side, drawing strength from the lyrical songs of their forebears. During the Soviet period, cultural life was subsidized and censored by the government. However, performance excellence was achieved in many fields, including classical music, opera, ballet and theater. Released from the censor’s shackles and responding more directly to the public’s tastes and needs, the fine arts and music scene has developed in new, different directions. Especially notable for excellence are the Lithuanian State Youth Theater, the Vilnius Little Theater, the Vilnius Academic Theater, and the Kaunas Academic Theater. Lithuania has a very high literacy rate and the nation reveres its poets and writers. The situation in publishing reflects an intense interest in translations of internationally known authors and genres, which once were forbidden. Lithuania was at the forefront of sc i e n c e a n d t e ch n o l o g y i n t h e former Soviet Union. Although much of the work in these fields was a part of the Soviet military industrial complex, the achievements by certain specialists in certain fields (mainly mathematics, physics, and natural science) were notable.

The educational system is broken down into preschool, elementary (4 years), middle school (up to 9- or 12year programs); trade schools; and schools of higher education. Vilnius also has numerous Polish and Russian general education schools. Children enter elementary school at age 6 and education is compulsory until age 16. There are more than a dozen schools of higher education, including universities, technical schools, pedagogical institutes, and art schools. Vilnius University, founded in 1579 by Jesuits, is the oldest and largest higher education institution in the country. Broad educational reform is underway.

Commerce and Industry During the 50 years of Occupation, the economy was completely integrated into and subordinated to the centralized Soviet system. In 1991, the economy went into a tailspin as old ties dried up, payment systems broke down, and new markets were slow in emerging. Historically, Lithuanians were a farming people. The Soviets forced the collectivization of agriculture and excessively rapid industrialization in the 1950’s and 60’s. The Supreme Council passed legislation in 1992, to privatize agriculture and implement a system of restitution for property seized during the Soviet Era. As a result, there were 134,000 private farmers in 1994. They farm about 32 percent of arable land. Production dropped as a result of dislocation due to the changes and uncertainty among farmers about markets for their produce. Under Soviet rule, Lithuania overproduced domestic needs for meat and dairy products by 150 percent and exported the surplus to the Moscow and Leningrad market. The dominant sectors in industry are chemicals and food processing. Machine-building and metal works have been developed. Light industry includes textiles, knitwear, electron-

ics, furniture, plywood, building materials, and paper production. Lithuania produces enough electrical power for its own needs and exports about 40 per cent of its output. In addition to the Ignalina power plant, there are other facilities for producing electricity with o i l , g a s, a n d h y d r o p o w e r. T h e Mazeikiai oil refinery produces refined petroleum products for domestic use and export. Crude oil is imported almost exclusively from Russia. In addition to electricity and refined oil products, Lithuania’s exports include food (mainly meat and dairy products), machinery and parts, and light industrial products. Major imports include crude oil, gas, metals, chemicals, machinery, consumer goods, and feed grain. Trade has shifted dramatically to the West, which accounts for about 60 percent of Lithuania’s foreign commerce. Lithuania became a member of the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund in 1992. Together with Latvia and Estonia, Lithuania is a member of the Baltic Council. Lithuania has close ties with the Nordic Council and most international and regional economic organizations. Lithuania’s economy continues to undergo a structural transformation. More than 86 percent of enterprises have been privatized, including companies in the energy and telecommunications sectors. Foreign investment remains modest, although the U.S. has been one of the largest sources. Major U.S. companies active in Lithuania include Philip Morris, McDonald’s, IBM, and US West. Lithuania has made efforts to ease its difficult transition from a command economy to a free market system. The country has signed free trade agreements with 20 countries. Lithuania has worked on restructing its financial sector, which helped keep the country safe from the 1998 Russian financial crisis. High unemployment and low consump365

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tion, however, have hindered economic growth.

Transportation

Telephone and Telegraph International direct dial from residences is possible.

Local

Radio and TV

The local transportation system includes electric trolley buses and diesel buses. They run regularly during the day throughout the city, but there are drawbacks: they are slow, often break down, and are terribly overcrowded at rush hours. Radio-dispatched cabs are still relatively inexpensive.

There are now both Lithuanian (PAL system) and Russian television channels. Independent radio and TV stations have multiplied in recent years. Satellite television (CNN, British Sky News, CNBC, BBC, the Cartoon Network and numerous Scandinavian channels which carry English-language movies and series, as well as French, German and Italian stations) and some cable are available at moderate cost.

Regional The main roads and highways between major cities are serviceable. One must take considerable care while driving off the intercity highways, as slow horse-drawn vehicles and large potholes are common hazards. During the winter months, snow and freezing conditions add to the driving hazards as the roads are not well plowed. Intercity buses and trains are not geared for the comfort- or speed-oriented, except the express train between Kaunas and Vilnius. The overnight train to St. Petersburg is acceptable; reserving the entire compartment is recommended. Trains to Warsaw depart throughout the day. Lithuanian Airlines, LOT (to Warsaw), Lufthansa, SAS, Finnair, and Austrian Air offer regular service to ma j o r E u ro p e a n d e s ti n at io n s. Ticket prices are high except to Eastern European destinations and t h e U. S. T w o f e r r i e s c o n n e c t Klaipeda with the German ports of Kiel and Mukran. Baltic Air and Estonian Air serve Riga, Tallinn, and Helsinki; a Denmark to Klaipeda ferry service is also available. Riga and Tallinn have ferry service to Scandinavia. The two other Baltic capitals are 3 and 7 hours away by car, respectively. No visa is necessary for American citizens spending less than 90 days in Lithuania. 366

Communications

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals The major daily newspapers are Lietuvos Rytas, Respublika, Lietuvos Aidas (the Opposition paper), and Tiesa (the Labor Party press). Weeklies of the above press are published in Russian. Additionally, there is the Russian-language Echo Litvy and the Polish language Kurier Wilenski. A few English Language weeklies are available, including the Baltic Times. Some Western newspapers and periodicals are available at major hotels or by subscription.

Health and Medicine The German Pharmacy stocks and sells most Western European medicines and treatments and most local drugstores (apteka) carry a wide assortment of West-European medicines. A number of spas and personal hygiene/cosmetology businesses have opened in the last year.

Community Health Periodic outbreaks of serious infectious illness strike the Lithuanian population. Hepatitis is a concern, especially when traveling. Consumption of shellfish should be avoided in the warmer months. All travelers should make arrange-

ments to bring their shot records up to date before arrival.

Preventive Measures Fluoride supplements are recommended for children as the city water is not fluoridated. Vitamin supplements are beneficial, especially in the Winter months. The city water carries a burden of iron and other minerals from the well south of town, and an aging distribution system. While biological contamination in Vilnius is rare, drinking the water is not recommended because of the heavy mineral and metal content. Individuals are encouraged to filter or distill water prior to drinking or cooking. Bottled water is a must outside the capital area.

Pet Care It should be noted that veterinary care falls below U.S. standards and “routine” operation in the U.S. are difficult, if not impossible, to carry out successfully in Lithuania. Care should be take to ensure that pets are fully immunized against the standard diseases (most of which are required for entry to Lithuania). Pet food is easily available in the country.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS There are no direct flights from the U.S. to Lithuania. Several European airlines, SAS, Lufthansa, Finnair and a few others serve Vilnius from most major European air hubs. Make sure your travel plans comply with the Fly America Act. There are strict controls on the export of items more than 30 years old. To avoid difficulties in reexporting any things that fall into this category, a detailed list of such items should be presented to Lithuanian customs. Items declared upon entry can be freely exported. There is no limit on the amount of currency which can be brought into

Lithuania

Cities of the World Lithuania. Unofficial travelers must declare the amount of currency brought into the Country to expedite problem-free export.

country has a cash economy. Lithuania uses the metric system.

Americans do not need visas to enter the Baltic States or Poland. Separate visas are necessary for travel to the Commonwealth of Independent States, or Russian Federation. Travelers should bring 6 passport-sized photos of self and family members for various ID cards. Passport photos are available locally.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Lithuania does not quarantine animals that are apparently in good health and are accompanied by a recent (no older than a month) veterinarian’s certificate and proof of recent rabies vaccination. The unit of currency is the Lithuanian Litas which, since 1993, has been fixed at 4-1 to the dollar under a currency board arrangement. Plans to peg the currency to the euro are underway. Credit cards are expanding in usefulness with many restaurants, hotels and some supermarkets accepting virtually any common card, but in general the

Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Jan. 13 . . . . . . . . . Freedom Fighters' Day Feb. 16 . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day July 6 . . . . . . . . . . Mindaugas Coronation Day Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . Assumption Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints’ Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Fike, Linus R. Svetur (Away from Home). New York: Carlton Press, 1992. Gordon, Harry. The Shadows of Death: The Holocaust in Lithuania. Lexington, KY: University Press of Kentucky, 1992. Lerner Geography Department Staff, ed. Lithuania. Minneapolis, MN: Lerner Publications, 1992. Lown, Bella. Memories of My Life: A Personal History of a Lithuanian S h t e t l . M a l i b u , CA : Jo s e p h Simon, 1991. Senn, Alfred E. Lithuania Awakening. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1990. Suziedelis, Saulius. The Sword & the Cross: A History of the Church in Lithuania. Huntington, IN: Our Sunday Visitor, Publishing Division, 1988. Willerton, John P. Patronage & Politics in the U.S.S.R. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1992.

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Luxembourg, Luxembourg

LUXEMBOURG Grand Duchy of Luxembourg

Major City: Luxembourg Other Cities: Clervaux, Diekirch, Differdange, Dudelange, Echternach, Esch-sur-alzette, Vianden

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Luxembourg. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION It would be easy to overlook tiny Luxembourg in a European itinerary, but you'd be missing out on a very charming experience. Squeezed into a pocket of land about one-fiftieth the size of England, it is Europe in a miniature, complete with wine country, abbey towns, a cosmopolitan city, hiking trails, restored castles, lovely river valleys, and a multilingual populace. Luxembourg has been influenced at one time or another by the Spanish, Belgians, French, Germans and Austrians. But perhaps the most influential of all were the Romans, who ruled the land for nearly 500 years. They left behind an excellent network of roads and bridges that,

in addition to unifying the nation physically, linked the people psychologically. Positioned between two major historical world powers (and having been conquered at times by both of them), Luxembourg takes a good deal of its identity from its neighbors' contributions. This shows itself both in the generally amicable relationship between the countries and their citizens and in their shared linguistic traits. Multilingualism is universal among Luxembourgers, and both the German and French languages are used in the press, in politics, and in daily life. French is most common in government and schools, though Luxembourgish is the language you will hear most frequently on the street. English is widely understood in tourist areas. Luxembourg's location in the heart of Europe made it a desirable territory for the continent's abundance of expansion-minded rulers. So it built itself into one of the most powerful fortresses in the world. Most of the fortifications were dismantled in the mid-19th century, and fortresses were converted into parkstoo soon, as it turned out. Luxembourg was invaded and occupied in both World Wars by its neighbors to the east and sustained terrible damage in World War II at the Battle of

the Bulge. The damage has since been repaired, and Luxembourgers, grateful for the U.S. role in liberating their country, have been particularly friendly to travelers from the U.S. ever since. Geographically, the country is surprisingly varied, considering its small size. The northern area has the best scenery, particularly in the heavily forested area of the Ardennes, whereas the southern area is more industrial and urbanized. The eastern region, along the Sauer and Moselle Rivers, has lovely vineyards and wineries. Luxembourg offers the advantage of life in a medium-sized Western European city coupled with many of the social and cultural aspects of a modern capital.

MAJOR CITY Luxembourg City Luxembourg City is situated in central, southern Luxembourg. The city is the formal residence of the Grand Duke and the seat of government. The Court of Justice of the European Communities, the EU Court of Auditors, the general secretariat of the EU European Parliament, the 369

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European Investment Bank, the EU Office of Statistics, and many other community services are also found here. In 1963, the city celebrated its 1,000th anniversary. For centuries, Luxembourg was one of the most powerful fortresses in the world, earning the name of “Gibraltar of the North.” Although the fortress was dismantled during the years 1867-83, the many remnants of these ancient fortifications, the medieval towers and ramparts, are of great interest. The casemates are a 23-kilometer network of underground passages, hewn from solid rock. The Grand Ducal Palace, built during the 16th and 18th centuries, is located among the narrow, winding streets of the old city. Within the Cathedral Notre Dame are the Grand Ducal Mausoleum and the tomb of Luxembourg's national hero, John the Blind, who was killed in 1346 at the Battle of Crecy. The European Center on the Kirchberg Plateau commands an impressive view of the entire city. Built on ridges overlooking the confluence of the Alzette and Petrusse Rivers, the city has attractive park areas along both streams. The Place d'Armes, in the center of the city, is the site of numerous band concerts during the spring and summer months.

Food Most foodstuffs, including many American products, are available in Luxembourg. Prices are higher than in the U.S. for many foods, such as meat. Uncooked fruit and vegetables are safe, and the quality is high. Beef is lower in quality than in the U.S., but the quality of pork is higher. American cuts cannot be obtained locally. High quality poultry is available. Excellent-quality fish and seafood are available.

Clothing Clothing is similar to that worn in the northern U.S. Average annual rainfall is heavy, so raincoats, umbrellas, and waterproof footwear are needed. Extremely cold weather is not prolonged, but it is often chilly and damp. Bring warm suits, coats, overshoes or other warm footwear, and a good supply of sweaters. Summer weather is also cool and unpredictable. Most summer-weight clothes can be worn for only a limited time. Sports clothing and heavy shoes are useful for walking, shooting, fishing, and other outdoor activities. Men: Ready-made European-style suits are available locally. Workmanship of these suits is good, but costly. Much available haberdashery is imported, and prices are higher than in the U.S. Good shoes from England, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy are available. Women: Because of the cool, damp climate and the tendency to under heat houses, women wear more suits and sweaters throughout the year than in most parts of the U.S. Competent, but expensive, dressmakers are available. Hats, gloves, and other accessories are available, and there are several good, but expensive, women's wear shops. “A” width or narrower shoes are scarce, and local shoes are generally expensive. Good-quality furs are priced lower than in the U.S. Mending, glazing, and alteration of furs are done well and more cheaply than at home. C hil d re n : C hi l d r en 's cloth e s, including winter clothing, are similar to those worn in the northern U.S. and are readily available in Luxembourg, though they are more expensive than in the U.S. Due to the damp climate, children need warm boots and extra shoes.

Supplies and Services Water is potable, but it has a high calcium content, making it hard for washing purposes. Bottled water is available at reasonable prices. 370

General living needs are sold locally and at Bitburg/Spangdahlem. Internationally known cosmetics and toiletries are available locally.

Bring a supply of any favorite or special cosmetics. A wide variety of good-quality fabrics is available locally. A wide range of personal services is available in Luxembourg, including shoe repair, laundry, drycleaning, hairdressing, clothing alterations. Photographic equipment is readily available, and developing is satisfactory, but much more expensive than in the U.S.

Domestic Help Full-time domestic help, especially a c o m p e t e n t h o u s e k e e p e r, i s extremely difficult to find. It is somewhat easier to find cleaning personnel who work by the hour. Persons who employ domestic help for at least 4 consecutive hours a week must register with the “Office des Assurances Sociales” The employer must contribute to the worker's social security. This tax is about 25% of the worker's salary and includes medical and retirement. The typical expense per week for a full-time (40 hours) maid runs about 15,000 FLux. Part-time help, e.g., 6 hours a week, costs approximately 1,800 FLux. Extra help is available for dinners and recept i o n s. A c o m m e r c i a l s u p p l i e r charges 2,500 FLux per waiter for an evening. Cleaning help can also be obtained from several companies who supply their own staff and equipment. The client pays these companies a flat hourly rate and they take care of all insurance. Some American students at the Miami University European Study Center take odd jobs, such as helping in the house, working in the garden, and babysitting. They may be contacted through the university.

Religious Activities The local population is predominantly Roman Catholic. Although many church services are held in German, services in English, French, or Luxembourgish are available. Sermons are frequently given in a different language from the service. A Lutheran church with services in German and a syna-

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Courtesy of the Luxembourg Tourist Office

View of bridge and the city of Luxembourg

gogue are also located in Luxembourg City. The English-speaking Catholic Community of Luxembourg offers services in English. The Protestant Anglican Chaplaincy and Christian Community Church also hold services in English. A number of Americ an residents in Lu xe mbourg attend Christian services at Bitburg AFB and English-speaking churches in the area around Bitburg.

Education Primary and secondary public education in Luxembourg is operated by the Ministry of National Education. Tuition is free and foreign students are accepted. The curriculum is roughly the same as in the other European schools. Languages of instruction are Luxembourgish, German, and French. American students, unless fluent in German or French, may experience considerable difficulty. English is

taught only as a second (fourth) language. Religious instruction is conducted in all schools by Roman Catholic clergy, but students are exempted if the parents so request. The International School of Luxembourg, which offers a full American curriculum in grades kindergarten through 12. ISL is fully accredited by both the European Council of International Schools (ECIS) and the Middle States Association in the U.S. It is overseen by a predominantly American board of directors under the aegis of the Luxembourg Ministry of Education, which subsidizes ISUs operation. The total student body numbers 424, with 257 in pre-K through grade 6, and 167 in grades 7 through 12. Americans make up the largest single block of students with 28%; Scandinavians are next with 15%; altogether among the students there are 27 nationalities from five continents. The Upper School offers advanced placement and honors

classes in most key subjects. Small classes provide each student with a good deal of personal attention. In addition to its formal curriculum, ISL offers a wide variety of supplementary and elective opportunities, including vocal music, instrumental music, art, computer science, theater, debate, etc. With its relatively new gymnasium and extensive contact with other American and international schools in the region, ISL conducts an active sports program, both intramural and interscholastic. The European School in Luxembourg (kindergarten through grade 12) is for children of employees of the European Community who are working in Luxembourg. Instruction is in English, French, German, Dutch, Italian, Portuguese, or Spanish. Each section has teachers accredited by the board of education in the respective countries. First choice, however, is given to families 371

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belonging to the European Union countries. An English-speaking International Kindergarten is also located in Luxembourg. Miami University (Oxford, Ohio) European Study Center was opened in Luxembourg in 1968. About 100 American undergraduates come there from Ohio to study for one or two academic terms under a faculty of 12, including 4 American professors. Students wishing to attend the center must request approval from Miami University in Ohio. Sacred Heart University (Fairfield, CT) is also established in Luxembourg and offers an MBA program as well as certificate in various fields of management. Luxembourg has no full-curriculum university of its own. Luxembourgers must go to France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, or elsewhere for their higher education.

Special Educational Opportunities Several language schools are located in Luxembourg. Private tutors are available for French, German, and most other school subjects. The Luxembourg Board of Education arranges courses in Luxembourgish for foreigners as part of its adult education program. Luxembourg City also makes available, cost free, courses in French, German, and Luxembourgish. Foreign women's clubs have also organized language courses. A number of dancing schools and gymnastics classes are available in Luxembourg. There are also ballroom dancing classes for adults. Some professional schools in Luxembourg allow amateurs to study pottery-making, drawing, etc. During the summer, special classes called Beaux Arts are held for about 6 weeks.

Sports The Grand Ducal Golf Club has an excellent 18-hole course and a 372

small, attractive clubhouse where meals are available. The course, considered to be among the most challenging and beautiful in Europe, attracts golfers from all over Europe. Instructors and caddies are available. Membership is not inexpensive, nor necessarily available to all. A permit from the Ministry of Justice is required to possess a hunting weapon. Hunters and fishermen also must purchase an annual license. Wild boar, deer, and pheasant hunting are excellent and popular in Luxembourg. Many wooded streams provide fine fishing. However, hunting and fishing rights are privately owned, so you are usually dependent on invitations from Luxembourgers. Gym classes for men and women are available. The more popular spectator sports are basketball, soccer, rugby, bicycling, handball, and volleyball. Team membership in these sports and activities such as karate and judo are open to everyone. The city has several swimming pools; the Olympic Swimming Pool in the suburb of Kirchberg is a world-class facility. Pool memberships are also available at the Hotel Intercontinental and Royal Hotel. River bathing is possible in several places. Water skiing is popular on the Moselle, and scuba diving may be done in Lake Esch-sur-Sure. Sailing, kayaking, and canoeing are also possible, but you sometimes have to provide your own equipment. Membership is possible in several private tennis clubs, and a few wellkept municipal courts are available. Indoor tennis courts are also available for hire by the hour or on a seasonal basis. About 4 miles outside the city is an indoor ice skating rink that can be enjoyed year round. Two riding academies offer riding lessons, and many riding trails are located in the surrounding countryside. A new squash club is also available. There are several lovely bicycle paths, both from the city and out in the countryside.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The Luxembourg countryside is beautiful in the spring, summer, and early fall. There are hundreds of kilometers of well-groomed hiking trails throughout the country. Tourists and hikers from all over Europe enjoy the unspoiled natural attractions of “Little Switzerland,” the Sure and Moselle Valleys, and the thick forests of the Ardennes Mountains. Over 130 old castles dot the country, including Vianden, Clervaux, Bourscheid, Beaufort, and Esch-sur-Sure. Grape and wine festivals and tastings are held in towns and villages along the Moselle in the fall and spring when the grapes are gathered and the wine is bottled. Trier, a former provincial capital of the Roman Empire and an important German town in medieval days, is 30 miles from Luxembourg City and an interesting day's excursion. North from Trier along the German Moselle, a series of picturesque wine towns and ruined castles extends to Koblenz where the Moselle joins the Rhine. To the south near Luxembourg, the Verdun Battlefield in France is well worth a visit. Paris and Brussels are fun for a weekend visit. Reims, Cologne, Aachen, and Strasbourg are within easy reach of the Grand Duchy. Spring trips to Holland's tulip fields also are popular.

Entertainment Luxembourg has several motion picture theaters. American, English, French, German, Italian, and other films are shown. American films are usually 6-12 months old, but are ordinarily presented in their original English-language version. Luxembourg City's cultural center is the Municipal Theater, which opened in April 1964. It offers opera, drama, symphonic concerts, and solo recitals and otherwise enriches the country's cultural life. In the winter, the Municipal Theater presents two series of plays, one in French and

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Cities of the World one in German, by excellent touring companies. Touring companies also perform operatic and ballet series each season. Luxembourg has an excellent philharmonic orchestra. Luxembourg's New Theater Club presents two or three plays in English during the season. The “Old Theater” on the Rue des Capucins has been revived and presents very interesting plays by professional and amateur actors. The French, Italian, and German cultural centers have interesting programs. Luxembourg City has a number of small nightclubs. In the summer, music may be found everywhere. Groups from all over Europe, Canada, and the U.S. perform in the Place d'Armes. Concerts are also held in the Municipal Thea t e r, t h e “ C e r c l e M u n i c i p a l ,” churches, and various other places in and around Luxembourg City. The annual Open Air Theater and Music Festival at Wiltz Castle in northern Luxembourg provides a well-rounded selection of musical events, theater, and ballet, as does the Echternach Festival. The U.S. Air Force bands have concerts several times a year. During 3 weeks in May, pilgrimages are made from all parts of the country to the Cathedral, culminating in a procession of the statue of “Our Lady of Luxembourg” through the city streets. The “Schueberfouer” comes to town at he end of August, following an almost unbroken tradition of over 450 years. this annual fair has all the usual attractions loved by children-bumper cars, carousels, shooting ranges-plus many temporary restaurants and two dance calls.

Social Activities An American Chamber of Commerce, an American Business association of Luxembourg, and an American Women's Club operate here. Small scouting groups are provided for both boys and girls. Luxembourg has an active AmericanLuxembourg Society.

OTHER CITIES CLERVAUX is a tourist center with 1,000 residents, 35 miles northwest of Diekirch in northern Luxembourg. This medieval town lies on the eastern bank of the Clerf River, in a colorful, twisting valley. Noteworthy buildings here include the Abbey of the Benedictines of St. Maurice, the Chapel of Notre Dame of Lorette, and the castle, built in the 10th century by Gerard of Clervaux. The castle was badly damaged during the Ardennes offensive o f Wo r l d Wa r I I , b u t i s b e i n g restored. Clervaux has several hotels, a youth-hostel, and official campgrounds. DIEKIRCH, a town of 5,000 in the west-central part of Luxembourg, near the border with West Germany, dates to 1260. A brewery is located here. DIFFERDANGE is 12 miles southwest of Luxembourg-Ville. With a population of 16,000, it is a center for the production of iron and steel. North of Differdange, near the Belgian border, is Pétange, with a population close to 12,000. DUDELANGE, on the French bord e r, 10 miles s ou th o f L u xembourg-Ville, has a population of about 14,000. It is an industrial commune that produces iron, steel, and aluminum. ECHTERNACH, an ancient town which was one of the earliest centers of Christianity in Europe, lies northeast of Luxembourg-Ville. St. Willibrord, an English Benedictine missionary, is buried in the abbey he founded here in 698. Each year on Whit Tuesday, a famous festival, La Procession Dansante, is held in Echternach. This small town of fewer than 5,000 residents figured in the Battle of the Bulge during World War II. ESCH-SUR-ALZETTE, an industrial center and rail junction, is located on the French border about 10 miles sout hwest of Luxembourg-Ville. The country’s second

largest city, with a population of 23,700, Esch-sur-Alzette is situated in a coal mining region, and manufactures iron, steel, cement, tar products, and fertilizer. Situated in northeastern Luxembourg, VIANDEN is the city were Vi c t o r H u g o ( 1 8 0 2 -1 8 8 5 ) , t h e French literary figure, spent his voluntary exile in 1871. The city is surrounded by magnificent landscape. There are modern campgrounds, pleasant hotels, and comfortable cottages, as well as a number of sports and leisure facilities. Vianden’s narrow, winding streets and its castle create a medieval atmosphere. Europe’s most powerful hydroelectric pumping-station is located here. Vianden’s population is about 1,500.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Luxembourg, located in Western Europe, is bordered by France, Germany, and Belgium. The country is 50 miles long and 36 miles wide, c o v e r i ng 99 9 s q u ar e m i l e s, o r slightly less than the area of Rhode Island. Geographically, the Grand Duchy is divided into two sections. The forested and hilly northern half of the country is a continuation of the Belgian Ardennes. In the south, the Lorraine Plateau extends from France, creating an open, rolling countryside with an average elevation of 1,000 feet. The Our, Sure, and Moselle Rivers flow north-south along the frontier between Luxembourg and Germany. Temperatures range from 5°F (15 °C) t o 90 °F ( 3 2°C ) , wi th a n annual mean temperature of 49°F (9°C). Summer temperatures average 60°F (15°C) and winters are mild with an average low of 29°F (1.7°C). July and August are the warmest months; May and June are 373

Luxembourg the sunniest; and January and February are the coldest months. Luxembourg has a climate much like that of the U.S. Pacific Northwestcool, temperate, and rainy. The northwesterly winds that traverse the western, lower portion of the Belgian Ardennes cause abundant clouds, fo g, and rain. Average annual rainfall is 30 inches; some rain falls 50% of the year.

Population The Grand Duchy has a population of approximately 440,000 (2000 est.). The densest population is in the industrial southwest region and around the capital city, with a population of 78,300. Of the entire population, 34% are aliens, most from other European countries (12% Portuguese). The European Union Institutions located here employ many citizens of the different member states. The native population is at least bilingual, often trilingual. Luxembourgish is the native language spoken in the m ajority of homes. German is the language of instruction beginning in first grade; French begins shortly thereafter as a foreign language. Luxembourgish and French are the official languages of the country. French is used in diplom a t i c e x c h a n g e s, i n d r a f t i n g decrees and legislation, and in the upper courts. Local newspapers are usually published in German, and German is used in the lower courts. French is the most common second language used in stores within the city, but German is often more useful in the n o r t h e r n p a r t o f t h e c o u n t r y. Luxembourgers invariably speak Luxembourgish among themselves. Related to the old Moselle Frankish language of Western Germany, Luxembourgish is basically a Germanic language enriched by French and Flemish words and expressions. This language is rarely written and varies from region to region. English is also taught in the schools. 374

Cities of the World While there is no state religion, Luxembourg is predominantly Roman Catholic. Protestant and Jewish communities also exist, and all faiths are welcome.

Public Institutions Luxembourg has a parliamentary form of government with a constitutional monarchy. Under the Constitution of 1868, as amended, the Grand Duke is the Chief of State. Executive power is exercised by the Grand Duke and the Council of Government (Cabinet), which consists of a dozen members led by the President of the Government (Prime Minister). The Prime Minister is the leader of the political party or coalition of parties that has the most seats in the Parliament. Legislative power is vested in the C h a m b e r o f D e pu t i e s, e l ec t e d directly to 5-year terms. A second body, the Council of State, exercises some of the functions of an upper house, but can be overridden by the Chamber of Deputies. It is composed largely of ordinary citizens appointed in part by the Grand Duke, in part by the Council of Government. The law is codified, as in France and Belgium, and is a composite of local practice, legal tradition, and foreign systems (French, Belgian, and German). The apex of the judicial system is the Superior Court, whose judges are appointed by the Grand Duke. Under the Constitution of 1868, as amended, Luxembourg is a parliamentary democracy. A coalition of two of the three major parties-the Christian Social Party (CSV), the Socialist Party (LSAP), and the Democratic (or Liberal) Party (DP) have formed the government in recent years.

Arts, Science, and Education Over the ages, the cultural influences upon Luxembourg life have been extremely varied. Until the

19th century, Luxembourg was dominated by the various European powers: France, Spain, Prussia, Austria, and the Netherlands. The strongest influences have been those of its immediate neighbors: France, Belgium, and Germany. Luxembourg's technology is primarily German-influenced. While many Luxembourg engineering students train in Germany, others take higher education in Belgium or France. The French and, to a lesser degree, the Belgians, are the strongest cultural influences. However, Luxembourgers are appreciative of many other cultures as well, including those of Great Britain, Italy, and the U.S.

Commerce and Industry Luxembourg is aptly described in tourist literature as the “Green Heart of Europe.” The open rolling countryside is accentuated by Luxembourg's small but productive agricultural sector, which concentrates on animal husbandry. Its principal products are meat and dairy products. Vineyards along the Luxembourg side of the Moselle River annually produce almost 4 million gallons of high-quality dry white wine, almost half of which is consumed locally. Luxembourg's standard of living and per capita income are the highest in the European Union. The Grand Duchy's currency is linked to Belgium's, and the two countries share customs facilities and are partners in the Belgium-Luxembourg Economic Union (BLEU). The economy is stable and prosperous, enjoying modest growth, low inflation, and low unemployment (2.9%; 1999 est.). Steel production, financial services, and light industry are the primary sectors. The industrial sector, until recently dominated entirely by steel, is increasingly diversified. American investment has played a l a rg e r o l e. G o o d y e a r, D u Po n t , Guardian, General Motors, Commercial Intertech, and Delphi Auto-

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Cities of the World motive Systems are among the American firms with industrial facilities in Luxembourg. The financial sector's rapid growth over the past two decades has more than compensated for the long-term decline of the steel industry, which now contributes only 1.8% of GDP. S e r v i c e s, e s p e c i a l l y b a n k i n g, account for a growing proportion of the economy. Luxembourg's 210 banks now employ over 9 percent of the working population (20,557). Luxembourg's dependence on exports of goods and services has made it favorable to open borders and commercial activity generally. Most trade is with Luxembourg's immediate neighbors. The U.S. accounts for only 3% of Luxembourg's trade. Steel exports to the U.S. dominate our trade relations. Although the country usually registers a trade deficit, a surplus in earnings from financial services contributes a very large current account surplus. GDP growth in 1999 was 7.6%, the highest in recent years. Inflation was 1.4%. Unemployment, at 3.3%, remains the lowest in the European Union. Government finances are conservatively managed. Government budgets usually record surpluses. In order to prevent these surpluses from growing even larger, the government introduced tax cuts in both 1997 and 1998.

Transportation Automobiles Luxembourg has excellent paved highways and secondary roads. Driving in Luxembourg is on the right side of the road with “priority to the right” (the driver from the right normally has the right of way and exercises it). Rental cars are available through car rental agencies locally or at nearby U.S. military bases. Gasoline quality is comparable to American grades, with an occasional slightly

lower octane rating. Unleaded gasoline and diesel is commonly prov i d e d b y m o s t g a s s t a t io n s i n Luxembourg and neighboring countries. Many people prefer small American or European cars. However, no restrictions apply to the type of car brought into the country. Repairs and spare parts are not readily available for American automobiles in Luxembourg, and prices are higher than in the U.S. Some cars need minor modifications to pass a safety inspection required for all vehicles registered in Luxembourg. Regulations on tire tread are strict. Within 3 months of establishing residence, you must register your car in Luxembourg. Automobile registration costs about $45. A valid U.S. drivers license is sufficient for a tour of duty not exceeding 1 year. After 1 year, you must apply for a local driver's license. Before registration can be completed, the car must pass inspection by the Ministry of Transport. The law requires that all cars registered in Luxembourg be insured with a Luxembourg firm for third-party liability insurance. The insurance “green card” proves that your automobile insurance is valid in Europe and is obtained from the Luxembourg insurance company with which you have third-party liability coverage. The cost of third-party insurance is based on engine displacement. Local insurance companies' premiums are based on the value of your car when purchased, not the present value. Payment on claims, however, is based on the present value. A letter from your American (or present) insurance company stating that you have been driving “X” number of years without a claim against them, will cause the local insurance company to deduct 5% for each year (up to 45%) from the prices listed above on comprehensive insurance. Comprehensive insurance may be obtained outside

Luxembourg (i.e., Clements in Washington, USAA). The not-for-profit Automobile Club of Luxembourg provides travel information, maps, emergency, assistance, and many other services for a modest membership fee. With the purchase of a carnet d'assistance, members have access to services from automobile clubs throughout Europe and in North Africa. (Automobile Club, 54 Route de Longwy, L-8007 Helfenterbruck, Telephone: 45-00-45.)

Local In the city, buses are inexpensive. Schedules are geared to students as well as Luxembourg shopping and office hours. Taxicabs are plentiful. Taxis do not cruise the city; they must be phoned, but they come quickly.

Regional Luxembourg's central location is a definite advantage; all of Europe is easily accessible from Luxembourg. Paris is 4 hours away by car; Brussels 2 hours; Le Havre 10 hours; Frankfurt 4 hours; and Amsterdam 6 hours. Bus or rail connections can be made between Luxembourg City and most other towns in the Grand Duchy. The schedules, however, are primarily geared to workers and students. Trains stop at Luxembourg's Central Station en route to Paris, Brussels, Cologne, Amsterdam, Milan, and the south of France. First class, round-trip fares by train are as follows: Paris: FLux4,648, US$126 Bonn: FLux 3,852, US$104 Frankfurt: FLux 5,024, US$136 Amsterdam: FLux 4,900, US$132 Basel: FLux 4,172, US$113 Strasbourg: FLux 2,904, US$78 Brussels: FLux 1,995, US$54 Second class is generally clean and pleasant. A modern airport (Findel) is located only 4 miles outside Luxembourg City. The passenger terminal was opened in November 1975. 375

Luxembourg Luxembourg has daily air service to Brussels, Paris, London, Frankfurt, and Amsterdam. Other major European cities are also served but not by daily flights. Limited tourist flights are scheduled to most major vacation areas. Attractive package tours to some 30 destinations from Algarve to Zurich are offered by Luxair, the Grand Duchy's passenger airline. A wide variety of connecting flights to other points in Europe is available in Amsterdam, Paris, Brussels, London, and Frankfurt. Round-trip, economy fares by plane to various points of interest are as follows:

has daily television programs in French and German. In many areas, a large antenna is essential for reception. If your antenna is good, or, if you have subscribed to cable TV, you can receive three German channels, six French channels, Belgium's two French-language channels, and Radio T616 Luxembourg (when hooked up to cable TV; in addition, you can get several satellite programs, including some English-language channels). All channels are in color. An American TV, however, cannot be converted to receive Belgian,

Paris: FLux 15,700, US$424 Frankfurt: FLux 11,450, US$309 London: FLux 19,360, US$523 Nice: FLux 20,420, US$552 Palma: FLux 18,760, US$507 Vienna: FLux 31,390, US$848 Madrid: FLux 26,260, US$710 Rome: FLux 33,980, US$918

French, German, or Luxembourgish programs. It is recommended that newcomers to Luxembourg buy multisystem TV's and videorecorders (available at Bitburg, Spangdahlem and other bases) in order to enjoy all available channels and/ or programs in Luxembourg. Luxembourg does not tax owners of televisions and radios.

Communications

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

Telephone and Telegraph Telephone and telegraph service in Luxembourg is excellent. Telephone installation costs about $70. Calls within the Grand Duchy cost 5 francs for each 4 minutes. You can dial directly to subscribers in most Western European countries and in the U.S. A 3-minute person-to-person call from Luxembourg to New York costs $2.50. Telegraph or cable rates between Luxembourg and New York are FLux 1,900, including 40 words.

Radio and TV Radio reception in Luxembourg is adequate to receive stations throughout Western Europe, including the BBC, VOA and the American Forces Network from Germany. In some areas, however, an aerial may be necessary. Radio FM and television programs from Western Germany, Belgium, and France are received in Luxembourg. Radio Tele Luxembourg also 376

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The leading newspapers of Luxembourg are in German, with the exception of the French-language Republicain Lorraine, published in France. The main newsstands in Luxembourg carry a wide section of Europe newspapers as well as Fr e n ch , B e l g ia n , an d G e r ma n magazines. The International Herald Tribune is also available at local newsstands or by subscription. It is possible to obtain American magazines in Luxe m b o u r g, b u t t h e s e l e c t i o n i s limited. About 1,500 English and American books of the former USIS library have been donated to the National Library of Luxembourg. The University of Miami and the British Ladies Club maintain good reading libraries in Luxembourg. Some American books are sold in shops, but prices are high.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Medical and surgical attention in Luxembourg is good, although in view of the small community served, the depth of a coverage in some specialities might not be as great as, for instance, in the U.S. All Luxembourg physicians and surgeons receive their medical education abroad. Several local doctors, i n c l u d i n g p e d i a t r i c i a n s, h av e trained in the U.S. The hospitals, including maternity hospitals, are clean and well kept and are usually well staffed by Catholic nursing sisters. Competent dentists practice in Luxembourg, and Americans are usually satisfied with routine dental work done locally. As with medical care described above, there may be areas of special dentistry where the size of the community does not support the fullest facilities. Local ophthalmologists and opticians are dependable. Pharmacies in Luxembourg are well supplied with most general medicines.

Community Health Luxembourg enjoys a high standard of living. Public health standards compare well with those in the U.S. Sewage and garbage disposal are not a problem. The public water supply is potable.

Preventive Measures Prevalence of disease is comparable to that in the New England states, except for a slightly higher incidence of tuberculosis and respiratory diseases. Several outbreaks of typhoid, influenza, and infantile paralysis have occurred since World War II; none has assumed serious proportions, and statistics reflect a steady downward curve. The last recorded case of infantile paralysis was in 1963. Ordinary colds and bronchial coughs from the damp climate are the most common ailments. Humidity increases sinus

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Cities of the World trouble, rheumatism, arthritis, catarrh, and asthma. Pasteurized milk sold in cartons is considered. Glass-bottled or plastic bagged milk is pasteurized but does not meet U.S. sanitary standards. No special treatment is required for water or fresh vegetables. While potable, the local water supply is very hard. Many people drink mineral water or use a softener available at Bitburg or locally. In all new buildings and houses, a softener is automatically included at the input of water supply.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties Most travelers arrive by air via London, Brussels, Paris, or Frankfurt. Some flights into Luxembourg are via short stopovers, but you do not need large amounts of currency for the se cities. All airports have exchange facilities for changing small amounts of currency. Flying time from New York to Luxembourg is about 12 hours, including a stopover at an intermediate airport. Unaccompanied airfreight from the U.S. usually arrives within 7 days. Surface freight takes a minimum of 1 month. A passport is required. A visa is not required for American citizens for business or tourist stays of up to 90 days. For further information concerning entry requirements for Luxembourg, travelers can contact the Embassy of Luxembourg at 2200 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, Tel. (202) 2654171/72, or the Luxembourg consulates general in New York or San Francisco Americans living in or visiting Luxembourg are encouraged to register with the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Luxembourg to obtain updated information on travel and security within Luxem-

bourg. The U.S. Embassy is located at 22 Boulevard Emmanuel Servais in Luxembourg City, Tel: (352) 4601-23 or Fax: (352) 46-19-39. The Embassy website address is http:// www.amembassy.lu. For specific information concerning Luxembourg driver's permits, vehicle inspection, road tax and mandatory insurance, contact the L ux e mb ou r g Na t io na l Tou r i st Office in New York at 212-935-8888, or via the Internet at http:// www.visitluxembourg.com. For international driving permits, contact AAA or the American Automobile Touring Alliance at http:// www.aa.com

Pets No special formalities are observed in connection with the importation of pets, nor do any special rules or limits affecting clearance of particular items apply. Pets should be inoculated against rabies and should have had the parvo vaccine. Pet owners should obtain a Certificate of Good Health from their veterinarian before coming to Luxembourg. Upon arrival, dogs should be licensed in Luxembourg.

Firearms and Ammunition The following quantities and types of nona utomat ic firear ms an d ammunition may be brought to Luxembourg: Pistols and revolvers, 2; Rifles, 4; Shotguns, 4; Ammunition1,000 rounds.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the monetary unit Luxembourg is the Euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 Euro. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 1 0 0 , 2 0 0 a n d 5 0 0 e u r o s. T h e exchange rate approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US. The metric system is used f or weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Feb/Mar.. . . . . . . . .Shrove Monday* Feb/Mar.. . . . . . . . .Shrove Tuesday (Mardi Gras)* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Luxembourg Labor Day May/June. . . . . . . .Ascension Day* May/June. . . . . . . .Pentecost* May/June. . . . . . . .Pentecost (Whit) Monday* May/June (Tues after Pentecost) . . . . . . .St. Willobord Dancing Processsion in Echternach* June 23 . . . . . . . . .Grand Duke's Birthday Aug. 15. . . . . . . . . .Assumption Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .All Saints' Day Nov. 2 . . . . . . . . . . .All Souls' Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .St. Stephen’s Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: A great deal of bibliographic material on Luxembourg is available in English. In addition to Fodor and Blue Guides on Belgium and Luxembourg, many tourist pamphlets in English can be obtained from the Luxembourg Embassy in Washington or the Luxembourg Consulate General in New York. The good general books are “Living in Luxembourg” available from the American Women's Club, and “Luxembourg Yesterday and Today” by Joseph Petit, director of the Luxembourg Government Information Service. The latest edition of the “Political Handbook of the World,” published by the Council of Foreign Relations, contains a brief resume of useful 377

Luxembourg information on political affairs, party program and leaders, and the press of Luxembourg. Attic in Luxembourg, written in 1956 by Beryl Miles and published by John Murray, gives a great deal of historical and background information about the Grand Duchy and its customs and ceremonies. In French, a brief but excellent general study of Luxembourg is “Le Benelux,” published by the Editions Ode of Paris. Two books by Pierre

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Cities of the World Majerus of the Luxembourg Ministry of Foreign Affairs, “Manuel de Droit Constitutionnel et de Droit Administratif Luxembourgeois” and “Le Luxembourg Independant: Essai d'Histoire Politique Contemporaine et de Droit International Public,” are highly recommended for their scholarly excellence and useful historical information. “All the Best in Belgium and Luxembourg” by Sydney Clark (Dodd, 1956) is also recommended reading. “Le Luxembourg” edited by Charles Dessart, and

“Nature et Tourisme an Luxembourg,” published by the Touring Club Luxembourgeois, present pictorial evidence of the Grand Duchy's scenic and historical attractions. Finally, “Le Luxembourg: Livre du Centenaire,” originally published in 1939 under the auspices of the Luxembourg Government and subsequently updated, is an exhaustive analysis of every aspect of life in Luxembourg, past and present.

MACEDONIA The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia

Major Cities: Skopje, Ohrid Other Cities: Bitola, Kumanovu, Prilep

INTRODUCTION On November 20, 1991, MACEDONIA declared its independence from Yugoslavia. This declaration of independence was met with widespread anger by Macedonia’s neighbors, particularly Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Serbia. Nationalist elements within these countries claim that residents in Macedonia belonged, by virtue of language and culture, to one or all of their neighbors and should not have formed an independent nation. Protests against Macedonian independen ce beca me part icu lar ly strong in Greece because the northernmost province of Greece is also called Macedonia. The Greeks claimed that they would not accept Macedonia’s independence unless the country chose a different name. The United States and the European Union (EU) formally recognized Macedonia’s independence in 1994. In April 1993, Macedonia was admitted as a member of the United Nations. It is also a member of INTERPOL, EBRD, FAO, IMF, and UNESCO.

MAJOR CITIES Skopje The capital city of Macedonia, Skopje, is a thriving city of 582,000 people. Located on the Vardar River, the city was once the capital of ancient Serbia and for well over 500 years, from 1392 to 1913, was under Turkish rule. After a tragic earthquake destroyed or severely damaged 80 percent of the city in 1963, Skopje underwent extensive reconstruction, and now has the appearance of a very modern city, with new high-rise apartment buildings, factories, schools, and office buildings far outnumbering older structures. In contrast, the citizens of Skopje are mostly recent arrivals; the classic flow from rural to urban areas is visible here, where the population at the time of the earthquake was only about 160,000. The resulting mixture of a contemporary city environment inhabited by people still adjusting to the dynamic pace of modern urban life-styles make Skopje a fascinating study of contrasts and a challenging environment. Skopje is easily accessible via airplane, railway, and highway. An international airport located 14

miles (23 kilometers) southeast of Skopje handles international flights. Skopje is Macedonia’s commercial and industrial center. Several industries that produce glass, beer, bricks, tobacco, canned fruits and vegetables, and electrical goods are located in the city. Other industries include woodworking and leather processing. Skopje has no English-language schools, but there is a suitable boarding school in Thessaloníki (Greece). Local day-care centers for preschool children are available at nominal cost.

Recreation and Entertainment Macedonia has several good ski resorts within one to two hours’ drive from Skopje, and acceptable overnight lodging is available. Good-quality ski equipment can be bought locally at reasonable prices. Renting is undependable. The mountains and rivers of Macedonia offer extensive opportunities for climbing, camping, and hiking, but overnight camping is allowed only in designated areas. 379

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Cory Langley. Reproduced by permission.

Hillside homes in Macedonia

Hunting and fishing are widely available, although moderately expensive. A hunter must join a local club. Rifles and shotguns may be imported only by specia permit, and guns should be separately packed and listed for easier customs clearance. Shotgun ammunition is locally available; rifle ammunition must be brought from the U.S. Skopje has a tennis club with clay courts. There also is an indoor swimming pool of acceptable quality and an outdoor pool (summer only) of marginal quality. Facilities are available in winter for ice skating and sledding, and for basketball and soccer, although the courts and fields are fairly crowded. The city has a zoo, several interesting museums, and a large park. Travel to Greece and Bulgaria is convenient, and more extensive tours to other parts of Europe are possible at greater expense. The 380

Adriatic coast is one hour by air or a tiring, but scenic, ten hours by car. The numerous movie theaters in Skopje often show American films with subtitles in Serbo-Croatian. An opera company, two theater groups, a ballet company, and a philharmonic orchestra are based here. North and south of Skopje, it is possible to view vestiges of Macedonia’s ancient past. Approximately four miles (seven kilometers) south of the city is the Church of Sveti Pantelejmon. This church, constructed in the 12th century, offers beautiful frescoes and breathtaking views of Skopje and the surrounding countryside. Another church, the Markov Manastir, is situated 11 miles (17 kilometers) south of Skopje and is filled with many exquisite 14th century frescoes. Other 13th and 14th century frescoes, many of them quite beautiful, can be viewed at the Manastir Sveti

Nikita (Monastery of St. Nicholas). This monastery is located nine miles (15 kilometers) north of Skopje and is easily accessible by car.

Ohrid Situated in southwest Macedonia beside picturesque Lake Ohrid is the city of Ohrid. Ohrid is Macedonia’s major resort area and tourist center. Tourists flock to Ohrid’s Ulica Samuilova, which is the city’s main street, in search of copper coffee sets, native jewelry, and rustic pottery. However, most visitors come to Ohrid to view the city’s many medieval churches. Ohrid’s oldest surviving church is the Church of St. Sophia. Constructed in the 11th century, the church has many exquisite frescoes. When the Turks took control of Ohrid in the late 14th century, the Church of St. Sophia was turned into a mosque and its frescoes covered with whitewash. The frescoes were uncovered during excavation work in the 1950s

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Cities of the World and, because of their protective coat of whitewash, were remarkably preserved. These religious frescoes, along with St. Sophia’s many fine examples of Byzantine art, are popular tourist attractions. Another church, the Church of St. Clement, was built in Ohrid during the late 13th century. During the Turkish occupation of Macedonia, the Church of St. Clement was the only church allowed to hold Christian services. Therefore, it became a repository for many works of religious art, frescoes, and beautiful icons framed in silver. All of these treasures can be viewed by visitors. Other frescoes and icons can be seen at the 13th century Church of Sveti Jovan-Kaneo (St. John the Divine at Kaneo), which is nestled on a lovely hilltop overlooking Lake Ohrid. It is also possible to view the remains of the Church of St. Pantelelmon. This church, built by St. Clement, was the site of the first Slavic university. It was destroyed by the Turks in the late 17th century and a mosque, the Imaret Mosque, was built in its place. In addition to tourism, many agricultural crops are grown near the city. Abundant supplies of fish in Lake Ohrid has led to the emergence of a thriving fishing industry. Ohrid had a population of roughly 47,000 in 2002.

OTHER CITIES BITOLA is Macedonia’s southernmost city. Located close to Macedonia’s border with Greece, the city was founded by Slavic settlers in 1014. Under Turkish rule (1383– 1913), Bitola became a thriving commercial, trading, and religious center. By the mid-seventeenth century, the city had over 70 mosques, many shops, and several commercial houses. Today, Bitola has a population of approximately 84,000 and is an important industrial center. Industries in the city manufacture carpets, textiles, and rubber products. Bitola’s main attraction is the ruins of the ancient town of Heraclea Lyncestis, which is located two

m i l es ( t h r ee k i lo m e t e r s) f r o m Bitola. Founded in the 4th century B. C. , H e r a c l e a o f f e r s v i s i t o r s glimpses of well-preserved Roman baths, a large basilica filled with beautiful mosaics, an amphitheater, and wonderful examples of late classical and early Byzantine art. The city of KUMANOVU is located in northern Macedonia. Located 15 miles (24 kilometers) northeast of Skopje, Kumanovu is an industrial center for canning and tobacco processing. The economy of this city of 78,000 is also heavily dependent on the trading of cattle, fruits, and liquor. The Staro Nagoricane Monastery, with its beautiful frescoes, is a popular destination for visitors. The monastery is located approximately eight miles (13 kilometers) east of Kumanovu. The city of PRILEP is located 47 miles (76 kilometers) south of Skopje. During the 14th century, Prilep was an important commercial and political center. Vestiges of Prilep’s medieval past include the monastery of Archangel Michael, the Church of St. Dimitri, and St. Nikola’s Church. Constructed in 1299, St. Nikola’s contains many beautiful religious frescoes. Today, Prilep is an agricultural center for tobacco and fruit grown near the city. Prilep’s population in 2002 was approximately 56,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate T h e R e p u b l i c o f M a c e do n i a i s roughly rectangular in shape and occupies an area of 9,928 square miles (25,713 square kilometers), which is slightly larger than Vermont. Macedonia is a landlocked country surrounded on the north by Serbia, on the south by Greece, on the west by Albania, and on the east by Bulgaria. The terrain of Macedonia is rather hilly, with deep basins and valleys. Macedonia has

three large lakes, Lake Prespa, Lake Doiran, and Lake Ohrid. Lake Ohrid, which is nine miles (15 kilometers) wide and 938 feet deep, is the largest of the three lakes. Macedonia’s major river is the Vardar. The Vardar River flows across Macedonia from northwest to southeast and eventually flows through Greece into the Aegean Sea. Macedonia is prone to earthquakes and has experienced several devastating earthquakes throughout history. The climate of Macedonia is varied. Winters tend to be cold with heavy snowfall while summers and autumns are hot and dry.

Population In July 2001, Macedonia had an estimated population of 2,046,000. Approximately 67 percent of the population are Macedonian. Albanians make up 23 percent of the population and are Macedonia’s largest minority group. Most Albanians live in close communities along Macedonia’s northwestern border with Albania. Ethnic Turks and Serbs make up four percent and two percent of the population r e s p e c t i v e l y. R o m a ( G y p s i e s ) account for 2 percent and other groups 2 percent. The official language of Macedonia is Macedonian, which is similar to Bulgarian. However, the republic’s sizeable Albanian population usually speaks Albanian. Other languages spoken in Macedonia include Turkish and Serbo-Croatian. Macedonia is a land where several religions are represented. Approximately 67 percent of Macedonians are Eastern Orthodox, while 30 percent are Muslim. Macedonia’s Albanian minority is overwhelmingly Muslim, although some are adherents of Roman Catholicism. Other minorities, such as the Turks, are also Muslim. Roman Catholics, Protestants, and others account for the remainder. 381

Macedonia

Cities of the World Albanian-dominated regions of Macedonia. Frustration over the failure to obtain world recognition of Macedonia’s independence had taken its toll on the government. On July 7, 1992, Macedonia’s entire government resigned over its failure to convince other countries to unconditionally recognize Macedonian independence. Prime Minister Kjusev formed a new government on August 23, 1992. Macedonia was admitted to the United Nations in 1993. The current president is Boris Trajkoviski, and Ljupco Georgievski is the country’s premier.

Church in Skopje, Macedonia

In 2001, life expectancy in Macedonia was approximately 72 years for males, 76 years for females.

Government Macedonia is in the process of establishing a democratic system of government after years of Communist rule. In November and December 1990, elections for a multi-party, 120-seat National Assembly (Sobranje) were held in Macedonia. Results of the election showed that an alliance of two nationalist parties, the Movement for All-Macedonia Action (MAMA) and the Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization-Democratic Party for Macedonian National Unity (IMRODPMNU), had captured 37 seats. The Social Democratic Alliance of Macedonia (SDAM), which consists of former Communists, came in second with 31 seats. The Party for Democratic Prosperity (PDP), which represents Macedonia’s powerful Albanian minority, garnered 25 seats. The Alliance of Reform Forces (ARF) took 19 seats. The rest of the seats in the Sobranje were captured by several small opposition parties. On January 27, 1991, members of the Sobranje elected Kiro Gligorov as State President of Macedonia. Also, on March 23, 1991, the 382

© Vanni Archive/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Sobranje chose a new prime minister, Nikola Kjusev, and authorized him to create a new government. In 1991, Macedonia’s government took several major steps toward independence from the former Yugoslavia. On January 25, the Sobranje stated that Macedonia was a sovereign state with a right to self-determination. On September 8, Macedonians were asked by their government to vote on a referendum declaring Macedonian independence from Yugoslavia. At least 75 percent of the voters in the referendum had cast ballots in favor of secession. Albanian voters, fearful that an independent Macedonia would lead to widespread discrimination against the Albanian community, boycotted the election. On November 17, 1991, the Sobranje approved a new constitution that formally declared independence from Yugoslavia. Throughout 1992, Macedonia’s status remained unsettled. Although Macedonia was no longer viewed as a member of Yugoslavia, neither was it seen as an independent nation in its own right. The government was also faced with growing opposition from Macedonia’s large Albanian m i n o r i t y, which demanded political autonomy over

Commerce and Industry Macedonia was one of the poorest of the six republics in the former Yugoslavia. The economy of Macedonia is dependent upon agriculture, but has had growth recently in service and industry sectors. Agriculture provides 12 percent of Macedonia’s gross domestic product (GDP). Principal crops are rice, tobacco, wheat, corn, millet, citrus fruit, vegetables, and sesame. Industrial capacity in Macedonia is centered in Skopje and is growing. Most industrial production is limited to the manufacturing of wood products, tobacco, and textiles. Macedonia is rich in minerals, particularly metallic chromium, lead, zinc, coal, and ferro-nickel. Metallurgy is a major industrial activity. Privatization of companies has helped the GDP and reserves rise. Political turmoil, both internally and in the region as a whole, has hampered Macedonia’s economic development. Macedonia’s geographical isolation, technological backwardness, and political instability placed it far down the list of countries of interest to Western investors. In 1994, United Nations sanctions against neighboring Serbia and Montenegro and a blockade by Greece cost the Macedonian economy an estimated $2 billion. After pressure from the European Union, Greece lifted its embargo in

Macedonia

Cities of the World 1995. In recent years, however, strong internal commitments to reform and free trade have helped bolster the country’s economic development.

There are both state- and privatelyowned radio and television stations. Macedonia’s main broadcasting organization, Radio-Television Skopje, transmits in Macedonian, Albanian, and Turkish.

Transportation Highways link Skopje with Ohrid and the Serbian capital of Belgrade. Macedonia’s highways are in good condition. Train service within Macedonia is inadequate. However, international train travel from Skopje to Athens, Greece and Belgrade, Serbia is fairly good. Macedonia has sixteen airports. The largest airport, located 14 miles (23 kilometers) southeast of Skopje, handles international flights. A smaller airport is situated six miles (10 kilometers) north of Ohrid. Available flights between cities within Macedonia are very limited.

Communications Telephone communication is available in Macedonia, although somewhat limited in remote areas. In 1997, there were approximately 408,000 telephones in Macedonia. There are no English-language newspapers in Macedonia. All newspapers are published in Macedonian and Albanian.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS The Department of State advises travelers to Macedonia that political and economic changes in the region make travel there difficult and potentially dangerous, and recommends that travelers defer their visit. Those entering or leaving Macedonia by its land border with Greece may experience delays. Delays may also be experienced at the Serbian-Macedonian border, especially by Americans of ethnic Albanian descent. Periodic closings of the border with Kosovo have occurred with little or no prior notice. The overall level of violence has diminished, but armed interethnic disputes continue. Travelers should be aware of the threat of landmines, bombings, and violent demonstrations. U.S. citizens are urged to register with the U.S. Embassy in Skopje located at Ilindenska bb, 91000; telephone: (389)(2) 116-180.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan. 7 . . . . . . . . . . .Christmas (Orthodox) April/May . . . . . . .Easter* May 1-2 . . . . . . . . .Labor Day Aug. 2. . . . . . . . . . .Day of the Ilinden Uprising Sept. 8 . . . . . . . . . .Independence Day Oct. 11 . . . . . . . . . .Veteran’s Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Borza, Eugene N. In the Shadow of O ly m p u s : Th e E m e r g e n c e o f Macedon. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1992. Hammond, Nicholas G. The Macedonian State: The Origins, Institutions, & History. New York: Oxford University Press, 1990. Hammond, Nicholas G. Miracle That Was Macedonia. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991. Yugoslavia. New York: Prentice Hall General Reference & Travel, 1991.

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Valletta, Malta

MALTA Republic of Malta

Major City: Valletta Other Cities: Birkirkara, Floriana, Mdina, Sliema, Victoria

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated November 1994. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION MALTA, whose first known inhabitants were the Phoenicians, is the product of a long and fascinating past. Its story spans thousands of years, and is told in its archaeological and historical sites which range from Copper- and Bronze-Age temples, through Roman and early Christian settlements, to the 16thand 17th-century architecture of the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. This small nation is made up of islands and islets positioned in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. It is a true collage of cultures, existing in a setting where folk patterns of the past blend freely with modern life-styles.

Malta was ruled by foreigners for all of its history until it became an independent republic within the British Commonwealth in 1964.

MAJOR CITY Valletta The capital city of Valletta, a powerful naval base for the British Mediterranean fleet in the 19th century, is located on a peninsula with deep-water harbors on two sides and the open sea on the third. It is a major port of call and important center for ship repairs because of its position midway between Gibraltar and Port Said. The city is one mile long and several hundred yards wide. Its narrow streets are lined with buildings dating from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Pedestrians throng the streets during the day, and parking space inside the city is extremely limited. Modern office buildings are few, since new construction is restricted by the many national monuments that cannot be razed or radically altered. Valletta had an estimated population of 195,000 in 2002.

More than half of the 395,000 residents of the major island of Malta l i v e i n t h e c e n t r a l u r b a n Va l letta-Floriana-Sliema area, where nearly all major commercial firms and government offices are located. A number of British have retired here or have come to Malta to reside and invest in the island’s development. Thus, urban Malta has a British flavor and is strongly Britishoriented. Shops carry English and European goods of all types. Most tourists are British, but European and American visitors are increasing in number. The government has recently expanded its tourist programs, emphasizing the summer season. This capital city was named for Jean Parisot de la Valette, grand master of the Knights of St. John, who successfully withstood the infamous Turkish siege of 1565. Valletta (also correctly spelled Valetta) and its environs were so besieged in World War II that the area was given the dubious distinction of being the most heavily bombed spot in Europe. Twelve hundred separate raids by German and Italian aircraft damaged or destroyed the garrisons and as many as 3,500 surr o u n d i n g p r i v a t e h o m e s. T h e attacks began in June 1940 and lasted throughout the war. 385

Malta

Cities of the World Schools for Foreigners

Verdala International School, at Fort Pembroke, was set in 1976 by an international oil-exploration firm, but is now financially supported by another sponsor. This coeducational institution has an American and British curriculum and takes pupils from kindergarten to grade 12. French, Spanish, and Italian are offered; special programs include English as a Second Language, advanced placement and remedial aid. The school has an American headmaster and American teachers. Because the quality of high school education available on Malta does not reach American standards, many American parents prefer to have their high school aged children attend boarding schools, the nearest of which are in Rome. American history, government, and spelling are not taught in any Maltese schools, so this instruction must be given at home by American parents. Science programs in schools are adequate, but not advanced. Some states in the U.S. may not accept the British system of grade classification, which could create difficulties for students returning home.

Recreation Hiking in the rural areas of Malta, particularly the thinly populated north and northwest, can be pleasant and interesting. A number of picnic spots, many accessible only by foot, provide lovely sea vistas. Walking clubs tour the island on weekends. Malta has a mediumsized botanical garden.

Marsa Sports Club, which also have squash courts. Limited facilities exist for horseback riding. Water polo is a popular sport in summer. Soccer, the favorite Maltese spectator sport, is played year round, except during the hottest summer months. A surprising number of fine trotting horses are on the island. Trotting races start when the weather begins to cool in the fall, and continue until spring. Races are held on Sundays and holidays, and betting for small stakes is permitted. Fishing from small boats or from the shore may be readily undertaken. No facilities exist, however, for deep-sea fishing from chartered boats equipped with heavy gear. In winter, hunting (small birds) is popular with Maltese men, who use both net and gun. There are many sights to see. Perhaps most interesting are buildings from the period of the Knights, and prehistoric sites, several of which are still being excavated. Nonethel e s s, a w e e k o f c o n c e n t r a t e d sight-seeing would exhaust the principal attractions, including the most important architectural monuments and museums. Despite Malta’s relative proximity to a number of other Mediterranean ports (e.g., Greece), neither direct ship nor air service exists to points other than a few of the major cities of Europe and to Catania, Tunis, and Cairo. Therefore, travel to other areas in the Mediterranean basin must be via Italy.

Entertainment The waters around Malta are beautiful, with deep shades of turquoise and green. Swimming, sailing, windsurfing, and skin diving can be enjoyed six months of the year. Sailing activities are available through the Valletta Yacht Club. The one golf course is used throughout the winter. Tennis is played year round at the Union Club, Holiday Inn, and

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During winter, Malta offers many concerts, theater, and opera presentations. While such performances are not first class, some fine talent can be found among composers and performers alike. Most major American and foreign films eventually arrive in Malta, usually one to two years after their

premieres. All are censored by a government-appointed board, which includes a church representative. English-language films are shown in the original version; most other foreign films have English subtitles. Movie prices are low, but many cinemas are Spartan and ill-kept. The majority of movie theaters are neither air-conditioned nor heated. A government-licensed casino operates year round, offering roulette, blackjack, and chemin de fer (a variation of baccarat). In terms of local folklore, the village festa, held mostly between May and October, retains interest. Festas combine religious processions and ceremonies with elaborate street lighting, band parades, and fireworks displays. Similar celebrations take place during Mardi Gras season. The resident American community is comprised of a handful of diplomatic and business representatives and their families, perhaps 50 spouses and children of oil and aviation company employees working in North African and Middle Eastern countries, and about 500 Americans (almost all of Maltese origin) who have retired in the area. Because of the small size of the American community in Valletta, the American Women’s Club is the only U.S.-related social organization. It sponsors limited cultural and charitable activities. Many international and British charitable and philanthropic organizations have branches and/or active chapters on Malta. These include Rotary International, Lions, Round Table, St. John’s Ambulance Brigade, the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA), and the Playing Fields Association. Several Boy Scout troops are on the islands, but they are not fully accredited. Merit badges earned here are not entirely recognized in

Malta

Cities of the World

© Chris Hellier/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

View of Valletta, Malta

t h e U. S. G i r l G u i d e s a r e a l s o present in Malta. Three local clubs with some available memberships provide useful facilities and social contacts. The Union Club in Sliema has a bar and a restaurant open for lunch and dinner. This club holds weekly dances and a biweekly tombola, (similar to bingo), and has an active bridge group, four tennis courts, and two squash courts. The Marsa Sports Club, in the center of the island, has several athletic fields, 18 tennis courts, three squash courts, a swimming pool, and Malta’s only golf course. Marsa is surrounded by the island’s race (trotting) track. Membership fees at local clubs are low by U.S. standards. The Marsa Sports Club and Union Club jointly operate a May-to-October beach facility in Sliema (open

only to members). The Valletta Yacht Club on Manoel Island operates an informal bar and restaurant, mainly in the summertime. The National Tourist Organization is located on Harper Lane in Floriana.

OTHER CITIES BIRKIRKARA and QORMI are small towns within three miles of the capital. Their respective populations are approximately 22,000 and 18,000. FLORIANA is a suburb of Valletta, and the site of the Argotti Botanic Gardens. The U.S. Embassy also is located here.

MDINA, one of the oldest towns in Europe, lies just inland from Valletta. Walled on all sides, it is the Città Vecchia (Old City) which was the capital of Malta until 1570. It is also known as Notabile. Pre-Christian catacombs are found here, as are a 17th-century cathedral and the old palace of the Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta, or Knights Hospitalers. It was at this spot that the Knights, the celebrated military religious order of the Middle Ages, defended Malta against the Turks in 1565. SLIEMA, northwest across the bay from Valletta, is part of the capital city complex, although it stands as a town in its own right. The population is 12,000. VICTORIA is the capital and main community of Gozo Island (ancient

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Malta Gaulus). Its population is about 7,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Maltese Islands are a small archipelago of six islands and islets in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. Malta (95 square miles) is the largest island of the group, followed by Gozo (26 square miles) and Comino (one square mile). Cominotto, Filfla, and St. Paul’s are small uninhabited islets. The total area of Malta is approximately onetenth the size of Rhode Island. The longest distance on Malta is about 17 miles, from southeast to northwest; the widest part is nine miles in an east-west direction. The length and width of Gozo are nine miles and four-and-a-half miles, respectively. Gozo lies northwest of Malta across a narrow channel; Comino is in this channel. Malta’s shoreline is 85 miles; Gozo’s is 27 miles. Some of Malta’s and most of Gozo’s villages are situated on hilltops overlooking the terraced fields that characterize the islands. Northern Malta is a series of ridges, valleys, bays, and promontories. The western side is dominated by 800-foot-high cliffs. Shorelines are quite rocky, and few sandy beaches can be found. The islands are bare and rocky, with scattered fertile patches. Gozo has less high ground and more arable land than Malta, while Comino is almost completely barren. In summer, the landscape is brown and arid but, soon after the onset of the fall rains, the countryside becomes green. Malta lies 58 miles south of Sicily, near the center of the Mediterranean Sea, with Gibraltar 1,141

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Cities of the World miles to the west and Alexandria (Egypt) 944 miles to the east. Annual rainfall averages 19 to 22 inches, but may vary from 40 to less than 10 inches. Temperatures range from 35°F in winter to 95°F in summer. The climate is temperate. First rains come in September, are heaviest from November to January, and ease off slightly in February and March. Beginning in March, rainfall diminishes until it stops in May which, next to July, is the driest month. Summer is hot and dry with almost cloudless skies. The scirocco, a warm, humid, southeast wind, occurs in spring and from mid-September to mid-October. The gregale, a cold Greek wind, blows from the east and northeast in winter, sometimes reaching gale force. Winter is chilly to cold with occasional heavy downpours, but also has many fine days.

Population Malta is one of the world’s most densely inhabited countries. The total population of the Maltese Islands is approximately 395,000. Density is greater than 3,000 persons per square mile, compared to 55 per square mile in the U.S. A high percentage of Maltese live around Valletta and the harbor area. Neolithic settlements date to at least 5,000 B.C. The first known inhabitants to settle in Malta and Gozo were the Phoenicians, followed by the Carthaginians. Later came the Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spaniards, Italians, French and, the British. The present population derives from this amalgam. The Maltese remained a distinct ethnic group through the centuries, despite considerable intermarriage with the people who controlled the islands. Today’s Maltese language incorporates Italian and English words, but is more like Arabic than any other language; speakers of the

latter tongue can understand and be understood by the Maltese. Arabic influence is also somewhat apparent in the island’s architecture, folklore, and proverbs. Knowledge of English is widespread among urban dwellers, and many young educated adults, students, and the upper-class older generations also know Italian and French. However, Maltese is the lingua franca. Since the early 1930s, both Maltese and English have been taught in the schools. Maltese did not develop as a written language until the 20th century. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Italian was the language of the schools, law courts, and Maltese society. Despite the country’s small size, several variations of Maltese are spoken. Villagers at distant points on the islands use distinct idioms and pronunciation, and none speak the “pure” Maltese taught in the schools. The 1964 constitution established Roman Catholicism as the religion of the country, but also guaranteed freedom of worship. Religion is a required subject in all government schools. Traditionally, Malta is 98 percent Roman Catholic. Over 360 Roman Catholic churches are on the islands, more than one for every 1,000 Maltese. No other religion has gained ground among the people, but a significant decrease has occurred in the strict observance of religious duties by urban dwellers. However, in the villages and, to a slightly lesser extent in towns, the parish church remains the focal point of community life. The annual festa of each town or village parish, in honor of the patron saint on his or her name day, is still the most important day of the year for the inhabitants. The people contribute substantially for church and street decorations, lights, floats, and fireworks, all essential to local observance of this ostensibly religious event.

Malta

Cities of the World In the absence of local or regional government authority, the village church was, and still is, the people’s spokesman to secular authorities. The parish priest reads government notices from his pulpit, serves as legal adviser, banker, and letter writer for his parishioners, and retains his traditional role as the people’s “patron” or spokesman to the government. This role, however, is rapidly diminishing. More than 25 percent of Malta’s population lives in essentially rural areas. The urban Maltese resembles, in outlook and sophistication, other Europeans of the same educational background and employment level. However, the typical rural Maltese is a provincial person whose life centers around the village. Many older villagers have not visited Valletta for years. In fact, thousands of Maltese have never left the main island, even to visit Gozo. Italian, English, and American films and TV programs have had a great impact in broadening the Maltese viewpoint, but all cultural imports (films, TV programs, books, etc.) are subject to evaluation and control by a censorship board. Italian TV broadcasts, not subject to this censorship, have a large audience.

Government Malta’s location has for centuries given it political and military importance out of proportion to its size and natural resources. The islands have been occupied and ruled by alien peoples from ancient times until independence from the United Kingdom was granted in 1964. In recent history, the two longest and most significant periods of occupation were by the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem from 1530 (after their ejection from Rhodes by the Turks) to 1798, and by the British from 1814 to 1964.

The high point of the Knights’ rule was their victory in 1565 when they withstood a four-month siege by 30,000 Turkish troops. Aided by their strong fortifications, the divided command of the Turks, and their own determination, the Knights and their Maltese allies resisted so stoutly that the Turkish army left in humiliation. Almost equally famous was the prolonged and intense air bombing during World War II when Malta was the Mediterranean headquarters of the Royal Navy. The islands’ population and defenders were close to starvation when a relief convoy of four surviving ships reached them on August 15, 1942. The danger of starvation did not abate until the spring of 1943, when control of the Mediterranean passed to Allied hands. In April 1942, Malta was awarded the George Cross for “a heroism and devotion that will long be famous in history.” President Roosevelt also saluted Maltese heroism when he visited the islands on December 8, 1943. Malta, a self-governing republic, gained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1964 and became a republic in 1974. Malta’s parliamentary system is led by a prime minister. Parliament consists of a unicameral House of Representatives with 65 members, representing two parties—the Malta Labor Party and the Nationalist Party. The country has no local governments. The current president is Guido de Marco and Eddie Fenech Adami is the prime minister. The judiciary consists of nine judges who sit in the superior courts, and nine magistrates who sit in the inferior courts. The legislative and judicial systems closely follow British practices, but the judiciary also owes much to Roman law, French law and the Napoleonic Code, as well as to the Italian judicial system. Italian was, by default, the written language of government (including

the law courts) and the spoken language of society throughout the 19th century to the early 1930s. Precedent law of this period is all in Italian. Italian was commonly used by the elite of Maltese society until the 1940s, when Axis bombing raids rendered it politically unpopular. Since 1934, Maltese and English have been the official languages of government, including the legislature and courts. Government officials at all levels must have a minimum-tested level of competence in both languages. Malta is a member of the United Nations, World Health Organization (WHO), General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), and the Non-Aligned Movement, among other organizations. The flag of Malta consists of two equal vertical bands, white at the staff and red at the fly. A design of the George Cross, edged in red, is carried at the upper left corner of the white stripe.

Arts, Science, Education Malta’s opera house in Valletta, destroyed in World War II bombings, has not been rebuilt. The M a n o e l T h e a t e r, a c h a r m i n g 18th-century structure, is used for local and visiting cultural attractions. During the winter season, a number of orchestral, choral, and chamber music concerts are presented by visiting groups. The Malta Amateur Dramatic Club, Atturi Theater Group, and other drama companies present plays and musicals in English at the Manoel, the Deporres Arts Center, San Anton Gardens, and other locales in winter and spring. Malta has a number of architecturally interesting churches, mostly of the baroque or rococo periods. Other architectural classics are the fortifications of the “Three Cities,” built during the 16th century by the Order of St. John of Jerusalem; several 17th-century forts; and some

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Malta secular architecture (principally the Auberges) of Valletta, also built by the Knights of St. John. The old walled town of Mdina is lovely. Principal Maltese art collections are at St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, the Cathedral of Sts. Peter a n d Pa u l i n M d i n a , a n d t h e National Museum of Fine Arts and Grand Master’s Palace in Valletta. All four contain works of interest. Local branches of the Alliance-Française, Dante Alighieri Society, and German Maltese Circle (each affiliated with the embassy of its respective country) operate in Malta, and frequently sponsor concerts and other cultural events. Education in Malta has a long tradition of excellence, dating from the 16th century, when Jesuits founded an institution which developed into the University of Malta. During the British colonial period, English became the primary language of instruction, and the British educational system took root. The British system remains essentially intact, and English is still the major classroom language, but the system has been altered and the use of English has declined, especially in government schools. University intake has been increased by around 200 percent, and the work/study concept has been made optional. The work phase has been reduced from fiveand-one-half to two months during summer. The previous university entry requirements of sponsorship by an employer and Arabic language ability have been abolished. The points system which gave a 10 percent advantage to students coming from state schools over those applying from private schools has also been abolished. The study of liberal arts, basic sciences, and research has been reintroduced along with a traditional grading system. Some of the university professors who went overseas to work between 1977 and 1987 have 390

Cities of the World returned and resumed their faculty positions. English is the basic language of instruction in most private primary and secondary schools, and Maltese is the language of instruction in government schools at least up to the higher secondary level. Finding places for children in one of the private primary schools, virtually all of which are Catholic, is difficult. Demand far exceeds the number of places available, and entrance is determined principally by competitive examination. Placing foreign students in secondary private schools is somewhat less difficult. The literacy rate in Malta is approximately 89 percent.

Commerce and Industry For many centuries, Malta had a “fortress” economy dependent on various occupying powers for most of its national income. The country’s excellent harbors and strategic location made it an important naval base and bunkering station. Even after independence in 1964, Malta remained heavily dependent on employment with, and expenditures by, British forces on the islands. Loans and grants from the U.K. were also important. Since the mid-1960s, however, Malta has enjoyed impressive, broadly based, economic growth. Heavy foreign and domestic investment created a large number of new tourist facilities and export-oriented or import-substitution industries. The Maltese Government greatly expanded social services and certain basic infrastructures, and converted many ex-British service facilities to other uses. The former Royal Navy Dockyard became the Malta Drydocks and, with over 4,000 workers, remains the country’s largest industrial employer. By the time the U.K./ NATO Bases Agreement expired and the last British forces left the

islands (March 31, 1979), Malta’s economy had made a largely successful transition to civilian production and services. Malta lacks natural sources for energy, although there are possibilities for offshore oil and natural gas. The only natural resource is limestone. Agricultural and fisheries account for a little over four percent of Malta’s gross domestic product. The country’s requirements for foodstuffs, consumer goods, raw materials, and semi-manufactured goods for the export industries outpaced export growth. In recent years, The European Union and the U.S. have been Malta’s most important export markets. Manufactures comprise much of Malta’s export; the most significant these have been transistors, valves and clothing. Other significant exports include electrical machinery and equipment, printed matter, yarns and textiles, rubber products, beverages, tobacco, and food. Tourism has increased and is now a major source of income, accounting for approximately 40% of the GDP. About two-thirds of the tourists are from the U.K. Since independence, Malta’s income from tourism, investment income from abroad, substantial foreign aid, other transfers, and capital inflows have enabled the country to maintain, despite a widening trade deficit, an unbroken string of balance-of-payments surpluses. Foreign reserves have continued to grow, and Malta has one of the world’s highest non-OPEC reserve/ import ratios. Large aid donors include Italy, the People’s Republic of China, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the European Community (EC) and, through concessional oil sales which ended in mid-1980, Libya. The United States and Malta formed the Maltese-American Business Council in 1983 to promote commercial cooperation. The largest

Malta

Cities of the World U.S. manufacturing firm in Malta is V.F. (Malta) Ltd., formerly Bluebell (Wrangler jeans). Malta’s economic progress and continued growth is highly dependent on external factors. Privatization and economic restructuring are high priorities for the Labor administration. The Labor administration is also seeking to reduce public expenditures. The Malta Chamber of Commerce is located in Valletta at the Exchange Building on Republic Street, Kingsway.

Transportation Malta is 58 miles from the nearest point in Sicily and 180 miles from the closest point on the North African mainland. Regularly scheduled direct flights go to most destinations in Europe and North Africa— daily to Rome and London, and twice weekly to Paris, Munich, Brussels, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Lyon, Zurich, Catania, Tunis, Tripoli, and Cairo. Scheduled airlines operating from Malta include Air Malta (the national carrier), British Airways, Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, Lufthansa, Tunisavia (Tunisian), Air Algerie, Libyan Arab Airlines, Swissair, Aeroflot, and Balkan Air. Throughout the year, the Tirrenia Line sails round-trip from Malta to the Sicilian cities of Syracuse (Siracusa) and Catania, as well as to Reggio Calabria and Naples on the Italian mainland. The ship serving this route carries passenger cars. Ships on this line are far from luxurious, but are the only satisfactory way of traveling with private cars from Italy to Malta. In Malta, transportation is by private or rented car, taxi, or public bus. Paved roads, even to remote villages, are common, but their condition is less than satisfactory. Few roads have shoulders. Children, unlit horse-drawn carts or antique

motor-driven vehicles, and animals abound, both in villages and on the h i g h w a y s . I n s u m m e r, t o u r ist-driven cars add to the confusion, and minor accidents often occur. Traffic moves on the left. However, left-hand-drive cars are permitted, and an “LHD” emblem on the rear is not mandatory. Road signs along highways are frequently defaced or missing, and rarely indicate the right-of-way at intersections. Fortunately, driving speeds are relatively low because of the poor condition of most roads. Persons planning to arrive in Malta with a private car must have valid auto tags of some foreign country, proof of ownership, and auto insurance valid for driving in Malta. There is no vehicle inspection or published traffic code. Automobile repair is only fair, but usually costs far less than in the U.S. Parts are difficult to obtain. With an international insurance “green card,” valid for Malta, a car can be driven on a 90-day tourist certificate. During these 90 days, locally issued third-party insurance and Maltese license tags must be obtained. Public buses go to all parts of the main island, with one or more transfers needed to reach remote areas. Fares are low, but buses are crowded during morning and evening rush hours. Service on most lines stops early in the evening, or runs only infrequently after the evening rush. Use of public buses is not practical for evening social engagements. Some garages operate taxi services. Cabs must be called for, since they do not cruise looking for fares. Also, the fare should be negotiated in advance. Car rentals vary according to season, model, type of insurance, and individual garages.

Communications International phone service is available to Europe, parts of North Africa, and the U.S. Collect calls to the U.S. can be processed. International calls should be placed as early as possible. A direct-dialing service links Malta to the U.K., Italy, France, Germany, Switzerland, and Libya, at varying rates per second. Commercial cable service is available wor ldwide. Inte rnational postal service is adequate for letters, but inconvenient for outgoing packages because of customs formalities. Malta television uses the European PAL system, and unmodified sets cannot receive programs from TV Malta (TVM). Color transmission began in July 1981. About half of TVM programming is local and broadcast in Maltese. The rest, imported mainly from the U.S. and the U.K., is broadcast in English. Several Italian stations also can be received, and the previous evening’s American network news in English can be received via Italian TV stations each morning. A variety of periodicals are publis hed b o th in Mal tese a nd i n English. Many are affiliated with churches or political parties and have small circulations, parochial themes, and uneven journalism. International editions of Time and Newsweek are sold on newsstands the day after publication. British daily newspapers and weekly periodicals are usually available on newsstands the same afternoon as publication. The International Herald Tribune is available via airmail subscription.

Health Malta’s health-care system has a long history of high standards, but it has recently undergone drastic changes caused by the government’s efforts to establish a national health service. 391

Malta Some Maltese physicians resisted the government’s plan. All of those who contested the reforms were barred from hospital facilities and, as a result, have been limited to private practice without access to hosp i t a l s, o r h a v e l e f t M a l t a f o r positions in other countries. The government has obtained replacement doctors from India, Pakistan, Poland, Czechoslovakia, and Yugoslavia but, despite their presence, uncertainty about health care remains. Fortunately, a number of good general practitioners and specialists are available to the American community and can deal with most rout i n e h e a l t h p r o b l e m s. T h e s e physicians will make house calls. Foreign and Maltese doctors staff the g o v e r n m e n t ’s large, well-equipped, public facility, St. Luke’s Hospital, in Valletta, which is adequate for routine cases and emergencies. Currently, no private hospitals are in operation. For other than routine ailments, it is advisable to seek hospital care elsewhere. Dental care is generally good, and several dentists here have British and American experience. Common medicines, particularly of British origin, are usually available from local pharmacies. Those on long-term assignment who need special medications should have a six-month supply on hand. No unusual health hazards exist in Malta, but incoming visitors or personnel should be aware of some conditions. Tap water is chlorinated, but has a high saline content and, for cooking or ice cubes, must be filtered and boiled. Americans drink bottled water and other bottled beverages, which are readily available at moderate cost. Various filters can be bought locally, but they will neither remove biological contaminants from the water nor eliminate the high salt content. 392

Cities of the World During summer, unrefrigerated foods are a source of bacterial contamination leading to food poisoning. Special care must be taken in the treatment of fruits and vegetables which are to be eaten raw. Swimming and other water sports are major forms of recreation in Malta, and safety consciousness is essential, especially since there are n o l i f e g u a r d s a t t h e b e a c h e s. Malta’s strong summer sun and occasional violent offshore currents must be respected. Mosquitoes and sand fleas are common during the summer months and, although they are not dangerous except to those with particular allergies, their stings are bothersome. Repellents and ointments are desirable, but common American p r o d u c t s a r e n o t s o l d l o c a l l y. Black-light insect lamps, which attract and kill flying insects, can be bought. There is no government spraying or insect-control program. Winters are damp and windy, but Maltese homes do not have central heating. Precaution must be taken in the use of electric, bottled gas, or kerosene (called paraffin locally) space heaters. Regular TB screenings and routine immunizations for polio, diphtheria, tetanus, whooping cough, and measles are necessary. Illnesses contracted in Malta are those familiar in the U.S. (i.e., virus infections or the common cold). Prudent care and attention to good health practices are urged. Sanitation is good. Waste water is usually treated before being pumped into the sea. Sea water is clean and safe for swimming in most areas, except when stinging jellyfish are nearby. Due to the absence of heavy industry, air and water pollution, except for automotive exhaust and open burning of refuse, are not major problems. Trash collection is daily, except Sunday, in urban areas.

Clothing and Services Clothing available in Malta is mostly of English, Italian, or Maltese manufacture. Quality is mixed, and prices are high. Women’s styles usually follow the latest fads. The grade of children’s and men’s clothing is uneven. Good-quality English and European woolen material is sold at high prices, and many men’s tailors do good work. Some ready-made clothing is available, ranging from formal dinner attire to sportswear. Selection is both limited and expensive, making it wise to depend on local supply for emergencies only. Clothing for women in size 18 or larger is almost impossible to find. Some women either make their own clothes or have them made by the good local dressmakers. Others arrive in Malta with an adequate wardrobe, which they can later supplement on trips to the continent, or by the occasional use of a dressmaker. Hats and gloves are rarely seen, and women do not wear hosiery during the hot summer months. However, a certain decorum should be observed by both men and women for street wear. Shorts are worn for sports only. School children wear uniforms, but since children’s clothing is so expensive in Malta, many parents buy certain items at home rather than wait until arrival. For example, black leather slip-on or laced shoes, white athletic shoes, and long or short-sleeved white shirts/blouses are standard items in most school uniforms. Blazers, ties, and dresses or skirts must be bought locally. Evening clothes for men and women are essential on some occasions. Men’s formal wear may be rented if necessary. Long dinner dresses are worn for the most formal occasions, but short dresses also are appropriate. Hostesses are accustomed to

Malta

Cities of the World guests who wear fur jackets, stoles, or other covering throughout the evening. Since houses and buildings are heated below U.S. minimum standards in the winter season (home temperatures below 60°F are not unusual), sweaters, heavy slacks, and other warm items are essential. Some Americans living and working in Malta find thermal underwear useful. Summer clothes should be of lightweight cotton or cotton/synthetic fabrics for women, and of the lightest available suit materials for men. Children also need suitable cool fabrics during the hot Maltese summer. Toiletries, common medicines, and cosmetics sold locally are mainly English brands or English-manufactured American products. Imports of certain items, such as toothpaste and shampoo, are restricted. Variety is adequate for normal needs. Supplies commonly used for housekeeping, home repairs, etc., are sold but, without American-style supermarkets and department stores, it is often difficult to find exact needs. Quality and variety of some items (toilet tissue, paper towels, paper plates, and detergents) range from good to poor. Shoe repair is good and inexpensive. Dry cleaning facilities are uneven, and both laundries and cleaners are hard on clothes and do not iron or press well. Barbers and hairdressers do adequate work. Radio and TV repair services are fair, but parts for some makes, particularly American, are unavailable. Other types of electrical repairs range from fair to good. Generally speaking, community services in Malta are less adequate than those in the major cities of Western Europe.

Domestic Help Finding Maltese women for employment as domestics, whether full or part time, is difficult, and requires patience to acquire. Domestic jobs tend to be specialized, so a housekeeper may not be willing or competent to cook, and a cook may not be willing to clean. Employers are generally required to pay social security insurance for full-time help. It is difficult to find live-in help or people willing to work on Sundays. Malta has several catering firms that will provide the necessary number of workers needed for the type of entertaining that has been contracted for. Malta does not have American-style day care centers. There are parttime nursery schools for preschoolers, but a nanny would have to be employed for full-time day care.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Feb. 10 . . . . . . . . . St. Paul's Shipwreck Mar. 19 . . . . . . . . . St. Joseph’ Day Mar. 31 . . . . . . . . . Freedom Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Malta Labor Day June 7 . . . . . . . . . . Sette Giugno (Anniversary of 1919 Riot) June 29 . . . . . . . . . Sts. Peter and St. Paul Day Aug.15 . . . . . . . . . Feast of the Assumption Sept. 8. . . . . . . . . . Our Lady of Victories Sept. 21. . . . . . . . . Malta Independence Day Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Immaculate Conception Dec. 13 . . . . . . . . . Republic Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas *Variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Daily flights to Malta arrive from London and Rome, and most travelers from the U.S. use one of these routes. A passport is required, but no visa is necessary for a stay up to three months. Maltese visas are not required for official personnel and their dependents, regardless of the time period involved. No health papers are necessary. However, when a contagious disease reaches epidemic proportions in any part of the world, persons arriving from infected areas are subject to isolation and surveillance. The Maltese government permits cats or dogs to be imported into the islands under strict conditions. Local law requires that all firearms taken into Malta be licensed with the police department. Malta has over 360 Roman Catholic churches. Masses are usually held in Maltese, but some churches in Valletta offer masses in English. Several Anglican churches are found here, as are a Greek Orthodox and a Greek Catholic church. Services at Anglican churches are held in English. The time in Malta is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus one. Malta has its own currency. It adopted the decimal system in 1972. The Maltese lira (LUM) is the main unit; it is divided into 100 cents (c), and each cent into 10 mils (m). The American Express office in Valletta does not provide a full range of services. The metric system is used. Gasoline is sold by the liter, and weights and measures are in grams and centimeters.

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RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Eadie, Peter M. Malta and Gozo. New York: Norton, 1990. Kanzler, Peter. Practical Travel A to Z: Malta. Chatham, NY: Hayit Publishing USA, 1992. Malta. New York: Prentice-Hall General Reference and Travel, 1991. Malta Travel Guide. New York: Berlitz, latest editions.

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Cities of the World

MOLDOVA Republic of Moldova

Major City: Chisinau Other Cities: Beltsy, Bendery, Tiraspol

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Moldova. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Moldova is a picturesque country, all rolling green hills, whitewashed villages, placid lakes, and sunflower fields-with an old world charm that is hard to manufacture. It also has some of the best vineyards in Europe. It is densely populated, with numerous ethnic groups represented, but the majority are ethnic Romanians. The economy is heavily dependent on labor-intensive agriculture, and Moldova must import virtually 100% of its primary energy. Chisinau is a moderatesized city that has preserved much of its pre-Soviet character, with many low-rise, older structures and tree-shaded streets that have survived in the central city.

With its cultural ties to Russia, Romania, and Turkey, Moldova is something of an enigma. It has risen from the ruins of Soviet socialism to become a democratic republic split in two, one area controlled by the government and the other by separatist rebels loyal to Mother Russia. Unification with Romania, its closest neighbor, is an on again/ off again issue, and yet it has more in common with other former Soviet countries. The official language, Moldovan, is phonetically identical to Romanian, but school and university classes are all taught in Russian. Everything in Moldova has an equal and opposite reaction. Originally Moldova was part of the greater region of Moldavia. It lies directly between Russia and Romania and has always been the focal point for border disputes and expansionist policies. Prior to its tenuous unification, it had been overrun, split up, reunited, con quered, annexed, renamed, and taken back again many times over. It has been a long and bloody journey from the principality of Moldavia to the republic of Moldova, and it seems fitting that the flag includes a band of red signifying the blood spilled in defending the country. The region was made a focal point for the diaspora of Magyars, Slavs,

and Bulgarians spreading across Eastern Europe. By the beginning of the Middle Ages, Moldavia (as part of Romania) was already a potpourri of different races and cultures. In the mid-14th century, Moldavia was subsumed under the Ottoman empire, and it remained under Turkish suzerainty until 1711. In 1812 Turkey and Russia signed the Bucharest Treaty, which gave the eastern half of Moldavia to the Russians (renamed Bessarabia) and the rest of Moldavia and Wallachia to Romania. Bessarabia remained under Russian control until the 1918 Bolshevik Revolution, when it reunited with Romania as a protective measure. In 1939 the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact handed Bessarabia back to the U.S.S.R., which it renamed the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (M.S.S.R.). The area was reoccupied by Romanian forces between 1941 and 1944, when the Soviet authorities once again took control. With the collapse of Communism in the mid-1980s and Gorbachev's policies of glasnost and perestroika, reform followed, and finally, in 1991, Moldova declared its full independence.

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Unity and peaceful coexistence seem tenuous, as republicans struggle to keep all the pieces together and smooth over the contradictions of being part Romanian, part Russian, and wholly Moldovan.

MAJOR CITY Chisinau Chisinau, Moldova's capital, is located almost in the center of the country on the river Bik. The first written mention of Chisinau dates to the 14th century when the region was under Turkish domination. During WWII, extensive portions of Chisinau were destroyed. The postwar reconstruction includes many typical examples of Soviet architecture, but the older sections of town retain much of their charm. Despite the size of the city (approximately 800,000 people), Chisinau still has a small town feeling. There are numerous pastel-colored singleand two-story houses in the city proper, built by traders and merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries. With large trees lining almost all of the streets in the city center, Chisinau is one of the greenest cities on earth from April to October.

Utilities Electricity in Moldova is 220v, 50 cycle, AC. Items which depend on a stable supply of cycles (e.g., clock radios, answering machines with “date/time stamp” feature) to function correctly are not recommended: local 50 cycle current causes them to lose time every day. Bring 220v voltage stabilizers or surge protectors to protect sensitive, high fidelity, computers or similar equipment. A 110v computer with a voltage stabilizer or UPS will work through a transformer. Bring a good quality short wave radio that can run off 220v electricity as well as batteries. Bring a supply of European electrical adapters and wall plugs. 396

Food There are two Western-quality supermarkets in Chisinau: Green Hills and Fidesco. These supermarkets have a good Western-made selection of goods, sanitary refrigerated meats, packed fruits and vegetables and pasteurized dairy products. In spring and summer, fruits and vegetables are abundant in this agricultural country. Every visitor to Chisinau should experience the Central Market-it is the largest market in town for fresh meats, fruits, vegetables and dairy products. There are many smaller neighborhood markets. Most Moldovans have kitchen gardens, even in Chisinau. In season, you will learn what “vine-ripened” and “freshpicked” really mean. During summer, people eat lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, and Moldovans spend considerable time canning and preserving for winter months.Unfortunately, no one has found a way to preserve lettuce, which appears in the open markets briefly in early May. Occasionally, however, the supermarket Green Hills has lettuce in the winter. Beef, chicken and pork are available year round. The latter two meats are of excellent quality: beef usually requires a longer cooking time to become tender. Some food products that are not usually available in Moldova are: peanut butter, brown sugar, dry yeast, baking powder, good quality powder sugar, vanilla extract, unsweetened cocoa, and unsweetened baking chocolate. Chisinau's restaurants, small and large, are still short of international standards, but the scene is improving. One can have a good meal at very reasonable prices. Some restaurants accept credit cards but prefer to receive cash. Tips are generally not included in the bill, except for large parties. The standard tip is 10% or less. Reservations are recommended. Moldovan cooking is an interesting combination of Balkan, Romanian, Russian and Ukranian influences. Mamaliga (cornmeal, similar to polenta), feta

cheese, and the abundant seasonal fruits and vegetables are staple items. The cuisine is not spicy but uses liberal amounts of onions, peppers, and garlic. Upscale restaurants serve a more international Eastern European cuisine, rather than true Moldovan cooking. There are also Indian, Chinese, Turkish, Georgian, and even two MoldovanMexican restaurants. In summertime there is a wonderful explosion of sidewalk cafes with colorful Sprite and Coca-Cola umbrellas. McDonald's has one downtown and one drive-thru restaurant, with more planned.

Clothing Moldovans are quite fashion conscious, and enjoy getting dressed up for social events, although there are few true “black tie” events in Chisinau. For most formal receptions, a dark suit is the norm for men, and a long or short dress for women. It is a good idea to bring a lot of warm winter clothes, as many public (and private) buildings are only minimally heated during the winter months. Long down or wool coats are a must, as are sturdy waterproof snow boots, since the streets are icy and muddy throughout the winter. Also plan to bring lots of warm socks and gloves or mittens. Locally made fur hats are both fashionable and practical. Clothes are available in Chisinau although they are labeled in European sizes. Business clothes are of poor quality or are very expensive.

Supplies and Services Although Chisinau shops carry an ever-greater variety of items, do not rely solely on the local economy since supplies are erratic and the price/quality ratio is higher than in the U.S. The following items are available, although supply, quality and price fluctuate wildly: toiletries, cosmetics, medicines, first-aid items, tobacco products, laundry detergent and other basic home, recreational and entertainment supplies. A good basic rule is to decide how devoted you are to a specific brand or kind of product. The vast

Moldova

Cities of the World majority of generic items is available. Generally, basic supplies and services are expensive and irregularly available. Most repairs are hindered by a lack of spare parts. Barbers h o p s a r e, i n m o s t c a s es, s a t isfactory. Beauty salons offer a range of services from pedicures and manicures to hair and eyelash coloring. The variety of salon-quality products is limited. Therefore, if you use a specific brand of hair coloring and/or treatment products, you should purchase them where available. Good quality dry cleaning is available.

Domestic Help Good, reliable help is available, and English-speakers are becoming easier to find. Host country laws concerning payment and legal employment of local help are still vague and changing.

Religious Activities

study courses with their children. Enrollment (pre-K-8, at the QSI for the 1999-2000 school year was 22 students. There are several, excellent private pre-K and grammar schools with curriculums taught either in Romanian or Russian. Both the Romanian and Russian curriculums emphasize foreign language training, English being one of the most widely taught languages. A growing number of expatriate children are enrolled in local pre-K and kindergarten programs (kindergarten typically is extended through age six, with children starting grammar school at age seven). Presently, there are no high-school age, expatriate dependents attending school in Chisinau. University-level education in Moldova normally requires mastery of Russian or Romanian as a basic prerequisite.

Entertainment

Although most residents of Moldova are at least nominally Orthodox, Protestant churches have increased their activities in recent years with the increased religious freedom. Baptists, Seventh-day Adventists, the Church of Latter Day Saints, and other denominations hold services in churches around Chisinau a n d i n m a n y o t h e r a r e a s. A t present, there are no American congregations, nor are services conducted in English, al-though there are American Missionaries working with some of the Protestant churches. The Salvation Army has also begun activities in Chisinau. There is a small Roman Catholic community, with one Catholic Church in Chisinau. It holds services in Romanian, Russian, Polish, and German (sometimes during the same mass). There is one working synagogue in Chisinau for the Jewish community.

Like any other city, Chisinau has a charm and warmth all its own. Visitors can easily find some interesting activities in Chisinau. In the fall and winter the local opera and concert circuit comes alive. The quality of the performances is excellent. Chisinau's numerous music schools support and promote classical music. Concerts are held at the Organ Hall, the National Palace, the Philharmonic Hall, and the Theater of Opera and Ballet.

Education

The National Library of the Republic of Moldova carries primarily Russian and Romanian books but has a small selection of English- and other foreign-language books. There are several museums in town, including the Museum of Natural

QSI International School of Chisinau is an affiliate of Quality Schools International. All classes are taught in English and the school uses an American curriculum. Some expatriate families follow home-

There are two local movie theaters that meet Western standards: comfortable seating, surround sound, and large screens. The Patria theate r screens American movies dubbed over in Russian. The Odeon Theater screens American movies in English with Romanian subtitles. In addition there is a local club that shows films in English throughout the week.

History and Ethnography, the National History Museum, and the Pushkin Museum. (The famous Russian poet lived in Moldova 182023.) There are a new amusement park and a variety of circus shows in Chisinau. Chisinau has a city zoo. A new, outdoor swimming pool complex opened in June 1999. In the cold winter months the Fitness Club offers a first-class sauna, with dunking pool,and a trained massage therapist.

Social Activities The International Women's Club of Moldova sponsors activities and interest groups for its members. The Moldova-International Charity Association formed by expatriates, raises funds for Moldovan children. These two organizations sponsor several annual events that expatriates look forward to and attend: The October Charity Ball, the December Christmas Bazaar, and the March St. Patrick's Day Auction. Moldovans are generally curious to see h o w A m e r i c a n s l i v e, a n d w i l l respond to social invitations. They are generous hosts and appreciative guests, as Moldovans are willing to experiment with most foods. The music culture is very deep in Moldova and many people include the performance of music in an evening of dinner with guests.

OTHER CITIES The city of BELTSY is located in north central Moldova. Beltsy is the home of several major industries, among them wine making, sugar refining, and tobacco processing. Other industries in the city produce fur coats, machinery, and furniture. Beltsy has a population of approximately 162,000. BENDERY is one of Moldova’s oldest cities. Founded around the 2nd century B.C., the city is situated southeast of Kishinev on the Dniester River. Throughout history, Bendery has been attacked and occupied by various foreign powers. The city was totally destroyed dur397

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Cities of the World

ing World War II, but has been completely rebuilt. Bendery is a manufacturing center for textiles, electrical equipment, and food stuffs. Silk manufactured in Bendery is among the finest in the world. A 17th century Turkish fortress still stands in Bendery and is a reminder of the city’s ancient past. Bendery’s population is roughly 132,000. The city of TIRASPOL is located on the Dniester River just east of Bendery. Tiraspol was founded in 1795 and was incorporated into the Moldovian Soviet Socialist Republic in 1929. During World War II, the city was heavily damaged after a series of battles between the Soviet Union and Germany. The Soviets gained control of Tiraspol in 1944. Following the end of World War II, the city was rebuilt. Tiraspol is an industrial center noted for canning and wine making. Other industries in Tiraspol produce farm equipment, footwear, textiles, furniture, carpets, and electrical equipment. Tiraspol has a population of approximately 186,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Moldova encompasses what was until August 1991 the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic, and is located between Romania and Ukraine. Except for a small strip of land on the Danube River, the country is land-locked. Moldova is a relatively small country, about 300 km long and 100 km across, about the same size as Maryland. Its total land boundary is 1,389 km. Its total area is 33,700 square km. The land border with Romania is 939 km and with Ukraine 450 km. The area east of the Dniester (Nistru) river, along with the city of Bender west of the Dniester, is the breakaway and officially unrecognized Transnistrian Moldovan Republic, or Transnistria. Transnistria is not recognized by 398

Government buildings in Tiraspol, Moldova

Moldova, the U.S., or by any other country. Tiraspol is the capital of Transnistria. Moldova's total popula tion is 4 .4 milli on, of whom 80 0,000 li ve in Chisinau. The majority of the population lives in the countryside in villages organized around former state farms. Moldova's climate is mild in the winter and warm in the summerapproximately that of New York City. Winter temperatures are typically in the 20s (F) but occasionally fall below zero. Highs in the summer are typically in the 80s but can go as high as 100. There are four distinct seasons, with foliage on trees between April and October. The climate is semi-arid. The coun-

AP/Wide World Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

tryside is comprised mainly of gently rolling agricultural lands with a gradual slope south toward the Black Sea. Seventy percent of the soil is composed of the famous, fertile “Black Earth” (chernozim) in this region. Because of the clearing of land for agricultural cultivationespecially in the Soviet era for grape production-there are few forests or woodlands. There has been soil erosion due to farming methods. The effect in the cities is that occasional dust can blow up from the streets in gusts. Humidity in the summer can be high but mildew and insects are not significant factors. Moldova is sparse in natural mineral resources, with some lignite, phosphorites, and gypsum. Moldova has suffered with

Moldova

Cities of the World other countries in the region from serious environmental damage from the heavy use of agricultural chemicals, including pesticides banned in the West such as DDT. Substantial amounts of its soil and ground water are contaminated. Because of the extensive use of asbestos in construction, village and urban area soil may have, in some areas, high concentrations of asbestos mixed with the soil. The two principal rivers-the Prut on the west and Dniester in the east-are polluted. Untreated drinking water may have heavy metal contamination, as well as pollution from agricultural chemicals.

Population Moldova has approximately 4,400,000 inhabitants. It is the most densely inhabited of the former Soviet Union Republics. About 65 percent of the population is Moldovan (ethnic Romanian), 14 percent is Ukrainian, and 13 percent Russian. There are also small communities of Gagauz (Christian Turks) and Bulgarians, mostly in the south. Moldova is a largely agricultural country, with more than a third of the population employed in the agricultural sector and agroprocessing, including the production of wine and other alcoholic beverages (brandy, champagne), vegetables and fruits, sugar, grain, sunflower seeds and oil, cattle and pigs. The population in the countryside is largely ethnic Moldovan, with a number of Ukrainian villages, especially in the north. In the main cities, ethnic Russians and Ukrainians predominate. The state language is Moldovan (Romanian), although Russian is extensively used. Most of the population of Moldova is at least nominally Orthodox, and Moldova has preserved many Orthodox traditions, including colorful Easter celebrations and church festivals. Moldova has a proud tradition of hospitality, and is renowned for its wine, cognac and champagne. Many people, even in the city, make their own homemade wines and are eager to share them with visitors. Local

cuisine shows the mixture of cultures, with traditional Romanian, Ukrainian, Russian and Jewish foods popular. National dishes include mamaliga (similar to polenta), placinta (a pastry filled with cheese, potatoes, or cabbage), and sarmale (stuffed cabbage); Russian-style borscht and caviar are also favorites.

Public Institutions In June 1991, the Moldovan Supreme Soviet (parliament) announced the republic's sovereignty, and on 27 August 1991, declared the independence of the Republic of Moldova. After that, the forum revised the legislation and conducted multiparty elections. In the summer of 1994, the Republic of Moldova adopted a Constitution, dividing the power between an elected president, a prime minister and the parliament. In the summer of 1995 Moldova was admitted to several international organizations, including the Council of Europe-the first former Soviet republic to be admitted. Expanding its relations with the West, the Moldovan leadership, particularly the new Parliament, also preserves its ties with former Soviet Union republics. Parliamentary elections in March 1998 yielded 40 seats for communists (30% of the votes), while the centrist pro-presidential party received 24 seats (18% of the vote), and two center-right wing parties received 25 and 12 seats (26% of the vote). The center and center-right parties formed a coalition government, the first true coalition government in the former Soviet Union, with the communist bloc as the opposition. Two new governments have succeeded the center-right coalition. The transition was peaceful and democratic.

Arts, Science, and Education Chisinau has an active cultural life, e s p e c i a l l y i n c l a s s i c a l m u s i c, although the institutions have suffered from the economic difficulties of the country. During the season,

from mid-autumn to late spring, there are regular performances by the opera, ballet, national symphony, and smaller musical groups. The Organ Hall and the Philharmonic Hall are frequent venues for concerts by local ensembles and touring groups. In addition to classical music, traditional folk music is very popular; Moldovan ensembles such as Flueras and Lautari are well known throughout the former Soviet Union. The folk dance ensemble “Joc” is especially admired for its performances featuring traditional dances from throughout the region. Chisinau also has several theaters performing in Romanian and Russian. The Chekhov Theater performs classic Russian plays as well as some modern works and translations. The Eugene Ionescu Theater performs avant-garde and modern plays in Romanian. Several other theaters feature musicals, satirical plays or traditional favorites. A puppet theater in the center of town offers regular performances in Russian and Romanian, and the Circus hosts a wide variety of touring groups in addition to local performers. Moldova has a number of institutions of higher learning, including the State University and the Independent International University, plus several pedagogical institutes and polytechnical institutes. Moldova has a special interest in agricultural research, and the Academy of Science has a large number of highly qualified specialists in this area. English is now widely taught and increasingly used, especially among young people.

Commerce and Industry Moldova had relatively little of the Soviet military-industrial complex. Much of its industrial capacity was concentrated in light industry such as radioelectronics, clothing, and food processing. The industrial sector throughout Moldova has suffered from declining output, lack of investment, loss of markets, ineffi399

Moldova

Cities of the World

cient production, higher energy costs and new competition from Western producers. Many of the big enterprises have not been fully restructured. Industrial production continued to decline in 1999. Moldova's best export prospects for the future are agroindustry and production of wine and cognac, if these can be upgraded to assure consistent quality.

Transportation Automobiles Poor road conditions and aggressive local driving habits increase the possibility that a car will need service and/or repair during its stay in Moldova. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is desirable and advisable in this environment. A new former Soviet-made car can be purchased for from $3,000 to $8,000. Americans find the level of comfort and the quality of assembly to be below that of Western-made automobiles, but it is easier to get a former Soviet-made car repaired in Moldova than a Western-made car. It is not possible to export a former Soviet-made car to the U.S., as it w i l l n o t m e e t E PA s t a n d a r d s. Unleaded gasoline is available and new Western-style gas stations with minimarkets and car washes are b e c o m i n g com m o n t h rou g hou t Moldova. There is a rental car service in Chisinau (dispatcher speaks English). Cars with drivers are available for hire. Americans have rented Western cars for driving around town and for longer trips. The rental rate for a car and a driver is $25 per day. Vans with a driver can be rented for $50 per day.

Moldova has seen a proliferation of gas stations along the major roads.Travelers should expect long lines at the borders. If you are in a vehicle with diplomatic plates and are carrying a diplomatic passport, you may slowly make your way to the front of the line and receive expeditious processing through the border. Russian- or Romanian-language skills are useful in these situations.

Between the cities and the towns of Moldova, trains and buses are available at relatively reasonable prices. There are no internal air flights in Moldova.

Communications

Regional Air Moldova, Air Moldova International, Tyrolean Airlines, TAROM, Moldavian Airlines and Transaero serve Chisinau. The following major cities are served at least 3 days per week: Athens, Beirut, Bucharest, Budapest, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kiev, Moscow, Odessa, Paris, Tel Aviv, Vienna, and Warsaw. Americans can buy tickets in Chisinau for cash only: no travelers checks, credit cards, or other negotiable instruments. American travelers have also gone to Kiev and Bucharest via train. It is less expensive than a plane, but it is a long, difficult trip. There is no heat in the winter or ventilation in the summer. Some travelers have had problems with border police on the train from Kiev.

There is an extensive bus and minibus system, with low fares, but these are very crowded and uncomfortable. Expatriates seldom use public transport. A few Americans have encountered nonviolent theft on crowded buses.

Moldova and its neighbors have similar conditions for long-range driving. Moldova and all nearby countries use left-hand drive, have an extremely limited number of roads with more than two lanes, and have aggressive road police who often stop foreign cars. Carrying your diplomatic I.D. and/or your diplomatic passport at all times when driving is recommended, but especially when outside of Chisinau. In Moldova, the road police will usually not hinder any polite American diplomat carrying identification.

Taxis are available by telephone or on the main streets. Taxi stands

Travelers are advised to fill their tanks before they leave, although

Local

400

offer a blend of modern vehicles and decrepit older models, and the passenger does get to choose among them. Rates are reasonable. Most local cab drivers speak only Russian or Romanian. One telephone dispatch company aimed at expatriates does have an English-speaker dispatcher and drivers who speak at least some English. Some expatriates rely heavily on this company, which charges a flat rate, about $3 per trip.

Telephone and Telegraph Local telephone service is generally fair to good. Installation of new phones is possible but slow, as are repairs to existing lines. International calls to the U.S. and Europe can be placed via direct dial, and reception is generally good. Rates can vary between USD 1.50 to 3.00 per minute depending on the call. Overseas telegraph and Fax facilities, though available, are not always reliable. Cellular phone service is also available. The standard frequency is NMT analog. Cellular phones purchased in other countries, such as the U.S., can be used here but must be registered (cost is $300).

Radio and TV There are two AM radio stations broadcasting daily with more scheduled to start soon. Several FM stat i o n s a r e a l s o o p e r a t i n g. A l l broadcast a variety of music and programs in Romanian and Russian with some English-language music interspersed. To receive shortwave broadcasts, such as the VOA and BBC, you need a good shortwave radio. Moldova has one television station that broadcasts daily, mostly in the Romanian language. Moldova also receives two other stations, one from Bucharest in Romanian and the other from Moscow, in Russian. Shows cover the full range of local and international news plus sports, musical entertainment, locally produced plays, educational broadcasts, movies, and some American TV shows. Most programming is in Romanian or Russian with two or

Moldova

Cities of the World three movies and a few shorter programs shown weekly in English. TV is transmitted by the 625 PAL D/K European system, which can be picked up with a multisystem receiver. Some local electronics firms have opened, and multi-system televisions and VCR's are readily available. Moldova now has cable television. You can receive the above 3 stations plus 25 additional stations, 5 of which are in English, including CNN, EuroNews, and MTV HBO is available for an additional charge. A number of private and commercial video libraries in Moldova rent tapes. These are all VHS cassettes for use with 625 PAL system equipment. The stock is mostly actiontype and horror videos. All videos are in Russian. Bring a multisystem VHS videotape recorder and player if you want to rent from these collections.

Internet Local service providers are available. The speed and reliability of Email service is inconsistent due to the limitations of the telephone system.

Health and Medicine General Health Information Local pharmacies in Moldova carry Western and local medicine but only a few of the supplies are in English. Aspirin (made in the U.S.) is available in most pharmacies. Bring a good supply of any necessary prescriptions, including contraceptives. If you have a chronic ailment, bring a large supply of the required medication.

Community Health Weather and local sanitation can be a problem and aggravate certain health conditions. Garbage pick-up is often sporadic, but street sweeping is reliable, as is sewage disposal. Winter weather is hard because of fuel shortages, apartments and work sites often being irregularly heated. In winter, soot from burning wood and soft coal may aggravate sinus problems, asthma and aller-

gies. Dust from unpaved roads and construction may also aggravate these conditions. Drinking water and that used for cooking should be distilled, boiled, or filtered before using. After periods of disuse (about 8 hours), turn on taps and run water for a full 5 seconds prior to using for purifying. Running the water in such a way helps remove the lead that leaks out of the lead pipes found in most homes during periods of disuse. Bottled drinks are considered to be safe. Cholera has been identified in one of the suburban lakes near Chisinau and in some of Moldova's villages. Cholera can be prevented by treating drinking water and water used for cooking. In addition, fruits and vegetables should be well washed, peeled, or cooked. These tend to be inexpensive during the summer but prove to be expensive in the winter. AIDS and seropositive HIV have come to the forefront in Moldova as a public health problem, although there have been only about 20 cases registered. AIDS surveillance programs are being discussed in Moldova as well as programs for screening for HIV and Hepatitis B. Syphilis and tuberculosis are on the rise.

Preventive Measures All immunizations must be current upon arrival. One should have Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B, rabies, and meningitis inoculations. Children should have up-to-date DPT, MMR, and HIB vaccines. Bring blood-type records and immunization cards for all family members. Bring fluoride drops and vitamins with fluoride for s m a l l c h i l d r e n . R e s p i r a t o r y, orthopedic, or other disorders that prohibit climbing stairs should be considered before traveling to Moldova. In Moldova, usually one flight of stairs is required to enter a building, and once inside the building, stairs abound, with either no elevator or an occasionally nonfunctioning one. We s t e r n - q u a l i t y prescription glasses are available locally; however, it would be prudent to bring an extra pair of

glasses and/or a copy of your prescription.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties All flights to Moldova come into Chisinau airport, located roughly 6 miles (10 kilometers) from the city center. There are daily flights from Moscow, Budapest and Frankfurt, and several weekly flights from Paris, Bucharest, Vienna, and Warsaw, Prague and Bologna. Frankfurt is the most heavily used connection, with Budapest, Paris, and Vienna as good alternatives. Chisinau may be reached by land from, with a drive that is very scenic but tiring. The eastern Carpathian Mountains in Romania require slow driving, even in good weather. Some travelers have taken a picturesque route through northern Transylvania and Bukovina, crossing the Carpathians near the Romanian city Suceava. Others have taken a southern route, crossing the Carpathians south of the Romanian city Brasov. Travelers may note that maps show routes over the mountains between these two points. These mountain passes can be dangerous and should be avoided witho ut pri o r i nf o r mat ion o n r o ad conditions and weather. Many gas stations are available enroute. Gasoline in Moldova and Romania may be purchased with local currency. Full-service stations (with windshield washing and oil checks) are available mainly in large cities, so be sure that your vehicle is in good condition before traveling. Carry spare belts, etc., for small emergency repairs on the road. In general, fill up the tank before traveling. Winter driving on Moldovan roads is hazardous, and you will not find places to stop should the need arise. Do not drive to Chisinau in winter. Avoid driving in threatening or treacherous weather no matter how sturdy or well equipped your car is. Bring 401

Moldova nonperishable foods and soft drinks or bottled water for consumption on the road. The drive to Chisinau can be made from Budapest in two driving days. From the Greek or Turkish borders driving to Chisinau should take about 24 hours. Roads in Eastern Europe are two lane, and traffic is light to moderate by Western standards. Encountering slow moving trucks, tractors, tractor-trailer trucks, bicycles, motorcycles, and horse-drawn carts is not unusual. Allow ample time for these inconveniences. Be sure your Moldovan visa is in order before arriving at the border. Do not drive at night in Eastern Europe. The road and most vehicles are poorly lighted, and people and livestock are often in the middle of the road. Never drive fast and be alert to pedestrians (who fail, in most cases, to look before stepping out into traffic and other obstacles. In Moldova, pedestrians do not obey traffic signals, and the streets are dimly lit. Streets in Moldova are di m l y l i t . C a u t i o n i s s t r o n g l y advised for evening driving. Fog can be a problem in fall and winter. Highways can be slippery when wet and one must beware of dirt and mud left by farm vehicles. Become familiar with international road signs before driving into Moldova. Have available your car's registration papers and the internationally recognized “green card” third-party liability insurance. Obtain an international drivers license before arriving, which is available in the U.S. from the American Automobile Association. You must have a valid U.S. or foreign license and maintain its validity. Travel by car into Moldova from the West through the Albita-Leuseni crossing in Romania is the most convenient Romanian border crossing for international land traffic. Crossings by car at some other Moldovan-Romanian border posts are possible but are less convenient. A traveler should expect possible delays at immigration and customs 402

Cities of the World going in both directions at the Albita-Leuseni crossing. Travelers in cars should expect to be occasionally waved over by local police for routine inspections. Travelers driving by car into the Eastern region of the country Transnistria should expect to be stopped by Russian “Peacekeepers” and then by Transnistria border guards at the outskirts of Tighina (Bender) and when crossing over to the left bank driving toward Tiraspol. Depending upon where a traveler is driving in or around Transnistria, a car may be stopped by Transnistrian authorities, Russian forces, Moldovan police, or joint patrols consisting of two or three of the above. Discipline of forces in the security zone and at internal checkpoints in Transnistria is problematic at night. The city of Tighina (Bender) is in the security zone. International rail connections are possible from Bucharest, Moscow, and Kiev. However, staff who have used these routes have not reported favorably about the experience. Some travelers have been victims of theft.Carefully check routes and train changes (if any) before boarding. Bring plenty of food and snacks when traveling by car or train in Eastern Europe. Personal airfreight is sometimes slow in arriving, even from points in Western Europe or the U.S. (make allowance for at least 3 weeks). Bring as much as you can in your accompanied baggage, especially seasonal clothing, toiletries, and any special medications. Air Moldova will charge for hand baggage over 20 kilograms. If so, be sure to get a receipt. Have cases no larger than 28 inches (71 centimeters) high by 55 inches (140 centimeters) long by 43 inches (109 centimeters) wide. Larger cases will not fit into the cargo holds of some Air Moldova planes. Immunization records are not routinely checked. Have an international license plate issued by the country of sale for new cars pur-

chased in Europe. No special regulations restrict incoming baggage: use common sense, as incoming baggage may be X-rayed at the airport and a suspicious-looking item could cause problems. Visas are required of American citizens traveling to (or transiting) Moldova. All visas must be obtained in advance of arrival from a Moldovan Embassy or Consulate. Only those U.S. citizens who can provide evidence that they reside in a country in which Moldova has no Embassy or Consulate are permitted to obtain a tourist/business visa at the Chisinau airport. No invitation is necessary. Any person applying for a visa for a stay of more than three months must present a certificate showing that the individual is HIV negative. Only tests performed at designated clinics in Moldova are accepted. For more information on entry requirements, please contact the Moldovan Embassy, 2101 S. Street N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone: (202) 667-1130, (202) 667-1131, or (202) 667-1137, fax: (202) 667-1204, e-mail: [email protected]. All foreign citizens staying in Moldova for more three days or longer are required to register with local authorities at the Office of Visas and Registration. The place of registration (usually, a district police station) depends on where a visitor is staying in Moldova. Most hotels will register guests automatically. The Embassy encourages U.S. citizens to ask about registration when checking into a hotel. U.S. citizens not staying in a hotel are responsible for registering with authorities. To find out exactly where to register, a U.S. citizen may call the central Office for Visas and Registration at (373) (2) 21-30-78, and be prepared to give the address of the residence in Moldova. Under Moldovan law, those who fail to register with authorities may be required to appear in court and pay a fine. For more information on registering with Moldovan authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to call the C o n s u l a r s e c t i o n a t t h e U. S.

Moldova

Cities of the World Embassy in Chisinau (373) (2) 4083-00.

club is required of anyone who wishes to purchase a rifle.

Americans living in or visiting Moldova are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Chisinau and obtain updated information on travel and security within Moldova. The U.S. Embassy is located in Chisinau, Moldova, Strada Alexei Mateevici 103; telephone (373)(2) 23-37-72, after-hours telephone (373)(2) 2373-45.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Pets No regulations restrict importing cats and dogs. Before arrival, pet owners should ensure that their pets are properly immunized and t h a t t h e y h av e i m m u n i z a t i o n records (primarily rabies vaccine) and health certificate records, certified by a public health authority in the sending country. The health certificate should have been issued within 1 week prior to the animal's departure. Bring or ship any special needs such as worm medicine or particular food. Properly documented animals are cleared quickly through customs. Be sure all pet records are completely up-to-date before arrival. Since local veterinarians do not always have vaccines, make sure your pet has all needed shots before you come. If you anticipate a need for particular medicines, ship a supply or make arrangements with a veterinarian to send additional supplies. Chisinau has a large number of homeless cats and dogs that live on the streets. Pets (especially dogs) should only be allowed out of the homes when accompanied Another danger to domestic animals may be from rodent-control poison, which car be set out without notice around garbage areas, resulting in reports of accidents and poisoning.

Firearms and Ammunition There is one hunting club in Moldova. Presently membership in this

Since November 1993, the Moldovan currency has been the leu (plur a l , l e i , f r a c t i o n s, b a n i ) . It i s convertible on the current account, and trades at a market rate against any other market currency, though it is not a “hard” currency. Bank transfers can be made into Moldova and bank accounts in hard currency can be opened, but checking accounts are virtually unknown and personal checks are essentially nonnegotiable. Traveler, checks are accepted by at least one bank, but commissions for cashing them for hard currencies are high (for lei transactions, the normal commission is 2%) Credit cards are only slowly becoming accepted for purchases, so that Moldova remains largely a cash economy. This is in transition, and some ATMs have ever come on-line. By law, all payments it Moldova must be made in lei, not in dollars. Moldovan currency regulations stipulate that an incoming traveler may bring in any amount of foreign currency or travelers che ck s, but amounts must be stated in a declaration and a currency exchange declaration form (a loose piece of paper) is placed in the passport. Travelers should ensure this paper remains in the passport until departure from Moldova. When leaving Moldova, the traveler must show the same currency and checks as upon entry, or list any amount named in a certificate of exchange from the Moldovan National Bank. Moldovan authorities enforce this rule unpredictably. Moldovan authorities prohibit the import or export of Moldovan lei.

threat to foreigners. Car theft is a problem. Travel by car and in a group is relatively safe at night, but visitors are advised not to walk alone far from public places after dark.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan. 7 . . . . . . . . . . .Christmas (Orthodox) Mar. 8. . . . . . . . . . .International Women's Day Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Easter* Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day May 9 . . . . . . . . . . .Victory Day Aug. 27. . . . . . . . . .National Day Aug. 31. . . . . . . . . .Our Language Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published in this country. Dima, Nicolae. From Moldavia to Moldova. Fonseca, Isabel. Bury Me Standing: the Gypsies and Their Journey. New York: Vintage Press, 1995. Goma, Paul. My Childhood at the Gates of Unrest. Columbia, La.: Readers International, Inc., 1990. Horton, Nancy. Chisinau, Moldova: The Essential Guide. Chisinau: Lonely Peasant Publications, 1999.

Crime

King, Charles. The Moldovans: Romania, Russia, and the Politics of Culture. Stanford: Hoover Institution Press, 1999

Crime is a growing problem in Moldova and especially in the larger cities. The violent crime rate has been relatively low but is a growing

Sugar, Pete S. Southeastern Europe Under Ottoman Rule, 1354-1804. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1977.

Moldova is on the metric system.

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The Hague, Netherlands

THE NETHERLANDS Kingdom of the Netherlands

Major Cities: The Hague, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Haarlem, Leiden, Maastricht, Eindhoven, Groningen, Nijmegen

Other Cities: Alkmaar, Amersfoort, Apeldoorn, Arnhem, Breda, Bussum, Delft, Dordrecht, Enschede, Gouda, s’Hertogenbosch, Kinderdijk, Schiedam, Tilburg, Zaanstad, Zwolle

EDITOR’S NOTE

lands is not a country devoted to its past at the expense of its future.

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for The Netherlands. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

The Dutch are committed to a strong and modern Europe with continuing ties to the Atlantic Alliance. A tour in the Netherlands can mean challenging and interesting work that it puts Europe n on your doorstep. Throughout the Netherlands, more than 700 museums and numerous parks are filled with impressive works of past and contemporary artists. Theater, music, and sports fans will find ample opportunity to pursue their interests. Sightseers will find their pastime pleasant, popular, and inexpensive. Overall, the comfortable living conditions, the nearness of many interesting areas in Western Europe, and the friendliness of the Dutch make the Netherlands a desirable site. Most of the Dutch speak English. What John Adams said in 1782 about the Dutch loving America remains true.

INTRODUCTION In 1782, while posted to the Netherlands, John Adams wrote: “I love the People where I am. They have Faults but they have deep Wisdom and great Virtues and they love America and will be her everlasting Friend.” He was negotiating recognition for the U.S., financial support for the Revolution, and a bilateral Treaty of Amity and Commerce. The Netherlands was the second country after France-to recognize the U.S. as a sovereign-independent nation and is our longest continuous diplomatic partner. The two countries share a r e m a r k a bl e c o m m o n h e r i t ag e. Exploring the Dutch heritage is one of the pleasures of a posting to the Netherlands. However, the Nether-

MAJOR CITIES The Hague The Hague is the seat of the government, court, and parliament (States General), although Amsterdam is the capital. With more than a half-

million inhabitants, The Hague is the country's third largest city. It is attractive, clean, and well maintained with a relaxed-small city type of atmosphere. The city derives its name from the older and longer version, Gravenhage, meaning “The Count's (craven's) Hedge.” This hedge surrounded the original hunting lodge of Count Willem II of Holland. After 1248, he erected a stronghold of which the present “Hall of Knights” formed a part. It included the site of the present parliament buildings. These, together with the inner and outer courtyards and the “Hofvijver” (artificial lake), form the medieval heart of the town. A mile away is the Peace Palace, which houses the International Court of Justice and the Permanent Court of Arbitration. It was completed in 1913 from funds donated principally by the American steel millionaire, Andrew Carnegie. The Hague has no large industries, consequently industrial air pollution is slight. Many U.S. firms, including Exxon, Dow Chemical, Cargill, Sarah Lee/Douwe Egberts, and IBM are represented in The Hague-Rotterdam-Amsterdam area. As a result, the American community numbers in the hundreds. Some 75 foreign missions are also located in The Hague. Scheveningen, an adjacent beach area, attracts many tourists, particularly Germans, during the summer. The area is undergoing 405

The Netherlands a revitalization centered around a renovated century old hotel, The Kurhaus. This fine old hotel has a respected restaurant, and overlooks the sea.

Food Virtually any food item available in the U.S. can be found in the Netherlands. Supermarkets are popular and widely available in all Dutch cities. Neighborhood stores are small and specialize in certain types of goods. Fish, meat, fruits and vegetables, poultry, and groceries are sold in separate stores. Fresh vegetables and fruits are available in many areas from wagon or truck vendors or in open markets. Local foods are of high quality, and Dutch cheese, canned hams, beer, and chocolate have international reputations. Locally grown fresh vegetables are excellent. As a result of the many greenhouses in the Netherlands, a good selection is available year round and many are also imported. Standard varieties of fresh fruits are found year round as well, and frozen and canned vegetables and fruits are staples of Dutch life. Beef, pork, lamb, veal, and poultry are readily available. Cuts are different, but some butchers will prepare special cuts according to your specifications. Meat prices are higher than those in the U.S., but good quality eggs, fish, milk, and other dairy products are reasonably priced. Smoked and preserved fish, meats, ham, sausage, and bacon are popular. Coffee in the Netherlands is delicious, but of a different blend than American coffee. Excellent breads and rolls are delivered daily. Canned baby foods are available, though not of the same consistency or wide variety as American brands. Some American baby foods are sold in local stores, but prices are high. Pets are popular in the Netherlands and there are a wide variety of pet foods.

Cities of the World entire family. Northern Europe has hot summer days. The winters are damp and cold. Good rain gear is essential and available at reasonable prices on the local market. Local department stores and smaller shops carry a wide and attractive variety of European and A m e r i c a n c l o t h i n g. Fa b r i c s, especially woolens, are of excellent quality. Both clothing and fabrics, however, are expensive. Suits for both men and women can be made to order but are expensive. The military exchange at Schinnen is better priced but carries a limited variety and supply of clothing and shoes. The quality runs from average to poor. Often basic items are not in stock. The exchange does offer a tailoring concessionaire that makes good suits for both men and women at reasonable prices. Men: The Dutch tend to dress informally for work and recreation, but the usual attire for informal dinner parties, unless otherwise stated, is a business suit. Women: Because of the damp-chilly climate, suits are worn most of the year. Dresses or skirts, slacks, and blouses with sweaters are the normal daytime wear. Dressy suits and afternoon and cocktail dresses are worn at informal dinners, luncheons, teas, and receptions.Anything smaller than a women's dress size 10 or shoe size 6 is very difficult to find here. Northern European women are taller than their American counterparts and have wider feet. Since many European streets and sidewalks are paved with bricks or cobblestones, shoes with wider heels are more comfortable and safer. Children: Good children's clothing is available locally though not always in American-preferred styles or colors and at slightly higher prices. Jeans and running shoes are usually available at the military exchange. Mail order catalog buying is satisfactory.

Clothing The climate of the Netherlands requires a basic wardrobe of fall and winter-weight clothing for the 406

Supplies and Services Most household supplies, toiletries, cosmetics, home medicines, liquor,

and tobacco products can be found locally. Shoe repair, drycleaning, laundry, and automobile and electronic repair vary in quality but are good. Barbers and beauty shops are comparable in price and quality to American ones. Dry-cleaning is expensive.

Domestic Help Highly trained and specialized servants, such as cooks and butlers, are in short supply. However, with persistence, it is possible to find satisfactory domestic help. Because of high demand and limited supply, domestic help is expensive. If a servant is employed by a family for three or more days a week, the employer must buy Dutch health insurance for the employee. Extra help for entertaining is available, but not easy to find.

Religious Activities English language services are held in many places of worship in The Hague, including the American Protestant Church, the International Roman Catholic Parish of The Hague, the Church of the Latter-day Saints, St. John and St. Philip Episcopal Church and the Liberal Jewish Congregation. Some churches outside the Hague include St. James Anglican Church in Voorschoten, Trinity International Church in Wassenaar, and Scots International Church in Rotterdam. Many of the churches have active youth and women's groups, and religious education is offered by some. The American Protestant Church offers youngsters a summer school.

Education The American School of The Hague (ASH) offers a complete elementary, middle, and high school program headed by American principals. The school is a large modern airy structure located in the elegant suburb of Wassenaar, one of the loveliest areas of Greater The Hague. The American School of The Hague contains fully equipped classrooms, science laboratories, gyms, a theater, and playing fields. With the exception of native foreign language

The Netherlands

Cities of the World instructors, the faculty is almost entirely American trained and recruited from American school systems. Students are fairly evenly divided between Americans and non-Americans with a slight tilt towards non-Americans. Average class size is 15 students.

on the SAT exams than the U.S. national average and have been accepted, upon graduation, at many universities in the U.S. including the Ivy League. Approximately 95 percent each year go on to higher education with the majority attending 4-year universities worldwide.

Kindergarten or its equivalent is a prerequisite for entering first grade. The school is divided into three segments: kindergarten and grades 1 through 4 (elementary school); grades 5 through 8 (middle school); and grades 9 through 12 (high school). In the high school, a minimum schedule of six subjects is required each year. Required subjects include a full college preparatory program in English, history, and social studies, mathematics, science, foreign language, health, and physical education.

The American School of The Hague does provide limited services for students with learning disabilities, but students who cannot be mainstreamed in a regular classroom for at least 75% of the day will not be a c c e p t e d . W h e e l ch a i r s c a n b e accommodated in the current facilities. Parents whose children have learning or physical disabilities should provide full information to the school early so that an admission decision can be made. Computer skills are taught beginning in kindergarten. The nursery program is patterned after those found in private U.S. nursery schools. The session is a half-day and the size of the group is limited. To enroll, the child must be at least 3 years old. Only 1 year of kindergarten is reimbursable per child under U.S. Government education allowances. Bus transportation to and from school is available to all students.

The high school curriculum includes: English 14, Basic English, English as a Foreign Language, Journalism, French 15, Spanish 14, conversational Dutch, German 13, Latin, a full sequence of mathematics including calculus; Earth science, basic and general biology, chemistry, and physics; ancient and medieval history, modern European history, U.S. history, intellectual history, humanities, government, and economics; art, mechanical drawing, drama, photography, crafts, chorus, jazz band, concert band, instrumental lessons, typing, business educati o n , a n d h e a lt h a n d p hy s i ca l education. More than 10 advanced placement classes are offered. Honors classes are available in most subjects. The school is a testing center for the College Board and administers the following tests: Test of English as a Foreign Language (TOEFL), Preliminary Scholastic Aptitude Test (PSAT), Scholastic Aptitude Test (SAT), and Advanced Placement (AP) examinations for which university credit may be granted. The high school program permits its graduates to compete academically with students graduating from better schools in the U.S. The high school students consistently score higher

Special Educational Opportunities Some limited opportunities for university level education exist in The Hague area. In Leiden, a 10 minute train ride from The Hague, Webster University of Webster Groves, Missouri, has established one of its extended campuses. Fully accredited by the Commission on Higher Education of the North Central Association of Colleges and Schools, it offers B.A., M.A., and M.B.A. degrees. The emphasis is on business. An M.B.A. is also offered by Erasmus University in Rotterdam, an arm of the University of Rochester. Adults wishing to attend courses at Dutch universities, or to enroll as matriculating students, will need a good command of Dutch besides the necessary educational preparation. Other types of adult education are available in The Hague. Day and

evening art classes are offered at the Vrije Academic, where beginners are accepted by interview with the academy's director. Other institutions are also available for art students. Occasionally, the American School of The Hague offers evening courses in such subjects as European culture, calligraphy, computer skills, art, and languages. Instruction in most sports as well as gymnastics and all kinds of dance is available to both adults and children. A Dutch music conservatory, which is located in The Hague, houses a youth orchestra and provides good musical instruction for both adults and children.

Sports The Dutch are great lovers of sports, and nearly every Dutch family belongs to one sports club or another. Clubs usually focus on a single sport, but multisport clubswhere soccer, field hockey, racket sports and even golf are played-do exist. Part of each weekend is spent at the club playing, watching, or socializing. Sports are not part of the normal Dutch school curriculum so clubs are important to the Dutch youngster, and sports fields are busy every afternoon after school. These clubs are open to foreigners, and some American children play in Dutch leagues. American youngsters participate in sports organized by the American School and the American Baseball Foundation. The school offers intramural or interscholastic soccer, basketball, baseball, tennis, track and field cross-country, and volleyball to older children. The American Baseball Foundation offers opportunities for younger children and adults to participate in baseball, basketball, soccer, and flag football programs. The Foundation, a private organization with clubhouse and playing fields in the Wassenaar area, concentrates its efforts on providing practically the same extracurricular athletic environment that exists in the U.S. Its programs are well organized and an integral feature of American community life. The 407

The Netherlands Foundation also offers fields for adult sports. A softball league and organized volleyball exist.

areas for both children and adults. Fishing is popular here and licenses are easy to obtain.

Racket sports are popular in the Netherlands. Outdoor tennis courts are inexpensive, and several reasonably priced indoor tennis facilities exist. The city has adequate facilities for badminton but limited ones for squash. Racquetball also is played in a suburban indoor tennis center.

Local stores sell good sports equipment, including tennis shoes. Roller skates, scooters, and bicycles for adults and children, as well as many attractive toys for children of all ages, are available. Sporting goods are more expensive than in the U.S.

For golfers, the closest course is The Hague Country Club in Wassenaar, where a courtesy membership is available to Ambassadors. Private courses are expensive in the Netherlands, although open to all golfers with official handicaps. At least two public courses, with reasonable green fees are within an hour's drive of The Hague. Golfers should bring equipment to the Netherlands with them, since golf equipment is expensive. Scheveningen has an 18-lane, duckpin bowling alley with automatic pin setters. Rental shoes are available. If you have a bowling ball, bring it, since alley balls can be worn and chipped. An active bowling league exists. Cycling is a popular sport in the Netherlands, as are wind surfing and running. The land is flat, making cycling and running pleasant, and wind is always available for the surfer. An indoor/outdoor ice skating rink is open in The Hague from October to March, and inexpensive lessons can be arranged. Canals are seldom frozen long enough for much outdoor skating. Locally made and imported ice skates are available. Several attractive and well-maintained public beaches are within reach. They are seldom used for swimming due to cool summer temperatures and treacherous currents but are covered from Easter to Labor Day with Northern Europeans in search of the sun. For serious swimming, large public and private indoor pools that also offer swimming lessons at moderate prices are available. The public pools are affordable, have large indoor swim 408

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Touring and Outdoor Activities Sightseeing in the Netherlands is a pleasant, popular, and inexpensive pastime on foot, or by car, bicycle, bus, or train. Separate bicycle lanes are provided in many areas and add to the safety and enjoyment of this type of touring. Bicycle lanes often run parallel and adjacent to the sidewalk. Be wary of inadvertently walking in bicycle territory. Since this is a small country, most points of interest are easily reached. For a major change of scenery, you must travel to the southeastern part of Holland or to a neighboring country, since the Netherlands' topography is flat or only slightly rolling. Short trips can easily be taken to nearby beaches, lakes, dunes, and woods. The many lakes, canals, and rivers provide ample opportunity for sailing and motorboating. You can rent sailboats, rowboats, and canoes at various places on the banks of these waterways. Boating and sailing are popular sports and membership in one of the numerous yacht clubs can be arranged easily. Since the climate is healthy, little need arises to seek relief except to escape the monotony of the cloudy and rainy winter months.

offers season tickets and individual concerts in a new concert hall, the Dr. Anton Philipszaal, opened in 1988. The acoustics are excellent. A new dance theater, Lucent Danstheater, opened at the same time as the concert hall, where excellent Dutch and visiting dance troupes perform regularly. Theaters, notably the Circus Theater, host many musical productions, often from England or the U.S. The Anglo-American Theater Group, a community theater company, is active, always welcomes new members, and produces shows of high quality. Tickets for the theater, operas, concerts, and other events are a little cheaper than in the U.S. and are available only a few days before a performance. When special attractions are offered, such as the Holland Festival with all its theater, music, and dance, or the North Sea Jazz Festival, both early summer events, advance reservations are essential. A number of movie theaters exist in The Hague, and movies are presented in the original language, with Dutch subtitles. American movies are popular and arrive in The Hague only a few months after their American openings. Many restaurants of all kinds are found in The Hague. Especially popular are Indonesian restaurants that feature “rice tables,” meals consisting of many courses of spicy meat and vegetables. Places serving national specialties, such as pea soup and pancakes, are also popular. Meals in hotels and restaurants are the same price range as in the U.S. Wines are more expensive. Good beer and locally produced spirits are available at every bar and restaurant.

Entertainment The Hague is one of the quieter seats of government in Europe, but many possibilities for entertainment exist. And if The Hague seems lacking in excitement, Amsterdam is only an hour away. Many excellent theater, concert, opera, and dance companies perform regularly in The Hague. The Residentie 2 Orkest is the local symphony and

Four events in The Hague are of special interest: the colorful ceremony opening parliament on the third Tuesday of September, celebration of the Queen's birthday on April 30, the ceremony opening the herring fishing season at Scheveningen in late May, and the arrival of Sint Nicolaas or Sinterklaas at the harbor in November. Besides

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Cities of the World movies, the boardwalk at Scheveningen with lots of activities, a video arcade, zoos nearby in both Amsterdam and Rotterdam, and amusement parks in Wassenaar and Rijswijk are fun diversions. C h i l d r e n ' s t h e a t e r, a p u p p e t museum, and the Omniversum, Europe's first space theater, also are of special interest to youngsters.

Social Activities Social life in The Hague is much the same as social life in the U.S. People entertain in their homes, go out to dinner, play sports and card games, or go to the movies with friends. Friends are developed through people met in the office, at church, in the neighborhood, through your children, and through other friends. A number of clubs of various sorts offer another channel for meeting people. Women can join the American Women's Club of The Hague, whose membership is open to all American women living in the Netherlands. Meetings are held monthly and the club is active in local philanthropic work. It also offers excellent opportunities to travel within Holland and Europe. The International Women's Contact Group, which started in 1979, is also active and is, as the name implies, international, offering American women the opportunity to meet Dutch women and women of other embassies. For children, the activities of the American Baseball Foundation, the churches, schools, and scout troops give structure to afterschool time. Getting to know the Dutch is one of the pleasures of a the Netherlands, but this requires positive effort. The Dutch are devoted to their families and to the friends they have known over many years, and are unlikely to search for friends among the foreign community. They are friendly, h o w e v e r, a n d s p e a k e x c e l l e n t English, so getting acquainted is straightforward. Entertaining is mainly done at home, and dinner parties are always popular.

Street scene in Amsterdam

Among the Dutch, it is proper and customary to invite guests for afterdinner coffee or for coffee and dessert. The Dutch entertain and enjoy being entertained chiefly on weeknights, preferring to devote the weekend to their families.

Amsterdam Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, is one of the most important and culturally rich cities in the world. Located at the junction of the Amstel and IJ rivers at the base of the IJsselmeer, Amsterdam is the country's leading financial and commercial center and the city closest to Schiphol, one of Europe's busiest airports. The earliest recorded date in Amsterdam's history is 1275, the date of a document granting certain tax exemptions to the city's people. During the later Middle Ages, the city grew in importance. It reached its “Golden Age” in the 17th century as a financial and cultural center of the Western World. Although the 18th and 19th centuries were a period of economic and political retrogression, completion of the North Sea Canal in 1876 favorably reversed this process and restored the city's position as a major seaport. Although many modern build-

Courtesy of Elizabeth Glaza

ings can be seen on the outskirts, the center of Amsterdam retains the character of its Golden Age, due to the city's policy of preserving the facades of the stately houses, warehouses, churches, and other fine buildings of that period. Central Amsterdam's renowned necklace of canals glistens with the beauty of the past, and offers many of the city's finest restaurants and hotels. Just outside of this inner ring stand newer housing areas, including sections such as Olympia Plein, which was built for the 1928 Olympics in Amsterdam. These areas are characterized by pleasing facades, convenient shopping, and general livability. Beyond this, and often close to the highways surrounding the city, stand high-rise structures built to ease the housing demands of the most densely populated land in the world. Although Amsterdam has many impressive buildings such as the palace, the Stadsschouwburg, the Rijksmuseum, and the Concertgebouw, it has few of the monumental royal and official buildings that mark many other capital cities. Its charm derives from its 17th century bourgeois mercantile and residential buildings, its many canals, and its hundreds of bridges that make 409

The Netherlands Amsterdam a splendid walking or biking city.

Education The International School of Amsterdam (ISA), founded in 1964, is a private coeducational school. It offers an educational program from toddlers (age 2) through high school. About 40 nationalities are represented among the student body. The school term extends from August to June, and the curriculum is that of U.S. public and private elementary, middle, and high schools. Instruction is in English. The school is housed in a new mode r n c o m p l e x w i t h cl a s s r o o m s, gymnasium, theater, library, auditorium, science laboratories, and areas for recreation and sports. The student population varies between 600-700. ISA is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC) and by the European Council of International Schools. It is located to the south of Amsterdam in Amstelveen, with excellent highway connections to all areas. The school maintains an efficient bus fleet serving many residential areas. Cost of bus service for schoolchildren is not included in the normal tuition.

Sports Sports facilities in Amsterdam for popular U.S. sports are limited. Amsterdam has no public tennis or golf facilities; all are operated commercially or by private clubs. Individual membership in a tennis club confers the right to play daily during the April to October season. Often a long waiting list exists to become a member. For a few hundred dollars a year, you can rent indoor courts from October to April for a designated hour each week. Group instruction and special rates are available for children. The two modern duckpin bowling alleys in Amsterdam are expensive. The city also has six large indoor swimming pools and six outdoor public pools. All offer group instruction for children. 410

Cities of the World Sailing and windsurfing are popular at numerous facilities in and around Amsterdam. Soccer is the major national spectator sport. Amsterdam boasts a well known team, Ajax, and has numerous soccer clubs with a full schedule of games from September through June. Foreign boys may be admitted to the amateur clubs. Teams play every Sunday, weather permitting. M e m b e r s a r e a l s o e x p e c t ed t o attend one or more practice sessions a week, scheduled in the late afternoon or early evening. Baseball enjoys some popularity and several Dutch amateur clubs in and around Amsterdam accept foreign boys. Games are regularly scheduled on Saturdays. As with soccer, members are expected to attend one practice or training session a week. Clubs also have softball teams for girls. Membership fees for both soccer and baseball teams are nominal, but uniforms must be purchased. Amsterdam has an American-style professional football team, the Admirals. Cycling is a popular pastime and a practical means of transportation; good cycling lanes and paths abound in the city and in nearby parks.

Entertainment As the cultural and entertainment center of the Netherlands, Amsterdam offers a wide variety of entertainment. An abundance of theaters and concert halls exist in the city. The outstanding Concertgebouw is world famous and season subscriptions are available for a variety of performances, including those by the Nederland Philharmonisch Orkest, Dixieland bands, and chamber music groups. The newly-opened Stopera is home to the excellent National Ballet and the Dutch Opera company. Art lovers will find a wealth of exhibits among the city'; 42 museums. The most famous are the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, located on the Museumpleit near the American Consulate General For those seeking lighter entertainment the downtown has a variety of nightclub; as well as theaters where

American and foreign films are shown.

Social Activities An American Women's Club is active it Amsterdam. Its main activities include monthly meetings featuring interesting speakers; trips to local towns, museums, and foreign countries; a variety of classes; and coffee get-togethers. It also distributes an informative monthly magazine.

Rotterdam Rotterdam the nation’s second largest city, with a metropolitan population of nearly 1.1 million, is 18 miles upstream from where the combined Rhine and Maas (Meuse) Rivers empty into the North Sea. It is about 15 miles from The Hague and 45 miles from Amsterdam. The surrounding countryside is low and flat, with much of the area below sea level. The lowest point in the country, nearly 30 feet below sea level, is in the eastern part of the city. Little is left of old Rotterdam, which prospered as a major commercial city during the Middle Ages. In May 1940, protected only by the Royal Netherlands Marines Corps, it fell to German invaders and, within hours after capitulation, the city center was demonstratively destroyed by the most intense aerial bombardment known to that time. Therefore, the downtown area is almost entirely new and modern in style. In rebuilding after the war’s end, Rotterdam constructed the first pedestrian-only shopping mall in the world. The rest of the city, built largely in the half-century before World War I, lacks the ancient structures of historical and architectural interest that typify other old Dutch cities. Two of the best examples in that respect, Delft and Gouda, are close by; several other picturesque towns also are in the vicinity. The burgomaster and city fathers describe Rotterdam as a port with

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Schools and Colleges and the Europea n Council of Int ernat ional Schools. The enrollment has a distinctly international flavor; British, American (a minority), Scandinavian, Japanese, and many other nationalities are represented. Transportation is provided, at extra cost, if requested. Further information may be obtained from American International at Hillegondastraat 21, 3051 PA Rotterdam, The Netherlands. Students in grades nine through 12 usually attend the American School of The Hague.

Bridge over Hollandse Ijssel River in Rotterdam

an attached city. Its character and importance derive from its position as the gateway of the water routes to the Ruhr industrial area and southern Germany, to Switzerland, and to eastern France and Belgium. The Port of Rotterdam, the largest in the world in terms of geography (nearly 27.5 miles of river and 25,000 acres of port area) and cargo tonnage (handing 30 percent of the European Union’s freight shipped by sea), is sometimes referred to as “the locomotive of the Dutch economy.” Indeed, it is in a class by itself, handling nearly 60 percent as much tonnage as any other port anywhere. Over 32,000 seagoing vessels bring goods to Rotterdam each year, and more than 190,000 barges carry most of it on to other destinations. Life revolves around the port, its man-made waterway (the Nieuwe Waterweg), and industrial appendages. The city is the home port for several major shipping lines, including the Holland-Amerika Line. It is also an important center for a number of American lines such as Lykes, Sea Land, Sea Train, and United States Lines. It is frequently visited by units of the U.S. Navy. A big share of the tonnage handled is crude oil and refined products, and the port area is the site of the

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

world’s largest refinery and petrochemical complex. The port and its industrial properties are noteworthy not only for their extent, but for the way in which they have been integrated with the environment to preserve adjacent water and recreational areas. Total U.S. industrial investment in the area is estimated at $5.5 billion. Vast amounts of grains, ores, coal, and most of the Japanese cars bound for dealers in Europe pass through the Port of Rotterdam. The city is continuing to expand port facilities, and new growth is now concentrated on the Maasvlakte, a delta built from reclaimed land at the mouth of the river. Among other projects is a huge new container terminal. The Rotterdam Maritime Museum recently opened on the waterfront, featuring indoor and outdoor exhibits.

Education The American International School of Rotterdam was founded in 1959. It provides education from pre-kindergarten through eighth grade. The school, which follows the American system, emphasizes a core academic curriculum with a variety of supportive courses and an active athletic program. It is accredited by the New England Association of

For adults, an M.B.A. is offered by Erasmus University, an arm of the University of Rochester.

Recreation Rotterdam offers more than commercial activity. There are several attractions in and around the city, among them Blijdorp Zoo, where the animals live in a natural environment, and where Rivierahal, Europe’s largest covered zoo complex, is located; the gigantic Euromast tower; harbor boat tours; Ahoy, a large sports palace and exhibition center; the historic town of Delfshaven (now part of the Rotterdam metropolis, but once the port of Delft); and a variety of shopping promenades and malls. Sailing, boating, and wind surfing are popular sports in Rotterdam, and bicycle paths are everywhere. The city has 19 public swimming pools, most of them indoors. A few stables exist, and an important European riding competition is held here each August. To play tennis, soccer, field hockey, softball, etc., it is necessary to join a sports club offering the appropriate facilities. A WCT tennis tournament with world stars is held here each year. T h e R o t t e r d a m G o l f C l u b, a n 18-hole course, was opened a few years ago. A private, nine-hole golf course is also available, where foreigners are welcome to play on a g r e e n s -f e e b a s i s. Other five-to-nine-hole courses are in the 411

The Netherlands vicinity. There are a couple of American-style bowling alleys in the city.

exist, but plays are given only in Dutch.

The World Trade Center Club and the Yacht Club (known as the Maas Club) are popular among Americans. The former is in the heart of the business district, and the latter offers a nice view of the harbor from the main tugboat pier. A social membership at the Maas Club is not expensive, and offers regular duplicate bridge evenings as well as dining facilities.

The American-Netherlands Club of Rotterdam (ANCOR), a women’s club whose membership is American, Dutch, and other nationalities, was organized in 1955. It maintains a lending library, has monthly meetings, occasional bridge parties, an annual dinner-dance, and organizes tours of cultural or scenic interest. A local chapter of the International Toastmistress Club also exists.

Movies and television programs are aired in their original languages, with Dutch subtitles. Dutch, Belgian, German, British, and French TV stations broadcast numerous, and fairly recent American and British programs via the widespread cable system.

Many American business representatives belong to the American Chamber of Commerce in the Nethe r l a n d s, w h i c h h a s m o n t h l y speaker-luncheons, business seminars, a pre-Christmas cocktail party, and other functions. An informal monthly luncheon gathering of younger business representatives is also held.

The city’s modern concert hall, the Doelen, is noted for its excellent acoustics, and offers frequent performances of classical and modern symphonic, chamber, and solo music by resident and visiting artists. The Doelen is the home of the outstandi n g R o t t e r d a m P h i l h a r m o n i c. Chamber and sacred music recitals are held at St. Lawrence Church a n d a t t h e s o -c a l l e d P i l g r i m s Church in Delfshaven, where the Pilgrims prayed before setting sail for England and America.

Rotterdam residents are welcome to join the American Association of The Netherlands, a countrywide social organization centered on the American business community of The Hague area (which includes Rotterdam). This organization sponsors occasional speaker-luncheons, wine tastings, a golf tournament, and an annual charity ball to raise funds for American youth activities. Rotary, Lions, and other civic groups, and Boy and Girl Scouts also have chapters here.

The country has two excellent ballet companies, the Nationale Ballet and Nederlands Dans Theater, both of which have toured the U.S. They perform often in Rotterdam. There is no repertory opera company, but The Netherlands Opera Foundation annually produces a dozen operas (each in its original language), with guest singers, and tours the nation’s principal cities.

Rotterdam has a wide variety of restaurants. Many serve typical Dutch cuisine but, increasingly, international fare is offered at a number of these, as well as in hotel dining rooms.

Entertainment

Frequent performances are given by well-known pop stars and rock groups. These are usually held at the Ahoy Complex in the south part of the city, which is also the venue of boxing matches, six-day bike races, trade and consumer fairs, circuses, etc. Several legitimate theaters 412

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Utrecht Utrecht, a picturesque city characterized by numerous sunken canals, is located in the central part of the Netherlands on the Oude Rijn River, a branch of the Lower Rhine. Situated about 35 miles west of The Hague and 20 miles south of Amsterdam, Utrecht is a transportation, financial, and industrial center that manufactures cement, machinery, processed minerals, food

products, and chemicals. The capital of Utrecht province, the city is the site of a major trade fair, and has a population of close to 230,000. Fo u n d e d a n d f o r t i f i e d b y t h e Romans about A.D. 48, Utrecht was made an episcopal see for St. Willibrord, the Apostle to the Frisians, in the seventh century. The area around the city was ruled by bishops of the Holy Roman Empire, which resulted in frequent struggles between the prelates and the merchants of Utrecht. The city received a liberal charter in 1122, but had sporadic trouble with the bishops until 1527. Utrecht was the center of the Netherlands’ weaving industry and a major commercial city in the Middle Ages, and was incorporated by Charles V into the rest of the Hapsburg-held Netherlands. In 1577, Utrecht joined the rebellion against Philip II of Spain. On January 23, 1579, the seven provinces of the North Netherlands, called the U n i t e d P r o v i n c e s, f o r m e d t h e nucleus of the Dutch republic, drawing up a common defense in the Union of Utrecht. During the 17th century, Utrecht became a center of Jansenism, the Roman Catholic movement whose purpose was a return of people to greater personal holiness. In 1713, the series of treaties that ended the War of the Spani s h S u c c e s s i o n — t h e Pe a c e o f Utrecht—were signed here. Major landmarks in Utrecht, a city rich in antiquities, include the Dom Tower of a 15th-century Catholic cathedral; numerous other medieval churches; and a 350-year-old university. Castle De Harr, near the village of Maarssen (four miles outside of Utrecht) was first built in 1165. The medieval structure is complete with towers, battlements, parapets, a moat and drawbridge. Within can be found Chinese porcelains, Flemish tapestries, and handcarved fireplace mantles. Zuilen Castle is also nearby. Utrecht has several museums of interest, including an archiepiscopal museum, the Dutch Railway

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Cities of the World Museum (featuring steam locomotives and model trains), and the National Museum Van Speelklok tot Pierement, a museum dedicated to musical clocks and street organs.

Schools for Foreigners The International School Beverweerd is located less than 10 miles f r o m U t r e c h t i n We r k h o v e n . Founded in 1934, it follows a combined U.S., Dutch, and International Baccalaureate curriculum for grades eight through 13. English is the language of instruction in the International section, although Dutch, French, German, and Spanish may be studied as foreign languages. About 80 percent of the school’s graduates go on to attend college. The school year extends from September through June. International School has a current enrollment of 66, most of whom are Dutch. There is also a planned, seven-day boarding program; about two-thirds of the students are boarders. The campus is situated on 45 acres; facilities include six buildings, 10 classrooms, sports fields, science and computer laboratories, and a 2,500-volume library. The address of International School Beverweerd is Beverweerdseweg 6 0 , 3 9 8 5 R E We r k h o v e n , T h e Netherlands.

Haarlem Haarlem, situated in the west, on the Spaarne River near the North Sea, is 10 miles west of Amsterdam and 40 miles north of The Hague. The capital of North Holland Province, Haarlem has a population of 150,000, and is an industrial center with shipyards, machinery plants and textile mills. However, Haarlem is best known as a center of an important tulip and flower-growing region, as well as the export point for bulbs, especially tulips. Haarlem’s flower market is breathtaking in color and scope. The city is also the site of a monument commemorating the legendary boy of Haarlem

who stopped a leak in the dike with his finger.

with a public distribution of bread and herring.

Chartered as a city in 1245, Haarlem was invaded by the Spanish during the revolt of the Netherlands in 1573. The city was the center of Dutch art during the 15th and 17th centuries; such painters as Frans Hals (1580–1666), Jacob van Ruisdael (1628–1682), and Adriaen van Ostade (1610–1685) worked here.

The city became a printing center in 1580, when a press was established by the Elzevir family. Many of the pilgrims who set sail from England for America in 1620 had lived in Leiden earlier, and Americans often come here as tourists to visit Pieterskerk, where those pilgrims worshiped. Leiden was the birthplace of painters Jan van Goyen (1596– 1656), Jan Steen (1626–1679), Lucas van Leyden (1494–1533), and Rembrandt (van Rijn) (1607–1669).

Haarlem has numerous historic buildings, including the 15th-century Church of St. Bavo, or Groote Kerk, which has a world-renowned organ; the Stadhuis (city hall), previously a palace of the counts of Holland, and constructed in the 13th century; many medieval gabled houses; and several museums, including the Frans Hals Museum and the Teyler Science Museum.

Leiden Leiden (sometimes spelled Leyden) lies on the Old Rhine River, just north of The Hague. With a current population of approximately 105,000, Leiden is best known as the site of one of the world’s great universities. Founded in 1575 by William the Silent, the University of Leiden is the oldest in the Netherlands. During the 17th and 18th centuries, it was a center for the study of Protestant theology, classical and oriental languages, science, and medicine. Herman Boerhaave, the famous Dutch physician, taught here. Today, the university is noted for its Asian studies, physics, and astronomy. The history of Leiden began in Roman times. Since the 16th century, when weavers came here from Flanders, Leiden has had an important textile industry. The city was instrumental in the revolt of the Netherlands against Spanish rule late in the 16th century. In 1574, William the Silent (the founder of Dutch independence) saved Leiden from starvation and surrender during the Spanish siege by cutting the dikes and allowing the surrounding land to flood; this incident is commemorated each year on October 3

Today, Leiden is an important industrial city, manufacturing food products, textiles, and medical equipment. Its historical landmarks include a fortress dating to the 10th century; two churches—the 14th-century Pieterskerk and the 15th-century Hooglandsche Kerk; many museums; and numerous buildings from the 17th century.

Maastricht Maastricht, the oldest city in the Netherlands, is the capital of Limburg Province in the southernmost part of the country, near the borders of Belgium and Germany. Situated on the Maas River and the Albert Canal system, the city derives its name from the Latin Trajectum ad Mosam, meaning Maas ford. The name signifies that the river was forded at the site of the city during ancient times. With a population today of more than 114,000, Maastricht is an important industrial center, as well as a rail and river transportation point. Chief manufactured products include steel, textiles, ceramics, paper, glass, printed materials, and chemicals. Maastricht was an episcopal see from 382 to 721, and the city’s Cathedral of St. Servaas (Servatius), founded in the sixth century, is the oldest church in the Netherlands; extensive restoration work is now underway, and all but the treasury of relics is temporarily closed to visitors. In 1284, Maastricht was dominated by the dukes of Brabant and the prince-bishop of Liège, and 413

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Cities of the World

Gabled buildings along a canal in Amsterdam

was a strategic fortress for many years. Because of its location as a border town, it has been subject to frequent sieges in various wars. The Spanish captured it in 1579; the Dutch recovered it in 1632; and it fell to the French several times, notably in 1673 and 1794. Occupied by the Germans in 1940, Maastricht was retaken by Americans on September 15, 1944. The city has many historic landmarks, including the Romanesque Basilica of Our Gracious Lady, which dates from the 11th and 12th centuries; at night the grotto at the entrance to the church is beautified by candles and shaded lighting, and it is not uncommon to see the enclosure filled with supplicants late in the evening. Other places of historic interest are the 13th-century bridge across the Maas River, separating the old and new sections of the city; the 17th-century town hall; and the recently restored area of twisting, 414

cobblestone streets and centuries-old buildings, which had deteriorated into a slum area but is now a charming district of galleries, shops, and good restaurants. Of particular interest to Americans is the nearby U.S. military cemetery—the only one in the Netherlands—where 8,301 U.S. soldiers were buried. While some of those GIs were returned to the U.S. for reburial, the 65.5 acres in the Dutch countryside are granted in perpetuity as a token of appreciation by the people of the Netherlands. Every five years since the end of World War II, a reunion of the veterans of the battle that freed Maastricht and of the later German counterattack known as the Battle of the Bulge (fought a few miles south in Belgium), is held in Maastricht. The 50th anniversary was held in 1994.

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

There are several museums in Maastricht, among them the Bonnefanten, with collections of ancient and modern art, archaeology, and historical artifacts; the Natural History Museum; the Africa Center; a museum of glass and ceramics; and the Santjes en Kantjes, a museum of devotional objects. Maastricht has an airport on the motorway at Beek.

Eindhoven Eindhoven, with a population of 191,500, is situated on the Dommel River in the southern Netherlands province of North Brabant. About 65 miles south of Amsterdam, Eindhoven is a rail junction and industrial center that produces electrical and radio apparatus, steel, and textiles. Chartered in 1232, Eindhoven was a small town for many centuries.

The Netherlands

Cities of the World The city expanded rapidly after the founding of the Philips Electrical Works in 1891. Eindhoven was taken by Allied troops in September 1944 in a major airborne operation which also involved the cities of Nijmegen and Arnhem. The city has a noted technical university, which opened in 1956. The Regionale Internationale School, founded in 1965 with an American curriculum, enrolls students from kindergarten through grade six. The address is: Humperdincklaan 4, 5654 PA Eindhoven, The Netherlands.

Groningen Groningen is located in northeast Netherlands 90 miles from Amsterdam. It is the capital, and bears the name of the Netherlands’ northernmost province, and is the site of a famous university, founded in 1614. An important transportation and trade center, the city produces foodstuffs, furniture, machinery, and clothing. The area is also known for dairy farming and horse breeding. Groningen, once a Roman camp, came under the power of the bishops of Utrecht in the 11th century, rising to prominence a century later by supplying ships for the Crusades. In 1284, it became part of the medieval commercial confederation of German merchants-the Hanse atic League. Groningen was taken by the Allied forces during World War II in April 1945. Architecturally interesting, and enhanced by splendid gardens, Groningen is a picturesque city with many fine churches—in particular, the 15th-century Martinikerk (honoring St. Martin, patron saint of tourists), and the 17th-century Nieuwe Kerk—and several museums. Groningen has a current population of 167,800.

Nijmegen Nijmegen is one of the Netherlands’ oldest cities. It was founded in Roman times, flourished in the

eighth and ninth centuries under Charlemagne, and was chartered in 1184. The six peace treaties of Nijmegen, ending the Dutch war with Louis XIV of France, were signed here in 1678–79. In World War II, Allied airborne forces recaptured Nijmegen from the Germans in September 1944; they failed, however, to rescue the troops caught in nearby Arnhem.

marks such as the 13th-century St. George’s Church. The gothic Tower of Our Lady is all that remains of a church built in 1450. Educational institutions here include a Jensenist college and a school for bell ringers. Amersfoort has a government archaeological research station and regional museum. The city’s population is approximately 129,000.

Located in eastern Netherlands near the German border, Nijmegen has a population today of 146,450. A rail and water transportation point, Nijmegen is also an industrial center that produces paper, clothing, soap, and metal products.

The garden city of APELDOORN lies in the east-central area, about 50 miles east of Amsterdam. Known for its sanitariums and nearby Hogue Veluwe National Park, this also is a manufacturing hub, producing chemicals, refrigeration components, pharmaceuticals, and paper products. In the vicinity is Het Loo, the summer home of the Dutch royal family. Here, queen mother Wilhelmina (1880–1962) lived following her 1948 abdication. Built as a hunting lodge, Het Loo was first used by William III in 1686. Apeldoorn has an estimated population of 155,000.

Still standing in Nijmegen are a 13th-century church, a town hall dating from the 16th century, a 17th-century weigh house, and the remains of a palace built by Charlemagne. The Catholic University of Nijmegen was founded in 1923.

OTHER CITIES Twenty miles north of Amsterdam lies the city of ALKMAAR. An important market town, Alkmaar is world famous as the site of the weekly Edam cheese market, held in front of the 16th-century weigh house. Chartered in 1254, Alkmaar’s successful defense against the Spanish troops in 1573 was the turning point in the revolt of the Netherlands. The current population is 92,700. Edam, with a population of 19,300, is situated between Amsterdam and Alkmaar on IJesselmeer Lake. A picturesque town noted for its cheese and fisheries, Edam also attracts many tourists. AMERSFOORT is situated on the Eem River, 25 miles southeast of Amsterdam in the central region. Development here dates to the 10th century when the area was fortified. The river, formerly called the Amer, gave the city its name, which means “ford on the Amer.” Amersfoort, today a livestock and market gardening center, still has medieval street patterns, as well as land-

ARNHEM is a port on the Lower Rhine and the capital of Gelderland Province in eastern Netherlands. Located about 50 miles southeast of Amsterdam, it is a transportation and industrial center that manufactures textiles, metal goods, and electrical equipment. A city as early as the ninth century, Arnhem was the site of a serious defeat of British airborne troops in September 1944. The debacle was immortalized in the book and film A Bridge Too Far. The current population is 141,000. BREDA, in southern Netherlands at the confluence of the Mark and Aa Rivers, is 55 miles south of Amsterdam. A transportation and industrial center, Breda produces canned foods, machinery, and textiles. Founded before the 11th century, Breda was captured by the Spanish in 1624. A famous painting by Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Veláquez (1599–1660) depicts the surrender of the garrison. The city has a 13th-century Gothic church— Groote Kerk—and a castle that is now a military academy. The population is 163,300. 415

The Netherlands BUSSUM is a southeastern suburb of Amsterdam about 10 miles outside the capital, with roughly 34,000 residents. Today the home of the country’s television studios, as well as an industrial district, Bussum was initially an extension of Naarden, a fortress town. Cocoa and chocolate have been produced here since 1840. The city acts as a resort for the Gooiland region, with its lakes and forests. DELFT, situated in the western Netherlands just south of The Hague, is a city with a population of 97,000. It has a variety of industries, but is particularly known for its ceramics—the world-renowned china, tiles, and pottery called delftware. The delftware manufactured here in the 17th century was an imitation of Chinese and Japanese porcelain. Delft was an important pottery center from the mid-17th to the end of the 18th century but, by 1850, the industry had nearly disappeared. It was decades later that delftware again became an important product here. Delft was founded in the 11th century, chartered in 1246, and was important commercially until overtaken by Rotterdam in the 17th century. It was in Delft that William the Silent was assassinated in 1584, during the bitter struggle against Spain. Jan Vermeer was born here in 1632, and his famous painting, View of Delft, still characterizes the city today—a city of narrow canals and arched bridges, and picturesque, gabled houses. Historic buildings include the 13th-century Gothic Oude Kerk (old church); the Nieuwe Kerk (new church), dating from the 15th century; and a well-preserved 17th-century town hall. Delft is the site of a technical university. DORDRECHT is located 40 miles south of Amsterdam in South Holland Province, and has a population of over 120,250. An important river port and rail junction, the city has shipyards and manufactures clothing, chemicals, and heavy machine r y. D o r d r e c h t ( o r D o r t ) w a s founded in the 11th century, and was the site of the meeting of the Estates of Holland that proclaimed 416

Cities of the World William the Silent stadholder in 1572. The city has a Gothic church—Groote Kerk—more than 500 years old, and an art museum. The industrial city of ENSCHEDE is located 80 miles east of Amsterdam just west of the German border in eastern Netherlands. A textile and machinery manufacturing center and a rail junction, Enschede produces textiles, beer, pharmaceuticals, and rubber goods. Historically, the city was first mentioned in 1118; it was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1862, but later rebuilt. Enschede has a natural history museum and a technical university founded in 1961. The current population is approximately 144,550. GOUDA, noted worldwide for its cheese, has been a town since receiving a charter in 1272. During the Middle Ages, it was a center for textile trade. Gouda is, according to the Dutch, “Holland’s tourist heart.” Each Thursday morning in summer, at De Waag and the old crafts market, visitors and residents throng the area to watch the farm-cheese weighing. Other popular tourist attractions are Sint Janskerk, with its spectacular enameled window frames, Gouda’s unique four-century-old Gothic town hall, and the Catharina Gasthuis Museum. Desiderius Erasmus (1469–1536), the highly respected Dutch humanist, pursued his early studies here at Gouda before entering the Catholic priesthood. S‘HERTOGENBOSCH, the capital of North Brabant Province in south central Netherlands, is 45 miles from Amsterdam. Located at the confluence of the Dommel and Aa Rivers, s’Hertogenbosch is an industrial and transportation center with a large cattle market. Chartered as a city in 1184, and a fortress until 1876, it is the site of the beautiful Gothic St. John’s Cathedral. The artist Hieronymus Bosch (1450–1516) was born here. KINDERDIJK, close to Rotterdam, is a small town of particular interest because of its windmills, many of

them dating to about 1740. On Saturdays during July and August, when wind and water permit, all mills are in operation. Another unique town in the area is Schoonhaven, with its 17th-century ramparts and its white-brick town hall, built in 1452. Known for its widely exported gin, SCHIEDAM is located seven miles west of Rotterdam on the Nieuwe Maas River. With a population of about 85,000, the city has shipyards and manufactures glass, chemicals, and machinery. Schiedam’s historical structures include the ruins of a 13th-century castle, a 14th-century church, and a town hall built in the 16th century. Situated just north of the Belgian border, TILBURG is in southern Netherlands, 50 miles southeast of The Hague. With a population of 197,400, Tilburg’s growth occurred late in the 19th century with the expansion of industry. Today, the city manufactures textile machinery, textiles, leather, and dyes. The Catholic School of Economics is located in Tilburg. The former royal residence of King William of the Netherlands serves as the city’s town hall. Seven communities merged in 1974 to form the industrial city of ZAANSTA D , six miles northwes t of Amsterdam. Zaandam, Koog aan de Zaan, Zaandijk, Wormerveer, Krommenie, Assendelft, and Westzaan comprise the city now, with a population of 138,000. Russia’s Peter the Great (1672–1725) came to Zaandam to learn shipbuilding in 1697; the house where the tsar stayed can be seen today. Other sights are 17th-century windmills, and a mill museum in the Koog aan de Zaan area. Zaanstad acts as a rail junction, in addition to being a center for the lumber industry. The historic city of ZWOLLE is the capital of Overijssel Province, 50 miles northwest of Amsterdam on the Zwarte River. Its commercial traditions date to its founding in 1230. The city was a member of the Hanseatic League (a medieval com-

The Netherlands

Cities of the World mercial confederation of German merchants) until its fortifications were ruined in the Anglo-Dutch Wars of the late 1600s. The Sassenpoort Gate is one section of the ramparts still standing. Critically located at the juncture of the Netherlands’ principal canal systems and at a rail crossing, Zwolle maintains its commercial dominance. Economic activities here center on shipbuilding, chemicals, and industrial products. St. Michael’s Church, the Church of Our Lady, and the town hall were all erected in the 1400s. Thomas à Kempis (ca. 1380– 1471), the famous priest and writer, spent the better part of his life in the Augustinian Monastery of Mt. St. Agnes, three miles outside of t o w n. Z w o l l e h a s a p ro v i n c i a l museum and approximately 109,000 residents.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Netherlands is bordered on the north and west by the North Sea, on the south by Belgium, and on the east by the Federal Republic of Germany. It covers about 14,000 square miles, and is almost one-third the size of Virginia. The land is low and flat except in the southeast, where some hills rise to 1,000 feet. About one-third of its area is below sea level, making the famous Dutch dikes a requisite to land use. Continuing reclamation of land from the sea into new areas (polders) provides fertile land for this densely populated country. The warmest period falls between June and September; the other months are cool or cold. Despite an occasional warm spell in summer, temperatures rarely exceed 75°F. Winter is long, often dreary, and the damp cold is penetrating.

Population The Netherlands has a population of 15.6 million, making it Europe's most densely populated nation. The Dutch are mostly of Germanic heritage with some Gallo Celtic mixture. A proud people, they have clung tenaciously to their small homeland against the constant threat of destruction by the North Sea. In the process, they have created farmlands and cities from the sea bed. Religion influences Dutch history, institutions, and attitudes. It is closely interrelated with social and political life, though to a diminishing degree. Freedom of religion is guaranteed by the Constitution. Although church and state are separate, a few historical ties remain: e.g., the royal family belongs to the Dutch Reformed Church (Protestant). Religion remains important to most Netherlanders. Slightly more than 30% of the population are Roman Catholic, 30% are Protestant and about 40% have no religious affiliation.

History Julius Caesar found the Netherlands inhabited by Germanic tribes, one of which, the Batavi, did not submit to Rome until 13 B.C., and then only as an ally. The area was part of Charlemagne’s empire in the eighth century, later passed into the hands of the House of Burgundy and the Austrian Hapsburgs, and eventually fell under harsh Spanish rule in the 16th century. The Dutch revolted in 1568 under William of Orange and, 11 years later, the seven northern provinces formed the Union of Utrecht and became the Republic of the United Netherlands. During its “golden era” of the 17th century, the Netherlands became a great sea and colonial power. Its importance declined, however, during the 18th-century wars with Spain and France. In 1795, French troops ousted William V. Following Napoleon’s defeat, the Netherlands and Belgium became the Kingdom of the United Nether-

lands under King William I, head of the House of Orange. The Belgians withdrew from the Union in 1830 to form their own kingdom. In 1840, William I abdicated in favor of William II, who was largely responsible for the liberal revision of the constitution in 1848. During the long reign of William III, from 1849 to 1890, the Netherlands prospered. Wilhelmina, William III’s 10-year-old daughter, succeeded her father in 1898. The Netherlands was neutral during World War I, and again proclaimed neutrality at the start of World War II. Nonetheless, German troops overran the country in May 1940. Queen Wilhelmina and Crown Princess (later Queen) Juliana then fled to London, where a government-in-exile was established. They subsequently moved to Canada. The German Army in the Netherlands capitulated May 5, 1945. Juliana succeeded her mother upon Wilhelmina’s abdication in 1948. Juliana, in turn, relinquished the throne to her daughter, Beatrix, the present queen, on April 30, 1980.

Public Institutions The Netherlands Government is based on the principles of ministerial responsibility and parliamentary government common to most constitutional monarchies in Western Europe. It is composed of three basic institutions: a) the Crown (Monarch, Council of Ministers, and Council of State); b) the States General (parliament); and c) the Courts. Although her functions are largely ceremonial, the Queen maintains an influence in the government. It is derived from the traditional respect for the House of Orange and her personal qualities. Ministers collectively form a Council of Ministers, or Cabinet, which implements government policies and initiates legislation. The ministers are responsible to but not members of the States General (parliament), which consists of the First Chamber (Upper House) and the Second Chamber (Lower House), that meet 417

The Netherlands

Cities of the World resented at the yearly Holland and the North Sea Jazz Festivals. Theater is abundantly available in the Netherlands, although in Dutch, and many avant-garde theater groups perform off-Broadway plays.

Commerce and Industry

Bicycle parking in Amsterdam

separately except for ceremonial occasions. In addition to their legislative authority, both chambers exercise oversight of the Council of Ministers through questioning and investigation. However, only the Second Chamber may initiate legislation and amend bills submitted by the Council of Ministers. The First Chamber's 75 members are indirectly elected by the provincial legislatures. The Second Chamber has 150 members, who are elected directly nationwide for 4 year terms on the basis of proportional representation.

Arts, Science, and Education Education in the Netherlands is excellent. Many foreign students are enrolled in the 13 schools of higher education. The University of Leiden, the School of Economics of the Erasmus University in Rotterdam, the medical school in Utrecht, and the Technical University at Delft have played important roles in the development of other European universities. Webster University in Leiden offers an English language undergraduate degree program and an MBA program. It also has a small program in Amsterdam and 418

Courtesy of Elizabeth Glaza

Utrecht. Extension courses from the University of Maryland and other American colleges or universities are available by correspondence. The International Court of Justice in The Hague and the Universities of Leiden and Amsterdam offer summer courses in international law that are attended by many Americans. Music schools and art academies also enjoy excellent reputations. Culturally, the Netherlands offers a wealth of opportunities. The Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk, and the Van Gogh Museums in Amsterdam are world famous. Boymansvan Beuningen Museum in Rotterdam and the Kroller Muller Museum in Otterloo have excellent collections of modern art. The small but exquisite Mauritshuis in The Hague features 17th century Dutch and Flemish paintings. The performing arts in the Netherlands are well regarded internationally. Het Nationale Ballet, the Netherlands Dance Theater, the Concertgebouw Orchestra, the Residentie Orchestra, and the Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra, have frequently toured the U.S. and Europe. In return, American music and dance troupes frequently perform in the Netherlands. The American performing arts are always well rep-

The Netherlands has a prosperous and open economy that depends heavily on foreign trade. More than two-thirds of the Dutch Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is generated through merchandise and services trade. The Dutch are strong proponents of free trade and historically one of our staunchest allies in international economic and financial institutions. The Netherlands has a number of large multinational corporations, including Philips Electronics NV, Royal Dutch Shell, Unilever, Akzo/Nobel, DSM, Heineken and Albert Heijn Holding. More than 1,600 companies established in the Netherlands are either wholly or partly American owned. This has made the United States the largest investor in the Netherlands. The U.S. is the single most important market for Dutch products outside of Europe. The Netherlands, Japan, and the United Kingdom are the top three direct investors in the United States. The Netherlands has for decades been among the ten largest customers for U.S. products worldwide and among the three largest customers for U.S. products in Europe. Over the years, the U.S. developed its largest worldwide merchandise trade surplus with the Netherlands. Agricultural commodities account for roughly 50 percent of U.S. exports to the Netherlands. Other important U.S. exports to the Netherlands include machinery, medical equipment, aircraft and avionics, computers and software, and business equipment. The Netherlands has stable industrial relations. For several decades, the Netherlands has enjoyed a large current account surplus from its trade and overseas investments. It

The Netherlands

Cities of the World is a net exporter of natural gas. The Dutch have developed their country's harbors at the mouth of the Rhine and Maas rivers into an European transportation hub centered on the Port of Rotterdam and supported by Schipol International Airport in Amsterdam. Excellent rail, canal, and road transportation complete the system making the Netherlands an important transshipment point for goods with destinations within the entire European continent. The single European internal market and the European Economic and Monetary Union (EMU) make the Netherlands an attractive distribution center for U.S. exporters.

accounts for more than half of total production by value, followed by horticulture (mainly flowers) and arable crops. Production of milk and milk products, slaughter hogs, and vegetables are of greatest value. The U.S. enjoys a trade surplus in agricultural trade with the Netherlands. Major imports from the U.S. in order of importance typically include: soybeans, feedgrain substitutes, tobacco, fresh citrus, and high quality beef. Dutch agricultural exports to the U.S. consist mostly of beer, cut flowers, flower bulbs, cocoa products, and dairy products.

The private sector is the cornerstone of the Dutch economy. Curr e n t e c o n o m i c pe r f o r m a n c e i s clearly better than that in other European countries with respect to unemployment and inflation. Relatively strong economic performance is attributed to the Dutch “Polder” Model, in which consensus among government, industry and trade unions results in successful and of deregulation, wage restraint, liberalization, privatization and tax reform. The government has gradually reduced its role in the economy in favor of privatization and deregulation. The State continues to dominate the energy sector, and plays a large role in public transport, aviation and telecommunications sectors. The Netherlands is firmly committed to the Economic and Monetary Union (EMU); public finances are well within the official EMU targets.

Automobiles

company licensed by the Netherlands Government. Dutch insurance rates are high, but a 75 percent reduction is granted if a letter from the previous insurance company is submitted with certification that the applicant had no claims during the preceding 10 years. Smaller reductions are granted for shorter, claim free periods. These companies can write collision, comprehensive, and other types of coverage but the cost is high. You can also insure through one of the American companies authorized in Europe. Rental cars are readily available.

Transportation

Agriculture. Both windmills and polders have been important to Dutch agriculture in the creation of arable land.

The Netherlands boasts an excellent free public highway system, comparable to the interstate system in the U.S. A personal car is still the cheapest method of transportation for a family. It makes trips in Holland and Europe affordable. If sold in the Netherlands, American cars must be converted to conform to Dutch laws. Nonetheless, they are popular; service and parts are available in The Hague. The availability of super lead-free, Euro (lead-free) and leaded gasoline throughout the Ne therl ands makes t aking an American car a practical alternative. The roads in the Netherlands are good. The Dutch drive on the right and follow other customary European traffic rules. The Dutch recognize U.S.-issued licenses. You can obtain an international drivers license upon presentation of a valid U.S. drivers license through a local automobile club. An international drivers license in itself is not a valid document for driving. It mu st always be used in addition to a valid drivers license.

Dutch agriculture, due to severely limited availability of farmland, is primarily a conversion industry. It utilizes large ports to import feedstuffs, transforms them into dairy and meat products, and exports about three-fourths of these products to fellow members of the Europ e a n C o m m u n i t y. L i v e s t o c k (including dairy) production

Cars imported into the Netherlands must have license plates. The Netherlands does not issue temporary tags. A car imported into the Netherlands without plates may not be used until the Dutch registration is received. The procedure can take two to three months. Third party or liability insurance is required by law and must be obtained through a

Biking is a common method of transportation in Dutch society. Holland boasts an extensive dedicated network of bike paths which separate cyclists from cars. Bikes, from cheap to very expensive, may be rented at most railway stations in Holland. Either biking or using public transportation avoids the common problems of congestion and parking in the urban areas of the Netherlands.

Local The public transportation system in the Netherlands is excellent. Trams and buses service points within cities on frequent schedules. Using public transportation avoids the problems of congested roads and the scarcity or parking. Public transportation is not expensive and you can save money by buying multiple ride tickets or monthly passes. Trams and buses do not run between 1 am and 5 am. Taxicabs, although plentiful and available by night or day, do not cruise and are expensive. Taxis line up in front of the train stations, some hotels, and after cultural events, but often one must phone for cab service. Most Dutch cities are connected by rail and most regions are accessible by other sorts of public transportation.

Regional Schiphol International Airport is located about 45 minutes from The Hague, 35 minutes from Amsterdam, and is serviced by several U.S. airlines. There are direct flights aboard U.S. carriers to major East 419

The Netherlands Coast, Southern, Great Lakes' and West Coast cities. Many airlines fly between the principal European cities, and daily express rail service is available between The Hague, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Antwerp, Brussels, and Paris. Air travel within Europe remains expensive.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph The Netherlands telecommunications system is good but can lead to some frustrations for North American users. It may take as long as three weeks to establish phone service in The Hague, although the universal availability of mobile cell phones has considerably shortened this lead time. Direct-dial telephone service is available to the U.S. and throughout Western Europe, or calls can be booked through the long distance operator. Long distance and information services operators are multilingual. You can use a calling card to call numbers in the U.S. Calls placed this way are billed against a Master Card or Visa in dollars.

Radio and TV Radio and TV are enriched in the Netherlands by programs from many of the surrounding countries. It's possible to find radio programs in French, German, and English as well as Dutch on a normal AM receiver. BBC at 648 on the AM dial offers English language news throughout the day. Good classical and jazz music stations can be found in addition to popular music, rock music and talk stations. Eight Dutch TV channels are on the air: Nederland 1, 2 and 3, Veronica, SBS-6 RTL-5 and 5 and TV West. Much of their programming is in English. English language TV shows are broadcast with Dutch subtitles, and commercials are few. Cable TV provides access to Belgian, West German, French, and British stations as well. The number of English-language channels broadcasting to Europe has increased greatly, bringing more music and American programming to the Netherlands. Cable is univer420

Cities of the World sally available. CNN Europe is available by cable throughout Holland. NBC World is also available in Amsterdam and Wassenaar.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Most Dutch bookstores offer a variety of books in English. International editions of Time, Newsweek, Life, USA Today, and the Herald Tribune are sold locally. Popular U. S. m a g a z i n e s - p a r t i c u l a r l y women's magazines such as Vogue, Ladies' Home Journal, and Glamour are sold at newsstands, but at double U.S. prices. The U.S. Army Base at Schinnen has a small bookstore that offers a mixed batch of American paperbacks, reference books of various sorts, and children's books. The American Women's Club of The Hague maintains a library of about 3,000 volumes with a special children's book section. It also carries a good range of newly released fiction and nonfiction books. In addition to these sources, most Dutch public libraries have some English language books.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Dutch doctors and hospitals are good. A general practitioner can treat the entire family, make house calls when necessary, and refer a patient to a specialist when needed. Access to specialists is restricted, however and delays in treatment are to be expected. Specialists are well trained in their fields and all specialties are represented. Good diagnostic clinics and laboratories are available. Common medical supplies may be obtained on short notice. The Dutch rely little on pain medication or tranquilizers and avoid using antibiotics unless they are clearly convinced of their necessity. Hospitals are well spaced throughout the cities, making them easy to find in an emergency. Most of the larger city hospitals are modern, with up-to-date equipment. Although dental training and techniques differ from those in the U.S., dental work, including orthodontics,

is usually good and compares favorably with U.S. prices. Eye testing a n d c a r e i s r e a d i l y av a i l a b l e ; glasses are expensive.

Community Health Dutch cities are as clean as our cleanest American cities. Garbage is collected once or twice a week and the water supply is good. Public eating places, butcher shops, and dairi e s a r e i n s p e c t e d r e g u l a r l y. Although most Temperate Zone diseases occur, no particular ailment is peculiar to this area. Sporadic cases of typhoid and mild epidemics of influenza occur. Some jaundice, sinusitis, and poliomyelitis exist here, as in other European countries. People with lung, bronchial, and skin disorders suffer in this climate.

Preventive Measures All standard immunizations are available at local hospitals and medical facilities. Vitamin supplements may be useful, particularly in winter when sunshine is minimal.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Holy Saturday Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Apr. 30. . . . . . . . . . Queen's Birthday May 5 . . . . . . . . . . Liberation Day May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Pentecost May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday Dec. 25 & 26 . . . . . Christmas *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties United, Delta and Northwest are the American carriers currently flying to Schipol Airport from the U.S. Daily flights depart New York, Boston or Washington, D.C.

The Netherlands

Cities of the World A passport is required. A visa is not required for U.S. citizens for visits up to 90 days. For further information on entry requirements for the Netherlands, travelers may contact the Embassy of the Netherlands at 4200 Linnean Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone (202) 244-5300, or the Dutch consulate in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, or San Francisco. Additional information is available at h t t p : / / w w w. n e t h e r l a n d s embassy.org and the Netherlands Bureau for Tourism in New York at http://www.goholland.com. Seat belt and child seat use is compulsory. Driving is on the right side of the road. The maximum speed limit on highways is 120 km/h, with a highway speed limit of 100 km/h posted in most urban areas. Secondary roads have a speed limit of 80 km/h. The speed limit in towns and cities is 50 km/h, with 30 km/h posted in residential areas. Drivers must yield the right-of-way to drivers from the right at intersections or traffic circles, unless otherwise posted. The maximum allowable blood alcohol level in the Netherlands is 0.5. Use of cellular telephones while driving is discouraged. Lanes at the center of many urban two-way streets are reserved for buses, trams, and taxis. In cities, pedestrians should be very mindful of trams, which often cross or share b i c y cl e a n d pe d e s t r i a n p a t h s. Motorists must be especially mindful of the priority rights of bicyclists. Pedestrians should also pay particular attention not to walk along bicycle paths, which are often on the sidewalk and usually designated by red pavement. Americans living in or visiting the Netherlands are encouraged to register at the Consulate General in

Amsterdam and obtain updated information on travel and security i n t h e N e t h e r l a n d s. T h e U. S. Embassy is located in The Hague, at Lange Voorhout 102; telephone (31)(20) 310-9209. However, all requests for consular assistance should be directed to the Consulate General in Amsterdam at Museumplein 19, telephone (31)(20) 6645661, (31)(20) 679-0321, or (31)(20) 575-5309. The after-hours emergency telephone number is (31)(70) 310-9499. The U.S. Embassy and Consulate General web site at http:/ /www.usemb.nl answers many questions of interest to Americans visiting or residing in the Netherlands.

Pets No restrictions exist on importing pets. Dogs and cats must have a health certificate issued by a veterinarian in the animal's country of origin (this includes U.S. Army veterinarians stationed in the county of origin). The certificate must state in Dutch, German, French, or English that the dog or cat has been vaccinated against rabies using a vaccine approved in the country of manufacture, the manufacturer, and the type of vaccine (live or dead). The certificate must also provide a complete description of the animal (species, age, breed, gender, weight, color, and markings), the owner's name, and the owner's address. The certificate must also state that the rabies vaccine was administered at least 30 days, but not more than 1 year, before the date of arrival in the Netherlands. Arrangements can be made through KLM to receive pets and to see that they are placed in a kennel until you c a n p i c k t h e m u p. A f e e o f i s imposed for transport to the kennel, and kennels' charges are comparable to those in the U.S.

Currency, Banking and Weights and Measures As a member of the European Community, the monetary unit in The Netherlands is the euro, which is divided into 100 cent. Coins in circulation are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 & 2 euro. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The exchange rate approximates 1.15 euro to $1 US.

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material available on this country: At Home in Holland. American Women's Club: The Hague, 1984. Erickson, Patricia G. Roaming Round Holland. City of Rotterdam Information Department: Rotterdam, 1985. Lijphart, Arend. The Politics of Accommodation: Pluralism and Democracy in the Netherlands. University of California Press: Berkeley, 1968. Mulisch, Harry. The Assault. Pantheon: 1985. Newton, Gerald. The Netherlands: An Historical and Cultural Survey, 1795-1977. Ernest Benn Ltd.: London, 1978. Schama, Simon. The Embarrassment of Riches: An Interpretation of Dutch Culture in the Golden Age. Alfred A. Knopf: New York, 1987. Voorhoeve, Joris. Peace, Profits and Principles: A Study of Dutch Foreign Policy. M. Nijhoff: Dordrecht/ Boston, 1979.

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Oslo, Norway

NORWAY Kingdom of Norway

Major Cities: Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Stavanger, Tromsø, Kristiansand Other Cities: Ålesund, Arendal, Bodo, Drammen, Halden, Hamar, Haugesund, Kristiansund, Lillehammer, Molde, Porsgrunn, Roros, Sandnes, Skien, Tonsberg

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Norway. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION During the 1994 Winter Olympic Games in Lillehammer, NORWAY, the world focused on this stunning country for two weeks. The breathtaking scenery from the Olympic coverage captivated the world’s imagination. Norway is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful countries in the world. The landscape includes spectacular fjords and mountain ranges, tranquil lakes and forests, bustling cities and quaint towns. For the lover of natural beauty and outdoor life, Norway is a virtual paradise. Like its other Scandinavian neighbors, Norway enjoys one of the highest standards of living in the world. A sound industrial economy plus a

powerful boost from North Sea oil gives the country a firm financial base. The government runs a comprehensive, first-class social welfare program that includes socialized education, health care, pensions, and workmen’s’ compensation. A combination of high taxes and an especially high tax on the oil revenues allows the government to maintain this level of service while running a budget surplus. In short, Norway has the best of both worlds—a thriving capitalist economy and a heavily socialized system to take care of the population. No other country in the world manages simultaneously to succeed at both so well. In late 1994, Norway held its second referendum on whether or not to join the European Union (EU). The first referendum in 1972 was hotly debated and Norway narrowly decided against membership. This time, the Prime Minister, Gro Harlem Brundtland, led the movement in favor of joining, arguing that Norway should choose to be an active part of an ever more unified European future. An unlikely combinat i o n o f t h e L a b o r Pa r t y, environmentalists and the conservative rural population joined together to oppose membership. In a very close vote, Norwegians for the second time chose not to enter the EU. The future will show the effects

of this decision. Meanwhile, the government is hard at work trying to keep an active role for Norway in the EU even though Norway is not a voting member. The U.S. and Norway have an enormous amount in common and the cultures overlap in many ways. Up to eight million Americans (especially in the Midwest and Pacific northwest) are of Norwegian descent. American movies, clothing styles, music, foods, book and magazines are available on every corner. A recent feature story in Norway’s largest newspaper stated that Norway is more “American” than any other European country. It is true, and the signs are visible everywhere. Still, Norway has a distinct national character that both delights and surprises. The Norwegians are a proud and determined people with a rich and unique history, and they are not afraid to stand alone and challenge world opinion over issues they care deeply about. Recent discussions of EU membership and of whaling both call this facet of the Norwegian spirit to mind. Right or wrong, this Norwegian independence is something one cannot help but admire. 423

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MAJOR CITIES Oslo Oslo, with a population of about a half-million people, is Norway’s capital as well as its largest city. In addition to being the seat of government, Oslo is also the business and cultural capital of the nation. Oslo lies in the shape of a horseshoe at the head of the Oslo Fjord. The city covers an area of 167 square miles between the shoreline and surrounding hills. The horseshoe opens out onto the fjord which stretches about 60 miles between forested hills and farmlands down to the open sea. The city is spectacular during spring and summer when flowers blossom in parks, around public buildings and on almost every window ledge. Winter’s landscape brings a crystalline beauty of its own. Oslo is home to many Americans. The Consular Section has 15,000 Americans registered and there could be as many as 25,000 dual citizenship Norwegian-Americans in Norway.

Food In general, food availability and variety in Norway are excellent. The economy offers a wide range of food-shopping options, from small bakeries and gourmet coffee boutiques to large American-style supermarkets. Most everything in the standard American diet is readily available, although it is likely to cost a lot more. Fresh fruit and vegetables are largely imported and of very good quality. They are available yearround, but the selection can become more limited during the winter months. Local dairy products are always available and their quality is consistently excellent. In addition, one can easily find a large assortment of imported cheeses. Fresh, first-quality meat and fish are always available, but the cuts and selection differ from what one would 424

Akershus Fortress over Oslo’s harbor

find in the U.S. One can buy a variety of newly-baked, wonderful breads, rolls and cakes in the ubiquitous bakeries. A limited assortment of canned and bottled baby food is available, but it is almost exclusively mixed dinners or blended fruit. The quality is similar to American baby food, and as with everything else, the price is much higher. Infant formula is available on the local economy in powdered form only and is the type meant for newborns. There appears to be no market in Norway for the graduated formulas, with and without iron, etc., that Americans use.

Clothing The quality of clothing available in Oslo is excellent. Prices are 30–50 percent higher than in the U.S. for comparable “top-of-the-line” items. Very few bargains are available in children’s clothing items. Sales occur in July and August and again in the spring. Shoes are often very expensive and tend to come only in wide widths. A varied selection of sturdy winter boots is available, again only in the wider widths. Downhill and cross-country ski wear and equipment are available locally but you may not find a good fit if you need an unusual size. The

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

quality is excellent, and frequent sales do appear for these items. Prices for skiwear and equipment are often less for European brands than in the U.S. Used ski equipment and some clothing (especially for children) are available in Oslo at various loppemarkeds (flea markets). Down jackets and coats are very expensive locally. Dry cleaning is extremely expensive by U.S. standards. Plan to bring clothing that is machine washable and easy to iron.

Men: Men should bring wool suits, sweaters, scarves, gloves, heavy overcoats and fur-lined or other boots. Good rubber boots are available locally, but overshoes should be purchased in the U.S. Dress shirts are expensive. The local selection of ties is excellent, and prices compare with the U.S. A raincoat (preferably washable) with a zip-out liner is invaluable. Bring some lightweight apparel for warm summer days. Some people call navy blazers the “winter uniform” because so many Norwegians wear them.

Women: Women in Norway dress informally during the day but more formally for evening events than in the U.S. Winter clothes should include woolens, warm suits, sweat-

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Cities of the World ers, scarves, gloves, heavy overcoats and fur-lined or other boots. Slacks and pant suits are often worn, but jeans are worn only for very informal occasions. Some summer days and evenings can be cool, but you should bring light clothing for the short summer season. Women will find a raincoat with a hood (preferably washable) and a zip-out lining invaluable. Lingerie can be purchased in Norway, but prices are much higher than in the U.S. Pantyhose and stockings are fairly priced but sizes and colors may be different than in the U.S.

Children: L o c a l l y a v a i l a b l e infant’s and children’s clothing is of extremely good quality and is also extremely expensive. Norwegian winter clothing seems sturdier and warmer than U.S. brands. Children’s shoes and boots are wider than in the U.S. and can cost $50–$80 per pair. Sneakers and running shoes are available, but cost more than in the U.S.

Supplies and Services You can get everything you need, be it supplies or services, on the local economy. You should bring a supply of prescription medicines because it may take that much time to make arrangements at a local pharmacy for a continued supply. You should also bring a supply of special or favorite cosmetics. Most standard services are available on the economy but expensive and sometimes slow. Beauty/barber shops are plentiful. Shoe repair and radio repair are available. Local dry cleaning takes 4–7 days, is expensive and can fall below stateside standards for delicate items like silk and leather. Fur cleaning and storage can be arranged at fur stores. Laundries provide satisfactory but e x p e n s i v e w o r k . Fa s t s e r v i c e increases the price. A few Laundromats can be found, but the prices ($6–$8 a wash load) are exorbitant.

Religious Services Norway’s state religion is Lutheranism, and virtually all Norwegian citizens adhere to this faith at least nominally, although regular church attendance is low. There are also a number of churches offering services in Oslo in English, including Lutheran, Catholic, Jewish, Latter Day Saints, Baptist, Christian Science, Quaker and Anglican services.

Education The Oslo International School (OIS) offers a British-type academic program for children ages 3 to 18. OIS also offers an International Baccalaureate (IB) degree program. Located in Bekkestua (a suburb of Oslo), enrollment is open to children of all nationalities who are in Oslo for a short period of time and are interested in English-language instruction. The Primary and Secondary schools are comprised of three departments: Infants, Juniors and Seniors. The Infants Department offers instruction to children 3 to 7 years of age. All children are placed in classes according to their age as of September 1: Kindergarten—3 years of age Reception—4 years of age Year 1—5 years of age Year 2—6 years of age This scheme is somewhat similar to the American education program of two years of preschool, a year of kindergarten, and the first grade. The OIS kindergarten program is designed to help children mix and work happily with other children, gain control over actions and movements, and stimulate an interest in learning. The time is divided into story, music, rhythmics and free play both outdoors and indoors. Instruction is provided in handwork, painting, modeling and physical education. The Reception and Year 1 and 2 programs follow the normal curriculum

for British schools as does the Junior program for children ages 7 to 10. The Junior program is comprised of: Year 3—7 years of age Year 4—8 years of age Year 5—9 years of age Year 6—10 years of age Foundation subjects are English, Mathematics, Science, History, Geography, Technology, Music, Art, and Physical Education. The children also have computer studies. French is introduced from the age of 9 years. During the winter, children take cross-country ski lessons as part of the physical education program. Norwegian language instruction was recently introduced. Students enter the Secondary School at age 11 and graduate at age 18 with an IB degree, with the program consisting of: Senior 1 (Year 7)—11 years of age Sr 2 (Year 8)—12 years of age Sr 3 (Year 9)—13 years of age Sr 4 (Year 10)—14 years of age Sr 5 (Year 11)—15 years of age IB 1 (Year 12)—16 years of age IB 2 (Year 13) —17 years of age Curriculum subjects include: English, Mathematics, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, History, Geography, French, Art, Handwork, Music, Physical Education, Computer Studies, Drama, Classical Studies, Typewriting and Norwegian. During Years 7–9, the children take a course in each subject area. In Years 10–11 students follow a two-year curriculum leading to the “International General Certificate of Secondary Education” (IGSCE) examination. IGSCE is used by schools in over 90 countries and has been recognized as a qualification for matriculation purposes by universities in the United Kingdom and in many other countries. Years 12 and 13 are also referred to as IB 1 and IB 2. Students in these years participate in the International Baccalaureate (IB) program, an international pre-university curriculum. The International Bacca425

Norway laureate was created to provide international schools with both an appropriate common curriculum at the upper secondary school level and a matriculation examination which has wide acceptability. Each year various outings and trips are arranged for the Seniors, both in Norway and abroad. The students also visit theaters and exhibitions. In the month of February, Years 6–9 spend a week at winter camp. The Oslo International School has two campuses. The Kindergarten, Reception and Year 1 and 2 classes are collocated within close proximity to the Junior and Senior school campus. Each campus has a large play area with modern play equipment. They also both have libraries with a wide variety of British and American children’s literature, reference materials and other publications. The Junior and Senior school has a gymnasium with a full basketball court and gymnastic equipment. The Infants school has a small gymnasium. Situated between the two campuses and within short walking distance is the Nadderudhallen sports complex and the Bcerum Commune (community) soccer fields, baseball fields, track and tennis courts. The Naderudhallen sports complex has a large heated swimming pool, bowling alley, and basketball courts. Children who attend the Oslo International School are often involved in sports programs at Nadderudhallen and the Bcerum Commune playing fields. The school year begins around the last week in August and ends in the third week of June. There is no school uniform but weather dictates that students wear clothing appropriate for outdoor play throughout the school year. Students will need boots, rain coats and rain pants during the fall and spring. Down parkas, ski pants, snow boots, ski gloves and hats are required in the winter. Students go outdoors to play everyday unless the temperature goes below minus 15 degrees Celsius (about 0 degrees Fahrenheit). 426

Cities of the World Children are required to bring a packed lunch and a pair of indoor (soft-soled) shoes. The Oslo International School has no program for children with special n e e d s. S p o r a d i c a l l y, s p e c i a l arrangements have been made for children with special needs on a case-by-case basis and within the standard classroom environment. Some individual and small-group instruction is provided to students who have difficulty in a particular subject area. There are French- and German-language schools located in downtown Oslo. They are considered excellent. (French, 6-18 years; German, 6-15 years). Local Norwegian schools are also available. English-language preschool education is also available at the Frogner International Preschool located in the American Lutheran Church in downtown Oslo. The school is open to children ages 3–7. The International Montessori Preschool has an excellent preschool program. There is a waiting list for admittance. There are two types of Norwegian preschool programs: the barnehage and barnepark. The barnehage is an indoor nursery school for children aged 1–6 with hours from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekdays. A barnehage is either privately owned or operated by a commune. The barnepark is similar but is outdoors, for children aged 1–4, and usually open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is quite difficult to enter a barnehage; preference is given to Norwegian children and there is always a long waiting list. It is less difficult to find space in a barnepark. Tuition for the barnehage and barnepark are reasonable in comparison to American day-care facilities. The American Women’s Club sponsors a Moms and Tots program for preschool children. There are other informal Moms and Tots groups within the English-speaking community in Oslo.

Sports Norway offers excellent and varied opportunities for recreation. Sports and outdoor activities can be found to fit almost any pursuit or interest. Practically all types of equipment are available in Oslo, but except for used items (skates, skis, bikes), it is fairly expensive. You should plan to bring equipment from the U.S. for all sports except skiing and skating. Cross-country skiing is the country’s major winter sport. It is also a way of life. Alpine (slalom) skiing and snow boarding are also very popular. The number of ski resorts with good lifts increases every year. Ski resorts like Geilo and Hemsedal are packed during Christmas and Easter holidays. All around Oslo you can find lighted cross-country ski trails, which make for a wonderful evening outing. Lessons taught in English or Norwegian are available for all ages and levels, including those who have no previous experience in skiing. Skis, boots, and poles are readily available on the economy and are one of the few true bargains in Norway. Many comfortable hotels, cabins and lodges in the mountains cater to winter sports enthusiasts. Hiking and camping are very popular in Norway. Hiking trails are marked on many maps. Norwegians love to take extended hiking trips with nightly stops in tents or cabins during the summer months. Good camping areas are available throughout the country during the warmer weather, but Norwegian camping areas (like many European camping spots) are often quite crowded by American standards. Norway offers superb areas for riding mountain bikes on dirt/ gravel roads. If you like to ride, purchase a bicycle prior to arriving as bicycles in Norway can be extremely expensive. Fishing is also a very popular summer sport. Many good streams can be found close to the Oslo area. Fishing for cod or other saltwater fish in the Oslo fjord or on the west coast of Norway does not require a

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Cities of the World license. Good equipment is available in Oslo. The national fishing license costs little, but you may encounter additional expenses since hotels or landowners control many of the best streams and may charge high fees for fishing rights. First-class trout and salmon fishing is at least a full day’s travel from Oslo and very expensive.

Children arriving to Oslo will find local Norwegian sports clubs that sponsor soccer, basketball, ice hockey and ice bandy teams. Spectator sports include soccer, track and field competitions, figure and speed skating competitions, horse racing and the internationally famous ski jumping competitions at Holmenkollen.

September and October are the months for hunting game birds such as grouse, duck and mountain grouse (ptarmigan). September is also the time for hunting moose, deer, and reindeer. Many hunting areas are controlled and access can be expensive.

Norway offers outstanding opportunities for the tourist and nature lover. The beautiful western fjord country can be reached by daily trains which connect Oslo year round with Trondheim and Bergen. Both routes traverse high mountain ranges and narrow valleys. Coastal steamers sail round trip from Bergen to the northern tip of the country at Kirkenes next to the Russian border. This relatively expensive round trip takes about 2 weeks. The ship stops at many points along the coast permitting many shorter side trips. The North Cape and Finnmark, Norway’s northernmost areas (the land of the midnight sun and northern lights), are also accessible by air. Main roads are kept open for auto traffic in winter except over the high mountains, where snow blocks the roads from October to June.

Sailing, rowing, and wind-surfing are popular summer sports. The Oslo fjord is painted white with sails by 4 pm. on summer afternoons. Boat rentals and sail-board rentals and lessons are available. Canoeing and kayaking are also popular. The one challenging golf course, 20 minutes from downtown Oslo, charges a membership fee. Greens fees apply for nonmembers. Nonmembers wishing to play on weekends must be members of some other golf club and have a valid membership card. An American golf club membership can be obtained at reduced rates. Summer is usually warm enough for swimming in the fjords and nearby lakes. Indoor pools are available during all seasons. A heated outdoor pool at Frogner Park in Oslo is open from May to mid-September. Swimming instruction for children is offered throughout the year. Oslo has good indoor and outdoor tennis c o u r t s a n d b a d m i n t o n c o u r t s. Squash and racquetball courts are growing in number. Active bowling teams are found in the American community. Several curling clubs encourage enthusiasts. Two stables are available. The cost is high, and you should bring riding clothes from the U.S. Many bicycle paths are open for Oslo’s numerous cyclists. Bicycle rental is available at Aker Brygge.

The Oslo area is full of parks and museums, ancient rock carvings, old stave churches and lovely views of the countryside. Popular seaside towns along the outer fjord’s west coast (Sorlandet) are only a few hours by rail or automobile from Oslo. A 3–7 hour train ride takes you to the highest mountain ranges for fishing, hiking and mountain climbing in summer or skiing in winter. Regularly scheduled buses and fjord ferries supplement train services to many towns and popular s k i c e n te r s. E v e r y N o r w e g i a n dreams of owning at least one “hytte” (cabin) in the mountains and one by the sea. They love to enjoy nature both in winter and summer. Cabins can be rented for vacations. These cabins cost fairly little and provide a rather primitive but charming way to experience the Norwegian countryside.

Norway has some 200 small hotels, private log cabins and camping sites available for those who do not have a hytte. Hotels are quite expensive and generally crowded. The Norwegian Tourist Association operates inexpensive lodges in all the principal mountain ranges for hikers. The lodges, situated a day’s walk apart along well-marked trails, offer meals and overnight accommodations.

Entertainment Oslo is a pleasant family town. Most Norwegians spend their weekends skiing, boating, hiking or relaxing with their families at home or at their cabins. This makes it difficult to entertain Norwegians on weekends. American families in Norway tend to follow the same pattern. Yet Oslo also offers a range of things to do and see for those less interested in the out-of-doors. Sight-seeing attractions include the striking Viking ships, Thor Heyerdahl’s raft “Kon-Tiki,” Nansen’s vessel “Fram,” the Holmenkollen ski jump and museum, and the outdoor Folk Museum. The Vigeland and Munch museums are excellent tributes to these world-famous Norwegian artists. Many other museums offer art and scientific attractions. Art exhibits in the traditional and contemporary styles can be found in several galleries. The Henie-Onstad Art Center in nearby Sandvika pres e n t s c o n c e r t s, f i l m s a n d a r t exhibits. Winter musical events include the Oslo Philharmonic Orchestra’s regular concerts which often feature internationally known performers. The Norwegian Opera presents a series of opera and ballet performances each season and features guest performers. The Concert Hall schedules many internationally recognized artists. Musical highlights outside Oslo include the annual Bergen International Music Festival and annual festivals in Molde and Kongsberg for jazz lovers. Some 20 movie theaters present American, English and other foreign-language films. Films are 427

Norway screened with original soundtracks and Norwegian subtitles. Norwegian children under 7 are rarely admitted to movie theaters because they cannot read. Some neighborhood theaters will admit American children regardless of their ages when accompanied by their parents. Four theaters produce modern and classical Norwegian dramas. Plays are occasionally in English. Two English-language drama groups perform several times a year. Puppet theaters for children are popular. These programs are usually in Norwegian, but most young children can follow the story. Oslo has an ever-growing restaurant population. Restaurants tend to be very expensive by U.S. standards. An average meal for one without beer or wine will cost about 150 Norwegian kroner ($25) while a full meal without drinks at a first rate restaurant will average 400 Norwegian kroner ($60). Nevertheless, an increasing number of moderately priced restaurants are opening in the Oslo area. Some of these restaurants stay open until midnight. Oslo has three McDonald’s (with typically high Oslo prices), a Burger King and a Pizza Hut. Several other similar fast-food restaurants sell hamburgers, pizzas and ribs. Typical Norwegian cuisine includes reindeer meat, pickled fish specialties, codfish or salmon dishes. Oslo has a variety of nightclubs with dance floors. Beware though: a single beer cost between $5.00 and $7.50! Most clubs are open until 3 a.m. and many do a thriving business. The University of Oslo offers English-language courses on Norwegian history and culture, and several local clubs sponsor more specialized courses. Many schools and local communities provide excellent Norwegian language courses and have classes in arts and crafts or sewing taught in English. The International Forum has a broad range of activities for women 428

Cities of the World in the Oslo area, including lectures, concerts, courses, and tours to places of interest. There are a few American social clubs in Oslo. The American Women’s Club (AWC) was founded in 1934 as a social and philanthropic organization for American women living in Norway. AWC has approximately 300 members. The American Coordinating Council of Norway (ACCN) is a nonprofit counc i l o f A me r i c a n o r g a n i za t i o n s founded in 1985. The Fourth-of-July celebration in Frogner Park is the main activity of ACCN. The American Club of Oslo is a 36-year-old club comprised of 300 members and structured to promote American business interests in Norway.

Bergen Bergen, capital of the Vestlandet (West Land), is Norway’s second largest city, with a population of 211,000. Nestled against steep hills on one side and facing the North Sea on the other, it is the westernmost city in the country, and the major shipping and fishing center. The original town was founded by King Olav Kyrre in 1070, but was destroyed three times by devastating fires, the most recent in 1916. During the Middle Ages, it was the northern outpost of the Hanseatic League, a powerful mercantile confederacy of German towns. Bergen is a commercial and industrial city, providing ships, steel, textiles, electrical equipment, fish, and refined oil. It is also a fascinating city of hilly, cobbled streets; high-gabled, wooden warehouses; an ancient harbor market, called Torget; good shopping, especially for handcrafted silver and furs; extensive cultural activities; and many opportunities for sightseeing. Its historical sites include the Bergenhus Fortress, which houses the i mpo si n g H å k o n sh a l l e n ( Ki n g Håkon’s Hall), built in 1261. The fortress was restored after being damaged during World War II. The Mariakirkin, a 12th-century

church with twin steeples, is a highlight for visitors, as is the Fantoft Stave Church, which was built during that same period. Fantoft was restored and moved here in 1833 from its original site at Fortun. Not to be forgotten is “Bryggen,” Scandinavia’s hanseatic trade center, now on the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and C ultural Or ganization ’s (UNESCO) list of world sights most worthy of preservation. Troldhaugen, the home of composer Edvard G r i e g, i s a n a t i o n a l s h r i n e i n nearby Hop. Bergen has much to offer the tourist. In addition to skiing, salmon and trout fishing, hiking, golf, and tennis, there are sight-seeing tours by bus or boat, and trips by coastal steamers which sail to the northern tip of the country at Kirkenes, on the Russian border. Each year, from late May and until mid-June, the Bergen International Festival of concerts, ballet, drama, and folklore draws thousands of visitors to the city. It is a major undertaking, known for the quality of its productions and for the celebrity of the international artists who are featured. The famed Harmonien, one of the world’s oldest philharmonic orchestras (more than 200 years), and Den Nationale Scene, the nation’s oldest theater, are here in Bergen. The university founded at Bergen in 1948 has become one of Norway’s leading educational centers. Its school of Economics and Business Administration is the only one of its kind in Norway. There also are several scientific institutes in the city. The Bergen airport, 12 miles south of the city center, is served by domestic and international flights. The Bergen Tourist Board is located at Slottsgt. 1, N-5023 Bergen. An information office is open in central Bergen on Torgalmenning.

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

View of Bergen from Mt. Floien

Education Th e B e r g e n A m er i c a n S ch o o l , located at Skolegaten 1, Laksevag, is a private institution whose enrollment is open to English-speaking children. International School of Bergen is a coeducational, private day school founded in 1975. It offers an American/British curriculum for pre-kindergarten through ninth grade. French and Norwegian are taught as foreign languages; other elective studies include computer instruction, art, and physical education. Extracurricular activities and a variety of sports are offered. Current enrollment at International numbers 95, with the many students from the United Kingdom. There are 14 full-time and one parttime staff members. International School of Bergen is situated on a five-acre campus on a

lake just outside of the city. Facilities include three buildings, nine classrooms, playing fields, two gymnasiums, science and computer laboratories, a swimming pool, and a 4,500-volume library. The school’s address is: Vilhelm Bjerknesvei 15, 5030 Landas, Bergen, Norway.

Trondheim Trondheim (Trondhjem), in central Norway, was known as Nidaros when it was the country’s first capital. Although it is a modern industrial and agricultural center of 137,300 inhabitants, Trondheim still bears the marks of its medieval history. It was founded in 997 and, until 1380, was the national capital. The city was occupied by the Germans on the first day of the Norway invasion, April 9, 1940, and was held through the spring of 1945. Trondheim was one of the major centers of the Norwegian resistance movement.

Its 11th-century cathedral, Nidaros, restored after being damaged several times by major fires, is the finest Gothic edifice in Norway, as well as Trondheim’s principal landmark. Stiftsgården, a royal palace built in the 18th century, is also located here. Trondheim is noted for its Academy of Sciences and for its technical institute, Tekniske Hogskole. It is a busy industrial city, but still it attracts winter sports enthusiasts, and also visitors who enjoy its warm summers (unusual in northern Europe). A nine-hole golf course at Sommerseter holds an annual midnight tournament at about the time of summer solstice (June 21 or 22). There are art galleries and museums in Trondheim, and an abundance of good hotels, restaurants, shops, and cinemas. Several excursions are possible in the area, including trips to 429

Norway

Cities of the World

Gamble Bybro Old Town Bridge over Nidelva River in Trondheim

Munkholmen Island in the fjord, the site of an early Christian abbey and, in earlier times, a pagan place of ex e cu ti o n ; to th e Tro l l h e i m e n Mountains (a 225-mile drive); to Stiklestad, where an annual festival of plays takes place in late July; or to Oppdal, Norway’s “alpine” town.

of large buildings, bustling traffic, beaches, shops, and streets lined with churches. Its Anglo-Norman cathedral, dating to the 12th century, is among Norway’s most interesting medieval buildings, as is the Utstein Kloster (cloister), located on an island just beyond the city.

Information is available from the Tourist Office at Hornemannsgarden, Town Square.

Stavanger has an American population of more than 4,000, most of them connected with the oil industry. Like Trondheim, Stavanger was occupied on the first day of the Germ a n i n v a s i o n o f N o r wa y, a n d remained under German control for more than five years.

Stavanger Stavanger is Norway’s fourth largest city (97,500) and the headquarters of the North Sea oil fleet. It is situated in the southwestern part of the country, on the Byfjord, and is the seat of Rogaland, the district from which Norway was made into one kingdom. It is the southernmost gateway to the fjord country. Stavanger has several important industries, but probably is best known as the sardine canning capital of the world. It is a modern city 430

Sola Airport is about nine miles from Stavanger, and the city terminal is in town at the SAS Royal Atlantic Hotel. The Tourist Information Office is located on Jernbanevej.

Education It is possible for American children to attend Norwegian public schools,

© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

where subjects are comparable to those taught in the U.S. Classes are in Norwegian, but children with language difficulty receive special assistance. There are two English-language schools in the city. The Stavanger British School enrolls students from kindergarten to the seventh grade, while the Stavanger American School hold classes for pre-kindergarten through grade 12. The International School of Stavanger (formerly the Stavanger American School), a coeducational, private institution, sponsored by oil companies, follows an American and British curriculum. French, Spanish, and Norwegian are offered as foreign languages; there are advanced placement, independent study, and remedial programs. Extracurricular and sports activities are numerous. Total enrollment currently stands at 322; the teaching staff of 31 full

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Cities of the World time and four part-time is almost entirely American. Founded in 1966, it is situated on 15 acres in the western part of the city. Facilities include 36 classrooms, gymnasiums and playing fields, science and computer laboratories, an auditorium, and a 15,000-volume library. The school’s address is: Treskeveien 3, 4042 Hafrsfjord, Norway.

Tromsø Tromsø, with a population of 50,500, is the largest city above the Arctic Circle. It is situated on an island and joined to the mainland by the longest bridge in northern Europe. The island is in a spectacular fjord area, on the same latitude as northern Alaska, but its climate is tempered by the waters of the Gulf Stream. In summer, it is not unusual for the temperature to reach 77°F (25°C).

Tromsø Bridge and cathedral

some British newspapers. There is single-channel television reception.

As the chief seaport of Arctic Norway, Tromsø is a base for seal hunters and a starting point for many cruise ships and exploratory expeditions. The city is justifiably proud of its designation, “Gateway to the Arctic,” since it has been the starting point for many Arctic explorations. A number of herring fisheries are located here, and other important industries include shipbuilding and rope manufacturing.

Tromsø has no school for Englishspeaking children but, as in other cities throughout the country, they are eligible to attend the local, wellregarded Norwegian schools. Some parents supplement that schooling with U.S. correspondence courses from the Calvert (kindergarten through grade eight) and University of Nebraska (high school) systems. Varied adult education classes are available in the city.

The city is the site of the famed Observatory of Northern Lights, and is noted also for the excellent exhibits of regional geology, fauna, and traditional Lapp activities at the Tromsø Arctic Museum. Cultural life is limited, but Tromsø supports an enthusiastic amateur city orchestra, two movie theaters, and one dramatic theater.

Recreational possibilities, especially for winter sports and fishing, are numerous. There are lighted crosscountry and downhill ski slopes, indoor tennis courts, and swimming pools. The city has a disproportional large number of restaurants for a place of its size.

Tromsø University, the world’s northernmost university, has been established here. Its library has a good selection of books in English; the city library maintains a small collection of English-language children’s books, as well as some current best-sellers and a sprinkling of English-language publications in several fields. Newsstands sell the International Herald Tribune and

The Tourist Information Office is located on Dampskipskaia.

Kristiansand Kristiansand, in the southernmost part of Norway, is a busy commercial center and holiday resort, set in a beautiful archipelago with sheltered coves and white beaches. Its population of more than 64,800 makes it the country’s fifth largest city.

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Kristiansand, as a town, dates back to 1641, when it was chartered by the Danish-Norwegian king, Christian IV. It has been ravaged several times by fire, the most severe in 1892, and few of its timber buildings remain. The town square was built by Christian IV; streets surrounding it are the same width that they were in 1641. At the northeastern part of the square is the largest section of wooden homes in Northern Europe. There also are interesting museums; old churches, including Odderness Church, built in 1040; and the Christiansholm Castle (1674). Kristiansand Dyrepark (animal park) is noted for the breeding of camels—unusual in this part of the world. The city offers a broad range of opportunities for shopping and recreation, and a good selection of restaurants and hotels. The local specialty, kompe—salted meat enveloped in boiled, grated potatoes—may be purchased at several street stalls. Kristiansand has two cinemas, a theater, and a symphony orchestra, whose season runs from September through May. An annual church festival is held in June. Kjevik Airport is about nine miles from the center of town. Direct Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) connections are available to Copen431

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Cities of the World shoals of herring were found off the coast in the 1860s, bringing trade and prosperity, and subsequent industry. The town was severely damaged in World War II, but has b e e n s pa c i o u s l y a n d c a r e f u l l y rebuilt. There is a Tourist Information Office at 16 Storgaten.

Bridge and city of Kristiansund

OTHER CITIES

ARENDAL, a southern Norwegian seaport, is 125 miles southwest of Oslo on the Skagerrak (the arm of the east-central North Sea). This town of 11,500 is known for its combination of ancient and modern streets, old wooden houses, and new concrete buildings. Landmarks include the 19th-century town hall, which houses a portrait gallery today, and Trinity Church, with its towering spire. Just outside of Arendal is the 70-foot waterfall, Rykenefoss. Arendal is a departure point for ships crossing the Skagerrak to Hirtshals, Denmark.

ÅLESUND (or Aalesund) is Norway’s principal fishing center, with a fleet operating between the Baffin Islands and the Barents Sea. Ålesund is the headquarters of the Arctic sealing fleet and the site of one of Scandinavia’s largest dairies. It is situated in the western fjord area, on an island between Bergen and Trondheim. Dating from the ninth century, Ålesund is a city of 36,000, noted especially for its well-preserved Jugendstil (art nouveau) buildings. The Sunnmore Museum in the city has an interesting collection of boats and finds from Viking settlements. The municipal park, with its statue of Rollo (the first duke of Normandy), is a gift from the citizens of Rouen, France.

BODO, 50 miles north of the polar circle, is a prosperous trade center with a population of 36,000. Although it is situated on the same latitude as the northern parts of Alaska and Siberia, it is warmed by the Gulf Stream, whose currents flow along the rugged Norwegian coastline. Situated at the head of the Salt Fjord in a central location in northern Norway, Bodo is the educational, administrative, and commercial center of Nordland County, and also has become a tourist resort; cruise ships and coastal steamers call here on their way to the North Cape. A new luxury hotel has been added to the accommodations. Bodo was founded in 1816, but did not begin to grow until

hagen and Ålborg (both in Denmark). Kristiansand has good local bus service. As the communications center for Norway’s southern region, is has daily ferry arrivals from the continent, as well as a railway line that links the eastern and western parts of the country. The Tourist Office in Kristiansand is at 31 Gyldenlovesgate.

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© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

DRAMMEN, the county capital of Buskerud in southern Norway, is famous for the Spiraltoppen, a steep tunnel involving six spiral turns inside Bragenesåsen Hill; at the summit are a lookout and a café. T h e c i t y, w h o s e p o p u l a t i o n i s approximately 51,900, has several industries, including sawmills and paper mills, and factories which produce electronic equipment. HALDEN (formerly called Fredrikshald), 50 miles south of Oslo in the extreme southeastern tip of Norway, is an ancient city. Its modern history can be traced to the 1660s (it was referred to as Fredrikshald from 1665 to 1928), when the city repelled Swedish attacks from the ramparts of its Fredriksten Fort. King Charles XII of Sweden died here in 1718. The separation of Sweden and Norway in 1905 led to the deactivation of the fort. Halden’s economy depends on light industry; adjacent quarries also provide employment. Visitors to this community of 27,600 often stop at the National War Memorial, as well as at medieval Berg Church. Svinesund Bridge connects Norway and Sweden, west of Fredriksten Fort. HAMAR is situated on the shore of Norway’s largest lake, Mjosa, 60 miles north of Oslo. The town of nearly 16,000 was founded by the English pope, Adrian IV, in 1152. It was destroyed by the Swedes in 1567, and among the ruins of that destruction is a 12th-century cathedral. Today, Hamar is the seat of a bishopric; industries include dairies and a foundry. The town is also a well-known ice skating center, boasting one of Europe’s finest rinks. Situated on a fjord in southern Norway opposite Stavanger, the seaport city of HAUGESUND is the center

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Cities of the World of a large herring fleet. In addition to exporting fish, Haugesund has shipbuilding yards, woolen mills, and an aluminum plant. The town achieved fame during Viking times when Harald I united Norway in a battle near here; numerous monuments commemorate this event, including Harald’s grave. Haugesund has a small museum and art gallery. The current population is 31,000. The city of KRISTIANSUND, 90 miles southwest of Trondheim, is built on three islands enclosing a harbor and connected by bridges and ferry boats. The seaport was inhabited in prehistoric times, and incorporated as a city in 1742. It was destroyed by World War II bombing in 1940, but has been rebuilt. Today, Kristiansund (not to be confused with Kristiansand) is a busy fishing port and the base for a large trawling fleet. It exports fish and has shipbuilding yards. The city itself has a charming appearance, with broad streets, brightly painted houses, and a lively marketplace. Kristiansund’s current population is 18,000. LILLEHAMMER is located 85 miles north of Oslo on the northern shore of Lake Mjosa. Situated in the picturesque valley of the Lagen, the city is surrounded by hills and has many spectacular gardens and parks. Norway’s best known resort, Lillehammer is a favorite destination for visitors who love the outdoors. Sporting opportunities are many and varied and include fishing, swimming, horseback riding, and boating in summer, and skiing, ice skating, and curling in winter. Lillehammer is the center of a grain and potato-farming area. Industries here include sawmills, flour mills, and machinery factories. The population of Lillehammer is 25,000. The port city of MOLDE has gained the appellation “Town of Roses” because of its superb gardens. Nestled in an inlet of the Norwegian Sea, 225 miles northwest of Oslo, this 500-year-old area endured limited destruction in a 1916 fire, and extensive damage in World War II.

In April 1940, Molde served temporarily as home of the Norwegian government; after the war the city was totally rebuilt. Industries here include textile mills, furniture manufacture, and fish exports. Varden Hill (1,335 feet high), which commands a view of 87 mountain peaks, is a prime tourist stop in Molde. Also notable is Romsdalsmuseum, with its extraordinary folklore exhibit. Perhaps most outstanding of the city’s attractions, however, is Tverrfjellet Mountain’s Trollkyrkja. A huge cave features a 30-foot-high waterfall that ends in a marble pool. An annual summer jazz festival is held in Molde. The city has an estimated 22,300 residents. PO R S G R U N N , w i t h r o u g h l y 35,700 inhabitants, is an industrial city at the mouth of the Skienselva River, about 70 miles southwest of Oslo. It was settled as a customs post in 1652 and today is home of the gigantic Norsk Hydro chemical f actories. The varied econo my includes porcelain manufacture, s h i p y a r d s, a n d l u m b e r m i l l s. Rococo-styled churches of Østre Porsgrunn and Vestre Porsgrunn were built in the mid-1700s. ROROS is a well-known and oftenvisited town of about 6,000 residents in central Norway. It is 35 miles west of the Swedish border and 50 miles southeast of Trondheim. Once an old mining town, Roros boasts unique 17th-century historic buildings. SANDNES is a major port for the neighboring hinterland at the head of the Gandafjorden in the southwest. The city’s fine transportation facilities allow for an industrial base including textile mills, construction materials, and ceramic tiles. Sandnes has an estimated population of 43,300. SKIEN, with a current population of 48,000, is one of Norway’s oldest towns, and the center of a coppermining area. Ores and lumber are exported from here. Henrik Ibsen (1828–1906), the dramatist and poet, was born in Skien; his child-

hood home, Venstop, is among the local attractions. Founded in 871, TONSBERG is Norway’s oldest town. An ancient fortress city, Tonsberg is located south of Oslo at the northern end of Notteroy Island. A shipping town for fish and lumber, it is also a home port for whaling fleets. Paper and wood and dairy products are produced here. The population of Tonsberg is currently 9,100. The Lofoten Islands off the coast of northern Norway, are an island chain in the midnight sun above the Arctic Circle. This spectacular string of mountainous islands with abrupt peaks composed of granite and lime are estimated to be among the world’s oldest. The Gulf Stream, traveling along Norway’s coast, brings moderate temperatures to this area. Svolvaer (population 4,000) is the Islands’ informal capital and center for commerce and codfish, its economic mainstay. Hiking and boating will allow the tourist to enjoy the wild, rugged beauty of this area. Attractions include Lofot Museum, dating from the 19th century; old Viking settlements; cave drawings dating 600 B.C.; and 180 species of birds which draw ornithologists worldwide.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Located in northwestern Europe on the Scandinavian peninsula, Norwa y i s a p i c t u r e s q u e c o u n t r y bounded on the west by the Northern Atlantic and the North Sea and on the east by Sweden, Finland, and Russia. Norway covers 150,000 square miles including Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands with landscape ranging from farms and fields to forest, lakes, plateaus, glaciers, and the highest peak in northern E u r o p e. T h e j a g g e d c o a s t l i n e stretches 1,625 miles when measured in a straight line—and a stag433

Norway gering 13,125 miles including the ins and outs of the fjords. While small in population, Norway is one of the largest European countries in area. Many people expect Norway’s climate to be bitterly cold. The latitude of the country certainly suggests this would be true. The Arctic Circle cuts through Norway about halfway up the length of the country. Oslo lies in the southern part of the country but is at the same latitude as Anchorage, Alaska. Hammerfest, on the northern tip of the Norwegian mainland, is the world’s most northerly town. Still, the climate of cities along the Norwegian coast is much milder than might be expected at such northerly latitudes, even during midwinter, because of the warming effect of the Gulf Stream. Winter in Oslo is typically warmer than winter in New England or Minnesota, though there is often a lot more snow. Summer in the southern part of the country can last from early May to mid-August, or in a bad year, for only a week in late June. There are about 20 hours of daylight during June and July in Oslo. (Note: in northern Norway the midnight sun shines for nearly 2 months during this period!) Summer days rarely get warmer than 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and can be quite cool—in the 50s and 60s. Winter brings only about six hours of daylight in Oslo and none in areas north of the Arctic Circle. Snow brightens the landscape considerably, even during the shortest days. However, some people find the darkness oppressive. Norwegians seem to have found numerous ways to combat the depression of winter by keeping things cozy and bright inside, using lots of candle light for cheer and warmth, and getting outside during the short days to see the sun.

Population Norway’s population is just over 4.5 million. Since the area of the coun434

Cities of the World try is so vast, Norway has the second lowest population density in Europe; only Iceland has fewer inhabitants per square mile. Sixtyfive percent of Norwegians live in the southern part of the country and along the coast. Norway’s largest cities are Oslo (pop. 470,000), Bergen (216,000), Trondheim (140,000), and Stavanger (100,000).

still have an impact upon Norway today—the unification of the country into a single kingdom and the i n t r o d u c t i o n o f C h r i s t i a n i t y. Although Norway became the fully independent nation of today only in 1905, throughout the past thousand years, Norway has preserved a sense of national identity and unity which traces back to the Viking Age.

Norway has one official language— Norwegian. However, there are two distinct forms of the language which officially have equal status. One form, Bokmaal, strongly resembles Danish. The other, Nynorsk (translated this word means New Norwegian), harkens back to old Norwegian dialects. The forms are very closely interrelated, and Norwegians understand both. Still, they are taught in Norwegian schools as separate subjects. In addition to the division between Bokmaal and Nynorsk, Norwegian encompasses many and varied local dialects. Norwegians spend a great deal of time discussing their language and trying to place each other’s dialects. Their language is for them a point of national and cultural pride.

After the prominence of the Viking period, Norway lost much of its national stature and independence. In 1530, Norway became part of Denmark and was governed by the Danish monarch until 1814. In 1814, Denmark ceded Norway to Sweden as a result of the Napoleonic Wars. However, the Norwegians rose in protest against this agreement and demanded their national right to self-determination.

Most people from larger Norwegian cities speak some English and many speak it very well. Nevertheless, Norwegians truly appreciate any effort made by foreigners to learn their language. Knowledge of Norwegian can be essential for social and business contacts in the country’s more remote areas.

History Our knowledge of Norwegian history dates back to 9000 B.C. when the ice which had covered northern Europe receded and prehistoric peoples began to settle the Scandinavian area. The Viking Age, from 800–1030 A.D., was a period of expansion, exploration and conquest. The Viking inhabitants of Norway expanded east into what is now Sweden, south into England and France, and even across the Atlantic to the New World. During the latter part of the Viking Age, two major events took place which

The major turning point in modern Norwegian history occurred on May 17, 1814, when an assembly of delegates from all over the country met in Eidsvoll, a town north of Oslo, and adopted a Constitution for a free, independent, and democratically-governed Norway. This Constitution, which is still in force, is based on the United States Constitution and provides for three separate branches of government. The Swedes refused to recognize No rwegian indepe ndence, and forced Norway into a union with Sweden under the rule of the Swedish king. From 1814 until 1905, Norway remained in union with Sweden, but the Constitution of Eidsvoll was in force and ensured Norway a democratic form of government. The union between Sweden and Norway was dissolved peacefully in 1905 and Norway entered the ranks of independent states. When Norway gained its independence from Sweden, it decided by popular referendum to retain the limited monarchy as adopted in the Constitution of 1814. The Norwegian government offered the throne of Norway to Danish Prince Carl, who took the name of Haakon Vll, in tribute to previous kings of Norway.

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Cities of the World Haakon Vll became a symbol of unity during the construction of independent, modern Norway. He especially symbolized Norway’s fight against the German occupation during World War 11. His radio broadcasts to Norway from his exile in London encouraged his countrymen and underscored Norway’s determination to regain independence. Haakon Vll reigned until his death in 1957 and was succeeded by his son, Olav V, who was also well-loved by the Norwegian people. Olav V died in 1991 and was succeeded by his son Harald, who became King Harald V. King Harald and Queen Sonja have two children, Prince Haakon and Princess Martha Louise. Because Norway is a constitutional monarchy, the functions of the King (Chief of State) are mainly ceremonial, but his influence is felt as the symbol of national unity.

Public Institutions Norway’s parliament—the Storting—runs the affairs of the country. The Storting is led by the Prime Minister and is a modified unicameral parliamentary structure with 165 members elected from 19 counties. In each county (fylke), a governor exercises authority on behalf of the national government. The city of Oslo constitutes a separate 19th jurisdiction, but shares a governor with Akershus Fylke. The Norwegian Labor Movement is a strong force in modern Norwegian political and socioeconomic life. Successive Labor Party governments have created a social democratic state with extensive public welfare benefits, universal and comprehensive health insurance, and statefunded pension coverage. Nonsocialist governments have also supported the evolving system, resulting in an egalitarian and generally prosperous society. Taxation is accordingly high, to pay for these programs. North Sea oil, which was discovered off Norway’s coast in the early 1970s, helps pay for the country’s

social welfare state. Today, Norway is Western Europe’s leading oil producer, pumping nearly 2.5 million barrels per day. Norway’s oil supply puts it in a unique position among European countries in terms of both domestic and foreign policies. As the European Union continues to evolve, Norway will almost certainly have to reassess its position vis-a-vis the EU. Still, the Norwegians are not afraid to stand alone, and they perceive that they have a traditional life-style and culture to preserve and protect. Norway is a proudly independent nation, not surprising when one thinks back to the Viking roots of the society.

Arts, Science, and Education Norway has made impressive contributions to western culture. Norw a y ’s u n i q u e w o o d e n “ s t a v e ” churches have survived nearly 900 years. Music, art, and literature have been enriched by Edvard Grieg, Henrik Ibsen, Gustav Vigeland and Edvard Munch. The sculpture garden of Gustav Vigeland in Oslo’s Frogner Park offers an afternoon of wonder as one contemplates Vigeland’s powerful and compassionate work. An essential part of expressionist painting, Munch’s varied and striking works are displayed in Oslo’s National Gallery and the Munch Museum. Ibsen’s plays are well-loved and are performed all over the world. In addition to the collections exhibited in the major museums, Oslo offers a number of art galleries such as Kunstnernes Hus and the HenieOnstad Art Center which organize exhibitions of works by American and European artists. A museum of modern art houses a select collection of works by contemporary artists of the western world. Norway is also known for its love of the performing arts. The Bergen International Music Festival sponsors a two-week cultural extravaganza of classical and contemporary music, dance, and theater each year. A number of jazz festivals are held throughout Norway, and interna-

tionally known singers perform frequently. Education in Norway is free through college and compulsory through age 16. The literacy rate is almost 100 percent. Over 41,000 students attend Norway’s four universities or other institutes of higher learning. English is mandatory in the Norwegian school system from the 4th through 9th grades. Most Norwegians speak English (this is particularly true in Oslo) and can usually understand French and German in addition to the other Scandinavian languages. The level of scientific and technical education is high in Norway. Norwegians have made significant contributions to many fields of study. Thor Heyerdahl of Kon-Tiki fame has followed in the footsteps of the famous Norwegian Arctic explorers Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. And, of course, Norway is home to the Nobel Institute, a world famous research institution which awards the Nobel Peace Prize.

Commerce and Industry Offshore oil exploration and exploitation, shipping, metals, pulp and paper products, chemicals, fishing, and forestry are Norway’s major industries, and Norway’s merchant fleet is one of the largest in the world. Large offshore oil/gas reserves will continue to play a crucial role for Norway in the twentyfirst century. The Norwegian economy is essentially stable and harbors few surprises. Growth in gross domestic product (GDP), inflation, consumption and other basic factors strongly resemble those of other developed and prosperous European countries. Over the past 20 years, the Norwegian economy has grown steadily without heavy-handed government intervention. OECD statisticians predict continued steady growth in the near term. 435

Norway Norway is a very small country, with a population of 4.3 million and a GDP of just over 700 billion Norwegian kroner or $108 billion (about 1.8 percent the size of the U.S. GDP). The economy includes a solid and growing industrial base, but the star of the Norwegian economy since the early seventies has been North Sea oil. Growth in oil production and oil price shifts have both had significant effects on the Norwegian economy in the past twenty years, mostly positive. The Norwegian government maintains control of oil production via the state-owned company Statoil and uses its revenues to fund social programs. Norway’s total export of goods and services, including shipping, equals nearly 50 percent of its GDP, with oil accounting for the lion’s share. The economy is heavily influenced by world trade levels, oil prices, and currency exchange rates. The U.S. exported approximately $1.4 billion in goods to Norway in 1999 and approximately $1.2 billion in services. Norway produces over 3 million barrels a day of crude oil and exports 94% of its production making it the second largest oil exporter in the world. The U.S. is Norway's largest foreign investor with $6.2 billion in foreign direct investment at book value (twothirds of which is in the oil and gas sector). Norway has accumulated nearly $30 billion in the Government petroleum fund with 20 to 40 percent invested in U.S. stocks and bonds. U.S. firms are competing for over $6 billion in defense equipment acquisitions which Norway will undertake in the next few years. The U.S. ranked fifth among Norway's trading partners in 1999. Total annual two-way trade is about $8 billion. The U.S. supplies primarily transportation equipment, oil and gas services and equipment, machinery, data processing and office equipment, chemicals, aircraft and defense-related items, and soybeans. U.S. imports from Norway are led by crude oil, nonferrous metals, fish, transport equipment, and pulp and paper. 436

Cities of the World Norway has now voted twice against membership in the EU, in 1972 and again in 1994. As in 1972, the November 1994 referendum was very close-a matter of 2 to 3 percentage points. Since Norway is still a member of the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) and the European Economic Association, Norway enjoys duty-free trade in manufactured products with the EU. However, the status of these organizations could change in the near future, since many of their members have now joined the EU.

Transportation Automobiles Norway is a beautiful country that begs to be explored, and it is possible and even desirable to drive to most places in the country or in neighboring countries. Since Norwegian roads are narrow and winter conditions can be extremely difficult, large American cars are less than ideal. Many people choose to bring 4-wheel-drive vehicles because they handle best in slippery winter conditions, especially in the mountains. Others choose frontwheel-drive vehicles for similar reasons. A vehicle can be registered in Norway with little or no problem as long as it has been registered in the owner's name at least 24 hours prior to importation. Minor adjustments may have to be made to vehicles upon arrival, at owner's expense, unless the vehicle is a European car wit h E ur o pean s peci f ic ati o ns. American specification cars with catalytic converters do not require removal of the converter, since unleaded fuel is readily available. The authorities inspect cars carefully for rust. Your car may not pass if excessive rust, especially on the frame, is found during inspection. Rust free cars can be undercoated after arrival in Norway. Norwegian law requires drivers in Norway to purchase a minimum third party liability insurance package, and Norwegian companies offer the full range of insurance services

as in the U.S. Certification of accident-free driving can reduce your car insurance from 10% up to 70% per year. This certification takes the form of a letter (or letters) from the insurance company (or companies) with whom you have done business prior to your arrival in Oslo. The letter(s) should state the number of years of accident-free driving to your credit. Snow tires are a necessity during Norway's long winter. The law requires that cars are safeguarded against sliding, and if a car involved in an accident is found not to have had appropriate tires for the driving conditions, the driver of that vehicle can be held fully responsible for the accident. You may use snow tires with or without studs and/or chains, but studded snow tires face some restrictions within the Oslo city limits. The law states that the car must have the same type of tire on each axle. Although the majority of Norwegians have traditionally used studded winter tires out of habit; that is changing, and good winter tires are just as effective in most conditions. Studded snow tires are not permitted at all in Oslo between mid-April and mid-October, except when the weather remains bad. Snow tires of all shapes and sizes, studded or nonstudded, are readily available in Oslo at fairly reasonable prices. The only exception might be snow tires for unusual, old, or very large American brand cars. Some people choose to have their snow tires mounted on an extra set of rims for quicker and easier changes. You can bring snow tires with you or buy them in Norway, but you will definitely need them.

Local Oslo's municipal transportation system works well and includes electric trains, streetcars, buses, subways, and suburban commuter trains. Although reliable and extensive, public transportation in Oslo is quite expensive. A single trip in 1999 cost about $2.60 within the Oslo city limits. The use of monthly commuter passes or punch cards

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Cities of the World reduces the rates. Taxis (“drosjer”) operate 24 hours a day. However, they rarely stop when hailed and must be obtained by going to a “taxi stand” or by calling and requesting one. Taxis are usually plentiful, but you may have to wait during bad weather or rush hour. All taxis have meters that begin calculating your fare from the point where the taxi starts its travel to answer your call. The meter continues to run until you reach your destination. Hence, if the taxi is coming to you from far away, the charges may already be quite high before you begin your ride. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, but a small one is always appreciated. Traffic is relatively heavy during rush hours. Narrow roads and construction can cause some congestion. Many people use public transportation to commute to and from work. Public transportation is quick, clean, safe, and convenient and eliminates the need to find a place to park. Parking spaces in downtown Oslo can be very difficult to find. Many parking lots use automated meters that can be confusing for the uninitiated to use. Public transportation (buses and streetcars) has the right of way over private automobiles. Many traffic lanes in cities and on some sections of the highways are reserved for public transportation. These lanes are clearly marked, and private cars should not drive in them. Cars must stop for pedestrians approaching and using crosswalks. Official vehicles (such as fire and police) are marked with the same colors as in the U.S. Norwegian law requires yielding access to emergency vehicles. At regular intersections, traffic entering from the right always has the right of way in Norway, except on major roads marked by yellow diamond-shaped road signs. All drivers must keep a watchful eye, especially in residential areas, for traffic entering from the right. Uphill traffic always has the right of way. There are also numerous traffic circles in and around Oslo. The

rule for these circles is that once in the circle, a car has the right of way over cars entering the circle. In this instance, the right hand rule does not apply. Finally, drivers should be aware that drunk driving laws in Norway are extremely strict and heavily enforced, with possible jail time as a penalty for even the first offense. Drinking anything over the equivalent of one beer will almost certainly put a person over the allowable blood alcohol level.

gian direct dial long distance rates are some of the lowest in Europe, especially during off peak hours. Basic telephone charges are high. There is a metered charge by the minute for each local call. Rates for local calls are cheapest after 5 p.m. and on weekends.

Mail International airmail from the U.S. usually takes 4 to 7 days, but return mail can be slower. Surface shipments by international mail take 4 to 6 weeks from the U.S. and are subject to Norwegian customs.

Regional Oslo is connected to all major European centers by rail and air. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) has direct flights between Oslo and major U.S. cities. Northwest Airlines also services Oslo through KLM via Amsterdam. Oslo's Gardermoen Airport opened in October 1998 (replacing Fornebu) and is located about 40 minutes from downtown Oslo. Various ferries are available from Oslo to Denmark and Germany and from Kristiansand to Denmark and Holland. Well organized, sun-oriented charter flights provide excellent vacation opportunities at moderate c ost, especially du ring wint er months. Group skiing tours to the European Alps are also available. Transportation within Norway is by bus, train, ferry, and internal airline flights. Car travel is possible in summer, but certain areas are closed by snow in winter. Road conditions vary. Mountainous areas have many narrow, winding sections of road.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone and telegraph facilities are provided by a government-operated service (Telenor). Direct dial service is available to most areas of the world, including the U.S. AT&T, MCI, and Sprint cards are available for making calls to the U.S. Use of one of these cards can result in significant savings, although Norwe-

Radio and TV American FM radios are compatible with the Norwegian radio broadcasting system but will have to run through transformers or on batteries (assuming 110v). Commercial radio is relatively new to Norway. Until 1984, there was only a single radio channel. In 1993 NRK widened its radio activities to three parallel broadcasts: P1, which chiefly provides cultural and indepth coverage, major news programs, documentaries and reports, and classical music and jazz programs; P2, which features regional programs, light music, and some sports programs; and P3, which caters mainly to younger listeners, leaning heavily toward entertainment, pop, rock music, and sports. A nationwide private radio corporation-P4-began broadcasting in late 1993. Radio programs are in Norwegian and are geared toward Norweg i a n i n t e r e s t s. S h o r t w a v e broadcasts in English, particularly from the BBC, offer a good source of news. VOA reception is often weak. A growing number of local commercial radio stations throughout Norway offer a variety of programming formats, including Top 40, rock, and adult contemporary music in English. Note: Use of radio transmission equipment, including CB's, is not allowed in Norway. Norway has two national television networks. The Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation (NRK) is an independent institution responsible for general public broadcasting in 437

Norway Norway. NRK TV broadcasts more than 60 hours a week, featuring sports, news, drama, children's programs (which are dubbed to Norwegian), educational programs, music, and entertainment. About half of NRK's programs are original NRK productions. There are also several private television stations in Oslo. Cable TV and satellite TV are both available. Much of the programming is produced locally, but there are a fair number of foreign programs also shown, including popular British and American series. All foreign language programs are subtitled in Norwegian except children's programs which are dubbed. Oslo area homes equipped with cable TV have better reception of the local channels as well as the option to receive a wide variety of channels, including Sky Channel, Super Channel, FilmNet, CNN, Eurosport, BBC, MTV, and two Swedish channels. Norwegian television uses the Europ e a n PA L s t a n d a r d . I t i s n o t generally financially practical to modify U.S. sets to European specifications. To receive Norwegian broadcasting as well as cable broadcasts, one must have either a multisystem TV or a European PAL TV (Note: American VCRs will not record PAL signals, nor can they play PAL tapes. Again, a multisystem VCR is required for these purposes. Since PAL tapes of American movies are available for rent locally on just about every corner, a multisystem or PAL TV and VCR are desirable.) U.S. sets designed to operate at 110v, 60 cycles can be adapted to 220v with transformers and used to play U.S. standard (NTSC) VCR tapes.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Popular American and British magazines are readily available at the newspaper stands (kiosks). British newspapers, the International Herald Tribune, and USA Today are also available locally. The cost of 438

Cities of the World magazines is higher than in the U.S. Most Norwegian libraries have an English book section that often contains current children's books and adult fiction and nonfiction. Many bookstores in Oslo carry American and British books, but prices are considerably higher than in the country of origin.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Norwegian public health and medical-care facilities are extensive, reasonably priced and of excellent quality. The Norwegian health delivery system differs somewhat from that of the U.S. in that emergencies are first treated at an emergency care facility (legevakt) rather than in a hospital’s emergency room. Cases needing further treatment or hospitalization are then referred to hospitals or physicians. In the Norwegian system, one cannot be directly admitted to a hospital. The style of Norwegian physician care also differs from the U.S. style. Doctors tend to be abrupt by American standards and often do not offer explanations of their procedures. They also make fewer allowances for personal modesty, e.g., they do not typically provide gowns or leave the room while a patient disrobes. Most Norwegian health care specialists speak some English. Norwegian ophthalmologists and optometrists are comparable to their American counterparts in skill, but the prices for these services are much higher in Norway than in the U.S. Opticians fill prescriptions efficiently and promptly. Most types of glasses and contact lenses are available. Norwegian dentists vary greatly in ability and price. Orthodontic work is good and usually costs less than in the U.S. The dental school offers routine and specialized care for both adults and children through the use of licensed professionals and dental students. Oslo also has an emergency dental clinic (tannlegevakt).

Drugstores are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekdays and until early afternoon on Saturdays. Certain pharmacies are also open nights a n d S u n d ay s. M o s t m e d i c i n e s require prescriptions, although headache remedies, vitamins, cold remedies, and other patent medicines do not. Note however that even aspirin can only be bought in small quantities (one bottle of 20 tablets at a time). If you have favorite pain relief and cold medicines, you will simplify your life by bringing a large bottle of each with you. Drug quality is well-controlled and therefore excellent, and prices are reasonable. Only Celsius thermometers are available locally. Note that the doctor will want to know the temperature of your fever in Celsius.

Community Health Sanitary conditions in Norway are among the best in the world. Strict laws govern commercial processing, cooking, handling and serving of foods. The state-run water supply system is excellent and drinkable without filtering throughout the country. Oslo is in general much cleaner than most U.S. cities of comparable size. Norway has not had any serious epidemics in years, although the flu season can be severe. Flus, colds, and sore throat infections may be aggravated by the lack of sunshine during winter months. The cold winter weather and the low humidity in heated homes and buildings can also contribute to discomfort during illness. The risk of contagious disease is the same as in the U.S. Seasonal episodes of mumps and chicken pox break out each year. Large-scale outbreaks of measles, mumps and rubella (German measles) are rare because so many children have been vaccinated.

Preventive Measures No particular vaccinations are required. N o r way’s cli mat e is g e n e ra ll y healthy. Upper respiratory infec-

Norway

Cities of the World tions occur more frequently during fall, winter and spring. Norwegians consider vitamin pills and cod liver oil (available locally) essential to compensate for winter’s lack of sunshine and vitamin D. The water is not fluoridated. However, fluoride tablets for children can be obtained at drug stores without prescription. Fluoride rinses are also available. Your physician can give you information on the best fluoride treatment for your family.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1. . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Feb. (2nd Sun). . . . . . . . Mother’s Day* Feb. 21 . . . . . . . . . . Birthday of king Herald V Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Holy Thursday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1. . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 8. . . . . . . . . . . Liberation Day May 17. . . . . . . . . . Independence Day June 7 . . . . . . . . . . Union Dissolution Day May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Pentecost* May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday* June. . . . . . . . . . . . Midsummer Night* July 4. . . . . . . . . . . Birthday of Queen Sonja July 24. . . . . . . . . . Birthday of Crown Prince Haakon July 29. . . . . . . . . . St. Olav’s Day Sept. 22 . . . . . . . . . Birthday of Princess Martha Lousie Nov. (2nd Sun). . . . . . . . Father’s Day* Dec. 25. . . . . . . . . . Christmas Dec. 26. . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day Dec. 31. . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Eve *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS At present, there is no U.S. air carrier providing direct service from the U.S. to Oslo, although certain U.S. carriers have deals with European companies to make connecting flights into Oslo. Most individuals fly to London, Copenhagen or Amsterdam and then take a foreign air carrier to Fornebu airport, Oslo. Other transportation to Norway includes overnight car ferries from Denmark and Germany to Oslo, Amsterdam to Kristiansand (in the summer months only), Newcastle to Stavanger and Bergen, and rail links from Sweden and Copenhagen. A valid passport is required. U.S. citizens may enter Norway for tourist or general business purposes without a visa for up to 90 days. Since March 2001, Norwegian entry visas are governed by the rules of the Schengen Agreement. Under this agreement, a visa issued for admission to most European Union (EU) countries (including non EU members Norway and Iceland) is also valid for admission to other member countries. EU members Ireland and the United Kingdom have opted not to participate in the Schengen arrangement at this time. Under Schengen visa procedures, a tourist is only permitted to spend a total of three months in the “Schengen area” within any six month period. Tourists who enter Norway without a visa cannot usually change status in Norway in order to reside or work there. Travelers planning a longterm stay, marriage or employment in Norway should therefore seek the appropriate visa before departing the United States. For information concerning entry requirements, travelers can contact the Royal Norwegian Embassy at 2720 34th Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008-2714, tel. 1-202333-6000, or the nearest Norwegian

consulate; and on the Internet at http://www.norway.org. Norwegian consulates are located in Houston, Miami, Minneapolis, New York City, and San Francisco. Information can also be obtained from the Norwegian Directorate of Immigration at http://www.udi.no.

Pets Norway is a rabies-free country, and pets brought to Norway from rabies infected countries must be quarantined at the State Animal Quarantine Station in Oslo for 4 months. Total costs for bringing a dog or cat to Norway are about $2,000-$3,000 per animal (including quarantine). Please note that animals that have resided in EU countries for 1 year without intervening travel to other countries do not need to be quarantined. There are separate and more flexible regulations for temporary or permanent importation of seeingeye guide dogs. Once the you receive space and import permit assurances from the State Veterinarian, you will be sent application papers, additional information, and mandatory forms (see below) provided with the import license from the Norwegian Agricultural Ministry. You must submit the requested information in the correct time frame. Have a licensed veterinarian complete an up to date health and vaccination certificate using the mandatory Certificate of Origin and Health provided by the Norwegian Quarantine Station: Annex to H 2 (dogs) or Annex to K 2 (cats). The certificate must specify that the animal shows no sign of infectious or communicable disease, that it has been vaccinated (within 3 weeks of shipment to Norway) against distemper, and that it has been blood tested for leptospirosis (L. canicola and L. icterohaemorrhagiae) with negative test results as specified on the form. Arranging for the leptospirosis test in the U.S. may take some time, since only a few labs have the facilities to analyze and evaluate the results of such tests. The certificate should also give a complete description of the 439

Norway animal (sex, breed, color, and age) and should bear veterinarian license confirmation, either from the Norwegian Consul or from local police authorities or government authorities. The animal must be checked at its arrival point by veterinary inspectors (for a fee) and will be transferred to the Quarantine Station. There is only one approved quarantine facility in Norway for dogs and cats. Vestberg Quarantine Station Nordre Linderudsvei 45 N-1816 Skiptvedt, Norway Phone: (47) 69 80 85 80 Fax: (47) 69 80 85 90 Website: http://home.sol.no/-vestkara/ information.html It is located in Ostfold county approximately 70 km from Oslo. The Quarantine Station recommends that dogs be vaccinated against Kennel cough and canine parvovirus infection and cats be vaccinated against feline viral rhinotracheitis and feline calcivirus infection a minimum of 3 weeks before they arrive at the quarantine station. The animal must also be identified with a readable tattoo or microchip implant. The identification number must be referred to on all vaccination certificates or vaccination book and on laboratory certificates. The identification number must also be referred to on the approved Veterinary Certificate. If the microchip is not of FECAVA or ISO standard, the animal owner must provide a compatible reader. Additional information may be obtained by contacting: The Norwegian Animal Health Authority, Central Unit, at PO. Box 8147 Dep., N0033 Oslo, Norway. Phone: (47) 22 24 19 40 Fax: (47) 22 24 19 45. Since the Quarantine Station kennel has limited space, especially in the summer, you must give them 23 weeks notice. The Vestberg Animal Quarantine Station kennel is adequate, and veterinary care is good. Most owners have been 440

Cities of the World satisfied with their pet's stay. On the other hand, an isolation period of 4 months can be a problem for v e r y o l d o r n e r v o u s a n i m a l s. Healthy and well-balanced pets over 1 year of age usually show no ill effects, but often the owners suffer during this time. The Quarantine Station will not admit animals under 6 months old. Dogs under 12 months of age require human and family contact to develop into normal, well balanced animals. The isolation of 4 months' quarantine may be detrimental at this stage. Visits may be made for 45 minutes, twice a week on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 6-8 pm, after the first 2 weeks of isolation have been completed. You must call to make an appointment. After departure from the Quarantine Station, the animal is restricted from contact with other animals for an additional 2 months. Basic expenses for 4 month quarantining are currently over $2,400 for dogs and $1,660 for cats. This is subject to change depending upon the rate of exchange. One-half of the charges must be paid upon entry of the pet into quarantine. The remainder is due on the last day of quarantine when you pick up your pet.

Firearms and Ammunition Under Norwegian law, a private individual must have prior written authorization from the Norwegian Government to purchase or possess firearms or ammunition in Norway. No automatic weapons are allowed into Norway for use or sale by private citizens or visitors. Also, Norwegian law has other restrictions that pertain to types and quantities of weapons permissible in Norway. Hunting (and fishing) licenses are required and can be obtained on payment of the proper fee to local authorities.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures Norway's basic unit of currency is the crown (krone). A crown today is worth about 12 cents (8.5 crowns = $1). Technically, each crown is bro-

ken down into 100 ore, although only the 50 ore coins are in circulation. Local banking and exchange facilities throughout Norway are as numerous as ATMs. Norway has no regular American banks. All currenc i e s a n d t r av e l e r s c h e c k s a r e exchangeable, and full international banking services are available. No limit exists on the purchase of dollars or other foreign exchange. Banks located at airports and other terminals provide service on weekends and evenings. Normal banking hours are 8:15 am to 3:45 pm, Monday through Friday, but banks close at 3 pm in summer. The value-added tax (known in Norwegian as “VAT”) is 23% of sale price and is paid on all goods and services, including food and clothing. This tax is usually included in the marked price of the item(s) at all retail stores. Norway uses the metric system of weights and measures, but there is on e ex ception: one Nor we gian “mile” is equivalent to 10 kilometers. American miles are not used here. If you hear a Norwegian discussing miles, he or she probably means the 10-kilometer Norwegian kind.

Special Information Norway remains one of the safest countries in the world, with little violent crime. Travel on public transportation, for example, is safe during any time of the day or night. However, as in most European capitals, property crimes such as home burglaries have increased recently. This seems to be largely due to the increase in drug use. In addition, high value cars (both European and American makes) have become a particular target of professional car thieves looking to ship cars to Eastern Europe at high profit. Owners of expensive vehicles may wish to take appropriate precautions, such as installing an alarm. Americans living in or visiting Norway are encouraged to register at

Norway

Cities of the World the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy and to obtain updated information on travel and security within Norway. The U.S. Embassy is located in Oslo near the Royal Palace at Drammensveien 18; tel. (47) 22-44-85-50, Consular Section fax (47) 22-56-27-51. Information about consular services can be found in the Consular Section of the Embassy's home page at http:// www.usa.no.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published about Norway.

General Reference Guides Tomkinson, Michael. Alf Bjercke's Norway 1999. Facts about Norway. [contributors: Hugo Pedersen...et al.]; maps, diagrams and drawings: 24th ed. Oslo Schibsted, © 1996 (new edition expected 2000). Living in Norway, a practical guide: Patricia Crinion Bjaaland's classic guide for new residents. 3rd edition by Michael Brady and Belinda Drabble. Palamedes Press, 1999. Swaney, Dena. Norway. ISBN: 0864426542, Lonely Planet Publications, 1999.

History Derry, T.K. A History of Modern Norway, 1814-1972. Oxford: Clarendon Press.

Hylland Eriksen. Thomas Being Norwegian in a shrinking world. Reflections on Norwegian identity.

Libæk, Ivar and Oivind Stenersen. A History of Norway. Grondahl 1999.

In Anne Cohen Kiel, ed., Continuity and Change: Aspects of Modern Norway, Scandinavian University Press 1993. (this article is available on the internet at http:// www.uio.no/-geirthe/ Norwegian.html)

Midgaard, John. A Brief History of Norway. Tano Press, 1989.

U.S. - Norwegian Relationship

Riiste, Olav and Berit Nokleby. Norway 1940-1945. Oslo: Tanum Forlag, 1970.

Ramsoy, Natalie Rogoff, ed. Norwegian Society. Oslo: Gyldendal Norsk Forlag, 1968. (ReprintedOslo: Universitets forlaget, 1974.)

Jerman, Gunnar. New Norway: a country of change. Index Publishing, 1999.

Norwegian-American Relations Cole, Wayne. Norway and the U.S. 19051955: Two Democracies in Peace and War. Iowa State, 1989.

Su-Dale, Elizabeth. Culture Shock Norway: a guide to customs and etiquette. Graphics Arts Center Publishing, Portland 1995.

Fiction

Skard, Sigmund. The United States in Norwegian H i s t o r y. Universitetsforlaget, 1976.

Asbjoernsen and Moe. Norwegian Folktales (Pat Shaw's translation).

Skard, Sigmund. Transatlantica. Universitetsforlaget, 1978.

Hamsun, Knut. Growth of the Soil.

Norwegian Society Gullestad, Marianne. The Art of Social Relations: Essays on Culture, Social Action and Everyday Life in Modern Norway. NYP, 1992. Guy Peters, B. and Tom Christensen. Structure, Culture and Governance: a comparison of Norway and the United States. Rowman and Littlefield, 1999.

Gaarder, Jostein. The Solitaire Mystery. Hoel, Sigurd. Meeting at the Milestone. Ibsen, Henrik. Peer Gynt. Sandel, Cora. Alberte and Jacob. Ullmann, Linn. Before you Sleep (contemporary). Undset, Sigrid. Kristin Lavansdatter. Vesaas, Tarjei. The Birds.

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Warsaw, Poland

POLAND Republic of Poland

Major Cities: Warsaw, Kraków, Poznañ, Ïódý, Wrocïaw Other Cities: Bielsko-biala, Bydgoszcz, Czëstochowa, Gdañsk, Kielce, Szczecin

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated April 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION POLAND’s geography and the national struggles marking its long history of unrest have made it a country of contradictions, ideologically and emotionally torn between East and West. The Polish people, still haunted by a century-and-a-half of partition, the holocaust of the Second World War, and life under Communist rule, are vigorous and patriotic, and eager for a better life. Since the end of Communist party rule in 1989, Poland has undergone tremendous political and economic change. Under privatization, factories have closed. Unemployment has risen, income has dropped, and prices of consumer goods has

increased. Despite these hardships, the Polish people continue to show support to their government and commitment to their new way of life.

MAJOR CITIES Warsaw Warsaw, with a metropolitan population of about 1.6 million, is situated in eastern Poland on the banks of the Vistula River (in Polish, Visïa). More than 80 percent of the city was destroyed during World War II, and the extent to which it has recovered is a tribute to the spirit and patriotism of the Polish people. Many old sections of Warsaw have been rebuilt in styles reminiscent not only of the prewar period, but also of earlier eras, and a remarkable amount of new construction has taken place. Few ruined buildings or rubble remain. In winter, the lack of sunshine and the smoke from the soft coal burned for heat combine to make Warsaw somewhat drab. However, in contrast, the many parks, squares, and tree-lined boulevards come alive in spring and summer, giving the city a cheerful appearance. Postwar Warsaw is characterized by a profusion of large buildings which

house government ministries and enterprises. Many new apartment blocks have been built, but urban housing still is in chronically short supply. Hotel space remains inadequate in spite of several good, new hotels. A new highway and bridge were completed in recent years to provide additional access for the growing population on the east bank of the Vistula. Buses and streetcars remain the principal means of public transport around the city. Service is frequent and routes extensive. The Old Town, with its famous market square (Rynek Starego Miasta), was almost totally destroyed during World War II. It was painstakingly reconstructed in 17th- and 18th-century style from old architectural plans. On the south side of Old Town is Castle Square, dominated by a granite column with a statue of King Sigismund III Vasa. The Royal Castle, which stood on the east side of this square, has been rebuilt by the voluntary contributions of millions of Poles as a symbol of Polish national pride. Warsaw (in Polish, Warszawa) was founded as a city in 1300, but the first settlement on the site dates to the 11th century. The city was an important trade center in the Middle Ages; it came under Polish rule in 1526, and was made the capital of 443

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Poland in 1596. Throughout its history, it has suffered at the hands of Sweden (destroyed by Charles X Gustavus of Sweden in the mid-17th century); of Russia, by fire and massacre, and by occupation; and of Germany, by whom it was occupied during both World Wars. Wa r s aw e n d u r e d a l m o s t t o t a l destruction from bombing in World War II. Of the 400,000 Jews who lived in the city in 1939, and who comprised nearly one-third of the population, only 200 remained at the war’s end—the vast majority had been exterminated in Nazi gas chambers. Many thousands more perished in the ghetto uprising of 1943, or died during incarceration. In all, between 600,000 and 800,000 Warsaw residents died in the occupation years between 1939 and 1944.

Schools for Foreigners The American School of Warsaw, which opened in 1953, is partly f i n a n c e d b y U. S. G o v e r n m e n t grants. It offers instruction from kindergarten through twelfth grade, following an American curriculum and using American textb o o k s a n d s t a n d a r d t e s t s. A program emphasizing individualized instruction is in use at all levels. American School has staff specialists in reading, math, computer science, and learning disabilities. Special curricular activities include art, chorus, photography, and computer instruction. Extracurricular activities are drama, gymnastics, dance, instrumental music, computers, student council, yearbook, newspaper, and field trips. Scouting programs are offered for boys and girls.

Recreation Citizens of Warsaw are justly proud of their many large, open parks which afford extensive opportunity for rest and relaxation. A variety of tame animal life abounds in the woods and ponds of these parks. Children can play in a number of playgrounds and fields while their parents hike along miles of fine paths, enjoy an open-air concert, 444

lunch at a restaurant in the park, or just relax on a convenient bench. Fishing is possible in many rivers and lakes. Tackle, boats, and related items can be bought locally at moderate prices. Licenses are required, but membership in a group or club is not necessary. Camping is growing in popularity, especially with families. Many excellent campsites are both in the Warsaw vicinity and in other parts of the country. The most beautiful are in the lake region near Augustów, about 155 miles northeast of Warsaw, and in the Mazurian lake region, about 185 miles to the north. These two lake belts, situated in forests, offer many lakeside cottages, boats for rent, and excellent fishing and water-skiing. Camping equipment is available locally. Tennis and swimming are popular sports during summer, although swimming in the Vistula River is not recommended because of strong currents and pollution. Many expatriates enjoy skating at outdoor rinks or at the Torwar Stadium in winter. The Torwar management sets aside a special hour on Sunday afternoons for the exclusive use of the diplomatic and foreign business community. Skiing is excellent at Zakopane, a noted mountain resort town, and in the Karkonosze Mountains. Both skiing and climbing are possible in parts of the Tatra and Beskidy Mountains, about 280 miles from Warsaw. Many of these areas have well-equipped shelter houses, but ski lifts are not always available. The Baltic coast, 230 to 330 miles from Warsaw, has a wealth of sea resorts with beautiful sandy beaches although the water is too polluted for swimming. The most famous of the Polish seaside resorts, Sopot, hosts a variety of international festivals. About 150 miles east of Warsaw is an interesting nature preserve, Puszcza Biaïowieska, which has the

last remaining herd of rare European bison, a virgin forest with 1,000-year-old oaks, and other attractions.

Entertainment Cultural life in Poland offers something for just about everyone. Annual festivals include jazz in October and serious contemporary music (Warsaw Autumn) in October. Warsaw has a choice of grand opera, chamber opera, a richly-varied symphony season that usually includes one or two major visits (the Israeli Philharmonic, the Pittsburgh Symphony, Joan Sutherland), or lighter entertainment provided in the musical theater—most of which is American in origin. Spectator events, such as ice shows, soccer, track and field, boxing, cycling, basketball, and horse racing, are held regularly. Local museums have frequent exhibitions of art, handicraft, books, and related subjects. Warsaw’s National Museum holds international exhibits. A Chopin museum is located at the composer’s birthplace in Þelazowa Wola, about 40 miles from the capital. Distinguished Polish and foreign pianists give Sunday recitals there and in Ïazienki Park in Warsaw during the summer. In addition to Polish films, cinemas here show many American and other imports, usually in the original language with Polish subtitles. Warsaw restaurants vary considerably with regard to menus, atmosphere, and decor, and several are very good. Sidewalk and indoor cafés are popular meeting places, and two or three nightclubs offer dancing. A large shopping center, with several department stores, is located on Marszaïkowska Street. Close by is the central railway station. Roadside picnics are popular during fair weather. Many picturesque forest and riverside sites are only a short distance from the city.

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Kraków The name Kraków (Cracow in English, but Polish form is more commonly used) first appeared in written records in the year 965, when the town was already an a c t i v e e a s t -w e s t t r a d e c e n t e r. Despite the Tatar invasions, one of which destroyed the city, Kraków continued to grow, and became the capital of Poland in 1320. King Casimir the Great opened his realm to Jews and, in 1364, founded the city’s Jagiellonian University, the second oldest in central Europe. The 15th and 16th centuries marked Kraków’s golden age; the Jagiellonian dynasty rejuvenated the university and encouraged the arts and sciences. While the distinguished astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543) studied at the university, Polish and Italian artists were giving the city the Renaissance flavor which characterizes it even today. After the capital was moved to Warsaw in 1596, Sweden twice invaded and burned Kraków. Following the first partition of Poland in 1772, hard times continued for the city. For the next 150 years, first the Prussians and then the Austrians o c c u p i e d K r a k ó w. Ta d e u s z Kosciuszko, hero of the American Revolution’s turning-point Battle of Saratoga in 1777, returned to Poland in 1784. During the next five years he became increasingly involved in his country’s struggle to save itself from the Russian invaders. In 1794, Kosciuszko took an oath in Kraków’s Great Square (Rynek Gïówny), swearing to lead the nation to the end in the fight for liberty, integrity, and independence. His heroic efforts ended in October of that year when, betrayed by Prussian entry into the conflict, he was wounded and captured by the Russians. Thomas Jefferson wrote of Kosciuszko, “He is as pure a son of liberty as I have ever known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, and not to the few or the rich alone.” Kosciuszko is buried in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral.

During a short period of oppression and revolts (1815–1846), the Austrians shared their rule of the “Republic of Kraków” with the Prussians and the Russians. Under the relatively mild Austrian rule in the latt e r p a r t o f t h e 1 9 t h c e n t u r y, however, the city flourished as a center of Polish culture, the only place in Europe where Polish civil rights were recognized. The governor-general was a Pole, and the Polish language was used in schools, courts, and government offices. In this fertile atmosphere, Jan Matejko, Stanisïaw Wyspiañski, Helena Modjeska (Modrzejewska), and other outstanding 19th-century artists flourished. At the beginning of World War II, the Nazis made Kraków the capital of their general government. Prominent Kracovians were arrested and sent to concentration camps, the largest of which, Ausc h w i t z -B i r k e n a u ( O s w i e c i m ) , stands 25 miles west of the city. Four million people, including Kraków’s entire Jewish population, perished there. Despite this massacre of its population, Kraków escaped the physical destruction suffered by other Polish c i t i e s d u r i n g Wo r l d Wa r I I . Although it received only a small share of postwar reconstruction funds, a new town, Nowa Huta, was built around the Lenin Steel Works in 1947 and eventually was incorporated within the city limits. This plant, until recently the largest of its kind in Poland, and the city’s chemical industry have changed the face of Kraków, adding an aspect of bustling, grimy, 20th-century industrialism to the traditional calm of a thousand-year-old cultural center. The current population is around 740,000. Recently civic and environmental concerns have emerged to demand that the city’s social needs and the preservation of its unique academic, cultural, and historical character be given overriding priority in modifying and developing its industry. Active steps are now underway to preserve the city’s many monu-

ments and reduce air pollution levels. With its Wawel museum, where most of Poland’s greatest heroes are interred, Kraków remains a shrine of Polish identity and nationalism. The province of Katowice, contains about 3 million inhabitants. According to official statistics, almost half of those gainfully employed in the 10 voivodships (administrative centers) work in industry although, traditionally, areas such as Opole, Rzeszów, and Przemyõl have been considered primarily agricultural. In Katowice, the country’s most heavily populated voivodship, most workers are employed in the mines and mills. The southeastern provinces of Poland have, for many years, been centers of emigration to the U.S. and many in the area, especially the górale, or highlanders, have relatives in America. Kraków lies in a shallow basin on the Vistula River, some 50 miles east of the Katowice-Gliwice industrial area. A “city voivodship” of 1.028 square miles, it is the meeting place of three geographic regions: t h e C a r p a t h i a n u p l a n d s, t h e Maïopolska highlands, and the Vistula lowlands. A point of interest to Americans is Kraków’s American Children’s Hospital, which was built and organized with U.S. assistance. Facilities and services at this hospital are good, and adults are also treated in emergencies.

Schools for Foreigners Polish Government schools at all levels may accept American children, but knowledge of the Polish language and parental willingness to provide supplementary schooling at home are required. Normally, children of high-school age are sent to private (or U.S. Defense Departm e n t -r u n ) s c h o o l s i n We s t e r n Europe. Kraków’s large and prestigious Jagiellonian University is the home of the Polonia Institute, which offers year-round courses in Polish language, history, and culture. Private 445

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Cities of the World automobile rally) originates in Kraków. Swimming, fishing, and camping in the nearby mountains, forests, and national parks are the principal outdoor activities. Ice skating, tennis, and indoor swimming are also available in the city. Skiing is the main attraction at mountain resorts just south of Kraków. The most popular of these, Zakopane, is about one-and-a-half hours from the city. It has a good ski lift and many excellent hotels, villas, and restaurants—all set in the breathtaking scenery of the Tatras. Zakopane is usually crowded, part i cu l ar l y a t C h r i s t m as a n d i n March. Farther east, about four hours from Kraków, the virgin forests of the Bieszczady offer some of the best camping in Poland, espe cially around Lake Solina.

Entertainment

Jagellonian University in Kraków

tutoring in music and language is also available.

Recreation With its beautiful medieval monuments, Kraków is Poland’s leading tourist center. The city annually draws hundreds of thousands of foreign and Polish visitors to its histori c ch ur ch es, mus eums, a nd palaces. A visit to the Wawel Castle and the Cathedral (scene of coronations and resting place of royalty) forms part of every Polish child’s education in the country’s great artistic and political achievements. Numerous sites are also within an easy drive of the city. Both the O j c o w N a t i o n a l Pa r k a n d t h e 446

Courtesy of Melissa Doig

famous Wieliczka salt mines are close to downtown Kraków. Within an hour of the city is the Dunajec gorge with its well-known raft ride. The former concentration camp at Oswiecim (Auschwitz), now a museum, is also one hour from Kraków. Farther away are the Shrine of the Black Madonna Czëstochowa in Katowice Province, and the palaces in Lancut and Baranów in Rzeszów voivodship. Prague, Vienna, and Budapest are within a day’s drive of Kraków. Czechoslovak visas may be obtained in Katowice. Spectator sports are popular in Kraków. Wisïa, the city’s soccer team, is one of the best in Poland, and the annual Rajd Polski (Polish

Kraków’s theater has a fine reputation, but language remains a barrier for most Americans. In addition to the Old Theater (Stary Teatr) and Sïowacki Theater, both of which present innovative stagings, some interesting semi- professional and student playhouses are available. The city’s opera gives relatively few performances, and is no rival to Warsaw’s. However, the philharmonic orchestra season is long and varied, including frequent performances with guest artists and choirs; chamber music and jazz events are also offered. A light opera company presents Broadway -t y p e m u s i c a l s. T h e c i t y ’s Higher School of Music is probably Poland’s best. Kraków’s political cabaret is famous, but requires native-speaker language competence to be enjoyed. Katowice, only one-and-a-half hours from Kraków, has one of the country’s finest symphony orchestras, the Katowice Radio and Television Orchestra.

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Cities of the World Several American or English films are shown regularly in the city’s theaters, most of them in English with Polish subtitles; tickets must be purchased in advance to ensure entry. In early June, Kraków hosts an international short-film festival. An art-film theater in town features classic movies—often American or British. Kraków is a center for the plastic arts and the home of several world-famous painters and sculptors. Numerous galleries and museums in the city have a constantly changing variety of offerings. Kraków has a few good restaurants, including the Wierzynek, reputedly the best in Poland, and boasting a 600-year history. The Nowinna, eleven miles south of the city, also rivals any restaurant in the country. The restaurants in the Hotel Francuski, Holiday Inn, and Cracovia Hotel feature Polish and international cuisine. The Balaton serves spicy Hungarian dishes. The Pod Korza Stopka specializes in poultry dishes, and the Staropolska offers a variety of Polish specialties. In a slightly lower-price category are the Hawalka and Hermitage, featuring Polish dishes, and the Dniepr, a Ukrainian restaurant. The Francuski, Cracovia, Pod Strzelnica, and Dniepr have dancing, and the city’s two nightclubs feature floor shows. At all restaurants, standards are lower than those found in the U.S. or Western Europe. Social contact among Americans in Kraków tends to be frequent and informal. There is a small U.S. Consulate staff, a small group of Fulbright scholars and professors, and some American students enrolled at local universities. Members of the French Consulate General and the French Institute, and visiting professors and students are often included in social functions. A knowledge of Polish adds immeasurably to the enjoyment of activities in Kraków.

Poznañ Although more than half of Poznañ was destroyed during World War II, the city today shows few signs of war damage. Much new building and restoration is in progress. The Opera House, Palace of Culture (formerly the Kaiser’s Palace), Poznañ University, and many impressive public buildings and churches give an elegant appearance to the city. The renaissance Old Square and City Hall, destroyed during the war, have been handsomely rebuilt. A large and attractive part of the city surrounding the old town center consists of turn-of-the century buildings. Apartment houses are going up in the suburbs, but the exteriors of some are left unplastered and give a rough, unfinished appearance to these sections. Most new construction is of apartment complexes rather than detached houses. Poznañ has a population of 578,000, and is located about 120 miles east of the Polish-German border. The city is 266 feet above sea level and, although generally in the same northern continental climatic zone as Warsaw, seems to have somewhat milder weather. The Warta River, which runs through the city, is Poland’s third largest waterway and carries barge traffic for half its l e n g t h . T he a r e a s u r r o u n d i n g Poznañ, generally flat with a few rolling hills, contains several large lakes, some narrow streams, and forested areas. Covering the western third of the country, the Poznañ (U.S.) consular district contains 17 of Poland’s 49 provinces (województwa). The area is about 56,600 square miles in size. The Baltic provinces of Szczecin (Szczceciñskie), Koszalin (Koszaliñskie), and Sïupsk (Sïupskie) have long coastlines with some fine beaches. The large port city of Szczecin (population 417,000) is at the point where the Odra River flows into Szczecin Bay, about 40 miles inland from the Baltic coast port of Õwinoujõcie. Szczecin and Õwinoujõcie together form one large port complex under a single port

administration. Koszalin and Sïupsk provinces are largely rural and sparsely settled. With gently rolling terrain, many lakes, and large areas of mixed coniferous and deciduous forests, the region generally is reminiscent of northern Minnesota or Wisconsin. The provinces surrounding Poznañ comprise a rich agricultural area of flat to gently rolling terrain with many small lakes and forests. The area to the south, which includes the important industrial, academic, and cultural center of Wrocïaw, ranges from flat and rolling plains to the Sudeten Mountains along the Czech border. Altitudes in the district vary from 75 feet above sea level in Szczecin to 1,100 feet in the southwestern city of Jelenia (Zielona) Góra. A few miles south of here is 5,200-foot Õnieþka Mountain, the highest point in the consular district. The number of Americans and other foreigners in the city increases as preparations for the annual Poznañ Trade Fair get under way each spring. A variety of American official, scientific, and cultural representatives visit throughout the year. A large influx of visiting Americans occurs in August, at the time of the three-week summer seminar in English.

Schools for Foreigners A Polish Government preschool has accepted many American children, and most parents have been satisfied with this arrangement. Private tutoring, inexpensive by U.S. standards, is available in music.

Recreation Poznañ is replete with historical monuments and museums. The Old Town is authentically restored, and the Renaissance town hall here is one of the monuments which withstood wartime devastation; built in the mid-16th century, it is among the most valuable structures of its kind in central Europe. The cathedral on Ostrów Tumski island con447

Poland tains centuries-old relics and tombs. Other beautiful churches here date from the 12th through the 18th cent u r i e s, a n d m u s e u m s a b o u n d throughout the city. Several areas of touring interest are near Poznañ. Kórnik, a small town about 10 miles southeast of the city, is the site of a 16th-century castle which is now a museum. It has a moat and contains an unusual picture gallery; beautiful polished floors; fine old furniture; porcelain stoves and appointments; Polish handicrafts; archaeological and nature collections; and a 100,000-volume library, including old manuscripts and prints. The museum contains not only collections from the Dziaïynski and Zamojski families who formerly lived in the castle, but also such Polish artistic work as a magnificent collection of embroidered sashes and costumes. The park surrounding the castle-museum is planted in a variety of trees, shrubs, and hedges, and has numerous paths. At Rógalin, near Kórnik, is an 18th-century palace which is now a museum and gallery containing valuable historical objects and paintings by 19th-century Polish artists. Rógalin also is noted for a stand of 1,000-year-old oak trees. Other country palaces, recently restored, are within a half-hour’s drive of Poznañ. Some have restaurants or coffee houses. Gniezno, about 30 miles northeast of Poznañ, was Poland’s first capital. This 1,000-year-old city contains an ancient cathedral with paintings, sculpture, medieval tombs, and a set of bronze doors dating from the 12th century. It also has relics of St. Adalbert (in Polish, Wojciech), patron saint of Poland. St. John’s Church, in 14th-century Gothic style, is also of unusual interest. Biskupin, not far from Gniezno, is one of the largest prehistoric settlements in Europe. It dates from 700 to 400 B.C., and Poles assert that it shows the historic predominance of a Slavic culture in the region. The site, excavated and partially 448

Cities of the World restored, includes a museum with a collection of prehistoric ceramics and tools. Roads to these places of interest are narrow, but in good condition. A personal car is the best mode of transportation, although train and bus service is available to most of the cities mentioned. Public transportation generally is crowded. Large lakes in forest settings near Poznañ provide ample opportunities to swim, fish, picnic, or camp. In some cases, these activities can be combined with visits to nearby places of interest. Arrangements also can be made to use good tennis courts. A large municipal outdoor ice rink in Poznañ is available for skating six months of the year. In addition, ice skating on the lakes is possible during the coldest periods of winter. Sledding is possible on a few hills in town and in the nearby countryside. Poznañ has two heated indoor swimming pools. Skiing is good around the tourist centers of Karpacz and Szklarska Porëba in the Sudeten Mountains southwest of Wrocïaw. Tow facilities are crowded, but are being expanded each year. A shortage of hotels and restaurants still exists in both places, so reservations should be made well in advance. Depending on winter driving conditions, the area is about five hours from Poznañ. Although Zakopane is 300 miles from Poznañ, it is a more popular ski area because of its extensive facilities. The Baltic coast north and northeast of Szczecin offers excellent beaches and swimming. Unfortunately, in recent years pollution has posed periodic problems. The resort city of Koïobrzeg has a good hotel, and nearby beaches are wide and sandy. Summer weather is usually sunny and breezy here. Lifeguards are on duty during the season, and swimming is good. The drive from Poznañ to Koïobrzeg takes about four hours and passes through some scenic countryside.

Entertainment Poznañ has an extensive opera, operetta, concert, and theater season. The opera company is uneven, but enjoyable. The Poznañ Philharmonic Orchestra, a source of great local pride, has a distinguished record of performance, and often features fine Polish and foreign guest artists. The Struligrosz and Kurczewski Boys’ Choirs are outstanding. The ballet troupe is considered quite good. Two dramatic theaters present a varied program of Polish and foreign works, and the quality usually is high. Local student theaters often produce experimental works. A puppet theater also is available. Both Polish and foreign films (often excellent) are shown in the city’s m o v i e t h e a t e r s, b u t E n g l i s h soundtracks are rarely left intact. American movies are po pu lar. Movie tickets, like tickets for opera, concert, and ballet, are not expensive. Although Poznañ has some good restaurants, menu selection is often limited because of food shortages. Some nightclubs feature floor shows. A discotheque and cabaret theater also are available. Social contact with Poles is possible, and a good knowledge of their language is an asset in Poznañ—even more so than in Warsaw—for developing acquaintances. A knowledge of German is also helpful.

Ïódý Ïódý, with a population of 807,000, is Poland’s second largest city and the capital of Ïódý Province. It is located in the central part of the country, about 75 miles west-southwest of Warsaw, and is an important industrial city and the center of Poland’s textile industry. Chartered in 1423, Ïódý was ceded to Prussia in 1793, then passed to Russia in 1815, reverting to Poland in 1918. During its years of Russian domination, it was developed into a prosperous industrial center. The

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© Steve Raymer/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Aerial view of Gdansk, Poland

Nazis incorporated Ïódý at the beginning of World War II, renaming it Litzmannstadt and subjecting it to aggressive Germanization. Today, aside from textiles, Ïódý manufactures machinery, electrical equipment, chemicals, and metals. It is an episcopal see, and has a technical university which was founded in 1945. Its Central Weaving Museum has amassed an impressive collec tion of tools, machinery, and documents relating to the history of the textile industry. The city also has museums of art and archaeology, and is the site of a physics research center affiliated with Warsaw’s Polish Academy of Sciences.

Wrocïaw Wrocïaw, known as Breslau when it was under German authority, is the capital of the province of the same name in the southwestern region of

Lower Silesia. Originally a Slavic settlement, the city became the capital of the duchy of Silesia in 1163. It was sacked by the Mongols in 1241, but was rebuilt by German settlers, and passed to Bohemia in 1335. Breslau was ceded to the Hapsburgs in 1526 and to Prussia in 1742. It grew into a prosperous trade center in the 19th century. After World War II, when the city was a Nazi-held fortress, the German inhabitants were expelled. Today Wrocïaw, with a population of 638,000, is a river port and railway center manufacturing machinery, iron goods, textiles, railroad equipment, and food products. Its historic sites include a 13th-century cathedral and several Gothic churches in the old island districts of Ostrów Tumski and Ostrów Piaskowy. The city houses a noted university, founded in 1811. There are several schools of higher education here, including the Osso-

lineum, a scientific institute founded in the Ukrainian city of Lvov in 1817, and transferred to Wrocïaw in 1947. Numerous museums of art, natural history, and mineralogy display impressive exhibits. International programs of vocal music and a festival of jazz are held here regularly; the latter is known as “Jazz on the Odra,” in recognition of the river (in English, Oder) which flows through the city. Wrocïaw is the site of a large zoo; the botanical gardens within the park exhibit a broad variety of plant life. Several small cities of historical interest are situated in the vicinity of Wrocïaw—Sobótka, Oleõnica, Trzebnica—as are a number of popular health and recreation resorts. There is skiing in the Karkonosze range of the Sudetic Mountains. 449

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OTHER CITIES BIELSKO-BIALA (in German, Bielitz) has been an important wool center since at least the Middle Ages. Situated in the far south, 190 miles southwest of Warsaw, this city of some 180,000 residents was formed in 1950 when two towns on opposite sides of the Biala River merged. In World War II, German forces took over Bielsko-Biala’s mostly Jewish-owned plants. The region declined after Soviet annexation of Polish land following the war. The economy is still dependent upon the production of high-grade woolen textiles. BYDGOSZCZ (in German, Bromberg) is the capital of Bydgoszcz Province, located about 150 miles northwest of Warsaw. It serves as a vital water-transport route and railroad junction linking Upper Silesia with the Baltic Sea. The city had its beginnings as a frontier outpost and, later, was seized by the Teutonic Knights. Bydgoszcz prospered in the 1700s after the building of the Bydgoszcz Canal, which connected the Vistula and Oder Rivers. The city received the Grunwald Cross in 1946 for its fierce resistance to Nazi attack seven years earlier. Today Bydgoszcz has a population of approximately 387,000. It has higher institutions of agriculture and engineering. CZËSTOCHOWA is a major religious center, located about 70 miles northwest of Kraków in the south. Wi t h a p o p u l a t i o n o f r o u g h l y 257,000, this is the destination for Poles making pilgrimages to the Jasna Góra monastery. The noted painting of “Our Lady of Czëstochowa” (or “The Black Madonna”) is displayed here, along with rare frescoes. The city began as two regions, Old Czëstochowa, dating to the 13th century, and Jasna Góra (“shining mountain” in Polish), founded 100 years later. The monastery became the stronghold for Polish forces in the Swedish invasions of 1655 and 1705. This is also a major industrial city of mills and manufacturing plants. 450

Old Town in Warsaw

GDAÑSK, formerly known as Danzig, is one of the chief Polish ports on the Baltic Sea and an important industrial center. Established as the Free City of Danzig under the League of Nations, this municipality of approximately 459,000 is the capital of Gdañsk Province in northern Poland. Its shipyards were made famous by an uprising against the Communist regime in 1970, and as the site of the birth of Solidarity (Solidarnoõé) in 1980. Gdañsk was annexed to Germany during World War II, and suffered the destruction of many of its landmarks during hostilities. Ninety percent of the city lay in rubble. The Allies unconditionally returned the city to Poland in 1945. There is an annual film festival in Gdañsk and the live productions of the Teatr Muzyczny in Gdynia, ten miles northwest of Gdañsk, are not to be missed. KIELCE, located 90 miles south of Warsaw in the south-central region, is an industrial center and provincial capital. This railroad junction of 212,000 residents has landmarks such as a castle and 12th-century cathedral. Kielce was founded in 1173 by the bishop of Kraków. Russian and German forces battled here several times in World War I; German troops occupied the city in World War II.

Courtesy of Melissa Doig

SZCZECIN, known in German as Stettin, is a major Baltic port and industrial center in northwestern Poland. It has a population of about 417,000. The city was heavily damaged by repeated bombings in World War II, and taken by Soviet troops in late April 1945 after a long and devastating battle. Szczecin, which is the capital of the province of the same name, is the birthplace of Czarina Katarina II of Russia (Catherine the Great).

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Postwar Poland, including the lands placed under Polish administration at the Potsdam Conference (1945), covers about 120,000 square miles, an area about the size of New Mexico. Poland ranks seventh in Europe in area and population, with an estimated population of 38,654,000. Most of the country consists of lowland plains. In the north are the Baltic Sea coast and a broad belt of lake land. In the center are broad, low-lying plains and vast forest

Poland

Cities of the World belts. To the south, the land passes into chains of mountains—the Sudetic (in Polish, Sudety) in the west and the Carpathians in the east. These mountains combine to form the southern boundary of Poland. The Tatra Mountains, a part of the Carpathian chain, are the highest in Poland; Rysy mountain rises 8,212 feet above sea level. At the foot of the Tatras lies the town of Zakopane, a famous winter sports center. Poland is bordered by the Baltic Sea and a small section of the Russian Federation to the north, Lithuania, Belarus, and the Ukraine to the east, the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the south, and Germany to the west. One main seaport, Szczecin, is near the German border. Poland’s two other major port cities, Gdañsk and Gdynia, lie about 170 miles farther east at the mouth of the Vistula River. Many summer resorts with beautiful beaches lie along the Baltic coast (although the water is too polluted for swimming). About 200 miles north of Warsaw, surrounded by the greatest forest in the country, is a belt of lakes stretching from Olsztyn to Augustów. Good camping and fishing abound. The main rivers are the Vistula (Wisïa), on which Warsaw and Kraków are situated; the Odra or Oder, whose northern course forms a part of the border with the Germany; the Narew, in northeastern Poland; the Warta, on which Poznañ is located; and the Bug, which partially forms Poland’s eastern boundary. Poland has a continental European climate. Winters can be severe, with heavy snows possible from December to March. Winter temperatures in Warsaw average about 32°F. The lowest temperature in recent years was recorded at -22°F. Spring is usually cold and rainy, and summer relatively cool. The highest temperature recorded recently in Warsaw was 94°F. Autumn is usually cloudy and can be quite cold. Yearly rainfall averages about 23.5 inches.

Poland has no diseases caused by climate, and mildew is not a problem because humidity is usually low. Earthquakes do not occur, and snowslides in the mountains normally are not hazardous.

Population Poland’s population is predomin a t e l y Po li s h . S ma l l G e r m a n , Ukrainian, Byelorussian, and Jewish minorities, and even smaller Lithuanian, Czech, and Slovak colonies exist. Warsaw’s population is about 1,618,000.

ties. There are a few ministers with no party affiliations. Poland’s president, who serves as the country’s head of state, has a five-year term. The Polish president is the commander of their armed forces and may veto legislation passed by Parliament. Poland is divided into 49 provinces, each of which is headed by a provincial governor appointed by the central government. There are also independent locally elected city and village governments.

95 percent of the population is Roman Catholic. Church attendance is high, and Catholic holy days are strictly observed by most of the people.

The flag of Poland displays equal horizontal bands of white (above) and red.

Government

Arts, Science, Education

Poland is organized as a parliamentary democracy according to the constitution adopted in 1992. Poles enjoy largely unfettered rights to free speech, press, and assembly, as well as other commonly accepted Western human rights. Poland has a bicameral parliament, comprising a lower house and upper house. Within the legislative branch of the government, the lower house has most of the power; the upper house may only suggest amendments to legislation passed by the lower house. Both parties are democratically elected. The President may dissolve the parliament and call new elections if it fails a vote of confidence or does not approve a budget within a set period of time. The Polish Prime Minister, currently Leszek Miller, is nominated by the President, currently Aleksander Kwasniewski, and must propose a government that could win a vote of confidence in the lower house. He chairs the Council of Ministers and serves as Poland’s chief of government. There are 18 cabinet members, 3 of whom serve as deputy prime ministers, mostly drawn from the governing coalition par-

Polish intellectual and cultural life has preserved much of its traditional vigor and creativity despite years of communist rule and the political difficulties of recent years. Historically, Poland’s cultural ties have been with the West rather than with the East, although there had been sporadic attempts in the postwar years to force Polish creativity into orthodox communist a n d S o v i e t - m o d e l s t r u c t u r e s. Po l a n d h a s f o r m a l c u l t u r a l exchange agreements with many countries from both East and West, ensuring a fairly steady flow of Polish artists and intellectuals abroad and of foreign performers to Poland. In the period following the proclamation of martial law on December 13, 1981, many Polish actors, directors, writers, filmmakers, and other intellectuals boycotted governmentsponsored cultural activities as a sign of protest. Now, with the communists out of power, cultural life is showing greater independence. Cultural and intellectual associations are forming, and these have begun to support and invigorate creative activities. 451

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Commerce and Industry Poland is undergoing a profound transformation as the government rapidly introduces a free-market system to replace the centrally planned economy. During 1990, the economic reform program stopped hyperinflation, stabilized the currency, brought an end to chronic shortages of consumer goods, and produced a sizable trade surplus. At the same time, however, the economy suffered a recession, with sharp declines in industrial production and real incomes and steadily increasing unemployment. The United States and other Western countries supported the growth of a free enterprise economy by providing direct economic aid, restructuring the debt and rescheduling payments, and encouraging private investment in Poland. By the mid-1990s, Poland’s economy was one of the strongest in Eastern and Central Europe as a result of its government’s fiscal policies. Most growth since 1991 has come from the emerging private sector. Nearly 30 percent of Poland’s work force is engaged in agriculture, and 51 percent in services. Unlike the industrial sector, Poland’s agricultural sector remained largely in private hands during the decades of communist rule. Production of wheat, feed-grains, vegetable oils, and protein meals is insufficient to meet domestic demands. However, Poland is a leading producer in Eastern Europe of potatoes, rape seed, sugar beets, grains, hogs, and cattle. Attempt to increase domestic feed grain production are hampered by the short growing season, poor soil, and the small size of farms. Before World War II, Poland’s industrial base was concentrated in the coal, textile, chemical, machinery, iron, and steel sectors. Today it extends to fertilizers, petrochemicals, mach ine tools, electrical machinery, electronics, and shipbuilding. Accordingly, exports have 452

Cities of the World become more diversified, including those to hard-currency markets; meat, coal, and copper remain important export commodities. Poland’s industrial base suffered greatly during World War II, and much of the investments in the 1950s were directed toward reconstruction. The need to rebuild existing capacities and the orthodox communist economic system imposed on Poland in the late 1940s resulted in the intense centralizat i o n o f i n d u s t r i e s. L a r g e a n d unwieldy economic structures operated under detailed central command. In part becaus e of this systemic rigidity, with the emphasis on central planning, the economy performed poorly even in comparison with other economies in Eastern Europe. A vital element of the economic reform is the privatization of stateowned enterprises. Enabling legislation was passed by the Sejm in July 1990. A Ministry of Ownership Transformation was been created to oversee the conversion of state enterprise into private firms and prepare guidelines for the creation of a stock market. The challenge facing the Polish government is how to privatize thousands of state enterprises, while preventing profiteering and cushioning the work force against unemployment as many large, unprofitable state firms face bankruptcy. As a result of the economic reform program, prices for consumer goods have risen in response to market forces. Demand has been dampened by falling real wages, whose growth is tied to increases in productivity. The serious consumer shortages that were once endemic to the Polish economy have now largely disappeared. Poland maintains a Chamber of Foreign Trade at Skyrtla Pocztowa 361, Warsaw (Trebacka, 4).

Transportation Warsaw is served by a number of airlines—LOT, Swissair, Aeroflot,

Sabena, SAS, Air France, KLM, Lufthansa, British Airways, and others—to most European capitals. Airline tickets for international travel must be purchased with hard currency. LOT operates several daily flights f r o m Wa r s a w t o K r a k ó w a n d Poznañ. It also is possible to travel by rail or auto directly to Vienna, Prague, Munich, and Berlin. A daily car-ferry service is available between Õwinoujõcie (about one hour’s drive north of Szczecin) and Ystaad, Sweden. The crossing takes about seven hours. Reservations should be made well in advance, especially during the summer tourist season. Most main roads in Poland are good all-weather roads by European standards. Important towns and places of interest are served by inexpensive trains. Principal cities also are served by the national airline (LOT) at moderate fares. A countrywide network of bus lines exists, but buses are usually crowded and uncomfortable and are rarely used by Americans. Tickets for travel in Poland are reasonable and may be purchased for zïotys (the unit of currency). Warsaw buses and streetcars can be cro wded and sl ow during rush hours. Cabs are available at stands, or sometimes can be hailed. Public transportation in Kraków and Poznañ is not extensive and is crowded at rush hour. Most Americans in these cities travel by personal car. Motorists must obey signs that close roads to traffic or indicate restricted areas, and should be alert to emergency vehicles with flashing lights, since these vehicles always have the right-of- way. Ambulances are beige with a red or blue cross on the side, fire trucks are red, and police vehicles usually are grey or blue with “MILICJA” printed in large letters on the doors. An international driver’s license obtained outside Poland is valid for

Poland

Cities of the World one year after entering the country and is recommended for all new arrivals. Polish licenses are issued based upon valid foreign permits and an oral examination conducted by a Polish traffic office. Traffic moves on the right. Motorists must exercise extreme caution while driving, since numerous horse-drawn carts, tractors with wagons, trucks, and pedestrians are constant hazards on both highways and streets. Night driving is dangerous. O wn i ng a n a ut o mo bi le c a n be expensive here. Rough cobblestone roads subject cars to heavy wear and tear. Vandalism is a problem; foreign cars seem to be prime targets. Although adequate work can be done on some foreign cars, repair service for American makes is hard to arrange and seldom satisfactory. No parts for American vehicles are available in Poznañ or Kraków, or in the other large cities, except Warsaw. American cars must be driven to Western Europe for major maintenance. Poznañ has authorized repair facilities for many major West European makes, but stocks of spare parts are limited. A fully licensed Volkswagen repair shop at Leszno, 50 miles south of Poznañ, has a good supply of spare parts and performs required maintenance and periodic checks. Polish law requires cars to have directional signals and mud flaps. U.S. officials in Poland recommend export-grade, heavy-duty shock absorbers and springs, snow tires for winter, and an engine that can run on regular gas. Emission controls are not required, and cars appear to run better in Warsaw without such controls. Major repairs to automatic transmissions must be done in Germany. The Polish State Insurance Company (WARTA) sells third-party liability insurance (required in Poland) at nominal cost. WARTA also offers collision, fire, theft, and other special coverage, both inside and outside Poland, but rates for foreign-made cars are high. Insur-

ance is also available from a few American or Western European agencies which insure vehicles in Poland.

Network (AFN) broadcasts from Germany cannot be heard most of t h e t i m e i n e i t h e r Wa r s aw o r Kraków. Shortwave radio is rarely listened to any longer.

Most resident Americans have Polish liability coverage, and supplement it with international “green card” insurance for trips outside the country. The U.S. Embassy strongly emphasizes the importance of insurance coverage and careful driving.

Poland’s print media are among the most interesting and informative in Eastern Europe. Time, Newsweek, USA Today, and other Western periodicals are sold at major hotels.

Communications

The American and British embassies together produce a daily English-language summary of the Polish press.

Telephone and telegraph service is available to Western Europe and the U.S. Service is slower and less reliable than in America, but is adequate in emergencies. Rates within Poland are inexpensive; standard world rates usually are charged for international calls. International mail via Polish (PTT) facilities is unreliable. Bad weather and canceled flights frequently result in turnaround times of over one month from the date a letter is mailed to Warsaw from the U.S. until a reply is received. Turnaround time for Kraków, Poznañ, and other cities is even longer. Polish radio and television have proliferated since 1993, when the government began for the first time to award broadcast licenses to private stations. Polish viewers can now choose from broadcasting all over the world with cable. Like most European countries, Poland has a state-owned national television system which broadcasts in both color and black-and-white. Polish TV frequently shows British and American films dubbed in Polish, as well as some old American TV series. The conversion of American TV sets is costly and not always satisfactory. Sets can be rented in Poland. Poland has hundreds of radio stations on AM and FM bands. Daytime shortwave reception of British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) is g o o d . Vo i c e o f A m e r i c a ( VO A ) English broadcasts usually can be heard without difficulty morning and evening. U.S. Armed Forces

Health Arrangements can be made for medical consultations and for treatment in local hospitals. U.S. officials, however, discourage the practice except in emergencies. Some Americans are satisfied with the available services but, in most cases, go to Western Europe for serious medical problems and major dental work. Eye care can be obtained locally. Medical services of all types are more limited and of lower quality in Kraków than in Warsaw. However, services at American Children’s Hospital are good; adults are treated in emergencies. Air pollution is a problem in Kraków. It is caused by industries in and near the city, and by its location in a basin. Poland’s community sanitation is generally satisfactory. Flies are a problem, even though most U.S.-owned and -leased apartments and houses are screened. Rest rooms in restaurants, theaters, hotels, and other public places are usually below American standards o f s a n i t a t i o n a n d c l e an l i n e s s, although some upgrading has been evident in recent years with the marked increase in tourist trade. Colds, bronchial ailments, sinusitis, and intestinal flu are common, especially in winter. A form of gastroenteritis is prevalent in spring and summer. Poland is considered a “jaundice area.” Inoculation against 453

Poland typhoid is desirable, especially for those who plan to travel to remote parts of the country. Gamma globulin is recommended. Raw fruits and vegetables require careful washing or peeling. The water purity is questionable, and it is recommended that all water for human consumption be boiled for 20 minutes. Some Americans resident in Warsaw drink one brand of locally pasteurized milk which is considered safe, but which often sours within a day or two.

Clothing and Services Heavy coats and hats are needed for Poland’s winters. Ski suits or warm jackets and slacks and heavy socks are useful for outdoor activities; warm underwear is a necessity for all family members. A good supply of shoes and boots (tennis and dress shoes, sandals, rubber rain boots, and lined winter boots for children) should be part of every wardrobe. It is difficult to purchase suitable footwear locally. Men’s woolen suits worn in the U.S. are satisfactory for winter, but some men prefer heavier suits and vests during the coldest months. Fur hats, purchased locally, are popular. For summer, lightweight suits are adequate. Women wear woolen clothing of various weights throughout most of the year, although lighter clothing worn with sweaters or jackets is good for summer. Leotards, heavy-weight stockings, pantsuits, sweaters, warm jersey blouses, and wool slacks are suggested for the coldest months. It is advisable to bring a supply of nylon pantyhose from home; they are available locally, but sizes and colors are limited. Polish women and resident foreigners are fashion conscious. Children need the usual wool, corduroy, and other heavy clothing. A Mid-Atlantic wardrobe, supplemented by heavy sweaters, is suit454

Cities of the World able for Warsaw. Flannel pajamas are desirable most of the year. Availability of children’s clothing on the local market is limited, making it necessary to have a good initial supply. School uniforms are not worn. Tailors and dressmakers are generally satisfactory in the large cities of Poland, and also are fairly inexpensive. A few do excellent work copying from fashion magazines. Yard goods, especially linen, silk, and wool, are often scarce, and quality sewing notions also are difficult to find. Shoe repair services suffer from lack of materials. Warsaw has several good beauty shops which keep pace with the latest styles. Similar shops, although fewer in number, are also available in other major cities. Repairs on appliances are adequate and reasonably inexpensive, but sometimes slow. Supplies of personal and household items are generally available, although brands vary. Stationery and gift wrappings are difficult to find locally, and often costly. Christmas decorations are lovely and inexpensive here.

Domestic Help Hard-working and dependable domestic help is available, and most resident Americans employ at least one domestic. Singles often hire part-time help. Cooks who are familiar with French and American cuisine are a rarity, but some who have worked for families from the U.S. can prepare American dishes. Salaries vary according to responsibility. The social security scheme, which covers health insurance, must be paid for by the employer; if uniforms are desired, those are also the responsibility of the employer. Meals are provided for all domestics. Some apartments and homes have domestics’ living quarters. Few domestics speak English, so it is helpful to learn numbers, a few cooking phrases, and as much shopping vocabulary as possible before moving here.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 3 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 3 . . . . . . . . . . Constitution Day May/June . . . . . . . Corpus Christi Day* Aug.15. . . . . . . . . . Assumption of the Virgin Mary Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints' Day Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day *Variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Several international air carriers serve Poland. The most frequently traveled auto route is from Frankfurt to Berlin, and from there on Highway E-8 to Poznañ and Warsaw. Other routes are from Nuremberg to Prague to Cieszyn (on the Polish border) and north to Warsaw, or from Vienna north through Brno to Warsaw. Check visa requirements. Travel by train through Prague or Vienna also is possible. When driving in Eastern Europe, one should add about 50 percent more time than would normally be expected, since time is lost at border crossing points, in auto servicing, and in passing through small towns and villages. There are no quarantine requirements for pets. Health certificates and proof of rabies inoculation (within six months, and not less than six weeks before arrival) are the only necessary documentation. Only those holding diplomatic passports may import, buy, or own firearms and ammunition. Poland is predominantly Roman Catholic, and churches are numerous throughout the country. In Warsaw, one Catholic church has an

Poland

Cities of the World English mass every Sunday. The city’s Methodists have Sunday services in Polish. The one synagogue has traditional services year round, and Christian Scientists and other denominations have regular services except during summer. An Anglican clergyman visits Warsaw several times a year, and holds communion services for all Christians. Interdenominational services are held on special occasions in an auditorium at the U.S. Embassy. Kraków has more than 85 Roman Catholic churches. There also are a Lutheran and a Baptist church (services in Polish), and a synagogue (without a rabbi) which holds Sabbath services. Kraków is the headquarters of ZNAK, a club of Catholic intellectuals, some of whom speak English. Poznañ has many Catholic churches, and four Protestant churches representing different denominations. No English church services are available, and Poznañ does not have a synagogue. The time in Poland is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus one.

The basic unit of Polish currency is the zïoty. Import and export of zïotys is prohibited. Poland uses the metric system of weights and measures.

RECOMMENDED READING

Hall General Reference & Travel, 1991. Kaminski, Bartlomiej. The Collapse of State Socialism: The Case of Poland. Princeton University Press, 1991. Kemp-Welch, A. The Birth of Solidarity, 2nd ed. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991. Latawski, Paul, ed. The Reconstruction of Poland, 1914–1923. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1992.

The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country:

Michener, James A. Poland. New York: Random House, 1983.

Blazyca, George, and Ry szar d Rapacki, eds. Poland into the 1990s. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991.

Sanford, George, ed. & tr. Democratisation in Poland, 1988–1990: Polish Voices. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1992.

Davies, Norman. Heart of Europe: A Short History of Poland. New York: Oxford University Press, 1986.

Sein, Dominique. Poland. Countries of the World Series. New York: French & European Publications, 1992.

Dobroszycki, Lucjan, and Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett. Image Before My Eyes: A Photographic History of Jewish Life in Poland. New York: Schocken Books, 1987.

Shen, Raphael. The Polish Economy: Legacies from the Past, Prospects for the Future. Westport, CT: Greenwood Publishing, 1992.

D u n f o r d , M ar t i n . R ea l G u i d e : Poland 1991. New York: Prentice-

Swick, Thomas. Unquiet Days: At Home in Poland. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1991.

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Lisbon, Portugal

PORTUGAL Portuguese Republic

Major Cities: Lisbon, Ponta Delgada, Azores, Oporto, Coimbra Other Cities: Aveiro, Braga, Covilhã, Funchal, Matosinhos, Montijo, Setúbal, Vila Nova de Gaia

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated January 1996. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Known is antiquity as Lusitania, PORTUGAL is one of Europe’s oldest independent countries. It has been a sovereign state since the 12th century, when it vanquished the Castilians and the Moors who had long held the peninsula. Before that time, the area had been overrun or occupied by Celts, Romans, and Visigoths. While briefly ruled by Spain in 1580-1640, in the 15th and 16th centuries, the young Portuguese nation opened the sea lanes of the world, leading the way in explorations and discoveries, and founding an empire in America, Africa, and Asia. Portugal became a dependent ally of Great Britain in the latter years of

the 17th century. It was occupied by France from 1807 to 1814 and, after a revolt in 1820, entered a troubled period during which it lost its longestablished claim to Brazil. A republic was established a decade after the turn of the 20th century a n d , a l t h o u g h Po r t u g a l s i d e d against Germany in the first World War, it remained officially neutral (but friendly to the Allies) in World War II. In 1961, India seized control of Portugal’s provinces of Goa, Damão, and Diu. Revolts and independence movements began in several of the remaining colonies in the early 1960s. During the unsettled period after the April 1974 revolution, most of Portugal’s African and Asian colonies were given or took their independence. Indonesia annexed Portugal’s Timor possessions in 1976, over protest. Portugal’s only remaining Asian colony is Macau, which is scheduled to return to Chinese control in 1999. The nation has seen centuries of monarchy and, in recent times, years of dictatorship. After the “April 25” revolution in 1974, a series of six provisional governments were formed in the space of two years. By the late 1970s, the situation was much less volatile, though no party was able to draw a majority. In 1987, the Social Demo-

crats became the first party in 13 years to win an absolute majority of legislative seats; they maintained the majority in the 1991 election.

MAJOR CITIES Lisbon Lisbon stretches over several hills on the north side of the Tagus River. The city faces south across one of Europe’s finest bays toward the Arrabida mountain range about 25 miles away. The bay’s entrance is spanned by Europe’s longest suspension bridge—the April 25 Bridge—with a main span of 1,108 yards. Lisbon presents a contrasting picture of old, narrow alleyways and tiled buildings that reveal its Moorish heritage next to broad, modern boulevards, new apartment buildings, and parks. There is an abundance of trees (including palms, evergreens, and numerous deciduous varieties), and a month without flowers is a rare one indeed. Lisbon is the cultural, commercial and administrative center of the nation. The population of Lisbon proper is approximately 663,000; greater Lisbon’s population is 457

Portugal

Cities of the World

approximately 2,561,000. Although less populous than many other major capitals, Lisbon is nonetheless quite congested from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm, a situation which is exacerb a t e d b y t h e n a r r o w, w i n d i n g streets, many of them one-way. Traffic is generally disorderly in town, and it is always hazardous along the main coastal road.

Food Food is available in ample variety and quantity. Seasonal fresh fruits and vegetables are of good quality. The variety and quality of frozen goods has improved greatly with Portugal’s accession into the Common Market. A large assortment of local and imported canned goods is available. Pork, lamb, and a wide variety of fish are excellent, although the shellfish is quite expensive; beef is not aged and may not appeal to American tastes; veal is periodically available. Local hams, bacon and other lunch meats are excellent. Pasteurized fresh milk (whole, partskim and skim) is readily available. On the coast, many people have milk delivered to their homes. Portuguese butter and cheese are excellent, and there is a large assortment of European cheeses in some markets. Sour cream and cottage cheese are not available, but there are close substitutes which are imported from France. Freshly baked Portuguese bread is very popular with Americans. A variety of whole-grain breads is available as well as traditional types. Home bread deliveries are possible.

Clothing Clothing requirements are much the same as for the Mid-Atlantic, except that heavy snow wear is not required. A good raincoat with a zipout wool lining is an excellent investment. Summers can be hot, and winters can be chilly and damp. Dress tends to be formal and conservative among the older generation, but less so among the younger. A good supply of sweaters and woolens are needed in winter, as most 458

houses are poorly heated and stay cold and damp. Warm sleepwear and slippers are essential. Umbrellas and rainwear are necessary. The cobbled streets and sidewalks are hard on shoes, and it is difficult to find good walking shoes here. Running and tennis shoes are available, but there is not a great variety and they tend to be more expensive than in the states. There is a good assortment of swimwear available locally, ranging from the reasonably priced to very expensive designer models. Clothing tends to be pricey in Portugal. Bargains can be found during sales or at the local markets. Formal attire for men can be rented or tailored here at a price comparable to the Mid-Atlantic area. Formal attire for women is expensive and difficult to find off the rack.

Men: Clothing suitable for the MidAtlantic is suitable for Lisbon. Good quality ready-to-wear clothing can be expensive. Less expensive clothing is available, particularly in the open-air markets; however sizes tend to be smaller than in the U.S., a Portuguese large being equivalent to medium in the states. Excellent tailor-made suits, slacks, and jackets are available at higher prices than good ready-to-wear items in the U.S. Portuguese sweaters and woolens in general are a good buy.

Good dressmakers are available, but can be just as expensive as buying ready made clothing. Imported fabrics tend to be expensive, but Portuguese wool is attractive and reasonably priced. It is difficult to find ready-to-wear evening clothes. Women are advised either to bring their formal attire or to bring the fabric and have it made here. Evening shoes are also difficult to find. Jewelry (both genuine and costume) is lovely and is a good buy when compared to the rest of Europe.

Children: G o o d q u a l i t y r e a d y made clothing is available for children. Prices are generally much higher than in the U.S., the assortment is not nearly so wide, and is often not to American children’s taste (except for very expensive clothing). Children’s tennis shoes, in familiar brands, are available locally, although they are almost double in price.

Supplies and Services Supplies: A broad selection of toiletries, cosmetics and home remedies is available in Lisbon. Since Portugal has joined the Common Market, there is an increase in the variety of European cosmetics and toiletries available for a higher price than in the U.S.

Basic Services: Dry cleaning ser-

Women: Ready-made clothing is

vices are adequate but expensive. Several self-service laundromats, which include dry cleaning machines, now operate in Lisbon and the suburbs. Shoe repair shops provide fine work at reasonable prices.

available here but tends to be shortwaisted for some American figures. Designer fashions at high prices are available. Shoes are very attractive, although prices now are equal to or higher than those in the U.S. Shoes larger than a size 8 are difficult to find. Good stockings/hose are difficult to find, not usually of high quality and very expensive. Boots are reasonably priced. Lingerie, both Portuguese and from other European countries, is expensive.

Irish Dominican priests hold English-language Roman Catholic services in Lisbon, S. Pedro do Estoril, and Cascais. An interdenominational American Protestant church holds English-language services each Sunday in Cascais. An Anglican church in Lisbon, and its sister church in Estoril, hold weekly services in English. The Mormon Church has an active congregation

While Portuguese shoes are attractive, many believe they do not last as long or fit as comfortably as American shoes. Large sizes can be difficult to find.

Religious Activities

Portugal

Cities of the World in both Lisbon and the western suburbs. There is a small synagogue in Lisbon. There are Baptist and Evangelical missionary groups headquartered in Lisbon with American missionaries and Portuguese orientation. There is religious education available for Catholic children (to which they are transported by school bus after school if they attend the American International School). Other churches offer prayer and study groups.

Education T here are a few schools to which American travelers send their children. In general, families have been pleased with the schools their children attend. The American International School offers grades PK–12. A portion of the student body is American, with the remainder either Portuguese or third-country nationals. Students attend one of three campuses: grades 5–12 are located on the larger campus in Carnaxide (about midway between Lisbon and Estoril), grades PK–1 are located in a converted house in Sao Joao do Estoril, and grades 2–4 are located in a converted house in Monte Estoril. Bus service is provided. Teaching methods and materials are American. AP courses are offered, as is ESL, but essentially no other special education is offered. Contact the school if you have needs in this area. Most teachers are hired in the United States. St. Dominic’s School is an Irish Dominican Roman Catholic school. The school has modern facilities and is located near Carcavelos (between Lisbon and Estoril). It accepts pupils from kindergarten through grade 12 regardless of religious affiliation. The student body includes many American children as well as other nationalities. Texts and classroom methods are British and the International Baccalaureate diploma is now offered. Bus service is available. Uniforms are required. St. Julian’s School is the British school. It is located in Carcavelos, in

splendid grounds. It is based on the British system. Kindergarten through grade 13 (and the International Baccalaureate diploma) are offered. The school has both an English and a Portuguese section. Americans wishing to enroll their children in St. Julian’s should apply as far in advance as possible, and even then there is no assurance that there will be space. The school has a waiting list for admission, and British children are given first preference. The school year begins in midSeptember and ends in July. Uniforms are required. Bus service is not available. The International Preparatory School is a small school which has classes from nursery school through grade 5. It is located in Carcavelos and has been used successfully in the past few years by several American families. It offers a mixed British/American curriculum. The American Christian International Academy was founded in 1981 to provide an American education from a Christian perspective. Many families of diplomats, U.S. military, business personnel and missionaries have taken advantage of the academic emphasis at ACIA. It offers an American curriculum for grades K–8.

Special Educational Opportunities The Universities of Aveiro, Coimbra, and Lisbon provide courses for foreigners in Portuguese literature, history and philosophy. Credits earned here cannot be transferred to an American university and vice versa. University of Maryland Overseas offers classes irregularly.

Sports Portugal offers a variety of sports, i n c l u d i n g s o c c e r, t e n n i s, g ol f, squash, horseback riding, polo, swimming, sailing, fishing, hunting, hiking, and softball, among others. Wind surfing, water skiing, surfboarding, and scuba diving are popular. Soccer and bull fighting are the major spectator sports, although

there is some auto racing (including a Portuguese Grand Prix) and bicycle racing.

Touring and Outdoor Activities As would be imagined, sight-seeing trips are easily arranged. Costs are moderate in comparison to other European countries. Portugal operates state inns called “pousadas,” which offer fine lodgings, often in remote areas. In the past, these were a bargain. A system of bedand-breakfast lodgings (often in stately homes) under the auspices of the national tourist bureau has been instituted, and guests have brought back rave reviews from their stays in these homes (known as “turismo de habitaçao”). The Algarve offers a wide range of accommodations, ranging from campgrounds to luxury resort complexes. Most towns have at least one hotel and a couple of pensions. There are numerous campgrounds, particularly in the north of the country. Lisbon has lovely tree-lined and flower-filled parks, numerous children’s playgrounds, a fine small zoo, botanical gardens, an aquarium, museums, galleries, cathedrals, palaces, and castles. The Royal Coach Museum is reputed to have the finest collection of royal and state coaches in the world. Day trips to Evora, Fatima, Batalha, the walled villages of Obidos, Marvao, Monsaraz and Estremoz and other sites of interest are possible. Madrid is approximately 8 hours by car, Seville is about 5 or 6, Merida (with glorious Roman ruins) about 4 hours. Atlantic Ocean temperatures north of Lisbon seldom rise above 60°F because the Gulf Stream does not flow near enough to temper the cold waters. The Algarve’s water temperatures are warmer, although still cold by American standards. Carcavelos, Estoril, and Cascais (near Lisbon) have beautiful protected beaches, but they are currently considered to be unsafe for swimming because of nearby sewage disposal. (Nonetheless, they are filled with 459

Portugal

Cities of the World

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Rossio Square in Lisbon

bathers.) There is presently a massive sewage cleanup program in operation, and there are promises of clean sea water within the next couple of years. Farther west and north of Lisbon are Guincho, Praia Grande, and Praia das Maças. Five miles southwest across the Tagus River on the Costa da Caparica one can find safe bathing beaches. There are many more fine beaches further from Lisbon. Most provide chair and/or cabana rental by the hour, day, or even longer. Several hotels on the Costa do Sol near Lisbon have large fresh or treated saltwater swimming pools which non-guests may use for a fee. The Quinta da Marinha (a golf and country club), and the Cascais Country Club, to name just two, have membership fees, comparable to club fees in the U.S. In the suburbs, there are a number of tennis clubs (and tennis lessons), 460

golf courses (and golf lessons), riding stables (and riding lessons), and swimming pools. Golfers should bring their own golf equipment and attire with them. Golf shops have a good selection, but their prices are very high. Numerous health clubs have opened in the area in recent years, and with them opportunities for aerobic and other exercise classes. Skiing is sometimes possible in midwinter in the Serra da Estrela, about 250 kilometers northeast of Lisbon. Boots, skis, and poles can be rented. Better skiing is in the Sierra Nevada mountains near Granada, Spain.

Entertainment Movies are a popular form of entertainment, with films being shown in their original language with Portuguese subtitles. American films usually reach Portugal about 6 months

after their debut in the U.S. Current and older films from other countries are also shown, but British and American are by far the most popular. The rich ballet, opera, and concert seasons are enjoyed by all. The quality of performances is good, and the tickets are reasonably priced. Many employees buy season concert tickets for the Gulbenkian orchestra. Theater performances, usually original works by Portuguese playw r i g h t s, a l s o a b o u n d . A n international amateur dramatic group, the Lisbon Players, offers several English-language dramatic productions each year. The bullfight season runs from Easter to early October. Unlike in Spanish bullfights, the bull is not killed in Portugal, and the fight is carried on mostly on horseback. There is

Portugal

Cities of the World one major bullring in Lisbon and one in Cascais. Many people attend out-of-town fights as well. Dining out is a popular form of entertainment in Lisbon. On the Estoril coast and throughout Portugal there are countless restaurants ranging from luxurious to humble. Prices in all categories are now similar to those in the U.S., but prices are climbing. Lunch is usually served from about 1 to 3 pm, dinner from about 7:00 to 10:00 pm. There are McDonald’s and Pizza Hut chains in Lisbon, with prices slightly higher than the U.S. “Fado” is sung in many small restaurants in the Alfama and Bairro Alto, the older sections of Lisbon, as well as in a couple of night spots on the Estoril coast. Haunting in tone, tragic in theme, the fado is well beloved by the Portuguese and is to them what the blues are to Americans. The fado performances generally begin about 10 pm, with the best sets performed well after midnight. Nightclubs of varying quality, discotheques and the Estoril Casino provide further night life. Cascais has many small bars which are close replicas of English pubs.

Social Activities Among Americans: T h e A m e r i can Women of Lisbon and the American Club of Lisbon, are two active organized women’s clubs. The latter includes most of the American business community and other nationals. The annually elected Board of Directors of the former is composed of American women, but its membership is comprised of many nationalities. British and Scandinavian women are very active. Both clubs regularly schedule luncheons with featured speakers, as well as other activities. A newly formed club, International Women in Portugal, (IWP) offers many activities and a monthly luncheon at different locales. Although international in flavor, the main language is English.

Ponta Delgada, Azores The Azores archipelago, an autonomous region of the Republic of Port u g al , i s l o c a te d in t h e No rt h Atlantic about 800 miles west of Lisbon and 2,300 miles east of New York City. The Ponta Delgada district includes the nine-island archipelago composed of Sao Miguel, Terceira, Santa Maria, Graciosa, Sao Jorge, Pico, Faial, Flores, and Corvo. Total land area is 890 square miles; the estimated population is 244,000. People from Portugal, the Low Countries, France and Spain were among the first settlers; presentday inhabitants reflect their physical, cultural and linguistic characteristics. The islands are of volcanic origin characterized by steep coastlines with occasional black sand beaches. Inland, the terrain is marked by extinct volcanic craters, some with lakes and picturesque hills rising to 3,000 feet. Lush vegetation and, in season, beautiful flowers cover the countryside. The climate is temperate and the Gulf Stream wards off extremes of heat and cold. Temperatures never reach freezing and rarely go above 80°F; however, humidity often exceeds 80 percent. June through September is usually good beach weather. Winter days are chilly with high winds reaching gale force. The annual rainfall is 34 inches. In the past, the Azores were an important port of call for ships returning from the New World and those returning from India. Now, except for the cargo ships which link the archipelago with continental Portugal and the rest of the world, ships stop only for bunkering and emergency repairs. In summer, foreign cruise ships occasionally call for a day at Ponta Delgada. The principal economic activity is agriculture. About two-thirds of the land is devoted to pasture. Dairy p r o d u c t s, i n c l u d i n g e x c e l l e n t cheeses, account for a large percentage of local income as does cattle breeding. Next in importance are

canned fish, milling and feed, bakery products, sugar, tobacco, and wood. Azorean wines from Graciosa and Pico are excellent, but insufficient quantities are produced for export. Other than food processing and handicrafts (mainly embroidery, ceramics, wicker and woodworking), the Azores have little industry. According to the Autonomy Statute approved in 1976, the Azores form an autonomous region of Portugal with an elected Regional Assembly and a Regional Government responsible to the Assembly. Portuguese sovereignty is represented by the President of Portugal. The regional Government consists of a President and ten Regional Secretaries. Since the Azores have no capital, government functions are divided among the three major cities—Ponta Delgada (Sao Miguel), Angra do Heroismo (Terceira), and Horta (Faial). The Azores are represented in the national Assembly of the Republic by five deputies. The Commander-in-Chief of the Armed Forces in the Azores, with headquarters in Ponta Delgada, oversees military operations throughout the Azores and also is the NATO representative in the archipelago. Under the Commander-in-Chief, a Rear Admiral of the Portuguese Navy, supervises the small naval detachment stationed in the islands, and an Army Brigadier (equivalent to a U.S. Major General) commands infantry and artillery units. An Air Force Brigadier commands the Air Zone which includes Lajes Field (which is formally designated Portuguese Air Base 4) on Terceira. The U.S. military presence in the Azores began during World War I, when a squadron of destroyers was based at Ponta Delgada. In 1944, United States forces returned to the Azores, where they subsequently have maintained a continuous presence within the framework of a bilateral defense agreement signed in 1951. As at most bases, limited medical, educational, shopping, and social facilities are available. As 461

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with many other U.S. military installations worldwide, the U.S. presence in the Azores will be affected in coming years by planned reductions in Defense Department budget and staff.

Food In winter, the local vegetable market is restricted largely to onions, potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage, brussels sprouts, lettuce, and collard greens. Available fruits, usually imported from Lisbon, include apples, pears, tangerines, oranges, and lemons. Bananas and delicious hothouse pineapples are grown locally. Generally there is a fair variety of fruits and vegetables found in the supermarkets and public markets. The quality varies and can differ noticeably from U.S. standards. Seasonal shortages of fruits and vegetables on local markets do occur. Fresh fish is available year round except during bad weather and heavy seas. Although lobster is expensive, a few other indigenous shellfish are reasonably priced. Meat cuts offered by local butchers differ from U.S. cuts. Fresh beef, pork, liver, lamb, and kidneys are available. Portuguese hams and turkeys are expensive.

Women’s dress tends toward the conservative. Pants are worn for only the most informal occasions. Dressy suits or simple, well-cut afternoon dresses are the rule for cocktails and informal dinners on Sao Miguel. An evening wrap is necessary. Local women wear fur stoles for winter evening affairs. Imported clothing is locally available, but expensive. Dressmakers are reasonably priced but difficult to find.

Supplies and Services Basic Services: Shoe repairs are reasonably priced. Local dry cleaning is expensive and adequate, if slow. Local hairdressers are satisfactory and reasonably priced. Men’s haircuts are satisfactory and inexpensive.

Religious Activities

Sterilized (UHT) milk and good bread and pastries are readily available. Azorean cheeses are outstanding, and several excellent varieties are made in Sao Miguel.

Many Roman Catholic churches dot the island. The one synagogue is not open at present. Other denominations include both Southern and Nazarene Baptists, Seventh Day Adventists, and Mormons. All services are in Portuguese.

Excellent wines from mainland Portugal (inexpensive by U.S. standards) are readily available in local stores. Local vineyards provide vinho de cheiro, a wine of unusual flavor and aroma which goes well with the regional cuisine. Tea grown on the island of Sao Miguel is excellent.

The most important religious event on Sao Miguel is the Santo Cristo Festival. Held in Ponta Delgada every year, it peaks on the fifth Sunday after Easter. The festival attracts many people from the other islands, as well as from the United States, Canada and continental Portugal.

Clothing

“Romeiros” (pilgrimages) during Lent, “Danças dos Cadarcos” at Carnival time, the Holy Ghost celebrat i o n s i n M a y a n d Ju n e , a n d “Carvalhadas” on June 29 are some of the most interesting festivals and pageants. On Sundays during the summer, many small processions

Temperate clothing is suitable most of the year. Lightweight tropical garments can be worn only a short time in summer. A topcoat, a zipl i n e d r a i n c o a t , b o o t s, a n d a n umbrella are useful for the rainy, cold winters. Sweaters, flannel paja462

mas, and wool robes are necessities for winter. Light weight winter clothing, appropriate for centrally heated U.S. buildings, is not adequate for the drafty and unheated buildings in the Azores. Dress is conservative but becoming more informal.

can be seen in the villages throughout the islands.

Education No schools offer instruction in English.

Special Educational Opportunities The University of the Azores has no special facilities for foreign students. Music lessons by private tutors are given at the Regional Conservatory. Ballet lessons, exercise classes, and craft classes are available, as well as other private lessons

Sports A beautiful golf course is located in the hills 28 miles from Ponta Delgada. The weather is usually cloudy, chilly, and windy, so bring a golfer’s raincoat. Lajes also has an excellent golf course and a golf shop with American goods. Private tennis courts and public courts are located near Ponta Delgada. Lajes also has tennis courts. Sao Miguel has some fishing. Saltwater fish include bluefish, amberjack, marlin, tuna, and shark. Several world records have been broken by local anglers. Freshwater fishing is possible in the lakes and streams of Sao Miguel. Licenses are required. Other popular sports include soccer, basketball, volleyball, field and roller hockey, horseback riding, and ocean swimming. Lajes field has bowling alleys, ice skating and other sports facilities. Portuguese authorities limit the size of sporting rifles to .22 caliber and pistols to .32 caliber. It is possible to hunt for quail, ring doves, pigeons, and rabbits on Sundays for about 9 months of the year. A trap shooting club, located about an hour’s drive from Ponta Delgada, meets on weekends.

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Cities of the World Touring and Outdoor Activities A visit to the other islands of the archipelago is highly recommended, as each has a distinct personality and different customs, food, and even accent. Incredibly beautiful spots for picnics and camping exist everywhere, usually without the expected infrastructure, however. The islands are a photographer’s and a hiker’s paradise. Sao Miguel has beautiful lakes at the bottom of ancient craters at Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo, and Furnas. The botanical garden and the famous hot springs of Furnas are picturesque. Because of the distance and lack of relatively inexpensive transportation, travel to the Continent is limited. The interisland airline SATAAir Azores calls at eight of the islands and is the usual mode of travel. Pico, Faial, Terceira, and Sao Miguel all have at least one excellent hotel. Flores, Sao Jorge, Graciosa and Corvo have good hotels. The other islands have only small pensions, usually without private baths. For a nominal fee, you may join the local yacht club, which has swimming meets, and sailboats and wind surf boards for member use. Limited facilities are available for lessons in sailing and horseback riding. Organized activities for young children depend on the parents’ initiative. Despite a shortage of leaders, Ponta Delgada has Scout troops for boys and girls.

Entertainment Ponta Delgada has a few regular motion picture theaters. The films are predominantly American, English, French, Italian, Spanish, and German, with Portuguese subtitles. An interesting museum displays paintings, sculptures, and artisans’ crafts. The University of the Azores at Ponta Delgada sponsors some concerts and conferences with foreign guests during winter. The

Regional Directorate of Culture occasionally sponsors guest artist that are worth seeing. Discos are located in and around Ponta Delgada, and a few good restaurants and hotels serve continental food. Most restaurants stay open until after 11 pm. There is also a well known tavern in Ponta Delgada where the traditional Portuguese “Fado” is sung.

Social Activities Among Americans: Most American residents of the Azores are former Azoreans who have returned to the Azores as retirees or farmers. They are totally integrated into the local society and there is no American colony as such. There is a small group of Americans in Sao Miguel, mainly retirees, who are not LusoAmericans. Most entertaining is done in the home. Bridge and poker are popular.

International Contacts: No large colonies of foreigners live in the Azores, except for those on Flores as well as a few British, Canadian and South African retirees. During the summer months an influx of Europeans and Americans allows an opportunity for interesting social exchange. Social and professional contacts are friendly, and the ability to speak Portuguese is essential to conduct both social and business activities.

Oporto Oporto (in Portuguese, Pôrto), situated at the mouth of the Douro River some 213 miles north of Lisbon, is Portugal’s second largest city and the seat of an important administrative district. It is a chief Atlantic port, with its outer harbor at Leixões. According to the latest census (2001), Oporto proper has a population of 302,000, and Greater Oporto, almost 1.2 million. The surrounding area has a high concentration of Portuguese commerce, industry, agriculture, educa-

tional facilities, and centers of religious thought. There are many famous historical sites and cities, artistic monuments, attractive towns and villages, and varied scenery. Among the famous landmarks are the Torre dos Clérigos, an 18thcentury tower; a beautiful Gothic cathedral called Sé; and the two-storied Dom Luis Bridge which spans the Douro. The city began as a pre-Roman town, first as Cale and then as Portus Cale, and later was held by Visigoths and Moors. It was the capital of northern Portugal until 1174. Oporto gave its name to port wine when export trade of that product was established here in 1678. The temperature of Oporto’s coastal area varies moderately between a mean maximum of 74.5°F and a minimum of 58°F. In summer the temperature seldom reaches 80°F, and in winter seldom drops below freezing. Frosts are fairly frequent from December to March. Oporto winters, although comparatively mild, call for heating and warm clothing. The dampness is penetrating, as are the north and east winds. Private homes, schools, and public buildings often lack central heating and can be uncomfortably cold.

Schools for Foreigners The British community operates a school which accepts American children; its main purpose is to prepare British children for English public schools. Children from kindergarten through grade 12 are taught in small classes, with emphasis on individual attention. The French school takes children from kindergarten through grade four. The German school teaches in German through the abitur (secondary school graduation). A new international school opened in October 1986. This school teaches both a Portuguese and English curriculum aimed at preparing students for the international baccalaureate. Portuguese public schools offer free education through grade six. Public 463

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Se Cathedral and city of Oporto from Torre

and private schools charge moderate (by American standards) fees for education in the higher grades. There is a range of good private schools in the Oporto area, most of them operated by Roman Catholic orders. Two separate organizations in Oporto are dedicated to the education of handicapped and gifted children. There are several excellent nursery schools for very young children. 464

The British, German, Spanish, and Italian governments support or operate cultural institutes in Oporto, with special emphasis on the study of languages. The Instituto Luso-Britânico prepares students for British university examinations, and conducts classes in English. The German Cultural Institute, affiliated with the University of Oporto, offers language and l i t e r a t u r e cl a s s e s. C o u r s e s i n

French language and literature are offered at the Institut Français. All sponsor frequent lectures, art exhibits, and concerts, and all have libraries. The British Association’s library has a variety of current English books and reference works. The University of Oporto, with faculties of medicine, pharmacy, engineering, liberal arts, and economics, has no special facilities for foreign

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Cities of the World students. Americans with a university background and knowledge of Portuguese have been accepted as special students, but not as degree candidates. The transfer of credits from Portuguese to American universities is difficult, if not impossible. Oporto has a Conservatory of Music and a School of Fine Arts, both of which accept foreign students. Private art and music teachers are also available, as are several ballet schools.

Recreation and Entertainment Touring, hiking, and picnicking in northern Portugal are delightful. Roman and pre-Roman ruins and interesting buildings, museums, and fine scenery abound. Neighboring Spanish Galicia also offers rewarding tourist possibilities, though the narrow, winding roads often make for slow car travel. Government-built pousadas and estalagens (hostels) provide the best guest accommodations at moderate prices. Restaurants in pousadas and the better hotels generally serve international cuisine and are reliable. There are an increasing number of “bed-and- breakfast” establishments, many in stately homes. Spectator and participant sports within easy reach of Oporto include soccer, basketball, roller skating, roller hockey, tennis, golf, squash, hiking, swimming, riding, boating, fishing, and hunting. Beaches are more popular for sunbathing than for swimming because of the low water temperatures; some hotels and private clubs, however, have large pools. There is boating all along the coast. Trout are found in some streams. Snipe and quail shooting are fall and winter pastimes. Skeet and trap shooting are also available. Some bullfights (touradas) are held in northern Portugal. The tourada during the August Festa da Agonia in Viana do Castelo always draws large crowds. So do the occasional

Sunday and holiday bullfights in Póvoa do Varzim, a beach resort just north of Oporto. There is skiing high in the mount a i n s, c h i e f l y i n t h e S e r r a d a Estrela. Better facilities exist in the mountains north of Madrid. Riding is popular and horses are readily available. The Tennis Club da Foz and the Oporto Cricket and Lawn Tennis Club offer courts, restaurant, and other facilities to members. Membership possibilities vary, but all involve substantial nonrefundable entrance fees. Two golf courses are near Oporto. While tennis, golf, and other sports apparel and equipment are available locally, they are expensive. Home entertainment centering around close family life remains traditional in northern Portugal. Firstrate restaurants and nightclubs are few. Movies are a favorite evening entertainment, and many American films are screened. The best films of most countries get to Oporto eventually, normally with original s o u n d t r a c k a n d Po r t u g u e s e subtitles. The music season has been revived after a slowdown some years ago. The Gulbenkian orchestra and ballet from Lisbon offer occasional perf o r m a n c e s, a n d s o m e f o r e i g n cultural institutes (British, German, French) and the Ateneu Comercial stage a few musical and theatrical events. Most Americans in the district speak Portuguese and are U.S. citizens who have returned to the land of their birth. The native-born American community is small, consisting mostly of business representatives. There is a substantial British community, largely connected with the Port wine exporting “factors” (merchants). Organizations open to membership include a Red Cross chapter, and the Ladies’ Guild of the Anglican Church of St. James, as well as many other charitable institutions. Those who know some Portuguese will find volunteer organizations enthusiastic about proffered help. Clubs and sports

facilities are also sources of contact w i t h Po r t u g u e s e a n d B r i t i s h nationals.

Coimbra Coimbra, which flourished under the Romans and the Moors, and later as the capital of Portugal (from about 1139 to 1260), is a market center and a city of small industries, 180 miles northeast of Lisbon. It is the old capital of the former Beira province, and once bore the name Conimbriga. It also is the home of the esteemed University of Coimbra, one of the oldest universities in Europe, founded in Lisbon in 1290 and moved to its present site in 1537. The University offers courses for foreigners; its faculties of law and letters attract many expatriates. Among the university’s distinguished students were Portugal’s great epic and lyric poet, Camões (Luis Vaz de Camoëns, 1524-1580), and the 19th-century writer, José Maria Eça de Queiros. This city of 78,000 residents has many interesting buildings, among them a fine 12th-century cathedral, Sé Velha, and the cloistered church of Santa Cruz. The city, famous for its fado music and its beautiful park, overlooks the Mondego River. It was at Coimbra in 1355 that the romantic heroine Inés de Castro was murdered; Portuguese writers over the ensuing centuries have immortalized her tragic love affair with Peter I (Dom Pedro).

OTHER CITIES Known as the Venice of Portugal, AVEIRO is dominated by the Central Canal, which connects the city to the Atlantic Ocean. It is located on the Costa de Prata (Silver Coast) northeast of Lisbon, and is surrounded by salt flats, beaches, and lagoons. It is the capital of Aveiro district, and is said to be the ancient Roman city of Talabriga. Mercury mines are located in the area, and other important industries include sardine fisheries and the production 465

Portugal of sea salt. The museum here is a converted convent, and has a fine collection of religious art. The population of Aveiro is over 63,000. BRAGA, 30 miles north-northeast of Oporto, is a summer resort, but is a l s o a n o t e d r e l i g i o u s c e n t e r. Thought to have been founded by Carthaginians, it was also a Roman city (its ancient name was Bracara Augusta), and ruins from that period are still in evidence. Braga was the residence of the Portuguese court from 1093 to 1147, and an archiepiscopal see and primacy. In its 12th-century cathedral is the tomb of Henry of Burgundy, count of Portugal and father of Alfonso I. Braga was capital of the old province of Entre-Douro-e-Minho, and the ancient capital of Lusitania. Today, the city is home to over 65,000 residents. COVILHÃ is a prominent textile hub, located 130 miles northeast of Lisbon, in east-central Portugal. Wool and cotton cloth are the city’s main products; it is also a marketing area for the Cova de Beira Basin. Covilhã is in one of Portugal’s only winter sports regions; the nearby Serra da Estrela (“Range of the Stars”) mountains offer skiing resorts with panoramic views. The area is known for its cheeses, especially the ewe’s milk cheese, “Queijo da Serra.” Covilhã’s population is over 22,000. FUNCHAL lies on the southern coast of Madeira Island in the North Atlantic, about 440 miles northwest of Morocco. The capital of the island, Funchal is also a major tourist spot. Landmarks include the Quinta da Boavista orchid house, and the Museum of Sacred Art, The Funchal Festival of St. Sylvester celebrates the year’s end each December with singing, dancing, and fireworks. The city was founded in 1421 by the Portuguese navigator Joãco Gonçalves Zarco, and has had periods of Spanish and British control. Funchal has a current population of approximately 115,000. MATOSINHOS is a northwestern suburb of Oporto, situated 170 miles 466

Cities of the World north of Lisbon on the Atlantic coast. The artificial harbor here is the main port for northern Portugal’s wine exports. It is heavily used by local canneries. The Church of Bom Jesus de Bouças contains a crucifix supposedly carved by the biblical Nicodemus who helped to bury Jesus. Matosinhos was originally called Matusiny (1258); it became a town in 1853. The population is over 26,000. MONTIJO lies due east of Lisbon across the Tagus River. Its roughly 23,000 residents are employed in industries such as cork processing, and fertilizer and hardware manufacture. Oyster fisheries are also important. Empress Eugénie, a consort of Napoleon III, was the countess of Montijo. SETÚBAL, 19 miles southeast of Lisbon, was once known as Saint Yves (or Saint Ubes). It is an important port on the Bay of Setúbal, and is known for its muscatel wine, corks, and oranges, and for its shipbuilding and sardine-canning industries. It served as a royal residence in the 15th century. Setúbal’s current population is close to 104,000. VILA NOVA DE GAIA is located on the Rio Douro, immediately south of Oporto, in the northwest. It is a wine-producing city of over 63,000 residents. Port is matured and blended in its many armazéns, or wine lodges. Pottery, footwear, and textiles are also made here.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Portugal, in Europe’s southwest corner, is part of the Iberian Peninsula. With an area of 36,390 sq. miles, it is approximately the size of Indiana. The country is made up of the mainland and the Azores and Madeira Islands. On the north and east, Portugal is bordered by Spain; on the

south and west by the Atlantic Ocean. The Tagus River, flowing west into the Atlantic at Lisbon, divides mainland Portugal into two distinct topographical and climatic regions. The northern part of the country is mountainous. Its climate is relatively cool and rainy. In the south there are low, rolling plains. The climate is drier and warmer, particularly in the interior. Lying about 800 miles west of Lisbon in the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores are a chain of nine mountainous islands of volcanic origin. Their climate tends to be moist and moderate throughout the year. The total land area of the nine islands is 888 sq. miles. The two main islands and the numerous smaller, uninhabited islands that make up the Madeira chain are located in the Atlantic Ocean about 350 miles west of Morocco. The islands are mountainous and rugged, with a mild yearround climate. Total land area is slightly over 300 sq. miles. Mainland Portugal experiences two distinct seasons. From late October to mid-May rain is frequent and sometimes heavy. Temperatures may drop into the low 30’s at night during the coldest months, with daytime highs in the 50’s and 60’s. Annual variations in rainfall can be considerable, with years of flooding followed by years of drought. The remainder of the year is normally sunny with minimal rainfall. Days are pleasant, with temperatures seldom exceeding 95°F, except in the southern interior of the country. Afternoons and evenings are breezy, with nighttime temperatures in the 60’s and low 70’s. Spells of intense heat are infrequent and last only a few days.

Population The Portuguese, who numbered about 10.2 million in 2001, are a homogeneous people of Mediterranean stock. The original IberoCeltic peoples have, over the last

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Cities of the World 2,000 years, mixed with Germanic, Celtic, Roman, Arabic, and African peoples to form the population of today. The Portuguese are predominantly Roman Catholic, have a literacy rate more than 85 percent, and have a life expectancy of 76 years. “Saudade,” a feeling of nostalgia mixed with a melancholy acceptance of fate, is a concept often applied by the Portuguese to themselves. More than 600,000 residents of Portugal’s former overseas colonies returned to the motherland in the 1970s. Portuguese citizens of African descent make up the country’s only significant minority. Thousands of American residents live in Portugal, the vast majority of whom are returned Portugueseborn immigrants. Most Americans live in the Lisbon area, the Oporto district in the north, the Algarve province in the south, and in the Azores and Madeira. The British and the Dutch form other large expatriate communities in Portugal. Tourism is a major industry. More than 13 million people visit Portugal yearly. Spaniards make up the largest group of tourists, followed by the British and other northern Europeans. Over 200,000 Americans visit each year.

Moors. In the 15th and 16th centuries Portuguese navigators led the way in overseas exploration, establishing an empire in Latin America, Africa, and Asia. The Portuguese monarchy lasted until 1910, when it was overthrown and Portugal was proclaimed a republic. Sixteen years later a military coup led to the dictatorship of Dr. Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, a law professor who served as Finance Minister and later Prime Minister. Marcello Caetano followed Dr. Salazar as Prime Minister from 1968 to 1974. On April 25, 1974, the Armed Forces Movement, formed by young military officers, overthrew the Caetano regime. Although the period that followed was marked by considerable instability, free elections were held for a Constituent Assembly in April 1975, and for the Legislative Assembly in April 1976. A new constitution was adopted in April 1976, and revised in 1982 and 1989, which defines Portugal as “a Democratic State based on the rule of law.” The constitution provides strong safeguards for individual civil liberties. It also establishes the four main branches of the national government: the Presidency; the Prime Minister and the Council of Ministers; the Assembly of the Republic; and the courts.

English and French are the most widely spoken foreign languages. Although Spanish and Portuguese are quite similar in structure and vocabulary, they differ significantly in pronunciation. While the Portuguese are very gracious when foreigners attempt to speak Portuguese, they are often offended when non-Spaniards speak Spanish with them. It is prudent for Americans to speak English with the Portuguese when they are unable to converse in Portuguese.

The most recent presidential elections held in January 2001, at which time Jorge Fernando de Sampaio, a member of the Socialist Party, was reelected. The most recent general election, in March 2002, provided the Social Democratic Party (PSP) with a majority in the Assembly; the Social Democrats have held such a majority since 1987. José Manuel Durão Baroso of the PSP became Prime Minister in 2002.

Public Institutions

Internally, Portugal is divided into 18 districts and two autonomous regions. Municipalities within each hold elections for the selection of local officials.

Portugal is one of Europe’s oldest independent nations, tracing its history to the 12th century when it became a kingdom following victories over the Leonese and the

Internationally, Portugal is a member of the United Nations, the Coun-

cil of Europe, the North Atlantic Treaty Organization, the Western European Security Union, the Conference on Security and Cooperation in Europe, and several international development organizations. In January 1986, Portugal was granted admission to the European Community (the Common Market). Portugal held the EC’s rotating Presidency for the first time during the initial half of 1992.

Arts, Science, and Education Portugal’s culture reflects its rich historical heritage—a blend of Western European, Mediterranean, and North African values. Portuguese art has found expression in architecture, especially during the Manueline period (the 1495–1521 A.D. reign of King Manuel), and in epic and lyric poetry. By law, all Portuguese children must attend 9 years of primary school. The number of public schools is increasing to meet demands in rural areas and demands for secondary and higher education. Students who qualify academically and financially may seek admission to state or private secondary and vocational schools. Diplomas from such schools are necessary for admission to one of the many state-run universities or technical institutes.

Commerce and Industry Portugal’s accession into the European Economic Community (EC) in 1986 coincided with renewed economic activity and growth, characterized in part by increased international investment in Portugal. Money from the EC is rapidly modernizing Portugal’s outdated infrastructure but making the fight against inflation even more difficult. The Portuguese agricultural sector employs 10 percent of the work force but produces only about 4 percent of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP). 467

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Thousands of vineyards produce Por tugal’s world-famous Por t, Madeira and other wines. Other important crops include grains, tomatoes, potatoes, olives, citrus fruits, figs, and almonds. Forests cover an additional 35 percent of the country’s land area and include extensive ranges of cork oak, maritime pine, and eucalyptus. Fishing fleets that once engaged in deep-water fishing now consist largely of small craft which harvest anchovies, sardines, and tuna along Portugal’s 500-mile Atlantic coast. Much of the catch is canned for export. Industry and commerce employ approximately 30 percent of the work force and account for about 36 percent of the GDP. Major industrial sectors include textiles, footwear, leather goods, wood and pulp, paper, metal working, mining, chemicals, and automobile assembly. About 60 percent of Portugal’s work force are employed in the government and service sectors.

Transportation Local The Lisbon area offers public transportation services. Buses connect all parts of the city and its suburbs with frequent, regularly scheduled service. Fares are on a zone basis. One U-shaped subway line operates within the city itself, connecting the downtown area with eastern areas of the city. Passes which are valid on both the buses and the subway may be purchased. Both buses and subway trains are crowded during rush hours, from 7:30 am to 9:30 am and from 4:30 pm to 7:00 pm. Taxis are plentiful in the Lisbon area, and many are radio dispatched. Taxis operate on meters. Drivers are uniformly courteous and honest. Commuter train service is available from downtown Lisbon along the coast to the western suburbs and

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Cascais. A trip from downtown to Cascais takes approximately 35 minutes. A commuter train also runs from Lisbon to Sintra. Ponta Delgada has inexpensive bus service available to most towns on the island of Sao Miguel, although buses do not run frequently. Taxis are readily available and are not expensive. Some taxi drivers speak English and are willing to hire their taxis for half-day and full-day trips. Driving in Portugal is dangerous. Roads are congested, speeds high, and many drivers careless. In particular, the coast road from Lisbon to Cascais is considered the most dangerous stretch of highway in Europe based on accident reports. One must always drive defensively while behind the wheel in Portugal.

Regional Many international airlines serve Lisbon, connecting Portugal via daily flights to most of Western Europe, North and South America, and less frequently with Africa and Asia. Delta Airlines initiated service between New York and Lisbon in 1992. Direct railroad connections exist between Lisbon and Madrid in Spain, where it is possible to connect with trains to the rest of Europe. Road systems connect Portugal with Spain and the rest of Europe. Lisbon is also a major port, with maritime traffic arriving from and departing to ports throughout the world. International airlines also connect Oporto, the Azores, and Madeira with foreign countries. Domestic airline service is available between Lisbon and Oporto, the Algarve, the Azores and Madeira. Flight delays may be encountered during the rainy season. Regular train service connects Lisbon with Oporto in the north, and with the Algarve in the south. Autotrain services are available to Oporto at an additional cost. Train service to the eastern part of Portugal is available on the Lisbon-

Madrid line, which also offers autotrain services. Other locations throughout the country are serviced by local trains which are less comfortable than those serving the main lines. Portugal’s highway system ranges f r o m e x c e l l e n t t o p o o r. M a j o r ex pr essways are found in and around Lisbon, stretching both north to Oporto and south to Setubal. Short stretches of expressway are found in and near several other urban centers. Most parts of the country are connected by two-lane paved highways which are passable in all weather. Many roads are narrow and winding and are heavily travelled by automobiles, trucks, and buses. Road maintenance, particularly in the northeastern and eastern parts of the country, may be spotty at times. Drivers are urged to develop and employ good defensive driving habits wherever they may be driving in Portugal. Both American and Portuguese car rental agencies operate throughout the country. Rental prices are comparable to the rest of Europe, but may seem expensive compared to rentals in the United States.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone and telegraphic circuits are available to Europe and almost all points of the world. Calls to most places can now be dialed direct. USA direct services are offered by AT&T and US Sprint. Direct dial telephone service is available to most parts of the world from Ponta Delgada, although it is not available from some of the smaller islands.

Radio and TV Lisbon: Shortwave radio reception is fair to good depending on location and set. U.S. radios can be used with a t r a n s f o r m e r. B B C a n d VO A English, as well as several other European shortwave broadcasts, can be heard in Lisbon. Local AM and FM stations offer a full range of

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Cities of the World American and Portuguese music as well as extensive newscasts in Portuguese. An AFRTS station with English-language news, sports and music broadcasts in FM from the NATO facility (IBERLANT) located outside of Lisbon. Reception varies significantly from different locations in and near Lisbon. Another FM station, “Radio Paris-Lisbonne” offers music and news in French. Portuguese National Television (RTP) has channels that regularly feature American shows and movies in English with Portuguese subtitles. Portuguese TV uses the PAL 625 system. American color TV sets cannot be used for local viewing, although they can be used with A m e r i c a n V C R ’s t o wa t ch t h e NTSC-system videos that are available for rent. Multi-system TV’s and VCR’s are available. Quality European-standard electronic equipment is available locally, but at considerably higher prices than the equivalent in the U.S. Small satellite dishes can receive European stations like Sky News, TVE, TV5, RTL and Eurosport. CNN international is also available. There is no commercial cable TV service, but many larger apartment buildings have satellite dishes that feed channels to each apartment.

Ponta Delgada: RTP Azores operates in Sao Miguel. About 50 percent of the programs are in Portuguese, and the rest are in English, Spanish, German, and French, all with Portuguese subtitles. The American station (AFRTS) at Lajes does not produce a signal strong enough for reception in Sao Miguel. Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Lisbon: The International Herald Tribune is available within one day of publication at many newsstands, which also carry American and British news magazines and newspapers at prices higher than domestic rates. A small English weekly, The Anglo-Portuguese News, is aimed primarily at the large British com-

munity in Portugal. Eight Portuguese dailies and five major weeklies carry domestic and international news. The USIS library, located downtown, carries a wide selection of American books and magazines. Several local bookstores stock books in English, but at higher prices than in the U.S.

clinics provide adequate care and can handle acute medical emergencies. Emergency room and intensive care services are available. Problems may exist in obtaining some medications from local pharmacies, and eyeglasses are not readily available.

Ponta Delgada: T h e C o n s u l a t e

Portugal is generally considered to have a healthy environment with minor health risks for those assigned here. Despite brief bouts of upset stomach and diarrhea until one adapts to the new food, no major health problems present themselves. However, certain precautions are suggested.

Community Health receives various periodicals. The I n t e r n a t i o n a l H e r a l d Tr i b u n e arrives 5–15 days late. Lajes AFB carries a selection of magazines and newspapers in the base exchange. Three Portuguese dailies and two weekly newspapers are published in Ponta Delgada, but coverage of international news is limited.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Lisbon: The quality of physicians is good. Government hospitals and clinics, however, are sometimes underequipped, outdated, and poorly managed. Overcrowding can be a problem. Charges for medical services vary widely but are comparable to what one would pay in the United States. Nursing care, with the exception of acute care areas, is below that found in American hospitals. In spite of these problems, some private Portuguese hospitals are satisfactory for medical and surgical procedures. Emergency room services have been used with satisfactory results, as have obstetrical care services. Dental care is satisfactory. There are a number of excellent dentists who have been used with good results (including periodontics, orthodontics, and pediatric dentistry).

Ponta Delgada: Po n t a D e l g a d a offers good medical care and facilities. English-speaking physicians include such specialists as pediatricians, obstetricians and gynecologists. A local hospital and two

Damp chilly weather is common throughout Portugal during the winter months. This aggravates rheumatism, sinusitis, and bronchial and other respiratory conditions. Common colds and various strains of the flu are frequent. Other commonly encountered diseases include hepatitis A, dysentery, measles, mumps, chicken pox, and whooping cough. Tuberculosis is also more common than in most European countries.

Preventive Measures While not required, the following immunizations are recommended: gamma globulin, tetanus, diphtheria, pertussis, typhoid, oral polio, and hepatitis B. Some medications are available locally. However, it is recommended that those on prescription medications bring a good supply with them and that arrangements be made for the refill of prescriptions by mail from the United States if they are not available through local pharmacies. Although water supplied to Lisbon and the rest of Portugal is adequately treated, the distribution system is old in parts and in varying states of repair. Following any disruption of water service in the Lisbon area, and at all times outside the Lisbon metropolitan area, tap water should not be considered safe 469

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to drink unless it is first boiled for five minutes. Good bottled water, both carbonated and uncarbonated, is readily available at reasonable prices throughout the country.

No limitations are placed on dollars or travelers checks brought to Portugal; however, declaration at the point of entry is necessary to reexport foreign currency.

Local meats, fish, fruits, and vegetables are safe for consumption. While meat and fish markets do not come under strict sanitary controls, nearly all stores have refrigeration equipment for meats, fish, and dairy products. Shellfish can be a source of hepatitis A, especially during the dry months. Caution is advised. Milk, butter, and cheese are generally safe and of excellent quality. Pasteurization of dairy products is now common, with the exception of what is called “fresh cheese” that is similar to “farmers cheese”. Unpasteurized dairy products should be avoided as they may cause bovine tuberculosis.

The monetary unit is the euro. Banks, hotels, and shops accept travelers checks. All major credit cards, U.S. and European, are widely accepted on the Portuguese economy. Portugal uses the metric system of weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Feb/Mar.. . . . . . . . .Carnival* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Apr 25 . . . . . . . . . .Freedom Day

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .May Day May/June . . . . . . . .Corpus Christi Day* June 10 . . . . . . . . .Portugal Day

Request a visa from the appropriate issuing authority. Some Portuguese embassies will issue a visa, others (including the Embassy in Washington) may indicate it is not necessary. If you do not have a visa, you will have a 90-day visitor’s permit stamped in your passport on arrival.

Aug. 15. . . . . . . . . .Assumption Day Oct. 5 . . . . . . . . . . .Proclamation of the Portuguese Republic

Antunes, Jose Freire. Kennedy e Salazar. Lisbon 1991. Difus·o Cultural. Antunes, Jose Freire. Nixon e Caetano, Promessas e Abandono. Lisbon, 1992. Antunes, Jose Freire. Os Americanos e Portugal, Vol. 1, Os Anos de Richard Nixon 1969 - 1974. Pubs. Dom Ouixote: Lisbon, 1979 Binnendijk, Hans, editor. Authoritarian Regimes in Transition, Chapter Four, “Democracy Comes to the Iberian Peninsula.” U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington, 1987. Ferreira, Hugo G., and Michael W. Marshall. Portugal’s Revolution: Ten Years On. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1986. Frommer’s Portugal, Madeira, & the Azores. New York: Prentice Hall, 1990. Graham, Lawrence S., and Douglas L. Wheeler, eds. In Search of Modern Portugal: The Revolution and Its Consequences. Madison, WI: University of Wisconsin Press, 1983.

Dec. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Restoration of Portuguese Independence

Kayman, Martin. Revolution and Counter-Revolution in Portugal. Wolfboro, NH: Longwood Publishing Group, 1987.

Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . .Immaculate Conception

Kubiak, T. Portugal. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1989.

Pets are not subject to quarantine. Dogs must have vaccination certificates against rabies, and both dogs and cats need a certificate of good health. All certificates must be visaed by a Portuguese consular official before the pet arrives in Portugal.

Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day

Marques, Antonio Henrique. History of Portugal. Palas: Lisbon, 1974.

RECOMMENDED READING

Maxwell, Kenneth. (ed.). Portuguese Defense and Foreign Policy since Democratization. New York: Camoes Center, Columbia University, 1991.

Pets will be inspected by a veterinarian on arrival. In addition, the owner will have to pay clearances, customs broker fees, and other minor charges.

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

Maxwell, Kenneth & Haltzel, Michael (eds.). Portugal: Ancient Country, Young Democracy. The Wilson Center Press. Washington, D.C., 1990.

No vaccinations are required for entry into Portugal.

470

June 13 . . . . . . . . .St. Anthony's Day

American University. Area Handbook for Portugal. U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington, 1977.

Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .All Saints' Day

*variable

Portugal

Cities of the World Opello, Walter C. Portugal: From Monarchy to Pluralist Democracy. B o u l d e r : We s t n o w P r e s s , 1991.dos Passos, John. The Portugal Story: Three Centuries of Exploration and Discovery. Doubleday: New York, 1969.

Rodriguez, Avelino: Borge, Cesario; Cardosa, Mario. Abril Nos Quarteis de Novembro. Libraria Bertrand: Lisbon, 1979. Szulc, Tad. “Behind Portugal’s Revolution,” Foreign Policy, No. 21, Winter 1975–76.

Many excellent travel books on Portugal are available in bookstores in the United States. Publications are also available from the Portuguese National Tourist Office both in the United States and in Portugal.

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Bucharest, Romania

ROMANIA Republic of Romania

Major Cities: Bucharest, Braöov, Constan÷a, Timiöoara Other Cities: Arad, Bacàu, Baia Mare, Bràila, Buzàu, Cluj-napoca, Craiova, Gala÷i, Giurgiu, Hunedoara, Iaöi, Oradea, Piatra-neam÷, Piteöti, Ploieöti, Reöi÷a, Sibiu, Tîrgu-mureö

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated February 1992. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Although surrounded by Slav and Magyar neighbors, the Republic of ROMANIA is mainly a Latin country which traces its origins to the Roman Empire. It has been a unitary state for less than a century, and its culture and historical traditions are a source of pride and national sentiment. Romania’s high proportion of ethnic minorities and its rich and varied cultural life lend it a special appeal for folklorists and students of the fine arts.

MAJOR CITIES Bucharest Bucharest (in Romanian, Bucureöti), Romania’s largest city

and its political, economic, and administrative center, has a population of over two million, including the immediate suburbs. It is situated on a wide agricultural plain in the southeastern part of the country, 40 miles north of the Danube and 156 miles west of the Black Sea. Bucharest, probably founded late in the 14th century, was known then as Cetatea Dambovitei. It grew as a military fortress and commercial center along the trade routes to Constantinople. Known under its present name since the 15th century, it became the capital of Romania in 1861. During World War I, Bucharest was occupied from 1916 to 1918 by the Central Powers, the alliance formed by Germany, Austria-Hungary, Bulgaria, and the Ottoman Empire. In World War II, following Romania’s surrender to the Allies in August 1944, German planes bombed the city extensively. When Soviet troops entered on August 31, 1944, a coalition of leftist parties had already seized power. The city lies on the Dîmbo-vi÷a River, at an altitude of 265 feet, and enjoys a temperate climate. The skyline is low except for the 22-story Intercontinental Hotel. Many attractive parks and drives add an element of beauty to the city. A large part of Bucharest’s architecture dates to the pre-World War II era and consists of baroque and Renais-

sance-style structures. Many of these are former homes of the old aristocracy taken over as offices for state enterprises or by foreign diplomatic missions. Construction in recent years was limited to apartment buildings, the Metro, and civic buildings. Now the focus is on restoration work. French is the second most common language spoken in Bucharest, but some knowledge of English is common among educated persons under 35 years of age. Knowledge of Romanian is an important asset. Traffic in Bucharest, moderate by Western standards, is always hectic due to the increasing number of vehicles on the road, newly found f r e e d o m t o d r i v e, a n d n a r r o w streets. City dwellers enjoy walking, and pedestrian traffic is always heavy, particularly from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays. Parks and recreation facilities are crowded on weekends. Romanians usually take to the highways on weekends, beginning around noon on Saturday.

Clothing Dress in Romania is simple and informal. Wardrobes should resemble those needed in Washington, DC. Local ready-made clothing and shoes, including children’s, differ from U.S. quality and fit and are 473

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more expensive. Clothing can be made here by a tailoring or dressmaking cooperative or, occasionally, by a seamstress. This is not always satisfactory because of the time, workmanship, and expense involved. For tailor-made clothing, the purchaser should furnish sewing notions. Materials of good quality can be bought locally, but are expensive. Shoes can be repaired satisfactorily in Romania. Wardrobes for an extended stay should include rubber boots, children’s clothes and shoes, winter clothing, including sportsand footwear (e.g., ski clothes and ice skates), and summer sportswear (for tennis and swimming).

employees to pay additional taxes: 25% social security and 4% unemployment tax. Housecleaning help is not hard to find. Reliable baby-sitters and good cooks are more difficult to locate. English-speaking help is hard to find.

Religious Activities The Romanian Orthodox Church is dominant in Romania, but there are also Lutheran, Catholic, Baptist, Calvinist, and Unitarian churches; several synagogues; and two mosques in Bucharest. The British community sponsors an Anglican church, with services in English.

Education Food Meat and fish on the local market generally are of poor quality and are scarce. Fresh vegetables and fruits are usually available in season at local open-air markets. Milk and milk products are not pasteurized.

Supplies & Services In general, basic services and supplies are expensive and either unavailable or only irregularly found. In many cases, such as in auto, radio, and stereo repair, the lack of spare parts hinders service. Repairs for locally purchased TV sets are obtainable. Barbershops for men are readily available and are satisfactory. Several beauty shops are fairly good, including those at the Intercontinental and Lido Hotels in Bucharest.

Domestic Help Many Americans living in Romania have household help. The number depends on family size. Single people and couples without children usually have only part-time help, or one full-time person who does the housecleaning and some cooking. Families, especially those with small children, often have two domestics. Romanian domestics do not live in. Minimum monthly salaries for fulltime help is about $100 a month. Romanian labor law requires 474

The American School of Bucharest, sponsored by the U.S. Department of State, has a pre-kindergarten and grades kindergarten through eight. The American School, incorporated in the State of Delaware, is financed primarily by tuition fees and a grant from the Department of State. It is fully accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools. Its curriculum and materials parallel those currently used in the U.S. and, because of its international character, the educational experience is broadening. Current placement policy according to chronological age requires a birthdate on or before November 30. For example, a child entering the preschool class must be four-years old by November 30. American children above the eighth grade normally attend school outside of Romania. Several schools in the area have boarding facilities.

Recreation Romania has many natural and historical points of interest and beauty. Travel restrictions do not exist in Romania. Signs designate certain areas as “off limits” for photography but, in general, unlimited and irresistible photo opportunities abound. Among the many interesting places to visit in Romania are the Black Sea

coast, the Danube delta, the Moldavian monasteries, Maramureö and its wooden churches, the scenic Retezat Mountains in western Romania, and the medieval cities of Sibiu and Sighiöoara. A few locations in southern Romania, from the west t o t h e B l a c k S e a c o a s t ( e. g. , Sarmizegetusa, Adamclisi, and Histria), have ruins from Greco-Roman times. Camping enthusiasts find many sites, either in commercial cabins or by pitching tents, in attractive surroundings. Mountain climbing possibilities abound, and fishing for trout in the mountains or for a variety of game fish in the delta can be arranged. Hunting can be productive, but expensive. Bucharest and vicinity have a few tourist spots. Just outside the city limits is a small zoo. North on the road to Ploieöti are Lake Snagov and the Caldarusani Monastery (where Vlad Tepeö—the historical prince tenuously identified as Count Dracula—was reportedly buried). To the northwest is the town of Tîrgoviöte. To the west, about two-and-a-half hours by car, are the beautiful monastery of Curtea de Argeö and the scenic Vidraru Lake north of Capatineni. Near the lake, there is an old fortress once belonging to Vlad Tepeö and, on a clear day, the peaks of the Fàgàraö Mountains, the highest in Romania, can be seen in the distance. All of these spots provide good picnic areas. Some interesting museums, with fine art and history collections, and a botanical garden are in Bucharest. Also, tours to arts and crafts mills occasionally can be arranged. There are several nice parks for strolling (pa rti cul arly Her àstr àu Pa rk , beyond the massive triumphal arch), but they are crowded on weekends. Numerous specta tor s port s i n Bucharest are available to foreigners; the most popular is soccer. Other sports are volleyball, handball, basketball, boxing, tennis, and ice hockey. Tickets are reasonable. A number of international matches are played in Bucharest each year between Romanian and foreign

Romania

Cities of the World teams. American teams have made a few visits. Professional tennis lessons can be arranged for visitors at the Club Tineretului or the Bucharest Tennis Club, and admittance to the former for swimming also can be arranged. In winter, one can ice skate at the Floreasca rink and ski in the mountains near Sinaia and Predeal.

Entertainment Local entertainment possibilities for English-speaking visitors are limited. Many inexpensive cinemas exist, but the films shown are either poor or are in a foreign language. Few American films are shown. Some good operas and ballets are seen each season, and many fine concerts and recitals are given. For those skilled in the Romanian language, the live stage is enjoyable. Good restaurants were scarce, but new restaurants are opening and old ones seem to be improving. Selection is limited, and service is often slow. Nightclub entertainment is also improving, but still limited. Discotheques are opening all over town and are usually open from 10 p.m. to 5 a.m. Folk festivals with the various regional dances and colorful costumes can be enjoyed in the countryside. Bucharest holds a growing number of international fairs. The American Library and Cultural Center provides some good reading material. The cultural attractions produced in the center’s theater are worth attending.

Braöov Braöov (sometimes Brashov), located in central Romania 75 miles north of Bucharest, has a population of approximately 314,000. Situated at the foot of the Transylvanian Alps, the city was founded early in the 13th century by the Teutonic Order of Knights. Braöov was a major trade and industrial center in the Middle Ages, enjoying considerable autonomy under the Hapsburg empire. It

Street scene in Braöov

was part of Hungary until after World War I; consequently, there are large numbers of Hungarians and Germans in the city. There are several interesting ecclesiastical buildings in Braöov, including the large 14th-century Black Church, so called because of extensive fire damage in 1689; St. Bartholomew Church (13th century); and St. Nicholas Church (14th century, rebuilt in 1751). The medieval town hall (built in 1420, and restored in 1777) and the 17th-century citadel still stand. Today, Braöov is a road and rail junction, as well as a major industrial center. The city’s chief products are tractors, trucks, machinery, chemicals, and textiles. Braöov was called Stalin, or Oraöul-Stalin, from 1950 to 1960. The Carpathian resort and winter sports center of Poiana Braöov is close by.

Constan÷a Romania’s chief seaport is Constan÷a, situated in the southeastern part of the country on the Black Sea. Located about 120 miles east of B u ch ar e s t , C o n s t an ÷ a ’s ma j o r exports are petroleum (brought by pipeline from the oil fields near

© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

Ploieöti), grain, and lumber. Constan÷a also handles traffic involving Hungary, the Czech Republic and Slovakia, serves as the country’s major naval and air base, and is a seaside resort. Romania acquired the city in 1878 after a varied history. Founded as the Greek colony of Tomi in the seventh century B.C., it later came under Roman and Turkish rule. Ovid, the greatest Roman poet of his time (43 B.C.–A.D.17), spent his final years in exile at Tomi, then a lonely fishing village. Constan÷a has several synagogues and mosques, an Orthodox cathedral, a statue of Ovid, and many Roman and Byzantine ruins. Also interesting are a regional archaeological museum and a marine biology station. The population is 342,000.

Timiöoara Timiöoara, situated on the Beja Canal in western Romania, has a population of 324,000. About 235 miles northwest of Bucharest, Timiöoara is a railroad hub and an industrial center. There are plants here that process food and tobacco, and factories that manufacture textiles, machinery, and chemicals. 475

Romania Timiöoara also has a university, founded in 1945, and other institutions of higher education. Timiöoara was an ancient Roman settlement, came under Magyar rule in 896, and was annexed to Hungary in 1010. An important frontier fortress, the city was held by the Turks from 1552 to 1716. It was f o r m all y re st o re d t o Au s tria-Hungary with the Treaty of Passarowitz in 1718, and passed to Romania via the Treaty of Tianon in 1920. The inner city is now surrounded by boulevards, replacing the old ramparts. Several buildings date from the 18th century, including Roman Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals and the city hall. There is also a regional museum, housed in a 14th-century castle. Thermal springs in use since Roman times are still operated as spa facilities in Timiöoara.

OTHER CITIES ARAD is located in western Romania near the Hungarian border, 260 miles northwest of Bucharest. Situated on the Mureöul River, Arad is a leading regional commercial and industrial center, as well as an important railroad junction. Chief industries include distilleries, sawmills, and the manufacture of textiles, machine tools, locomotives, electrical goods, and leather products. Arad was under Turkish rule for more than a century (16th to 17th centuries), under Austrian domination for more than 150 years (1685 to 1849), and controlled by the Hungarians, who made it their headquarters against the Hapsburg empire from 1849 to 1920. In 1920, after World War I, Arad became part of Romania. The city has a theological seminary and a teachers’ training school. Cultural institutions include a state theater, a philharmonic orchestra, and a museum. There also is an 18th-century citadel built by Empress Maria Theresa. Arad’s population is about 184,000. 476

Cities of the World BACÀU is the capital and principal city of the district of the same name. It lies on the Bistri÷a River, 150 miles northeast of Bucharest, and has a population of 209,000. Fighter plane manufacture is the main industry; others include footwear, textile, and paper production. Because of its location near the confluence of two major rivers, Bacàu has long been an important trade center. Originally a customs post, it was noted in documents as early as 1408. Today this city is a major road and railway junction. As a cultural hub, Bacàu has a state theater, symphony orchestra, and museums. BAIA MARE (in Hungarian, Nagybánya) is situated in the far northwest, 250 miles from Bucharest. Surrounded by mountains, it is shielded from northeast winds, and has a Mediterranean-like vegetation. Heavy industries, such as lead and zinc smelting plants, predominate here. Baia Mare’s 14th-century clock tower, known as Stephen’s Tower, overshadows the medieval quarter. Saxon immigrants founded the city in the 12th century, and called it Neustadt. Baia Mare has an estimated population of 150,000. BRÀILA is in southeastern Romania near the Ukraine border, about 100 miles northeast of Bucharest. Situated on the lower Danube River, Bràila has an estimated population of 234,000. The city is Romania’s chief grain-shipping port and also a major industrial and commercial center whose principal products are machinery, metals, foodstuffs, and textiles. Bràila’s history dates to Greek times. In the 15th century, the city was burned by the Turks and again by forces of Stephen the Great of Moldavia. Bràila played an important role in the Russo-Turkish Wars of the 18th century. Today, Bràila has many landmarks, including the Cathedral of St. Michael, a theater, and an art museum. BUZÀU is a market and trading center located about 60 miles northeast of Bucharest. It dates to the early 15th century, and is surrounded by a fertile agricultural region. Industries in Buzàu include

those producing alcohol, textiles, and plastics. Approximately 148,000 people live in the city. CLUJ-NAPOCA is located in central Romania, about 200 miles northwest of Bucharest. Situated on the Someöul Mic River in the hills of Transylvania, it is the capital of Cluj Province, and has a population of roughly 332,000. The administrative center of an area rich in agriculture and minerals, Cluj-Napoca manufactures machinery, metal products, electrical equipment, textiles, chemicals, and shoes. It also is a noted center of education, with two universities, a branch of the Romanian Academy of Sciences, a fine arts institute, a polytechnic institute, and several scientific research centers. Founded in the 12th century by German colonists, the city became an important cultural and commercial center in the Middle Ages. A Jesuit academy was founded here in 1581; Cluj-Napoca then became the chief cultural and religious center of Transylvania. Incorporated into Austria-Hungary in 1867 and transferred to Romania in 1920, it was occupied by Hungarian forces during World War II. Historical sites in the city include the 14th-century Gothic Church of St. Michael and the ruins of an 11th-century church. Cluj-Napoca also has beautiful botanical gardens. CRAIOVA lies on the Jiul River, a tributary of the Danube in southwest Romania. Approximately 110 miles west of Bucharest, Craiova is the administrative and industrial center of an agricultural and mineral region, and also an important market for grain. Chief industries include food processing, machine building, and electrical equipment manufacturing. It is a city of about 314,000 residents. Built on the site of a Roman settlement, Craiova was destroyed by an earthquake in 1790 and burned by the Turks in 1802. Culturally, the city is the site of a university (founded in 1966) and other institutions of higher learning, a philharmonic orchestra, and several museums displaying prehistoric and Roman relics. Also of

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1860; there are also several other institutions of higher learning. Three churches—a 17th-century cathedral, the Church of the Three Hierarchs, and the Church of St. Nicholas—are all examples of the Moldavian adaptation of Byzantine architecture.

Opera house and fountain in Timisoara

interest are St. Demetrius Church (built in the 17th century and later restored) and a 19th-century palace. GALA×I, also called Galatz, is in eastern Romania, about 115 miles northeast of Bucharest. With a population of about 330,000, Gala÷i is a major inland port and the home of the Romanian Danube flotilla. An important rail junction, Gala÷i also has large iron and steel plants and shipyards. Chief exports are grain and timber. Founded in the Middle Ages, Gala÷i became an international trading center in the 18th century, and a free port between 1834 and 1883. A cultural and educational center, Gala÷i has an agricultural college and a technical institute. GIURGIU, an important inland port, is situated on the Danube in southern Romania. Directly across the river is Ruse, Bulgaria, and the two are linked by a bridge. Oil pipelines from Ploieöti are connected to Giurgiu. The city also has shipyards and some light industry. Genoese merchants founded Giurgiu in the 10th century and named it San Giorgio. Conquered by the Turks in 1417, Giurgiu played an important role in 16th-century wars. Parts of the old town wall, ruins of a 14th-century medieval fortress, and

David Johnson. Reproduced by permission.

an old clock tower still stand. The population is about 55,000. HUNEDOARA is in west-central Romania, about 275 miles northwest of Bucharest. A major industrial center with iron- and steelworks, it also has iron ore and coal mines nearby. Historically, the city is noted for Hunyadi Castle, built in the 15th century on the site of a citadel. The population is currently about 80,000. IAÖI, or sometimes Jassy, is located in eastern Romania, in the region called Moldavia. Near the Moldova border and 200 miles northeast of Bucharest, Iaöis a population of approximately 348,000. The city is the commercial center for a fertile agricultural region where machinery, textiles, furniture, pharmaceuticals, food products, plastics, and metal are produced. Iaöi was the capital of the Romanian principality of Moldavia from 1565 until 1859. It served as Romania’s temporary capital during World War I. In the Second World War, Iaöi’s large Jewish population was exterminated by the Nazis. Iaöi has long been a cultural center; the first book in the Romanian language was printed here in 1643 and the national theater was founded in the city in 1849. A university was established in Iaöi in

ORADEA, sometimes called Oradea-Mare, is situated near the Hungarian border in western Romania. Approximately 270 miles northwest of Bucharest, Oradea has a population of around 222,000. It is the marketing and shipping center for a livestock and agricultural region, as well as an important industrial city. The seat of a Roman Catholic bishopric as early as 1080, Oradea was destroyed in the 13th century, but rebuilt in the 15th century. Held by the Turks from 1660 to 1692, Oradea became part of Romania after World War I. Hungarian forces occupied the city during World War II. Most of the architecture in Oradea is baroque. The city is popular with tourists for the health resorts which are found nearby. PIATRA-NEAM× is a northeastern district capital, situated 175 miles north of Bucharest on the Biastri÷a River. This cultural center of some 125,000 people has a regional natural science museum, state theater, and archaeological museum. Textiles, chemicals and canned foods number among its industries. St. Ion Church here is a classic example of the Moldavian architectural style. It was built by Stephen the Great of Moldavia in 1497–98. The Biastri÷a Monastery, erected in the early 15th century, is five miles west of Piatra-Neam÷. PITEÖTI, with a population of around 187,000, is located 70 miles northwest of Bucharest, in south-central Romania. Piteöti is a commercial center and an important rail junction, and has both heavy and light industry. The city is famous for its wines and for several resorts in the vicinity. PLOIEÖTI (or sometimes Ploeöti), the center of the Romanian petrol e u m i n d u s t r y, i s s i t u a t e d i n 477

Romania south-central Romania, just north of Bucharest. With a population of around 251,000, Ploieöti is a railroad hub linked by pipelines with Bucharest, and with the ports of Giurgiu on the Danube, and Constan÷a on the Black Sea. Reflecting its importance in the oil region of Romania, Ploieöti has large refineries and oil storage installations. Founded in 1596, it was the largest oil-producing center of southeast Europe by the 19th century. The city provided substantial oil to Germany during World War II and, consequently, was heavily bombed by Allied forces in August 1943. Ploieöti was occupied by the U.S.S.R. on August 31, 1944. After the war, Romania nationalized the oil industry here. REÖI×A (also spelled Reci÷a) is located in the western foothills of the Transylvanian Alps, approximately 200 miles west of Bucharest. A leading mining and industrial center, Reöi÷a produces iron, steel, machinery, metals, and chemicals. Coal and iron ore are mined nearby. Reöi÷a was known as a mining center for precious metals during Roman times. The modern city was established in 1768, when the first foundry was built. Currently the population is close to 94,000. SIBIU is situated at the foot of the Transylvanian Alps in central Romania. Located about 135 miles northwest of Bucharest, Sibiu has a mechanical engineering works and produces textiles, agricultural machinery, chemicals, and leather. It is also a market for farm products and cattle. Originally a Roman settlement, German colonists reestablished Sibiu in the 12th century, but the town was destroyed during the Tatar invasion in 1241. By the 14th century, Sibiu had recovered and was a leading administrative and commercial center for the German communities in Transylvania. Austrians controlled the city in the 17th century. Sibiu retains much of its medieval character and has a large German population, even though many Germans were forced to leave after World War II. Long recognized as the cultural center of Transylva478

Cities of the World nia, Sibiu has a philharmonic orchestra, a state theater, and a museum. The population here is about 170,000. TÎRGU-MUREÖ, a major industrial center, is in central Romania about 165 miles north of Bucharest. Situated on the Mureöul River, Tîrgu-Mureö has sugar refineries and distilleries, and manufactures food products, chemicals, fertilizers, machinery, and furniture. It is also a market for agricultural products. Tîrgu-Mureö dates from the 12th century, and remained a part of Hungary until 1918, when Romania acquired Transylvania; consequently, more than half of the city’s population is Hungarian. Its name in that language is Maros-Vásárhely. A fire destroyed most of the city in 1876, but a 17th-century citadel, several old churches, and some baroque mansions survived. The population is approximately 165,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Republic of Romania is the twelfth largest country in Europe. It occupies the greater part of the lower basin of the Danube River system and the hilly eastern regions of the middle Danube Basin. Its 91,700 square miles make it similar in size to the United Kingdom or Oregon. Some consider Romania to be a “Latin Island” because it is bordered by two seas, one real—the Black Sea to which Romania owes its 150 miles of coastline—and the other, the sea of non-Latin countries with which it shares its other borders. The Black Sea is to the east, Bulgaria is south, Serbia is west, Hungary northwest, and Moldova and Ukraine east and north. Romania has three major geographical areas. A fertile fluvial plain stretches in a crescent from the northeast to the southwest, bounded by the Danube and Prut

rivers. Bordering this plain to the west and north are the Carpathian Mountains and the Transylvanian Alps, a number of which reach above 7,000 feet. Most of the rest of the country is comprised of the hilly Transylvanian plateau. Finally, there is the Black Sea shore with its coastal plain, and the Danube delta. Because of Romania’s geographical and topographical diversity, the climate varies from region to region. It is generally continental, with short springs that quickly give way to long, warm summers, followed by pleasant, prolonged autumns and moderately cold, but comparatively short, winters. Snowfall in the Bucharest (capital) area usually is not heavy; however, the mountains have enough snow for skiing. The average daily minimum temperature for Bucharest in February is 28.6°F, and the average daily maximum in August is 95°F. Rainfall is normally heaviest from April through July, with an average of five inches in June. Aside from the relatively low humidity, Bucharest’s climate is much like that of Washington, DC.

Population Romanians consider themselves descendants of the ancient Dacians and their conquerors, the Romans. After the Roman occupation and colonization (between 106 and 271), the Goths, Huns, Slavs, Magyars, Turks, and other invaders each, in turn, left their mark on the population. Nevertheless, contemporary Romanians take particular pride in their Roman origins and Latin language and culture which, they believe, differentiates them from their Slavic and Hungarian neighbors. Today about 90% of the country’s estimated 23.4 million inhabitants are ethnically Romanian. Most of the remaining 10%, principally Hungarians and Germans live in Transylvania, which was, until 1918, part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Jews and Gypsies are spread throughout the country, predominantly in Moldavia. The Jew-

Romania

Cities of the World ish population was formerly larger, but emigration, primarily to Israel, has greatly reduced its numbers.

40 provinces and Bucharest. Mayors of cities, towns, and rural communes are elected.

As a result of the country’s ethnic diversity, Hungarian and German are important secondary languages, and various other tongues are spoken among the smaller minority groups. The Romanian language itself is related to Italian and Portuguese; the Cyrillic alphabet was replaced by the Latin in 1860. Religious affiliations tend to follow ethnic lines, with about 70% of all Romanian citizens belonging, at least nominally, to the Romanian Orthodox Church. Roman Catholics, mostly Hungarians, constitute about 3% of the population, and the 6% who are Protestant include Calvinists, Lutherans, Baptists, Pentecostals, Seventh-Day Adventists.

The bicameral parliament consists of a 119-member Senate and a 397member Chamber of Deputies. The national legislature is elected on a proportional representation, partylist system through a universal, secret ballot. The Chamber of Deputies also includes 12 appointed members to represent the national minorities who do not win an elective seat in Parliament.

Romanian law towards minorities is nondiscriminatory and the government allows them some cultural and linguistic freedom. The concept of Romania as a unitary national state, however, runs deep among ethnic Romanians and tension with minorities occasionally appears.

Government Romania ceased to be a Socialist Republic on December 22, 1989, when the communist dictatorship of Nicolae Ceausescu was overthrown. The government replacing the communist dictatorship, which had controlled Romania since the end of World War II, renamed the country Romania (it had previously been the Socialist Republic of Romania) and proclaimed its support for a multiparty democracy, a republican form of government, a tripartite separation of powers, a free market, and the observance of fundamental human rights. Movement toward these objectives in the years following the revolution was uneven, however, and the country continues to suffer from a difficult economic situation and experiences sharp political and social divisions. The central government appoints prefects who serve as the chief executive official in each of the country’s

Romania’s current chief of state is the president. The president is elected by universal, direct, and secret voting by all citizens over the age of 18; once elected, he must sever ties with any party or political organization. Decrees issued by the president, including ratifying treaties, promulgating laws, and declaring war and states of emergency, must be countersigned by the prime minister. The prime minister is currently appointed by the president, with the approval of both houses of Parliament. The president appoints as prime minister the representative of the political party receiving a majority of votes in the national parliamentary elections. The prime minister appoints and dismisses the members of his cabinet. Appointments are subject to approval by both houses of Parliament. The president appoints the members of the Supreme Court and the prosecutor general, with Senate approval. The Supreme Court is the highest court of appeal. The prosecutor general is the chief public prosecutor. The prosecutor general’s office is divided into civil and military jurisdictions and each of the country’s provinces has its own prosecutor, subject to the prosecutor general. Primary law enforcement rests in the hands of the national police force, which investigates common crimes, patrols populated areas, and controls traffic. Each province has its own police precinct, located in the provincial capital, which super-

vises the activities of police constables stationed in every sizeable town. There are eight precincts in Bucharest with a chief of police maintaining overall supervision. The national gendarmerie, under the control of the Ministry of Interior, is a uniformed paramilitary force that is deployed in situations beyond the control of local police, such as for riot control. The gendarmerie also provides security for diplomatic embassies and facilities as well as for economically significant industrial installations. The Ministry of Interior coordinates counternarcotics responsibilities involving several agencies, including local police and customs agents. Internal security and the protection of state secrets are the responsibilities of the Romanian Intelligence S e r v i c e ( S R I ) , w h i c h i n c l u de s among its personnel, uniformed troops. The SRI also is responsible for counterterrorism; an anti-terrorism brigade is assigned to each of Bucharest’s six sectors. The Romanian flag consists of three vertical bands in blue, yellow, and red. The emblem of the republic appears in the central yellow band.

Arts, Science, Education The impact of folklore and tradition has had a strong influence on the evolution of Romanian culture. Miori÷a (The Ewe Lamb), an ancient legend about the relationship between man and nature, is considered the masterpiece of Romanian literature. The richly embroidered cultural tradition of Romania has been nurtured by many factors, much of it predating the Roman occupation. Traditional folk arts, dance, woodcarving, weaving, and decoration of costumes as well as an enthralling body of folk music still flourish in many parts of the country. Modern Romanian literature was born in the mid-19th century and boasts such writers as Mihail Eminescu (1850–1889), Ion Creangà (1837–1889), Ion Luca Caragiale 479

Romania (1842–1912), and the poet Tudor Arghezi (1880–1967). Romania has over 21,000 public libraries. Every Romanian, on average, reads five books a year. Despite strong Austrian and German influence, the modern movement in painting and sculpture is rooted in the revolutionary period of 1830 to 1848, when the sons of wealthy Romanian boyars (aristocrats) traveled abroad to study in Western schools of art, particularly in Paris and Rome. Such painters as Theodor Aman (1831–1891) and Nicolae Grigorescu (1838–1907) found their themes and subjects in peasant life. Notable modern painters are Nicolae Tonitsa (1886-1940), Gheorghe Popescu (1903-1975), Ion Tucuescu (1910-1961), and Marin Gherasim (born 1937). Constantin Brâncuöi produced sculpture of first rank. Graphics, book illustration, and poster design are respected arts in Romania. Romanian artists, ancient and modern, are distinguished by their fondness for bold, bright colors. In music, Georges Enescu and Dinu Lipatti are well known. Bucharest has had opera since 1864; soprano E l e n a Te o d o r i n i ( 1 8 5 7 - 1 9 2 6 ) received wide public acclaim. Serious literature is widely read, and mid-city Bucharest is sprinkled with galleries exhibiting the work of both Romanian and foreign artists. Several concerts and recitals are held weekly in season, in addition to regular performances of the Romanian opera and ballet. Theater in Romania is extremely active, and a wide selection of plays from Romania, the U.S., and other countries is presented. Science and technology in Romania are closely connected with contemporary efforts to modernize the nation and create an industrial state. The most prestigious of the scientific societies established in the last century is the Romanian Acade m y, f o u n d e d i n 1 8 6 6 . To d a y, applied science and technology represent important areas of official emphasis, particularly in the educational and research institutions. 480

Cities of the World Research work in scientific fields is directed by the National Council for Science and Technology and the Academy of Social and Political Sciences. Education in Romania is state supported and state controlled. Elementary education and the first two levels of secondary school are compulsory for all students. Secondary schools, called licee, are available f o r s t u d e n t s w h o h av e p as s e d national examinations and are preparing for advanced study at universities. Competition for entrance into the universities and for postgraduate study is intense. Major university centers include those in B u ch a r e s t , C l u j -N a p o c a , I a ö i , Timiöoara, and Craiova. Half of the students receive state scholarships. The literacy rate in Romania is 97%.

Commerce and Industry Romania’s economy, which used to be centrally controlled, is currently being transformed toward a free market system. A large number of formerly state-owned enterprises have been turned into limited-liability or joint-stock companies, and thousands of privately-owned businesses, mostly small service-oriented operations, have appeared. In spite of this positive trend, the country still suffers from the crippling legacy of the communist regime, and faces enormous difficulties in the process of changing old economic structures and mentalities. Industrial production has decreased sharply, foreign trade has recorded unprecedented deficits, unemployment is rampant, and inflation is spiraling. It will probably take a massive influx of Western equipment and technology, which also means Western financing to facilitate Romania’s transition to a market economy. Representing considerable natural w e a l t h , R o m a n i a ’s r e s o u r c e s include petroleum, timber, natural gas, soft coal, iron, copper, waterpower, uranium ore, bauxite, and salt. The largest share in the coun-

try’s industrial structure is held by the chemical and petrochemical, iron-and-steel, and machine-building sectors. Textile, leather, and glassware manufacturing, as well as wood processing, are significant. Romania has a total of some 37.5 million acres of agricultural land, of which 25 million are arable. About 40% of the work force is involved in agriculture. Corn, wheat, barley, and sunflower are the most important crops. Romania also has extensive areas covered by orchards, vineyards, and truck farms. Animal husbandry (mostly cattle, sheep, swine, and poultry) has good potential for producing significant quantities of meat and dairy products. Modernization of agriculture and of food processing is top on the country’s priority list. Romania maintains economic and commercial relations with most other nations. Romania belongs to the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), the International Monetary Fund (IMF), and the World Bank. A growing number of foreign firms (including some 45 U.S. companies) have representative offices in Bucharest. There is a Chamber of Commerce in Romania at Boulevard Nicolae Bàlescu 22, Bucharest.

Transportation Bucharest’s Bàneasa Airport provides domestic air service on the state airline, TAROM (Transporturile Aeriene Romàne). Otopeni Airport, about 10 miles outside Bucharest, has foreign air service. Foreigners frequently use the inexpensive rail system for official and personal trips within Romania. Intercity buses exist, but are rarely used by foreigners. The national road system is generally good. Most roads are two-lane and asphalt-surfaced, but dirt roads also are common. A four-lane highway goes from the northern city limits of Bucharest to Ploieöti, and a limited access superhighway goes to Piteöti. Frequent encounters with

Romania

Cities of the World heavy truck traffic and horse-drawn carts or farm machinery can hinder progress on Romanian roads. Rest stops for fuel and food are virtually nonexistent. Buses and trolleys in Bucharest are plentiful and cheap, but often are crowded, and breakdowns are common. Reasonably priced taxis are difficult to obtain. Streets in Bucharest are hard-surfaced and of varyi n g q u a l i t y, w i t h b u m p y a n d cobblestone streets still common in many sectors. Streets become slippery when wet, particularly cobblestone routes. Left-hand-drive automobiles are used here. The lack of foreign car parts is a major inconvenience. Pa r t s f o r E u r o p e a n c a r s a r e obtained more quickly from abroad, but most American car parts must be imported from the U.S., which takes several weeks. The most conveniently serviced automobiles are those of European manufacture. Third-party liability insurance is mandatory. It must be bought locally and is relatively inexpensive. Gas stations are located in most regions and are labeled PECO. To be safe, drivers should fill up when the gas gauge falls below half, since chronic gas shortages do occur. Police cars are blue and white, are labeled “militia,” and have blue lights on top. Fire trucks are red. Many ambulances are not white and they do not always use their sirens. Some have a red cross painted on the door and may use only a flashing light.

Communications Romania has reasonably good, but slow, telephone service. The dial system is used. Long-distance domestic service is available, but 30-minute waits and bad connections are common. International calls often are faster and of better quality than domestic service. Calls from the U.S. to Romania cost approximately the same as calls made from Romania to the U.S.

International telegraph services are not always reliable. Delivery time for mail between the U.S. and Bucharest is approximately two weeks, except for parcels, which usually take three to five weeks. Both incoming and outgoing parcels require a customs declaration. Although Romanian radio carries music and news programs, it is not a common source of information and entertainment for visitors. Two local television channels, with some programming in French and English, make a TV set worthwhile. Romanian television carries international news, Western movies (many of them American of varying vintage), American reruns, international sports events, children’s cartoon shows, and international events by satellite. For those who are interested in and understand the Romanian language, local television is a good way to learn more about Romanian politics, economics, culture, and sports. Local publications are of interest to those with Romanian- language skills. International newspapers and magazines are seldom found, even in international-class hotels.

Health Generally, local medical care is below U.S. standards. The Romanian Government maintains a Diplomatic Polyclinic in Bucharest for medical examinations and treatment. Patients ordinarily receive good attention at the Polyclinic for routine ailments. Emergency dental problems are referred to Vienna or Athens. Local pharmacies usually do not stock Western medical and health supplies, but the Polyclinic sometimes stocks limited supplies. Weather and local sanitation can be a problem and aggravate health conditions. Garbage is picked up sporadically. Street sweeping and washing in Bucharest is sporadic, but sewage disposal is adequate. Winter weather is hard because streets are not cleaned of snow and

ice, and apartments and work sites are irregularly heated. In winter, soot from wood burning and soft coal aggravates some sinus problems and allergies; dust from the extensive construction in Bucharest will do the same for some people year round. Water should be boiled and filtered before use. The 1977 earthquake disrupted the aging plumbing system which caused the water quality to deteriorate, especially during the spring rains and winter freeze/thaw cycles. Bottled drinks are considered safe. AIDS and seropositive HIV have recently come to the forefront in Romania as a major public health problem, particularly in the pediatric population. Thus far, many of these cases seem to be attributed to the use of giving blood microtransfusions to young babies, and the reuse of contaminated syringes, particularly in the institutionalized child and/or the child with multiple hospitalizations. Research is continuing to try and help clarify this issue. The practice of microtransfusions in Romania has been banned, and disposable syringes are becoming more available, but the problem still exists. In additions, AIDS surveillance programs are being set up in Romania, as well as programs for blood donor screening for HIV and Hepatitis B.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties Bucharest is served by numerous foreign airlines which use Otopeni International Airport. Flights are scheduled daily from Frankfurt, and four to six flights a week arrive from Vienna, Paris, Rome, and London. TAROM, the Romanian airline, provides service between Bucharest and New York. International shipping arrives at the Black Sea ports of Constan÷a and Gala÷i. Rail connections are available from Western Europe via Budapest and Belgrade, 481

Romania as well as from Eastern European countries. Travel by car from Western Europe also is possible. A passport is required. Tourist visas for stays up to thirty days are not required. An exit visa must be obtained only in cases when the original passport used to enter the country was lost or stolen and a replacement passport has been issued by the American Embassy. For stays longer than thirty days, visas should be obtained from a Romanian embassy or consulate abroad. These should be extended at passport offices in Romania in the area of residence. Travelers can obtain visas and other information regarding entry requirements from the Romanian Embassy at 1607 23rd St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone number (202) 2324747, or the Romanian consulates in Los Angeles, Chicago, or New York City. The Romanian Embassy maintains a web site at http:// www.roembus.org. Romania's customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Romania of items such as firearms, antiquities, and medications. Romanian law allows foreigners to bring up to $10,000 in cash into Romania. No amount in excess of that declared upon entry may be taken out of Romania upon departure. Sums larger than $10,000 must be transferred t h r o u g h b a n k s. N o m o r e t h a n 1,000,000 Romanian lei (rol) may be brought into or taken out of the country. It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Romania in Washington or one of Romania's consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements. Americans living in or visiting Romania are encouraged to register with the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Romania and obtain updated information on travel and security within Romania. The U.S. Embassy is located at Strada Tudor Arghezi 7-9, telephone (40) 1-210-4042. In life or death emergencies, an after hours 482

Cities of the World duty officer may be reached by calling (40) 1-210-0149. Consular services for U.S. citizens are performed in the Consular Section located at Strada Filipescu no. 26 (formerly Strada Snagov), one block from the

ited use, but they may be used to exchange local currency at some exchange houses.

U.S. Embassy at the corner of Strada Batistei. The telephone number of the Consular Section is (40) 1-210-4042, and faxes can be sent to (40) 1 211-3360. An Embassy Information Office in Cluj-Napoca is located at Universitatii 7-9, Etaj 1, telephone (40) 64-193-815. This office is able to provide only limited consular information.

The time in Romania is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus one.

Pets No regulations restrict the importation of household pets (cats and dogs). Animals with proper documentation, such as health and rabies-vaccination certificates, are quickly cleared through customs. There is a significant population of stray dogs in and around Bucharest, and attacks on pedestrians and joggers are not uncommon. While there have not been any reported problems with rabies, travelers are advised to avoid all stray dogs.

Disaster Preparedness Romania is an earthquake-prone country. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Emergency Aanagement Agency (FEMA) at http:// www.fema.gov/.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The leu is the official unit of currency (the plural is lei). There are 100 bani in one leu. Romania is largely a “cash only” economy. While an increasing number of businesses do accept credit cards, travelers are advised to use cash for goods and services rendered due to an increase in credit card fraud. Venders have been known to misuse credit card information by making illegal purchases on individuals' accounts. There are an increasing numbe r of ATM machines located throughout major cities. Travelers' checks are of lim-

The metric system of weights and measures is in force.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Jan. 2 . . . . . . . . . . Day after New Year's Day Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter (Orthodox)* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Romanian Labor Day Dec. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Romanian National Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Behr, Edward. Kiss the Hand You Cannot Bite: The Rise and Fall of the Ceausescus. New York: Random House, 1991. Demekas, Dimitrios and Mohsin Khan. The Romanian Economic Reform Program. Washington, DC: International Monetary Fund, 1991. Fischer-Galati, Stephen. TwentiethCentury Romania, 2nd ed. New York: Columbia University Press, 1991. Haynes, Jim, ed. Romania: People to People. Somerville, MA: Zephyr Press, 1992. Jones, Harold D. Where to Go in Romania. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1991. Sitwell, Sacheverell. Romanian Journey. New York: Oxford University Press, 1992.

RUSSIA Russian Federation

Major Cities: Moscow, St. Petersburg, Nizhniy Novgorod, Novosibirsk Other Cities: Samara, Vladivostok, Volgograd, Yekaterinburg

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Russia. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Russia sprawls across nearly onesixth of the Earth's land mass (about 17 million square kilometers). It embraces a varied topography and has every type of climate except tropical. The Ural Mountains mark the traditional division between European and Asiatic Russia. To the west, Russian territory stretches over a broad plain, broken only by occasional low hills. To the east are the vast Siberian lowlands and the deserts of central Asia. Beyond are the barren Siberian highlands and the mountain ranges of the Russian Far East. Great pine forests cover half the country; south of these are the steppes (prairies), where the soil is rich and dark. A small subtropical

zone lies south of the steppes, along the shores of the Black and Caspian Seas.

ing Russia into a difficult transition toward a democratic state and market-based economy.

Climate is varied. Winters are long and cold and summers brief. In parts of the eastern Siberian tundra, temperatures of -68°C (-90°F) have been recorded.

The Russian Federation continues to seek to redefine its relationships with its new independent neighbors, as well as its role in the world.

The Russian Federation is a multiethnic state that comprises more than 100 ethnic groups. The majority of the population is Eastern Slavic, but it is made up of peoples belonging to less numerous ethnic g r o u p s, i n c l u d i n g E s k i m o s. Although most groups are distinguished by their own language and culture, Russian language and traditions are well established, with Russian the common language in government and education. Religion, long suppressed under the Soviet regime, now flourishes, and examples of all major and many less widely practiced religions can be found. Once an underdeveloped, peasant society, Russia made considerable economic progress under Communist rule, mainly by the force of a centralized command economy and basic industrialization. Soviet communism, already stagnant by the 1980s and ill-equipped to meet the demands of Mikhail Gorbachev's glasnost and perestroika, collapsed by 1991, forc-

MAJOR CITIES Moscow Moscow's official population is approximately 9 million. It is the center of government and plays an important role in the country's political, economical, cultural, scientific, and military activity. Moscow is first mentioned in history in 1 1 4 7 A . D. a s P r i n c e Yu r i y Dolgorukiy's hunting camp. Due to its strategic position on a northsouth trade route from Rostov to Ryazan, Moscow was the center of trade and government in what eventually became the Russian Empire. As the Russian Empire expanded, so grew Moscow's influence and importance, until the early 18th century when Peter the Great moved the nation's capital to St. Petersburg. As Russia's second city, Moscow retained its primacy only in trade, until the leaders of Soviet Russia transferred the capital back 483

Russia

Cities of the World available. The Russian circuses with their rich history are overwhelmingly popular with children and adults alike. On the negative side, life in Moscow can be difficult and stressful. Air pollution, severe winter conditions, language barriers, chaotic rush hour traffic, and long hours at work take their toll on even the most well-adjusted residents. Street crime is still a problem and African and Asian Americans have been victims of racially motivated attacks. Moscow is 3 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, and 8 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time.

St. Basil’s on Red Square in Moscow

to Moscow early in 1918. Subsequently, Moscow more than quadrupled in population and territory (878 square kilometers). In the past 20 years, the city's difficulties in housing and in supplying its large and growing population have led to calls for limits on growth and crackdowns on the huge “unregistered” population. After a decade-long lapse, the U.S. entered into diplomatic relations with the U.S.S.R. in 1933. In 1991, the U.S.S.R. was formally dissolved. The Russian Federation emerged as the largest of the new independent states of the former Soviet Union. Russia has diplomatic relations with most of the world's countries, and more than 100 of these maintain missions in Moscow. News correspondents, business representatives, and students from throughout the world live in the Russian capital. There is a heavy, year-round flow of foreign tourists and official delegations. Moscow's resident American community numbers about 5,000 (including dependen ts), consisting of Emba ssy personnel, business representat i v e s, c o r r e s p o n d e n t s, c l e r g y, exchange students, and professors. American tourists number about 100-200,000 annually. Moscow con484

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

tains many attractions of interest for visitors. Those open to the public include the Kremlin; monasteries and churches in and around Moscow, as well as museums, parks, permanent exhibition centers, and a variety of musical, dramatic, and dance attractions. Many small towns of interest lie within a day's drive of Moscow, including the old monastery town of Sergiyev Posad (formerly Zagorsk), Yasnaya Polyana, Tolstoy's home, and the Borodino battlefield, site of the greatest battle of Napoleon's 1812 invasion of Russia. M o s c o w o f f e r s a r i ch c u l t u r a l environment, and warrants the enormous local pride in its treasures and traditions. Myriad museums are devoted to the various arts, literature, music, politics, history, and sciences. Hundreds of small churches and large cathedrals throughout the city are open to visitors. In addition to the famous Bolshoi Theater, with its large repertoire of Russian and internationally famous opera and ballet, other theaters and concert halls feature popular and classical plays, concerts, recitals, and all of the performing arts. Children's theater, a puppet theater, a planetarium, and other performances geared especially to younger people are also

Utilities Electric clocks and other electrical items with motors designed for 60 cycles may not work correctly; 220v 50hz items can be purchased locally, if needed.

Food For the Western consumer, the availability of food and household products is improving. Most food and household products used by a typical American family can now be purchased. When American brands are not available locally, a European equivalent can usually be purchased. Vendors other than Russian stores and markets include Western outlets such as Stockmann. Some visitors do a lot of shopping at local “rynoks” These are open-air farmers' markets located in different parts of the city, typically near metro stations. Rynoks carry a large selection of fresh bread and seasonal as well as imported fresh produce. Meat is also available for purchase, but buying fresh, unrefrigerated meat is risky. Rynoks often have stalls that stock non-food items, such as cleaning products, soft drinks and liquor, health care products, pet food and paper goods at prices that are cheaper than in the other stores. In many instances the quality of the products tends to be lower. Larger rynoks also sell flowers, plants, clothing items, and

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Busy Nevsky Prospekt in St. Petersburg

leather goods. Be aware, however, that shopping in rynoks can pose challenges, including the need to maneuver through crowded spaces and language problems for non-Russian speakers. Bargaining is an accepted and common practice at rynoks but not at conventional stores and supermarkets, where prices are marked.

Clothing Temperatures during the year can range from -40° to +95 °F. Moscow winters can be very cold, especially if one is used to winter temperatures above freezing. It is necessary to be prepared for the harsh winter climate with plenty of warm clothing and outerwear. Men and women often wait until they arrive to buy a fur hat, and many women also purchase fur coats and boots locally. Other locally available winter gear may not meet American standards and/or style. Summers are short and often cool. Sweaters and a coat

are necessary no matter what time of year you arrive. The best type of clothing to have in Moscow is washable since clothing soils easily.Sturdy, waterproof clothing and footwear with good treads is essential. Sidewalks can be slick in winter and muddy and wet during the rest of the year. One should consider bringing enough clothing to last until replacements can be ordered through catalogs or while on leave outside of Russia. Slippers or clogs are useful around the house in winter and spring as mud, ice, salt, and dirt can be tracked in off the streets and playgrounds. Russians usually take off their shoes when entering a home (and children are expected to), so it is appropriate to have a couple of extra pairs of slippers for guests who do not feel comfortable coming into your home with their shoes on. Slippers can be purchased locally.

Sports equipment and sportswear should be brought to Moscow when possible. There are various recreational activities at hand, including swimming, soccer, baseball, volleyball, cycling, rollerblading, etc. Traditional Russian wooden children's sleds are available for purchase in the city, but may be hard to find. Western winter sports equipment can be found around town but the prices tend to be high. Cross-country skiing, ice-skating and sledding are all common winter sports. The outdoor tennis court at Rosinka is also turned into a skating rink during the winter. Men: Both heavy and light topcoats are desirable for spring and fall. Men wear down parkas and heavy topcoats appropriate for evening over their suits in the winter. Lined raincoats are not warm enough in the dead of winter although many people wear them in the spring and fall. 485

Russia Warm gloves, warm and waterproof boots, and a warm hat are all essential. Building interiors are often too hot by American standards in winter, but in fall and spring, when there is no central heating, indoors can be uncomfortably cool. Light sweaters or vests that can be worn under suit jackets are convenient. Bring appropriate cold-weather clothes for outdoor sports. Lighter wool suits are desirable for summer wear. Women: In general, women in Moscow wear the same style clothing as worn in the U.S. Moderately dressy suits with nice blouses and dresses are worn most often for receptions, dinners, and evenings out. Women need a light coat, raincoat, and heavy coat. These could include anything from a mid-calf washable down coat with a hood, to fur coats, and/or a raincoat with a zip-out liner. Warm, waterproof, thick-soled boots, rainboots, warm gloves or mittens, and thermal or silk long underwear are useful. It is quite common (and completely acceptable by Russian standards) to wear sturdy boots to a dinner or reception, carrying other “inside” shoes and changing upon arrival. Sportswear, a bathing suit, and a large supply of stockings, tights, and underwear are important to bring, although they may all be obtained locally at prices higher than in the U.S. Children: Children can never have enough hats and scarves, sets of gloves and mittens, rain boots and rain gear, as well as snowsuits, pants and boots. Locally purchased clothing may not meet American standards and/or styles and in many cases is more expensive than in the U.S. Babies need warm winter clothing. Scarves, hats, mittens, and wool clothing for infants are available locally, but the prices are much higher than one would pay in the U.S. 486

Cities of the World Supplies and Services European toiletries, paper goods, household cleaners, film, and basic children's toys and games are available in local shops. Be aware that prices are often much higher than in the U.S. CDs are available for sale in kiosks around town and in music stores. There is even a CD rynok. There are numerous computer stores and a computer rynok in Moscow, but it could be more affordable to buy dual-voltage equipment, computer games and supplies in the U.S. Computer paper, ribbon cartridges and other computer supplies are available at computer stores, kiosks and large bookstores. Be advised that the locally available A4 size paper may not fit all printers. E-mail and Internet surfing helps keep visitors in touch with the U.S. There are several providers from which to choose. Plan to spend about twice as much for an internet connection in Moscow as you might in the U.S. A multisystem television set and multisystem VCR receiving NTSC, PAL, and SECAM (Russian) signals are useful in Moscow. Cable service is available.

Religious Activities Most major religions are now represented in Moscow although services in English are not always available.

Education The Anglo-American School (AAS) is supported by the U.S., British and Canadian embassies. The school accepts children from pre-kindergarten through 12th grade. It is located at the Pokrovsky Hills (Hines) complex; children living in Pokrovsky Hills can walk to school. The school usually opens during the third or fourth week in August. It is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges. Most schools in Moscow are unable to accept children with special needs. If your child has an individual educational program (IEP), or needs assistance outside the class-

room, please discuss these requirements with school officials as far in advance as possible.

Other Educational Opportunities Piano rentals, music lessons, horseback riding, fencing, gymnastics, ballet classes, and private tutors for Russian and other languages are reasonably priced. The International Women's Club and American Women's Club both offer a variety of activities, such as yoga, aerobics, and Russian conversation groups, depending upon interest and availability of instruction.

Sports Spectator sports include hockey, football (soccer), and basketball. A large number of international tournaments and championships are held, with increased participation by U.S. teams. Some people have participated in such diverse outdoor sports as skydiving, whitewater rafting, and wild game hunting. Your marksmanship can be tested at Moscow's shooting club; firearms, ammunition, and lessons are available at the site. There is a country club in Moscow that has a golf course. Unfortunately, this sport here is extremely expensive and the golf course is a long drive from town. There is a spring softball and baseball league for children.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Moscow contains a broad spectrum of museums, from pre-Revolutionary art treasures to science and hist o r y. To u r s t o t h e s e a t o f t h e Russian Government, the Kremlin, Lenin's Tomb, and the picturesque, colorful GUM Department store on Red Square, and the homes of such revered Russians as Tolstoy, Gorky, and Chekhov may all be arranged with the assistance of local travel bureaus. Walking tours to the many architectural landmarks in Moscow are a good way to get a feel for the city. Moscow's underground metro system is justly famous. Many stations are elaborately decorated. Izmailovsky Park has become the main attraction for souvenir shop-

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© Wolfgang Kaehler. Reproduced by permission.

Overview of Novosibirsk

ping in a frenzied bazaar atmosphere. Every weekend, local artists and craftsmen gather there to sell their wares to throngs of visitors. In and around Moscow, sightseers will find historic palaces and museums, surrounded by gardens and parks. You can reach St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Riga, Vilnius, Kiev, and many other interesting cities by overnight sleeper train. Other cities such as Sochi, Tbilisi, and Tashkent are only a few hours away by air.

Entertainment The principal hotels and restaurants offer American, European, Russian, and ethnic cuisine from the Commonwealth of Independent States. The quality of food and service is generally acceptable, and new restaurants seem to be opening daily. English/Russian menus are available at many. On the whole, dining out in Moscow is more expensive than in equivalent restaurants

in the U.S. Western chains such as McDonald's, TGI Fridays, Sbarro's, KFC, and Pizza Hut continue to grow. There are several English-language publications for the foreign community that regularly print restaurant reviews and reliable guides to the better restaurants. For the theatergoer, Moscow offers a wide range of entertainment at prices lower than in the U.S. The Bolshoi Theater offers worldfamous ballet and opera programs during all but the summer months. For Russian speakers, the city also has several extraordinarily good dramatic theaters. One of the best is the Moscow Art Theater, where plays by classic Russian playwrights such as Chekhov are often performed. The city's children's and puppet theaters, including the world-famous Obraztsov Puppet Theater, are prime attractions for families. Both Moscow Circuses are highly recommended for children

and adults alike. For classical music lovers, the Moscow Conservatory has a full annual schedule of concerts and recitals featuring Russia's best musical performers. The city also has an active jazz scene. Rock music has gained in popularity in recent years, and concerts are held quite frequently around the city. Tickets to most events are inexpensive and can be bought in advance at the theater or stadium box office, at special kiosks scattered about the city, or obtained by local tour companies. Several movie theaters show first-run, Western-made movies in English or dubbed in Russian. The American Women's Organization offers children's holiday parties.

St. Petersburg St. Petersburg, with a population of nearly 5 million, is the second largest city in Russia. Peter the Great 487

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Cities of the World merce, St. Petersburg is a major producer of electric and electronic equipment, machine tools, nuclear reactor equipment, precision instruments, TV equipment, ships, heavy machinery, tractors, chemicals, and other sophisticated products, as well as consumer goods. It has one of the country's largest dry-cargo ports. It remains a major center for publication, education, and scientific research. Since August 1991, St. Petersburg has been a reform-minded city. Its large military-industrial center, however, has been slow to adapt to changing conditions. U.S. investm e n t i n S t . Pe t e r s b u r g h a s increased significantly in recent years with the opening of several major production facilities. The St. Petersburg consular district taken as a whole accounts for approximately 50% of all U.S. investment in Russia. Nevertheless, crime has increased as a result of the uncertain political and economic situations. Both local and foreign donations have been focused at preserving and restoring the older parts of the city and outlying imperial residences, which were heavily damaged during World War II. AP/Wide World Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

Red Square and the Kremlin in Moscow, Russia

founded St. Petersburg in 1703 and transferred the capital from Moscow to St. Petersburg in 1712 to provide Russia with a “Window on the West.” The city was renamed Petrograd at the outset of World War I, and in 1918 the capital was moved back to Moscow. On January 26, 1924, 5 days after Lenin's death, the city's name was changed to Leningrad. During WWII, the city suffered historic tragedy as over 480,000 people starved to death in the 900-day siege. In 1991, as a result of a citywide referendum, the city resumed its historical name of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg is slightly warmer than Moscow, but it is damper since 488

winter winds blow off the Gulf of Finland. Snow may fall as early as October, and sunlight dwindles to o n l y a f e w h o u r s a d ay i n t h e months of January and February. March is generally the rainiest month of the year. June brings the beautiful “White Nights” when the sun barely dips below the horizon. Summer weather can be quite varied, with temperatures fluctuating between the 50s and 80s. Although the city declined in political importance with the move of the capital back to Moscow, St. Petersburg retained importance as a military-industrial and cultural center. With a highly skilled labor force and a long history of industry and com-

The older parts of St. Petersburg continue to suffer from the lack of investment over the past 8 decades.

Utilities Electrical service in St. Petersburg (including off-compound apartments) is 220v, 50 hz. Most electrical outlets accept two round prongs; two general types are in use. Most apartments have both “German” and the smaller European-sized outlets.

Food The growing season in St. Petersburg is short. Seasonal produce appears in the local markets for shorter periods than in Moscow. In winter, local greenhouses provide a small supply of produce; fresh fruits and vegetables are also brought from the southern parts of Russia and Europe at inflated prices. Finn-

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Cities of the World ish supermarkets offer a selection of fruits and vegetables year-round at prices considerably higher than those in the Washington, D.C. area. The selection of meats available in local Western-style grocery stores is more limited than in the U.S., though acceptable chicken and pork is usually available. Beef tends to be significantly inferior to that found in the U.S.

Clothing Winter temperatures in St. Petersburg can fall to -40 °E The climate is damper than in Moscow. All visitors should pack appropriate clothing. Warm parkas, boots, long underwear, face masks, hats, etc., are invaluable during the winter months. Warm clothing for children and infants is essential. Rain, melting snow, and dirty streets combine to make walking in St. Petersburg messy during fall and spring. Waterproof, insulated footwear or galoshes are a must. Dark-colored clothes (especially slacks and jeans) are more practical than white or light-colored clothes. Winter clothing and rainwear of all sizes are available in St. Petersburg, but prices are high. Days are warm in summer, but by August, nights are cool. Except in the middle of summer, you will find many opportunities to wear sweaters. Summer is the time of mosquitoes, so bring ple nty of insect repellent. Mosquito nets are also advisable to make sleeping more comfortable for small children.

Supplies and Services Although most everyday items can be found in St. Petersburg, prices on certain items tend to be higher than in the U.S. Feminine hygiene products, Western name brand kitchen and cleaning supplies, cosmetics, and name brand drugs are generally more expensive than in the U.S. A common problem when buying cleaning, kitchen, and automobile supplies is having to contend with usage instructions in a language other than Russian or English.

Local drycleaning facilities are improving, but consistently acceptable service remains elusive. Reliable drycleaning is available in major hotels and through a few private services, although rates are much higher than in the U.S. Spot remover and cold-water detergents are indispensable. Avoid clothing that needs frequent cleaning. Russian beauticians and barbershops are satisfactory, and prices are reasonable. Appointments are recommended.

Domestic Help Domestic help is readily available at affordable rates. You may hire Russian citizens as housekeepers or nannies for your children, since permanent day care is not always available.

Religious Activities Within or near St. Petersburg are many active Russian Orthodox churches, several Roman Catholic, Lutheran, and Baptist churches, a Jewish synagogue, several branches of the Mormon church, and various other religious organizations. There are also missionaries from many religious denominations. Most religious services take place in Russian. Strictly foreign congregations hold services in their native la nguages, including Englis h, French, and German.

Education The Anglo-American School of St. Petersburg, a branch of the AngloAmerican School of Moscow, serves students in kindergarten through grade 12. The strong Americanbased curriculum is enriched with instruction in local culture and history through visits to and instruction from t he city 's numerous museums. Kindergarten students must be 5 years old by December 31 of the year of entrance. The school is located in a former Russian kindergarten building on Petrograd Island and is able to accommodate approximately 95 students. For the 1999/2000 academic school year, approximately 90 students were

enrolled representing 18 nationalities. Some parents have used Russian day care or kindergarten facilities. They have proven satisfactory for those few parents and children who are willing to cope with learning a new language, unfamiliar food, and rather strict discipline. During the initial months, the adjustment can be difficult. Russian facilities operate on a three-quarter or full-day basis. As they are set up for working parents, the facilities are often crowded, and significant delays can be expected in finding and getting access to a suitable facility.

Special Educational Opportunities Those individuals with even average language skills may take advantage of public classes and lessons in all areas of interest where other students and participants are Russianspeaking nationals.

Sports Depending on the season, you may make your own arrangements to attend football (soccer), ice hockey, figure skating, track-and-field, boxing, basketball, auto, bicycle and motorcycle racing, and swimming events. In most cases, prices are inexpensive. Soccer and ice hockey are especially popular; teams in both sports are excellent. Swimming is not recommended in the Gulf of Finland because of the high level of organic and other pollutants. However, indoor swimming pools are available, with some restrictions. If you wish to use a public pool, you must have written permission from a Russian doctor attesting to your state of health. Fishing is popular in the Neva and the Gulf, but eating fish from the Neva is not recommended. Excursion motorboats, including hydrofoils, also ply the river and canals for sightseeing. There are good bicycle paths in some city parks and along the Gulf. Winter sports include cross-country skiing and ice-skating. Outdoor rinks throughout the city are open 489

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to staff members. Cross country skiing is possible at city parks outside the city center and in the RepinoZelenogorsk resort area near the Consulate General recreation facility on the Gulf of Finland. Skates and skis are available in St. Petersburg or in Finland, although if you are an avid winter sports enthusiast, bring your own equipment.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Near St. Petersburg are former royal palace grounds that have been beautifully restored and are now open to the public. These include Peterhof, with its magnificent grounds and fountains; Pavlovsk, the most completely restored royal home; and Tsarskoe Selo, formerly Pushkin, in which are located several palaces, one of which was the home of the last tsar and his family. Other palaces, such as Oranienbaum and Gatchina, are easily accessible for day trips. Many people usually travel to these palaces in their own vehicles, but public transportation, including summer hydrofoil service to Peterhof, is available, convenient, and inexpensive, though crowded. St. Petersburg has about 40 museums covering a broad range of exhibits, from anthropology to zoology. First among these is the worldfamous Hermitage, well-known for its collections of Rembrandts, French Impressionists, and Scythian gold. In the Russian Museum, you can see the best of Russian art through the centuries from the icons of Rublev to present-day painters. Several large cathedrals have also been opened to the public as museums, though many - such as St. Isaac's Cathedral, one of the largest in the world, and the Kazanskiy Cathedral - now function again as churches. The Peter and Paul Cathedral contains graves of Russian tsars since Peter the Great. St. Petersburg offers a feast for the amateur and the serious photographer. There are a number of very good local photography shops which 490

offer color developing and printing at reasonable prices. Finland: The Finnish border is about 140 miles away - a 3-hour auto trip in good weather from St. Petersburg. You may like to travel to border towns, such as Lappeenranta, for shopping or relaxation. Helsinki is another 3 hours from the border, for a total trip of about 250 miles. Several flights operate daily between St. Petersburg and Helsinki. The flight is about 43 minutes. Trains between St. Petersburg and Helsinki run daily. Round-trip train fare currently ranges from $90 to $150. A one-way trip takes about 5 hours. Estonia: Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is approximately 200 miles away and can be reached in 4-5 hours by car and 10 hours by train. There is one night train that runs between St. Petersburg and Tallinn. Round-trip train fare is less than $50. The smaller university town of Tartu is located less than 150 miles west of Tallinn and can be reached by daily buses and trains in 3-4 hours. Round-trip bus fare is $20 and train/electrichka fares range from $30-$60. Latvia: The capital, Riga, is 400 miles from St. Petersburg. A total trip by car is approximately 7-8 hours, by train approximately 11-12 hours. One train runs daily from St. Petersburg to Riga. Round-trip train fare is approximately $85$145. Lithuania: The capital, Vilnius, is approximately 460 miles away. A total trip by car is about 8-9 hours, by train 11-13 hours. Trains to Vilnius run daily. Round-trip train fare is between $60$125.

Entertainment St. Petersburg has about 30 theaters, concert halls, opera houses, and “palaces of culture” that offer a wide variety of ballet, opera, classical music, and plays. The best

known is the Mariinskiy Theater, formerly named and recognized around the world as the Kirov Opera and Ballet Theater. The Mussorgskiy Opera and Ballet Theater (formerly Maliy Theater) also has a full repertoire of ballet and opera, and arranges its vacation period so that it performs throughout July and August, when the Mariinskiy is usually on vacation or on tour. St. Petersburg has two symphony orchestras, one of which enjoys a worldwide reputation. The Philharmonic Hall, named after local composer Dmitriy Shostakovich, is one of the finest in Europe. There are other concert halls and a choir hall, all of which offer programs during the September-June season. The St. Petersburg Circus is definitely worth a visit. Light operettas are given at the Musical Comedy Theater, and there are two puppet theaters in town. The October Concert Hall and the city's several palaces of culture often have concerts that feature popular music or play host to foreign troupes. Both cultural and sporting events are staged at the Yubileyniy and several other palaces of sport. Serious theater fans, whether or not they speak Russian, will find visits to the Maliy Dramatic Theater, Otkrytiy Theater, and the Theater on Liteiniy worthwhile. These are considered locally to be the most avant-garde of the regular theaters and include in their repertoires works by contemporary American playwrights, such as Tennessee Williams and Arthur Miller. The Pushkin Theater is one of the most splendidly housed in Europe. Films shown in English or with English subtitles are a rarity usually, Russian is dubbed over the o r i g i n a l l a n g u ag e. T w o m o v i e houses in St. Petersburg show firstrun films in English, although only infrequently. Videocassettes in English may be rented at a few places in the city.

Social Activities The American community in St. Petersburg - including students on

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Cities of the World study-abroad programs, research fellows, businessmen, interns, missionaries, and volunteers - is closeknit, and informal get-togethers and spontaneous acquaintances with a wide variety of individuals from the U.S. are common. The Marine Security Guard Detachment invites both members of the Consulate General community and private citizens from outside of the Consulate General (including Russians) to social functions at the Marine House approximately every 2-3 weeks. In the past few years, St. Petersburg has enjoyed a significant increase in the quantity and quality of restaurants. A quick glance at the restaurant guide in the city's Englishlanguage newspaper shows restaurants that specialize in Chinese, European, French, German, Indian, Italian, Korean, Mexican, and Russian cuisine, as well as several pizza establishments. Other restaurants offer Georgian, American, and Central Asian cuisine. Many of the “Western-style” restaurants offer a mixture of Russian and international dishes. Several of the hotel restaurants, and many of the Russian restaurants, offer floor shows. Most of the others offer some form of entertainment - from jazz combos to folk ensembles-often somewhat louder than musical entertainment to which Americans are accustomed. Service is sometimes slower than in American restaurants. Recent years have also seen a large growth in fast-food establishments in the city, with prices comparable to those in the U.S. There are fast food shops specializing in roasted chicken, pizza, and Russian treats. The first of five Golden Arches appeared in St. Petersburg in 1996. Possibilities for social contacts between Russian citizens and foreigners have normalized and become comparable to those in other countries. Frequently, opportunities arise for such contacts during daily work or while traveling outside the

city. St. Petersburg also has an active and growing American and international business community.

Health General health conditions in St. Petersburg are similar to those in Moscow, although dampness probably accounts for a higher incidence of colds and respiratory ailments. For health problems Americans and their families primarily use the American Medical Center of St. Petersburg or the EuroMed Clinic. The AMC is the only primarily English-speaking medical clinic in St. Petersburg. It is staffed with both Western-trained medical doctors and Russian doctors. AMC currently offers the services of a Western-trained dentist. Pharmacy and laboratory services are available on site. The AMC offers 24hour doctor availability, house calls, and emergency care. All of these services are extremely expensive. American’s have also used the services of special St. Petersburg polyclinics for adults and children, depending on the circumstances of the illness or injury. While local pharmacies offer a panoply of medications, it is often difficult to find a particular brand or formulation. The St. Petersburg water supply originates from nearby Lake Ladoga. Western health authorities have noted a high incidence of infection by the intestinal parasite giardia lamblia in travelers returning from St. Petersburg. Such evidence points to St. Petersburg as a possible site of infection. This diarrheainducing parasite is found in many parts of the world and can be contracted by drinking untreated tap water.

Automobiles Unleaded gasoline is available throughout St. Petersburg. The city has a small but growing number of service stations, but replacement parts for both Russian and Western automobiles can often be difficult to obtain locally. Bring only cars in excellent condition.

The following dealers also have offices in St. Petersburg, with limited service centers: BMW, Chevy, Chrysler, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Jaguar, Jeep, Mazda, Mercedes, Nissan, Peugeot, Saab, and Volvo. Supplies and services are expensive. Winterizing your car is important because of low winter temperatures. Low viscosity oil and antifreeze protection to -40 °F should be provided before a fall or winter shipment. Since few vehicles will start without assistance on the coldest mornings, bring a strong battery and jumper cables. Snow tires, or at least tires with good all-weather treads, are necessary for winter driving (November through March).If you are in Finland, the law requires snow tires during severe winter weather. Studded snow tires may be used only between mid-October and midApril. Snow tires (and studs, when used) must be on all four wheels.

Vladivostok Vladivostok is Russia's principal Pacific port and the largest city in the Russian Far East, with a population of about 700,000. Founded in 1860 as a military outpost, Vladivostok abruptly became the Russian Pacific naval base when Port Arthur fell in the Russo-Japanese War. The city now serves as the capital of Primorskiy Kray (Maritime Territory). Vladivostok's harbor is a major fishing and shipping hub, and the city acts as the eastern terminus of the Trans-Siberian railroad. Before World War 11, Vladivostok was well on its way to becoming an international commercial center. The Soviets closed the city to foreigners in 1958, however, and it was only declared an open city as of January 1, 1992. Currently, Vladivostok's foreign contacts and foreign population are rapidly growing as American, Japanese, Korean, and Chinese businesses and tourists move into the Russian Far East in increasing numbers. 491

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Vladivostok has a relatively mild climate by Russian standards, moderated by its location on the Pacific Ocean. Spring is chilly until May, with occasional snow occurring in March. Summers are cool and rainy, and autumn is beautiful, with its warm temperatures and sunny weather. Winter is cold and dry, with temperatures ranging between 0 °F and 25 °F. Brisk, humid sea winds can make temperatures seem even colder. Vladivostok is 10 hours ahead of Greenwich mean time (GMT), 15 hours ahead of eastern standard time (EST).

Utilities Electricity is 220v, 50-hertz, AC. Outlets are primarily standard Russian two-prong (round). This size is similar to standard European, but the prongs are somewhat thinner Vladivostok's utility systems are antiquated. Hot water outages are common in summer and fall, and occasional heating and electricity outages occur.

Food The range and quality of foods available locally is improving, but still limited, especially in winter. Foods available locally in summer/ fall include: fruits (apples, oranges, lemons, bananas), onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, garlic, pork, beef, eggs, fish (fresh, frozen, smok ed, and salte d), and shellfish. Imported soft drinks, beer, and juices are available as well as imported tinned meats, rice, and macaroni. In winter, vegetables and meats are much harder to find, and the availability of most other foods varies from week to week. Prices are relatively low by American standards.

Men: Men should bring wool suits, sweaters, gloves, heavy winter coats, lightweight jackets, and a good raincoat with liner. Insulated boots, scarves, and winter hats are useful in the cold winter months. Good-quality fur hats may be purchased in Vladivostok at reasonable prices. Even in the summer months, heavyweight, woolen clothing can often be worn. Business attire in Russia is similar to that in the U.S. Bring sturdy, comfortable shoes, since Vladivostok's weather can cause shoes to wear quickly. Bring a full supply of casual clothes, including bathing suits, as swimming is possible at some beaches in late summer. Women: Bring two pairs of each s t y l e s h o e y o u p l a n t o w e a r. Women's shoes, particularly pumps, wear quickly here and cannot be easily repaired. Business attire is similar to that in the U.S. At social events, cocktail dresses are usually worn. Children: Bring mainly sturdy, warm, washable play clothes. Zippered, one-piece nylon snowsuits are recommended, together with material to patch this type of garment. Waterproof boots with insulated foam lining, several pairs of waterproof mittens, long thermal underwear, and waterproof snow pants are all recommended. Bring scarves, woolen hats and hoods, rubber boots, warm slacks, knee socks, tights, slicker raincoats with hoods, tennis shoes, and warm sweaters. Nightgowns or pajamas, slippers, and bathrobes are also needed. Summer clothing should include washable play clothes, slacks, jeans, shorts, and bathing suits. Babies need warm winter clothing.

Supplies and Services Clothing Although the availability and quality of clothing in Vladivostok is increasing, it remains difficult, if not impossible, to purchase Western-quality clothing locally. Inexpensive, Chinese-made clothing and shoes are becoming increasingly available, but quality is low. 492

Bring insect repellent effective against mosquitoes and ticks. Bring any necessary over-the-counter and prescription medicines, cosmetics, and toiletries, such as shampoo, soap, and toothpaste. Although many basic services are available in some form in Vladivos-

tok, quality is often poor and service slow. Local barbers and hairdressers can provide basic, competent haircuts for relatively low prices. Shoe repair and tailoring services are available, but of low quality.

Education There is an international school, operated by Quality Schools International, for grades kindergarten through sixth grade. It offers a traditional American curriculum. English language schooling in Vladivostok is limited. Several city schools offer “English-language” programs that are actually carried out primarily in Russian with one or two classes a day taught in English. Local schools have adequate curriculum by American standards, but the schools lack sufficient supplies, equipment, and teaching materials. Overcrowding has forced most of the schools to adopt a two-shift daily schedule. The language barrier may make total reliance on the Russian system difficult.

Special Educational Opportunities There are several area universities offering courses on a variety of subjects, leading to a degree. However, students must have a strong command of Russian to be accepted.

Sports Vladivostok, Primorskiy Territory, and the entire Russian Far East offer a wide variety of outdoor activities. In Vladivostok, popular summer sports include sailing, fishing, hunting, tennis, baseball, and soccer. Winter sports include basketbal l , c ro s s- c o u nt ry sk i i n g, i ce skating, and ice fishing. There are several public tennis courts in Vladivostok, although most are in relatively poor condition, and during the peak season (May-September), players often must wait for a court. Public basketball courts (indoor and out-door) and soccer/ baseball fields are also available. There are many opportunities for Americans to participate in local sports through affiliation with various club teams or through social contacts. Sailboats and motor ves-

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Cities of the World sels may be rented and are popular in the summer for trips to nearby islands and beaches. It is also possible to go deep-sea fishing, while shore fishing and freshwater (particularly trout) fishing are popular throughout the region. Hiking and camping are also popular, particularly in the mountains and taiga (primeval forest) north of the city. Swimming is not recommended at many of the beaches near the city due to environmental concerns and the relatively cold water. There are several sandy beaches, which offer good sites for picnics and sunbathing, within an hour's drive of the city. Scuba diving for advanced divers is available and some scuba equipment may even be rented locally.

changes, below-standard hotels, and harsh weather can combine to make an international trip more attractive. Currently, there are international flights to Korea, Japan, and China. In summer, there is a regularly scheduled passenger liner service to Japan and south Korea on Russian ships.

Vladivostok's relatively snow-free winters make it necessary to travel inland for the best cross-country skiing, but deep snow can be found less than 100 miles away. Downhill skiing is available in various locations in the Russian Far East. Bring all sports equipment, including skis, skates, balls, and rackets. Equipment available locally is of poor quality.

Vladivostok has several small museums, including an art museum, a museum of natural hist o r y, a n d a m i l i t a r y m u s e u m . Unlike many Russian cities of its size, Vladivostok has no major, permanent orchestra, theater, or circus troupe.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Although the Russian Far Eastlacks the variety of historic sites and old cities found in the European parts of Russia, it does offer a wide variety of beautiful scenery for the adventurous traveler. The Primorskiy territory coast, marked by numerous rocky islands, steep cliffs, and isolated beaches, is accessible by chartered boat. Tour companies offer hiking and camping tours to the taiga, Kamchatka's volcanoes, and winter ski trips to Siberian ski areas. Hunting and fishing expeditions can also be arranged. The city of Khabarovsk, about 450 miles north of Vladivostok on the Amur River, is the other main center and economic hub of the Russian Far East and can be reached by overnight train or a 90-minute Aeroflot Flight. Travel within Russia can be tiring. Frequent transportation schedule

Entertainment Vladivostok has limited entertainment facilities, but the number is increasing as the city develops. There are several good joint-venture restaurants in the city, with prices ranging from inexpensive to moderate. Although there are nightclubs and casinos, nightlife for the foreign community centers around restaurants and home entertaining.

Visiting musical and theatrical performers, the Moscow Circus and other travelling circuses, a small local orchestra, and several small local theater groups provide cultural entertainment. Many foreign residents bring videocassette recorders. Because there are no tape clubs in Vladivostok, bring a supply with you. You can add tapes by ordering from catalogs or by borrowing from friends. Some Russian (PAL/SECAM) videos may be purchased on the local economy, including American films and TV shows that have been dubbed into Russian. Bring a large supply of books and other reading materials with you. English-language books, periodicals, and newspapers are not available in Vladivostok, so magazine subscriptions are also important. You may read about current events in Vladivostok on the Internet at the following sites: http://vladivostok.com/golden-horn or http:// www.vladnews.ru. The former is a

Russian-language daily which has an English weekly page. The latter is an English-language internet newspaper.

Social Activities The social life among the small American community is casual and personally arranged. The total resident American population of Vladivostok numbers ab out 70, not including the official American community, so contacts between Americans are frequent. Americans have no difficulty meeting Russians through professional and social interaction. There is an International Women's Club, consi s ti n g o f Am e r i c an , R u s si a n, K orean, Japanese, and Indian women. Due to the relatively small size of the foreign community, contacts are frequent.

Health You should endeavor to receive all necessary inoculations before arriving in Vladivostok. Among those required are Japanese B encephalitis vaccines (for both tick and mosquito), hepatitis B vaccine, and gamma globulin. Several of these vaccines are given as a series over several months, so advance planning is required. Local Russian medical facilities are not recommended, except in case of emergency. Bottled water is also readily available in the city. Other health hazards include mosquitoes, which carry a strain of Japanese B encepha l i t i s, a n d t i c k s, w h i c h c a r r y another strain of the same disease. Vaccinations provide complete protection, but bring mosquito and tick repellent anyway to avoid bites.

Automobiles As Vladivostok's public transportation is limited, bring a vehicle. Japanese vehicles are common in the city, and Toyota and Nissan maintain service centers with trained mechanics. South Korean and European vehicles are slowly becoming mo re common.Consider a four-wheel-drive vehicle, because Vladivostok's hilly terrain 493

Russia makes winter driving difficult. Snow tires are helpful in winter, but are not mandatory, as snowfall is infrequent. As protection against car theft and vandalism, bring a steering wheel lock or other theft-protection device. Before departing, ensure that Vladivostok is listed as an entry point on your Russian visa.

Yekaterinburg Yekaterinburg lays claim to the title of Russia's third largest city and former President Yeltsin's hometown. It is best known to Americans as the place where the last Tsar and his family were murdered by the Bolsheviks in 1918 and the location where American U-2 spy plane pilot Gary Powers was shot down in 1960. Yekaterinburg is situated in the foothills of the Ural Mountains and is nominally an Asian city, lying 20 miles east of the continental divide between Europe and Asia. Like Chicago, its closest American counterpart, Yekaterinburg is the unofficial capital of a key region in the country's heartland, the Urals. Yekaterinburg was founded in 1723 by Peter the Great, who named it for his wife Catherine I. Tsar Peter recognized the importance of the iron and copper-rich Urals region for Imperial Russia's industrial and military development. By the mid18th century, metallurgical plants had sprung up across the Urals to cast cannons and Yekaterinburg's mint was producing most of Russia's coins. Today, Yekaterinburg, much like Pittsburgh in the 1970s, is struggling to cope with dramatic economic changes that have made its heavy industries uncompetitive on the world market. Huge defense plants are struggling to survive, while retail and service sectors are developing rapidly. Yekaterinburg and the surrounding area were a center of the Soviet Union's military industrial complex. Soviet tanks, missiles and aircraft engines were made in the Urals. As a result, the Soviets closed the entire region to contact with the outside world for 494

Cities of the World over 40 years during the Cold War. In 1992, thanks to lobbying efforts by local leaders, the new Russian Federation opened Yekaterinburg and the Urals to contact with the West. The U.S. was at the forefront of Western efforts to seek to establish contacts in the Urals.

Food The availability and quality of foods is improving here, but is still limited, especially in winter. Fresh fruits and vegetables are usually available, but selection varies seasonally. Many American staples rarely appear on store shelves. Imported liquor and wine are in short supply and expensive. Availability of items is subject to change. Yekaterinburg's water is not potable.

Clothing Yekaterinburg has a continental climate similar to that of the American Midwest, with freezing winter temperatures and warm summers. Winter temperatures occasionally drop as low as minus 40 °F and the first snow usually falls in October. Planning for winter weather should be a high priority. Winter-weight clothing and boots are essential. Snow and ice make the sidewalks very slippery, so footwear with traction is highly recommended. Since the climate is very dry during the winter months, skin moisturizer plus lip balm are recommended items to bring.

Religious Activities There are no religious services conducted in English in the city. Russian Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Muslim, Seventh day Adventist, Pentecostal, and Jewish services are held weekly. The Methodists, Baptists, Lutherans and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints carry out missionary activities locally, and several of these missions also have weekly services.

Education There is now one English-language school in Yekaterinburg, but with a

Russian curriculum. Other city schools offer one or two classes a day conducted in English. There are no international schools.

Sports The Urals' many lakes, forests and mountains are great for hiking, swimming and fishing. Winter sports include cross-country skiing and ice skating. The Ural Mountains, however, offer only limited opportunities for downhill skiing. Yekaterinburg's most popular spectator sports are hockey, basketball, and soccer.

Touring and Outdoor Activities The Urals possess beautiful natural scenery, particularly northern Tyumen's distant tundra and taiga. For Russian history and culture buffs, ConGen Yekaterinburg's consular district offers many landmarks including the childhood home museums of classical composer Tschaikovskiy and mad monk R a sp u t i n ; t h e N i z h n y ay a S i n yachika village outdoor museum of pre-revolutionary architecture; historic cities like Tobolsk; and the 400-year-old monastery at Verkhoturye, the 16th century capital of the Urals. Travel is usually routed through Frankfurt (via Lufthansa's direct flight three times per week) or through Moscow via daily Urals Air, Transaero, or Aeroflot flights. There are also regular flights to St. Petersburg and other major cities in the former Soviet Union. Yekaterinburg's airport now features charter flights to many foreign countries, including Turkey, China, and the United Arab Emirates.

Entertainment The performing arts are Yekaterinburg's cultural strong point. The city has an excellent symphony orchestra, opera and ballet theater, and many other performing arts venues. Tickets are inexpensive. The city's most notable museums are its fine arts museum, which contains paintings by some of Russia's 19th-century masters, and the geo-

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Cities of the World logical museum which houses an extensive collection of stones and gems from the Urals. Yekaterinburg's nightlife options are limited. There are a handful of expensive Western-style restaurants and bars, none of which would be worth frequenting in a more cosmopolitan city. Glitzy nightclubs and casinos have appeared to serve the city's nouveau riche clientele. Several new dance clubs have sprung up that offer a chance to rub shoulders with Yekaterinburg's more affluent youth.

Health Yekaterinburg's health care delivery system does not meet American standards. There is no Western clinic in the city. Basic health care is marginal; dental care is inadequate. Visit a physician and dentist prior to arrival. Inoculations against all forms of hepatitis as well as tickborne encephalitis (usually received in Russia) are especially important. The nearest Western-style basic medical care is available in Moscow, a 2-hour flight from Yekaterinburg, or in Frankfurt, a 4-hour flight away.

Currency Yekaterinburg is a cash-only economy; credit cards are rarely accepted; travelers checks are not accepted anywhere.

OTHER CITIES SAMARA, formerly Kuybyshev, an administrative center, is situated on the Volga River, 550 miles southeast of Moscow. It was founded in 1586. The city’s position at the convergence of the Volga and Samara rivers contributed to its growth as a trade hub, as well as its status as a provincial capital. There are a number of factories here, many powered by a hydroelectric plant up-river. Samara has research and cultural organizations, and a population of nearly 1.3 million. VOLGOGRAD, formerly Stalingrad, is best known for its valiant

stand against the German Army in a decisive battle during World War II. The city was almost totally destroyed, and the losses of human life (on both sides) numbered in the hundreds of thousands. Volgograd was known as Tsaritsyn before its name was Stalingrad; in 1961, it was given its present designation. It originated as a Russian fort against raiders in 1589, and became an important city with the advent of railroads. Today, it is a major river port and railroad junction, and has over one million residents. A large hydroelectric power station is located in the city, which is situated at the terminus of the Volga-Don canal. NIZHNIY NOVGOROD, formerly Gorki, is a major river port and one of the chief industrial cities of the Russian Federation. Its population is over 1.4 million. Its named was changed in 1932 from Nizhniy Novgorod to honor Maksim Gorki, novelist and playwright who was born here in 1868. In 1991, its name wa s c h a n g e d b a c k t o N i z h n i y Novgorod. The city, situated where the Volga River meets the Okra, was a frontier post in the early part of the 13th century. It was a principal trading center for Russia and the East. Nizhniy Novgorod was the capital of its principality in the 14th century, before its annexation by Moscow in 1392, and later became famous for its large, successful trade fairs. In the 18th and 19th centuries, it was known as a cultural and political center. NOVOSIBIRSK is the largest industrial center in Siberia, and a rail, river, and air transportation hub. It is the capital of the oblast whose name it bears. The Siberian branch of the world-famous Academy of Science is located here. The population is over 1.4 million. Known as Novonikolayevsk from its f o u n d i n g i n 1 8 9 6 u n t i l i t wa s renamed in 1925, the city became a trade center during the building of the Trans-Siberian Railroad. During the Second World War, entire

industrial plants were moved here from threatened areas of the western Soviet Union.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The Russian Federation is physically the largest country in the world, covering 17 million square kilometers or 1.8 times the size of the U.S. The territory of the Russian Federation covers 11 time zones and stretches 6,000 miles from east to west. It has a population of about 147.5 million compared with the 265 million in the U.S. Politically, the Russian Federation is a union of 89 constituent republics, regions, and territories that enjoy varying degrees of economic and political independence from the central government located in the capital, Moscow. In the 19th century, most Russians lived in small, isolated villages, with little freedom to travel. Now, Russia is predominantly urban. Traditionally, Russia's population, with the exception of the upper class, has had few modern comforts and conveniences. Enclosed by long borders, with few natural defenses, Russians have a history of xenophobia. Given Russia's long history of authoritarian governments, until recently few Russians had much experience with pluralist democracy a n d m a r k e t - b a s e d e c o n o m y. Increasingly, however, democratic institutions and market economics are finding widespread support. A dynamic private sector has given rise to a growing middle class in and around the major metropolitan centers. Moscow is the largest city in Russia and is located west of the great Russian plain on the banks of the Moscow Rivet at 37°73' E and 55º45' The city is built on several low hills varying from 25 feet to 815 feet above sea level. Moscow's short 495

Russia summers are as warm as those in the northern U.S. Winters in Moscow are comparable to winters in Chicago. Snow begins in October and continues periodically through April, although snowfall in May is not unusual. Annual rainfall averages 21 inches, with the heaviest rains falling between May and October. Prevailing winds are southerly and southwesterly. Due to Moscow's northern location, daylight varies from 7 hours in December to 17-1/2 hours in June. The average temperature in June and July is 66 °F, but the summer temperatures frequently reach the low 90s. In the winter the temperature may fall to m i n u s 4 0 ° F, b u t t h e av e r a g e December and January temperature is 14 °E Though Moscow's winter air usually is dry, the wind chill factor makes the temperature feel much colder. St. Petersburg, Russia's second largest city and the former imperial capital, is located on a flat plain at the mouth of the Neva River on the Gulf of Finland at 55° 57' N and 30° 20' E. Established in 1703, the city is built on a series of 101 islands, and is laced by canals and various streams of the Neva. The climate in St. Petersburg is milder than in Moscow but is damp and misty. Average temperatures are 64 °F in July and 17 °F in January. St. Petersburg is famous for its “white nights” which occur in June when the sun shines for nearly 19 hours and sunset only brings semi-darkness. Yekaterinburg, Russia's third largest city with an estimated population of 1.5 million, is located near the center of Russia, at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. It is the Russian equivalent of Pittsburgh and second only to Moscow in terms of industrial production. Founded in 1723, Yekaterinburg today is the seat of the government for the Sverdlovsk region, which contains numerous heavy industries, mining concerns, and steel factories. In addition, Yekaterinburg is a major center for industrial research and development as well as home to numerous institutes of 496

Cities of the World higher education, technical training, and scientific research.

range of political parties and movements contesting offices.

Vladivostok, the largest city in the Russian Far East and home to the Russian Pacific fleet, is an important center for trade with the Pacific Rim countries. Closed to foreigners from 1958 to 1992, the city now is home to many foreign businesses and consulates. The climate in Vladivostok is milder than in many other Russian cities due to its location on the Pacific Ocean. Winter temperatures range between 0° and 25 °F.

The most recent elections to Russia's lower half of the Federal Assembly, the State Duma, were held in December 1999. The last presidential election took place in March 2000. Membership in the upper house of the Federal Assembly, the Federation Council, was made elective in 1996. Each of the Federation's 89 constituent republics, regions, and territories is represented by two members, the head of the local executive branch and the chair of the local legislature. The State Duma comprises 450 seats, of which half are from single-mandate districts and half are from party lists. Both chambers participate in shaping policy and enacting legislation, though the State Duma bears the brunt of the legislative workload.

Population The majority of Russia's 148 million inhabitants is predominantly Slavic. The Federation consists of 89 subjects, including constituent republics, territories, and autonomous regions that enjoy varying degrees of economic and political independence from the central government. Moscow is Russia's largest city (population: 9 million) and is the capital of the Federation. St. Petersburg is Russia's second largest city (population 5 million). In the Russian Far East, the predominant city is Vladivostok, which is becoming an important commercial center in the Federation's trade with the Pacific Rim.

Public Institutions Po l i t i c a l l y, e c o n o m i c a l l y, a n d socially, the Russian Federation continues to be in a state of transition. Although constitutional structures are well-defined and democratic in concept, genuine democratization continues to be a slow, but generally positive transition. The 1993 Constitution provides for an elected President and a government headed by a Prime Minister. There is a bicameral legislature, the Federal Assembly, consisting of the State Duma and the Federation Council. The President and the members of the Federal Assembly have won office in competitive elections judged to be largely free and fair, with a broad

Although it is beginning to show signs of independence, Russia's judiciary remains relatively weak and ineffective compared with the legislative and executive branches of the government. Judges are now only starting to assert their constitutionally mandated powers. The country's highest court, the Constitut iona l Court, reconvened i n March 1995, after the new 1993 Constitution entered into force. The Constitution empowers the court to arbitrate disputes between the other two branches and between the central and regional governments. It also is authorized to rule on violations of constitutional rights, to examine appeals from various bodies, and to participate in impeachment proceedings against the President. The Constitutional Court, however, may not examine cases on its own initiative and is limited in the scope of issues it can hear. A vigorous and critical media demonstrates that freedom of the press continues to exist in Russia. However, financial constraints make it nearly impossible for the print and broadcast media to survive without the support of business or political sponsors, who, as a result, have the

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Cities of the World power to influence public opinion. Such sponsors generally represent a sufficiently broad cross section of the Russian political spectrum to provide a variety of points of view on political developments in Russia. Russian television and radio are similarly affected, but provide a narrower spectrum of political viewpoints than the print media.

Arts, Science, and Education Russian research, in some physical and mathematics sciences and in some branches of medicine, is of a high order. In history, sociology, psychology, political science, and, even in certain biological sciences, Marxist and Leninist preconceptions seriously retarded the development of objective scholarship. Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, Russian scientists have been allowed more academic freedom, but this freedom has resulted in a serious depletion of the country's human resources, as many Russian scientists have emigrated to other countries, creating a “brain drain.”

Commerce and Industry Russia remains in the process of developing the legal basis of a modern market economy. Since for several generations the economy was ruled by a command system that prohibited private enterprise, this task is formidable, and was exacerbated by the August 1998 financial crisis and threefold ruble depreciation. Business operating costs are relatively high, as are interest rates for business loans; and tax and accounting regulations remain murky. Interpretations of laws and regulations often vary. Reflecting this environment, foreign investment has entered Russia at a cautious pace, albeit one that seems to be accelerating again as of mid2000, since the advent of the Putin administration has been perceived as promising greater political and economic stability. Various sources estimate cumulative foreign direct

investment in Russia through 1999 at between $12-$13 billion, most of which has gone into oil extraction and food and consumer goods manufacturing. Russia's government coffers have received a boost from taxes on higher oil export revenues in 1999-2000, although it remains to be seen whether this windfall can be used to leverage the broader economy and promote the restructuring that Russian enterprises must undergo if they are to become more competitive. In downtown Moscow itself, the economic and commercial transition are more advanced than in the country at large. Western consumer goods are generally available in Moscow, although retail and wholesale outlets are fewer and farther between than in Western countries. The service sector (in everything from internet service and residential cable TV to dentistry, hotels and restaurants to department stores and fast-food delivery) is developing rapidly, fueled by the inflow of Western companies over the past decade (most of whom have retained a presence here despite belt-tightening during the economic downturn in 1998-99).

Transportation Automobiles Driving in Russia requires constant attention, as Russian traffic regulations and procedures differ from those in the U.S. Speed limits are seldom observed; there is little, if any, lane discipline; and defensive driving is mandatory. Many pedestrians, oblivious to oncoming traffic, cross the street at random, which presents a real hazard. Streets are dimly lit at night and pedestrians wear dark clothing that makes them difficult to see. Although trucks are not allowed inside the Garden Ring without a special pass, numerous trucks and outsized, overloaded vehicles transit the rest of the city. In mid 1999, a new Niva or Lada cost about $3,500, while a Volga was more and a Zhiguli less. Transac-

tion time to purchase and register a Russian vehicle is usually 7-10 working days. All imported vehicles should be new or in first-class mechanical condition to pass the strict Russian inspection requirements for vehicle registration: •Each automobile must have at least two headlights, each with high and low beams. Supplementary lights are permitted, including side lights and fog lights. Front parking lights must be white; rear lights must be red, not yellow or tinted. • Front and rear turn signals are required. Front turn signal must be white or orange; rear must be red or orange. • Each vehicle must be equipped with a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, and emergency warning reflector triangle. Russian gasoline comes in 82, 92, 95, and 98 octane. Unleaded gasoline is widely available, and diesel fuel, although available, is usually of poor quality. There is no need to remove the catalytic converter unless extensive travel is planned for outside the city, where unleaded fuel is not as widely available. Front-wheel- and four-wheel-drive vehicles offer the best handling in the Russian w in ter. The main streets in Moscow are regularly plowed; however, some side streets and housing complex parking lots may remain covered with snow and ice throughout the winter. The Russian government requires that cars be covered by third-party liability insurance. Ingosstrakh is an official Russian insurance company that offers third-party liability and comprehensive-collision coverage. Policies may be arranged within 2 days. Coverage is immediately invalidated if a driver is charged with drunk driving. The policy may require that covered vehicle damage be repaired in a Russian garage. 497

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Ingosstrakh rates are based on engine size, as measured by engine displacement. Insurance for sixand eight-cylinder cars costs more through Ingosstrakh than through a U.S. company. Ingosstrakh thirdparty liability insurance has two categories with different amounts of coverage. The average cost in 2000 for Ingosstrakh third-party liability insurance was $250 for an American car. United Services Officers Insurance Brokers, Ltd.,44 High Street, Winchester, Hants, England, offers policies, including third-party liability and comprehensive and collision coverage. Clements and Company, 1625 Eye Street, NW, Washington, D.C., has a policy that provides coverage for transportation of vehicles from anywhere in the world to Russia. Coverage includes comprehensive collision and protection against marine, fire, and theft loss. However, it does not cover third-party liability. Clements' rate structure is based on the U.S. Bluebook value of the car, and costs may be somewhat lower than those of Ingosstrakh.

Local The Moscow street plan is a wheel with the Kremlin and Red Square at the hub. Around the hub are three concentric circles-the Boulevard ring, the Garden ring, and the outer ring highway (MKAD). A fourth ring is under construction and should be completed by 2003. The extensive public transportation system consists of buses, streetcars, trolley buses, and the metro. This system covers the entire city, but riders should be prepared to contend with pushing and shoving. The prices for riding the public transport are constantly changing but remain inexpensive. The metro runs from about 0600 until 0100. Stations are clean and safe, and many are internationally famous for the beauty of their interior design. Taxis can be ordered from private companies. Private cars can be hailed on the street; however, the Regional Security Office advises 498

against this practice. Drivers are sometimes reluctant to stop late in the evening or in bad weather, and the price must be negotiated in advance. Always ride in the back seat and never engage a vehicle that already has another passenger.

Regional Rail and air transport networks are extensive, and service is adequate on both systems. First-class train fares are inexpensive. The overnight train to St. Petersburg is comfortable, but there is the danger of crime. The country's size makes flying to some of the more remote cities more convenient than train travel. Air traffic is sometimes unreliable due to delays caused by bad weather.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone service from Moscow to the U.S. and to most European cities is not up to Western standards, but is improving. Recently, U.S.-based telephone companies such as AT&T and Sprint have established directdial facilities in Moscow. International calls can be placed by using telephone credit cards made available by these companies. Bring a personal AT&T, Sprint, or MCI calling card for personal long-distance calls.

Radio and TV All media are in transition in Russia. There are now many joint venture radio stations, with Englishspeaking announcers who play America's top 40. For example, Radio Maximum, FM 103.7, is English speaking each morning from 6 am until 10 am. The station a i r s n e w s, w e a t h e r, b u s i n e s s reports, and contemporary rock music. Open Radio on both AM 918 kHz and FM 102.3 MHz rebroadcasts Voice of America (VOA) and BBC programs, plus business and local news programs of their own. Reception of these radio stations is excellent, even on the cheaper “jam boxes.” In addition, there is a wide range of excellent Russian radio stations on both AM and FM bands;

however, the Russian FM spectrum does not conform to the U.S. FM bands. To receive all Russian FM radio stations, purchase a Russian radio. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, a good short-wave radio is needed to receive the VOA and BBC broadcasts. The Russian system is SECAM. American NTSC TV's will usually receive a black-and-white video signal but will not receive audio. Bring or buy a multisystem set that will enable the viewing of Russian prog r a m s a n d c a b l e c h a n n e l s. A multisystem VCR is also helpful, as this enables one to watch Russian and U.S. videotapes.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals An increasing number of Western newspapers is available in Moscow. The International Herald Tribune, USA Today, Wall Street Journal, Time, Newsweek, and the Economist are available at tourist hotels. Western newspapers arrive in Moscow the day after publication. I n M o s c o w, t h e r e a r e s e v e r a l English-language newspapers for the foreign community. Most are free and include lists of upcoming cultural events, restaurant reviews, TV schedules, and general news of the city and community. All of these papers contain news of the foreign community and coverage and analysis of Russian news and events. Many publications are available for those who read Russian. In addition to the 2,000 newspapers and magazines that are published in Russian, there is a growing number of Western publications now available in Russian.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Moscow has three dental clinics with American-trained dentists and laboratory technicians. The Adven-

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Cities of the World tist Dental Clinic also has a Western-trained orthodontist on staff. When hospitalization is needed, Michurnskiy Kremlin Clinic is utilized for diagnostic and in-patient care. The facility offers the highest level of Russian medical care available and has a 24-hour ambulance service. In addition, the American Medical Center has opened a fullservice clinic on a membership basis. For cases requiring advanced diagnostic procedures, surgery, or complicated treatment not available at the Michurinskiy Kremlin Clinic, patients are evacuated to London, Frankfurt, Helsinki, or the U.S.

Community Health Although the standard of public cleanliness in Russia does not equal t h a t o f t h e U. S. a n d We s t e r n Europe, garbage collection is relatively dependable, and sewage is t r e a t e d a d e q u a t e l y. P u b l i c restrooms are usually unsanitary. Streets and public buildings are not clean, but conditions do not pose health hazards. Moscow's water may not be adequately treated, and drinking water should be boiled or filtered as a precaution. The Moscow area, as is the case in many parts of Russia, has the potential for environmental hazards. No serious detrimental health effects have been demonstrated from microwaves, NPPD, or nuclear fallout.

Preventive Measures During the winter, the air in Moscow, especially in offices and apartments, becomes very dry. This sometimes causes dry skin and aggravates respiratory problems. Dry mucous membranes of the respiratory system are vulnerable to infection and irritation. Respiratory infections are common during winter. Reliable food sources are plentiful in Moscow. These local markets and the import stores offer a wide variety of foods, including fresh, dried, and canned products.

Personal Health Measures_ All immunizations should be current, including diphtheria, hepatitis A, and hepatitis B. There are many reliable pharmacies in Moscow, and many medicines that require a prescription in the U. S. c a n b e o b t a i n e d o v e r t h e counter in Moscow. Many Western medications are available in these pharmacies, but not all, and sometimes there are shortages of previously available medications. The best advice is still to bring several months' supply of any medication that is taken regularly or needed for urgent situations. Several optical services have opened in Moscow, but bring an extra pair of glasses, plus the prescription. Those who wear contact lenses sometimes experience discomfort because of the dry, dusty Moscow air.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties Currently, Delta is the only American airline that regularly flies to Moscow and St. Petersburg. However, check the latest schedules to determine what carriers and stopover combinations are authorized. You can drive over the routes Prague-Warsaw-Brest-Moscow or Helsinki-St. Petersburg-Moscow with prior Russian Government approval. When driving by way of Warsaw, allow at least 6 weeks to arrange the Russian-Brest entrance visa and Czechoslovak and Polish transit visas. The overland trip should be undertaken only by experienced drivers accompanied by another passenger or by two cars traveling together. If you do not have a Russian driver's license, have a valid U.S. license and an international driver's license available. Gasoline is often difficult to find in Russia outside of major cities. Gas stations take cash only.

Road travel in Russia is not geared to high-speed, long-distance runs. Surfaces vary greatly, detours are frequent, and drivers often do not perform according to expectations. Heavy truck traffic makes passing extremely dangerous. Service facilities are seldom seen and never to be depended on for parts. A carefully planned pacing is the best approach. Currently, Delta flies into St. Petersburg. If transiting Eastern Europe en route, check for compliance with visa requirements and be aware that flight schedules between St. Petersburg and Eastern European cities often change without notice. If arriving by car, enter from Helsinki. Initial travel to Vladivostok is possible either by air via Moscow or across the Pacific on an American carrier. There are frequent transPacific flights from Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, and Los Angel e s t o To k y o a n d S e o u l , a n d biweekly flights in summer from Seattle to Vladivostok via Anchorage and Magadan. Travelers choosing to transit Tokyo must take a “bullet train” from Tokyo to Niigata (about 2 hours). Aeroflot flies twice weekly (Thursdays and Sundays) from Niigata to Vladivostok. Travelers transiting Seoul must catch the weekly (Sunday) Aeroflot flight from Seoul to Khabarovsk, then fly or take an overnight train from Khabarovsk to Vladivostok. U.S. citizens must possess a valid U.S. passport and appropriate visas for travel to or transit through Russia, whether by train, car, ship or airplane. Russian visas should be obtained from an embassy or consulate in the U.S. or abroad in advance of travel, as it is impossible to obtain a Russian entry visa upon arrival. Travelers who arrive without an entry visa are not permitted to enter Russia and face immediate expulsion by route of entry, at the traveler's expense. Errors in dates or other information on the visa may result in denial of entry, and it is helpful to 499

Russia have someone who reads Russian check the visa before departing the United States. Visas are valid for specific dates. An entry/exit visa reflects two dates written in the European style (day, month, year). The first date indicates the earliest day you may enter Russia; the second date indicates the last day you are permitted to be in Russia using that visa. Sometimes, the length of a visa may not correspond to the length of your planned stay. Before starting your trip, be sure your visa is valid for the dates of your planned entry and departure. Travelers who spend more than three days in the country must register their visa through their hotel or sponsor. It is helpful to make a photocopy of your visa in the event of loss, but note that a copy of your visa will not be sufficient for leaving the country, as Russian border officials always ask for the original. The office that issued your visa must approve amendment of a visa necessitated by illness or changes in travel plans. If travelers experience entry and exit visa problems they and/or their sponsor must contact the nearest Russian visa and passport office (OVIR) for assistance. Visitors who overstay their visa's validity, even for one day, or who neglect to register their visa will be prevented from leaving until this is corrected, which usually requires payment of a fee and results in a missed flight or other connection. Due to the possibility of random document checks by police, U.S. citizens should carry their original passports and registered visas with them at all times. Failure to provide proper documentation can result in detention and/or heavy fines. It is not necessary for travelers to have either entry or itinerary points in the Russian Federation printed on their visas. All travelers must continue to list on the visa application all areas to be visited and subsequently register with authorities at each destination. There are several closed cities 500

Cities of the World throughout Russia. Travelers who attempt to enter these cities without prior authorization are subject to fines, court hearings and/or deportation. Travelers should check with their sponsor, hotel or the nearest Russian visa and passport office before traveling to unfamiliar cities and towns. Any person applying for a visa for a stay of more than three months must present a certificate showing that he/she is HIV-negative. The certificate must contain the applicant's passport data, proposed length of stay in Russia, blood test results for HIV infection, including date of the test, signature of the doctor conducting the test, medical examination results, diagnostic series and seal of the hospital/medical organization. The HIV test must be administered no later than three months prior to travel, and the certificate must be in both Russian and English. Russia issues visas (with the exception of transit visas) based on support from a sponsor, usually an individual or local organization. Generally speaking, visas sponsored by Russian individuals are “guest” visas, and visas sponsored by tour agencies or hotels are “tourist” visas. Note that travelers who enter Russia on “tourist” visas, but who then reside with Russian individuals, may have difficulty registering their visas and may be required by Russian authorities to depart Russia sooner than they had planned. Student visas allow only for one entry. The sponsoring school is responsible for registering the visa and obtaining an exit visa. It is important to know who your sponsor is and how to contact him/her because Russian law requires that your sponsor apply on your behalf for replacement, extension or changes to your visa. Even if your visa was obtained through a travel agency in the United States, there is always a Russian legal entity whose name is indicated on the visa and who is considered to be your legal sponsor. The U.S. Embassy cannot act as your sponsor. U.S. citizens should contact their tour company

or hotel in advance for information on visa sponsorship. Persons holding both Russian and U.S. passports should be aware that if they enter Russia on a Russian passport that subsequently expires, Russian authorities will not permit them to depart using their U.S. passport. Since it may take several months to obtain a new Russian passport to satisfy Russian requirements for departure, travelers are advised to ensure that their Russian passports will be valid for the duration of their stay or that they travel on a valid U.S. passport and Russian visa. For additional information concerning entry and exit requirements, travelers may contact the Russian Embassy, Consular Section, 2641 Tunlaw Rd., NW, Washington, DC 20007, telephone (202) 939-8907, web site - http://russianembassy.org, or the Russian consulates in New York (tel. 212-348-0926/55), San Francisco (tel. 415-928-6878, 415-929-0862, 415-202-9800/01) or Seattle (tel. 206-728-1910). Russian customs laws and regulations are in a state of flux and are not consistently enforced. When arriving in Russia, travelers must declare all items of value on a customs form; the same form used during arriva l in Russ ia must be presented to customs officials at the time of departure. As of October 2001, travelers must declare all foreign currency they are bringing into Russia. Non-residents of Russia are prohibited from taking any cash money in currency other than the Russian ruble out of the country unless it has been declared upon arrival or wired, and supported by an appropriate document. Those with stamped declaration forms may exit Russia with a sum of foreign currency no greater than the sum declared upon entry. Lost or stolen customs forms should be reported to the Russian police, and a police report (spravka) should be obtained to present to customs officials upon departure. Often, however, the traveler will find that the lost customs declaration cannot be

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Cities of the World replaced. Travelers attempting to depart Russia with more money than was on their original customs form face possible detention, arrest, fines and confiscation of currency. Travelers should obtain receipts for all high-value items (including caviar) purchased in Russia. Any article that could appear old or as having cultural value to the customs service, including artwork, icons, samovars, rugs and antiques, must have a certificate indicating that it has no historical or cultural value. It is illegal to remove such items from Russia without this certificate. Certificates will not be granted for the export of articles that are more than 100 years old, no matter the value. These certificates may be obtained from the Russian Ministry of Culture. For further information, Russian speakers may call the Airport Sheremetyevo-2 Customs Information Service in Moscow at (7) (095) 578-2125/5782120, or, in St. Petersburg, the Ministry of Culture may be reached at 311-3496. Russia also has very strict rules on the importation of large quantities of medication, and of some medications regardless of quantity. It is advisable to contact the Russian Embassy or one of Russia's consulates for specific information regarding this or other customs regulations. Americans living in or visiting Russia are encouraged to register at the C o n s u l a r S e c t i o n o f t h e U. S. Embassy or at the U.S. consulate general closest to the region of Russia they will be visiting, and to obtain updated information on travel and security within Russia. The U.S. Embassy is located in Moscow at Novinskiy Bulvar 19/23; tel: (7) (095) 728-5000, fax: (7) (095) 728-5084. After-hours emergencies: (7) (095) 728-5000. Also, monitor the Embassy's web site at http:// www.usembassy.ru or e-mail at [email protected].

Pets All pets entering Russia must be accompanied by a certificate of good

health issued not more than 10 days prior to arrival. Veterinary care is available but technology is not very advanced. Animals with chronic problems probably should not be brought. All pets should be given distemper, hepatitis, leptospira bactrin, parvovirus, and rabies immunizations before entering the Russian Federation. A rabies and an immunization certification stating dates must be available for customs formalities. Check with your airline concerning regulations and how far in advance you need the shots given to your pet. There are veterinary clinics in Moscow that stock rabies, distemper, leptospira bactrin, and parvovirus vaccines for dogs and cats. Other pet medicines and supplies (worm pills, flea powder, vitamins, soap, etc.) should be brought with you.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The Russian unit of currency is the ruble, composed of 100 kopecks. The rate of exchange is relatively stable at 28-29 rubles to the dollar. Check local banks or hotels for the latest rate. Numerous banks and dollar exchange facilities are located throughout the city. The metric system of weights and measures is used.

Special Information The importation and use of Global Positioning Systems and other radio electronic devices are subject to special rules and regulations in Russia. In general, mapping and natural resource data collection activities associated with normal, commercial, and scientific collaboration may result in seizure of the equipment and/or arrest of the user. The penalty for using a GPS device in a manner which is determined to have compromised Russian national security can be a prison term of ten to twenty years. In December 1997, a U.S. citizen was imprisoned in Rostov-na-Donu for ten days on

charges of espionage for using a GPS device to check the efficacy of newly-installed telecommunications equipment. He and his company believed the GPS had been legally imported and were not aware that Russian authorities considered nearby government installations secret. No traveler should seek to import or use GPS equipment in any manner unless it has been properly and fully documented by the traveler in accordance with the instructions of the Glavgossvyaznadzor (Main Inspectorate in Communications) and is declared in full on a customs declaration at the point of entry to the Russian Federation. All radio electronic devices brought into Russia must have a certificate from Glavgossvyaznadzor (Main Inspectorate in Communications) of t h e R u s s i a n Fe d e r a t i o n . T h i s includes all emitting, transmitting, and receiving equipment such as GPS devices, cellular telephones, satellite telephones, and other kinds of radio electronic equipment. Excluded from the list are consumer electronic devices such as AM/FM radios. To obtain permission to bring in a cellular telephone, an agreement for service from a local cellular provider in Russia is required. That agreement and a letter of guarantee to pay for the cellular service must be sent to Glavgossvyaznadzor along with a request for permission to import the telephone. Based on these documents, a certificate is issued. This procedure is reported to take two weeks. Without a certificate, no cellular telephone can be brought into the country, regardless of whether or not it is meant for use in Russia. Permission for the above devices may also be required from the State Customs Committee of the Russian Federation. The State Customs Committee has stated that there are no restrictions on bringing laptop computers into the Russian Federation for personal use. The software, however, can be inspected upon departure; and some 501

Russia equipment and software have been confiscated because of the data contained in them, or due to software encryption, which is standard in many programs. For more information, contact: State Customs Committee of the Russian Federation, Russia 107842 Moscow. 1A Komsomolskaya Place, Telephone: 7-095-975-4070. Department for clearance of items for personal use: Telephone: 7-095-9754095, Glavgossvyaznadzor, Russia 1 1 7 9 0 9 M o s c o w, S e c o n d S p a s nailovkovsky 6, Telephone: 7-095238-6331, Fax: 7-095-238-5102.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 & 2 . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 7 . . . . . . . . . . Christmas (Orthodox) Jan. 25 . . . . . . . . . St. Tatiana Day Apr. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Laughter Day (Fool Day) Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter (Russian Orthodox) Mar. 8 . . . . . . . . . . International Women's Day May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 2 . . . . . . . . . . Spring Day May 9 . . . . . . . . . . Victory Day June 12 . . . . . . . . . Independence Day Nov. 7 . . . . . . . . . . Day of Consent and Reconciliation Dec. 12 . . . . . . . . . Constitution Day

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Baedeker, Karl. Baedeker's Handbook for Travelers: Russia. Arno Press: New York, 1914 (Reprinted 1970). Binyon, Michael. Life in Russia. Pantheon: 1984. 502

Cities of the World Daglieb, Robert. Coping with Russia. Basil Blackwell, Ltd: Oxford, 1985.

Daniels, Robert V. Russia: The Roots of Confrontation. Harvard University Press: Cambridge, 1985.

Fe s h b a c k , M u r r a y a n d F r e d Friendly, Jr. Ecocide in the USSR. Basic Books: New York, 1991.

Feis, Herbert. From Trust to Terror: Onset of the Cold War, 1945-1950. Norton: New York, 1970.

Kaiser, Robert. Russia: The People and the Power. Atheneum: New York, 1976.

Harriman, W Averell, and Elie Abel. Special Envoy to Churchill and Stalin, 1945-1946. Random House: New York, 1975.

Klose, Kevin. Russia and the Russians. Norton & Co.: 1984. Louis, Victor and Jennifer. The Complete Guide to the Soviet Union. St. Martin's Press: New York, 1980. Massier, Suzanne. Land of the Firebird. Simon & Schuster: New York, 1980. Plessix Gray, Francine du. Soviet Women Walking the Tightrope. Doubleday: New York, 1989. Pomer, Vladimir. Parting with Illusions. Avon Books: New York, 1990. Schecter, Jerrold. An American Family in Moscow. Little, Brown & Co.: Boston, 1975. Shipler, David K. Russia: Broken Idols, Solemn Dreams. Times Books: New York, 1983. Smith, Hedrick. The New Russians. Random House, Inc.: New York, 1990. Smith, Hedrick. The Russians. Quadrangle Books: New York, 1976. Willis, David. KLASS: Status and Privileges in the Soviet Union. St. Martin's Press: New York, 1985. Wilson, Edmund. To the Finland Station. Praeger: New York, 1968.

U.S.-Soviet/U.S.-Russian Relations Bishop, Donald G. The RooseveltLitvinov Agreements: The American View. Syracuse University Press: Syracuse, 1965. Bohlen, Charles E. Witness to History, 1929-1969. Norton: New York, 1973.

Horelick, Arnold L., ed. U.S.-Soviet Relations-The Next Phase. Cornell University Press: Ithaca and London, 1986. Kerman, George F. Soviet-American Relations, 1917-1920 (two volumes). Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1956-58. Kohler, Foy. Understanding the Russians: A Citizen's Primer. Harper & Row: New York, 1970. Newhouse, John. Cold Dawn: The Story of SALT. Holt, Rinehart & Winston, Inc.: New York, 1973. Ulam, Adam B. Expansion and Coexistence: The History of Soviet Foreign Policy, 1917-1973. Praeger: New York, 1974. ———. The Bolsheviks. Macmillan: New York, 1965.

Foreign Policy Edmonds, Robin. Soviet Foreign Policy, 1962-1973: The Paradox of Super Power. Oxford University Press: New York, 1977. Horelick, Arnold L. and Myron Rush. Strategic Power and Soviet Foreign Policy. University of Chicago Press: Chicago, 1966. Kerman, George E. Russia and the West Under Lenin and Stalin. Little, Brown & Co.: Boston, 1961.

The Old Regime Bialer, Seweryn. The Soviet Paradox: External Expansion, Internal Decline. Alfred A. Knopf New York, 1986. Billington, James H. The Icon and the Axe. Knoft: New York, 1966. Blum, Jerome. Lord and Peasant in Russia from the Ninth to the Nineteenth Century. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1961.

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Cities of the World Byrnes, Robert E, ed. After Brezhnev, Sources of Soviet Conduct in the 1980s. Indiana University Press: Bloomington, 1983. Pares, Bernard. A History of Russia. AMS Press: New York, 1965. Pipes, Richard. Russia Under the Old Regime. Scribner: New York, 1975. Venturi, Franco. Roots of Revolution. Grosset and Dunlap: New York, 1966.

The Revolutionary Period Cohen, Stephen E. Bukharin and the Bolshevik Revolution: A Political Biography, 1888-1938. Alfred A. Knopf. New York, 1973. Courtois, Stephane & others. The B l a ck B o o k o f C o m m u n i s m : Crimes, Terror, Repression. Harvard University. Deustcher, Isaac. The Pro phet Armed: Trotsky, 1879-1921, vol. 1; The Prophet Unarmed: Trotsky, 1 9 2 1 - 1 9 2 9 , v o l . 2 ; a n d Th e Prophet Outcast: Trotsky, 19291940, vol. 3. Random House: New York, 1965. Hunt, R. Carew. The Theory and Practice of Communism. Penguin Books: New York, 1963 Marx, Karl. The Communist Manifesto. Penguin Books: New York, 1968. Pipes, Richard. The Formation of the Soviet Union: Communism and Nationalism, 1917-1923. Harvard University Press: Cambridge, 1964. Reed, John. Ten Days That Shook the World. International Publishing Co.: New York, 1967. Rosenberg, William G., Ed. Bolshevik Visions: First Phase of the Cultural Revolution in Soviet Russia. Ardis Publishers: Ann Arbor, 1984. Salisbury, Harrison. Black Night, White Snow: Russia's Revolutions (19051917). Doubleday & Co.: New York, 1978. Trotsky, Leon. The Russian Revolution: The Overthrow of Tzarism and the Triumph of the Soviets. (Abbreviated edition). Doubleday & Co.: New York, 1959.

Tucker, Robert C., ed. The Lenin Anthology. W. W. Norton and Co.: New York, 1975.

Fainsod, Merle. How Russia Is Ruled. Harvard University Press: Cambridge, 1963.

Ulam, Adam. Dangerous Relations: The Soviet Union in World Politics, 1970-1982. Oxford University Press: New York, 1983.

Hingley, Ronald. The Russian Mind. Scribner: New York, 1977.

Wolfe, Bertram. Three Who Made a Revolution. Dell Publishing Company: New York, 1964. Zbarsky, Ilya & Samuel Hutchinson. Lenin's Embalmers. Harvill.

The Stalinist Period Carr, Edward H. A History of Soviet Russia (9 volumes). Macmillan: New York, 1953. Conquest, Robert. Kolyma. The Arctic Death Camp. Viking Press: New York, 1978. Conquest, Robert. The Great Terror: Stalin's Purge of the Thirties. Macmillan: New York, 1973. Djilas, Milovan. Conversations with Stalin. Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc.: New York, 1962. Ginsburg, Yevgenia. Journey into the Whirlwind. Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc.: 1975. Medvedev, Roy. Let History Judge: The Origins and Consequences of Stalinism. Random House: New York, 1973. Medvedev, Zhores. The Rise and Fall of T.D. Lysenko. Doubleday & Company: New York, 1971. Salisbury, Harrison. 900 Days: The Seige of Leningrad. Harper & Row: New York, 1969. Ulam, Sm. Stalin: The Man and His Era. Viking Press: New York, 1973.

Post-Stalin Period Barron, John. KGB: The Secret Work of Soviet Secret Agents. Reader's Digest Press: New York, 1974. Bloch, Sidney and Peter Reddaway. Psychiatric Terror. Basic Books, Inc.: New York, 1977. Brzezinski, Zbigniew. Ideology and Power in Soviet Politics. Greenwood Press, Inc.: Westport, 1976.

Katz, Zev, et al. Handbook of Major Soviet Nationalities. Free Press: New York, 1975. Medvedev, Roy and Zhores. A Question of Madness. Random House: New York, 1972. Medvedev, Roy and Zhores. Krushchev: The Years in Power. Columbia University Press: New York, 1976. S Chapiro, Leonard. Communist Party of the Soviet Union. Random House: New York, 1971. Talbott, Strobe, ed. Krushchev Remembers. Little, Brown & Co.: Boston, 1971. Tatu, Michael. Power in the Kremlin: From Krushchev to Kosygin. Viking Press: New York, 1969. Tokes, Rudolph L. Dissent in the USSR: Politics, Ideology, and People. Johns Hopkins University Press: Baltimore, 1975.

Russian Literature C h e k h o v, A n t o n . Th e C h e r r y Orchard. Grove Press, Inc.: New York, 1977. The Sea Gull. Harper & Row: New York, 1977. Chekov, Anton. Three Sisters. Macmillan: New York, 1969. Dostoyevsky, Fedor. Brothers Karamazov. Norton: New York, 1976. Dostoyevsky, Fedor. Crime and Punishment. Norton: New York, 1975. Dostoyevsky, Fedor. Notes from the Underground. T.Y. Crowell Co.: New York, 1975. Gogol, Nicolai. Dead Souls. Norton: New York, 1971. Lermontov. A Hero of Our Times. Penguin Books, New York, 1966. Tolstoy, L. Anna Karenina. Bantam Books, Inc.: New York, 1977. Tolstoy, L. War and Peace. Apollo Editions: New York, 1977. 503

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Turgenev. Fathers and Sons. Washington Square Press, Inc.: New York, 1977.

Pasternak, Boris. Dr. Zhivago. New American Library: New York, 1974.

Solzhenitsyn, A. One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich. Praeger: New York, 1963.

Soviet Literature

Sholokhov, T. Mikhail. And Quiet Flows the Don. Random House: New York, 1965.

Tertz, Abram. The Trial Begins. McCosh, Melvin, Bookseller: Excelsior, 1960.

Solzhenitsyn, A. August 1914. Farrar, Straus & Giroux, Inc.: New York, 1972.

Voinovich, Vladimir. The Ivankaid. Farrar, Straus & Giroux, Inc.: New York, 1977.

Solzhenitsyn, A. Cancer Ward. Dell Publishing Co.: New York, 1974.

Voinovich, Vladimir. The Life and Extraordinary Adventures of Private Ivan Chonkin. Farrar, Straus & Giroux, Inc.: New York, 1977.

Bulgakov, Mikhail. Heart of a Dog. Grove Press, Inc.: New York, 1968. Bulgakov, Mikhail. Master and Margarita. Grove Press, Inc.: New York, 1967.

504

Gorky, Maxim. Mother. Progress Publications: Chicago, 1976.

Solzhenitsyn, A. The First Circle. Bantam Books, Inc.: New York, 1976.

Kopelev, Lev. To Be Preserved Forever. J.B. Lippincott, Company: Philadelphia, 1977.

Solzhenitsyn, A. The Gulag Archipelago (3 volumes). Harper & Row: New York, 1974-77.

Voznesensky, Andrei. Antiworlds and the Fifth Ace. Schocken Books, Inc.: New York, 1973. Zamiatin, Eugene. We. Gregg Press, Inc.: Boston, 1975.

SAN MARINO The Most Serene Republic of San Marino

Major City: San Marino

INTRODUCTION SAN MARINO is located in northeastern Italy and is one of the world’s smallest and oldest republics. The picturesque landlocked country is surrounded entirely by Italy. The small nation is largely sustained by tourism. San Marino developed around a 9th century monastery, gradually acquiring the institutions of a small state. Its independence has been challenged by various popes, ruling families, and conquerors. However, its high and isolated position, well-trained army, and strategic insignificance permitted San Marino’s population to remain free from the control of the Holy Roman Emperor or the Pope. The Congress of Vienna recognized San Marino as a sovereign state in 1815. In 1862, San Marino entered into a friendship treaty and customs union with Italy. The treaty was renewed in 1939 and amended in 1971.

MAJOR CITY San Marino The town of San Marino is on the slopes near the summit of Mt. Titano (2,457 feet—named for the

famous Titans of Roman mythology). According to tradition, San Marino was named for St. Marinus, a 4th-century Dalmatian mason who was working at Rimini. He fled with others to Mt. Titano seeking to avoid Emperor Diocletian’s religious persecution of Christians. Over 4,000 people live in the town of San Marino, the capital of the country. Farming was once the main occupation, but it has been replaced by light manufacturing. High stone walls surround the town of San Marino. Tourism and money sent by citizens abroad are the main sources of income. The government gets revenue from selling stamps and coins, which are very popular internationally with collectors. Commercial activity is centered on Borgo Maggiore, 600 feet below the town of San Marino, where there is a weekly market and an annual livestock fair. The two areas are linked by a 1.5-mile winding road and by cable-car service. There is helicopter service to Rimini, Italy during the summer.

Recreation and Entertainment The traditional national sport of San Marino is archery, and pistol and rifle practice are also popular. San Marino lies about 6 miles from Italy’s Adriatic coast, making water sports popular as well. The Sammarinese also enjoy bocce (Italian lawn

bowling), soccer, baseball, tennis, and basketball. The country also annually sponsors a Grand Prix Formula One auto racing event, although it must be held across the border in Italy because there is no suitable racetrack site in San Marino. During the summer, some 20,000– 30,000 foreigners visit the country each day. Hotels and restaurants have been built in recent years to accommodate the visitors. The Palazzo del Valloni in the town of San Marino was rebuilt after falling victim to an accidental bombing by the British in World War II. The palace holds many of the nation’s cultural archives, including famous paintings by Guernico and Strozzi, and a collection of rare coins and medals. The neo-Gothic Palazzo del Governo was built in 1894, but most other large buildings are of recent date, although many monuments have been rebuilt in an earlier style. The 14th-century church of St. Francesco in the lower part of the town is itself an architectural treasure and houses more historic paintings. The Basilica del Santo, in which the skull of St. Marinus is kept, is a 19th-century neo-classical structure that stands over the site of San Marino’s original 5th-century church. The church of San Pietro next to the basilica houses the two505

San Marino niched rock that, as legend says, Sts. Marinus and Leo used as beds. The three old fortresses of Guiata (built in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 15th century), Fratta (13th century), and Montale (16th century) are situated on the three pinnacles of Mt. Titano. The vista from the three fortresses overlooks the Italian town of Rimini and the Adriatic Sea. The Crossbowmen’s Corps dates back to before 1295 and has defended San Marino’s independence throughout its history. The organization performs costumed demonstrations during the summer at the Cava dei Balestieri (Crossbowman’s Quarry), located by the cable car station. Public gardens near the quarry contain an outdoor sculpture gallery, with works by major contemporary sculptors such as Berti, Bini, Crocetti, and El Greco. The Museo Filatelico et Numismatico in Borgomaggiore shows every stamp and coin the republic has issued since 1877. The museum also houses Garibaldi memorabilia. San Marino provided sanctuary to Garibaldi and his associates from Italy during the 1840s.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate San Marino is Europe’s third-smallest country (after Vatican City and Monaco), with an area of only 23 square miles. San Marino is located entirely inside northeastern Italy close to the coast of the Adriatic Sea. The total area is only about 30% as large as Washington, D.C. The topography is lofty, as San Marino lies in the Apennine Mountains. The high cliffs of the Fratta tower not only provide scenic views of Italy but also of the Slovenian coastline across the Adriatic Sea. The climate is Mediterranean, with mild to cool winters and warm, sunny summers. Temperatures frequently fall below freezing in the winter and 506

Cities of the World reach a maximum of 79° F in the summer.

Population San Marino has an estimated 27,000 inhabitants. The Sammarinese are mostly of Italian ancestry, and most new immigration to the country is from Italy. The main destinations for those emigrating from the country are Italy, the United States, France, and Belgium. Roman Catholicism is the official religion and the faith of most residents. San Marino has nine parishes, all belonging to a single diocese. Italian is the official language, and many residents speak in the regional Romagna dialect.

Government San Marino has had its own statutes and governmental institutions since the 11th century. Today, legislative authority is vested in a unicameral parliament, the Great and General Council, consisting of 60 members who serve 5-year terms unless a majority votes to dissolve and calls for new elections. Executive authority is exercised by the 11-member Congress of State (cabinet), composed of nine members chosen by the Great and General Council and two captains regent. The captains regent are elected by the council from among its members for 6month terms. Their functions are largely honorary, although they also preside over meetings of the council and the congress and are empowered to propose legislation and to represent San Marino in its foreign relations. The captains regent are assisted by two secretaries of state (foreign affairs and internal affairs) and by several additional secretaries entrusted with specific portfolios. The Congress of State is composed of de facto executives who head the various administrative depart-

ments in the government. These posts are divided among the parties who form the coalition government. The Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs has come to assume many of the prerogatives of a prime minister. Membership in the Great and General Council is based on proportional representation and is selected from nominee lists submitted by the political parties. Voting is open to all adult citizens of the republic. Judicial authority is turned over in part to Italian magistrates in both criminal or civil cases. Minor cases are handled by a local conciliatory judge. Appeals go, in the first instance, to an Italian judge residing in Italy; the final court of review is the Council of Twelve—judges chosen for 6-year terms (four every 2 years) from among the members of the Great and General Council. For taxation purposes, the tiny republic is divided into in districts corresponding to the country’s Roman Ca thol ic pa ri shes. For administration, it is divided into nine sections, or “castles. “The head of each castle is an elected committee led by an official known as the captain of the castle. New captains are chosen on annual holidays, April 1 and October 1, when captains regent are installed in office. The flag is divided horizontally into two equal bands, sky blue below and white above, with the national coat of arms superimposed in the center. The coat of arms depicts the three historic tower fortresses of San Marino.

Arts, Science, Education The educational system is modeled on Italy’s. Primary education is compulsory for children ages 6–13, and San Marino has 14 elementary schools. Students pursue higher education at Italian universities. The literacy rate in San Marino for citizens ages 10 and older is 96%.

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Cities of the World

Commerce and Industry The Italian government pays an annual budget subsidy to San Marino under terms of the republic’s treaty with Italy. In return, San Marino relinquishes the following rights: free transit of impo rts through Italian ports; cultivation of agricultural products protected by Italian state monopoly; printing of bills and notes; operation of a commercial radio and television station; and establishment of a free trade zone. San Marino’s main industry (50% of the economy) is tourism, which provides for a high standard of living with relatively low taxes. Establishments related to tourism (hotels, restaurants, and shops) account for much of the country’s employment. Other economic activities in San Marino are farming and livestock raising, along with some light manufacturing. Livestock utilizes about 1,400 hectares (3,500 acres) and is devoted mostly to cows, oxen, and sheep. Cheesemaking is also important. The sale of coins and postage stamps to collectors from throughout the world provides a small amount of revenue.

Transportation There is regular bus service and seasonal helicopter service between San Marino and Rimini, Italy. An electrified railway once connected t h e t w o t o w n s, bu t wa s n e v e r repaired after sustaining damage in World War II.

Communications The telecommunications system is integrated into Italy’s. There are

three local FM radio stations and one television station receiving mostly foreign broadcasts. San Marino has two daily newspapers: Il Quatidiano Sammarinese, and San Marino Italia.

Health Public health institutions include the State Hospital, a dispensary for the poor, and a laboratory of hygiene and prevention. All citizens receive medical care fully subsidized by the government.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Travelers must enter San Marino from Italy. As there are no frontier formalities imposed, any person visiting San Marino must comply with Italian passport/visa regulations as follows: A passport is required. A visa is not required for tourist stays up to three months. For further information concerning entry requirements for Italy, travelers may contact the Embassy of Italy at 3000 Whitehaven Street NW, Washington, D.C. 20008. Tel: 202-612-4400 or via the Internet: http://www.italyemb.org, or the Italian Consulates General in Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Newark, New Orleans, New York, Philadelphia, or San Francisco. Those tourists planning to stay other than in hotels for more than one month should register with the local police station within eight days of arrival in Italy. Visitors to Italy may be required to demonstrate to the police upon arrival sufficient financial means to support themselves while in Italy. Credit

cards, ATM cards, traveler's checks, prepaid hotel/vacation vouchers, etc. can be used to show sufficient means. Currency is the Italia lira.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS January 1 . . . . . . .New Year’s Day January 6 . . . . . . .Epiphany February 5 . . . . . . .St. Agatha’s Day and liberation of San Marino March 25 . . . . . . . .Anniversary of the Arengo April 1 . . . . . . . . . .Investiture of CaptainsRegent (Spring) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .*Easter Monday May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .*Ascension July 28 . . . . . . . . . .Fall of Fascism August 14–16 . . . .Assumption and Bank Holiday September 3 . . . . .Anniversary of the Foundation of San Marino October 1 . . . . . . . .Investiture of CaptainsRegent (Fall) November 1 . . . . . .All Saints’ Day November 2 . . . . . .Commemoration of the Dead December 8 . . . . . .Immaculate Conception December 24–26 . .Christmas December 31 . . . . .New Year’s Eve *Variable

RECOMMENDED READING Catling, Christopher. Umbria, The Marches & San Marino. London: A & C Black, 1994.

507

SERBIA AND MONTENEGRO

Major City: Belgrade Other Cities: Bar, Cetinje, Kotor, Nikšié, Niš, Novi Sad, Podgorica, Priština, Subotica

INTRODUCTION On April 27, 1992, two of the former Yugoslav republics, SERBIA and MONTENEGRO, announced that they had joined together to form a new nation. This new nation, known as the “Federal Republic of Yugoslavia,” replaces the old six-member “Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia” which splintered apart after Slovenia, Croatia, and BosniaHerzegovina declared their independence in 1991 and early 1992. The new Yugoslavia, however, has not been formally recognized by the United States, the European Community, or the United Nations. Serbia and Montenegro became international outcasts for their role in the civil wars that devastated Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Serbian nationalist militias and the Serbian-controlled Yugoslav Federal Army were accused of massive atrocities against civilians, creating large prison camps, and forcing many non-Serbs to leave homes and villages in Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia through a policy of “ethnic cleansing.” The United Nations, the European Community, and the United States considered Serbia and Montenegro as the main aggressors in the conflicts in Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina and tried to punish Serbia and Mon-

tenegro in an attempt to end the f i g h t i n g. T h e U n i t e d N a t i o n s imposed sweeping international sanctions against these republics from 1992 until 1995. On November 21, 1995, the three presidents of Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia finally agreed to terms that would end the fighting in Bosnia after four years and an estimated 250,000 casualties. In March 1996 the International War Crimes Tribunal filed its first prosecution charges against Serbian soldiers accused of atrocities. Editor’s Note: Much of the information in this entry reflects conditions in the cities of Serbia and Montenegro prior to the outbreak of hostilities in Croatia and BosniaHerzegovina and the international sanctions imposed by the world community.

MAJOR CITY Belgrade Belgrade, capital of Serbia, is located at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube Rivers. Its altitude varies from 224 to 830 feet above sea level.

Belgrade has had a settlement since the time of the Celts in the fourth century B.C., although little evidence of that culture or of the subsequent Roman civilization remains. Few historical monuments before the late 18th century survive. Minimal evidence exists of the long period of Turkish domination, and only a few baroque buildings mark the pre-World War I Hapsburg influence. Belgrade thus lacks the atmosphere and Old World charm that is characteristic of Eastern European capitals such as Prague (Czech Republic) and Budapest (Hungary). Buildings in the central city are gray and somber, and contrast with a few modern concrete and glass high rises. Parks, treelined streets, and numerous sidewalk cafés lend color and charm, particularly in summer. The fascinating contrast between old and new is evidenced by the young, fashionable Belgraders and the fur-hatted peasant men in Serbian trousers and upturned sandals, with their dirndl-skirted wives in babushkas. They are seen browsing together along the shopping districts in the city’s center. Economic activity centers around government, trade, commerce, industry, and services. Factories within Belgrade produce machine tools, textiles, chemicals, agricul509

Serbia and Montenegro tural machinery, building materials, and electrical equipment. The adjacent agricultural area of the Vojvodina is one of Serbia and Montenegro’s richest. The climate in Belgrade is characteristically continental. The mean temperature in winter is 32°F (0°C), and in summer 70°F (21°C), with frequent highs in the 90s. Air pollution is particularly bad in Belgrade during the winter because of the low-grade coal used. Smog is heavy in low-lying areas near the main railway station. Cultural life is active in this city of about 1.2 million (2000 est.), although less so than in major world capitals. Belgraders have a deep interest in art, and enjoy a long season of opera, ballet, concerts, and drama. The taste for popular music, especially American jazz, is particularly evident among the young. Belgraders are avid movie-goers, and many Western European and American films are shown in the original version with Serbo-Croatian subtitles. Numerous art exhibits of varying quality are presented by contemporary artists.

Education The International School of Belgrade, a U.S. Government-supported institution, offers kindergarten through grades eight. The school was founded in 1947 and is accredite d by both the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools. A board of nine members, three appointed by the U.S. ambassador and six elected by parents from the international community, governs operations. Located in a suburban area of Belgrade, the International School has 14 classrooms, a science lab, computer lab, and a 8,000-volume library. An American-style curriculum is offered with French taught as a foreign language. Extracurricular activities include field trips, school newspaper, computers, and an afterschool activity and enrichment program. 510

Cities of the World The school year extends from late August to mid-June, with vacations in the fall, at Christmas, in late February, and in April.

of Belgrade. En route, it is pleasant to lunch at Grocka, where a good restaurant overlooks the surrounding vineyards.

The International School is located at Temisvarska 19, in a residential area about two miles from the U.S. Embassy. Information and applications for admission may be obtained by writing to: Director, International School of Belgrade, Department of State, Washington, DC 20520. The Belgrade telephone is (011)651-832.

A hydrofoil makes excursions down the Danube to Kladovo, where a dam was constructed jointly by Romania and Yugoslavia. The boat passes many interesting points, including some remains from Roman times and Smederevo Fort, and crosses the Iron Gate (Djerdap), which resembles an inland fjord.

International Nursery School conducts morning sessions for threeyear olds and afternoon sessions for four-year olds. Expatriate children in grades nine through 12 attend boarding schools in Italy, Germany, France, England, and Greece. Among the special educational opportunities available to Americans in Belgrade are the threemonth courses offered by Belgrade’s Institute and Center for Foreign Languages. Classes in Serbian are taught daily, and there are semiweekly classes in French, German, Italian, and Russian. Most foreign residents have found the courses excellent.

Recreation A number of excursions can be made in the vicinity of Belgrade. About 44 miles (71 kilometers) north of the city is Novi Sad, which has an interesting fortress overlooking the city. Inside the fortress is a hotel and a good restaurant, and a number of artists have workshops there. En route to Novi Sad is the village of Stara Pazova, where Slovak ladies wear colorful dress on Sundays. The wooded hill country known as Fruška Gora, a pleasant picnic area and site of more than a dozen monasteries (including the Hopovo), is also en route. Avala, a 2,000-foot hill, 12 miles south of Belgrade, offers a good view on a clear day. The ruins of a 15thcentury Serbian fort are on the Danube at Smederevo, 25 miles east

Serbia also has some interesting monasteries dating from the 13th to 15th centuries. Visits to the monasteries of Manasija, Ravanica, Hopovo, and Krusedol make interesting outings from Belgrade; those in south Serbia, such as Sopoéani, Studenica, Peé, Graèanica, and Deèani can be visited over a long weekend. The frescoes in these monasteries are world famous. Another fascinating day’s outing is a visit to the villages of Serbia’s primitive artists. Kovaèica and Uzdin may be included on the same drive. Oparié is also a village of artists; they are gracious and hospitable and often invite visitors into their homes. En route to Oparié, at Svetozarevo, is a gallery of primitive art, which has one of the finest collections in the country. Belgrade has beach areas, but health authorities warn against pollution. Boating is good on the Danube and Sava, although mooring facilities are limited. This area also has rivers suitable for kayaking. Ice skating rinks are available locally, and skates of good quality can be bought inexpensively. The hunter will find duck, geese, hare, partridge, pheasant, and fox in the immediate vicinity of Belgrade. Bear, wild boar, roebuck (European stag), wolf, and chamois are also in the area, but unless an invitation is extended for an official hunt, game fees are prohibitively high.

Serbia and Montenegro

Cities of the World There is fishing in the Danube, Sava, and smaller rivers nearby, but catches appear to be “fisherman’s luck.” Regular spinning tackle will do, although fly is more useful. Seasonal licenses are inexpensive. Soccer (European football) is the great spectator sport in Serbia and Montenegro. Belgrade has two large stadiums. Basketball, also popular, is played at several locations in the city. A small track just outside the city has horse and harness racing during summer. Some joggers have found acceptable routes within Belgrade, but the traffic and pollution, particularly during winter, have led most joggers to drive to Gypsy Island (commonly referred to by its Turkish name, Ada Ciganlija) about three miles away, where there is an excellent flat course relatively free of pollution.

Entertainment Movies, opera, ballet, concerts, and drama are offered in Belgrade. The opera and ballet seasons run from October through May or June; repertoires include both European and Slavic works. The International Film Festival (Fest) in February, the Belgrade Theater Festival of Avantgarde Drama (Bitef) in September, t h e B e l g r a d e M u s i c Fe s t i v a l (Bemus) in October, and the Belgrade Jazz Festival in November are outstanding events of the season. Orchestras and chamber music groups are excellent, and frequently p r e s e n t g u e s t c on d u c t o r s a n d soloists.

quently in major cities and, during the tourist season, in resort hotels. Several museums in Belgrade are worth visiting. Among the best are the National Museum, which has a varied collection of French impressionist works; the Fresco Gallery, which contains copies of frescoes found in Serbia’s early monasteries; and the Ethnographic Museum, with original examples of peasant costumes, implements, and musical instruments. Several 19th-century houses have been turned into fascinating smaller museums. The Military Museum in Kalemegdan Park is one of the finest in Europe. The American Club, located in the U.S. Embassy staff housing area, has a restaurant, two-lane bowling alley, lounge bar, the Elbrick Room for parties and videotape shows, and an auditorium for movies and other community events. Special events frequently are scheduled. Membership is open to the staffs of other diplomatic missions and to the American business community in Belgrade. The club shows feature films several evenings a week and holds a Saturday morning screening for children. Dining out in Belgrade restaurants is a popular social activity. The prices are reasonable and the food good, although variety is limited. S e v e r a l n i g h t cl u b s a n d d i s c o theques are available. A number of casinos are open only during the tourist season. The American Women’s Association (AWA) is an active group open to all American women in Belgrade. It sponsors programs of interest to the membership, and organizes children’s parties and fund-raising activities for charity.

Legitimate theater is offered regularly in Belgrade, with a repertoire that includes contemporary plays, classical productions, and musical comedy. These presentations are in Serbo-Croatian, so only those with a knowledge of this language can profitably take advantage of them.

OTHER CITIES

A professional folk song and dance group, the Kolo, performs regularly throughout the year in Belgrade, and other amateur and professional gr ou ps gi ve per f or man ces fre-

The city of BAR is one of Montenegro’s major ports. Situated on the Adriatic Sea, Bar is linked by rail with Belgrade and serves as a transport source for Serbian

imports and exports. The city offers a ferry service across the Adriatic Sea to Bari, Italy. Bar has a population over 33,000. The Montenegrin city of CETINJE is situated at the foot of Mt. Lovéen. During Montenegro’s brief period as an independent nation (1878–1918), Cetinje served as the capital city. The city has several attractions that are of interest to visitors. These attractions include a 16th-century monastery and a museum which houses the literary works and art collection of famous Montenegrin poet Petrovié Njegoš. The city has several small industries which produce household appliances and footwear. Cetinje has a population over 20,000. KOTOR is situated on Montenegro’s Adriatic Sea coast. The city, founded by the ancient Romans, has been occupied at various periods in history by Venetians, Hungarians, Turks, French, and Austrians. It is the oldest city in Montenegro. Kotor has many historic treasures, the most impressive of which is the Cathedral of St. Tryphon. This cathedral, along with most buildings in Kotor, was heavily damaged by a severe earthquake in 1979. Some repairs have been made, although the cathedral has not been completely restored. Kotor has an excellent Maritime Museum which contains excellent exhibits of arms collections, uniforms, navigational charts and instruments, as well as models of famous ships. The city’s population is over 21,000. The city of NIKŠIÉ, also located in Montenegro, was settled by the ancient Romans. For over 400 years, from 1455 to 1877, Nikšié was controlled by the Turks. Today, it is an industrial center which produces iron, steel, distilled beverages, and wood products. One of Europe’s largest bauxite mines is located near Nikšié. Following the end of World War II in 1945, Nikšié underwent massive renovations. Modern buildings, parks, and public works projects were constructed. The city is quite large and had a population of approximately 61,000 in 2002. 511

Serbia and Montenegro NIŠ has long been a geographically significant city. Situated on the Nišava River in Serbia, about 125 miles southeast of Belgrade, it is a road junction and industrial area. Because it lies at the convergence of several river systems, Niš is considered in a vital position between Central Europe and the Aegean Sea. The second-century Greek mathematician Ptolemy noted the importance of this area in his Guide to Geography. Constantine the Great (ca. 280–337) was born here. Niš withstood occupations by Bulgarians, Hungarians, and, especially, Turks. The Soviets assumed control in 1944. Despite its antiquity, this community has a modern look. Badly damaged in World War II, Niš underwent post-war construction. Most of the Turko-Byzantine style is gone; a fifth-century Byzantine crypt is among the landmarks. Activity here includes commerce, a university, and a spa just east of town for cardiovascular disease victims. Niš has a number of industrial enterprises which produce beer, household appliances, electronic materials, tobacco products, and textiles. The 2000 population of Niš was approximately 175,000. Near Niš is the thermal resort of Niska Banja. Brzi Brod has remains of a Roman town. NOVI SAD, the chief town of the Serbian autonomous province of Vojvodina, lies on the Danube in northern Serbia. It was founded in the 17th century, and became a royal free city of Austria-Hungary. It was here, early in the 19th century, that a vigorous Serbian literary revival was established. After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy in 1918, the transfer of Novi Sad to Yugoslavia was confirmed, under Hungarian protest, by the Treaty of Trainon. Novi Sad is a busy commercial city, making electrical equipment, porcelain, soap, and processed food, among other products. The Gallery of Matica Srpska contains 2,500 Serbian paintings. Nearby Fruska Gora is known for its wines. The city had a population of 180,000 in 2000. Current population figures are unavailable. 512

Cities of the World The city of PODGORICA is the capital of Montenegro and the republic’s largest city. In 1946, the city’s name was changed to Titograd in honor of the late Communist leader of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz Tito. In March 1992, city residents voted to change the city’s name back to Podgorica. Podgorica was founded in 1326 and has been occupied at various periods in history by Turks, Austrians, Italians, and Germans. The city was almost completely destroyed during World War II, but has been rebuilt into a modern city with parks, museums, and theaters. Podgorica had an estimated population of 118,000 in 2000. PRIŠTINA is a market center located 150 miles southeast of Belgrade. Capital of the Kosovo autonomous region in Serbia, it also has local textile, pharmaceutical, and food processing industries, and nearby mining. Priština served as capital of Serbia until the Turk conquest of 1389. Extensive building after World War II has altered the city’s oriental look. The Museum of Kosovo-Metohija contains an archaeology collection and ethnography division. Priština’s Albanian population is served by its own college (Priština Fakultet), and some Albanian-language newspapers and radio shows. A main tourist attraction is the Graèanica Monastery, southeast of the city proper. This structure was built by King Milutin in 1321 and is today regarded as an excellent example of Serbian architecture. A highlight of a visit to the monastery is the array of superb frescoes. In 2002, Priština had a population of approximately 194,000. The city of SUBOTICA, located less than 10 miles south of the Hungarian border, is the major city along the Se rbian frontier. Situated nearly 100 miles north of Belgrade, Subotica seems as much Hungarian as Serbian. Many of its citizens are of Hungarian descent. The city is the market center for the Baèka, an important agricultural district specializing in paprika. Its position on the Belgrade-Budapest railroad accounts for much of its strong

industrial base of fertilizer production, furniture manufacturing, and power generation. There are a number of educational institutions here, including advanced vocational schools. The area’s history dates to at least 1381. Subotica became a part of the former Yugoslavia in 1918 and was occupied by the Hungarians in World War II. The city had a population of 100,000 in 2000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Serbia and Montenegro have a combined area of 51,955 square miles (134,563 square kilometers), which is slightly larger than Alaska. The two combined republics are bordered by Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina on the west, Hungary on the north, Romania and Bulgaria on the east, and Greece, Albania, and Macedonia on the south. Serbia consists of rather mountainous terrain, particularly in northern regions of the republic. The northern autonomous province of Vojvodina, however, consists of rich fertile plains and is Serbia’s major agricultural region. Southeastern Serbia is composed of mountains and hills. Limestone ranges and basins characterize the terrain of eastern Serbia. Serbia’s northern region is watered by several rivers, including the Danube, Tisa, Sava, Drava, and Morava Rivers. The climate of Serbia is characterized by hot, humid summers and cold winters. The topography of Montenegro is mountainous and extremely rugged. Some fertile valleys and coastal lowlands exist in southern Montenegro. Montenegro is the home of Lake Scutari, the largest lake in the former Yugoslavia. Montenegro’s coastal region has an Adriatic climate with hot, dry summers and autumns. Further inland, Montenegro has relatively cold winters with heavy snowfall.

Serbia and Montenegro

Cities of the World

Population The combined population of Serbia and Montenegro was estimated at 10,677,000 in 2001. Ethnic Serbs and ethnic Montenegrins are the dominant groups in their respective republics. Serbs make up 63 percent of Serbia’s population. Fourteen percent of the people are of Albanian origin. Most Albanians are concentrated in Serbia’s Kosovo region. Hungarians comprise four percent of Serbia’s population and are centered in the northern region of Vojvodina. Serbo-Croatian and Albanian are the most common languages used in Serbia. Serbian Orthodox is the predominant religion, although Roman Catholics and several Protestant denominations are represented. Muslims are one of Serbia’s largest minorities and are concentrated in southern Serbia. In Montenegro, 62 percent of the population is Montenegrin. Muslim Slavs and ethnic Albanians make up roughly 25 percent of Montenegro’s population. Most Montenegrins speak Serbo-Croatian, although Albanian is also spoken. Serbian Orthodox is Montenegro’s dominant religion. However, Muslims and Roman Catholics are wellrepresented. In 1997, Serbians had a life expectancy at birth of 69 years for males and 75 years for females. Montenegrins had a life expectancy at birth of 71 years for males and 79 years for females.

Government The Constitution of Serbia and Montenegro, adopted on April 27, 1992, calls for the creation of a bicameral Federal Assembly or Parliament (Savezna Skupština). The C h a m b e r o f C i t i z e n s ( Ve c e Gradana) has 138 members, 60 members elected for a four year term in single seat-constituencies and 78 members by proportional representation. In the Chamber of Citizens 108 members are elected from Serbs and 30 members elected from Montenegro. The Council of

the Republics (Vece Republika) has 40 popularly elected members, 20 from Serbia and 10 from Montenegro. Members of the Federal Assembly are responsible for electing a federal president. The federal president then chooses a prime minister who cannot be from the same republic as himself. The Federal Assembly must approve the president’s choice for prime minister. In March 2002, Serbia and Montenegro signed the agreement that established the loose federation between the two autonomous entities. The presidency, defense and foreign affairs will remain as a federal concerns, however, each region will retain separate currencies and customs. There are over 20 different political parties in Serbia and Montenegro, but the top two are Demokratska Stranka Srbije (The Democratic Party of Serbia - moderate nationalist) and Socialisticka Partija Srbije (The Serb Socialist Party - authoritarian). The flag of Serbia and Montenegro consists of three horizontal bands of blue, white, and red.

Commerce and Industry On May 27, 1992, the European Community (EC) imposed a trade embargo on Serbia and Montenegro as punishment for the country’s role in the ethnic conflicts in neighboring Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. All imports and exports were halted between EC member nations and Serbia and Montenegro. This embargo was particularly painful because over one-half of Serbia and Montenegro’s commerce was with EC members. The United Nations launched its own trade embargo on May 30, 1992. The UN ban included the freezing of all of Serbia and Montenegro’s foreign assets, an international embargo on all exports to Serbia and Montenegro except for food and medical supplies, a ban on imported goods made in Serbia and Montenegro, and a

suspension of all foreign investment and commercial contact with Serbia and Montenegro. On November 16, the United Nations authorized a naval blockade of Serbia and Montenegro in an effort to prevent any violations of the trade embargo imposed on May 30. When peace returned to the region, the sanctions were lifted in 1995. The economic sanctions by the European Community and the United Nations had a devastating effect on the economy of Serbia and Montenegro. The lack of imported raw materials and the loss of markets for exported goods forced many industries to shut down, causing massive unemployment for hundreds of thousands of workers. Medical supplies are also in short supply despite the embargo’s exemption of these items. Hyperinflation caused the prices of most goods and services to soar in 1994, and formal economic activity came to a virtual halt. Serbia’s economy is heavily dependent on both agricultural and industrial production. The fertile plains of Vojvodina produce 80 percent of the cereal production of the former Yugoslavia and most of the cotton, oilseeds, and chicory. Vojvodina also produces fodder crops to support intensive beef and dairy production. Serbia proper, although hilly, has a long growing season and produces fruit, grapes, and cereals. Kosovo province produces fruits, vegetables, tobacco, and a small amount of cereals. The mountainous pastures of Kosovo support goat and sheep husbandry. Serbia has a well-developed industrial base, with most heavy industry concentrated in and around Belgrade. Serbian industries produce wood products, steel, textiles, and cement. Serbia is rich in copper, chrome, antimony, coal, lead, and silver. However, Serbia’s mining industry is underdeveloped. Montenegro is a very poor, underdeveloped republic. Most of the economy is dependent upon the raising of goats, pigs, and sheep. Montenegro has only a small agriculture sector, 513

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mostly near the coast, where olives, citrus fruits, grapes, and rice are grown. Montenegro had a burgeoning tourism industry, but it was halted due to the conflicts in Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Transportation Serbia and Montenegro have a total roadway network of 28,583 miles (46,019 kilometers). Of this total, 16,739 miles (26,949 kilometers) are paved. Highways connect Belgrade with Ljubljana (Slovenia), Zagreb (Croatia), Skopje (Macedonia), and the Serbian city of Niš, and Serbia’s southern neighbor, Greece. Belgrade’s international airport is located 11 miles (19 kilometers) west of the city. Serbia and Montenegro’s official airline, JAT, has been prohibited from landing in the United States and many international cities due to the United Nations sanctions. Serbia and Montenegro has railway links with many cities in Europe and the former Yugoslav republics. Rail lines connect Belgrade with the cities of Vienna, Munich, London, Athens, Paris, Thessaloniki, and Zürich. Zagreb (Croatia), Sarajevo (Bosnia-Herzegovina), Skopje (Macedonia), and Ljubljana (Slovenia) have rail transportation links with Belgrade. One rail line offers a scenic trip through Montenegro. Most train transportation from Serbia and Montenegro has been suspended due to hostilities in the region.

Communications Serbia and Montenegro has an adequate telecommunications system. Long-distance and international calls can be placed at hotels, railway stations, post offices, and airports. Only one English-language newspaper, Newsday, is published in Belgrade. All other newspapers and periodicals are published in SerboCroatian or Albanian. 514

Street in Belgrade, Serbia

Several radio and television broadcasting services are located in Serbia. Radiotelevizija Beograd serves Belgrade and the surrounding area. Programs are broadcast in SerboCroatian. The northern province of Vojvodina is served by Radiotelevizija Novi Sad, which broadcasts programming in Serbo-Croatian, Slovak, Romanian, Hungarian, and Ruthenian. The city of Priština, located in Kosovo province, is the home of Radiotelevizija Priština. Radiotelevizija Priština broadcasts in Albanian, Serbo-Croatian, Romany, and Turkish. Montenegro has its own radio and television broadcasting network, Radiotelevizija Crne Gore. All programming on

© Paul Almasy/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Radiotelevizija Crne Gore is broadcast in Serbo-Croatian.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS The Department of State warns U.S. citizens against travel to the Serbia and Kosovo regions of Serbia-Montenegro. Since the U.S. Embassy in Belgrade suspended operations as of March 23, 1999, U.S. citizens who plan on travelling to Serbia-Montenegro despite this Travel Warning are encouraged to register at the U.S. Embassy in Budapest, Hun-

Serbia and Montenegro

Cities of the World gary, which is located at Szabadsag Ter 12, Budapest 1054; telephone [36] (1) 475-4400. U.S. citizens who plan on travelling to Kosovo should register at the U.S. office in Pristina by telephone (873-762-029-525). However, the U.S. office in Pristina cannot provide general consular services such as passport and visa issuance. Visas are not required for entry into Kosovo.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 &2. . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 7. . . . . . . . . . . Christmas (Orthodox) March 28 . . . . . . . . State Day (Observed in Serbia only)

Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter* Apr/May . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Apr. 27 . . . . . . . . . Constitution Day May 1 & 2. . . . . . . May Day July 7 . . . . . . . . . . Serbian Uprising Day (Serbia only) *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: B o e h m , C h r i s t o p h e r. B l o o d Revenge: The Enactment & Man-

agement of Conflict in Montenegro & Other Tribal Societies. Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1986. Browning, C.R. Fateful Months. rev. ed. New York: Holmes & Meier, 1991. Dragnich, Alex N., and Slavko Todorovich. The Saga of Kosovo: Focus on Serbian-Albanian Relationships. Brooklyn, NY: Brooklyn College Press, 1985. Laffan, R.G. The Serbs: Guardians of the Gate. New York: Dorset Press, 1990. Treadway, John D. The Falcon & the Eagle: Montenegro & AustriaHungary, 1908–1914. West Lafayette, IN: Purdue University Press, 1983.

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SLOVAKIA The Slovak Republic

Major Cities: Bratislava, Košice Other Cities: Banská Bystrica, Piešt’any

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Slovakia. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Slovakia, the former Czechoslovak i a ' s l e s s g l a m o r o u s p a r t n e r, emerged disordered and fatigued after the “Velvet Revolution” of 1989. The Great Moravian Empire, formed in 83 3, included a ll of present Central and West Slovakia, the Czech Republic, and parts of neighboring Poland, Hungary, and Germany. In 907, the empire collapsed as a result of the political intrigues, and by 1018 the whole of Slovakia was annexed by Hungary and remained so for the next 900 years. When the Turks overran Hungary in the early 16th century, the Hungarian capital moved from Buda to Bratislava.

The formation of the dual AustroHungarian monarchy in 1867 gave Hungary autonomy in domestic matters, and a policy of enforced Magyarization (“Hungarianization”) was instituted. Slovak intellectuals cultivated closer cultural ties with the Czechs, who were themselves dominated by the Austrians. The concept of a single Czecho-Slovakian unit was born for political purposes, and, after the Austro-Hungarian defeat in WWI, Slovakia, Ruthenia, Bohemia, and Moravia united as Czechoslovakia. After the 1938 Munich agreement that forced Czechoslovakia to cede territory to Germany, Slovakia declared its autonomy within a federal state. A second Czechoslovakia was established after the war, but after the communist takeover in February 1948, the administration once again became centralized in Prague. The fall of communism in Czechoslovakia during 1989 led to a resurgence of Slovak nationalism. In June 1992, the Slovak parliament voted to declare sovereignty and the federation dissolved peacefully on January 1, 1993. Although it is now holding its own in a rebuilding Eastern block, there is a refreshing absence of Praguestyle glitz and glamour. The capital,

Bratislava, is small and cheerful with a surprisingly accomplished cultural life; the High Tatras are as rugged a range as any in Eastern Europe and the peasant traditions of rural Slovakia are still evident in the villages. You will find the Slovaks to be extremely warm, friendly people prepared to go out of their way to help you enjoy their country.

MAJOR CITIES Bratislava The capital of the Slovak Republic, Bratislava, lies on both banks of the Danube River at the foothills of the Low Carpathian Mountains. Its southern district borders on the Hungarian Republic and Austria shares its western border. Vienna is 65 kilometers from Bratislava, Budapest 200 kilometers, and Prague 321 kilometers. The city has a population of 451,616 inhabitants. Archaeological finds support evidence of man's presence on the territory of Bratislava since ancient times. The Celts were present during the 4th and 5th centuries. The Slavs arrived in the area during the 5th and 6th centuries. In A.D. 833 the Great Moravian Empire came into being, and Bratislava is first 517

Slovakia mentioned in historical sources in A.D. 907 as the city of “Brezalzuspurc.” During the 10th and 11th centuries, Bratislava gradually became the seat of government for the Hungarian State and was largely under Hungarian influence. Its advantageous position helped Bratislava to become the capital of the Habsburg part of Hungary in 1536. As the capital, Bratislava was the coronation town for the reigning Hungarian kings and queens. St. Martin's cathedral was used as a coronation church until 1830 and during this period of almost 300 years, 11 rulers (including Maria Theresa) and eight royal consorts were crowned there. The period of the late 18th and first half of the 19th century is known as the Slovak National Revival and saw significant historic events and movements toward a new Slovak identity. Important among them were the first efforts to codify literary Slovak made by the Bratislava Seminary through its leader, Anton Bernolak. Finally, Ludovit Stur, the leading personality of the Slovak national movement, succeeded in codifying the modern Slovak language. The 1830s were marked by the development of manufacturing in Bratislava and the introduction of modern transport. Steamships, also capable of sailing upstream, appeared on the Danube. In 1840, horse-drawn trains ran on rails as far as Trnava and later also to Sered. Ten years later, passengers traveled by train to Pest (now part of Budapest). On the first of January 1919, Bratislava became a part of the newlyconstituted Czecho-Slovakia and was duly proclaimed the capital of Slovakia. It began to use the name of Bratislava instead of Pressburg, its name under the Austro-Hungarian Empire. On March 14, 1939, at the same time that Bohemia and Moravia became a protectorate incorporated into the German Reich, Slovakia declared itself independent, and the Slovak Parliament elected Jozef Tiso, a Catholic priest, as its president. During the 518

Cities of the World following six years, Slovakia existed as a puppet state of Hitter’s Germ a n y. A c o d e x t h a t s h a r p l y discriminated against its Jewish population was instituted, and subsequently thousands of Jews were deported to extermination camps. On August 29, 1944, Slovak resistance fighters began an insurrection, the Slovak National Uprising, against the pro-Nazi government in Bratislava and the German troops stationed in Slovakia. The uprising, centered in the town of Banska Bystrica, lasted two months before it was put down at a terrible cost in lives and property. An American mission was sent to aid the uprising most of its members were captured by the Nazis in December 1944. In early 1945, Soviet Forces broke through German defenses, and on April 4th they reached Bratislava. After 1945, but particularly in the 1960s, Bratislava became the center of numerous independence efforts of the Slovak people. These resulted in the signing of the Constitutional Law on the Czecho-Slovak Federation in 1968 at the Bratislava Castle. However, in the wake of the restoration of totalitarian rule that followed the 1968 Soviet-led invasion, Slovakia was left with a government and parliament whose real powers were severely limited. After the 1989 Revolution, discussions with Czech and Slovak officials were instituted to find a mutually acceptable formula that would divide powers between the two states but maintain a common Czechoslovak state. Finally, on January 1, 1993 Slovakia was declared a free and independ e n t s t a t e. A f t e r c e n t u r i e s o f Hungarian and Soviet repression, Bratislava today is a dynamic city with a youthful population and a rich, picturesque history. There is a general air of modernization taking place. Individuals, however, are impatient for visible improvements in their personal standard of living. Reconstruction and renovation of old buildings in the historical district are a part of daily life here. The city will have to deal with major problems like local, public, and personal transportation, parking lots,

and housing construction. In spite of all these temporary inconveniences, Bratislava is a pleasant place to live in.

Utilities Slovakia has dependable electricity and water. The voltage for electricity is 220v. Small appliances using 220v are available locally.

Food Bratislava has several grocery stores whose stocks vary according to the season, but it is possible to find most things locally. During the spring and summer there are several large markets, and many small vegetable and fruit stands and two markets in the city where it is possible to find locally produced fruits and vegetables. It is common to see Western European products available all over these places, even in the small grocery stores. Bread and sweets abound in the small shops and are very good. Cosmetics are available on the local market. Additionally, fresh foods can be purchased in Hainburg, Austria across the border all year round at high prices.

Clothing Apparel worn in Bratislava is much l ik e t h a t i n t h e No r t h e a s t e r n United States. Most Slovaks dress conservatively. The younger people dress in a more avant-garde style. “Informal” is the most widely used term for social functions and generally means a suit for men and a cocktail dress or suit for women. Wardrobes should include warm w i n t e r c l o t h i n g : a war m c o a t , scarves, hats, gloves, and lowheeled warm boots. Shops are opening in Bratislava regularly and provide a reas onabl e s el ec tion of Western European clothing and locally manufactured clothing.

Supplies and Services European manufactured toiletries are available in Bratislava in ample supply at Baumax (hardware store), Tesco (department store), and other

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Cities of the World shops such as Billa, Dominos, and smaller shops all over Slovakia. American brand-names are more unusual, and cosmetics, while available, are limited in variety. It is recommended to include often used cosmetics, feminine and personal supplies, and medicines, in your household goods. Cigarettes and name-brand liquors are available in the duty free stores and in local shops at reasonable prices. Good quality household cleaning supplies are available in Tesco, and cleaning supplies stores (drogerias) as well as in many smaller shops. Bring U.S. postage stamps. Parents with babies should bring everything required if they prefer certain American manufactured items. There is a large IKEA in Bratislava which stocks good quality children's furniture and baby furniture. The baby store “Super G Market” also has a good selection of furniture and clothes for babies. European manufactured baby foods are in ready supply and good quality. Dinos and Maxa are food warehouses, where you can purchase in bulk, dairy products, toiletries, beverages, canned and frozen food. Paper napkins, paper plates, plastic cups can be purchased locally. Beautiful glassware and crystal is available locally. Generally, basic supplies and services are inexpensive when compared to the United States. Service can be slow and sometimes spare parts and materials are difficult to find. Local beauty shops located in the large hotels. Haircuts, perms, treatments, etc. are generally less expensive than in the U.S. Good quality European hair products are used, but methods and techniques used by hairdressers may differ somewhat from those in the West. Facials, manicures, pedicures, and massages are plentiful, good quality, and at low prices.

Good quality fabrics for clothing are manufactured in Slovakia and are available at very reasonable prices. Men's suits can be tailor-made at very good prices. Shoes can be handmade locally. Shoe repair is available and at low cost, although quality varies. Currently there are three drycleaning stores in town.

Domestic Help Help for cleaning, cooking, shopping, childcare, gardening, household repairs, driving, etc., is widely available. Payment and fees are negotiable, and are very reasonable compared to prices in the West. The employer must be willing to train the employee so that the work can meet his or her standards. English-speaking help is hard to find. Most Slovaks are not familiar with Western appliances, or cleaning products, so care should be taken to train employees in their use. If possible, try to retain the domestics of your predecessor, as they will be used to dealing with Americans, and training will be easier. Household help costs between 60 and 80 SK per hour in Bratislava, less in surrounding towns. Slovak insurance for social security and taxes costs about 38% of the earned salary. Some employers agree to pay the salary plus the monthly insurance costs. There are two agencies in Bratislava that find and train domestic help, but the prices are usually higher than hiring an employee directly. Other good resources for finding domestic help are the International Women's Club of Bratislava or the expat community.

There are several international churches conducting services in English, including Catholic, Lutheran, Baptist, Apostolic, and the Church of the Brethren.

Education The International School of Bratislava, a US-accredited private institution which opened in September 1994, offers English-language instruction for students from five years through 15 years of age, as well as a professionally developed and staffed preschool for children ages three and four. The school operates under the control of Quality Schools International, a private nonprofit organization, operating schools in 13 Newly Independent States. Children who reach the age of five before October 31 of the enrollment year are eligible for kindergarten. The school has 125 students enrolled for 1998 - 99. The school term is from early September to mid-June. The curriculum includes English, mathematics, cultural studies, science, art, music, drama, foreign languages, and physical education. Special activities include dance, gymnastics, and swimming. The school is located within a large children's center called the Iuventa. The area used by the school includes seven classrooms, a library, and a cafeteria. The sport facilities include soccer and baseball playing fields, a swimming pool, an outdoor basketball court, and a playground area.

Religious Activities

The British International School is a non-U.S. accredited private school, which was opened on September 1997. The school offers English-language instruction for students from six years through 15 years of age, and has a kindergarten from threefive years old. Currently the school has 80 students from different nationalities.

Slovakia's population is largely Roman Catholic and there are many Catholic services conducted in Slovak in Bratislava. The next largest denomination is Lutheran. Several other Protestant denominations as well as Jewish and Eastern Orthodox congregations are also present.

The British International School term is from early September to mid-June. The curriculum includes mathematics, art, music, cultural studies, gymnastics, and swimming. The school is located in Karlovy Vez. This school has a computer labora519

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tory, a cafeteria, and includes five classrooms. Some American parents have placed their children in Slovak schools. Slovak kindergartens and elementary schools are accommodating to American children wishing to attend; almost every district in Bratislava has a kindergarten and an elementary school. They offer a sound academic curriculum, most have music and sports programs, and English is being taught starting in the first grade in many schools. The experience of attending a local school can be rewarding if children are prepared to endure the time necessary and the extra work involved in learning the Slovak language.

Special Educational Opportunities City University of Washington State, USA, opened a campus in Trencin, Slovakia three years ago. Instruction is in English and an undergraduate program leading specifically to a Bachelor of Science degree in business administration as well as a graduate-study program leading to a Master's Degree in business administration (MBA) is offered. Comenius University has a program for teaching fore i g n e r s t h e S l o v a k l a n g u a g e. Private language tutoring is widely accessible. The University of Maryland European Division offers a variety of courses in Vienna. Their offerings include many weekend seminars of historical and cultural interest.

Sports There are many hiking paths a r o u n d B r a t i s l av a , w h i ch a r e heavily used by people out for a stroll, hikers, and runners. Cycling is popular here, and there are some bike paths where children can ride safely. Outdoor tennis courts have become more abundant here, and several Americans have purchased weekly time on a court for the May October season at a very reasonable price. Indoor courts are more difficult to find, but a few exist and are available during the winter. A nine520

Aerial view of Bratislava, Slovakia

hole golf course opened near Bratislava in October 1995, with future plans to construct a complete 18hole golf course. There are several indoor pools offering swimming all year round. Some haved used the fitness rooms of two hotels in town. There are fitness centers and gymnasiums available at various locations around the city. There is a Hash House Harriers running group, which has a marathon twice a year. Aerobic lessons are becoming popular. Classes are given in Slovak and occasionally in English. Both cross-country and downhill skiing is possible all over Slovakia and in locations close to Bratislava. The Carpathian Mountains provide the full range of possibilities with high, steep runs in the Tatras and Fatras, and gentle sloping runs in the low Carpathians. The most popular spectator sports are soccer and ice hockey.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Slovakia is a beautiful country to visit, although knowledge of the language greatly facilitates getting around, as many Slovaks do not speak English. There are many lakes for boating (motor boats are

© Adam Woolfitt/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

forbidden) and swimming, mountain streams and large rivers to hike along, and numerous fascinating caves to explore. Slovakia has more castles per capita than any other country in Europe. Other historical monuments also abound. Entire towns are constructed of traditional wooden houses, and cathedrals are filled with treasures from the past.

Entertainment The Slovak National Theater presents a full range of high quality opera and ballet performances annually. The Slovak Symphony offers an annual subscription or you can buy tickets on an individual basis. Their performances are excellent. The summer months in Bratislava are alive with the concerts of the well-known series, “Cultural Summer,” being performed all around the city. There are several movie theaters in Bratislava, and most popular American films are in English.

Social Activities Many opportunities exist in Bratislava to make contact with the expatriate community. Embassy personnel, business representatives and journalists often entertain each other at informal dinners, receptions, and theater performances.

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Cities of the World The Bratislava American Chamber of Commerce also provides a venue for economic and commercial personnel to pursue business contacts. The International Women's Club offers numerous activities and opportunities for foreign women living in Bratislava to get acquainted with each other and with Englishspeaking Slovak women. Various interest groups within the club provide opportunities for women to tour cultural facilities, participate in arts and crafts-making, practice foreign language skills, and participate in a variety of sports and other activities. In general, social relationships with Slovak citizens are not difficult to establish, particularly if one possesses the language skills. The Slovaks are very warm and receptive to someone reaching out to make friends.

Special Information Americans are popular and generally welcomed by all segments of society in Bratislava. There is a low incidence of violent crime; however, reasonable precautions should be taken. Incidents of pickpockets are increasingly frequent in the downtown and other tourist areas.

Treaty of Trianon in 1920. Landmarks in Košice include the 14th-century Franciscan monastery and church, the Gothic Cathedral of St. Elizabeth (built in the 14th and 15th centuries). It is the most outstanding historical building in all of Slovakia. Other buildings of prominence are the 18th-century town hall, an Ursuline convent, the Fo r g á c s Pa l a c e, a n d a G o t h i c Dominican church and monastery. The city’s several museums house collections of technology, historical and prehistorical artifacts, feudalism, coins, and records of the Communist movement in East Slovakia. The State Philharmonic Orchestra makes Košice its home, and here also are located the Municipal Theater and the Hungarian Theater. Other city attractions are the botanical gardens and a large sports arena. Skiing is popular at nearby Jahodná. Krasna Horka, 40 miles from Košice, has an interesting medieval castle which was later rebuilt in Renaissance style and is a museum today. In Jasov, 22 miles away, there is a medieval monastery and nearby stalactite caverns. Presov is known for its fortification ruins.

Košice

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Košice is located in the East Slovak Region on the Hornád River, near the borders of Hungary and the Ukraine. A major market for the surrounding agricultural area and a transportation center, Košice has a population of 235,000. Košice is also a principal industrial center whose modern factories produce steel, machinery, petroleum, cement, and ceramics. Other industries include breweries, distilleries, and food-processing plants.

BANSKÁ BYSTRICA, site of the Slovak National Uprising in August 1944, is a city of 78,300 residents in the Central Slovak Region. This historical town lies on the Hron River, about 100 miles northeast of Bratislava, and is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Slovakia. It prospered in the Middle Ages from the mining of silver and copper. The oldest of Banská Bystrica’s many remaining medieval buildings is a Romanesque church which dates to the 13th century. A castle, surrounded by fortifications, dominates the main square. Other Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance buildings, most of which are in the square, are now preserved as museums and galleries. During World War II, many of Banská

The city was originally a fortress town, was chartered in 1241, and was an important trade center by the Middle Ages. Frequently occupied by Austrian, Hungarian, and Turkish forces, Košice passed from Hungary to Czechoslovakia via the

Bystrica’s men and women lost their lives in brutal battles with occupying forces, and tributes to their resistance are seen throughout the city in monuments and memorial plaques. PIEŠT’ANY, situated in the picturesque valley of the River Váh, 45 miles north of Bratislava, is Europe’s foremost center for the treatment of inflammatory joint diseases. The first mention of its thermal springs dates from early in the 12th century, and for hundreds of years it has enjoyed a reputation for arthritic treatment and orthopedic rehabilitation. Modern medical treatments have further enhanced its renown. So popular is this spa that there is an express bus service to Piešt’any from Vienna. The city, with a population of 31,000, offers a busy cultural life and a wide variety of opportunities for recreation. There are concerts, theatrical events, and art exhibitions, and a music festival sponsored annually in June and July. An international motorcycle race is also held in Piešt’any.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Slovakia, located in the very heart of Europe, has an area of 29,418 square miles (49,030 square kilometers), slightly smaller than the State of West Virginia. To the west, Slovakia borders with the Czech Republic, to the southwest with Austria, to the southeast with Hungary, to the north with Poland, and to the east with the Ukraine. The terrain includes the high Carpathian Mountains (The Tatras) in the north, the low Carpathian mountains in the center, the foothills to the west, and the Danube River Basin in the south. Slovakia is mostly mountainous; approximately 80% of the territory is 750 meters or more above sea level. The highest 521

Slovakia point is Gerlach Peak, 2,655 meters above sea level. Slovakia is a land of beautiful, wide valleys, which were created by the Vah, Nitra, and Hron Rivers. Most of the land is drained by the Danube, the largest river in Slovakia, which empties into the Black Sea, and its tributaries (Morava, Vah, Hron and others). A smaller part of Slovakia is drained by the Dunajec River, a tributary of the Visla, which empties into the Baltic Sea. The longest river in Slovakia is the Vah, which is 234 miles (390 kilometers). In the eastern part of the country lie the woodlands of the Carpathian Mountains. Further south along the Danube River lies another important woodland section called the Podunajska Plain, the bread basket of Slovakia. In the woodland regions, oak, birch and spruce grow abundantly up to the tree line. Mountain pine and alpine vegetation g row above the tree line. Because the country lies on the crossroads of several different plant systems, unique flora abound. The entire territory of Slovakia is rich in fauna and most animal species live in the mountainous woodland regions. The climate in Slovakia is a mixture of continental and ocean climates and has four distinct seasons. The mountain regions affect the weather much more than the geographical location of the country. The warmest and driest regions are the southern Slovak plains and the Eastern Slovak lowlands where the average temperature is 10°C and average annual precipitation is approximately 500 mm. In the High Tatras, the average temperature is 3°C and annual precipitation is 2,000 mm. The coldest month is January; the warmest is July. During winter the temperatures in the mountain valleys are substantially lower than on the mountain peaks, and temperature inversions are quite common. Bratislava has a warm and moderately dry lowland climate with average temperatures 522

Cities of the World ranging from -1 degree C to -4 degrees C in January and from 19.5 degrees C to 20.5 degrees C in July. Annual rainfall varies from 530 to 650 mm. Bratislava ranks among the warmest places in Slovakia, and strong winds help to remove excessive air pollution and improve the air quality.

Population Slovakia has a population of 5,390,657. The ethnic breakdown of the population is 85.6% Slovaks, 10.8% Hungarian, 1.5% Romanies (or Gypsies), 1% Czechs, and the remaining 1.6% is made up o f Ruthenians, Ukrainians, and Germans. The average density is 106 inhabitants per square kilometer. The official language is Slovak. The majority of the population is Roman Catholic. Lutheranism is the second most practiced religion, and a significant part of the population of Eastern Slovakia is Greek-Catholic and Orthodox. Other smaller religious groups such as the Jewish community are active in Slovakia.

Public Institutions On January 1, 1993, the Slovak Republic, formerly part of Czechoslovakia, became an independent and democratic state. The partition of the former federation was accomplished democratically and peacefully. On September 1, 1992 the Slovak Parliament passed the Constitution of the Slovak Republic, creating the necessary framework for the democratic development of society. Its political system is based on the three fundamental branches of government: legislative, executive, and judicial. Slovakia's unicameral Parliament, the National Council of the Slovak Republic, has 150 deputies. The official head of state is the President who is elected by popular vote through a secret ballot for a five-year term. The President appoints and dismisses the Prime Minister and the other members of the government. The National Council of the Slovak Republic is

the only constitutional legislative body. Its deputies are elected by secret ballot for a four-year term. The main political parties are as follows: HZDS - Movement for a Democratic Slovakia SDK - Slovak Democratic Coalition SDL - Party of the Democratic Left KDH - Christian Democratic Movement DU - Democratic Union SNS - Slovak National Party EWS - Coexistence-Hungarian (Spoluzitie) National Movement SMK - Party of the Hungarian Coalition Slovak citizens have the right to vote at the age of 18 years. The judicial branch is comprised of courts on three levels: the Supreme C our t of t he Sl ovak R epublic, regional courts and district courts, with a Constitutional Court to decide constitutional issues. There is also a system of military courts. Judges of the Supreme Court, district, and regional courts are elected by the National Council, while the President appoints those of the Constitutional Court. A new government coalition formed after the September 1998 parliamentary elections has declared its top priorities to be righting the economy, fighting crime and corruption, and Slovak integration into the EU and NATO.

Arts, Science, and Education Slovakia boasts a variety of cultural, artistic, and craft traditions. A stay here would not be complete without seeing the variety of brightly colored ceramics produced by local tradesmen and artists. Beautifully hand-embroidered tablecloths and linens abound, as well as wooden toys, hand-made dolls, painted wooden eggs, and a variety of other enchanting folklore objects. Opera has a long tradition in Bratislava, and the Renaissance-style

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Cities of the World Slovak National Theater maintains a lively schedule of performances annually from September through June. Just opposite the theater, in the neo-Renaissance and neoBaroque building called the Reduta, the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra performs an annual series of concerts, also from September through June. Tickets to both the opera and the symphony are readily available at reasonable prices. The summer months are filled with the music of outdoor concerts, drama performances, and puppet shows, most of which are free, during the annual July-August Cultural Summer concert series. A number of movie theaters in Bratislava show English language films. There are many historical monuments of various architectural styles in the Slovak Republic. Slovakia lists 16 historical towns and 158 historical monuments. Listed historical towns are: Bratislava, Svaty Jur, Nitra, Trencin, Trnava, Banska Bystrica, Banska Stiavnica, Kremnica, Zilina, Bardejov, Kezmarok, Kosice, Levoca, Spisska Sobota, Spisske Podhradie, and Presov. In the last half of the nineteenth century an interest in preserving the Slovak national identity began to emerge. A cultural institution, the Slovak National Foundation (Matica Slovenska) was established in 1863. Later, in 1893, the Slovak Museum Society was also founded in Martin, and in spite of the e x tr e me ly d i f f i cu l t co n d i t i o n s imposed by the Austro-Hungarians, museum collections were brought together. Today the Matica Slovenska maintains the Slovak National Literary Museum, the National Cemetery, and the A. S. Pushkin Literary Museum in the city of Martin. There are also a variety of openair museums where traditional Slovak life has been preserved and in the town of Cicmany, a tranquil mountain village, residents continue to live in beautifully kept, typical, dark wooden houses decoratively painted in white folklore designs.

Presently there are 15 institutions of higher education in the Slovak Republic. The oldest university is Academia Istropolitana which was founded in Bratislava in 1467. The Mining and Forestry Academy of Banska Stiavnica is the oldest institution of its kind in Central Europe. Comenius University, located in Bratislava, has an independent unit called the Institute for Language and Academic Preparation, where foreign students are prepared for all Slovak universities in the Slovak language. There are fifty university faculties in Slovakia and universitylevel education is open to anyone who can pass an admissions test. Education in Slovakia is compulsory for ages 6-16. Among the new facilities is City University Bratislava which uses Distance Learning teaching methods: books, audio and videotapes, and computer software. Methods used are based on similar correspondence courses used at The Open University located in the UK. A second, and different, City University, headquartered in Bellevue, Washington, USA, has established a branch campus locally in the city of Trencin, a picturesque city in the northern part of Slovakia on the River Vah. Instruction is in English with most of the faculty coming from America. American professors conduct courses in several of the universities in Slovakia. American students in Slovakia pursue academic work under the auspices of various foundations and privately funded programs.

Commerce and Industry After the “commanders” of the command economy lost their power in 1989, Slovakia (then still a part of former Czechoslovakia) set out on a course of serious economic and political reforms. Much like in every other economy in transition, reforms have brought many gains but also a lot of pain. Slovakia successfully privatized most of its small enterprises and is concluding a notso-transparent privatization of

large enterprises. Retail prices have been going up but are still fairly low compared to the prices in the USA due to the low price of labor. Inflation is the lowest in Central Europe (ca. 6%), currency (Slovak Crown SK) is fairly stable, unemployment ca. 13%, and the GDP grew ca. 8% in 1998. It is premature to say, however, that after several years of impressive reforms, Slovakia is facing macroeconomic problems and much restructuring remains to be done at the microeconomic level. Private enterprise plays an important role in employment and amounts for ca.70% of the country's income. Though the economic situation is r e a s o n a b l y f a v o r a b l e, f o r e i g n investment has been growing at a slower pace than in other Eastern European countries. This is often attributed to Slovakia's relatively unstable political climate. Slovakia's neighbor, Austria, is the largest investor, followed by Germany and the Czech Republic. The USA comes fourth. Slovakia's principal trading partners are Europeans both those in CEFTA (Central European Free Trade Agreement) and those in the EU. Slovakia is dependent on oil and gas imports from Russia and foreign machinery and factory equipment imports. Slovakia also imports some food products, cars, electronics, clothing. Exports consist mainly of semi-finished products, market goods, machinery and equipment. Since iron and steel products play a crucial role in Slovakia's exports, the economy fluctuates with the economies of the countries that import these commodities (mainly within the EU). Slovakia's key advantages both in terms of competitiveness and foreign investment are its well-educated, highly skilled work force and relatively low wage rates. On the other hand, the country suffers a shortage of domestic capital needed for economic revival. Slovakia has its eyes set on joining the OECD and the EU. Commercial ties with the USA are good. American companies are 523

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becoming increasingly active in setting up joint ventures, holdings, offices and other forms of partnerships and investment in Slovakia. The American Business Center, American-Slovak Enterprise Fund, and American Chamber of Commerce in Slovakia with 120 members in 1998 are also very active in providing assistance to U.S. business and promoting U.S.-Slovak business ties.

Transportation Automobiles The public transportation system in Bratislava. In addition, neighboring cities like Vienna, Prague and Budapest, as well as towns and historic sites in Slovakia are within easy driving distance of Bratislava. The Slovak Republic has strict standards on automobiles. To register, all cars must pass an inspection designed to assure that vehicles meet emission standards, are road worthy and have certain safety features. Two such safety features that are often missing from Americanmade cars are fog lights and mud flaps for the rear tires. European specification cars are easier to maintain and register, but American specification cars are allowed in the country. Local dealers, such as Honda, Ford, Volks w a g e n a n d B M W, m a i n t a i n inventories of only European specification spare parts. High quality fuel, oil and antifreeze are available locally, but prices are more expensive than in the United States. All car owners must purchase local liability insurance. The rate of this insurance depends upon the size of the engine, with costs ranging from $100 to $200 per year for most stand a r d c a r s. O w n e r s s h o u l d investigate purchasing collision coverage from an American company that writes policies for automobiles in the Slovak Republic. Rental vehicles are available in Slovakia, although the rates for American 524

sized vehicles can be quite high, particularly when taking the car outside of the country.

Local Local mass transportation is excellent, widespread and inexpensive. Most trams and buses run from 6:00 am to 12:00 midnight. A bus or tram ticket is the equivalent of 25 cents per trip and three-month passes cost $30. Cabs are readily available and the cost per mile is equivalent to less than taxis in the United States.

Regional The roads throughout Slovakia and its neighboring countries are generally good. Major highways and roads are salted and plowed frequently d uring snowy and icy weather. There are excellent controlled-access highways leading into central Slovakia and to Budapest and Prague. As with the rest of Europe, driving is on the right-hand side of the road. Most countries in the area have impose d or will impose in the near future a “road tax” that must be paid to drive in the country. For Hungary this tax is paid at border crossings when entering the country. Austria and The Czech Republic require the purchase of highway stickers good for one year, as does Slovakia. The cost for a sticker in Austria is $65, for the Czech Republic is $15 and Slova kia is between $1 0 and $20 depending on the size of the engine of the vehicle. Other means of transportation are also excellent. Vienna International airport, with direct flights to many parts of the United States and to most major cities in Europe, is conveniently located 45 minutes by car from Bratislava. The Bratislava airport can also be used for commuter flights to other cities within Slovakia and to Prague and Budapest. Trains to other parts of Slovakia and to neighboring cities and countries are frequent and inexpensive.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph The national telephone system is adequate and is being upgraded. International direct dialing is available from residences and at the Post Office. Rates to the U.S. from residences are about $1.80/min and are considerably more expensive from the Post Office. Many call-back services exist which cost about 60 cents per minute for a call to the U.S. AT&T and MCI services are also available though more expensive. Fax services are available in a few shops in the city. Cellular phone services are available from Eurotel, Inc. a nd Glo btel Inc. C e llula r phones are not compatible with European protocol and generally cannot be changed. Internet is offered by local companies and the annual rate is approximately $194.

Mail Slovak mail service is currently not completely reliable for parcel mail. Parcels have arrived opened or very overdue and occasionally they have just disappeared.

TV and Radio Radio in the region provides entertainment and information formats. BBC World News and Blue Danube Radio (Vienna) provide news and entertainment in English on the FM dial. Car radios that have digital tuners must be switchable to European standards (100 kHz increments) to receive all FM stations (U.S. standard is kHz). Local television is limited to three Slovak, two Austrian and two Hungarian stations. Cable TV is available is some parts of the city, but most residents use 3ft satellite dishes and receivers to tune in to European satellite services. These services, cable and satellite, offer a handful of Englishlanguage channels-CNN, TNT, Sky News, Eurosport, etc., and several German channels. Enhanced services are available with the use of decoders and service memberships. Basic satellite service hardware purchased locally costs $200 to $500.

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Cities of the World Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Local publications are of interest to those with Slovak language skills. The Slovak Spectator, an Englishlanguage newspaper, is written and produced in Bratislava by an E n g l i s h - s p e a k i n g s t a f f. T h e International Herald Tribune is widely available in large hotels and some bookstores.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities The U.S. Embassy Regional Medical Officer recommends that local hospitals not be used by any U.S., except for emergency services in cases in which it is inadvisable to transport the patient to the hospital in Hainburg, (a border town approximately 20 minutes from Bratislava) Austria. Additionally, the RMO recommends that chronic medical conditions be managed by Austrian physicians. Competent dentists practice in Bratislava, but many Americans do not consider them equal to the best American dentists. Americans are usually satisfied with minor dental work done locally. Local ophthalmologists and opticians are dependable. Glasses may be obtained locally and at U.S. military hospitals in Germany for somewhat lower prices than in the U.S. Your should plan bringing a supply of prescriptions with you or filling them though mail-order pharmacy services in the U.S.

Community Health General sanitation in Bratislava is good. The water is fluorinated and safe to drink. Some Americans use water distillers if they live outside of the city limits of Bratislava. Bottled water is widely available for sale. Parents should bring fluoridefortified vitamins or fluoride tablets for their children, as once the water is distilled or filtered/ boiled, it loses its fluoride content. Streets and sidewalks are relatively well-kept due to daily sweeping. People prac-

tice basic cleanliness. Garbage collection is regular, and se wage disposal is good. Many roadside ditches are currently being dug in Bratislava and in towns and villages around Slovakia, in order to lay sewage lines, bury television and telephone cables, etc. The dirt and ditches are annoying but temporary. In winter months, the city and rural streets are plowed sporadically during heavy snowfall. Sidewalks are often not cleaned of ice and snow. Main roads in Bratislava are generally in fair condition in winter, and highways in Slovakia are adequate.

Embassy of the Slovak Republic at 3523 International Court N.W., Suite 250, Washington, DC 20007, telephone (202) 965-5160/1, Internet http://www.slovakemb.com. Americans living in or visiting Slovakia are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Slovakia and obtain updated information on travel and security within Slovakia. The U.S. Embassy is located at Hviezdoslavovo nam. 4, telephone (421)(7) 5443 0861, (421)(7) 5443 3338, fax (421)(7) 5441 8861, web site: http:// www.usis.sk.

Preventive Measures Immunizations should be current upon arrival. Additionally, a series of three injections preventing tickborne encephalitis is recommended in this region.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties Most choose to fly to Vienna, due to its proximity to Bratislava. Several American carrier service Vienna's Schwechat airport with code sharing arrangements with European airlines. Delta, United and Northwestern are three airlines that fly into Vienna. There are usually several flights daily from the East Coast of the U.S. using one of the American carriers. There are no special restrictions on the free passage of individuals and goods among countries in Central Europe, other than those that are generally known - drugs, contraband weapons, etc. A passport is required. A visa is not required for stays up to thirty days. For stays longer than thirty days a visa must be obtained prior to entry at Slovak embassies or consulates abroad. Visas cannot be obtained at border points upon arrival. Travelers to the Slovak Republic can obtain entry information at the

Pets Rabies shots must be current, not less than one month and not more than one year old, for entry of a pet shipped by air to Vienna. A valid International Certificate of Health must be issued by a veterinarian within ten days before your arrival in Vienna. As long as your pet has the above documentation, no quarantine restrictions are required. Veterinarian services are available in Bratislava, and most of the veterinarians speak English.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The Slovak Crown (Koruna) is the official currency. One koruna contains 100 halier. Notes of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and 5000 Korun exist. Coins in circulation are of 1, 2, 5, 10 Korun, and 10, 20, and 50 halier. Dollars can be exchanged at banks and official exchanges all over Bratislava and Slovakia. Credit cards are widely accepted in stores, restaurants, and hotels, in Bratislava. Many automated teller machines accept Most, Plus and Cirrus debit cards. The metric system of weights and measures is used in Slovakia. 525

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LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Slovak Republic Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Labor Day May 8 . . . . . . . . . . End of World War ll July 5 . . . . . . . . . . St. Cyril & St. Methodious Day Aug. 29 . . . . . . . . . Slovak Nation. Uprising Day Sept. 1. . . . . . . . . . Slovak Consitituion Day Sept. 15. . . . . . . . . The Day of the Virgin Mary of the Seven Sorrows Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saints’ Day

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Cities of the World Dec. 24 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Eve Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .St. Stephen’s Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING The following titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country: Encyclopedical Institute of the Slovak Academy of Sciences. Slovakia and the Slovaks: A Concise Encyclopedia. Goldpress Publishers: Bratislava 1994. Priroda. Slovakia: Walking Through Centuries of Cities and Towns.

Stredoslovenske vydavatelstvo Banska Bystrica and Tlaciarne BB: Banska Bystrica 1995. Kirschbaum, Joseph M. Slovakia: A Nation at the Crossroads of Central Europe. Robert Speller and Sons, Publishers Inc.: New York 1960. Kischbaum, Stanislav J. A History of Slovakia: The Struggle for Survival. St. Martin's Press: New York 1995. Oddo, Gilbert L. Slovakia and Its People. Robert Speller and Sons, Publishers: New York 1960. Zendzian, Paul F. and Vadkerty, Madeline Bon Appetit, Dobru Chut, Bratislava: A Guide to 70 of the Best Restaurants in Bratislava. Brunswick Legal Publishers: Brunswick, Maine U.S.A. 1995.

SLOVENIA Republic of Slovenia

Major City: Ljubljana Other Cities: Maribor, Rogaška Slatina

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Slovenia. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The Republic of Slovenia is one of the youngest countries in central Europe. With 2 million inhabitants in a country about the size of Israel, Slovenia is strategically located at the crossroads between western and central Europe from west to east, and between central Europe and the Balkans from north to south. Although the Slovene people have occupied their lands for over a thousand years, they have always been dominated and ruled by foreigners. Most notably, the Austro-Hungarian Empire ruled these lands for centuries and had the greatest impact on the shaping of Slovene culture and character. From 1918 to 1941, Slovenia joined its Slavic cousins Croatia

and Serbia to form the new state, the Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats, and Serbs, which eventually transformed into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia under the reign of a Serbian monarch. With the onset of World War II, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia collapsed and the Axis Powers of Germany and Italy divided and occupied Slovenia until 1945. After World War II, Marshal Tito and his Communist partisans firmly took control of Yugoslavia until its final disintegration in 1991. Slovenia's road to democracy and independence was neither easy nor without risk. In September 1989, the General Assembly of the Yugoslav Republic of Slovenia boldly adopted an amendment to its constitution that gave the people of Slovenia the right to secede from Yugoslavia. In April 1990, parliamentary elections were held and a n e w a n t i c om m u n i s t c o a l i t i o n , DEMOS, obtained a majority in Parliament. Milan Kucan was elected as President of the four-member Presidency of Slovenia. Then, on December 23, 1990, more than 88% of the electorate voted for independence. With this public mandate, on June 25, 1991, the Slovenian Parliament adopted a new constitutional charter on sovereignty and declared independence from Yugoslavia. (The Republics of Croatia, BosniaHerzegovina, and Macedonia fol-

lowed suit.) In response to Slovenia's declaration, the Yugoslav Government ordered its army to secure and seal the Slovene borders. However, after 10 days of hostilities and confrontations, Slovenia successfully defended its territory and the Yugoslav army withdrew. Once its independence and sovereignty were secure, Slovenia began a diplomatic campaign to gain international recognition. The United States officially recognized Slovenia on April 7, 1992, and Slovenia became a member of the United Nations on May 22, 1992. A year later, Slovenia became a member of the Council of Europe. Currently, a non-permanent member of the Security Council, Slovenia is also aggressively pursuing NATO membership and has concluded an Association Agreement with the European Union in 1997. The EU invited Slovenia to negotiate on full EU membership, which will likely become a reality early in the new century. A visit to the American Embassy in Ljubljana will not only expose you to the rich cultural history and charm of this Alpine people, but will bring you to the center of a middleincome country rapidly converging with the rest of Europe. 527

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MAJOR CITY Ljubljana Slovenia was one of the inner provinces of the Hapsburg Empire until the demise of Austria-Hungary at the end of World War I. A major earthquake destroyed most of the buildings in the city around the turn of the century, so many public and private buildings in the city center are done in the secession style of the late imperial period. Together with the medieval castle on the hill and the Ljubljanica River which meanders through the old town, the Slovenian capital has a distinct Old World flavor. Ljubljana and its outlying suburbs number nearly 300,000 inhabitants. The city has doubled in size since World War II, yet has benefited from a planning policy that encouraged industrial development in other parts of the Republic.

Slovene beer and wine are very good and not expensive. Slovenia is filled with vineyards of high quality and variety. Vodka, scotch, gin, and other liquors are available but are expensive.

Clothing

As the center of a small republic which places a high value on its culture, Ljubljana is home to a more intense cultural life than its size would suggest. In addition to several museums and theaters, the city has its own opera and ballet, two symphony orchestras, a cinema society, and writers club. Yet, because of the beauty of the Slovenian countryside and the proximity of the Adriatic coast and surrounding mountains, inhabitants frequently go out of town on weekends, often taking advantage of their easy access to Italy and Austria. Most Slovenians are deeply attached to the countryside, and skis and walking boots are a common sight on the

Good quality clothing is available, but the prices are high compared to U.S. prices. Limited items can be purchased at the military exchange stores in Italy. Prices and products on the Italian and Austrian economy are also higher than in the U.S.

Utilities

Basic toiletries, cosmetics, tobacco products, medicines, and household supplies are available either from local stores, duty-free shops, or through mail order. Local stores sell mainly European brands.

The electricity supply is 220v, 50 cycles. Appliances rated for 110v or 120v at a maximum charge rate of 10 amperes (about 1,000 watts) may be operated by using a stepdown transformer of 220v to 110v connected to each outlet. Voltage stabilizers are not usually required for sensitive electronic equipment. 528

Food The Slovene market provides exceptional quality foods. There are no food shortages. There are several food stores/supermarkets where many imported food items such as Uncle Ben's Rice, Corn Flakes, and peanut butter are available, with n e w it e m s b e i n g a d d e d to t h e shelves periodically. Open markets offer plenty of fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs. The variety of fresh fruits and vegetables may be limited during winter months, but summer months offer greater variety at reasonable prices. Beef, pork, chicken, turkey, and fish are available as are canned, frozen and a wide variety of baby food. Prices are typically higher than in the U.S. Cleaning supplies are plentiful but more expensive than in the U.S.

In general, a wardrobe suitable for Northeastern U.S. weather should be satisfactory. Boots, heavy winter coats, raincoats, and umbrellas are a must throughout fall and winter months. Light summer clothing is needed for July and August, with light sweaters, suits, light raincoats required for spring and early summer.

Supplies and Services

Ljubljana has good, reasonably priced tailors and dressmakers. Local drycleaning and shoe repair

services are also available. There are several excellent beauty and barbershops which provide service at prices comparable to those in the U.S. Repair facilities for many makes of newer automobiles, audio and video equipment, and household appliances are available.

Domestic Help Part-time domestic help can be hired at an hourly rate of approximately $5.00. Transportation is also paid by the employer. It is not easy to find qualified people for these jobs since Slovenes consider domestic work to be part of the family responsibility. Most domestic helpers tend to be refugees or immigrants from other countries. There is no requirement to pay Social Security Tax for part time domestic employees.

Religious Activities Ljubljana's churches are all Roman Catholic, except for one Eastern Orthodox church and one Protestant church. Catholic services in English or French are held Sundays at 11 am at the Franciscan Church in Ljubljana. The rabbi from Zagreb holds occasional services for the tiny Jewish community in Ljubljana since there are no functioning synagogues in the country now.

Education Ljubljana has a private school founded by Quality Schools International (QSI) and a Slovene International School sponsored by the Ministry of Education. Instruction in both schools is in English. QSI opened a school in Ljubljana providing an American curriculum for children ages 4 to 13 in September 1995. Students who attend the QSI will easily reenter the U.S. school system. There are plans to establish a half-day program for 3-year old children in the near future. School bus transportation is not offered by any of the schools. Correspondence courses for high school classes are available at QSI through the University of Nebraska. The Slovene International School curriculum leads to a baccalaureate degree.

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View of Ljubljana, Slovenia

They have 70 students in their Danila Kumar elementary school, and 50 in their Gimnazija Bezigrad (high school). Their nursery program accepts only 15 children aged 3 and above. The French school in Ljubljana accepts students aged 316. With the exception of preschoolers, students are expected to speak French fluently to enter their program. Slovenian Childcare Centers accept foreign children for their fullday preschools, however, instructions are entirely in Slovene.

Special Educational Opportunities The University of Ljubljana accepts enrollment of foreign students. Before being admitted into a special field of study, students must take an intensive year-long Slovene language course. Private instruction in art, music and Slovene language can be arranged. None of the schools that offe r instruction in English can accommodate students with special education ne eds. Ph ysical acc ess to schools is also difficult for students with disabilities. Building codes to not reflect U.S. standards.

© Janez Skok/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

health spas, tennis courts, swimming pools and bowling alleys throughout the country. Membership dues to these facilities are reasonable. Spectator sports like ice hockey, basketball and soccer are also available. Sporting equipment can be purchased locally or through the exchange stores in Italy.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Ljubljana is a skier's paradise with almost four dozen ski resorts nearby. Mountain and hill climbing are popularly supported through associations. The seaside is only a 2hour drive from Ljubljana. Swimming is also popular in the Bled and Bohinj lakes and Krka and Kolpa rivers. Hiking and climbing are excellent both summer and winter. Boating and windsurfing, kayaking, canoeing, and rafting are among the most popular sports. Lake and river fishing and hunting are excellent, but licenses are very expensive compared to U.S. prices. Cycling is a favorite sport among all ages. A 27hole course at Bled, an 18-hole course at Mokrice, a 9-hole course in Lipica, and a new layout in Rogaska Slatina offer th eir services to golfers.

Sports Slovenians are very active in all forms of sports. There are several well-equipped sports centers, many

Entertainment Ljubljana enjoys a very rich cultural life. It is blessed with a graceful

Opera House which was opened in 1892 as the Provincial Theater, as well as with several concert halls and theaters throughout the city. Nearly 800 cultural events a year take place at Cankarjev Dom, the national theater center composed of excellent acoustics. Although performances by Slovenians are most prominent, there are guest performances by philharmonic orchestras from various European capitals and from the U.S. There are several movie theaters where the majority of films are shown with their original sound track and Slovene subtitles. Ljubljana also houses excellent music clubs for jazz, rock, and pop music. Discos, bars, and pubs add to the entertainment scene of Ljubljana. Several Slovenian TV channels show American movies and TV shows in English. The International Summer Festival of music, theater and dance, held principally at the open-air theater of the Krizanke, runs from mid-July through August. As a university town, there is a lively student community, and a multitude of bars and discos that cater to young people. Nightlife is very active during the university terms, and young people can be found gathering until the wee hours on most weekends. Ljubljana has many museums, including a National Gallery of Art. There are numerous smaller art galleries throughout the city, displaying the works of Slovene artists, along with guest artists from various countries. In the countryside, restaurants were traditionally part of an inn, called a gostilna. Families would gather at these charming gostilnas for long meals, generally heavier than Americans are accustomed to (schnitzel, sausage, and potatoes). Now there are restaurants scattered throughout the city, including Italian, Chinese, and Mexican. There are many pizza parlors and several McDonald's restaurants. Ljubljana boasts the world's largest 529

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Dairy Queen, right in the center of town.

Social Activities Social life among Americans is informal. Since distances are so short to various attractive spots within and outside of Slovenia, most people take advantage of the weekend to travel. Slovenians are friendly and informal in their social dealings. Entertainment at home is not very common within the Slovenian community, hence most entertainment hosted by the Slovenians takes place in restaurants. There is a Slovenian International Ladies Association, SILA, which was established in 1993 for the purpose of encouraging social, cultural and educational exchange. Membership is open to all Slovene and foreign women for a small fee. SILA organizes regular meetings, trips, lectures, cultural events, sports activities, language classes, cooking lessons, an annual ball during February and the annual charity bazaar during November.

OTHER CITIES Set between the Pohorje and Slovenske Gorice Mountains in the far northwest, MARIBOR (in German, Marburg) is one of Slovenia’s foremost resort areas. The principal political hub of northern Slovenia, Maribor is also a major industrial center. Heavy industry provides the economic mainstay for the region, especially engineering and aluminum industries, and motor vehicle assembly. In addition, this is the heart of a productive agricultural district that cultivates apples and grapes. History here can be traced to a Roman settlement, while the town itself began in the mid-12th century. It was known as a base of German culture, as well as a Christian bulwark. Completion of the Vienna-Trieste railway in the 1840s was a tremendous stimulus for growth. The area was stifled by Germanization during World War II; Yugoslav partisans liberated Maribor in 1945. Notable for tourists are 530

the 12th-century cathedral, St. Madeline Church, and a monument recalling the plague of 1680. Maribor has a recently opened university. The city’s population is about 108,000. Nearby is the historical village of Ptuj. Mariborsko Pohorje is a popular ski resort. R O G A Š K A S L AT I N A i s b e s t known as Slovenia's oldest and largest spa town, offering plenty to do and see for the history buff as well as the health seeker. Rogaška Slatina has been inhabited since Roman times. The first written mention of the spring, on which the spa was built, is in a manuscript dated 1141. Legend says that the magnesium-rich Slatina spring was discovered by the winged horse Pegasus, who was sent by Apollo to drink there. The spring became famous at around 1665 when a feudal lord, the Croat Peter Zrinjski, was said to have received miraculous healing from the waters. By the turn of the 18th century, 20,000 bottles of Slatina spring water were being sold in Vienna. Today, the Rogaška Health Resort is considered to by one of the top centers of its kind in the world. Visitors can enjoy a number of traditional and holistic healing treatments, preventative or curative, that cover conditions in all fields of medicine, including gastroenterology, cardiology, dermatology, gynecology, physi o t h e r a p y, k i n e s i o t h e r a p y, psychotherapy, balneotherapy, aromatherapy, arterial surgery, cosmetic surgery and more. Within the resort, sports and leisure opportunities include: fitness trails, sports fields, tennis and squash courts, hiking, biking, thermal mineral pools, saunas, solariums, fitness studios, ski slopes, theater performances, daily concerts and dances, and a casino. For those not seeking major treatments, at the Pivnica, a circular glass building attached to the Hotel Donat, you can "hire" a glass to drink from one of 11 fountains containing hot and cold mineral waters.

The Hotel Donat also offers an indoor mineral pool. The non-spa visitor will find just as much to do and see in the city and its surrounding area. There are a great number of well-marked trails for hiking and biking. Organized tours are available to the Carthusian Monastery of Pleterje, the Kajfez Castle, or the Atomske Toplice, another thermal spa. These locations can be visited on your own as well. Golf enthusiasts will enjoy the nine-hole golf course in nearby Podcetrtek. An easy side-trip for the day is a trek to Rogatec, just 7 km to the east of Rogaška. The town dates back to Roman times and holds two beautiful Baroque churches and the remains of two castles. Cultural sites in Rogaška Slatina include the Museum of Graphic Art, which houses the collection of 16th – 19th century etchings and drawings donated by Kurt Müller. Frequent concerts take place throughout the town and resort, including an annual song festival. A final popular attraction is the local crystal factory and shop. Group tours are available to watch as workers produce some of the world’s finest crystal, including Waterford. A gift shop offers reasonable prices for crystalware.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Slovenia is a central European country with a surface area of 12,153 square miles. Austria borders it to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and southeast, and Italy to the west. To the southwest, Slovenia has a 28mile coastline on the Adriatic Sea. There are basically six topographies: the Alps, including the Julian

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Cities of the World Alps, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, the Karavanke chain and the Pohorje Massif to the north and northeast; the pre-Alpine hills of Idrija, Cerk n o, S k o f j a L o k a a n d Pos av j e spreading across the entire southern side of the Alps; the Dinaric karst (a limestone region of underground rivers, gorges, and caves) below the hills and encompassing the “true” or “original” Karst Plateau (from which all karst regions around the world take their name) between Ljubljana and the Italian border; the Slovenian Littoral, 28 miles of coastline along the Adriatic Sea; the “lowlands,” comprising about one-fifth of the territory in various parts of the country; and the essentially flat Pannonian Plain to the east and northeast. Slovenia is predominantly hilly or mountainous; about 90% of the surface is more than 700 feet above sea level. Forest, some of it virgin, covers just under half of the country, making Slovenia one of the greenest countries in the world. Agricultural land (fields, orchards, vineyards, pastures, etc.) account for 43% of the total. Slovenia is temperate with four seasons, but the topography creates three individual climates. The northwest has an Alpine climate with strong influences from the Atlantic and abundant precipitation. Temperatures in the Alpine valleys are moderate in summer but cold in winter. The coast and a large part of Primorska as far as the Soca Valley has a Mediterranean climate with warm sunny weather much of the year and mild winters. Most of eastern Slovenia has a Continental climate with hot summers and cold winters. The average temperature in July is 68-75°F in the interior while on the coast it is around 8285ºF. Ljubljana sits in a valley, and often has fog or rain covering the city. Slovenia gets most of its rain in the spring (May and June) and autumn (October and November). January is the coldest month with an average temperature of 30°F, and July is the warmest, with an average tempera-

ture of 70°E The mean average temperature in Ljubljana is 50°F. Average annual precipitation is 31 inches in the east and 117 inches in the northeast, on account of heavier snowfall. Major rivers are the Drava, Sava (which meets the Danube in Belgrade), Soca, and Mura.

Population Slovenia has a population of some two million, which is about 90% Slovene, with sizable Italian and Hungarian minorities Slovenes are descendants of the Southern Slavs who settled in what is now Slovenia and parts of Italy, Austria, and Hungary from the 6th century AD. Other group; identify themselves as Croats (2.7%), Serbs (2.5%), and simply “Moslems” (1.3%). There are also 8,500 ethnic Hungarians and 2,300 Gypsies, largely it Prekmurje, as well as 3,000 Italians it Primorska. The Italians and Hungarians are considered indigenous minorities with rights protected under the constitution, and they have special deputies looking after their interests in Parliament. Ethnic Slovenes living outside the national borders number about 400,000, with the vast majority (almost 75%) in the U.S. and Canada. Cleveland, Ohio, is the largest “Slovenian” city outside Slovenia, Slovene minorities also live in Italy, Austria and Hungary. The population density is 300 people per square mile, with the urbanrural ratio split almost exactly in half. The five largess settlements in Slovenia are Ljubljana (270,000), Maribor (108,000), Celjc (40,000), Kranj (30,000), and Koper (25,300). The population is aging. Currently, 15% of Slovenia is over 60 years of age, and by 2000 the figure will rise to over 25%. About 80% of Slovenes are Roman Catholic. An archbishop sits in Ljubljana, and there are bishoprics at Maribor and Koper. Eastern

Orthodox Christians, Moslems, and Protestants are represented in small percentages.

Public Institutions Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy and constitutional republic. Power is shared between a directly elected President, a Prime Minister, and a bicameral legislature with constitutional provision for an independent judiciary. Slovenia has been a member of the UN since May 1992 and the Council of Europe since May 1993. In 199899, it served as a nonpermanent member of the UN Security Council. On February 1, 1999, it became an Associate Member of the European Union (EU). Slovenia is also a member of all major international financial institutions: the International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank, and the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development. Slovenia also belongs to 40 other international organizations, among them the World Trade Organization, of which it is a founding member. The supreme legislative body in Slovenia is the Parliament, which is composed of two chambers, the National Assembly and the National Council (a kind of “upper” chamber with the right to veto some decisions of the National Assembly). The President of the Republic is elected in general elections for a 5year term. The President is the formal supreme armed forces comm a n d e r i n t i m e o f w a r, b u t otherwise his constitutional powers are relatively limited. The President of the National Assembly and Prime Minister are elected by the National Assembly for a 4-year term. Seats in the National Assembly are decided by proportional representation, although this may change to a first-past-the-post voting system early in the new century. Major political parties include the Liberal Democratic Party (LDS), the People's Party (SLS), the Social Democratic Party (SDS), the Christian Democratic Party (SKD), the 531

Slovenia Associated List (ZLSD), the Pensioners Party (DeSUS), and the National Party (SNS). There are also a few dozen very small political parties which currently have no representation in Parliament. In classic political terms, few fundamental philosophical differences exist between “left” and “right” in the area of public policy. Slovene society is built on consensus, which has converged on a social-democrat model. Instead, political differences have their roots in the roles that groups and individuals played during the years of Communist rule and the struggle for independence. As evidence of this, the coalition that emerged from the l996 general elections spans the political spectrum, joining a nominally “leftist” Liberal Democratic Party and a “rightist” Peoples Party. Also a part of the coalition is the post-communist Pensioners Party. The parliamentary opposition is similarly fragmented. Judges exercise judicial authority and their appointment is for life. Ju d g e s a r e n o t a p p oi n t e d b u t elected by the National Assembly on the recommendation of the Judicial Council, and may be dismissed only if they infringe the Constitution or commit a major breach of the law. The courts are divided into the courts of general jurisdiction and special jurisdiction. Specialized courts exercise judicial power only in special legal fields, within special jurisdiction provided by Statute (e.g., the Labor and Social Courtsspecialized in deciding on individual and collective labor disputes and on social disputes, i.e. on disputes in areas of social security). Courts of general jurisdiction are organized on four levels: district, regional, high, and Supreme. The Office of Public Prosecutor is an independent state body, but it consults closely with the government, in most cases with the Ministry of Justice. The organization of the Public Prosecutor's office parallels that of the courts of general jurisdiction. 532

Cities of the World The Constitutional Court is the highest body of judicial review. The Court has nine members (judges) elected by the National Assembly on the nomination of the President of the Republic. A judge is elected for a term of 9 years and is not eligible for reelection. Nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) active in Slovenia include: Amnesty International, the UN Association of Slovenia, the Helsinki Monitor, Information (the documentation center of the Council of Europe in Slovenia), the Red Cross of Slovenia, Caritas (a Catholic charity), UNICEF, and GAEA 2000 (an ecological and refugee NGO).

Arts, Science, and Education The Reformation brought literacy and general culture to the Slovenes in the 16th century. Where before only a small number of religious persons could read and write Latin, the introduction of the printing press made the Slovene language available to the masses-a political as well as a cultural milestone. Primoz Trubar's The Catechism was printed in 1551. In 1584 the first translation of the Bible into Slovene by Jurij Dalmatin was published, and the first Slovene grammar by Adam Bohoric. Although the subsequent Counterreformation crushed the religious gains made by the Protestant Reformation, the linguistic seed of Slovene nationhood had taken root. To this day, October 31, Reformation Day, is celebrated as a national holiday. Drama and poetry were also instrumental in developing the Slovene language in the 18th and 19th centuries. The poems of Valentin Vodn i k a n d t h e p l a ys o f A n t o n T. Linhart expressed the libertarian spirit of the French Enlightenment and the French Revolution. The great educational reforms introduced by Austrian Empress Maria Theresa in the late 1700s resulted in mass literacy of the Slovene people. As a result, poet France

Preseren, a lawyer and freethinker, brought to Slovene poetry all the principal classical poetic forms; he spiritually kindled the sub-Alpine province with the fighting spirit of the European Romantics and thus articulated the national consciousness. A century and a half after its creation, his “Zdravljica” (The Toast) became the national anthem of the Slovene State. Other influential writers were Ivan Cankar and Oton Zupancic. Both contributed to the cultural and spiritual development as well as the political life of the Slovene people. C a n k a r, a m a s t e r o f s y m b o l i c sketches and somewhat Ibsen-like plays about the disintegration of provincial values at a time of industrialization and the advance of capital, was also an enthusiastic essayist. Zupancic, whose explicitly modern approach to poetry and powerful personality made him for many years the standard for other poets, also supported the national resistance from the start of World War II. The Slovene capital of Ljubljana has a variety of theaters: drama, opera, and ballet companies of the Slovene National Theater (Ljubljana), the Municipal Theater, Slovene Youth Theater, and other amateur theaters. There are also drama, opera and ballet companies in Maribor, Slovenia's second largest city, and professional theaters perform in Celje, Kranj, and Nova Gorica (as well as in Trieste in Italy). An international agreement guarantees the Slovene minority their own artistic creativity. Music is an important part of the Slovene culture. Some documentary evidence suggests that the Slovenes first brought their own musical culture with them to their new homel a n d i n t h e 6 t h c e n t u r y. Monasteries, churches, and schools provided melodic and harmonic choral and liturgical singing. By the end of the middle ages, church music had reached a relatively high level based on the polyphony prevailing in European centers of the time.

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Cities of the World In the 18th century, the first Slovene opera was written, “Belin” by J. Zupan and EA. Dev. In 1701, Ljubljana received its Academia Philharm o ni c o r u m , t h e f o r e r u n n e r o f today's Philharmonic. Europe's leading composers and performers of the day - Joseph Haydn, Ludwig von Beethoven, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Niccolo Paganini, Johannes Brahms, Bedrich Smetana, Antonin Dvorak-were honorary members, and frequently appeared on the Philharmonia stage. Its conductorsguest and permanent-included Gustav Mahler, Pablo Sarasate, and Eugene d'Albert. Choral singing is also deeply rooted in Slovene culture and very popular. The meeting of choirs at Sentvid by Sticna each year brings together several thousand singers. Representatives of alternative music and culture, gr oups like Laibach and Borghesia, are specifically a Slovene phenomenon. The most important Slovene fine art can be seen in national institutions such as the National Gallery and the Modern Gallery in Ljubljana, and in numerous smaller galleries and exhibitions throughout Slovenia. At Ljubljana's Academy of Fine Arts, Slovene painters keep pace with the world's creativity, as do sculptors, successors to the traditions of Bernkeker, Zajc, Kalin, Savinsek, and many others. An International Graphics Biennial was initiated in 1955 under the ausp i c e s o f t h e M o d e r n G a l l e r y, expanded in 1987 to an International Graphic Arts Center. Architecture is also an important aspect of the Slovenian culture and character. Slovenia's most famous architect, Joze Plecnik, developed a master plan for the reconstruction of Ljubljana after much of its city center was destroyed in an earthquake in 1895. His works included the famous bridge of Tromostovje (Three Bridges), Ljubljana's busiest and most beautiful bridge; the National and University Library; the open market by the Ljubljanica River; Zale Cemetery, the Garden of All Saints; the adaptation of Kri-

zanke for the summer theater; the Churches of St. Francis in Siska and St. Michael on the Marsh; and the central stadium. Credit for Ljubljana's architectural charm is also due to modern architect Max Fabiani, who conceived the beautiful Secession Park in the city center. Any discussion of Slovene culture must take into account such important institutions as the Slovene Academy of Sciences and Arts and the University. The Slovene Academy of Sciences and Arts was founded just before World War II (1938), but its deep roots reach back to the 17th century, to the Academia Operosomm. The University of Ljubljana, founded in 1919, was Slovenia's only educational institution until the founding of its second university in Maribor in 1975. The first well-known Slovene scientist was the social historian, Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641-1693), a member of the British Royal Society. In 1689, he published in 3,500 pages a richly illustrated work, “In Praise of the Duchy of Carniola,” which thoroughly presented a central part of Slovenia to Europe and remains an important reference source to the day. The first scientific academy operated in Ljubljana in the period from 1693 to 1725. In 1762, almost 100 years before Pasteur, the physician Marko Plencic recognized microorganisms as the cause of contagious diseases. The mathematician Jurij Vega developed logarithms in the 1700s while the greatest Slovene physicist, Jozef Stefan, discovered the law of heat radiation in 1879. In 1923, Ljubljana-born Friderik Pregl received the chemistry Nobel Prize for his work on organic chemical microanalysis. After World War II, numerous basic research institutes were established in Slovenia: physics, chemistry, electromechanical, and others. The Physics Institute, named after Jozef Stefan, has become one of Slovenia's premier research institutes with approximately 550 scientists. Its founder and first director, physicist

Anton Peterlin, went abroad in 1960 and became one of the top scientists in the field of large molecules and polymerization. The Stefan Institute keeps abreast of the world's main developmental trends in at least 10 fields. As such, it is a natural venue for scientific and environmental programming, conducting all nuclear and environmental research in Slovenia. It is also actively involved in international exchange. Today, with a total of 27,000 students and 1,300 faculty members spread among 20 separate faculties, three academies, three specialized s c h o o l s, a n d o t h e r a s s o c i a t e d research institutes, the University of Ljubljana remains preeminent. The Economics Faculty's MBA program has profited from a 30-year relationship with the University of Indiana. The University of Maribor has 12,500 students and 550 professors and has been particularly interested in expanding its cooperation with American educational institutions. In addition, six freestanding institutes of higher education that grant diplomas have recently been established, with three already fully operational. Two other institutions, the privately operated GEA College and the MBA Center at Brdo, both have excellent international reputations. The board of education is engaged in a major overhaul of the Slovene school system, including instituting new standardized exams, curriculum reform, educational technology and foreign language teaching, to better match it to the country's projected economic needs.

Commerce and Industry With less than 2 million inhabitants, Slovenia's economy produced $19.64 billion in goods and services. Slovenians per capita earn $9,899, which is one of the highest among 533

Slovenia all transitional countries in central and Eastern Europe. The country has a reliable and modern telecommunications system, relatively good public utility infrastructure, a welldeveloped and modern industrial base, and an educated and productive workforce.

groups of industrial products. Primary production includes: electrical machinery and equipment, metal workings in the production of vehicles and machinery, textiles and leather products, wood products and foodstuff, iron and glass, and pharmaceuticals and furniture.

Due to its strategic location, Slovenia has embarked on an ambitious road construction plan that will crisscross the country in two directions: from east to west, linking Milan-Ljubljana-Budapest; and from north to south, linking Munich-Ljubljana-Zagreb. Under this plan, the Slovene traffic network will be entirely modernized by the year 2005. A planned railway from Hungary to the Slovene Port of Koper is another important transportation plan, thereby giving Central Europe a new access to the Adriatic coast.

Pe r c a p i t a e x p o r t s i n 1 9 9 7 amounted to $4,220; considerably higher than other southern, central, and eastern European countries, reflecting Slovenia's exceptional openness. The total exports of goods and services in 1997 reached $10.5 billion, of which exports of goods contributed $8.4 billion.Slovenia has enjoyed virtual balance in the current account since 1992.

The Slovene economy is extremely diverse. Manufacturing, which has made considerable progress in recent years, provides almost 30% of the gross domestic product. It is followed in importance by trade, business and financial service, transport, and agency business. Tourism is directly responsible for only around 3% of the gross domestic product, but it is extremely important, both for its general effect on the Slovene economy and for the balance of payments. In 1997, Slovenia's tourism industry provided a US$1.2 billion contribution to the current account. Small businesses have been the engine of Slovenia's economic growth in recent years. The number of registered companies has grown to almost 52,000 (36,700 were active at the end of 1997). Ninety-five percent of all companies are small, with up to 50 employees. Large companies with more than 250 persons account for 2% and medium-sized companies, roughly 4%. Industrial production in Slovenia is diverse, with some 6,800 industrial companies in all branches, employing close to 240,000 persons and making roughly 1,690 different 534

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Slovenia has a number of important foreign trading partners in the EU, notably Germany, Italy, and Austria. In 1997, Slovenia negotiated an Association Agreement with the EU and expects to become a full member by the turn of the century. Slovenia is also a member of CEFTA (Central European Free Trade Agreement) and has signed 30 free trade agreements with a number of countries including Macedonia, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, and the Baltic States. The tax system has to a large extent been harmonized with arrangements in other European countries. Profits are taxed at a level of 25%. Individual income tax rates range from 17%-50%. There is a compulsory social security contribution from employees (22.1% of gross pay) and employers (an additional contribution of 19.9%). A new law on value added tax and another on excise duty tax has been adopted, effective July 1999. A general tax level of 19% and a reduced rate of 8% are anticipated. The process of privatization (or ownership transformation of a formerly socially owned firm) was formally concluded in Slovenia at the end of 1997. The first dividends were paid to the new shareholders in 1995, and shares of an increasing number of companies are traded on the Ljubljana stock exchange.

U.S. policy supports strengthening bilateral economic ties, particularly trade and private business investment, which contribute to Slovenia's development. Some 50 American companies, including some of the largest Fortune 500 firms, have established a presence in the country. The U.S. has supported Slovene application for membership in such international economic organizations as the World Bank and IMF. Official U.S. Government economic assistance through the Support for Eastern European Democracy (SEED) was relatively limited and focused on financial markets. The program officially ended in September 1997. Although some follow-on activities continue, technical assistance is provided largely without official AID intermediation. The Ljubljana stock exchange was established in 1989 as the first stock exchange in Eastern Europe. Until the recently ended mass privatization of Slovenian economy, the stock exchange did not play an important role. Market capitalization has grown strongly in recent years, a trend that should continue as the culmination of the privatization program brings increasing supply to market.

Transportation Automobiles Like in most of Europe, compact or smaller cars are preferred because of their ease in parking, fuel economy, and resale value. Any standard-make European or Asianmake car is suitable. There are a great number and variety of mechanical repair stations for most types of cars. Chrysler and Ford are the two American car companies represented in Slovenia. Unleaded gasoline is readily available. All cars brought into the Republic of Slovenia must have a factoryinstalled catalytic converter; ar older car that cannot be equipped

Slovenia

Cities of the World with a catalytic converter cannot be used. Registration fees are about $200 for a compact/small car and $300 for vans, depending on type of engine. Slovene law requires that cars be equipped with a European first-aid kit, triangle emergency breakdown marker (available locally), a set of spare fuses and bulbs. On trips to nearby Croatia, a rope for emergency vehicle towing is also required. Additional obligatory equipment for winter includes: tire chains; small shovel; small bag of sand; and, a blanket. Snow tires, or radial tires, are recommended for winter driving. A U.S. drivers license accompanied by a diplomatic identity card serves as a valid drivers license in the Republic of Slovenia. Locally purchased third-party-liability insurance is required for all vehicles. Every car shipped to Slovenia must pass a technical inspection prior to purchase of this insurance and temporary insurance must be purchased to cover this interim period. This temporary insurance costs between 7,000 and 15,000 SIT ($42 and $92), depending on the size of the engine. Traffic moves on the right. Road signs and traffic rules are similar to those used throughout Europe. During winter, roads are adequately cleared of snow and ice. Traffic within city limits can get surprisingly heavy at times but is generally light compared to most major U.S. cities. On major freeways, traffic delays are unusual except during the summer vacation period, July through September, when long delays can be experienced, especially at border crossings.

Local The public bus system in Ljubljana is excellent. Because of the shortage of parking downtown, many commute by bus. In general, buses run from 6:00 a.m. to midnight. A onetime ticket costs 140 SIT ($.85); tokens which are sold in any post office or kiosk are 80 SIT ($.50).

Taxis are available either by telephone or at taxi stands. Bicycles are also widely used for in-city commuting.

Regional There is train and bus service throughout Slovenia and to neighboring countries. The road system is excellent, though the highway system is still under construction in some areas. Ljubljana has one international airport (Brrnik) with flights to and from major European cities.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Within Slovenia, telephone calls are very inexpensive but calls to other countries are much more expensive than in the U.S. Several international companies provide international callback services at reasonable prices. There is no provision for calling card use in Slovenia.

Mail The international mail in Slovenia is reliable.

Radio and TV There are several Slovenian television channels: one national TV station with two channels and several private TV stations. A regular antenna will pick up local stations that carry English-language TV shows and films, with subtitles in Slovene. Most areas have access to cable TV, which provides over 30 channels, including CNN, TNT, BBC, and the Discovery Channel. There are numerous radio stations, both public and private.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Slovenia has four daily newspapers: Delo (Work), Dnevnik (Daily), Vecer (Evening), and Slovenska novice (Slovenia News). Some three dozen weeklies, biweeklies, and monthlies cover topics as diverse as agriculture, finance, and women's fashion. There are no locally published English-language newspapers, though Vitrum publishes a good political and business newsletter

called Slovenia Weekly and a magazine devoted to tourism, leisure and the arts called Flaneur. The International Herald Tribune provides same-day delivery service. Other English-language newspapers and magazines are available at newsstands.

Internet Among the frequently accessed sites in Slovenia are: http://www.ijs.si/slo, A Guide to Virtual Slovenia, and http:// www.arnes.si, Academic and Research Network of Slovenia.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities In general, medical services in Slovenia are excellent. The principal medical institution is The University Clinical Medical Center in Ljubljana. It is a diagnostic, therapeutic, research center that also serves as an educational base for the School of Medicine of the University of Ljubljana. Dental facilities are adequate.Slovene dentists do not routinely practice preventive care as is common in the U.S.

Community Health Tap water is potable. Sterilized long-life and fresh milk is available. Raw fruits and vegetables are safe to eat using the precautions one would normally follow in the U.S. Sewage and garbage disposal treatment is adequate. Antibiotics, allergy medication and all other prescription medication are available at local pharmacies. Regularly used prescription medication can be renewed through the mail system using the diplomatic po uch s erv ic e. Som e ove r-th ec o u n t e r m e d i c i n e i s av a i l a b l e locally.

Preventive Measures For those persons who engage in outdoor activities, a vaccine to pre535

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vent tick-borne encephalitis is recommended.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs and Duties Travel to Ljubljana is very easy, by air, train, bus, or car from any of the major European cities. Since no American air carrier flies direct from the U.S. to Ljubljana, connections are made in Vienna, Frankfurt, or Zurich. Slovene Adria Airways flies to most major European cities. A valid passport is required for entry into Slovenia. A visa is not required for a tourist/business stay up to 90 days. For further information on entry requirements for Slovenia, travelers may contact the Embassy of Slovenia at 1525 New Hampshire Avenue, NW, Washington, D.C. 20036, Tel: (202) 667-5363, or the Consulate General of Slovenia in New York City, Tel: (2l2) 3703006. The website of the Slovenian Embassy in the United States is http://www.embassy.org/slovenia/. Americans living in or visiting Slovenia are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Ljubljana to obtain updated information on travel and security within Slovenia. The U.S. Embassy is located at Presernova 31, Ljubljana 1000, Tel: (386)(1) 200-5500 or Fax: (386)(1) 200-5535. The Embassy website address is http://www.usembassy.si

Pets All dogs and cats entering Slovenia must be accompanied by a certificate of good health bearing the seal of your local board of health and signed by a veterinarian. This certificate must be issued not more than 10 days prior to the animal's arrival. A veterinarian meets the animal at the airport upon arrival and checks all these health papers before allowing entry through the customs. There is also a 3-week inhouse quarantine period. The quar536

antine period ends after a stool examination and an inspection by a veterinarian.

Anderlic, Joze and Zadnikar, Marjan (trans. DanicaDolenc). Religious Art in Slovenia. (Koper: Ognjisce, 1986)

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Arnez, John A. Slovenia in European Affairs: Reflections on Slovenian Political History. (1958)

The official currency unit of the Republic of Slovenia is the tolar, abbreviated “SIT,” which is divided into denominations of 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, and 10, with coins in denominations of 5, 2, and 1 SIT. The currency is relatively stable, with current exchange rates of approximately US$1=SIT 160. Unfortunately, most ATM machines in Slovenia only accept cards from Slovene banks, which prohibits foreigners from using their ATM cards while here. Occasionally, the ATM machine at the airport will accept a foreign card, but it only works sporadically. Credit cards are increasingly accepted, as more and more establishments obtain permission to use them. The metric system of weights and measures is used.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 & 2 . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Feb. 8 . . . . . . . . . . .Slovenian Cultural Holiday Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* April 27 . . . . . . . . .Resistance Day May 1 & 2 . . . . . . .Labor Day June 25 . . . . . . . . .Slovenian National Day Aug. 15. . . . . . . . . .Assumption Day Oct. 31 . . . . . . . . . .Reformation Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .All Saints’ Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .Independence Day *variable

Arnez, John A. Slovenian Lands and Their Economies, 1848-1873. (1983) Banac, Ivo. The National Question in Yugoslavia: Origins, History and Politics. (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1984) Barker, Thomas M. (with Andreas Moritsch). The Slovene Minority in Carinthia. (New York: Columbia University Press, 1984) Benderly, Jill and Kraft, Evan (eds.). Independent Slovenia: Origins, Movements, Prospects. (New York: St. Martin's Press, 1994) Burkhardt, Francois; Eveno, Claudio; and Podrecca, Boris (eds.). Joze Plecnik, Architect: 18721957. (Cambridge, Massachusetts: MIT Press, 1989). Conceptions and Strategy of the Development of Education: Education Modernization Programme in Republic Slovenia until 2000. (Ljubljana: Zavodrepublike Slovenije za solstvo, May 1990) Fallon, Steve, Slovenia: a Lonely Planet travel survival kit (The best and only English travel guide to Slovenia.) Financial Times Survey: Slovenia. Financial Times (30 March 1998) Gelt, Draga. The Slovenians from the Earliest Times. (Victoria, Australia: Coordinating Committee of Slovenian Organizations, 1985) Harriman, Helga. Slovenia Under Nazi Occupation 1941-1945 . (New York and Washington: Studia Slovenica, 1977)

RECOMMENDED READING

Hocevar, Toussaint. The Economic History of Slovenia, 1828-1918. (New York: Society for Slovene Studies Documentation Series, No. 4, 1978)

These titles are provided as an indication of the material published on Slovenia.

Joze Plecnik, 1872-1957. Architecture and the City. (Oxford: Oxford Polytechnic -Urban Design, 1983)

Slovenia

Cities of the World Kuhar, Aloysius L. The Conversion of the Slovenes and the GermanSlav Ethnic Boundary in the Eastern Alps. (New York and Washington: Studia Slovenica, 1959) Kuhar, Aloysius L. Slovene Medieval History: Selected Studies. (New York and Washington: Studia Slovenica, 1962) Lencek, Rado L. The Structure and History of the Slovene Language. (Columbus, Ohio: Slavica PublisLoncar, Dragotin (translated by Anthony Klancar). The Slovenes: A Social History (From the Earliest Times to 1910). (Cleveland: Jugoslav Printing and Publishing Co., 1939)hers, 1982)

Menase, Lev (ed.). Art Treasures of Slovenia. (Belgrade: Jugoslovenska revija, 1981)

Slovenija. (Quarterly magazine) (Ljubljana: Slovenska izseljenska matica)

Novak, Bodgan. Trieste, 1941-54: The Ethnic, Political, and Ideological Struggle. (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1970)

Stele, France (ed.). Slovene Impressionists. (St. Paul, Minnesota: Control Data Arts; Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1980)

Singleton, Fred. A Short History of the Yugoslav Peoples. (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1985)

Thompson, Mark. A Paper House: The Ending of Yugoslavia. New York: Pantheon (1993)

Slovene Studies. Scholarly journal, published annually in English since 1979) Slovenia Business Report. (Monthly magazine) (Ljubljana: Gospodarski vestnik) Slovenia for Everyone. Ljubljana: Government Public Relations and Media Office (1993)

Tollefson, James. The Language Situation and Language Policy in Slovenia. (Washington, DC: University Press of America, 1981) Treasure Chest of Slovenia. (Ljubljana: Cankarjeva zalozba/Mladinska knjiga, 1988). Winner, Irene. A Slovenian Village: Zerovnica. (Providence, Rhode Island: Brown University (Press, 1971)

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Madrid, Spain

SPAIN Kingdom of Spain

Major Cities: Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, Bilbao, Valencia, Málaga, Saragossa

Other Cities: Badajoz, Badalona, Burgos, Cádiz, Cartagena, Castellón de la Plana, Córdoba, Gijón, Granada, La Coruña, León, Logroño, Murcia, Oviedo, Pamplona, Salamanca, San Sebastián, Santander, Toledo, Valladolid, Vigo, Zamora

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated February 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION SPAIN, after nearly four decades of dictatorship, is now enjoying an official parliamentary democracy under the leadership of King Juan Carlos I, who acceded to the long-vacant throne in 1975. Serious political disputes have arisen in the ensuing years, and continuing tension in the Basque region has threatened national stability, but basic freedoms are guaranteed and the general popularity of the government is a recognized fact. 1992 was a banner year for Spain. The summer Olympics were held in Barcelona; Expo ‘92, a world’s fair, took place in Seville, and Madrid was designated the cultural capital of Europe for 1992. Nationwide

observances marked the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ discovery of America and the contributions of Jewish and Arab cultures to Spain were celebrated. Ernest Hemingway described Spain as “the country I love most, after my own.” The timeless beauty of the land is reflected best in its architectural monuments built by the many civilizations that have formed its history. Spain’s musical heritage has always been important to its people, from the classical composers to folk music and the distinctive flamenco tradition. Spaniards, despite their centralized government, display great regional diversity, and cling to the customs which have given them a unique quality among their European neighbors.

MAJOR CITIES Madrid Madrid, the capital of Spain, is in the center of the Iberian Peninsula at an elevation of 2,150 feet. The city sits on a large plateau bordered by the distant mountain peaks of the Sierras of Guadarrama and Gredos and by the mountains of Toledo. Madrid is located in the northern part of the region of Castile La Man-

cha (also known as New Castile)— the territory of Spain inhabited by the fictional Don Quixote of Miguel de Cervantes. The plateau region is high and dry, and the soil is rocky and sandy. A short distance from Madrid, the topography changes: The valleys become greener and the soil more fertile. The topography of Madrid and its environs resembles the foothill regions of the Rocky Mountains at about the same altitude as Salt Lake City. The current population is almost 2.9 million. A modern and cosmopolitan city, Madrid is the seat of Spanish culture and tradition. Characterized today by tall, modern buildings and wide, traffic-filled boulevards, the city still retains some of its history in the old buildings and narrow streets of the central section. For a city of its size, Madrid has few large industries. The Spanish Government is the largest single employer. The trucking industry, local construction companies, and various light manufacturing firms are major local employers. As the seat of government and the location of the head offices of most of the country’s businesses, Madrid has a large number of administrative and clerical workers. The general level of education in the city is high. 539

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Cities of the World dresses are uncommon except at a few formal functions. Quality nylon stockings and pantyhose are best purchased in the U.S. Excellent quality women’s accessories, such as leather handbags and gloves, can also be purchased locally. Children: Children’s play clothes available in Madrid stores are attractive but prohibitively expensive.

Supplies and Services

© Carl and Ann Purcell/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Leaning Columbus Towers in Madrid, Spain

Madrid has a large community of foreign residents. About 30,000 Americans are registered with U.S. consulates throughout Spain, the largest group of whom live in Madrid. Most are permanent residents. About 700 American employees and family members comprise the U.S. Mission. A large number of American tourists visit Spain, but most do not register with the U.S. Embassy. April through November is the busiest tourist season.

Food Fresh food is plentiful and the variety is excellent in Spain. Meat and poultry, fish and shellfish, cheese and other dairy products, and fresh fruits and vegetables—both domestically grown and imported—are of high quality and, in some cases, priced lower than in Washington, D.C. Fresh food markets are scattered around the city. There are large and small supermarkets and small family-run grocery stores everywhere.

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city, and tailored jeans are the preferred mode of dress of many Madrilenos, especially young people. Madrilenos are highly fashion conscious, as the abundance of international and local designer shops in Madrid’s better shopping areas demonstrates. Both winter and summer office clothing worn in Washington, D.C., is appropriate in Madrid, although dark colors tend to prevail here. In summer, sport shorts are worn primarily at the beach and are rarely seen on the streets. Good-quality ready-made clothing for the entire family is available locally, but at higher prices than in the U.S. Handsome Spanish-made leather shoes and boots for both women and men are also available in most standard sizes at prices comparable to those in the U.S.

Clothing

Men: Suits and conservative sports coats and dark slacks are acceptable business attire for men. Men wear dark business suits for evening entertainment.

As in most capitals of Europe and large, cosmopolitan U.S. cities, public appearance is very important to the Madrilenos, many of whom dress with care even for their daily shopping expeditions. At the same time, casual wear is as varied on the streets of Madrid as in any large

Women: Women wear tailored suits and dresses interchangeably during the day, both in offices and on the street. Skirt lengths are fashionable and a matter of personal preference. In the evenings, business suits and conservative dresses are worn. Long

A wide variety (and most international brands) of toiletries and cosmetics are sold locally but are more expensive than in the U.S. Individuals who prefer particular brands should bring a good supply of them or be prepared to pay the slightly higher European prices. Many home medicines and drugs are available in a European or Spanish equivalent in local pharmacies, and in some cases under brand names familiar to Americans as well. Most first-aid necessities and other basic home remedy items (aspirin, vitamins, cold medicines) are sold throughout the city. Tailoring and dressmaking shops are found in most locations throughout the city. Home service is available. As everywhere, quality is usually commensurate with price. The city has many boutiques where high-fashion clothing for men and women is available. Prices are usually higher than in the U.S. Local laundries are expensive, and delivery time can be lengthy. Local dry-cleaning is good and available everywhere. Prices are high, about 50% more than in the U.S. Cleaning usually takes 2 or 3 days with an extra charge for express service. Shoe repair in Madrid is good and reasonably priced. Hairdressers for men and women are numerous and excellent, and, as in big cities everywhere, prices range from reasonable to very expensive.

Religious Activities Catholic churches are found throughout the city, in almost all

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Cities of the World neighborhoods. Houses of worship that offer services in English include Catholic churches, several Protestant churches, a Jewish synagogue, and a mosque.

Education The American School of Madrid (ASM) is a coeducational day school providing instruction in English at preschool, kindergarten, primary, and secondary levels. Spanish language classes are offered at all levels. ASM offers Advanced Placement courses and is currently in the process of becoming affiliated with the International Baccalaureate (IB) program, with the intention of offering the full IB diploma beginni ng Septem ber 1 995 . ASM is located in Pozuelo de Alarcon, a residential suburb on the west side of Madrid. Morning and afternoon buses transport students. Curriculum and teaching methods follow the American pattern; the school is accredited to the Middle States Association, and transfer credits are readily accepted by U.S. schools. Many of the 600 students at ASM are children of American businesspeople in Madrid. Spanish students and students of other nationalities also attend. Boarding facilities are not provided. ASM requires copies of a prospective student’s academic record from the past 3 school years and reports of recent standardized test scores. Once these are received by the school, the final application process can begin. For further information, contact the Office of Admissions, American School of Madrid (international telephone 341-357-2154, fax 341-358-2678). The American School of Madrid’s mailing address is Apartado 80, 28020 Madrid. In addition to ASM, several Britishrun schools in Madrid offer instruction in English following the British educational system.

based on American and British study programs for children from nursery school through grade 6. Madrid also has a Montessori school and educational opportunities for children with learning disabilities. There are also German, French, and Italian schools in Madrid. Spanish elementary and secondary education is directed by the Spanish Ministry of Education and Science. Under the educational reform law of 1970, a more flexible system theoretically gives each student the right to advance according to ability. Primary school, called Educacion General Basica, is obligatory and consists of 8 years of schooling from ages 6 to 13. High school, Bachillerato, is 3 years of schooling from 14 to 16 years of age. Those students desiring a technical education go directly from Educacion General Basica to technical schools. For students going on to universities, 1 year of pre-university education (Curso de Orientacion Universitaria) is required. Public primary and secondary schools are few; many parents send their children to private schools. A number of Catholic religious orders run private schools in Madrid. Both public and private school instruction is in Spanish; American students who are not fully fluent in Spanish may experience difficulties.

Special Educational Opportunities To make the most of a stay in Spain, knowledge of Spanish is essential. Good private tutoring and language schools are available. English-language courses in Spanish history and art are available. Most Spanish universities offer Spanish-language summer courses for foreigners in Spanish language, history, literature, and culture. The Complutense University of Madrid offers such courses all year long. Tuition costs are reasonable.

Sports Many neighborhood nursery schools are available, including a number of British schools. The International Primary School offers a curriculum

Madrid and its suburbs offer limited opportunities for sports comparable to those of other major cities. Golf, tennis, swimming, shooting, horse-

back riding, and skiing are available, mostly in private clubs. A number of clubs provide tennis, squash, golf, and swimming. Most are expensive by U.S. standards. The most exclusive club is the Real Club Puerta de Hierro, which has a 27-hole golf course, tennis courts, a swimming pool, riding stables, and a polo field. The attractive clubhouse offers bar and dining service, a large club room, and some living quarters. The club is accessible only by car. The Ciudad Deportiva del Real Madrid Club de Futbol y Tenis offers excellent tennis and swimming facilities. This club also sponsors the Real Madrid soccer team. Monthly dues and hourly rates are substantial. Memberships are individual; family members must pay guest rates. A small shooting club, the Sociedad Tiro de Pichon, is close to Madrid and is popular with skeet and target shooting enthusiasts. Fees are prohibitive. The most popular Spanish spectator sports are basketball and soccer. Bullfighting is considered more art and culture than pure sport but is extremely popular throughout Spain. Other spectator sports worthy of note are motor sports and cycling, horse racing, and jai alai, a game held to be Basque in origin. Running is a sport with a growing number of Spanish enthusiasts, although Madrid’s chronic traffic and parking problems do not lend themselves to recreational jogging along city streets.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Commercial sight-seeing tours to nearby places of interest are available daily. Spain’s Royal Automobile Club (RACE) has the best information and maps for motoring trips in Spain. The club provides service to members of the U.S. AAA without payment of additional fees. RACE fees are nominal. 541

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From Madrid there are numerous historic and picturesque towns and villages to visit that make interesting weekend or day trips. Spain also o f f e r s Pa r a d o r s, a c h a i n o f state-owned hotels, many housed in historic monasteries, castles, and other enticing settings. A number of locations on the city’s outskirts offer riding. The mountains north of Madrid offer mountain climbing and hiking. Several Spanish clubs organize climbs and maintain mountain huts. Serious climbers should bring equipment. Excellent facilities can be found for fishing (trout, salmon, black bass, and great northern pike) and hunting (partridge, duck, hare, wild boar, deer, rabbit, and mountain goat). The Spanish fish with wet flies much more than dry and also use spoons and spinners. Suitable equipment can be obtained locally. Nylon filament fly lines are available locally, but bring tapered line from the U.S. European reels are less expensive than in the U.S. Most shotguns on the local market are double barreled, either side by side or over and under. Good-quality Spanish shotguns are inexpensive. Excellent quality shotguns made by world-famous Spanish gunsmiths are sold but are not available at bargain prices. Inexpensive bus and train service is available in season to ski areas in the Guadarrama mountains north of Madrid (about an hour’s drive). Other excellent ski resorts can be found in Aragon, the Pyrenees, and the Sierra Nevada chain in the south. Ski equipment can be rented at most Spanish resorts, but quality varies. Ski equipment, boots, and clothing can be bought in Madrid, but all good-quality equipment and clothing are imported and expensive.

the original language, or “version original.” Madrid has a lively theater scene. Productions of the Madrid theaters are quite good, and Spanish literature aficionados will discover a constant reviving and staging of the classics. During the season, there are several subscription concert series in Madrid’s new concert hall complex, including weekly concerts by the National Symphony Orchestra of Spain. Several chamber music groups give concerts during the winter and spring season. The opera season is January through July. Season tickets to the opera are so scarce that, in recent years, they have been distributed through a lottery. Despite the scarcity of tickets and the enormous popularity of opera, the most expensive tickets for individual performances are often available at the box office just before performance time. Madrid is a frequent stop on the tour itineraries of most well-known international performing arts groups, and the calendar is filled throughout the year, especially during the summer a n d d u r i n g M a d r i d ’s A u t u m n Festival. Restaurants are plentiful and varied in every price range. Several restaurant/clubs feature “tablao flamenco” with flamenco dancing and singing. Historical sights and museums provide almost endless diversion. The world-famous Prado Museum is considered one of the finest painting galleries in the world and features works by the best Spanish painters as well as by artists of the most important foreign schools, particularly Italian and Flemish, from the 14th to 19th centuries. Spanish painting from the 19th century can be seen at Prado Annex, El Cason del Buen Retiro.

Entertainment Madrid movie houses show Spanish, American, and other foreign films. While the majority of foreign films are dubbed with a Spanish soundtrack, many are also shown in 542

The renowned Thyssen-Bornemisza collection of art is now housed in the restored Villahermosa Palace near the Prado. This formerly private collection, now the property of Spain,

contains masterpieces from 500 years of Western art, including one of Europe’s best sampling of American painting of the 19th and 20th centuries. Nearby is the Reina Sofia Museum of Contemporary Art, which houses a permanent collection of Spain’s modern masters, including Picasso’s famous work “Guernica.” Other fine museums are the homes of Cervantes, Lope de Vega, and the painter Sorolla; the Archaeological Museum; the Romantic Museum; the Museum of Decorative Art; the Lazaro Galdiano Museum; Cerralbo, the Instituto de Valencia de Don Juan; the Museum Las Descalzas Reales; the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts; the Municipal Museum; and the Royal Tapestry Factory. Madrid and the surrounding cities make excellent subjects for photographers. Holy Week processions are held in many Spanish towns, but those in Seville are noted for their color, brilliance, and religious enthusiasm. The Spring Fair in Seville in April has festivities that last almost a week. During this period, however, Seville is very crowded, and lodgings are expensive and hard to find. One of Spain’s most popular fiestas is held in Valencia, March 17–19. Large allegorical wood and papier-mache sculptures known as “fallas” are built in the streets. Prizes are awarded to those judged best. At the end of the fair, on the night of March 19, the sculptures are burned in huge bonfires to the accompaniment of spectacular fireworks. The Fair of San Fermin in Pamplona, July 6–12, is famous. It is here that young men run through the streets chased by fighting bulls. Madrid has a number of “verbenas” (carnivals) held in the open in specially designated locations. The feast of St. Anthony takes place on June 13; others are the Verbena de Paloma and the Verbena de la Carmen. Each carnival is devoted to a different saint and district. The fes-

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Cities of the World tivals are popular with Spaniards and provide interesting entertainment. Local fairs take place in many towns on special feast days, and most include dances and bull fights.

Social Activities Social activities in Madrid tend to be defined by fluency in Spanish. Clearly, persons with an ease of fluency will make Spanish friends more easily among their neighbors and professional contacts. Madrid has an American Club composed of resident Americans and Spaniards and third-country business representatives and professionals. The club holds luncheons with speakers, r o u n d t a b l e s, d a n c e s, t h e a t e r nights, and other events. As an international city, Madrid is composed of people of all nationalities, so many opportunities are available to meet other foreign nationals. Sporting clubs, cultural and business groups, and various other associations offer opportunities to establish international contacts.

Barcelona Barcelona was founded by the Carthaginians in about 680 B.C. It is Spain’s second largest city, with a population of nearly 1.5 million (it claims first place in terms of metropolitan area population and is one of the world’s most densely populated cities). It also is the country’s leading industrial trade center, and the largest port. A referendum in 1979 approved Spanish and Catalan as Catalonia’s official languages. Most inhabitants of Catalonia understand and speak both languages, but the regional government has been increasing the use of Catalan, which had been banned from official use and in the schools for 40 years under Franco. Situated on a plain between the Llobregat and Besós Rivers, and lying between the mountains and the sea, Barcelona’s climate is temperate and usually pleasant, although relatively high humidity makes the

City of Barcelona and harbor

warm summer and cold winter days more pronounced. Winter and early spring months often bring heavy rainfall, but snow and freezing temperatures are rare. Barcelona is Spain’s cultural center. It is a modern, beautiful city, with new buildings, broad avenues, and bustling traffic. The old city has narrow, winding streets, where some Roman walls are still visible. There are many historic landmarks, including the Cathedral of Santa Aulalia (built in the 14th and 15th centuries), the city hall, and the Lonja (exchange). There are more than 8,000 registered Americans in the district. American tourism is heavy, particularly during summer.

Education Many good schools are available in the Barcelona area; however, in most of them, instruction is in Spanish and Catalan, and students must be fluent in these languages. In higher grades, a curriculum very different from that in the U.S. is followed. Entry may be complicated by difficulty in validating previous study for acceptance in the Spanish system. Most American children attend the Benjamin Franklin International School, the American

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

School of Barcelona, the Kensington School, the Anglo-American School, or St. Peter’s School. The Benjamin Franklin International School, established in September 1986, provides an American education for students aged three through 18 years. Students are prepared to continue their studies in both Spanish and/or American universities. The current enrollment is 280; one-third are American. The school is a nonprofit organization governed by a board of trustees and a board of governors and is affiliated with the European Council of International Schools and the State Department Office of Overseas Schools among others. It receives consulting services from the Superintendent of the Unified School District of Carmel, CA, and from the Director or ASM. The school uses advanced North American educational techniques, modern U.S. textbooks, audiovisual support systems, and special educational materials. The director and most of the teaching staff are American, with the exception of those teaching subjects requiring foreign national teachers. Facilities include a 5,000- volume library, science and computer labs, and an art room. 543

Spain Ninety percent of its graduates go on to attend college. American School of Barcelona, established in 1962, provides an education from pre-kindergarten through 12th grade. Incorporated in the State of Delaware, the school is a nonprofit, coeducational institution operated by an elected board of governors. An officer of the U.S. Consulate General here serves on the board. The principal, 50% of the faculty, textbooks, and curriculum are American. An additional 30% of the faculty are native English speakers; the remaining 20% are Spanish nationals who teach selected Spanish curriculum classes. In addition to normal academic subjects, Spanish, Catalan, music, art, and physical education are taught at all levels. Sports include baseball, basketball, soccer, and volleyball. Ceramics, art, chor al , a nd c o mp u te r cl as s e s ar e offered as extracurricular activities. Students are given yearly achievement tests, and seniors interested in university studies in the U.S. are given the college entrance examination and advanced placement tests. Ninety percent of graduates attend college. The current enrollment is 400. American School’s mailing address is: Pasaje Font del Lleo, s/n, Barcelona. The Kensington School, founded in 1966, is a privately owned, coeducational school which offers a British public school academic program for children aged five through 18. The school administers the college entrance examination and advanced placement tests to students interested in a U.S. university education. French and Spanish are taught as foreign languages, beginning at age 10. Laboratories and athletic facilities are available. Bus service is provided for a fee. The Anglo-American School, located at Castelldefels, a small coastal resort about 10 miles from Barcelona, is a coeducational, international school which provides instruction in English from kindergarten through the ninth grade. The school, which follows the British 544

Cities of the World educational system, was founded in 1956. Spanish is taught as a foreign language. Bus service is provided. The mailing address is: Paseo de Barbi 152, Castelldefels Playa, Barcelona. St. Peter’s School, a privately owned, coeducational academy established in 1964, provides instruction from the nursery school level through age 14, or the equivalent of ninth grade. Following the British educational system, all classes are taught in English, with instruction in Spanish as a foreign language until age 11. After that time, all classes are in Spanish, with English as a foreign language. Bus service is available; uniforms are compulsory. In addition, several other schools are popular in the American community, particularly those for younger children, although they do not provide instruction in English. Among them are St. Paul’s, and the French, German, and Swiss schools. Private language lessons in Spanish and Catalan are offered by the Institute of North American Studies and other private schools. The University of Barcelona offers a popular course for foreigners which begins in October and consists of classes in the language, history, and culture of Spain.

Recreation and Entertainment Barcelona has a broad historic and cultural tradition. Impressive museums and ecclesiastical structures are found throughout the city, particularly in the old town, and the artistic and architectural heritage of Catalonia is distinct. The Jewish quarter of Girona flourishes here. Barcelona and its environs offer many opportunities for an active sports life. Golf, tennis, swimming, water-skiing, sailing, hunting, fishing, horseback riding, and winter sports are found in the city or within a few hours’ drive. Many opportunities are available in the area for weekend tours and sight-seeing activities. The area has

large amusement parks on Montjuich and Tibidabo, the hills which cradle the city. Montjuich was the site of the 1929 World’s Fair. Barcelona offers a variety of fine entertainment, including opera, ballet, and many excellent concerts. Local theaters present plays, light opera, and musical comedy. Motion pictures are popular, but most films are dubbed in Spanish. The Institute of North American Studies offers a movie in English occasionally, as well as many other fine artistic and musical presentations. Many interesting local festivals, both religious and secular, are held throughout the year. The Gothic Quarter is well known for its small, narrow, winding streets and picturesque shops. Americans can join many clubs in Barcelona. Among the most active is the American Women’s Club which sponsors a number of social events. The American Society of Barcelona was founded in 1974. An active Navy League chapter exists here.

Seville Greater Seville (population 701,000) is the largest and most important city in Andalucía, Spain’s richest agricultural region. Its history spans many centuries, beginning with colonization by the Phoenicians through occupation by the Romans (third century B.C.), Vandals (fifth century), Visigoths (sixth century), and Arabs (eighth century). The Moorish occupation ended in 1248 when the city was taken for the emerging modern Spanish nation by King Ferdinard II of Castile. During the colonial period of the Americas, Seville had a monopoly on New World trade and was the center of the intellectual and economic life of Spain. Today, even centuries after the Christian conquest of Seville, the city reflects a harmonious blend of Western European and Middle Eastern cultural patterns and bloodlines.

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Cities of the World The central city is characterized by tiny plazas and narrow, winding streets. Some streets in the Barrio de Santa Cruz, a quarter where the Moorish and Jewish residents were forced to live after the reconquest, can be traversed only by foot or horse cart. In that picturesque area, preserved as a national monument, one finds the more “typical” Sevillian atmosphere, where most homes and shops are fitted with elaborate wrought iron gates and windows that look into patios filled with potted flowers and ferns. Elsewhere, public parks and gardens enhance the city’s array of massive architectural forms. Seville lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, 35 miles from its mouth on the Atlantic Ocean, and 26 feet above sea level. It has been an important commercial port for centuries, and is the country’s only inland harbor for oceangoing vessels. The city is the site of one of the finest educational institutions in Spain, the University of Seville, whose courses in literature, history, and Spanish-American relations are of special interest. Seville is not a city of foreign colonies. Practically no American business community exists here, although American firms are well represented by local Spanish agents. The climate is hot and dry in summer, pleasant in spring and fall, and damp and chilly in winter. From June to September, the temperature often exceeds 100°F and, on winter nights, sometimes fall below freezing. Temperatures can vary as much as 20 degrees between day and night.

Education Good private schools are available in Seville for Spanish-speaking children from kindergarten through high school. Some children are enrolled in local private schools; however, Americans are experiencing difficulty registering in the better schools as demand for

enrollment exceeds space. Some parents have found that Spanish public schools do not provide adequate individual attention, since classes tend to be large (40 to 50 students). The University of Seville is one of the finest in Spain and offers a wide variety of liberal arts and professional programs. The courses in Spanish literature, history, and Spanish-American history and relations are of particular interest. An American liberal arts junior college, Columbus International, operates in Seville. The city has several English-language reading centers which charge nominal membership fees. English-language books are available in the main bookstores.

Recreation and Entertainment Among the outstanding buildings in Seville are the great Gothic cathedral, third largest in the Christian world, with its famed Moorish-Spanish bell tower, La Giralda; the Alcázar, Moorish royal palace; the Royal Tobacco Factory, made world famous through Bizet’s opera Carmen, and now used to house part of the University of Seville; and the Archives of the Indies, where the most important documents relating to the discovery and colonization of the Americas and the Philippines are preserved. Southern Spain offers many interesting places to visit on weekends. The beaches along the Atlantic Coast can be reached by car in less than two hours. The internationally popular resorts of the Costa del Sol are about three to four hours away by car. The ski slopes of Granada can be reached by a four-hour car trip. In addition, many small towns and cities of Andalucía are rich with history of the Moorish occupation and the colonization of the New Wo r l d . M o s t h i g h w a y s a r e adequate. Tennis, swimming, hunting, and horseback riding are the main sports in Seville, but facilities are available only under the auspices of one of the sports clubs.

Seville has many good movie houses offering current U.S. and European films dubbed in Spanish. During winter and spring, cultural events include concerts, plays, and dance recitals. The city sponsors several cultural festivals during the year which offer fine entertainment at reasonable prices. Sevillian cultural life, however, centers on the family and church, and the city can be best described as quiet, charming, and somewhat provincial. Several discotheques and nightclubs in Seville offer modern and flamenco dancing. Bullfights and soccer (fútbol) are extremely popular, and the local sporting events are first-quality. Seville has five radio stations and two television channels. U.S. TV sets must be converted to European standards. Holy Week processions are held in many Spanish towns, but those in Seville are noted for their color and religious enthusiasm. The Holy Week ceremonies (ferias mayores) are characterized by processions of robed and hooded members of the city’s numerous religious brotherhoods, accompanied by elaborate religious floats carried by teams of stevedores. During these periods, the city is crowded, lodgings are hard to find, and prices are double or higher. Within two weeks of Holy Week, the annual April Fair (Feria de Abril) is celebrated. It consists of six days of festivities, including daily horse parades, a trade fair, a carnival, a number of circuses, a series of bullfights, and dancing and socializing in casetas (small houses) until early morning. Seville has an American Women’s Club composed of both Spanish and A m e r i c a n m e m b e r s. T h e c l u b devotes itself to fund raising and charitable works as well as to luncheons, tours, and other activities. 545

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Bilbao Bilbao, capital of the Province of Vizcaya, has a population of 354,000; inclusion of the adjacent metropolitan area brings that figure to almost one million. Bilbao is in the narrow Nervión River valley, about 10 miles inland from the Bay of Biscay. In many ways, it resembles comparable industrial cities in mountainous areas of the U.S., such as Pittsburgh, with the added charm of “old Bilbao” and its crowded, maze-like siete calles. Bilbao’s latitude is roughly that of Boston, but moist winds off the bay bring relatively cool summers and mild winters with mostly above-freezing temperatures. Rainfall averages 55 inches a year. Because of temperature inversion and smoke from the factories, the skies are frequently overcast, and air pollution is recognized as a serious problem. Bilbao is the largest city in Euzkadi, or Basque, country. Ethnically, culturally, and linguistically, the Basques consider themselves distinct from the rest of Spain. Their origins are unknown and, unlike other Spaniards, they were barely influenced by the Romans, and unconquered by the Moors. It is believed that they may be descendants of a late Paleolithic civilization. They are generally a serious, hard-working, religious people with close family ties. Although only a small portion of the urban population still speaks the ancient tongue, most Basques proudly maintain their individuality.

Education Bilbao has a number of private colegios (schools providing education through high school) operated by Catholic religious orders. Instruction is in Spanish, which means a difficult adjustment for an American child without a good knowledge of the language. A summer or semester of intensive Spanish tutoring privately, or at the small Berlitz school in Bilbao should prepare an American child for this educational experience. Colegios are not coedu546

cational. The school year follows the U.S. academic schedule. The American School of Bilbao, in the suburb of Berango, offers an American curriculum in English from kindergarten through eighth grade. Organized by the American community in 1967 as a nonprofit coeducational institution, the school now seeks the majority of its students from the local community, since several large American firms have left the Bilbao area. Currently most of the 266 students are Spanish. The principal is American and teachers are qualified English-speaking instructors. Bus service is provided. A parent-teacher organization organizes activities. The U.S. State Department provides a small subsidy to the school. The mailing address is: Apartado 38, Las Arenas, Vizcaya. Gaztelueta, near Las Arenas, is one of the better private Spanish-language boys’ schools. It offers many extras, such as sports and music, as well as a sound education along lines of the Spanish bachillerato, including instruction in English. Girls may attend the Irish Nuns School in Lejona. The school offers t h e S p a n i s h b a ch i l l e r a t o a n d instruction is in Spanish. Normally a waiting list precedes admission. Students with adequate language preparation may be interested in the French and German schools. The Instituto Francés offers the bachillerato elemental for boys and girls in Spanish and French. The German School, also coeducational, offers a secondary education in German, as well as the Spanish bachillerato in Spanish and German. The school day in Spanish schools starts about 9 a.m. and ends between 6 and 7 p.m. American textbooks and correspondence study programs can be used to supplement studies at a colegio. Nearly all private schools offer bus transportation and organized athletic programs.

Two universities are located in Bilbao: the prestigious Jesuit-run University of Deusto which has commercial, law, philosophy, and science faculties and an institute of language studies; and the newer (1980) University of the Basque Country, which combines older, well-known faculties of economics and engineering of the former University of Bilbao, with newer faculties on a campus in the suburb of Lejona. To enroll in Spanish universities, students coming from the U.S. will need various documents, some of which should be validated at the Spanish Embassy or a consulate in the U.S. Interested adults can take lessons in Spanish cooking, decoration, crafts, and literature. Some universities offer summer courses for foreigners, including the prestigious Summer University of Menendez Pelayo in Santander. Private tutors are available to give Spanish-language classes, but at a high price. Several good art schools and galleries are available for painting enthusiasts.

Recreation and Entertainment Bilbao has limited sports facilities. Opportunities for golf, tennis, and swimming are available, but the climate does not lend itself easily to a great deal of outdoor activity. The city has a riding stable and boat mooring facilities. Spectator events include soccer, jai alai, and bullfights in summer. Skiing is good in the French Pyrenees, and both Spanish and French ski resorts are within a fourto-six hour drive. Candanchu, Formigal, and Baqueira-Beret are Spanish resorts similar to U.S. ski areas. Smaller, less expensive ski areas are within a two-hour drive at La Rioja, Santander, and Burgos. Hiking and mountain climbing are popular sports with the Basques, and many clubs promote weekend and longer trips.

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Cities of the World Inland fishing for trout and salmon is popular, especially in Oviedo and Santander. In season, some hunting is possible for birds, small game, and even an occasional wild boar. The Bay of Biscay provides opportunities for swimming and boating, although possibilities for sailing and water-skiing are limited. Several beaches may be reached within 15 to 25 miles of Bilbao. Since most, however, are near polluted rivers and streams, few are completely safe for swimming. A favorite swimming spot of resident Americans is the extensive beach area of Laredo in the Province of Cantabria, 75 miles from Bilbao. A number of Bilbao residents have bought new summer condominium apartments on the Laredo shoreline. Sea-fishing enthusiasts can join a yachting club in Legueitio, 37 miles from Bilbao. Bilbao has many movie theaters. All foreign films are dubbed in Spanish. Spanish plays and musical comedies are presented at fiesta time. Concerts are held during late fall, winter, and early spring. The Bilbao Symphony Orchestra and the new Euskadi Symphony Orchestra, based in San Sebastián, offer regular concert series. The Philharmonic Society, Conciertos Arriaga, and the Bank of Bilbao sponsor top-quality visiting artists. After the Semana Grande in late August, Bilbao has a brief season of zarzuela (Spanish operetta) and opera. The Opera Society offers a cycle of six operas featuring worldrenowned artists. Choral music is a local specialty offering frequent concerts and occasional visits by internationally known choral groups. The Sociedad Coral de Bilbao offers high-quality performances and welcomes foreigners. The American community in Bilbao is small, and few special activities are organized for Americans. The American International Women’s Club meets once each month and organizes charitable, social, and cultural activities. The American School of Bilbao Parent-Teacher

Organization sponsors frequent social events.

accompaniment of a stupendous fireworks display.

Valencia

Málaga

The picturesque city of Valencia is located in eastern Spain on the Turia River, 175 miles east of Madrid. With a population of about 739,000, Valencia is Spain’s third largest city. Situated in a fertile garden region near its busy Mediterranean port of El Grao on the Gulf of Valencia, Valencia is an important industrial and commercial center. Textiles, metal products, chemicals, furniture, and azulejos (colored tiles) are produced here.

Málaga, the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, lies on the fabulous Costa del Sol in southern Spain. Situated on the Bay of Málaga, it is one of the most important ports on the Spanish Mediterranean; from here, major exports are made of wine, olive oil, and almonds. The sweet Málaga wine produced in the surrounding region is known worldwide. Málaga’s mild climate and beautiful beaches, make it one of Andalucía’s busiest and most popular resorts.

Historically, Valencia was a Roman city as early as the second century B.C. It belonged to the Moors from the eighth through the 13th century. The legendary El Cid, Spanish conqueror and national hero, ruled the city from 1094 to 1099. Valencia was taken by James I of Aragón in 1238, and then rose to a cultural and intellectual importance rivaling that of Barcelona. The university was founded in 1501 and, during that century, Valencia achieved scholarly and literary eminence. Today, Valencia is a popular winter resort, surrounded by fragrant orange groves. The old part of the city features blue-tiled church domes and narrow streets, while the modern section has tree-lined avenues and promenades. Landmarks include La Seo (a cathedral built in the 13th to 15th centuries) and its Gothic bell tower; the Torres de Serranos, 14th-century fortified towers built on Roman foundations; La Lonja, the Gothic silk exchange; and the Renaissance palace of justice. There is also a superb art gallery in the Convento de Pio V. One of Spain’s most popular fiestas is held in Valencia from March 17 through March 19. Large allegorical wood and papier-mâché sculptures known as fallas are built in the streets, with prizes awarded to the best. At the end of the fair, on the night of March 19, the sculptures are burned in huge bonfires to the

The city was founded in the 12th century B.C. by the Phoenicians, and later belonged to the Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, and Moors. It became an important seaport for the kingdom of Granada in the 13th century, falling to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain in 1487. Early in the 19th century, the city was briefly under French occupation. Today, Málaga has a population of 532,000. The city is mostly modern, but also has several historic buildings, including a 16th-century cathedral, a citadel, and the ruins of a Moorish fortified castle.

Saragossa The leading city of the Aragón region is Saragossa (in Spanish, Zaragoza). Located in northeast Spain, 185 miles from Madrid, Saragossa has a population of 605,000, making it the fifth largest city in the country. Situated in a fertile, irrigated agricultural region, it is an important commercial and communications center that manufactures wood products, foodstuffs, and paper. An early Roman city, Saragossa was originally named Caesarea Augusta by Emperor Augustus. The Goths conquered the city in the fifth century, and Moorish forces took it in the eighth century. The Moors 547

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Courtesy of Ellen Bowden

Street in Valencia

defeated Charlemagne in his bid to gain control of Saragossa in 778. Alfonso I of Aragón conquered the city in 1118 and made it the capital of his kingdom. Later, in the 19th century, Saragossa played an important role in the Peninsular War. Today, the city is a cultural center rich in Moorish-influenced art. Its university, founded in 1533, now has nearly 35,000 students. Landmarks include two cathedrals—La Seo, built in the 12th through 16th centuries and formerly a mosque; and El Pilar (built in the 17th century), containing frescoes by Antonio Velazquez (1723–1794) and Francisco José de Goya (1746– 1828).

OTHER CITIES Situated in a fertile agricultural region, BADAJOZ has a population of 136,000. Located in southwestern Spain near the Portuguese 548

border, Badajoz is 200 miles from Madrid. Food processing is the main industry here; the city is also actively involved in trade with Portugal. Historically, Badajoz was a fortress city that came to prominence in the 11th century as the seat of the Moorish empire. Badajoz’s numerous attacks through the centuries were the reason for its strong fortifications. Landmarks in the city include a 13th-century cathedral and the ruins of a Moorish citadel. BADALONA is a northeastern suburb of Barcelona, located five miles outside the city on the Mediterranean. This industrial center’s estimated 209,000 residents are employed in chemical, textile, leather goods, and liquor manufacture. Limited agricultural processing is also conducted. The 15th-century monastery of San Jerónimo de la Murtra is the city’s most striking landmark. A local museum contains Roman relics.

B U R G O S , 1 3 0 mi le s no r th o f Madrid, is situated in Old Castile on a mountainous plateau, at an altitude of 2,800 feet. With a population of about 163,000, Burgos is a trade center with a large tourist industry. As one of the ancient capitals of Castile, Burgos is known for its historic tradition and outstanding architecture. The city was also the birthplace of the Spanish hero, El Cid (1040–1099), who is buried here i n t h e c a t h e d r a l . B u r g o s wa s founded about 855, and was first the seat of the county of Castile and later the capital of the Castilian kingdom under Ferdinand I. The city’s cultural importance diminished when the royal residence was moved to Toledo. However, Burgos was the capital of Franco’s regime during the civil war of 1936 through 1939. The cathedral, begun in 1221, is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe. Constructed in white limestone, its lofty, filigree spires dominate the city’s skyline.

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Cities of the World CÁDIZ is situated in southwestern Spain, on a promontory just off the mainland on the Bay of Cádiz. With a population of 140,000, the city exports wine and other agricultural items, and imports coal, iron, and foodstuffs. Industries include fishing and shipbuilding. Cádiz is a clean, white city with palm-lined boulevards and parks. The Phoenicians founded a town here about 1100 B.C. and the port became a tin and silver market. In the third century B.C., it was taken by the Romans and flourished until the fall of Rome. The discovery of America revived Cádiz; many ships from America unloaded their cargoes here, and Christopher Columbus sailed from Cádiz on his second voyage across the Atlantic in 1495. When Seville’s port was partially blocked by a sandbar in 1718, Cádiz became the official center for New World trade. However, as Spain lost its colonies in America, Cádiz again declined in importance. Landmarks in the city include a 13th-century cathedral, originally built in Gothic style, but rebuilt in Renaissance form. Cádiz has several museums and an art gallery. Bartholome Murillo (1618–1682) fell from a scaffold to his death here while painting the Marriage of St. Catherine; the painting hangs in the church of the former Capuchin convent. CARTAGENA is the site of the country’s main Mediterranean naval base and the finest harbor on the east coast. The city is situated 28 miles south of Murcia, and has roughly 180,000 residents. Cartagena has smelting works, and manufactures glass and esparto (grass) fabrics. Its importance as a port diminished early in this century with the development of other large coastal cities. The Carthaginian general, Hasdrubal, founded Cartagena in the third century B.C. It flourished under the Romans as Carthago Nova. The Moors ruled the area from 711 to 1269, when it was taken by James I of Aragon. Philip II (1527–1598) made Cartagena a major naval port. Landmarks include a medieval Gothic cathedral and the ruins of the Castillo de la Concepción castle,

constructed over Roman foundations in the 12th century. Iberian, Greek, and Roman artifacts can be seen in an archaeological museum here. CASTELLÓN DE LA PLANA (also called Castellón) is a seaport and provincial capital. Located 40 miles northeast of Valencia in the east, the city has an estimated population of 142,000. Paper, porcelain, and wool are among manufactures here; tourism is a growing industry. Landmarks include the Gothic S an ta M ar ía Church, with its detached belfry, and a town hall, built in the 17th century. Castellón de la Plana was founded on nearby La Magdalena Hill. In 1251, its residents petitioned to have it moved to its present site on a plain near the Mediterranean. The city became the capital of Castellón Province in 1833. CÓRDOBA (also spelled Cordova) is located on the Guadalquivir River, 175 miles south of Madrid. Historically, Córdoba flourished under the Romans before passing to the Visigoths and Moors. In the eighth century, it became the seat of an independent emirate which included most of Muslim Spain. Córdoba was renowned as a Muslim and Jewish cultural center and was one of the greatest and wealthiest cities in all of Europe. Its noted mosque, begun in the eighth century, is among the finest examples of Muslim architecture. Known for its gold, silver, silk, and leather artistry, the city reached its peak under A b d a r -R a h a m I I I , b u t t h e n declined and was conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1236. In 1238, the mosque became a cathedral. Córdoba never regained its former splendor. The city’s modern industries include brewing, distilling, textile manufacturing, and metallurgy. The population today is approximately 313,000. The defeated Spanish Armada took refuge in 1588 in GIJÓN. Today, the city is one of Spain’s major seaports, located on the Bay of Biscay. With a population of 267,000, Gijón is an industrial and commercial cen-

ter producing steel, iron, chemicals, glass, tobacco, and foodstuffs. It exports large amounts of coal and iron. A pre-Roman settlement, Gijón was recaptured from the Moors in the eighth century, and flourished under the early Asturian kings. Noteworthy landmarks here include Roman baths; palaces built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries; a 15th-century church, and many mansions dating back at least 300 years. A major tourist center, GRANADA is in southern Spain, about 180 miles from Madrid. Situated at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, Granada has a population exceeding 244,000, and attracts many visitors because of its art treasures and rich history. It also is a trade and processing point for an agricultural center that is rich in minerals. Originally a Moorish fortress, it became the seat of the Kingdom of Granada in 1238. The Moorish influence in Granada gave the city great splendor, making it a center of commerce, industry, science, and art. Granada is the site of the Alhambra, the famous Moorish citadel and royal palace that dominates the city from a hill. The summer residence of the Moorish rulers—Palacio del Generalife—has b e a u t i f u l g a r d e n s. T h e c i t y ’s 16th-century cathedral contains the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella. LA CORUÑA, with a population of 242,000, is an Atlantic summer resort in northwestern Spain. A distribution center for the surrounding farm area, La Coruña has an important fishing area, as well as shipyards and metalworks. The city reached its height late in the Middle Ages as a textile center and port. It was the departure point of the Spanish Armada in 1588, and was sacked by Sir Francis Drake 10 years later. A 13th-century church, and the Roman Torre de Hércules, now a lighthouse, are landmarks today. Glazed window balconies (miradores) are characteristic of La Coruña. Just north of the city is the port of El Ferrol del Caudillo (population 87,700), the site of the most important naval base in Spain, built in the 18th century. 549

Spain LEÓN is located in northwestern Spain at the foot of the Cantabrian Mountains, about 175 miles from Madrid. The capital of the province of the same name, León, with a population of over 138,000, is an agricultural and commercial center. Originally a Roman city, León was reconquered from the Moors in the seventh century by Alfonso III of Asturias. León replaced Oviedo as Asturias’ capital in the 10th century and flourished until the 13th century when the city of Valladolid, to the northwest, became the favored residence of the kings. León still has a medieval atmosphere and a number of historic buildings which attract tourists. The Spanish Gothic cathedral (built during the 13th and 14th centuries) is noteworthy. The trade center of LOGROÑO lies on the Río Ebro, 155 miles northeast of Madrid in the north-central region. This is an agricultural and wine-growing area, known for its Rioja wine. Saw milling and textiles number among Logroño’s industries. The city has old and new quarters, and ruins of an ancient wall. Landmarks include three churches, a bridge dating to the 12th century, and the Instituto, an art-reproduction museum. Logroño originated in the Roman era. Much of its growth took place in the Middle Ages because it was on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. The city has approximately 128,000 people. MURCIA is situated on the Segura River in southeast Spain, about 200 miles from Madrid. Just inland from the Mediterranean coast, Murcia lies in one of Spain’s finest garden regions. For many years, the silk industry was important in the city, but has declined. Food processing and other light industries are currently part of the economy, as well as the mining of lead, silver, sulfur, and iron in the neighboring region. The city rose to prominence under the leadership of the Moors and served as the capital of the independent kingdom of Murcia. Landmarks include a Gothic cathedral (built in the 14th and 15th centuries) and the episcopal palace. The city, whose current population 550

Cities of the World is close to 357,000, also has a university founded in 1915. OVIEDO is one of Spain’s most important industrial centers. A city of approximately 200,000 residents, Oviedo is located in northwestern Spain less than 25 miles south of the Bay of Biscay. Oviedo is situated near the Cantabrian Mountains mining district; among the products manufactured here are gunpowder, firearms, and textiles. Established about 760, Oviedo was the capital of the Asturian kings, flourishing in this role during the ninth century. When the capital was moved to León early in the 10th century, Oviedo declined. Landmarks include a cathedral, built in 1288, that contains the tombs of the Asturian kings. Camara Santa, next to the cathedral, houses its sacred relics and treasures, and is known throughout Spain. Oviedo also has a university, founded in 1604. PAMPLONA is probably most recognized outside of Spain for the part it plays in Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises. This northern Spanish city is the site of the Fair of San Fermin and, described in Hemingway’s novel, the feast is characterized by the running of bulls through the streets to the arena. The tradition continues today, and the event becomes increasingly more dangerous as daring young men particip a t e i n t h i s a g e -o l d e v e n t . Pamplona is also an important communications, agricultural, and industrial center that produces chemicals and kitchenware. As an ancient Basque city, Pamplona was repeatedly captured between the fifth and ninth centuries; however, none of its conquerors—including Charlemagne—controlled it for long. In 824, the Basque kingdom of Pamplona (later called Navarre) was founded and the city remained its capital until 1512. Surrounded by old walls, Pamplona has a Gothic cathedral (built in the 14th and 15th centuries) and a university, founded in 1952. The population is about 183,000. SALAMANCA is a city of 159,000 residents in west-central Spain,

about 110 miles northwest of Madrid. Situated on the Tormes River at an altitude of 2,600 feet, it has food processing and othe r industries. Salamanca is an ancient city, captured by Hannibal in 220 B.C. The establishment of the University of Salamanca by Alfonso IX of León in 1218 brought the city world acclaim, making Arabic philosophy available. The university is the repository of many important manuscripts. The city was also the center of Christian Spanish cultural life and theology during the late Middle Ages and throughout the Renaissance. Salamanca displays many forms of architecture, among them a Roman bridge, an old Gothic cathedral, and a new cathedral that combines Gothic, plateresque, and baroque styles. Its Plaza Mayor has been described as one of the finest squares in the country. There are many beautiful palaces here, especially the Casa de las Conchas, so named for the scallop shells on its facade. SAN SEBASTIÁN is located in northern Spain at the mouth of the Bay of Biscay, just southwest of the French border. Situated in the Basque region at the foot of Mt. Urgull, San Sebastián has approximately 180,000 residents. Once a summer residence of Spanish royalty, the city is still a popular warm weather resort. Its industries include fishing, steel works, and paper making. San Sebastián was nearly destroyed in 1813, during the Peninsular War, when it was the scene of a fierce battle between Wellington’s forces and the French. The San Sebastián Pact, which hastened the fall of the Spanish monarchy, was signed in the city in 1930. SANTANDER is one of Spain’s important ports, as well as a summer resort. Located in northern S p a i n o n t h e B a y o f B i s c a y, Santander has a population today of about 184,000. Following the discovery of America, Santander became one of the busiest ports in northern Spain, and was the site of a former royal summer palace. Santander’s industries include ironworks and shipyards, largely developed

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Cities of the World through the exploitation of nearby mines. In 1941, the city’s business district and the 13th-century cathedral were destroyed in a fire, but have since been rebuilt. Santander is the site of an internationally known summer university. The Altamira Caves near Santander contain some of mankind’s oldest, best-preserved prehistoric paintings. TOLEDO is one of Spain’s most important cities from a historical and cultural viewpoint and often is called the soul of the country. Located in central Spain, 50 miles south of Madrid, it is situated on a granite hill surrounded on three sides by a river gorge. Toledo’s origins are pre-Roman and its ancient name was Toletum. Conquered by the Romans in 193 B.C., the city became an archiepiscopal see dominated by powerful ecclesiastics. As capital of the Visigothic kingdom, Toledo was the site of several major church councils. It enjoyed its greatest prosperity under Moorish rule, 712–1085, becoming the center of Moorish, Spanish, and Jewish cultures. An important product of the city was the Toledo sword blade, introduced by Moorish artisans and famous worldwide for strength, elasticity, and craftsmanship. Silk and wool textiles were other important products. While commercial importance declined in the 16th century, Toledo gained prominence as the spiritual center of Spanish Catholicism. It was also the center for mysticism, symbolized by the artist El Greco (1541–1614), whose name has become synonymous with the city. Today, with a current population of over 61,000, it has changed little since El Greco painted his View of Toledo. It is surrounded by Gothic and Moorish walls, and its chief landmark is the alcazar, the fortified palace which was originally a Moorish structure. The Gothic cathedral here, one of the finest in Spain, houses many of El Greco’s paintings. Several other buildings in Toledo have paintings by this celebrated master, whose given name was Kyriakos Theotopoulos (El Greco, the Greek, was a sobriquet).

VALLADOLID, in north-central Spain, 80 miles north of Madrid, is a communications and industrial center, as well as an important grain market. With a current population of about 319,000, Valladolid’s origin is obscure, but the city has played a large role in Spanish history. The Christians took Valladolid from the M o o r s i n t h e 1 0 t h c e n t u r y. I t became prominent in the 12th and 13th centuries, and replaced Toledo as the residence of the Castilian kings in the 15th century. Famous for its festivals and tournaments, Valladolid was the scene of the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella in 1469. Christopher Columbus died here in 1506. The city declined when Madrid was named the country’s capital in 1561; it served briefly as capital from 1600 through 1606. Today, Valladolid is an important cultural center; its university, founded in 1346, has a large library with valuable manuscripts. Landmarks include Columbus’ house and the house where Miguel de Cervantes wrote the first part of Don Quixote. VIGO, situated in northwestern Spain on an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, is one of the country’s most active ports. A center for tuna and sardine fishing, Vigo has shipyards, canneries, petroleum and sugar refineries, and several light industries, as well as a naval base. In 1702, galleons containing American gold and jewels were destroyed in the bay by the British and Dutch. Several galleons sank, and it is thought that much of the treasure is still at the bottom of the bay. The current population is 286,000. ZAMORA is a communications and agricultural center on the Duero River in northwest Spain, 25 miles from the Portuguese border and 125 miles from Madrid. Situated in a strategic position, Zamora was contested several times during the Middle Ages. Today, visitors can still see some of the medieval fortifications, a s w e l l a s a 1 2 t h -c e n t u r y Romanesque cathedral. The residential count is over 55,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Spain is composed of portions of the Iberian mainland, the Balearic Islands and the Canary Islands, and the enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla on the North African coast. The nation totals 194,880 square miles, slightly smaller than the area of Nevada and Utah combined. Spain’s most striking topographical features are its elevation and its internal division by mountain and river barriers. The peninsula rises sharply from the sea, with only a narrow coastal plain except in the Andalusian lowlands. Most of the peninsula is a vast plateau broken by mountains, gorges, and broad, shallow depressions. Spain has few bays, virtually no coastal islands, and a scarcity of natural harbors. A knowledge of the geography of Spain is important to an understanding of the nation’s history. Madrid’s climate is predominantly dry, sunny, and agreeable. Because of its elevation (about 2,000 feet above sea level) and its proximity to mountains, Madrid often experiences wide variations in temperature. These weather changes (and chronic air pollution) may aggravate respiratory ailments. In winter, temperatures may sometimes drop slightly below freezing, and many winter days can be uncomfortably cold (although not nearly as severe as in the northern U.S.). Summers are quite warm, with average midday temperatures of 95°F to 100°F common, but some say the dry heat of Madrid is not uncomfortable. Except at the height of summer, evenings and nights are cool. Daily mean temperature ranges from 50°F to 68°F during 8 months of the year. Rainfall is scarce, except during a brief rainy season in October and November. Snow, uncommon in Madrid, usually becomes rain and slush by early afternoon. 551

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Mildew is rare, and the city is fairly free of winged pests. Flies are sometimes noticeable because of the lack of window screens in many homes and apartments. Cockroaches, ants, and wool-eating moths can be minor problems in some locations, but local products are available to prevent damage.

Population Peninsular Spain, the Balearic Islands, and the Canary Islands have a population of about 50 million (2001 estimate). Population dens it y is com pa r ab le t o Ne w England’s and is much lower than that of most European countries. Madrid has over 4.7 million persons in its metropolitan area, and Barcelona has over 2.8 million. Barcelona, the second largest city, is Spain’s principal commercial and industrial city and a major regional center within the European Community (EC). The 48 provinces of peninsular Spain are divided geographically and ethnically into 15 so-called Autonomous Regions. The Balearic Islands and the Canary Islands make up the remaining two Autonomous Regions.

Madrid The region established to encompass the national capital and its metropolitan area.

Valencia Galicia The northwestern region of Spain is inhabited by the Gallegos, whose Celtic culture has much in common with that of Britain. The principal city is La Coruna. The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela has been world famous as a destination for Christian pilgrims for a millennium.

A small mountainous region in northern Spain, which served as a refuge for Spanish Christians during the height of the Muslim conquest of the peninsula.

Cantabria A picturesque mountainous region on Spain’s north coast.

Pais Vasco The region in north central Spain inhabited by the Basques, known for their unique language, culture, and history of national pride and identity. Most of Spain’s mining and heavy industry is located in the area. Strong regionalist sentiment prevails in the Basque country, and a small but intense minority demands independence from Spain.

Navarre Formerly an independent kingdom with ethnic and historical ties to both the Basque region and southern France.

Aragon Castile-La Mancha South of Madrid and previously known as Castilla la Nueva, the region also formed part of the old kingdom of Castile. Toledo, the capital of Visigothic Spain, is the most prominent of the region’s population centers.

La Rioja A small region in northern Spain best known for its production of red wines. 552

Located farther south along the Mediterranean coast, the region is justly known for its oranges and rice and as the home of paella, the Spanish rice and seafood dish. The coast of Valencia is a major resort destination for European package tourism. Valencia is the principal city and seaport in the area.

Murcia Asturias

Castile-Leon The territory roughly encompassed by the northern part of the kingdom of Castile, known previously as Castilla la Vieja. The cities of Burgos, Leon, and Valladolid are the most populous centers in the region.

ally born in Malaga but spent much of his early life in Barcelona), Dali, Miro, and Gaudi.

Formerly the heart of one of the two major independent kingdoms in Spain. Zaragoza is its major city and capital.

A small, sparsely populated singleprovince region on the southern Mediterranean coast.

Andalucia Southern Spain is famous for flamenco music and its distinctive culture and architecture derived from more than seven centuries of Islamic civilization. Seville is the largest city in southern Spain and well known for its Holy Week religious festivities and its Spring Fair. Other cities in Andalucia are Granada, home to the famous Alhambra Palace, and Cordoba, site of La Mezquita, the centuries-old cathedral/mosque.

Extremadura Spain’s dry, parched southwest, best known as the birthplace of many of the “conquistadores” of the New World.

Public Institutions Spain is a parliamentary democracy. King Juan Carlos I succeeded Francisco Franco as Chief of State in November 1975, in accordance with the provisions of the Francoera Fundamental Laws, but the monarchy was later confirmed in the 1978 Spanish Constitution.

Catalonia Centered around Barcelona, the area is famous for its strong regional identity; commercial history; accomplishments in art; and unique language, Catalan, a mixture of Spanish and French. World-renowned artists of Catalonia include Picasso (who was actu-

Spain’s Constitution, ratified by public referendum on December 6, 1978, provides for a freely elected bicameral legislature, a government responsible to Parliament, the full range of basic civil rights and freedoms, an independent judiciary, the creation of autonomous government

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Cities of the World in Spain’s various regions, and the institution of the monarchy. The head of government is the President of Government, or Prime Minister, who presides over the Council of Ministers, composed of officials who head the government ministries or hold ministerial rank. The legislature, or “Cortes,” consists of the lower chamber or “Congress of Deputies,” which is popularly elected at the provincial level, and the upper chamber or Senate, which combines both directly elected seats and seats filled by voting in regional parliaments. Spain is divided into seventeen regional units or “comunidades autonomies.” Each region maintains its own governing bodies, including a chief executive or president and legislatures. The level of authority or control that each body has differs for each region.

Arts, Science, and Education Spain is justly proud of its museums, cultural institutions, and historic buildings, which a bound throughout the country. Madrid boasts the world-renowned Prado Museum, the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection of art, and the Reina Sofia Museum of Contemporary Art, along with the Royal Palace and other cultural sites. Barcelona has its own Picasso and Romanesque museums and collection of Thyssen art and many other provincial cities have artistic, cultural, and historical treasures representative of Spain’s long history. The Spanish Museum of Modern Art in Cuenca houses some of the best paintings and sculptures of Spain’s “Generation of the 1950s and 1960s.” Granada, with its grand heritage of Islamic art and civilization, and imperial Toledo are in fact cities preserved as museums. Sagunto (near Valencia) and Merida (near Badajoz) have well-preserved 2,000year-old Roman amphitheaters and fortresses. Some of the oldest and

best preserved paintings of prehistory are found in the Altamira Caves near Santander (now open only on an appointment basis). Spain is a nation of festivals. Among Spain’s more notable religious festivals are Holy Week in Seville (usua l l y A p r i l ) a n d L a s Fa l l a s i n Valencia (March). Other festivals pay homage to local customs as well as to the patron saint, such as the festival of San Fermin in Pamplona (with the famous running of the bulls through the city streets) in July. Still others, such as the Seville Fair (April) and the Sherry Festival at Jerez de la Frontera (September), popularize local life-styles, cultural heritage or the most important agricultural product of the region. Madrid and Barcelona have active cultural calendars featuring performances throughout the year by top Spanish and foreign performing artists and groups. Both cities have scores of theaters, with mainstream and more innovative productions staged throughout the year. Opera is an important element of the cultural scene. There are excellent local flamenco, folk dance, and Zarzuela (operetta) performances, especially in summer. Both cities attract top foreign artists, including touring pop and rock groups. There are scores of cultural festivals throughout the country. Granada, for example, hosts an annual international music festival in early summer; Santander, an international piano competition in midsummer; and Barcelona, an international choir festival in late summer. Madrid’s annual Autumn Festival is a highlight of the city’s life. All major U.S. films open in the principal theaters of Spain within a couple of months of their initial U.S. release. Many European films reach Madrid before opening in U.S. cities. The popularity of movies is evidenced by the thousands of theaters throughout the country and by the numerous important film festivals that are staged annually in Spain. One of the most important is the San Sebastian International Film Festival, also known as the “Produc-

ers’ Festival,” since mainly producers and directors attend. Spain’s educational system has been strained by rapid economic development, overenrollment, and social pressure. An all-inclusive educational reform law was passed in 1970. New universities have been created; the Madrid and Barcelona technical schools (university level) have merged to form polytechnic universities, bringing the number of Spanish state universities to 31 (32 with the summer University of Santander). Spain also has several private universities. New courses of study have been instituted that give the university student a diploma after 3 years of general study and the traditional “licenciatura” after 2 or more years of specialized study. Over 60 U.S. universities operate summer or full-year programs in Spain. American-style junior colleges operate in Seville. Two university programs in Madrid offer a complete 4-year B.A. degree. Some American students complete language studies or special research through the assistance of the Instituto de Cooperacion Iberoamericano or the U.S.-Spanish Fulbright Commission for Educational Exchange. The Spanish scientific community, led by the Higher Council for Scientific Research, works closely with the American scientific community in a range of mutually rewarding and important research projects.

Commerce and Industry The success of the Spanish economy following accession has converted Spain into one of the most ardent advocates of greater European integration. The opening of Spain to Europe sent a strong message to foreign investors that the country was a good base for exports to the EC. The impressive growth of the late 1980s was largely spurred by the inflow of over $60 billion in foreign investment, mostly European. The traditional image of Spain is that of a rural country producing 553

Spain wine, olives, and citrus fruits. Agriculture, however, accounts for only 4% of gross domestic product (GDP). Industry, by contrast, accounts for 31%. Moreover, Spanish industry in the last decade has shifted from heavy industry, in declining sectors like steel or shipbuilding, to light industry and assembly. The services sector accounts for 65% of the economy. Banking has been relatively profitable due to protection afforded the sector, and the EC single market will spur more efficient operations. Tourism brought $19 billion into Spain in 1992 and is one of the important sectors of the economy. The emphasis is slowly shifting from low-cost package vacations to upscale tourism. Future growth is most likely to occur through the telecommunications, environmental and aviation sectors. In order to comply with EU environmental regulations, Spain will invest an estimated $33 billion in industrial clean-up, sewage treatment, water and air pollution control, and water and soil treatment. In the aviation sector, the EU's liberalization policy has added new local regular airlines to cope with the increased demand for air transport services. The foreign trade sector has boomed since Spain’s accession to the EC. Solid growth of the economy and the inflow of foreign investment spurred the import of capital goods, while overall imports rose as the peseta appreciated. In the next few years, Spain is expected to continue in efforts to reform labor laws and decrease the unemployment rate (14% in 2000) while adjusting to the economic policies of the European Union. Spain adopted the euro as its national currency in February 2002.

Cities of the World of the country. Intercity flights connect all major cities, and the busy Madrid-Barcelona air corridor is served by shuttle flights arriving and departing throughout the day. A high-speed train connects Madrid and Seville, reducing travel time to just over 2-1/2 hours. The line will be extended to Barcelona before the end of the decade. There is excellent bus and train service throughout the country, both intercity and suburban. With the help of grants from the EC, Spain has built a modern national highway system, which is continuing to grow as more and more segments are opened and the system reaches into the more distant parts of the country.

Local Public transportation in major cities is excellent. Bus routes serve most neighborhoods and suburban locations and are crowded with passengers during the workday. Madrid and Barcelona have extensive subway systems, although, in Madrid, the subway does not reach the western suburbs. In major cities, all taxis are metered and are plentiful at all times of the day and night. Public transportation costs less than in most U.S. cities. Street parking in Madrid is difficult, if not impossible, in most of the city center, although underground public parking garages are available almost everywhere. Traffic in Madrid and Barcelona is faster-paced than in U.S. cities. Pedestrians should use designated crossing areas when crossing streets and obey traffic lights. Night driving on Fridays and Saturdays in urban areas may be dangerous due to drivers under the influence of alcohol. Night driving in isolated rural areas can be dangerous because of farm animals and poorly marked roads. Rural traffic is generally heavier in July and August as well as during the Christmas and Easter seasons.

Regional

Transportation Spain has a well-developed transportation system in nearly all areas 554

There is good air and rail service between most major Spanish cities and places of interest. Rail fares are reasonable—first-class fares are

significantly higher—with special f a r e s a v a i l a b l e f o r s a m e -d a y r e t u r n s. A i r f a r e s a r e u s u a l l y slightly higher than in the U.S. Excellent bus service is usually available between most cities in Spain, but quality does vary. Rental cars are available, with or without a driver. The Spanish National Railroad (RENFE) runs express trains (known as the Talgo) between all major cities in Spain. These trains have comfortable seats and dining facilities. Trains, with sleepers, serve selected cities in Spain and connect with trains serving all of Europe. The high-speed AVE serves Madrid and Seville. Travel agencies in Spain’s larger cities frequently offer domestic and international package tours at lower rates than those charged by airlines. Agencies will also procure rail tickets, charging the same as the carriers. Spanish airlines sometimes assess a fee for changing or canceling reservations.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph All types of domestic and international communications are available in Spain. The country enjoys excellent direct-dial domestic and international telephone service, although touch-tone phone service is still limited to portions of larger cities. All telephone service in Spain is charged by units of use. Long-distance calling charges within Spain and to other European countries are high, and transatlantic rates to the U.S. are significantly more expens i v e t h a n U. S. r a t e s t o S p a i n (although Spanish rates are dropping). Calls to the U.S. can be made using U.S. credit cards at rates lower than the Spanish long-distance rates. It is suggested that Individuals apply for a telephone credit card, such as those issued by AT&T, Sprint, or MCI, prior to arrival.

Spain

Cities of the World Radio and TV The Spanish radio dial is crowded with stations, many broadcasting in FM stereo. Programming is dominated by talk radio and top 40 hits. Some stations feature Spanish music, and Spanish National Radio has an excellent classical station. A shortwave radio is useful for receiving the broadcasts of VOA and other European broadcasters. There are national, regional, and local television channels, both government and commercial. There is no significant cable television in Spain, although one pay-TV channel does exist. Television programming varies, and all programming, including films and special events, is broadcast in Spanish.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals In addition to the Spanish press, newsstands in major cities througho u t t h e c o u n t r y u s ua l l y c a r r y day-old foreign newspapers. The International Herald Tribune and the European edition of the Wall Street Journal are on sale on the day of publication, and the European editions of U.S. news magazines are readily available. British newspapers arrive the following day. Many newsstands in central Madrid carry the Sunday editions of the New York Times, the Washington Post, and the Los Angeles Times a few days after publication. There are no public lending libraries in Spain. USIS operates research centers in Madrid and Barcelona for Spanish scholars interested in selected U.S. topics. The Embassy’s Commercial Library has a small collection of reference materials to support U.S. exports and U.S.-Spanish business cooperation. Spain’s National Library and the many specialized libraries and archives throughout Spain are usually open only to certified scholars. There are several bookstores in Madrid that sell English-language books, most published in Britain, at prices significantly higher than in the U.S.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Madrid and Barcelona have general practitioners and specialists in all fields. Many local doctors understand and speak English and are U.S. trained. Generally, rates for persons not covered by Spanish social security are higher than in the U.S. Some of the U.S.-quality dentists speak English, but they are in high demand and charge prices commensurate with their reputation and ability. In general, medical care in Bilbao is adequate, and several physicians and dentists are U.S. or U.K. trained. Many of the local hospitals are clean, but only a few offer facilities comparable to those in the U.S. One privately owned hospital, the Clinica V. San Sebastian, is comparable to U.S. hospitals in equipment and facilities. The Clinica Quiron in Barcelona is a 50% U.S.-owned hospital with a large English-speaking staff and levels of care and equipment comparable to U.S. standards. Most commonly prescribed medications are available in Spain, often at lower cost due to Spanish government subsidies. Similarly, most U.S.-brand nonprescription cold remedies are also available.

Community Health Sanitary conditions are good in Spain’s large cities. Street cleaning and municipal garbage removal, although occasionally interrupted by labor disputes, are normal. Modern apartment buildings supply soft hot water day and night and sufficient heat during winter. Soft coal burned for winter heating leaves pollutants not normally found in the air in U.S. cities. These pollutants and the predominant use of lead-based automobile fuel can and do aggravate allergies and may increase susceptibility to respiratory ailments. Air pollution and smog are serious problems and may at times reach menacing and bothersome levels in major cities such as Madrid.

Both fresh pasteurized and reconstituted milk and dairy products that meet U.S. specifications are available on the Spanish economy. Meats and poultry, fish and shellfish, and fresh fruits and vegetables are available all year locally. Cuts of meat differ from those in the U.S., and popular American steak cuts such as sirloin and T-bone may not always be available. Lamb, veal, pork, and chicken are popular throughout Spain and are of good quality. Fresh seafood from Spain’s north coast is sold throughout the country and is excellent. Infants and children up to age 13 need to take supplemental sodium fluoride tablets, as fluoride is not added to the water supply in Spain.

Preventive Measures The most prevalent local illnesses are upper respiratory infections, gastroenteritis, influenza, measles, chicken pox, hepatitis, mumps, and whooping cough. No rabies has been reported for many years. Typhoid and tuberculosis are both still present in all regions but are far less prevalent than in the past. Keep immunizations current for tetanus. Dry heat, common to most apartment buildings in winter, and extremely dry summers may cause skin irritations or aggravate allergies. Some of these problems may be alleviated by using a humidifier. Commercial skin moisturizers and humidifiers are available at Spanish stores and pharmacies. Tap water is normally safe for drinking in Spain’s major cities, although many visitors prefer to drink bottled water. However, occasional breaks in city water systems due to construction or old age require special precautions (i.e., boiling water and treating it with 2 drops of Clorox per quart, or buying bottled water). Nonpotable water signs are sometimes encountered in restroom facilities during travel to small towns and villages. Because the water supply in Madrid is not fluoridated, fluoride drops or 555

Spain tablets are recommended for children from birth to age 13.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties A passport is required, but a visa is not required for tourist or business stays up to 90 days. Individuals who enter Spain without a visa are not authorized to work. For further information concerning entry requirements for Spain, travelers should contact the Embassy of Spain at 2375 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, D.C. 20037, telephone (202) 728-2330, or the nearest Spanish consulate in Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, New York, San Francisco, or San Juan. The web site of the Spanish Embassy in the United States is http:// www.spainemb.org Students planning to study in Spain should be aware of a recent change in Spanish immigration laws, which require applications for student visas to be submitted a minimum of 60 days before anticipated travel to Spain. It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Spain in Washington, D.C. or one of Spain's consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements. This is especially important if you are attempting to send any medications to Spain through postal channels. Americans living in or visiting Spain or Andorra are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Madrid or at the U.S. Consulate General in Barcelona where they may obtain updated information on travel and security within Spain or Andorra. The U.S. Embassy in Madrid, Spain is located at Serrano 75; telephone (34)(91) 587-2200, and fax (34)(91) 587-2303. U.S. citizens who register in the Consular Section at the U.S. Embassy or Consulate listed below 556

Cities of the World can obtain updated information on travel and security within Spain or Andorra. Additional information is also available through the U.S. Embassy's Internet homepage at h t t p : / / w w w. e m b u s a . e s / i n d e x bis.html. There is a U.S. Consulate in Barcelona, at Paseo Reina Elisenda 23-25; telephone (34)(93) 280-2227 and fax (34)(93) 205-5206. There are also Consular Agencies in the following locations: Malaga, at Avenida Juan Gomez Juanito #8, Edificio Lucia 1C, 29640, Fuengirola, telephone (34)(952)474-891 and fax (34)(952) 465-189, hours 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. La Coruna, at Canton Grande 1617, telephone (34)(981) 213-233 and fax (34)(981) 222-808, hours 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Las Palmas, at Edificio Arca, Calle Los Martinez de Escobar 3, Oficina 7, telephone (34)(928) 222-552 and fax (34)(928) 225-863, hours 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Palma de Mallorca, Ave. Jaime III, 26 Entresuelo, 2-H-1 (97), telephone (34)(971) 725-051 and fax (34)(971) 718-755, hours 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Seville, at Paseo de Las Delicias 7, telephone (34)(954) 231-885 and fax (34)(954) 232-040, hours 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Valencia, at Doctor Romagosa #1, 2J, 4 6 0 0 2 , Va l e n c i a t e l e p h o n e (34)(96)-351-6973 and fax (34)(96) 352-9565, hours 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.

of good health), the animal will be quarantined for 40 days. If it is then found to be in good health, it will be returned to owner.

Currency, Banking and Weights and Measures Official currency as of February 2002 is the euro. The exchange rate is about 1.0 8EUR=US $1 (May 2002). Spain uses the metric system of weights and measures.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Epifania Del Senor (Epiphany) Mar. 18 . . . . . . . . . St. Joseph’s Day Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Jueves Santo* (Holy Thursday) Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Viernes Santo* (Holy Friday) Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . Fiesta De Trabjo (Labor Day) May 2 . . . . . . . . . . Fiesta De La Comunidad De Madrid May 15 . . . . . . . . . San Isidro July 25 . . . . . . . . . Saint James Day Aug. 15 . . . . . . . . . La Asuncion De la Virgen Oct. 12. . . . . . . . . . Fiesta Nacional de Espana Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day) Nov. 9 . . . . . . . . . . La Almudena Dec. 6 . . . . . . . . . . Dia de la Constitucion Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Inmaculada Concepcion Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas *variable

Pets A certificate of good health from a veterinarian duly notarized by a Spanish Consulate must accompany each pet. Airlines require the certificate of health to be dated less than 10 days prior to departure. If the Sanitary Inspector of Customs believes an animal may have a contagious disease (despite a certificate

RECOMMENDED READING Baklanoff, Eric N. The Economic Transformation of Spain and Portugal. New York: Praeger, 1978.

Spain

Cities of the World Beaulac, Willard L. Franco: Silent Ally in World War II. Southern Illinois University Press: 1986.

Fodor’s Gold Guides: Barcelona, M a d r i d , S e v i l l e. N e w Yo r k : McKay, latest edition.

Blackshaw, Ian. Doing Business in Spain. London: Oyez Publishing, 1980.

Fodor’s Gold Guides: Spain. New York: McKay, latest edition.

Carr, Raymond and Juan Pablo Fusi. Spain: Dictatorship to Democracy. 2nd ed. George Allen and Unwin: London, 1979. Clark, Robert P. The Basques: The Franco Years and Beyond. University of Nevada Press: 1979. Clark, Robert P. The Basque Insurgent: ETA, 1952–1980. University of Wisconsin Press: 1984. Cortada, James W. Two Nations Over Time: Spain and the United States, 1776–1977. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1978. Cortada, James W. Spain in the Twentieth Century World: Essays on Spanish Diplomacy, 1898– 1978. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1980. Coverdale, Jolm F. The Political Transformation of Spain After Franco. Praeger: 1979. Crozier, Brian. Franco. London: 1967. Easton, Samuel D. The Forces of Freedom in Spain 1974–1979. Stanford, CA: Hoover Institution Press, 1981. Elliott, J.H. The Spanish World: Civilization and Empire—Europe and America, Past and Present. New York: Abrams, 1991. Esch, P.A.M. Prelude to War: The International Repercussion of the Spanish Civil War. Gordon Press: 1976.

Fraser, Ronald. Blood of Spain: An Oral History of the Spanish Civil War. Pantheon: 1980. Gilmour, David. The Transformation of Spain: From Franco to the Constitutional Monarchy. Merrimack: 1980. Harrison, Joseph. An Economic History of Modern Spain. Holmes and Meier: 1978. Harrison, E. Joseph. The Spanish Economy in the Twentieth Century. New York: St. Martin, 1985. Herr, Richard. An Historical Essay on Modern Spain. University of California Press: 1974. Jackson, Gabriel. The Spanish Civil War: New Viewpoints. 1972. Jackson, Gabriel. A Concise History of the Spanish Civil War. Thames Hudson: 1980.

———. Basque Nationalism. University of Nevada Press: 1975. Penniman, Howard R. and Eusebio M. Mujal–Leon, eds. Spain at the Polls, 1977, 1979 and 1982. A Study of the National Elections. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1985. Petrie, Charles. Short History of Spain. Bechnan Publishers: 1976. R o d de, M i c h e l e a n d A f f e r g a n , Michele. Spain Observed. Oxford University Press: 1973. Rubottom, Richard R. and Murphy, J.C. Spain and the United States Since World War II. Praeger: 1984. Spain Traveler’s Guide. New York: Berlitz, latest edition. Szulc, Tad. Portrait of Spain. American Heritage Press: New York, 1972. Thomas, Hugh. The Spanish Civil War. 3rd ed. Penguin Books: New York, 1977. Toibin, Colm. Homage to Barcelona. New York: Viking Penguin, 1992.

L a ndi s, A r t h u r H . S p a i n : The Unfinished Revolution. International Pu blishing Company: 1975.

Traina, Richard P. American Diplomacy and the Spanish Civil War. Greenwood: 1980.

Lapierre, D. and L. Collins. Or I’ll Dress You in Mourning. 1967.

Trythall, J.W.D. El Caudillo. New York, 1970.

Michener, James. Iberia. Random House: New York, 1968.

Vicens Vives, Jaime. Approaches to the History of Spain. University of California Press: 1970.

Payne, Stanley G. The Spanish Revolution. W.W. Norton: New York, 1970. ———. A History of Spain and Portugal. 2 vols. University of Wisconsin Press: 1973.

Wright, Allison. The Spanish Economy, 1959–1976. Holmes and Meier: 1977. Yglesias, José. The Franco Years. Bobbs-Merrill Company, 1977.

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Stockholm, Sweden

SWEDEN Kingdom of Sweden

Major Cities: Stockholm, Göteborg, Malmö, Uppsala Other Cities: Gävle, Halmstad, Helsingborg, Jönköping, Karlstad, Kristianstad, Landskrona, Linköping, Norrköping, Örebro, Västerås

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Sweden. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION Long isolated in the far North, SWE DEN is a unique so ciety: beginning in 1932, the Social Democrats, the trade union movement and Swedish business built a comprehensive social welfare structure in which every third Swedish worker is a government employee. Nearly 90 percent of industrial production is in private hands, however, and the Swedish economy is strongly oriented toward foreign trade. Neutral since the time of the Napoleonic Wars, Sweden maintained an activist foreign policy that emphasized multilateral diplomacy. The Swedes spoke of a “Swedish Model”—a “third way” equidistant between the capitalist West and the Communist East. But while about

85 percent of the work force still belongs to trade unions and social benefits still astound Americans, much that once characterized Swedish domestic and foreign policy is changing fast. Since the end of the Cold War the Swedes have taken a primary role in the Baltic region, taking the lead in the Council of Baltic Sea States and actively supporting their Baltic neighbors. Sweden joined NATO’s Partnership for Peace (PFP) and has placed hundreds of combat troops under NATO command in Bosnia. Sweden is a member of the UN Security Council through 1998. A change with lasting consequences for Sweden was the decision to join the EU in January 1995. Trade policy is now negotiated in Brussels and Sweden coordinates foreign and security policy with other EU states. Nonetheless, Sweden is one of only three EU countries that did not join the common currency, the Euro. Within Sweden itself, the severe economic downtown of the early 1990s saw real unemployment peak at 14 percent, compared to a postwar average of under 3 percent. The non-socialist government elected in 1991 reduced some taxes and the growth of social programs was stopped. But when unemployment remained stubbornly high, the vot-

ers in 1994 and again in 1998 turned again to the familiar Social Democrats. Swedish economic planners now face the greatest challenge to meeting the goal of full employment since the Depression. Social policy has also grown more complicated with the pluralization of Swedish society. With a visit to Stockholm you will find a sophisticated city environment surrounded by beautiful countryside. Stockholm lies near a unique archipelago with thousands of islands accessible by private boats or ferries. The cost of basic goods and services in Sweden is high, but state subsidies put a wide range of cultural and recreational activities within reach of everyone.

MAJOR CITIES Stockholm Stockholm is Sweden’s largest city. Founded in 1250, it has been Sweden’s principal city since the time of King Gustav Vasa in the early 1500s. The ancient walls have long since disappeared, and many of the old houses have been renovated. The medieval city plan can be seen in the narrow, winding cobblestone streets and small squares of Gamla 559

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Stan (Old Town). Reminders of Sweden’s period as a great power in the 17th and 18th centuries are the Royal Palace and the House of Nobilities. Other historic landmarks are the Stock Exchange, the Foreign Ministry, the Royal Opera House, and the old Riksdag or Parliament building. The burial place of Sweden’s nobility, the Riddarholmen Church, dates from the city’s beginnings. Central Stockholm has a turn-of-the-century appearance, but modern apartment houses rise on Stockholm’s outskirts. In the suburbs are many municipal housing projects; large, utilitarian apartment houses interspersed with grass and play areas.

differ from those in the U.S. Fresh fruits and vegetables are imported to the Swedish market from around the world. Throughout the winter, supplies of bananas, apples, pears, plums, grapes, pineapples, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, broccoli, carrots, mushrooms, and endive are available. Excellent dairy products, including a large variety of cheeses are always available, and canned goods of every description can be purchased. Swedish frozen foods include orange j u i c e, p e a s, s pi n a ch , b r o c c o l i , chicken, fish, and prepared dishes. Supermarkets are similar though generally smaller than those in the U.S.

Food

Swedes keep traditions that often are centered around the preparation of special foods: crayfish in August, fresh lamb in September, goose on St. Martin’s Day, lutefish and Jansson’s Temptation at Christmas. In recent years, new immigrants have brought with them both foods and food stores, and new traditions have sprung up. For example, many observe the old custom of pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays; others now line up to meet the air shipment of fresh tropical fruits at the Thai grocery store.

Stockholm regularly ranks among near the top in surveys of the most expensive cities for business travelers, and new arrivals face a series of surprises the first time they pay for some familiar item. By watching costs and adjusting spending habits, however, individuals can enjoy the high standard of living for which Sweden is also well known. The Swedish Government has used tax policy actively over the past 50 years as a tool for directing public consumption. As a rule of thumb, you can count on goods and services that are considered good for society to be relatively inexpensive in Sweden and those that are deemed detr i m e n t a l t o b e c o s t l y. P u b l i c transport, education, the performing arts, and public recreation are relatively inexpensive. The price of alcohol, tobacco, and parking tickets are legendary high. Maintaining a private car costs more than it does in Washington, DC, but maintaining a boat costs less. Books, records, and CDs cost double what they do in the U.S., but more than 100 libraries in Stockholm lend them by the month for free. In general, shop for clothes, cosmetics, and durable goods before arrival. One high cost expenditure that is impossible to avoid is food. Highquality food of every type is available in Stockholm. Fish and meat of all varieties are available on the local market, although meat cuts 560

prices. Warm gloves, scarves, and caps covering the ears for winter are also available locally. Well cut and tailored dresses, suits, and coats are in the medium- to high-price range. Although summers are not usually hot, bring summer clothes for the short summer season and for travel. Swedish shoe lasts are different from those in America, and some women have difficulty finding shoes that fit. Fashionable European shoes are widely stocked. Good fur coats, ready-made or made-to-order, are not considered a luxury in Sweden. They are available at relatively moderate prices throughout Scandinavia. Children: Children’s clothing is available in wide variety. American blue jeans and sneakers are popular but expensive. Rain gear, clogs, boots, and winter outerwear are a relatively good buy locally. Narrow shoe sizes are difficult to find.

Supplies and Services Almost everything is available in Stockholm but generally at higher prices. Stores stock many familiar brands, but you may wish to bring a supply of special cosmetics, hair preparations, and drugstore items.

Clothing Men: Men need medium weight suits, an overcoat, raincoat, hat, warm gloves and scarves, and overshoes or boots. American-style suits shirts, ties, socks, and underwear are available on the local market but at much higher prices than in the U.S. Tailor-made suits are available in Stockholm at prices comparable to the U.S. Sports gear and casual wear are widely available. All types of shoes are available at prices higher than in the U.S. Women: Women need a good supply of warm dresses, slacks, sweaters, and coats, since they are worn about 9 months of the year. Boots or galoshes are worn regularly between November and April. Lined boots and galoshes, as well as good quality rain, and snow outfits are readily available in Stockholm, but are more expensive than Stateside

Commercial dry-cleaning, shoe repair, and services in general are readily available, but at a higher price and with a longer wait than in the U.S. Hairdressing services are similar to those in the U.S.

Domestic Help Daytime babysitters can be difficult to find for preschool children. Some families hire an au pair to help with the children and housework. Foreign domestic help traveling to work in Sweden must possess an employment visa in advance. In some cases, domestic help employed from a third country may be eligible for Swedish health benefits while residing in Sweden. D a y c a r e c e n t e r s, M o n t e s s o r i schools, and parent-owned cooperatives are available; but often there is a waiting list.

Sweden

Cities of the World It is difficult, but possible, to find domestic help in Sweden. Most such workers are foreign, salaries are high, and anyone planning to have a full-time live-in maid must be familiar with the working conditions for domestics established by Swedish law. These include a minimum wage and restrictions on access to public assistance by third-country nationals. Some people hire cleaning personnel by the hour, and extra help at receptions and dinners can be arranged.

Religious Activities Until the year 2000 all Swedish citizens automatically become members of the Church of Sweden at birth if one of their parents is a member. In 2000, church and state will separate. Nearly 90% of the population belongs to the established Evangelical-Lutheran Church of Sweden; but regular church attendance is low: only 5% of the overall population are active churchgoers. The many church buildings are well maintained through support from taxes and income from land holdings. Services are usually held in Swedish. English services are also conducted at the interdenominational Immanuel Church, the Anglican Church of St. Peter and St. Sigfhed, St. Jacob's Church, and the Roman Catholic Church of St. Eugenia. In addition, Greek Orthodox, Jewish, Moslem, Mormon, Methodist, Baptist, Mission Covenant, and Pentecostal churches are located in Stockholm. Services are usually in Swedish, although it is also possible to find services conducted in French, German, Spanish, and English.

Education Most American children in the elementary grades attend the International School of Stockholm or the British Primary School. Both are English-language, coeducational schools. The school year has two terms beginning late August and January. School ends in mid June. Both schools may have waiting lists for admission. The International School of Stockholm was founded in 1952 and is

located in downtown Stockholm. It is accredited by the European Council of International Schools and The Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools. The International School curriculum combines elements of American and British School curricula. ISS has kindergarten through grade 9 and accepts children ages 4-15. Maximum class size is 25 in the lower school and 20 in the upper school. Facilities include a gym, computer class, music and art rooms. American standardized tests are given each year. For further information, contact: The Principal, Stockholm International School, Johannesgatan 18, 111 38 Stockholm, Sweden, tel: (46) (8) 412 40 00, fax: (46) (8) 810 52 89. The British Primary School, founded in 1980, is located in Djursholm, a residential suburb north of Stockholm. The school enrolls children in the British equivalents of preschool and kindergarten through Grade 6. Each department offers an educational program designed specifically to meet the academic and social needs of the students. There are currently around 200 students, the largest representations are British and American. The majority of its teachers, coming from both Britain and the United States, are permanently based in Sweden. They are supported by specialists in EFL, French, Swedish, Music, and PE. The building includes a gymnasium, music room, library, computer studies room, art and pottery room, and a science area. For further information, contact Principal, British Primary School, Ostra Valhallavagen, 182 62 Djursholm, Sweden, tel: (46) (8) 755 2375, fax: (46) (8) 755 2635. The English School is an independent school approved by the National School Board for grades 1 9. The school’s educational program follows a modified Swedish curriculum with most subjects taught in English. Swedish is taught 6 lessons per week at two different levels, corresponding to the student’s knowledge of the subject. For further information, contact: Principal, The Engelska Skolan, Valhallavägen 9,

114 22 Stockholm, Sweden, tel: (46) (8) 673 29 10, fax: (46) (8) 673 29 15. American children in grades 10-12 often attend the Kungsholmen Gymnasium just west of the city center. Courses are offered in three lines of study in English: The International Baccalaureate, the Social Science line, and the Natural Science line. The International Baccalaureate Line admits students by examination and is aimed for students bound for competitive colleges in Europe and the U.S. Instruction is in English, and compulsory courses are Swedish, English, French, history, psychology, social science, mathematics, physics, chemistry, biology, music or drawing, and physical education. Electives are German, Russian, or S p a n i s h . Fe w e r s u b j e c t s a r e required in the Social Science Line and the Natural Science Line, but both have a college prep curriculum. For more information, contact: Kungsholmen’s Gymnasium, International Section, Hantverkargatan 67-69, 112 38 Stockholm, Sweden, tel: (46) (8) 693 53 00, fax: (46) (8) 693 53 01. Another educational option for children in high school is the Sigtunaskolan Humanistiska Laroverket, coeducational boarding school in Sigtuna, approximately 27 miles from Stockholm. The school offers a 3-year program in English leading to the International Baccalaureate degree. The school enrolls 200 day students and 300 boarding students. It is popular with Swedish families whose children have begun their education in English while living abroad. For further information, contact: Sigtunaskolan Humanistiska Laroverket, Manfred Bjorkquists alle 6-8, Box 8, 193 00 Sigtuna, Sweden, tel: (46) (8) 592 571 00, fax: (46) (8) 592 572 50. Swedish public schools also accept American children, but Swedish is the language of instruction. Foreigners are given special tutoring. Children in Sweden begin school at age 7, and classes are held Monday through friday. 561

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Children with learning disabilities often find education difficult in Stockholm. Many of the disabilities recognized in the United States are either not recognized or are little understood here. If your children have learning disabilities or attention deficit disorder, contact the school directly to determine whether the school is capable of dealing with your child. Get any commitments from the school in writing.

Special Educational Opportunities One out of every three adult Swedes is enrolled in an adult education program of some kind. Courses range from arts, crafts, and music to academic subjects and vocational training. Classes are held throughout the day and evening, and tuition costs are generally subsidized. Instruction is in Swedish. The Swedish language is also taught in adult education programs in a variety of formats. These range from intensive full-time classes intended for immigrants who need to achieve fluency as quickly as possible to evening conversation groups designed especially for the diplomatic community.

Sports Sweden is truly a sporting nation. One in every four Swedes belongs to one of 20,000 local sports clubs representing 61 different national associations. A year-round program of sports for all ages is organized in every commune (municipality). With a little effort and some basic Swedish, American family members can participate in these activities. Dozens of mass sports events are held each year, where the emphasis is on participation. In March, 12,000 cross-country skiers participate in the 90 kilometer “Vasaloppet” commemorating a 16th-century turning point in the formation of the Swedish state. The streets of Stockholm are cordoned off in May for the “Tjejtrampet,” billed as the world’s largest women’s bicycle race with 6,000 participants. There is a regular calendar of recreational runs, from children’s fun runs to the 562

Stockholm Marathon; the “Lidingöloppet” attracts over 25,000 men and women to its arduous cross-country trail. Public indoor swimming pools are popular in the winter months. The most modern facilities have waves, currents, and waterfalls in addition to the standard “bastu” (sauna) and solarium. Many indoor pools are closed in the summer, with the expectation that people will take part in the brisk swimming offered by the Baltic Sea and Lake Malaren, whose waters reach 62°F in the summer. Hiking, cycling, and walking are popular. Scenic paths follow the water in town and the forests and park areas in the outskirts of town. The “Kustlinien” is a bicycle path that runs from the center of Stockholm 120 miles both north and south. It is linked among the islands of the archipelago by 31 different ferry companies. Hunting in Sweden is limited to those invited by proprietors of game land. Duck, hare, deer, and moose are plentiful. Hunting rifles and shotguns can be purchased locally after first obtaining a license. Many game fish can be found in and around Stockholm, and salmon rivers are convenient to the city. Salmon fishing in streams and rivers is tightly controlled, but in recent years, it has become common f o r a n g l e r s a l o n g S t o ck h o l m ’s waterfront to pull in fine salmon with no fees to pay. Trout are found in streams near the mountain range along the Swedish-Norwegian border; fishing rights there are not restrictive. All types of fishing tackle can be purchased locally. In Stockholm, fishing is permitted without a license, a unique privilege that has been enjoyed in the capital since the 17th century. The catch includes Baltic herring, pike, perch, cod, salmon, and trout depending on the time of year. Te nnis (which is primarily an indoor game in Sweden), squash, health club, badminton, golf, and bowling facilities are available.

Club memberships are expensive if n o t p r o h i b i t i v e . N a t i o n w i d e, “Friskis & Svettis” offers popular and reasonable aerobics classes. Horseback riding may be enjoyed all year; bridle paths are well maintained, and several stables have indoor rings. Greater Stockholm is well equipped with cross-country ski trails (many lighted) and downhill beginners’ slopes with lifts. The closest ski resort with a ski lift is in Salen, Dalarna, about a 5-hour drive from Stockholm. Ice skating is available on many public rinks and lakes; enthusiasts take part in longdistance skating on the waterways leading out to the Baltic.

Touring and Outdoor Activities In only a few places in the world is boating so generally enjoyed. The season is short (May 15-September 15), but the Stockholm archipelago is beautiful and easily accessible for either sailing or motorboating. A unique Swedish legal custom, “Allemansratt,” establishes conditions for camping and hiking on private property without disturbing the owners. There is a lively market for secondhand boats, and boat clubs are located all over Stockholm, although most have a waiting list. An easy way to get on the water is to enroll in one of the several boating courses and sailing camps organized for the public during the summer. Kayaking is popular. Sight-seeing tours by bus and boat are available through tourist offices and along the waterfront. Nearby destinations include: Uppsala, a university town and site of a restored medieval cathedral, and Old Uppsala where Viking burial mounds are located (1-1/4 hours by car; 1 hour by train); Saltsjobaden, a seaside resort on an inlet of the Baltic (half-hour by car or train); Gripsholm Castle, a large for tress containing Sweden’s national portrait gallery (1 hour by car, 3 hours by steam ferry across Lake Malaren); Skokloster Castle, built at the close of the Thirty Years’ War and outfitted with late 17th-century furnishings and armaments (about 1-1/4 hours); Drottningholm Castle,

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Skyline of Stockholm, Sweden

with its beautiful gardens and 18thcentury opera theater (20 minutes by car or 45 minutes by boat); and Sigtuna, ancient Viking capital, site of several of the earliest churches in Sweden and of original 17th-century buildings (1 hour by car). Fo r l o n g e r t r i p s, t h e w a l l e d Hanseatic city of Visby on the Baltic island of Götland, is an overnight boat ride or a 1-hour flight away. Many summer resorts on Sweden’s west coast, including Bestad, hold international tennis matches. Lapland, north of the Arctic Circle, captivates visitors with its primeval beauty under a midnight sun. It is also possible to visit the crystal and glass factories in southern Sweden. In Smäland, factories are located in the towns of Kosta, Boda, and Orrefors, which are 200 miles south of Stockholm and near the island of Öland, another popular summer resort area. The mountain regions along Sweden’s border with Norway

attract skiers in the winter and hikers and whitewater rafters in the s u m m e r. S w e d e n ’s h e a r t l a n d , Dalarna, lies amid lakes and forests about a 4-hour drive north of Stockholm. The area is famous for its well-preserved folk culture, including the carved wooden horses that have become a symbol of Sweden o v e r s e a s. M a n y t o u r i s t s v i s i t Dalarna to participate in the midsummer celebrations, but regional cultural events, such as music and dance festivals are held throughout the year. Charter flights (usually to warm weather resort destinations) are popular and are one of the best bargains in Sweden. Resort packages may include a 1- or 2-week visit, hotels, and meals at prices less than that of regular airfare. Another convenient excursion opportunity is a weekend trip to Finland, Russia, Estonia, or Lithuania on regularly scheduled ferries that leave from

Stockholm. The shipping companies vie with each other to provide amenities on these crossings, whose profits derive mainly from tax-free sales on board.

Entertainment Stockholm has the Royal Opera and two symphony orchestras with performances from September to June. The Royal Dramatic Theater and more than 30 other theaters feature outstanding modern productions in Swedish. An English-speaking professional theater performs four plays a year. In summer, the opera performs period pieces at Drottningholm Court Theater, the world’s oldest (1766) theater still in use. Stockholm’s newest stage is the domed civic center known as Globen. Many well-known American entertainers making a European tour include a Globen performance. The facility also hosts international sports events, such as 563

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the Stockholm Open Tennis Tournament in the Fall. Swedes are avid moviegoers. More than 200 films are released in Sweden each year. They are shown in the original language with Swedish subtitles. Sweden supports the production of about 20 feature films a year through the Swedish Film Institute. Stockholm offers a variety of restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and discotheques similar to other European capitals. Jazz clubs, in particular, are a well-established tradition in the Old Town and the artists’ quarter of Soder. Spectator events in Stockholm include trotting races, horse-races, regattas, tennis, soccer, ice hockey, high-speed ice skating, ski jumping, wrestling, boxing, swimming, and international athletic meets.

Social Activities Social life in Stockholm depends to a great extent on individual effort and interests.The following clubs offer activities for Americans: American Citizens Abroad in Sweden. This club provides a forum for Americans living outside the United States. Citizenship, taxation, social security, voting, education and health care are among the many nonpartisan issues that ACA addresses. The American Club. For members of the business community, including Swedes doing business in the U.S. Monthly luncheons, periodic bridge and golf tournaments, and dances are held. American Women’s Club in Sweden. Membership open to all American women in Sweden, many of whom are married to Swedes. The Club has evening circles for those unable to attend functions during the day. Club USA. A Social club for the younger set (20-35) of Americans and Swedes in Stockholm that holds social events once a month. English-Speaking Community Club. Membership open to all 564

English-speakers in the Stockholm area. Cultural, recreational activities, and study clubs are organized for all age groups. International Women’s Club. For all English-speaking women: luncheons, bazaars, study groups, dances and tours.

Göteborg Göteborg is Sweden’s major seaport to the west, and its maritime traditions are more than 300 years old. When the foundations of the present city were laid in 1619, Dutchmen did the planning and building; and Germans, Britons, and Scotsmen helped the Swedes to pave the paths and roads of commerce through the city. Viking fleets gathered off the mouth of the Gota River as late as the 10th century to trade at big markets. The canals through the town originally formed the actual harbor area. Göteborg’s harbor is the biggest in Scandinavia, and the city ranks 35th among the world’s largest seaports. About 85 regular shipping lines include Göteborg in their traffic schedules. A ship arrives or departs, on the average, every 15 minutes. The amount of cargo loaded or unloaded is estimated at 20.5 million metric tons per year. Frequent ferry connections link Göteborg with Jutland in Denmark, Germany, the United Kingdom, and the Netherlands. The city is well laid out and clean. Many parkways and lovely parks with bright summer flowers add much to its charm. Gentle hills surround the city, inviting the hiker to stroll among the woods and lakes. Göteborg (or Gothenburg) is the home of about 15,000 enterprises and more than 300,000 employees. Some 720,000 people live in the immediate area (450,000 in the city proper), and about the same number visit here each year. Approximately 3,000 U.S. citizens live in or near Göteborg.

Recreation and Entertainment During summer, thousands of Göteborg’s inhabitants move to the country. After the dark, sunless winter, everyone is eager to enjoy fully the short summer, and coastal beaches and rocks are crowded with sunbathers. The west coast’s numerous summer resorts and beaches offer an abundance of recreational activities. Göteborg has a few large, modern, indoor swimming pools, most of which are open year round. Besides swimming, some pools offer gymnastic rooms, sun rooms, steam baths, and massage. Göteborg also has the largest indoor stadium in Scandinavia and a modern, centrally located amusement park, Liseberg, open during summer. Göteborg’s tennis clubs offer numerous indoor and outdoor courts. Squash also is a favorite local sport. Skating is a popular winter sport enjoyed on the many area lakes. Skiing is only occasionally possible because of the lack of snow in this region; the winter sports enthusiast usually goes to northern Sweden or Norway. The most popular sports on the west coast are boating and sailing, followed by fishing, golfing, and horseback riding. Charter travel is surprisingly inexpensive in this area, and in most parts of Sweden. In winter, trips to warmer areas are favored. Göteborg has three fairly large theaters. The City Theater (Stadsteate r n ) a n d t h e Fo l k T h e a t e r (Folkteatern) usually present plays. The Grand Theater (Stora Teatern) specializes in opera, operetta, and ballet. All productions are in Swedish. Concerts are presented each year from September to June in the Concert Hall (Konserthuset) and during summer in the Liseberg Concert Hall. American entertainers touring Sweden often include Göteborg on their schedule. Movie theaters show American, English, Swedish, and other productions with original soundtracks;

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Cities of the World Swedish subtitles are supplied as needed. Numerous restaurants offer a wide range of prices. Göteborg is particularly known for its excellent seafood. Several outdoor restaurants are open during summer, as are numerous sidewalk cafés.

Malmö Malmö located on the Öresund Strait opposite Copenhagen, Denmark, is Sweden’s third largest city. A fortified seaport with a population of about 235,000, Malmö is 300 miles south of Stockholm, in the Skåne region of southern Sweden. It is a major naval and commercial port, as well as an industrial center whose principal products include textiles, clothing, metal goods, processed food, and cement. The city was founded in the 12th century and was an important trade and shipping center. For most of its history, Malmö was a Danish possession until it passed to Sweden in 1658. Historical buildings include Malmöhaus Castle, begun in 1434, and now a museum. The city hall, b u i l t i n 1 5 4 6 , a n d S t . Pe t e r ’s Church, constructed in the 14th century, are also noteworthy.

Public square in Malmö, Sweden

library holdings include two-and-ahalf million volumes, 32,000 manuscripts, and more than 700,000 foreign dissertations. Uppsala is also the home of the Royal Society of Sciences, the Gustav Institute of HighEnergy Physics and Radiation Biology, and the Victoria, Linnaean, and Upplands museums. Ancient pagan burial mounds (from the city’s historic pre- Christian era) lie just beyond Uppsala.

Uppsala Uppsala, Sweden’s center of scholarship and history, is situated on the Fyrisån River in eastern Sweden, about 50 miles northwest of S t o c k h o l m . I t ’s p o p u l a t i o n i s 164,750. The city developed close to Gamla Uppsala, which was the country’s capital in the sixth century. An archiepiscopal see was established here in 1270. The city’s cathedral, built in that era, is considered the finest Gothic church in Sweden; it is the usual coronation place of Swedish kings, as well as the burial place of several of the country’s noted citizens. Uppsala is the site of the oldest university in northern Europe, the University of Uppsala, founded in 1477. Since its reorganization in 1595, it has been ranked among the world’s great educational institutions;

OTHER CITIES GÄVLE, 75 miles northeast of Västerås, is a seaport city that exports iron ore and wood pulp. Industries include textile mills and chemical plants. Chartered as a city in 1446, Gävle has a population today of 92,000. HALMSTAD, 45 miles north of Helsingborg, is a seaport on the Kattegat. With a population of nearly 77,000, Halmstad has a steel plant, paper mills, shipbuilding yards, fisheries, and breweries. Landmarks include a 14th-century church. HELSINGBORG (also spelled Hälsingborg) is a seaport in southern Sweden on the Oresund Strait.

© Macduff Everton/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

Connected by ferry to Helsingor, Denmark, Helsingborg is 275 miles southwest of Stockholm. A commercial and industrial center, it manufactures processed copper, rubber, e l e c t r ic al g o o d s, te x t i l es, a n d refined sugar. The city has been a trade center since the ninth century. During the Danish-Swedish conflicts of the 17th century, Helsingborg became part of Denmark; it was returned to Sweden in 1710 and was rebuilt. The modern industrial development of Helsingborg began in the mid-19th century. The current population is about 118,500. Historical sites include a castle (built between the 12th and 15th centuries), the Church of St. Mary (13th to 15th centuries), and numerous half-timber houses. JÖNKÖPING is a historic, old city in the south, situated 175 miles southwest of Stockholm. Chartered in 1284, it was twice burned by its own residents during wars between Sweden and Denmark. The 1809 treaty between the countries was signed here. Present-day Jönköping dates from the early 17th century. The making of matches is the principal industry; paper and textiles are also made. Landmarks include the Old Town Hall, the Court of Appeal (built in 1655, Sweden’s second oldest), and Christina Church. This county capital of 118,000 resi565

Sweden dents has a county museum. Jönköping is linked to Sweden’s main rail lines, and has water connections with the Kattegat (part of the No rth Sea) and the Baltic through the Göta Kanal. KARLSTAD lies on Tingvalla Island in Lake Vänern, about 170 miles west of Stockholm. Forest products and heavy industry are the economic mainstays here. An extensive export-import trade is also significant. Karlstad was named in honor of Charles IX, who granted it a charter in 1584. The area had been known as Tingvalla (Thingvalla), after the ting, or meetings of the legislature held here. In 1905, the treaty ending the union of Sweden and Norway was signed in the city. Karlstad, with an estimated population of 74,000, has large parks and wide avenues. Few structures predate a disastrous 1865 fire; one is the Östra Bron (or East Bridge, finished in 1770). The University of Karlstad opened in 1970. KRISTIANSTAD is a seaport in southern Sweden, about 50 miles northeast of Malmö, on the Baltic Sea. Founded in 1614 by Christian IV of Denmark, Kristianstad’s history was divided between Denmark and Sweden until 1678, when the city was ceded to the Swedes. With a current population of 69,000, Kristianstad is a trade center in an agricultural region. It has flour mills and slaughterhouses, as well as food processing and textile plants. LANDSKRONA is just a few miles south of Helsingborg. Also a seaport on the Oresund Strait, Landskrona’s industries include shipbuilding, metalworking, food processing, and tanning. First mentioned in 1412, Landskrona was the site of a Swedish victory over the Danes in 1677. The current population is 36,500. LINKÖPING, with a population of some 134,000, is a rail junction and manufacturing center. It is located 110 miles southwest of Stockholm in the southeastern region. This was a prominent commercial, cul566

Cities of the World tural, and religious hub in the Middle Ages. Many diets, or assemblies, were held in Linköping during the reign of Gustav I Vasa. The 1598 victory here of the Vasas over King Sigismund III (1566-1632) secured the Swedish throne for the Vasas and the Protestants. The beheading of four of Sigismund’s supporters in the main square two years later became known as “the Linköping Massacre.” The building of the Götaand Kinda canals and the Stockholm-Malmö railway made this an industrial center. Landmarks in Linköping include a 15thcentury cathedral and a 13th-cent u r y c a s t l e. A u n i v e r s i t y wa s founded here in 1970. NORRKÖPING is a seaport at the head of the Bråviken, a narrow inlet of the Baltic Sea. Situated in eastern Sweden about 90 miles south of Stockholm, Norrköping’s population is approximately 123,000. The city was founded in 1350, chartered in 1384, and burned by the Russians in 1719 during the Northern War. Today, Norrköping is a commercial, industrial, and transportation center. Its industries include those producing paper, rubber, furniture, radio and television sets, and processed food. Among the historical structures are Hedvig’s Church, built in the 17th century. ÖREBRO is one of Sweden’s oldest cities. Situated on the Svart River, 100 miles southwest of Stockholm in the south-central area, its population is approximately 125,00. The city’s economy is based on shoe and biscuit manufacture. Örebro has a modern look because it was rebuilt after an 1854 fire. Some of its impressive historic edifices include a restored Swedish Renaissance castle, used both as a museum and governor’s residence; the Kungsstugan, or King’s House, dating to the 15th century and one of the country’s best-preserved wooden buildings; and a 13th-century Gothic church. Örebro played a significant role in Swedish history. The national hero, Engelbrekt Engelbrektsson (1390-1436), lived here, and the 16th-century church reformers, Olaus and Laurentius

Petri, were born in the city. Many crucial diets, or assemblies, took place in Örebro, especially that of 1810. At that time, French marshal Jean Bernadotte was elected king of Sweden as Charles XIV John. Örebro enjoys good rail and boat connections, and is at the junction of national highways. VÄSTERÅS is a port on Lake Mälaren in eastern Sweden, about 70 miles northwest of Stockholm. Founded in 1100, it became one of the country’s great medieval cities; a 13th-century cathedral and a 14th-century fortified castle remain. Västerås was the venue of the 1527 parliament which formally introduced the Reformation into Sweden. Today, Västerås is a major inland port, shipping iron ore, lumber, and iron goods. The center of the Swedish electrical industry, the city also produces machinery, glass, and metalware. The current population is 128,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Sweden is bounded on the west by Norway and an arm of the North Sea, on the north by Norway and Finland, and on the east and south by the Baltic Sea. The country is long and narrow, encompassing an area of 174,000 square miles, a little larger than France or the state of California. In the northwest are m o u n t a i n s, a n d l a k e s a b o u n d throughout Sweden. To the south and east are forests, fertile valleys, and plains. Along Sweden’s rocky coast, interspersed with bays and inlets, are many islands, the largest of which are Gotland and Öland. Despite its northern latitude, Sweden’s climate is not excessively cold due to the proximity of the Gulf Stream and the Baltic Sea. The mean annual temperature is 48°F. Stockholm is situated at approximately the same latitude as Juneau, Alaska. During most of December

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Cities of the World and early January, the sun does not rise before 9 am and sets as early as 2:30 pm. Snow usually falls in January, February, and March. The average temperature range for January is 27°F–30°F (Washington, D.C. is 27°F–43°F). Spring comes late, with snow possible even in May. By June, daylight is almost continuous, and the vegetation is luxuriant. In July, the average temperature range is 57°F–72°F (Washington, D.C. is 68°F–88°F). Many firms close down for the month so that the entire staff can take vacation. The average annual rainfall in Stockholm is 22 inches, compared with 39 for Washington, D.C. New arrivals often have the impression that the statistics should be reversed, and for good reason. It doesn’t rain more in Stockholm, but it does rain more often: 164 days a year compared with 113 for Washington, D.C.

Population Sweden’s population is roughly 8.6 million, and almost 83 percent live in urban communities. Sweden’s small Same (Lapp) population numbers about 17,000. About 10 percent of the population are immigrants, with Finns in the majority. Turks, Greeks, and Yugoslavs composed much of the first immigrant wave in the 1960s and 1970s. More recent refugee groups come from the Middle East, Latin America, Eastern Europe and most recently from Bosnia. Stockholm has a population of 670,000—1.5 million, including the suburbs.

Public Institutions Sweden is a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary government. The unicameral Parliament (Riksdag) is the sole governing body. The Prime Minister is the political chief executive. Direct parliamentary elections take place every 4 years. Sweden has one of the world’s highest percentage of women in parliament: in 1998, 149 of 349 members were women.

Arts, Science, and Education As exemplified by the annual Nobel Prize ceremonies, Sweden is a leading nation in the field of education and has 33 institutions of higher learning. Among these are the world-renowned Karolinska Institute of Medicine; universities in Uppsala, Lund, Stockholm, Goteborg, Umea, and Linkoping; three technical institutes; and specialized professional schools for dentistry, pharmacy, veterinary sciences, agriculture, forestry, economics, social work, art, music, journalism, and library science. Stockholm University administers the Institute for English-speaking Students, which is divided into three sections: International Graduate School (IGS), Stockholm Junior Year, and Swedish-language courses. The emphasis is on Swedish-language and literature, economics, social and political sciences, and international affairs. An American degree is required for admission to the IGS, itself a nondegree program. Academic subjects, Swedish language, and arts and crafts are offered in 11 nationwide adult education programs. These are subsidized by the government and open to foreign residents at modest cost. Several courses are also offered for English-speaking foreigners on Swedish history, culture, and computer science. Stockholm and its environs are rich in museums, galleries, and historical sites.

Commerce and Industry The development of a skilled and disciplined labor force led by creative entrepreneurs provided the basis for Sweden's transformation from a poor, rural society into a highly productive industrial economy. The transformation, completed by the early 1930s, was fueled by an abundance of forest products, iron ore, and waterpower. Untouched by the ravages of World War II, Sweden's industries produced and exported the machinery, vehicles, ships, and other products and raw

materials that paid the bill for the present elaborate Swedish social welfare system. This system is now under examination as Sweden adapts to its new European Union membership and the heightened competition this status brings. Sweden exports 30% of its gross domestic product. The U.S. is Sweden's third largest trading partner, after Germany and the U.K. The Swedish labor force of 4.3 million workers is highly skilled, and 87% belong to trade unions. In most families, both husband and wife work; and females comprise 48% of the work force. Women are paid approximately 80% of what men earn, and men predominate in highly paid white-collar positions.

Transportation Automobiles If vehicles are purchased new in Sweden, modifications do not have to be made to meet Swedish standards; and such vehicles can be sold tax-free two years after purchase.Virtually all automobile makes are represented in Stockholm including Volvo, Saab, Ford, Chrysler, and Toyota. All automobiles must have an annual inspection. Depending on the make, model, and year, the automobile may require minor modification to pass inspection. The Swedish inspection is rigorous and focuses particularly on the exhaust emission system for leaks and a high percentage of carbon monoxide. Be sure any car you bring into Sweden is in good condition so that inspection problems can be minimized. When you import a car into Sweden, you will have to pay a customs processing fee of about SEK 150 (about $20) and an inspection and registration fee of about SEK 900 (about $120). Additionally, there is a refundable fee of about $500 that must be paid “upfront”-refunds are processed usually within one month. The foregoing restrictions do not apply to the purchase of a used vehi567

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© Macduff Everton/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

View down Rosenlunds Canal, Goteborg, Sweden

cle in Sweden. You may purchase and sell a used car at any time. Because of road salt and gravel used on the roads in winter, it is a good idea to undercoat your car. Winter tires are advisable (and may become mandatory) from early November through mid-April. Sweden has reciprocal agreements with some other countries that allow you to use those licenses. The minimum driving age in Sweden is 18. Sweden has very strict drunkdriving laws. Driving after drinking even a very modest amount of alcohol is a serious offense that carries a mandatory fine, loss of license, and a jail sentence. You must purchase third-party liability insurance from a local Swedish company. Collision insurance can be purchased from several American or Swedish companies. You may want to check with your current auto insurer to see if it 568

offers coverage in Sweden. If you have a letter from your current insurer stating your number of accident-free years, you may be able to obtain a reduced rate from a Swedish insurer.

Local Greater Stockholm has an extensive network of buses, trains, and subways. For those living downtown, commuting to work by public transportation is convenient and relatively inexpensive. Those living in the suburbs often commute by car. The use of public transportation is actively encouraged by Swedish authorities, and parking is limited and expensive. Cabs are plentiful and not much more expensive than in the D.C. area. Bicycles are very popular, and throughout the city and suburbs there are extensive bicycle paths that allow one to ride free from motor traffic.

Regional Arlanda airport is about 25 miles north of Stockholm. Bus or taxi transportation for the 45-minute drive into the city is easily arranged on arrival. A rail connection from downtown to the airport is under construction and should be finished in 1999. The train system in Sweden is excellent, but travel by train is relatively expensive. Round trip from Stockholm to Goteborg, for example, is about $140. There are also bus connections from Stockholm with all major Swedish towns. Bus travel is relatively inexpensive. For example, round trip from Stockholm to Goteborg is $45.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Sweden has a modern, reliable telecommunications system with direct dial service to the U.S. Rates are

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Cities of the World lower than elsewhere in Europe, and the trend is toward the costbased rate structure used in the U.S. Bring an AT&T, MCI, or Sprint phone card. Internet and on-line service connections are widely available at reasonable prices. There are no restrictions on personal computers, which are available locally at reasonable prices.

Mail International airmail from the U.S. is generally delivered in Stockholm within a week. Surface delivery letters take approximately 4-5 weeks to arrive by international mail; packages take about 68 weeks.

Radio and TV Short-wave VOA broadcasts can be received morning and evening. BBC shortwave can be heard almost 24 hours daily. Radio Sweden broadcasts daily in English in Stockholm on the FM band and currently offers some programs from National Public Radio and the BBC. Swedish TV's two independent networks together broadcast 137 hours of news programming each week and about 7 hours of English programming a day. U.S. programs with Swedish subtitles on these channels average 12 hours a week. Other foreign-made programs in the original language account for another 28 hours of weekly programming. The independent, commercial broadcasting networks are more oriented toward entertainment than the state-owned networks. Nearly 45% of the Swedish population has access to cable TV Cable subscribers may choose from CNN, MTV, Discovery, Lifestyle, Screensport, and Worldnet from the U.S.; the BBC, Super Channel, Skynews, Skynet, and Eurosport from Britain. Programming is also available from Germany, France, Norway, Finland, Russia, and Sweden. Satellite dishes are available from a number of vendors. VHS video is popular and there are many rental outlets. Swedish TV uses the PAL system. American TV uses the NTSC system. Other than with NTSC videos, a U.S. TV cannot be used in Sweden.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Same day editions of most leading European newspapers, including the International Herald Tribune, are available at newsstands or by subscription. The Washington Post and New York Times are usually available for next-day purchase at high prices. International mail subscriptions are available for most news magazines. Stockholm bookstores have a great variety of American and British magazines, books and paperbacks. Stockholm’s public libraries also contain ample selections of English-language materials, including children’s books.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Sweden is justly famous for its comprehensive quality health care system, and Stockholm is well provided with modern hospitals and dental facilities. Nevertheless, securing medical care often proves frustrating for American’s in Stockholm, who find themselves among a small minority not covered under the state medical insurance system. The national health facilities are available on a fee basis, but it takes time and personal commitment to learn how to access the health care you will need. Stockholm also has private health practitioners, clinics, and hospitals that operate along lines familiar to Americans.

13 percent of the area within the city limits, are fit for swimming.

Preventive Measures Most medicines for colds, sinus conditions, and allergies require a prescription if purchased at a Swedish pharmacy. Flu shots are available in the fall. Children can take fluoride supplements, available locally. Some people chose to be inoculated against tick-borne encephalitis; wear suitable clothing when camping or hiking.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s Day Jan. 6 . . . . . . . . . . .Epihpany Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .Easter Monday* May 1 . . . . . . . . . . .Swedish Labor Day May/June. . . . . . . .Ascension Day* May/June. . . . . . . .Pentecost* May/June. . . . . . . .Whitmonday* June . . . . . . . . . . . .Midsummer Eve* Sept. 2 . . . . . . . . . .Labor Day Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . .All Saints' Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . .Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .Boxing Day *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Community Health Public health standards are high and monitored closely; few special precautions are necessary. You will need to adjust to the experience of living at 60° North, where winters are long and dark, summers short and intensely light. Many areas of Sweden are densely wooded and the incidence of Lyme disease is comparable to the Northeastern USA. Colds and flu are the most common ailments here. Rheumatism, bronchial ailments, and sinus trouble may be aggravated during winter. Humidifiers can be purchased locally. Stockholm takes pride that its waters and lakes, which make up

Stockholm has daily, direct connections with the U.S, through American, Delta, and United airlines. A valid U.S. driver's license may be used while visiting Sweden, but the drivers must be at least 18 years of age. Driving in Sweden is on the right. Road signs use standard international symbols and Swedish text. Many urban streets have traffic lanes reserved for public transport only. Emergency service s (equivalent to 911 in the U.S.) for traffic accidents and emergency roadside assistance can be reached by calling 112. 569

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A valid passport is required. Tourist and business travelers do not need visas for stays of less than 90 days. Since March 2001, Sweden entry visas are governed by the rules in the Schengen Agreement. Under the Agreement, all the European Union countries (except Ireland and the United Kingdom), as well as the European Economic Area countries of Norway and Iceland, have opened their borders to one another. A visa issued for a visit to one of these countries is normally valid in all of the other countries as well. For further information on entry requirements, contact the Royal Swedish Embassy at 1501 M. Street, NW, Washington, D.C. 20005, tel: (202) 467-2600, or the Swedish Consulate General in New York at (212) 7515900 or check their homepage at http://www.webcom.com/sis. No vaccination or health certificates are required. Americans living in or visiting Sweden are encouraged to register at the consular section of the U.S. Embassy in Stockholm and obtain updated information on travel and security within Sweden. The U.S. Embassy is located at Dag Hammarskjoldsvag 31, telephone (46)(8) 783-5300, fax (46)(8) 660-5879 and after-hours telephone (46)(8) 7835310.

Pets Sweden has strict quarantine regulations for all pets. A four month quarantine is required upon arrival in Sweden, except for those animals that have lived for a least one year in and EU country and are brought directly from that country to Sweden. All pets are subject to veterinary examination at entry and will be admitted only if healthy. A quarantine kennel for dogs is located outside Stockholm in Vallentuna. Cats can be quarantined in Stenungsund or Lidkoping, both outside of Goteborg. Space availability in these kennels is very limited and a six month waiting list is not unusual. The kennel cost is about 15,000 SEK for a cat ($1, 950) and about 25,000 SEK ($3,250) for a 570

dog, plus veterinary charges. Visits after the first month may not be permitted. ONce space has been secured you must apply for the required import permit. The most important provision of the permit is that space in the quarantine kennel has been secured. If any pet is shipped to Sweden without the proper permits, it will remain at the airport for 48 hours until arrangements can be made for shipment back to the originating country.

Firearms and Ammunition The following non-automatic firearms an d ammunition may be brought into Sweden: Handguns: No handguns and no ammunition. Hunting Rifles: 2 (includes shotgun but no elephant guns); with 200 rounds each, and 2,000 rounds of skeet loaded shotgun shells.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The official monetary unit is the Swedish krona (plural: kronorSEK); 100 ore =1 krona. Bills are in denominations of 1,000, 500, 100, 50, and 20. Coins are in denominations of 10, 5, and 1 kronor, and 50 ore. Banks and international newspapers have current rates of exchange. You can access your American checking account with an ATM card on the Cirrus or Plus system; ATM machines are common. It is common to open a local personal kronor checking account or post office (PostGiro) account to pay local bills. Credit cards are widely accepted. Sweden has a value-added tax (VAT) of 25% on merchandise, 12% on food and 18% on hotel and restaurant services. Sweden uses the metric system of weights and measures.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on Sweden. Andersson, Ingvar. A History of Sweden. Greenword Press: Westport, CT, 1975. Bergman, G. A Short History of the Swedish Language. The Swedish Institute: Stockholm, 1973. Bergman, Ingmar. The Magic Lantern. Penguin Books: London, 1988. Bernitz, Ulf, and Draper, John. Consumer Protection in Sweden. Liber forlag: Stockholm, 1986. Carlgren, W. M. Swedish Foreign Policy During the Second World War. Translated by A. Spencer. St. Martins Press: New York, 1977. Einhorn, Eric, and Logue, John. Modern Welfare States. Politics and Policies in Social Democratic Scandinavia. Praeger Publishers: New York, 1989. Esping-Andersen, Gosta. Politics Against Markets. The Social Democratic Road to Power. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1988. Frangsmyr, Tore. Science in Sweden. The Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences 1739-1989. Science History Publications: Canton, MA, 1989. Graham-Campbell, James and Kidd, Dafydd. The Vikings. W Morrow & Co.: New York, 1980. Gustavson, Carl G. The Small Giant: Sweden Enters the Industrial Era. Ohio University Press: Athens, Ohio, 1986. Hadenius, Stig, and Lindgren, Ann. On Sweden. The Swedish Institute: Stockholm, 1990. Hadenius, Stig. Swedish Politics During the 20th Century. The Swedish Institute: Stockholm, 1990.

Sweden

Cities of the World Koblik, Steven, ed. Sweden's Development from Poverty to Affluence, 1750-1970. Routledge & Kegan Paul: London and Boston, 1980. Liman, Ingemar. Discover Sweden. Illustris: Malmo, 1989. Moberg, Wilhelm. The Emigrants; The Immigrants; The Last Letter Home. Popular Library Press: New York, 1971.

Scott, Franklin D. Sweden: The Nation's History. Southern Illinois Press: Carbondale, IL, 1988.

Stromholm, Stig. An Introduction to Swedish Law. Norstedts: Stockholm, 1988.

Solvell, Orjan, Zander, Ivo, and Porter, Michael. Advantage Sweden. Norstedts: Stockholm, 1991.

Sundelius, Bengt. The Committed Neutral-Sweden's Foreign Policy. Westview Press: Boulder, Co, 1989.

Strindberg, August. Strindberg: Five Plays. University of California Press: Berkeley, 1983.

Tilton, Tim. The Political Theory of Swedish Social Democracy. Clarendon Press: Oxford, 1990.

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Geneva, Switzerland

SWITZERLAND Swiss Confederation

Major Cities: Bern, Geneva, Zurich, Basel, Lausanne, Winterthur Other Cities: Aarau, Arosa, Biel, Chur, Fribourg, Gstaad, Locarno, Lucerne, Lugano, Montreux, Neuchâtel, Saint Gall, Schaffhausen, St. Moritz, Thun, Zug

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated December 1996. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION SWITZERLAND is all the travel brochures say it is and more. The country’s natural beauty, the courtesy of its people, and the stability of the Swiss way of life make living here interesting and relaxing. Rugged mountains dotted with ski resorts, lakes set in rolling farmlands, and arcaded towns crisscrossed by narrow cobblestone streets are some of the sights that you will be pleased to discover. Swiss cities, while retaining the charm of their age, offer a wide range of modern facilities and cultural opportunities. The Swiss people are proud of their national identity, yet they represent a stimulating variety of cultural and lin-

guistic backgrounds. The nation itself, while traditionally neutral, is active on the international scene.

centrated in the major cities of Zurich, Geneva, and Basel.

If you are interested in getting to know Switzerland and the rest of Europe, you will find ample opportunity. A visit here is a pleasant and rewarding experience.

Shopping facilities are very good, although much more expensive than in the U.S. Markets and specialty shops, such as bakeries, milk/ cheese shops, grocery stores, and butcher shops are entirely satisfactory. Several supermarkets exist, and a shopping center (mall) can be reached in about 15 minutes by car from Bern. However, shopping hours are not as convenient as in the U.S., with stores closing at 6 or 6:30 pm except for one weekday evening when the stores in downtown Bern are open until 9 pm. On Saturdays shops stay open until 1 or 4 pm depending on each individual store or town.

Food

MAJOR CITIES Bern Bern is a charming city built around a bend in the Aare River. Its “Old Europe” atmosphere is evident in arcaded walks along cobblestone streets, towering cathedrals, fountains, clock towers, and bustling open markets. Yet at the same time Bern offers modern shopping facilities and ever-expanding suburbs with new apartment buildings. The city lies in west-central Switzerland, with the Alps to the south and the Jura Mountains to the northwest. Bern has a population of about 123,000 (December 2000 estimate) and is the seat of the executive and legislative branches of the Sw i s s G o v e r n m e n t . T h e r e a r e approximately 30,000 Americans living in Switzerland, mostly con-

Fresh fruits and vegetables, chocolates, dairy products, breads and pastries, dried soups and sauces, and jams and preserves are excellent. Butter and meat are of good quality, although some meat cuts differ from those in the U.S. Many varieties of canned goods are sold locally. Frozen foods are available in an increasingly wide selection. In general, Swiss prices are about 60% higher than in the U.S. Some foods are only available in the few stores that feature imports, for example, maple and other flavorings, Knox gelatin, baking soda, molasses, and 573

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syrup. Good baby food products are available.

Clothing Bring clothes suitable for a temperate U.S. climate. It is advisable to bring complete winter clothing, good foot gear for hiking, and good raingear for changeable weather. For social occasions, Swiss dress informally, though still conservatively. Younger Swiss are much more casual than older Swiss. Women’s styles can range from jeans, slacks, and pant suits to dresses; while men range from jeans and sweaters to jackets. Good-quality men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing can be purchased in Switzerland, but prices are much higher than in the U.S. Men’s tailoring is excellent but dressmakers are hard to find. Shoes are of excellent quality; however, individuals with narrow or extra-wide feet should bring a good supply because these widths are extremely hard to find. Made-to-measure shoes are available. Both English-speaking schools require smaller children to wear slippers indoors and white-soled gym shoes in gym. The International School of Berne (ISB) requires black gym shorts and red shirts.

Supplies and Services The usual consumer goods, toiletries, cosmetics, and household supplies are sold in Switzerland but prices are much higher than in the U.S. One should bring highly specialized drugs, as it is sometimes difficult to find the exact equivalent. Community services are good. Laundry, dry cleaning, shoe repair, equipment repair, and beauty and barber services are all available and good, but the cost for these services is much higher than in the U.S.

Religious Activities Bern has many Protestant denominations, the dominant one being Reformed Church. Other groups include a Church of Jesus Christ of 574

Latter-day Saints, a Christian Science church, a Seventh-Day Adventist church, and others. The city also has several Roman Catholic churches, a Jewish synagogue, an Islamic center, and a Russian Orthodox church. Most services are conducted in German. One of the Catholic churches, however, has one Sunday Mass in English. In addition, a small Anglican church near the U.S. Embassy serves as the parish church for the U.S., British, and Canadian Protestant communities. All of its services are in English.

Education Most American children attend either the International School of Berne (ISB) or The British School of Bern. The British School goes from preschool to grade 6 and the ISB from preschool through grade 12. English-speaking teachers staff ISB and the British School. Both schools are modern with adequately sized rooms, a library, and an outside play area. ISB also has a gym, computer lab, science lab, and an arts center. Both schools provide bus services at parental cost to many areas of Bern. Letter system grades, teacher comments, and parent conferences are used at both schools, and standards of achievement compare favorably with those in the U.S. The British School uses a trimester system, with 2-week holidays at Christmas and Easter, a 1-week fall vacation, and the traditional Swiss 1-week “ski holiday” in February. Summer vacation is from the last week of June to the last week of August. The ISB has a quarterly calendar, and its holidays are about the same as those of the British School. But holiday calendars are not synchronized, so that students at one school may be on holiday when the other school is in session. The ISB is a nonprofit, coeducational private school run by a Board of Directors of up to nine persons elected by the Parents Association. It is accredited by the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of Independent Schools and successfully completed its 10-year re-accredita-

tion in l994. Its 180 to 210 students come from the diplomatic corps and multinational business and indust r y, w i t h o v e r 3 0 n a t i o n s represented. The curriculum is international in nature. At the high school level, students may pursue the International Baccalaureate program. This is broader and deeper than most U.S. high school curricula. Instruction is in English, but French and German are offered as foreign languages in grades 1 to 12. English as a Second Language instruction is available for students whose mother tongue is not English. The school has a comprehensive special education program for learning disabled students and for highly gifted students. It is an optimal Match school working very closely with the Center for Talented Youth at Johns Hopkins University. T h e s c h o o l ’s t e s t i n g p r o g r a m includes the International Baccalaureate, the College Board SAT and Achievement Tests and standardized Educational Records Bureau testing. The school is supported by a grant from the Office of Overseas Schools of the Department of State. More specific information may be obtained from that office. Founded in 1988, the British School is an independent, nonprofit day school located in Muri, a suburb of Bern. The school provides a modern British curriculum. The teaching allows each child to develop to his/ her particular need through both same-age and cross-age groupings. Present enrollment is approximately 45 students in pre-kindergarten through grade 6. American parents with children at the school have, on the whole, been very satisfied with their involvement and the care and attention given to their students. The English Speaking Play-group takes children from 3 to 5 years old who speak English or, in limited n u m b e r s, w h o w i s h t o l e a r n English. Activities include singing, art, music and movement, stories, and poems as well as supervised

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Cities of the World games and play. The groups have a maximum of 12 children. There is also an English Montessori School in Bern for children 3 to 6 years old. The L’École Française de Berne also provides a preschool for ages 2-1/2 to 5 years old. Occasionally it is possible to enroll in a Swiss neighborhood nursery school; classes are conducted in Swiss German.

Special Educational Opportunities The University in Bern, one of the la r g e s t i n S w i t zer la n d , o f f e r s courses in seven areas of study to undergraduate and graduate students. English literature classes are given in English, all others in German. Specific information on this and other universities may be obtained from each institution or from the Central Office of the Swiss Universities, Sonneggstrasse 26, 8006 Zurich. The American College of Switzerland at Leysin (a campus of Schiller International University), is about 1-1/2 hours away from Bern by car. It is a fully accredited (by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools) 4-year college in Switzerland. It offers five programs leading to a B.A., B.S., or M.B.A. degree. More information may be obtained from the Office of Admission, 1854 Leysin, Switzerland. The Zurich Campus of City University of Bellevue, Washington, is 1 to 1 1/2 hours from Bern by car, and slightly closer by train. It is an accredited English-speaking college and offers both undergraduate and master’s programs in business administration. More information can be obtained from the college at the Educational Programs of City University, AG, Raemi Str. 71, 8006 Zurich. Webster University of St. Louis in Geneva, 1-3/4 hours from Bern by car, offers both undergraduate and master’s of arts programs. Further information can be obtained from the college at the Center for International Reform John Knox, 27

4 bears (Bern’s heraldic symbol) in the “bear pit"

Chemin des Crets de Pregny, 1218 Grand-Saconnex/Geneva. Franklin College in Lugano, 5 hours from Bern, is an accredited Englishspeaking college offering A.A., B.A., and M.B.A. degrees. More information can be obtained from the college, 6902 Lugano, Switzerland. There are also several campuses of the European University specializing in a B.A. or M.A. in business with instruction in English. Information can be obtained at Route de Fontanivent CH-1817, FontaniventMontreux, Switzerland. There are also several noted hotel s ch o o l s, i n c l u d i n g o n e r u n b y Schiller University. For information, write Hotel Europe, CH-6390, Ergelverg, Switzerland. Night classes in Bern are offered in a wide variety of subjects including business skills, hobbies and crafts, sports, home economics, and the arts. All classes are in German. Several language schools have group lessons taught in German, but private lessons with English-speaking instructors are available. The International School of Bern offers beginning and intermediate courses in German and French; and the English-speaking social clubs have

Courtesy of MaryBeth Mailloux

ongoing conversational classes in both languages. Music lessons are offered at the Bern Conservatory, as well as by private teachers.

Sports Many opportunities are available for individual sports. Tennis, hot-air ballooning, windsurfing, sailing, rafting, hang gliding, golf, riding, skiing, skating, boating, fishing, hunting, swimming, climbing, and hiking can all be enjoyed in or near Bern. Lessons are given in many of these sports. Although no public tennis courts exist, there are several private clubs where lessons are offered by licensed instructors, some of whom are English speaking. Several riding stables in and around Bern offer indoor instruction to groups and individuals. Sailing lessons are given on nearby Lake Thun, and mountaineering is taught by the Swiss Alpine Club. The lessons are nearly always in German and/or French. Skiing is Switzerland’s major sport. There are many ski areas near Bern, and all have English-speaking ski instructors. Both group and private lessons are cheaper than in the U.S. The nearest golf club is a 25-minute drive from Bern. A number of excel575

Switzerland lent golf courses can be found throughout Switzerland. Hunting is an expensive sport, and a difficult annual examination must be passed to obtain a license. The Swiss are avid shooters, and rifle and pistol ranges are widespread. Stream fishing for trout, graylings, and pike is popular and fishing equipment is available, but a license must be obtained and strict rules adhered to. A public outdoor swimming pool near the U.S. Embassy is converted into an ice-skating rink during winter. Occasional ice hockey matches are held there. Other public swimming pools are located throughout Bern and the surroundings. The most popular spectator sports are ice hockey, soccer, track and field events, and ski competitions. Horse shows and bicycle and motorcycle races and rallies also take place in or near Bern. Sports equipment is generally more expensive than in the U.S. Good used equipment is also available at the beginning of each ski season.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Bern is centrally located for travel to all parts of Switzerland by car or train. The city is within a few hours’ driving distance of France, Italy, Germany, and Austria. Magnificent scenery and charming restaurants and hotels add to the local color.

Cities of the World No restrictions are placed on photography except where posted, such as in military areas.

Entertainment The variety of entertainment in Bern is impressive though little cosmopolitan night life exists. About 20 film theaters show American, French, German, and Italian movies. Many American movies are shown in Bern in English (subtitles are in German and French). The City Theater offers operas, plays, ballets, and operettas, while smaller theaters offer plays and cabarets. Guest performances by Swiss and international classical and jazz musicians are common. An excellent international jazz festival takes place every spring. Lectures, travelogues, etc., are given frequently. Most of the performances are presented in German, although some nightclub acts are in French. Bern has four nightclubs, several bars, and many restaurants featuring Swiss specialties. In general, Swiss law prohibits young children from attending film theaters at night. The principal local festivities are Swiss National Day (August 1), the Onion Market, held on the last Monday in November, and Sammi Klaus Day (December 5). The Onion Market features hundreds of market stalls selling onions and handicrafts. The Fasnacht (Carnival) celebration is held in late winter at the beginning of the Lenten season.

Social Activities Countless opportunities exist for camping and hiking near Bern and all over Switzerland. The city is surrounded by wooded areas that are perfect for picnics. Bern itself boasts a botanical garden, a rose garden overlooking the old town, an outdoor zoo with play areas for children, the famous bear pits, and a local children’s amusement park. Bern has several museums and a number of small art galleries, plus occasional exhibitions and fairs. Outstanding museums are also found in other Swiss cities. 576

English speaking clubs in Bern are The American Women’s Club, The International Club of Bern, and The Swiss-American Society. The International Club of Bern includes men and women from the international community. It sponsors a yearly ball, dinners, lectures, and some food preparation classes. Clubs often have programs specifically for children as well as events for families. The International Teens of Bern, a club for teens 14 years and older, has been active in recent years. Boy Scout and Cub Scout units are also available, but often

depend on involvement.

family

member

Geneva Geneva (Genève in French, Genf in German) is a part, but a somewhat atypical one, of Switzerland. With its metropolitan population of 409,000 (175,000 in the city proper) and its teeming international organizations, it is the center of more intergovernmental activity per capita than any other city in the world. The diplomatic community (members of national missions and intergovernmental organizations and their families) exceeds 22,000; international governmental and nongovernmental agencies with headquarters or major offices in Geneva total 100; and approximately the same number of nations maintain permanent missions in the city. The main focus of international activity is the Palais des Nations— once the home of the League of Nations and now the seat of the United Nations’ European Office. The close to 5,000 annual meetings which take place at the Palais make it the world’s busiest international conference center. Geneva is often a front-page dateline during a summit conference or a high-level political meeting. But even when Geneva diplomacy is not making headlines, it is still working steadily to improve international relations. Major activities in Geneva include the development of programs for combating disease; for expanding trade; for helping refugees and migrants seeking lives free of tyranny, strife, and hunger; for training people in industry and agriculture; and for utilizing weather and communications satellites to the fullest. Representatives of the U.S. and the Soviet Union meet in Geneva for the Strategic Arms Limitation Talks (SALT). Arms control and disarmament is another major part of continuing Geneva diplomacy; the Conference of the Committee on Disarmament

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Cities of the World (CCD)—the world’s main multilater al disarmament negotiating forum—holds annual sessions in Geneva and considers treaties on all matters of weaponry. The following are among the major intergovernmental organizations headquartered here: International Labor Organization (ILO); World Health Organization (WHO); Intern a t i o n a l Te l e c o m m u n i c a t i o n s Union (ITU); World Meteorological Organization (WMO); World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO); U.N. Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD); U.N. Economic Commission for Europe (ECE); General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT); U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR); and Intergovernmental Committee for Migration (ICM). The major nongovernmental organizations in Geneva include: International Committee of the Red Cross and the League of Red Cross Societies; World Council of Churches; World Jewish Congress; International Commission of Jurists; World Scout Bureau; European Broadcasting Union; Pan-African Institute for Development; and International Organization for Standardization.

United States Mission The U.S. Permanent Mission to International Organizations is headed by a permanent representative with the rank of ambassador. U.S. delegations are staffed by mission officers, by delegates from the Department of State and other U.S. Government departments and agencies, and from the private sector. The principal objectives of the U.S. Mission include promoting U.S. policies in international organizations and developing contacts with other foreign missions; serving as a channel of communication between international organizations and U.S. Government departments and agencies with similar interests; providing substantive and administrative support to U.S. delegations; reporting Geneva developments and making policy recommendations to

Buildings along Geneva waterfront

the U.S. Government; assisting the media in staying informed on U.S. policies.

The City Geneva is located on the Rhone (Rhône) River where it emerges from Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) in the extreme southwest corner of Switzerland. The Canton of Geneva is surrounded on three sides by France, and is connected to the rest of Switzerland by a narrow strip of land that runs along the west side of the lake. Lying on gently rolling hills along both banks of the Rhone at an altitude of 1,200 feet, Geneva is dominated on the northwest by the Jura Mountains and on the south by the Salève, a long, low mountain that forms a distinctive landmark. Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe, is visible on clear days. The other ranges of the Alps—the Haute Savoie in France and the Swiss Alps on the Valais— rise steeply at the opposite end of Lake Geneva, 50 miles away. Geneva’s temperate climate is variable because of the city’s location. The weather is generally pleasant from April to December. Winters are often damp with overcast skies, but are never severe. Although nearby mountains are snow-covered throughout the winter, Geneva

Courtesy of MaryBeth Mailloux

itself gets little snow. Temperatures rarely drop below freezing during the day. Summers are generally mild and pleasant with a few hot spells. Frequent rains fall in spring and early summer; temperatures are cool and crisp in both spring and autumn. The norma l s ea sonal weather is affected from time to time by two winds characteristic of many parts of Switzerland: the bise, a north wind that blows from Lake Geneva and brings a chilling cold in winter and clear skies and pleasant temperatures in summer; and the föhn, a south wind that is often oppressively warm and humid. The bridge to understanding the real spirit of Geneva is the realization that it is an international city. It is not only a geographical crossroads of Europe, but also a crossroads of international minds. Much of its population is comprised of diplomats and international civil servants who come to Geneva for a few years’ assignment and frequently end up staying forever. It is a peaceful city and its name is symbolic of peace. Geneva, more than any other city of its size, is polyglot. French is the language of everyday dealings, but German, Italian, Spanish, English, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, and 577

Switzerland Arabic are also spoken commonly in its streets. Probably every language can be heard sooner or later in the corridors of the Palais.

Geneva’s History Historically, Geneva is of great interest. Founded in the first century B.C. by a Celtic tribe, it became an outpost of the Roman Empire and an important episcopal see. After the empire collapsed, Geneva served as a pawn in dynastic and church politics of the feudal period until the 14th century, when it achieved independence. Its first official links with the Swiss Confederation were in the form of alliances in the 16th century with Fribourg and Bern, undertaken to protect the city’s independence. Shortly thereafter, the Protestant Reformation spread to Geneva and, after the arrival of John Calvin in 1536, the city was governed by a Calvinist theocracy. It became the chief center of Reformation doctrine on the continent and a haven for Protestant refugees from all over Europe. The Reformation and the period of Calvinist rule have had deep and lasting effects on the city’s political, cultural, and economic life. French Protestant refugees, incidentally, i n t r o d u c e d wa t c h m a k i n g i n t o Geneva, thus establishing Switzerland’s highly important export industry.

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Cities of the World While the Old City, a section on the left bank of the Rhone, is composed largely of buildings dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries, Geneva is mostly a modern city, reflecting growth in population and expansion in commerce and other affairs of the past century. It seems smaller than it is. From the center of town one can walk to most of its important landmarks within 10 minutes. From the Old City and its maze of picturesque, narrow streets crowded with antique shops, visitors can stroll along a lakeside promenade for a view of Mont Blanc or the Jet d’Eau, an incredible “fountain” created in 1886 by an engineer in charge of Geneva’s water supply. The water rushes from the base of the fountain at a speed of 125 miles per hour, with an output of 110 gallons per second. More than 100,000 American tourists and other temporary visitors pass through the city annually. In most years, at least 1,000 American delegates participate in conferences held in Geneva. About 200 American business firms are represented in Geneva; many use the city as a center for their European and worldwide operations.

Education

Another significant phase in Geneva’s history was its association with the French liberal movement in the 18th century. Before the French Revolution, Rousseau and Voltaire lived in and near Geneva for long periods. Through their contacts and writings, they propagated liberal ideas that had profound repercussions throughout the Western world and on Geneva’s own political development. In 1814, the city joined the Swiss Confederation, thus completing the territorial area of present-day Switzerland. During the past century, Geneva has progressed into a prosperous and flourishing center of commerce, tourism, and international politics.

Geneva has numerous private kindergartens with instruction in either English or French. Children of elementary and high school age can attend French-language public and denominational schools that compare with the best American institutions. Private international schools most frequently used by U.S. Government personnel include: the International School (with branches on both the Left and Right Bank); College du Léman (Right Bank) in nearby Versoix; and the Lycée des Nations (Right Bank). Students include children of international civil servants, international business staffs, and Genevans. The school year follows the U.S. pattern, beginning in September and ending in June.

Geneva’s general appearance belies its long and distinguished history.

These schools offer music lessons at extra cost and have active athletic

programs, including ski workshops and trips. Their libraries and laboratory facilities are adequate. Both undergraduate and master of arts programs are taught in English at Webster College. Webster also offers limited, but varied, courses in history, economics, and political science. Further information can be obtained from the Center for International Reform John Knox, at 27, Chemin des Crets de Pregny, 1218 Grand-Saconnex/Genève. Superior higher-education facilities for those fluent in French are available at the University of Geneva and the Institute des Hautes Études Internationales. Entering students must have a college degree and proficiency in French. Fluency is tested before final registration. A seminar in French language, history, and literature is offered to foreign students who attend as auditors, or who can obtain certificates if they have a working knowledge of French. About 150 American students are enrolled at the university, and 40 attend the institute each academic year. Good private French classes are available. Two of the better known courses are Migros and Cours Commerciaux de Genève. The U.N. offers courses in French and in many other languages.

Recreation Geneva is ideally located for convenient travel to other important cities and places of interest in Switzerland and its neighboring countries. Bern, the capital, is 98 miles away. Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city, is 168 miles away. Most places in Switzerland are within a few hours’ travel by train, or a day’s drive by car. One-day boat excursions to Lausanne, Montreux, and other Swiss cities along Lac Léman, or one-day auto trips to Évian, Annecy, and Chamonix in France are popular. Almost every important city in Western Europe is within a two-day drive. The Service des Loisirs sponsors 16 leisure centers in Geneva. These

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Cities of the World of f e r a c t i v i t i e s f r o m a l p i n i s m (mountain climbing) and spelunking (cave exploring) to cooking, languages, and sports. Private centers also are engaged in activities that range from guitar lessons to the study of tropical fish. Geneva boasts beautiful parks which often contain play equipment for children. Among the many children’s amusements are excellent circuses, a delightful puppet theater, and frequent small fairs with amusement rides. Organized activities for children include special skii n g t r i p s, c l a s s t r i p s t o o t h e r countries, ice skating, scouting (both American and Swiss), ballet and modern dance, musical instruction, judo, soccer, and Little League and Pony League baseball. Summer day camps and athletic clubs are also available. Spectator sports include ice hockey, soccer, boxing, squash, basketball, bicycle racing, horse racing, ski competition, rugby, and sailing. Geneva is a skier’s paradise, with good slopes just 40 minutes away. Cross-country skiing is popular and can be enjoyed in the city’s immediate environs. Other recreational opportunities include boating, tennis, squash, hiking, swimming, mountain climbing, fishing, cycling, horseback riding, bowling, ice skating, and basketball. Expensive public golf courses are located i n Divonne and Évian in France, and Geneva has a private club. Several private tennis clubs are available, but obtaining membership may be difficult. Of the excellent swimming pools around the city, two are open year round. The U.N. health club has a small, private beach on Lac Léman, where guests are often welcome. However, the lake is polluted in some places and is cold even for summer swimming.

Entertainment Most entertainment available in the U.S. also is available in Geneva. The city has many movie theaters, and American and British films often

are shown in their original versions. Children under 16 can attend only specially designated films. Local stage productions are in French, except for plays presented by the Geneva English Drama Society and the Players Theatre (international). Good entertainment is offered at the Grand Theatre, but tickets are sometimes difficult to obtain, as they are sold by subscription. Other excellent programs include concerts, symphonies, soloists in recital, opera, ballet, and jazz. For the art lover, fine exhibitions are shown at the many small g a l l e r i e s t h r o u g h o u t t h e c i t y. Geneva has good archives, including the Museum of Art and History, and museums with natural history and ethnographic collections. Fine restaurants abound. Most serve French or international cuisine; others feature native Swiss cooking or foreign specialties. Restaurant prices vary widely, but generally are high. Nearby France has many fine dining establishments in all price ranges. There are a number of expensive nightclubs in Geneva, mainly for after-dinner entertainment. Most collections in Geneva’s many libraries are in French. English books are available in city libraries, t h e l i b r a r y a t t h e Pa l a i s d e s Nations, and at the Amer ican Library in the American Community House. The latter has a large current collection of books in English, a small basic reference room, and a fine collection of children’s material. Books in English are expensive here. English-language paperbacks are available at most book shops and large department stores. Geneva’s annual Escalade is held over a weekend in mid- December. It commemorates the Duke of Savoy’s ill-fated attempt to scale the walls of Geneva on the night of December 11, 1602. The city celebrates the Duke’s failure with parades, torchlight marches, country markets, folk music, and brigades on horseback in period costume.

Americans are eligible for membership in several clubs, notably the Geneva English Speaking Club, the American Women’s Club, and the American International Club of Geneva. The U.N. Women’s Guild is another club that meets and works with women of all nationalities. Teenagers find less organized social life in Geneva for their age group than is often found elsewhere. Age limits on films are strictly enforced. Newcomers to the city will benefit from the informative Guide to the English Speaking Community in Geneva. It can be obtained by sending a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Philippe Reverdin, Boulevard des Promenades 21, 1227 Carouge, Geneva. Also, the American Women’s Club offers a course called Geneva for Beginners. Geneva affords many opportunities to meet other nationals, but meeting the Swiss is more difficult. Joining a special interest group is a good way of making acquaintances, although there does not seem to be a unifying aspect to life in Geneva. Varying international organizations, the natural reticence of the Swiss, and the constant flow of visitors make any strong sense of community spirit elusive.

Zurich Zurich (in German, Zürich), is located at the north end of Lake Zurich, and is surrounded by verdant hills, with residential areas extending along the lake on either side. To the south, the snow-capped Glarus Alps can be seen on clear days. The city is situated in the Swiss central plateau which stretches from the Alps to the German border. Zurich, with a metropolitan population of 1.2 million, is Switzerland’s largest city. It is the center of finance, commerce, and industry in the German-speaking section of Switzerland, and also the hub of the country’s printing and publishing industry. The population of the city proper is 338,000. 579

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The old part of town reflects a long historical past. Occupied as early as the Neolithic period, Zurich became a free imperial city in 1219, and joined the Swiss Federation in 1351. The city was a center of the Swiss Reformation, and the residence of Ulrich (Huldreich) Zwingli, the 16th-century religious reformer. A huge bronze statue of Zwingli is erected below the Grossmünster cathedral near the center of the city. The great Irish novelist, James Joyce (1882-1941), who wrote a major part of Ulysses in Zurich, is buried here. Zurich is the site of the famous Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (founded in 1860), and of the c o u n t r y ’s l a r g e s t u n i v e r s i t y (founded in 1833). There are also several excellent museums. About 7,500 Americans reside in Zurich’s U.S. consular district, which covers an area with a total population of 3.3 million.

Education Zurich has three private, nonprofit schools which are attended by English-speaking children. The Inter-Community School, based on British and American systems, but geared toward an international enrollment, has been in operation since 1960. Its new and modern facilities were opened in 1972 at Strubenacher 3, 8126 Zumikon (a Zurich suburb), and include a fine library and an auditorium/gymnasium, in addition to its 38 classrooms and science laboratories. Inter-Community School’s strong academic program is enhanced by extracurricular activities and special provisions for those with learni n g d i s a b i l i t i e s. T h e s t u d y o f German is required. The current enrollment is about 500. There are no boarding facilities. American International School of Zurich, a coeducational, secondary day school, provides university preparation for students from the international community. It is located in the suburb of Kilchberg, and is easily reached by car or pub580

lic transportation. The school building is a large converted villa, surrounded by open land overlooking the lake, and with a view of the Alps. The enrollment of 190 is predominantly American. Specific information is available by writing to the director at Nidelbadstrasse 49, 8802 Kilchberg, Switzerland. The International Primary School, also in Kilchberg, is a small school with classes from nursery level through grade seven. The student body numbers 150. German is a required subject at all levels. The school’s address is: Seestrasse 169, 8802 Kilchberg ZH, Switzerland.

Recreation and Entertainment Boating and sailing are available on Lake Zurich, and golf and other sports can be played in various spots throughout the metropolitan area. The city is centrally located for travel and within weekend driving distance of France, Italy, Germany, and Austria. Magnificent scenery and charming hotels add to the color. Zurich has an opera company, a symphony orchestra, a number of chamber groups, and a famous German theater, the Schauspielhaus. Local groups occasionally produce plays in English, and first-run movies, often in English, are shown. The numerous cabarets in the city and near the Quai Bridge are popular with those who have some understanding of the German language. Zurich has an abundance of hotels and restaurants, from deluxe to quite inexpensive. There also are nightclubs and jazz spots, attracting both local clientele and tourists. One of the city’s interesting festivals is the Sechseläuten, a spring event which features a parade by members of the various professional guilds in traditional dress. Shopping facilities are varied and of the highest quality. The city’s most elegant area of shops is concentrated in the area around the Bahnhofstrasse, which spreads south from the railway station (Haupt-

bahnhof). A tourist bureau is located in the rail terminal.

Basel Basel (in French, Bâle) is situated in northwest Switzerland astride the Rhine. It is a charming blend of old and new, and a city with a special atmosphere of friendliness that is rarely found to such a degree anywhere else in the country. The Rhine splits the two sections of the city—Greater Basel on the left bank, which is the commercial and academic section, and Lesser Basel on the right, the industrial area. Chemicals, silk making, and publishing are the major industries in this German-speaking, Protestant city of 166,000 (metropolitan area, 428,000). An older version of the city’s name, still seen occasionally, is Basle. Founded by the Romans as Basilia, Basel became a free imperial city in the 11th century. It was the site of the celebrated (Roman Catholic) Council of Basel (1431-49), which fell into heresy. The city joined the Swiss Confederation in 1501, and accepted the Reformation two d e c a d e s l a t e r. B a s e l i s o n e o f Europe’s oldest intellectual centers; its university was founded in 1459. Desiderius Erasmus, the Dutch philosopher, is numbered among its famous scholars, and he is buried in the city’s 11th-century Münster (cathedral). Among Basel’s museums is one of the finest in Europe, the Kunstmuseum, which houses the works of distinguished artists such as Hans Holbein, Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin, Henri Matisse, and others. One of its galleries has a notable collection of modern works. Basel has a magnificent zoo—some 4,000 animals and 600 different species live in a beautiful park in the center of the city. Basel is a tourist center also, with fine hotels and restaurants, good theater and music, excellent shopping (watches, in particular), and opportunities for travel in the sur-

Switzerland

Cities of the World

Courtesy of MaryBeth Mailloux

Playing chess on a street in Lausanne

rounding countryside, which is replete with woodlands, orchards, resorts, and quaint villages. Riverboat excursions are popular during summer. Switzerland enjoys a fine reputation in the field of education, and many excellent international schools are in operation in the various cantons. In Basel, the International School on the Schulstrasse provides an Anglo-American education for children from nursery level through the ninth grade. Languages are stressed from an early age, and German is a required subject for all students.

Lausanne Lausanne, on the northern shore of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva), has been the capital of Vaud Canton since 1803. Rising on steep hills from the lakeshore, it is a noted resort and the business center of western Switzerland. Precision instruments and

metalworking, and the production of beer and fine chocolate are among the local industries. Though it bills itself as “Switzerland’s city of the future,” Lausanne is an old city. Originally a Celtic settlement called Lausonium, the area has been inhabited since at least the fourth century. Modern growth actually began in 1906, when the Simplon Tunnel opened, putting Lausanne on the critical Paris-toMilan route. The resident population is about 115,000, a number swelled during the long tourist season. Lausanne has a beautiful, restored Gothic cathedral, the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame. It was consecrated by Pope Gregory X in 1275. The Swiss regard the cathedral’s rose window as a national treasure. A late-17thcentury city hall and castle are also noteworthy. Lausanne is the headquarters of the International Olympic Committee (IOC), and site of the Federal Palace of Justice.

At the village of Ouchy, Lausanne’s port, elegant old hotels and homes ov erlook the lake, where boat excursions are offered throughout the summer months. Nearby Montreux is the home of a renowned international jazz festival. Several prominent Europeans have made this region their home; Rousseau, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Charles Dickens, and Edward Gibbon are a few. Ouchy was the temporary residence of Lord Byron and Shelley in 1816. Lausanne’s tourist office is located at 60 avenue d’Ouchy, two blocks from Lake Geneva.

Education Brillantmont International School, a coeducational school (boarding, for girls) for grades nine through 12, was established in 1882. It offers American, British, and International Baccalaureate certification, and its U.S. accreditation is by the 581

Switzerland New England Association of Schools and Colleges. Brillantmont’s total enrollment of 160 is one-quarter American; four members of the teaching staff of 32 also are American. Although English is the primary language of instruction, French, Spanish, German, and Italian are also taught. Special programs include English as a second language and instruction for those students who have dyslexia. There are a variety of extracurricular activities and sports offered. Brillantmont is located five minutes from the center of Lausanne on a four-acre campus that features 14 buildings, science and language laboratories, and double or triple boarding rooms. Brillantmont’s address is: Avenue Secretan 16, 1005 Lausanne, Switzerland. Institut Chateau Mont-Choisi, founded in 1885, is a girls’ boarding school for grades eight through 12. The school uses a U.S. curriculum with classes in English and French, and offers German, Spanish, and Italian as foreign languages. Extracurricular activities include gymnastics, dance, and sports such as riding and swimming. Institut Chateau’s current enrollment in the American section is 41; 10 are American. The teaching staff consists of 20 full-time and 10 parttime instructors, four of whom are American. All students are boarders and participate in a planned, sevenday program. Institut Chateau is located less than two miles from the center of Lausanne in a suburban area. The three-acre campus includes six buildings, 16 classrooms, science laboratory, tennis court, swimming pool, and a 2,000-volume library. The school’s address is: Boulevard de la Forêt/Chemin des Ramiers 16, 1009 Pully/Lausanne, Switzerland. The Commonwealth-Amer ican School was founded in 1962 and offers instruction for pre-kindergarten through eighth grade. Enroll582

Cities of the World ment numbers 180; 32 are American. The school is located in a suburb of Lausanne and the facilities include two buildings, 13 classrooms, and science and computer labs. The library holds 6,500 volumes. For more information contact the director at 73 Avenue C.F. Ramuz, 1009 Pully, Switzerland. Lausanne rivals Geneva as the intellectual and cultural center of French Switzerland. Its university, founded in 1891, originated as a theological academy in 1537. It is possible to enroll in university classes in Lausanne if French fluency has been accomplished; only English literature classes are conducted in English.

Winterthur Winterthur is an important cultural and industrial center, about 10 miles northeast of Zurich. Switzerland’s main technological school, Technikum, is located here, as are a renowned art gallery (Reinhart Gallery) and symphony orchestra. Winterthur is also home to a music festival. The city dates to the late 10th century, when it was founded by the counts of Kyburg. It passed to the Hapsburgs in 1264, became an imperial city in 1415, reverted to the Hapsburgs in 1442, and became part of Zurich in 1467.

residents, this is the capital of Aargau Canton, and a major bell production center. Other manufactured goods include textiles and scientific instruments. Aarau dates to the 11th century. It recognizes its heritage with the medieval castle, a fine library containing much on the nation’s history, and several museums. Aarau has been part of the Swiss Confederation since 1805. The small village of AROSA lies deep in the eastern Alps, 75 miles southwest of Zurich. The spectacular mountain scenery provides the setting and the livelihood for its people, as this is a main tourist destination and health resort. Known for its over 40 wanderwegs, or walking paths, Arosa is also popular in winter for skiing. The lower lake, with public swimming, the main street’s shopping area, and the outskirts (curiously called Inner Arosa) with their peaceful meadows, are all considered picturesque. The village is located at the end of roads and railways. It so prides itself in its quiet atmosphere that driving has been banned during the night. Nearby Hornli Mountain lures climbers, as do other smaller peaks in this mile-high region. Area hotels provide somewhat costly accommodations; more popular are chalet, r o o m , an d a p a r t me n t r e n t a ls. Arosa’s population is about 2,400.

OTHER CITIES

BIEL (in French, Bienne), 17 miles northwest of Bern on Lake Biel, is Switzerland’s only officially bilingual city. The majority of its 49,000 people speak German, while onethird use French; Biel is located on the country’s language border. It has been inhabited since the Roman era, with a charter from 1275. Its allegiance shifted from Basel to Bern until it joined Bern Canton in 1815. Still standing from medieval times are the Church of St. Benedict, noted for its stained glass, and the town hall, built in 1534. Iron Age artifacts can be viewed at the Museum Schwab. Biel’s industry is based on machinery and watchmaking.

The manufacturing city of Aarau lies on the Aarau River, 23 miles west of Zurich. With about 16,000

Probably Switzerland’s oldest town, CHUR is the capital of Graubünden Canton. Located in eastern Switzer-

Winterthur is a major railroad junction and base for the leading Sultzer Brothers engineering company. Diesel engines, locomotives, cotton textiles, and clothes are manufactured here. Noteworthy buildings in the city include the Town Church of St. Laurenz (1264-1515), the town hall (1781-83), and the relatively modern Assembly Hall (1865-69). Winterthur’s estimated population is about 88,000. It is surrounded by garden suburbs.

Switzerland

Cities of the World land about 15 miles from the Austrian border, Chur is surrounded by mountains. A guardian of Alpine routes since 15 B.C., the city was first mentioned as an episcopal see in 600. It became an imperial city in the 15th century and the capital of the canton in 1820. Medieval relics and Roman towers remain in central Chur. The city offers direct connections to the major ski resorts in the area. A train excursion passes through the picturesque village of Filisur, crossing a high bridge over Landwasser River. Greifenstein Castle and La Chanzla, a huge rock with a 33-foot painting of the devil, are located near Filisur. Chur’s current population is about 33,000. FRIBOURG (in German, Freiburg), the nucleus of Swiss Catholicism, is situated 18 miles southwest of Bern on the Saane River. The seat of a bishopric and a Catholic university, this city houses hundreds of art works in its many churches, chapels, and monasteries. Fribourg’s oldest section, called the Bourg, towers over the riverside; Gothic houses combine with remnants of towers and gateways to lend a medieval air to the surroundings. St. Nicholas Cathedral’s famous orga n, th e Fran ci sca n Church, the former Augustinian Church of St. Maurice, as well as several convents, are among the city’s treasures. Fribourg was founded in 1157 by Berthold IV, duke of Zähringen, and was accepted into full membership in the Swiss Confederation in 1481. Reconstitution of the Confederation by Napoleon in 1803 made Fribourg the capital of a canton of the same name. Heavily dependent on industry, Fribourg has a foundry, electrical equipment factories, breweries, and chocolate plants. The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire houses various art pieces. This city of 33,000 is situated on important railway lines and is also a bus center. The typically Swiss town of GSTAAD, surrounded by glaciers, lakes, forests, and mountains, is situated in the Saane Valley, 33 miles east of Lausanne and 32 miles south of Bern. One of Switzerland’s pre-

mier winter resorts, Gstaad offers skiing in both winter and summer. There are opportunities here for other sports activities, including ice skating, curling, and horseback riding; there is also an indoor swimming pool. Gstaad, at an altitude of nearly 3,500 feet, has a population of close to 2,500. LOCARNO is a small city of 15,000 in Ticino Canton. The Germans call it Luggarus, but most of the residents are Italian-speaking, and the German name is seldom heard. Locarno, tucked into the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, has a warm climate which has made it famous as a winter and health resort. The town’s administrative buildings once were the castles of the dukes of Milan, who took possession of the area in 1342. Locarno has been part of the Swiss Confederation since early in the 16th century. LUCERNE (in German, Luzern), is central Switzerland’s beautiful “old world” city and summer resort. It lies on the northwest end of Lake Lucerne, the Vierwaldstättersee (Lake of the Four Forest Cantons). The fine hotels of Lucerne are filled to capacity throughout the summer season, as tourists flock from all parts of Europe to enjoy the scenery, the historic places, and the superb, although expensive, shopping. Among Lucerne’s main attractions are its famous covered bridges, the 14th-century Kapellbrücke, and the 15th-century Mühlenbrücke; the Glacier Gardens, with the stone Lion of Lucerne; the eighth-century Hofkirche; the exquisite Jesuit church; and the interesting museums. Lucerne, which joined the Swiss Confederation in 1332, was a stronghold of Catholicism during the Reformation. Its current population is 58,000. LUGANO is situated in southern Switzerland in Ticino Canton. A commercial center in the Middle Ages, it was taken in 1512 from the duke of Milan by the Swiss Confederation. Italian in character, and in spoken tongue, it has become a popular resort on Lake Lugano, between Switzerland and Italy, and

has been called the “Rio de Janeiro of the old continent.” It is the site of the lovely Roman Catholic cathedral of San Lorenzo, and a 15th-century monastery, Santa Maria degli Angeli. Lugano’s population is approximately 26,000. The well-known resort of MONTREUX is located in western Switzerland on the east end of Lake Geneva, 15 miles southeast of Lausanne. A lively, cosmopolitan city of 22,000, Montreux offers a temperate climate. As an artistic and intellectual center, the city has an extensive program of plays, concerts, and balls, climaxed in September by an internationally acclaimed music festival. Excursions are possible to nearby Glion, a winter sports center and resort, and to the winter resort of Caux. St. George’s School, a girls’ boarding facility for grades five through 13, is located in the resort village of Clarens. Founded in 1927, it offers an American and British education; current enrollment is close to 120. St. George’s mailing address is: 1815 Clarens, Switzerland. Also near Montreux, in Chesieres, is Aiglon College, a coeducational boarding school for grades six through 13. Founded in 1949, and with a current enrollment of 250, the school provides a British curriculum. Aiglon College’s address is: 1885 Chesieres, Switzerland. NEUCHÂTEL is a city of 40,000 residents in western Switzerland, about 25 miles west of Bern. It is situated in the Jura Mountains, on the shore of Lake Neuchâtel, the largest lake entirely within Swiss boundaries. A university was established here in 1272, and today the city is the administrative center of the canton of Neuchâtel as well as a commercial center (watches, jewelry, appliances), set amid forests and vineyards, and surrounded by interesting little villages. Archaeologists have found remains of ancient Celtic lake dwellings here. SAINT GALL (Sankt Gallen, in German) is located 39 miles east of Zurich in northwest Switzerland. This city of 70,000 developed in 621 583

Switzerland around a Benedictine monastery founded by the Irish monk Gallus. Known for its textile trade and the headquarters of the Swiss embroidery trade, Saint Gall is a leading industrial center that also produces glass and metal goods. Situated between Lake Constance and the Säntis mountain range, Saint Gall is a natural gateway to Austria and Germany as well as a garden city with a long history as a cultural center. The city’s greatest treasures are its many historic buildings, including the baroque cathedral and the churches of St. Laurenz and St. Ma n gen . New s tr u ct ur es h ere include the new market district, the municipal theater, and the city hall. There are numerous parks, and the library contains many notable manuscripts. Festivals and trade fairs are held annually in Saint Gall from spring through fall. The Swiss Agricultural and Dairy Fair draws over 400,000 visitors to the city every year. SCHAFFHAUSEN is the capital of Schaffhausen Canton, 23 miles north of Zurich in the far north of Switzerland. The Rhine River flows by this city of 33,000, providing critical hydroelectric power for economic development. Nearby Schaffhausen Falls, on the Rhine, cascade from a height of 65 feet, drawing tourists from all over Europe. The Protestant Münster, or cathedral, is thought to have inspired the great German poet Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805) to write his “Das Lied von der Glocke” (“The Song of the Bell”). The people of Schaffhausen today are predominantly German-speaking. Protestants, employed in manufacturing or in local hydroelectric plants. The area was first known as Villa Scafhusun in 1045, but development actually began after Count Eberhard III established the Benedictine Monastery of All Saints here a few years later. Although Schaffhausen had been nominally a free imperial city since the early 11th century, it endured domination by the Hapsburgs from about 1330 until it purchased its freedom 85 years later. In 1501, the Swiss Confederation admitted Schaffhausen 584

Cities of the World as a full member. Many centuriesold buildings remain here. The huge Munot Fort (1564-85), the parish church, two town halls, and the H a u s z u m R i t t e r — K n i g h t ’s House—are foremost among landmarks. The Knight’s House, erected in 1485, is decorated with frescoes by Tobias Stimmer. ST. MORITZ is the noted winter resort and playground of international society. It is situated in the Canton of the Grisons in eastern Switzerland, at an altitude of 6,000 feet. Centuries before it gained fame as a fashionable resort, it was renowned for its thermal baths. St. Moritz has a population of nearly 6,000. THUN (in French, Thoune) is a city of about 40,000 people on the Aare River, 15 miles southeast of Bern in the central region. This is the hub of the Bernese Oberland, producing machinery, cheese, pottery, and watches. Tourism also plays an important economic role in Thun. T he 1 2t h - c e n t u r y S ch e rz li g e n Church, the town hall, and a medieval castle number among tourist favorites. The Zähringen-Kyburg castle here contains a tower and living area, and is now a museum. Thun, founded in the 10th century, was part of the Burgundy kingdom until 1190, when it passed to various dukes and counts, and finally to Bern in 1384. ZUG, population 23,000, is the capital city of one of the smaller Swiss cantons and is located 18 miles south of Zurich. Zug is a city of contrasts. Its policy of low taxations has made it an attractive place of business for international financiers and for such companies as Nutrasweet and Lego. The modern buildings and new shopping mall are located near the train station. Five minutes from this corporate area is the old town, with its Postplatz, timber-framed houses, octagonal stone fountain, Zytturm (Time Tower), and late-Gothic church, St. Oswa ld’s. Lake Zug is located nearby and provides opportunity for water sports and hiking. The res-

taurants in the area serve fish caught fresh from the lake.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Switzerland covers an area of 15,944 s quar e miles, which is approximately twice the size of New Jersey. A quarter of the country consists of glaciers, mountains, and lakes; another quarter is covered by forests. Because of the varied topography (from an altitude of 633 feet above sea level in the Ticino canton to 15,203 feet—the Monte Rosa peak—in the Alps), climate and vegetation vary from Mediterranean to arctic. Bern does not have great extremes of hot or cold weather. Rain is common in summer as well as winter, with snowfalls in Bern occurring with more regularity in recent years. Humidity is high during spring and fall. Winter brings some warm spells, and all-day fog and cloudy weather are common. Often a 30-minute drive will get you out of the clouds and into sunshine. The Föhn, a dry south wind that passes over the Alps changing the air pressure, has an enervating and otherwise unpleasant effect on some people. Sinus problems are often aggravated by the dampness. The average high temperature in July is 30°C (88°F), and the average low for that month is 6.1°C (45°F). In February, the thermometer reaches 5.4°C (42°F) and dips to about -10°C (12°F).

Population Switzerland’s population is approximately 7.2 million (December 2000 estimate). More than three-fourths of the people live in the central plain, which stretches between the Alps and the Jura Mountains from Geneva to the Rhine. Switzerland has three official languages: German, French, and Italian. Romansch, based on Latin, is

Switzerland

Cities of the World principally spoken by a small portion of the people in the Graubunden canton. The Swiss version of German is spoken by about 70% of the population. Spoken Swiss German differs substantially the German spoken in Germany and Austria. It frequently varies from canton to canton, even from town to town. High German is the written language and is also used in most TV and radio shows, on the stage, and in university lectures. French is the first language in the cantons of Fribourg, Jura, Vaud, Valais, Neuchatel, and Geneva. Italian is the first language of the Ticino canton and in some areas of the Graubunden canton. English is a common foreign language for most educated Swiss. The percentage of Protestants to Catholics among the Swiss is about equal. Confessional differences run across linguistic lines—there are both German- and French-speaking cantons that are predominately Protestant or Catholic. The Italianspeaking Ticino canton is Catholic. Switzerland’s cantons differ in history, customs, and culture, as well as in size and natural setting. As a national group, the Swiss are generally serious-minded, forthright, and conscientious. Living patterns are s i m i l a r t o t h o s e i n t h e U. S. , although the Swiss are more formal and conservative than Americans. Their practicality is reflected in their architecture, furnishings, clothing, and food.

Public Institutions Switzerland has a federal government structure with a bicameral legislature. Members of the National Council, the lower house, are directly elected in districts apportioned by population. Voting is by a complex proportional representation system. The upper house, the Council of States, is composed of 46 members, 2 members from each canton (three are divided into “halfcantons” with 1 member each), who are elected by methods individually determined by the cantons. Executive power rests in the seven-mem-

ber Federal Council, a unique Swiss political institution. Members of the Council are elected individually by both houses of the legislature for 4year terms, though in practice Councilors are reelected as long as they wish to serve. The President of the Federal Council is also the President of the Swiss Confederation. The office is filled by the Council members in rotation for 1-year terms. Each Federal Councilor heads one of the seven executive departments.

360 aircraft in its inventory. A December 2001 referendum allowed citizens to vote on whether or not to decrease spending and manpower for the army (which is one of the largest in Europe), considering that the country has not been involved in battle since the 1798 invasion of Napoleon and has maintained neutral status since 1515. An overwhelming majority voted to maintain the force as a key factor in protection of the nation’s neutralilty.

The four major political parties are the Free Democratic Party, the Social Democratic Party, the Christian Democratic Party, and the Swiss People’s Party. There are over a dozen other significant national or regional parties.

Despite its prized neutrality status, Switzerland voted in March 2002 to accept UN membership. Membership in the European Union, however, has been rejected by Swiss voters.

Switzerland’s cantons historically precede the Confederation, which was established when three cantons joined together against the Hapsburgs in 1291. Within the Federal system, each canton has its own constitution and active political life. Cantonal governments have primary responsibility for law and order, health and sanitation, education, and public works and are almost exclusively responsible for the implementation of Federal law. T h e Fe d e r a l e x e c u t i v e b r a n c h ensures internal and external security, upholds the cantonal constitutions, and maintains diplomatic relations with foreign nations. Under the Swiss judicial system, a single national code exists for civil, commercial, and criminal law. The only Federal court is the Federal Tribunal, which has final appellate jurisdiction. All courts of first instance, and all prosecutors, are cantonal. Military service is compulsory for physically able male adults and includes basic training and decreasing mandatory annual service until age 42 (longer for officers). Switzerland can rapidly mobilize approximately 400,000 soldiers. After delivery of the 34 recently purchased F/A-18 fighter aircraft, Switzerland will have approximately

Geneva is the seat of many international organizations, including the European Office of the U.N., several of its specialized agencies, and nongovernmental organizations such as the International Red Cross. Bern serves as host city to the Universal Postal Union.

Arts, Science, and Education Switzerland is well endowed with cultural institutions. The opera and theater play an important part in the life of the urban elite. In Bern, most stage performances are in German, some in Swiss dialect, and some in French. Operas are usually in the original language. English-language amateur and professional stage productions are to be found occasionally in the larger cities. Music education is important and standards are high. Many musical groups perform in Switzerland, and the Geneva- based Orchestre de la Suisse Romande is world famous. Many cities, including Bern, have orchestras. Bern also has a Conservatory of Music with frequent concerts by students, which are open to the public. Switzerland has a high literacy rate. Two Federal technical insti585

Switzerland

Cities of the World

Courtesy of Susan Rock

Nydegg Bridge over the Aare River in Berne

tutes and eight cantonal universities produce exceptionally qualified professionals in all fields. A highly developed system of apprenticeship training develops an unusually qualified labor force of technicians and craftsmen.

Commerce and Industry The Swiss economy is a highly developed free enterprise system, heavily export-oriented, and characterized by a skilled labor force. About 40% of the Gross National Product is earned abroad, of which 80% is from the sale of export products. Principal industries include machinery and metal working, chemical and pharmaceutical products, watches, and textiles. Other important business activities include tourism, international banking, and insurance. 586

The worldwide economic recession of the early 1990s has pushed Switzerland’s traditionally insignificant unemployment rates up, but they remain well below average West European levels. About 20% of the Swiss labor force is made up of foreign workers. There are well-developed trade union organizations in most industries and trades, but strikes are very rare due to a unique peace agreement concluded decades ago between labor and management. Swiss attitudes toward property ownership and investment are stricter than those in the U.S. Real estate purchase by a nonresident or a company not incorporated in Switzerland is subject to individual review by cantonal authorities and is permitted in only certain specified—usually recreational—areas. Although a member of the European Free Trade Association

(EFTA), Switzerland trades mostly with the European Union (its largest single trading partner is the Fe d e r a l R e p u b l i c o f G e r m a n y (FRG)). It has had a free trade agreement in industrial products with the European Union (EU) since l973. In 1992 Switzerland voted against membership in the European Economic Area (EEA). Membership in the EEA or EU is unlikely for the foreseeable future because of requirements that would demand changes in Switzerland’s constitutional order, their procedures for direct democracy, and their autonomy in international actions.

Transportation Local The Swiss Federal Railway system is entirely electric and connects the main cities and towns. Trains are clean and run on schedule; fares are reasonable, with special round-trip

Switzerland

Cities of the World and holiday rates. It is possible to buy a yearlong pass on the entire Swiss railroad network including the public transportation systems of all major cities. Porters are infrequent, charge a minimum of two Swiss francs and expect a small tip for handling baggage. Self-service luggage carts are available at all major train stations as well as airports.

furt, London, Munich, Paris, and Vienna. A direct train between Bern and the Kloten (Zurich) International Airport takes 1-1/2 hours; Bern-Geneva by rail is about 1-2/3 hours. Airport railroad stations are integrated into both Zurich and Geneva air terminals; luggage carts may be taken by escalator to trainside or airline check-in.

Bern has excellent train and highway connections with all points in Europe.

Communications

Most points not accessible by train can be reached by passenger buses operated by the postal system. There are over 100 mountain funiculars and aerial tramways in Switzerland, and regular steamer services operate on major lakes in spring and summer.

Telecommunications systems are excellent. Direct dialing is possible to all parts of Switzerland, Western Europe, the U.S., and Canada. Major U.S. phone companies’ cards are also available and offer U.S. rates. Callback services are available and competitive.

Local transportation systems— trams, buses, trolley buses, and taxis—are convenient and efficient. Taxi fares are comparable to those i n Wa s h i n g t o n ; al l t a x i s h av e meters, and drivers expect a 10– 15% tip. Fire engines are red, police cars white or black, ambulances white with blue lights, and official postal vehicles gold and black. Swiss roads are good though often narrow and winding. A network of freeways exists, with additions and e xp a n si o n s i n p r o gres s. Man y mountain passes are closed by snow in winter, but road tunnels and railway car ferries operate through the St. Gotthard and Lotschberg passes. Road directional signs are excellent and all traffic moves on the right. An annual SwF 40 autobahn sticker is required.

Regional Geneva and Zurich are major European flight centers. Daily flights to the U.S. are available from both cities on American carriers. Bern has a small airport in the suburb of Belp with service in Switzerland to Basel and Lugano and in Europe to Amsterdam, Brussels, Elba, Frank-

Telephone and Telegraph

Radio and TV Swiss radio broadcasts in the three principal Swiss languages with a few programs in Romansch. Programming is of good quality with more talk programs than in the U.S. Broadcasts from other European countries—such as AFN Stuttgart, VO A , R a di o L u x e m b o u r g, a n d BBC—are available through cable radio in many areas. Cable television is available with transmissions from two British channels as well as from Germany, France, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, and CNN. The modest monthly charges are sometimes included in leases for apartments or houses. Satellite programming is available with the proper equipment. As in most of Europe, radio and TV in Switzerland are run by a public corporation. Children’s programs are broadcast every day and special programs are sometimes relayed from the U.S. by satellite. News and sports coverage on both radio and TV are good.

Newspapers and Magazines Newspapers are available in the three national languages. There are over 100 dailies and periodicals in

Switzerland. They represent differing political viewpoints and come from various areas of the country. Several weekly and monthly Swiss magazines cover news, women’s fashion, television programs, and various hobbies. French, German, and Italian periodicals are also available at local newsstands. The International Herald Tribune, USA Today, Wall Street Journal, and international editions of Time, Life, and Newsweek are available at local newsstands or by subscription. Prices are much higher than in the U.S. or the U.K. Several bookstores have English-language departments.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Swiss medical facilities are excellent. Dental work is expensive, so travelers may want to have major dental work done before arriving in Switzerland.

Community Health Swiss public services are similar to those in other highly developed countries. The Swiss place a strong emphasis on environmental responsibility and recycling. In most jurisdictions, a fee is charged by volume for garbage collection. Trash is placed in bags purchased in grocery or hardware stores and must carry a surcharge sticker, also available in grocery and hardware stores. Paper and metal are collected periodically, with the schedule distributed in the newspaper at the beginning of the new year. Bins for the recycling of glass bottles, plastics, and aluminum are located at stores and other convenient locations. The manufacture and sale of adulterated food and beverages are prohibited. Official cantonal inspectors enforce controls. They inspect water, milk, and meat on a regular basis, as well as other foods and containers on a random basis. Sterilization of food containers is good. 587

Switzerland Preventive Measures Switzerland has no endemic contagious diseases. Special measures to treat water or food are not necessary, and no special medical or therapeutical treatment needs be taken before arrival.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Jan. 2 . . . . . . . . . . St. Berchtold’s Day Jan. 6. . . . . . . . . . . Epiphany Feb. 2 . . . . . . . . . . Candlemas Feb. 14 . . . . . . . . . St. Valentine’s Day Feb. . . . . . . . . . . . . Mardi Gras* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Mar. 17 . . . . . . . . . St. Patrick’s Day Mar. 19 . . . . . . . . . St. Joseph’s Day Apr. 1 . . . . . . . . . . April Fool’s Day May/June . . . . . . . Ascension Day* May/June . . . . . . . Pentecost* May/June . . . . . . . Whitmonday* Aug. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Confederation Day Sept. 5. . . . . . . . . . Jeune Genevois (Geneva) Oct. 25 . . . . . . . . . UN Day Oct. 31 . . . . . . . . . Halloween Nov. 1 . . . . . . . . . . All Saint’s Day Nov. 2. . . . . . . . . . . All Soul’s Day Nov. 5 . . . . . . . . . . Guy Fawkes Day Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . Armistice Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 8 . . . . . . . . . . Immaculate Conception Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Stephanstag (St. Stephen’s Day) Dec. 31 . . . . . . . . . Restoration Day (Geneva) *variable

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties If traveling to Switzerland by car, one must have international thirdparty liability insurance and the green insurance card (Carte Internationale d’Assurance). Without 588

Cities of the World this card, one must buy insurance at each European border crossing. A passport is required for travel to Switzerland. A visa is not required for U.S. citizens for stays of up to 90 days in either country. For more information on entry requirements for both countries, travelers may contact the Embassy of Switzerland at 2900 Cathedral Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone (202) 745-7900, or the nearest Swiss Consulate General in Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, or San Francisco. Additional information for both countries is a v a i l a b l e a t h t t p : / / w w w. s w i s semb.org. U.S. citizens may register and obtain updated information on travel and security within Switzerland at the locations below: The U.S. Embassy in Bern is located at Jubilaeumstrasse 93, Telephone (41)(31) 357-7011, FAX (41)(31) 3577280. The 24 hours emergency telephone number is (41)(31) 357-7218. The U.S. Embassy website at http:// www.us-embassy.ch answers many questions of interest to Americans visiting and residing in Switzerland. The U.S. Consular Agency in Zurich is located at the American Center of Zurich, Dufourstrasse 101, 8008 Zurich, telephone (41)(1) 422-2566, FAX (41) (1) 383-9814. T h e U. S. C o n s u l a r A g e n c y i n Geneva is located at the American Center Geneva, 7 Rue Versonnex, 1207 Geneva, telephone (41)(22) 840-5160, fax (41)(22) 840-5162. U.S. Consular Agencies offer limited consular services to U.S. citizens.

Pets Dogs and cats may be brought to Switzerland with a veterinary certificate of good health and rabies vaccination. The vaccination must be given no less than 30 days and no more than 1 year prior to date of entry.

Currency, Banking and Weights and Measures One does not need to bring Swiss money. Airports and railway stations all have exchange offices and all hotels will change American money and travelers checks. Money, travelers checks, and other money instruments may be imported and exported freely. The Swiss franc (ChF), divided into 100 rappen or centimes, is the basic unit of currency. The abbreviated notation ChF precedes the amount. The Swiss National Bank issues the currency, supervises its circulation, and handles discount and clearing operations for commercial banks. No currency restrictions exist in Switzerland. Exchange is US$1=ChF1.57 (May 2002). U.S. dollars and travelers checks may be imported and exported freely, and international currencies can be bought or sold at free market rates in local banks. All Swiss banks accept U.S. Treasury checks, travelers checks, cashier checks on U.S. banks, and dollars.

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general guide to material currently available on Switzerland. General All About Switzerland. Swiss National Tourist Office. Christensen, Benedicte V. Switzerland’s Role As an International Financial Center. Washington, DC: International Monetary Fund, 1986. Dicks, Diane, ed. Ticking Along Too, Stories About Switzerland, Bergli Books Ltd.: 1990. Fodor’s Switzerland. New York: David McKay, latest edition. Hilowitz, Janet E., ed. Switzerland in Perspective. Westport, CT:

Switzerland

Cities of the World Greenwood Publishing Group, 1991. Kane, Robert S., Switzerland at its Best, Passport Books: 1989.

Milivojevic, Marko & Pierre Maurer, eds. Swiss Neutrality and Security, Armed Forces, National Defense and Foreign Policy, Berg Publishers: 1990.

Off the Beaten Track: Switzerland, Out of the Way Places to Tour and Explore. New York: HarperCollins, 1990.

Sauter, Marc R. Switzerland from Earliest Times to the Roman Conquest. Thames & Hudson Ltd.: 1976.

Switzerland Country Guide. New York: Berlitz, latest edition.

Treichler, Hans Peter. L’Aventure Suisse, Migros Press.

Switzerland—A Phaidon Cultural Guide, with over 600 color illustrations and 34 pages of maps. Prentice-Hall, Inc.: 1985.

Vuilleumier, Marc. Immigrants and Refugees in Switzerland. Pro Helvetia Arts Council of Switzerland: 1987.

Hughes, Christopher. Baedecker. Guide to Switzerland: 1981.

The following listed “Pro Helvetia” brochures may be obtained from the Swiss Embassy in Washington, D.C.:

McPhee, John. Place de La Concorde Suisse, Farrar Straus Giroux, New York: l983.

Alfred Wyler: Dialect and High German in German-Speaking Switzerland.

History, Politics, Cultural History

Bernhard Wenger: The Four Literatures of Switzerland. Craig, Gordon, A. The Triumph of Liberali sm . New York: M acMillan, 1989 Dieter Fahrni: An Outline History of Switzerland. From the Origins to the Present Day. Dominique Rosset: Music in Switzerland. Jean-Pierre Pastori: Dance and Ballet in Switzerland. Marc Vuilleumier: Immigrants and Refugees in Switzerland. An Outline History. Oswald Sigg: Switzerland’s Political Institutions. Piere Dominice, Matthias Finger: Adult Education in Switzerland.

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MAP PAGE

Ankara, Turkey

TURKEY Republic of Turkey

Major Cities: Ankara, Istanbul, Adana, Izmir Other Cities: Antalya, Bursa, Eskiöehir, Gaziantep, Kayseri, Kirikkale, Konya, Maraö, Mersin, Samsun

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated June 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION No other nation spans two continents, incorporating such topographical diversity, so many strata of archeological wonders, and as much disparate, natural beauty as TURKEY. The northern Black Sea shores are cool and green, interspersed with lush rain forests and alpine mountains, while the hot, southern coasts are lined with magnificent rocky mountains reaching down to beaches varying from pebbled to smooth, white sand. The flat Anatolian plateau is interrupted here and there by lakes and hills or low mountains. The eastern portion of the country has alkaline volcanic lakes and is characterized by desertlike sparseness and impressive, stark mountains.

Amidst this natural setting are nestled countless artifacts, proof of the extraordinary role this land has played throughout history—from biblical Mount Ararat, a pilgrimage site for climbers in search of Noah’s Ark, to the incomparable vitality and bustle of Istanbul. To come upon the natural “fairy chimneys” of Cappadocia, whose distinctive stone hills were carved out to create dwellings, churches and monasteries, some still ornate with age-old frescoes, or to crawl through the un der gr ound t roglody te cities nearby, is to imagine a civilization like none other. To see the exquisite riches of the ancient Hittite civilizations and the imposing amphitheaters of old is, simply, to delight in the history of man. To live in Turkey is not just to be tempted by the infinite sites to explore or seas to sail. It is to indulge in the delectable cuisine, to shop, bargaining for carpets, kilims, and copperware and, always, to be challenged and surprised. Turks are among the world’s most gracious, hospitable people (except when driving). Yet, Turkey has a schizophrenic society where old and new, west and east, and numerous ethnicities and religious strains struggle to live harmoniously—a struggle that has become second nature to a Turk. Infinite proverbs and polite phrases, known to all Turks, serve

as a universal tonic when times are bad and shared salutations in happy moments. They indicate a bond between the common good and the will to develop and persevere as a nation despite all the difficulties and divisions the country confronts. Turkey’s importance has not diminished with the end of the Cold War. As successor to the vast and influential Ottoman Empire, the modern republic of Turkey lies in a position strategic to the interests of many nat i ons, includi n g the Unit ed States, whose futures depend to some greater or lesser extent on Turkey’s future. Turkey borders the Middle East, the newly independent states of the Caucasus and Central Asia, eastern Europe and the Mediterranean; its international influence is substantial. Domestically, Turkey struggles with chronically high inflation, an overlarge public sector and the need to support and capture a large unofficial economy; the country endeavors to balance the aspirations of its citizens of Kurdish descent and its conflict with the separatist terrorists of the Kurdistan Worker’s Party (PKK), and to contend with difficult neighbors on all sides. Turkey’s politics and economy are complicated and intriguing. Ataturk, the founder and father of modern Turkey, coined the still popular saying, “Ne mutlu Turkum diy591

Turkey ene”—“Happy is he who says I am a Turk.” A foreigner will never fully comprehend what it means to be a Turk, nor will he ever feel he has learned all this country has to offer. It is a fascinating place with endless challenges for the outsider. The first thing a newcomer to Turkey is likely to hear is “Hos Geldiniz”— ”Welcome.” Most find it a pleasure to respond sincerely with the traditional, “Hos Bulduk”—”Pleased to be here.”

MAJOR CITIES Ankara Turkey’s capital, Ankara, is located in the western portion of the Anatolian plateau at an altitude of 3,000 feet. It has a population of over 2.9 million and is situated at the bottom and up the sides of a deep bowl formed by bare, low mountains. The climate is pleasant; its rare extremes of hot and cold are moderated by the year-round dryness of the air and, in summer, by a mild breeze. Smog, though considerably improved in recent years with increased use of natural gas rather than lignite coal, gives the city a drab appearance for much of the winter. Ankara was a provincial town when Ataturk established the capital along with the new Republic there in 1923. The city is modern, with wide boulevards intersecting at large circles often congested with bustling traffic. The architecture of the many government office buildings is generally a stark, concrete block style. Pleasant, tree-shaded streets with attractive gardens are disappearing rapidly as the city struggles to keep up with its influx of population. Single-family homes are rare today, having been replaced by a steadily increasing number of large apartment buildings. Nevertheless, modern Ankara has some pleasant parks, many with playground equipment for children. (Sidewalks, where present, are often uneven and discontinuous, 592

Cities of the World making the use of strollers less convenient than backpacks for carrying babies.) Compared to other cities in Turkey, Ankara is quite livable; where it lacks charm, it gains convenience. Perhaps its most redeeming features are the steep hills upon which Ankara is built, providing for countless, panoramic views all over the city. Ulus, the old city built around the ancient Byzantine citadel situated atop a steep hill, is dramatically different from the rest of Ankara. Its steep, winding streets, mosques, and small houses give it a quaintness and appeal that is lacking in the new parts of the city. Here you may still come upon an Anatolian peasant woman colorfully clad in traditional clothing, kneeling on the cobblestones while she rhythmically beats freshly shorn wool with a stick. The smell of newly baked bread emanates from crooked, high windows adorned with dangling, red peppers. Shops’ wares—copper and plastic, carpets, antiques, electrical paraphernalia and handmade baskets—overflow into the narrow streets, showing a lackadaisical disregard for contrasts of old and new. Ul us wil l rema in the heart of Ankara, no matter how fashionable or modern other areas of the city become.

America recently have opened in Ankara. Generally, most needs can be met on the local market, but imported goods are often expensive and shopping may take several stops, since specialty items often are stocked inconsistently. Ankara has several restaurants that have become favorites in the foreign community. They range from Turkish to Italian, Chinese and international cuisines. Small kebab joints abound and Americantype fast food places are beginning to catch on in Turkey. Ankara’s fourth McDonald’s has just opened.

Clothing Wardrobes can be supplemented easily by buying on the local economy. Clothing stores or tailor-made items of good quality are readily available. Taste in clothing in Turkish circles is similar to American taste, although Turkish women often wear dressier and more formal clothes to many social affairs.

Food

Plan family wardrobes for Ankara’s four-season climate. The summer months bring hot days and cool evenings. Men generally wear lightweight suits during the hot months. Shorts and sleeveless tops are more and more frequently seen on the streets, but women may feel less conspicuous in skirts and shirts with short sleeves. Swimming is a popular pastime during the hot summer months. Winter months can be cold and windy, requiring clothes similar to those needed for Washington, D.C. winters. Good rain gear, winter boots and gloves, and comfortable walking shoes are useful. It is a Turkish custom to remove shoes upon entering the home; many Americans adopt this practice, in which case slippers are needed to wear indoors during cold months and to offer guests who remove their shoes when they visit.

For daily household needs local markets offer a good selection of food products and fresh produce. Neighborhood groceries (known as bakkals) sell most staples and offer store-to-door delivery. Availability of fresh produce varies seasonally. Stores similar to supermarkets in

Toiletries, cosmetics, personal hygiene products, tobacco items, fabrics, toys, small appliances, housekeeping supplies, entertaining needs, household repair items and various other commonly-used

Roughly 1,000 Americans live in Ankara, including military and civilian employees of the U.S. government, exchange students and professors, business representatives, spouses and dependents. Except for business representatives from western Europe, the rest of the foreign community is primarily diplomatic (composed of 113 diplomatic missions). American visitors to Ankara more often come on business than as tourists.

Supplies and Services

Turkey

Cities of the World

AP/Wide World Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

Aerial view of Ankara, Turkey

items are available, though sometimes limited in selection and quality, on the Turkish economy. Local tailors, dressmakers, hair stylists, shoemakers, dry cleaners and other assorted services are available. Quality of work may vary, but overall, results have been very acceptable.

Religious Activities Interdenominational Protestant worship services are held each Sunday at the Department of Defense Dependents (DoDD) School. The Church of Jesus Christ of LatterDay Saints also meets each Sunday at the school. Roman Catholic services are held at the French Embassy chapel, Italian Embassy chapel, and the Vatican Embassy chapel. Some Americans attend the Church of St. Nicolas, of the Worldwide Anglican Communion, which is located on the British Embassy compound. The Ankara Baptist

Church holds services each Sunday in a member’s home. Most of these groups have active auxiliary organizations. A congregation of Turkish Sephardic Jews has a synagogue in the old part of Ankara.

Education Department of Defense Dependents Schools (DoDDS) operates a school system for grades Kindergarten (mornings only) through 12. The school is at the American Support Facility (ASF) in Balgat. Dependent children of employees of all U.S. government agencies in Ankara are eligible to enter the elementary and high schools. Other non-Turkish students may be admitted on a space-available, tuition-paying basis. The school’s address is: George C. Marshall School Unit 7010 APO AE 09822

Telephone: 90-312-287-2532, fax: 90-312-285-1791 The annual academic tuition rates are established by DoDDS in Washington, D.C. Registration for eligible children is ongoing throughout the summer. Children can be registered when they arrive in Ankara. The school curriculum is similar to that of public schools in the U.S. In addition to the regular curriculum, courses sometimes can be arranged to meet students’ special needs. To enter kindergarten a child must be age five on or before October 31st of the year they enroll. To enter the first grade a child must be age six on or before October 31st of the year they enroll. Admission to the various grades in the high school is contingent upon satisfactory completion of the preceding grade or its equivalent. The faculty is recruited in the U.S. under the Department of Defense 593

Turkey Educational System. At the present time about 90% of the faculty have Master’s degrees; the remainder have Bachelor’s degrees. The teachers have had an average of eighteen years of experience and about half of the school’s faculty has been in Turkey over ten years. In addition to the usual facilities, the school has a large gymnasium and an outdoor track, soccer field, and playground, well-equipped special purpose rooms for art, music, general science, biology, chemistry, physics, mechanical drawing, industrial arts and home economics. There is no school lunch program; most children bring bag lunches from home. The high school has an active program of extracurricular activities, including interscholastic sports, journalism, band (instruments furnished), choral groups, and host nation activities. The high school is accredited by the North Central Association of Colleges and Schools. The school uses the A-B-C-D-F grading system. There is a Parent-Teacher-Student Organization and a School Advisory Council. The British, French and German Embassies operate study groups (schools), that enroll students of other nationalities. The British and French Schools go through the equivalent of the primary grades and have three terms per year. The German School extends through the equivalent of grade 10.

Cities of the World Bilkent University Prep School is a private Turkish school taught in English. The school is expanding by one grade level per year and will have pre-grade six “prep” class through grade 12 by fall term 1997. Class size is limited to 20 students. The curriculum has a structure similar to the English National Curriculum but departs from it occasionally to suit the multi-cultural student body. The International General Certificate of Secondary Education curriculum is offered in grades nine and 10 and the International Baccalaureate curriculum in grades 11 and 12. Bilkent Prep’s facilities include a sports hall, a band room and a general music room, two fully equipped science labs, audio visual rooms, a computer lab, ceramics and art rooms as well as ample classrooms. There is also a cafeteria which provides lunch. There are a few excellent preschools taught in English, including the British Embassy Study Group which accepts children during the term in which they turn three years old, and the International Preschool. College degree programs are available from Turkish universities, many of which are taught in English. Part-time attendance is not common in Turkey. Incirlik Air Base in Adana oversees University of Maryland and City College of Chicago extension programs in Adana and Ankara.

Sports The British Embassy Study Group provides a British-style education based on the Common Entrance Examination syllabi for entrance to private schools in the U.K. The Study Group’s present building, set o n t h e g r ou n d s o f t h e B r i t i s h Embassy, was built in 1964. The premises contain classrooms, a wellstocked library, computer resource room, hall/gymnasium and administration offices. There is an active Pa r e n t Te a c h e r A s s o c i a t i o n . Entrance priority is given first to British students and next to native English speakers. 594

Sports in and around Ankara include tennis, softball, bowling, flag football, basketball, jogging, hunting, handball, squash, racquetball, weight-lifting, aerobics, fishing, swimming, ice skating and skiing. The DoDD School at the ASF in Balgat has a gym, weight room and racquetball court which are available after school hours for use by the American community. The Hash House Harriers have an active contingents in Ankara. They gather each Wednesday evening and Sunday afternoon to run somewhere in or around the city and

occasionally travel to other parts of the country for additional fun on the run. The Hilton and Sheraton Hotels offer year-round swimming pool/ health club memberships. Sports International is a new sports and fitness club located near Bilkent University. The facility, built by a U.S.-Turkish joint venture, is wellmaintained and impressive: it has both indoor and outdoor pools, numerous tennis courts, fitness equipment, a gymnasium and separate aerobics room, nutrition and fitness counseling, social areas, a restaurant and a cafe, saunas, solariums, a steam room, and a large child care/play area. Membership fees are high, although membership in a comparable fitness club in Washington, D.C. no doubt would be more expensive. There are other small fitness clubs located throughout the city offering workout equipment and aerobics classes. Fairly good skiing is available in areas not too far from Ankara. The slope closest to the city is Elmadag, which offers a small T-bar lift, a nice lodge and restaurant, plus a small hill for sledding. Kartalkaya, near Bolu, about three and a half hours north of Ankara, offers several beginner and intermediate runs and has two large hotels. Uludag, near Bursa, is a popular, more upscale skiing spot with many good hotels and lifts. More adventurous skiing is available at Mt. Erciyes near Kayseri and near Erzurum in eastern Turkey. Ice skating and ice hockey are available at a large, modern, indoor ice skating rink in Ankara. There are good freshwater fishing spots within three to five hours drive from Ankara. The rivers and streams of eastern Turkey, although difficult to reach, provide excellent trout fishing. Other freshwater fish such as giant catfish, carp, pike and bass, lurk in various corners of Turkey. At this time a fishing license is not required; however, there are specific fishing seasons. A hunting license is required for all game. Duck, geese, partridge, wild boar,

Turkey

Cities of the World wolf and numerous smaller game exist in many areas. Turkey also has its own species of quail and wild turkey. Often local forestry stations impose a substantial, additional fee for hunting in their jurisdictions. Sports equipment such as tennis rackets and balls, softball gear, wetsuits and snorkels, are expensive and difficult to get in Turkey. The government of Turkey permits limited importation of shotguns and rifles.

Touring and Outdoor Activities There are fine beaches on the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul, along the Aegean coast north and south of Izmir, along the Mediterranean coast, and at resort areas on the Black Sea. More and more areas of Turkey are being set aside for camping. Many national parks and forestry camps have been developed in the past few years near popular beach resorts and tourist sites. Most campsites are well-suited for tents. Many Americans bring camping equipment with them and find camping an enjoyable way to vacation in Turkey. Ankara has a few, small, neighborhood parks, some with simple playground equipment. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to walk on the grass and the children’s equipment is often broken and located on cement or hard-packed dirt. Since there is virtually no shade in the parks, the hot summer sun often prohibits playing on the metal equipment, and in winter the parks are muddy. The large Youth Park (Genclik Park) in the center of the city contains restaurants and promenades, a boating lake, a children’s playground, and a permanent midway with rides and attractions reminiscent of a country fair. Eymir Lake, affiliated with Middle East Technical University, offers a pleasant place to walk and picnic, and limited boating facilities. The current fee is about $40 per year for a family permit to the lake. Golbasi Lake is just outside of Ankara and

accessible for walks and rowboat rental without a permit. The old part of town, Ulus, has several ancient monuments which reveal the remarkable contrast of old and new in Ankara. The Byzantine citadel perches atop one of the two hills on which Ulus was built. Although the outer citadel walls have been destroyed or have fallen in ruins, the inner fortress still stands. The Roman baths date from t h e t h i r d c e n t u r y A . D. L i t t l e remains, but the baths still retain much of the essence of the original structure. Julian’s Column near Ulus Square dates from the fourth century. It is thought that the monument was erected to commemorate a visit by Emperor Julian the Apostate to Ankara.

museum is housed in a 15th century “karavansaray” adjacent to the citadel. Konya, ancient Iconium, is a four hour drive from Ankara. It was the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum and contains many monuments dating from that period. Here also are the tombs and the chapterhouse of the Turkish Islamic mystic, Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, founder of the 13th century order of dervishes widely known for their ethereal dancing. Every December many travel to Konya to see the festival of the Whirling Dervishes held in commemoration of their founder’s death.

Within the walls of the citadel is the Alaeddin Mosque, built in 1178 and renovated several times during the Ottoman Empire. Inscriptions on its finely carved, walnut pulpit that remain from its origins indicate it was built by the Seljuk Turks. Another Seljuk mosque, the Aslanhane Camii, or Lion House Mosque, built in 1289, still has its original structure and is noteworthy for its period wood- and tile-work.

Kayseri is also a four hour drive from Ankara. Situated at the foot of Mt. Erciyes, it is rich in Seljuk architecture and decorative arts, most of which lie within its well-preserved medieval fortress. Near Kayseri is the area known as Cappadocia with a surreal landscape from the erosion of the soft layer of tufa stone. The countryside is a mass of stone waves that rise into pinnacles known as peri bacalari or “fairy chimneys.” Early Christians carved these cones into homes, monasteries and churches, some still magnificently ornate with frescoes. The nearby underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli are but two of numerous troglodyte habitats in the area. These subterranean cities are fantastic to see, with their extensive ventilation shafts, round millstone-like doors and rooms that extend as deep as ten stories; it is believed that they were inhabited as early as preChristian times, and up until 1839 when locals sought refuge from the besieging Egyptian army.

Ankara houses two of the country’s finest museums: the Ethnographic Museum which contains an extensive collection of old Turkish costumes, calligraphy, wood carvings, copper, brass, ceramics and pottery, and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations which has the world’s finest collection of Hittite artifacts. The Anatolian Civilizations

Amasya, on the banks of the Yesil Irmak (Green River), is about five hours northeast of Ankara. The city is dominated by a massive cliff with the tombs of Pontic Kings carved into its face and ruins of the ancient fortress built when the kingdom was founded. Throughout the town are well-preserved examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture.

The Temple of Augustus was built in the late first century B.C. About five hundred years later, it was made into a Christian church and then in the fifteenth century one of its walls was used as a support for the roof of the Haci Bayram Mosque. The walls of this marble temple are still standing and bear the famous inscription in both Greek and Latin, “The Achievements of the Deified Augustus,” a political autobiogr aphy of the Emperor.

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The Black Sea town of Amasra is about four hours by car from Ankara. Safronbolu, en route to Amasra, is known for its fine examples of Ottoman architecture, many of which recently have been renovated. Black Sea towns offer simple hotels and camping areas near pleasant, quiet beaches. Bolu, on the way to Istanbul, is about a three hour drive northwest of Ankara. Nearby is Lake Abant where you may fish, boat or swim. A hotel overlooking the lake provides good accommodations. Istanbul is now five or so hours drive from Ankara, depending on how fast your car will go—or how fast you will let it go. The new super toll highway linking the two cities is complete except for the tunnel through the mountain at Bolu. Once the tunnel is complete, the drive will be quick and painless, given decent weather. As it is, the area around Bolu can be congested and dangerous with trucks and foolhardy drivers daring blindly to pass them. Some still prefer to fly to Istanbul, get a sleeper car on the overnight train, or travel by intercity buses—especially the smokefree, double-decker buses with dining and toilet facilities.

Entertainment The Turkish State Opera and the Turkish State Conservatory are located in Ankara. The Presidential Symphony Orchestra offers two performances a week during its regular season. Several theaters present decent plays in Turkish. Occasionally touring foreign companies visit. USIS and the cultural departments of other embassies, especially the French and the British, sponsor musical and theatrical performances. Tickets for all of these are very modestly priced. The Turkish American Association sponsors concerts, lectures, movies and art exhibitions. In addition to Turkish films, local movie theaters present American and European movies with Turkish subtitles. 596

Social Activities There are numerous opportunities for activities within the American community in Ankara. Activities for children and teenagers generally revolve around the DoDD School. Active Boy and Girl Scout programs and youth sports programs involve many children and adult volunteers to run them. The Ankara Women’s Club provides monthly social and cultural programs for its members. The Ankara Professional Women’s Network was founded as a forum for women who work or would like to work in Turkey and hosts periodic lectures and seminars. It aims to create a network of support readily accessible to foreign women who wish to work in Ankara; obviously, efforts to negotiate a bilateral work agreement are o f g r e a t i n t e r e s t . T h e U. S. Embassy’s Community Center, based in a small apartment in one of the embassy-leased buildings, is run on a member-volunteer basis and offers mother-toddler, bridge players’, and cooking groups and other events members organize. The Community Center is open to the greater American community, and others on an associate member, space available basis. The ERA hosts occasional TGIF parties, Block Parties, Happy Hours and other seasonal events such as the winter Holiday Bazaar and a Fourth of July party. The greater American community and other guests are invited to these events. Friends of ARIT was formed in 1983 by Americans in the Ankara community interested in the art, history and archaeology of Turkey to help promote the work of the Ankara Branch of ARIT (American Research Institute in Turkey). Friends of ARIT frequently sponsors lectures given by visiting or local scholars, informative tours around Turkey’s archaeological sites, and benefit dinners. The ARIT library has a specialized collection of books and periodicals on archaeology in Turkey. Many of the organizations mentioned above also offer opportunities

for meeting Turks and other foreign nationals. There are several avenues for contributing to and volunteering for charitable organizations, including the Turkish-American Women’s Cultural and Charitable Society, an active volunteer group with an international membership. The Cocuk Sevenler Dernegi (Child Lovers’ Society) gives volunteer help to orphans in the Ankara area, and also has an international membership. The need for volunteer work is great, newcomers are always welcome, and any contribution is appreciated. The TurkishAmerican Association cosponsors an annual ARIT lecture series on archaeology. It also organizes guided tours for its members to areas of archaeological and scenic interest.

Istanbul The mention of Istanbul evokes romantic images of the imperial sultans, janissaries and harems of the Ottoman Empire, of Byron and Keats who immortalized through verse the glories of Byzantium, of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the Orient Express. Istanbul has never been a monolithic Turkish city, but rather a cosmopolitan blend of nationalities. In 1906, only 44% of its 870,000 residents were Turkish or Arab Moslems. In the period from 1839-1880, large numbers of European workers and tradesmen settled in Pera on the European side of the Bosphorus, north of the Golden Horn, where they built hotels, houses and palaces and demanded a higher standard of city services. The remainder were a pastiche of Greeks, Armenians, Jews and foreigners from all over Europe. Old Stamboul, south of the Golden Horn and heavily Moslem, languished and suffered from the terrible destruction of the city’s frequent fires. The European residents of Pera brought in urban planners from Germany and Italy who replaced traditional wooden structures with buildings made of stone. This created a European oasis in Istanbul, a distinction from the rest of the city that remains today.

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Ayasofye Mosque in Istanbul

Many middle- and upper-class members of contemporary Istanbul society are pro-western and consider themselves European. The city is a unique synthesis of east and west upon the exotic echoes of ancient Byzantium and old Constantinople. Simultaneously, it is a bustling, modern, industrial city of 8 million people. There is no end to the fascination of Istanbul. Those fortunate enough to be assigned to a tour of duty here should find it an enriching experience.

Food Istanbul markets offer a wide selection of excellent, seasonal fresh fruits and vegetables. Each neighborhood has its own bakkal (small grocery), as well as fresh fruit and vegetable markets. Beef, lamb, mutton and chicken are available from local butchers. Fresh fish is available in season. There are a growing number of large supermarkets, which carry a wide range of local

and imported foodstuffs. Turkish bread, baked throughout the day, is excellent. Local pastries, bottled fruit drinks, and other local foodstuffs are plentiful. The overall quality of food in Istanbul is excellent. There are numerous restaurants throughout the city, ranging from tiny kebab shops to luxurious fish restaurants along the Bosphorus. Istanbul has a growing number of fast-food restaurants, including McDonald’s, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Wimpy’s, and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Clothing Turks’ taste in clothing is similar to that of Americans, but Turks generally wear dressier and more formal clothes to social affairs. Clothing stores feature current women’s fashions in every price range, although at prices above those for comparable clothing in the U.S. and with a limited range of sizes. Local

fabrics are available for those who sew or wish to hire a dressmaker. Many items can be made locally at reasonable prices. Locally made leather wear is a particularly good buy. Since the temperatures in Istanbul resemble those of Washington, D.C., clothing for all seasons is needed. Homes are generally maintained at cooler temperatures in Istanbul than in the U.S. Raincoats and bo ots are necessary because of winter rain and mud. Shoe selection is limited. Men: Sportswear, shirts, sweaters, and other items may be purchased locally. The quality of these items ranges from acceptable to excellent; prices are higher than in the U.S. for comparable quality goods. Some local tailors are satisfactory for suits and jackets. Women: Women should bring at least a couple of dresses or suits appropriate for receptions or din597

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ners. Turkish women often wear black; a dark dress or suit would be useful. Long evening dresses are worn infrequently; but one or two suitable for the occasional black tie dinner might be needed. A long wool or velveteen skirt is worthwhile for cold winter evenings. Children: Some children’s clothing and shoes are also available locally in Turkish stores, but prices are high, even for Turkish-made items.

Supplies and Services Foreign and local toiletries and cosmetics are available on the local market, but at substantially higher prices than in the U.S. Pharmaceuticals are often in short supply on the local market. Miscellaneous household supplies and gadgets are available locally. Bookstores sell English-language newspapers, magazines and books but at prices higher than in the U.S. Shoe, watch, radio, phonograph, and automobile repair facilities are available. The quality of work varies. There are several excellent dry cleaning shops, though quality varies.

Religious Activities Religious groups represented in Istanbul include Anglican, Protestant, Roman Catholic, Gregorian, Armenian, Greek Orthodox, and Jewish. Each has its charitable organizations and societies. Two social welfare centers originally founded as branches of the Young Men’s and Young Women’s Christian Associations are directed by Americans but are now registered as local institutions with Turkish names. Several Roman Catholic churches are located throughout the city and offer services in English. The Cathedral of the Holy Spirit is directly across the street from the Hilton Hotel, and services in English are also held at the Church of St. Anthony in Beyoglu and in the Chapel of the Little Sisters of the Poor (in Sisli). The Anglican Community holds services at the Crimean Church near the Consu598

late, and once a month on the grounds of the British Consulate General (also not far from the U.S. Consulate). Protestant services in English are held in the Interdenominational Union Church (Dutch Chapel). The Jewish Community is mostly Sephardic; synagogues are Orthodox.

tions at Christmas and in the spring. Average yearly enrollment is 150 to 170 students representing 20 or more nationalities. Class size seldom exceeds 20 students.

Education

Istanbul offers a variety of sports facilities and activities. The ENKA Sports Club in Istinye has a full range of sports facilities, including tennis courts, Olympic-sized swimming poo ls, and indo or rack et courts. However, membership fees are very expensive. Robert College in Arnavutkoy has a tennis court. The British Consulate General also has a tennis and squash court and Americans can become members of this club. The Hilton Hotel and some of the other five star hotels have tennis courts and gym facilities, but memberships are expensive. There are also a variety of sports clubs which offer free-weight or universal-gym weight training and/or aerobics classes.

There are long waiting lists of students seeking admission to IICS.

Sports English-language schooling for American dependents in Istanbul is available through grade 10. Schooling is available beyond this level, but the schools either do not readily accept American students or are inadequate. American children from kindergarten through grade 10 usually attend the Istanbul International Community School (IICS), an autonomous school originally affiliated with Robert College. The school is directed by an American headmaster and follows a combined American/International curriculum. A school board representing parents is responsible for educational, financial, and personnel policies. The school is working towards a European Council of International Schools accreditation. Students from IICS have been readily accepted by schools in the U.S. and Europe. Standardized achievement and aptitude tests are given at all grade levels. The school is a member of the Educational Records Bureau and the Educational Testing Service, and is a test center for the Secondary School Admission Test (SSAT). The school’s curriculum includes science, computers, mathematics, art, music, physical education, French, and Turkish. The school has a library of about 5,000 volumes. The school does not provide lunch. IICS receives grant assistance from the State Department Office of Overseas Schools. Information on the school is available from the annual school fact sheets prepared by that office. School opens in late August and closes in late June, providing about 180 days of instruction. The calendar is similar to that of American schools, but with two-week vaca-

Istanbul affords swimming opportunities at the sea of Marmara and the Black Sea; however, some areas are less polluted and safer for swimming than others. Some hotels have swimming pools. Again, memberships are very expensive. Opportunities for lap swimming are rare in Istanbul. Istanbul entertains many boating fans. The best known of several yacht clubs is the Moda Club, located on the Sea of Marmara. Privileges at this club, including boat rentals, are for members only but foreigners may join. Sailing on the Bosphorus can be dangerous because of unpredictable winds and very strong currents, so it is not recommended for novices. Rowboats and runabouts are popular for sport fishing, and water skiing. Some Americans have brought motors from the U.S. to avoid paying high prices for those imported into Turkey. Locally produced boats and small motor craft, although usually expensive, may be purchased or rented.

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Cities of the World Bird and duck hunting in the vicinity of Istanbul are fair, but game resources are depleted early in the season. Hunting season is from September to April. Small game within one or two hours drive of Istanbul include European quail, wild pigeon, woodcock, and duck. Wild boar are also hunted in Turkey. Horseback riding is not very popular in Istanbul and facilities are limited. There is, however, a small riding academy. The academy offers lessons in riding and jumping for persons of all ages at reasonable rates (instruction is in Turkish). Bring safety helmets. Uludag (near Bursa) and Kartalkaya (near Bolu on the Ankara road) offer good accommodations for skiing enthusiasts. Modern ski tows are in operation, and ski equipment may be rented inexpensively. Crosscountry skiing trails are available, but rare. IICS sponsors a ski trip every winter to Uludag for its students, their parents, and other interested adults in the American community. Istanbul has two nine-hole golf courses. Entry fees are expensive. Caddies charge reasonable fees but are not always available. Clubhouses serve refreshments. Squash courts are available to members of the British Consulate Club and their guests. Some fencing and pingpong are available at the Hilton Tennis Club. Pickup basketball, volleyball, softball, and touch football games are organized occasionally. An ice-skating rink is located in the Galleria shopping mall near the airport. Fame City, a complex of video games and arcades, is also located in the Galleria. Some individuals jog along the Bosphorus, but exhaust fumes and pollution take some of the joy out of this sort of activity. There are, however, fitness trails and jogging paths in the Belgrade Forest and in some wooded park areas of the city. The Hash House Harriers find weekly occasion to do their thing and encourage participation by all.

Soccer is the national mania; tickets to major games are scarce, but readily available for other games. Turkey’s national team plays a confederation of middle European teams at home and abroad. There are professional basketball and volleyball teams, and the games are well-attended.

Children’s Recreation Istanbul has practically no children’s sports facilities, although a few playgrounds and parks are in or near the city, such as Yildiz Park and Gulhane Park. Scouts and Brownies are very popular. Troops are organized through IICS. Other children’s activities, such as an annual ski trip, are also organized through IICS.

Touring and Outdoor Activities It is impossible to exaggerate the magnificence of the museums and variety of collections in Istanbul. Topkapi and Dolmabahce Palaces, and the Aya Sofya and Sultan Ahmet Mosque are but a few of the famous, grand monuments and treasures Istanbul has to offer. The Kariye museum, restored by Dumbarton Oaks, has some of the finest examples of Byzantine mosaics and frescoes in the world. The Archeological Museum has an extensive collection and the Museum of Ancient Oriental Art houses rare artifacts from Babylonian, Assyrian, Egyptian, and Hittite civilizations. Strolling through various quarters of the city or shopping at the incomparable covered bazaar are popular weekend pastimes. Excellent sight-seeing tours are organized by the Turkish-American University Association and American Research Institute in Turkey. Lectures, films, and other cultural events are also sponsored by these groups, along with their annual fund-raising activities. Ferries crisscross the Bosphorus and the Marmara on regular runs. Some boats can be chartered. Touring outside Istanbul and around Turkey reveals abundant historical and scenic sites. Many posted to Istanbul enjoy a popular “mavi yolculuk,” or

“blue cruise” along the Aegean and Mediterranean coastlines and the Black Sea. Ample opportunities exist for outdoor activities. A series of automobile camping sites has been established along well-traveled routes. The planning and implementation of hiking expeditions require individual initiative, as few organized groups or facilities exist. The many hotels are reasonably clean and uncrowded making Istanbul a good location from which to plan weekend getaways. There are historical sites of great interest in every direction and many are within a few hours drive or less from the city. Travel possibilities are practically limitless. The Belgrade Forest, a park built around Istanbul’s reservoir north of the city, has excellent picnic facilities. Permission has been obtained for Scouts and other groups to camp overnight within the park.

Entertainment T h e A ta t u r k C u l t u ra l C e n t e r, located at Taksim Square in downtown Istanbul, is the center of the city’s cultural life. The Center’s cultural season runs from October to early June and includes opera and ballet as well as other productions. Plays are performed at several theaters throughout the city. The Istanbul orchestra has an annual concert program. The annual Istanbul Festival of Culture and the Arts takes place from mid-June until mid-July and is the highlight of the musical entertainment year. This international festival includes participants from many countries that have diplomatic representation in Turkey. Exciting music, dance, and theater events permeate the city and are reasonably priced. Most of Istanbul’s many movie houses show foreign films with Turkish subtitles. Each spring the city hosts the Istanbul International Film Festival which brings some of the best new foreign films to local screens. 599

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Istanbul has many excellent restaurants ranging from kebab shops located throughout the city to more expensive fish restaurants on the Bosphorus to very expensive restaurants with European cuisines. Turkish cooking is varied, colorful, and delicious. Istanbul also has an abundance of night clubs, taverns, discos, neighborhood bars, fast-food restaurants, casinos, cozy restaurants, tea gardens, waterside cafes, museums, exhibitions, art galleries, shopping malls, department stores, Englishlanguage bookstores, and Bosphorus cruises. Although Istanbul is a remarkable, cosmopolitan city, increasingly congested traffic makes it difficult and time consuming to get out and do things, especially during messy winter days. Most programs (including English and American movies) on Turkish television have been dubbed in Turkish; occasionally these English-language programs are simulcast in the original language on one of the Turkish radio stations.

Social Activities Most Americans in Istanbul are either of the U.S. government civilian, business, or institutional community. The latter includes teachers and others, many of whom have had broad and varied experiences in Turkey. Both the American Women of Istanbul and the International Women’s Club sponsor a number of cultural, social, and charitable events throughout the year. Children’s social contacts are largely organized through the IICS and Consulate-sponsored events. Organizations such as the TurkishAmerican University Association (particularly the women’s group), the Propeller Club, and Rotary Club provide excellent opportunities to meet Turks. Tours organized by local agencies also offer these opportunities. The non-Turkish speaker may find himself somewhat limited in his contacts. Nonetheless, Turks are very patient, friendly and hospi600

table, and many speak English, German, or French. Istanbul has a large consular corps and foreign business community. The Propeller Club is a good introduction to foreign and Turkish business representatives. The International Women’s Club of Istanbul holds monthly meetings and sponsors a variety of activities. The American Girls Dershane (originally a YMCA project), the Vehbi Koc Vakfi American Hospital and other charities afford those who are interested a chance to assist local groups and to meet members of the Turkish and international communities.

Adana Adana is 30 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, a five to seven hour drive from Ankara and eight hours by car from Damascus. The fifth largest city in Turkey with a population of over one million, it is a wealthy provincial capital on the rich delta plain of the area once known as Cilicia. Adana is a rapidly expanding agricultural and industrial center. The old town center lies along the banks of the Seyhan River. As in many Turkish cities, this original hub is surrounded by newer residential areas and fringed with squatter settlements. New Adana lies to the north, between the railroad and Cukurova University, on the lake formed by the Seyhan Dam. Adana has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Excavations at Tarsus and Mersin (within an hour’s drive of Adana) have exposed layers of civilizations going back to Neolithic times, possibly as early as 6000 B.C. Numerous powers have dominated and settled Adana as they fought their way across Anatolia. Alexander the Great passed through the area when he destroyed the Persian Empire and conquered the Middle East. After Alexander’s death, Adana became part of the Seleucid State. The area was conquered by the Romans after centuries of Greek rule. Reminiscent of Roman rule is a stone bridge built

by Hadrian across the Seyhan River that is still in use today. In 1132 A.D., Armenians took over Adana and it became a center of Armenian culture. In 1515 it was captured by the Turks. It remained a part of the Ottoman Empire until the end of World War I. Adana’s summers are hot and humid with very little rainfall. In winter the temperature rarely falls below freezing, yet rains that last for days make it seem colder. Fall and spring are magnificent with sunny days and pleasantly cool evenings. When compared to the U.S. the climate of Adana resembles that of the cotton growing areas of Mississippi and Texas. The Cilician plain (now called Cukurova) has been described as the “Texas of Turkey,” where cotton and citrus fruits are the principal crops, and wealthy farmers and textile manufacturers dominate the region’s economy. Adana is connected with the rest of Turkey by a good system of roads, and with Ankara and Istanbul by daily air and train service. Coastal steamers call at nearby Iskenderun and Mersin en route to Turkish ports and Northern Cyprus. Travel on secondary roads is difficult during the rainy seasons, but feasible throughout the rest of the year. Transportation within the city includes both motor and horsedrawn vehicles. Most of the American community is made up of U.S. Air Force and attached U.S. government civilian personnel stationed at Incirlik, a Turkish air base nine miles east of the city. About 500 American families reside in Adana proper. Given the large local Kurdish population, Kurdish is widely spoken in the eastern provinces. Many Turks in the area also speak some Arabic or another European language, but English is the most common second language for businessmen.

Food Food supplies on the local market vary widely according to the season. In the fall and winter months, meats, fruits and vegetables are

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or sports coats are normally worn only for evening social functions. At daytime social functions, Turkish women wear attractive dressy suits and afternoon dresses. Women customarily go without stockings during the hot summer months. Most foreign women feel self-conscious on the streets in shorts or sleeveless clothes. At dinners and cocktail parties, well-to-do Turkish women wear European fashions either purchased abroad or made by local dressmakers after European fashions. Evening wear is usually dark or black. Turkish businesswomen wear attire appropriate for the season and similar in style to that worn by American businesswomen. During both summer and winter, children need clothing that will survive the many washings necessary after play in alternating dust and mud. This means many changes of light cotton clothes in the summer and numerous sweaters and overalls in the winter.

Supplies and Services Community services are adequate. Good barbering is available both at Incirlik and in Adana proper. Several beauty shops in town are satisfactory. Adequate dry cleaners exist locally and at Incirlik. Sabanci mosque in Adana, Turkey

plentiful. Local beef and lamb are inexpensive and easy to find although quality may vary. Fruits and vegetables are seasonal but abundant, inexpensive, and of excellent quality. Local pastries and bread are quite good. A liquor store at Incirlik carries wine, beer, spirits and liqueurs. Spirits are rationed to five bottles per person per month. Good Turkish wines are available on the local market.

Clothing In the intense summer heat, lightweight cottons and washable fabrics are most comfortable. Sports attire and swimming suits are useful for

AP/Wide World Photos, Inc. Reproduced by permission.

picnics and beach parties. During the winter, warm clothing is necessary since seasonal rains bring damp cold. Indoor clothing needs to be warmer than normally worn in U.S. homes since the apartments are heated less; medium-weight coats are sufficient for outdoors. Raincoats, boots and umbrellas are also necessary during the winter rainy season. Ready-made clothing of suitable quality and style is usually available. Adana has good tailors and dressmakers. Good local fabrics are also available. During the summer and warm months of spring and fall, local custom is going tieless and coatless in short-sleeved shirts. Summer suits

Religious Activities The USAF Chapel at Incirlik offers Catholic and Protestant services. There is also a Catholic Church in downtown Adana. Jewish, Mormon and other denominational services occasionally are held at Incirlik. Adana has a small Jewish community and a synagogue.

Education Children of U.S. government personnel attend the dependent school at Incirlik on a tuition basis. The school, fully accredited by the North Central Association, offers kindergarten through high school. Preschool is available at Incirlik for three- and four-year-olds.

Sports A gymnasium, swimming pool, tennis courts, handball and squash 601

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courts, a nine-hole golf course, and a bowling alley at Incirlik are open to American citizens.

Adana officials and business representatives are also enjoyed by Americans.

Ample opportunity for hunting (license necessary and available to diplomats only) and fishing exists within a day’s drive of Adana. Wild boar are found near Tarsus and migratory waterfowl gather in the salt marshes south of Adana. Trout fishing is available in the mountains near Kahramanmaras.

A large number of Americans posted to Adana reside in the village of Incirlik outside the base. Aside from cocktail and dinner parties at home, the social activities of the American military community center around the facilities at Incirlik.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Recreation for most Americans revolves around picnicking and swimming. The nearby beaches and mountains provide relief from the heat on weekends. Beaches along the Mediterranean are undeveloped and beautiful. A few campgrounds have been established as part of the national program to attract tourists to Turkey. Several moderatelypriced hotels with excellent beaches are within a two hour drive of Adana. Adana is literally surrounded by undeveloped archeological sites. Ruins of medieval castles and cities from Greek to Armenian eras are within easy driving distance over good but heavily traveled roads. The Adana district is rich in historical sites, many dating back to Hittite times. The town of Tarsus, about 25 miles west of Adana on the Mersin Road, is renowned as the birthplace of St. Paul the Apostle.

Entertainment There is little cultural activity in Adana. Occasional local theater productions are in Turkish. Numerous indoor and outdoor movie theaters feature Turkish, European and some American films. Foreign films usually have Turkish subtitles. The movie theater at Incirlik offers American movies, including a Saturday children’s matinee. The best food served in local restaurants is Turkish, although some European dishes are offered. There are several nightclubs that offer dancing, food and snacks, and a variety of musical entertainment. Several clubs, hotels and restaurants patronized by 602

Social Activities

Entertainment within the Turkish community consists largely of dinner parties during the fall, winter and spring to which Americans or other foreigners are frequently invited. In the summer months, Turkish wives and children move to Istanbul or to the mountains to escape the heat and humidity, and social life in Adana is virtually suspended. Even though many of the locals speak English, any effort made to speak Turkish is welcome and appreciated. The TurkishAmerican Association affords excellent opportunities for making Turkish friends. It is staffed by a locallyhired director and is located at No. 27, Bes Ocak Caddesi, Resat Bey Mahallesi.

Special Information There are English-speaking Turkish doctors in the city of Adana who have had training in the U.S. or Europe, but their equipment is limited and certain medicines are sometimes not available on the local market. Necessary surgery, eye examinations, and diagnostic work should be taken care of before coming. Those planning to reside in Adana for some time should be inoculated against typhoid, polio, tetan u s, c h o l e r a a n d d i p h t h e r i a . Gamma globulin shots also should be considered. Because of the hot weather in the summer and humidity in both summer and winter, persons with arrested TB or sinus conditions should consult a doctor before coming to post. Dental care also is available from westerntrained local dentists, many of whom speak excellent English. The rapid urbanization of the area has had negative effects: noise, dirt,

inadequate sewage disposal systems, and severe traffic jams. Malaria outbreaks unfortunately have become more frequent in the past several years. This is due to an increase in breeding places resulting from expanded irrigation in rural areas, poor drainage in the city itself, and the development of the anopheles mosquito resistant to conventional insecticides. Many people take malaria prophylactics. Hepatitis is endemic.

Izmir Izmir, with an estimated metropolitan population of 2.1 million, is Turkey’s third largest city and the unofficial capital of Aegean Turkey, the country’s scenic and fruitful southwestern region. With a fine harbor midway down the western coast, it is Turkey’s second busiest port. Its hinterland, rich in tobacco, cotton, fruits, and vegetables, makes it even more important than Istanbul as an export center. In recent years, Izmir has also become the country’s second industrial area. The city boasts of being “the pearl of the Aegean.” Increasing numbers of foreign tourists are finding that it is surrounded by some of the world’s loveliest scenery. Hi storica lly, Iz mir wa s bett er known under the Greek form of its name, Smyrna. It has been an important center for over 3,000 years, seeing the passage of Lydians, Ionian Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Seljuks, Tartars, Crusaders, Venetians, and Ottomans. A modern Greek invading force was driven from Izmir into the sea in 1922, and the city was subsequently incorporated into the Republic of Turkey. The surrounding area abounds in relics of earlier times, especially of classical antiquity, but in Izmir itself, the only relics of earlier eras are the foundations of the earliest Greek city, a part of the Roman agora, a hilltop castle of indeterminate age, some handsome Ottoman mosques, and a few streets of rapidly disappearing 19th-century buildings.

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Cities of the World Not only the monuments, but also the people of old Smyrna, have given way to the new. Until World War II, the population was largely non-Turkish—Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and “Leventines” (Italian, French, British, Dutch, and German nationals whose families had lived in Smyrna for generations). Today, the population is almost entirely Turkish, a large part of it first or second generation Izmirlis whose families were Turkish refugees from Greece or Bulgaria or migrants from interior Anatolia. If Izmir is still the most “Western” of Turkish cities, it is so because of its location, its wealth, and its general vitality, as well as the consequence of its history. Izmir extends along the U-shaped head of a bay which runs east-west and is surrounded mostly by high hills. The major part of the city is on the southern shore. Closest to the center is the Konak quarter, which is both the traffic hub and the main shopping district. In appearance and atmosphere, this is the most picturesque part of Izmir; it has much of the character of an old Near Eastern marketing center. North of this area is the quarter of Alsancak, most of which is quite modern. It is a level area with welldesigned streets, modern apartment blocks, and stores and warehouses. Alsancak is the district where most Americans live and spend the greater part of their time. The U.S. Consulate is at one end of this area, and the best hotels at the other. Here also are the best apartment buildings, shops, restaurants, the fair grounds (Culture Park), the cathedral, and the offices of the Turkish-American Association. Like most rapidly developing cities in older countries, Izmir is a city of contrasts. Beneath the attractive and almost serene skyline, seen from a distance, are all the problems of contemporary urban blight—from housing shortages to air and water pollution—much aggravated by a population that has not yet made the adaptation from rural to metropolitan living. For all

i t s p r o b l e m s, h o w e v e r, I z m i r remains a thriving, vital city. Minor frustrations in daily living abound, but the climate, scenery, history, and a friendly population more than compensate for them. American associations with Izmir go back to the early 19th century, when American traders, shippers, missionaries, and teachers first settled in the then predominantly foreig n ci ty. Apart from the U.S. Consulate General, and a long tradition of good will, the only remainder of this earlier association is the American Girls’ School, a fine secondary school for Turkish girls which is largely managed and staffed by Americans. At a later date, oriental tobacco was exported from Izmir to the U.S. in large quantities. This remains an important trade today, and every major American tobacco company has its permanent representative in Izmir. By far the largest number of Americans to visit Izmir in recent years have been military personnel. The U.S. Air Force maintained a base at Cigli (now the site of the city’s civil airport) for many years. This base was relinquished in 1970, and almost half of the American military and their dependents left. A smaller military presence remains, however. Izmir is the site of two important NATO commands, Headquarters Landsoutheast and Headquarters Sixth Allied Tactical Air Force. Serving these commands is a U.S. Air Force logistical support organization, known as 7241 Air Base Group. In the future, it seems likely that new Turkish-American ties in Izmir will develop through tourism and industrial investment and development. The total American population of Izmir (military and civilian) is over 2,000.

by 7241 Air Base Group primarily for the American military, include an elementary section and a high school, covering grades one through 12. They offer courses and extracurricular activities normally found in public schools in the U.S. Qualified American teachers are employed. The high school is fully accredited. There are no boarding facilities. The Izmir-Amerikan Kiz Lisesi at Goztepe (Izmir) is a girls’ churchrelated day school, accredited by the Turkish Ministry of Education. The American/Turkish curriculum for the 1,200 enrolled students is mainly college preparatory. Classes are held in grades seven through 12. An American headmaster is the administrator. The school address is: Inonu Caddesi 476, Goztepe, Izmir, Turkey.

Recreation Touring is the foremost attraction of a visit to Izmir. An enjoyable outing is a drive (over fairly good roads and through magnificent scenery) to one of the picturesquely located ancient city temple sites for a picnic and a few hours of walking and climbing among the ruins. Sometimes rocky climbs and overgrowth make walking difficult, but it is an activity enjoyed by young and old. In summer, it is often possible to include some swimming in such an excursion. The roster of place names is enough to excite any amateur historian’s imagination. Within an hour or so are Ephesus, Sardis, Teos, and Claros; within two to three hours are Priene, Miletus, Didymae, and Aphrodisias. Requiring overnight stays, but within easy reach, are Hierapolis (Pamukkale), Termessos, Halicarnassus (Bodrum), Antalya, Perge, Side, and Aspendos and Troy and Assos.

Education

Acceptable tourist hotels and restaurants are found at or near most of the touring sites. Camping is also possible at many spots.

C h i l d r e n o f U. S. G o v e r n m e n t employees in Izmir attend the Department of Defense schools in Alsancak. These schools, operated

European football (soccer) is the great spectator and participant sport in Izmir. In summer, sea bath603

Turkey ing is the most popular outdoor activity for Americans. The local season runs only from the beginning of July to the end of August, but those accustomed to cooler waters find the Aegean pleasant from the end of May through October. Pollution makes the inner Bay of Izmir unfit for bathing, but good swimming is found between 45 and 90 minutes’ drive to the south, west, or north. The favored sand beaches suitable for children are at Çeöme (75 minutes west), Gumuldur (60 minutes south), and Kuöadasi (90 minutes south). Swimming is also possible along some of the rockier parts of the coast, and some areas provide good snorkeling and scuba diving. Most resort hotels make bathing facilities available for the day at a small cost. Elsewhere, facilities are rustic and informal. A sturdy windproof tent is a useful item for changing, as is a large canvas beach umbrella for sunning in isolated areas. Fitted rubber or plastic bathing shoes are desirable. The Bay of Izmir—indeed, the whole Aegean coast—is ideal for sailing. The sport is new to the area, with the result that boats are hard to find during the summer, either for sale or for rent. For those willing to rough it, small wooden coasters with minimal facilities can be rented, with crew, for cruises along the coast and to the nearby Greek islands. Favorite areas for sailors are the lower Bay of Izmir, Bodrum, and Marmaris. Sea fishing is good, but seasonal. The Izmir area has good hunting in fall and winter. The favorite game are wild boar, partridge, duck, and woodcock. Private hunting parties are usually pleased to take along Americans. Primitive accommodations must be expected. The Izmir Tennis Club and the Buyuk Efes Hotel Tennis Club both admit nonpermanent res ident Americans for reasonable fees. Horseback riding facilities are available at the nearby suburb of Buca (nominal fees). The closest ski604

Cities of the World ing area is a day’s drive away at Mount Ulu Dag, near Bursa; rates are below those of European counterparts. For those whose favorite activity is walking, Izmir is disappointing. The lack of sidewalks, constant construction, and heavy traffic make walking difficult everywhere but on a few streets (including the waterfront) in Alsancak. Numerous places for hikes or strolls exist, however, within an hour’s drive.

Entertainment Entertainment in Izmir is largely an individual activity. Concerts of Western music are rare; no opera exists; and the occasional plays performed by the State Theater are in Turkish. A Little Theater group presents about five plays each season, primarily in English, but occasionally in French. The Izmir Symphony performs weekly from October to June. All movies, even imported ones, have Turkish soundtracks. The annual Izmir Fair provides “amusement park” entertainment from August 20 to September 20. Nightclubs with floor shows are numerous, but only two or three are appropriate for foreign clientele. The 7241 Air Base Group operates a post motion picture theater with a fair selection of American films. The Turkish-American Association and the French and German cultural centers sponsor occasional classic f i l m s, c o n c e r t s, r e c i t a l s, a n d exhibits.

any travel outside the city. Real social contact (except at the household domestic, shopkeeper, and tourist-establishment level) may be difficult for Americans because of language barriers and cultural and economical differences. This does not mean that relations are in any way unfriendly or strained—quite the contrary—but merely that real communication is established only with the relatively thin stratum of educated and “Westernized” Turks in the city, or with other foreign residents. Acceptance is quicker, and hospitality warmer, than one could expect to find in Europe. It is often the Turk who seeks out the American, rather than vice versa. The use of even limited Turkish is an effective icebreaker, and a knowledge of French or German will open up a range of contacts. Some opportunities exist for voluntary and charitable services.

OTHER CITIES

In the Turkish-American building, the United States Information Service (USIS) has a good reference and lending library of English-language books and periodicals. The Air Force maintains, for its personnel, a well-stocked library of English-language books and periodicals, including a special section devoted to Turkey and the Middle East.

ANTALYA (formerly called Adalia) is the main tourist resort on the Turkish Riviera. Situated 250 miles southwest of Ankara on the Gulf of Antalya, this Mediterranean port has a population of 509,000. Besides tourism, the local economy is based on fruit and timber production. Established in the second century B.C., Antalya was the departure point for the apostle Paul on his first missionary journey. The city was a Byzantine bulwark in the Middle Ages. The old town, enclosed by fortified walls, is set on the summit of a low cliff. Travel writers presented this district with their Golden Apple award in 1985 for its successful restoration. Architectural features from the past have been retained in the midst of a busy leisure center. A hotel and several restaurants on the waterfront accommodate the tourist trade. Antalya has panoramic vistas over the Bey Mountains.

Although English and French are spoken in Izmir, a knowledge of Turkish is almost essential for genuine intercultural exchange and for

BURSA, in the northwest, is the capital of the province whose name it bears. It is a commercial and industrial center (noted especially

Turkey

Cities of the World for textiles) in an agricultural region. Its current population is approximately 1.1 million. Bursa was founded at the end of the third century by Prusius I, the king of Bithynia, and was named Prusa ad Olympium. It was captured in 1075 by the Seljuk Turks, less than 20 years later by the Crusaders and, early in the 13th century, was passed to the Byzantines. In 1326, the city was taken by the forces of Orkan I, and became the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Many baths, caravanserais, and mosques remain from that period. ESKIÖEHIR, the capital of the eponymous province in the westcentral part of the republic, lies in a rich agricultural area. It is home to a population of about 450,000. Chief among its monuments are the Ptolemaic temple in the city and, nearby, a Christian monastery dating from the 10th century. GAZIANTEP is an ancient Hittite city in the southern province of the same name. It was the center of resistance against French occupation of the region in 1920-21 and, although taken by the French, it was soon returned to Turkey. It was for this heroic resistance that the city, formerly Aintab, was given its present name, derived from Gazi, meaning “warrior for the faith.” In earlier centuries, it was a strategic place in war against the Crusaders. Gaziantep has a current population of about 702,000. KAYSERI (also called Kaisaria), in central Turkey, is situated at the foot of Erciyas Dagi peak. As Caesarea Mazaca, it was the chief city of ancient Cappadocia. It was founded as a modern city in the fourth century, and became important as a trade center. Kayseri is a large marketplace for Turkish carpets, and now has a population estimated at 491,000. At Kanesh, in the immediate area, is an archaeological site which dates to the third millennium. KIRIKKALE is the principal city in Kirikkale District, located 38 miles east of Ankara. The introduction of

steel mills to the city in the 1950s spurred rapid growth. Today, these factories are among Turkey’s largest. Chemical plants were opened here in the 1960s. Plans have been announced for the erection of an oil refinery. Kirikkale is also a local market for livestock products and cereals from the Kizil River valley area. The city has an estimated population of more than 205,000. KONYA is a city of approximately 611,000 residents in south-central Turkey. It is an agricultural and livestock center, but is known also for the carpets and silks it produces. Konya’s ancient name was Iconium. As a religious center, it was the seat of the Order of Whirling Dervishes, and the tomb of the order’s leader, the mystic Celaleddin Rumi, is preserved here, as are many of the ancient city walls. MARAÖ (also called Kahramanmaraö), located at the base of the eastern Taurus Mountains, 275 miles southeast of Ankara, has a population of over 180,000. It is a commercial and light industrial center; carpets and embroideries are among its products. The city is close to the southern opening of three principal passes through the mountains. It has always been a strategically important trade center between inner Anatolia and upper Syria. Maraö was under Muslim control from 700 to 1197, when it was captured by Crusaders. It became Turkish in the 16th century. The area is connected to the rest of Turkey by road and rail. MERSIN, a city of close to 500,000, lies on the Mediterranean in southern Turkey. It is a seaport and rail terminus, exporting minerals and agricultural products. It is located 40 miles west-southwest of Adana. E x c a v a t i o n s i n t h e a r e a h av e revealed the remains of a settlement which existed in 3600 B.C. SAMSUN, the largest Turkish city on the Black Sea, has roughly 332,000 residents. It is situated 200 miles northeast of Ankara, between the mouths of the Kizil and Yeöil r i v e r s. A m a j o r p o r t , S a m s u n

exports tobacco, wool, and cereals. The city also is a metropolitan hub for the outlying agricultural region. The Greeks first developed the city in the seventh century B.C., naming it Amisus. It was the most successful Milesian colony on the Black Sea, after Sinop, and thrived until the invasion and conquest of the Romans in 71 B.C. The Seljuk Turks named the city Samsun after taking it in the 12th century. The Turkish war of independence began here with the beginning of the organization of national resistance, on May 19, 1919. May 19 University, named for this date, opened here in 1975. Samsun has air, rail, and road connections to other Turkish cities.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Aside from Russia, Turkey is the largest country in Europe. Its 296,185 square miles lie between the Aegean, Black and Mediterranean Seas. It stretches about 950 miles from west to east and 400 miles north to south. Thrace, the European portion of Turkey, ends at the Bosphorus Strait, and across it, Anatolia—and Asia—begin. Anatolia is a high plateau bounded on the north by the Pontic Mou ntain s, the Taur us Mountains on the south, and stretching to the peak of Mount Ararat (nearly 17,000 feet) among the Caucasus Mountains in the east. Mountains ranges give way to narrow coastal plains on the northeast and south, and to treeless valleys between rolling hills and low mountains in the center. The climate varies a great deal across Turkey. Precipitation is highest on the Black Sea where, in Rize, an average of 98 inches of rain falls each year. Ankara averages only 14 inches (chiefly accumulating from November to May) and Antalya on the south coast gets about 28 inches. 605

Turkey Istanbul has an average of 25 inches of annual precipitation. The plateau region has hot, very dry summers where temperatures in July range from the mid-70s to the low 90s. The skies are almost always clear and cloudless during the day and nights are cool. Winters in this region are generally windy and cold (the mean temperature for January is 30°F). Around the Marmara Sea and Istanbul, the average temperature in July is 83°F and 35°F in January. The south coast has long summers that are often hot and humid both night and day in the midsummer months (average temperature in mid-August is 94°F), but very pleasant in spring and autumn. Winters in the south are usually fairly mild. The north coast Black Sea region tends to have cooler summers and warmer winters than the other coastal areas. Turkey’s variety of climates allow for the production of a large diversity of crops from subtropical bananas, figs, tobacco, cotton and citrus fruits to cereal grains on the plateau and tea on the wet Black Sea coast.

Population According to the 1997 census, Turkey’s population has reached over 62.6 million with an annual growth rate of 1.2%. If current conditions persist, the population will double in 33 years. Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara are Turkey’s largest cities and incorporate nearly a third of the country’s population. The growth rate of Istanbul is 5% per year and is indicative of the alarming pace of migration from village to city and from the east and southeast to southern and western cities. Cities are increasingly surrounded by squatter settlements that create great urban difficulties. The 1923 Lausanne Treaty helped define the nature of Turkish society. It gave a special status to three religious minorities in Turkey—Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Syriac Christians, and Jews, most of whose ancestors had been accepted as refugees by the Ottoman Empire in 606

Cities of the World 1492 after they were expelled from Spain. The Treaty, which Turkey still respects, defined all others in Turkey, the vast majority, simply as Muslims. It recognized neither ethnic nor sectarian divisions in this ethnically and religiously heterodox state. Over 99% of Turks are Muslims; the vast majority are Sunni, but there is a significant population of Turkish Alevis (whose beliefs are akin to those of Shia Muslims but whose religious practices are much less rigid), and among the Sunnis, a large number are attached to mystical Sufi brotherhoods. It is noticeable, especially in the large cities, how minimally the strictures of Islam affect the lives of some Turks. Many drink alcohol, do not restrict their diets and rarely, if ever, attend prayer. In the cities, women can be seen in attire that fully covers them, head to toe, walking alongside relatively scantily clad women wearing the latest in western fashions. Inhabitants of rural areas are much more conservative. The Islamist Refah party, whose popularity has been on the rise, is challenging Ataturk’s secularist ideal. The potential repercussions of this challenge are the subject of hot debate among the intelligentsia of Turkey. Despite the official nonrecognition of ethnic identity as a legitimate organizing principle, many Turkish citizens are becoming increasingly a wa r e o f t h e i r e t h n i c o r i g i n s. Recently, a myriad of private television and radio stations have carried vivid accounts of conflicts involving Muslims in Bosnia, Chechnya and Azerbaijan. This media coverage along with the reestablishment of ties with the Turkic peoples of the newly independent states in the Caucasus and Central Asia have contributed to the awakening in many Turks of long dormant feelings of connection to ancestral homelands. By some estimates, the population of the Turkish Republic at its inception included people from as many as 80 different ethnic backgrounds; but as the Republic’s founder Atat-

urk maintained, one and all are “Turks.” Turkish is the only official language, but some citizens continue also to speak the language of their ethnic origin. The government long insisted on the exclusive use of Turkish as a tool to build and unite the nation. Turks of Kurdish origin constitute Turkey’s largest ethnic and linguistic subgroup and number as many as twelve million. Turkey’s southeastern region is majority Kurdish, though more than half of the Kurds in Turkey now live outside of this area. Since 1984, the Southeast has been an area of great unrest due to clashes between Turkish government forces and the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), a separatist terrorist group seeking to establish an independent Kurdish state encompassing much of southeastern Turkey as well as parts of Iran, Iraq, and Syria.

History Mustafa Kemal, a Turkish World War I hero, later known as “Ataturk” or “Father of the Turks,” founded the Republic of Turkey in 1923 after the collapse of the 600year old Ottoman Empire. At its peak, the Ottoman Empire stretched from southern Spain and Morocco in the east to Saudi Arabia and Iran in the west, and almost to Vienna in the north. The Empire weakened over time as it failed to keep up with European social and technological developments and came under pressure from other powers. The rise of nationalism within the Empire impelled numerous groups to seek independence, leading to the Empire’s fragmentation. This process culminated in the Empire’s disastrous participation in World War I as a German ally. Defeated and shorn in the postwar settlements (Treaty of Sevres) of much of its former territory, parts of modern-day Turkey were occupied by forces of the victorious European states. Turkish nationalists, who rallied under Ataturk’s leadership, expelled invading Greek forces from Anatolia after a bitter war. They

Turkey

Cities of the World repudiated the Ottoman structure, and abolished the temporal and religious ruling institutions of the old Empire (the Sultanate and the Caliphate). In its place, Ataturk established a republic with secularism, nationalism, modernization and a European orientation as its guiding principles. Social, political, linguistic, and economic reforms and attitudes introduced by Ataturk before his death in 1938 continue to have strong influence in Turkey today. The Turkish Grand National Assembly, Turkey’s parliament, opened in 1920. Ataturk was its first speaker. The Turkish Republic was formally established in 1923. Ataturk announced the goals of “Peace at Home, Peace in the World,” a slogan which has defined Turkish foreign policy ever since. Turkey stayed neutral through much of World War II, entering on the Allied side shortly before the war ended. Demands by the Soviet Union for military bases in the Turkish Straits, combined with difficulties faced by Greece after World War II in quelling a Communist rebellion, prompted the U.S. to declare the Truman Doctrine in 1947. The doctrine enunciated American intentions to guarantee the security of Turkey and Greece and resulted in large-scale U.S. military and economic aid. Turkey joined the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) in 1952 after participating with United Nations forces in the Korean conflict.

Public Institutions One-party rule under Ataturk’s leadership gave way to multi-party democracy in 1950. Domestic political crises sparked military interventions in 1960, 1973, and 1980, but in each case the military returned power to civilians in a relatively short period of time. Civilian governments have ruled continuously since 1983. The present structure of the Turkish state was established by the military-sponsored 1982 Constitution,

which has been amended twice by civilian governments. There are executive and legislative branches, and an independent judiciary. There are more than 20 political parties today, 5 of which are represented in Parliament. Recent changes to the Constitution added 100 members to the previously 450-member Parliament, and lowered the minimum voting age from 20 to 18. Elections must be held at least every five years. A nonpartisan president serves one 7-year term. A constitutionally-mandated National Security Council, composed half of members of the Turkish General Staff and half of Cabinet ministers, advises the government on security issues. Turkey remains the world’s only secular democracy in a Muslim country. The government worked hard in the last year to update its commercial and economic legislation to European standards to prepare Turkey for greater integration with the European Union; a customs Union went into effect on January 1, 1996. Turkey is increasing its ties with the newly independent states of the former Soviet Union, especially those with a shared Turkic culture and history. Turkey continues to play an important role in efforts to resolve regional conflicts in Iraq, the Middle East, the Caucasus, the Balkans, and Cyprus. It has long been a NATO member, and lies astride what could become key pipeline routes to transfer oil and natural gas from the Caucasus a n d C e n t r a l A s i a t o We s t e r n markets.

Arts, Science and Education Turks maintain a high regard for the arts, both for their own traditional heritage and for creativity beyond their borders. While Istanbul is by far the more sophisticated city, Ankara enjoys an active cultural arena of its own. Ankara has eight state-owned theaters, one of which is dedicated to opera and ballet (and includes a modern dance company).

The state companies are energetic and creative given their tight budgets, and their performances are well worth the nominal fee for tickets. A number of private theaters offer other forms of entertainment. Both Ankara and Istanbul have annual performing arts festivals that host a great variety of artists, both local and from abroad. Istanbul’s International Festival of Culture and the Arts brings renowned artists from across the globe to perform in its many theaters. Ankara, Istanbul and Izmir each has a symphony orchestra that gives regular concerts. Turkish folk dancing and singing performances can be seen throughout the country. The numerous ethnicities in Turkey make for a colorful array of dances and songs. Each December brings a week-long festival in Konya where the Mevlevi order of dervishes, known as the “Whirling Dervishes,” twirl in long, white robes and hats to the ethereal music of the Turkish flute. The Ankara and Izmir TurkishAmerican Associations (TAAs) schedule cultural presentations by American and Turkish artists as well as lectures, tours, hobby clubs, discussion groups, and film showings. Of special interest among the activities carried on by other binational cultural centers in Ankara is the French Cine Club, which regularly screens recent French films. The British, German, and Italian cultural centers also sponsor concerts, lectures, and performances by national artists. Museums, binational centers, and galleries hold art exhibits in major cities. Archeological excavations are underway in various parts of Turkey. Gordion (within 100 kilometers of Ankara), Sardis, and Aphrodisias are among centers of archeological work on ruins dating from Hittite through Ottoman times. Among these enticing sites are Ephesus (Efes), Bergama, and Troy in Western Turkey. Turkey has made great strides in establishing a modern educational 607

Turkey

Cities of the World

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Bridge over Bosphorus Straits and Istanbul

system since the Ottoman religious school system was abolished in the early years of the republic. Primary and secondary public education is free, coeducational, and compulsory between ages seven and 12. In the large cities, the system offers primary, secondary, and university education, but some villages still lack even a primary school. Most major cities have private secondary schools with curriculums in English, French, or German. The adult literacy rate in Turkey is about 85%. Turkey has 54 universities and a number of technical schools. The first private university, Bilkent University, was established in 1986 using English as its medium. Both Baskent University of Ankara and Koc University in Istanbul were established in 1993 and are also in English. Admission to universities is based on competitive examinations. As in many countries, chil608

dren of upper and middle-class families more frequently receive the secondary school education necessary to pass university entrance examinations. Ankara University, Hacettepe University, Middle East Technical University (METU), Gazi University, Bilkent University, and Baskent University, all in Ankara, offer degrees in a broad range of fields including the humanities, science, engineering and, at Ankara University, agriculture. Several offer degrees in medicine. Istanbul has seven major universities. The most prominent are Istanbul University and Istanbul Technical University, Koc University (noted above), and Bogazici (Bosphorus) University, the oldest English-medium university, established in 1971 when the former Robert College was turned over to the Turkish government. USIA recently

has granted money to Bogazici to establish a J. William Fulbright Chair of American Studies. To facilitate the success of this program, Bogazici will be given an extensive American Studies library collection. Robert College continues as a separate, now secondary, institution supported by the U.S. government and private sources.

Commerce and Industry From the establishment of the republic until the early 1980s, Turkey had an insulated, state-directed economy. The early 1980’s, however, brought an economic turnaround based on increased reliance on market forces, export-led development, lower taxes, integration with the world economy, and privatization. These reforms gave Turkey the highest average annual growth rates over the past decade of any OECD country.

Turkey

Cities of the World As the economy recorded impressive gains, however, its perennial economic problems—large public sector deficits and high inflation—continued to worsen. By 1994, Turkey was in an economic crisis: 150% inflation, high unemployment, and a 6% drop in GNP. After 13 straight years of growth, the private and public sectors put investments on hold. The government was forced to implement an economic austerity program. The resulting currency depreciation boosted exports and produced a healthy current account surplus. Turkey had no problem meeting its substantial foreign debt payments in 1994, though at the cost of a spiraling domestic debt burden.

56% of GNP, up by over 10% since 1994.

Turkey’s effort to implement structural reform measures has been only partially successful. Steps such as privatization of money-losing state enterprises, improved efficiency of tax collection, and streamlining of the social security system are necessary to alleviate pressure on the state budget and promote stable and sustainable growth.

The Turkish government is encouraging foreign companies to invest in the power sector. Electrical energy demand in Turkey is also growing rapidly. The government estimates that electricity consumption was about 140 billion kw/h in 2001 and expects that usage to double by 2010. Turkey will require approximately $3-$4 billion in annual investment to increase its current installed power generation capacity of 28,000 megawatts to 80,000 MW, which the government predicts it will need by 2020.

In December 1999, Turkey received a $4 billion loan from the International Monetary Fund to begin programs for disinflation and structural reform. Inflation dropped from 69 to 39% as a result of these actions. However, delays on key structural reforms, particularly in the banking sector, eroded market confidence.

Agriculture employs 38% of the labor force in the production of crops such as grains, cotton, hazelnuts, tobacco, fruits and vegetables. Turkey is unusual in that it is not only basically self-sufficient in food, but it is able to export as well. It is an important market for U.S. tobacco, soybeans and soybean products, rice, wood logs, cotton for quality blue denim, tallow for making soap, and breeding and feeder cattle. The best commercial prospects for U.S. exporters and investors are in energy, telecommunications, environment, transport and textiles.

The future is also bright for suppliers of autogeneration, transmission and distribution, and renewable energy technology.

Turkey’s long-term potential, however, is bright. Its dynamic private sector and the customs union with the European Union (EU) are powerful forces for growth. The fundamentals that made Turkey the fastest-growing country in the OECD during the 1980’s have not changed and, in many respects, have even improved.

In 1991, a Ministry of Environment was established increasing the attention paid to environmental issues. New regulations regarding sewage, medical waste and power plant emissions, among others, will add to the growth of this sector. Major projects are under development for air quality control, solid waste disposal, and municipal waste water treatment and water provision.

Agriculture accounted for 15% of GNP in 1999. Its output was essentially unchanged from 1993. Industry is responsible for about 29% of GNP while services accounted for

The textile sector is Turkey’s largest manufacturing industry and its largest export sector. Sales in western Europe—its most important market—have been limited by quo-

tas. These restrictions are to be removed under the customs union that came into effect in January, 1996. The global phaseout of textile quotas called for in the Uruguay Round also increases the potential of this sector. Projects to expand and modernize are already underway. Other principal growth sectors are tourism, automobiles and electronics.

Transportation Local The cardinal rules of safety to survive Turkish driving are: drive very defensively, avoid driving at night, and never let emotions affect what you do. Turkey’s main highways are generally well-paved and properly maintained. However, there are traffic hazards such as slow moving farm equipment and animals, overloaded trucks, buses, and cars passing on hills, and vehicle repairs made on the roadway. When driving in Turkey’s countryside, it is wise to expect the unexpected. The construction of new super highways on some frequently traveled routes (e.g., from Ankara to Istanbul), has improved cross-country driving considerably. Winter snows and ice require caution in city and highway driving, and even a light rain can cause surfaces to become extremely slippery. Traffic moves on the right. Turkey uses the same international system of road signs as in the rest of Europe. City streets are crowded with all sorts of vehicles. Streets are narrow and traffic congestion is an increasing problem, especially in Istanbul and Ankara. Although traffic moves on the right, “dolmuses” (shared taxis traveling set routes), regular taxis, and often others, too, do not always observe this rule or other traffic regulations such as red lights or one-way roads. This eccentricity can be confusing and dangerous. In the highly congested city of Istanbul, a high percentage of traffic-

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Turkey related deaths are pedestrians. The highest risk group for pedestrians is children and adolescents-totaling about 40%. Statistics released by the Istanbul Traffic Police, for example, indicate that evening rush hour (5-8 p.m.) is the most dangerous time on local highways. Not surprisingly, it is also the time of day when drivers are the least attentive. In 1995, Ankara and Istanbul provinces accounted for almost half of the total vehicle accidents in Turkey; Ankara 43,517, Istanbul 74,905, countrywide total 233,803. 1996 figures are even higher with 156,000 accidents in the first six months. A number of defensive measures can and should be taken to increase the odds in your favor for accidentfree driving: Always wear seat belts. Children should ride in the back seat with seat belts on and/or in a child safety seat. Drive defensively, defensively, defensively. Dusk is a particularly dangerous time on intercity highways because most drivers delay turning on their headlights until well after dark. Oncoming traffic can be very difficult to see. Don’t be afraid to use your horn to get the attention of pedestrian’s and other drivers. Use four-way flashers to warn drivers behind of slowed/blocked traffic to avoid being hit from behind. Watch out for trucks and buses that take the right-of-way without signaling, whether they are entitled to it or not. During rain and snowstorms, drivers must be extremely attentive and situationally aware. Accidents increase dramatically during storms and particularly at night.

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Cities of the World Pay particular attention to all of the following which are common in Ankara, Istanbul and others parts of the country:

Oncoming drivers who play inscrutable light games, flashing and flashing whether you have your “brights” on or not.

Passing on the right and cutting in front of other vehicles from the right side.

Tire-shredding potholes.

Unexpected stops or turns without signaling, for no apparent reason and stopping in unexpected locations to pick up or let off passengers by cars, buses and trucks, including main highway entrance ramps, intersections, and along major highways. Pedestrians seemingly completely oblivious to oncoming traffic who continue to walk or run in front of vehicles to cross streets and main highways. Trucks parked at night without lights on the highway rather than on the side of the road. Disabled vehicles parked without warning signs. Tractors, horse carts and farm vehicles traveling without lights at slow speed on highways. In the countryside, the use of stones rather than warning signs to mark accidents, breakdowns, and road work. Road surfaces that are much smoother and provide less traction than normal. Vehicles backing up (in reverse) on exit ramps and on main highways. Animals on highways. In the countryside, watch for herds of sheep, goats and other animals on roads. Drivers that drive in the middle of the road and yield to no one. Drivers that overtake on blind curves. At night, cars without lights or lights missing.

Tailgating drivers. Drivers that attempt to pass while you are passing another vehicle. Unmarked intersections (i.e., no stop signs), primary road has right of way, but proceed with caution. Watch for temporary checkpoints and traffic stops particularly at night. These are usually set up for one of three reasons: (1) routine license and registration checks, (2) during times of high terrorist threat, to watch for certain individuals, (3) DWI checks, which are normally done late at night and on weekends in areas with restaurants and clubs. Often, vehicles with diplomatic, consular or Turkish General Staff (TGS) license plates will be waved through once the police see that a foreigner is driving. In case you are stopped, be prepared to show your Turkish identification card or passport and U.S. driver’s license and vehicle registration. (Note: If you are involved in an accident—even when not found at fault—a Breathalyzer or blood test is almost always mandatory. If you are not considered responsible for the accident, positive test results will not be used against you by the police. However, they may be used by an insurance company as grounds to deny an accident claim.) The unofficial “protocol” for military and Jandarma checkpoints in the eastern provinces is to turn on the vehicle’s inside lights and dim the h e a dl i g h t s w h i l e s t o pp i n g f o r inspection. Roll down the driver’s side window in vehicles with tinted glass. This makes it easier for soldiers to safely identify and check the vehicle and its occupants. During this type of inspection, remain calm, do not make any quick movements and obey instructions.

Turkey

Cities of the World You should always have your vehicle registration, insurance policy, and driver’s license (or copies) in your car. If there is an accident, you will need all three. Vehicle Equipment A first-aid kit and a reflective warning triangle are mandatory in all vehicles. You may want to carry: a fire extinguisher, locking gas cap, an inexpensive camera with flash to document accidents, chalk to mark accident scenes, tow rope or cable, jumper cables, snow chains (required on some roads and bridges during storms), special reflective tape inside the trunk lid (or rear hatch) and on door jams that can be illuminated by approaching vehicles, PTT Jetons and phonecards for telephone calls, spare directional and headlamp bulbs. Increased Driver Awareness during Ramadan The Moslem holy month of Ramadan is celebrated in Turkey between the months of January and February. During Ramadan, many people fast between the hours of sunrise and sunset. The fast includes not taking food, water, tea/ coffee, and no smoking. This temporary lack of food and stimulants while fasting during Ramadan has in the past had a deleterious effect on levels of alertness, particularly for persons driving trucks, buses, taxis and cars. Consequently, it is important for all employees and family members to be particularly aware of this potential danger and alert to other drivers. Practice defensive driving, particularly during this month of the year. The holidays or “Bayrams” that follow Ramadan result in a dramatic increase in intercity vacation traffic and the highest accident rates of the year. Here’s a taxi safety tip: Always ride in the rear of a taxi, never in the front. In the event of an accident, the risk of serious injury is generally reduced by more than 50%. Please note that the following are English approximations of Turkish.

Important Road Signs Dur . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop Tek yon . . . . . . . . . One way Girilmez . . . . . . . . No entry (in general) Tasit Giremez. . . . No vehicle entry Giris . . . . . . . . . . . Entrance Cikis . . . . . . . . . . . Exit Park yapilmaz/ edilmez . . . . . . . No parking Parketmek yasaktir . . . . . . . Sehir merkezi. . . . Arac cikabilir . . . . Askeri bolge . . . . . Hastane . . . . . . . . Yaya gecidi . . . . . . Tirmanma seridi .

Yol calismasi . . . . Yol tamiri . . . . . . . Yol yapimi . . . . . . Servis Yolu . . . . . .

No parking City center Vehicles exiting Military Zone Hospital Pedestrian Crossing Climbing Lane (on hills for slower vehicles) Road work Road repair Road construction Temporary road (detour)

Agir Tasitlar Sagdan gidiniz. . Trucks use right lane Dinlenme Alani . . Rest area Servis Aiani . . . . . Service area Uzun arac. . . . . . . Long vehicle Tirmanma sagdan Slower vehicles use right lane TEM “Tem Oto Yolu” . . . . . . . . . . Transit European Motorway (Turkish Interstate) AS. iZ . . . . . . . . . . Military Police (Askeri inzibat) Key Motoring Terms Benzin . . . . . . . . . Gas/petrol Kursunsuz . . . . . . Lead free gas Mazot/motorin . . . Diesel Tehlikeli Madde . . Dangerous materials (propane, gas, etc.) Lastikci. . . . . . . . . Tire repair Sanayi bolgesi . . . Repair shop zone Otogar. . . . . . . . . . Bus station Kar . . . . . . . . . . . . Snow Buz . . . . . . . . . . . . Ice Kaza raporu . . . . . Accident Report Kismet . . . . . . . . . Fate

Allah korusun . . . .May God protect me (sign on many trucks) Dikkatsiz . . . . . . . .Careless Duzensiz . . . . . . . .Disorder/erratic

Cities have municipal bus systems that are cheap and extensive but do not necessarily adhere to any set schedule. Dolmuses and minibuses also run along bus routes for a slightly higher fee. Taxis are plentiful, convenient and metered. Dolmus and taxi fares are fixed.

Regional The Turkish State Railways provides rail service to many points within Turkey and has routes connecting to Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Direct rail service is offered from major European cities to Istanbul. Railway service is usually slower than bus service, but dining and sleeping cars on domestic lines help make the trip comfortable. Delta Airlines provides regular passenger and freight services to Istanbul. Turkish Airlines (THY) flies to many points in Turkey, Europe and the Middle East with daily flights connecting Istanbul, Ankara and Adana. The airport in Istanbul is the country’s primary international airport. Antalya’s airport is also a hub, especially for tourist groups in the summer. More than 20 airlines connect Turkey with all parts of the world. Turkish Maritime Lines provides ferry service for passengers and automobiles between Europe and Asia in Istanbul (to cross the Bosphorus) and at Canakkale (to cross the Dardanelles). Turkish Maritime Lines also provides service to Adriatic, Aegean and Mediterranean Sea ports. There is a ferry that travels from Venice to Izmir.

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Communications Telephone and Telegraph The lines and service are generally very good but occasionally outages do occur in inclement weather. Calls to the U.S. can be placed using AT&T, MCI or Sprint phone cards. Calls to the U.S. are currently about $5.00 for the first minute, $1.59 every minute thereafter using AT&T, or about $1.70 a minute if placed directly through local PTT with no initial connection charge. Call-back services are also available. Figures shown are based on weekday rates and, as in the U.S., weeknight and weekend rates are considerably cheaper. Calls to other countries besides the U.S. are cheaper using the local PTT than U.S. companies.

Radio and TV Both privately-owned and stateowned radio and television stations broadcast in Turkey. Turkish Radio and Television (TRT, state-owned) operates four radio and five television networks. Most of the population, however, tunes into the halfdozen most popular, privatelyowned television channels. There are at least 72 FM radio stations and about 635 TV stations operating in Turkey. Eight of the TV channels are nationally-televised networks. Cable television is also available and broadcasts several foreign channels including BBC, CNN International, Eurosport, and German, Italian and French stations. Some private radio stations are owned by newspapers, some by businessmen. These stations broadcast an assortment of formats, from Turkish and western pop to classical. Voice of America and BBC radio can be heard in most of Turkey via short- and medium-wave bands. VOA Europe programs are broadcast on an FM station in Istanbul 24 hours a day. TV channels operate on the European standard of 625 lines. Color system is PAL.

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Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals Ankara, Istanbul and Izmir have many shops selling foreign news publications including the International Herald Tribune, Time, and Newsweek. Several general-interest U.S. magazines, as well as many British, French, German, and Italian publications are widely sold. The Turkish Daily News, weekly Probe, and weekly Briefing are published in English and are available in major Turkish cities. Ankara has Turkish government libraries and American, British, French, German and Italian government cultural services which are open to the public. USIS in Ankara has a library as does USIS in Istanbul. Istanbul also has several foreign cultural centers.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities Turkish hospitals vary greatly. The private, new hospitals in Ankara have the most modern facilities and equipment.

Community Health Bottled spring water is available in restaurants and grocery stores. Tap water should be boiled for three minutes after filtering to remove particulate matter. Local wine, bottled soda, fruit juice and beer are considered safe to drink. Most local dairy products, including milk, yogurt, and cheese are safe to consume; however, care must be taken when purchasing perishable products from local shops as many do not have adequate refrigeration. Locally-produced beef, lamb, and poultry can be of good quality, but should be purchased from refrigerator-equipped, sanitary shops and cooked thoroughly before eaten. In smaller towns lamb may be the only meat available. Fresh fish and seafood are available in major cities in winter but difficult to find in summer months except by the sea. Refrigerated transport of fish may

be unreliable in the summer. Fresh vegetables and fruits are excellent, but should be washed thoroughly and soaked in a mixture of water and bleach prior to eating raw. Raw salads in local restaurants should be avoided. Turkish cuisine is excellent and should be enjoyed during a tour in Turkey. In the larger cities restaurants offer both international and local specialties. New arrivals often experience mild stomach upsets before adjusting to local conditions; and even old-timers have periodic stomach problems, especially during the warmer months.

Preventive Measures Tuberculosis does not pose a risk in Turkey, but child care providers should be screened with a chest xray before they are e mployed. Rabies is prevalent in Turkey and people are cautioned against handling stray animals. If bitten, a post-exposure rabies vaccination is given. Recommended immunizations for adults and children include typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A, and hepatitis B; it is advised that children have all the recommended childhood immunizations. Immunizations should be obtained prior to arrival. Air pollution is a problem in Ankara and Istanbul, but is more pronounced in Istanbul. Ankara’s air problems have decreased significantly since the introduction of natu r a l g a s ; h o w e v e r, i n c r e a s e d vehicular pollution and the natural bowl configuration of the city, still bring a large number of poor air quality days. Most complaints about irritating air quality in Ankara regard the burning of trash within residential areas and the constantly dry, dusty environment. Istanbul has a more serious air pollution problem that is the worst in winter. The pollution can constitute a health hazard, especially to children, smokers, and those with chronic respiratory disorders. Sulfur dioxide levels often far exceed

Turkey

Cities of the World healthy limits established by the World Health Organization.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties A passport and visa are required. Holders of all types of passports can purchase a 90-day sticker visa at the port of entry for $45, if they are traveling to Turkey as tourists. For further information, travelers in the U.S. may contact the Embassy of the Republic of Turkey at 2525 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone: (202) 6126700, or the Turkish consulates general in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, or New York. Information may also be found at Internet address http://www.turkey.org. Overseas, travelers may contact a Turkish embassy or consulate. Holders of official and diplomatic passports on official business must obtain a visa from a Turkish embassy or consulate before arrival in Turkey. Holders of official and diplomatic passports on private travel may receive a visa free of charge from a Turkish embassy or consulate, or obtain one upon arrival at the port of entry for $45. All those who are planning to stay more than three months for any purpose are required to obtain a visa from a Turkish embassy or consulate. Such travelers must also apply for a residence/work permit or Turkish ID card within the first month of their arrival in Turkey. For example, this would include anyone who plans to spend more than three months doing research, studying, or working in Turkey. All travelers are advised to obtain entry stamps at the first port of entry on the passport page containing their visa before transferring to domestic flights. Failure to obtain entry stamps at the port of entry has occasionally resulted in serious difficulties for travelers when they attempt to depart the country.

The PKK retains a residual presence in certain parts of southeastern Turkey. The following provinces are under a state of emergency: Hakkari, Sirnak, Tunceli, and Diyarbakir. The following additional areas are considered “sensitive areas” or one level below stateof-emergency status: Van, Siirt, Mus, Mardin, Batman, Bingol, and Bitlis. The southeast provinces of Adana, Adiyaman, Antakya (Hatay), Elazig, Gaziantep, Kahraman Maras, Kilis, Malatya, Icel, Osmaniye and Sanliufra are not under a heightened state of alert. Mount Ararat is a special military zone and access permission must be obtained from the Turkish Government. Visitors to the emergency and sensitive areas of southeastern Turkey are advised to travel only during daylight hours and on major highways. The Turkish Jandarma and police forces monitor checkpoints on roads throughout the southeastern region. Drivers and all passengers in the vehicle should be prepared to provide identification if stopped at a checkpoint. Travelers are cautioned not to accept letters, parcels, or other items from strangers for delivery either in or outside of Turkey. The PKK has attempted to use foreigners to deliver messages and packages in or outside of Turkey. If discovered, individuals could be arrested for aiding and abetting the PKK - a serious charge. Turkey customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Turkey of items such as antiquities (very broadly defined) or other important artwork and cultural artifacts. At the time of departure, travelers who purchase such items may be asked to present a receipt from the seller as well as the official museum export certificate required by law. Smuggling of large quantities of other items, such as cigarettes, out of Turkey is also a punishable offense. Contact the Embassy of Turkey in Washington or one of Turkey's consulates in the United States for specific informa-

tion regarding requirements.

customs

Americans living in or visiting Turkey are encouraged to register at the nearest Consular Office, at the U.S. Embassy in Ankara, the U.S. consulates in Istanbul or Adana, or the Consular Agency in Izmir. Updated information on travel and security within Turkey is available w h i l e r e g i s t e r i n g, o r o n t h e Embassy website at http:// www.usemb-ankara.org.tr. The U.S. Embassy in Ankara is at 110 Ataturk Boulevard, tel: (90)(312) 455-5555, fax (90)(312) 468-6131. Visa information is available at (90)(312) 468-6110. The Internet address is http:// www.usemb-ankara.org.tr. Nonemergency e-mail messages about consular matters may be sent to [email protected]. The U.S. Consulate in Istanbul is at 104-108 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi, tel: (90)(212) 251-3602, fax (90)(212) 252-7851. Istanbul-specific information can also be accessed via the Consulate's website h t t p : / / w w w. u s c o n s u l a t e - i s t a n bul.org.tr. Non-emergency e-mail messages about consular matters may be sent to [email protected]. The U.S. Consulate in Adana is at the corner of Vali Yolu and Ataturk Caddesi, tel: (90)(322) 459-1551, fax (90)(322) 457-6591. The U.S. Consular Agent in Izmir is at Kazim Dirik Caddesi 13/8, Atabay Is Merkezi, Daire 805, Pasaport, Izmir, 35210, tel: (90)(232) 441-0072/2203, fax (90)(232) 4412373. A variety of information on visa procedures, American citizen services, road safety, etc. is also available on the mission's web site, http://www.usemb-ankara.org.tr.

Social Customs & Laws Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the United States for similar offenses. Persons v i o l a t i n g Tu r k e y ' s l aw s, ev e n unknowingly, may be expelled,

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arrested, or imprisoned. Penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Turkey are strict and convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines. Below are some of the laws foreign travelers should be aware of: Insulting the State: It is illegal to show disrespect to the name or image of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the modern Turkish Republic, or to insult the Turkish government, flag, or security forces. Proselytizing: Although there is no specific law against proselytizing, some activities can lead to arrest under laws that regulate expression, educational institutions, and religious meetings. The Department of State's Annual Report on International Religious Freedom contains additional information on religious freedom in Turkey. The report is available on the Department's website, http:// www.state.gov. Cultural Artifacts: Turkish law has a broad definition of “antiquities” and makes it a crime to remove any from the country. Offenders are prosecuted. Under Turkish law, all historic sites such as fortresses, castles and ruins, and everything in them or on the grounds or in the water, are the property of the Turkish government. While many sites do not have signs cautioning the unwary, official silence does not mean official consent. One may buy certain antiquities, but only from authorized dealers who have been issued a certificate by a museum for each item which they are authorized to sell. If one has acquired a possible antiquity without having obtained the necessary certificate, competent museum personnel should evaluate it before its removal from Turkey.

Pets Pets may be brought into Turkey without quarantine provided they have certificates showing inoculation against rabies within the past six months, and freedom of commu614

nicable disease within 48 hours of the time of departure for Turkey. These documents should be prepared by a veterinarian, notarized by a notary public in the country in which the veterinarian is authorized to practice, and authenticated at a Turkish embassy or consulate.

during the past year the rate of inflation has been around 90%. The exchange rate is approximately 1,391,946.77 TRL to US$1.

Some people have found it difficult to keep dogs as pets in Ankara and Istanbul. Apartment living presents obvious difficulties, and it is unwise to allow a dog to run free in the streets. The city authorities periodically round up, poison or shoot stray a nim als, som e times incl udi ng licensed animals running free at the time.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Turkey uses the metric system.

Turkey observes both civil and religious holidays. While dates for civil holidays are determined by the Gregorian calendar, religious holidays are set by the Muslim/lunar calendar, resulting in observance on different days each year.

Local banks offer checking and savings accounts and exchange facilities, but they are not often used by American’s because of the complexity of local banking laws Travelers checks are acceptable in Turkey and in all nearby countries but sometimes difficult to cash. Turkish lira (TRL), the official unit of currency, is used for purchasing goods and services on the Turkish economy.

Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year’s Day Apr. 23. . . . . . . . . . National Sovereignty and Children’s Day (Milli Egemenlik ve Cocuk Bayrami) May 19 . . . . . . . . . Ataturk Memorial Youth and Sports Day (Ataturk’u Anma Genclik ve Spor Bayrami) Aug. 30 . . . . . . . . . Victory Day (Zafer Bayrami) Oct. 29. . . . . . . . . . Anniversary of the Founding of the Turkish Republic (Cumhuriyet Bayrami) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ramazan Bayrami (Ramadan begins)* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kurban Bayrami (Ramadan ends)* *variable

Transfer of Turkish lira from one part of Turkey to another is easily done using Turkish postal money orders. Most banks also are able to transfer funds electronically.

RECOMMENDED READING

The rate of exchange for the Turkish lira has fluctuated greatly throughout the past several years;

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e

Disaster Preparedness Several major earthquake fault lines cross Turkey. A number of Turkish cities including Istanbul, Izmir, and Erzincan lie on or near fault lines, making these areas particularly vulnerable to earthquakes. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Management Agency (FEMA) at http://www.fema.gov. Detailed information on Turkey's earthquake fault lines is available from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) at http:// www.usgs.gov.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Turkey

Cities of the World Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications.

Fodor’s Turkey. New York: David McKay, latest edition.

Ottoman Anatolia and the End of the Empire. 1983.

History/Foreign Policy/Travel Akurgal, Ekrem. Ancient Civilizations and Ruins of Turkey. 1985.

Fuller, Gr aham E. and Ian O. Lesser, eds. Turkey’s New Geopolitics: From the Balkans to Western China. Boulder: Westview Press, 1993.

McDonogh, Bernard. Blue Guide Turkey, The Aegean and Mediterranean Coasts. 1990.

Alexa ndris, Alexis. The Gr ee k Minority of Istanbul and GreekTurkish Relations, 1918-1974. Athens: Center for Asia Minor Studies, 1983. And, Metin. A History of Theatre and Popular Entertainment in Turkey. Ankara: Forum Yayinlari, 1964. Bahceli, Tozun. Greek-Turkish Relations Since 1955. Boulder: Westview Press, 1990. Bean, George E. Aegean Turkey. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989. ———. Lycian Turkey. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989. ———. Turkey Beyond the Meander. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989. ———. Turkey’s Southern Shore. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1989. Berlitz. The Berlitz Travellers Guide to Turkey. 1993. Blake, Everett C. and Anna G. Edmonds. Biblical Sites in Turkey, 4th ed. Istanbul: Redhouse Press, 1990.

Gunter, Michael M. The Kurds in Turkey: A Political Dilemma. Boulder: Westview Press, 1990. Heper, Metin and Jacob M. Landau, eds. Political Parties and Democracy in Turkey. New York: I.G. Tauris & Co., 1991. Hershlag, Z.Y. The Contemporary Turkish Economy. New York: Routledge, 1988. Inalcik, Halil. The Ottoman Empire. 1973. Itzkowitz, Norman. The Ottoman Empire and Islamic Tradition. 1973. Kinross, Lord. Ataturk: A Biography of Mustafa Kemal, Father of Modern Turkey. London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1965. Kinross, Lord. The Ottoman Centuries: The Rise and Fall of the Turkish Empire. New York: Morrow Quill Paperbacks, 1979. Kostof, Spiro. Caves of God: Cappadocia and Its Churches. New York: Oxford University Press, 1989.

Morris, Roderick Conway. Jem: Memoirs of an Ottoman Secret Agent. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1988. Nagel’s Encyclopedia Guide: Turkey. Lincolnwood, IL: NTC Publishing Group, 1987. Olson, Robert. The Emergence of Kurdish Nationalism and the Sheikh Said Rebellion, 18801925. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1989. Orga, Irfan. Portrait of a Turkish Family. New York: Macmillan, 1957. Renda, Gunsel, and C. Max Kortepeter, eds. The Transformation of Turkish Culture. Princeton: Kingston Press, 1986. Robins, Philip. Turkey and the Middle East. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1991. Rustow, Dankwart A. Turkey’s Forgotten Ally. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1987. Settle, Mary Lee. Turkish Reflections, A Biography of a Place. New York: Prentice Hall, 1991. Stark, Freya. Ionia, A Quest, 1954; The Lycian Shore, 1956; Alexander’s Path from Caria to Cilicia, 1958; and, Gateways and Caravans: A Portrait of Turkey, 1971.

Brosnahan, Tom. Turkey, A Travel Survival Kit, 3rd ed. 1990.

Kuniholm, Bruce. The Origins of the Cold War in the Near East. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1980.

Bugra, Ayse. State and Business in Modern Turkey. Albany: State University of New York, 1994.

Landau, Jacob M. Ataturk and the Modernization of Turkey. Boulder: Westview Press, 1984.

Constas, Dimitri, ed. The GreekTurkish Conflict in the 1990s: Domestic and External Influences. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1991.

Lawlor, Eric. Looking for Osman. New York: Vintage Departures, 1993.

Stearns, Monteagle. Entangled Allies: U.S. Policy Toward Greece, Turkey and Cyprus. New York: Council on Foreign Relations Press, 1992.

Lewis, Bernard. The Emergence of Modern Turkey. London: Oxford University Press, 1961.

Stirling, Paul. Turkish Village. London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1965.

Erim, Kenan. Aphrodisias, The City of Venus Aphrodite. 1986.

Lloyd, Seton. Ancient Turkey: A Traveller’s History of Anatolia. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.

Sumner-Boyd, Hilary and John Freely. Strolling Through Istanbul, 4th ed. Istanbul: Redhouse Press, 1989.

Freely, John. The Companion Guide to Turkey. London: Collins, 1979.

McCarthy, Justin. Muslims and Minorities, The Population of

Turkey 1992 Traveller’s Guide. New York: Berlitz, 1992.

Dindi, Hasan, et al. Turkish Culture for Americans. Boulder, CO: International Concepts, Ltd.

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Turkey Young, George. Constantinople. New York: Barnes & Noble Books, 1992. Art/Literature/Fiction Acar, Belkis Balpinar. Kilim, Cicim, Zili, Sumak: Turkish Flatweaves. 1983. Atil, Esin. The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1987.

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Cities of the World Freely, Maureen. Life of the Party. 1984. fiction K emal, Yasar. trans., Edouard Roditi. Mehmet My Hawk. New York: Pantheon, 1961. fiction

Menemencioglu, Numan. Penguin Book of Turkish Verse. London: Penguin Books, 1978.

Kuran, Aptullah. Sinan, The Grand Old Master of Ottoman Architecture. 1987.

Rogers, J.M., ed. The Topkapi Saray Museum: Carpets; and, The Topkapi Saray Museum: The Treasury. Boston: Little, Brown and Co., 1987.

Macaulay, Rose. The Towers of Trebizond. 1956. fiction

Settle, Mary Lee. Blood Tie. 1977. fiction

UKRAINE Major Cities: Kiev, Kharkov, Odessa, Lviv Other Cities: Dnepropetrovsk, Donetsk, Kerch, Kherson, Kirovograd, Lutsk, Mukachovo, Nikolayev, Poltava, Sevastopol, Simferopol, Uzhgorod, Vinnitsa, Zaporozhye, Zhitomir

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2001 for Ukraine. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION A country whose slogan is “Ukraine has not yet died” might not seem the most uplifting destination, but do not let that deter you. The country rewards visitors with hospitable people, magnificent architecture and kilometers of gently rolling steppe. Ukraine is a major player in the region's economy, though for every smoggy industrial city there are dozens of villages with picket fences, duck ponds and overloaded horse carts, where time seems to stand still. Ukraine has its share of the thoroughly modern, but even the capital, Kiev, is replete with Gothic, Byzantine, and Baroque architec-

ture and art reminders of the many foreign overlords who have left their mark on the country. Nearly every city and town has its centuries-old cathedral, and many have open-air museums of folk architecture, caves stuffed with mummified monks, and exquisite mosaics wherever you look.

and Orthodox refugees. These people came to be known as Kazaks (Cossacks), a Turkic word meaning outlaw or adventurer. Ukrainian Cossacks eventually formed a state that was to a significant degree selfruling, but 20 years later the state was divided between Poland and Russia.

For decades, the Western World perceived Ukraine as simply a part of Russia. But borscht, painted eggs, and many of the famous Cossack dance traditions originated in Ukraine. Ukrainian history began with the rumble of hooves-Scythians dominated the steppes north of the Black Sea from the 7th to the 4th centuries B.C.E., initiating centuries of outside political and cultural domination. Following the Scythians, a series of invaders, including Ostrogoths, Huns, and the Turko-Iranian Khazars, ruled areas of present-day Ukraine.

Following WWI, and after prolonged fighting involving Russia, Poland, and various Ukrainian political and ethnic factions, Poland retained portions of western Ukraine and the Soviets took the rest. Ukraine officially became part of the U.S.S.R. in 1922.

The first people to unify and control the area for a long period were Scandinavians, known as the Rus. By the late 10th century, the city was the center of a unified state that stretched from the Volga west to the Danube and south to the Baltic. By the 15th century, the region became popular with runaway serfs

When Stalin took power in 1927, he made a test case out of Ukraine for his ideas about “harmful” nationalism. In 1932-33 he engineered a famine that killed as many as 7 million Ukrainians. Execution and deportation of intellectuals further depopulated the country. WWII brought further devastation and death, with 6 million perishing in the fighting between the Red Army and the German forces. Ukrainians are extremely proud of their country's long history. Since the late 19th century, Ukrainians have dreamed of a sovereign Ukrainian State, a dream that became a reality in the immediate aftermath 617

Ukraine of the failed Soviet coup of August 1991. In a referendum held December 1, 1991, the people of Ukraine endorsed independence. The U.S. recognized Ukraine's independence on December 25, 1991; and the first American Ambassador arrived in Kiev on June 8, 1992. Ukraine is a country in transition as it leaves behind its Communist past to build a new political and economic system and develops its links with Europe and the West.

MAJOR CITIES Kiev Kiev, a scenic city of some 2.5 million people situated on the Dnipro River, is the bustling capital of Ukraine. Ancient Kievan Rus' was a center of trade routes between the Baltic and the Mediterranean. The city of Kiev and the power of Kievan Rus' were destroyed in 1240 by Mongol invaders, and lands of the Kievan Rus' were divided among principalities located to the west and north: Galicia, Volynia, Muscovy, and later, Poland, Lithuania, and Russia. Once a powerful player on the European scene, Ukraine's fate has in modern times been decided in far-off capitals. As a result, modern Ukrainian history, for the most part, was defined by foreign occupation. Kiev suffered severely during World War 11 and the Stalinist era; many irreplaceable architectural and art treasures were destroyed and the city center systematically demolished. Extensive restoration has revived much of historical Kiev. The city hit the headlines in April 1986, when the nuclear reactor at nearby Chernobyl exploded. The prevailing winds spared the city any significant rise in background radiation levels. Produce in the local markets is inspected before being 618

Cities of the World sold. Daily radiation testing done by theU.S. and the Ukrainian Government does not reveal any elevated levels of background radiation in the city.

nian or Russian. The Russian Dramatic Theater features a repertoire of classics. There are also many musical concerts, ranging from classical to jazz and pop.

Despite repression, centuries of foreign domination, political turmoil, and ecological disaster, Ukraine's spirit and national identity have never died. On August 24, 1991, after the aborted coup in Moscow, Ukraine proclaimed its independence. As of early 2000, Ukraine has diplomatic relations with 163 countries, and Kiev hosts 92 Missions. News correspondents, business representatives, and students from all over the world reside in the capital. The flow of foreign tourists and official delegations is year round. The resident American community consists of Embassy personnel, business representatives, clergy, professors, Peace Corps volunteers, and students.

The modern center and remains of the old city are both on the hilly west, or right bank of the Dnipro River. The main street, the Khreshchatyk, runs along the bottom of a ravine toward the Dnipro. Running parallel about half-a-kilometer west, is Vulytsya Volodymyrska, the main street of the Old Kiev area. Woods and parks cover most of the western bank slopes along the Dnipro River. The capital's newer sections lie on the eastern bank. Large apartment developments and industrialized regions characterize this area.

Enthusiasts of art and architecture will have a field day in Kiev. The Cathedral of St. Sophia, where the princes of Kiev were crowned in the years of Kiev's grandeur, has intricate mosaics and frescoes dating back to the 11th century. The Cathedral of St. Michael's Monastery (built 1108-1113) has recently been rebuilt, after being destroyed by the Soviets. The Pecherska Laura, the Monastery of the Caves, a short bus or trolley ride from the center of town, has two 11th-century cathedrals on its grounds, in addition to its world-famous catacombs. Closer to the center of town stands the Golden Gate, a structure, which dates back to 1037. This recently refurbished fortification defined the western limits of the city in centuries past. Several blocks away stands the magnificent Cathedral of St. Volodymyr. Theater buffs will find much to choose from. Most performances are in Ukrainian or Russian. The renovated Kiev Opera House presents very good opera as well as a broad repertoire of ballets. The Kiev Young Theater is very popular and stages innovative plays in Ukrai-

Shopping in Kiev is always rewarding as a cross-cultural experience. Western products are increasingly available. Several state-run stores carry Ukrainian pottery, embroidery, and handicrafts. More expensive Ukrainian crafts are available throughout the city, in particular at stalls on Andrievskyj Uzviz, and at several of the churches and monastery souvenir shops. Quality and quantity vary from shop to shop. A growing number of supermarkets stock Western food, alcohol, clothing, beauty and health items and electrical appliances. Prices compare to those in the West, but stock availability is unpredictable. Careful advance preparation is necessary to ensure proper coordination of train, plane, and hotel reservations. Domestic rail and air services are relatively good. Tourist facilities and accommodations are limited outside major cities.

Utilities The two-pronged outlets are slightly smaller than general European outlets. Since electrical supplies are difficult to find, bring adapters and heavy-duty extension cords.

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Cities of the World Food The selection of food is more limited than in the U.S. However, most fruits, vegetables, and meats are available year round. Many Western-style minimarkets have opened in the last few years, where European brands predominate. Most minimarkets and neighborhood markets are small and carry a limited range of products making it necessary to visit multiple sites to complete your shopping. Euro Mart and Cash and Carry, are Ukraine's answer to warehouse shopping. Prices are reasonable, but supply can be erratic and is geared toward local tastes. Bulk purchasing of wine, beer, and sodas for entertainment makes Euro Mart and Cash and Carry an attractive alternative for Americans. Billa, an Austrian-owned supermarket, looks very much like a n y U. S. s u p e r m a r k e t a n d i s equipped with a butcher, baker, and fresh produce section. Local farmers' markets are a shopper's delight in spring, summer, and fall offering a range of fresh and dried fruits, fresh and marinated vegetables, meat, poultry, cheese, butter, sour cream, eggs, honey, nuts, home remedies, caviar, and flowers. Although Ukrainian produce is seasonal, imports make up a large part of produce for sale at markets that Westerners frequent. The meat is not aged and cuts differ from those in the West, but it is inspected and quite good. Local bread is good, inexpensive, and available twice daily at local bakeries. It is of heavier texture than in the U.S. and not sliced. Dairy products available in the markets are made from whole cream and rich in flavor. However, imported tetra packed milk, from skim to whole, is readily available.

Clothing Clothing needs for Kiev are similar to that needed in the northeastern U.S. Winters, however, are more severe and longer, and summers are shorter, slightly cooler, and less humid. Temperatures average 16°F

(-8°C) in midwinter and 87°17 (30°C) in midsummer. Although selection is limited and prices high, European/American-style clothes are available in local stores and through new foreign outlets such as Bennetton and Hugo Boss. Shoe repair is readily available and satisfactory. Local tailors also sew clothes for less money than you would pay in the U.S., although material selection and tailoring results vary. Everyone needs a warm coat with a hood or a separate warm hat, several pairs of woolen and waterproof gloves, and appropriate shoes. Bring a good supply of shoes and boots for all types of weather (tennis, dress shoes, rubber rainboots, and lined, thick-soled winter boots for children and adults). It is also helpful if most of your wardrobe is washable, as clothing soils easily in Kiev. Drycleaning is available locally. Most, but not all, fabrics can be processed. Suede and leather cleaning may not be available. Men: Both heavy and light topcoats are desirable for spring and fall. Warm waterproof gloves, overshoes, and sweaters are also necessary. Woolen suits worn in the U.S. are satisfactory for winter here, but most men may prefer heavier suits and sweater vests during the coolest months. Lighter weight suits are desirable for summer wear. Several pairs of good walking shoes, a good warm jacket, hat, sweaters, and durable washable apparel are recommended for casual wear. Women: Slacks, skirts, blouses, and sweaters are ordinary daily wear. Most Ukrainian women dress up rather than down. During fall and winter women wear woolen clothing of several weights. Synthetics and blends, preferably washable, are worn in summer. A raincoat with removable lining and a heavy wool or down coat are necessary; fur and sheepskin are both worn frequently. Thermal underwear, good walking shoes, boots, and warm comfortable

casual clothes should all be part of your basic wardrobe for Kiev. Children: Children need washable, sturdy, wool, corduroy, and other heavy clothing. A zippered nylon snowsuit is recommended.Waterproof boots with insulated foam lining, several pairs of waterproof mittens, long thermal underwear, both heavy- and lightweight pajamas, and snow pants all come in handy. Since children's clothing available locally is not of Western quality and limited in quantity, bring a good supply of clothing and shoes for children or plan on catalog shopping.

Supplies and Services Most basic services are available locally; however, the quality of service varies from poor to excellent depending on the kind of service requested and the business used. There are several good beauty shops, photo developers, and picture framing shops. Tailors and dressmakers are generally satisfactory. Shoe repair services are good. There are one or two English-speaking vets who will make house calls for reasonable fees. Auto service centers can handle most repairs and routine maintenance satisfactorily.

Domestic Help Employing a Ukrainian to help with the household, babysitting, and sometimes cooking is common. Payment and fees are negotiable and reasonably priced. Finding good housekeepers and babysitters may take time and perseverance. English-speaking help is hard to find. Cooks who know American cuisine are hard to find.

Religious Services The Ukrainian Orthodox Church and the Ukrainian Catholic Church hold regular services in Kiev. Catholics of the Byzantine Rite hold Divine Liturgy at two outdoor locations in the city. Roman Catholic Mass is celebrated in Polish, Ukrai619

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nian, Russian, and English in two churches downtown. The Baptist c o mm u n i t y a n d 3 S y n a g o g u e s (Orthodox congregations) in the Podil neighborhood and an Orthodox and a Reform congregation downtown also hold religious services. A variety of other churches also offer services: Assembly of God, the nondenominational Campus Crusade for Christ, Episcopalian, Interdenominational, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and the Salvation Army. Many of these churches offer English-language services.

Education The Kiev International School (an American institution) is a nonprofit, independent, coeducational day school that offers an educational program from prekindergarten (3-year-old class) through high school for students of all nationalities. It has a complete 4year secondary program. Advanced Placement (AP) courses accepted for university credit are offered at the high school level. A college counselor on staff will assist students as they prepare to enter a university. The school administers the ITBS, PSAT, AP, SAT I, and SAT II tests and is a certified ETS test site. The school year is divided into three terms: early September to mid December; early January to early April, and early April to mid-June. The school is governed by the Board of Directors of Quality Schools International, the membership of which is formed as set forth in the bylaws of Quality Schools International. An Advisory Board, composed of 6-10 who reside in Kiev, assists the school in its operation. The school operates with the approval of the Ukrainian Government. The school offers a performancebased, mastery learning educational program with a curriculum similar to that of U.S. public and private schools. Instruction, leading

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to individual mastery, takes advantage of small class sizes and the diverse educational backgrounds of the students. Instruction is in English. Ukrainian/Russian studies, Hindi studies, and French are a part of the curriculum. The 30 full-time and 9 part-time faculty members in the 1999-2000 school year included 21 U.S. citizens, 13 host-country nationals, and 5 of other nationalities. Enrollment at the opening of the 1999-2000 school year was 210 (prekindergarten through grade 12). Of the total, 20% were U.S. citizens, 24% were host-country nationals, and 56% were of other nationalities. The school rents two buildings, one for grades one through secondary that is an annex to a Ukrainian public school building. A second site for prekindergarten through 5-yearold kindergarten is 2 blocks away. Located on the east bank of the Dnipro River, Pechersk School offers the full range of International Baccalaureate Programs. The school received authorization from the International Baccalaureate (IB) Organization in November 1998 to officially participate in and offer the International Baccalaureate Middle Years Programs in grades 6 to 10. In May 1999, the International Baccalaureate Organization authorized the school to offer the prestigious IB Diploma Program, which has now been implemented in grades 11 and 12. IB Diploma graduates earn priority status at major universities throughout the world. The school is currently seeking official authorization for the IB Primary Years Program, which is being offered in prekindergarten through grade 5. The language of instruction is English. French, Russian, and Ukrainian are offered as foreign languages from kindergarten up. For American and Canadian students, the school offers the Preliminary Scholastic Aptitude Test (PSAT), the Scholastic Aptitude Test (SAT), and also prepares stu-

dents of any nationality for Tests of English as a Foreign Language (TOEFL). The school opened in 1995. The school is nonprofit and is governed by a Board of Governors with 6-10 current parents. The school has grown substantially since 1995 and now has 99 students. The school hosts 21 nationalities of which Americans comprise the largest single group with 27 students. The school has a well equipped science laboratory, a state-of-the-art library media center, assembly hall, modern computer laboratory, regular classrooms, and a special needs and ESL room. There are ample outdoor play and recreational areas and the school uses a full-size gymnasium in an adjacent Ukrainian school. All of the school's computers are networked and have access to a dedicated Internet line. The staff includes 15 fall time teachers and 10 part-time teachers, including 7 U.S. citizens, 6 Canadians, to host-country nationals, 2 South Africans, and 1 from Wales.

Special Educational Opportunities Few educational opportunities exist in Kiev through Ukrainian educational institutions, libraries, and traditional education channels. Private language and musical instruction is available.

Sports Popular spectator sports include international soccer at the Dynamo Stadium or at the Central Republic Stadium. At the Sports Palace you c a n s e e w r e s t l i n g, b o x i n g, i c e hockey, and ice skating. There are various sports clubs offering a wide variety of personal workout regimes, but clubs with Western equivalent facilities are very expensive. The Marine Security Guard Detachment hosts softball in the summer and fall months. Other small groups play volleyball and basketball at the International

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Potemkin steps up from the port of Odessa

School gymnasium. During the summer months sailing at the nearby Hydro Parkare is popular, as are river cruises along the Dnipro. The Kiev area also has excellent opportunities for jogging, cycling, hiking and cross-country skiing. Downhill skiing is possible during the winter months in the Carpathian Mountains in western Ukraine. Several ski trips are organized throughout the season. Bring all your own sports equipment and clothing, because at times these items may be difficult to find locally.

foot, on public transportation, or by boat on the Dnipro River. Cruises down the Dnipro River to towns such as Kaniv, where National Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko is buried, or longer cruises to the Black Sea and to the Mediterranean are available.

Innovative plays may be seen at the Ivan Franko Theater and the Kiev Youth Theater. The classics are performed at the Russian Dramatic Theater. The musical scene varies as well, from symphony concerts to jazz clubs and folk music.

Outside Kiev, favorite Ukrainian vacation spots include the Crimean Peninsula, which has picturesque mountains and a stunning coastline. Crimea's Yalta, in particular, attracts tourists to its beaches and historic sites. The beautiful Carpathian Mountains in western Ukraine are also a frequent travel destination. Accommodations vary, but are generally adequate.

Walking tours to the many architectural and historical landmarks are a good way to get a feel for the city. One essential stop is Babi Yar, the memorial to Kiev's Jews and other Ukrainians who were slaughtered by the Nazis during World War II. Visit Andriyivsky Uzviz, a cobble stone street lined with vendors of Ukrainian crafts, arts and souvenirs, which descends to Podil from St. Andrew's Church. Buildings on Andriyivsky Uzviz now house artist's studios, galleries, cafes, and theaters. This picturesque street is also the site of the annual spring Kiev Day festival in May. Flea mar-

Touring and Outdoor Activities

Entertainment

Kiev, with its churches, museums, art galleries, libraries, historic places and parks, is a sightseer's dream. The city can be explored by

Culturally, Kiev is a rich city. The Kiev Taras Shevchenko Opera House boasts a very good opera as well as a broad repertoire of ballets.

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

Odessa Opera House

kets also dot the city with treasures waiting to be found. The principal hotel restaurants and others offer ethnic Ukrainian cuisine. Many restaurants throughout the city also offer the full range of ethnic cuisine from Chinese to Mexican. Major hotels also have cafes, bars, and souvenir gifts hops. If you are wandering about the city you will find any number of cafes and bars to stop in for refreshments. There are few English-language books, including travel guides, available, so you are encouraged to bring your own. A Sunday reader's book club meets on a monthly basis to discuss books of mutual interest. Many also use AMAZON.com and other Internet services to purchase books.

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There are two movie theaters that show English films. With the aid of a satellite dish, viewing of CNN, BBC, Sky News, and other channels with English programming is possible.

Social Activities Ample opportunities exist in Kiev for making contact with the American community. Economic and commercial personnel can pursue their business contacts through the American Chamber of Commerce. The International Women's Club of Kiev (IWCK) offers numerous activities and opportunities for women from many nations to get acquainted. Social relationships with Ukrainian citizens are not difficult to establish, particularly if one speaks some Ukrainian or Russian. There is no prohibition on establishing social relationships with Ukrainian citizens. On the con-

trary, reaching out to make Ukrainian friends is encouraged.

Kharkov Kharkov is located east of Kiev near the Ukrainian border with Russia. Founded in 1656, Kharkov is one of Ukraine’s principal transportation centers. It is linked by railway with Ukraine’s other major cities and with the cities of other former Soviet republics. A modern highway system links Kharkov with Kiev and the rest of the country. Another highway connects the city with the Russian capital, Moscow. The city itself is served by a modern subway station. Kharkov has a well-developed in d u st r ia l b as e. I n d u s tr ie s i n Kharkov produce a wide variety of products, including machine tools, tractors, bicycles, steam turbines, locomotives, generators, and agricultural machinery. Some light

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Cities of the World industry exists in the city and is centered around the production of consumer goods and food processing. Many important educational institutions are located in Kharkov. The largest university in Kharkov is Gorky University. The city is also home to several research institutes and numerous agricultural, polytechnic, and engineering schools. During World War II, Kharkov was a major battleground between German and Soviet troops. As a result, most of the city was completely levelled. Kharkov was rebuilt after the war and resembles many major cities of the former Soviet Union. The city has block after block of concrete apartment buildings, large government buildings, and broad treelined streets. In 1991, Kharkov had a population of approximately 1,622,000, second only to Kiev.

Recreation and Entertainment Recreation in Kharkov is centered around tours of the city’s historical sites. Visitors are allowed to tour Kharkov’s many historical monuments. Two cathedrals, the Pokrovsky Cathedral and the Uspensky Cathedral, are open to visitors. The Uspensky Cathedral is easily recognizable by its beautiful bell tower and position atop a hill. Kharkov has two museums that are of interest to visitors. The Fine Arts Museum offers many fine examples of Ukrainian and Russian art. Also, Kharkov’s Historical Museum contains many fine exhibits that illustrate the city’s past. Both museums are easily accessible by tram or bus.

Odessa The city of Odessa, with a population of 1,104,000 (1991 est.), is located 275 miles (443 kilometers) south of Kiev. The city’s location on the Black Sea makes it one of Ukraine’s major ports. Odessa is a major transportation center with excellent railway connections to

other Ukrainian cities, as well as Moldova and Romania. The city, with its well-developed industrial base, produces consumer goods, machinery, fertilizers, paints, dyes, and machine tools. A large oil refinery is also located near Odessa.

Recreation and Entertainment Odessa was a cultural center during the 18th and 19th century. During World War II, the city was heavily damaged and many of its architectural treasures destroyed. Some of these structures have been rebuilt. Although Odessa’s beauty has faded over the years, the city still has much to offer. The city, with its beautiful sandy beaches, is a favorite resort area for tourists. Odessa has several museums, the most notable of which is an archaeological museum. Tourists also visit Odessa’s beautiful Opera House, which was constructed in 1809. The famed Russian composer and conductor, Pyotr Ilich Tchaikovsky, conducted an orchestra here. Outside of Odessa, a Greek Orthodox monastery with several catacombs built underneath is frequented by tourists.

Lviv The city of Lviv is one of the major cities in western Ukraine, The city’s name was changed from Lvov in 1992. Founded in the mid-13th century, Lviv has been attacked and occupied at various times in history by Poles, Cossacks, Swedes, Austrians, Russians, Germans, and Sovie t s. To d a y, Lviv is an administrative, cultural, and transportation center. The city is a major railroad connector for Kiev and other Ukrainian cities. Lviv has a large industrial base. Major industries in the city produce buses, bicycles, machinery, processed foods, and consumer goods. In 1991, Lviv had an estimated population of 803,000.

Recreation and Entertainment Lviv offers many opportunities for sight-seeing. One area of particular interest is Rinok Square, which contains Gothic- and Renaissance-style houses dating back to the 16th century. Many of these homes are elegant and in beautiful condition. Lviv has a rich religious heritage and many of the city’s churches are open to visitors. Lviv’s Roman Catholic Cathedral, constructed in 1270, contains many beautiful carvings, statues, and frescoes. The Church of the Assumption, with its exquisite icons and sculptures and a frieze of biblical scenes on one of its exterior walls, is one of Lviv’s most beautiful churches. Other churches worth a visit include the Armenian Cathedral, the Church of the Virgin of the Snows, and St. George’s Church, which is filled with many fine examples of Ukrainian Baroque art. In addition to churches, visitors also enjoy touring Lviv’s many interesting museums. Ukrainian folklore can be viewed at the Ethnographical and Handicraft Museum. Another museum, the Museum of Ukrainian Art, displays beautiful icons dating from the 14th to 18th centuries.

OTHER CITIES DNEPROPETROVSK is located in eastern Ukraine along the banks of the Dnieper River. The city was founded in 1793 and has developed into a major center for iron and steel manufacturing industries. Dnepropetrovsk’s industries also produce chemicals, plastics, footwear, clothing, food, agricultural machinery, and mining equipment. In 1989, the city had an estimated population of 1,179,000. The city of DONETSK is situated southeast of Dnepropetrovsk. Donetsk developed in the early 1900s as a coal mining and steel producing center. These industries are of primary importance today.

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Ukraine Several light industries have also developed in Donetsk. These industries produce processed foods and refrigerators. The city has several educational institutions and theaters. Donetsk’s population in 1983 was estimated at 1,055,000. Current population figures are unavailable. KERCH is located on the eastern side of the Crimean Peninsula. The city is very old, founded in the sixth century B.C. by the Greeks. Kerch developed into a major trading center. Today, the city’s location on the Sea of Azov has facilitated the growth of a profitable fishing industry. The city ’s popu lat ion was 162,000 in 1982. Current population figures are not available. Situated on the banks of the Dnieper River, KHERSON is one of Ukraine’s major shipbuilding centers. The city has other industries in addition to shipbuilding. These industries include an oil refinery and a textile processing plant. Kherson is also the home of several agricultural institutes. In 1989, Kherson had an estimated population of 355,000. KIROVOGRAD, with a population of 269,000 (1989 est.), is located in a fertile region of Ukraine. The city was founded in 1765 and has developed over the years into an agricultural center. Kirovograd also has a well-developed food processing industry. The city of LUTSK is located in northwestern Ukraine. Lutsk was founded in 1000 A.D. and has been controlled at various periods in history by Poland and Russia. The city has several industries which produce trucks, food, and scientific instruments. Vestiges of the city’s ancient past are evident, including three monasteries dating back to the 16th to 18th centuries. Lutsk had a population of 161,000 in 1983. Current population figures are unavailable.

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Cities of the World MUKACHOVO is a city whose origins can be traced back to 903 A.D. The city has a large industrial base. Industries in Mukachovo are centered on food processing and timber production. Mukachovo is a favorite tourist destination. Attractions in Mu k a ch ovo i nc l ude a R us s i an Orthodox church constructed of wood and a 14th century castle. The city had an estimated population of 84,000 in 1985. Current population figures are not available. NIKOLAYEV is a city whose location only 40 miles (65 kilometers) from the Black Sea has facilitated the creation of a large shipbuilding industry. Other industries have developed in Nikolayev. These industries produce consumer goods, construction machinery, and chemicals. Nikolayev was once an important Soviet naval base and today is one of Ukraine’s primary ports. The late st population estimate for Nikolayev was 480,000 in 1984. The origins of POLTAVA can be traced back to the eighth or ninth century. Poltava was the scene of an important battle in 1709 when Russian troops, under the command of Peter the Great, repelled an attack by a large Swedish army. The city was almost completely destroyed during World War II, but has been rebuilt. Today, the city is a processing center for the agricultural products grown near Poltava. Industries in Poltava produce leather goods, canned foods, textiles, machinery, and clothing. The city is the home of several agricultural and medical research institutes. Poltava is a modern city with several beautiful theaters and parks. The population of Poltava was estimated at 290,000 in 1983. Current population figures are unavailable. The city of SEVASTOPOL is located in the southwestern Crimean Peninsula. Sevastopol is one of Ukraine’s principal seaports and served as an important Soviet naval base for many years. The city was destroyed during the Crimean War of 1853–1856 and later during

World War II. The city has been rebuilt and is the home of thriving food processing and shipbuilding industries. Sevastopol’s many historical monuments, archaeological sites, and health resorts are of interest to visitors. The city’s Historical and Archaeological Museum of Khersones contains displays of Greek artifacts. Current population figures are unavailable. Northeast of Sevastopol is the city of SIMFEROPOL. Simferopol is one of the principal industrial centers on the Crimean Peninsula. Industries in the city produce cigarettes, wine, clothing, footwear, consumer goods, processed foods, and machine tools. The city is home to several educational and research institutions. Simferopol offers beautiful terraced parks, theaters, and museums. Visitors to Simferopol often tour the ruins of the ancient Greek settlement of Neapolis. These ruins, located approximately one mile from Simferopol, have been undergoing excavation since 1827. Tours allow visitors to view marble and bronze statues, weapons, burial sites, mausoleums, and gold ornaments that have been uncovered by archaeologists. The city had a population of 331,000 in 1985. Current population figures are not available. UZHGOROD is located in extreme western Ukraine near the border with Romania. Founded in approximately 903 A.D., Uzhgorod is an industrial center. Furniture, wine, wood products, and machine tools are produced in the city. Tourist attractions in Uzhgorod include a 16th-century castle, an Art Gallery that sells gifts and souvenirs, and the city’s large marketplace. Current population figures for Uzhgorod, which had a population of 102,000 in 1983, are unavailable. The city of VINNITSA is located roughly 150 miles (240 kilometers) south of Kiev. The city was founded in 1393 and lies in the midst of a fertile agricultural region. Industries related to agriculture, including food processing and the production

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Cities of the World of fertilizers, are vital to Vinnitsa’s economy. Other industries in the city produce machinery, footwear, and clothing. Vinnitsa has a museum containing local artifacts, and a music theater. The city was nearly destroyed during World War II, but has been rebuilt. In 1986, Vi n n i t s a h a d a p o p u l a t i o n o f approximately 375,000. ZAPOROZHYE is located in eastern Ukraine on the banks of the Dnieper River. The city is primarily an industrial center for iron and steel. A number of small industries in Zaporozhye produce electrical components, chemicals, and soap. A large hydroelectric plant on the Dnieper River provides electricity for Zaporozhye and the surrounding area. Several educational institutions are located in the city. Zaporozhye had a population of 835,000 in 1983. Current population figures are unavailable. The city of ZHITOMIR, with a population of 292,000 (1989 est.), is noted for its production of musical instruments. The city has a small textile industry, breweries, and a wood processing plant. Zhitomir is a transportation hub and is connected by rail with Kiev and other major Ukrainian cities.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate Ukraine's area of 233,088 square miles (603,700 sq. km) is slightly larger than France. Ukraine is mainly a vast plain with no natural boundaries except the Carpathian Mountains in the southwest, the Black Sea in the south, and the Azov Sea in the southeast. The Dnipro River with its many tributaries unifies central Ukraine economically. The mouth of the Danube River provides an outlet for Ukrainian trade with the Balkans, Austria, and Germany.

Ukraine has a complex geology with a rich variety of scenery and impressive contrasts in topography. Central and southern Ukraine is primarily steppe (prairie) with very fertile black soil exceptionally well suited for grain farming. In the east, the industrial heartland of the Greater Donbas or Donets Basin contains large reserves of mineral deposits. Western Ukraine has many picturesque mountain resorts. Enhancing the topography of Ukraine are two mountain ranges. On the western border are the Carpathians, very popular for winter sports. The Crimean Mountains divide the Crimean Peninsula, creating a semitropical area on its southernmost tip. The Crimea is a popular tourist destination. The Ukraine climate is similar to the wheat-producing regions of Canada and is characterized by abundant precipitation and cloudy skies, especially in fall and winter. Snow can start as early as October and not end until April. The mean temperature in summer is 87°F (30°C) and in winter 16°F (-8°C). Although summers are short, the temperature can soar to the 90s making it uncomfortable, since most buildings lack air-conditioning. Wi n t e r s s e e m e s p e c i a l l y l o n g because of so many sunless days.

Population The population of Ukraine is 50.5 million of which approximately 73% is ethnically Ukrainian and 22% ethnically Russian. The remaining population consists of many minorities, the largest of which is Jewish (1.35%) followed by Belarusian, Moldovan, Polish, Hungarian, Romanian, Armenian, Greek, Bulgarian, and others. Ukraine's population is 68% urban. Eastern Ukraine, with its heavily industrialized cities, is more urbanized than western Ukraine.

Ukrainian is an Eastern Slavic language, closely related to Russian and Belarusian. Ukrainian became the official language in 1989. Much of the population in eastern Ukraine speaks Russian as a first language, but Ukrainian is the first language in western Ukraine. Official Government documents are always in Ukrainian, and official meetings are usually conducted in Ukrainian. The political world and local media operate bilingually. Conversations in which one party speaks Ukrainian while the other speaks Russian are common. Ukraine was the cradle of the Kievan Rus State. According to legend, it was in Kiev that Prince Volodymyr (Vladimir in Russian) introduced Christianity to Kievan Rus in 988. Some 85% of the Ukrainian population are Orthodox Christians, 10% are Greek (Uniate) C a t h o l i c s, 3 % a r e P r o t e s t a n t (mainly Baptists), and 1.3% are of the Jewish faith.

Public Institutions Ukraine continues a difficult and slow transition from an authoritarian Communist system to a more democratic society. Ukraine is governed by a directly elected president and a unicameral parliament, the “Verkhovna Rada” (Supreme Council), half of which is elected by proportional representation and half in single-mandate districts. The President appoints the Prime Minister (subject to parliamentary approval) and controls government operations. Leonid Kuchma was elected President in July 1994 and again in November 1999. The parliament, which was elected in March 1998, is divided between party-based political factions and a group of independent deputies. In January 2000, 11 factions joined to form a pro-government majority, though its sustainability was unclear. The largest single faction is the Communist Party of Ukraine. The next parlia-

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Ukraine mentary elections are scheduled for 2002. The Constitution, adopted in 1996 and modeled on those of Western European democracies, provides a good legal framework for protecting civil and human rights. Actual practice, however, does not always conform to constitutional requirements, and many areas of life are still regulated by Soviet law and practices.

Arts, Science, and Education Ukrainians have made a spirited effort to preserve their cultural traditions and customs. You can visit village museums that display traditional crafts and homes of the last century. Folk dancing and music festivals are often held. The theater and music scene is lively. Theater performances are in Ukrainian or Russian. The Kiev Opera House is home to very good opera and ballet companies. The National Symphony and other musical groups are quite active. Opera, theater, and symphony tickets are generally inexpensive. Ukraine has a rich folk art tradition that features hand-painted eggs (“Pysanky”) and beautifully embroidered linen or cotton runners called “Rushniki” Contemporary art includes painting and sculpture representing both modern and traditional schools. Icons are on display in museums; contemporary copies are skillfully done according to strict artistic and religious standards and can be purchased in galleries. Educational policy formerly favored the study of science and technology, but there are efforts under way currently to upgrade the humanities, social sciences, MBA, and economics programs. Education is compulsory for ages 7-17. University-level education is generally open to anyone who can pass admission exams. 626

Cities of the World American professors conduct courses in American literature, history, economics, and other subjects at institutes of higher education under the Fulbright Program. In addition, some Americans at the predoctorate level conduct research in Ukraine under the International Research and Exchange Board (IREX) program. Still other American scholars in Ukraine pursue scientific and other academic work under the auspices of private programs.

Commerce and Industry Ukraine has great agricultural potential and was once known as t h e “ B r e a d b a s k e t o f R u s s i a .” Ukraine is also rich in natural resources. Despite a wealth of natural resources, the Ukrainian economy has stagnated since independence. All sectors of industry have experienced severe production declines since the collapse of the Soviet Union.Most small businesses have been privatized. However, there has been little largescale privatization. Economic reform has been halting because of over-regulation, high taxation, corruption, and an ineffective commercial law system. Economic reform was pursued in halting fashion in 1996-99. Following the 1999 reelection. President Kuchma appointed a largely pro-reform government. Market-oriented reform was introduced in 1992 and 1993 at a measured pace. In recent years, the Government succeeded in taming the hyperinflation of the early 1990s. A new currency, the hryvnia, was successfully introduced in 1996.

Transportation Automobiles Traffic regulations and procedures in Ukraine differ significantly from those in the U.S. Drivers often neglect to use signal lights, speed, and drive recklessly in urban areas. Pedestrians do not have the right of

way; exercise extreme care when crossing streets in large Ukrainian cities. Cars are frequently pulled over for violations, both real and imagined. Winters in Ukraine are snowy and dark, with severe ice accumulations common along the city streets; therefore, front-wheel-drive-vehicles provide the best handling. Only the main streets of Kiev are plowed regularly; but, side streets and housing complexes may remain covered with snow and ice throughout the winter. Make sure that your car is equipped with a rear-window defroster and snow tires. An automobile shipped to Kiev should be equipped with all the cold weather heavy-duty options available. Unleaded fuel is widely available. A functioning catalytic converter is now required to register a vehicle. Ukrainian law requires every vehicle registered in Ukraine to be covered by third-party-liability insurance issued by a Ukrainian insurance company. The annual fee varies from 8.1 UHR to 16 UHR with a total coverage of 2,000 UHR. Several Ukrainian insurance companies offer this option.

Local Public transportation in Kiev is efficient and inexpensive, but crowded. The city's network of buses, trolley buses, streetcars, and the subway (Metro) covers the entire city. Riders should be ready to contend with a good deal of pushing and shoving during the morning and evening rush hours. Privately operated minibus lines operate on many of the better traveled bus, trolley, and streetcar routes. Minibus fares are slightly more expensive than public system fares, but they never take more passengers than they have seats. The driver collects fares as you enter.

Ukraine

Cities of the World The transit system operates from 5:45 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monthly passes for the entire system or one-use tickets are sold at kiosks throughout the city. Although prices are the same throughout the city, different color tickets are used for different types of vehicles. Bus, trolley, and streetcar single tickets must be punched on a gadget located along the sidewall of the car. Punching your ticket is on the honor system. Surprise inspections are designed to check if everyone has paid, with a small fine collected on the spot if you are found without a properly punched ticket or a monthly pass. Entrance to the Metro system is through turnstiles operated by blue plastic tokens, purchased in the station, or by monthly passes shown to the Metro attendant before entering the subway. All instructions and Metro stop info rmation are in Ukrainian in the Kiev Metro system. Although some taxis cruise the city, private cars often provide taxi services. New taxi companies have opened with nice, new cars and English-speaking dispatchers. These taxis operate with a meter, and a small tip is greatly appreciated. Cruising taxis may refuse fares; the main reason being the destination desired by the traveler being different than the route the taxi driver is taking. After a taxi or c a r s t o p s, s t a t e t h e r e q u i r e d destination; if the driver agrees, negotiate a price before you enter the vehicle. Language skills are a necessity when dealing with cruising taxis as many streets are being renamed, and buildings are not clearly marked, so you may have to direct the taxi. Extra precautions should be taken in the evenings, when it is advisable to use only a clearly marked taxi instead of a cruising private vehicle.

Regional Ukraine's railroad and air transportation networks are extensive, and service is adequate. The rail system features three types of tick-

ets; first class, which is a two-person compartment; second class, with four passengers; and third class, which is general seating. First- and second-class overnight train rides are quite comfortable except for the lack of ventilation and generally dreadful toilets. Dining cars may or may not be available, and the food is of poor quality. However, hot water for beverages is available. No U.S. airlines offer direct service to Kiev. Numerous airlines provide service to Western Europe and other destinations: Air France, Lufthansa, British Airways, Swiss Air, KLM, Austrian Air, MALEV (Hungarian), LOT (Polish), CSA (Czech), Egypt Air, Turkish Air, Aerosweet, Air Ukraine, and Ukraine International. The road system in Ukraine provides access to all cities, towns, and most villages, though many roads are of poor quality. The traveler must plan the trip carefully since information and Western standard lodging are not available along the highways.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph Telephone service from Ukraine to the U.S., Europe, and to most of the world is available. Local calls within Kiev, which are placed at home or from telephone booths, can experience static and crossed lines. Ukraine has a limited number of long-distance lines, so expect busy signals during holidays and peak periods. Calls from outside Ukraine can expect the same busy periods. AT&T is currently available in Ukraine. Sprint or MCI are not currently available. Callback services are available, but Ukraine Telecom has threatened to make this service illegal. Calls can be booked through the international operator. Booked calls can take 30 minutes or longer to be completed.

Mail International mail can be slow and unreliable. International mail services like Federal Express, UPS, DHL, and others are available. All of these companies have offices in Kiev.

Internet Various companies in Kiev offer Internet access accounts. Usually only dial-up accounts are available to apartments. Direct links are limited due to lack of spare telephone lines in either the neighborhood or apartment building. AOL is available in Kiev, but modem speed is a slow 1,200 max due to the poor quality of the telephone lines. The AOL local number charges an hourly fee above and beyond the monthly fee.

Radio and TV You can purchase a multisystem TV through mail-order houses, such as Ostermann or Peter Justesen. Most newer multisystem TVs and VCRs also have power supplies that will accept 90240 VAC electrical power. Japanese and other foreign sets are on sale at several hard-currency stores. The prices are high by Western standards. Except at the Panasonic and Sony stores, foreign merchandise sold in Kiev carries no warranties. Local programming is available in Russian and Ukrainian. With satellite receivers you can view various European channels that include French, Polish, Spanish, Arabic, German, Dutch, Portuguese, Greek, Turkish, English, Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian broadcasts. Many channels broadcast English language TV programs, sports, and movies. Radio programs on Kiev's stations begin early in the morning. Much of the programming is musical, mainly Europop, Ukrainian choral, folk, and rock. Bring a good shortwave radio to receive Voice of America, BBC World Service, and Radio Liberty. Since early 1992, VOA and Radio

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Ukraine Liberty are also carried on the AM dial. Ukraine has three national stations (UT 1, UT 2, UT 3) in Ukraine. UT 1 and UT-2 broadcast in Ukrainian, and UT-3 broadcasts in both Ukrainian and Russian. According to public opinion polls, UT-1 (Ukrainian Television-1) has the lowest rating of all national Ukrainian TV stations. It broadcasts movies, largely pro-government political programs and news. UT -1 is criticized for being the government's mouthpiece. UT-2 is on a shared frequency. It carries government programming from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. The rest of the time is taken by “Studio 1+1,” an independent TV production studio that carries some of the most interesting Ukrainian programs, including high-quality newscasts, talk shows, entertainment, and movies. UT -3 is shared by Inter TV, the third most powerful television station in Ukraine (nongovernment). The station broadcasts Russian Public Television (ORT) and airs some of its own programming. The overall rating of Inter is rather high. Municipal TRK Kiev and some other local stations air their programs from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except weekends. STB, a private channel founded in 1997, is quite eclectic. Musical programs and soap operas are combined with a very strong information block. “Vikna” news is considered by many as one of the few reliable sources of news.

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Cities of the World Among the other commercial TV companies there are TV Tabachuk, Gravis, TET, and others, all of which place their programs on the above networks.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals A small but growing number of foreign newspapers and magazines such as the Wall Street Journal, International Herald Tribune, Financial Times, Newsweek, Time, and The Economist are available in hotel lobbies for hard currency, usually the day after publication. Prices are high even by Western standards, and availability is unpredictable. The Kiev Post, a free English-language paper published weekly, carries local, national, and some international news. It is readily available in restaurants and anywhere English speakers congregate. A weekly entertainment and life style magazine, What's On, is also readily available.

Health and Medicine Medical Facilities You should send a supply of your favorite over-the-counter minor pain remedies, cold medications, antacids, vitamins, and children's vitamins with fluoride and cough syrup. A home first-aid kit is also recommended.

ICTV, a private channel cofounded by the San Francisco-based Storyfirst Communications and a Ukrainian Radio and Television concern, is an entertainment rather than a political channel. Its political coverage appears only on the “Vista” news program.

At certain times of the year, particularly during winter months, air pollution is a problem in Kiev. This raises the risk of respiratory tract irritation, especially for children and persons with allergies or asthma. High pollen counts in the spring and summer compound the air pollution problem. Persons with known environmental allergies should bring an ample supply of appropriate medications.

Novyi Kanal, a private channel founded July 1998, carries mostly movies, with brief news summaries.

Health care is available to manage a normal pregnancy. However, it is not recommended to deliver in Kiev,

as maternal and neonatal care is not adequate. Local medical care is improving slowly but is difficult to access. Dental and orthodontic care with Western standards is available for acute as well as prophylactic care at a reasonable price. American Medical Center, a forprofit medical clinic with branches throughout eastern Europe, has opened in Kiev and is staffed by an American physician. Care can be obtained at a subscription rate or on a fee-for-service basis. They also have an American dentist with Western dental equipment.

Community Health The standards of cleanliness in most public buildings, taxis, and trains fall far short of Western standards but pose no threat to your personal health. Background radiation levels are a natural concern because of the 1986 accident at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Station located 80 miles northwest of Kiev. At the time of the accident, Kiev was not exposed to heavy radiation because the prevailing winds were blowing in the o p p o s i t e d i r e c t i o n . T h e U. S. Embassy and U.S. Government specialists monitor radiation levels in the air, water, soil, and produce of Kiev carefully and regularly. To date background radiation levels are regularly lower than radiation levels within the U.S. and world standards of safety. Tap water samples are taken regularly, and local water is not considered safe to drink due to the presence of coliform bacteria and the intestinal parasite giardia lambia. Water should be filtered and boiled, distilled, or bottled for both cooking and drinking. Automobile accidents and the lack of a trauma center pose the greatest threat to your health. When traveling in any vehicle, children should always be in some type of restrain-

Ukraine

Cities of the World ing car seat. Bring them as they are not available locally.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Vu l i t s a Yu r i a K o t s u b i n s k o h o, 254053 Kiev 53, tel. (380) (44) 4904000; after-hours 240-0856; fax 2447350. Mail using U.S. domestic postage should be addressed to U.S. Embassy Kiev, U.S. Department of State, Washington, D.C. 205215850.

Passage, Customs and Duties

Pets

To enter Ukraine, the traveler must have a Ukrainian visa valid for his/ her point and date of entry. Immunization and inoculation certifications are not required at the border.

All dogs and cats entering Ukraine must be accompanied by a certificate of good health bearing the seal of the relevant local board of health and signed by a veterinarian. This certificate must be issued not more than 30 days prior to the animal's arrival. A rabies certificate must accompany the animal through the a i r p o r t s i n E u r o pe. T r av e le r s should check any applicable restrictions with the airline and additional landing points they are using before traveling.

All antiques and items of value that you bring with you should be declared immediately upon arrival to avoid problems when you leave. A passport valid for sixth months beyond date of travel and a valid single or multiple entry visa is required. Visas may be obtained in advance from the Embassy of Ukraine, located at 3350 M. St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20007, tel. (202) 333-0606 or 333-7507. Visas can also be obtained from the Ukrainian Consulate in Chicago, located at 10 E. Huron St., 60611, tel. (312) 642-4388 or the Ukrainian Consulate in New York, located at 240 E. 49th St., New York, NY 10017, tel. (212) 371-5690. A copy of the visa application for Ukraine can be obtained on the Ukraine Embassy's Internet site http:// www.ukremb.com/. Note: Travelers who intend to visit Russia from Ukraine must also have a Russian visa. The Russian Embassy in Ukraine is located at Prospekt Kutuzova 8, Kiev, tel: (38) (044) 294-7797 or (38) (044) 2946816. Americans living in or visiting Ukraine are encouraged to register at the Consular section of the U.S. Embassy in Kiev and obtain updated information on travel and security within Ukraine. The Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy is located at #6, Pimonenko St., tel. (380) (44) 490-4422, fax 236-4892. The U.S. Embassy is located at 10

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures The currency of Ukraine is the hryvna. Ukraine is a cash economy. When bringing U.S. dollars into Ukraine, ensure that bills are in good condition because those that are worn, torn or written on may not be accepted. Credit cards and traveler's checks are gaining wider acceptance in larger cities. American Express traveler's checks may be cashed at some Ukrainian banks. Credit card and ATM fraud is b e c o m in g m o r e p r e v a l e n t a n d money scams are rampant. It is highly recommended that visitors and permanent residents refrain from using personal checks, credit cards or ATM cards if at all possible. If a credit card is needed, usage is permitted in better hotels, Westernstyle restaurants, international airlines and selected stores. Customs regulations prohibit sending cash, traveler's checks, personal checks, credit cards, or passports through the international mail system. Customs authorities regularly confiscate these items as contraband. Changing U.S. dollars for Ukrainian hryvnia or another currency is legal

only at banks, currency exchange desks at hotels and licensed exchange booths. Most goods and services in Ukraine are subject to a 20% VAT tax. Airport taxes are included in the ticket price. To export any antique items and/or works of art, the permission of the Ministry of Culture of Ukraine must be obtained. It is rarely granted. In addition to samovars, paintings, and rugs, this restriction applies to collections or separate works of fine, applied, and folk art; archaeological and numismatic items; musical instruments; gold, silver, and precious stones; hand-woven carpets; manuscripts; books published before 1966; and furniture made before 1964. The metric system of weights and measures is used.

Special Information As in any large Western city, pickpockets, simple muggers, and pursesnatchers operate in Kiev. American visitors and residents should take the same precautions against street crime that they would in any large American or foreign city. Property crimes include car vandalism and theft and residential and office burglaries. Violent property crimes, including carjackings and armed residential invasions, attacks in hallways, elevators of residences have occurred but are rare. Despite the country's difficult economic straits, Ukraine has been largely free of significant civil unrest or disorder. Political demonstrations and rallies to mark significant anniversaries and holidays, as well as to address specific political and economic issues, are a normal part of life in Ukraine. Although these have been largely peaceful, as in any foreign country it is advisable for American visitors and residents to avoid such demonstrations. To d a t e , t h e r e h a v e b e e n n o recorded acts of international

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Ukraine terrorism committed on Ukrainian territory. In general, Ukrainian law enforcement authorities provide adequate assistance to American citizens and firms victimized by crime. However, Ukrainian police continue to suffer from low pay and a shortage of such basic assets as vehicles, fuel, computers, and communications equipm e n t . Po l i c e f o r c e s a r e a l s o understaffed, and English-language capability is rare, even among officials who work on crimes involving foreigners. As a result, reporting a crime to the police can be a difficult and lengthy process. Subsequent follow-up to determine the status of a case requires time consuming visits to police stations. The U.S. does recommend that Americans visiting or residing in Ukraine report any crimes to the nearest local police station. Reporting a crime is also advisable even if some time has elapsed since the crime occurred, because criminals often repeat the same crime within the same general locale. During the past year the U.S. has received a number of reports involving incidents of harassment and intimidation directed against American businesspersons and interests. Physical threats have been recorded against American investors or facilities. Finally, when utilizing local service sectors, such as banking, medical, legal, and security services, business persons and firms should limit personal data and information provided to only that which is absolutely necessary. There are reports that persons working in these sectors provide information to criminal gangs, which they then use to plan burglary or extortion attempts. In general, business addresses and phone numbers should be provided instead of home addresses and phone numbers whenever possible. The Embassy's current crime and safety report is available on-line via the internet/worldwide web at the

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Cities of the World official website for the American Embassy in Kiev: HTTP:// WWWUSEMB.KIEVUA

LOCAL HOLIDAYS Jan.1 . . . . . . . . . . .New Year’s day Jan. 7 & 8 . . . . . . .Christmas (Orthodox) Mar. 8. . . . . . . . . . .International Women's Day Apr/May. . . . . . . . .Easter* May 1& 2 . . . . . . . .Labor Day May 9 . . . . . . . . . . .Victory Day May/June. . . . . . . .Holy Trinity* June 28 . . . . . . . . .Constitution Day Aug. 24. . . . . . . . . .Independence Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country Bahry, Romana M. (ed). Echoes of Glasnost in Soviet Ukraine. North York, Ontario, 1989. Bohachevsky-Chomiak, M. Feminists Despite Themselves: Women in Ukrainian Community Life, 1884-1939. Edmonton, 1988. Boshyk, Yury (ed). Ukraine During World War II: History and Its Aftermath. Edmonton, 1986 Conquest, R. The Harvest of Sorrow: Soviet Collectivization and the Terror-Famine. New York, 1986.

Grabowitz, George G. The Poet as Mythmaker-A Study of Symbolic Meaning in Tara Schevcherko. Harvard, 1982. Gudziak, Borys A. Crisis and Reform: The Kievan Metropolitanate, the Patriarchate of Constantinople, and the Genesis of the Union of Brest. Harvard Ukrainian Research Institute, 1998 Hamm, Michael F. Kiev -A Portrait 1800-1917. Princeton 1993. Hunczak, Taras (ed). The Ukraine 1917-1921: A Study in Revolution. Cambridge, Mass., 1977. Kamenetsky, I. Hitler's Occupation of Ukraine, 1941-1944: A Study of Totalitarian Imperialism. Milwaukee, 1956. Karatnycky, Adrian. “The Ukrainian Factor.” Foreign Affairs. (Summer, 1992). Khvylovy, M. The Cultural Renaissance in Ukraine: Polemical Pamphlets 1925-1926. Edmonton, 1986. Kohut, Zenon. Russian Centralism and Ukrainian Autonomy: Imperial Absorption of the Hetmanate, 1760-1830s. Cambridge, 1988. K u b i j o v c h , Vo l o d y m y r ( e d ) . Ukraine: A Concise Encyclopedia. University of Toronto Press: Toronto, 1988. Kuromiya, Hiroaki. Freedom and Terror in the Donbas: A Ukrainian-Russian Borderland, 1870s1990s. Cambridge University Press, 1998. Kuropas, M. The Ukrainians in America. Minneapolis, 1972. Kuzio, Taras. State and Nation Building in Ukraine. Routlege, 1998.

Dzyuba, I. Internationalism or Russification: A Study of the Soviet Nationalities Problem. London, 1968.

K u z i o , Ta r a s. U k r a i n e U n d e r Kuchma: Political Reform, Economic Transformation and Security in Independent Ukraine. Saint Martin's Press, 1997.

Goldelman, S. Patterns of Life of an Ethnic Minority. Annals 7 (1959): 1567-85

Luckyj, G. Literary Politics in the Soviet Ukraine 1917-1934. New York, 1983.

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Cities of the World Magoisi, Paul Robert. A History of Ukraine. University of Toronto, 1996.

Plyushch, L. History's Carnival: A Dissident's Autobiography. New York and London, 1977.

Marples, David. Ukraine Under Perestroika. Ecology, Economics and the Workers' Revolt. New York, 1991.

Reschetar, John S. The Ukrainian Revolution, 1917-1920: A Study in Nationalism. Princeton University Press: Princeton, 1952.

Sodol, P UPA: A Brief Combat History of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army, 1942-1947. New York, 1987. Subtelny, Orest. Ukraine. A History. University of Toronto Press: Toronto, 1988.

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MAP PAGE

London, United Kingdom

UNITED KINGDOM United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

Major Cities: London, Belfast, Edinburgh, Birmingham, Glasgow, Liverpool, Leeds, Manchester, Cardiff

Other Cities: Aberdeen, Armagh, Bristol, Coventry, Dover, Londonderry, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Newry, Nottingham, Plymouth, Portsmouth, St. Andrews, Sheffield, Southampton, Swansea

EDITOR’S NOTE This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated May 1996. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State’s web site at http:// travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION The UNITED KINGDOM of Great Britain and Northern Ireland is a parliamentary democracy with a constitutional monarch. Its origins and traditions are found in each of its four component parts—England, Scotland, Wales, and the six counties which occupy the northeast section of Ireland. England was first unified under a Saxon king in the ninth century. Wales eventually became part of that kingdom, as did Ireland before the end of the 13th c e n t u r y. I n 1 6 0 3 , J a m e s I o f England, who also ruled as James VI of Scotland, united the English and Scottish dynasties. In 1707, the Treaty for the Union of England and Scotland provided that the two countries “should be forever united

into one kingdom.” One parliament (the Parliament of Great Britain) served as the supreme authority in both countries. In 1801, the Act for the Union of Great Britain and Ireland, joining the two parliaments, established the present-day U.K. In 1922, however, the 26 counties of southern Irelan d bec ame a sel f-governing, independent entity (the Republic of Ireland, or Eire).

MAJOR CITIES London London is one of the largest cities in Europe, the U.K.’s seat of government, and the center of commerce, education, and arts. Like all cities, London attracts people of all backgrounds who come for many reasons, both to visit and to live. As a city which has been preeminent for centuries, it is full of a rich and varied history. The name London has no specific meaning. It was originally used to describe the city of London proper, still referred to as “the City,” and now the financial and banking center of London. Today, the heart of the city consists of “the City” and

the Borough of Westminster, also known commonly as the “West End.” With the steady growth of the capital since the Middle Ages, surrounding districts were absorbed into the huge metropolis of today. The latest census (1994) showed that London had a population of nearly 7 million in an area of 157,944 hectares. Greater London actually consists of 32 semi-independent boroughs (plus “the City”). Each has dozens of business, residential, and cultural centers of its own. Greater London has followed extensive coordinated postwa r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n p r o g r a m s, including successful intensive efforts to clean facades of famous surviving buildings.

Food London markets have a large selection of foods. Out-of-season fruits and vegetables are imported from around the world, and because of the diverse foreign community in London, ingredients for cuisines from nearly anywhere in the world can be found here. Supermarkets stock fresh, frozen, and packaged goods, nearly always at prices substantially higher than those in the U.S. British foods, eating habits, kitchen equipment, and terminolo g y a r e d i f f e r e n t f r o m U. S. counterparts. 633

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Clothing Mediumweight fall and winter clothing is needed about 9 months of the year. Lightweight clothing is worn in summer. Be prepared for rain and cool weather at whatever time of year you arrive, as even summer has many cool days. London department stores and specialty shops offer ready-made clothing for all family members in most quality ranges, but clothing costs considerably more than in the U.S., except during the January sales. The fashionable shopping districts offer a full range of designs from conservative to avant-garde. Shoes in narrow and wide sizes are hard to find, particularly men’s sizes larger than 12. Other sizes are available in many styles and makes but are expensive. People walk a good deal in London. Good walking shoes are essential. Attire in London for office, theater, shopping, sporting events, and social occasions is in darker colors and more conservative styles than in the U.S. Casual attire often means a coat and tie. Instructions to wear “lounge suit,” “day dress,” “town coat,” “tenue de ville,” “informal,” and “business suit,” indicate the requirement for dark business suits for men and cocktail dresses for women. Formal, black tie, dinner jacket, tuxedo, and smoking jacket mean long gowns for women (or short, dressy gowns, depending on current fashion) and black tie for men. Several shops in London rent formal wear. They stock appropriate attire for every formal occasion, from the Queen’s Garden Party and Derby Races to opening nights at the theater. Men: Collar sizes are the same as in the U.S., but it is hard to find longsleeved shirts in larger collar sizes. Women: Women in London usually wear long dresses or skirts for evening affairs, including informal receptions, and cocktail and dinner parties. 634

House of Parliament and Big Ben in London

Supplies and Services Almost anything is available from London’s plentiful shops and stores. Stores compare favorably with those found in large U.S. cities. Household items, cosmetics, and toiletries of most varieties are available. Drugstores carry a complete range of medicines, medical preparations, and health aids. All prices are high. Neighborhood shopping areas are scattered throughout greater London. Some American-type shopping malls opened in the 1980s. Virtually all shopping areas (the High Streets) offer common services: laundry and dry-cleaning, hair-

Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

dressers and barbers, gas stations, drugstores (chemists), hardware stores (iron mongers), travel and ticket agencies, restaurants, flowers hops, gifts hops, banks, libraries, newsstands (news agents), bookshops, je welers, and the eve rpresent pubs, to mention a few.

Religious Activities All major religions are represented in London. The Church of England is the established church, but various Protestant, Roman Catholic, Jewish, and other faiths have houses of worship in the London area. The American Church in London (Protestant) offers independent, interdenominational services specifically intended for Americans resi-

United Kingdom

Cities of the World dent in London. It has Sunday school classes, fellowship meetings, Bible study, and youth groups. The Saturday Times lists the times of services for the following Sunday.

Education The London area has several schools offering American-curriculum instruction from nursery school through high school. Parents must decide whether to keep their children in the U.S. system or introduce them into the British or international systems. It is generally agreed that the British educational system is good for children in their early years, when they can adapt easily, but that older children will find the adjustment more difficult. Three of the most widely recognized national curriculums are the U.K. General Certificate of Secondary Education (GCSEs) and “A” levels, the U.S. Graduation Diploma, and the International Baccalaureate (IB). There are criticisms of all three systems. The downside of the British curriculum is that it forces students to specialize quite early in their education. The opposite is said of the Graduation Diploma or the IB. Th e British GCSE curriculum allows for specialization at age 16, when students choose two or three subjects for study up to Advanced Level (“A” level). The next 2 years of intensive study are viewed as preparation for university work. The IB is administered by International Baccalaureate Offices in Geneva and London. There is a panel of examiners working together from many countries and cultures. The baccalaureate fulfills university entrance requirements in more than 40 countries. This qualification is aimed at providing a broad education with sufficient flexibility of subject choice to suit individual interests and abilities. Universities all over the world are coming to respect the IB, and, in the U.S., an IB candidate is sometimes

eligible to go straight into the second year of a degree course. It is wise to start considering schools as soon as you know you are coming to London. You might want to write directly to the school of your choice. They will send you a registration packet. If you have selected a school, contact the school and ask to preregister your child until you can complete and return the registration packet. Following are some of the American and international schools used most often by American families, because of their good academic standards and their proximity to neighborhoods where Americans live:

American School in London:

ASL is a private, coeducational day school, accredited in the U.S., offering instruction from nursery school through grade 12. The school is located in central London. There is a school bus service, and public transportation is good. No school uniform is required. Entrance requirements include school records for 3 1/2 years, forms of recommendation, and a candidate questionnaire for grades 5 to 12. Senior-year applicants require SAT or PSAT scores. Extracurricular activities are music, drama, and sports. American School in London 2–8 Loudoun Road London NW8 ONP Tel. 44 171 722–0101

The American Community School: ACS is a private, coeducational day school which provides a progressive education from pre-kindergarten through grade 12 for children of all nationalities using an American curriculum. There are two geographically distinct campuses: one northwest of London, one southwest. Entrance requirements include an interview, previous school records, and testing for high school students. The IB is offered. Extracurricular activities include drama, music, sports, and crafts. American Community School Surrey Campus - Heywood

Portsmouth Road Cobham, Surrey KT11 1BL Tel. 44 932 67251 American Community School Middlesex Campus Hillingdon Court Vine Lane Uxbridge, Middlesex UB10 OBG Tel. 44 0895 59771

Marymount International School: Marymount is a day and boarding school for girls in grades 7 to 12. It is one of a group of European Marymount Schools established by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Mary, a Roman Catholic foundation. It is accredited in the U.S. The international student body represents many religious affiliations. Students follow the American curriculum until age 16 when they may choose the IB rather than the high school diploma. Entrance requirements include previous school records, character and social references, and an interview. Extracurricular activities are educational tours, music, drama, and sports. Bus service is available for day students. Marymount School London George Road Kingston Upon Thames Surrey KT2 7PE Tel. 44 181 949–0571

The American School in Switzerland, England: TASIS schools are found in Switzerland, Greece, France, and England. TASIS England is a coeducational boarding and country day school for children in pre-kindergarten through grade 12. It is accredited in the U.S. Boarders attend from grades 7 to 12. The curriculum followed is American. Entrance requirements include three teacher recommendations, official transcript, and an interview, unless distance prohibits that. Extracurricular activities are drama, music, clubs, and field trips. TASIS England American School Coldharbour Lane Thorpe, Surrey TW20 8TE Tel. 44 932 565252 635

United Kingdom Southbank—The American International School: Southbank is a coeducational day school for students in grades 6 to 13. The school designs an individual study program for each pupil based upon previous education, needs, interests, and potential. Pupils can study for GCSE, the high school diploma, or the IB. High priority is given to the acquisition of proficiency in a second language. The school is located north of Holland Park in London’s West End, well served by public transportation. Entrance requirements include an interview, previous school records, and a letter of recommendation. Extracurricular activities are music, drama, travel, and sports. Southbank—The America International School 36–38 Kensington Park Road London W11 3BU Tel. 44 171 229–8230

London Central High School:

London Central is a Department of Defense School (DoDDS), 35 miles northwest of central London. It is accredited in the U.S., and offers a program for grades 7 to 12. It has advanced placement courses, study enrichment courses, and programs for somewhat handicapped students. Entrance requ irements include previous school records and a health certificate. Extracurricular activities include music, theater, publications, and student council. London Central High School High Wycombe Air Station Daws Hill Lane Buckinghamshire Tel. 44 494 455188

West Ruislip DOD Elementary School: This DoDDS school for children in kindergarten through grade 6 is about 13 miles northwest of central London. There are special education and hearing-impaired programs. There are two bus pickup points for children living in central London. Entrance requirements include previous school records. West Ruislip DOD Elementary School RAF West Ruislip 636

Cities of the World Ickenham Road Ruislip HA4 7DS Tel. 44 8956 32870

State-operated schools: With few exceptions, State secondary schools provide a general education to the age of 16 under the system known as “comprehensive” education. Some schools have the facility to provide advanced education to age 18. The large size of most state secondary schools makes it possible to offer many combinations of subjects; the disadvantage is that your child’s special needs may be overlooked. The British system is not well designed to accommodate transfers between schools, much less between countries. Courses and programs vary from school to school, and the newcomer must catch up on missed work. For information on state schools, contact: Department of Education Headquarters Sanctuary Building Great Smith Street SW1P 3BT Tel. 44 171 925–5000 You must be able to tell them where you are living so they can give you information on schools in your area.

Private Schools: T h e s e s c h o o l s usually offer only the most academic line of education and select those students who are likely to succeed. Be prepared for a competitive entrance process. Private schools (called public schools in the U.K.) are generally smaller than state schools. Because of the large number of private schools in the London area, you are urged to contact one of the following educational consultants for more specific information: Gabbitas Thring Educational Trust, Ltd. Broughton House 6 Sackville Street Piccadilly, London W1X 2BR

Tel. 44 171 734–0601 Independent Schools Information Service (ISIS) 26 Buckingham Gate London SW1E 6AJ Tel. 44 171 222–7274 or 222– 7353 For information on Catholic state schools, contact: The Catholic Education Service 41 Cromwell Road London SW7 Tel. 44 171 584–7491

Special Educational Opportunities Each London Borough council offers a comprehensive selection of parttime, day, and evening courses for adults at locations throughout the city. The cost is minimal, and the selection is endless. Registration is in September, but places are sometimes available later in the year. The publication, Floodlight, with a full listing of courses, is on sale in bookstores and news agents in August. Local libraries have copies. There are innumerable courses on cooking, flower arranging, fine arts, and nearly anything else of interest. Many American colleges and universities offer undergraduate and graduate programs here. Quality of programs varies, and costs range from moderate to expensive. Transfer of credits to and from other institutions can be a major problem. It is highly recommended that families seeking university education investigate costs, programs, and transferability before making their decisions. The Educational Advisory Service of the Fulbright Commission, at 62 Doughty Street, London WC1N 2LS, publishes a list of American colleges and universities in the U.K. They also have the largest collection of U.S. university/college catalogs, and have three full-time advisers.

Sports You can participate in virtually every popular sport in London, outdoors and indoors, team and indi-

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Cities of the World vidual. Borough-run facilities are free or very inexpensive. Spectators can enjoy both professional and amateur games year round. The annual Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race brings thousands to the footpaths along the Thames. The Henley Regatta, held in July, is host to rowing entries from all over the world. Horse lovers find pleasure at the major races of the year— Epsom Downs, Ascot, and Derby. The most popular sports are soccer and rugby in winter, cricket and tennis in summer, and horse and golf events year round. TV coverage of these events is extensive. Tennis at Wimbledon, cricket at Lord’s, football (soccer) at Wembley, and dog shows at Olympia are a few of the highlights of a sports program that is full, continuous, and of international caliber.

Touring and Outdoor Activities London is well known as a sightseer’s paradise. Whatever personal interests you have, London’s museums, art galleries, libraries, historic places, pageantry, and parks are bound to fulfill them. Sightseers can explore the city by bus, on foot, and by boat on the Thames. A full calendar of daily events is available in several weekly publications.

Entertainment Culturally, London is one of the richest cities on Earth. It has symphony orchestras, chamber music ensembles, and pop and rock concerts. The theater in London is unriv a l e d . Wo r l d - f a m o u s B r i t i s h , American, and international artists are often on stage. Productions routinely move from Broadway to London and vice versa. There are yearround offerings of opera, ballet, and symphonic music at the Royal Opera House, the Sadler’s Wells Hall, the Barbican and South Bank Centers, and the Royal Festival Hall. In addition to top-quality resident companies, famous continental and American groups often visit.

Tower of London

Central London offers a wide range of first-run films at theaters, film clubs, and art theaters. Going out to the movies is as easy and informal as in the U.S. Restaurants, cafes, and tearooms of every size and price range abound here. Food ranges from fast food fare to exclusive English and international cuisine. Pubs and afternoon tea are two English traditions that should not be missed.

Courtesy of Peter Gareffa

Social Activities The American Club, composed of American and British business representatives, has good eating facilities. It sponsors activities such as special film showings, golf tournaments, celebrations of American national holidays, entertainment of distinguished visitors, and the promotion of fellowship between its members and the local community. The American Women’s Club provides social and community service activities.

Museums and art galleries in London contain some of the most comprehensive collections of objects of artistic, archeological, scientific, historical, and general interest ever to exist in one city. The most notable are the British Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, National Gallery, Tate Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, Imperial War Museum, Museum of London, Wallace Collection, British Museum of Natural History, Geological Museum, and Science Museum.

Although we share a common language and a special relationship with Great Britain, it is wise to remember that it is still a foreign country. To expect attitudes and conventions to be the same as those in the U.S. will make the transition to life in Britain frustrating. It is tempting to feel that the “settling in” process will be faster and easier in Britain than in other countries, but most people find it takes just as long as in other countries.

The British seem to go out of their way to provide entertainment for children. This is especially true during summer and at Christmas. Some of the popular outings are special theater productions, pantomimes and puppet shows, the zoo, concerts, and film festivals.

Private social and political clubs are a prominent social feature. Many have flourished for longer than 100 years. Largely frequented for their social advantages, all have their own premises, including licensed restaurants. Entrance fees and subscriptions vary. Most men’s and 637

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Parliament buildings in Belfast, Northern Ireland

women’s clubs are exclusive, but members can entertain friends in a comfortable atmosphere. The English Speaking Union is open to men and women who are citizens of the U.S. or Commonwealth countries. It has a dining room and offers a range of activities. Fo c u s I n f o r m a t i o n S e r v i c e s , founded in 1982 by a group of American women familiar with international relocation, aids foreigners in adapting quickly to life in the U.K. They offer guidance on education and career opportunities, and provide foreigners with a chance to meet people of similar interests. There is a membership fee for seminars, but anyone may phone for general help.

Belfast Northern Ireland is a province of the U.K., created by the partition of Ireland in 1921. About the size of 638

Connecticut, it has about 1.7 million people—some 297,000 in Belfast. Although part of the U.K., Northern Ireland has its own distinct identity, a product of its history and the mixing of Irish, Scottish, and English traditions. Its beautiful rolling green countryside—underpopulated by European standards—is dotted with historic monuments, from stone-age tombs to great 19th-century houses. Right in the middle is Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the British Isles. Northern Ireland has strong ties with the U.S. It claims 13 U.S. Presidents with ties to the province, and many families have relatives living in the U.S. Consular presence dates back to 1796. More than 24 U.S. manufacturing companies are located in the province, employing 10% of the industrial workforce. Belfast was one of the U.K.’s first great industrial cities, making its reputation in the 19th century on

© Michael S. Yamashita/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

shipbuilding, linen, and textiles. It is beautifully situated in the Valley of the River Lagan, which flows into a long bay called Belfast Lough, and is surrounded by hills. The city’s name derives from two Gaelic words: “beal,” a river mouth, and “fierste,” hurry or haste. The central part of the city was badly affected by the violence of the 1970s, but in recent years buildings h av e b e e n r e s t o r e d , s h o p p i n g greatly improved, and many new restaurants opened. The center of Belfast has been turned into a pedestrian mall , which draw s crowds of shoppers. Although most of the city’s substandard housing has been replaced by attractive public housing, several parts of the city are blighted by the economic and security effects of the “The Troubles.” The rest of Belfast and its tranquil suburbs seem remote from the violence, but security forces are often evident. Generally, positive signs of progress can be seen and citizens have a resil-

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Cities of the World ient “business-as-usual” attitude. Political events in 1994 and 1995 have fostered much hope for resolving “The Troubles.” Northern Ireland has a temperate oceanic climate similar to that of the Pacific Northwest, but seasonal changes are less pronounced. Weather is often overcast and rainy (relieved by “sunny intervals”). It must be noted that most of the rain is merely a light mist. Because of Belfast’s northern latitude, the number of daylight hours varies greatly between summer (about 18 hours in June) and winter (about 8 hours in December). The sunniest weather is in May and June. Light snow falls occasionally in January and February, but temperatures seldom remain below freezing for more than a day.

purchased both locally and in London, though not cheaply. Local suits are tailored somewhat differently than American suits and may not be to your liking. Rainwear is needed but can be purchased locally. Women: Attractive, well-made women’s clothing, very similar to American fashion, is available in Belfast. The prices are considerably higher than American-bought merchandise, but the quality is generally excellent. Children: Children’s clothing follows U.S. styles, with emphasis on casual slacks and jeans for both boys and girls. Shorts are worn by children for summer play, weather permitting. Children’s dresses, slacks, and shirts are available, but prices are higher than in the U.S.

Food

Supplies and Services

It is not necessary to bring anything except specialty foods. Daily food needs are bought primarily at one of the many local supermarkets that are well stocked with local and imported products and seasonal fresh items. A large selection of American groceries and frozen foods or reasonable substitutes are available on the local economy. Local prices are higher than in the U.S., but conveniences include a milkman, butcher, and vegetable or egg person available for daily household delivery. Most popular brands of hard liquor, wines, liqueurs, and mixers are available at local stores. Beers (European and American) and a wide variety of American soft drinks are also available. It must be noted that the Northern Irish excel at bread making, and bakeries are varied and abundant.

Toiletries, medical prescriptions, c o s m e t i c s, p e r s o n a l s u p p l i e s, tobacco, and other sundry items are carried locally.

Clothing Clothing styles are the same as in the U.S.; what is proper in the U.S. is acceptable in Belfast. Men: Woolen clothing can be worn most of the year. Tropicalweight and wash-and-wear suits are seldom needed, but they may be useful on trips to southern parts of the British Isles and Europe. Readymade or custom-made suits can be

All basic services such as tailoring, dry cleaning, laundry, shoe repair, beauty shops, etc., are found in Belfast.

Religious Activities Churches abound in Belfast. The major denominations are Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Church of Ireland (Episcopalian), and Methodist. Other faiths represented include Lutheran, Christian Scientist, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, Baptist, and Jewish.

Education No American or international school is available in Belfast. However, numerous excellent primary and secondary level schools offer high academic standards and good extracurricula r activ ities. Relativ e emphasis on subjects is not the same as in American schools, nor are transfers from one level of education to another. Tuition-free elementary and secondary schools similar to U.S. public schools are available, but Foreign Service families usually prefer to send children

to preparatory or grammar (university preparatory) schools that are more like private schools in the U.S. Students who pass certain tests or who achieve high academic standards do not have to pay grammar school tuition. The school year extends from the first week in September through the end of June. Recommended preparatory (primary) schools (ages 5–11) are: Fullerton Preparatory School (preparatory school for Methodist College: coeducational) Lisburn Road Belfast 9 Inchmarlo School (preparatory school for the Royal Belfast Academical Institution; boys only) Cranmore Park Belfast 9 Hunterhouse College (girls only) Finaghy Belfast 10 St Brides Primary School Derryvolgie Avenue Belfast 9 Recommended grammar (secondary) schools are: Methodist College tional) 1 Malone Road Belfast 9

(coeduca-

Royal Belfast Academical Institution (boys only) 1 College Square East Belfast 1 Richmond Lodge (girls only) 85 Malone Road Belfast 9 Victoria College (girls only) Cranmore Park Belfast 9 Dominican College (girls only) Fortwilliam Park Belfast 15 639

United Kingdom Lagan College (integrated, coeducational) 63 Church Road Castlereagh Belfast Royal Academy (coeducational) Cliftonville Road Belfast 14 Belfast has schools for children with special educational needs. Preschool children under age of 4½ can be placed in a variety of programs including mother/toddler play-groups run by several of the churches (no fees); private nursery schools (parents pay fees); education and library board nursery schools or nursery classes attached to schools (like U.S. kindergartens— no fees); or private play-groups (no fees).

Special Educational Opportunities Queens University Belfast, known for its school of medicine, offers courses in most fields of study. Queens University and the Rupert Stanley College of Further Education offer a variety of adult education courses.

Sports Belfast is an excellent city for sports enthusiasts, who can enjoy many sports inexpensively. The city environs have 10 golf clubs. Many clubs offer squash, tennis, badminton, yachting, and sailing. Several public leisure centers offer swimming and aerobics; Queens University has a complete physical education center. The country offers horseback riding; stag and fox hunts; fishing (salmon and trout); and geese, duck, snipe, and small game shooting. A few good beaches are within easy access, but the water is cold. Spectator sports include horse racing, soccer, rugby, cricket, Gaelic sports, motorcycling, and auto racing. Belfast also offers several bike and running races. 640

Cities of the World Touring and Outdoor Activities Northern Ireland offers opportunities for biking, “pony-trekking,” water skiing, camping, sign posted walks and nature trails for hiking, and mountain climbing. All parts of Ireland, including the magnificent West Coast, are easily reached by car. Driving is on the left side of the road. Traveling by car is the most efficient and agreeable way of getting to see the area. The road netw o r k i s goo d w i t h 7 0 m i l e s o f motorway for those in a hurry, about 1,500 miles of dual carriageway and “A” roads, and very low traffic density. The two main motorways striking out west from Belfast skirt Lough Neah to the south (M1) and north (M2). Over 46 parks and playing field sites are currently under the control of the Belfast Parks Department. The National Trust administers several attractive historical and wilderness sites in Northern Ireland. Belfast has a museum, castle, theaters, art galleries, antique shops, zoo, and botanical garden. The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum is about 20 minutes by car from Belfast city center. One-and-a-half hours’ drive from Belfast is the Ulster-American Folk Park. Air, rail, and ferry services connect Northern Ireland to Scotland, England, and Wales, though fares are high. Accommodations (hotels, bed and breakfasts, guest houses, self-catering cottages) are plentiful and of high standard, and, whatever you are planning to do, there are several choices of places to stay, varying in price from moderate to expensive. The booklet, All The Places To Stay, published annually, lists all accommodations approved by the Northern Ireland Tourist Board. Dublin, a 3-hour drive from Belfast or about 2½ hours by train, offers excellent theater, a variety of restaurants, and a cosmopolitan environment. Shopping is more varied in Dublin, especially for women’s clothing, though generally more expensive.

Entertainment Belfast is experiencing a cultural and culinary renaissance. The Grand Opera House and Ulster Hall attract national and international touring companies regularly, bringing opera, ballet, and theater. Frequent concerts are given by a good local symphony orchestra. Several good theater companies present plays, including those about the contemporary situation, in a number of modern theaters. The Lyric Theatre is of particular note. Each November a cultural festival, second only to Edinburgh in the U.K., brings 3 weeks of entertainment to the city. Occasional fairs and exhibitions are held at local centers. Cinemas and a film club at Queens University offer first-run and classic films. The Northern Ireland Arts Council is deeply involved in promoting a stimulating variety of arts throughout Belfast. Many good restaurants, taverns, and cafes are common in Belfast. Some restaurants offer “pub grub” and other simple menus, while a number of French, Italian, Indian, and Chinese restaurants provide good meals at reasonable prices. Also a number of tea and coffee shops can be found. Crafts are in abundance throughout Northern Ireland. A wide range of factories with shops offer daily tours of their works.

Social Activities Besides those retired in Northern Ireland, fewer than 500 Americans live in the Belfast area. All are well integrated into the local community. The province has no specifically American organizations, except for the Ulster-American Woman’s Club, which is quite active. Northern Ireland people are very hospitable, and almost all areas of society are open to contact. Social life is built mainly around a private circle of friends and acquaintances and tends to develop among family, professional, club, and school lines. Social functions are similar to those found elsewhere, such as cocktail parties and dinners. You can also

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Cities of the World join any number of special-interest clubs or groups (golf, bridge, hiking, stamp collecting, etc.) or the Rotary Club.

Edinburgh Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The visual focal point of the city is Edinburgh Castle, which sits upon a high rocky hill in the city center. Much of the city’s Georgian and Victorian architecture is carefully preserved in virtually its original appearance. The city’s population of 444,000 is swollen by hundreds of thousands of visitors from all parts of the world, particularly during summer months and the Edinburgh International Festival which begins about August 15 each year and lasts 3 weeks.

Food The variety of food products available presents no problem to the American resident and there are a number of Safeway supermarkets in town. Food prices are about the same as in the U.S. Local meats are of good quality but generally more expensive than in the U.S. Bakery products are good and prices are reasonable. Milk is of excellent quality and perfectly safe. American baby foods are available locally.

Clothing All types of clothing are sold locally. Prices of some high-quality cotton dresses, shirts, and lingerie are the same as in the U.S. but generally of better quality. Extra-tall or large sizes can be difficult to find. Men: Ready-made men’s suits are widely available. Materials and quality are excellent. Women: A wide range of clothing is available of both British and continental manufacture and styling. Women’s suits in the medium-price range are nicely tailored and styled. Summerweight clothing is not necessary in Edinburgh, but a few items may be useful for those rare days when the temperature rises above 70°F. Medium-quality nylon

Walter Scott monument in Edinburgh

hose compare favorably with Americ a n b r a n d s. S w e a t e r s, w o o l e n dresses, and winter coats are necessary for daytime wear and available at good prices. Since houses tend to be cooler, a type of wool heavier than in the U.S. can be useful in Edinburgh. Hats and gloves are occasionally required for formal daytime occasions. Suits are appropriate for luncheons and informal cocktail parties. Women’s high-quality shoes are at least as expensive as in the U.S. Children: Good quality clothes are available for children. Bring or buy locally warm clothing, underwear, and overshoes for preschool children. Private schools require special

Courtesy of Peter Gareffa

uniforms that must be purchased locally.

Supplies and Services Toiletries, medicines, and other sundries commonly used for housekeepi n g, h o u s e h o l d r e p a i r s, a n d entertaining are available at local stores. All basic services are available in Edinburgh. Beauty shops provide service and prices comparable to those in the U.S.

Religious Activities Most denominations common in the U.S. have places of worship in Edin641

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Cities of the World mainly cover subjects of his or her choice. The student has specialized in these subjects and prepared for exams during the last 2 years of school. American students who have not had most of the final 2 years (ages 14 and 15) in Scottish school may find it difficult, but not impossible, to pass these exams and receive a Scottish Certificate of Education (SCE).

Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh

burgh. The Church of Scotland (Presbyterian) is the established church. The Catholic and Episcopal Churches are also well represented. In addition, Methodist, Mormon, Christian Scientist, Baptist, and Jewish places of worship are available. Sunday school and youth fellowship groups are organized on much the same basis as in the U.S.

chased uniforms. Tuition does not cover lunches and outside activities.

There is an excellent educational system operating in Edinburgh from primary through university levels. Many parents send children to day nurseries from the age of 3 until they begin the equivalent of first grade at the age of 5. Many preschool nurseries and private day schools are available within a reasonable distance of residential districts. In addition to coeducational schools, separate schools are available for boys and girls. Private schools are generally better academically than the State (city-run) schools.

Scottish schools place heavy stress on the three “Rs” from the time the 5-year-old begins school. At the end of the first year of school, the 5-yearold (who would have been in kindergarten in the U.S.) is expected to read, write, compose simple stories, and do double-digit addition and subtraction. With continued emphasis on basic subjects, Scottish children in junior and senior high school are usually well ahead of their American counterparts in these areas, often as much as 2 years in some subjects. Moreover, there is much earlier emphasis on mathematics, the sciences, and languages. Therefore, be prepared for a rather difficult transition period as older children work to catch up with Scottish classmates. Nevertheless, students who have done well in American schools usually do well in Scottish schools after they make the transition.

Because of the distance to most private schools, parents need to provide transportation each day or join a carpool. Edinburgh has no school bus service. Many older children take city buses to school. Fees at private schools are high, and most require pupils to wear locally pur-

Not only the curriculum, but the entire system of education, is different in Scottish schools. A student can graduate from school at age 16. At this time, the student has had 11 years of education and completed a series of difficult exams called “O” (ordinary) levels. These exams

Education

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Susan Rock. Reproduced by permission.

In Scotland, students wishing to attend a university will study another 1 or 2 years to prepare for a series of more difficult exams called “highers.” Successful completion of these exams is required for entrance to all Scottish universities and are accepted by most universities in the rest of Britain. Scottish students wishing to enter universities may t a k e a n a r r o w e r s e r i e s o f “A” (advanced) level exams. These are the same kind of tests as those given in England, Wales, Northern Ireland, and throughout the Commonwealth for students hoping to enter British universities. The “higher” exams are only given in Scotland. Students older than 14 who arrive here may find it difficult to complete high school in a Scottish school unless they are willing to work hard. Nevertheless, American students have done very well in the local school system in the past. Entrance to private day school is by negotiation with headmasters. The North Sea oil industry brought a large number of American families to Scotland in the 1970s, especially to the area around Aberdeen, 120 miles north of Edinburgh. Due largely to transition difficulties between American and Scottish systems of education, the American School of Aberdeen opened in 1972. It has an enrollment of 387 students, including military dependents from Edzell. It has two campuses and covers from primary grade through high school. The American School of Edinburgh opened in September 1976 with 15 students. It now has 30–40 students at any one time, with about 30 teachers, the majority of whom are

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Cities of the World part time. The age of students ranges from 16–19 years old. It patterns itself on the American educational system, but does not have U.S. accreditation and operates mainly on a format of informal tutorials with only a few students in each class. It is, however, registered with the Scottish Education Department. Currently, no students from the U.S. attend. The school also administers standardized tests, such as the SAT for students interested in attending U.S. universities.

Special Educational Opportunities There are 12 universities in Scotland. Three of these are in the Edinburgh metropolitan area—HeriotWatt, Napier, and Edinburgh. Edinburgh University is one of the best academic institutions in Britain. Edinburgh University and the Lothian Regional Council offer excellent evening adult classes in a wide range of subjects including a good selection of languages. Classes are usually from October until May. Three foreign cultural offices—the French Institute, the Italian Institute, and the Danish Institute— offer language classes in conjunction with the University of Edinburgh. Classes in Scottish traditional dancing and other folk art are held regularly in Edinburgh by the Scottish Country Dance Society.

Sports Many fine private and public golf courses are available. The climate allows golf year round. The immediate Edinburgh area has 28 courses. Temporary memberships are available in all but the most select clubs. Edinburgh has a number of tennis clubs and good squash courts. Several indoor swimming pools are open to the general public at nominal fees. The Meadowbank Sports Center and the Royal Commonwealth Pool were built to Olympic standards to accommodate the 1970 and 1986 Commonwealth Games. You can purchase golf clubs, fishing tackle, and other sports items locally.

The cool climate limits outdoor swimming to only a short time in summer. A number of fine beaches within easy reach of the city are suitable for picnicking, sun bathing, and swimming. Skiing is possible around Glencoe and at Aviemore in the Cairngorms. They can be reached by car in about 3 hours and by train in about 4. Special ski trains are available when snow conditions are good. Many ski lifts operate in that area. Equipment can be rented.

Touring and Outdoor Activities Simple tourist accommodation is available in all cities and towns along main routes out of Edinburgh. Glasgow is only 1 hour away by train or car. A day trip to the Trossachs and to Loch Lomond is possible by car or tour bus. You can arrange trips with equal ease to the Borders. St. Andrews is interesting with its university and famous golf courses. It can be reached from Edinburgh during summer with ample time for lunch and a game of golf. Gleneagles, where the Scottish Open is played each year, has a worldfamous (but expensive) hotel and four fine golf courses. Another pleasant weekend trip is to the area around Pitlochry, noted for its scenery and fishing. This could be coupled with a trip to Inverness and Loch Ness. A short trip to the north of Edinburgh presents a good view of the famous Firth of Forth Rail and Road Bridges. These are on the way to Dunfermline with its medieval abbey and home of Andrew Carnegie. Many interesting castles, palaces, and homes are within a 1-day drive of Edinburgh. The price of gasoline is higher than in the U.S., but U.S. Government employees are reimbursed for the tax paid.

Film House showing international films. During the Edinburgh International Festival you can see operas, leading ballet companies, symphony orchestra concerts of international caliber, and plays with outstanding casts. During the main Festival, the Fringe presents cabaret and late night musical and drama productions. The International Film Festival features a number of first showings with leading performers present on opening night. There is also a Jazz Festival during this time in the summer. Edinburgh boasts several excellent art museums. The Scottish National Library, Edinburgh Public Library, and two university libraries offer a wide selection of books, research materials, and an excellent music library. Major hotels offer shows and dancing throughout the year. Other hotels and restaurants have more informal Friday and Saturday night dinner dances. During the tourist season, major hotels have regular Scottish nights. These are called Ceilidhs (pronounced “kaylee”), which include traditional Scottish dancing, singing, and music. The city has many public houses or pubs. Some offer musical entertainment, jazz, and even country-western music. During the school year, the universities offer a wide variety of entertainment.

Social Activities Social contact with other Americans is available through the American Women’s Club of Edinburgh. A large U.S. community lives in the Aberdeen area, where there also is an American Women’s Club.

Entertainment There is an active cultural life in Edinburgh with opera, orchestras, plays, top name artists, and exhibitions taking place throughout the year. The movie theaters show current U.S. films, and there is also a

The city has a reasonably active social life. Cocktail and small dinner parties are a way of life in winter. The English Speaking Union has a branch in Edinburgh which provides a focal point for association 643

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with local Scots. Also, Scottish country dance clubs teach regional dances and, at the same time, provide a means of social contact.

Birmingham Birmingham lies in Warwickshire, central England, near the coal and iron deposits of the “black country.” Now the second largest city in England, with a population of over 1 million, it is the chief center of hardware manufacturing and of the motor components industry. Birmingham was a market town trading in leather and wools when it was seized and burned by royalists in the civil wars. It revived at the advent of the industrial revolution, and the population grew with the expanding manufacture of metal products and guns. Birmingham’s franchise came with the Reform Bill of 1832, and progressive city government has been the pattern since that time. The city initiated a slum-clearing scheme in the 1870s, and was the first town with a municipal bank and water-supply service. After suffering heavy damage during World War II, Birmingham was extensively rebuilt. Architectural sights include the Town Hall, built in 1832–1834, and modeled after the Temple of Castor and Pollux in Rome; the Victoria Law Courts; the University of Birmingham in suburban Edgetaston; the 13th-century Church of St. Martin, which was rebuilt in 1873; the cathedrals; and some of the older markets. Birmingham’s more recent developments include the National Exhibition Centre, and the Aston Science Park, housing high-technology industries. Culturally, Birmingham belies its reputation as a grimy industrial city—its library contains one of the world’s finest Shakespearean collections, and its art museum is noted for its pre-Raphaelite holdings. There also is a museum of science and industry. 644

Adam Woolfitt/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

City Chambers & George Square in Glasgow, Scotland

Glasgow Glasgow is Scotland’s largest city and principal port. Situated in Lanarkshire on the River Clyde, one of the world’s chief commercial estuaries, it is a city of approximately 680,000 residents. Its many industrial companies include those for engineering, printing, chemicals, and aeronautical engines. In recent years, it also has developed as a conference site. Glasgow was founded late in the sixth century by St. Kentigern Calso (also known as St. Mungo). It became an ecclesiastical center and seat of learning in the Middle Ages. The city grew as a port and commercial hub in the 18th and 19th centuries with the American cotton and tobacco trade. Perhaps because of its heavy concentration of industry, it is now blighted by some of the worst slums in Europe, although an urban renewal effort begun in the 1950s has had some ameliorating effect. G l a s g o w ’s s i g h t s i n c l u d e S t . Mungo’s Cathedral (13th-century Gothic), the Institute of Fine Arts, the Burrell Collection Museum, the renowned University of Glasgow (founded in 1451), the University of Strathclyde (1964), and Glasgow Green, the oldest park in the city.

The Scottish National Orchestra makes its home here, as do the Scottish Opera and the Scottish Ballet. In 1990 Glasgow was designated as a “European city of culture.”

Liverpool Liverpool, in Lancashire, near the mouth of the Mersey River, is England’s major port for Atlantic commerce, and was once one of the great trading centers of the world. Colonized by Norsemen in the latter p a r t o f t h e e i g h t h c e n t u r y, i t received its first charter in 1207, and soon became a dispatch point for shipping men to and from Ireland, as evidenced by its now largely Irish population. Its first wet dock was completed in 1705; the city docks, on both sides of the river, t o d ay a r e o v e r 3 8 m i l e s l o n g. Although known for its thriving industries, Liverpool has only recently recovered from the devastation and casualties suffered in the German bombing raids of 1940– 1941. An economic downturn in the 1980s brought high unemployment to Liverpool. Recent business developments are attempting to make the city prosperous once more. The city’s outstanding building is undoubtedly the Cathedral Church of Christ, begun in 1903 but not completed until 1980. A Gothic-

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Cities of the World style structure, it is the largest church in the country and the fifth largest in the world. Among the many other important buildings are the classical St. George’s Hall, Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral, Victoria Building of Liverpool University, and Philharmonic Hall. Liverpool had one of England’s first public libraries, established in the mid-19th century; its Brown, Picton, and Hornby libraries now form the largest municipal central libraries in Europe. Inhabitants of Liverpool (currently numbering 474,000) are known as “Liverpudlians.” The city was once the home of the Beatles, the rock group which emerged in the early 1960s and dramatically influenced the world of modern music.

Leeds Leeds, in the lower Aire valley of Yorkshire in northern England, is the informal “capital” of the nation’s industrial district, serving as a junction of rail, water, and air transportation routes. Leeds has produced woolen goods since the 14th century, and currently is the center for wholesale trade in clothing. Other industries here include engineering and chemical firms, and manufacturers of locomotives, heavy machinery, farm implements, airplane parts, furniture, and leather goods. Leeds was incorporated in 1626 and became a city in 1893. Its current population is 724,000. Notable among the city’s landmarks are the parish church of St. Peter’s; 17th-century St. John’s Church; the Cathedral of St. Anne; the nearby Cistercian house, Kirkstall Abbey, dating to 1152; Adel Church, a Norman structure; and the University of Leeds, founded in 1904. Another interesting building (acquired by Leeds in the 1920s) is Temple Newsam, the birthplace of Lord Darnley (1545–1567), second husband of Mary Queen of Scots and claimant to the English throne.

Government buildings in Cardiff, Wales

Manchester Manchester, the leading textile city of England and the publishing and printing center of the north, is located in Lancashire on the Irwell River, 30 miles northeast of Liverpool. Its population of 431,000 is engaged in industry and commerce. Known as Mancunium by the Romans, who occupied the area in A.D. 78, Manchester’s earliest charter dates to 1301; its charter of incorporation was granted in 1838, and it became a city 15 years later. A center of the industrial revolution, it was the site of the first application of steam to machinery, and of the first English passenger railroad.

© Richard T. Nowitz/Corbis. Reproduced by permission.

The Peterloo Massacr e, wh ich occurred in Manchester in 1819 when a cavalry charge on a peaceful demonstration killed more than 600 people, gave a significant boost to the growing reform movement of the 19th century. The “Manchester School,” a group of economists advocating free trade, was active in the city at that time. The world-famous liberal newspaper, The Manchester Guardian (now called The Guardian), was founded here in 1821. The city is also known as the birthplace of British statesman David Lloyd George. Among Manchester’s principal places of interest are the 17th-cen645

United Kingdom tury Chetham Library; the Rylands Library; a 15th-century cathedral; and the university founded as Owens College in 1851 and which, since 1903, has been called Victoria University of Manchester. The city is the home of the Hallé Symphony Orchestra, the Royal Exchange Theatre, the Royal Northern College of Music, and several fine art galleries.

Cardiff Cardiff, in Glamorganshire, is the capital city of Wales, the principality which forms England’s western peninsula. It is one of the world’s greatest coal-shipping ports, and its numerous other industries include iron and steel works, car component manufacturing, paper mills, and fishing. Cardiff Castle was built on the site of a Roman fort in 1090, and the parish church of St. John dates to the 13th century. Cardiff ’s name is Caerdydd in Welsh, which is one of the Celtic languages. Welsh is spoken by about 20% of the population (in addition to English), and both official and voluntary measures have been adopted in the past quartercentury to further revive its use. Support for bilingual education is reflected in the increasing number of students learning Welsh as part of their school curricula. Radio and television programs in Welsh are broadcast regularly. Prince Charles, the heir to the British throne, spoke at length in the language during his investiture as prince of Wales in 1969. Officially recognized as the capital of the principality, Cardiff is the chief urban center; the others are Swansea and Newport which, like Cardiff, are in the south. There is a university here, the University of Wales; a National Folk Museum; the Cardiff College of Music and Drama; and a new conference and concert hall, St. David’s. Cardiff has an approximate population of 300,000. Much of Wales’ cultural activity is centered in Cardiff, although other 646

Cities of the World cities and towns also are active in professional activities in the fields of literature, music, and drama. The Welsh National Opera, formed in 1945 and based in Cardiff, has gained international repute.

ABERDEEN, a stronghold of royalist sentiment in the religious wars of the 17th century, is Scotland’s third largest city, with a population of 219,000, and the principal European center for offshore oil exploration. It is also an ancient university town and was the Scottish royal residence from the 12th to the 14th century.

near the Avon River. Lady Godiva (1010–1067) made her legendary ride through the streets here. With her husband, the Earl of Mercia, she founded a monastery in the mid11th century that brought wealth and trade to the city. Bicycle manufacture began in Coventry in 1868; it developed into a motor vehicle industry that is still an important employer. Other industries include engineering and machine-tool companies. The German Luftwaffe destroyed most of downtown Coventry in Wor ld War II air r aids; rebuilding began immediately after the war. St. Michael’s Cathedral, probably the city’s most famous example of reconstruction, was designed by Sir Basil Spence. The old spire and nave have been left standing, next to the new cathedral. An important education center, Coventry is the site of the University of Warwick and Lanchester Polytechnic, among other institutions. The city’s population is an estimated 303,000.

ARMAGH is the religious center of Northern Ireland, and diocesan headquarters for both the Church of Ireland and the Roman Catholic Church. Many of its public buildings and Georgian townhouses are the work of Francis Johnston, who also left his mark on Dublin. Armagh, a leading intellectual center from the fifth through the ninth centuries, is today a quiet city of 15,000 residents.

DOVER, the channel port on the Strait of Dover in southeastern England, was chief of the ancient Cinque Ports, which also included Hastings, Hythe, Romney, and Sandwich. Important since Roman times, it has been a stronghold in many eras of British history. During World War II, Dover was battered continually by German gunfire. Its current population is approximately 107,000.

BRISTOL is the capital of England’s west country, and famous for the prominent role it played in American colonization. It was from Bristol that John and Sebastian Cabot sailed to America in 1497. The city also was the birthplace of William Penn. Bristol, now a city of 399,000, was a royal borough before the Norman Conquest. It is an important shipping center, known for its Clifton Suspension Bridge, a 702-foot span over the Avon River. The University of Bris tol was founded in 1909.

LONDONDERRY, Ulster’s wellpreserved ancient city, dates from the year 546. It was subjected to a t t a ck m a n y t i m e s d u r i n g i t s tumultuous history, and withstood a 105-day siege by the forces of James II in 1688–89. The city, formerly called Derry, was a U.S. Navy base in World War II. It sits on a hill overlooking the Foyle estuary, about 95 miles northwest of Belfast and has a population of approximately 47,000.

Sports and recreation are popular here. Association football and rugby have wide appeal; the National Stadium at Cardiff Arms Park is one of B r i t a i n ’s m o s t m o d e r n r u g b y structure.

OTHER CITIES

COVENTRY is a manufacturing city in central England, located 18 miles southeast of Birmingham,

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE, in Northumberland, is an important trade and coal-shipping center on the River Tyne. It stands on the site of the Roman military encampment

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Cities of the World of Pons Aelii, on Hadrian’s Wall. Traces of the town walls and towers, attributed to Edward I (1271–1307), still stand. King’s College, located in this city of 284,000, is affiliated with the University of Durham. The people of Newcastle-upon-Tyne are referred to as “Geordies”—some say because of the support given to George I and George II in the 18th century, but more probably a nickname derived from the “geordie” safety lamp designed for local miners by George Stephenson. NEWRY (in Irish, An Tlúr) is the seat of Newry and Mourne District, in Northern Ireland. It lies on the River Clanrye, near Carlingford Lough, about 30 miles southwest of Belfast. The first Protestant church in Ireland, St. Patrick’s (1578), was built here. According to legend, St. Patrick planted the original yew tree—symbol of immortality—in the region. Newry grew around a Cistercian abbey begun by St. Malachy (1094–1148) about 1144. It was frequently attacked from the 13th through the 17th centuries, because of its vulnerable position between the hills. Industries in Newry include linen and cotton spinning and weaving, waterproof clothing manufacture, and granite quarrying. Newry’s population is close to 29,000. NOTTINGHAM, with an estimated population of 282,000, is one of England’s primary route centers. Situated about 100 miles northwest of London, it is also a major cultural hub of the central region. Two prominent theaters here include the Theatre Royal (1865), and the Playhouse (1963). The poet Byron (1788–1824), and the writer D.H. Lawrence (1885–1930) are among the literary figures associated with the city. The legend of Robin Hood is commemorated in Nottingham by a statue on Castle Green. Industries in Nottingham include pharmaceutical, tobacco, and bicycle manufacturing. Most employment is in the service sector. The Anglo-Saxons settled the region in the sixth century, na mi ng it S not ing aham , meaning the “ham,” or village, of Snot’s people. The site of three par-

Buckingham Palace in London

liaments between 1330 and 1337, it was also in Nottingham that Charles I (1660–1649) raised his standard in 1642, starting the English civil war. PLYMOUTH houses the British Navy’s important Davenport Dockyard. With some 256,000 residents the city is situated 190 miles southwest of London, near Plymouth Sound. Long a vital port city, Plymouth was the embarkation point for the fleet that devastated the Spanish Armada in 1588. Sir Walter Raleigh (1552–1618) sailed from here to colonize Virginia. The dockyards, dating from 1690, provide the Royal Navy with barracks, an engineering college, and a hospital. Plymouth withstood extensive damage in World War II; reconstruction was completed by 1962. Today, the city boasts noted commercial, shopping, and civic centers. PORTSMOUTH, the birthplace of Charles Dickens, is situated in Hampshire, southern England. It is an important naval base whose dockyards were established in 1494, and also is a noted seaside resort. In 1940, the city suffered extensive German bombing. George Meredith (1828–1909), English writer and critic, is another of Portsmouth’s

Courtesy of Mira Bossowska

famous sons. Its current population is 189,000. ST. ANDREWS is a noted North Sea golfing resort town in the Fife region of eastern Scotland. It is the place where Scottish kings were crowned, and whose renowned university is the oldest in Scotland (1411). St. Andrews was Scotland’s ecclesiastical capital until the Reformation. Its population is about 16,000. S H E F F I E L D i s t h e c en t e r of England’s cutlery industry, and is located 68 miles northeast of Birmingham in the South Yorkshire region. This industrial city of some 530,000 residents also manufactures steel, chemicals, and paints. Cutlery production began here in the early 18th century, with the steel industry starting about one hundred years later. The University of Sheffield dates to 1905. SOUTHAMPTON, a chief shipping center for passenger and merchant vessels, lies on an estuary of the Test River in the southern English county of Hampshire. Roman and Saxon settlements once flourished on the site of the city. In 1620, the Pilgrims embarked from Southampton on their voyage to America; a 647

United Kingdom Mayflower Memorial is erected within the city walls. The current population is roughly 212,000. SWANSEA (in Welsh, Abertawe), located on Bristol Channel, is about 30 miles northwest of Cardiff, Wales. This city of 189,000 residents is the birthplace of the poet Dylan Thomas (1914–1953), who saluted the area in his writings. Swansea grew from a market town to an industrial center in the early 1700s; the economy still includes industries such as nearby lead/zinc and nickel works. Oil refining was introduced here in 1921. The city attracts customers from all of southwest Wales to its shopping and service facilities. Tourists come to Swansea for its beaches along Swansea Bay and the Gower Coast.

COUNTRY PROFILE Geography and Climate The islands comprising the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (U.K.) lie off the northwest coast of the European Continent. The English Channel, the Straits of Dover, and the North Sea separate the islands from the Continent. At the closest point, they are only 17.8 miles from the French coast. The capital city of London is in the southeast and lies on nearly the same latitude as Winnipeg, Canada. The U.K. has a total land area of 94,217 square miles, roughly the size of Oregon. The British Isles have a complex geology with a rich variety of scenery and impressive contrasts in topography. Highland Britain contains the principal mountain ranges, which vary from 4,000 to 5,000 feet and occupy most of the north and west of the country. Lowland Britain, almost entirely compo sed of low, rolling hills and flatlands, lies to the southeast. 648

Cities of the World Prevailing southwesterly winds make Britain’s climate temperate and equable year round. Average daily temperatures are 40°F in winter and 60°F in summer. Extreme temperatures are rare, but changeable weather patterns cause wide temperature ranges on any given day. Humidity in summer ranges from 50 to 80%. Average annual rainfall is 30–50 inches, usually distributed evenly throughout the year. Persistent cloud cover limits sunshine to an average of about 6–7 hours a day in summer and 1–2 hours a day in winter.

Population The estimated population of the U.K. in 2000 was 59.8 million. In addition to the ethnic groups indigenous to the British Isles, the past few decades have seen the arrival of large numbers of Indians, Pakistanis, and West Indians. Britain’s population density is about 246 pers o ns a square ki lometer, with England being the most densely populated at 383 persons a square kilometer and Scotland the least populated at 65 persons a square kilometer. Britain’s population is largely urban and suburban. Britain is a cultural melting pot. In its early history, Britain was subjected to many invasions and migrations from Scandinavia and the Continent. The Romans occupied Britain for several centuries. The Normans, the last of a long succession of invaders, conquered England in 1066. Under the Normans, the pre-Celtic, Celtic, Roman, AngloSaxon, and Norse influences were blended into the Briton of today. Celtic languages still persist in Northern Ireland and Wales, and, to a lesser degree, in Scotland. But, English, derived from Anglo-Saxon and Norman-French, has long been the predominant language. Religious freedom is guaranteed in the U.K. There are two official state churches: the Church of England and the (Presbyterian) Church of Scotland. The Church of England, established during the 16th-century

Reformation, is the major religious denomination. Other major denominations include Baptist, Buddhist, Hindu, Jewish, Methodist, Moslem, Roman Catholic, Sikh, and Unitarian.

Public Institutions The U.K. is a Parliamentary state with a constitutional monarchy. The state’s origins and traditions are found in each of its four component parts: England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland. England was first united under a Saxon king in the ninth century. Wales eventually became part of that kingdom, and Ireland joined it before the end of the 13th century. In 1603, James I of England, who also ruled as James VI of Scotland, united the English and Scottish dynasties. In 1707, the Treaty for the Union of England and Scotland provided that the two countries “should be forever united into one kingdom.” One Parliament (the Parliament of Great Britain) served as the supreme authority in both countries. In 1801, the Act for the Union of Great Britain and Ireland (joining the Irish Parliament with the Parliament of Great Britain) established the present-day U.K. In 1922, however, the 26 counties of southern Ireland became a self-governing, independent entity—The Republic of Ireland, or Eire. Meanwhile, the Government of Ireland Act in 1920 enacted a Constitution for Northern Ireland that preserved the supreme authority of the U.K. Parliament and provided Northern Ireland with limited authority to deal with domestic “transferred” affairs. These arrangements remained in force until 1972 when, following several years of political instability and violence in Northern Ireland, a period of direct rule was introduced. In July 1974, the Northern Ireland Act was introduced. It provides that the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland is to be responsible to the U.K. Parliament for delegated services. Responsibility for the administration of Northern Ireland departments rests temporarily with Ministers in the Northern Ireland

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Cities of the World Office. Although one state, the U.K. has adopted flexible methods of government. England, Wales, and Scotland have different legal, judicial, and educational systems. For most domestic matters they have different government departments. In Scotland, these departments are headquartered in Edinburgh and grouped under the Secretary of State for Scotland, a member of the British Cabinet. To a large degree, the administration of Welsh affairs is delegated to the Welsh Office under the Secretary of State for Wales, who also holds Cabinet rank. The Channel Islands and the Isle of Man (which are Crown dependencies and not part of the U.K.) have their own legislative assemblies, systems of local administration and law, and courts. Nonetheless, they maintain a special relationship with the U.K. because of their proximity and historical connections with the Crown. The U.K. Government is responsible for their defense and international relations. The U.K. Constitution is formed by statute, by common law, and by precepts and practices known as conventions. These have never been codified and are not directly enforceable in a court of law but have a binding force as rules of the Constitution. The Constitution is not contained in any document and can be altered by an Act of Parliament or by general agreement to vary, abolish, or create a convention. Therefore, it can readily adapt to changing political conditions and ideas. The organs of Government established by the U.K. Constitution are readily distinguishable, but their functions often intermingle and overlap. They are:

are responsible for administration at the national level; local authorities, who administer services at the local level; and public corporations that may be responsible for nationalized industries and services; and The Judiciary, which determines common law and interprets statutes. It is independent of both the Legislature and the Executive.

Arts, Science, and Education Artistic and cultural activity in Britain ranges from the highest professional standards to a variety of amateur performances and events. The arts also represent a major sector of economic activity, contributing an estimated $9 million a year to Britain’s balance of payments. Public and private art galleries offer a tremendous selection of Old World masters and contemporary artists. Festivals, such as the Edinburgh International Festival, attract world attention and participation. Devotion to the arts is rooted in the U.K.’s rich cultural heritage. This devotion has led to maintenance of many museums, concert halls, and theaters that provide a wide variety of classical and popular works. In the last four decades, popular interest in the arts has increased s t e a d i l y. T h i s d e v e l o p m e n t i s reflected in the profusion of amateur dramatic and musical societies, the growth in book and record sales, and the large attendance figures at major art exhibitions.

The Legislature, which comprises the Queen and Parliament (the Houses of Lords and Commons);

Scientific and technological innovation is aggressively pursued by various government departments, universities, learned societies (six of world renown), professional institutions, public and private councils, industry, and international scientific exchanges.

The Executive, which includes the Cabinet and other Ministers of the Crown who are responsible for initiating and directing national policy; government departments, which

The government spends up to 2.7 b i l l io n p o u n ds a y e a r o n c i v il research and development, distributing these moneys through five research councils and several uni-

versities. A long-term government goal is to encourage private industry to support more research, particularly in projects nearly ready for commercial use. Public corporations, independent trusts, and foundations and learned societies also support research projects. Parents in Britain are required by law to see that their children receive efficient, full-time education, at school or elsewhere, between the ages of 5 and 16. Almost 93% attend public schools. The higher education system in the U.K. comprises 83 universities. These include the Open Universities that were established to provide higher education for students with or without formal qualifications for obtaining a university degree. Higher education grew rapidly in the 1970s. Today, one in four young people begins university and college education.

Commerce and Industry Although small in land area and accounting for just over 1% of the world’s population, the United Kingdom has the fourth largest economy in the industrialized world and serves as one of the world’s leading trading partners. About 60% of Britain’s trade is with other member countries of the European Union (EU), to which the U.K. has belonged since 1973. Britain’s twoway trade in goods and services with the U.S. amounted to $82.5 billion in 1993. The United States and the U.K. are also the largest foreign investors in each other's country. By t h e e n d o f 2 0 0 0 , t h e U. S. h a d invested more than $230 billion in the U.K. In the U.K., production is heavily oriented toward the service sectors, just as in the U.S. It can be broadly subdivided as follows: primary (consisting of agriculture and energy), 9%; secondary (manufacturing and construction), 30%; and tertiary (service industries, including government), 61%. Energy had been 649

United Kingdom the fastest growing sector in the economy as the North Sea oil-fields were under development. However, North Sea production has about peaked. Manufacturing, long in decline, has revived as economic growth has carried firms back into profitability. Nevertheless, manufacturing is clearly secondary to the expanding service industries, such as catering, hotels, and financial services. Housing has also become increasingly important in the U.K., as more people have sought to purchase their own homes. Today, over 70% of British houses are owner occupied, while 25% are rented from the government. Personal incomes in Britain have improved dramatically in recent years, although they still lag behind the U.S., Japan, and some other EU countries. Before the EU expanded from 12 to 15 members, based on equivalent purchasing power per capita, the living standards in the U.K. ranked seventh.

Transportation Local The U.K. offers comprehensive, modern rail, air, and sea transportation. Inland travel is quick and efficient by public and private transportation systems. British Rail passenger services are concentrated on the high-speed, intercity lines, and commuter service around large cities, especially London and the southeast. Motorail services carry both passengers and cars. Subway service in London is fast and frequent but closes at midnight and is subject to delay, with even a little snow. The present system is comprehensive, but stretched to near its capacity. It offers easy transfer to British Rail and buses. All major urban and suburban areas have bus service. Intracity buses are painted red; long-distance lines are green. Bus route maps are furnished free by government-operated bus lines. Carrier-owned buses 650

Cities of the World serve major air and sea terminals. Minibuses service some suburban areas. Taxis cruise the streets of all major cities in large numbers. They are easy to find, except in rush hour or in the rain. Taxis are metered and charge a flat rate per mile; surcharges are paid for evening, weekend, and local holiday travel and for extra passengers. Many cab companies have telephone pickup services. Intracity trips average 5–9 pounds (tip is optional). Taxis may be found in taxi ranks (stands) in front of large hotels, or may be flagged down on the street when the yellow rooftop light is on. In London, black London cabs pick up passengers on the streets, from taxi ranks, or can be called by phone. They are licensed, and, as each driver must pass an extensive test on London streets and important locations, they are very reliable. London cabs are metered. Unlicensed “minicabs” are also available in London, but they must be booked and are not allowed to “cruise” for fares on the streets. They are unmetered and passengers should agree to a charge before departure. Minicabs are usually less expensive than black cabs.

Belfast: Belfast offers travel by bus, train, and taxi. Public transportation is not too busy during rush hour, and the system operates regularly. Intracity transportation provides adequate, inexpensive service. The Ulsterbus service covers all Northern Ireland outside Belfast, and their express coaches also serve the Irish Republic.

business. But in the city centers, due to heavy traffic and parking problems, it is often desirable to use public transportation. Both high-grade and low-grade petrol (gas) can be purchased at numerous filling stations. Unleaded petrol is becoming more readily available throughout Scotland in the larger cities and towns. Many gas stations can be closed on Sundays.

Regional London is a hub of international travel, with air and sea routes to nearly all corners of the globe. Britain is served by ferry and hovercraft which link it to the Continent’s road and rail system. The Channel Tunnel (Chunnel) officially opened in May 1994 and began full transportation service of passengers, cars, and commercial lorries via highspeed rail to France during 1995.

Edinburgh: Edinburgh has frequent airline, rail, and bus services to other parts of Scotland and the U.K. Regular airline shuttle service from Edinburgh’s Turnhouse Airport to Heathrow and Gatwick Airports in London allows the traveler to make connecting flights to nearly any part of the world. Daily flights are scheduled from Turnhouse direct to Dublin and the Continent. Bus service to major British cities is frequent, reasonably fast, and inexpensive. Trains provide fast, more comfortable service, and include convenient night-sleeper service between Edinburgh and London. Hovercraft and other car and passenger ferries operate regularly to and from the European Continent.

Edinburgh: Scotland has an excellent network of roads and motorways for driving between the cities or out into the countryside. In some remote areas of the Highlands only single-lane roads exist. They can be extremely hazardous and virtually i m p as s a b l e d u r i n g t h e w i n t e r months. Caution is necessary in driving through areas where grazing sheep may attempt to cross the road. Most people find a car desirable for sight-seeing, shopping, and

Belfast: Belfast has good bus and train service to most parts of Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. There is convenient ferry service to Stranraer in Scotland as well as ferries to the Isle of Man and to Liverpool. Belfast has two airports. The Belfast International Airport (Aldergrove—18 miles from the center of Belfast) has numerous daily London-Belfast flights, and regular service to other British and interna-

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Cities of the World tional destinations. The Belfast Harbor Airport (4 miles from city center) has services to London, other airports in Great Britain, and some flights to other cities in Europe.

Communications Telephone and Telegraph A direct-dial telephone system serves London and most of the U.K. The U.S. and Western Europe can be reached by direct dialing. Charges for home telephones and domestic and international calls are significantly more expensive than in the U.S. Internal and international telegraph service is available and efficient. Belfast local- and long-distance telephone service is good. Telegraph is available through several commercial companies. Edinburgh telephone and telegraph services are excellent. Telephone service is direct dial. It links Edinburgh to all cities in the U.K., most of Western Europe, and to the U.S.

Radio and TV Television is broadcast through the state-owned British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC)—channels 1 and 2—and the commercially financed Independent Television Network (ITN)—channels 3 and 4. A fifth channel is in the discussion stages. Both BBC and ITN operate nationwide, with regional variations. All four channels operate in the UHF range. Network programming is standard throughout the country in both content and timing. Considerable program flexibility is provided to allow for locally produced shows and news reports between network programs. Cable and/or satellite TV are also available in many parts of London. There are many stations to choose from; they are on the air 24 hours daily and include 3 movie channels, 3 sports channels, CNN, SKY, and

several family- and children-oriented channels. Radio programming on AM, FM, and SW bands is excellent. BBC radio provides listeners with five national channels, including a new, 24-hour news channel. Broadcasts present all types of music, news, commentary, adult education programs, and works of artistic and intellectual interest. Independent commercial stations provide general entertainment and news. Broadcasts from Europe can also be received clearly. Reception of the Armed Forces Network broadcasts on radio and TV is possible.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals The British press caters to a wide variety of interests and political views. Ten morning papers—The Times, Financial Times, Guardian, Daily Mirror, Daily Mail, Daily Express, Sun, Daily Star, Daily Telegraph, and Independent—are national. The total average daily circulation exceeds 2 million. Eight national Sunday papers—Sunday Times, Mail on Sunday, News of the World, The Observer, The Sunday People, Sunday Express, Sunday M i r r o r, a n d Th e S u n d a y Te l e graph—have a total average weekly circulation of more than 3 million copies. The news media is served by three large British news agencies—Reuters, the Press Association, and the Exchange Telegraph Company. UPI and AP have affiliates in London, as do most major U.S. newspapers. Many suburban daily papers contain news of local interest.

subjects, many in great depth. In addition to circulating in Britain, these publications enjoy international distribution. They are an important medium for selling British goods overseas. Periodicals published in England circulate throughout the U.K. Scotland has three monthly illustrated periodicals (Scottish Field, Scotland’s Magazine, Scot’s Magazine), a weekly paper devoted to farming interests (Scottish Farmer), several literary journals (the most famous is probably Blackwood’s), and many popular magazines. In Northern Ireland, weekly, monthly, and quarterly publications cover farming, the linen industry, building, motoring, politics, and social work. European editions of Time, Newsweek, and the International Herald Tribune are readily available at newsstands and book-shops. A large number of bookshops in London carry American magazines such as Fortune, Forbes, Saturday Review, Harper’s Bazaar, and the New Yorker. Britain is served by a complete network of public libraries. About half the libraries lend a variety of phonograph records, and a growing number are adding loan collections of artworks, either original or reproduction. Nearly all libraries have children’s departments and most also act as centers for film showings, adult education classes, lectures, exhibitions, drama groups, recitals, and children’s story hours. They are a very useful resource for information on the neighborhood they serve. Books of all types are available in bookshops and department stores.

Britain has more than 4,500 periodicals and several prominent journals of opinion. Literary and political journals and those specializing in international and commonwealth affairs are published monthly or quarterly.

Health and Medicine

Publication of trade, technical, business, scientific, and professional journals has become a major aspect of the British publishing industry. These journals cover hundreds of

The U.K. has excellent medical facilities in all major cities. London, Belfast, and Edinburgh have medical training centers offering the full range of services. All U.K. residents

Medical Facilities

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United Kingdom are entitled to medical care under the National Health Service (NHS). Medical practitioners are allowed to maintain private (fee-for-service) practices in addition to NHS practices, and many do so. A relationship may be established with a local physician as a private patient in much the same manner as in the U.S. Many British physicians accept payment under U.S. health insurance plans. Belfast offers a high standard of medical care, including an emergency “cardiac ambulance” staffed by coronary specialists. Specialists are available at the Royal Victoria Hospital, which is the major teaching facility of Queen’s University Medical School, the City Hospital, the Ulster Clinic (mainly private care), and smaller hospitals scattered across Northern Ireland. Edinburgh has long been famous for its medical schools, and the quality of local facilities is uniformly excellent.

Community Health Living conditions in the U.K. are generally excellent; no major health hazards exist. Community sanitation standards are high and community environmental services are superior. Colds and other upper respiratory infections are common, but no more so than in comparable climates in the U.S.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS Passage, Customs & Duties A passport is required. Tourists are not obliged to obtain a visa for stays of up to six months in the United Kingdom or to enter Gibraltar. Those wishing to remain longer than one month in Gibraltar should regularize their stay with Gibraltar immigration authorities. Further information on entry requirements may be obtained from the British Embassy at 3100 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington, 652

Cities of the World DC 20008; tel.: (202) 588-7800. Inquiries may also be directed to British Consulates in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, and San Francisco. The web site of the British Embassy in the United States is http:// www. britainusa.com/consular/ embassy/embassy.asp. British customs authorities may strictly enforce regulations regarding the import or export of certain items, including material deemed likely to incite racial hatred, firearms and personal defense items such as mace or knives. It is advisable to contact the British Embassy in Washington or one of the United Kingdom's consulates in the U.S. for specific information regarding customs requirements. Air travelers to and from the United Kingdom should be aware that penalties against alcohol-related and other in-flight crimes (“air rage”) are stiff and are being enforced with prison sentences. Americans living in or visiting the United Kingdom may register at the C o n s u l a r S e c t i o n o f t h e U. S. Embassy in London, or at the U.S. Consulates General in Edinburgh or Belfast and obtain updated information on travel and security within the United Kingdom. The U.S. Embassy is located at 24 Grosvenor Square, London W1A 1AE; Telephone: in country 0207499-9000, from the U.S. 011-44-207499-9000 (24 hours); Consular Section fax: in country 0207-495-5012; from the U.S. 011-44-207-495-5012. The embassy web site is http:// www.usembassy.org.uk.

The U.S. Consulate General in Edinburgh, Scotland, is located at 3 Regent Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5BW; Telephone: in country 0131556-8315, from the U.S. 011-44-131556-8315. After hours: in country 0131-260-6495, from the U.S. 01144-131-260-6495. Fax: in country 0131-557-6023; from the U.S. 01144-131-557-6023. The web site is

h t t p : / / w w w. u s e m b a s s y. o r g. u k / scotland. The U.S. Consulate General in Belfast, Northern Ireland, is located at 14 Queen Street, Belfast BT1 6EQ; Telephone: in country 01232-328239; from the U.S. 011-44-1232-328239. After hours: in country 01232241-279, from the U.S. 011-44-1232661-629. Fax: in country 01232-248482, from the U.S. 011-44-1232-248482. There is no U.S. consular representation in Gibraltar. Citizen services questions should be directed to the U.S. Embassy in London. Passport questions can be directed to the U.S. Embassy in Madrid, located at Serrano 75/Madrid, Spain; telephone (34)(91) 587-2200, and fax (34)(91) 587-2303.

Pets There is a concerted effort on the part of the U.K. Government to prevent the entry of rabies into the U.K. All dogs, cats, and other mammals entering Britain must undergo 6 calendar months’ quarantine in government-approved kennels. No exceptions are made to this rule. If you desire to import a pet, write 6– 10 weeks before departure to: Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food Hook Rise South Tolworth Surbiton, Surrey KT6 7HF Application forms will be sent by return mail.

Currency, Banking and Weights and Measures The pound is divided into 100 pence (pennies). All transactions are made by using coins in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 pence, and one pound, and bills in denominations of 5, 10, 20, and 50 pounds. The British pound is on a floating rate of exchange against the U.S. dollar. It currently falls in the range of £.684=$1.00 (May 2002). The British use the avoirdupois weight system. Most items are mea-

United Kingdom

Cities of the World sured in ounces and pounds. H u m a n w e i g h t , h o w e v e r, i s expressed in stones (1 stone= 14 lbs.). Many food items are imported from other EU countries, so most grocery stores mark items in both the metric and the avoirdupois systems. The imperial gallon is onefifth larger than the American gallon. Road distance and speed are m e a s u r e d i n m i l e s, n o t i n kilometers. No monetary controls are imposed for importation or exportation of British or foreign currencies. Travelers checks are widely accepted throughout Great Britain. Credit cards are widely used in Great Britain and are readily available from several sources. Most large stores and restaurants accept major credit cards. U.S. ATM bank cards connected to major systems, such as Plus or Cirrus, are accepted by U.K. bank cash machines for pounds at a favorable exchange rate.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Nov. 11). . . . . . . . . Remembrance Day* Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . Armistice Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day

Northern Ireland Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . Mar. 17 . . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . .

New Year's Day St. Patrick's Day Good Friday* Easter* Easter Monday* Easter Tuesday*

May (1st Monday) . . . . May Day* May (4th Monday) . . . . Spring Bank Holiday July (2nd Friday) . . . . . Orangemen's Day Aug. (4th Monday) . . . . Summer Bank Holiday Oct. 31 . . . . . . . . . Halloween Nov. (Sun closest to Nov. 11). . . . . . . . . Remembrance Day* Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . Armistice Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas Day Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . Boxing Day

Scotland England & Wales Jan. 1. . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Mar. 1 . . . . . . . . . . St. David’s Day (Wales) Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* Apr. 1. . . . . . . . . . . April Fool’s Day Apr. 21 . . . . . . . . . . Queen’s Birthday Apr. 23 . . . . . . . . . . St. George’s Day (England) May (1st Monday) . . . . . May Day* May (4th Monday). . . . . Spring Bank Holiday* Aug. (4th Monday). . . . . Summer Bank Holiday* Oct. 31 . . . . . . . . . . Halloween Nov. 5. . . . . . . . . . . Guy Fawkes Day Nov. (Sun closest to

Jan. 1 . . . . . . . . . . New Year's Day Jan. 2 . . . . . . . . . . Bank Holiday Jan. 25 . . . . . . . . . Burn’s Night (birth of Robert Burns) Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Good Friday* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter* Mar/Apr. . . . . . . . . Easter Monday* May (1st Monday) . . . . May Day* May (3rd Monday) . . . . Victoria Day* Aug. (1st Monday) . . . . Summer Bank* Holiday Sept. (3rd Monday) . . . . Autumn Holiday* Nov. (Sun closest to Nov. 11). . . . . . . . . Remembrance Day* Nov. 11 . . . . . . . . . Armistice Day Nov. 30 . . . . . . . . . St. Andrew’s Day Dec. 25 . . . . . . . . . Christmas

Dec. 26 . . . . . . . . . .Boxing Day *variable

RECOMMENDED READING These titles are provided as a general indication of the material publ i s h e d o n t h i s c o u n t r y. T h e Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications. Great Britain Arnold, Eve. The Great British. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1991. Barnett, Correlli. The Collapse of British Power. Sutton: 1984 Birnbaum, Stephen. Birnbaum’s Great Britain. Boston: HoughtonMifflin, 1991. Britain 1995: An Official Handbook. Compiled by H.M. Central Office of Information. H.M. Stationery Office. (Published annually). Cannon, John, and Ralph Griffiths. The Oxford Illustrated History of the British Monarchy. New York: Oxford University Press, 1988. Churchill, Winston. A History of the English Speaking Peoples. Cassell: 1967. Fodor’s Great Britain: England, Scotland, and Wales. New York: David McKay, latest edition. Gamble, Andrew. Britain in Decline. Macmillan: 1985 Grote, David. British English for American Readers: A Dictionary of the Language, Customs, and Places of British Life and Literature. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992. Halsey, A.H., ed. Changes in British Society. Oxford: 1981. Kamm, Anthony. Britain and Her People. Avenal, NJ: Outlet Books, 1990. Laing, Lloyd, and Jennifer Laing. Celtic Britain and Ireland, A.D. 200–800: The Myth of the Dark Ages. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1990. 653

United Kingdom Louis and Bul, ed. The Special Relationship. Oxford: 1986.

Ryder, J. and H. Silver. Modern English Society. Methuen: 1985.

Islands of Scotland. New York: Rizzoli International, 1991.

Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland. Compiled by the Michelin Tire Co., Ltd. (published annually)

Northern Ireland Darby, John, ed. Northern Ireland: The Background to the Conflict. Syracuse, NY: Syracuse University Press, 1987.

Mackie, J. D. A History of Scotland. Penguin: 1978.

Moss, Norman. A British/American Dictionary. Hutchinson: 1994. Ousby, Ian. The Engli shman’s England: Taste, Travel, and the Rise of Tourism. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1990. Sampson, Anthony. The Changing Anatomy of Britain. Hodder: 1993. Young, Hugo. One of Us: Macmillan: 1989. England England and Wales 1992. New York: Berlitz, 1992.

654

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Johnstone, Robert. Belfast: Portraits of a City. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square, 1991. Meyer, Caroline. Voices of Northern Ireland: Growing Up in a Troubled Land. San Diego: Harcourt Brace Jovanivich, 1992. Ulster Year Book, Government of Northern Ireland. H.M. Stationery office. (published annually) Wallace, Martin. British Government in Northern Ireland—From Devolution to Direct Role. David and Charles: 1982.

Fritze, Ronald H., ed. Historical Dictionary of Tudor England: 1485–1603. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1991.

Scotland Fodor’s Scotland. New York: David McKay, latest edition.

Quincy, Anthony. The English Country Town. New York: Thames & Hudson, 1987.

Galbraith, John K enneth. The Scotch. Boston: Houghton-Mifflin, 1985.

Rossiter, S. Blue Guide—England. E. Benn Ltd.: 1980

MacDonald, Angus, and Patricia MacDonald. The Highlands and

MacSwean, Ann, and Mick Sharp. Prehistoric Scotland. New York: New Amsterdam Books, 1990. Mitchison, Rosalind. A History of Scotland. Methuen and Co.: 1982. Prebble, John. The Lion in the North. Seckler and Warburg: 1971. Simpson, W. Douglas. The Ancient Stones of Scotland. Hale: 1968. Turncock, David. The New Scotland. David and Charles Ltd: 1979. Wales England and Wales 1992 Travellers Guide. New York: Berlitz, 1992. Morris, Jan. The Matter of Wales: Epic Views of a Small Country. New York: Oxford University Press, 1986. Thomas, Dylan. A Child’s Christmas in Wales. New York: New Directions, 1969.

INDEX

A Aachen, Germany 3:208 Aalst, Belgium 3:50 Aba, Nigeria 1:444 Ábádán, Iran 4:215 Abéché, Chad 1:108 Abemama, Kiribati 4:276 Abeokuta, Nigeria 1:444 Aberdeen, United Kingdom 3:646 Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire 1:147–1:152 Aboisso, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Abomey, Benin 1:31 Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates (UAE) 4:638–4:640 Abuja, Nigeria 1:438–1:439 Abu-Simbel, Egypt 1:176 Acajutla, El Salvador 2:271 Acapulco, Mexico 2:387 Accra, Ghana 1:237–1:240 Acre, Israel 3:289 Adana, Turkey 3:600–3:602 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia 1:203–1:206 Adelaide, Australia 4:41–4:42 Aden, Yemen 4:684 Ado, Nigeria 1:444 Afghanistan 4:3–4:12 Bághlán 4:5 Ghazni 4:5 Herát 4:5 Kabul 4:3–4:5 Kandahár 4:5 Mazár-i-Sharìf 4:6 Agadez, Niger 1:427 Agadir, Morocco 1:385 Agboville, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Agra, India 4:183 Aguascalientes, Mexico 2:387 Ahmadabad, India 4:183 Ahmadi, Kuwait 4:309 Ahuachapán, El Salvador 2:271 Aix-en-Provence, France 3:173 Ajka, Hungary 3:247

Akhmim, Egypt 1:176 Akranes, Iceland 3:259 Akureyri, Iceland 3:259 Al-Ain, United Arab Emirates (UAE) 4:641 Alajuela, Costa Rica 2:206 Albania 3:3–3:9 Berat 3:5 Durrës 3:4 Elbasan 3:5 Gjirokastër 3:5 Korçë 3:5 Shkodër 3:4–3:5 Tiranë 3:3–3:4 Vlorë 3:6 Al Baörah, Iraq 4:225–4:226 Albina, Suriname 2:493 Ålborg, Denmark 3:121 Alençon, France 3:173 Aleppo, Syria 4:575–4:576 Ålesund, Norway 3:432 Alexandria, Egypt 1:174–1:175 Algeria 1:3–1:16 Algiers 1:7 Annaba 1:9 Batna 1:9 Béchar 1:9 Bejaia 1:9 Biskra 1:10 Blida 1:10 Constantine 1:9 Djelfa 1:10 I-n-Salah 1:10 Médéa 1:10 Oran 1:7–1:9 Ouargla 1:10 Saïda 1:10 Sétif 1:10 Sidi-Bel-Abbes 1:10 Skikda 1:10 Tamanrasset 1:11 Tiaret 1:11 Tindouf 1:11

Tlemcen 1:11 Touggourt 1:11 Algiers, Algeria 1:7 Alice Springs, Australia 4:43 Al-Khiran, Kuwait 4:309 Alkmaar, Netherlands 3:415 Al-Madinah, Saudi Arabia 4:530 Almaty, Kazakstan 4:269–4:270 Al Mawöil, Iraq 4:226 Al-Mukallá, Yemen 4:685 Alor Setar, Malaysia 4:341 Amapala, Honduras 2:332 Amarapura, Myanmar 4:390 Amatitlán, Guatemala 2:296 Ambato, Ecuador 2:257 Ambon, Indonesia 4:204 Amersfoort, Netherlands 3:415 Amiens, France 3:173 Amman, Jordan 3:327–3:330 Amsterdam, Netherlands 3:409–3:410 Anápolis, Brazil 2:112 Anderlecht, Belgium 3:50 Andizhan, Uzbekistan 4:652 Andorra 3:11–3:13 Andorra la Vella 3:11–3:12 Encamp 3:12 Andorra la Vella, Andorra 3:11–3:12 Aného, Togo 1:565 Angers, France 3:173 Angkor, Cambodia 4:98 Angola 1:17–1:27 Benguela 1:20 Cabinda 1:20 Cassinga 1:20 Huambo 1:20 Lobito 1:20 Lobito 1:20 Luanda 1:18–1:20 Luanda 1:20 Malanje 1:18 Namibe 1:20 Angoulême, France 3:173 Ankara, Turkey 3:592–3:596

655

Index Annaba, Algeria 1:9 An Najaf, Iraq 4:226 Annecy, France 3:174 Anshan, China 4:133 Antalya, Turkey 3:604 Antananarivo, Madagascar 1:309–1:313 Antigonish, Canada 2:148 Antigua and Barbuda 2:3–2:11 St. John’s 2:3–2:6 Antigua, Guatemala 2:295 Antilles see Netherlands Antilles Antofagasta, Chile 2:167 Antsirabé, Madagascar 1:313 Antsiranana, Madagascar 1:313 Antwerp, Belgium 3:47 Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka 4:561 Apeldoorn, Netherlands 3:415 Apia, Samoa 4:515–4:516 Aracaju, Brazil 2:112 Arad, Romania 3:476 Arbil, Iraq 4:226 Arendal, Norway 3:432 Arequipa, Peru 2:464 Argentina 2:13–2:27 Avellaneda 2:20 Bahía Blanca 2:20 Buenos Aires 2:13–2:18 Catamarca 2:20 Comodoro Rivadavia 2:21 Concordia 2:21 Córdoba 2:18–2:19 Corrientes 2:21 Godoy Cruz 2:21 La Plata 2:19 Mar del Plata 2:20 Mendoza 2:19 Paraná 2:21 Posadas 2:21 Resistencia 2:21 Río Cuarto 2:21 Rosario 2:19 Salta 2:20 San Juan 2:21 San Miguel de Tucumán 2:19–2:20 Santa Fe 2:21 Århus, Denmark 3:120 Arica, Chile 2:167 Arima, Trinidad and Tobago 2:506 Arles, France 3:174 Armagh, United Kingdom 3:646 Armenia 4:13–4:25 Arzni 4:17 Ashtarak 4:17 Echmiadzin 4:17 Kumayri 4:18 Leninakan 4:18 Yerevan 4:14–4:17 Armenia, Colombia 2:190 Arnhem, Netherlands 3:415 Arosa, Switzerland 3:582 Ar Ramádi, Iraq 4:226 Arras, France 3:174 Arusha, Tanzania 1:552 Arzni, Armenia 4:17 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan 4:623–4:625 Ashtarak, Armenia 4:17 Asmara, Eritrea 1:192–1:195

656

Cities of the World Assinie, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Assouinde, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Astana, Kazakstan 4:270 Asunción, Paraguay 2:443–2:448 Aswan, Egypt 1:175 Asyût, Egypt 1:176 Atakpamé, Togo 1:566 Atar, Mauritania 1:356 Atbarah, Sudan 1:530 Athens, Greece 3:222–3:228 Auch, France 3:174 Auckland, New Zealand 4:421–4:423 Augsburg, Germany 3:208–3:209 Auki, Solomon Islands 4:552 Aurillac, France 3:174 Australia 4:27–4:51 Adelaide 4:41–4:42 Alice Springs 4:43 Brisbane 4:31–4:34 Canberra 4:27–4:31 Darwin 4:43 Fremantle 4:43 Geelong 4:44 Gold Coast 4:44 Hobart 4:42–4:43 Melbourne 4:34–4:37 Newcastle 4:44 Perth 4:37–4:39 Sydney 4:39–4:41 Wollongong 4:44 Austria 3:15–3:29 Baden 3:23 Bregenz 3:23 Dornbirn 3:23 Eisenstadt 3:23 Enns 3:24 Graz 3:22 Innsbruck 3:21–3:22 Klagenfurt 3:24 Leoben 3:24 Linz 3:22–3:23 Salzburg 3:20–3:21 Steyr 3:24 Vienna 3:15–3:20 Villach 3:24 Wels 3:24 Wiener Neustadt 3:24 Auxerre, France 3:174 Aveiro, Portugal 3:465 Avellaneda, Argentina 2:20 Avignon, France 3:175 Axum, Ethiopia 1:206 Azerbaijan 4:53–4:57 Baku 4:53–4:54 Gyandzha 4:54 Mingechaur 4:54 Nakhichevan 4:54 Shemakha 4:54 Sumgait 4:54 Azogues, Ecuador 2:257 Azua, Dominican Republic 2:238

B Baa Atoll, Maldives 4:350 Babahoyo, Ecuador 2:257 Bacàu, Romania 3:476

Bacolod, Philippines 4:495 Badajoz, Spain 3:548 Badalona, Spain 3:548 Baden, Austria 3:23 Bafata, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Bafoussam, Cameroon 1:78 Bagamoyo, Tanzania 1:552 Baghdád, Iraq 4:223–4:225 Bághlán, Afghanistan 4:5 Baguio, Philippines 4:493–4:494 Bahamas 2:29–2:41 Freeport 2:33–2:35 Grand Bahama Island 2:33–2:35 Nassau 2:29–2:33 Bahawalpur, Pakistan 4:454 Bahía Blanca, Argentina 2:20 Bahrain 4:59–4:67 Manama 4:60–4:62 Baia Mare, Romania 3:476 Baja, Hungary 3:247 Bakhtaran, Iran 4:215 Baku, Azerbaijan 4:53–4:54 Balboa, Panama 2:433 Bamako, Mali 1:333–1:341 Bambari, Central African Republic 1:100 Bandar Abbas, Iran 4:215 Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei 4:87– 4:89 Bandung, Indonesia 4:204 Bangalore, India 4:183 Bangassou, Central African Republic 1:100 Bangkok, Thailand 4:603–4:608 Bangladesh 4:69–4:80 Barisal 4:74 Chittagong 4:74 Comilla 4:75 Dhaka 4:69–4:74 Dinájpur 4:75 Faridpur 4:75 Jessore 4:75 Khulna 4:75 Mymensingh 4:75 Narayanganj 4:75 Pabna 4:75 Rajshahi 4:75 Rangpur 4:75 Sirájganj 4:75 Sylhet 4:75 Bangui, Central African Republic 1:97– 1:100 Baní, Dominican Republic 2:238 Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:59 Banjul, Gambia 1:227–1:230 Banská Bystrica, Slovakia 3:521 Barahona, Dominican Republic 2:238 Barbados 2:43–2:51 Bridgetown 2:43–2:46 Barcelona, Spain 3:543–3:544 Bari, Italy 3:317 Barisal, Bangladesh 4:74 Baroda, India 4:183 Barquisimeto, Venezuela 2:542 Barranquilla, Colombia 2:186–2:189 Bar, Serbia and Montenegro 3:511 Bartica, Guyana 2:308

Index

Cities of the World Basel, Switzerland 3:580–3:581 Bassein, Myanmar 4:391 Basse-Terre, Martinique 2:361 Basseterre, St. Kitts and Nevis 2:475 Batangas, Philippines 4:495 Bath, Jamaica 2:349 Batna, Algeria 1:9 Battambang, Cambodia 4:99 Batumi, Georgia 4:163 Bayamo, Cuba 2:218 Beau Bassin-Rose Hill, Mauritius 1:366 Beauvais, France 3:175 Béchar, Algeria 1:9 Beersheba, Israel 3:290 Beijing, China 4:109–4:114 Beira, Mozambique 1:396 Beirut, Lebanon 3:349 Bejaia, Algeria 1:9 Béja, Tunisia 1:581 Belarus 3:31–3:39 Brest 3:33 Gomel 3:33 Grodno 3:33 Minsk 3:31–3:33 Mogilëv 3:33 Vitebsk 3:33 Belém, Brazil 2:111 Belfast, United Kingdom 3:638–3:641 Belfort, France 3:175 Belgium 3:41–3:56 Aalst 3:50 Anderlecht 3:50 Antwerp 3:47 Bruges 3:49–3:50 Brussels 3:41–3:47 Charleroi 3:50 Geel 3:50 Ghent 3:48–3:49 Kortrijk 3:50 Liège 3:47–3:48 Louvain 3:50 Mechlin 3:51 Mons 3:51 Namur 3:52 Ostend 3:52 Tournai 3:52 Verviers 3:52 Waterloo 3:52 Belgrade, Serbia and Montenegro 3:509–3:511 Belize 2:53–2:61 Belize City 2:54–2:57 Belmopan 2:53–2:54 Dangriga 2:57 Orange Walk 2:57 Punta Gorda 2:57 San Ignacio 2:57 Belize City, Belize 2:54–2:57 Bello, Colombia 2:190 Belmopan, Belize 2:53–2:54 Belo Horizonte, Brazil 2:109–2:111 Beltsy, Moldova 3:397 Bendery, Moldova 3:397 Benghazi, Libya 1:303 Benguela, Angola 1:20 Beni Suef, Egypt 1:176 Benin 1:29–1:35

Abomey 1:31 Cotonou 1:29–1:30 Ouidah 1:31 Parakou 1:31 Porto Novo 1:30–1:31 Benin City, Nigeria 1:444 Benoni, South Africa 1:515 Berat, Albania 3:5 Berbera, Somalia 1:499 Bergamo, Italy 3:317 Bergen, Norway 3:428–3:429 Berlin, Germany 3:190–3:193 Bermuda 2:63–2:73 Hamilton 2:63–2:65 St. George 2:65 Bern, Switzerland 3:573–3:576 Bertoua, Cameroon 1:78 Besançon, France 3:175 Bethlehem, Israel 3:290 Bhairawa, Nepal 4:408 Bhaktapur, Nepal 4:408 Bhamo, Myanmar 4:391 Bhopal, India 4:183 Bhutan 4:81–4:85 Paro 4:82 Punakha 4:82 Thimphu 4:81–4:82 Tongsa 4:82 Bielefeld, Germany 3:209 Bielsko-Biala, Poland 3:450 Biel, Switzerland 3:582 Bihaé, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:59 Bilbao, Spain 3:546–3:547 Bingerville, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Birátnagar, Nepal 4:409 Birganj, Nepal 4:409 Birkirkara, Malta 3:387 Birmingham, United Kingdom 3:644 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan 4:315–4:318 Biskra, Algeria 1:10 Bissau, Guinea-Bissau 1:259–1:261 Bitola, Macedonia 3:381 Bizerta, Tunisia 1:581 Black River, Jamaica 2:349 Blantyre, Malawi 1:326–1:327 Blida, Algeria 1:10 Bloemfontein, South Africa 1:515 Blois, France 3:175 Bobo-Dioulasso, Burkina Faso 1:53 Bochum, Germany 3:208 Bodo, Norway 3:432 Boké, Guinea 1:253 Boksburg, South Africa 1:515 Bolama, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Bolgatanga, Ghana 1:241 Bolivia 2:75–2:87 Cochabamba 2:81 La Paz 2:75–2:80 Oruro 2:81 Potosí 2:81 Santa Cruz 2:80–2:81 Sucre 2:81 Tarija 2:81 Trinidad 2:81 Bologna, Italy 3:316–3:317 Boma, Congo 1:128 Bombay, India see Mumbai, India

Bondoukou, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Bongor, Chad 1:108 Bonn, Germany 3:187–3:190 Bonny, Nigeria 1:444 Bordeaux, France 3:160–3:163 Bo, Sierra Leone 1:490 Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:57–3:61 Banja Luka 3:59 Bihaé 3:59 Jajce 3:59 Mostar 3:59 Sarajevo 3:57–3:59 Tuzla 3:59 Botswana 1:37–1:49 Francistown 1:43 Gaborone 1:37–1:42 Kanye 1:43 Lobatse 1:43 Mahalapye 1:43 Selebi-Phikwe 1:42–1:43 Serowe 1:43 Bottom, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Bouaké, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Bouar, Central African Republic 1:100 Boulogne-Billancourt, France 3:176 Boulogne, France 3:175 Bourg, France 3:176 Bourges, France 3:176 Boutilimit, Mauritania 1:356 Braga, Portugal 3:466 Bràila, Romania 3:476 Brampton, Canada 2:149 Brantford, Canada 2:149 Braöov, Romania 3:475 Brasilia, Brazil 2:89–2:93 Bratislava, Slovakia 3:517–3:521 Brazil 2:89–2:121 Anápolis 2:112 Aracaju 2:112 Belém 2:111 Belo Horizonte 2:109–2:111 Brasilia 2:89–2:93 Campina Grande 2:112 Campinas 2:112 Campo Grande 2:112 Caxias do Sul 2:112 Corumbá 2:112 Curitiba 2:111–2:112 Florianópolis 2:112 Fortaleza 2:111 Goiânia 2:112 João Pessoa 2:113 Juiz de Fora 2:113 Maceió 2:113 Manaus 2:111 Natal 2:113 Olinda 2:113 Ouro Prêto 2:113 Pôrto Alegre 2:106–2:107 Recife 2:102–2:106 Ribeirão Prêto 2:113 Rio De Janeiro 2:94–2:97 Salvador Da Bahia 2:107–2:109 Santos 2:113 São Paulo 2:97–2:102 Brazzaville, Congo (Brazzaville) 1:137 Breda, Netherlands 3:415

657

Index Bregenz, Austria 3:23 Bremen, Germany 3:202–3:203 Brescia, Italy 3:318 Bressanone, Italy 3:318 Brest, Belarus 3:33 Brest, France 3:176 Bria, Central African Republic 1:100 Bridgetown, Barbados 2:43–2:46 Brisbane, Australia 4:31–4:34 Bristol, United Kingdom 3:646 Brno, Czech Republic 3:108 Bruges, Belgium 3:49–3:50 Brunei 4:87–4:94 Bandar Seri Begawan 4:87–4:89 Jerudong 4:89 Kuala Belait 4:90 Seria 4:90 Brunswick, Germany 3:209 Brussels, Belgium 3:41–3:47 Bucaramanga, Colombia 2:189–2:190 Buchanan, Liberia 1:294 Bucharest, Romania 3:473–3:475 Budapest, Hungary 3:243–3:246 Buea, Cameroon 1:78 Buenaventura, Colombia 2:190 Buenos Aires, Argentina 2:13–2:18 Bujumbura, Burundi 1:61–1:65 Bukavu, Congo 1:127–1:128 Bukhara, Uzbekistan 4:652 Bukoba, Tanzania 1:552 Bulawayo, Zimbabwe 1:612 Bulgaria 3:63–3:74 Burgas 3:67 Pleven 3:67 Plovdiv 3:67 Ruse 3:67 Shumen 3:68 Sliven 3:68 Sofia 3:64–3:67 Stara Zagora 3:68 Tolbukhin 3:68 Varna 3:67 Burgas, Bulgaria 3:67 Burgos, Spain 3:548 Burkina Faso 1:51–1:59 Bobo-Dioulasso 1:53 Koudougou 1:53 Ouagadougou 1:51–1:53 Ouahigouya 1:54 Burma see Myanmar Bursa, Turkey 3:604 Burundi 1:61–1:69 Bujumbura 1:61–1:65 Bururi 1:65 Gitega 1:65 Ngozi 1:65 Bururi, Burundi 1:65 Bussum, Netherlands 3:416 Butare, Rwanda 1:456 Butaritari, Kiribati 4:276 Butha-Buthe, Lesotho 1:284 Butuan, Philippines 4:495 Buzàu, Romania 3:476 Bydgoszcz, Poland 3:450

658

Cities of the World

C Caacupé, Paraguay 2:448 Caazapá, Paraguay 2:449 Cabinda, Angola 1:20 Cacheu, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Cádiz, Spain 3:549 Caen, France 3:170 Cagliari, Italy 3:318 Caicos Islands see Turks and Caicos Islands Cairo, Egypt 1:169–1:174 Cajamarca, Peru 2:464 Calabar, Nigeria 1:444 Calcutta, India 4:175–4:177 Calgary, Canada 2:138–2:141 Cali, Colombia 2:185–2:186 Callao, Peru 2:464 Camagüey, Cuba 2:218 Cambodia 4:95–4:108 Angkor 4:98 Battambang 4:99 Kampong Cham 4:99 Kampong Chhnang 4:100 Kampong Saom 4:100 Kampot 4:100 Koh Kong 4:100 Kratie 4:100 Phnom Penh 4:95–4:98 Pursat 4:100 Siem Reap 4:100 Cameroon 1:71–1:85 Bafoussam 1:78 Bertoua 1:78 Buea 1:78 Douala 1:75–1:78 Dschang 1:78 Ebolowa 1:78 Edéa 1:78 Foumban 1:78 Garoua 1:78 Kumba 1:78 Maroua 1:78 Ngaoundéré 1:78 Nkongsamba 1:79 Yaounde 1:71–1:75 Campeche, Mexico 2:388 Campina Grande, Brazil 2:112 Campinas, Brazil 2:112 Campo Grande, Brazil 2:112 Canada 2:123–2:159 Antigonish 2:148 Brampton 2:149 Brantford 2:149 Calgary 2:138–2:141 Charlottetown 2:149 Dawson 2:149 Edmonton 2:146–2:147 Fredericton 2:149 Gander 2:149 Guelph 2:149 Halifax 2:141–2:144 Hamilton 2:146 Kingston 2:150 Kitchener 2:150 London 2:147 Medicine Hat 2:150

Montreal 2:130–2:133 Niagara Falls 2:150 Niagara-on-the-Lake 2:150 North Bay 2:150 Oakville 2:151 Oshawa 2:151 Ottawa 2:123–2:127 Peterborough 2:151 Prince Albert 2:151 Prince George 2:151 Quebec 2:133–2:136 Regina 2:146 Saint Catherines 2:151 Saint John 2:151 Saint John’s 2:147–2:148 Sarnia 2:152 Saskatoon 2:152 Sault Sainte Marie 2:152 Stratford 2:152 Sudbury 2:152 Thetford Mines 2:153 Thompson 2:153 Thunder Bay 2:153 Toronto 2:127–2:130 Trois Rivières 2:153 Vancouver 2:136–2:138 Victoria 2:148 Whitehorse 2:153 Windsor 2:148 Winnipeg 2:144–2:146 Yellowknife 2:153 Canberra, Australia 4:27–4:31 Canea, Greece 3:234 Cannes, France 3:176 Cape Coast, Ghana 1:241 Cape Town, South Africa 1:511–1:512 Cape Verde 1:87–1:95 Mindelo 1:90 Praia 1:87–1:90 Cap-Haïtien, Haiti 2:319 Caracas, Venezuela 2:533–2:540 Carcassonne, France 3:176 Cárdenas, Cuba 2:218 Cardiff, United Kingdom 3:646 Cartagena, Colombia 2:189 Cartagena, Spain 3:549 Cartago, Costa Rica 2:206 Casablanca, Morocco 1:376–1:380 Cashel, Ireland 3:275 Cassinga, Angola 1:20 Castellón de la Plana, Spain 3:549 Castries, Saint Lucia 2:479–2:480 Catamarca, Argentina 2:20 Catania, Italy 3:318 Cavan, Ireland 3:275 Caxias do Sul, Brazil 2:112 Cayenne, Martinique 2:362 Cebu City, Philippines 4:491–4:493 Central African Republic 1:97–1:103 Bambari 1:100 Bangassou 1:100 Bangui 1:97–1:100 Bouar 1:100 Bria 1:100 Cerro de Pasco, Peru 2:464 Èeské Budêjovice, Czech Republic 3:109 Cetinje, Serbia and Montenegro 3:511

Index

Cities of the World Ceuta, Morocco 1:385 Chad 1:105–1:114 Abéché 1:108 Bongor 1:108 Faya 1:108 Moundou 1:108 N’Djamena 1:105–1:108 Sarh 1:108 Chaguanas, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 Chardzhou, Turkmenistan 4:625 Charleroi, Belgium 3:50 Charlestown, St. Kitts and Nevis 2:475 Charlotte Town, Grenada see Gouyave, Grenada Charlottetown, Canada 2:149 Châteaubriant, France 3:176 Châteaudun, France 3:177 Cheju, Korea (South) 4:296 Chemnitz, Germany 3:209 Cheng-chou, China 4:133 Chengdu, China 4:131–4:132, 4:134 Chennai (Madras), India 4:178–4:180 Chiai, Taiwan 4:588 Chiang Mai, Thailand 4:608–4:610 Chiba, Japan 4:254 Chichicastenango, Guatemala 2:296 Chiclayo, Peru 2:464 Chihuahua, Mexico 2:388 Chile 2:161–2:175 Antofagasta 2:167 Arica 2:167 Chillán 2:167 Chuquicamata 2:168 Concepción 2:166–2:167 Iquique 2:168 La Serena 2:168 Puerto Montt 2:168 Punta Arenas 2:168 Santiago 2:161–2:166 Talca 2:168 Talcahuano 2:168 Temuco 2:168 Valdivia 2:169 Valparaíso 2:166 Viña del Mar 2:166 Chillán, Chile 2:167 Chimaltenango, Guatemala 2:296 Chimbote, Peru 2:464 Chimkent, Kazakstan 4:270 China 4:109–4:146 Anshan 4:133 Beijing 4:109–4:114 Cheng-chou 4:133 Chengdu 4:131–4:132, 4:134 Chongqing 4:133 Fuzhou 4:134 Guangzhou 4:126–4:129 Guilin 4:134 Guiyang 4:134 Hangzhou 4:134 Harbin 4:133 Hong Kong 4:114–4:126 Lüda 4:134 Macau 4:135 Nanjing 4:132–4:133 Shanghai 4:129–4:130 Shenyang 4:130–4:131

Suzhou 4:134 Tianjin 4:134 Tibet 4:135 Wuhan 4:133 Xi’an 4:135 Yangshuo 4:135 Zibo 4:135 Chinandega, Nicaragua 2:420 Chingola, Zambia 1:602 Chinguetti, Mauritania 1:356 Chiquimula, Guatemala 2:296 Chisinau, Moldova 3:396–3:397 Chitré, Panama 2:433 Chittagong, Bangladesh 4:74 Chongjin, Korea (North) 4:281 Chongqing, China 4:133 Choybalsan, Mongolia 4:378 Christchurch, New Zealand 4:423– 4:424 Chungli, Taiwan 4:588 Chuquicamata, Chile 2:168 Chur, Switzerland 3:582 Chuuk Atoll, Micronesia 4:369 Ciego de Ávila, Cuba 2:218 Cienfuegos, Cuba 2:218 Ciudad Bolívar, Venezuela 2:542 Ciudad del Este, Paraguay 2:449 Ciudad Juárez, Mexico 2:379–2:381 Ciudad Obregón, Mexico 2:388 Clermont-Ferrand, France 3:177 Clervaux, Luxembourg 3:373 Cluj-Napoca, Romania 3:476 Cobán, Guatemala 2:297 Cóbh, Ireland 3:275 Cochabamba, Bolivia 2:81 Coimbatore, India 4:184 Coimbra, Portugal 3:465 Cojutepeque, El Salvador 2:271 Colmar, France 3:177 Cologne, Germany 3:204–3:205 Colombia 2:177–2:199 Armenia 2:190 Barranquilla 2:186–2:189 Bello 2:190 Bucaramanga 2:189–2:190 Buenaventura 2:190 Cali 2:185–2:186 Cartagena 2:189 Cúcutu 2:190 Girardot 2:190 Itagüi 2:190 Leticia 2:190 Manizales 2:190 Medellín 2:182–2:185 Montería 2:190 Neiva 2:191 Palmira 2:191 Pasto 2:191 Popayán 2:191 Santa Marta 2:191 Santafe de Bogota 2:177–2:182 Tuluá 2:191 Tumaco 2:191 Tunja 2:191 Valledupar 2:191 Villavicencio 2:192 Colombo, Sri Lanka 4:557–4:560

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay 2:524 Colonia Tovar, Venezuela 2:542 Colón, Panama 2:433 Comayagua, Honduras 2:332 Comilla, Bangladesh 4:75 Comodoro Rivadavia, Argentina 2:21 Comoros 1:115–1:121 Moroni 1:115–1:116 Mutsamudu 1:116 Conakry, Guinea 1:251–1:252 Concepción, Chile 2:166–2:167 Concepción, Paraguay 2:449 Concordia, Argentina 2:21 Congo (Brazzaville) 1:137–1:145 Brazzaville 1:137 Loubomo 1:141 Nkayi 1:141 Pointe-Noire 1:141 Congo, Democratic Republic of see Congo (Kinshasa) Congo (Kinshasa) 1:123–1:135 Boma 1:128 Bukavu 1:127–1:128 Kananga 1:128 Kinshasa 1:123–1:126 Kisangani 1:128 Kolwezi 1:128 Lubumbashi 1:126–1:127 Mbandaka 1:128 Mbuji-Mayi 1:128 Congo, Republic of see Congo (Brazzaville) Constan÷a, Romania 3:475 Constantine, Algeria 1:9 Constanza, Dominican Republic 2:238 Copán, Honduras 2:332 Copenhagen, Denmark 3:117–3:120 Córdoba, Argentina 2:18–2:19 Córdoba, Spain 3:549 Corfu, Greece 3:234 Corinth, Greece 3:234 Corinto, Nicaragua 2:420 Cork, Ireland 3:273–3:274 Coronel Oviedo, Paraguay 2:449 Corrientes, Argentina 2:21 Corriverton, Guyana 2:308 Corumbá, Brazil 2:112 Costa Rica 2:201–2:213 Alajuela 2:206 Cartago 2:206 Golfito 2:207 Heredia 2:207 Liberia 2:207 Limón 2:207 Puntarenas 2:207 San Jose 2:202–2:206 Côte d’Ivoire 1:147–1:160 Abidjan 1:147–1:152 Aboisso 1:152 Agboville 1:152 Assinie 1:152 Assouinde 1:152 Bingerville 1:153 Bondoukou 1:153 Bouaké 1:152 Korhogo 1:153 Man 1:153

659

Index San Pedro 1:153 Sassandra 1:153 Yamoussoukro 1:152 Cotonou, Benin 1:29–1:30 Coventry, United Kingdom 3:646 Covilhã, Portugal 3:466 Coyoacán, Mexico 2:388 Craiova, Romania 3:476 Cristóbal, Panama 2:433 Croatia 3:75–3:89 Dubrovnik 3:82 Karlovac 3:82 Osijek 3:82 Pula 3:82 Rijeka 3:82 Split 3:83 Zadar 3:83 Zagreb 3:75–3:82 Cuba 2:215–2:226 Bayamo 2:218 Camagüey 2:218 Cárdenas 2:218 Ciego de Ávila 2:218 Cienfuegos 2:218 Guantánamo 2:219 Havana 2:215–2:218 Holguín 2:219 Matanzas 2:219 Santa Clara 2:219 Santiago de Cuba 2:218 Trinidad 2:219 Cúcutu, Colombia 2:190 Cuenca, Ecuador 2:257 Cuernavaca, Mexico 2:388 Culiacán, Mexico 2:389 Cumaná, Venezuela 2:542 Curaçao, Netherlands Antilles 2:405– 2:409 Curepipe, Mauritius 1:365–1:366 Curitiba, Brazil 2:111–2:112 Cuzco, Peru 2:465 Cyangugu, Rwanda 1:456 Cyprus 3:91–3:101 Famagusta 3:97 Kyrenia 3:97 Larnaca 3:97 Limassol 3:96–3:97 Nicosia 3:91–3:96 Paphos 3:97 Salamis 3:97 Czech Republic 3:103–3:115 Brno 3:108 Èeské Budêjovice 3:109 Frýdek-místek 3:110 Hradec Kráové 3:110 Liberec 3:110 Olomouc 3:109 Ostrava 3:108 Pardubice 3:110 Plzeð 3:108–3:109 Prague 3:103–3:108 Ústí Nad Labem 3:110 Zlín 3:110 Czechoslovakia see Czech Republic, Slovakia Czëstochowa, Poland 3:450

660

Cities of the World

D Dakar, Senegal 1:467–1:472 Dalat, Vietnam 4:671 Damascus, Syria 4:571–4:575 Da Nang, Vietnam 4:669–4:670 Dangriga, Belize 2:57 Dapaong, Togo 1:566 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania 1:549–1:551 Darhan, Mongolia 4:379 Darnah, Libya 1:303 Darwin, Australia 4:43 Daugavpils, Latvia 3:342 Davao City, Philippines 4:494–4:495 David, Panama 2:433 Dawson, Canada 2:149 Debrecen, Hungary 3:246 Dedza, Malawi 1:327 Deir-ez-Zor, Syria 4:576 Delft, Netherlands 3:416 Denmark 3:117–3:126 Ålborg 3:121 Århus 3:120 Copenhagen 3:117–3:120 Esbjerg 3:121 Fredericia 3:122 Gentofte 3:122 Helsingør 3:122 Horsens 3:122 Kolding 3:122 Naestved 3:122 Odense 3:120–3:121 Randers 3:122 Ribe 3:122 Roskilde 3:122 Vejle 3:122 Der’á, Syria 4:576 Derna, Libya 1:303 Dessau, Germany 3:209 Dhahran, Saudi Arabia 4:525–4:527 Dhaka, Bangladesh 4:69–4:74 Dhamár, Yemen 4:685 Diekirch, Luxembourg 3:373 Differdange, Luxembourg 3:373 Dijon, France 3:177 Dinájpur, Bangladesh 4:75 Diourbel, Senegal 1:472 Dire Dawa, Ethiopia 1:207 Diriamba, Nicaragua 2:420 Djelfa, Algeria 1:10 Djenné, Mali 1:341 Djibouti 1:163–1:167 Djibouti 1:163–1:164 Djibouti, Djibouti 1:163–1:164 Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine 3:623 Dodoma, Tanzania 1:552 Doha, Qatar 4:505–4:508 Dominica 2:227–2:231 Portsmouth 2:228 Roseau 2:227–2:228 Dominican Republic 2:233–2:245 Azua 2:238 Baní 2:238 Barahona 2:238 Constanza 2:238 Higüey 2:238 La Romana 2:238

La Vega 2:239 Puerto Plata 2:239 Samaná 2:239 San Cristóbal 2:239 San Francisco de Macorís 2:239 San Juan 2:239 San Pedro de Macorís 2:239 Santiago 2:238 Santo Domingo 2:233–2:238 Donetsk, Ukraine 3:623 Dordrecht, Netherlands 3:416 Dornbirn, Austria 3:23 Dortmund, Germany 3:207–3:208 Douala, Cameroon 1:75–1:78 Dover, United Kingdom 3:646 Drammen, Norway 3:432 Dresden, Germany 3:203–3:204 Dschang, Cameroon 1:78 Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE) 4:640–4:641 Dublin, Ireland 3:267–3:273 Dubrovnik, Croatia 3:82 Dudelange, Luxembourg 3:373 Duisburg, Germany 3:206–3:207 Dunedin, New Zealand 4:424 Dún Laoghaire, Ireland 3:275 Durango, Mexico 2:389 Durban, South Africa 1:512–1:514 Durrës, Albania 3:4 Dushanbe, Tajikistan 4:593–4:595 Düsseldorf, Germany 3:201–3:202 Dzhalal-Abad, Kyrgyzstan 4:318

E Ebolowa, Cameroon 1:78 Echmiadzin, Armenia 4:17 Echternach, Luxembourg 3:373 Ecuador 2:247–2:267 Ambato 2:257 Azogues 2:257 Babahoyo 2:257 Cuenca 2:257 Esmeraldas 2:258 Guaranda 2:258 Guayaquil 2:254–2:257 Latacunga 2:258 Loja 2:258 Portoviejo 2:258 Quito 2:247–2:254 Riobamba 2:258 Tulcán 2:258 Edéa, Cameroon 1:78 Ede, Nigeria 1:444 Edinburgh, United Kingdom 3:641– 3:644 Edmonton, Canada 2:146–2:147 Eger, Hungary 3:247 Egypt 1:169–1:184 Abu-Simbel 1:176 Akhmim 1:176 Alexandria 1:174–1:175 Aswan 1:175 Asyût 1:176 Beni Suef 1:176 Cairo 1:169–1:174 Giza 1:176

Index

Cities of the World Idfu 1:176 Ismailia 1:176 Luxor 1:176 Port Said 1:176 Suez 1:176 Tanta 1:177 Zagazig 1:177 Eindhoven, Netherlands 3:414–3:415 Eisenstadt, Austria 3:23 Elat, Israel 3:290 Elbasan, Albania 3:5 Eldoret, Kenya 1:273 El-Gedaref, Sudan 1:530 El Fasher, Sudan 1:530 El Jadida, Morocco 1:385 El Salvador 2:269–2:277 Acajutla 2:271 Ahuachapán 2:271 Cojutepeque 2:271 La Libertad 2:271 La Unión 2:271 Nueva San Salvador 2:271 San Miguel 2:271 San Salvador 2:269–2:271 San Vicente 2:271 Santa Ana 2:271 Sonsonate 2:271 Zacatecoluca 2:271 Encamp, Andorra 3:12 Encarnación, Paraguay 2:448 Enns, Austria 3:24 Enschede, Netherlands 3:416 Entebbe, Uganda 1:591 Enugu, Nigeria 1:443 Equatorial Guinea 1:185–1:190 Malabo 1:185–1:186 Erdenet, Mongolia 4:379 Erfurt, Germany 3:209 Eritrea 1:191–1:201 Asmara 1:192–1:195 Keren 1:195 Esbjerg, Denmark 3:121 Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg 3:373 Esfahán, Iran 4:214–4:215 Eskiöehir, Turkey 3:605 Esmeraldas, Ecuador 2:258 Espoo, Finland 3:148 Esquipulas, Guatemala 2:297 Essen, Germany 3:209 Estelí, Nicaragua 2:420 Estonia 3:127–3:141 Hiiumaa 3:132 Narva 3:132 Saaremaa 3:132 Tallinn 3:132 Tartu 3:132 Ethiopia 1:203–1:215 Addis Ababa 1:203–1:206 Axum 1:206 Dire Dawa 1:207 Gondar 1:208 Harar 1:208 Jima 1:208 Mekele 1:208 Nazret 1:208

F Faisalabad, Pakistan 4:454 Falmouth, Jamaica 2:349 Famagusta, Cyprus 3:97 Faridpur, Bangladesh 4:75 Farim, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Faya, Chad 1:108 Fez, Morocco 1:383–1:384 Fiananrantsoa, Madagascar 1:313 Fiji 4:149–4:160 Lautoka 4:154 Levuka 4:154 Nadi 4:154 Suva 4:149–4:154 Finland 3:143–3:155 Espoo 3:148 Helsinki 3:143–3:146 Jyväskylä 3:148 Kotka 3:148 Kuopio 3:148 Lahti 3:148 Oulu 3:148 Pori 3:149 Tampere 3:146–3:148 Turku 3:148 Vaasa 3:149 Vantaa 3:149 Florence, Italy 3:304–3:306 Flores, Guatemala 2:297 Floriana, Malta 3:387 Florianópolis, Brazil 2:112 Fortaleza, Brazil 2:111 Fort-de-France, Martinique 2:359– 2:361 Foumban, Cameroon 1:78 France 3:157–3:186 Aix-en-Provence 3:173 Alençon 3:173 Amiens 3:173 Angers 3:173 Angoulême 3:173 Annecy 3:174 Arles 3:174 Arras 3:174 Auch 3:174 Aurillac 3:174 Auxerre 3:174 Avignon 3:175 Beauvais 3:175 Belfort 3:175 Besançon 3:175 Blois 3:175 Bordeaux 3:160–3:163 Boulogne 3:175 Boulogne-Billancourt 3:176 Bourg 3:176 Bourges 3:176 Brest 3:176 Caen 3:170 Cannes 3:176 Carcassonne 3:176 Châteaubriant 3:176 Châteaudun 3:177 Clermont-Ferrand 3:177 Colmar 3:177 Dijon 3:177

Grenoble 3:177 Le Havre 3:170 Le Mans 3:178 Lille 3:170–3:171 Limoges 3:178 Lourdes 3:178 Lyons 3:166–3:167 Marseille 3:163–3:164 Metz 3:178 Montpellier 3:171 Moulins 3:178 Mulhouse 3:179 Nancy 3:169–3:170 Nanterre 3:179 Nantes 3:171 Nice 3:167–3:169 Nîmes 3:179 Orléans 3:179 Paris 3:157–3:160 Pau 3:179 Perpignan 3:180 Poitiers 3:180 Reims 3:171 Rennes 3:180 Roubaix 3:180 Rouen 3:172 Saint-Brieuc 3:180 Saint-Denis 3:180 Saint-Étienne 3:180 Saint-Malo 3:181 Saint-Nazaire 3:181 Strasbourg 3:164–3:166 Toulon 3:172 Toulouse 3:172–3:173 Tourcoing 3:181 Tours 3:181 Troyes 3:181 Valence 3:181 Versailles 3:181 Franceville, Gabon 1:219 Francistown, Botswana 1:43 Frankfurt, Germany 3:193–3:194 Fray Bentos, Uruguay 2:524 Fredericia, Denmark 3:122 Fredericton, Canada 2:149 Freeport, Bahamas 2:33–2:35 Freetown, Sierra Leone 1:487–1:490 Fremantle, Australia 4:43 Fria, Guinea 1:253 Fribourg, Switzerland 3:583 Frýdek-místek, Czech Republic 3:110 Fukuoka, Japan 4:250–4:252 Funafuti, Tuvalu 4:633 Funchal, Portugal 3:466 Fuzhou, China 4:134

G Gabès, Tunisia 1:581 Gabon 1:217–1:225 Franceville 1:219 Lambaréné 1:219 Libreville 1:217–1:219 Mouanda 1:219 Oyem 1:220 Port-Gentil 1:220 Tchibanga 1:220

661

Index Gaborone, Botswana 1:37–1:42 Gabú, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Gala÷i, Romania 3:477 Galle, Sri Lanka 4:561 Galway, Ireland 3:274–3:275 Gambia 1:227–1:235 Banjul 1:227–1:230 Juffureh 1:230 Tanji 1:230 Gander, Canada 2:149 Gao, Mali 1:341 Garissa, Kenya 1:273 Garoua, Cameroon 1:78 Gaziantep, Turkey 3:605 Gbarnga, Liberia 1:294 Gdañsk, Poland 3:450 Geel, Belgium 3:50 Geelong, Australia 4:44 Gelsenkirchen, Germany 3:209 Geneva, Switzerland 3:576–3:579 Genoa, Italy 3:312–3:313 Gentofte, Denmark 3:122 Georgetown, Guyana 2:305–2:308 George Town, Malaysia 4:340–4:341 Georgia 4:161–4:167 Batumi 4:163 Kutaisi 4:163 Rustavi 4:163 Sukhumi 4:163 Tbilisi 4:161–4:163 Germany 3:187–3:219 Aachen 3:208 Augsburg 3:208–3:209 Berlin 3:190–3:193 Bielefeld 3:209 Bochum 3:208 Bonn 3:187–3:190 Bremen 3:202–3:203 Brunswick 3:209 Chemnitz 3:209 Cologne 3:204–3:205 Dessau 3:209 Dortmund 3:207–3:208 Dresden 3:203–3:204 Duisburg 3:206–3:207 Düsseldorf 3:201–3:202 Erfurt 3:209 Essen 3:209 Frankfurt 3:193–3:194 Gelsenkirchen 3:209 Hagen 3:210 Hamburg 3:194–3:196 Hanover 3:205–3:206 Heidelberg 3:204 Karlsruhe 3:210 Kassel 3:206 Kiel 3:210 Krefeld 3:210 Leipzig 3:196–3:197 Lübeck 3:205 Magdeburg 3:210 Mainz 3:210 Mannheim 3:210 Munich 3:198–3:200 Münster 3:210 Nuremberg 3:206 Potsdam 3:205

662

Cities of the World Rostock 3:211 Schwerin 3:211 Stuttgart 3:200–3:201 Wiesbaden 3:211 Wuppertal 3:211 Zwickau 3:211 Germiston, South Africa 1:515 Ghadamis, Libya 1:303 Ghana 1:237–1:249 Accra 1:237–1:240 Bolgatanga 1:241 Cape Coast 1:241 Ho 1:241 Kumasi 1:241 Obuasi 1:241 Sekondi-Takoradi 1:241 Tamale 1:241 Tema 1:242 Ghazni, Afghanistan 4:5 Ghent, Belgium 3:48–3:49 Gifu, Japan 4:254 Gijón, Spain 3:549 Girardot, Colombia 2:190 Gisborne, New Zealand 4:424 Gisenyi, Rwanda 1:457 Gitega, Burundi 1:65 Giurgiu, Romania 3:477 Giza, Egypt 1:176 Gjirokastër, Albania 3:5 Glasgow, United Kingdom 3:644 Godoy Cruz, Argentina 2:21 Goiânia, Brazil 2:112 Gold Coast, Australia 4:44 Golfito, Costa Rica 2:207 Gomel, Belarus 3:33 Gonaïves, Haiti 2:319 Gondar, Ethiopia 1:208 Goroka, Papua New Guinea 4:473 Göteborg, Sweden 3:564–3:565 Gouda, Netherlands 3:416 Gouyave, Grenada 2:282 Granada, Spain 3:549 Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas 2:33– 2:35 Grand Bourg, Martinique 2:362 Grand Turk, Turks and Caicos Islands 2:515 Graz, Austria 3:22 Greece 3:221–3:241 Athens 3:222–3:228 Canea 3:234 Corfu 3:234 Corinth 3:234 Iráklion 3:234 Kavala 3:233–3:234 Larissa 3:234 Patras 3:233 Piraeus 3:234 Rhodes 3:232–3:233 Sparta 3:234 Thessaloníki 3:228–3:232 Tripolis 3:234 Vólos 3:234 Greenville, Liberia 1:294 Grenada 2:279–2:289 Gouyave 2:282 Grenville 2:282

Hillsborough 2:282 St. George’s 2:279–2:282 Windward 2:282 Grenoble, France 3:177 Grenville, Grenada 2:282 Grodno, Belarus 3:33 Groningen, Netherlands 3:415 Grootfontein, Namibia 1:411 Gstaad, Switzerland 3:583 Guadalajara, Mexico 2:375–2:377 Guanajuato, Mexico 2:389 Guangzhou, China 4:126–4:129 Guantánamo, Cuba 2:219 Guaranda, Ecuador 2:258 Guatemala 2:291–2:303 Amatitlán 2:296 Antigua 2:295 Chichicastenango 2:296 Chimaltenango 2:296 Chiquimula 2:296 Cobán 2:297 Esquipulas 2:297 Flores 2:297 Guatemala City 2:291–2:295 Huehuetenango 2:297 Mazatenango 2:297 Puerto Barrios 2:297 Quezaltenango 2:297 San José 2:297 Zacapa 2:297 Guatemala City, Guatemala 2:291– 2:295 Guayaquil, Ecuador 2:254–2:257 Guaymas, Mexico 2:389 Guelph, Canada 2:149 Guilin, China 4:134 Guinea 1:251–1:257 Boké 1:253 Conakry 1:251–1:252 Fria 1:253 Kankan 1:253 Kindia 1:253 Labé 1:253 Macenta 1:253 Guinea-Bissau 1:259–1:265 Bafata 1:261 Bissau 1:259–1:261 Bolama 1:261 Cacheu 1:261 Farim 1:261 Gabú 1:261 Mansôa 1:261 Guiyang, China 4:134 Gujranwala, Pakistan 4:454 Guyana 2:305–2:313 Bartica 2:308 Corriverton 2:308 Georgetown 2:305–2:308 Linden 2:308 New Amsterdam 2:308 Gweru, Zimbabwe 1:612 Gyandzha, Azerbaijan 4:54 Gyor, Hungary 3:247

Index

Cities of the World

H Haarlem, Netherlands 3:413 Hadera, Israel 3:290 Haeju, Korea (North) 4:281 Hafnarfjördur, Iceland 3:259 Hagen, Germany 3:210 Hague, Netherlands 3:405–3:409 Haifa, Israel 3:289 Haiphong, Vietnam 4:669 Haiti 2:315–2:325 Cap-Haïtien 2:319 Gonaïves 2:319 Kenscoff 2:320 Les Cayes 2:320 Pétionville 2:320 Port-au-Prince 2:315–2:319 Port-de-Paix 2:320 Hajdúböszörmény, Hungary 3:248 Halden, Norway 3:432 Halifax, Canada 2:141–2:144 Halmstad, Sweden 3:565 Hamadán, Iran 4:215 Hamamatsu, Japan 4:254 Hamar, Norway 3:432 Hama, Syria 4:576 Hamburg, Germany 3:194–3:196 Hamhung, Korea (North) 4:281 Hamilton, Bermuda 2:63–2:65 Hamilton, Canada 2:146 Hamilton, New Zealand 4:424 Hammamet, Tunisia 1:581 Hangzhou, China 4:134 Hanoi, Vietnam 4:663–4:667 Hanover, Germany 3:205–3:206 Harar, Ethiopia 1:208 Harare, Zimbabwe 1:609–1:612 Harbel, Liberia 1:294 Harbin, China 4:133 Hargeisa, Somalia 1:499 Harper, Liberia 1:294 Hasakeh, Syria 4:577 Hastings, New Zealand 4:424 Haugesund, Norway 3:432 Havana, Cuba 2:215–2:218 Heidelberg, Germany 3:204 Helsingborg, Sweden 3:565 Helsingør, Denmark 3:122 Helsinki, Finland 3:143–3:146 Henzada, Myanmar 4:391 Herát, Afghanistan 4:5 Heredia, Costa Rica 2:207 Hermosillo, Mexico 2:381–2:383 Hetauda, Nepal 4:408 Higüey, Dominican Republic 2:238 Hiiumaa, Estonia 3:132 Hillsborough, Grenada 2:282 Himeji, Japan 4:254 Hiroshima, Japan 4:250 Hobart, Australia 4:42–4:43 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam 4:667–4:669 Hodeida, Yemen 4:685 Hofuf, Saudi Arabia 4:530 Ho, Ghana 1:241 Holguín, Cuba 2:219 Holon, Israel 3:290 Homs, Syria 4:577

Honduras 2:327–2:339 Amapala 2:332 Comayagua 2:332 Copán 2:332 La Ceiba 2:332 Puerto Cortés 2:332 San Pedro Sula 2:332 Santa Bárbara 2:332 Santa Rosa de Copán 2:332 Tegucigalpa 2:327–2:332 Tela 2:332 Hong Kong, China 4:114–4:147 Honiara, Solomon Islands 4:551–552 Horsens, Denmark 3:122 Hovd, Mongolia 4:379 Hradec Kráové, Czech Republic 3:110 Hsinchu, Taiwan 4:588 Hualien, Taiwan 4:588 Huambo, Angola 1:20 Huancayo, Peru 2:465 Hué, Vietnam 4:670–4:671 Huehuetenango, Guatemala 2:297 Hunedoara, Romania 3:477 Hungary 3:243–3:253 Ajka 3:247 Baja 3:247 Budapest 3:243–3:246 Debrecen 3:246 Eger 3:247 Gyor 3:247 Hajdúböszörmény 3:248 Kaposvár 3:248 Kecskemét 3:248 Makó 3:248 Miskolc 3:246–3:247 Nyíregyháza 3:248 Pécs 3:247 Sopron 3:248 Szeged 3:247 Székesfehérvár 3:248 Szombathely 3:249 Veszprém 3:249 Hwange, Zimbabwe 1:612 Hyderabad, India 4:184 Hyderabad, Pakistan 4:454 Hyesan, Korea (North) 4:282

I Iaöi, Romania 3:477 Ibadan, Nigeria 1:441–1:442 Ibb, Yemen 4:685 Ica, Peru 2:465 Iceland 3:255–3:265 Akranes 3:259 Akureyri 3:259 Hafnarfjördur 3:259 Keflavík 3:259 Kópavogur 3:259 Reykjavík 3:255–3:259 Vestmannaeyjar 3:259 Idfu, Egypt 1:176 Ife, Nigeria 1:444 Ilesha, Nigeria 1:444 Iligan, Philippines 4:495 Iloilo City, Philippines 4:495 Ilorin, Nigeria 1:445

Inchón, Korea (South) 4:296 India 4:169–4:193 Agra 4:183 Ahmadabad 4:183 Bangalore 4:183 Baroda 4:183 Bhopal 4:183 Calcutta 4:175–4:177 Chennai (Madras) 4:178–4:180 Coimbatore 4:184 Hyderabad 4:184 Indore 4:184 Kanpur 4:184 Lucknow 4:184 Madurai 4:184 Mumbai 4:180–4:183 Nagapur 4:185 New Delhi 4:169–4:175 Pune 4:185 Surat 4:185 Varanasi 4:185 Indonesia 4:195–4:212 Ambon 4:204 Bandung 4:204 Kupang 4:205 Medan 4:203–4:204 Palembang 4:205 Semarang 4:205 Surabaya 4:202–4:203 Surakarta 4:205 Ujung Pandang 4:206 Yogyakarta 4:206 Indore, India 4:184 Innsbruck, Austria 3:21–3:22 I-n-Salah, Algeria 1:10 Invercargill, New Zealand 4:424 Ipoh, Malaysia 4:341 Iquique, Chile 2:168 Iquitos, Peru 2:465 Iráklion, Greece 3:234 Iran 4:213–4:221 Ábádán 4:215 Bakhtaran 4:215 Bandar Abbas 4:215 Esfahán 4:214–4:215 Hamadán 4:215 Kermán 4:215 Mashhad 4:215 Qom 4:216 Shiráz 4:215 Tabriz 4:216 Tehrán 4:213–4:214 Yazd 4:216 Záhedán 4:216 Irapuato, Mexico 2:389 Iraq 4:223–4:233 Al Baörah 4:225–4:226 Al Mawöil 4:226 An Najaf 4:226 Arbil 4:226 Ar Ramádi 4:226 Baghdád 4:223–4:225 Kirkùk 4:226 Nimrud 4:226 Nineveh 4:226 Irbid, Jordan 3:330 Ireland 3:267–3:281

663

Index Cashel 3:275 Cavan 3:275 Cóbh 3:275 Cork 3:273–3:274 Dublin 3:267–3:273 Dún Laoghaire 3:275 Galway 3:274–3:275 Kilkenny 3:275 Killarney 3:275 Limerick 3:274 Tralee 3:275 Waterford 3:275 Wexford 3:275 Iringa, Tanzania 1:552 Iseyin, Nigeria 1:445 Islamabad, Pakistan 4:441–4:447 Ismailia, Egypt 1:176 Israel 3:283–3:297 Acre 3:289 Beersheba 3:290 Bethlehem 3:290 Elat 3:290 Hadera 3:290 Haifa 3:289 Holon 3:290 Jerusalem 3:287–3:289 Nablus 3:290 Nazareth 3:290 Netanya 3:291 Tel Aviv 3:283–3:287 Istanbul, Turkey 3:596–3:600 Itagüi, Colombia 2:190 Italy 3:299–3:325 Bari 3:317 Bergamo 3:317 Bologna 3:316–3:317 Brescia 3:318 Bressanone 3:318 Cagliari 3:318 Catania 3:318 Florence 3:304–3:306 Genoa 3:312–3:313 Messina 3:318 Milan 3:306–3:309 Modena 3:318 Naples 3:309–3:310 Padua 3:318 Palermo 3:310–3:312 Parma 3:318 Rome 3:299–3:304 Siena 3:319 Syracuse 3:319 Trieste 3:314 Turin 3:314–3:316 Venice 3:317 Ivory Coast see Côte d’Ivoire Iwo, Nigeria 1:445 Ixtapalapa, Mexico 2:389 Izmir, Turkey 3:602–3:604

J Jacmel, Haiti 2:320 Jacqueville, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Jaffna, Sri Lanka 4:561 Jahra, Kuwait 4:309 Jaipur, India 4:184

664

Cities of the World Jajce, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:59 Jakarta, Indonesia 4:195–4:202 Jalálábád, Afghanistan 4:5 Jalapa, Mexico 2:389 Jamaica 2:341–2:357 Bath 2:349 Black River 2:349 Falmouth 2:349 Kingston 2:342–2:348 Mandeville 2:348–2:349 Montego Bay 2:349 Morant Bay 2:349 Negril 2:349 Ocho Rios 2:350 Port Antonio 2:349 Savanna-La-Mar 2:350 Spanish Town 2:350 Japan 4:235–4:268 Chiba 4:254 Fukuoka 4:250–4:252 Gifu 4:254 Hamamatsu 4:254 Himeji 4:254 Hiroshima 4:250 Kagoshima 4:254 Kanazawa 4:255 Kawasaki 4:255 Kita-Kyùshù 4:255 Kòbe 4:243–4:246 Kumagaya 4:255 Kumamoto 4:255 Kurashiki 4:255 Kyòto 4:246–4:247 Miyazaki 4:255 Nagoya 4:247–4:249 Niigata 4:255 Nishinomiya 4:255 Okayama 4:256 Òsaka 4:243–4:246 Sakai 4:256 Sendai 4:256 Tokyo 4:235–4:241 Utsunomiya 4:256 Yokohama 4:241–4:243 Yokosuka 4:256 Jarabacoa, Dominican Republic 2:238 Jeddah, Saudi Arabia 4:528–4:530 Jena, Germany 3:210 Jerash, Jordan 3:330 Jerudong, Brunei 4:89 Jerusalem, Israel 3:287–3:289 Jessore, Bangladesh 4:75 Jima, Ethiopia 1:208 Jinja, Uganda 1:591 Jinotega, Nicaragua 2:421 Jinotepe, Nicaragua 2:421 João Pessoa, Brazil 2:113 Johannesburg, South Africa 1:514– 1:515 Johor Baharu, Malaysia 4:341 Jönköping, Sweden 3:565 Jordan 3:327–3:336 Amman 3:327–3:330 Irbid 3:330 Italy 3:330 Maán 3:330 Zarqa 3:330

Jubá, Sudan 1:530 Juffureh, Gambia 1:230 Juiz de Fora, Brazil 2:113 Jurong, Singapore 4:545 Jyväskylä, Finland 3:148

K Kabale, Uganda 1:591 Kabul, Afghanistan 4:3–4:5 Kabwe, Zambia 1:602 Kadoma, Zimbabwe 1:613 Kaduna, Nigeria 1:439–1:441 Kaédi, Mauritania 1:356 Kagoshima, Japan 4:254 Kairouan, Tunisia 1:580–1:581 Kampala, Uganda 1:589–1:591 Kampong Cham, Cambodia 4:99 Kampong Chhnang, Cambodia 4:100 Kampong Saom, Cambodia 4:100 Kampot, Cambodia 4:100 Kananga, Congo 1:128 Kanazawa, Japan 4:255 Kandahár, Afghanistan 4:5 Kandy, Sri Lanka 4:560–4:561 Kanggye, Korea (North) 4:282 Kankan, Guinea 1:253 Kano, Nigeria 1:442–1:443 Kanpur, India 4:184 Kanye, Botswana 1:43 Kaohsiung, Taiwan 4:586–4:587 Kaolack, Senegal 1:472 Kaposvár, Hungary 3:248 Kapsukas, Lithuania 3:362 Karachi, Pakistan 4:448–4:450 Karaganda, Kazakstan 4:270 Karlovac, Croatia 3:82 Karlsruhe, Germany 3:210 Karlstad, Sweden 3:566 Karonga, Malawi 1:327 Kassalá, Sudan 1:530 Kassel, Germany 3:206 Káthmándu, Nepal 4:403–4:407 Katsina, Nigeria 1:445 Kaunas, Lithuania 3:362 Kavala, Greece 3:233–3:234 Kawasaki, Japan 4:255 Kayes, Mali 1:341 Kayseri, Turkey 3:605 Kazakstan 4:269–4:274 Almaty 4:269–4:270 Astana 4:270 Chimkent 4:270 Karaganda 4:270 Pavlodar 4:270 Semipalatinsk 4:270 Kecskemét, Hungary 3:248 Keelung, Taiwan 4:588 Keetmanshoop, Namibia 1:411 Keflavík, Iceland 3:259 Kenema, Sierra Leone 1:490 Kenitra, Morocco 1:385 Kenscoff, Haiti 2:320 Kenya 1:267–1:279 Eldoret 1:273 Garissa 1:273 Kisumu 1:273

Index

Cities of the World Lamu 1:273 Malindi 1:273 Mombasa 1:272–1:273 Nairobi 1:267–1:272 Nakuru 1:273 Nanyuki 1:273 Nyeri 1:273 Thika 1:273 Kerch, Ukraine 3:624 Kerema, Papua New Guinea 4:473 Keren, Eritrea 1:195 Kermán, Iran 4:215 Kharkov, Ukraine 3:622–3:623 Khartoum North, Sudan 1:530 Khartoum, Sudan 1:527–1:530 Kherson, Ukraine 3:624 Khon Kaen, Thailand 4:611 Khudzhand, Tajikistan 4:595 Khulna, Bangladesh 4:75 Kiel, Germany 3:210 Kielce, Poland 3:450 Kiev, Ukraine 3:618–3:622 Kigali, Rwanda 1:455–1:456 Kilkenny, Ireland 3:275 Killarney, Ireland 3:275 Kimberley, South Africa 1:515 Kimch’aek, Korea (North) 4:282 Kinderdijk, Netherlands 3:416 Kindia, Guinea 1:253 Kingston, Canada 2:150 Kingston, Jamaica 2:342–2:348 Kingstown, Saint Vincent 2:485–2:487 Kinshasa, Congo 1:123–1:126 Kiribati 4:275–4:278 Abemama 4:276 Butaritari 4:276 Tarawa 4:275 Kirikkale, Turkey 3:605 Kirkùk, Iraq 4:226 Kirovograd, Ukraine 3:624 Kisangani, Congo 1:128 Kismayu, Somalia 1:499 Kisoro, Uganda 1:591 Kisumu, Kenya 1:273 Kita-Kyùshù, Japan 4:255 Kitchener, Canada 2:150 Kitwe, Zambia 1:602 Klagenfurt, Austria 3:24 Klaipeda, Lithuania 3:362 Kòbe, Japan 4:243–4:246 Koh Kong, Cambodia 4:100 Kolding, Denmark 3:122 Kolonia, Micronesia 4:367–4:369 Kolwezi, Congo 1:128 Konya, Turkey 3:605 Kópavogur, Iceland 3:259 Korçë, Albania 3:5 Korea, Democratic Peoples’ Republic of see Korea (North) Korea (North) 4:279–4:287 Chongjin 4:281 Haeju 4:281 Hamhung 4:281 Hyesan 4:282 Kanggye 4:282 Kimch’aek 4:282 Najin 4:282

Namp’o 4:282 Pyongyang 4:279–4:281 Sinuiju 4:282 Wonsan 4:281 Korea, Republic of see Korea (South) Korea (South) 4:289–4:303 Cheju 4:296 Inchón 4:296 Kwangju 4:295–4:296 Kyóngju 4:297 Masan 4:297 Panmunjón 4:297 Pusan 4:294–4:295 Seoul 4:290–4:294 Suwón 4:297 Taegu 4:295 Ulsan 4:297 Yósu 4:297 Korhogo, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Koror, Palau 4:465–4:466 Kortrijk, Belgium 3:50 Košice, Slovakia 3:521 Kosrae, Micronesia 4:370 Kota Baharu, Malaysia 4:341 Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia 4:342 Kotka, Finland 3:148 Kotor, Serbia and Montenegro 3:511 Koudougou, Burkina Faso 1:53 Koulikoro, Mali 1:341 Kourou, Martinique 2:362 Kpalimé, Togo 1:566 Kraków, Poland 3:445–3:447 Kralendijk, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Kratie, Cambodia 4:100 Krefeld, Germany 3:210 Kristiansand, Norway 3:431–3:432 Kristianstad, Sweden 3:566 Kristiansund, Norway 3:433 Krugersdorp, South Africa 1:516 Kuala Belait, Brunei 4:90 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 4:335–4:340 Kuala Terengganu, Malaysia 4:342 Kuantan, Malaysia 4:342 Kuching, Malaysia 4:342 Kumagaya, Japan 4:255 Kumamoto, Japan 4:255 Kumanovu, Macedonia 3:381 Kumasi, Ghana 1:241 Kumayri, Armenia 4:18 Kumba, Cameroon 1:78 Kuopio, Finland 3:148 Kupang, Indonesia 4:205 Kurashiki, Japan 4:255 Kurgan-Tyube, Tajikistan 4:595 Kutaisi, Georgia 4:163 Kuwait 4:305–4:314 Ahmadi 4:309 Al-Khiran 4:309 Kuwait 4:305–4:309 Kuwait, Kuwait 4:305–4:309 Kwangju, Korea (South) 4:295–4:296 Kwangju, Korea (South) 4:296 Kwe Kwe, Zimbabwe 1:613 Kyóngju, Korea (South) 4:297 Kyòto, Japan 4:246–4:247 Kyrenia, Cyprus 3:97 Kyrgyzstan 4:315–4:321

Bishkek 4:315–4:318 Dzhalal-Abad 4:318 Osh 4:318 Przhevalsk 4:318 Tokmak 4:318

L Labé, Guinea 1:253 La Brea, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 La Ceiba, Honduras 2:332 La Coruña, Spain 3:549 Ladysmith, South Africa 1:516 Lae, Papua New Guinea 4:474 Lagos, Nigeria 1:433–1:438 La Goulette, Tunisia 1:581 Lahore, Pakistan 4:450–4:452 Lahti, Finland 3:148 La Libertad, El Salvador 2:271 Lambaréné, Gabon 1:219 Lampang, Thailand 4:611 Lamu, Kenya 1:273 Landskrona, Sweden 3:566 Laos 4:323–4:333 Luang Prabang 4:326 Paksé 4:326 Vientiane 4:323–4:326 La Paz, Bolivia 2:75–2:80 La Paz, Mexico 2:390 La Plata, Argentina 2:19 Larissa, Greece 3:234 Larnaca, Cyprus 3:97 La Romana, Dominican Republic 2:238 La Serena, Chile 2:168 Latacunga, Ecuador 2:258 Latakia, Syria 4:576 Latvia 3:337–3:348 Daugavpils 3:342 Liepája 3:342 Riga 3:337–3:341 Ventspils 3:342 La Unión, El Salvador 2:271 Lausanne, Switzerland 3:581–3:582 Lautoka, Fiji 4:154 La Vega, Dominican Republic 2:239 Lebanon 3:349–3:354 Beirut 3:349 Sidon 3:350 Tripoli 3:349 Tyre 3:350 Leeds, United Kingdom 3:645 Le Havre, France 3:170 Leiden, Netherlands 3:413 Leipzig, Germany 3:196–3:197 Le Mans, France 3:178 Leninakan, Armenia see Kumayri, Armenia Leoben, Austria 3:24 León, Mexico 2:390 León, Nicaragua 2:420 León, Spain 3:550 Leribe, Lesotho 1:284 Les Cayes, Haiti 2:320 Lesotho 1:281–1:289 Butha-Buthe 1:284 Leribe 1:284 Mafeteng 1:284

665

Index Maputsoe 1:284 Maseru 1:281–1:284 Mohale’s Hoek 1:284 Quthing 1:284 Les Trois-Ilets, Martinique 2:362 Leticia, Colombia 2:190 Le Vauclin, Martinique 2:362 Levuka, Fiji 4:154 Liberec, Czech Republic 3:110 Liberia 1:291–1:299 Buchanan 1:294 Gbarnga 1:294 Greenville 1:294 Harbel 1:294 Harper 1:294 Monrovia 1:291–1:294 Robertsport 1:294 Sanniquellie 1:294 Voinjama 1:294 Liberia, Costa Rica 2:207 Libreville, Gabon 1:217–1:219 Libya 1:301–1:307 Benghazi 1:303 Darnah 1:303 Derna 1:303 Ghadamis 1:303 Marsa-el Brega 1:304 Misratah 1:303 Tobruk 1:304 Tripoli 1:301–1:303 Liechtenstein 3:355–3:358 Malbun 3:356 Triesen 3:356 Vaduz 3:355–3:356 Liège, Belgium 3:47–3:48 Liepája, Latvia 3:342 Lille, France 3:170–3:171 Lillehammer, Norway 3:433 Lilongwe, Malawi 1:323–1:326 Lima, Peru 2:459–2:464 Limassol, Cyprus 3:96–3:97 Limerick, Ireland 3:274 Limoges, France 3:178 Limón, Costa Rica 2:207 Linden, Guyana 2:308 Lindi, Tanzania 1:552 Linköping, Sweden 3:566 Linz, Austria 3:22–3:23 Lisbon, Portugal 3:457–3:461 Lithuania 3:359–3:367 Kapsukas 3:362 Kaunas 3:362 Klaipeda 3:362 Paneveüys 3:362 Šiauliai 3:362 Vilnius 3:359–3:362 Liverpool, United Kingdom 3:644–3:645 Livingstone, Zambia 1:603 Ljubljana, Slovenia 3:528–3:530 Lobatse, Botswana 1:43 Lobito, Angola 1:20 Locarno, Switzerland 3:583 Ïódý, Poland 3:448–3:449 Logroño, Spain 3:550 Loja, Ecuador 2:258 Lome, Togo 1:561–1:565 London, Canada 2:147

666

Cities of the World Londonderry, United Kingdom 3:646 London, United Kingdom 3:633–3:638 Lopinot, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 Loubomo, Congo (Brazzaville) 1:141 Louga, Senegal 1:472 Lourdes, France 3:178 Louvain, Belgium 3:50 Luanda, Angola 1:18–1:20 Luang Prabang, Laos 4:326 Luanshya, Zambia 1:603 Lübeck, Germany 3:205 Lubumbashi, Congo 1:126–1:127 Lucerne, Switzerland 3:583 Lucknow, India 4:184 Lüda, China 4:134 Luderitz, Namibia 1:410–1:411 Lugano, Switzerland 3:583 Lumbini, Nepal 4:409 Luque, Paraguay 2:449 Lusaka, Zambia 1:599–1:602 Lutsk, Ukraine 3:624 Luxembourg 3:369–3:378 Clervaux 3:373 Diekirch 3:373 Differdange 3:373 Dudelange 3:373 Echternach 3:373 Esch-sur-Alzette 3:373 Luxembourg 3:369 Vianden 3:373 Luxembourg, Luxembourg 3:369 Luxor, Egypt 1:176 Lviv, Ukraine 3:623 Lyons, France 3:166–3:167

M Maán, Jordan 3:330 Maastricht, Netherlands 3:413–3:414 Macau, China 4:135 Macedonia 3:379–3:383 Bitola 3:381 Kumanovu 3:381 Ohrid 3:380–3:381 Prilep 3:381 Skopje 3:379–3:380 Maceió, Brazil 2:113 Macenta, Guinea 1:253 Madagascar 1:309–1:321 Antananarivo 1:309–1:313 Antsirabé 1:313 Antsiranana 1:313 Fiananrantsoa 1:313 Mahajanga 1:314 Mananjary 1:314 Taolanaro 1:314 Toamasina 1:314 Toliary 1:314 Madang, Papua New Guinea 4:474 Madras, India see Chennai (Madras), India Madrid, Spain 3:539–3:543 Madurai, India 4:184 Mafeteng, Lesotho 1:284 Magdeburg, Germany 3:210 Mahajanga, Madagascar 1:314 Mahalapye, Botswana 1:43

Mahdia, Tunisia 1:581 Mahébourg, Mauritius 1:366 Maiduguri, Nigeria 1:445 Maimansingh, Bangladesh see Mymensingh, Bangladesh Mainz, Germany 3:210 Majuro, Marshall Islands 4:356–4:358 Makeni, Sierra Leone 1:490 Makkah, Saudi Arabia 4:530 Makó, Hungary 3:248 Malabo, Equatorial Guinea 1:185–1:186 Málaga, Spain 3:547 Malanje, Angola 1:18, 1:20 Malawi 1:323–1:331 Blantyre 1:326–1:327 Dedza 1:327 Karonga 1:327 Lilongwe 1:323–1:326 Mzuzu 1:327 Nkhotakota 1:327 Nsanje 1:327 Zomba 1:327 Malaysia 4:335–4:348 Alor Setar 4:341 George Town 4:340–4:341 Ipoh 4:341 Johor Baharu 4:341 Kota Baharu 4:341 Kota Kinabalu 4:342 Kuala Lumpur 4:335–4:340 Kuala Terengganu 4:342 Kuantan 4:342 Kuching 4:342 Melaka 4:342 Seremban 4:343 Malbun, Liechtenstein 3:356 Maldives 4:349–4:353 Baa Atoll 4:350 Malé 4:349–4:350 Seenu Atoll 4:350 Malé, Maldives 4:349–4:350 Mali 1:333–1:351 Bamako 1:333–1:341 Djenné 1:341 Gao 1:341 Kayes 1:341 Koulikoro 1:341 Mopti 1:341 Ségou 1:341 Sikasso 1:341 Tombouctou 1:342 Malindi, Kenya 1:273 Malmö, Sweden 3:565 Malta 3:385–3:394 Birkirkara 3:387 Floriana 3:387 Mdina 3:387 Qormi 3:387 Sliema 3:387 Valletta 3:385–3:387 Victoria 3:387 Man, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Managua, Nicaragua 2:415–2:420 Manama, Bahrain 4:60–4:62 Mananjary, Madagascar 1:314 Manaus, Brazil 2:111

Index

Cities of the World Manchester, United Kingdom 3:645– 3:646 Mandalay, Myanmar 4:390 Mandeville, Jamaica 2:348–2:349 Mango, Togo 1:566 Manila, Philippines 4:485–4:491 Manizales, Colombia 2:190 Mannheim, Germany 3:210 Mansôa, Guinea-Bissau 1:261 Manzanillo, Mexico 2:390 Manzini, Swaziland 1:540 Maputo, Mozambique 1:395–1:396 Maputsoe, Lesotho 1:284 Maracaibo, Venezuela 2:540–2:542 Maracay, Venezuela 2:542 Maradi, Niger 1:427 Maraö, Turkey 3:605 Mar del Plata, Argentina 2:20 Maribor, Slovenia 3:530 Mariental, Namibia 1:411 Maripasoula, Martinique 2:362 Marka, Somalia 1:500 Maroua, Cameroon 1:78 Marrakech, Morocco 1:382–1:383 Marsa-el Brega, Libya 1:304 Marseille, France 3:163–3:164 Marshall Islands 4:355–4:366 Majuro 4:356–4:358 Martinique 2:359–2:367 Basse-Terre 2:361 Cayenne 2:362 Fort-de-France 2:359–2:361 Grand Bourg 2:362 Kourou 2:362 Les Trois-Ilets 2:362 Le Vauclin 2:362 Maripasoula 2:362 Pointe-à-Pitre 2:362 Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni 2:362 Saint-Pierre 2:362 Mary, Turkmenistan 4:625 Masaka, Uganda 1:591 Masan, Korea (South) 4:297 Masaya, Nicaragua 2:421 Maseru, Lesotho 1:281–1:284 Mashhad, Iran 4:215 Masvingo, Zimbabwe 1:613 Matamoros, Mexico 2:383–2:384 Matanzas, Cuba 2:219 Matara, Sri Lanka 4:562 Matosinhos, Portugal 3:466 Matrah, Oman 4:435 Mauritania 1:353–1:361 Atar 1:356 Boutilimit 1:356 Chinguetti 1:356 Kaédi 1:356 Nouadhibou 1:356 Nouakchott 1:353–1:356 Ouadane 1:356 Rosso 1:356 Zouérate 1:356 Mauritius 1:363–1:369 Beau Bassin-Rose Hill 1:366 Curepipe 1:365–1:366 Mahébourg 1:366 Pamplemousses 1:366

Port Louis 1:363–1:365 Quatre Bornes 1:366 Vacoas-Phoenix 1:366 Mazár-i-Sharìf, Afghanistan 4:6 Mazatenango, Guatemala 2:297 Mazatlán, Mexico 2:384–2:385 Mbabane, Swaziland 1:537–1:540 Mbala, Zambia 1:603 Mbale, Uganda 1:591 Mbandaka, Congo 1:128 Mbarara, Uganda 1:591 Mbeya, Tanzania 1:552 Mbuji-Mayi, Congo 1:128 Mdina, Malta 3:387 Mecca, Saudi Arabia see Makkah, Saudi Arabia Mechlin, Belgium 3:51 Medan, Indonesia 4:203–4:204 Médéa, Algeria 1:10 Medellín, Colombia 2:182–2:185 Medicine Hat, Canada 2:150 Mekele, Ethiopia 1:208 Meknès, Morocco 1:384–1:385 Melaka, Malaysia 4:342 Melbourne, Australia 4:34–4:37 Mendoza, Argentina 2:19 Menzil-Bourguiba, Tunisia 1:581 Mérida, Mexico 2:385 Mérida, Venezuela 2:542 Mersin, Turkey 3:605 Messina, Italy 3:318 Metz, France 3:178 Mexicali, Mexico 2:390 Mexico 2:369–2:403 Acapulco 2:387 Aguascalientes 2:387 Campeche 2:388 Chihuahua 2:388 Ciudad Juárez 2:379–2:381 Ciudad Obregón 2:388 Coyoacán 2:388 Cuernavaca 2:388 Culiacán 2:389 Durango 2:389 Guadalajara 2:375–2:377 Guanajuato 2:389 Guaymas 2:389 Hermosillo 2:381–2:383 Irapuato 2:389 La Paz 2:390 León 2:390 Manzanillo 2:390 Matamoros 2:383–2:384 Mazatlán 2:384–2:385 Mérida 2:385 Mexicali 2:390 Mexico City 2:369–2:375 Monterrey 2:377–379 Morelia 2:390 Nezahualcóyotl 2:391 Nuevo Laredo 2:386–2:387 Oaxaca 2:391 Orizaba 2:391 Pachuca 2:391 Poza Rica 2:391 Puebla 2:387 Puerto Vallarta 2:391

Querétaro 2:391 Saltillo 2:392 San Luis Potosí 2:392 Tampico 2:392 Taxco 2:392 Tepic 2:392 Tijuana 2:381 Toluca 2:392 Veracruz 2:393 Xochimilco 2:393 Zacatecas 2:393 Mexico City, Mexico 2:369–2:375 Micronesia 4:367–4:373 Chuuk Atoll 4:369 Kolonia 4:367–4:369 Kosrae 4:370 Milan, Italy 3:306–3:309 Minas, Uruguay 2:525 Mindelo, Cape Verde 1:90 Mingechaur, Azerbaijan 4:54 Minsk, Belarus 3:31–3:33 Miskolc, Hungary 3:246–3:247 Misratah, Libya 1:303 Miyazaki, Japan 4:255 Moçambique, Mozambique 1:396 Moçamedes, Angola see Namibe, Angola Modena, Italy 3:318 Moengo, Suriname 2:493 Mogadishu, Somalia 1:497–1:499 Mogilëv, Belarus 3:33 Mogok, Myanmar 4:391 Mohale’s Hoek, Lesotho 1:284 Moknine, Tunisia 1:581 Molde, Norway 3:433 Moldova 3:395–3:403 Beltsy 3:397 Bendery 3:397 Chisinau 3:396–3:397 Tiraspol 3:398 Mombasa, Kenya 1:272–1:273 Monastir, Tunisia 1:579–1:580 Mongolia 4:375–4:383 Choybalsan 4:378 Darhan 4:379 Erdenet 4:379 Hovd 4:379 Shbaatar 4:379 Ulaanbaatar 4:375–4:378 Mongu, Zambia 1:603 Monrovia, Liberia 1:291–1:294 Mons, Belgium 3:51 Montego Bay, Jamaica 2:349 Montenegro see Serbia and Montenegro Montería, Colombia 2:190 Monterrey, Mexico 2:377–379 Montevideo, Uruguay 2:519–2:524 Montijo, Portugal 3:466 Montpellier, France 3:171 Montreal, Canada 2:130–2:133 Montreux, Switzerland 3:583 Mopti, Mali 1:341 Morant Bay, Jamaica 2:349 Morelia, Mexico 2:390 Morocco 1:371–1:393 Agadir 1:385 Casablanca 1:376–1:380 Ceuta 1:385

667

Index El Jadida 1:385 Fez 1:383–1:384 Kenitra 1:385 Marrakech 1:382–1:383 Meknès 1:384–1:385 Oujda 1:385 Rabat 1:371–1:376 Safi 1:385 Tangier 1:380–1:382 Tétouan 1:385 Morogoro, Tanzania 1:552 Moroni, Comoros 1:115–1:116 Moroto, Uganda 1:592 Moscow, Russia 3:483–3:487 Moshi, Tanzania 1:553 Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:59 Mouanda, Gabon 1:219 Moulins, France 3:178 Moulmein, Myanmar 4:391 Moundou, Chad 1:108 Mozambique 1:395–1:402 Beira 1:396 Moçambique 1:396 Maputo 1:395–1:396 Nampula 1:396 Quelimane 1:396 Tete 1:396 Mufulira, Zambia 1:603 Mukachovo, Ukraine 3:624 Mulhouse, France 3:179 Multan, Pakistan 4:454 Mumbai, India 4:180–4:183 Munich, Germany 3:198–3:200 Münster, Germany 3:210 Murcia, Spain 3:550 Muscat, Oman 4:433–4:435 Mutare, Zimbabwe 1:613 Mutsamudu, Comoros 1:116 Mwanza, Tanzania 1:553 Myanmar 4:385–4:398 Amarapura 4:390 Bassein 4:391 Bhamo 4:391 Henzada 4:391 Mandalay 4:390 Mogok 4:391 Moulmein 4:391 Myitkyina 4:391 Pyè 4:391 Sandoway 4:391 Sittwe 4:391 Tavoy 4:391 Yangon 4:386–4:390 Myitkyina, Myanmar 4:391 Mymensingh, Bangladesh 4:75 Mzuzu, Malawi 1:327

N Nabeul, Tunisia 1:582 Nablus, Israel 3:290 Nadi, Fiji 4:154 Naestved, Denmark 3:122 Nagapur, India 4:185 Nagoya, Japan 4:247–4:249 Nairobi, Kenya 1:267–1:272 Najin, Korea (North) 4:282

668

Cities of the World Nakhichevan, Azerbaijan 4:54 Nakhon Pathom, Thailand 4:611 Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand 4:611 Nakuru, Kenya 1:273 Namibe, Angola 1:20 Namibia 1:403–1:421 Grootfontein 1:411 Keetmanshoop 1:411 Luderitz 1:410–1:411 Mariental 1:411 Swakopmund 1:410 Tsumeb 1:411 Walvis Bay 1:410 Windhoek 1:403–1:410 Namp’o, Korea (North) 4:282 Nampula, Mozambique 1:396 Namur, Belgium 3:52 Nancy, France 3:169–3:170 Nanjing, China 4:132–4:133 Nanterre, France 3:179 Nantes, France 3:171 Nanyuki, Kenya 1:273 Napier, New Zealand 4:425 Naples, Italy 3:309–3:310 Narayanganj, Bangladesh 4:75 Narva, Estonia 3:132 Nassau, Bahamas 2:29–2:33 Natal, Brazil 2:113 Nauru 4:399–4:401 Yaren District 4:399 Nazareth, Israel 3:290 Nazret, Ethiopia 1:208 N’Djamena, Chad 1:105–1:108 Ndola, Zambia 1:603 Nebit-Dag, Turkmenistan 4:625 Negombo, Sri Lanka 4:562 Negril, Jamaica 2:349 Neiva, Colombia 2:191 Nepal 4:403–4:415 Bhairawa 4:408 Bhaktapur 4:408 Birátnagar 4:409 Birganj 4:409 Hetauda 4:408 Káthmándu 4:403–4:407 Lumbini 4:409 Pa÷án 4:409 Pokhará 4:407–4:408 Rampur 4:409 Tulsipur 4:408 Netanya, Israel 3:291 Netherlands 3:405–3:421 Alkmaar 3:415 Amersfoort 3:415 Amsterdam 3:409–3:410 Apeldoorn 3:415 Arnhem 3:415 Breda 3:415 Bussum 3:416 Delft 3:416 Dordrecht 3:416 Eindhoven 3:414–3:415 Enschede 3:416 Gouda 3:416 Groningen 3:415 Haarlem 3:413 Hague 3:405–3:409

Kinderdijk 3:416 Leiden 3:413 Maastricht 3:413–3:414 Nijmegen 3:415 Rotterdam 3:410–3:412 Schiedam 3:416 Tilburg 3:416 Utrecht 3:412–3:413 Zaanstad 3:416 Zwolle 3:416 Netherlands Antilles 2:405–2:413 Curaçao (Willemstad) 2:405–2:409 Kralendijk 2:409 Oranjestad 2:409 Philipsburg 2:409 Sint Nicolaas 2:409 The Bottom 2:409 Willemstad see Curaçao Neuchâtel, Switzerland 3:583 New Amsterdam, Guyana 2:308 Newcastle, Australia 4:44 Newcastle-upon-Tyne, United Kingdom 3:646 New Delhi, India 4:169–4:175 New Guinea see Papua New Guinea Newry, United Kingdom 3:647 New Zealand 4:417–4:431 Auckland 4:421–4:423 Christchurch 4:423–4:424 Dunedin 4:424 Gisborne 4:424 Hamilton 4:424 Hastings 4:424 Invercargill 4:424 Napier 4:425 Palmerston North 4:425 Rotorua 4:425 Timaru 4:425 Wellington 4:417–4:421 Whangarei 4:425 Nezahualcóyotl, Mexico 2:391 Ngaoundéré, Cameroon 1:78 Ngozi, Burundi 1:65 Nha Trang, Vietnam 4:671 Niagara Falls, Canada 2:150 Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada 2:150 Niamey, Niger 1:423–1:427 Nicaragua 2:415–2:427 Chinandega 2:420 Corinto 2:420 Diriamba 2:420 Estelí 2:420 Jinotega 2:421 Jinotepe 2:421 León 2:420 Managua 2:415–2:420 Masaya 2:421 Nice, France 3:167–3:169 Nicosia, Cyprus 3:91–3:96 Nieuw-Nickerie, Suriname 2:493 Niger 1:423–1:431 Agadez 1:427 Maradi 1:427 Niamey 1:423–1:427 Tahoua 1:427 Zinder 1:427 Nigeria 1:433–1:453

Index

Cities of the World Aba 1:444 Abeokuta 1:444 Abuja 1:438–1:439 Ado 1:444 Benin City 1:444 Bonny 1:444 Calabar 1:444 Ede 1:444 Enugu 1:443 Ibadan 1:441–1:442 Ife 1:444 Ilesha 1:444 Ilorin 1:445 Iseyin 1:445 Kaduna 1:439–1:441 Kano 1:442–1:443 Katsina 1:445 Lagos 1:433–1:438 Maiduguri 1:445 Ogbomosho 1:445 Onitsha 1:445 Oshogbo 1:445 Oyo 1:446 Port Harcourt 1:446 Zaria 1:446 Niigata, Japan 4:255 Nijmegen, Netherlands 3:415 Nikolayev, Ukraine 3:624 Nikšic, Serbia and Montenegro 3:511 Nîmes, France 3:179 Nimrud, Iraq 4:226 Nineveh, Iraq 4:226 Nishinomiya, Japan 4:255 Niš, Serbia and Montenegro 3:512 Nizhniy Novgorod, Russia 3:495 Nkayi, Congo (Brazzaville) 1:141 Nkhotakota, Malawi 1:327 Nkongsamba, Cameroon 1:79 Norrköping, Sweden 3:566 North Bay, Canada 2:150 North Korea see Korea (North) Norway 3:423–3:441 Ålesund 3:432 Arendal 3:432 Bergen 3:428–3:429 Bodo 3:432 Drammen 3:432 Halden 3:432 Hamar 3:432 Haugesund 3:432 Kristiansand 3:431–3:432 Kristiansund 3:433 Lillehammer 3:433 Molde 3:433 Oslo 3:424–3:428 Porsgrunn 3:433 Roros 3:433 Sandnes 3:433 Skien 3:433 Stavanger 3:430–3:431 Tonsberg 3:433 Tromsø 3:431 Trondheim 3:429–3:430 Nottingham, United Kingdom 3:647 Nouadhibou, Mauritania 1:356 Nouakchott, Mauritania 1:353–1:356 Nova Lisboa, Angola see Huambo,

Angola Novi Sad, Serbia and Montenegro 3:512 Novosibirsk, Russia 3:495 Nsanje, Malawi 1:327 Nueva San Salvador, El Salvador 2:271 Nuevo Laredo, Mexico 2:386–2:387 Nuku’alofa, Tonga 4:619–4:620 Nuremberg, Germany 3:206 Nyanda, Zimbabwe 1:613 Nyeri, Kenya 1:273 Nyíregyháza, Hungary 3:248

O Oakville, Canada 2:151 Oaxaca, Mexico 2:391 Obuasi, Ghana 1:241 Ocho Rios, Jamaica 2:350 Odense, Denmark 3:120–3:121 Odessa, Ukraine 3:623 Ogbomosho, Nigeria 1:445 Ohrid, Macedonia 3:380–3:381 Okayama, Japan 4:256 Olinda, Brazil 2:113 Olomouc, Czech Republic 3:109 Oman 4:433–4:439 Matrah 4:435 Muscat 4:433–4:435 Salálah 4:435 Omdurman, Sudan 1:530 Onitsha, Nigeria 1:445 Oporto, Portugal 3:463–3:465 Oradea, Romania 3:477 Oran, Algeria 1:7–1:9 Orange Walk, Belize 2:57 Oranjestad, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Örebro, Sweden 3:566 Orizaba, Mexico 2:391 Orléans, France 3:179 Oruro, Bolivia 2:81 Òsaka, Japan 4:243–4:246 Oshawa, Canada 2:151 Oshogbo, Nigeria 1:445 Osh, Kyrgyzstan 4:318 Osijek, Croatia 3:82 Oslo, Norway 3:424–3:428 Ostend, Belgium 3:52 Ostrava, Czech Republic 3:108 Ottawa, Canada 2:123–2:127 Ouadane, Mauritania 1:356 Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso 1:51–1:53 Ouahigouya, Burkina Faso 1:54 Ouargla, Algeria 1:10 Ouidah, Benin 1:31 Oujda, Morocco 1:385 Oulu, Finland 3:148 Ouro Prêto, Brazil 2:113 Oviedo, Spain 3:550 Oyem, Gabon 1:220 Oyo, Nigeria 1:446

P Paarl, South Africa 1:516 Pabna, Bangladesh 4:75 Pachuca, Mexico 2:391 Padua, Italy 3:318

Pakistan 4:441–4:464 Bahawalpur 4:454 Faisalabad 4:454 Gujranwala 4:454 Hyderabad 4:454 Islamabad 4:441–4:447 Karachi 4:448–4:450 Lahore 4:450–4:452 Multan 4:454 Peshawar 4:452–4:454 Quetta 4:455 Rawalpindi 4:447–4:448 Sargodha 4:455 Sialkot 4:455 Sukkur 4:455 Paksé, Laos 4:326 Palau 4:465–4:469 Koror 4:465–4:466 Palembang, Indonesia 4:205 Palermo, Italy 3:310–3:312 Palmerston North, New Zealand 4:425 Palmira, Colombia 2:191 Pamplemousses, Mauritius 1:366 Pamplona, Spain 3:550 Panama 2:429–2:441 Balboa 2:433 Chitré 2:433 Colón 2:433 Cristóbal 2:433 David 2:433 Panama City 2:429–2:433 Portobelo 2:433 Santiago 2:433 Panama City, Panama 2:429–2:433 Paneveüys, Lithuania 3:362 Panmunjón, Korea (South) 4:297 Paphos, Cyprus 3:97 Papua New Guinea 4:471–4:483 Goroka 4:473 Kerema 4:473 Lae 4:474 Madang 4:474 Port Moresby 4:471–4:473 Rabaul 4:474 Wewak 4:474 Paraguay 2:443–2:457 Asunción 2:443–2:448 Caacupé 2:448 Caazapá 2:449 Ciudad del Este 2:449 Concepción 2:449 Coronel Oviedo 2:449 Encarnación 2:448 Luque 2:449 Pedro Juan Caballero 2:449 Pilar 2:449 Villarrica 2:449 Parakou, Benin 1:31 Paramaribo, Suriname 2:491–2:493 Paraná, Argentina 2:21 Pardubice, Czech Republic 3:110 Paris, France 3:157–3:160 Parma, Italy 3:318 Paro, Bhutan 4:82 Pasto, Colombia 2:191 Pa÷án, Nepal 4:409 Patras, Greece 3:233

669

Index Pau, France 3:179 Pavlodar, Kazakstan 4:270 Paysandú, Uruguay 2:525 Pécs, Hungary 3:247 Pedro Juan Caballero, Paraguay 2:449 Perpignan, France 3:180 Perth, Australia 4:37–4:39 Peru 2:459–2:473 Arequipa 2:464 Cajamarca 2:464 Callao 2:464 Cerro de Pasco 2:464 Chiclayo 2:464 Chimbote 2:464 Cuzco 2:465 Huancayo 2:465 Ica 2:465 Iquitos 2:465 Lima 2:459–2:464 Pisco 2:465 Piura 2:465 Pucallpa 2:465 Trujillo 2:465 Peshawar, Pakistan 4:452–4:454 Peterborough, Canada 2:151 Pétionville, Haiti 2:320 Phet Buri, Thailand 4:612 Philippines 4:485–4:503 Bacolod 4:495 Baguio 4:493–4:494 Batangas 4:495 Butuan 4:495 Cebu City 4:491–4:493 Davao City 4:494–4:495 Iligan 4:495 Iloilo City 4:495 Manila 4:485–4:491 Quezon City 4:491 San Pablo 4:495 Zamboanga 4:495 Philipsburg, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Phnom Penh, Cambodia 4:95–4:98 Phuket, Thailand 4:612 Piatra-Neam÷, Romania 3:477 Piešt’any, Slovakia 3:521 Pietermaritzburg, South Africa 1:516 Pilar, Paraguay 2:449 Piraeus, Greece 3:234 Pisco, Peru 2:465 Piteöti, Romania 3:477 Piura, Peru 2:465 Pleven, Bulgaria 3:67 Ploieöti, Romania 3:477 Plovdiv, Bulgaria 3:67 Plymouth, United Kingdom 3:647 Plzeð, Czech Republic 3:108–3:109 Podgorica, Serbia and Montenegro 3:512 Pointe-à-Pitre, Martinique 2:362 Pointe-Noire, Congo (Brazzaville) 1:141 Poitiers, France 3:180 Pokhará, Nepal 4:407–4:408 Poland 3:443–3:455 Bielsko-Biala 3:450 Bydgoszcz 3:450 Czëstochowa 3:450 Gdañsk 3:450

670

Cities of the World Kielce 3:450 Kraków 3:445–3:447 Ïódý 3:448–3:449 Poznañ 3:447–3:448 Szczecin 3:450 Warsaw 3:443–3:444 Wrocïaw 3:449 Poltava, Ukraine 3:624 Ponta Delgada, Portugal 3:461–3:463 Popayán, Colombia 2:191 Pori, Finland 3:149 Porsgrunn, Norway 3:433 Port Antonio, Jamaica 2:349 Port-au-Prince, Haiti 2:315–2:319 Port-de-Paix, Haiti 2:320 Port Elizabeth, South Africa 1:516 Port-Gentil, Gabon 1:220 Port Harcourt, Nigeria 1:446 Port Louis, Mauritius 1:363–1:365 Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea 4:471–4:473 Pôrto Alegre, Brazil 2:106–2:107 Portobelo, Panama 2:433 Port-of-Spain, Trinidad and Tobago 2:501–2:506 Porto Novo, Benin 1:30–1:31 Portoviejo, Ecuador 2:258 Port Said, Egypt 1:176 Portsmouth, Dominica 2:228 Portsmouth, United Kingdom 3:647 Port Sudan, Sudan 1:531 Portugal 3:457–3:471 Aveiro 3:465 Braga 3:466 Coimbra 3:465 Covilhã 3:466 Funchal 3:466 Lisbon 3:457–3:461 Matosinhos 3:466 Montijo 3:466 Oporto 3:463–3:465 Ponta Delgada 3:461–3:463 Setúbal 3:466 Vila Nova de Gaia 3:466 Port-Vila, Vanuatu 4:659–4:660 Posadas, Argentina 2:21 Potosí, Bolivia 2:81 Potsdam, Germany 3:205 Poza Rica, Mexico 2:391 Poznañ, Poland 3:447–3:448 Prague, Czech Republic 3:103–3:108 Praia, Cape Verde 1:87–1:90 Pretoria, South Africa 1:507 Prilep, Macedonia 3:381 Prince Albert, Canada 2:151 Prince George, Canada 2:151 Príncipe see São Tomé and Príncipe Priština, Serbia and Montenegro 3:512 Przhevalsk, Kyrgyzstan 4:318 Pucallpa, Peru 2:465 Puebla, Mexico 2:387 Puerto Barrios, Guatemala 2:297 Puerto Cortés, Honduras 2:332 Puerto Montt, Chile 2:168 Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic 2:239 Puerto Vallarta, Mexico 2:391

Pula, Croatia 3:82 Punakha, Bhutan 4:82 Pune, India 4:185 Punta Arenas, Chile 2:168 Punta del Este, Uruguay 2:525 Punta Gorda, Belize 2:57 Puntarenas, Costa Rica 2:207 Pursat, Cambodia 4:100 Pusan, Korea (South) 4:294–4:295 Pyè, Myanmar 4:391 Pyongyang, Korea (North) 4:279–4:281

Q Qafsah, Tunisia 1:582 Qatar 4:505–4:514 Doha 4:505–4:508 Umm Said 4:508 Qom, Iran 4:216 Qormi, Malta 3:387 Quatre Bornes, Mauritius 1:366 Quebec, Canada 2:133–2:136 Quelimane, Mozambique 1:396 Querétaro, Mexico 2:391 Quetta, Pakistan 4:455 Quezaltenango, Guatemala 2:297 Quezon City, Philippines 4:491 Qui Nhon, Vietnam 4:671 Quito, Ecuador 2:247–2:254 Quthing, Lesotho 1:284

R Rabat, Morocco 1:371–1:376 Rabaul, Papua New Guinea 4:474 Rajshahi, Bangladesh 4:75 Rampur, Nepal 4:409 Randers, Denmark 3:122 Rangpur, Bangladesh 4:75 Raqqa, Syria 4:577 Ras al-Khaimah, United Arab Emirates (UAE) 4:642 Ratnapura, Sri Lanka 4:562 Rawalpindi, Pakistan 4:447–4:448 Recife, Brazil 2:102–2:106 Regina, Canada 2:146 Reims, France 3:171 Rennes, France 3:180 Resistencia, Argentina 2:21 Reöi÷a, Romania 3:478 Reykjavík, Iceland 3:255–3:259 Rhodes, Greece 3:232–3:233 Ribe, Denmark 3:122 Ribeirão Prêto, Brazil 2:113 Riga, Latvia 3:337–3:341 Rijeka, Croatia 3:82 Riobamba, Ecuador 2:258 Río Cuarto, Argentina 2:21 Rio De Janeiro, Brazil 2:94–2:97 Rivera, Uruguay 2:525 Riyadh, Saudi Arabia 4:521–4:525 Robertsport, Liberia 1:294 Rogaška Slatina, Slovenia 3:530 Romania 3:473–3:482 Arad 3:476 Bacàu 3:476 Baia Mare 3:476

Index

Cities of the World Bràila 3:476 Braöov 3:475 Bucharest 3:473–3:475 Buzàu 3:476 Cluj-Napoca 3:476 Constan÷a 3:475 Craiova 3:476 Gala÷i 3:477 Giurgiu 3:477 Hunedoara 3:477 Iaöi 3:477 Oradea 3:477 Piatra-Neam÷ 3:477 Piteöti 3:477 Ploieöti 3:477 Reöi÷a 3:478 Sibiu 3:478 Timiöoara 3:475–3:476 Tîrgu-Mureö 3:478 Rome, Italy 3:299–3:304 Roodepoort, South Africa 1:516 Roros, Norway 3:433 Rosario, Argentina 2:19 Roseau, Dominica 2:227–2:228 Roskilde, Denmark 3:122 Rosso, Mauritania 1:356 Rostock, Germany 3:211 Rotorua, New Zealand 4:425 Rotterdam, Netherlands 3:410–3:412 Roubaix, France 3:180 Rouen, France 3:172 Rufisque, Senegal 1:472 Ruhengeri, Rwanda 1:457 Ruse, Bulgaria 3:67 Russia 3:483–3:504 Moscow 3:483–3:487 Nizhniy Novgorod 3:495 Novosibirsk 3:495 St. Petersburg 3:487–3:491 Samara 3:495 Vladivostok 3:491 Volgograd 3:495 Yekaterinburg 3:494 Rustavi, Georgia 4:163 Rwanda 1:455–1:462 Butare 1:456 Cyangugu 1:456 Gisenyi 1:457 Kigali 1:455–1:456 Ruhengeri 1:457

S Saaremaa, Estonia 3:132 Safi, Morocco 1:385 Sa’dah, Yemen 4:686 Saïda, Algeria 1:10 Saint Andrews, United Kingdom 3:647 Saint-Brieuc, France 3:180 Saint Catherines, Canada 2:151 Saint-Denis, France 3:180 Saint-Étienne, France 3:180 Saint Gall, Switzerland 3:583 Saint George, Bermuda 2:65 Saint George’s, Grenada 2:279–2:282 Saint John, Canada 2:151 Saint John’s, Antigua and Barbuda 2:3–

2:6 Saint John’s, Canada 2:147–2:148 Saint Joseph, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 Saint Kitts and Nevis 2:475–2:478 Basseterre 2:475 Charlestown 2:475 Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, Martinique 2:362 Saint-Louis, Senegal 1:472 Saint Lucia 2:479–484 Castries 2:479–2:480 Saint-Malo, France 3:181 Saint Moritz, Switzerland 3:584 Saint-Nazaire, France 3:181 Saint Petersburg, Russia 3:487–3:491 Saint-Pierre, Martinique 2:362 Saint Vincent 2:485–2:489 Kingstown 2:485–2:487 Sakai, Japan 4:256 Salálah, Oman 4:435 Salamanca, Spain 3:550 Salamis, Cyprus 3:97 Salta, Argentina 2:20 Saltillo, Mexico 2:392 Salto, Uruguay 2:525 Salvador Da Bahia, Brazil 2:107–2:109 Salzburg, Austria 3:20–3:21 Samaná, Dominican Republic 2:239 Samara, Russia 3:495 Samarkand, Uzbekistan 4:652 Samoa 4:515–4:519 Apia 4:515–4:516 Samsun, Turkey 3:605 Sanaa, Yemen 4:679–4:684 San Cristóbal, Dominican Republic 2:239 San Cristóbal, Venezuela 2:543 Sandnes, Norway 3:433 Sandoway, Myanmar 4:391 San Fernando, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 San Francisco de Macorís, Dominican Republic 2:239 Sangre Grande, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 San Ignacio, Belize 2:57 San Jose, Costa Rica 2:202–2:206 San José, Guatemala 2:297 San Juan, Argentina 2:21 San Juan, Dominican Republic 2:239 San Luis Potosí, Mexico 2:392 San Marino 3:505–3:508 San Marino 3:505–3:506 San Marino, San Marino 3:505–3:506 San Miguel de Tucumán, Argentina 2:19–2:20 San Miguel, El Salvador 2:271 Sanniquellie, Liberia 1:294 San Pablo, Philippines 4:495 San Pedro, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 San Pedro de Macorís, Dominican Republic 2:239 San Pedro Sula, Honduras 2:332 San Salvador, El Salvador 2:269–2:271 San Sebastián, Spain 3:550 Santa Ana, El Salvador 2:271

Santa Bárbara, Honduras 2:332 Santa Clara, Cuba 2:219 Santa Cruz, Bolivia 2:80–2:81 Santa Fe, Argentina 2:21 Santafe de Bogota, Colombia 2:177– 2:182 Santa Marta, Colombia 2:191 Santander, Spain 3:550 Santa Rosa de Copán, Honduras 2:332 Santiago, Chile 2:161–2:166 Santiago, Cuba see Santiago de Cuba, Cuba Santiago de Cuba, Cuba 2:218 Santiago, Dominican Republic 2:238 Santiago, Panama 2:433 Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic 2:233–2:238 Santos, Brazil 2:113 San Vicente, El Salvador 2:271 São Paulo, Brazil 2:97–2:102 São Tomè and Prìncipe 1:463–1:465 São Tomé 1:463 São Tomé, São Tomé and Príncipe 1:463 Sapporo, Japan 4:252–4:254 Saragossa, Spain 3:547–3:548 Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:57– 3:59 Sargodha, Pakistan 4:455 Sarh, Chad 1:108 Sarnia, Canada 2:152 Saskatoon, Canada 2:152 Sassandra, Côte d’Ivoire 1:153 Saudi Arabia 4:521–4:537 Al-Madinah 4:530 Dhahran 4:525–4:527 Hofuf 4:530 Makkah 4:530 Riyadh 4:521–4:525 Sault Sainte Marie, Canada 2:152 Savanna-La-Mar, Jamaica 2:350 Scarborough, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 Schaffhausen, Switzerland 3:584 Schiedam, Netherlands 3:416 Schwerin, Germany 3:211 Seenu Atoll, Maldives 4:350 Ségou, Mali 1:341 Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana 1:241 Selebi-Phikwe, Botswana 1:42–1:43 Semarang, Indonesia 4:205 Semipalatinsk, Kazakstan 4:270 Sendai, Japan 4:256 Senegal 1:467–1:477 Dakar 1:467–1:472 Diourbel 1:472 Kaolack 1:472 Louga 1:472 Rufisque 1:472 Saint-Louis 1:472 Tambacounda 1:472 Thiès 1:472 Ziguinchor 1:472 Seoul, Korea (South) 4:290–4:294 Serbia and Montenegro 3:509–3:515 Bar 3:511 Belgrade 3:509–3:511 Cetinje 3:511

671

Index Kotor 3:511 Nikšic 3:511 Niš 3:512 Novi Sad 3:512 Podgorica 3:512 Priština 3:512 Subotica 3:512 Seremban, Malaysia 4:343 Seria, Brunei 4:90 Serowe, Botswana 1:43 Sétif, Algeria 1:10 Setúbal, Portugal 3:466 Sevastopol, Ukraine 3:624 Seville, Spain 3:544–3:545 Seychelles 1:479–1:485 Victoria 1:479–1:480 Sfax, Tunisia 1:582 Shanghai, China 4:129–4:130 Sharjah, United Arab Emirates (UAE) 4:641 Shbaatar, Mongolia 4:379 Sheffield, United Kingdom 3:647 Shemakha, Azerbaijan 4:54 Shenyang, China 4:130–4:131 Shiráz, Iran 4:215 Shkodër, Albania 3:4–3:5 Shumen, Bulgaria 3:68 Sialkot, Pakistan 4:455 Šiauliai, Lithuania 3:362 Sibiu, Romania 3:478 Sidi-Bel-Abbes, Algeria 1:10 Sidon, Lebanon 3:350 Siem Reap, Cambodia 4:100 Siena, Italy 3:319 Sierra Leone 1:487–1:495 Bo 1:490 Freetown 1:487–1:490 Kenema 1:490 Makeni 1:490 Sikasso, Mali 1:341 Simferopol, Ukraine 3:624 Singapore 4:539–4:550 Jurong 4:545 Singapore 4:539–4:545 Singapore, Singapore 4:539–4:545 Sint Nicolaas, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Sinuiju, Korea (North) 4:282 Sirájganj, Bangladesh 4:75 Sittwe, Myanmar 4:391 Skien, Norway 3:433 Skikda, Algeria 1:10 Skopje, Macedonia 3:379–3:380 Sliema, Malta 3:387 Sliven, Bulgaria 3:68 Slovakia 3:517–3:526 Banská Bystrica 3:521 Bratislava 3:517–3:521 Košice 3:521 Piešt’any 3:521 Slovenia 3:527–3:537 Ljubljana 3:528–3:530 Maribor 3:530 Rogaška Slatina 3:530 Sofia, Bulgaria 3:64–3:67 Sokodé, Togo 1:566 Solomon Islands 4:551–4:555

672

Cities of the World Auki 4:552 Honiara 4:551–4:552 Somalia 1:497–1:505 Berbera 1:499 Hargeisa 1:499 Kismayu 1:499 Marka 1:500 Mogadishu 1:497–1:499 Songkhla, Thailand 4:610 Sonsonate, El Salvador 2:271 Sopron, Hungary 3:248 Sousse, Tunisia 1:582 South Africa 1:507–1:525 Benoni 1:515 Bloemfontein 1:515 Boksburg 1:515 Cape Town 1:511–1:512 Durban 1:512–1:514 Germiston 1:515 Johannesburg 1:514–1:515 Kimberley 1:515 Krugersdorp 1:516 Ladysmith 1:516 Paarl 1:516 Pietermaritzburg 1:516 Port Elizabeth 1:516 Pretoria 1:507 Roodepoort 1:516 Soweto 1:516 Springs 1:516 Vereeniging 1:516 Welkom 1:516 Southampton, United Kingdom 3:647 South Korea see Korea (South) Soviet Union (former) see Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan Soweto, South Africa 1:516 Spain 3:539–3:557 Badajoz 3:548 Badalona 3:548 Barcelona 3:543–3:544 Bilbao 3:546–3:547 Burgos 3:548 Cádiz 3:549 Cartagena 3:549 Castellón de la Plana 3:549 Córdoba 3:549 Gijón 3:549 Granada 3:549 La Coruña 3:549 León 3:550 Logroño 3:550 Madrid 3:539–3:543 Málaga 3:547 Murcia 3:550 Oviedo 3:550 Pamplona 3:550 Salamanca 3:550 San Sebastián 3:550 Santander 3:550 Saragossa 3:547–3:548 Seville 3:544–3:545

Toledo 3:551 Valencia 3:547 Valladolid 3:551 Vigo 3:551 Zamora 3:551 Spanish Town, Jamaica 2:350 Sparta, Greece 3:234 Split, Croatia 3:83 Springs, South Africa 1:516 Sri Lanka 4:557–4:569 Anuradhapura 4:561 Colombo 4:557–4:560 Galle 4:561 Kandy 4:560–4:561 Matara 4:562 Negombo 4:562 Ratnapura 4:562 Trincomalee 4:562 Stara Zagora, Bulgaria 3:68 Stavanger, Norway 3:430–3:431 Steyr, Austria 3:24 Stockholm, Sweden 3:559–3:564 Strasbourg, France 3:164–3:166 Stratford, Canada 2:152 Stuttgart, Germany 3:200–3:201 Subotica, Serbia and Montenegro 3:512 Sucre, Bolivia 2:81 Sudan 1:527–1:535 Atbarah 1:530 El Fasher 1:530 El-Gedaref 1:530 Jubá 1:530 Kassalá 1:530 Khartoum 1:527–1:530 Khartoum North 1:530 Omdurman 1:530 Port Sudan 1:531 Wadi Medani 1:531 Wau 1:531 Sudbury, Canada 2:152 Suez, Egypt 1:176 Sukhumi, Georgia 4:163 Sukkur, Pakistan 4:455 Sumgait, Azerbaijan 4:54 Surabaya, Indonesia 4:202–4:203 Surakarta, Indonesia 4:205 Surat, India 4:185 Suriname 2:491–2:499 Albina 2:493 Moengo 2:493 Nieuw-Nickerie 2:493 Paramaribo 2:491–2:493 Totness 2:493 Wageningen 2:493 Suva, Fiji 4:149–4:154 Suwón, Korea (South) 4:297 Suzhou, China 4:134 Swakopmund, Namibia 1:410 Swansea, United Kingdom 3:648 Swaziland 1:537–1:547 Manzini 1:540 Mbabane 1:537–1:540 Sweden 3:559–3:571 Göteborg 3:564–3:565 Halmstad 3:565 Helsingborg 3:565 Jönköping 3:565

Index

Cities of the World Karlstad 3:566 Kristianstad 3:566 Landskrona 3:566 Linköping 3:566 Malmö 3:565 Norrköping 3:566 Örebro 3:566 Stockholm 3:559–3:564 Uppsala 3:565 Västerås 3:566 Switzerland 3:573–3:589 Arosa 3:582 Basel 3:580–3:581 Bern 3:573–3:576 Biel 3:582 Chur 3:582 Fribourg 3:583 Geneva 3:576–3:579 Gstaad 3:583 Lausanne 3:581–3:582 Locarno 3:583 Lucerne 3:583 Lugano 3:583 Montreux 3:583 Neuchâtel 3:583 Saint Gall 3:583 Saint Moritz 3:584 Schaffhausen 3:584 Thun 3:584 Winterthur 3:582 Zug 3:584 Zurich 3:579–3:580 Sydney, Australia 4:39–4:41 Sylhet, Bangladesh 4:75 Syracuse, Italy 3:319 Syria 4:571–4:583 Aleppo 4:575–4:576 Damascus 4:571–4:575 Deir-ez-Zor 4:576 Der’á 4:576 Hama 4:576 Hasakeh 4:577 Homs 4:577 Latakia 4:576 Raqqa 4:577 Tartùs 4:577 Szczecin, Poland 3:450 Szeged, Hungary 3:247 Székesfehérvár, Hungary 3:248 Szombathely, Hungary 3:249

T Tabora, Tanzania 1:553 Tabriz, Iran 4:216 Taegu, Korea (South) 4:295 Tahoua, Niger 1:427 T’aichung, Taiwan 4:587 T’ainan, Taiwan 4:587–4:588 T’aipei, Taiwan 4:585–4:586 T’aitung, Taiwan 4:588 Taiwan 4:585–4:592 Chiai 4:588 Chungli 4:588 Hsinchu 4:588 Hualien 4:588 Kaohsiung 4:586–4:587

Keelung 4:588 T’aichung 4:587 T’ainan 4:587–4:588 T’aipei 4:585–4:586 T’aitung 4:588 Taiz, Yemen 4:685 Tajikistan 4:593–4:601 Dushanbe 4:593–4:595 Khudzhand 4:595 Kurgan-Tyube 4:595 Talca, Chile 2:168 Talcahuano, Chile 2:168 Tallinn, Estonia 3:132 Tamale, Ghana 1:241 Tamanrasset, Algeria 1:11 Tambacounda, Senegal 1:472 Tampere, Finland 3:146–3:148 Tampico, Mexico 2:392 Tangier, Morocco 1:380–1:382 Tanji, Gambia 1:230 Tanta, Egypt 1:177 Tanzania 1:549–1:559 Arusha 1:552 Bagamoyo 1:552 Bukoba 1:552 Dar es Salaam 1:549–1:551 Dodoma 1:552 Iringa 1:552 Lindi 1:552 Mbeya 1:552 Morogoro 1:552 Moshi 1:553 Mwanza 1:553 Tabora 1:553 Zanzibar 1:551–1:552 Taolanaro, Madagascar 1:314 Tarawa, Kiribati 4:275 Tarija, Bolivia 2:81 Tartu, Estonia 3:132 Tartùs, Syria 4:577 Tashauz, Turkmenistan 4:625 Tashkent, Uzbekistan 4:649–4:652 Tavoy, Myanmar 4:391 Taxco, Mexico 2:392 Tbilisi, Georgia 4:161–4:163 Tchibanga, Gabon 1:220 Tegucigalpa, Honduras 2:327–2:332 Tehrán, Iran 4:213–4:214 Tela, Honduras 2:332 Tel Aviv, Israel 3:283–3:287 Tema, Ghana 1:242 Temuco, Chile 2:168 Tepic, Mexico 2:392 Tete, Mozambique 1:396 Tétouan, Morocco 1:385 Thailand 4:603–4:618 Bangkok 4:603–4:608 Chiang Mai 4:608–4:610 Khon Kaen 4:611 Lampang 4:611 Nakhon Pathom 4:611 Nakhon Ratchasima 4:611 Phet Buri 4:612 Phuket 4:612 Songkhla 4:610 Udorn 4:610–4:611 Yala 4:612

The Bottom, Netherlands Antilles 2:409 Thessaloníki, Greece 3:228–3:232 Thetford Mines, Canada 2:153 Thiès, Senegal 1:472 Thika, Kenya 1:273 Thimphu, Bhutan 4:81–4:82 Thompson, Canada 2:153 Thunder Bay, Canada 2:153 Thun, Switzerland 3:584 Tianjin, China 4:134 Tiaret, Algeria 1:11 Tibet, China 4:135 Tijuana, Mexico 2:381 Tilburg, Netherlands 3:416 Timaru, New Zealand 4:425 Timiöoara, Romania 3:475–3:476 Tindouf, Algeria 1:11 Tiranë, Albania 3:3–3:4 Tiraspol, Moldova 3:398 Tîrgu-Mureö, Romania 3:478 Tlemcen, Algeria 1:11 Toamasina, Madagascar 1:314 Tobago see Trinidad and Tobago Tobruk, Libya 1:304 Tofua, Tonga 4:620 Togo 1:561–1:573 Aného 1:565 Atakpamé 1:566 Dapaong 1:566 Kpalimé 1:566 Lome 1:561–1:565 Mango 1:566 Sokodé 1:566 Tsévié 1:566 Tokmak, Kyrgyzstan 4:318 Tokyo, Japan 4:235–4:241 Tolbukhin, Bulgaria 3:68 Toledo, Spain 3:551 Toliary, Madagascar 1:314 Toluca, Mexico 2:392 Tombouctou, Mali 1:342 Tonga 4:619–4:622 Nuku’alofa 4:619–4:620 Tofua 4:620 Tongsa, Bhutan 4:82 Tonsberg, Norway 3:433 Toronto, Canada 2:127–2:130 Tororo, Uganda 1:592 Totness, Suriname 2:493 Touggourt, Algeria 1:11 Toulon, France 3:172 Toulouse, France 3:172–3:173 Tourcoing, France 3:181 Tournai, Belgium 3:52 Tours, France 3:181 Tralee, Ireland 3:275 Treinta y Tres, Uruguay 2:525 Triesen, Liechtenstein 3:356 Trieste, Italy 3:314 Trincomalee, Sri Lanka 4:562 Trinidad and Tobago 2:501–2:514 Arima 2:506 Chaguanas 2:507 La Brea 2:507 Lopinot 2:507 Port-of-Spain 2:501–2:506 Saint Joseph 2:507

673

Index San Fernando 2:507 Sangre Grande 2:507 Scarborough 2:507 Tunapuna 2:507 Trinidad, Bolivia 2:81 Trinidad, Cuba 2:219 Tripoli, Lebanon 3:349 Tripoli, Libya 1:301–1:303 Tripolis, Greece 3:234 Trois Rivières, Canada 2:153 Tromsø, Norway 3:431 Trondheim, Norway 3:429–3:430 Troyes, France 3:181 Trujillo, Peru 2:465 Tsévié, Togo 1:566 Tsumeb, Namibia 1:411 Tulcán, Ecuador 2:258 Tulsipur, Nepal 4:408 Tuluá, Colombia 2:191 Tumaco, Colombia 2:191 Tunapuna, Trinidad and Tobago 2:507 Tunis, Tunisia 1:575–1:579 Tunisia 1:575–1:587 Béja 1:581 Bizerta 1:581 Gabès 1:581 Hammamet 1:581 Kairouan 1:580–1:581 La Goulette 1:581 Mahdia 1:581 Menzil-Bourguiba 1:581 Moknine 1:581 Monastir 1:579–1:580 Nabeul 1:582 Qafsah 1:582 Sfax 1:582 Sousse 1:582 Tunis 1:575–1:579 Tunja, Colombia 2:191 Turin, Italy 3:314–3:316 Turkey 3:591–3:616 Adana 3:600–3:602 Ankara 3:592–3:596 Antalya 3:604 Bursa 3:604 Eskiöehir 3:605 Gaziantep 3:605 Istanbul 3:596–3:600 Kayseri 3:605 Kirikkale 3:605 Konya 3:605 Maraö 3:605 Mersin 3:605 Samsun 3:605 Turkmenistan 4:623–4:632 Ashgabat 4:623–4:625 Chardzhou 4:625 Mary 4:625 Nebit-Dag 4:625 Tashauz 4:625 Turks and Caicos Islands 2:515–2:517 Grand Turk 2:515 Turku, Finland 3:148 Tuvalu 4:633–4:635 Funafuti 4:633 Tuzla, Bosnia-Herzegovina 3:59 Tyre, Lebanon 3:350

674

Cities of the World

U UAE see United Arab Emirates Udorn, Thailand 4:610–4:611 Uganda 1:589–1:597 Entebbe 1:591 Jinja 1:591 Kabale 1:591 Kampala 1:589–1:591 Kisoro 1:591 Masaka 1:591 Mbale 1:591 Mbarara 1:591 Moroto 1:592 Tororo 1:592 Ujung Pandang, Indonesia 4:206 UK see United Kingdom Ukraine 3:617–3:631 Dnepropetrovsk 3:623 Donetsk 3:623 Kerch 3:624 Kharkov 3:622–3:623 Kherson 3:624 Kiev 3:618–3:622 Kirovograd 3:624 Lutsk 3:624 Lviv 3:623 Mukachovo 3:624 Nikolayev 3:624 Odessa 3:623 Poltava 3:624 Sevastopol 3:624 Simferopol 3:624 Uzhgorod 3:624 Vinnitsa 3:624 Zaporozhye 3:625 Zhitomir 3:625 Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia 4:375–4:378 Ulsan, Korea (South) 4:297 Umm Said, Qatar 4:508 United Arab Emirates 4:637–4:647 Abu Dhabi 4:638–4:640 Al-Ain 4:641 Dubai 4:640–4:641 Ras al-Khaimah 4:642 Sharjah 4:641 United Kingdom 3:633–3:654 Aberdeen 3:646 Armagh 3:646 Belfast 3:638–3:641 Birmingham 3:644 Bristol 3:646 Cardiff 3:646 Coventry 3:646 Dover 3:646 Edinburgh 3:641–3:644 Glasgow 3:644 Leeds 3:645 Liverpool 3:644–3:645 London 3:633–3:638 Londonderry 3:646 Manchester 3:645–3:646 Newcastle-upon-Tyne 3:646 Newry 3:647 Nottingham 3:647 Plymouth 3:647 Portsmouth 3:647

Sheffield 3:647 Southampton 3:647 St. Andrews 3:647 Swansea 3:648 Uppsala, Sweden 3:565 Uruguay 2:519–2:531 Colonia del Sacramento 2:524 Fray Bentos 2:524 Minas 2:525 Montevideo 2:519–2:524 Paysandú 2:525 Punta del Este 2:525 Rivera 2:525 Salto 2:525 Treinta y Tres 2:525 USSR (former) see Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan Ústí Nad Labem, Czech Republic 3:110 Utrecht, Netherlands 3:412–3:413 Utsunomiya, Japan 4:256 Uzbekistan 4:649–4:658 Andizhan 4:652 Bukhara 4:652 Samarkand 4:652 Tashkent 4:649–4:652 Uzhgorod, Ukraine 3:624

V Vaasa, Finland 3:149 Vacoas-Phoenix, Mauritius 1:366 Vaduz, Liechtenstein 3:355–3:356 Valdivia, Chile 2:169 Valence, France 3:181 Valencia, Spain 3:547 Valencia, Venezuela 2:543 Valladolid, Spain 3:551 Valledupar, Colombia 2:191 Valletta, Malta 3:385–3:387 Valparaíso, Chile 2:166 Vancouver, Canada 2:136–2:138 Vantaa, Finland 3:149 Vanuatu 4:659–4:662 Port-Vila 4:659–4:660 Varanasi, India 4:185 Varna, Bulgaria 3:67 Västerås, Sweden 3:566 Vejle, Denmark 3:122 Venezuela 2:533–2:549 Barquisimeto 2:542 Caracas 2:533–2:540 Ciudad Bolívar 2:542 Colonia Tovar 2:542 Cumaná 2:542 Maracaibo 2:540–2:542 Maracay 2:542 Mérida 2:542 San Cristóbal 2:543 Valencia 2:543 Venice, Italy 3:317 Ventspils, Latvia 3:342 Veracruz, Mexico 2:393 Vereeniging, South Africa 1:516

Index

Cities of the World Versailles, France 3:181 Verviers, Belgium 3:52 Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland 3:259 Veszprém, Hungary 3:249 Vianden, Luxembourg 3:373 Victoria, Canada 2:148 Victoria, Malta 3:387 Victoria, Seychelles 1:479–1:480 Vienna, Austria 3:15–3:20 Vientiane, Laos 4:323–4:326 Vietnam 4:663–4:677 Da Nang 4:669–4:670 Dalat 4:671 Haiphong 4:669 Hanoi 4:663–4:667 Ho Chi Minh City 4:667–4:669 Hué 4:670–4:671 Nha Trang 4:671 Qui Nhon 4:671 Vigo, Spain 3:551 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal 3:466 Villach, Austria 3:24 Villarrica, Paraguay 2:449 Villavicencio, Colombia 2:192 Vilnius, Lithuania 3:359–3:362 Viña del Mar, Chile 2:166 Vinnitsa, Ukraine 3:624 Vitebsk, Belarus 3:33 Vladivostok, Russia 3:491 Vlorë, Albania 3:6 Voinjama, Liberia 1:294 Volgograd, Russia 3:495 Vólos, Greece 3:234

W Wadi Medani, Sudan 1:531 Wageningen, Suriname 2:493 Walvis Bay, Namibia 1:410 Warsaw, Poland 3:443–3:444 Waterford, Ireland 3:275 Waterloo, Belgium 3:52 Wau, Sudan 1:531 Welkom, South Africa 1:516 Wellington, New Zealand 4:417–4:421 Wels, Austria 3:24 Western Samoa see Samoa Wewak, Papua New Guinea 4:474 Wexford, Ireland 3:275

Whangarei, New Zealand 4:425 Whitehorse, Canada 2:153 Wiener Neustadt, Austria 3:24 Wiesbaden, Germany 3:211 Willemstad, Netherlands Antilles see Curaçao, Netherlands Antilles Windhoek, Namibia 1:403–1:410 Windsor, Canada 2:148 Windward, Grenada 2:282 Winnipeg, Canada 2:144–2:146 Winterthur, Switzerland 3:582 Wollongong, Australia 4:44 Wonsan, Korea (North) 4:281 Wrocïaw, Poland 3:449 Wuhan, China 4:133 Wuppertal, Germany 3:211

X Xi’an, China 4:135 Xochimilco, Mexico 2:393

Y Yala, Thailand 4:612 Yamoussoukro, Côte d’Ivoire 1:152 Yangon, Myanmar 4:386–4:390 Yangshuo, China 4:135 Yaounde, Cameroon 1:71–1:75 Yaren District, Nauru 4:399 Yazd, Iran 4:216 Yekaterinburg, Russia 3:494 Yellowknife, Canada 2:153 Yemen 4:679–4:691 Aden 4:684 Al-Mukallá 4:685 Dhamár 4:685 Hodeida 4:685 Ibb 4:685 Sa’dah 4:686 Sanaa 4:679–4:684 Taiz 4:685 Yerevan, Armenia 4:14–4:17 Yogyakarta, Indonesia 4:206 Yokohama, Japan 4:241–4:243 Yokosuka, Japan 4:256 Yósu, Korea (South) 4:297 Yugoslavia see Serbia and Montenegro

Z Zaanstad, Netherlands 3:416 Zacapa, Guatemala 2:297 Zacatecas, Mexico 2:393 Zacatecoluca, El Salvador 2:271 Zadar, Croatia 3:83 Zagazig, Egypt 1:177 Zagreb, Croatia 3:75–3:82 Záhedán, Iran 4:216 Zaire see Congo (Kinshasa) Zambia 1:599–1:607 Chingola 1:602 Kabwe 1:602 Kitwe 1:602 Livingstone 1:603 Luanshya 1:603 Lusaka 1:599–1:602 Mbala 1:603 Mongu 1:603 Mufulira 1:603 Ndola 1:603 Zamboanga, Philippines 4:495 Zamora, Spain 3:551 Zanzibar, Tanzania 1:551–1:552 Zaporozhye, Ukraine 3:625 Zaria, Nigeria 1:446 Zarqa, Jordan 3:330 Zhitomir, Ukraine 3:625 Zibo, China 4:135 Ziguinchor, Senegal 1:472 Zimbabwe 1:609–1:620 Bulawayo 1:612 Gweru 1:612 Harare 1:609–1:612 Hwange 1:612 Kadoma 1:613 Kwe Kwe 1:613 Masvingo 1:613 Mutare 1:613 Nyanda 1:613 Zinder, Niger 1:427 Zlín, Czech Republic 3:110 Zomba, Malawi 1:327 Zouérate, Mauritania 1:356 Zug, Switzerland 3:584 Zurich, Switzerland 3:579–3:580 Zwickau, Germany 3:211 Zwolle, Netherlands 3:416

675