California downhill 0918373107, 9780918373106

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Stephen Metzgeii

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CALIFORNIA

DOWNHILL STEPHEN

MET2GER

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2010

http://www.archive.org/details/californiadownhiOOmetz

CALIFORNIA

DOWNHILL STEPHEN

MET2GER

nriGon PUBLICPTION6

Please send

comments,

all

rections, additions,

and

cor-

amendments

critiques to:

STEPHEN METZGER PUBLICATIONS

MOON

P.O.

Chico,

Box 1696

CA

95927,

USA

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Published by

Moon

Publications

Box 1696

P.O.

Chico, California 95927,

Printed

by

Colorcraft Ltd.,

All

USA

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Rights Reserved 1986 Stephen Metzger

Library of

Congress Cataloging

in

Publication Data

Metzger, Stephen, 1954California Downhill Bibliography: p. 141

Includes index. 1.

and

— California — Guide-books. — California. 3. California — Description

Skis and skiing

2. Ski resorts

travel —

1

—Guide-books. 1986 917.94

981

GV854.5.C2M47

ISBN

All rights reserved.

tracts

I.

Title.

86-12828

0-918373-10^7

No

by a reviewer

book may be translated or reproduced in any form, except brief expurpose of a review, without written permission of the copyright owner.

part of this

for the

Although the publishers have made every effort to ensure the information was correct at the time of going to press, the publishers do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, or any potential travel disruption due to labor or financial difficulty, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

For Betz, for answering when I called ''Single," and for staying with me on the run

I'll be knockin' on the golden door. Like an angel, standin' in a shaft of light

California, Risin' I

up

to paradise.

know I'm gonna

shine.

—Bob Weir & John Barlow

is there?" Nick said. drop off on a long run." —Ernest Hemingway

"There's nothing really can touch skiing,

"The way

it

feels

when you

first

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS At the

risk of

sounding

like

an

whom

Academy Award winner

for best

key

grip, I'd like to

thank

book would be nothing more than a wild idea and an empty floppy disk: My parents, who didn't cringe too visibly when told them wanted to be a ski bum; Wayne "Wolfman" Scace, who got me my first job at a ski resort; Gary Fowler, who gave me my first writing assignment — and then published the story; Pat Cochran and Neil Stebbins of Powder Magazine; Ken Conner, who said, "You take one free lift ticket while you're working on this thing and the integrity of the whole project's shot" (those who know Ken know "shot" wasn't the word he used); E. S. Munson III for the cover of California Downhill; Diana Lasich for her illustrations; Gordy Ohiiger for his cartoons; Mark Morris, Dave Hurst, and Louise Foote of Moon Publications for their editing, design work and exquisite maps; Deke Castleman, also of Moon, who, as chief editor, combines intelligence, ruthlessness, and compassion in his work and who has actually been more of a collaborator on this book than an editor; Bill Dalton, Rear Admiral at Moon, for his patience and faith; Bill Wyman, for his Mammoth guidance and operating systems assistance; Matt Arness and Rick Hughes of Hughes Ski Hut for their storehouse of quality equipment, service, and advice; Doug Smith of Rossignol Skis; and everyone else who has helped and encouraged me over the years — you know who you are. several people without

this

I

IS

THIS

BOOK OUT OF DATE?

Sometime between May and October

of

each year, ski resorts look at the previous season's books and decide what their rates will be for the upcoming year. We went to press

last

April,

to

make

sure California

Downhill was out in time for the first part of this season, and it would have been impossible to include this year's prices.

The

rates

last year's, and should be comparison than for precimind that most ski resorts — in

quoted, then, are

used more sion.

Keep

for in

keeping with inflation — raise their prices each year. It'd be more than safe to count on a $2 increase across the board.

As businesses, ski resorts are subject to the same problems (low sales, high insurance premiums,

etc)

bakeries are.

that

shoe

Though the

stores

and

bigger ones tend

to be mostly stable, the smaller

ones come

and go, change hands, fold. Tahoe Ski Bowl, after an odd experiment in "members filed for bankruptcy just last Mountain lost its liability insrurance and shut down. Even as we went to press, was on the phone to a number of

only" skiing, year.

Iron

I

I

ski resorts trying to

from

everything

get the latest scoop on

plans

expansion

for

to

policies regarding disabled skiers. California

Downhill

as up-to-date as such an ex-

is

haustive guide can be, and although

my

may be

best to avoid them, there

I

did

gaps.

You might even plain

wrong.

If

find something that's just you do, let me know. I'll take

your corrections into consideration research the next edition.

when

I

I'd also like to use more photos in upcoming editions. If you've got good black and white glossies or color slides and would like to see them published, send them along and I'll take a look (please send duplicates; we will most likely be unable to return them). Your photos will become the proper-

ty of

Moon

Publications, but

if

we

free

Send

copy.

respondence

all

to:

Stephen Metzger c/o

Moon

use any,

book and get a photos and cor-

you'll receive credit in the

Publications

Box 1696 Chico, CA 95927

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION DISTRICT

I:

1

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

7 9

Cedar Pass Mt. Shasta Ski Park

11

Lassen Park Ski Area

14

Stover Mountain

17

Coppervale

19

Plumas-Eureka Ski Bowl

21

DISTRICT

II:

LAKE TAHOE

23 27

Donner Pass Area

Soda Springs Ski Area Sugar Bowl Donner Ski Ranch

29

Boreal

36

Truckee

38 40

31

34

Tahoe Donner

42 45

Northstar-At-Tahoe

Squaw

USA

Valley

Alpine

Meadows

49

Tahoe

City

52

Granlibakken

55

Homewood

56

Tahoe

59

Ski

Bowl

South Lake Tahoe

60

Heavenly Valley

66 70 72

Echo Summit Ski Area Ranch Kirkwood

Sierra Ski

DISTRICT

III:

75

CENTRAL CALIFORNIA

79

Cottage Springs

81

Mt. Reba

Dodge Ridge

82 85

Badger Pass

88

June Mountain Mammoth Mountain

91

Sierra

/

Bear Valley

Wolverton Ski Area Shirley

Meadows

DISTRICT Mt.

94 98

Summit

IV:

Waterman

101 1

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

02

107 110

Kratka Ridge

112

Mt. Baldy

114

Wrightwood

117

Ski Sunrise

118

Mountain High

1

Big Bear Lake

123

Ski Green Valley

125

Snow Valley Snow Forest Snow Summit

126 1

Goldmine

35 139 143

1

INDEX

KEY TO MAPS OVERVIEW MAPS

RESORl

INTERSTATE HIGHWAY FEDERAL

HIGHWAY

STATE HIGHWAY

FREEWAY MAIN ROUTE

SECONDARY ROUTE

^

SKI

30

.132

APPENDIX

o o

20

RESORT

SKI DISTRICT

CITIES/

BOUNDARY

TOWNS

INTRODUCTION Traditionally, of course, a

tion first describes the

whom

book's introduc-

book

itself:

what

it's

how to use it, should buy it. don't know about you, though, but almost always turn to the back pages of a book I'm thinking about buying, to the "About the Author" section; want to know what about,

it's

and, obviously,

intended

for,

why you

I

I

I

qualifies

him or her to say something for might lay out my hard-earned cash.

which

I

So

me

let

describe myself briefly here, and

then we'll get on to the business of the book. First, and most foremost, I'm a skier. Now if you're saying to yourself, "Well, should hope so," hang on to your stretch pants there a minute. Not everyone who I

recommends

things to other people actually

have simply written away for the brochures the resorts put out, reworded the descrip-

and reproduced the maps. But I've been to all these ski resorts. Every single one of them. And didn't take a single comtions,

I

plimentary

lift

ticket (although

I

was

offered

many), and didn't seek out PR people and grand tours; wanted to see these places exI

I

you would: high prices, lift lines and all. And when visited them, not only examined them as a skier would, but because I've worked at ski resorts in Colorado and California, and have skied in Utah, as well as the French and Italian Alps, judged them with an insider's eye and a feeling for what makes them tick— or in some cases of why they need winding. actly as

I

I

I

does those things; not everyone who suggests you go somewhere has actually been

The other

some of the other ski guides right there on the shelves

ing. But it doesn't. Especially, again, in the genre of guidebooks. Listen to a sentence

there. In fact, the authors of

thing

you should know is that I'm go without say-

a writer. Again, that should

..

2

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

CALIFORNIA SKI RESORTS 1

2.

3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8. 9.

Cedar Pass Mt. Shasta Ski Park Mt. Lassen Ski Area Stover Mountain Coppervale Ski Hill Plumas Eureka Ski Bowl Soda Springs Sugar Bowl Donner Ski Ranch

10. Boreal

Squaw

1 1

13.

Valley

USA

Meadows

12. Alpine

Tahoe Donner

14. Northstar-at-Tahoe 15. Granlibakken 16.

Homewood

17.

Tahoe

18.

Heavenly Valley Echo Summit Ski Area

19.

Ski

20. Sierra Ski

21

.

Bowl

Ranch

Kirkwood

22. Cottage Springs

23. Mt. Reba/Bear Valley 24.

Dodge Ridge

25. Badger Pass 26. 27.

June Mountain Mammoth Mountain

28. Sierra 29.

Summit

Wolverton

30. Shirley

31

Mt.

.

Meadows

Waterman

32. Kratka Ridge 33. Mt. Baldy

34. Ski Sunrise 35.

Mountain High Green Valley

36. Ski

Snow Valley Snow Forest 39. Snow Summit

37.

38.

40.

Goldmine

INTRODUCTION 3 from one of the the popular ski guides: "Information, restrooms, and lift tickets can be obtained in the lower lodge." Great. Once I've "obtained" my restroom what do do with it? Attach it to my belt loop? Anyway, I

I've

written

for

number

a

of

national

magazines and newspapers over the five

years,

most germane

in

this

last

case.

Powder Magazine, while spending my nonwriting hours teaching remedial, technical,

and creative writing

at the university level.

What about

the book then? Okay. We're talking budget guide here. How to ski a lot for a

little.

Where to ski more for less. Where Where to eat. Where to kids. Where to stash your parents.

to sleep cheap.

dump the I

mean,

let's

not

fool

ourselves.

For

a

number of reasons (not the least of which is the skyrocketing cost the resorts must pay insurance), this crazy sport's gotten obscenely expensive of late: $300 for a pair of skis, $75-1 50 for a pair of bindings, $200 for boots. And then the lift ticket. Up to $30 for

just for the privilege of patronizing a place

of business.

Nonetheless, ski resorts need our business. And though they count on the average skier to plunk down the full price for a lift ticket— and the average skier obliges —

almost

all

of

them

offer a variety of deals

and discounts. From multiple-day discounts to deals for senior citizens, students,

AAA

members, disabled skiers, and militarv personnel. From mid-week discounts to deals with nearby— and sometimes not so nearby—sporting goods stores that give coupons for discounts with or without purchases. Also

common

right

down

the street con-

dos and highrises are charging upwards of $75 for a night of shut-eye. Some resorts don't mind if you sleep in your car, or camper, or motorhome in their parking lots (although you should always check with an employee to find out where, and be prepared to move during the night, especially if a storm blows in and the lot needs plowing). Some allow you to eat "brown-bag" lunches in their lodges, which can also save

you big bucks.

In addition, I've sought out inexpensive but generous-in-their-servings places to eat breakfast and dinner (less for

lunch — figure you'll be skiing at lunch time last thing you'll want to do is come I

and the

down off the mountain to look for a deli), and committed as am to in-the-trenches reporting, sampled them myself, thank I

I

you.

How

the book organized? For the most There are 40 resorts in the state, and the northernnmost, Cedar Pass, is over 600 miles from the most is

part, geographically.

southerly. Goldmine. They're listed 1-40, working north to south (with obvious side trips east and west). The state itself is divided into four geographical regions: District I, Northern California, basically everything north of Sacramento, excluding Tahoe; District II, the Lake Tahoe Area, from Donner Pass to Kirkwood; District III, Central California, from Sacramento south to the San Bernardino and Kern County lines; and District IV, Southern California, the ski areas in

the land of surfboards, Disneyland, and

freeways.

are "Ladies' Days,"

"Men's Days," and "Anniversary Days" (Donner Ski Ranch, for example, rolls back its prices for a whole week once a year to what they were in the '50s). If you pay attention to these various deals, you can save a bundle over the course of a season — maybe even enough to afford a

yourself

few more days'

when

for $10-15,

skiing.

Within each geographical region, the individual resorts are covered in depth: where on the mountain to ski, where to rent equipment nearby, discounts on tickets, where to see a movie at day's end. The maps of the resorts are designed to give you an idea of the layout of the mountain— runs, lifts, relative size— not to replace resorts' trail

maps, which are usually more detailed and

And and

if

you're careful about

where you stay

you can save even more. Believe it and dormitories near some of the major ski resorts still offer beds eat,

or not, youth hostels

better suited for parka pockets. Lastly, the

"At

A

Glance" sections will give you the about the resorts you're considering: from phone numbers to rates to vital statistics

4

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL rental facilities. In short, I've tried to include

you should need to know to decide where, when, and how to go. all

CALIFORNIA

DOWNHILL

And

DISTRICTS

to use

that's the

bottom

This book

line here.

Monday through Thursday,

is

before

you leave for the mountains, on Friday evening as you sit by the fire and try to decide where you'll ski tomorrow, and late Saturday afternoon, after a hard day's skiing,

when

you're looking for a place to get a and a pitcher of beer (or a huge pitcher of beer and a pizza).

huge

pizza

Accommodations Under this section, you'll find a variety of lodging options, sometimes including condos and hotels, but more often inexpensive motels and dorms. Prices for double rooms phone numbers. Call

are included, as are

ahead

for reservations

the sooner you

call

whenever

possible;

the better your chances

of getting inexpensive lodging.

Food This

discusses

section

the

resorts'

on-

mountain facilities— snack huts, cafeterias, and restaurants — as well as recommended breakfast and dinner places nearby. Phone

numbers

of dinner establishments are also

included;

whenever

again,

possible

call

ahead.

Deals and Discounts The "Deals and Discounts" section will inform you as to what kinds of lift-ticket discounts

are

available

senior citizens,

— groups,

students,

mid-week packages,

Kids Although very few California

ski

etc.

areas offer

most offer special lessons and on-snow programs for children. These child care per se,

are included

in this

section.

Disabled Skiers Only recently have ski areas begun to acknowledge handicapped skiers. Most notable is Alpine Meadows' ski school for the blind; their generally encouraging attitude is

toward skiers with various

crowned by

their

disabilities

hosting of the Lake

INTRODUCTION 5

three-track racers:

amputees with "outriggers"

Tahoe Disabled Meadows").

Skier

Program (see "Alpine

Commerce has ically for

published a pamphlet specif-

disabled visitors.

It

lists,

among

He

other things, which hotels have ramps and restrooms with facilities for the disabled.

and uses very short poles, which he plants and uses to turn around. But he's found different ski resorts have

You can get this pamphlet by writing the South Lake Tahoe Chamber of Commerce, Box 1 5090, South Lake Tahoe, CA

very different policies regarding "sit-skiers"

95702, or by calling 916/541-5255.

A friend

one of the best wheelchair

of mine,

tennis players

in

the country, loves to

ski.

skis in a sled

as he. Some resorts insist he be tethered to a "normal" skier, who skis along

Cross Country

behind, holding the rope. Others won't

times of the

Although I've included brief sections on the major nordic ski centers, as well as those

runs that get the most congested.

that are incorporated with alpine resorts,

such

him on certain runs

day— the Still

others won't

their

insurance

let

at certain

him

policies

ski at

all,

disallow

let

claiming it.

others actually offer him discounts on

Yet lift

tickets (at Kratka Ridge, in fact, the disabled ski

free).

logistical

at the

my

And

of

problems

tops of

course,

there

off the slopes:

stairs, for

example.

are the

restrooms I've tried

best to consider the disabled skier

in this

book, although as a non-disabled skier, it's been mostly speculation. If you're a disabled

— know one— who's had success at particular ski resort, write and let me know

skier

a

or

about it for inclusion in the next edition. See below ("Is This Book Out of Date?").

Note: The South Lake Tahoe Chamber of

book concentrates on downhill skiing. a number of fine books are available on cross-country skiing; among them are Ski Touring in California by David Beck (1980, Wilderness Press), and Ski Tours in the Sierra Nevada (3 volumes) by Marcus Lipkind (1985, Bittersweet Publishing Company). this

Currently,

Of Special Interest Included here

is

anything and everything and non-

that might be of interest to skiers

and nearby museums to helicopter skiing and suggestions for when, where, and how to prepurchase lift tickets. skiers alike— from colorful history

6

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Getting There This section

tells

you the best way to get to

the particular ski resort, either via major

highways or from nearby towns. "Getting There" is not intended to act in place of a

good

At

A

This

California road

map, but with

it.

Glance is

perhaps the most useful section of

each chapter. Included are addresses and phone numbers, elevation, vertical drop, uphill capacity, rates, hours, degrees of difficulty (by the resort's estimation, not

mine)

and amenities, including day care, snowmaking, shuttle service, night skiing, and whether snow boards, "brown bagging," and overnight parking are allowed.

So,

if

you're ready, so

am

I.

Let's

go

skiing.

DISTRICT

I:

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA Ski Resorts

Cedar Pass Mt. Shasta Ski Park

Mt. Lassen Ski Area

Most Northern Californians feel a bit smug about where they live, and they should; and for the most part, they don't want to associate with Southern California and its residents. They shouldn't have to. The state capital's newspaper. The Sacramento Bee, acknowledges pre-eminence by titling a daily section "Superior California." Of course, it's a play on the geographical term, but it's an accurate description as well. For example, we generous Northern Californians supply our thirsty brethren to the south with much of their drinking water— from our

Stover Mountain

Coppervale Ski Hill Plumas-Eureka Ski Bowl

mountain

and

lakes

streams.

Northern

considerably less developed than the southland, and it's got much more to offer in terms of natural beauty, clean air, open spaces and elbow room. California

What many

is

also

people,

especially

Southern

grasp is that Northern Californians are, on the whole, much smarter than the folks in the state's lower latitudes. They're healthier, emotionally and physically stronger. They're more sensitive. They're able to make better use of Californians,

also

fail

to

8

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

their

opposable thumbs. Sorry, but genet-

ically superior.

among

For this reason,

common

others,

it's

not un-

to hear northern Californians

wax-

ing emotional about dividing the state into

north and south. line

And

just

where should

that

be drawn? Good question. You see,

most northern

Californians, with

all

good

in-

tentions, define "Northern California" as the

distance between the Oregon border and a line 50 miles or so south of where they live.

DISTRICT

20 1

I

1

I

Can you blame them? They just want to be part of that elite corp, and they don't like the idea of those not qualified creeping up from the south. But you can see the problem. Sacramentans would have the border just north of Oakland; San Franciscans would have it just north of San Jose; and San Luis Obispoans — well, they'd be lucky to be included at at all. (Believe it or not, they do consider themselves Northern Californians.)

And what does Northern

California

have to

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA 9 offer in

terms of snow skiing? Only some of in the state. Of course, that includes Tahoe, but, for the uninformed, there's also

The very

the best

Hemisphere took place

excellent skiing farther north. Mt. Shasta,

area

if

has some of the finest skiing and the most incredible views anywhere in the country. And, if you're unwilling to climb it, Mt. Shasta also has a small ski resort on the southwest side. Watch out, though: it won't be long before Mt. Shasta Ski Park triples in size and will offer skiing to rival any at Tahoe. Also, a new ski resort is planned to go in on Forest Service land around the corner from the Ski Park you're willing to climb

it,

first

town south

races

ski

in

in

the Western

Johnsville, a small

of Quincy; today a small ski

— Plumas-Eureka

Ski

Bowl— operates

out of Johnsville. Lastly,

nowhere but

in

Northern California

can you "ski a volcano." Mt. Lassen Ski Area, in Lassen National Park, offers the visitor the chance to ski— or snowshoe or hike— alongside steaming sulphur pits and smoky fumaroles on the side of an active volcano.

So that's Northern California. Sorry if stepped on any toes, but hey, sometimes I

sometime before 1988.

And no one could

Northern

challenge

the truth's gotta hurt.

California's place in the history of skiing.

CEDAR PASS If

we were to

give an award to the California

has rooms starting at $25/double. There's RV park at the Sunrise, as well as a

ski resort

also an

it

laundromat

most out in the middle of nowhere would go to Cedar Pass. Hands down.

Located about 20 miles northeast of Alturas, in the far northeastern corner of the state, this small day-use-only area has recently incorporated, and a new platter lift has been installed alongside the rope tow that has run skiers up the mountain since the early

In addition to the expanded acreage at Cedar Pass, this year will see expanded facilities. Slopes will be groomed, food will be available at the warming hut, there may even be ski rentals, and hours of operation may be increased from Wednesdays and weekends only (owners were uncertain at press time; call ahead before coming). This

make

for a nice

dedicated skiers

in

turns

in

little

ski

hill

a

stem

Christies

friendly,

casual

mosphere without the trappings

of

and

grubby

doubles for about $20.

Food Kitchen on Main Street in Cedarville is American sense. The folks are friendly, and the waitresses know the local ranchers by name. Breakfasts run $2.25-6.95 (steak and eggs), and three-egg omelettes are about $3. Burgers and patty melts highlight the lunch menu and go for about $3, and a spaghetti dinner will cost you all of $5. A huge piece of lia's

homemade

(91

6/279-21 61

)

in

about three miles east of the

apple pie

is

$1 .25.

Deals and Discounts Kids five and under ski free at Cedar Pass.

Getting There

Go

Accommodations The Sunrise Motel

delicious

at-

the

larger resorts.

ville,

for

where

the far north part of the

state can practice their parallel

showers

a classic diner in the true

1940s.

will all

and

passers-through. In Alturas, the Drifter's Inn (916/233-2428) has singles for $18 and

Cedarski

hill.

six miles north of Alturas on Highway 395; then turn east on 299. Cedar Pass Ski Hill is just past Cedar Pass and about a mile off the main highway on County Road 195

(unpaved).

10

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

CEDAR PASS AT A GLANCE

1

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

MT.

SHASTA

Veteran California skiers have always

some

known

on the side of 14,262-foot Mt. Shasta. The problem, though, has always been with accessibility, or lack thereof. Even during the that

of the best skiing

in

the state

is

20-year period that the old ski resort (Mt.

Shasta Ski Bowl) delivered skiers up the mountain, it was often closed: built entirely above timberline it was at the mercy of the brutal weather for which Shasta is notorious. Then, after the ski bowl was wiped out by an avalanche in 1978, downhillers intent on skiing Shasta were forced to lash their skis to their packs or sling them over their shoulders and hike up. It might have been some of the best skiing in the state, but two hours of hiking to get to ten minutes of it reduced the incentive to right around zero for all but the hardiest and most ambitious downhill mountaineers.

1

PARK

SKI

south of Mt. Shasta City (the road is expected to be paved in time for the 1 986-87 season).

At press time, plans were under way to install still another chair, which would open up another 1 ,000-1 ,200 acres of skiing and put Mt. Shasta Ski Park in the same league as Alpine Meadows at Lake Tahoe. It also would increase the vertical drop from 1,150 feet to over 2,600. Unlike the old Ski Bowl, the

was

new

Ski Park

below the timberline. In fact, its base is at a mere 5,500 feet, which makes it less likely to be plagued by the whiteouts and winds that can turn semis over, although of course this also means it's more susceptible to warm-weather storms and low snow levels.

A

built

resort, Mt. Shasta Ski even with its space age-looking lift "shacks," has the feel and atmosphere of

family-oriented

Park,

Thankfully, access

is

no longer a problem.

The summer of 1985 saw the construction of two triple chairs, one poma lift, a 7,500-square-foot facilities for

of over

200 acres

made the

lodge

excellent

of skiable terrain (which

Ski Park the largest in the northern

quarter of the state by over

brand

(with

disabled skiers), the preparation

new

1 25 acres), and a access road off Highway 89

the

backwoods kind

of ski area that

it is.

The

nearest towns, besides Mt. Shasta City— all stoplights of it— are Weed and Dunsmuir, their combined populations under 5,000— and Sacramento is 170 miles south. So, Shasta isn't for jetsetters; it's for folks with both feet (and four wheels) on the

three

ground.

It's

less for the color-coordinated

12

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

MT.SHASTA

SKI

PARK

ACRES)

(1500

^mk

and more

for the Pendleton-jacketed. But

how you

matter

wearing, there

A

skiing.

amount

is

wide

of

it

no

get there or what you're something for your level of

good

variety of terrain, a

high

intermediate and ad-

vanced, awaits you on the side of this giant, and with the expansion that's already in blueprint form, Mt. Shasta Ski Park looks like the ski resort of the future.

Accommodations

)

start at $26.

Food

French

some

of the best

Texas, and a canneloni, dinners:

fries this side of Paris,

number

of

Italian

ravioli; sandwiches around $4, and dinners range from $5.50-7. Locals swear by the family-style dinners and the homemade ravioli at Mike and Tony's (916/9264792), 501 S. Mt. Shasta

lasagna, spaghetti, and

run

Deals and Discounts Mt. Shasta Ski Park offers a Rrst-timer's

package (equipment, lessons, and a lift ticket) for $24. Senior citizens 62 and older ski for $1 2; kids eight and younger ski free. Kids

For breakfast in Mt. Shasta City, try

die's

delicious sandwiches, with

Boulevard.

The Cedar Lodge Motel (916/235-2836) in Dunsmuir has doubles starting at about $20. In Mt. Shasta City, the Mountain Air Lodge and Ski House (91 6/926-341 1 has a Jacuzzi, a recreation room, and a free community kitchen; doubles

For dinner, try Michael's (916/926-5288) at 313 N. Mt. Shasta Boulevard. They serve

Cafe (916/9264047)

at

610

Wen-

S.

Mt.

Shasta Boulevard for a hearty home-style meal; or Marilyn's (916/926-9918) at 1136 S. Mt. Shasta Boulevard, where you can still

The Mt. Eddy Bagel Bakery and Cafe (916/926-2800), 105 E. Alma, is also excellent, serving a variety of coffees and baked goods.

The

Ski Park's

Powder Pups program

is

for

children three to six years old and includes

day

is

$24; half day, either morning or afternoon,

is

lessons, rentals,

and supervision.

Full

$15.

get a ten-cent cup of coffee!

Disabled Skiers Disabled

skiers

are

encouraged

Shasta Ski Park, and the

at

triple chairs

Mt.

make

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA loading convenient for sit-skiers. For current policy information, call the

main

office.

Of Special Interest

Rom

until modern spawned more than

the days of the Indians

times, Mt. Shasta has

Cross Country Mt. Shasta boasts

13

share of legends, myths, and tales that its place and function in the universe. One legend has it that when the continent of Lemuria (the Pacific version its

some

of the finest cross-

country and telemark skiing in the state. The Sierra Club has a hut (Horse Camp, built in 1929) which serves as a base camp year round for hikers and skiers heading for the summit. Given good conditions and weather, the summit is about an eight-hour hike

from Horse Camp. For more information, call 5th Season Sports at 916/926-2776; both Leif and Craig there are helpful, encouraging, and responsible in their advice. The Rfth Season offers touring clinics, avalanche seminars, and races. The number of their 24-hour climbing report is 916/926-5555. Mt. Shasta Ski Park also offers telemark lessons.

MT.

SHASTA

SKI

purport to explain

of Atlantis, also

Lemurians

known as Mu)

fled to the highest

area (Mt. Shasta) and

now

mountain

cities.

in

elaborate

sunk, the

peak

in

the

inhabit the inner

The Lemurians

are reportedly seen from time to time;

some

say you can detect them by the third eye in the middles of their foreheads; others claim that when Leumrians shop, they buy inordinate

amounts

of salt

and pay with gold

nuggets.

Curious visitors can get an excellent introduction to these and many other legends

PARK AT A GLANCE

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

14 at

Golden Bough Books, 219 N. Mt. Shasta

Boulevard, Mt. Shasta City. They take cash,

check, MasterCard, and Visa. gold nuggets for salt.

Save your

Getting There Take Interstate 5 to the junction at 89; then take 89E to the access road to Mt. Shasta Ski Park; the turn-off

is

well-marked.

LASSEN PARK SKI AREA "Go Ski a Volcano" urge the brochures, bumper stickers, and sweatshirts. "Ski the only active volcano

Although Mt. Lassen

in

the United States."

is

indeed "active" — its

begun on May 30, 1914, and lasting off and on for the next seven years — rangers and park officials last

series

of eruptions having

assure that your chances of getting Mt.

Helened

while

Nonetheless,

skiing

evidence

are of

rather

St.

In

fact,

daily at 1 :30 p.m. from the lodge at the ski resort to the Sulphur Works up on the side of the mountain. And it's not

uncommon, even as you're skiing, to get an occasional whiff of sulphur yourself, reminding

the

you that Lassen Peak (at 1 0,457 feet) is manifestation of an exceedingly rare

phenomenon.

geological

remote.

volcanism

still

abounds throughout the area — from the many hot springs and fumaroles in the park to the lava-strewn flanks of Highway 36 to the west.

snowshoe walks

rangers lead two-hour

The

first ski

lift,

a rope tow,

was

installed

on

1935, and the area has been expanded, minimally, twice since then: first in 1966, when the lodge was built and the

Mt. Lassen

rope tow

in

was

Mt. Lassen erupting in May, 1914

replaced with a poma, and

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA then

in

1

and a

982,

when

the

chair,

triple

a

poma was torn down novice poma,

and

another rope were installed. Today, Lassen offers, along with Mt. Shasta Ski Park, the only chair lift-serviced skiing in the northern

number

quarter of the state. Although the

runs at Lassen

isn't great,

does

it

the range of degrees of difficulty.

truly

bump

short

run on the face

of

span

In fact,

the

work the

will

knees and nerves of any advanced skier in the area, and there are even a few places to sneak off the trails for some decent tree skiing. Lassen offers a little skiing in a big way.

And

that's part of

top,

go their separate ways at the and meet again at the bottom for chair,

another ride/run. Consequently, there's more than the usual marginal amount of social mingling among the levels of skiers,

making

for a novel lack of pretension: you'll

likely

see

Levi's-clad

skinny

downhillers,

and

and toddlers,

skiers,

ski pants-clad, senior citizens

all

working

run together. There even "pairing (tripling)

their

way down

seems

stead,

And except on

Shasta Ski Park, and

up" on the

chair.

You

just

towns

for

easy afternoon

and Lassen's half-day

tickets are

therefore very popular. Further, the fact that

Lassen is the only ski resort in the area with "raceable" slopes accounts for the large number of skiers working out there. It's not uncommon to see the Chico State race team running gates, as well as young racers from many of the nearby high schools, to all of which Lassen is the "home field" and a hub of race-team rivalry. Indeed, Lassen

lift

its

runs, parking

lot,

lines

Accommodations )

Forest also rents cross-country ski equip-

ment. The Mineral Lodge (916/595-4422), just nine miles from the ski area, has doubles for $34 (30% off Sunday through Thursday).

Food By no stretch of the imagination Lassen a destination

is

an excellent

ski area at

work on your technique, no matter your level. According to one instructor, the to

reason there's such a high percentage of good skiers at Lassen is that the

very

resort's too small to

"cruise" or explore;

is

Mt.

Although a small cafeteria in the base lodge serves some hot food and sandwiches, you're better advised to pack a lunch and eat at your car,

Just an hour and a half from Chico, Red Bluff, and Redding, Lassen is close enough

which

and

The Black Forest Lodge (91 6/258-2941 on Highway 36 between Chester and Lassen Park has doubles starting at $24. The Black

On

jaunts,

you won't

remain relatively uncrowded. You'll seldom have to park more than a hundred feet from the ticket booths, which makes it very easy to return to your car for a picnic lunch (not to mention that bottle of Chardonnay stashed in the snow). cafeteria,

hill.

to these valley

rare occasions,

run into throngs of other skiers at Lassen, especially with the opening last year of Mt.

a

to be less

ease up to the loading position and ride with whomever happens to have eased up beside you; by the end of the day you feel as though you've met most of the other skiers

on the

choose to work on technique inalways able to find terrain to challenge them. thus, skiers

what's so attractive about

Lassen. Expert and beginner alike ride the

same

15

ski resort.

as a large number of the other skiers do. the way home, though, after a long day's

skiing,

several

excellent

places

to

eat

The

Black Forest Lodge (916/258-2941), on Highway 36 ten miles west of Chester, serves excellent German and American dinners. Especially good are beckon.

the wiener schnitzel, the frikadellen, and the

desserts — co-owner and chef Hilda Schliecher marinates chocolate and strawberry tortes in brandy and vodka for days before serving them. Dinners run $6-1 2. Almost next door to the Black Forest Lodge is the St. Bernard Lodge (91 6/258-3382), a cozy little inn with a dining room, bar, and several woodstoves and fireplaces to warm your toes. While thawing out, try the Polish sausage sandwich ($3.50) or the Ortega

burger ($3.95), both huge,

and served on fresh homebaked honeywheat buns— guaranteed to satisfy.

delicious,

16

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

LASSEN PARK SKI AREA

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA destinations.

Along the way they discuss in winter and the

the ecology of Lassen Park

mountain's geologic history. Snowshoes are provided free; wear heavy shoes. Meet the ranger outside the Lassen Chalet at 1:30 p.m. Wilderness Survival Programs are by reservation only, and for some of them, your group must be ten or more. Call Park Headquarters (916/595-4444) for more

17

Getting There Take Highway 36 from Red Bluff; turn left just past Mineral and Park Headquarters into the park entrance. Or take Highway 32 from Chico to the junction of Highway 36; turn left and watch for the park entrance. It is well marked. Note: If the roads are wet or icy. Highway 36 from Red Bluff is the safer and quicker route.

information.

STOVER MOUNTAIN Stover Mountain is a very small two-lift ski hill in Lassen National Forest just outside Chester, with a stunning view of Lake

Almanor below. Open weekends and holidays only and with no facilities besides a small warming hut. Stover is strictly a local day-use area. A short rope tow and a poma lift about 300 yards long complete the

Accommodations The Lassen Mineral Lodge (916/59&4422) in nearby Mineral has rooms starting at about $38/double. There's a saloon, general

store,

gift

country Forest

shop, and downhill and cross-

rentals.

Doubles

at

the

Black

Lodge on Highway 36 between

Lassen and Chester

start at

about $24.

facilities.

But, just as Maria Muldaur sang, "It ain't the meat, it's the motion," it's not the size, it's the mountain. With 60% of its terrain rated advanced. Stover is surprisingly steep for such a small area, and with no grooming facilities the bumps can get respectably big. Some of the better skiers at Lassen and on the Chester High School race team cut their teeth at Stover Mountain.

Food You'd be hard pressed to find anyone in the north state who wouldn't go out of his way for a meal at the Black Forest Lodge (91 6/258-2941 ), ten miles west of Chester on

Highway

36.

Though

this

restaurant serves breakfast

family-run

and lunch,

it's

which they're famous: German specialties, such as frikadellen and

their dinners for

looking out at Lake

Almanor from Stover Mountain

18

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

CA

wiener schnitzel and homemade pies and cheesecakes for dessert.

tion, write

Cross Country

Getting There Take Highway 99 to Chico, and then take Highway 32 ten miles east. From Red Bluff, take highway 36 to the junction with 89. The county road to Stover Mountain is about five miles north of Highway 36 at the junction of 36 and 89.

Stover Mountain is near some of the finest and most picturesque cross-country skiing the state. Lassen Volcanic National Park is about 20 miles northwest on Highway 36 (see "Cross Country" at in

"Lassen Park Ski Area"). For more informa-

call

Box 100, Mineral,

96063; or

916/595^1444.

STOVER MOUNTAIN AT A GLANCE

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

19

COPPERVALE Coppervale is a ski area so small and undeveloped that a sign on the warming hut reads, "Please Pay Lift Operator," making you feel as though you're in some western frontier town in which the sheriff, the justice of the peace, the coroner, snd the mayor are Located in Lassen National all one man. Forest, Coppervale is used primarily by P.E. classes at Lassen Community College in Susanville, 14 miles to the east, and is

Food There are no vale;

facilities for

food

at

Copper-

brownbagging and picnicking are the

ways to go. In Susanville, Mi Casita (916/257-9419) serves a variety of Mexican

only

specialties, including

chimichangas, tortas,

and taquitos. The margaritas,

alas, are of

wine. Dinners run $5-8. You can also get food to go. Aardvark Pizza (916/257-7017)

makes

fresh white

and whole wheat dough

Pizzas range from $4.75 for a small

open weekends and Tuesdays and Thurs-

daily.

days only.

cheese to $15.05

for a large combination.

Like the other small areas in the Chester-

— Lassen and StoMountain — Coppervale is a relatively steep little hill, serviced by two surface lifts, Susanville area, though

ver

with a

40%

full

of

its

ignated as advanced.

Aspen

a trip from

way noon

terrain officially desAll

in

all,

not worth

or St. Moritz but a great

to get the family together for an afterin

the

woods and

a

day on the slopes.

has

in Susanmodern, fully-equipped doubles

starting at $16.

Rooms

at the Trailside

Best Western Motel (916/257-4123) about $31 /double.

Cross Country Coppervale is near some of the finest cross country skiing in the state. Lassen Ski Touring in Lassen National Park has miles of trails and back country tours. For more information, write 2150 North Main Street #7, Red Bluff, CA 96080; or call, 916/529-1512.

Accommodations The Cozy Motel (916/257-2319) ville

Deals and Discounts Children under 12 ski free.

Inn

start at

Getting There From Red Bluff, take Highway 36 approximately 20 miles past Chester. From Susanville, go 14 miles east on 36.

This sign at Coppervale

says

it all.

20

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

COPPERVALE AT A GLANCE

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

PLUMAS-EUREKA It's

a rare California skier that's heard of this

little

ski area

tucked away

the outback of

in

Plumas County near the West Fork of the Feather

Wednesdays is

a

Open

River.

small,

weekends

only, Plumas-Eureka Ski three-surface-lift

and Bowl

day-use area

patronized primarily by skiers from nearby Quincy, Portola, and Johnsville, although

have been trying to promote both

locals

cross-country and downhill skiing

— with

for years

not a whole

lot

in

the area

of success.

But 125 years ago, it was a rare California who hadn't heard of the skiing in the

skier

Plumas-Eureka area.

That was,

after

all,

when

the

first ski

races

the Western Hemisphere were held

in

— right

here at Johnsville, California. The year was 1860, and the racers were miners from sur-

rounding towns. Within a couple of years, many of the mining towns in the area had established their own "ski clubs," and the annual races in Johnsville and the attendant excitement were a manifestation of the "ski mania" that was sweeping the California mountains. On skis 12 feet long, and with

up to eight feet, these Wide World of Sports prototypes battled it out on the slopes for champagne dinners and $100 single poles of

purses

board

(in fact,

ski

boots

"The agony

it

was

a cold miner in card-

who first

uttered the phrase,

of the feet").

Today, Johnsville is a crumbling and partly boarded-up town with little to speak for it except the gorgeous Feather River, the Johnsville Hotel (closed

park and fascinating

in winter),

a state

museum commemorat-

ing the area's mining history, the Plumas-

Eureka Ski Bowl, and (punks take note) the Mohawk Cemetery. The Ski Bowl, operated by the Plumas Ski Club, is up a hill at the end of a winding and narrow road about a mile from town. There's a funky old day lodge/warming hut, with a deck looking up at the lifts and runs, where you can get a

bowl of $.50.

chili for

$1

and a bowl of soup

The restrooms

for

are rather primitive,

SKI

21

BOWL

with outhouses scattered behind the lodge, although there is the comparatively new

"Donald K. Penland Memorial Facilities," on which a plaque in Mr. Penland's honor describes him as the "Head of the Movement."

You can

see, then, that although the skiing Plumas-Eureka is a far cry from that at even the smaller Tahoe resorts, such as Homewood and Donner Ski Ranch, a trip there is still very worth your while. Go for the history and the chance to get away from the jet set (indeed, more to mingle instead with the Conestoga set), but bring your skis along anyway: where else can you ski beside the ghosts of our true founding at

fathers?

Accommodations The Sierra Sky Lodge (916/836-2344) on Highway 70 ten minutes west of Graeagle is the closest year-round lodging to Johnsville.

A room

with two double beds costs $25.

Ranchito

the

Quincy,

Motel

In

(916/

E. Main Street, has doubles rooms with kitchenettes are $40.

283-2265), 2020 for $32;

Food Facilities

Plumas-Eureka

at

are

minimal

soup and chili in the warming hut). In nearby Quincy, The Loft (916/283-0126) serves excellent lunches and dinners. Sandwiches are $3.50 (half for (other than the

$2.25).

The hot pastrami

They

also

serve

a

is

good. crepes

particularly

variety

of

($3.25-4.95), stuffed baked potatoes ($2.95), and a wide selection of imported beers. For a fancier dinner, the Mt. Tomba Inn (916/836-2359) in Cromberg, on Highway 70 just north of Johnsville, serves steak and

seafood family

Dinners run $4.50 for

style.

the soup and salad to $17 for steak and prawns (minimum charge of $2.50 per per-

son).The Blairsden just off

popular in

House

Highway 70

among

an elegantly

in

(916/836-1300,

Blairsden)

rustic setting.

A

is

also

good eats bit more ex-

locals looking for

22

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

PLUMAS-EUREKA

SKI

BOWL

DISTRICT

II:

LAKE TAHOE Ski Resorts

Soda Springs Sugar Bowl Donner Ski Ranch Boreal

Tahoe Donner Most books about Lake Tahoe, tions

Northstar-at-Tahoe

Squaw Alpine

Meadows

Tahoe

Ski

Sierra Ski

Kirkwood

or with sec-

Bowl

Heavenly Valley Echo Summit Ski Area

Homewood

Mark Twain's Roughing It: how the air there "must be the air the angels breathe," and that it must be "the finest view the whole earth affords." However, it's been over a hundred years since Twain was at Tahoe, and his words are a bit dated. Oh, there are still fine views, and the air's comparatively clean, but doubt many angels have been there recently, what with all the fools who have.

USA

Granlibakken

on Lake Tahoe, manage to quote from

I

Valley

Ranch

In Twain's time. Lake Tahoe was a littleknown, remote mountain lake with a handful of miners' camps scattered around it. To-

day, it's a full-blown destination-resort so threatened with overdevelopment that local government has established building moratoriums in hopes of halting, or at least curb-

rampant spoilage of the lake and surrounding forests. But even as a hundredyear victim of plundering and pillaging. Lake ing, the

Tahoe still affords a picture so fair that the "whole earth" would have a difficult time finding a fitting

rival.

24

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

^ \

I-

o I(0 2

s

il

LAKE TAHOE AREA

25

History

The first white man to see — or to record seeing—Lake Tahoe was John C. Fremont. His 1844 reads: ". ascended today the highest peak to the right* from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at our feet about fifteen miles in length, and so nearly surrounded by mountains that we could not discover an outlet." journal of 14 Feb.

Fremont named

.

.1

discovery Lake BonBonpland, a scientist who accompanied Alexander von Humboldt, one of Fremont's pathfinder colleagues. By 1853, though, the name had been changed to Lake Bigler, after John Bigler, third governor of California, and was so depicted on the official map of the new pland, after

his

Amade

state. However, by 1861, the consensus of the people, at least those in capacities official enough to affect the naming of geographic regions, was that John Bigler had

a young Mark Twain

not distinguished himself enough as governor to warrant such an honor. A number of

James' book, attributed therein to Mrs. W.

new names were proposed — among them

W.

Washington, Lincoln — president at the time — and Fremont. But in the end, the name chosen was Tahoe, a Washoe Indian word meaning "big water" or "high water." According to George Wharton James, who in 1915 wrote the definitive guide to Tahoe,

Price of Fallen Leaf Lodge).

"Long, long ago, before the white man came to Nevada, there lived in the meadow over beyond Glenbrook a good Indian. But though he was good, he was much annoyed by the Evil Spirit, who constantly interfered with all he tried to do. Finally, he determined that he must move away and get over into

the correct pronunciation of "Tahoe" is not as heard today. Rather, it is pronounced "as if it were one syllable, Tao,' like a Chinese

to escape, the Evil

name." However,

ready to

1957, disputes

E.

B.

Scott, writing

in

claiming that "Ta-ho" has been the accepted pronunciation since 1896, when the steamer Tahoe was first launched, before which "Tay-ho" was this,

generally

considered correct. Scott also notes that although the word did come to us from the Washoes, it may have come to

them from the Spanish.

It

is

writes, that Spanish explorers

likely,

Scott

preceded

Fre-

mont and used the word "tajo," defined as both "chasm" and "steep cliff area," to describe the Lake Tahoe Basin and that the Washoes picked up on it. Indian

legends

account

Tahoe's formation. One of the more ing

is

this

Washoe

•Thought now

tale (reprinted to

for

intrigu-

here from

have been Stevens Peak

trip

him

in

"In his trouble the aid, giving

him a

Good

leafy

Spirit

came

to his

branch which had cer-

magic

qualities. He was to start on his he saw the Evil One coming he was to drop a bit of the branch and water would immediately spring up. The Evil One could not cross water, and thus, being delayed by going around, would give the Indian time to escape.

tain

journey.

If

"The Indian made his way well along to where the Tallac Hotel now is (South Shore), when, looking back, he saw the Evil One off in

Numerous

when he tried One was aways there one way or another.

the valleys of California. But

the

distance

approaching

strides that his heart fear. In it

was

with

such

with great his terror, he tried to pluck a leaf, but

snapped

off

filled

and he dropped almost

his

26

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

whole branch. To his delight and relief, the waters began to rise and soon "Tahoe" — Big Water — lay between him and his enemy. "Free-heartedly, he hurried

on

way up

his

the canyon, but

when he reached

where the head

of Fallen Leaf Lake

turned to reassure himself. Evil

the spot

A way

One was advancing. A new

FACTS ABOUT LAKE TAHOE

lies,

Surface Area: 193 square miles

he

Elevation: 6,320 feet

off the

Maximum

terror filled

hand there remained of his magic branch only one little twig with a single leaf on it. his soul. In his

Width: 12 miles Distance Around: 72 miles Average Surface Temperature (summer), 68 degrees; at 750 feet, 40 degrees Average Snowfall: 300 inches

"Plucking the leaf, he threw it down and watched it fall waveringly through the air. As it touched the earth, the waters again began to rise and "Doolagoga" — Fallen Leaf — sprang into being and on its surface floated the leaf, as

many now

Depth: 1,645 feet

Average Depth: 970 feet Length: 22 miles

float in the fall

of the year.

"Turning, he sped up the ravine, dropping

day. Three-hundred sixty-five days a year.

twig as fear directed him, and in his path, Lily, Grass, and Heather lakes came

Because

bits of his

to guard his way.

"At tain

lords

he was over the crest of the mounand found himself in the long-wished-

last,

home

concentration of ski resorts

to the largest in

the country.

There are 18 ski areas (including Kirkwood, the Donner Pass area, and those on the Nevada side of the lake) in and around Tahoe — oi^er 750 lifts. There're also thousands of beds to be let in the area — from those at the fancy high-rise casinos at South Shore to the dorm-style bunks at Donner Ski Ranch, from exclusive waterfront condominiums to rustic one-room cabins

dating

to

the

is in

Nevada, the

and

slick

singles,

blue-haired ladies

feverishly trying to double their social securi-

and downnewlyweds holding hands machine handles, and proud sugar

ty checks, down-on-their-luckers

and is

Lake Tahoe

out-of-the-hillers,

for valley of California."

Today, Lake Tahoe

half of

region attracts hordes of gamblers: casino

early

part

of

the

slot

daddies with their flighty sugar babes. Some have come on Greyhound "Gamblers' Specials" for one-day flings, some are here for two-week vacations, some have spent their lives

And

here.

who come, but who,

there are also thousands

not to gamble, but to ski or

fish,

"as long as we're here," find

themselves in front of slot machines, around crap and blackjack tables, and sitting in Keno dens, downing free watery cocktails and watching the numbered ping pong balls flutter while they wait for the magic com-

century.

bination that will bring

But the area is also a playground, all year round. Though snow skiers descend on Tahoe in winter, the rest of the year the area haven for all types of outdoor enis a thusiasts: hikers, waterskiers, fishermen, sailboarders, swimmers, sunbathers, bicyclists, and sightseers. And indoor enthusiasts: gamblers. Twenty-four hours a

happiness. Unfortunately, the number that win is small, and the neon, the shallow glamour, the loud, smoky rooms, the glazed eyes of the players and the sad eyes of the losers heading home is anything but inspiring — especially compared to the mountain air and the majesty of the Sierras eternal

just outside.

them fortune and

LAKE TAHOE AREA

27

DONNER PASS AREA Four

ski

mit, the

areas are clustered on Donner Sumpass over the Sierra Nevadas on In-

Soda Springs, Sugar Bowl, Donner Ski Ranch, and Boreal. Among them,

books today

for thier innovative definition of

the term "pot luck."

terstate 80:

they offer a

wide variety of skiing, and the closest and most accessible skiing to the San Francisco Bay Area. lot

of skiing, a

Today, Interstate 80 -a wide, well-designed four-laner

severe

out from Springfield, Illinois, in April 1846, the original Donner Party split up at Fort

where George Donner led a splinter group of 87 on a more southerly route that was supposed to cut 350-400 miles off the trip. They figured the short cut would give them a better chance of making Bridger, Utah, from

winter

storm

major east-west roads in the area to be cleared of snow). To your right, as you drop east down the pass toward Truckee, are the cliff-hugging Southern Pacific artery,

Donner Summit was named for the Donner Party, an unlucky band of California-bound settlers who found themselves trapped on the pass in the winter of 184&47. Having set

-takes the traveler quickly and Donner Pass, even shortly after a

safely over

it's

railroad

Lake.

one

and

of the

far

(a

first

below

it

A monument to the

deep blue Donner Donner Party now

stands at the bottom of the pass at the Donner Pass exit, and a museum there chronicles the history of the region and the

famous

party. During the winter, you can cross-country ski to the museum, where racks are provided for your skis.

it over the pass before winter rolled in. It might have, had they been more familiar

with the route, but the "short cut" ended up

them even longer, and an October storm caught them northwest of Lake Tahoe taking

near where 1-80 now passes. And there they stayed, trapped, holed up in snow caves and

makeshift tents, their numbers dwindling with the

killing cold.

Soon,

their already-low

were exhausted, and their cattle had either been slaughtered and eaten or had wandered off and died. Besides which, the gang had grown exceedingly bored with rations

Yahtzee.

Meanwhile, members of the original party had arrived in Sacramento. Not finding their friends and correctly suspecting them stuck on the pass, they sent relief. Unfortunately,

snow

were so deep that even when arrived they could do little to move the starving and weakened would-be drifts

relief parties

pioneers out of the mountains.

By ful

47 of the group had died; a handhad made the trek out alone or in small

spring,

groups. The few who stayed managed to survive only by eating the flesh of their fallen compatriots and are remembered in history

Donner Party Monument at Truckee's Donner Memorial Musuem

28

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Accommodations There are two lodges with dormitory-style accommodations on Donner Summit. The Ski Inn Lodge (916/426-3079) has beds for $10.80 ($14.05 for a breakfast and dinner), as well as private rooms ($37.80/double). American Youth Hostel members get beds in

the

group

dorm rooms

for $7.75.

rates; call for

Ski Inn

is

more

There are also

information.

The

located about 50 yards below the

Sugar Bowl parking lot. The Donner Spitz Hutte (916/426-9108), located just past Donner Ski Ranch on Old Highway 40, also has beds in dorm rooms. A "Bunk and Breakfast" is $12 ($14 Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays). Private rooms are $40. You can get a good, hearty family-style dinner at the Spitz Hutte for $7.

Summit Lodge

Rooms

Donner

(916/426-3638) run about

The

$40/double.

at the

Norden

House

a recently refurbished bed and breakfast above the old post office in Norden; doubles run $39-62. See also "Ac-

(916/426-3326)

is

would be incomplete without mention of Royal Gorge, one of the largest and most developed cross-country ski areas in the state. There are 47 miles of trails, three

two

warming

huts,

cafe,

restaurant

a

rental shops, a bar, a

with

French

country

and their Wilderness Lodge, to which you can ski or take a sleigh ride. For more information, write Royal Gorge Crosscountry Ski Resort, Box 178, Soda Springs, cuisine,

CA

95728; or

call

916/426-3871.

Of Special Interest The Auburn Ski Club Western American Skisport

Museum

parking

Boreal

(916/426-3313),

lot,

in

the

commemorates the

both regionally and history of skiing, worldwide. There's a fascinating display of the last 150 years' development of skis, boots, bindings, and even poles, from cross-

country

to

racing

Snowshoe Thompson,

gear.

Read

the skier

who

about carried

City.

the United States mail over the Sierras from 1856-76, and view his 12-foot skis. Don't

Tinker's Station (916/426-3410), just off the freeway in Soda Springs, serves excel-

miss the painting of two of history's first recorded skiers (soldiers in the Norwegian Civil War of 1206, carrying the infant King Hanok Hanoksson to safety) and the photos

commodations"

in

Truckee and Tahoe

Food

lent lunches, dinners

($3.95)

are

and snacks. The nachos good — tomatoes,

especially

beans, and lots of cheese. Also exceptional are the cheeseburgers ($3.95): they don't

throw a slice of processed cheese on a preformed hamburger patty; they mount the half-pound burger with about a half cup of grated American and jack. They also have a good selection of imported beers and draught beer by the pitcher. Also good for a post-skiing snack or meal is the Soda Springs Cafe (916/426-9924) located right

just

next to the Soda Springs Post Office. A quarter-pound cheeseburger will run you $3,

and there are regular specials— meatloaf sandwiches and fries, for example— also around $3. You can also get breakfast until 11 a.m.; two eggs are $2.25, you can "build your own omelette" for $3.95, and huevos rancheros are $4. See also "Food" in Truckee and Tahoe City.

of the United States Ski Association's Hall

Fame, among them broadcaster Thomas and ski film-maker Warren of

Miller,

as well as dozens of other well-known and not-so-well-known contributors to the ski industry. The complete story of the Winter

Olympics at Squaw Valley is recounted in and photographs, and an extensive library and film-viewing room with over two dozen films cover everything from the history of skiing to skiing technique and care of equipment. Admission to the museum (open every day but Monday) is free. To find

text

it

look for the huge statue of in the Boreal parking

Thompson The

Snowshoe lot.

Alpine Skills Institute (916/426-9108),

located at the Spitz Hutte, offers a variety in mountaineering and back-country There are slide shows and movies every Saturday night. For more information, write Box 8, Norden, CA 95724.

courses skiing.

Cross Country

A new

Any

travelers

discussion of the Donner Pass area

Lowell

and other from one end of the summit to the

shuttle service runs skiers

LAKE TAHOE AREA other, so

and

it's

easy to get

between lodges

ski resorts.

Getting There Donner Pass is on Interstate 80 approx-

imately 90 miles east of Sacramento and 40 miles west of Reno. Take the Norden/Soda

Springs exit to Sugar Bowl, Donner Ski Ranch, and Soda Springs ski areas; take the Castle Peak exit to Boreal.

SODA SPRINGS Soda Springs

is

the only ski area

in

the state

29

AREA

SKI

426-3638),

1-80

off

just

at

the

Norden/

you can "rent." Although open to the public Fridays and weekends, the rest of the week it's reserved for use by large groups and available by advance reservation only. You can rent for the day one, two, or all three chairs. The runs are mainly open and treeless, providing an excellent opportunity

Soda Springs exit. Rooms run about $40/double. The Ski Inn Lodge (916/426-3079) just up old Highway 40 from Soda Springs has dormitory-style accommodations starting at about $11 /night. See also "Accommodations" at Donner Pass, Truckee, and Tahoe City.

style,

beginners to get a taste of Europeanabove-timberline skiing and for cautious moms and dads to keep tabs on

Food The small

their too-often airborne heirs.

standard cafeteria

for

Of the three chairlifts. Numbers 1 and 2 service the lower two-thirds of the mountain and cater to beginners and low intermediates, while Number 3 rises 650 feet to the top of the mountain, opening up a couple of runs that present challenges — albeit short ones — to high intermediates and advanced skiers. It's not uncommon to see racers working out on this upper third of the mountain.

cafeteria at

many

other

small

beginner-

and

family-oriented ski resorts. Soda, situated

atop Donner Pass, offers stunning vistas of the surrounding area. From a number of the runs you can see the tops of Boreal, Donner

Ranch, and Christmas Tree Chair at Sugar Bowl. And from the top of Soda's Chair 3, you can see the Sierras rolling down Ski

to foothills in the west. All

in

resort

all.

brown-bag

it here, partly because the so accessible; you'll never have to walk more than 50 yards or so to your car. See also "Food" at Donner Pass,

skiers

parking

lot

is

Truckee, and Tahoe City.

Deals and Discounts Soda Springs offers discounts

to kids under 60 and over and, on Fridays, to

especially

for

for

families

learning

college students. Ski

two-for-one

lift

Card International:

tickets.

For

information

about renting all or part of Soda on a Monday through Thursday, write to the main business office: Boreal/Soda Springs Ski Areas, Box 39, Truckee, CA 95734; or call 916/426-3666.

Kids

Soda's a comfortable

ideal

Soda Springs serves The deck outside is

an ideal place to watch skiers of all levels, as it looks up on the entire mountain. Most

12, seniors

Unlike

fare.

and

families.

little

ski

learners, If

you've

been skiing the big and crowded ones and are ready for a break, try Soda.

Accommodations A handful of inexpensive rooms can be found near Soda Springs, including those at the Donner Summit Lodge (916/

The Hobbit designed to twelve.

Ski

Company

for skiers of

The cost

is

at

Soda Springs

all abilities,

is

ages three

$35 and includes a lift and equipment

ticket, all-day lesson, lunch, rental.

Disabled Skiers Last season ski races in

Soda hosted one of the only sitTahoe area. Sit-skiers are not

the

required to be tethered.

30

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Getting There Take Interstate 80 either west from Reno or east from Sacramento to Donner Summit; then take the Norden/Soda Springs exit and

follow old turn right

Highway 40 about a half mile and to the Soda Springs parking

down

lot.

SODA SPRINGS AT A GLANCE

"

LAKE TAHOE AREA

31

SUGAR BOWL What's unique about Sugar Bowl is apparent long before you've even put your skis on: you must ride a gondola (or access chair) more than half a mile from the parking lot and ticket booth to the lodge and bases of the lifts and runs. You ride out across a sprawling mountain meadow and over the Southern Pacific tracks until the Sugar Bowl Lodge appears through the trees. By the time you arrive, it feels as though you've left behind, more so than at most resorts, the conveniences — cars, highways, and snow plows— of modern mountain transportation. In fact, at Sugar Bowl, it's quite easy to imagine yourself

in

some Tyrolean

village long

before travel by car to your chalet

was even

there

Sugar Bowl

was

for old

was

to this lodge in the 1940s and '50s San Francisco's hoity-toity would come to vacation and rub elbows. Southern Pacific even had a "ski express" at the time that deposited skiers at Norden for their ride on the mechanical sleigh. It

that

Today, Sugar Bowl offers some of the best

and many San Francisco Bay Area skiers consider it their favorite. With 50% of its runs designated advanced, Sugar Bowl has more than its share of skiing in California,

challenging

an option.

When

bar, cafeteria, and rental shop, and why it has an exclusive dining room for guests only— although it's now somewhat relaxed from the stuffy days of suits and ties only. its

just

one

first lift:

Walt himself, an

opened

in

Mt. Disney,

1939,

named

original stockholder.

The only way for skiers to get to the Sugar Bowl lodge was by a snow tractor-trailer rig that ran twice daily from the Norden railroad station two miles down the road. Because it was such an effort to get there, no one came to ski for just the day,

which

is

why Sugar

Bowl's base lodge is one of the few in the country with a second story of rooms atop

skiing

the

for

better

skiers.

Some of the chutes and bump runs off Lincoln Two and Mt. Disney are particularly attractive to those in search of steep

thrills. In

addition, intermediates will find a fine variety of skiing off Christmas Tree

and Crow's on

Nest, while beginners can cut their teeth

Meadow, Nob

Hill,

and some of the gentler

runs off Christmas Tree.

Although Sugar Bowl puts a

number tends

of tickets to

get

it

sells,

crowded,

ceiling

on the

the place

still

especially

on

"Show 'em how it's done, Laura.

32

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

SUGAR BOWL (1000 ACRES)

n&i *-i.4*

\

-m

V

..^

,^^?a^^ nH

'^>

H^ weekends: Sugar Bowl

is

the closest, most

accessible mid-sized ski resort to the San

Francisco Bay Area— and San Francisco Bay Areans know where the good skiing is. Sugar Bowl regulars know that the lift lines on Mt. Disney and Crow's Nest tend to be a bit shorter on those days when Christmas Tree and Lincoln seem virtually impacted.

Accommodations At the Sugar Bowl Lodge (916/426-3651), you can either pay by the night or go with five-day ski plans. Prices range from about $80/night for a

room

for

two

(skiing not in-

clusive dining

room

(see below).

On sunny

served on the deck outside the lodge. On your way home from Sugar Bowl, stop at Tinker's Station, just before getting on the freeway, for a snack or full days, lunch

is

meal.

Deals and Discounts Sugar Bowl offers discounts to senior citizens, large groups (advanced reservations required), AAA members, and military personnel. Consecutive-day passes are $40 for three days, $50 for four days, and $60 for five days.

cluded), to $420 per person for five days skiing

and

five nights lodging. Reservations are

a must, and a deposit of $150 is required for "ski weeks." Breakfasts and dinners are included; children under seven are not

al-

lowed. For more information, write Sugar Bowl, Norden, CA 95724-0005. Just below the Sugar Bowl parking lot is the Ski Inn Lodge (916/426-3079) where you can get dormitory-style

accommodations

starting at

about $10/night. See also "Accommodations" at Donner Pass, Truckee, and Tahoe City.

Food Sugar Bowl has both a cafeteria and an ex-

Of Special Interest The dining room in the Sugar Bowl Lodge, the "Scarlet Pimpernel,"

is

for the exclusive

use of lodge guests and has strict dress requirements. Before 6 p.m., ski attire is allowed; jeans are acceptable provided they are clean

and

neat. After 6,

men and boys

should wear coats and ties, although sweaters and sport shirts are allowed. Women and girls should wear dresses, skirts and blouses, or after-ski wear. Every Tuesday night is Tyrolean Night in the Lodge. There's a huge buffet from 6-7:30 p.m., and beginning at 8 p.m. revelers can get down to the hot sounds of the Tyroleans

LAKE TAHOE AREA and the Sugar Bowl Combo.

A 1

race clinic every Saturday afternoon at

:45

is

ticket.

open

to

anyone with a group lesson

33

Getting There Take Interstate 80 about 90 miles east of Sacramento or 40 miles west of Reno to the Norden/Soda Springs exit. Sugar Bowl is about three miles east on old Highwy 40.

SUGAR BOWL AT A GLANCE

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

34

DONNER Donner Ski Ranch advertises

itself

as "one

West" and inWhether you're

of the oldest ski areas in the vites

you to "rediscover"

it.

a rediscoverer or a first-timer,

looking for the

glitter,

if

you're not

pomp, and circum-

stances attendant to a huge mountain, Donner belongs on your list of must-skis. For

its

size,

the Ranch has an impressive

of terrain: from gently winding, nicely-groomed slopes for beginners to steep and bumpy runs to challenge advanced skiers— or to practice your telemarking, as many at Donner Ski Ranch do. This makes it ideal for the family in which Biff has

variety

\k

,l*iM

SKI

RANCH

long since surpassed

Mom

in

his parallel

technique, or for couples, the gap between

whose

abilities seems as wide as the Pacific times — and sometimes results in not so pacific ski outings and lessons ("Bend your ./#@,^*ing knees, Dear!").

at

One

of the Ranch's

main attractions

is its

as day lodges go, it's indisputably one of the state's best— well, at lodge.

least

In

one

fact,

of the

most honest, marked by

its

very lack of pretension. There's a funky old

wooden bar that looks like was borrowed from a Tombstone saloon,

pool table, a long it

and an open-beam

ceiling

decorated with

DONNER RANCH

SKI

(350

.if

ACRES)

•tU*i,

^^

^!P.^i^i)'J

A'

LAKE TAHOE AREA old saws, carriages,

and assorted tools of

when

The Rainbow

is

right off 1-80

(watch for the

took more

signs west of the Norden

exit).

than a half a day to clear-cut an acre and a

on Old Highway 40 one

half mile

half.

Ranch.

logging days of yore,

it

Accommodations

Food

Donner Ski Ranch is one of the last ski areas around with its own dormitory-style accom-

Donner

Ranch

Ski

and

just

the best places

and include a lift day (mid-week only) for $5. Groups of 20 or more can stay in the dorms mid-week for $28 per person, which includes the bed, a breakfast and dinner, and a lift ticket. Weekends, the same package runs $55 per person. Two nearby lodges also offer packages that include free midweek skiing at Donner Ski Ranch: The Rainbow Tavern Lodge (916/426-3580) Box 8, Soda Springs 95728; and the Ski Inn Lodge (916/426-3079), Box 7, Norden, CA 95724.

old

rooms

start at $40/night

DONNER

SKI

The

a

Ski Inn

is

from the

full-service

is one of the area to stop for a postskiing snack and beer: Tinker's Station, on

cafeteria,

modations. Rates are $10/night (you provide a sleeping bag; $5 extra for linen). Private ticket the next

has

down

35

Highway

nachos

the road

in

40, off 1-80,

($3.95)

where

a plate of

comes dangerously

close to

being a complete meal for two.

Deals and Discounts The Ranch offers a number

of promotional

discounts throughout the season. On opening day, everyone that's everyone,

—

folks— skis free. Gratis. No charge. Also, a week in January they annually designate "Anniversary Days"; prices are rolled back to those of the 1950s. Donner also gives dis-

RANCH AT A GLANCE

36

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

counts to large groups (make reservations at least three days in advance) and children under 12; and seniors 70 and over ski free. On Wednesdays lift tickets are $7.00. Ski

courages telemark skiing on the mountain and has a ski school devoted exclusively to it; lessons are offered seven days a week.

Card International: two-for-one adult mid-

Of Special Interest The alpine ski school offers a "guarantee" to the first-timer: if you haven't learned to

week

lift

tickets.

Kids Donner

has abandoned the traditional children's group lessons, claiming kids' attention spans are too short to work all day in a group. Instead, the Ranch offers private half-hour lessons to children three to six

years old for $10.

Cross Country Donner Ski Ranch

promotes

and

en-

stop and turn by the end of the you get a second lesson free.

first

lesson,

Getting There Take Interstate 80 about 90 miles east of Sacramento (40 west of Reno) to the Norden/Soda Springs exit. Then go about four miles east on old Highway 40. The Ranch will be on your left, just past Sugar Bowl's parking

lot.

BOREAL Greek god of the Boreal, named north wind, is a small beginner- and intermediate-oriented ski resort run by the for Boreas,

same company

down

the road.

manages Soda Springs Shaped like a giant wedge

that

Monterey jack running more or

of

Boreal

is

lying

on

its

side with

less parallel

up

its

lifts

face.

the ideal ski resort for the low

termediate just beginning to feel

some

in-

As one

of the closest— and

the most accessible

— ski

by

all

accounts

areas to the San

Francisco Bay Area, Boreal is an excellent choice for first-time skiers and those who

manage only a few times out a year and who commitment of a weekend in Tahoe. It's also — with its snowaren't into the full-fledged

making

facilities

and

higher

elevation

—

ski

a perfect first-day-of-the-season resort for

most everyone can ski the entire mountain, and after a day at Boreal, egos tend to be a notch or two higher.

hard-cores wanting to "warm up" before Thanksgiving, as well as for junkies unable to wait another week for a fix.

legs: here,

BOREAL

(300

ACRES)

LAKE TAHOE AREA

BOREAL AT A GLANCE

37

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

38

Deals and Discounts

tunate considering that's the opposite order

which one generally makes use of the

Boreal offers discounts to children under

in

12 and to senior citizens.

two.)

Ski Card

ternational: two-for-one mid-week

lift

In-

ticket

Of Special Interest While at Boreal, also be sure to plan on spending at least a half hour at the ski

or free junior ticket.

Kids

The Hobbit Ski Company

is

a

program

museum, for

2 of all abilities. It includes lessons, equipment, instruction, and a lift ticket good for 1 3 hours. The cost is $35. children three to

1

located

Disabled Skiers

Getting There

There is no strict policy regarding tethering. Restrooms are conveniently located on the ground floor,

Go 85

Sit-skiers

are allowed.

but the bar

at the top of the stairs (unfor-

is

in

the parking

lot.

There's

and viewing room, as well as a display of the history of the sport itself. Admission is free. For more details, see "Of Special Interest" at Donner Pass. a film library

miles east of Sacramento on

In-

80 (35 west of Reno) to the Castle Peak exit. The parking lot and base lodge are 1 00 yards from the freeway. terstate

TRUCKEE Named

for a

Paiute Indian, Tro-kay,

who

about

at

$25/night.

The

Star

is

also

immigrant party, Truckee sits at the east end of beautiful Donner Lake, 14 miles northwest of Tahoe City. Once a bustling lumber and railroad town, Truckee is best known today for its

chartered by the American Youth Hostel

proximity to a great variety of year-round

chore.

recreational activity: fishing, hiking, boating,

is

snow skiing, and Much of old-town Truckee has been reconstructed, and Commercial Row, as it's now called, is lined with

rooms start at $40/double. Rooms at the Truckee Super 8 Lodge (916/587-8888), on

an

befriended

rafting,

gift

water as well as

plain

just

early

sightseeing.

shops, restaurants, and clothing stores.

Truckee is an ideal "base camp" for North Lake Tahoe and Donner Pass skiers. Roughly halfway between the two main clusters of ski resorts, it's a little more laid back than

Association, and you can get a bed

in

a

shared room there for $10 ($9 for AYH members) if you bring your own sleeping bag and are willing to be assigned a small

The Gateway Motel

(916/587-3183)

a longtime favorite of passers-through;

Deerfield Drive, start at about $45 for dou-

The Truckee Hotel (916/587-4444), on Commercial Row, has been boarding skiers and travelers for over a hundred years. Breakfast is served to you in your room, and skiers are given a complimentary box lunch on their way to bles; reservations are required.

Rooms

Tahoe area, while at the same time more to do in Truckee than there is at Donner Summit: the '60s pioneer rockers, the Beau Brummels, stopped in at one local bar last season, surprising and impressing

the slopes.

small audiences with their sizzling sets.

Row, where over 50 different kinds of omelettes — from bananas and peach to asparagus and crab— are served up and priced at $4-6. If you're not in the mood for fruit or crustaceans in your eggs, try the Quintana

the

start at $50/double.

there's

Accommodations The

least

expensive rooms

in

Truckee are

at

the Star Hotel (916/587-3007) and at the

Alta

Hotel

(916/587-66§8).

downtown on W.

River Street.

Both

are

Rooms

start

Food For

a

hearty

Squeeze

Roo

pre-skiing

In (916/587-9814)

($3.50),

feast,

try

the

on Commercial

a healthy-sized bacon, eggs,

and pancake breakfast that

will

make even

LAKE TAHOE AREA

Commercial

the most ravenous ready for the slopes. Also

good

for

(916/587-3123), a mercial

Coffee And cozy diner also on Com-

breakfast

Row,

with

is

mother-and-daughter

waitresses, bottomless cups of coffee, and a

from $1.95 for two eggs to $5.95 for steak and eggs. For lunch or dinner, Mike's Galley on Commer-

Row in

39

Truckee

Movie Theaters

in

Truckee

Martis Village Theater, 10015 Palisades Dr., Truckee (916/587-7408). Squaw Valley Theater, Squaw Valley (916/583-3109).

variety of breakfasts ranging

cial

Row

serves delicious fish specials, fish

and chips, and an assortment of burgers and soups. The fish runs $4-6, and the burgers $3-5— some of the best food at the best prices in town. A full bar adjoins Mike's— the Bar of America— and dining there is as casual and as downhome as it sounds. Fastfood junkies can shoot up a McDLT at

Ski Equipment and Rentals Alpenglow Sports, Truckee Bridge and Main, (916 587-2025). Porter's Ski and Sport, in the Lucky/Longs shopping center (916/587-1500). Sun 'n' Snow Sports, 11400 Donner Pass Rd. (916/587-3933).

Zorick Ski Shop, Northwoods ner Lake (916/587-4763).

Blvd.,

Don-

Child Care in Truckee The Pied Piper Preschool (916/587-1282). For more information, call the Nevada County Community Service Council at

Of Special Interest While in Truckee, don't miss the Donner Memorial Museum. Here you can view artifacts from the unfortunate party, including axes, chisels, and a reconstructed wagon (their Trivial Pursuits game has yet to be

916/587-5960.

recovered);

McDonald's.

local

Indian

garb;

"Sierra

40

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Snowshoes" (snowshoes get both a pictorial ings)

and

for horses);

impressive

(in

oil

paint-

and a recorded (push a button at one and you'll hear the story of

of the displays,

the California gold rush) history of the

settl-

ing of California, especially of the Immigrant

museum

mation, off the

call

916/587-3841.

freeway

at the

It's

located just

Donner Lake off-ramp.

Getting There Take Interstate 80 100 miles east of Sacramento or 33 miles west of Reno. Am-

The

trak (800/252-2231 from California or 800/

Donner Memorial State Park, and visitors are encouraged in winter to tour the grounds on cross-country

648-3850 from out of state) stops right on Commercial Row in Truckee, as do both Trailways and Greyhound bus lines. Private planes can land at the TruckeeTahoe Airport (916/587-4119).

Trail,

along which the

museum

skis; ski

is

located

racks are provided at the

entrance. Admission

lies.

in

is

$.50. For

museum

more

infor-

TAHOE DONNER Tahoe Donner termediate

ski

is

a small beginner

and

in-

area catering primarily to the

who own property in the Tahoe DonDevelopment, a sprawling village of gorgeous mountain homes on the hill above Truckee. Tahoe Donner property owners ski people

ner

at half price.

One of the better resorts in the area for firsttime skiers, Tahoe Donner is mostly wide open meadow skiing; there are very few trees

on the slopes. Also, on any given day, likely be as crowded as

more challenging

Accommodations

Tahoe Donner won't

For information

Tahoe area, as most serious and advanced skiers will

call

have hoisted skis ashoulder and

by Truckee and

some

of the other resorts in the

Tahoe Donner from sundeck

lit

out for

But a beginning

terrain.

have himself a ball at Tahoe Donner. There are short, easy runs off Snowbird Chair and the Mighty Mite tow (a lift ticket good for the Mighty Mite only is $5), and a good long trail (Mile Run) winds off Eagle Rock Chair. For intermediate skiers. The Bowl and The Gulley, as well as The Face under Eagle Rock Chair, offer a bit steeper, if not under-the-Gunbarrei demanding, terrain.

skier could

on homes

at

Tahoe Donner,

the Tahoe Donner Property Owners Association (916/587-6028). Lodging in nearin

Tahoe

City ranges from a

— LAKE TAHOE AREA

41

on packages. (Note: groups must

youth hostel to the Victorian-style Truckee Hotel to deluxe Lake Tahoe-side condominiums. See "Accommodations" in Truckee and in Tahoe City.

well as

Food The cafeteria

Tahoe Donner

give 48-hour advance notice to qualify for discounts.)

Kids in

breakfast from 8 to

the

base

lodge

serves

offers special pre-school ski

lessons for children four to

an hour and a

six.

a.m. (2-egg special for $3.25) and lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (burgers run $3-4). There's also a small

for

grocery store on Northwoods Boulevard on the way to the slopes. See also "Food" in

Sit-skiers are not required to

1 1

Truckee and Tahoe

City.

Deals and Discounts First-timer's package at Tahoe Donner (lifts, lesson, equipment) is $26.50 midweek. Kids six and younger ski for free, senior citizens ski for half price mid-week and nonholidays, and groups of 20 or more get discounts on tickets, rental, and lessons, as

The

Cost

is

$12

half.

Disabled Skiers be tethered,

although they should give Tahoe Donner management advance notice. Call 916/567-6046.

Cross Country Tahoe Donner has a nordic program with 50 kilometers of groomed track, as well as telemarking and touring. Equipment and lessons are available. For more information, call

916/587-7005.

——

TAHOE-DONNER AT A GLANCE

42

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

Getting There Take Interstate 80 to the Truckee/Donner Pass Road Exit; then take Donner Pass Road

to the

first light.

Go

north on

Northwoods

Boulevard about four miles, and turn right on Slalom Way.

NORTHSTAR-AT-TAHOE The motto here truth

is

is,

"Northstar has

it

The more

all."

Northstar has too much. This

is

than a ski resort; it's a complex (in fact, if you're the type that likes his skiing pure, then Northstar can give you one). While the winter visitor is enticed with alpine and nordic skiing at their

most affected and com-

summer

fortable,

visitors

are

offered

horseback riding, tennis, a rec room, saunas, indoor and outdoor spas, and a swimming pool (golfers can sign up for the "variety package," which includes discounts on green fees, golf carts, and lessons). The village at Northstar has a "general store," a restaurant, ski shop, and post office, and there are condominiums. Lots of condominiums. You might even say that Northstar-at-

Tahoe

is

a

condominium complex

pens to have a

ski resort, rather

that hap-

than the

around. The access chair you take just to reach the day lodge and the bases of the lifts passes directly through these condominium complexes and over the road that other

way

joying

their

scrambled eggs and orange

juice in their rented breakfast nooks.

Wave a

pole as you go by.

So,

and

you

if

like

like

the comforts of condo living

to see once-pristine areas covered

with Jacuzzis and "pathways," then Northstar is for you. It's sort of the Universal Studios of ski areas — all facade, no soul. The lift shacks look like they were designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and probably cost entire lodge at Donner Ski Ranch; there's even "preferred parking," so the elite don't have to park with the nearly elite. don't know whether Yves St. Laurent and Bill Blass design ski wear, but if they did, this is where you'd see it: there are more beginner skiers decked out in top-ofthe line flash than at any other resort in northern California. There's even a "Wine and Cheese House," where you can join the

more than the

I

and chablis crowd and smile for the house photographer, who for a fee will snap brie

find yourself looking

your picture while his assistants hold reflector boards nearby to ensure your mug gets full exposure to the sometimes uncoop-

dows

erative sun.

winds through them. As you at nice families

ride, then,

you

through condo winand young couples en-

LAKE TAHOE AREA

43

NORTHSTAR-AT-TAHOE (1700

To be

fair,

ACRES)

you can

find

some darn good skinew lift was in-

low intermediates, and the "Easiest" are exnot advocating that

ing at Northstar. In 1983, a

tremely

on the steep backside of the mountain, and a handful of new runs were cut, converting Northstar from a predominantly beginner and intermediate mountain to one with some respectable advanced skiing. Iron Horse and Burn Out are two good advanced runs; check them out when the lines on the

termediates throw themselves off the "Most Difficult" runs, only that they not be as in-

stalled

other

lifts

good

skiing off

get long. Intermediates

will find

Comstock and Rendezvous

while beginners will primarily ski Big Springs (the access chair) and maybe

chairs,

Lookout

and

Aspen

they're

if

feeling

adventurous.

Not only is Northstar the place to flaunt your designer ear muffs, it's also the place to flaunt your stem christy. Since most of Northstar's

lifts

go

directly over intermediate

runs (as opposed to

lifts

Northstar's

runs

all

seem

easier than they're designated.

"More

Difficult" runs

I'm

timidated, proportionally, as they say.

Squaw

would

in-

at,

Valley.

Accommodations You can stay right at Northstar in a variety of condominiums, all of which are available with ski packages. Rates run from about $80-21 0/night, including

lift

tickets.

The

lat-

four-bedroom, two-bath private homes. For more information write Northstar-at-Tahoe, Box 2499, Truckee, CA

ter

are

95734; or call, 916/562-1113 (local), 800/822-5987 (California), 800/824-8516 (continental U.S.). See also "Accommodations" in Truckee and Tahoe City.

cut through trees

and over steeper trails), you don't have to be a "hotdogger" here to ski for the crowds. Finally,

flat.

seem

a step

Many

skiable

of the

by very

Food Shaeffer's

open to

Camp in the

Northstar Village

is

More, better, and less expensive options, though, await those willing to drive a half dozen miles to Truckee after-ski dining.

44

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

or Tahoe City. See "Food" Tahoe City.

in

Truckee and

cludes all-day supervision, a 90-minute lesson, hot lunch, snacks, and equipment. The day care center is also open for kids two

Deals and Discounts

to six

Senior citizens (over 60) ski for $15; children under five ski free with paying adult. Discounts are also offered to groups of 20 or

are

toilet trained.

more. Northstar

Cross Country

and and six-day interchangeable passes, on which you can save $3-5 per ticket and which are also good at Northstar's Nordic Center for equipment rental, trail fees, and a two-hour lesson. sells three-, four-, five-,

six-day passes, as well as five-

Kids Northstar offers the

$40 kids aged lesson,

lift

SKIWEE

program: for

five to eight get a six-hour

ticket,

and

a

hot

lunch.

Northstar's Child Care Center also has

its

own

in-

learn-to-ski option for kids,

which

who

won't or don't

recommended, and

ski.

Reservations

children

must be

Northstar offers extensive cross-country ski-

and lessons. The 20 miles of trails stem from the nordic center located near the Big Springs Day Lodge at the bases of Aspen and Lookout chairs. ing

Getting There Take Highway 267 six miles south from Truckee or six miles north from Tahoe City. Northstar provides free shuttle from the Tahoe-Truckee Airport and from the Amtrak and Greyhound depots in Truckee.

NORTHSTAR-TAHOE AT A GLANCE

LAKE TAHOE AREA

45

SQUAW VALLEY USA Imagine hearing

huge new

for the first

high

ski resort

in

time about a

the mountains,

undeveloped, with more than enough runs for the multitudes expected to descend upon it. Imagine packing to go, exrelatively

about the stories of miles of powder, slopes, long steep runs and alwaysblue skies. Now imagine getting there, and

cited

empty

finding,

instead

resorts,

just

of the

other

El

Dorado of

disgruntled

skiers,

ski all

dressed up with nowhere to go skiing — in fact,

no

ski resort at

all.

Such was the case with the arrive at skiers;

Squaw

first

hopefuls to

Valley, except they weren't

And bumps and powder;

they were prospectors.

weren't looking for

they they

the lode that

stock

was

But the find didn't pan out. Little ore was found, and most of the stampeders simply turned around and went home, or back to the streets of Auburn, Placerville, Sacramen-

San Francisco, and Virginia City. Only a few stayed. And even those who did meandered up the Truckee River to where it

to,

flowed out of Tahoe. There they established the first real town on the Lake, Tahoe City, which, until it was upstaged over a half a century later by the casinos at South Shore, was the center of travel and commerce in the basin.

Legends abound about how Squaw Valley its name. One claims it was named for a

were looking for gold and glory. The year was 1863, and word was out in the mining

got

camps throughout

of her warrior

California

that

"color"

had been found at the mouth of Squaw Creek and upstream into the valley. Soon miners were filing Squaw-ward to get in on

said to surpass the Corn-

itself.

Washoe

Indian

woman

awaiting the return

husband, not knowing he'd

been killed in a battle with a Paiute party. Another is the story of "Indian Charlie," said to have murdered his wife during a game of

46

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

boom

got the Olympics, and the hit

—a

century after

Today,

Squaw

it

finally

had been rumored

Valley offers

some some

to.

of

the world. With its 26 lifts, including a 1 50-passenger aerial tram and six-passenger gondola, 6,000 the finest downhill skiing

in

square acres of skiable terrain, and an uphill capacity of over 30,000 skiers per hour. Squaw can pretty much accommodate the crowds it attracts — "pretty much" because,

any

like

huge

other

destination

resort,

Squaw attracts mobs of people. Skiers come to experience the world-famous runs bowls, and non-skiers to ride the tram to mid-mountain to take in the worldfamous views of the Sierras at their most majestic. On a busy weekend or holiday. Squaw can make sardines in a can look

and

lonely.

Squaw

Nonetheless,

self-respecting

Valley

California

is

a

must

skier.

No

for

any

matter

more than enough match it. Beginning skiers can either stay below on the Pony Tows or, as recommend, head up top on the tram or gondola (which you can take back down at the end of the day) and ski the beginner area above the upper lodge. For inyour

you'll find

ability,

runs— and

lifts— to

I

You don't have

Squaw

to look

hard

to find

bumps

at

Valley.

"squaw poker" and whose name was subsequently changed to "Squaw Valley Charlie." Most agree, though, that the first settlers passing through the region, in the summer of 1849, found only Washoe women in the camps; evidently the men-folk were out hunting, warring— or playing slots at South Shore.

dollar

become a ski resort. First, in 1949, a lodge was built at the end of the valley, and a dou-

— at

the time the largest

world— was run up

in

the

bowl toward Squaw Peak. A mere six years later, Goodwin J. Knight, then governor of California, flew to Europe and presented to the International Olympic Committee his proposal that Squaw Valley host the 1960 Winter Olympics.

ascending

Squaw and

Newport,

Mainline,

Emigrant,

into the

The proposal was accepted. Squaw

as

as

well

Emigrant Peaks: Coast, and Shirley Lake and

Gold

Solitude on the backside.

But

hundred years later. Squaw Valley Development Company took title to much of the area and leased the surrounding mountains: Squaw Valley was about to

A

ble chair

termediate skiers, a great variety of skiable terrain radiates from the network of lifts

it's

able

to

court to country. chutes,

the advanced skier who'll really be appreciate Squaw Valley. Home

some of the hottest skiers in the Squaw offers frighteningly steep

bump

runs that appear to swallow

from which you can (depending on what you

skiers whole, cornices

get

had

GS

1

0-40 feet of

air

for breakfast),

cruising

or

and wide open bowls for making tracks after

for

storms.

Although Squaw's most famous — and not be missed — advanced runs are off Red Dog, KT-22, and Headwall, some excellent advanced skiing also awaits those who to

make

the trek over to Granite Chief, the

LAKE TAHOE AREA back by Shirley Lake. In is worth checking out simply to get a different perspective on Squaw's sprawlingly rugged terrain, as well as to get away from the oftentimes more newer,

triple chair

Granite Chief

fact,

crowded other

mentioning, especially given the reverence most have for this resort. First, the trails and runs are not as well marked as they could be. However, by observing the signs at the lifts,

skiers can

keep from get-

most runs funtoward the bottom and even

ting in over their heads; also, nel eventually

should you overestimate your abilities, you'll eventually end up safely at the base lodge.

The second

much

at

is

Squaw

that tree skiers won't find for

them.

It's

mostly open-

run skiing here, although the committed

some

will

Red Dog, KT-22, and over off Granite Chief. Lastly, as mentioned. Squaw gets crowded. Just to meet its overhead, this resort needs enough skiers to send an ochlophobe screaming for a herfind

mitage Finally,

resort;

lodge,

in

tree skiing off

the Himalayas.

Squaw it's

is

more than

a ski

a village, a complex. At the base

where

cafeterias

Valley

most

and snack

burger joint, taco stand, oyster bar, cookie shop, ice creamery, deli (with carrot cake,

macaroni salad, and imported beer), convencafeteria, ritzy California-chic wine

tional

bar, beer bar,

and

liquor bar. There's also a

post office, a ski shop, and a drug and sun-

chairs.

Squaw's drawbacks are few, but worth

bases of the

47

ski

resorts

bars,

you'll

have find

a

dries store.

Accommodations No real inexpensive lodging is found right at Squaw Valley. If you're looking to save money in this department, you're much better

off staying

Tahoe

in

City or Truckee,

especially since there's a shuttle service to

the slopes. However,

if

you're intent on stay-

bases of the lifts, you have a number of options. Ski packages are available at both the Christy Hill Inn (916/583-8551), a ing at

European-style bed and breakfast within a Squaw's base lodge ($85-$100/ double) and the Christy Hill Condominhalf mile of

iums

(916/583-8551),

at $155/double.

where lodging

You can

starts

also stay at the

Olympic Village Inn (916/583-1501)

for

$125-$150/night. For $150, you get a deluxe dining room and fireplace. For more infor-

mation on lodging

Squaw

Valley

at

USA

Box 2007, Olympic

Squaw Central

Valley,

Valley, write

Reservations,

CA 95730;

or call

SQUAW VALLEY USA (6000

ACRES)

48

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

916/583-5585

free

(toll

in

California:

800/545-4350; in the continental U.S.: 800/824-7954). See also "Accommodations" in

Truckee and Tahoe

folks

from

well as visitors

Squaw

— go

Truckee or Tahoe

Valley — locals as

out to dinner either

City,

where an

in

excellent

of restaurants ranges from McDonald's to elegant dining overlooking the lake. The food selection at Squaw Valley itself, however, is arguably the most extensive of any ski resort in the state (see above). There's also a cafeteria and lodge at the top of the gondola. On nice days, they'll be barbecuing out on the deck, and you can get a decent cheeseburger for about $3. A soft drink will run you a buck, though, and light-

selection

is

a

$6,501

Deals and Discounts

City.

Food Most

lunchers beware: the chef's salad up top

whopping

Senior citizens 65-69 and children 12 and under ski for $5; those 70 and over ski free. Ski Card International: $5 off lift tickets (note: Vouchers

vance

at

must be purchased in adand Sport in Tahoe

Porter's Ski

City or Truckee).

Kids

The

10

Little

(916/583-4743)

is

Indians

Ski

School

for children three to five.

A

day of supervision, lifts, and lunch is $35; half day is $22. Each additional child is $26/day. A coupon book good for ten days

full

is

$270.

SQUAW VALLEY AT A GLANCE

LAKE TAHOE AREA

49

Disabled skiers must give advance notice, and then they are restricted to certain runs

Getting There Take Interstate 80 to Truckee and turn south on Highway 89. The turn-off to Squaw is

times of the day (to be determined by individual circumstance). For details, call

Tahoe

Disabled Skiers

at certain

nine miles south of Truckee, five north of City.

916/583-6985.

MEADOWS

ALPINE Alpine

Meadows,

characteristically low-key

and family-oriented, opened ternative to

its

neighbor

quarter of a century later alternative to

in

1962 as an

Squaw

it's still

Squaw and one

Valley.

al-

A

an excellent

of the best ski

resorts in the west.

Meadows is, in a word, expansive. With over 2,000 acres of skiable terrain, it's not only one of the biggest resorts in the state, but it's also broad and sprawling, givAlpine

Red Dog. At Heavenly, they tell weren't for the Face, they'd ski somewhere else. But ask a local what he

KT-22 you if

about Alpine, and he'll raise an eyebrow, make sure he heard you right, then say, "Everything." And it's true. Alpine has plenty of steep, magnificent views of Tahoe, nice people (skiers as well as employees), and, except for weekends, tolerable

Alpine frontier.

it

likes

ing the skier that likes to explore plenty of

new

or

lift

lines.

Meadows — perhaps more

appropri-

per Saddle, and say there's nothing like

Bowls — is tucked up inside an arched ridge, like the palm of a cupped hand, then spills over the back of that ridge, as though down the other side of the

them around.

hands' "fingers."

ately called Alpine It's

also steep

in

places.

Locals point to

Palisades, upper Wolverine Bowl,

In fact,

one

ing things about Alpine tion with

Folks

and

will

loyalty to the

say they ski

of the

is its

and Up-

most

strik-

skiers' satisfac-

whole mountain.

Squaw because

of

Loosely, Alpine's front side

is

divided into

three sections— lower, middle, and upper

You can see Lake Tahoe from most of

tfie

resorts

around

tfie lake.

—

50

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

MEADOWS

ALPINE (2000

ACRES)

with corresponding ability levels. Summit, Alpine Bowl, and Scott's chairs service the

upper mountain and, for the most part, the advanced and expert skiing. A good skier could easily ride

Summit

Chair

ail

day, skiing

Wolverine and Beaver bowls, the Face and Waterfall. For a change of pace, though, try Promised Land and Scott Chute off Scott's Chair.

some

And

there's

still

the backside, for

open-bowl skiing in the basin. Sun Bowl and South Face both offer steep and treeless skiing, and usually fewer skiers than you'll find on the rest of the mountain (although with the south exposure the backside can get awfully slushy by midof the best

afternoon).

Intermediates will find plenty to satisfy them on Weasel, Yellow, Roundhouse, Kangaroo, and Alpine chairs. Try Yellow Trail, Dance Floor, Terry's, and Blue Trail. Beginners, too, have a lot from which to choose at Alpine, although a first-timer would barely be

touching the

tip of

Memorial Day, while Squaw closed April 29. What's more, Alpine has been known to accommodate the cut-offs and Aloha-shirt crowd right up until the 4th of July. Imagine

bumps

at 10 a.m., swimming in 2 p.m., and then sitting dockside at 9 while fireworks explode overhead.

bashing

Tahoe

at

Accommodations The Alpine Motor Inn (916/583-4266), at the intersection of Highway 89 and Alpine

Meadows Road, has comfortable rooms, some with kitchens. Rates are $40/double Monday through Thursday, $45 Friday through Sunday, and $50 on holidays. The rooms with kitchens are for four persons and start at $75. Each additional person pays $5; roll-away beds and cribs can be rented for $5. Reservations are a must. Write Alpine Motor Inn, Box 32, Tahoe City, CA 95730. See also "Accommodations" in Truckee

and Tahoe

City.

the proverbial iceberg.

Lower

Food

Teigel

For a quick stop before skiing, or on the

lot

Forty, Subway, Meadow chairs, and Poma, all with bases near the parking and main lodge, service the beginner

areas.

Late

in

the

season,

Alpine

becomes synonymous with 1984,

in fact,

Meadows

spring skiing. In

Alpine stayed open through

way

home, the Twain Station, at the junction of Highway 89 and Alpine Meadows Road, is a deli and pastry shop, specializing in coffees and croissant sandwiches. A steaming cup of cafe mocha or cafe latte is $1.25, and sandwiches run $3-7 (the latter on foot-long

LAKE TAHOE AREA There's also imported and draught beer and gourmet chocolate bars. See also "Food" in Tahoe City and Truckee.

rolls).

outdoor

activities.

51

The $35 cost includes ski and supervision.

lessons, equipment, lunch,

Disabled Skiers

Deals and Discounts Groups of 25 or more can purchase tickets at ten percent off and get one free ticket per 25 bought. Senior citizens ski all day at halfday rate, and those 70 and over ski free. Children six and under ski for $5. Alpine also offers discounts to disabled skiers. Alpine's First-timer's package, which includes a fourhour lesson, lift ticket, and equipment, is $36.50 ($27.50 for a two-hour lesson). The

five-day Learn-to-Ski

Package

is

$198 ($158

for children).

Alpine

Alpine's Children's

Snow

School

is

for kids

three to six and includes both indoor and

ALPINE

skier

hosts the most extensive

program

in

the state, the

Tahoe Handicapped Ski School 587-0844).

The school provides

(916/

full-time in-

struction for the blind, amputees, partially

paralyzed,

as

well

as

victims

of

polio,

cerebral palsy, muscular dystrophy, multiple

spina bifida, and neurological damage. Memberships are $25 per day and include equipment, instruction, and sclerosis,

subscription to the school's newsletter. For

more information, write Box 2633, Olympic Valley,

Kids

Meadows

disabled

CA

95730.

Getting There Turn west on Alpine Meadows Road off Highway 89 between Truckee and Tahoe City.

MEADOWS AT A GLANCE

52

CALIFORNIA DOWNHILL

TAHOE CITY Tahoe

City

is

the quintessential ski town:

backwoods cabins and relatively inoffensive condo complexes, coffee shops and fancy restaurants, ski shops and mounwintry

taineering outfitters, a giant Jeffrey pine of

it,

main drag with a in the middle

smack dab

and pick-ups with grinning Labrador

retrievers

the beds.

And

local building restrictions,

even

standing

because of

in

tall

backside of the

"Welcome to Nevada" sign, Tahoe City. And in

a 20-minute drive from

the morning, after a night of watery free drinks, you'll be that much closer to the skiing in

and can allow yourself an extra

wash the

the shower to

from your Looms.

hair

and

half

cigarette

hour

smoke

to air out your Fruit of the

is

Accommodations Doubles at the Tamarack Lodge Motel

spirit), and the town has maintained mountain village feel while allowing some degree of the inevitable creeping development.

the Tahoe City Travel Lodge (916/ 583-3766) run $45-75. Lake of the Sky Motor Inn (916/583-3305) offers doubles

the McDonald's

in

Tahoe

City isn't

offensive to the eye (never mind

all

that

what

it

to the its

(916/583-3350) go for about $30; rooms at

about $50. For more information,

starting at

on Lake Tahoe's northwest shore (Alpine, Squaw, Northstar, Homewood, and Boreal are among the dozen or Centrally located

so

ski

Tahoe

resorts within a half-hour's drive),

City

was once

traction of the entire

the major tourist

Tahoe

basin.

It

no

is,

still balloons on weekends and holidays during the ski season, when visitors arrive from points around the globe: jet-setters fly in from Southern California, Paris, and Buenos Aires to ski Squaw; families drive up from the San Francisco Bay Area to ski Homewood and Tahoe Ski Bowl; and students from the dozens of colleges and universities in the Bay Area and North State set aside their schoolwork to take advantage of the sunshine, the excellent skiing, and the many discounts offered to them by the resorts.

the population

Only 1 5 miles west of the Nevada stateline North Shore, Tahoe City is an ideal place to stay if you plan to dabble at all in Nevada's sins. Though the highrise casinos of South Shore are a 45-minute drive away — more when the roads are snowy— the slots and shows, craps and cavorting of at

Crystal

Bay await you

virtually

tion call

the North Tahoe Visitors and Conven-

Bureau

them

at 916/583-3494;

toll

you can also

free at 800/822-5959

800/824-8557 (from out of

nia) or

(in Califor-

state).

at-

having taken a backseat to the lights and casinos of South Shore. And you can bet most of Tahoe City's 5,000 yearround residents don't mind a bit — although longer

call

on the

Food

Among

many

the

breakfast

excellent places to eat

Tahoe

in

City

are

Rosie's

and the Fire Sign Cafe (916/583-0871). At Rosie's, located (916/583-8504)

downtown

very close to the tree

in

the road,

you can get everything from "one measly pancake" ($.75) to "Mother Mogul's Moussle — a bowl of rolled oats, grated apple, pureed banana, yogurt, raisins, nuts, sweetened with honey. Kiss on the lips not included" ($2.75). Those planning to hit the slopes hard— or to take a short nap after breakfast — might want to try the Eggs Sardo:

hot

buttered

scrambled

eggs,

artichoke

hearts

with

topped with crab and

Hollandaise sauce ($5.95). Delicious bread

baked

couple

Just a

Highway

89,

miles

The

hearty breakfasts phere,

is

daily, too.

its

south

of

town on

Sign Cafe serves up a down-home atmos-

Fire in

prices ranging from $1.75 for a

cup of fresh fruit and a homemade poppyseed muffin to $4.25 for huevos rancheros. If you happen to be around town at lunch time, try a sandwich at the Gourmet

LAKE TAHOE AREA Pub

Chalet

and

Deli

located just west of the tree

(916/583-2292), in

the road. The

Chalet serves excellent sandwiches for $4, honnennade soups, and a variety of "Pub

They

Specials."

cheesecake,

also

chocolate

serve truffle

homemade cake,

and

English stilton and port for dessert, cater

banquets and pack picnic baskets, and stock an impressive selection of wines and imported beers. For dinner, try the Mexican food at Hacienda Del Lago (916/583-0358) in downtown Tahoe City, without doubt some of the best food at the best prices in the Tahoe area. salad, the

Recommended:

the taco

chimachangas, and the changas

del lago ($5.95). $1 .75 for a taco,

A

la

carte prices start at

and specials and combina-

tions run to $7. At $2.50, the Hacienda's

53

Cross Country Big Chief Guides Nordic Center (916/ 587-4723), along the Truckee River between Tahoe City and Truckee, maintains 25 miles of trails and offers lessons and rentals, as well as minimal accommodations. For more information, write Big Chief Guides Nordic Center, Box 5669, Tahoe City, CA 95730.

Tahoe Nordic

just two Tahoe City, offers 22 tours, and a day lodge.

(916/583-9858),

miles northeast of miles of

trails,

Child Care in

Tahoe

Animal Crackers

City

(916/583-1058).

Movie Theaters in the Tahoe City Area Cobblestone Cinema (916/583-5403), in the Cobblestone Building downtown. Squaw Valley Theater (916/583-3109), in

margaritas are huge and excellent (and hand blended, if you so specify to your waitress).

Squaw

There's

Of Special Interest The rear ends you see lined up along "Fanny Bridge" at the Lake Tahoe outlet belong to

also

a

Victoria

Station

(916/-

Tahoe City, at 425 N. Lake Boulevard, where you can always count on excellent prime rib and a salad bar full of fresh fruit and vegetables. Lakehouse Piz583-6939)

in

za (916/583-2222) at 120 Grove

huge

pizzas

and pitchers of

Way

serves

beer.

For a

splurge, try Jal