Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets 0764588303, 9780764588303, 9780764599941

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Bring Me Home!

CATS make GREAT PETS Margaret H. Bonham

Bring Me Home!

CATS make GREAT PETS

Bring Me Home!

CATS make GREAT PETS Margaret H. Bonham

Copyright © 2005 by Margaret Bonham. All rights reserved. Howell Book House Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Color insert photos by Tammy Raabe Rao/Rubicat Design & Photography: pages 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 (top), 6, 7 (top left and bottom), and 8. Photos on page 5 (bottom) and page 7 (top right) provided by Roxane Cerda. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, Howell Book House, and related trademarks are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. The publisher and the author make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales or promotional materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for every situation. This work is sold with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If professional assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought. Neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for damages arising here from. The fact that an organization or Website is referred to in this work as a citation and/or a potential source of further information does not mean that the author or the publisher endorses the information the organization or Website may provide or recommendations it may make. Further, readers should be aware that Internet Websites listed in this work may have changed or disappeared between when this work was written and when it is read. For general information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at (800) 762-2974, outside the U.S. at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, please visit our web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Control Number: 2005926634 ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8830-3 ISBN-10: 0-7645-8830-3 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Book design by Melissa Auciello-Brogan Cover design by Suzanne Sunwoo Book production by Wiley Publishing, Inc. Composition Services

Table of Contents 1

Introduction Chapter

1

Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

3

Time and Living Commitments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Financial Commitment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Environmental Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 A Good Match . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Chapter

2

13

Choosing a Cat

Moggie versus Pedigreed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 How Big Will the Cat Be? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Male or Female? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Longhair, Shorthair, or No Hair? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Kitten or Adult? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Breed Overview (and List) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Where to Find Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Picking Out Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Chapter

3

Preparing for Your Cat

35

Indoor Cat or Indoor-Outdoor Cat? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Where Should Your Cat Stay? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Stocking Up on Cat Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Choosing a Veterinarian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

v

Chapter

4

51

Cat-Proofing

House Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Garage Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Backyard Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Safety Shopping List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

Chapter

5

Bringing Your Cat Home

65

When to Bring Your Cat Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 When Not to Bring Your Cat Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 The Car Ride Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 First Stop, the Veterinarian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Introducing the Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Introducing Other Cats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Introducing Dogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Introducing Other Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

Chapter

6

77

Family Education

The First Few Days and Nights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Basic Manners with a Cat or Kitten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Teaching House Manners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Chapter

7

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

85

Understanding How to Feed Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Going to the Vet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Exercise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Grooming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Socializing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

vi

Chapter

8

109

Emergencies

Emergency Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 How to Restrain Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Assembling a First-Aid Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Treatments and Transport for Common Cat Injuries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Family Disaster Planning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

Chapter

9

Litter Box Behavior

119

Types of Litter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 The Nose Knows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Litter Boxes and Other Technicalities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Where to Put the Litter Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Solving Litter Box Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122

Chapter

10

Having Fun with Your Cat

125

Clicker Training for Kitty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Introducing the Clicker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Tricks You Can Teach Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Setting Up a Kitty Obstacle Course . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Fun Games to Play with Your Cat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

Chapter

11

135

Problem Kitties

Preventing Problem Behaviors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Aggression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Counter Creeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Vocalizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Fear of Thunder and Loud Noises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140

vii

Spraying and Inappropriate Defecation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Scratching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Leaving behind Killed Animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 What If It Doesn’t Work Out? Options for the Cat Owner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

Chapter

12

Your Cat As Part of the Family

145

Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Vacations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Boarding Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Pet Sitters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 The Workplace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

Appendix

157

Useful Resources

How to Use This Appendix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Cat Breed List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Vaccination Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Veterinary Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Chore Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Emergency Veterinarian Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Pet Sitter Journal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Kennel Information Sheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

Coloring Pages

172

Index

175

viii

To Larry, as always To Hailey, the world’s greatest cat And to Beth Adelman and Dusty Rainbolt, who made me into a cat person despite myself

Acknowledgments I wish to thank those who made this book possible: Jessica Faust of Bookends; the Howell team: Roxane Cerda, Cindy Kitchel, Christina Stambaugh, Kathy Nebenhaus, Jennifer Connolly; technical reviewer Dusty Rainbolt; cat friend and expert Beth Adelman; and special thanks to Larry, who has been through this often.

ix

Introduction

S

o you want to own a cat? Cats are the most popular pets—but they’re not for everyone. After reading this book, you’ll understand a bit more about what it takes to own a cat and find out if there’s a cat in your future. Learn the basics of cat ownership and what you need to do to find a well-adjusted and healthy pet. Unlike many guides that focus on simple cat ownership, I focus on how a cat will fit into your family and your life.

This book is intended for the first-time pet owner and also for families looking to add a pet to their lives. Inside are checklists, tips, and questionnaires that will help you decide what to do when choosing, caring for, and training your cat. These tools help you focus on what it takes to own a cat and help you assess your family’s—and your cat’s—particular situation. Expect to find:

• • • •

Worksheets that help you figure out if you’re ready for a cat, assist you in finding the right cat, give important questions to ask shelters and breeders, and aid in your search for a veterinarian Checklists to help you cat-proof every room in your house and the outdoors, figure out what supplies you need, and decide between a moggie and a pedigreed cat Information on how to deal with emergencies, as well as guidelines for proper nutrition for your cat, and common kitty problems Step-by-step instructions for training—or retraining—your cat

I hope you use this book as an interactive resource to turn to again and again to help with your decision-making and organization. Each chapter opens and closes with a bulleted list that guides you through the chapter at a glance.

1

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

2 In the very back is an appendix, “Useful Resources.” I encourage you to photocopy the forms, punch holes in them using a three-hole punch, and put them in a three-ring binder marked “Cat Records,” along with some sheet protectors where you can keep vital records and information about your cat handy at all times. I also have chore lists that you can post on the refrigerator and refer to at any time. As your cat becomes a part of your family, you’ll find yourself constantly referring to the notebook. When were his last shots? How did she do with the pet sitter? Do you remember when she learned how to come on command? All of these things and more make up your cat’s life and should be written in your notebook. These will enhance your pet ownership experience. With the tools and resources I provide for you, I hope you find the experience of owning a cat an enjoyable one.

Chapter 1 What’s Inside . . . Learn what time constraints a cat will put on your lifestyle. Learn the costs of cat ownership. Learn if your living situation warrants owning a cat. Learn if a cat is the right pet for you.

Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

Y

ou’re looking for a pet and have decided that you want a cat. Congratulations! You’re in good company. Many cat owners love their cats so much that they’ve become like potato chips—just one is not satisfying. In fact, the cat is the most popular house pet—there are nearly seventy-eight million cats who are house pets as compared to sixty-five million dogs. Although a cat is more independent than a dog, a cat will still show plenty of affection to her owners, and nothing beats the coziness of cuddling up with your cat on a cold evening. Unless you want to train your cat beyond litter box training (which is easy with most cats), very little obedience training is required. In fact, many cat owners are happy with their cats’ behavior, without ever having had to train them to sit, come, or lie down. Because cats don’t require the constant attention that a dog does, the busy family can still have a cat. This isn’t to say that cats don’t need attention; they do—just not as much as a dog needs. A dog usually requires kenneling when you go on vacation, but a cat can get along with just a pet sitter and may actually prefer it! But that doesn’t mean that a cat is a furry houseplant. Cats need affection, love, and attention, but they also need training (litter box and scratching to name two) and require (sometimes costly) veterinary care. Let’s look at what’s required of cat ownership.

3

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

4

Preventing Pet Overpopulation If you adopt a cat from a shelter, you’ll hear a lot about pet overpopulation and unwanted pets. It’s been estimated that three to four million pets are euthanized every year in the United States. The reasons vary, but many cats are given up because their former owners bought them without understanding all the ramifications involved. By picking up this book, you’ve taken the first step toward responsible pet ownership.

Time and Living Commitments Although cats are pretty independent, you may be surprised to find out that they require quite a bit of time from their owners. Overall, a cat is a fifteen-to-twenty-year commitment, which means you must provide for him every day—you can’t take off for a weekend excursion without considering care for your cat while you’re gone. You have to be ready to spend time with your cat at the end of the day. He needs food, water, and playtime daily, and you must scoop your cat’s litter box every day. Every day? Yes, every day. To give you a sample of these time and living commitments, here’s an idea of what it takes to care for your cat daily. As kittens, cats get into everything. You’ll be spending your time trying to extricate your kitten from all sorts of trouble. He’ll need a good deal of attention as a kitten to bond with you, and you’ll need to watch him closely. You’ll wonder how this cute ball of fluff could be so destructive so fast. Because of this, you’ll need to spend time kitten-proofing your house, and you must put your kitten in a safe place when you can’t watch him. Feeding, playing with, and grooming your cat all take some time. Mealtimes are twice a day, which means you have to be there to feed your cat. In addition to feeding, you need to spend a half an hour or more playing with your cat to provide him with good physical activity and mental stimulation. Grooming takes time, too. Depending on the length of the fur, brushing and combing a cat can take fifteen minutes to a half hour. Are you willing to scoop the litter box at least once a day? You need at least one litter box per cat, and you have to scoop once a day and clean the litter box once a week. Scooping takes a few minutes, but cleaning a litter box may take a half hour, depending on what’s stuck to the bottom. Training your cat is vitally important, too. While most kitties are, by nature, litter box trained, the biggest reason cats are euthanized is that they eliminate outside the litter box (see the discussion on litter box training in chapter 9). Cleaning up after a kitty who has gone outside the box may take fifteen minutes to a half hour per incident. Trying to retrain your

5

There’s no such thing as a free cat. If you decide to buy or adopt a kitten, you can expect certain costs the first year. The following is a list of potential costs and services you might use. I’ve tried to give a realistic price for these first-year costs, but your costs may vary based on your location and the services you use. Note: Not every cost is a one-time occurrence, so I’ve noted in parentheses when you can expect to pay for something more than once. Item

Cost per Item

Total

Veterinary Care FPV/FVR/FCV combo vaccination Rabies vaccination FeLV vaccination Office visit Spay/neuter Deworming

$10–$50 (x2) $10–$30 $30–$75 (x2) $10–$30 (x4) $50–100 $20–$50 (x2)

$20–$100 $10–$30 $60–$150 $40–$120 $50–$100 $40–$100

Supplies Travel carrier Bowls Cat food Cat toys Grooming supplies Collar Miscellaneous

$20 $5–$10 (x2) $10–$20 per month (x12) $3–$10 (x6) $10–$20 $5–$10 $10–$50

$20 $10–$20 $120–$240 $18–$60 $10–$20 $5–$10 $10–$50

Services Boarding

$10–$20 per day (x 14)

$140–$280

cat to use the litter box may cost both time and money because of veterinary visits and devices to keep your cat away from areas where he’s been eliminating. Cats can be downright inconvenient, too. You may be dressing up for the big party and find a hacked up fur ball in your shoes. You may invite the boss over for dinner and find that your cat left you a nice present in the form of a dead mouse on the chair where your boss was going to sit. Your couch might end up looking a bit ratty after your cat decides to redecorate it with his scratchings. Most cat owners are familiar with cat hair. Vacuuming it up (yes, it goes everywhere) can take extra time from your day. If you’re a particularly fastidious person, owning a cat may not be for you.

Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

How Much Does a Cat Cost?

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

6

Financial Commitment While cats are fairly low-cost pets, be aware that they aren’t free. The cost of a cat goes beyond his purchase price. All cats require adequate food, supplies, and veterinary care. The cost of getting a cat in the first year usually amounts to several hundred dollars. If you rent your home, you may be charged a pet deposit or even an extra fee each month to own a pet. Depending on your veterinarian’s recommendation and your cat’s risk of contracting diseases, your kitten may need a series of two to four vaccinations (usually a FPV combo and rabies), and he’ll need deworming. If he’s an outside cat, she’ll also need to be tested for heartworm and will need a heartworm preventive. In addition, your kitten should be spayed or neutered as early as possible. Most cats are expensive for the first year of their lives because they require vaccinations, spaying or neutering, supplies, and veterinary checkups. The cost usually decreases or remains steady during the cat’s adult life (assuming no serious injury or illness) and then rises again as the cat passes 10 years of age. Problems such as cancer, arthritis, and other age-related diseases may crop up after that time. But there are other costs related to owning a cat. Money spent buying treats, toys, cat trees, beds, cleaners and cleaning appliances, litter boxes, litter, and training items adds up quickly.

Environmental Requirements So far, I’ve talked about the time and monetary requirements of owning a cat. The third requirement has to do with you and your lifestyle. Cats are very adaptable creatures, but there are situations that just aren’t conducive to owning a cat.

An Outside Cat? Because most people think that their cats must be bored if kept inside all day, many people are still under the notion that cats need to go outside. But your cat can be exposed to great danger when you let him outside. She can be hit by cars, chased by dogs, or fall victim to cruel humans who hate cats. If you live in a rural or even a suburban setting, your cat can become prey to coyotes and other predators. Furthermore, your cat can contract deadly diseases such as FeLV (feline leukemia), FIV (feline AIDS), and FIP (feline infectious peritonitis), which have no cure. The bottom line is the life expectancy for an outdoor cat is pretty grim—most don’t live past 8 years old. Cats who stay inside or are properly contained outside (by a cat fence or cat run) are more likely to live longer than cats who are allowed to wander freely outside.

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If you rent, be aware that not all apartments are cat friendly, although a majority of pet-friendly places are. Many rentals will allow cats even if they allow no other kinds of pets. Talk with your landlord about bringing in a cat. If you have kids, you may be thinking that getting a cat is a good way to teach your children about responsibility. This is fine; however, an adult in your household must ultimately care for the cat. While children can help in the daily tasks, cat ownership requires a knowledgeable adult to oversee the cat’s care. You really can’t expect a young child to be responsible for a living, sentient creature. You can give kids tasks to do (as long as you follow up on them), but most children can’t care for a cat properly on their own. While kittens are adorable, they’re also quite fragile. If you have very young children, they can hurt the kitten if they’re allowed to play with it. Even gentle toddlers can be too rough for a kitten, so reconsider getting a kitten if your children are under 10 years old.

Questions to Ask Yourself Consider the following questions when getting ready to adopt or purchase a cat or kitten. A cat is a fifteen-to-twenty-year commitment. Are you willing to rearrange your life for that long to care for a cat?

Can you be home every day or make arrangements so that your cat can eat, drink, relieve himself in a clean litter box, and get enough playtime?

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Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

First and foremost, your cat must be safe and secure. That means you can’t let your cat run loose in the neighborhood, whether you’re in the country or in a big city. It’s just too dangerous. Luckily, cats make great indoor-only pets. With the right amount of cat toys and cat trees, your cat will never even know what he’s missing.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

8 Who will take care of your cat? Children can’t be expected to take responsibility for a cat. A cat must be the responsibility of an adult in the household.

Are you willing to put up with a certain amount of destructiveness associated with a cat? Cats may occasionally urinate in inappropriate places and may scratch items that aren’t supposed to be scratched.

Are you willing to train your cat not to be destructive?

Are you willing to teach your cat not to get up on counters or places where she could hurt herself?

Are you willing to put up with cat hair? Fur balls? Occasional “presents” from your cat?

Are you willing to groom your cat as required? Long-haired cats require more grooming than short-haired ones.

Do you have enough time and are willing to spend that time with your cat every day?

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Are you willing to scoop the litter box every day and clean it once a week?

Is anyone in your family allergic to cats? If yes, you may have to consider getting a different pet.

Does everyone in your family want a cat? Everyone must agree on wanting a cat.

If you rent, does your landlord allow cats?

A free or inexpensive cat is not a cost-free pet. You must buy cat food, bowls, a bed, toys, and grooming items. Routine veterinary care and other care (should the medical need arise) will add to expenses. Are you prepared to take on the financial responsibility of owning a cat?

If you’ve answered these questions positively, you’re ready to consider owning a cat.

Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

Are you willing to have an indoor-only cat? Barring that, are you willing to have a specially fenced-in backyard or part of a backyard that will allow your cat to enjoy the outdoors safely?

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A Truly Hypoallergenic Cat? Pet lovers who are looking for a hypoallergenic cat may have found their answer. A company called Allerca is doing research to produce such a cat. Using a technology called gene silencing, they hope to block the Fel d1 protein (the protein that causes most allergies in people) in cats. You can find out more by checking out their website at www.allerca.com. Before you rush out to purchase your Allerca cat, as of this writing, the technology hasn’t been proven and reservations for an Allerca cat are pricey at $3,500 a kitten. Also, the first litter of kittens won’t be available until 2007. There are many questions as to whether this will work. It’s probably best to wait and see if genetics can actually produce a cat who is truly allergy-friendly. At the moment, you’re better off talking with your allergist on how to mitigate your allergies instead of investing in an unproven product.

A Good Match Cats come with a variety of personalities—just like people. Some are wonderful to be around; others are cantankerous and curmudgeonly. However, finding just the right match can take some time and perseverance and may be difficult if you don’t know what kind of cat personality actually suits you. Not all cats are right for everyone. Even if you have the best intentions, sometimes you and a particular cat just won’t click. Many people are surprised to learn that there are differences in each of the cat breeds. It’s not just a matter of size, hair, or color, but a question of personality and activity level, too. No matter how pretty some cats are, if their personality doesn’t fit your lifestyle, your relationship won’t work, and the cat will most likely be the loser in this situation. So, think carefully about what’s required to have a successful relationship. Consider the following when deciding if a cat is right for you:

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Children can hurt small cats and kittens. Some cats will defend themselves and can hurt a teasing child with scratches. In the case of toddlers, kittens are not appropriate. In most cases, an older cat who has been around toddlers would make a fine pet. Many rescue groups and shelters have such cats. Apartment dwellers may not be allowed to own cats. Check with your landlord. Some cats require a lot of grooming. Cats may bring you presents, namely, dead animals or portions of dead animals. Boundary training is required to keep cats off counters and other parts of your home. Cats will climb on things and sleep on furniture.

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If you are an older person, a cat can accidentally scratch you and the scratch can become infected. If you have allergies, be aware that there is no such thing as a hypoallergenic cat. There are cats who have less of the feline protein that causes allergic reactions, but that doesn’t guarantee that you won’t be allergic to them. Many cats shed profusely. You will have cat hair on your clothes, woven into your carpet, and even in your food. Some pet owners joke that cat hair is a condiment. Cats can be very destructive. They often scratch things you don’t want them to and may spray inside the house.

Myths Surrounding Cat Ownership Surprisingly, there are a lot of myths when it comes to cat ownership. Cats have taken a bad rap over the centuries, and some of the myths exist to this day. Let’s look at some attitudes about cats and see why they are just plain wrong.

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Cats don’t bond to people. If socialized and handled properly, a cat will bond strongly to a person. Cats don’t need attention. While cats are solitary hunters, they often choose to live in colonies when feral. Cats like the social structure and interaction. Cats harm wildlife. While this is true to a certain degree, cats are not responsible for the decline of certain bird species. Cats do hunt and kill birds, but they are better at hunting and killing rodents. The biggest threat to wild birds isn’t cats; it’s people. Inside cats don’t harm birds. Also, cats help control rodent populations, which spread disease. Cats can survive on their own in the wild. A house cat is no wilder than any other domesticated animal and will likely starve to death in the wild. Cats need to go outside. A cat can be just as happy inside with plenty of toys and entertainment. Outdoor cats will likely have a life span of 8 years or less. Cats cannot be affectionate. Cats tend to give as much love and affection as they get. So, if you love your cat, she will love you back. Cats are self-maintaining. Your cat still needs food, water, training, affection, and veterinary care. Cats are dangerous to babies because they will smother them or suck the life out of them. While no animal should be left alone with a baby, cats do not smother babies. It is most likely that the cat enjoys the baby’s warmth, if she’s interested in him at all. It’s now believed that many babies who were thought to have had the breath sucked out of them by cats actually died of sudden infant death syndrome.

Are You Ready to Get a Cat?

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Toxoplasmosis If you’re pregnant, you may be worried about owning a cat and risking toxoplasmosis. This protozoan parasite can cause birth defects and miscarriages in pregnant women who contract the disease while pregnant. Cats usually carry this disease because of their hunting habits. However, before you panic, be aware that over half the human population has already been infected with toxoplasmosis. If you’re one of the lucky ones, you can’t be further infected and there’s no risk to your baby. (Ask your doctor for a test to determine if you’ve been infected with it in the past.) Toxoplasmosis is transferred via the oral-fecal route, meaning that you have to touch cat feces and then stick your fingers in your mouth before washing them to contract toxoplasmosis. (You can also get toxoplasmosis from handling raw meat.) Furthermore, according to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), cats kept indoors who don’t hunt prey and aren’t fed raw meat aren’t likely to have toxoplasmosis. The CDC also says that once cats are infected they pass the parasite through the feces. It takes a day or two for the feces to become infective. In other words, if the litter box is scooped every day, the feces can’t develop the parasite. Then, the parasite has to be ingested. Cats aren’t infectious for more than two weeks if they have toxoplasmosis, so the chance of being infected is remarkably low. You’re more likely to get toxoplasmosis from eating undercooked meat or gardening in infected soil than you are from your cat. Having someone else clean the litter box or wearing gloves and a mask while cleaning it are further measures you can take to avoid getting infected. Talk with your doctor if you have any concerns about toxoplasmosis.

What You Now Know . . . Cats require time, attention, and training. Cats are not free pets. They require a certain monetary commitment. You may want to reconsider getting a kitten if you have children younger than 10 years old, are constantly busy, travel frequently, or are unable to care for a cat or make the necessary time commitment. Not all cats are alike. Look for a cat whose personality matches you and your lifestyle. You must provide a safe and secure environment for your cat.

Chapter 2 What’s Inside . . . Learn the advantages and disadvantages of pedigreed and domestic shorthairs. Learn what choices you need to consider when choosing the right cat for you. Learn where to get the very best cat or kitten. Learn how to choose the ideal cat or kitten.

Choosing a Cat

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ou’re ready to own a cat or kitten, but now you have decisions to make. What kind of cat do you want? You have to choose moggie or pedigreed, kitten or adult, male or female, size, and hair length. One important choice to make is where to get your new pet. Many people don’t know where to look, and the avenues they choose often aren’t the best ones. If you’re planning on buying or adopting a cat, be sure that you get the very best cat for your family and that you get him from a reputable source.

Moggie versus Pedigreed So which type of cat are you looking for? Are you in love with the sleekness of the Siamese? The size of the Maine Coon? Or maybe the versatility of the moggie? Whatever look you may be seeking, you can find a cat out there for you. Which type of cat is best really is a matter of opinion. Both moggies and pedigreed cats make outstanding pets. So let’s break down your choices.

What Is a Moggie? When most people think about getting a cat, they think in terms of a domestic shorthair (DSH) or just a plain, garden-variety cat. Sometimes people make a distinction between short-haired and long-haired cats and call the latter domestic longhair (DLH), but these are just designations for a domestic cat without a particular breed, in other words, a moggie.

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

14 The moggie can be any color: tabby (with mackerel, classic, spotted, ticked, or patched tabby patterns), pointed (with markings on the legs, tail, and ears), calico (black and red with white), tortoiseshell (black and red), bicolor, or solid. If you’re looking for the greatest choice and the best price (many moggies are free or available for the price of an adoption at a shelter or rescue), look no further than the moggies. There isn’t anything wrong with owning a moggie. In fact, unless you have reasons for getting a pedigreed cat, you’re more likely to find the perfect companion in a moggie. The availability of moggies is phenomenal. Like people, they come with a variety of personalities and looks to suit anyone’s taste. You’re likely to find the perfect cat when you look at a moggie.

Pedigreed Cats Should you consider a pedigreed cat? There aren’t as many cat breeds as dog breeds. The Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) recognizes only forty-one cat breeds; the International Cat Association (TICA), sixty-one; and American Cat Fanciers’ Association (ACFA), forty-six. (Compare that to the American Kennel Club [AKC], which has 150 recognized dog breeds.) Pedigreed cats also have their positives. With a pedigreed cat, you get a distinctive look and can usually rely on the type of personality you might see. A pedigreed won’t have as many surprises in size or looks, which means that if you know what the parents look like, you can guess the kittens will look similar. Pedigreed cats can compete in CFA and TICA cat shows.

Deciding if a Moggie or a Pedigreed Cat Is for You Moggie □ I don’t want to pay a lot for my cat. □ I don’t necessarily want a special look. □ I want a nice companion that will be primarily a pet. □ I want to save a life. □ I will neuter or spay my cat. Pedigreed □ I want a cat with a special temperament and look. □ I like a particular breed and that is the best breed. □ I don’t mind paying a fair amount of money to have the type of cat I want. □ I want to enter my pet in cat shows.

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How Big Will the Cat Be? Unlike dogs, cats come in more or less one size. Most cats fall into a range of five to fifteen pounds when fully grown. However, there are certainly exceptions such as small Siamese cats or large Maine Coon cats. With a moggie, a lot depends on genetics and nutrition. Here are just a few of the things that factor into the size of your cat: parents’ stature (Was her father a big tomcat? Was her mom tiny?); nutrition (Did her mother get enough to eat during pregnancy and when the kittens were nursing?); and health (Was the mother sickly? Did the kitten receive a balanced diet?)

Male or Female? Which is better? Actually both are wonderful pets provided that you spay or neuter (remove the reproductive organs) them. An altered cat, regardless of sex, makes a fine pet. Unless you’re planning to show your cat, you should always spay or neuter your pet. Cats can become aggressive, noisy, or just downright troublesome if you don’t, and both intact male and female cats will spray. Plus, if a female cat copulates, she’s going to have kittens because the act of breeding stimulates ovulation in a cat, almost guaranteeing that the cat will become pregnant.

Longhair, Shorthair, or No Hair? One consideration for the pet owner is whether to go longhair or shorthair. Short-haired cats are naturally less prone to tangles and mats in their hair than long-haired cats and therefore need less grooming. Some just need a quick brush once in a while or even a hand brushing. A long-haired cat is going to need brushing and combing every day or two plus have his back legs cleaned up every time he goes to the litter box (poop sticks to long hair). There’s a price to pay for those good looks! What about a very sparsely haired or a hairless cat like the Sphynx or the Cornish Rex? Because their skin is oily, they need baths every few days just like people. Those kitties need help staying warm and get cold easily without blankets or sweaters. While you will not be doing much brushing, you might end up knitting some cat-warming accessories!

Choosing a Cat

On the negative side, pedigreed cats can have genetic diseases that exist within certain lines or even within the breed. Also, most pedigreed kittens tend to be costly. You can expect to pay $300 or more for a pedigreed pet-quality kitten, and a show-quality kitten can cost over $1,000. Pedigreed adults usually cost about half or less than what you would expect to pay for a kitten if you get them from a shelter or from rescue.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Kitten or Adult? There’s nothing more adorable than a kitten. Who, except those with the strongest will, can resist one? Kittens are beyond cute. As you watch your little fluff-ball grow up, she’ll endear herself to you every moment. But kittens are a lot of work. They’re very active and get into the darnedest things. They require much more attention than a cat and need more socialization. If no one is around during the day, you might wish to reconsider owning a kitten. While kittens are indeed cute and loving, their personalities may change as they go into adolescence. You may end up with a very aloof cat. If you’re looking for a stable temperament, get an adult cat. Adult cats will have settled down a bit and won’t need all the attention and exercise a kitten requires. There aren’t too many surprises with a grown cat—what you see is what you get. However, a cat may have picked up bad habits from previous owners or may have been traumatized during his life. In this case, socialization is important. Adult cats generally aren’t as adoptable as kittens. If you’re looking to rescue a cat from a shelter, the neediest ones are usually adults. Cats older than 8 face a grim future. Most are euthanized because people usually want a kitten. The truth is that older cats make great pets. Remember that cats can live up to 20 years with good care, so an older cat may have a lot of loving years ahead of him. An older cat is more appropriate for a family with small children because the cat already knows it can simply walk away if a child annoys him. Older cats are great for seniors too because they’re less active and also less likely to be underfoot.

Breed Overview (and List) Unlike dog breeds (which have often been developed for a specific purpose), cat breeds have been created primarily as companions. Whether you’re looking for long-haired, short-haired, curly-coated, folded ears, curly ears, tailless, furless, small, or big, there’s a cat breed to suit your tastes. The breeds recognized by CFA, TICA, and ACFA include: Abyssinian (CFA, TICA, ACFA) American Bobtail (CFA, TICA, ACFA) American Curl (CFA, TICA, ACFA) American Shorthair (CFA, TICA, ACFA) American Wirehair (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Balinese (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Bengal (TICA, ACFA) Birman (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Bombay (CFA, TICA, ACFA) British Longhair (TICA) British Shorthair (CFA, TICA, ACFA)

Burmese (CFA, TICA, ACFA) California Spangled (TICA) Chartreux (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Chausie (TICA) Colorpoint Shorthair (CFA) Cornish Rex (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Cyrmric (TICA, ACFA) Devon Rex (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Don Hairless (TICA) Egyptian Mau (CFA, TICA, ACFA) European Burmese (CFA)

17 Pixiebob (TICA) Ragamuffin (CFA, ACFA) Ragdoll (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Russian Blue (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Savannah (TICA) Scottish Fold (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Selkirk Rex (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Siamese (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Siberian (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Singapura (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Snowshoe (TICA, ACFA) Somali (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Sphynx (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Tiffany/Chantilly (ACFA) Tonkinese (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Toyger (TICA) Turkish Angora (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Turkish Van (CFA, TICA, ACFA)

Where to Find Your Cat Where do you find the perfect cat or kitten for you and your family? Look in the newspaper? Visit a shelter? Go to a pet store? Search the Internet? Ask your neighbor? You can get a cat or kitten just about anywhere—walking down the street, you might even have a cat follow you home, but is this the cat for you? Where you get your cat is important, especially if you’re planning to pay to get a pedigreed cat. Regardless of whether you’re going to spend a fair amount of money on a cat or you’re looking for just a great companion, you should get the very best cat for your money, time, and effort. Just remember that often the easiest avenues for purchasing a cat aren’t necessarily the best. Those advertising “kittens always available” are commercial breeders that breed solely for profit. Reputable cat breeders look to produce healthy kittens—ones who are disease free.

Breed Book You can learn more about a cat breed through The Cat Fanciers’ Association Complete Cat Book, edited by Mordecai Siegal (New York: HarperCollins, 2004).

Choosing a Cat

Exotic (CFA, TICA) Havana Brown (CFA, TICA) Highland Fold (ACFA) Himalayan (TICA, ACFA) Household Pet (TICA) Japanese Bobtail (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Javanese (CFA) Korat (CFA, TICA, ACFA) LaPerm (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Maine Coon Cat (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Manx(CFA, TICA, ACFA) Munchkin (TICA) Nebelung (TICA) Norwegian Forest Cat (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Ocicat (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Ojos Azules (TICA) Oriental (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Persian (CFA, TICA, ACFA) Peterbald (TICA)

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Checklist for Finding a Reputable Source for Pedigreed Cats □ □ □ □

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All cats are offered with health guarantees. Source will take back the cat at any time of the cat’s life. Kittens’ parents are screened for hereditary diseases known to appear in the breed. The cats bred are registered through the Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA), The International Cat Association (TICA), American Cat Fanciers’ Association (ACFA), or a legitimate international registry. Cats are bred to improve bloodlines or for healthy kittens, not just to produce kittens. Source breeds no more than five litters a year or has a Cattery of Excellence certification. Source will have only one or two breeds available. Kittens are not always available. Source will not sell kittens just in time for Christmas or the holidays. No kitten is taken away from her mother until she is 12 weeks old. Kittens are dewormed and vaccinated. Source understands the need for proper socialization and raises the kittens in a household. Source has a contract which stipulates all guarantees. Source has proven well-adjusted and well-socialized kittens.

Reputable Breeders You’ll hear me talk a lot about reputable and responsible breeders and how you should look for one when purchasing a pedigreed cat or kitten. But what exactly does a reputable breeder do that’s so different from the others? First and foremost, reputable breeders aren’t breeding pedigreed cats for the money. As hokey as it might sound, they’ve fallen in love with their breed and want to improve the breed any way they can. That means producing the best cats possible. Responsible breeders are totally devoted to their breed. They’re fanatics—in a good sense. They have books of photos of their cats and trophies and ribbons lining their walls. They talk about kittens they placed like they were their grandkids and tell you about all their accomplishments. Responsible breeders know their breed’s standard and don’t breed just to have kittens, but to improve their bloodlines and to produce healthy kittens. They seldom breed their cats, and kittens aren’t always available. Most reputable breeders have a waiting list for their kittens and screen their buyers rigorously.

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Reputable breeders also screen for hereditary diseases associated with their breed. They want to ensure that the kittens they’re breeding are the healthiest they can be. Reputable breeders also tell you everything about the breed you’re considering—both the positives and the negatives. They won’t try to pressure you into buying a kitten right on the spot. Finding a reputable breeder isn’t particularly hard if you know where to look. CFA, ACFA, and TICA often offer breeder referrals where reputable breeders usually advertise. You can find many reputable breeders at CFA, ACFA, and TICA cat shows. Look in the Fanciers’ Breeder Referral List (www.breedlist.com) or check out the advertising in cat magazines.

Steps for Finding a Reputable Breeder 1. Go to www.cfa.org, www.tica.org, www.acfacat.com, or www.breedlist.com and find the national breed club or breeder referral (if listed) on the websites. If no breeder referral is listed, go to the breed club’s website and look for a breeder referral contact or contact one of the members of the breed club. 2. Contact the breeder referral person for the location of breeders in your area. 3. Call the breeders in your area to find out if they will have kittens in the near future or if cats are available now. 4. If the breeder has kittens available or they will soon be available, now is the time to qualify the breeder. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP—THIS IS IMPORTANT! Ask the questions on page 20 in “Is This a Responsible Breeder?” 5. Visit the breeders to meet them and see the facilities. 6. Ask to see appropriate paperwork and make sure everything is in order before putting a deposit down on a kitten or a cat.

Choosing a Cat

Kittens from reputable breeders cost the same as kittens from backyard breeders (that is, breeders who aren’t commercial but breed their cats to make a quick buck), pet stores, or commercial breeders. In many cases, a pet-quality registered kitten will actually cost less from a reputable breeder than another source. When you purchase a kitten from a reputable breeder, you purchase a quality kitten with a known history. The breeder offers you help and advice in training issues and takes an active interest in your pet. You won’t be on your own if you have difficulties with your cat. Because the breeder will not allow the kitten to leave before she is 12 weeks old, the kitten will be dewormed and vaccinated.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

20 BUT—and this is important—none of these sources screen breeders. I’ll repeat myself for clarity: CFA, ACFA, TICA, breeder referrals, magazines, and cat shows don’t screen breeders. You have to, and I’ve provided a checklist as well as a worksheet to walk you through the screening process. Don’t think for a moment that because the breeder is at a cat show or is referred by CFA or TICA or is listed in a magazine that they are automatically a reputable breeder. You may indeed meet a reputable breeder at a cat show (and you have a better chance at it, certainly), but don’t rely on it. Once you find a reputable breeder, it may be hard to pass their criteria. These breeders want to be sure that your home is as good as their own. They want to choose the right kitten for you. The reputable breeder will take the kitten back if there’s a problem. Reputable breeders guarantee the health of their cats and will refund money or offer a replacement if there is a problem.

Is This a Responsible Breeder? Breeder Interview Questions Do you belong to the national breed club or at least a local breed club? Responsible answer: Yes (and names clubs)

Do you show your breed in cat shows? Responsible answer: Yes (and names events)

How long have you been a breeder with this breed? Responsible answer: Varies, but a more established breeder is usually reputable. Backyard breeders (that is, those who don’t have the experience) are usually first- or second-time breeders.

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How many breeds do you show/breed? Responsible answer: One or two.

Do the kittens’ parents have show titles? Responsible answer: Yes and will show you what titles or will tell you what the cat is working toward.

How did you choose the mate? Responsible answer: I searched for the right male to breed to this female. I looked for a cat that would improve the health and type of my kittens.

Do you have photographs and information concerning the parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, uncles, aunts, and cousins of the kittens? Responsible answer: Yes and will show you the photos and paperwork. You should be able to meet the mother at least.

What health certifications do you have on both parents? Responsible answer: Varies, but cats should be clear of disease. The cats should be screened for FeLV and FIV and have proof from the veterinarian’s office.

Why did you breed these two cats? Responsible answer: To produce kittens that will improve the breed.

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

22 How old are the kittens’ parents? Responsible answer: One year or older.

Have the kittens been dewormed and fully vaccinated? Responsible answer: Yes and gives dates.

How old must the kitten be before I take him home? Responsible answer: 12 weeks old or older. No exceptions.

Do you have a contract? May I see it? Responsible answer: Yes and offers to show you the contract.

Do you guarantee your kittens and for what? Responsible answer: Yes. Should guarantee kitten is free from hereditary diseases found in that particular breed. Also guarantees the health of the kitten on leaving the cattery. Offers refund or replacement of kitten. Will require you to bring the kitten to the vet within a few days after you receive her.

Will you take back the cat under any circumstance? Responsible answer: Yes and shows you the guarantee in the contract.

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Will I have full ownership of the kitten? Responsible answer: Yes and shows you guarantee in the contract. Some breeders will only do co-ownership—avoid this!

What items will you provide at time of sale? Responsible answer: Information on raising and training your cat; the buyer’s contract; CFA, ACFA, or TICA papers; proof of the parents’ health and testing of any hereditary diseases; sample of the kitten’s food; record of vaccinations and deworming; vaccination schedule; pedigree.

Do you have references? Responsible answer: Yes. The breeder should be able to provide you with names and phone numbers of other members of their national or local club and people who have bought kittens who will vouch for this breeder. Be sure to talk to people who have owned cats for at least a few years to find out what the breeder is like to deal with.

Shelters and Rescues If you’re planning on getting a moggie, the first place you may think of looking is the local pound, an animal shelter, or an animal rescue. A large portion of the cats and kittens brought into shelters are moggies. However, you can sometimes find pedigreed cats there, too. Breeds such as Persians or Siamese may be found in rescues, although they are not as prevalent as moggies. There are rescues that specialize in a particular breed (you can find the rescues through www.cfa.org/purebred-rescue/index.html or through www.petfinder.org).

Choosing a Cat

Are these cats CFA, ACFA, or TICA registered (if pedigreed)? Responsible answer: Yes and shows you the certificates.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

24 How can you tell if a cat is pedigreed? In some cases, you may be able to find a certain breed. However, you may not be able to get the cat’s registration papers if you get the cat from a shelter or rescue. But if you go to a shelter or rescue, you probably don’t care if your cat has papers or not. In this case, whether your cat is pedigreed shouldn’t make a difference. Regardless of whether you go to a shelter or a rescue, your main concern should be how the animals are treated there. Quite often, small shelters and rescues are run on a shoestring and don’t have facilities available for all the animals present. Even so, animals should be housed alone or maybe with a few other animals, and they should be clean and well cared for. There should be no presence of diseased animals—all should appear healthy and energetic. This is very important for cats because they can fall prey to diseases for which there are no vaccinations or cures. Cats in shelters are normally very stressed and can contract upper respiratory infections. So, be very careful and look around. Cats with weepy eyes and snot dripping from their noses can be contagious to kittens around them, and you should probably go elsewhere to look for a cat. Any cat who appears sick is not a good candidate for adoption. Also, be very cautious about adopting a kitten who may have come in contact with that cat. There are two types of shelters—no-kill and kill shelters. The no-kill shelters do not euthanize animals except in cases of extreme illness or temperament. Because of this, they frequently turn down taking in new animals while they try to find homes for their stock of current cats. Depending on their policies, they may or may not have what are considered “unadoptable animals”—that is, cats who are too old or who may have a serious medical condition that would preclude them from being adopted. Kill shelters, as the term implies, put down pets after a certain amount of time. Depending on how busy a shelter is, this period could be anywhere from a day to a few weeks. One type of kill shelter is a municipal animal control shelter. These shelters are run by the local government and take in all animals, strays as well as owner-surrendered animals. There are all kinds of cats here—from the very young to the very old. Some may be diseased. Others may have temperament problems. Talk to the people who work in the facility to find out what kind of criteria they have when adopting out animals. Rescues are another place to look for cats. There are both moggie and pedigreed rescues. Volunteers through organizations such as a parent breed club typically run rescues. They are usually understaffed and overworked and need money and volunteers. A rescue is not necessarily one place, like a shelter, but may actually be several volunteers who foster cats in their homes. Adoption procedures vary greatly in many shelters and rescues. Most shelters and rescues require that you spay or neuter the cat or will do this for you before you bring the cat home. (Some states require spaying or neutering before you can adopt a cat.) Most screen

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As mentioned, usually you can find all age ranges at shelters and rescues, including some very nice adult cats. Generally, puppies and kittens are most popular, followed by young adolescent animals, adults, and finally, the older pets. Because kittens tend to be more popular than adult cats, consider taking an older cat if you’re looking simply to give a cat a second chance. Shelters and rescues usually offer adoptable animals—cats that appear to be healthy and well adjusted. Cats who are sick with an incurable disease, aggressive, or have other problems are usually put down. However, don’t assume that this is necessarily the case. If you look at a cat in a shelter or rescue, use the checklist below to get an idea of the background and behavior of a cat, how the cat is treated in the shelter or rescue, and, ultimately, whether the shelter is right for you. Sometimes, but not always, the shelter or rescue can tell you about the cat. If the cat was turned in for behavior or serious health problems, you should probably reconsider your choice.

Should You Adopt from This Shelter or Rescue? To avoid a possible heartache, go through this checklist to determine if this shelter or rescue is right for you. Are cats and kittens tested (or is a test available) for feline leukemia (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) before leaving the shelter?

Are the cats and kittens healthy looking, without signs of sickness (weepy eyes, sneezing, pot-bellies, lethargy)?

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Choosing a Cat

applicants to avoid having the cat returned to them or putting the cats in a situation that would be worse than being at the shelter or rescue. Some won’t allow cats to be adopted outside of a state or a specific region. Many charge a fee—anywhere from $20 to $100 or more, even for a moggie.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

26 How does the staff handle the cats and kittens? Are they treated kindly or roughly?

Does the shelter offer a health guarantee? (Not all do, so you can still adopt from this shelter.)

Do the shelter workers know the history, health, and temperament of the cats and kittens? Can they tell you about a particular animal?

Other observations

If some of these questions are answered negatively, should you get a cat from this shelter? Well, it really depends on what you’re looking for. If you’re looking to save a life, taking a cat out of these conditions may be the right thing to do. But as a firsttime cat owner, be aware that you can be in for heartache if there’s a problem.

Pet Shops People often think of pet shops when looking for cats, but this isn’t necessarily the best place to go. Pet shops usually buy from commercial breeders and occasionally from backyard breeders. They are unlikely to have kittens from reputable breeders because the reputable breeder will care where his or her kittens are placed. A pet shop will usually sell to whoever comes in with the right amount of money. If you buy from a pet shop, you may be supporting the commercial pet industry and are not likely to get the best pet for your money. However, some pet supply stores now are in partnership with local humane societies and rescues, offering adoptable animals to their clientele. These are perfectly acceptable places to look for a cat or a kitten. If you think you’ve found a reputable pet shop, ask the questions in the following checklist to determine if they have quality cats and kittens.

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Where do you get your kittens? (Most kittens should come from a local source.)

May I meet and visit the breeder? (You should be able to meet with the breeder to inspect his facilities. If the response is that he is out of town, be very wary; this breeder could instead be operating a kitten mill.)

How many kittens does the breeder produce each year? (This should be a small number—if it’s large, it’s very likely a kitten mill.)

What breeds does the breeder sell? (No more than one or two breeds should be sold.)

Do you offer health guarantees with a refund or replacement? (If so, what guarantees?)

Have parents been screened for hereditary diseases known to appear in the breed especially in Persian (PKB), Maine Coons, and Ragdolls? What about screening for FeLV and FIV? (Ask for proof.)

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Choosing a Cat

Questions to Ask a Pet Shop

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

28 When did the kittens arrive here? (Subtract the number of days since the kittens arrived from their current age—if it’s fewer than twelve weeks, the kittens left their mother too early).

What can you tell me about the ancestors of these kittens? (There should be some idea what the parents, grandparents, cousins, and siblings were like and if they had titles. The pet shop should be able to show you pictures of adult cats.)

If pedigreed, is the breeder a member of the national breed club? (They should be. Contact the national breed club and find out!)

If applicable, ask to see the pedigree. Do the parents of these kittens have TICA or CFA titles such as Champion or Grand Champion? Do the other cats in the pedigree have these titles? (While you may not care if your kitten’s parents have titles, it’s a sign that the kitten’s breeder is working to improve their lines and produce healthy kittens, not just to produce kittens.)

Do you have a contract? May I see it? (The pet shop should have a contract that stipulates the terms under which the cat is sold to you, including all guarantees.)

Why are these kittens being sold at a pet shop? (Most reputable breeders want to screen the buyers before purchasing. Reasons might include that the breeder is in partnership with the storeowner and will screen buyers once a potential buyer is found.)

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Sometimes you become a cat owner when you least expect it. Maybe a coworker or friend told you they don’t want their cat anymore or maybe you were on a walk and a cat followed you home. Maybe you saw a kid on a street corner giving away kittens. Whatever the reason, you now have a cat. Let’s look at each situation.

Want a Free Cat? One way people become cat owners is by getting one from a coworker or neighbor who decides that “it’s off to the pound if I don’t find a home for my cat.” If you’re a kind-hearted person, perhaps you took the cat against your better judgment. Or, perhaps you see an ad in the newspaper and decide to get a “free-to-good-home” cat. There are various reasons why owners give away their pets, but common generic reasons are often given because owners don’t want to go into a lengthy explanation. Allergies and moving are often offered as the cause, but these are excuses and do not explain the actual reasons why the pets are being given up. People seldom ask further questions upon hearing the word allergies. Often, people purchase kittens without understanding the true commitment required. These kitties grow into adolescent terrors without proper discipline—they yowl when they go into heat, they scratch furniture, and they pee on the bed. While a cat who has bad habits can be cured (many owners give up their cats because of bad habits), you should find out what they are and if you want to really deal with them. It may be tough to find out if the cat has bad habits, but you might try talking to the owner about the cat for a while. Owners who have cats with problems may reveal that they really don’t like the cat much, that they find the cat aloof and annoying, and suggest keeping the cat outside or make him an indoor-outdoor cat. If you suspect that the owner is giving up the cat because of behavior problems, you have to decide if this is something you’re willing to work with. Because the cat will be in a new situation, you may be lucky and never have to see those problems; however, you should be on the lookout for them and work to correct them if they arise. Other reasons for giving away or selling a cat include:

• • • •

Change of lifestyle/income Owner dies Moving overseas (although this isn’t really an excuse, some people sell or give away their pets when moving) Family pet had kittens

Choosing a Cat

When a Cat Comes to You

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Strays Occasionally, people become cat owners by picking up a stray. Strays may be a risky proposition, but many people have rescued a stray with success. In many instances, strays are “dumped cats”—that is, the owner was too afraid to take the cat to a shelter and instead decided to give the cat “the long car ride.” Sadly, these people drop off cats in the country or wilderness areas, thinking that someone will take them in or the cats will manage to fend for themselves. The truth is, this is the equivalent of dumping a 5-year-old child in the middle of nowhere and telling him to fend for himself. The prospect for survival is grim, at best. Not all strays are abandoned kitties. Indeed, some are lost cats looking for their owners. Others are cats whose owners have the mistaken notion that cats should run loose. This is why when you find a stray you should make a reasonable attempt to find the owner. Many papers offer free “found” ads so you can attempt to locate a cat’s owner. Be certain to check out the owner thoroughly because some people pose as owners to obtain cats for unsavory purposes. Have the person describe the cat to you to be sure—don’t describe the cat to the person. When you find a stray, the first thing you should do is check for any identification. Collar and tags and microchips are all possible. Tags are pretty obvious—the cat either has a collar on or she doesn’t. If the cat is long-haired, feel for a tag. Microchips can only be read with a scanner. Veterinarians and shelters may have scanners to check for chips; however, not all scanners can read all chips. Once you figure out what type of chip and obtain the scanned number, have the veterinarian or shelter contact the registry for information on the cat. Strays may have a multitude of health problems. Many have worms, fleas, mange, or other parasites and may be starving. Strays often mistrust humans because of the harm that has been done to them. They may have been shot at or had things thrown at them. They may be fearful and cringe if you try to touch them. The health problems such as parasites and malnutrition can be corrected. The emotional trauma may take some time to heal—if it ever does. But, strays can become happy members of your family with patience and love.

“Oops, Was She Pregnant?” Amazingly, many owners of intact female cats are surprised when their cats have kittens. Despite all the information available about spaying and neutering pets, many cat owners are simply oblivious and fail to do it. Females allowed outside become fair game to tomcats and feral cats (cats who were raised without human contact). A female cat who copulates will have kittens—the act of breeding actually causes her to ovulate! You can find some very adorable kittens from someone whose cat has had an “oops.” Your main concerns should be the health of the kittens (vaccinations) and their socialization skills. Remember, kittens shouldn’t leave their mom until 12 weeks or older, but some places don’t hang on to kittens that long. If you adopt a kitten from an unexpected litter, be sure to

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No matter where you adopt your cat, use this checklist to be sure you get the cat who’s best suited for you: □ □ □ □ □

Is the cat/kitten healthy? (shows no signs of discharge from nose, sneezing, diarrhea, and isn’t mewling in pain or lethargic) Is the cat/kitten interested in you? Is the cat/kitten nonaggressive and doesn’t bite or scratch? Does the cat/kitten play with you if you have a toy or other item? Barring interest from the cat, what does the shelter worker have to say about the kitten/cat?

have the kitten tested for FeLV. If you obtain a kitten at 8 to 10 weeks old, you’ll have to pay for all the vaccinations, FeLV testing, and altering.

Picking Out Your Cat The next step is choosing your cat or kitten. All family members, including children over 3 years old (younger children may hurt the cat or kitten), should go with you when choosing the cat to make sure she reacts well to the entire family. This is important because these are the people with whom your cat is going to interact on a daily basis. You’re not going to want a cat who hates children if you have any.

Choosing the Right Kitten Depending on where you go to find your kitten, you may or may not have much background to go on when you look for one. When it comes to shelters or rescues, you’ll have to ask the workers there whether the kittens have been played with and socialized and what the circumstances are surrounding their being given up for adoption. Ideally you shouldn’t take a kitten away from her mother before she is 12 weeks old. A kitten needs to spend time with her mother and siblings for socialization and to develop her own personality. If you take a kitten away from her mother much earlier, you run the risk of personality problems that will plague that cat throughout her entire life. If the kitten lost her mom early, some rescues will bottle-feed kittens. These kittens need to be socialized with other cats and people as much as possible to ensure they grow to become well-adjusted cats. First, consider the health of the kittens. Are they bright-eyed, eager, and alert? A visible third eyelid is often a sign of sickness. Are they clean and is their hair-coat shiny? They shouldn’t

Choosing a Cat

Adoption Checklist

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

32 be too fat or thin, nor should they have a potbelly, which is indicative of worms. They might be sleepy if they just woke from a nap, but they shouldn’t be sluggish or unresponsive. Avoid kittens that cry or act unhappy—there’s usually an underlying problem causing their behavior. When you visit a litter of kittens, kneel down and clap your hands. Some kittens may seem interested in you; others may ignore you. If they act wary, that’s okay, but if one or two take notice, those are kittens you may want to investigate further. Usually the kitten who is attentive is the kitten you want. Sometimes you’ll find a kitten with her paw all the way out reaching for you, with a “Pick me! Pick me!” look on her face. Pay very close attention to that cat. She has chosen you. That’s the best way to get a cat. If you see a kitten you’re interested in, separate the kitten from the rest of the litter and take a look at her. Hold her for a little bit and see if she’ll relax. If she does, try playing with her with a feather, a cat toy, or even a bit of yarn (NOTE: Never leave yarn with any kitten or cat. They can swallow it and choke.) Avoid kittens who immediately try to scratch or bite. (You don’t need an aggressive kitten from the get-go). If the kitten is playful and enjoys your company, this is most likely the one for you.

Choosing the Right Temperament in an Adult Cat Selecting an adult or adolescent cat is a little less of a mystery than choosing a kitten. If the cat is an adult, what you see is what you get. The cat will look how she’s going to look. Her personality is set, too—you’ll know if she’s going to work with you, and she’s likely to stay that way unless there’s an underlying health concern. The problem is that it’s hard to figure out if the cat’s personality is right, especially if the cat is in a high-stress environment like a shelter. If you’re visiting a shelter, you may have to talk to the shelter workers to find out which cats are really friendly and loving—and who would work in your household. If you can, see which cat is interested in you and if the cat is willing

Twice the Fun? Getting two kittens is a great idea if you’re away for several hours every day at work or school. Your kittens will keep themselves amused and out of trouble while you’re gone, whereas a single kitten will be very lonely. Of course, this increases the expense, but it’s a good idea if you have a busy family.

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You may have heard about cats from feral cat colonies. These cats are usually wild all their lives and have not been socialized properly with humans during crucial developmental periods. These cats will generally not make good pets because they have no desire to bond to humans; however, there are rescue feral groups who work to raise and tame feral kittens. You can find out more about them through Alley Cat Allies, at www.alleycat.org and Alley Cat Rescue at www.saveacat.org. There are also cats who have been dumped who have had some socialization with humans. These cats aren’t feral, although they might hang out with a feral colony. These cats may make good pets.

to relax and respond around you. Even if she doesn’t, listen to the shelter people if they tell you she’ll warm up to you. I did that with one kitty, and even though she was very nervous at first, she became a dynamite pet.

What You Now Know . . . Purchase a cat only from a reputable breeder or adopt from a shelter or a rescue. Pet shops, commercial breeders, and backyard breeders are not good places to purchase a cat. Choose a cat or kitten who is well socialized and free from disease. There are several cat breeds recognized by CFA, ACFA, and TICA with enough variety in looks and personalities to suit anyone.

Choosing a Cat

What about Feral Cats?

Chapter 3 What’s Inside . . . Learn where your new cat should stay. Learn what supplies are right for your cat. Learn how to choose the best veterinarian for your cat.

Preparing for Your Cat

N

ow that you have a plan for getting a cat, the next step is to prepare for your cat. In this chapter and the next, we discuss getting ready for the big day when you bring your new kitten or cat home. If you plan now, it won’t be so hectic later. You’ll be able to focus on adapting to your new pet and not on getting cat supplies or figuring out what veterinarian is right for you.

Indoor Cat or Indoor-Outdoor Cat? Cat owners often debate whether they want to have an indoor-only, an outdoor-only, or an indoor-outdoor cat. While many people are still of the opinion that it’s okay for their cats to roam freely outdoors, the truth is that cats are safer when they are indoors. Outside, a cat’s average life expectancy is about 8 years. Compare that to an indoor cat who usually lives 12 years or more with good care. An outdoor kitty can fall prey to coyotes and foxes (even in urban areas) and some have fallen prey to large raptors like hawks and eagles. They’re also at the mercy of dogs and unscrupulous people. Cars are the number one killer of cats. Even outdoor-savvy cats get hit; every year I see dozens of dead cats alongside the road, many with collars, because someone refused to keep the kitty inside where he would be safe. I remember as a kid seeing a good friend’s cat get run over by the school bus. It’s not something I’ll soon forget. There are other dangers lurking outside. Your kitty can become exposed to deadly cat diseases from other cats in the neighborhood including FeLV, FIP, and FIV, for which there is no cure.

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

36 Many proponents for having an indoor-outdoor cat say they like not needing a litter box and being able to have their cats go outside (usually in the neighbor’s garden or the kid’s sandbox—think about it!). Nowadays there are many good odor-destroying litters that can virtually eliminate cat odor and scooping daily will, of course, reduce odors substantially. Other advocates of outside cats feel it is cruel to keep a kitty locked up inside his entire life. The truth is that it’s more cruel to have a cat fall victim to a predator or hole up someplace after being hit by a car to die hurt and alone. Should a cat ever go outside? Actually, they can with a little creativity and a lot of supervision. There are cat harnesses for walking, and there are cat fences and tunnels or enclosures that allow your kitty to safely experience the outdoors. (Do not rely on standard fences—cats can leap up and over normal fencing that would dissuade a dog.)

Where Should Your Cat Stay? So, your cat needs to be inside the house, but where? Can you specify areas in your house where your cat can go and where he can’t? Maybe. Unless you have a room where you can close the door, it’s very hard to keep a cat from going where you don’t want him to go. Some people’s homes have an open floor plan, which makes this nearly impossible. You can pretty much expect that your cat will go wherever he wants, unless you teach boundary training (more on this in chapter 6).

Creating a Safe Place Some pet owners cordon off one room when they first get their kitten not only to minimize the accidents and destructiveness but also to create a safe place for their cat. Then, as their cat becomes more comfortable with her surroundings, they allow the cat in other parts of the house. Because cats are territorial, the safe place enables them to establish their territory and feel secure. Most people choose rooms with tile or other flooring that is easy to clean, especially if the kitten forgets where the litter box is. If you don’t have a room like that, you’ll have to consider a carpeted area and expect to clean up there. Other features of the safe room include:

• • • • • • •

Electrical and blind cords hidden or removed entirely. Nothing that can fall on a kitten or can injure him. Nothing breakable that a kitten can knock off a table. No knick-knacks or craft items. Minimal furniture or furniture you don’t mind being scratched. Childproof cabinet latches and outlet plug covers. No tight places for a kitten or cat to hide or get trapped in.

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In most cases, a cat fence needs to attach to a permanent fence. Most cat fences work by making a fence look flimsy when it’s not. Cats don’t like things that look too weak to support their weight. However, be aware that cat fencing will not keep your kitties safe from determined predators like coyotes, owls, and raptors. The following list is for information only. It is not an endorsement of products.

• • • •

Cat Fence-in: www.catfencein.com Affordable Cat Fence: www.catfence.com Purrfect Cat Fence: www.purrfectfence.com Cat Enclosure Kit: www.cdpets.com/enclosure.html

When you choose where your cat can go, be sure these are places where your family often hangs out together. Your cat should be part of your family, too. Another consideration is where your cat will sleep. You will bond much closer with your cat if you have your cat sleep in your bedroom. Unless someone is allergic to cats, it’s okay for your cat or kitten to snuggle up with someone as long as that person isn’t a fitful sleeper and can accidentally roll over on the kitten and maybe hurt him. If you have a toddler or a baby, it’s best to keep the cat or kitten away from him so neither accidentally hurts the other.

Stocking Up on Cat Supplies When it comes to cat supplies, you have quite a choice. In 2004, pet owners spent an estimated $34.3 billion on pet supplies, according to APPMA’s (American Pet Product Manufacturer’s Association) 2003-2004 National Pet Owner’s Survey. That’s a lot of fuzzy mice! You may think that buying things for your cat is a simple enough task, but there’s a lot of junk in this market as well as useful items.

Where to Buy The way to avoid the hype and overpaying for items is to purchase your cat’s supplies before you bring her home so that you won’t be scrambling to buy things all at once. Last-minute purchases usually result in poor quality and high prices. If you have a few weeks to plan, you may be able to save some money by purchasing your pet equipment from a catalog or an Internet site. Many good mail-order pet supply companies provide inexpensive, reliable service—but be wary of the shipping charges! It won’t help you much if the dollars you save are eaten up by shipping and handling. Large pet supply stores sometimes offer discounted items, but sometimes the item is more expensive than those online. Shop around if you can.

Preparing for Your Cat

Cat Fence and Enclosure Manufacturers

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Handy Tip I’ve seen plenty of pets without tags or with tags that were totally illegible. Don’t become one of those heartbroken owners who won’t get their cats returned because they lack proper tags. Twice a year look at your cat’s tags (perhaps when you change your clocks for the start of daylight savings time; standard time people in Arizona will have to think of another reminder!). If they’re worn, illegible, or look like they’re ready to fall off, get new ones made. Also, check the information on them. Addresses and phone numbers change, and many people forget to update their cats’ ID tags. You should also consider having a permanent form of ID on your cat. See chapter 12 for more information.

The downside, of course, is if you need the equipment now or within a few days. Some mailorder or Internet companies may ship next day at a higher cost, often canceling the savings. You also cannot examine the product closely to determine if it is really what you want.

What to Buy Choosing what to buy might be a little daunting. Although cat supplies still don’t outnumber dog supplies in stores, they’re coming pretty close. You can find a lot of good supplies for cats, but you can find a lot of junk, too. The best way to judge the quality of an item is to look at it and ask yourself if it could be chewed apart by your cat. The cost of cat items is less expensive than those of dog supplies, but it really doesn’t take long before you will have spent a wad of money. Case in point, when I adopted Hailey, my tortoiseshell, I walked out with a $60 cat and $140 in cat supplies. While the money went to a good cause (helping other less fortunate kitties at the shelter), I quickly learned that there is no such thing as a cheap cat. Let’s look at the supplies you really need.

For Your Home You’ll need some supplies that will go into your home. These include the following items:

• •

Cat bed: Your cat will need a comfy bed of her own. Most cats love to curl up and snooze in something warm and inviting. Choosing a comfy bed or cuddler may just be the cat’s meow, or she may decide your bed is more inviting. Scratching post: Cats need to scratch—it’s inherent in them. If you don’t provide a scratching post, your cat will scratch something inappropriate. Provide him with a scratching post or, preferably, several in strategic places throughout the house. There

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Preparing for Your Cat

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are a number of different types of scratching posts, including ones made of sisal fibers, cardboard, or other scratchable material as well as vertical or flat posts. Try getting a few different kinds. Many cats like to really stretch out when they scratch, so provide some long, vertical scratching posts. You can attract your cat to the scratching post by sprinkling a bit of catnip on it. If the post is too short or flimsy, you’re wasting your money. It needs to be stable when the cat puts all his weight onto it. Cardboard scratching pads are an inexpensive but effective alternative to a cat tree, and you can afford to place them in different areas. Litter box: The litter box is very important for your cat, too. There are several types of litter boxes, from plain plastic pans to automatic cleaning litter boxes that are quite expensive. There are pluses and minuses to each of these. (Chapter 9 covers litter box training in great detail.) Let’s look at your choices: • Open litter boxes: These are cheap and easy for your cat to use. They don’t contain odors or provide privacy. Cats can kick litter out while scratching. $5 to $10. • Covered litter boxes: These boxes are still pretty cheap and provide privacy and some odor control for the litter. However, smells may build up rapidly in these litter boxes, so your cat may stop using them. They will contain litter when your cat scratches in her litter box. Downsides are that big cats may feel cramped and may not use them. $10 to $20. • Nonautomatic self-cleaning litter boxes: These boxes clean when you flip them over and allow the litter to sift out. (You must use clumping litter.) Like the covered litter boxes, these provide privacy and some odor control. Most of them can make big cats feel cramped. $30 to $50. • Automatic self-cleaning litter boxes: These boxes have sensors that detect when a cat uses them. You must use clumping cat litter. After a certain amount of time, the litter box drops the clumps into a receptacle. These are not good for kittens younger than six months and may surprise and scare adult cats who may not necessarily like their litter box becoming “alive” after a few minutes. They’re pricey, too. $99 to $250. Litter: What’s a litter box without litter? Your cat will need litter in order to use the litter box (more on litter in chapter 9). Litters come in various types: • Traditional or nonclumping clay litter: The cheapest and most available, clay litter comes both scented and unscented. It requires that you scoop the litter every day and clean the litter box twice a week. It can be dusty and cause respiratory problems. A twenty-pound bag costs under $5. • Clumping clay litter: This is a bit more expensive than regular clay litter but clumps when liquid such as cat urine comes in contact with it. All you have to do is scoop the solid stuff out daily and add more litter. Not recommended for use with young kittens. Once a month, you need to change the entire litter and clean the litter box. A twenty-pound bag costs $10 to $15.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

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Crystal litter (silica crystals or gel): This litter looks more like plastic pellets than something a cat would use. However, it is dust-free and works remarkably well at neutralizing cat odors. It requires you to scoop the solid stuff out daily and add more litter if needed. Once a month, you need to change the entire litter and clean the litter box. It’s very pricey at $15 to $20 for eight pounds. • Wheat or corn litter: This litter is biodegradable and clumping, thus neutralizing odor very effectively. It has little or no dust. A bonus is that it’s completely flushable. Crumbled corn is the only alternative litter that can be used in an automatic litter pan. It’s expensive at $25 or more for about twenty pounds. • Paper or wood pellet litter: This litter is also biodegradable and is made from recycled newspaper. It’s pretty good at controlling urine odors, but many cats don’t like the larger size pieces. Scoop daily and clean the box once a week. $5 to $10 buys twenty pounds. Litter scoop: To clean the litter box, you’ll need a litter scoop. Most are plastic with sieves and work fine to sift the litter. (Yes, you can use a slotted kitchen strainer or spoon, but they don’t work as well and are actually more expensive). Expect to pay $1 to $3 for one. Choose a scoop with larger holes if you use silica gel litter or litter with large pellets. Enzymatic cleaner: You’ll need something to clean up the accidents when they do occur. Enzymatic cleaners made for pet messes are designed to break down the urine and feces into more basic components thereby eliminating the smell. You still have to clean up after your cat, but the smell won’t linger and won’t attract your cat back to the spot. (This may not be a priority unless the cat starts peeing outside the box.) Cat tree: The cat tree is kind of an activity center for your cat. Depending on your budget and cat, you can have a very simple or elaborate cat tree—they cost anywhere from under $50 to $200 or more. You can get them with your choice of carpet and colors, if you’re looking for something that fits your décor. At the low end, a cat tree may have a just a platform or scratching post. A bigger tree may have several “branches,” hidey-holes, scratching posts, built-in toys, and platforms. A cheap alternative is the cardboard scratching pad that many cats enjoy with a little catnip sprinkled on it. Can your cat do without it? I’d say pawsitively not! Travel carrier: Although not necessary for home use, an important item you must have for your kitty is a travel carrier. These are good for car trips (such as those to the dreaded vet!) and for any time you must restrain your kitty. There are several types of travel carriers—some are even made of soft plastic or canvas and act like a travel bag, but if your kitty is especially destructive, you may need a plastic travel carrier similar to those used for airline travel. I’ve had a cat chew a hole though a cardboard carrier, so be forewarned. Carriers typically cost $10 to $30. Catnip: You may not think of catnip as a particularly essential item, but you will when you start training your kitty to accept certain things like scratching posts. Adult cats are naturally attracted to catnip. Use catnip to encourage your kitty to scratch appropriate scratching posts.

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Catnip has a lot of folklore surrounding it. Many cats love catnip and either go crazy over it or may actually fall asleep from it. However, not all cats are affected by catnip. Kittens younger than 6 months, for example, don’t react to catnip, and some adult cats don’t have the genes that enable them to enjoy it. Contrary to folklore, catnip isn’t addictive, nor is it harmful. Your cat will enjoy a fresh bit of catnip, but don’t inundate him—he can build up a tolerance to it. If your kitty once loved catnip and doesn’t anymore, try hiding the toys with catnip for a few weeks; then reintroduce them.

Your Kitty’s Wardrobe While your kitty probably thinks her coat is the cat’s meow, she needs some accessories to complete her wardrobe. These include:

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Breakaway collar: This is an important piece of your kitty’s wardrobe in case she accidentally gets out. She needs to wear a collar made especially for cats that will detach if it sticks on something (hence the word breakaway) to prevent her from choking. Some of these come with a bell to alert birds, but if your kitty is an indoor cat, that shouldn’t be an issue. One type of breakaway collar that I like has a patented yin-yang clasp that pops open if your cat gets it caught and twists in the collar, thus not damaging the collar and still keeping your kitty safe. A collar should fit snugly, allowing you to put two fingers between the collar and your cat’s neck. Be careful not to buy a stretchy elastic collar because your cat can still strangle himself with it. Lastly, never put a dog collar on a cat. ID tags: You need to get a tag for your cat and put it on her collar for identification if she should ever get lost. Most are too small for an address but you can certainly have a name and phone number on it. There’s no excuse for not having up-to-date tags, ever. You can buy tags through Internet supply stores, mail-order, your veterinarian, and many major pet supply retailers. Some large chains have engraving machines to make tags right there while you shop for your cat. Harness and leash: If you’re planning on forays outside with kitty by your side, do this with a fashionable cat harness (be sure it is made specifically for a cat and small enough, but comfortable, so she can’t slip out) and a leash. Choose a simple nylon leash long enough so your kitty can enjoy walking about or have a retractable lead (such as a Flexi-lead) that will enable your kitty to explore while you stand nearby.

Preparing for Your Cat

Is Catnip Addictive?

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Food Items The next thing to consider is what your kitten or cat will be eating. She’ll need various yummy items and containers to hold her food. These include:

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Food and water bowls: These don’t have to be fancy, but you should buy bowls that won’t scratch and that can be easily cleaned. You can purchase cheap plastic bowls, but those may trap bacteria in scratches and may actually cause acne or blisterlike lumps around a cat’s mouth (switching to ceramic or stainless steel bowls usually cures it). If you choose ceramic bowls be sure that the glaze isn’t lead-based—lead is as toxic to cats as it is to humans. Cats like flatter dishes than dogs because they don’t like to bump their sensitive whiskers against the side of the bowl, so look into getting a flatter dish to put your kitty’s vittles in. Premium cat or kitten food: You’ll also need to purchase cat or kitten food for your kitty. While the breeder or shelter may provide a sample of the food, you’ll want to have enough on hand for the next several days. You should purchase a premium food made for your cat’s age (more on selecting cat food in chapter 7). Kitty treats: Technically, treats aren’t really required for your kitty; however, we all love to give our cat a healthful treat once in a while. Lean meats such as cooked turkey or chicken are okay (without bones!). I’ve known plenty of cats who love a product called Kitty Kavier, which is bonito (fish) flakes. You can try other commercial treats, too. While cute shapes appeal to us, be sure to get healthful treats that your cat likes. Treats that don’t have added colors and have only natural preservatives are best.

Grooming Items You’ll need to get items to groom your cat. These don’t have to be fancy, but the better made the item is, the more likely it’s going to last. The necessary grooming items include:

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Shampoo and conditioner: Bathing a cat? You probably won’t do it often, but in case you have to it’s a good idea to get shampoo and conditioner made for cats. While you can occasionally use human shampoo in a pinch, the shampoo and conditioners that are made for cats are pH balanced for their skin and coat. If you bathe your cat frequently, cat shampoos and conditioners will keep her skin and coat healthy, not dry or greasy. Brush: Depending on your cat’s coat, you’ll need to get either a slicker or soft brush made for cats. A slicker brush has many thin wire “bristles” and looks a little like a pincushion. These brushes work for long-haired and medium-haired cats. The thicker the coat, the larger and longer-bristled you want the slicker brush so that it collects more hair. Soft slicker brushes are preferable for cats with short coats and for those cats with super-sensitive skin. Flea comb: Unless you live in a flea-free area (they do exist and are the best-kept secrets of the universe!), you’ll need a way to comb out those pests. Flea combs are combs with very fine teeth that are made to catch fleas. They’re great for combing the face, too. Comb: If you have a long-haired cat, you’ll need a standard cat comb, too. Most are metal with short teeth that are about one-half to three-quarters of an inch long. Choose a comb with teeth long enough to handle the length of your cat’s coat.

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Kitty bed, bedding material, or cuddler Scratching post Litter box Litter Litter scoop Enzymatic cleaner for accidents Cat tree Travel carrier Catnip Breakaway collar ID Tags with your name, address, and phone number Harness and leash Food and water bowls Premium cat or kitten food Kitty treats Various toys Shampoo and conditioner made for cats Slicker brush or soft brush, depending on your cat’s coat Flea comb Comb for long-haired cats Nail clippers Toothbrush and toothpaste made for cats

Nail clippers: Cat claw nail clippers use a scissors action to snip the claws. They usually require sharpening (groomers can do this for you) or purchasing a new one every few years as they get dull. Toothbrush and toothpaste: Lastly, you need a toothbrush and toothpaste for cats. (Human toothpaste is poisonous to cats—do not use it!) Toothpaste comes in a variety of kitty-pleasing flavors like chicken and malt.

Toys No matter how optional you think toys are, I’ll guarantee your cat thinks they’re mighty important. Cats love to play with, cuddle, chase, attack, try to kill, sometimes carry around, and have a great time with toys. The problem is there is no such thing as a totally indestructible plaything. Look for items that don’t have small sewn-on parts like eyes or bells, which can present a choking or air-blocking hazard. Always supervise string toys. In this section, I give some toy ideas that you and your cat will both enjoy.

Preparing for Your Cat

Cat Supply Checklist

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Fishing Toys One toy my cat Hailey gives two paws up on is a simple “fishing” toy which has a feather, fur mouse, or some other fun thing on the end of the line. This is a great interactive toy for you and your cat. If you play it right, you can have your cat dancing and chasing the feather throughout the house. Don’t leave it out unattended as the fishing line could pose a strangulation or choking hazard or cause life-threatening internal injuries. This toy usually costs under $10.

Catnip-filled Toys Many adult cats love catnip toys, but not every kitty is affected by this magical plant. Nevertheless, you should have some catnip toys on hand. Most are made of fabric. Remove any bells, plastic pieces, or strings that your kitty could chew off and swallow. These toys are usually only $1 to $5 a piece.

Teaser Toys Like the fishing toys, these are great interactive toys. They have feathers, brightly colored Mylar, or some other sparkly item attached to the end of a plastic wand. They require you to interact with your kitty and play with her, thus “teasing” her with the toy. You can really exercise your kitty with these. They cost $5 and under.

Fur and Mouse Toys Hailey really loves her mouse toys. (They’re more interesting if you let them sit in a container of catnip.) Some cats love them and some couldn’t care less. If they have plastic eyes and nose, remove the pegs as they can be swallowed. Hailey loves to bat them under doors.

Puzzle Toys These are relatively new toys for pets. The idea is that you “hide” food in the puzzle toy and your cat bumps and rolls it to get the treats out. Of course, this only works if your cat is truly food motivated and is willing to work for it. Otherwise, you’re likely to have your cat look at you like you are an idiot and wait for you to free the treats. In other words, it may not work with all cats. Treat balls won’t work if you free feed your cat and may not work even if you don’t.

Other Toys There are a variety of toys made for cats. Some are balls—either plastic, foam, or Mylar—that are great fun to chase around. Other kitty toys include stuffed animals with pouches for catnip. Still others are mechanized and try to make movements that your cat will find interesting. Not all cats will respond to different toys in the same way. Some toys that I think Hailey would love—and that have received rave reviews from other cat owners—she couldn’t care less for. Other toys, she finds interesting. Expect to waste some money on toys that your cat just won’t use. That’s part of the joy of learning about your cat, isn’t it?

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The most important person in your cat’s life (after you) should be his veterinarian. It only makes sense that you find the right vet for your cat. Your cat’s vet can offer guidance on how to care for your cat and what to do when he’s sick. When you look for a vet, remember that he or she should be compatible with you. This may sound strange, but whether or not you get along with your vet will affect whether you’re willing to follow his or her directions. Because there are a lot of vets to choose from, you can afford to be a bit picky. Although most vets offer similar services, there are differences. For example, some vets offer mobile services (they come to you), and others offer emergency services, boarding, grooming, or other specialized care. When looking for a vet, decide what services you’re looking for. Price shouldn’t be the only consideration.

Veterinary Facilities Veterinarians work at a variety of facilities. These include:

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All-cat clinics: These clinics meet the increasing demand of cat owners looking for a veterinarian who specializes in cats. Animal hospitals: These hospitals usually employ a large number of vets and may have specialists. Some have their own testing facilities that a smaller clinic can’t afford. They may handle complex surgeries and emergencies that can’t be treated anywhere else. Veterinary clinics: Vet clinics may have as few as one or as many as five or more vets. These clinics have office hours and may or may not handle emergencies. Emergency clinics: These are for emergencies only. They usually handle after-hour calls and tend to be expensive. Low-cost clinics: A relatively new type of vet clinic, the purpose of these is to provide routine services (vaccinations, heartworm tests, spay/neuters) at lower costs. The volume of patients they handle makes up for lower prices. They generally don’t have the facilities to handle emergencies or complex diagnoses. Mobile clinics: Usually offering limited services, most mobile clinics are associated with an animal hospital or a veterinary clinic. They offer convenience to pet owners. University clinics: These clinics are usually state-of-the-art when it comes to treating pets with unusual conditions or serious diseases such as cancer.

Preparing for Your Cat

Choosing a Veterinarian

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Locating the Vet Finding the best kitty doc in your neighborhood might be just a call away. Ask your cat-owning friends and neighbors who they use as a vet. A glowing recommendation is worth its weight in gold. Good vets don’t need to advertise—most get their clients through word-of-mouth. But what if you can’t get any good recommendations? You can contact your cat’s breeder (if there is one) to see if she has suggestions (she may know other breeders in your area who have recommendations). Sometimes the shelter or rescue knows of veterinary practitioners in your area who specialize in cats. You might also ask groomers in your area. If you’re stuck, you can contact the American Animal Hospital Association for a list of vets in your area. Of course, you can always look through the yellow pages. Once you have a list of vets, call them and ask the questions I’ve provided here. These questions will help narrow down your choices for a veterinarian. There are no right or wrong answers to these questions. Some may be more important to you than others.

Finding a Vet: Interview Questions Do you own cats? Are you used to handling cats?

What is the cost for vaccinations, office visits, and other routine services?

What are the clinic’s hours? Do you offer after-hours services?

Do you handle emergencies or are you affiliated with a clinic that does? Are the vets on-call and do they have on-call pagers? (This is important if your cat becomes sick after hours.)

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Do you offer an on-site groomer and boarding? Does the groomer do cats? (Having a groomer or boarding facility at the veterinary clinic means that your vet is likely to be the one the groomer or kennel takes your cat to if there is a problem. It’s also a matter of convenience.)

Do you offer a multipet discount?

Do you take pet insurance? (Some vets take pet insurance; others require that you file your own claims. Check with the insurance company.)

Do you make house calls? Under what circumstances? (House calls are important for people with several pets or for pets who are very old or stressed by visiting the vet’s office.)

How many cats do you see? (A vet who is very familiar with your breed is apt to know and recognize certain conditions your cat may be experiencing due to genetic or congenital problems.)

Preparing for Your Cat

Do any of the vets here specialize in a particular area such as allergies, neurology, or holistic treatments? (Some people like to have a specialist on hand if a problem arises. Many veterinarians also consider alternative therapies when conventional methods don’t work. It’s nice to have options available.)

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The AAHA You can find the American Animal Hospital Association online at www.aahanet.org or contact them at P.O. Box 150899, Denver, Colorado, USA 80215-0899, (303) 986-2800.

The staff at the clinic should be courteous and willing to answer your questions. Once you’ve reduced your list of possible vets to a few choices, call them and schedule an appointment to visit each facility. Don’t drop by unannounced—you may show up during a busy time when the staff may not have a chance to talk with you. When you do visit, ask for a tour. The clinic should be clean and the staff should be friendly and helpful. If you have a chance to talk with the vet, do so. Find out what the vet’s training is and if he is familiar with conditions common to cats. If you’re interested in holistic medicine, find out if he uses holistic therapies or strictly uses conventional medicine. You should have a good feeling about the veterinarian, staff, and the clinic before bringing your cat there. Usually the final test is to bring your cat for his first appointment. While some cats won’t get along with any vet, the vet and staff should have a gentle and caring manner toward your cat when you bring him in.

Protecting Your Cat’s Health Veterinary costs can be expensive, especially in the first year of your cat’s life. However, you must care for your cat with routine medical exams, vaccinations, and dewormings or risk having a sick cat or worse. Remember, the purchase price of a cat doesn’t include health care or food. Even on the low end, that’s a fair amount of money. Luckily, there is pet health insurance, and it’s available for your cat. It can help with some of the expenses incurred due to veterinary care. Some insurance plans cover only major medical expenses, while others encompass routine health care. Some pet health insurance companies are listed here for information only—this is not an endorsement. Pet Assure 238 Second St. Lakewood, NJ 08701 1-888-789-PETS (7387) E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.petassure.com

PetCare Insurance Programs P.O. Box 8575 Rolling Meadows, IL 60008-8575 1-866-275-PETS (7387) E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.petcareinsurance.com/us

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Petshealth Insurance Agency P.O. Box 2847 Canton, OH 44720 1-800-807-6724 Website: www.petshealthplan.com

Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) P.O. Box 2344 Brea, CA 92822-2344 1-800-USA-PETS Website: www.petinsurance.com

While price of pet health insurance is important, it’s also essential to know that the insurance comes from a reputable source, has been around for a long time, and won’t disappear tomorrow. Read the policy information carefully—some insurance covers only catastrophic injuries or diseases (like a major medical) and some are like an HMO or PPO. Obviously the more routine services that are covered, the more expensive the policy is likely to be. When checking out the insurance, be sure to get the AM Best rating (www.ambest.com).This tells you how good the insurance is and the reliability of the underwriter. Most experts recommend an A+ or A++rating (the higher the rating, the more confidence you should have in the insurance). Most pet health insurance plans won’t cover preexisting conditions, elective surgery, or hereditary diseases. Many have a cap on diseases such as cancer. Most insurance becomes more expensive over time, so it’s best to buy it when your cat is a kitten. Usually the owner must pay for a necessary procedure and then get reimbursed by the health insurance. Is it a good value? It depends largely on if you need to use it. Many pet owners who would normally have to put their pets down because of an expensive illness have the option of treating the disease instead.

What You Now Know . . . Your cat should be an indoor-only pet. Never allow your cat to go outside unsupervised. If you can, take your time to purchase cat supplies and buy online or through catalogs. You can save money that way. Choose a veterinarian whom you’ll respect and who has services you and your cat require. Pet health insurance can help with large veterinary bills.

Preparing for Your Cat

Pet Plan Insurance (Canada) 777 Portage Ave. Winnipeg, MB R3G 0N3 CANADA 1-905-279-7190 1-800-268-1169 Website: www.petplan.com

Chapter 4 What’s Inside . . . Learn what things cats are likely to get into. Learn how to cat-proof your home. Learn to think of cat-proofing in three dimensions.

Cat-Proofing

B

efore you bring your cat or kitten home, you’ll need to make your home safe for him. It’s a lot like childproofing for a toddler, except now you must look upward as well and remember you have a kid with teeth who will taste and chew just about anything and everything. Kittens and cats are inquisitive little critters. Like children, it’s in the very nature of your kitten to explore. Unfortunately, kittens aren’t very big and can get into spaces a toddler can’t even dream of going. What’s more, they use their mouths and tiny paws to explore, picking up everything. Of course, anything that is picked up gets chewed and swallowed. Consequently, if you have a cluttered home or lots of knickknacks, you’re going to have to do some cleaning and rearranging. What is daunting about a cat or a kitten is that you must think in three dimensions when kitty-proofing. With toddlers, you know that after a certain height, you’re safe. Not so with kittens! Look around for anything that might be tempting. Things with strings or tassels, glittery knickknacks, and objects cats can get to and play with are all prime targets. Electrical and curtain cords are also very enticing—and dangerous. Hide them or put them out of reach of inquisitive mouths. Even if you adopt an older cat instead of a kitten, you don’t know her habits or what she might get into so you need to cat-proof all areas she is likely to get into.

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Look Up! Your cat or kitten may surprise you with his aerobatics. Cats may not be able to leap tall buildings with a single bound, but some days you may think they can. Think in three dimensions when you’re cat-proofing your home. Looking up is very important because your kitty may figure out a way to get there.

House Checklist When you look at your house, look in areas that may present the most hazards such as the kitchen and bathroom. Anything that has enticing items that can be knocked to the floor or chewed may be a danger. When using the checklists in this section, fill in the blanks to include your own list of hazards that might be unique to your situation. For example, in high-rise apartments and areas with balconies, your kitty may enjoy being outside but she could slip and fall. Here is a partial list of items to look for: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Alcohol—very poisonous to cats Bathroom cleaners, shower cleaners, and most household cleaners Lit candles Chocolate—extremely toxic to cats. Dark chocolate is more poisonous than milk chocolate. (It’s true! My cat likes to try to eat chocolate!) Dental floss—can become lodged in throat or intestine Electrical cords Garbage pails Glass knickknacks Grapes and raisins (toxic to cats) Houseplants Irons and ironing boards Kitchen knives Medications, including ibuprofen, acetaminophen, aspirin, and vitamins Onions—can cause anemia Pennies—zinc content can cause “penny poisoning.” Plates and glasses—can be knocked over Potpourri Sewing needles, thread, craft kits Suntan lotion

53 Toothpaste Liquid potpourri—causes burns Balconies and high decks (should be closed off and secure)

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Kitchen Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Fit cabinets containing cleaners with childproof latches. Stow cleaners in cabinets with latches. Keep food off counters and put in either a pantry with a door or in the refrigerator. Store knives and cutlery in drawers. Keep trash stowed behind a locked door. Stow plates and glasses in cabinets. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Move potpourri, especially the liquid kind, out of reach. Move kitchen plants out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be knocked down by a cat. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Cat-Proofing

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Bathroom Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Keep toothpaste and all medicine in a cabinet out of your cat’s reach. Remove automatic toilet cleaners that cause the water to turn blue. Keep toilet lid closed. Stow cleaners in cabinets with latches. Stow trash basket in a cabinet. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down by a cat. Move potpourri, especially liquid type, out of reach. Move soaps out of reach. Move dental floss out of reach. Floss can become lodged in throat or intestine. Move bathroom plants out of reach. Store suntan lotion, skin lotion, scented creams, makeup, perfume, aftershave, etc. in a childproof cabinet. □ Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped. □

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Living Room Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Keep all houseplants off the floor and out of reach. Move knickknacks from coffee table and places a curious cat can reach. Keep cleaners in cabinets with latches. Stow trash in a cabinet or behind a locked door. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down by a cat. Move potpourri, especially liquid kind, out of reach. Move lit candles out of reach.

55 Add extra screens around fireplace or woodstove. Remove ash bucket for stove or fireplace. It can still be hot with embers that can burn a cat. Remove crafts from reach and store in cabinets. Stow all cords to computer, stereo, game-boxes, etc. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Keep items such as books, baskets, toys, and houseplants off the floor and out of reach. Move knickknacks from tables where a curious cat can knock them over. Move jewelry to a closed drawer. Keep trash stowed in a cabinet or a closet. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down onto a cat. Move liquid potpourri out of reach. Move lit candles out of reach. Stow all cords to computer, stereo, game boxes, etc. Move books, CDs, VCR tapes, and other items out of reach. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Dining Room Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Keep items such as books, baskets, toys, and houseplants off the floor and out of reach. Remove knickknacks from tables where a curious cat can knock them over and stow them in a cabinet. Keep cleaners stowed in cabinets with latches. Stow trash in a cabinet or behind a locked door. Keep air fresheners out of reach. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down onto a cat. Move potpourri, especially liquid type, out of reach. Move lit candles out of reach. Remove centerpiece. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Office Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Remove houseplants off the floor and out of reach. Move knickknacks from tables where a curious cat can knock them over and stow them in a cabinet. Store cleaners in cabinets with latches. Stow trash in a cabinet or behind a locked door. Keep air fresheners out of reach. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down onto a cat. Move potpourri, especially liquid type, out of reach. Move lit candles out of reach.

57 Put away the paper shredder and keep it unplugged. Put away small items like coins, paper clips, thumbtacks, staples, etc. Remove craft kits, sewing needles, thread, and games from reach. Stow all cords to computer, stereo, etc. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Move houseplants off floor and out of reach. Move knickknacks from tables where a curious cat can knock them over. Store trash in a cabinet or a closet. Keep air fresheners out of reach. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down onto a cat. Store jewelry in a dresser drawer. Put away small toys such as action figures, matchbox cars, etc. (anything that may be chewed up and swallowed). □ Remove crafts and sewing kits from reach. □ Stow all cords to computer, stereo, game boxes, etc. □ Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped. □

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Dryer Hazards The dryer presents a very dangerous hazard to cats. Cats love the feeling of a warm place with clothing, so the inside of a dryer is very enticing. If a person doesn’t know that a cat is in the dryer, it could spell disaster when the dryer is started. Always keep the cat away from the washer and dryer and keep the doors closed on all major appliances.

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Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Keep cleaners and laundry detergent in cabinets with latches. Stow trash in a cabinet or behind a locked door. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Keep window blind cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down by a cat. Move liquid potpourri out of reach. Keep iron unplugged and put away. Fold up ironing board and store in a closet. Put up the ironing table. Keep dryer and washer doors closed at all times. Check the dryer every time before turning it on, pounding on the clothes with your hands. □ Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped. □

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Fit cabinets with childproof latches. Remove nails, nuts, screws, and other items. Remove houseplants. Keep insulation covered up completely by drywall. Keep all sharp tools in locked cabinets. Remove rat and mouse poison. Place rat and mousetraps in places inaccessible to your cat. Secure craft kits, yarns, needles, thread, and other items in storage containers. Stow cleaners in cabinets with latches. Stow trash in a cabinet or behind a locked door. Cap electrical outlets with childproof covers. Keep electrical cords out of reach. Remove anything that can fall down or be pulled down by a cat. Move potpourri, especially liquid kind, out of reach. Block off fans and crawlspaces. Remove paint, turpentine, and other poisons. Block off small spaces so a cat or kitten can’t get trapped.

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Numbers to Tape to Your Phone You should always have the following phone numbers taped to your phone or programmed into the speed dialer:

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Veterinarian Emergency veterinary clinic (for off hours) Local poison control center ASPCA poison control hotline (see listing later in the chapter)

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Attic and Basement Checklist

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Garage Checklist The garage should be off limits to your cat, but just in case she gets into it, you should keep these items out of reach: □ □ □ □

Antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, and other automotive fluids (toxic to cats) Batteries Lawn and garden chemicals Mouse and rat poisons (these poisons are still dangerous—your cat can eat a mouse or rat that has eaten the poison) □ Nails, screws, and other hardware that can be ingested □ Paint and paint remover (toxic to cats) □ Saws and other hand tools that may be sharp □

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The Dangers of Mouse and Rat Poisons You know that mouse and rat poisons are dangerous to your kitty, but did you know that if your kitty catches a mouse or rat who has eaten the poison, she may get severely ill or even die from eating it. Do yourself and your kitty a favor and get rid of the poisons entirely. Use safe traps such as Havahart traps to catch mice or use traditional traps in places inaccessible to kitty.

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The ASPCA has a staffed poison control center that is available 24 hours a day 365 days a year. Their toll-free number is (888) 426-4435. The cost is $50 per case with as many followup calls as necessary at no extra charge. Some local and regional poison control centers (such as the Rocky Mountain Poison Control Center) will handle cases with pets for no charge. You may be able to find a local poison control center by checking the phone book under Poison Control and asking if they handle animals.

Backyard Checklist The backyard can be a source of danger for cats. Both exotic and indigenous plants can be poisonous. You should periodically check your backyard for possible hazards and loose areas in your fencing and cat fencing if you allow your kitty to enjoy the backyard. Other hazards include: □ □ □ □ □ □

Balconies and high decks—kitty can accidentally jump from them Lawn and garden chemicals—can be absorbed through paw pads or licked off fur Mushrooms and fungi—many are toxic or even deadly Sharp lawn or flower bed edging—can cut paws Swimming pools Toxic plants—these are too numerous to list all but include evergreen plants such as holly and black locust tree pods. See the sidebar for a list of some common poisonous plants. Contact your local poison control center or state agricultural office for a listing of possible poisonous plants in your area.

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A Partial List of Common Poisonous Plants Aloe vera Azalea Begonia (wax and tuberous) Black locus Buckeye Chinese lantern Daffodil Foxglove Gladiola Holly Hyacinth Hydrangea Iris Ivy

Japanese yew Laurel Lily Lily-of-the-valley Milkweed Mistletoe Nightshades Oleander Philodendron Rhododendron Star leaf Tomato plant (green parts only) Tulip Yew

Safety Shopping List What do you really need to make your kitty safe? Now that you’ve gone through the lists, you probably have an idea what’s involved. Some areas will be too difficult to cat-proof properly (such as the basement or garage). In this case, you’ll have to declare them off limits to your cat and make sure she can’t get in by keeping the doors shut. You can get most of the items mentioned, such as childproof latches, at a hardware store. If your house is cluttered, you may want to consider using storage containers for some of your belongings.

Safety Supplies How many childproof latches do you need for: _____ Bedrooms _____ Bathrooms _____ Kitchen

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_____ Dining Room _____ Office _____ Attic _____ Basement _____ Garage How many childproof outlet covers do you need for: _____ Bedrooms _____ Bathrooms _____ Kitchen _____ Living Room _____ Dining Room _____ Office _____ Attic _____ Basement _____ Garage How many storage containers do you need for: _____ Bedrooms _____ Bathrooms _____ Kitchen _____ Living Room _____ Dining Room _____ Office _____ Attic _____ Basement _____ Garage

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What You Now Know . . . Look for anything that your cat or kitten might be able to chew. Keep all dangerous substances away from your kitty. Look in three dimensions. Cats can get into things on shelves and in high places. Keep the ASPCA poison hotline number near your phone.

Chapter 5 What’s Inside . . . Learn the best time for bringing a cat home. Learn when not to bring a cat home. Learn how to properly introduce family members. Learn how to introduce other pets.

Bringing Your Cat Home

When to Bring Your Cat Home Your life is probably pretty hectic. So when it is time to bring your cat home, don’t complicate matters. Choose a date when you have days off to spend with your new kitty or plan some vacation days around your kitty’s homecoming. If you don’t have vacation time to use, a good time might be during summer vacation when the kids are out of school. That way, you’ll know that there’ll usually be someone home to play and socialize with your cat even when you aren’t. Slow periods during work or school are also good times to bring a kitten home because they give you a good excuse to take a little time off here and there to be with your cat. At the very least, wait until a Friday afternoon to bring him home so you have the weekend with him. If you can, don’t plan anything else during this initial stage. You and your kitty need time to get acquainted. You’ll also need to do a little bonding. If your new cat is a kitten, you’ll need to get him settled into a routine and maybe catch up on lost sleep. (You may lose sleep the first few nights until your kitten gets used to his new home.)

When Not to Bring Your Cat Home There are times when you shouldn’t bring your cat home. Avoid the holidays. Yes, you may have a lot of days off, but they’re mostly spent with family and friends, who can overwhelm a new kitty. The other problem is that there are so many fun and interesting things to get into around this time. Electric Christmas tree lights, tinsel, and ornaments are very tempting. My parents told me a funny story about how their cat tried to get to the top of the 65

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A Good Gift? You may be tempted to get someone a kitten as a gift. Unless you know for certain that that person wants a cat, you should never give one as a present (and even then, I don’t think this is a good idea). Most people want to pick out their own pet. If you really want to surprise someone with a kitten, try buying some kitten supplies like a new collar, some fur mice, and things of that sort) and a note saying you’ll go with that person to pick out their special pet.

Christmas tree and slid down, breaking all the ornaments. A funny image, sure, but those antics could seriously hurt your kitty. Playing with the Christmas tree can even kill your new cat if he chews on the electrical cord or swallows tinsel or a piece of an ornament. Bones and scraps from the holiday dinner or garbage can cause upset stomachs and present a choking, blockage, or perforation problem. Most reputable breeders and many shelters discourage people from getting pets around the holidays for just these reasons. Many kittens given as Christmas gifts show up at shelters by springtime. If you’re planning on giving a cat to the family as a Christmas present, consider buying kitty presents such as a new collar, bowls, bedding, and cat toys, and then plan on getting the cat after the holidays. Other times you shouldn’t consider bringing a cat home are when you’re going to take a trip, have a big deadline at work, or have visiting guests. Again, you won’t be able to devote the time you need to help your cat adjust to living with you.

The Car Ride Home When you bring your kitty home, be certain to transport him in a carrier. While many shelters and rescues provide cardboard carriers, some kitties get so distressed that they can actually chew through the cardboard. (I had this happen to me—I ended up buying a carrier from the shelter). Some cats become carsick, fearful, or worse when riding in the car—a carrier keeps your kitty safe and secure in one place so you can focus on driving. Even if you bring a second person along with you, you should still use a carrier. Don’t trust your passenger to be able to hold your cat—cats and kittens can squirm out of people’s arms at inopportune moments. Imagine something akin to the Tasmanian devil loose in your car. That’s how a cat or kitten may be, given the new surroundings and experience, not to mention that a cat could scratch you out of fear. A companion in the car can be helpful to keep an eye on the cat and alert you if there’s a problem (such as carsickness). Bring paper towels, a few plastic grocery store bags, enzymatic

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Before you get home, you should have his litter box prepared. Bring the kitty inside, immediately place him in the litter box, and let him have some privacy. Most cats and kittens may simply walk off. This is okay. He now knows where he has to go.

First Stop, the Veterinarian Before you bring your kitty home, make a veterinarian appointment for him to ensure that he is healthy before you bring him home. Many breeders and shelters require that you have your cat or kitten checked by a veterinarian within a week after you buy or adopt your new pet or their health guarantee will be voided. If you adopt from a shelter, some shelters offer coupons for a free or low-cost checkup that many veterinarians will accept. You can get a list of veterinarians in your area from the shelter (the vet you’ve already chosen may honor it). When you bring your kitten to the veterinarian, you may be tempted to have your kitten meet all other animals and people. This isn’t a good idea for two reasons. First, your kitten is unlikely to have a strong immune system and can pick up diseases from other cats including feline infectious peritonitis and feline distemper (feline panleukopenia virus, FPV). Second, while your kitty may be friendly, not everyone’s dog or cat is. When you bring your kitty in, be sure to write down any questions you have for the vet. Don’t be embarrassed to ask questions—vets have heard them all before and the only dumb

Can I Hold Him? Most children want to pick up a kitten or cat. While this looks cute, it can actually be dangerous to the cat, and your child can inadvertently hurt him. Children can be clumsy, and all it takes is one fall to seriously injure or even kill your pet. The safest thing to teach the child is only to hold the cat when she is sitting on the floor, in a sturdy chair, or on the couch. When the child is ready to get up, she must put the cat on the floor before rising. Cats have a different notion, too, concerning when they should be picked up. Some cats who are very loving aren’t lap cats and don’t necessarily like being held. Unlike dogs, cats can become overstimulated when petted too much and may try to scratch or bite. It’s just the way cats tell you that they need their space. As your kitten or cat becomes used to the handling, he’ll be asking for more and more attention.

Bringing Your Cat Home

cleaner, and unscented baby wipes (moist towelettes), so that if there is an accident, you can clean it right away.

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68 question is the one that’s not asked. In fact, your vet should be delighted you’re asking questions because it shows you’re a conscientious pet owner. Your vet should talk to you about basic cat and kitten care. It’s important for you to listen to him and ask questions if he says something you don’t entirely understand. He may talk with you about health care, about spaying and neutering (and their benefits), vaccinations needed, and other procedures your cat may need.

Vaccinations and Cats Vaccinations are controversial when it comes to cats. There are those who believe that cats should not get vaccinations, while others believe that cats should be vaccinated every year. The American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) has drawn up guidelines for vaccinating cats and kittens. The decision to vaccinate should be according to susceptibility and the risk of exposure. For example, kittens are susceptible to diseases (either those coming from a shelter or from a cattery) and need to be vaccinated. An outdoor cat who may have contact with other cats or animals is at risk, but an indoor cat who does not have contact with other animals is at a low risk after his initial series of vaccinations. The AAFP recommends vaccinating kittens between 6 and 12 weeks of age against feline panleukopenia, feline herpesvirus, and feline calicivirus every three to four weeks until 12 weeks old (or if older than 12 weeks, vaccinating twice three to four weeks apart). After this time, the AAFP recommends vaccinating the cat one year after his initial vaccinations and then every three years thereafter unless he’s under a greater risk such as cat shows or boarding. For rabies vaccinations, they recommend one vaccination after 12 weeks of age and then another vaccination after one year. After this time, AAFP recommends vaccinating either once a year or once every three years depending on the type of vaccine. Other vaccinations should only be considered if the cat risks exposure to the disease. Talk with your veterinarian about the vaccines your cat may need. Much of it has to do with the risk of exposure to certain diseases, such as staying in a boarding facility or if your cat is allowed outdoors. If your cat is an indoor kitty only and is not exposed regularly to other animals, then he may not need as many vaccinations.

Injection-site Sarcomas There are many reasons to limit vaccinations, including autoimmune problems (where the body’s immune system reacts to the body itself) and vaccine-related or injection-site sarcomas (fibrosarcomas). This is a type of cancer that can occur at a vaccination site in cats. These sarcomas usually appear several months to a few years after the injection. Sometimes linked to rabies or feline leukemia vaccinations, the chance of developing a sarcoma is somewhere between one to three cats in ten thousand.

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Vaccinations During their first few weeks of life, kitties obtain a natural immunity against diseases from their mother. This immunity comes from maternal antibodies in the colostrum—the milk the kittens’ mother produces during the first twenty-four hours after the kittens are born. However, this immunity is only temporary. The maternal antibodies begin to fade sometime between the kitten’s 5th and 16th week of age, leaving the kitten exposed to disease. Veterinarians try to vaccinate the kitten after the maternal antibodies fade but before the kitten can become exposed to a deadly disease. When the maternal antibodies will fade is uncertain—this varies with each kitten. If a vaccination is given too soon, the vaccine will not override the antibodies. If the vaccination is given too late or not at all after the antibodies fade, the kitten is still at risk. This is why it is very important to follow your veterinarian’s recommendations regarding vaccinations. If your cat is an adult, vaccinations are still important. Certain diseases, such as rabies and feline distemper, can affect any cat at any age. Again, talk with your vet concerning your cat’s vaccinations. The following is the current list of vaccines available. Unless your cat is at high risk for certain diseases, he will not need all these vaccinations.

Rabies Rabies has been feared throughout the ages and with little wonder! Rabies is caused by a virus. It is contagious to humans and is transmitted through the cat’s saliva—either through a bite or through wounds in the skin. The incubation period varies considerably, anywhere from three weeks to three months or more. Rabies takes two forms, which affect the central nervous system: dumb (paralytic) and furious. In dumb rabies, the cat’s throat becomes paralyzed, causing excessive salivation (drooling) and inability to swallow. Furious rabies is the classic “mad dog” form, where the cat becomes vicious and attacks anything. Furious rabies eventually progresses to the paralytic stage and death follows within a few days. Most municipalities require pets to have rabies vaccinations.

Bringing Your Cat Home

This is a low number when you compare it to the danger of not vaccinating. Rabies is 100 percent deadly, and many of the other diseases are equally so if your kitty becomes exposed to them. If you are concerned about injection-site sarcomas, talk with your veterinarian. The rabies and FeLV shot that must be given annually are thought to be safer than the three-year shot because they don’t contain adjuvant. The adjuvant is considered the problem underlying injection-site sarcomas.

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Feline Panleukopenia (FPV) or Feline Distemper Feline panleukopenia, or feline distemper, is a highly contagious virus. It causes high fever, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and lack of appetite. It may have neurological symptoms. Over 90 percent of kittens who contract this disease die from it. This isn’t a disease to mess around with. Your cat can get it from contaminated soil and even off your clothing or shoes if you’ve been exposed to a sick cat. The virus can survive for years in the environment but can be killed with bleach and water. Vaccinations are recommended by AAFP.

Feline Herpesvirus (FHV) or Viral Rhinotacheitis (FVR) This virus causes about 70 percent of cat upper respiratory infections. FHV, or FVR, causes fever, frequent sneezing, conjunctivitis, stuffy nose, and nasal and eye discharge. This disease is more serious for kittens and older cats with weakened immune systems but can still make your adult cat miserable. Kittens can die from these infections, so it’s important that they are vaccinated against them. Like many viruses, this can stay with the cat for life— flaring up from time to time or becoming chronic. Vaccinations are recommended by AAFP.

Feline calicivirus (FCV) Like feline herpesvirus, this virus causes about 45 percent of cat upper respiratory infections. FCV shows the same symptoms as FHV. Vaccinations are recommended by AAFP.

Chlamydia Psittaci This is an upper respiratory ailment that usually causes severe conjunctivitis. The transmission is usually from direct contact (cat-to-cat) and the incidence is actually fairly low. This disease responds well to treatment. Routine vaccinations are not recommended unless you have a multicat household where the disease has been confirmed. If vaccinations are appropriate, then the AAFP recommends annual revaccinations.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) Feline leukemia virus is a deadly disease. It can cause anemia, decreased appetite, weight loss, tumors, jaundice, lethargy, and a host of other symptoms. It can be transmitted cat-tocat through saliva (bites and grooming), bodily fluids (shared litter boxes), and from a mother cat to her kitten through the milk or even before the kitten has been born. It lowers your cat’s immune system making it difficult for him to fight off infections and disease. Kittens are the most susceptible to it; many older cats can successfully fight off the infection.

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Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) FIP is a fatal disease that affects kittens and cats with weakened immune systems. Most veterinarians believe that this virus is a genetic mutation of another virus, which is a type of feline coronavirus. It is believed to be transmitted either cat-to-cat through bodily fluids or feces. Somewhere between 1 and 5 percent of cats who have been exposed to a coronavirus, most notably FCV, will develop FIP. Once a cat shows symptoms of FIP, there’s nothing that can be done except supportive care. Although there is no actual FIP test, there are tests for coronavirus that many vets call an FIP test. A cat who tests positive for coronavirus does not necessarily have FIP—FIP is currently diagnosed through the symptoms. That simply means that he has been exposed to one of the many strains of coronavirus but not necessarily FIP. In the wet form stage of FIP, fluids build in the abdomen or chest and cause difficulty breathing. Cats usually die in less than a month after showing symptoms. The dry form usually manifests as anemia, kidney and liver failure, excessive thirst, fever, and lethargy. Cats who have the dry form hang on longer, but die within six months of initial symptoms. At the time of this writing, the AAFP does not recommend FIP vaccinations because studies of the effectiveness of this vaccine conflict.

Bordetella Bronchiseptica (FeBb) This is the same virus that produces kennel cough in dogs. It causes upper respiratory infections and even pneumonia in cats. It is contracted through the air from sick cats who sneeze, cough, and so on. However, the incidence among pet homes appears to be fairly low. Bordetella seems to appear more in catteries and animal shelters. The AAFP does not recommend routine vaccination unless the cat enters a multicat environment such as a boarding facility, cattery, or shelter where bordetella has been confirmed.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) Feline immunodeficiency virus (sometimes called kitty AIDS) is a deadly virus that is often slow to affect a cat who has it. This disease is not contagious to humans in any way and transmits to another cat usually through the bite of an infected cat. It can be passed from mother cat to the kittens through infected milk, and adults can contract it occasionally through sex (a good reason to spay and neuter!). It’s not nearly as contagious as it’s reputed to be. This disease compromises a cat’s immune system. Chronic symptoms include stomatitis, fever, skin conditions, upper respiratory infections, urinary tract infections, cancer, seizures, among others. You can diagnose through a test.

Bringing Your Cat Home

Although this is a deadly disease, if your cat has no contact with other cats or is not an outside cat, the chance of contracting the disease is low and the AAFP recommends that you vaccinate based on the cat’s age and risk of infection. Vaccination is not recommended for cats older than four months with low or no risk of exposure.

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72 The FIV vaccine is not recommended by the AAFP because it makes all cats vaccinated test positive when tested for FIV. The efficacy looks promising, but may not be as effective in a real-world scenario.

Medical Records Bring any vaccination and health records with you when you visit the veterinarian. These records will help him decide if dewormings or vaccinations are required at this time. They will also give a medical history on your cat, which your vet will find helpful.

Deworming Cats have a variety of internal parasites that can afflict them. There are many worms that inhabit the gastrointestinal tract, as well as heartworms and other internal parasites that can be detrimental to your cat’s health. Some can even be transferred to you. It’s very important to eliminate these pests to keep your cat healthy. Your veterinarian will most likely want a fecal sample when you bring in your cat or kitten. Be sure to put it in a plastic zip-top bag and write your name and your cat’s name on it before bringing him to your vet. You might be tempted to treat your cat with over-the-counter dewormers. Unless you have experience with recognizing worms (various types require different treatments), treating your cat with a dewormer might not be a good idea. Not all dewormers work on all varieties and some may not work well or may have adverse side effects. All dewormers are poisons and even those with a relatively high margin of safety can make your cat sick. What kind of worms can your cat get? In the following section, I’ve broken them up into worms that inhabit the gastrointestinal tract and heartworms.

Worms When we say that a cat has “worms,” we’re usually talking about the worms that inhabit the gastrointestinal tract for the most part. These include roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms. Most worm infections come through an oral-fecal transmission route (meaning that the cat eats something contaminated with fecal material that has worm eggs in it). He may groom

Can My Kids Get Pinworms from the Cat? The short answer is no. Pinworms are contracted through physical contact with another human with pinworms. Cats do not get pinworms and cannot pass them along to humans.

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Maybe. Roundworms and tapeworms aren’t contracted directly through the cat but through the oral-fecal route. That is, if your child eats dirt or plays with the litter box that’s contaminated with worm eggs or touches fecal material and then puts his hands in his mouth, then there is a possibility for roundworm or tapeworm infection. Because humans aren’t the ideal hosts for these worms, they often travel through the body looking for a place where they can reside. Many children have lost their vision due to roundworm infestation. Roundworm eggs live a long time in the soil (over a year) and are not destroyed by heat or cold. Roundworms can be carried by a variety of wildlife as well, not just cats. Thus roundworm eggs may be in the soil even if you don’t have a cat. This is why teaching your children sanitary methods, such as washing their hands with soap and warm water before eating or touching their mouths, is vital for their health. Likewise, keeping your cat worm-free is important as well.

himself after using an infested litter box and get them that way. This means that if your kitty has worms, you’re going to have to clean the litter box and throw out all that litter, usually several times over several days. Roundworms may be transferred from mother to kittens before they’re born or through the mother’s milk. Tapeworms may be picked up through swallowing fleas or eating rodents. Hookworm infestation occurs through skin penetration or to a kitten from his mother’s milk. Of all the worms, roundworms are the most common. Roundworm and hookworm infestations can kill cats and kittens, so it is important to have your vet perform a fecal analysis on your kitty. Both roundworms and tapeworms can be transmitted to humans, so it is important to keep your cat worm-free and wash your hands.

Heartworm Heartworm is an internal parasite transmitted through mosquitoes. Originally thought of as a dog disease, veterinarians have discovered that cats can get heartworm infestations also—with more lethal results. Heartworms will kill your cat. Most of the continental United States have heartworm, although it is less prevalent in the west. Mosquitoes transmit heartworm by feeding on an infected dog or cat. The microfilariae or heartworm larvae from the infected pet incubate within the mosquito for several days. When the infected mosquito feeds off another cat or dog, it injects the microfilariae and the cat or dog becomes infected with heartworm. Your veterinarian should administer a heartworm test before putting your cat on preventative. It is a simple blood test that screens for the presence of microfilariae. Have your cat tested for heartworm once a year and put on a heartworm preventative. In many areas,

Bringing Your Cat Home

Can My Kids Get Roundworms and Tapeworms from the Cat?

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The Safe Place Before you bring your cat home, you need to decide what room is the safe place for him. Put his food and water there as well as his bed and his litter box. (It can be a spare bedroom or even the bathroom.) A small room is best so he can establish his territory. Bathrooms are a good choice because you will spend time in there. Of course, if he’s in your room, he can sleep with you. He’ll need his scratching post and perhaps a few toys. This is the place you’ll bring your new kitty when you get home. Your kitty will stay in his safe room the first week or so while he gets used to his surroundings. Moving from one home to the other is very stressful for a cat, so keeping him in one room helps him get used to this new and scary place.

heartworm is seasonal and you only have to administer the preventative during the spring and summer months. Heartworm season is year-round in the southern states and areas where the temperatures seldom reach freezing. Your veterinarian will prescribe either a spot-on heartworm preventative or a chewable tablet most cats love.

Introducing the Family You may think that having all your friends and relatives show up for a giant cat party once you bring your new kitty home might be a good idea, but avoid this if possible. Your new companion will need some quiet time to adjust to his new surroundings, and too many people will be confusing to him. He’ll be overwhelmed as it is with a new owner and home— so give him time to settle in. The best thing you can do is to give your cat or kitten some quiet time and let him come to you. When you bring your new cat home, bring him inside the room and show him the litter box and where his food and water are. Shut the door and let him rest. Don’t try to coax him out or try to play with him. He has to get used to all this now. Some cats are so terrified by the new experience that they dive under the bed and that’s that. Don’t chase him under the bed and drag him out—let him get used to the strangeness of it all. After a few hours, check on your new cat. Sit on the floor and see if he’s interested in being petted or played with. If he is, fine. If not, wait. Once he starts coming out of his hiding place, you can have a child come in and sit on the floor and wait for your cat to introduce himself. (Be sure your child understands that he is to be quiet and gentle with your new cat!) Do this one at a time with each family member so your kitty can meet everyone on his terms.

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Introducing Other Cats Introducing the new cat is pretty easy. By now, your resident cat has smelled the newcomer in the safe place and is curious. You can start the introductions by cracking the door and letting the two cats bump noses. If one hisses or spits, close the door and try it again a little later. Once you get no apparent nastiness between the two cats, you can put the newcomer in a carrier and let the other cat into the room so they can meet. If there’s no animosity, you can open up the carrier and let your newcomer out. Offer the resident cat yummy treats in the new cat’s presence, and don’t pay attention to the new cat when the older cat is around. It’ll probably take a bit of time, but most cats sort out their differences and become pals. Playing with each of them and giving them both equal attention will soothe most cats. Don’t force them to be with each other—eventually they’ll figure out everything is okay.

Introducing Dogs Some dogs do great with cats; others think cats are dinner. It depends on the dog. Some dogs, who have Sighthound or Northern Breed in them, may have a strong prey drive and may want to chase your cat. You probably already know whether or not your dog is good with cats and other pets. If your dog is a young puppy, you may be able to introduce the new cat to her. Once the cat has swatted them on the nose, many puppies learn to leave the cat alone.

At What Age Can I Bring My Kitten Home? Everyone wants to bring their kitten home early, but the earliest you should bring home a kitten is 12 weeks old. A kitten needs time with his siblings and his mom so he learns how to be a cat. If you bring home a kitten younger than 8 weeks old, you run the risk of having a cat with emotional problems.

Bringing Your Cat Home

Now is not the time to introduce your new cat to the rest of the pets. Keep the other pets away while your new kitty becomes accustomed to you and his new surroundings. How long before you can let your kitty out in the rest of the house to explore? It really depends on your new cat and how he is acting. If he dives under the bed or behind the toilet every time you walk in, he’s not ready yet. If he stares at you when you walk in with those saucer-round eyes, he’s still not ready. If he’s acting confident and ready to go, it’s time for him to step out into his new home.

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

76 If your dog is an adult, but considered good with cats, you can keep your cat in other rooms so your dog becomes used to the cat’s smell. Take your time with this—most owners tend to rush introductions. After a couple of weeks, you can allow your dog into the area where your cat has been to investigate his smell. (Be sure to move the cat to another part of the house while you have your dog explore the cat’s area.) After your dog gets used to the scent, it’s time for introductions. Start slow, crack the door open, and let them see each other. Interest in the cat is okay; wanting to eat the cat is not. Correct any attempts to chase the cat. After you’ve had some introductions, you can put your dog in a crate and let the cat out into the dog’s area. The dog should become used to him and not react when he’s walking around. After a few weeks of this, it’s time to have your dog meet your cat. Put the dog on a leash and wait. Sometimes your cat will want to visit; other times, he may find this boring and go elsewhere. Work on commands with your dog. Sometimes teaching your dog to focus on you while the cat is in the room works well. Give him praise and treats for watching you instead of the cat. Once you allow the dog and cat to meet while your dog is not on leash, be certain your cat has a way out of the dog’s reach in case he gets excited and starts to chase the cat. Dogs are faster than cats in the long run, but your cat should be quick enough to get away if you give him an exit route in each room. Think vertically. Your cat should be able to climb to safety in every room.

Introducing Other Pets If you have other pets, that is, birds, rodents, snakes, lizards, and so on, keep them away from your cat. Cats will look on them as prey, and to avoid unfortunate incidents, keeping them separate is the best solution.

What You Now Know . . . Don’t bring your kitten home before 12 weeks old. Don’t get a Christmas kitty. Keep introductions low key. Plan to take time off to get acquainted with your new cat. Introduce your new cat slowly to your house as well as your family, including the dog and other cats in the household.

Chapter 6 What’s Inside . . . Learn what the first few days and nights will be like. Learn how to get a really good night’s sleep when you have a new kitten or cat. Learn what ground rules you need to set with the children before they interact with the cat or kitten. Learn how to teach house manners to your cat.

Family Education

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amily education cuts both ways. You not only need to teach your children some things (as well as perhaps yourself!), but you also need to teach your cat some ground rules. This chapter helps you do just that.

The First Few Days and Nights The first few days and nights are usually the toughest when it comes to getting a cat or kitten. Think about it. You’ve been going along just fine and now have added a new family member. However, this family member doesn’t understand the rules and you can’t bring him up on the couch and explain it to him. Thus, his presence is going to make your life topsy-turvy for several days.

Spending Your Days with Your New Cat Plan on spending a fair portion of your time with your kitten or cat once she gets over the shock of being teleported to another planet. You might as well put on your running shoes, too, because you’re going to be extricating her from all sorts of mischief.

How to Get a Really Good Night’s Sleep with a New Kitten or Cat Kittens and some cats cry when left alone for the first few nights. Because cats are territorial, you want her to get used to the new surroundings (not to mention have her remember where the litter box is). You can make your kitty feel a little bit more comforted by wrapping a hot water bottle filled with warm water with a towel and leaving a ticking alarm clock with her. You can also try giving her a SnuggleKittie, which has a heartbeat and a warming 77

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Danger Zones Kitties get in some of the weirdest places. You need to keep your kitty out of certain areas to ensure her safety. Some places your kitty may find attractive:

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The dryer Toilets with the lids open Cabinets Open drawers Open dishwasher The place between the refrigerator and wall The place between the washer/dryer and wall The garbage compactor The space between the wall and furniture Crawlspaces

pack. You can try playing Canine Lullabies, which works with kittens, too. The music has a heartbeat which helps calm animals. Lastly, you can try Feliway’s Pheromone Spray and Diffuser, which provides calming pheromones that cats respond to. Once you’ve gotten her over the first few days and she has come out of her safe place, you’ll still need some help getting some sleep. There’s good news and bad news when it comes to cats. The good news is that most adult cats sleep sixteen hours or more out of each twentyfour. The bad news is that left to their own devices, cats are nocturnal and kittens don’t sleep as much. So, that means plenty of activity in the middle of the night when you’re trying to get some shut-eye. However, there is an easy remedy. Play with your kitten or cat before you go to bed. Have her race after a teaser toy or a fishing toy until she’s had enough. Then, after she takes a quick trip to the litter box, she can come to bed with you. With you? Well, you didn’t think she’d want to sleep alone when she has a ready-made bed warmer right here (namely you!), did you? Leave your bedroom door open so she can go to the litter box in the middle of the night (or have one in your bedroom). Kittens who are younger than four months shouldn’t sleep with you because they may not be reliable at finding the litter box, but any kitty after that will do just fine. This will also help you bond with your cat. And no, your cat doesn’t gain weight sleeping on you. It only feels that way.

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Cats and kittens are very affectionate critters, but largely on their own terms. Just like you’re not always in the mood to be cuddly, your cat has times when she isn’t particularly loving either. It doesn’t mean you can’t try though. Many cats enjoy cuddling and snuggling with their humans. It’s natural, but learn to respect your cat’s requests for space. Remember she is a territorial animal. Cats get very agitated when annoyed (as you would), so don’t crowd her. Let her enjoy your presence and come to you. You’ll also need to teach your children how to respect your cat’s request for space as well as play with your cat nicely. Start by handing them a long ostrich, pheasant, or peacock feather (or a teaser toy on a stick if your child is old enough to know not to hit the kitty). The long feather does two things. First, it keeps little hands away from kitty’s claws when your kitty could become very excited in the play and accidentally scratch your kids. Second, it gives your kids a fun way to interact with your kitty without possibly hurting her. Here are some rules for interacting with your cat or kitten:

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Don’t chase the cat. Don’t drag the cat out from her safe spot. Play with the cat using a feather, teaser, fishing toy, or other toy. Do not use hands or feet to play with your cat. Stroke your cat with long, gentle strokes. Don’t pat. If your cat starts twitching her tail rapidly or swiveling her ears in an agitated motion, stop petting and leave the cat alone. Do not pet the cat on the stomach. Cats don’t like that. Don’t pick up the cat using the scruff of the neck. Give the cat some privacy when she is using her litter box. (For children) don’t pick up the cat unless you are sitting on the floor or in a sturdy chair or on the couch. (For adults) don’t carry the cat everywhere. Don’t drop the cat.

Places to Get Calming Aids for Your Kitty SnuggleKittie www.snuggleme.com Canine Lullabies www.caninelullabies.com Feliway Phermone Spray and Diffuser www.feliway.com

Family Education

Basic Manners with a Cat or Kitten

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How to Pick up a Cat (For Adults Only!) There are times when an adult needs to pick up the cat. However, most people don’t know how to do it properly. When picking up a cat, cradle the cat in a sitting position with one hand under her rear end to support her bottom and another hand around her chest and shoulders. Keep her back toward you and support her fully by pressing her gently against your chest.

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Don’t tease or torment the cat. Let your cat leave your lap or arms if she is squirming or shows signs of discomfort. Don’t let your cat roam loose outside. Don’t leave your cat outside while you’re gone.

These rules might seem a little strict, but they’re to make sure that you don’t cause unwanted behavior later. The basic rule is that what is cute for a kitten may not be cute as an adult. If you’re not sure whether something you or your kids are doing is a good thing to do, use this rule as your guide: Look at the kitten and then imagine what this behavior will be like in an adult cat. If it’s obnoxious or dangerous for an adult cat, don’t allow it as a kitten.

Teaching House Manners Most cats are pretty good when it comes to living in the house. But there are still some things you have to teach your cat to make her into the ideal house pet. This includes boundary training, scratch training, and litter box training.

Boundary Training There are places where you don’t want your cat to go. These places include countertops, stovetops, and other areas where either it’s dangerous or where you’d prefer to not have a cat walk. Believe it or not, you can train your kitty to stay off those areas. The best way to train a cat from going to a place you don’t want her to go is to make the place uninviting to her. That means make the place seem like a bad idea. Try the following to see if they work:

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Most cats don’t like crinkly surfaces, which means you can put down plain aluminum foil. This works for some cats but not all, so don’t rely on it. A better choice is Sticky Paws (www.stickypaws.com). Cats don’t like sticky surfaces, so you can use this as a deterrent. Sticky Paws is a double-sided tape that is safe for cats to touch. Your cat learns to avoid the sticky areas and eventually you no longer need to use it. It is safe for furniture and surfaces.

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Another passive item that might work is the X-mat (available from KV Vet Supply www.kvvet.com) which has little raised bumps some cats don’t like. The cat jumps on the mat, finds the bumps distasteful, and jumps off. This usually isn’t much of a deterrent to all but the most timid cats, but may work for yours. If the above doesn’t work, you may have to try more drastic measures. SSScat! is an automated cat repellant that detects motion up to one meter away. It provides a warning sound right before it issues a harmless aerosol spray and scares the cat away. Once the cat is conditioned to expect the spray after hearing the sound, you can then set it to sound only. This repellant works very well and will convince your kitty to stay away. A low-cost alternative is a Snappy Trainer (www.interplanetarypets.com). These are in essence mousetraps that have been fitted with a large paddle to make it safe for your pet. The idea is that when the cat disturbs the Snappy Trainer, it snaps, surprising the cat. Of course, it’s a one-time shot and smart cats might figure it out. Also, there is the small potential to hurt kittens so you should probably cover it with a layer of newspaper before using it. The Scat Mat (www.scatmat.com) is another aversive training item which provides a mild static shock when touched. (I’ve touched them—they’re unpleasant but completely harmless—they feel like you’ve walked across a carpet and then touched a metal doorknob.) They come in a variety of sizes. Cat repellent scents such as Boundary are another route. These work by creating a scent unpleasant to cats that repels them. Not suitable for countertops or food preparation areas, you have to spray the place once a day for a month or more to get the full benefit.

All these methods work by convincing your kitty that the place is not a good place to be. Cats, like people, are smart enough to figure out that if the place is unpleasant, they don’t need to go there. There are other methods for training your cat not to go in certain places, but they require your intervention. Things like squirt bottles make the cat aversive to the place only when you’re there. (Yes, cats can figure this out!) Don’t use this unless your kitty decides to come up and investigate what’s on the counter while you’re cooking. Give him a squirt on the rear (not in the eyes) and tell him, “No!”

Scratch Training Cats love to scratch things. Scratching is exercise for your kitty (watch her stretch out!), a marking behavior (mine does this!), and a way to sharpen her claws (die, mousey!). You can reduce scratching by trimming her nails, but you really can’t fully stop a cat from scratching at things. It’s her nature. Get used to it. However, you can teach your kitty to scratch appropriate things such as scratching posts and boards. Buy several scratching posts at least two feet and preferably over three feet in length. Some cats like sisal types; others prefer ones covered with rug. Cat trees usually have scratching posts built right in.

Family Education

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Declawing Cats There’s a lot of controversy surrounding declawing cats—and with good reason! Declawing a cat requires the removal of the claws plus amputating part of each toe to the first knuckle. Imagine having your fingers cut off from the tip to the knuckle. That is what you’re doing to a cat. The Cat Fanciers’ Association has issued this statement regarding declawing: “The Cat Fanciers’ Association recognizes that scratching is a natural behavior of cats and that cats may be defenseless without full use of their claws if they, either intentionally or unintentionally, go outdoors. Scratching damage to household furnishings can be minimized or avoided by routine clipping of the claws, the use of Sticky Paws for Furniture, claw covers and by redirecting the cat’s activity to acceptable surfaces. CFA perceives the declawing of cats (onychectomy) and the severing of digital tendons (tendonectomy) to be elective surgical procedures that are without benefit to the cat. Because of the discomfort associated with any surgery and potential future behavioral or physical effects, CFA disapproves of routine declawing or tendonectomy surgery in lieu of alternative solutions to prevent household damage. In certain situations, including high risk of injury or disease transmission to owners with bleeding disorders or compromised immune systems, declawing may be justified in order to maintain the cat-human bond.” That’s pretty strong stuff. But then so is declawing. Declawing is a very painful operation and can cause the cat to suffer for a week or more. There can be complications like infection, nail regrowth, hemorrhage, and other problems. Although there’s no scientific proof, many animal behaviorists believe that declawed cats can have behavioral problems later, including biting and inappropriate elimination. In some countries, it’s illegal to declaw cats except for medical reasons. Most veterinarians in the United States perform declawing only as a last resort, that is, if the owner is threatening to put down or get rid of the cat. Before you choose to declaw your cat, explore other options such as retraining your cat to scratch appropriate areas. You can apply Sticky Paws for Furniture to the site on the chair or sofa. Place a cardboard scratching pad next to the couch and praise him when he uses it. There are claw caps called Soft Paws that you or your veterinarian can put on your cat’s claws that last between six and eight weeks that will help her stop clawing. I disapprove of declawing and I hope you do too, enough to where you’re willing to work with your kitty to correct any scratching problem. Use it as only as a last resort.

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You’ll need to make the scratching posts as enticing as possible. Sometimes, sprinkling catnip over them does the trick. Other times, putting the scratching post by something that’s been inappropriately scratched will work. You can also teach your cat to not scratch the item using Sticky Paws and putting a scratching post right next to the item in question. Cats hate the feeling of double-sided tape and will go right to the more interesting and inviting scratching post.

Litter Box Training Most kitties already know how to use the litter box. They’re pretty much hardwired to go in it, provided that it is in an accessible area. Read more on litter box training in chapter 9.

Being a Good Neighbor You probably think of yourself as a pretty good neighbor. You keep up your yard, and you’re pretty quiet. Don’t spoil your reputation by letting your cat run loose. My mom used to hate it when her neighbor’s cats and dogs came to dig in her garden and poop in her yard. She never said anything to them, but she was peeved to have her neighbors do that. I guarantee your neighbors don’t like it when your cat strolls across their car or when she digs in their garden and leaves presents in it. No one likes hearing cat fights and yowling in the middle of the night. They may not say anything, like my mom, but they don’t like it. One thing that often happens is that neighbors are unwilling to confront you directly and will instead call animal control if you have a cat who frequently annoys them. If you’re a good neighbor and keep your kitty inside or behind a fence, they’re more likely to come to you when your kitty accidentally gets out instead of calling the authorities. Keep your kitty inside or within a kitty-proof, fenced-in yard. It’s safer for your cat and keeps you in good stead with your neighbors. As you know, regular fencing won’t hold back a cat, so get a kitty fence with no holes that your kitty can squeeze through and one that is dig-proof. Keep your kitty inside when you’re asleep or not at home. Don’t leave your kitty outside at night when she can meow or yowl loudly and disturb your neighbors. Keeping her outside puts her at risk for night predators such as owls and coyotes (even with a fence), as well as other dangers, such as catnappers and evil people wanting to harm your cat. Cats are often the victims of cult sacrifices or others who hate cats. Don’t endanger your kitty and don’t let her outside in a kitty-proof, fenced-in area unless you’re awake to supervise her.

Family Education

Cats love tearing into cardboard scratching pads, and they are such an inexpensive option you can buy several of them and put them next to any place your cat wants to scratch.

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Evildoers or Predators? If you haven’t decided yet whether or not your cat should be allowed to roam, maybe this will change your mind. This is a true story as experienced by the author. Not long ago we heard several horrific reports about mutilated cats in the Denver area. People were finding cats beheaded and with portions of the spine removed. The news horrified animal lovers and some even posted rewards to find the culprits. After a while, postmortems showed that the deaths were caused not by humans but by animal predators such as coyotes and foxes. This should be an eye-opener to anyone thinking that their cats are safe while outdoors. Don’t let your cat fall victim to predators. It is a horrific death.

What You Now Know . . . Your children need to know basic ground rules when dealing with the kitty. Teach your kitty good manners up front so that there are less potential problems later. Declawing should only be done as a last resort. You can train your cat to stay off counters and to scratch only appropriate items.

Chapter 7 What’s Inside . . . Learn what’s best to feed your cat. Learn how to examine your cat for health problems. Learn what constitutes an emergency and when you need to bring your cat to the vet. Learn why spaying and neutering is a good idea. Learn how to deal with fleas and ticks. Learn why exercise is good for your cat. Learn how to groom your cat right. Learn that proper socialization is good for your cat.

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

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aring for your cat is important if you want him to have a long healthy life. There are many things you can do to promote a healthy cat—good nutrition, spaying or neutering, good grooming, and good care. Let’s look at each of them.

Understanding How to Feed Your Cat Now that you have a cat, you may be wondering what’s best to feed her. Pet owners get a lot of mixed signals when it comes to feeding their cat. On one hand, you’ll hear that the best thing to feed your cat is commercial cat food and it really doesn’t matter what kind as long as the food meets or exceeds requirements set forth by AAFCO (Association of Animal Feed Control Officials). On the other side of the argument you’ll hear that you’re killing your cat if you feed him anything commercial and you should make your own food. No matter who you talk to, someone will have ideas about what you should feed your cat. Like everyone, I have an opinion but it’s backed with some pretty good data (from the American Veterinary Medical Association, FDA, AAFCO, and various manufacturers of pet foods) and it’s probably the best bet when it comes to feeding your cat. No matter who you talk to, there are going to be people who will swear that their cats do great on this or that diet. They’re not lying (at least not intentionally!), and their cats may be doing okay on the diets they espouse—for now. However, the long-term effect could be a whole different matter. Whether or not their diet is best for your cat is another subject. Those who recommend diets have mostly anecdotal evidence and no studies to back them up.

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

86 I recommend that you feed a good premium brand of cat food that meets or exceeds the requirements set forth by AAFCO. Superior ingredients and better digestibility are not the only benefits of premium cat food. Here are some ways to recognize premium cat food compared to other brands:

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Ingredients: You want to choose premium food because of the quality of ingredients. Generic and bargain-brand cat foods are chock-full of fillers that your cat doesn’t need. The protein sources in premium cat foods are highly digestible, meaning that your cat can use more of the protein. As a result, you feed less and have less cat waste to pick up in the litter box and the poop is less smelly. When checking the ingredients of potential cat food, be sure the first ingredients are the protein source of the cat food and are an animal protein such as chicken, fish, salmon, beef by-products, or poultry meal, rather than soy, corn gluten meal, or bone meal. Cats are true carnivores and use animal protein more efficiently than plant protein, and overall the quality of the protein, is better in a premium food with animal protein. Digestibility: The digestibility of a cat’s food is usually not stated on the package; however, you can contact the manufacturer of the food and ask them what the digestibility of their cat food is. There is always contact information on the package. Cat food that is over 80 percent digestible should be considered a premium cat food.

Don’t let cost deter you. Of course, because of the quality of the ingredients, premium cat foods may seem more expensive than the generic brands when you purchase them. However, because they have more nutrition, you feed your cat less premium food than a generic brand, thus buying premium food actually saves you money. You may have to feed your cat twice as much (or more) generic food to obtain the same nutrition as you would with a premium cat food, and you would still not receive the same results. Also feeding a premium brand will help prevent illnesses like urinary tract infections and other conditions, saving money on vet bills. There are plenty of good premium cat foods on the market, many made by recognizable companies. You should choose a cat food that is readily available so that you don’t have to drive all over town because the pet boutique where you normally buy it is closed.

Is It Okay If My Cat Skips a Meal? Unlike dogs, it is NOT okay if a cat skips a meal. Cats (especially overweight cats) who stop eating are at risk for a life-threatening condition known as hepatic lipidosis which can cause liver failure. While it might be okay if she decides not to eat one meal, if she doesn’t eat within twenty-four hours, you need to bring her to the vet. This is why you can’t “wait it out” if your cat doesn’t like his food. Unlike dogs, cats can starve themselves to death.

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Kitty cats are often seen munching away happily in Fido’s bowl, so cat owners sometimes think that they can save a few bucks by letting kitty eat from the dog’s food. After all, she likes it, right? Cats have different nutritional needs than dogs. For example, on a dry-matter basis (without water), dog food has a minimum requirement of 18 percent protein, while adult cats require at least 26 percent and kittens require 30 percent. There are also other requirements that dog food can’t fulfill. Cats eating dog food can suffer from deficiencies that can cause cardiomyopathy and blindness. So, keep your kitty out of Fido’s bowl and have her eat her own food.

Whichever cat food you buy, be certain to purchase one that is complete and balanced. This means that the cat food has all necessary nutrients and that they are balanced so as not to cause a deficiency. Complete and balanced cat foods will have an AAFCO adequacy statement showing that the cat food meets or exceeds the requirements as set forth by AAFCO. Most major cat food companies comply with AAFCO’s guidelines, but you should still check the packaging for this label to be certain. Lastly, choose a cat food that your cat likes. While this may seem trivial, it certainly isn’t. The best nutrition in the world isn’t worth anything if your cat won’t eat it.

Dry or Canned? When you look at commercial cat food, there is a dizzying array of choices. Once you’ve narrowed it down to premium cat food, you’re faced with another choice—dry or canned. To help you sort through another decision, check out the pros and cons of using each:

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Dry food: Pound for pound, dry food is the most economical choice. Most cat foods come in a dried form. It’s easy to handle and relatively easy to store. Shelf life of dry food is not as great as canned food because most cat foods now use natural preservatives such as tocopherols (vitamin E) to prevent rancidity. Dry food tends to come in the most varieties, too. On the negative side, dry food is not as palatable as other forms, and some cats may turn up their noses at it. Canned food: Cats love canned food. Canned food is expensive when compared to dry. Much of what you pay for is water and processing. Canned food is very delicious to cats and many owners mix canned and dried food to make the dry food tastier. It has an excellent storage life. It may not be as great for kitty’s teeth as dry food (harder food usually helps keep them cleaner).

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

Can My Cat Eat Dog Food?

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No Bones about It Lately, there’s been a lot of talk about raw diets, bones, meat diets, vegetarian diets, and other homemade diets. There are a lot of people out there preaching that these diets are the only ones to feed your cat. Before you rush right out and start buying chicken wings and celery, step back and think a moment. Many of these diets aren’t formulated for a cat’s nutritional needs and can actually cause harmful imbalances in your cat’s diet. (It’s tougher to formulate than you think.) Bones (even raw ones) can cause obstructions. At the very least, these diets can have harmful bacteria such as campylobacter, E. coli, or salmonella, which may or may not make your cat sick but can be passed to you or your children and make you sick.

Life-Stage and Breed-Type Foods If you look at the various premium brands, you may notice that there are brands for different life stages of your cat (kitten, adult, senior), to help prevent problems (lite, urinary tract, dental, hairball), or even brands for the breed (Persian, Siamese, Maine Coon). How do you decide among these? First, consider your cat’s age. If she’s a kitten, you should probably be feeding her kitten food. An adult naturally gets adult food. A senior should get senior food. However, if your cat is active or thin, she may need more energy and may require higher-calorie food to maintain her weight. A heavy cat will need a lite or a maintenance food. Senior diet will be lower in protein and higher in fiber than foods formulated for younger cats. If you aren’t sure what your cat needs, consult with your vet. Lastly, if the brand splits the cat food out into breeds, consider those formulations for your breed. However, you should feed your cat according to his weight and activity level. If you have a skinny senior cat who is active, a higher calorie food may be in order—talk with your veterinarian. Likewise, a fat kitten might do better on an adult food which is good for all life stages but may have less calories. Consult with your veterinarian about the proper choice for your cat.

How to Read Cat Food Labels Cat food labels can be a bit confusing. When you pick up a package of cat food, you’ll see information as required by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) including:

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Product name Manufacturer’s name and address Net quantity in weight

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Guaranteed analysis (guaranteed nutrition statement) Nutritional adequacy statement (AAFCO statement includes whether it’s for kittens, cats, or both) Feeding directions

There is other information that the manufacturer may put on the label including calories and digestibility, but this is voluntary and at the sole discretion of the company. The guaranteed analysis states the following on the label:

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Minimum percentage of crude protein (important for nutrition) Minimum percentage of crude fat (important for nutrition) Maximum percentage of crude fiber (to understand the bulk in the cat food) Maximum moisture or water (to know how much water you are paying for)

These percentages are listed “as is” or “as fed” percentages, sometimes called “by-weight.” Some cat foods will list ash and magnesium as well (important for cats who get urinary tract infections—you want low percentages). These percentages guarantee a certain amount of protein and fat. However, they don’t guarantee the quality of the ingredients. Protein, through this type of analysis, can be from indigestible or digestible ingredients. The ingredients on a cat food label are listed according to weight in descending order, meaning that it starts with the ingredient that takes the most weight. So, the first ingredient is the most common ingredient, followed by the second most common, and so forth. With most cat foods, you’ll want the protein source first, followed by other ingredients. This means that you want all the protein sources high up on the label and grain sources lower down on the label.

Minimum AAFCO Requirements AAFCO requires the following minimums on a dry-matter basis; that is, the nutritional values are measured according to the weight of the cat food minus the weight of any added water (also called moisture).

Protein Fat

Kitten

Adult

30% 9%

26% 9%

AAFCO requires a specific formulation for healthy kittens and cats with minimums (and sometimes maximums) for certain nutrients. This is why you must always look for an AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement on the cat food before you buy it.

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

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Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

90 If the first ingredient is chicken, does that mean this food is mostly chicken? Not necessarily. For example, if a cat food lists the first five ingredients as chicken, corn gluten meal, wheat middlings, corn, and poultry fat (preserved with BHA), the combination of corn gluten meal, wheat middlings, and corn may outweigh the chicken. Also, “chicken” includes the water that is in the chicken, whereas chicken meal and chicken by-product meal have water and fat extracted. Technically, chicken meal could have a higher percentage of available protein than chicken on a pound-for-pound basis. So why is all this important? Well, you need to know ingredients in your cat’s food to determine if it’s premium. Second, you need to know if the protein/fat is what your cat really needs for his health. Third, you need to know if the cat food is simply calling itself premium without being premium; that is, cutting corners on the food by touting the very first ingredient and then loading up the rest of the food with grains. Fourth, you need to know if the percentages could cause health problems with your cat.

Cat Food Worksheet Name of cat food?

Readily available?

Where can you buy this cat food?

AAFCO compliant?

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What form does your cat prefer? (dry or canned)

What is the minimum protein?

What is the minimum fat?

What is the main protein ingredient?

Feeding Your Cat Follow the cat-food manufacturer’s feeding instructions for your cat’s weight and age and split them up into two or three meals a day. Usually the amounts are larger portions than what your cat needs, but it is a good start. If your cat doesn’t eat it all or if he is gaining too much weight, cut back the portions until your cat is maintaining a healthy weight.

Can My Cat Be a Vegetarian? In a word? No! Cats are true carnivores and require meat in their diet. Cats lack the basic amino acid taurine, which they must get from their food. Without taurine she could go blind or suffer from cardiomyopathy which could kill her. Taurine is not available in vegetarian diets without a supplement. It must come from an animal source, so supplements containing taurine defeat the purpose of a vegetarian diet.

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Is it formulated specifically for your age cat or to meet his special needs?

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Mad Cat Disease? You may be wondering if pet food has been affected by the hubbub over “mad cow disease” or bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE). While dogs do not get a BSE-like disease, cats can suffer from feline spongiform encephalopathy (FSE). According to the FDA, approximately 90 cats have been diagnosed in the United Kingdom with FSE since its discovery in 1989. The numbers of infected felines have declined each year after 1994 when feed bans took effect. As of this writing, there has never been a case of FSE within the United States. Furthermore, the FDA bans meat from countries that have BSE in their herds. However, you may worry about feeding your kitty beef since the meat in cat food usually comes from the parts that would most likely contain BSE prions such as the nervous system and organ meats. If you are concerned about your cat possibly contracting FSE from BSE-tainted food, look for pet food that does not use beef or beef by-products. Or look for foods containing human-grade ingredients.

But even if you do supplement, cats don’t thrive on vegetable protein or low-protein diets. Their bodies aren’t made to process that much plant material and can’t get good nutrition from it. If you want to feed a vegetarian diet to a pet, get a pet who is a vegetarian. Don’t own a cat. Vegetarian diets aren’t AAFCO approved and they probably taste terrible. On the Internet people claim their cats are doing fabulously on a veggie diet. In five years, these cats will probably be suffering from cardiomyopathy and blindness.

Going to the Vet Nobody likes going to the doctor—and your cat is no different! But visiting the vet is as important for your cat as it is for you to visit the doctor occasionally—at least for a checkup. After their initial series of vaccinations and a spay or neuter, most cats don’t need to go to the vet’s office more than once a year, unless a problem arises, until your cat starts creeping into middle age. After that time, you may be noticing some health problems like arthritis, bad teeth, or other middle-age to old-age ailments. You can prevent a lot of health problems simply by taking good care of your cat. That includes:

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A home health exam every week. Spaying or neutering your pet. Brushing your cat’s teeth. Controlling fleas and ticks. Grooming your cat.

93 Knowing how to recognize a health problem. Knowing how to recognize an emergency. Getting vaccinations. Keeping kitty indoors.

The Home Health Exam A weekly exam is very important for your cat’s health. Take the time to check your cat over for any abnormalities. Sometimes pet owners are so used to seeing something on their pet that they don’t think it’s abnormal until they really examine the cat or until someone points it out to them. So, take time to do this. A good time is usually while grooming your cat (which you should be doing once a week).

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Whole body: Run your hands along your cat’s body to feel if he’s gaining or losing weight or muscle mass. If your cat is getting bony, it may be a sign that you’re not feeding him enough or he may have a disease that is causing him to lose weight. Conversely, a sudden weight gain or puffiness without a drop in activity may be a sign of disease, too. Look for abnormalities such as bumps and lumps. If you feel a lump, check the other side to see if it is normal. For example, if you feel something lumpy on the right elbow, check the left one in the same place. If there is a similar lump on the left elbow, you can safely discount the lumps as normal. Eyes: Your cat’s eyes should be clear and bright without excessive or puslike discharge, redness, or tearing. Nose: Your cat’s nose should be cool to the touch and moist. Hot and dry may indicate a fever. There should be no discharge or blood. Ears: Your cat’s ears should be clean and sweet smelling. Any foul odor or debris that looks like coffee grounds indicates an infection or ear mites. Excessive buildup of wax indicates a potential ear problem. Mouth: Your cat’s teeth should be white and clean, without a tartar buildup. Your cat’s breath should not be foul smelling—if it is, it may suggest tooth or gum problems. Are the gums a healthy pink or are they red or even pale? Legs: Feel down your cat’s legs to check for any lumps or bumps. Inspect the footpads for cuts and foreign objects such as foxtails. Look at the toenails—they shouldn’t be red or broken. Check the legs for full range of motion, moving them slowly and gently in every direction they comfortably turn. There should be no clicks or pops. Skin and fur: The skin and fur should be healthy. Look for any sores, bald patches, or redness to the skin. The skin should not be dry or flaky. Dark grains through the fur that turn red when wet could be signs of a problem. Tail: The tail should be healthy looking, not hanging limp. Check to see if your cat has been chewing on it. Sexual organs: Look at the sex organs. A discharge from the vagina or penis could be cause for concern.

Depending on the severity of the symptoms, a trip to the vet is in order if you find anything unusual.

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Spaying and Neutering Spaying and neutering, that is, removing a cat’s sexual organs, often causes concern for pet owners who have never done this. There are many reasons, mostly misinformed, why people keep their cats intact. Many pedigreed pet owners erroneously think that keeping a cat intact makes the cat somehow more valuable. Because of this, three to four million pets are euthanized each year. By spaying and neutering, you’re doing your part to end this. In addition, look at the health and behavior reasons for spaying and neutering; it

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Reduces aggression in cats. Reduces their urge to roam to look for mates. Makes your cat a better pet because she is focused on you. Keeps your female cat from accidentally becoming pregnant. Eliminates ovarian and uterine cancer in females. Greatly reduces breast cancer in females. Eliminates testicular cancer in males. Eliminates the heat cycle—no need to lock up or listen to the female cat during heat. Reduces or eliminates spraying in the house (urine marking). Eliminates pyometra, a life-threatening uterine infection.

That’s quite a bit for a single operation. But what about all the rumors you’ve heard about spaying and neutering? If you have heard the following, check out the truth that follows the false statements below:

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Your cat will get fat and lazy. Cats get fat and lazy from too much food and not enough exercise. You may have to cut back a bit on their food after you spay or neuter your cat. Your cat will miss sex. Cats don’t enjoy sex the way people do. It’s an instinct and they get very little pleasure from it. My pedigreed cat is more valuable intact. Actually, this is untrue unless you show your cat and are planning on breeding your champion cat. Otherwise, the kittens your cat produces will be mediocre. A cat needs to have a litter of kittens to improve her temperament. A cat’s temperament changes when she has kittens but may or may not change for the better. Most cats keep the same temperament they had before they had kittens. It’s healthy for a cat to have a litter of kittens. Actually, it’s healthier for a cat to not have a litter of kittens. Cats may have complications and even die in the birth process and if spayed early, it actually reduces or eliminates the chance of mammary cancers. I want to show the kids the miracle of birth. Buy a DVD or videotape. What will you show them when there are complications such as a dead kitten or stuck kittens or massive blood loss? What will you do with all the kittens? It’s better to show your kids responsible pet ownership and spay or neuter your cat.

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If you own only a cat (or cats), the best way to keep fleas off your cat is to make him an indoor-only cat. It will greatly reduce the chances of getting them.

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I want a cat just like this one. No cat can be exactly like your current cat. Genetics does some pretty amazing things and even foiled people who cloned a cat at Texas A&M. The cloned offspring looked and behaved differently than the donor cat. I can make money breeding cats. Actually, the cost of caring for kittens until 12 weeks old (including food, veterinarian costs, and visits) adds up rapidly. And there’s no guarantee you’ll sell the kittens for what you’re asking.

Spaying and neutering can be done anytime after 8 weeks of age. It used to be that you had to wait until the cat was at least six months because of anesthesia risks, but the latest anesthetic is safe enough to use on very young kittens. Studies also show if they are altered before hormones kick in, they will be more affectionate. Any competent vet can perform a spay or neuter. In some cases, there may be minor complications such as undescended testicles (cryptorchid) that requires the veterinarian to perform a slightly more complex surgery.

External Parasites Fleas, ticks, and mites can cause misery to a happy, healthy cat. But more than just making your cat miserable, external parasites can cause severe health problems and in certain instances, carry dangerous diseases to you and your family.

Fleas Fleas are nasty little bloodsuckers that carry tapeworm and wondrous diseases such as bubonic plague, typhus, bartonella, rickettsia, and wolbachia. They carry other diseases, too. So they’re more than just a nuisance, and they’re definitely something you should protect your cat from. Fleas flourish everywhere save places that are very cold, very dry, or at high altitudes. I live in such a place (in the Rocky Mountains) and have very few problems with fleas, but those fleas that we see tend to carry plague. So, fleas are a no-win situation wherever you go. If you suspect a flea infestation, search for fleas on your cat around his belly and groin area, at the base of his tail, and around his ears. Use a flea comb to comb them out. A common sign of fleas are deposits of black flea feces that turn red when wet. Of course, seeing the little suckers jump is a sure sign of flea infestation.

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Preventing Fleas by Not Giving Them a Chance

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Flea Systemics Some systemic treatments are as follows:

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Frontline (Fipronil) and Frontline Plus (Fipronil and Methoprene) work by killing fleas within twenty-four to forty-eight hours. Frontline Plus contains an insect growth regulator that keeps immature fleas from reproducing. It is a topical, spot-on systemic that works for three months against adult fleas and one month against ticks. Advantage (Imidacloprid) works by killing both adult fleas and larvae within fortyeight hours. It is a topical, spot-on systemic that works for six weeks against adult fleas. Program (Lufenuron) works by preventing flea eggs from hatching or maturing into adults. It is a pill you give once a month. Revolution (Selamectin) kills fleas and ticks and controls ear mites and heartworm. It is a topical, spot-on systemic that works for a month. Biospot for cats (Pyriproxyfen) is a topical, spot-on systemic that has an insect growth regulator that keeps immature fleas from reproducing. It lasts about a month.

If you find fleas on your cat, you can guarantee that you have a flea infestation in your home. So, how do you declare war on fleas? Before you go out and buy flea products, stop! Flea products made for dogs can be dangerous or lethal to your cat. Only use products made to use on and around cats. Never use a product that contains permethrins on a cat. First, talk to your veterinarian on ways to combat the problem. Often, your veterinarian can recommend a system that will fight fleas in the yard, in your house, and on your cat. Your vet will suggest products based on your climate and your cat’s age and health. He will also know safe combinations to use. Be very careful about mixing products and always read the label. You’ll have to vacuum all carpets and furniture—anywhere fleas hide. I’ve heard of putting a piece of flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill the fleas. Systemic treatments (obtainable from your vet) have made most drastic measures (flea bombs and the like) obsolete except in the worst infestations.

Ticks Ticks are blood-feeding relatives of the spider and carry a host of dangerous diseases including Rocky Mountain spotted fever and the much-publicized Lyme disease. If you find a tick on your cat, avoid handling it or you may risk exposing yourself to disease. Instead, treat the area with a good tick insecticide approved for use on cats, wait a few minutes, and then try to remove it. Wear latex gloves and use

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Mites Mites are small arachnids and relatives to spiders and ticks. There are several types of mites including those that cause sarcoptic and demodectic mange and those that enter the ears and cause infection. Your vet can determine a type of infestation depending on skin scrapings. There are three major mites:

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Ear mites (Otodectes cynotis) often appear as reddish-brown earwax in your cat’s ears. Your cat may scratch or shake his head frequently. Don’t try to treat ear mites with over-the-counter solutions because there may already be a secondary infection. Your vet will need to clean out the reddish-brown gunk and then will administer ear drops to kill the mites and handle any infections. Milbemycin oxime (MilbeMite Otic), ivermectin (Acarexx), and selamectin (Revolution) all work on ear mites and are available only from your vet. Demodectic (Demodex) mange mites feed primarily on the cells of the hair follicle. They appear as dry, scaly, red skin, with hair loss. Demodectic mange is more likely on dogs, but it can appear on cats, which is rare. Young cats sometimes get these mites in the localized form and the infections will often heal up on their own. Cats who suffer from feline leukemia, FIV, or cancer may have a more serious form of demodectic mange that may require treatment. Your vet needs to diagnose and possibly treat this mange. Scabies mange mites (Notoedres cati) are highly contagious. This mange may spread quickly in kennels. It is itchy with hair loss and a red rash. Your vet will either treat it with ivermectin or selamectin (Revolution).

Common Health Problems Cats get plenty of different conditions and health problems, and it’s impossible to cover all of them here. A good book for health care is the Cat Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook (3rd edition) by Delbert G. Carlson DVM and James M. Giffin MD (Howell Book House, 1995). I’ll cover some of the basic health problems, but you need to be aware that many more do exist.

Abscesses Abscesses (called cellulitis) occur to puncture wounds, usually due to catfights and other scrapes cats get into. You can also see small abscesses caused by acne or pimples due to minor skin infections. If you have a single indoor cat, you’re less likely to see cellulitis on your cat than you would if you have an outdoor cat or a multicat household. Cellulitis is serious business. It can infect the lymph nodes. You can recognize it as a lump that’s harder than surrounding tissue and that is also very warm. It will be red, too, and can spread in streaks on your cat’s skin. Bring your cat to a veterinarian for all abscesses.

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

tweezers. Firmly grasp the tick with the tweezers and gently pull. Don’t try to pull the tick out if it resists: You may leave portions of the tick embedded in your cat that may become infected. Wait for the tick to drop off and dispose of it.

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Allergies Allergies and intolerances seem to be occurring more frequently in cats. Perhaps it’s the pollutants in today’s environment. When you think of allergies, you might think of the sitcom version of a person sneezing all the time—and certainly, there is that component! But there are also many food (dietary) and contact allergies. Cats can even become allergic to fleas! Allergies show up as skin problems or swelling where there’s contact. Food allergies are difficult to diagnose but may show up as skin or digestive problems. Contact allergies occur when the cat comes in contact with something external to his body. Some contact allergies are apparent; some aren’t as easy to diagnose. For example, if your cat’s skin looks irritated and is itchy after using a particular shampoo, you might guess that the cat is allergic to a chemical in that shampoo. Other types of contact allergies might be due to plastic or rubber dishes, flea collars, lawn chemicals, litter box contents (such as perfumes), wool, synthetics, or carpet dyes. Bring your cat to a veterinarian to diagnose and treat allergies. Diet (food allergies): Dietary allergies are becoming common among cats. They’re a bit tricky to diagnose. Your vet will recommend a hypoallergenic diet for several weeks. This diet usually has a novel protein source; that is, a protein source that cats generally don’t eat. It may have an unusual carbohydrate source, too, such as potatoes or barley. After your cat is on this diet several weeks, you add the potential problem ingredients to determine the allergy. Some cat owners are so relieved to have their cats free from the allergy that they keep them on the hypoallergenic diet. This is another reason to keep your cat on a highquality (premium) diet because there are fewer fillers that may cause allergies. Flea bite dermatitis (flea allergy dermatitis): Flea bite dermatitis can cause itchy skin. This is when the cat becomes allergic to flea saliva. The cat has skin problems with this condition. Eliminating fleas from your cat and your home will solve the problem and provide welcome relief. Your veterinarian can prescribe medications to alleviate the itching. Even after the fleas have been eliminated, the cat can continue to suffer from the allergies. So

Allergies or Intolerance? Cats that are allergic to certain foods will show their allergies in the form of rashes, poor coat, and other conditions (see the earlier section “Allergies”). Cats that are intolerant of certain foods will not be able to digest the food. For example, cats typically are lactose-intolerant, meaning that they can’t break down milk sugars. So drinking milk often results in diarrhea and gastric upsets. Cats that are allergic to certain foods (beef, for example) may be able to digest the food just fine, but the problems manifest themselves in skin and other problems.

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You can check for dehydration with your kitty by doing a simple skin snap test. Pull up on the loose skin on the back of your kitty’s neck and release. It should snap back, not stay in the same position or “melt” slowly back. Both of these are signs of severe dehydration, and you need to bring your kitty to the vet immediately. (See chapter 8 for more on dehydration.)

treatment may be necessary. See your veterinarian if your cat is having skin problems and there’s a lot of fleas around.

Colds Cats can’t catch human colds, so don’t worry! However, kitties can catch kitty-colds, and they can be pretty nasty. Cats can and do get upper respiratory infections and they’re highly contagious between cats. Kittens can have a mortality rate up to 50 percent with these colds, so take them seriously. In almost 90 percent of the cases, the culprits are feline calicivirus (FCV) and feline herpesvirus (FHV). Don’t mess around; bring your kitty to the vet for diagnosis and treatment of symptoms. These viruses are transmitted by direct contact with infected saliva or mucus, so contaminated litter pans, bowls, and anything that comes in contact with the infected mucus can carry the disease. (The virus can live for two to ten days outside the host.) There’s no good treatment for kitty colds other than to treat the symptoms and prevent secondary bacterial infections with antibiotics. It’s a good idea to prevent them from getting it in the first place with vaccinations and by keeping your kitty indoors. What you normally see with these colds is goopy and swollen eyes, sneezing, coughing, fever, and lack of appetite. Sometimes diarrhea can occur. It’s very important to watch for dehydration and bring your kitty to the vet if you see dehydration. See the sidebar on dehydration.

Diabetes Cats can suffer from diabetes mellitus when the sugar in the bloodstream can’t be used by the cells in a cat’s body. Obese cats are at a greater risk for developing diabetes. Cats who have diabetes have increased thirst, increased urination, and lose weight rapidly. If your cat begins to have any of these signs, bring her to a vet. Your vet will need to test your cat to determine if she has diabetes. Diabetes can be controlled with oral medications or with insulin. One extremely promising development is controlling diabetes in cats with diet. Researchers have found that a high-protein and lowcarbohydrate diet can actually help control diabetes in cats. Talk with your vet about the dietary control of diabetes if your cat is found to be diabetic.

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Checking for Dehydration

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Be Careful with Over-the-Counter Medicines Some over-the-counter medicines such as aspirin, acetaminophen (Tylenol), and ibuprofen (Motrin, Advil) are poisonous to cats and should never be given to them except under direction of a veterinarian. In fact, many medicines that are safe for dogs are NOT safe for cats such as Pepto Bismol and even Kaopectate (which was once considered safe). Consult with your veterinarian before giving any medication—even over-the-counter medications—to your cat. Also never use anything with a topical painkiller because it could contain lidocaine.

Diarrhea and Vomiting Changes in diet, overeating, strange water, and nervousness can cause diarrhea but so can feline distemper, internal parasites, rancid food, allergies, bacteria, infections, and other serious ailments. If your cat is dehydrated, has a fever (over 103°F), or has diarrhea, bring your cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Cats vomit for a variety of reasons. Cats will sometimes eat plants and vomit or vomit up hairballs. Cats also vomit due to obstructions, viral and bacterial infections, and other serious illnesses. If your cat vomits more than once, projectile vomits, starts becoming dehydrated, has severe diarrhea along with vomiting, has a fever (over 103°F), has occasional vomiting over weeks or months, or retches without vomiting, bring your cat to the veterinarian immediately.

Hairballs One of the big causes of vomiting is hairballs. Cats groom themselves and swallow a fair amount of hair. Most of the time, the hair passes through the cat and ends up in the litter box. But cats who shed a lot or have long hair may collect a hairball which can’t pass through the digestive tract, and the only way out is up, not down. If your kitty is spitting up hairballs regularly, there are remedies for this. First, keeping your kitty brushed will help with removing the loose hair. If it doesn’t get in, it won’t come out. Second, you can use hairball lubricants that are mostly petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and are tasty to cats. (You can use plain Vaseline as well.) Give your cat hairball lubricants orally by gently rubbing it on her legs and having her lick it off. The stuff coats the hairballs and allows them to pass through the intestines. The other way to get rid of hairballs is to feed the hairball remedy version of your cat’s food. The food works by providing fiber that traps hairballs and carries them through the cat’s intestines. Be careful not to assume the vomiting is hairballs when it isn’t. If your cat retches a lot without coughing up a hairball or strains to poop, you need to bring him to the vet.

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This is a common condition in senior cats due to a growth on the thyroid gland. As a result, the cat’s thyroid produces too much thyroid hormone. This causes: weight loss; increased appetite, thirst, urination, and heart rate; a greasy coat; and increased activity. Bring your cat to the vet if you see these symptoms. Your veterinarian must test your kitty’s thyroid levels. He will either prescribe a drug that will control the hyperthyroidism, remove the thyroid glands, or treat the thyroid with radioactive iodine.

Ringworm Ringworm isn’t a worm at all but a type of fungus. It usually causes hair loss, and the skin may be scaly but not itchy. You will need to bring your cat to the vet to have ringworm diagnosed and treated. Sometimes you can cure ringworm by using antifungal shampoos made for cats. Ringworm is contagious to humans, especially to children, so wash your hands after touching a cat who has ringworm. Use latex gloves when treating your cat to prevent contracting it. If you do contract it, visit your doctor to get ointment for treatment (over-thecounter ringworm medications work well, too). This is a self-limiting condition (which means you and your cat will eventually develop an immunity).

Teeth Problems Cats seem to suffer from a fair number of dental problems including cat cavities (feline oral resorptive lesions or FORL) and gingivitis. Cats over 5 years old need to visit their veterinarians or kitty dentists to check their teeth and to make sure that any kitty cavities are taken care of. Most cats must have their teeth pulled once cavities are found because they’re too small to fill (cats only have four teeth large enough to be drilled and filled). Kitty cavities are very painful and need to be treated to assure a healthy cat. Cats who have a tooth problem may not want to eat, have bad breath or reddened gums, have a lump above a tooth or nasal discharge, may stop eating dry food, prefer canned food, or may act as if in pain. Or

How to Take a Cat’s Temperature Occasionally, you may have to take your cat’s temperature. Buy an ordinary digital rectal thermometer (don’t get it mixed up with the ones your family uses!) and wash it well with soapy water. Sterilize it with isopropyl alcohol. Then, lubricate it with petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Have someone hold the cat while you hold the thermometer and insert it into your cat’s rectum. Keep your cat quiet for about two minutes to get a reading. Don’t allow your cat to sit down while taking the temperature or you could break the thermometer or cause damage to the rectum. Remove and read. Normal temperatures for cats are 100°F to 103°F.

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Hyperthyroidism

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Is Your Cat Too Fat? The truth is that most people’s cats are too fat. It’s hard to resist those soulful eyes at dinnertime, and that little bit of cat food looks woefully inadequate. But being fat isn’t healthy for your cat any more than it is for you. The easiest way to determine if your cat is fat is to look at your cat’s shape. (Don’t rely on the scale—the cat’s health is dependent on fitness not the weight!) There should be a tuck where your cat’s abdomen (waist) is, both in profile and looking from above. Place your thumbs on your cat’s spine and gently feel her ribs. If you have an “amazing ribless cat” or if you can barely feel your cat’s ribs through the heavy padding, your cat is obese and needs to shed some pounds. You should also be able to feel your cat’s hip bones and spine. If your cat is too fat, talk with your veterinarian. He can recommend a diet that’s right for your cat. Don’t put your cat on a crash diet. Loosing weight too rapidly can cause hepatic lipidosis.

they may simply suffer quietly, which is why an annual exam is important. If your cat has any of these symptoms, bring her to the vet for a checkup.

Lumps and Bumps on the Skin Most lumps are benign. You can determine whether the lump is normal by checking the same place on the opposite side of the cat. Usually lumps that appear on both sides of the cat in the same place are normal. Show any suspicious lump or bump to your veterinarian. Lumps that are oozing, red, darkcolored, irregular in size and shape, or swift growing may be serious. If your female cat has lumps on her mammary glands, they may be cancerous mammary tumors requiring surgery. Rapidly growing lumps may be a form of abscess or infection. Your veterinarian must drain the abscess and prescribe antibiotics. Do not attempt to drain the abscess yourself or the wound may become more serious.

Exercise Exercising your cat regularly can help keep her healthy. Like people, cats can become couch potatoes and can be afflicted with diseases due to obesity. Exercise won’t add years to your cat’s genetic life, but it will keep her living longer than if she is inactive. But what exercise is good for her? And do you need a jogging suit? Actually exercise is quite fun for both you and your cat. Playing vigorously with her toys (fishing poles, teasers, and so on) helps alleviate boredom and also keeps her in shape. You can

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Playing with Your Cat Playing with your cat is what you and your cat will enjoy most. Sometimes your kitty will come over and beg to play with you; other times, you’ll have to instigate the play. It’s great fun to watch your cat romping around your house after a feather on a fishing pole or some other toy. You both can have fun playing, and you don’t even need a jogging suit!

Clicker Training Clicker training is a great way to stimulate your cat’s mind as well as her body. Clicker training is a type of operant conditioning, meaning that your kitty learns according to her actions. It’s all positive training; your cat works for treats or stuff she likes. You use a clicker to “mark” the behavior—that is, tell her that she did the right thing. Read more on clicker training in chapter 10.

Teaching Agility It’s not just for dogs anymore! You may have seen agility on TV. Dogs jump over hurdles and go over, under, and through various obstacles and compete against time and each other. Well, here’s a little secret—cats can do it, too. You can set up an agility obstacle course using everyday things such as putting a stick through two chair legs to make a hurdle, setting a box or bucket upside down to make a table, and using a small step stool to make a climbing obstacle.

Grooming Keeping your cat groomed is a sure way to ensure a beautiful and healthy cat. Your cat will have healthier skin and hair, not to mention look beautiful and be sweet smelling. A clean cat is enjoyable to have around. But should you groom your cat yourself or should you hire a professional? Grooming doesn’t just stop at brushing and combing or bathing! Cleaning ears, clipping claws, and brushing your cat’s teeth are all part of grooming.

Should You Hire a Professional Groomer? If you don’t have the time or if your cat has a long coat and is high maintenance, grooming can be a daunting task. If you’re a busy person or your family is busy, paying a groomer to bathe and comb out your cat once every two weeks or once a month isn’t extravagant—it’s a necessity! Be honest with yourself; if you just don’t have time to groom your cat, have an expert do it. But don’t wait until your cat is filthy and her fur is matted. The groomer will

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

try training your cat (no, this is not a joke) to teach her commands and you can even set up a mini kitty agility course.

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104 charge you more for that. Also, a cat with a long coat will cost more than one with a shorter coat or one whose coat has been maintained. How do you find a good professional groomer? Ask other cat owners (and even dog owners) which groomers they use and if they would recommend them. Ask your vet who he or she suggests. Some vets hire a groomer on staff. Once you find a groomer you’re interested in, prescreen them. It’s important to ask questions of a groomer just like a vet. Contact the groomer and ask what certifications he or she has. Although there are many good groomers without certifications, you may wish to only have a groomer who is certified. Ask what services he or she performs (for example, some groomers will trim claws and clean ears). Ask the groomer how many clients he or she regularly sees. Ask if he or she grooms cats and how many. Ask how he or she makes the animals comfortable. Get references and call them. Be aware that some groomers tranquilize cats, especially if the cat is difficult to work on. In most cases, it’s better to use a groomer who doesn’t tranquilize. Once you’ve prescreened a groomer, visit the grooming shop. If the groomer is especially busy, you’ll see hair and water on the floor, but otherwise the grooming shop should be neat and orderly. Watch how the groomer and staff (if there are any) handle the cats. Are they gentle or rough? If there are cage dryers, does the groomer check on the animals in them frequently? Some heated cage dryers overheat pets. Lastly, does the groomer have enough room to put all the animals in adequate cages? Consider a mobile groomer, too. These groomers come to you and do the grooming outside your home in their van.

Grooming Your Cat’s Coat Breeds have diverse coats and varying needs. Short-haired cats need different grooming than long-haired cats. How often you groom your cat depends on the type of coat, whether he is shedding, and how dirty he is. Naturally, a dirty cat requires grooming. Cats with long coats will need more grooming than cats with short coats. Regardless of the coat, you’ll need to brush and comb your cat at least weekly.

Grooming Implements Review the following list of standard supplies you need for grooming your cat:

• • • •

Blow-dryer with a cool setting—this ensures you won’t burn your cat’s skin Shampoo and conditioner formulated for cats Flea comb Comb with fine teeth for a short-haired cat; with medium teeth for a long-haired cat

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Mats in the fur, that is, tangles that occur in the fur, make it a terrible mess and are very distressing for your kitty. However, what you do about them may be just as distressing. If you find a tangle, try to carefully comb it out. If it will not come out, you will need to use a guarded clipper (an electric hair clipper with a guard to protect the skin) to remove the mat. Do NOT use scissors! (Many people, the author included, have cut an animal’s skin trying to remove mats with scissors). If you don’t have a clipper, ask a groomer or veterinarian to help you remove the mat. Most vets and groomers will be happy to help you and your cat.

• • • •

Nail clippers (scissors style) for cat, not guillotine style (not dog clippers) Slicker brush (for short-haired) or pin brush (for long-haired) Styptic powder Toothpaste and toothbrush for cats

Brushing and Combing Start at your cat’s head and begin by combing through your cat’s coat from head to tail. If you have a tangled long-haired cat, start combing at the end of the hair and then, if it’s not tangled, move toward the hair shaft and comb from mid-shaft out. Finally, move from the base of the hair and comb out. You can then finish the combing by taking a brush (slicker or pin depending on your cat’s coat) and brushing it out. If your cat is a short-haired cat, getting a grooming mitt (available at pet supply stores) or a gardener’s gloves with little nubs and running your hands over the cat’s body is often enough.

Baths Your cat won’t die if she touches water—no matter what she tells you! Bathe your cat only when she needs it. However, since most cats hate this, here are some tips to follow when bathing your cat:

• • • • • • •

Never leave a cat alone in a bath. Use a restraining device while you wash her. If your cat is hard to handle during a bath, a restraining device may make the next bath a bit easier. Be certain that the water is tepid to touch. Consider putting a small piece of cotton in each of your cat’s ears so that the water doesn’t get in them. Brush your cat out and then bathe her with a good pH-balanced shampoo for cats. Although it’s tempting, you should never bathe a cat without first brushing her out. Long hair is prone to tangles and will mat worse if you wet it. Use shampoo made for cats; shampoo for humans can dry out a cat’s skin. In an emergency, baby shampoo will work. Follow the shampooing with a conditioner made for cats.

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

What to Do about Mats

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• • •

Rinse your cat really well because the soap and conditioner will attract dirt. Pat down your cat with thick towels and keep her away from drafts. Use a hair blow-dryer set to no heat to dry your cat. Don’t use the warm hair dryer settings as these are too hot and will burn your cat’s skin.

Kitty Dental Care Your kitty has two sets of teeth while growing up. The first set, called kitten teeth, drop out when she is 3 or 4 months old so the adult teeth can come in. Cats suffer dental problems such as cavities, tartar, and gum disease like humans and infected teeth can cause severe health problems, including heart problems, in your cat. Professional teeth cleaning requires anesthesia and its associated risks—not to mention expense! Many vets recommend brushing your cat’s teeth every day with toothpaste specially formulated for pets. Many pet owners don’t have the time or patience to do that, so I recommend brushing your cat’s teeth twice a week to reduce plaque that leads to tartar. If your cat has good teeth (and healthy teeth and gums largely depend on genetics and diet), you might be able to get away with brushing her teeth less, but that’s inadvisable. If your cat isn’t used to having his mouth handled, you won’t be successful in brushing his teeth. To get him used to the process, start by holding your cat’s head gently, flipping up his lip, and touching his teeth and gums. Do this gently and praise him. Practice this often, so he becomes used to you touching his mouth. After he becomes accustomed to this, get a soft washcloth and wet a corner of it. Now, with your finger, gently massage your cat’s gums with the tip of the washcloth. Do this lightly with each gum for a few seconds. After your cat is comfortable with you using the washcloth to massage his gums, you can purchase a toothbrush and toothpaste for cats, which are available at pet supply stores and through mail-order and Internet pet-supply companies. You must use toothpaste formulated for pets as human toothpaste is poisonous to cats. Most pet toothpastes are chicken

Recognizing a Tooth or Gum Problem Learn to recognize potential warning signs, which suggest it’s time to visit the vet:

• • • • • • •

Bad breath Loss of appetite Lump above or below a particular tooth Nasal discharge Red, swollen gums Sudden, unexpected chewing on inappropriate items Sudden preference for canned food

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These are the signs of potential ear problems that suggest it’s time to visit the vet:

• • • • • • •

Foul odor coming from the ears Black, waxy buildup Blisters or abrasions on ears Your cat hisses or moves away when you touch her ears. Crusty or red ears Excessive waxy buildup Your cat scratches at, paws, or shakes her head.

or malt flavored, so the taste is appealing. As a rule, only the outside of the cat’s mouth needs to be brushed. The sharp barbs on the tongue usually keep the inside of the teeth clean. Just brush the outside of the cat’s teeth for a few moments to loosen any tartar and prevent gingivitis.

Cleaning Your Cat’s Ears Some cats develop ear problems frequently; others never seem to have a problem. Regardless, you should keep your cat’s ears clean and they should smell sweet. If there is an odor, your cat probably has an infection. Clean your cat’s ears when they appear to be dirty or if wax is building up. If your cat has matter that looks like coffee grounds in his ears, he most likely has ear mites or an infection. A healthy cat’s ears don’t usually get waxy or gunky unless there’s a problem. Take sterile gauze or cotton balls and gently wipe any wax. If you detect an odor, don’t use insecticides or mite treatments as this can cause irritation. See your vet for the appropriate treatment.

Clipping Your Cat’s Claws Just like baths, most cats hate having their claws clipped. You can minimize the stress by getting your cat used to you handling her feet. Start by touching and picking up each foot gently. For the first few times, it may be no longer than a few seconds. Gradually, increase the time you hold your cat’s feet. Clip your cat’s nails once a week to keep them short and healthy. By keeping them short, you can help reduce unwanted scratching. Cats have a pink part where nerves and blood supply to the nail is, called the quick. When you start clipping your cat’s claws, use a cat nail clipper (scissors-style action) and snip

Keeping Your Cat Healthy

Recognizing an Ear Problem

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108 off only the hooked part of the nail so you don’t cut the quick. If your cat’s nails are dark, you have to make an educated guess where the quick is. If you cut into the quick, your cat will let you know in no uncertain terms—and won’t want you near her paws again! She’ll also bleed profusely. Be sure to have styptic powder or sodium nitrate on hand, in case you do cut the quick. Packing the nail with styptic powder will stop the bleeding. You can buy it at pet supply stores or through pet supply catalogues. However, if the nail feels “spongy” or hard to cut, stop immediately.

Socializing Socializing your cat is very important for her mental health and well-being. Like exercising, socializing your cat isn’t done just once and it’s over. To have a well-socialized cat, she must frequently interact with people. Otherwise, she will become used to not seeing and doing new things and will slip into fearful reactions toward the unknown. Cats are pretty much homebodies. Unlike dogs who are usually up for new places and things, cats are more territorial and would rather have the universe come to them. At the same time, unless you’re planning on showing your cat, you’re probably not going to be taking your kitty on car rides except to the vet. This doesn’t mean that you can’t bring your kitty in the car to places that are interesting and fun (like a safe park—keep your kitty in a harness and on a leash at all times and keep her vaccinations up-to-date!). You can also have people and other pets come to you to visit and meet your kitty. (Again, keep your kitty’s vaccinations up-to-date if she’s in contact with other animals.) If your kitty is fearful, you should take socialization very slowly. Don’t force your cat into situations where she is frightened or fearful or you will just increase the fear and you may create a worse problem. If your cat is afraid of strangers, start by having someone visit but ignore the cat—forcing your kitty to come out will just convince her that strangers are indeed scary. As she becomes more comfortable and comes out of her hiding place, let her instigate interaction. Usually this takes time and patience in desensitizing. A professional trainer can help.

What You Now Know . . . Your cat needs proper nutrition from a cat food that is complete and balanced to AAFCO nutritional standards. You are the first line of defense in your cat’s health. You need to examine her weekly to make sure she is healthy. Spaying or neutering will make your cat into a healthier and happier pet. Consult with your veterinarian on the right course to declare war on fleas and ticks. Exercise will help your cat live a long and healthy life. Grooming will help keep your cat’s coat healthy and looking good.

Chapter 8 What’s Inside . . . Learn what to put in a firstaid kit. Learn what constitutes an emergency in cats. Learn what to do in case of an emergency. Learn how to prepare for a disaster.

Emergencies

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mergencies are scary, but you can be ready for them if you plan ahead of time. The main thing is, don’t panic. Your cat is relying on you to remain levelheaded and calm during this time. You need to take charge for the sake of your cat’s health and well-being. In most emergencies, time is of the essence and you’ll need to get your cat to a veterinarian as soon as possible. You’ll need to know where the nearest emergency veterinarian is as well as your vet’s after-hours emergency numbers (if he has them). Keep these numbers taped to the phone or on the speed dial in case of an emergency.

Emergency Checklist How do you know you should bring your cat to the vet? And how do you know if this is an emergency? Use the following list as a guideline. Go to the vet immediately (even if it’s an emergency vet) if your cat: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Isn’t breathing or has difficulty breathing Is shaky or weak Has collapsed Exhibits extreme and rapid swelling on the face, body, stomach, or legs Shows gums that are gray or sticky Has been burned Displays underlying tissues, broken bones, or severely injured legs Is bleeding profusely Has been electrocuted Has been hit by a car 109

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110 □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Is having a seizure Shows a temperature below 99.5°F or over 103°F Is in obvious pain or distress Is shocky Repeatedly vomits or exhibits vomiting associated with lethargy or abdominal pain Has forceful or bloody diarrhea Is dehydrated Is suffering from heatstroke Has frostbite Is known to have eaten something poisonous Was bitten by a poisonous snake or insect Was attacked by a dog or predator even if there’s no obvious injury Is recovering from a fall or jump even if there’s no obvious injury

A general rule for emergencies is that if you think this is an emergency, it probably is. If there is still some question in your mind, try calling your vet or emergency veterinarian and ask. What conditions aren’t quite emergencies but still need a vet’s attention as soon as practical? Some are easy to figure out; others aren’t so easy. Let’s look at some of them. Take action if your cat:

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Suddenly starts going outside the litter box Ignores his meals for the day Continues mild diarrhea or vomiting Coughs Limps Develops a strange lump or bump Itches or develops a rash Starts to lose hair Drinks excessive water Shakes his head or paws his ears Has unusual discharge from the nose, eyes, or other mucus membranes Is sensitive to light Has cloudy eyes Acts reluctant to do things he normally likes doing Hides or unexpectedly rejects touch Suddenly changes behavior (starts biting, hides, etc.)

In these situations, anything that appears unusual is probably a reason to bring your cat to the veterinarian as soon as practical. If you notice something out of the ordinary that doesn’t appear to be an emergency, make an appointment as soon as you can to get your cat checked out. If you aren’t sure if the problem is an emergency, contact your vet (or an emergency vet) and ask.

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Primary Veterinarian ______________________________________________________ Primary Veterinarian’s On-Call Number _______________________________________ Secondary Veterinarian ____________________________________________________ Emergency Clinic ________________________________________________________ Emergency Clinic ________________________________________________________ Local Poison Control Hotline _______________________________________________ ASPCA / Animal Poison Control Hotline _____________________________________

How to Restrain Your Cat No matter how sweet and loving your kitty is, when she’s hurt and in pain, she’s not going to cooperate. Cats can be very dangerous when in pain. Your sweet kitty could do some serious damage with her claws and teeth. So, what do you do to safely transport her to get her help? If you can, invest in a good cat muzzle. (Dog muzzles do not work on cats, and cats have short enough heads that muzzling techniques with ties or rope do not work). Before you muzzle, check her breathing and her temperature. You do not want to muzzle a cat who is having difficulty breathing or who is overheated or has a neck injury. But teeth are only part of the problem. The other part is your kitty’s claws, which are guaranteed to be flashing at you. If your cat is frightened and injured, putting a towel over your cat and then sliding her into a carrier or a cardboard box might be the only way to get her to the vet. Do not confine an overheated cat or one who has difficulty breathing.

Assembling a First-Aid Kit First-aid kits aren’t just for people. Cats need them, too, with their own supplies. When you put together a first-aid kit for your cat, be sure it is someplace where you’ll use it. Have one at home and one in the car for when you travel. Be sure to put in the following items:

• •

Your veterinarian’s phone number, pager, or after-hours number Emergency veterinary hospital’s phone number

Emergencies

Emergency Veterinarian Numbers

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• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Local poison control center phone number and ASPCA/Animal Poison Control Number Bandage scissors Bandage tape Betadine solution Disposable latex gloves Hydrogen peroxide Kaolin (diarrhea) product formulated for cats and dogs. Do not give Kaopectate or Pepto Bismol as they contain salicylates and are unsafe for cats. Large and small nonstick bandage pads Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Pressure bandages Cat muzzle Rectal thermometer Self-adhesive wrap (VetWrap or Elastaplast) Sterile gauze wrappings Sterile sponges Surgical glue or VetBond (available through veterinary supply catalogs) Syrup of ipecac (only use under a vet’s direction) Triple antibiotic ointment or nitrofurizone (available through veterinary supply catalogs; do not buy the kind with the pain relief agent in it) Tweezers Unflavored pediatric electrolyte

Never use anything that contains lidocaine on a cat. Over-the-counter products that contain painkillers or nerve-deadening ingredients probably contain lidocaine.

High-Rise Syndrome If you live in a tall building (or even if you don’t) be very cautious about the screens and balconies in your home. While cats may indeed be lucky and have nine lives, a cat can easily forget she’s in a tall building and see things blow by or spot birds and try to chase them—often with serious or even fatal results. Cats can accidentally push out screens and fall or leap off a balcony. If you have a balcony, keep your cat safe and away from the edge with an enclosure that allows her to enjoy the outdoors safely. Inside, make sure your screens are strong and don’t easily push out or keep the window closed enough so your cat can’t touch the screen.

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Although you do everything you can to protect your kitty, you still may run into some of the problems listed below. Here are some ways to treat and transport your cat when necessary; just be sure to consult a vet if indicated.

Broken Bones or Hit by a Car Fractures to the head, chest, or back may be life threatening. You’ll know there are broken bones or fractures because you’ll see bones protruding from the skin, your cat acting in severe pain or dragging a leg, or the skin looking wrong. Even if your cat looks okay but has been hit by a car, assume he has broken bones. Use a stiff board to transport the cat (slide the board under the cat) and seek immediate veterinary attention.

Burns A severe burn, where the skin is charred or where underlying tissue is exposed, requires immediate veterinary attention. Often you can’t tell the extent of the burn beneath the fur so take your kitty to the vet regardless. You can treat minor burns over a small area with ice packs or cold water. Do not use water on extensive burns or you may risk shock. Aloe vera is a good burn treatment after the burn has blistered. Don’t put any ointments, medication, sunburn treatment, or butter on the wound.

Choking or Difficulty Breathing Signs of choking and breathing difficulty include gagging, coughing, gums and tongue turning pale or blue, and wheezing. Do not muzzle your cat, and seek immediate veterinary attention. Remove your cat’s collar and anything else that might restrict breathing. Check your cat’s throat for any object caught in the throat. If you see something that you can remove with tweezers, do so. Don’t stick your fingers in your cat’s mouth to remove the object if he is conscious; you can accidentally push the item farther down or be bitten. If the item is lodged in the throat, try pushing gently on the cat’s abdomen to expel the object. Be careful; too much pressure could break ribs or cause internal injuries. The Heimlich maneuver can also be performed on a cat by holding her upside down with her back against you. Compress the abdomen just under the rib cage by pushing the fist in a quick upward manner. If your cat has stopped breathing, the only way to save her life is to give mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. Make certain your cat’s airway is clear. Close her mouth, hold her jaws together, and blow gently into her nose. Don’t blow hard or overinflate her lungs, or you may rupture a lung. Her side should move only as if she were breathing. Now release and let the air leave the lungs. Breathe in again and release. Continue to do this until your cat is breathing on her own. Then go immediately to the vet. Ask your veterinarian how to perform CPR correctly. Red Cross also offers a pet CPR course.

Emergencies

Treatments and Transport for Common Cat Injuries

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Cuts and Injuries You can clean minor cuts and scrapes yourself with clean tap water. Then apply a triple antibiotic ointment and watch for signs of infection. Seek veterinary attention if you see reddening, inflammation, or signs of infection such as oozing pus. Severe cuts and lacerations will most likely require suturing. Use pressure bandages to slow or stop the bleeding, except in severe crushing injuries. If injuries are severe, such as from a car accident, there may be internal bleeding. Use a stiff board for transport and seek veterinary attention. In the case of arterial bleeding, the blood is bright red and sprays out with each heartbeat. Use pressure bandages and apply pressure directly to the artery. Seek immediate veterinary attention. For deep puncture wounds, determine the depth of the puncture. If the object is still embedded, do not remove (if practical) and seek immediate veterinary treatment. If the puncture is an animal bite that is not serious, you can clean the wound with a solution of one part hydrogen peroxide to five parts water. Bring the cat to your veterinarian as soon as practical if the bite is not serious. Your veterinarian might want to prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection. Be certain that both your cat and (if possible) the biting animal have had their current rabies vaccinations. If the bite is serious, seek veterinary assistance.

Dehydration and Heatstroke Signs of dehydration and heatstroke include elevated temperature, extreme thirst, watery diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, high temperature (over 103°F), skin around the cheeks or neck that does not snap back when pinched, difficulty breathing, weakness, and pale gums. Note: Dehydration can occur during any season. The onset of heatstroke is very sudden and sometimes it takes only a few minutes to become an emergency situation. Blood pressure falls; mucous membranes turn icy blue; the cat becomes confused, staggers, is comatose, and then dies. Seconds count with heatstroke, so it’s very important to cool the cat down as quickly as possible. Get the cat to someplace cool and shady. Pour cool water over her body and head or if possible, submerge her body in a tub or tank. Fan her and lift her coat with your fingers so that her skin will directly benefit from the cooling breeze and water. Don’t apply ice or ice water because that will tend to close skin pores, shrink her skin’s surface vessels, and exacerbate the heatstroke. When she comes around, give her small quantities of water to drink or pediatric electrolyte solution and repeat as often as she wants. If possible, measure her body temperature with a thermometer and stop the physical cooling process when her body reaches about

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The most common cause of heatstroke is leaving a cat in a car. Even with the windows cracked, the glass of the car magnifies the sun and the inside can reach deadly temperatures even when the day is overcast and the outdoor temperature is moderate.

Electrocution If your cat is still touching the source of electricity, do not touch your cat or you might also be shocked. Use a wooden broom handle or other nonconductive item to unplug the cord. Treat as you would for traumatic shock (see later section on shock) by maintaining proper body temperature and seek veterinary treatment immediately even if the cat appears to be okay as the lungs will probably start filling with fluid within hours of the accident. Administer mouth-to-mouth resuscitation as described in the section “Choking or Difficulty Breathing.”

Frostbite and Hypothermia Signs of hypothermia include lowered body temperature, shivering, and lethargy, followed by stupor, shock, unconsciousness, and finally death. Lack of food for energy and dehydration can greatly affect your cat’s ability to keep warm. Treatment for hypothermia is mostly common sense. Warm your cat slowly by wrapping him in blankets or lying next to him in blankets. If he is conscious, you should offer him warm broth to drink. Seek immediate veterinary attention. Frostbite is skin damage as a result of cold. The skin will turn white and, if severe, will actually turn black. Sometimes the affected skin will slough, leaving a raw sore. If the skin is white and intact, warm it slowly in tepid (not hot) water to avoid further damage. It will be painful to warm the skin. For frostbite with sores, wrap with an antibiotic ointment and gauze. In all cases of frostbite, seek veterinary attention.

Insect Bites and Stings You can treat most insect bites and stings with an over-the-counter antihistamine (ask your vet about dosages and what types are best). If your cat shows any allergic reactions to bites or stings (severe swelling or difficulty breathing), seek immediate veterinary attention. This can be a life-threatening condition known as an anaphylactic reaction. Spider bites can be very serious. The two most dangerous spiders are the black widow and the brown recluse. Both of these spider’s bites can be fatal if left untreated. If you suspect a spider has bitten your cat, seek veterinary attention. Look for swelling with a black widow bite. To detect a brown recluse bite, you’ll have to part the hair and look for unusual discoloration. Most animals have neurological problems after a black widow bite, which may mimic poison. With a brown recluse, you may not see much until the skin dies off.

Emergencies

103°F, because the cooling will continue after you take her from the water and your target temperature is about 100°F.

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Poisoning Contact your veterinarian or local poison control center and have available the substance or chemical that your cat has ingested so that you can properly describe the poison. Follow their instructions. Do not induce vomiting unless told to do so. Some acids, alkalis, and other substances can harm your cat more if they come back up. Poisons have a multitude of symptoms: unsteadiness, burns around the mouth, repeated vomiting, repeated diarrhea, lethargy, change in pupil size, respiratory problems, drooling, nervousness, seizures, coma, or paralysis. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center number is (800) 342-9293. There is a one-time charge per case. If the poison is a commercial product, some manufacturers will pay for the call. If your cat has rubbed up against something nasty, use Dawn dishwashing liquid to wash your cat and rinse thoroughly. Tar and paint can be removed with mineral oil or Vaseline. Use a sterile saline solution to rinse anything out of the eyes.

Shock Signs of shock include pale mucous membranes, slow respiratory rate, weak pulse, and unconsciousness. Keep cat quiet and try to attain normal body temperature. That means if the cat is cold, keep her warm and vice versa. Get the cat immediate veterinary attention.

Family Disaster Planning Pet owners must prepare not only for injuries and severe illnesses, but also for disasters such as wildfires, floods, tornados, hurricanes, and even terrorist attacks. Your cat is relying on you to keep her healthy and safe. Be prepared and plan your strategy now before trouble hits. For most of us with pets, the thought of leaving our best friends behind is intolerable at best. But shelters set up by the American Red Cross won’t take pets (although they do accept service dogs). Where will you stay if you have to leave your home and take your pets with you? Locate friends or family out of the potential disaster area who will take you and your pets. (Don’t assume they will be willing to do so, only to find out later that they won’t! Ask now before you’re forced into a bad situation.) If you don’t have family or friends where you can stay, have a listing of hotels and motels within a certain radius of your house (five, ten, twenty-five miles, etc.) that will allow pets. Also locate kennels that are outside the potential disaster area in case you must stay in a place that doesn’t allow pets. A last resort can be to contact shelters and find out if they can care for your pets in an emergency. Unfortunately, shelters are frequently crowded and usually have pets that have already been displaced.

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What You Now Know . . . Seek veterinary advice if you’re unsure whether the situation is an emergency. Keep a pet first-aid kit available in your home and car in case of an emergency. Have a list of emergency vets in your area in case your veterinarian can’t see your pet. Plan ahead for disasters so that you are not caught unaware. Know how to care for your cat in an emergency. Always seek veterinary attention.

Emergencies

Usually families have advance warning before a disaster hits. If you do, make plans to get both your family and your pets out of the area. The problem is that once the disaster hits, it’s going to be very difficult to find places to stay. It’s better to leave when you can and not at the last minute. Have a disaster preparedness checklist, such as the example provided in the appendix, for your family and your pet and make sure you take all important items with you when you leave.

Chapter 9 What’s Inside . . . Learn what type of litter is best for your cat. Learn where the best place is to put your cat’s litter box. Learn how to stop litter box problems before they start. Learn how to recognize whether a litter box problem is biological or behavioral.

Litter Box Behavior

S

o, how do you teach your kitty to go in the litter box? The good news is that your kitty is hardwired to use the litter box. When you first bring home your kitten or cat, immediately set him in the litter box. He’s likely to walk away. That’s okay. He now knows where the potty is. Wasn’t that easy? If your kitty does go outside his litter box, clean up the mess with a good enzymatic cleaner and take any poop and put it in the litter box. This should signal to your cat where he needs to go.

Types of Litter Chapter 3 discusses various types of litter, including:

• • • • •

Clay litter Clumping clay litter Crystal or silica gel litter Corn or wheat litter Paper or wood pellet litter

All of these litters have their pluses and minuses. They come in scented and unscented. However, no matter what you think your kitty should have as his litter, it’s really his choice. If you make the wrong choice, your kitty will let you know in no uncertain terms and he won’t use his litter box. So, get it right and both you and your kitty will be happy.

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120 What do cats look for in litter? Well, it’s really a matter of preference. If your kitty is used to a particular litter, you should probably use that (cats like consistency first and foremost). Ask the former owner or shelter. However, most cats like litter that feels soft and squishy to their paws, which eliminates most standard clay litter and paper or wood pellet litter. Standard clay litter often has sharp edges, making it feel as pleasant as walking across gravel in your bare feet. Paper and wood pellet litter frequently have large pieces that your kitty can’t dig into. But if your kitty uses these already, there’s no reason to switch unless you really want him to or he’s not happy with the current setup. Don’t use clumping clay litter for young or small kittens because it can be a health hazard to them. If you really want to annoy your cat, switch litter constantly. He’ll find a much more consistent corner of the house to do his business in than the litter box. Once, I made the mistake of changing to crystals all at once in Hailey’s litter box. She looked at the litter box and looked at me as if to say, “What is this?” If you must switch litter, do so gradually. Start with 10 percent new litter and 90 percent current litter and then, after a few days, remove some of the old litter and add more of the new litter. Do this a little at a time until you’ve completely switched to your cat’s new litter.

The Nose Knows Most cats don’t like tons of perfume when it comes to their litter box, so skip the scented litter. Instead, plan on scooping every day to eliminate odor and cleaning the litter box once a week if using standard clay litter and paper litter, and once a month if using crystal, clumping, or corn litter. Avoid the litter box fresheners, too. They’re a sure way to have your kitty turn his nose up at the litter box and search for something less smelly. But that doesn’t mean kitty likes a smelly litter box either. In fact, if you can smell your kitty’s litter box, I guarantee he thinks it’s nasty. He doesn’t want to use a stinky litter box any more than you like using a filthy bathroom. He doesn’t like having to step over poop or into a wet spot of urine. To keep your kitty using the litter box, you need to scoop the litter every day or more often, if you feel inclined.

Litter Boxes and Other Technicalities Cats don’t ask a lot from their litter box, but they do require it to be available and userfriendly. That means that your cat has to feel comfortable using the litter box. It has to be the right size for him—if he’s a kitten, going to the potty can’t be an expedition to Mount Everest. If he’s a big cat, he can’t feel cramped by the enclosure. If your kitty likes to hang out afterward, he may be convinced that his litter box is possessed when the automatic litter box starts its cleaning cycle.

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Dogs find litter box contents to be extraordinarily yummy, but they can be extremely hazardous to your pooch. Clumping litter can cause a dangerous obstruction in his intestines, and eating litter isn’t good for a dog anyway. It’s a good way for your dog to possibly pick up parasites from your cat. Besides, it’s gross.

Choose a litter box that works for your cat. It can even be a litter pan that you can toss after a month of use (so you don’t have to scrub it out!). The main thing is that the litter box be something that your cat will be able to use in relative comfort. Be certain it is big enough (or small enough) for your cat to use without having difficulties. See chapter 3 for more details. One thing that most people love and most cats hate is litter box liners. They make cleaning the litter box a breeze by containing the litter in its own bag, unless the cat scratches a hole in bag, which makes it a really nasty mess. Pull the drawstring tight and toss. Lay down another liner and litter. What could be easier? If you own a cat who doesn’t mind, consider yourself lucky. But most cats don’t like liners so don’t be surprised if your cat tells you in no uncertain terms that he doesn’t like it by going somewhere else.

Where to Put the Litter Box Another decision you must make is where to put the litter box. It needs to be somewhere in an out-of-the-way place that is still accessible to your cat. Like you, your cat will enjoy a little privacy when he’s going potty. That means it needs to be in a place where he can’t be disturbed by kids or other pets (namely dogs) or bully cats. In fact, if you have a dog, you need to keep the litter box away from the dog entirely. Dogs find cat poop to be tasty and will munch down litter box contents if given the chance. Some people solve this problem by putting the cat’s litter box in a closet and installing a cat door that is big enough for the cat, but not the dog. You will need to have a litter box for each level in the house (in case your cat gets stuck on one level). If you have more than one cat, you should have one litter box per cat to avoid bullying. (Yes, some cats hog the litter box.) Also, make sure it’s in a quiet place. The clothes dryer or furnace cranking on could scare him into finding his own facilities. To show your cat the litter box in its location, put the cat in the litter box and let him walk away. Yes, that’s it. If you have an open floor plan, there isn’t any problem with leaving the litter box out in the open (as long as you don’t have any dogs or toddlers). Otherwise, you’re going to have to put the litter box in a closet and install a cat door.

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Cleaning Up Accidents Accidents can and do occur. Before you invest in fancy cleaners and expensive carpet cleaning machines, you need to know how to stop accidents from reoccurring in the same place. Cat’s noses are very sensitive to the smell of urine, which is mostly ammonia. That means that if you use a cleaner with ammonia, you’ll enhance the smell of the urine—not eliminate it. Detergents and other cleaners often hide the smell from our noses, but you won’t fool a cat’s nose. His nose will tell him that he has used the spot and he will continue to return to it. So how do you clean up a mess? You use something that will eliminate the smell entirely. Two things that work extremely well are white vinegar and water and enzymatic cleaners. (Keep both on hand.) Vinegar helps neutralize the odor by its acidic content. Enzymatic cleaners (available through any pet supply retailer) will break down the urine and feces and will eliminate the odor in that way. When your cat has an accident, clean it up using liquid soap and water and then follow it up with white vinegar and water or a professional enzymatic cleaner. If you want to use some sort of carpet or air freshener, you can. Just make sure it’s not ammonia-based. If you smell an accident or if one slipped by your notice, you can still find it and treat it. Several makers of enzymatic cleaners have black lights (an ordinary black light will do, too) to fluoresce the urine when shined on the patch. You can then treat the area with enzymatic cleaner. Remember, if a cat who has had perfect litter box manners suddenly starts going outside the box, take him to the vet immediately.

Solving Litter Box Problems Despite being easy to train to the litter box, the number one reason people bring cats to shelters is litter box problems. It doesn’t have to be that way, but unfortunately it is. In many cases, it’s not the cat’s fault. The cat may have a health problem which causes him to think that using the litter box is a bad idea. He may not like his litter box or the way it is set up, or he may not like his litter.

Discovering Whether Your Cat Has a Health or a Behavior Problem Your cat has stopped using the litter box and you’re wondering what to do. Before you start retraining him, you need to determine if the elimination problems exist because of health reasons or a behavior problem. Believe it or not, many problems that appear to be behavioral are actually biological in nature. Your cat may have the following problems that cause him to relieve himself outside the litter box:

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Diarrhea Kidney or bladder infection or problems (including stones) Incontinence Diabetes mellitus

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Before you try retraining, have your veterinarian give your cat a thorough examination, even if you’re certain it’s a behavioral problem. Even if your veterinarian doesn’t find something, keep an eye out for possible health problems like blood in the urine (overly dark urine) or intestinal problems. It very well could’ve been missed in an earlier exam. Strange but true, many cats blame the litter box for pain experienced while urinating or defecating. The cat doesn’t realize the problem is with him but rather thinks there’s something wrong with the litter box. So, you must first fix the problem and then retrain your cat to use the litter box. Health problems require retraining usually because the cat remembers the area he has gone in. But unlike a behavior problem, you can’t train away a health problem—only your vet can help fix that. This is why you must take your cat to a vet first before you start retraining. Otherwise, the effort is useless and frustrating. Don’t try to cure your cat yourself. Once the health problem is fixed or at least on the mend, you must retrain your cat to use the right area, which is the same as boundary training. Cats usually pick one or two spots to use when they’re convinced the litter box isn’t the right place. Clean up the area where your cat goes and then use Sticky Paws, SssCat!, Scat Mats, or some sort of spray aversive to keep your cat away from the undesired area. Make sure the litter box is clean and that it’s available to him. Occasionally, you’ll have to move the litter box closer to the area where he has been going so that he gets the idea he needs to use it and not the floor. Then, once he starts using the litter box again, you can start moving it to a place you’d prefer.

Determining the Cause of the Problem There are two types of peeing outside the litter box. One is spraying, that is, urinating on vertical surfaces. This is how cats mark their territory. The main culprits who spray are intact males and females. In this case, the best thing you can do is spay or neuter them. If your cat is still spraying, there’s usually a good reason for it. If he is anxious about outside cats he can see (even though he is exclusively indoors) and because cats are territorial, he is trying to tell those rude interlopers that this is his place. But that doesn’t help you much! What you need to do is first vanquish the sight of the outdoor cats. That requires putting smelly anti-cat stuff outside to shoo away the troublemakers. (Keeping your kitty away from their sight also helps). You can use Feliway products to further discourage his spraying. If this doesn’t work, try talking with your veterinarian about possible medications that might help calm him. Cats also spray when something new upsets them. Do you have a new puppy or boyfriend, or have you moved? Maybe you rearranged the furniture. Use calming scents such as Feliway

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124 products in areas where he’s spraying. Again, if this doesn’t work, try talking with your veterinarian about possible medications that might help soothe him. If your cat is peeing and pooping in a particular spot, that isn’t spraying. Your cat has decided for some reason his litter box doesn’t look quite as good. Try to figure out why he’s using the floor instead of his litter box. Does he have a health problem? (See “Discovering Whether Your Cat Has a Health or a Behavioral Problem” earlier in this chapter.) Is his litter box smelly and dirty? (This is a common reason.) Is his litter box in a hard-to-reach place? Is your cat too big for the litter box? These are valid reasons (at least to your cat) why he isn’t using the litter box. Start by cleaning up the mess with a good enzymatic cleaner and then use some kind of boundary training (Sticky Paws, Scat Mats, and so on) to keep him from the place he was peeing in. Then make his litter box attractive (clean, with the kind of litter he likes). If you can, consider putting a litter box near where he was peeing so it becomes a more attractive alternative and then slowly move it back to where you want it.

When Your Cat Is Trying to Tell You Something Sometimes your cat will try to get his point across with pee (that’s the trouble with a limited verbal vocabulary!). He may be trying to tell you that he hurts when he pees and he thinks the litter box is at fault. He may be trying to tell you that he hates the new litter in his litter box. He may be telling you that there are strange cats outside and they’re making him nervous. When your cat stops using the litter box, there’s a reason for it. Take him to the veterinarian and if there’s no apparent cause, start by looking at why he won’t use his litter box. If you still have problems determining the cause, consult with a feline behaviorist.

What You Now Know . . . Cats usually come litter box trained. Place your cat’s litter box in an out-of-the-way place for privacy, but be sure that he can get to it. Multiple cats require multiple litter boxes. Choose the litter your cat likes best. There’s usually a good reason for litter box problems. They include health, behavior, and litter problems.

Chapter 10 What’s Inside . . . Learn how you can train a cat. Learn why training a cat isn’t frivolous. Teach your cat agility. Teach your cat new games.

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an you train a cat? Why would you want to? Those questions are probably on your mind. After all, cats are, well, like cats. If you wanted a truly trainable pet, you have a dog, right? Well, yes and no. People get cats because they are an easier pet to own than a dog (although far from being a furry houseplant!) but are just as loving. And cats are cool, no question about it. Your relationship with your kitty will most likely be wonderful even if you never teach her a single “sit” or “come.” So why bother? First of all, it’s fun! Both you and your kitty will enjoy the challenge of having her learn new things. Your kitty will enjoy using her mind and you’ll have fun teaching your kitty to do silly things that will impress and wow your friends. Second, it improves the bond between you and your cat. By working with your cat, you have your kitty look to you for direction—not just for food or for playtime. Believe it or not, cats love learning new things.

Clicker Training for Kitty How do you train a cat? Sounds like a setup for a joke, doesn’t it? But it’s not. There is a type of training that cats do well with and that’s clicker training. I’ve had the fortune of watching trainers at a particular zoo use a form of clicker training to teach their tigers to go to their special spot when the handlers need to feed or move them. Tigers are, by nature, very dangerous animals and a zookeeper can’t force a tiger to do anything. (And they sure as heck aren’t going to spank a tiger!)

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Clicker Tools Clicker (you can get one at a pet supply store or house or go to Karen Pryor’s website at www.karenpryor.com) Target stick (a pen or pencil) Treats

With clicker training, you use a little device called the clicker. It looks like a box with a little metal button that you push down. That little metal button makes a loud and definite click. Clicker training uses both operant conditioning (a method where the cat learns something according to her actions) and positive reinforcement (when she receives a reward because her action was correct). With the clicker, you teach your cat to associate the sound of the click with a treat. When your cat does something right, you click and treat. When she performs a behavior you don’t want, you ignore it. Sounds pretty simple, doesn’t it? Clicking works much the same as praise does, although instead of saying “good cat!” you click and give out a treat. Click; treat. Click; treat. It’s very simple and quite effective. Your cat will associate the correct action (the one you clicked for) with the treat. The target stick (which I will explain later) is part of the clicker tools. You use it to target the behavior, that is, teach the cat to follow or touch the stick to get the reward (a click and a treat).

Introducing the Clicker So, how do you get started? First, you must have the proper tools, namely, a clicker, a target stick, and a treat your cat really loves. This treat should be cut up in small portions so that you can give her a lot without getting her fat, ruining her appetite, or upsetting her digestive system. Another possibility is using canned food—giving your kitty a taste off a spoon. One nifty thing I saw someone do was tape a clicker to a pen (with blunt end facing outward) and to a plastic spoon (with the spoon end facing the other direction). The blunt end was the target stick and the spoon was to give a taste of canned food. That way, you only have one object to manipulate instead of three.

Lesson 1: Introduction to the Clicker 1. Start while your cat isn’t doing anything in particular, preferably before her feeding time when she’s a bit hungry. Show her the clicker. Now, click and give her a treat.

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Sometimes it takes a while for the cat to make the association. This is okay. If, after five minutes or so, you haven’t made any progress, put away the clicker and play with your cat. Try again tomorrow. At some point, your cat is going to make the association between the click and the treat. When she does, you’ll be ready for Lesson 2.

Lesson 2: Varying the Response Times Once your cat has figured out that treats come with clicks, the next step is to vary the time between the click and the treat and where she receives the treat. This will teach your cat that she can expect a treat even if it’s a little delayed or it may not be in your hand, but tossed on the ground. Remember that your cat must first associate the click with the treat before you proceed to this step. 1. Click the clicker and silently count to five. Your cat may look expectantly to you before you give her the treat. 2. Give her the treat. 3. Now click again and count to three silently and then treat her. 4. Now click and silently count to ten and then treat. If she gets insistent or pushy, don’t do anything. Just wait until she stops before you give her the treat. Her correct response is to wait patiently before getting the treat. 5. Once she is used to varying times, click and toss the treat in front of her. Your cat should eat the treat, but if she has problems with the idea of picking it up, show her the treat and praise her when she picks it up. 6. Click the clicker and toss the treat somewhere else once she has figured out that the treat doesn’t have to come from your hand.

Is the Clicker Too Scary? Some sensitive pets may find the noise the clicker makes a bit daunting. If your cat finds the clicker too scary, try covering it with your hand before clicking or using something like your tongue to make a soft click.

Having Fun with Your Cat

If your cat is startled by the loud noise, try muffling it a bit in your hand when you click it. You can also click using your tongue. 2. Click and give her a treat. Click; treat. Click; treat. You may have to do this for a bit, but at some point, your cat will start picking up that when she hears a click, she’s going to get a treat. You should click and she should look expectantly at you for the treat.

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My Cat Isn’t Interested You may find that if you free feed your cat (that is, leave her food out all day) she may not care about the clicker or her reward. First, pick something that your cat loves (like canned cat food) and use that as a clicker treat. Second, stop leaving the food out all day. Instead, feed your kitty in two meals each day and pick up the food after ten minutes. Your cat will love the clicker and being fed when you do this.

Lesson 3: Training with the Target Stick Once your cat is used to hearing a click and receiving a treat, now the fun begins! You start with target stick training. Target sticks are great for teaching your cat where to go or to touch certain things with her nose or paw. 1. Get out your clicker, bags of treats, and target stick (such as a pen with a blunt end). 2. Hold the target stick out for your cat to sniff it. 3. If she touches the stick, click and treat. You may have to wiggle the stick a bit to get her interested in it. Even if she accidentally touches it, you must click and treat. Suppose your cat doesn’t touch the stick? Then start shaping the behavior. Shaping is a fancy term for teaching the behavior you want in small increments. For example, you will click and treat when your cat looks at the stick. Every time your cat looks at the stick, you should click and treat. Then, after she looks at the stick and waits for you to click, wait and see what she does next. Your cat may stare at it longer or perhaps nudge or paw the stick. If she needs encouragement, wave the stick close to her, but don’t touch the stick to her—instead, let your cat touch the stick. Click and treat. 4. Once your cat touches the stick and subsequently hears a click and gets a treat, she may be puzzled. After all, she’s been doing nothing to get a click and treat, but now she has to work for it. Offer the stick again and see if your cat will touch the stick (accidentally or on purpose). Click and treat when she does. Some cats quickly learn to touch the target stick. Others may need several sessions before they start touching the target stick.

Lesson 4: Adding Commands or Cue Words Once your cat responds to the target stick, it’s time to add words. Although we tend to call them commands, these words are actually cues for the behavior you want your cat to do. 1. Once your cat touches the target stick consistently, start using a cue word, such as “touch” before your cat touches the target stick. 2. Start to differentiate between touching the target stick with the nose (“nose it”) and touching it with the paw (“paw it”). Make it easy for your cat by putting the target stick close to either her nose or her paw.

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Tricks You Can Teach Your Cat Now that you’ve taught your cat the basics of the clicker, it’s time to teach some tricks. When you start training your cat to do tricks, remember that sometimes it’s very difficult for a cat to understand what you’re trying to teach her and be patient. If at any time the training is going badly, stop and have your cat do something she knows how to do. Praise her and then end your training with a play session.

Come “Come” is a vital command for your cat to learn. I discovered this once when Hailey got into a place where she wasn’t supposed to be—and where I couldn’t get her. I called her and she came as though it was not only natural but expected. Start by teaching your cat that good things happen when you call her. Give her a treat every time she comes to you. Always praise your cat for coming, and never call your cat to you when you’re mad at her. Naturally, you should train your cat in a room where she doesn’t have a lot of distractions and can’t leave. 1. Enter the room with your cat, holding your clicker and treats. Most cats will come right to you when they know you have the clicker. Click and treat. 2. If your cat doesn’t come to you, try showing her the treat, then click and treat when she comes. 3. Once she comes to you, start using the cue word “come.” You can pair it with your cat’s name, such as “Kitty, come!” and click and treat when she does. 4. Practice “come” at short distances. 5. Then, gradually lengthen the distance. If, at any time, your cat fails to come directly to you, return to shorter distances.

Having Fun with Your Cat

3. Wait for her to touch it appropriately (let’s say, we’re working on “paw it”; she should start to touch the target stick with her paw). Click and treat. 4. Click and treat each time she does the right thing. 5. Now that she’s primed for pawing the target stick, say “paw it” before she paws it and click and treat. 6. Add this cue word and move the stick around so she has to work a bit to touch it with her paw. Give her the command “paw it” each time and click and treat. 7. You need to teach her “nose it” as well. Teach your cat the same way you taught “paw it,” only click and treat when she touches the stick with her nose.

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Sit 1. Hold a treat or target stick over your cat’s nose. 2. Tell your cat to “nose it” and bring the treat or target stick backward. As she follows the treat or the target stick, her rear will start to drop. 3. When her rear touches the floor, click and treat. 4. Repeat several times. Some cats may not naturally sit. If she won’t sit or if she backs up instead of sitting, try teaching her to sit with her back to the wall so that she must sit because she doesn’t have anywhere to go. 5. Once you have your cat sitting with the clicker, add the command. Tell her, “Kitty, sit!” before she sits, then click and treat. 6. Once your cat is familiar with the command, you’ll need to “fade” the lure or target stick and stop telling her to “nose it.” Instead, substitute the command to sit.

Wave This silly trick is a remarkably easy command. 1. Hold the target stick a bit higher than you might to get your cat to paw something and tell your cat to “paw it.” 2. When she paws it, click and treat. 3. Do this a few times and raise the target stick to a point where your cat has to raise her paw. Click and treat each time. 4. Once you have the wave at a high enough level, substitute the cue word “wave.” Click and treat each time. 5. Practice several times so your cat knows what “wave” means. Then start fading the target stick.

Setting Up a Kitty Obstacle Course One fun thing you can do with your cat is set up your own indoor agility course. You’ll need to have your kitty clicker trained and also trained to follow a target stick or a lure. Start with a single object and train kitty to go over or through the obstacle by leading her with the target stick. If it is scary at first, try clicking and treating at appropriate intervals. Try making the following agility equipment for your cat:

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Hurdle— put a stick between two chair leg supports. Cat walk—place a 2×4 across two cinder blocks. Table—use a coffee table without anything on it or something sturdy and flat. Tunnel—remove the top and bottom of a box or buy a kid’s tunnel at a toy store. There are also kitty tunnels you can try.

Setting up an agility course can be very fun and rewarding. Put several obstacles together such as a hurdle, table, and tunnel. Now get your cat ready for fun. Lead her over a hurdle,

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What kind of tricks do you want to teach your cat? You’re limited only by your imagination and what you can teach her. Before trying to teach your cat a trick, first decide if it’s something she can accomplish. Make sure you are not trying to teach your cat something she can’t do because of her health (arthritis and joint problems might be an issue for example). The second thing to consider is whether or not it’s a good idea to teach your cat this trick. Teaching your cat to smack someone may not be a good idea! Think the trick through—will your cat take it to the next level? Bad tricks are really hard to unlearn. If you teach a bad trick to your cat you’ll be very sorry! Some tricks will be easy. The best way to teach an easy trick is to click and treat when you see your cat do the behavior. But if it’s not a normal behavior, you may have to “lure” your cat into it. For example, to teach “beg,” you will have to use a treat to get the behavior. When creating a more complex trick, consider what you want your cat to do and break it up into smaller tasks. For example, teaching your cat to drop to the ground and roll over “dead” when you say “Bang!” requires your cat to do three things: lie down, roll over on her back, and stay. You must first teach your cat how to do each of these things and then put them together to make them into the full trick. This is where the clicker comes in handy. Start first with the easiest trick, maybe “down.” Click and treat for a quick “down.” Then, as your cat drops down, add “roll over.” In this way, you’re chaining two behaviors together. Lastly, train your cat to stay belly up until you release her. Put the cue word, “bang,” with the chain of behaviors and you’ve now got a theatrical performance.

followed by hopping on the table (have her perform a sit), and then lead her through the tunnel. At the very end, give her treats and praise.

Fun Games to Play with Your Cat There are many ways to have fun with your kitty. Your kitty will enjoy playing with you and your kids even more so when she learns a new game.

Marco Polo Do you remember the old swimming pool game Marco Polo, when you closed your eyes and tried to locate teammates by sound? This is similar only you don’t have to shut your eyes. It’s a remarkably silly game, but it is one that your cat will pick up on and love to play. Hailey and I play it constantly, and it’s good training to find out where your kitty is. It helps to have a talkative kitty for this game. If you don’t, you need to teach her to meow on command. Start with the clicker and click and treat whenever your cat meows. She may

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132 be surprised and try to meow again. Click and treat. As your cat continues to meow for a treat, add a cue word such as “meow.” When you feel in the mood to play, look at your kitty and say “meow!” If she knows the command, she’ll meow back. If she’s in a social mood, she may approach you. That’s okay. Move backward and say “meow!” She’ll need to meow again and move toward you. When she touches you, give her a treat. Now, you’re it and you have to move to another part of the room and start again. If your kitty isn’t being social, meow once yourself and wait for her meow. Then, move forward a few steps and meow again. Wait for her to meow. Continue as long as you desire. When you finally reach her, give her a treat for being so patient with you!

Fishing for Kitty If you have a fishing pole toy, you know how your kitty loves to play with it. Make it more interesting for her by flopping the feather or toy on the fishing pole on the couch like a live trout. Then, just as your kitty tries to catch it, have it scurry behind the couch, then over in the corner, and back on the couch again. Your kitty will think this is a great game. Let her catch it occasionally—it’s no fun if you can’t win some of the time.

Where’s the Treat? Can your kitty be the next Sherlock Cat? Why not? Put her sleuthing ability to the test! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

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Have a treat in the open in a place you’ve chosen and lead your kitty to it. Tell her “find it.” Click and let her have the treat. Do it again in the same spot. Click and treat. Practice this until your kitty runs to get the treat. Now, try putting the treat in a different location. She might go back where you hid the first treat. Lead her to the second treat. Click and treat when she finds it. Do this again once she finds the treat in a different spot. Eventually, your kitty will learn that you have a treat for her and she needs to look for it when you say “find it.” Now, hide the treat in a location where your kitty has found treats in the past. Tell her to “find it.” If she’s confused, lead her to the treat, reveal it, and click and treat. Do this again a few times until your kitty gets the idea that she’s to look for the treat and use her nose. Now, do this in another place. If she goes to the old place and looks, wait to see if she’ll look in the new place. (If she doesn’t, lead her to the treat and click and treat.) Eventually, you can have a kitty scavenger hunt, having your kitty find the treat.

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This is another fun game and one that you can play with your kids. Start by saying “Simon says” and a command that your cat knows. Your children must perform the command faster than your kitty or they’re out of the game. If you give a command without “Simon says” and your kids follow it, they’re out. (The kitty is never out.)

What You Now Know . . . Using the clicker will help your cat learn what you want from her. You can impress your friends and delight your family by teaching your cat a few simple tricks. Most cats love learning things. It helps create a bond between you and your cat.

Having Fun with Your Cat

Simon Says

Chapter 11 What’s Inside . . . Learn what causes problem feline behaviors. Learn how to stop problem behaviors before they start. Learn to recognize a problem behavior in its early stages and correct it. Learn typical problems with cats and how to correct them.

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ats are great pets, there’s no doubt about it. Unlike dogs (arguably domesticated around twenty thousand years ago), cats are a fairly recent phenomenon (merely seven thousand years ago). The cat has pretty much the same instincts his ancestors had but with the need to bond to people. In other words, we’ve invited the tiger to stay. Somehow, in our zeal to domesticate animals, we forget that the cat’s ancestors go back to the wild cats of Africa. Cats were most likely self-domesticating, meaning that when people started living in villages, the cats knew a good thing when they saw it—a steady food source of mice and other rodents in the grain stores. Those cats who tolerated humans hung around; those cats who didn’t went elsewhere. As cats began to get along with people, it became more important to have cats who liked to hang around people. These cats tended to look on humans not as scary, but as a part of their social structure. But cats are still cats, and they behave in feline ways. That means that while we can train a cat to do things and be a very civilized animal, he has underlying traits that will appear if they are not managed appropriately. Many of these traits, such as aggression, clawing, and spraying, are intrinsic to cats. Through training, the cat learns to curb these instinctive behaviors and substitute acceptable actions. But it doesn’t happen overnight. This chapter gives you some great ways to not only recognize but also prevent such behaviors from happening.

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Preventing Problem Behaviors A cat will naturally exhibit behaviors we don’t want. If we’re not willing to correct them or provide alternatives, the cat will repeat them, especially if showing such behavior gets him the kind of response he seeks. Your job as owner is to prevent those behaviors from occurring or recognize when they’re starting and halt them in their tracks.

How to Recognize a Problem Behavior Problems start innocently enough, and most owners are unaware that certain actions can lead to problem behavior. For instance, your kitten grasps your hand and starts biting. Or maybe he claws the old ratty sofa you don’t care much about. You might explain the behavior away by saying, “She was playing,” or “He hates Cousin Fred,” or you might ignore it and hope it was a one-time deal. Maybe it wasn’t that big of a problem—you figure you can clean it up or you don’t care if he claws that old couch—but it is something that can quickly get out of hand. Soon, the behavior escalates, for example he’s always biting or clawing something. Before you know it, you have a problem kitty. The easiest way to correct a bad behavior is to prevent it entirely. That means stopping a bad behavior before it starts. Look at your cat’s current behaviors: do you have scratching posts he likes? Do you keep a clean litter box? Are there other cats who are making your cat anxious? If you can figure out what can cause bad behavior, maybe you can stop it before it starts. What you must keep in mind is what people think is “bad” behavior is often simply feline behavior that doesn’t translate well to a human environment.

Is It Biological? Before you enroll your cat in a remedial class for kitty juvenile delinquents, make sure that the behavior isn’t biological. Pain can make anyone crabby; urinary tract infections can cause your cat to not use the litter box. Dental pain or an assortment of other ailments and injuries can cause a gentle cat to bite or scratch in order to avoid being touched in a sensitive place. Whenever a behavior changes, bring your cat to the vet. If the problem appears out of nowhere—or even if it doesn’t—take your cat for a thorough health check. Talk with your veterinarian about the problem and see if he or she may be able to find a root cause for the bad behavior. Sometimes your veterinarian may be able to find a cause; other times, the vet may not. Even if your vet rules out a biological component, keep it in mind in case the condition is subtle and your vet may have missed it. Over the years, I’ve known many problem animals who simply had medical conditions. In fact, I would go so far as to recommend that if you see a potential problem, look for an underlying condition. Although the problem may be behavioral, look first to your kitty’s health.

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If you own a cat who has a problem, you may be tempted to take your cat’s actions personally. “Look what he’s done!” you might say. “He knows not to do that!” Or, you might say “He’s being spiteful.” As pet owners, we’re tempted to anthropomorphize our pets. But cats aren’t little people in fur suits. You may be surprised to learn cats don’t feel guilt and (contrary to what you may think after he’s peed in your shoes) they don’t feel spite. Cats who do the wrong things may know you are displeased with them when they do certain things, but something is rewarding them for doing it. They don’t feel guilt in the way you or I do. When you yell at your cat, he may slink away, but that’s not guilt—he just doesn’t like being around you when you’re angry. Your cat will still pee in your shoes. So, the first thing to do is to realize that you’re not dealing with a human here. Your cat is peeing in your shoes not because you haven’t fed him tuna and he’s mad at you but because the shoes smell of his urine and he is returning to those shoes because he’s attracted to them. It’s your job to put those shoes out of reach and start figuring out why he’s peeing outside the litter box.

No Quick Fixes When people have a problem cat, they try to prevent behavior problems with quick fixes— something that will magically cause the cat to reform. If you’re one of those people who are looking for a quick fix, I have bad news for you. There are no quick fixes to bad behavior. Yes, you can do something that will stop the behavior while you retrain your cat, but in reality, your cat has probably had a long time to develop this bad habit—it isn’t going to go away overnight. If the behavior is truly dangerous or obnoxious, you should consult a cat behaviorist as soon as possible to get recommendations for what you need to do to correct it. Chapter 6 outlines rules for you and your family for interacting with your cat. If you are not following them, do so now! It will help with problems such as aggression and other issues you may be accidentally causing without knowing it.

Aggression Cats can become aggressive for various reasons. There are several types of aggression that are common in cats. They include:

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Pain aggression: The cat is in pain. Fear aggression: The cat is terrified of something and wants to get away. Overstimulation: The cat suddenly bites or scratches you during a petting session.

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Play/prey aggression: Your cat decides your hand or foot is a mouse. Redirected aggression: Your cat pounces on you instead of something he wants.

Let’s look at each of them.

Pain Aggression Pain aggression is instinctual for the cat. Pain puts your cat into self-preservation mode, and your cat is going to do whatever it takes to save himself. That may mean lashing out at you. Even gentle cats can become ferocious tigers when dealing with pain. If your cat is in pain, you’re not going to win this one easily. The safest thing to do is to get him to a veterinarian. You may have to cover him with a towel and then slip him into a carrier to get him to the vet.

Fear Aggression Fear aggression is very similar to pain aggression in that you are fighting against his selfpreservation instinct. What is making your cat fearful can be something as scary as an aggressive dog or something as benign as Uncle Bob who loves cats (maybe he knows something about Uncle that you don’t know yet). Socialization is a key to preventing most fear aggression but quite honestly, once it occurs, it’s tough to deal with it. Even so, there is no single way to prevent fear aggression except to avoid the terrifying situation. If your cat is afraid, the worst thing in the world you can do is make him face his fear. It doesn’t work; don’t try it. Don’t shove your kitty in Uncle Bob’s face. Doing so convinces your sweet cat that Uncle Bob is the most evil monster imaginable. Talk with a cat behaviorist on this one. He or she can help you get your kitty over his fright. Sometimes you can help him overcome his fear of Uncle Bob by having him offer the kitty his favorite treat.

Overstimulation Overstimulation can be puzzling to many cat owners. You’re petting your kitty and suddenly— whammo!—he bites or claws you. What gives? Well, your cat thinks he told you he didn’t want to be petted, but like a goofy human, you probably didn’t see the signs. Perhaps he whipped his tail back and forth in a very agitated way, he moved his ears to the side or flattened them back, he rippled his skin, or maybe he tried to get away. Of course, the ultimate sign that he didn’t want to be petted was the bite. The bite can be light or hard depending on how irritated the cat is. Furthermore, most cats don’t like it when you pet their tummies because it is their most vulnerable area. When your cat flips over, it’s an expression of trust. It doesn’t mean that he wants his tummy rubbed. When you pet your kitty, look for signs of his becoming agitated (mentioned above). Stop petting and leave him alone. If he’s in your lap, put him down. Sometimes this is a sign of a condition called hyperesthesia—a condition that causes hypersensitivity to touch.

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Getting pounced on by a little kitten can be cute. Getting clawed by a ten-pound cat isn’t. Cats need to learn up front that clawing and scratching people’s feet and hands isn’t a good idea. The best way to teach your kitty proper behavior is not to use your hands or feet when you play with your cat. Instead, use a fishing toy or a teaser to play with your kitty. But what if you’ve already taught your kitty to play with your hands and feet? How do you stop that? Begin by redirecting your kitty’s aggression to the teaser or the toy on a fishing pole. If your kitty tries to lunge at your feet or bite your hands, stop playing immediately. Say, “no!” and walk away. If you’re attacked while walking down the hall, try spraying in the cat’s direction with a can of pressurized air or shake a soft drink can with pennies in it. When you see the cat prepare to attack (watch the butt wiggle or the position of the ears), spray or drop the can near the cat. Do this before, not after, the attack. A sharp word like “no!” or a severe hiss often works, especially for kittens. Otherwise be ready with a squirt bottle filled with water and give your kitty a quick squirt on the butt. He’ll get the idea pretty quickly he’s not supposed to do that.

Redirected Aggression Let’s say your kitty sees a bird or a mouse scurry by but can’t get to it. Or if you have two kitties that get mad at each other and you break up the squabble. In either case, you might get bitten. You’re likely to say “Ouch! What did I do?” Redirected aggression or frustration biting occurs when the animal is so keyed up to attack that when you step in (accidentally or on purpose) your cat bites or scratches you. Don’t take it personally, it isn’t you. But it sure can hurt! So, how do you stop it? First, be aware of things that may annoy your cat. The hard part is finding out that it is redirected aggression and determining what is upsetting him. It could be the cat outside, the vacuum cleaner, the smell of the neighbor’s dog on your hands or shoes. If the neighbor lets his cat out at night, then restrict your cat’s viewing access at that time. Wash your hands after handling other animals, and put the cat in another room when vacuuming. It may take some detective work and effort to figure this out. If you have two or more cats, you’re likely to see this behavior if you break up catfights. The main thing is to not come between your kitty and the thing he’s looking to get (or if you do, be prepared to avoid teeth and claws). This aggression is tough to break and you’re unlikely to do it. If your kitty continues this aggressive behavior, consult a behaviorist.

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Counter Creeping Your kitty has decided to cruise the counters. And little wonder! There’s a lot of interesting things up there—including food. If you haven’t boundary trained your kitty, start doing it now (see chapter 6). Most cats wise up after touching a static mat or getting squirted with Ssscat! In the meantime, live by the adage out of sight, out of mind. Start by assessing what you keep on your counters and where you keep your trash. Locate the trash behind closed doors where your cat can’t get to it, and keep food in cabinets with childproof latches (available at any hardware store). Keep your food out of reach when unattended. Many people find their conventional and microwave ovens a safe haven for dinner plates. If you have a confirmed counter raider and need to have a lot of food out (a party, for example), perhaps putting your kitty in another room where he can’t get into trouble might keep the peace.

Vocalizations Some kitties are naturally talkative (like the Oriental breeds). Others are quiet. If you have a chatty cat, you may be wondering how to silence him. Well, I have bad news. You can’t necessarily do it. However, cats can and do respond to people through meowing. So, if you react to his meowing (intentionally or unintentionally), you’re encouraging him to continue. If you ignore his vocalizations, he’ll get the idea that maybe you’re not interested in chatting. Give him affection when he’s quiet to reinforce good behavior. When your cat is carrying on, drop a penny-filled can to discourage it. Unneutered cats, or those with hyperesthesia, hyperthyroid, or even kitty Alzheimer’s may be more vocal. If he suddenly starts vocalizing, take him to the vet.

Fear of Thunder and Loud Noises Cats who are afraid of thunder may have been encouraged through coddling (“oh poor thing!”) or may simply be afraid. Although not a scientific observation, I’ve noticed that most animals afraid of thunder or loud noises are born this way and the problem actually becomes worse with age. You won’t be able to easily correct this problem through training or desensitization. The best thing is to provide a safe room for your kitty to hide in during thunderstorms or around times when there are fireworks such as Fourth of July and New Year’s Eve. Having a safe environment will help so that he doesn’t accidentally hurt himself or escape. Some medications are available through your veterinarian that might help lessen his panic. You can also consult a feline behaviorist who can try to help your kitty with his panic.

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Litter box issues are the number one problem with cats. But before you look to correct your kitty’s problems, be sure that he doesn’t have a urinary tract infection or something wrong with him that makes him avoid the litter box. Take him to the vet first to ascertain if there’s a condition causing this behavior. Poor-quality diet can cause urinary tract infections which may be another problem. Spraying is a form of territorial marking. If you have a cat who is spraying (marking vertical surfaces with urine), you need to know the cause of it. Sometimes pooping outside the box is also a form of dominant marking. Spaying or neutering intact cats will greatly reduce or even eliminate spraying. Cats can spray for a variety of reasons such as a new dog, a new human, or even a new baby in your life. If your kitty is spraying because there are cats outside, consider using some type of cat repellant made for outdoors to keep unwanted kitties away. Indoors, you can use Feliway pheromone sprays and even ComfortZone which gives an added calming scent (detectable only to cats). Feliway comes in a pump spray; ComfortZone is a plug-in form of Feliway. But what if your kitty is urinating and defecating in an inappropriate place? First, clean the area with a good enzymatic cleaner and then put some sort of boundary trainer there such as a Ssscat!, Sticky Paws, or even a Scat Mat to keep your kitty away. See chapter 6 on boundary training and chapter 9 on litter box training. In many cases the problem is biological and not behavioral, but you’ll have to treat for both to be sure. Lastly, if you are unable to solve the problem with techniques in this book, consider consulting an animal behaviorist. To find one, contact a veterinary college nearby and ask for recommendations in your area for helping with cat behavior problems. You can also contact the Tufts Behavior Clinic remote counseling service PETFAX (www.tufts.edu/vet/petfax/about.html).

Scratching Scratching is natural to a cat. It’s both a way for your cat to leave his mark and to get some exercise. You can’t stop a cat from scratching—even cats who are declawed still try to scratch—but you can redirect him to appropriate objects to scratch. If your cat is scratching inappropriate items, try putting Sticky Paws or double-sided tape on the area he’s scratching and putting a scratching post of an appropriate height and material nearby. Put catnip on the scratching post so that it is more interesting. Be sure you have a good stable scratcher and enough scratching posts in areas where your cat loves to scratch. Clipping your kitty’s claws and using Soft Paws (see your vet) will help minimize the damage while you’re retraining him. See chapter 6 on scratching training.

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Spraying and Inappropriate Defecation

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Should I Declaw My Cat? In almost every circumstance, the answer is no. Declawing is very painful for a cat because you’re amputating part of the cat’s toe to what is akin to your first knuckle. It’s not just a single painful amputation—it’s ten painful amputations. Complications can arise with declawing including lifelong residual pain and behavior problems like litter box avoidance and aggression. While there have been no conclusive studies done on the correlation between behavior problems and declawing, most behaviorists think declawing is a bad idea. Many behaviorists and people involved in rescue believe that declawing leads to aggressive behavior and inappropriate elimination. So do I, for that matter. Unless you have someone in your household who has an immunity problem, declawing should never be considered. Sticky Paws, Soft Paws, and clipping your kitty’s claws will help curb the damage while you retrain your cat to scratch appropriate items.

Leaving behind Killed Animals You’ve come home and, much to your shock, you find kitty has left a dead mouse in your shoe. Or maybe not the whole mouse, but a piece of the mouse. Ugh! Let’s look at why your kitty does this. It’s actually quite a compliment to have your kitty leave you something. He’s sharing his kill with you, and if he thinks you’re really special, he might bring a half-dead rodent so that you can do the coup de grace. Hailey, my cat, brought me dead mice. Later, she started bringing me stunned mice and was trying desperately to teach me how to kill a mouse. The truth is that I made a lousy cat and had no desire to snap the mouse’s spine in my teeth. If you’re like me, you don’t necessarily want these presents. If your cat is bringing the mice from outside, keep your cat indoors. If you have mice in your house, well, then you’re out of luck. This is what cats do. You can’t change the very nature of a cat. This is a compliment. Cats only do this for cats in their own family. Also don’t let the cat see you throw it away. It’s a gift. You’d be crushed if you gave someone a gift that they threw away in front of you.

What If It Doesn’t Work Out? Options for the Cat Owner Perhaps you and your cat aren’t working out: you’re not seeing eye-to-eye on anything. You’re at wit’s end and about ready to get rid of the cat. First, stop and take a deep breath. Figure out what the cat is doing that has brought you to these desperate measures. Now consider the following items:

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The truth is, there aren’t too many options when it comes to re-homing your pet. If he’s badly behaved with you, he is most likely to be badly behaved with other people. He may end up being handed off from home to home until someone dumps him in a shelter. Unless the problem is biological, chances are the problem was caused by lack of training. If you can’t figure out what you did wrong, you may very well have the same problem with the next cat. If, for any reason, you need to place the cat, and he is pedigreed, contact his breeder first. If this was a reputable breeder, she should take the cat back under any circumstances. If the breeder doesn’t take back the cat or if you’ve lost contact with the breeder, the next step is to contact a rescue. Be aware that rescues are often run by volunteers and may not have enough foster homes for pets, so you may have to keep your cat while they find a suitable place. Talk to your vet to see if he might be able to help you find a home for your cat. Some vets can place cats. Be cautious about placing your cat with someone you don’t know. Some unscrupulous people look for free pets to sell to research or for more nefarious purposes like cult sacrifices or baiting dogs for fighting. Put a price tag on your cat to deter those who would be looking for free pets for corrupt purposes. The last place to take a cat might be a shelter, but be aware that once you bring a cat to the shelter, he will probably be put down right away. Don’t kid yourself and think that your cat will find the perfect home. Cats, especially adults, have grim prospects. Most people want kittens. More likely in an overcrowded shelter, he will die alone and frightened in a strange place. If at all possible, try to work out the problems you have before resorting to a shelter. Shelters are not necessarily bad places, but they should be the last option for your cat when you have no other choices. Lastly, never dump a cat. That includes “in the country” because your cat is likely to die of starvation, be hit by a car, or be killed by predators. In the city, cats who are dumped end

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1. If the cat is aggressive toward people, have a veterinarian evaluate him. After that, have a behaviorist evaluate him to see if he can be retrained. You may be able to make changes that will stop your cat from being antisocial. 2. If the cat is doing something intolerable, such as scratching or house-soiling (and it is not biological), try the methods in this book for changing the behavior and seek a cat behaviorist who can help you retrain your cat. 3. If your cat can’t be retrained from whatever obnoxious habit he’s picked up (few can’t be retrained), keep a level of control over the cat so that he can’t exhibit the behavior. Keep him in a safe room (like the one you had him in when he first came home—see chapter 5) and start retraining him there. 4. Play with your cat! Many cats are badly behaved out of boredom. 5. You are your cat’s last hope. Train him and give him every chance to be the cat you want him to be.

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144 up being run over or living a terrible existence eating out of trash cans. In many cities this isn’t even possible with the new generation of sixty- or ninety-five-gallon trash containers supplied by the trash service companies. The lids are designed to prevent animals from getting into them, so this isn’t even a food option for many abandoned cats. Bring your cat to a shelter before you do that!

What You Now Know . . . Bad behavior doesn’t happen overnight. It usually occurs through lack of training, allowing the behavior to worsen until it becomes intolerable. Always have your cat’s health checked by a vet when something is going wrong. Many medical conditions can cause bad behavior. There are no quick fixes to bad behavior. If you’re committed to your cat, you’re going to have to work on a solution. You are your cat’s best hope. Train your cat and make him into the cat you want him to be—don’t hand him off for someone else to retrain. Your cat will likely go from owner to owner until he dies in a shelter.

Chapter 12 What’s Inside . . . Learn how you can include your cat in your daily life. Learn what to do when you go on vacation. Learn what kinds of identification are available for your cat to keep him safe. Learn how to choose a pet sitter or a boarding facility.

Your Cat As Part of the Family

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o you consider your cat part of the family? If so, you’re in good company! According to the American Pet Association’s statistics, over thirty-three million households have cats and there are over seventy-eight million pet cats in the United States. That means most people enjoy cats enough to have more than one in their house. But it doesn’t stop there. Did you know that over thirteen million people celebrate their kitty’s birthday? Or that nearly forty million cats receive a Christmas present each year? There’s no doubt that cats are here to stay as companion animals, and you’re not strange or odd if you feel that your kitty is an important family member. Let’s look at some of the ways you can include your cat in your life.

Identification Before you start having fun with your cat, you need to take the time to have identification on her. Your cat should have two forms of ID—tags and a permanent form, either microchip or tattoos. You should have tags because not everyone knows to look for permanent ID; you should have permanent ID because your cat may lose her collar and tags.

Tags Tags are a cheap form of identification. Most tags cost between $4 and $8, although expensive tags from $10 to $20 are usually gold plated or have a blessing from Saint Francis on them. Tags are easy to get. Many pet supply stores have tag-engraving machines that will 145

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146 make the tags right there as you watch for under $10. Your vet probably has mail-in forms at his office, and you can purchase tags through pet supply mail-order catalogues and online. Some tags are free with the purchase of pet supplies. Malls may even have tag-engraving machines for pet tags or luggage. There’s no reason your cat should be without tags. Make two tags: one for her to wear and one as a spare. In addition, when you travel or go on vacation, have a separate tag made with your cell phone number and the place where you will be plus dates. Every day, lost cats turn up at shelters with collars, but without tags. Tags, which are the cheapest and easiest form of identification, can be removed from the cat or lost; so you definitely should also invest in a permanent form of identification such as tattoos or microchips.

Tattoos Tattoos are a visible form of identification permanently marked into the skin. Unlike human tattoos, cat tattoos are generally painless, but they can be distressing because the markers buzz loudly. Most cats need some sort of sedation before the procedure. There are two locations on a cat’s body where tattoos are put: inside the ear or on the inside thigh. Inside the ear is a poor choice—cat thieves will often lop off an ear to remove the identification. Tattoos are less expensive than microchips, costing anywhere from $5 to $25 plus registration fee, and you can have them done at a vet clinic, through a breed club, or groomer. National Dog Registry (NDR; which takes cats’ registrations, too) and Tattoo-A-Pet can refer you to tattooists in your area. You must choose a unique number for your cat—most people choose their social security number. However, that number must be registered with an ID registry for it to work. Unfortunately, many people don’t know to check for tattoos, and if people do find a tattoo, many people don’t know the registries out there. See the sidebar on page 147 for registries.

Microchips Microchips are about the size of a grain of rice and inserted under the skin, usually between the cat’s shoulder blades. Microchips are encased in plastic and are only activated when a scanner is passed over them. You must have a vet or humane group perform the insertion procedure, which takes only a few seconds and causes very little discomfort. A scanner passed over it reads the microchip like a bar code. Then, whoever scans the number must contact the registry to look up the cat in the database. The person or the veterinarian can then contact the owner directly. Vets and some animal shelters provide microchips that cost anywhere from $25 to $50 plus registration fee. Even if someone who finds your cat does know to check for microchips, scanners aren’t cheap and many scanners don’t work with all possible microchips. There is no standard for

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1-800-HELP-4-PETS 8721 Santa Monica Blvd., # 710 Los Angeles, CA 90069 1-800-HELP4PETS E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.help4pets.com

AVID (Microchip) 3185 Hamner Ave. Norco, CA 92860 1-800-336-AVID (2843) 1-909-371-7505 (International) E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.avidid.com

AKC Companion Animal Recovery 5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 250 Raleigh, NC 27606-3389 1-800-252-7894 Website: www.akccar.org

National Dog Registry (also accepts cats) P.O. Box 116 Woodstock, NY 12498 1-800-637-3647 Website: www.natldogregistry.com

The American Pet Association Guardian Program P.O. Box 7172 Boulder, CO 80306-7172 1-800-APA-PETS (272-7387) E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.apapets.org

Tattoo-A-Pet 6571 S.W. 20th Court Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33317 1-800-828-8667 Website: www.tattoo-a-pet.com

microchips at this time, although the American Kennel Club (AKC) has introduced the Home Again chip and registration, “Companion Animal Recovery” (which is available to cats as well). In addition, not all shelters have scanners for microchips, although Home Again and other microchip manufacturers offer microchip scanners free or at low cost to shelters. Are permanent IDs foolproof? Of course not. However, cats often lose their collars and without some permanent form of ID, you may never get your cat back.

Vacations Most cats shouldn’t travel unless you have no other choice. You might be thinking that if your cat is a member of the family, why shouldn’t you bring your cat on vacation? Cats are homebodies and most would rather you stay home with them. But a few rare kitties like to see the sights, and traveling may be a fact of life. Traveling with your pet can be a pleasure or a nightmare depending on your planning and your pet.

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Animal Registry and Recovery Services

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Will My Cat Travel Well? Some cats travel well; most don’t. Take this quiz to see if your cat is one of the few outgoing kitties. If most answers are yes, you may have a travel companion.

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Does my cat enjoy riding in the car? Does my cat like to meet other people? Does my cat like trips to the vet and the pet supply store? Is my cat cool and collected when other people and animals are around? Has my cat visited other people’s homes without an issue? Does my cat like other animals? Does my cat look forward to outdoor trips?

Before you start packing, start thinking. Taking a vacation with a cat requires a lot more time and preparation than just jumping in the car and going somewhere. Most cats do not enjoy traveling and some pets get carsick or behave inappropriately in new surroundings. Especially cats who have clawing and spraying problems or ones who are severely stressed should not join you on your vacation. Hire a pet sitter or use a boarding facility. You certainly don’t want your kitty slipping out when the maid service comes around. Likewise, some places are poor choices to bring your cat. Before you decide to bring your cat with you, find out if there are places where you can take your cat and emergency veterinarians in the area you’re traveling. What are you going to do while you’re visiting? Is your cat going to be cooped up in his carrier all day in the hotel room? If you do take your cat on vacation, make sure she is up-to-date on all her vaccinations, including rabies. Your vet can also advise you on what other vaccinations might be appropriate.

Travel Preparations Before you head out on a grand adventure, consider your cat. You will have to make reservations in hotels that allow pets. Even if the hotel allows pets, it doesn’t necessarily mean they’ll allow your cat. Sad but true, many hotels and motels won’t allow cats. Some will charge an extra fee to have the cat in the room. Some want a refundable safety deposit. Whatever you do, don’t think you can just sneak in your cat. Most motel owners are pretty savvy about what goes on. If you try to sneak in your cat, you might find an extra bill tagged to your room charge—or worse, face eviction. That’s not the kind of vacation you have in mind, is it? You’ll naturally be bringing food along, but you may want to also bring bottled water. Some cats’ stomachs and intestines are sensitive to water in other areas and may have digestive

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You might want to discuss tranquilizers and natural remedies to help keep the cat calm. Some cats become distressed; many just sit quietly in their carriers. Try some trial trips around town to see how your cat reacts before you decide to give drugs. You may not need them.

Health Certificates When you travel across state lines (on an airline) or into another country, you’ll need your pet’s health certificate. You must obtain a health certificate from your veterinarian before you leave. These usually cost no more than $25 (some vets charge for both an office call and the certificate), and must be dated no longer than ten days from the time you travel. If you travel by plane, you must have a certificate to transport your cat. Have copies of your cat’s health certificate and vaccinations with you at all times.

Airline Travel Airline travel presents new obstacles. When flying to a destination with a cat, be certain to contact the airline well ahead of purchasing your tickets to find out the airline’s (and the FAA’s) latest rules and regulations regarding transporting cats. Some airlines will not transport pets at all, while others may have restrictions. Make pet reservations early because the airlines limit the number of pets that can be taken in the cabin. Your cat must be kept in the carrier at all times aboard the plane. Assuming you can fly with your cat, be certain that you arrive several hours ahead of your flight to get through security. In order to fly, the airline requires a health certificate within ten days of travel. FAA regulations require that the carrier fit under the seat in front of you. Take this into account when choosing a carrier. Nonrigid carriers are the best choice. If you’re bringing a cat as a carry-on, you may have to send the carrier through the X-ray machine without the cat (you’ll need to carry the cat through the metal detector). Keep a harness and leash on your cat in case she gets frightened.

Car Travel Most cats would rather have their toenails pulled out with a pair of pliers than ride in a car. Really? If your cat is used to traveling to fun places in the car, you’ll have little problems with getting your cat ready for a big trip. If your cat hates riding in the car, perhaps you should rethink bringing him along unless you’re moving. In this case, keep your cat in her carrier.

Your Cat As Part of the Family

upsets. In rural areas, it’s a good idea to bring your own water anyway. Some places are on well water or their treatment facilities can’t screen out microorganisms such as giardia (which causes severe diarrhea and dehydration). Bring enough food and water for a day or two longer than your vacation in case of unforeseen delays.

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150

Traveling Checklist □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □

Health and vaccination certificates for airline travel Phone numbers for emergency veterinarians in the destination area Cat first-aid kit Enough food and water for your trip plus two days Travel carrier Extra leash Paper towels, newspapers, and plastic bags Spot cleaner (enzymatic cleaner) Litter and travel litter pan Scoop Treats Toys Cat’s medication Collar with ID tags for both your destination and your home

When you plan on traveling by car, you should always have your kitty inside the car in a carrier. It’s useful for keeping her out from underfoot while you’re driving. Do not put her in the back of a pickup truck, even when in a carrier. It’ll expose your cat to the elements and she could get tossed out if you have to suddenly stop or swerve to avoid an accident. Check on your cat frequently in her carrier, especially in the summertime. Be sure that your cat is sufficiently cool or warm (depending on the weather) and there is good airflow through the carrier to avoid the danger of overheating. This brings up the subject of temperatures on your trip. In warm weather, temperatures inside a car can soar to dangerous levels in a short time even with the windows down. Be sure that your car’s air conditioner is in good working order and make sure that the air around your cat’s carrier isn’t blocked. Likewise, be sure that the sun doesn’t hit your cat’s carrier while driving. Never leave a cat alone inside a car even with the windows cracked during summer. Even in a relatively short time, the car can heat up to fatal temperatures. One useful device is a portable fan that runs on batteries. These are great to clip onto your cat’s carrier and will help keep her cool in hot weather. While this is great while you are in the car with your cat, do not leave your kitty unattended. When you come out of the car, your cat should come, too. Cold weather can be dangerous, as well. Keeping your cat warm is important. Be sure to have a warm blanket where your kitty can snuggle and never leave her alone in a cold car. Plan for no more than four hours between litter box stops (more frequently if your cat is elderly or a kitten) if the carrier is small, or put her in a carrier big enough to hold a litter box. You can have a small pan of litter on the floor of your backseat when you need to put her

151

Hotels and Motels It seems that the travel industry has discovered pets. Most hotel and motel chains list whether they allow pets or not, and what is available for them, in booklets and brochures. AAA also lists hotels and motels and whether they allow pets. One word of caution—don’t always rely on these because the establishment’s ownership may have changed and the new owners may not allow cats or might have certain restrictions. Always call and ask. Remember to show good manners with your cat whenever you travel. Sadly, many people abuse their welcome and now hotels and motels that once accepted pets do not any longer. Always be mindful of the hotel’s hospitality. The following are good rules for traveling:

• • • • • • • • • • •

Always inform the hotel/motel that you have a cat. Never leave your cat alone in your room unless she is in her carrier. A loose cat may claw things or soil the carpet. She could slip out if the maid service comes. Bag up any scooped litter and put it in the outside trash. Don’t flush litter down the toilet (even if flushable) in case there is a clog. Never leave your cat in a car in warm weather during the daytime, even with the windows cracked. Cars heat up quickly and your cat can suffer heatstroke. Don’t bathe, brush, or groom your cat in a hotel room. Don’t let your cat sleep in the bed with you. (The next people may not like cat hair on the blankets and bedspread or they may be allergic.) If your cat can’t sleep except on a bed, bring an extra blanket or towel and lay it across the bed to keep off the fur. Put your cat’s dishes in the bathroom or anywhere there is a tiled or linoleum floor. Use newspapers to make cleanup easier. Keep your cat quiet. Use a lint brush or cat hair roller to remove any cat hair from the furniture and carpet. Leave the room in good shape. Choose a hotel that offers room service so that you don’t have to always go out to eat.

Pet Travel Resources Pets on the Go: The Definitive Pet Accommodation and Vacation Guide by Dawn Habgood, Robert Habgood. Duxbury, MA: Dawbert Press, 2002. Traveling With Your Pet: The AAA PetBook, 5th Edition. 2003. The Portable petswelcome.com: The Complete Guide to Traveling with Your Pet by Fred N. Grayson and Chris Kingsley. New York: Howell Book House, 2001. Mobil 2004 Travel Guide on the Road with Your Pet: More Than 4,400 Mobil-Rated Lodgings in North America for Travelers with Dogs, Cats, and Other Pets (Mobil Travel Guide: On the Road with Your Pet) by Beth Adelman (editor) and Fodor’s (editor). 2004.

Your Cat As Part of the Family

down to relieve herself. (Keep the windows up and the doors closed while she’s out—otherwise you may have a kitty escape.)

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152

Boarding Facilities Boarding kennel: Standard boarding kennels keep cats in cages and may or may not provide individualized attention. Pet spas: These are usually associated with dog training schools but may be anywhere. People there usually play with and give attention to cats. Depending on the size of the kennel, your cat may see the same people each day. Veterinary boarding facilities: These usually run in conjunction to the veterinary practice. The vet is on call twenty-four hours a day.

Boarding Facilities There are some times when you don’t want to bring your cat with you when you travel. Maybe you’re going someplace that won’t allow cats, going on a business trip, or (most likely) your cat doesn’t travel well. Whatever the reason, you may decide to board your cat. There are cats-only facilities. Costs for boarding facilities vary widely depending on the services offered. Some, for a fee, will perform on-site grooming or exit baths before you pick up your cat. Ask your vet, trainer, or other cat owners whom they recommend to board cats. Contact the American Boarding Kennel Association at (719) 591-1113 for kennels in your area if you have no other recommendations. Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if there are any unresolved complaints (assuming the business is a member). Call each kennel and ask the following questions to help narrow your search:

Finding a Kennel: Interview Questions What are the hours I can come by and drop off or pick up my pet?

Can I provide my own cat food?

153 Your Cat As Part of the Family

Do you provide separate rooms for the cats away from the dogs?

Do you have an on-call vet?

Do you have grooming available?

How much do you charge per cat per day? Do you offer a discount for multiple pets?

Is there someone on-site at all times?

Is there supervised exercise or playtime? Do they have a cat play room?

What disinfectants do you use and how often do you clean the cages? How often are the boxes scooped?

What services do you provide? How much are your services?

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154 What vaccinations are required and how recent do they need to be?

Who do you contact in emergencies?

Once you have found a few kennels in your area that fit your criteria, make an appointment with them for an inspection. If the staff is reluctant to allow you to tour the entire facility, you should probably consider another kennel. Contact the boarding facility well ahead of time. Most good boarding facilities fill up quickly—during peak times small facilities and even larger ones may be full weeks or months in advance. At holidays the really good ones book up a year in advance. If you own multiple pets, this may present a special challenge if the facility is small.

Pet Sitters If you have multiple pets or if your cat does not do well in a boarding facility, consider hiring a pet sitter. All pet sitters will come to your house and feed and water your cat as well as scoop the litter box. Some will bring in the mail and newspapers, water plants, feed other pets, and make the home look lived-in while you are gone. A pet sitter can be anyone from a bonded and insured service to the neighbor kid next door (although I don’t recommend using neighbors!). Whomever you choose as a pet sitter, remember that you are giving them full run of your house. Ask your vet and other pet-owning friends who does pet sitting in your area. Quite often vets know someone who is looking to add to their income through pet sitting. Some may even be vet techs! You can contact the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters at (800) 296-PETS or Pet Sitters International at (336) 983-9222 for a list of professional pet sitters. Be certain that professional pet sitters you consider are bonded, licensed, and insured, and ask for references and a copy of their contract. Once you settle on someone, have him or her come over and meet your cat. See how the pet sitter reacts to cats. The interaction is very important—you want someone who likes cats even if your cat may be a bit antisocial.

155

Regardless of whom you use as a pet sitter, always leave your vet’s phone number and emergency number handy. Post an itinerary of your trip with numbers where your pet sitter or vet can contact you, should a problem arise. Write out instructions for care clearly. If your cat requires medication, put the information on the instruction sheet. Then, take a big permanent marker and mark the precise dosage on each pill bottle. If you have multiple pets, be certain to put the correct pet’s name on the bottle as well.

The Workplace According to a survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, approximately 21percent of pet owners have taken their pets to the workplace at one time or another. Did you know that there’s a day to show off your pet to your coworkers? The last Friday of June is designated as Take Your Pet to Work Day. Is this a new concept? It’s not unusual to see pets at workplaces. I’ve seen cats in computer offices, classrooms, bookstores, libraries, pet supply stores, hotels, radio stations, and veterinary clinics. I worked for an aerospace company who had mouser cats to keep down the rodent populations. Some cats are in unlikely places as well such as aboard airplanes and ships. Cats have been mascots in times of war and peace. In the book, Bomber Command by Jeffrey L. Ethell (St. Paul, Minn.: Motorbooks International, 1994), there is an adorable photo of a cat sleeping in the cockpit of a B-25 bomber while in flight during WWII. As a writer, I’m used to having a cat around when I work. Unfortunately, the appearance of pets at work is more of an exception rather than the rule. There are reasons for not having cats at work: they can be a distraction, the clientele may not like cats, the health department may exclude cats from a business because it carries food or is a restaurant, or someone is allergic to cats. Whatever the reason, it’s a tough sale to bring a cat into the work environment, especially if you work in corporate America.

Your Cat As Part of the Family

What about relatives, neighbors, and friends? Would they make good pet sitters? It depends. If the person you have in mind is cat savvy and knows how to take care of your cat, then by all means, have that person be your pet sitter. However, friends and relatives, no matter how well intentioned they may be, may not be smart when it comes to cats. You can come home to a dirty litter box and pee on the carpet because your friend didn’t scoop. Your friend might let your cat outside, thinking she will come back. Your relative might have forgotten to check your cat’s water. There are many reasons to use friends, neighbors, and relatives, and twice that many not to. Even if you make yourself clear, leave written instructions, and insist they follow them; sometimes they will do the exact opposite.

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156 Before you decide to take your cat to work, you must take the following into consideration:

• • • • •

Your cat must be socialized and must be well-behaved—no exceptions. You’re inviting disaster otherwise. She has to get along with other people, children, and even other animals. If you’re not self-employed, approval of the boss (and company) beforehand is essential. Your liability insurance should cover accidents or injury your cat may cause. You must adequately prepare for what you’re going to do with your cat while you actually do work. Does your cat nap? Does he like to greet people? Do you have water, food, litter box, and a carrier set up?

If you’re able to bring the cat along, do it during a slow time and give your cat time to adjust to the new surroundings. The excitement of the new place may be a bit overwhelming at first, but eventually it’ll become old hat and your cat will get used to it.

What You Now Know . . . You can have a lot of fun with your cat at work, at play, and on vacation. Your cat can either go with you on vacation, you can board her, or you can hire a pet sitter. Some cats go to work with their owners. You can try this during Take Your Pet to Work Day.

Appendix

Useful Resources How to Use This Appendix This appendix consists of resources you can photocopy to track various aspects related to your cat—from vaccination records and training records to chore lists and emergency preparedness measures. Label a three-ring binder “Cat Records” and make as many copies of the forms in this appendix as you need. As you fill out the forms, place them in your notebook for reference.

Cat Breed List Abyssinian American Bobtail American Curl American Shorthair American Wirehair Balinese Bengal Birman Bombay British Longhair British Shorthair Burmese

California Spangled Chartreux Chausie Colorpoint Shorthair Cornish Rex Cyrmric Devon Rex Don Hairless Egyptian Mau European Burmese Exotic Havana Brown

157

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

158 Highland Fold Himalayan Japanese Bobtail Javanese Korat LaPerm Maine Coon Cat Manx Munchkin Nebelung Norwegian Forest Cat Ocicat Ojos Azules Oriental Persian Peterbald Pixiebob

Ragamuffin Ragdoll Russian Blue Savannah Scottish Fold Selkirk Rex Siamese Siberian Singapura Snowshoe Somali Sphynx Tiffany/Chantilly Tonkinese Toyger Turkish Angora Turkish Van

159 Appendix

Vaccination Record Fill out this form for each vaccination your cat receives.

Kitten Age

Vaccination Type

8–10 weeks 10–12 weeks 12–14 weeks 15–18 weeks

Rabies

Date

Next Vaccination Due

1 Year Vaccination Type

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Rabies

2 Years Vaccination Type

3 Years Vaccination Type Rabies

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160

4 Years Vaccination Type

Date

Next Vaccination Due

5 Years Vaccination Type

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

6 Years Vaccination Type Rabies

7 Years Vaccination Type

8 Years Vaccination Type

161

Vaccination Type

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Date

Next Vaccination Due

Rabies

10 Years Vaccination Type

After 10 Years Vaccination Type

Appendix

9 Years

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162

Veterinary Record Keep track of vet visits with this form.

Dewormings Date

Type

Next Fecal Exam

163 Appendix

Veterinary Visits Date

Reason

Medications Medication

Dosage per Day

Condition

Interactions

Surgeries Date

Reason

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164

Heartworm Tests and Preventives Year: ________ Heartworm Test Date

Results

Preventive Given

Date

Month 1 Month 2 Month 3 Month 4 Month 5 Month 6 Month 7 Month 8 Month 9 Month 10 Month 11 Month 12

165

Fill out this chore chart to determine who’s responsible for the cat’s care and check off each box when the chore is done. Daily Chores Feed cat breakfast and check water Feed cat lunch and check water Exercise/play with cat 1/2 hour Scoop litter box Feed cat dinner and check water Exercise/play with cat 1/2 hour

Weekly Chores Clean litter box Brush and examine cat Clip cat’s claws Bathe cat

Whose Turn? Mon. Tues. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun.

Appendix

Chore Chart

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166

Emergency Veterinarian Numbers Tape this list by the phone. Contact Primary Veterinarian Primary Veterinarian’s On-Call Number Secondary Veterinarian Emergency Clinic Emergency Clinic Local Poison Control Hotline Poison Control Hotline

Telephone Number

167

□ Pet first-aid kit □ Enough pet food and potable water for three days □ Copies of your pet’s health records and vaccination records □ Pet’s medication □ Photos of your pet, in case he gets lost □ Bowls, leashes, and can opener □ Travel crates □ Hotel contact #1 ____________________________________________________________________ □ Hotel contact #2 ____________________________________________________________________ □ Hotel contact #3 ____________________________________________________________________ □ Hotel contact #4 ____________________________________________________________________ □ Hotel contact #5 ____________________________________________________________________ □ Emergency vet #1 ___________________________________________________________________ □ Emergency vet #2 ___________________________________________________________________ □ Emergency vet #3 ___________________________________________________________________ □ Emergency vet #4 ___________________________________________________________________ □ Emergency contact number #1 _________________________________________________________ □ Emergency contact number #2_________________________________________________________ □ Boarding kennel #1 __________________________________________________________________ □ Boarding kennel #2__________________________________________________________________ □ Boarding kennel #3 __________________________________________________________________ □ Boarding kennel #4__________________________________________________________________ □

__________________________________________________________________________________

□

__________________________________________________________________________________

□

__________________________________________________________________________________

□ __________________________________________________ □

________________________________________________

□

__________________________________________________

□

___________________________________________________

□

____________________________________________________________

Appendix

Disaster Preparedness Checklist

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168

Pet Sitter Journal Pet Sitter Name: Dates on Vacation:

Pet’s Name

Species

Contact Information

Telephone Number

Cell Phone Veterinarian Contact info Emergency Veterinarian Contact info Emergency Contact info Hotel Phone

Hotel Name

Dates There

Visitation Instructions Visit times a day Instructions:

Play with

times a day

Feeding Instructions Feed cups of Feed cups of Feed cups of Feed cups of Special Feeding Instructions:

food to food to food to food to

(name) (name) (name) (name)

169

Name

Medication

How Often/dosage

Vaccination Records Name

Special Instructions:

Last Rabies Vaccine

Adverse Reactions

Appendix

Medications

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170

Kennel Information Sheet Pet’s Name

Species

Contact Information

Telephone Number

Cell Phone Veterinarian Contact info Emergency Veterinarian Contact info Emergency Contact info Hotel Phone

Hotel Name

Dates There

Feeding Instructions Feed cups of Feed cups of Feed cups of Feed cups of Special Feeding Instructions:

food to food to food to food to

(name) (name) (name) (name)

Medications Name

Medication

How Often/dosage

Adverse Reactions

171

Name

Special Instructions:

Date of Vaccinations and Type

Appendix

Vaccination Records

Index apartment dwellers, 7, 10, 112 ASPCA, poison control center, 61 Association of Animal Control Officials (AAFCO), 85–90 attics, cat-proofing checklist, 59 automatic self-cleaning litter boxes, 39 automobiles, 66–67, 149–151

A abscesses (cellulitis), health problem, 97 Acarexx (ivermectin), 97 accessory toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 accidental elimination, cleanup, 122 activity levels, ownership, 10–11 adoptions, 23–25, 29–31, 33 adult cats abandonment reasons, 29 behavior/manners training, 79–84 Canine Lullabies, 78 first day(s)/night(s) guidelines, 77–78 initial veterinarian visit, 67–68 new home introduction, 74–76 ownership pros/cons, 16 SnuggleKitte companion, 77–78 temperament testing, 32–33 versus kittens, 16 Advantage (Imidacloprid), flea systemic, 96 age, kitten/new home introduction, 31, 75 aggression, behavioral problem, 137–139 agility training, 103, 130–131 airline travel, guidelines, 149 alarm clock, sleeping companion, 77 all-cat clinics, pros/cons, 45 Allerca, hypoallergenic cat research, 10 allergies, 10, 29, 98–99 American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), veterinarian resource, 46, 47 American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP), vaccinations, 68 American Cat Fanciers’ Association (ACFA) breeder referrals, 19–20 breed registry, 14 recognized breeds, 16–17 American Pet Product Manufacturer’s Association (APPMA), 37 animal hospitals, pros/cons, 45

B backyards, 61 basements, 59 bathrooms, 54 baths, techniques, 105–106 bedrooms, 55, 57 beef, FSE (feline spongiform encephalopathy) risk, 92 behavioral problems, 137–143 behaviors, household manners, 79–84 Biospot for cats (Pyriproxyfen), 96 blindness, nutritional deficiency as cause, 87 blow-dryer, grooming implement, 104 boarding kennels, 152–154 body, home health examination, 93 bones, health concerns, 88 Bordetella Bronchiseptica (FeBb), vaccine, 71 boundary training, guidelines, 80–81 breakaway collar, purchasing, 41 breeders behavioral problem cat return, 143 desirable traits, 18–20 interview questions, 20–23 breeds, recognized, 16–17, 157–158 breed-type foods, pros/cons, 88 broken bones, emergency care techniques, 113 brushes, 42, 105 bumps/lumps, health problem, 102 burns, emergency care techniques, 113

175

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

176

C cancers, injection-site sarcomas, 68–69 Canine Lullabies, cat sleep aide, 78 canned foods, pros/cons, 87 car accidents, emergency care techniques, 113 cardiomyopathy, nutritional deficiency as cause, 87 carriers, 40, 49, 66–67 cat bed, purchasing, 38 cat breed list, 157–158 Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) breeder referrals, 19–20 breed registry, 14 declawing position, 82 recognized breeds, 16–17 cat fences, outdoor excursions, 36, 37 catnip, 40, 41 catnip-filled toys, purchasing, 44 cat-proofing childproof latches, 62 dryer concerns, 58 emergency telephone numbers, 59 household checklists, 52–61 mouse/rat poison concerns, 60 overhead concerns, 52 cat tree, purchasing guidelines, 40 cellulitis (abscesses), health problem, 97 checklists adoption, 31 attic cat-proofing, 59 backyard cat-proofing, 61 basement cat-proofing, 59 bathroom cat-proofing, 54 bedroom cat-proofing, 55, 57 breeder interview questions, 20–23 cat supply, 43 children’s room cat-proofing, 57 dining room cat-proofing, 56 disaster preparedness, 167 emergency, 109–110 garage cat-proofing, 60 household cat-proofing, 52–61 kitchen cat-proofing, 53 laundry room cat-proofing, 58 living room cat-proofing, 54–55 office cat-proofing, 56–57

ownership questions, 7–9 pedigreed cat resources, 18 pet shop adoption questions, 27–28 shelter/rescue adoptions, 25–26 traveling, 150 veterinarian interview questions, 46–47 childproof latches, cat-proofing, 62–63 childproof outlet covers, cat-proofing, 63 children allowable behavior/manners, 79–84 kitten’s fragility concerns, 7, 10 new cat/household introduction, 67 ownership responsibility concerns, 7 pinworm risk debunked, 72 roundworm risk, 73 tapeworm risk, 73 children’s bedroom, cat-proofing checklist, 57 Chlamydia Psittaci, vaccination guidelines, 70 choking, emergency care techniques, 113 chore chart, 165 claws, 82, 107–108, 142 clay litter (nonclumping), purchasing, 39 clicker training, 103, 126–132 clumping clay litter, purchasing guidelines, 39 coats, 15, 104–106 colds, health problem, 99 collars, purchasing guidelines, 42 combs, 42, 104, 105 come command, 129 commands, clicker training, 126–128 conditioner, 42, 104 Cornish Rex, hairless breed, 15 corn litter, purchasing guidelines, 40 counter creeping, behavioral problem, 140 covered litter boxes, purchasing guidelines, 39 crystal litter (silica crystals or gel), 40 cue words, clicker training, 128–130 cuts, emergency care techniques, 114

D dead animal presentation, reasons for, 142 declawing (onychectomy), 82, 142 dehydration, 99, 114–115 demodectic (Demodex) mange mites, 97 deworming, reasons for, 72

177 emergency clinics, pros/cons, 45 enclosures, outdoor excursions, 36, 37 environment apartment dwellers, 7, 10 outdoor cat health risks, 6–7 ownership considerations, 6–7 safe rooms, 36, 74 workplace, 155–156 enzymatic cleaner, purchasing guidelines, 40 euthanasia, reasons for, 4 examinations, home health, 93 exercise, 102–103, 125–133 external parasites, prevention, 95–97 eyes, home health examination, 93

F family

E ear mites (Otodectes cynotis), 97 ears, 93, 107 electrocution, emergency care, 115 emergencies broken bones, 113 burns, 113 checklist items, 109–110 choking, 113 cuts, 114 dehydration, 114–115 difficulty breathing, 113 electrocution, 115 first-aid kit, 111–112 frostbite, 115 heatstroke, 114–115 high-rise syndrome, 112 hit by car, 113 hypothermia, 115 injuries, 114 insect bites (stings), 115 natural disasters, 116–117 poisoning, 116 restraints, 111 shock, 116 veterinarian care telephone numbers, 111, 166

allowable behavior/manners, 79–84 disaster planning guidelines, 116–117 first day(s)/night(s) guidelines, 77–78 new cat introduction, 74–75 FDA (Food and Drug Administration), food labels, 88–90 fear aggression, reasons for, 138 FeBb (Bordetella Bronchiseptica), vaccine, 71 feedings, 4, 85–91, 128 feline calicivirus (FCV), 70, 99 Feline Distemper, vaccination guidelines, 70 feline herpesvirus (FHV), 70, 99 Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV), 6, 71–72 feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), 6, 71 Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), 6, 70–71 Feline Panleukopenia (FPV), vaccine, 70 feline spongiform encephalopathy (FSE), 92 Feliway’s Pheromone Spray and Diffuser, 78 females, 15, 94–95 feral cats, adoption concerns, 33 fibrosarcomas, injection-site sarcomas, 68–69 Fipronil and Methoprene (Frontline Plus), 96 Fipronil (Frontline), flea systemic, 96 first-aid kit, emergency care, 111–112 fishing toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 flea allergy dermatitis, health problem, 98–99 flea bite dermatitis, health problem, 98–99 flea comb, 42, 104

Index

diabetes, health problem, 99 diarrhea, health problem, 100 difficulty breathing, emergency care, 113 digestibility, cat food guidelines, 86, 88–90 digital rectal thermometer, 101 dining rooms, cat-proofing checklist, 56 disaster preparedness checklist, 167 disasters, emergency care techniques, 116–117 dog foods, reasons not to feed, 87 dogs, 75–76, 121 domestic longhair (DLH), moggie versus pedigreed cats, 13–14 domestic shorthair (DSH), moggie versus pedigreed cats, 13–14 doors, childproof latches, 62–63 dryers, cat-proofing concerns, 58 dry foods, pros/cons, 87

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

178 fleas, 95–96 food allergies, health problem, 98 food rewards, clicker training, 128 foods, 42, 85–92 food/water bowls, purchasing guidelines, 42 free cats, adoption concerns, 29 friends, new cat introduction, 74–75 Frontline (Fipronil), flea systemic, 96 Frontline Plus (Fipronil and Methoprene), 96 frostbite, emergency care techniques, 115 fur, 93, 105 fur toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 FVR (Viral Rhinotacheitis), vaccine, 70

G games, owner/cat activities, 131–133 garages, cat-proofing checklist, 60 gel (crystal litter), purchasing guidelines, 40 groomers, when to use professionals, 103–104 grooming, 4, 15, 42–43, 103–108

H hairballs, health problem, 100 hairless, pros/cons, 15 handling, proper techniques, 80 harnesses, 36, 41 Havahart traps, versus mouse/rat poison, 60 health certificates, vacation travel, 149 health insurance, cost considerations, 48–49 health problems abscesses (cellulitis), 97 allergies, 98–99 bad behavior cause recognition, 136 blindness, 87 cardiomyopathy, 87 colds, 99 dehydration test, 99 diabetes, 99 diarrhea, 100 diet (food allergies), 98 ear problem recognition, 107 emergency care techniques, 109–117 external parasites, 95–97

FCV (feline calicivirus), 99 FeLV (feline leukemia), 6 FHV (feline herpesvirus), 99 FIP (feline infectious peritonitis), 6 FIV (feline AIDS), 6 flea allergy dermatitis, 98–99 flea bite dermatitis, 98–99 FSE (feline spongiform encephalopathy), 92 hairballs, 100 hepatic lipidosis, 86 home health examination, 93 hyperthyroidism, 101 injection-site sarcomas, 68–69 litter box avoiding, 122–123 lumps/bumps, 102 over-the-counter medicine, 100 overweight cat determination, 102 ringworm, 101 stray cat concerns, 30 teeth problems, 101–102 tooth/gums, 106 vomiting, 100 health risks, 6–7, 35–36 heartworms, health risks, 73–74 heatstroke, emergency care, 114–115 hepatic lipidosis, liver failure risk, 86 hit by car, emergency care techniques, 113 holidays, avoiding new cat/household, 65–66 homemade diets, health concerns, 88 hookworms, infestation methods, 73 hotels/motels, vacation travel guidelines, 151 households allowable behavior/manners, 79–84 boundary training, 80–81 cat-proofing, 36–37 cat-proofing checklists, 52–61 first day(s)/night(s) guidelines, 77–78 indoor versus indoor-outdoor cats, 35–36 kitten danger zones, 78 new cat introduction, 65–66 new cat/family and pet, 74–76 safe room guidelines, 36, 74 sleep aids, 77–78 supplies, 38–44 hyperthyroidism, health problem, 101

179

I ID tags, 38, 41, 145–146 Imidacloprid (Advantage), flea systemic, 96 inappropriate defecation, 141 inconvenience, ownership consideration, 5 indoor cats, life expectancy, 35 indoor-only cats, flea prevention, 95 indoor-outdoor cats, versus indoor-only cats, 35–36 ingredients, cat food guidelines, 86, 88–90 injection-site sarcomas, 68–69 injuries, emergency care techniques, 114 insect bites (stings), emergency care, 115 internal parasites, deworming reasons, 72–74 International Cat Association (ICA) breeder referrals, 19–20 breed registry, 14 recognized breeds, 16–17 ivermectin (Acarexx), 97

J journals, pet sitter, 168–169

K kennel information sheet, 170–171 kill shelters, adoptions, 24 kitchens, cat-proofing checklist, 53 kittens AAFP vaccination guidelines, 68 abandonment reasons, 29 behavior/manners training, 79–84 Canine Lullabies, 78 danger zones, 78 first day(s)/night(s) guidelines, 77–78 first-year cost considerations, 5, 6 fragility concerns, 7, 10 gift, 66 hypoallergenic cat development, 10

initial veterinarian visit, 67–68 internal parasites, 72–73 multiple adoption pros/cons, 32 new home introduction, 31, 74–76 ownership pros/cons, 16 selection guidelines, 31–32 SnuggleKitte companion, 77–78 temperament testing, 31–32 time/living commitments, 4–5 unplanned litter concerns, 30–31 versus adult cats, 16 kitty fishing, owner/cat activity, 132 kitty obstacle course, clicker training, 130–131

L labels, cat food guidelines, 86 latches, cat-proofing safety item, 62–63 laundry room, cat-proofing checklist, 58 leashes, purchasing guidelines, 41 legs, home health examination, 93 lifespan, 4, 35 life-stage foods, pros/cons, 88 liners, litter box, 121 litter, 39–40, 73, 119–120 litter box, 4–5, 39, 73, 83, 119–124 litter scoop, purchasing guidelines, 40 living rooms, cat-proofing checklist, 54–55 longhairs, pros/cons, 15 loud noise (thunder), behavioral problem, 140 low-cost clinics, pros/cons, 45 Lufenuron (Program), flea systemic, 96 lumps/bumps, health problem, 102

M mad cat disease, FSE (feline spongiform encephalopathy), 92 males, 15, 94–95 mange mites, treatment techniques, 97 Marco Polo game, clicker training, 131–132 meats, FSE (feline spongiform encephalopathy) risk, 92 medical records, veterinarian visit, 72 microchips, identification method, 146–147

Index

hypoallergenic cat, research, 10 hypothermia, emergency care techniques, 115

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

180 MilbeMite Otic (Milbemycin oxime), 97 Milbemycin oxime (MilbeMite Otic), 97 mites, infestation types, 97 mobile clinics, pros/cons, 45 moggies, 13–14, 23–25 motels/hotels, vacation travel guidelines, 151 mouse poison, cat-proofing concerns, 60 mouse toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 mouth, home health examination, 93

N nail clippers, 43, 105 National Association of Professional Pet Sitters, 154 natural disasters, emergency care, 116–117 NDR (National Dog Registry), tattoos, 146 neighbors, controlling your cat, 83 neutering, 6, 15, 94–95 no-kill shelters, adoptions, 24 nonautomatic self-cleaning litter boxes, 39 nonclumping (traditional) clay litter, 39 nose, home health examination, 93 Notoedres cati (scabies mange mites), 97

O offices, cat-proofing checklist, 56–57 onychectomy (declawing), 42, 82 open litter boxes, purchasing guidelines, 39 Otodectes cynotis (ear mites), treatment, 97 outdoor cats, 6–7, 35–36, 83, 84 outlet covers, cat-proofing safety item, 63 overstimulation, reasons for, 138 over-the-counter medicines, 100 overweight cats, determinations, 102 ownership, 4–11, 13–16, 29

P pain aggression, reasons for, 138 paper pellet litter, purchasing, 40 pedigreed cats, 13–15, 18, 23–25 pellet litter, purchasing guidelines, 40

personality, 10–11, 31–33 Pet Assure, pet health insurance, 48 PetCare Insurance Programs, 48 pet health insurance, 48–49 Pet Plan Insurance (Canada), 49 Petshealth Insurance, 49 pet shops, 26–28 pet sitters, 154–155, 168–169 Pet Sitters International, 154 pets, new cat introduction, 75–76 pet spas, vacation travel, 152 pin brush, grooming implement, 105 pinworms, children’s risk debunked, 72 plants, poisonous varieties, 62 play/prey aggression, reasons for, 139 poisons, 16, 60–62, 100 popularity, ownership statistics, 3 prey animals, new cat introduction, 76 professional groomers, when to use, 103–104 Program (Lufenuron), flea systemic, 96 puzzle toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 Pyriproxyfen (Biospot for cats), 96

Q questions adoption checklist, 31 boarding kennel interview, 152–154 breeder interview, 20–23 cat food worksheet, 90–91 ownership, 7–9 pet shop adoptions, 27–28 shelter/rescue adoptions, 25–26 veterinarian interview, 46–47

R rabies, vaccination guidelines, 69 rat poison, cat-proofing concerns, 60 raw diets, health concerns, 88 records, 159–164 redirected aggression, reasons for, 139 reputable breeders, desirable traits, 18–20 rescue organizations, 23–26, 33, 143 responsible breeders, desirable traits, 18–20

181

S safe rooms, household guidelines, 36, 74 safety ASPCA poison control center, 61 emergency telephone numbers, 59 kitten danger zones, 78 poisonous plants, 62 supplies, 62–63 sarcomas, injection-site, 68–69 scabies mange mites (Notoedres cati), 97 Scat Mat, boundary training, 80 scents, boundary training, 80 scratching post, 38–39, 81–83 scratch training, guidelines, 81, 83 selamectin (Revolution), 96–97 self-cleaning litter boxes, 39 services, cost considerations, 5, 6 sexual organs, home health examination, 93 shampoo, 42, 104 shelters, 4, 23–26, 143 shock, emergency care techniques, 116 shorthairs, pros/cons, 15 silica crystals (crystal litter), purchasing, 40 Simon says, owner/cat activity, 133 sit command, clicker training, 130 size, selection element, 15 skin, home health examination, 93 skin snap text, dehydration checking, 99 slicker brush, grooming implement, 105 Snappy Trainer, boundary training, 80 SnuggleKitte, cat sleeping companion, 77–78 socialization, 74–76, 79–84, 108 spaying, 6, 15, 94–95 Sphynx, hairless breed, 15 spraying, 41, 123–124 squirt bottles, boundary training, 80 SSScat!, boundary training, 80 Sticky Paws, boundary training, 80, 82, 83

storage containers, cat-proofing safety item, 63 strays, adoption concerns, 30 styptic powder, grooming supply, 105 supplies checklist, 43 cost considerations, 5, 6 grooming implements, 42–43, 104–105 purchasing guidelines, 37–44 vacation travel, 148–149

T tail, home health examination, 93 tapeworms, children’s risk, 73 target stick, clicker training, 128 Tattoo-A-Pet, tattoo referrals, 146 tattoos, identification method, 146 teaser toys, purchasing guidelines, 44 teeth, 101–102, 106–107 telephone numbers, 59, 61, 111, 166 temperament testing, 31–33 temperature, digital rectal thermometer, 101 tendonectomy, CFA’s position, 82 thunder (loud noise), behavioral problem, 140 ticks, removal techniques, 96–97 toothbrush, 43, 105–107 toothpaste, 43, 105–107 toys, purchasing guidelines, 43–44 traditional (nonclumping) clay litter, 39 training agility, 130–131 boundary, 80–81 clicker, 103, 125–133 litter box, 83 scratch, 81, 83 time/living commitment, 4–5 transportation, new cat guidelines, 66–67 traps, versus mouse/rat poison, 60 travel carrier, purchasing guidelines, 40 traveling, 147–152 treat hiding, owner/cat activity, 132 treats, 42, 128 tricks, clicker training, 131 tunnels, outdoor excursions, 36

Index

restraint, emergency care techniques, 111 Revolution (selamectin), 96–97 ringworm, health problem, 101 Rocky Mountain Poison Control Center, 61 roundworms, children’s risk, 73

Bring Me Home! Cats Make Great Pets

182

U university clinics, pros/cons, 45 urination, spraying reasons, 123–124

V vacations, travel guidelines, 147–152 vaccination records, 159–161 vaccinations, 69–72 vegetarian diets, health concerns, 88, 91–92 veterinarians cost considerations, 5, 6 deworming, 72 emergency care techniques, 109–117 emergency telephone numbers, 111 facility types, 45 health certificates, 149 heartworm test/preventative, 73–74 home health examination, 93 injection-site sarcomas, 68–69 interview questions, 46–47 locating, 46 medical records, 72 neutering, 94–95 new kitten/cat initial checkup, 67–68 onychectomy (declawing), 82, 142 over-the-counter medicine, 100 pet health insurance, 48–49 selection guidelines, 45–48 spaying, 94–95 vaccinations, 69–72 veterinary boarding facilities, 152 veterinary clinics, pros/cons, 45 Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI), 49 veterinary record, 162–164 Viral Rhinotacheitis (FVR), vaccine, 70 vocalizations, behavioral problem, 140 vomiting, health problem, 100

Web sites AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association), 46 Affordable Cat Fence, 37 Allerca, 10 Alley Cat Allies, 33 Alley Cat Rescue, 33 breeder referrals, 19 Canine Lullabies, 79 Cat Enclosure Kit, 37 Cat Fence-in, 37 Feliway’s Phermone Spray and Diffuser, 79 Karen Pryor, 126 KV Vet Supply, 81 Pet Assure, 48 PetCare Insurance Programs, 48 Pet Plan Insurance (Canada), 49 Petshealth Insurance Agency, 49 Purrfect Cat Fence, 37 rescue organizations, 23 Scat Mat, 80 Snappy Trainer, 80 SnuggleKitte, 79 Sticky Paws, 80 VPI (Veterinary Pet Insurance), 49 wheat litter, purchasing guidelines, 40 wood pellet litter, purchasing guidelines, 40 workplace, Take Your Pet to Work Day, 155–156 worksheets, cat food, 90–91 worms, deworming reasons, 72–74

X X-mat, boundary training, 81

Y yards, 61, 83

W wardrobe, supplies, 41 water bottle (hot), cat sleeping companion, 77 water/food bowls, purchasing guidelines, 42 wave command, clicker training, 130

Z zones, kitten danger, 78