Beginner Serging: Machine Basics & Techniques

Citation preview

Intermediate Level

Beginner Serging

Machine Basics & Techniques WITH AMY ALAN

Amy Alan

Amy teaches sewing at Modern Domestic in Portland, Ore. and blogs at Really Handmade. She started crafting as a small child and has always made an effort to turn the everyday into art!

www.craftsy.com

Beginner Serging:

Machine Basics & Techniques

with Amy Alan Supply List Essential Supplies • Serger, with all accessories, oil and manual • Small scissors (Amy recommends 4” long embroidery scissors for snipping threads, and 8” long bent shears for cutting fabric) • Fray Check • 4 cones of polyester serger thread in different colors • Decorative serger thread • Iron • Cutting mat • Rotary cutter • Seam ripper • Acrylic quilting rulers • Sewing pins (Amy prefers glass head) • One ½ yard of fusible fleece (Amy recommends Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus) • One 16”-18” centered zipper

• • • •

• • • • • • • •

Fabric pen or chalk Large blunt tapestry needle or double-eye needle Long serger tweezers or hemostat Different sizes of needles, ones appropriate for your machine, thread and fabric (70/10- 90/14 in ballpoint, topstitching, universal) Three-ring binder Three-hole punch Ink pen Stapler Narrow bodkin, strap turner, or small safety pin 2 paper towels Lint brush ½ yard of at least three different types of fabric for sample serging (thick wool, fleece, plain weave cotton, quilting cotton, velveteen, poplin, twill

1

• • • •

•

weave bottom weight, linen, taffeta) ½ yard of 60” wide interlock knit fabric ½ yard of 60” wide woven fabric 1 yards of 45” wide cotton ¼ yard of four coordinating graduating colors (see Ombré Ruffle Apron Handout before purchasing) 2 fat quarters of quilting cotton

• • •

Ironing board Needle threader Painter’s tape or clear tape

Optional • ¼” wide narrow elastic (for bonus lesson) • Thin silk ribbon or yarn (for decorative thread lesson) • Water soluble stabilizer • Empty serger cone • Horizontal spool holders • Clover Chaco Liner • Pressing cloth

Threads & Fabric List The threads and fabrics listed are ones that Amy chose to use in each lesson, and are not particular types, colors or brands required for the creation of the class projects. This information is for you to look through while deciding what kind of fabrics and threads you would like to use, in the case that you would like to match those used by Amy. Lesson 2: Your Serger & How It Works Thread • Toldi-Lock in colors 1970 (gold) , 6785 (blue), 4685 (red), 7550 (teal) Fabric • Anti-pill fleece from Joann Fabrics

2

• • •

Polyester chiffon from Mill End Fabrics Kona cotton in Ash Polyester/cotton blend jersey from Joann Fabrics

Lesson 3: Basic Stitches Thread • Toldi-Lock in colors 1970 (gold) , 6785 (blue), 4685 (red), 7550 (teal) Fabric • Anti-pill fleece from Joann Fabrics • Polyester chiffon from Mill End Fabrics • Kona cotton in Ash • Polyester/cotton blend jersey from Joann Fabrics Lesson 4: Decorative Stitches Thread • Toldi-Lock in colors 1970 (gold) , 6785 (blue), 4685 (red), 7550 (teal) • River Silks 4mm 100% silk ribbon from www.riversilks. com • Maxi-Lock spun polyester serger thread in Blue Mist and Pink • Maxi-Lock Stretch serger thread in Blue Mist • Wonderful Razzle Rayon in gold • Rayon Madeira embroidery thread, color 1153 • Coats and Clark Dual Duty 100% polyester all-purpose in color 684D • Debbie Bliss 100% merino wool Rialto Lace yarn, color 44011, dye lot 328

Fabric • Anti-pill fleece from Joann Fabrics • Polyester chiffon from Mill End Fabrics • Kona cotton in Ash • Polyester/cotton blend jersey from Joann Fabrics Lesson 5: Troubleshooting Your Serger Thread • Toldi-Lock in colors 1970 (gold) , 6785 (blue), 4685 (red), 7550 (teal) Fabric • Anti-pill fleece from Joann Fabrics • Polyester chiffon from Mill End Fabrics • Kona cotton in Ash • Polyester/cotton blend jersey from Joann Fabrics Lesson 6: Exposed Zipper Bag Thread • Maxi-Lock spun polyester serger thread in Swiss Beauty • Maxi-Lock Stretch serger thread and spun polyester in Eggshell Fabric • Poetica by Art Gallery Fabrics (artgalleryfabrics. com)

3

• •

Lilly Belle designed by Bari J for Art Gallery Fabrics Washi by Rashida Coleman-Hale for Timeless Treasures Fabrics

Lesson 7: Ombré Ruffle Apron Thread • Maxi-Lock spun polyester serger thread in Blue Mist and Pink • Maxi-Lock Stretch serger thread in Blue Mist and Medium Pink Fabric • Kona cotton in (darkest to lightest) Pacific, Water, Alegria, Lake and Sky • Moda Bella Solids in (darkest to lightest) 217, 214, 91, 166 and 38 Lesson 8: Striped Knit Scarf Thread • Maxi-Lock spun polyester serger thread in Poppy Red • Coats and Clark colors 6840 and 230 • Wonderfil Razzle Rayon in green, gold and ruby • Toldi-Lock in color 1970

4

Fabric • Offray ribbon in green and red • Floral cotton from Mill End Fabrics • Linen from Joann Fabrics • Ivory interlock knit from Mill End Fabrics • Sailboats by Dear Stella in Navy • Black and stone wool from Pendleton Mill Outlet • Gold interlock from Fabric Depot Lesson 9: Bonus – Serger Feet Thread • Toldi-Lock in colors 1970 (gold) , 6785 (blue), 4685 (red), 7550 (teal) Fabric • Anti-pill fleece from Joann Fabrics • Kona cotton in Ash • Polyester/cotton blend jersey from Joann Fabrics • ¼” stretch elastic from Dritz

Serger Stitch Uses

4-thread overlock • Perfect for seaming both knits and wovens, as it’s a strong stitch • Most commonly used stitch, as it’s very durable • Use when gathering (tighten the needle tensions) for more dramatic ruffling 3-thread overlock (use left or right needle) • Can be used to seam, but don’t use it on any seam that will have a lot of stress on it • If you do use this to seam, use the left needle to give your project more seam allowance on thick to medium weight fabric. Use the right needle for thin fabric • Nice choice for finishing thick and medium weight woven fabric edges, knits and sewing a blind hem

3-thread narrow seam • Use to finish the edges of lightweight fabric if you do not have 2-thread options • Use on lightweight fabric to make a very narrow but strong seam • Makes a beautiful flat but filled-in seam for edging with decorative threads 2-thread overlock (use left or right needle) • A variation of the flatlock, this stitch makes a delicate finish that’s nice for lightweight fabric

© Lunov Mykola/Shutterstock

Overlocking Overlocking is the most common use for a serger. It’s used on nearly every single manufactured garment, because it creates a durable seam while finishing the garment edge.

5

•

Generally not appropriate for seaming because the stitch locks at the edge and not the needle line Use the right needle for an alternative to a roll hem

2-thread wrapped overlock (use left or right needle) • A lovely edge finish for fine and lightweight fabrics • It makes a reversible edge for home dec items and garment edges • A wrapped stitch has maximum stretch for knit seams • Stitch is very nice when used with decorative thread Flatlocking • Can be serged along a fold or two edges of fabric, and then opened so the fabric lays flat • The ladders can create the effect of hand stitching on thicker fabrics • A great choice for thick sportswear fabric, both for seaming and decorative stitching on the outside, but know that it may not

6

•

hold up under high stress points The stitch is reversible, with loops on one side, and ladders on the other

3-thread flatlock • Use this stitch if your serger doesn’t have a spreader for make a 2-thread flatlock • Very nice to use decoratively 2-thread flatlock (use left or right needle) • Is easier to flatten than a 3-thread flatlock • Best stitch for applying lace and lingerie elastic • Don’t use this where a sturdy seam is essential, because it’s not strong

© PunkbarbyO/Shutterstock

•

Roll Hem • Very nice on hems and also for making pintucks • Does not work well on thick fabric, and will look nicest on a single layer of fabric • Not usually used for seaming 2-thread roll hem • Best hemming choice for lightweight fabrics • Looks great with shiny thin decorative threads

3-thread roll hem • Best hemming choice for medium weight fabrics • Nice to use with fuller decorative threads Stitch Tips • If a stitch is too narrow, it may not be durable or press flat • If a stitch is too wide, it can cause puckers in the seam

Resources Online Stores • bernina.com Find Bernina serger machine dealers near you • fabricdepot.com Buy Gingher scissors and other supplies • joann.com Buy Fray Check and other supplies

Online Resources • reallyhandmade.com Amy Alan’s blog • schmetzneedles.com Learning center information about proper serger needles for household overlock machines Books • The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide by Naomi Baker, Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski (Krause Publications, 1996)

7

© iravgustin/Shutterstock

Serger Checklist

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

8

Power switch Large screwdriver Small screwdriver Bulb holder Brush and needle inserter Tweezers Upper looper converter Oiler Spool caps Thread nets Thread stand Spool holder pin Foam pad & anti-vibration cone Thread guide Handwheel Handwheel indicator Thread tension dials Waste collector Looper cover Cloth plate Threading diagram Standard presser foot Presser foot catch button Presser foot lifter

o o o o o o o

o o o o o o o o o o

Stitch plate Feed dogs Lower looper/ upper looper Lower looper auto threader Upper and lower knife blades Cutting width adjustment dial Lower knife setscrew Attachment screw for accessories Lever for overlocking or rolled hemming Thread take-up cover Needles Needle threader Needle clamp Thread cutter Presser foot pressure knob Stitch length dial Differential feed adjustment dial Micro thread control lever

Serger Stitches

KEY Y = yes; N = no; S = standard; L = low; M = medium; H = high

4-Thread Overlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

S

S

S

S

Y

N

Cutting Width

Narrow to Wide

Stitch Length

Standard

Very good for sewing together both knits and wovens, as it’s a strong seam. The most commonly used serger stitch, as it’s durable.

3-Thread Overlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

S

—

S

S

Y

N

Cutting Width

Narrow to Medium

Stitch Length

Standard

Stitch is formed with one needle (either L or R) and both loopers. Not a strong seam, but nice for finishing seam allowances and edges. Can be adjusted to create the flatlock.

9

3-Thread Flatlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

L

—

S

H

Y

N

Cutting Width

Narrow to Medium

Stitch Length

Standard

Created with the same set-up as the 3-thread overlock, using either needle. Tighten the lower looper and loosen the needle tension to make this stitch. Use if there’s no spreader for the upper looper for a 2-thread flatlock stitch.

3-Thread Narrow Seam

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

—

S+

M

S+

N

N

Cutting Width

Narrow

Stitch Length

Short

Use the right needle and slightly tighter tensions, with the narrowest cutting width, to make this stitch.

10

3-Thread Roll Hem

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

—

S

S+

M

N

N

Cutting Width

Stitch Length

Narrow

Short

Tightening the lower looper and loosening the upper looper allows the upper looper to be pulled over the fabric edge, wrapping it. Use decorative thread in the upper looper for a nice full finished look.

2-Thread Overlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

L

—

—

M

Y

Y

Cutting Width

Narrow to Medium

Stitch Length

Standard

Using only one needle (either is fine), this stitch is different from a flatlock in that it’s not as loose, and isn’t made to open up. Not a good choice for seaming; it’s best as a seam finish on lightweight fabric.

11

2-Thread Wrapped Overlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

M

—

—

L

Y

Y

Cutting Width

Narrow to Medium

Stitch Length

Standard

A delicate finish for nice lightweight fabric. Adjusting the tensions so the looper thread wraps around the fabric edge makes it a wrapped stitch. Different from a roll hem in that the fabric doesn’t roll.

2-Thread Flatlock

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

L

—

—

M

Y

Y

Cutting Width

Narrow to Medium

Stitch Length

Standard

The truest flatlock stitch, it’s made using either the left or right needle, the lower looper, and the spreader. Not appropriate for regular seaming, but nice for seam and edge finishes. Opens up to reveal either “ladders” or loops.

12

2-Thread Roll Hem

Left Needle

Right Needle

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Rolled Hem Finger

Looper Release

—

S

—

S

N

Y

Cutting Width

Stitch Length

Narrow

Short

Best on thin fabric, this stitch is nice for hemming, edge-finishing and pintucks. Doesn’t work well on thick fabric.

TROUBLESHOOTING Stitch & Mechanical Issues

The stitch has poor tension

Stitches hang off the edge of the fabric

Solutions

•

Check tension dial settings, adjusting only one at a time

•

Shorten the stitch length to loosen looper tension, lengthen the stitch length to tighten

•

Adjust tension for thread and fabric type

•

Tighten looper tensions

•

Lengthen the stitch

•

Use a stretch thread or a finer thread

•

Make sure the machine is properly threaded and all guides are in use

•

Adjust the cutting width

•

Check that you’re using the correct stitch plate or stitch finger

13

TROUBLESHOOTING Stitch & Mechanical Issues

Stitch quality is poor

Skipped stitches

Solutions

•

Check the threading path, making sure nothing is catching on burrs and everything is threaded properly

•

Balance the stitch tensions

•

Replace the needle

•

Trim the fabric while serging

•

Use high-quality threads

•

Adjust tension for thread and fabric type

•

Use a larger needle size or one appropriate for fiber content

•

Increase the presser foot pressure

•

Loosen the tightest tension

•

Increase the stitch width or length

•

Make sure the needles are correct for the machine, fabric and thread, and are’t bent or dull

Stitches separate • from the fabric • edge •

Stitches won’t form

14

Increase the stitch length Use a smaller needle Stabilize the fabric edge before sewing

•

Check that machine is on, looper cover is closed, and machine is plugged in

•

Check that the presser foot is lowered

•

Place all threads under the presser foot and make a thread chain before serging

•

Check that you’re using the right needle type, and it’s inserted properly.

•

Make sure the threads are in the tension disks

TROUBLESHOOTING Stitch & Mechanical Issues

Stitches are uneven, heavy, or bunching

The machine is loud or makes a clicking noise

The needles break

Solutions

•

Lengthen the stitch

•

Use a finer thread that isn’t too stiff or thick

•

Adjust the tension for thread and fabric type

•

Use a spool cover or thread nets, or horizontal spool holders

•

Adjust presser foot pressure

•

Use a needle with a large enough eye

•

Check that the needles are fully inserted and are correct for the machine brand

•

Make sure the fabric isn’t too thick for the blades to cut

•

Check that the tensions aren’t too tight, inhibiting the movement of the fabric

•

Don’t pull the fabric thru the machine

•

Insert a new needle all the way into the shaft

•

Loosen the needle tensions and the upper looper tension

•

Serge slowly if serging heavy or textured fabrics

•

Check that the needle isn’t hitting the foot or looper

•

Check that the needle is the correct system for your machine

•

Lower the tension on the thread that is breaking

•

Change the needles and check that it’s inserted correctly

The thread keeps • breaking

Look for burrs or anywhere the threads could catch

•

Adjust the tension, as is may be too tight for the thread being used

•

Re-thread the machine in the correct sequence

15

TROUBLESHOOTING Stitch & Mechanical Issues

Fabric jams in the serger

Solutions

•

Check for tangled or caught threads

•

Look at the blades to see that any fabric being cut isn’t entering the machine

•

Check that the blades are engaged and sharp

•

Use textured nylon thread

•

Cover the hem with a wash-away stabilizer

• Edges are ragged • or uncut • •

16

Widen the stitch length Check to see if blades are dull Make sure the fabric isn’t too thick to be cut by the blades Move the fabric closer to the blades

6 mm 10 mm 12 mm 16 mm 19 mm

15 14 13 12 11

1 in2

0 cm 1

2

1 cm2

1

3

Fat Quarter (18"x21"): 46 cm x 54 cm Half Yard (18"x44"): 46 cm x 112 cm Yard (36"x44"): 92 cm x 112 cm

4

1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4"

2

Convert to...

6

SEAM ALLOWANCES If you see...

10 9

11.4 cm 22.9 cm 30.5 cm 34.3 cm 45.7 cm 57.2 cm 61.0 cm 68.6 cm 91.4 cm 114.3 cm 137.2 cm 160.0 cm 182.9 cm 205.7 cm 228.6 cm 251.5 cm 274.3 cm 320.0 cm 365.8 cm

8

1/8 yd 1/4 yd 1/3 yd 3/8 yd 1/2 yd 5/8 yd 2/3 yd 3/4 yd 1 yd 11/4 yd 11/2 yd 13/4 yd 2 yd 21/4 yd 21/2 yd 23/4 yd 3 yd 31/2 yd 4 yd

7

3 mm 6 mm 8 mm 10 mm 12 mm 16 mm 17 mm 19 mm 2.5 cm 3.2 cm 3.8 cm 4.4 cm 5.1 cm 5.7 cm 6.4 cm 7.0 cm 7.6 cm 8.9 cm 10.2 cm 11.4 cm 12.7 cm 14.0 cm 15.2 cm 17.8 cm 20.3 cm 22.9 cm 25.4 cm 28.0 cm 30.5 cm

1/4" 1/3" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 2/3" 3/4" 1" 11/4" 11/2" 13/4" 2" 21/4" 21/2" 23/4" 3" 31/2" 4" 41/2" 5" 51/2" 6" 7" 8" 9" 10" 11" 12"

5

1/8"

5

Convert to...

4

If you see...

3

LENGTH

Convert to...

0 in

LENGTH If you see...

6

Metric Conversion Guide

Exposed Zipper Bag

with Amy Alan

Supply List • Serger • Cutting mat • Rotary cutter • Acrylic quilting ruler • 4 cones of serger thread • Paper scissors • 2 Fat quarters of quilting cotton • One ½ yard of fusible fleece • One 16”-18” centered zipper • Clover Chaco Liner

18

Cutting Instructions • Cut each fat quarter so that it is 18” x 13”. • Cut the fusible fleece so that it is 18” x 13”. • Cut a strip of the lining fabric so it is 2” x 6” for the pull tab. • Save the extra scraps to use for testing your stitch!

Instructions Iron the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the outer bag fabric. Mark the center of the long edge of the bag lining with a small notch on both long sides. Set up the serger for a 4-thread overlock. Test the stitch.

RS

WS

© BrunoRosa/Shutterstock

Begin by making the bag pulls. Serge a thread chain that is about 8” long, and place in inside the folded pull tab fabric (RST). Serge the pull tab along the long raw edges and use the thread chain to turn it right side out. Snip the chains and cut in half.

Pin the two short ends of the fabrics onto either side of the right leg of the zipper, having their right sides touching, and serge next to the zipper. Open up the the two pieces of fabric, and flip them to serge the other two sides to the left leg of the zipper.

19

Arrange the bag fabric so the lining is on the outside. Line up the zipper with the notches on the lining fabric, and pin a folded pull tab on either end of the zipper. Pin the side opposite the zipper pull closed.

WS

RS

Serge the edge together on the pinned side after shortening the stitch length. Reach into the bag and unzip the zipper half way. Pin and serge the other short end and snip the thread chains. Finger press each corner along the folded edge.

20

Pinch the bottom of the bag corners, matching up the finger pressed line and the serged side seams. Measure down from the corner point along the seam 2”, and draw a line with the chalk. The line should be 4” long. Serge along this line, making sure the needle runs along the line you drew.

2"

Seal and snip any loose thread chains and turn the bag right side out.

Ombré Ruffled Apron

Supply List • Serger • Cutting mat • Rotary cutter • Acrylic quilting ruler • Thread – polyester and decorative • Iron and ironing board • Small scissors or thread snips • Clover Chaco liner • 8” Gingher bent shears • 1 yard of 45”-wide cotton (will be background, ties and top ruffle color) • ¼ yard EACH of 45” wide cotton in four other ruffle colors

Cutting Instructions • Cut a 24" piece of fabric for 20" the apron body that measures 20” long x 24” high. Mark lines every 4” across the front of the apron. • Cut 2 apron ties, measuring 45” long x 2” wide. • Cut 5 ruffle strips (one out of every color), measuring 45” long by 6” wide. • Save 5 strips of fabric that are 2” wide and at least 18” long for test serging.

21

Instructions Set up the serger for a 4-thread overlock with polyester thread, and test it. Adjust the differential feed and turn up the needle tensions to make ruffles. Test on a scrap, and then use on one long ruffle edge. Measure the ruffle out to 23½” inches long and cut off the extra ruffle length.

on one-by-one, starting with the bottom ruffle. The bottom ruffle should be the darkest color you’ve chosen.

23½"

Set up the serger for a 3-thread rolled hem with wooly nylon and test it.

Pin the last ruffle (the lightest one in color) on the top of the apron, but don’t flatlock it.

Set up the serger for a 2-thread flatlock with polyester thread, and test it. Lay out four ruffles ¼” from the apron edge and serge them

22

© Zhukov Oleg/Shutterstock

Around both long edges and one short end of both apron ties, and the un-serged long edge and each short end of each ruffle strip, serge a rolled hem. Clip and seal the threads and set aside.

Set up the serger for decorative thread with a 3-thread overlock and test it. Serge the top and the bottom of the apron with the decorative thread. Pin the raw edges of the apron ties to the top corners (WST), with them flipped to the back of the apron. Serge down the sides of the apron body, keeping the ruffles out of the way. Seal the thread tails after placing the thread chains inside the dec. stitching lines.

Clip all thread tails and seal with Fray Check.

Striped Knit Scarf Supply List • Serger • Cutting mat • Rotary cutter • Acrylic quilting ruler • Thread- rayon and thicker decorative • 8” Gingher bent shears • ½ yard of 60” wide interlock knit fabric • ½ yard of 60” wide fabric (cotton, twill, denim, wool) • Clover disappearing pen • Thin ribbon (¼” wide or less) or yarn • Narrow bodkin, strap turner or small safety pin

Cutting Instructions • Cut both the knit and the woven fabric so that they are 60” long x 14” wide

23

Instructions Cut out the fabric per the handout instructions. Set the woven fabric aside. Mark lines every 4” along the length of the knit fabric.

Set up the serger for a 2-thread flatlock. Test the stitch. Sew a flatlock stitch long each of the chalked lines, with RST and knife disengaged. Using the bodkin, feed a length of ribbon through the ladder stitch left from opening up the flatlock stitch. Leave tails of ribbon at both ends of the ladder, and pin.

Serge the short ends together, creating a long loop. Serge the short ends of the woven fabric together also. Snip the thread chains. Feed ribbon through the knit fabric loop seam as well. Once all of the ribbon is fed through, pin the woven fabric circle to the knit, having wrong sides together. Set up the serger for a 3-thread overlock, with the thick decorative thread in both loopers. Test the stitch. Cut a small ¼” wide and 2” long strip out of both the top and the bottom of the scarf. Set the standard foot in the notch, and serge around the edge of the scarf, cutting off ¼”, and meeting back up at the notch. Overlap the beginning stitch by two stitches, and remove from the machine. Repeat on the other side. Weave the thread tails in to finish the decorative stitching.

24

© 2012 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc. Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy is not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by or in any way officially connected with any of the products featured in this video. All product and company names, logos, brands, or other trademarks or images featured or referred to in this video are the property of their respective trademark holders. The use in this video of the products and any protected intellectual property is used for illustrative purposes, and no commercial claim to their use, or suggestion of sponsorship, affiliation or endorsement, is made by Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy.

Cover image: © Craftsy.

If questions come up during your class, we’re here to help. Just send us a note at [email protected] or visit us at www.craftsyhelp.com.