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ALTAI -HIMALAYA
ALTAI-
HIMALAYA A
By
Travel Diary
NICHOLAS ROERICH
WITH TWENTY REPRODUCTIONS FROM PAINTINGS
FREDERICK NEW YORK
A.
STOKES COMPANY MCMXXIX
Copyright, 1929, by
CORONA MUNDI, INTERNATIONAL ART CENTER, INC. All Rights Reserved
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
——
PUBLISHER’S Zuloaga, visiting the Roerich
NOTE
Museum
New
in
York, in an
interview for the press, said: “In the creative art of Roerich,
which
see that
have always
I
Russia some force
cannot impart what great
artist,
coming
is
is
it
felt.
to the
—but
I
Here
is
world
—
realize
its
I
evidence that from I
cannot measure,
I
approach: Roerich
great worker; his creation expresses proud and lofty
sentiments.” Boris Grigorief has said: “His
Before
world. great
artist,
and
me I
able to arouse the
name
is
on the
of the entire
lips
the magazine, Studio, dedicated to our
is
am proud when human soul.”
think that Roerich
I
so
is
Whitman, valuing the interwork of Roerich, wrote: “We who
In the Foreword (1925), Serge national significance of the last
search the paths of international understanding and the structure of universal peace,
must look upon Roerich
forerunner of
new world
this
Ivan Narodny,
in
a
of
recent
all
as the apostle
and
nations.”
“Prophet of Universal
article,
Beauty,” said: “Leonardo da Vinci was at the same time a painter,
an architect and an engineer. he
said of Roerich
not only a towering painter, but a profound philosopher
is
and
The same can be
a distinguished scientist.”
An
extensive literature has been dedicated to Nicholas Roerich.
Information of his
monographs doni
life
and works up
of A. Rostislavov (1918); A.
(1915); N. Selivanova
(1916);
S.
to 1916,
Makovsky
(1923); in
(1906-16);
S.
may
be had in the
Mantl (1910); A. Guiarticles of A. Benois
Yaremitch
(1916);
L.
Andreyef (1918); A. Remisoff (1916); M. Voloshin, G. Bottomley, S.
Gorodetzky,
W.
Baltrushaitis,
[v]
I.
Lazarevsky,
I.
Takeuchi,
V. Pica, L. Vauxelles, Arsene Alexandre, A. Koiransky, B. O. Dymoff, M. Fokine, Denis Roche,
Grigorief, Phillips,
Leo Feigenberg, O. M.
M. Martin and
Sayler, C.
Sir
Claude
Brinton, V. Ritter,
others.
Special issues of magazines were dedicated to Roerich’s art
by
Mir
lss\ustva;
lss\ustvo;
Decoratif, Paris; Studio,
Vessi;
Zolotoye
Runo;
L’Art
New
York;
London; The Touchstone,
London; Gazette des Beaux Arts, Paris; Volne Smeri, Prague; Dilo, Prague; Art and Archceology, Washington; and Colour,
many
others.
Information about his various foreign works
many
New
series
of editions: Studio,
is
strewn in
London; International Studio,
York; Emporium, Milan; Les Arts
et les Artistes, Paris;
Volne Smeri and Dilo, Prague; Deutsche Kunst, Darmstadt; The
many
Review, Calcutta; and
other Hindu, Japanese and Ameri-
can magazines.
The
New
large
York
of 1923-25.
monograph, “Himalaya,” published by Brentano’s,
(1926), gives 100 reproductions of Roerich’s paintings
The monograph
published by Corona Mundi, Inter-
national Art Center, in 1923, also “Nicholas Roerich,” published
by Editions de
la
Revue du Vrai
et
du Beau,
as well as Roerich’s
works “Adamant” (1923) and “Paths of Blessing” (1925), quaint us with his consciousness in
For four and a half
all its
years, Roerich in
encompassed Central Asia.
phases.
an unrepeatable
circle,
Starting in the Himalayas so beloved
of him, he courageously brought his obstacles again to the
ac-
same place
Expedition through
all
in the foothills of these highest
mountains of the world.
The
entire series of paintings
orable journey
Expedition will is
which he made on
that
mem-
and the published works of the members of the reflect its
valuable results.
Now
the opportunity
offered to read Roerich’s travel notes, those “thoughts
upon
horseback and in the tent,” induced by the contemplation of lofty
[vi]
PUBLISHER’S NOTE mountains and boundless deserts wrapped in the inviolable secrecy of the East.
What
is
book?
this
work
because such a
still
is
to be written.
No.
geographer or an ethnologist? Asia.
In
Obviously not,
a scientific treatise?
Is it
It
the diary of a
Is it is
Symphony
the
Some such phrase would characterize it best. conclusion it may not be amiss to quote a fragment
of Roerich’s letters sent International Art
from
Center, in
Little
of one
Corona Mundi,
Tibet, to in
1925,
of
which he
indicates
his
program and purpose: “Friends,
it
would have been
the entire journey in
all
its
far easier for
me
have
to
fairy-tale of ‘fantasy,’
set
which
down colors
every peak and every desert space with unprecedented truth.
But then some will be incredulous, ness does not believe in the sun.
Facts are needed.
already rising?
down fragments
setting
the East.
now
its
.
.
down
setting
sleeps in dark-
possible that the sun
it
am
who
writing only
of the thoughts as they
But even in
related.
East.
As
am
I
Is I
he
as
distances
facts,
and
tales,
facts.
now as
the Sunrise comes
I
live
is
am in
they are
from the
.”
news from the Roerich American Expedition,
after
lengthy wanderings in Tibet, came this telegram on
May
the
first
24, 1928:
“Roerich
American
artistic
and
of paintings to
after
many
Thus ended big Central
reached Himalayas.
Many
Expedition
scientific results.
New
safely reached you.
Hope
York.
Many
“Expedition started in
hardships
Asiatic Expedition.
Already sent several last
has
series
sending from Mongolia
observations regarding Buddhism.
1924 from Sikhim through Punjab,
Kashmir, Ladak, Karakorum, Khotan, Kashgar, Karashahr, Urumchi,
Irtysh, Altai
Mountains, Oyrot region, Mongolia, Central
Gobi, Kansu, Tsaidam, Tibet. [vii]
PUBLISHER’S NOTE “Peaceful American flag encircled Central Asia.
Everywhere
warmly greeted except Khotan and Lhasa Governments. Further movement Expedition from Khotan assisted by British Consul at
On
Kashgar. robbers. spite of
Tibetan territory have been attacked by armed
Superiority of our firearms prevented bloodshed.
Tibetan passports Expedition forcibly stopped by Tibetan
authorities
on Oct.
6,
two days north of Nagchu. With inhuman
cruelty Expedition has been detained for five
of
In
summer
15,000 feet in
tents
months
at altitude
amidst severe cold about 40
degrees below Centigrade.
“Expedition suffered from want of fuel and fodder. stay in Tibet five
During
men, Mongols, Buriats and Tibetans died and
By order of authorities all Lhasa Government and Calcutta
ninety caravan animals perished. letters
and wires addressed
Forbidden to speak to passing cara-
British authorities seized.
vans.
to
Forbidden to buy foodstuffs from population.
and medicines came
to
an end.
The
presence of three
Money
women
in
caravan and medical certificate about heart weakness not taken into consideration. tion
started
Expedition
With
southward. safe.
severe Winter.
great difficulties
on March
All nine European
4,
members
Expediof the
Courageously bore hardships of exceptionally Greetings.”
[viii]
CONTENTS PAGE
Publisher’s
Note
v
Introduction by Claude Bragdon
xiii
PART I.
India (1924)
1
SlKHIM (1924)
31
III.
Pir-Panzal (1925)
69
IV.
Ladak (1925)
83
II.
V. Lamayuru-Hemis (1925) VI. VII. VIII.
IX.
100
Leh— Karakorum— Khotan Khotan
Takla Makan
—Karashahr
—Dzungaria
Karashahr
XII.
125
160
(1925-1926)
(1926)
(1926)
X. Altai (1926) XI.
(1925)
193
255
334
Mongolia (1926-1927)
351
Tibet (1927-1928)
3 66
Glossary
395
[lx]
ILLUSTRATIONS Reproductions from Paintings by Nicholas Roerich in the Roerich
Museum New Yor ,
/^
Portrait of Nicholas Roerich by Sviatoslaw Roerich
.
Frontispiece FACING PAGE
Commands of Rigden
2
Japo
Tibetan Lama
26
Sanctuaries and Citadels
58
Confucius the Just
88
(
Banners of the East Series )
Lamayuru Monastery
(
Leh, Ladak
Series )
Karakorum
( Maitreya
Lada \ )
( Maitreya
Series )
120
Pass
Signs of Maitreya
104
140 ( Maitreya
168
Series )
Guardian of the Entrance
190
Sacred Caves
236
( Maitreya
Series )
Woman
264
Mongolian Lama
298
Tibetan
Oirot, Messenger of the
White Burkhan
(
Banners of the East
Series )
336
Tenpei-Jal-Tsin Baishin, City of the Ja-Lama in the Central Gobi
356
Tsam
366
in
Mongolia
Sharugen Kham, Tibet
376
Chatu Gompa on the Brahmaputra
378
Chungtu Royal Monastery Near Saskya
380
Shekar Dzong (Near Shigatse)
390
[xi]
—
INTRODUCTION On May
1923, Nicholas Roerich left
8,
America
for India,
and
he has been wandering about in remote, dangerous and seldom“Altai-Himalaya”
visited parts of Asia ever since.
is
the record
of his mission, just as his series of pictures “Tibetan Paths,”
“Banners of the East,” “His Country,” are records in terms of
But “Altai-Himalaya,” though penned on horseback and
paint.
in the tent,
and
under conditions the most
much
as
some
of the earth’s
medium
more than
Roerich works, or in whatever he artist,
it
is
be on
Now,
a character its
word: what do
I
to
is
for Roerich an
tion,
because
it
most
mean by
form
ill
man.
compounded
Though
in this connection?
it
if I
failed to
to avoid
I
yet I
have in mind?
justify
it,
of view
intelligible or
Without attempting
therefore,
I
shall
in the
same sense
And
to elucidate, explain or
from which one may regard Roerich life
life.
to
even plausible what
simply say that there
powers which preside over the
a ques-
mentioning what seems
how
make
should per-
answer such
the very raison d’etre of his journey, his art, his possible to
and
of such unusual elements
me
is it
sincere
ears either a meaningless or a hateful
service
would be
expressing, there
uncomprehended.
esoteric side
“esoteric”
is
For in whatever
but the embodied intelligence
the man, the whole character of the
as to
a literal transcription
most magnificent scenery.
shines forth not only the
simple,
much more,
richer than the ordinary diary of travel, as his
paintings of the Himalayas are of
difficult, is as
as
is
a tenable point
an envoy of those
and evolution of humanity
that gardeners preside over a garden: that he
journeys into desolate and forbidden lands for the fulfillment of a mission the purpose of
which [
xiii ]
will increasingly reveal
itself.
INTRODUCTION Whether one
believes this or not,
it
would be hard
ambassador of good will from the West
better
accomplishment and
culture, Roerich
is
to the East, for
summit
the reason that although he represents the
imagine a
to
European
of
deeply Oriental in his
temperament, sympathies and point of view.
One
has only to look at
imagine
— the
to see
—
or, if
reincarnated Eastern sage.
Ladak
India, in Tibet, in nesses
him
of Siberia he
(Little Tibet),
you must have
Certain
and
it
is
it so,
that in
in the white fast-
was received with an honor, accorded a
confidence and even an affection, quite different from the ordi-
nary attitude of these peoples toward strangers, which has the reputation of being covertly or openly hostile.
Roerich and his
caravan encountered frustration and
too,
measure, but
it
to the spiritual
tered
was
is
interesting to note
hostility,
how
exactly in proportion
unique quality, and their recog-
nition of the unprecedented nature of his mission
among them.
This book was written “in the saddle,” more
about
in full
development of the various peoples he encoun-
their response to his
figuratively.
and
There
is
a certain vividness,
literally
than
immediacy, authenticity
for this reason, giving the reader a sense of actual par-
it
ticipation perhaps impossible to be imparted in
any other way,
together with intimate glimpses of the workings of the author’s
mind
in
the presence of sublime scenery,
new human
types,
strange manners and customs, and under the assaults of hardship,
danger, and the stresses and strains of exploration in almost un-
trodden lands. personality, of
Roerich
is
a
man
of original, strong and definite
which everything he does bears the stamp.
expressions are themselves revealing, eloquent
—not
attempting to describe.
only of him-
The
self,
but of the thing he
and
three- word sentences, the subjects without predicates
is
have been suffered to remain have so
much
just as
one-, two-
xiv
]
—they
he wrote them because they
the merit of the sketch, the jotting, put [
His
down
in
INTRODUCTION the
moment
of that “first fine careless rapture”
premeditated form of art
This
a
is
and even
is
likely to leak
book whose surface
for concealing
from
which
in a
more
away. sake of
exists for the
its
depth,
but the most penetrating, what
all
But in order
that depth contains, as surfaces sometimes do.
to
give you every possible advantage, and for your further enlight-
enment upon Roerich’s antecedent accomplishments and life, I shall devote the remainder of this essay to what I have learned and know of Roerich, and what In the history of the fine
from time
to
I
think of him.
arts, certain
individuals have appeared
time whose work has a unique, profound and indeed
them from their conclassify them in any known
which
a mystical quality
differentiates
making it impossible to category or to ally them with any school, because they resemble themselves only and one another, like some spaceless and timetemporaries,
—
less
order of
Such were Leonardo, Rembrandt,
initiates.
Diirer,
Blake, and, in other fields, Beethoven and Balzac; such also, in our
own
times and in a lesser way, were Rodin, Ryder and
work shows
Burne-Jones, for their eerie beauty
which
the sign
is
flashes of that
daemonic and
whereby they may be
identified as
belonging to that mythical mystic brotherhood. Roerich, in his self as a
life,
member
the time of his
in his character
of this fraternity.
first
—Europe,
auras of diverse peoples,
seeds of their
of
For
thirty-five years
—he
America, Asia
scattering
him-
—since
has been going
making pilgrimages
and always and everywhere
some
in his art reveals
exhibition in Russia
and down the world
of beauty,
and
—absorbing
to
up the
remote places,
wisdom, planting seeds
which have sprung up, flowered, and
scattered
own.
In Russia, as secretary of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts,
and
later as director of the school of that society,
he was
an important agent in organizing and coordinating that native,
new and powerful impulse which [xv]
in painting, in music, in the
:
INTRODUCTION drama and in the dance later spread throughout the civilized world for it is not too much to say that everything which now goes by the name of modernism had Russia for
nificant in this connection that Stanislavsky
aid in the
Moscow Art
the Sacre
dn Printemps,
mise-en-scene,
and
It is sig-
enlisted Roerich’s
Theatre, that Stravinsky, dedicated to for
that
which Roerich designed the
Andriev, Gorky, Mestrovic,
who
Tagore and others throughout the world newness, have paid
cradle.
its
him
the tribute of their
him
original
Zuloaga,
represent the
homage and
their
praise.
Coming
to
America with an exhibition
of his paintings, at
the invitation of the Chicago Art Institute, Roerich immediately
took steps to resume and repeat the work he had inaugurated in Russia, that of uniting the arts,
beauty, for he believed, as
many
that beauty
and
is
the universal
national animosities
may
and thus uniting others are
To
this
with the help of friends, a school in which
were
to
Arts,
and
be taught, under the
The
which usually
beset
home on
filled in:
of
all
this
of the fine arts
Intervicissi-
character in a
image of which would be
—but
it
Riverside Drive,
by Roerich
and
end he founded,
Corona Mundi, an
enterprises
rush-light in a wind-swept darkness
vast outlines, sketched
racial
school passed through those
civilization such as ours, the best
to-day a permanent
to believe,
of Master Institute of United
a year later he established
national Art Center.
tudes
title
coming whereby
true solvent
be dissolved.
men through
survived,
New
at this time,
a
and has
York.
Other
have not been
they include Cor Ardens, an affiliation of the creators
of beauty everywhere throughout the world, and Alatas, an international,
non-commercial publishing association for the
inter-
change and dissemination of new and constructive ideas through the I
mediumship
of the “art preservative.”
mention these enterprises
to
show
vision, to indicate his function as a
[xvi]
the vast sweep of Roerich’s
prophet and a pioneer, clearly
INTRODUCTION foreseeing and quietly planning a better order in a world in the grip of
its
so recent terrible nightmare, not yet risen
a bed drenched with blood
Should
and stained by
come
his prophecies
true,
still
from
tears.
and should
his
dreams of
binding humanity into a brotherhood through beauty materialize, it is
for this that
he will doubtless be most honored and longest
remembered, but
known
painter of hauntingly
a
as
and on a
are of all kinds
he
to us, his contemporaries,
is
naturally best
These
beautiful pictures.
vast variety of subjects, but in general
they represent nature strained through a mystical consciousness
—the
light that
is
on
sea
and land
translated,
by some potent
magic, into the light that never was on sea or land. the idealist without affronting the realist.
satisfies
Hindu to
novelist
know how
and
poet,
remarked
to a friend that
Mukerji, the if
he wanted
the Himalayas impressed a beholder, he should
see Roerich’s paintings of
them, because along with a true render-
ing of their form and color, something of their
municated
Roerich
was com-
spirit
too.
After a brief sojourn in America he forsook the ordered and easy
life
of
cities,
difficulties of
and unappalled by the
such a quest, he
set
rigors,
dangers and
out for Asia, “trailing clouds of
glory” as he went, so to speak, in the shape of paintings of the
Grand Canyon, the Santa Fe country, the Pacific, India and the Far East. The culmination of his life work, up to the present, is
in those
Path,”
groups of paintings named by
“Himalaya,” and
him “The Tibetan
“Banners of the East.”
These are
freighted with mystical meanings which, even though unintelligible to all save the initiated, yet act
consciousness as does perfume the emotions. cryptic
It is
upon the
upon
senses, or as
its
music upon
not that Roerich attempts to be deliberately
—on the contrary, a great deal of his
naive in
the unenlightened
simplicity— but the average
idea of esotericism, that
it
symbolism
mind
is
so resents the very
closes itself to a certain extent.
[xvii
]
almost
INTRODUCTION Roerich’s symbolism, as
I
say, requires
no
glossary, possessing
An
the characteristics of directness and universality.
method
of his general
what he names
seen in that painting of
is
example
“The Miracle.” It represents a titanic Grand Canyon, a world primeval, stark,
the Messiah series, entitled, valley, not unlike the
Prominent in the
rock-strewn, without visible flora or fauna.
foreground
On
road.
and over
a natural bridge,
is
the near side of the bridge are a
bridge passes a
this
few human
prostrate before the miracle of a great radiance
figures,
coming from
behind the bridge, the aura of some supernatural presence whose figure
is
not yet
Here
visible.
symbology
a simple, natural
is
none of them
subject perhaps to different interpretations, but
Considered objectively, the picture
is
simply a
dramatization of that expectancy of a messiah which
is
so general
contradictory.
nowadays, and his presence
influence
it
holds forth the healing promise, that though
not seen, his aura brightens the darkness, his
is
already
is
denuded
subjectivity, the
the soul after
trials
Considered from the standpoint of
felt.
valley
might symbolize the condition of
and purgations; the road, the “small old
path” to freedom and perfection; the bridge, that stage on that
path where the transit
is
between the lower and the
effected
higher consciousness; the prostrate figures, those “qualities” which
must be redeemed and “carried of the
felt
approach of the “golden person” bringing release
from bondage through
the shining of the inward light.
But the great merit of
this
picture, freighted
as
it
is
with
class), lies in its
beauty of
and composition. The mystic and metaphysician
in Roerich
meaning (and color
over,” awe-struck at the miracle
that of others of
never submerge the
artist,
its
with the
himself the use of symbols he
still
is
his pictures are not sermons, but songs.
the fact that
it
conveys a message,
as a delight to the visual sense, [
when he
result that
is
lyrical
and not
]
literary:
“The Miracle,” not a morality so
abounding in
xviii
permits
spatial
despite
much
rhythms
INTRODUCTION and color harmonies
The
old yellow Chinese rug. indelible impression
and
as fine
is
nearest to the throne of
“story”
but the final
and
work
is
there,
this
is
as
it
priceless
should be,
talents the creative artist
is
God.
Roerich’s archaeological pictures
pioneer I
some
one of beauty, and
for in the hierarchy of trades
Of
subtle as those of
I
shall not speak,
nor of his
in the theatre, important as that has been, because
feel that these things,
and dominated
his
which
at
consciousness
important to him than what
I
one time absorbed
his
mind
have since become far
shall call his mystical quest.
has the feeling that in everything he does he
is
less
One
seeking the hidden
Word, in point of fact. hunter, armed not with a gun,
truth, the unrevealed beauty, the Lost
Like some mighty indefatigable
but with his pen and brushes, he stalks his quarry across oceans, rivers,
he
is
mountains, though knowing
seeking
is
in himself.
Both in
all
the while that the thing
his writing
and
in his paint-
draw beauty which
ing he permits us to participate in this adventure, and thus nearer to that truth which is
is
beauty,
and
that
truth.
Claude Bragdon
1
1
ALTAI -HIMALAYA
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Part
I
INDIA (1924) Siani glides by.
Here
the “Twelve Apostles”
—fantastic
the gateway to Mecca.
toward the center.
To
are the Wells of little
The
Here is
are
Jeddah,
the steamer are praying
behind the pink sands,
the right the boundaries of
ancient cornice.
Here
islands.
The Moslems on
East, where,
Abraham.
Nubia
hidden their
is
are lying like
hulks of wrecked vessels cleave to the
an
reefs.
The Red Sea can be merciless as can the Arabian sandstorms. Not in vain does the fiery finger of the Stromboli Volcano threaten and warn by night. But now in the winter the Red Sea is
blue, not hot,
and the dolphins leap
fairylike design lie the
The
Arabian Bays
mad
—Korya
Japanese do not lose an opportunity to
One
This nation does not waste time.
and sharply
their field-glasses
practical are their questions:
move
merriment.
In a
Morya.
visit
the Pyramids.
how quickly And how persistently
should see
about.
Nothing
the vacant touring of tired Europe.
come
in
superfluous.
“Well,
now
This
finally
is
we
not will
to an understanding,” says the Japanese in a businesslike
way without any
sentimentality.
And may
this
businesslike
attitude be the guarantee of cooperation!
In Cairo in the mosque
sat a
boy of seven or eight and chant-
ingly read the lines of the Koran.
One
could not pass by without
noticing his penetrating striving.
And
in the walls of that
mosque was boldly imbedded
the cannon-ball of Napoleon.
[1]
same
And
that
same conqueror
of empires broke the
image of the Great
Sphinx.
But
if
the sphinx of Egypt
mutilated, the sphinx of Asia
is
remains safeguarded by the great heart of Asia are preserved and
Ancient Ceylon are the palaces
are
met by
peddler.
—the
Lanka
Greek with
Italian chauffeur.
treasures of the
hour has come.
Ramayana. In
strange.
It is
The policeman
the Swiss Consul.
A
its
of the
and pagodas?
The
deserts.
is
Dutch
post-cards.
But where
Colombo we
A
Irish.
French
An
tea-peddlers.
But where are the Singhalese? Have they
all
emigrated to Europe?
The the are
Buddha and Maitreya reveal themselves in Kelaniya Temple near Colombo. The powerful images first
aspects of
guarded
in the
Hinayana prides
dusk of the temple.
itself
Mahayana on the refinement and purity of The great restored stupa near the temple re-
before many-varied its
philosophy.
minds one of the ancient foundation of all,
But, after
this place.
only in fragments do Colombo and Ceylon recall the ancient
Lanka
of
Hanuman, Rama, Ravana and
Buddhism, Ceylon
is
an important
other giants.
site.
Many
And
for
temples and
palaces guard the fragments of one of the best periods of the
Teaching.
Outside of the ruins which are known, numerous
unsuspected treasures are buried under the roots of powerful
That which has remained above the soil gives an idea of the past splendor of the former mighty city. You do not
jungles.
need to search for the
They proclaim
places.
exploration can only give results
measure.
One must approach
The
•
is
it
carried
such ruins fully
Ceylon
palace alone has 900 chambers. •
if
•
•
themselves.
is
on
But
in a broad
fortified, as
an important
one
site.
•
public baths near the bitter-sweet mountain, Lavinia, do
not suggest the domain of ancient giants.
[2]
Slender palms shame-
INDIA facedly
bend down
Like skeletons
the spray of the tide.
to
stand the fragments of Anuradhapura; consider that Anurad-
hapura
is
And Adam’s Peak is not enticing. Anuradhapura one may judge how powerful
not entirely explored.
By the remains
of
was Borobodur in
Java. •
And
•
•
again, ceaselessly, are gliding by the faces of our fellow
of the Cairo Pyramids,
whom we
with
travelers: the Japanese,
Is
it
Crevices of dessicated
And
south.
A
really India?
wept over the remains
which have passed from
become the curio-museum
to
•
•
of a greedy guide.
Meager
thin shore line.
So does India hide
soil.
a valiant history
its
trees.
little
face
from the
the black Dravidians as yet do not remind us of the
Vedas and Mahabharata. Multicolored All the
life, all
is
Madura with
the remains of Dravidian strata.
the nerve of the exchange,
was near the temple.
In the passages of the temple are the bazaar, the court, the
sermon, the elephant
reciter of the
who wanders
processions.
The
in
Ramayana, the
it.
But the
;
ingenious stone carving of the temple
much
Sarma, the
colors.
city council
did not listen to
the temple according to their that so
and the sacred
freedom and the camels of the
with the present-day crude over
gossip,
own
of fine understanding
is
is
him and is
gone and has
colored
sorrows
artist,
Sarma
plan.
religious
colored
saddened
as yet
been
replaced only by indifference.
He
warns us not to go
far in our
elements of the population city of 1,000,000.
Sarma
Europe and America. of is
may
be hostile.
attire
And
because some
yet
Madura
is
a
inquires about the condition of artists in
He
is
Europe and America can incomprehensible to
European
him
genuinely surprised that the live
by the labor of their hands.
that art can provide a [
3
artists
]
means of
It
liveli-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA With them,
hood.
the occupation of artist
There are almost no
one.
is
the most profitless
Sarma
collectors.
himself,
tall,
white garments, with sad, calm speech, awaits something
and knows
possibility of a
such things happen in in
and he
meeting with Tagore.
met George
not meet!
We
in
meeting him in
But in India
in Boston.
itself
York;
we
did
already was preparing for his tour in China.
There were many curious occurrences. to find Tagore.
New
could not go to Bolpur and Tagore could not
He
be in Calcutta.
Strangely
In London, the poet found us.
life.
America we succeeded
also
better,
the burden of the present.
all
There was no
Then
in
We
thought that in
would be known on every
In Calcutta
we
his native city his
We
corner.
took a
tried
name
motor and
requested to be taken straight to the poet Tagore, and in vain
we
rode for three hours through the
to
the
Then
Maharajah Tagore.
First
city.
we were taken
hundred policemen and
a
peddlers and passing Babus sent us into the most varied alleys. Finally six volunteer guides were hanging on our motor.
And
we ourselves, in this bushy manner, finally remembered the name of Dwarka nath Tagore Street where the house of Tagore
so
was
situated.
It is
tation
said that
when Tagore
from Calcutta came
received the
Nobel
prize, a
depu-
him, but the poet severely asked
to
them: “Where were you before?
I
remain the same person,
and the prize has not added anything
to
me.”
Greetings to
Tagore!
We
met
the relations of our friend Tagore
Tagore, brother of Rabindranath,
artist
Gogonendranath Tagore, nephew
head of the Bengal School.
of the poet, also an
retary of the Bengal Society of Artists.
modernists.
A
splendid
artist is [
Kumar 4
]
—Abanindranath
Now
artist, sec-
he imitates the
Haidar, present Director
INDIA
Much
artist.
resolution
all
Thorny
also
is
of
Vivekananda.
is
a
young
scientist, a biologist
He
began
In this
house above the laboratory
Ramakrishna, Vivekananda
carries into life the principles of
proclaimed his evocation to action and
vividly the portraits of
can explain
difficult? is
Why
his wife.
We
striving.
sat in
the path of
knowledge and beauty
is
the
does humanity accept with such hesitation
predestined?
to see that in India the
new
beloved leaders.
memorial hearth. Greetings!
this
It is
therefore the greater joy, to see in
India, the signs of an ascent of
legions of
his
Ramakrishna and
one with their purity and
why
name
top chamber he formulates his thoughts,
little
complete silence near
and
This young man, pupil of the
group.
this
fearlessly
faces impress
that
that
Here, before
his laboratory in the
little
to the relics of
Vivekananda,
who
One remembers
all
this
condition of scientists and
surrounded by the things which belonged to
most
it
a struggling
In his peaceful
closest pupil of
Who
is
scientists.
and other teachers of
Both
Why
Hindu
room dedicated
knowledge.
India!
artists of
of the
way
the
pupil of Sir Jagadis Bose.
this master,
Hindu
of the
life
precarious?
an example, in
is
the
is
needed in order not to abandon
countries of the world the
artists is so
us
is
Greetings to the
thorny path. in
Hard
Lucknow.
the School in
of
number
knowledge and of schools
is
art.
It is
joyful
increasing and that
enlightened workers for science and beauty are
ready to serve in the victory of evolution.
two monuments to Dakshineswar, the Temple where
In Calcutta, not far behind the
Ramakrishna.
On
one shore,
long lived Ramakrishna.
Almost
the Mission of Ramakrishna, the self,
city,
are
opposite, across the river,
mausoleum
of the teacher him-
of his wife, of Vivekananda, and a collection of [
5
]
is
many mem-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA orable objects.
Hindu is
Vivekananda dreamt
University.
that here should be a real
Vivekananda took care of
a great peace here
and
with
is
it
oneself so near to Calcutta with
difficulty that
one
realizes
its
bazaars
the terror of
all
There
this place.
and confusion.
We
met
Sister Christine,
Her
kananda.
now,
again to the old ness
is
work was broken up by
useful
after the lapse of site.
almost the only living pupil of Vive-
And
the war.
many years, Sister Christine has returned The people are changed. The conscious-
consumed with
And
local problems.
with the
Sister Christine to find contact
not easy for
is
it
new waves
of
Hindu
life.
On
the
memorable day of Ramakrishna,
as
many
as half a
million of his admirers gather. •
•
From
•
•
•
the purest to the most hideous: In special streets of
Bombay, behind
bars,
the
sit
women
merchandise which clings close to the hands, in their desecration.
calls,
And
a
prostitutes.
In this living
bars, in these outstretched
contained the whole terror of bodily
is
Hindu Sadhu
passes
through with his burning
incense in order to purify the spot!
When we
entered the Chartered
Bank
of India
door there came to meet us the sacred cow; and
amusing was
this correlation of •
The one
•
to shoot
them.
how
of the
strikingly
bank and sacred cow! •
•
•
The Maharajah
tigers roar in Jaipur.
—out
has forbidden any
In Golta Pass two tribes of
monkeys
are at
The guide arranges a battle for a most reasonable Nowadays all battles may be arranged thus easily!
war.
•
The cobras.
•
•
•
fee.
•
Fakirs are seated, “charming” the old, half-living toothless
The
pitiful
Hatha-yogi
is
whirling in the bazaar, making
[
6
]
INDIA the most gymnastic contortions for the purification of his
“The
horses, but to
do
this
make
to
offers
spiritualist”
the
carriage
spirit.
move without
is
necessary “that there should not be
is
a fantastic
it
one cloud in the sky.”
And
along with
of old Rajputana their balconies
this
—Amber where the princesses looked down from
upon
the tournaments of their suitors
gate, every little door, astonishes
Near here
beauty.
and romantic fragment
is
one by the correlations of
in
any fantasy
—only
is
Jaipur with
charm Agra
of an
—rare
fairylike astrological observatory
its
Hindu Moslem
unspoiled
chips of a departed culture.
city.
And
the “play”
And
can accumulate such unexpected creations.
life
its
the penetrating and fantastic Golta Pass
which could not be imagined of
where every
;
here also
and with the
Fatehpur-Sikri, the frescoes of
Ajanta are already unsafe. •
•
•
•
•
All the remains of the constructions of
seeming sadness. Here the great Unifier of best visions so misunderstood Sikri,
he conversed with
who had
attained his level.
knowledge.
Here he
by
his
a veil of
country buried his
his contemporaries.
In Fatehpur-
wise Birbal, and with the few
his
Here he
built the
temple of universal
few friends and foresaw that the
lost his
would not be
welfare of the State created by him,
And Agra and
Akbar have
preserved.
Fatehpur-Sikri are full of a kind of limitless
Akbar knew how the well-being which he bestowed on his people would be pillaged. Perhaps he already knew how the last emperor of India would live to the middle of the ninesorrow.
teenth century, peddling the furniture of his palace and chipping
from the walls of
his palace in •
With Benares
all still
Delhi the fragments of mosaics. •
•
•
•
the dustiness gathered by time, the architecture of retains
its
charm.
All the mixture of form of the
[7l
ALTAI-HIMALAYA old Hindu, Dravidian and Moslem, can give
One can
the unprejudiced architect.
easily
new
solutions to
imagine a combina-
tion of the many-storied Tibetan structure, with the comforts of
One can draw
an American sky-scraper.
palaces of Benares to the palaces of Venice private dwelling.
One can
I
Hindu complained
said to
idea,
but
to
me
him, “If there are no let
and
to a
livable
develop the style of American pueblos,
with the newest understanding,
A
from the
a parallel
as
is
being done in Santa Fe.
of the lack of
architects, let
him proceed from out
of the
an
Hindu artist
harmony
consciousness combined with the character of
its
architects.
develop an of the folk
One One
nature.”
cannot defile the whole world with a uniform building.
make
cannot
visualize
Comanches and Apaches
propriateness
On
out of Java a Swedish Stockzund.
like a chalice, offers his entire
man, cupping
possessions to the rising
In the evening she
may
fireflies
of the
woman’s
the dark watery surface.
soul, prayer-inspired, travel
minded
of other things.
priests of the
these
long upon
We
spirit
golden temples.
We
who
send
recall those
Yogis
into space their thoughts, thus constructing the
Not
And
Beholding these offerings of the
one can even forget the stout
tion.
again be
sending upon the stream of the sacred river a garland
of lights as prayers for the welfare of her children.
are
his
quickly telling her rhythms performs her morn-
ing Pranayama on the shore. there,
Ap-
must be maintained.
A woman
sun.
one cannot
in the houses of Boston.
the shores of the Ganges, a gray-bearded
palms
And
coming
evolu-
the usual priests these, but active hermits; they are
bringing our thought near to the energy which will be revealed
by
scientists in the
very near future.
Gigantic stupas of Buddhism fence.
The same Kurgans
—burial mounds surrounded by a
of [
all
8
]
centuries
and
nations.
The
INDIA Kurgans of Upsala
way
the
Novgorod; the Steppe Kurgans of Scythians,
to
rounded by stones; tions
Sweden; Russian Kurgans of Volhov on
in
all tell
the legends of the
which have been described by the
much
Everywhere,
Hence
of Benares
same solemn cremaArabian
skillful
traveler,
Everywhere, the same purifying conflagrations.
Ibn Fadlan.
wood.
sur-
the
incense, rose water
smoke from
Burning Ghats
the bodies in the
And
not turbid.
is
and fragrant sandalcremation
in Tibet, also,
Regard the gentle child games of the Orient complicated rhythms of the chants and
— and
listen to the
music.
soft
used.
is
There
are
not evident the profanities of the West.
The Maharajah
of
Mysore
is
awakened with
special songs
—
songs of beginning and of end.
Madura
In
in a
crowded
He
of the “sacred images.” this
Thus
knowledge.
alley,
is
man models the forms old man — with him dies
an old
the last
is
dying the
past.
So
approaching the
is
future.
On
the fields are standing, in circles, the figures of white
Whence
ceramic horses.
them, the subtle bodies of
through
the nights.
women
it is
are
said
made
the Valkyries
of
go galloping
erect in flight.
a goat’s leap to the gathering of witches
the flight
to
Upon
Backs, which are doubled during the day
in household tasks, at night are
say
mounts?
are these resplendent
—the
virgins
?
of the
Shall one
No, rather air
—the
is it
leap
toward a wondrous future.
Each day
a
woman’s hand molds
of the house into a special design.
the house
all
is
well,
This
and there [
9
the sand at the entrance
is
]
is
the symbol that within
neither sickness, death nor
ALTAI-HIMALAYA woman
of the
be no happiness in the house then the hand
If there
discord.
becomes
A
stilled.
seeming shield of beauty
placed before the house by the hand of the
And
lent hour.
little girls
woman
•
•
He
dom.
An
inexplicable
custom of India.
lives in this
Vivekananda
benevo-
in schools early are being taught a
variety of designs for the signs of happiness.
beauty
at the
is
called the
•
•
women
•
of India to
work and
also asked the so-called Christians, “If
to free-
you so love
why do you not follow it?” So spoke Ramakrishna who passed through the substance of
the teaching of Jesus the pupil of all
teachings and learned through
“not to deny.”
life
kananda was not merely an industrious “Swami”
How
lion-like rings in his letters. •
“Buddhism ing,” says the
is
•
is
—something
needed now!
•
•
the most scientific and most cooperative teach-
Hindu
truly great savant life
•
he
Vive-
biologist, Bose.
who found
his
It is
way
how
a joy to hear
this
to the mysteries of plant
speaks about the Vedanta, Mahabharata, and about the poetry
Only
of the legends of the Himalaya. the merited place for
And accompanying
all
true
knowledge can find
existing things.
the voice of the savant, simple
and com-
prehensive, the silvery tones of an electric apparatus tinkle out the pulse of the
life
of the plants, reopening pages of the world’s
knowledge, long since Bose’s
mother
in her
her son an education.
dom,”
says:
ditions.
a
“Here
See
good storm
sealed.
how
day sold
The
all
her jewels in order to give
scientist, in
are the children of the rich in luxurious con-
they become puffed and baggy.
to bring
them back
yaseff’s
all
the manifestations of
review of his works.
They need
to healthy normalcy.”
ing the pulse of the plant world, the
somely
demonstrating “His king-
life.
One
[10]
scientist
He
Know-
approaches whole-
values highly Timir-
of Bose’s best books
was
INDIA written on the heights of the Punjab in Mayavati
Bose and Tagore
—noble images of India! powerful Trimurti of Elephanta,
frescoes of Ajanta, the
and the gigantic stupa
And
this
in Sarnath, all speak of other ancient times.
former beauty
silhouette of a
the shrine
Vivekananda departed too soon.
of Vivekananda.
The
— in
also
glimmers in the
woman who carries
fine
her eternal water
and slender
—water which
feeds the hearth.
And the
the well, as in biblical times, remains the central spot of
whole population.
In the very backyard, in a tiny bed of meager flowers, rests
homely image
a small
family of last
Hindu
The him its
of Ganeshi, elephant of happiness.
coolies living in the shanty offers to
Not much happiness has
grains of rice.
this
image brought
them.
to
Against the evidence of such refined values
Ramakrishna, Rabindranath Tagore,
become reconciled the temples.
now
to
which
to that
Here
is
seen in
one cannot
constitutes the contents of
—Lingam
Up
in Elephanta.
in the sanctuaries of this cult are seen the traces of fresh
offerings. vessel of
From
the ancient
wisdom we know
knowledge” and we know the
from times immemorial of
now
are
Sir Jagadis Bose,
still
a phallic cult
as
this
the basis of this worship
that “Linga
scientific
is
explanation
wise distribution of energy. is
forgotten and
it
the
But
has degraded
into superstition.
Another ugly us,
was
spectacle!
led a white
little
In a golden temple of Benares, before goat.
She was led into the sanctuary.
There evidently she was approved of because frantically protesting, she
in a
little
was hurriedly dragged before
us.
while, In a
minute, she was stretched out on the threshold of the temple
[ii]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA and the broad knife cut
went
sacrificial
appearance
is
The
them
such animals
teaching which
as quite different.
undecorative and they cannot guard the
is
As long
beauty of the symbols of knowledge. castes
And
animals.
sanctioned the priests, evidently pictured their
of the goat
do not partake of any
the population evidently brings each day.
Even
difficult to believe
The meat
for food, because prfests
meat except that of offered
was
It
had taken place!
that a sacred action
evidently
her head.
off
as the rule of
not comprehended properly the country cannot develop.
During our founded on
stay
this
we
read of several
difficult
family dramas
ground of an evidently surviving prejudice.
At
the same time, the Vedanta and Advaita clearly establish the
Some of the most cosmogonic parts of Vedas are written by women, and now in India has arrived epoch of the woman. Greetings to the women of India! principle of unity.
In spite of a superabundance of tourists they seem to
America very of
tourists
little.
life
are called
can understand
this.
and never enters into
of the country.
a real
the
know
The whole mass
quickly flows through the sheet-iron channels
tourist companies,
with the
One
the
and
of
active contact
In the north of India, Americans
“nomads” because the agencies give
to these hurrying,
breathless groups a special character, completely outside of the
people’s understanding.
Out
of the
windows
of the car glide by
those original producers of nation.
But
who
Ramakrishna or female, of
all
utilities
cares for these
says: “In
Brahmin
Atman
little villages,
and the makers of the
primary sources?
there
is
no
distinction of
male
or Kshatriya and the like.”
Ramakrishna executed the work sonally, that there
huddled
were no
of the sweeper to show, per-
distinctions.
[12]
INDIA In December,
we want
now
regarded with astonishment: “But
Whereas the only time
feared.
is
We
go into the Himalayas.
to
November to February. Already From May to August only rises.
there
for the
March
in
Himalayas
is
from
the curtain of fog
and for
rarely
Snow
snow!”
is
are
brief periods
can one see the entire glimmering range of snow; and truly such
grandeur
is
nowhere
paralleled.
when you are approaching the Grand Canyon of Ariwhen you approach the foothills of the Himalayas you go
Just as
zona,
through the most uninteresting landscape.
And
dawn
only for a moment, at
you
giants appear before
the
as
And
And
messengers.
first
they are hidden in the curly jungles.
do the white
in Siliguri,
And
again tea plantations.
again barrack-like structures and factories.
And
times does a typical habitation appear and conceal vision
a
as
attacks of tigers tea
itself
There
is
a
again
about the cases of
Belgian mis-
from Kurseong.
becomes
cave-ins
tales
only some-
There are mountains of
and leopards.
with the mark, Orange Pekoe.
sionary It
There are
from another world.
again
cool.
from the
Crowds last
of small coolies are repairing the
monsoon.
In the frosty air one cannot
summer monsoon downpour
even imagine the pressure of the
from which
all
nature becomes moldy.
There are few
birds.
Eagles are seen.
The view
Mountains are densely covered. disappoints you. to find
Is it
of Darjeeling
itself
necessary to seek the Himalayas in order
merely a corner of Switzerland?
The
colorful types of
the bazaar are not apparent at once, and the regular barracks
and bungalows already
We aging.
strike one’s eye.
search for a house.
We
The
first
are assured there are [
13
]
information
no good
is
houses.
not encour-
Some
are
ALTAI-HIMALAYA shown the
to us, lacking outlook
wooden country houses and fences. This We want something, beyond there before the
—
not suitable.
is
image of play
we
its
the Himalayas,
all
are persistent.
And
house
Lama
just
is
go
does not
city orchestra
will find nothing there!”
But
and we find an excellent
ourselves,
calmness and solitude, and the entire chain of
Himalayas before the Dalai
We
where the
“You
conventional tunes.
house.
in
of
streets
little
and grounds, some immersed
And
us.
still
during his long
another surprise: Just here lived flight
from Lhasa.
For
us, this
what 'is needed.
Not on one
we awakened by
occasion only were
and the rhythmic beats around the house.
who, bowing
to the
ground many
times,
the chanting
These are the lamas
marched around our
dwelling.
Somewhere the people are babbling that in devil which appears as a black pig. A haunted But we are not afraid of
told.
village,
devils,
and
house
this
house, as
in the
lives a
we were
neighboring
many black pigs which resemble monkeys who came into the bathroom
Bhutia Basti, there are
Did not our dear and ate the peas and flowers around
boars.
the house play the part of
the devil?
There
is
the tiresome need of having
reason always the same: castes. does not clean the path. caste,
his
he
hand.
sweeper.
He
is
a blacksmith
It
many
servants
reaches absurdity.
Why?
It
The
the
porter
appears that according to
and has no right
broom into and become a
to take a
Otherwise he will become defiled
He
—and
decides the problem in a very original fashion.
begins to brush around the garden with five fingers, creep-
ing along the ground. caste
and hints
The groom
at his descent
him from mysterious
from
is
from the high Kshatriya
a king,
which did not hinder
operations with the horse feed.
in the kitchen religious meetings are arranged.
chairman of the
local
Ary a Samaj, [14]
persistently
Sometimes
And
the cook,
persuades his
Buddhists are not limited by caste and
something.
listeners to
are free to perform
all
and easy
are quick to understand
There are many of
Kham
They work
kinds of work.
tales
to adapt themselves.
about Tibetans, the warriorlike tribe
and about the wild Goloks,
who
They bring one back again even
“dogs.”
are merry,
fast,
themselves wild
call
to the times of Sieg-
They cement their brotherly oaths by mixing and drinking brotherly blood. They never part with their weapons.
fried:
“His Country” begins to unfold, East”
begun.
is
“Banners of the
as the series
In June, after the
first
rains, all the
One
begins to be covered with white spots of mold.
up the place considerably
come
in order that the
tempera
has to heat
mold should dry and
off.
“His Country.” of the
Mahatmas.
In Sikhim,
To
was one of the Ashrams
itself,
Sikhim, Mahatmas came on mountain
Their physical presence communicates a solemn im-
horses.
Of course now the Ashram has been from Sikhim. Of course now the Mahatmas have
portance to these parts. transferred left
But they were here, and therefore the
Sikhim.
of the chain
glimmer
Accompanied by majestic Rinpoche
still
more
pupils,
beautifully.
artists
from Chumbi.
and
a
He
.
.
Shambhala stitious tical
comes the
sculptor,
walks throughout the All
In a long talk, the lama points out that
be attained only through Shambhala. as a
myth.
peaks
.
whole country erecting new images of Maitreya. hastened.
silver
For those
who
legendary invention, this indication
But there are also others,
fortified
is
is
all
being
may
imagine a super-
by more prac-
knowledge.
The
noble Atisha, the Pillar of the teaching, walked from
India to Tibet for the purification of the teaching.
[i5l
The
teacher
—
Altai- Himalaya The
passed by the retreat of Milarepa. conscious
passing procession and
of the
wishing to
forces of the Pillar of the teaching, appeared sitting
The noble Atisha
of a blade of grass. of the hermit,
upon the end
came dov/n from the
equal, but
And when
while under thee,
it
is
the teachers
me
slightly bent,
The noble Atisha our knowledge; but I come from the
has retained
smiled: “Verily, equal
also rose
“Our knowledge
said:
the blade of grass under
is
the
on the end
and
porte-chaise
of the next blade of grass.
why
test
seeing this manifestation
exchanged brotherly greetings, Milarepa is
became
great hermit
tension?”
its
country where the Blessed Tathagata himself lived and taught,
and
this consciousness raises
What magnets
me.”
are laid in India?
Indescribable
round dance near Madras, with
of the children’s
and miniature Krishna, Lei and Kupava.
The
is
its
the
charm
tiny
Gopis
best images are
strewn in the unrealized wealth.
India
how
knows
the all-penetrating
power of the magnet.
about miracles in India, friends of the west will ask?
will say that
we have
not seen “miracles,” but
And
We
we have encoun-
tered every manifestation of psychic energy.
If
one wants to
speak about the manifestations of a “higher miraculous” power then
it
useless to
is
altogether.
talk
But to comprehend the
materially-attained development of psycho-physical energy, then
India gives even
now
the
most remarkable manifestations.
The
celebrated “evil eye” of the east exists, and the people die sub-
missively at the ordained date,
by a
act
it
the
command
any form
still
more
of will
exists in
festations are
if
they are not able to counter-
greatly trained will.
from
The
transmission of
a distance does exist.
highly complicated correlations.
Suggestion in
Some mani-
being performed consciously and a greater part
subconsciously through natural ability and beneficial atmospheric
[16]
INDIA And
conditions.
which
that
unusual for
is
that very thing for the cultured
European,
a civilized
Hindu, or rather
Asiatic, will be
an almost daily material occurrence. •
•
Observe
how
•
a
•
remarkable are the physiological comparisons
Hindus between cosmic manifestations and the human organism. The womb, the navel, the phallus and the heart, traced by the
all
these long since have been included in the fine system of
development of the universal
cell.
Only
the people into a discussion of
this.
Again
fidence
influence
sons
practiced.
is
may come and
necessary that con-
Inquisition people were
But
voking the teraphim.
is
established at the dining table.
which cannot be
During the period of
difficult to entice
it is
in India
And now,
even
in the
burned for
now
means of
this
Malabar Hills dark per-
because of an unfulfilled request will try
“You
to touch you, while they say to you: “Sahib will be sick” or If the
organism
weak, the
command
will live only ten days.”
fatigued or
the will
if
can remedy
this
counteraction
The and
is
at that
moment
fulfilled,
is
only by a counter-suggestion.
is less
in-
is
and one
But often the
powerful or not applied in time.
cases related about the “evil eye” provide a remarkable,
as yet
nologists.
untouched, problem for the psychiatrists and crimi-
The person who
on the appointed day begins of resistance
and
to lose his life
energy and his power
finally the apparatus stops.
do not apply suggestion to poison the
has received this stroke of the will,
in
time are
The
doctors
at loss for a cure,
paralyzed nervous system
still
who
and begin
more.
Incipient
anaemia, a stroke of the heart or spleen, or gall bladder, nervous
spasms and choking are often the
visible effects of the
of the invading will.
to ascertain just
of the attack
on the
It is difficult
particular organs occurs;
imagine that the most feeble organ succumbs to
how the one may
a
17
]
nature rather
nervous attack.
In a small and more crude manner the same practice [
command
is
apparent
ALTAI-HIMALAYA in
Shamanism, but the gradations
are entirely incomparable.
murder or harm by
far
is
its
applications
out that such
more dangerous than
a
can one seek the limits of such sug-
In the East one sometimes hears a significant sentence:
gestions?
“He
and
justly pointed
is
power
will
And where
physical one.
It
of the will
shall not live.”
It
means one has sensed
the spark of the
will-stroke. •
•
Two and
qualities
precision.
•
•
must be conceded
For the East, both
•
to the English: steadfastness
qualities are remarkable.
cision according to the ordained dates of course
necessary because “the worst theft
Do
time.”
It
all
not be late
to
be respected.
Then
traces
in the Statesman,
absolutely
is
some one
else’s
found by the Everest
an English Major related
during one of the expeditions into the region of the Hima-
layas, rise,
you wish
the theft of
began with the unknown
Expedition.
how
if
is
Pre-
he encountered a strange mountain inhabitant.
At sun-
amidst the frosty snows, the Major walked away from the
camp and climbed
neighboring rocks.
the
Glancing
near-by rocks, the Major to his astonishment beheld a
almost naked, standing, leaning on a high bow.
at
tall
the
man
The mountain
inhabitant did not look at the Major, his attention being completely attracted slope.
And
by something unseen behind the curve of the
suddenly the
man
bent, strained himself,
madly dangerous
leaps rushed
When
told his people about the
and
the
said:
Major
and by
from the rocks and disappeared.
“Sahib has seen a ‘snow’ man.
meeting they smiled
They
are
watching the
guarded places.” •
They
tell
in a train
•
•
•
of a recent case in Bengal.
without a
of the train.
•
The
ticket.
bells rang.
At the
The [18]
A
Sadhu was traveling
first station
he was put out
locomotive whistled and did
INDIA not move.
So
membered
the
Sadhu who had been put
he be put back
Then
in his place.
off
passengers re-
and demanded moved.
the train
that
This
is
mass suggestion!
verily
A
The
continued for some time.
it
European lady
living in India entered a dense part of her
garden and became
walks were not
path was somewhat
made
in
revery
a
laid out in that place.
and saw
there again
lost
why
to
as
Three days
the
later she
went
end of the
a freshly traced path, but the
She called the old gardener:
lost.
garden
“Who
has
the path?”
“Mem-Sahib wanted
to
have the garden path but
know how to end it!” Then the woman remembered
that
the
thought about the garden path was not
Sir Jagadis
completion of her
clear.
Bose affirms that the sensitiveness of plants
pletely astonishing.
long before
did not
I
it is
As
is
com-
the plants feel the formation of a cloud
visible to the eye, so the East feels the
thought
at
inception.
its
In the close interrelation between the visible and the invisible,
and
charm
in the epic simplicity of their interplay, lies the
of
India.
The Tibetan ments with
comes out
The
is
He
\aftans.
most astonishing
And
well-fitting.
all this
is
is
takes it
all
measure-
that the \ajtan
not done without care!
quality of gold for the trimming, the color of the lining
—
all
this
very narrow and one
the
making
his eye, but
and the length is
tailor
many
is
is
thought out.
astonished
seams. [
19]
how
The
local
homespun
evenly they can smooth
ALTAI-HIMALAYA
it
If
we
is
astonishing
take the accredited historical data of the
how
from the obvious
last
definitely the folk-consciousness
middle
survivals of the
ages.
Those
century
was freed
who defend
such survivals should examine these historic paths and convince themselves and realize that what
is
dental but under rational guidance
now is not and control. He who occurring
In sudden support of fundamental Buddhism, the
Huxley
says,
“No one
and
is
reincarnation has
entitled to the
sideration
Two
itself,
As
Like the teaching of
in its
roots in the
its
As
a
Buddhism: “As
As
net.
a rhinoceros treading all
Energy of application in
action.
of dissatisfaction giving birth to the eternal striving
which
man
Where, ophy of
a lion un-
study and manifestation of energy in
Energy of armament.
forms.
brings
reality
wind, not to be captured by a
a lotus leaf impervious to water.
Energy
world of
analogies.”
beautiful characterizations of
— solitude!” “The
of
same support commanded by every con-
which evolves from
frightened by noises.
realist
but a superficial thinker rejects the
teaching of reincarnation as nonsense. evolution
fails
cannot understand evolution.
to recognize this rationality,
realists,
acci-
into the cosmic rhythm.”
then,
is
the inactive pessimism?
despair, as
Buddhism
small comprehension. the false romanticism scientists,
So said Asanga.
is
Where
is
the philos-
sometimes called by persons of
How many books have been written under of the nineteenth century? How many
not versed in the languages, have fed their minds
with these vague sour conclusions ? again an image
armed with
all
— Buddha,
And now
there has appeared
with a sword, with leonine daring,
energies, within the universal structure, cosmic
in striving.
[20]
INDIA “Watch
the
movement
of the stars, as one
who
participates in
them, and constantly consider the transmutation of one element into another, because such a process purifies one from the grime of earthly life.”
educated
So
Hindu from
out the Himalayas. •
•
L.
Horn
writes:
tion, the old
So also says an
Marcus Aurelius.
reflects
•
•
•
“With the acceptance of the teachings of evolu-
forms of thought everywhere are crumbling.
New
dogmas and we have before us the spectacle of a general intellectual movement in a direction becoming ever more strange parallel with eastern philosideas arise in the place of outlived
—
ophy.
“The unheard-of speed and current in the
variety of the scientific progress
cannot but
last fifty years
call
forth an equally
unprecedented hastening of thought in the broad non-scientific circles of society.
That the highest and most complete organisms
develop out of the simplest organisms; that upon one physical basis of life stands the
traced a line
which
and not substance
in the
tion
new
it is
evolution
The
is
and
life
—
philosophy.
not
living world; that there cannot be
divides animal
the difference between tion
whole
all this
and vegetable kingdoms; that
non-life
is
already has
a difference in grada-
become commonplace
After the recognition of physical evolu-
difficult to say that the
acknowledgment of psychic
only a question of time.”
observation of the East astonishes and rejoices one.
And
not the obvious power of observation which leads to a dead stereotype; but observation, fine
and
silent in its substance.
One
remembers how the teacher asked the newly arriving pupil describe a room, but the
swimming
only a tiny
room was empty and
fish.
tion
is
him saying
he could have written
revealed the
was
In three hours the pupil wrote three
pages, but the teacher rejected little fish
in a vessel
to
all his life.
that about this
one
In technical imita-
same sharp observation. In the adaptation of [
21
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the meter of a song, in the character of a
you
Somewhere
an all-powerful culture.
see
veloped in their mantles, were compared to
This
ophers of Greece, and
them
better, call
still
Upanishads, Bhagavad-gita, Mahabharata.
when
Greece existed
movements,
the Hindus, en-
Roman
senators.
Rather liken them to the philos-
an inane comparison.
is
in
call,
India was
the creators of the
For neither
And
flourishing.
Rome the
nor
latest
excavations begin to support this indubitable deduction. •
•
Tao Te Ching
In the
•
•
•
drawn
are
the following subdivisions
of the types of scientists: “Scientists of the highest
class,
ing about Tao, seriously bring their knowledge into tists
it.
And
Scien-
life.
on hearing about Tao, sometimes
of the middle grade,
observe
on hear-
sometimes
lose
The
again.
it
scientists of the
lowest class on hearing about Tao, only laugh loudly at
it.”
Lao Tze knew.
a
Hindus regard objects of art with fine understanding. From Hindu, you naturally expect an interesting approach and un-
usual remarks, and so
Hindu
is
a real joy.
Therefore to show paintings to a
it is.
How
not think that they are occupied only in will be astonished by their
silent,
contrary this
do not think
remarks about
is
a
good
that
sign.
tonality,
Sometimes he
will tell
you
tired.
On
means he has entered
mood, and one can expect from him tions.
about tech-
If the observer
he has become
It
You
contemplation.
its
nique, and about the expressiveness of the line.
be long
Do
captivatingly they approach art!
the
into a
especially interesting deduc-
whole parable.
a
will be nothing vulgar or crude in
it.
It
is
And
astonishing
there
how
transformed are the people of the East before the creations of art.
Indeed
it is
more
difficult for a
current of creation and as a rule he impression.
[22]
European is
less
to enter into the
able to synthesize his
— INDIA In the epic designs of India
all
can be coordinated.
the
If in
crowd, your next neighbor should be a skeleton, pale with
Next
you are not frightened.
rosy,
to
you will lean a Sadhu,
colored with blue stripes and with a head-dress are not surprised.
A
cheat you.
You
The
the crowd
—you
dung.
You
fearful
are smiling.
to India?
They do not
There
And you
in processions.
But do they
their consent.
like
a procession of
is
You
curved fangs.
whose sake you have come
are those for
in the bazaars
sit
cow
of
chariot of Jagernath crushes
Nagis of Rajputana with blades
And where
made
Fakir with toothless cobras will
are not astonished.
are calm.
and they do not walk
will not enter their dwellings without really exist
Are not
?
leisurely authors
writing about them only for the sake of being unique? yes,
they
And in human
exist,
this
and there
exists their
sharpening of
human
And no
substance.
lep-
knowledge and
qualities
is
Yes,
their skill.
being exalted
leprosy will turn you
all
away from
India.
All that takes place at the metapsychical institute in Paris
—the
experiments of Ndtzing and Richet in ectoplasm; the experi-
ments of Baraduque
in the
photography of physical emanations,
the works of Kotik in the exteriorization of sensitiveness and the
attempts of Beckhterev in thought-transmission at a distance all this is
familiar to India.
Only, not
as unbelievable novelties,
They speak
but as laws long since known.
little
on
these themes,
because of the dearth of scientifically enlightened fellow-conversationalists.
to
The
open the doors
and not
method of Hinduism and Buddhism is him who knocks, but not to call any one
ancient
to coerce
must be powerful.
to
any one.
But the quality of the knock
also
In the practical teaching of Buddhism, inde-
pendence of consciousness
is
sharply
emphasized, and
as
its
consequence, an unconquerable forbearing and all-conquering patience.
The
greatest patience will
[23]
win a
victory.
So
let
the
!
ALTAI-HIMALAYA ignorant deniers immerse themselves in the true East to learn and to absorb the
power of containment. •
•
•
•
•
Two characteristic episodes are related about When he was in India, he was asked whether psychic powers.
The Tashi Lama
and
All search was in vain.
denly disappeared.
considerable period of time, the officers saw
officers,
he sud-
Finally,
after
him calmly
me
years ago told
Indian
was shown
to
him once
saw
that he himself
upon the blank
cities
me
This incident reminds
search, the guards.
a
sitting
in fruitless
of Gorki,
who
vivid images of
metallic leaves of an album,
which
With
all his
in vivid
colors
by a Hindu.
in Caucasia
Gorki absolutely affirms that he saw
realism,
which the Hindu pointed out
that
In a short
same garden and around him were running,
in the
Lama.
he possessed any
silently smiled.
time, though closely surrounded by guards
many
the Tashi
to
him.
Greetings to Alexei
Maximovitch •
Attraction by thought to
is
e
•
spoke and thought
The
astonishing.
have an old Tibetan Buddha, but
We
•
•
among
this
ourselves
desire
was expressed
already difficult now.
is
how
to get
In a few
it.
days came a lama and brought an excellent Buddha: “The lady
wanted
from
to
my
have a Buddha and
house
altar.
I
I
cannot
am
sell
told to give the
the sacred image
Buddha
—accept
it
as a gift.”
“But
how
did you
know
“The White Tara came
of our desire to have a
dream and
in a
told
Buddha ?”
me
to bring
it
to you.”
And
so
it
happens. •
Recently
we
•
•
•
read in the Statesman that the lowest castes of
India begin willingly to accept Buddhism. in a talk with
Gandhi, spoke against
[24]
Rabindranath Tagore,
castes.
Out
of the
mouth
INDIA Brahmin
of a
avowal
this
is
Many
significant.
and
significant
beautiful signs.
must be given
Special attention
many most
valuable indications:
“When
and Tishya and the planet Jupiter Krita
(Satya)
to the Puranas
—therein
are
and the moon,
the sun
one mansion, then the
are in
So does the Vishnu Purana
age will begin.”
point out the age of Maitreya.
Lamas
coming
are constantly
They spread
to us.
on the lawn; and chantingly pointing with a relate a
whole
The
epic.
A
stick,
The
visual reactions
nun comes.
She
they
merge
vivid colors of the paintings
with the natural colors of nature. valued since long ago.
little
paintings
have been
at the threshold
sits
and throwing back her handsome head she chants her prayers.
We
can only distinguish “Tra shi sho!”
tion of language
is
very
great
and the number of
the
still
difference
dialects of the small tribes
The Kung
house of the Dalai Lama.
remarkable
is
important old
the coincidence of
man
(this
is
a
is
very
is
also great.
to salute the
title like
a
duke;
Conung, Kung, King)
is
an
with a wife and daughter, round of face
Ukrainian; with numerous servants; on big black mules
shod with kets.
But
from Lhasa comes Kung Kusho of Doring
Finally
like a
All these mountain dialects
difficult.
somewhat resemble Tibetan.
Altogether the ques-
On
silver are
high saddles and many-colored horse blan-
their foreheads
image of Chintamani. Chinese
Kung was
1912 the
This led to a revolt in Tibet. our Buddhist objects.
and
rejoices at
are
making Tibetan
Buddhism.
In
They almost wounded him.
soldiers.
secretary.
they wear vivid red caps with the
He
is
dishes.
We
They
The Kung
We
is
man.
by
killed his
astonished
are breakfasting.
speak of the
a very ceremonious old
[25]
attacked
movement
We of
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Interesting are the tales about the attacks of the cavalry of
Kham
Wild
and Golok.
riders
do not need
with teeth and
as in ancient narratives, take part in the battle
During
hoof.
is
of the horses.
If all
means
avalanche
this
of attack are exhausted the riders
from the ground and
There
laughter.
to the
Sometimes they disappear under the stomachs
borne onward.
take stones
up
battle, the riders take off their \halats
Helmeted, with swords, lances and guns,
waist.
Their horses,
reins.
is
with screams resembling
fight
one sign which
once quiets
at
this avalanche.
Of course every tribe has its particularities in battle and by not knowing them one can weaken the best force. Tibetan women and
in songs
in life
sometimes are not behindhand in manifesta-
They throw hot water on
tions of courage.
meet the temporary conquerors with •
Near is
Ghum
•
•
derision.
•
•
stands a high rock.
lying a significant prophecy.
significant objects.
It is
wrong
enemy; they
the
It is said
that
on
its
peak
In each stupa are enclosed
to think that the bookshelves dis-
played in temples to some travelers comprise the entire book treasures of the monastery.
Besides
these
volumes of
official
teachings everywhere in the secret recesses of the abbot there
One
are manuscripts of unusual interest.
thing
is
dangerous.
Often these hidden places are harmed by dampness, or mice, or are simply forgotten during
lama
will
tell
some hasty evacuation.
down
you: “I have written
They
do not carry them with me.
Then some unexpected
event happens
the prophecies but
are lying ;
the
Often a I
under a stone.”
lama hastens
to put his
sack on his back and depart; and the invaluable manuscripts are lost.
Some trousers”
bring
idiomatic
means
difficulties
commands
to get
are
characteristic:
ready for a march.
into negotiations.
in very high terms about “the hair
[26]
“To put on
Idiomatic terms often
Once an ambassador spoke of Brahma.” Nobody under-
From
a painting by Nicholas
Roerich
TIBETAN LAMA
Roerich
Museum, N. V
INDIA him and
stood
nothing
the negotiations
mind than
else in
had
However, he had
to stop.
the river Brahmaputra.
Often the
languages taught in universities do not help in the local places.
A
Chinese book, “Wei Tsang T’u-Shih,” thus describes the
Potala:
The
“The mountain
luster of the
palaces are glowing in a purple sheen.
mountain peaks
the beauty and perfection of
all
equal unto emerald.
is
make
objects
Verily
incom-
this place
parable.”
We
are reading of the builder of the Potala, the fifth Dalai
Lama, named “Ruler fearlessness.”
Lama
Dalai
It
is
of conjurations, eloquent, holy ocean of
who on becoming His Worthiness
he,
in 1642, built Potala, the red palace,
dMarpo, on the red mountain Marpo
ri.
He
Pho Brang
also
built the
remarkable monasteries Mo-ru, Labrang Garmakhiya, and others.
and the
He
also erected
saints of
Buddhism.
Tibet the second time. this
on the rock the
During
Gruber, the
colossal relief of
his rule
the
many
Buddha
Mongols entered
Jesuit, dislikes
much
very
strong leader, although he finds that he was cautious in his
methods, assiduous and devoted to
Unusual
is
the end of this Dalai
version the Dalai
hidden for
a
Lama
few years
political matters to
the Dalai
Lama is
now
Lama.
According
to
one
in order to give opportunity for various
be adjusted.
According
abandoned
voluntarily
to another version
his rule
same seclusion
and hid himself
in the Himalayas.
paralleled by the following ancient legend: “Every
century the Arhats until
and knowledge.
died in the eighties and his death was
for several years in the very
History
art
make an
effort to enlighten the
not one of these efforts has been successful.
followed failure.
It is
said that until the
world.
But
Failure has
day when a lama will
be born in a western body and appear as a spiritual conqueror for the destruction of the century-old ignorance, until then there will be
little
success in dissolving the snares of the West.”
[27]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The Chinese emperors
lived
according to the astronomical
For each season of the year there was a
seasons of the year.
special colored garment.
Each period of the year used to be
spent in a special part of the palace.
The method
of Buddhist teaching reminds one of the
method
of the Kabala, that of not imposing, but attracting, and pointing
out the best way.
They speak about
a remarkable monastery,
Mo-ru, and about the special learning of the lamas of that monas-
For the three summer months the lamas go away
tery.
to the
west for meditation.
During the “hearings” the lamas often cover This
cloth.
recalls “biblical”
ceremony.
pletely,
a “soft voice,” always
from head
times,
how
himself up.” vatsky.
is
altogether other
Contemporaries were
Germain sometimes “wrapped
Let us remember also the
Lamas
which
ture
From
this purpose.
strangely Saint
Appolonius,
wrapped himself com-
the very same details reach us.
astonished
how
long scarf of woolen texture.
to foot, in a
This scarf was kept only for
with
the statement
It recalls
of Damis, the pupil of Appolonius of Tyana, of
when he heard
their heads
warm
shawl of Bla-
carefully observe a certain condition of tempera-
favorable to the induction of different manifes-
tations.
Lady Lytton came splendid
traditions
Bulwer-Lytton.
to see the pictures.
remain from
Then came Colonel
whole Everest Expedition. to find out
ing,
their
By
In the Lytton family celebrated
Bailey.
grandfather
Then came
the way, they persistently
whether we did not ascend Everest.
the
wanted
In the paint-
“Burning of Darkness,” * they recognized the exact image of
the glacier near Everest, and they did not understand * “Burning of Darkness”
(“His Country”
York.
[28]
Series),
Roerich
how
this
Museum, New
— INDIA characteristic view, seen only
by them, could have come into the
picture.
A
page of the true East: “Again they will come with the ques-
tion,
‘How
One
one deal with obstacles?’
shall
dered by the family; one by
A
poverty; one by the attacks of the enemies. to
show
When cisely
Every obstacle must be the birth of
difficulties
from
himself
matter in what
The
possibilities.
Success
lies in
we
long do
the enlarging of the
come near
impossible to
It is
Friends, so long as
as the birth of possibility, so
not understand the teaching.
fear.
to a
coward would garb
attire a
find the page about fear.
do not seem
consciousness.
rider likes
appear in the face of obstacles, they result pre-
No
fear.
we must
obstacles
good
on untrained horses and prefers obstacles
his skill
smooth path.
hin-
is
occupation; one by
distasteful
a
person
in the presence of
ray of courage shall lead above the manifestations of
obstacles, because
now, when the world knows where
seed of blood
growing.
is
can go courageously.
If
path
If the
means we can open the soul. that somewhere a new enemy
is
unknown
one has
If
it
—the
go
strewn by bones one
is
peoples speak in
to
ready.
languages
to hasten
Be
—
it
means
blessed, obstacles,
through you we grow.” India,
I
know
thy sorrows, but
I
shall
same joyous tremor
as the first flower
From
we
thy Brahmins
the Vedic wisdom.
We
ment
who
on the spring meadow.
who understood Rajah who strove for the
shall select the
We
shall
notice Vaishya
have exalted their craft and labor for the
of the world.
A
dagger of faith over bonfire over a
widow.
a
boiling kettle
white goat.
is
The phantom Menacing
blown by the whirlwind. And deadly burning But we
know
The
flame of a
Complicated
are thy vestures
are thy inclement
thy fragrant essences.
[29]
and
uplift-
the forge of India.
Conjurations and sorcery.
are the folds of thy garments, India.
rocks, India.
thee with the
shall select the greatest
finding of the path of truth.
Shudra
remember
India,
we
ALTAI-HIMALAYA know
the depths
great
Aum, which
and
leads to the Inexpressible
thy great Guiding Spirit.
Thy
India,
sacred scriptures in which
the future. as the
And we
most precious
We know the Heights. We know
finesse of thy thoughts.
shall
first
is
we know
outlined the past, the present,
remember
flower
[
thy ancient wisdom!
thee with the same tremor
on the spring meadow.
30
]
Part
II
SIKHIM (1924)
Evokingly and sharply the arrows whistle
across the gulley,
The Sikhimese remember their One says: “The arrow is better than
from out the bamboo grove. favorite ancient pastimes. a bullet.
It
sings as
it
strikes
while the bullet screeches as
it flies
outward.”
In the morning a red leaf was brought to us: “In the evening
Senge will fires it
began to
came
After sunset upon the zigzag of the path, the
arrive.”
out and the trumpets to resound.
flash
on
rolling
—motley, noisy,
with handmade horses,
a dragon,
guns and many-colored
crowd receding explosions
of
And
dances!
the banners
ards of Jenghiz
If
some
to
understand
whom
upon
whom,
just
?
.
These
the staffs
Polovetsky
are
— these
are the stand-
Touching
will be understood.
Knowledge
which image;
a \hati\;
By
Or
whom,
and
is
needed in order
if so,
to
whom,
To
a bearskin;
a fur coat; to
whom,
a
whether one with designs
the hieroglyphs of these objects one can read
entire relationship with
great scientist
.
the finesse of intention in these gifts:
all
a leopard skin; to
or a white one.
.
Khan!
an image, and
\halat; to
their
spark.
of the gifts of the lamas.
whom,
drumming; with with paper yaks. With pop-
trumpeting,
enamel of the night amid the
you understand, then you
are
to
flaming
finally
the dance proceeded, the motley
fires
into the violet
the
And
you.
Are you recognized
as
a
are you left within the limits of conventional
[3i]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Or
politeness?
are
you
understood “ceremony”
left is
without attention?
Often the non-
simply a short subtle code of gesture
and conduct.
Two
world of the ravines
One
worlds find expression in the Himalayas. soil
—
full of the
and grotesque
smoke of
melts the
enchantment of these
up
hills rear
Upon
gleam banners, suburgans or
stupas.
the
Deep which
parts.
to the cloud-line, into
and monasteries.
villages
is
the heights
The ascending mountain
Eagles vie in their flight with the
passes curve with sharp turns.
colorful kites flown by the villagers.
In the bamboo-stalks and
amid the fern the sleek body of a tiger or a leopard adds a glimmer of rich supplementary color. On the branches skulk dwarfed bears; and a horde of bearded monkeys often
the
escorts the solitary pilgrim.
An
earthly world
this,
full
of diversities!
stands beside a blooming rhododendron. all this
is
stately
larch
entangled.
And
earthly wealth shades into the blue mist of the rolling
A
distances.
Above to
All
A
chain of clouds crowns the lowering mist.
this synthetic picture,
new
behold
it is
strange, unexpectedly startling,
ramparts mounting the clouds.
lous waves, above the twilight,
Above
the nebu-
glimmer the sparkling snows.
Erect, infinitely beauteous, stand these dazzling, impassable peaks.
Two
distinct worlds, intersected
Besides
Mount
surpass in height
we
survey
all
by a mist!
Everest, fifteen peaks of the
Mont
Blanc.
If
Himalayan chain
from the great
the approaches to the
snowy border and
white domes of the peaks, nowhere, to one’s recollection, such an open barricade of elevations. pect one
obtains
From
this
all is
the
there
superb pros-
an especially enthralling impression of the
grandeur of the Himalayas
To
Rangith
river
—“Dwelling
of snows.”
the side of the ascent, the summits
[S^]
merge
into
one im-
SIKHIM placable wall It
is
—the jagged, unending ridge of the
difficult to discern
snowy summits of and Lhasa
—the
The upper
that just at that point are hidden the
Jelep-la
and Nathu-la on the way
portion of the Buddhist banners bear the cross-
teachings intertwined
all
to Shigatse
fog seems especially often to envelop this road.
shaped spear, disk, crescent and of
Sacred Lizard.
Are not the emblems
lotus-petals.
upon one
In these re-
flagstaff?
minders of the symbols of the elements of Nature every one will find an image near to him.
Upon
the ikons and ornaments of Tibet often
ing with precious stones, the image of the fish
—the
is
found, glow-
—that happy sign
same found upon the walls of the Roman catacombs.
one conception
is
of the “Elements
united the Buddha’s
“Wheel
of
life,”
In
the Circle
forming the mystery” of the Christian church
The many-eyed seraphim and Luminous Mother of the World penetrate
and the “Wheel of Ezekiel.” multiple eyes of the
equally into the recesses of the soul.
In the cults of Zoroaster there a flame.
Hebrew
The same flaming
chalice
silver shekels of the
remoter antiquity.
In the
represented the chalice with
is
is
engraved upon the ancient
time of Solomon and of an even
Hindu
excavations of the periods from
Chandragupta Maurya, we observe the same powerfully
stylized
Sergius of Radonega, laboring over the enlightenment
image.
of Russia, administered
from the flaming
chalice.
Upon Tibetan
images, the Bodhisattvas are holding the chalice blossoming with
tongues of flame. of
Aflame, too, was the
life.
verily
remember the Druid chalice Holy Grail. Not in imagination;
also
by deeds are being interwoven the great teachings of
ages, the It
One may
language of pure
all
fire!
has long since been said, “Faith without deeds
Buddha pronounced three paths: the shorter way of faith, and the [
33
the long shortest ]
way
is
dead.”
of knowledge,
way— through
action.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA David and Solomon Vedanta
extols the manifestation of works.
dation of
all
covenants, action
of the
of the details of the arrangement of the temple altars?
and hermits, who buried themselves
of the ascetics
What
stone coffins?
jurations; the wreaths
bosom
of the
and incense ?
And
and the
of the image-lamps
and candles of
the
And
heartfelt prayer, flung
in
its
And
kin
his closest
—are
Mohammed
castles are
they not like
Verily, not by accident have Buddhist
too
significance
telling of the visitation of the
of
upon
wrought gem-bedecked vestments ?
legends been carved upon the frescoes of the
Profound
of con-
musk
Buddha by
the stones of Stephen?
fires
in their
the birch of Trinity, the
Ganges?
the stones flung at
Pisa.
the
is
respond to our conception of the Christmas Tree?
desires, not
the
This
placed foremost.
Hindu Trimurti alien to the Trinity? Buddhist Tree of Wishes, hung with the objects of all
Are the symbols
What What
Verily, in the foun-
of the Spirit.
creative fire
Does the
is
The
the strivings of labor.
also glorify
is
mother of
Campo
the
Moslem legend
Jesus to the
before the birth of the Prophet.
towering, in the very same
Santo in
flight, as
mother
And Ladakian the eagles’ nests
of Faienza or Montefalcone.
In Jeddah, this gateway to Mecca, the cially venerate is
the
and guard the
so-called
same Archangel Gabriel
—he
Mogul queens bore
the revered
From
Mary, Mother of the World.
Tomb
of the
—who upon Mount Hira bade preaching—the same one! ments
Mohammedans
And
of Eve.
Old and
espe-
New
Testa-
Mohammed commence
title
of Miriam.
it
his
Miriam,
times immemorial have the
most ancient forgotten temples extolled the anticipation of the
new
epochs. [
34
]
SIKHIM In the ancient
Temple
of the
city,
Kish, has recently been discovered the
Mother of the World.
Sarnath and Gaya, the scenes of Buddha’s personal achieve-
now
ments, are fallen in ruins, too, Jerusalem. is
So
“Because Jesus himself witnessed that the prophet
without honor in his
own •
According
only the goal of pilgrims.
•
•
•
•
Buddha’s
to the legend,
in the presence of the
country.”
High Ones. The
“the holiest stupa” but
location
its
of Buddha’s achievements
was performed
initiation
is
of initiation
site
not disclosed.
on the Ganges
are
known,
the scenes of the birth and death of the teacher
is
called
The
sites
as well as
— in Nepal.
Ac-
cording to some indications the initiation was performed farther north
—beyond the Himalayas, because Buddha came down from
the north for the performance of his works. Jesus until his thirtieth year
Whither
lies
Who
?
Korya-Morya ?
knows
Shall
But where was
those haloed retreats
they
be
revealed
?
?
The
legendary mountain Meru, according to the Mahabharata, and
Shambhala
the equally legendary height
both lay in the north and served
And
as the
in
Buddhist teaching,
summit
for initiations.
not everywhere until the appointed date, can the details of
knowledge be
these places of high
Wise
intercourses
—one
told.
clearer
sees
from above.
Instead of
petty quarrels of denunciation, history recalls to us truly inter-
national
golian
ties.
pointed out as a historical fact that a
It is
Bogdo-Khan was saved from
of Nicholas.”
This
whose knowledge
is
is
illness
Mon-
by the “appearance
averred by the Mongolian Khutukhtus,
considered very high.
only do not overlook them.
All
is
full of signs,
Observe keenly and joyously, and
flexibly. [
35
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Upon
woman we
the wrist of a Tibetan
observed a strange
blue sign, which on closer inspection showed the appearance of a
When she woman revealed
tattooed blue cross of equal ends.
explanation of this sign, the
was asked the that a Tibetan
physician had applied the sign during “a very dangerous cough”
— evidently
pneumonia.
Tibetan
physicians
generally
inject
This sign was made by the per-
medicines under such signs.
sonal physician of the Dalai-Lama during his three years’ stay in Darjeeling.
Swastika
is
a symbol of the conception of fire
and
life.
According
to the
Lama
prophecy of
Tsa-rinpoche, the present
attempt to conquer Everest will end only in
whether the old lama
is
right.* •
The lama seemed
•
•
efforts in the physical
body?
at
any
Is
it
risk.
•
this very
window f
is
an
•
expend such
their astral bodies, for
obstacle. •
•
•
the high priest sent prayers to Tibet
which was troubled by the Chinese. wall of the Himalaya, he kept •
“Why
not simpler to be there in
For with ease do lamas project
which, of course, no height
From
•
•
astonished at the desire of foreigners to
ascend the summit of Everest,
spirit?”
Let us see
losses.
years, facing the
vigil. •
•
For three
•
•
In the time of the old Jesuit mission, about 300 years ago, in
Lhasa, there was a Christian chapel.
Now
Great lamas visited
no one even remembers the approximate
The lama
here bewails the visiting hunters
site
of
—they
it.
came and
* The Lama proved to be right. t The author lived in the so-called Talai-Pho-Brang where the Dalai stayed about three years during his flight from Tibet. [
36
]
it.
Lama
SIKHIM killed
many
forest,
few
And now when
stags!
animals to approach him his
We
complaint.
who was
a
the East,
all
him
And
him.
reminded of the
are
into the
he loves the
culture rings in
of old
tale
shepherd beyond the Ural, and
Avramy,
when he prayed
to
the sheep in silence turned also toward the sunrise.
him who was
Chinese
was the custom
it
to confine in the
defeated during a scientific argument.
An
learn more!
“A
to
strolls
Not savagery but deep
!
In Buddhist monasteries library
come
are the stags that
lama
the
Let
excellent custom!
Amban
(governor), an evil and dissolute man, was
desirous of visiting a venerated holy abbot of the local monastery in Tibet.
when he
By
persistence
and force he demanded an audience, but
entered the reception
throne, instead of the holy in fright he rushed
making fine
his
way by
reminder
room
of the abbot, he
man, the image
force,
of a hideous pig,
Thus
from the presence.
saw on the
the dissolute
man,
found an image worthy of him!
As
to all despots:
ye measure so shall
it
and
A
be meas-
ured unto you.” •
A
legend of Central Asia
ground dwellers blessed
all
ing in their course.
t
•
tells
—the Agharti.
kingdom,
mysterious
*
of the mysterious nation, under-
Approaching the gates into
living beings
Recall,
•
become
silent,
this
reverently paus-
now, the Russian legend about the
“Tchud” which went underground
To
persecution of the evil forces.
to
escape the
this secreted place also leads
the sacred legend of the subterranean Kitege.
Everything comes
from the North.
The whole world troves, temples
tells its tales
of
merging under water!
underground
know [
of the treasures
37
]
treasure
The Russian and Norman
peasant relates about this with equal surety. inhabitant of the desert
cities,
So, too, does the
which sometimes
ALTAI-HI MALAYA glimmer from under the sand waves and then time
—recede
again under the earth.
Around one
beacon-fire are gathering those
We
the predestined dates.
knowledge vent,
—knowledge
when
—until the ordained
truth
is
who remember
do not speak of superstitions but of
revealed in beautiful symbols.
so manifold
In
?
Why
La Manche even now
is
in-
seen
the city which has been “submerged” under water.
Many
sources
tell
of the subterranean dwellings in the district
A
and Koko-Nor.
of Lhasa
following
legend:
Genden were
built
When
lama from Mongolia foundations
the
recalls
monastery
the
of
the
during the time of the Teacher Tsong-kha-pa,
in the fourteenth century,
it
was noticed
that through the gaps
smoke of incense. A passage was broken through and there was found a cave in which, motionless, was seated an old man. Tsong-kha-pa aroused him from his ecstasy and the old man asked for a cup of milk. Then he asked what teaching now existed upon earth. After which he of the rocks there arose the
disappeared.
It
is
also pointed out that the Potala, the palace
of the Dalai-Lama, has hidden recesses of the greatest antiquity.
By
the facial expressions of the high lamas one will not discover
One must seek through other paths. much lies underground — how much more
anything. If so
veil of silence.
sponse.
nothing
An
It
—has only
We
insist,
after the first cautious re-
Another who
heard rumors. just
And why
not betray.
naive to
under the
authoritative astrologer assures us that he
ways of antiquity things.
is
lies
now
insists
is
is
versed in the
he has not even heard of such
should they answer otherwise?
Most heinous
knows
treason
They must
—and there are many
discern the true devotion and behind
it
traitors.
the structure of the
future. »
It is said
Temple
that
•
•
•
•
Solomon manifested such devotion toward the
that even
when
breathing his [
38
]
last,
lest
he interrupt
SIKHIM or
harm
until
the
work
of construction, he remained upright in prayer
an ant bored through
The example
his staff.
of perse-
verance and devotion! •
•
•
•
•
Unexplained have remained the strivings of Solomon toward the
One
Beginning, sheltering
forms of knowledge.
all
doned Fatehpur-Sikri (near Agra)
is
full
Aban-
of the signs of this unity
which was understood by Akbar the Great who preached the spirit of
One Temple.
In the center of the palace-court
is
still
standing the temple of united religion. Superficial writers wonder
why
the walls of this mysterious structure bear the remains of
such varied signs
—the traces of Buddhism
and Christian fragments.
mingled with Hindu
This united torch was already mani-
fested in life!
“Wise
Him
in heart
and mighty
and hath had peace,
treadeth
upon the waves
in strength;
Who
who
hath resisted
spreadeth out the heavens and
of the sea
—Who maketh
Arcturus and
Orion and the Pleiades and the inner part of the south
—Who
doeth things great and incomprehensible and wonderful of which there
is
no number”
—exclaims
not the mysterious signs of
Watan and Senzar
lamas pointing toward
We
the Festival of Unity
it?
is
And
Job about the One.
received by great
asked the Lama, “Is
approaching?”
He
are
it
true that
looked closely
at us,
then answered, “Such are the prophecies.”
In 1924, according to Tibetan calculations, the for here a century
is
new
era began,
not calculated as a hundred years but as
sixty.
You
listen to the
reading of the Bhagavad-Gita
;
you hear the
exclamation of the Buddhist servers of the temples. to the singing of the choir.
You
listen
Does there not appear before you [
39
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the
One Image — the One common Will toward
of consciousness, embracing and conquering,
joy, to the unity
to the exalting
beginning?
Aum?
and enlightening
Should we not
happiness and
reflect
Why
why
Covenants
all
tell
the manifestation of
is
of the
same
active
phenomena always
accompanied not only by the same unexplainable words, but always by a vivid action of spirit?
And
volted.” invisible
The In
writings say,
“He
without the wondrous “uprising,” without
action, nothing
became
lightened;
The
filled
is
He
decisive.
realized
re-
this
and became en-
with invincible courage!
formulae themselves often astonish by their universality.
them
summons
are united the
of the mysteries with the prayers
of the most unexpected cults separated by whole epochs and
whole continents. is
the
same
The language
“Hallelujah, is
•
Hallelujah,
•
•
•
Hallelujah,”
a conjuration of ancient rites.
Babylonians, through the Israelites
known by
Mother of the World
for all cradles. •
Halelu”
of the
it
or
“Halelu,
From
Halelu,
the Chaldeans,
reached our
era.
It is also
several tribes of India.
In this region the simple guide will suddenly turn around on his path
and proclaim: “But men must
session
one and
is
will unite
among discern
all
are equal
men?” So
thinks and ponders the simple, poor
all
standing, he walked.
In the hope of the guide you
powerful unity and righteous under-
One
valued Buddha in the same
Only
man,
powerful proclamation of Vivekananda; without
depreciation, only in
of us.
But will That soon come, Which
!
the blue hills of Sikhim. the
finally realize that pos-
wishes that our priests of the West
way
in such benevolent
as the
understanding
of the future structure, [
enlightened lamas speak
40
]
lies
the guarantee
SIKHIM All creators of Unity must be recognized. Principally
With
let
us have
laboratory?
of ignorant denials.
one succeeds in getting plants which nurture
difficulty
the musk-deer.
less
how
But
Below the
bring
to
mountain pine
this
to the
altitude of 6,000 feet, the plants perish.
Most often from Bhutan the ragged, deep blue furling waves of fog crawl upward. Not only the snowy ridges but also the steps to the is
mountain paths
difficult to believe there
is
are
wrapped
in the dense mist.
a hidden glimmer.
Shall
begin denying the very existence of the Himalayas?
means they
are invisible, that
thing
is
invisible to us
it
does not
If
not they
Whenever some-
are non-existent!
we presume
we
It
exist.
Such
is
the
decision of ignorance.
Intricate are the
many
mountain paths with
are the earth-covered pits
are the intercrossing currents ness
under the green-blue
beneath the flowers. is
And
their
under the
many
How
turns.
Many
horse’s hoofs!
and streams, with the torpid dampTruly
foliage.
many
the language of the
are the serpents
murmuring
foliage
incomprehensible. Early are the stars aglow here.
Toward
the East, undiminished,
flames the triple-constellation of Orion, this astonishing constellation
which
of the
old
finds
its
way through
observatories,
such as
teachings.
undoubtedly
The
In the archives
much remarkable
data
which surround some conthe Bear and Orion amaze you by their wide-
could be found about stellations
all
it.
cults
spread popularity.
The wisdom of the Shamans designates them for worship. Nor did Job accidentally point to them alone as the supreme The glimmer spreads everywhere. In the act of achievement. latest number of the Journal of the London Asiatic Society is [41
]
ALT AI-HI MALAYA this
“The Emperor Baber near the beginmemoirs says: ‘On the outskirts of Barakoh is a
very important item:
ning of his
mosque called the Jawza Madjid. The is House of Orion. Jawza is a name ancient cult was the
now most likely effaced Thus we see how unceasingly Again are the astronomic
The
constellation of
The
Magi.”
compared
huge
bulletins telling of
flashed
up
observatories in Jaipur
The
to the
mountain on
body four
it
their backs.
The he
is
It
is
for the
safely?
and metal rings and
How
is
it
possible
high with such an immeasurable
feet
Much
laughter
further one goes toward Tibet the the
by a pleasantry.
in Delhi over-
Yet instead of groans you hear laughter from
stones!
And
its
Their heads are bent so low that one cannot
under the bent back.
people.
and
in
small Lepchas, coolies of Sikhim, bear
Will they be able to bear
burden of
in the East
their fantastic conviction.
structure.
to overload a
Only
was
weight
and astro-chemistry
distinguish their faces, because of the shawl chains.
this constellation.
Orion contains the signs of the “Three
The
air is pure.
unknown
from
Verily, the Star of the East!
import.
stones
desert.
the inexplicable
to the significance of Atlas, supporting the
whelm one with The
identified?
does Orion attract the eye of men.
feel the vital sense of astrology
scientific
of Orion.’ ”
significance of Orion, too, in ancient teaching
of the world.
do you
word With what
of the
by the sands of the great
which have suddenly
rays,
meaning
mosque pointed out by Baber
It is
pink
real
more
The
air
heard in Sikhim.
more communicative
The
are the
often one hears singing accompanied is
chief of the caravan
mounted firmly on
is
clearer here.
is
called Sardar.
the white
In his purple kaftan,
mountain pony.
Many
are
the white horses here.
The
caves of Kinchenjunga, [
where were guarded the 42
]
treasures,
— SIKHIM are
In one of the caves
far off.
still
Sambhava
(teacher of Tibet) and behind
And
never yet opened by man.
Padma
the statue of
is
it is
seen a stone door
yet they say:
“Nothing remains
hidden!” •
The human curled
But
—no
itself
is
it
•
•
consciousness often
Thus
also
known how
“like a dog’s
straighten
was
it
•
is
how you
matter
in curling back.”
sists
•
it
tail.
out,
it
If
has
it
still
per-
told by the ancient Chinese.
completely the consciousness has
been transformed by a mere touch.
“Why
do you not
pearls or setting
tell
us
you know,
all
By
landmarks?”
will pass the entire
way.
You
as if
you were strewing
these signposts
alone
—by
human
you yourself Accord-
feet.
ing to your growth shall you yourself gather pearls.
By your
own hands
will
shall
By your own hands
you match them.
develop dynamic power.
“You
will return”
you
and project your
will.
Otherwise matter will again not flow out in the “song of ceaseless
labor.”
from
In this way, superficial curiosity will be divided
They
true striving.
tell
of
where any one coming from the
to
found an
at
once be convinced of phenomena.
institute
offer these strange to
wash
their
who
one “modern sage”
comers from the
hands for the
tests.
But
if
through the
this “sage” forgot to
street at least the
wherewithal
There are ways which we
shell of the objects of every
be enabled to behold the summits of the cosmos
wondrous and undiminishing outlook the unsheathed eye.
The medical
shall the
43
will.
day you will
—what
a
new
world have for
lore of the ancients acclaimed
laughter as useful for the purification of the glands. [
could
street
must approach only with pure hands and with our own
And
offered
]
How
useful
ALTAI-HIMALAYA then must a smile be for the brain!
Thus
shall the
con juries of fear be transformed into the valiant
trembling
call of joy.
#
The motley powerful of the
feet of the
White Guards.
threatening the violators.
With
.
horrible
The
misty aureoles of lights are
.
cold respect or else with a clerical sense of the scientific,
do we examine the Tibetan and Nepal banner-paintings British
Museum,
the
But
in Chicago.
Musee Guimet
meaning
The
to
you
of vital
is
evil entities
with
symbols are transformed from ornaments into a
The images
living epos.
and they speak
this site,
The good and
for the local world.
their endless
Museum do we ap-
Every gesture of Buddha’s hand
quite differently.
in the
in Paris, or the Field
in a completely different attitude
proach the same paintings on
tones.
are
grins,
In explosive gasps flare up the gold
tongues of the primeval flame. .
the
Red and green “guardians
many-armed and with
entrances,”
glowing.
down by
figures of hell are being trampled
are enfolded in a stirring
harmony
work although
finest of these are of ancient
the
of
new
paintings are also at times excellent.
Let us predict for these images a great future
—
twenty
just as
years ago the future importance of the old Russian ikons
Merited attention has been given to the Chinese and
predicted.
Japanese
art.
An But
art concisely.
of Japan, after the
the Persian and for study
was
elaborate literature
after a study of classic Egypt, after the subtlety
romance of China and
Mogul
miniature,
and admiration.
to the fore.
has expressed this free
The
now
after the
arabesque of
appears a
art of Central Asia
new is
object
coming
In the fiery fantasy; in the dignity of the fine form;
in the intense
and complex gradation of tones [
44
]
is
manifested this
— SIKHIM completely unique and striking
But in
art.
its
quiescent expres-
sion this art responds to the mystery of the cradle of humanity.
In
forms Asia,
itself it
and
to
which
in time shall be directed inquiries
researches.
Only,
it
without
knock upon the doors of
necessary to
is
With full profound and anonymous
without weapons, without pillage.
threats,
must we gather the
readiness
beauty
this
pearls of
achievements; without superficial
hypocrisy and without
scientific
bribed treachery.
To
study the
barbaric
life
of a nightingale by
killing
it
—
is
it
not
? •
One remembers Kara-khoto
in
•
•
•
•
keenly some objects discovered by Kozloff in
Mongolia.
of the deserts
wondrous
Especially does one recall the
image of the woman’s head. cities
first
—how
If
such a people lived in the silenced
far
were these places from being a
wilderness!
Wisely, wisely did the deserts succeed in guarding for pos-
new treasures, and not only material treasures. One must recall not only the swords of the Tartar
terity
ing the
life
and
travelers
moned I
to
Even
searchers.
the finest of
and
in
how
treasures
Mongolia for
to search.
If
fared one
.
measur-
also the tents of all
Khan’s camps were sum-
the
Sometimes
it
young doctor who was
Poor
service.
soul,
is
it,
and
lie at
sent
he knew not what
young generation could
were prepared for
unlifted.
to the
in
.
artists.
remember how badly
Urga
There are
of Central Asia.
.
realize
what
the edge of the road
only a question of lifting up
the
treasures.
A
little
shepherd boy found 120 pounds of gold in Scythian
objects, because
he was attracted by the glimmer of metal which
sparkled on the slope of the
hill, [
45
washed ]
off
by the
rain.
How
ALTAI-HIMALAYA many by
such sparks are glimmering!
But often our eyes are dulled
laziness.
The
Maitreya
blessed
always represented crowned by a
is
In Tashi-Lunpo, the monastery of the
wreath, in a great image.
Tashi-Lama, three years ago there was placed a gigantic image
new age of universal Unity. This been invoked with the new approaching era of Tibetan
of Maitreya, bearer of the idea has
chronology.
During the
service
Therein
passed around.
smoking Tibetan
the temples
in
is
empty
—
this
is
is
the idea of the grail in this filling
of the vessels before the Blessed Image. the vessel
tea
One must
never leave
contrary to the custom of the East.
Then
the gigantic trumpets are sounded, like the voices of storm and
thunder, with their
summons
to the future.
Backs adorned with
their purple mantles are bent low, thinking of the future. like a fiery field,
And
under the image of the Dream of the World,
one hundred and eight
are glimmering.
fires
In a special compartment are guarded the masks of the keepers. possible that these frightful visages can symbolize the
Is it
of benevolence
?
However,
these are not symbols of benevolence
For there
but symbols of earthly elemental forces.
and the
Even
way
is
the heaven
earth.
the physical world of Tantrik teaching,
which has been
modern understanding, must be conceived The teacher, Padma Sambhava, would not have
so degraded in
sub-
limely.
pro-
claimed only a physical teaching. •
I
•
•
•
•
look upon an ancient painting of the Monastery Daling.
Here
are the acts of the teacher,
Here
forces are represented in action.
hatted lama with Solomon’s Star a dragon.
Here
is
the teacher [
Padma Sambhava. is
upon
the teacher as a blackhis headdress, striking
summoning
46
]
All his
the rain.
Here he
SIKHI M saves a
drowning one; he charms small
evil spirits;
weaponless,
he conquers beasts and by a magic weapon he smites a first
tiger,
Here he makes
covering his head with the sacred triangle.
harmless the serpents; here he conjures the stormy current; and
he sends
mountain
Now
Now
rain.
he
fearlessly converses
Here the teacher
spirit.
with the gigantic
above
flies
And
finally in the circle of a
poor family, he prays for a be-
nign sea voyage for the absent master of the house. clouded
is
his teaching
now,
its
foundation
No matter how gleams through.
stills
“The Paradise of Padma the Temple surrounded by the
again, another ancient painting:
The
Sambhava.”
teacher
in
sits
The Temple
Righteous Ones.
from the earthly world by
stands
upon
Of
ascent!
smirched even
this
grimaces are also
A
course,
his
manifestation.
recourse to magic powers.
On New
picture
of the
How
encrusted with false
all religions.
beyond the confines of magic.
—seems
clear
commentators have be-
course, the teacher, Tsong-kha-pa,
Lamas
mountain separated
and upon them the self-denying
voyagers are crossing to the temple. illuminated
a
Across the river are
a blue river.
stretched white hati\s (scarfs)
Of
mountains.
out of the shelter of the cave he hastens to comfort the
world.
Or
all
He
still
is
nearer.
forbade the
—that
His teaching
monks
He
rose
to
have
of the Yellow
less spoiled.
Year’s Eve, February 4, after sunset, the fires in the
monasteries upon the the far-away
drums
hill
dart up.
reverberate.
And
... In
the ringing gongs and
the
morning
are held the
dances.
Before the jurations
New
Year, the evil entities are destroyed by con-
and dances.
In the Dance of the Stags, the effigy of [
47
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the evil entity
midst of the
hacked and
is
circle
parts strewn
its
around.
In the
proudly walks the Guardian of the Teaching,
—while black-headed
lamas whirl around,
swirling the wings of their broad sleeves.
Musicians in high
brandishing his sword
yellow hats are coming to the fore, like Berendeys in “Snow-
And
maiden.”
above the ornamented cornices of the temple the
eagles wheel, while
crowds stand out
The dances cance, with
removed
is
assembled
turrets of the hill the
in colorful relief.
New
themselves on the
Year’s day acquire signifi-
How
frightful symbols of evil entities.
their
the impression
against the sunny sive
from the
made by
far
these awe-inspiring masks,
background of the Himalayas, from the oppres-
dark corners of Museums where these examples are so often
collected, frightening the visitor
tional hell
Of
!
course, this hell
of the weakly developed souls,
is
by the apparition of a conveninvoked only for the terrifying
and much fantasy
is
devoted to
the intensifying of these hellish countenances. •
In the monastery of the
luminous.
with
a simple
chief lord of
•
Red Caps
the impression
is
not so
Red Monasteries
of
drag forward the black soul of a dead murderer.
like servitors
They weigh out the balance,
•
•
Padma Sambhava this is more physically conventional. The play starts “mystery” of the judgment over the dead. The hell approaches with his assistants. The beast-
In the
symbolization
•
his crimes.
The
and the murderer
is
chalice of his sins weighs
down
thereupon thrust into a seeth-
The same occurs to the soul of a female sinner. But then there is summoned forth a saint* in the vestments of a lama. He is adorned in a white scarf. Of course, the court ing caldron.
must be
just, so three
messengers of joy lead the exalted one
into paradise!
[
48
]
SIKHIM who came
Fifteen years ago there died a remarkable lama
from Mongolia. Russian
ascetic.
We saw his image —resembling A powerful visage, unconquerably
cheek bones; the eyes are piercing. this
strong
spirit,
the type of
hard are the
“During the departure of
rainbow shone over the monastery founded
a
by him.”
The lama
possessed rare books
One must send
rare books.
Remarkable books concerning his
There
into the
works of European
who
difficult to
the
remote
obtain
districts.
book of one Tashi-Lama,
a treatise
There are
collections
on the transmigration
Shambhala often find For instance,
scientists.
lived at the
in the
end of the eighteenth century. to Tibet,
remaining
In the thirties of the
monasteries.
their
way
ceme-
buried an enigmatic man, Hungarian by
is
walking from Hungary
known
very
are not translated.
tery of Darjeeling birth,
is
teachings brought from
The
is
sacred Shambhala.
visit to
They
it is
a trusted person into
exist; there
of symbolic parables. of souls.
—and
Koros, as he was called, died.
last
many
He came
years in un-
century,
Csoma de
In his works he pointed out the
teachings from Shambhala, designating the next hierarchy to
succeed Buddha.
It is
here from Hungary.
One more Lama often
very characteristic that this savant
His activity was entirely enigmatic.
spark about Shambhala. fell
A
very well
into the sanctuary,
to disappear altogether,
Tashi-
Shambhala.
These
being transported
ecstasies vividly transport
one to the discourses of the time of Saint John de
were raised
known
into an ecstasy during his talks with his pupils.
Sometimes he seemed
Saint Theresa
came
when both
la
Croix with
blessed conversationalists in exultation
to the ceiling of the
[
room.
49
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Remembering
exalted occurrences, one also recalls the sparks
“A
of indignation.
Blessed
One was
so indignant, that a spark of lightning struck
Of
the offender.
slanderer once approached Buddha, but the
course, the Blessed
blow and revived the defamer, but the
One
had been so shocked
latter
The
that he forgot his plan of attack.
arrested the counter-
sparks of the counter-
blow!”
“The
case
also told that
is
Sengchen Lama, before
would soon reincarnate again
tion in Lhasa, pointed out that he
on
earth.
And
truly very soon in Chinese
same
a boy with the
rare
and
his execu-
Turkestan was born
characteristic physical defect
on
his
Lama. Now this Mongolian prince is more than twenty years of age. At present in our service is the son of the servant of the late Lama, and he was wont to travel on the errands of his father to the young prince.” knee, which distinguished the late
•
Whoever in the
is
•
•
•
•
acquainted with riding horseback in Caucasia or
Arizona and Colorado canyons, will
the steeps of the hills of Sikhim.
know how
to climb
Only, instead of the colorful
tragedy of American wonders, here you behold an ascending
garden cultivated by the mysterious in
its
are
unknown
caves
sit
hermits,
composing the legend of
He who ancient
known
has
town
sites
And
rise of exalted teaching.
who upon
celestial
the strings of earth
life.
the approaches to the old monasteries and
in Russia with
their
blossoming
hills
and
fragrant pine groves, will understand the feeling on the approach to the monasteries of Sikhim.
I
always repeat that
to see a beautiful spot, ask the inhabitants of a
out the most ancient
knew how
site.
to select the
with
its
wheels of
niches for seats
life, its
town
to point
These people of times immemorial
most beautiful
Every mountain summit
you want
if
is
places.
crowned by
a beautiful
mendong,
prayers carved in relief and with
from which you behold the image of the [
50
]
its
far-off
SIKHIM distances.
Here lamas and
Here each
ners are fluttering.
Here ban-
travelers are meditating.
down
rider will slow
his horse.
From the mountain summit you plunge again into the receding hills. The ribs of the checkered hillocks also disappear, like the backs of panthers, tigers and wolves. After the
hills,
and monsters impede the way.
The
snakes
like tigers
Green gnomes
again the fairy-tales of the forest.
The verdant webs
wind themselves around
and leopards here
intertwine.
The moss-
the trunks.
are lurking.
An
enchanted world
this!
The most
fantastic hills
ing Sacred Chalice
—a
and rocks form themselves into
a seem-
In the center of the valley
vast valley.
unapproachably stands the mountain of the White Stone, girded by two
rivers.
crowned by the Monastery Tashi-ding, which
It is
means “Valley open
to heaven.”
to search the endless wrinkles
and
An
ancient place this.
cavities of
unearth the treasures collected by the monastery stone, fulfillment of all wishes; the
hundred images of Buddha; porarily hidden
;
and
all else
Try
rocks.
its
Try to
—the miraculous
immortal Amritha and a
as well as all the sacred
books tem-
spoken of in the ancient manuscript,
“The Voyage through Sikhim.”
The approaches
have the impossible
trails
down
must be traversed by human
crossing on the suspended
hazardous.
bamboo
bridge
is
feet!
especially
Below, the mountain river rushes and roars, bearing
the icy current
on the steep
recently
been transformed into steep footpaths.
Verily, the path of the spirit
One
Only
to Tashi-ding are very difficult.
slope,
from Kinchenjunga.
And
you pause many times: Shall
above the bridge I
at last arrive?
One must hold one’s breath to conquer this age-old mountain. Upon the upper slope an honorary reception is arranged for us by the land owners. us,
Ale, sugar-cane and tangerines await
under the canopy of rushes adorned with
their yellow garlands.
Farther off resound the reverberant drums and silver gongs:
[5i]
The
On
reception of the monastery.
the last slope
we
met
are
by the pipers and trumpeters.
Amidst the rows of
crowd you reach
a colorful
Behind the gates of the monastery,
place.
the lamas receive you.
In the front
head lama of the monastery, stands
row
in purple
garments,
man,
a venerable old
image
like a delicately carved
Thus you walk up
of the fifteenth century.
the ancient
to the spreading
turquoise tents in the midst of a forest of stupas and amidst
many-colored banners, amidst the sparkling rows of
In the
first
full
moon
after
New
fires.
Year, which
on the twentieth of February, there was the annual Tashi-ding.
The
this year
fell
festival in
miracle of the self-filling chalice occurs at
the time.
Since
miracle
ancient days
has been
mountain
full
moon, the
A
chalice
diminished but sometimes
war.
Now
is
drawn and poured
In the presence of witnesses, chalice
closed
is
year later at sunrise during the same
unsealed amidst due ceremony and
is is
this
designated spot in the
of water
chalice.
sealed.
war
a
Maharajah of Sikhim, the
the quantity of water
year of the great
From
vessel
wooden
representatives of the
and hermetically
than eight generations ago
ordained.
river a small
into an ancient
—
—more
measured. it
Sometimes the water has
has increased considerably.
which meant
the water tripled in quantity,
the water has diminished by
half,
In the
which means
famine and disorder. This
evil
omen
has been intensified by another sign.
On
February twentieth there occurred a complete eclipse of the
moon.
Never has there been
The trumpets
so evil a sign.
sound, the whistles shiiek, the people in cos-
tumes, as though from the “Snowmaiden,” proceed to the great stupa.
The
choir, singing,
winds [
52
]
its
way around
the crowds.
SIKHIM Many
The drums of the lamas resoundmoment darkness falls athwart the clear
prostrate themselves.
At
ingly thunder.
this
The golden
moonlight!
of offerings
gleam out
moon!
has stolen the
Never was
it
as
though
The demon
Occurs a complete eclipse!
against black velvet.
Rakhu
fires
so until this day of
miracle in Tashi-ding. Said Asura
Razayana by
Rakhu deceit,
when, on the
And
orbit!”
to the sun: “Because thou hast carried shall
I
swallow
thee,
god of sun,
day, you will unite
thirtieth
Rakhu pronounced
further
I
be cut asunder,
shall seize thee
I
a prophetic threat: “In
watching the
commanded
and devour thee on the
date of the fifteenth, during the time of the full attentively the people are
time
the knots of the
penalty that thou, moon, although recognizing me, that
at that
away
And
moon!”
eclipse of the
moon and
sun and beat upon the drums and threaten Rakhu.
But there was
beheld garlands of
At
one good omen.
also
fire starting to
sunrise the head
glow upon the peaks
lama
of the
mountains.
When
the
moon was
menced around
the
restored to the world, the dancing
main
stupa, a typical Russian round.
songs are also like the Russian; their import a
monastery dwells our Lord Buddha.
offering”
but
I
—so
We
begins one song; or “Mighty
shall find a spot for
it
close to
my
is
spiritual.
bring to is
com-
The “In
him our
the sacred
book
heart” or, “I recollect
the sacred monastery.”
In a white kaftan the approaches.
We
artist
who
decorated the local temple
have arranged for him to go with us to paint
the Blessed Maitreya.
He
will demonstrate the technique of the
local painting.
[
53
]
—
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Red, yellow, white, purple kaftans; women’s sleeves of crimson, green sing,
and white.
Peaked
and for two nights walk around the
They
Padma Sambhava gave
They walk around another teacher’s
foot
upon which
his benediction of the site.
stone bearing the imprint of the
and the imprint of hoofs and paws of
beasts.
again the chorus marches around the stupa, singing of the
fulfillment of
desires.
all
•
•
•
•
•
Entering the temple, you walk along your
of the altar wall,
Maitreya-Buddha
is
is
These positions are
earth.
armed,
Buddha
Upon
spiritual
like
Buddha.
to the wall
Sect, in the center
Or now, perhaps
Sometimes the lower temple
at the right.
is
the upper one to Buddha.
closely related to the inner
heaven;
represents
up
meanings of the
Padma Sambhava
the
the side niches are images of Avalokiteshvara
conclave of brotherhood, many-headed and many-
our Russian Hundred-Armed One.
statues of the asteries
the statue of
Padma Sambhava and
dedicated to
teachings:
left
Within the temples of the Yellow
of the altar.
a
talk,
stupa.
are touching their foreheads to the stone
the teacher,
And
The people
hats, fur-edged.
There are
also
“Keepers of Lightning,” of the founders of Mon-
and of sixteen Arhats,
sitting in
carved caves.
Upon
the altar are lamps and various offerings, seven chalices with
water, a saucer of
The
with incense, a shrine with
rice, censers
relics.
walls are generally covered with frescoes, especially one
wall, that of the altar.
At
the entrance stand the images of the
guardians of the four hemispheres.
found an image of the seven
among them on
In every temple will be
treasures vouchsafed to
a white horse
humanity;
the image of the miraculous
is
stone.
In a special compartment are kept the sacred books. [
54
]
The
SIKHIM common dream
of the monasteries
books; but books are expensive
is
—a
number of volume costs up to a
to increase the
sacred
thousand rupees. Especially touching
is
the evening, here in the
ornamented beams.
the service of the thousand lights, in
low frescoed temple, with
In the center
is
a long table
its
on which
are set; along the walls also stand rows of lights,
of fires caressingly undulates and sways,
columns and
wrapped
and
fires
this sea
in a veil of
smoke from the sandalwood, wild mint and other fragrances, which are consumed in the urns. During this service the singing, too,
of exquisite harmony.
is
Along
High
saddles are covered with bright fabrics.
are bearing the bulging-bellied luggage.
There
pilgrims seeking a resting place for the night. a
few banners
A
the dead.
wind their way. Wild white ponies
paths, the caravans of the pilgrims
all
raised in
crowd up
memory
are
crowds of
Here and
there are
of the living and oftener for
to 1,200 collects together
—but a peaceful,
good crowd.
At
dawn, long before
early
mountain drone of
are
still
soft
amber, the
creeps along
life
when the snows on the camp begins to stir. The
sunrise,
and broadens; the cadence of
early
prayer mingles with the stamping of horses and mules.
In the morning, a procession makes
its
way toward our
tents.
The head lama himself proclaims the bringing of gifts. After him follow high uplifted trays with rice, with the ribs of a ram, with sugar-cane, with ale and fruit. The lama himself makes the offering to our traveling kitchen.
Amidst the under
a
stupas are spread the tents of the pilgrims.
green canopy are sitting lamas from Tibet.
Here
Women
are
The hand drums
turning for them the lengthy pages of the prayer book.
lamas are intoning Tantrik songs,
and gongs.
Where
is
to the
sounds of
Stravinsky, Stokovsky, Prokofieff, [
55
]
where
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Zavadsky, to portray the powerful modes of these stirring calls?
And how
fine
the white-gold face of her
is
who
turns the pages
before the singers.
Not
group from Nepal are clapping hands
far off, a
beat and chanting.
moved,
ecstatically
In the center, a
dances the Sherpa Dance,
It
is
motion
full
rhythmic
features un-
of the fine
Sometimes she moves her hands
gestures of conjuration. fluttering
woman, with
in
and
like a bird
utters a
in a
weird birdlike
call.
indeed striking.
There the wanderers from Bhutan are praying under canopy.
a red
Before the distribution of the healing waters, a sacred
procession walks around the stupas.
them
in high red hats; after
In the front are trumpeters
the lamas in tiaras,
and behind are
borne a long row of sacred books.
At
head lama quietly speaks of
sunset, within the tent, the
the sanctuaries of Sikhim.
He
relates the “miracles”
which he
has heard, or has himself seen; of the buzzing of swarms of
and
invisible bees; of the singing
celestial
music; of the appari-
At our departure the lama pointed out two gracious omens: Upon our way, coming to meet us, were three brimming bamboo water-pails carried by water carriers tions of sacred images.
and two woodsmen with
full fagots of
wood.
# #
Tashi-ding
is
#
one of Sikhim’s prominent
to the parish of a great monastery, travel It
away.
It
is
also
sites
Pemayangtse, and
on the peak, standing
has been newly rebuilt.
Its
and belongs
like a
is
a day’s
bulwark.
renovation has been done with
such sensitiveness that even the most recent painting gives you joy by
its
fine
and ingenious decoration. [
56
]
And
the carvings
on
SIKHIM And
the casements are fairylike.
the
you into the wooden temples of Russia. lamas with their sive red
festive purple
Dignified are the head
garments and with their impresNevertheless one recalls
adorning their heads.
tiaras
heavy doorways lead
tall
with most pleasure the eighty-year-old abbot of Tashi-ding, ever zealous and careful to improve his structure, with his economical eye penetrating everywhere.
Behind the gates of Pemayangtse are standing ancient
three-hundred-year-old
A
Berendey.
trees
tiny street of the lamas’
—like homes
Berendey, painted and ornamented with
and
the
its
is
as
guardians
fairy
like the
forest
of
suburb of
many-colored porches
stairways.
Here a small
is
“Heaven’s Sacred Mountain” and upon
mountain
There
lake.
is
also a small
its
peaks shines
temple erected
on the spot where the founder of the Red Sect in Sikhim
From Dubdi, The
Lake and thence
the founder passed to the Sacred
into the ancient
Sanga Choling.
four most ancient monasteries of Sikhim are Dubdi, Sanga
And
Choling, Daling and Robling.
the meanings of their
are noble ones: “Palace of Meditation,” “Island of Secret ing,” “Island of Lightning”
An
excellent monastery
Daling with
boo grove.
its
and “Island of Happy
is
ners
—gold
are
no
at the altar
is
we
preciously kept a sealed
on a black background. but there
of the founder;
Teach-
blue-white, porcelainlike entrance amidst a
Here
relics,
names
Striving.”
Sanga Choling; nor do
taining relics of the founder of the monastery.
when
lies
the
a stone
life in
Choling there
sacred by the blessing
the monastery
is
undefiled the
firm, but each besmirching of life
makes the stone
Here
are those tiny doors, beloved to
me
[
57
]
bam-
There are ban-
In Sanga
made
forget
box con-
is
stone
lived.
in
crack.
Novgorod and
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Here
Yaroslavl.
beautiful
is
fresco
polychrome ornaments entwining
and doors.
Here
to the faith,
true widow’s
also lighting a
fire
adamantly
“the Keeper of Lightning.”
rises
Although the
the
casements of the windows
of dedicated offerings.
fires
—a
are
same rounded backs of pilgrims devoted
are the
and the
all
Here
painting.
Our
And
mite.
Padma Sambhava, was
teacher,
coolies are
above them
never in Pe-
mayangtse, yet in the monastery are kept the things which
belonged
to this
sealed but
founder of the religion.
on some occasions
shown;
are
The
things are kept
a garment, headdress,
wondrous chime, two magic daggers and image of Buddha.
beads, tiny bells of a
small exquisite
And the
more thunderous in Pemayangtse and dragon guardians seem more terrifying and the influence of the trumpets sound
the monastery
rajah are near. rajah is
ruins of the palace of the
According to the
was chosen
few
The
greater.
is
custom the religion.
first
Maha-
Maha-
But there
in the big monastery.
solitary temples
rounded by peach and
biblical
by the head of the
to reign
no figure of Maitreya
A
a
with a single
rose flowers
fire
before them, sur-
and intertwining orchids and
wild peonies, indicate closer the path of simple attainment of the
Teaching.
Out
of the forest walks a peasant and his head
white flowers.
Where
Only
this possible?
is
•
•
•
•
the
hills,
Through
is
no poverty.
The
amidst blossoming
in Sikhim.
Where
trees,
Here
stand the quiet
little
no
Upon houses.
and glimmer
are people carrying their vege-
tables; here they pasture their cattle [
there are
people are living simply.
the colored branches shine the bright stars
the snow-covered peaks.
adorned with
•
Are the inhabitants of Sikhim poor? riches there
is
58
]
and smile kindly.
Here
CITADELS
AND
SANCTUARIES
SIKHIM with fairylike music they walk along the steep paths in wedding
Knowing
processions.
And
bodies.
of reincarnation they quietly cremate the
Mark, they are often singing.
they are singing.
Verily, one can sing
under a canopy of various flowers and
Orchids, like colorful eyes, cling to the trunks of the
plants.
Pink, purple and yellow bouquets are strewn along
giant trees.
way like bright sparks. And many have their ancient powers of
these are not simply plants;
the
Nature awaits here
healing.
Come
full of gifts.
hither and be cured.
Charura, Parura, Orrura are the three important curative against cough, cold
and
Charura
fever.
is
Parura like a green chestnut and Orrura
the red bark of
is
fever
is
yellow cherry;
like a
like a yellowish-green
All three are sharp to the taste and full of tannin.
crab-apple.
Here
fruits
Aku Ombo,
to cure
wounds. Salve against
Sergi Phurba, like a dry giant bean.
Chuta, the dry
bitter root, will cure swelling
and heal the
brown powder
The red-stemmed Tze produces
magenta;
for
Purma
bitter
of Berekuro
the stomach,
dendron; while the
Memshing
is
for incenses.
effective for
is
Dangero heal
colds.
Pati
head ornaments
is
women’s
much
leaf of
A
ailments.
The
a disinfectant for
is
a
flowers of
like the flower of the red
Dysro
is
broth from the roots
a sacred plant in Nepal,
at festivals.
Bassack
throat.
where
it
is
rhodo-
wounds. used for
Endless are the useful plants await-
ing the best application and study.
The just as
upon
leaves of the herb
do the “snow-frogs” *
a stone
animal,
Ava Duti
it
you
are said “to soften” stones,
in the
see the print of
an
Himalayas.
elk’s foot or the
seems they have eaten or touched
Turning again
to legends: near
this
—a
paw
if
of an
wondrous herb.
Phalut on the road to Kinchen-
junga grows a precious plant, the black aconite. * Snow-frogs”
Therefore
Its
flower lights
legend which attributes to snow-frogs the ability to soften
stones. [
59
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA up
at night,
again
is
and by
glow one
its
fulfills
us not to superstition but to that
wishes
all
•
•
•
•
a conjuration
offering receives
good or
of
lay there
we
leads
•
The branches
gift.
rhododendron and some other plants were
evil,
there,
our house, and covered with a
their leaves pointing to is
which
same source wherein so much
Before our gates was found a strange
This
—and
concealed.
lies
fir tree,
Here
the trace of the legend of the Russian fire flower, that
enchanted blossom which
still
locates this rare plant.
(Sunnium) and the man who
upon himself
which
all
is
sworn upon
at
it.
with stone.
raises this it,
whether
For many days
sickness or sorrow or joy.
and even horses shied
flat
of a
The same
it
conjuration
observed in the suburb of Jaipur; there in the middle of a lamb’s
street, in a flat basket, lay a
rupees.
None touched them.
liver,
and three
flowers
silver
These conjurations are of very
ancient origin. •
•
•
•
Everywhere are legends of the accidental
which was followed by dumbness and
spots, the revelation of
even death. Thus accidentally teries,
it is
wandered
discoveries of sacred
told that
one Shikari (a hunter) in Assam,
into a sacred place
and when he attempted
to reveal
and beheld
them he was
its
mys-
stricken
dumb. •
On
the shore of the sea
and near the top of
it
is
•
is
•
•
•
moving
a stick.
It
moves on alone
tied a lighted tinder.
Thus do
the
conjurers of the coast of Malabar invoke their conjurations to
burn the house of an enemy. overtake such a stick but
A
it
Doctor Jones of Calcutta
“walked away” beyond
legend from around Mongolia:
and her son was desirous
“A
that a high [
60
]
his
tried to
own
pace.
venerated mother died
lama possessed of exalted
SIKHIM powers should perform the
services over her.
But such a lama
moment
of death deposited
The son
could not be found.
at the
the spirit of the departing one into a sandalwood casket, strongly
and himself invited the
sealed this sanctuary
The lamas
Tibet.
gan
change
to
exertion.
concentrated upon the casket; one of them be-
becoming
in countenance, first
Then suddenly
the eyes of
red, then blue
from
the casket burst into splinters before
This lama was able to free the
all.
from
best lamas
spirit
and thus
could perform the service.” •
•
•
•
•
The people here know everything; they have heard everything. One can remember and disclose all things in the twilight: of “Nam-Yg” (heavenly letters) the letters and sacred books which
—
are falling
change
from heaven; of rings of
silver or turquoise
their color as a sign of foreboding
from heaven
the stone bead, sent
and warning; of
A woman the image of
•
•
•
in the
she discovered an image and brought
soon she forgot
stone and put
it
is
found
in her
into a coffer
known.
might
receive
morning amid her
flowers
it
that she
into her shrine.
and Buddha disappeared from the
woman
Next time the
disappeared.
it
All this
•
was very pious and dreamt Buddha. Working
Si,
guard the health; of the
to
finding of objects which disappear afterward. •
which
But
shrine.
garden a whirling sparkling
and forgot
Then
it.
the stone
Neglect always results in the disappearance of the
bestowed happiness.
Do
not record the things which can be read in books but those
which
are related to
living ones. life.
Not by
you the
in person; for those
thoughts are the
book but by the thought
Understand the sparks of the primordial
[
61
]
shall bliss.
you judge
ALTAI-HIMALAYA In the twilight under the flowing
in the purple sheen
stars,
of the mist, sounds the soft voice of the lama, telling his calm tale of the
“King
and wisdom, possessed of
of the
new
The
tale
World,” of His power, of His action
of the
which each warrior
of His legions, in
some extraordinary
gift.
And
he
tells
shall be
of the dates
age of general well-being
is
taken from an ancient Tibetan book, wherein,
under symbolic names, are given the future movements of the
Dalai-Lama and Tashi-Lama, which have already been
There are described the
whom
of rulers under
the country shall fall during the reign of the monkeys.
But afterwards
Someone
shall the rule
of greatness.
—which will be in When this earth
He was
•
•
The
Blessed
artist,
•
Thou
said
shalt take the
the artist
consented and desig-
artist
could not take the
hand trembled
Then
proached the Blessed One.
Buddha to depart from Dharmapala to bequeath
One
but the
exact measurements because his
And
•
asked by four lords of
nated the most worthy
reflection.”
calculated in twelve years
for the Blessed
mankind His image.
near the water.
is
1936.
came
the time
be regained and then will come
His coming
•
to
marks
special physical
fulfilled.
so
Buddha,
when he
ap-
“I shall stand
my
measurements from
was thus enabled
to
do
so,
and
exe-
cuted four images, modeled from a sacred alloy of seven metals.
Two are
of these images are
still
now
in
Lhasa and the remaining two
hidden until the appointed time.
One Tibetan
ruler married Chinese
and Nepal princesses
in
order that through them he might attract to Tibet the two sacred
images of Buddha.
Twelve hundred
Sambhava brought
years
after
closer to
Buddha, the
men [62]
teacher
Padma
the teachings of the Blessed
SIKHIM One.
At
the birth of
Padma Sambhava
the skies were aglow
all
The
and the shepherds saw miraculous tokens. Teacher was manifested
Sambhava did not
to the
world
eight-year-old
Lotus flower.
in the
new
die but departed to teach
Padma
Had
countries.
he not done so the world would be threatened with
disaster.
In the cave Kandro Sampo, not far from Tashi-ding, near a
Padma Sambhava
certain hot spring, dwelt
A
himself.
certain
giant, thinking to penetrate across to Tibet, attempted to build
a passage into the Sacred
and growing great
bold venturer.
And now
is
Padma Sambhava and behind this
it is
in the cave
a stone door.
their revelation
the image of
It is
known
so resonant a tone
?
The
in the
Buddhist temples have
ruler of Tibet decided to
summon from
from the place where dwelt the Blessed One,
a learned
lama, in order to purify the fundamentals of the teaching.
The High Lama of design of a new trumpet so
meet the guest?
vision,
that
have not yet come.
Wherefore do the giant trumpets
to
Thus
door the Teacher hid sacred mysteries for the future.
But the dates for
India,
up
Blessed Teacher rose
in height struck the
was the giant destroyed. behind
The
Land.
gave the
Tibet, having
How had
a
that the guest should
be received with unprecedented sound; and the meeting was a
wonderful one
—not by
the wealth of gold but by the grandeur
of sound! •
•
Why
do the gongs
volume?
And
•
•
•
in the temple ring out
as silver,
with such great
resound the gongs and
and evening, when the atmosphere
is
bells at
dawn
Their sound
tense.
re-
minds one of the legend of the great Lama and the Chinese emperor. the
Lama,
In order to the emperor
test
made
and covering them with
The Lama made
the
knowledge and clairvoyance of
for
him
a seat
from sacred books
fabrics, invited the guest to sit
certain prayers
and then
[63]
sat
down.
down.
The em-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA demanded
peror
how
could you
knowledge
of him, “If your
down on
sit
the sacred books?”
peror, instead of his sacred volumes,
The emperor thereupon gave But the
of liquid chime.
And
Lama.
sacred volumes,” answered the
to the
Lama
so universal,
is
“There are no
found only blank papers.
Lama many
indeed the waters carried to
him
chimes, clear as the waters of the
A
She said bring
it
him,
to
to
me
‘I
The
now.’
He
dog. silk
is
A
it
of Buddha.’
nought.
if
But the traveler
from
last
in the
espies the skull of a
in yellow
it
him,
old
in silk, saying, ‘This
it
the most sacred
And
glow with pure from
rites,
is
then
the tooth
the miracle rays
directing is
all
and many miracles and
it.”
searched for twelve years for Maitreya-Buddha.
As he walked along
his
her
accomplished.
where did he find him, and becoming angry, he faith.
home, he
his
woman asks of request, my son?’ He
The
wrapped
sacred manifestations result
A man
my
her holy of holies.
tooth begins to
will not
the mother puts the tooth into her shrine,
and performs before to
you
son went to Lhasa and again forgot
to the house.
And
to bring
But where can one find sacred objects
gives her the dog’s tooth
The
your eyes
half day’s journey
‘Have you forgotten again
worship
river.
decides to take out a tooth and folding
he brings
monastery.”
the bells, with their crystal
shall die here before
recalled the promise.
There
my
Buddha. But the youth forgot her request.
the mother’s request.
desert?
they are
If
mother many times asked her son
to her a sacred relic of
bells
ordered them to be thrown into
necessary to me, the river will bring these gifts to
“Talismans.
and
gifts
the river, saying, “I will not be able to carry these.
And
em-
the astonished
No-
rejected his
way he beheld one who with
a
horsehair was sawing an iron rod, repeating to himself, “If the
whole of fusion
life is
fell
not enough yet will
upon him —
I
saw
“What mean my [64]
this
through.”
Con-
twelve years,” he said,
SIKHIM “in the face of such persistence?
my
will return to
I
search.”
Thereupon Maitreya-Buddha himself appeared before the man and
said,
“Long
already have
I
been with you but you did
me and
not see me, and you repulsed
spat
upon me.
I
will
make a test. Go to the bazaar. I will be upon your shoulder.” The man went, aware that he carried Maitreya. But the men around him shrank from him, closing their noses and eyes. “Wherefore do you shrink from me, people?” he asked. “What a fright
you have on your shoulder
—an
ill-smelling
Again the people did not
boils!” they replied.
dog
The lama
—one
Now
can retain.
seeing.
“There are three kinds of teaching
says,
the stranger, one for our
who
Maitreya-
see
Buddha, for each beheld only what he was worthy of
full of
own, and the third
for
for the initiated
through ignorance they slaughter animals,
they drink wine, they have property and eat meat and live squalidly. is
Does
religion permit
teaching; where
The
is
all this ?
teaching, there
is
Where
beauty, there
beauty.
Your emotions and desires are Therefore know clearly what you desire. Buddha you shall behold the dog.
people here are sensitive.
transmitted so easily.
Otherwise instead of
That which
hidden in the past
is
is
not of importance
and unfinished,
which
in age-old books, copied
dust.
For the new construction, that which
into
is
life is
the living
important.
word
is
measured the
Under Kinchenjunga ing the treasures.
Not through
lies
now
—that
covered with resolves itself
library shelves but
through
possibility of future structures.
are secreted the caves in
which
are rest-
In stone coffins the cave dwellers are praying,
torturing themselves in the
name
of the future.
But the sun
already has defined the future; not in secret caves but in full sunlight one perceives the worship and expectation of Maitreya-
[65]
!
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Buddha.
It is
now
three years since the Tashi
New
and openly dedicated the great
The
intense, invisible
The Tashi Lama
is
work
Image
Incidentally,
it
may
solemnly
in his Tashi-lhunpo.
progresses.
now on
way
his
to
Unprecedented through the ages
China.
Lama
Mongolia by way of
is
Mystery!
this event.
be that through Sikhim passed only the ab-
ducting detachment and the
Lama
moved on
himself
to
Mon-
golia. •
On
•
morning upon
a sacred
•
•
•
mountain
the
started to
glow rows
of fire—another mystery! •
Just
now
the
wave
•
•
•
of attention
is
•
turned toward Tibet
—behind
the mountain rampart events are stirring, but Tibetan secrecy is
Information
great.
contradictory.
is
Whither disappeared the
Lama ? What military manoeuvers proceed on border? What transpires on the Mongolian line? Tashi
the Chinese
A
year of
events
Sikhim
called the land of lightning.
is
occurs lightning but steps”?
For
it
is it
not simpler to
would be
Of
call it
course, here also
“the land of future
imagine a better threshold
difficult to
to the mysteries of the future than this unexplored, rarely pene-
trated country of rocks
As behind
and
flowers.
on
a tiny silver apple
Himalayas reveal themselves.
steps of the
do the
a saucer,
hills
and
Hundreds, perhaps
more, are the monasteries in Sikhim, each crowning the top of a summit.
monastery
A in
small temple in
Rinchenpong.
gleaming white Pemayangtse, ding
is
almost unseen.
On
and opposite Robling and
Chakong;
Upon still
a big
the next
suburgan and
mountain appears
higher, Sanga Choling.
the other side of the valley still [
nearer Namtse.
66
]
is
Tashi-
Daling
For a distance
— SIKHIM of forty miles one
may behold
we must
the monasteries for
not
forget that here one sees extremely far.
And
again before us
is
And
the wall to Tibet.
bone of the lizard but the snow-white girdle the peaks of this wall
arrow northward
— there
upon
outlined
is
—the girdle of the earth.
not the back-
Let us point the
must be the base of Mount Meru.
The Talmud relates that the dove brought the first olive branch to Noah from Mount Moriah. And Mount Moriah and the mountain Meru both lie in Asia. Here is the beginning of all Here
things.
Here
the source for
is
raised the first
is
Muntazar.*
Here
Some one is
up the
in his ear,
Here above
his
and garbed
Don-dub, the
local
all
all
searchers.
—Messiah
disputes, the
new
branch of the
olive
world.
commune. and touched our
voluntarily approached
man, with
this
M!
ordained the universal
is
and
image of the Blessed Maitreya
Thrice powerful
teachings have raised
travelers
all
Who
tent!
long black braid and a turquoise earring in a
white kaftan?
We
ikon painter.
It is
the
Lama, Pema
“Can you
ask,
paint for
us the Blessed Maitreya, exactly like the one in Tashi-lhunpo?”
He
consents and
now
he
sits
on
a tiny
rug in the corner of the
white gallery, and with various pigments, paints the Image of symbols. it
He
prepares the fabric for the painting and covers
with lev\as (a mixture of chalk on glue), and irons
a shell.
full
He works
exactly like Russian ikon painters.
same way does he grind
his colors, heat
them on
a coal
with
it
In the
pan
;
and
thus does he keep an additional brush in his thick black hair.
His Tibetan wife helps him to prepare his colors.
And
so, in
the corner of the white gallery
the ingenious image, many-colored.
more like *
clearly defines the Blessed
One.
And
is
being conceived
each symbol upon
Here
is
the frightful bird-
Garuda and wise Magi and Ganeshi, elephant
Muntazar
—the
of happiness,
Messiah now awaited by the Mohammedans. [
67
]
it
ALTAI-HIMALAYA and Chintamani, the
Steed, bearing
stone, Treasure of the
World.
And upon
the
A
labors.
The
chants
And
laid
pure gold.
lama chants hymns fervent;
this
as
means he
when
the
waxing moon
one hears through the house the In the darkness the
he is
itself.
another wonder occurs, only possible in this land.
the deep twilight
flute.
is
artist
become more
beginning upon the Image
back the miraculous
its
sacred cycle of chosen symbols.
image and the hands
Like our ikon painters, the
on
possesses all things,
handmade upon his rug,
silvery tones of a
lama
artist
In
is
sitting
playing with rapture before the image of Maitreya-Messiah-
Muntazar.
The
Strings of the Earth!
Talai-Pho-Brang.
[
68
]
Part
III
PIR-PANZAL (1925)
have passed the hordes of the great Mongols
Where
Where
has the lost tribe of Israel concealed itself?
Where
“Throne of Solomon”? the religion of
Where
is
Where
demons?
Where
Jehangir?
Where
stands the
the paths of Christ the
Wan-
the bonfires of the Shamans, Bon-po, of
Where glow
derer?
lie
?
the mysterious cave,
Shalimar, the gardens of
Lhasa, Khotan?
of Pamir,
roads
the
are
is
Where is the path Where are the walls Where did Avan-
Amarnath?
of Alexander the Great to forgotten Taxila
?
Where did Ashvagosha teach? tisvamin create ? Where are the citadels of ChandraguptaMaurya? Where are the stones of wisdom of King Asoka? All have passed by way of Kashmir. Here lie the ancient ways
of
Akbar?
.
And
of Asia. great
East.
are the sandy deserts
on the way to Peshawar; and the
blue peaks of Sonamarg; and the white slopes of Zoji-La. in the flight of the eagles steed roses
is
the
.
each caravan flashes by as a connecting link in the
body of the
Here
.
is
the
same untiring
Nor
same unalterable motion.
And
spirit; in the fleet
does the world of
and shawls of Kashmir resemble that forgotten and hidden
world of Kashmiri blades. •
“Sacre
du Printemps”
Stravinsky,
with
its
we
•
•
•
—when
•
we composed
it
together with
could not conceive that Kashmir would greet us
very setting.
the vivid spring sky
In Ghari, camping out by night,
became
afire
[69]
with
stars
when
and the mountains
ALT AI-HI MALAYA were azured, we observed rows of
The
fires
Then
about.
into motion, separated
started
And
fiery processions.
began
mountain
the
and strangely
circles
circled
became aglow with
slopes
these
in the village below, dark silhouettes
on long
to whirl about brandishing resin torches
The flaming
proclaimed the end of winter
the songs proclaimed the Sacred Spring. the
upon the mountains.
fires
This
is
staffs.
And
frosts.
the festival of
Ninth of March. •
•
•
•
•
The cuckoo on the meadow
“Bulbul,” the nightingale, sings on the apple tree.
White
reckons out a long
life.
and
boiling.
a
samovar
is
linens are spread
Red and yellow
apples
and sweet
cakes are passed around to those seated upon the spring grass.
The eyes of the violets and the white and yellow woven into a many-hued carpet. At evening, flocks
narcissus are
of ducks
and
geese completely cover the tiny islands over the lakes.
Small
them
—unless
on the spring
bears steal out
the mother-bear
The
river
is
with her cubs.
.
.
.
Upon
tall
gleam often
In the sheds
lie
.
line of
And
is
this?
And
the teeth of the encoun-
The
sleighs.
straw roof
in
Schuya or Kolomna?
“City of the Sun.”
[
70
In the is
over-
the road are gnarled willow
Along
the greetings of the children are noisy.
Is it
steer their
oxen drag themselves
—veritable Moscow
yard, a crane screeches above the well.
trees.
boatsmen
in the smile of greeting.
the sleighs
grown with green moss.
fears
Three-hundred-year-old plantains
poplars guard the ways.
tered travelers
.
a broad road the
and the wheels grind along.
and
.
A
banks are sloping.
canopied boats.
But none
glades.
]
It is
But where
in Srinagar, in the
PIR-PANZAL Tiny, big-bellied steps of stone
pillars
—the
—small ornamental
designs
gilded roofs of the temple
—steep
—creaking,
little
orna-
—rusty locks—low doors with their “curtesy” — carved balustrades — slanting on stony — the odor of old lacquer— small windows with diminutive panes. mented window-shutters
little
floors
tiles
Where
are
we then?
Is this
How
Maharajah of Kashmir. mains from
Upon one
antiquity.'
the road are
sees the faces of
hang two of the
gazes
paintings
This
is
curious
these
of Yaroslavl?
What
daws?
of the endless flocks of
branches behind the windows?
Are
Kremlin of Rostov?
Are they the temples
the monasteries of Suzdal?
And what
the
of the
naked
the chief palace of the is
everything which
re-
But the modern additions are hideous.
many
Fords.
Americans.
In the hotel dining
room
In the jewelry shop, side-by-side,
—one of the view of Delhi, the other the view
Moscow Kremlin. Among the crystals into which one for destiny; among the sapphires of Kashmir and the
Tibetan turquoises, are shimmering green Chinese jadaites like a garden,
kaftans.
—and
many-colored are the borders of the embroidered
Like precious shawls the rooms of the
museum
are
strewn with minute Iran-designs and “Gandhara,” belabored by destiny, unifies the cleft branches of
West and
East.
In the styles of the temples and mosques; in the angular carved
dragons; in the tentlike, sloping hexagonal tower,
is
seen an
Norway drawn the Roman-
unexpected combination of the old wooden churches of
and the Chinese pagodas.
Out
of one well
is
esque Chimera, the animal ornaments of Altai and the tiny
animals of Chinese Turkestan and China. of the nations have carried afar the
The
fort of
Akbar
flights,
[7i]
Siberian paths
same meaning of adornment.
stands firmly planted.
climbed the steepnesses and
The
But
after
you have
you may perceive that the
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The
old bricks and the claybeaten cement barely hold together. arches are ready to give way. •
•
«
•
•
Nishad, the garden of Akbar, occupies the to the hill
—a
The
high place.
the corners are the
structures are
from the lake
site
modest and upon
towers so beloved by him.
little
They
are
characterized by simplicity and brightness.
Shalimar its
—the
garden of Jehangir
ants of the
Moguls
—of
that luxury
The
to poverty.
with
of outward show,
is less
which brought the descendlast
Mogul, in Delhi,
secretly
and destroyed the valuable
sold furniture out of the palace
ings of the walls of
also in character
is
There
possessor, standing “for itself.”
but more of luxury
—
fac-
Thus ended
Shah Jehan and Aurungzeb.
the great dynasty. •
•
•
•
•
Kashmir accompanied the making of each of Such a searching for rhythm his designs with a special chant. reminds us of the great harmony of labor.
The weaver
No this
of
song
relates
name.
This
why is
mountain “Throne of Solomon” bears
the
a place of such antiquity.
Janaka, son of
Asoka, had already dedicated here one of the
Seven centuries
temples. secrated
to
Solomon?
Mahadeva.
.
later the .
The mountain
a legend that
.
life
Buddhist
temple was rebuilt and con-
But whence comes the name of
received the
Solomon, desiring
of a sovereign’s
first
name
a respite
of
Solomon from
from the conventions
and from the burdens of
his
court, trans-
ported himself upon a flying carpet to this mountain with his favorite wife.
Here, again,
we come upon
“flying apparatus” possessed by is
in
Solomon.
Turkestan and in Persia.
[
72
]
the
A
mention of that
similar
mountain
PIR-PANZ AL It
is
not alone the mountain “Throne of Solomon” which In the valley
transports the consciousness into biblical spheres.
reverenced in a special manner.
of Sindh the prophet Elijah
is
Most
how
stirring are the legends;
saves fishermen
and
the prophet sitting in his cave
Under
travelers.
various aspects, at times
benevolent, at times stormy, the prophet appears to defend the
works of by
many
Purple
justice
and
Mohammedans and Hindus,
piety.
divided
differences, equally reverence the prophet Elijah.
Moslem
will always recall
iris
covered with these flowers.
have blossomed,
lilies
But there
cemeteries. also
is
joy.
They are The lilacs
nodding and the wild
of the valley are
cherry tree glistens.
After the “miniature design” of rests before the
modern Kashmir,
Martand and Avantipur.
ruins of
the ninth and tenth centuries have flowered.
One
ground of the sapphire mighty
massed hillocks conceal of the
may
might of Asia
be noted upon
its
the
back-
Himalayas, have stood
are but partly revealed.
entire palaces
and
cities.
The sloping, The spectacle
Gleams of
not yet revealed.
is
also,
Here the solemn
feels also that here, against the
foothills of the
They
structures.
Here,
Romanesque merges with
fantasy of the Asiatic cradle of the
joyous cult of Vishnu.
the eye
fragmentary pages.
it
Loving hands
only will
complete the beautiful realization. •
•
•
•
•
“Hail to Thee, Hakaura, our Horus,
God
of Existence, De-
fender of the Land, bridling the desert by the serpent of His Uraeus, dispatching the
arrow without the aid of the bow,
does the Goddess Sekhmet.
Asians to Third.
flight.”
Two
row without
The
So speaks the
king’s
hymn
in
word would turn
as
the
honor of Senusert the
phrases have a special meaning: “Shooting the ara
bow”
— action at a distance.
“Bridler of the desert
—reminds
one of the most an-
by the serpent of His Uraeus” [
73
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA cient cult of Asia
—the wife and
The
serpent.
snakelike capitals
of the pillars of Asia
and of the Mayans speak of the same
cult of the wise wife.
The
the same tale: In the middle
magic flower
in his hand.
and
of hands, dark
Before the king
is
light,
a
is
a multitude
And
heads.
As
the king of serpents with the
with a veiled head, and to her the
the background to this entire group
which have
of snakes
around
sits
tells
The king is endowed with two pairs because wisdom has a complete armor.
woman
king entrusts wisdom.
Kashmir
old plaque found in
image
central
this
risen
and united
is
their
procession
a
of
individual figures of rulers each wearing around his neck the
image of the like
and animal-like
ancient sign.
This sign of wisdom forces the human-
serpent.
and help the owners of the
djins to serve
Into a long trumpet far-off the djins transmit mes-
Djins bring flowers for the adornment of
sages.
life.
the guise of animals, transport themselves through the
They
bring caskets with gems.
So
nels.
is
air.
They
are present in the guise of senti-
preserved the ancient symbol of wisdom.
“Gulidjan-Marda”
—thus
Djins, in
—“Illo-Aladin-Shabasha”—“Illaila-Suleiman” Oars with corded blades
the rowers call to each other.
cut the yellow waters, •
•
•
•
•
Modern Srinagar is not more than one hundred and fifty to two hundred years old. Of the ancient “City of the Sun” nothing remains. The old mosque remains only as a shell. In the ugly
rivets of the
“wharf” are seen
excellent stones of the ninth
traces of the reliefs of the
and eleventh
separate fragments; nothing binds
centuries.
them with
There are
the dirty small
houses of the present day.
The
old bridges must soon crumble.
canals of
Kashmir?
hedges
Was
?
this
Who
Who
originated the
lined the roads with so
many
poplar
not done by some of the nomads from Central [
74
]
PIR-PANZAL where winter
Asia,
where canals
necessitates the
needed for irrigating the sands?
are
—the
these shi\ara
light,
gondolalike boats
Along the even bank one
And
the yellow banks
The
river
Vular
Jhelum
is
paths,
and
Where
did
—originate? end of the tow-rope.
travels at the
remind one of the Volga or the
Mississippi.
the nerve of Kashmir.
the largest lake, the most beautiful and
is
the most
For two nights our boat was dangerously driven against
stormy.
We
the clay bank.
working
On
marking of the
there,
this lake
should
were
it
everything
have remained there,
still
not that the “ark” might have cracked. is
Panzal, glimmering with
Toward
so attractive.
To
snows.
its
To
the massive mountains.
the west
is
Pir-
the north and east are
the south stretch the distances of
Srinagar.
Before sunset an astonishing Valhalla
Pir-Panzal,
and
in the
be
still
morning the
up over
rises
eastern mountains are crystal
blue.
Upon
the sandbanks flocks are herding and each horse
visible
upon
the far-off bank, so unusually transparent
Near the
eastern
bank
the ruins of a temple,
is
is
the
is
air.
seen a small island on which stand
and often the
fakirs
The world
meditation are seated there.
and the sadhus
of religion
is
less
in
ap-
parent in Kashmir.
The
details of the
ported into any far,
ruined temple on the island could be trans-
Romanesque
and everywhere sowed the seeds of
ment
of the
women’s caps
instead of red
enamel we •
Around hoopoes
resounds.
•
•
Above
•
•
swallows.
little
On
deck, the
the fields the song of the skylark
In the center of the village
a chapel with a green, tentlike roof.
tains are standing
The adorn-
see red glass inlaid in copper.
strewn with stones, like our northern is
their style.
the Gothic fibula save that
recalls
the boat soar lovely
strut about.
Goths wandered
cathedral, for the
is
a cemetery
zjalnil{.
75
]
hillock
the hillock
Venerable, scrawny plan-
guard over the quietude. [
Upon
—a
Near the
villages
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and “town-sites”
are the remains of temples
in
ruins
—sandy
mounds with their sand-strewn antiquity. Toward evening the rowers commence their drawling songs “like the burla\s.” And packs of dogs pierce the air with their howls. From the far
—
North
distant It is
South one finds the same structure of
to the
amazing! •
•
On
the northeast of
this pass there
a
is
•
•
•
Lake Vular the mountains converge.
kind of compelling power. The
pur, has quite an individual character,
to the mountains, turns the road first
ascent
and when you reach the
lies
gleams white a
new
first
as a
gateway.
summit
up
to
Upon camp. Then on,
rising path.
night
down
into
narrow
Ladak
strip,
afterwards sinking far
and Chitral is
difficult,
Each turbaned
after
are especially guarded.
them.
The Russian words
A
If
then Gilgit and Chitral are
Violet and purple rocks; and
snow
peaks,
rider attracts one’s attention;
is
Each pack of loaded ponies
he not perhaps from the North?
draws one’s eye
pass
still
positively forbidding.
beautifully blue.
first
Here,
site.
along the very edge where the snow
Gilgit
the road toward
the
is
You
Gilgit.
and watch the windings of the
the peak of the very the path
to
In
Banda-
village,
post office you can understand the importance of the
the
life.
significant corner!
sandu\, \araul, samovar, tchai, chapra\,
sudi-sudi, kavarda\, \olpa \*
—and
many
other words, resound
strangely but distinctly in the speech of Kashmir.
The
braided
bark-shoes remind one of other northern paths.
The boatman is preparing a Kashmiri dinner for us. Six cooks arrive. The table is strewn with blue iris. Since morning, except for tea, we have received nothing. Sobra, his brother Ramsana, * Trunk, help, tea-kettle, tea, horse-blanket, here-here, upside down, pointed cap. [
76
]
— ANZ AL
PI R-P
Ibrahim and other unknown brothers and uncles are here
skillful
—and
even perhaps the hundred-year-old grandfather himself
sitting
with his hookah in the kitchen-boat.
themselves over some mystery. the
Finally, at seven in the evening
makes
dinner
mysterious
All are busying
its
Twenty-seven
appearance.
The sum of Almond soup,
courses are served in turn and each has to be tasted. the inventiveness of this sextet of cooks comprises:
Namki
polaw, Mehtee, Tabak Maz, Kabab,
Roogan Yosch,
Kurma, Abgosh, Alubukhar Kurma, Chana Kurma, Marzewangan Kurma, Subzee Kurma, Namki Kabab Akhtabi, Koofta, Koofta Tikea, Dampokhta Kokarpootoo, Kandee Roogan Yosch, Metla polaw, Thula Shoom, Rewash, Methazoont, Metha Thool, Deesee Alu, Plireenee, Thula Halwa Dupiaz,
Batha
—thus
termed
is it
ner
is
possible to is
this apotheosis of tell
them
And how
spices.
that just the ingeniousness of the din-
so foreign to us!
men
Kashmiri singing: Seven with long
sitara.
skilled one, before
and
mutton and
in the center a
Three have
two
saazes.
tables.
woman
in white turbans,
one red-headed,
Further on
At the corner
singer, in blue
sits
the most
two
are
shawl and
singers,
silver brace-
They sing songs of Persia and Arabia; Urdu and Kashmiri songs. And, as in the reliefs of Assyria, the woman raises her forefinger or her left palm or crosses her hands
lets
and
strings of beads.
—
—
upon her temples. Sometimes like a “duckling” she jumps up and softly runs around the circle. The Persian song “Suram” The “Shakhis the song of farewell and eternal remembrance. naz,” the Arabian song:
“The
richest
with him beyond the grave.” all servitors
friends
—
it
The world
extolled him.”
matters not is
naught
how
—and
the Kashmiri song, says:
Or:
And distant
one will not carry
“When
the song of
Urdu
77
runs:
“Two
—will think the same thoughts.
“Thou walkest upon [
wealth
Christ ascended
must depart from
all
his
]
it.”
“Kochur,”
the road but art
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA Thou
not visible to me.
away from me.
man
one
the wine of
behold
already
I
manner
all
of words.
Better
was
and walkest
“If
the
“Kamach,” the Kashmiri song, runs: “They of Christ in
life
Everything depends on God.”
woman,
or
me
gavest
entire
I
see but
world.”
say their praises
He
than sun and
moon.”
And
on
thus,
cord, glorify Christ
and creation
Following them,
the
all
boatmen move
And
and over
in
And
forest.
their
own
ac-
hour of midnight.
until the
turbans and sway as they chant.
whispers of the
Moslems, of
a red carpet, eight
in time with the white
the saazes drone like the
our Confucian Chinese repeats over
And
Tibetan ya\podu, meaning “good.”
Victrola resounds with Rimsky-Korsakoff’s
“Song
then the
of Lei,” sung
by Chaliapin, and the turbans of the Kashmiris nod understand-
There
ing^. the
is
And the entire And what has
“Song of Akbar.”
out the least friction. is
The program
one consciousness!
finishes
with
midnight has passed withbeen mutually understood
accepted with a kindly smile.
Can one change such letters
mawling grimace?
Can one
flesh.
Of
course
it
banality.
One can
were shown the
One can
is
substitute for the smile
not
One can
invoke a whole horror of ugliness. of universal good.
We
sent to the natives by foreigners
which were
shameful questions of the the
of understanding into the
Possibly one can.
vulgarity of ugliness?
shameful
communion
a
difficult.
One can
destroy this feeling
depart with the impress of searing
always go into the darkness of ignorance and
prejudice. •
As
in Sikhim, so in
understanding. thoughts, gesture.
when
One one’s
•
•
•
Kashmir, one
•
is
amazed by the
spiritual
has hardly enough time to crystallize one’s
companion has made
And how many
fine thoughts
the intuition! [
78
]
his
complementary
one can sow by way of
—
PIR-PANZAL Once again rhythmically the rowers call to each other “Amposch-pamposch” “Dazgir-Kashmir” “Shahan-Shah-PadiShah.” And the meaning of these calls is “The land of roses,” “The temple,” “King of Kings,” “Lotos,” “Man,” and “All is
—
—
well.”
.
.
.
*
We
live
on the
•
•
•
•
The storms, continuous, days in succession. The hailstones are the The stars are like candles. And each week
foothills of Pir-Panzal.
blinding, last three size of dove’s eggs.
there are earthquakes.
In Siberia, upon the steep hillocks are similar town-sites girdled
by thundering these dwellings
and high above glimmer the white caps of the
Here
mountains.
Cedar and pine groves austerely guard
torrents.
musk-
are woodpeckers, turtle-doves, orioles,
In just this same way,
deer and mountain-goats.
yellow, unpainted sturdy house.
wdth evergreen, but
if
there
is
If
storm
there .
.
sun,
is
we
live in the
all
is
fragrant
For three days
.
it
thun-
dered and the glare of lightning blinded one cruelly during the
Rings of lightning!
night. hail
The gushing
suddenly blanched the green
The
series
rains
poured down, and
What
hills.
a storm!
“Banners of the East” unfolded:
Conqueror before the spring of
life.
2.
i.
Moses the
Buddha the Leader upon
the summit, surrounded by the glory of the heavens.
the Builder, laboring with his the traveler in exile. elers rise
(Japan).
6.
5.
stood facing
forces.
4.
Confucius the
Just,
Yen-No-Guyo-Dja, Friend of the Trav-
Milarepa, the
comprehending the
who
own
Sergius
3.
One
Who
voices of the Devas.
Mahakala himself.
8.
Hearkened 7.
—
at
sun-
rDorje the Daring,
Sahara the Beneficent
Arrow, never slackening
in
Mohammed upon Mount
Hira (the message of the Archangel
Gabriel).
10.
upon the lake
missions
its
of
benevolence.
9.
Nagarjuna, Conqueror of the Serpent, beholding the vision of the Ruler of the Nagi. [
79
]
11.
Oirot the
ALTAI. HIMALAYA Messenger of the White Burkhan, the legend of those already in the
of Christ.
14.
17. Chalice.
Museum:
Lao-Tze.
18.
15.
12.
The Ancient
In Mongolia there
is
a
Mother of the World.
Tsong-kha-pa.
In
would ascend
moments the high
white paper horses
scatter
horse as a symbol of Buddha, of strength and happiness. these steeds of Valkyrie, the resplendent horses,
out, whirling,
and carrying help
Procopius was wont to
sit
to the
unknown
would
float
stricken ones.
on the Dvina blessing the unknown
and these lamas upon the mountain ridges of Asia
seafarers:
have sent horses to the the
Signs
Padma Sambhava.
custom of great antiquity.
mountain and with conjurations would
And
13.
Serpent.
of national disaster or danger, the lamas
—the
16.
And
Altai.
Unknown
is
In this sending to
far-off stricken ones.
seen the same concern for the general happiness.
Such customs of lamas
This
is
not “sitting beneath
a tree,” nor requests flung into space ; not the
ornamental gestures
of a ritual
—a
;
but a
are precious.
“command”
for help to the far-off stricken ones
heavenly voice demanding that
Two
human
ills
be alleviated.
other touching images must not be forgotten: Mani, the
founder of so-called Manicheism, in the third century was crucified
upon
the gates of the city in Persia for his belief in the
synthesis of teaching
and for
his idea of the
Guru Kambala, gave his head and service and Kambala and horses, in
other one,
—
as a
Commune.
The
symbol of devotion
their essence,
both enter
into the “Banners of the East.”
Manicheism
lived long.
In Italy
existed until the fourteenth century.
itself,
Manicheans, persecuted,
Perhaps
it is
from them
Benozzo Gozzoli adopted the themes of the Pisan
that
frescoes, of
the four encounters of the Prince Siddhartha-Buddha,
which
Hindu
Ruler,
enlightened there
is
his
consciousness.
Instead
a cavalcade of Italian signori.
[80]
of
And
the
in certain Eastern
—
somewhere from the depths
conceptions, as
if
one perceives
the
sumptuous ornate rocks and blankets and the East
sit
What
with
The
it?
is
“Pardus” of
Or
(insignia) of cru-
more
has the
ancient organiza-
believers, penetrated
How many
consciousness of East and West.
How many
sur-
echoes of crusades, about which even
Mani
tion of synthesis, of
his
his gilded horse-
Tamed
upon the coat-of-arms
as
Herri met de Bles dreamt?
festations!
Gozzoli with
behind the saddles, and the turban gracefully
rounds the helmet, saders.
his pine trees;
bearing vivid banners.
staffs
of understanding,
of
fantasy
characteristic
—
and linked the
unexplained mani-
How many
names slandered!
truly
enlightened researches are buried into one heap with the cast-off
Future studies and researches must be undertaken in an
refuse.
unprejudiced
Another
spirit
with an eye only to truth and
and West:
detail linking East
Do
you remember the
Turfan Mother of the World, with the child?
image
justice.
Perhaps Nestori-
Or
ans or Manicheans
left
more
image has remained, transmitted from times
still
correctly, this
more remote.
many
this
The
culable.
Not toward
this
of
concealed the wife is
already incal-
the page of the Bible, not toward the sym-
image point: Continents no longer
molded the beauty
light-bearing essence.
knowledge of
is
antiquity of the symbol
bols of the Kabala, does this
existing have
Kwan Yin—who knows how
Behind them
ages old they are?
and the serpent.
or
Kali,
in the center of Asia.
of the
Mother of the World
Only ignorance
insists
on the lack
antiquity. •
You may wonder how we
•
•
•
•
fare without theaters.
But we have
—only without a stage, in actual Perwith theater — legends about unheard-of peoples;
drama here each day haps a Chinese
life.
perhaps the threatening monologue of the policeman; perhaps the
ill-omened ballet of the Kashmiri merchants [
81
]
Schaitans;
ALTAI-HIMALAYA perhaps the drama of a boat beaten by the waves; perhaps the procession of horses or the peaceful evening songs, or a furioso
Nor does one have to hang frayed curtains, nor must one make up one’s face, when the whole world participates in the mystery of evolution; when renewed understanding triumphantly enters into life, in new creations of uniof hail and earthquake.
versal beauty.
In Mongolia the march was proclaimed by the sending of an
And
arrow to the Prince-noyon. to
Feodor-Tyron
also
came from the •
George and
I
rides
on horses
the arrow which
•
•
•
came
East. •
upon a horse from Yarkand; and from Khotan. My horse has a star;
the Chinese the
Yarkand
horse bears a Chinese brand, the cross within a square of the coat of arms of Tian.
[82]
flying
—a
sign
Part IV
LADAK (i9 2 5) Indra,
Agni and Surya
—
air,
Trimurti-Trinity remains behind.
Vedas, the great Ind, leads us to is
as a greeting
—the
seat,
and the sun!
fire
its
The
ancient Sarasvati of the
snowy
contemplation
motion, unswervingness, impetuosity. unfailing have been the ways of the
The Hindu
sources.
—then
the
Ganges
the Ind suggests
And how
movement
If
alluring
and
of nations through
Hindu-Kush and Pamir!
the
Again
The
a caravan.
Again, days and dates are readily forgotten.
character of the day becomes
or name.
Like the Egyptians
more important than
who named
its
number
the years according
— to their qualities “the year of or “the year of lean crops” —one marks only the quality of the days. Perhaps, the day of the horse—when the mounts through the snowy bridge; the night of a wolf—when the packs stealthily approached the camps; the dawn of the eagle — when the golden eagle with a whir of wings sped upon the tent; the sunset of the —when as battle,”
fell
castle
though sprung from the arose unexpectedly.
fiery
copper peak, the vision of a
In place of a turban, from out the stone
—the
there rose before us the shaggy cap of
castle
way toward
the land
Buddha.
The
qualities of
Buddha
are as follows: Sakya
Blessed;
Saddha
—the
wise
— Sakya the lion; Bhagavat Teacher; Jina — the Conqueror.
one of the clan of Sakya; Sakyasinha
—the
Muni — the
[83]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Thus spoke Buddha are degraded
and
to the zealots
and hypocrites: “Your
One among you walks naked;
ridiculous.
another will not begin to eat from a pitcher or to
two companions or two dishes. Annot accept alms from the house where lives a pregnant
other will
two
platter, or refuses
the table between
sit at
woman
rules
or
vessels
where he encounters and
Some
a dog.
will not eat
from
One
gulp refrain from eating.
at the seventh
One lies naked upon thorned plants or upon cow’s dung. What do you expect, voluntary workers, for your ‘hard’ labors? You await alms and respect from the laity and when you achieve this reward, you not
will
sit
upon
bench or mat.
a
—
become deeply wedded do not
desire to
temporary
to the comforts of the
When
renounce them.
you
see visitors
life
and
approach-
ing from a distance you immediately assume the appearance of
having been discovered offered coarser victuals
yourself
all
in
profound meditation.
you hand them on to
you assume the mask of modesty.
sion;
Not
you are
keeping for
others,
You succumb
the dainty morsels.
When
to vices
and
such,
the true
is
pas-
asceticism.”
It
took Buddha six years to convert Kashyapa.
the fires of altars
which were strange
ness of the set convictions of
Buddha could add whenever beauty,
to
new
scientific
to
him
He
even
lit
before the stubborn-
Kashyapa could be broken, and
teaching the “old authority.”
For
reason and vital enlightenment are
invoked, the “old fortresses” are especially invulnerable.
One
down
preju-
must
realize all the difficulties of
dices, if
it
Buddha
took six years for one
man
in breaking
to absorb the beautiful
simplicity before he could extinguish the useless fire of unnecessary superstitious offerings.
His was the task to to see
how under
live for eighty years constantly teaching;
one’s very eyes the teaching
[84]
was perverted;
to
LADAK realize
how many
rulers
and
priests accepted the teachings
only
new
con-
out of self-interested motive; to foresee the shells of a ventionality already prepared.
He who
.
.
contained within himself the understanding of the
uselessness of power, exclaimed: tion is
.
and benevolence
“Go, oh beggars, carry
In the one word, “beggars,”
to the people.”
The time
contained his complete gospel.
salva-
has
come when from
out the gilding of the idol there stands forth the image of
Buddha, the great intoxication
and
moning men
teacher,
who
preaches against killing, against
This powerful image appears, sum-
excesses.
to a revaluation of values, to labor
and
to achieve-
ment.
Many
times the teaching of
Buddha was
purified, but
again quickly covered with the soot of prejudices. disfigured into a heap of treatises clature.
Why,
it
Its vitality
was
was
and of metaphysical nomen-
then, be astonished
if
there
still
remain erect
the walls of the monastery of Lamayuru, stronghold of the faith of
Bon-po with
birth of
Shaman
its
invocations,
founded long before the
Buddha?
Nevertheless this brought about a healthy realization: they be-
came accustomed the
heralded
to purify the teachings.
Of
course
synods in Rajagriha, Vaisali and
it
was not
Patna which
brought back the teachings to their original simplicity of the
community.
But strong-spirited individual teachers sincerely
tried to reveal again the beautiful
image of the teaching: Atisha,
defeating convention, wrestled with the somber survival of the sorcery of Bon-po.
Ashvagosha, the creator of the entire Ma-
hayana of the north, applied the form of dramatic productions for the sake of conviction
and
visualization.
The bold Nagarjuna
wisdom on Lake Yum Tso from his discourses with Nagi, “King of Serpents.” The Tibetan Orpheus, Milarepa, surreaped
[85]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA rounded by animals, hearkened
Padma Sambhava conquered
mountains.
—powerful Caps.
The
figure,
and
clear
figures
Tsong-kha-pa was beloved of the
active
—who
the forces of nature
by the conventions of the Red
distorted
Yellow Caps.
entire north as founder of the
—solitary
to the prophetic voices of the
And many
others
understood the predicted evolution and
purged the gospel of Buddha from the dust of conventional forms.
Their works, again, were covered by the musty layer of
mechanical
The
ritual.
conventional
mind
of the
“man
of every-
day,” though he accepted the teaching of Buddha, tried to clothe it
with
his
own
prejudiced understanding.
Neither from Alara Kalama, or from Uddaka Ramaputta could
Buddha toward
find reality,
a
saving
The
decision.
could not be
satisfied
reformer,
who
strove
by the misinterpretations
Buddha walked far off to the secret places of the mountains. The legends bring the bold searcher even to Altai and the legend of the White Burkhan is being preserved upon Altai in all its reality. Near the mysterious Uruvela, Buddha approaches the simplest expression of all his attainments. of the Rig-Veda.
—
And on to
the shores of Naranjana he
is
illumined by the decision
pronounce the words concerning general welfare: of the
re-
nunciation of the personal, of the significance of labor for the general well-being, and of the meaning of knowledge. lish a scientific
approach
to religion
was
To
estab-
a true attainment.
To
expose the self-interested priests and Brahmins was the summit of fearlessness.
was
difficult
To
reveal the true levers of hidden
human
forces
beyond expression.
In the conception of the evolution of humanity, the figure of
Buddha, the Enlightened One, takes an unquestionably beautiful place.
[
86
]
LADAK Buddha had
hear bodily the tremor of destruction of his
to
Confucius had to tread the path of
native city, Kapilavastu. exile
from place
Temple
placed in a
ments.
not to be wondered
It is
remember
which he wandered
his cart in
is
together with his works and musical instru-
teachings of Confucius us
And
to place.
the
lies
his teachings:
at,
because at the base of the
same idea
“When
Let
of cooperation.
the hearts of mortals shall be
kindled by love, then the whole world will be as one family. All
men
and the same element.” .
.
“He who
.
.
.
.
man and
of his neighbor.”
“Hypocrisy
is
the
as
one
most hateful
who
in the
daytime appears
as
an
night busies himself with stealing the goods
at .
by virtue
only covers himself by the semblance of
virtue resembles an evil-doer
honest
things,
all
mutual order and union, will appear
of the astonishing
vice.”
one man, and
will in themselves be
.
.
“Beware of those who make themselves the exponents of virtue rather than
its
Be not deceived by
followers.
their scientific argu-
For although they may be understood
ments.
as the expression
of the soul’s convictions, they are nevertheless only the fruits of
a corrupt
mind and
the intellectually corroded impulses of the
heart.
Those who discourse with apparent
mility,
on general well-being, are not always examples of those
virtues.”
.
.
and
art,
in
attire,
steadfastness,
the prescribed virtues.”
.
.
.
.
“The
comes for others a
there
of
righteousness,
goodness, are
arts.
Apply the precepts of
avaricious one, himself being restless, be-
terrifying
dictate thy actions.”
“To
the pursuit
.
“Acquire science and the fine .
propriety,
aversion to flatterers, love of the humble, lack
of greed, prudence,
wisdom.”
on hu-
.
“Temperance, simplicity science
sensitiveness
.
.
and disgusting
object.
Let prudence
.
discriminate between men, whether they be good or evil, is
no
better
way than
to look into the pupil of the eye;
[87]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA because the pupil of the eye cannot conceal the vice which
hidden in the heart.”
“Do to
not
the
let
.
.
.
humble ones
feel
your high position nor display
your equals the preeminence of your merits.”
“There
finally
I
I
.
.
.
nothing which cannot be obtained by persistence.
is
Each day
can bring a basket of earth, and
up
shall raise
“Man must become
mountain.”
a
.
.
if
persist in
I
The laws
of the
.
rents, influencing
and
.
.
impeding
.
.
action of heaven
effects great
.
movements
of constellations are carried out simultaneously without
each other.”
it,
.
the coworker of heaven and earth.”
“All beings nurture each other.
“The
is
and earth
divided into endless cur-
is
each being individually; their general action
transformations
—therein
the greatness of heaven
is
earth.”
“Conscientiousness,
humaneness
and valor
versal qualities; but in order to apply
are
them, sincerity
“The man who has not determined
his destination
three is
uni-
needed.”
cannot be
considered a great man.”
panacea for
“Is there not a
Do
humanity?
all
that exists?
Is this
not love to
not do unto another what you do not wish for
yourself.” “If a
can govern himself, what
man
difficulty
could he en-
counter in governing a state?”
“A
sage
is
firm but not stubborn.”
.
.
.
“Be slow in words and
quick in action.”
“A from
wise one expects
all
from himself; the mediocre one,
all
others.”
“I love the
glow
of virtue
which does not proclaim
loud words and pompous movements.
prides himself
on
his
nonentity, the one desiring freedom excessively, [
88
]
in
Noise and proclamations
are secondary things in the reformation of peoples
“The ignorant one who
itself
”
knowledge, the
men who
return
Museum,
Roerich
JUST
Scries)
East
THE
the
of CONFUCIUS
(Banners
Roerich
Nicholas
by
painting
a From
LADAK to the ancient customs, all are subject to unavoidable misfortunes.”
“An
archer provides an example for a sage.
When
he does
not reach the center of the target he searches for the cause within himself.”
Proclaiming the general well-being, Confucius was compelled
have his cart of
to
Our
hand.
flight ever at
.
.
.
These
old Chinese speaks in whispers about Confucius.
old thoughts seem like the footprints of ancient Chinese travelers,
who
have given us so
much
useful information about India
and
Central Asia.
all
•
If
•
•
•
•
behind the present idol of Buddha
the lofty image of
Buddha
it
is
the Teacher, then
difficult to perceive it is still
more unex-
pected to hear in Tibetan mountains beautiful words about Jesus.
Yet Buddhists preserve the teachings of reverence to Jesus
who
There have been to Egypt.
But
been in India
is it
about the Christ
about a second
visit
too completely that such legends
in the
how many
in the so-called
all
parts of
Apocryphal legends they spread
And
then,
how much
truth
is
veiled
Apocryphal legends!
Many remember is still
so-called
most ancient times.
what
Asia, probably does not realize
life exist in
an immense influence the Nestorians have had in Asia and
of Christ
incredible that after that, he could have
Whoever doubts
?
and lamas pay
passed and taught here.
distinct glimpses
why
Jesus,
the lines
more wonderful
from the book of Notovitch, but
to discover,
on
it
this site, in several variants,
same version of the legend of Issa. The local people know nothing of any published book but they know the legend and
the
with deep reverence they speak of relation still
Issa.
One might wonder what
Moslems, Hindus or Buddhists have with
more
significant to see
how
Issa.
vital are great ideas
they penetrate even the most remote places.
[89]
But
and
it is
how
Never may one
ALTAI-HIMALAYA discover the source of such legends.
But even
from ancient Nestorian Apocrypha,
at present
see the
it is
instructive to
Hindu,
how
relate
preached beside a small pool near the bazaar under a great
Issa tree,
which now no longer
dications
you may
see
how
Legends say that
•
•
working and poor
ones.
regarded.
by the Jewish people
killed
Roman
government.
Teacher
killed the Great
is
•
•
was not
Jesus
but by representatives of the
and the wealthy
In such purely physical in-
exists.
seriously this subject
•
the
they originated
widespread and deep consideration paid to the subject.
significant to hear a local inhabitant, a
It is
if
The path
who
The empire
carried light to
of attainment of light!
Let us hearken to the way in which they speak of Jesus in
which have the estimated antiquity of many
Asia: In the legends centuries,
it
is
related that Issa (Jesus) secretly left his parents
and together with the merchants of Jerusalem turned toward the Indus to become perfected in the highest Teaching. It is
“He
related that,
passed his time in several ancient
of India such as Benares.
All loved
peace with Vaishas and Shudras
him
whom
cities
because Issa dwelt in
he instructed and helped.
“But the Brahmins and Kshatriyas told him that Brahma
for-
womb
and
bade those to approach feet.
who were
The Vaishas were allowed
created out of his
to listen to the
Vedas only on
holidays and the Shudras were forbidden not only to be present at the
reading of the Vedas, but could not even look at them.
“Issa said that tions.
man had
In order to pay
ficed his fellows in
Man demeans
filled the
homage
temples with his abomina-
to metals
board.
stones,
man
sacri-
whom
dwells a spark of the Supreme Spirit.
who
labor by the sweat of their brows, in
those
order to gain the good will of the sluggard set
and
But they
who
who
sits at
the lavishly
deprive their brothers of the
blessing shall be themselves stripped of [
90
]
it.
common
“Vaishas and Shudras were asked what they could perform. the idols.
Do
neighbor.
Help the poor. Sustain
Do
with astonishment and
struck Issa
not consider yourself
bade them ‘Worship not
Do
first.
not humiliate your
Do
the feeble.
no one.
evil to
not covet that which you do not possess and which
is
pos-
But
Issa,
sessed by others.’
“Many, learning of such words, decided forewarned, departed from
to kill Issa.
by night.
this place
“Afterward, Issa went into Nepal and into the Himalaya mountains.”
“
.
.
.
‘Well, perform for us a miracle,’
the Temple.
Then
Issa replied to
appearance from the very day
who
cannot behold them
is
when
demanded
them: ‘Miracles made the world
should
attest his
with one’s
become
a pure
make human because
all is
men should own eyes but
and worthy offerings,
to feel
soul.”
ye,
.
you await that
if
.
it
.
with the heart, and
“Not only
shall
to
you not
Do
not
steal
the goods
would be usurpation from your near one.
may in turn who divert men from
not be cheated.”
Issa said:
the true path and
the people with superstitions and prejudices, of the seeing ones,
life.
but you must not slaughter animals,
not cheat, that you
“Beware,
He
not strive to behold the Eternal
given for the use of man.
of others, because that
Do
created.
power by miracle.”’
“Issa taught that Spirit
was
their
deprived of the greatest gift of
But woe to you, enemies of men, woe unto you,
He
the servitors of
who
who
fill
blind the vision
and who preach subservience
to
material
things.”
Upon
his return to the land of Israel, Issa taught:
“Do
not
be subject to despair; do not desert your homes; do not defile the nobility of your feelings; be patience.
imbued with hope and with
Raise up the fallen and sustain the hungry; succor
the ailing in order that you be entirely pure and just last
day which
I
am
preparing for you.
[9i]
If
upon
that
you would perform
ALTAI-HIMALAYA deeds of benevolence and love, perform them with a generous
And
heart.
there not be in these deeds the hope of gain or
let
any calculations of
The
profit.”
“Then
legends continue thus:
Pilate, ruler of Jerusalem,
gave orders to lay hands upon the preacher
him
Issa
and
to deliver
to the judges, without however, arousing the displeasure
of the people.”
“But
Issa
taught: ‘Do not seek straight paths in darkness,
But gather force and support each other.
possessed by fear.
who
supports his neighbor strengthens himself.
“
tried to revive the laws of
‘I
And
He
you that you do not understand
say unto
I
Moses in the hearts of the people. their true
ing because they do not teach revenge but forgiveness.
meaning
“Then
of these laws
is
distorted.’
mean-
But the
”
the ruler sent to Issa his disguised servants that they
should watch his actions and report to him about his words to the people.” “
‘Thou
just
man,’ said the disguised servant of the ruler of
Jerusalem approaching
Issa,
‘Teach
us,
should
we
fulfill
the will
of Caesar or await the approaching deliverance?’
“But foretell I
Issa,
recognizing the disguised servants,
said,
did not
‘I
unto you that you would be delivered from Caesar; but
said that the soul
which was immersed
in sin
would be
deliv-
ered from sin.’”
“At
this time,
pushed back.
Then
universe; in her
of
that
all
death.
is
Upon
an old
lies
woman
Issa said,
approached the crowd, but was
‘Reverence
Woman, mother
the truth of creation.
good and
She
beautiful.
is
She
is
of the
the foundation
the source of
life
and
her depends the existence of man, because she
She gives birth
the sustenance of his labors.
she watches over your growth.
Bless her.
to
you
Honor
is
in travail,
her.
Defend
her.
Love your wives and honor them, because to-morrow they
shall
be mothers, and
later
—progenitors of a whole [
92
]
race.
Their
LADAK man, soothes the embittered heart and tames the Wife and mother they are the adornments of the uni-
love ennobles
—
beast. verse.’
“
‘As light divides
itself
man good
the gift to divide in
Your
best thoughts
from darkness, intent
must belong
to
so does
woman
from the thought
woman.
possess
of evil.
Gather from them
your moral strength, which you must possess to sustain your
Do not humiliate her, for therein you will humiliate yourselves. And all which you will do to mother, to wife, to widow or to another woman in sorrow — that shall you also do near ones.
for the Spirit.’
“So taught to
make
Issa;
but the ruler Pilate ordered one of his servants
accusation against him.
“Said Issa: ‘Not far hence
when by
the time
is
the Highest
Will the people will become purified and united into one family.’
“And
dignity and teach thy subordinates to live
without
this
thou couldst also have had the means of accusing
an innocent one ?’
Thus
”
the legends of Asia
ennobled and near to
And
Buddha
teachings of Jesus and
But beautiful
expressed so clearly.
Who
will lessen
life ?
And
it
it
is
Asia preserves in
its
not astonishing that the
are leading all nations into
And who
one
shall be
opposed to
is
this idea?
the simplest and most beautiful decision of
Unity of
and of Buddha
And
Jesus, so
that the light-giving idea of unity
is,
the earthly Unity
into the great
weave such an image of
nations.
all
mountains such legends.
family.
‘Why demean thy in deceit when even
then turning to the ruler, he said
lie
all
and
scientifically
The commandments
worlds.
upon one
Sanskrit and of Pali unite
Another version
so easily
is
shelf.
And
merging of Jesus
the signs of ancient
all aspirations.
also speaks about the life of Jesus in Tibet:
“Near Lhasa was a temple of teaching with a wealth of manu[
93
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Jesus
scripts.
was
great sage of
with them.
to acquaint himself
Meng-ste, a
the East, was in this temple.”
all
“Finally Jesus reached a mountain pass and in the chief city of Ladak, Leh, he was joyously accepted by
“And
of the lower class.” in the bazaars (the
gathered
“Not
people
Jesus taught in the monasteries
and
market places); whever the simple people
—there he taught.” from
far
woman whose son had died And in the presence of a multi-
this place lived a
and she brought him
to Jesus.
tude,
hand on the
his
laid
Jesus
And many
healed.
monks and
child,
and the child
rose
brought their children and Jesus laid his
hands upon them, healing them.”
“Among the Ladakis, Jesus passed many days, teaching them. And they loved him and when the time of his departure came they sorrowed as children.” •
•
•
Said Jesus of skilled singers:
power ?
For
in
one short
life
•
•
“Whence
is
their talent
and
their
they could not possibly accumulate
a quality of voice and a knowledge of the laws of harmonies.
Are
these miracles
of natural laws.
molded
?
No, because
Many still
•
•
•
And
they
come
manifestations.”
•
other legends and manuscripts relate of Issa in Asia.
many
•
Jesus
qualities.
more from varied •
After the
things take place as a result
thousands of years ago these people already
harmonies and their
their
again to learn
Still
all
vital
•
•
•
•
conception of general well-being indicated by
and preserved by Buddhists, one cannot but
recall the
words
of Eusebius in his book, “Life of Constantine”: “In order to attach to Christianity greater attraction in the eyes of the nobility the priests adopted the outer garments
were used
in
pagan
cults.”
Every one [
94
]
and adornments which
who knows
the cult of
L AD Mithra can appreciate the Platonist
AK
justice of this
A
remark.
devout neo-
and worshiper of the ancient philosophy, Clement of
Alexandria, taught Christian bishops.
Russian princes perished in the tents of Khans
Ignorance!
for their refusal to reverence the
image of Buddha
—yet
at the
same time the monasteries of Tibet were already preserving the wonderful
lines
the destruction of the
own
Cyril of Alexandria brought about
about Jesus.
woman
Hypatia, but
ascetic
pupil, Cinesius, that the bishopric of
was
it
to her
Ptolemy was offered
even before he accepted baptism. Superstition! to trample
Jerome advised the newly converted Christians
upon the body of
Cynicism!
Pope Leo
X
pagan mother.
their
“How
exclaimed,
useful to us
is
this
allegory of Christ!”
It
should not be forgotten that Origen,
who knew
the
mean-
ing of the ancient mysteries and understood the true significance of the teaching of Jesus, even he could speak in the
“The Acts”: “And
all
the believers were together and
everything in united possession.
and
And
all
properties
words of
And
were distributed
which were
the estates
held sold
to each according to his need.
each day, dwelling unitedly and breaking bread in their
homes, they partook of their food with joy and simplicity of the heart.”
Origen understood
why
this general
and saw profoundly into the sometimes extremely
him
this title;
teacher.
truth.
liberal in
well-being was important
Because of
bestowing the
this,
title
of saint, refused
but even enemies did not refuse to
For he approached the teaching
not fear to speak of
what was evident
[
95
]
to
the Church,
call
scientifically
him.
Origen a
and did
;
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Of what was Origen accused? “Lives of the Saints” thus speaks of him: “Origen, the wonder of his age by reason of the prodigiousness of his mind and the profundity of his erudition, was condemned for heresy in two Alexandrian Councils and, after his death, in the
Council of Constantinople.
think correctly about
many
Origen did not
truths of the Christian Church.
Ex-
pounding the non-gentile teachings of the preexistence of the
soul,
he did not
number
properly upon Christ, believing that a certain
reflect
of spiritual beings of equal worth were created, of
whom
one strove with such flaming love that he became united with
Word and became
the Highest
its
bearer
upon
to the heretical belief in the incarnation of the
God- Word and
the creation of the world, Origen did not rightly the death of Christ by crucifixion, representing
which had
its
nature
is
gifted.
to the acts of natural forces .”
.
.
it
comprehend as
something
He
counterpart in a spiritual world.
spiritual
much
attributed too
Holding
earth.
with which our
—Admirable were the councils which could
speak against the infinite cosmic meaning of matter!
Sergius, Builder of
accept alms.
Food and other
exchange for labor.
The
Communities, forebade articles
his
coworkers to
might be accepted only
Hungering, himself, he offered
in
his labor.
building up of communities and enlightenment alone pre-
occupied
this
remarkable man.
tropolite
and
his refusal to
life as
His refusal of the
wear precious metals appear
natural acts, without any pose.
fatigable labor
;
His
life
Me-
in his
was one of inde-
he chose young, completely unknown coworkers
he preached simplicity, sonal property
office of
as above, so
was not because of
of his realization of the
harm
The refusal of perany command, but because below.
of this idea.
In the ranks of
builders of communities, Sergius retains a great place.
They
are not so
numerous
—these [
96
]
builders of a
life
which
re-
LADAK sponds in
its
inner
meaning
to the future evolution.
And we
should carefully record these names of future illumination, ex-
tending their
One
until our day.
lists
of the great
“You were
Mahatmas
told that our
knowledge was limited
who
system: ergo, as philosophers the
name, we could not
what you termed sort beyond the existence
of India says:
desired to remain worthy of
deny or affirm the existence of
either
a supreme, omnipotent, intelligent limits
Being of some
But
of that solar system.
if
such an
not absolutely impossible, yet, unless the uniformity
is
we
of Nature’s laws breaks at those limits
highly improbable.
Our
or denies, for
doctrine it
and
which
therefore,
we deny God both
We know
there
it
it
is
emphatically the
as regards the solar
knows no compromises.
teaches only that
is
maintain that
we deny most
Nevertheless,
position of agnosticism in this direction
system.
to this solar
Neither affirms
knows
to be the truth,
philosophers and Buddhists.
as
no such thing
in our system
as
God,
either
personal or impersonal.”
Amid
strife
and
in the manifestation of truth,
human
of time ascend the law-givers of
ing leader;
Amos,
upon the
chariots
welfare: Moses, the untir-
the austere; Buddha, lion-conqueror;
fucius, justice of life; Zoroaster,
Con-
flaming poet of the sun; Plato,
transfigured and reflected in his “Shadows”; Blessed Issa, great in the
immortal
Sergius, great teacher fell
and
ascetic.
All walked untiringly;
victim to the persecution of their day;
teachings of general well-being all
Origen, the wise commentator;
sacrifice; solitary
knew
would
all
inevitably
knew come
all
that the to pass;
that each sacrifice for the sake of the general well-being
was but the approach of the way.
[
97
]
—— — ——
!
ALTAI-HI MALAYA On
the mountain they
And
simply.
tell
in the deserts
of these teachings
The
about
listen to
them
and upon the steppes people sing
their daily life about eternity
being.
and
in
and about the same general well-
Tibetans, the Mongols, the Buriats,
all
remember
this happiness. •
And upon what do remember tation of
•
•
the peoples of Asia ponder
White Burkhan
the
Him twenty
are turning to the
•
*
The
?
Altaians
—they even suffered in their expec-
years ago.
Upon
the
summit
of
Herem
they
White Burkhan:
Thou who
dwellest behind white clouds
Behind the blue
skies
Three Kurbustans!
Thou wearing
four tresses
White Burkhan!
Thou
Spirit of Altai
White Burkhan!
Thou
A
peopling within thyself, in gold and
nation,
Thou who Sun
White
Altai!
illuminest the day
— Burkhan!
Thou who illuminest Moon — Burkhan Let
silver,
my
call
the night
be inscribed
Within the book Sudur!
The White Burkhan commands
that the idols be burnt
promises great yield to the people’s lands and pastures. the general well-being will also reach to the Altai.
coming
How
Thus of
is
and
And
so
encampments of
being transfigured the ancient legend about the
Buddha
to Altai.
ponder the people of Asia? [
98
]
The
Buriats are singing:
—
LADAK You will say: Sun stand still! What means its setting? You will say: Century await! What means its aging? You will say: Moon be What means its wane? You will say: Century What means its aging?
still!
await!
You will say: Snow remain! What means its melting? You will say: Elders remain! What means their passing? You will say: Cloud be still! What means its hiding? You will say: Elders remain! What means their passing? Mongols
are singing:
“He who
has no possessions which he
would gather with thoughts of gain; who has naught with which he would not have strength enough to part; who thinks firmly he possesses the lasting and beautiful delight.”
The the
ancient Chinese have preserved the beautiful
Mother of the Sun,
calling her Ruler of the East!
[
99
]
hymn
of
V
Part
LAMAYURU-HEMIS (1925)
Among
the manuscripts in the ancient Chinese watch-towers
were found
dictionaries
and the biographies of famous women.
Such was the modernity of ancient peoples.
When tomed
you already
the beauties of Asia, and are accus-
to all the richness of
astonish you, to
know
and again
its
colors, nevertheless they
your feelings, so that you
elate
again
feel able
accomplish the impossible.
Flies,
mosquitoes,
fleas,
All possible gifts has Kashmir.
earwigs!
departure was not without bloodshed.
Our
of ruffians attacked our caravan
iron rods; seven of our
and began
men were
preserve order with revolvers and
hurt.
Tangmarg
In
to beat our
a
band
men
with
was necessary
It
to
In Ghund, our hostlers
rifles.
fed the horses with poisonous grass; the horses began to shiver
and
finally lay
up and down.
down.
My
is
had
to be
The
made
drivers
fires
walked
and
around the
also
ammu-
A
wildcat crept into the tent under George’s bed.
Khan
(our caravan leader) brought five ragamuffins:
nition box.
“This
entire night they
horse, Mastan, suffered especially,
Sabsa, that of George.
Sattar
The
a special
guard from the
village.
For
in the neighbor-
wandering many Afridi (from Afghan).
hood
are
rob.”
The
ragamuffins slept near the tents.
[100]
They may Nobody came to rob.
LAMAYURU-HEMIS Wet, rainy the wet tents
man came
We
Baltal.
when
had not
yet succeeded in spreading
new
there arose a
A
provocation.
with a report that our people had
police-
moment
at that
destroyed a sanitary post and had seriously insulted the
just
doctor.
Fortunately, the guard at the railway station did not
confirm
this
answer any
We
invention.
evil
The
insults.
again bid our
caravaneers insisted
men
not to
upon our spending
an extra day in Baltal because of their fear of avalanches on
We
Zoji.
discussed, walked, reconnoitered
with hesitation decided to move on. although
The
wind.
There were no avalanches,
always on the edges of the mountain, there
as
Upon
been separate falling stones. icy
on the mountain and
became
fur coats
may have
the pass, as usual,
was an
lighter than gauze!
we gave him cognac. At once, three more “became sick”; and when we gave them laxatives they began to demand the same medicine as we The
had
Balti
gave to the
first
a
stomach ache.
Thoughtlessly,
one. •
•
•
•
•
women were
In the field near Dras remarkably beautiful
working.
They were
of an Arabian type, dressed in black shirts
We
with black bands on their heads.
who came
but were told they were Afridi, tures
thought these were Dards
from Afghan; these are the ones of
to the
whom
summer
pas-
the people are
afraid.
There are
stories of
how
caravans were looted: one Tibetan
Amban
caravan was captured by the
of Sining.
The
other
was
destroyed completely by a Mongolian Ja-lama, who, beginning his
career
as
a
statesman, finished as a feudal
\hoshuns, up to now, are marauding in Tsaidam. •
•
•
[
ioi
•
]
•
bandit.
His
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA There
are stories about the high interest
by the Sinkiang interest,
We
and army
officials
which
is
exacting up to twenty per cent per month.
It is terrible.
encounter the passing caravans: All sorts of people
Dards,
The tongues
Ladakis, Astoris and Yarkandis.
Baltis,
completely different.
It
is
like
Or with
the Rhine
of Kashmir.
It
Transparent, ephemeral,
?
difficult to
is
—beyond,
Further, further
After Zoji
all
flitting is
the beauty
and amber sands.
Kashmir remained behind with
poisonous herbs, cholera and
over a thundering river,
the Tyrol?
imagine oneself in mighty Asia.
to the rocks
changed.
are
an exodus of nations.
Did the ancient Goths not compare Kashmir with
its
money on
All loan
officers.
extorted
insects.
we seemed
all
Crossing the icy bridges
to cross into
another country.
People seem more honest; the streams seem more health-giving;
more
the herbs are
And
the air
of the
first
The
heat.
curative
and the stones are multi-colored.
seems exhilarating.
itself
autumn
frosts.
Mornings are brisk
In the afternoon there
rocks are purple and green of hue.
like rich carpets.
And
is
—
as
a clear dry
Grasses are golden
the recesses of the mountains as well as
the slime of the river-bed and the healing aromatic herbs
Here
are prepared to contribute their gifts.
—
all
verily great decisions
are possible.
Beyond Dras we encounter the
two stone
the road are a stone
horse
?
able that this
rider.
Is this
not a messenger of the
first
Buddhist message.
stelae representing Maitreya.
with the image of a Is this
first
rider not
new world ?
Near
Nearby,
upon
a white
It is
remark-
Buddhist emblem happens to be just the image
of Maitreya.
[102]
LAMA YURU-HEMIS we
In Maulbeck, order.
We
visited a typical
home
Tibetan
climbed up on a slanting ladder
on a
as
of the old
raised bridge.
We found
Within was the house chapel, and an odor of incense. a portly hostess
—a
view, encompassing
the balconies
are peaceful.
door, a girl squeezes out vegetable
the skin of a yak, and her head
a fantasy of sand
Upon
the floor near the
oil for
Behind her
lamps.
crowned by
is
wondrous
a
is
and
the mountains
all
The rooms
formations.
From
widow.
a
is
weighty head-
dress of turquoise.
In Dras
the
is
first
But
sign of Maitreya.
in ancient
Maulbeck,
a gigantic
image of the Coming One powerfully stands beside
the road.
Every traveler must pass by
Two
hands
of far-off worlds.
Two
this rock.
reach toward the sky, like the
summons
hands reach downward
the benediction
know
that Maitreya
like
coming.
is
image that Fa-hsien wrote
Is
it
of earth.
not about this gigantic
in his diaries?
So
it
would seem.
The Monastery, Maulbeck, with two temples and ruins,
crowns the rocks with an unusually heroic chord.
And
precious bronze wedge! is
asleep.
Forgotten
is
the
And
endless
As
a
the country of forgotten heroism
legend of Herodotus about ants
bringing gold from the shore of the Indus.
about this gold.
They
But some remember
Gessar-Khan promises
to
open the gold
upon a certain date to the people who will be worthily able meet the coming tide of Maitreya the age of universal unity
fields
to
—
Buddha
ordained by
Ladaki heads,
and
drivers,
himself.
who
rinse their
are
We
wash
their
mouths before each meal.
resoundingly and joyously.
on the road.
Buddhists,
And my
go merrily.
We
houettes of the rocks.
[103]
hands and
And
they sing
black hostler begins a dance observe the colors and
sil-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Whoever
Lamayuru and Maulbeck knew what was
built
beauty and fearlessness.
Before such expanse, before such decora-
And
tions, Italian cities pale.
such decoration as the
Where
bow
Here
amazing.
only of the
Red
in
one find
Peak,” or the endless
the slopes near the Tibetan
•
•
•
•
Lamayuru,
in this very stronghold not
among
but even Bon-po,
sects
images stands a great image of Maitreya.
Even here did
about 200 years ago.
will
before such true beauty. •
It is
all
Where
sands.
a country equal to these forsaken spots?
lies
Let us be just and
solemn rows of stupas are
castle of “Tiger’s
crowning
ruins of the castles
Kharbu?
these
upon tourmaline
like joyous torches
true
this
It
the
row
of
was placed here
knowledge
penetrate.
Maitreya alone binds firmly the Mahayana and Hinayana including Ceylon. sects.
There
is
In this reverence are united Yellow and
magnificence in
Red
this reverence of the future.
The caravans, meeting, greet each other. They always inquire, “Whence do you come?” They never inquire, “Who are you?” Movement has already effaced personality. Above the caravans sound the calls, “Shabash” (good way ahead) or “Kabarda” (danger, attention).
And
thunderous Indus, there a sweep of sharp stones
truly,
is
on the
steep banks of the yellow,
always danger of a cruel, swift
which can brush the horse
tide,
into the whirl-
pool of the torrent.
Saspul
At
teries.
gigantic giants,
is
an open, merry place. the very road
is
Around
Manjushri and Avalokiteshvara. stela
are
many monas-
a small monastery, and within
image of the seated Maitreya.
an ancient stone
it
On
it
a
the side also stand
In the front temple
is
with the same images, which dates from
the tenth century or earlier.
The lama [104]
of the temple talks with
(LADAK)
Series)
MONASTERY
Maitreya
( LAMAYURU
LAMA YURU-HEMIS knowledge about Maitreya.
This temple has been
little
noticed
in descriptions. •
•
•
•
Maitreya stands as the symbol of the future. perceived the signs of the past. deer, of
we
did
similar images?
recall
stylization,
Why, on The same
We
saw only one
—an
of people, perhaps representing a ritual.
America and Asia a
stretch
semi-grotto where
unknown Basgo
travelers
is
a whimsical
dom
we
had
North
the stones of
technique, the same
Few
are the
archer and several rows
Through
hands to each other. paused for
Where
horses.
and the same reverence for animals.
images.
also
the rocks are images of
mountain goats with twisted horns, of
America; upon Siberian rocks:
human
Upon
But we
rest,
these images,
On
the wall of
the hands of
some
also left the figures of animals.
an ancient monastery upon the sharp
and variegated
line,
cliffs.
without any minuteness,
Such is sel-
seen.
The Ladaki
villages are not ill-smelling.
On
often smells incense, wild mint, sage, apples
We
passed Kalatse.
the contrary, one
and
apricots.
There upon the bridge was nailed the
hand of the “robber,” Sukamir, who attempted to conquer Ladak for Kashmir. A cat had devoured this venal hand and in its place it was found necessary to borrow the hand of a dead lama,
—
lest
the svmbol suffer.
Already missionaries are in Kalatse.
Encampments from Srinagar to Leh: Ganderbal, Kangan, Ghund, Sonamarg, Baltal (Zoji), Matayan, Dras, Kharbu, Kargil, Maulbeck, Tibetan Kharbu, Lamayuru, Nuria, Saspul (Basgo), Nyimu. The last may be omitted if the night-lodging is prepared in Leh.
[105]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Wheat is
does not fear an altitude of 12,000
adaptable as high as 15,000
instead of oats.
A
feet,
and barley
Horses are fed with barley
feet.
certain veterinarian attempted to prove that
barley was very harmful for horses but
Tibet in practice has
all
proved the opposite. •
In the time of
war and
India was increased. Gilgit
is
•
•
•
revolution the trade of Turkestan and
Leh
In
•
the former political inspector of
stationed as special trade agent. •
•
•
•
•
Bearded vultures, white-tailed eagles and European falcons of brownish-gold are perching upon the sapphires and tourmalines of the mountains. *
On New
•
•
•
Year the Tibetans bring
ing greens, because the Tibetan of February. in the fields.
And in Lhasa What then is
•
New
at that
Buddha
to
Year
is
freshly blossom-
beginning
at the
time they prepare for work
there better
and fresher and more
symbolic of striving to offer to Buddha than the fresh seedlings, this first
message of the awakened
life?
Either one must accept what exists in
Of
recourse in personal superstitions.
its
full reality or find
course, reality
But then, one must take the actual living
facts.
is
These
precious. facts will
bring their offering of tender verdure to Buddha; they also will
evoke dreams of the unity of the peoples. the structure of the
new
unions.
They
But these
facts
will give rise to
one can verify
only in the desert beyond the accessible boundaries, outside of the sphere of influence; where there are no slanderers, no
where one thinks
all
afresh
;
where
any outlined regulations.
[
106]
decisions
liars;
do not depend upon
LAMAYURU-HEMIS We are looking upon the inexhaustibly We note where and how were conceived
rich rock formations.
the examples of sym-
Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics with their
bolic images.
One
wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks.
how
perceives
the
forms of imagery blend with the mountain atmosphere.
Just
those forms, thought out in the West, here begin to live
and
become convincing: One may expect the appearance Yin; or
Lhamo
Kuan
of
prepares the element of destruction; or
image of Mahakala may
issue
from the mass of the
the
And
cliff.
how many enchanted stone knights await their liberation! How many enchanted helmets and swords are hidden in the chasms! This
is
not the unlifelike Durandale from Rockamadura.
the real tragedy and achievement of
Gessar
Khan
along the
And
fiery rocks.
an orange mantle,
same
And Bruguma
life.
under a tremendous banyan
a Sanyasin, in all
sits
as in the times of
is
of
Crafty Locke runs
kin to Brunhilde of Siegfried.
is
This
tree, in
ways and manners the
Gautama Buddha.
Over the mountains rings out the “Forging of the Sword” and the “Call of Valkyrie” and the “Magic Fire Music” and the
“Roar of Fafner .” annihilate
I
Wagner.
remember Stravinsky once was ready No,
monies of achievement are not to be destroyed. of
Wagner
also true,
is
Ragtime and
and rings remarkably
fox-trots will not supplant
Tyrolian rocks and in the Villa at Pisa,
with a true enthusiasm and his sweep Asia.
An
Humanity unusual
still
fire in
the exclamation of E.
houette of E.
I.
gradually the
lives
against a fire
And
in the
Wagner.
the music
mountains.
Upon
Wagner became
the
filled
is
fit
for the heights of
Nyimu!
I
was awakened by
by beauty.
the village I.:
har-
realism, these
Igor, this heroic
to
Fire!”
“Fire!
I
awoke and saw
the
sil-
background of undulating bluish flame;
died out.
It
appears that E.
[107]
I.
approached
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The
the bed and touched the blanket. flashed up.
less,
E.
the flame spread
The
tried to extinguish
more and more
ceased as
fire
I.
it
bluish flame,
strongly.
it
warm, odor-
with her hands but
Then
she called me.
began, without leaving the slightest trace
on anything. Unforgettable was this leaping flame, unconsuming and vivid. The tent was entirely illumined. As always during phenomena, only afterwards we could
talk over all the unusual
details of this fire.
Dr. Francke relates the words of his Tibetan fellow traveler at the source of the Indus, in view of certain heights: “Behind
them
Ba-yul, the country of
lies
tall
Only highly
beings.
veloped people can find out something about the Ba-yul.
But
a simple
if
man
de-
in this
life
approaches the snowy boundaries
he sometimes hears only voices incomprehensible to him.”
A
Ladaki song:
Through
Hindu word?
the gates of the east entered the
way of the sacred kingdom erects the gates of
Say, did you pass by
The
Persian
Did you
The
the south.
them?
pass through
celestial
message of China opens to us the western
How
did you pass the
And
the gates of the north belong to Gessar
How
way
The
way
did you pass the
Did you east
of the Chinese sign
way
gates.
?
Khan.
of the sword stroke?
pass the gates leading to Lhasa,
where
lies
the
of the seekers of truth?
—the
gates of India.
There, hallowing the sacred
word and custom, we rested. The Persian kingdom possesses the
gates of the south.
There we revered the border of the noble
The
Faith.
celestial
ones.
message of China opened to us the western
gates. [
108]
LAMA YURU-HEMIS Affirming the dates
The gates to By the clash
And
it
gave us happiness.
the warrior, Gessar, are on the north.
we
of swords
passed these nations.
through the gates of Lhasa, seeking for truth,
We
passed, testing in silence our spirit.
The geographical
oddities of the song evidently result
from the
accumulations of different races.
Another beautiful Ladaki song:
One is visited by wisdom and one is only an onlooker. Some can achieve wholly naught, therefore one must
test
himself here.
But
to
him who
already comes with wisdom, there
is
spe-
cial bliss.
Does the High One need the wisdom of nine signs ?
And
does the mediocre one need the same?
Are you coming
as friend of
high
estate or
desire a purse?
Did you come without
Do
threats
?
you wish the covenant of friendship?
There are three kinds of enemies. There are three kinds of
friends.
Would you enumerate them? There are three enemies:
An enemy who induces sickness, An enemy who hates the spirit, An enemy who avenges in bloodshed.
We did not come as enemies, We are friend to you. We name three friends: Our
Liberator Buddha,
[109]
do you only
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The union of a harmonious family, The union of love and blood. Here
are the three friends.
Verily,
it
is
so.
•
We
•
•
•
book of Claude Bragdon, “Epi-
recall the beautiful little
We
sodes of an Unwritten History.” several
more
episodes.
All that he does
It
is
so sincere
is
•
him with
could furnish
always pleasant to meet Bragdon.
and
fine.
Pay attention to the blending of Kuan Yin, Aryabalo Gessar
kiteshvara.
insists
upon the
structure
—Avalo-
of the
temple,
Aryabalo.
The name
of
Gessar
has
reached
as
far
as
the
Volga
site
of the
(Astrakhan). •
Gessar
is
•
•
•
•
being identified with Assur.
The temple
of Gessar
Khan was
built
upon the
manifestation of Avalokiteshvara.
The ners,
people of Ordoss place before the house five colored ban-
the colors of the rainbow, awaiting the
— great being “Tengiras Ochirta'i.”
The abbot of the monastery Wu-t’a'i shan in Red Path to Shambhala,” describes many details this
forbidden place.
At the end of
detail, to the effect that the traveler
it
there
is
coming
of the
the book, of the
“The
way
into
a characteristic
saw on the very edge of the
safeguarded place, a caravan of Mongols with
salt,
although they
did not suspect the nearness of the dwelling.
A
when he went to by an underground passage. The passage
Buriat lama gives the information that
Shambhala he was
led
sometimes became so narrow that one could hardly push through
[no]
a
LAMA YURU-HEMIS the thoroughbred ram,
which was being
led into the forbidden
place.
Mongolian lamas indicate
several “safeguarded” places in the
There came
boundaries of Khangai and Gobi.
several hurried
messengers from the Himalayas.
Near Kalatse to
name
the
are pointed out
of
many
Gessar Khan:
Saddle of Gessar.
4.
Spinning wheel of Bruguma.
high rock
—a
3.
is
of
5.
—of
are dedicated
Gessar
Bruguma, wife
Khan.
of Gessar.
Castle of Gessar
Khan —
white spot indicates the sign of a door.
On Sumur upon This lion
which
Garuda
i.
Tambourine
2.
places
the rock
is
upon Tibetan and
an image of
a
crowned
lion.
military banners.
Mongols speak about the coming of “Meru.” In the spring in
Ladak
singing and archery.
weave
a festival of Gessar, celebrated with
is
From
the
names
of the songs one
may
a complete garland about Gessar.
Let us remember the names: Gessar the Conqueror; Gessar
and the Treasury of the Giants; The Wisdom of Bruguma; Father and Mother, the All-powerful; The Return of Gessar and Bru-
guma; The Voices of Heaven; The Conjuration of the Arrow; The Four Victories of Gessar; The Prayer of Gessar; Upon the Peak Shrar; Gessar the Ruler of Lightning; The Victory Song of Gessar; Praise to Gessar.
These
titles
alone proclaim the path of folk-consciousness, of
the national dignity and the
dream about the hero of freedom.
Both Ladakis and Mongols await fighters and builders of
They endow them not only with serpentine cunning it
is
to observe the
and the
a leonine courage but with
tirelessness of a stag.
How
growth of the consciousness and
of heroic symbols!
[in]
life.
wondrous its
forging
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA The images upon
the rocks can be ascribed to three periods:
the Neolith, the ancient faith of Bon-po and the superstition of
In the technique of the images themselves one
a later period.
can distinguish the firm, succulent stylization of antiquity and the restrained, sharp line of later drawings.
The name
of
Orion
about Gessar Khan:
is
On
often connected with the narrative
Altai, the
Outch means Orion;
Outch-Sure.
mountain Beluha
is
called
Sure, the dwelling of
Gods;
Sumer and Hindu Sumeru. Upon the mountain Outch-Sure one ascends by a White Khatik. The heavenly bird upon the mountain Outch-Sure has conquered the dragon. Tsagan Ubugun, white old man, is always near to thus correlating to the Mongolian
the Great Bear. •
They
•
•
•
say in the caravan that the
carry special banners
and sing
a
•
Mongolian
soldiers
hymn composed
—
tseriks
by them about
the approach of the time of Shambhala.
From One
border to border, from mouth to mouth.
does not care to give to the local images any ethnographical
or geographical character.
and
Citadels.”
Let them go
as
banners: “Sanctuaries
Let them, by their general tone of heroism and
attainment, themselves speak for this country.
Spitug
is
a powerful monastery, the
teachings of Tsong-kha-pa.
working community.
Here
The abbot
first,
according to the
are not ruins, but a living
of the monastery
workers are learned and strikingly keen men.
and
and
his co-
Before one has
yet completely spoken, they are ready to continue your finished
thought correctly.
In Spitug
lies
knowledge of the prophecies. in
Leh
in a special
the
image of Maitreya and the
In one of the divisions of Spitug
compartment stands [112]
a great
image of Dukar,
LAMAYURU-HEMIS Mother of the World, with numberless with the arrow of
Coming One.
At her
justice.
At her
Maitreya
right, stands
many-armed image
the
left,
eyes of omniscience,
and
—the
of the Ava-
lokiteshvara, this conclave of the Brotherhood of the Great Unity.
One should remember
the correlation of these three symbols.
This correlation has never been remarked upon or explained. In both branches of Spitug, the murals are excellent, with
They have promised
strong tones and feeling of balance. cure for us the same
To
camp came
our
yaks, he
had
just
is
spots
painted these stirring walls.
crossed
Khardong
were Khardong and Sasser easier.
from Yarkand.
riding a missionary
Pass, losing
He
He
a staggeringly hard journey.”
higher was
He
who
His watch had stopped.
days and dates. “It
artist
He
to pro-
all
On
sense of
repeated constantly:
told us that the worst
Pass, while
Karakorum, though
praised highly the people of Turkestan.
informed us that the
Amban
is
already awaiting us and con-
siders us his guests.
The monastery Sheh, laid out. finest
In
seven miles from Leh,
a tremendous, two-storied
it is
mural of any seen by us thus
wonderfully
is
image of Buddha, the
far.
In Trikshe also are the great images of Buddha, Maitreya and
The
Manjushri. see friendly
lamas there.
who, judging by
One must Hemis. of
On
The
and dejection.
black dogs are
together.
his erratic laughter,
faces.
Of
And
We
did not
was not quite normal.
—
let
feels the strange
us go to
atmosphere
have strange fearful
Black ravens
And
at bones.
course, the temple
Buddhism
stupas
Dark banners.
gnawing
simpler.
There was only an old Mongolian lama
approaching one already
—ugly
closes itself.
somewhat
also see the reverse side of
darkness
images
paintings are
fly
above and
the canyon tightly in-
and the houses are
all
huddled
the objects of service are heaped together in dark [
113]
\
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The lamas
corners like pillaged loot.
“Hemis, a big name, but
laughs.
Our guide monastery.” Of course,
are half-literate.
a little
small, not according to size, but to inner meaning.
The only
apparent prejudice and greed.
was
that
upon the neighboring sharp
fine
rocks, at
appeared and, standing long upon the
cliffs,
Here
is
thing about
it
morning, the
stags
turned their heads
to greet the sun.
It is
who left lying down
an old monastery founded by a great lama
about Shambhala and these manuscripts are
a
book
below,
out of sight, probably feeding the mice.
Regarding the legends of Jesus
To
denial.
—
our amazement denial
there
first
comes from the
of missionaries.
Then
mentary, reticent
details, difficult to obtain.
slowly,
was a complete
first
by
little
little,
circle
creep in frag-
Finally
it
appears
Ladak have heard and know about
that the old people in
the
legends. •
Such legends about of the
book of Shambhala
•
•
•
and the Book of Shambhala
Jesus
And
the “darkest” place.
•
the figure of the lama
—stands
like
—the
And how many
in dusty corners?
For the Tantrik-lamas have no
them.
It
was necessary
And how fanaticism!
simple
How
How easy to purify is it
difficult to
meaning greatest
of the
it
is
in
compiler
an idol in some
fantastic headgear.
lie
sort of
other relics have perished
to see this other side of
to brush aside this
interest in
Buddhism.
grime and dust of
simple to restore the stirring mural paintings!
and
to cleanse the finely
wrought
statues!
bring the monastic organizations back to the
working
Lion (Sinha)
Nor full
order, according to the teachings of the
—Buddha. •
•
•
[H4]
•
•
LAMAYURU-HEMIS am
“I
the
King
Tibetan garb, approached
who was conquered
Now we
his
tell
means
him we
He
us.
is
and
love his country
and the guest
in a fine, subtle
Red
now
we
so
speak at
We
who
tea,
and
are remark-
speak of the teaching
many
rises
We
observances.
The king
of ancient things, of the finesse of the work.
which
of Ladak,
way, remarks that the Yellow and
almost alike in
us to see his palace,
in
a fine, intellectual face.
is
his people
and honesty.
King
the former
And
are very limited.
man
the slender, slight
His
by Kashmiris.
able for their calmness
Sects are
—thus
Ladak”
of
speak invites
high upon the rocks overlooking
Leh.
We
climb the steep, uncertain
dark crossings. balconies, tains
We
We
staircases.
upon the
pause, rapt in joy,
from which before us spreads the
and sand-mounds.
which lead
tiny doors
We
must bow
pass along the terraces
vista of all
and
moun-
in order to enter the low,
The temple
into the house temple.
dedicated to Dukar, the resplendent Mother of the World.
On
the center again stands her image.
Although the king now nevertheless, before
walls
hang many
in
lives
her right hand
images are fresh
these
of the paintings here
is
finer
flowers.
The
finely colored banners.
In
— Buddha.
summer
Stog, the
is
palace,
On
the
general feeling
than in Sikhim, and one
feels the
great influence of Tashi-lhunpo.
Near the
palace, in a separate temple,
The
image of Maitreya.
placed the gigantic
is
wall painting there
is
very majestic.
Often, the murals of Italy or of Russian churches, were either too detailed or too general in parts.
But here one
is
startled
by
the unusual combination of breadth of understanding of the general parts, is
two
with their richness of
stories
high
—up
the higher floor, the statue
was done
able.
It is as
as
The
detail.
lower
to the waist in the
Image
itself.
Perhaps
an afterthought, but
though the
its
common man [ii5]
figure of Maitreya floor,
and on
this division of the
idea
is
quite remark-
should not perceive
at
ALTAI-HIMALAYA One must
once the entire grandeur of the symbol.
upper way in order to reach the Image
—
ascend the
though of a higher
as
The lower floor is bathed in twilight while above, through the narrow windows without glass, the rays of the bright, allpenetrating sun pour in. And near you are great number of
world.
and the glistening sand and
stupas
fantastic
networks of the
gates. •
The Mongolian lama
•
•
•
•
has arrived and with
of news; they await our arrival in Lhasa.
He
says, all are discussing the prophecies.
and has already traveled from Urga organization of the lamas
We
is
are talking with the
near Darjeeling.
It
him
a
new wave
In monasteries, he
an excellent lama
is
to Ceylon.
How
far this
penetrating everywhere!
lama about what happened
must be recorded:
We
Ghum.
automobile near the monastery
to us
were going in an
Approaching us there
appeared a porte-chaise, carried by four servants in white garments, while the lama himself
garment with
a
crown upon
in a
sat
his head.
ing face, with a small black beard.
remarkably beautiful
He had
a bright,
The automobile had
down, and the lama smiled and joyously nodded thought that
this
But afterwards chaises,
was the important abbot of
we
to slow
his head.
We
a large monastery.
discovered that lamas are not carried in porte-
nor do they wear crowns
when
Nor do
traveling.
No
lamas in Sikhim appear in such beautiful garments. ever heard of such a
The
welcom-
lama
one
—and a face like his we found nowhere.
chauffeur slowed up the automobile while driving before
the lama,
The
which enabled us sharply
last
flight
of the
to observe his face.
Tashi-Lama had a heroic
character.
Three hundred armed lamas accompanied the visionary refugee.
Each of them, and the Tashi-Lama himself, by the
bridle, because the flight
was hurried
[n6]
led
an extra horse
—and pursuit threat-
LAMA YURU-HEMIS ened them from
message was brought to them,
Lhasan horsemen were hastening
in time, that 500
escape on the
A
all sides.
Nagchu
and the pursuit was cut
off.
in turn-
A
snowstorm
So, full-armed,
amidst an
— the
fulfillment
ing to the side and escaping through a gorge. rose
to cut off
The Tashi-Lama succeeded
Pass.
just
incessant galloping, an historic flight occurred
of the ancient prophecies, so important for the future, took place.
According
to
an eyewitness, the monk-artist Gelong
him from Tashi-lhunpo only
Tashi, the Tashi-Lama took with
Out
the pictures of Shambhala.
two
to
who
told us that
only through Shambhala!
In
of Maitreya are being raised
and
is
on the way, he gave
of them,
well-known Khutukhtas; and here
poche, from the Chumbi,
Champa
many
in
Ladak was Rin-
now
the shortest
way
monasteries the images
restored!
From hand to hand among the local inhabitants the prophecies and new commands are traveling. With excitement they are comparing the dates which have already been prepare and await, await, await.
Some one comes
in the
manuscript of Shambhala.
One must
.
We
ask
him
to bring
coming
of these
structures are vital
of thought
One
is
the
ones, in order to realize
meaning
are connected with the structures of the future.
is
new
it.
of Shambhala.
the dates of events are not a curious oddity for
stance
they
evening and whispers about a
important for them
vitally
.
And
be in these places to understand what occurs!
must look into the eyes
how And
.
fulfilled.
Though
sometimes dust-ridden and perverted,
and
you
stirs
the thought.
realize the
them but these
their sub-
Following the development
dreams and hopes.
And
out of these
fragments has been pieced together the real departure of the
Tashi-Lama
—an
important one.
Three years before frescoes be painted
The new web
his departure, the
on the walls of [
117]
of the world!
Tashi-Lama ordered
his inner
chambers.
that
In these
ALTAI-HIMALAYA frescoes in clear symbols are represented all the
the
Tashi-Lama through various
Throughout Ladak
wanderings of
countries.
are scattered stones with images of a cross,
The most
apparently Druid or Nestorian.
ancient and
gotten country preserves the Druid signs and
now
for-
possible later
all
symbols.
Not
from the
far
called ancient
more than
Dard
site
Buddha stand most
of
Their age
graves.
of course considerably
is
a thousand years.
Three items of information reached us legends of Jesus.
A
one Ladaki
that according to the
official
Hindu
Abbot
of Hemis, there
was
which
Jesus taught.”
(This
and
a pool,
The
invented,
when
“A
Hemis
sat in
Another
said
“I
have heard from
words of the former beside
some new version about
a tree
and
a small pool in
it
nonsensical invention composed by a
(One may ask why
months.”
several
and proofs.)
coincides with other versions
says: “Is
it
not a Nestorian legend?
were many legends and true ones. ing about
to us:
Leh
a tree is
one day about the
in
unheard before.)
missionary says:
who
Pole
ancient tombs
Among them
But missionaries
know
Thus slowly
news begins
noth-
it.”
So the subject to leak out.
is
The
being discussed. chief thing
and the wonderful meaning
is it
the
the unusual depth of the legend
has to the lamas throughout the
entire East.
A
good and
sensitive
Hindu spoke meaningly about
“Why
script of the life of Issa.
Egypt during the time of years of course
in study.
from
sources
do
these sermons lead
[118]
?
Palestine
The
have naturally impressed themselves upon
what
manu-
does one always place Issa in
his absence
were passed
the
?
His young
traces of his learning
his later sermons.
What
is
there in
them
To of
LAMAYURU-HEMIS And why
Egyptian? India?
why
to understand
It is difficult
Buddhism
—of
wandering of
Issa
does one not see traces of the
by caravan path into India and into the region
now
occupied by
Tibet, should be so vehemently denied.”
The
teachings of India were famed far and wide;
Hindu
us even
Appolonius of Tyana and
recall the description of the life of visits to
let
sages.
Another speaker reminds us a slab with an inscribed
that in Syria there
was found
governmental edict about the persecution
of the followers of Jesus as enemies of the government. archaeological find
must be curious
toricity of Jesus the
And how
Teacher.
who deny
for those
first
those
catacombs themselves
does one explain the
who
love
scornfully
to
deny when something
knowledge
enters their consciousness; but then,
into seminaristic scholasticism art.
In what possible
way
and slander
difficult
transformed
is
cultivated as a fine
is
could a recent forgery penetrate into
the consciousness of the whole East?
And where
who could write a long know such an one.
and Tibetan?
Each day the lama
And
There are always
exist.
still
This
the his-
tiny coins used by the early Christians in the catacombs?
the
his
treatise in Pali
rejoices
and astonishes
us.
is
the scientist
We
He
do not
has seen
much and knows so much and is able so keenly to discriminate among the people. Just now he has brought us the information that a name very close to us is mentioned in the most ancient so
There
prophecies.
is
not the slightest bigotry in the lama and
for the defense of the foundations
He
he
is
even ready to take arms.
—
“Do not speak to this man he will babble “And now I had better leave you.” And there
will whisper:
everything.”
.
.
.
is
nothing personal
is
to
move
felt
behind
his motives.
farther!
[U9]
And how
ready he
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Leh is a remarkable site. Here the legends connected the paths of Buddha and Christ. Buddha went through Leh northwards.
communed
Issa
here with the people on his
and cautiously the legends
Secretly
sound them because lamas, above
way from
are guarded.
all
people,
Tibet.
It is difficult
know how
to
to
keep
—and not merely that of tongue but also of inner understanding— can one approach Only by means
silent.
of a
common
One becomes
their significant mysteries.
when he
than yourself.
convinced that every
Even by
educated Gelong knows much. guess
language
agrees or inwardly laughs at you,
How many
one cannot
his eyes
knowing more
ones can
stories these silent
of the
tell
who have found themselves in the most ridicuBut now has come the time of the illumination
passing “savants” lous positions!
of Asia.
Wonderful
Their robes strangely
have the Ladakis.
Often instead of the
Russian Byzantine ornaments.
recall the
fur
voices
slung behind
the
shoulders,
cloth with embroidered designs,
there
which
short
a
is
mantle of
gives the impression of
Their high em-
the ancient corsno (Byzantine mantle-cloak).
broidered hats are like those of Boyars.
In their girdles are
metal depositories for a pen and a pair of reed pipes, and with these latter they
fill
the hours of their
the evening with ringing melodies.
work
in the fields the Ladakis
heads wreaths of barley and flowers. ing joyous sound
Once again came live in his palace.
terraces,
from
here.
the
signs
changed.
the
From
•
King
of Ladak.
this site of the
one must paint a
their
—such ring-
itself!
•
•
•
wear on
the songs
—are like the nature of Ladak •
high
And
During
As
a result
sermons of
series of
all
we
Issa,
are to
from
its
that can be seen
In these high places, purified by winds, occurred of
great
Of
communions.
course
the
places
have
Destructions and constructions succeeded one another. [
120
]
Museum.
Roerich
Series)
LADAK
(Maitreya
LEH,
Roerich
Nicholas
by
painting
a From
— LAM A YURU-HEMIS The conquerors have brought new accumulations, but the basic The same heavenly frames as silhouette remains unchanged. formerly are crowning the earth tides of
And
sand like a sea congealed.
sweeping up from the earth.
And
— the same glowing
here
is
the
site
of
.
.
The
hewn
old
which
cliffs
.
Buddha.
It is
A
eroded by time.
legend
now
But
the
and rugged stones speak only of destruction.
stones have
in their turn
and the
the deafening winds,
speaks of a “great and very ancient structure.”
abutments of
stars
gone
to the structure of later stupas,
One fact is evident habitation. Not far off is an
have already crumbled.
you stand upon a place of ancient
old village and a sharp-peaked heap of ruins
—remains
of an
ancient fortress merged together like a monolith.
The
days are
Crowds
filled
with our settling in the Ladaki palace.
of people are coming: envoys
chants, Ak-sakal the Elder, Tasildar chief) and, again, the
King
from Lhasa, Tibetan mer-
from Kashmir (the
district
of Ladak.
King Lama came himself. In spite of his poverty he brought with him about ten accompanying lamas and relaFrom the conversation it became apparent that the family tives.
The
old
knows
of the king
of the manuscripts about Issa.
formed us that many Mohammedans would
Then followed
document.
They
also in-
like to possess this
conversation about prophecies con-
nected with Shambhala, about the dates and about that which fills
reality
crowd and
with beauty.
in white kaftans
The bow
King Lama departs and the before him in reverence, simply old
beautifully.
As simply
yesterday in the street did a
woman, walking
the field of stubble, approach and stretch out a
They
are
now
harvesting the golden barley.
[m]
hand of
Rows
out of
greeting.
of people
ALTAI-HIMALAYA with flower wreaths on their heads, carry on their backs sheaves of golden
wheat and sing
stirringly
and joyously, in golden
full-
voiced garlands of song.
And
so
we
castles pale in
which
rises
comparison with the
in
Where have we
chalice
The
of
many-colored
the
upon such ruined
Mehesky
Of
mountains.
course, these are the
are dwelling not the
descendants of Gessar Khan.
mass
Where have we Of course in the
alleys?
—the Moon people.*
Only here
very same towers.
ruins of Italian
this picturesque pile, this
seen such lofty roof-terraces?
previously walked
painting of
Ladaki palace.
in a
live
All Kings of
Mehesky, but
Ladak
trace their
descent from the heroic Gessar Khan.
How
wonderful that George knows
Only without
lects.
spiritual things.
with
clear, true
necessary Tibetan dia-
a translator will people here speak about
Now
one must absorb, with
approach.
Curiosity
is
not
full
knowledge,
Only
fitting.
insistent
knowledge!
love of
•
•
The
all
eighth of September.
sages will miss us here.
•
•
Letters
The
e
from America.
letters traveled for six
Many
mes-
weeks
—but
successfully reached the steamer.
Upon
the walls of the
room chosen
painted vases with many-colored plants. are
all
the symbols of Chintamani
the world.
And
its
the
bedroom walls
stone of the treasure of
big Berendey-like balusters.
are above a high threshold
And
On
dining-room are
the carved pillars, black from age, support the
dusky ceiling with
glass.
—the
as the
Little doors
and the narrow windows are without
before nightfall the
wind blows
* Painting of Roerich, 1915. [
122
]
freely
through the
LAMA YURU-HEMIS passageways.
floor
And upon
Yarkand. bal,
The
is
covered with bright felting from
the lower terrace a black
and the white dog, Amdong,
dog barks
new
are our
—Tum-
fellow travelers.
During the night the wind whistles and the old walls shake.
am
I
painting in the upper chamber which has
the roofs.
all
Its
doors have broad carved casements and the
have intricately frescoed
pillars
ceilings are patterned
before?
Where have “Snowmaiden”
in the
upon
exit
its
Where have
by age.
I
enter and say: “Well, here
is
Chicago
setting.
verily the true
chamber
seen this
Of
these bright colors sparkled? * in the
and dark
Stairs, steps
capitals.
My
course
dear ones
Berendey in
his
own
chamber.”
Berendeyev\a ended sooner than we thought
One must
tarry.
wind approaches. longer.
Karakorum before The way to Shayok is
pass
the
—the
fall
autumn
does not northeast
passable only a
Moreover, the people already have taken the bridges
apart for fuel, and the water has risen to the height of a
There remains the path through the Khardong and Sasser
Many
man.
passes.
varied imperative considerations cause us to hasten the date
of departure.
Hence with
With
a large caravan one
becomes a
subject.
mules and yaks, with rams and with
horses, with
—
we go on the old trail but with the signs of new possibiliwe will walk upon the mountains. And then down to the
dogs, ties,
week
deserts.
Is it
possible to descend
element of the sand
is
also
But the
beckoning and the desert nights and
And
sunrises are also glowing.
from the mountains?
in this
glimmer of beauty
lies
the
whole conception and hope.
Karakorum
—the black
throne.
Beyond
lies
China
—again the
old patrimony of Buddha.
*
Snowmaiden
in Roerich’s setting for the [
123
]
Chicago Opera Co., 1921.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA On
a red steed, unbridled,
with flaming banner, rushes the
Great Rider, in armor and blowing upon the sacred conch-shell.
From him sengers
are darting tongues of flame
—birds.
Behind him
and the White Tara send
lie
the mountains
the gathering of the Great Lamas.
in
is
held
Beneath him are the guardians
as the
symbols of the last
site.
This
day of our
Ladak.
In the courtyard they complete the loading of the yaks. are
mes-
Snows
exultingly
ancient Tibetan picture was brought to us on the life
fly
—Beluha.
Above him
blessings.
and herds of domestic animals
and before him
now
setting out!
And
the day
is
We
sparkling.
September
18th.
Part VI
LEH—KARAKORUM— KHOTAN (1925)
September 18th
At
last
one can
finally leave all of
Kashmir’s falseness and
dirt.
One can forget half-ruined Srinagar. One can forget the attack made on our caravan by armed bandits. The Moravian mission in
Leh has some
strange restrictions and informs us of
sent to rent us one of
ment
to
houses on condition that
do no “Religious,
one could explain etc.
its
just
And who
had.
No
what meaning the mysterious semi and
could pledge himself not to exceed the in-
We
along without the headquarters of the mission
Only
con-
sign an agree-
semi-religious, etc., propaganda.”
comprehensible limit of semi and etc.?
Only
the Ladaki King.
I
its
in the
were able
— in
to get
the Palace of
mountains does one
feel safe.
in the desert passes ignorance does not reach one.
September igth
We
learned
how
widespread are the legends about
Issa.
It is
the substance of these legends.
The
important only to
know
sermons related
them, of unity, of the significance of
and
all
for us.
in
the indications about Buddhism, are so remarkably timely
Lamas know
the significance of these legends.
why do people resent and knows how to slander the
so-called
that
many
basically true than
of the
many
so-called official
“Apocrypha.”
But
who
“Apocrypha”
documents?
[125]
can
And
Every one
slander these legends?
does not need a high intelligence. nize
woman
For slander fail
are
to recogfar
more
The Kraledvorsky
ALTAI-HTMALAYA manuscript which was accepted by every one happened to be a forgery
—while
many genuine documents do
consciousness.
one’s
It
enough
is
Evangel of the Ebionites.
It is better,
on the
legends of
“the best of
Issa,
human
contemporary consciousness
to
is
and be astonished how widely
how
persistent
For
we
biography.
this
—and
where
is
it
humanly to recommunicated in the Appreciate
how
close
the substance of these legends the East
all
knows
of
them and
loaded the yaks, horses, mules, donkeys,
an ethnographical museum.
where, according to tradition,
The
We
Issa first taught.
caravaneers are
passed the pool
To
the left remain
Behind them, the place where Buddha,
the prehistoric tombs. the
sons.”
—a complete biblical procession.
like a case of
it
Origen, Jerome
the repetition of them.
is
a long time
sheep, dogs
of
the so-called
instead of useless discussions,
and thoughts which are
facts
as
existence
second century, knows of
Irenaeus, in the
flect
remember
Such authorities
and Epiphany speak about the
now?
to
not enter into any
ancient founder of the Order, went northward through
Khotan.
Farther on, ruins of structures and the garden which
speaks so
much
We
to us.
which on the way, convey
to distant travelers their parting
The
of hope for the future.
with the temple Dukar
passed by stony reliefs of Maitreya,
—the
word
palace remained behind the rock,
many-armed Mother of the World. The last sign from Leh was the farewell of the women of Ladak. They went out upon the road carrying the illumined,
They
blessed milk of yaks.
sprinkled the milk on the fore-
heads of the horses and travelers in order to give them the
power
of yaks, so needed
pery ribs of the glaciers.
Up
to
Khardong, the
on the
steep inclines
and upon the
The women bade us farewell. ascent is easy. The hot sun set, and
toward evening there sprang up a sharp, cold wind. to spread
wind.
slip-
We
had
our camp on a naked Arctic plain, under the cutting
The Kashmiris
very slyly [
would not show the Ladakis
126]
LEH — KARAKORUM-KHOTAN many there
And
of the things.
by reason of the
at twilight,
gale,
was an indescribable confusion.
And
above us stood snow-covered Khardong!
rose unap-
It
proachably.
September 20th
We
ascended the pass on yaks at three o’clock in the morning.
These heavy, woolly animals are truly irreplaceable because of their soft step
broken
and
steadiness; but, of course, only
For a wild yak
in.
is
when
they are
Once, the
entirely untamable.
Tibetans provided unbroken yaks for a Chinese regiment and
immediately three-quarters of the riders were thrown to the
Our
earth. is
majestic but the entire
powerful
had
to
We tately
glacier.
The view from Khardong northern part of Khardong is one steep,
was not
ascent
The
difficult.
descent was tiresome and dangerous.
We
walk and creep! saw how one loaded yak tripped and was slipping
down
smooth
the
rib of the glacier;
of the precipice, the yak, straining his short strong
Many
feet.
itself,
but
precipi-
very edge
at the
down with
clutched
animals and people begin to be
attacked by hemorrhages and headaches along ascents higher than 16,000 feet;
we
on our way even now
is
seen frozen blood.
pass the skeleton of a horse that
well.
After the crossing they
was frozen on Khardong,
tell
had
a caravan of Baltis
screaming.
Even now,
come numb. One has sible to paint.
But beautiful lake.
They
their
Some
hands to
them with snow.
One can imagine how is
say
this
it is
threatening glacier!
it is
their
very deep. [
The
127]
us
all is
comprising about of the
mouths
in the fall, the fingers
to rub
With
us of an entire caravan that
one hundred horses was found frozen.
found frozen holding
fallen.
Already
and
men were as
though
toes soon be-
almost impos-
It is
here during the winter.
Far below
entire path
is
is
a turquoise
strewn with
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Looking back,
gigantic bowlders.
seems
it
though the pass
as
would be impenetrable. September 2 1st After the
of the pass and glacier the road seems
difficulties
After the piercing cold
easy.
—heat and
are hot; the mountains with their are
the beds of the streams.
into the stony masses
And
many
Sometimes
Briar roses
The
in the
sands
Here
stream disappears
a
indicates the
and tamarisks are every-
Nubra River
river itself, in flood tide, can
Now
torrent.
The
rims, recede.
the natives in this valley of the
friendly people.
ponderous
snowy
and only the rumbling tumult
flow of the invisible water.
where.
a vivid sun.
fall, its
current
is
are
become a
divided into
channels of unusually beautiful and intricate design.
We
go beyond the usual encampment.
We
in Territ, in a real Tibetan house.
slept overnight
In
camp there are three parties: Buddhist, Moslem and Chinese. They are not without mutual suspicions of one another. They eat separately. Our old Lun-po happens to be the son of the Elder in Leh and is a big landowner. He has his estates and houses everywhere, in Leh, in Hemis and in Territ and in different places in Changthang. He told us how many monasour
teries
were destroyed during the periods of past
one of his statues
own
houses here are such ruins, full of chips and
and the remains of destroyed books.
Lun-po came
to us only
to the question as to clearly
during the
who
last
days.
he was, he proudly
is
the treasurer in
are sorry that
He
came, and
lifted his eyes
and
He also tells Hemis and knows how many
shown
secreted objects there are not
remain with us and
to
go
his braid
is
really a
to visitors.
Lun-po wants
He wants to cut off my braid!”
to different countries.
learn Russian; he begs only one thing:
And
few
We
pronounced “Bhoti,” meaning Buddhist.
us his brother
to
In
invasions.
“Do
wonderful one [
128]
not
—black
and down
to
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN his knees.
We
No
calmed him.
one will make any attempts
against this symbol of his national pride.
knows and
China the order has been given
that in
that in Tibet
it
show
And
He
are approaching his property
fits
We
—the
lock.
window, and
The sandy
designs of ornaments the swastika is
heavy
a
which
is
pillar
remain
pride he
are painted
and
fruit trees.
There
vivid cornice.
is
a great ring for a
covered with colored
is
to
With
fields
low broad door with
a
floor
middle of the room
A
room.
sleep in a frescoed Tibetan
a broad
walls of
There are many
over with a vivid design.
in a house.
and he begs us not
in the tents but to stay overnight in his house.
shows us the gates (Chorten)
good com-
a
is
panion for the heights and glaciers but hardly
We
queues
Lun-po, in moments of pleasure,
broad and healthy tongue.
a
to cut the
forbidden to show the tongue as a sign
is
of devotion and gratitude. likes to
Apparently he already
felt.
In the
often repeated.
In the
and on
a
wide
pilaster
is
an image of Chintamani, the Treasure of the World.
Every Tibetan
estate
The
the feudal palaces.
strangely reminiscent of the plan of
is
entire building
higher than the height of a man. gates.
Behind the wall
is
The
a square
is
entrance
as into
many
an armor
Beyond
hall.
is
through thick
of outer yard and here
horses are neighing and fires are burning.
go
surrounded by a wall
From
the yard you
the inner courtyard with
it is
doors into the household living quarters.
From there many rooms.
a ladder leads to the second floor,
which has
A
from which you have
similar ladder leads to a
vista of the far
ladder.
Ready
a broad
mountains, of rivers and the entire route.
corner of the roof like a tower.
roof
flat
also
is
And
The
occupied by an elaborately designed chamber to the roof of this
chamber
leads another
for the defense, independently, stand the Tibetan
estates. •
•
•
[
129]
•
•
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA September 22nd It
is
On
morning.
a clear
hedges of briar
roses.
It
the edges of the road are whole
Ahead
an easy journey.
is
golden sands and behind them the blue mountains,
with white caps of early snow. road
is
an old monastery
— Sandoling. Through
our lama?
there, perhaps,
even hot.
It is
We
A
of us are
shades
all
mile from the
decide to enter:
village dwellings,
not
Is
through
stony streams, through rocky masses, dangerous for the horses’
we
feet,
ascend.
We
were not attracted by the lamas in the
monastery; but behind them there
who knows much
one
is
something
invisible
—some
leading Sandoling on the path of the
is
future.
At Sandoling is the final outpost of Buddhism before the desert and therefore we wanted to know: What signs are in this
monastery?
There
is
image glowing with strong of Dukar.
It is
new
a
altar of
There
colors.
Maitreya with a is
an excellent image
pleasant to see the rich collection of banners
Among them
these banners were painted in Ladak.
very colorful ones of various fantastic subjects.
with vivid
silk.
monastery
is
There
shall hasten to find
of our
Lun-po
is
good
a
is
are
All are
The head lama
library.
him.
here
on the road
left
—but
It
we
shall
go
of the
In the
to the frontier.
a long village.
is
farther.
some
trimmed
Again we do not find our lama.
absent.
morning he had
early
new
We
Another house
The banks
of
the streams and the slopes of the mountain are covered with snow-
white soda.
The
strata of the
and brown, indicating the
how
mountain
slopes are blue, crimson
abundance of metals.
vast
It
some-
seems to us that radium must be here, in these blessed,
unexploited regions. •
•
•
•
•
September 23rd
The is
Of course, on maps, the frontier through Karakorum but upon the heights no one
frontier site—Panimikh.
indicated
—
[130]
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN has established the frontiers
Of
human
course,
Panimikh, bridge
as
—and human kind ends in Panimikh
endeavor often extends further, to be expected for our
was
encountered by us in other
were told that
We
from Yarkand.
Beyond
further passage, the
This mysterious repairing of the roads was
fell to pieces.
We
also.
localities.
were stopping two Sahibs
in the village
had hardly had time
to
unfold our tents
they approached us; they were two Swedish missionaries,
when
They
one of them the ailing Germanson.
Germanson
the
of
tells
About
on the road.
places
difficult
return to Stockholm.
Chinese Turkestan he speaks without special enthusiasm. Opposite Panimikh, behind the a red rock, as though glued,
river,
on the background of
a monastery of the
is
Red
Sect.
Against the red background of the mountains, one cannot even
approach
see the
to the
monastery.
It is as
though, to save
itself
from enemies, the monastery had flown up and perched on the unseen ledge.
Far
goes to the right almost touching the
evening,
we
There
a fantasy of
is
Nubra, and our road
to the left flows the
row
of
cliffs.
are nearing the foot of the pass,
mountain masses.
We
So,
toward
Karaul davan.
pause at the very
beginning of the steep ascent.
The evening ends with an unexpected encounter with a Moslem. At the frontier of the desert there proceeds a talk about
Mohammed,
about the domestic
his reverence for
ment
of the
of Jesus
is
woman.
The
life
of the Prophet
and about
talk continues about the
move-
Achmadis, and about legends saying that the tomb
in Srinagar
about the legends of
and the tomb of Mary Issa!
Moslems
in Kashgar.
Again
are especially interested in
these legends.
The moon comes!
rises in conflict
with the bonfires.
Finally the lama
In order to avoid the bridge he was led
through a torrent.
In the mountains, [
131
]
it is
somewhere
so everywhere.
Even
ALTAI-HIMALAYA may
being familiar with thirty ways, you
The lama
first.
go on
will
not
know
the thirty-
the pass by night; they prepare a
lantern and an ax for him. •
«
•
•
«
September 24th Karaul davan, although lower than Khardong, seemed to us
more
What
bowlders along the descent. here, to polish
was a path of good
Many
Here
briars. all
positions,
that the evil smell
and is
skeletons are congealed as
Territ
Horses,
:
in all stages of decomposition.
little
perceived in this cold
jumping
in a
if
Among
was drowned.
position.
the bowlders,
air.
It is
we
Omar-Khan’s horse
squeezed together between the rocks. the fording a sheep
entailed
Near
started the trail of skeletons
like the last leap of the Valkyries.
At
work was
gigantic
and accumulate these heavy bulks!
donkeys, yaks, in It is
masses of enormous
Especially severe are the
difficult.
are fell.
possible that the great
Is it
caravan paths of the past eternally came up against these huge
masses ?
From behind
a stone rises a strange figure in a woolly
and
a lantern.
The moon
rose early
cap, a fur kaftan
Yarkandi.
of the pass successfully. It
This
is
knowledge.
the lama dressed as a
and the lama crossed the comb
The same day
—an unexpected discovery. He
appears that the lama speaks Russian.
of our friends.
When
one spoke Russian in his presence, not a
And
never once showed his knowledge of what
of
it is
clear
how
difficult
knowledge of the lamas.
it
is
Toward
for four hours, although
two hours.
We
we
could
still
we
said in Russian.
the evening
measure
— snow
to interrupt the
and
march
have proceeded boldly
gave in unnecessarily
[132]
in his answers he
to appraise the
wind; the servants and caravaneers decide
for
many
even knows
All the while no one would have suspected such
muscle revealed that he understood.
Once more
Yarkand
—and
we came
right
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN We
into a strip of the first snow. ful glacier,
pass the night near the power-
Two more
amidst endless bowlders.
horses
fell.
September 25th
The approach is
to Sasser Pass
is
a complete Arctic stillness.
The
beautiful spot.
higher than 17,000
and snowpeaks
Glaciers
are broad lines; all the
try to hide
it
There are
Omar-Khan
from
lost
As
us.
two more
we
Overnight
mencing.
numb
human
also this
if
up
There
structure.
Everywhere are the tombs, and our people
could have any effect on us!
The purga
horses.
(blizzard)
are thickly covered with
water in the pitchers freezes.
hands become
most
ornaments and arabesques are discarded.
people become more concentrated.
bodies of animals.
—a
billows of the clouds roll by and open
new, endlessly new, combinations of the cosmic
The
There
feet.
It is
so quickly.
is
snow.
com-
The
impossible to paint because the
Kashmir we Our fur shoes come in
good that
It is
lined our tents with heavy material.
in
handy.
You,
my young
friends,
I
remind you
to provide yourselves
with clothes for heat and especially for cold. quickly and sharply.
Have always
ties.
at
hand
erations are the teeth
Have bandages
colds.
Suddenly you cease a
eat
much.
Do
is
and
for cuts
Very useful
is
The
used in the tea keeps the
chief consid-
also prevention against
All this has already
—pyramidon.
light
your extremi-
of wine on the heights
Tibetan tea; It is
cold approaches
to feel
chest.
bruises.
Any kind
Against headaches
and warms one very well.
which
medicine
and the stomach;
been of use in our caravan. very harmful.
little
The
it
is
One
lips
should not
really a
and nourishing.
is
hot soup
The soda
from painful chapping.
not overfeed the dogs and horses, otherwise bleeding will
begin and you will have to do away with the animal.
path
is
covered with the traces of blood.
The whole One must make sure,
in advance, that the horses have already been [
133
]
on the heights.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Many
remain
social differences are erased; all
Young
ing, equally near to danger.
conditions of the caravan
ways
will
you learn
certain step
the
is
number
you
On
untried horses perish at once.
work-
just people, equally
know
you must
friends,
all
Only upon such
with the elements, where each un-
already an actual death.
There you will forget
There the
and hours.
of days
difficult passes all
in the desert.
life
to fight
such
shine for
stars will
The foundation of all teachings is bitter-sweet, summer suburban camps, but
heavenly runes.
as
Not
fearlessness.
in
on the severe heights, learn keenness of thought and resource-
Not only during
fulness of action.
toriums, but
work
upon
of matter
lectures, in well-heated audi-
the cold glaciers, realize the
and you
beginning of something
Again the piercing
will understand that each still
gale.
more
The
the tent are flapping noisily
significant
fire
—they
and
power end
to
but the
is
beautiful.
The wings
becomes dim.
want
of the
of
fly.
September 2 6th Sasser
davan met us
a pricking
purga had commenced.
gigantic moraine
is
it
We
will be
marked with many bodies
is
Before
severely.
ascend to Sasser
dawn
—
worse.
still
of animals.
The
Our
this
We
completely covered with frozen snow.
hurry to go farther because path
way most
in every
entire
icy trail
along
the edge sometimes narrows completely, only allowing of a horsehoof.
The
through the
from
glaciers.
Gegen had an
Especially dangerous
his horse.
on the greenish
the sun flashes
—
endurable glow.
all
ice.
walked
is
the ascent
Amidst the
the white
six
on the arched is
glaciers, for a
kingdom
slipping
moment,
dazzles with an un-
Straight before us appears a
wondrous
black lake between white shores; and again everything
Beyond the
ered by the opaque purga. [
134
]
hours
attack of bleeding; he fell
Sabsa, George’s horse,
surface of the cap of the glacier. terribly
We
horses proceed by themselves.
glaciers
we
is
little
cov-
proceed
— LEH-KARAKORUM-KHOTAN They
grazing camels.
we
our astonishment,
Finally, to
along an Arctic ridge.
travel as far as the
see
northern foot of Sasser,
and there take over the loads which were transported by horses and yaks through the Sasser. Some of our Ladakis going through the passes for the
time, never have seen camels
first
and timidly they go around these long-bodied
My
horses are snorting. his
pass by Sasser Serai
The
Gurban, looks back, and shaking
threateningly repeats: “Sasseri!
fist,
We
hostler,
curiosities.
—a ruined
Sasseri!”
We
stony square.
stopped
in the beautiful valley beside the current of the river Shayok.
On
the right
By
Turkestan.
the
of
side
and
and
in
some
places even to
dangerous for horses and men.
is
week
the road takes almost a
Unexpectedly,
purple rocks.
It is
the unseen one.
longer. into a
astonishing to
remember
white giants.
we come
One
often disappear.
order to
road to
winter
go with
In September the river reaches the height of one’s
the stream.
way.
the
road one avoids the passes, but one has to
this
cross the river very often,
shoulders,
stream passes
narrow
The it
descended from them.
go the shorter
shall
between two
crevice
what extent
has to pass these places
all
And
We
In addition,
all
signs of a road
more than once
the contours and windings of the road colors are beautiful. is
To
peaks and yellow slopes.
Behind us
strange to realize that
are purple
are the
we have
left
and velvety brown
little
rocks.
islands.
To
right flows the river
and clouds of snowy dust whirl about.
sky
Milky white clouds,
is
not
at rest.
creeping behind Sasser.
Had we
we would have avoided September monsoon of Kashmir Sasser
the
just
—many sharply outlined snowStraight ahead of us — the light gray
the
bed of Shayok, with some reddish and bronze-green
Beyond them
in
like
the
The
heavy threads, are
hurried ahead one day toward
these
snowy
creeps along
persecutions.
The
and pursues us over
mountains, changing from a pouring rain into a severe [
135
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The
purga.
Nature
restlessness of
The
reflected in the animals.
is
horses are kicking; the dogs are snarling. o
•
•
•
•
September 27th
At dawn, everything
again frozen.
is
The
with a deep snow. have to ford Shayok.
Everything
Now
horses are shivering.
Like black
covered
they will
silhouettes, the riders are hurry-
They have succeeded
ing upon the light shore.
is
in finding a
fording place, where the water reaches up only to the stomach of the horse.
After the broad valley
canyon.
It
was formed
blue stream, the
were
full of
we
down
at
once into a narrow
an unusually fantastic way.
in
The
night was cracking.
ice of the
white cracks
dived
—like
pages of runes.
We
pected ascents and turns in narrow passes.
On
ures.
emerged upon
The
No, they
a
varied treas-
—
moving two lonely figures every new this silence. Are these not treasure seekfrom some caravan
are people
and twigs of withered bush, sibility
some inner
reflect
the slopes are
being astonishes one in ers?
red walls
Again, unex-
broad valley surrounded by vari-colored mountains. shining layers in the mountain slopes
In the
of obtaining fuel
for their
fire.
sent for
After
roots
this, all pos-
gone and one must make provision
is
for several days.
Among
the mountains are small,
shores quick
little
few
eagles.
On
stopped unusually early
On
The
the mossy altitude of
Ravens are cawing.
account of the lack of fuel
—by
two
o’clock.
sacks to gather the roots of bushes. zoli,
lakes.
wood-snipes are scurrying.
16,000 feet does not frighten them. are very
muddy
The
As on
There
we
also
people went with
the frescoes of Goz-
appear the groups of faceted purple mountains, cut by
warm
brown hillocks. Light yellow swamp grass covers the deep valley. The black horses stand out with unusual sharpness against They seem immeasurably big. the light yellow background. [136]
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN Here
in the
spaces of Asia originated the tales of the
Giant
the height or the purity of the air
which
Bogatyrs.
Either
makes
proportions bigger, and the rider,
all
behind a
is
who
appears from
The middle-sized Kirghiz dog bear. The scale of measurements
looks like a giant.
on the proportions of
takes is
hill,
it
a
great here.
Mighty must be the streams
with these eroded pebbles.
broad river beds
filled
the beauty of the
Grand Canyon you
Near Karakorum you giants
—
is it
What
feel
some
Reflected in
tragic catastrophe.
long incomprehensible labor as of
feel the
not here that structures of the future were prepared
The
wind!
skin
chapped
is
very difficult with the languages
It is
six
a
mountains to leave such
in the
though
as
?
cut.
—in the caravan one hears
languages absolutely unrelated to each other.
The
provision of hay has disappeared.
hostlers
ate
how,
we
understood that our
up
a
The cook was
deeply offended.
informing us about various significant things.
is
news
is
known
in various countries,
colors.
is
to us
—but
Again we
is
under
are astonished at the
The whole
it
of Asia
wandering organization.
glasses
is
pierced as with roots by
astonishing
It is
fires,
like
glow-worms,
Quicker than by couriers,
And
is
how quickly the And then, these
unexpected
attract
winged news
the
they whisper beside the long pipe.
September It
flies
of different
knowledge of the organi-
news spreads without any mail communications. caravan
instructive to see
being reflected the very same con-
Different countries are as
zation of lamas. this
long time: Finally,
the hay.
of this
ditions.
clear that the
Nazar-bey screamed
The lama
Much
is
have fed their horses with the hay.
something for cook
It
.
.
.
listeners.
to the bazaars.
Understand!
2 8th
a cold night.
Everything
is
firmly frozen.
The
day was woven out of beautiful yellow and red tones. [
137
]
entire
First
we
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
proceeded upon the steep, crumbling slopes of the red gorge. passed the old stony rampart
little
old river bed
along
iridescent, yellow,
Afterwards,
streams.
— the
hillside
Debsang.
we For
;
with cragged walls
like cities
six
hours
long-silenced.
It
like solitary
;
colored with infinite feeling.
week.
I
But the caravaneers are looking
Kashmiri dragon already shows E.
I.
would
has been on horseback
watch-
monuments
never repeated,
a full variety,
is
we went
are like pyra-
towers; like gates to some forbidden countries; like of battles,
green and
crossed to the broad
They
of solemn sand formations.
all sorts
mids of giants
remains of military fortresses
Below were the
or frontier posts.
ultramarine
—the
like to stop here for a at the
sky where the icy
stormy wings.
its
She does not
the ten days.
all
She had never been horseback riding and
like small decisions.
And
here she suddenly went on horseback through Karakorum.
always she injured in
is
valiant
and the
first
one ready.
Kashmir has somehow ceased
Even her knee
to trouble her.
It
is
simply astonishing! In the evening colder.
It
we
would be
reached Debsang davan.
better
Debsang were
if
meaning the Red Throne. At
It
called
became
still
Ulan Korum,
the entrance protrudes a powerful
rock like a red cap.
Be cautious with the mountain streams. They their crystal purity but in the water
rejoice
one with
behind a turn there
may
be
a dead horse or a camel with a bloody jaw. •
•
•
•
•
September 29th
We world.
passed Debsang. It is
disappeared.
We
impossible to call
went out upon the roof of the it
otherwise.
All the peaks have
Before us there are seeming covers as of some
powerful inner domes.
Looking
at these
sandy domes
possible to imagine one’s self at an altitude of 18,000 feet. less spaces.
To
the
left,
far off,
is
[138]
it
is
im-
Limit-
Godwin’s White Peak.
To
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN on the horizon are the masses of Kuen
the right
All
lun.
is
so
The blue sky merges on are domes of a golden hue. like pure white cones. The
variegated and glorious and sweeping.
pure cobalt and the grassless cupolas
And file
the far-off peaks are silhouetted
of the caravan does not disturb the silence of the highest road
of the world.
The
hostler asks:
What
an even surface?
We
it is
is
that here, at such a height
hundred
cases
There
a sharp
The men
is
We
We
wind blowing.
reach
are hurrying
but the crossing has to be
it
was already too dark
we
and
is
Its
when we reached
to sketch or to take photographs.
It is
considered
is
of snow, but this
Karghalik
left until
In
decided to go to Suget davan and Sanju davan
instead of Karghalik. 18,000 feet
toward
Karakorum means Black Throne.
black cap had been seen for several miles, but
the evening
think that
of the expedition were buried in this place.
to-morrow morning.
it
such
there inside?”
of the Fillippi Expedition here.
Karakorum.
it,
is
read a Latin inscription upon a stone, concerning the
camping a
“Why
way we
much
true that Sanju difficult,
also higher than
depending upon the amount
save six days.
water, and
is
some
Besides,
of the
on the way
men complain
to
that
several times a
day they have to go waist-deep in water, and in
October
dangerous.
this
is
September 30th
Karakorum. Again everything with a stinging blizzard.
at times
All that
seven o’clock to
is
The morning
begins
covered with mist.
One
Vaguely the black cap of Kara-
gleams through.
we now
saw yesterday.
frozen.
Everything
cannot sketch nor photograph.
korum
is
see has
nothing in
common
with what
we
Thus we proceed under the sharp wind from two in this rarefied air. The pass itself is broad
but not difficult except for those on foot. [
139
]
One
has the strange
ALTAI-HIMALAYA sensation of feeling breathless even at the slightest
Upon the who pass,
in spite of their breathlessness,
landmark
to
The
crest of the pass
commemorate
descent
is
pyramid of stones
a small
is
movement.
do not forget
—those
to set a
the conquest.
not steep, but the wind becomes stronger.
It is
necessary to cover the face with something, and one remembers the usefulness of Tibetan silk masks for traveling.
day the snow slows
—whole no
down and
panoramas appear
masses of snowy cupolas and cones.
There are even
birds.
At
six o’clock
deep silence
is
we a
a full
We
whole amphitheater of
moon— and
We
cross the highest road of the world, 18,600 feet.
soil!”
and
Our Chinese
October
We posite
some reason shakes
for
meditatively utters: “Chinese his head.
reached the division of the road to Kokyar or Sanju.
Baksun Bulak
is
a
wondrous white mountain
delicate in
its
of the frozen Fjords of
Ladoga
in
powerful.
winter.
The
profiles.
Norway
But here
it
is
—so
fine, so
or the blue fairy-tale of
all
more broad and more
Before us, in the distance, are mountains etched with
road grazed two Tibetan antelopes
—one
raised
The Buddhists did “We have enough food with us.” Some one
gazed long
Op-
bright sun reminded
white outlines, as upon the old Chinese landscapes.
at the caravan.
Right
the confidence of these slender creatures.
donkey with
The
cross
1st
untouched and
a
The There
a sight never seen before.
is
in the
the silence of cold, pure, undefiled nature.
the frontier of China.
me
Around us snowy summits.
pause on a broad river bed.
delicacy of the pearly tones is
beautiful white
During the
a fragrant load of
cinnamon.
people explain that this tired
rest until the
next caravan.
little
head and
not shoot them: else will betray at the
Where
is
road
his
lies
owner ?
donkey has been
There are no wild
[140]
its
Near the
beasts here.
left to
And
— LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN We
traveler will break this special ethic of the caravan.
no
saw loads
left
by some people on
also
They remained
Sasser.
untouched.
October 2nd In the frosty sun of the morning, before our camp, the
Mount
Thus, the Mahatma Ak-
Patos was clearly outlined.
named
Dorje, passing from Tibet,
this
summit
highest
Ridge (Patos phonetically, but Aktag in the
mount
snowy of the
local dialect).
The
stands above the division of road to Karghalik-Yarkand
The path Karghalik-Yarkand
and Karakash-Khotan. there are only
two
lower
is
passes, not very high, but therefore
having
The Karakash-Khotan path is higher and more mountainous. The passes are higher but on the other hand
many
rivers.
shorter.
The mount towers like a cone between the two wings of the white ridge. The lama, upon hearing about it, whispers: “The great teacher
Buddhism
The day on,
is
was not against a
good
teaching.’
started peacefully.
up the gradual
true
Buddhism.
He
said
‘The true
”
We
continued from seven o’clock
incline of Suget davan.
The
ascent
is
almost
many
skeletons.
The
peace of Nature forces you to forget the altitude.
Near the
road
lies
imperceptible and
a
woolly
imperceptibly,
it
is
little
we
not startling to see so
dog
just as
though
reached the Pass
itself.
so
it
was
The
here.
straight
the white
mournful design. spots of the
black sky.
snowy
is
always severe.
and easy way was suddenly
carved out into a powerful, jagged ascent. spread
three o’clock
well always to
It is
ask about the northern side of the Pass; this side
And
By
alive.
In the distance were
purple mountains covered by a somewhat
A
blizzard
commenced; and
dust, pitilessly
resounded the almost bluish-
The path was completely
covered.
Four caravans had assembled, comprising up
[141]
into the bare
to four
hundred
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The
horses.
loaded, experienced mules were
The
followed them.
entire descent
And
and shoving.
bling, gliding
It
we
The
air vibrated
with the
everything crept down, stum-
The people were
was dangerous.
W reached the stopping-point only
astonished at the early snow. at
sent ahead;
was covered with the black
zigzags of the silhouettes of horses. shouts of “Hosh! Hosh!”
first
nine o’clock in the evening, by moonlight.
The Turks
quar-
Nazar-bey wanted to lead us some-
reled with the Buddhists.
The Chinese rushed
him with a whip. The human quarrels affected the animals. The horses began to snort. The affair ended with a fight of the dogs wild Tumbal hurt where
far off.
at
—
Amdong very E.
I.
seriously.
goes on horseback for more than thirteen hours without
dismounting.
It
shows that the usual
conquered by something October
else,
so-called fatigue
may
be
more powerful.
yd
Again, the
piles of stones;
beautiful against the
warm
red and yellow bushes appear, very
white haze of the sands.
willow appears beside the stream.
A
meager
Partridges and hares are seen.
whole, surprisingly few animals.
We
passed by some
old walls transformed into heaps of stone.
The
people are anx-
But
as a
ious to reach the Chinese post,
we
ally
descend.
Kurul or Karaul-Surget.
Already some kind of
flat
Gradu-
walls are seen.
—
Somebody runs out from behind the gates then scurries to hide. Some one comes out to meet us. Amidst the wide hot plain, surrounded by snow mountains, stands the clay square, Kurul.
mers Kuen
lun.
In the fortress are twenty-five soldiers, Sarts
and Kirghiz and one Chinese lator.
hung With
We
saw no arms.
Only
a big single-barreled this
In the distance, enticingly glim-
officer
in the
gun with
and
trans-
narrow room of the
officer
with
a secretary
a cock, like a duck’s head.
instrument one cannot shoot very much.
[142]
LEH-KARAKORUM-KHOTAN Chinese frontier
If Shin-lo, this
how
touched
we were by
would only know
officer here,
his hearty reception!
Isolated in these
mountains, deprived of every means of communication,
far-off
this officer
by
and kindness reminded us of those
his help
of the better China.
It
was
so important to us
—because
we go And we
China with sincere friendship and an open heart!
to
met and
we
said farewell to Shin-lo
most
heartily.
traits
Out
of friendship
even unfolded our tents on the dusty yard of the
The
fort.
people wanted to remain here at least one more day, because the desert has already begun.
They
But we regret some-
rejoice.
thing unrepeatable: Crystals of the summits, will the lace of the desert sands
Other caravans
you?
replace
around the camp-fire.
arrive.
Conversation, smiles, pipes and
They rest.
talk
They
whisper: “In Bhutan, they await the coming soon of Shambhala.”
—“First was
India, then China, afterward Russia
be Shambhala.”
.
.
and now
will
.
Temple under the image of Buddha is an underground lake. Once a year they descend and throw into the lake
“In the boiling
precious stones.”
Thus
is
.
.
.
being discussed a whole saga of beauty.
Camp-fires!
You
stand like banners of the people’s
a mile
from Kurul when we reached the
Fire-flies of the desert!
decisions.
October 4th
We
had not passed
current of the river, Karakash daria, which
means Black
Nefrite.
Along the streams of Karakash were found certain kinds of jade which gave to Khotan its past glory. One of the western gates of the great
Wall of China was even
because through
used to be brought these beloved stones.
it
in these places they
of jade.
The
recalls the best
called the Jade
Gate
Now
do not even remember about the quarrying
color of
Karakash
kinds of jade.
It is
[i43]
daria,
so bluish-green,
itself
a quick river, a joyous river,
ALTAI-HIMALAYA And
a noisy river.
We pass
would think
the native country, not only of jade
is
For several days Karakash daria becomes our
but also of gold. guide.
this
several
—venerated Moslem graves.
Mazars
One
that their semispherical roofs, with a tower in the
middle, were nothing else than the forms of an ancient Buddhist Chorten.
When we
approached the tomb of a
down from
guide jumped
offered his worship.
body
so beautiful a
Fort Shahidula Besides,
in
Kirghiz
beautiful gesture
expect from this clumsy
difficult to
movement. abandoned
is
and with a
his horse
was
It
saint, the
—
it is
these places, cannons
the usual lonely clay square.
made
have never yet
their
appearance and have not threatened the clay walls. It
becomes
The
hot.
and above 18,000
it
altitude
is
not more than 12,000 feet
the yaks are ready for the passage of
We
word Sanju davan. Toward
affects the breathing.
—the northeastern
ning the shamal sprang up time
we were
tains
were hidden; the sky became gray.
it
and moved slowly
encountered.
horses slink
gale.
in the midst of a real sand ptirga.
the sand rose
thing
receive
down and
The
As
For the
The
red
that evefirst
moun-
high, thick pillars,
in a spiral, penetrating every-
The
try to fly into midair.
tents
All color-
turn their backs to the winds.
and only Karakash hastens on
—as
emerald
as
proceeded through the entire day, along the Karakash.
It
ings disappear before.
•
•
•
•
•
October 5th
We is
difficult to
remember how many times we forded
In some places it
it
reached up to the horse’s belly, in other places
was lower than the knees.
was washed away.
We
had
On
one rocky edge the entire
to hurry
and
bowlders in the tumult of the current. stony road.
Two
the river.
cross along separate
Again came
horses of Nazar-bey broke their legs.
where, the shamal of yesterday
left
[i44]
its
trail
traces.
a severe
Every-
Mountains are
— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN All day, a cloud of all-penetrating
covered with a gray haze. dust hangs in the
ing
is
The
changed.
sky has become purple.
ous river glimmers as before with little
first
encampments of
yurtas covered the rock.
Small
fields
The whole
One’s eyes smart.
air.
felts,
color-
Only the
joy-
The
greenish sparks.
its
mountain Kirghiz appeared
the
or stony squares leaning against the
Here
begin.
women
are small Kirghiz
high white head-dresses and red kaftans, some with peaked Kirghiz caps.
If
turesque group
is
soft tones of the
in a bright red kaftan
and
On
child in a light gray cover.
Beside her
Who the
would wish
trails
above the turbulent
river.
We
have not the energy to stop in
On
the neighboring slopes
the
two holds the pegs
spot.
Gradually
a lock torn
horse
fell
we
dim purple Very
steep lie
site
in a
is
camp.
There
and neither of
With difficulty we damage in the luggage.
of the tents.
discover the
sky.
yard permeated with dust.
also difficult to
is
a
dusty caravanserai.
a
is
is
in a green
The camping
either solid rock only, or soft shifting sands
the
is
it
this
man
Egypt?
to paint the Flight to
sandy valley, in the middle of which
is
In her arms
a
is
Above them
kaftan with a red-peaked hat.
woman
a tiny gray donkey, a
high head-dress.
a
pic-
purple background of the sandy
set against the
mountains.
little
A
only the photographs are successful!
in
find a
Here
away; there a ya\htan has been soaked when the
into the river.
Again, the camp-fires.
known woolly
people.
Again there gather some
We
must
say,
harm.
these clumsy strangers did us
sort of
however, that none
The
un-
among
notorious thievery of
the Kirghiz did not touch us.
Again, some of the whispers of the camp-fires: “Burkhan Bullat
(meaning the Sword of Buddha) appears then nothing will withstand
it.”
—“Ulan
at certain
145
]
and
Tserik became terribly
— strong.” “Everything that the enemies do — themselves.” “More than a hundred years [
dates
will
turn
ago two
against scientist
— ALT AI-HI MALAYA Brahmins went
“The go
to
to
Shambhala and
Buddha was
Blessed
— northwards.” “In Abbot
Conqueror the
— One.” “The before the
way
is
Khotan and from
in
there decided
one of the best monasteries of China
the doctor of metaphysics
the head
out toward the north.”
set
a Buriat.”
is
— “On a Kalmuck.”
—“In
the big Monastery
the picture of
from the sword
fire of justice flashes
Buddha
the
of the Blessed
Prophet said that Damascus would be destroyed
new
Thus
era.”
the pilgrims are whispering
We
of Gaya, Sarnath or to Mecca.
meet long
files
of gray-
bearded A\huns and veiled female figures on the road. are hastening before the approaching winter.
They
on the
They
are a speedy
mail.
The day ended with an
invisible
Gigantic clouds of dust like
a sliamal.
transmigration of the peoples.
One must know
Where else is there such extremities of heat and frost? Where else are the winds so unbearable after midday? Where are the rivers so treacherous when they overflow during the floods and where are the sands also this threatening
so pitiless?
image of Asia.
And where
else
is
the gold not
removed from the
Where else are so many skulls gleaming white under sun? The broad hand of Asia!
banks? the
October 6th
Again we make our way along
the Karakash.
We
come
to a
great old Kirghiz cemetery, mazars with the semispherical vaulted roofs.
Low
tombs surrounded with
hanging on the ends.
staffs
and with
horse-tails
Unquestionably these mazars are very
often old Buddhist Chortens.
Beyond
the mazar,
we
leave the
stream of Karakash and begin noticeably to ascend the mountain
The gorge graduAt the left in the yellow sandstone mounally narrows here. They are like the tain we notice caves several stories high. caves of Tun-huang. The natives and caravaneers say that they against the current of a
mountain stream.
[
146]
LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN we recognize The approaches
are old Kirghiz houses, but of course,
here the
remains of a vanishing Buddhism.
to
worn away by
of these caves have been
the elements.
above, like aeries, remain the isolated entrances.
if
It
charac-
is
from Sanju Pass
that these caves are hidden not far
teristic
many High as
they protected themselves by these mountains, from the waves
The
of Islam.
caves
Gurban,
in these regions but
The
them.
An
hostler,
a
Moslem, knows of other similar
somehow
is
caves nevertheless
apparently scornful of
are very
imposing.
immeasurable antiquity emanates from these mountains.
The sandy haze
them seemingly
elevates
And
into the skies.
the mountains, instead of signifying limits and obstacles, tempt
We
us once again upward.
had heard
that there
reach the very bottom of Sanju.
was no snow on the Pass but we had hardly
received this information
when
the Kashmiri dragon overtook
us and everything began to be covered with snow.
We
ing storm.
The caravan
arrives
avalanche of yaks
down
tramples
It is
a pierc-
huddled together, awaiting the belated
are
We
is
dark.
the
in
From
the
Pass,
tents.
black
a
rushing on, and while running, almost
Noise and rumble.
the camp.
Snow and
cold.
But the camp, crouched in the gorge, looks unusually picturesque. Something,
The
as of the paintings of old
fire-light shines
on the bronze
On
tents flutter like birds.
Omarkhan.
Again there
holy mountain Sabur are
many
with the
the rocks
are whispers of the desert:
seen an
unknown
ancient
“Near the
city.
There
To-morrow we must arise and at day-break snow and wind
houses and Chortens.”
stars.
will start
is
Through the dark one yaks. The wings of the is the gigantic shadow of
faces.
horns of the black, invisible
sees the
Bosch or Peter Breughel.
It is
up again
a long
way
—
to assail us.
October 7th Nevertheless, the dragon overtook us during the night. f
147]
Every-
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA thing
We
snow and
covered with
is
The
hurry on.
— 18,300
But
feet.
seventh pass
it
is
Sanju.
is
How
not long.
We are again astonished at them.
ceed!
the chest of
my
We
frozen.
try out the yaks.
It is
the steepest one
clingingly the yaks pro-
The
saddle strap around
We
yak gives away with a snap.
must bind
it
with cords because on the steep descents one strap will not hold.
Only the very summit of Sanju must
skillfully
jump
There the yak
dangerous.
is
between two upper crags
across the crevice
There you must resign yourself
of a bare rock.
Gegen
footedness of the yak.
happily only bruises his leg. the northern side
is
It
might be worse.
amount
a great
down from
falls
We
of snow.
and slipping on the sharp zigzags, we descend
completely merge.
tains
heights, where, although
verberating!
lenge to
cold,
is
it
pity
a
is
There the word,
it
must hasten;
with
best flat
snow moun-
farewell to the
crystally
desert, itself
but
course on
—those
to bid is
Of
It is
In the silvery fog, the It
his yak,
steeply.
not to take mountain sticks with sharp points metallic points are better.
to the sure-
pure and
re-
sounds like a chal-
already transformed into ruins, or not yet thus
all cities
fallen.
Why
does
it
seem so sad
to depart further
Kwen
from
lun,
from the most ancient ridge ?
The encampments
women and
of
Mountain Kirghiz
—one
children are clean
start
again.
The
does not see the dreadful
disfiguring skin diseases.
Down caves.
below in the sandy
From
middle
amassed.
of
the
—
it is all
the
also,,
hillside,
From them
forms: Rhinoceroses, skeletons
some dark hollows
these caves woolly yaks creep out
into prehistoric times; then,
the
inclines are
and transport you
the same thing happened.
yellow
worn-away
hillocks
In are
protrude stone blocks of most fantastic
tigers,
work
dogs and some
of water
[148]
sort of
which has long
enthroned
since flowed
— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN The
away.
One
hillside
does not see
snow
warm
fenced by the
is
purple mountains.
We stopped
in the direction of the desert.
Within,
near an aul comprising nine yurtas.
is
it
They
clean.
bring out melons, watermelons and peaches which they get from
alive
Guma
The mountains
are
with ringing echoes, barking and neighing thunder out
like
Bazaar or the
the Sanju
Bazaar.
The Kirghiz women show
trumpets in the mountain gorges.
their embroideries but they will not sell; each
works
for herself.
October 8th
We
short tranquil passage.
It is a
Sanju
oasis.
there
is
stopped ten miles from the
Isolated yurtas of Kirghiz are scattered about.
Often
one boy driving a whole caravan of camels.
Each day
come
patients
Once more we
what mean the great sands
feel
all-penetrating, searing,
the mountains
with stomach trouble or colds.
to us
become
not more than 7,000
is
not lower than 4,000
A
series of paintings,
What
impeding the breathing.
The
visibly lower.
is
of the desert
feet,
regret;
altitude of the path
while the southern part of the desert
feet.
becomes warmer and warmer.
It
“Maitreya,”
conceived.
is
— camp-fires. “Rinpoche says that now the way — Shambhala— everybody knows that” “Many — buried everywhere” “Three campaigns of the
Again there is
are
only through
prophecies
are
— Mongols” “In
the desert behind Keriya a subterranean river flowed above the
ground”
—“And
of precious
when they dynamited the rock it was all not stones” “And there, where one cannot pass, one
—
can go by underground passages.”
Much
is
related
.
.
.
and the matters of every day
are interwoven
with something great and already predestined.
Much
spoken about underground passages.
natural.
many
castles,
passages
which
But
it
is
are glued to the rocks, long
were constructed
to [
the water,
149
]
is
being
From
underground
and through
these,
ALTAI-HIMALAYA donkeys used
new
Gradually before
to carry the water.
us, rises a
picture of significant lives.
October gth Sanju
—an we
We
oasis.
farewell
said
them.
Of
are probably not worse than these
—but
course,
shall return to
The
them.
whispered.
thing unusual:
rock which
we saw
we
a farewell
On
—the
still
mountain bestowed on us someon the very
last
touch, appeared the same designs that
on the way back
in Dardistan
from
sad to descend
the border of the oasis, just
could
mountains
on us what the heights have
desert cannot bestow
As
course, other it is
Of
mountains.
the
to
to
Ladak.
In the books
about Ladak, these are called Dard designs, although apparently
And
they bring us back to the Neoliths.
here,
in
Turkestan, on the shiny brown masses of rock, are again, silhouettes,
same
the
archers,
cessions of people.
These are
grations of the people. this, that these
kingdom.
And
designs were
ritual dances,
rounds and pro-
verily messengers of the transmi-
there
left
is
some
special
meaning
in
on the border of the mountain
Farewell, mountains!
Groves of poplars and apricot spreads the
as light
same mountain sheep with
the
huge twisted horns and the same
Chinese
kingdom
trees appear,
of the sand.
It
and beyond them
reminds us of Egypt along
the Nile, or of Arabia. It is
time for breakfast and
are galloping is
we want
toward us and beckon us
to stop; but to
come
some
farther.
riders
There
already prepared a dastar\han from the Kirghiz Elders.
bright patterned
felts,
On
picturesquely are spread heaps of melons,
watermelons, pears, eggs, roast chicken and in the center, half of a baked mutton.
looking as
if
Here
are
round yellow cookies, with
holes,
they might have been torn out of a painting by
Peter Aerdsen.
It
reminded us of dear Kluchino, Novgorod,
of our excavations of the Stone [
Age and
150]
of hospitable Efim.
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN And
here are the same kaftans, and beards, and colored girdles
and small caps bordered with wolf fur or beaver.
many
of fact,
of these bearded
and are very pleased
if
they possess
They know almost nothing distribute
among
men know
these people books in
were minus uniforms altogether.
One
will ask,
It
where then
would be good
uniforms of the
soldiers, in
are
but
all
these people were killed by the Kashmiris
No
one was killed by a Ladaki-Buddhist.
over the graves of murdered travelers.
And
special delight in the consciousness that in the
peopled place you are safer and
A
End
cities.
A
inquires
if
less
True,
and Afghans.
then there
is
a
most distant un-
molested than in the
streets
London policeman at the entrance of the you are armed and prepared for danger.
night walk in the suburbs of Montparnasse or Montmartre in
Paris, or in
Hoboken, near
New
York,
is
far
than the paths of Himalaya and Karakorum. of
back and
The Kirghiz recruits Can such an army act at all? Where then are the dangers?
monuments
East
to
Turki about America.
several
Western
objects.
Because in the cemetery in Leh there are
the alluring attacks?
of
words
soldiers they were.
Very ragged
chest.
single Russian
red inscriptions on the entire
imperial times with
a matter
some small Russian
of America.
Thought should be given to this. For the first time we saw Chinese
As
Texas and Arizona
And,
more
And
full of
danger
the tornadoes
— are they not equal to a gale on the heights
?
besides, these dangers of nature are essentially so joyous,
so greatly
awaken
the vigor and purify the consciousness.
exist collectors of caustic
unsafe
exclamations of danger, but the most
bamboo
or rope bridge evokes in you a stubborn resource-
What
a pity, to descend out of the unpeopled spaces
fulness.
to the whirl of the
One
There
stop
human
crowd.
beyond Sanju are
said to be
[i5i]
Buddhist antiquities.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA October ioth
We
emerged into
heroism
is
Here Ladaki
a completely different country.
No
no more.
singing of the Ladakis.
more
are there the garlands of clear
strange that only
It is
among
Ladakis,
the castles on the waterless, courageous
No more are there peaks. No more the
suburgans and \urgans of fearlessness.
The mountains have
did
we
find strong
and agreeable
disappeared into a gray mist. to direct the eye
Here
?
who
sandy.
are peaceful, agricultural slow Turki,
They
in the
marches
Khan and Tamerlane. It is hot. In Sanju bazaar, it From behind the clay walls and fruit-trees are a multi-
tude of faces peeping out,
The
crowd.
and whither
to live,
have forgotten completely that they took part
of Jenghis is
How now
are peaceful, agricultural, ignorant Sarts,
Here
a forgotten oasis.
voices.
colorings
offer us fruit
of fear
full
—a
and hiding
whole
remind one of the Nijni-Novgorod
and roasted mutton.
Fair.
Finally they bring us
a gift of a Kirghiz dog.
and into the Maidan comes riding
Bells ring out official
—again
very kind
a
a Chinese
He
and obliging one.
from the
ished that he did not receive a letter about us
ban of Yarkand but he explains that the Republic has discarded special notifications port.
And we
possess
—which
means Roerich.
Loluchi
a
expectations.
When we
of the help of
all
versity of Peking.
of the Roosevelts,
there
is
a
Are
in
it
of
the Chinese officials
of
hope that China will
fulfill
is
the
first
place
our
received the passport they assured us
governors, of the deputation from the Uni-
The Chinese
who
the present day
must be Aksu.
China
name
official
speaks about the passage
turned toward Yarkand.
He
tells
the ruins of the imperial palace twelve days from Khotan, until
Am-
Chinese pass-
long passport under the
We
higher ranks so obliging?
if
aston-
is
still
Soon we
yields start
antiquities.
We
[152]
which
understand
out on an old Silk Road.
where can be found
us of
Here
antiquities, because these
— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN Khotan
places as well as
are
mentioned
in the literature of three
or four centuries before our present era. deserts, in the oases,
the islands of the
were the strongholds of the
unknown
before the transmigration into erect
On
last
multitudes
Clouds stand
lands.
on the horizon, but these are not the usual clouds
are the plaits of whirling sands.
—these
Probably somewhere there
is
strong buran.
as a
nth
October
Accompanied by
the chirping of birds,
amid the bleating of
the herds, beside the joyous gurgling of the ari\s,
Soon we turned away from the
oasis
we
Sanju.
left
and ascended along the
sandy incline of a river bed and found ourselves in the real
The
desert.
hills
The though interweaving some new
reclined in weak, uncertain silhouettes.
air vibrated
on the horizon
formations.
The
full
as
design of the sand spread out
—
this
is
the
Unencompassable, over which passed the great hordes.
veritable
Jenghis and Tamerlane passed just here and, as of the seas there does not
upon
the waves
remain the trace of a boat, so on the
sands remains no vestige of those movements.
Here
rises
And
the desert.
there is
is
the
whole tenderness, the whole mercilessness of the Kirghiz point to the hazy pink northeast
the great Takla
Makan!
There are buried
cities.
There
—the capital of the former Tokhars. Their manuscripts known to us —but does one know how to pronounce these
Kucha
are
signs?
By
analogies one can read the letters, but the phonetic
indications of the sound has disappeared. inclines of the mountains,
long before
it
Karashahr
was covered, according
historians, the chalice of
Peshawar.
is
And
still
Farther on, upon the
—an ancient place.
There,
to the evidence of
Chinese
Buddha was brought
to
Karashahr from
farther, are the foothills of the heavenly
mountains where dwell the semi-dependent Kalmucks
member
their
history,
their
who
re-
mountains and the pastures and
[i53]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA And
sacred mounts.
Buddha
Blessed
The
The
shield of the sand quivers.
We
carried
away from
the desert
One can from
after a strong buran,
temples and walls of say
which the
eradicable signs are ebbed
Much
inquire about antiquities.
neath the sands.
would you
the great Altai,
lies
reached.
away.
The
further
still
—but
has already been
more remains hidden
still
be-
them only gropingly. And now
find
these depths
unknown
emerge new
By
habitations.
stupas,
the
where the most important things
few
new
signs,
are buried?
inhabitants themselves in speaking are indifferent to the
discoveries.
In the distance you see from afar the herds of wild kulans.
From
a distance, silhouetted, a rider approaches.
approach and
see a
white
and two pomegranates.
This
traveler,
met upon
This
guest.
is
far
he
and spreads out something white.
looks at us, stops, dismounts
We
From
felt
on which are
An unknown
the way.
from an unknown
a dastarkjian
is
two melons
laid
friendly
hand
to a
a veritable enchanted tablecloth, blanching amidst
A
the immeasurable sands.
greeting from the
unknown
—to the
unknown.
We is
reached Sanju, an inhabited dusty farming
a labyrinth of clay walls; already
tetter, a
thing which
we
People
came and took with them all inhabitants had accumulated. China begins
of the old true
—or
tell
We could
us that two Chinese
the Buddhist antiques, If this
be true
—
it
officials
which the
means
that im-
to understand the significance of the study
One must
monuments.
whether these
simply for their
children, one sees
did not see in the mountains.
not find any antiquities.
perial
upon the
There
site.
own
see
if this
did not take
officials
altogether
story
is
away
these things
benefit. •
•
•
we
proceed along the same Silk
•
•
October 12th
From
Sanju to Pialma
[
154
]
Road—
LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN and “silky”
it is
but the road
not only because the silk caravans passed there,
new Old
and iridescent with
milky desert with the
tions of sand; a
The wind
waves.
silk
itself is
of sand
finest designs
whirls the pearly dust and beneath your eyes
mile-posts are standing erect
Behind us
— the
going on
a leave of absence to
number
On
are ringing.
Amban
them
of
a big
overtakes us.
He
—before him he has curious —but very uncouth.
Tun-huang
He
two months.
a journey of
greater
bells
little
gray horse the son of the neighboring
He
the combina-
meshes are created upon the surface of the ground.
lacy
half-destroyed.
is
all
is
some information concerning Khotan, speaks about the antiquities of Tun-huang. In Pialma there are also antiquities from Takla Makan. gives us
long passage.
It is a
past four
—but
longer.
We
proceed quickly from seven to half-
the people say that to-morrow’s road will be
make our
better than in Sanju
and dogs
We
ceaselessly
stop in a fruit orchard
—
where the camels, donkeys,
it
still
infinitely
is
horses, roosters
thundered their choruses through the entire
night. •
•
•
•
•
October 13th
From Pialma to Zawa is about thirty-eight miles. We left before dawn under the sign of Orion. For the first time during the journey, we saw the beloved constellation. Again the desert. Toward ten o’clock it is hot, reddened and searing. The stirrup burns the foot through the boot. What must it be like in summer ? It is not without cause that during the summer they travel by night marches.
At
the right, one sees the blue inclines of
remind us of Santa Fe.
Makan
—
I
The son
On
the
Amban
is
lun
—they
the pink sands of Takla
Arizona.
recall the desert of
of the
left,
Kuen
—sayings
singing Chinese namthars
about Chinese giants: Unexpectedly sharp, with nasal inhala[
155
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA with shouts and the beating of some
tions,
rhythms and
final cadenzas.
It is difficult
sort of inexplicable
to associate this
with
the epos of giants.
Under the necks of the horses the small straps of bells are ringing. Red tassels wave beneath the reins. So, did the great hordes thunder here.
Three doves flew with us
come from
in this desert
;
There in the midst of the desert
thousands of doves pro-
live
Every traveler throws them a
This benevolent spot
is
they
They were messengers they brought an old worshiped mazar and mosque.
?
us to a remarkable place,
tected by legend.
Where could
for a long time.
much
The
worshiped.
bit of corn.
sight of these
countless flocks of doves breathes forth to you a strange surprise.
an unexpected San Marco.
It is
way
sengers pointing out the is
These doves are wayside mes-
to the travelers of the desert.
“one Chinaman killed and
said
ate
It
such a dove and died
immediately.”
The day ends with
the golden grassy steppe with barhhans
which resemble \urgans.
is
the beginning of the
and reminds us of Southern Ukraine.
oasis is
This
sadness
—Amdong
What
could not withstand the desert heat.
Now
quick.
a Finnish dog; he
we
shall carry
him
Amdong
a pity!
was
Tumbal
there remains only black
so woolly
and
—a ferocious
one
In order not to lose this guardian
frightening the population. also
In the evening there
The Lhasan mountain dog
has perished.
reminded us so much of
Khotan
in a palanquin to-morrow. •
•
«
•
•
October 14th
From Zawa we go
to
Khotan.
oasis:
An
They
are harvesting the corn
unbroken
The
entire path
line of villages, small bazaars
horses are performing
all
and
barley.
along an
and gardens.
Again donkeys and
kinds of domestic work.
[156]
is
Again the
LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN women
have covered
They have small
faces.
boyars’ hats
and
on the Byzantine miniatures. Gradually, unnoThere ticeably, we are entering the bazaars of Khotan itself. remains little of the ancient city. Khotan was known for its jade, From all this naught is left. The carpets its rugs and its song. white
are
veils as
modernized; imitations of jade are common; of the songs
there are only the simple
Moslem songs accompanied by
long two-stringed “guitar.”
There now remain the
connected with
maize and dried
still
silk,
cotton,
an unattractive narrow bazaar and dusty
fruits.
alleys
a very
industries
There
is
between the
clay structures.
Ancient Khotan was ten miles away from here, where the village of Yotkan. sites
are those covered
antiquity
We
flow of
ceased.
stop temporarily in the dusty garden square in the center
We
are trying to fight for a house in the suburbs.
not easy to obtain, because apparently
one’s interest not comprehensible to us.
Chinese
officials are
guard of
soldiers
for a long time.
ernor.
now
interesting
The
with mosques and mazars.
from Yotkan has almost
of the city. It is
As often happens, the most
is
and beks.
sentinels comprise a
But they inquire
Visits to the Taotai,
Everywhere we have
with some
In the beginning the
The honorary
decent.
conflicts
it
if
we
Amban and
tea in little saucers
Without delay come the return
will live here
Military
Gov-
with not elab-
The Military Governor has a green coach lined with purple. The Taotai has a two-horsed carriage and each horse has a separate wooden arch above it. The bridles are all Russian. Then comes a luncheon at the Taotai it lasts from two to six. More than forty courses. The victrola jangles out Chinese legends and songs. Of course the rhythms are very complicated
orate sweets.
visits.
—
and the variety of instruments can hardly be reproduced by the noisy records.
At the end
of the luncheon the old official of the [
157
3
ALTAI-HIMALAYA yamen becomes drunk and
wailingly grumbles something, prob-
ably funny.
A
merchant suggests: “Instead of hiring help, buy a
native
dozen
The
girls.
we do
girl
we
anything; however,
human
it
are is
we
accustomed not
it
be astonished at
to
permissible to be astonished at the sale
beings.
Kerim Bek who was stationed with blackguard. The stupidly smiling Amban
be a
But
are listening to
begins!
It
We
house you can paint but outside not.”
He
smiles again
ask
him
more
still
stupidly
and
We
pose of
work
artistic
point out that
same
says the
is
says:
“In the
thing.
We
But he abso-
precisely with the pur-
that the expedition has been sent
The Amban
included in our passport.
and repeats
it
us happens to
inquire the reasons.
to confirm this notification in writing.
lutely refuses.
it is
thirty rupees.”
is
not intend to buy girls although
seriously because
of
good
price of a
and
that
smiles thrice stupidly
his unaccountable prohibition.
The most vivid spot arrival of Tumbal in the
Khotan was the
of our entrance into
The Ladakis brought in his woolly majesty to the bazaar with loud songs. The black creature scowled and sat very important. The crowd rushed to the palanquin.
palanquin but immediately flew away from bazaar howling: considered
it
“A
their
bear!”
All the
officials
it
along the entire
coming
to see us
duty to inquire about the fearful beast and
the Military Governor, wanting to look at our Tibetan animal, for safety’s sake took
George by the hand.
Wonderful guards
are these Tibetan wolfhounds!
October 24th
We
return
home
in the evening
[158]
from the Taotai.
The raven
LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN horses of “the honorary escort”
By moonlight,
our horses.
become
startled
silently stand the
fucian temple with their gongs.
and frighten
towers of the Con-
The gongs have been
silent all
the time.
The road brightly
lies
lies
northward.
Straight ahead,
the Great Bear.
.
.
.
[i59]
low over the horizon,
Part VII
KHOTAN (1925-1926)
Our
Ladakis had intended to go with us to the most
faithful
distant parts.
In
Khotan they soon became somewhat
They wandered through
depressed.
the bazaars; they complained that the
people pulled their braids; they grieved because of the Chinese
They assured us that the Chinese Taotai would order them beaten. They said that the Taotai himself had killed a man. At last the whole sack-garbed crowd of Ladakis came; they officials.
smiled, they shifted about, they crowded close to one another,
they repeated what good yum-\usho (mistress) and yab-\usho (great gentleman),
we were; and
finally
with
tears they
begged
They hinted that if we would go further on our way at once they would remain with us, but that in Khotan it was impossible to live. They left us very touchingly, hurrying through the snowy passes. Although it was only the beginning of November they were held back in Sanju where the crossing had become impassable. We then apprecius to
let
them go home.
ated the advice just after
we had
had, to start as early as possible, because
our passage, there started a continuous blizzard and
the severest frosts.
We
did not even consider their statement that
to live in friends,
was impossible
Khotan; but soon we were convinced that our simple
who had
valiantly
gone through
Karakorum, had become saddened
The
it
strangest
in
all
the skeletons of
Khotan, not without cause.
symptoms began. Not only did they not want
give us a suitable house, but they assured us that [
160]
to
we would have
KHOTAN to live at the bazaar
Taotai to watch us. a suitable
where
Kudai Berdi
to
Bai,
would be more convenient
When we
house in the
which we had
it
ourselves
was
outskirts, there
overcome
made an
for the
effort to find
mass of obstacles
a
Our
fearlessly ourselves.
well-wisher,
and the Afghanistan Aksakal helped us greatly
Amban permitted us to make an month. He signified through this that
to procure the house, but the
agreement only for one
we were undesirable tenants, yet neither would he permit us to leave. The permission to sketch was not given. A repulsive Bek was stationed to watch us. Finally there came a new Amban and the
The
affair
became
Taotai’s child
The
help.
more complicated.
still
became
They asked
ill.
cure was successful and
ingly to thank us.
But
their
all
E.
I.
to
three officials
come and
came seem-
conduct was outrageous.
They
laughed, gesticulated, spat and said that our passport was altogether unauthentic.
They proposed
to insult
Mr. Cheng-lo (the
Chinese Ambassador in Paris) for giving out such a passport. Everything, verily, assumed ugly proportions. flowers
—the
But these were
berries appeared the next day.
The Amban came and
said that a telegram
had been received
from Urumchi, from the governor of the province, with the
demand
to expel
our Expedition, and precisely through Sanju.
This meant a return through a path closed by snow in winter.
Of
we were
already accustomed to the hypocrisy of the
of Khotan,
and we did not doubt that there was no
course
officials
telegram and that the whole story was a fraud.
added the tempestuous Amban, Taotai
maybe he
will
New
you will personally ask Mr.
show some clemency.”
that the officials did not permit
and we had
“if
to search for
“However,”
One
should note
any of our telegrams
to pass,
an opportunity to send telegrams to
York, Peking and Paris, by roundabout ways through the
consulate in Kashgar.
Besides this, the
[161]
Amban
pointed out that
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the officials
had the complete right
away
to take
all
my
artist’s
equipment.
The
And
next day the Taotai changed his anger into clemency.
on account of the cure of
his son
by E.
he would not expel us by way of Sanju.
he notified us that
I.,
But
his clemency, be-
cause of the cure of his son, quickly evaporated and the
Our
arms, three
They
were sealed and taken away.
might the
The
arms were not even taken into consideration.
When
case
was brought into the room for the packing
arms, even the Chinese stepped back,
coffin.”
Kashgar we officials
enormous
of the
It
them back.
said that in
permits from the British
receive
to carry
December 29th the guns and three revolvers,
Finally on
threatened to search our house. search took place.
officials
E.
I.
added “This
would seem
is
the coffin of such type of officials.”
were already
that the inventions of oppression
exhausted, but ignorance prompted one notified us that our
With
passports.
this,
China demanded nothing
perial passports.
Quite accidentally
They
more “game.”
American papers did not
and demanded pre-war of Republican
murmuring “a
interest officials
the “wise” officials
less
than the old im-
we had with
us an old pass-
port and the Certificate of the Swedish Order of the Northern Star.
The
to send
it
“buffalos” copied this
somewhere.
The demand revolution
for a pre-war passport after nine years of Chinese
showed us
ill-qualified,
that the officials of
Kashgar and Urumchi
My
We
are not only
dear friends,
Amban Chang Fu,
resourcefulness.
plan to go immediately to
in order to find a if
you want
bloodedness and patience, go to the
Ma, and
Khotan
but that they are limitlessly ignorant; and to remain
here would be even dangerous.
istration.
and the other one, and pretended
city of
will teach
more
admin-
to try out your cold-
Here Taotai
Khotan.
you with
Before our departure,
sensible
their
all
we heard
a
medieval
rumor
bazaar that serious trouble was brewing for the Taotai. [
162]
in the It
is
;
KHOTAN and the
that he received the position of the Taotai
rumored
murder which he
for the
from the governor of the province,
himself executed of the military governor of Kashgar
however,
him
revealed that the
it is
star
year;
last
murder was accomplished not by
Now
alone but also by the soldiers.
one
may
believe that
murderers must become Taotais.
all
The was
details of the
crucified
and
mander
of
spurted
upon the
murder
two days
after
Khotan
are medieval.
The captured man
of crucifixion the present
com-
him at such close range that the blood At the same time his soldiers were also
shot at
victor.
shooting with him. I
am
writing with sorrow for the Chinese.
I
can imagine
the best Chinese will blush for such contemporaries! the tales of Sven Hedin,
recall
Russian soldiers;
his trunks for
Amban
waiver to the
how
robbery;
was forced
that he
new
chief for his nose
Amban
—that
searched
had no claims against them
to enter the court of the
Let the
know
officials
Let us
Filchner gave his signed
It is
Amban
how
for
Kosloff
with twenty Cos-
sad to realize and to see that
order of the state has not yet changed
evalism.
least
Chinese
badly Prjevalsky fared in Khotan;
sacks to quell the lawlessness.
the
how how
how
its
gloomy medi-
get along without the aid of a handker-
is
not important.
But
let
the
Amban
at
something.
During the search
of our things, the
Amban
recalled several
times that the Russians at the frontier of Manchuria bro\e his teapot
And
all
his petty rancor revealed itself in this
another very heinous crime did the Russians do; think only,
they vaccinated the wife of the Taotai from Aksu! is
information.
related with rancor.
indignantly said to the
—This felony
During the search of our
Amban, who ordered
things, E.
I.
that the yakhtan
own things be opened: “Look, Amban, there is And so the wife of the Taotai from Aksu was
containing her
my
corset.”
avenged!
Our Chinaman
is
[
indignant and shocked:
163]
While
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and diplomat, with
he, a Chinese officer
stood
by,
a literary reputation,
and carried away our arms!
they usurped
deprived the Expedition of
means
its
He
of defense.
They
says:
“This
work of robbers.” Local Moslems come, advise and warn and try to show sympathy. One can imagine what these quiet, cowed people, who have lost their identities, have to bear. is
the
One can imagine how much and youths have
the Chinese intellectuals, students
to stand, they
who
are so sensitive to the
grime
of license. It is
necessary to find ways to depart.
of the frost.
The camels
are ready.
“Tell the escorting soldiers,
not in the rear
— Chinese
the Expedition
sewed
it;
old Chinese whispers:
they have guns, to go in front and
will be carried in
It
The Amban
The banner of front. Tzung
Officer.”
does not
Mongolian descent
know
anything about
—instructs
him
Once,
brated painter.
Kucha
lived a cele-
as a deposit against a loan,
he brought
his painting representing a
head of cabbage and a
asked 3,000 sar (equivalent to $2,700). the place of the owner, gave
He was
The Bek
art.
by means of the
politely
following ancient legend: “In olden times in
returned.
in spite
red with yellow and the inscription in black: “Lo, an
American Art
of
must go,
shoot from behind.”
ready.
is
if
The
We
him
A
boy,
butterfly
who was
the requested loan.
and
taking
The owner
indignant that for a cabbage and a butterfly,
much money. He chased away the boy and considered the money lost. Winter came and on the appointed day the artist brought the money and asked to have the painting one should give so
back.
saw
They took
out the painting and the owner, to his terror,
that the butterfly
demanded was upset. The artist
the boy.
But
his
had disappeared from the
complete picture
picture.
as described.
The
The owner
painter said, ‘So you have unjustly thrown out
now
only he can help you.’ [
164]
The owner
called
KHOTAN The boy
the boy.
and the
for three days kept the picture near the fire
not appreciated the
have
but he
artist,
butterflies
the
and made him
rich
Amban, but even crime
fire re-
So perfect
called the butterfly to life in winter as well.
And
The same
Only the warmth of the
also in the painting.
painter.’
appear in the
For the winter they disappear.
summer-time.
happens
the boy said: ‘You have
so perfect that his colors
is
The
the qualities of nature.
all
warm
Then
butterfly appeared again.
is
this
owner was ashamed and adopted the boy for his wisdom.” So does the Bek teach the
the
Buddha
said in the Sutras:
“The
greatest
ignorance.”
is
Among
the Moslems,
of Damascus.
news has spread about the destruction
The Moslems
are indignant.
Precisely
by harm-
ing the sanctuaries and by pillage will this breach be most easily In Paris they cannot even imagine
defined forever.
through the depths of Asia flow of
Moslem thought
why Muntazar,
asked us
same
letter
M.
Is this
also asked about
the statement of
through
his
deserves great attention.
Messiah, Maitreya,
quickly
However, the
bird-messengers.
fly
how
all
One Moslem start
with the
not the very same manifestation?
Buddhism.
They
Buddha being
They
listened very attentively to
also
a
man, but being great
supreme knowledge of Buddha reverencing woman;
Buddha having himself shown the manifestation of Maitreya. One day Kalmucks came from Karashahr. They came to make obeisance before Buddhist objects which we possess. Kalmucks know that here Buddha passed going northward. kind; of
interesting to notice that Sir Charles Bell in his last
book
about Tibet points out that Buddha might have been of
Mon-
It is
golian descent. of
is
populated by Mongoloids and the tribe
Sakya might have been sprung from them.
that
Then,
especially
Buddha northward. All signs, remains, must be examined anew. The gigantic image
interesting all
Nepal
is
the direction of
[165]
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA of Maitreya, described.
ought
on the rock near Maulbeck,
is
often mentioned and
does not occur to one that the whole huge rock
It
to be
from
investigated
already in
Khotan
inscription
on the reverse
all
But when
sides.
quite accidentally
we heard
side of the rock.
It
we were
about a Chinese
was an immeas-
urable pity to have lost this possibility; because a Chinese was
with
And
us.
then,
what could
this
unexpected language have
One can expect Sanskrit, Pali, Tibetan and even Mongolian! But why did a Chinese hand write upon the rock of Maitreya? Monuments should always be approached with an meant?
open mind.
The
antiques in
Khotan
During the
exhausted.
are really
two months, outside of two or three fragments, and a dozen iminothing was brought to
tations,
for
treasure
us.
And
has ceased.
And
the occupation of seeking
the tales breathe of old
Yotkan
munications already described by Sir Aurel Stein.
meaning the
site
Khotan
of old
—
is
really populated
and covered by Moslem cemeteries.
Sarts
quarians often refer to the
name
com-
by peaceful
Just as Italian anti-
now
of Bode, here also
they are
continually speaking about Sir John Marshall or about Sir Aurel Stein.
There have not remained any ancient
Life
congealed as happens before a wave of
is
Why,
in point of fact,
of Chinese Turkestan
?
Khotan considered
is
We do not see the
We live on a big road branching to to the Province
Kansu and
do the
camels sound.
bells of
the donkeys.
being created. it
is
now
By such
The rug
objects in daily use.
a
new
commercial center
nerve of this commerce.
Aksu, Kucha and Tun-huang,
into the depths of China.
call of
steps the rotations of industry are not
industry has deteriorated considerably, life.
Properly speaking the
Khotan designs have completely degenerated.
And
But seldom
Seldom does one hear the
conventional and without
disappeared.
constructions.
The
jade has
another characteristic pointed out by ancient [
166]
KHOTAN authors has disappeared: singing has ceased, and has been reIn contrast with such singing, that
placed by fierce screams. of the Ladakis
full of
is
has ceased to sing, It
rhythm and
means
it
which Fa-hsien
same Khotan to
the very
is
our era dedicated the
in the fourth century of
The
people
Buddhists and find joy in music.
There
exalted description: “This country thrives happily.
They
are rich.
belong to
from the
all
members of communes and they almost all Mahayana. They all live and derive their support commune. The villages are spread on big expanses
more than
are
are
10,000
and before the door of each house
They
(Suburghan).
all
are
guests with everything that
is
is
a small
raised
very hospitable and
The
necessary.
ruler of the coun-
Gomati, which belongs to Mahayana.
beating of gongs
all
sit
in
members
of the
commune
harmonious order and keep
with the dishes.
To what
.
.
.
Some
of us
silence,
went on
Appian
Way
or the
Road
to Ostia
and do not
The
does not relate contemporary Khotan with
At
the
gather for a meal.
to Kashgar.”
extent can reality be changed!
pagoda
provide the
try placed us in
All
a people
that they are greatly depressed.
strange to think that this
is
When
freshness.
.
.
clatter .
present evidence past, just as the
its
do not lead
to the present
Roman Rome. It is
in
a pity that Fa-hsien did not travel further than
what
and even
now
Russian Turkestan, because everywhere there
in Persia are traces of
And Bokhara
yet.
name this
is
is
nothing
of a Buddhist monastery.
philogical
else
at all discovered
than Vihara, the distorted
George
successfully discovered
Pamir, Afghanistan, Persia
traces of those flowerings art
Buddhism, not
transformation in Paris and Pelliot absolutely
agreed with him.
“The
Kashgar
of culture,
was incomparable, and
a
the best gifts.”
[167]
when
work
—everywhere
as
of art
are
chronicles say:
and
a
book were
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Tsung had
We
a dream.
“A
I.,
George and
Tsung comes running
sabers, slashed Yang-tu-t’u.
laughs:
three, E.
Now
very good dream.
all
Han Chen
Tzi
dream and
with pleasure
and
interprets
that, if
Tsung emphasizes
dream, Tu-t’u fared badly.
tell it
the victory will be yours,
and Tu-t’u will fare badly.” also smiles broadly
to
with
I,
this
only in a
the importance
of the dream: “If Tu-t’u treats the great guests badly things
him and he
will fare badly with
Khotan
is
So
in far-away
rendered a verdict against Tu-t’u in Urumchi: “More
than a year he will not
He
decision.
will not live.”
evidently the
We
live.”
“You have
laughs.
truth will assert
speak to the Sart about
already replaced Kerim-Bek,
itself
with Tu-t’u.”
Although
Tu-t’u makes fun of the Peking government he himself
Who
in a furnace of hatred.
Ma,
robber,
churians?
The In
or
Any
Aksu
The Khotan one from Kuldja with his Man-
will
or the
sit
in his place
?
enterprising troops can easily take Sinkiang.
will be set a place for the
the
image of Rigden-japo
first
light of the
New
of Mongolia begin.
way bringing new messages. Temple of Shambhala. When
Era
will reach Urga, then will flash the
— truth.
Then
will the true renaissance
In Kucha, in the bazaars, recently
two
ing lamas distributed images and a prayer of Shambhala. the nuclei of revivified
celebrated
Buddha.
Buddhism have found
New
of the
Burkhan Bulat
is
Era.
Khotan
near Khotan.
The Maitreya Approaches.”
2.
New
Series
4.
The
of one of
the path of
Ghum
of the lies
the
Era.”
comprises seven parts:
“The Steed
holds of the Walls,”
Here,
The magnets
are planted “as truly as under the stone of
prophecy about the
is
arriv-
shelter.
Suburghan near Khotan must be the place
the manifestations
ways
sitting
is
pilgrims are passing on their
Urga
also,
this
of Happiness.”
“The Banner [168]
i.
3.
“Shambhala
“The Strong-
of the Future.”
5.
“The
MAITREYA
Scries)
OF
IGNS
(Maitreya
KHOTAN Power
of the
Caves.”
“The Whispers
6.
of the Desert.”
7.
“Maitreya the Conqueror.”
December
1st
One cannot imagine
more
a
striking contrast than the tones
Himalayas and Ladak
of the
Sometimes
it
Where
is
is
gone or the eyes are
is
are the crystals of purple, blue
The
and dusty storeroom!
rosions of time cut the skin like glass
eye
desert. filled
and green ?
the abundance of fiery yellow and vivid red colorings a gray
It is like
comparison with the
seems that one’s eyesight
And where
with dust.
in
and
?
all-penetrating cor-
eat the tissues.
so accustomed to tonelessness, that, not glimpsing
any
The col-
Also, unnoticeably, a sand storm starts
ors, it slides as into a void.
up and our black Tumbal becomes woolly gray. Sometimes the Occasionally we are reminded of the charm stars are beautiful.
Kuen lun. The home-made mowing
of the mountains by the faint blue range of
donkeys are bemoaning machines
also groan.
Some
repulsive. is
their lot.
The
the
gigantic goiters of the people are
say they are
already such a race.”
And
The
“from the water.”
size of the goiters seriously affects
the nerves and psychology of the consciousness.
The water
in the creeks
The lama wanted
to
says
that
is
Others, “this
covered with
The
frost begins.
ice.
one very learned Buddhist in Ladak
arrange a discussion with George on the subject of
Buddhism.
At
that time the
ing the discussion.
He
lama was timorous about arrang-
says: “I
was uncertain whether your son
could speak about the foundations of the teaching.
Nowadays
many foreigners who call themselves Buddhists, but they do not know anything and judge according to untruthful books and commentaries. Nowadays there are many such pseudoBut now I am sorry that I did not arrange this Buddhists. there are so
debate in
Ladak because your son knows [
169]
everything.
He knows
ALTAI-HIMALAYA more than many learned lamas. and gradually
tions unnoticeably
me
to
Here
everything.
you; and you have explained
to
Ladak we did not have an
a pity that in
It is
have put various ques-
I
Once I was traveling here with the great scientist, P. I asked him various questions but he did not answer them. He only became angry, because he did not know how opportunity to speak.
to answer.”
The lama would
much
like very
to see the Khazars, a
Mon-
golian tribe which remained after the invasion in Afghanistan.
January
7926
ist,
The lamas starts to
Buddha: “An
often repeat the words of
oil
lamp
smoke before extinguishing.”
Instead of being able quietly to depart from the rule of the
Taotai there arise
new
insults
leaving dangerous Khotan.
ing,
comes
tells
us:
a messenger
“Mr. Taotai
To go through
ist,
from the Taotai, and
We
the desert
Our
difficulties.
are ready.
But January
specifies that
not through Kashgar.”
senseless
The camels
things are already packed. at
and
We
feel joy
early in the in
morn-
embarrassment
you go through Tun-huang
“Our arms were taken away. without arms is impossible. Not only say:
every expedition, but every merchant going through the desert
has arms with him.
Kashgar.
Moreover,
Urumchi.
And
Besides,
our
money
has been sent for us to
co-workers,
Americans, go
the
to
fourth, the Taotai himself has just approved our
going to Kashgar.”
The messenger
me
to tell
“But
it
you is
to
smiles, “All this
difficult to
cates for “It
true.
go
to
are robbers!”
But Mr. Taotai changed
you the path through the desert
means
that
we cannot
see either [
Tun-huang.”
But the Taotai himself said
there!
Kansu
But Mr. Taotai sent
true.
go through the sands
that in the Province of
“Quite
is
17°
]
his decision
to
and
indi-
Tun-huang.”
Yarkand, nor Kashgar,
KHOTAN Aksu
neither
All these orders of the Chinese
or Kucha.
officials
bring insult to the United States!”
To-day
“Speak yourself with Mr. Taotai. if
you
will
New
is
Year and
beg Mr. Taotai very well maybe he will again change
his orders.”
we
“But
want
don’t
We
to beg.
The messenger only
desire justice.”
we go
smiles and suggests again that
to-day to the Taotai.
Here
also the people
whisper to us a colorful
procession
went
case
huge
and was carried on poles by four people.
This
into the court of the Taotai during his festival
The Chinese
lunch.
was made of
The
a very
for our arms, without special reason, size, like a coffin,
detail:
And
again whispered, “a coffin.”
the Taotai
himself became pale and ordered them quickly to carry the case out of his court into the is
yamen
of the
Amban. He knows
committing an offense for which he will have
We go to the On
rocks, fish
our
and
to answer.
As is prescribed for the action of a tragic drama must be combined with the side-
Taotai.
Grand Guignol, show:
that he
the
way we meet all sorts
tion to congratulate us
paper dragons,
a procession carrying
of tinsel.
on the
They
New
are
coming
in our direc-
Year.
The conference with the Taotai exceeded all limits of patience. We told him about the necessity of changing American checks in Kashgar. We told him about the necessity of having our teeth attended to. We told him about the hurried necessity of communicating with
New
We
York.
We
offended the dignity of America. reasons.
said that
by
his
told about
all
conduct he causes
and
But the Taotai answered that we could go either
through the Sanju Pass back to India (which lous because the Pass
is
go through the desert with robbers, against
would be detained
covered with
ice until
is
obviously ridicu-
June) or
we
could
Kansu (without arms, though infested whom he himself had warned us) or we
in
to
;
Khotan. [
171
pointed out that our forced
I ]
ALT AI-HI MALAYA detention was an arrest for which
we gave no
The Taotai
cause.
repeated the same words, insisting that our passport, which was
given by order of the Peking government, was not valid. possible that
Mr. Chang Lo, the representative of China,
League of Nations, does not know how the Taotai
out that in view of such offensive conduct,
The
at the
to give a passport?
had never heard of the League of Nations.
China completely.
Is it
I
But
pointed
desired to leave
I
The
Taotai repeated the same thing.
people behind the Taotai’s back laughed and pointed to his head.
We
disputed unceasingly.
It
was impossible
to follow
The
complicated fissure of ignorance and madness.
We
trying to annihilate our sympathy for China.
up
this
Taotai was
remembered
one of our acquaintances, a progressive Chinese, in America.
my
Listening to
asked sadly: I
defense of China, he
“And you
am
answered, “I
yourself, have
somehow withered and
you already been
intending to go there.”
He
in
added:
China?”
“We
shall
speak after your return.”
And
so
we
returned to our house arrested.
New
We
sat
upon our
Year’s
Day by composing
a written address to the Consuls of Kashgar:
“The Roerich Ex-
packed trunks and we ended the
pedition on the eve of leaving for Kashgar has been arrested by the Chinese officials of
Khotan without cause occasioned on the
part of the Expedition.
“In view of the absence of a United States Consul,
we
are
addressing ourselves herewith to the representatives of foreign
governments that they
in the city of
show
Kashgar with the urgent demand
the most serious consideration in obtaining per-
mission at once for the Expedition to proceed to Kashgar.
In
the event that permission of the Kashgar Taotai be insufficient
we beg
that they telegraph at our expense to the
eral of the Province of
Governor-Gen-
Urumchi.
“Three causes compel us precipitately are: First, the necessity to
to
hurry on.
communicate with our [
172]
These
representatives
KHOTAN from America; second, the Swedish Mission;
necessity necessity
the
third,
to
the doctor of the
see
money
of receiving
in
Kashgar.”
And
we
so
nine days,
if
Our
shall wait.
they reach at
We
all.
have received back
our very important telegrams undispatched.
come
really
can reach only in
letters at best
dangerous, because the
Everything has be-
Of what
We
Our arms
do they wish
to deprive us
are
?
have received a note about the seizure of our arms.
am
begins thus: “I
me
else
way
every
are in
officials
hindering our communications with America. seized.
five of
It
giving this paper for the reason that before
appeared a foreign man, Hulitzu, the other name, Loluchi,
etc. It
appears that Hulitzu means Roerich and Loluchi
Who
Roerich. It is
this
can
make anything
out of this diabolic nonsense!
America
again completely ignored in
significant that
manuscript.
It
is
seems that altogether the Taotai, even more
than Columbus, doubts the existence of some kind of
to-him America, which E.
She
I. is
men.”
is
“What
George
shall
is
called
She
very depressed.
says:
also
is
unknown-
Mei-Kuo.
set
out with such an open heart.
one do with humanity; these are not
very downcast: “But that China, which
is
shown to us in museums and lectures, has nothing in common with what is occurring!” Our Chinese has drooped altogether, and begs us not
to speak of
anything because they will
“because these are thieves, murderers and dogs!” whispers,
“The Chinese never
act differently.”
kill us,
The lama
All this becomes
dangerous. Sir
Aurel Stein gives in
his
book, as an authentic
fact, that
the
Taotai in Kashgar for a few years of his administration transferred to
Hankow
communication
in his
name
impossible,
authoritative scientist.
But
2,000,000 taels.
although is
it
[
*73
Sir
possible? ]
We
Aurel Is
it
thought Stein
this
an
is
possible?
.
.
.
And And
you, builders of
you many?
are
new
how
China,
hard
it
must be
for you!
But of course the history of the world has
always been created by the minority.
I
hope that the Roosevelts had
And
the sack of Khotan.
from
saves one
daily
in our
And
And
way.
communications with the Taotai and
there
after all, this
is
They happily avoided
easier.
withal, hunting in the mountains
harmed
In the mountains no one
ban.
it
was no one
to
us,
Am-
nor placed obstacles
change
his decisions daily.
And
not a difference of psychologies.
our
Chinese and the Moslems equally understand the whole dangerous absurdity of the situation.
man who would
a faithful
Just
now some
one offered to find
place our letter to the Consuls into
the postbag, because to-day near the post office
some
suspicious
watchers were noticed. •
•
•
•
•
]anuary 2nd
A cial
be
merchant came inquiring about the
Khotan meets
One may
in such hostility those
not enter and
may
commer-
But what connections can there
connections with America.
if
possibilities of
not leave.
coming from America ? Such commercial con-
nections! •
•
The more cally
is
•
•
•
more sympathetiThey offer to send
hostile the officials are to us, the
the population inclined toward us.
over our addresses to the Consuls in a
more
certain way.
Our
people are sincerely indignant, especially at the seizure of the
arms.
They
say:
“They
will never return the arms.”
Chinese advise us to go on Russian roads.
want
belief that the officials, as usual,
Our the
case
is
being discussed from
is
[
all sides at
intensified.
174
]
express the
to extort a large bribe.
Bek accompanied George even during
that the surveillance over us
They
Three
To-day
the bazaar. his ride.
It
means
KHOTAN am
I
writing
Verily,
it
these details because
all
We
have a passport from the Peking
a special letter of
recommendation from the Chinese
instructive!
is
government;
Ambassador
London;
in
Washington;
With
us
is
wonderful
in Paris; a
Consul in Calcutta; a
seum
will be useful for others.
it
from
from the United
from the Archaeological Society United
six institutions in the
my
With
paintings.
And
French and other passports.
even with
us
this
in
States.
With
a Chinese, a former officer and diplomat.
books published about
States
from the Victoria and Albert Mu-
letter
a letter
letters
letter
us are
English,
are
complete sym-
posium, one risks falling prey to the tyranny of dangerous desAll this
pots.
Just
now
is
very instructive.
they have brought a
from the bazaar.
tion
house were found cover that
my
pictures
On
verifying
this,
it
who
guns.
To-morrow they will disaeroplanes. They speak
travels
from Tibet on ioo
comes out that •
•
January
during the search of our
wings of
are
about a Great Foreigner
“authentic” communica-
see,
Don’t you
many machine
new
•
•
this is also
horses!
about us.
•
yd
They speak in the bazaar about the fight of the ten Chinese generals. They speak about the death of Chang-Tso-Lin. They speak about foreigners
On
verification,
our
letter to the
it
who
brought four hundred cases of arms.
appears that this
Consuls
The men
left.
the desert without arms.
rumor
It is
is
also about us.
are afraid to
To-day
go through
what
impossible to foresee into
the present events will resolve themselves.
January 4th
A
Sunday bazaar communication: At the bazaar the Kalmucks
were betting about our cessful, as
never before.
The Taotai himself with
success.
And
And
the forecasting
they ran to communicate
his foolish raids [
175
]
is
was it
suc-
to us.
helping in the spread-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
ing of absurd rumors.
some way
shall in
or other leave,
but he will strangle himself in his garden of madness.
have
I
decided to communicate with America and to give up the plan of going through China.
undertook to paint but troversies
I
One can
common
many
reasons against
tongue with the most primitive
•
•
knows it
a
hinders the
gun under
we
course
remedy: “This
a sure
•
woman from
is
he says with
foolish.
has to shoot with
away and the woman The Chinaman has another con-
important
a very
air:
“The Tibetans
are
This
In the heaven there are a dragon and a bird.
One
He
where only
dislikes very
is
The Chinese
knows
that there
women live and they give much " revived corpses”
birth only
rain.”
also
are formulating for the Governor-General our accusation
We
against the Taotai as follows:
Khotan
of the following:
i.
Of
tural goal of our expedition.
into consideration
the
United States in India. the pursuit of artistic all
art
2.
work
toward
America and toward the
Of
cul-
his insulting refusal to take
from the Consul-General of the
letter 3.
accuse Ma-ta-jen Taotai of
a deeply insulting attitude
the dignity of the United States of
ing
One
giving birth.
only one dragon.
exists a district
We
dif-
But the Chinese
are helpless.
that in heaven there
dragon cannot make
to girls.
going through a
the bed and the devil will run
They think
fools.
woman
the devil sitting under the bed and
is
will give birth immediately!” jecture;
wives, are
•
•
to ask us to help a
Of
many
tribes,
and do not enter into any evolution.
absolutely not acceptable
ficult childbirth.
I
cross the highest mountains,
but savages in dress clothes with decorations and
They come
it.
did not agree to pursue foolish con-
with madmen.
one can find a
have too
I
Of in
his insulting prohibition
Khotan under
threat of confiscat-
materials belonging to the expedition.
insulting refusal to take into consideration [
U6]
put upon
all letters
4.
Of
the
and authori-
KHOTAN from the American
zations
expedition.
5.
dignity.
Of
6.
Of
institutions
which have organized the
the insulting behavior toward our personal to recognize
the insulting refusal
as
valid our
Chinese passport given to us by order of the Peking government,
through Mr. Cheng Lo, the Chinese Ambassador in
Paris.
the refusal to take into consideration the letter given
Cheng Lo
to all
governors of Turkestan.
the expedition in expedition.
one hunter’s tion of all
Khotan which ruined
Of
Of
by Mr.
forcibly detaining
the scheduled plans of the
The insulting seizure of all our arms (two guns, gun and three revolvers), which deprived the expedi9.
means
of defense, although every traveler crossing
the desert carries arms. to
8.
7.
10.
Of
and inhuman threat
the insulting
send the expedition beyond the boundaries of China through
n. Of
the Pass of Sanju closed with snow.
the insulting refusal
to take into consideration the presence in the expedition of a
middle-aged lady.
12.
Of
and inhuman intent
insulting
to send
Tun-huang withmembers suffering from
the expedition to the desert in the direction of
money and with the 13. Of the insulting and humiliating change of his each day. 14. Of the insulting and inhuman refusal
out arms, without their teeth.
own to
orders
permit a personal consultation with the doctor of the Swedish
Mission in Kashgar.
15.
Of
the insulting refusal to permit us to
money affairs personally in Kashgar. 16. Of his insulting demand that we show the invalid pre-war passport, nine years after the revolution. 17. Of his insulting refusal to permit arrange our
us to If
communicate with American
institutions
would
Ma-ta-jen, the Taotai of Khotan,
indications
from the Governor-General
strive to direct the
expedition just there.
to permit us to proceed to
intentions. a full
Urumchi
The above-mentioned
and immediate
via
•
•
[
177
like to follow the
Urumchi he would His repeated refusals
Kashgar show
his criminal
accusations force us to
satisfaction. •
at
from Kashgar.
•
]
•
demand
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Also one must notice that in to the officials that
all
we
negotiations,
such actions as theirs would
pointed out
reflect
on the
Chinese students and Chinese quarters so numerous and widespread in America.
But
it
was
clear that the fate of their
com-
patriots did not interest the criminal officials in the slightest.
Our lama informs on
us that a lama
a pilgrimage to Tibet
The lama gave a horse
him was going
to
and was arrested by Chinese
officials.
a bribe to the local colonel of a thousand lan,
and two
pieces of cloth.
And
The lama walked
him through.
known
in the night the latter let
by crossing
for nine days
at
night and during the day hid himself in the sands.
January $th Vedantists call Buddhists “Nastika.”
However, Vedanta
knows only I
The formula
Buddha;
“I take refuge in
is:
knowledge
— Buddha
of initiation of a Buddhist
this
man, the
the
The Teaching;
take refuge in
Does not
take refuge in the Order.”
less
I
means godless people.
concede a personal god but
also does not
the principle.
It
formula lead to end-
greater teacher of light,
summoning to go fearlessly along the path of general well-being. The entire contemporary evolution was foretold by Buddha this lion of fearlessness and attain-
reverencing knowledge and
—
ment.
An
occidental newspaper
from India reached
Of
discovered muscles in plants.
not muscles.
Bose
course,
demonstrating
is
if
just
us.
Bose has
there are nerves, that page
why
which
is
needed for the coming evolution.
January 6th
Another “wonderful”
woman
servant
came
detail
about Khotan.
to be hired [
—a
178]
strange
A
month ago a Moslem woman;
she at once threw back her veil and started vulgarly to smile,
The cheeks were
offering her services.
thick as a finger cially sent,
— in
one straight
We refused.
unclean.
One
line.
She
left.
felt
something
spe-
To-day an old Chinese
Amban
complained about rumors which the
The eyebrows
rouged.
made
spread that he
washwoman. The old man is again indignant. At once we remembered the rouged one. Travelers, be careful! The old man protests: “The Amban himself has a wine shop in Yarkand. If only we could get soldiers from the dishonorable offers to the
Consul!”
If
even a Chinese dreams of the Consul’s soldiers one
can imagine his mood.
The
characteristics of the fifth
ing of fearlessness; Akochir or the sound
A; Tara; Visvapani
Buddha: The North; the
Ak
bless-
Dorje (the crossed Dorje);
(the many-armed,
all
bestowing)
Maitreya.
In his article in the Shanghai ness of Tibet,” Dr.
seen one of
body of a in the sits
its
Lao Tsin
says, “in
most remarkable
who, they
scientist
costume of
a
in an armchair
Times of
one of the sanctuaries
characteristics
—the
Tibetan lama,
as
he was during his
like a
man
I
have
mummified
died 350 years ago.
say,
and appears
1925, “In the wilder-
Garbed life,
he
rather fallen asleep
him on the table lies an unfinished manuscript over which he was at work before his death. The body has turned yellow and dry with time, but as
than dead hundreds of years since.
a
whole
it
Before
Many
has kept incredibly well.
legends were
around these remains of the ancient Tibetan
scientist.
woven I
was
assured that three times during the period since his death, the
body had changed altogether
its
original position.
and came back only
the keepers of the temple,
after
coming
And
once
it
two or three
into the
disappeared days.
chamber where the
remains were kept, discovered that the manuscript before [
179
]
Once
him
ALTAI-HIMALAYA was completed with
a
message of the greatest importance for the
whole world.”
Okakura but could
much
tea’
not also suspect you Westerners of the ‘lack of
tea’
notes:
we
“You can laugh
your constitution?
in
having
at us
You have gained an expansion
We
possessions at the price of all calmness.
harmony without it?
The
force against any attack.
East in certain respects
sky of contemporary humanity for wealth
darkness of conscience.
‘too
is is
of your
have created the
Would you
believe
The
greater than the West!
broken in the cyclopic fight
The world moves gropingly in the egoism and vulgarity. One buys science with a bad One manifests good will, out of love for utility.
and despotism.
East and West, like two dragons tossed by the turbulent sea, are fighting in vain to conquer the precious stone of
‘Ny-uka’ in order to heal the great disaster.
We
life.
We
need
await the great
Avatar.” •
Aurobindo Ghose
says,
come when you must
•
•
“We
•
•
say to humanity, ‘The time has
take the great step and rise out of a
material existence into the higher, deeper and wider
life
toward
The problems which have troubled mankind can only be solved by conquering the kingdom within; which humanity moves.
not by harnessing the forces of Nature to the service of comfort
and luxury, but by mastering the
forces of the intellect
man
the spirit; by vindicating the freedom of
and
within as well
as
without and by conquering, from within, external Nature.”
Alexandra David-Neel says
(“La Vie de Peuple,” 1925,
in her article,
Paris.)
travagant dreams but in those
“We
immense
“The Coming Hero”: can smile at these ex-
regions
where they
are
accepted with unshaken belief and with the greatest reverence, their influence can
become powerful and foreshadow completely [
180]
KHOTAN unexpected events which the most
skillful of politicians
is
unable
to foresee.”
Read the
David-Neel about the old lama
story of
Read the
flowers
upon the
coming
of the time of Shambhala.
lama
glaciers.
tale of the
From
who
brought
lama about the
a local story-teller the
transformed into a participant in international events.
is
David-Neel has brought from Tibet several
new
variants of the
manuscript about Shambhala.
For a
whole net of prophecies and very
scientist the
indications
drawn
across the entire
Asia, represents a remarkable interest.
significant
immeasurable distances of
A
poet
would
say that the
sand and stones were speaking because often the ways of speeding information are absolutely undecipherable.
this
And you
need but relate a piece of information when, immediately, one
you
gives
in reply a
more
still
And
significant piece of news.
at this, the half-shut eyes are faintly glistening.
And
so
we
Once we
live.
the heights, and once
receive a piece of information
from the
To-day
abyss.
from
a soldier stopped
our Chinese at the bazaar, caught hold of his horse by the bridle,
and demanded money from him.
Yesterday one of our
woman on the road and tried to demand And in such a country they have left us without
“guards” stopped a
money from
her.
arms!
strange that Prjevalsky also had unpleasant expci i-
It is
ences just in Khotan.
Khotan.
So we
sit
Marco Polo condemns
the customs
on our trunks amidst untold infamy.
brought us information from the bazaar that the Taotai
of
They
is
intro-
Buddha
spent
ducing the opium trade in Khotan. •
•
•
•
•
January 8th
A their
number
of
members
of the brotherhood of
time in quarrels and the Blessed [
181
]
One
left
them.
The
neigh-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA boring donors were repelled by the quarreling ones and the
were humbled and came
to
Buddha asking him
said:
But
“Such reconciliation will not be fundamental.
On
the contrary, fearlessly uncover
Only then
of your animosity.
Going
to Asia
made
us carry flour
was no is
there
much
and
will reconciliation be real.”
Everything
and
rice
with
They warned
us.
us take forage.
is
there in
needed.
It
They
us that there
However, everything
for the ten days of desert through
provision
is
Kashmiri agencies know nothing.
They made
sugar.
the roots of the quarrels and
all
do not take much food.
quantity.
sufficient
to forget every-
among them.
thing not referring to the causes of quarrels
Buddha
latter
Karakorum, not
only makes the caravan senselessly
long! •
•
•
•
•
January ioth
How becomes exist.
is
our consciousness enriched by sitting in Khotan?
clear that a life
Imagine the
lies,
such as that in Khotan should not people plunged into complete
lives of 100,000
Out of darkness are being born treachery and ignorance. The people have
darkness, divested of disease, vice,
It
all light.
retained only their small trade, achieved by cheating and treachery.
The understanding
of quality in the products has died out.
The understanding about
celerity in
understanding of the victory of labor in the slush of bazaars it
has perished.
demolished.
The
Submersion
and a mutual strangulation goes on. Thus
cannot continue!
The lama who warned is
is
work
us that “Chinese cannot act differently”
predicting another occurrence.
He
says:
When
they see that
things cannot continue in such insolence and cruelty, they will assure you that nothing at so to us
all
and they were always [
happened, that friends.
182]
Note
it
only appeared
that they transmit
KHOTAN everything by
word
mouth and
of
that the frightened Beks will
The
deny everything that they have seen and heard. proof
the receipt regarding the seizure of the arms.”
is
You, builders of
The
falos.”
New
place for
Our Khotan and he
sits
them
is
the zoo.
It
so
when
it
I is
tell
silver coins
come
him
to
which have become
appears that he keeps his riches in the
ground and our earth
And
with the humor
miserly friend: “I
visit to a
and washes heaps of
absolutely black.
black.
China, remove more quickly the “buf-
friend, Kudai-Berdi-Bai, relates
of the East, about his
black
only
such that the silver gets absolutely
is
him, ‘Dost thou
hidden from people.
get black in the other world, ”
if
see,
even the
And
silver gets
thy face will also
thou wilt uselessly hide thy
riches.’
This
is
Two cently
from the
a tale
practical East.
days away from Khotan, along the Karakash, were re-
found great auriferous sands.
who worked on and turned
to
mentioned.
the stream of the river Keriya
Karakash.
Of
A
The
left their
few more gold-bearing
course, all this
In natural resources Sinkiang
January
Thousands of gold seekers
is
is
were
exploited by very crude means.
a rich province.
nth
sensation of Khotan!
dinner arranged by some
Bazaar rumors came, about the
official
in
Kashgar.
It
cussed at the bazaars in the most fantastic way. officials,
rivers
work
merchants and also
many
is
being
The
dis-
Taotai,
of the poorest inhabitants
were
The places were so arranged that the Taotai and the officials were among the most ragged beggars. The same thing happened with the richest man of the city. The host said: “Now we are not in office. Here we are all men, are all equals. invited to the dinner.
[183]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA we
To-morrow you
not so?
Is it
According
are equal people.”
impression was very great.
One
will be the head, Taotai,
So
is
to the echoes in
and to-day
Khotan
the
being related in the bazaar.
cannot discern where the people’s creation begins.
January 12th
came from America. Through Kuldja from November 5th and through Tashkent from December 1st; almost the same amount of time as to Ladak from New York. Beloved friends, Letters
we
read with joy about
all
works, exhibitions,
lectures, the school,
among broad masses; because needed. You are bringing true joy
the propaganda of art is
so imperatively
this
into the
of youth and are kindling the heart-fires.
life
We
heard about some gigantic statues in Central Asia.
know which; maybe
difficult to
Bamian, the half-destroyed
in
all
The height
of one of these
The same
these are the celebrated statues
city
between Kabul and Balkh.
Some
170 feet.
consider
them
Others see in them the most ancient
entirely of Buddhist origin.
antiquity.
is
It is
unclearness as about the stone giants on
the Easter Island.
Our Chinese want
is
go back
to
deeply offended by the to
tremendous vivid notice
“The American
who
court
Roerich
In
?
it
good
art officer,
“Lo”
!
as
—black and red.
—in
there
due
the gates
some
In translation
does not
it
sort of
means:
It
appears that “Lo” means
Chinese, also means “alarm.”
was
to the
He
Lo, forbids any one to enter into the
has no business there.”
Khotan
preted the
!
He hung on
China.
officials.
a fire
during the night.
unworthy conduct
guests.
[184]
The
Sarts inter-
of the officials against
KHOTAN January
A
iph
telegram came: “Washington undertakes necessary meas-
ures.”
But the arms were
cannot attempt to sketch in
I
unknown
deal of experience
and reasons
dogs have taught
me
papers and to deprive us of
all
without arms
countries.
have a great
I
Not only people but wild
for this.
custom.
this
And
taken away.
all
Isn’t
means
it
insolent to ignore
all
There have
of defense?
many cases of oppression of expeditions but such an act not known in literature. I am placing the responsibility upon
been is
the government of the Chinese Republic.
January 15th
From America came
a telegram so distorted that
meaning.
The unseen
news about
a big quarrel
possible to understand the
the bazaar brought the
Taotai and
And is
a
even days of seeming inactivity are
near Kuldja!
little
And
There
casket!
there
is
where
to
is
of his predecessor.
from
between the
There
And
teen years that
we
are
everyday
common
Here
information that
common
life,
end.
know
the discussion
order of things.
when
There
each circumstance It is
now
for seven-
watching the manifestations of the hasten-
Between the tomb of
ing of evolution.
is
the people do not
are periods, called the “balls of events,”
toward one and the same
full of signs.
China simply doesn’t recognize
From
keep their money.
ascends to the problems of the
rolls
friends
news about the monastery
Maitreya!
often the ruler of a district of
money
was im-
Amban.
remarkable
the
it
that
which
passes
away
and between the cradle of the future, electrons of untold energy are gathering
new
mountain abodes Maitreya.
is
formations.
And
the painter-hermit of the
tracing with surety the battle and victory of
Confidently he
is
of those approaching ones,
tracing the lines
and the
[185]
and the
distinctions
signs of those passing
away!
ALTAI-HIMALAYA And
and indisputably he
quietly
“Homage
the
dedication:
to the ruler of the law, to the exalted ruler of the
In Burkan Bulat will be the
northern country of Shambhala.”
Temple
signing
is
of Shambhala.
]anuary iyth
The
are intensifying their criminality.
officials
open packages addressed
started to
Amban, way to the
that
the
heart of America.
we have us
all
means of
The Amban to
is
open
Now
and
all letters
to
shooting.
I
belong
to seize
soldiers,
defend
American I
gical
another.
Of
officer of the
run away
that the
him
The Amban
in confirmation of
Two
case.
Amban
also tell
came galloping
the secretary
all
answer him that
we
at the sight
pack of dogs, by
a
arms taken by him
America
institutions but again
by shooting each other.
when,
I
from an attack of
itself
completely ignored.
the city
But that instead of
our arms.
because they
point out to the
to the
that
However, three years ago an American expedi-
of our one dog.
had
Khotan knows
all
an order from Urumchi
is
arms, they will give us military escort.
tion
which opens
self-defense.”
notifies us that there
cannot trust their
him, “Do not
Yet you and the Taotai have deprived
received money.
of
shall say to
just the Statue of Liberty
forget,
it
To-day he opened a
to us.
We
package from the Shanghai bank.
The Amban
my
is
being
that his soldiers will
end
did not have time to reach
remarks about the guard,
to us, asking help in a serious sur-
of the Taotai’s closest bodyguards shot one
course
we
are not surgeons.
It
appears that the
Taotai was stealing some things and the other guard and, as a result, the two were seriously wounded.
discovered
it
And from
these thieves
vide our guard.
ing a stranger’s
Our
and
old
letter in
assassins, the
man
Ts’ai
Taotai wishes to pro-
Han Chen
says,
“For open-
China formerly, one was punished by
having an eye taken out and a hand cut [
186
]
off.
But here there are
KHOTAN no
officers
but robbers.”
will find the central
It
will be enlightening to see
power of
how we
Urumchi.
the province Sinkiang, in
January iSth
The
first
speckled
snow
little
fell.
E.
I.
is
Masses of
feeding the birds.
Hindus often feed the
birds surrounded her.
birds
during the winter months.
January igth
We
received a letter
from the English Consul
Apparently they are making
in
efforts to enable us to leave
Kashgar.
Khotan.
January 20th
There
is
a letter
He
from the English Consul.
notifies us that
following his efforts and those of the Kashgar Taotai, the Governor-General invites us immediately to proceed
We
will see
how and when
to
Kashgar.
the local “Governors” are going to
notify us.
Toward evening
Amban
the
Khudai-Berdi-Bai that a
letter
notifies
us
briefly
through
has been received from the Gov-
Even
ernor-General with permission for us to go to Kashgar. the
commands
of the Governor-General are being transmitted
through the private note of a private man.
At our
tion!
first
meeting
I
What
an organiza-
Akbar the kingdom and
said to the Taotai that
Great called travelers the best ambassadors of his
always took care to preserve goood relationship with them. say
now
actively
that
I
to the Taotai,
describe
all
mood and
that occurred.
according to the committed
China
is
to write
evil,
a Confucian country
on your
can
“You, Ma-ta-jen, for three months very
have created our
would
I
I
did not hide from you
Confucius ordained that
one must
and according
act, in Just
to
portrait: Ma-ta-jen, ignorant
[187]
measure.
Confucius
and
I
have
cruel savage.”
ALTAI-HIMALAYA And
according to the teaching of Buddha, “ignorance
And
fied as the greatest crime.”
who
jected all
we
all
the
had approached with
quali-
same wise Confucius
and knowledge.
rebelled against art
is
However,
a sincere desire to inscribe into
notes that the powers of China
re-
our
had become more cultured than
And now
during the times of the decline of the empire. again piercingly look into the eyes of the
new
officials.
us
let
Does
there not hide behind their shoulders an ignorant Ma-ta-jen?
People have started to move. trunks, the best are
American
passes nor let through
trunks.
any
Out of all the They do not bend on all
Preparations!
— Belber. The
dust.
horse takes easily two
Rather bad are the Kashmiri ya\tans.
Our Chinese
is
on the part of the Taotai. “the customs”
He
rejoicing.
was
Now
apparently feared direct assaults
he recognizes that
He made
his following
us bring
fire-
crackers to the Taotai, the day of the completion of his
new
of
house.
He
superfluous.
arranged a procession with
gifts
Khotan. Against our wishes he brought cards
According
was
to the results this
all
in vain.
when he came to to the new Amban.
He
explains, that
these are not officers but bandits, but he also agrees that one
must abandon these customs.
As one might expect from
now
these ignorant officials of Khotan,
command from the efforts. They do not know
they give us to understand that the
Governor-General came through their
that in the letter of the British Consul the order of the receipt
of the
command
is
clearly
outlined and they think that
we
believe them.
A
mafa
five sar; a
(a carriage)
pack horse,
from Khotan
six sar.
to
Kashgar
costs twenty-
(A sar is about one Mexican
[
188
]
dollar.)
KHOTAN From
Some have
peared to be spoiled.
warned
in India they
still
but tropical films are a film or
more,
The
local
things.
Of
course,
is
lines
all
And
either white or black.
bearded
men
and black
While
spots.
are
Well,
our regular films turn out.
cloudy.
all
necessary ones ap-
us that these so-called tropical films
Generally
give bad results.
Of
many and
the developed negatives
coming
course, the true intention
often a whole half of
Very good are Agfa. to talk over all sorts of is
not revealed at once.
they wish to hear about the
new
They
customs.
They think that all men must labor. All is well and the tea is being consumed in full accord. But suddenly one drags from out his bosom a number of a London newspaper with a reprint of a drawing from think that these customs could be good.
Moscow magazine, Bezbojni\. Allah also received his unlucky share there. The bearded one “naively” inquires, “But this seems to be Allah?” Of course it is evident and he concludes sourly: “We do not touch their Lenin. Then why do they offend our Allah? And then, do they know the whole Koran? Let them not offend us Moslems. We are many.” The bearded ones a
sourly departed.
.
.
.
In Cairo, near Napoleon’s cannon-balls which stuck out in the walls of the
remove these these
A poral
Mosque,
traces of
I
“Why He answered: “We
asked the guide:
war?”
do you not guard
shall
marks of western sentiments.” representative of Japanese newspapers
punishment of children permitted
great country, the answer of the attacks
on Japan
Samurai, the warriors;
women;
was
Japan?”
in the negative.
“Is cor-
As
the heroism
the intensified labor of
and
befits
Really, are
The courage and honor
just?
[
in
was asked,
self-sacrifice
many of the
of the
workmen and husbandmen
189]
a
give
ALTAI-HIMALAYA undeniable charm to Nippon.
On
Japanese. friends.
never had any collisions with
the contrary, there appeared sensitive Japanese
my
recall
I
I
not refute them, but
articles,
long since, about Japan.
even will reaffirm
I
much
of
I
what was
shall told.
Eliseeff, in Paris,
spoke about the methods of teaching in Japanese
monasteries.
is
demand
It
that the
drama: The prince.
him cold
answer should not contain the
As
the personal.
very remarkable: Sudden questions and the
in
life,
appear the episodes of the Japanese
assassins are stealthily creeping to kill
Shockingly subtle
for her child. official
mourning over is
is
prince
when
her
torn with sorrow.
plan but nevertheless
it
considers his personality as
if
his
crown
the expression of her
supposed
the
Tao-Te-Ching points out: “A sage places
less his
the
In the helplessness of the moment, the nurse exchanges
mother’s heart
last
least intrusion of
personality
appears on the
ends are realized?
first
place.
He
detached from him, and neverthe-
preserved.
is
his personality in the
Is it
not because of
this,
that
Because he has no personal and private
He is free from self-exposition and therefore he gives light. He is free from self-affirmation and therefore is being distinguished. He is free from self-pride and therefore his merits are acknowledged. He is free from self-satisfaction and therefore he enjoys superiority. And because of that he is to such ends.
an extent free from any competition.
compete with him. like a child
He who
No
one
in the
possesses the qualities of
—the venomous insects
will not sting
man
ordains:
“By
creates of himself
introspection,
Tao
him; wild
mals will not attack him, birds of prey will not
Buddha
world can
strike
is
ani-
him!”
by virtue and purity a wise
an island which cannot be submerged by
any floods” (Udanavarga).
[190]
KHOTAN January 2 yd
Our Chinese and lama apparently know well Chinese
of
The
“prophecies.”
according
their
to
repeatedly assure us of their friend-
officials
and put the blame
ship
happens
Everything
official.
a certain type
for everything that
Governor-General of the Sinkiang province.
happened on the
Now
the
officials
have the problem, on what pretext to return our seized arms in order to restore everything to an elusive oral condition and to say: “All
that
was the fantasy of
occurred
months we passed through
For three
travelers.”
a
wonderful schooling; something
of the course experienced by
us nevertheless remains unclear.
why
For instance,
did the
way
every
officials in
prevent us from
communicating with America and why did they return us the telegrams undispatched?
is
it
known
to
everybody
Kashgar and the English Consulate one can always
that through
communicate. the
Whereas,
The
And
officials.
local people at
to
once warned us not to believe
our questions
as to
why,
since
we
did noth-
ing wrong, the local bearded one repeated, “Because they are
But
fools.”
sort of
also in the actions of hopeless fools there
even distorted sense.
It
is
some
means, therefore, that here
is
concealed not only stupidity but even criminality.
A
telegram came from
New
York: “American minister
is
acting.”
Let us finish by a page of that China which
we
did not see:
“Finally the yellow ruler, son of heaven, conquered the of earth his
and darkness.
head the
blue jade.
solar arch
The
But the giant
in his
agony knocked with
and broke into fragments the cupola of
stars lost their nests
and the moon wandered
without aim amidst the scattered fragments of night. the
He
did not search in vain. [
191
]
In despair
who could restore the From the eastern sea arose
ruler searched everywhere to find
heavens.
demon
ALTAI-HIMALAYA armor of
the ruleress, the heavenly Ny-uka, shining in her
She forged the
five colors of the
rainbow
in her
flames.
magic forge
and restored the heavens.” Let us not forget the colorful pollen of Japan which not yet
“Komio, the regent
see.
my hand
thee,
of Nara, sang,
oh
will defile thee,
on the bosom of the meadow, of the past, present
And of the hast
and
so ” future.’
I
did
pluck
as I see thee
Buddhas
dedicate thee to the
again a page from the true East apostrophizes the Mother
World: “Thou,
woven
Untold
Who hast
Thy
Face!
Thou,
Who
the texture of the far-off worlds, Messenger of the
Ruler of the Elusive
!
covered
Bestower of the Unrepeatable.
!
“By Thy command the ocean becomes winds
shall
‘If I
Thus
flower.
we
and the whirl-
silent
trace the outlines of invisible signs.
.
.
.
And
She
who
covered her face will stand on guard alone in the glory of the
And none
signs.
ascend to the summit, none will per-
will
ceive the glory of the twelve-signed
the spirals of light she herself has is
the Leader of those
who go
From
symbol of her power.
woven
the sign in silence.
toward attainment.
Four
She
corners,
the sign of affirmation, are manifested by her as a benediction to those
“A
who
silent
have made their decision.
command,
.
.
all-penetrating, unchangeable, indivisible,
irrefutable, blinding, generous,
harmed,
.
unpronounced,
indescribable, unrepeatable, un-
timeless,
manifested in the lightning!”
[
192]
undelayable
—the
lightning
Part VIII
TAKLA MAKAN— KARASHAHR (1926)
January 2 yth
Timur Bey are
some
is
our
historical
new
names;
all
are Shahs, Sultans, Beys.
to
weigh our
things.
transports one into the Neolithic
with some “magic” jade on a
little
circles
and
him
more
We
Truly
Age and we
The
stick
cap proclaims the number
such stones with holes from
them
called
7.
stops
that
is
grusily, plumb-lines; but
why to-morrow we go toward
on the way
to
Kashgar
3.
Yangi Hissar;
Yaberchat;
13.
Our friends, the Kalmucks, way to Aksu and Karashahr. rang the low-toned
rugs from
many
scale
massive green piece of
Zangu Chuda; 4. Guma bazaar; Karghalik; 8. Posgam; 9. Yarkand;
Kizil; 12.
gates,
little
we found
must go eastward and
Pialma;
kim;
Akhun.
correctly, these are weights.
the west! 2.
A
the
string slides along as a counterbalance for the
alone.
the Neolithic
Even
The arrangement of the Age. On a beam hangs a
signs.
trunk and “the magi” in a round seen by
look, there
to himself the title
most insignificant one appropriates
He comes
Wherever you
caravaneer.
Khotan
to
1.
Cholak;
5.
10.
Zawa; 6.
Ak-
Kokrabat; n.
Kashgar.
passed us yesterday on the shortest In the darkness of dawn, past our
bells of their camels.
With them
Toin Lama.
valuable messages
14.
are:
They
carried
they also carried
which can be appreciated by the Bud-
dhist consciousness.
Again
in
our caravan there will be three currents: Buddhist,
Moslem, Chinese.
The
last
one [
the weakest.
is
193
]
The
last
inven-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Han Chen — the
tion of Ts’ai
banner of the expedition with the
big inscription “Lo” (Roerich) which also means “Alarm,”
on
a vivid red staff.
and, as
officials
we
Ts’ai
Hang Chen
put
is
took our cards to the
Amban,
expected, the rogues, Taotai and
assured us that they had greatly helped us.
The mafas came
lama and
for the
Ts’ai
Han
Chen.
It
is
evident that these carriages have not changed since the fifteenth
They would be good
century.
for
any museum.
Kudai-Berdi-
Bai brought a dastarhjian in the shape of roasted mutton and Incidentally, the Chinese colonel also realized that some-
pastry.
thing unfortunate had happened. caps; again the ferocious roar of
on the road.
started
came statue,
For the
And
flying to us.
became seemingly
last
Again
loads; again woolly
time the
sheep came. transfixed
we
In the morning
Tumbal.
little
Tumbal,
on the
Khotan
birds of
a black
like
baggage.
pile of
January 2 8th
From
We is
seven o’clock in the morning
saw the type
of
work
that of the Dardistans
Nepalese, but worst of incapacity
is
hard
all,
of Ladakis
collected the caravan.
—swift,
and Kashmiris.
From
We
Worse
energetic.
Good
that of Khotanese.
to imagine.
forty horses with effort.
we
the
is
Such
work
laziness
of
and
seven to twelve they loaded
went through Khotan; again we
were convinced that whatever bears the marks of old Khotan is
not so bad and shows remnants of carving, of some ornamenta-
tion
and proportion.
less
heap of clay and
But everything new has become a sensepitiful stakes.
At
the bazaar you some-
times see faces, not wicked, but depressed and void of any expression. It
is
Khotan have exhausted
clear that places like
their old
sap and can be rejuvenated only by a radical reconstruction.
The Chinese sit behind the clay walls show no desire to cooperate with the [
194
]
of the Chinese city.
population.
They
They remain
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR accidental newcomers,
ments
A
From
become dusty and brains have become
Life has
to help.
dusty.
and do not think of making any improve-
flash of vigorous lightning
is
needed.
afar appears the silhouette of light gray
from
grieves one to depart
this
remarkable range
Kwen
—
it
lun.
It
grieves one
Himalayas are again receding.
to realize that the
Again we have
guard of
a
five
soldiers.
It
is
known
not
whether we are guarding them or whether they are guarding us.
Karakash darya
thin
ice.
burning.
The morning Buds
are
Han Chen
the sun
that
we
already
is
Beside the road perch gray-
Again Zawa.
passed nine wayside towers.
says smiling,
Khotan thinks
of
midday
cold but by
is
on the branches.
We
crested larks. Ts’ai
frozen and the horses break through the
is
with a toothless mouth, “The Taotai
will return again to
Such a
Khotan.
stupid official!”
But
we
now
all
are again in the desert.
so
much
from us because
Again the purple
of the evening
The caravan with our belongings
sands; again bonfires. delayed,
officials are far
thoughts of stupid
and we wait quite complicate
colored feltings.
at ease as
do not
life
On
the sands are
it
stationed with us to
was apparent
He
moon and the human poison.
said,
opium
the chief protector of
bek and
“Of
course,
a statue
is
.
.
it
is
In the eve-
officer
Ts’ai
who were Han Chen
very bad, but to
erected.”
silence of the night
of the
with
that the
smoked opium. George asked
reprimand them.
many-
of flame, fiery and courageous,
whirl out toward the endless long evening clouds. ning, in Zawa,
much
though these things which
exist.
The gay tongues
is
And
the light
were again permeated
.
January 29th
dawn we ourselves had again to arouse the whole caraTimur Bey went away somewhere and proved himself a
Before van.
sluggard.
I
began to
call
alongside the tents in Tibetan, “Long, [
195
]
—
long, long”
—
On
the people.
and began that
is
it
as
Again the
the traces of light
become more
wearisome
the twilight
unknown shall
dull
in all directions.
snow
a
The
It
silvery tones
The snowy mountains toward and more
In
tired.
message from the desert from the back of an
At eight
Nystrom
Here, awaiting us
According
under a
to his tales,
officials.
and insolent changing of
instability
•
•
•
we
the Swedish
is
with the Chinese
as ours
a
Well,
o’clock, in the darkness,
(in Chinese, Liseti).
such cases
same hypocritical
the
But the sands are
varied.
have seldom become so
moon, we enter Pialma.
many
But
doves.
camel: “In Pialma the water has dried up.”
missionary,
seems
ready to
is
mazar with
are everywhere.
We
as before.
—the
Again
desert.
ethereal
go somehow.
he had
with a big horn came out
the miller notifying the peasants that he
have become more severe. left
man
the hillock, a
blow a sustained note
to
grind grain.
now
Tibetans cry early in the morning, rousing
as the
The
decisions.
•
January goth
The
Around
fog descends.
us
the bluish-white fog
is
Sometimes the sands assume
circular plateau of the sands.
we
are
going along a very
bur\hans, thin abrupt
still
plateau with rare
low
ton of a donkey.
Each one
of
line
Here, half-ruined towers
them
in forty minutes.
ten
li
apart.
The waves
on the horizon.
plateau
Half-covered,
bushes.
little
flat
What
a
But
sculptural character or resemble the shell of a pearl.
to-day
and the
One can
of the sand
lies
potais
the skele-
—stick
out.
easily cross a potai
merge
into an even
could disturb the monotony of
this
?
In the desert of Khotan, a rumor reached us about the well-
known
traveler, Kosloff.
They
say that
when
Kosloff was in
Karashahr, there was a “horrible dragon” living there, but the courageous Russian bogatyr conquered the dangerous dragon, conjured him, and sealed
him [
in a glass jar.
196]
By
this
act the
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR whole
district
They speak
was saved.
of the buried cities
A
they point with their hands toward Takla-Makan.
and
sort of
reverence and superstitious fear resound as they pronounce the
name
They go from Pialma
of caravans.
files
In this direction are spread two narrow
of the great desert.
nothing
And no
else.
And no
sounds.
dust winds into a blue curtain.
And here is And the pearly
for fuel. colors.
Like ancient catafalques the
mafas proceed rhythmically and the purple wheels slowly turn.
The
from the wind he has donned the most amazing yellow
protection
Whence
cape with the longest red cloak. are buried
To
some thousands of
the left the
file
this
invention?
of a caravan departs.
they go to the Tibetan lakes for orable meeting!
walks boldly.
From
His
gait
afar, is
is
Yes,
it
in the desert.
he tell
is
meet.
Where here
to?
This
is
Yes, so
is
this
is
A
They
He
will
shows
toward
us.
go anywhere,
all his teeth,
We
A
cap with ear-laps.
all
and they
Wherefrom
tongue?
One
Wherefrom,
with
start
to
Chang-thang;
And
Wherefore
united valiant step?
this
the courage of lonely marches
this passing friend
alone
find mutual acquaintances.
that brings us so close to the Ladakis?
common
gray
“Djuli, Djuli,” he greets.
him whither each one went. it
is,
memman. He
another through Kokyar; another was freezing in Sanju.
what
it
another
silhouetted a small
stretches out his hand.
attracted
it
not that of a Sart; and a Chinese does
a Ladaki.
We
and he
to gleam,
And
is
And
salt.
not go solitary through the desert. cloak.
In
years.
the direction straight to Tibet, to Chang-thang.
We
As
red cloak of the Chinese officer shows flame-colored.
?
We
wanted
to
keep
us.
January 31st
wind and fog the vivid morning glows radiantly. far as Chuda; the people ask us to defer the pass to
After the
We
go
as
Guma for
two
days.
We shall [
do
this.
i97]
The Chinese department
ALTAI-HIMALAYA of the caravan disintegrated
Chen
and became
his gloves
Altogether
it
was again apparent
his
Chang was
butterflies.
bed because
Han Chen
up is
excellently
carefully preoccupied beside
The
the Sarts.
and
soldiers
And
in caps resembled anything except warriors. their
march,
proper Chinese bed has to look like a moun-
a
Sung boldly attacked
tain.
lost
soldier lost his
to us, that, for a
Ts’ai
col-
Sung
road.
The Chinese
the Chinese are absolutely unfit.
mounted
Tang-ke-chang
somewhere on the
irritated.
Han
the fourth day Ts’ai
already had the appearance of a corpse.
lapsed and even remained
horse.
On
first.
officers
the guns with
muzzles hermetically stuffed-up and with the triggers bound
are transformed
true there are
would run
from an
no robbers
active apparatus into a symbol.
here, but in
at sight of the first
Again we find side of each
any case
organized column.
hidden some such
is
troop
this entire
From
the bluish-white spots of snow.
bar\han
It
the north
light, fragrant spot.
Assuredly the snow gives to the ground an especial fragrance.
—
One cannot believe that to-day is the last day of January spring. The Turkis are working better to-day, and for this Poor ones
receive a sheep.
—they
appreciate every token.
parently the proprietor of the caravan
is
pressing them.
what kind
?
Gegen
at the It is
verily,
of a “ladder of octopi”
is
this
is
it
is
they
Ap-
And
again angry
Chinese. pleasant to it is
February
Guma
come
spring.
I
to the
encampment
Yes, yes,
before dark.
have been painting.
ist
Bazaar.
formations.
We
At times
of stupas or towers.
marched through some it
There
the impression of shores there were a sea.
seemed is
as
fantastic
though these were remains
more snow. The white
and between them
So convincing
[198]
is
sand
it
seems
slopes give as
though
the impression of the sea
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR that one has to
no such water
Again
is
one’s self that in the desert there are
surfaces.
“prepared” for us a dusty garden; again beks and
We
soldiers.
remind
in spreading
had hardly succeeded
our tents before
Our impression of him is better than that of The Amban knows about our Khotan the one in Khotan. He wonders troubles. He is indignant at the Khotan officials. the
Amban
came.
can prohibit a painter from working and confirms the
how one
fact that the cult.
road to Tun-huang through the desert
for the “T’ai-T’ai” *
And
themes: In
Guma
Kansu.
Urumchi
In
outdoors as
it
we do
here.
Kashgar there are Karashahr.
Amban
is
it
In
summer;
very cold;
Guma
it
it
hotter than in
is
impossible to
is
the horses are not
we
his nine-year-old son.
go away.
And George
his return visit.
sit
good but
knew without him.
also
in
There
is
a
With
the
Afterward they put father and
son into a vividly-colored two-wheeled conveyance all
go on
horses and the best pacing horses are in
tall
All this
now
is
to
diffi-
conversation turns to childish
very hot in
is
very
would be impossible
it
The
such a road for two months.
is
mafa
—and
has again to go on horseback to pay
crowd
Above
at the gates.
the clay
The soldiers are To-morrow we shall
walls a mass of heads in woolly caps peer out. noisily
whipping the uninvited
spectators.
In Cholak
stop in Selyak instead of Cholak.
all
the water has
dried up.
The evening ends with Chinese paper lanterns arrives. circle is
young
the old his
man; he
A
procession with
Before the gates of the garden, a close
formed and they begin
woman and
dances.
to dance.
First,
an old man, a
a camel.
The young woman runs away from
catches her
and the camel decoratively shakes
woolly neck.
Then
the dance of the ship accompanied by a song.
In a red
paper boat swings “the beauty,” and the boatman, in a role like *
T’ai-T’ai— lady. [
199
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Charon,
rowing
is
at the
bow
Afterwards dragons
of the boat.
and horsemen on paper horses. They sing: “As in the heaven are being born the
stars, so
from the
not subtle but there
It is
common
nothing
is
emerging the waters.”
earth, are
or insolent about
The
Voices of grown-ups mingle with clear young voices.
it.
darkness of the night
is
with the movements of a simple
filled
and not unruly crowd. February 2nd
A
The
wintry white desert.
abruptly
commences
low snowy
hills.
Guma
after
On
On
Bazaar.
account of the water
caravans, with a
An
gray sky.
Selyak
as these.
few gnarled
silent desert.
Moldavak
—who
A
camels, half a dozen dogs and
Nothing
here strange information reaches us about Khotan. alias
to stop in
a simple clay serai for
the frightened children of the proprietor.
—
plain
have not yet had
amidst the
trees
Some
eastern wind.
is
flat
the horizon are
we had
We
Selyak at one o’clock in the afternoon.
such short crossings
A
torrents are frozen.
else.
And
Karken Bey
looked so remarkably like a European,
proclaimed himself a Persian
citizen,
but proved to be a director
Ottoman bank and a Catholic. This is, verily, a combination. In his workshop they are imitating carpets,
of the
strange follow-
Museum. With he connected? And in what
ing the ones found in the editions of the British
what firm
in
London
or Paris
is
antique shops does one encounter his imitations?
At from back,
the bazaar in
Guma
their faces
order to see us better.
is
in
put together like
the
a
women
lifted
back their
The
veil,
veils
thrown
\o\oshni\ (Slavonic headgear).
Probably the form of some \o\oshni\s developed from the raised veil.
The bek
in
Guma
is
even have to use make-up.
an absolute “Sadko” and he does not
For
all
the operas of Rimsky-Korsa-
koff there are characters ready made.
In the road the soldiers are telling our T’sai [
200
]
Han Chen
the
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR reason
why
their horses are so poor.
ernment twenty-five or
They
or ten.”
all
end
are speaking about the
Somehow
to the arrested one,
had
murder
the gov-
pay
of the
fifteen
Kashgar
the murderer hastened
without the
of the
trial
Gov-
Everywhere are mercenary motives of some kind.
ernor-General.
We
officials bill
thirty sars, but they themselves
Titai by the Taotai of Khotan. to put an
“The
to leave
Chang
Guma. He
in
an example of the destructive
effect of
collapsed completely
As soon
opium.
as the
smoker, from out his smoky den, comes into vigorous conditions of nature, he falls apart like a card house.
The water
in Selyak
is
weak
like
Again we
be ugly looking and unsavory.
Not
far off
stakes.
I
is
a lonely
coffee.
The
tea turns out to
are setting
tomb with two animal
up the
tails
tents.
on the bent
have been painting.
We are reading Vladimirtzeff’s description of the life of Jenghis Khan. A fine, vital savant Vladimirtzeff. Recently he has is
published several books and
needed for the time
!
It is
all
of such virile content!
a pity that
Rudnief
is
silent.
to translate the description of the life of Jenghis ica.
This enterprising fundamental
February
spirit will
Khan
And
so
One ought for
Amer-
be valued there.
yd
During the night the caravans
pass by
ring out as a complete orchestra.
—the
bells of the
camels
Finally one caravan walks
From morning on there a wind. The desert is completely white. The winter has started and through the entire long crossing we go as in the far north. We pass an old langar with the ruins of towers. The low trees stand out in silhouette and we can see Ak-kem — a small village with a few little huts. Our caravan is very much delayed and we sit and wait once more. against our tent
and almost crushes
it.
is
Again endless
tales
about the cowardice of the Chinese colonel
T’ung-ling); about the treachery of Taotai; about the stupidity
[201
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Amban. Never and nowhere
of the
unanimous condemnation of the it
down;
it
officials.
It is
The Chinese department
horse.
pletely without luck.
E.
This
eight to four.
must have been
I.
com-
is
has been trotting on her horse from
astonishing.
is
twice
fell
of the caravan
set
com-
will have
Sung
officials.
its
such
even boring to
new China
this;
change the character of
pletely to
from the
cannot continue like
we heard
before have
In some former time she
a rider.
From somewhere
they are bringing very beautiful feltings, as In
coverings for the floor.
complicated mosaic
Khotan we saw none Better than
design.
koshmas and chintzes
A
like these.
Truly,
the carpets.
The
are the best of the local industries.
designs of the chintzes are the same as in Russia in the seventeenth
century or earlier.
I
have been painting.
February 4th
From Ak-kem the
snowy
disappear.
to
desert.
Karghalik
They
Somehow
is
say that in a day the
from Selyak
the strip
Maybe
always exceptionally snowy.
range of mountains
a short but a cold crossing along
—other reasons
peculiarity of the local places
is
it
is
snow to
Karghalik
is
the influence of
some
The
other
are not apparent.
that silver
will again
and even gold become
absolutely black; probably the consistency of the soil contributes
Gradually along the extended outskirts
to this.
Karghalik Bazaar. Alas! Srinagar.
We
The customary Amban.”
We
severe smell
it
recalls ill-smelling
why it is so dirty here, worse than in Guma. reply: “Amban pu hao.” That means a “mean
ask
We
and look
had
to resign ourselves to our operetta escort, the
for a garden outside the city.
tary house with a garden.
of the
its
enter the
receive quarters in the very bazaar itself amidst unbeliev-
able dirt.
beks,
By
we
Khotan Taotai end.
We
found a
To-morrow, the gloomy Will [
202
it ]
be better?
One
soli-
possessions
thing this
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR criminal could not spoil: he could not contaminate the air of the
A
desert.
wonderful prelude
The day ends artists
all
maiden
of a
resembling the balalaika.
And
This
lanterns are not bad. lit
dow
Give
less goiters.
of light
The
stilts.
natural
strings
could find sugges-
fragment of creation for a
desert.
win-
to this people at least a small
and the vehement
fire
of the hearts will flare up. •
•
•
•
a
Bolm
a
the servants in red with paper
little
up the deadness of the
Here are
on
accompanied by
is
DiaghilefT and
tions for their compositions.
minute
the dance
the boat are
The same Russian dance concerning
reveal themselves.
young man’s courtship
is
air is brisk.
The dragon and
again with dances.
But best of
seen again.
The
to spring.
February yth
The
Karghalik said farewell poorly. appeared to be
We
idiots.
could not get any horses; finally
one bek appeared on a wild of E.
I.
The blow
fell just
was softened by the
beks, stationed with us,
colt
which kicked Olla
on the leg of E.
they force upon us these beks and soldiers?
mained soldiers
in
in
Karghalik
—many
after the
murders.
Karghalik are bad.
mean.”
as a servant.
We The
(They pronounce
The snow
murder of
ask our
should
Yesterday a
happened, he
the
Amban
salt
re-
by the the beks
“Amban
answer:
stopped at once beyond Karghalik.
We passed two bazaars. We passed teries
it
Amban
snowy expanse ended; but then the white
it
Besides discomfort
Tsung why even
stereotyped
here not
it
As
why
truly,
and expense they do not contribute anything. Chinese came to be hired
horse
But happily
I.
And,
Gilgit soft boots.
— the
is
but Ambal.)
Apparently the
marshes
started.
wretched mosques and ceme-
and we entered the long Posgam bazaar.
We
do not
stay
in the tents but in the house of the elder, a big house
with dark
on the
floor; the
little
table
rooms.
Again many-colored
and armchairs
are
even T
feltings are
upholstered with
203]
leather.
Of
ALTAI-HIMALAYA course this house was pointed out to us by an incidental Pun-
from the bazaar because
jabian
When
from moving.
deprived
end,
tions
We
wilderness?
all
the beks only hindered us
will these hopelessly
of
have
monotonous
and deteriorating
color
Of
just passed a forge.
in
habita-
and
filth
course
it
would
be wonderful for the details of a setting of the Nieblungen, but as
an agricultural instrument
Take away
like bellows.
cannot be of any worth.
men and
holes are half-naked
little
it
In the
children blowing into toy-
the excitement of the caravan
and every-
thing will sink into a complete paralysis.
February 6th
Almost the
entire crossing to
Yarkand
is
amidst the peaceful
For a moment the rumbling surface of Yarkand
borders of oases.
For a
darya glimmered.
moment
the colorful crossing
on
rafts
amidst the icy shores flashed out, amidst the gathering of horses, camels, mules and mafas; and afterward the mazars and clay huts.
And
road.
Thus up
a house
is
the heavy-topped trunks of the willows beside the to
Yarkand
prepared for
up
itself,
us, in the
bazaar
itself;
but there appears
They
a deliverer in the shape of a Ladaki Aksakal.
town and
out of
quarters for our
in a quiet
garden
men, with red
we
carpets and,
most important,
From Posgam
— was the salutation of the Punjabi “Urus Kharosh.”
our farewell here
is
lead us
find a white house with
with the Lhasa language of the Aksakal himself.
And
Again
to the clay walls.
We
the familiar Tibetan language.
missionaries.
We
visit
cure our old man, the Chinese;
to different tales of the local customs;
how
we
Chinese
the Swedish listen
again
officials
are
driving the population toward complete ruin, after which they easily
govern the pauperized pariahs.
English Consul. Asiatic
bank
He
invites us to
also offers three
A
letter
came from
stop with him.
rooms in Kashgar.
[204]
The
the
local
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR 'February yth
A A
day in Yarkand.
Our
strange thing; absolutely
people are eating mutton.
beg
all
to continue
with
Silence.
Even the
us.
Chinese soldiers of the escort say they would joyfully go further
with
an
us.
A
officer,
they
all
Ghinese captain entered our service as a sweeper; also
beg us; so that
until
we
He makes
a
Urumchi we
reach
We
strange international combination.
Amban.
Amban;
an Armenian, the major-domo of the former
better
paid a
impression
shall
visit to
than
go
in a
the local
Khotan
the
“rulers.”
Han Chen began to relate the circumstances Khotan captivity, the Amban became sincerely indignant.
When of our
our Ts’ai
But the most remarkable thing the
Amban,
letters
is
that,
according to the words of
from Peking about our passage were received
everywhere with requests to help us along. nant.
How
The Amban
is
indig-
did the Khotan people dare to disregard the order
from Peking? Again we pass through bazaars
On
tion:
the doorways of the
as in
Khotan.
yamen, instead of a
A
slight varia-
catlike dragon,
there are pictures of a series of warriors with swords. o’clock the soldiers
red
umbrella,
and the beks come
peaceful tea-party.
the
Then
we
agreeable compliments,
for Ts’ai
Han Chen. The
Chinese theater follows.
part.
by a
follows
that he could
arrange a good lunch because of our hasty departure.
many
three
to us and, preceded
Amban himself. The Amban apologizes
arrives
At
A
a
not
After
Chinese doctor comes
sentries stand in black turbans.
They
A
are trying out the horses.
peaceful medieval nonsense as in the paintings of Vinckboons.
From somewhere rumors in
creep into
Yarkand about some events
China; about the movements of Feng, about the closing of
banks in Peking; about the actions of the old dynasty!
But
no one knows anything and one cannot understand a thing.
[
205
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA February 8th
Buddha was opposed
and was put
try to vindicate himself
him but
the time to liberate said that never
and
Then came would not come out.
the prisoner
a quiet place,
where they fed one and did not
noise,
With
disturb his meditation.
did not
into prison.
and nowhere did he have such
where there was no
man
He
In a crowd an old lama was arrested.
esting case.
labor
In Darjeeling not long ago there was an inter-
intensive work.
He
He demanded
to prisons.
difficulty they
persuaded the old
to leave the prison.
The lama
“Do
says:
not beat people but
This remark
out their penalty.”
them
let
work
justly
provoked on seeing that the
is
beks are striking people and are planting furrows of hatred, protests
At
and humiliation.
we do
the time of our departure
makes
itself
in size
a
much
better impression than
and more varied
and walls give
a
in
certain
beyond the tops of the
its
Khotan;
and even the
trade;
left
the
bigger
is
And
there,
—the ridge of
appear the mountains
Kashgar, which does not leave our
it
clay towers
decorative impression.
trees,
Yarkand
not escape a fray.
whole way.
And
everything becomes beautified; and tiny ice-covered lakes and blue rivers and
brown
We
of rocky mountains.
own
planet
love the mountains so
has started to
the Chinese.
We
Our
announced
Han
to demoralize
have to use severe measures.
shall
We are standing behind the boundary of a little will be
much!
appeared that Ts’ai
It
smoke opium and has begun
the rest of the caravan.
It
background
would be very mountainous!
Again trouble with
Chen
hillocks appear against a blue
that every one that
village,
Kokrabat.
smokes opium
will be
discharged immediately. •
•
•
*
•
February gth
Again the mazars, the graves with banners. [
206
]
Little
mosques
TAKLA MAKAN— KAR ASH AHR for the
How much
Namaz.
desert
on
before
a
more touching
Namaz in the than the Namaz
the
is
rug before the face of heaven,
a little
Very humble, these by-way
barren clay wall.
mosques, with crooked walls and toylike
we have
Where
turrets.
did
For the whole
the creativeness of this country disappear to?
time
clay
seen only one filigree earring, not bad, and a
couple of silver buttons.
women
In the sun,
on donkeys with
bright green and scarlet che\mens, are gracefully riding by. It
seems
It is
as
though there are fewer
A man is
must be other
rides past us
reasons.
with a falcon in his hands.
you sometimes have
We are followed We remember how
to shoot
them
along the Kara-kum sands
and pebbles gives
of chipped stones
At
—meaning
falcon
by
flocks
in
Mon-
to rid yourself of the
We
are
going
the black sands.
A
layer
innumerable flocks of crows that attack the horses.
the desert.
The
the favorite sport here.
still
meddling crows and ravens.
golia
Aside from the quality of
growth of the thyroid gland.
the water there
of
Khotan.
an interesting problem to investigate the cause of that mon-
strous
hunt
goiters here than in
a grayish pearly surface to
the left the masses of mountains continue.
strange to think that beyond these mountains
is
It is
already Russian
Turkestan, and that these ranges end in the heights of Pamir. It is
the
day, after three months,
first
beautiful, colorful
and varied.
And
when
the desert
is
the blue sky adorns
with an especially subtle design of feathery white cloudlets.
really itself
Upon
snow glitters. The pink footblue mist out of which emerges the outline
the crests of the mountains the hills
disappear into a
of the ridges.
The men that
is
good
A
bright day.
are anticipating the visit to Kashgar. in
Kashgar
is
The good houses The good horses are
called foreign.
The good boots are foreign. The good carts are foreign.
are foreign.
foreign.
Everything
—inns.
or three abandoned langars
[207]
And
We
are
passing two
in clouds of darken-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA we
ing dust
considered
is
A
clay squares of huts. it
big old
Moslem
The
The
The
him go
to let
soon
as
as
We
possible.
afar
holes of the old
Han
We
whole night.
the
at
silent
From
people complain about Ts’ai
man smoked opium
old
arrived
cemetery.
looks like a whole big city of red clay.
graves are black.
have
already
crossing
half-abandoned place with
a strange,
is
The
camp.
will
one but we
long
a
Kizil
two-thirty.
where we
enter Kizil
Chen.
decided
cannot retain in the
caravan such an unpleasant example; Sung holds out better than
He does not smoke and shows resourcehim why the little finger on his left hand appears he was a terrible gambler who lost
the rest of the Chinese.
We
fulness.
asked
was amputated.
became poor, and
everything, self
It
cut off his
little
linger,
in order to
pay
he him-
and thus we have one gambler, one
murdered Amban, one from
officer of the
his debts,
the caravan of the
murdered American, Langdon; one a confirmed smoker of
opium
—quite
variety.
a
Ladaki, Ramsana, adorned himself to such an extent that
Our
he even pinned
to his chest
the greatest desire of
good
made
be
He
horse.
is
out of him.
Ramsana
to carry a gun,
is
His father
is
a
and
Moslem and
his
ride a
man
can
mother
marks the lamas recognized
of
But
a garter.
eighteen years old and a useful
By some kind
Buddhist.
two buckles from
in
a
him
the reincarnated dead abbot of the monastery, but his father, a confirmed
Moslem, interfered with •
•
•
his
monastic career.
•
February ioth Mist; the north
we
wind and dense clouds
of mist.
For long
journeyed through sandy corridors and deep creeks.
long time
we have
Then gray brown
tone.
salt It
For a
not seen such an amount of all-pervading sand.
marshes appeared and low hillocks of a bluish-
became more
beautiful,
[208]
and when we approached
R
TAKLA M AK AN— K AR ASH AH Kingul darya with high shores, with bridge, with
dams and with
became quite
lovely.
We
drawings.
A house was We stopped
frozen high hanging
a
a cluster
and
of houses
walls,
it
Such landscapes one finds on old Chinese
entered into the long bazaar of Yangi Hissar.
prepared in the bazaar and
The
Swedish Mission.
the
in
as usual
it
was not good. was
conversation
about Stockholm, about the curing of goiter with iodine and
movement of Feng toward Sinkiang. They say that behind the grave of Mohammed
the
empty grave prepared
for
ready for the coming of the Messiah.
and
now
Every one
and of
his
murdered
Khotan coincide except
the stories of
Here they
heading.
two
somewhere.
And now
days,
and that then the
In the papers
of crucifixion.
Here continue
ruins.
we
hear
tales
built
by the ruler this
tragedy
and treachery, the
for murderers.
The
sale
hasten-
a
Buddhist temple.
Buddhism
existed
;
but
it is
did not happen to hear previously about these
That means
is
remained on
body was thrown out
Kashgar are the ruins of
that in
mazar of Miriam and
We
crucifixions
be, because in these regions
The evening
his
ruler
necessary.
is
say that near
interesting that
In general
was described of
little
and generous remuneration
ing of evolution
They recount
trial.
mazar (the grave)
stands empty.
must
own way.
for the details of the be-
say that the crucified
the cross for
of people
in his
son.
the medieval details of this murder, without
it
second
Hindu merchants came to give us their “salaam” us upon our arrival. They show us photographs
of the crucified Titai
So
an
the
to greet
They
his
is
In Ispahan, in Persia, they keep a saddled white horse
coming.
Just
time of
the
in
Jesus,
there
Kashgar there are mosques and the
the ruins of
Buddhism!
spent with the Swedish folk.
about the richness of
than three per cent of the area
is
[209]
this
A
quiet supper.
country where not more
cultivated.
In the near-by
ALTAI-HIMALAYA mountains
and
iron, copper, silver
dered Titai intended to
these possibilities have again been
sunken in darkness.
nth
February
We
now
developments, but
certain
start
The mur-
coal are found.
The
bid farewell to the hospitable family of Anderson.
seven-month-old Sven stared with his blue eyes
at E.
her finger tightly and did not want to
We spoke about
let
her go.
I.,
caught
many
the fertility of the district where, besides varied vegetables, curative herbs: ricinus, licorice, digitalis
One can imagine how
and
others, are
growing
the plain
would develop under
the tractors of Ford.
They speak about
the absence of forests
in these localities; but
two
wild.
are short) there
is
Or it
which does not
to plant
is
radium
whole spaces with
trunks of former forests.
take with us
below the
best samples.
It is
There
has only to collect are just like spring.
is it
that,
oil?
how
easy
in these places as well as the
only necessary to apply the
least
district will
become unrec-
plenty of water during the
summer; one
in reservoirs.
Now
in
February the days
Only December and January
cold air of the night
would only not
At
is
While excavating, great
trees.
and resourcefulness and the
ognizable.
We
mountains?
in the
stumps have often been found
diligence
fall
crossings
not be that here in the neighborhood there
it
that there
is
march away (and the
a wonderful store of coal.
a piece of this product
And may
days’
is
of a refreshing nature.
fear everything
new and
if
are cold. If
The
the Chinese
their officials
were
chosen according to merit and not according to their capacity for robbing!
Otherwise, whence
richment of the
Ambans and
manifestation of assiduity
enrichment of the
We stopped in
is
officials,
this
incomprehensibly speedy en-
Taotais?
By such means every
only for the ends of the most speedy
immersed
in
opium and gambling.
Yaberchat, a small place four hours from Kashgar.
[210]
R
TAKLA MAKAN— KARASHAH We
could easily have
made
the route to
but on account of the pack horses
we had
among heavy-topped willows and
Kashgar
in
one day,
to stay in the outskirts,
clay walls.
February 12th
low brush, naked willows and
Mist,
ings over ice-covered streams.
The
Kashgar.
There
walls are
First
more imposing than the Yarkand
more verve and motion
is
bumpy road, with crosswe pass the new city of a
in the bazaar.
two
two
a distance of about
is
Prisoners in
Between the new and
chains are begging alms for their food. the old city
Toward
p’o-t’ai.
Consul awaits us for breakfast while the house of the being
is
us ride
red Chaprassi” from the English Consul.
“vividly
made
ready.
The
British
walls.
local
The bank
Consul and his wife inquire In the bank they
sympathetically about the affairs at Khotan.
speak “about the character” of the Chinese administration.
seems that the Khotan Taotai
and nobody
The
is
is
known
in the
whole province
The caravan
astonished at his action.
It
arrives.
things are brought in.
February 13th
The Chinese are
awakened by the
the wall
was
it
came.
we
New
Year!
Major Gillan, the
Behind
We
thought
British Consul,
It
appears that they are both Scotch.
morning we
rockets.
and shots are heard.
fire.
and
Among
his wife
the Scotch
long ago found sympathetic people, and these belong to a
Moslem who
The Ladaki Aksakal comes.
lived for a long time in
He
translator of the consulate comes.
of
and
a
fine type of Scotch clans.
a
o’clock in the
noise of firecrackers
a pillar of flame
is
At four
smoking
selves the
of
opium and hemp
Lhasa and Shigatse.
He
is
The
complains of the increase
hashish.
The
rich permit
them-
luxury of using expensive opium, and the poor ones
dope themselves with homemade hashish. [211
]
The
possibility
of
ALTAI-HIMALAYA earning a livelihood
is
Formerly about
very poor here.
thirty
thousand people went each year to other countries for their living.
And ficials
again endless
by
When
pillage.
—who
you
of-
are seated in a peaceful Chinese
remember about the robbers
restaurant in America,
and Ambans
about the enrichment of Chinese
tales
—the Taotais
are keeping the people in complete torpor.
Let the sight-seeing motors
to
Chinatown remind you how mil-
lions of people are perishing in the darkness of ignorance.
The director of the branch of the new wave of information. Each part money, which
is
local
bank, A., comes.
of the province has
its
accepted with reluctance in the neighboring
the value of one-third of a sar; in Kuldja, they have their
which the population
quarter of a lan
As
ing parts.
is
calls
At
roubles.
obtained by tearing the
that,
is
under Ians of
it
some
pieces of
which one-half
But when
former value, one pastes
its
One may
receive
an advertisement of a
sale of
any kind of paper.
consists of
half or a
monetary symbols
a result of such operations the
necessary to give the symbol
own
into correspond-
bill
are turned into tatters, deprived of any designation. it
own
In Kashgar are sars; in Urumchi, Ians, which have
provinces.
Ians,
A
soap or something as unexpected.
We
see the
Swedish missionary, Palmberg.
In spite of the
medical activity of the Swedish Missions, they are periodically subject to persecution
on the part of the
Recently they
officials.
even had temporarily to discontinue the work, and yet they are the only doctors in the whole large
garrison
nowhere
is
there a doctor.
in the
The
Not even
district.
inhabitants
local
world do people know what
abandoned Chinese Turkestan, handful of ignoramuses.
left as
it
They beseech
is
us:
at the
us that
tell
is
occurring in
to the
plunder of a
“Write and
tell
to
the world about the deterioration of an entire country into a
savage state.”
Again prisoners
in chains are passing,
[212]
begging
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR alms.
This custom was
to see
it
in usage
now
common
in the fifteenth century, but
astonishes one.
February 14th
We is
are sitting in semi-inactivity because the Chinese
being celebrated for several days.
can Consul
in Calcutta, dear
which were not
of the year
Mr. Jenkins, figured out
The
tions of the
the Ameriall
the days
affected by the holidays of the different
here they celebrated the European
Chinese.
Year
There remained only fifty-two working days.
local nationalities.
And
remember how
I
New
New
Year and
now
the
various explanations hinder greatly the calcula-
Moslem, Chinese, Tibetan
months.
—
these calcu-
all
late different dates.
A
comes and
Sart
Kucha
says that near
the inhabitants are
destroying the remains of the Buddhist temples. is
that
and
many
travelers
and
frescoes,
They
these guests. frescoes
it is
and Chinese
.
The
.
.
reason
are interested in these ruins
people to accommodate
difficult for the
built a great fire within the ruins,
were destroyed. One may suspect
and the
also another cause
Whether by
ancient iconoclasm of the Moslems.
all
this or
— the some
other means, soon these small remnants of Tokhars and Uigurs will also disappear.
February iyth
we visit The yamen
In the morning good-nature.
The
the Taotai.
has a
more
There
not see the tattered soldiers.
impression
livable aspect.
is
no crowd
Tao, the manager of the foreign department,
Of
is
One
of beks.
is
recommendation
astonishment
are
found
at the actions of
excellent.
Khotan.
They
And
does
Mr.
also present.
course, our passports appear to be absolutely correct.
letters of
one of
The
they express
will immediately
send a telegram to the Governor-General about the return of
our arms.
During the day we saw the Swedish missionary, [213]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Torquist, and
many
inhabitants of the local colony.
to notice that for a long time
curious
It is
now, the Governor-General has
attempted to leave Urumchi with his pillaged goods.
But the
neighboring province does not permit him to pass without the
payment
many
of a tribute of
vans, comprising several confiscated.
Now
to foreign banks.
the Titai
and
wagons with
the “dignitary”
One
Thus, one of
millions.
is
silver,
has already been
trying to transfer his capital
also should note that after the
his son, in
his cara-
murder of
Kashgar, their families suffered com-
The earrings were ripped out of They brought a photo of the crucified
plete robbery.
the ears of the
son’s wife.
Titai.
look upon this brutality committed without
thought of responsibility!
from Aksu
The
is
trial
Friends,
and without
Incidentally, they say that the Taotai
already collecting soldiers to proceed to Khotan.
pillaged goods
do not
lie
in the
same place
for long.
February 16th
The
Taotai arrived.
Boring conversations about the cult of
ancestors, about astrology, about the weather.
photographs of
my
paintings.
He
said that
He
looked
he had already
graphed to Urumchi about permission for us to proceed. permissions for each step recall the most brutal times and
bored by
it,
to the last degree.
Even
to
we again observed the local types. faces. Many more beggars and cripples some gold.
The Kirghiz
Hindus and Turki accept
are bringing it
These
we
are
Passing through the
These are very cruel
city
rupees.
tele-
complain about the rude-
ness of the officials, one needs permission.
must exchange the remaining
the
at
than in Yarkand.
We it
We
are advised to take
from the mountains.
gladly.
February ijth
The day tarantas.
A
for
new
the exchange driver
of
money.
The
selection
—a Cossack refugee from Orenburg. [214]
of a
An
TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH AHR instructive scene in the bazaar.
A
mullah with
The
the people to the mosque.
The enthusiasm
They
in the side-streets.
mosques
—are visited
more
expect
and many are hurrying
difficulty
say that Medresse
Even
rarely.
is
whip
lashes of the
backs, the shoulders, the faces.
evoked with
whip
a
chasing
strike the
for prayer
is
to hide themselves
— the
schools at the
in the wilderness, the people
and more profound forms of knowledge.
refined
•
•
•
•
•
February 18th
Not
from the
far
Of
rock, three windows.
LeCoq and
explored by
remnants of
found
The
Stein.
From below one
can distinguish
of especial note have been
objects
Death from
a dwelling place for her in the rock, but her destiny
on
wanted
and
a rope
in
it
was
a scorpion’s sting
In order to save her the king constructed
predicted for her.
princess
The
people adorn these caves with a legend:
old king had a daughter.
The
high in the
see,
course, these are the Buddhist caves,
No
frescoes.
there.
one can
village Artish,
a
to taste
some
was
fulfilled.
She drew up a basket
grapes.
venomous scorpion was hiding.
Fifteen miles eastward, in the middle of the cemetery, the
tomb
Mary
of
the mother of Issa
Why,
of the legend are slipping away.
nobody can
tell.
It is
pointed out.
is
just
same concerning
the
Mary
The in
details
Kashgar,
Are
Issa in Srinagar.
Nestorianism and Manicheism here
there not
some
Along whip in
the bazaar, Kadi, the judge, passes pompously, with a his
traces of
hand.
He
is
going
Of
to catch gamblers.
?
course,
the groups of gamblers quickly disperse and after the passing
of the “guard” they at once collect again. is
despoiling the population.
Opposite the entrance sweets.
On
of the gods.
one
who
is
the wall
Who
is
awaited.
We
Like opium, gambling
enter
with
New
a Chinese
dwelling.
Year’s offerings and
is
an
is
a vividly colored picture of the “ruler”
it?
altar
It is
Each
the
in his
[215]
same Gessar;
own way.
it
The
the
same
New
Year
is
ALTAI-HIMALAYA is
welcomed
precisely
almost Moslem,
is
we
also, life
see
Kuan
is
new and
And
ages). less
is
and
is
one more image the “Ruler
There are only two
intricate.
The
his guardian.
simple work, but very decorative.
not performed.
There,
belief.
“Ruler,” sitting at
In the forehead
The
a precious stone like a red star.
yard of a small temple. is
Kashgar which
in
watching the flame of a red candle.
of the “Ruler,” of
all
—The “Ruler”
the table,
Even
image.
Yin, the Mother of the World, and Man-long-
This image
of Gods.”
his
hidden the Far Eastern
is
(the synthesis of
figures
with
The temple
We
went
itself is closed.
Opposite the entrance
picture
is
into the
The
service
a stage for the Chinese
is
theater.
The
setting sun
immovable and
city,
Tumen
narrow ridge you go toward the sandy
side a
The
slopes. first
flooding the banks of
is
sight of
Along-
daria.
slopes.
Like a dead
breathless, stand the clay walls above these
trees are
naked.
what one may
One can
call a
see very far.
Central Asiatic
This
city.
is
the
And
not
under ill-smelling sheds of the narrow bazaars; not by the faces of lepers; but in the golden rays of the sun
and
movability of the walls you realize that Kashgar
in the imis
verily
an
old place.
February igth
Many
subterranean waters are in Kashgar.
the rivers
what
and the
like malaria.
rice fields gives a special
The
flooding of
kind of fever some-
There are widely varying symptoms: aching
of joints; sleepiness, pain in the extremities. It is
not easy to receive
money on checks from China.
were awaiting us since November, but
now
it is
Taels
already the end
of February and the post office delays handing over the money.
The money may, of They tell us that one
course, have been given out
of the local
ambans
on percentage.
refused, for a long time,
to transfer the collected taxes to the Governor-General, because
[216]
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR they were loaned out on percentage for the enrichment of the
Amban. They brought photographs rows of people with chopped cut tendons.
The
on time “to
whom
murdered
the
with
stars
of the victims “of justice”:
off fingers or soles of the feet
majority of them were unable or could not pay
Here
was necessary.”
are also photographs of
two ribbons
Titai in his full “glory” with
and with widespread
Here
legs.
crossed,
are also photographs
of the developments
of oil-wells, started by the Titai;
of the wives of Titai
and other
Old
local officials.
from America from October 30th through Peking.
months and
a half to reach us this
Apparently to find horses here
Yarkand.
little
hospital
is
better
group
letters It
came
took three
way.
is
still
more
At Dr. Yalovenko’s, we found
His
for us.
with
all
difficult
than in
drugs necessary
equipped than the one of the
Swedish Mission.
We
drink tea
Near the
stupa. cross
a
at the Gillans’;
we go with them
river the road starts to
to inspect a
become muddy.
narrow bridge and ascend amidst the
fantastic
We sand
formations created by water and earthquake.
Of course, here was the most ancient part of Kashgar; here may be found Buddhist traces. The stupa itself has become a formless mass and only the remnants of the bricks lying at the
bottom, reveal the construction.
Its
than the great stupa in Sarnath.
In reality there remains only
size
is
great; not smaller
the base, and the whole top cupola has disappeared. cult
among sand
masked ruins
slopes to distinguish ruins.
are buried
It is
How many
underneath the currents of
of such
rivers
under the sloping Kurgans, under the typical Asiatic cover. It
becomes cold toward evening.
And,
diffi-
and .
.
.
purple-silhouetted,
stands Kashgar with a Chinese temple on the wall of the city.
The as is
it
silhouette
is
not devoid of calmness and grandeur but this
is,
were, a false grandeur, because the mass of the silhouette
transformed into the fragility of clay and sand buildings.
[217]
Late
ALTAI-HIMALAYA George Chu, the Chinese
in the evening,
secretary of the British
Consul, arrives with the good news that a telegram from the Tu-t’u of
But
Urumchi has come, and
that
we
are permitted to leave.
Kashgar Taotai and the
in spite of the request of the
Consul, our two guns and three revolvers are
permission to paint
and Taotai
Chu
is
says:
teacher in Peking and
good message
to
and the
sealed
not even mentioned, although the Consul
distinctly asked about
smilingly
left
British
in the telegrams.
English
learned
“I I
it
have been glad to
Mr. George
from an American help and to bring a
an American Expedition.”
February 20th
We
prepare the caravan in a hurry, in order to leave more
quickly before the beginning of the spring thaw and before the flooding of the 1,800 miles.
river.
The
is
a big
Urumchi
to
get horses.
It is difficult to
Fergan where there
sent to
journey
good
a
is
All the best horses are
demand
for horses
from
Russia.
We mad
have
to discharge Ts’ai
Han Chen;
Musu; he
yesterday and beat the Ladaki
We
smoking.
go
to express
help in sending telegrams.
he became completely is
a victim to
opium
our gratitude to Mr. Gillan for his
I tell
him how
agreeable
to find
it is
such cultural regard for the tasks of our Expedition.
I
regret
that in spite of his representation neither the
arms nor the per-
him
to give us the text
mission to sketch have been given.
I
ask
of the telegrams that he sent, for inclusion in our diary.
exchange of rupees which rose in value to the
some
talk about the
sars.
There are rumors about the exchange of the current
a
new
Taoists
it
sars for
Nobody knows anything. Just as the missionary “The Chinese are born Confucians. They live as
currency.
Torquist says:
So
Then
and die Buddhists.”
much
is
We
should like to see real Chinese.
being spoken about the intensive work in Canton.
possible that there they
do not know about the dark [218
J
life
Is
of
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Chinese Turkestan?
Is it
possible that they
one robber usurps the place of another robber and not for the people’s welfare, not for
motives and personal enrichment?
“power”
— the
rich beks
— are
him
crucifies
but for personal
justice,
And
how
do not know
helpers
the
the
of
treading with whips on the bent
backs of the poor. •
•
•
•
•
February 21st All the good horses have been
impossible to find horses.
It is
Now
dispatched to Andijan to transport goods from abroad. they are
demanding one
precedented.
We
Urumchi we
will
is
1,800 miles.
Outside the Gissarlik
—a
We
city,
to
is
go
fifty-five
and
this
near the horse-market, is
is
cupola of a mazar, one’s moles
means
is
un-
that to It
will soon begin.
an interesting mazar,
said to belong to
a belief that if
price
days instead of forty.
must hurry because the thaw
mazar which
There
count.
will have to take arbas,
have
The
day for horses.
sar a
some Mongolian
one throws a piece of clay
at the
fall off.
February 2 3rd not easy to receive
It is
Since
November, the post
Mexican
dollars.
money through office
It is really
the Chinese post
has not been able to collect 1,600
ridiculous
when one knows
local general,
by commission of the Governor-General
ferring 10,000
pounds of “personal savings” through
We
went
to the Taotai to talk about our
mission to sketch.
office.
The Taotai came
that the is
trans-
here.
arms and the per-
to a resolution,
“Try
to
Our arms became rusted from dampness. When we pointed it out, we were told by the interpreter of the Consulate, “Do not make too much fuss about it.” Again we felt ourselves in a country not of paint and
justice,
that
if
if
the police prohibit
it,
then stop.”
but in a country of personal license.
Tu
We
were
also told
T’u (the Governor-General) will find us worthy then
[219]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA he will permit us our arms and the indifference is
is
needed
interesting to
possibility of
work.
Colossal
to accept seriously all these sentences.
know by what means and with what
It
apparatus
the Governor-General will investigate our “worthiness,” for the
work and cials is
for the arms.
.
.
evident to us without any special apparatus.
these depths of ignorance? that
But the “worthiness” of similar
.
we
To
cap the climax
As
out the revolvers.
February
usual, the visit
tales
sits
a warrior.
sits
nag from
a village.
A
Such hypocrisy!
cannon
When
drawn by two the
On
muzzle of the cannon
“An army” which went
if
horses.
the horses stop, they add one
more
forth 20,000 strong,
reached the battleground about
sars,
number. They count the Therefore,
is
On
a soldier.
an expense of 6,000,000
of caps.
ended with assurances that
about the movements of the Chinese army of Sin-
each one of them
2,000 in
stipulated
2 4th
kiang are interesting.
at
was
That means, we should not take
they had helped us very much.
also
Whence come
should not remove from the case containing the arms,
any more than were permitted.
The
it
offi-
there are
army by the number not enough “warriors” in the
size of the
The calculation of cavalry is by men and horses, or doubly. Nowhere is this forgotten province written about as it actually is. Unknowingly some of the travelers don a dress suit, when they visit the Taotai, but it is time to tell what really exists. It is time to speak simply, in the name of human dignity. One may consider “seriously” the surviving carts,
they put out caps on sticks.
customs of the inhabitants of the Solomon Islands, but a king-
dom
with 400,000,000 people cannot be looked upon in our times
from the point of view of ethnographical in every
way
country out of
and how
to help the true its
curiosities.
One ought
workers of China to bring the
tragi-comical situation.
We
do not know what
will be our further path, but the observations of the [
220
]
TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH AHR unembellished
quered
in
Sinkiang was con-
of Sinkiang appall us.
life
The
time by Mongols, Arabs, Chinese, Tibetans.
its
backs of the Sarts endured everything and they brought their salaams. •
m
m
•
•
February 25th If
you have
a
Chinese postal money-order,
that as yet
you have the money.
check
1,600
for
Mexican
does not
it
mean
China cannot even redeem
Whereas the
dollars.
local
a
bank
Friends, do not use
through Tashkent pays you immediately.
The letters are opened, many things do you; and money is not delivered to you. Again, one
the Chinese mail.
not
reach
has
to transport one’s consciousness to the
Solomon
Islands
and then
one can understand better the actions of the Sinkiang company.
And
here again the British Consul and his secretary, Chu,
must take
steps for us.
we
special favor,
We the
Washington or
Chu
which
our hope that
We
Paris Embassies.
Major and Mrs. Gillan.
We
to their personal influence, as a
finally receive that
express to Mr.
Khotan.
Thanks
is
common
one’s
we
will
right.
meet him
in
exchange greetings with
Truly, they have helped us to leave
ask each other where
we
shall
meet again.
February 2 6th
We
left.
In the
morning
the Consul with his wife
came
to say
good-by; the Secretary of the Consulate, Chu, the Director of the Bank,
We
Anokhin; Dr. Yalovenko; the family of
said good-by.
again?
We
We
sat for a while.
pass through the
the sandy gray road.
At the
pools, rice fields, fever-beds. lakes.
A
not long.
Kashgar bazaars. the
left,
At
milky spring mist
Toward
Where
shall
We
overhanging.
three o’clock
we
Yamdom. [221
]
we meet
go through
Kashgar River glows blue;
the right are villages,
is
Krijhoffs.
The
and muddy crossing
is
stopped in a small village,
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We and
Han
have parted with Ts’ai
led
women away from
remember and he
two
his
down.
fell
the bazaars
The
stories:
He smoked opium
Chen.
and beat the
horse under
servants.
him was
I
frightened
For that he broke the horse’s leg with a
An
stone.
Another
hand.
Here the vengeance was
story:
came down and scratched
eagle
meat
subtle; a piece of
with gunpowder was put out on a long wick.
The
his
stuffed
eagle seized
the meat and exploded.
The man who goes ahead as the scout is called Dorogha here. Toward evening it gets cold. There is no snow. The mountains are not seen.
February 27th
A
Salt marshes, bushes, willows, small villages.
By
ing to Faizabad.
half-past one,
we
are already at the
Nevertheless, in the book of routes, the
Faizabad
is
Even
divided into three days.
one can reach
it
sooner.
How
at a
thoroughly
untrue “facts” are lying on the shelves of
much
site.
way from Kashgar
to
slow walking pace
all
the books with
information about the “facts” must be inspected.
too
short cross-
libraries
Too many and there
is
reverence attached to the printed word, without any
revaluation.
Anew, anew, anew
— through new consciousness
and new con-
tainment.
And some
people respect
money
as such!
Just
now wooden
chips were brought to us with inscribed signs, and the people assure us that this it
is
real
money: And the
Everywhere
actively occupied
in
in the bazaars are
gambling.
I
a furious exclamation: “I
chips.”
According
aggerated.
The
to the local
chip
is
best
money, because
This authority apparently stands
issued by the gamblers.
in high esteem.
bank
is
groups of
remember hearing
in
men some
do not pay you with wooden
customs
this
remark was not ex-
brown, three-and-a-half inches long, and [
222
]
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR on
inscribed by hand, are Chinese signs.
it,
money is
because
very simple here.
refuses to
The redemption of these signs After the sign is worn out the government at the treasury, and the last owner of such
does not
it
redeem
it
tear.
a symbol liquidated the State debt. of our further
had
to
investigated the sites that these are not
We
sometimes have to
book of
stretches, otherwise
They sent us two send them back.
in fifty days.
We
We
encampments and we found
correctly given in the
combine two
People love this
routes.
will not reach
Urumchi even
soldiers as escorts
— true bandits.
we
February 2 8th
The whole
night,
they were singing in
till
all
four o’clock, under the full green moon,
around
in the different \ishla\s
honor of the month of Barat.
lowed by
The
distance, the
They sang
wildly, but mel-
notes sometimes resounded beautifully.
singing was not by Sarts, but by Torguts.
How
did Torguts
come
to
Moslem Faizabad?
How Of
strange!
course these
former wars. Until now, they have retained their
are prisoners of
customs of singing their resonant songs under the
Analyzing the
probably
nationalities,
full
moon.
you can sometimes distinguish them
by the remnants of their garments, sometimes by the language
and sometimes by the ancient sacred chants. the melodies of their native land ring out.
heart readily responds to this
call.
It is
During the nights
And somehow
the
instructive to follow the
combinations of peoples covered by the sands of the deserts.
We
rose early, at five o’clock, because -he road
p’o-t’ai.
It
means
a
about sixty miles. sand, bar\hans.
hundred and dust
Ci.'nese lee,
long
—fifteen
which means
marshes, greenish-gray; then dead
First, salt
The
fifty
is
is
opaque; the thin brush has been
uprooted for fuel and because of
this the entire desert
is
being
completely devastated, while two stops away from Kashgar are
wonderful coal and
oil deposits.
People themselves through their
[223]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA ignorance deplete their
and under the sun,
lying;
difficult to
move
Kara julgun,
Near
soil. it
The caravan There
drink tea out of the local \ungan.
The
March It
is
it
is
called
is
We
late.
not enough black
ist
we went
har\hans are ently there
away
is
still
sketches are multiplying.
Almost the
seems to be the most desolate crossing.
time
as
encampment
of the
site
a small gray village.
paint to depict this teapot.
is
already burning hot and
is
The
in furs.
the small rivers ice
along the
filled
was
with gigantic old stumps and
a big forest here but
The
the wood.
though along
a gnarled cemetery.
we
it
and one proceeds
scanty brush cannot gray.
Gray
also are
On
account
which have begun.
making twelve
are
is
Appar-
roots.
people have carried
The
Everything
the pools and the spring floods of these floods
now
sands have scattered
withstand the sand burans.
All the
of old destroyed forests.
sites
p’o-t’ai,
instead of eight.
Ditches, stumps, sand slopes; the biggest Chinese road
parable to a small
During the day we meet
trail.
entire
a
com-
is
few
sparse
caravans, but they, of course, cannot comprise the nerve of true
commerce.
The gray linger,
Everything
is
dead.
On
village Urdaklik.
though they cannot
dusty horizon.
And
see
these
flat
roofs silent figures
anything from their roof but the
people have no outlook or hope.
During the night the
Occasional travelers pass by them. a caravan will suddenly flare up. silence.
the
And
fire
of
again the same oppressive
Geese and ducks are flying toward the spring floods
but here only the crows and rooks are keeping house. of a plow,
some wooden implement of the stone
possible that the beks
and Chinese ambans succeed
Instead
age.
Is
it
in enrich-
ing themselves at the expense of these people also?
Our Chinese
escort has
no
luck.
In three days, three
[224]
warriors”
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR managed a
down from
to fall
whole regiment of such It is
What
their horses.
tseri\s, as
armies the cannons are
on the backs of people, and the enemies
shoot in the air and at night
there were
they are called here?
related that in certain Chinese
carried
if
daytime
in the
together at their gambling.
sit
March 2nd Turkestan
Chinese
been
has
logical standpoint; the ancient conquest
present consciousness of the country.
we cannot
forgotten by destiny. of the Tokhar,
It is
archaeo-
and the change of
ruler-
Yet, in the progress of the
cover with silence this vast country
very instructive to follow the remnants
Uigur and Mongol constructions, but
and astonishing
instructive
the
But nothing has been related of the
ship have been recounted.
world’s evolution
from
described
of the country has turned:
also very
it is
what the consciousness
to see into
Again the same sandy gray hope-
lessness.
The buran to speak
gach
—
lasts
more
trees
We
the entire day.
go beside “the
The
correctly, the forest-cemetery.
— are
sticking
Instead of the sun there
is
out,
surviving \ar-
brushy
crooked,
How
a silvery circle.
forest”
and
clearly
horny.
one
sees
which impelled the great migrators and conquerors toward the west and south. Imagining a great migration, do
the reason
not picture is
drowned
shoes or hoofs
feet,
— everything
up
to the waistline
in a thick dusty cloud.
We overtake an old man. He complaining about something. We understand that somebody has broken his shoulder and that is
they have driven
Karakorum
away
heights, they are
more
ethical.
meet three caravans of donkeys and half in
Chuga.
that this
is
We
Of
sixteen of his horses.
a
covered fourteen-and-a-half
the greatest Chinese road?
be called a power which keeps
its
course on the
During the day we
dozen
p’o-t’ai.
And
We
carts. Is
it
stop
possible
can a government
chief artery in such condition
[225]
?
ALTAI-HIMALAYA One
has to cry out about
impeding E.
I.
March
culture.
caught cold.
yd
It is especially
travel
about every ignorant deed
as
this,
is
absurd to realize that a whole day of exhausting
equal to two hours’ ride by automobile or to an hour
The
by aeroplane.
roads here could be utilized easily for auto-
mobiles and one would not even have to build aerodromes.
Per-
haps nothing would so awaken the people’s consciousness
as a
bird with a message of good cheer and with necessary sup-
steel plies.
Through
these aisles, with their
files
and over-
of dusty
loaded donkeys, would be opened a crevice of reason.
Sir
Aurel
Stein expresses in his books the fear lest the primitiveness of this
country be disturbed by the building of railroads and other dences of civilization.
evi-
always have been against uncultural
I
evidences of civilization, but there are
moments
of such paralysis
of a country that one needs every supermeasure of enlightenment.
But the Buddhist knows the reason of the apathy of the country: In the Books of Kanjur the teaching of
it is
said that
Buddha, the
trees
would droop and welfare would
We
make our way
We
marshes.
first
if
the country should reject
would wither and
disappear.
along the so-called “forest,” then
get into the flood of
Yarkand darya;
reach the clay walls and towers of Maral-bashi. at these walls
with a cannon
long bazaar of Maral-bashi bazaars, or equal to
all
The Amban
the city.
our
name
will not
go
Among
omitted.
is
is
dirtier
We
salt
finally,
Do
we
not shoot
— too much dust will remain!
others.
The
and darker than the other halt in a
garden far behind
has sent to inquire our names.
that in the order of the
the grass
It
appears
Kashgar Taotai regarding our passage
No, with Chinese conduct of
affairs
you
far!
the sars
which were given [226]
to us
with such
difficulty in
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Kashgar,
many
There should be ten
are valueless.
them, but often the tenth, the middle
money
the
which you
is
letter, is
torn out and then
Carefully examine
no longer accepted.
on
letters
all
money
whether from the bazaar or from the governor’s
receive
yamen. George remembers that Prjevalsky was the Tun-huang, but afterwards the honor of claimed by other
As
scientists.
first
to speak about
this
discovery
was
early as the Seventies, Prjevalsky
spoke about these remarkable cave temples.
Near Maral-bashi
times one finds poisonous
A
new
if
lakes.
we
and, according to the
will ask him.
command
He
Amban
It is
insolent
and absurd.
How
to tell
him
that
and the
we do
late
hour
to
can
command
we
question
of the Gover-
Again the people
“The Amban does not know any customs.” spite of fatigue
not need soldiers
of the Governor-General they are
about the fulfillment of the
nor-General?
informs us that he will
we do
But
guarding our confiscated and sealed arms. the
But some-
Fish abound.
fish.
from the Amban.
insolence
send us soldiers
few
are a
Sung had
bring the
Amban
to
say:
go
in
to reason,
not need the soldiers but they are needed
by the order of the Governor-General.
March 4th They send new simply like
soldiers.
insects.
he himself turned
ment
to flight thirty tserikj
of tserikj surrendered to
all this is
We
We
They do not even look like people, remembered the stories of M.; how and how
two gunners.
a
whole
regi-
Yes, apparently
not exaggerated.
first
went by a dismal
plain.
Soon, at the right, against
the yellow sky, appeared the opal silhouette of the mountains.
Welcome, beloved mountains! Suleiman lake
relates,
“A
was
giant
was too big and with
his
living here.
He saw
that the
sword he chopped the slopes from
[227]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the neighboring mountains
mountain
and threw them
this
a beautiful garden and holy people live there but
is
nobody can enter without
their permission.
have tried
Sarts
And
go there but nobody has ever come back.”
to
Behind
here.
Suleiman
pointed to the southeast.
Soon an unpleasant experience gallop to meet us and
We
the road.
had
to
warn make
is
in store for us.
us that water has
Some
begun
people
to overflow
One
a detour of twenty miles.
also
has to place this against the account of our arrest and detention
We
Khotan.
in
time for
lost the best
Now we
travel.
will be
delayed everywhere by floods.
Another
“Under Urumchi
tale:
also live holy people.
asked the to return
home, and the holy
the
wooden
of
shall
I
chips.
man
gave the
Kalmuck
?’
He
a lapful
thought,
took them and threw
Where
them out
Only two chips remained caught, and when he
into the woods. lo!
mountain and there
The Kalmuck took them and
carry these rarities
came home,
a steep
Once a Kalmuck wounded a mountain the Kalmuck to a holy man. The man remain with them but the Kalmuck asked
ram led Kalmuck to
ram and
is
And
gold hung to his garments.
so the
Kalmuck
lost.”
We ous
are going further, near gray sandy
strata.
giant holy his
We man.
pass an old tomb.
They
mountains with vigor-
Then we
pass a
mazar of a
say that even the trails of the hoofs of
horses have remained on the mountain.
The mountains
become more beautful and merge into the romantic silhouette of Bible lore. Not far from here is an ancient site, Haivar. Near the road are the remains of the Chinese fortress, Angelik.
Then,
again, sands and floods.
Another ever enters
tale: it
is
heaps of gold. itself,
“Not
far
lost in If
from Angelik
wonder
is
at the rich
an old house.
adornments and the
one takes a heap of gold the door
and he cannot
leave.
And [228]
until
Who-
closes
by
he returns the gold, to
TAKLA MAK AN — KARASHAHR the very last grain, so long the door will remain unopened. similar place
one can even
a city,
Kucha
in
see
the
a structure like
smoke but only on Fridays can
But one cannot carry out gold from
one enter.
And
There stands
near Uch-Turfan.
is
A
this site either.
they found an underground opening like a whole
They brought thousands of wagons with The stones are to be stones to fill it in but they could not. The tomb of a saint was also found there. seen even now.
subterranean passage.
—
Thirty-nine doors were open into
And
fortieth.
so they covered
it
but they could not open the
The
again.”
it
remember
people
about the predicted beautiful gardens and about foreign
also
gold. It
and
becomes dark. stars,
We
come
to the village
some one was praying, by the Is it
If
your desire
is
by the Elder.
this
is
our guard.
•
•
to give a gift to these barefooted night
.
.
of the
and shallow
to
is
A
Yaka Khuduk. burnt
There are many boar.
river banks.
telegraph wire.
This
is
the
telegram from
New
York, there was a
letters
and only the one
whom
and about what?
last
Often
same
we
line
think that
code or a mischievous joke, where only the is
travel
which In the
series of unintelligible
word “Advise” was
One may
Again
Boar-weed
forest.
transmits telegrams in an absolutely unintelligible shape. last
away
.
tedious crossings
a single
guards
All that you give will be taken
in vain.
unbearable dust; hidden ditches.
under
—
$th
you want
One
•
•
For what?
stands the chalice of Orion.
the bonfire barefooted youths are lying •
March
Bonfires
for a long, long time,
light of a bonfire.
High
not for enlightenment?
Around
And
and dreams of the people.
Tumshuk.
last
it
legible. is
To
a very sly
provocative
word
comprehensible.
Another
tale:
“In Kashgar recently lived a holy man.
[229]
He
ALTAI-HIMALAYA when
heard took
six
people in the holy place were praying, although
months
There
to reach that place.
is
it
such an holy place
behind the mountains.
In the district of Orenburg also there
He
heard about the present and the future,
man.
lived such a
and about the war and about famine.
In two hundred years
the Sarts expect a great saint, and perhaps earlier.”
We wind
and whirls
rises
March It is
tall
Sometimes a
Here are small
cruel pillars of sand.
naked bushes and sandy
clay huts,
a
on the dusty bank of Yarkand darya.
stop
river banks.
6th
On
very simple to give an idea of our passage of to-day! a
good
bit of
wool and
stick
in
round dish place
pieces of
crawl over
bumpy
this
gray dust; throw in a few gray
fragments of matches.
and for realism, blow
plain,
Let ants in order to
it
create pillars of dust.
And
so
we
creep along.
there the water
is
bitter so
We
we had
spend the night in a \ishla\ in to
its
expected to stay in Chulan, but
make
to
New
a detour in order to
At
Chulan.
gray clay huts a light silhouette of mountains
pectedly
—the
thresholds of T’ian Shan.
E.
I.’s
the approach
seen unex-
is
cold
is
tor-
still
turing her.
Suleiman
relates
how now
dealing in sausage casings; one
can (Brenner).
The
in
two firms
country are
this
German
(Faust) and one Ameri-
prices of casings
have risen so unprece-
dentedly that the works have become unprofitable. strange to
know
that the casings of the sausages in
The same
markets come from Khotan and Aksu. in the cotton trade.
ferent
unmatched
varieties
and
With
in this silk,
way
to a chosen sample.
[230]
very
American
mix
similar difficulties occur.
It
is
dif-
are ruining the value
impossible to obtain the delivery of an
quality equal
is
obstacles occur
In order to raise the prices they
of the entire product. is
It
entire
It
order of a
impossible to obtain
TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH A HR All this reduces the industry to
material of a chosen shade.
medieval conditions.
The melons and
the raisins are of
good
quality.
The amber sun
melts into the dusk of the horizon.
Somewhere some one
distances the eyes of the bonfires light up.
and weaving the design of rumors.
sitting
is
The
songs thunder out.
March
noisy
Tamasha
is
In the dusk the
held.
yth
appears that the water in old Chulan
It
In the
New
better than in
is
very good, even
New
But the inhabitants of
Chulan.
Chulan
decided to lure the passers-by and threw dead mules and dogs
The caravan
into the lake of old Chulan.
country and
We
went
Khuduk,
this case of
is
on the
little village.
It
seems incredible that
on the greatest road of China.
left stretches a
Chutu
All along are
mass of mountains and the pearly
adorn the horizon.
Another Solomon.
mon
quite typical.
is
thirteen p’o-t’ai, as far as the small habitation of
this little station
foothills
the nerve of the
luring the passers-by
a battered-down
sands, but
is
“Near the
tale:
city
Osch
There even remain the
there
little
is still
a
Mountain
of
impressions where Solo-
prayed on his knees.”
We
recall
how
the British Consul in Kashgar notified us that
George’s friend Allen Priest was in
Urumchi
as late as
November.
we met Priest on the threshold of the Vatican in Rome. And now we find him on the Asiatic roads — an active sensitive man. The British Consul says that he received the permission to go from Siberia to Peking. Will we still find him
After Boston
in
Urumchi?
meet anywhere It is
There are people with
whom
—where
our dear Americans?
long since
we
shall
we meet
is
agreeable to
have seen so noble a sunset with such broad
The golden
gradations of opal purple hues. dulled, lingered
it
sun,
somewhat
long on the crags of the far-off mountains.
[231
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA And
it
went leaving a
From E.
is
In the outskirts on the plain are our tents.
silent.
down.
above, Orion peers
I.
The
To-day there are no songs.
the limits of this country. village
These mountains mark
soft fiery pillar.
has almost recovered.
March 8th
We
approach Ujkul,
first
by sands; afterward two
altogether ten
habitations; fields;
They
p’o-t’ai.
p’o-t’ai of
start
to sow.
The plow is of the stone age. Two oxen drag one horny wooden device. Can one plow deeply with such utensil? The day is springlike. A fresh wind and the warmth They
are plowing.
Ujkul
of the sun. a
few occurrences
all
the morning,
fell
at three,
fell
on
Thereupon
him.
down and
had hidden
a
A
it
horse
he died.
bad
fell; his
occurrence.
head swelled
In the mafa of the Gegen,
We
ridge.
feared
was discovered
the entire load
this
For a day there are
a long dusty village.
in the caravan!
and
the middle horse raise
is
fell out.
could not
that yesterday a cart
And
When we
we
the guarding tseri\
reprimanded him he
idiotically smiled.
The
cool evening approaches;
the Chinese language.
speak about the decline of
There are 40,000 signs
one of them expresses the sign
we
letter
R.
which approximately expressed
collected, but not
In olden times there was a this letter,
but afterward
disappeared out of the 8,000 signs used in daily oneself
why
One
dictionaries preserve 32,000 unnecessary signs?
these unnecessary tatters
evolution.
life.
And
is
it
asks
In
seen the complete decline of Chinese
“Do
not go
“Can one expect
justice
as a result the local people
into this yard; there are Chinese!” or
whisper:
from Chinese?”
And how many young them
people are innocently dragging after
the results of the ignorance
and grandfathers.
How
and
cruelty of their fathers
they must hasten to get rid of such an
[232]
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR many thousands
If all these
inheritance!
of signs have led
toward ignorance, one should quickly
Valiantly and severely one has
these skeletons of conventions.
Otherwise,
to cut out the decay of survivals.
nations vanished so often
Matter less
is
weaving
thread from
keep
power departs one
how
it
the water
When
hand?
would be
possi-
for the people immediately.
And
to lay railroad lines
is
along the plains here!
During the whole week
especially bad.
—one cannot drink
the head of a
the criminal
and the
was yellowish brown, and to-day
ill-smelling
“Great
?
did Confucius have to
will have to provide railroads
To-day the water
draw
Why
cosmic web.”
growth and exchange
easy
have entire
history of the earth
traveling cart always at
his
bility of
from the
why
design and mercilessly casts out each use-
its
its
oneself
liberate
them from
it.
it is
You may
Dungan from
soapy gray and
expect
some one
out the well in a pail.
to
This
has already happened!
March
gth
From Ujkul we go Yakub-bek,
who
from Chinese with
many
to
Aksu, the
half a century ago tried to liberate Turkestan
but could not find
rule,
ditches.
The
river
though
as
Gray sky and
we remember
a yellow
We offer
recall
this
plowed
—
it
how
all
own
is
dank
means white water
bridges, as everywhere, are is
field.
the chief road of China!
We
remember America;
Grand Canyon, Colo-
Again we mentally urge our friends
—to know better
Americans a
full of its
And
The road
allies.
the beauties of Santa Fe, the
rado and Arizona.
Americans
alive.
Aksu
The
has already started to overflow.
dancing
capital of the unsuccessful
—the
the beauties of their superb country.
types of ungifted Jean Cocteaux in special dish of nonsense.
.
.
.
Europe
But America
is
possibilities.
Imperceptibly
we approach
the borders of Aksu.
[233]
The same
ALTAI-HIMALAYA little
and
clay houses
one on the Chinese
muddy
from here
We
Kalmucks.
stop
Andijan Aksakal.
To-day the mafa\esh
new
the
where
the Colonel.
city,
The
cities.
little drier,
Amban and
in
old
live the
Five days
Iliisk district of
the
garden of the
in the
dusty.
It is
first
until
a
Muzart Pass toward the
the
is
two
always,
The new,
place.
Taotai,
officials,
As
stalls.
bloodshed occurred.
Two
he bled and almost took out
tramps beat our Screaming.
his eye.
The tramps were caught. They bound them and took them to the Amban. And our revolvers are sealed, because the Noise.
Governor-General (that
is
the Tu-t’u) does not trust our Ameri-
The Governor
can papers of recommendation. not
know
his province;
he
is
of course does
busy transferring his riches to
ferent banks through various fantastic ways: to get
out of this territory!
The
a long time.
perversion.
An
The Lama
local
bazaar
more quickly
begs us not to remain in notorious for
is
its
agreeable exception; he speaks English, a
personally Allan Priest
converse a long time.
(now
The Amban
Priest
is
of other
Bank and
in Peking).
and
him about
the
Khotan ignoramuses. He shrugs
says: “Probably
you are
in
We
begs us to remain for a day,
otherwise he cannot arrange for two horses until Kucha. tell
and
to visit us.
little bit
languages; he was employed in the Russian Asiatic
knows
Aksu
thievery
The Amban comes
getting dark.
It is
it
dif-
China for the
We
his shoulders
first
time.”
A
who is watching events and who knows the significance of many things. He will come for luncheon to-morrow. He is the first cultured Chinese we encountered here. He does not seem to have the aggressiveness of Chu in Kashgar. The Amban of Aksu is somewhat on the type of earnest Chinese students, whom one may meet in American sympathetic type of young
and Parisian
universities.
we had molded
official,
We
rejoice to
meet
this type
because
our understanding of contemporary China ac-
[234]
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR cording to his type and not according to the buffalos.
what
happen
will
further. •
March
•
•
•
•
10th
we heard
Early in the morning
dawn on is
Let us see
at
the passes did the Ladaki sing their prayers; and so
Our two Ladaki
here.
Thus
familiar singing.
it
caravaneers are sitting under a tree
and are singing harmonious hymns
to
Tara and the Lord
Maitreya.
Pan
We
Amban, comes.
Tsi-lu, the
speak about Chinese prob-
lems, about religion, about the teachings of
very
much
about the
life
he cannot do anything he cannot
start
in
Aksu.
there.
He
life.
Being alone and a subordinate,
We
wished him success
The Amban brought two
issues of
papers of the ninth and sixteenth of January.
Chang Tso Lin government.
complains
dreams of leaving because
anything constructive.
in his intentions.
He
We
Chinese
read
how
has declared himself independent of the central
We
read also of the resignation of Feng. •
•
•
•
•
March nth The last Chinese in the caravan has exploded! It came out that Sung has spent each night in the bazaar playing cards. The amputated finger did not teach him a lesson. Of our Chinese, two turned out to be opium smokers, and two gamblers. And here the best of the Chinese
Aksu
—
is
whom we
anxious to leave this country and
do anything.
And who
will be the
met
—the
Amban
in
he cannot
feels that
one to undertake, courage-
ously and self-sacrificingly, to turn this dusty cemetery into a flourishing garden? there; but there
We
is
Silver
no
solicitous
go by a long path
First the clay walls of the
Then bur\hans and
and copper and
reeds.
to
and
oil
—
all
are
hand.
Karakhuduk (eighteen
new
We
coal
city.
march
[235]
Then
p’o-t’ai ).
the pearly desert.
until midnight.
We
stop
ALTAI-HIMALAYA at a
Chinese inn.
Another worry: the backs of the pack horses
are rotting because the caravaneers never
the luggage it
permeated with
is
remove the saddles; and
a repulsive odor.
will be necessary to regulate this caravan evil
;
In the future
horses,
mules and
camels are so burdened here that one cannot permit them to be
devoured
and
alive
by worms. Tibetans pity the horses. But Kashmiri
Sarts consign
March
them
to the
wanted
to attach an
we had
great noise
no
continues: To-day our famous escort
to eject the uninvited recruit.
nor habitations
blue cragged places one
The
hills.
may
—far
around us
lines are
silhouetted.
is
sunset
we approach
We
have no doubt that these it is.
Some
and the entrances
to
them
are crumbled.
ceilings
and the walls
Of
The
slope.
course
the
it is
Near
the
of
them
Moslems who have
ground
a little
below
deare
seen the remnants of ornaments, covered over with Turki in-
But the most enticing thing
scriptions.
neath the
floor.
It
means
mention of
the hollow sound be-
is
that below, in the buried part of the
rock, are also caves, not even filled in.
ties
At
In such
so
stroyed the images they hate. still
are
And
But three caves are on a low are pretty well gone.
There
Very high up on the sandy
are openings of old Buddhist caves.
are outlined very high
ice.
the desert, ending in
is
expect old monuments.
something
is still
have
The sun
simple and powerful.
a lonely langar, Toghrak-dang. rocks,
We
sand formations.
fantastic, ancient
already burning but in the shade there trees
With
arrested criminal to our caravan.
the entire day has been such a beautiful one.
been going through is
It is difficult to believe.
12th
The Sinkiang anecdote
And
worms.
this place in Stein.
We
It recalls to
do not remember any us the
of the fifth to the eighth centuries.
East.
view
The
Tokhar
antiqui-
caves face the
Before the eyes of the hermits spread the broad mountain
—a good and
beautiful place.
[236]
Under
the cave a mountain
CAVES
Series)
(Maitreya
SACRED
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR murmurs
spring
—not a waterfall but just a light
thin spring runs through a
woman.
of the Sart
Among
here.
stream.
The
wooden
pail
draw
their water
many
pieces of basalt
course, beside the caves there
were stupas and
which were covered by the avalanche of
separate structures,
postman
Little bells are ringing; the
two
into the
So, also, did the hermits
the crumbled fragments
Of
glow darkly.
wooden trough
little
is
hurrying to pass us with
From Kashgar
sealed bags of mail.
rocks.
to
Urumchi
the mail
takes thirteen days. •
•
March
•
•
13th
The
children from the langar hasten to gather the papers
by the caravan.
The
box.
•
One
little girl
from
finds a colorful label
exultation of the possessor
is
unbounded.
not having colored postal cards to distribute.
If
vividly colored
joy and will
We like
little
The
pictures.
a
match
We
regret
you want
do
find a place in a child’s heart in the quickest way,
left
children will take
it
to
through
them with
remember.
We
bid farewell to the caves.
high waves with congealed
pass rich sand formations,
crests,
or like threatening out-
stretched fingers, or like towers with bridges, or like tents.
After
we descend again to the sands. Probably a buran from Takla Makan has swept past here. Everything is drowned the mountains
in clouds of thick dust.
langar.
we meet
We
Again some people
shall stop in
are quarreling noisily.
several droves of horses.
toward Andijan.
Kushtami
The breed
They go
of horses
to the is
not
in a dusty
On
our
way
Russian border fine.
We
are
nearing the horse country and the breed becomes inferior: the values and reputations have to be carefully examined.
apparent already in the jade, ing, in ceramics,
silk,
and many other
This was
horses; in the quality of singthings.
be afraid to examine traditions because
[237]
it is
And
one should not
time to transport one’s
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA from the
self
One can know
past to the future.
the past but one
has to direct one’s consciousness toward the future.
In the yard of the langar
Near the place
two
are
a
is
band of professional gamblers. Karakirghiz
tents of
Amban
Exactly in this place an escort given by the a traveler.
One
—notorious
once robbed
The
has to take special precautions.
did not send any guards.
we had
If
our
rifles
thieves.
village
everything would
be well, but the ceremony of the sealing of the arms was
openly in order that the servants and
One
road would know.
The
only guard
is
cannot rely upon the Chinese
•
prisoner
the knaves along the
It
•
•
•
•
expected, during the night an outrageous
appeared that in
The
was frenzied gambling.
of our refusal, the
spite
went along with our caravan.
During the night there
prisoner lost
much money. They
bound him. ... In
a
“honorary”
Quicker, quicker out of this region!
escort.
word, the Chinese have arranged for us an
After the buran, everything merges into mist. disappear.
They
Yellow
the poplars the buds swell.
But we are
We
snow.
there, near the rivers, lies late city of Bai.
The mountains
and occasional black oxen
fields
On
are sowing.
at the
standing in a field
should stop in the
terrified at the dirt of the
set
Bai
is
of
up the a
tents.
nephew
nephews and
suls.
made.
among It is
old tombs
is
mazars.
bazaar and
to all are given positions of
Amban
in
Ambans and Con-
To-day important decisions are
a communication. •
are
Apparently he has a collection
of the Tu-t’u.
•
We
In the darkness
interesting to note that the
The Sinkiang Company! There
plow.
But here and
decide to go five p’o-t’ai farther to the small langar.
we
escort.
our Tibetan Tumbal.
March 14th As one might have thing occurred.
all
made
•
[238]
•
•
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR March 15th
A
Three
p’o-t’ai
from
In these mountains
where we
Kizil,
The remnants
caves have been explored by Stein.
On
have been burned by the local iconoclasts.
huge herds of sheep and
The answer the horses
is
is
—these
We
We
to
March
find
going for
away
a
sale.
foreigners.
to find
work,
Andijan, to Kuldje,
which
attract the travel
a bazaar
and again they
Where from long way eighteen
well, Urus.”
Kucha we have
have to leave
To
here.
go through
“You go
are calling to us,
work
are three arteries
of the entire country.
is
and communications with
trade
because one cannot find any
To-morrow
way we
are they being driven?
time, hordes of Sarts are going
Chuguchak
of the paintings
the
and the wool, everything
bulls
The common dream
to
Where
goats.
shall stop, the
the same: to Andijan; the sheep, and the goats and
and the
At the same
The mountains
fields.
opal silhouette.
at the right are of a pale
are caves.
Yellow
Purple-gray sky.
dull day.
—
is
this?
p’o-t’ai.
at five o’clock.
16th
One
of the
most beautiful days.
freezing and then there
is
a hot sun.
Up
to seven o’clock
it
is
First a valiant desert, in
Afterwards a crossing brings the most unusual
pearly tones.
sand formations, like congealed ocean waves, like hundred-towered castles, like cathedrals, like yurtas variety.
far
In the Toghrak-dang langar
from there
Two
p’o-t’ai
are
two
away
caves,
it
in
an endless
feed the horses.
On
a slope rises a tower, Kizil
looking back
are the dark entrances of caves.
there over the sandy
we
all
mounds.
we
We
karga
notice that not far
dismount and hurry
These are the same celebrated
seems to me, some of which LeCoq reproduced.
as always, reproductions
Not
caves with traces of colored decoration.
from Kucha on
meaning the red raven.
—and
do not give even a [239]
But,
fraction of the real
ALTAI-HIMALAYA One must come to this amphitheater of former temples toward evening, when the impression is intensified by the quietude of nature. One has to imagine all these cavernimpression.
with darkened walls and
shrines, not
In the niches one has to imagine the figures
brilliantly frescoed.
One and
of the Blessed
which
of Bodhisattvas,
now
are
carried
In one cave remain the traces of images of thousands
away.
of Buddhas.
In another cave remains the place of repose of
Buddha and
a part of the ceiling.
covered with
Moslem
low
but vividly and
vaults,
spaces.
structures.
The bottoms of the walls are Under the floor one feels holrow of unopened subterranean
inscriptions.
Apparently there
One cannot
a
is
consider these excavations completed
Not
the hollowness of the hidden parts resounds so apparently.
Lamaism, but
Buddhism
of true
traces
Of
silence of these caves.
course
it
is
if
apparent in the
are
wonderful that examples
museums
of the frescoes have been scattered into the
of Europe.
But the walls of the caves remain denuded and the true image of the shrines has disappeared
We
are going to
—only the skeletons have remained. Why
seems cleaner than the others.
Mullah, forces them to clean the impossible to halt in the bazaar. the city but
has fallen?
how
A
There
town.
beg that they
can one reach
of him. riage.
this
is
a
may
And
The cook
Here we
course a
is
it
garden behind
which
friend, a Sart, leads us out of
The
stables.
Why ?
chicken-coop the
are in the capital of Tokhars.
Tokhar King, Pochan, was persecuted by
hostlers
In the house for
They mean an
whole group of healthy peasants
[240]
again
same darkness emerges
deprived of a soul.”
calls the
city
Elder, the old
in the complete darkness
sleep in the kitchen.
the
The
They mention
garden and a house and
man
?
Of
streets.
and an unexpected
the servants lives “a
insane man.
it
is
savior appears; out of this
a white turban,
The
Kucha, passing a row of gardens.
little
is
afraid
chickens’ car-
Here
it is
the Chinese
that the
and flew
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR him
out of the city on a dragon, taking with
Much March
is
rumored about the gold
Buddhist caves.
in the
spent in negotiations with arba\eshs,
is
mafa\eshs and \ora\eshs; after
becomes
everything seems impossible.
at first
an avalanche of unnecessary discussion everything
At
possible.
first, as
mated
as
days
the customary period.
is
his treasure!
iyth
The whole morning Then
all
Whereas,
twelve long days.
where are the
a
We
They
all
these faces.
are not visible.
more Mongoloid type appears
Turk
but in general, these are the same
Tokhars disappeared leaving no
traces
is esti-
everybody knows, eight
as
peer into
Tokhars ?
traces of the
haps something of
far as Karashahr, the road
Sarts.
And Per-
in the features,
And
thus, the
and no one knows even the
true pronunciation of the symbols of their writings.
come
So, before the eyes of history has is
unknown; nor
without a
is
it
And
trace.
known how Just so
whither he flew on the dragon
same country
—in
this
thing about the inhabitants
One cannot
from whence
and disappeared
scattered
not a savage people but one with a written
language, with culture.
in this
it
a nation,
is
is
it
with their Tzar Pochan:
known. And
pear-garden
who were
it is
—and
strange to
not
know
sit
any-
here not long ago.
obtain objects of antiquity here either
—“Some-
where, some one knows about them in Takla Makan.”
March 18th At one o’clock
at night,
Loud and
and
shrill
drums, trumpets and singing began.
persistent
were the screams of “Allah.”
These are the Moslems preparing for the ing the day they have to aplenty.
fast,
but
at
fast of
Ramazan.
Dur-
night they can partake of food
In order not to outsleep the period of eating, the good
Moslems play and dance on the eve of the
day’s fast.
The dogs
barked a great deal and were running wild during the night. [241
]
ALTAI. HIMALAYA camp and he noticed that the government guards, the tseri\s, slept heavily. Ramsana took away the rifle from one of them, went around the camp and fell asleep with the rifle. The tseri\ was startled when he awoke in the morning without his gun. Oh, these unhappy Ramsana got up
in order to inspect the
tseri\s!
came
In the morning
been in
a
Swedish
She has
missionary.
How-
country for fifteen years and not one convert!
this
with doctoring and midwifery
ever, the missionary busies herself
and here
woman
absolutely necessary because
is
it
all
these “cities” are
without a single doctor.
Then
firm, Brenner Brothers of
wool
A
We
begins the American day.
New
to see the
They
York.
An entire community
business.
go
American
are in the gut
of vigorous
working people.
unique community with children and with a joyous
growing work.
tion of the
The
business
is
and
realiza-
With
developing.
the primitiveness of the apparatus one has to admire the fine
all
results.
on
a
Here they
hand-made
are waiting to
are assorting
and washing the wool.
press they are pressing
lift
it.
Here
Here,
a line of camels
the white heaps of wool and to carry
them
abroad, to Tientsin and to the ports for Europe and America.
In the whole artel there are no books; for the entire community there
is
lenko.
New
one
world.
a joy to be able to give
It is
There are
two books. praise
murdered
the
D.
Testament and an accidental volume of Koro-
is
about the
affairs of the Sarts.
They ask what happens
Titai.
skillfully interpreting the local
religious discussions.
which
are spread
much
intolerance.
strangle the
tales
them old newspapers and
new
In this
way
the intolerance
by the Mullahs find
And many
customs by
and
resistance.
They in
the
way
of
superstition
And
there
is
of the local Beys have planned to
foreign enterprise.
D. and P. show themselves
as pioneers for
[242]
America in
this
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR They
country.
listen to
our
tales
the mineral riches of the Torgut
about America.
and
D.
tells
about
Iliisk district.
The Kalmuck administration does not hesitate to make innovations. The people praise the Sarts for their work. They have initiative, ability and The Kalmucks
are excellent
marksmen.
adaptability.
many
In the country are
narrators of legends
which touch the questions of the Koran and
and
questions upset the routine of superstition.
custom of sending young
a curious
men
Often the
religion.
enter into a dialogue with the narrator.
listeners
fairy tales
Often keen
In Turfan exists
with an experienced
guide in the guise of a story-teller through the whole country,
Thus
even to Mecca.
Through
versity.
is
evolving a unique experimental uni-
may
explain the adaptability of Tur-
festivities
usually end with a song about
one
this,
fanians.
The
gatherings and
Issa (Jesus):
“As
Issa
went on
his
wanderings, he saw a great head.
human
the road lay a dead
head.
Issa
On
thought that the great
And Issa decided to do good and to resurrect this great head. And the head covered itself with skin. And the eyes filled themselves. And there grew a great body and the blood flowed. And the heart was filled. And
head belonged
the
to a great
man.
mighty giant rose and thanked
usefulness to
There
among which
are
the is
Issa that
he resurrected him for
humankind.”
many
legends about the flights of Solomon, and
Kalmucks
nothing
else
is
than one of the manuscripts already
to us, “Issa, the Best of
trated here not
very widely spread a legend about Jesus
Human
Sons.”
Of
from Hemis but from another
Everywhere are spread the signs of beauty.
them
fearlessly
course
It is
it
known
has pene-
original source.
time to gather
without superstition.
Again information
is
given to us about ancient places: About
[243]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA many
and stupas along Kizil darya.
caves
been excavated and part of them are
still
on the bazaar they sold “a trunk with
Part of
them have
Not long ago
hidden.
antiquities”
brought from
Lob (near Lob-nor). There are tales about old cities along the stream of Tarim or Yarkand darya. There are people who know these cities. The fossilized bodies in the burial grounds indicate a very great stature, taller of course than Mongolians. The expeditions
which were
there,
completed the
Now
part of the work.
easier
and most apparent
more concealed
there yet remains the
work demanding greater construction and preparation. In Kucha it is already warm. The young grass is getting green and is two inches high. We learn that from Karashahr to Urumchi one can go by the mountain road. It will be five days shorter.
In this way, one can avoid the hot
where there sea level).
is
In the
summer
Tukson,
Turfan Oasis (960 feet below Turfan people bury themselves in
in
walk more than one
approaching heat, there better to
at
a descent into the
the earth and cannot
is
site
mud
is
p’o-t’ai.
Besides the
by now, on the great road.
go through the Kalmuck
territory,
It
along the moun-
tain passes.
March igth Ramsana again took and
would
And
around the camp.
strolled
and asked him
his feet
gun away from
the
to return the
the sleeping tseri\
again the tseri\
gun
bowed
as otherwise the
to
Amban
beat him.
They
ask on
what
Chinese currency
by anything and Governor.
Of
is
the comparatively high exchange of the
based.
But
all
now
that
circulates like dry leaves
course, this
is
it is
by
not guaranteed
command
of the
one of the successive misunderstand-
ings and justice will soon clarify
Until
know
it.
in Tibet there exists a
custom of
cuting gambling houses and brothels.
[244]
A
specially prose-
certain
lama
called
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Geko Lama, upon a
learning of the existence of such houses, takes
dozen lamas with whips and
And
presents himself at the house.
peak of the orgy
at the very
on the
spot, all
“Of him who came
earlier”:
then, there
present are whipped. Interesting
is
the
Kalmuck
song,
“One man pondered long and forgot to come to the elections of a Noyon (prince). Another man did not sleep that night and came first. And he was selected Noyon, because he entered first. And so the former who pondered, sits and broods that for him no place was found
As
Noyon.”
in the yurta of the
many marks
in other countries, so here are
Often on the rocks one can
see tiny projecting piles of stones.
These are the signs of
treasures.
can find directions
how
as to
In the monastery records one
one
one, for his
tomb
recently.
B. has
marked
pile
called Ishan here,
is
knowledge of
there reached six quarters in length. tion of Lob-nor.
may go from one D.
to another to the site of the treasure.
B. has seen an ancient
according
at certain times of the day,
to the indications of the shadows,
meaning the holy
of treasures.
religious subjects.
The tibial bone found The spot is in the direcSo there are interesting
it.
indications for the future.
March
We
20th bid farewell to the workers’ group
again noticed that wherever there
on
a troy\a;
of town.
is
labor there
D. and M. went on horseback
Again questions: Where
discuss the newspapers
at
shall
and books we
to
Brenner’s.
We
P.
went
joy.
is
accompany us out
we meet?
left for a
They
long time.
will
For
our farewell they demonstrated to us the wonderful pace of their
Karashahr horses. calls
D.
It fills
We
“Now
you
shall encircle a part of the
are sinking into the
our eyes.
We
milky
desert.
A
Gobi,”
shamal begins.
turn into a yellow mass.
Every day comes new significant information.
[245]
“The Mon-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA army has reached the river Urungu and threatens Sinkiang.” Nobody in Europe and America knows about the affairs golian
of the local countries.
We
are stopping in the village Yaka-arik.
Underground
creeks are often used here.
fully to the tradition of
underground
This corresponds
passages, so prevalent in
Precisely in Central Asia, are interwoven fairy tales
Asia.
European measures
reality.
From Peking an
establish
Urumchi.
it
The
are not applicable here.
was proposed
aeroplane
to the Tu-t’u
of Sinkiang to
communication between
Peking and
Tu-t’u answered that in this province this would
not be practicable, because his people were wild and would to the mountains.
Of
course the people
would not
flee;
more
quickly.
these air messengers.
flee
but rumors
of the various ignorant activities of the Governor-General
spread
and
would
The people would very quickly welcome The dream of the Orient about the flying Solomon, would be
carpets,
which the people
born in
their expectation of the iron birds.
attribute
to
For in Tibet
re-
also
the most ancient prophecies have envisaged iron birds and iron
There
serpents.
are also, as in traces of the
fundamental teach-
ing of Buddha, references to the cosmogonic problems of planetary evolution
began
to speak about
woman
Buddhism,
life.
As soon
as
we
as of a realistic teaching, the
Kucha hastened to leave us, saying, “The Buddhism are taken from Christianity.” But the
missionary in
scriptures of Pillars of first
and of the development of
Asoka were standing before
Christianity
and
in the
century before Christ the recording of the covenants of
Gautama was
already begun.
One
has to regard things
more
simply and without prejudice. •
March 2 1st Not long ago
•
•
•
the travels of Sven
precedented heroism; and
now
E.
I.
[246]
•
Hedin appeared as an unis crossing the same deserts
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR and heights with no thought that it is anything extraordinary. Now the representatives of Brenner are traversing the same expanses where Sven Hedin, according to his books, almost perished
And soon iron And the fairy tale
from lack of water.
same
these
places.
new
by the
birds will swiftly
of the past will be replaced
fairy tale of the cosmos.
High
Since evening the cicadas have been singing. the shining
moon. There
the fragrance of grass.
is
o’clock at night the buran struck.
was
all
should desert.
We
aflutter. fly
Mother
they call
it
Approaching
of pearl
Tommy
The
silvery
Here we
We
sun
Belyan-khan which goes a
is
This
tent
And we
Brenner’s
Two women
are going to Karaul.
and
We
stop in the garden of
shall
suffocated us again with their deep
last p’o-t’ai
limping.
is
On
to Tientsin.
kazan troy\a.
He
has malanders.
He
will be out
In the evening everything becomes quiet.
sets.
are called Ferengi-Bey.
and go from Kurat through
It is
our
fifth
name
a
Kalmuck encampment, by way
the monastery Sharasiime on the mountain road to
The Kalmucks,
as a nation,
go through
The Dungans,
thus far.
whether we can avoid Karashahr
are trying to find out
instructive to
two
flying
The
morning.
spread out a big caravan.
of service for five days.
came
and opal and above, dull sapphire.
p’o-t’ai.
is
at
morning again the pearly Gobi
the
in
from Chuguchak
The
until
It
But
stands
to prepare ourselves in case the tent
us, tinkling,
passed fourteen
sands.
is
here,
three Tartar girls
Yangiabad.
had
And
away.
the road, in order, or, as
Verily struck.
dragon and roared threateningly
like a
above
fly
Urumchi.
have slipped out of attention.
their ulus for a
of
It is
week.
or Chinese Moslems, occupy a strange position
They are frankly disliked by Moslem, Chinese and Kalmucks. The word “Dungan” itself is pronounced with a certain contempt. The faces of the Dungans are scarcely attrac-
in the country.
tive.
There
is
much
cruelty in them. [
247
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
proceed as far
as
Bogar, a dusty bazaar
into nine p’o-t’ai, but apparently
Here the
p’o-t’ai are
and long
p’o-t’ai.
we go by
First
mud.
is
The hoopoes
There
is
a
long
are short p’o-t’ai
uphill
p’o-t’ai,
is
strange measure of distance.
To
the opal desert.
the left are
upon
before Bogar one comes
p’o-t’ai
road
mountain
a
divided
It is
more, judging by the time.
counted peculiarly.
Down
A
a short p’o-t’ai.
it is
site.
a
swampy
Three
hills.
On
oasis.
the
Big flocks of ducks and geese are on the wing. are strutting about in a
most pompous way.
The end
say of them: “These are former men.”
They
of the road
is
enveloped in clouds of dust.
A
On
dusty garden.
the fence
Sung persuades him
Politely
“It
sitting the
is
son of the
not good to
is
sit
on
Amban.
a fence.”
But nothing helps, and Sung applies the customary means here
and throws
From
a stone.
disappears.
you hear the same remarks about the inaccuracy
all sides
of existing maps. It is
The boy
In some are omitted important
and
necessary to examine the transcription of the name.
from the Chinese, and
the Turki,
local jargon
maps
trouble
which
is
on the
in others,
many
In some
from some kind of
Even
not recognized anywhere.
there are a great
details.
In some they are taken from
are introduced non-existing names.
staff
sites
errors
in the
which promise one much
route. •
•
a
•
•
March 23rd
Was cities.
of
not Tamerlane a great disinfector?
He
We know
little
sorts
all
what
it
means
of contagion.
can be done with them?
ought
to is
turn toward
its
final
new
decay
places.
—
it
is
cities.
For the people’s welfare, one
burn them and plan new in
clay cities full
Here we have passed twelve
What
the old
to destroy
many
destroyed
villages beside
difficult to force
Here the Tung-ling [248]
them.
While
the natives to
of
Kucha
con-
R
TAKLA M AK AN— K AR ASH A H strutted a
ground
We
new
city alongside the old city.
We
follow a broad plain.
Nobody knows
The
place.
go further
behind Chader.
shall stop
p’o-t’ai.
We
pass Yangizar.
caravan
is
under-
It is
delayed.
dark.
Sabsa’s
Mastan and Olla are keeping up remarkably.
swollen.
is
We
forest.
have passed sixteen
back
streets,
But the people are afraid of the new
canals.
through a dusty
We
Broad
The caravan
distances.
arrives at
one
at night.
March 24th
A
tiring day.
It is
Up
low shrubs.
to
Chirchi
caravan of Belyankhan. the
same
To-day
The
firm. is
house of the
We
we
is
twelve
by a dusty
We
p’o-t’ai.
forest
Our
and
pass a big
In Chirchi stands another caravan of
pioneers of America are working.
The day
are sending our thoughts to America, to the
Museum and
the school,
dear friends,
annual meeting. spaces
it
are passing
the day of our institutions in America!
of the founders.
observed.
We
hot.
The
is
it
as
if
where the day
we were
is
being
present at your
distance does not exist.
Traversing these
recall the plains of the Mississippi
and Missouri and
We
the immeasurable steppes of Russia. the caravan of Belyankhan.
This
is
are even rejoicing at
already cooperation with
As though both continents, divided by a cosmic catastrophe, remembered their former unity. How much of Mongolian there is in the types of the later Mayans and the red-skinned Indians! How much equal breadth there is in America and in Asia. And now in its moment of regeneration, Asia rememAsia:
bers
its
distant
March 25th They show of greasy
ties.
Greetings to America!
us another species of monetary symbols
little
rag and a dirty
of the local currency:
de\hans.
little
Lans (or
But a Kashgar lan
is
bone.
This
sar or teza )
equal to three
[249]
is
— some sort
the situation
are equal to 400
Urumchi
lans
and
ALTAI-HIMALAYA an Urumchi lan
You
considered 800 dehjians.
with you.
But because of
suffering.
Can such
will say
is
nonsense.
money
differences in standards of
the reason that people ask
is
it
Khotan lan I
is
agree
nonsense, millions of people are
this
in one province be further complicated
This
A
equal to three Kuldja Ians.
is
existing
by wooden and rag signs ?
why
the value of Chinese
currency has stood so high until now.
Nowhere accessible
upper layer of discoveries has already been exported to
Europe and
The
itself.
hidden
as for the
layers, let
them remain
demand
dignity of the countries
are disposing of the people’s treasures for their
many
of
Yangi Hissar (designated
thousands of Ians
and
the taxes without limit until
he regains
as
is
sun.
and
in It
also
summer said,
and came out
God
himself a god. before him. a god.
king’s
they bake
it is
still
new
position
cool,
but by midday
caravans begin to travel by night
about the heat of Turfan
tales
little
cakes on the stones under the
“There are many underground springs here,
man and
after six
passages.”
months of wandering.
in Barkul.
He
sat
In the past they once
he hid himself in a subterranean passage
another thing happened long ago:
search of
was
Again
many underground
tortured a holy
And
The
already burning.
is
lost
has especially increased
will not leave for his
morning
In the
during the summer.
where
Andijan)
to
through the desert with small brush.
p’o-t’ai
reach Tim.
the sun
Ambans own benefit. The
his loss.
Twelve more
We
that they should
Consul
as
Now he
at cards.
for Asia
But so far the
wisely dispose of their true resources.
Amban
Apparently the
are objects of antiquity to be found.
They came
and read
a
“Some people went
to a
book and
king
who
in
considered
his cat held a candle
The pilgrims decided to test whether the king really They argued, ‘If we let loose a mouse, will the
shrewd
power should
cat
run
stop the
after it? cat.’
If
the king
Thereupon they [250]
is
let
a
a
god then
mouse
his
loose,
TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR and the king’s
cat ran
now saw
people
“They went
away and threw down the was not
that the king
further.
bread and asked
if
They met
a god.
who
a shepherd
He
but the shepherd did not wish to take his dog.
dog ran and
him.
after
would
find
The shepherd
killed the dog.
“They approached
Only
to seek
them more
who had
to the city to
such
money had
to the
Some time
buy bread
to take his
He
at the bazaar. at the
money, saying that
not been current.
The shepherd
open.
And
all
passed
afterward
them
of the giant
for 2,000 years
quickly returned after
him
in
But apparently the holy people
by tempest or by prayer.
army but much
though they
And
offered
coming
have no need for kings, for the mountain closed. either
him
been sent for something came out; he
order to investigate this wonder.
entire
What
door closed after them.
mountain and the king of the place hurried
opened
But the
God!
money, but the people were astonished and they refused
easily.
did not even have pity on
where the holy people dwell, no one knows.
came
said that be-
a chasm-like crevice in the mountain.
as they entered, the stone
the shepherd
gave them
They took him,
he could be their comrade.
cause of the animal, people
The
candle.
as they labored
Nor could
it
The king brought at this
be his
mountain, and
perished in the attempt, the mountain did not
near this mountain
is
the
tomb
of the king.
Such
deeds there were and such underground passages there are.”
A tales
young Baksha overtakes us on horseback. and
tells
legends,
and he “conjures
He
sings fairy
— devils” “Baksha,
sing
He takes out from behind his back a long-stringed gejac\. He sings as he rides. He plays. The strings sound well. And somehow one forgets the dry sands and the hot sun. Two melodies resound. Now the higher one
the tale of Shabistan!”
dominates, as
thunders out
Then
if
its
in supplication or
command;
again the lower
victorious affirmation.
the Baksha takes the tambourine and
[251]
fills
the desert
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
with widely varied rhythms.
we
the country of the Sarts,
rejoice that
on the
last
day in
are accompanied by the song
To-morrow we
melodies of the Baksha Sart.
and
shall reach the
ulus of the Kalmucks.
At
the
to the north, out of the fog
Behind
Shan.
At
left,
are the
it
Kalmucks and beyond
it
Semirechye.
Tim, is a great ancient stupa and ruins of old banners of Buddhism. It is said that the mountain
the entrance to
structures,
where Buddha was and snow now
was
all
fell
and extinguished the
initiated
of the Blessed One,
it
looms the ridge of T’ian
snow
encircle this
But
aflame.
mountain and
it
is
after the prayer
Ice
fire.
difficult to find
until the predestined date.
A
warm
quiet
evening, a milky spring sky.
encampment
reach an
Karashahr and go chi!
We
of the
there,
If
one only could
Kalmuck Khan without
entering
by monasteries and mountains, to Urum-
are awaiting the
Kalmucks.
This
is
significant.
March 26th
A
beautiful day.
fair,
First
All sapphire and amethyst.
T’ian Shan.
From below
of fine sand formations.
mountain
river.
A
Then we
crossed a
row
the hill flashed a blue
—the
We
followed
custom house.
The
The first Kalmucks appear. George Mongolian on them. They understand each other. We
boundary of Kalmuck
soil.
stop in a langar, not far
The
rose the range of
powerful and overflowing one.
In front of us, closed gates
the river.
tries his
from the north,
from Mingoi Saur (thousand
ruins are enveloped in a legend that a
certain place.
The people dug.
lama saw a
ruins).
light at a
They reached water and
there
appeared a water-serpent.
There
is
a belief that
on these
sites
stood a large monastery
containing the chalice of Buddha, which disappeared from Pe-
shawar, and which
Now we
is
mentioned by Fa-hsien in Karashahr.
are stopping by the river, near strata of coal.
[252]
This
is
— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR the
day without dust
first
The Kalmuck
in blossom.
now walking around Behind the
river
We recall the
—again mountain
glow the shepherds’
the hopes of the Kalmucks.
formation
as to
what
this
a full
We
recall
Of what
one’s
palm
sent to him.
full of holes.
is
how
Torgut leader can achieve
then a long farewell to Dzungaria!
is
shines.
Chuntse,
Toin Lama. Later there came should he
what
moon
bonfires.
And
to accept
first tree is
though we were
It is as
At night
borders.
its
one, told us about
first
soil smiles.
The
air.
.
.
if
fail to
full in-
he
able
is
accept
avail to
it
speak
if
.
March 27th
The
the mountains recede
Again
a dusty
and the
and famished
river disappears
On
There
deal of inflammable clay slate.
we
In a whirl of dust crossing
there
seldom
is
A
the surface
is
a great
coal in the mountains.
is
The
multi-colored crowd; piles of
camels and horses.
nothing Buddhist.
sees the faces of
a village road, in-
Such crossings there were on the
rafts.
small tributaries of the Volga. balls; carts, mules,
toward the south.
reach the river opposite Karashahr.
on primitive
is
Again
desert.
stead of a broad Chinese highway.
itself,
Soon
crossing to Karashahr (or Karachahr, or Karachar).
Still
And Sarts
Kalmucks, marked
again, in the city
and Chinese.
as they are
One
by greater
keenness and alertness. S.,
a representative of Belyankhan, meets us.
He
praises the
Kalmucks.
We have to change servants. everybody
is
afraid,
afraid of Chinese
able rupees. gols.
They
happens
Our
terrorizing Gorban, of
to be very
timorous himself.
and of Kalmucks and trembles
Sarts are apparently afraid of
fear their keenness.
We
of Sarts in the caravan by Kalmucks.
observe this nation which
may now [253
]
shall
He
is
for his miser-
Kalmucks and Mon-
have to
How
whom
fill
in the loss
illuminating
it is
to
enter the pages of history.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA How
refreshing
it
to leave the sands selves
when
sight of
is
to penetrate again into the
and the
dust.
mountains and
Even the horses shake them-
they approach fresh water and mountains.
At
mountains our Tibetans, Tsering and Ramsana,
the
fairly
leap with joy.
Smile, is
Kalmuck
soil.
The
Series
conceived.
[
254
]
“Asurgina and Orovani”
Part IX
KARASHAHR—DZUNGARIA (1926)
March
2 8th
Karashahr, in translation, means Black City.
Urumchi
On
this
Strange in
the
is
call
Red Temple (Hung-Miao-Tzi).
expanse are the countries of the Torguts and Khoshuts. the destiny of the Kalmucks.
an inexplicable manner.
cupy the
The Chinese
Iliisk district; the
nation
is
dispersed
In Chinese Sinkiang, the Olets oc-
Torguts, Karashahr; the Khoshuts,
Dzungaria; the Oirots, Mongolia; the Besides these there are
The
Kalmuck
Damsok
are
in
Tibet.
ulus, scattered in Caucasia, Altai,
Semirechye, Astrakhan, along the Don, and near Orenburg.
Near
the holy
mountain Sabur stand the remains of the
Kalmuck King,
Aisha.
In the scattered yurtas begin to appear
the signs of self-consciousness. tell
A
of the
coming
city of the
The
prophecies of the forefathers
dates.
dispute between a Sart Bey and the
Kalmuck.
The
Sart
The Kalmuck answers, calmly: “If a Sart comes among us we feed him and give him drink, and we feed his horse and give him provisions on his journey. But if a Kalmuck comes to the Sart, he is not given says provokingly:
“You have no god.”
food and his horse remains hungry. possesses the essential.
The
Judge for yourself,
Sarts defile the
Buddhist teaching
and mock the Buddhist images but the Kalmucks vere your inscriptions.’ the
first
who
‘We reBut you have no images because when say,
images were bestowed, you were far distant and could
not perceive them.”
[255]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA teaching can
Those
dispute with Buddhists.
It is difficult to
much
so
tell
who go
various guises, for the help of mankind.
Gautama
new
But
we
if
S.
praises the
Kalmucks
“One does not need Sarts, especially the
We
earth, in
Unprejudiced, they
styli-
encounter a teaching based
ahead of
far
epoch.
its
word:
for the steadfastness of their
written agreements.
It is
not as with the
beks and beys.”
encounter a few beautiful Karashahr horses.
This
is
the
breed which one sees on ancient miniatures and on
identical
Some
the statuettes of old China.
But here
extinct. It
we
knowledge of evolution
true
on
eliminate from these tales the
zation of language and images
on the
forth
movements, recalling the commands of
social
himself.
the
of the evolution of life; they speak
about the messengers from Shambhala
speak of the
who know
it is
scientists
considered this breed
before us, vigorous, dark-bay, firm in gait.
would be good
for other countries to
To-morrow we
will
go
to the
examine
encampment
this breed.
of the
Kalmuck
Khan. Hardly has evening
fallen before a
new Sinkiang villainy
great excitement and says that the
S. arrives in
Amban
occurs.
will not
permit us to go by the short road and orders us to continue our route through the sands and heat of Toksun, the long and weari-
some highway.
An
derision of the artist
added
insult,
an added imposition, an added
and the man.
see the monasteries?
Is
by way of the dry sands
?
it
Is it
possible that
We
possible that
an
artist
arrange at
all
home.
that
is
necessary.
His secretary says
hurry to the Taotai.
The
is
now no
old
man
His secretary
Amban will We go to the Amban. He is not that the Amban “fears for us on we
can go, that the
account of the great snows on the mountain pass.” that there
cannot
must go only
pretends to be indisposed and cannot receive us. shouts from the balcony that
we
longer any snow, that
[256]
we do
We
explain
not have to
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA go by way of high Teke-davan, that we will go through Sumundavan, which
is
lower.
At seven o’clock they promise to bring us course the snow of the Amban is by no means
of a white color.
These Chinese
These Chinese are capable of ruining each day. are capable of transforming each
We
day into
Of
the answer.
a prison
and
a torture.
await the evening and nevertheless prepare to depart.
There
come Torguts, returning from Kobdo.
A Khoshut
He
lama comes.
us valuable tales.
The lama from
Not
He
asks us to heal his eyes.
fairy tales but facts.
Uliasutai has written a
brings
Facts are needed.
book about the approach
of the time of Shambhala.
The nephew
In the evening the answer comes.
and the postmaster bring In spite
it.
Of
of the Taotai
course the answer
of the heat, of the humidity and dust,
the long way, through hot Toksun.
E.
I.
is
we must go by
says she will die
the heat, but the Chinese smile and notify us that their
has a very small heart.
ernor-General
We
compose
this
negative.
from
Governor
telegram to the Gov-
:
Please wire instructions to the Magistrate at Karashahr
Urumchi by Health of Mrs. Roerich does not allow her to continue journey through the hot sandy desert of the long road. The mountain road permits to reach
to allow Roerich Expedition to proceed to
mountain way.
Urumchi much
sooner.
Until the arrival of an answer of the
we
shall
go
to the
encampment
Torgut Khan and the monastery Sharasiime.
The sense of surveillance and compulsion is abominable. What work can be accomplished when behind one’s back stands the order of the
Amban and when
the Governor-General has a “very
[257]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA small heart”
?
One’s whole
mood
is
spoiled
and we are waiting
again as though in some medieval Chinese dungeon.
March
We
29th
with the dawn.
arise
in order that the Chinese S.
difficulties.
brimmed
All our
may
men
hasten to leave earlier
not have time to invent
accompanies us for a long distance.
In a broad-
hat and in a yellow, old military coat, he
poised on his ambling horse as
We
if
he came from a
new well-
sits
New
Mexican
The sun is burning hot. To the north is again a vague silhouette of mountains; separate great yurtas; herds of camels. The riders wear round caps of Tibetan cut. After nine p’o-t’ai we arrive at the encampment. The bazaar is cleaner than the cities of the Sarts. The white buildings of the post shine in the sun. The walls, the yards, the walks, are broadly constructed. They lead us ranch.
go by the yellow steppe; high
White
through a broad yard into a big room.
We
Chinese furniture, bearskins.
drink
from the Gegen-regent (the Khan being
grass.
They bring
tea.
a minor).
whom we
same reincarnated Sengchen Lama
walls, black
a card
This
is
the
mentioned in the
To-morrow we shall see him. We shall stop in the field behind the encampment opposite the mountains. A wonderful sensation. Kalmucks come and are speaking to our lama. The Kalmucks ask whether we have pieces of Sikhim
notes.
They
magnet. carefully,
women
until
ask about Tibet, about Mongolia,
they
know with
certainty
Toin-Lama, the Gegan riders,
who we
are in very beautiful, well-fitting attire.
wall a military trumpet resounds
who
ruler.
He
—these
all
are
this are.
very
The
Behind the
the Cossacks of
has two hundred
Kalmuck
are taught the Cossack formation.
March 30th
A
clear
morning.
Purple mountains.
[258]
It will
be hot.
The
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA what
One might have
of Ladak.
rejoiced
announcement
and that
would be
it
—in
that
we must
some-
had there not occurred
who came
a Chinese villainy in the guise of a guard,
insolent
me
mountains and buildings reminds
distinctness of the
with the
not remain here too long,
better to await the
command
of the Tu-t’u
manured fields, dust and suffocating heat. Verily, one may choke from all the proposals of the Chinese. Now even the escorting soldiers have begun to reprimand us. They ought rather to guard our seized arms, which in
Karashahr
the middle of
were thrown on the
we go
to
Toin-Lama,
field
a friendly
man, small
upon hearing the
Although
impenetrable,
is
about temples in Sikhim and
tales
he becomes animated and wishes us
Little Tibet
ten o’clock
in stature.
according to custom the face of Toin-Lama nevertheless,
At
without any watch.
He
all success.
stands as he listens to the message, but fear of the Chinese congeals the tongue of
.
He mumbles: “When
But the time has come!
comes.” self.
Toin-Lama.
Every one measures for him-
.
.
The house
of the prince
is
white and clean and spacious.
Dented
the yards stand yurtas with golden cupolas.
Some
ners.
how
stand coils
faces smiling,
strong
is
Sinkiang oppression.
isters”
and
soldiers.
mands
elders arrives
Do we
A
say that
we
we
But the
Not even
three
whole crowd of “min-
from the Gegen-regent with two Chinese
not see that the
Amban
of Karashahr
us to return to Karashahr immediately
to us at length
under-
The Sinkiang dragon
around the semi-independence of the Kalmucks.
hours pass without Chinese treachery.
In
Ban-
walls.
One can
and some gloomy.
mountains and the white walls are so joyous!
that
the time
and firmly, but there
is
no
P
All this
letter
with
is
comtold
it.
We
intend to leave Sinkiang as quickly as possible, but
await the answer from the Tu-t’u.
And
here
we
sit
again in inactivity and await a telegram from Urumchi, without
any assurance that our telegram was sent
[259]
at all.
It is
impossible
ALTAI-HIMALAYA work because even without moving we call forth persecution. Meanwhile the soldier goes to the bazaar and entrusts his gun And so the soldier’s gun is being entrusted to to Suleiman. our groom and our arms are left sealed in the fields. In fine, to
where
logic,
is
where
reason?
is
After three hours a buran
Friends, you will think that
anything,
Again
and transmit
a
are noisy
nor can one
to us the
visit
One can
of
letter
only determine to leave Chinese to
I
stating the reasons of our expulsion. official letter
I tell
from the
my
This
slavery, against all the
And where
shall
endure
And where torturers
life I
territory of the
independence?
I.
them
that
I
am
was honorably received by twenty-two
for the first time in
it?
is
soil
demand back
that the expul-
by
quickly.
work;
of the Expe-
command of the Karashahr Taotai, who having made maps. They give us carts in order is
that
E.
that one cannot
The whole purpose
give us the passports with an
away more
of
we immediately
that
Within two hours we go
as quickly as possible.
sion
If
of the Karashahr Taotai.
means
It
Sharasiime.
our passport and a
demand
command
and threaten.
dition vanishes.
They
exaggerating somewhat.
crowd of Kalmucks come with Chinese
depart from the post by
They
am
I
disappear.
should be glad to understate, but the occurrences
I
are monstrous. soldiers
The mountains
starts.
am
to send us
fifty-two years old; countries,
and that
subjected to expulsion and this
semi-independent Torguts. is
accuses us
What kind
nothing but slavery: humiliating
customs of the East
— to cast
out a guest!
we go? To the heat of Toksun? And can Her heart is absolutely unable to bear the heat.
the nearest border in order to hide
?
A tempest threatens
in the mountains.
[
260
]
from the Chinese
—
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA March
We
31st
We
slept badly.
morning
twilight.
I
arose before
meet our lama.
dawn.
He
I
walk out
in the
very upset: “I must
is
—“Who us.”
said it?” They want to arrest “During the night came a lama whom I know from Tibet; he says that yesterday the Kalmuck Elders wanted to bind us “Take Olla and the all; but they were afraid of the revolvers.”
depart at once.
—
Kirghiz with you.
There we
Gallop through the steppe
to
Karashahr.
shall find you.”
In five minutes the lama and the Kirghiz are already galloping through the steppe.
We
start in a
The
have come in the meantime.
carts
Threatened by the Chinese, the
hurry to load.
Gegen-regent does not even come
to say good-by.
once was he held back in Urumchi and afraid.
mitted
Even
him
now
he
is
More than even more
for the religious festivals the Chinese only per-
to leave
not courageous,
still
please the Chinese.
Urumchi
for four days.
Although he
one cannot simply expel guests
Some
riders are encircling us
is
in order to
and spying.
Again we go by the same steppe but Karashahr has become for us truly a black city. visiting the
we were prohibited from They doom us to creep along the
In Karashahr
Buddhist temple.
hot sands for twelve days and stupidly prohibit us from touching the beloved mountains.
is
made
But on the other hand we
know
we were
surrounded by Chinese
kaftan
is
Karashahr, by reason of the
again
order of the Tu-t’u, veillance.
From
hidden Chinese
and
spies
that the poor
that often
We
identity.
garden where we were before.
convicts under sur-
From
come
Gegen
under a Kalmuck’s into the
manured
the gates they scream at
Moslem greeting). Sung rushes The usual fight. The Sart runs at the offender with a whip. away. We go at once to the Amban and on our way take along the postmaster, who speaks English. The Amban says that according to the telegram of Tu-t’u, we must go by the long way
us
“Kapr” (meaning impure,
a
[261
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA through the sands,
Of
we
course
heart.”
danger to the health of E.
in spite of the
I.
already heard that the Tu-t’u has a “very small
The Amban
But, nevertheless, this cruelty astonishes me.
does not deny that he ordered us to return from the encamp-
ment and temple.
we were
that
prohibited from visiting the Buddhist
We say that in that case
and we ask
we have nothing
China
in
for a written statement of these prohibitions for
communication
to
The Amban
America.
confused and refers
is
Once more
to the necessity of conferring with the Taotai. is
do
to
confirmed that
we
from
are prohibited
visiting the temples
it
and
painting the mountains and that in order to expedite our journey
we
are sent
on
Where
a long road.
Confucius ?
art thou,
Where
thy justice and sagacity?
is
They demand, price is not more
Tiresome bargaining over the arbas begins. as far as
Urumchi, 180
Ians,
than ninety or a hundred
while the usual
So we
Ians.
finish the
day among
different “friendly greetings.”
Kalmuck this
had smiled to us from
soil
Sikhim
Himalayas.
It
we began Makan.
how
related
after the receipt of the letter
We
Kirghiz, Salim,
And
again
is
his
we
the
recall the deeply
grandeur of the
that our hearts ached
when
from the Karakorum heights toward Takla
The Kirghiz
he changes
recall
was not without cause
to descend
bind them?
if
moods; we
but on approach
We
was turned into the Sinkiang grimace.
penetrating
cil
afar,
from the Amban: “Should we
many and
are
indignant
word
the Torgut Elders held coun-
in
see the
they are only three.”
Gegan: “This
at the
an hour, he
shall
is
The
not a prince;
never be a Burkhan.”
sympathy of the people and the rancor
of the Elders and beks.
conduct of the Kalmucks.
The Lama All this
is
is
indignant because of the
illuminating!
The former
Kalmuck Khan was poisoned. A wiser counselor was The Torgut Elders are far from awakening.
[
262
]
killed.
April
i st
The
Different tales about the Kalmucks.
late
Kalmuck Khan,
under pressure or under influence, gave an important mission
Urumchi in order The Kalmucks overtook to legalize and to ratify the mission. him in the mountains and put an end to him together with
The Chinese
to a Chinese.
his escort, so that not
hurriedly went to
even any traces were found.
Because their
Kalmucks poisoned him. As the heir was a minor, the brother of the Khan, ToinLama, became regent. In June of this year, the Toin-Lama will give over the state seal (tamgha) to the young Khan, and he
Khan was
susceptible to such influence, the
himself
going away
is
Sharasiime.
Toin-Lama
an
to the
ecclesiastic
twelve-year-old
the
Shall fell
as
Khan
The
A
Titai.
was
Noyon
taxes.
sent to kill the
complete medieval darkness!
prosperity of the
taxes are high.
reign for long?
into disgrace with the Tu-t’u after he refused
to give his soldiers for the expedition that
Kashgar
monastery in
Kalmucks
is
being crippled because the
Besides the Chinese taxes, they pay the local
It is
hard for the people.
The
herds of the simple
people are getting meager; and the Elders, taking their bearing
from Sinkiang, have reached and
shall
in
Tu-t’u of Urumchi, and that
Museum;
orders but his actions,
ment
bind
it
less
We
bloodthirsty than the
will not suffocate E.
I.
This
sends a compilation of his orders to the British Consul,
also to the British
at first
try to
Karashahr they brought the threats into action.
hope that the weather will be
official
where they
In Khotan they threatened to expel
an American Expedition. us,
a point
hand
is
it
such
human
see
it
is
not the dead pages of his
which give the image of the man.
It
are calling the Sinkiang
you
it
possible to see the true
of Sinkiang.
until
but
on
is
Only
image of the govern-
not for nothing that the best Chinese
government, “Sinkiang Company.”
this site,
deterioration.
And
you will not be able to believe in
Of
course the Tu-t’u
[263]
is
old and will
ALTAI-HIMALAYA and he cannot take with him
die soon
But
goods. Verily
much
we were
any
America awaits the Chinese
Probably for
so.
my
paintings of the
government explain why
Of
Amban
course, the
Well,
letter.
it is
In Sikhim
and banners; but on Chinese
us with trumpets
with ropes.
me
let
has to be
it
not permitted to go to the monasteries.
met
they
stables?
rather paint than depict these harmful,
be useful.
Buddhist heights, but
Augean
to clean these
But apparently
evils.
this will
one
will be the
should
I
malevolent
some
who
to his grave the pilfered
soil,
of Karashahr did not give
We
not necessary.
have a
letter
with
Kalmuck Khan which clearly indicates the order Chinese officials. Quicker, away from the Chinese threat!
the seal of the
of the
Before us are the islands of Japan: before us the dreams, longexisting, to see the Easter Islands
with their mysterious stone
giants.
Soldiers
were not sent to-day
have to guard themselves.
at all
and
The evening
so our confiscated
is
ended with the tedious
who
procedure of granting leave to three hostlers
away
to
He
us.
are going
Tibetan, Tsering, wants to go with
does not love his stepmother, and he says that his father
has become a
with
The young
Ladak.
arms
sti
anger to him and he wants to go far away
The young
us.
How
possibilities.
soul
knocking
is
at the
window
of
new
can one not take him?
April 2nd
The morning father, to
drama
of Tsering.
us.
If
he does, he
You should have
and swallowing
says,
he will break his legs and
much
striving
his tears,
senselessly to
toward
All trembling
seen the tears of Tsering.
What
he bids us farewell.
people have to deprive one of his happiness? so
His Ladaki
misinformed by the malicious grooms, forbids Tsering
go with
arms.
begins with the
light.
do
In his desire was
And now Tsering
march with donkeys along the dry [264]
right
again will have sands, serving
From
a painting by Nicholas
Roerich
TIBETAN
Roerich Museum, N. Y.
WOMAN
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA Of
run away.
to
old
Sometimes we wonder
Poor boy!
ignorance.
man and
the
course this
no
less
Since seven o’clock
because the malicious
we have been busy with
the arbas and
distracted by such a tempo.
the
and the
account
who were
soldiers
sent.
An American would be driven When will these people awaken?
makes us indignant.
delay
same time comes
interesting information.
are taking vaccine against smallpox, not
and
people,
not going
malicious hostler will watch him.
of the unfitness of the horses
At
is
We are writing contracts. We are protesting on
caravan.
The
difficult
is
he
if
from
The Chinese
calves but
from
so they are contaminating people with syphilis
and
other diseases.
The Mongols have occupied from Urumchi one draws
—from
a line
from Kuldja
erected for himself a
Mongols remove
to Ku-ch’eng, the Tu-t’u will
monument
in
Urumchi.
What
us.
seeing beauty?
right
The
refreshed the caravan.
Ramsana
Will not the
it?
Instead of mountains,
p’o-t’ai.
instead of monasteries, instead of Maitreya
around
Governor-General.
Incidentally, the illustrious Tu-t’u has
marching only four
are
about 300 miles
or,
the residence of the
find himself in a sack.
We
from Sharasume and
hundred miles from Ku-ch’eng
are within a
If
the frontier
—again yellow steppes
do the Chinese have
to deprive us of
departure of the three hostlers
somehow
For some reason the people are joyous.
expects Tsering and assures us that he will
come run-
ning to us to-day or to-morrow.
April
yd
It is
very cold during the night and hot at midday.
steppe.
A
dusty stony road.
mountains.
we have
to
We
reach the dirty
stop
Taotais, Titais,
Northward little
near cattle yards.
is
range of foggy
village of Ushaktal.
Again
Indiscriminating are
Ambans, T’ung-lings, who [265]
a
Yellow
all
for centuries have
ALTAI-HIM ALA YA been stopping overnight little
village
same miserable
goes the Koshut road
Khoshut road
it
to
we have
to
go
know
Urumchi.
From
this
Along
the
This
Chinese cruelty, to
is
the dust and suffocating heat and to
in
that alongside this there goes a short road full of
tain beauty.
temporary Chinese
and
could mention to us any celebrated conor scientist.
artist
You may imagine our which the short road
moun-
that not one of the Taotais
It is significant
Ambans whom we saw
of
go by the long dusty, hot
and ugly road for eight whole days. force travelers to
inns.
Urumchi but by order
only four days to
is
the Governor-General, ‘
at the
when we saw the canyon through and we ourselves had to crawl in
feeling
passes,
clouds of hot dust!
Again
a variation of the legend about
came out
He
a tall
man and went
Turf an: “From a cave
to the bazaar to
buy something.
offered to pay for his purchases with gold coins
a thousand years old.
Then
cave and disappeared.
And
dog.
The dog wanted
to
man went
the
which were
back into the same
at the
entrance was standing a stone
jump
into the cave after the
man
but he became petrified.”
Ushaktal
is
Khoshut
the center for
They
horses.
are larger
than those of the Torguts.
At
Ushoktal are traces of an old
fortress of the times of the
of Andijan and Fergana.
Many
one
a distance of
mosquitoes.
Wild
p’o-t’ai
from
conquest
geese.
April 4th
“The old Khan decided
to
hand over
(seals) that they should rule the
to his sons the
Khoshuns.
tamgas
There were tamgas
The Khan’s wife wooden tamga. Don’t
of gold, silver, copper and one of wood.
told
her favorite son: ‘My boy, take the
take
the gold ones!’ the old
Khan
The Khans began
said,
tamgas with water.
to choose
‘The sky has created water.
The one tamga which [266]
the tamgas and
Let us
test
the
shall be higher shall
— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA And
remain higher.’
the
wooden tamga remained on and
of the water, but the gold
On
the black Irtish are
The gold
sands of them.
sank underneath the water.”
silver
many
the surface
gold prospectors, tens of thou-
only slightly under the
is
The
soil.
Tu-t’u sent soldiers to detain the seekers, but on reaching the
gold the entire troop disappeared.
To-day
From
a beautiful day.
is
appear mountains
Gray sky and
and reddish brown.
blue, sapphire, purple, yellow
we
Alongside the bed of a broad current
pearly vistas.
Kara-Kizil.
all sides
It
means
The name
black-red.
is
reach
correctly given
The
because the mountains are of coarse granite, black and red.
How much
silence of the desert.
langars than the
And
and
cities
solitary
are these isolated
dirty bazaars!
we
only to think that
through
more agreeable
could have gone for four days
mountains, amidst far-off snows!
The whole
small pine.
peared the
first
miles, there
was only one small
of emaciated mules.
It is as if
with a bad well, a hun-
new
one did not go by
undiscovered country.
tains protrude layers of black slate
whole desert holds
day, for seventy-four
For the whole day only two small caravans
dred feet in depth.
road but through a
latigar,
To-day ap-
its
a big
From
Chinese
the
and coal formations.
moun-
And
the
breath awaiting the steps of the future. o
•
•
•
•
April $th
simply a torture with the
It is
arba and he
gun.
fails to
And
servants of
some passing
own Amban
his
to put our horses out of the langar.
the mountains are so beautiful
with greenish and carmine lies
goes to sleep in an
guard not only our arms but even
During the night the
wanted
He
tseri\.
spots.
!
They
stand, dark bronze,
Behind the mountains again
the desert, with dark shingled slopes strewn with light-yellow
bushes.
A whole carpet of Asia.
During the day
it is
hot.
An
eastern
[267]
wind brings some
relief.
ALTAI-HIMAL A YA We
passed nine p’o-t’ai to the poor village
and
disrupted
At one time
langars.
Two
village.
Kumash. here.
“But Ambans and Taotais are traveling here.
E.
asks,
I.
Is it possible
that
Suleiman laughs, “What does
they are stopping in such dirt?” it
pilfered
tumble-down and uninhabited
was something
there
A
Ambans? If they only have an opium pipe woman! They roll in any dirt!” Apparently, respect to
matter to these
and
a
the officials
is
not very great.
Through
travelers
from Khotan
a vague report penetrates about the replacing of Taotai
The Bar\hans
We
mist.
reminded of
are
from China
to Tibet relate
on the border
The mountains
are silent.
smoked much opium and
official
household, that the nurse had to
The
Kalmuck
was
left
happened that the border
It
his wife fulfill
was
so busy in the
the duties of a customs
This was printed in the Shanghai papers.
official.
travelers
a nurse with a child
customs inspector.
as
are hidden in blue
a characteristic case:
how
Ma.
Last year
pilgrims were prohibited from going to Tibet to wor-
ship in the sanctuaries.
Such prohibition
is
very significant.
Already to-day the Chinese torture begins.
The
heat which
we would have avoided on the Koshut mountain path has begun. They say the snow in Urumchi has It is now very early spring. already melted. In the evening we reprimanded Suleiman for He is his habit of letting his whips pass over human backs. astonished: “How shall I deal otherwise with a Dungan or Chinese?
Does he understand reason?
you take him.
went
him
Why
do you think that the Dungan mafakesh
so quickly yesterday a
good
in such
kick.
manner
Either he takes you or
?
Because from early morning
But to-day he probably will come
are they living here •
•
—a whole
•
•
we gave
late.”
chain of
And
evil.
•
April 6th
A
hot day.
surrounding
it.
First the desert
with
After passing eight
[268]
many mounds and p’o-t’ai we entered a
rocks
beau-
KARASHAHR — DZUNGARIA We
gorge.
tiful
went through
During the
to migrate.
saw only one caravan of mules and two is
no
life is
seen
entire
The
riders.
From
truly nothing but a stony desert.
until half past four,
De-
Probably the water disappeared
way.
and the people were forced
Bluish-
p’o-t’ai.
Complete lack of water.
black bronze rocks, all-creviced. stroyed langars on the
for several
it
If
we
greatest road
seven in the
on the road.
day
morning
we had gone by
Urumchi to-morrow. We stay over night in Argai Bulak. An isolated latigar amid bronze mountains. They say that here was also war with Andijan. High in the sandy rock is seen a cave. The trails to it are entirely the
mountain path, we would be
in
crumbled. •
•
•
•
•
April 7th
On
account of the inhuman Governor-General
much more
is
from the rock, unsuspected,
is
com-
Amidst the sands
beautiful in Ladak.
a vivid green strip of grass
are
Varied sand forma-
pelled to proceed through the hot gorge. tions; all
we
suddenly seen.
means
It
that
flowing a spring of ringing water
is
To
which spreads over the sand.
be sure, one could easily gather
the precious fluid into a constructed canal the stony road; but of course the
;
one could
improvment
easily repair
of the country
does not enter into the schedule of occupations of the Chinese administration. plain.
E.
I.,
.
After a small crossing
stifling
from the
but an old monster!”
same
York
to
as to say
to
enter the burning
heat, says, “This
—
it
heat.
die
via
Turfan and out of
One can imagine how
from heat
in
It is just
an American: “You can go from
Chicago but only
is
not a governor
stupid and inhuman.
is
New
Orleans.”
amidst the milky mists, glows azure Toksun. distance
is
Really to compel foreigners to take four
extra days of burning road
the
we
its
Amidst Only one
nine-hundred-foot pit
easily in
Turfan.
[269]
summer even
New sands, day’s
rises
the
the natives
ALTAI-HIMALAYA In
Toksun
We
up from the furrows.
springs
many
river dividing into
with blood.
to us all covered
And
his persecution
because he does not
It is
our arms and
who
came
latter
necessary for us to
stration to the
whole province.
Sung only
at the base of all this, the
has ordered
would conduct themselves
with an
started
chiefly directed against
is
the fighting
all
a
This brute does not understand
But
steal.
responsible for
is
on the shore of
only there would
If
To-day the dawn
get rid of Suleiman quickly.
himself
...
thick verdure
Suleiman battered up Sung and the
ugly fight.
reason.
are standing
tributaries.
not be dissension again!
running
A
the trees are already vividly green.
them If
—he who has confiscated
carried sealed as a
we had
differently.
o’clock the heat does not diminish
Tu-t’u
It
demon-
the revolvers the is
men
hot; even at five
and the night brings no
cool-
ness into the tents.
Toward evening they bring the horses to the river. They walk them up and down before us. Will we not buy? The price is
from 300
back
The
a black stripe.
is
A
to 1,000 Ians.
zebra of kulan.
Is
beautiful light-bay horse.
On
the
posture of the head reminds us of a
there not in the species of Karashahr horses,
a cross with the kulan?
At
twilight the
How
Russian.
girl.
From
stars of
a Russian is
com-
a dark
little
here she herself is
rings out the soft complaint
There came the revolution.
She ran away.
Came
appears in a Chinese
anxious again to go to I
Toksun
is
speaks
her thirteenth year her family sold her to
speak about with them.
there.
And
Semirechye.
disappeared.
relatives
to
under the
life.
Dungans.
woman
appears that his wife
It
He
doctor comes.
pink trousers and a blouse; and with her
And
of her
that?
woman from
Cossack ing, in
is
Dungan Chinese
my
famine.
attire.
“I
They
are
country.
bought for myself a
little
[270]
Her
And now the Cossack am weary I have nothing And now we are dirty. ;
My girl, a
husband wants Sart.
I
to be
paid twelve
— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA made for myself a kind of tent out of linen and put it in the room in order to cover their dirt. In Urumchi many of our Cossack women, because of need, have married Chinese. The educated ones and good dressmakers married Dungans. “Here are many scorpions. Beware at night. Turfan and Ians for her.
Toksun I
I
A
are notorious for their scorpions.
Then
screamed with pain for three hours.
around
a string
my
finger
little
And
Be
careful.”
goes into the dusk with the
husband foreign-to-her and with the purchased she calls Eudoxia.
me
bit
they tightly tied
and applied opium.
The Cossack-Dungan woman
one
whom
little girl,
so the Tu-t’u sent us not only into a
furnace but also into the city of scorpions.
is
The
hot at night.
It is
astonished that until
now human
goes on openly and businesslike.
mands there
of the Tu-t’u, presented
is
a flowery
George
grasshoppers chirp ceaselessly.
command •
this
Maybe in the list of the comby him to the British Museum,
about the sale of •
And
beings are sold.
•
•
human
beings.
•
April 8th
we
Because of the cruelty of the Governor-General horrible day.
On
desert.
We
dragged ourselves through the burning stony
the horizon the hot air
transformed into
a
into the heat.
been in Urumchi.
America. to
gray
pitiless
Only
We
The
a-quiver.
far-off
plain.
are
The far-off mountains we might, by now, have
would have already read news from
But because of the despotism of a monster we have
shall stop in the langar of
our way,
East.
foothills for three
more
days.
We
Pasha Tsaigan.
we have been
justified in destroying the
and Far
all
to think that
tramp needlessly over the
On
is
become dense and the mirages melt and
inexistent lakes
merge
spent a
thinking:
The Europeans
monumental conceptions
Here we have seen caves
pilfered
But when the time of the regeneration of Asia [271
]
are not
of the
and
shall
Near
stripped.
come, will
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA “Where
she not ask,
are our best treasures,
which were con-
structed by the creative spirit of our ancestors?”
have been better, in the
monuments,
name
carefully retain
preservation?
Instead of
Would
of knowledge, to study
them and
cases of frescoes
parts
of
these
fragments of frescoes were taken
this,
were destroyed by
monumental
the
all
not
create conditions fostering
away, only to perish because of change of climate.
whole
it
In some countries
rats.
constructions
In Berlin,
are
piled
up
in
the
museums with no indication as to their original purpose and meaning. Our friend Pelliot is right not to destroy these monumental constructions, but to study them and publish his researches about them. Let individual works of art move freely on our planet, but the deeply conceived composition of construction
Bodhisattva
then
The
must not be destroyed. is
in
Europe and
if
world speedy reach,
first
of
all
Where purifies
the world of learning
fragments of the frescoes of Gozzoli or Mantegna were
be scattered in different countries?
to
that the head of a
painted boots are in Asia.
What would
and preserves and restores? say
is
knowledge which
the disinterested
is
its
result
Soon over the whole
All distances will be within
steel birds will fly.
and not ragged skeletons but evidences of
must meet these winged
a high creation
guests.
During the whole of to-day we saw only one small caravan and only one
of mules is
The dead
rider.
silence of the great road
comparable only to the lethargy of contemporary China. Youth
will
come and
the deserts will flourish.
In the ya\htans the candles have melted; the yellow sun hides
To-morrow should be
behind the amber mountains.
we
shall
go beyond the mountains
cooler
into the first zone of the Altai
climate. •
•
«
•
•
April gth
We
are passing the last ridges of the [
272]
Heavenly Mountains of
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA We
T’ian Shan.
road
pass beside the route to Turfan.
an old Chinese
is
some one sought
were
with half-erased inscriptions and
stela
with care the signs and milestones.
to preserve
Farther on, our road branches
Our
—one road goes through the moun-
and the other along
a river
people debate a long time, as
The
a state affair.
All this
passes.
the cross-
There, long since, in the depths of the centuries,
ornaments.
tain passes
On
with
fifteen fordings.
the direction of our road
if
council has decided to go through the
being discussed so seriously in order that
is
But the
should realize the seriousness of the crossing.
antici-
Both crossings are very easy and bear no
pations are in vain.
comparison with Ladak and Karakorum.
mountains to
we
a small river.
The
We
descend from the
ruins of an old fort are visible.
Against the dark blue background of the mountains, shines out
We
unexpectedly a light golden sand peak. lives a
holy man.
Formerly he used
Now
no one
little
chapel stands there.
a legend
is
sees
him, but
we know he
show himself
to people.
A
lives there.
kind of
But the doors are not seen.”
Thus
being created.
Again we go by can believe that
whole
to
“There
are told:
a
this
narrow,
bumpy
village road
the biggest or rather the only artery of a
is
which contains the metropolis.
district,
and no one
It is
strange and
even monstrous to see such deterioration of an entire country.
One
thing
is
beautiful
— the
soft bells of a
These are the true ships of the
We
stop in
Tapan ch’eng
marched eleven hours.
Urumchi
it is
now
E.
long row of camels.
desert.
(the city of the Pass).
I.
even kissed her
only twenty-two
p’o’t’ai.
It is
have
horse.
•
•
•
•
To
very hot during
The stars twinkle with unusual brightness. For time we heard the gongs of the little Chinese temple.
the day. first
little
We
the
•
April io In the evening a buran sprang up.
[273]
We
fastened the tents
ALTAI-HIMALAYA down with
all
we
weights and
At two
house.
service
it
stronger.
heaped the ya\htans around for
spent the wretched night in the trembling
we
could not find out what kind of night
By morning the shamal became even Everything was obscured in a gray-yellow dust. The could
be.
During the
mountains disappeared.
entire
crossing
ceeded against the whistling waves of the whirlwind.
we
On
approach to the capital of the Tu-t’u, the villages became
more bedraggled. The road more murderous and
still
products
little
o’clock during the night the gongs sounded in
But
the temple.
We
our spikes.
is
is still
the still
worse and the types of Dungans
savage.
The
Here
incomprehensible.
pro-
difference of prices for
ten eggs cost one sar,
and
The same with
fuel
in the next village they are half the price.
and forage.
A are to
gray desert with white layers of
moving about and
the
tails
salt.
The waves
of the horses are curling.
of dust It is
easy
imagine that the whirlwinds of Asia can overturn a loaded
arba with
fifty
They were little
puds (two thousand pounds) or can stop
a troy\a.
special difficulties in pitching the tents in the dirty
village
The
of Ts’ai-o-pu.
tents
in
fluttered
the wind,
everything was atremor and a layer of dust instantly covered everything.
And
so
we
amidst the muffled knocks of the
sit,
storm, amidst the layers of sand and to
go through
this furious
show
us his country in
with dust and the sand the blows of the
Why
did
we have
shamal when by now we could have
been three days in Urumchi? to
dirt.
its
Apparently the Tu-t’u wanted
complete dejection.
grits against the teeth.
wind remind
Our eyes fill The noise and
us of the tremendous seas vividly
chronicled in the newspapers during our
last
crossing of the
Atlantic.
Sometimes the formations of the mountains particularly suggest
the fusion of
multi-colored fluids, and often
[274]
the desert
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA The shamal
thunders with the chords of the ocean.
does not
stop by evening as our caravaneers hoped.
April
nth
This story
Kalmuck
army was pursuing
a
He
evoked the gale
to his aid
self
galloped away.
But
as there
And
was no one
The
giant.
of
It
to conjure the gale, so
glimmer with
snowy
the shamal
it
now
is
has remained.”
The
cleared.
their
it
faint outlines
Steely
crests.
become freezing during the
has
strong.
the gale scattered the Chinese forces.
gleam below, surrounded by white borders of continues.
was
giant
from the mountains and he him-
To-day part of the horizon has of mountains
“The Chinese
told in explanation of the gales:
is
The
salt.
pinches the cheeks and makes the eyes water.
We
gale
Instead
night.
which
freezing Siberian siver\o,
a
lakes
take out our
we have to experience all the peculiarities of the local climate. The desert has changed into naked, grayishyellow, silent mounds. The mountains in the distance are azure. The road is not a short one. Judging by the time it will take,
fur coats.
Apparently
Far away, between two
there are fourteen p’o-t’ai.
point out
Before
Urumchi
we
to us.
reach the Chinese city
There
Russian concession. Russian type.
Shop);
they
hills
We
“Yuveleer”
a
is
we
broad
the names:
read
pass through a former
street
“Conditerskaya”
Bardigine
(Jeweler);
with low houses of
Company.
(Pastry .
.
.
The
messenger from the firm of Belyankhan arrives and takes us to the living quarters
two rooms and in they
which
a foyer.
would have
distasteful to
all.
to take counsel
pletely filled in
are prepared
But
We go to G., Urumchi.
low white house with
a difficulty arises: In order to let us
to dispossess
with him.
—a
It
two
foreigners
this
is
so
the representative of Belyankhan,
appears that everything
There are no houses.
to stay in yurtas outside the city. [
— and
275
It ]
is
better.
We
is
shall
comhave
George gallops
ALTAI-HIMALAYA away with G. to find a site for our camp. Some curious people walk around us and they all insistently want to know who we are, where we come from, for what purpose and for how long, how
many
We
people are with us, and what
“Keep smiling.”
the signs
It
called the
conversation
Yes, yes, this sign
an entire table
appears that to-day
is
an important day.
with
filled
The
for-
Tu-t’u
him and announced to them that he had them. At the beginning of March mobili-
to
no complaint against
zation took place and called out, but that the
it
was announced that every one was
Dungans were not needed. The Dungans
were troubled, especially since the Dungan discharged from some posts. of
also needed.
is
is
Dungans
about our
is
about the intensity of work; about
at the G’s, there
For dinner eigners.
life there,
in the cases.
The
have dinner with the G’s.
America, about the
is
Dungans had been
In the city
officials
itself a
had been
dangerous band
Following the mobilization,
operating.
about 10,000 soldiers were sent toward Hami. •
April
•
•
•
•
1 2th
morning our people have refused to move beyond the town to the yurtas. They are afraid of being attacked by robbers. With George we went to C., to Chu-ta-hen, to Fan (who is in charge of the foreign section) and to the Tu-t’u himself. For Since
a
we
long time
passed through the Chinese
long rows of shops. Kashgar.
go
way
is
He was
office.
to
C.
via
The products
a sympathetic Italian
astonished at
all
who
Chuguchak, through
who
is
varied than in
in charge of the post
our experiences, and advised us Siberia,
that our friend, Allen Priest, went.
Chinese
more
are
Triple walls;
city.
Japan
—the
Chu-ta-hen
He
speaks several languages.
to
smiles,
is
a
same
young
and becomes
indignant about the events in Khotan and Karashahr, and assures us he
is
ready to help.
go through
all sorts
He
takes us to
of gates
and
Fan and
alleys;
[276]
the Tu-t’u.
we have
tea
We
with both
KARASHAHR — DZUNGARIA dignitaries,
and both
offer us
much
sugar and assure us that
Khotan and Karashahr mistakes were committed by the officials; that we are great people and that is why we must pardon in
They
small people. recur,
assure us that a thing of this sort will never
and that we can be absolutely calm,
any investigation
—not
a
We
word.
But
as to
all
these
go back through
Entire alleys filled with ginghams, hosiery, cheap
long bazaars.
At home
crockery and popular pictures. surprise.
Urumchi.
in
E.
meets us with a
I.
At the very moment when the Tu-t’u was assuring us and help and good
of his friendship
will,
our house was being
searched in great detail by the Chief of Police, accompanied
Again E.
was questioned about our
by
a Tartar translator.
art
works; again the same absurdity was committed from begin-
How
ning to the end. Tu-t’u
can one believe the assurances of the
?
After dinner
I
go
to arrange a passage
Siberia, just as for Priest.
To
two weeks. are
I.
crowded.
we may
and
into
more comfortable
To-day
I
is
moving
succeed in lodgings.
I
—
all
some one
is
the houses
leaving the
at least for a short
Keep smiling!
spoke to three Chinese higher
fifty-two years old;
not arrive before
impossible
say that in five days
city
so
The answer may
find better quarters
They
through Altai through
time
Keep smiling!
officials,
thus: “I
am
have been honorably received in twenty-
No one in my life ever prohibited me from working freely on my peaceful art-work. No one in my life has ever arrested me; no one in my life has ever taken away my revolver as a means of defense. No one in my life has ever sent me forcibly in a direction which I did not desire. No one in my life has convoyed prisoners together with me. No one has ever No one has ever refused to take into treated me as a robber. three countries.
consideration
the
matter of health.
Now
request of
a
middle-aged lady based on a
But the Chinese
our only desire
is
officials
have done
all
this.
to leave as speedily as possible the borders
[277]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA of China where they insult so flagrantly the peaceful cultural
expedition of America.”
The Governor-General and the Vice-Governor do not comment. They give assurances that in Urumchi no one will touch me. But behind our backs at the same moment All this was said.
they are
making
all cases
and trunks.
and E.
a search
Keep
I.
has, without reason, to
open
smiling!
April 13th
We most
some
search for
This night they have stolen a
difficult.
During the night
high wall was broken and the horse was taken
a
The dogs
out of the stable. thieves
worked and
will not find
The
barked.
hostlers slept.
Of
the horse disappeared.
But maybe one can buy
it.
Urumchi it is horse from G.
In
sort of suitable house.
The
course the police
back from the local
it
Kirghiz.
The drums
With
thunder.
regiment marches.
red banners, the newly formed
But F. (the director of
Real ragamuffins.
Look at Wonderful bands they are!” Keep
the Russo-Asiatic Bank), calms us: “This the soldiers near
Hami.
is
nothing.
smiling!
Smilingly the Chinese
you
to relate in
attitude
tell
America
all
take photos in Tun-huang.
It is
this
on
interesting
However,
his
On
way
does not
know how
the so-called imperial road,
here, he
was under the
fire
He
relates
was
of the
organized than the Siberia.
very strange
in the six
volumes of
to return to
interesting to hear the tales of those
way.
A
your adventures.”
will be for
it
have long ago been reproduced.
He
F. arrives.
“How
Also they did not permit Priest to
toward themselves.
Pelliot these caves
us:
who were
it is
state
troops.
many
horrors.
[278]
He G.
trapped in
impossible.
arrested, detained,
Hunghutze who
Shanghai.
While
and afterward he
are sometimes better
tells
arrives.
of past
New
events in tales
about
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA the atrocities of the regiment of Anenkoff:
hacked to pieces the families of sixteen having
first
attacked
women.
the
all
How
the officer, V.,
regiment,
officers in his
Where
the image of
is
humanity ? •
•
•
•
•
April 14th
A
of Bogdo-ula
which
is
glistening.
One may wonder;
“live holy people.”
Drums,
begins.
would be
calls
is
to
examine more
are the so-called generals
commerce and
education.
no minister of transportation;
if
so,
mysterious system of industry?
Industry asked one sick the latter said:
man
“The same
When
and
One hopes that how could one
How
?
does
And where
the Minister of Education enlighten the people? this
the psy-
closely
account for the exasperating condition of the roads
is
site
To-day the holiday of Ramazan
?
Here
officials.
ministers of finance, of there
has not a
from the mosques and crowds of people.
interesting
chology of the local
the mountains
These are the same mountains beyond
been reserved for them in Altai
It
The snow on
vivid day, full of sunshine.
the Minister of
about the condition of his health,
your industry.”
as
And
the Tu-t’u
“modestly” said that the grateful population had erected a monu-
ment
to
The
him
for the prosperity of the district!
system of taxation
is
remarkable.
For example,
gold mines, taxes are being assessed according to the of
workmen,
Now
Of
course,
leads to the depletion of the gold-bearing
into the shall
little
number
quite irrespective of the results of the works.
on the Black Irtysh there are 30,000 people excavating. all this
at the
house near the Russo-Asiatic Bank.
We
move Probably we
soil.
have to stay there two weeks. •
•
•
•
•
April 15th Tales about the Tu-t’u. times tried to replace
The Peking government
him but
has
many
the shrewd Tu-t’u has gathered
[279]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA signatures
from the
of the population”
Yan
of
local beys
and sent
made up by him
to
Peking the “petition
saying that only the presence
had guaranteed the peace of the country.
the Tu-t’u
the peace of the province of the Tu-t’u
But
the peace of Death.
is
This administrator affirms that the construction of factories and the development of manufacture creates a workers’ class and that is
why one must
not develop industry and build factories.
In 1913 this administrator suspected his eight relatives of treach-
He
ery.
therefore arranged a banquet, invited
own
during that dinner, with his
and the guards
the
at
same
all
and
officials
hands, shot the chief suspect;
table
made an end
seven
to the
In 1918 the Tu-t’u had a grievance against one of the
others.
He sent the disfavored one to Hami and on the way Amban was “pasted with paper” and by this unique method
Ambans. the
In the “Garden of Tortures” of Mirbeau this
he was strangled.
invention of evil was omitted.
Of ment
course the collection of funds for the erection of the
monu-
was conducted throughout the whole
district
for the Tu-t’u
by forced subscriptions.
And
“from the grateful popula-
as a gift
tion” appeared an ugly copper figure with gilded epaulettes
For the improvement of the morale of
stars.
Tu-t’u prohibits
them from subscribing
the best Chinese newspapers.
It
is
his officials, the
to the foreign as well as
monstrous to see
these
all
medieval measures in the days of the evolution of the world. a
few
sensitive
young
sad smile of the
officials, it is
Amban Pan
in
very
Aksu.
difficult. I
I
is
forget that the population
for
who
why
For the
his only
There
is
one
very old, and his “benevolent” strangulation of
the huge country cannot continue for long.
officials
remember
understand
newspapers were from the postmaster Cavalieri. hope: the Tu-t’u
and
One should
not
remembers well those few Chinese
did not pillage and did not manifest their hatred
humanity.
They speak highly [
280
]
of
a
certain
Taotai
of
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA They remember
Chugutchak.
father of our acquaintance
was buried, the whole
When
from Aksu.
city
warmly Pan-Tajen,
well and
the
the old Pan-Tajen
accompanied the funeral procession.
Unlike the usual custom, the old
official
did not leave any
money
because he did not take any bribes.
To-day
is
the holiday of
colored dress.
The
Ramazan. The
people pay
city
is
attired in vividly
In the morn-
each other.
visits to
ing about two thousand people listen to the sermon of a Mullah in the
open
field.
Two Chinese
visits
— Chu-ta-hen and Fan, with
The young Chu-ta-hen openly sympathizes with us and his keen eyes can look straight at us. Fan more often averts his eyes. Now he has the new excuse that all our difficulties have come from the Peking government which did not notify translators.
But from October 12th until to-day
Sinkiang about our coming.
Fan had enough time
to get in
no need
fault of
April
to
blame the
touch with Peking and there
is
Sinkiang on Peking.
1 6th
Strange information reached us about the pillage of the
Tun-huang.
coes of
If this
report
is
true,
fres-
then such vandalism
has to be investigated as an entirely unlicensed destruction of a
They
uniquely preserved monument.
say,
“Some American”
merchants came, cut out pieces of the frescoes and succeeded in carrying
away “many
cases.”
seems that Chinese pursued the
It
robbers but, as usual, were unsuccessful; and as a result the
ment
is
defaced.
The world
of learning should not fail to in-
vestigate the destruction of this Priest,
who
Of
unique shrine.
course, Allen
probably was in Tun-huang during the
give authentic and detailed information. this fact for
information.
monu-
We
can only
How indignant would
he learn about the destruction of the
[281]
fall
set
may
down
be Pelliot should
monument which
he studied
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA Here the whole foreign colony knows about
and wrote about.
what happened. Just
now
a regiment
is
passing in the
that this collection of ragamuffins can
The shrewd
Tu-t’u
times he calls into the
show
Is
street.
possible
it
any one ?
resistance to
playing on these torn strings.
is
Dungans; now the Moslems; again
the
life
Kalmucks and then
Some-
Or he may bring
the Kirghiz.
out vari-
colored roosters and announce that he whose roosters will conquer, shall be
And
first.
prepared to conquer his the administrator. plot
existing
genuity.
We
.
.
or
Or, a
the rooster of a certain color
also, the
administrator
The
may
slavemaster
invent a non-
Tun-huang.
looting of the mosques of the Trans-Caspian district
And
are cut out this
mean?
much
has
in-
.
are indignant about the plundering of
tioned.
already
thus accomplishing the desire of
rivals,
revolt.
is
in
and Is
is
also
The men-
Merv, the Oasis of Anou, valuable mural
tiles
What
does
looted. it
Damascus
is
also destroyed.
possible that certain cosmic laws are being
“Those, going toward the abyss, continue the path of
fulfilled.
their destiny, in tremor.”
So
it
said in the teachings of the
is
wise concerning the fulfillment of dates.
April 17th
During the long
dreamed
travels events are slipping by; only lately
and
of a trip to the Easter Islands,
now
the submersion of these islands three years ago. that the giants abysses, is
of Atlantis have forever been
and the flow of the cosmos
fulfilling
its
became of
first
Is it
merged
us of
possible
in the
Sanrana of Buddhism
deserts,
some of the smaller
And
new
magnitude.
thousand population sank into the
this
tell
During the period of our
unalterable course.
marches through mountains and stars
—
they
we
sea.
[282]
a
island with ten
Lakes have dried up and
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA new unexpected
The cosmic energy
currents gushed forth.
firms the steps of the evolution of humanity. missible” fairy tale refuse
of
Yesterday’s “inad-
The
already being investigated by science.
is
being burned and the ashes are fertilizing the seedlings
is
new
con-
conquests.
In the silence of the suburb of Urumchi, one speaks in a comprehensive
about the
way about the tasks of the evolution of humanity, movement of nations, about knowledge, about the and sound. ...
significance of color this
broad reasoning.
.
.
.
Some
gratifying to listen to
It is
islands have
new
depths and out of the depths have arisen
merged
into the
ones, powerful ones.
April 18th
A
journey out of town arranged by
ta-hen.
of hell.
Yan Chang Lu and Chu-
We visited the temple “of the god-devil,” with a portrayal A poor temple. The images are ugly. Chu assures us
that this
is
Buddhism but afterwards he himself
such “popular primitive religion” has nothing in
Buddhism.
Hell
is
long space on the
confesses that
common
represented very undecoratively.
floor
A
recently completed:
is
In an ob-
arranged a group of shoddy figures,
unique garden of
grinding the sinners with millstones.
with a press covered with
with
nails.
mens; they are boiling them
tortures.
They
They
They
are crushing
are
them
are ripping their abdo-
in tar; they are tearing
them
apart
with hooks and are injuring the extremities of the sinners by
all
the possible measures within the compass of Chinese fantasy. Especially revolting self-satisfied
is
the conduct of the righteous ones,
and arrogant, watch the
and balconies of Paradise.
It
is
tortures
a pitiful
Afterward we
little
bridges
not indicated to what section
of hell the Tu-t’u himself will be assigned.
makes
from
who,
All this curio-museum
and meaningless impression. visit
the statue of the Tu-t’u with
[283]
all its lifeless
ALTAI-HIMALAYA copper “grandeur”; then the pavilions and the pond which the Tu-t’u has constructed.
Tao temple
river, to the
him
side of
god of
is
somewhat
better
the
This
god of thunder; and
a dinner
may well astonish one. From Bogdo-ula, clouds
We
which
is
city
named,
we have little
its
more
soli-
seen
is
hills.
seen in Chinese
sitting
interest;
on the
is
a
there.
are rising.
It
ganize a club.
many It is
The
becomes cold toward
The red temple, after which Toward evening again a game
crowd of people.
nationalities;
floor.
have to find time to go to old Urumchi
shall
is
and then
with B.; the broadness of his views
ten versts away.
In the yard all
to
very soon becomes intoxicated and his son
satisfying conversation
evening.
due
is
the nearby rock
and of
with the tiresome
Yan Chang Lu sends him home.
is
From
unattractive
it is
old
A
this
is
After this there remains to be seen the temple of the
Turkestan.
tea
Probably
the surrounding mountains and
all
one
impression of the temple
the most satisfying spot that
is
On
the god-of-all-gods.
is
The
insects.
finer.
and
city
ascend a mountain behind the
god of horses and animals; on the
on the mountain.
tary location
whole
and
we
which
in
a six-armed
is
other side
the
Later
simple, •
human. •
new
of pegs.
Swings, exercises, May-poles;
There
children.
the
•
•
is
It is
also a project to or-
joyous to behold.
•
April igth It
much eral
become
has
cold.
discomfort.
On
This does not save the god of water from account of the drought the Governor-Gen-
gave orders that the god of water be taken from the temple,
and that savages
his
hands and
who whip
feet
be chopped
the
We
have read about
the gods because of their lack of zeal, but
appears that these savages live in is
off.
Governor-General
who
Urumchi and
considers
[284]
it
that their leader
himself a master
of
— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA who knows whether
But
Chinese science.
Did he not have
lazy one?
the hostile intention of stirring
the people against the Governor-General
may
of gods one to the
expect
sorts
all
The
“government.”
god was simply
the
With such
?
a
up
number
a
of alliances of those hostile
accustomed
local inhabitants are so
to
such an administrator that the strangest things begin to seem to
them
One cannot
quite natural:
One cannot newspapers
—
this
oil
—
this
natural.
is
One cannot
this is natural.
One cannot have
natural.
is
—
a doctor
receive
— this
is
Everything becomes natural.
natural.
From ground
prospect for
build factories
smoke
the mountain crevices curl clouds of fire
of coal
is
—the under-
creeping out and the most precious resources
of the country are vanishing.
Toward Ku-ch’eng,
in the Valley of
traces of a butchery of
many
Death,
How
And
But the province
will he
come ?
Who
the silence of the cemetery will be the
difficult to
it is
They
come? ?
In
understand which tomb
Hami
from the bazaars into the
racks frees the city from a dangerous element. the fate of these
arms ?
armed gangs and upon
A
pass bands of raga-
say that the Tu-t’u believes that
forcibly gathering the ragamuffins
Shanghai newspaper
bar-
But what will be
whom
will they turn
arrives
with a descrip-
an assault by Chinese armies on an American mission and
the killing of the missionary.
have upset one, but else?
will
will begin the internal revolt
in the direction of
muffins, called soldiers.
tion of
Who
first.
During the night
their rusty
is
only the cemetery vies with this great calmness.
will this calmness of death explode?
Whence
heaps of bones
Most of these dead ruins
thousands.
stand as witnesses of butchery and treason.
“calm.”
lie
They
ask us
Formerly,
now no one whether we
give us permission to
go
to
is
this
information would
even astonished.
And how
are sure that the Chinese will
Chuguchak? [285]
We
answer,
“And
ALTAI-HIMALAYA where thing
is
When we
violence.
ask us “Is
tives
They
possible.”
it
relate cases of
tell
us that every-
absurd prohibitions and
are astonished at the “local affairs” the na-
possible that in
know about Sinkiang?” reality we would never have Bogdo-ula snow
fell
;
America and Europe they do
we had known one-half continued our way through
not
On
They
Chinese put us?”
else will the
of the
If
one has to light the
China.
stoves.
April 20th
During the night everything became white.
we have
since line
It is
a long time
snow mountains with all their fine crystalMountains, mountains! what magnetic forces are
lines.
seen
What
concealed within you!
a
symbol of quietude
is
revealed
The legends of the greatest valor are conceived near mountains. The most human words find outlet on snowy heights. Toward evening, snow fell also in the valin every sparkling peak!
leys,
and the whole
We
kevich comes.
district
took on a wintry character.
speak about
all
the subjects near to us
wanderings and adventures; they comprise a complete inexpressible places
And
charm
and on
lies
invisible
this accessibility
—his
epic.
An
in the fact that people leave their native
wings make the earth small and
is
Tsen-
accessible.
the beginning of the attainment of far-off
worlds. •
•
•
•
•
April 2 1 st
snowy
snow
since
It
is
strange.
F. does not believe in the horror of
some quarters
in
Bombay.
He
There
and
is
blue.
cages with
women
morning.
exist.
Bogdo-ula appeared
all
cannot believe that these shameful
But every chauffeur knows
without any desire on your part takes you to see
it,
this hell
for the existence of this, that the earth has endured so
—
and is
it
many
thousands of years?
M.
says,
“The Chinese
desire to be left in peace.”
[286]
I
agree and
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA I
always stand for the inviolability of freedom
to be
—but
then
has
it
The most unpardonable
fundamental and not hypocritical.
things on earth are hypocrisy, ignorance and treason.
April 22 nd
By
six in the
morning
all is
ula creep billows of milky clouds.
“The of
went
old lama
wisdom.
He walked
who was wringing the water
from the man
as to
But the
jushri.
.
.
.
forth to look for Manjushri, the ruler a
long distance and finally he saw a
out skins.
from the
Along Bogdo-
covered with snow.
skins!
Before
him
Complete
stood a
little pail
The lama
dirt.
whether he had heard of the path
man
him
only offered
man with
inquired to
Man-
drink from the dirty
a
The lama was dismayed and hastened quickly away. But he met a clairvoyant lama who reproved him saying, “Stupid
pail.
lama; you met Manjushri himself and the very dirt would have
become
a beverage of
you had had the courage
if
to
So do they speak of the courage of contact with Matter.
taste it.”
Very
wisdom
significant are the conversations of these days.
The
Olets
know
The
Torguts.
slander against this legend becomes
comprehensible.
about
Issa as
of the legend about Issa as well as
Every
lama
enlightened
about any other historical
still
speaks
do the
more
in-
confidently
fact.
Highly interesting are the words of At-Tabari about the promission
phetic
Kings”)
:
“The
of
Mohammed
(“History
of
Prophets
revelation of the divine messenger
impartations of truth, which
came
to
him
as the
and
began with
morning glow.
Then he was filled with the desire for solitude and remained in the cave on Mount Hira. And so to him came the eternal True One and said ‘Mohammed, thou art god’s messenger.’ “ ‘I knelt,’ God’s messenger says, ‘and I waited. Then I slowly left.
My
heart
was trembling.
enwrap me, enwrap me, and
my
I
came
fear
[287]
to
left.
Hadija and said to
And He came
again
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and
me: “Mohammed,
said to
Messenger of God.”
The
am
I
Gabriel,
and thou
art the
” .
.
me”
exclamation “Enwrap
gives authentic occult character
to the narrative.
“Varaka the son of Naufal divine revelation which
Would
that
expel thee!’
might
I
—‘Shall
I
was
Mohammed,
said to
sent to Moses, the son of
which thou
be expelled by them?’
man
the
thy people shall asked.
appeared with that aroused
hostility
In truth they shall consider thee a blasphemer.
and
harass thee, shall exile thee
of
is
Umran.
Mohammed
appeared, without having
hast
against himself.
They shall The words
when
time
live until the
he answered, ‘Verily never has a
‘Yes,’
‘This
fight against thee.’
Varaka increased Mohammed’s firmness and
dis-
pelled his unrest.” •
•
•
•
•
2yd
April
Again the sun China
is
Information comes that the road to
here.
Every one without exception
absolutely impassable.
is
speaks of war, speaks of pillage, and of course of the approaching
This path
heat.
is
closed.
It
is
also strange that outside of F.
no one has heard about the exporting of the huang.
Of
course Priest must
What an crite
old hypocrite
know
is
being taught there.
are judged
all
Some
“One
say,
the robberies
recesses
And
and
it is
where nothing
letter
Bailey.
will reach
has
They
affair.
appears that this hypo-
You
by what
can imagine what
statutes of this law,
briberies ordered
is
more enlightening
by the
officials.
to
know
the hidden
“aired,” for otherwise one could not
see the thousand-year-old atrophy.
no one
from Tun-
has to study China from the front entrance
from the ocean.” But
A
It
even has a school of law in Urumchi.
“law”
that
about that
all
the Tu-t’u!
is
frescoes
him through
Of
course, the Tu-t’u thinks
the desert.
come unexpectedly from Sikhim, from Colonel write about the books that were sent to us.
[288]
But
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA the majority of
them have never reached
Probably the
America.
letters also
No
us.
news from
disappeared or are being held
back.
What
pure
air
we have
to-day! •
•
•
•
•
April 24th
We
received an invitation
affairs,
Fan, to come for dinner to-morrow.
With one hand
to prohibit everything
invite us for dinner!
not at
And It
from the Commissioner of Foreign
skillful,
all
If this
is
Is this
not hypocrisy
?
and with the other
to
diplomacy then
is
“skillful”
because a clever action
is
judged by
it
results.
of course a hypocritical dinner cannot improve our relations.
would be
better to give us permission to visit the
Incidentally, our
monasteries.
Buddhist
arms have been taken away and
have not been returned.
The sionary sheff, a
G.
of guests
list is
is
most absurd one: the Catholic mis-
a
Dutch; Kalin, a German; Cavalieri, an
Moslem; and some Chinese.
We
These “Kerjaks”
—Old
Believers
—have
Channi-
shall see.
us about the villages of “Kerjaks” in
tells
Italian;
Mongolian
preserved their
Altai.
own
cus-
toms: Their chapels, their readers of the scriptures, their food,
and
complete isolation from “worldly men.”
their
neither vodka nor tobacco.
and
In the midst of
cattle.
behind
their fences.
use
They deal in apiaries and furs, fish the Dungans and the Kirghiz stand
their three villages of fifty or sixty houses; trates
They
and nothing new pene-
Probably they keep up relations with
their fellow-believers in the Russian Altai.
And
it
strange and
is
where they
wondrous
—in
the
are praising Altai. There, the
the last
A
war
And on
in the
and there
the river Katun,
it
is
went
to Tibet
[289]
are hitherto-
said, will
world and afterward peaceful
year ago an embassy
district every-
mountains are beautiful,
the cedars are powerful, the rivers are swift
unseen flowers.
whole
occur
labor.
from Mongolia com-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA prising thirty
On
Mongols and three Russians.
border twenty Mongols and two Russians died. report they died of
may have happened
some kind
in the districts of geysers
But the
or because of winter gales.
because
it is
Of
of gases.
difficult to
fact
the
Tibetan
According
to the
something
course,
and old volcanos
meaningful, especially
is
invent such a thing.
April 25th
The
and white seaweeds, bamboo
fins of sharks, fungi, red
shoots, lotus seeds, pigeon eggs, trepangs,
and
slippery dishes.
We
finish.
They
flavor
and many other slimy
them with sweet
and
rice
roses.
In the pavilion of the Governor-General’s garden are
three tables; one entirely of Chinese, the second, entirely Moslem,
where no pork
is
served.
The
third,
is
an international one; there
are represented China, Russia, America,
it
on the ground of
is
smiling, probably because he hates
his strict vegetarianism.
full of the subtlest hypocrisy.
all
His seaweedy face
foreigners deeply
possible that
Is it
explains
and
Fan thinks
is
that
absurd dinner washes away every affront of the Khotan and
Karashahr
Not one word
officials?
is
an investigation of what has happened.
and diplomacy? parent. of
He
Fan, the host, does not eat anything himself.
Italy.
this
Germany, Holland and
On
his face
After dinner,
we
stroll
pass the statue of the
hospitable C.
The day ends
And where
only hypocrisy
—so
are politics
clear, so ap-
around the pond, on the bank
Then
which stand two junkas.
We
is
mentioned by Fan about
the low
bows of Fan.
Governor and we pay a well.
visit to
the
C. takes us by motor through
the encircling road.
A fresh wind, and very clear—truly heavenly
—mountains.
evaporation
makes the
The
far-off chains of
transparently sapphire.
from the newly
snow
mountains and peaks ethereal and
Nearer are purple
walls flooded by the sun.
fallen
It is
hills,
and dented
so vivid, so fresh
[290]
and
clay
beautiful!
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA
rww And
even “the vegetarian” hypocrite Fan, begins to be trans-
formed into
a jellied seaweed. •
•
•
•
•
April 26th
The Kirghiz
of the horned owl.
On
hood above the
eyes.
tiny
the
On
crown
the
a tuft of feathers
is
hand sometimes
They appear
their
Just like the ancient
heads are many-colored, quilted helmets.
\uya\ of Russian warriors.
On
on small white horses.
are galloping
is
with a
a falcon
group which might
like a
And
have come out of the twelfth or fifteenth centuries.
here in
the street stands the motor of C., a powerful Packard which, with-
out damage, went
The motor belonged
way through from Peking
the
all
to the Russo-Asiatic
Urumchi.
to
Bank, but the Governor-
General forbade them to use the machine and they had to at practically
Merely by
nothing.
appearance the Packard
its
reminds us that the way from Urumchi
And
tionably be traversed by motor.
sell it
Peking can unques-
to
human
only
ignorance
and hypocrisy repeat the same paralyzing “No!”
Again a cold wind.
Again the heavenly Bogdo-ula
is
a trans-
lucent blue.
Here again
we gave
a
is
a truly favorable sign:
hundred
rived to-day.
He
Ians in
Karashahr
is
and sheep.
no food. There
is
And now
no one
herd of horses cannot be
remain here
to
(at
He
whom
an encampment)
left,
to sell the animals,
so he cannot
until our departure
money and
did not succeed in selling
go with
us.
and then will return.
He walked
and the
He
us.
He
speaks with an excellent accent.
[291
]
He
is
drank
is
ten days in order
to explain the affair.
he could not go with
will
This
Up
to
now we
have seen nothing objectionable in the Tibetan-Buddhists. a pity that
ar-
the horses are thin and there
whom
typical of a fine type of Tibetan. to return the
Tibetan lama to
brought back the money, excusing himself
because he could not accompany us. his horses
A
It is
very well read and tea
and dried the
ALTAI-HIMALAYA cup.
He
in
place.
its
ate pot-cheese
We went
out of
and washed
town toward
and put the chair
his plate
the lakes.
April 2jth
He
Note the character of the negotiations with Fan: that a certain river flows eastward, but he insists
They said.
How
what he has
point out personal evidence but he persists in his
And
declaration. facts.
told
flows westward.
the maps, but he repeats
call his attention to
They
it
is
so
against evidence, against maps, against
it is
can one conduct transactions under such conditions!
The border between Mongolia and China is not clearly defined at many points. Sharasiime up to the present remains in an undefined zone. Of course the Chinese delay, in every way, the final division. •
•
•
•
•
April 2 8th Pilgrims are not permitted to enter Tibet.
gathered together secretly and
set
out for Tibet in February.
Here they know about
Will they succeed in crossing the border? the black stone
—they await the stone.
about the legend of
A
“Issa, the Best of
series of details
is
pocrisy of the Tu-t’u able
This
officials.
is
Some Khoshuts
The Buddhists
Human
communicated
also
know
Sons.”
to us regarding the hy-
and how he freed himself from undesir-
no longer old lacquered Chinese work,
but the grimace of a ruined mask.
And
the dark idol of the
Tu-t’u stands here, and on the dark body glow the gold epaulettes
and the ribbons and
legs of the idol;
One
hypocrite
Broadly spread are the copper
and Fan, with the grin of
commands, another hypocrite
the third hypocrite in
where, comes
stars.
this
Khotan
cleans his
rifle
a skull,
bows low.
secretly grins,
for treason.
From
custom in Sinkiang of making an end of
agreeable” people after dinner, behind their backs?
[292]
and
“dis-
From what
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA depths of hatred for humanity, from what centuries of darkness,
came laid is
technique of treason
this
with “scientific” degrees.
Where
are
this
Tu-t’u
is
a
condemnations of the
and of treason and
which they
lies
Throughout the
being over-
master of
sale
Fan
arts.
And where of
slavishly serve
day there
entire
is
which they
against the fetishism to
their
darkness
lawyer and a writer.
a doctor of sciences, a
their writings
And
?
are
are
prey?
human
beings
?
and
the noise of a dry
is
burning buran. •
•
•
•
•
April 2 gth
—a
After a hot buran
dry windy day.
There
whip
the
kill
animals for ten days; to
god of water
The
for the drought.
sell
and Kirghiz,
as well as
The Dungans
mock and
scorn
in-
I
it.
quire for whose benefit this absurd act of savage fetishism
conceived
It
?
seems that
for the Sinkiang Chinese. still
this,
comedy
this entire It
a prey to the primitive
means
form of
is
to
Kalmucks
Buddhists,
are simply deriding such fetishism. also
of the
no meat, and
and Tibetans
Moslems,
The
rain.
command
Moslems, Tartars and Sarts are ridiculing the Tu-t’u not to
no
is
is
invented expressly
that the Chinese alone are
fetishism.
We
did not
know
believing that the Chinese were committed to “the justice”
And
of Confucius. of his soul,
who
is
is
it
not the Tu-t’u himself, in the depths
going to whip the god of water
god of water” belongs only of the
god
to the Chinese;
?
Because “the
hence the whipping
needed for the benefit of the Chinese only.
is
And
Chinese “doctors” and “magisters” are seriously encouraging vicious absurdity.
And
the this
they occupy themselves with absurdity
very strenuously.
As
before,
each night troops of ragamuffins are being
patched in the direction of Hami. “mobilization” directed? the people’s
army
of
Against
whom
is
this
dis-
unique
Perhaps against some detachment of
Feng?
Of
course, all these ragamuffins dis-
[293]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA patched by night are not soldiers but simply fetishes unfit for
Out
anything.
Anenkoff, only two usually work. also looked
which were given by
of twenty-four cannon,
upon only
But probably the cannon are
To-day a big parade of “armies”
as fetishes.
has been ordered.
We Is
ask ourselves,
“Why
did
Fan arrange
not this the beginning of some
a dinner for us?”
In Khotan
difficulties ?
Taotai’s persecutions also started with the forty-course dinner
“We
an honorary escort and with the assurance, All in
all,
a peculiar
among
here
own measures. museum is preserved
and
are your friends.”
the Sinkiang Chinese the
meaning and we cannot approach
the
all
word
friend has
the local psychology
with our In a
people delude themselves into accepting these
of the Tu-t’u;
moribund
evil
the compilation of the ordinances
remnants
as the
fragments of former
civilizations.
People are led into error by the “scientific degree” of Tu-t’u and People are led into error, thinking
the vegetarianism of Fan.
that the remains of fetishism are solitary
hidden in
No, here
remote oceans.
islands of
marshes and in
far-off
in the capital of
Sinkiang, under the wise rule of the Tu-t’u, fetishism as the state religion
and
is
is
commands
sustained by the
set
up
of the
“ruler.”
Our
letters
and telegrams do not
they are held back. a diary. to
E.
America.
I.
If
Kam,
The policemen asked
said that the diary
E.
had been
do not doubt that I.
whether
sent
this
kingdom
I
keep
from Kashgar
only our books would not disappear!
one hide them in In
We
arrive.
Where
shall
of fetishism?
to develop the fierceness
and
liveliness of the horses,
them with dry leopard meat and pounded tea. They tell of leopard spots which appear on the rumps of the horses. Luncheon at Cavallieri’s. With the Europeans is one Chinese.
they feed
The Chu
conversation says,
“Do
is
about our
ill-fated
adventures in Sinkiang.
not judge China by Sinkiang.
[294]
Good Chinese do
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA not
come
here.”
I
better Chinese.
I
him
tell
frankly that
would be happy
to speak of
men, did not permit any avenue
We
am
hoping
still
China
to see
in terms of
the entire Sinkiang province, with the exception of
praise, but
three
I
for favorable conclusions.
compare the joyous mood we experienced
in Sikhim, in
the Himalayas, in India, in Ladak, with the prisonlike feelings in Sinkiang.
.
.
. •
•
•
•
•
April 30th Last
summer
Amdoss
stroyed in the
Amban
of
responded to
district.
Amdoss asked
his call.
“The Dungan armies
Many Tanguts
machine guns.
of Sining used
The Gegen it is
nearly seventy Buddhist monasteries were deof the
perished.
The Goloks course of the coming summer The Dungans have destroyed
the Goloks for help.
During the
possible there will be clashes.
the celebrated image of Maitreya.”
A of a
lama from Kobdo
new
collecting a
is
The Goloks have made
image.
men from each house. Dungan armies. And the
service three
erected for
being supported. it
is
ments which are apparent
In Labrang, barracks are anti-Buddhist
“Chu spoke
respectable Chinese
to the world, there goes
correctly yesterday
do not go
to this
and
He
in the desert.”
is
when he
to Sinkiang.”
He
thing will result from our protests.
customed
not correct!
Even
Kerim-bek.
It
in is
with equal indifference to the good and
that
is
we
is
to leave Sinkiang.
E.
I.
on an inner
site
declared that
“Here you get
ac-
you do to the sand
Khotan we were
able
impossible to “listen to
has
the evil.”
no
Now
illusions,
will have to face all kinds of difficulties.
[295]
F.
itself.
F. doubts that any-
says:
to everything just as
to deal with the robber
the chief task
movement
In addition to the move-
which one can appreciate only on the
agitation
knows
a rule to draft for
All of this has not been printed anywhere and
very important for the future.
repeats,
fund for the construction
she It is
ALTAI-HIMALAYA rightly said
by the Hindus: “Bring one rupee and every one
will believe; bring a million
The Orenburg told that we must is
We
horse became sick. lead
he would recover. In Lhasa
and they will doubt.”
him
So the
local “experienced” people tell us.
On
a temple of Gessar-Khan.
to the legend,
—one
either side of the
red and one white.
when Gessar-Khan
Will not the
these horses neigh.
were
twice around the Kirghiz tombs, then
entrance are the images of two horses
According
We
bled him.
approaches Lhasa
of these horses be heard
call
soon ?
We works
are discussing
From Kashgar
better than the radio.
The
messages.
six wireless
“The long
news from Sining.
there
only thing that one
ear” of Asia
no reply
is
may
to
believe
is
that the messages are being detained and, instead of their intended
some
destination, reach
entirely different place. •
May At
twelve-thirty,
•
•
luncheon with the Chinese. The court
Under
and colorfully decorated.
effectively
with
•
ist
many
vivid rugs, tables are set for a
side are standing three yurtas for the is
a big
is
very
canopy hung
hundred people. Along-
Moslems where
all
the food
prepared without pork under the special supervision of a Mos-
The
lem.
entire foreign colony
Germans, English, cials are all
He
Fan.
diet, or
Sarts,
is
does not eat anything except bread.
hatred, or the
acme
—an
old
to get
drunk
is
the
Opposite us It
is
offi-
sits
either his
of suspicion.
Here
man who
into disgrace with
his ruling brother for his liberal views.
one
Italians,
The Chinese
Kirghiz and Tartars.
present except the Tu-t’u himself.
brother of the Tu-t’u
first
There are
present.
fell
also
sits
the
During the dinner the
commander
of the fortress.
He
begins to be offensive; he breaks a few wine glasses; he pushes a lady
and
finally kicks over the tray
with ice-cream.
This
inci-
dent of the ice-cream forces the Chinese to take measures and
[296]
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA commander
the
of Police
and
of the fortress
own
his
removed by the
is
Of
soldiers.
the Chinese, the most
all
indignant at the conduct of the commandant,
He
son of the Tu-t’u.
aid of the Chief
the nine-year-old
is
even has tears in his eyes for very indigna-
tion.
A
youthful chorus sings a few songs.
“We
me,
used to come to look
when you came
door
Kuindjy and
V.
his wife,
Kuindjy!
We
less liberal
speeches, his
The memory
and so
L.,
how
recall
you through
at
Kuindjy.”
to
in
aid to students in
On
open the club.
In the evening
Amdoss
all
courses.
of Kuindjy does not rust.
new
week they
In a
a small stage of the club, they are plan-
ning to give Moslem and Chinese
the
knew
Urumchi we speak about birds; we recall his fear-
After luncheon they play pegs and tennis. will
tells
a crack in the
appears that she
It
he fed the
anonymous
Mrs. E. P. P.
plays.
reports reach us concerning the events in
about the oppression of the monasteries by
district
Chinese soldiers; about the entrance of Chinese
armies into
Labrang; about the destruction of the image of Maitreya.
The
dates are approaching.
Late in the evening
Tumbal becomes
furious; the people are
bringing a big Easter cake and eggs from G. and M.
To-morrow It is
is
Easter.
curious for us, passers-by, to hear
Sarts say about the to
movements
each other and wink:
this?
Because
escape.
And
this
“How
time, by
who must
freedom of or as he
is
will the Tu-t’u
sometimes
and
called,
now
get out of
whipping the gods, one
who must
clear
control the merchants
industrial
They whisper
China.
will not
.
They dream
away
the pillaging
the cock fight will not help.
about the unseen Cantonese
ambans;
in Central
what the Chinese and
.
.
and give the
cultural development.
district
About Feng,
Fyn, one speaks with greater reserve.
[297]
ALTAI-HI MALAYA To
But Canton draws the people’s attention.
the armies of Can-
ton are attributed qualities, existing and non-existing.
They come and extract
to
ask:
tooth.”
a
—
—
“Have you forceps?” “Why?” “Well, On our travels, amid the bonfires, the
scenes recalled pictures of Bosch or the Elder Breughel ; it
like Ostade.
is
Nevertheless, the tooth
and now
extracted and the
is
forceps are returned.
A
are laughing.
here?
It
Is
You can imagine how One may recall the anecdote
proves to be a “box of papers.”
two eminent
the
curious
godilos,
we
that?”
is
not this a Sogdi dialect, or are the Yafe-tides
combinations of idioms are created. of
“What
Chinese comes: “Kumashka-yashka.”
archaeologists
A
was discovered.
is
on which
how
lengthy discussion occurred as to
when suddenly
listening to the argument, smiled
our language
a stone slab
Razmo-cropo-godilos or Razmo-cropo-
expression,
to read the inscription,
who found
and
said, “All that
‘The weather has been
Improved combinations of
the driver of their cart,
rainy.’
it
means
in
”
different languages have a strange
effect.
As
a result
language.
A
we have little bit
who do
seen people of
Kalmuck,
becomes
is
even one
And when
two
such a
excited, he begins to talk in all five languages,
quickly, unintelligibly, but in his
Also he
know
a smattering of Tibetan,
or three Russian, Chinese and Sart words. linguist
not
own
opinion very convincingly.
very uncertain about his nationality; with unusual ease
he appears a Russian, a Chinese, a Torgut.
That
is
to say “ku-
mashka-yashka!” •
•
«
•
May 2nd
A
clear
morning.
Lamas
are
coming
to congratulate us
upon
They are saying: “Christ is risen.” Well, western clergymen, would you rejoice with the Buddhists on their holithe holiday.
[298]
.
From
a painting by Nicholas
Roerich
MONGOLIAN LAMA
Roerich Museum,
N Y .
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA We
days?
open our trunk
filled
with Buddhist pictures
the lamas, admire
hang them on the walls and, together with combined with the deep
the resonant colors
—we
scientific
symbols
of these figures.
Only knowledge without prejudice opens up
new
The
possibilities.
“incidental” of yesterday aligns
itself
with
moving files of evolution, and to-day’s “imperative” seems often to become simply an incidental experience. Yesterday, at dinner, some one told us it was improbable that we should be able to leave Urumchi soon. Can this be possible ? the
So much of the undelayable, so much of immediacy before us;
and here
is
complete
Even
friends not acting there? S. is
Or
in the telegraph or in the mail.
from now.
The
sus-
are
our
the date of the departure of
However, maybe something
not known.
in half a year
Why
Nothing from America!
pense of each day!
and
on the trunks!
Sitting
inertia.
M.
lost either
is
the telegrams will reach us
This also happens here.
The telegram
of April reached us in October.
May yd Tsampa-lama came from Kobdo; he camels in Ku-ch’eng. to the Tu-t’u, stay in,
They
had
He
and was given
a long conference
official
are awaiting the arrival of
Mongolian lamas remain under in
caravan of thirty
himself was immediately
an honor reserved for an
which reached us
left his
two
summoned a
yamen
to
not lower than the Taotai.
officials
Two
from Kobdo.
arrest as before.
The rumors
Karashahr are being confirmed.
A
tele-
gram is received about the transit vise. It means that we can move about May 15th. Here we can no longer receive the information from Sining about the Goloks.
Now we
Chuguchak and look over April 2nd, arrived only on
must attend
the
May
the telegram takes only one day.
baggage. 2nd. It
[299]
to
our carriages to
A
telegram, dated
To Bakhty
means
(the border)
that for about a
month
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the telegram
was lying
delivered a message
only there
may
in
foot one could have
from Chuguchak much more quickly.
If
not be Chinese persecutions! •
May
By
Chuguchak.
•
•
•
•
4th
Nevertheless, they chopped off the feet and hands of the poor
god of water for chopping them the Sinkiang
began
off,
when
began
it
to rain.
Is
it
and the
One
fore our arrival.
streets of
finished
possible that
Rain and snow
god needs such severe measures?
to fall
slimy mud.
They had hardly
his lack of zeal.
Urumchi changed
into black,
can imagine the condition here two weeks beIt is
not without cause that they
donkeys and horses often drown here.
would
It
tell
us that
nothing to
cost
have the merchants pave the bazaar, laying a pavement before
But here the all-powerful Tu-t’u does not exer-
each tiny shop. cise his
power.
The
the reservoirs of
“magister” of sciences
mud.
It
is
on good terms with
when he
another matter
is
necessary to shoot a suspected opponent in the back.
Chinese Emperor with an unusually high title,
a dinner
ceremony and
it
related
nobleman was honored by the
that about twenty years ago a
of the
It is
finds
was arranged by
title.
a local
For the bestowal
Amban.
a dinner of the choicest, a soldier
After the
came from out
the curtain, behind the back of the guest, and with a single swing of a saber cut off the head of the one honored by the Emperor’s favor. •
May
•
•
•
•
yth
In Turkestan one Mullah, because of the absence of an “unfaithful”
one from the mosque, gave orders
of water over his crown. “faithful” one died.
to
pour forty
After the seventeenth pail the unruly
What
is
there to
do about such logic?
Everything has started to move more quickly. drivers are found.
pails
Now we
have
[300]
Already the
to decide the route.
Three
—
:
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA alternative combinations are offered: First
motor
to
— Kuldja; from there by
Tashkent, and by a direct train to the East; the second
Chuguchak, Semipalatinsk, Novosibirsk; third
The
Zaisan, Irtysh, Semipalatinsk, Novosibirsk. tion
is
enticing,
where we go by boat along the
mountainous and going
to
some
hilly spaces.
hinder us?
would be no further was committed
went with
think that
Others think that Personally
time
this I
am
not
insolence, whereas, one of the greatest afin
Karashahr, beyond Kashgar.
town
B. out of
Dungan
in the direction of Bogdo-ula.
Rows
cemeteries.
of small \urgans
top always stands a pot, a vessel or chips of a pot; ancient \urgan
rite
The Chinese
it is
In spite of their
the dead.
for
medanism, the Dungans have kept some of customs.
through
Irtysh,
Because in Kashgar also they assured us that there
optimistic.
Endless
third combina-
Some
Opinions are divided.
the Chinese will feel a sense of shame.
We
mys,
But are not the Chinese again
sort of mischief will follow.
fronts
—Topolev
folk-religion
their
own
On
the
a sort of
Mohaminherent
and Shamanism have
left
their traces.
Filchner came.
May
seems that they permitted him
Arrangements with the
Topolev mys
drivers.
Three troy\as
to
yth
All are ostensibly amiable.
at Fan’s.
from going
that he promises not to hinder us
along the Zaisan.
in
surveys.
cost 660 Ians.
The morning
we
all
6th
Packing.
May
It
Much news
hear that the situation
payment
trict) to
is
to attract thirty
about Tsampa.
serious.
Ten
It
seems
to
Topolev mys
As
in Karashahr,
million Ians were given
Mongolian koshuns (Mongolian
dis-
the side of the Tu-t’u.
Toward evening we walked with [301
]
B.
on the
hills
surrounding
ALTAI-HIMALAYA the
Again
city.
are a
dozen
A
tragic.
is
attacked him, and in every
so,
relatives
in a closet
is
K., returned to his
and
good friends
his
man
above the young
Finally, they
where he hanged him-
monument
stands a high
with a big black cross and with a tearful
To-day
history surround-
way denounced him.
bound him and locked him
And
young man,
His
father after the civil war.
self.
The
and two monuments.
crosses
them
ing one of
In the middle of the barren field
a cemetery.
text.
.
.
.
The snow on Bogdo-ula days we shall go again on a
has
as sultry as in July.
melted considerably.
In eight
far-
off journey. •
May
•
•
•
•
8th
Rumors
“The Amban
are current:
under the pressure of the Tanguts.”
of 20,000
the Goloks are approaching?
This
army
of Sining fled with an
is
even
Is it
now
possible that
the beginning
of something prolonged.
How strange
it is
to think that here there
is
fetishism, primitive
name
spiritualism, superstition, the shrieks of Mullahs, the
Confucius
—and
breakable
vise.
everything
Soon our Geshe
is
bound together
as
of
with an un-
To-day he
tells
us that the head of the medical school in Lhasa spoke to
him
will
about “Azaras,” which in the
This
“Azaras.”
Geshe
Toin-Lama
May
is
to his mountains.
their
mountains and using
We
aid of humanity.
the
go
is
their
for the
Mahatmas
living
profound knowledge for the
have not previously come upon the word
not Sanskrit.
to tell us details! all
name
But
how
Soon he
that the latter has lost.
difficult
will leave.
Fear
is
it is
He
to force will
tell
a poor counselor.
gth
Again this will
heat, unseasonable for the beginning of
mean
rain.
Some
May.
Some
say
“console” us by saying that the heat
[302]
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA has really begun. E.
The Chinese seemingly
many
there are so
met such an “Azara”
mountains of Sikhim.
in the
The
was
the fact that there
house and that the “Azara” was unusually departed from the place.
conditions.
school told our Geshe that he him-
more than
difficult to ascertain
so complicated;
is
many unusual
questions and so
One must hasten departure. The head of the medical self
Everything
with their procrastination.
I.
are trying to persecute
Then
tall.
very same news
is
It
is
a small
the “Azara”
creeping through
Asia.
all
We
went out
of town.
The cuckoo was
were on the wing and the thunder.
How
E.
crickets chirped.
read notes about the foundations of Buddhism.
I.
beautiful
layer falls
The hoopoes Toward evening,
calling.
is
the unfoldment
when
the shell of the last
away; when labor and knowledge occupy
their fitting
place.
May
10th
The say
soldiers
it is
have stopped their
because the
Amban
drilling.
of Sining
is
It is
They
a holiday.
The
routed.
last
Peking
newspaper announces that Kansu and Sinkiang remain in the sphere of influence of the national army.
For Sinkiang
it
is
significant.
Suddenly everything has so developed that
it
is
necessary to
leave as quickly as possible.
Up
to the present time there has existed a saga about Gessar-
Khan: “To Gessar-Bogdo-Khan were sent seven heads, cut ofi from seven black blacksmiths. And he boiled the seven heads in seven
copper
kettles.
He
fashioned out of them chalices, and
And
inlaid these chalices with silver.
came seven wine.
chalices;
and Gessar-Khan
Thereupon he ascended
bestowed upon her the
chalices. [
so out of seven heads
filled these
to the wise
with a strong
Manzalgormo and
But she took the seven chalices
303
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA fashioned from the seven heads of the blacksmiths and scattered
them
into the heavens
and the seven
chalices
And
Dolan-Obogod (The Great Bear).
lation
formed the she
is
constel-
preserving
the dates.”
How
remarkably the symbols are fused into these unclear and
apparently meaningless words which the seven-starred constellation of
bind Gessar-Khan with
the north.
The Mongolian
“Gabala” and the special chalices of the Bhutanese temples the
very
same
and hopes.
strivings
Again
is
recall
repeated
the
prophecy from the Tripitaka that Buddha “indicated that his chalice
would become an
object of search at the time of the
new
achievements of the world, but that only pure bearers of the
Order would be able
to find it.”
“Ribhavas are rushing to Savitri-Sun after Soma,” according to the
wisdom
Khyil-Khor,
is
of the Rig-Veda.
enchased
In the center of the plate of
Mount Sumeru, and on
its
sides are the
four countries of the world, like great islands around at
equal distance from four oceans.
The Lama as the
proclaims, “Let
.
.
it
—a point
.
be firm as adamant, victorious
life
banner of the teacher, strong
as the eagle,
and continue
eternally.” •
•
•
•
•
May nth
We
are invited for luncheon.
sionary are also present.
seems
full of vigor.
Filchner and the Catholic mis-
Filchner, sunburned, in a leather jacket,
His task
is
a curious one.
He
connects the
magnetic researches between Tashkent and Central China.
measurements were made carries out the
ner
is
We
work
in
The
in Russia, but the Carnegie Institute
China
combining these two
at great expense.
And now
fields of investigation as
recalled his experiences with the Goloks.
Filch-
he told
He
us.
did not
reveal his exact route.
The
conversation with the missionary [
304
]
is
interesting.
He
speaks
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA new understanding
of the
of
Buddhism,
need of understanding Nirvana.
He
as well as the present
speaks of the desire for an
immediate coordination of Buddhism and Catholicism.
knowledge of occult miracles.
tions his
the literature.
May 12th On the
He
is
He men-
conversant with
It is significant.
table lies a petition signed
with a fingerprint.
An
impoverished Kirghiz makes the following complaint: Three years ago, near Manass, he
and
his nine-year-old
overnight in the house of a Dungan.
For
daughter stopped
their night’s lodging,
Dungan demanded the daughter of the Kirghiz. The Kirghiz refused. The Dungan beat him and drove him out, but he the
kept the It
girl
and has held her for three
years.
the usual occurrence here, to abduct
is
and
sell
children
with the idea of work and more often, for the purposes of depravity.
Why
call hypocritical
conferences about the slaves in
when in Central Asia and everywhere in China the sale of human beings is a common practice? All business organizations of the country know of this institution of slavery, yet none demands its cessation. Where are, then, the protests and demands ?
Africa,
We
Again the same people
for lunch to-morrow.
missionary and Cavalieri.
In the bazaar, the
Kobdo. sul
is
And
.
.
rumor.
a
march toward
Governor General
The
to the
Con-
Taotai, the Altaian
com-
of the local armies, left hurriedly for Sharasume.
circumstance confirms
still
come
—Fan, Filchner, the
rumor has spread about this
to
.
the last visit of the
connected with
mander tary
from the Governor General
received an invitation
This
further the rumors of possible mili-
movements.
[305]
ALTAI. HIMALAYA It is is
a clear and fresh day.
If
we
But
could only leave!
this
not possible before Saturday.
The
from the lower
lobes of the brain
According to the
treasure.
ment
of the dead
May
What
we saw
Mongolian lama.
is
meaning
called Ring-se,
It
a proof of materialism!
On
such a “mass” after the cremation
looks like the precipitant of amber.
13th
What
In the morning the Mongolian lama arrives.
we have wise
cremation
after
size of this mass, the psychic develop-
judged.
is
the border of Tibet, of one
which remains
stonelike metallic mass
What
joy!
gathered in spiritual teaching from the south, he
knows from
He
the north.
become
filled
T. L. was near Lan-chow for
with genuine
six
And now
the
in thought
friend
months, and each day he spoke
long time ago,” says the lama, “but about.
fills
Our
tears.
of the significance of the future of Maitreya.
would come
what
what they await; and
consciousness of the peoples and of this his eyes
relates exactly
like-
we
did
“We knew it not know how
a it
But not to
the time has come.
Mongol and Kalmuck can we tell it but only to those who can comprehend.” The lama speaks about different proofs and no one would have suspected such knowledge in this modest man. He speaks about the spiritual meaning of Altai. every
After these sincere and serious conversations, a hypocritical
luncheon with the Governor-General. corridors of the toasts.
yamen.
Again the
Again we
Again questions
fins of shark,
as to
bamboo and
assures us that the local Sarts are better than earth.
Several years ago he declared the
and even willed
now
that he be buried in a
the “current”
changed.
And
is
pass
endless
our health, again fungi. all
This host
peoples of the
same about the Dungans
Dungan
toward the Sarts and
cemetery.
his will
is
But
already
the Sarts are proclaimed to be the best nation.
[306]
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA E.
I.
“What a horrible old man.” In the manner of procession we go back through the corridors, little yards,
whispers,
a funeral
and the Governor-General pays us “the highest honors” by accom-
Not
panying us to the carriage. of the affairs at
over and
word about
a
Khotan and Karashahr,
the prohibitions against the
all
as
if
the investigation
everything were
work swallowed during
the luncheon.
One can it
way, and afterward plaster
insult, in every possible
over with the fins of shark.
in order that
we may
To-day they
will seal our trunks
not be disturbed on the border.
For three
hours the absurd, dragging procedure of opening the trunks and the useless inspection of our things, continued. this
And when
will
nonsense cease?
Toward evening, a provocation now familiar to us occurs. A When he was repulsive Dungan attacked and beat Ramsana. caught he claimed that he mistook Ramsana for a Chinese and that
A
was why he beat him.
strange explanation!
that this provocation occurs just
on the day of the luncheon
gerous places on the road to Topolev mys.
The escort They tell
Of is
course, here the
how
There
at
are robberies
Governor gives us no
necessary only where
us
queer
During the evening they warn us of two dan-
the Governor’s.
of Kirghiz.
It is
it is
escort!
safe!
the Dervishes sometimes kill the “unbelievers.”
In the crowd, or while dancing, the Dervish scratches the giaour,
with a poisoned
nail
and death sometimes follows the same day.
Medievalism! c
May
•
•
us a passport to Peking as long as
Such stupidity all objects!
my own
height.
— to write in a passport the number and description How many
Chinese of Sinkiang, a
•
14th
They gave of
•
changes
why do you
may
take place on the road!
reveal yourselves to us in such
way? [307]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA appears that our drivers are not Chinese subjects at
It
Now
but from Bokhara.
many
there are
such chameleons.
all,
An
utter absurdity with the passports!
The
volcanic traces
the
in
district
Vernyi and Tashkent are interesting. ing like a gigantic dynamo;
To-day ties
with the packing!
really leave
seems to be break-
soil
continues for months at a time.
it
Possessions
Oh, how many
—enemies
May 15th And after
Will
we
•
all
we
•
•
did not leave to-day!
The
driver refused to
All pressure and persuasions were applied, but the old
load.
man remained
as if
wooden.
The
chief reason
the
We
whole day
heard
tales
is
is
that Saturday
How
considered by Moslems an unfavorable day.
And
man!
of
difficul-
to-morrow? •
is
The
the farewell dinner at G.’s.
is
Chuguchak, Kuldja,
of
ridiculous!
lost.
about Karakirghiz
—how
Kirghiz boiled 3,000 Russian Cossacks in
in
the sixties, the
kettles.
The same
in-
formation that the Kirghiz recently boiled and burned people in ovens
is
reported.
of robberies.
rob travelers.
We
are
accompanied by a whole
The Kirghiz robbed thirty arbas. The Kirghiz The Kirghiz are holding a cliff, seven days’ travel
The Kirghiz have bombs.
away.
series of tales
It is like
a Karakirghiz-Thou-
sand-and-One-Nights. •
May
•
•
•
•
1 6th
We
left just
the same.
After
all sorts
of arguments with the
somehow we loaded. Of course the Chinese remained true to type. The last night Sung cried and told the lama that the police and the yamen prohibited him from going with us as far as the border. Who knows what is the meaning of this new intrusion in our life? Or Sung perhaps has given too good a report about us. Sung is completely upset.
drivers,
[308]
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA Urumchi
All the good people of
They
are bidding us farewell.
are indeed cordial people.
snow ridges Behind them remained
At
the
blue.
left,
peared Bogdo-ula in
peaks
—and
the
was joyous and
it
Kalmuck
Amid
beauty.
all its
Shan glowed purple and
of T’ian
the
we were
Just as usual
of the
We
.
.
Farther.
.
camped
beyond the
they
.
.
is
senselessly
We
impossible
—
it
dangerous
is
An
old Sart
walks with dignity through the yard.
when even
begun
was
to-day
away.
In spite
left
It is
to abate.
To
stay
night, and
at
at the
woman
Con-
in white
with
Little girls
black braids scurry out of the hut. yet
so
our arms.
inspected
Tumbal, was
stop in a courtyard.
and the heat has not
was
.
besides this, our faithful guard, sulate.
It
at once.
in Sanji, a village thirty-nine versts
village
was
the air
stopped at the custom house.
passport,
six-foot
Farther.
I.
And
full of light.
luminous that the Chinese dusk paled
E.
the snows shone three
with the scent of wild mint and wormwood.
filled
little
In back, ap-
ultus.
many
already six o’clock
How
so difficult for her.
will
it
be with
And what
right
did the Khotan scoundrel have to arrest us and detain us longer
We
might have passed here more than
was no
heat.
lence with
and
And
month ago when
there
instead of investigating the wretched inso-
which they
false toasts.
a
?
treated us, they gave us hypocritical dinners
Where
is
the justice of Sinkiang?
come again to Turkestan! While
In the evening, some strange types
Decadence! inspect our
things.
Understand, Chinese of
main
nothing but suspected prisoners in your country, so long
as
travelers re-
you, yourselves, will remain at the level of prison-wardens. is
It
time for you not to affirm that the westward flowing river
flows to the east, as the “learned” commissar of Foreign Affairs insists
on doing. They
There are enough of
say,
“China was formerly
of “former” peoples,
all sorts
time for living peoples.
Some [
a great nation.”
now
is
the
are so used to the local license,
309
]
ALTAI -HIMALAYA “Even
that they phlegmatically say,
dred years, they will
make no
you sue them for a hun-
if
investigation,
and the decision
depend on the number of thousands of
their court will
So those
paid to the judges.”
who
of
dollars
have lived a long time in the
large cities of Sinkiang declare.
May
iyth
By is
five o’clock in the
going to be hot.
criminal
A
one
P
the
left,
Truly
Or one
?
morning
too clever ?
?
A
nine
mountains.
dangerous one ?
shall
we
see
Hutubi.
better.
On
We
o’clock,
we have
shall stop in the
covered
Dungan no
yesterday was bad and to-day
account of the heat
Manass
Dear mountain
sparkling.
is
By twelve
The water
in order to reach
we
decided to leave by night
noon.
at
the willow near the road, the nightingales are singing.
Sadig, the driver, volunteers to cover five
ning and thus
to
he will go, not according
them
The
The
p’o-t’ai this eve-
The loaded
old driver informs
to conditions, but as
to translate this to
wills.
more
shorten to-morrow’s journey.
troykas remain behind again.
God
disfavored
you again?
or thirty-six miles.
village,
ask
A
After the purple borders there are
sandy and dusty.
p’o-t’ai,
On
A
tied to a pole.
is
during the whole day, stretched the chain of T’ian Shan.
When
is
man
The day
warm.
already
Bogdo-ula drowned in the mist, but to
ringing blue crests and the snow
It
is
In the bazaar a
slandered one
celestial
snows!
it
him: that he
God
me
that
desires.
I
will return also as
passage between Olunbulak and Kuldinen
considered dangerous on account of robbers.
is
Everybody advises
us that the carriages should go together and that the arms be
held loaded.
The shooting
usually starts
from both
sides of the
canyon.
Toward evening o’clock there
is
no
the heat becomes relief
still
whatsoever.
[3io]
more
intense.
By seven
Because of our arrest and
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA we have
detention,
would have been long Dance
who
Sinkiang,
Khotan
viction that this country
wish
so sincerely
would
possible that
is it
official?
to leave the boundaries of
We
and by now we
none of you, Chinese of
consider yourselves civilized, will be indignant at
the license of the
would
a half
beyond the boundaries of the Chinese
since
And
of Death.
two months and
lost
like
it
possible that
I
will have
Chinese Turkestan, with the firm connot
is
to say a
much
so
Is
We
for cultural intercourse?
fit
word
of full
who
for China!
we
Instead of that
her!
to justify
proceed with the feeling of prisoners
sympathy
have escaped from the
nest of a robber-band.
hot and stuffy.
It is
May
18th
We
arise at 2:30 at night.
tempered driver and
becomes cloudy.
A
sures.
is
all
measures
we
at half-past four
The
cool rain
By
we
urge on the
The morning
leave.
clouds were changed into opalescent starting.
The
ill-
fis-
heat abates only after one
The mountains of T’ian Shan reflect many colors. The glow purple. The fresh grass is richly green and fragrant the rain. Our mood was somewhat disturbed by another
o’clock. irises
after
What
custom house and a third inspection of our passports.
Why
to
tains,
one
cross
moun-
without any inspections whatsoever!
These
inspections are for the arbas
if
and
for inexperienced travelers but
an experienced horseman can always avoid these
The
ruins of old
nants of a temple. is
one
tinsel barriers.
Manass remind us of the massacre during the
uprising of the Dungans.
Manass
?
turning toward the
go by the highways,
may
for
Empty casements
p’o-t’ai farther.
sixteen-and-a-half p’o-t’ai to-day.
The same Dungans.
walls.
Rem-
windows and
doors.
we
make
There are heaps of clay
And
altogether
The same
Sometimes one
no Torguts or Khoshuts, but
of
Olets,
[3ii
]
sees a
who
shall
bazaars as at Manass.
Kalmuck.
occupy the
Here
are
Iliisk district
ALTAI-HIMALAYA There
and Kuldja.
is
no
Along
difference in their appearance.
the entire road are stretched caravans of camels, carrying a hun-
The
dred thousand puds of wool, bought for export. Sadik,
impressively.
the
driver,
with special emphasis:
says
“Wool toward Chuguchak!” The dream lish
communication
We
being
is
bells ring
of the district to estab-
fulfilled.
Here
are stopping at the house of the Elder of the village.
somewhat cleaner than in the Kashgar and Karashahr districts. They say that here also they will inspect
the courtyards are
the passport.
We
If
only they do not tear up this ancient curiosity!
should like to bring
During the day
it
it
back in safety and reproduce
seemed
to us as
it.
though we were going, a
And
quarter century back, along the plain of Central Russia.
now we
sit
in a dirty
twenty years ago,
thus,
little
we
white room.
sat in little huts in
on the Neman, or under the walls
Or
later, in
E.
remembers
I.
Meretchi or Veluni
of the monastery of Susdal.
and San Gemignano.
the cells of Siena
that
we have seen, we have seen! The day ended with the third inspection
We
have
seen,
deciphering of our passports.
An
of the arms
and the
opium smoker came
illiterate
He read, syllable by syllable, He asked us to take out the
from the Amban.
our three-arshin*
long passport.
guns from
cases,
and timidly touched
A
a revolver.
their
long time he paced
mumbled something and then he left responsibility of the inn-keeper. Can one include
about the same place and us under the
such
officials
humanity?
in the evolution of
these stupidly
Simply dregs.
annoying dregs are capable of obscuring the shin-
ing mountains; are capable of transforming every peaceful
Away
into the feeling of a prison. •
May igth What a good
We
But
sign!
So
•
•
we
with ignorance!
•
•
are told.
hear some unintelligible music, a
[312]
mood
What
is
the matter?
shrill clarinet like a
bag-
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA pipe,
cymbals and a drum.
What
evening.
is
This
the matter?
continues the whole
shrill noise
Not without
has died, and they are getting ready to bury him. cause in Manass, in a whole
row
of
tude of vari-colored, gayly painted
good sign
for travelers,
whether
was according
it
way on our it
shops, there
little
They
coffins.
man
a
if
man
appears that nearby a
It
say
nearby.
dies
It
is
a multi-
a very
it is
is
uncertain
to the sign or not, but at a point half-
We
down.
road, a wheel broke
shall
have to repair
at the nearest village.
To-day the road
a short
is
one
—only
as early as half-past one.
It is
half p’o-t’ai more, but the
whole matter
We
driver. It is
sit
a vivid day.
On
desert
is
rests
with the impossible
it
covered with sappy verdure and purple
We
eastward to pray.
The Lama
catch the
new
probably invokes the
approach of which
on the mountains
are
rhythm of era,
mostly nomadic
— in
though we cannot
see
them.
It is
so green
If
and
the steppe stand pillars of
smoke from
of praise.
Under
the line of
snow
The
monasteries are
also
it
is
temples, see
al-
an absurd
forbidden to see the
ridiculous
and
stupid.
starlings
and
jays are calling in the
smoke
hastily counts the years.
—they are burning reeds.
the “Polovetsky
of the horizons of the steppes. ings of the year 1912,
The grazing
hymn
you want, you can
The cuckoo
foliage of Karagach.
clouds of
his
But there are
yurtas.
Buddhist monasteries. is
iris.
hidden several large Kalmuck monasteries.
temple of the devil in Urumchi, but
grass
The
the time of Maitreya, the
Buddhists know.
all
looks as though
goes aside and turns
In each one are a few hundred lamas.
The
carriage.
receding ridges are enticing.
herds are clearly silhouetted.
He
could do two-and-a-
the far-off mountains,
The
snow has been added.
arrived
we
clear that
Ulan Usun awaiting the
in
We
forty miles.
Camp”
We recall
These
are characteristic
the dreams
— the paint-
“The Serpent Awoke” and “The Sword [313]
In
of
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Valor,”
when
the fiery angel brought the sword of valor to the
guards.
We
are told that
Whence
spring. It is
on Altai some
in
this general reverence for Altai?
They warn
hot.
bloom
special red lilies
us that here are
many
The Gov-
thefts.
ernor-General did not send the promised order about the passage.
At
It is better so!
we do
least
not have to have the faintest
feel-
ing that the Chinese did anything for us except to offer affronts,
From Ulan Usun
violence and obstacles. the Torgut
summering
place.
is
four days’ ride to
equally distant from Kucha,
It is
Urumchi, and from Ulan Usun. •
May 20th Up at four.
How
A
is
purplish mist
•
The mountains become
beautiful!
The
rising.
grass
is
A
made
nine
wonderful road.
The
the scent of the silver jilda.
pink.
We
becomes luxuriant.
We
at half-past five, before the heat. six miles) until Yan-zi-hai.
•
•
•
left
p’o-t’ai (thirty-
Fresh and sweet
we have
birds are singing;
many of them for a long time. We cross the plain strewn with the mounds of graves — traces of skirmishes and the Dungan uprising. Like a forbidding wall stand the silvery blue not heard so
We
mountains. just
come
on time. The sun
Jubilant,
we
speedily at half-past nine to Yan-zi-hai, is
already scorching; everything
enter a small clay hut.
o’clock at night,
and then by moonlight,
The
further to Shiho.
are broader, or there are
We
sit
again in a
are busy under the It
feels
as
Chuguchak activity
was
if
be here until twelve
already
is
felt,
in
Either the streets of the villages
more plowed little
clay hut.
beams they have
the
searing.
in the coolness, proceed
nearness of Russia
something almost intangible.
cleaner!
We shall
is
;
fields.
In the
built their nest.
ground were shaken.
are extinct craters.
In the
Not long ago
so intense that they expected
[3H]
The inns are room swallows
the
district
of
underground
an eruption.
— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA May
2 1 st
We
In the darkness, in the begin-
arose at one o’clock at night.
ning of a buran, we
We
themselves in clouds of dust.
At one
coarse pebbles.
Shiho,
making
thundered through a plain of
touch
From Urumchi,
A
crowd
of
to
Dungans
They walked around, examined our
us.
Veritable
ten thousand
We
animals.
little
car-
recalled
there
was an Amban.
Dungans were
sent against him,
years ago, in Sharasiime,
fifteen
we came
o’clock in the afternoon
to feed the horses.
and Chinese gathered.
how,
hid
sixteen p’o-t’ai.
Halfway we -stopped riage, tried to
The mountains
left at half-past three.
but from Zaisan a battalion succeeded in approaching and the
Urumchi soldiers immediately dispersed. Now the Amban, an Olet prince, lives a day’s journey from
ten thousand
son of this
He
Shiho.
completed
his education
In the direction
abroad.
Kalmuck monastery. Shiho is the crossroad between Urumchi (six days), Chuguchak (six days), Kuldja of Shiho
is
also a big
(nine days) and Sharasiime (twelve days).
On
we met
our way
three arbas with precious loads
—marral
horns.
Probably they are coming from Russian or Mongolian
Altai.
They
to
China
are going through
Urumchi toward Ku-ch’eng
to be used for valuable medicines.
not admitted to the courtyard of a former Russian quality of the road
Toksun. to
From
make an
is
much
better here than in
the great expanse of pebbles,
excellent road.
roads of communication, the
we were citizen. The
In Shiho
it
Kashgar-Aksu-
would be
But for the Chinese, the fewer the
more
quiet.
The
less
enlightenment
more convenient it is for the “rulers.” The “ruling power” came for the passports. And
there
is,
the
very poor power indeed, so ragged, so ill-smelling!
what
easy
torture
it
tried to read, syllable
by
hieroglyphics of the six-foot passports.
syllable, the
We
it
was a
And
with
innumerable
gave the passports
to the official, not without fear; even without this, the corners
[3i5]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA of this “valuable”
document
worn from
are already
the endless
inspections.
E.
I.
says, “If the
much
Chinese would have received us well,
much! No news from America. Where and whence are we going to receive it? Up to May 16th we have received no answer to
would have been changed
thereby.”
Verily,
The
our telegram sent April 12th.
condition of the telegraph
post, of the wires, of the insulators, spell,
has to
tell
“Resign
all
H. they should not send telegrams by
hope.”
One Here,
Bently.
even without the code, the words are distorted beyond recognition.
May 22nd The
up
sands,
to Tcha-pe-dzi
itself,
an unbearable heat, and Sadik says that have never seen so
much
on the road before the very
we
We
are squalid.
Beyond, the
Tcha-pe-dzi
and
would
hares.
carriage.
They
arrived at half-past two.
travel at night.
it
is
kill
the horses.
Gold pheasants and
wild game.
partridges; geese, ducks, gulls
p’o-t’ai .
Otherwise there would be
Light clouds have hidden the sun.
We
cover sixteen
The
We
suggest
pheasants perch five o’clock;
left at it
will be better to
an unattractive place.
The houses
stop just behind the village, near the river.
crest of T’ian
Shan disappeared and
far ahead,
toward
the north, appeared the light line of the Tarbagatai mountains.
In the steppe are crumbling the Chinese tombs like
Again the
ill-smelling ragamuffin
passports somewhere.
the photographs.
We is
Amusingly he compares our
from
faces
with
Endless police-quarters!
who is Tsagan-Khutukhta. It appears He is now in Labrang. How instructive
compare the
\urgans.
comes and takes away our
learned
an Olet.
that
little
face of Maitreya
the North.
that it
is
he to
from behind the Himalayas with
Only thus
sentation of personalities, events
is
and
[316]
constructed a true reprefaiths.
Each country, not
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA deviating from the truth, adds
The
vations. Jilda
is
reports about
The
blooming.
its
own
details
and
own
its
obser-
Tsagan-Khutukhta coincide. early honeysuckle
is
becoming pink.
Toward evening all is fragrant with the new spring. There will again be a drama with the drivers. We will have to persuade them to move at night. We decided not to sleep, but to leave at eleven at night. •
•
•
•
•
May 2 yd The
pulse of the evening
Chinese came with ten terious
is
Some wholly
one of unrest.
They
soldiers.
are fulfilling
They
mission of the Governor-General.
Peking and Moscow.
A
net
Advice has come: to leave
are
going to
once; to muffle the bells on the
harnesses and to extinguish the lights. the advice
some mys-
being woven.
is
at
strange
All
is
unrest.
We
follow
and we leave under rain and wind with arms loaded.
We
march through deep sands, difficult for the horses. Eighteen p’o-t’ai to Ulan Bulak. It took twelve hours with two hours for feeding the horses. food.
Seven
dark-pebbled clear.
of
p’o-t’ai
Ulan Bulak
is
from the langar, the sands change
hills of
the Djair mountains.
Blinding, threatening clouds whirl.
Chuguchak
it
begins to thunder.
near a wretched Chinese temple.
We
They
no
is
into the
Everything becomes
And
in the direction
stop
on
a
little
hill
In front of us, for the last
time, stretches the ridge of the Heavenly mist.
There
a poor langar.
Mountains merging in
are so heavenly in tone, so rich with their white
crests.
So
little
is
known
succeed in threading
of all
whole distance quivers
Kalmuck
alus.
When
and who
the labyrinths of buried treasures in
the
?
rainbow of evaporation.
sapphire desert and ethereal mountains merge with the sky. hills
are
adorned in gold.
Verily
Accept the chalice.
[3i7]
will
The The The
thou art beautiful, Asia!
ALTAI-HIMALAYA A
couple of Dungans and Kalmucks are traveling with us.
And the tone and
which the Kalmuck speaks
in
Naively he
intimately.
tells
how
us
to us rings confidently
he wanted to hunt in
the mountains but the local prince forbade him.
road ran there
in the mountains.
is
The
do not
carriages
go without
shall
One can imagine how much game
gray gazelles.
six
sleep. •
«
•
•
2 4th
Only Ladakis and some for distant trips.
of the
All others
Mongolian Khoshuns
weaken and
are
lose their vitality
fit
and
prey to melancholy.
fall
We
which
ice
and snow.
to
Kuldinen
tell.
in
We
It
is
in the
canyons of Djair
hills
of Djair confront
The
icy gale, rain, hail,
driver succeeded in
are completely exhausted
Here they have
smarts the eyes.
arrive at half-past
is
away
any robbers.
for
oil
on
and
all
We
come
over us.
the
They
manure, which
spill tea.
Kuldinen in the evening.
Now
After us,
They walk it
two
a miserable station
also built a bonfire out of
They pour
p’o-t’ai
from dragging ourselves
Ottu
with loaded guns.
and during the night,
making seventeen
We
twenty-two hours.
Their arrogance begins.
of us are snowless,
one of those unbearable days
middle of the road, sunken in mud.
Chinese.
to get
An
Our
after the arbas,
spit.
is
and murders occur.
us very severely.
at night.
To-day
the caravaneers
all
that robberies
in the
Ahead
bid farewell to T’ian Shan.
small cupolas of Djair. of
For the third night we
arrive again.
•
May
Across the
We
are glad
have not seen
they say that the chief spot for robberies
is
not on to-day’s road but to-morrow’s, between Kuldinen and
snow we reach Kuldinen. We crowd ourselves into an ill-smelling little hut, and we sleep four hours without waking. And then, again, we load, and we again quarrel Yadmantu.
In the
with the wretched driver.
[3i8]
KARA SHAHR— DZUNGARIA May
25th
The
entire
day
is
a beautiful one.
canyons of the red mountains that
somewhere near
we may
be attacked.
among our men.
most narrow
Seemingly,
as
crevice, the axle of the
moment for robbers, the men are busy with
in
second arba breaks, and It is a
most advan-
but they do not appear.
hours
the carriage.
On
For two
the road through
three carriages overturn.
After passing red and copper mountains
which
steppe
learn
in the
spite,
tageous
hills,
We
many hundreds One senses a ten-
though
the other four carriages remain interlocked.
the
narrow
here, during the civil war,
were slaughtered by the Kirghiz.
of Russians sion
true that in the
It is
the colors
is
Kuldinen)
is
surrounded by blue
like a fairy is
a
crests;
Map’an
rainbow.
we
descend to a green
again the purity of
(thirteen p’o-t’ai
joyous resting place on the steppe.
outskirts of the village stand yurtas.
Herds
from
On
the
huddled together.
are
Kirghiz, in malachais, are galloping about like warriors of the
The Kalmucks have honest
fifteenth century.
faces.
not yet had time to find a camp-site in Map’an before a
We
have
Kalmuck
comes with information of extreme importance: “In the second
month (which means March) spread the rumor through the and monasteries Emperor.
He
that the
Urumchi Governor-General uhis, the camps of the nomads the
Tashi-Lama had been
elected Chinese
has not yet ascended the throne but he has already
accepted the tamgha (the seal).”
Only those who have been
in Asia will appreciate the significance of this invention.
of this invention the newspapers
Yet,
do not write and Reuter’s does
not telegraph; but just these invisible knots are creating the future reality.
A the
amount of news about the Tashi-Lama will float Kalmuck and Mongolian spaces. For many years! vast
All the riches of this country,
await
new
ways, a
new
culture
all its
and
[319]
beauty,
all its
across
significance,
self-consciousness.
Appre-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA date the nature of
May
this
rumor about
new
the
Chinese Emperor!
2 6th
To-day our road through
Above
is
Everywhere
verdant steppe.
a
We
about ninety miles.
long;
hasten
and herds.
are yurtas
the distant Tarbagatai mountains are the signs of bad
weather again approaching and the wind becomes
We
the right are the four hills of Altai.
To
cool.
rush through the
Kurte where the road branches into the larger road
village
toward Chuguchak, and the small, clay road toward Durbuljin. In Durbuljin are the same clay huts and a
The predominance
of nationalities.
greater mixture
still
of Sarts or
Dungans has
disappeared.
We them
many annoyances with
have
the zone between Posts
occur there.
Kozeun
in
We
one
shall strive to
stretch.
If
remain
at the
make
Post, or in
all
seventy-five miles to
driver)
is
nervous and advises us not
Chinese Post.
Taotai.
lies
Beside the corpse
the unburied
body of the
a white rooster,
is
they have carried with the coffin from Chuguchak.” are the affairs of the dead one;
been received to
institute a
from Peking
posthumous
Taotai for his crimes, and until the
are veritable “dead souls”! rooster
also crowing.
is
If
sible to believe that are
China asked
is
trial
trial
is
a
known,
me
And
command
ended not
comic
such Dances of Death.
America.
“And why do [320]
I
has
against the former
relief,
one has not been in China,
especially in
in Chicago,
for the
which
Grievous
to
bury
These
not to send the body back to his native land.
him and
We
one march.
only the Chinese customs will not de-
Another anecdote: “In Urumchi
Chuguchak
induce
Thefts and robberies
miles).
(thirty
Even Sadik (the
tain us!
in
remain overnight in the Chinese
are advised not to
to
boundary
to reach the Post across the
we must
the drivers;
the white
it is
How
impos-
little
of
remember Dr. Laufer
they fuss over the Chinese,
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA when they do not know them ?” At that time we also knew only the “Museum” China, but not the reality of Sinkiang. The albums of sketches are accumulating.
May
27th
The day with
all its
At our
a silky steppe.
straight
northward
is
are the
left,
Blue mountains;
a beautiful one.
are the foothills
There are herds
center of Asia. of horses;
colors
snows of Tarbagatai, and
—Altai,
of Altai itself
Great droves
in the steppe.
and blackish gray and milky white
wind and an unprecedented translucence
the
Sun and
yurtas.
of tones.
It
is
even
more resonant than Ladak. From morning on we have been tormented by the wretched driver.
Nothing
We have not
is
in order
and the carriages
encountered a worse fellow.
are falling apart.
After the performance
The Amban had
of the driver, a sequence of Chinese interludes.
appointed a soldier to accompany us to the border of Kozeun.
The
soldier arrived, turned
he was going to drink After
we had
tea,
around
the gate, and said that
at
and we did not
passed five
p’o-t’ai,
comedy began; but one could have
up
him
see
to the
cried
again.
border-line, the
from
it.
The
seven-
foot-long passport and the seals of the Governor-General helped
very
little.
The
customs
half-literate
the seals of the Governor-General. all
our things.
And
finally
he
official
wanted
Then he wanted
tried to take
away
to break to
count
entirely the
Chinese passport which was given to us to go on to Peking
which was attached the visa. With the greatest difficulty we induced him to abandon this scheme; nevertheless, the torture
and
to
and inventions of the customs by
six o’clock
could
we make
idiot
a
took about four hours.
move
the twenty-five miles to the next Post. a mile before the
us
was the
wheel on the
to pass, or rather crawl,
We
had not completed
driver’s carriage broke.
possibility of a night in the
[321]
Only
Before
mountains, in the heart
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
of the most dangerous locality.
And
Post.
sit
back so
tent bring
to return to the
again in our tents.
many
moon looks unflinchingly we passed a few nomadic
recollections.
into
the
Perhaps
The
before a long intermission.
last time,
and
we
here
had
flap
it
Chinese for the
is
beloved mountains
And
the full golden
of the
To-day
tent.
monasteries where Maitreya
is
rev-
Avoiding complications with the Chinese, we did not turn from our way toward the yurtas of the monastery. It was erenced.
a pity,
a pity!
it is
May
•
•
•
•
•
2 8th
How
solemn
is
The end and
this night.
the beginning!
Fare-
As a farewell she revealed herself not only with her blue snow mountains, not only with the chrysoprase well, Dzungaria!
of the
hills,
but also with abundant grass and flowers not seen
for a long time: wild peonies, crimson red, yellow
heads of a
orange color,
fiery
green
hills.
We
And
irises, briar-roses.
We
pervaded with the breath of spring.
lilies,
golden-
the air
is
descended and ascended
righted the fallen carriages.
Near us rode the Kirghiz escort. The same Scythians, the same caps, leather trousers and half-kaftans, as on the vase of
The Kirghiz pursued
Kuleb.
One
of the Kirghiz picked a big
There
is
stones.
one more crossing. This
is
bunch
And on
which crossed the road. of red peonies for E.
the peak
is
a
I.
heap of small
the end of China.
Welcome, spring little
the wolves
soil,
new
in thy
Continuous grass and
attire!
goldenheads, and the white walls of the border Post of
Kuzeun.
Soldiers approach
erally anxious to
do
as
is
and question
best for us.
us.
Where
They is
are gen-
the crudeness
and ignorance which one might expect in this isolated little post unmarked on the map. A long and attentive inspection of the things follows.
Everything
is
They apologize for Here is the head us.
examined.
taking our time and for the bother to
[322]
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA and here
of the Post,
We
remain overnight
May
the family of his assistant, an old officer.
is
at the Post.
2 gth
we
This morning
rode
as far as the village
The mountains
miles) on a wonderfully smooth road.
They
Curious
Kirghiz yurtas.
are getting lower.
Pokrovsky (seventy
riders.
The
A
green
sleek, raven-black horse of the soldier trots vigorously.
The
frontier cap.
A
ruler of Russia.
first
village
first
low
meager gardens are already the
summer
Rurikowsky
The white
clay hut. seen.
Vegetables do not thrive
severe.
called
is
The
climate
—the frost
heat has already begun.
If
kills
On
a straight slope the
One must
pieces.
to get another
The
mill.
Here is
is
We
wagon. is
Pokrovskoye.
Here
out.
assistant of the
here
very
is
But
them.
now
we could reach make it. And so it
wheel of the wagon breaks to
is
stand for a long time near a private
unfriendly and does not give his wagon.
More white
houses.
The commandant
the head of the guard, and here
commandant.
more
is
the
Striving to surpass one another
They
they establish us in their modest apartment. questions, ever
and
walls
send to the commandant’s post to Pokrovskoye
proprietor
coming
after the
only
Topolev mys; probably our driver will not proves.
recede.
insistently.
They
ask
more
expect enlightening an-
They want to compare their information with ours. Ramsana, not knowing the language, remarks: “They have good souls.” We ask him how he came to this conclusion: “It is seen
swers.
in their eyes.” It
appears that our boat on the Irtysh leaves to-night, and the
next one only after three days. this difficulty.
with them
But
at least
and we converse
The
driver
at the Post they rejoice
one day.
They come
until midnight.
[323]
is
responsible for
and ask us
to
to us in the
remain evening
ALTAI-HIMALAYA May J.
gist
accompanied us on horseback
We
a heartfelt farewell. to Blue Zaisan.
and vivid red
Mountains and
The
We
Topolev mys
Gray
Flat \urgans.
hills.
grass
Not without Kirghiz “Kara-kirghiz” black ones. The
call
soldier,
a
forty-five miles to
bade him
Auls of Kirghiz yurtas.
slopes.
reason do they escort,
made
We
to the steppe.
many
relates
instances of
Kirghiz, Kurbanoff, keeps a band of
Kirghiz robberies.
armed
fifty
riders.
rush through a gorge where twenty-two Kirghiz recently
attacked and tried to strangle seven frontier
But the
latter at once, at the
slaughtered sixteen people.
with
lassos.
point of the saber, captured and
Farther, near a
He had
attacked one soldier.
officials
a
hill,
four Kirghiz
hard time getting away.
Lately,
Kirghiz have driven 150 horses away from the ranch of Feodoroff. In
Chuguchak even now
Post, struck
down by
lies
wounded chief of the Kirghiz thieves. The peasants
the seriously
the bullets of
complain about the perpetual robberies. Four cows of our hostess
were driven away.
It is
so difficult to subdue these robbers
the soldiers of the frontier are straining
all
Our driver we had nine
During
lost his senses
stops
and breakdowns.
turned, the wheels upside
and driver were not Behind herself
down.
killed.
forty-five miles
Finally, one carriage over-
It is
remarkable that the horses
Blue Zaisan glows on the horizon. Is it
not Beluha
? is
Topolev mys, a squatting village with white
reliable boat left yesterday
the Altai.
We
their forces.
the white crest of the Altai Chain.
it is
Here
A
completely.
and
We
drink
shall stop
tea.
We
and we
will probably
mud
huts.
have to go by
with old Feodorova.
eat pot-cheese
with sour cream.
On
the
wall hangs an image of Saint Nicolas and the supplement of the magazine, “Neva”: “Lomonosoff to Catherine the Great!’ soldiers.
They speak
Shows an
The nephews
of F. are
Electric
Machine
coming
—former
intelligently about China, Korea,
[324]
and about
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA They want to get some perch and carp for us from Zaisan. On the windows are red and purple primroses, and the omnipresent geranium. Our Gegen was taken for a
Chang Tso
Lin.
How many
Chinese general. passage
]une
legends will
about our
travel
?
ist
Old Feodorova everything.
They
complains about the Kirghiz.
also
Every night one has
to
guard the herds.
steal
But, in
The driver, Sadik says: “They all They live as they lived before.” The lie in Urumchi about life. soldiers say of the Kirghiz: “When you come to him he shouts general,
well ordered.
life is
—
out, ‘Friend, friend.’
ing
how
to take
But he himself
away your gun and
the whole night one has to keep the
Instead of the Altai is
not destined that
came
we
at the
same time
to shoot
gun
is
you with
go on
a
it.”
So
in hand.
the worst boat, the Lob\ov.
shall
schem-
good boat
— the
Well,
it
driver pre-
The lake lies like a pearl net. To-day the sanctuary is seen, the Kalmuck Mountain Sabur, or rather Saw-ur. The Lob\ov proved to be not as bad as reputed. We arranged for the lama and Ramsana on the top deck. We all found vented
it.
accommodations.
Again
a miracle; while
we
are
still
on the gangplank, the
On the And all of
stevedores gather around us and beg us to “tell” them.
top deck
them
we
are surrounded by a circle of
are burning equally with one desire:
all
ages.
To \now.
Each one
has his angle of approach; each one his information, but
have one fervent desire criminate in what
wants to
know know
wants
to
about
Hindu
who
is
—to
told!
all
know more. And how they disWhat remarks they make! One
the economic situation of the countries; another
about politics;
still
another searches information
Yogis, saying, “That’s where truth
so desire to
\now
will receive
[325]
what they
People
is.”
desire.
A
boy
is
He
coming.
wants
to
with
travel
Four
us.
are
crowded
George’s small cabin, and they speak in a friendly manner.
no longer hanging the atmosphere of
the pier
is
people’s
work
is
in
Over
The
profanity.
thriving. •
•
•
•
•
June 2nd
“How
should love to study for thirty years without stopping,
I
but the job interferes,” says a
burn with a genuine
eyes
For the
Did
my
Not
that has given
me
friend
is
knowledge.
It is
my
the right to record so
On my
the lancing of these ulcers
Out
painting which
Dance
Death
friendship to real China
many
A
horrors.
lies
an unprejudiced
assails
hypo-
eye.
In
the assurance of the success of
of the past, out of the ancient civilization of
China, one can construct a bridge only to the future sciousness,
of
close his eyes at this horror of reality but a
must point out whatever
future China.
his
an inscription: “The Friend of China.”
in the least.
enemy would
And
the boat.
friendship lessen after seeing the whole
of Sinkiang?
critical
thirst for
turn toward China.
I
Peking there
in
is
time,
last
workman on
new
with understanding of the true evolution.
con-
But the
present will sink into the darkness as a stained page of history.
The governors and ambans masks
horrible as the I
in the curio-museum, as
amputation of the hands and
sincerely
terror
of hypocrisy
mountains;
While the
flat
it
wish success
I
I
What
am
degradation
who
to all
silk
understand the
looking into the eyes of those
thirst for
knowledge!
unwavering courage
it
gives an
is
yet night,
banks of the
cast off all
and ignorance.
Quite impartially, try to ascend.
god of water.
feet of the
which has accumulated under the
dirt
of the outer garment.
needed for humanity
little
hope that China may soon
and wash away the
become
of contemporary China will
we
still
leave
narrow
to
This
new
thirst
who
moves
constructions.
Lake Zaisan and go between Irtysh.
[326]
The water
is
shallow
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA now, and the boat more than once touches the sand bank. the
prow
You
they are measuring the depth.
Many
there are herds.
hear the same
Villages of a Kirghiz type.
exclamations as on the upper Volga.
Here and
On
geese and
sorts of other
all
wild waterfowl.
Green
Toward
hills
We
appear.
we
six o’clock
already predominate.
over the mountains.
mountains by evening.
shall reach the
Little village houses
reach the village Bati.
And there are the mountains, and tempests An astounding effect of the light steppe
under the blue mountains and cloudy billows.
we have
cloud
This wealth of
not seen for a long time.
In the evening, in the dining room, a boy comes in:
won’t
I
a great deal.
He
Kirghiz would not
steal.
talks
He
be scolded for coming in ?”
about the
tells
— mountain road discovered by him “like very crest.”
Two
.
.
.
He
puds’ weight
a bear: “I
was
goes to his mother.
defends the Kirghiz.
He
a
afraid of
He
insists
the
highway through the
“We
caught pike.
He remembers
a crocodile.”
He
unknown Kirghiz
speaks about catching fish:
—like
“And
him but perhaps he was
still
meeting
more
afraid
of me.”
The
late
evening until midnight
occupied in conversation
is
with a village school teacher, about Yoga, about about reincarnation.
and the people
They
live
All these questions are as daily bread here
They correspond with one
by them.
ask involved and profound questions.
teachers are
many.
They keep
in touch
Such
and psychic
re-
A
to the boat. •
•
•
•
•
yd
morning we have been passing tall cliffs. Gray masses blocked up to the very edge of the water. The Irtysh has
Since are
village school
Toward midnight we reach Novyi Krasnoyarsk.
crowd comes ]une
another.
with each other and
are genuinely interested in scientific discovery search.
secrets of India,
[327]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA become narrower and flows still more rapidly. There is the little wooden city, Ust Kamenogorsk, and beyond, the mountains
The
end.
Irtysh spreads into a broad, smooth, flowing river
and on the horizon the separate mountains are
We
have decided
along the Irtysh.
by
It entails
On
night.
at
people and more
They
Farewell, mountains!
go from Semipalatinsk
to
Twenty hours
train.
late
visible.
still
a
the boat, there
There
air.
There
is
to
change of route.
to Novosibirsk; is
now
Omsk
But
it is
we would more
are cool days
say that for three years
noticeable.
and pyramids of vanished
crests
by boat,
no
better
arrive there
intercourse with
now and
cold nights.
changes of climate have been
no heat during the summer, but the winters
are also less cold.
Late
night there
at
themes.
It
is
again a conversation and on the same
is
really remarkable, personally to be
convinced of
the direction of the people’s consciousness. •
•
•
•
ft
June 4th
Three o’clock
Semipalatinsk.
The cargo
morning.
in the
is
transferred to another boat, the February Eighth, as far as to
We
Omsk. and
it
desire to help in all ways.
Omsk, where
lows.
We
In a friendly
On
visit a
The
for learning. river,
on which
Believers
:
give us letters to S.
bookshop.
way
no rudeness
was capsized by
roam
— there
is
about.
the
fel-
There
is
same eagerness
Irtysh has spread itself into a powerful, broad
rafts float.
“If
It
they rush to help the poor
the steamer curious children
respectfulness in them,
Old
They
boat was dragged under the steamer.
the current.
slow
they will arrange reservations for us in the inter-
national sleeping car.
A
is
Again we meet courtesy
takes twenty hours to Novosibirsk.
and the in
decided to go by boat because the Altaian line
you
tell
They
them
that
are
the Kerjaks,
you have eaten with Kirghiz,
they will never permit you at the table.
[328]
manned by
And
they
all
command
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA that one should cross oneself,” explains the of the steppe: “If thy
and the
rarely
Meat
again.
worth 80
is
is
Siberians,
And
it
The
as they say,
is,
A
thievery, bravado.
away
lead
still
to everything
born, Siberian: “However.”
—
The horseback riders are seemingly hewn out of stone,
disappear.
a horse.
a
good horse
added the firm, stub-
Siberians are
not afraid of
only some prank of the steppes,
Comanche
And
is
and
snow
Lately
lingers.
sold at 8 kopecks a pound,
rubles.
the Kirghis
proverb
one-eyed, try to close one eye
is
Below Beluha, snow
begin to appear. fell
nomads
auls of the
more
seen
A
boy.
with him.”
to be a pair
The
comrade
little
or a Zuni in Arizona will also
did the Scythians really hobble their
own horses on the vase of Kuleb? So much is being created. And the soil — the soil of Buddha — is being transported. Again, many dates will be forgotten and one may not record them. ]une $th
The
tales
about the cruelty of the Chinese are penetrating
even here, on the Irtysh.
The
the Chinese tortures witnessed by them. is
put into a hollow pole
is
thrust with
all its
filled
to saw.
Or
they
The
draw
is
drawn
a horsehair
a horsehair
news
as
was caught and sentenced
two hundred of
ransom
his tribe
came and
for the elder robber.
and they begin All
When
Kam-
all their
wealth
Only by firm measures,
robberies can be stopped, especially
if
the
recently a
to be exiled to
offered
this,
And
to the cities.
Kirghiz’s pranks also are related everywhere.
chatka,
The body Through the nose
through the eyeball.
the frontiersmen see and carry the
rich bey robber
convicted person
with sharp thorns.
weight upon the thorns.
and the nasal tube and mouth
remember
traveling frontiersmen
these
the Chinese will cease to
favor contraband, for which they receive big bribes.
The the
yurtas almost ended.
Low
pine trees and shrubs.
window, two young workmen [329]
are conversing.
Behind
They speak
ALTAI-HIMALAYA about the organization of their local theater, about
difficulties
with
They speak as one seldom hears in a capital. The frontiersmen speak of Buddhism; they understand it is not a religion but a teaching. They appreciate that Buddha the man, is a real historical personality. They are interested in costumes and lighting.
the manuscript about Issa; they discuss the vastness of matter.
What
accounts for this
nature of the
A
thinking?
vital, clear
spirit to strive
Because
He
do not understand
useful
it
would be
Ford himself among
to
grieves
“And how much
the value of practical unity:
they tend only to separativeness in the village: but
more
the
toward beauty.
bearded peasant from Nijni-Novgorod passes.
that people
is
it
work
as a unit.
If
we
only could have
us.” •
•
•
•
•
]une 6th
Some
people are afraid of mountains and they
tains stifle
The has
them.
Irtysh
grows
still
become yellow and
believe that
On little
these people also afraid of great
broader.
What
the white caps
a current!
rise.
Yermak might have drowned
the piers, the
though the
entire
Now
teristic
It is
The water we can well
here.
town had poured out on the steamer.
as
One
interesting to see the ease of migration so charac-
is
now
in Paveodar; this
Listen to their speech
in Semipalatinsk; this one,
—
this
one from
from Kronstadt,
one was in Seul and in Bokhara;
one
is
one from Nijni-Novgorod,
is
this
from the borders of Poland;
this
now
the last day of the Irtysh
in Altai.
train
Rose.
works ?
crowd becomes more and more dense,
of the peasant.
Kamchatka
A
moun-
fellow asks another, quite a small one: “Are you a Boy
Scout?”
is
Are not
insist that
To-morrow
and again
is
that beauty above
which
is
—Omsk.
the Sign of the
KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA June 7th
The wind and the whitecaps changed The crowds on the piers hid themselves. is
no
heat,
which she
Lichtmanns already
so feared.
started
The
?
We
into a cold
E.
I. is
pleased
ask ourselves:
last letters
downpour.
—there
Have
the
from America were
from the beginning of January and the telegrams from the beginning of March.
The charm and
it
Not
of Asia!
was always within
or the “Guests
the contagion
Even before
us.
—but the enchantment,
from beyond the Sea” was painted.
we be without thee, Asia ? But we have when shall we leave thee? And where is
not
shall
Who
said thy border
is
along the Ural?
What
Camp” And how thee. And
the “Polovetsky
left
thy border, Asia?
What
tasks can be
made without the stones, without the covenants of Asia ? The “Long Ear” of Asia hearkens to the music of the spheres. The “Great Hand” of Asia is raising the chalice. About the Long Ear of Asia are woven many tales. About the Great Hand of Asia, the epic is
accomplished without Asia?
only being written.
structure can be
All great Teachers
Mahatma.
reads the letter of the
came from
This morning
we
Asia. E.
I.
passed the
Yermak and the place where the conquerer of Siberia was drowned. The workman explained: “He would have swum out but his heavy armor dragged him down.” So the workman
village
remembers the hero of
these wintry lands.
June 8th
Omsk.
A
bridge across the Irtysh.
ings; a private house
where Kolchak
Kolchak Senate; the house of the the
worn banner
of
Yermak
is
Some
“historical” build-
lived; the building of the
soldiers; the cathedral
where
guarded; the half-destroyed prison
where Dostoyevsky was confined; the top of an old prison of the seventeenth century.
have
just left
It
and we
appears that both trains which shall
we needed
have to remain three days [33i
]
—until
ALTAI-HIMALAYA We
Thursday evening.
hear about
There
prices that they bring.
my
paintings and the high
more questions about Yoga,
are
about India, about Buddhism and about the teachings of
life;
of the study of will and cosmic matter.
Newspapers write
we have “found”
that
the legend
about
has
Whence comes this legend? How could we find what been known so long ago ? But we found something greater.
We
could establish that the story of the
Christ.
is
of Issa, the Teacher,
accepted and lives throughout the entire East, on the borders of
Bhutan and
Ladak and
on the walls of Sikhim, on the peaks
in Tibet, in the
Mongolian Khoshuns.
ulus lives this legend
—
a sensation,
is
And
in the
of
Kalmuck
not in the sensationalism of the Sunday
lives
That which
papers but as a firm, calm realization. is
life
West
an age-old knowledge.
for the East •
•
for the
•
•
•
]une gth
The
cold sun penetrates through the ornamented leaves of
Not
the Philodendron in the rooms of the Hotel Europe.
to a
hothouse, not to a botanical garden, but to Sikhim shall these leaves
carry our
Tishta
we
remembrances
ascended
to
—there,
where from the
Chakong, the very same
leaves
around the green mossy trunk, interwoven with the colors of orchids;
temple guard,
solitary
and
and
to the
ornamented
leaf shall lead
now
Lama Mingyur.
series
of paintings.
Musatoff and Levitan. paintings.
To
Museum.
From
There
And
into the far-off country
are going to the District
brilliant
simple linen shirt;
images close and dear
ethnographical department. a
stately, in a
evening legends of
this leaf shall flourish the
We
and
wound
temple in Chakong with the
to a small tall
river
It
and near
to us.
has an art and
the big cities they have sent
not only Levitsky
is
so this
our surprise,
we
find also
but
also
two of
my
Both are from the unfinished group which stood
near the walls of the studio.
One, “Boats” (1903) from the [332
]
Suite,
— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA “They
The
are Building the City.”
(a sketch).
One
should note that both are unfinished.
The local school “You are Roerich?” and America.
up and
teacher comes
— “Yes”—“But you
Again the same
1918?”
other one, “Benevolent Tree”
fairy tale,
And how
were
not be killed
But the one
“funeral services” and obituaries
?
away
has since
at the “funeral services”
killed in Siberia, in
which reached us
we
could
asks, in astonishment:
if
London
in
there were
who was
worked very
has traversed oceans and easily ascended heights.
chanted joyously,
Probably the
“funeral services” helped; and the obituaries were very heartfelt ones.
]une 10th
We
are departing: the trains leave at midnight.
shall rejoice,
upon the completion
it is
down somewhere
necessary to settle
to arrange the notes
But where and
and albums.
Two
Kosloff writes about Khangai. the black and the white
they in Scythian attire? figures? of
It is
— the
But
notes.
for a time,
and
when ?
statues are interesting
good and the
Are these Taras?
significant as
I
of the journey, to transfer to
you the complete drawings along with these brief for this,
Friends,
evil.
But
why
Or adapted
are
stone
everything from the old district
is
Orkhon. To-day
is
Saban Tui, a Tartar holiday of the sowing.
on horses and camels.
The
the grove outside the town.
Races
Tartars with loud bells gallop into
They
are celebrating the
new sow-
ing.
At midnight the
train arrives.
We
are passing
under the Sign
of the Rose ; under the sign of the holiday of the sowing. ings to Friends!
[
333
]
Greet-
Part
X
ALTAI (1926)
Across the entire heaven shone a rainbow.
And through the rainbow-gate rushed the Ob —birthplace of the wife and serpent.
two. great
The Shambatyon
On
will brave it?
most sacred
coming
letter
River its
—a
broad Ob: The
Who
along rapids and stones.
rolls
of the alphabet, conceals the recalls the
And
true Katun.
on the new
not one, but
M. M., name of
other shore live the people of
The Kabala
one.
along stones built
And
Shambatyon.
as yet, the city
Katun
the
the
* rolls
has not been
site. •
•
•
•
•
Katun in Turki means woman. “The Dodecahedron, significant of the feminine Origin, is being indicated in scientific terms which are connected with the dates of evolution.
.
.
“On Katun and on There
the Bia, brother will rise against brother.
will be great slaughter
and then there
will begin a
new
” life •
And
still
•
•
come and speak concerning the same year of The sun spots condense as at present only every
seventy-seven years. is
•
others
Twenty-eight.
* Katun
•
And
formed from the
then finally comes the most inspired
root, “to roll.”
[
334
]
— ALTAI What
person and he also talks about the same year.
wonder!
a
One, through astronomy; the other, through astrology; the through writings; the fourth, through numerology; and
What
concerned with the same thing. twenty-five to 1911 one gets the
Stone
—wondrous stone.
The
stone.
entire district
Elen-Chadir,
The
same
wonder!
result
— the
If
all
are
one adds
year 1936.
And
stone of Tigeretz.
simply
stone!
is all
Kuegan,
Tourak,
a
third,
Karagai,
Ak-kem,
Yasatar,
Ekonur, Chegan, Arasan, Urul, Kuraghan, Alahoi, Jharhash,
Ongudai, Eloman, Turgunda, Argut, Karaghem, Archat, Jhaldur, Chingistai,
Ak-Ulgun, Hamsar.
All these are names; these names of rivulets, habitations and
town
sites
sound
like a
chanting tune, like a harmonious peal.
many nations have brought their finest harmonies and dreams. The tread of tribes went and is returning. So
Near Black Anui on Karagol distances are not
And when we before us. shades.
It
It
known.
The depths and
there are caves.
There are bones and
inscriptions.
crossed Edigol the broadness of Altai spread
blossomed in
all
became white with
flowers stood the height of a
even locate the horses in
interblending green and blue
distant snow.
man on
The
and the
One cannot
horseback.
Nowhere have we
it.
grass
seen such grassy
vesture. •
An
Altaian overtook us.
•
•
Timorously he peered
kind of new foreigners had come to his
whip and disappeared
o
a
in the [
335
his
country
?
at us.
He
resounding grasses ]
What
brandished
—blue,
gold
a
ALTAI-HIMALAYA The resemblance between
and purple.
Indians and the Mongols
About the good Oirot
name
Altaian
is
North American
striking.
know.
all
the
Also they
know
the favorite
—Nicholai.
Beyond Yalui begin the Altaian
The peaked yurtas covered with the bark of the larch tree are darkened. The site for Kamlayne is seen. Here they do not say Shaman but Kam. Toward Anui and Ulala there are still Kams who “conjure forth snow and serpents.” But toward the south, Shamanism has been replaced by the teaching about the Oirot.
Ails.
White Burkhan and
have been abolished, being replaced by the burn-
Sacrifices
ing of aromatic heather and by harmonious singing.
new
pect the beginning of the
young Altaian guarded the
—who sensed
road,
•
it
is
new
We
no hardship
to
•
•
washed away by
stopped in Kurlyk.
But
the
era soon.
It
was
steps of the
a
They
ex-
woman—
world and
safe-
austere law.
first
•
The
his friend,
rains,
shall
•
exhausted the horses.
have to
sit
We
through the night.
spend the night in a place where the
teaching of the White Burkhan and his benevolent friend Oirot
The name
were born. district.
Here,
Burkhan. the caves
they expect the coming of the White
verily,
In the
cliffs
loom dark.
whole
of Oirot has been accepted by a
towering over Kurlyk, the entrances of
These caves penetrate deeply:
has not been ascertained.
There are
their
also secret passages
depth
—from
Kuen lun, through Altyntag, through Turfan; the Long Ear knows of secret passages. How many people have Tibet, through
saved themselves in these passages and caves! a fairy tale.
Just as the black aconite of the
Reality has
become
Himalaya has become
the Fire-Blossom.
When
the
white birch grew in our land, the White Tsar [
336
]
BURKHAN
WHITE
Scries)
East
THE
the
OF
of
(Banners
MESSENGER
OIROT,
ALTAI came and conquered our country. And the Tchud did not wish to remain under the White Tsar and went under the ground.
—“On the Ouimon they — spot show you the Tchud graves covered with stones” “On
And
they covered themselves with stones”
this
Tchud
the underground
The migration
departed.”
of the nations
has been imprinted there. •
The
Belovodye!
•
•
•
•
grandfather of AtamanofT and the father of
Moun-
OgniefT went in search of Belovodye: “Over the Kokushy
Over Ergor
Through Bogogorshe.
tains.
Whoever does not know the hungry steppe.
It
—by
a special path.
the path will perish in the lakes or
on
has happened also that the people from
Belovodye have come out on horseback through special passages over Ergor.
And
High
Belovodye came out.
From
it
happened
in a
long
special dates for everything.”
the south and
that a
.
skirt, a .
is
from the north, from the
exists.
east
and from
And
the
Will the subterranean Tchud not return?
not the bell of Belovodye ring out ?
On
the ridges
A
new
Consciousness of the
Do
the Agharti, the subterranean people, saddle their horses?
over Ergor
same
being impressed upon the best images.
center between the four oceans exists.
world
kind of sarafan.
.
the west, they are thinking of the same things.
evolutionary process
woman from
of stature, thin of figure, with face
She was clad
darker than ours.
There are
ago
also long
not
Does
Does not the horseman ride
?
—on the Dalnyi and on the Studenyi,
the peaks are aflame. •
•
•
•
•
“In 1923 Sokoliha with the people of Bukhtarma went to search for Belovodye.
came
letters
Not one
know
them returned.
from Sokoliha.
Belovodye but she All
of
lives well.
But recently there
She writes that she did not reach
Where
of Belovodye.” [
337
]
she
lives,
she does not write.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA when
“Since
news about Belovodye ?”
originated the
“The message came from
Kalmucks and
the
who
nally they told our forefathers belief
a
lived according to the old
and devotion.”
Which means lies
the Mongols; origi-
that at the base of information about Belovodye
communication from the Buddhist world. The same center
of teaching of
life is
Old
interpreted by the
Believers.
The way
between the Argun and Irtysh leads on to the same Tibet.
They
write about the magnetic storms and the unusual tem-
phenomena due
perature and about various natural tion of the sun spots. still
more
Next year the
effect of the spots will
Unusual northern
significant.
are
lights
be
possible.
How many
There may be shocks of the nervous system. are connected with sun spots, those
to condensa-
legends
menacing wrinkles of the
luminary. •
Ramsana their
whole
“Either
lives
watch things.
The
Sanely
America.
The
•
could not stand the low places
Of
leave or die.”
One can
course, Ladakis pass
number
the
Believer’s
he estimates
Sooner or
later
of
wagons and
a
work with
agricultural
heart has assimilated the the
industry
of
ma-
Germany and
work with America. They value the frank
they will certainly
character of the Americans and are aware of the to
It is
confidently depend on Ladakis to
people remember the Americans.
“Come
feet.
Oirot drivers are not like the Ladakis.
Vakhramey counts machines. The Old chines.
•
on heights not lower than 12,000
Ramsana.
pity for
I
•
He
Ladak.
left for
of the north.
•
common
us!” they call to the Americans.
friendly call has penetrated throughout
After discussing industry,
Vakhramey [338
]
all
traits.
This
Asia.
begins to
murmur,
chant-
some
ingly, desert.
.
.
tale;
And how
.
“And
catch:
I
shall
I
receive thee?
neither mansions nor palaces in me.”
me: the
familiar to
It is
whom
Vakhramey, about
me, thou most peaceful
receive
.
about
tale
.
I,
the desert, possess
.
“Dost thou know,
Jasaf.
Thou
singest
about
Buddha. Because the Bodhisatv has been transformed into
Jasaf.”
So Buddha
plowed
merged
Kerjak
the
into
them
led
fields
thou singest?
and cooperation
the machines
to
The
consciousness.
to
Belovodye.
But Vakhramey
is
not only versed in the cooperative move-
According
ment and
in canticles.
ones, he
not astonished
is
deer; he
the
He knows
tions.
And
knows
little
bees
and
especially the secret tradi-
This
know how and where
roots are hidden, but he loves
Gathering
in them.
anything; he knows the ores and the
the herbs and the flowers.
not only does he
and where the
at
covenant of the wise
to the
a great
is
the flowers grow,
them and
bunch of vari-colored
reach up to his gray beard, his face lights up.
And
And
Here
caressingly he speaks of their usefulness.
teleon
Healer.
the
drawn from For
thee,
And
It
is
experience.
he pets them. is
verily
Pan-
witchery but knowledge
Greetings,
Vakhramey Semeonich!
here
Vakhramey ’s
is
sister,
flowers.
Aunt
and
adorn them with bright
No
without her tell
.
.
thee
She
is
both
She
She can decorate any kind of
and casements, she can paint
lion as a guard.
Elena.
a skillful writer.
ment with ochre and madder-lake and
me
grasses, that
on Himalaya, does the Fire-Blossom grow!
knows herbs and
Let
delights
not dark
healer and a painter of verdure
will
indisputable.
all
On
birds
and
also case-
the doors
types of grass designs.
little
important
red-lead.
a
Or
she
a ferocious yellow
letter in the village
can be written
—
“And to whom art thou writing? to thy son? how to write” And a long, compassionate, heart.
—
[339
]
!
ALTAI-HIMALAYA felt epistle, full
of poetic spirit,
would flow
Such a capable
forth.
woman “With
You
see,
the people of
Bukhtarma we do not wish
to associate!
they appeared as comrades but really came to rob, and
the most characteristic thing was their ancient sarafan.
now
so
reformed. still
real
If
you meet one
human and
is
feels
Again one
—he
It is
sees a striving
.
.
.
And
.
.
of course, they have
away
turns
ashamed.
American machines.
new
Now,
they are called ‘Sarafaniki,’
.
Now we
ought
time to free the horses.”
.
have
to .
.
And
toward vigilant cooperation.
And from
herds are fattening on the high ridges.
Studenyi summit one can see best Beluha
he
his face, because
itself
—of whom
the
even
the deserts whisper.
Here on the Red regiment was destroyed by ambush. Here in
Everything bears the traces of the
highway, a the
Katun they drowned
psalmist, an old believer,
On
the Whites.
are lying the red Commissars.
And
war.
civil
the mountain ridge
under Katanda, the Kerjak
was hacked with
on the roads; and near them grows thick new
As
on the branches,
birds
so
calls a spider
—according
called misguir a spider.
What kind
of
misguir.
And
pletely
grass.
to
a guest
merchant
to the Siberian interpretation,
Turki idiom helped here?
the language of the people in Trans-Baikal,
beyond understanding.
The
root
graves
mouth flit words The inhabitants in
from mouth
forgotten and not recognized by any one.
Trans-Baikal
Many
sabers.
is
is
—
hiyus
neither
simply
Wind, this
is
is
in
com-
Mongolian
nor Yakut.
On This
They
the taiga toward Kousnetzk they eat fitches and marmots. is
dangerous because marmots bring on the bubonic plague.
say that the infection disappears
[34o]
from the fur under the
ALTAI
have
effect
Mongolia
is
the cattle plague
is
from furs?
in
the famous Spanish
bubonic plague?
to the
the rays
Is
not
it
often the breeding place for epidemics.
common.
also very
One
gets used to
In Lahore, in Srinagar, in Baramula, cholera was
everything.
raging
form
when
can ascertain
Whence came
and how much?
influenza, so similar in
And
who
But
influence of sun rays.
when we were
Kashgar,
One
scarlet fever.
Khotan
In
there.
was small pox;
there
gets used to anything.
Oirot horses are sturdy, as are also the horses from Kuldja
and
Olet.
The Karashahr
sturdy and are
race horses
and Badakhshans are not
adaptable for the mountains.
less
The Mongols and Buriats are anxious to see various countries. They want to visit Germany and France. They love America and Germany. The need of broadening one’s horizon is demonstrated by them in an ancient parable of a frog and a turtle: The frog lived in a well and the turtle in the ocean.
came
and
to the frog
“In your opinion
“Much
larger,”
him
my
times as large?”
.
well ?” .
.
“Much
the turtle as a boaster
The
.
turtle
of the vastness of the ocean.
my
the ocean twice as large as
is
answered the
times as large as
away
told
But the
“Much
.
larger”
and
a
.
.
.
.
.
“Wouldst thou say three
turtle. .
well?”
.
.
liar.
larger.”
.
.
Then
.
.
.
.
.
“And
four
the frog chased
.
Popovtsi, the Bezpopovtsi, the Striguni, the Priguni, the
Pomortsi, the Netovtsi (not recognizing anything, but consider-
many incomprehensible among the Semeiski (Old
ing themselves “of the old faith”) afford discussions.
And
toward Trans-Baikal
Believers exiled to Siberia with their entire families), also are
added the Temnovertsi, and the Kalashniki. Temnovertsi has
his
he alone prays.
If
own
ikon closed with
some one
else
[34i
Each one of the
little
doors, to
which
should pray to the same ikon, 1
ALTAI-HIMALAYA would become
it
They pray
more strange
Still
before the ikon through a
We have
(a loaf of bread).
little
never seen nor heard of
are
Among
Pashkovtzi,
Hlysti,
also
the green
cannot perceive
all
and blue
hills,
among
the
was
He
upset.
It
And
at the
offered to send
to
railroad line
Up
man whom we
the
‘then’?”
.
by mail
it
.
“Yes,
it
known
is
But
we
after consulting Biisk.
—connecting
the heart
this
line.
When, The mys-
“Yes?
before the war.”
.
.
.
also
can go on a “Dodge” up to Urumchi
up
up
to Kuldja,
Life forges a vital
web
at least
to
Chuguchak, up
itself,
to Semipala-
of communication.
Tales creep in from Kobdo.
veying to us
America!
becomes synonymous with the “pre-war epoch.”
From Peking one which means
He had
to Biisk.
and Novosibirsk. They say that even
went through
engineers .
as
it
from Barnaul was planned
terious “then”
tinsk.
en-
Katanda, even in pre-war times a
to
of Altai with Semipalatinsk
then
fillet,
extend the railroad line to Katanda, in two
from Beluha.
stages
beard and low
From there we sent America. The telegraph operator
he promised to send
planned
is
and Molokans.
the taiga thickets, one
never dealt with such a fearful animal insisted.
of 1926!
the last telegraph station.
is
telegram ever sent to
first
beliefs
carrying with him.
is
Kan
Ust
summer
in the
one cannot judge what the heavy-garbed counter
Kalashniki.
opening in a \alach
Stundisti
Glancing
curves.
—the
heard much, but such obscure
—and
we have Here
unfit!
Every one
is
interested in con-
something of unknown Mongolia, of the
land of magnetic storms, mirages of the sun, and cruciform
Every one wants to
moons. thing
He
is
strange.
They
tell
know
about Mongolia.
of a sentinel
who was
.
.
.
Every-
eaten by dogs.
hacked seven of them, but could not save himself from the
pack.
A
Mongolian commander [
in Uliasutai ate a
342
]
human
heart.
!
ALTAI who say Chinese. On the
There are some it
was
a
was
it
Iro
a
Russian and some
and toward Urianhai there
prophecy was born
to a
the reincarnation of the
do not recognize
Gegen was never reborn
On
always in Tibet.
was
either the
either as
the
also
born in China.
cliff
so-called
Mongolian or Chinese, but
way from
“mineral
On
Guards!
But
one or the other: Bogdo
Uliasutai to
wild people in furs jumped out and threw stones
They were
much
Shaman woman. They whisper about Mongolian Bogdo Gegen. And others
say that another unusual being authorities
is
think
who pronounced some
Also on the Iro a strange boy
gold.
who
the
way
oil” flows into the desert.
to
Kobdo some
at the
machine.
Manchuria from a
There
also exist such
magnetic places that even an automobile slows up.
Thus
at the cross-road are
design. it
And how
woven complicated
can they exist without news?
would not be worth while
tea
to
with a strong essence of
go
to a far-off ail
Mongolia
tales.
In this case,
and
to
drink
attracts attention.
—strange incomprehensible people,
“Blacksmiths of Kurumchi”
who not
carpets of Asiatic
only passed but also lived within the boundaries of Altai
and Trans-Baikal.
The
generally accepted divisions of Huns,
Alans and Goths are divided into manifold unaccountable sub-
To
divisions.
such an extent
is
everything obscured that coins
with exact dates are sometimes attributed to completely noncorrelating, temporarily established periods.
nameless
suri, stone figures; walls of
cities
Stagstones, Kerek-
— although
all
have
been written about and counted, yet the paths of the peoples
have not been the
last
clarified.
How
remarkable are the textures from
Hun’s graves which completed the famous Siberian
antiquities
There
exists a
legend about a Black Stone, which appears
the dates of great events.
If
you compare
[343
]
all
at
the verbal dates
ALTAI-HIMALAYA of India, Tibet, Egypt
and Mongolia, then
remind you that apart from the record of
down
set it
another history of the world.
their coincidence will
historians, there
The Kalmucks and Mongols
being
Especially significant
compare the testimony of completely unrelated
to
is
is
nationalities.
recognize from traces
by
left
horses and camels, the origin and the quantity of the cargo.
They
will say:
Two
horses are
“A horseman worn out and
passed here, leading the third one
two
Or “A
fresh.”
is
horses.
herd of horses passed by and with the herd are two horse-
men.”
.
.
.
Different occurrences
from the recent wars were
related to us.
One horseman
volunteered to force the surrender of a whole
regiment.
He
took his comrade and a big drove of horses.
“More,” he
said, “is
rection of the
He
not needed.”
drove the horses in the
wind and he himself went with
his
comrade
di-
to ne-
He demanded, “Surrender your arms at once, otherwise lead my whole army upon you.” They reflected, perceiv-
gotiate. I
will
ing the pillars of dust from the drove; then they surrendered
And
the army.
go
to
in
It is
This
to surrender.
is
Again they
report: “It
is
—they will go on horseback for
rumored
that you were lost.”
unquenchable desire for slander and that
They this
tell
a
not a fairy tale of Jengis-
possible that for a second time they will bury
say
comrade
a recent event.
Rumors even outride the motors two hundred miles to drink tea.
this
his
Thus he forced
advance and lead back the troop.
whole regiment
Khan.
commanded
the audacious fellow
many
imitations
amusing
way, using
my
stories
of
my
paintings
name, earned money. ]
it
Whence
is
false inventions
and even mention
[344
one?
Is
are
several
They
?
They
circulating.
men who
say that V.
in
and
— ALTAI R.
worked
that way.
before the war.
I
remember one very
The poor
collector
who
immeasurably grieved.
you
that I
to see a
few imitations
large painting not un-
my
composed from fragments of various of
cleverly
to
had a chance
I
to the
we saw
called
me
approve his purchase, was
to
may
Friends, they
Museum.
works.
Look, beware!
bring such imitations
So often
happened
it
paintings as well as whole albums falsely signed.
remember one painting by Rustschitz signed with my name.
They speak about
the destruction of
“Call of the Serpent”
is
many
of
from the Academy.
lost
my
paintings
“The March,”
“Unkrada,” “Building of the Walls,” “Sviatogor” and others are lost.
Of
them
course they consider
paths of objects are so unexpected.
came
across such subtle play of
—but
who knows? The Collecting Old Masters, we
lost
life.
A woman traveler, a painter, visits us. A geological expedition comes. A conversation about artists: Juon, Mashkov, Kanchalovsky, Lentulof, Saryan, Kustodief hold their ground. is
Dobujhinsky went
shaky.
Somof.
.
.
Benois
They do not mention Bakst has died. The young
to Lithuania.
They do not know
ones are growing.
.
that
StchusefT and Stchuko
go forward boldly.
The woman painter walks about, sketches old corners, gates, window casements, various beams and the little horses on cornices, as though making an inventory before a distant journey. The various tiny horses will depart from the roofs.
But with what will they be
well as the pattern of the chintzes.
replaced?
The “Viennese”
bring in culture. of the future bells
life.
Here
is
From
chair and the fading calico
a task for the
whole conception
is
for the building of a house an alert [
345
and from the peal of
symphony; though
a
1
do not
young: Give an image
factory whistles
some one has synchronized
unsuccessful, the
Let them depart, as
truly resonant.
hand
is
as yet
it is
And
thus
necessary and dis-
ALTAI-HIMALAYA passionate
Here Ikon
labor.
hovsky and Holuisky
from Mastersky,
painters
Pale-
work new importance.
lent the
In the East, they apply the externalization of sensitiveness not
only to separate individuals but also to groups and seemingly to
whole
districts.
The
result
a tremendous experiment in
is
And
the application of psychic energy. silently
this is
all
being done
and anonymously.
Behold and be surprised: books, paintings, songs, dances and buildings
—
all
anonymously.
upon
these are sent out
Books are
the waves of the world
attributed, according to tradition, to a
certain author, but he himself does not put his
manuscript. of Potala
On
not inscribed.
name
of the architect
on ceramics, on metal
faience,
the
art
one can sometimes see the trade-mark but not the name.
crafts
And
is
Paintings are not signed; the
name upon
in this
far behind.
fundamental anonymity the East has
One must
from the
learn
must absorb the psychology of the false visitors; the
the
West
East, but for that
The
one
East does not love
East easily discerns masquerading imitations.
And
the East will never forget
East
is
rendered
East.
left
at the
very
its
decision.
The judgment
moment.
first
of the
All the patches of
corrections only serve to intensify the clownishness of the imitative attire. •
The tion of
•
discovery of Theremin:
human hands which
the wall in the next room.” “scientific.”
•
•
•
“We saw on
took place
At
last
the screen the
at the
mo-
same time behind
the “miraculous” becomes
Finally, one begins to turn to the real study of all
of the properties of energy.
Just
when we
when we
did not ask; just
did not expect, he
himself spoke and demonstrated his knowledge of special places.
Our
simpletons would have considered this a fairy tale or an
[346
1
— ALTAI unusual revelation; yet here he smilingly closed his yellow khalat
knowledge of
and proved
his
“And with
that place,
now
and where they
certain ones
live.
for fifteen years there have been
no
communications.” •
To
Tashi-Lama
the
in
•
•
•
•
Peking came
group of Chinese
a
This reminded
ing for passports for the passage to Shambhala. us of the letter
which was written from Boston
Whence and how
ask-
Shambhala.
to
come together? Were Lao-Tzin? Or because
has this Chinese group
they attracted by
the wanderings
of older writings?
Or by
the
of
book of the Abbot of Wu-t’ai-shan.
Some time ago one would have ridiculed that fact but now a great deal has occurred. The literature has become so enriched recent invention
that the
laboratory of research.
and “magic” have passed into the
And
the skeptics are indignant, but only
because of their complete ignorance and unenlightenment. the most obtuse thinkers ask
“What
does
One may
mean?”
it
Even
speak about the significance of that which happens but the fact itself
by
They
now
does not remain unobserved.
of the experiment of Manouilof,
tell
searches into the sex of plants
who
has
and minerals and
masculine and feminine origin of
human
blood.
made
re-
also into the
Experiment
with the mineral “pyrite” gives a result long since indicated by the science of the East: “Pyrite produces crystals of
one a kind of cube and the other very same reaction
—one And
is
form of dodecahedron.
poured into the
test
will get a discoloration of fluid
if
the
discovery
is
new
dodecahedron
They
If
the
tube with cubic crystals
—the
masculine reaction.
same be performed with the dodecahedron
a purple color results
ning.
a
two kinds
—the feminine reaction.”
crystals,
For the West
this
but the ancient formulae of the East speak of the
as the
Mother
of the
World
—the feminine
begin-
also point out about the purple physical feminine [
347
]
You can imagine with what calm
emanation.
of the East listens to the
“new”
smile the scientist
“Hemo-
discoveries of the West.
globin in the blood of animals and chlorophyle in the juice of
And
plants are similar in their nature.”
the scientist of the East
nods, as a sign of an age-long assent.
Know! Know without
When
at last will
fear
and
in the entire measure.
people walk out of the foggy twilight of
“mysticism,” to the study of sunlit reality
?
When
will the dark-
ness of the cave transform itself into the radiance of space?
The horns
and the
of the deer
spring blood which
powdered horn
the
of
gum
Altaians
chew
must be
investigated.
the
of
fir tree tar.
the walls are
At
still
room
the gates
In the region of
Ak-Kem
per-
•
•
•
a red chalice sits
is
musk
•
Old
Believers.
seen the four corners of the former ikons.
painted on the wall.
is
He came
a white dog.
The White Burkhan, in
is
All the properties of
are stopping in the former chapel of the
In the next
The
deer.
the nettle of the cedar and the larch.
®
?
the
a strong excretion.
musk of the Tibetan The Kabarga feeds upon
fore
research into the
these woolly horns of course
fills
the
On
of
now
to
What is the difference between ram and the musk of Altaian Kabarga ?
meated with
We
Kabarga up
One must make
are regarded as precious wares.
healing qualities
of
jet
of course,
Ak-Kem
is
with
us.
also the Blessed
Where-
Whence ? Buddha.
The water Pure Belovodye. Through Ak-Kem We recall the conclusion of Csoma
are traces of radio-activity.
milky white.
the fiftieth latitude passes.
de Koros. •
About two
•
•
•
o’clock in the night, [
348
•
on the second of August, ]
east
ALTAI of the village Altaiskoye, a large, powerfully luminous meteorite fell.
To the
south of Verkhiniouimon,
the ridges, stones pit
on the summit of
last year,
and sand were erupted
as if
A
by an explosion.
was formed. Chalice”
“Unspilled
mountains.
Purity
mountains
his chalice.
— the •
“The Blacksmith Siver
exact center
— is
narrative of the
carries
from
a
mountain.
Good
on the Siver
on Siver Mountain.
is
In Altai, on the right bank significance
Its
being likened
is
Sayn Galabyn sudur
is
•
•
•
•
All the trees were charmed against harming Baldur.
was forgotten
struck Baldur.
“the
Era.” •
mistletoe
the
The Sumyr, Subur, Sumbyr, Siberian-Sumeru: The
world-mountain, Sumeru.
to the
he
•
of Sviatogor
from the four oceans.
of Katun, there
And
forges the fate of humanity,
The grave
Mountains
•
•
most reverberant
the
blue,
Phalut.
itself as in
•
Mountains.”
most
—and
the arrow
from
One
very mistletoe
this
All the animals gave blessings for the building
of the temple in Lhasa, but one, the gray bull,
was forgotten and
he was the one who, in the form of an impious king, rebelled
Nothing
later against the true teaching.
“Even
lected in the structure.
a
mouse
that exists can be negwill
gnaw through
the
knots.” •
Katun White
is
welcoming.
is
The
Beluha.
and cedars
?
Whose
•
•
•
The Blue Mountains
flowers are vivid
Who
are calming.
approachable
•
resonant.
and the green
has said that Altai
heart has
are
become
is
cruel
grasses
and un-
fearful of the austere
power and beauty ?
On clear
the seventeenth of
and reverberant.
*Zvenigorod
—The
August we beheld Beluha.
Verily, Zvenigorod * !
City of Bells. [
349
]
It
was
so
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Beyond Beluha there appears the crests of Kuen lun so beloved to the heart, and beyond that “the mountain of the Divine
Queen” and “Five Treasure Troves “the
Queen
of the
written, the spoken
And
of the Snows.”
White Snows,” and
all
herself,
the written and un-
and the unspoken.
“Between the Irtysh and Argun. Bogogorshi, over Ergor
itself,
rides a
[
350
]
Over Kokushi. horseman.”
.
.
.
Through
!
Part XI
MONGOLIA (1926-1927)
Bang! that
We “We
The
shot.
George had
moment.
gone away from the window
just
Who shot ? Was it intentional, or was
are forewarned:
Our Americans
annexed.
milla and
window.
bullet pierced the
it
We
arrive.
Boris
is
go with
will
prank ?
I
answer:
The
doctor
found.
Lud-
with them. is
very
at that
even for one
shall not delay
After a long correspondence, N. K.
Raya
a
good
It is
“But you will not depart.”
shall depart as always.
day.” is
A
us: the first thirteen-year-old girl
traveler into Tibet.
The Tibetan Donyer (Consul)
is
He
coming.
brings a Tibetan
The Donyer gives Our knowledge of Buddhism entitles
passport and a letter to the Dalai-Lama.
such passports to pilgrims.
us to receive the same attention.
Four Buriat lamas come and ask us
They saw
the banner of the Expedition
with Ak-Dorje on top.
We
— the
them with
And
like recruits they
little
signs of
walk through
George put them through a military
bought eight more
machine gun standing
rifles.
Everybody
in the dining
room.
amused by
is
us.
image of Maitreya
All the servants have put
Ak-dorje upon their caps.
Ulan Bator Khoto.
to take
Let them
a
drill.
Lewis
know
that
we have enough arms Coincident with our maneuvers, a Mongolian detachment was practicing to storm the stronghold.
And on
convoy went through the same maneuvers. [35i
]
the other side our
You can imagine
ALTAI-HIMALAYA how
completely confounded were both parties
when
they con-
fronted each other! •
“The Ruler
•
•
•
Shambhala.” *
of
•
This painting coincides un-
expectedly with the prophecy of the
appeared and the heads of west, but the
A
East.”
and begs
hand
make
“The Great Rider
people were turned towards the
of the Rider turned
all
peoples toward the
from the Mongolian government comes
representative us to
all
Lama.
a design for the temple-shrine
where
will
be placed the painting “Ruler of Shambhala” with other venerated objects. •
The Era”
book
is
•
•
•
•
“New
publication of “Foundations of Buddhism,” and
being completed.
It is difficult
The former
in a little printer’s shop.
ographer,
lovingly
Buddha” with
redraws
to give a fine
the
for
lama,
to the
now
a lith-
book “The Conquering
Again the messenger from the
the fiery sword.
Government comes. They beg for permission Mongolian “Foundations of Buddhism.”
Much
form
expectation and excitement!
to translate into
Nevertheless,
we
did not
E. P. tensely stands at the threshold and
delay our departure.
Him, who
solves all things.”
And
G. hustles about; he knows much.
One
says: “I await the solution of
here comes a telegram.
can sometimes converse with him about the most sacred legends. It
was he
also
who
told us of a
of the Teacher to Mongolia.
beginning of the
tale in
Thus is the entire desert do not know how Tibet Tibet,” tic.
is
It is
India and
its
will greet us.
beautiful, then “Great Tibet” errs
in
visit
strange to have heard the
conclusion in Mongolia.
encircled by one intense thought.
But often humanity
*The
Mongolian version of the
its
If
We
Ladak, called “Little
must be unusually majesappraisals
and the small
painting of Nicholas Roerich presented to the Mongolian government.
[352
]
MONGOLIA Unprejudiced, without superstition,
“proves to be great.”
we
shall
observe the reality.
Again
unexpected friends.
Among them
and prove an
to depart
And
and expectations.
of difficulties
sorts
all
the Esperantist.
again
They help
us
Like towers, are the
attentive escort.
highly packed automobiles.
There
is
a fully accredited story that
prophecy and then became normal.
in Sikhim.
The
It is
an extraor-
The prophecy proved
same one about the future Mongolia
lama
river Iro
Shortly after his birth he pronounced a
dinary child was born.
the
on the
well
remembered
as
was given
in
Mongolia.
to be
by a
to us
action of will used at a great distance has been remarkably
developed in Mongolia.
lama wrote
a
Quite recently one young Mongolian
book about the path
to
Shambhala. Books about
this
path written by the Tashi-Lama, the Abbot of Wu-t’ai-shan, a
known. The
Buriat lama, are also
Many
face in this direction.
understand of the
them it
is
all
Mongolian lamas know
meaning
Whenever we asked
a great deal.
showed deep knowledge. But then,
In the
From
the Gobi, the
it
the late
Bogdo-Gegen
Mongolia are enveloped
places in
camp among
Of
Ulan Bator Khoto, the most far-famed
the so-called Manjushri Khit.
was kidnapped. All
all
Some
of Shambhala.
not so easy to win their confidence in spiritual matters.
the monasteries close to is
Mongols
other neighboring nationalities also
the reality of the
questions, their answers
aspirations of the
the yurtas and the herds,
Mongols of our convoy
in legend.
upon the
hills of
are heard singing a song
about Shambhala recently composed by a Mongolian hero, Suche Bator:
“We march
to the
holy war of Shambhala.
reborn in the sacred land.” nantly, the golia they
.
Mongols send out
know
.
.
And
thus, valiantly
their hopes.
the reality of Shambhala.
[353
]
Even
in
Let us be
and
reso-
new Mon-
In Ulan Bator Khoto,
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Dukang of Shambhala is already fenced around. The Mongols know about the arrival of the Ruler of Shambhala to Erdeni Dzo and Narabanchi. They know about the great “Guardians.” They know of the great times. They know of the Chalice of Buddha which, after it left Peshawar, the
for the future
site
was preserved in Karashahr and disappeared
know
of the
coming
Ones
of the Blessed
to Altai.
They know
the true significance of Altai.
They
for a time.
of the
They know White Moun-
They know the sacred signs above the ancient Suburgan near Khotan. They know the news from China. Through all tain.
the silent spaces of Asia
They know
future.
is
heard the voice of the
that the time of Maitreya •
•
•
is
spirit of the
come.
•
•
In the automobiles, crossing the small rivers in the spring and because of the lack of roads, If
we have
one can traverse seventy miles
it is
breakdowns
a day.
indeed a lucky day.
Ordi-
ten
one does not make even twelve miles.
narily,
Many
(old graves), Kurgans: traces of great migrations. able stone figure that
now
Kereksurs
A
remark-
—they say that here lived a notorious bandit and
he has become
a
guard of the Path. The
travelers
smear
the lips of the statue with grease in order to request a favor.
Konchak, our
servant, stands for long before this
demands
peatedly
that
we have
skulls
and bones, the corpse of
coat.
T urpans,
wild geese,
a
all sort
a
good road.
image and
On
re-
the way,
baby wrapped in a sheepskin of ducks
fly
toward the north.
Herds of kulans. It is
road
evident that
is
not marked.
direction.
poor. Beise.
we
And,
shall not
The
for the
go
The
local guides themselves confuse the
most
part, the automobiles are altogether
we can reach the There we shall have to take If
far in our automobiles.
only
[
354
border, the monastery
camels.
]
Yum-
MONGOLIA We
That which was
hear legends.
by the “Ruler of Shambhala”
Dzo
Erdeni
is
The monastery
place.
Narabanchi and
to monasteries in
Yum-Beise
confirmed in various palaces.
windy
unpleasant,
told us about the visitation
is
an
not an inviting
itself is
Beyond and above the
one and the lamas are not gracious.
monastery, on the mountain, a tremendous phallus
erected.
is
.
.
.
There are endless negotiations concerning the engaging of the
They propose
caravan.
By
Anhsi) in three weeks. camels; by that time
it is
go
to
far
as
the end of April
smuggler,
is
found,
uncultivated
parts.
of water, but the
and knows
who
it
is
An
offers to lead us
new
it is
by a short road through
Usually no one goes there, fearing lack
lama has passed there no
that there are wells, streams
best to take the short
direction
Lama.
is
than twenty times
less
and
springs.
assures us that
pect our guide
Ja-Lama?
of
we
this,
now
the region
one
may
He knows
too
much
which we
Gobi
is
•
on our
•
flat
White
may have
dried.
]
The danger
in the
Sometimes the mouths
of the wells are filled with fallen animals.
[355
—pink—blue—and
slopes with a layer of stones.
not be caught in this stony gale.
that the wells
shall pass
new way, however.
•
gales bury the
the confidence
him and is too sure that He knows how Ja-Lama made
with him.
•
sus-
of
Limitless seems the Central Gobi.
One must
We
pass these places safely.
decided to go by this
The
of this
The lama guide
—may he not himself have been in
•
slaty black.
for this
his fellows are dispersed.
dangerous.
is
his prisoners erect his city citadel
We
up and
at this
the presence of the bands of the notorious Ja-
shall pass safely
way.
But
The only danger
way.
But he was himself killed and
Notwithstanding
and during
old lama guide, a
season even on the general road the wells also dry
reason
(beyond
not good for
hot, the camels are shedding,
time their strength leaves them.
this
Chibochen
as
One can
avoid the
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA lack of water by taking another direction to the east, although the Chinese bands infest these regions.
Night.
Fires.
van was looted. loud
rifle
Suddenly the night
The
shot.
Recently within this canyon a cara-
Sentries.
stamped
fires are
silence
A
out.
armed with revolvers, lies low. Who opened From somewhere comes the barking of for a volunteer to reconnoiter. to sing, all
is
well.
A
It is
He
caravan, did the shooting. fires
our men,
line of
fire
on our camp ?
We
dog.
a
decided that
vigilant silence and, at
“A Chinaman,
darkness comes a merry song:
broken by a
is
if
call
he begins out of the
last,
proprietor of a
got frightened at the sight of our
and thought we were robbers.”
Nyerva, leader of the caravan, whistles to the heat of noon.
Like
ancient Greece, the
Mongol
tips
of the desert grass
and
the
Mongol winks,
What
of winds!
a barterer of
as
in
winds on the shores of
whistles long in a
stir
wind
attract the
minor key and the
in a breeze.
;
The
breeze
calling our attention to this.
a subject for an opera or
rises
Barterers
symphony.
From the white pebbles on the bosom of the Gobi the hand of an unknown traveler has fashioned certain figures. There are sacred inscriptions; but there are also erotic drawings repulsive
amidst the majesty of the desert.
Again precautions Mongolian Ja-Lama or
We
sentries.
necessary to don
We approach the city of the notorious robber Tushegun Lama. We will camp somewhere nearby
hills.
was recently tered.
it is
kaftans.
for the night.
behind the
Again
are necessary.
In the dense twilight some objects loom dark
A
killed
dog
barks.
.
.
by the Mongols,
did not light our
In the
.
fires for
morning we hear [356
Although Ja-Lama himself his
bands are not yet
the night.
We
scat-
double the
the astonished exclamation ]
— MONGOLIA “Here
is
On
the city above us!”
the towers and walls
—a
up
the hills high
veritable citadel.
picturesque. George and P. K., with
It
is
are perched
imposing and
ready, go to investigate,
rifles
and the Mongols bid them farewell with warnings of caution.
We
watch through our
on the wall
—
means
it
But, finally they appear
field glasses.
now
that the robbers
have deserted the
castle.
He was
Ja-Lama was not an ordinary bandit.
Law from
Petrograd University and became a high lama of
Would
Tibet, possessing great occult knowledge.
have
erected
afar?
What
this
upon
city
high
a
elevation,
carried for long afterward
the bazaars of Mongolia
?
.
.
on
moving
•
through
What
a scenario
•
•
peculiar riders approach the caravan
gols about the
amount
of
gesticulate, indicating
—“Ja-Lama’s us We
a spear
picture! •
and
from
visible
All through the Central Gobi, the
.
legend of Ja-Lama will persist for a long time.
Some
a night-robber
thoughts and dreams fretted the gray head of Ja-
Lama, which was
for a
a graduate of
arms we
carry.
and ask the Mon-
The Mongols whisper
something very great and then inform
men; they
will not attack us.”
troops.
Vague rumors reach us about some Chinese To encounter them would be worse than Ja-Lama’s men.
We will
encircle
near Anhsi.
Anhsi by night. But Nivra
finds us before the walls of Anhsi.
They
hasten to cross the broad, swift stream. already have
left
loses the
way.
Dawn
turn the camels and
By evening we
shall
the boundaries of Gansu, and shall enter the re-
gion of Kuku-nor.
On
the mountains are the ruins of fortresses
landmarks of the former rebellions of the Dungans. Swift streams.
Before us
is
[
the
357
]
snowy ridge
of Nan-shan.
ALTAI. HIMALAYA The its
Central Gobi
is
ended.
eroded auriferous ridges,
Interior Mongolia, waterless, with is
In the mighty bottoms
ended.
of these departed streams are concealed of the giants of antiquity.
It is
the
first
we have been camping on
ten days
all
manner
of remains
Already for
of June.
the silvery banks of Shih-
Nan-Shan glows in the sunrise. The mountain stream murmurs. Whitely gleam the herds of goats and rams. Riders speed by us is there any news? Rumors are in the air. When shall we advance? They try to frighten us by telling us pao-ch’ang.
—
There are many reasons: The grass must
not before September. thicken.
and
also
The camels must fatten and their wool must grow; the treacherous swamps of Tsaidam must dry. The Blue
River will also subside by
and Chamnar, and
the Chinese, overcharges us.
await news from Su-chow
meantime,
the
in
We
fall.
The
Machen, pupil of
sly
old cheat calls
me
“the Ameri-
can King” and frequently during the day gallops over from his
camp
own.
to our
•
Because
we
•
successfully administered medicine to them, the
Mongols request us dented drought.
In spite of
•
•
all
to invoke the rain, because of the unprece-
They
offer us five dollars
the machinations of
named
Sharagol under the ridge
from each
Machen we moved on
after
Humboldt.
the cloudy quicksands of the Sharagol river with taries just in time.
horse.
Ulan davan (16,000
The Dalai
Konchok almost drowned
We camp beside feet)
a
We
to
crossed
its
endless tribu-
his
gray Chinese
mountain spring on the on the road
yurta.
foothill before
to Tibet.
Tibetans relate that during the time of the flight of the
Lama
in 1904, at the
horses felt a severe tremor. that they
were
at the
Chang-thang
The
Dalai
crossing, the
Lama
explained to
hallowed border of Shambhala. [
358
]
men and them
Does the
MONGOLIA Dalai
Lama know much
Shambhala ? The Tashi Lama knows
of
far more. •
•
On
we
July fifth
Shambhala
tent of
•
•
•
celebrated the Festival of Maitreya.
In the
was performed and neighboring
a long service
Mongols came and sang with our lamas. •
•
•
•
•
Mongolian “noblemen” drape around themselves the broad
They wear gray
pleated medieval kaftans.
though
felt caps, as
from the paintings of Gozzoli, and sacred chains and amuaround
lets
Whirlwind and sandstorm.
their necks.
o’clock in the afternoon
we had
box ourselves
to
At two
tightly within
the tents and light the candles. I
draw
Suburgan on the
a plan of a
site
of
On
the Great Guardian stopped for the night.
Nyerva from
new
Kumbum
Lama
to
Shambhala.
K. has been galloping to Mahoi for camels.
P.
Three new books are being compiled. with snow; the
air
the views of
New
They whisper:
is
fresh
and the
which our
heights, toward
York.
“It
day passes without
is
its
The peaks glow white
stillness recalls
spirits yearn.
the attainment of
is
a
They
Since
let
•
•
•
are building a
them go
hundred
a
•
Mongols
is
cele-
new obo (a kind of Suburgan); The young people of our camp
to the festival.
morning we have
language which,
Not
conversations on miraculous America.
there are races and festivity!
beg us to
Promised Land.
Shambhala!”
July fourteenth the annual holiday of the
brated.
our Himalayan
The Mongols admire
For them America
•
On
July eleventh
monastery brings the prophecies and the
prayer of the Tashi
For three days
Shambhala where
discussed the need of a Pan-Asiatic
at least elementally,
dialects of Asia.
would
reconcile the three
In the evening our lamas read the [
359
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA prayers to Maitreya and Shambhala.
what meaning
stand
The
word Shambhala
At night
the
West could under-
or Gessar has for Asia!
The middle
and wind begin.
rain
autumn.
the
If
of July
is
more
like
the rain beats on the mountains.
In the midst of the rain and storm, most unexpected news
Such conquest of space
reaches us.
is
amazing.
news of the passing here of the Mahatma a veritable
On
It
forty years ago.
even
is
Again
cold.
is
July twentieth directions of the utmost importance reached
They
us.
buran and showers.
There
No
results.
may
lead to certain
as yet suspects
our immediate
are difficult to execute but they
one in the caravan
program.
On
the next day also important
know
our fellow-travelers did not
who
Raya,
is
This
is
and bring the
Lai
Once
the fundamental teachings
treasure
Mongols help
in the erection
—norbu-rinpoche—tiny
seeds to put into the chalice of the Suburgan. laid the
these dates
not only our day, but also the day
of the completion of our Suburgan. it
Compare
life.
July twenty-fourth.
of
it.
already thirteeen years old, has
Thus do
never yet heard of Christ. vanish out of
of
Gold was brought from Ulan Davan.
with your events. again the gale.
news came and once again
stones
Within
is
and also
Ak-dorje and the Maitreya Sanga.
—in
The end
Hindu means of July: “I
red.
am
going joyously into the
—the wandering stone.
exilis
thing impending.
battle.”
Lapis
Yesterday the Buriats foretold some-
Precisely, “I
am
[360]
sending the best currents for
!
MONGOLIA the
We decide to start We shall dare 19th.
happy decision of the works.”
Tsaidam
on August
to Tibet
new
dangerous Tsaidam in a
Toward evening on
•
•
•
the twenty-eighth
We
along with his sword and the ring.
down
him, when,
The
torrent swept
Much was
kitchen, the dining tent, George’s tent.
told us that
Many
irreplaceable things
on the eve of
the
destroyed and to our
were destroyed. N. V.
some
inexplicable
were destroyed by
to Y.
fire.
It is
Correlate
!
•
•
•
to consecrate
It
of
Tsaidam
Prince Kurlik Beise sends envoys; he
it.
offers his caravan.
•
The Elder Lama
complete the Suburgan.
comes
to hear
away
walked up
his departure, for
by us •
We
We
yurtas were swept away.
reason, the tankas sent significant
had hardly time
This was the result of the strange
night-tumult in the mountains.
waist in water.
N. V. came galloping
the canyon, in place of the peaceful stream,
swept a devastating torrent.
many Mongol
cross
to
direction.
•
•
through
is
significant because the Prince usually
molests travelers.
On camp
August in the
fifth
—something
Kukunor
district
We
remarkable!
not far from the
were
in our
Humboldt Chain.
In the morning about half-past nine some of our caravaneers noticed a
began
remarkably big black eagle flying above to
watch
this
of our caravaneers remarked, bird.” tion
And
sun, like a this
he shouted in
from north
to south,
thing changed in
had time
it
to take
its
“There
this is
Seven of us
same moment another
something
his astonishment.
far
We all saw, in
at great speed.
a direc-
from south
direction
Crossing our
camp
to southwest.
And
disappeared in the intense blue sky.
our
above the
something big and shiny reflecting the
huge oval moving
we saw how
At
unusual bird.
us.
field glasses
and saw quite
[361
]
We
distinctly
even
an oval
ALTAI. HIMALAYA form with shiny
one
surface,
side of
which was
brilliant
from
the sun. •
•
•
•
On
August seventh the Suburgan was consecrated. Gegen of Tsaidam arrived; about thirty Mongolian guests also came. We
They promised to guard only the Dungans would not
held the service to the Suburgan.
the
Suburgan of Shambhala.
de-
stroy
If
it!
There was
revolt
among
our Buryats.
nese with a false report about us.
we
They
Following the with an
official
The Mongols
are
good
of the Sining
shots.
•
•
false report of the Buryats, the
Of
our passports.
•
•
to the Chi-
Instead of the rebellious Buryats
took three Torguts with us. •
They went
Amban,
Chinese
soldiers,
arrived.
They examined
We
paid the Chinese.
course, again extortion.
are indignant about this incident. •
•
•
•
o
Unexpected guests come swiftly from out the
desert.
Toward
evening a mysterious stranger, in a beautiful gold embroidered
came galloping along. Who was he? Hurriedly he entered the tent. Without naming himself he said that he was our friend, that he must warn us concerning an attack prepared against us on the border of Tibet. He warned us of the
Mongol
garb,
need of increasing our guards and our reconnoitering troops.
Who
Thus he spoke and galloped away. say:
“He
is
monastery.”
was he?
Our lamas
either a thief or a robber or a collector for the
No one
liked the luxurious garments of the stranger.
But he was a friend.
He
desired to help.
Again an
operatic
episode. •
•
On
A
August nineteenth we
memorable night
marshes.
We
in
•
•
started
Tsaidam
•
through Tsaidam to Tibet.
—when
we
crossed
the
salt
could not stop but had to go a hundred and
[362]
MONGOLIA twenty miles without a is
invisible
and
we
yet
crossed the most dangerous parts during
the night without realizing
path are bottomless
cult but at last
If
When we it,
On
it.
and
errors
it
impossible to
is
finished.
is
in a
new and
was
It
in the shortest
is
by no means
as the
one unconsciously looked toward the west.
dam and Kuen
lun the
course, this entire space
may
these hills there
We
maps show is
be
diffi-
on the maps.
passed Tsaidam, which
glowed the endless pink sands.
direction,
all
Tsaidam was crossed
narrow
either side of the
the horse trips
false step
There are many
direction.
indicate
pits.
One
him.
extricate
In the darkness of night the road
halt.
recalled that
maps There
between Tsai-
a complete desert area.
Of
Whereas, in the folds of
unexplored.
much which
remarkable.
is
In this
from the regions of Khotan and Scherschen the ancient There may be
Buddhist monasteries might have spread. esting hermitages gols speak
little
and monumental
in the sands, of buried cities
—but
But even the Mon-
caves.
They speak
of these regions.
inter-
all this is
of caravans lost
legendary.
The gesture of greeting of the Tsaidam Mongols is remarkable. They uplift their arms as though paying their reverence to the sun.
It is
so rhythmical
beautiful gesture of the
and beautiful!
It
Hindu Brahmins
during the hour of morning prayer. the beautiful gesture of the
reminded
that
I
saw
In the same
me
in Benares
way
Mussulmans when they
of the
I
recall
are paying
homage
to the old
Mazars (tombs).
They
talk about
some foreigners who were in Taiginer and Again they say that foreigners came and
bought old things.
took away “Burkhans” from
Tun
huang.
took place at the celebrated cave temples. talk about
it
in different districts.
[363]
Not
a
Evidently something
There
is
too persistent
few things were
stolen
ALTAI-HIMALAYA for the
Museums
Europe
of
—but they talk of these especial “bur-
khans” from Kashgar, from Urumchi
to the very borders of the
Tibet.
Half-devoured corpses of
The
men and
traces of the recent battle of the
The Mongols
seen here.
horses are beside the road.
Mongols and the Goloks
removing
are
under the protection of Prince Kurlik
us.
Beise.
and hurrying
Soon we approach
which our unknown well-wisher
the Naiji Pass, the point of
warned
their yurtas
are
All seems quiet but near the
The
camp-fire and a lost long-pipe.
camp we
find a fresh
place has been recently
inhabited.
In the morning
and
P.
K.
Behind
Then
we
proceed as usual.
at a distance
on horseback
of us
all
In the front, George
—we
and the lamas.
the Torguts with the mules and further
behind, the caravan with camels, guarded by Golubin,
and Tsering.
In front of us
Elena Ivanovna, always
is
a canyon between
sensitive, hears the distant
Suddenly across the canyon among the to
hiding between the
leap,
“arangan,” meaning robbers. that
we
On
of Panagis stops,
is
armed
riders begin
Lama
shouts
hill
and be
command
of the situation.
we become The troop
evidently surprised at our unexpected
The Colonel with
out
closer to the
ma-
Oschir the Torgut and the Buryat
Buchaieff gallop toward them with threatening shouts.
become confused and
The
rest
The
Panagis, unexpectedly
as a sign of
submission lower their
of us, ready for battle, keep watch.
caught,
hills.
barking of dogs.
the peak, instead of being the attacked
the aggressors and take
two
give the order to turn back so
can occupy the peak of the
Torguts.
neuver.
Zangin
hills. I
hills,
Konchok
One of them holds a long spear— the sign declared. The chief thing is always to act boldly! arms.
[364]
that
We
war
is
wanted
— MONGOLIA to
buy the spear
—but
“We
the Panagis said,
cannot
sell
It
it.
our friend.”
is
The
next day another attack was prepared but a
snow-
terrific
storm, mingled with thunder, dispersed the superstitious Panagis.
And
so
we
crossed Naiji.
of wild yaks.
us
One
was the snow
admired the tremendous herds
them was
of
killed
names
own names from
Behind Angar Dakchin is
known
Belovodye.
Not
to the
Old
How
night, the
It is sad.
The same Kokushi
Kokushili.
is
Polo.
Toward
ancient times.
Believers
from here
far
Marco
or
Before
mountains and lakes which
to the
Mongolian lama died of hemorrhage.
which
by the Torguts.
Angar Dakchin,
ridge,
strange to give European
have their
We
on Altai
—the
seekers for
also are the sacred borders.
We
They cannot be crossed on horsesummer. But now, in the fall the water reins of the horses. Only two horses
pass the rivers successfully.
back in spring or is
in the
not higher than the
Even the Blue River with
sank.
swift current
its
was not an
obstacle.
We
Why
look for the Tibetan outposts.
Something glows white
no snow around superb.
It is
here.
in the distance. Is it a
tent?
.
But
a gigantic geyser of glauber
—
glistening in the sun
verily, a sacred
[
365
]
.
.
are they not here?
Snow—but
this salt.
there
is
something truly
is
A
boundary.
snowy mass
Part XII
TIBET (1927-1928)
October 6th
Like black spiders with long of the Tibetans, stretched
troops take our passport until they bring the
legs, are
upon the
We
camp
in the
thin, prickly weeds. tains.
flowery
two
On
days, is
and the chief commander of the
a
marshy plain overgrown with
the horizon this
is
a veritable
is
mouncemetery. Long
the lake and dead
now
ago, these were great mountains, perhaps rivals of Everest;
they are eroded and crumbled into small stones. leys
became
filled,
forming a
heavenly Himalayas, one
a bird, not
rush to
Two
his hands.
rear guard lies
Thus
to the brutal
sites,
into horrible marshes.
and almost
in his saddle
him and
take
him
off.
He
before the
The
falls
horses is
not
off his horse.
has almost no heart
strong doses of digitalis are administered.
He we
We
rub
From
the
recovers.
Further ahead Elena Ivanovana begins to
and
open
val-
an animal.
George slumps
beat.
falls
The deep
and stumbling among the ugly clumps. There
are slipping
We
hill of 15,000 feet,
Before reaching the most significant
winds.
the
titles!
middle of
them dead because
I call
for
answer of General Horchichab, that
What
tents
The border
longest ropes.
and suggest that we camp
chief ruler of the Province, Hor,
northern front.
hidden the black
are notified that
feel badly.
Lama Malonof
unconscious on the road.
The
inhospitably does Tibet greet us.
[366]
fell off his
horse
doctor hurries to him.
Museum.
Roerich
MONGOLIA
IN
TSAM
Roerich
Nicholas
by
painting
a From
TIBET
A
multi-colored banner with a bent
bagpipes.
The
Deep
firing of a salute.
Music
staff.
in the tent
gratiating speech
two
for
days.
and again requests us
Then
to stay in his
camp,
The banner
cance.
visit to
Kap-sho-pa
is
one of
little
an if
the General accompanies us into our
impression from our
and
round
his
with banners and music and the motley crowd forming
The
the
He makes
Ak-dorje of rubies.
a crosslike
is
is
On
figure of the General in a vivid yellow khalat.
Chinese cap
—drums
in-
only
camp
his suite.
insignifi-
has become bent; his sword hangs like a piece
of futile theatrical property; under the precious stones, dirt
accumulated: This
have rejected.
selves
old Chinese stuff which the Chinese themIt
no longer
is
fit
for life
and has
gone, as well as the finesse of the
ocrity
and
pression
ugliness.
from
his closest
One
art.
perceives only medi-
Probably the General thought that the im-
his yellow khalat
would be very
—none
of these Tibetan;
and
in the place
foreign button was lacking, a safety pin was stuck.
were of doubtful
fitness,
Again drums and he
salutes
The
a
rifles
from the guns. The General, with tent.
At
the
all
same time
curious to examine our things, proclaiming that “the hands
of small people
We among
must not touch the belongings of great people.”
are told that the General
the Horpa.
At
the
hunting of the musk deer. is
where
but there were plenty of musicians.
motley crowd, accompanies us to our
is
But even
great.
bodyguard was ragged and adorned with buttons from
three armies
this
lost
former decorativeness, because the quality of the handiwork
all its is
is
is
allowed to
kill
came
to settle
some uprising
same time he placed a ban on the It is
quite incomprehensible
domestic sheep and yaks,
foxes and everything savage are protected.
when wolves and But the population
holds to a different opinion and secretly hunts kulans.
[
367
]
why one
— ALTAI-HI MALAYA Our
Tibetan, Chimpa,
is
He was
dying.
useful to us during
when the Mongols decided But when Chimpa reached Tibet he to desert us after Naiji. asserted his real nature and at the crossing to the camp of the the encounter with the Panagis and
General he
This was his gratitude for
tions.
and
took our five camels, our tent and severed
left us,
all
rela-
our care during his sickness
for our priceless medicines!
Evidently even a Tibetan cannot withstand the local climate.
This
The lama from Kharchin
died from pneumonia.
Did not the
of the altitude.
body when they crept
And
bears sense the presence of a dead
camp the night of wait long. By morning his
prepares to depart for
And
and disappears.
gift
formed into
a
cruel five
height of 15,000
feet.
are stationed with us.
caravans.
We
The caravan near the repast.
Of
are trans-
summer
under whirlwinds and
gales, at
are forbidden to
passing
Every day there are new corpses
and packs of wild dogs
of the major
soldiers
buy food from the population.
his heart
who was
new
noisily divide their
104 caravan animals, ninety perish.
pneumonia and
Five
men
die
Malonoff’s body be-
and
finally
he also
dies.
stationed with us gets sick of
dies.
Gryphons and letter to the
to
two days in
Mongolian lamas and two Tibetans.
The wife
letters
corpse was
A major and some ragamuffin We are forbidden to speak to the
comes swollen from an attack of
My
?
Finally he accepts
months of encampment
slowly perishes.
tents,
Kham.
the caressing
tents, in a frost of sixty Celsius,
three
his death
them.
The General
a
died because
closer to the
they did not have to
left to
our
The Mongolian lama
the third death in our caravan.
is
eagles fight with packs of dogs over the prey.
Dalai
Lama
is
found torn on the road.
The
Colonel Bailey, British Resident of Sikhim, and to
the Consul General of the United States in Calcutta are seized.
[368
]
TIBET
We
move
are forbidden to return or to
In spite of George’s
on.
knowledge of the Tibetan language we can only study Tibetan
we cannot
starkness; but
help our condition.
life
in
tell
us that the telegraph between Lhasa and India
its
now
because
Tibet does
They
“Pellings.”
is
They
destroyed
need communication with the
not
refuse to take into consideration the doctor’s
They
was
lost
Instead of the General’s promised permission to proceed
we
certificate
about our
illness.
say that our passport
on the road although witnesses deny
this invention.
The Tibetans
remain on a plain exposed to the winds. that the General’s messenger to
Lhasa disappeared on the road.
Instead of helping, the Major prevents us
He
the neighboring villages.
passing caravans and
is
offers to
go
from buying food
without any feeling of compunction in
The
doctor
is
very pessimistic
because of the increasing
fatal illness
in disguise to India, but without
language and with
in
communication with the
forbids
the exchange of Chinese dollars.
and prophesies
us
tell
his noticeable
frost.
knowledge
N. V. of the
would end
height, this
dis-
astrously.
The seem
entire population of black
raw meat. They smoke of the fire is
They
full of unrest.
now
Horpa,
like small
Niebelungen,
They
eat
—black from
the
sleep in a seated posture.
are only covered with half-rags
—and skins.
They whisper, “The
entire district
Our yaks and have Tsampa (barley). Our
covered with snows such as never before.
sheep will perish.
We
children will die and
shall not
we
shall die.
And
all
this
misfortune
because our government treats great travelers in such an
is
inhuman
way.”
The lamas
predict that everything will turn out well,
the messenger with a propitious answer
to-morrow he increase.
On
will arrive.
But the days
the white plain
no one [369]
is
is
already coming, that
pass.
seen.
and that
The frost and gale The last horses and
ALTAI-HIMALAYA During the night the shivering animals come
camels are falling.
close to the tents, pulling the ropes as at
dawn we
find
them
skins, pull
a
And
them dead. few
steps
And
they are knocking.
if
our men, huddled in sheep-
away from
the camp.
Otherwise the
dangerous wild dogs and gryphons, the grave diggers, would give us no
One pack
rest.
tacked me.
of dogs
—about
fifteen
Every day our fire-arms are
wants to buy our arms, but in
this
at
—has
already
at-
The Major
hand.
country one must guard one’s
arms.
Again
frost
and
Finally there
gales.
is
an uprising followed by
They thought that by slander they would improve their position. They were com-
the secession of our Buryat lamas. against us
pletely unable to obtain
And
so each day goes
from Chunargen
Sharugen
to
Then we make
We
of
marching and again the same
requested permission to
encampment
at
We
Kham.
were
told:
We
Eastern Tibet again.
Again, “Me, me, me.”
At
the
fingers of the Dalai
It is
“Me, me, me,”
asked to be permitted to pass through
Everything
same time the General writes us
the “drops of clemency
governors of
General Kap-sho-pa
visit
which means, “No.” me, me.”
which
Lama.”
Nagchu
move Bon-po mon-
a short
in the vicinity of the
Only about two hours
detention. in his
by amidst the frozen plain with the dull
dead mountains.
outlines of the
astery:
work.
are dripping
“Me,
is
letters
about
from the respendent
But weeks go by.
And
finally the
themselves come.
quite unprecedented that both governors should at once
leave their province
and come personally. They come with black
eye glasses, in woolly fur caps. ished that
we
gave importance
They to the
are noisy.
a sly old
to
have strangled the
Manchurian
official.
Amban
We
[37o!
are aston-
Tibetan passport and
gether conduct themselves unreasonably.
rumored
They
One
of
them
of Sining.
endure
all
is
alto-
a lama,
The
other,
with great pa-
TIBET Now
tience.
they will transport us to
continuation of the same detention.
But somehow, somewhere, we
Some
most roundabout way.
not exceed ioo days, but
it
shall
Nagchu but it will be a They will demand gifts.
move, though perhaps in the
of us hope that our detention will
will be
more
assume 150
correct to
Thus
days and several additional days for delays on the road.
we must
count the entire detention
Of
as lasting half a year.
course during this time the Tibetans have afforded us an unusual
opportunity to become acquainted with their
Without communications with governors,
ethics.
pons,
officers, elders
customs and
life,
generals,
dzong
and lamas, we would not have any assurance
about the reality of Tibet.
Everywhere
are the signs of the cross.
coins of Nestorian khans have a cross, dhist monastery near
saddle
is
also a cross
Even upon torians
Peking
and the
the very
and over an ancient Bud-
cross.
On
Ladak and Sinkiang
the stones of
old Mongolian
the seat of the
with a
reins are also fitted out
crosses.
cross:
Not
life.
On
its
sign.
All bronze
tombs, are formed of a cross in a
fibulae,
The
fire,
but
steed of
probably from the
circle.
Everywhere are the same signs of Chintamani. pillars of the
— always
the Chinese hats
of Tibetan generals glows a ruby, crosslike dorje.
happiness carries
the
In the design of the
the swastika with the streams of
of equal arms, the eternal symbol of
Nes-
On
on the beads, on the necklaces, on the amulets same
cross.
are crosses.
and Manicheans passed broadly through Asia.
frescoes of the monasteries are
kaftan,
a
is
The
The
little
houses and the clay-beaten walls are marked by this
thrice-powerful image.
The
mules, the wrought silver vessels,
the military banners, the prayer banners, the wood-cut on the
page of a book are strengthened by the symbol of power.
Compare
the present tale with [
37 1
its
]
original source:
Now
one
ALTAI-HIMALAYA says:
“And
and
perished
hunger descended upon earth and people
great
could
longer
not
Bodhisattvas sent a shower of
food that not only were also
of
all
brought mountains of
it.
The
years to
endure.
Then
Blessed
There was such plenty of
rice.
the people fully sustained but they
rice
and erected temples and chortens
temples were of such dimensions that
walk around them, and one
it
took several
chief chorten could only be
This place
encircled in several days.
the
exists
upon an
island
where
formerly flourished the true teaching of the Blessed One.”
One must understand upon
And
earth.
it
thus: Great spiritual
hunger descended
people could no longer exist in such dreadful
Then the Great Teacher sent a true shower of spiritual food. Humanity which was exalted by this benediction erected great monuments of spiritual achievements. The measurements of these achievements are unencompassable. The conditions.
And
its
power
All around us
is
death.
teaching of Shambhala exists in a fortified place. will soon
become manifest.
One cannot For
five
believe
any statement.
months on the main road
to
China and Mongolia only
The Tibetan nomads whisper about the Of course under such conditions the difficult times for Lhasa. country cannot exist. Finally the governors of Nagchu become three caravans passed.
satisfied
our
with the
money
is
gifts,
and
through passes of 20,600 across the
easy way.
Namru Dzong, not
Shentsu Dzong,
marked on maps,
to
Saga-
Brahmaputra, to Tingri-Dzong, Shekar-Dzong,
have decided to show us left
to
feet
Kampa-Dzong and through should be
information that
exhausted, decide to send us out by a roundabout
way through Chang-thang Dzong,
after receiving the
in our
Nobody
Sepo-la to Sikhim.
all religions
mind about
Evidently they
of Tibet so that
this
country.
It
has yet crossed from Ulan Bator
Sikhim. [
372
]
no doubts is
not an
Khoto
to
TIBET The
monasteries of Bon-po of the Black faith, hostile to Buddha,
have a curious
Mass exactly
In the Black Faith, which as a Black
interest.
Buddhist
inverts the ritual of the
only denial of Buddha, and denunciation of
Buddhists left
enemies.
as
If
Buddha and direction.
sees
of all
the Buddhists encircle the altars
Bon-po takes the opposite
to right, the
one
faith,
from the
If
Swastika of the Buddhist turns in the direction of the sun, that
Bon-po must be turned
of the
have invented their
own
and
saints
special sacred books.
who
have invented a special protector
you study the biography of
replaces
Buddha; and
is
also
supposed to be of royal family.
do not allow Buddhists neither the Tashi
Lama
only a
is
They
Lama
if
legendary protector you will be
this
astonished to find the same details and events as in the
Buddha; he
They They
in the opposite direction.
to enter their temples,
nor the Dalai Lama.
life
of
The Bon-po
and acknowledge
For them the Dalai
civil ruler collecting taxes.
are very friendly with foreigners because they
that foreigners have nothing to
do with Buddhism.
believe
In the begin-
ning they greeted us heartily and proposed that we study their
we saw many inverted Buddhist symbols. But when they understood that we were in sympathy with Buddhism, their attitude entirely changed. You books and
visit
their
temples, where
can understand our astonishment in finding such things in a so-called
Buddhist country.
As
said,
I
well-to-do and are very self-assertive.
Tibetans told us that
now Bon-po
is
they are numerous and
It is
not a secret sect and
again increasing.
Not only
have these people an invented Buddha but they have mysterious deities of Swastika.
This
recalls
the prehistoric
fire-worship of the Druids
times, the
primitive religion
which has here been corrupted
the incomprehensibly strange deities of Swastika.
sacred word,
Aum,
they use the
word “A.”
teaching the same expression, “A,”
[373
]
is
of
into
Instead of the
In the old occult
used for Materia Matrix.
ALTAI-HIMALAYA would be
It
interesting to study the origins of Bon-po, as perhaps
something of the Druid and old fire-worship would be found.
why
inexplicable
It is
Dzongs
the Dzong-pons,
officials
show themselves from
(fortresses),
The people tell dark tales. The ruins of old Tibet
the most ugly side.
These ancient towers
are interesting:
and walls were molded by an aspiring type builders
knew
about Gessar
bhala.
Here
also
now
But I
there
is
Khan and
And
nothing
We
about the Ruler of Sham-
who
of this.
left
“Tchud”
penetrated
all
—tombs
on
Europe with
we meet
here in the Trans-Himalayas
tombs.
Their
of people.
were the Ashrams of the great Mahatmas.
recall the stones of the
passed the Goths
of Tibetan
their influence.
the very
same ancient
which carry
find places of ancient shrines
thoughts to the sun-cults of the Druids.
There
Altai.
The swords
one’s
of the
northern inhabitants of the Trans-Himalayas might have been taken out of the Goth graves on the South Russian steppes. fibulae of
Gothic burials
called
the
—do they not remind you of the buckles
And why was
of Tibetan tribes.
Gotha according
name
the
site
of Lhasa
And whence Whence, where and how did the
Goths migrate, driven out by
the severe moraines?
In the crystallized daily
ern Tibetans are there not found the ancient parted brothers?
Another would an
It is fit
Italian corsair.
some time ago
to missionary chronicles?
of the tribe Gotl?
forefathers of the
The
glaciers
life
traits
and by
of the northof their de-
astonishing; one Hor-pa resembles Moliere.
the type of d’Artagnan.
The
The
third, resembles
fourth, with long strands of hair,
distortion of a portrait of Hals or Palamedes;
and somber one, with an aquiline nose,
is
is
a
and that black
he not the executioner
of Philip the Second?
And
finally in the district of
we found
Doring (meaning the Long Stone)
a real field of menhirs such as in Karnak. [
374
]
During the
TIBET two marches which followed we found three more small groups
me
For
of menhirs.
was
it
a great joy to see this indubitable sign
of Druidic antiquity. •
•
“Ki-hoho” rings out the
are mutually
warned about
•
from the camp of Goloks.
call
And
he” answers our camp.
•
•
“Hoi-
whole night the enemies
so the
the incessant vigilance of our camp.
But of course the Goloks are already informed about our arms
and have taken well
The
capacity.
into consideration the extent of our military
was
verdict
our favor, and to-day
in
we
shall see
the friendly faces of the dangerous nomads.
The
dawn
frost at
is
As
cruel.
In the morning the doctor’s cognac
what doctor
a frost is
is,
it
when
and Raya
P.
K.
—or
is
as
Tibetans
One
frozen.
can imagine
The
predicted for Ochir.
is
Celsius.
health of
Ludmilla
them, Milla and Raiya
call
The
wine becomes frozen.
and expects danger.
Death
bad.
is
the strong
pessimistic as before
N. V. and
below 70 degrees
usual,
—keep
well. •
What
tiresome
hills are
•
•
•
•
mountains have long since crumbled and bles
and stones
are eroding.
There
is
the heaps of peb;
only
distasteful to the horses.
were told that on reaching Central Tibet we would be aston-
ished by the change of nature.
up
now
not a bush nor a tree
high mounds with thorny prickly grass
We
The
between Chunargan and Nagchu.
to the very
Himalayas we
crumbled mountains.
from
scurvy.
The muscles
are lax.
pinch of dirty tsampa do not is
shall
Poor Hor-pa.
than thirteen-year-old Raya.
measurable
But others smile and say that
go through
Their teeth are falling out
They have
Of course make for
lean
375
]
less
strength
raw meat and
health.
their suspicion of each other! [
a cemetery of
And how
They do not
a
im-
trust;
ALTAI-HIMALAYA they are afraid; they constantly anticipate
Mongols, in
Dunganese
spite of the sly
men compared
of misfortune.
all sort
officials,
are veritable free-
with Tibetans.
The Black Faith of Bon-po is so in keeping with the tents. Upon long ropes, like deadly spiders, the tents gleam Next
in a formless mass.
them
to
The dryness of the air lessens the The piercing wind scatters the dry
smell of decomposi-
ill
We
bones.
recall the
How
widely announced safe-passage of the Donyer of Urga.
remarkably different per about uprisings.
is
Tibet
.
.
no trouble
is
lives in the village,
ant discussions; and
then one
may
be sure of unpleas-
prepared, in spite
is
sent long since.
It
are animals are far off,
and
Finally
listen to
appears that villages where there
It
it
it
will take several days to gather
appears that as usual the peasants
Dzong-pon and
refuse to fulfill his order.
Sometimes the Dzong-pon suggests that we conduct tions directly
with the peasants and write our
own
And
villages
with our
we
have to stay near the
will
also
seal.
the seal
Dzong
for
happens that one Elder suggests
ruly one.
us to bind
He
appears
were not received; that by mistake they were
sent in another direction.
simply do not
in procuring animals.
Nothing
which were
of several da-yig-\txx.trs,
yaks and horses.
we camp
If
one gets into a dzong or monastery he
if
should be prepared for a delay.
that the da-yigs
and whis-
talk
same thing happens:
the
in the usual village, there
Elder
They
at a distance.
.
At each encampment If the
black
are black spots: refuse or
corpses. tion.
black
deliver
him
must be
many
letter to the
red.
days.
negotia-
It
Otherwise
sometimes
to us to arrest another
himself leads us to the
him and
own
all
latter’s
to Lhasa.
un-
camp and advises Our Torguts have
sometimes bound the hands of the Elder tightly behind
his
back;
then his relations come with tongues sticking out and agree to [
376
]
TIBET
KHAM,
SHARUGEN
TIBET the order of the Dalai
fulfill
Or
Lama.
it
may happen
that the
governor suggests to us to arrest the local Major and to take
him bound
At such
to Lhasa.
Major lowers
his tone
a possible
and becomes more
turn of affairs the
civil.
One
Before Saga-dzong are two unexpected passes.
is
shown
on the maps; but the other, a larger one of more than 20,000 feet, is
not indicated.
This road
shown on
is
the
maps only by
Evidently no one ever traversed
a faint outline.
There
it.
is
But the Tibetan government
the other customary southern road.
sends us through this unexplored northern path.
On
the
way
the Elders refuse to give us animals and again,
instead of the passport of the governors, they ask us to send a letter
with our
For our wax
everywhere.
seal
seal
makes
a greater
impression.
From
the crest of the pass a powerful white chain of
This
giants has appeared.
is
snowy
already Nepal and the long-awaited
Himalayas, on the other side of the Brahmaputra.
Saga-dzong
is
corpses of animals
The mendangs The camp
is
They
eat the
and they mix tiny pebbles with the
barley.
also a small impoverished village.
are defiled by fallen dogs
full
and
We
of excitement.
its
Manasaravar, Lake of the Great Nagi.
There
pilgrims go, realizing on
Already
files
what
is
of refuse.
are approaching
Brahmaputra, the very one which has
Rig-vedas originated; there one
all sorts
the
source in the sacred is
where the wise
near the sacred Kailas; there,
a noble
highway
lie
of pilgrims are encountered; they are
these
sites.
gloomy and
ragged, and carry spears.
Amidst rocks and sand, In
May
the water
is
the banks shows to
lilac
and purple,
lies
not yet completely risen.
what extent the [377
]
the Brahmaputra.
The water
river rises in
line
on
June with the
ALTAI-HIM ALA Y A snow thaw and
There
still
greater reverence for the
for the Blue River.
The Blue Yangtse-Kyang
rains.
Brahmaputra than
is
the longest river in the world but the Brahmaputra, son of
is
Brahma,
is
enveloped by a rich frame-work of legends.
the sacred bed of the
Ganges with the Himalayas;
var
and the source of the Great Indus.
close to Sutlej
is
also
links
for Manasara-
There
was born Aryavarta.
A and
It
Mongolian lama scientific
garment.
a
But he always walked
Geshe.
Once
“There lived
says:
the Geshe
went
remarkably versed in the
most modest former
to visit his teacher, the
The vain courtiers of the abbot saw the humble visitor and sent him away. And again came the Geshe and again he was evicted. Then the Geshe went to a merchant in a bazaar and asked him to lend him a rich garment abbot of a big Labrang.
and the Geshe put into like
nuggets of Chinese
his girdle several stones
all
from out the
together in a corner.
garment; and only
after did
is
true,”
bow
I
and the
to his teacher. If so,
why do you
my
teacher, “but
garment ?”
could not reach you, and therefore
which brought me
Near the Brahmaputra the rocks of Chatu-gompa.
to
are
once
and put them
to the stones
not your teacher? the
at
entered, took off his
answered the Geshe that you are
without these things to that
he
way he was
girdle the stones,
Then he bowed
The other asked, “Am I bow first to the stones and “It
in this
The Geshe
permitted to see his teacher. rich garment, took
And
silver.
which looked
my
bow
reverenced master.”
five
Two
I
monasteries leaning against
of
them
and three of Bon-po of the Black Faith.
are of the
The
Red
Sect,
monasteries of the
Black Faith look far newer and cleaner than those of the Red Sect.
Out
of the
windows
of a big
Dukang
or
Red Monastery,
straw sticks out; several lamas of hopelessly dilapidated appear-
[378
]
BRAHMAPUTRA
THE
ON
GOMPA
CHATU
TIBET ance sadly
The Black
about.
stroll
we sympathize with Buddhism,
on learning that
Believers,
ask us not even to approach
their monasteries.
With astonishment we look
We
of Tibet in circulation.
dzongs nor
government
saw neither
is
how
poor, yet
is
only copper coin
nor gold in the
silver
Although the minting of the small
in popular use.
copper coins
at the sho, the
grandiose
is
the inscription:
victorious in all directions.”
astonishing that
It is
the half-r^o and the quarter-iAo are bigger than the sho
Now
There
horse on the prow.
current
is
It is
Although Tingri-dzong a
a small boat, a ferry, with a carved
is
especially difficult to load the camels.
pretty swift. •
has
itself.
comes our crossing through the Brahmaputra near the
monastery Schi-tu.
The
“The
pitiful
toylike
•
•
•
•
regarded as a strong fortress
is
it
which perhaps had importance
aspect,
previous to the invention of gunpowder.
There
is
no monastery
but only suburgans of the Red Sects with fearful images and
Red
stripes as signs of their allegiance to the
the
same
see
upon them?
fearful images
We
recall
What can one not human skins, fearful
on Tantrik tankas.
Magic swords,
images with projecting
Sect.
teeth,
flayed
and inverted
triangles.
The
entire
synthesis of Black Magic.
Near Tingri-dzong Mount Everest looms up mering beauty.
We
meet people
who knew Sven
Hedin.
regret that he could not speak Tibetan.
about Filchner.
Some
that he left three boys
in all
its
glim-
They praise him and They have heard here
legends are already invented to the effect
on the Blue River, [
379
]
as well as a
mouse, a
— ALTAI-HIMALAYA How
weasel and prairie dog.
had we not known the language our been immensely
difficult.
of the language
is
of the
was
latter
way he conducted
Here
is
work would have
entire
fortunate that George’s knowledge
called “the officer of peace,” because
his negotiations.
the old monastery Chung-tu,
royal monastery Saskya.
Here
ancient walls.
its
Evidently
which belongs
much
has transpired within
And
here are crumbled
Chinese walls, memories of conquered Tibet. of ancient Suburgans
Here
ful age.
and new by-ways and
Another ancient place: Shekar-dzong. eagles, they
rocks
mount
to
ages and temples. valley.
below.
The
The
When
a long
structures.
the Tibetans
stronghold-sanctuaries
is
But
a
upon
the
sharp
wealth of decoration on towers, pass-
now
Tibetans have descended to the
chieftains are afraid to live in the castles
Only from
is
were not afraid of soaring up to the steep
their
There
promontories.
Here
—remembrances of the time of a peace-
are amassed old
were bold
to the
an umbrella above a large suburgan
is
the sign of former royal distinction.
file
course,
considered by the Tibetans second only to Sir
The
Charles Bell.
It is
Of
does this originate?
afar are the old
and huddle
dzongs of Tibet
attractive.
prices for products are high to the point of absurdity.
A
sack of twenty-nine pounds of poor grain, of which five pounds are stones, costs eleven norsangs
dzongs.
A
A little piece
horse, for
two
which
of barley sugar
is
is
about nine rupees in the
about four or five rupees.
days’ travel, eight rupees ;
and a pack-yak, four
rupees.
Our marches short, not
they
are not of even length.
Either they are very
exceeding four hours on horseback.
last for
nine hours almost
Kampa-dzong, the
last
at a trot.
dzong before [380]
We
Or, suddenly, hasten toward
the border of Sikhim.
But
,
uschm
]\T
Rocnch
A SKY
A S NEAR
MONASTERY
ROYAL
Rocvich
icholos
CHUNGTU
N by
painting
a From
TIBET where
is
For
the castle?
long time
a
bulky mass on the distant rock is
placed so high that
chief of the castle,
is
it
we
as a castle.
to recognize the
fail
Really this structure
Dzong
merges into the rock.
a trifle
more
friendly than the others.
Far higher than the dzong on the opposite rocks tery, in
which now only eight lamas remain.
monastery
is
Mahatmas.”
pen, the
monas-
a
is
But in
this very
the courtyard mentioned in the “Letters of the
There was the school mentioned by the Mahatmas,
now this school does not exist. But the old people still remember that here was a “religious school.” And they remember but
the “tall Azaras”
The
We The
last
crossing
India.
— Sepo-la.
pass the turquoise lake, torrents begin as
travel, seethe
the
from
first
This pass
where the
is
river
easier
than the others.
Lachen has
modest streams which,
and become impassable without
after
two days Here
a bridge.
aroma of the healing Balu, and the
first
source.
its
low
of is
cedars.
Before us are whole forests of rhododendrons in bloom.
Khardong La, Karaul Devan, Sasser Pass, Dabsang Pass, Karakorum Pass, Suget Pass, Sanju Pass, Urtu Kashkariin Daban, Ulan Daban, Chahariin Daban, Khentu Pass, Naiji La, Kukushili Pass, Dungbudra Pass, Tang La, Kamrong La, TaZoji La,
sang La, Lamsi Pass, Naptra La, Tamaker Pass, Shentsa Pass,
Lam
Pong chen La, Dong La, Sang mo La, Kyegong La, Tsug chung La, Gya La, Urang La, Sharu La, Galung La, Sepo La; these are the thirtyLaptse nagri Pass, Tsag La,
five passes,
Of
all
ling Pass,
each from 14,000 to 21,000 feet high, which are crossed.
our camels, two crossed the Himalayas.
One
is
Bulugun (northern Mongolia), the other from Tsaidam. will be the first to reach
present
them
to the
Gangtok, the
capital of
Maharajah of Sikhim.
[381]
Sikhim.
Along
from
They
We will
the entire
ALTAI-HIMALAYA way from Nagchu
to
Gangtok
the camels attract crowds of curi-
ous onlookers because these “animals” have never been seen here.
From Lhasa
known.
to Calcutta, camels are not
a house already awaited us: a
magazines of 1927.
In Thangu,
dak-bungalow and even forgotten
For more than
a year
we
existed entirely
without news of the outer world.
The
patterned streams. pass
all
whole symphony
For several days we descend.
species of the vegetable world.
and near the
warm
A
fairy tale of the waterfalls!
black spots.
All already
two
river pass
is
They
Finally,
in the
is
Nearby we palms appear
leopards, vividly yellow with thick
appear, greet us cordially and go away.
seen: the black-and-white bears of Chang-thang,
antelopes and argali, the stonelike rams with curved horns ; finally the well-decked leopards. •
A
modest Finnish mission
is
among
self-exiled in solitude
avalanches which threaten
•
•
•
all
•
Kind Miss Kronquist,
in La-chen.
the rocks, relates tales about the
Sikhim.
Is it
possible that
on the
southern side of the Himalayas continues the same deadening process
which has crumbled the peaks
Chang-thang?
In-
Lachen which sprang up
spired by the noise of the current of
and became stronger under our very
of
eyes,
we
recall
Imatra and
Finland and the sympathetic Relander and Aksel Gallen-Kallela.
Here
are the
We
same blue
make our
distances as in Finland.
final calculations
American equipment withstood crossed all
from America
regarding the caravan.
all
for four years
trials.
The
The remaining
Belber trunks
through entire Asia, through
The
tents
from
Gangtok was
easy.
The
fordings and passes without any damage.
Abercrombie and Fitch
The
also withstood all gales.
part of the
way
to
hospitable house of the British Resident, Colonel Bailey, greets us.
[382]
TIBET
We
tell
about our
trip.
The
America
letters to
We
are given a trustworthy sardar to Darjeeling.
the entire
way from Gangtok
make
shall
But we will have
one day.
in
We
are sent off.
to
change automobiles three times, because on the Tista the bridge
was recently washed away and
means three automobiles and
—a steep ascent from Tista It is
through Peshok.
Our
where they
China, one to
to
all
the expedition material.
George, the Doctor, V., and P. K.
take a long time.
—one
fellow-travelers will quickly
Italy,
one
Every-
to Australia.
will recall the inexpressible beauty of the Himalayas.
Our way led from the Himalayas, and back is Karakorum and the icy kingdom of Sasser. Lun.
Fantastic
sweep
is
is
But
T’ian Shan
Decorative
Altai.
Dakchin.
It
ten miles on horseback in one day
are also preparing their notes. scatter
necessary to change.
is
necessary to collect and compile
may
This
it
all
—
is
celestial
Nan
to
them.
Beautiful
is
Kwen
Broad
mountains.
shang.
Majestic
Austere
is
in
Angar
these are only the preface to the unutterable
grandeur of the Himalayas. In the Himalayas was crystallized the great Vedanta.
Himalayas Buddha became exalted the
Himalayas
is
with
penetrated
in spirit.
The
spiritual
tension
very
In the air
—the
of
true
Maitreya Sanga. •
Our
•
•
friend in Sikhim, the lama,
•
tells
•
us that during the winter
he had heard that large detachments of cavalry were standing before
Nagchu; such information caused
a great deal of anxiety.
This proved to be only one of the rumors current about ourselves.
During
these years
rumor made me
American King,” “Commander of
all
Buddhists.”
I
“French and
a
of a Russian Corps,”
succeeded in dying twice.
I
succeeded in
being simultaneously in Siberia, America and Tibet.
[383]
and “King According
ALTAI-HIMALAYA to the
words of Mongols of Tsaidam
Amban of
And
of Sining.
Khotan
I
carried
on
war with
a
the
according to the words of the Taotai
brought a small cannon which would, in ten min-
I
utes, destroy entire
came accustomed
Khotan and
The Mongols
by “authentic” rumors.
kind of warrior.
remember
firmly
American has been
the
We
be-
and now are no longer astonished
to all this
“Ameri Khan”: Thus
100,000 inhabitants.
its
the
visualized as
a
Fairy tales about ourselves from Lhasa were
which we could only
related to us, in
identify ourselves with
difficulty.
It is
wondrous and strange
where the Mahatmas
Them. Two Ashrams
far
through the same places
Here was the school founded by from Saga-dzong there was one of the
passed.
days’ travel
—not
to pass
from the Brahmaputra.
Here the Mahatma
stopped, hastening on an undeferrable mission.
Now when
the modest blue tent. existence of the silent
here stood
Europe argues about the
Mahatmas, when the Hindus are
Them, many
about
And
significantly
people in the expanses of Asia not
know the Mahatmas, not only have seen Them, but know many actual evidences of Their deeds and appearances. Always
only
Mahatmas unexpectedly
awaited, the
a great special existence. fested themselves.
When
And when
ably as ordinary travelers.
it
created in the spaces of Asia
was
necessary,
necessary,
They
They do not
They mani-
passed unnotice-
write Their
Names
upon the stones, but the hearts of those who know, guard These Names, stronger than the rocks. Why suspect a fairy tale, imagination, invention, when in living forms the knowledge of the
Mahatmas In haste,
is
impressed?
moved by
idle
curiosity,
even a simple chemical experiment.
you will not understand Will those,
who
in futile
conversation discuss the question of Mahatmas, achieve anything?
Will their empty curiosity be satisfied?
[384]
How many
people there
TIBET are
who would
But would
love to receive a
change
it
of astonishment
from the Mahatmas!
letter
their lives?
It
would provide
moment
a
and confusion and then again everything would
return to the old routine, leaving no trace.
Often we are astonished
why
people
who know
are so widely different in their social positions.
Boehme
a
Are the dimensions
shoemaker?
hatmas and literature
which
do not know
The
their
Ma-
of the
the pupils, are related in a
to
not nearly as limited as
average scientist talks about scientists
who
William Crooks or Vivekananda,
so.
of consciousness
it
seems to those
who
it.
These are the Sir
is
instructions
why was
But
The works
measured only by outward distinctions?
Mahatmas
the
Sir
who was
Mahatmas
as
pure
illusion.
have never seen Mahatmas. Oliver
But
Lodge would not speak
always upholding the rationalism
knew Mahatmas. Many Hindus know Them. safeguard Their Names to such an extent that they
of observation,
But they
are even ready to
deny Their existence
in order not to betray,
not to reveal.
Not to betray! What a charm Guru in the steps of ascent. But
many
are
knocking
they do not acknowledge
them about
it.
at the it,
How many
is
in this
understanding of the
doors of the great science.
even are angered
if
own way.
And how
many
find disillusionment because they
wrong
in his
sin-
try to find
Everybody knocks
them
want
They
Guru!
a real teacher.
of
some one asks
of the younger generation
cerely to start correspondence with a
Often
knock
at the
door, or they lacked sufficient energy and necessary deter-
mination to receive a true answer.
“What nical
tory
laboratory could analyze those
methods of knowledge?”
who
Yes, verily,
where labor and perseverance and [385
]
it
approach the tech-
must be
a labora-
fearlessness are the keys
ALTAI-HIMALAYA In a sound rationalism, in a true and fearless ma-
to the gates.
grow
terialism
We
the wings of
are not to be isolated
—such
transform
them
gested by
They speak
life is
life,
of those victories of labor
for long
Mahatmas
recollections is
Lama
real,
and
per-
which
possibilities,
are
are not sectarians or hypo-
do they go into the mountains
know something
of Tibet they
tion
Everything sug-
without superstition, without prejudice.
themselves by the emanations of prana.
some
which
the contrary they are most vital people; they conquer
Not
life.
the
one toward the
direct
into a constant festival.
true followers of the
On
They
They speak about
not ephemeral and illusory, but
suggested to us by
in
—not destructive, but creative
most all-embracing study of
tains to the
crites.
life
foundations of existence.
conquest of energy.
The
from
the teaching of the Mahatmas.
is
scientific
shall
the wings of consciousness.
spirit,
to purify
In the darkest places
about the Mahatmas, they have
and legends.
But for the
moment
their atten-
directed to the prophecies about the return of the Tashi in his full glory.
Despite
the straight road
all,
the Himalayas
Tsaidam
in a
—
crossed:
is
new
first
—Mongolia, on the
direction, then
Tsaidam, Tibet and
trail
of Ja lama; then in
through the dzongs of Tibet
to
the mountain passes of the “abodes of snows.”
There Tibet.
something of predestination
is
The wheel
Tibet has none to ness of
its
the dying of old
The mystery is gone. guard; and none guards Tibet. The exclusiveof the law
is
turned.
position as guardian of
to Tibet.
in
Buddhism no longer belongs
Because Buddhism, according to the
the Blessed One, becomes a universal possession.
need of superstition for the deep teaching.
Commands
of
There
no
is
Prejudices are inimical
to the search for truth.
The
first
image of the Blessed One was received by Tibet
from Nepal and China
—received [386]
only in the seventh century,
TIBET more than one thousand taught;
received
years after the Blessed
literature of the followers
The
lected.
of
India
in
Buddhism had been
image was received only
first
Viharas, before which the brothers,
when
time
the
after
were rising
Dukang
in all
One
after
lived
the
and
brilliant
already colthe beautiful
of Tibet stand as poor younger
Now, when
parts of Asia.
there
begins to be concern about the revival of true Buddhism, this
wave
passes
by Tibet.
Let us consider the Black Magic of Tibet. revived
Rolang-resurrection
celebrated
the
corpses,
nothing but a crude form of vampirism. dering
spirits
who
kill
and do
often the spirits of lamas.
manner
all
Let us
evil
temporarily
fall into
recall the
—which
of evil;
and they are
recall all sorts of obsessions,
actual insanity.
Let us recall
changed and evil
conjura-
and invocations with which the lamas arm themselves
frighten the ignorant people.
is
Let us recall the wan-
influences, people are completely
how, under
tions
Let us
Let us
recall the suicidal
to
magic
daggers, dark fortune-telling, spells, were-wolves, entities which
have assumed the appearance of animals; and tions of an evil will.
First of
all,
do not give very good evidence
all
kinds of inven-
such dark practices of lamas Second,
of their uprightness.
the sorcerers of the Coast of Malabar perform the entire black
necromancy much more powerfully.
They
are
known,
feared,
but no one worships them and they are not regarded as sacred personages.
Many
Malabar “miracles” antedate Tibetan magic.
authors
who
have written about Tibet have called
the miracle of miracles.
Tibet or
is
due
to the
But
Mahatmas
such a school has not existed. possess
the
power
to
could refer only to old
misconception of those writers,
been hypnotized by tradition. school founded by
this title
who
Truly, one could rightly a miracle.
Now
it
have
call
a
But for many years
individual Tibetan lamas
produce low forms of materialization,
[387]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA and clairaudience.
levitation, manifestations of will, clairvoyance It is
the greatest test of the lamas
when
if
they doubt about you,
you demand of them, “Ask your oracle what
what
present and
intention
Then
have.”
I
at
I
am
thinking
at
once they become
confused.
mountains some astonishing manifestations actually
In the
occur, but they have nothing to
do with the lamas.
which was
the incident of the remarkable fire in our tent,
peated in Chang-thang.
We
cruel frosts. ergies.
where It
Truly
it
recall
We
many
remarkable
is
until recently there
would be absurd
The lamas
again
to
Much
of heat amidst the
just to pass
through those places
were Ashrams.
may become
of that
wave
re-
manifestations of the higher en-
condemn
And
government may appear. erate.
recall the
We recollect
the entire population of Tibet.
Again an enlightened
educated.
people again
which appears
may become
regen-
to us as fallen “has not as yet
risen.”
In the teaching of the Blessed tions about the
whole routine of
life.
now
who
and apply them. teaching,
One
But
must understand
demned and cannot
those
there are practical indicaIt is
very easy to
know
have desecrated the high
that their criminal actions are con-
continue. •
•
•
•
•
Tibet bids us farewell with sad news.
Our
three Torguts,
Ochir, Dorje and Manji, forty miles from Gyantse, were attacked
by Tibetans.
Two
They were robbed
Torguts were killed and the third wounded. of their
a well-born Tibetan says,
money and
possessions.
Hearing
“Formerly the bandits were
north of Tibet, but they infest the entire country now.”
speak the good Tibetans with hopeless gestures.
in
this,
the
Thus
And how many
decent Tibetans and learned lamas must suffer because of the present conditions.
There was another
story that our
[388]
Mongols reached Lhasa, but
— TIBET there they were seized
and thrown into the Tibetan
how, our poor Torguts experienced
Any-
jail.
trouble.
Another rumor: Poor Tzering, our Mongol, has suffered
On
greatly.
now
is
dream chok
way from Nagchu
the
begging
of leaving Tibet.
back from Nagchu
Our Buryat lamas already Lama, Lama Tashi and Kon-
Lhasa bazaar.
in the
Jangin,
home
safely reached
in Sharagolchi, because they returned
at once.
The Tibetans who have come the year of the dragon. The past and
Sikhim
to
Will
return to Tibet before three years.”
of remaining in
With him
Tashi
to the prophecy, the
are overtaken by our
“Now
say:
comes
year was the year of the tiger
after that will be the year of the sheep.
— then?” “According
We
Lhasa he was robbed and
to
— Much
it
not be easier
Lama
will not
being rumored.
is
lama from Kharching.
He
thought
Lhasa ten years but stayed only three months.
three other learned lamas
from Tashi lhunpo
are
traveling.
News from Sikhim. The monastery in Ghum is growing. Some new structures are being added. The walls are covered with frescoes. The monasteries in Kalimpong and Kurseong are also improving.
Geshe Rinpoche
Ghum
erects
images of Maitreya.
artist,
Geshe Lhariba, from Kham,
In
is
He
helping everywhere.
is
is
the
Our
same abbot.
working
as before.
All
is
friendly and good.
I
experiences?”
Truly
condemn
v/hat
that the Tashi
Lama
shall
he is
“How
have been asked,
who heard.
is
is
I
shall
shall
you speak of Tibet
praise
what
is
obscured in darkness.
full I
after
of light
your
and
shall not forget
has aroused general reverence for himself
whom
only good
Everywhere the Tibetans themselves say of
their coun-
the spiritual ruler of Tibet and of
[389]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA try,
“The customs
And
different.”
prophecy about
of
Panchen Rinpoche (Tashi Lama) were
far
they await with eagerness the fulfilment of the
when he
his return
will be the sole
head of the
Tibet and the true Teaching will again flourish.
Truly, one has
Lama were now
in Tibet again,
the feeling that
things
would be
Thus we
dom —of
the Tashi
if
different!
two Tibets: One
distinguish
those
whom
of
officials
who
and falsehood,
who
the Tibet of
official-
the Tibetans themselves assert
and harder than
that their hearts are blacker than coal
These are the ones
is
much
reflect so
and
desecrate art
stone.
prejudice and violence
petrify learning
with de-
generacy.
But we in
also discern another Tibet, even
numbers.
This
the Tibet of the
of an even smaller
is
number
though
it
is
smaller
few educated lamas and
of enlightened laymen.
This
is
the
Tibet which guards the essence of the Teaching and aspires
towards enlightenment. It is
is
the Tibet of
of course not enigmatic
which Tibet
sciousness
It
is
spiritual leaders.
closer to our con-
—the enlightened ones we value, and may the obscured
and corrupt ones disappear In
its
in their
own
darkness!
from America, friends have expressed
letters
their regret
that the actions of Tibet have urged the necessity of such strong criticisms.
But Truth
be far-sighted.
is
not blindness; on the contrary
it
Moreover, a small and valuable minority
yet produce greater results than the dying,
The Himalayas and Sikhim
must
may
decomposed majority.
enclose Tibet.
Nowhere
is
there
such glimmer, such spiritual satiety as amidst these precious snows.
Nowhere
speech of Sikhim
Man-heroes;
is
there such qualifying expressions as in the
—to
everything
women-heroes
fall-heroes; eagle-heroes.
;
is
added the word “heroism.”
rock-heroes;
Here
to
trees-heroes ;
water-
Sikhim came great hermits
because where could one, in two days’ travel, ascend from tropical
[390
]
SHIGATSE)
(NEAR
DZONG
SHEKAR
TIBET up
to eternal"
here revealed.
Friendly
vegetation
Friendly
of Sikhim.
And
again
of mystery
by
alive
the
Maharajah
is
Laden La.
This
considered a remarkable place
is
And
the fine old abbot of Tashi-
but has aged and does not descend from his
And
Again the Hindu
know
is
Friendly
the Resident.
is
treasures.
sacred mountain.
self, if I
Friendly
traverse the sacred valley of Tashi ding, as a trove
and
still
is
All grades of consciousness are
Sikhim.
is
Sikhim and Bhutan.
all
ding
we
snow.
again the proximity of great India.
“How may
sings:
I
speak of the creator him-
the incomparable, inexpressible beauty of
Hima-
layas ?”
It
is
itself:
told in the prophecies
shall flow.
They
And
new
the
era shall manifest
an unprecedented war of
“First will begin
Afterward brother
how
Oceans of blood
shall rise against brother.
the people shall cease to understand one another.
meaning of
shall forget the
the word, Teacher.
then shall the Teachers appear and in
the people be drawn, but those
are filled
and ignorance
As
diamond glows
heard the true teaching.
shall set obstacles.
a
this
on the tower of the Lord of Shambhala. is
worth more than
word
One
just
of truth shall
with darkness
stone
the light
on
his ring
Even those who
the world’s treasure.
all
But
corners of the world
all
To who
shall be
nations.
all
by accident help the Teachings of Shambhala will receive in return a hundredfold.
Already
Only
of truth are reincarnated.
many
warriors of the teaching
few years
a
shall elapse before
every one shall hear the mighty steps of the Lord of the
And
New
era.
one can already perceive unusual manifestations and en-
counter unusual people.
edge and ripened
Already they open the gates of knowl-
fruits
Lama Rinpoche knows junga, there
lies
a cave.
are falling
that
from the
on the north
Very narrow [39i
]
is
trees.”
side of
Kinchen-
the entrance to
it,
ALTAI-HIMALAYA but
it
broadens and brings one into a whole
knows many
priest
things,
The
the appointed time.
He
possesses
he
talks of the
some
“How were
I.
When we
emerging from
were freezing
How
for her!
is
it
a trance
at
Chang-thang
she
is
So we
suffering!”
Using the old custom of the high lamas, Geshe
down
lie
profound.
is
he unexpectedly said to those near him:
ill,
later told.
does not
if
until
most unexpected actions and persons who are
was
difficult
As
them
to speak of
consciousness of Geshe
clairvoyance.
at a great distance.
and E.
and asks not
The high
city.
Geshe
to sleep but rests in a seated posture.
knows about Shambhala and
its
He
complete significance.
takes
care to revive the teachings.
One more image
of Shambhala, the
who know some
will reveal to those
top
is
Yi-dam
that Tashi
Lama who
center
is
a
is
The
The new his
own
snow mountains
is
distortedly; but It is especially
all
in the pre-
on the great
is
awaited.
field of life.
Each reaches in
nearer, one further; one beautifully, one
are concerned with the
same predestined.
striking to see such consciousness at a time
not the printed page, but sound the loft expectation.
The Motherland
dis-
the powerful legion leading victorious
era of enlightenment
One
One can
edifices.
Whose Light glows
victory of the spirit
way.
In the
though they were the plans of towers.
Himself,
Below
destined time. battle.
He
the
wrote the very secret book the Path of
can recognize three white borders.
plans, as
the tower
On
elemental power, and a figure of
seeming valley with many
two
tinguish
On
You
a circle.
Shambhala
of
hints of reality.
In the center of the image the
Shambhala.
form
as the sign of
Mandala
It
is
of Gessar
itself
—the human word—directs
so precious to hear
Khan, Ladak, knows
of the regeneration has come. [
when
and
to repeat.
that the time
Khotan remembers the Signs of 392
]
TIBET The Kalmucks
Maitreya over the ancient Stupa.
in
Karashar are
awaiting the coming manifestation of the Chalice of Buddha.
On
Shamanism and are singing new Awaited White Burkhan. The Messenger of the
Altai the Oyrots renounce
chants to the
White Burkhan,
already
Oirot,
throughout the world.
rides
The Mongols await the appearance of the Ruler of the World and prepare the Dukang of Shambhala. On Chang-thang they extol Gessar
Khan and whisper
Shambhala.
On
the
Brahmaputra they know about the Ashrams
Mahatmas and remember
of
await the Messiah
about the hallowed borders of
the wonderful Azaras.
The Moslems
at the Bridge.
In Isfahan the White Horse
is
The Jews
await Muntazar.
The
already saddled.
Christians
Thomas await the great Advent and wear hidden signs. The Hindus know the Kalki Avatar. And the Chinese at New of Saint
Year
light the fires before the
the World.
image of Gessar Khan,
Rigden Japo, the Ruler,
A
achieving his predestined path.
no exaggeration
there
Is
ruler of
fleeting over the desert,
is
blind one
may
ask, “Is
it
so?
Perhaps some fragments of sur-
in it?
vivals are taken as beliefs of the future.” It
If
means
that he
who
questions has never been in the East.
you once were upon these
sands of miles;
you
know
why, of
if
sites; if
you traversed many thou-
you yourself have spoken
what
the reality of
is
related.
these sacred matters, one speaks only in the stillness of
the evening, in quiet penetrating tones.
do
all
many people, then You shall understand to
become
silent?
But
if
you say
Why, to
if
some one
them
enters,
that they
may
continue the conversation in the presence of the guest your words will be
met with
a reverent
the silent significant
bow
bow.
And
it is
not you
who
receives
but the Great Maitreya Himself.
[393
1
GLOSSARY Part
I
Lan\a The ancient name of Ceylon; described in the Hindu Epic of Ramayana as of great magnificence, the habitation of the demons. The Ramayana is the Epic poem of Rama and his war against the Rakshasas or demons and giants, when the monkeys, led by Hanuman, :
were
his allies.
Hinayana and Mahayana, the two Buddhist
The former
“Smaller Vehicle” and “Greater Vehicle.” the Southern Buddhists, the latter
is
Hanuman, Rama and Ravana:
who
Ravana, king of the demons
The
Iliad
may
of actions
two
epic,
in
his
war upon
has carried away Sita, Rama’s wife
A
great analogy between this
be seen.
Hindus.
revelations or scriptures of the
are divided into
Hanuman,
Characters of the Ramayana.
and thus precipitated the great war. Vedas:
the School of
the Northern School, but spread in
king of Monkeys, aids Rama, hero of the
and the
is
the
China and Japan.
Tibet, Mongolia,
epic
respectively
schools,
great parts
—the
exoteric,
The Vedic
writings
namely, the “division
and works” and “divisions of knowledge.”
In the latter
are included the Upanishads.
Mahabharata: The Great Epic of India, in which the Bhagarad Gita
is
incorporated.
Sahib: Master, in Hindustani.
Babu:
A
literate
man,
in Hindustani.
Hatha-Yoga: The lower form
means Stoc\zund: Stupas:
A A
Yoga
practices.
A man who
uses physical
for spiritual self-development.
A
small suburb near Stockholm.
monument,
conical in shape erected over the relics of
of Arhats, or other great
Kurgan:
of
men.
Turki word designating a burial mound
Tnmurti: The Trinity. preserver,
and Shiva,
In
Buddha,
in Russia.
modern conception Brahma,
destroyer.
creator;
In ancient tradition, Indra,
[395
]
Vishnu,
Agni and
ALTAI-HIMALAYA A
Surya, or Air, Fire and the Sun.
vast philosophy underlies this
symbolism.
A
Vedanta:
mystic system of philosophy developing from the efforts of
philosophers to interpret the Upanishads.
A
Advaita:
Vedanta non-dualist
sect.
Dalai-Lama: The secular ruler of Tibet, living
One
Sweeper:
in the Potala at Lhasa.
belonging to the Sudras, the untouchables, or lowest of the
four castes.
A
Sherpa:
Tibetan tribe of Nepal.
The
Kshatriya:
second of the four castes into which the Hindus were
originally divided.
Arya Samaj:
Kham and
A
modern
the warrior tribe.
is
theistic sect of India.
Golo\: Districts in Tibet.
The Buddha
Maitreya:
This
of the future,
who
incarnates in himself
all
the
hopes of the Buddhist world, from the island of Ceylon to the lamaseries of Siberia.
Lama:
Priest of the monasteries.
Shambhala: The country believed by Asia
coming King of the World and Atisha: Founder of a school of
to
be the dwelling of the
his cohorts.
Buddhism
in the eleventh century.
True
predecessor of Tsong-kha-pa, founder of the Yellow Sect, Tibet.
Milarepa: Tibetan poet-mystic (1038-1112 a.d.).
The Tibetan Orpheus.
Gopis: Shepherdesses, the devotees of Krishna.
Lei and Koupava: Mythical characters from the opera “Snowmaiden” by Rimsky-Korsakoff.
Characters from ancient Russian lore.
Shamans: Tartar or Mongolian priest-magicians of the old Bon
They
of Central Asia.
are found mostly in Siberia
religion
and the border-
lands.
Sadhu:
A
saintly
Mem-sahib:
man.
Madam
or mistress in Hindustani.
Lemuria: The continent which according
to the esoteric doctrines preceded
Atlantis.
Kaftans:
An
oriental coatlike garment.
Tao Te Ching: Indicating
“Book of
the Path; the
the Perfectibility of
Nature,” written by the great Chinese philosopher Lao-Tze.
Tao
is
the symbol of the Absolute, the Infinite.
Bhagavad
Gita:
The
Lord’s Song.
The Epic
of Krishna, one part of the
Mahabharata which contains the two great Epics of India. '
[396]
GLOSSARY Upanishads: Part of the Esoteric division of the Vedas. Nagis: Snakes, or snake-worshipers.
who made
Tashi-Lama: Religious head of Tibet
For the
lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.
Tara:
in the Tashi-
time in history he has
Tibet thus fulfilling ancient prophecies.
fled
Potala:
home
his
first
The The
Palace of the Dalai principal
The
Goddess-Mother.
Lama
in Lhasa.
deity
of
feminine
Buddhism.
Symbolizing
the
Merciful One, protector of mankind.
Puranas: Collection of cosmogonic writings supposed to have been com-
posed by Vyasa, author of the Mahabharata.
Vishnu: The Preserver, second personage of the Hindu Trimurti.
Chintamani: The Sacred Stone counted among the great Blessings of the world.
A
Arhat:
member
The hidden wisdom
Kabala:
was combined
It
who
of the Buddhist order
He
of the path toward Nirvana.
of the
is
attained the fourth stage
no more subject
Hebrew Rabbis
into a theology after the
to rebirth.
of the Middle Ages.
capture of the Jews by
Babylon.
The shawl worn by
Sari:
all
Hindu women.
Part Senge: Literally, Lion, a
title
II
Buddha.
of
Here, apparently, the
name
given to the ceremonial dances.
A
Polovtsi:
Tartar Tribe depicted in Borodin’s opera, “Prince Igor,” for
which Roerich has painted the Jenghis-Khan:
settings.
Mongol conqueror (1162-1227).
Great
Considered
the
greatest warrior of history.
Khalat:
The
Khati\:
A A
Rungit: l\on:
Wheel
garment worn by the Mongols. scarf,
given as a reverential offering.
river in Sikhim, a tributary of Tista.
The
religious paintings of Russia.
of Life:
spirit
Wheel
coatlike
ceremonial
A
symbol of the great cycle of
life,
the progress of the
or self through the lower nature.
of Eze\iel: Mystic symbol used by the Prophet Ezekiel.
Chandragupta Maurya: The of Asoka.
Began
Buddhist King of India.
first
his reign
about 322
Grandfather
b.c.
Sergius of Radonega: Most beloved saint of Russia, lived in fifteen century. [
397
]
:
:
:
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Bogdo-Khan: Religious head of the Mongolian Buddhists,
called “Living
Buddha.”
One
Khutu\htu
Om: A
of the highest ranks of
Lamas
in Mongolia.
holy invocation regarded as the most sacred
syllable.
Kinchenjunga: Sacred mountain in Sikhim.
who
Baber Descendant of Timur (Died in 1530
Dynasty.
T'antra:
invaded India and established the Mogul
a.d.)
practices in medieval
Books on mystical
Padma Sambhava Founder
Red
of the
Sect,
Hinduism.
one of the two great Tibetan
Sects.
Tsong-\ha-pa:
Founder
of the Yellow Sect, the second great sect.
Berendeys in “Snowmaiden”: Characters in Rimsky-Korsakoff’s opera.
Red Caps: Members of the sect founded by Padma Sambhava. Csoma de Koros: A Hungarian traveler and scholar, born 1790. Sengchen Lama: Incarnate Lama, high
priest of
Dong-ste monastery near
Gyantse.
Mendang: An
elevation of stone
on the
hilltops, usually facing east, afford-
ing a seat for meditating lamas.
Amrita: The drink of the gods
Rahu:
A demon who
Avalo\iteshvara: savior
and
The
—Elixir of Life.
amrita from the gods.
stole
greatest Bodhisattva of
deliverer.
Northern Buddhism.
The
Generally depicted many-armed and many-faced.
Pemayangtse, Dubdi, Tashi-ding, Sanga Choling, Doling: Monasteries in Sikhim.
Dharmapala: Protector of
King
of the
religion.
World: The Coming Ruler whose great avatar
is
now
expected
by Asia.
Garuda: The
bird, steed of
Vishnu.
Part
“Throne of Solomon”: Mountain
in
III
Kashmir.
Bon-po: Pre-Buddhist faith of Tibet, based on magic fehangir:
Mogul Emperor, son
rites.
of Akbar, the Great (1555-1605).
A\bar: The great Mogul Emperor of India, patron of sciences. [
398
]
religions, arts
and
:
GLOSSARY The
Asvagosha:
greatest Buddhist poet; probably flourished in the first cen-
tury A.D.
Aso\a: King of the Morya Dynasty.
Most zealous
in spreading
Buddhism.
Erected thousands of shrines and sent missionaries throughout the Eastern world. “ Sucre du Printemps”
Sacred Rites of Spring, by Igor Stravinsky and
Considered one of the greatest of modern composi-
Nicholas Roerich.
composed by collaborated
tions,
gave the
efforts of Stravinsky
based on an ancient spring
libretto
Shuya and Kolomna: Ancient Russian Kremlin: Central
and Roerich who
rite.
cities.
fortified section of ancient
Russian
cities,
comprising the
churches, palaces, monasteries and other buildings. Rostoff, Suzdal, Yaroslavl: Russian cities.
ban-designs: Designs of Persian origin.
Gandhara: The Greek period in Hindu
art.
Also the ancient province
near Peshawar.
Shah ]ehan: Son of Shah Jehangir.
Aurungzeb: Mogul Emperor, son of Jehan, reigned
at the
end of the seven-
teenth century.
Mahadeva: Great God,
title
Horus: Egyptian God,
last of
son of
Isis
The
Urceus:
and
of Shiva.
the divine sovereigns of Egypt, said to be
Osiris.
snake, sacred symbol.
cap of Osiris and other
Around
the disk of Osiris and
deities.
Se\meth: The war goddess of Egypt. Senusert:
One
of the Egyptian Pharaohs.
Djins: Elementals.
Nature
Valhalla: Odin’s hall.
The
spirits.
final
abode of fallen Norse heroes.
Fibula: Breast plate. ]alnil{:
Old Russian graveyard.
Hoopoe: Bird (Upupa epops). Burlaps: Russian boatsman.
Hookah:
A
pipe with a long flexible tube.
Setara: Stringed instrument.
Saazes: Kashmiri stringed instruments.
Turfan:
A
district in
Chinese Turkestan.
[399
]
on the
:
:
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Part IV Indra,
Agm,
Surya:
Kashyapa: Chief conversion
The
ancient Vedic Trimurti or Trinity.
priest of the Jatilas, sect of fire worshipers.
After his
Buddhist order.
his followers entered the
all
Rajagriha, Vaisali, Patna: Seats of Buddhist councils.
A
Alara Kalama
renowned sage who was
of
A
Brahmin Gautama Buddha.
UddaJ^a Ramaputta:
Uruvela:
A
site
ascetic
for a while
who was
near the forest in which
Buddha
for
Buddha’s teacher.
some
years the
Guru
spent six years of medi-
tation.
Ndiranjana: A
river in
which Buddha bathed
bodily suffering as a
means
to
after
renouncing the path of
knowledge.
The third of the Hindu castes. The ancient language of Magadha
Vaishas: Pali:
in
which the Buddhist
scriptures
are written.
Eusebius:
Known
as the Father of Ecclesiastical history.
Born probably
in
Palestine about 265.
Mithra:
An
ancient Persian deity, a sun-god.
Deeply connected with the
highest occultism, the tenets of which were expounded in the Mithraic mysteries.
Clement of Alexandria: Church father and voluminous writer living between the second and third centuries. Cyril of Alexandria:
century.
Nephew
of Theophilus of Alexandria during the fifth
Responsible for the murder of the girl philosopher, Hypatia.
Jerome: Church father, regarded as one of the most learned.
337 to 420 A.D. Origen: The most learned of
all
the
Church
fathers
and
all
Lived from
early Christian
Lived 185 to 254 a.d. Metropolite: Highest church official in the Greek Catholic Church. writers.
White Bur\han: The name given
the
to
Coming Buddha among
Altaian tribes of Siberia.
Fez: Turkish skull cap.
Tubetei\a Tartar skull cap.
Part
V
Schaitans: Devils. Afridi: Natives of the district around Peshawar.
[400]
the
GLOSSARY Baltis: Natives of Baltistan
Dras:
A
north of Kashmir.
district
on the road from Kashmir
site
The
Dards:
—a
to
Ladak.
people inhabiting the valleys adjacent to
Gilgit
— Moham-
medans.
Amban: Manchu
title
for a magistrate.
Tsaidam: District in the north of Tibet.
Lada\is: Natives of Ladak, Little Tibet. Astoris: Natives of the Astor district of
Kashmir.
Yar\andis: Natives of Yarkand. Stelles: Prehistoric stone slab.
Chinese pilgrim of the
Fa-hsieti:
A
Gessar-Khan: Tibetan
century a.d.
Coming One. Hero
of the great
of a great
Mongolo-
epic.
Maulbec\:
A A
Manjusri:
One
Lamayura:
name
fifth
monastery
site
near Leh.
monastery
site
near Leh.
of the principal Bodhisatvas, Prince of
Knowledge.
Kuan Yin: Chinese Goddess of Mercy. Lhamo: Tibetan deity of destruction. Maha\ala: Deity of Thunder.
Bruguma: Wife
Hindu
Sanyasin: E.
I.:
of Gessar-Khan. ascetic
A
Assur:
A
Ordoss:
tablets
desert.
A
constellation.
The mountainous The
region of Siberia
—a
range of mountains continu-
highest peak of Russian Altai.
Ghum: Monastery Nagchu:
A
district
near Darjeeling.
north of Lhasa.
Druid: Pre-Christian Gelong:
earliest
southernmost part of Mongolia.
ing into Mongolia.
Beluha:
from which
constellation especially characterized by the three central stars.
Great Bear: Altai:
of Professor Roerich.
tribe living in Transbakalia.
The Mongolian
A
—wife
Francke, renowned traveler.
were excavated.
district in the
Mongol
Buriat:
Herman
in Assyria, ancient seat of a library
city
known
Orion:
has reached the highest mystic knowledge.
Helena Ivanovna Roerich
Dr. Franc\e: Dr.
Gobi:
who
A
faith of the Celtic tribes.
full-consecrated lama.
[401
]
ALTAI-HIMALAYA Berendeyev\a: Land of Berendey; reference of Berendey
A
Shayo\:
is
made
here to the village
—out of the opera, “Snowmaiden.”
tributary of the Indus.
Boyars: Old Russian nobleman
—
state counselors.
Part VI Zorawar: Leader of a Dogra force which invaded western Tibet from Kashmir and plundered the monasteries.
Apocrypha: Writings having pretension
to
the character of the
scripture or received by certain sects but excluded
sacred
from the canon.
Evangel of the Ebionites: Sect of early church of second to fourth cenMessianic character of Christ but not his divinity.
turies, believing in
Epiphany: Bishop of Constantine born about 310. Jerome and opposed Origen in
One
Irenceus:
A
Dul^ar:
his
Teacher and friend of
numerous
writings.
of the early Christian fathers.
female deity corresponding to the Tara
—the
Mother of the
World.
Nubra: River Territ:
A
A A
Chorten:
Moraine:
in the
Nubra
district of
stupa, in Tibetan; a shrine over relics. line of rocks
and gravel
Martand: Temple three miles
tween 370-500 Sassar Sarai: Serai:
Kashmir.
on the Nubra River north of Leh.
site
A
camping
A
edge and base of
Islamabad
—
glaciers.
probably founded be-
A.D.
An encampment
Caravanserai:
at the
east of
place
beyond Sasser Pass.
or inn.
stopping place for the caravan.
Runes: The Runic language and characters are the mystery or sacerdotal tongue and alphabet of the ancient Scandinavians. Bogatyr: Knight, in Russian.
A
Kirghiz:
medan K’uen lun: Ko\yar:
A
nomad faith.
A
Mazar:
A\hun:
mountain range crossing northern India and Tibet.
small oasis in foothills south of Kargalik.
Sarts: Tribes
Ya\htan:
A
from eastern Russian Turkestan. small leather-covered
Tomb
A
race widely scattered through Central Asia, of
of holy
men
reader of the
wooden box.
or saints.
Koran
—a
title
[402]
indicating learning.
Moham-
GLOSSARY Aul: Mongol village (Tartar village).
A
Guma:
site
A
Dastarhhan:
A
Kluchino:
between Khotan and Kashgar. food-offering to a person of high position.
village in the
Tver government, Russia.
Nijni-Novgorod Fair: Far-famed peasant
fair
of Russia.
Ari\: Irrigation channel. Taf^la
Ma\an: The
buried
A
Kulan:
where
have been traced.
cities
A
Peshawar:
great desert covering central portion of Sinkiang
northwest frontier province of India.
city in the
wild ass (Asihus Kyang).
Barchans: Desert dunes.
Yamen: Chinese public office. Be\: Minor official of Chinese Turkestan.
Part VII
Head man,
A\sa\al:
or elder.
Sven Hedin:
A
W.
The well-known German
Filchner:
Swedish
traveler in Asia.
Prjevals\y: Russian explorer, Kosloff:
Eminent Russian
Kucha:
An
Sutra:
A
oasis
who
explorer of Tibet.
explored Central Asia.
scientist
and explorer, now
in Central Asia.
on the northern trade-route of Chinese Turkestan.
sacred book.
Karashahr
—Karashar: An
important
site
south of Urumchi.
Sir Charles Bell: British political officer for
Sikhim and Bhutan.
In 1921
conducted a diplomatic mission to Lhasa.
A
Sa\ya:
Kshatriya clan, which occupied a territory in the Nepal Terai,
from which Buddha sprang. Sir
Aurel Stein: Eminent archaeologist.
John Marshall, Director General of Archaeology in India.
Sir Marshall: Sir
A\su:
An
oasis
Tun-huang:
An
on the northern route of Chinese Turkestan. oasis of
western Kansu.
Kansu: Province of China, south of Lower Mongolia. Pelliot: Professor
Vihara:
A
Paul
Pelliot,
eminent French
sinologist.
Buddhist monastery.
Taels: Chinese currency.
Taotai: Chinese
Lao Tzin:
A
official.
contemporary Chinese philosopher and writer.
[403
]
—
A
Bal\h:
city of
Afghanistan.
Easter Islands: Islands of the Polynesian group in the Pacific.
A
Bezbojni\:
Russian newspaper dedicated to Atheism.
Tao: The name of the philosophy of Lao Tze.
Part VIII
A Turkish title Mafa: A carriage in Bey:
of respect.
Chinese Turkestan.
Pirosch\i: Pastry in Russia.
Ko\ochni\: The Russian women’s native headdress.
A
SadJ{o:
leading character
undersea
An
hangar:
Koshma:
in
“Sadko,” of
Rimsky-Korsakoff’s opera,
life.
inn.
Felt.
Diaghileff: Director of the Imperial Russian Ballet.
Bolm:
A
premier dancer in the Imperial Russian
A
To\har: to
people spoken of by Fa-hsien and other pilgrims; once said
have inhabited the
A
Ballet.
district
around Kuchar, now vanished.
conquering Turkestan and Dzungaria in 744 and maintaining an independent kingdom in valleys of T’ian Shan till
Uigurs:
Turki
1000 a d .
Kishlaf^s:
tribe
when
.
they migrated westward.
Winter settlement.
Doroga:
An
Torguts:
A
official in
Mongol
Turki. clan
which
settled
in
Russia, later emigrating into
Sinkiang. P’o-t’ai: Flat
tower of clay marking distances on the Sinkiang roads.
The
average distances between them are about 2V2 miles, although these constantly vary.
Li:
A
Chinese measure of distance, approximately 485 yards.
Barkjians: Sand mounds.
Buran: Hurricane.
Tseries:
Mobilized
soldiers.
Tamasha: Entertainment, a Kalmucks:
A
Mongolian
spectacle show.
tribe
which migrated
into Russia
and Chinese
Turkestan.
Arba\eshs, Majakeshs: Owners respectively of arbas carriages. [
404
]
—
carts,
and mafas
Kora\eshs: Owners of horses.
Troy \a: Carriage with three
horses.
Ulus: People, tribe.
Part IX Yurtas:
The
native tents of the Mongols.
Arshin: Russian measure.
Hunghutze: The Chinese robber bands operating along Manchuria;
chiefly
escaped criminals.
The “Holy Mountain,”
Bogdo-ul:
An
Kuac\a:
south of Urumchi, capital of Sinkiang.
ancient Russian headgear.
Kuindjy: One of Russia’s great
under
artists,
whom
Roerich
Professor
studied.
Ya\ub-Be\: Leader of
a
Mohammedan
rebellion against the Chinese
in
1865.
Tanguts: Branch of Mongol-Tartars spread
The name
Tripita\a:
Ribhvas: Planetary
in Central
of the Buddhist canon;
and Eastern
composed of three
Siberia.
divisions.
spirits.
Soma: Moon. Rig-Veda: the
first
of the four
Vedas or
scriptures of the
Meru, or Sumeru: The name of a mountain
Hindus.
said to be in the center of the
Earth and according to the East, the abode of the gods. Literally, new city. Kalmuck villages. T’ian Shan: Meaning Celestial mountains.
Novgorod: Ultus:
Marral: Deer found in the Altai region, the horns of which are powdered
and made
into medicine.
Tzagan Khutu\hta: Khutukhta white.
This
is
the highest rank of lama;
Tzagan
is
refers to a holy lama.
Alus: Villages.
A
Yerma\:
robber chieftain who, outlawed by the Tzar Ivan the Terrible,
went beyond the Ural and conquered a new
territory.
He was drowned
shortly after, in 1584.
Kolcha\:
A
general of the “white forces.”
A\-Dorje: Buddhist symbol of the thunderbolt.
Du\ang: Chief Temple Obo:
A
cairn of stones
of a lamaist monastery.
which crowns the summit of a [
405
]
pass.
:
ALTAI-HIMALAYA N orbu-rinpoche:
Precious jewel.
Panaga Tribe of northeastern Tibet. Horpa: Natives of Hor, northeastern Tibet. Dzong-pons: Head of an administrative
Dzong: Seat
government of the
of the
district.
district.
Menhirs: Megalithic stone monuments. Da-yig-letter: Official letter sent to the authorities
announcing the
arrival
of a person of high standing.
Kal\i Avatar: Kalki incarnation of Vishnu. Sho: Copper coin in Tibet (ten sho make one ngusang).
X—XII
Part Shambatyon:
A
river
mentioned in the Old Testament and said to have
mystic significance.
Katun:
A
Bya:
A
river in the Altai
mountains.
river in the Altai mountains.
Ails: Villages.
Oyrots:
Known
The
as the
Oirot has spread in the
belief in
time a
messenger of the White Burkhan or coming Buddha.
woman
of the
Shaman
last
generation.
her people that they must renounce their magic
in purity the
coming
of the
this
perceived in the mountains a
tribe,
who
vision of Oirot, a giant white figure on horseback, tell
Within
White Burkhan.
rites
Reference
is
bade her
and await here
made
to this legend.
Tchud: Derived from the word “wonder” Belovodye: Literally white waters. Panteleon: these
—and
attributed to a people.
Attributed to the
name
of a place.
and healer who gathered herbs and healed through
Saint
homely remedies.
Kabarga: The musk ram of Altai.
A\-\em: Meaning Baldur:
The Giver
literally
of
all
white water.
Good.
A
figure in Scandinavian mythology.
A\-Dorje: Buddhist symbol of the thunderbolt.
Du\ang: Obo:
N
A
A
chief
Temple
cairn of stones
of a lamaist Monastery.
which crowns the summit
orbu-rinpoche: Precious jewel.
Panaga: Tribe of northeastern Tibet.
Horpa: Natives
of
Hor, northeastern Tibet.
[406]
of a pass.
GLOSSARY Dzong-pons: Head of an administrative
Dzong: Seat of the government of the Menhirs: Megalithic stone monuments.
district.
district.
Da-yig-letter: Official letter sent to the authorities
announcing the
of a person of high standing.
Kal\i Avatar: Kalki incarnation of Vishnu. Sho: Copper coin in Tibet (ten sho
make one ngusang).
THE END
r
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1
arrival