AllanBakes Really Good No-Nonsense Nyonya Treats [1 ed.] 9789814828956

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A l l a n b a k e s

R e a l ly

G o o d

no-nonsense

Nyonya Treats

ALLAN ALBERT TEOH

A l l a n b a k e s

R e a l ly

G o o d

no-nonsense

Nyonya Treats ALLAN ALBERT TEOH

The publisher wishes to thank Pek Kio Community Centre for the use of their culinary studio for the photography session. Editor: Lo Yi Min Designer: Bernard Go Kwang Meng Photographer: Liu Hongde, Hongde Photography © 2018 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited Published By Marshall Cavendish Cuisine An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International

All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Requests for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.marshallcavendish.com/genref Limits of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: The Author and Publisher of this book have used their best efforts in preparing this book. The Publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the Publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired due to variations in ingredients, cooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The Publisher shall in no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish Offices: Marshall Cavendish Corporation. 99 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591-9001, USA • Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand • Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia. Marshall Cavendish is a registered trademark of Times Publishing Limited National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Name(s): Teoh, Allan Albert. Title: No-nonsense Nyonya treats / Allan Albert Teoh. Description: Singapore : Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, [2018] | Series: AllanBakes really good no-nonsense. Identifier(s): OCN 1043350726 | ISBN 978-981-48-2854-3 (paperback) Subject(s): LCSH: Cooking, Peranakan. | LCGFT: Cookbooks. Classification: DDC 641.59595--dc23 Printed in Singapore

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Contents Introduction 5

Hokkien Bak Chang 40

Acknowledgements 7

Kee Chang 44

Pineapple Tarts 8

Spiral Curry Puffs 46

Kuih Bangkit 10

Huat Kuih 50

Kuih Ubi Kayu 12

Kuih Talam Corn 52

Bingka Ubi Kayu 14

Purple Sweet Potato Ondeh-Ondeh 54

Getuk Ubi 16

Ang Ku Kuih 56

Kuih Dadar 18

Kuih Lapis 60

Steamed Kuih Lapis 20

Pandan Chiffon Cake 62

Kuih Bahulu 22

Ang Cho Teh with Lotus Seeds 64

Kuih Salat 24

Bubor Cha Cha 66

Kuih Kosui 28

Pulut Hitam 68

Steamed Pumpkin Kuih 30

Basic Techniques 70

Steamed Yam Kuih 34

Weights and Measures 71

Nyonya Chang 36

About the Author 72

4

Introduction

Peranakans, who are of mixed Chinese and Malay heritage, are well known for their delicious and distinctive cuisine. As food was traditionally prepared by the women (Nyonyas), Peranakan food is often also referred to as Nyonya cuisine. Although I’m not Peranakan, I inherited a love for Nyonya treats and a collection of perfected Nyonya recipes from my late mum, Madam Ong Su Wha. She was a self-taught cook whose recipes came from various sources — some were handed down to her by her mum, others were shared by friends. My mum had many friends who were Peranakans, and I suppose that they were the reason for her Nyonya-inflected repertoire. She prepared many Nyonya dishes and kuih at home, perfecting each dish through trial and error. Over time, she amassed an extensive collection of Nyonya recipes, and along the way she nurtured my love for Nyonya dishes. Spurred by my mother’s enthusiasm and my love for Nyonya kuih, I wrote this book. I hope it allays the fears of kuih lovers who want to try their hand at making these treats but have been intimidated by traditional Nyonya recipes that tend to require tedious preparation and complicated steps. I’ve also made adjustments to my mum’s recipes to cater to taste preferences today. Generally, Nyonya recipes are guarded family secrets, but I am not the kind of person who would keep good recipes a secret. When I was young, I spent many hours by my mum’s side as she cooked and baked for her family of eight. Watching a mix of flour, coconut and sugar emerge from the steamer as fragrant and yummy kuih was and still remains a kind of magical experience I cherish. By sharing these recipes with many others from all walks of life, I believe that they too will experience similar happy moments when preparing these treats. I hope that this book will reassure those inspired to make these treats in the way that my mum would reassure me: making Nyonya kuih from scratch is not tedious, but fun and rewarding. Please, put your apron on and start having fun! Allan Albert Teoh

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7

Acknowledgements

Putting together this book and publishing it has been my dream. It would not have been possible without the help of the following people: To the team at Marshall Cavendish, especially Lydia Leong, Bernard Go and Lo Yi Min, thank you for helping to turn this book into a reality. Liu Hongde: You have gone that extra mile to make every photograph look beautiful. This book benefitted greatly from your enthusiasm and creativity. Amy Ou, Eileen Lim, Joyce Seah, June Sng and Serene Lim: Thank you for all your help in experimenting with the recipes as well as preparing the dishes for the photo shoot. Phyllis Chan: Thank you for always being there for me, during the good times and the bad times. The value of your words of encouragement and support, as well as your thoughtfulness, is immeasurable. Guat Bee: Thank you for being my pillar of support. I cherish deeply everything you’ve done for me and hold them close to my heart. I would also like to say a very big thank you to everyone who has supported me, friends and fans alike. Without you, I would not be who I am today. From the bottom of my heart, THANK YOU!

8

Pineapple Tarts The trick in making delicious tarts is in its filling. Use fresh pineapples and grate them yourself instead of using store-bought filling. Freshly cooked pineapple jam sitting on top of a crumbly, buttery crust is hard to resist. .

Makes about 45 tarts

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1.

Preheat oven to 170°C. Line baking trays with siliconised parchment paper.

2.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat, combine grated pineapple, sugar and cloves and bring to a boil. Stir constantly until sugar is dissolved and cook for 2–3 hours until jam is thick. Remove from heat and leave to cool completely.

3.

Prepare pastry. Sift plain flour, self-raising flour and salt together 3 times.

A pinch of salt

4.

180 g unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled

Work with your fingertips to rub butter into flour mixture until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.

5.

Make a well in the centre of the mixture. Add egg and cold water. Bind ingredients together gently. Do not knead too much. Wrap dough in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

6.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out dough into a 3-mm thick sheet. Cut out circles using a pineapple tart cutter. Set aside a small portion of dough and cut into thin strips.

Pineapple jam 500 g pineapple, grated 250 g castor sugar 6 cloves

Pastry 150 g plain (all-purpose) flour 150 g self-raising flour

1 medium egg, beaten 2 Tbsp cold water

Egg wash 1 medium egg yolk, beaten 2 tsp water

7.

Arrange circles slightly apart on prepared baking trays.

8.

Combine egg yolk and water to make egg wash. Moisten pastry circles with egg wash.

9.

Form pineapple jam into balls, each about 10–12 g, and place on top of circles. Criss-cross thin dough strips over jam.

10. Bake for about 25 minutes. Remove tarts from the oven and leave to cool completely. 11. Store in an airtight container.

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10

Kuih Bangkit I love this recipe because it is simple and the kuih bangkit melts in your mouth. It is very important that you remove excess moisture from the flour. These are perfect as gifts during festive seasons. Makes about 80 small cookies

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

160 ml freshly squeezed coconut milk

1.

Preheat oven to 150°C. Line baking trays with siliconised parchment paper.

2.

In a saucepan over medium heat, bring coconut milk, salt and pandan leaves to a boil. Strain and leave to cool.

3.

Prepare combined flour. In a wok over medium-low heat, stir-fry sago flour and tapioca flour with pandan leaves for about 40 minutes. When flour mixture is light and dry, and pandan leaves are dried, remove from heat and set aside to cool. Remove pandan leaves and sift mixture 3 times.

4.

Using an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, whisk egg yolks and sugar for 5–6 minutes until pale.

5.

Place 320 g combined flour into a large mixing bowl and make a well in the centre. Add egg mixture gradually, mixing as you add. Lightly knead dough until just combined and dough looks white. If dough is too dry and not kneading nicely, add a little water as needed. The dough should be slightly dry when it comes together as the flours used are starches. Keep dough covered with cling film when not in use.

6.

On a work surface lightly dusted with tapioca flour, roll out a small portion of dough into a 3- or 4-mm sheet. Cut out shapes using a small cookie cutter and arrange on prepared baking trays. Repeat until dough is used up. If dough becomes too dry to mould along the way, add a teaspoonful of water as needed.

7.

Bake for 15–20 minutes or until bottom of cookies are slightly brown.

8.

Leave cookies to cool completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container. This is a very light cookie and tends to soften when exposed to air. To retain its crispiness, store in the refrigerator uncovered.

1

/4 tsp salt

2 pandan leaves, cut into small pieces 320 g combined flour (see below) 2 medium egg yolks 110 g castor sugar Water, as needed

Combined flour 600 g sago flour 120 g tapioca flour 3 pandan leaves, cut into small pieces

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Kuih Ubi Kayu Apart from water, this recipe calls for only four ingredients. Sometimes, the simplest things are the most delicious. Makes one 25-cm round pan of kuih

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1 kg grated tapioca

1.

Prepare a steamer.

900 ml water

2.

Prepare topping. Cut 8 pandan leaves into halves and tear each half midway. Spread torn pandan leaf halves and grated coconut on a flat plate. Steam over medium-high heat for 20–25 minutes.

3.

Discard pandan leaves and leave grated coconut to cool. Sprinkle with salt and stir with 2 forks to mix the salt into the coconut.

4.

Place grated tapioca in a large baking pan and add 900 ml water until mixture has a smooth consistency. For a softer kuih texture, add an additional 100 ml water. Stir mixture with your hands to assess its consistency and discard any tough tapioca stems.

5.

Add grated coconut and sugar. Stir mixture with your hands until it no longer sticks to your hands.

6.

Tear 8 pandan leaves into fine strips and place over tapioca mixture. Steam over medium-high heat for 40–45 minutes until bottom of tapioca mixture is translucent. (This may take a longer time than specified, depending on the size of the baking pan and the depth of the mixture.)

7.

After about 40 minutes, insert a fork into the centre of the steamed tapioca and check if it is translucent. If it is, it is done. Otherwise, steam for another 5 minutes or longer and check again.

8.

Remove from the steamer and tip baking pan to drain any excess water. Leave kuih to cool completely. Remove pandan leaves.

9.

Top cooled kuih with grated coconut topping. Cut into slices and roll kuih over grated coconut to coat it well.

100 g grated skinned coconut 200–230 g castor sugar 8 pandan leaves

Topping 8 pandan leaves 600 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

NOTE 2 drops of red or green food colouring may be added to the tapioca before steaming.

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Bingka Ubi Kayu Toast and eggs for breakfast are great, but when you are craving something different, this baked tapioca kuih will hit the spot. Of course, you can also have this any time you please and not just for breakfast. Makes one 20-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

200 ml coconut milk

1.

Preheat oven to 190°C. Line and grease a 20-cm baking pan, leaving an overhang on 2 opposite sides.

2.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, combine coconut milk, water, salt, sugar and pandan leaves and stir until sugar dissolves. Leave to cool and strain before using.

3.

In a food processor or blender, process grated tapioca, eggs, egg yolk and oil for 2 minutes. Add cooled coconut milk mixture and grated coconut and mix well to incorporate.

4.

Pour mixture into prepared baking pan and bake for 1 hour 20 minutes or until golden brown.

2 Tbsp corn oil

5.

Remove tapioca kuih from pan and leave to cool for 3 hours.

150 g grated skinned coconut

6.

Slice with an oiled serrated knife.

7.

The kuih can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. To consume, warm in preheated oven at 120°C for 15–20 minutes.

110 ml water 1

/4 tsp salt

300 g golden castor sugar 6 pandan leaves, torn into halves 1 kg grated tapioca 2 medium eggs 1 medium egg yolk

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16

Getuk Ubi Buying this Nyonya kuih from the shops can be expensive in Singapore. But with this book, you can now make your own! Makes one 23-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1 piece banana leaf

1.

Prepare a steamer. Line a 23-cm square cake pan with banana leaf.

2.

Peel tapioca and cut into long thin strips. Steam over high heat for about 1 hour until soft.

3.

Remove from heat and transfer steamed tapioca to a large mixing bowl. Add salt, vanilla extract, milk powder and sugar. Using a handheld mixer, mash tapioca to your desired consistency. Having bite-sized chunks of tapioca in the mixture is good.

4.

Press tapioca mixture into prepared cake pan firmly to prevent kuih from splitting apart later. Set aside.

5.

Prepare palm sugar coconut layer. In a bowl, mix cornflour and 1 Tbsp water. Set aside.

6.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring 51/2 Tbsp water, palm sugar and torn pandan leaves to a boil. When sugar is melted, remove pandan leaves and discard. Continue to heat sugar mixture.

7.

Add cornflour mixture to sugar syrup and stir until well combined. You should get a thick sugary paste.

8.

Stir in grated coconut. Using a whisk, mix for 5–6 minutes until well incorporated. The mixture should be slightly dry and not too wet. Remove from heat and leave to cool slightly.

9.

Press cooled sugared coconut mixture firmly into a layer on top of the tapioca mixture. Using a skewer, pierce holes through the 2 layers so that any liquid from the sugared coconut layer will soak into the tapioca layer.

1 kg tapioca 1

/2 tsp salt

1 tsp vanilla extract 1 Tbsp skimmed milk powder 120 g golden castor sugar Pandan leaves, as desired

Palm sugar coconut layer 1 Tbsp cornflour 1 Tbsp + 51/2 Tbsp water 200 g palm sugar (gula melaka) 8–10 pandan leaves, torn into halves 500 g grated skinned coconut

10. Knot some pandan leaves and place over sugared coconut layer. Cover cake pan loosely with aluminium foil and steam over high heat for 5–10 minutes. 11. Remove from heat and leave to cool completely before refrigerating. Serve chilled. This is best eaten the following day.

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18

Kuih Dadar These pandan coconut crêpes with gula melaka filling are light enough to satisfy you when you are feeling peckish or in need of a sugar rush. They are really easy to make and very good with a cup of tea. Makes about 25 rolls

INGREDIENTS

Crêpe

METHOD

1.

Prepare pandan juice a day ahead. In a food processor or blender, blend water and pandan leaves. Leave mixture to stand overnight, then strain to obtain pandan juice.

2.

Sift plain flour and tapioca flour together 3 times.

3.

Add condensed milk, pandan juice, pandan paste, eggs, oil, salt and coconut milk. Mix well and strain batter to remove any lumps of flour. The batter should be slightly runny. (If batter is too thin, add more flour. If batter is too thick, add more water.) Let batter rest for at least 30 minutes.

4.

Heat a 15-cm (6-inch) frying pan over medium-low heat and grease the pan lightly with corn oil.

5.

Remove from heat and pour in a ladle of batter. Swirl the pan quickly to distribute the batter evenly into a thin layer. Return the frying pan to the heat.

6.

When crêpe takes on some colour, flip it over and cook for another 20 seconds. Transfer crêpe to a flat plate. Repeat to make more crêpes with the remaining batter.

7.

Prepare filling. In a saucepan, bring palm sugar, brown sugar, pandan leaves and water to a boil. When palm sugar and brown sugar are dissolved, remove syrup from heat and discard pandan leaves.

8.

In another saucepan, heat castor sugar until it caramelises. Add palm sugar syrup, grated coconut and salt. Cook until mixture is moist but not wet. Stir in flour and cook until filling reaches desired dryness. Leave to cool before using.

9.

To assemble, spoon 1 Tbsp coconut filling on the smooth side of a crêpe. Bring two opposite sides of the crêpe towards the centre and over the filling. Roll up the crêpe tightly from one end to form a neat roll. Repeat with remaining crêpes and filling.

500 ml water + more as needed 16 pandan leaves, chopped into small pieces 260 g plain (all-purpose) flour + more as needed 2 Tbsp tapioca flour 1 Tbsp condensed milk 1 tsp pandan paste 2 medium eggs 2 Tbsp corn oil + more as needed 1

/4 tsp salt

80 ml coconut milk

Filling 150 g palm sugar (gula melaka) 2 Tbsp brown sugar 6 pandan leaves 100 ml water 3 Tbsp castor sugar 350 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

1 tsp plain (all-purpose) flour

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20

Steamed Kuih Lapis This nine-layered steamed kuih is a favourite childhood treat of mine and of many others, I’m sure. Peeling each layer and savouring it bit by bit is so much fun. I still eat it this way. Makes one 20-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1 piece banana leaf

1.

Prepare a steamer. Line a 20-cm square cake pan with banana leaf, leaving an overhang on 2 opposite sides. Lightly grease the banana leaf.

2.

In a bowl, combine coconut milk with 200 ml water. Add tapioca flour and mix well with a whisk. Set aside.

3.

In a saucepan, heat sugar with 700 ml water and pandan leaves until sugar dissolves. Remove syrup from heat and set aside to cool before using.

4.

Sift rice flour and salt together, then stir into sugar syrup. Add alkaline water and mix well.

5.

Add syrup mixture to tapioca flour mixture and combine well using a whisk.

6.

Strain batter and portion out 280 g. Divide the remaining batter into 8 equal portions.

7.

Add a different food colouring to each equal portion and mix well. The 280-g portion should be kept white for the bottom layer.

8.

Pour 280-g portion into prepared cake pan and steam for 6–7 minutes. Pour a coloured portion over the first layer and steam for 6–8 minutes. Repeat steaming process for the following 6 coloured portions. Finally, add the last coloured layer and steam for 15–20 minutes.

9.

Remove from the steamer and leave to rest for 2–3 hours. For even better results, leave to rest overnight.

600 ml coconut milk 200 ml + 700 ml water 350 g tapioca flour, sifted 350 g castor sugar 12 pandan leaves 230 g rice flour 1 tsp salt 1

/4 tsp alkaline water (optional)

8 different food colouring, as needed

NOTE Always stir the batter before pouring into the steaming pan as the flours may have settled at the bottom of the bowl.

10. Slice with a sharp oiled knife or plastic dough scraper. Do not saw the kuih as doing so will result in rough edges.

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22

Kuih Bahulu These fluffy petite sponge cakes are the easiest to make. As they are also easy to pop into your mouth, they make a very addictive treat. Makes about 100 pieces

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

180 g plain (all-purpose) flour

1.

Place flour and pandan leaves in a baking tray and bake for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven. Leave to cool for 30 minutes before discarding pandan leaves. Set aside.

2.

Preheat oven to 200°C. Prepare kuih bahulu moulds.

3.

Add baking powder and bicarbonate of soda to flour mixture. Sift mixture 3 times and set aside.

4.

Using an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, whisk eggs, salt, vanilla extract and rose water together until foamy. Add sugar gradually and whisk until the batter is about 3 times its initial volume. This should take about 18 minutes and the batter will become pale yellow.

5.

Using a rubber spatula, fold flour mixture into batter in 3 equal additions. Do not over mix. Add 11/2 Tbsp corn oil and mix well.

6.

Fill kuih bahulu moulds to the brim with oil and heat moulds in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and pour oil out of moulds. The oil can be kept for reusing. Fill three-quarters of each mould with batter. Bake for 10–15 minutes or until golden. Remove from the oven. Use a toothpick to remove kuih bahulu from moulds onto a wire rack to cool completely.

7.

Repeat the process of oiling and filling the moulds. Reduce baking time to 10 minutes after the first batch is done.

8.

Store in an airtight container for up to 10 days.

2–3 pandan leaves, torn in half 1 tsp double-acting baking powder 1

/4 tsp bicarbonate of soda

4 medium eggs, chilled A pinch of salt 1

/2 tsp vanilla extract

1

/2 tsp rose water

160 g castor sugar 1½ Tbsp corn oil+ more for greasing

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Kuih Salat This was one of my mum’s favourites. Glutinous rice gets packed into a chewy layer and topped with aromatic coconut custard (kaya). This is quite rich, so watch your portions, as I am sure you will not be able to eat only one piece. Makes one 20-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1 piece banana leaf

1.

60 dried blue pea flowers (bunga telang)

Prepare glutinous rice and blue pea flowers for glutinous rice layer a day ahead. Rinse glutinous rice well and soak for 7–8 hours or overnight. Soak blue pea flowers with 4–5 Tbsp water and puree the mixture. Strain to obtain coloured water and set aside.

2.

On the following day, drain water from rice.

4–5 Tbsp water

3.

Prepare a steamer and a steaming tray.

1 tsp salt

4.

Add salt to coconut milk, then pour over glutinous rice and mix well using your hands. Spread half the rice mixture in the prepared tray, top with pandan leaves, then spread the remaining rice mixture on top. Steam over high heat for about 30 minutes.

5.

Using a chopstick, poke holes into rice layer and steam again for another 30 minutes.

6.

Drizzle blue pea water over rice. Using a chopstick, stir the rice to mix the colouring evenly. Steam for a further 10–15 minutes or until rice is about 90% done. Set aside to cool. Discard pandan leaves.

Glutinous rice layer 800 g glutinous rice

450 ml coconut milk 10 or more as needed pandan leaves

Coconut custard layer 10 or more as desired pandan leaves, cut into small pieces 600 ml coconut milk 10 medium eggs 380 g castor sugar 120 ml warm water 4 Tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour 2 tsp pandan paste 1 tsp salt 1 Tbsp sunflower oil

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7.

Prepare coconut custard layer. In a food processor, blend pandan leaves and coconut milk together until pandan leaves become fine.

8.

Add eggs, sugar, water, flour, pandan paste, salt and oil. Process until smooth. Strain mixture and set aside.

9.

Line a 20-cm square cake pan with banana leaf, leaving an overhang on 2 opposite sides. Lightly grease the prepared pan.

10. Transfer cooled rice to prepared square pan and press rice gently into the bottom of the pan. Do not use too much pressure or the rice will be too compact. 11. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, cook coconut custard mixture, whisking it constantly until it starts to bubble and gets difficult to stir. Pour mixture over rice layer. 12. Steam over high heat for about 45 minutes or more, until a skewer inserted into the centre of the kuih comes out clean, or when the coconut custard layer starts pulling away from the edges of the pan. 13. Leave pan on a wire rack for 3–4 hours to cool completely. Unmould kuih and slice with a sharp oiled knife into rectangles to serve.

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28

Kuih Kosui What I love about this kuih is that it is incredibly soft. It also uses kapur, which Nyonya women used to chew with betel leaves. This kuih will keep for 4–5 days in the refrigerator. Makes about 60 pieces

1.5 litres + 1.05 litres water

METHOD

700 g palm sugar (gula melaka)

1.

Prepare a steamer. Grease 60 baking cups, each about 4.5-cm in diameter.

2.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 1.5 litres water, palm sugar and 16 pandan leaves to a boil and let simmer for 5–10 minutes until palm sugar is melted. Discard pandan leaves and strain mixture into a bowl.

16 + 8 pandan leaves, cut into halves 250 g rice flour 250 g tapioca flour 1 tsp ghee, melted 3

/4 tsp kapur (or camphor)

1 kg grated skinned coconut 1

/4 tsp salt

NOTE Kapur is a white spice that is often chewed with betel leaves. It is available at Indian grocery shops. If not available, substitute with lye water.

3.

Sift rice flour and tapioca flour together. Set aside.

4.

Place 1.05 litres water in a large mixing bowl. Add flour mixture and stir well using a hand whisk. Add ghee and kapur and whisk until smooth.

5.

Combine flour mixture with palm sugar mixture and boil over low heat, whisking continuously until batter thickens and has a smooth texture. Remove immediately from heat.

6.

Pour batter into prepared baking cups. Steam over medium-high heat for about 30 minutes. Remove from steamer and leave to cool in cups for about 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

7.

Remove cooled kuih from cups.

8.

Over medium-high heat, steam grated coconut with 8 pandan leaves for about 20 minutes. Remove mixture from heat and discard pandan leaves. Leave coconut to cool before sprinkling with salt.

9.

Coat kuih kosui with steamed coconut. Chill and serve.

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Steamed Pumpkin Kuih This item was a hit on my catering menu and was often requested by my corporate clients. I’ve adjusted the recipe to include more shredded pumpkin. Makes one 22-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

Seasoning

Sesame oil, as needed for greasing

1 tsp chicken seasoning powder

8 dried Chinese mushrooms

1 tsp salt

100 g dried shrimps

1 tsp ground cinnamon

250 g rice flour

1 tsp light soy sauce

80 g tapioca flour

1 tsp sesame oil

100 ml + more for frying corn oil

1 tsp castor sugar

100 g shallots, peeled and minced

1 tsp ground white pepper

3 Tbsp garlic, peeled and minced 180 g minced pork 600 g pumpkin, peeled and shredded

Garnish A small bunch of coriander leaves, chopped 3 fresh red chillies, chopped 50 g crisp-fried shallots 30 g white sesame seeds, toasted

NOTE Try pan-frying the chilled and sliced kuih. Dip into beaten egg and pan-fry until golden brown on both sides.

31

METHOD

1.

Prepare a steamer. Line a 22-cm square pan and grease with sesame oil.

2.

Soak mushrooms in 450 ml warm water until softened. Drain and reserve soaking liquid. Trim and discard stems. Cut mushroom caps into cubes.

3.

Blanch shrimps in 150 ml boiling water. Drain and reserve blanching water. Chop coarsely.

4.

Sift rice flour and tapioca flour together 3 times. Whisk flour mixture together with liquid from mushrooms and shrimps until smooth. Set flour solution aside.

5.

In a non-stick frying pan or a wok, heat 100 ml corn oil over medium-high heat. Sauté minced shallots and garlic until soft.

6.

Add shrimps and mushrooms and stir-fry for about 3 minutes until fragrant. Add minced pork and continue stirring for about 4 minutes until meat is cooked. Remove from heat and set aside.

7.

Add a little more corn oil (2–3 Tbsp) into the wok if necessary. Add pumpkin and stir-fry for about 3 minutes until fragrant. Add seasoning ingredients and cooked pork mixture and mix well.

8.

Pour in flour solution and cook over low heat for about 2 minutes, stirring continuously until pumpkin mixture thickens.

9.

Transfer pumpkin mixture to prepared pan and smoothen the surface of the mixture with the back of a spoon. Steam over high heat for about 50 minutes.

10. Remove pumpkin kuih from heat and leave on a wire rack to cool completely. 11. Slice to serve and garnish with coriander leaves, chillies, shallots and sesame seeds. Store in an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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34

Steamed Yam Kuih This kuih is rich in texture and makes a tasty and satisfying breakfast or snack. Makes one 22-cm round cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

6 dried Chinese mushrooms

1.

Prepare a steamer. Line a 22-cm round pan and grease with sesame oil.

2.

Soak mushrooms in 500 ml warm water until softened. Drain and reserve soaking liquid. Trim and discard stems. Cut mushroom caps into cubes.

3.

Blanch shrimps in 150 ml boiling water. Drain and reserve blanching water. Chop coarsely.

4.

Sift rice flour and tapioca flour together 3 times. Whisk flour mixture together with liquid from mushrooms and shrimps until smooth. Set flour solution aside.

5.

In a non-stick frying pan or a wok, heat some corn oil over medium-high heat. Fry 100 g shallots until slightly brown. Add minced garlic and sauté for about 30 seconds. Add shrimps and mushrooms and fry until fragrant.

6.

Add minced pork or chicken and continue stirring for 3–4 minutes until meat is cooked. Remove from heat and set aside.

7.

Add a little more corn oil (2–3 Tbsp) into the wok if necessary. Fry yam cubes for about 4 minutes until fragrant. Add seasoning ingredients and cooked meat mixture and mix well.

8.

Pour in flour solution and cook over low heat for about 2 minutes, stirring continuously until yam mixture thickens.

9.

Transfer yam mixture to prepared pan and smoothen the surface of the mixture with the back of a spoon. Steam over high heat for 45–50 minutes.

80 g dried shrimps 160 g rice flour 3 Tbsp tapioca flour Corn oil, as needed for frying 100 g shallots, peeled and sliced thinly 11/2 tsp minced garlic 120 g minced pork or chicken 500 g yam, peeled and cubed

Seasoning 1 tsp chicken seasoning powder 1 tsp salt 1 tsp five-spice powder 1

/4 tsp fish sauce

1 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp sesame oil 1

/2 tsp castor sugar

1

/2 tsp ground white pepper

Garnish A small bunch of coriander leaves, chopped 3 fresh red chillies, chopped 50 g crisp-fried shallots

10. Remove yam kuih from heat and leave on a wire rack to cool completely. 11. Slice to serve and garnish with coriander leaves, chillies and shallots. Store in an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to 5 days.

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Nyonya Chang This dumpling was extremely popular at my café during the Dragon Boat Festival. Orders would pour in during the week prior to the festival. Makes 18 dumplings

600 g glutinous rice, soaked in water for 1 hour and drained

80 g garlic, peeled and chopped

1 Tbsp ground coriander

125 g candied winter melon, finely chopped

1

/2 Tbsp five-spice powder

400 g pork belly, cut into small cubes

1

1

1 Tbsp ground white pepper

1 Tbsp ground coriander

11/2 Tbsp shallot oil

1

1 Tbsp garlic powder

21/2 Tbsp dark soy sauce

15 blue pea flowers (bunga telang)

1 Tbsp light soy sauce

2–3 Tbsp warm water

13/4 Tbsp castor sugar

/2 tsp salt

Filling

/2 Tbsp five-spice powder /2 Tbsp ground white pepper

1 tsp salt

270 g dried Chinese mushrooms

4–5 Tbsp crisp-fried shallots, crushed

40 g dried shrimps

Wrapping and boiling

Vegetable oil, as needed for frying

36 dried bamboo leaves

80 g shallots, chopped

18 or more reed strings 10 pandan leaves, cut into small rectangular pieces + more 2–3 Tbsp salt

NOTE The cooking time for the dumplings depends on their size. For all dumplings, use the time provided as an estimate. Dumplings can be kept frozen for up to 3 weeks.

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METHOD

1.

Set aside 125 g drained rice for blue pea flower portion. Add coriander, five-spice powder, salt, pepper, shallot oil and garlic powder to the remaining rice. Mix well and set aside.

2.

Pound blue pea flowers slightly and add 2–3 Tbsp warm water. Soak for at least 1 hour before squeezing flowers to extract juice.

3.

Add blue pea flower juice to 125 g rice and leave to soak for 1 hour before using. The rice will turn a light blue. Drain and set aside.

4.

Prepare filling. Soak mushrooms in hot water until softened. Drain and reserve 40 ml soaking liquid. Trim and discard stems. Dice mushrooms finely.

5.

Soak shrimps in hot water until soft. Drain shrimps and chop finely.

6.

In a wok over medium-high heat, add vegetable oil and sauté chopped shallots and garlic until fragrant. Add mushrooms and shrimps and continue stirring for about 5 minutes until aromatic. Add pork belly and cook for another 5–6 minutes until meat is well cooked. Add candied winter melon, the remaining filling ingredients except the shallot crisps, and the mushroom soaking liquid. Let mixture simmer for a while.

7.

Remove from heat and strain filling to remove excess oil. Leave to cool completely before using. Add shallot crisps to cooled filling and mix well. Set aside.

8.

Fold bamboo leaves in half and tie with a reed string loosely. Submerge leaves and remaining reed strings in a pot of boiling water and boil for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from pot and dry with a cloth. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use. If you are using fresh bamboo leaves, simply wash and dry them. There is no need to soak them.

9.

To wrap dumpling, take 2 bamboo leaves with their smooth sides facing you. Fold the leaves over themselves near the centre to form a cone. One end of the leaves should be higher than the other.

10. Place 1/ 2 tsp blue pea flower rice into the cone, followed by 1 Tbsp seasoned rice. Make a dent in the rice and place 11/ 2 –2 Tbsp filling in the dent. Top with 1 Tbsp seasoned rice and 1/ 2 Tbsp blue pea flower rice. Press down on rice gently with a spoon and cover with a small piece of pandan leaf. Wrap ends of leaves around the dumpling into a pyramid. Secure tightly with reed strings. Repeat with remaining ingredients. 11. In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring water, 2–3 Tbsp salt and some pandan leaves to a boil. Boil dumplings for at least 1 hour 30 minutes until rice is tender. Depending on the heat, dumplings might take longer to cook. You may also use a pressure cooker and cook dumplings for 45 minutes to 1 hour. 12. Remove dumplings from heat and leave to drip dry. The dumplings can be eaten immediately or stored for 3–4 days in the refrigerator.

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Hokkien Bak Chang This Hokkien meat dumpling recipe is from my mum who taught it to my sister and then to me. I would advise that you begin by following my recipe and adjusting it to your preference subsequently. Makes about 18 dumplings

INGREDIENTS

Pork filling

Chestnut filling

50 ml corn oil

300 g pork belly, cut into 25 pieces

12 dried chestnuts

10 shallots, peeled and finely diced

8 shallots, peeled and finely diced

2 Tbsp corn oil

1

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

500 g glutinous rice, soaked in water for 1 hour and drained 1

/2 Tbsp five-spice powder

1 tsp salt 1

/2 tsp sugar

1

/2 Tbsp ground white pepper

1 Tbsp light soy sauce 2 Tbsp dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp oyster sauce 1

/2 Tbsp sesame oil

1

/2 tsp chicken seasoning powder

/2 tsp sesame oil

1

/2 tsp sugar

1

/2 Tbsp five-spice powder

1

/2 tsp ground white pepper

1

/2 tsp Shaoxing wine

1

/2 tsp salt

1

/2 Tbsp light soy sauce

2 Tbsp dark soy sauce

/4 tsp five-spice powder

1

/4 tsp ground coriander

1

/2 tsp ground white pepper

1 tsp dark soy sauce 1

/2 tsp light soy sauce

1

/2 tsp oyster sauce

1 Tbsp oyster sauce

Shrimp filling

30 ml water

50 g dried shrimps

1 /2–2 Tbsp corn oil

13/4 Tbsp corn oil

Mushroom filling

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

1

12 dried Chinese mushrooms

1

11/2 Tbsp corn oil

1

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

1

1

/4 tsp five-spice powder

NOTE You may replace dried chestnuts with store-bought pre-cooked chestnuts in this recipe. This dumpling can be kept frozen for up to 3 weeks.

1

1

/4 tsp ground coriander

1

/2 tsp ground white pepper

1

/2 tsp dark soy sauce

/2 tsp five-spice powder /2 tsp ground white pepper /2 tsp dark soy sauce

Salted egg filling (optional) 6 salted duck egg yolks, cooked and cut into quarters

1

/2 Tbsp Shaoxing wine

1

/2 tsp oyster sauce

1

/2 tsp sugar

1

/2 tsp light soy sauce

1 Tbsp water

Wrapping and Boiling 40 dried bamboo leaves 20 or more reed strings 1 Tbsp salt

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METHOD

1.

Prepare pork filling. Mix pork with all the filling ingredients except water and corn oil. Marinate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Heat corn oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Sauté marinated pork until cooked. Add water and let it simmer for 3–4 minutes. Set aside to cool.

2.

Prepare rice. In a wok over medium-high heat, add 50 ml corn oil and stir-fry shallots until slightly golden. Add rice and stir well. Add the remaining rice ingredients and fry until half-cooked. Set aside to cool.

3.

Prepare mushroom filling. Soak mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes until softened. Drain mushrooms, remove stems and slice caps into halves on the diagonal.

4.

In a frying pan over medium-high heat, add corn oil and sauté shallots until fragrant. Add mushrooms and the remaining mushroom filling ingredients. Fry for a couple of minutes until aromatic. Set aside to cool.

5.

Prepare chestnut filling. Blanch chestnuts in boiling water over high heat for 45 minutes. Leave to cool and remove any impurities that are stuck in the crevices with a toothpick.

6.

In a frying pan over medium-high heat, add corn oil and sauté shallots until fragrant. Add chestnuts and the remaining chestnut filling ingredients. Fry for a couple of minutes until chestnuts have absorbed the seasoning. Set aside to cool.

7.

Prepare shrimp filling. Soak shrimps in hot water for 25 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool.

8.

In a frying pan over medium-high heat, add corn oil and sauté shallots until fragrant. Add shrimps and cook for 1 minute. Add the remaining shrimp filling ingredients and stir until combined.

9.

Prepare wrapping. Fold bamboo leaves in half and tie with a reed string loosely. Submerge leaves and remaining reed strings in a pot of boiling water and boil for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from pot and dry with a cloth. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.

10. To wrap dumpling, take 2 bamboo leaves with their smooth sides facing you. Fold the leaves over themselves near the centre to form a cone. One end of the leaves should be higher than the other. 11. Place 1 Tbsp rice into the cone and make a dent in the rice. Add 1 or 2 pieces each of pork belly, mushrooms and chestnuts. Top with a few shrimps and a piece of salted egg yolk. Top with more glutinous rice until it reaches the brim of the cone. Wrap ends of leaves around the dumpling into a pyramid. Secure firmly with reed strings in a double knot. Do not tighten excessively as the dumpling will expand as it cooks. Repeat with remaining ingredients. 12. In a large pot, bring water to a boil and add 1 Tbsp salt when water boils. Submerge dumplings, cover the pot with a lid and boil for at least 2 hours until rice is tender. 13. Remove dumplings from heat and leave to drip dry. The dumplings can be eaten immediately or stored for 3–4 days in the refrigerator.

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Kee Chang This sweet dumpling is the easiest to make amongst the three rice dumplings. It goes well with home-made kaya or just sugar. Makes about 20 dumplings

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

20 dried bamboo leaves

1.

Prepare a steamer.

20 or more reed strings

2.

Fold bamboo leaves in half and tie with a reed string loosely. Submerge leaves and remaining reed strings in a pot of boiling water and boil for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from pot and dry with a cloth. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.

3.

Rinse glutinous rice until water is clear. Soak rice in lye water for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Rinse soaked rice to get rid of excess lye water. (If you wish to have a dumpling with a yellower tint, use solid orange lye. Pound the lye until powdery, add 1 Tbsp warm water and mix well. Soak rice in 1 tsp of the mixture instead of lye water.)

4.

To wrap dumpling, take 2 bamboo leaves with their smooth sides facing you. Fold the leaves over themselves near the centre to form a cone. One end of the leaves should be higher than the other.

5.

Place 11/ 2 Tbsp glutinous rice into the cone and press down lightly. Wrap ends of leaves around the dumpling into a pyramid. You should be able to hold the dumpling in one hand. Secure firmly with reed strings in a double knot. Make sure there are no tiny holes through which rice grains might escape. Trim away excess portion of leaves. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

6.

Steam dumplings for about 1 hour 30 minutes until rice is tender.

7.

Remove dumplings from heat and leave to drip dry. Let sit for 2 days before serving.

8.

Store for up to 1 week refrigerated or keep frozen for up to 2 months.

300 g glutinous rice 2 tsp lye water

NOTE This dumpling can be filled with red bean paste if desired. It can be served with kaya (coconut custard), lotus paste, palm sugar (gula melaka) sauce or granulated sugar.

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46

Spiral Curry Puffs I have given this recipe a modern twist, marrying Eastern and Western ingredients. Traditionally, only potatoes and chicken were used in the filling. Makes about 12 pieces

INGREDIENTS

Water dough 150 g plain (all-purpose) flour 60 g vegetable shortening 60 ml ice-cold water

Oil dough 100 g plain (all-purpose) flour + more as needed

2 medium onions, peeled and diced into pea-sized cubes 200 ml + more as needed water 180 g canned green peas, drained As needed salt As needed ground white pepper 30 quail eggs, boiled and shelled

Chicken fillet seasoning

60 g vegetable shortening

1 tsp concentrated chicken stock

A pinch of sea salt

1 Tbsp castor sugar

Filling 350 g chicken fillet, diced 550 g potatoes 3–4 Tbsp corn oil 3–4 sprigs curry leaves

1 Tbsp meat curry powder 1

/2 tsp chilli powder

1

/4 tsp ground turmeric

1

/4 tsp light soy sauce

1

/2 tsp fish sauce

Cornflour mixture 1 tsp cornflour 1 Tbsp water

NOTE You may roll the dough into a log just once, cut and proceed to the next step.

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METHOD

1.

Prepare water dough. Combine all water dough ingredients and knead mixture by hand for 2–3 minutes until a smooth dough forms. Leave dough to rest at room temperature for 15–20 minutes.

2.

Prepare oil dough. Combine all oil dough ingredients and knead mixture by hand for 2–3 minutes until a smooth dough forms. If dough is too sticky, add more plain flour a tablespoon at a time until a pliable dough forms. Leave dough to rest at room temperature for 15–20 minutes.

3.

On a lightly floured surface, flatten water dough into a disc and place oil dough on top. Wrap water dough around oil dough and seal the edges. Flatten combined dough into a square. Using a rolling pin, roll dough out as thinly as possible, about 0.5-cm thick. From one edge, roll dough into a log. Stand the log on its short end and flatten it into large rectangle. From one edge, roll dough into a log once again. Cut dough into 10 equal pieces. You may weigh the dough to divide it precisely. You should see a circular pattern when the log is sliced across. Set aside.

4.

Prepare filling. Combine chicken fillet with all chicken fillet seasoning ingredients in a bowl. Marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

5.

In a pot over high heat, parboil potatoes for 15–20 minutes. Remove skins and cut potatoes into pea-sized cubes. Set aside.

6.

In a wok over medium-high heat, heat corn oil. Sauté curry leaves and diced onions until onions are translucent. Add potatoes and cook for 1 minute.

7.

Add marinated chicken and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes until chicken is cooked. Add water and bring mixture to a boil. Add green peas and reduce the heat to low. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

8.

Stir occasionally as mixture cooks until potatoes soften and the mixture is reduced to a paste-like consistency. If the mixture becomes too dry, adjust by adding a tablespoonful of water at a time. Remove from heat and leave to cool before using.

9.

Prepare cornflour mixture. Mix cornflour and water together.

10. To form curry puffs, place a piece of dough with its circular pattern facing you and flatten it into a circle with a rolling pin. Place 1 Tbsp filling, and a quail egg in the centre. Fold dough over filling and seal the edges with some cornflour mixture. Start from one corner and pleat the side by pinching the edge and folding it in. 11. In a wok, heat an adequate amount of oil for deep-frying. Heat for 8–10 minutes or until bubbles start forming around the edge of an inserted chopstick. The oil is too hot if a small piece of dough thrown into it turns brown very quickly. Once the oil temperature is stable, place 1–2 curry puffs into the oil. Fry curry puffs, turning them over occasionally for 8–10 minutes or until golden. Increase the heat to high for 1 minute before removing curry puffs. Lay them on kitchen towels to absorb excess oil. Repeat with remaining curry puffs. 12. Serve warm.

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50

Huat Kuih This is a must for the Peranakans when they are giving offerings to their deceased ancestors or deities. It symbolises good fortune. Makes about 24 pieces

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

250 g palm sugar (gula melaka), crushed into small pieces

1.

Prepare a steamer and 24 baking cups.

2.

Boil palm sugar, pandan leaves and 150 ml water together until palm sugar is dissolved. Strain and leave to cool.

3.

Sift flour 3 times into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre.

4.

Pour cooled palm sugar mixture into the bowl and add coconut milk. Using hand whisk, whisk until the mixture is well combined and there are no lumps of flour.

5.

Dissolve bicarbonate of soda in 1 Tbsp hot water and add to the mixture. Whisk well and make sure that all ingredients are well combined.

6.

Pour batter into prepared cups until about three-quarters full and steam immediately for 25–30 minutes. To ensure an even steaming temperature so that the kuih will bloom, do not remove the lid when steaming.

7.

Remove from heat and serve warm.

4–5 pandan leaves 150 ml water 250 g plain (all-purpose) flour 30 ml coconut milk 1

/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 Tbsp hot water

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Kuih Talam Corn The traditional recipe for this two-layered kuih does not include corn. I added it as a treat for corn lovers as I love corn. Coconut makes this kuih extremely fragrant. Makes one 18-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

Corn layer

Coconut layer

45 g tapioca flour

100 g castor sugar

30 g mung bean (hoen kuih) flour

30 g tapioca flour

30 g rice flour

30 g mung bean (hoen kuih) flour

1 Tbsp custard powder

30 g rice flour

130 g castor sugar

200 ml water

450 ml coconut milk

1

1

500 ml coconut milk

/2 tsp salt

/2 tsp salt

1

1 /2 tsp egg yellow colouring 100 g cream sweet corn

NOTE Remove the steamer lid every 15 minutes to check that the water in the steamer has not dried up. Wipe away any condensed water on the lid to prevent it from dripping onto the kuih and creating an uneven surface.

METHOD

1.

Prepare a steamer. Line and grease an 18-cm square baking pan.

2.

Prepare corn layer. Combine tapioca flour, mung bean flour, rice flour, custard powder, sugar, coconut milk and salt. Strain mixture into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat until it thickens.

3.

Add colouring and cream sweet corn and mix well. Pour mixture into prepared baking pan and steam over high heat for about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

4.

Prepare coconut layer. Combine sugar, tapioca flour, mung bean flour, rice flour, water and salt in a saucepan and cook over low heat until smooth.

5.

Add coconut milk gradually and stir until it thickens.

6.

Remove from heat and pour over steamed corn layer. Steam over high heat for 25–30 minutes until both layers are set.

7.

Remove from heat and leave to cool for 1–2 hours. Slice with a sharp oiled knife to serve.

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Purple Sweet Potato Ondeh-Ondeh This kuih is a favourite at potluck parties. Whenever I am invited for one, the first dish requested would usually be this. One bite and you will be able to taste the delicious gula melaka filling. Makes about 20 pieces

INGREDIENTS

Dough

METHOD

1.

Prepare coating. In a steamer, steam grated coconut with pandan leaves over high heat for 20–25 minutes. Leave to cool completely. Add salt and mix well. Set aside.

2.

Prepare dough. Steam sweet potatoes over high heat for 20–25 minutes until tender. Mash sweet potatoes while they are still warm.

3.

Sift glutinous rice flour and wheat starch together 3 times. Add mashed sweet potatoes, corn oil and water. Mix and knead into a dough, making sure that the dough is smooth and spongy. Add more water if necessary.

4.

Divide dough into balls, each about 15 g. Flatten a ball, place some palm sugar in the centre and seal it well. This is to prevent the balls from splitting open while they cook. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

5.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium heat. Gently drop balls into boiling water. In 2–3 minutes, when ondeh-ondeh rise to the surface, remove immediately with a slotted spoon to drain excess water.

6.

Coat ondeh-ondeh immediately with grated coconut coating. Serve immediately.

110 g purple sweet potatoes, peeled 150 g glutinous rice flour 11/4 Tbsp wheat starch (tim sum flour) 1

/2 Tbsp corn oil

110 ml or more water

Filling 260 g palm sugar (gula melaka), processed until fine

Coating 260 g grated skinned coconut 8 pandan leaves 1

/4 tsp salt

NOTE If the ondeh-ondeh is not removed immediately from the water after rising to the surface, it may overcook. Feel free to adjust the size of the ondeh-ondeh as desired.

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56

Ang Ku Kuih Ku kuih is my second sister’s favourite. Before she became busy caring for her children, she used to make this for me whenever I requested for it. They are to die for, but they must be eaten on the very day they are made. Makes about 16 pieces

INGREDIENTS

Dough

Filling

300 g glutinous rice flour, sifted 2 Tbsp castor sugar

300 g mung beans, soaked overnight and drained

A pinch of salt

6 + 4 pandan leaves

200 ml boiling water

180 ml water

1

/4 tsp red food colouring

180 g castor sugar 5–6 Tbsp shallot oil

Base Banana leaves, cut into small squares, as needed 2 Tbsp shallot oil

NOTE To cook shallot oil, cut a few shallots into thin slices and fry in vegetable oil for 10–15 minutes until oil is fragrant. Strain the oil to remove the shallots.

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METHOD

1.

Prepare filling. In a steamer over high heat, steam mung beans and 6 pandan leaves for about 30 minutes until very soft. Discard pandan leaves.

2.

In another pot over medium-high heat, bring 180 ml water, 4 pandan leaves and sugar to a boil until sugar is dissolved. Discard pandan leaves.

3.

Using a food processor, combine mung beans and sugar syrup. Process until the mixture is a very smooth paste.

4.

In a wok, heat shallot oil and fry paste for about 10 minutes, stirring often to prevent paste from sticking to the bottom of the wok. Cook until paste is thick and firm to the touch. Leave to cool before rolling into balls, each about 20 g. Set aside.

5.

Prepare dough. Place glutinous rice flour, sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Add boiling water a little at a time until a pliable dough forms. The dough should be firm and able to hold its shape.

6.

Add red food colouring and mix well into the dough.

7.

Divide dough into balls, each about 25 g. Flatten a ball and place a ball of mung bean filling in its centre. Wrap dough around filling and roll until smooth. Dust with some glutinous rice flour. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

8.

Dust ku kuih moulds with glutinous rice flour. Press dough firmly into the moulds. Unmould by hitting the edge of the mould on a hard work surface.

9.

Prepare base. Brush banana leaf pieces with shallot oil. Place each kuih on a piece of banana leaf and brush with more shallot oil.

10. Place kuih in steamer and steam for about 5 minutes. Lift the lid of the steamer briefly before replacing it and steaming the kuih for a further 3–4 minutes. This ensures that the imprint on the kuih does not fade during the steaming process. 11. Remove from heat and leave to cool completely before serving.

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60

Kuih Lapis This is a baked kuih made with a blend of spices. Many Nyonyas would make it with their own spice blend and guard it as a family recipe. This is a must-have kuih for my nephew Meng Kiat at Chinese New Year. Makes one 20-cm square cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

120 g cake flour

1.

Preheat oven to 180°C. Line and grease a 20-cm square cake pan.

2.

Sift flour, allspice and cinnamon together 3 times. Set aside.

3.

Using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, cream butter and condensed milk at medium-high speed for about 3 minutes until creamy.

4.

In another clean mixing bowl and using a hand whisk, whisk egg yolks with 100 g icing sugar until thick.

5.

Gradually add egg yolk mixture to butter mixture and beat well to combine.

6.

Using an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, whisk egg whites in a clean bowl until foamy. Mix in cream of tartar. Add 70 g icing sugar gradually and whisk for 3–4 minutes until stiff peaks form.

7.

Alternate between folding small portions of egg white meringue and flour mixture into egg yolk mixture. Lastly, add brandy and incorporate well.

8.

Pour a ladle of batter into prepared cake pan. Place in oven and let batter melt for just under 30 seconds. Remove from the oven and swirl batter around in the pan to make a thin layer. Bake for 10 minutes or until the layer starts to brown. Remove browned layer from the oven.

9.

Switch the oven to grill mode and repeat the cooking process with the remaining batter, baking each layer until slightly brown. After each layer is browned, use a skewer to prick holes in it to remove any air bubbles and lightly press each layer with a kueh lapis press.

2 Tbsp ground allspice 2 tsp ground cinnamon 500 g unsalted butter, at room temperature 4 Tbsp condensed milk 28 medium egg yolks 100 g + 70 g icing sugar, sifted 5 medium egg whites 1

/2 tsp cream of tartar

3 Tbsp + more as desired brandy

NOTE Avoid opening the oven door while the cake is baking as it will result in a longer baking time. Store in an airtight container without refrigeration for up to 4 days or 1 week with refrigeration.

10. Once the final layer is browned, switch the oven to convection mode, reduce temperature to 160°C and bake the whole cake for 15–20 minutes. 11. Remove from the oven. Brush with more brandy if desired while cake is still warm. Remove cake from pan and leave to cool completely on a wire rack. Slice to serve.

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Pandan Chiffon Cake I grew up eating this cake just because I liked the fragrance of pandan leaves and everything green. Be sure to fold the flour and not beat it in or the cake will not turn out fluffy. Makes one 23-cm tube cake

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

180 g cake flour

1.

1

1 /2 tsp baking powder 7 medium egg yolks 90 ml corn oil

2.

Sift flour and baking powder together 3 times. Set aside.

3.

Using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment at medium speed, beat egg yolks, corn oil, pandan juice, flour mixture, 90 g sugar, coconut milk and pandan paste together for 3 minutes. The batter will be sticky. Set aside.

4.

Using the electric mixer with a whisk attachment, whisk egg whites in a clean bowl for 30 seconds. Add cream of tartar and continue whisking for another 30 seconds. Add 90 g sugar gradually and whisk for another 2–3 minutes until stiff peaks form.

5.

Stir one-third of egg white meringue into egg yolk batter and mix well.

6.

Pour the remaining meringue into the batter and fold in gently and quickly. Sharply tap the bowl containing the batter on a hard surface to release any air bubbles in the batter.

7.

Pour batter into prepared tube pan from one point and let it flow around the pan. Try not to shift the pan while pouring in the batter. This ensures that you do not introduce more air bubbles into the batter. After batter is poured, dredge a chopstick through the batter a few times to release any air bubbles that are still trapped. Smoothen the surface of the batter with a spatula.

8.

Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 150°C and bake for another 45 minutes.

9.

Remove from the oven. Leave cake in pan and place inverted on a wire rack to cool completely before unmoulding.

3 Tbsp pandan juice 90 g + 90 g castor sugar 100 ml coconut milk 11/2 tsp pandan paste 8 medium egg whites 1 tsp cream of tartar

NOTE Do not open the oven door while the cake is baking or the cake may collapse.

Preheat oven at 160°C. Prepare a 23-cm tube pan. Do not grease pan.

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Ang ChoTeh with Lotus Seeds Red date and logan tea is a traditional dessert made using a few simple ingredients. It is excellent for serving during festive occasions. Makes 1.5 litres

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

40 g lotus seeds

1.

Prepare lotus seeds. Split lotus seeds into halves and remove pith.

2.

In a pot, boil enough water to cover lotus seeds. Place lotus seeds into boiling water and boil for 20 minutes or until soft. Drain lotus seeds and set aside.

3.

In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring 1.5 litres water, pandan leaves and sugar to a boil until sugar dissolves.

4.

Reduce heat to low, add red dates and longans, and boil for 15–20 minutes.

5.

Add lotus seeds and simmer for another 10–15 minutes.

6.

Remove from heat and discard pandan leaves. This can be served hot or cold.

1.5 litres water 3–4 pandan leaves, torn into halves 40 g yellow rock sugar 40 g red dates 50 g dried longans

NOTE Do not wash lotus seeds in cold water. Always use warm water or the lotus seeds will not be soft and tender.

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Bubor Cha Cha This was my grandma’s favourite and this is her recipe with a twist. It is a delightful dessert with a variety of colours and textures from the sweet potatoes, yam and home-made tapioca balls. Makes 1.9 litres

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

180 g yellow sweet potato, peeled and cubed

1.

Prepare tapioca balls. Sift tapioca flour and bicarbonate of soda together 3 times.

180 g purple sweet potato, peeled and cubed

2.

Add corn oil to flour mixture and mix well. Pour in boiling water gradually and stir with a wooden spoon, making sure that no lumps form. You may not need to use all of the water. Add just enough water to knead mixture into a pliable dough.

3.

Divide dough into equal portions depending on the colours of the food colouring used. Add a different food colouring to each portion and knead until the colour is even. Leave dough to rest for 10–15 minutes at room temperature. Roll each dough portion into a long strip, cut into small cubes and roll cubes to form balls. Set aside.

4.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Gently add tapioca balls and boil for 20–25 minutes, until the balls float and appear translucent.

5.

Transfer tapioca balls to a bowl of iced water and stir well to stop the cooking process. Set aside and drain water from tapioca balls before using.

6.

In a lightly greased tray, steam purple sweet potatoes, yellow sweet potatoes and yam for about 15 minutes until 90% cooked. Remove from heat and leave to cool.

7.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 400 ml water, pandan leaves and rock sugar to a boil. Reduce heat and add coconut milk and salt. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

8.

To serve, place some sweet potatoes, yam and tapioca balls in individual serving bowls. Ladle coconut milk mixture into bowls. Serve hot or cold with ice cubes.

360 g yam, peeled and cubed 400 ml water 12 pandan leaves 180 g yellow rock sugar 800 ml coconut milk 3

/4 tsp salt

Tapioca balls 200 g tapioca flour 3

/4 tsp bicarbonate of soda

3 Tbsp corn oil 120 ml boiling water Food colouring of your choice, as desired NOTE It is important for the tapioca ball dough to rest at room temperature before cutting or rolling. Do not add too much food colouring or the colouring will seep into the coconut milk.

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Pulut Hitam Peranakans love sweet desserts and this dish is a sweet rice porridge flavoured with pandan and palm sugar. My dad loved it and always described it as “a Baba’s dish”, as according to him, men usually like to eat rice. Makes 2.3 litress

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

2 litres water

1.

In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring water, glutinous rice, pandan leaves and 1/4 tsp salt to a boil. Cook for about 1 hour 30 minutes until rice is tender. Stir frequently to prevent rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

2.

Add palm sugar and rock sugar and simmer until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and leave to cool. Discard pandan leaves.

3.

Place coconut milk and 1/4 tsp salt in a small pan and simmer over low heat. Remove from heat and leave to cool.

4.

To serve, scoop rice mixture into bowls and drizzle 2–3 Tbsp coconut milk mixture over each bowl. Serve warm.

300 g black glutinous rice, soaked overnight and drained 8 pandan leaves 1

/4 tsp + 1/4 tsp salt

80 g palm sugar (gula melaka) 50 g yellow rock sugar 200 ml coconut milk

NOTE After cooking, the rice mixture shouldn’t be too thick or watery. Dried longans can be added if desired.

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Basic Techniques SIZE OF EGGS I use either medium or large eggs in my recipes. As a guide, a medium egg weighs 60–65 g, while a large egg weighs 65–70 g.

SLICING KUIH To slice kuih cleanly, wrap a plastic knife with cling film. The knife should slice through the kuih cleanly. Do not saw the kuih.

BRINGING WATER TO A ROLLING BOIL It is important to bring water for steaming to a rolling boil before you add the item to the steamer. This ensures that the item will be cooked at the right temperature and is not undercooked.

Weights and Measures Quantities for this book are given in Metric and American (spoon and cup) measures. Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 teaspoon = 5 ml, 1 tablespoon = 15 ml, 1 cup = 250 ml. All measures are level unless otherwise stated. DRY MEASURES

LIQUID AND VOLUME MEASURES Metric

Imperial

American

Metric

Imperial

5 ml

1

/6 fl oz

1 teaspoon

30 grams

1 ounce

10 ml

1

/3 fl oz

1 dessertspoon

45 grams

11/2 ounces

15 ml

1

/2 fl oz

1 tablespoon

55 grams

2 ounces

/4 cup (4 tablespoons)

70 grams

21/2 ounces

60 ml

2 fl oz

1

85 ml

21/2 fl oz

1

/3 cup

85 grams

3 ounces

90 ml

3 fl oz

3

/8 cup (6 tablespoons)

100 grams

31/2 ounces

125 ml

4 fl oz

1

/2 cup

110 grams

4 ounces

180 ml

6 fl oz

3

/4 cup

125 grams

41/2 ounces

250 ml

8 fl oz

1 cup

140 grams

5 ounces

300 ml

10 fl oz (1/2 pint)

11/4 cups

280 grams

10 ounces

1

375 ml

12 fl oz

1 /2 cups

450 grams

16 ounces (1 pound)

435 ml

14 fl oz

13/4 cups

500 grams

1 pound, 11/2 ounces

500 ml

16 fl oz

2 cups

700 grams

11/2 pounds

625 ml

20 fl oz (1 pint)

750 ml

21/2 cups

800 grams

13/4 pounds

1

3 cups

1 kilogram

2 pounds, 3 ounces

3

24 fl oz (1 /5 pints)

1 litre

32 fl oz (1 /5 pints)

4 cups

1.5 kilograms

3 pounds, 41/2 ounces

1.25 litres

40 fl oz (2 pints)

5 cups

2 kilograms

4 pounds, 6 ounces

2

1.5 litres

48 fl oz (2 /5 pints)

6 cups

2.5 litres

80 fl oz (4 pints)

10 cups

OVEN TEMPERATURE °C Very slow

120

LENGTH °F 250

Gas Regulo 1

Metric

Imperial

0.5 cm

1

/4 inch /2 inch /4 inch

Slow

150

300

2

1 cm

1

Moderately slow

160

325

3

1.5 cm

3

Moderate

180

350

4

2.5 cm

1 inch

Moderately hot

190/200

370/400

5/6

Hot

210/220

410/440

6/7

Very hot

230

450

8

Super hot

250/290

475/550

9/10

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About the Author Allan Albert Teoh is a self-taught baker whose hobby of weekend baking flourished into a popular culinary enterprise, AllanBakes. Well known for his delicious cheesecakes, Allan was crowned one of the four Cheesecake Heavenly Kings in a countrywide contest organised by Lianhe Wanbao. Allan’s wonderful treats have also been recognised further afield at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2011 in Paris, where his first book, AllanBakes Really Good Cakes, clinched the Best Desserts Cookbook Award for Singapore. At the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2013, his second book, AllanBakes Really Good Treats, was named the Best Pastries Book for Singapore. Allan’s third book, AllanBakes Really Good Cheesecakes, was published in 2013. In 2012, Allan mentored the winner and runner-up of the Junior MasterChef Australia (Season 2) when they visited Singapore to do a cooking demonstration at the Singapore Expo. Subsequently, Allan became a full-time culinary coach and consultant. In 2017, Allan joined Chef ’s Secrets Cooking & Baking Resource Centre as a partner. Allan continues to share his recipes and love for baking through the culinary workshops that he conducts at private cooking schools and community centres.