Advanced woven fabric design 9789385059414, 9789385059988, 938505998X

Table of contents :
Advanced Woven Fabric Design......Page 1
Copyright......Page 4
Contents......Page 6
Preface......Page 10
Foreword......Page 11
1.1 Methods to increase the weight of fabrics......Page 13
1.2.1 Principle of extra thread figuring......Page 14
1.2.3 Methods of disposing of the surplus extra threads......Page 15
1.3 Extra warp figuring......Page 16
1.3.2 Spot designs for extra warp......Page 17
1.3.3.2 Weft winding arrangements......Page 19
1.3.5 Denting in extra thread figuring......Page 20
1.3.7 Intermittent figuring in one extra warp......Page 21
1.3.8 Cut-in effects and clipped spot effects in extra warp......Page 22
1.3.9 Extra warp figured effects......Page 25
1.3.11 Extra warp planting......Page 27
1.4.1 Loom equipment and notation in point paper designs......Page 28
1.4.5 Cut-in effects in extra weft......Page 29
1.4.6 Ornamentation in extra weft figuring......Page 32
1.4.10 Stitching in of extra weft fabrics......Page 33
1.4.14 Chintzing......Page 35
1.5 Differences between extra warp and extra weft......Page 36
1.6 Differences between backed clothes and extra thread figuring......Page 37
2.1 Introduction......Page 38
2.2.1 Development of warp-backed cloth......Page 39
2.4.1 Condition for reversibility......Page 41
2.4.2 Backed fabrics with standard twill weaves......Page 42
2.4.3 Beaming and drafting of backed clothes......Page 43
2.4.4 Advantages of warp-backed fabrics......Page 44
2.5 Weft-backed fabrics......Page 45
2.5.2 Construction of weft-backed clothes with twill weaves......Page 46
2.6.2 Method of arranging wadding at the centre of two layers......Page 49
2.7 Weft-backed warp wadded clothes......Page 50
2.8 Warp-backed weft wadded cloth......Page 51
2.9 Imitation effects in backed clothes......Page 52
2.10 Interchanging effects in weft-backed fabrics......Page 53
2.11 Differences between backed clothes and extra thread figuring......Page 54
2.12 Differences between warp-backed and weft-backed clothes......Page 55
3.1 Introduction......Page 56
3.2.1 Self-stitched double clothes......Page 57
3.2.2 Arrangement of threads......Page 59
3.2.3 Selection of weaves: In general......Page 60
3.3 Development of simple double clothes (self-stitched)......Page 61
3.4 Self-stitched double cloth with different combinations......Page 64
3.5 Beaming and drafting of double clothes......Page 65
3.8 Centre warp stitched double clothes......Page 66
3.9 Centre weft stitched double clothes......Page 68
3.10 Wadded double clothes......Page 71
3.10.2 Weft wadded double clothes......Page 72
3.11.1 Types of threads and RTP in IC double clothes......Page 74
3.11.2 Systematic construction of IC double clothes......Page 75
3.13 Differences between backed clothes and double clothes......Page 77
4.2 Methods of stitching......Page 78
4.3 Construction of treble clothes......Page 80
4.4 Beaming of treble clothes......Page 81
4.6 Treble clothes with dissimilar weaves in the different fabric layers (Fig. 4.3 to Fig. 4.6)......Page 82
4.7 Use of the centre layer as wadding (Fig. 4.6)......Page 85
5.2 Classification of pile fabrics......Page 86
5.3 Terry pile fabrics......Page 87
5.4.1 Introduction......Page 89
5.4.2 Research studies on terry towels......Page 90
5.4.3 Research studies on chemical processing of terry......Page 92
5.4.6 Approaches for production of terry pile fabrics......Page 94
5.6.1 Number of filling colours, warp stop, and types of weft insertion......Page 96
5.6.2 Filling insertion with rapiers......Page 97
5.7 Terry fabrics produced by means of terry motion......Page 99
5.7.2 Loop or pile formation in terry and terry motions......Page 100
5.8 Take-up......Page 105
5.9 Selvedges on terry loom......Page 106
5.9.1 Leno selvedge......Page 107
5.10 Types of terry motions (fast reed or loose reed)......Page 108
5.11 Terry designing......Page 110
5.12 Classification of terry towels......Page 111
5.13 Fibres suitable for terry towels......Page 112
5.15 Designing of terry towel and the requirements of a terry towel......Page 113
5.16.4 Border weft......Page 114
5.18 Formation of pile......Page 115
5.20.1 Spinning......Page 117
5.20.4 Let off (conventional looms)......Page 118
5.20.5 Let off (unconventional looms)......Page 120
5.20.10 Gery fabric inspection and rolling......Page 121
5.20.11 Post-weaving of terry towels......Page 122
5.21.2 Fabric dyeing......Page 123
5.21.7 Mechanical......Page 124
5.22 Quality control aspects of terry towels......Page 125
5.23 Economics of terry production......Page 126
5.24 Characterization of terry towel fabrics......Page 127
5.25 Modern developments in terry production......Page 128
5.26 G6200 rapier weaving machine......Page 129
References......Page 131
6.1 Introduction......Page 133
6.2.1 Plain back velveteens......Page 135
6.2.1.3 Changing the density of the pile......Page 138
6.3 Fast pile structures......Page 140
6.4 Twill back velveteens......Page 141
6.4.2 Qualities of all over velveteens......Page 142
6.6.1 Ribbed velveteen......Page 143
6.6.2 Corduroys......Page 145
6.6.2.1 Corduroy cutting......Page 146
6.8 Figured corduroy......Page 147
7.2 Types of threads used in cross weaving and RTP......Page 148
7.5.1 Bottom douping......Page 149
7.6 Position of crossing and standard ends......Page 150
7.7 Loom equipment necessary for cross weaving......Page 151
7.7.2 Facilities for cross weaving......Page 152
7.8 Basic sheds formed in gauze and leno......Page 153
7.8.1 Open shed......Page 154
7.8.3 Closed shed and plain shed......Page 157
7.9.1 Simple leno with ordinary doup wires......Page 158
7.9.2 Leno on 10 picks with single side slotted doup wire......Page 160
7.10 Easer or slackener......Page 163
7.10.1 Positive easing motion......Page 165
7.12 Differences between gauze and leno......Page 167
8.2 Classification of damask......Page 169
8.3 Self-twilling jacquard for damask production......Page 171
8.3.1.1 Pressure harness......Page 174
8.3.1.2 Bannister harness......Page 177
8.4 Methods of preparing damask designs......Page 178
8.6 Commercial damask fabrics (arrangement off igures in jacquard weaving)......Page 179
8.7.1 Developing applied design for brocade fabrics......Page 180
8.8 Comparison of damask and brocade......Page 181
9.1 Introduction......Page 182
9.2.1 Case – I: Single-layered structure......Page 183
9.2.3 Need for fabric analysis......Page 184
9.2.4 Procedure for fabric analysis and design......Page 185
9.3.2 Threads/unit space......Page 190
9.3.3 Yarn count......Page 191
9.3.4 Fabric cover......Page 192
9.4 Fabric analysis sheet: Simple structures......Page 193
9.5 Advanced fabric analysis sheet......Page 194
Appendix......Page 195