A Curious and Convivial Traveller: Edgar Roger Pratt in Greece and Egypt, 1832-34 (British Museum Publications on Egypt and Sudan) [Annotated] 9789042939639, 9789042939646, 904293963X

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BRITISH MUSEUM PUBLICATIONS ON EGYPT AND SUDAN 6

A CURIOUS AND CONVIVIAL TRAVELLER EDWARD ROGER PRATT IN GREECE AND EGYPT 1832–34 Patricia USICK

PEETERS

A CURIOUS AND CONVIVIAL TRAVELLER: EDWARD ROGER PRATT IN GREECE AND EGYPT 1832–34

BRITISH

MUSEUM

PUBLICATIONS

ON

EGYPT

AND

SUDAN

A CURIOUS AND CONVIVIAL TRAVELLER

EDWARD ROGER PRATT IN GREECE AND EGYPT 1832–34

Patricia USICK

PEETERS LEUVEN – PARIS – BRISTOL, CT 2020

6

Cover illustration: Edward Roger Pratt aged 71 (Fig. 1), a canopic jar from his collection (Fig. 24), and his drawings: Edfu Temple (Album page 93), Medinet Habu Temple (Album page 78), a throne of Rameses III (Album page 64) and a plan of the Valley of the Kings (Fig. 46).

A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN 978-90-429-3963-9 eISBN 978-90-429-3964-6 D/2020/0602/131 © 2020, Peeters, Bondgenotenlaan 153, B-3000 Leuven, Belgium No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage or retrieval devices or systems, without the prior written permission from the publisher, except the quotation of brief passages for review purposes.

CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .........................................................................................................................................

VII

INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................................................

1

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT .......................................

27

THE JOURNAL FOR GREECE AND EGYPT ..............................................................................................................

37

PRATT’S

EGYPT..................................................................................

67

THE ALBUM ........................................................................................................................................................

75

POSTSCRIPT .........................................................................................................................................................

355

BIBLIOGRAPHY.....................................................................................................................................................

427

SELECT INDEX OF PLACES ...................................................................................................................................

431

SELECT INDEX OF PEOPLE ...................................................................................................................................

435

OWN

HAND-DRAWN MAPS

AND

PLANS

OF

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS When the Department of Egypt and Sudan at the British Museum purchased two stelae from Piers Pratt of Ryston Hall, Norfolk, in 2001 and 2007, Curator John Taylor discovered that the family still retained the journal and album of drawings made by Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1863), who had travelled to Greece and Egypt in 1832–34 and formed a collection of Egyptian antiquities. John was kind enough to allow me to research the Pratt material and consequently Neal Spencer, Keeper of the Department of Egypt and Sudan, arranged for its publication. I am deeply indebted to them both. John Taylor was also an invaluable source of information on the Egyptian antiquities in the Pratt collection. Thanks are also due to Claire Thorne for creating the maps of Greece and Egypt, Carolyn Jones for her painstaking editorial support and Kevin Lovelock and Claudio Mari for their photography. Sarah Pratt has been unfailingly kind and helpful in every way, always facilitating my research, which continued over several years. My final request to go through the basement and attic rooms was not just allowed but actively shared, and it was Sarah who discovered the photographic portrait of Edward Roger Pratt. All my colleagues at the British Museum have kindly and cheerfully helped with my constant queries and technical difficulties, frequently leaving important work to rescue me at my computer.

INTRODUCTION

Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1863) (Fig. 1) was an inveterate traveller and a consistent, if laconic, diarist. As the landowner of a large estate in Norfolk, he spent each summer socializing his way around Europe and from 1832 to 1834 he extended his annual tour to take in more adventurous journeys through Greece and Egypt, reaching Smyrna and Constantinople. Pratt left England on 4 September 1832, aged fortythree, and had arrived in Greece by the end of the month. Travelling through Greece until June 1833, he then returned to Italy where he joined family members, spending the rest of the summer in Switzerland. In the autumn he set out for Alexandria, arriving in December 1833, and then undertook a solo Nile voyage, travelling as far as Wadi Halfa at the Second Cataract. While the drawings he made in Greece cannot be located, his journal from Egypt (Fig. 2) was supplemented by a large scrapbook album filled with his own drawings and paintings. By 1834 a Nile journey was no longer the prerogative of the intrepid explorer into uncharted territory. As early as 1817 Count Forbin, travelling to collect antiquities for the Louvre, had been shocked to have his romantic and sublime visions of the ruins of the great temple of Karnak eroded by the prosaic presence of Lord Belmore and his family, nursemaid and baby included. In 1820 William John Bankes’s voyages had seen him hailed in London society as ‘The Nubian Explorer’, but so many international travellers had taken to the Nile following the end of the Napoleonic wars, and under the protection of the Europhile Pasha Muhammad Ali, that a lone traveller such as Pratt could rely on copious advice and instructions for the journey and letters of introduction to residents and compatriots en route. Pratt experienced more danger travelling in Greece than in Egypt. The Revd Lieder,1

a missionary, who journeyed the Nile in the same year while accompanying Lady Jane Franklin (Fig. 3),2 noted that they had only remained in their boats on the rocky rapids of the cataract because of her explicit wish ‘to try the adventure’ and experience the thrill and danger, while he, having previously made the voyage in 1829, would have preferred ‘to avoid unnecessary perils’.3 As Captain Charles Rochfort Scott, who made the

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2

Johann Rudolph Theophilus Lieder, a German-born missionary sent to Egypt in 1826 by the Church Missionary Society of England. Lady Jane Franklin (1791–1875), traveller and second wife of the Arctic explorer Sir John Franklin.

Fig. 1 Edward Roger Pratt aged 71.

From Lieder’s ‘Report’ of his journey addressed to the Secretaries at Church Missionary House. Church Missionary Society Archives, Birmingham, CMS/B/OMS/C M 048/118B Journey to Upper Egypt and Nubia as far as Wadi Halfa, Feb.–May 1834 [copy].

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INTRODUCTION

Fig. 2 The Journal for Greece and Egypt.

Fig. 3 Lady Jane Franklin, modelled from her portrait aged 23 (courtesy of Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)).

voyage from Malta to Egypt with Pratt, observed, to travel the Nile, a gun, except for amusement, was no longer required as ‘the country has been thoroughly cleared of the bands of wandering Arabs that formerly infested it, and the European costume is, in most cases, sufficiently imposing, to ensure the civility and attention of the local authorities’ (although it was still advisable to be provided with a passport).4 Furthermore, the wearing of Turkish costume by Europeans, once seen as a necessary disguise for security, was now deemed by Scott to be not merely ‘ludicrous’ but ‘both impractical and dangerous if accompanied by a scimitar’ (Scott 1837, 50). Travellers might collect antiquities or inscribe their names on conspicuous parts of the temples, and some published their findings on their return

with descriptions of the ancient monuments and digressions on the manners and customs of the inhabitants. Lieder sent his sponsors in London, the Church Missionary Society, detailed reports of the progress, or rather the lack of it, in his attempts to bring the gospel to the indigenous Egyptians. Two colonels, Needham and Forbes, also travelling the Nile in 1834, although considered by Lady Jane Franklin to be indifferent to the ruins, had purchased two mummies at Thebes which they kept on the roof of their boat.5 One of these was subsequently unrolled in Canterbury in 1844 by T. J. Pettigrew, ‘after a lurid address’ to the leading families of the town at the annual meeting of The British Archaeological Association.6 Tourist guide books were not yet in use, although from 1827 The Modern

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Captain Charles Rochfort Scott (c. 1790–1872), British army officer, was later a Major-General and Lieutenant Governor of Guernsey. Lady Jane Franklin’s Egyptian Journal, 11 March and 28 February 1834. (Quoted in Russell 1997, 228).

The Illustrated London News, 21 September 1844. The mummy was ‘said to have been brought from Thebes by Colonel Needham’.

INTRODUCTION

3

Traveller series included a section on Egypt, Nubia and Abyssinia, and Jean-Jacques Rifaud’s Tableau de l’Égypte, de la Nubie et des lieux circonvoisins: ou itinéraire à l’usage des voyageurs qui visitent ces contrées (Paris, 1830) contained some helpful advice (Oliver 2014, 198–200). Captain Scott, in common with others, had furnished himself with previous travellers’ accounts: those of Sir Frederick Henniker, Dr Richardson and Col. Light are mentioned. JeanFrançois Champollion and Ippolito Rosellini’s multivolume publications of their scholarly joint archaeological expedition of 1828–29 would appear between 1835 and 1845 and advance the more scientific study of the history, archaeology and language of ancient Egypt, initiated by Napoleon’s seminal 1798–1801 expedition. Lady Franklin wrote to her husband that ‘The best guide book on Egypt will probably be that which it is understood Mr Wilkinson lately went to England to publish, he has lived many years in this country and is believed to know more than any person living of its antiquities and hieroglyphics’ (Franklin MS 248/172, 66). This was John Gardner Wilkinson’s Manners and Customs, published 1837. She also advised her husband to obtain Wilkinson’s map: The topography of Thebes and general view of Egypt (London, 1835). Meanwhile Lady Franklin was furnished with ‘an abridged copy of his instructions to a traveller on the Nile which he [Wilkinson] gave to Dr Hogg, and which the latter knowing I had not time to copy it at Malta, has been so very good natured as to write out in part and send it off to me here’.7 Wilkinson’s Modern Egypt and Thebes: Being a description of Egypt; including the information required for travellers in that country, was published in 1843. Pratt’s motivation for visiting Egypt is unclear, but a sheer love of travel itself is evident from his lifestyle; abroad or at home he is constantly on the move. Despite his many diaries, we know so little about him that it is hard to say what prompted this particular journey. He was not a member of the Travellers Club,8 although the extent and activity of his travels would certainly have qualified him. He barely notes collecting antiquities,

yet he certainly acquired a number of ancient Egyptian pieces such as canopic jars (which contained the organs of the mummified deceased), bronze figures, and small shabti figurines,9 which were buried with the deceased to work for them in the afterlife. He also obtained large and important stelae, with some pieces of his collection perhaps obtained in Egypt, and others in London on his return. Despite these interests he was not a member of the Society of Antiquaries of London. He makes few biblical allusions, he did not travel for his health, and though he joined up with like-minded companions in Greece, he travelled alone on the Nile. Few intellectual interests are apparent from his lifetime habit of daily jottings; yet a classical education had given him a passion for ancient sites and their monuments, nothing of interest is left unexplored, and he responds with anger to any signs of destruction or defacement. He has read the ancient Greek historians Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus on ancient Egypt, and is familiar with the Society of Dilettanti’s publications on Greece, although not a member of the Society himself. He mentions Ippolito Rosellini’s publication I Monumenti dell’Egitto e della Nubia in 1836, and had evidently studied the work of Dominique Vivant Denon, who accompanied Napoleon’s Egyptian expedition, since he added relevant cuttings from Denon’s publication Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte (Denon 1802) to his own work in his Egyptian album, but few further sources are mentioned. It appears, however, that the main guide for his own journey may have been the most recent and perhaps the most erudite publication: Champollion’s own diaries and letters written in Egypt from the Franco-Tuscan expedition of 1828–29 and published in 1833. The letters, written to his brother Champollion-Figeac, were available even earlier since they were published in Le Moniteur, a French newspaper, as and when they arrived (Champollion c. 1986, XXI). The combination of Pratt’s journal and the accompanying scrapbook album for Egypt full of his own tracings and drawings, together with his important collection of Egyptian antiquities, shows that he had more than a tourist’s interest in the monuments and their history.

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8

Presumably Edward Hogg (Hogg 1835). A gentlemen’s club in Pall Mall established in 1819 exclusively for those who had travelled at least 500 miles from London in a direct line.

Also known as ‘ushabti’.

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INTRODUCTION

Diaries and journals Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1863) was named after his father, Edward Roger Pratt senior (1756–1838) (Fig. 4), and was the heir to the house and estates of Ryston Hall in Norfolk. The estates included Fordham, Ryston, Roxham, West Dereham, Bexwell, Denver and Hilgay. In 1883 it was said that the Pratt family (Fig. 5) was one of the six Norfolk families mentioned by Sir Henry Spelman as living upon their property, in the male line for more than 300 years (Kelly’s Directory, 482). The family can trace their pedigree back to 1332 and in 1527 William Pratt purchased the manors of Ryston and Walpole Hall. Ryston Hall was built in 1670 by Pratt’s ancestor, the architect Sir Roger Pratt, as his own home (Fig. 6), and later extensively remodelled around 1780 (Fig. 7) by Sir John Soane, a Grand Tour acquaintance of Edward Roger Pratt senior. Edward Roger Pratt junior, our traveller, was the eldest of thirteen children, ten of whom survived to adulthood.10 His mother Pleasance (Fig. 8), née Brown, died in 1807 when he was eighteen years old. He kept a regular daily journal from the age of fourteen; just a line or two for each day indicating where he was, who he was with and what he was doing. In addition he kept several travel journals recording journeys of particular interest in England and abroad, spent touring and sketching, and latterly including the names of the many people he met. Unlike many other travellers he did not visit the Holy Land from Egypt, perhaps due to the disruption of the Siege of Jerusalem that year. This took place during the 1834 Arab revolt in Palestine, which had erupted following the 1831 incursion of Egyptian general Ibrahim Pasha into Ottoman Syria and his subsequent military conscription demand upon the Arab villagers of the region. It would otherwise seem to be an extraordinary omission for such a curious traveller, although there is only a single biblical reference in his journals: a query as to whether the Israelites might have constructed a mud-brick wall at the site of Elkab in Egypt. His annual summer trips to the Continent were simply recorded in the diaries in his usual spontaneous and

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Henrietta-Blanch 1790–1790; Phillip Browne 1791–1794; Blanch 1793–1863; Jermyn 1794–1794; Henry 1795–1860; Maria 1797–1865, Walter Jermyn Murray 1798–1867; Robert

Fig. 4 Edward Roger Pratt senior by F. Ferriere, 1799.

succinct fashion. They were largely spent in Switzerland, with Lausanne as his base; he rarely stayed more than a day or so in any single place before moving on. From about 1840, two years after the death of his father (when presumably his responsibilities increased), the daily journal entries tail off to a mere half-dozen lines per year, ending completely in 1850. Occasionally Pratt’s journals (Fig. 9) mention his making drawings in Switzerland, Italy and Greece, but these do not appear to have remained among the family papers at Ryston Hall. However, in Egypt he drew, painted and traced numerous temples and tombs, landscapes, and reliefs, and these were compiled into a large album of 136 pages, many holding four or five separate images. He added many illustrative prints from Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte (Paris, 1802), and, unusually for a traveller at that period with no declared interest in ancient Egypt, took

1799–1854; Lucy 1801–1854; Charles Browne 1802–1822; Harriet 1803–1883; William 1804–1874.

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 5 Portraits of the Pratt family. (Annotated as: centre: Edward Roger Pratt senior, flanked by his wife’s parents, Mr Sam Brown and his wife, née Hester Case, and below him his wife Pleasance. Top left: ‘Blanche Astley, child’ and top right ‘Edward Pratt, child’ [probably Pratt’s grandfather Edward, d. 1784, and grandmother Blanch Astley]. Bottom right ‘Mr Case, Grandfather’, bottom left: ‘Edward Pratt’ [Pratt’s grandfather]).

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INTRODUCTION

a number of squeezes of reliefs: facsimile images from damped and pressed paper over which he inked outlines. He refers to these in his journal as ‘stamps’. Knowledge of this technique may have been due to the influence of Robert Hay (Fig. 10), the antiquarian and collector, and his artist A. Dupuy, whom Pratt met on his Nile voyage. Hay had travelled extensively in Egypt between 1824 and 1834, recording sites and monuments

himself and employing artists such as Dupuy and Joseph Bonomi. His extensive collection of antiquities and plaster casts from Egypt eventually came to the British Museum; his papers, which hold much valuable information, are in the British Library. Pratt’s own landscapes showing monuments are quite accomplished, mainly using ink and wash, with a smaller number in full watercolour. The occasional local figure is added

Fig. 6 Ryston Hall (1669–72) as built by Sir Roger Pratt.

Fig. 7 Ryston Hall (with Soane additions).

Fig. 8 A portrait of Pratt’s mother Pleasance, née Brown.

Fig. 9 Pratt’s 1816 diary for Switzerland and Italy.

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INTRODUCTION

for scale, and some architectural details are noted. Pratt recorded what were at that time some rarely visited sites and many which have subsequently suffered deterioration, and he eagerly sought out particular monuments of interest, using as a guide the volumes of Denon and Champollion. His album records a large number of the sites between Alexandria and the Second Cataract. At home and abroad Rather charmingly the first page of Pratt’s earliest diary records the year of his birth, 1789, on 14 July, with the entry ‘The Bastille taken…’, followed by ‘26 September – Edward Roger Pratt born’. Just a scattering of entries through the end of the century record both personal and historical events, from the birth in 1797 of Sir J[acob] Astley, 6th Baronet (his first cousin, whose name features in the diaries),11 to entries noting major events: the guillotining of Louis XVI, and British victories at the Battle of Cape St Vincent, the Battle of the Nile, and the Battle of Alexandria. There is no mention of his schooling and he is not recorded as having been to Eton although his brothers Jermyn (his eventual heir), Robert, Charles and William were all sent there. In April 1803, at the age of fourteen, Pratt ‘went to S. Weald to Mr Elwin’.12 Elwin accompanied him in July to Cromer with his brother Henry, then from October to December to stay with the Revd Charles Collyer and his wife Sarah (née Pratt, his aunt) of Gunthorpe Hall, and the following year on a tour of ‘the Lakes’. In the Lake District he noted visiting Keswick in July and climbing Skiddaw in August. In 1805 he made a tour of Devonshire, recorded in a specific journal of that year, and in 1807 a tour of Wales was similarly written up.13 In contrast to the very brief entries for his later journals of Greece and Egypt, his travels in Wales at the age of eighteen are recorded at length with an eye for the Romantic and picturesque aspects of the landscape, and the architecture of its towns, castles, churches and abbeys is described in serious and earnest tones (Fig. 11). After walking the 11

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Pratt’s mother Pleasance Brown’s sister Hester married Sir Jacob Henry Astley, 5th Baronet (1756–1817). In 1751 Edward Pratt of Ryston had married Blanch, only daughter of Sir Jacob Astley 3rd Baronet (NRO, PRA 516, 517). By 1836 a Revd Caleb Elwin was Rector of the parish of Melton-Constable-with-Burgh-Parva, which was in the patronage of Sir Jacob Astley. He attended the funeral of Pratt’s father. NRO, PRA 746.

Fig. 10 Robert Hay (1799–1863).

Fig. 11 Pratt’s journal for Wales.

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INTRODUCTION

celebrated vale, he left Llangollen ‘a little disappointed with it but the view was most delightful’. A reference is made to ‘my book of antiquities’, where he appears to have recorded some monuments separately. A walking tour of Yorkshire in 1810 is equally fully described and the ‘sublime & stupendous’ scenery with monuments of ‘beauty and antiquity’ delighted him. This was followed in 1812 by a tour of Scotland, and in 1813, Ireland (Fig. 12). The date 20 October 1808 finds him at Trinity College, Cambridge:14 ‘My father gave me 30£ the morning I started’. Brief accounts for 1812 and 1815 show payments to the Burser, Proctor and Dean of his college, to which he returned in 1815 to take his Master’s degree. His general accounts for 1808–21 are dealt with scrupulously in a separate notebook with entries for monies received and for every item of his expenditure (Fig. 13).15 The entries cover his entertainments, such as visits, balls and travel costs, and his personal needs from his silk stockings to his newspapers. The entertainments include operas, concerts and plays, as well as Astley’s circus and Bullocks Museum, the latter a museum of natural curiosities exhibited in the newly built Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. Pratt spent two shillings to view the ‘Hottentot Venus’ in London in 1811: this was Sarah Baartman, a Khoekhoe aboriginal woman from South Africa who had been brought to London the previous year for the purpose of exhibition. Framed prints and etchings, sheet music (Handel’s Overtures), drawing and painting materials, history books, poetry and the works of Boileau are also purchased. A guinea to ‘Hodsworth for violin’ and seventeen shillings for ‘violin strings’ could relate to the four pounds and eleven shillings to ‘Haque’ for thirteen lessons, while substantially larger amounts are noted as ‘paid to Mr Elwin for bills paid by him’. In 1815, his brother Henry, whom he had earlier visited at Mr Knollis’s quasi-preparatory school in Maidenhead for entrants to the Royal Military College, joined the army (Fig. 14). The following year, 1816, Pratt embarked on the first of a series of ‘Grand Tours’, visiting the South of France, Genoa, Pisa, Rome, Arezzo, Florence, Bologna and Milan, and Switzerland. He remained on the Continent for three years, keeping a separate journal in 1817 of his travels in the South of

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Venn and Venn 1953. (Unlike other graduates, no school is given for Pratt, suggesting that he was privately tutored.) NRO, PRA 747.

Fig. 12 Pratt’s list of his early travels.

Fig. 13 Pratt’s personal accounts, 1808–1821.

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INTRODUCTION

France and studying Italian.16 The 1817 journal is written in French, and contains some detailed descriptive passages on the Roman monuments of the region. He also notes stories of terrible famine in France following Napoleon’s defeat, and mentions the drawings he is making, particularly of Mont Blanc. The journal gives a lively description of his travels and of a busy social life, resulting from letters of introduction but also chance meetings and spontaneous conversations. The pattern of these journals in recording encounters with many expatriates and travellers, all named (some of whom, such as Coenraad Jacob Temminck, the Dutch zoologist, are experts in their fields), is already apparent, as is his habit of recording the prices paid for his travel, lodgings and meals. When in France or Switzerland, his long diary of 1789–1849 switches back and forth between English and the French language with apparent ease. He became a regular member of the social circle in Lausanne, and between 1817 and 1822 was in regular correspondence in French with Mme G. de Chatelanat, a married lady who, in the role of confidante, supplied him with all the news and gossip of the town where everyone asked after him.17 She castigated him for arousing the expectations of the young ladies, and for flirting with Elisa: ‘je ne sais si la dernière ne compte point sur vous, vous avez tant dit de belles choses’ [I don’t know if the latter is not counting on you, you have so often said lovely things to her], warning him that the number of eligible girls was decreasing. She also comments on his bachelor status, writing on 26 October 1821 to say that if she is not mistaken he will be thirty-two in a few days and they had agreed that if he had not married by thirty-five, he should no longer consider it. Since only three years remain, he should seriously occupy himself with this project. From his letters she concludes, however, that he is enjoying life: ‘que vous vous portez bien, que vous avez un activité infatigable, que vous vous trouvez heureux et fort content de la bonne vie que vous menez…’ [that you are well, that you have indefatigable energy, that you are happy and very content with the good life that you lead]. Once home, Pratt’s life remained peripatetic, with regular stops at Ryston in a ceaseless round of visits elsewhere: hunting, shooting, fishing, hawking and in

wintertime skating on local ponds or the Serpentine in London, with frequent visits to the races, plays and concerts, and local balls. Journal entries frequently mention the planting-out of various parts of his estates, and he noted down the numbers of different species killed at individual shoots. Events much beyond his regular routine remain unrecorded, with the exception of a local crime or scandal, or local politics. The shooting of a poacher ‘in the Denver Spinney’ and the results of the 1822 elections for Cambridge, for example, merit inclusion: ‘the election voted for Scarlett. Bankes came in agst Ld Hervey & Scarlett’, as does the great storm of 1823 which brought down trees near the house and wrecked three ships at Cley. He noted that the sailors made tents on the bank from the sails while the inhabitants of Cley were ‘pulling to pieces the Wreck’. In 1823 and 1824 he again visited the Continent, this now becoming more or less an annual event. His sisters and brother, Maria, Harriet and William, joined him abroad in 1825, and in Paris they ‘saw Talma’, the

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The journal ‘E. R. P. Pratt, June 1817–August, Midi de [?Cour], France’ (NRO, PRA 675) covers the journey to the South of France.

Fig. 14 Col. Henry Pratt, 4th Dragoon Guards.

NRO, PRA 749.

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INTRODUCTION

leading actor of the Comédie Française, and Pratt, who seems to have had an interest in wildlife which went beyond shooting it, caught butterflies at Fontainebleau. A glimpse of his sensitivity is seen in his closeness to his siblings and his sympathy for the mental distress suffered by his sister Harriet, who had been taken ill in Lausanne. He later describes her as ‘much better in bodily health but otherways very unwell’. He recorded that at Calais: ‘Harriet whilst walking with me on the jetty cried much from which time she became gradually better’. In London, the following year, Pratt and his siblings were scandalized by the elopement of Lady Georgiana Astley, wife of their Norfolk cousin Sir Jacob Astley Bt MP, with her lover Tom Garth, rumoured to be the natural son of General Garth and Princess Sophia, a daughter of George II (Fig. 15). Their affair had been ‘the talk of the whole town’ and Pratt’s sister Blanch ‘said she did not know what to do’. By July ‘the Dowager had recd. a letter from Elwin to say that lady A: was gone off’. No doubt to everyone’s horror, two separate satirical cartoons appeared, one entitled ‘A scene for a new peice [sic] at Astley’s Theatre!’, the other ‘A change of performance at Astley’s or a Pollution of Jacob’s ladder’.18 The Pratt family continued more sedately, with Lucy and Harriet both marrying and William off to Cambridge. While recording many family weddings, Pratt himself never married, and was succeeded by his brother the Revd Jermyn Pratt. No affairs of the heart on Pratt’s part are confided to his journal, although he evidently had an eye for beautiful women met at consular balls abroad who are frequently referred to anonymously as ‘la bella Greca’, ‘la bella Veneziana’ or simply ‘la belissima’. Whether in Norfolk, London or abroad, the diary is peppered with the names of the friends and acquaintances with whom he is socializing; he rarely appears to have dined alone. There are dinners, balls, race meetings and visits with the local gentry, with trips to London for yet more social events and the opera. This pattern continues in Greece and Egypt, where he evidently had immediate entry to the large and hospitable expatriate community in centres such as Patras and Athens, Alexandria and Cairo, which provided a welcome to travellers through letters of introduction acquired both at home and en route. Tea is taken in Greece, and pipes are companionably smoked of an evening. It is of some interest that,

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A pun on the name of Astley’s circus.

despite his shaky and inconsistent spelling of their names, we see that in Greece he found himself in scholarly company, so that long excursions throughout the country must have greatly benefited from the intellectual calibre of his companions and their knowledge of the ancient sites and monuments. Pratt himself exhibits little evidence of intellectual curiosity in his journals, but this may be deceptive. He is certainly extraordinarily energetic in seeking out places of interest, and tireless in his constant movements around the countries he visits. The journal entries are just dashed off and his spelling throughout, not merely that of names, is particularly bizarre and inconsistent, with no attempt made to correct the many grammatical omissions and errors; but, with the exception of the occasional lapse caused by the imposed indolence of a lazaretto confinement (a quarantine station for travellers returning to Europe), he managed to write something virtually every day.

Fig. 15 A Change of performance at Astley’s, or a pollution of Jacob’s Ladder, published by S. W. Fores, 1826, hand-coloured etching (BM Satires 15166, P&D 1868,0808.8701). British Museum.

INTRODUCTION

Another Grand Tour, this time to southern Italy, undertaken from October 1829 to July 1830, took off in Naples, where he climbed Vesuvius with friends and visited the palace of Capodimonte, and went on to Pompeii, Salerno, Sorrento and Amalfi. He toured Sicily with his youngest brother William, visiting the Greek temples at Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigentum, and sketched a view of Etna, which excitingly erupted while he was in Taormina, obscuring the sun for three days.

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From Geneva he went on to Lausanne, Mannheim, Mayence and Cologne, returning from Rotterdam to ‘Graves End’ on 3 November 1834. The travel journal which chronicles his most extensive voyage, to Greece, Egypt, Smyrna and Constantinople, offers considerably more detail, although most entries remain brief, merely naming his numerous dining and travelling companions, the sites and monuments visited, and his mode of travel. That said, they are enlivened by fascinating comments on the various

day-to-day incidents, often curious and sometimes perilous, which beset his travels. Occasional more lengthy digressions on ancient sites are mainly quotations from published accounts, and appear to have been added later. Of particular interest is his meticulous detailing of the cost and current exchange rates of his various modes of transport, his lodgings (which are all named), his meals and the hire of various servants. His own expenses are carefully compared to those of his brother William, who had made the voyage earlier. These journals are for private consumption, written up each day and clearly never intended for publication. Despite, or perhaps because of, the brevity of the entries, they capture a spontaneous and personal reaction to his experiences and therefore provide a truer insight into the mind of the writer than a more considered or rewritten text. The journal also provides the background to his often finely worked drawings and watercolours. Pratt made an extensive tour of Greece (Fig. 16). Though apparently travelling alone, accompanied only by his personal servant Edward Eaves, with other servants taken on as required, he was seldom without travel companions, probably gathered from the many introductions he appears to have had at Athens and Patras. In Athens, he was immediately received into the circle of European expatriates and travelling scholars: army personnel, archaeologists, architects, educationalists and artists. Some among them were surveying the ancient monuments, others preparing plans for the urban renewal of Athens following Greek independence, and they made lively and interesting travelling companions on forays deep into the hinterlands of Greece. Greeks are also mentioned among his acquaintances, and some of their names are written in Greek, which he was studying. Pratt was a gregarious and enthusiastic traveller, uncomplaining and open to new adventures and experiences, although impatient of delay. Sea-sickness and the ubiquitous ophthalmia in Egypt are disregarded and quite dangerous moments are related in a low-key manner. He visited the famous classical sites of Greece and was particularly receptive to the beauties of the climate and landscape, and delighted by the luxuriant flora, perhaps reflecting his

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Greece, Egypt and beyond The bare outline of Pratt’s visits to Greece and Egypt appears in his main diary for 1789–1849. In October 1832 he took his place in the Corfu steamer and was at Hydra on 1 November and Athens on 1 December, moving on to Patras in March 1833, and returning via the lazaretto in Ancona in June. In July he arrived at Faido in southern Switzerland, stopping in Andermat, and making his now customary visit to Lausanne before travelling via Nice into Calabria in December. Continuing via Sicily and Malta, he arrived in Alexandria on Christmas Day 1833. 1834 January 1 dined at Thurburn’s a Ball19 February at Beni Hassan March saw Amada at a distance April Dendera May left Alexandria for Smyrna June 1 dined with La fontaine 20 July on board the Actaeon21 August at Malta Lazaretto September 31st to Geneve

Robert Thurburn (1784–1860), British official, secretary to E. Missett, British Consul General in Egypt and afterwards a partner in the house of Briggs & Co., Alexandria; British Consul in Alexandria 1833–38. He was very helpful to British travellers in Egypt.

21

Probably a son of James La Fontaine, a banker in Smyrna. A Royal Navy frigate on service in the Mediterranean.

12

INTRODUCTION

heraldic motto ‘Rident florentia prata’ [Our flowering fields rejoice] (Fig. 17). He frequently notes unusual plants, and swathes of narcissus, lentisk, and oleander ‘rhododaphne’ delight him, as does the variety of bird species, which he both admires and shoots. It was not unusual to treat a Nile voyage as an opportunity for the sport; shooting birds might combine both sporting and ornithological motives, with some travellers collecting and preserving their skins, and Pratt made some delightful watercolours of birds, to which he attached their actual feathers. At Athens we find Pratt busy drawing the monuments, and he appears to have attempted some excavations around the Choragic monument of Lysicrates. He experienced some dangerous moments in Greece, finding the country to be lawless and the seas plagued by pirates. Armed local groups roamed the countryside, and after some previous alarms, he and a companion were robbed of their guns and watches. When his steamer sheltered from a storm at Limeni in the Mani, he accompanied the captain to the home of the Mavromichele

family, who he knew to have been responsible for the murder of the Greek politician Ionnis Kapodistrias, known as ‘Capo d’Istria’. From Greece, Pratt returned to Europe and to his customary haunts in Switzerland. There, he was reunited with his siblings before setting off once more for the Near East, through Sicily and Malta, to Egypt, Smyrna and Constantinople. Among Pratt’s fellow travellers on the voyage from Malta was Captain Charles Rochfort Scott. Scott’s account describes how their captain miscalculated the position of Alexandria by a hundred miles, lengthening their stormy voyage by eight days, and they only finally reached port by falling in with Muhammad Ali’s fleet. It was not a comfortable voyage: ‘Our fare was plentiful enough, but it consisted of hard biscuits, macaroni, and anatomies of ancient fowl, all equally uneatable, and repeated three times a day for breakfast, dinner and tea.’ (Scott 1837, 18). When they disembarked: ‘No one troubled us on landing with a question about passports

Constantinople

N

MAP to Illustrate the

Travels of ED

CORFU

Gr

GREECE

WAR

eece

A D R O GER PR

P OS PAX

Smyr m na

Delphi AEGEAN SEA E

CEPHALONIA ZANTE

Patras Manolatha Akrata Corinth Olympia Argos Nauplia

Marathon Athens Aegina

Sounion

Hydra Kardamili Limeni SEA OF C CR ETE T

Fig. 16 A map to show Pratt’s travels in Greece.

TT

r & A sia M in o in

TURKEY

13

INTRODUCTION

and a very slight inspection of our baggage at the Custom house was all the inconvenience experienced…’ (Scott 1837, 15). On the same boat, the brig Gran Bretagne, was the American Methodist missionary the Revd Eli Smith, returning to Egypt with his new wife Sarah. On their arrival the Smiths went sightseeing in Alexandria and dined with the American consular agent George Gliddon on 29 December, before leaving for Beirut on 15 January (Oliver 2014, 168–69). A host of international travellers were gathered in Alexandria that year and a single and convivial gentleman armed with letters of introduction would soon be assured of entry into the busy social circle. As Scott wrote: The Society of Alexandria consists almost exclusively of the consular circle. It contains, of course, many agreeable and well-informed persons, and travellers, provided with letters of introduction, easily obtain the entreé; but the mercantile class, which, at the present day, is, with few exceptions, composed of a very second-rate order of the profession, is by no means noted for hospitality. (Scott 1837, 46–48)

Fig. 17 Edward Roger Pratt’s bookplate: ‘Rident florentia prata’ [Our flowering fields rejoice].

There were frequent amateur concerts, French plays at the theatre and a subscription ball on New Year’s Day, which Pratt also attended, ‘to which all persons appear to be admitted, without distinction of cast, religion, or politics’. There were ‘many pretty girls in the room’ although almost all ‘badly dressed’ and attended by aged chaperones who reminded Scott of mummies. There was also ‘a well-attended gaming table’ (quoted in Oliver 2014, 47). Having arrived in Alexandria, Egypt, on Christmas Day 1833 (Fig. 18), Pratt called on Robert Thurburn, the British consul, the following day. In the street he encountered Lady Jane Franklin, whom he recognized, having met her in March 1833 in Patras with her husband Sir John (Franklin MS 248/172, 64). It is thanks to Lady Franklin’s journal that we can discover more details about his visit to Alexandria, and she confirms his craving for society and his reluctance to spend time alone; all her descriptions emphasize this trait in his

Fig. 18 Journal entry for Christmas Day, Alexandria.

14

INTRODUCTION

character. The wife of Sir John Franklin, the Arctic explorer, who commanded the frigate HMS Rainbow in the Mediterranean during the final years of the Greek War of Independence, she had remained in Egypt after the departure of her husband in order to complete a planned trip on the Nile. An enthusiastic traveller herself, she was preparing to visit a harem with Thurburn’s stepdaughter Rosina and wrote in her journal on 26 December 1833: I have forgotten to mention that in going to Kommendik [Kom el-dikka] this morning, we were met on the road by a gentleman in a red tarboush on a donkey, who stopped short & calling me Lady Franklin seemed to wait for my recognition. Luckily I had seen in the Malta gazette the evening before that Mr Edward Pratt had recently left that place in the Gran Bretagne schooner or brig, & it immediately occurred to me that he might be coming to Egypt, where he had told the [?Capt.] he meant to come this winter & he had added he hoped to see me there. I soon therefore returned his ejaculation by saying Mr Pratt! & then I introduced Miss Thurburn – he said he was going to call on the Consul but wished he could accompany us to the harem whither we were going. He brought a letter of introduction from Dr Hogg. On our return we found that Mr Thurburn had invited him to dinner for the following day. (Franklin MS 248/79, 184)

On Sunday 29 December Pratt heard the Revd Eli Smith preach at Gliddon’s house. George Gliddon was the US Consul at Alexandria and an American Egyptologist who would lecture and write on the subject on his return to America. Lady Franklin recorded in her journal that she had mistaken the time and not attended the service herself for fear of arriving too late:

That evening, Lady Franklin recorded that: Mr Pratt came to dinner today self-invited, he said he was nearly turning back at the Rosetta gate from want of courage to do the deed – Mr Waldgen, & Mr A. Thurburn were also at the dinner & before it was ended there came in [?other] visitors, Messrs. Sloane, [?Scassi] and Delavalle. The former brought me & Miss Thurburn printed notes of an invitation to a ball on New Year’s Day given by a society of 20. In the evening Count [?Fentti], an Italian nobleman of the Papal states who has been obliged to leave his country for political [sic], called, previous to his approaching departure from Egypt. – Dr Grassi22 told us that no new case of plague has occurred since the 13th, till yesterday, when 2 of the Arabs who had attended the sick, viz. the barber & the infirmia23 were seized with symptoms. They are shut up in the hospital, together with the only surviving person of the 24 victims whom the plague had attacked, and whose wound is not yet cauterized. (Franklin MS 248/79, 190)

In Alexandria Pratt visited the town, the arsenale and warships, and then Pompey’s Pillar, dining, he says, each night at Thurburn’s. He attended the New Year’s Day dinner and ball ‘given by the gentlemen of the town’ and escorted Lady Franklin home. On 3 January Lady Franklin and Rosina were invited to visit a British naval ship in port, and after an entertaining day, made their excuses: since it was known that we were going back to dine in the country at 2, and that a gentleman Mr Pratt was invited to dine with us at that hour… Mr Pratt came to dine with us today, previous to commencing his voyage towards Cairo in the evening, & the Swedish Countess came also,24 without an invitation. After dinner the Turkish Colonel called, & at the same time, Mrs. and the beautiful Miss Portalis [sic],25 who, in spite of Rosina’s assertion that she had no beauty by day-light, I found quite as handsome & even more so than in the ballroom. She looked less blossoming however, & her complexion is not very good but her skin is soft & smooth. Mr Pratt willingly agreed to all my admiration of her beauty in every particular, but said it had no effect on him whatever. – 10 years ago it might, but now all beauty was perfectly indifferent to him, he says all this however as if he still retained a perfect enjoyment of life, as he certainly does of its social enjoyments. (Franklin MS 248/79, 206)

Mr Smith preached at Mr Gliddon’s house, much to Mr Pratt’s satisfaction, who was there, & who said the discourse turned a good deal upon the state of the country. – Mr Pratt said there was a Scottish Missionary of the Wesleyan persuasion, on his way to this country to assume the church duties – Mr Pratt seems to have seen a good deal of him at Naples, & describes him as a very clever, sensible and learned man, very religious, yet liberal in his sentiments, very amiable and very gentlemanly, & a good scholar – ‘a very nice fellow indeed!’. (Franklin MS 248/79, 188)

22 23

The chief physician of Alexandria. Barber-surgeon and infirmière/nurse.

24 25

Countess Margareta Charlotta Heijkenskjöld. Pourtales?

INTRODUCTION

Captain Scott and his friend Mr Mayo were also of the party and were going to shoot wildfowl the following day in the Delta,26 and once their companion Domville had recovered from his illness, they were all going up the Nile. ‘Mr Pratt’s boat was brought by Achmet in the course of the evening & he took his leave of us, declaring that he should wait for us at Thebes, & seeming much disposed to do so at Cairo’ (Franklin MS 248/79, 207). Writing to her husband on 8 January 1834, Lady Franklin wrote that Pratt ‘has expressed I am told, a desire to accompany me after we have accomplished the Nile excursion, a thing I could not desire, if quite alone. If you were here it might be agreeable enough, for he is not a giddy youth, but an old bachelor, 40 years of age or more, good humoured, intelligent, and well informed, very natural in his manner and liberal in his judgements; a good artist and delighting in society’ (Franklin MS 248/172, 65). From Alexandria, Pratt took the boat to Cairo, finding the countryside between Alexandria and Cairo ‘ugly’ and ‘much like that near Ely and Littleport’. In contrast to Alexandria, Captain Scott had found Cairo ‘a remarkably dull city to live in’ with ‘no one place of public amusement for Franks, [i.e. Europeans] – no private society, beyond an occasional formal dinner at the homes of the different European consuls – and no “Café” nor “Bigliardo” in which any person of respectability can show himself’. At a time when the British Orientalist Edward William Lane was living in the city composing his book on the modern Egyptians, Scott found that books ‘are not to be procured on any terms; and newspapers, unfortunately, arrive only once a month’ (quoted in Oliver 2014, 216). In Cairo, Pratt lodged with ‘Osman’, formerly William Thompson, a British soldier and adventurer who had converted to Islam on being captured in Egypt, was released from slavery by the intervention of the British consul general Henry Salt in 1815, and subsequently made a career as a general aide and interpreter at the Consulate and for travellers. Many of Salt’s substantial and important collections of antiquities were acquired by the British Museum: his entire first collection of 1821, and items from his posthumous sale of 1835. Pratt made contact with John Barker, Salt’s successor

26

Mr Mayo of South Carolina, probably Charleston (New York Spectator, 27 April 1835), according to Andrew Oliver’s List of American Travellers. Lady Franklin thought that he was not American although he had spent much time there, particularly

15

in office, visited Old Cairo, then the pyramids at Giza and the Cairo Citadel and mosques (for the latter he ‘was dressed in Osman’s clothes’). At Boulak he chose a boat for his Nile voyage. He had engaged as his dragoman Achmet, who had been recommended by Lady Franklin for whom he had worked previously. A dragoman’s position combined servant and guide; he also acted as interpreter and was in charge of the rest of the staff and crew assembled for the voyage. Achmet had just travelled from Malta as the servant of the Revd and Mrs Smith, the American missionaries, so Pratt would have seen him on board. When Lady Franklin had called on the Smiths in Alexandria on 27 December 1833, she found ‘my old servant Achmet… who seemed to shew some inclination to re-enter my service’: Achmet had presented himself to me for the first time the day before at the door of the Turkish Lady’s house where we had been dining. – He wore his usual trousers, but a tight European jacket & altogether looked so quizzical & consequential that I did not know what to make of him, & when I saw him ride off on a donkey, with a turbaned Arab behind him on another, like his servant, I thought of Mr [?Grigs] description of him that he was ‘such a down right fool’ & did not [?regret] that I had another person whom however I could easily have got rid of in my service. – Mrs Smith however spoke well of him, only saying that he had been fighting a little on board, but she believed that he had been much provoked to it by the [?threatening] behaviour of the Maltese. – Achmet always finds a sort of home at Mr Thurburn’s & brings presents of oranges & butter to the master & mistress and more valuable things to Mrs Bell, who is his great favourite, for Achmet never could keep any money in his pocket & was also very susceptible and tender hearted. – I recommended him to Mr Pratt, telling the latter that I was half-disposed to take him back myself & I was even hesitating about doing so when I heard that Mr Pratt, who did not hesitate so long, had actually engaged him. Achmet afterwards took an opportunity of coming to the house & desiring to speak with me, & when [?acceding] to his wish, we summoned him up stairs, he shewed himself dressed in a full European suit, which to do him justice, was not altogether unbecoming – his self-complacency in this habiliment was perfectly infantine [sic] & highly entertaining.

in the West Indies, and had come to Egypt in order to establish a sugar refinery. She described his face as ‘ruddy brown’ with ‘grizzled hair, sharp penetrating grey eyes & wide set of white teeth’ (Franklin MS 248/79, 199).

16

INTRODUCTION

– Mr Pratt seems to like him and thinks him clever – we told him to be on his guard esp. as to what he said and did, for that Achmet was a terrible gossip. Mr Pratt dined with us today; & seemed characteristically very much at his ease & at home – he complained of his want of society, which in spite of the resources he possesses in himself, seems always a craving passion with him & told Mr Thurburn he wished he w’d let him bring his tent, & place it in the grounds that he might live close to us, – he said it was difficult to spend money in the countries – he [?pined] for [?Athens ] where he had a bowl of French cigars every night for [?whosoever] called. – he told me he had seen the St. Simonien artist, Mr Machenaud, making a drawing of Cleopatra’s needle & on inquiry found it was for Lady Franklin and that the St Simonien had said he was likely to go up the Nile with her. – This was owing to Miss Thurburn’s having asked him in case any party should wish him to accompany them up the Nile to make drawings, whether he would be license to do so, a question to which he replied in the affirmative with the greatest alacrity. (Franklin MS 248/79, 186–70)

After making the obligatory visit to the Pasha of Egypt, Muhammad Ali, on which he makes no comment, unlike Scott Pratt equipped himself with ‘a costume’ from the bazaar, and slept aboard his boat, but was forced to seek out ‘Monsieur Grant’ to have a tooth pulled before he could set off upriver, ‘English colours flying’ (Fig. 19).

goose near Cairo, and at Edfu accidentally shot a man while shooting grouse. Fortunately ‘the man was more frightened than hurt’ but Pratt made sure his boat ‘went off in the middle of the night’ to avoid any repercussions. His descriptions are reserved for his pen and brush in the drawings. ‘I spent the day at Dendera’ is a typical entry, but the drawings in his album show that his time there must have been spent exploring, observing, thinking and recording. He is able to identify certain cartouches, and he attempts to copy the hieroglyphs, noting whether they were ‘in the good style’.

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Alexandria BITTER LAKES

Cairo Memphis

Zawiyet el-Maiytin Beni Hasan Tell el-Amarna RI

NI

LE

Their progress up the Nile was punctuated by minor delays which irritated him: the Rais, the captain of his boat, quarrelled with a baker at Siout, milk had to be obtained from local villages by his dragoman Achmet, at one point the boat had to be towed, and the Rais ‘lost me two hours’ when he went to a mosque at the end of Ramadan, and yet more time was lost when he visited a market. It was important to take advantage of the winds when travelling upstream and so Abu Simbel was given a cursory examination before continuing their journey. There was time, however, when they stopped that night, for him to walk into the desert, close to the river, where he ‘lay down on the sand to admire the stars and planets’. The text of the journal for Egypt contains little information about the monuments at the sites where they stopped; it is virtually a bare itinerary relating only the minor incidents of travel, amusing, startling, or curious, or some unfortunate encounters with the local inhabitants. He shot what turned out to have been a ‘tame’

RED SEA

VE

R.

On the Nile

Abydos

Dendera Thebes

Gebel Silsila Aswan Philae Beit el-Wali Dakka Amada Abu Simbel FIRST CATARACT

Qasr Ibrim

Wadi Halfa 0 0

200 mls 300 kms

Fig. 19 A map to show Pratt’s travels in Egypt.

INTRODUCTION

17

Pratt was disgusted by any damage he found to the monuments, whether admonishing the French for whitewashing the temple of Luxor, condemning Robert Hay, whose plaster cast of ‘the Great picture’ in the tomb of Sety I had completely removed the colour from the wall, or deprecating the European graffiti at Abu Simbel. Kalabsha was ‘a vast temple terribly ruined, so much as gives more pain than pleasure’. Other than ‘some medals’ at Cairo and ‘not a bad bronze figure’ purchased at Esna, no purchases or other acquisitions are mentioned. As he progressed there are small sketch-maps of areas of the Nile stuck into his journal and these show the dates of his voyage and bear numbered references for tombs and temples. Frequent references to Champollion indicate that he may have been using one of Champollion’s publications as a guide. The most likely publication seems to be Lettres écrites d’Égypte et de Nubie en 1828 et 1829, which was published in 1833, although Pratt’s numbering system for monuments he saw in the el-Asasif does not correspond to that given by Champollion. Pratt appears to use his own sequence of Roman numerals on all the small sketch-maps affixed to his journal, purely for his own recollection and for identification purposes. They relate to his very brief descriptions, so, for example, on his map of el-Asasif, the tomb numbered ‘VII’ is identified as ‘Statues, giraffe’, and therefore is likely to be the tomb of Rekhmira. Only at the Valley of the Kings in Thebes do the Roman numerals refer to tomb numbers in actual use, so that ‘Belzoni’s’ tomb (Sety I) is numbered ‘XVII’, and ‘I’, the tomb of Rameses VII, a tomb once used as a dwelling by Coptic monks, is marked as the one where he found his old acquaintance from Greece, John Pennethorne,27 living with his companion Mr Hill. (They subsequently moved on from their tomb in the Valley of the Kings to live in the temple at Karnak.) Pratt was certainly enthusiastic about Champollion’s publication from the joint FrancoTuscan expedition of 1828–29, and was aware that Ippolito Rosellini was about to publish portraits of Egyptian kings. Later there is a single mention in his journal of Rosellini’s companion volumes from their expedition, the Monumenti dell’Egitto e della Nubia. Pratt just noted down the title at home on Christmas

Day 1836, but without comment. Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte (Paris, 1802) not only served as a guide book, but also Pratt cut out prints from its illustrations which complement the subjects he himself drew. At Beni Hasan, where Robert Hay was ‘established in one of the tombs’, Hay’s artist, the architect A. Dupuy (in Turkish dress), gave him paper to trace the tomb paintings and their hieroglyphic inscriptions, and showed him the technique of taking ‘squeezes’ by pressing wet paper against the relief scenes. Dupuy also drew for him the ‘figures’ outside ‘a temple in a valley near’ Beni Hasan. At Philae, Pratt took on a pilot to navigate the rocky stretches of the Nile cataract, and they passed the Pasha’s boat with Lord Waterford on board.28 At Wadi Halfa, the cataract was explored on camelback and from here the more leisurely return on the downstream current began, with more time to explore and record the sites. The Swedish countess whom he had met in Alexandria was at Wadi es-Sebua, and showed him her collection of ‘stones’. Captain Scott and his companion Domville, who had travelled from Malta to Alexandria with him, reappeared with a Mr ‘Cambell’ at Qena, opposite Dendera, and their boats met up again later.29 He passed a ‘soirée’ with Lady Jane Franklin when they met just north of Aswan and she has left us a vivid picture of her encounter with Pratt on the Nile in her journal. This section of her journal was apparently written in haste and is often hardly possible to decipher, yet has an immediacy which brings the encounter to life. Aged forty-two, and making the Nile voyage without her husband but under the protection of the Revd Lieder, she was deeply concerned with proprieties and in her own journal frequently critical of the behaviour of gentleman travellers, flirtatious young ladies and unsuitably attired older women. Pratt was evidently at one with John L. Stephens, an American traveller who wrote of the ‘agreeable and exciting’ release from the constraints of civilized life provided by a Nile voyage in 1835: this encompassed not having to shave for two months, washing one’s shirts in the Nile and wearing them unironed, strolling and shooting ashore, and then the

27

28

John Pennethorne (1808–1888), architect, who made an important study of the Parthenon, discovering that the temple construction was not rectilinear, as previously thought, but designed with ‘optical corrections’. He was the younger brother of the architect Sir James Pennethorne.

29

Henry Beresford, the 3rd Marquess of Waterford, who had travelled to Egypt on his yacht, the Jem (Oliver 2014, 171) and engaged the best boat on the Nile (Franklin MS 248/172, 65). Perhaps Patrick Campbell, officer and diplomat, who succeeded John Barker as Consul General in 1833.

18

INTRODUCTION

drawings – spent 2 days with Mr Dupuis [Dupuy] at Beni Hassan & copied with damp paper & liked his [?pressed] drawings the best. S’d Dupuis had suggested the sending designs to Paris & having furnishing paper hangings made there, like it32 – s’d Rossalini, who travelled with Champollion had lately brought out a no. of his new work on portraits of Egyptian kings – thought Champollion excellent very interesting work – gave me 2 pages out of his drawing book where has divided course of Nile from Cairo to Wady Halfa into [?°] degrees, [?agrees] Champollion’s remarks &c. – had met Swedish countess coming down from W. Halfa, she going up – she had him on board, to show her stones – she felt very lonely, – has a dahabeia, but had difficulty in passing Cataracts. Nubia worse than Egypt – all [?sand], but people better clothed – sh’d go to Alexandria & embark for Smyrna & then to Constantinople. – had spent 2 days with Mr Pennythorne much to his satisfaction. – The Americans & French had gone up to Dongola33 – he liked Achmet very well – thought him a very honest fellow but had not authority enough to make men do their duty – he had a bad [?] of Captn. Charles Scott whom he seemed to like very much – thought Mayo [?queer], like a [?younger brother] had not said such a thing before – [?seemed] to think I had a superb boat – (Franklin MS 248/154, 83–85)

‘freedom and cordiality’ of meeting up with fellow travellers (quoted in Oliver 2014, 209). Lady Franklin wrote: …stopped about sunset off village of El Akhabet,30 little more than half way between Kom Ombos & Assouan – About ½ hour after, while sitting at tea with Mr Lieder, was told there was English boat [?] on other side, let off gun & the boat came across and Mr Pratt stepped in, dirty, with full beard, never cut since he left Cairo, a sort of shawl or scarf wrapped round throat – he looked worse than any of the previous Englishmen. I introduced Mr Lieder to him – he seemed to have no idea who he was, except that he belonged to the country & knew Arabic & he Sir’d him very much –. he called me Madam also repeatedly & altogether had strange and rather uncouth & equally natural yet still less [?guarded] manners than [?usual], was continually using the word fellow, and develish – & told Mr Lieder and me that the Bible was the only book which gave one any ancient account of Egypt, all the rest modern, & before he had set off he determined to buy a bible, & asked the American Miss[ionary] for one – who no doubt, s’d he laughing, thought he had been converting me – so he procured me an Italian bible.31 Herodotus was the next best book to bible – thought Egypt frightful & odious country, no plants nor flowers in it – but seems to have been much in[tereste]’d. in ruins – Thebes the best & great quadrangle of Medinet Abou best thing there. Abousimbel very fine – reminded him of [?fancy] later – expected the giants to strike – was sick of same sculptures every where – expressed great indignation at mischief done by travellers & at their names written defacing – particularly [?Arabic…] on forehead of Sesostris – had rubbed out his brother’s name & many others in chalk wherever he could – did not mind it where c’d do no mischief & this had humoured Achmet [?&c. …] all their names on some plain wall. – begged I did not betray him, as he might be called out – was part[icular]’ly disgusted with whitewash put by [?late] French on Temple at Luxor, thought Lord Waterford, who had powers to do anything from Pasha, might have removed it, had himself made a great many

30

31

32

Perhaps she is referring to Qubbet el-Hawa, the site of rock-cut tombs north of Elephantine; however, on Pratt’s sketch-map their meeting is marked as further north and quite close to Kom Ombo, as she herself describes. Probably the American Methodist missionary the Revd Eli Smith, who had travelled over from Malta to Alexandria on the same ship (see Oliver 2014, 168). Pratt had heard him preach on Sunday 29 December at Mr Gliddon’s (see Franklin MS 248/79, 199). Dupuy’s suggestion refers to the vogue for French painted panoramic wallpapers depicting exotic and picturesque views,

They must also have discussed the sites, for when she reached Derr on 7 April, Lady Franklin described it as having ‘a sort of place d’armes as Mr Pratt called it, in the village, where is magn[ificen]t sycamore of many branches and in full leaf’ (Franklin MS 248/154, 141). In addition to the more accessible temples and tombs along the Nile, Pratt attempted to explore the famous Grottos of Samoun in the desert near Manfalut, but turned back after forty yards repelled by the difficulties and the unpleasant nature of the dark, inaccessible caves packed with mummies of all kinds. He also stopped to explore the rock tombs of Tell el-Amarna, a site less visited by travellers, where he may have been alerted to the existence of the tombs by Robert Hay

33

designed to be placed over a dado in salons and dining rooms. Champollion’s first night in Alexandria (19 August 1828) was spent at the French Consulate in an apartment of two rooms decorated with painted Parisian wallpaper; the salon boasted painted wallpaper depicting a Swiss landscape (Champollion 2001, 39). Probably Ralph Stead Izard and Lewis Stackpole, who were travelling in the company of another boat with two French travellers, Joseph-Napoleon-Paul de Barral (1806–1850) and Charles Poupillier (see Oliver 2014, 179–80).

INTRODUCTION

who only the previous year had uncovered several of the southern tombs from sand-drifts. Pratt took squeezes of reliefs in the northern tombs and commented that the lack of perspective made the images of houses and gardens difficult to understand. On his return, some further sociable and relaxing days were spent in Cairo and Alexandria. Dr Laidlaw, an English physician working in Alexandria, undertook to send his sketches to England when Pratt left Alexandria for Smyrna on 1 May 1834. Smyrna and Constantinople On board the Flora Pratt was probably annoyed to discover that another passenger had paid 10 dollars for the trip which cost him 30 (but he noted that they were charged the same amount for food). Careful with money yet generous of spirit, he gave some rice he had brought with him to four slaves on board without a master, apparently a situation in which no one was responsible for their well-being. The ship was carrying ten slaves ‘to be delivered to a person at Smyrna like any other merchandise’. From a stop at Rhodes the Flora set off again for Smyrna, the route being notorious for piracy. On sighting two vessels and hearing gunfire, the captain promptly turned back to Rhodes, blaming the passengers for his retreat. Pratt quarrelled with the captain over this and was refused a boat to go on shore. They eventually arrived in Smyrna safely, having been escorted by an Austrian warship. A week in Smyrna proved as sociable as all his other ports and he visited M. La Fontaine, of the Smyrna and Constantinople merchant and banking family, at his country villa in Bougia. Pratt was present when a great fire destroyed the Frank part of the town including several English houses. Pratt arrived in Constantinople (Istanbul) on 18 June for a brief stay, visiting the main sights and leaving on 1 July on HMS Actaeon, a British naval vessel of 26 guns. His earlier enthusiasm for travel perhaps now waning, he admired the Suleymaniye mosque but was driven out of the Sultan Ahmed mosque ‘by the priests’, and prevented from seeing Hagia Sophia, although he toured the city and saw the obelisk and the aqueducts. A trip up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea revealed the

34

Moore 1830. On his journey out from England, Pratt had noted seeing Missolonghi in the distance, famous for its part in the

19

‘country ugly’ and on his return to the 18-gun sloop HMS Scout he was ‘bitten by bugs’. Relaxing and enjoying ices in the company of M. La Fontaine made his stay more pleasant, but we may sense that he was perhaps quite happy to board the Actaeon for his return to England. They met up with the British fleet briefly at Mytilene, the capital and port of Lesbos, before sailing back to Malta where he was ‘obliged to kick up a dust to get a good room’ in the lazaretto. Here, in quarantine, there was time to read Moore’s Life of Byron and the memoirs of Ida Saint-Elme.34 He was visited by the missionary Joseph Wolff and his wife Lady Georgiana Walpole; he had his wines (‘Ithaca, Siracuse & Bordeaux’), and there was a regular coming and going of residents. On 7 July 1834 he was released with the bill for his lodgings and furniture, then there was a final week’s whirlwind of visits, before he left for Sicily. Pratt returned to England to attend the London wedding of his sister Maria on 6 November 1834. At home he became involved in local politics, serving as a Justice of the Peace following the death of his father in 1838 and probably holding the office until his own death in 1863. He notes in his diary that that he was prevailed upon to stand as a candidate for an unspecified position at ‘Lynn’ and was nominated at Swaffham. He attended the election dinner and ball on 10 February 1835. In 1850 he held the office of High Sheriff of Norfolk. The collector Having spent a total of eleven days at Thebes (modern Luxor), Pratt does not record any purchases, despite the opportunities offered there and what appears to be a reference in his journal to the location of the house of the excavator and collector Giovanni d’Athanasi (1798–1854) at Qurna. Lady Franklin reports visiting d’Athanasi, but although she had ‘desired him to get antiquities for me’ he told her that ‘Mr Hay first, & subsequently the Americans & French had bought up everything’. She pressed him on his private collection but was only offered some scarabs ‘marked 20 dollars & I would not have given 5…’ (Franklin MS 248/154, 7–8). Nevertheless, she accepted ‘a large sculpt’d stone

Greek War of Independence and site of the death of Byron in 1824.

20

INTRODUCTION

from him for which he would take nothing but for which I gave him 3 bottles of Frontignac wine, given me by Mr L. for purpose’. Pratt was eventually to buy antiquities from d’Athanasi’s collection, but in London. These formed part of a number of Egyptian antiquities at Ryston Hall including two large stone stelae, three smaller stelae, two calcite canopic jars and a number of smaller objects. Some of these were later sold by the Pratt family, and the British Museum now owns two of the stelae. Since the sole purchases in Egypt mentioned in his journal are the medals from Cairo and the bronze figure purchased from Greek bankers at Esna, it appears that some of these Egyptian antiquities were London auction purchases made by himself, his father, or other family members. For example, in March 1833, while Pratt himself was travelling in Greece and on his way to Egypt, the auctioneer’s copy of the Sotheby’s catalogue of the John Barker sale, 15 and 16 March 1833, shows that Lot 240, ‘A Tablet, with three Figures sitting, the back finely sculptured with Hieroglyphics and Figures’, was purchased by a ‘Pratt’ for £2/18 shillings. Lot 180, ‘A solid bronze figure of Osiris, the eyes in composition, 7″ high, fine and perfect’ also went to ‘Pratt’ for £1/12 shillings. This ‘Pratt’ purchaser may, however, be Pratt’s father, or his relation George Charles Pratt (1799–1866), second Marquess Camden, later Earl of Brecknock, or else someone quite unrelated. Certainly the bronze Osiris figure in Pratt’s collection (see below) did not have composition eyes. The year after his return to England, on 2 and 3 July 1835 ‘with Brecknock’,35 Pratt attended Sotheby’s London sale of Henry Salt’s third collection of Egyptian antiquities, the sale taking place over seven days, but no purchase appears in his journal. November 1836 saw him in Paris where he noted that he ‘saw the Egyptian Antiques Champollion’s are not yet placed…’ and on Christmas Day he wrote: ‘Xmas Day Ryston. Monumenti dell Egitto e della Nubia par Hippolite Rosellini’,36 adding the unrelated horticultural note, ‘Horne for Evergreen clump 2,,15,,0.’

Pratt went ‘to town’ on 9 August 1837, and the entry for the following day, 10 August, reads: ‘Egyptian Tomb £15’. This appears to be his purchase of the stela which as Lot 982 had remained unsold at the large d’Athanasi sale, which spanned seven days in March 1837, and had been left at Sotheby’s with other unsold items.37 The detailed description of Lot 982 exactly matches the stela. A tiny fragment of an auction label, removed from the stela, has the remains of the upper

35

37

36

In his last years, George Charles Pratt, Earl of Brecknock (1799–1866), was president of the Royal Archaeological and Camden Societies and the Kent Archaeological Society so would have had an interest in antiquities. Jermyn Pratt was Domestic Chaplain to his brother-in-law Brecknock (whose wife Harriet was a sister of Jermyn’s wife Mary Louisa). The multi-volume work published by Ippolito Rosellini on returning from his expedition to Egypt with J.-F. Champollion in 1828–29.

Fig. 20 The stela of Ptaherhat or Ptaherhatef displayed at Ryston Hall (photograph courtesy of John Taylor).

Letter from Giovanni d’Athanasi to Edward Hawkins, Keeper of the Department of Antiquities, the British Museum, 29 June 1837, explaining that unsold items from the sale of his collection had been left at Sotheby’s warehouse in Wellington Street and remained ‘open to an offer’ to purchase. Correspondence 1826– 60, vol. I, A-B (incorrectly labelled on spine: 2, Bo-Bu.), Middle East Department Library, the British Museum.

21

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 21 Pratt’s drawings and souvenirs still lining the hall cupboard.

Fig. 22 Pratt’s drawings and souvenirs still lining the hall cupboard.

part of black ink numbers which could be read as ‘982’, the number of the lot. The auctioneer’s copy of the catalogue gives ‘Wm’ as the purchaser and £8/18 shillings as the price, but ‘Wm’ or ‘W’ was the auctioneer’s term for an unsold item or denotes an agent acting for a buyer who wished to remain anonymous.38 This stela of late Dynasty 18 or Dynasty 19, belonging to the Doorkeeper of Ptah, Ptaherhat (or Ptaherhatef), was purchased by the British Museum in 2007 from Piers Pratt and is now EA 77395. Prior to its removal to the British Museum, the stela was displayed at the foot of the main staircase at Ryston Hall in a glass-fronted cupboard created by closing up a doorway (Fig. 20). Down each door-jamb of this space, small drawings of Egyptian subjects, apparently by Pratt, had been fixed to the wall: a standing royal figure in a kilt, arms raised in adoration (Fig. 21), the head of a king wearing

a crown (Fig. 22), and a king from a ‘tombeau el Arabah’ [Abydos].39 Pinned to the drawings were a scarab of blue faience and a small amulet. Below this were two painted fragments, perhaps of wood or cartonnage: a vulture and a seated figure, possibly box or coffin fragments. Other Egyptian antiquities are said to have been acquired by Pratt and were later sold by his descendants. The Sotheby’s New York Sale of Antiquities on 6 December 2006 offered five small pieces described as formerly in the collection of Edward Roger Pratt: a black steatite shabti of Amenemhat, Dynasty 18 or early Dynasty 19, c. 1320–1250 BC; two green faience shabtis of Pakhadisu, Dynasty 30, 380–342 BC; a 5-inch-high (12.7cm) bronze figure of Ptah, Dynasty 26–30, 664–342 BC; and an 8-inch-high (20.3cm) bronze figure of Osiris, of the same date.

38

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The Gentleman’s Magazine, 1835, Antiquarian Researches, 298, describes how items were bought in this way by an agent for the collector Joseph Sams.

Whether Pratt displayed the rest of his collection is not known.

22

INTRODUCTION

Two other round-topped limestone stelae, sold at Sotheby’s New York, 17 December 1998, are attributed to Edward Roger Pratt’s collection: a 17-inchhigh (43cm) finely carved polychrome stela retaining much of its colour, early Dynasty 18, dedicated to the lady Nub-em-henuti; and a 27-inch-high (68.5cm) Dynasty 18 stela from Thebes, from the reign of Amenhotep III, c. 1390–1353 BC, showing the figure of Iufer-bak, guardian of the storehouse of the Temple of Amun, and members of his family. A 4½-inch (11.5cm) silver-gilt striding statue of Nekhbet, the vulture goddess of Upper Egypt, on sale in 2008 at the Royal-Athena galleries, New York and London, was also attributed to Pratt’s collection, although the date of the collection is given as 1937. Pratt, or perhaps another member of his family, also obtained two ancient Egyptian canopic jars, which were originally used to store the organs of the deceased. One of these appears to have been the item described as ‘1842 Canopic Vase bought £12.10.0’ which is noted in a chronological list among the papers in a ‘Folder of notes re the Pratt family c. 1904’.40 One of the jars has five columns of text and belonged to a man named Gemnefherbak, a Prophet of Hathor in the Saite period (Dynasty 26) (Fig. 23). The Museo Civico Archeologico, Bologna, holds another jar from the original set of four, together with a shabti belonging to the same person.41 The catalogue of the Bologna Museum shows that their jar came from the Palagi Collection. Filippo Pelagio Palagi (1775–1860), painter, sculptor and architect, worked mainly in Rome and collected art and antiquities, which he bequeathed to his native town of Bologna. His Egyptian antiquities were purchased from the collection of Giuseppe Nizzoli in 1831 and were therefore brought from Egypt between 1817 and 1828 (Bierbrier 2012, 413). The second Pratt canopic jar, with four columns of text, belonged to Ahmose, son of Teskapu (his mother), a Prophet of Amun and of Khnum in the Late Period (Fig. 24). Another canopic jar belonging to the same person is in the Liebieghaus Museum, Frankfurt am Main, INV.-NR. IN 1664, having been transferred in 1919 from the Historisches Institut where it was

Inv.-Nr. 11214. It originated from the collection of the German naturalist and traveller Eduard Rüppell (1794– 1884), who visited Egypt in 1817–18, 1822–27, and 1849–50 (PM III2, 771; Schlick-Nolte et al. 1993, 390). Although it is impossible to provenance the original site of the Palagi and Rüppell objects, like the Pratt material they too come from early collections. The Pratt collection also includes a round-topped limestone stela with traces of red paint surviving (Fig. 25). In a wooden frame which partially overlaps the stela, it measures approximately 35.5 cm high and 24 cm wide. In the lunette at the top, two jackal figures representing Wepwawet, with a pair of wedjat eyes above. Below this, the main scene shows a woman at right, raising her hands in adoration before a standing figure of Osiris, who holds the crook and flail sceptres. Between them a stand with an offering vessel and a lotus flower, and at the extremities of the scene the emblems of East and West. A short inscription in three columns between the figures contains an offering formula addressed to ‘Osiris, Foremost of the Westerners, the great god, lord of Abydos’ by the dedicator, whose name is Herires. The two-line inscription at the bottom contains a more extensive offering formula, again addressed to Osiris on behalf of the same lady. On stylistic grounds, a date in the 25th Dynasty seems likely. The name Herires is probably of foreign origin, perhaps either Libyan or Kushite (for similar names containing the unexplained element ‘Her’, see Vittmann 2007, 150–1).42

40

42

41

NRO, PRA 691. Jar: Bologna 3237. Catalogo di antichità egizie, descritte dal prof. cav. Giovanni Kminek-Szedlo, edito per cura del Municipio di Bologna. Museo civico archeologico di Bologna (Turin, 1895), 360. For the shabti, Bologna 2247, see De Meulenaere 1965, 249–50.

Ryston A full-length oil portrait of 1828 by the artist Ramsay Richard Reinagle, which hangs in the dining room of Ryston Hall, shows ‘E. R. Pratt’ standing with a hound in the foreground at his feet; the dog holds his gloves in its mouth. This grey-haired man is Pratt senior aged seventy-two (Fig. 26). What appears to be a preparatory drawing, showing him seated in the same clothes, is titled ‘Drawn by R. R. Reinagle, RA, 1828’.43 Reinagle had already visited Ryston on 26 October 1824 to paint a portrait of his father, according to the diaries.

43

The information on this stela, as well as other details of Pratt’s antiquities, were kindly provided by John Taylor, the British Museum. A lithograph of this portrait is in the National Portrait Gallery.

23

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 23 Canopic jar of Gemnefherbak.

Fig. 24 Canopic jar of Ahmose son of Teskapu.

Pratt junior had his own portrait painted ‘chez Arlau’ for ‘6 Louis’ in 1836 while in Lausanne, but this picture does not appear to be at Ryston Hall.44 A single photograph of Pratt at the age of seventy-one was discovered in the attic, perhaps resulting from his brother Jermyn’s interest in photography. Pratt is shown seated, white-haired and be-whiskered, looking amiable and holding a book. He has inscribed the back of the photograph with his name and the date ‘1860’. On 26 October 1835, following the abolition of slavery in the British Caribbean by the British Government in 1833, Edward Roger Pratt and Mary Postle of Ringsfield, Suffolk, as trustees for the estate of William

Woodley of Eccles, Norfolk, were awarded the compensation of £1,529. 7s. 9d. for the Greenland estate on St Kitts, which in 1834 included a plantation and 118 enslaved people. The British Government had granted £20 million in compensation to be paid by British tax-payers to the former slave-owners.45 There is no definite evidence, however, to show that the trustee was Edward Roger Pratt junior, as formerly appeared on the records of the Legacies of British Slave-ownership database, UCL. Pratt senior was still alive in 1835 and it seems unlikely that his son would have taken over the trusteeship before his death. Other documents in the family archives show that Pratt junior did take

44

45

Perhaps Marc Louis Arlaud d’Orbe, who died in 1845. Related to a famous family of miniature painters named Arlaud, he founded a museum of painting at Lausanne.

Legacies of British Slave-ownership database, UCL.

24

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 25 Stela of Herires.

25

INTRODUCTION

over some family legal settlement-trust roles from his father, but after his father’s death. William Woodley of Eccles was in turn the trustee and executor of the will of William Woodley MP (1798–1793), a kinsman and possibly a cousin who had put his estate into trust. The connection between the Pratt family and William Woodley of Eccles is unclear, but Woodley, a prominent Norfolk land-owner, had diverted his estate to his natural daughter Mary Postle. She was the widow of George J. Cerjat, and had made a second marriage to the Revd Gunton Postle, MA, late Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, and Rector of Ringsfield, Suffolk for nearly forty years. Postle had died in 1829 aged seventy-two and Mary died in 1836. Postle is named in tandem with Sir Jacob Astley in connection with settlements made by Samuel Browne on his daughters Hester (married to Sir Jacob) and Pleasance (married to Edward Roger Pratt senior). The Pratt family papers hold an extract from the will of Gunton Postle and the 1807 marriage settlement of Gunton Postle and Mrs Mary Cerjat, for which Pratt senior was a trustee. There are also settlements or trusts naming the children of Gunton and Mary: Edward Postle (living in Berlin but formerly of Ringsfield, Suffolk), Mary Holmes, and Eliza Woodley Postle of Bellerive near Lausanne. Mary Postle’s executor was her son by George J. Cerjat, William Woodley Frederick Cerjat (Fig. 27). The Cerjats were a well-to-do Anglo-Swiss family from Lausanne and Edward Roger Pratt junior was a frequent visitor on his annual trips to Lausanne. As trustees for the West Indies estate Edward Roger Pratt and Mary Postle would have been responsible for managing the overall running of the St Kitts property and making financial decisions. They might have delegated this to managers but remained legally responsible. A codicil to Woodley’s will spells out the responsibilities of the trustees:

Fig. 26 Edward Roger Pratt senior by R. R. Reinagle, 1828.

I do hereby empower my executors and trustees to grant leases and to receive all rents and the produce arising from those estates and properties and to do all repairs and to furnish my West India estate with the usual stores of slaves, stock of horses and cattle and whatever may be wanted thereon...

The trustees were to remit the surplus rents, produce and profits to his natural daughter Mary Cerjat. If Pratt junior was involved with slave ownership in St Kitts, his journal comments on slaves being transported to Smyrna and treated as merchandise would appear extremely naïve.

Fig. 27 A bookplate from Ryston Hall library of W. W. Cerjat.

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INTRODUCTION

Pratt’s father died on 5 March 1838 aged eighty-two and was buried a week later. On his father’s death he was appointed Justice of the Peace and Deputy-Lieutenant for Norfolk. The diary entry, outlined in black ink, reads in the third person: ‘Mr Pratt died William [his youngest son] with him’. As the heir and probably keen to improve and modernize the property and estate, Pratt ‘began to pull down the hot house’ on 6 April, and in June ‘began the Water Closets’. At Wisbech he attended a lecture by Sir John Rennie on ‘enclosing the Wash’,46 and in 1847 installed a ‘Steam Engine’ as a pump at Fordham Fen. The previous year 1846 had seen few entries but an unusual reference to his health in June: ‘very ill with Piles’. A tour of Scotland was undertaken in 1839, but from 1840 the entries dwindle to half a dozen a year, just noting particular events, such as the marriage of Queen Victoria and then of Pratt’s sisters Lucy and Harriet, and his 1844 purchase of ‘20 shares in the railroad’. The year title 1850 is written in but there are no further entries. In that year Pratt became High Sheriff of Norfolk (Bierbrier 2012, 444). He died, aged seventy-four, on 28 May 1863 (Fig. 28), a few months after the death of his sister Blanch who had been living with him at Ryston.47 In his will, drawn up on 5 September 1860, Ryston House and the estates in Ryston, Denver, Fordham, Roxham, West Dereham and Bexwell in the county of Norfolk, were entailed in trust for his brother Jermyn and his male heirs, or should this line fail, to his brother William and his sons. Jermyn, his sole executor, was to use the estate’s assets to pay any debts but to exclude from sale his ‘Household furniture Plate Plated Articles Linen Books China Glass Pictures Prints Paintings Models and Statues’. These, with ‘Marbles, Bronzes and other articles of Vertu’ were to be held and enjoyed by his heirs. A later codicil of 1 September 1862 bequeathed an annual sum of £200 by half-yearly payments for his sister Blanch during her lifetime. But on 29 January 1863, Blanch Pratt having died unmarried leaving the sum of £7,500 in her will to him, Pratt made a second codicil to the effect that anything left to him by Blanch was to be held in trust as part of his own will arrangements. Should his heir, Jermyn, die before him, he also directed that Jermyn’s widow Mary Louisa should be paid £500 a year from the estates. His

46 47

The draining of the Fens: the scheme proved impracticable. The 1851 and 1861 Census records show them both living at Ryston Hall.

Fig. 28 A lock of Pratt’s hair from 1863.

trustees would have the ability to make changes to the tenancies, land and other investments, but must maintain and keep in repair ‘Ryston House, and the outbuildings garden and pleasure Grounds and Parks attached’. Pratt left effects of under £16,000 on his death, just four months later. In 1816, at the age of twenty-seven, Pratt had toured Switzerland and Italy with his usual travel companion, Caleb Elwin. On 8 September, Elwin departed for Paris, leaving Pratt alone in Geneva. Pratt wrote (with his own idiosyncratic spelling) ‘Ce fut le premier fois que j’aye jamais été seul dans un pays étranger’ [This was the first time that I had ever been alone in a foreign country]. Writing in French, he echoed words from Corinne, the 1807 novel by Mme de Staël, confiding to his journal that he felt the profound isolation which grips the heart when one is in a foreign town and sees this crowd of people to whom your existence is unknown and who have nothing in common with you. To be restricted to his own company was perhaps his only fear in a life of constant and adventurous travel.

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Stela of Ptaherhat (or Ptaherhatef), the Doorkeeper of Ptah, late Dynasty 18 or Dynasty 19, now EA 77395 (Fig. 29)

Limestone, round-topped stela of the Scribe of the Army of the Lord of the Two Lands Kenro, Dynasty 19, now EA 74847 (Fig. 30)

The stela was purchased by the British Museum in 2007 from Piers Pratt. It is a limestone funerary stela in the form of a false door, surmounted by a small pyramid. The pyramid contains a niche, in which is carved a three-dimensional kneeling figure of the owner facing forward with arms raised in adoration of the rising sun. Jackals, representing the funerary god Anubis, are depicted at each side. The main part of the stela consists of a representation of a door frame on which are hieroglyphic texts incised into the stone. In the centre of the upper part of the frame, beneath a cornice moulding, is a depiction of the solar disc being raised into the sky by the djed pillar, a personification of the god Osiris; this image is flanked by kneeling figures of the deceased in a posture of adoration. Within the frame are scenes in two registers. The upper scene shows the deceased, a man, and his wife adoring the god Osiris, who is seated on a throne. The god holds the crook and flail sceptres, denoting his status as ruler of the netherworld, and in front of him is an offering table loaded with food and drink. The hieroglyphic text above this scene identifies the god and states that the dead man and his wife are offering praises. In the lower scene are two groups of individuals – three men at left, and two men and a woman at right. Though not named, these probably represent relatives of the deceased. They are bringing offerings and their hands are raised in adoration before two vertical lines of inscription. These texts contain praises of the gods Ptah-Sokar and Osiris Wennefer. The owner is named several times as Ptaherhat or Ptaherhatef. He bears the title Doorkeeper of Ptah. His wife is identified as the Lady of the House Merytptah.48 The stela has a horizontal central break. Height 149cm, width 83.3cm, thickness 20cm.

This stela was purchased by the British Museum from Piers Pratt in 2001. On the upper part is a scene in sunk relief, showing a group of deities standing beneath a winged solar disc. The ibis-headed god Thoth, on the right, stands facing Osiris, Isis and Horus. Osiris stands on a pedestal from which rise two serpents representing the goddesses Isis and Nephthys, and a lotus flower supporting small figures of the four Sons of Horus. The lower portion of the stela is occupied by a hieroglyphic text in twelve vertical columns. It is an invocation to a series of deities, including Osiris, Horus, Isis, Wepwawet and Thoth. At the lower right is a figure of the dedicator of the monument, the Scribe of the Army of the Lord of the Two Lands Kenro. Kneeling at his feet and holding a lotus flower is a woman identified as ‘his sister’ (probably his wife), the Lady of the House Hunero.49 Height 91.7cm, width 53.5cm, thickness 23.2cm.

48

49

Description from the British Museum, AES Inventory.

The Sotheby’s New York Sale of Antiquities, 6 December 2006, ‘Egyptian, Classical, and Western Asiatic Antiquities’ (Sale no. 8253) The auction catalogue states: Edward Roger Pratt spent three years on a grand tour around the Mediterranean, including Egypt, from Christmas 1833 to May 1834. His journal, much of it written in French, gives an account of the ancient sites he visited, along with annotated maps and some tart observations on the manner in which his fellow Europeans treated the monuments and tombs. It is possible he acquired some of his Egyptian works of art on this tour, but at least one object in his collection came from the Giovanni d’Athanasi sale at Sotheby’s, London, March 13, 1837.

Description from the British Museum, AES Inventory.

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EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 29 The stela of Ptaherhat or Ptaherhatef, EA 77395 (Courtesy of the Trustees of the British Museum).

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 30 The stela of Kenro, EA 74847 (Courtesy of the Trustees of the British Museum).

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EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Lot 75 (Fig. 31), attributed to the Pratt collection, is described in the catalogue as: A black steatite ushabti of Amenemhat, late 18th/early 19th Dynasty, circa 1320–1250 B.C. holding hoes and seed-sack over the left shoulder and wearing a double wig of zigzag and echeloned curls, the body engraved with five remaining lines of inscription. Height 6½in. 16.5cm.

Estimated at $4,000 to $6,000, it sold for $16,800. Lot 79 (Fig. 32), attributed to the Pratt collection, is described in the catalogue as: A green faience ushabti of Pakhadisu, 30th Dynasty, 380– 342 B.C. born of Tasha(?), holding the pick, hoe, and seed-sack, and wearing a braided beard and striated tripartite wig falling to the top of the rectangular back pillar, nine lines of inscription in front, his face with rounded chin, slightly upturned nose, and long eyebrows and cosmetic lines in relief. 77⁄8in. 20cm.

Estimated at $7,000 to $10,000, it sold for $21,600.50 This shabti is now in the Johnson Museum of Art, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, who give the provenance as: after 1833–63 Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1863), Ryston Hall, Norfolk, England (possibly acquired on a trip to Egypt, 1833–34, or through the Giovanni d’Athanasi sale at Sotheby’s, London, 13 March 1837) [1]; 1863–before 2006 collection of Pratt family, England (by descent) [2]; 2006–07 Rupert Wace Ancient Art Limited, London, England (acquired through private dealer acting on behalf of Pratt family) [3]; 2007 collection of Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art, Cornell University, Ithaca (purchased through Rupert Wace Ancient Art Limited at The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF), Maastricht) [4].

Lot 80 (Fig. 33), attributed to the Pratt collection, is described as: [another] green faience ushabti of Pakhadisu, 30th Dynasty, 380–342 B.C., born of Tasha(?), holding the pick, hoe, and seed-sack, and wearing a braided beard and striated tripartite wig, the ten lines of inscription beginning and ending at the rectangular back pillar, his face with rounded chin, outlined lips turned up at the corners, and large almond-shaped eyes with contoured eyebrows and cosmetic lines. Height 8¼in. 21cm.

Estimated at $7,000 to $10,000, it sold for $19,200.51

50 51

The City Review, online as: www.thecityreview.com. Antiquities/2006. Accessed 2018. The City Review.

Fig. 31 A black steatite shabti of Amenemhat (Lot 75, Sotheby’s New York, 6 December 2006). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 32 Shabti of Pakhadisu (Lot 79, Sotheby’s New York, 6 December 2006). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

Fig 33 Shabti of Pakhadisu (Lot 80, Sotheby’s New York 6 December 2006). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

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EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 34 Bronze figure of Ptah (Lot 85, Sotheby’s New York 6 December 2006). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

Fig. 35 Bronze figure of Osiris (Lot 155, Sotheby’s New York 6 December 2006). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

a short kilt with central tab and braided side-lock, a sash in his left hand, a table laden with offerings before him, inscriptions and Eyes of Horus flanking a shen-sign above, four lines of inscription in sunk relief below. Height 17in. (43.2cm)… The inscriptions on the top left translate: “Sailor of the [Fayoum] lake Maya. His wife, mistress of the house Nub-em-henuti,” and on the top right “His son Huya”. The inscriptions below the scene translate: “A royal offering of Osiris, ruler of eternity, the great god, lord of Abydos, and Anubis in the front of the god’s booth, he in the bandages, lord of the necropolis, giving an invocation offering of bread and beer, meat and fowl, linen and clothing, incense and oil, cool water, wine, milk, and everything good and clean, for the ka of sailor Maya and mistress of the house Nub-em-henuti, justified.” Cf. Bosticco, Le Stele Egiziane, no. 18, for a related example; also compare Breitbart Collection no. 12.

Lot 85 (Fig. 34), attributed to the Pratt collection, is catalogued as: A bronze figure of Ptah, 26th/30th Dynasty, 664– 342 B.C. standing on a rectangular base with his hands emerging from his cloak and holding the was-scepter, and wearing bracelets, broad beaded collar, striated beard with incised beard straps, and close-fitting cap with engraved tassel falling over the cloak in back. Height from base 5¼in. 13.4cm.

Estimated at $4,000 to $6,000, it sold for $33,000. As this statuette is bronze, it, or Lot 155, may be the piece bought by Pratt at Esna. Lot 155 (Fig. 35), attributed to the Pratt collection, is catalogued as: A Bronze Figure of Osiris, 26th/30th Dynasty, 664– 342 B.C. standing on a trapezoidal base atop a rectangular plinth with attachment loop, holding the crook and flail, and wearing a broad collar, braided beard, and the atefcrown with fragmentary plumes and uraeus, the front of the plinth engraved with a figure of Harpocrates flanked by Nephthys and Isis. Height from modern base 83/16in. 20.8cm.

Estimated at $40,000 to $60,000, it sold for $112,000.53 It had considerable remnants of paint on its surface in addition to its historic interest and a close-up image of Maya and his wife was used for the cover of the catalogue. Lot 26 (Fig. 37) is catalogued as:

Estimated at $1,200 to $1,800, it sold for $1,320.52

A Limestone, Round-topped Stele, Thebes, 18th Dynasty, reign of Amenhotep III, circa 1390–1353 B.C., finely carved in sunk relief with the figure of Iufer-bak, guardian of the storehouse of the Temple of Amun, and members of his family; Iufer-bak and his wife, the mistress of the house Nebet-iunet, standing at right and followed by their sons, their other children seated in the register below, Iufer-bak holding a bouquet of lotus flowers and a sash, and wearing a short kilt tied at the waist, long diaphanous skirt, broad collar, and double-wig of striated and echeloned curls, his long almond-shaped eye with eyebrow and cosmetic lines in relief, his wife standing beside him with her left hand around his shoulder and right hand clasping his arm, and wearing a long close-fitting dress with rippling diaphanous outer garment, broad collar and enveloping wig bound in a broad lotus-bud diadem and surmounted by a cosmetic cone, the son beside her resting his hand on her shoulder, holding Nilotic flora, and wearing garments similar to those of his father, his smooth wig with short incised curls at the shoulder and neck, his brother standing beside him with his hand resting on his shoulder and holding a bouquet of lotus flowers by his

Sotheby’s New York Sale, 17 December 1998, ‘Antiquities and Islamic Art’ (Sale no. 7243) Two stelae with the provenance ‘Edward Roger Pratt, Norfolk (1789–1863)’ were sold as Lot nos 24 and 26. Lot 24 (Fig. 36) is catalogued as: A Polychrome Limestone Round-topped Stele, early 18th Dynasty, probably reign of Amenhotep I/Tuthmosis II, circa 1514–1479 B.C., dedicated to the lady Nub-emhenuti by her husband, the sailor Maya, finely carved in shallow relief with Nub-em-henuti and Maya seated at left on lion-legged chairs, the wife clasping her husband’s arm with her right hand, her left hand resting on his shoulder, and wearing a long close-fitting dress, broad collar, and lotus-flower diadem, her husband holding a sash and lotus flower, and wearing a long skirt and broad collar, their son Huya offering a libation at right, and wearing

52

The City Review.

33

53

The City Review.

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EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 36 Stela of Neb-em-henuti (Lot 24, Sotheby’s New York, 17 December 1998). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

Fig. 37 Stela of Iufer-bak (Lot 26, Sotheby’s New York, 17 December 1998). Photograph Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Inc. © 2019.

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EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES ATTRIBUTED TO THE COLLECTION OF EDWARD ROGER PRATT

side, his garments and wig similar to those of his brother, the three boys and four girls below each kneeling on one knee, six holding lotus buds, one holding a papyrus flower, the boys wearing kilts and broad collars, the girls wearing long close-fitting dresses and broad collars, three with enveloping wigs and lotus-bud diadems, the girl holding the papyrus flower wearing a bipartite wig with long tresses falling behind; traces of red and yellow pigment. 26¾ by 17¼ in. (68 by 43.8 cm.)… The columns of inscription in the arch translate: “Storehouse-overseer Tjen; Storekeeper of Amun Iufer-bak, justified; His wife, mistress of the house Nebet-iunet, justified; His son, storekeeper of Amun, Neferhotep, justified; His son, priest of Amun, Nakht; His son User-hat.” The inscriptions in the center translate; “Mayor in the Southern town [Thebes], Teti-ka; Storekeeper of Amun Nefer-sekheru.” The inscriptions at the bottom translate: “His son User-hat; His (?) son …; His son User-hat; His son Aa-amun; King’s ornament Mut-nefer; His daughter Huya; [His] daughter Henut-nefer; His daughter Ta-way; His brother Pa-ser.” For other stelae from the time of Amenhotep II cf. Bosticco, Le Stele Egiziane, no. 32, and Egypt’s Dazzling Sun, no. 60. The style appears to be related to reliefs in the tomb of Khaemhat at Thebes; cf. Aldred, Akhenaten and Nefertiti, Brooklyn, 1973, fig. 46.

and wearing a long close-fitting robe, a tripartite wig with uraeus in front, and the atef-crown. Very rare. Late Period 715–30 B.C., H. 49/16in. (12 cm.). Ex collection of Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1863), Ryston Hall, Norfolk, 1937’. The item is marked in the catalogue as ‘sold’.

This stela, which had been estimated at $150,000 to $200,000, sold for $398,500 and is now in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. The auction catalogue notes that both this stela Lot 26, and the stela Lot 24 ‘had been stored in the family cellars and only recently came to light’. Iufer-bak also had a statue (Liverpool M.13502) and another two stelae (Liverpool M.13923 and location unknown) which are all from the collection of Joseph Sams (1784–1860), who himself purchased antiquities from other collections (see Sams 1839). The Royal-Athena galleries, New York and London, January 2008 (Fig. 38) Catalogue no. 85, Art of the Ancient World, vol. XIX, January 2008, offered and illustrated as no. 204, an Egyptian silver-gilt Nekhbet, the vulture goddess of Upper Egypt, ‘striding with her right arm held to her side and her fragmentary left arm formerly extended,

Fig. 38 Silver-gilt Nekhbet figure (Photograph courtesy of Royal-Athena Galleries, New York).

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Only the first six pages of the 116-page journal are numbered. Pratt’s rather erratic spelling has been left throughout, although some punctuation has been added to the transcription. Modern versions of names are given in [brackets] and footnotes supply additional information where necessary. In addition to the written entries, the journals contain small sketches and tracings and manuscript maps and plans which have been added in between the pages; these mostly have annotations and titles in French. Pratt appears to have given a series of Roman numerals to the Theban tombs in order to reference his small sketch-plans (the numbers do not correspond to Champollion or Hay numbers). Some of these tombs remain difficult to identify since the distance between the tombs is not accurately recorded. His numbering of the royal tombs, however, corresponds to their KV (Valley of the Kings) numbers. [Cover:] E. R. PRATT’S DIARY / Travels in Greece 1832 / Travels in Italy 1833 / Travels in Egypt 1834 September 4th / 1832 / 1833 / 1834 / November [Small unlined journal, height 18cm, width 13cm, thickness 4 cm, bound in vellum, ink manuscript titles on the cover, and on the spine: [volume] ‘IV’ and [years 18] ‘32 / 33 / 34’. The Egyptian section comprises about one-third of the volume.] [On the spine:] 32. 33. 34. IV.1

1

2 3 4

The titles are written in ink on the front cover and spine of a vellum notebook. NRO, Norwich, PRA 752, 1036X5. Perhaps because the Cathedral was said to be haunted. Probably from the firm G. C. Fox, shipping brokers. Perhaps George Nugent-Grenville, 2nd Baron Nugent, Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian Islands (1832–35), who reappears in the journal at Corfu.

1832 September 4 I left London for Salisbury by the coach. I went to see the Cathedral. The man at my request locked me up & left me till it was dark.2 5 I arrived too late at Exeter to see the Cathedral. 6 to Falmouth, Launceston Castle very curious, the approach to Falmouth beautiful. 7 I signed Smith’s papers. I got with some difficulty 50£ of Mr Fox.3 He was shy of giving money having been done out of 40£ by Ld Nugent.4 William Wodehouse is Rector. I left the Harbour at ½ past 12, a most beautiful one. We had on board Major & Mrs Brooke, Mr Black of Cadis, Bishoff a Leeds man, Mr Moor from the heart of the city, Dunsmure of the 42,5 Mr Mason & Mr North. 8 not bad weather. 9 unwell, a great swell crossing the bay of Biscay. 10 Saw land in the evening the lights on shore. 11 fine weather, Spanish coast in sight, the mountains of Galicia, the Moon rose most beautifully. 12 rose at 6 o’clock, saw the Burlings and about 8 the high ground near Lisbon.6 Clear weather & very warm, therm: 71 ½ 13 passed Cape St Vincent 14 to Cadis at 6 o’clock, cd not land, arrived Gibraltar at 12 o’clock 15 The ship’s crew very busy taking in coals. Too near to see the Rock. 16 left Gibraltar at 6 ½ in the evening, too late to see the rock well. The passengers were obliged to hire a ship as there is no Lazaretto. 17 Weather fine Th: 757 18 passed Capo di Gata on the coast of Grenada from whence we went over to the Coast of Barbary.

5

6

7

Probably Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Dunsmure of the 42nd Royal Highland Regiment of Foot. The Berlenga archipelago, a group of small islands 10–15km off the Portuguese coast. Thermometer reading.

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19 Went along the Africain Coast, rather mountainous, the W[ind] E, Th: 77, in the night a tempest & wind ahead. 20 The Africain Coast in sight, high ground 21 very high ground 22 passed within 6 miles of Cape Bugeroni 23 W: contrary, the sea running high, passed near Tabarca, passed cape Negro, stood over to Galita. 24 opposite C: Bianco, passed Zembra, a bare small island resembling Capri similarly placed in the bay of Tunis. Cape Bon is at the end of a neck of land. 25 passed Pantellaria arrived at Gozo a little before sunset, dark when we arrived at Malta. 26 Went with Dunsmure of the 42d and Mr Hockley to choose their rooms at the Lazaretto. There was an Ambassador from Tunis. I had some talk with his Secretary in Italien. I went with the Commander to see the Capt of a ship of War by wh I had an opportunity of seeing the Town & great harbour. 27 breakfasted with Dunsmure in the Lazaretto, left Malta, a jewess and a little boy came aboard. I talked italien with him. 28 Calm all day. 29 on coming on deck I saw Zante & Cephalonia, to Zante to deliver the Mail, arrived at Patrass in the evening by moon light. 30 left Patrass, one of the most beautiful mornings possible, saw Missolonghi in the distance, passed C: Papa (Araxes P): passed between Ithaca and Cephalonia, the passage only 1 ½ mile over. Passed the Leucadian Promontory. The moon went down before we arrived at Paxos. Octr 1 arrived at Corfu early. Took a room at the Locanda of Browne. I went at half past 9 to the Castle, danced with a bella Greca who had been driven from Constantinople. I was introduced to Mr Briton by Dutton. 2 dined at the Castle at 7 o’clock to the Opera. 3 rode out with Mr Ede, dined with Major Cockburn at the Mess of the 95.

4 dined with Custance, made a blunder, I went into the room where the 88th were dining and did not find out my mistake till I had eat my soup. 5 Colonel Omaley of the 88th called on me to request me to finish the dinner I had begun the day before,8 they had a good laugh at the blunder. I breakfasted on board the Steamer. I rode with Hayne and Spencer on a grey horse lent me by Ashurst. 6 I rode out with Tucker & dined at the Castle. 7 dined with [?Ackton], Opera. 8 d: 95.9 Tragedy played by the Italians. 9 d: Ashurst 88th 10 rode towards Paleo Castrizzi 10 sketched, d: 95. Ball at Castle. 11 d: Nesham. Rifles. Theatre. 12 looked at a greek servant Spiro Anastasio. 13 d: 95, left Corfu on board the Greek steamer going to Napoli [Nauplia]. 14 S[unday]. I got up at 6 o’clock we were near Paxos, at 3 near Cephalonia. 15 between Zante and the morea. 16 near C: Gallo. I: Vonetico it blew so hard that we were obliged to go under the shore in the Gulph of Coron, we gained the shore near Scardamoula [Kardamili], an English corvette in sight standing to the W: here the mountains were very high, the weather very squally, we put into Limene. I went with the Captain to see Pietro Mavromichele, he received us in a long gallery at the top of his house which was only approachable by a perpendicular staircase, he gave us dolce & water and coffee, his son Aristacio spoke italien, it was the old man Brother & son who killed Capo d’Istria [Kapodistrias],11 they were both killed for it. Whilst we were at Pietro’s house there fell a great deal of rain so that we had great difficulty to get on board the boat. The old man said the English Vessel was looking out for pirates. I took a walk with Aristacio &c. we had a man armed with us whilst out the English vessel sent a boat on shore. I returned to the house. The officer came to enquire after pirates, it was [?Hon.] Capt Grey’s ship as I learned afterwards.12

8

11

9

10

Probably Major General George O’Malley (1780–1843), GCB for service at Waterloo, and later commander of the 88th Regiment. The 95th (Derbyshire) Regiment of Foot. Pratt abbreviates ‘dined with’ as ‘d.’. The 88th Regiment of Foot.

12

Ioannis Kapodistrias, Greek politician, was assassinated by members of the Mavromichalis family on 9 October 1831 after ordering the arrest of Petrobey Mavromichalis, the Bey of the Mani Peninsula (Wikipedia). The Hon. Captain F. W. Grey was commanding HMS Actaeon, the ship on which Pratt returned.

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There was a vessel taking in Valania [also written in Greek as βαλανίδια]13 or acorns of the quercus Aegilops14 which grows in the neighbourhood. 17 I went on shore with the Captain. We ate dolce & smoked pipes with many people and afterwards dined with Aristacio and left Limene in the evening. 18 the English steamer passed us, we arrived at Nauplia at 9 ½ . 19 I gave 5 francs for my lodgings in the house of a Mr Watson. 20 hired two horses to see Argos, Mycene & what is called the Tomb of Agamemnon, the country appeared in a very distressed state from the troubles after the death of Capo d’Istria. Most of the peasants were armed. In the evening I called on Mr Green15 & wrote home and to Custance. 21 S[unday] I called on Sir Henry Hotham16 commanding the squadron on board the St Vincent 120 gun [?Sh], he received me, I had a letter to him from Brecknock.17 I stayed prayers, went on shore & returned to dinner with Mr Dawkins & Griffiths, on my way on board I call on the Ctn of the Hermes steamer. 22 I dined with Mr Dawkins met Captn Pigot18 of the Barham and Mr Green. I went to a ball given by the Govr of the town, dancing in one, smoking in an other room. 23 I went up the mountain behind Palamedi, returned by a ruined monastery. 24 dined with Mr Green, officer from the Neapolitan Frigate. 25 I went with Andrew to see Ligurio [the site of ancient Epidaurus], the ruins of the Temple of Esculapius. The theatre is very perfect. In my way home some cyclopean walls, called, as usual, palio Castro. We were in fear of being robbed as there was no government, no police in the country. 26 Walked behind the Palamede, dined at Andrew Hays, went to Bruno’s Hotel de York.

13

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15 16

17

Pratt uses the Italian ‘Vallonia’ and also gives the name in Middle Greek as Balanidia. The Valonia oak tree; the acorns were used for tanning, dyeing and making ink. Mr Green, the Consul. Vice Admiral, Napoleonic war hero, at that time Commander in Chief on the Mediterranean Station. George Charles Pratt, Earl of Brecknock (1799–1866) was related to Edward Roger Pratt, being the brother-in-law of the Revd Jermyn Pratt who had married Mary Louisa Pratt in 1847.

39

27 to see the Temple of Hercules at Nemaea [Nemea]. I left at 8 o’clock, passed the plain of Argos and the town & Mycenae to the left, leaving the plain we passed a defile, the rock covered with Arbutus Myrtle and near the little stream abundance of Oleander. Further on we passed a mountain covered with Arbutus, the fruit was ripe & by no means unpleasant. We then descended into the plain of Nemaea in the centre of wh stands the Temple. In the plain of Argos we met Grisotti, a Capo with about 150 of his followers. I got home by 6 o’clock. Grisotti men were quartered in the villages round Argos, pretty thieves they are. 28 dined with Dawkins, met Gropius (Sir Gropius),19 Mr Massoor,20 3 English. 29 drank tea with Mrs Green. 30 I went to Hydra in a Caike for wh I gave 2 colonati, got there at 1 o’cl., slept in at warehouse belonging to the young man to whom I had given a passage. 31 I took a walk about Hydra & eat Dulce at the wife’s of the brother of my friend. 1832. November 1st as the wind was contrary I could not go to Egina. Took a walk with my friend in the only garden in the place. 2 I left Hydra at 8 o’clock passed near Poros, a very pretty country, and got to Egina at 7 o’clock. My boatman did me out of 3 piastri. 3 I went at 8 o’clock to see the Temple. It took 2 ½ to go there where I passed the day. 4 I went with the [?Tailor] see the one column of a Temple from whence was taken the stone to make the port. I saw also a great many tombs and the school & Museum built in the time of Capo d’Istria [Kapodistrias]. 5 I left Egina at 8 o’clock and arrived at Athens at 8 ½, lodged at the Locanda. 6 Mr Green called on me and I went with him to make visits.

18

19 20

Jermyn served as domestic chaplain to Brecknock. In a letter to (Sir John Eardley?) Wilmot (Kent History and Library Centre, Maidstone, U840/C284, 10 November 1833), Brecknock wrote that he had heard from Pratt (presumably Jermyn) at Nice with his elder brother who was going to Malta and Egypt. Later Admiral Sir Hugh Pigot (1775–1857), then commanding HMS Barham. George Gropius was the Austrian Consul at Athens. Perhaps M. Mussuris, Corps diplomatique, Minister Resident, Turkey.

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7 With Pennythorne [Pennethorne]21 to the Acropolis, drew Minerva polias.22 8 drew the Parthenon near Philopuppus [Philopappos], drank tea with Green. 9 drew T of Jupiter. 10 I left Athens at 7 o’clock for Sunium [Sounion]. The party consisted of Dr Ross,23 Dr Forkhammer [Forchhammer],24 Shauber [Schaubert],25 a Greek, Green, Pennythorn, Morgan, Fillenburg [Fellenberg],26 Noel,27 E. R. P., 4 Greek servants & Mr Eaves,28 in all 25 persons. Passing a bleak country we arrived at Vari after dinner we went to the Grotto of the Nymphs, some sculpture, the stalectites and a spring of water made it interesting. Here we slept. 11 S[unday] proceded to Elemboros, dined, the people were all armed aux dentes. We left late as the Muleteers objected to go, & although we had a guide we lost the way and wandered about the mountain. It was wonderful that the[re] was no accident. At last, by good luck, we reached Alegrano. We saw a light & called to the men to come to us & shew us the way, but they, supposing us to be robbers, immediately put out the light and decamped. The house where we lodged had been robbed a few nights before. 12 to Sunium where we dined & spent the rest of the day most agreeably. We went on to a house near the ruins of Thorico,29 ruins of several T[emples] and a theatre of a curious construction. 13 we went to Karatea, dined & went up the hill, had a fine view of the Sunium promontory. I unfortunately

did not go to the Grotto of Pan, said by those who went to be most beautiful as the stalectites had not been broken. 14 to Athens. In the way we saw 3 pieces of sculpture: 1. a woman and child, very good, in the front of a church very picturesquely situated. 2. woman sitting, one standing, very beautiful, in a ch[urch] in a village. 3. a lion near a ruined Ch[urch] we had made [?to] circuit of Mount Hymettus. The country was almost everywhere terribly disfigured by the shepherds having burned the brushwood. Karatea had not at all suffered by the troubles. 15 I changed my room at the Locanda. Drank tea with Hill.30 16 called on Green & Volfenberger [Wolfensberger].31

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22 23

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26

27

John Pennethorne (1808–1888), architect, who made an important study of the Parthenon. He was the younger brother of the architect Sir James Pennethorne. The archaic temple of Athena Polias. Called ‘Louis’ by Pratt. Probably Ludwig Ross (1806–1859), a German classical archaeologist who worked with Eduard Schaubert. Peter Wilhelm Forchhammer (1801–1894), German classical archaeologist and author of Topographie von Athen (1841). Eduard Schaubert (1804–1860), a Prussian architect, surveyed Athens in 1831, including the ancient ruins. His plan became the foundation of the building of a modern capital for the new kingdom of Greece under Otto I. Frederick Fellenberg, the son of Emanuel von Fellenberg, a leading educationalist in Europe, travelled to Greece with Edward Noel, a young cousin of Lord Byron. They hoped to improve the lot of Greek peasants by establishing an agricultural school in Greece (see Noel-Baker 2000). Edward Noel.

[17–20 November blank] 21 I left the Locanda for the Casa of la Sra Vitali, 20 colonati pr month. 22 Tea at Finleys.32 23 24 I began to dig round the Monument Choragic of Lysicrates. Gropius went to Nauplia. 25 drank tea at Finleys. 26 Mr Suter and Mons Raybaud passed the evening with me.33 A very windy night. [27–28 November blank]

29 30

31

32

33

Mr Eaves is Edward Eaves, Pratt’s manservant, who is travelling with him in Greece and Egypt. Eaves is described on Pratt’s passports as ‘un cameriere’ (NRO, PRA 672–74). He is later mentioned in the accounts for 1836 as being ‘paid up’. He is sent on an errand to pay the Rais when Pratt returns to Cairo (see journal entry for 13 April 1834). Ancient Thoricus. John H. Hill, an American missionary who, with his wife, started a school in Athens. Probably Johan Wolfensberger (1797–1850), painter, known for his views of Athens. Probably George Finlay (1799–1875), a Scottish historian who joined Byron in the War of Independence, and bought a property in Athens. Possibly Louis Maxime Raybaud (1760–1842), philhellene and author of Memoires sur la Grèce pour servir à l’histoire de la guerre de l’Indépendance, accompagnés de plans topographiques (Paris: Tournachon-Molin Libraire, 1824–25).

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29 Fellenberg and Noel drank tea at Finleys, there Psillas,34 Robertson,35 Wordsworth,36 Hill, il Conte Botzari37 [30 November–13 December blank] December 13 Conversazione Finley. 14 I payed my romaic38 Master. A great deal of snow on the Hymettus. 15 about 20 men came to the Locanda. They had been shipwrecked near C. Colonnas. The Captn remained to take care of the goods got on shore. [On the opposite page, written on a cash account sheet and pasted in:] Les premieres eglises chretiennes dans l’orient l’occident ne furent que des temples retournés le culte Pajen etait  ;[?eterieure] la decorations du temple etaient fut exterieures le culte cretien etait interieure la decoration de l’eglise fut interieure les colonnes passarent du dehors au dedans de l’edifice comme dans les basiliques ou se tinrent les assemblées des fidales quand ils sortirent des Cryptes et des Catacombes. [The first Christian churches in the east west were only converted temples; the pagan cult was (?external), the temple decoration was external, the Christian cult was internal, the decoration of the church was internal, the columns passed from outside to inside the edifice, as in the basilicas where the assemblies of faithful ?pass when they leave the crypts and the catacombs.]

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22 Pennythorne [Pennethorne], Green, Schauber [Schaubert], Cleanthes,41 il Capitano, Volfenberger [Wolfensberger], Ross, Hartman passed the evening at my house. 23 I smoked my pipe at Hartmans. 24 25 I dined with Green and Pennythorne. 26 27 Dison [?Dyson] smoked his pipe with me. To Finley’s. [28–30 December blank] 31 I asked all my acquaintances to come and smoke a pipe with me, i.e. Louis Ross, Dr Forchhammer, Wolfensberger, Captn Moraglia, Pennythorne, Captn Dyson, [also three Greek names: Ψύλλας,42 Κλεανδης, Βευθηλος], Hartman, Schaubert 1833 January 1st I gave a £ to the widow of the man who had been killed by the Bey. He had been employed to look after corn & being ordered into the Bey’s presence, the Bey struck him & he died of the blow. The Greek were so exasperated against him that he was obliged to leave Athens. On leaving he promised to do something for the widow and family of the man he had killed. By not having performed his promise, Hill got up the subscription for them. Madame Casali sent me a nosegay.43 A rainy day but not cold.

[16–18 December blank] [2–3 January blank] 19 I drew on Barkley for 50£ & received of [?Panaotti] Skuse39 2,000 piastri = 200 ikosara,40 i.e. 1£ = 80 Piastri. Beuthylos told me that I ought to have got 86 piastri for the 1£. [20–21 December blank]

4 Dyson & Pennythorne drank tea with me. 5 a great deal of snow on Hymettus. 6 The Maltese tailor came to me to ask me to protect him as an English subject, he having been taken up by the Governor, accused by Vlacacci of having stolen

34

38

35

36 37

Probably Georgios Psyllas (1794–1878), Greek scholar and politician and editor of a newspaper during the Greek War of Independence. Pratt later writes his name in Greek as Ψύλλας. Probably the Revd John Jacob Robertson, an American, who taught at Mrs Hill’s school. Perhaps Christopher Wordsworth. See note 47. Botsaris, possibly Dimitrios, son of Markos.

39 40 41

42 43

Modern Greek. Probably reading ‘scude’, meaning coins. The Greek name for the Turkish half-piastre coin. Stamatios Kleanthis, with Schaubert a pioneer of urban development in Greece. Psyllas. Madame Casali ran the Hotel Reine D’Angleterre.

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THE JOURNAL FOR GREECE AND EGYPT

a watch, the property of his son. Hill recommended me to consult Ψύλλας [Psyllas]. 7 dined with Hill. [8–9 January blank] 10 The Choragic Monument of Lysicrates was erected about 330 years ago in the time of Demosthenes by Apelles Lysippus, an Alexandrian. Round the frize is the story of Bacchus & the Tyrrenian pirates. Pennythorne returned the 20£. [On the opposite page the following:] On entend sous le nom de Fanariotes une classe de Grecs qui habite a Constantinopole le quartier du Fanar. Noms de Familles qui ont joue du Hospodarial;44 Mavrocordato, Mavrojeny &c.; Ghika (Albanese); Racovvitza, Manol V; Ypsilanti, Morousy (Trebesonde); Callimaki (Moldavian); Guzzo (Bulgarian); Caratza (Ragu).[One understands by the name of Fanariotes a class of Greeks who live in a quarter of Constantinople called Fanar. Names of families with the title of Hospodar: etc.] 11 12 The tailor liberated, the[y] could not prove that he stole the watch. [?Luzzo] accused him of having instigated a servant to rob the house of Vlacacci. [Written in Greek, Ψιλλας] presided at the trial, Vanthelos interpreted & Ross helped to defend Giusippi. 13 Sunday to prayers at Mr Hills. 14–16 I went with Ross and Forkhammer [Forchhammer] to Menidi to see Vassos,45 his wife a pretty woman, he gave us caffé. 17 left Athens at 7 o’clock for Marathon with Ross, we arrived at dark. 18 Went to see the Tumulus & plain of Marathon, returned about 2 o’clock when Falkhammer arrived. Having lunched we all three went to explore the rest of the plain of Marathon. I found large bunches of Narcissus near the shore. 19 Went to Rhamnos [Rhamnous], took a guide at Souli. The day bitter cold.—the remains of a Doric Temple drawn by the Delitanti, 46 remarked the

44 45

Hospodar, a title held by many vassals of the Ottoman Sultan. Perhaps Vasos Mavrovouniotis, a hero of the Greek revolution against the Ottoman Empire.

[?Colegas] conduct so extraordinary that Ross & I placed my pistols between us. [Extracts from a later travel book (Wordsworth 1837, 35), describing the site, are included here, beginning on the opposite page:] ‘Rhamnus. The ruins of its 2 T: stand at a few minutes walk to the W. of the peninsular. Among the lentisk bushes are walls forming two sides of a platform on wh are heaps of scattered fragments of columns, mouldings, statues & reliefs lying in wild confusion. Nemesis was called the Rhamnusian goddess. From an inscription it is clear that the larger of the two Ts was dedicated to Nemesis. We leave the Ts and walk Ewd down a narrow glen to the rocky peninsula on wh the town of Rhamnus stood. We enter the Wn gate. The wall is well preserved 20ft high. The part of town wh borders the sea is strong by its position on the edge of high perpendicular rocks. The beauty of its site & natural features enhanced as it is by the interest attached to the spot is the most striking characteristic of Rhamnus standing on this peninsular knoll. The site of the ancient city among wall & towers grey with age with the sea behind you & Attica before you look up a woody glen towards its termination in an elevated platform where on a natural basement the temple stood. Wordsworth’.47 20 left Marathon, went to the village, followed the river to the fountain round wh are seen large stones in a semicircular form. Further on is a precipice, a most beautiful spot, the Rhododaphne most luxuriant. Found a woodcock near the spring, joined our mules before arriving at Stamata, in a narrow defile we were attacked by robbers. They took us 50 yards from the road. We lost: Pratt: watch, 4 pistols, 4 razors; Ross: gun, watch. On joining our mules I was delighted to see so many things left. My manteau, great coat, W.P. cape. We thought that they might take us to the mountains. Finley thought that it was the peasants of Marathon who had robbed us. It was most probably some of the men of Vossos. 21 I rode with Ross to Menedi. Vassos was gone to Thebes. I drank tea with Hill. 22 called on [written in Greek, Ψύλλας] gave my desk to [blank] to open as my key was taken with the watch.

46 47

The Sanctuary of Nemesis. The quotation (from Wordsworth 1837) was therefore added on Pratt’s return.

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23 The ground covered with snow, a most extraordinary circumstance. [24–25 January blank] 26 Ross, Folkhammer [Forchhammer] & Jocmus [Jochmus]48 spent the evening chez moi. 1833 27 Service at Mr Hills. I went in the evening with Jockmus to Mad: Philelethes’s. 28 Captn Morales called. 29 Dyson & Pennythorne returned from Nauplia in the affair at Argos they said that there were 4 French killed & 17 wounded & 150 Greeks dead & wounded. 2 women were killed. The skirmish commenced a frenchman being killed by a greek.

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‘The Bishop was escorted to the spot with all the civic & ecclesiastical pomp wh still survives in this almost exhausted city. He spoke in the open air although the largest ch: of Athens, once the T. of Theseus, was close at hand. Some of his audience were standing on the rising ground near him and others sat on the steps of the temple.’ Wordsworth. [15–20 February blank] 21 Soirée at Finley’s [?fillettes] [?Lider] Paparigopolo,53 the Russian consul there. 22 I rode with Bell & the Captn Morales to his [?terre]. The Captn went halves with a greek a bad business. 23 Bell said that 1£ = 92 p or 4 ½ colonati. 24 25 drew the Tower of the Winds.

[30 January–2 February blank] [26–27 February blank] 3 Spent the evening at Philolethes’s. 4 In the evening to Mr Kings,49 all the missionaries there: poor Ross of the party. 5 6 I gave Mrs Hill a view of the Agora.50 7 Hartman returned my writing desk. 8 9 I accompanied Ross, Forkhammer, Schauber [Schaubert], Clianthes [Klianthis], Hartman to the Pireus. 10 to Dr [?Cork’s or Cook’s], his wife a Miss Phillolethes. 11 went with Dyson to Anchismos. 12 on dit that 20,000 Russians were at Constantinople.51 13 three French officers dined at the Locanda. 14 they breakfasted with me & I shewed them Athens. We saw from my gallery the procession to read the King’s proclamation who was arrived at Nauplia. Hill & Robinson were there in their robes, the whole town was there. Pd Madame Vitali 15 colonati,52 = 4 icosarias 15 piastri. [He now quotes from Wordsworth:]

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Probably August Giacomo Jochmus (after 1859), Freiherr von Cotignola (born 27 February 1808 in Hamburg, Germany, died 14 September 1881 in Bamberg, Germany), an Austrian lieutenant field marshal, and minister of the German Confederation. He spent his life in Greek, English, Spanish and Turkish service, was briefly foreign minister and Navy minister of the Frankfurt Parliament of the German Confederation in 1849 and finished his career as an Austrian Lieutenant Field Marshal (Wikipedia). Mr King ran a ‘Hellenic’ school in Athens. Extracts from the Journal of the Revd Elias Riggs (Riggs 1833, 309).

28 took a walk with Buchanon & Bellas [1–9 March blank] 10 Sunday. Walked with Mrs Hill and Miss Mulligan.54 Hill was gone to Syra. 11 12 made an agreement with servant: 5 piastri pr day, 4 board, wages & to pay his return to Athens. 13 14 I left Athens having seen the Bey and all his people leave, they were a motley band. I made [?of] a sketch of Porto Léone while waiting for Edwd & Georgio [?Ξορμανος].55 I saw Eleusis masses of ruins. [written opposite:] Peu de jours avant de quitter Athens il arriva une multitude de milans. Dans les récherches philosophiques

50

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52 53 54

55

Frances M. Hill, née Mulligan, American missionary and educator, who ran a girls’ school in Athens with her husband John and the Revd Robertson. The Egyptian Ottoman war 1831–33. Nicholas I sent the Russian army to Constantinople when it was threatened by Muhammad Ali of Egypt. The Spanish pillar dollar. Paparigopolo was the Russian consul. Either Elizabeth or Frederica Mulligan, teaching assistants at Mrs Hill’s school. Presumably his servants Edward Eaves and George Formanos.

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sur les grecs on dit “Les Atheniens s’occupaient sans cesse a observer l’etat du ciel…et l’arrivée des oiseaux de passage tells que les grues, les hirondelles et surtout les milans, auxquelles ils rendaient une espece de culte religieux et tombaient a genoux en les voyant. Leur vol annoncait le retour du Printemps. [A few days before leaving Athens, a vast number of kites arrived. In philosophical researches on the Greeks, it is said: ‘The Athenians were ceaselessly occupied in observing the state of the sky… and the arrival of birds of passage, such as cranes, swallows, and above all the kites, to which they rendered a type of religious cult and fell to their knees on sighting them. Their flight announced the return of Spring’.] I passed the night in the Kaiki56 just out of the passage between Salamis & the land. 15 arrived at the port at mid day and went up to Corinth in a heavy rain. I called on the Bavarian Colonel.57 16 I took a walk to the sea & drew the Acrocorinto. 17 Went to see the Acrocorinto, had leave from the Commander. 18 I left Corinth pr Kaiki & in the evening arrived at Galaxidi passing. 19 I went to the port at the foot of Parnassus & from(sic) on horses to Castri, Delphi. I drank of the Castilian fountain. 20 Castri an extremely beautiful spot, remains of a Doric temple at the convent, triglyphe near the entrance. Some remains have been dug up in the village. The beautiful Carcophagus out of the town has been nearly demolished. [small sketch of the remains of the sarcophagus] I returned to Galaxidi. 21 terrible weather the rain came through the roof. I was obliged to retreat to the billiard room below to take up my bed & walk. 22 too much wind. I drew a tomb. 23 I left Galaxidi, passed the gulph to Acrata [Akrata] from whence I took horses over the mountains to Megaspelion. 24 I saw the convent, an agreeable greek family from Patrass were there. I slept at a meton [?xenon]58 of the convent on the gulph.

56 57

Caique, a traditional Aegean fishing-boat. Perhaps Carl Wilhelm von Heideck, a Bavarian military officer, philhellene and painter.

25 by the side of the water to Vostitza & on to Patrass pr kaiki in 3 H: 26 50£ of Robinson, got a good room at on[e] colonato pr day. [27 March–1 April blank] 2 I left Patrass for Ali Tcheleby which was so full of Palicari59 that I went on to Manolatha [Manolada] where I slept in the monks house, there was only one room. I had the place of honor next the fire. Having said their prayers they shook themselves like so many great dogs & went to sleep; They were very civil. 3 to Elis, few roman ruins, a good spili, bought a penny of [?] IIId & the Venetian republic. I gave the muliteers 12 piastri pr day; when they did not go 6; at the houses pr night 5; for the return of mules 5. 4 to Pirgos [Pyrgos] by a very bad road across a plain that cod yield any thing. I lodged at a sort of Locanda [inn]. 5 to Misaca, in the way I saw Olympia. Here was the worst house I had during my journey. [sketch of house] 6 to Andritzana [Andritsaina] passing two rivers the second in a boat. I made my fellows go through the small streams to wash their feet. A most beautiful country park like. 7 to see the collones, a most beautiful temple & on to Skiros [Skliros]. 8 I went to again see the temple and on the Caretene. [written opposite:] One of the noblest efforts of the genius of Ictinus is to be seen in the Temple of Apollo Epicurius in Arcadia.60 The front consists of VI columns but there are 15 on each flank contrary to the general practice wh wd have prescribed 13. A species of buttress, VI on each side & at intervals of 5 ft projected internally from the walls of the cell & terminated in a semicircular pilaster of the Ionic order. It is situated on an elevated point of Mount Cotylus [Kotylion] 4m: from Phigalia [Figaleia]. 9 to Dimitzana, a town that was one of the few not destroyed by the Turks. It is very lofty situated and consequently very cold.

58 59 60

Xenones are guesthouses of the Greek monasteries. Palikari, young Greek soldiers. The Temple of Bassae.

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10 11 through Rispini to a Khan near a river said to be full of trout. 12 to Kirdessi, a beautiful country, very fine plain trees near the rivers but sadly cut by the peasants. 13 to Patrass 12 hours took up my old quarters at the Locanda. 14 Easter Day, dined with Mr Crow.61 15 George brought his bill charged 12 days return to Athens: George [written in Greek Ξορμανος] Formano: 5 piastres pr day, 4 board wages.

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[14–17 May blank] 18 de Vecchy amica di H: Napolitana. [19–21 May blank]

[20–22 April blank]

22 Ball at Lady Woodfords. 23 to a Festa. Boloxopolo the Effendi was there. I was introduced by Askwith to Mr Leeves, he knew the americain missionaries. 25 left Corfu at two o’clock on board the steamer. 26 We had on board Col. & Mrs Brown, Mr and Mrs Kirkpatrick, Mr Me Mrs Phelps, Oridge, Monsr & Madame Britonniere, Monsr Vt de Brosse. 27 arrived at Ancona about 4 o’clock. I got a room to myself at the Lazaretto. 28 29 dined with Col. Brown.

23 dined at Mr Crows, the Bavarian officers there. –

[30 May–4 June blank]

[24–25 April blank]

5 finished a sketch of the Lazaretto.

26 Ball at Mr Crows.

[6–8 June blank]

[27 April–1 May blank]

9 I left Ancona for Venice in a Trabacola after 14 days quarantine. 10 calm 11 Do.

[16–18 April blank] 19 constantly at Mr Crowes [Crowe’s], he married her whilst at Paris a French woman.

2 left Patrass at 7 o’clock. 3 arrived at Corfu at ½ past 10. Called on Gen Woodford62 and Mrs Drake. Dined at the palace – Mr Glover son of Archdeacon Glover,63 Captn Brown, Lady Nugent was not well, Ld N., came home late. 4 5 Sunday dinner at la bella Veneziana with Greenfield, Tyndal &c. 6 7 dined with Sir Alex. Woodford.

[On the opposite page:] I dined with Captn Phelps & Mr [blank] the partner of [blank] at Corfu. From the 27th to 9 June 14 days.

11 dined with Blatchley. 12 grand Festa. 13 Pic Nic. Heath, Gibbs, Hinchcliff. We took a boat & went to a beautiful garden in wh was a most refreshing spring. We dined near the sea –

1833. 12 favourable breeze so that we got to Venice time enough to get Pratique.64 To the Locanda di Daniele. 13 I went with de Brosse to see the city. We dined at the Cavallino – 14 Do. 15 Do. 16 to the theatre to hear an Improvasatore & il Don Giovanni al Benetto.65 17 dined with Ingram. 18 to Malamocco, good sea bank of stone.

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64

[8–10 May blank]

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63

G. W. Crowe, British consul at Patras. Presumably Sir Alexander George Woodford, commander of the British garrison on the Ionian Islands. George Glover.

65

Pratique is the licence given to a ship to enter port on assurance from the captain to convince the authorities that she is free from contagious disease. Probably the Teatro San Benedetto.

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[19 June blank] 20 I left Venice for Padua. i. Saw the Ch of St Antonio & ii. A most beautiful Caffé.66 21 to Vicenza; i. maison de ville de Paladio, ii. Villa de Paladio, Picture of P: Veronese. 22 to Verona, to the Assunta di Titiano. 23 a Decenzano, with de Brosse and Ingram to see the ruins of the villa of Catullus. On to Brescia. 24 went with the Ingrams to see the Temple and very beautiful Statue of Victory. On to Bergamo. 25 to Lecco. I dined with the Ingrams. 26 I went with Hughes Ingram to Menaggio. Excellent Locanda. 27 28 to the end of the Lake in the steam boat. 29 to Lugano 30 1833. July 1st a Faido 2 to Andermat. 3 I had a long talk with [blank] about Greece where had been some time. He had preached in romaic. 4 To Andermat Sarnen, les clefs good.67 5 to Brienz. 6 I dined with the General, Madame & Mlle de la Harpe. 7 Ingram and I went to Interlaken on foot. 8 9 to Thun 10 to Saanen. 11 to Mont bauvon [Montbovon]. 12 to Vevey 13 14 I spent the day at Mad. Couvreu’s 15 to Lausanne by the steamer, dined with Cerjat

was spent in Switzerland, where Pratt was joined by his brother Jermyn and sister Maria. On 18 October he travelled to Turin, then on to Nice and in November to Genoa and Leghorn, where he embarked for Naples, visiting Pompeii and Sorrento. At Naples Dr [?Zandri] gave him a letter to Dr Hogg,68 who gave him a letter to Mr Thurburn in Alexandria.69 In December 1833 he was at Messina, then Taormina, Sicily, where he embarked for Malta, paying 20 piastres for the cabin. From Malta, he took a berth on 12 December ‘in the Grand Britannia to Alexandria – 35 P[iastres]; eating 1 pr day; servant, ½ pr day’. The stormy passage took thirteen days and the cost totalled 53 piastres. Also on board were the newly married American couple, the Revd Eli Smith and his wife Sarah, with their servant Achmet (later to be employed as Pratt’s dragoman) and an Englishman, Charles Rochford Scott, with two friends (Oliver 2014, 167). By 21 December he caught sight of ‘a number of Wind Mills’, and two days later they reached the ‘Castle of Aboukir’ which the Captain mistook for the ‘Arabs tower’. They arrived at Alexandria on Christmas Day and he took lodgings at the Aquila d’Oro, paying 10 piastres for a room and 3 for food.]

[On 17 July there were ‘letters to tell me Edwd Postles affairs were settled’ and on 21 July he ‘dined with H. Cerjat his birthday’. The rest of the summer of 1833

1833. 25 December. Xmas Day, arrived at Alexandria at midday al Aquila d’Oro:70 camari [his rooms] 10 P. collazione [meal], 3 P. I went to the Tre Ancore I dined with Scott, Mayo & Domville.71 26 called on Mr Thurburn, saw Lady Franklin & Miss Thurburn going to see a Turk’s Harem.72 27 went with Antonio to see the town. I dined with Thurburn. 28 Went with Scott to see the Arsinal & ships of war – Domville & Mayo dined with me. 29 d[ined] Thurburn. 30 to see Pompey’s Pillar. Read the act [account] of Wm Bankes’s acquittal.73 31 drew £20 =1800 P., £1 = 90 P.

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71

67 68 69

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The highly decorated Caffè Pedrocchi, partly in the Egyptian style. La Clef was the name of an inn at Sarnen. Dr Edward Hogg. Robert Thurburn (1784–1860), British official, secretary to E. Missett, British Consul General in Egypt and afterwards a partner in the house of Briggs & Co., Alexandria; British Consul in Alexandria 1833–38. He was very helpful to British travellers in Egypt. A hotel ‘run by an Italian and located on the quay of the quarantine harbour with a splendid view’ (see Oliver 2014, 201).

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They had all travelled with him on the ship from Malta, together with the American couple, the Revd Eli and Sarah Smith. Mayo was said by Lady Franklin to be an Englishman who had spent time in America and the West Indies and had come to Egypt to establish a sugar refinery (see Franklin MS 248/79, 199). Lady Jane Franklin (1791–1875), traveller and second wife of the English explorer Sir John Franklin. William John Bankes had been acquitted of having met with a guardsman for ‘unnatural purposes’, but fled abroad in 1841 having been re-arrested for a similar offence. Pratt arrived at Trinity College, Cambridge, in 1808, the year Bankes received

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January 1 1834 d[ined] at Thurburn’s. Captn Scott, Mr & Mrs Scott,74 Mr & Mrs Agnew,75 the partner of Thurburn, Mrs Agnew a pretty Greque. To a ball given by the gentlemen of the town. La belle Portalis [Pourtales?] greque. I conducted Lady Franklin home about 1 o’clock. 2 I walked by the side of the canal & saw the vast magazines belonging to the Pasha. He is the greatest land holder in the world as the whole country is his. Also, no inconsiderable manufacturer and merchant & tyrant but I believe by no means a cruel one. 3 I dined with Thurburn, the Countess there,76 la bellissima & her mother called. I left for Cairo after tea. I arrived at the end of the canal the next morning. 4 took a [?pest] cangé77 which stuck on a sand bank & as the sail was torn whilst they mended it I visited a village almost deserted. The population appeared very small. 5 I made but little way as the wind was contrary. 6 I arrived at [blank] & as the wind was contrary I went on shore where were some Frenchmen who cd not get on. I went out with my gun, shot some tourtorelles & snipes. A small village, three boys who were about to [be] circumcised were riding about in gay attire.

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8 I set out at 8 o’clock, cloudy weather & very little wind. In the evening I saw the Pyramids. 9 passed the Damietta branch of the Nile, arrived at Cairo to O’smans [Osman’s] house.79 I dined at the Locanda. [Written opposite:] 4, 5, 6 days on the river. 8 On the right of the river the deserts came to the edge. The villages were everywhere composed of miserable

[On the opposite page: a tracing of a print of a veiled and robed female figure carrying a water-jar on her head, probably an illustration of costume (Fig. 39).] The Arabs were amusing themselves playing with long single sticks. I gave some gun powder wh pleased them much. I drank a bottle of beer with Mons Pacho.78 7 I left at 7 o’clock, shot a goose wh I believe was a tame one. I everywhere found good milk.

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75

76 77 78

79

his BA at Trinity Hall. Pratt also mentions Bankes winning the parliamentary seat of Cambridge University in his journal: 1822 Sept 26, ‘the election voted for Scarlett. Bankes came in agst Ld Hervey & Scarlett.’ Captain [Charles Rochford] Scott was the elder brother of ‘Mr’, but actually also Captain, Scott. Henry Crichton Agnew, partner of Thurburn in Briggs and Co., was a pyramidologist, speculating on the occult significance of the Egyptian pyramids. See note 106. Cangia, a type of Nile boat. Probably Auguste Pacho, agent, nephew of Jean-Raymond Pacho. British soldier and adventurer William Thomson (c. 1791–1835), who had converted to Islam. He eventually settled in Cairo where he owned houses and was very helpful to British travellers in Egypt as ‘Osman’ (see Bierbrier 2012, 411).

Fig. 39 A female figure carrying a water-jar on her head.

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huts surrounded with palm trees. An ugly country [?&] much like that near Ely & Littleport. CAIRO. 10 rather cold but a brilliant sun. A great many houses in ruins in that part of the town. 11 I went to old Cairo to see the tombs. A great many have been destroyed, 2 very elegant, Mosque of Hamet.80 12 to the Pyramids de Gizeh. I set out at 7 o’clock and was back by [?0]. I went with 4 Frenchmen. I took 2 guides to each of whom I gave 5 piastri. I saw the le sphinx. dans a shaft from which Belzoni (sic) there was a dead body [?naked]. A sharp shower after my return. 13 My eyes were very much affected. I had got cold coming out of the Pyramid, it was very hot inside and I encountered a very cold wind in coming out. I called on Barker to tell him I had seen a dead body at the bottom of a mummy pit.81 He said that there was nothing to be done [added on opposite page:] Barker told me that Ibrahim Pacha’s house had been robbed & the thieves had escaped. This gave one but a bad opinion of the police of the country. [under this a sketch of a brick tower with windows] but inspecting my eyes that it was an attack of ophthalmia & I had better drop some brandy into them, which although it gave me most excruciating pain, had the desired effect. 14 I went to the citadel where I saw the columns of Joseph’s Hall & his well excavated by the great Saladin. I saw on some of Joseph’s columns hieroglyphicks of the good epoch which proves that they had been brought from Memphis, probably by the Ptolemies, made into columns by them, and employed afterwards

80 81

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The Mosque of Muhammad Ali on the summit of the citadel. John Barker (1771–1849), British diplomat, had succeeded Henry Salt as British Consul General. He retired in 1833. Probably Thomas Jefferson Galloway, son of the Radical and engineer Alexander Galloway, who was in Egypt together with his brother George Washington Galloway, working for Alexander Galloway & Sons, Engineers, to plan the construction of a railway between Cairo and Suez. Thomas Jefferson and his wife entertained visitors to Alexandria. (See The Oxford Dictionary of National Biography for Alexander Galloway. See also Letters by Mrs John T. Kirkland, in Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 1905, 493, information kindly provided by Andrew Oliver.) This reference to the amount ‘William’ paid for his cangé appears to refer to an earlier visit to Egypt by his youngest brother William, who was ordained. There is a further reference on 18 May 1834, in Rhodes, to ‘William’ having christened

by the Arabs to make the hall & they were then cutting them into pieces to make part of Mohammed Ali’s new Mosk. 15 I went with young Barker to see the Mosques. We started at ½ past 10 & I saw almost all. I was dressed in Osman’s clothes. [On the opposite page:] We went to pay our respects to Habib Effendi the Governor. 16 I went to Bulack to choose a cangé; rainy & cold. I drank tea with Mr & Mrs Galway [?Galloway].82 Galway told me that there were as many people in London as in all Egypt, i.e. 1,200,000. 17 I went with the Raïs to see the cangé I took at 600 piastres pr month, 10 boatmen Raïs included. I paid 300 down & 3 to the man who drew up the agreement. William pd 28 [?Day.] 28 × 20 = 560 P.83 18 I walked to see the tombs of the Mahomedans. Went up the Jebel [Gebel Mokattam] & drew the city. I went with Col Campbell,84 Mr Anson & Sir G. Palmer,85 to see the Pacha. Drank tea with Col Campbell. 19 Sunday. I bought some medals. A storm at 8 o’clock. 20 Captn Scott & Mayo called on me. Thé with Galway [?Galloway]. 21 to the Bazar. I bought a costume. In the evening I went on board the cangé. Slept a board. 22 contrary wind. I walked to old Cairo. In the evening a toothache. 23 I went early to Cairo to have a tooth pulled out. Monsr Grant was not at home. His wife told me that she

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Wilkinson’s son; Wilkinson being the British Consul at Rhodes. At Abu Simbel, 10 March 1834, Pratt notes seeing a graffito of ‘William’s name’ but although he may be referring to William Bankes who also left his name there, it is perhaps that of his brother, William. De Keersmaecker (2012, 129) records a graffiti of ‘W Pratt’ (quoted from Dewachter 1971, 161) in the Small Temple; however, the date appears as ‘1881’. There is another graffiti for a ‘W. Pratt / 79’ at Amada, but it is not clear what the ‘79’ represents; possibly a regiment. Dewachter considered that ‘79’ referred to a date and could not be related to a graffiti at Amada written below Pratt’s, reading ‘79th Cameron High’. The Cameron Highlanders were in Egypt after 1881. Probably Patrick Campbell, who succeeded Barker as Consul General in Egypt in 1833. Probably Sir George Palmer, travelling in the Near East with the British scholar Robert Curzon.

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thought the Arabs ill inclined towards the Europeans on account of the Vice Rois changes. He would not take any money. I left Cairo and passed the night near Sakkarah. [a small sketch opposite of his boat with two masts, sails, and sporting a large flag, as he writes of Lady Franklin’s boat, ‘English Colours flying’ (Fig. 40).] [On the following page an ink mss sketch-map has been pasted in. Alongside a cartouche ‘Grand Sesostris’ it shows a pyramid and tombs, including one ‘qu’on ouvrait’ i.e. opened, north of Saqqara. At the centre is a sketch-map of Memphis or ‘Met Rahineh’ showing the ‘petite statue’, ‘le grand colosse trouvé par Caviglia’ [the great colossus found by Caviglia] a ‘capital formed of 4 heads’ and a ‘piece de granit’. Further south ‘Bedrechein’ is marked and Pratt’s boat is sketched, sailing along the Nile. Verso: two cartouches marked ‘Grand Sesostris’ and ‘Memphis’ (Figs. 41, 42).]

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24 I went early to see the pyramids. I passed Bedrechein & Met Rahinet where I saw the Head of Sesostris. I saw the pyramids & two sepulchral chambers, but in a very [?defaced] state. I saw some men who had opened a tomb, good hieroglyphicks, they had found a mummy. 25 26 got some milk at a village. In the evening came to Beni Souef, a very good place for the soldiers, Albanians, one had been 2 yrs in Egypt. Achmet talked Romaic with one. I saw some dancing girls. To the caffé, most beautiful mo[o]n light, a calm all night. 27 the boat was towed. I shot 13 turtle doves, passed Feshen. 28 I passed Abou Girget [Abu Qirqas] during the night. Gebel el Teir, of birds. Arrived at Maniet [Minya] at Midnight. 29 I went to see the cotton manufactury with european spinning machinery, on to Sauadeh. I took a guide at the village to go to the one at the foot of the mountain. I here saw a Hypogée dorique Grec it is [in] the village & used as a greek church. [Opposite:] Gebel el Teir. SOUADI [Sawada]. I embarked & went to Zauyet el Maïtin where I drew one tomb. There were many, & many figures of domestic scenes. I arrived in the evening at Beni Hassan (Fig. 43). On the banks of the river was a man in Turkish costume who proved to be Monsr du puis employed by Mr Hay to make drawings.86 Achmet had a letter for him. I found him & the brother of Mrs Hay established in one of the tombs. I smoked my pipe with them. 30 spent the day in the 4 principal tombs. Made drawings of the hieroglyphicks on tracing paper given me by Dupuis. [On the opposite page written on a page from a cash book, a description of a saqiya waterwheel system:] L’etendue des terres trop élevées pour recevoir les eaux de l’inondation a progressivement augmenté avec l’exhaussement du sol de l’Egypt, ou il n’y a pas des

86

Fig. 40 Pratt’s boat, English Colours flying.

A. Dupuy, French artist, architect and lithographer, then working for Robert Hay at Beni Hasan, making coloured copies of tomb paintings.

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Fig. 41 Map of Memphis and the pyramids.

machines hydraulique avec des roués a godets on y supplie du moyen des seaux soutenus par des balanciers disposes a differens étages le plus bas puise dans le fleuve et le plus élevé verse l’eau sur le terrain. [The extent of the land too high to receive the waters of the flood has progressively increased with the elevation of the ground of Egypt; where there are no hydraulic machines with wheels and pots, it is supplied by means of buckets held up by weights disposed over different levels: the lowest draws from the river and the highest pours the water onto the ground.]

31 I saw the rest of the tombs, walked with Hay to a temple in a valley near. 1st February I went with Dupuis to see the temple, he drew me the figures outside. In the evening I left Beni Hassan. [opposite:] at BENI HASSAN days 3. 2 I saw the sugar plantations Melaom. Gebel Abou Fodde.

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51

Fig. 42 Monuments of Giza and Saqqara.

3 I passed Manfalout. I saw the first crocodiles. I arrived at Siout [Asyut] in the night. 4 I went to see the tombs dreadfully mutilated by the fellows blowing them up with Gunpowder to make lime. Unfortunately the Gebel is Lime Stone. 5 at Siout. [opposite is a sketch of a crocodile under the heading ‘Ghebel Aboufode’ (Fig. 44).]

Fig. 43 ‘I arrived in the Evening at Beni Hassan’.

Fig. 44 A sketch of a crocodile.

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Fig. 45 A plan of Dendera.

6 I left Siout at ½ past 10 on account of a dispute between the Rais87 & the baker I lost the 1st of the morning. I shd not [have] got off then had [I] not put myself on the road to the Governor Hassan Bey who wd doubtless soon have settled the affair, & two of [the] boatmen made me wait after having got the bread aboard. 7 good wind all day, but bonazza at night.88 Ekhmim [Akhmim]. 8 I went on shore whilst Achmet looked for the milk. I saw the stone mentioned by Champollion. I here first saw the doum tree. [small sketch of a doum palm opposite] Passed Girgeh [Girga].

[Small ink plan of Dendera temple and the adjacent gate and other structures, stuck in to the next page. On one side his cross marks ‘des pierres emportees pour fabriquer a Keneh il y a 3 ans’ (stones carried off three years ago for building at Keneh [Qena]) (Fig. 45).]

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Captain of the boat.

9 The Rais went to a Mosque & lost me two hours. Ramazan finished. I gave my boatmen some pigeons. They wd not eat them when they fell dead & wd not bleed. 10 I passed the night where were two cangé filled with Turks who were very afraid of the robbers. 11 I caught a terrible cold & had a bad swelled face.

Meaning ‘Bonanza’, referring to a dead calm.

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Fig. 46 A plan of the Valley of the Kings.

12 I spent the day at the temple at Denderah. [The following page has an inserted ink and watercolour sketch-plan of the Valley of the Kings with the position of tombs I–XVII. Pratt has noted the state of the tombs and some particular points of interest: (Fig. 46)]

sarcophagus – the (?end) of the tomb had never been finished]. [Opposite the plan is a separate list: (Fig. 47)]

Tomb 2: beau sarcophage [fine sarcophagus], Tomb 6: non pas finis [never finished], Tomb 7: moitié encombré [half-blocked], Tomb 9: debris d’un sarcophage [debris of a sarcophagus], Tomb 11: Petites chambres [small chambers], Tomb 14 sarcophage de granit – le bout du tombeau n’a jamais eté fini [granite

Tomb I: ou eté Pennythorne [where Pennethorne was living]89 Tomb II: sarcophage en granit [granite sarcophagus] – Mr Hay90 Tomb VI: bonne tete du Roi en couleur. La tete à la Porte detruite. [good head of a king in colour. The head at the doorway destroyed.]91 Tomb IX: une belle Salle. Tres beau [a beautiful chamber. Very fine]92

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90

The tomb KV 1 of Rameses VII, Dynasty 20, had been open since antiquity, was filled with ancient graffiti, and had been used as a dwelling by Coptic monks. John Pennethorne was living in this tomb. Lady Franklin, who also met Pennethorne en voyage, described him as wearing the Turkish dress and ‘enchanted’ with the ruins (as quoted in Russell 1997, 222–41, 228).

91 92

Tomb KV 2 of Rameses IV, Dynasty 20, contained the pharaoh’s sarcophagus, had been used as a dwelling by Coptic monks, and was lived in by Robert Hay. Tomb KV 6, of Rameses IX. Tomb KV 9, of Rameses V and Rameses VI. The very beautiful hall noted by Pratt probably refers to the burial chamber with its vaulted astronomical ceiling decoration.

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Tomb XI: les petites chambres tres curieuses – Fauteuil [very curious little rooms – armchair]93 Tomb XIV: grand sarcophage la tete detruite [large sarcophagus, the head destroyed]94 Tomb XV: les figures a l’entré tres belles [the figures at the entrance very fine]95 Tomb XVII: grand tableau de 4 figures. Belzoni [large painting of four figures. Belzoni]96 Recto: in pencil, fragmentary notes in Italian which are cut off or obscured: Erment- Thermonthis. …avuto la cura di procurarmi cognizione… du coloro nativi di essa i quali mi…. che un specchio al alcuni grani di vetro di … state ricevuti qui vi egualmente che se f…97

Fig. 47 Tombs in the Valley of the Kings.

[Verso: part of his description includes the following:]

people believe that it was the Tomb of Moeris (Thutmose).]98

…Toutes les inscriptions du Monument d’El Assasif établissent que cet edifice est élevé sous la regence d’Amenonthe – les sculptures compte donc deja plus de 3,500 ans d’antiquité. La position du temple au milieu des tombeaux et les plafonds en forme de voute ont fait croire que cet edifice était le Tombeau de Moeris. [All the inscriptions of the Monument of El Asasif establish that this building was put up under the regency of Amenonthe; the reliefs are already therefore more than 3,500 years old. The position of the temple in the middle of the tombs and the vaulted ceilings had made

13 obliged to tow the boat a great part of the day but arrived at Thebes at ½ past 8. 14 I went to see the tombs of the Kings where I spent the whole day. Pennythorne & Hill were living in two of the tombs. 15 I saw the Memnonium99 & Medinet Abou. I saw a tomb wh had been lately opened by a man employed by the Pacha. The paintings were as fresh as if they had been done the day before. I saw a temple at the foot of the mountain. The 1st month on the Nile, i.e. 30 days – 600 piastres pr month.

93

97

94

95

96

Tomb KV 11, begun by Sethnakhte and completed by Rameses III, contained coloured paintings of elaborate thrones (Pratt’s ‘fauteuil’) which Pratt copied. The walls of the side chambers, noted by Pratt, are painted with unique scenes including the royal armoury, boats, the blind harpists, and items from the king’s treasury. Tomb KV 14, begun by Tawosret as queen regnant, was completed by Sethnakhte, and ‘la tete detruite’ may refer to his sarcophagus which was smashed in antiquity. Tomb KV 15, of Sety II. The door jambs of the entrance were decorated with kneeling figures of the goddess Maat. Tomb KV 17, of Sety I. Unlike the other tombs visited by Pratt, which had been open since antiquity, this tomb had been discovered by Giovanni Belzoni in 1817 and was the most beautifully decorated found at that time.

98

99

The lack of punctuation in this passage suggests Pratt’s own description, but remains unclear. He takes care to make himself known to the local people and a glass mirror is mentioned, perhaps to divert the light inside a temple or tomb. This description of the Temple of Hatshepsut appears to come from Champollion’s Diary entry for 18 June 1829 (Champollion 2001, 222). ‘Memnonium’ can refer to the Ramesseum, but Champollion uses the name for the Temple of Amenhotep III and Pratt is following Champollion as he refers to it later in conjunction with the ‘two statues’ i.e. the Colossi of Memnon (Champollion 2001, 226, 20 June 1829).

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16 [February] I spent the day at the tombs of the kings & saw those I had not seen the first time. 17 I went to CARNAC a most magnificent thing, there are two obelisks. Pennythorne had removed there from the tombs. He lived in the temple next the village. 18 [?When] I got my breakfast I went to Luxor. I had heard whilst at Cairo that the French who were employed to carry away the obelisk had very much spoiled the temple. They have whitened the walls & have built a quantity of rooms on the top of the temple & round it all white.100 The picturesque appearance has been totally destroyed, in fact they have whitewashed the Pharoes but did not appear that they had carried any part away. [opposite:] at Thebes (Fig. 48). Days -6 19 Went to Medinet Abou am to see the two statues. I passed the night at Gourna anchored near the house of the Greek.101 20 I did not get off till 9 o’clock as the bread baked at the village of Gourna did not arrive sooner. I went to see Erment, poor temple. Champolion says that it was built to celebrate the birth of Cleopatra’s Child. The Rais made me lose some time, he went to the market. 21 I saw some good cotton fields, in the evening I came to ESNE. 22 I saw the temple used as a cotton magazine. I saw it a second time with Pennythorne with whom I dined. He went to Thebes. I bought some money of [?Ανπονινος (Antoninus)], of [?Τραίανος (Trajan)] & [ΑΔριανος (Hadrian)] also not a bad bronze figure. 23 left Esne & got near to El CAB. Α Bonacia,102 most beautiful evening, the moon full. 24 I went to see the tombs, two, one very curious. The temples have been destroyed. The[y] stood in an inclosure of large walls of bricks sunburnt, perhaps made by the Israelites. 25 we got on a sand bank & lost an hour but got to Assouan at 6 ½ . 26 I passed the CATARACT in four hours and arrived at Philae at 4 & ½ . I did not stop as the wind was

strong & favourable. Passed the Pacha’s boat with Ld Waterford aboard.103 Je passai Deboud [Dabod]. The Pilot Rais Hassan who I took on board at Philae, dared not go during the night on acct of the rocks. 27 I started at sun rise, passed Dakkeh Kardassi. At Tafah il y a ici a small rapid & the rocks are very pictoresque, then Kalabsche [Kalabsha]. I passed the night near Ostamah. Here was a temple, one stone with the winged globe on it. 28 left at day break passed Dakkeh. Ouadi Esseboua. I went to the village near wh I passed the night. I was shown a stone, it had a cross on it. [opposite:] the

100

103

101

102

This was the French House at Luxor. Perhaps the house of Giovanni d’Athanasi, excavator and collector. Calm, fair weather.

Fig. 48 Journal entry for Thebes on his return.

Waterford was described by Lady Franklin as ‘the young Marquis who with a party of “wild young men” held parties in the tombs, used mummies to terrify their Arab attendants, and furnished guides with references in English extolling the sexual charms of their wives’ (as quoted in Russell 1997, 222–41, 228).

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young Nubian girls wear round the loins a deep fringe of leather thongs adorned at the top with small white shells. [The following page has a plan of the temple of ‘Deir’ (Derr) inserted with a separate sketch of the lower part of a standing statue, its position being marked on the plan (Fig. 49).] 1 March 1834 nothing remarkable, passed Korosko. 2 saw in the desert the temple of Amada & arrived at DEIR. Went to see the temple, part cut out of the rock near the back of the town. In the middle of the town is a magnificent tree, the Fig Sycamore. One boy was impertinent & I ran after him to lick him but he was much too nimble for me. I passed the night near an isle near Tomas. The weather warm. The isle was beautifully cultivated. 3 saw Ibrim. In order to get into the sepulchral chambers I sent to the boat for a rope. Their situation very picturesque.104 4 contrary wind. 5 got to Abou Sembal at 4 o’clock P.M. Having just looked at the 2 temples I continued my voyage as the wind was good. I passed the night where the desert came nearly to the water’s edge except some long grass & shrubs along the edge. I walked into the desert & I lay down on the sand to admire the stars & planet. 6 I started at [?] o’clock and 3 o’clock I was at Houadi Halfa. I went with Achmet to hire three dromedaries to see the cataract. I saw the remains of a temple mentioned by Champolion. 7 CATARACT I set out at 9 o’clock. I first went up the sand rock* from whence all travellers see the cataract.

Fig. 49 Temple of Derr.

The view comprehends the whole extent of the falls. St John.105

*The Rock Abousir. An isolated hill about 150 ft in height [?beetling] over the cataract from its summit.

I then rode by the side of the river as near as I could till I came to the other part of the Cataract. I got my lunch on one of the islands. I returned by the desert and I was thoroughly tired by the movement of the dromedary. The inhabitants of Dongola, though Mahometans, let their hair grow long, it is rather woolly, they approach the Nigros. 8 I left Houadi Halfa [?where] I passed the night was a Goatherd who was established with his wife and family in a poor hut to eat the scanty herbage that grew on the edge of the river. I gave him some tobaco. 9 I saw Ghibel Addeh. Temple cut in the rock converted into a Christian church. In the evening I got to Abou Sembal. I saw the little temple by candel light. 10 I passed the day in the great temple. They had not long removed the sand from the entrance. Belzoni, the first who entered it, had great difficulty in doing so. There is an inscription saying that it was opened by

104

105

[inserted on the opposite page:]

The New Kingdom shrines were inaccessible without ropes, being high up in the cliff face.

Probably a quotation (from St. John 1834).

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Belzoni by order of Mr Salt & afterwards by William Bankes & Hay of Glenplum. Saw William’s name [?&] a fool has had his name put on the forehead of one of the colossal figures outside and be d:[?amned] to him. 11 I remained at Abousembal until 5 o’clock. I saw two men swim over the river. How comes it that the crocodiles do not meddle with them? I passed the night in a desert place. 12 I arrived at DERR t[emple]. I bought some paper [?pepper] & some spirit of dates. 13 I saw the temple at Amada. I drew the protodoric columns. The hierogliphics in the good style. The temple much covered with sand. 14 I got to Ouadi Esseboa [Wadi esSebua], saw the temple & the Swedish Countess106 who shewed me her collection of stones. I got to MEHARRAKA soon enough to see the temple. Two years ago a large part fell down & the rest is in a fair way to do the same thing. 15 I saw Dakkeh (Fig. 50). I took a great many stamps or impressions of the head dress of the King, & on to Girche [Gerf Hussein]. The temple is a dirty second edition of Abousembal. 16 I saw Dandour [Dendur] & Kalabsche [Kalabsha], a vast temple terribly ruined, so much so as gives more pain than pleasure. All the columns in the first court have been thrown down. I never saw a more disgusting scene of desolation. Further on is a temple & tomb Betoualli [Beit el-Wali]. The columns and the inside Protodorick. The sculpture outside very curious. I took the impression of a chariot & a giraff. Reached Tafah by moon light. 17 I saw the temples at Tafah. They are small & without sculpture. One very small, is very perfect, inhabited

106

Lady Franklin had considered travelling with ‘the Swedish Countess’ rather than alone, but it appears the Countess may have been considered too eccentric to be a suitable companion, and Lady Franklin was instead accompanied on part of her voyage by the Revd Lieder. Franklin identified the Countess as a woman of sixty, travelling alone in the region, and gives her

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Fig. 50 Journal entry for Dakka.

by an Arabe. There are the ruins of a great many buildings. On to Kerdassi where I saw a great many greek inscriptions on the Rock & 6 columns of a temple on the rising ground. IId month finished. I saw Debout little temple with three propylons [small ink sketch plan of Dabod] I got late to PHILAE.

name as ‘Këgkenshwld’ (see Russell 1997, 222–41, n. 34). The Swedish Countess was fifty-three-year-old Margareta Charlotta Heijkenskjöld. In early July 1834, shortly after leaving Egypt, she fell sick in Palestine and died (see Oliver 2014, 173). Pratt simply avoided any attempt to write her name.

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18 I saw the temple Philae. After dinner I took a boat to see the Island Béghé. There is a temple on it but I did not land. 19 I drew the interior. The colours very well preserved, especially the blue. [On the opposite page:] On the right side of the great central gateway is the following inscription. L’an VI de la République, 13 Messidor, une armée francaise commandée par Bonaparte est descendue à Alexandrie. L’armée ayant mis vingt jours après les Mamalouques en fuite aux Pyramides. Désaix, commandant la premiere division, les a poursuivis au-delà des cataractes ou il est arrivé le 13 Ventouse de l’an VII. [The year VI of the French Republic, the 13 Messidor, a French army, commanded by Bonaparte, went down to Alexandria. The army having put, twenty days later, the Mamelukes fleeing to the pyramids, Desaix, commander of the first division, pursued them beyond the cataracts, where he arrived on 13 Ventose, year VII.] At the foot of the inscription are the names of Generals Belliard, Latourneri & others to wh the sculptor has added his own. St John. Les Generaux de Brigade Davoust, Friant, de Belliard, d’Onzelot chef de l’étatmajor, l’Atour prem: comm: de l’artillerie, Eppler, chef de la 2me legere. Le 13 Ventose, an 7 de la République, 3 mars, an de J.C. 1799, gravé par Castel,107 sculpteur. 20 I left Philae. I walked by the side of the river, certainly a beautiful & interesting spot. The boat followed me. Some difficulty in passing the cataract. On arriving at Assouan I went to see the granite quarries from whence had been cut the rose coloured obelisks of Luxor. Baruffa [quarrel] infernale between Achmet & the Rais. In the evening I saw a cangé with English Colours flying wh proved to be Lady Frankling’s. I passed the soirée with her.108

107 108

Actually Jean-Jacques Castex. On that date Lady Franklin recorded in her Journal that she found Pratt to be ‘dirty and unshaven’, and that he thought Egypt a ‘frightful & odious country, no plants or flowers in it’, but was impressed by the ruins and indignant at their defacement by travellers writing their names, which he rubbed out whenever

[On the opposite page:] Ghebel Selseleh. 21 I saw the temple at Ombos. I like the capitals composed of the papirus. The temple is much covered with sand. The small one has tumbled into the river. Some Russians were there at the same time. I left with a strong wind & arrived at Ghebel Selseleh. I saw the grottoes & fortunately one described by Champolion as I had gone on board but saw that it must be good from the boat. 22 the wind contrary & strong. 23 I got to Edfou. Edfou: the temple the most magnificent possible. In coming a board I shot at a quail & hit a man & an other tried to take my gun from me. The man was more frightened than hurt. I went off in the middle of the night. 24 We got milk at El Kab. I got to Esne at 3 o’clock. I saw the temple & left at 8 by moon light. 25 I got to Luxor at ½ past 11. I saw Medinet Abou & slept near Gourna. [On the following page a sketch plan of ‘El Assasif’ is attached, showing various temples and tombs and annotated with brief descriptions and Roman numerals relating to the following text (Fig. 51). Tomb III is TT 36, the tomb of Ibi, Tomb VI is TT 131 Amenuser and Tomb VII is the tomb of Rekhmira; other tombs here remain unidentified although Pratt traced the musicians in Tomb V (see Album, page 59).] II – [a temple] en voute / cartouche of Teti / [a gateway] porte de granit III d’ou les francais pris plusieurs morceaux [from where the French took several pieces] IV V: Harp et lute VI: exterieurs VII: Statues. Giraffe. VIII: trouvé par le Turque [found by the Turk], les peintures fraiches mais je ne voulais pas le voir – trouvé par Hay [well-preserved paintings, but I didn’t want to see them – discovered by Hay].

he could (as quoted in Russell 1997, 222–41). Lady Jane Franklin’s original Journal for Egypt is her immediate impression of their meeting, written in haste and hard to decipher. The full version of their encounter from Lady Franklin’s journal is given in the Introduction.

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Fig. 51 A plan of el-Asasif.

IX: tete de femme [head of a woman]. 26 Gourna. 1, 2 [I, II on the plan] I saw two tombs near the mountain. 3 [III on the plan] a tomb wh must have been beautifully preserved before the French carried off so many pieces & defaced much of the rest. 4 [IV on the plan] one tomb inhabited. 5 [V] one very lofty. I finished at the Memnonium. 27 Carnack 28 The Tombs of the Kings. I found that Hay had done as he said he wd do, take a cast of the great picture in the 17 tomb, Belzoni’s.109 The colour was quite gone.

109

KV 17, the tomb of Sety I.

Hay had had the tomb cleaned out. [this note on the page opposite] I came back over the mountain. [On the opposite page:] Days at Thebes, 5; the first time, 6; [total] Days 11. 29 I went to a tomb to draw a picture of statuaries at work. Afterwards I went to the Memnonium & the two statues, and joined the cangé at Luxor disgusted with the Palace of the Pharoes whitened by the French. I left Thebes in the evening and arrived at Quos, a little rain.

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30 I went to look for the fragment of a temple drawn by Denon.110 It had been blown up by the Governor to build something. In the evening I amused myself with shooting pigeons. In the night a great deal of rain which came through the top of the boat. I was obliged to keep it out with a blanket & my umbrella. Edwd obliged to do the same.111 31 I went to see the temple at Dendera and afterwards crossed the river to Keneh where I found Captn Scott, Messrs Domville and Cambell who had been to Cosir. I did not see them – at Kenneh are made the jars used in Egypt to filter water. [On the facing page, a tracing showing a water pot supported on a wooden frame and a pierced filter lid (Fig. 52).] I bought one. They make also the Pipe bolls & pretty bottle to contain water of the same red clay.112 The[re] were a number of girls I conclude for the use of the pilgrims who pass to Meeka [Mecca] by that rout. I went on towards Girgeh, the weather cool. 1 April 1834 The weather so cold the boatman cd not work during the night. It was really cold. 2 at 10 o’clock I arrived at Madfouné. I walked to see El ARABA [Abydos] situated at the foot of the Ghebel, a 2 hours walk. I there saw the temple, much buried in the sand & 2. tombs (Fig. 53). I took some stamps of the well preserved one. Hay had excavated the other but covered it up again. I never saw so many pigeons. I killed 13 at one shot. I spent my evening with Scott &c. at GIRGEH from whence I went at midnight. 3 I got to Mensheih at 8 o’clock. To GAU el Kebir. 4 I went to see the excavations at Gau el Kebir, in the Gebel, a great many without either sculpture or paintings. To SIOUT 5 I breakfasted with Scott. I could not get my boatmen a board, so cd not start till 1 o’clock. 6 Sunday. I arrived at Manfalout early. I crossed the river to go to Samoun in the desert. A hole in the desert said to contain a great many momies of men, crocodiles &c. I went about 40 yards & was almost choked & glad to get out. There were some bodies on the sand at the entrance. On coming out I descended from the desert to the river, but instead of my cangé I found Scott’s. I walked with Scott and Cambell & paid a visit to Domville who was on board and when my cangé arrived I went on board to dine.

7 I landed & went over the plain to Tel el Amana [Tell el-Amarna]. The tombs are cut in the mountain & contain pictures of houses & gardens but as the perspective is very bad they are difficult to understand. 8 I went on shore to look for Touna Ghibel [Tuna elGebel] but found I had passed it. A strong South wind. I passed Beni Hassan & I went to revisit the tombs at Zawyet el Maitin. I took some stamps. Passed Ghebel el Their. A man swam a board for money for the convent. I gave him 5 piastri. 9 weather bad but Scott overtook me wh forced my Rais to procede. I passed Abou Girgeh. 10 I passed Beni Souef & the pyramid Ghibel Haram = Cadab.

110

112

111

Pratt appears to be travelling with a copy of Denon 1802, from which he pasted the prints into his album of drawings. His servant Edward Eaves.

Fig. 52 A water-filter pot.

Clay pipe bowls for the shisha pipe or hookah, which are similar in shape to the clay filter tops.

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Fig. 53 A plan of el-Arabah (Abydos).

[small sketch of Maidum pyramid]. 11 the wind contrary all day. They towed the boat. 12 I arrived at Bedrechen about 9 o’clock. Whilst Achmet went to the town I tried to shoot some curlews. Achmet carried his mother some corn. Scott passed. I arrived at CAIRO at 12 o’clock. Not being able to get a room at Osman’s I went to the Locanda. Thé chez Galway [?Galloway]. 13 I sent Eaves to Osman’s to pay the Rais 3 months. Dined at Galway’s. I had the cangé 3m—4 days. 14 I went to see the piramids. In going I went to the Isle of Rhoda to see the Nilometer. On my return I saw at Gizeh the ovens in which chickens are hatched. 15 I went to Shoubra, the ladies were in the garden. I gave 33 piastri for two pipe sticks. I went afterwards with Scott to Shoubra, saw all the marble bath magnificent made of marble of Carara. At the Locanda I became acquainted with West of the Scout, Captn Grey.

Fig. 54 Tombs near Cairo.

[On a separate sheet, fixed in, ink plans of ‘tombeaux pres du Caire’, I–XXII, and a separate sketch showing Islamic patterned tiles in a mosque or tomb (Fig. 54). The verso has a faint pencil map of the Nile from ‘mitRahineh’ to ‘Bedrechein’ which is a rough draft of the ink map inserted at the entry for 23 January.] 16 I went with West & Captn Grey to see the tombs of the Sultans. Di[ned]Thurburn. 17 Thé chez Galway. 18 Thé chez Hay. 19 I went to the tombs, half the city there. Dancing girls & all sorts of singers &c. I though[t] the place ill selected for such tomfooleries, to say the least of them. Thé chez Thurburn. I believe some pass the night at the tombs of their relatives. 20 Sunday Thé chez Galway. 21 I wrote to Hay, he wd not let me have the drawing. Thé Thurburn.

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22 I went to Boulac a[t] 12 o’clock to embark. I remained there till 3 o’clock when Mr Hanney not coming, I returned to the town. I went first to Thurburn’s & afterwards to Osman’s avec Rosina &c. Here I found Mr Hanney. We embarked at 6 o’c. 23 Mr Hanny was very unwell. 24 25 I arrived at the canal. I shot 1. The green bird with a long tail, 2. A sort of stork, little. [small sketch on opposite page] There were a multitude of birds on the inund[?at]ed lands. 26 I left Giovanni at Thurburn’s & arrived at Alexandria. I drank tea with McBriar.113 27 Sunday I went with Macbrier to his chapel, very few people there. I called with him on the americain Consul.114 28 dined at the Aquila d’Oro. Mr Agnew lent me some papers. 29 I gave 30 colonati for my passage, too much, ½ dollar for eating. 30 I dined with Dr Laidlaw115 at the Aquila d’Oro. I drank caffé at his house. He kindly undertook to send my sketches to England. 1st May 1834 I left Egypt on board the Flora, Captn Inglot. Captn & crew Maltise, sailing under Russian colours. I left a[t] 8 o’clock for SMYRNA. The harbour is difficult to get out of. 2 we have on board a Greek lady & a Sr Justiniano Greek, a young Frenchman who told me he only gave 10 dollars, I gave 30. He gave the same as I for il mangiare, i.e. ½ a dollar. 3 little wind.

[10–11 May blank] [On the opposite page:] On board were 10 slaves & one white little girl. 4 of the blacks had no Master on board. They were consigned to the Captn & given a basket of provisions. They were to be delivered to a person at Smyrna like any other merchandise. The Captn told me that the vessels that sailed from Alexandria to Smyrna & Constantinople had always slaves on board, that a Greek vessel had sailed 12 days before having [?an] 120 on board, & an other vessel 12. A Maltise aboard told me that 30 piastri per head was paid to the Pacha for each slave leaving the country. Justiniani believed it to be true. An Algerian on board had two or three slaves, believe he made it his business to supply the Turkish Market. 12 sempre bonacia.116 13 14 between Rhodes and Karpanto,117 a small vessel from Karpanto crossed our way & instead of going on kept under Karki.118 The alarmed Justiniani & the Captn thought fit to back his boat to Cape Tranquillo & then go to Rhodes. [15–16 May blank]

[4–7 May blank]

17 got to Rhodes early. I went to Wilkinson’s119 & dined with him & Justiniani. 18 spent the day on shore, dined with Wilkinson. William had christened Wilkinson’s child. 19 I rode with the Frenchman to see the interior of the island to a place where were some magnificent plane trees & then to a church (the church or mosk I drew). We lunched at the Greek’s house.

8 good wind. 9 I gave to the 4 slaves who have no master aboard the rice wh I had brought with me. The Captn let them cook it at his fire.

[On the opposite page:] The Greek muleteer dared not let us attempt to ride through the Gate of the city as he said the guard wd beat him. The Frenchman cooked some eggs & we had

113

116

114

115

Probably the Scottish Wesleyan missionary whom Pratt told Lady Franklin he had met in Naples (see Franklin MS 248/79, 188). George Gliddon was the American Consul, the Revd R. Maxwell Macbrair, the missionary. Dr James Laidlaw, an expert on cholera, was active in Alexandria throughout the 1830s.

117 118 119

Calm sea, fair weather. Karpanthos, an island southeast of Rhodes. Charaki, a coastal village on Rhodes. The British Consul, The Honourable Frederic Georges Wilkinson, born in Smyrna, 8 November 1786 and died in Rhodes, 11 September 1849. He is buried in the Catholic Cemetery on Rhodes.

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bread & milk. The village was inhabited by Greeks who seemed pretty well off & not bad sort of people. 20 I left Rhodes for Smyrna. I had been recommended to go by land on acct of the pirates. The French consul wd not let his son go on board the Flora on acct of them. The Pacha frigate in sight. 21 about 3 o’clock we saw two vessels & one fired a gun. We saw the smoke but cd not hear the report. [Continued on the opposite page:] an other gun being fired the Captn believing it to be a pirate ran before the wind to Rhodes. We then saw two vessels wh passed us & the Captn tacked about & continued his course. The Captn said that he had changed his course to please his passengers & when I told him that was not the case that it was his own act & deed he was in a furious passion. During the passage back to Rhodes, I & Justiniani &c. asked for a boat to go on shore wh he refused saying that the pirates cd think that we had carried the money on shore & wd therefore ill treat the crew. [22–23 May blank] 24 a great deal of wind during the night. 25 contrary wind and strong. We were obliged to tack under the lee of a small island when we supped. The wind was almost an hurricane. Isle Piscopia. 26 a good wind. 27 I saw Patmos, a town on the top. We passed Nicaria. In the evening we saw a Gaulette [?gullet], at midnight it came alongside & proved to be an Austrian ship of War looking out for pirates. It has almost frightened Justiniani & the the old woman to death. He was the most old woman of the two. The officer came on board. After this there was no more fear of pirates. 28 We entered the bogaza di Scio.120 [A newspaper cutting is affixed to the following page. The article gives statistics on the population of the Turkish Empire, and mentions a book of 1833 as ‘just issued’.] 29 the wind contrary, obliged to tack in the entrance of the Gulph of Smyrna. 30 I arrived at Smyrna at sun set. I went first chez [?Marque], afterwards to a room chez Arquier, close to

120

The strait of Scio, now Chios.

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the sea. Room 10, Servants 5, dinner 10, dejeuner 4, [total] 29 piastri. I took a walk with Raphael, left my name at Mr Brant’s121 & saw Wilkinson’s brother. 1 June 1834 Sunday I went to the Campaigne of Monr la Fontaine at Boujah or Bougiah or Boojah, 3 miles. Mr L. F. lent me a horse. We went at 7 o’clock, very hot, saw his mother & three sisters. Mr Brelat from Vevey, a vast number of persons a la promenade when we returned. They all slept after dinner. 2 I walked to the Chateau. 3 I took a walk and observed a great smoke rising from Smyrna. Many people asked me what it was. I returned as soon as I cd and found the Frank part of the town on fire. The houses of Messrs Whittle and Barker were consumed. An Englishman lost three houses. A multitude of others were on fire. From the sea the scene was horrendous. I went on the top of a house, it was with difficulty saved. There is so much wood put into the walls that the fire destroyed them. I was told that it was on account of the earthquakes. 4 went to see the smoking ruins. 5 D[ined] Locanda. The evening at Casino. 6 I went to the French consul to try and get back from Raphael the 6 dollars I had lent him. 7 I left Smyrna for Constantinople at 4 o’clock P.M. on board the cutter. 8 a good wind to Metaline. When it became calm the Captn took all possible precautions against the pirates. 9 Pass Cape Baba & saw a boat of the English vessel employed to take soundings. 10 Tenedos in view. 11 near [written in Greek, ΤενεΔος (Tenedos)]. I could see the plain of Troy. 12 Calm near Tenedos but cd not go on shore. 13 passed the Dardinelles. 1st castles. 14 passed the 2d castles. The consul’s boat came on board. Very hard work to pass, the current was so very strong, no other vessel cd pass, there were a great many waiting for a wind. It shewed the superiority of cutter rigged vessel. Against orders to sail in the night. [Opposite:] Days at Smyrna – 8 15 We passed Gallipoli and entered the Sea of Marmara. Nothing remarkable.

121

An R. W. Brant and James Brant were both consuls.

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[16–17 June blank] 18 At CONSTANTINOPLE. At 10 o’clock to the Leone d’Oro. Chamber 20, servants 6, dinner 12, dejeuner 6, [total] 43 piastri. 19 I went to see the city. I saw two mosks but the priests drove me out of Sultan Achmet’s. I saw the Egyptian obelisk. I found from 2 of the officers that the Scout was at Tarapia.122 20 I took 3 horses at 25 p. 75 [?Guide] 5, [total] 80 to see the environs of the city. Saw the reservoirs, aquaducts & came to Buikdere [Buyukdere]. I slept at a house of a friend of my hostess at Constantinople. 21 I took a Kaiki to see the Black Sea. Passed the light house. I afterwards landed and walked by the sea side. Country ugly. On my return I went on board the Scout. I was bitten by bugs. 22 I left Buikdere, went on board the Scout & went to the Sultan’s Valley with West. I dined on board at 2 o’clock & afterwards returned to Stambul. I met Mr, Mad La fontaine, ate ices at their house. 23 I walked to the Eaux douces. Drank tea with La fontaine. 24 I walked to the Eaux douces, crossed the bridge, came to the city walls, followed them towards the 7 towers, returned & crossed the water. [On the opposite page:] The walls of Stambul. Imagine 4 miles of immense triple battlements covered with ivy surmounted with 219 towers & on the other side of the road Turkish burying grounds (the loveliest spots on earth) full of enormous cypresses. Byron. 25 I dined with the consul Cartwright, met Mr Waller from Terapia going to replace Mr Parish. Ld Borringdon & Gough drank tea. 26 I went to the Suliminia123 with Mustapha, the columns of while marble & granite. I gave the priest a dollar. Thé chez Lafontaine. Mustapha said that it was impossible to see St Sophia.

27 very hot. Walked about Stambul. Thé chez Lafontaine. 28 I went on board the Scout. Slept in the Gun Room. 30 I walked up the hill dei Giganti. Saw from thence the ships shoot at a tub. Some Turkish ladies were at the house on the top of the hill. 1 July 1834 We went after dinner to the Sultan’s Valley, the Sultan’s troops exercised. Awkward squad thought I. 2 Actaeon to sail at 4 o’clock the next day. 3 Sailed at 4 o’clock. 4 We passed the Egyptian frigate. 5 passed the Dardanelles. I dined with the Captn, Ld Boringdon, Allen, Mr McKinnon. [On the opposite page:] Scout: 18 Guns—Captn: Honble G. Grey, Lieutenants: R. E. Martin, B. R. West, Master: R. Hall, Surgeon: H. Jameson, Purser: R. Wilson, Assist: Surg: J. H. Carruthers. …at Stambul. Actaeon 26 Guns—Captn : Honble Fred. Wm Grey, Lieutenants: C. Blatchley, H. M. E. Allen, Honble G. Hope (at Malta I had his cabin). L. of Marines: A. J. Molesworth, Master Surgeon: B. W. Robinson, Purser: Michael Arthur, Ass. Surg. C. W. White, School Master. 6 Sunday. As is the custom, the Captn, Ld Boringdon & Mr McKinnon dined in the Gun room. 7 but little wind. We passed outside Miteline. From the Endimion we learned that the fleet was at Miteline. The effects of a sailor drowned were sold by auction. 8 At Miteline I went after dinner on shore with the school master & took a walk in the Island – the oleander in great abundance. At a well I saw a woman who came to draw water she avoided us & afterwards told us she was [?LΕΠΡΑ (Leper)]. The ends of her fingers were gone. 9 We left Miteline with the fleet but left it at 5 o’clock. [On the opposite page:]

[Added on the opposite page:] St Sophia is undoubtedly the most interesting from its antiquity but it is inferior in beauty to Soleyman’s but not to be mentioned in the same page with St Paul’s. Byron.

Sir J. Rowley Admiral 1. Caledonia – 120 - T. Browne 2. Britania – 120 - P. Ranier 3. Thunderer – 84 - W. F. Wise 4. Talevera – 74 - E. Chetham

122

123

The British Embassy was at Therapia on the Bosphorus.

Suleymaniye mosque.

THE JOURNAL FOR GREECE AND EGYPT

5. Edinburgh – 74 - E. B. Dacres 6. Actaeon – 26 - Hble Fred. Grey 7. Tine – 28 - Ld Ingestre 8. Endimion – 50 - Sir S. Roberts 9. Favorite – 18 - G. R. Mundy [total guns] 594. Allen exchanged on board the Favorite. 10 passed Cape Coonas near enough to see the temple. 11th saw a grampus124 [Tiny sketch of an orca]

65

25 The missionary left the Lazaretto. 26 Mr and Mrs Arundel arrived. 27 Captn Cameron of 42 left. I went on the harbour with the Pilot. 28 Contessa Guccioli di Ravenna, amica di Biron.128 29 the Pole left. 30 31 I saw Thurburn & his 2 nephews. Cambell told me Domville & Rosina. 1 August 1834 Corfu steamer came in 2 3 Allen and King came to see me. 4 5 read the Contemporeine x Vols.129

[12–13 July blank] 14 130 miles from Malta 15 a bad thing to have the scuttle open in blowing weather. 16 27 m. from Malta. 17 Malta at 2 o’clock in the morning. I went to the Parlatorio.125 The Mids played at Coits. 18 I got a lunch wth Mids. Went with Weston to the Lazaretto, obliged to kick up a dust to get a good room. 19 An officer of the 42d said that the columns of the Sulemanie were taken from the temple at Ephasus. 20 Captn Fisk & Major Gascoyne came. [opposite: a newspaper cutting showing the temperature and wind figures from 16–22 July and three others similar on the following pages; also the note: ‘I had my dinner from Michaleto. Mr Wolf came one day to see a missionary, & Lady Georgiana126 the next to see me.’] 21 22 23 24

124 125 126

127 128

129

My wines were Ithaca, Siracuse & Bordeaux. Allen of the Favorite came for his things. Gascoyne lent me Moors life of Byron.127 Saw Dunsmure of the 42d.

An orca. Parlatorio wharf. The missionary Joseph Wolff and his wife Lady Georgiana Walpole. Moore 1830. Teresa, Contessa Guiccioli (1800–1873) was the mistress of Lord Byron whilst he was living in Ravenna, Italy, and writing the first five cantos of Don Juan. Probably the memoirs of Ida Saint-Elme (1778–1845), a Dutch adventuress, courtesan and writer: La Contemporaine en Égypte,

[opposite: a newspaper cutting showing the temperature and wind figures from 23 July–5 August.] 6 7 Bill at lazaretto £2. 17s. 6d., furniture pr day 2sh. 6d. =7s. 8d., [total] £3. 5s. 2d. 8 dined with Gascoyne. After dinner I saw the parade of the 94th, the English burial ground, the tomb of Lady Errol, wife of Mr Frere,130 like the T of Scipio in Marble of Carara. 9 D[ined] Dunsmure 42d. Called on Lady G. Wolff & Mr Frere. 10 D[ined] Mr Frere at 8 o’clock at La Pieta. 11 took the cabin of a Spironara,131 25 Sicilian dollars of 4sh. 2d. 12 D[ined] Dunsmure, to Lady Briggs ball. 13 started in the evening for Messina. [Pratt continued his journey back through Naples, Genoa and Leghorn to Turin where on an overnight stay on 27 August, he wrote: ‘I saw the Egyptian Museum’. The journal ends on 31 August 1834, and the remainder of the notebook is filled with sections of Pratt’s own pencil, ink and watercolour maps of the

130

131

pour faire suite au Souvenirs d’une femme, sur les principaux personnages de la République, du consulat, de l’empire et de la Restauration. Chez ladvocat, libraire de S.A.R. le Duc d’Orleans, Paris, 1831. Lady Errol, widow of Lord Errol, was the wife of John Hookham Frere. They had moved to Malta for her health and she died there. A type of Maltese boat.

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sites along the Nile, all on individual sheets which have been fixed in. The sheets have been cut at points which also cut off some of the verso text, as he has reused the paper. His maps are annotated with references to the

dates of his stay at specific sites and monuments, and include brief descriptions. Some diary entries are also added against various sites, e.g. at ‘Girgeh’: ‘Je passai la soiree avec Scott’ [I passed the evening with Scott].]

PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

Eight separate maps of the passage of the Nile cover his journey from Cairo to Wadi Halfa: Cairo to Beni Souef (Fig. 55) A sheet (Fig. 42) references pyramids, a tomb, and the sphinx at ‘Jizeh’[Giza]. Below this, references for ‘Sakkarah’ and a plan of the ‘Grand Tombeau’ [Great Tomb] there. A small sketch shows the pyramid at Meidum. Opposite is this rough map of sites on the Nile between Cairo and Beni Souef. On the verso of this sheet are the remains of various notes for the prices

of boats and boat-men, which appear to be recommendations and advice: ‘Mr Galloway the Pacha (sic) Engi[neer] has a house at Alexandria & o[ne at] Cairo is most hospitable. [Ale]xandria you go up the canal to the Nile: 35P for the Boat, 6P for the Men… Cairo from the canal 6 dollars, 3 days. …the Man… …to Upper Egypt 28 dollars per Month (30 days)… the Servant for 20 piastres per month.’ Below a list of the pyramids and tombs, Pratt noted: ‘Pyramides, des masses énormes et de si peu d’effet lorsqu’on les voit de près’. [Pyramids, huge masses and of so little effect when one sees them close-up].

Fig. 55 Cairo to Beni Souef. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

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PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

Fig. 56 Feshen to Souadi/Zawiyet el-Maitin. (Norfoli Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

Feshen to Souadi/Zawiyet el-Maitin (Fig. 56) This sheet continues the map of sites on the Nile from ‘Feshen to ‘Souadi’ and ‘Zaouyet-el Maietin’. Pratt calculates (by working from Champollion’s Diary dates) that Champollion took nine days from Bedreshein to Minieh. Some villages are marked in pencil. On the verso are groundplans of five tombs at Beni Hasan. At Ashmunein he notes that the monuments have recently been destroyed. He is slightly consoled by having discovered a very interesting monument of which he notes no-one has yet spoken. This is a little ‘T’ [tomb] carved into the rock at ‘Beni-hassan-el aamar’. He states that it was begun by Thutmose IV and is decorated with beautiful coloured bas-reliefs. For this he gives a small plan. A small sketch shows a man emerging from a tomb shaft at ‘Samoun’, probably the one visited and described on 6 April 1834 (Fig. 57). He notes: ‘15 jours à Beni Hassan. Dans les deux premiers hypogées une

Moison immense. 2 tombes vers le nord. Les portes des hypogées sont précédés d’un portique taillé a [?jour] dans le roc. Les peintures du tombeau de Nehothph sont de veritable gouaches – ici se voient des captifs Greques… [15 days to Beni Hasan. In the first two underground chambers, an immense collection. 2 tombs towards the north. The doors to the tombs are preceded by a portico cut out of the rock. The paintings in the tomb of Nehothph are true gouaches – here can be seen the Greek captives.] 8 hours from Beni Hassan [to] Tel el Amana – Pennythorne – les maisons et la vie domestique.’ Beni Hasan to Qaw el-Kebir (Fig. 58) The next, more detailed, sheet continues the map of the Nile sites from Beni Hasan up to ‘Gau el Kebir’. It is annotated and indicates excavations, monuments of interest, and journey times between sites. A cache of

PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

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mummified cats is noted, perhaps at Beni Hasan:132 ‘Hypogées de CHATS creusés dans le Roc sous le sable est un grand banc de momies de chats, pliés dans des nattes’ [Underground chambers of cats. Dug out of the rock under the sand is a great bench of cat-mummies, wrapped in mats]. There is a small sketch of rockcut tombs at ‘Gau’. On the verso: a plan of tombs and temples at ‘El Arabah Madfouné’ [Abydos] (Fig. 53) where Hay recommended that the Table of the Kings [the Abydos king-list] was ‘worth seeing’. Pratt notes that only debris remained at Antinoe. He found the reliefs at ‘Denderah… detestable, ils sont d’un temps de decadence’ [detestable, they are from a decadent period]. A small pink-wash sketch-plan appears to be a ?tomb at ‘El Arabah/Madfoune’ [Abydos] (Fig. 53). ‘Gau’ to Dendera (Fig. 59) Another sheet continues his annotated map of the Nile from ‘Gau’ to Dendera with a list of sites and monuments, noting the dates of his arrival at sites, a Ptolemaic temple at Akhmim, and some excavations at ‘Ghebel Eredi’ (Gebel elSheikh el-Haridi). On the verso: a pencil list of sights at Thebes. Also, notes on the ‘grand temple – magazin de coton – des sculptures detestables’ [Great Temple – cotton warehouse – detestable sculpture].

Fig. 57 The pit at Samoun.

‘Kous’ to ‘Edfou’ (Fig. 60)

‘Ghebel Selseleh’ to Philae (Fig. 61)

Another sheet continues his map of the Nile from ‘Kous’ to ‘Edfou’. Most annotations mark the duration of his stay and briefly note tombs and temples. On the verso: a pencil map of a great temple with an avenue leading to it, probably Luxor.

Another sheet continues his map from ‘Ghebel Selseleh’, noting there were rich inscriptions to be found there, to Philae. At Ombos temple he noted everything was of a Greek date and the small temple would soon be engulfed by the Nile. Similarly Philae was of

132

A tomb of cat mummies was later discovered in 1888 at Beni Hasan containing an estimated 80,000 feline burials (Wikipedia).

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PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

Fig. 58 Beni Hasan to Qaw el-Kebir. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

Fig. 59 ‘Gau’ to Dendera. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

Fig. 60 ‘Kous’ to ‘Edfou’. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

Fig. 61 ‘Ghebel Selseleh’ to Philae. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

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72

PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

Fig. 62 Philae to Maharraqa. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

Fig. 63 es-Sebua to Wadi Halfa. (Norfolk Record Office PRA 752, 1036X5.)

PRATT’S OWN HAND-DRAWN MAPS AND PLANS OF EGYPT

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a late period: ‘tout y est moderne’ [everything there is modern]. On the verso, notes on Dakka observe that the oldest part of the temple had been decorated by the Ethiopian king Ergamenes, while other parts were Ptolemaic. Pratt references Diodorus Siculus. Philae to Maharraqa (Fig. 62) Another sheet continues his map from Philae to Maharraqa, noting the sites of the various temples along the river. es-Sebua to Wadi Halfa (Fig. 63) Another sheet continues his map from es-Sebua to Wadi Halfa, noting the sites of the various temples on the Nile. The verso has rough pencil notes of the dates he was at various sites. A further sheet shows small groundplans of numbered ‘Tombeaux pres du Caire’ [Tombs near Cairo], with a small sketch showing a design of Islamic tiling and calligraphy on the walls of a mosque (Fig. 54). ***** Fig. 64 List of things left at Genova.

Diary of E. R. Pratt 1789–1849 Ryston133 This separate diary of his day-to day life contains some additional notes on a loose sheet of paper which relate to his travels and his trip to Egypt: (Fig. 64)

1 2 1 2 2 2 5

‘Palmier Doum, Cuciffera Thebaica.134

bolster fine blankets thick do pr of Cotton Sheets Musceto Nets Blue Shirts towels - Edwd Eaves’

Antiquities of Sicily by Goldicutt published March 1819 by John Murray, Albemarle Street— I gave 600 Piasti pr Month for the Cangé135 all included & Achmet 10 Dollars pr month 4 Piastres board wages whilst at Cairo & Alexandria------Things left at Corfu Genova 1834 1 mattress & case 1 pillow & case

Pasted into the back of this diary is a newspaper cutting listing the events in the life of ‘Buonaparte’ and a newspaper cutting of an obituary for Edward Roger Pratt senior.

133

135

134

NRO, PRA 745. Cucifera thebaica is the Latin name for the Egyptian doum palm tree.

Cangia, a type of Nile boat used by travellers.

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Pratt habitually refers to sketching on his travels at home and abroad, but the only drawings remaining in the possession of the Pratt family are those he made in Egypt. It appears that six unattributed albums sold at auction by the Pratt family at Sotheby’s London on 13 June 1966 are likely to contain Pratt’s drawings and paintings from Switzerland, Italy, France and Greece. These appear to have been compiled in a scrapbook format, in a similar manner to his Egyptian work, with titles and dates and accompanying prints. As Lot 39 they are described as: Switzerland. A series of six large scrapbook albums containing a large number of watercolour drawings of Swiss scenery c. 1816–36, also coloured and uncoloured engravings of the country, with similar watercolours and engravings of France, Greece and Italy, all but a few identified with contemporary inscriptions, many dated, contemporary half calf or half russia, covers of one vol. missing. Oblong folio (6).

These albums were purchased at the auction by ‘Dawson’ for £500. This was Dawson’s of Pall Mall or Dawson Rare Books, an antiquarian bookseller which no longer exists today. Dawson’s ledgers, however, survive and show that ‘M. Tisserand’ purchased the albums from them on 27 October 1967 for £200. Tisserand was the name of what in the English book trade is called a ‘runner’, that is a dealer who doesn’t hold stock but buys from one dealer and ‘runs it’ to another. Maurice Tisserand (known as Momo) was very active in the 1950s and 1960s buying in England and selling into the French trade, so it is possible that the albums are now in France.1 Pratt’s drawings and paintings from Egypt are pasted into a large scrapbook album of 136 pages, together with related prints, squeezes, and personal souvenirs: a studied compilation of material which presents a glimpse of a gentleman-traveller’s interests and what he personally considered worthy of recording. Pratt

1

For this information I am most grateful to Emma Walshe, Ian Smith, Jolyon Hudson, John Boyle and Keith Fletcher.

declared little interest in the temple reliefs, which he deemed repetitious, and his album contains only a single example of a small-scale, detailed, free-hand drawing of reliefs (from the Speos Artemidos) which may, therefore, be the drawing he mentions as being given to him by Robert Hay’s artist Dupuy. On one level the album represents a personal souvenir of his travels, with a copy of his firman (a permission to travel), his contract for the Nile boat and crew (both in Arabic) and his invitation to a ball in Alexandria. In a similar vein he chooses to sketch elements particular to the country, such as camels, Nile sailing boats, and the saqiya waterwheel, as well as what were already famous landmarks such as the Roman triumphal column known as Pompey’s Pillar and the obelisk and fort in Alexandria. Since he also made drawings of temples and tombs set in their landscapes at virtually every site where he stopped, the drawings remain a valuable record of the state of the monuments in 1834; many of them have been subsequently damaged or entirely lost. Pratt’s awareness of the impact of the French invasion of Egypt in 1798 and the resulting contribution to our knowledge of the country, both ancient and modern, by the scholars of the accompanying Commission of Arts and Sciences, is demonstrated by his adding portraits of the generals Bonaparte and Kléber, a map of the battle of Aboukir, and the prints published by Dominique Vivant Denon, and also his use of JeanFrançois Champollion’s writings as a travel guide. He would certainly have seen copies of the Description de l’Égypte, the multi-volume publication of the savants – scientists, artists, architects and engineers – of the Commission, although the large size of its volumes made it impractical for travellers to carry with them. It is not clear whether he could have had access to Champollion’s great posthumous production, the four-volume Monuments de l’Égypte et de la Nubie, as the publication date is generally given as 1834–45. It seems much more likely that he may have obtained

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a copy of Lettres écrites d’Égypte et de Nubie en 1828 et 1829, Champollion’s letters based on his diary entries made on the joint Franco-Tuscan expedition of 1828–29 with the Italian Egyptologist Ippolito Rosellini, since the publication date for this work is 1833. The letters would certainly have provided a useful guide for a fluent French-speaker like Pratt. The references Pratt makes to Champollion in his own journal entries certainly point to the Lettres. For example at Akhmim, where there were two temples, Ptolemaic and Roman, west of the village, he writes: ‘I saw the stone mentioned by Champollion’. This was a sandstone block with a bas-relief showing a king adoring the god Min, which Champollion described in his diary on 12 December 1828. Pratt also noted on one of his own sketch maps that Champollion took nine days to get from ‘Bedreshein’ to Minieh. At ‘Ermant’ (Armant) Pratt wrote: ‘I went to see Erment, poor temple. Champolion [sic] says that it was built to celebrate the birth of Cleopatra’s Child’ (Journal, 20 February 1834; see Champollion 1986, 16). At Beni Hasan are ‘les figures dont parle Champollion. T. Nehothph’ (figures of which Champollion speaks) (Album, page 23). Pratt gives the name Nehothph, which is used by Champollion in his diary, for the tomb-owner, although some editions of the Lettres give the name as Nebothph. Elsewhere Pratt specifically uses the terms ‘described by Champollion’ or ‘mentioned by Champollion’ and there are even direct quotations. Pratt augments his own drawings and paintings with prints of the same subjects. A plate apparently from Antiquities and Views in Greece and Egypt, etc. (1790– 91) by Richard Dalton is a rare inclusion of an English work, as are a few copies of images from James Burton’s Excerpta hieroglyphica. Virtually all Pratt’s own drawings are titled with the name of the site and dated, and he identifies the cartouches. While he has no pretensions to a scholarly decipherment of the inscriptions, he is aware of the significance of these cartouches, bearing royal names and therefore representing history and chronology. Ink and wash is his preferred medium although full watercolour is deployed for the more finished pictures. Architectural details are of particular interest, as are reliefs showing musicians. Tracings and squeezes render elements of the reliefs and paintings at life size, particularly the heads and crowns of royal portraits. This idea, like that of taking squeezes, may also derive from Robert Hay, since the latter produced a series of casts of royal portraits. Tracing may have been a preferred option given that Pratt is aware

and highly critical of the fact that the application of damp paper for squeezes can lift off the surface colours. His ink-wash or watercolour drawings of the façades and interiors of tombs appear to be accurate unromanticized views which record the actual state of the monuments at that time. The tombs of Beni Hasan were especially attractive to travellers with their wellpreserved coloured images of intriguing figures, which he represents as full-scale tracings. At Thebes, he traced the reliefs of working craftsmen in the tomb of Rekhmira. Pratt’s copies of reliefs from Tell el-Amarna tombs are particularly notable since there were no examples of Amarna art in European collections before 1826 and Champollion himself only stopped at that site briefly and did not record the rock-cut tombs (Hornung 1999, 2). Accentuating Pratt’s love of nature, his watercolour sketches of birds are unusual and attractive, and with the addition of the actual feathers, pinned through the paper, sufficiently detailed to identify the species. We probably owe much of his recording efforts on his voyage to the solitude to which he was demonstrably unused and to his enthusiastic curiosity and need for constant activity. As well as the more finished work in the album, Pratt inserted small sketches, tracings and manuscript maps and plans amongst his journal entries; these mostly have annotations and titles in French. (This does not imply a French companion, as Pratt switches between English and French in his journals.) His coloured maps plot the course of his journey on the Nile, adding the dates of his arrival at sites. Pratt appears to have given his own numbers to Theban tombs (they do not correspond to Champollion or Hay numbers), but although these numbered tombs are shown on his map and plans, some remain difficult to identify since the distances shown between his tombs are not accurate. His numbering of the royal tombs, however, corresponds to their KV (Valley of the Kings) numbers. Many of the prints in the album are from Vivant Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte (originally published in Paris, 1802). Dominique Vivant, Baron Denon (1747–1825), was a French diplomat, antiquary and author. He had joined Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign in 1798, accompanying the army throughout Upper Egypt, tasked with recording the Egyptian monuments and collecting antiquities. His book would have appealed to Pratt as it presented an adventurous journey of discovery undertaken with Napoleon’s military expedition and contained plates illustrating the ancient sites and antiquities as well as

THE ALBUM

contemporary Egyptian life. The lively tone of Denon’s text is that of a personal travel account, a Journal de Voyage; the effect is of spontaneous impressions and faithful drawings. The volumes were an immediate success and twenty editions were published in the first few months after its appearance. Produced soon after Denon’s return to France, it pre-dated the lengthy publication of the monumental and scholarly volumes of the scientific expedition’s Description de l’Égypte, and was more accessible in both style and format. The translations, into English in 1802, German and Dutch in 1803 and Italian in 1808, were met with equal enthusiasm. By 1952 there had been no less than forty editions, translations and adaptations, some with differing titles (Ghali 1986, 182–84). Many of the prints in Pratt’s album are engraved as ‘Publié par S. Bagster à Londres’ and he cut out small sections of the plates and stuck them into the album to fit the spaces left by his own drawings. Samuel Bagster published editions of the Voyage from his premises in the Strand, London in 1807 and 1809, and the plate numbers of his version differ from those of the original publication. On his return to France Denon became DirectorGeneral of Museums and played an important part in creating the Louvre collections (Bierbrier 2012, 150). However it was not until 1826, with Champollion appointed as curator, that a new department specifically for Egyptian collections was established in the Louvre. Under Champollion’s direction it was arranged and classified along scientific and historical principles. Champollion deplored the despoiling of the monuments although he did remove bas-reliefs from the tomb of Sety I in the Valley of the Kings and made purchases in Alexandria. In Cairo, at the end of his expedition to Egypt in late September 1829, Champollion had bought more than a hundred antiquities for the Louvre, using the 10,000-franc budget the French government had belatedly allowed him (Robinson 2012, 223). Notes on the Album Pratt’s album comprises 136 pages with a mixture of ink and pencil drawings, watercolours, sepia-wash drawings, prints from publications, squeezes, and tracings from Egypt and Nubia.

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The sites and subjects include: Alexandria, Cairo, Giza, Memphis, Saqqara, Gebel el-Teir, Zawyet el-Maiyitin, Beni Hasan and the Speos Artemidos, Tell el-Amarna, Gebel ‘Abou Fodde’ (Gebel Abu Foda, near Deir el-Quesir village), Asyut, ‘el-Arabah Madfoune’ (Abydos), Dendera, Thebes (including the Memnon colossi, Theban tombs TT 100, TT 131 and others, the Valley of the Kings, el-Asasif, Qurna, the Ramesseum, Medinet Habu, Karnak and Luxor temples), Armant, Elkab, Gebel Silsela, Kom Ombo, Aswan, Philae, Tafa, Dabod, Qertassi, Beit elWali, Dendur, Dakka, Gerf Hussein, Maharraqa, esSebua, Amada, Derr, Qasr Ibrim, Abu Simbel, Gebel Adda and the Second Cataract. Despite the title of the album, it appears that one of the drawings (Album page 134) may have been made by Pratt’s brother William on an earlier journey to Egypt. It is initialled ‘WP’ and dated ‘1831’. Where not specifically mentioned as loose, the items are stuck down on to the pages. Some drawings can be lifted slightly to check the verso, as they are stuck at the edges only. Red sealing-wax impressions on some corners of the album pages were probably intended to separate the drawings and prevent rubbing. The initial ‘T:’ is used in Pratt’s titles to denote both Temple and Tomb. The album pages have been numbered for clarity by Patricia Usick with the permission of Sarah Pratt (in 2012). Page numbers followed by ‘a’ or ‘b’ refer to items which have been ‘tipped in’ to the album; i.e. attached between pages. The following album pages are blank so are omitted from the album catalogue: 4, 21, 26, 36, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 56, 76, 84, 96, 98, 100, 102, 105, 116, and 126. Pratt’s own handwritten titles are reproduced in quotation marks. The Arabic numerals used here to identify plates from Vivant Denon’s Voyage are from the reproduction of the plate volume (Denon 1990) with the Roman numerals of the original planche following. All measurements are given in centimetres, height × width (unless otherwise stated).

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Cover: Marbled board with leather corners and spine marked in ink ‘Egypt 1834’. Front cover marked in ink ‘SKETCHES IN EGYPT 1834 by E.R. Pratt Jnr’: height 41.5cm, width 57cm, thickness 3cm. Both covers found loose.

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Inside front cover: Edward Roger Pratt’s personal invitation to the New Year’s Day ball in Alexandria ‘given by the gentlemen of the town’ (see Journal, 1 January 1834) and to be held at 8 o’clock ‘à l’okelle Neuve… au nom des sociétaires, Les Commissaires, Lesseps-Boyer’. Ferdinand Lesseps (1805–94), who later developed the Suez Canal, was then French Vice-Consul at Alexandria. The consulate was situated on the northern side of the Great Square. ‘Okelle’ was a term used in Alexandria for the foreign residents’ compound.

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Album page 1. Two ink manuscript documents in Arabic. Left: a firman; a permission from the Khedival Diwan for unobstructed safe passage: 30.8 × 19.5. Pratt is named on the numbered document and identified as English, his reason for travel is given as tourism and he is to travel as far as Esna and Wadi Halfa: this information has been obtained from the English Consulate. Pratt’s passports for Italy and Greece in 1833 show that he was travelling with ‘un cameriere’, his servant Edward Eaves.1 Right: the contract for the hire of his boat: 23 × 16.7. Under the date and the name of the owner, Hagag Yussef at Asyut, the contract states that the boat will be fully equipped and with an eight-person crew plus the Rais, who will be in charge. The conditions of the contract are that the crew will be courageous and travel both by day and night, no matter the weather conditions, the heat or cold, and the boat will ‘rest’ in Upper Egypt in Wadi Halfa. The contract is witnessed three times: once for Pratt, once for the owner, and once by the writer of the contract.2 The verso has notes by Pratt noting the number of days of his travels in January, February and March 1834 and amounts that he has paid.

1

NRO, Passports of E. R. Pratt 1816 & 1833, PRA 672-674.

2

With thanks to Heba Shama for the translation.

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Album page 2. Top right: pencil sketches of an obelisk, ‘Alexandria 1834’, with cartouches numbered to show their position on the obelisk; cartouches marked ‘Constantinople’; plan of a pillared hall, marked ‘Constantinople’: 16.7 × 10.8. Bottom left and middle: two pencil sketches of camels: a standing camel with a (?Nubian) man: 11.7 × 19.4; a seated, saddled camel: 12 × 19.5. Three sepia-wash views of Alexandria: Pompey’s Pillar, top middle: ‘La Colonne de Pompée 1834’: 10.5 × 20.8; middle: obelisk, ‘Obélisque de Cléopatre 1834’: 11 × 21; top left: entrance to a mosque: 25 × 21. Two separate portrait prints engraved by Couché fils who specialized in Napoleonic portraiture: middle right: Napoleon Bonaparte: 8.1 × 7.8; bottom right: General Jean-Baptiste Kléber, from a portrait by Guérin: 8.1 × 7.8.

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Album page 2a. Tipped in: Coloured sketch or print of a dahabiya houseboat (perhaps Pratt’s ‘cangé’) moored at the Nile bank, with Nubians on boat and shore. Signed ‘R. E.’ and titled ‘Nubia’: 28 × 38.

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Album page 3. Top: two prints of ‘Tombs of the Memlook Kings of Egypt’ printed by John Murray, drawn by J. G. Wilkinson: 23 × 15. Bottom left: printed map/plan by A. M. Perrot of the ‘Bataille d’Aboukir’: 10 × 14. Bottom right: faint pencil sketch showing Qaitbay fort, Alexandria, on the horizon: 10.9 × 18.8.

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Album page 5. Top left: watercolour landscape with domed Ottoman tombs in the Nile Valley: 16 × 26.5. Top right: ink and wash sketch of a domed tomb: 10.8 × 19. Below: print (Denon 1990, the upper half of pl. 98, planche XCVIII), Egyptian seals and amulets: 19 × 25.7.

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Album page 6. Ink sketch of a plan and architectural details of a mosque ‘pres du Caire 1834’: 14.5 × 22.5.

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Album page 6a. Tipped in: Ink and wash drawing of a waterwheel, annotated [?‘Melad’] and ‘Mad: Maracine. Rue des Roses’: 11 × 14.5.

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Album page 7. Sepia-wash and watercolour panorama of ‘Cairo 1834’, looking down from the Gebel Mokattam across to the Citadel and mosques of Cairo, the distant city, and the Giza pyramids on the horizon (see Journal, 18 January 1834): 22.5 × 52.

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Album page 8. Top: ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze of a kneeling goddess: 18.5 × 37.8. Below: one sheet with four watercolour studies of a dahabiya under sail: 19.2 × 25.2.

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Album page 8a. Tipped in: A plate (from Dalton 1790–91) showing the entrance to the Great Pyramid: 29.5 × 33.5.

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Album page 9. Left: two ink and pink-wash tracings of kneeling musicians playing the pipe or flute before singers, from the tomb of Niankhkhnum and Khnumhotep at Saqqara, Dynasty 5: 19.5 × 18.5 and 19.5 × 18. As illustrated in Wilkinson 1878, vol. I, 437, nos 6 and 8, ‘from an ancient tomb near the pyramids’. (Identified in Manniche 1991, 24–25.) Right: watercolour showing an Egyptian seated at the entrance to the Great Pyramid: 22.5 × 27.7.

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Album page 10. Print ‘Portrait de Sésostris [Rameses II], colosse renversé de Memphis’; (see Journal, 24 January 1834): 18.5 × 10.2.

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Album page 11. Top right: sepia ink and wash drawing of the statue of Rameses II, ‘1834 Sesostris Memphis’, lying in an open pit, a palm plantation beyond: 21.5 × 27.4. Top left: pencil drawing of the head of the colossal Rameses II statue lying overturned at Memphis, titled ‘Portrait de Sésostris [Rameses II], colosse renversé de Memphis 1834’: 22.8 × 13.2. Bottom left: print showing two illustrations of Egyptian costume (Denon 1990, nos 4 and 5, pl. 101, planche CI): 11.6 × 17.5. Bottom right: sepia ink and pink-wash panorama of Saqqara, ‘Sakkarah 1834’, showing a distant view of the step pyramid and four other pyramids (all numbered) on the horizon: 8 × 28.2.

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Album page 12. Top: watercolour riverscape with dahabiya at ‘Gebel el Teir – Deir el Adra’: 14.5 × 27.7. Below: similar riverscape with dahabiya but in sepia-wash and from a slightly different area of the river at ‘Gebel el Teir’: 13 × 27.7.

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Album page 13. Top left: ink and wash detail of classical architecture frieze at ‘Souadi-1834 - Hypogée grec d’ordre dorique’ [Sawada]: 15.2 × 16. Top right: sepia and pink-wash drawing of the corner of a building in brick and stone in which the same frieze is shown, ‘Saouadeh 1834’: 22.5 × 27. (See Journal, 29 January 1834: ‘it is [in] the village and used as a greek church’.) Probably the Church of Saint Apa Hor at el-Minya, Sawada. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, no. 3, pl. 86, planche LXXXVI), landscape with a monastery on the cliff, ‘Le Couvent de la Chaine’; chained baskets are lowered to the river: 14.6 × 26.6. Bottom right: another print (Denon 1990, no. 2, pl. 86, planche LXXXV, but this version engraved ‘CI’), showing the same scene from a different angle: 8 × 24.

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Album page 14. Left: ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze, a man holds a bundle of papyrus, ‘El Maïetin. 1834’; from the Old Kingdom tomb of Khunes at Zawyet el-Maiyitin, north of Beni Hasan: 35.8 × 22.5. (See Varille 1938, 12.) Right: ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze, a man harvests a field, ‘El Maïetin. 1834’; from a bas-relief scene in the Old Kingdom tomb of Khunes (PM IV, 134) at Zawyet el-Maiyitin: 31.7 × 20.5. This image corresponds to the scene shown in the Description de l’Égypte, Ant. IV, pl. 68.

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Album page 14a. Tipped in: Ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze, a standing female figure, ‘El Maïetin. 1834’; probably also from an Old Kingdom tomb at Zawyet el-Maiyitin: 66 × 23.

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Album page 15. Sepia and pink-wash view of a row of rock-cut tombs at ‘Zaouyet-el-Maïetin 1834’ with a small plan of a tomb at bottom left, verso: ‘Beni Hasan T[omb] de Nehothph T.II’: 22.8 × 33. ‘Nehothph II’ is the name that Pratt uses for the Dynasty 12 tomb of Khnumhotep at Beni Hasan. However, the plan of the tomb shown corresponds to that of Nefersekheru at Kom el-Ahmar, Zawyet el-Maiyitin. (See Varille 1938, 41, fig. 12; PM IV, 132.)

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Album page 16. Sepia ink and wash drawing of the entrance to a rock-cut tomb, ‘I: Tombeau 1834 – Beni Hassan’; the tomb of Amenemhat, Beni Hasan, Dynasty 12: 22.5 × 27.5.

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Album page 17. Ink and wash drawing of the pillared interior of the tomb of Amenemhat, Beni Hasan, Dynasty 12, ‘I Tombeau a Beni Hassan 1834’: 24.7 × 39.5. Two men in Turkish dress, perhaps Dupuy and Hay, are recording the reliefs, one up a ladder tracing or taking a squeeze, the other seated, drawing. Hay arrived in Beni Hasan with Dupuy on 21 December 1833, then left him there to make coloured copies of his own early copies (Tillett 1984, 59). Hay was evidently still there on 31 January when Pratt ‘walked with [him] to a temple in a valley near’.

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Album page 18. Ink wash and line tracing, kneeling female harpist, ‘I T: Beni Hassen Janvier 30. 1834’; the tomb of Amenemhat, Beni Hasan, Dynasty 12: 42 × 26.4. (See Manniche 1991, 35, fig. 18.) [Image rotated.]

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Album page 19. Left: print (Denon 1990, pl. 97, planche XCVII), showing numbered scarab-seals: 23.6 × 24.3. Top right: print titled ‘Colonnes Proto-Doriques Égyptiennes’, annotated by Pratt, faintly in pencil, ‘T de Nehothph’; the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan: 17.5 × 10.8. Bottom right: ink and wash drawing of an Egyptian drawing water with a shaduf: 15 × 17.5.

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Album page 20. Large coloured tracing of the upper part of a seated woman sniffing a lotus flower, ‘T de Nehothph 1834’ and ‘Dame T de Nehothph 1834’ and ‘Beni Hassan 1834. T de Nehothph. IId T:’, the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan: 51.5 × 42. It includes additional studies of profiles and a hand, with some colours indicated by initials, e.g. w[hite], y[ellow].

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Album page 22. Tracing with red and black wash, a standing Asiatic man with quiver, stave and axe, ‘Homme que C=[hampollion] suppose d’être Grec 1834’, from the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan: 49.5 × 26.2.

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Album page 23. Left: coloured tracing, two Asiatic women with patterned dresses, ‘les figures dont parle Champollion. T. Nehothph’, and ‘II T: de Nehothph. Beni Hassan. 1834’; the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan, with additional studies of a profile and a pattern, and additional colours indicated, one ‘light flesh colour’: 31.5 × 26.2. Right: a line-drawn tracing of a male profile with close cap, faintly in pencil and again in ink: ‘15 Prisonniers presentés a Nehothph, ces captifs étaient blanc comparativement aux Egyptiens. Janvier 31 1834’ and ‘Beni Hassan. 1834. Nehothph. T: IIo’; the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan: 39 × 23.2. The words ‘étaient blanc comparativement aux Egyptiens’ are a direct quotation from Champollion’s description in his letter to Champollion-Figeac of 5 November 1828 (Champollion c.1986, 133).

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Album page 24. Coloured tracing, standing female figure, ‘[?Id] Servante d’une Dame. 1834. T: de Nehothph’, ‘Beni Hassan IId T: de Nehothph 1834’; the tomb of Khnumhotep, Beni Hasan: 71 × 26, folded.

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Album page 25. Top: ink and wash drawing of the interior of a tomb with columns, wall decoration, and a shaft, ‘IV. T: Beni Hassan’; the tomb of Kheti, Beni Hasan, Dynasty 11: 22.7 × 28.5. Below: a small coloured tracing of a hieroglyph for the royal title ‘Son of Ra’, probably from one of the painted tombs at Beni Hasan: 7.5 × 11.5.

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Album page 27. Top: ink and wash drawing of the entrance to a rock-cut tomb ‘near Beni Hassan 1834’; the Speos Artemidos: 17.5 × 37.5. Below: a pencil drawing of three relief scenes showing the king with a god, ‘T: Beni Hassan. 1834’; from the Speos Artemidos: 20 × 38.8. The drawings may possibly be by Dupuy (see Journal, 1 February 1834).

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Album page 28. Line-drawing over a squeeze, a kneeling man tending cattle, ‘Tel el Amana 1834’; the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I, Tell el-Amarna, Pillared Hall East Side: 20.8 × 38.5. (See Davies 1903, pl. XXIX, Outside the Gates.)

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Album page 28a. Tipped in: Line-drawing over a squeeze, a groom holding the reins of a pair of horses with chariot and rider, ‘Tel el Amana 1834’; the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I, Tell el-Amarna, Pillared Hall East Side: 65.5 × 39, folded. (See Davies 1903, pl. XXV.)

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Album page 28b. Tipped in: Line-drawing over a squeeze, the head of a harnessed horse, ‘Tel el Amana 1834’; the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I, Tell el-Amarna: 23.5 × 22. This appears to be the head of one of the other horses shown in the centre of the plate depicting the Pillared Hall East Side. (See Davies 1903, pl. XXVI.)

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Album page 29. Left: line-drawing over a squeeze, three marching kilted soldiers carrying spears and shields, ‘Tel el Amana 1834’; the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I, Tell el-Amarna, Pillared Hall East Side: 28 × 22.5. (See Davies 1903, pl. XXIX, Outside the Gates.) Right: ink and wash drawing of the Pillared Hall of the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I showing the two remaining columns, ‘Tel el Amana 1834’; the tomb of Meryre [Merira] I, Tell el-Amarna, Pillared Hall: 22.5 × 28. (See Davies 1903, pl. III.)

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Album page 30. A small square is cut out of the page to show the verso of the squeeze of marching soldiers on page 29.

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Album page 31. Top: two watercolour views of the Nile and cliffs at ‘Gebel Aboufodde’: Gebel Abu Foda, near Deir el-Quesir village, which has limestone quarries: 15.4 × 23.6 and 15.4 × 28.3. Below: watercolour landscape of the Nile valley with minarets in the distance and desert tombs cut into the cliffs beyond. ‘Siout [Asyut] 1834’: 10.8 × 21.3.

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Album page 32. Top: watercolour drawing of the façade of the rock-cut tomb of the Dynasty 12 nome official Djefaiha’py II, Asyut: 19.8 × 27.8. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, no. 3, pl. 33, planche XXXIII), showing the façade of the rock-cut tomb of the Dynasty 12 nome official Djefaiha’py I, title of the print cut out and stuck in separately: ‘2. Tombeau Egyptien à Lycopolis [Asyut]’: 9.8. × 24.2. Bottom right: watercolour drawing of the façade of the same tomb [Djefaiha’py I] as shown in the print from Denon above: 16.4 × 26.5.

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Album page 33. Left: a half page, cut to show the verso of the squeeze on page 34.

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Album page 34. Right: a half page. Pencil over a squeeze, a profile from a relief, ‘T: El Arabah. 1834’ [el-Araba el-Madfuna, Abydos]: 28.1 × 22.2.

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Album page 35. Left: a half page with a watercolour drawing showing a standing obelisk at Karnak Temple: 31.5 × 24.6.

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Album page 37. Left: watercolour view looking through the Ramesseum towards the fallen bust of Rameses II, two figures seated against a column in the foreground: 26 × 18.5. Top right: an ink and wash view of ‘El Arabah. 1834’ [Abydos] showing the hieroglyph-inscribed triple-entrance to the Temple of Sety I, half-buried in sand. Behind the temple rises a large arched building, also half-buried: 17.2 × 28.5. Pratt has copied a fragment of hieroglyphic inscription and decoration and also the cartouche of Sety I. Bottom right: a sepia and pink-wash landscape showing the half-buried inscribed lintel of a gateway at ‘El Arabah Madfouné 1834’ [Abydos]: 22.2 × 28.1. On the drawing is a copy of the cartouche of Rameses II.

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Album page 39. Left: watercolour drawing of what appears to be a Little Green Bee-eater, Merops orientalis cleopatra, blue below the eye, green plumage and black-tipped light-brown wings (Meinertzhagen 1930, vol. I, 328, pl. XIV): 21.2 × 24. Actual feathers are inserted into the drawing as examples. Right: watercolour drawing of what appears to be a White-crowned Black Wheatear, Oenanthe leucopyga leucopyga (Meinertzhagen 1930, vol. I, 278), a grey and white plumaged bird, with actual feathers inserted around the drawing: 20.2 × 25.

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Album page 41. Watercolour drawing of what appears to be a female Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Pterocles exustus, with small beak, black and gold striped plumage giving a speckled effect and red and brown plumage on its under-body (Mackworth-Praed and Grant 1960, series I, vol. I, 449, pl. 28). Actual feathers inserted into the paper, ‘Manfalout 1834’ [Manfalut, Asyut]: 23.5 × 39.5.

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Album page 42. Ink and wash landscape showing the Roman Gateway among trees, east of the main enclosure at Dendera, a palm tree in the foreground, ‘Doum Palm’: 25.4 × 39.3.

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Album page 43. Top: an ink and wash drawing of the back and side of the half-buried temple at ‘Dendera. Tentyris’: 21.5 × 38. Below: a small ink and wash sketch of two seated Egyptians: 12.1 × 15.2.

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Album page 45. Top: print (Denon 1990, the lower half of pl. 38, nos 4 and 5, planche XXXVIII), showing two panoramic views of the temple at Dendera: 20.5 × 30.7. Below: another print ‘Ten[tyris = Dendera]’ (Denon 1990, no. 8, pl. 129, planche CXXIX), ‘Tableaux Hieroglyphiques’ showing a ceiling relief of the passage of the sun through the body of the goddess Nut: 17.6 × 28.

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Album page 46. Left: line-drawing over a squeeze showing a kneeling figure with an ankh hanging from his elbow. Above is a sun-disc with cobra uraei, ankhs hanging from their necks, ‘Denderah 1834’ [Dendera]: 32.2 × 32. Right: print of three scenes from Dendera (Denon 1990, nos 1, 2 and 3, pl. 120, planche CXX): 36 × 9.

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Album page 47. Top: ink and wash view of the hypostyle hall interior of ‘Denderah 1834’ [Dendera]: 22.5 × 27. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, no. 6, pl. 120, planche CXX) marked ‘Pl. LXII’, ‘Ten[tyris = Dendera]’, a scene showing the sacrifice of an antelope: 12 × 9. Bottom right: print (Denon 1990, nos 4, 5, 6, and 7, part of the upper section of pl. 129, planche CXXIX) ‘Ten[tyris = Dendera]’ showing three reliefs of astrological scenes from Dendera Temple, one from Phi[lae]: 12.8 × 28.

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Album page 49. Left: two prints (cut from the lower half of Denon 1990, pl. 126, planche CXXVI, ‘Tableaux Hieroglyphiques’, nos 9, 10, and 11, 12), scenes of figures lying on beds, from ‘Ten[tyris = Dendera]’: both 13.4 × 16.5. Right: line-drawing over a squeeze showing a figure kneeling in adoration, ‘Denderah 1834’ [Dendera]: Irregular sheet approximately 36 × 36.5.

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Album page 50. Watercolour view of the Ptolemaic Gateway at the Precinct of Montu, Karnak, and the sphinx avenue, with figures around the ruins: 17 × 26.5.

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Album page 51. Top right: ink and wash panoramic view of the colossi of Memnon; in the distance, a ruined temple. Deir el-Bahari? A single figure with a touch of blue for the clothing is shown against a colossus for scale: 18.5 × 39. Top left: tracing of an engraving from a drawing by Joseph Bonomi (in Burton 1825–28) showing the frontal view of a sphinx statue of Amenhotep III: 20 × 5 × 8.7. The statue was installed in Saint Petersburg in 1834. (See Solkin 2004, vol. II, 1713.) Below: ink and wash panoramic view of the façade of a tomb at ‘Gourna T:VI. 1834’; tomb TT 131 of Amenuser in the Valley of Nobles. Figures, with touches of blue for the clothing, show the scale. In the foreground are cylindershaped mud-brick structures: 16.3 × 36.2.

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Album page 53. Tracing, with watercolour, of a relief from ‘Gourna T: VII. 1834’, the tomb of Rekhmira, showing the construction of a seated colossal statue by three workmen on scaffolding: 50.8 × 35.5. [Image rotated.]

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Album page 55. Tracing, with watercolour, of a relief from ‘Gourna T: VII. 1834’, the tomb of Rekhmira, showing the construction of a striding colossal statue by five workmen on scaffolding: 52.4 × 38.4. [Image rotated.]

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Album page 57. Top left: print of a relief showing a man with an antelope over his shoulders, leading dogs, from a ‘Tomb at Thebes / C.H. LITH.’; perhaps drawn by Charles Humphreys and connected with Burton 1825–28: 14.8 × 13.4. Right: watercolour sketch of the transverse hall of an unidentified Theban tomb chapel with a line of five fluted columns and an Egyptian standing figure: 26 × 27. Bottom left: tracing of two hieroglyphs: an owl (in detail) and the forepart of a lion: 21 × 15.

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Album page 58. Tracing, with watercolour, of a relief showing three men sculpting a sphinx, from ‘T:VII Gourna. 1834’, the tomb of Rekhmira: 26.3 × 41.7.

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Album page 59. Tracing of two male musicians playing a type of lute and a low harp, from ‘Gourna V:T: [… paper cut off] 1834’: 35.6 × 42.6. (Tomb V is shown on Pratt’s plan, unidentified, but probably not later than Amenhotep III since it shows musicians.)

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Album page 60. Top left: tracing (line-drawing with colours indicated) of two different-style vases (from the tomb of Rekhmira?): 20.1 × 26.4. Top right: ink and wash over a squeeze showing a kneeling harpist, ‘Gourna. 1834. T:III.’; the tomb of Ibi, no. 36, and faintly in pencil ‘Gourna 3 French’: 24.8 × 17.7. Bottom left: tracing (line-drawing) of a vase ‘Gourna. 1834. T. VII’: the tomb of Rekhmira: 16.3 × 13.2. Bottom middle: tracing of a vase carried by a man (from the tomb of Rekhmira?): 12.5 × 15. Two prints showing various styles of vases from Egyptian bas-reliefs (cut out from the lower half of Denon 1990, pl. 115, planche CXV). Neither has the same arrangement of vases as appears in the original planches. Top middle: vases nos 1, 10, 19, and 28: 16.5 × 3.3; Bottom right: vases nos 20–26, 29–35 and 37–39, print engraved ‘Vases Egyptiens’: 19 × 12.7.

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Album page 61. Top left: a print of vases (Denon 1990, nos 9, 18, 27, and 36, pl. 115, planche CXV); this print engraved ‘Pl. LIV’): 17 × 3.1. Top right: line-drawing over a squeeze showing a lady sniffing a lotus flower, ‘T: Gourna 1834. T: IX’ (shown on Pratt’s plan, not identified, but possibly TT 33, the tomb of Pedamenope [Padiamenopet], a Dynasty 26 tomb): 22.3 × 40. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, nos 1–8 and 11–17, pl. 115, planche CXV), ‘Vases Hieroglyphiques’, showing vases in different styles: 6.6 × 18.7. Bottom right: print (Denon 1990, from lower half of pl. 99, planche XCIX) showing ‘Momies d’Ibis’: 12.5 × 26.1.

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Album page 62. Left: line-drawing over a squeeze, a profile of a king with uraeus, ‘Gourna 1834. Temple’, and faintly in pencil ‘T. Gourna’: 24.5 × 22.6. Middle: the page is cut out to show a part of the squeeze on page 61.

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Album page 62a. Tipped in: Right: an ink and pencil line-drawing over a squeeze, profile of a king with uraeus, includes a smaller drawing of the whole head with wig and composite crown, and in pencil ‘The King at the Entrance’. ‘T: XV. 1834’ (probably KV 15, the tomb of Sety II): 36 × 22.

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Album page 63. Top right: pencil line-drawing over a squeeze of hands holding out ointment jars. In pencil ‘Bab el Molouk T:3’ [Valley of the Kings, probably KV 3, of a son of Rameses III]: 19.2 × 33. Bottom right: print (Denon 1990, lower half of pl. 97, planche XCVII), ‘Antiquités Egyptiennes’ A–F, showing various scenes, plans and objects: 24.7 × 15.5.

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Album page 64. Cut-out drawing on brown paper of an Egyptian throne with cartouches of Rameses III, partially coloured in red and blue with other colours indicated. The verso shows the annotation ‘T: XI’ [KV 11]: 57 × 29, paper folded.

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Album page 65. Left: large print (Denon 1990, pl. 119, planche CXIX) of elaborate staffs, nome standards, etc., ‘Enseignes militaires, Bâton Augurale, et autres Emblêmes’ from ‘Tentyris’ [Dendera]: 31.9 × 25.7. Right: part of the album page has been cut out to show the verso of the squeeze of the king’s profile on page 66 as it shows more of the fine detail and some colour from the surface of the relief.

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Album page 66. Left: line-drawing over a squeeze of a king’s profile, ‘Gourna. 1834. El Assasif. T: II’, and in pencil, ‘Gourna II’: 17.7 × 22.3. On Pratt’s plan, Temple II is Deir el-Bahari. Right: line-drawing over a squeeze of two cartouches, ‘Thothmes.2-’ and ‘Gour[nou] El As[assif]’ probably also from Deir el-Bahari: 24.7 × 23.

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Album page 67. Top: sepia and pink-wash drawing of a false door with cavetto cornice and reliefs below an arch of large stone slabs set into the hillside, ‘Gourna T: Io El Assasif’: 20.7 × 37.2. Pratt’s map shows T:I to be a chapel next to Deir el-Bahari. This drawing shows the Hatshepsut false door from the rear of her mortuary chapel at Deir el-Bahari. (See Winlock 1929, 56–68 and pl. XII.) Below: sepia-wash landscape of a temple, ‘Thebes 1834’, the Temple of Sety I: 14.1 × 26.8.

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Album page 68. Left: watercolour drawing of the interior columns of the Ramesseum, ‘Gourna 1834’: 22.2 × 25.8. Right: pencil sketch of the columns of the Ramesseum showing the fallen bust in the background: 33 × 23.6.

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Album page 69. Left: a half page. Watercolour view of the Ramesseum with the fallen colossal statue in the foreground, surrounded by figures: 22.1 × 20.8.

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Album page 70. Right: a half page. Tracing of a king’s profile, ‘T: XI. The King in the 1st Chamber. 1834’ [KV 11], the tomb of Rameses III: 35.6 × 22.5.

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Album page 71. Coloured print from a drawing by W. Alexander, of ‘The sarcophagus in which the embalmed body of Alexander the Great was deposited…’: 13.2 × 25.9. (The sarcophagus is now British Museum EA 10.) It appears that a watercolour has been removed from this page; the ink-line frame remains.

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Album page 72. Left: ink tracing of a profile with false beard, ‘T: Belzoni. XVII outline 183[4]’ [KV 17]: 24 × 32.6. Right: sepia-wash landscape with the half-buried entrance to a tomb, probably that of Sety I, in the cliffs of the Valley of the Kings: 16.6 × 17.7.

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Album page 72a. Tipped in: A sepia-wash panoramic view of tomb entrances in the Valley of the Kings below the cliffs and peak at Qurna, ‘Thebes 1834’: 23.7 × 38.7.

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Album page 73. Left: ink line-drawing over a squeeze, profile of a lady, ‘T: XIV’; probably KV 14, the tomb of Tawosret and Sethnakhte: 24.6 × 20. Right: pencil tracing with touches of wash of a ram-headed god beneath the arched body of a snake, part of the Book of the Dead decoration of KV 17, ‘Belzoni. Outline. 1834. T: XVII’: 39.8 × 25.4.

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Album page 74. Left: pencil tracing with added colour-wash and other colours indicated, of the upper part of a hawk-headed god, ‘T: XVII’ [KV 17]: 23.6 × 27.7. Below: watercolour sketch of the interior of the tomb KV 2 of Rameses IV, roughly indicating the colours and decoration of the walls and ceiling, looking towards the sarcophagus: 15.7 × 10.3. Top right: part of the page is cut out to show the verso of the squeeze on page 73; it shows more detail and some colour from the relief.

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Album page 75. Left: a half page. Pencil and ink tracing of the profile heads of a male and a female figure, colours indicated, ‘Biban el Molouk 1834.’ and in pencil ‘T. of a Kg Thebes 1834’: 39.4 × 25.

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Album page 77. Below: a half page. Three fine free-hand drawings, one marked ‘LUXOR’, showing adjacent relief scenes from the Divine Birth of Amenhotep II at Luxor. Gods with the queen: 13.1 × 14; three registers showing gods and figures in adoration: 18.7 × 13.1; the royal child is presented and the royal child is held by a seated god: 13.1 × 18.

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Album page 78. Bottom: a half page. Watercolour view of a courtyard at Medinet Habu Temple: 16.8 × 24.2.

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Album page 79. Left: a half page. Watercolour view of the interior of the columned courtyard at ‘Médinet Habou. 1834.’ [Medinet Habu], showing the decoration of a column, walls, and ceiling in detail: 28 × 21.5.

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Album page 80. Right: a half page. Ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze of a royal profile, ‘Medinet H[abu] 1834’: 36.1 × 21.5.

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Album page 80a. Tipped in: Ink line-drawing over a squeeze of the winged vulture holding the ankh motif, ‘Medinet Habou. 1834’ [Medinet Habu]: 31.4 × 46.8.

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Album page 81. Left: pencil drawing, the king kneels on top of the stand at which Horus and Thoth tie the heraldic plants of Upper and Lower Egypt: 16.4 × 15.8. Right: sepia and pink-wash drawing looking out from the interior of the Temple of ‘Thothmes 3d Tuthmosis’ at ‘Medinet [Habu] 1834’: 22.2 × 37. Some of the reliefs, hieroglyphic inscriptions and the cartouches of Thutmose III are shown in detail. Perhaps the sanctuary of the small temple of Hatshepsut and Thutmose III at Medinet Habu showing one of the Dynasty 29 faceted columns of Akoris in the ambulatory of the bark shrine.

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Album page 82. Left: a sepia-wash view of a part-buried faceted column at ‘Karnac 1834’; from the Dynasty 18 section of the Temple of Karnak: 16 × 22.3. A watercolour appears to have been removed from this page. Right: ink and wash line-drawing over squeeze of an ibis-headed god (?Thoth) at ‘Karn[ak]’: 22.2 × 22.1.

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Album page 83. Left: a half page. Watercolour view down through the hypostyle hall at ‘Karnac 1834’ [Karnak] showing the remaining clerestory window: 28 × 17.9.

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Album page 85. Top: sepia and pink-wash view of ‘1834 Karnac’ showing the remains of the first pylon from a viewpoint in the first courtyard. To the right is the remaining standing column of the Kiosk of Taharqo, and there are fallen columns in the foreground: 22 × 39.3. Below: a print (from Burton 1825–28) drawn by C[harles H[umphreys] and lithographed and printed at Qahirah [Cairo] 1828, showing a relief of Rameses II smiting an Asiatic in battle from his chariot [Karnak]: 13.5 × 18.1.

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Album page 86. Top left: sepia and pink-wash view of the entrance pylon to Luxor Temple, with half-buried colossal statues and the single remaining obelisk: 16.5 × 22. The hole left by the removal of its pair can still be seen and Pratt remarks (see Journal, 18 February 1834) that he had heard at Cairo of its recent removal by the French. Top right: print showing the finely detailed ‘Interior of the Portico of Ésné’, drawn ‘on the spot’ by J. G. Wilkinson and printed by L. Haghe: 15.3 × 24.2. Below: sepia and pink-wash panoramic view of the Temple of ‘Luxor’ as seen from the river. At right, the French House. A boatload of Egyptians has reached the shore in front of the temple where other Egyptians are gathered: 20 × 39.6.

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Album page 87. Bottom: a sepia and pink-wash view of the remains of the Ptolemaic Temple of Armant, ‘Erment 1834’: 15.6 × 22.1. Top: part of the page is cut out to show the verso of the squeeze of the kneeling musician on page 88.

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Album page 88. Left: ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze of a standing female musician playing a full-size harp, ‘El Kab. 1834 T: Io’ and ‘T: Io’; from the banquet scene of the tomb of Paheri: 38 × 18.9. Right: ink line-drawing over a squeeze of a kneeling female musician playing a short curved harp, ‘El Kab 1834 T: IId’, from the tomb of Renni [Reneni]: 22.8 × 20. Vertical registers of hieroglyphic inscriptions are also recorded.

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Album page 89. Top: watercolour view of the entrance to the rock-cut tomb of Paheri showing the reliefs and inscriptions on the façade with an Ottoman guard standing nearby, ‘El Kab 1834. I . T:’: 16.5 × 22.2. Below: ink line-drawing and wash over a squeeze showing part of a fishing scene from the tomb of Paheri, with two men repairing or preparing a net, ‘El Kab 1834. T 1o’ and in pencil ‘I’: 20 × 39.5.

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Album page 90. A large watercolour over a squeeze of a relief showing wine production, men harvesting and treading grapes and pouring the liquid into jars; from the tomb of Paheri ‘El Kab 1834 T: Io’: 90 × 36, two pieces of paper joined.

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Album page 91. Ink and wash tracing of a relief showing a man ploughing with a pair of oxen, ‘El Kab 183[4] T: IIo’, from the tomb of Renni [Reneni]: 35.5 × 52.8.

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Album page 92. Top: watercolour, untitled, showing the façades of the Dynasty 18 royal shrines cut into the cliffs at Gebel Silsila (65km north of Aswan, between Kom Ombo and Edfu): 21.5 × 37.5. Below: a sepia-wash view of the façade of the Speos of Horemheb at Gebel Silsila, ‘Ghebel Selseleh [1834]’: 15.4 × 21.2.

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Album page 92a. Tipped in: A large print (Denon 1990, no. 2, pl. 57, planche LVII), this Bagster version engraved as ‘Pl. XXXIV’, of the ‘Intérieur du Temple d’Apollinopolis à Edfou’: 30.3 × 49.5.

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Album page 92b. Attached to the verso of the print on page 92a, a small print showing the tombs at Gebel Silsila, ‘1. Tombeaux antiques dans les carrieres de la Haute Egypte’ (Denon 1990, no. 2, pl. 55, planche LV), this version engraved ‘Pl. XII’: 8.7 × 17. The caption for the print is a loose strip, cut out of the plate and now tucked beneath the print.

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Album page 93. Top: a watercolour showing the half-buried columns in the courtyard of Edfu Temple, ‘Edfou 1834’: 23.2 × 39.3. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, no. 2, pl. 75, planche LXXV), ‘Vue d’Ombos’: 12.5 × 24.5. Bottom right: ink and sepia-wash view of ‘Koum Ombos’ [Kom Ombo] from the river, ‘Ombos 1834’: 10.2 × 19.8.

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Album page 94. Top: a sepia-wash view, ‘Assouan 1834’, showing the inscribed rocks bordering the river at Aswan, with the ruins of a stone structure on one bank and a ruined structure on a stone platform (the remains of the temple at Elephantine?) on the other: 16.8 × 28. Below: sepia-wash landscape view of Aswan showing Pratt’s dahabiya with figures standing on the rocks at the cataract: 13 × 25.5.

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Album page 95. A part page. Left: print (Denon 1990, nos 7 and 8, pl. 120, planche CXX) showing two relief scenes: a king smiting a group of captives held by their hair and Thoth seated, from ‘Phi[lae]’: 23.2 × 9. Bottom right: a sepia-wash view of ‘Philae 1834’ [Philae Temple], seen from across the Cataract: 16.8 × 25.5.

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Album page 96a. Tipped in: Print (Denon 1990, pl. 70, planche LXX), ‘Plan des Temples de Philée’ [Philae]. This Bagster version engraved ‘Pl. XXXVIII’: 30.2 × 49.5.

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Album page 97. Left: a large watercolour of Philae Temple; a view showing the side of the pylon joined to a colonnade: 25.7 × 22.2. Right: a large watercolour view of the interior of Philae Temple showing the remaining colours on the column capitals and ceiling in detail, ‘Philae 1834’: 39.5 × 21. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, nos 1, 2, and 3, from the top of pl. 119, planche CXIX), showing a horizontal winged vulture motif from ‘Phi[lae]’: 4 × 26.4.

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Album page 99. Four sepia and pink-wash views: Top left: the Temple of Dabod, ‘Deboud 1834’, showing the first pylon gateway, with a small groundplan of the temple and its three gateways: 11.1 × 22.2. Top right: landscape view of the kiosk temple of Qertassi, ‘[1834] Kardassi’: 11.5 × 22.2. Bottom left: landscape view of the two (now lost) temples at Tafa, ‘Tafah 1834’, from across the river, with a small rough sketch groundplan of each: 14.1 × 22.3. Bottom right: riverscape at Tafa, ‘Tafah 1834’, showing Pratt’s dahabiya, colours flying, sailing along the river towards the North Temple: 14.2 × 24.8.

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Album page 101. Ink and wash over a squeeze of a relief at Beit el-Wali, ‘Betoualli 1834’, showing a prince and his driver in a chariot drawn by two horses: 60.5 × 92.5. Large folded asymmetrical sheet.

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Album page 102a. Tipped in: Ink and wash over a squeeze of a relief at Beit el-Wali, ‘Betoulli Kalabsche 1834’. A man wearing a leopard skin leads a giraffe in procession following the tail of a leopard: 76.5 × 55. Asymmetrical, with additional sheets attached.

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Album page 103. Top: ink with sepia and pink-wash drawing of the interior of the temple at Beit el-Wali, ‘Betouallé 1834’: 22.3 × 39. Bottom left: sepia ink and wash landscape of the boulder formations along the river at Aswan: 13.8 × 25.6. Bottom right: ink and pink wash drawing of the Temple of Dendur, ‘Dandour’: 14 × 22.2.

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Album page 104. Four small squeezes with ink and wash line-drawings. Probably all from Dakka, as one of them is titled ‘Dakkeh’: Top left: vertical hieroglyphic inscription: royal title: Son of Ra: 15 × 10.5. Bottom left: vertical hieroglyphic inscription: royal title: King of Upper and Lower Egypt, Lord of the Two Lands: 15 × 10.5. Right: vertical hieroglyphic inscription: 28.5 × 13.7. Middle: relief profile with composite crown, Dakka, ‘Dakkeh 1834’: 33 × 16.3.

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Album page 106. Two ink and wash line-drawings over squeezes to illustrate different types of headdress shown in reliefs at Dakka, both marked ‘Dakkeh 1834’: Left: headband and composite headdress: 33 × 22.2. Right: profile with feathered headdress: 33 × 19.1.

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Album page 107. Sepia ink and pink-wash drawing of the view from the rock-cut temple out to the river and the remains of the colonnade flanked with colossal statues at ‘Girsche 1834’ [Gerf Hussein]: 21.6 × 39.5.

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Album page 108. Ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze of a relief of (? a Nile-god) carrying an offering tray at Dakka, ‘Dakkeh 1834’: 42.5 × 29.6. [Image rotated.]

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Album page 109. A sepia and pink-wash view of the façade of Dakka Temple, ‘Dakkeh 1834’: 22.2 × 36.2.

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Album page 110. Two ink and wash line-drawings over squeezes from Dakka, both titled ‘Dakkeh 1834’: Left: the head and shoulders of a lion-headed goddess: 31.5 × 21. Right: a loaded offering-table held in the hands of (? a Nile-god): 32.7 × 21.7.

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Album page 111. Three ink and wash line-drawings over squeezes from Dakka, all titled ‘Dakkeh 1834’, to illustrate headdresses and crowns: Left: head and shoulders of a king with the double crown: 27.5 × 12.5. Middle: head and shoulders of a goddess with elaborate headdress: 38.5 × 21.5. Right: head and shoulders of a goddess with elaborate headdress: 26.3 × 12.8.

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Album page 112. Two ink and wash line-drawings over squeezes from Dakka, both titled ‘Dakkeh 1834’: Left: head and shoulders of a ram-headed god with crown: 27 × 20. Right: very elaborate crown incorporating a scarab: 32 × 24.5.

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Album page 113. Left: an ink and wash line-drawing over a squeeze from Dakka, titled ‘Dakkeh 1834’, a royal profile with an elaborate crown: 31.7 × 21.2. Top right: a sepia and pink-wash view of the Temple of Maharraqa, ‘Maharraka 1834’: 16.5 × 21.5. Bottom right: a watercolour view of the Temple of es-Sebua, ‘Esseboua 1834’: 11 × 22.3.

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Album page 114. Two ink and wash line-drawings over squeezes from Amada, showing hieroglyphs: Left: an ibis on a standard, ‘Amada 1834’: 20.5 × 19.2. Right: the cartouche of Thutmose IV, ‘Amada 1834’ and ‘Thothmes.4.’: 25 × 15.2.

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Album page 115. Top: a watercolour landscape view of the Temple of Amada, ‘Amada 1834’, seen in the distance from the opposite bank of the Nile: 10.5 × 21. Below: a sepia and pink-wash view of the Temple of Amada looking out from the interior and showing some of the relief decoration, with a small, rough groundplan bottom right, ‘Amada 1834’: 22.5 × 39.8.

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Album page 117. Top: a sepia and pink-wash view of the façade of the rock-cut Temple of Derr, ‘Derri 1834’: 13 × 22.4. Below: an ink and sepia wash view, looking out from the interior of the Temple of Derr, ‘Derri 1834’, with Egyptian figures to give the scale and showing some of the relief decoration on the pillars: 22.5 × 39.5.

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Album page 118. A large pencil and ink tracing of a relief with hieroglyphic inscriptions from TT 74, the tomb of Thanuny [Tjanuny] showing a lute player, an offering table and a man carrying a table of offerings: 37.3 × 51.5. The lute player (copied in Champollion 1834–45, pl. CLVII, no. 4) is now much damaged. (See Brack 1977, Tafel 23, b.)

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Album page 119. An ink and wash landscape view of the Dynasty 18 tombs cut into the cliffs at Qasr Ibrim, ‘Ibrim 1834’: 22.2 × 44.5. This drawing is covered by a fixed sheet of paper.

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Album page 120. Top: a sepia wash landscape view across the river to the Small Temple of Abu Simbel: 18.2 × 39.5. (The Great Temple is hidden from view by the cliff.) Below: an ink line-drawing over a squeeze of a cartouche of Rameses II from the Great Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 G:T:’: 17.7 × 32.2.

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Album page 120a. Tipped in: Ink line-drawing and wash over a squeeze of the relief showing overlapping profiles of prisoners from the Great Temple, Abu Simbel. In ink ‘Abousembal 1834. G: T:’, and in pencil ‘G.T. Prisoniers’: 29 × 26.7.

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Album page 120b. Tipped in: Ink line-drawing and wash over a squeeze of two cartouches of Rameses II from the Great Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 G: T: Remeses the great’. On the verso, some outlines are drawn over and the colours are indicated: 37.3 × 34.2.

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Album page 121. A watercolour view of the Great Temple at Abu Simbel, the great sand-drift obscuring all but the upper part, ‘Abousembal 1834’: 22.2 × 38.4.

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Album page 122. Left: print (from Burton 1825–28, no. IV, pl. LIII) showing a relief from Abu Simbel of the king smiting a captive, ‘Aboo Simbel’: 26 × 32.5. Right: ink drawing of one of the internal colossi from Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal’, showing the hieroglyphs and with some details, such as the belt and the flail, enlarged to show more of the detail: 17.8 × 15.

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Album page 123. An ink and wash watercolour view through the interior of the Great Temple at Abu Simbel ‘Abousembal 1834’ looking towards the sanctuary with an Egyptian figure standing in front of the barque stand. Some of the hieroglyphs are finely detailed: 22.1 × 37.5.

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Album page 124. Left: an ink line-drawing over a squeeze of a royal profile from the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 p[etit]: T:’: 27.5 × 33.9. Right: an ink line-drawing over a squeeze of the hieroglyph representing a bee, from Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 g[rand]: Temple 1834’: 22.5 × 29.6.

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Album page 125. A pencil drawing on tracing paper of a view of the interior of the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, looking out towards the entrance and river beyond. An Egyptian figure sits beside one of the Hathor pillars and a gun has been propped up against another. ‘Abousembal p[etit]: T: 1834’: 21.8 × 40.6. (While this might have been traced from another drawing, the date implies that it was drawn on the spot.)

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Album page 127. Left: pencil outlines over the verso of a squeeze of a royal profile from the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘p[etit]: T: Abousembal 1834’: 35.3 × 22. Right: small ink line-drawing of a throne with seated figure from the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 p[etit]: T:’: 10.6 × 14.

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Album page 128. A section of this album page has been cut out to reveal the recto of the squeeze of the royal profile pasted onto the other side (page 127). This side is a more finished ink line-drawing with coloured wash.

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Album page 129. Left: ink line-drawing over a squeeze of a relief of the head of a Nubian captive from the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 p[etit]: T:’ and in pencil ‘prisonier que le roi va tuer’ (prisoner whom the king is going to kill): 32.5 × 24. Right: ink line-drawing over a squeeze of a relief of the head of an Asiatic captive from the Small Temple at Abu Simbel, ‘Abousembal 1834 p[etit]: T:’ and in pencil ‘p[etit] T Prisonier’: 27.3 × 20.5.

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Album page 130. Watercolour of the four-columned interior of the rock-cut Temple of Abahuda of King Horemheb at Gebel Adda, ‘Ghebel Addeh 1834’, looking out towards an Egyptian figure standing at the entrance with its view to the river beyond: 22.3 × 39.7.

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Album page 131. Top left: a botanical watercolour showing the fruit, buds, and flowers of the plant commonly known as Crown Flower or Giant Milkweed, ‘Osshi Calotropsis gigantea – the apple contains the seed of a fine glossy silk 1834’: 25.2 × 20.2. Top right: a watercolour landscape showing the entrance in the cliff to the rock-cut Temple of Abahuda of King Horemheb at Gebel Adda, ‘1834 Ghebel Addeh’: 17.7 × 25.5. Bottom left: print (Denon 1990, nos 1 and 2, pl. 129, planche CXXIX) of ‘Her [Hermonthis, Armant]’ showing two scenes: Taweret at the birth of a divine child from a lotus, and an astrological ceiling: 6.5 × 21. Bottom right: a botanical watercolour, probably one of the Convolvulaceae: Ipomoea hederacea (Boulos 2000, 261): 11.5 × 22.5.

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Album page 132. Two black ink tracings, formerly attached to the page but now loose: Left: the standing figure of an elaborately dressed woman holding bouquets: 37.8 × 24, paper folded. Right; the standing figure of a king or god with a star on his head: 36.5 × 22. Verso: ‘Belzoni’ in pencil is probably a reference to ‘Belzoni’s Tomb’, KV 17, and not to a drawing by Belzoni.

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Album page 133. Top left: print drawn by ‘C H 1829’ (?Charles Humphreys), showing a Nubian leading in a lion: 13.2 × 10.2. Top right: a sepia-wash landscape view showing shrines cut into the face of the cliff at Gebel el-Shams, ‘1834 Ghebel Essoms’: 22.3 × 28.1. These are the rock shrines of Paser I, Viceroy of Kush, Hor and Katha (only two niches are shown). Bottom left: ink tracing of a male profile: 13.1 × 11.6. Bottom right: an unidentified watercolour landscape showing rock formations in the desert along the Nile: 9.9 × 22. Middle: print (from Denon 1990, nos 4 and 5, pl. 120, planche CXX), showing two scenes: Taweret from Hermonthis [Armant] and the divine birth of Pharaoh from Elephantine: 37.3 × 8.

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Album page 134. A watercolour landscape of the Second Cataract at Wadi Halfa: ‘IId Cataract of the Nile 1831. W P. Wadee Halfeh – 960 m from the Mediterranean to the IId Cataract’: 17.7 × 26.8. This watercolour is dated to 1831 and initialled ‘WP’ so appears to be the work of Pratt’s brother William, who travelled to Egypt before him.

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Album page 135. Anti-clockwise from top left: four asymmetrically shaped fine pencil tracings, being detailed studies of various hieroglyphic signs, mainly animals and birds: 20.5 × 17.5, 12.5 × 17.3, 10 × 8.5, 7.7 × 12.1. Ink over pencil study of a ram’s head with crown: 7.4 × 7.5. Pencil study of a vulture with outstretched wings: 7 × 9. The following two drawings appear to be a pair although the treatment differs; the drawing of the god being hatched and the Pharaoh drawing just outlined: Top middle: an ink line-drawing over pencil, the standing figure of Rameses II with the first part of his cartouche: 30.5 × 15.6. Top right: an ink line-drawing, the standing figure of a falcon-headed god with the second part of Rameses II’s cartouche: 30.5 × 16.2.

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Album page 136. A pastel landscape of sailing boats on the river Nile at sunrise with temples in a palm grove on the shore: 14.3 × 23.6.

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Other items Some later and unrelated items which do not come from Pratt’s album were found loose, stored inside the front and back covers. Inside the front cover: Loose 1. Lloyds Bank printed testimonial of condolence to Col. E. R. Pratt on the loss of his son, their employee, an early volunteer during World War I who died on active service in 1915. Verso, in ink ‘Lionel Henry Pratt’: 51.7 × 64.7, folded.

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Loose 2. Illustrated newspaper cutting of 1905, print showing (Ottoman?) sailors on board a sailing vessel, initialled bottom right ‘H. M.’: 22.5 × 29.7.

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Loose 3. Sepia-wash drawing of a cottage: 24 × 31.7.

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Loose 4. Print (from Grobert 1801, pl. LX), ‘Plan des pyramides de Ghize’ and ‘Pyramide, dite de Chéops’: 31.1 × 46.2.

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Inside the back cover: Loose 5. A print of a pastoral scene by the Dutch Golden Age painter Nicolaes Peterszoon Berchem, ‘Berghem delin.’: 18.5 × 25.3.

POSTSCRIPT

Acknowledgements

With grateful thanks to Forum Auctions, London, and in particular to Richard Carroll and Elio Stolz, for their most generous help in providing all the photographs of the album for Greece which appear courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.

Many thanks are also due to Ian Jenkins and Celeste Farge of the Department of Greece and Rome, the British Museum, for their kind help with the journal and album for Greece.

‘GREECE’ THE ALBUM By an extraordinary coincidence Edward Roger Pratt’s album for Greece was rediscovered just prior to the publication of this volume. Richard Carroll, Works on Paper Specialist at Forum Auctions in London, was cataloguing the album for auction and contacted the British Museum after seeing the publisher’s advertisement for the forthcoming book. Unfortunately the album for Greece is in a sadly depleted state compared with the Egypt album; many pages are loose or missing and it appears that any large finished watercolours and many other drawings and perhaps photographs have been removed. As Pratt drew black-ink framing lines on the page around his drawings, the size and number of some of the missing drawings is evident. Pratt’s journal refers to his sketching at sites such as the remains of the archaic temple of Athena Polias at the Acropolis in Athens, which had begun to be cleared by his companion Ludvig Ross. Pratt also noted making drawings of the Parthenon, the Temple of Jupiter, the Tower of the Winds, ‘Porto Léone’ (the port of Piraeus), and the ‘Acrocorinto’, the acropolis of ancient Corinth, all of which drawings or paintings are now missing, although many of the more esoteric and less easily identifiable drawings remain. Ghostly remains of

a few missing drawings can be seen in the vestigial imprints they have left on the soft paper of the album pages opposite. There are several illustrative prints included, as is the case for the Egypt album, and additionally the album for Greece holds a series of early photographs of sites in Athens: one professional ‘Studio’ series can be dated to 1859, but two albumen photographs of the Erechtheion and one of the Lysicrates Monument may be the work of an early amateur photographer. With a few exceptions, Pratt has written titles on the drawings giving the place and year; these are reproduced here in quotation marks: e.g. ‘Athens 1833’. Pencil numbers on the pages against each item, shown here between curly brackets {}, indicate that there were originally some 177 items in the album and the sequence of these numbers has been maintained in the album as found; however, a large number of items are apparently missing. The pages have been numbered here for clarity and they have been catalogued as found. All measurements are given in centimetres, height × width (unless otherwise stated).

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Cover: A similar marbled cover to the album for Egypt: 41.2 × 55.8 (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) The spine has a manuscript label: ‘Greece’.

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Inside the front cover is pasted Edward Roger Pratt’s bookplate. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.)

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Album page 1. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Loose: three watercolour sketches: all 16 × 20: Top left: two views of the coast seen from the sea on Pratt’s voyage out: ‘Gozo 1832’ and ‘Zembra’, a Tunisian island (see Journal, 24 September 1832). {4} Top right: two views of the coast seen from the sea on his voyage out: ‘Capo di Ferro 1832 – Coast of Barbary’ (the North African coast, see Journal 18 September 1832). According to Tobias Smollett (Smollett 1848, 721), the French town of Nice ‘lies exactly opposite to Capo di Ferro, on the Coast of Barbary’. {6} Bottom left: three sketches of the coast of islands seen from the sea on his voyage out: ‘Tabarca 1832’, ‘Galita’ (the Galite islands) and ‘Zembra’ (see Journal, 23–24 September 1832). Tabarca is an island off the coast of Spain and another island called Tabarka lies off the North African coast close to the border between Algeria and Tunisia. {5} Bottom right: a print of the harbour at ‘Malta’: ‘Drawn by J. M. W. Turner R.A. Engraved by E. Finden’. William and Edward Finden’s plates were published as illustrations to The life and works of Lord Byron (Brockedon 1833–34): 10.7 × 14.5. {7}

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Album page 2. (verso of page 1): (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Titled ‘Cape Leucadia. Lovers Leap’, a steel engraved print ‘Drawn by Copley Fielding. Engraved by E. Finden’ (Brockedon 1833–34): 9.6 × 13. {8} A small print cutting of Cantos XXXIX–XLI from Byron’s Childe Harold. These verses record thoughts evoked by sailing past Ithaca, the Leucadian Cape (where tradition has it that the poet Sappho jumped from the cliffs) and Trafalgar: 9 × 6.2.

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[Some five pages may have been cut out here] Album page 3. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: a sepia-wash drawing of the postern gate at Mycenae, titled ‘Mycene 1832’and ‘MYCENA 1832’. It is the ‘Petite porte, à Mycènes’ as illustrated in a small sketch in Ernest Breton’s Athènes (Breton 1862, 337): 18.5 × 26.8. {16} Bottom: ‘Tyrens 1833 [sic]’, a sepia-wash drawing of the remains of a tunnel of Cyclopean masonry at the Hill Fort of Tiryns, a Mycenaean archaeological site. It is illustrated by Breton (1862, 347) as the ‘Galerie de Tirynthe’: 16 × 25. {17} The blank verso of page 3 bears the faint but visible imprint of a drawing, now missing. In the centre of a wide landscape view, two classical columns can be seen. This perhaps was a view of the two columns of Hadrian’s Aquaduct on the outskirts of Athens, also drawn by Louis-François Cassas.

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[Some three pages cut out] Album page 3a. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A text page from The antiquities of Athens and other monuments of Greece by J. Stuart and N. Revett (1794, Vol. III, ch. V, 35/36), ‘Of the Monument of Philopappus’: 38 × 27.5. The Philopappos Monument is located on Mouseion Hill in Athens, southwest of the Acropolis. The page is attached to a print (Stuart and Revett 1794, Vol. III, ch. V, pl. III) showing the façade of the monument including the niche and reliefs: 27.5 × 27.2.

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[Some two pages cut out] Album page 3b. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A faded albumen photograph of the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens. This monument is known for the first use of the Corinthian order on the exterior of a building. It was previously embedded into the walls of the Capuchin convent which was demolished in 1821 after being burned by the Ottomans during the Greek War of Independence. Pratt tells us that on 24 November 1832 he ‘began to dig around the Monument Choragic of Lysicrates’: 28 × 21.5. {37}

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Album page 4. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) No title. These two drawings are general views of the Pnyx, Athens, from their similarity to the small sketch, ‘Vue génerale du Pnyx’ by Breton (1862, 324). The Pnyx was a small rocky hill in central Athens, a site for popular assemblies in ancient times and the official meeting place of the Athenian democratic assembly. Top: a sepia-wash panoramic landscape view of the Pnyx with the remains of a low semi-circular stone wall forming a platform; a small hut to the left. What appear to be the speaker’s steps can just be seen at the back of the platform: 19.5 × 49.8. {44} Bottom: probably a detail of the Pnyx platform’s Cyclopean walls with a small figure to show the scale: 7.3 × 28.8. {45} The verso of page 4 is blank but bears the imprint of a large drawing, once opposite, now missing. It clearly shows a view of an arched stone structure, with a large arched entrance to the left and smaller arches beyond to the right.

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Album page 4a. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A photograph of the Temple of Jupiter: ‘Athènes. Tempe de Jupiter ou de l’Olympeium. Construit 530 ans avant J-C. Photographie de Rumine, Paris, 10 Rue Villedo’. Gabriel de Rumine (1841–1871) was taking albumen photographs in Greece in 1859 and, like Pratt, had a strong connection to Lausanne, the town of Rumine’s birth. {47}

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[Missing pages] Album page 5. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top left: a print showing the Tower of the Winds, Athens, identical to the print by Stuart and Revett (1762, Vol. I, ch. III, pl. III) which was engraved by J. Basire. However, this version is printed with a French title at the top of the page: ‘Grèce. Pl. 42. Elévation géometrale de la Tour de Ventes. Delettre et Boutrois del. et sclp.’ This print, therefore, probably comes from Galerie antique, ou, Collection des chefs-d’oeuvre d’architecture de sculpture et de peinture antiques, gravés d’après les meilleurs auteurs, comparés entre eux (1808, 1842). This volume includes plates by Philibert Boutrois, Delettre, Heluis et al.: 28.8 × 21.5. Top right: [drawing missing] perhaps Pratt’s own drawing of the Tower of the Winds (see Journal, 25 February 1833, ‘drew the Tower of the Winds’). Bottom left: a print showing medals and garlands (Stuart and Revett 1762, Vol. I, the vignette above ch. IV): 5.8 × 21.2. Bottom right: a print including vases (Stuart and Revett 1762, Vol. I, the vignette above the Preface): 7 × 20.7.

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Album page 6. (verso of page 5) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Six drawings: Top left: ‘Athens 1833’, a sepia-wash drawing showing a statue on a square base, a ‘Giant from the facade of the rebuilt Odeion of Agrippa, mid-2nd century A.D’ (Camp 2001, pl. 212, 218). These were ‘Huge piers in the form of colossal figures of giants (with snaky tails) and tritons (with fishy tails)’: 22.9 × 19. {54} At right: four other watercolour sketches: 11.5 × 11.5, 5.6 × 7.7, 6.9 × 9.1, 16 × 9.2, showing Ottoman men and women engaged in everyday tasks (sitting beside circular trays or carrying a sack) and a person wearing a hooded coat or cloak. {56, 57, 58, 60} Bottom: a watercolour with sketches of five figures engaged in tasks similar to those above: 14.5 × 18.7. {55} (Two or three more small drawings are missing from this page.)

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Album page 6a. (Photograph coutesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A photograph of the Temple of Hephaestus or Hephaisteion, known earlier as the Theseion. The temple remains largely as built and is located on the northwest side of the Agora of Athens: ‘Athènes. Le temple de Thésée. Construit 415 ans avant J-C. Photographie de Rumine, Paris, 10 Rue Villedo’. {63}

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Album page 7. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A large sepia-wash view taken from the roof of a classical pedimented temple at ‘Athens’, or perhaps the Propylaea: 23 × 43.4. {65} Below it: a tiny sketch, annotated by Pratt ‘Forchhammer’ (his companion Peter Wilhelm Forchhammer [1801– 1894], the German classical archaeologist) depicts an Athenian coin, probably an Athenian (silver) obol of the mid–late 6th century. The obol’s design is an owl and the reverse is just an incuse punch rather than a specific design. These segmented incuse punches developed into ‘true’ reverses fairly soon after this period and Athens in particular had a wheel design which looks very similar. The join on the pieces is quite typical for early coin drawings – it simply indicates that the two sides belong together:1 2.5 × 4. {66} [A smaller drawing below is missing. {66}] 1

For information on the coin I am most grateful for a personal communication from Amelia Dowler, the British Museum.

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Album page 8. (verso of page 7) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A cutting from a print showing two figures in front of the Propylaea, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis where the intercolumnar spaces have been walled up. This image is part of a slightly larger engraving with additional figures made by William Pars for the Society of Dilettanti. This larger print appears as pl. I in Stuart and Revett (1787, Vol. II, ch. V). Stuart and Revett’s Introduction to Vol. II explains that Pars’s work was used for the volume because Stuart did not draw this monument: 16.7 × 23.7. {67}

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Album page 9. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A sepia-wash landscape view of the Propylaea ‘Athens 1833’: 23 × 51. {70} The verso of page 9 shows the imprint of a lost drawing opposite: a large, full-page-width view of part of a large peristyle building at right and at far right two other columns, part of another structure, with a lower building to the left; probably the Parthenon or other buildings from the Acropolis.

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Album page 9a. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A photograph of the Parthenon: ‘Athènes. Acropolis, Le Parthénon. Construit 365 ans avant J-C. Photographie de Rumine, Paris, 10 Rue Villedo’. {82}

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[Missing large drawing] {83} Album page 10. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Large print showing the west and east fronts of the Parthenon pediments: ‘Pediments of the Parthenon as they were in 1683, London: Published Jan 1 1810 by J. Taylor’: 26.3 × 48.

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Album page 10a. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Tipped in: A photograph of the Erechtheion, the temple on the north side of the Acropolis of Athens dedicated to Athene and Poseidon: ‘Athènes. Acropolis. Vue Générale de l’Erecthaeum. Photographie de Rumine, Paris, 10 Rue Villedo’. {86}

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Album page 11. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Loose, found here but formerly at the front of the album and showing the imprint of Pratt’s bookplate from the inner front cover: A drawing with two watercolour views of the coast seen from the sea, ‘Trafalgar Bay’ and ‘TRAFAL[gar] 183[2]’: 13 × 19.4. {2} A print of the bay of ‘Cadiz’, ‘Drawn by Lieut. Col. Batty. Engraved by E. Finden’ (Brockedon 1833–34): 10.4 × 14.4. {3}

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Album page 12. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: [a missing drawing] {87} Bottom: a print of ‘The Temple of Pandrosus at Athens’ (the Erechtheion) showing the front elevation with its caryatids. ‘From Stewart’, therefore probably the engraving ‘The Temple of Pandrosus at Athens’, published 1 February 1805 by the artist (?James) Stewart. At first glance it appears identical to the engraving published in Stuart and Revett (1787, Vol. II, ch. II, pl. XVI); however, it differs in that the caryatids are positioned differently from those in the Stuart and Revett image (apparently a mirror image of the Stuart and Revett version): 19 × 24. {88} Above it a drawing has been removed, perhaps Pratt’s own view of the Erechtheion.

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Album page 13. (verso of page 12) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Watercolour view of the so-called ‘Prison of Socrates’, a structure cut into the rocky slopes of Mouseion Hill, Athens, titled ‘Athens 1833’. A man wearing a red tarbush or fez, blue coat and tight white trousers at the left-hand entrance, bottom left a groundplan of the building interior, a tomb monument at right. Perhaps it is a monumental dwelling; the use of the rooms, seen on Pratt’s groundplan, is not known: 16.9 × 40. {89}

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Album page 14. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: ‘Athens 1833’, a watercolour landscape view near to the Pnyx showing the so-called tomb of Cimon (Kimon), a victor in the chariot-races at the Olympic Games in 536, 532 and 528 BC. He was the father of Miltiades (famous for his part in the victory at Marathon) and grandfather of the Athenian general Cimon (also famous for victories over the Persians). Pratt has added a small groundplan of the interior. A sketch of the tomb can be seen in Breton (1862, 326): 18.7 × 40. {90} Bottom: a watercolour landscape view of rock-cut openings on a hill near the Pnyx, probably that described but not sketched by Breton (1862, 326). That description is given directly below and relating to the description of the tomb of Cimon: ‘A la droite du tombeau [Cimon] on voit dans le rocher l’indication d’un escalier qui conduisait au sommet de la colline entièrement couvert de vestiges de constructions taillées dans le roc, chambres, escaliers, citernes, etc.’ A man in a red tarbush and blue coat is shown at the entrance; there is also a groundplan of the interior, ‘Athens 1833’: 18.8 × 34.5. {91}

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Album page 15. (verso of page 14) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A small engraving, ‘Fig. 1’, an architectural elevation of the Arch of Hadrian, Athens: 10.8 × 10.7. {91} [sic]. Above this small print can be seen the very faint imprint of the missing large drawing on page 16. Album page 16. [Missing large drawing] Possibly Pratt’s own drawing of the Arch of Hadrian (on the imprint double-height columns are perhaps faintly visible as pale images) or maybe of the Temple of Jupiter, near to the Arch of Hadrian on the previous page (see Journal, 9 November 1832, ‘drew T of Jupiter’). {92}

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Album page 17. (verso of page 16) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A faded albumen photograph of the side of the Erechtheion: 21.4 × 27. {93}

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Album page 18. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) An untitled, and otherwise unidentified, sepiawash panoramic landscape view showing two steep distant hills, the taller having a small construction on the summit. There is a gateway in a wall at left with two figures walking towards it, and two Ottoman gravestones nearby. At right a small stone hut and another two figures nearby. The pencil numbering places it between {93} and {94}, both showing the Erechtheion, so it is probably a view in Athens, and it appears to show Mount Lycabettus. The gateway might be part of the enclosure wall of the city: 23.2 × 49.50. {94}

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Album page 19. (verso of page 18) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A faded albumen photograph of a view taken facing towards the caryatids on the façade of the Erechtheion: 20.5 × 23. {95} Album page 20. [A long drawing, missing] The page opposite shows the imprint of the missing drawing, which was a landscape view from the coastline out to an inlet or harbour, with a ship at the centre of the drawing.

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Album page 21. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) A sepia-wash view of a thatched hut, another hut beyond it: ‘Misaca 1833’. See Journal, 5 April 1833, ‘to Misaca, in the way I saw Olympia. Here was the worst house I had during my journey’: 16.8 × 28.2. {117}

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Album page 22. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: [A large drawing missing]. The blank page opposite holds a good imprint of this missing drawing. It was of a landscape view in the countryside with trees and a central valley or perhaps a rocky stream. Bottom: a small print of ‘Mount Olympus’. ‘Drawn by W. Purser. Engraved by E. Finden’ (Brockedon 1833–34): 10 × 12.5. {135}

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Album page 23. (verso of page 22) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: a sepia-wash drawing of a ruined brick archway on a hill with a gravestone outside it where a seated man in Ottoman dress is smoking a long pipe, ‘Smirna 1834’ and below it in pencil on the page: ‘return from Egypt’. The view perhaps looks down from a height to a harbour below at right: 18 × 25.5. {176} Bottom: a watercolour sketch of a barefoot man in loose white trousers, a black, wide-brimmed hat and a blue and white striped shirt, perhaps a British or European sailor: 8.7 × 8.4. {177}

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Album page 24. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Loose: A large sepia-wash and watercolour view of the Gate of Athena Archegetis in Athens, a Doric portico which led into the ancient Agora of the Roman period. Written on the page: ‘1833’: 24 × 52.2. {53}

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Album page 25. (verso of page 24) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) An engraving of the entablature and order of the Tower of the Winds: ‘Détails de l’architecture des Portiques de la Tour des vents. Grèce. Pl. 53. Delettre del. Heluis sculp.’ This engraving is perhaps also after that made by Stuart and Revett 1762, Vol. I, ch. III, pl. III (as reproduced in Galerie antique, etc. 1808, 1842): 28.2 × 21.6.

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Album page 26. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Loose: Top: ‘SMIRNA 1834’ [Smyrna] a sepia-wash view of a ruined fortress wall with battlements and the arched main gate of Kadifekale Castle, Pratt’s ‘Chateau’ (see Journal for Smyrna, 2 June 1834). The Amazon-head figure seen here embedded in the outer wall was mentioned by other travellers but is now lost: 17.6 × 25.5. {145} To the right of the drawing on page 26 there is the imprint of another missing drawing showing two large buildings, one with three floors of windows, possibly at Smyrna. What may be the harbour can be seen beyond and there is a city wall with an entrance in the foreground. Bottom: a watercolour with a note on the page below it: ‘on board coming from Egypt to Smyrna 1834’ showing five black slaves and five Ottoman figures on the deck of a ship. (See Journal, 9 May 1834.): 9.2 × 16.8. {145} [sic]

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Album page 27. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Loose: Top: ‘Arrived 27 of May left 9 of June 13 days’ and ‘Ancona 1833’. A very fine, large, sepia-wash drawing of the courtyard of the Lazaretto in Ancona, Italy, showing travellers in both European and Ottoman dress strolling about. Entrances to the building from the courtyard are numbered and number 9 has a sign over the door reading ?‘Ufficio’. Two gentlemen in European dress are kneeling at the steps of the central Tempietto. The Lazaretto was an 18th-century pentagonal building, commissioned by Pope Clement XII and designed by the architect and painter Luigi Vanvitelli (1700–1773). It was constructed on an artificial island but is now connected to the mainland by three bridges. It served as a quarantine station for travellers and goods returning to the port of Ancona from the East, and also to house lepers. In the centre of the courtyard is a well and a Neoclassical Tempietto, dedicated to the patron of lepers, St Roch. Later used as a military citadel, it is presently the site of a museum: 27 × 45. {152} Bottom left: a print showing the ‘Grand Hotel Royal’ Venice, from the Grand Canal: 8.7 × 13.2. {153} Bottom centre: a print showing the Piazzetta, the section of the Piazza San Marco, Venice, which leads to the lagoon. The view looks towards the lagoon: 8.5 × 13. {154} Bottom right: a print showing the ‘Grand Hotel de l’Europe’ from the Grand Canal, Venice: 8.8 × 13.5. {155}

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Album page 28. (verso of page 27) (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: A sepia-wash sketch, titled ‘Rhodes’; at left: four heraldic coats of arms, and at right: coats of arms on a gothic window or gateway, from the palace or fortifications built in the 14th century by the Knights of Rhodes: 7.5 × 17.1. {156} Middle: a watercolour showing the interior of a ceramics studio or shop with wares, both plain clay vessels and coloured plates, displayed on the walls. Two figures, perhaps the shopkeepers, are shown seated: 11 × 19.3. {157} Bottom: a print showing the harbour at ‘Rhodes’. ‘Drawn by J. M. W. Turner R. A. Engraved by W. Finden’ (Brockendon 1833–34): 9.8 × 13.2. {158}

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Album page 29. (Photograph courtesy of Forum Auctions, London.) Top: a pink-wash view from the sea of the island of ‘Rhodes 1834’: 8.5 × 28. {159} Middle: a sepia-wash view of an arched entrance to a mosque with a minaret beside it, ‘Rhodes 1834’. (See Journal for Rhodes, 19 May 1834): ‘I rode with the Frenchman to see the interior of the island to a place where were some magnificent plane trees & then to a church (the church or mosk I drew)’. Pratt’s confusion as to whether this was a church or mosque is due to the typical architecture of the drum and dome of the Byzantine church, to which a minaret has been added, converting it to a mosque during the Turkish Occupation. This specific church has not been identified although it might be the Agios Nikolaos Foundoukli late Byzantine church dedicated to St Nicholas, famous for its 15th-century frescoes. It is 2 km from Eleousa in the interior of the island surrounded by very old olive and oriental plane trees, although no minaret is present today: 17.6 × 25.6. {160} Bottom: [drawing missing] {161}

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Abbreviations Franklin MS: Lady Jane Franklin’s Journal in Egypt, 1833. Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge. [Excerpts appear by permission of the University of Cambridge, Scott Polar Research Institute.] PM III2: B. Porter and R. L. B. Moss. 1981. 2nd edition revised and augmented by J. Malek. Topographical bibliography of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic texts, reliefs and paintings. Vol. III2: Memphis: Saqqara to Dahshur. Oxford. PM IV: B. Porter and R. L. B. Moss. 1934. Topographical bibliography of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic texts, reliefs and paintings. Vol. IV: Lower and Middle Egypt. Oxford. NRO: Norfolk Record Office, The Archive Centre, Norwich.

Bibliography Bednarski, A. 2005. Holding Egypt: Tracing the reception of the Description de l’Égypte in nineteenthcentury Great Britain. London. Bierbrier, M. L. (ed.). 2012. Who was who in Egyptology. 4th revised edition. London. Bosticco, S. [Catalogi di]. Museo archeologico di Firenze. 1965. Le stele egiziane del Nuovo Regno. Florence. Boulos, L. 2000. Flora of Egypt, Vol. 2, Cairo. Brack, A. 1977. Das Grab des Tjanuni: Theben Nr. 74. Mainz. Breton, E. 1862. Athènes: Décrite et dessinée par Ernest Breton. Paris. Brockedon, W. 1833–34. Finden’s illustrations of the life and works of Lord Byron: With original and selected information on the subjects of the engravings. London. Burton, J. 1825–28. Excerpta hieroglyphica. Cairo. Camp, J. M. 2001. The archaeology of Athens. New Haven; London. Champollion, J.-F. 1833. Lettres écrites d’Égypte et de Nubie en 1828 et 1829. Paris.

Champollion, J.-F. 1834–45. Monuments de l’Égypte et de la Nubie: Notices descriptives conformes aux manuscrits autographes, rédigés sur les lieux par Champollion le Jeune. Paris. Champollion, J.-F. c.1986. Lettres et journaux écrits pendant le voyage d’Égypte, recueillis et annotés par H. Hartleben. Introduction de Richard Lebeau. Paris. Champollion, J.-F. 2001. Egyptian diaries: How one man solved the mysteries of the Nile. London. Commission des sciences et arts d’Égypte. 1809–29. Description de l’Égypte. Paris. Conder, J. 1827. The modern traveller. A popular description, geographical, historical and topographical of the various countries of the globe. Egypt, Nubia and Abyssinia. London. Dalton, R. 1790–91. Antiquities and views in Greece and Egypt; with the manners and customs of the inhabitants: from drawings made on the spot, A.D. 1749. London. Davies, N. de G. 1903. The rock tombs of El Amarna. Part I: The tomb of Meryra. Archaeological Survey of Egypt, Thirteenth Memoir. London. De Keersmaecker, R. O. 2012. Travellers’ graffiti from Egypt and the Sudan. The temples of Abu Simbel. Antwerp. De Meulenaere, H. 1965. Une sacerdoce spécifique de Basse Époque. Chronique d’Égypte 40: 249–55. Denon, V. 1802. Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte. Paris. Denon, V. 1829. Monuments des arts du dessin chez les peuples tant anciens que modernes, recueillis par Vivant Denon. Paris. Denon, V. 1990. Voyage dans la basse et la haute Égypte. Vol. II, Planches. Cairo. Dewachter, M. 1971. Graffiti des voyageurs du XIXe siècle relevés dans le temple d’Amada en BasseNubie. Bulletin de l’Institut français d’archéologie orientale 69: 131–70. Galerie antique, ou, Collection des chefs-d’oeuvre de d’architecture de sculpture et de peinture antiques, gravés d’après les meilleurs auteurs, comparés

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entre eux. Tome 1, Première division: La Grèce. 1808, 1842. Paris; Strasbourg. Ghali, I. A. 1986. Vivant Denon ou la conquête du Bonheur. Cairo. Grobert, J. 1801. Description des pyramides de Ghize. Paris. Hogg, E. 1835. Visit to Alexandria, Damascus, and Jerusalem, during the successful campaign of Ibrahim Pasha. 2 vols. London. Hornung, E. 1999. Akhenaten and the religion of light. Translated by D. Lorton. Ithaca; London. Kelly’s Directory of Cambridgeshire, Norfolk and Suffolk. 1883. Mackworth-Praed, C. W. and C. H. B. Grant. 1960. Birds of eastern and north eastern Africa. Series I, Vol. I. London; New York; Toronto. Manniche, L. 1991. Music and musicians in ancient Egypt. London. Meinertzhagen, Colonel R. 1930. Nicoll’s Birds of Egypt. London. Moore, T. 1830. Letters & journals of Lord Byron, with notices of his life. London. Noel-Baker, B. 2000. An isle of Greece: The Noels in Euboea. Privately published. Oliver, A. 2014. American travelers on the Nile: Early visitors to Egypt, 1774–1839. Cairo. Reeves, C. N. and R. H. Wilkinson. c.1996. The complete Valley of the Kings: Tombs and treasures of Egypt’s greatest pharaohs. London. Rifaud, J.-J. 1830. Tableau de l’Égypte, de la Nubie et des lieux circonvoisins: ou itinéraire à l’usage des voyageurs qui visitent ces contrées. Paris. Robinson, A. 2012. Cracking the Egyptian code: The revolutionary life of Jean-François Champollion. London. Russell, P. 1997. The allure of the Nile: Jane Franklin’s voyage to the Second Cataract, 1834. Gender and History 9 (2): 222–41. Sams, J. 1839. Ancient Egypt: Objects of antiquity forming part of the extensive and rich collections from ancient Egypt brought to England by, or now in the possession of, J. Sams. London. Schlick-Nolte, B., et al. 1993. Ägyptische Bildwerke, Liebieghaus, Museum Alter Plastik. Vol. 3. Gutenberg. Scott, C. R. 1837. Rambles in Egypt and Candia. Vol. I. London.

Smollett, T. 1848. The miscellaneous works of Tobias Smollett: Complete in one volume. London. Solkin, V. V. 2004. The sphinxes of Amenhotep III in Saint Petersburg. In J. C. Goyon and C. Cardin (eds), Proceedings of the Ninth International Congress of Egyptologists, Grenoble. Orientalia Lovaniensia Analecta 150. Leuven. Vol. 2, 1713–18. St. John, J. A. 1834. Egypt and Mohammed Ali; Or, travels in the valley of the Nile. London. Stuart, J. and N. Revett. 1762–1830. The antiquities of Athens and other monuments of Greece. London. (Vol. I, 1762; Vol. II, 1787; Vol. III, 1794.) Tillett, S. 1984. Egypt itself. London. Varille, A. 1938. La Tombe de Ni-Ankh-Pepi à Zâouyet El-Mayetîn. Mémoires publiés par les membres de l’Institut français d’archéologie orientale du Caire 70. Cairo. Venn, J. and J. A. Venn (eds). 1953. Alumni Cantabrigienses: A biographical list of all known students, graduates and holders of office at the University of Cambridge, from the earliest times to 1900. Vol. 2, 1752–1900, Part 5. Cambridge. Digitally published version 2011. Vittmann, G. 2007. ‘A Question of names, titles and iconography.’ Kushites in priestly, administrative and other positions from Dynasties 25 to 26. Der Antike Sudan 18: 150–1. Wilkinson, J. G. 1835. The topography of Thebes and general view of Egypt. London. Wilkinson, J. G. 1843. Modern Egypt and Thebes: Being a description of Egypt: including the information required for travellers in that country. London. Wilkinson, J. G. 1878. The manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians including their private life, government, laws, arts, manufactures, religion, and early history; derived from a comparison of the paintings, sculptures, and monuments still existing, with the accounts of ancient authors including their private life, government, laws, arts, manufactures, religion, and early history; derived from a comparison of the paintings, sculptures, and monuments still existing, with the accounts of ancient authors. London. Winlock, H. E. 1929. Notes on the reburial of Tuthmosis I. Journal of Egyptian Archaeology 15: 56–68. Wordsworth, C. 1837. Athens and Attica: Journal of a residence there. London.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Manuscripts Diaries, Travel Journals and Letters of Edward Roger Pratt (1789–1838) and Pratt family records held at the Norfolk Record Office: PRA 691, Pedigree notes PRA 745, ‘Diary of E. R. Pratt’ 1789–1849 PRA 746, E. R. Pratt’s notebook ‘1807 Wales’, July– September 1807 PRA 747, Personal accounts of E. R. Pratt, 1808–21 PRA 748, E. R. Pratt Travel Journal, Italy and Switzerland, April–November 1816 PRA 749, Correspondence, 1817–21

429

PRA 750, E. R. Pratt’s Travel Journal, Italy, 1818–30 PRA 752, E. R. Pratt’s Travel Journal, Greece, Italy and Egypt, 1832–34 Periodicals Riggs, the Revd Elias. 1833. Extracts from the Journal of, The Missionary Herald at Home and Abroad, Vol. 29, 309. The Royal-Athena Galleries, New York and London, Catalogue no. 85, Art of the Ancient World, Vol. XIX, January 2008.

SELECT INDEX OF PLACES

Pratt’s writing is often hard to decipher and he spelt names as he heard them and inconsistently. This index uses the correct names, where known, followed by Pratt’s versions in single quotation marks.

Aboukir 46, 75, 88 Abu Qirqas, ‘Abou Girget’ 49 Abu Simbel, ‘Abou Sembal’ 16, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 48n83, 56, 57, 77, 88, 308–328 Abydos, ‘el-Arabah Madfoune’, ‘Madfouné’, ‘el-Araba el-Madfuna’ 16 Fig. 19, 21, 22, 33, 60, 61 Fig. 53, 69, 77, 154, 158 Aegina, ‘Egina’ 12 Fig. 16, 39 Akhmim, ‘Ekhmim’ 52, 69, 76 Akrata, ‘Acrata’ 12 Fig. 16, 44 Alexandria 1, 7, 10, 11, 11n19, 12, 13, 13 Fig. 18, 14, 14n22, 15, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 18nn31–32, 19, 46, 46n69, 48n82, 58, 62, 67, 73, 75, 77, 80, 84, 88 Amada 11, 16 Fig. 19, 48n83, 56, 57, 77, 298–300 el-Amarna, ‘Amana’ 16 Fig. 19, 18, 60, 68, 76, 77, 138–146 Ancona 11, 45, 420 Andritsaina, ‘Andritzana’ 44 Antinoe 69 Argos 12 Fig. 16, 39, 43 Armant, ‘Ermant’, ‘Erment’ 54, 55, 76, 77, 246, 332, 336 el-Asasif, ‘Assasif’, See Thebes Ashmunein 68 Aswan, ‘Assouan’ 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 55, 58, 77, 256, 264, 278 Asyut, ‘Siout’ 16, 51, 52, 60, 77, 82, 148–150, 162 Athens 10, 11, 12, 16, 39, 39n19, 40, 40nn25,30–32, 41–45, 355, 364–390, 394–406, 414–416 el-Badrashein, ‘Bedrechein’, ‘Bedreshein’ 49, 61, 68, 76 Bassae 44, 44n60 Beit el-Wali, ‘Betoualli’ 16 Fig. 19, 57, 77, 274–278 Beni Hasan, ‘Beni-hassan-el-aamar’, ‘Beni Hassan’ 11, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 50, 51 Fig. 43, 60, 68, 69, 70 Fig. 58, 76, 77, 112, 116–136 Beni Souef 49, 60, 67, 67 Fig. 55

Biga Island, ‘Béghé’ 58 Bougia, ‘Boujah’, ‘Boojah’ 19, 63 Boulak, ‘Boulac’, ‘Bulack’ 15, 48, 62 Buyukdere, ‘Buikdere’ 64 Cadiz, ‘Cadis’ 37, 392 Cairo 10, 14, 15, 16, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 19, 20, 40n28, 47, 47n79, 48, 48n82, 49, 55, 61, 61 Fig. 54, 67, 67 Fig. 55, 73, 77, 92, 96, 242, 244 Cephalonia 12 Fig. 16, 38 Charaki, ‘Karki’ 62, 62n118 Chios, ‘Scio’ 63, 63n120 Cley 9 Constantinople 1, 12, 18, 19, 42, 43, 43n51, 63, 64, 84 Corfu 11, 12 Fig. 16, 37n4, 38, 45, 65, 73 Corinth 12 Fig. 16, 44, 355 Dabod, ‘Debout’ 55, 57, 77, 272 Dakka, ‘Dakke’, ‘Dakkeh’ 16 Fig. 19, 55, 57, 57 Fig. 50, 73, 77, 280–282, 286–296 Delphi 12 Fig. 16, 44 Dendera, ‘Denderah’ 11, 16, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 52, 52 Fig. 45, 53, 60, 69, 70 Fig. 59, 77, 164–174, 202 Dendur, ‘Dandur’ 57, 77, 278 Derr, ‘Deir’ 18, 56, 56 Fig. 49, 57, 77, 302 Dimitsana, ‘Dimitzana’ 44 Dongola 18 Edfu, ‘Edfou’ 16, 58, 69, 71 Fig. 60, 256–258, 262 Elephantine 18n30, 264, 336 Elis 44 Elkab, ‘el Kab’, ‘el Cab’ 4, 55, 58, 77, 248–254 Ephesus, ‘Ephasus’ 65 Esna, ‘Esne’ 17, 20, 33, 55, 58, 82, 244 Falmouth 37 Fayoum 33 Feshen 49, 68, 68 Fig. 56

432

SELECT INDEX OF PLACES

Galaxidi 44 Galita 38, 360 Gallipoli 63 Gebel Adda, ‘Ghibel Addeh’ 56, 77, 330–332 Gebel el Shams 336 Gebel Sheikh Abu Foda, ‘Gebel Abou Fodde’ 50, 51, 51 Fig. 44, 77, 148 Gebel el-Sheikh el-Haridi, ‘Ghebel Eredi’ 69 Gebel Silsila, ‘Ghebel Selseleh’, ‘Ghebel Silsileh’ 16 Fig. 19, 58, 69, 71 Fig. 61, 77, 256, 260 Gebel el-Teir, ‘Gebel el Their’ 49, 60, 77, 108 Geneva 11, 26 Gerf Hussein, ‘Girche’ 57, 77, 284 Girga, ‘Girgeh’ 52, 60, 66 Giza, ‘Jizeh’, ‘Gizeh’ 15, 48, 51 Fig. 42, 61, 67, 77, 96, 100, 102, 350 Gozo 38, 360 Gravesend 11 Hydra

Menidi 42 Minya, ‘Maniet’, ‘Minieh’ 49, 68, 76, 110 Misaca 44, 408 Missolonghi 19n34, 38 Mycenae, ‘Mycene’, ‘Mycena’ 39, 364 Mytilene, ‘Metaline’, ‘Miteline’ 19, 63, 64 Nauplia 12 Fig. 16, 38, 40, 43 Nemea 39 Olympia 12 Fig. 16, 44, 408 ‘Ostamah’ (south of Gerf Hussein)

55

Pantellaria 38 Patmos 63 Patras, ‘Patrass’ 10, 11, 12 Fig. 16, 13, 38, 44, 45 Paxos 12 Fig. 16, 38 Philae 16 Fig. 19, 17, 55, 57, 58, 69, 71 Fig. 61, 72 Fig. 62, 73, 77, 172, 266–270

11, 12 Fig. 16, 39

Jerusalem

4

Kalabsha, ‘Kalabche’ 17, 55, 57, 276 Kardamili 12 Fig. 16 Karnak, ‘Carnack’, See Thebes Karpanthos, ‘Karpanto’ 62, 62n117 Kom el-Dikka 14 Kom Ombo, ‘Ombos’ 18, 58, 69, 77, 256, 262 Korosko 56 Lausanne 4, 9, 10, 11, 23, 23n44, 25, 46, 372 Lesbos 19 Ligurio 39 Limeni, ‘Limene’ 12, 12 Fig. 16, 38, 39 Luxor, See Thebes Maharraqa, ‘Meharraka’ 57, 72 Fig. 62, 73, 77, 296 Malta 2, 3, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18n31, 19, 38, 39n17, 46, 46n71, 64, 65, 65n130, 360 Manfalut, ‘Manfalout’ 18, 51, 60, 162 Manolada, ‘Manolatha’ 12 Fig. 16, 44 Marathon 12 Fig. 16, 42, 398 Medinet Habu, See Thebes Megaspelion 44 Meidum, ‘Maidum’ 61, 67 ‘Melaom’ (south of Ashmunein) 50 Memphis, ‘Met Rahineh’, ‘Mit Rahineh’ 16 Fig. 19, 48, 49, 50 Fig. 41, 61, 77, 104–106

Qasr Ibrim, ‘Ibrim’ 16 Fig. 19, 56, 77, 306 Qaw el-Kebir, ‘Gau el Kebir’ 60, 68, 69, 70 Figs. 58–59 Qena, ‘Keneh’ 17, 52, 60 Qertassi, ‘Kerdasse’, ‘Kardassi’ 55, 57, 77, 272 Qubbet el-Hawa, ‘el-Akhabet’ 18, 18n30 Qurna, ‘Gourna’, See Thebes Qus, ‘Kous’, ‘Quos’ 59, 69, 71 Fig. 60 Quseir, ‘Cosir’ 60 Rhamnous, ‘Rhamnos’ 42 Rhoda Island, ‘Roda’ 61 Rhodes 19, 48n83, 62, 62nn117–119, 63, 422–424 Samoun 18, 60, 68, 69 Fig. 57 Saqqara, ‘Sakkarah’ 49, 51 Fig. 42, 67, 77, 102, 106 Sawada, ‘Sauadeh’, ‘Souadi’ 49, 68, 68 Fig. 56, 110 es-Sebua See Wadi es-Sebua Skliros, ‘Skiros’ 44 Smyrna, ‘Smirna’ 1, 11, 11n20, 12, 12 Fig. 16, 18, 19, 25, 62, 62n119, 63, 370, 412, 418 Sounion, ‘Sunium’ 12 Fig. 16, 40 Tafa, ‘Tafah’ 55, 57, 77, 272 Tenedos 63 Thebes (Egypt) 2, 2n6, 15, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 19, 22, 33, 36, 54, 55, 55 Fig. 48, 59, 69, 76, 77, 184, 206, 218, 224, 244, 304 el-Asasif, ‘Assasif’ 17, 54, 58, 59 Fig. 51, 77, 204, 206

433

SELECT INDEX OF PLACES

Karnak, ‘Carnack’ 1, 17, 55, 59, 77, 156, 176, 238, 240, 242 Luxor 17, 18, 19, 55, 55n100, 58, 59, 69, 77, 226, 244 Medinet Habu, ‘Medinet Abou’ 18, 54, 55, 58, 77, 228–236 Qurna, ‘Gourna’ 19, 55, 58, 59, 77, 178–182, 186–194, 204–208, 218 Valley of the Kings 37, 53, 53nn89–92, 53 Fig. 46, 54nn93–96, 54 Fig. 47, 59n109, 76, 77, 196, 198, 200, 212, 216–224, 334 Thebes (Greece) 42 Therapia, ‘Tarapia’ 64, 64n122 Thoricus, ‘Thorico’ 40, 40n29 Tiryns, ‘Tyrens’ 364 Tomas 56

Troy 63 Tuna el-Gebel, ‘Touna Ghibel’

60

Valley of the Kings, See Thebes Vari 40 Wadi Halfa, ‘Houadi Halfa’ 1, 16 Fig. 19, 17, 18, 56, 67, 72 Fig. 63, 73, 82, 338 Wadi es-Sebua, ‘Ouadi Esseboua’ 17, 55, 57, 72 Fig. 63, 73, 77, 296 Zante 12 Fig. 16, 38 Zawiyet el-Mayitin, ‘Zayout el Maitin’, ‘Zaouyet-el Maietin’ 16 Fig. 19, 49, 60, 68, 68 Fig. 56, 112–116 Zembra 38, 360

SELECT INDEX OF PEOPLE

Pratt’s writing is often hard to decipher and he spelt names as he heard them and inconsistently. This index uses the correct names, where known, followed by Pratt’s versions in single quotation marks. Where correct names are uncertain, they follow Pratt’s versions in square brackets with a question mark. ‘Brown’ and ‘Browne’ are both found in family papers for Pratt’s maternal grandparents. Achmet (a dragoman and guide) 15, 16, 18, 46, 49, 52, 56, 58, 61, 73 Ackton 38 Agnew, Mr H. C. and Mrs 47, 47n75, 62 Allen, H. M. E., of HMS Actaeon 64, 65 Anastasio, Spiro 38 Anson, Mr 48 Antonio 46 ‘Arlau’ [Arlaud?] 23, 23n44 Arquier, chez 63 Arthur, Michael, of HMS Actaeon 64 Arundel, Mr and Mrs 65 Ashurst, of the 88th Regiment of Foot 38 ‘Askwith’ [Asquith?] 45 Astley, Blanch, ‘Blanche’ (Pratt’s paternal grandmother) 5 Fig. 5, 7n11 Astley, Lady Georgiana 10 Astley, Hester (née Brown, Pratt’s aunt) 7n11 Astley, Sir Jacob (6th Baronet) 7, 7n12, 10, 25 Athanasi, Giovanni d’ 19, 20, 20n37, 27, 30, 55n101 Baartman, Sarah 8 Bankes, William John 1, 9, 46, 46n73, 48n83, 57 Barker 63 Barker, John 15, 17n29, 20, 48, 48n81, 48n84 ‘Barkley’ [Barclay?] 41 Bell 43 Bell, Mrs 15 Bellas 43 Belliard, General 58 Belmore, Lord 1 Belzoni, Giovanni 17, 48, 54, 54n96, 56, 57, 59, 216, 220, 334 Beuthylos 41 Bishoff, of Leeds 37 Black, Mr, of Cadiz 37 Blatchley, C., of HMS Actaeon 45, 64 Boloxopolo, ‘the Effendi’ 45

Bonomi, Joseph 6, 178 Boringdon, Lord 64 Botsaris, ‘Botzari’, [Dimitrios?] 41, 41n37 Brant, James and R. W. 63, 63n121 Brecknock, George Charles Pratt, Earl of 20, 20n35, 39, 39n17 Brecknock, Harriet 20n35 Brelat, Mr 63 Briggs and Co. 11n19, 46n69, 47n75 Briggs, Lady 65 ‘Briton’, Mr 38 Britonniere, M and Mme 45 Brooke, Major and Mrs 37 Brosse, vicomte de 45, 46 Brown, Captain 45 Brown, Col. and Mrs 45 Brown, Pleasance, See Pratt, Pleasance Browne, Captain T., of HMS Caledonia 64 Browne [Brown?], Hester (née Case, Pratt’s maternal grandmother) 5 Fig. 5 Browne, Locanda of 38 Browne [Brown?], Mr Samuel (Pratt’s maternal grandfather) 5, 5 Fig. 5, 25 Buchanon 43 Burton, James 76 Byron, Lord 40n26, 40n32, 64, 65, 65n128, 362 Cameron, Captain of the 42nd Regiment 65 Campbell, ‘Cambell’, Col. 17, 17n29, 48, 48n84, 60, 65 Carruthers, J. H., of HMS Scout 64 Cartwright, John, consul 64 Casali, Mme 41, 41n43 Case, Mr (Pratt’s great-grandfather) 5 Fig. 5 Castex, ‘Castel’ 58, 58n107 Caviglia, Giovanni Battista 49 Cerjat, George J. 25 Cerjat, H. 46

436

SELECT INDEX OF PEOPLE

Cerjat, Mary 23, 25 Cerjat, William Woodley Frederick 25 Champollion, ‘Champolion’, Jean-François 3, 7, 17, 18, 18n32, 20, 20n36, 37, 52, 54nn98–99, 55, 56, 58, 68, 75–77, 128, 130 Chatelanat, Mme G. de 9 Chetham, E., of HMS Talevera 64 Cockburn, Major, of the 95th (Derbyshire) Regiment of Foot 38 Collyer, the Revd Charles 7 Collyer, Sarah 7 ‘Cook’ [Cork?], Dr 43 Couvreu, Mme 46 Crowe, ‘Crow’, G. W., British consul at Patras 45, 45n61 Curzon, Robert 48n85 Custance 38, 39 Dacres, E. B., of HMS Edinburgh 65 Dalton, Richard 76 Davoust 58 Dawkins, Mr 39 Delavalle, Mr 14 Denon, Dominique Vivant 3, 7, 60, 60n110, 75, 76, 77 Desaix 58 Domville 17, 46, 46n71, 60, 65 Donzelot, ‘d’Onzelot’ 58 Drake, Mrs 45 Dunsmure, of the 42nd Regiment 37, 37n5, 38, 65 Dupuy, ‘Dupuis’, A. 6, 17, 18, 18n32, 49, 49n86, 50, 75, 120, 136 Dutton 38 Dyson, ‘Dison’ 41, 43 Eaves, Edward 11, 40, 40n28, 43, 43n55, 60, 60n111, 61, 73, 82 Ede, Mr 38 Elwin, the Revd Caleb 7, 7n12, 8, 10, 26 Errol, Lady 65, 65n130 Errol, Lord 65n130 Fellenberg, Frederick 40, 40n26, 41 ‘Fentti’ [Count Gabriele Ferretti?] 14 Finlay, ‘Finley’, George 40, 40n32, 41, 42, 43 Fisk, Captain 65 Forbes, Colonel 2 Forbin, comte de 1 Forchhammer, Peter Wilhelm (various spellings by Pratt) 40, 40n24, 41, 42, 43, 380

Formanos, George 43, 43n55, 45 Fox, Mr 37, 37n3 Franklin, ‘Frankling’, Lady Jane 1, 1n2, 2, 2 Fig. 3, 3, 13, 14, 15, 15n26, 16, 17, 18, 19–20, 46, 46nn71–72, 49, 53n89, 55n103, 57n106, 58, 58n108, 62n113 Franklin, Sir John 1n2, 3, 13, 14, 15, 46n72 Frere, John Hookham 65, 65n130 Friant 58 Galloway, ‘Galway’ 48, 48n82, 61, 67 Garth, General 10 Garth, Tom 10 Gascoyne, Major 65 George II, King 10 Gibbs 45 Gliddon, George 13, 14, 18n31, 62n114 Glover, Mr George 45, 45n63 Gough 64 Grant, Monsieur 16, 48 Grassi, Dr 14, 14n22 Green, Mr [John?], consul at Nauplia 39, 39n15, 40, 41 Green, Mrs 39 Greenfield 45 Grey, Captain Hon. Frederick William, of HMS Actaeon 38, 38n12, 64, 65 Grey, Captain Hon. G., of HMS Scout 61, 64 Griffiths, Mr 39 ‘Grigs’, Mr 15 Grisotti (a Capo) 39 Gropius, Austrian consul at Athens 39, 39n19, 40 Guiccioli, ‘Guccioli’, Contessa Teresa 65, 65n128 Habib Effendi, Governor of Cairo 48 Hall, R. of HMS Scout 64 Hanney, Mr 62 Harpe, General, Mme, and Mlle de la 46 Hartman 41, 43 Hassan Bey, Governor 52 Hassan, Pilot Rais 55 ‘Hay’, Andrew 39 Hay, Robert, of Linplum ‘Glenplum’ 6, 7 Fig. 10, 17, 18, 19, 37, 49, 49n86, 50, 53, 53n90, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 69, 75, 76, 120 Hayne 38 Heath 45 Heideck, Carl Wilhelm von 44, 44n57 Heijkenskjöld, Margareta Charlotta 14, 14n24, 17, 18, 47, 47n76, 57, 57n106

SELECT INDEX OF PEOPLE

Henniker, Sir Frederick 3 Hervey, Lord Frederick William 9, 47n73 Hill (Pennethorne’s companion) 17, 54 Hill, Mrs Frances M. 43, 43n50, 43n54 Hill, John H. 41, 42, 43 Hinchcliff 45 Hockley 38 Hogg, Dr Edward 3, 3n7, 14, 46, 46n68 Holmes, Mary 25 Hope, Hon. G., of HMS Actaeon 64 Hotham, Sir Henry 39, 39n16 Hughes 46 Ibrahim Pasha 4, 48 Ingestre, Lord, of HMS Tyne 65 Inglot, Captain of the Flora 62 Ingram 45, 46 Jameson, H., of HMS Scout 64 Jochmus, ‘Jocmus’, August Giacomo ‘Justiniani’, ‘Justiniano’, Sr 62, 63

43, 43n48

Kapodistrias, Ionnis 12, 38, 38n11, 39 King, Mr 43, 43n49, 65 Kirkpatrick, Mr and Mrs 45 Kleanthis, ‘Cleanthes’, Stamatios 41, 41n41 Kléber, General 75, 84 Knollis, Mr 8 La Fontaine 11, 11n20, 19, 63, 64 Laidlaw, Dr 19, 62, 62n115 Lane, Edward William 15 Latournerie, ‘Latourneri’, General 58 Leeves, Mr 45 Lesseps, Ferdinand de 80 ‘Lider’ 43 Lieder, Johann Rudolph Theophilus 1, 1n1, 2, 17, 18, 57n106 Light, Colonel (later Sir) Henry 3 ‘Luzzo’ 42 Machenaud, Mr 16 Marque, chez 63 Martin, R. E., of HMS Scout 64 Mason, Mr 37 ‘Massoor’ [Mussuris?] 39, 39n20 Mavromichalis, ‘Mavromichele’, Aristacio 12, 38, 38n11 Mavromichalis, ‘Mavromichele’, Pietro 12, 38, 38n11

437

Mayo, Mr 15, 15n26, 18, 46, 46n71, 48 McBriar, ‘Macbrier’ 62, 62n113 McKinnon, Mr 64 Missett, Ernest 11n19, 46n69 Molesworth, A. J., of HMS Actaeon 64 Moor, Mr 37 ‘Moraglia’ [Morales?], Captain 41, 43 Morgan 40 Muhammad, ‘Mohammed’ Ali, Pasha ‘Pacha’ 1, 12, 16, 17, 18, 43n51, 47, 48, 48n80, 54, 55, 62, 63 Mulligan, Miss 43, 43n54 Mundy, G. R., of HMS Favorite 65 Mustapha 64 Napoleon Bonaparte, ‘Buonaparte’ 76, 84 Needham, Colonel 2, 2n6 Nesham 38 Nizzoli, Giuseppe 22 Noel, Edward 40, 40n27, 41 North, Mr 37 Nugent, Lady 45 Nugent, Lord 37, 37n4, 45

3, 9, 58, 73, 75,

‘Omaley’ [O’Malley?], Colonel 38 Oridge 45 Osman, See Thompson, William 15, 47, 47n79, 48, 61, 62 Pacho, Mons. 47, 47n78 Palagi, Filippo Pelagio 22 Palmer, Sir George 48, 48n85 Panaotti 41 Paparigopoulou, ‘Paparigopolo’ 43, 43n53 Parish, Mr 64 Pennethorne, John (various spellings by Pratt) 17, 17n27, 18, 40, 40n21, 41, 42, 43, 53, 53n89, 54, 55, 68 Pettigrew, T. J. 2 Phelps, Mr and Mrs 45 ‘Philolethes’ [Philalethes?] 43 Pigot, Captain, of HMS Barham 39, 39n18 ‘Portalis’ [Pourtales?], Miss 14, 14n25, 47 Postle, Edward 25, 46 Postle, Eliza Woodley 25 Postle, Gunton 25 Postle, Mary Cerjat 23, 25 Pratt, Blanch (Pratt’s sister) 4n10, 10, 26 Pratt, Charles 4n10 Pratt, Charles Browne 4n10

438

SELECT INDEX OF PEOPLE

Pratt, Edward (Pratt’s grandfather) 5 Fig. 5, 7n11 Pratt, Edward Roger (Senior) 4, 4 Fig. 4, 5, 5 Fig. 5, (23?), 25, 25 Fig. 26, 73 Pratt, Harriet 4n10, 9, 10, 26 Pratt, Henrietta-Blanch 4n10 Pratt, Henry 4n10, 7, 8, 9 Fig. 14 Pratt, ‘Jermyn’, Walter Jermyn Murray 4n10, 7, 10, 20n35, 23, 26, 39n17, 46 Pratt, Lucy 4n10, 10, 26 Pratt, Maria 4n10, 9, 19, 46 Pratt, Mary Louisa 20n35, 26, 39n17 Pratt, Piers 21, 27 Pratt, Pleasance 4, 5 Fig. 5, 6 Fig. 8, 7n11, 25 Pratt, Robert 4n10 Pratt, Sir Roger 4, 6 Fig. 6 Pratt, William (Pratt’s brother) 4n10, 7, 9, 10, 11, 26, 48, 48n83, 77, 338 Pratt, William (Pratt’s ancestor) 4 Psyllas ‘Psillas’ 41, 41n34, 41n42, 42 Ranier, P., of HMS Britannia 64 Raphael 63 Raybaud, Louis Maxime 40, 40n33 Reinagle, Ramsay Richard 22, 25 Fig. 26 Rennie, Sir John 26, 26n46 Richardson, Dr Robert 3 Roberts, Sir S., of HMS Endymion 65 Robertson, the Revd 41, 41n35, 43n50 Robinson 43, 44 Robinson, B. W., of HMS Actaeon 64 Rosellini, Ippolito 3, 17, 20, 20n36, 76 Ross, Ludwig ‘Louis’ 40, 40n23, 41, 42, 43, 355 Rowley, Admiral Sir J. 64 Rüppell, Eduard 22 Saint-Elme, Ida 19, 65n129 Salt, Henry 15, 20, 48n81, 57 Sams, Joseph 21n38 Scarlett, James 9, 46n73 ‘Scassi’, Mr. 14 Schaubert, Eduard (various spellings by Pratt) 40, 40n25, 41, 41n41, 43 Scott, Mr 47, 47n74 Scott, Charles Rochfort 1, 2, 2n4, 3, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 46, 47, 48, 60, 61, 66 Sloane, Mr 14 Smith 37 Smith, the Revd Eli 13, 14, 15, 18n31, 46

Smith, Sarah 13, 15, 46 Soane, Sir John 4, 6 Fig. 7 Sophia, Princess 10 Spencer 38 Stephens, John L. 17 St. John 56, 58 Suter, Mr 40 Talma, François-Joseph 9 Temminck, Coenraad Jacob 9 Thompson, William, See Osman Thurburn, Alexander 14 Thurburn, Robert 11, 11n19, 13, 14, 15, 16, 46, 46n69, 47, 61, 62, 65 Thurburn, Rosina 14, 16, 46, 65 Tucker 38 Tyndal 45 Vanthelos 42 ‘Vassos’ [Vasos Mavrovouniotis?] 42, 42n45 ‘de Vecchy’ [de Vecchi?] 45 Victoria, Queen 26 Vitali, Mme 40, 43 Vlacacci 41, 42 Waldgen, Mr 14 Waller, Mr 64 Walpole, Lady Georgiana 19, 65, 65n126 Waterford, Lord Henry Beresford 17, 18, 55, 55n103 Watson, Mr 39 West, B. R., of HMS Scout 61 Weston 65 White, C. W., of HMS Actaeon 64 Whittle, Mr 63 Wilkinson, the Hon. Frederic Georges, British consul at Rhodes 48n83, 62, 62n119, 63 Wilkinson, Sir John Gardner 3, 88, 244 Wilson, R., of HMS Scout 64 Wise, W. F., of HMS Thunderer 64 Wodehouse, William 37 Wolfensberger, Johan (various spellings by Pratt) 40, 40n31, 41 Wolff , ‘Wolf’, Joseph, 19, 65, 65n126 Woodford, Sir Alexander George 45, 45n62 Woodley, William, of Eccles 23, 25 Woodley, William, MP 25 Wordsworth, 41, 41n36, 42n47 Zandri, Dr

46