15 Common Jeans & Pants Fitting Adjustments

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15 CO M M O N FI T T ING A DJUST ME NTS fo r j e an s & pan t s

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

Shorten Crotch

page 3

Lengthen Crotch

page 4

Round Pubis

page 5

Flat Pubis

page 6

Full Tummy

page 7

Full Seat

page 8

Flat Seat

page 9

Low Seat

page 10

Gaping Back

page 11

Full Thigh

page 12

Thin Thigh

page 13

Full Calf

page 14

Knock Kneed

page 15

Bowlegged

page 16

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

2

Front adjustments

SHORTEN CROTCH

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

Drag lines radiating downwards from front crotch, resembling a frown.

Shave width off the inseam (or front thigh) to shorten front crotch curve. Work in 1/4” increments since small adjustments make a big difference. Smoothly join your new inseam line into mid thigh with a french curve or ruler. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

3

Front adjustments

LENGTHEN CROTCH

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

Drag lines radiating upwards from front crotch, resembling a smile.

Add width off to inseam (or front thigh) to lengthen front crotch curve. Work in 1/4” increments since small adjustments make a big difference. Smoothly join your new inseam line into mid thigh with a french curve or ruler. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

4

Front adjustments

ROUND PUBIS ( AKA CAMEL TOE)

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

Vertical drag lines around the front crotch seam. Seam digs into pubic area.

Scoop out front crotch curve a little. This deepens the curve and creates room for the pubis. A 1/4” or 1/8” adjustment can make a big difference.

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

5

Front adjustments

F L AT P U B I S

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

Horizontal wrinkles at the front crotch may indicate that your pubic bone is a little flatter than what is drafted for. Many horizontal lines can also indicate that pants are too tight at the hip, so if it feels too snug try letting out the hip first before attempting this adjustment.

Draw in a shallower front crotch curve; this flattens the curve. A 1/4” or 1/8” adjustment can make a big difference.

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

6

Front adjustments

FULL TUMMY

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

A full tummy may create diagonal drag lines radiating from your stomach. The side seams may also come forward around the stomach, along with a little tightness in the crotch.

To correct, slash along the center front to the hip and rotate along a “hinge” to add length and width through the abdomen area. You may also find you need to add a little length to the crotch curve by letting out the inseam. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

7

Back adjustments

F U L L S E AT

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If you have a fuller bottom, you may notice drag lines all pointing to the back crotch seam. The back waistline may also be tugged down (very common with round apple bottoms - the yoke will sit lower on the back than intended).

You need to add length to the back seat curve to make room. The proper method is to cut through the center back seam to the hip and rotate along a “hinge” to add length and width through the seat. You can also cheat by adding a little to the inseam and top seam as indicated above. You may also find that you need a deeper seat curve – if you scoop out that curve more, please note you will have to add a little to the hip since you are removing width across the hip with this adjustment. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

8

Back adjustments

F L AT S E AT

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

A flatter seat than the pattern is drafted for is indicated by bagginess under the bum and diagonal drag lines pointing to the hip.

You need to remove length from the back seat curve. The proper method is to cut through the center back seam to the hip and rotate along a “hinge” to remove length and width through the seat. You can also cheat by subtracting a little from the inseam and top seam as indicated above. You may also find that you need a deeper seat curve – if you scoop out that curve more, please note you will have to add a little to the hip since you are removing width across the hip with this adjustment. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

9

Back adjustments

L O W S E AT

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If the curve of your bum sits a little lower than the pant has been drafted for, you’ll find horizontal drag lines under your seat and excess fabric at the crease of your bum and legs.

To remove drag lines, scoop out the seat curve so it makes more of an “L” shape. This will make room for the lower curve of your seat.

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

10

Back adjustments

GAPING BACK

Waistband adjustment

Yoke adjustment

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

Waistband (and possibly the yoke) gape against lower back. Pinch out excess with a pinned dart so you know how much you need to remove.

You must remove length from the top waistband edge so it sits closer to the body. Note the width of the dart you made and cut and hinge your waistband between side seam and center back to remove width to top seam only. Your waistband will now have a more pronounced curve. Follow the same step to remove width from the top edge of the yoke as well. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

11

Back adjustments

FULL THIGH

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If you need more room in the thigh, your pants will tell you with diagonal drag lines or wrinkles pointing towards your crotch inseam.

Extend your back crotch at the inner thigh to give yourself more room.

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

12

Front and back adjustments

THIN THIGH

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If your thighs need less room, you should see vertical drag lines along the back of your thigh.

Taking width off the back inseam will help; you may also need to remove a little from the front inseam as well.

Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

13

Leg adjustments

FULL CALF

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If you’re spotting horizontal drag lines above the back of your knees, or your pants fit very snugly in the calf, you will need to make room.

Cut your pattern as indicated above, and hinge seams along the lower leg to create more width along the back of the calf. This will widen the ankle opening. If you prefer a skinnier fit, you may want to try taking in the side seams below your calf to taper the ankle opening. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

14

Leg adjustments

KNOCK KNEED

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

If you’re a little knock kneed you may find that the fabric is tight along your inseam and looser at your side seam. You’ll notice diagonal drag lines radiating from along the side seam above and below the knee.

You need a little more length at the inseam and a little less at the side seam. To achieve this, slash to a center point in the center of the thigh on either side and rotate the entire upper pant so that you are reducing the length along the side seam while slightly adding to the inseam. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

15

Leg adjustments

BOW LEGGED

SYM PTO M :

SOLUTION:

You’ll notice drag lines radiating out from the side seam around your knee and calf.

The exact opposite adjustment we made for the knock kneed; you need more length on the side seam and less on the inseam. To achieve this, slash to a center point in the center of the thigh on either side and rotate the entire upper pant so that you are adding to the length of the side seam while reducing the length of the inseam. Pants Fitting Guide

| C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S

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